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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77598 ***
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                           PICTURESQUE VIEWS
+
+                                 ON THE
+
+                               RIVER WYE.
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  _Course of the RIVER WYE from its Source to its junction with the
+    SEVERN below Chepstow._
+]
+
+
+
+
+                           Picturesque Views
+                                 ON THE
+                               RIVER WYE,
+                                  FROM
+             Its Source at Plinlimmon Hill, to its Junction
+                                WITH THE
+                        _SEVERN below CHEPSTOW_:
+                                  WITH
+                              OBSERVATIONS
+                                   ON
+     THE PUBLIC BUILDINGS, AND OTHER WORKS OF ART, IN ITS VICINITY:
+
+
+                           BY SAMUEL IRELAND,
+
+                                AUTHOR OF
+
+   “A Picturesque Tour through Holland, Brabant, and part of France;”
+
+                                  AND,
+
+ Of “Picturesque Views on the Rivers Thames, Medway, Warwickshire Avon,”
+                                   &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+                               =London:=
+               PUBLISHED BY R. FAULDER, NEW BOND STREET;
+                       AND T. EGERTON, WHITEHALL.
+
+                                 1797.
+
+
+
+
+                                PREFACE.
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Amongst the numerous rivers with which our Island is so richly
+ornamented and fertilized, the Wye, our present subject of
+investigation, though in no very widely extended course, and itself only
+a tributary stream, is yet in the production of the sublime, of the
+grand and majestic proudly eminent above its fellows. In a course of
+about eighty miles, the utmost distance it measures from its source, to
+its junction with the Severn, so various and such an interesting
+picturesque scenery is perhaps no where to be found, either in this or
+any other country.
+
+Nature and Art have most happily combined in opening their richest
+stores to diversify and spread fertility, grandeur and beauty over the
+country through which it flows: for its environ is not less highly
+distinguished and dressed by the hand of art with castles, abbies, and
+villas beautifully seated on its banks, than it is itself favoured by
+nature, in the striking interchange of shoal and flood, wood and rock,
+meadow and precipice. With so much, and in so many various ways to
+allure and interest, it was not possible that all its charms could have
+escaped either the penetrating eye of Taste and Genius, or the pencil of
+the inquisitive, refined, and systematical Amateur, and accordingly many
+of its most striking features have employed the pens and the pencils of
+our Writers and Artists; but they have, all of them, been either
+detached views and single objects, or, if more has been comprehended in
+the design of the amateur or artist, the execution has been partial,
+imperfect, or foreign to the subject. The whole has never been fully
+exhibited to the eye of the lover of the scenes of nature faithfully
+delineated. One ingenious author indeed has given observations upon the
+river, and such as have unquestionably merited the high commendations
+they have received from the admirers of the picturesque and beautiful:
+and he has accompanied his observations with drawings. He does not
+however profess to give exact representations, or portraits of the
+various objects that present themselves, but aims rather at exhibiting
+their general effect on the eye, when considered technically, and as
+picturesque forms by the learned and professed artist.
+
+Without interfering therefore with the plan of that much admired writer,
+or arrogating to himself superior science or knowledge of his subject,
+the author of this work has, in conformity with his original intention,
+selected this river from amongst those not yet described, in order to
+complete his history of the principal rivers of this country: and,
+unable as he feels himself to render justice to the dignity of his
+subject, he builds his claim to public favor, on the fidelity with which
+he flatters himself he has delineated the scenery. He would wish, and it
+is his aim, that his drawings should, like the transparent mirror of his
+stream, truly reflect the landscape that exists around, as well as the
+objects that decorate its banks. And, content with the simple charms and
+varieties of nature, he cannot prevail upon himself to contemplate in
+every winding of the stream the forms of his own idea, the image of his
+own mind and its complicated sameness, reflected again, and again; but
+gives to his reader that, which, if he visits the spot, he trusts he
+will find, and, if the spot is known to him already, he assures himself
+he will recognize.
+
+The tremendous floods, which, in the beginning of the year 1795,
+subsequent to that, in which these drawings were made, having so
+completely swept away several ancient, as well as elegant structures
+thrown across this stream, may perhaps give some additional value to the
+sketches of them here introduced. If not elsewhere preserved, scarce a
+vestige of them remains to be resorted to by the artist or by the
+architect, whose profession must peculiarly enable him to do more
+justice to the nature of the fabric.
+
+The History, and Picturesque Views of the River Severn are in great
+forwardness, and will, it is presumed, be ready for publication, in Two
+Volumes, Royal Octavo, in the course of next year.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  _S. Ireland del.^t_
+
+  _Source of the Wye, Plinlimmon Hill._
+
+  _Pub.^d for S. Ireland, March 1, 1797._
+]
+
+
+
+
+                           Picturesque Views
+
+                                 ON THE
+
+                               RIVER WYE.
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+     “Plinlimmon’s high praise no longer Muse defer;
+     “What once the Druids told, how great those floods should bee,
+     “That here (most mightie hill) derive themselves from thee.
+     “The Bards with furie rapt, the British youth among,
+     “Unto the charming harpe, thy future honor song
+     “In brave and loftie straines:——”
+                                                     DRAYTON.
+
+
+
+
+                               SECTION I.
+
+
+From a small spring near the summit of Plinlimmon Hill, the boundary of
+the northern part of Cardiganshire, our river Wye derives its source.
+Issuing from a spacious hollow in this mountain, the water falls in a
+narrow streamlet several hundred yards nearly perpendicular, till
+meeting with various small currents, it soon presents itself in the
+shape of an immense cataract, rolling with astonishing rapidity over the
+rocky prominencies which seem to impede its course. The name of this
+river appears anciently to have been a common appellation, either for
+river or water. Camden says, that the word gwy or wy signifies water,
+and instances the following names which have that termination, as proofs
+of his opinion; viz. Lhugwy, Dowrdwy, Edwy, Conwy, Elwy, Towy, Tawy, &c.
+&c. From the same ridge of mountains, within two miles of the source of
+the Wye, the rivers Severn and Rydall derive their origin: the latter of
+which empties itself into the Irish sea at Aberystwith. The views from
+this huge and dreary hill are wild and extensive beyond description;
+they exhibit mountains, rolling as it were, over each other, and under
+the most sublime forms and beautiful hues, varying and shifting till
+they insensibly lose themselves and melt into the horizon. We were
+peculiarly fortunate in having a bright and clear day to view in all its
+grandeur this sublime and picturesque scenery; an advantage which an
+experienced guide informed us had scarce ever occurred during a course
+of many years in those airy regions, where it was almost invariably his
+fate to encounter a heavy and hazy atmosphere, commonly attended with
+rain. On this lofty mountain the famous Owen Glyndwr, in the summer of
+1401, posted himself, says the historian, “with great policy at the head
+of a hundred and twenty men of arms.” The situation of Plinlimmon Hill
+being on the limits of Cardiganshire and Montgomeryshire, was admirably
+adapted for receiving the succours of his vassals and friends from every
+part of the principality. From this fastness his adherents, who were the
+terror of all that opposed him, were perpetually making excursions, and
+plundering the neighbouring counties; amongst which Montgomeryshire
+appears to have been the greatest sufferer.
+
+The birth of this renowned hero, of Wales, which happened on the 28th of
+May, 1354, appears by Hollingshed and others, to have been marked with
+strange presages of celebrity: he says, that his cruelty was foretold at
+his nativity, by the wonderful circumstance of “his father’s horses
+being found standing that night in the stable up to their bellies in
+blood;” and Shakspeare, in the following lines, put into the mouth of
+Glyndwr, thus describes the vain glorious chieftain,
+
+           ————————————“At my birth
+           “The front of Heav’n was full of fiery shapes;
+           “The goats ran from the mountains, and the herds
+           “Were strangely clamorous in the frighted fields:
+           “These signs have marked me extraordinary,
+           “And all the courses of my life do shew,
+           “I am not in the roll of common men.”
+
+A still more extraordinary circumstance is attached to the history of
+this Welch phenomenon. Jolo Goch, a celebrated bard, has not hesitated
+to consider the great event of his birth, as equal in importance to
+mankind with that of Jesus Christ.
+
+The river Wye, in this its earliest stage, is peculiarly marked with
+features of the grand and sublime: its amazing rapidity is perpetually
+interrupted by immense large stones and rocky substances, and the rush
+of its waters produces a solemn noise, that seems as if they were
+
+            “Chiding the stones that stopp’d their course.”
+
+The spots of verdure and broken ground in the vicinity of this rude
+scene, the dark shades of rock, and beetling brows of the hills with
+which it is bounded on either side, form a spectacle as majestic and
+awful as the untaught imagination can paint, or that can present itself
+to the eye throughout the range of this island.
+
+It is simple nature in her purest and grandest form, and without a trace
+of her handmaid art, without either castle, church, or ruin: objects
+that more than form the beautiful in picture, that are essentially
+necessary, and can alone give dignity to the feeble works of man;
+without these the scenery is here complete.
+
+For several miles the country wears nearly the same aspect; one
+continued undulating line of hills forms the distance; and the river,
+though of no considerable width, continues gently to roll over its rocky
+and gravelly bed, “making sweet music with the enamelled stones;”
+
+                  “Giving a gentle kiss to every sedge
+                  “He overtaketh in his pilgrimage.”
+
+At a distance of about six miles from its source, in a village called
+Cumergar, the Wye receives a considerable body of water from the river
+Castal. This River is full in view, and forms a beautiful object from
+the road, on the way to what is called the Devil’s Bridge. At Cumergar
+is a wooden bridge called Pont-rhyd Gallad: it is the first that is
+thrown across this river, and the scenery around it is extensive and
+beautiful. The Wye here loses much of its impetuosity and consequently
+of its grandeur: its rocky bed is softened and in many places spread
+with a mere gravelly substance, and at this summer season is
+considerably narrowed, and frequently left perfectly dry. From the
+continual accession, however, of springs and rills, that issue from the
+neighbouring mountains, it is not known to remain long in that state.
+From hence, on an easy ascent, a tolerable road leading to Llanidlos
+runs parallel with the stream, and affords a beautiful ride till we
+approach the wretched village of Llangerig: amongst whose clay cottages
+without chimneys, churlish boors, and sour milk and black bread, the
+only refreshment it supplied, our weary spirits were filled with rapture
+at the beauties of that situation, to which extreme penury, savage
+nature, or insensibility could alone be indifferent: They were so
+impressive, that within a mile of this village we determined to stop,
+flattering ourselves with the hope that by the aid of the pencil, we
+might be enabled to give the characteristic features of a country, which
+we utterly despair by any powers of language that we could command in
+any adequate manner to communicate.
+
+About three miles below Llangerig, in a southern direction, the river
+Darnel, which derives its source from the hills that bear its name,
+empties itself into the Wye. Pursuing the course of the river, the
+Nanerth rocks in an extent of near three miles, form a beautiful screen
+to its northern bank.
+
+On this spot the Wye, in an easy bend, gently rolls over its rugged bed,
+while the ascending road, girting the immense hills that are enriched
+with spreading oaks and luxuriant underwood, peculiarly invited the
+pencil: Through these, the rocks in various fantastic forms, perpetually
+break upon the eye, and the cottages interspersed among the distant
+hills, relieve the wide-spread and extended scenery. On the brow of a
+rising hill, in the fore ground, a group of cattle which covered it,
+seemed at the instant, as if placed there by design to complete the
+view. Beneath, the gentle river Marteg, the receptacle of many smaller
+streams that arise in the vicinity of Llanidlos, rippling over its
+pebbly bed, loses its name and its current in the broader channel of the
+Wye.
+
+
+
+
+                              SECTION II.
+
+
+From Nanerth rocks, after a pleasant ride of about three miles on the
+bank of the Wye, we reached Rhaidr Gwy; the word Rhaidr signifies a
+cataract, or fall of water, and is frequently applied to those falls,
+among the mountains of Snowden in Carnarvonshire.
+
+Camden seems to think that from the word Rhaidr, the county of Radnor,
+through the west angle of which, this river directs its course derived
+its name. The bridge at Rhaidr consists of one wide arch, which from its
+base forms a very large segment of a circle. It is a plain structure and
+has little but its romantic accompaniments to recommend it; the immense
+pile of rocks on which it is elevated, carries the arch so high as to
+afford from beneath it, an extensive prospect of the adjoining country,
+in which a small Welsh building called Cwmtather Church appears in a
+whimsical point of view. The annexed sketch was taken from below the
+bridge, where the combination of objects is wonderfully grand; and in
+this dry season, displays in full force the ponderous rocky substances
+of which it is composed. But in consequence of this drought, we had the
+misfortune to lose the display and thunder of its cataract, which a less
+friendly state of the elements would have exhibited in all its grandeur.
+The stones over which the waters in this vicinity roll, are of an
+immense size, and in their forms, partake both of the majestic, and the
+grotesque; their diversified hues, and vast angular prominencies afford
+in certain lights and in some seasons of the day, under the rays of a
+bright sun the most brilliant and picturesque effect. Over the bridge
+passes the high road that leads to Aberystwith, and a more rugged and
+dreary path, is perhaps scarce to be trod in any of the frequented parts
+of this principality. Rhaidr, though now but a miserable place, derived
+formerly some consequence from its castle, which was advantageously
+situated in a nook of the river not far from the bridge, but of which no
+trace at present remains. Near the spot whereon the castle stood is a
+deep trench cut out of a solid rock, and not far distant, are several
+large Tumuli, or Barrows, called in Welsh, Kern, and Keido. These are
+conjectured to have been raised as memorials of the dead. Camden
+confirms this idea, and observes, not very consistently indeed with the
+respect due to the memory of the departed, “that it is still the custom
+to cast heaps of stones on the graves of malefactors and self
+murderers.”
+
+At what period the castle at Rhaidr was built is not ascertained, but it
+was repaired by Rhys Prince of South Wales in the reign of Richard the
+first, and near it says Camden, “is a vast wilderness rendered very
+dismal by many crooked ways and high mountains, into which as a proper
+place of refuge, that bane of his native country, King Vortigern, whose
+very memory the Britons curse, withdrew himself, when he had at last
+repented of his abominable wickedness, in calling in the English Saxons,
+and incestuously marrying his own daughter.”
+
+His address to the Barons, on the subject of calling in the aid of the
+Saxons, is thus recorded by an anonymous author.
+
+          “My Lords, vain compliment would suit but ill
+          “The present time, I therefore briefly thank you,
+          “But e’er we part, fain would I crave your hearing.
+          “Our Troops have now been long disus’d to War—
+          “Yet do not think I mean their fame to tarnish,
+          “Or on a Briton throw the damned slur
+          “Of shameful cowardice. No, my good Lords,—
+          “But though their ribs do serve as castle walls,
+          “And fast imprison their strong Lion hearts,
+          “Yet e’en the Lion, when full gorg’d with food
+          “Will bask and tamely lay him down to sleep—
+          “Then in such sort, hath undisturbed peace,
+          “And want of custom, (nature’s substitute,
+          “That changes e’en our very properties)
+          “Soften’d their manhood. Then t’were policy
+          “That we should court the Saxons to our aid!
+          “This too will in our Britons raise the flame
+          “Of bright and generous emulation.
+          “Say Lords! doth this my proposition please you?
+
+Below Rhaidr we soon lost sight of that immense rocky scenery, so
+eminently characterizing its neighborhood, and every reach of the river
+yielded additional richness and verdure. A detail of each minute change
+of prospect that occurs in a tour of this nature, however gratifying at
+the moment to the eye of the curious and picturesque traveller, would be
+tedious and uninteresting; it is therefore the business of description
+to record only the most material objects as they occur, and leave
+imagination to paint the rest. About three miles below Rhaidr, the Wye
+receives a considerable supply of water from the rivers Eland and
+Clanven, which unite at a distance of about four miles from their
+conflux with our river. Below this a copious stream called the Ither,
+which in its course receives the Dulas and Comar, makes a considerable
+addition to the waters of the Wye. From the brow of a hill about two
+miles before we reach the town of Builth, the scenery is peculiarly
+beautiful, the river spreads itself into a bay, and the immense rocky
+substances with which its bed has hitherto been spread, rise here in
+various detached forms many yards above its surface, exhibiting so many
+small islands, and agreeable breaks in the fore ground of the landscape.
+
+The annexed view was sketched from this spot, in which it is much to be
+regretted that the bridge of Builth could not be introduced, as it would
+considerably have added to the beauty of the scenery. Builth is a town
+of little consequence, yet from its antiquity, and the salubrity of its
+air, it becomes highly deserving our attention. We happened to be there
+on a market day, when the town was so thronged with people, that we
+could scarcely pass through it. It resembled rather a fair than a
+market, and the immense croud collected together, presented to the eye a
+scene in effect, similar to that of one continued mass of long blue
+cloaks, apparently in perpetual motion. Not a house, nor a stable but
+was occupied, and it was really a matter of astonishment, that in so
+small a town, and on so common an occasion as that of a weekly market,
+such a vast concourse of people should have been assembled; but a market
+or fair, is the pride and glory of the Welsh; and, happy souls! why
+should they not in a sultry summer’s day, enjoy the suffocating luxury
+of a long blue cloak, as well as the Londoner his summer theatre, amidst
+“the raging dog star’s heat.”
+
+In an extensive tour through Wales, I witnessed a scene at Aberystwith
+very similar to that I have just described, and as the surrounding
+objects were there more peculiarly marked with the picturesque than
+those at Builth, a representation of the scene, although at a
+considerable distance from hence, may perhaps not prove unacceptable to
+the reader. In this view appears part of the castellated dwelling of
+Uvedale Price, Esq.; a man not less distinguished for the elegance with
+which he cultivates the fine arts, than for his powers of
+discrimination, and the accuracy with which he defines them. The house
+is recently erected on the shore, and commands an extensive prospect of
+the sea, the only one in fact it does command.
+
+At this market or fair, the usual artifices to amuse and delude, were
+exhibited with the usual success; other centuries revolve, and other
+generations arise, but rustic manners remain unchanged, the same
+pursuits occupy the mind, and the same toys interest and beguile. There
+were, “Ribbands of all the colors ith’ rainbow. Dancing and music,
+ballads all pitiful and true, one of a fish that appeared upon the
+coast, on Wednesday the of April, forty thousand fadom above water.”
+Autolicus with all his rhetoric could not more artfully have displayed
+his wares, nor could the following lines have had a better effect on his
+auditors than the tricks presented here.
+
+            “Lawn as white as driven snow,
+            “Cyprus, black as e’er was crow;
+            “Gloves as sweet as damask roses,
+            “Masks for faces, and for noses;
+            “Bugle bracelets, necklace amber,
+            “Perfume for a lady’s chamber;
+            “Golden quoifs, and stomachers,
+            “For my lads to give their dears;
+            “Pins and poking-sticks of steel,
+            “What maids lack from head to heel:
+            “Come, buy of me, come: come, buy, come, buy,
+            “Buy, lads, or else your lasses cry: come buy.”
+
+Builth is happily encompassed with a range of hills that afford shelter
+to the place, and screen the neighbouring woods with which it is
+enriched. On the skirt of the town stand the remains of an ancient
+castle; they comprise near four acres of ground, and though not
+sufficiently massed to form an object for the pencil, yet the remaining
+fragments convey a general idea of its former dignity.
+
+The eminence which is contiguous to the remains of the fortress, denotes
+what the Romans called the Presidium. This castle is reported to have
+been erected by the Breoses and Mortimers, after the demolition of a
+former one by Rhys ap Gryffydh. Ptolomy calls the town of Builth,
+Bullæum Silurum, from whence it derived its name, but Doctor Horsely is
+inclined to think that the ancient Bullæum of Antoninus, was at Uske in
+Monmouthshire, from the ruins of a Roman fort, or city, being found
+there. The neighbourhood of that place is still called Bualht.
+
+Traversing the vicinity of the castle, our Welsh guide pointed out to us
+a field at about two miles distance, called Cavan, in which Prince
+Llewellyn is reported to have been buried, and so fertile he observed
+was the soil, that each stem bore two heads of corn. From the same
+authority, we are told that as that Prince was one day crossing the
+field in disguise, he asked of an old woman the name of a small brook
+that ran across it, who replied, it was called Nantytrrad, then said he,
+let it in future be named Cwm Llewellyn, for that shall be the burial
+place of that Prince. Where is there a Welchmen who does not deplore the
+loss of his brave Llewellyn? but our guide drew much consolation from
+there being yet a good Prince of Wales, who in the hour of need, would
+certainly defend and fight for his countrymen. Llewellyn is reported to
+have been murthered in a small castle that stood at a place called
+Llechryd, about one mile from Builth, while he was meditating his escape
+into Glamorganshire. A modern house, with a moat surrounding it that
+includes about three acres, marks the spot whereon the castle stood.
+Builth Castle is well situated for defence, it stands on an eminence,
+and the point of land, is in part surrounded by the beautiful river
+Irvon, which in a semicircular direction winds its course into the Wye,
+about half a mile above the town. This river is of considerable width,
+and derives its source from the hills in the vicinity of Strata Florida
+in the county of Cardigan; thence after taking a south west direction it
+winds towards the north east, and falls into the Wye near Builth. Within
+a small distance of its junction with our river, it receives a brook
+called the Wevery, which rises on the Brecknockshire hills about eight
+miles distant, and produces remarkable high flavoured salmon and trout.
+
+Near to the Wye a new stone bridge is building over the Irvon,
+contiguous to the old one which was of wood. This new structure consists
+of six elliptical arches; it is erecting at the joint expence of the
+counties of Brecon and Radnor. The elevated span of the upper circle of
+this bridge, however necessary here from the great floods that happen in
+the winter season, is yet a taste too prevalent in the general
+construction of our bridges. The bed of the upper surface is usually so
+high as to become a large segment of a circle; this custom militates not
+only against every principle of utility to the horse and traveller, but
+shuts out the general prospect, which even by an artist whose ideas are
+not too narrowly confined to his own science, should in a country like
+this be made an object of some consideration.
+
+In Italy and France, a contrary system has very judiciously been
+adopted, by which means, in every point of view the eye finds relief
+from the diversified scenery around. This practice is supported by the
+classical productions of the elegant Claude Lorraine, who, whether he
+designs from nature, or has recourse to his own refined ideas of his
+art, always adheres to this principle. Near Builth are the remains of
+Llandrindod-wells, once in high esteem, and celebrated for their
+excellent medicinal quality. This spring of water issues out of the side
+of a rock, which is of the slate kind, it is strongly impregnated with
+nitrous salt, sulphur, and steel; and produces an effect similar to the
+waters of Scarborough and Cheltenham, but it is of a more powerfully
+quality. The wells are now greatly in decay, and consequently are not so
+much frequented as formerly. On a high hill named Caven Durris, about a
+mile from Builth, David Thomas, Esq.; has erected a handsome stone
+residence, which when viewed from the town, appears too much exposed,
+but on a near approach, is found to be happily screened from the
+northern winds by the surrounding hills: It commands a very noble and
+extensive view, as well on its own level towards the South, as from that
+part which looks down towards the town of Builth, and at the same time
+includes a beautiful command of the meandering course of the rivers Wye
+and Irvon, and of the extensive bridge of Builth in the vale beneath.
+This bridge is a simple and well constructed modern edifice, consisting
+of six arches, within a mile of which a small river called the Dihono
+having a small bridge of one arch thrown over it, empties itself into
+the Wye. From the ferry a little below, a beautiful reach of the river
+terminates in a view of the small remains of Aberadway castle, of which
+no history is to be traced. Its ruin is very insignificant, little more
+than a stone wall, now over grown with ivy remains. At the extremity of
+it are the fragments of two round towers. These rude specimens of art,
+are finely contrasted by the adjoining and truly wonderful productions
+of nature. These are an immense range of rocks running parallel with the
+river, exhibiting a variety of the most strange and fantastic forms
+imaginable. In different points of view, they convey to the mind, the
+idea of so many towers and castles shouting from amidst the oak coppices
+and other shrubs that enrich this majestic scenery. These vast
+prominencies in their various shapes, received at the instant of viewing
+them, additional grandeur and effect from the solemn shade, produced by
+a declining sun, and presented a scene truly worthy the pencil of a
+Salvator, or amongst our countrymen, his rival, the late John Mortimer.
+Near this charming spot, the river Edwa, from which these rocks derive
+their name, empties itself into our river. For a considerable distance
+in passing down the Wye, we have on a smaller scale perpetual breaks of
+the same rocky kind of scenery till we reach Llangoed, the seat of Mr.
+Edwards; from hence we ride through a charming wood of young oaks,
+ranged for a considerable distance on an elevated bank of the Wye, they
+give at each break and opening, an enchanting view of our beautiful and
+picturesque river, which on the approach to a village called Swains,
+about a mile distant, wears the appearance of an extensive bay, while
+the mountains in the back ground gradually recede, and the general face
+of the landscape assumes a new character. In the annexed view of
+Glasebury, the scene when contrasted with that at Aberedway or at
+Builth, will best illustrate this idea, here all around wears an air of
+placidity; the river’s rocky bed no more agitates the water in its
+course, it flows a tranquil and a gentle stream, reflected on whose
+glassy surface under the evening’s lengthening shade
+
+            “Down bend its banks, the trees depending grow;
+            “And skies beneath with answ’ring colors glow.
+
+In the midst of this rich and beautiful valley, an elegant stone bridge
+of seven arches is thrown across the river. It was built about fourteen
+years ago by the family of Edwards, under the direction of their father,
+the celebrated architect of Pont-y-pridd. The adjoining view was made in
+August, 1794; in the ensuing winter the bridge was totally destroyed,
+which will in some degree give value to this sketch, as a memorial of
+that which is at present, little more than a wreck; every arch of it
+having been blown up by the torrent of ice, which poured down on the
+very sudden thaw, after the long frost in the beginning of 1795.
+
+
+
+
+                              SECTION III.
+
+
+On our approach to the town of Hay, we pass its small church, situated
+on a high and clayey bank of the river, from whence the town and
+adjoining objects, afford little worthy the attention of the artist. To
+preface this section, I have therefore selected a general view of the
+town and surrounding country, from a spot about a mile below the bridge,
+which presents a scene highly enriched by an assemblage of woods,
+meadows, and corn fields, at once extensive, and in a peculiar degree
+interesting.
+
+The town is happily situated on the declivity of a hill, on which the
+houses rising gradually, convey the idea of a place of infinitely more
+consequence than really it possesses, and in no small degree gives the
+general outline of an Italian landscape. The face of this scenery and
+bridge is fully illustrative of the position laid down in the last
+section, of the superior beauty of flat bridges over those that are
+elevated. This bridge is formed of seven arches and in the year 1795,
+met with a similar fate to the preceding one, and which were thrown
+across the torrents that pour themselves along the vallies of this
+mountainous country.
+
+The purple hue of the distance called the black mountains, affords a
+good background to this scenery, which is heightened by the rich glow of
+a noon-tide sun, darting at the instant, and giving force and relief to
+every object. These mountains extend fourteen or fifteen miles towards a
+place called Monmouth Cap, about eight miles from Abergavenny. The head
+of water in the fore ground of the view, is formed from a small river
+called Boonewayne Brook, which supplies the neighbouring mill with
+water; the goat who stood browsing on a high bank of the river before
+us, was an object we were not accustomed to meet with even in Wales, as
+I do not remember to have seen more than three, in the course of a long
+tour through this country.
+
+The town of Hay was formerly called Hain, it derives its name from the
+British word Tregelhi, which, says Camden “may be rendered Hasely, or
+Hasleton; it appears to have been well known to the Romans, some remains
+of their walls being still visible, and many of their coins having been
+found here.” He likewise says “the ancient town was consumed by fire by
+the profligate rebel, Owen Glyndwr or Glendower, in his marches through
+this country.” Our divine bard has put the following lines into the
+mouth of Glendower, when speaking of his antagonist.
+
+           “Three times hath _Henry Bolingbroke_ made head
+           “Against my pow’r, thrice from the banks of _Wye_,
+           “And sandy-bottom’d _Severn_, have I sent
+           “Him bootless home, and weather-beaten back.”
+
+This place anciently belonged to William de Brus, Lord of Brecknock, and
+was nearly destroyed by Lewis, Dauphin of France, in 1216, who had been
+invited into England by the Barons disaffected to King John.
+
+The town of Hay is situated on the extreme angle of Brecknockshire, and
+on the borders of Herefordshire. Near the church, on the highest land on
+the brink of the river, there anciently stood a castle built by the
+Normans, of which little more now remains than a mound of earth, and the
+entrenchments that surround it. The present castle stands nearly in the
+centre of the town. Its Gothic entrance, and the Ivy over-growing the
+remains of the ancient tower, produce a striking effect on the approach
+to this venerable ruin.
+
+A large house adjoining, is the property of Richard Wellington, Esq.; It
+is erected on the site of the old castle, and appears to have been the
+work of the age of James I. Within a few years, it has been modernized,
+by which it has in some degree been stripped of that small share of the
+picturesque, that in some instances is to be found even in that
+barbarous age of architecture. As the castle is not generally noticed by
+the traveller, nor has any print that I can learn, ever yet been given
+of it, the annexed view may not prove unacceptable to the curious
+enquirer. On quitting Hay, the Wye receives a considerable body of water
+from the river Dulas, across which is a stone bridge of one arch. Thus
+assisted, our river becomes a copious stream, and has been long rendered
+navigable in the winter seasons. For this purpose two statutes were
+passed in parliament, the one in the fourteenth of Charles II. the other
+in the seventh of William III.
+
+About two miles below the town, the ruin of the once famous Clifford
+castle presents itself; it stands on a considerable eminence on the bank
+of the Wye, is well situated for defence, and forms a boundary to the
+western part of the county of Hereford. Its walls are not sufficiently
+high, nor are the parts so broken and irregular as to afford a complete
+picturesque object, but it has yet considerable attractions to merit the
+notice of the speculative and inquisitive traveller. Camden says, that
+it is recorded in doom’s-day book, to have been built by William
+Fitzosborn, Earl of Hereford. It came afterwards to Walter, the son of
+Richard de Ponts, a Norman, who came into England with William the
+Conqueror. Walter took his name of De Clifford from this castle, and
+from him descended the illustrious family of the earls of Cumberland. We
+shall not enter into a detail of the warlike exploits performed in this
+place, but confine ourselves to the well known story of fair Rosamond,
+daughter of an earl of Clifford, who was born in this castle. The story,
+whether fabulous or true, has been deemed not unworthy the attention,
+both of the poet and historian. Master Hollinshead in his usual
+quaintness of style, thus speaks of King Henry the second’s
+incontinence, and of his particular attachment to the fair Rosamond,
+“for not contented with the use of his wife, he kept many concubines,
+but namely he delighted most in the companie of a pleasant damosell,
+whome he ’cleped the rose of the world, the common people named hir
+_Rosamond_, for hir passing beautie, propernesse of person, and pleasant
+wit, with other amyable qualities, being verily a rare and peerelesse
+peece in those days. He made for hir an house at Woodstocke in
+Oxfordshire, like to a laberinth, that is to meane, wrought like a knot
+in a garden, called a maze, with such turnings and windings in and out,
+that no creature might finde her nor come to hir, except he were
+instructed by the king, or such as were secrete with him in that matter.
+But the common report of the people is, that the queene finally found
+her out by a silke thread, whiche the king had drawne forth of hir
+chamber with his foote, and dealte with hir in such sharpe and cruell
+wise, that she lived not long after. She was buried in the Nunrie of
+Godstow beside Oxforde, with these verses upon hir tumbe.”
+
+             “Hic jacet in tumulo, Rosamundi non Rosamunda,
+             “Non redolet sed olet, quæ redolere solet.”
+
+We cannot quit this subject, the family of the De Cliffords, without
+adverting to another of its noble descendants, George Clifford, the
+third earl of Cumberland, who in 1525, was advanced to the dignity of an
+earl. The seats of this adventurous and renowned warrior, are
+transmitted to us by various historians, and though to many persons they
+may be well known, yet some mention of him in this place, may not be
+thought irrelevant to our subject. This nobleman was one of the peers
+who sat in judgment on Mary Queen of Scots, and became afterwards a
+great favourite of her cousin Elizabeth. He signalized himself highly at
+sea in various engagements against the Spaniards, and behaved with much
+intrepidity during the memorable encounter with the invincible Armada.
+In consequence of his gallantry the Queen created him an Admiral, and a
+few years after, a Knight of the Garter; he was likewise one of the
+lords sent out with the forces to reduce the Earl of Essex. He died in
+London at the Savoy, at the age of forty seven, in the year 1605.
+
+We cannot pass over a striking instance of gallantry, in this
+extraordinary hero, as recorded by Mr. Pennant, which appears fully to
+keep pace with his bravery as a naval commander. “At an audience, which
+the earl had after one of his expeditions, Queen Elizabeth, perhaps
+designedly, dropped one of her gloves. His lordship took it up, and
+presented it to her; upon which she graciously desired him to keep it as
+a mark of her esteem. He adorned the glove with diamonds, and wore it in
+the front of his high crowned hat on days of tournament.” This
+circumstance is recorded in a very curious and rare print of the earl,
+engraved by Robert White, in which the glove appears. Another instance
+of the queen’s favor to this earl of Cumberland, was, her appointing him
+her champion in her tilting matches, in which exercise he excelled all
+the nobility of his time. His magnificent armour worn in this age of
+chivalry, was adorned with roses and fleur de lis, and is now preserved
+at Appleby Castle in Westmoreland. He married Margaret, third daughter
+of Francis earl of Bedford, by whom he had three children, two sons who
+died young, and a daughter named Anne, who was successively married to
+Richard earl of Dorset, and to Philip earl of Pembroke and Montgomery.
+
+
+This lady appears by the following letter to have inherited with the
+family estates, all the bravery and spirit of her great ancestors. Sir
+Joseph Williamson, when secretary of state to Charles the II. wrote to
+the Countess, wishing to name a candidate to her for the borough of
+Appleby, to which she returned the following spirited answer “I have
+been bullied by an usurper, I have been neglected by a court, but I will
+not be dictated to by a subject. Your man shan’t stand.”
+
+                             “ANNE, DORSET;
+
+                       “Pembroke and Montgomery.”
+
+
+Dr. Campbell, in his Philosophy of Rhetoric, highly commends the
+expression of this letter, he says, “an ordinary spirit would have
+employed as many pages to express the same thing, as there are
+affirmations in this short letter.” Of this extraordinary lady, Dr.
+Donne remarked, “that in her younger years, she knew well how to
+discourse of all things, from predestination, to slea-silk.”
+
+From this digression, which we hope will not prove uninteresting, we
+return again to the main subject of our enquiry.
+
+The winding and mazy course of the Wye in about two miles, brings us to
+Whitney, where, in 1794, the piers and part of the arches of a new stone
+bridge were in great forwardness, but in the succeeding spring, the
+whole was swept away by that hidden thaw and torrent, whose devastations
+we have more than once had occasion to notice. In this unfinished state,
+the busy scenery of the various artificers at work, a ferry boat
+perpetually in motion, and the distant village church, peeping above the
+hills in the back ground, produced altogether a subject well worthy the
+pencil; but from the confined nature of this work, and the abundant
+rich, and luxuriant scenery, we have yet to display, we feel it
+impossible to insert every object in picture, however highly it may
+merit our notice in description. Passing several beautiful villages, we
+reach Willersley, in the vicinity of which, the extensive range of
+Merbidge Hills afforded us, from their summit, a grand and extensive
+view of the surrounding country. Another noble object presents itself in
+this neighbourhood, which bears the name of Brobery’s Scar: its
+principal attractions are the bold and majestic roughnesses of its form,
+that contrast beautifully with the views, more immediately upon the eye,
+on the bank of our river. Hence, amidst a profusion of rich and
+beautiful scenery, at a place called Rhydspence, the river quits
+Radnorshire, and glides its easy course towards Bradwardin. This town
+stands on an easy ascent on the bank of the Wye, and presents itself in
+a happy point of view above the bridge, the northern bank of the river
+rises to a considerable height, and is richly cloathed with shrubbery.
+In the annexed view we have aimed at a representation of this beautiful
+and romantic scene. The river here acquires a considerable width, and
+though in a dry season, has a proportionable depth of water. In this
+vicinity there was formerly a castle, of which very little remains. This
+place gave birth, and name to the famous Thomas Bradwardin, Archbishop
+of Canterbury, who, from his variety of knowledge and proficiency in the
+abstruse branches of learning, obtained his title of Doctor Profundus.
+Below this village we glided down this deep and majestic stream, amidst
+a rich and fertile country, till we reached Mocca’s Court, the seat of
+Sir George Cornwall, Bart. It is pleasantly situated on an eminence, on
+the southern bank of the Wye, within a spacious park, and commands a
+full and extensive view of the beautiful meanderings of the river.
+
+This place was anciently called Moches, and formed a part of the
+possessions of St. Guthlach, in the City of Hereford. The ancient house
+stood below the site of the present, which is a modern structure, and
+was in part built from the ruin of Bradwardin Castle. In descending
+towards Hereford we passed a variety of elegant villas, rich in
+situation, and very happily selected as summer residences; amongst these
+Belmont, the seat of Dr. Matthews, is peculiarly worthy of attention.
+The views from hence, in each direction of the river, are highly
+attractive, and art and nature under the guidance of taste, are happily
+combined to produce a rich and beautiful effect.
+
+
+
+
+                              SECTION IV.
+
+
+This view of the ancient bridge and venerable cathedral of Hereford,
+affords the most picturesque, and striking combination of objects, that
+came within our observation. The bridge is of stone, and consists of
+eight Gothic arches, it is evidently of great antiquity, but at what
+period it was built, history affords little information on which we can
+rely. Leland conjectures that it was erected about the same time with
+the castle, that is, soon after the conquest.
+
+The present beautiful cathedral, says Camden, “was founded by bishop
+Reinelm, in 1079, in the reign of Henry I. and by his successors was
+enlarged, by adding to it a neat college and fine houses for the
+prebendaries.” The Bishop, he likewise says, “has three hundred and two
+churches in his diocese.” The revenues of the bishopric were valued, in
+the 26th of Henry VIII. at eight hundred and thirty one pounds fourteen
+shillings and a penny. The present venerable structure has undergone
+many changes, and has been greatly encreased and beautified by several
+of its bishops since its first erection, a circumstance that naturally
+followed from the immense expense attending such an undertaking, which
+must at any period have greatly exceeded the income, even of the
+wealthiest abbot or bishop that the church has yet known. The similarity
+of parts in the style of its architecture, has induced some persons to
+conjecture that it was all built at the same period: this I judge could
+not have been the case, there is more reason to believe that the
+earliest forms served as a model for future ages to work upon. It has
+undergone shameful depredations: the chief of which were occasioned by
+the puritanical principles of the last century, when a blind zeal upon
+religious subjects devoted the most beautiful and venerable vestiges of
+antiquity to ruin and destruction, as abominations hateful in the eyes
+of God and man. The form of the arches seems to indicate that the
+earlier part of this building was erected about the æra of the Saxon
+architecture; its columns are peculiarly ponderous and massive, they
+appear to have been erected “not for an age, but for all time.” Some
+monuments of their bishops still remain, amongst which, in the north
+wing is the shrine of bishop Cantilupe. The monument of the family of
+the Bohuns, in the library is curious, and deserves the attention of the
+antiquary: a recumbent figure is laying beneath a pointed Gothic arch,
+round which are a number of hogs, covered with a kind of body cloth, on
+which are painted the arms of the family, each hog having before him an
+apple to which he seems smelling. This ancient family of the Bohuns and
+the Lacies earls of Hereford, are said by some writers to have been the
+founders of Hereford castle, which Leland asserts “to have been one of
+the fairest, largest, and strongest in England.” The preceding view of
+Hereford was made in the summer of 1794, at which time the tower of the
+cathedral was surrounded with a scaffold, and the whole of the building
+under a thorough repair, from the dreadful accident that happened in the
+year 1786; On the 17th day of April in that year, about half past six in
+the evening, the west tower of the cathedral with part of the body of
+the church unfortunately fell down. The above accident did not happen
+without giving evident signs of gradual decay, both from the dropping of
+many stones, and the settling of the arches, which had been remarked for
+two or three years previous to the event. This dreadful catastrophe was
+sufficiently foreseen to prevent any fatal consequences. No lives were
+lost though many persons were passing the church yard at the time, and
+we of this day have the less reason to deplore the accident, as the
+rulers of this church, have had the good sense to make use of the rare
+talents of an architect, whose knowledge of the Gothic, and natural
+taste for grandeur and simplicity, so peculiarly fitted him for the
+office of restoring this venerable fabric to its true characteristical
+dignity, and who does not appear to have deviated from the original
+design, where it was possible to conform to it. One principal
+improvement has been the removing some walls that encircled a material
+part of the church, by which means a view was opened, of two beautiful
+chapels, called Stanbury and Audley, that had been long concealed from
+the public eye.
+
+Mr. Wyat’s estimate of the repair of this building was seven thousand
+pounds, five thousand of which was raised by subscription. But I am
+informed that to complete this repair, the whole expense will amount to
+at least thirteen thousand pounds.
+
+This magnificent structure has ever been considered by the antiquary,
+notwithstanding its irregularity, as a splendid specimen of the piety
+and munificence of our early churchmen; and the arched roof of the upper
+cross aisle, supported by a single pillar, is peculiarly deserving
+attention. Tradition says, it was erected in the reign of William Rufus,
+by Robert de Lozinga, second bishop of the see of Hereford. The height
+of the tower was one hundred and twenty-five feet, upon which was a
+lofty spire, that has, since the accident, been taken down.
+
+On the site on which this cathedral stands there was anciently a church,
+founded during the zenith of the Saxon heptarchy about the ninth
+century, soon after which it became a cathedral, and Hereford was made
+the see of a bishop. The cathedral was destroyed, and the city sacked in
+the reign of Edward the Confessor, by Griffin prince of South Wales who
+made the bishop prisoner. At the Norman invasion the city was in ruins,
+and within its walls and the suburbs, there were not, according to
+doomsday book, more than one hundred and three men.
+
+At a small distance from the cathedral stands the vicar’s college, it
+forms a square, within which is a plain but venerable cloister. From its
+elevated situation, it commands a beautiful view of the meandering
+course of our river Wye, and its fertile and verdant banks. Although it
+is not the professed intention of this work to enter into a minute
+history of cities, or towns, yet the antiquity of this venerable place
+demands our attention, and cannot be passed over in silence, we shall
+therefore mention the once elegant building of the chapter house, of
+which, though but a small fragment presents itself, there is yet
+sufficient of the picturesque to attract the notice of the curious
+traveller, nor can the remains of the Black Fryars with its beautiful
+cross, or rather stone pulpit, be passed unnoticed, the latter is here
+preserved in a wood cut from a sketch made on the spot in 1794.
+
+[Illustration: Black-and-white engraving of a small Gothic-style tower
+with narrow arched openings and a pointed finial on top. A ladder leans
+against the right side. Dense shrubs and a tall tree surround the base.]
+
+The building is Hexagonal, open at every side, and round it is a flight
+of six steps. The shaft of the cross which is broken off, rests on a
+table of the same form in the centre of the building, and spreads itself
+towards the roof in ramifications that produce a very beautiful effect.
+Some of the embattlements yet remain on the upper part of the building,
+the whole of which appears to have been finished with great care and
+elegance. From this building, sermons were delivered by the fryers, who
+were then extremely popular, to the multitude who were sheltered under
+the cloister, that it is presumed, surrounded this building. An hospital
+in 1614, was founded on the site whereon stood the black fryars, by Sir
+Thomas Coningsby of Hampton Court, in this county, who was then
+proprietor of the ruins, and by him it was endowed with considerable
+estates in Leicestershire, and was intended as a relief to the worn out
+soldier and superannuated faithful servant.
+
+The city of Hereford, appears by its remaining walls, to have been well
+and regularly fortified, and its castle must have been a very capital
+fortress. The site whereon it stood retains the name of Castle Green,
+and affords a pleasant retreat, commanding a very beautiful view of the
+river beneath and of the surrounding country. This being a remarkable
+dry season, barges have been laying at Hereford for upwards four months,
+for want of water to carry them down.
+
+The principal articles of navigation are timber, bark, and grain, and
+the back carriage, is coals from Ledbrook and other places below Ross.
+Hereford is not favourably situated for manufactures or commerce. It is
+ill supplied with fuel, and that not good, and the uncertain state of
+the river, from its shoals and great rapidity, prevents that constant
+and uniform navigation which can alone support a regular and extensive
+trade. To remove these barriers, several attempts, I am informed, have
+been made, but the estimate of expenses has been so enormous, that the
+measure has always proved abortive.
+
+Quitting Hereford, the Wye bends its course round a point of land for a
+distance of near two miles, when we are again brought almost as near to
+the town, as when we quitted it. The river as we passed down, still
+continued its circuitous windings, but with a more placid surface,
+seldom meeting any obstruction in its course, from those rocky
+substances that formed the grand characteristic of the stream in its
+earlier stages. The general face of the country is rich in verdure, and
+the cattle grazing on the banks of the river or laving in its stream,
+are objects that perpetually contribute to enliven the scene.
+
+About six miles below Hereford, the Wye receives the river Lug, one of
+the three principal rivers in this county; it derives its source from
+the mountains in the north east part of Radnorshire, and running east,
+through Herefordshire to Leominster, takes a south east direction
+towards the Wye; in its course it is joined by several smaller streams,
+and on its near approach to our river, becomes a stream of considerable
+magnitude. About a mile from the bank of the Wye, this river runs
+through the pleasant village of Mordiford, and adds much to the
+picturesque scenery of the place. On the east end of the church of
+Mordiford is represented in plaster, an enormous dragon or serpent, the
+history of which is thus recorded. Some centuries ago, we know not when,
+a dragon is reported to have been the devourer of all the cattle on the
+adjoining hills called Offwood, and was a monster of such terrific
+qualities, that no one could for a great length of time, be found bold
+enough to undertake his destruction, till at length a pardon being
+granted to a condemned criminal, on condition that he would undertake
+it, he achieved his purpose, by slaying the dragon as he was solacing
+himself in a cyder hogshead. This wonderful relation, seems to be
+generally credited by the people in the neighbourhood, as no doubt it
+was at the building of this edifice, or this strange monster would not
+have been represented in so terrific a form, and in so conspicuous a
+place as the front of the church. After relating this wonderful
+circumstance, may we be permitted to quote another, not less so from the
+learned Camden. He says, that “near the conflux of the Lug and the Wye,
+eastward, a hill which they call Marcley hill, did in the year 1575,
+rouse itself as it were out of sleep, and for three days together,
+shoving its prodigious body forward with a horrible roaring noise, and
+overturning every thing in its way, raised itself (to the great
+astonishment of the beholders) to a higher place; by that kind of
+earthquake, I suppose, which the Naturalists call Brasmatia.” On a hill
+adjoining the village, a large stone house has been recently erected by
+a Mr. Hereford, which deserves notice from the extensive and beautiful
+view it commands of Hereford and the surrounding country.
+
+About a mile below Mordiford, we pass a large brick mansion belonging to
+the Duke of Norfolk, called Holme Lacy, formerly the seat of the ancient
+family of the Scudamores. On this site stood an abbey for
+Premonstratensian cannons, dedicated to the Virgin Mary and Thomas a
+Becket, founded by William Fitzwain in the beginning of the reign of
+Henry the third; the house is a flat uninteresting building, but
+comprises within its view a beautiful and picturesque prospect on the
+opposite side of the river, called Fownhope. The village is situated
+amidst a rich thicket of verdant and woody scenery, on an extensive
+slope rising from a rocky bank of the Wye.
+
+This richly diversified hill, is at a proper distance from the eye, to
+enable it distinctly to mark the several species of trees of which it is
+composed; these cannot be more aptly described, than in the lines of
+Dyer, on a similar subject, in his charming poem of Grongar Hill.
+
+              “The gloomy pine, the poplar blue,
+              “The yellow beech, the sable yew,
+              “The slender fir, that taper grows,
+              “The sturdy oak, with broad spread boughs.”
+
+Amongst the few houses that are scattered on this beautiful scene, the
+principal are those of Mr. Lechmere, and Mr. Purchase, who has a
+considerable brewery here. A little below the next bend of the river, a
+range of hills called Capler hills, form a rich screen to the northern
+bank of the Wye. These hills are upwards of a mile and a half in length,
+and are principally covered with oak trees, the soil which is of a
+reddish cast, frequently breaks through the verdure of its plantations,
+and gives a warm and animated tinge to the landscape. A high road passes
+the summit of these hills, that commands a beautiful prospect of the
+surrounding country, and the meandering river beneath. Near Brookhampton
+on Capler hill, is the remain of a very large square camp called Wobury,
+it appears to be double trenched, but narrow and near half a mile in
+length. About five years ago, near three acres of these hills fell into
+the Wye and narrowed its course, but it has from that circumstance,
+obtained a more considerable depth than we have before witnessed in this
+river, being now in a dry season, upwards of five feet deep.
+
+On the left of the river, at Aramstone, is a fine view of the village of
+King’s Caple situated amidst a beautiful assemblage of woods. Below this
+spot on the opposite bank is Harewood, the residence of the Hoskins’s an
+ancient family in the county of Hereford. This place is peculiarly
+worthy notice, as it composed part of the forest of Harewood, in which
+Ethelwold, king Edgar’s minister had a castle. Here Mason fixed the
+scene, for his dramatic poem of Elfrida, and thus he describes the scene
+before us
+
+            “How nobly does this venerable wood,
+            “Gilt with the glories of the orient sun
+            “Embosom yon fair mansion! the soft air
+            “Salutes me with most cool and temp’rate breath;
+            “And as I tread, the flow’r besprinkled lawn
+            “Sends up a gale of fragrance. I should guess,
+            “If e’er content deign’d visit mortal clime,
+            “This was her place of dearest residence.”
+
+From hence amidst a rich and woody country, admitting from its sameness
+little variety worthy either the pen or pencil, we pursued our course
+down the gentle stream till we reached the pleasant village of Selleck;
+its church is of a singular construction, and no less so is that of an
+epitaph I copied in the church yard, on the tombstone of one Richard
+Addis who died in 1788, aged 80.
+
+                 “When Christ come riding on the clouds
+                 “To view the world abroad,
+                 “Angels and saints crying aloud
+                 “Rise dead and meet the Lord.”
+
+On the opposite side of the river, a little below Harewood, is a fine
+grove of trees called Caple Tump, where an annual festival is held from
+all the neighbouring towns, and where
+
+           “All the village train, from labor free,
+           “Lead up their sports beneath the spreading tree.”
+
+About two miles below Selleck, we were gratified with the most beautiful
+and luxuriant view of Ross, that I believe the country from any point
+affords.
+
+
+
+
+                               SECTION V.
+
+
+On the approach to Ross, a fine amphitheatre of trees called Ashwood
+skirts the southern bank of the Wye. From this charming spot, near three
+miles above Ross, the annexed view which comprehends the principal
+objects that compose the beautiful in picturesque landscape was
+sketched. The town is situated on the declivity of a hill at a happy
+distance, and not too obtrusive on the eye; the rising hills with which
+it is screened give a boldness of character to the situation, nor is the
+winding of the river, and verdure of the country that enrich its banks,
+less characteristic of this delightful neighbourhood. The hill to the
+right of the town is called the Chase, and that on the left,
+Penyard-wood, on which formerly stood a castle, said to have been
+destroyed in the civil wars. The white spire of Ross church “bosomed
+high in tufted trees” has at this distance an effect peculiarly
+pleasing, but on a nearer approach, the town obtrudes too much on the
+eye, and the picturesque and beautiful, gradually disappear.
+
+Ross, abstracted from its elevated and delightful situation, has little
+to render it worthy attention; the prospect from the church yard a spot
+to which the traveller is generally conducted on his arrival, displays a
+very extensive and enchanting landscape both above and below the town.
+
+The beautiful and meandering course of the river beneath, enriched with
+pleasure boats constantly in motion, in their passage to and from
+Chepstow, gives life and beauty to the scene. These boats are lightly
+constructed and are navigated by three men, either with or without a
+sail. The heavy mass of building called the Town Hall, from its general
+appearance conveys a faint idea of the worst style of Saxon
+architecture; it is a ponderous and unmeaning heap of stone, huddled
+together in the tasteless reign of James the first, by one John Abel who
+erected a similar building at Hereford; they vie with each other in want
+of taste, and have nothing to render them worthy notice but their
+absurdity, which I believe is not to be equalled by the dullest
+architect of that or any other period. At one end of the building,
+intended I presume as an ornament, there is a noseless bust, supposed to
+be that of the merry monarch Charles the second. In such a state of
+decay is the stone of which this edifice is composed, together with the
+heavy style of its architecture, that it has every appearance of having
+been erected as far back as the time of the Saxons.
+
+Notwithstanding the disadvantage under which this building labors, I
+have yet considered the general view of which it forms a part as not
+devoid of interest, it comprises the house in which the man of Ross
+resided till his death, now known by the sign of the King’s Arm Inn. As
+every the most trifling circumstance relative to a character so highly
+distinguished by the pen of Pope, and still more highly dignified by the
+general voice of the people of Ross becomes interesting, I have here
+thought fit to give a view of the house in which he resided, and the
+adjoining buildings.
+
+To the benevolent John Kyrle, a name almost lost in the superior title
+of the Good Man of Ross this town owes most of its improvements and
+charitable institutions.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  _S. Ireland del._
+
+  _Market house &c._
+
+  _Pub. for S. Ireland Mar. 1, 1797_
+]
+
+He was born at Whitehouse, in the parish of Dymock, in the county of
+Hereford in 1637, served the office of sheriff for the county in 1683,
+and died in 1724.
+
+From an income of only five hundred pounds a year, this good man appears
+to have derived every happiness to himself and to have diffused it with
+uncommon benevolence to all around him. This exemplary character has
+been so interestingly delineated by the pen of Pope, that the
+introduction of the following lines although well known, will need no
+apology for their insertion in this work.
+
+        “Rise honest muse! and sing the _Man of Ross_:
+        “Pleas’d Vaga echoes thro’ her winding bounds,
+        “And rapid Severn hoarse applause resounds.
+        “Who hung with woods yon mountain’s sultry brow?
+        “From the dry rock, who bade the waters flow?
+        “Not to the skies in useless columns tost,
+        “Or in proud falls magnificently lost,
+        “But clear, and artless, pouring thro’ the plain
+        “Health to the sick, and solace to the swain.
+        “Whose cause-way parts the vale with shady rows?
+        “Whose seats the weary traveller repose?
+        “Who taught the heaven directed spire to rise?
+        “The _Man of Ross_, each lisping babe replies.
+        “Behold the market-place with poor o’erspread!
+        “_The Man of Ross_ divides the weekly bread;
+        “He feeds yon alms-house, neat, but void of state,
+        “Where age, and want sit smiling at the gate;
+        “Him portion’d maids, apprentic’d orphans blest,
+        “The young who labor, and the old who rest.
+        “Is any sick? the _Man of Ross_ relieves,
+        “Prescribes, attends, the medicine makes, and gives.”
+        “Is there a variance? enter but his door,
+        “Balk’d are the courts, and contest is no more.
+        “Despairing Quacks with curses fled the place,
+        “And vile Attorneys, now an useless race.
+
+     B. “Thrice happy man! enabled to pursue
+        “What all so wish, but want the power to do!
+        “Oh say, what sums that gen’rous hand supply?
+        “What mines to swell that boundless charity?
+
+     P. “Of debts and taxes, wife and children clear,
+        “This man possest—five hundred pounds a year.
+        “Blush, grandeur, blush! proud courts withdraw your blaze,
+        “Ye little stars! hide your diminished rays.
+
+     B. “And what? no monument, inscription, stone?
+        “His race, his form, his name almost unknown?
+
+     P. “Who builds a church to God, and not to fame,
+        “Will never mark the marble with his name;
+        “Go, search it there, where to be born and die,
+        “Of rich and poor makes all the history;
+        “Enough that virtue fill’d the space between
+        “Prov’d by the ends of being, to have been.”
+
+The allusion of the poet, to a neglect in not raising a monument to the
+good man’s name, no longer exists, for in 1776 a neat mural tablet was
+erected to his memory in the chancel of the church, by Colonel Money, to
+defray the expence of which, the sum of three hundred pounds was
+bequeathed by a Lady Kinnoul, whose property devolving to the Colonel,
+the good intention of the lady was by him accomplished. On this tablet
+the following lines are inscribed.
+
+“This monument was erected in memory of Mr. John Kyrle, commonly called
+the Man of Ross.”
+
+It is somewhat singular that neither his age, nor the time of his death,
+are here mentioned. The design for the monument was made by a Mr. Marsh
+of this town, who has introduced a bust of the good man that bears
+little resemblance to either of the two portraits I met with in Ross;
+one of these is in the possession of Philip Jones Esq.; a gentleman, who
+by marriage with a descendant of John Kyrle, enjoys all his property,
+and by his urbanity renders himself a worthy representative of that
+exemplary character. This picture appears to be that of a person about
+thirty six years of age, and is evidently the work of Sir Peter Lely.
+The other portrait was at the King’s Arms Inn, formerly the residence of
+John Kyrle, as described in the view given in this section, it
+represents him at a more advanced period of life, and on that account,
+although ill painted, it was preferred to the former as he is exhibited
+nearer the close of a life, long and happily spent in the promotion of
+virtue, and to the honor of human nature. I flatter myself the annexed
+etching from this picture will not prove unacceptable to the admirer and
+collector of portraits, as I do not remember to have ever seen a print
+of this exalted character. The original is said to have been sketched
+from the life unknown to Mr. Kyrle, on a Sunday whilst he was attending
+divine service. He had often been solicited to sit for his picture, but
+no inducement could prevail on him to comply with the request of his
+friends.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  _F. Barlow sculp^t._
+
+  JOHN KYRLE,
+
+  _Commonly called the Man of Ross_.
+]
+
+It is reported of Mr. Kyrle, that his ordinary mode of dress, was very
+plain, and so mean as even to suggest the idea of indigence and want.
+And even more unfavourable conclusions have been made, from his general
+appearance, for upon no better foundation, it is said that when
+travelling in Oxfordshire on horseback, he was apprehended near Benson,
+upon a suspicion of having committed a robbery in a neighbouring county.
+I need not add that this charge was dismissed the instant his name was
+made known to the magistracy.
+
+We cannot quit this town without noticing to the picturesque traveller,
+a charming walk made by Mr. Kyrle, which led to what he called his farm,
+it commands a beautiful view of the devious windings of the river
+beneath, and Wilton castle, bridge, &c. on the opposite shore.
+
+
+
+
+                              SECTION VI.
+
+
+About a mile below Ross, Wilton Castle first attracts our attention.
+This ruin is situated on the margin of the Wye, and affords with its
+surrounding objects in many points of view, scenes not unworthy the
+attention of the antiquary or admirer of picturesque objects. Its
+western walls and round towers are in the most perfect state of
+preservation, but the annexed view, comprising a part of the bridge, is
+selected as most appropriate to the design of this work and to exemplify
+the course of the river. The castle has formerly covered a considerable
+extent of ground, the greater part of which is now used as a garden.
+Camden says “that king John gave Wilton with the castle to Henry
+Longchamp and that it came by marriage to William Fitzhugh, and not long
+after, in King Edward the first’s time, to Reginald Grey, Justice of
+Chester, from whom by a long descent it came to Lord Grey of Wilton,
+whose son Arthur Lord Grey was Lord Deputy of Ireland.” This noble
+person merits particular attention, as having been the early patron of
+our Spencer the poet, who accompanied him to Ireland as his secretary.
+
+In the county of Cork, at a place called Kilcolman, Spencer is reported
+to have finished his excellent poem of the Fairy Queen. The River Mulla,
+so often mentioned by him, ran through the grounds of the house in which
+he resided. His gratitude to his patron is thus recorded, in a sonnet
+addressed to him, and is prefixed to the poem.
+
+            “Most noble lord the pillor of my life,
+            “And patrone of my muses pupillage:
+            “Through whose large bountie, poured on me rife
+            “In the first season of my feeble age,
+            “I nowe doe live bound yours by vassalage;” &c.
+
+At what period Wilton Castle went out of the family of the Greys is not
+mentioned, but it afterwards belonged to the Lord Chandos, from whom it
+descended to the duke of Chandos who built Canons in Middlesex. The
+remains of this castle, with Aconbury, Dewfall, and other considerable
+estates in the neighbourhood belonging to this family, amounting to near
+four thousand pounds per annum, were sold some years ago to the
+governors of Guy’s Hospital. The castle is reported to have been
+principally destroyed by fire, but at what period is not ascertained. In
+support of this idea we observed, that towards the ends of the timbers,
+many of them appeared to have been much burned. On this spot an
+assemblage of rich and woody scenery, forms the leading feature of the
+vicinity of our river, and about two miles below Wilton bridge I would
+advise the admirer of the truly grand in landscape, to ascend the hill
+in the high road to Monmouth, where at a place called Pencreek, the eye
+is feasted with one of the most magnificent views this river affords.
+The distant church of Ross, its neighboring woods and hills, and the
+meandering course of the Wye, all combine from hence to form this
+fascinating scene. Here the course of the river is peculiarly marked,
+its channel is nobly formed, and wears a grandeur not to be met with in
+any other river we have yet seen in this country.
+
+Amidst a variety of enchanting views, passing from one bend of the river
+to another, Goodrich castle, on the summit of a bold promontory, amidst
+an elegant woodland scene, nobly raises its ruined battlements, as if
+frowning on the stream beneath.
+
+On ascending the hill to contemplate the spoils of Time, who ravages
+alike the forms of beauty and the tower of strength, by leaving for a
+moment the ordinary path and passing up what is called Conduit hill,
+Walford church, Ross, and the surrounding country, at a happy distance,
+combine to form a landscape of peculiar richness and beauty. History
+does not inform us at what period this castle was erected, but we find
+that early as the fifth year of the reign of King John, William
+Marshall, Earl of Pembroke had a grant of it. From this family it came
+to Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, in the reign of Edward the third, and in
+the twentieth year of Richard the second, Sir John Scudamore of Holme
+Lacy was constituted its constable, during the minority of John Lord
+Talbot, in whose family it continued till the fourteenth of James the
+First; at which period Gilbert Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury died, leaving
+three daughters his coheiresses. Elizabeth the second daughter was
+married to Henry de Grey, Earl of Kent, by which marriage he became
+possessor of this manor, which continued in the family till the death of
+Henry Duke of Kent in 1740, after which it was sold to Thomas Griffin,
+Esq.; Vice Admiral of the White, whose second son, the Reverend Dr.
+Griffin of Hadnock near Monmouth, is its present owner.
+
+This celebrated castle was nearly square, covering a space of ground
+forty eight yards by fifty two; it was defended at each angle by four
+large round towers, one of which formed an irregular Heptagon. Through a
+perfect Gothic arch, we are led to a spacious hall of good proportion
+overgrown with ivy, adjoining which is an area, presenting the remains
+of a lofty square building, with circular arched windows in the Saxon
+style, resembling Gundulph’s tower at Rochester castle. By the fragment
+of a stone staircase, we ascend another embattled tower, through which
+at a great depth appears the immense fosse, or trench, which is hewn out
+of a solid rock, and is twenty yards in breadth. Here was once a
+draw-bridge and two gates with recesses between each, evidently intended
+as places of safety for its guards, who unseen might annoy the enemy.
+The various points from which this castle may be viewed to advantage,
+would afford ample matter for the antiquary, artist, and military
+architect.
+
+Quitting this spot, several views of the castle presented themselves,
+but they were all undignified and uninteresting when compared with those
+we had before contemplated. The country on the opposite side of the
+river towards the village of Walford, is peculiarly beautiful. In the
+church of Walford, one of the aisles is now called Kyrle’s chapel; it
+was erected by that family for their private use, before it became a
+parochial church; about a mile below the castle, is a small remain of
+Goodrich priory; a few Gothic windows are yet standing, and part of the
+chapel which is now converted to a granary; the whole affords an object
+sufficient to attract the notice of the curious.
+
+[Illustration: Black-and-white engraving of a group of connected
+buildings with steep gabled roofs, small arched windows, and two crosses
+at the roof peaks. A set of exterior steps and a small platform stand at
+the center, with a cart in front. A tall tree rises at the right side.]
+
+This priory was a monastery of the order of black cannons regular of St.
+Augustine, founded and endowed with the king’s licence in the twentieth
+year of Edward the fourth, 1347. Its situation corresponds with the
+happy choice usually made by the ancient possessors of religious houses,
+it stands in a fertile valley, watered by one of the finest rivers in
+the kingdom. The building with the lands contiguous to the castle are
+occupied by a Mr. Bellamy. From the ascent, approaching the village of
+Goodrich a rich and extensive view presents itself across the forest of
+Dean, from whence Rure-dean church happily breaks upon the eye.
+
+Here the Wye in a long and serpentine reach, appears in a perspective
+point of view and affords a pleasing and happy termination to the
+scenery; its banks are screened on the south, by an extensive coppice
+wood, and on the north, by fertile meadows rising towards Bishop’s-wood,
+from which a considerable iron furnace in this vicinity derives its
+name. From the stone quarries in this neighborhood, the new bridge at
+Bristol was principally erected.
+
+Passing down the river, the next object that attracts our notice is
+Courtfield, the seat of the Vaughan family.
+
+This spot is rendered remarkable from Henry the fifth having been nursed
+in the neighbourhood. That prince we are told, was when young of a weak
+and sickly habit, and was placed under the care of a countess of
+Salisbury, from which circumstance in all probability, the original name
+of this place which was Greyfield, was changed to the appellation it now
+bears. We next approach Lidbroke colliery and very large and extensive
+wharf, from whence a considerable commerce in coals is carried on to
+Ross, Hereford and other places. This productive mine is the property of
+Lord Gage. With all the dark and dingy attributes of this place,
+involved as it is in smoke, and begirt with coal barges, it yet affords
+a very pleasing and interesting landscape. The high road that ascends
+the woody hill, screening the back ground of this wharf, is perpetually
+enlivened by horses and carriages in this sooty sable commerce, while on
+the bank of the river beneath, the lading and unlading the vessels,
+afford additional business and variety to the scene. This view is finely
+contrasted on a sudden bend of the river a little below, where all is
+tranquil and serene. The picturesque village of Welch Bicknor presents
+itself in a rich valley on the right bank of the Wye, happily overshaded
+by a thicket of woods, ranged in a grand and circular sweep. These are
+called Hawkwood and Packwood, and extend about a mile along the bank of
+the river. The village church and parsonage house, group in a form
+peculiarly beautiful and interesting.
+
+In the body of the church, fronting the reading desk, is a cumbent whole
+length female figure, well sculptured in a darkish coloured stone.
+Traditional report says it represents the countess of Salisbury, whom we
+have just mentioned as having nursed king Henry the fifth. She holds a
+child in each arm. This effigy is highly worthy of notice. The drapery
+is in a loose and free style, and the general contour of the whole
+bespeaks it the work of an artist of talent. A little below this scene,
+the Wye is bounded on the opposite shore by a long range of hills,
+beautifully cloathed with verdure, and diversified by a rich and broken
+soil of a warm and reddish hue, frequently over clouded with shades of
+smoak that issue from the various kilns, kept continually burning near
+this spot. These circumstances trifling and adventitious as they may
+appear, give relief and effect to the picturesque and beautiful in
+landscape. Approaching the foot of Cold-well rocks, a scene sublime and
+majestic presents itself. The grand prominencies are overhung with
+richly varied tufts of oak, and other shrubberies, occasionally
+contrasted and relieved by deep and shadowy dells, formed by the various
+lime kilns on their surface. Some of the most prominent of Cold-well
+rocks, we are informed, have by some gentlemen of the bar, in their
+passage down this river, been christened after the names of our
+principal council. The connection is not obvious, or readily traced.
+
+Here we quitted the barge to ascend these majestic rocks, which by an
+immense and craggy steep, we with difficulty accomplished, and reached
+the summit called Symond’s Gate. This task, arduous as it is should not
+deter the traveller from pursuing this course, as by means of it he will
+avoid a dull and uninteresting passage on the water of full three miles
+to the new Weir, and by passing over these rocks he will enjoy a
+sublimity of scenery that will amply repay his toil and labour. As we
+ascend these superb masses of stone, the rich and extensive scenery that
+surrounds us, is every moment unfolding itself: the summit is richly
+overgrown with wild thyme, and variegated flowers, and is crowned with
+the rich and deep foliage of the noble oak
+
+              “Here all the air a solemn stillness holds”
+
+save the distant lowing of cattle, and from his rocky bed, the dirge
+like evening song of the owl, that floats along the gale.
+
+From hence Goodrich castle, which we imagined we had left far behind,
+breaks suddenly upon the eye, and appears from the immense winding of
+the river to be a near object. The new weir, and adjoining waterfall,
+with the surrounding rich and healthy hills afford from this spot a
+combination of objects, that deservedly rank among the first views on
+the river, or perhaps in this country.
+
+The village of Whitechurch in the centre of the vale beneath, with the
+vast hills beyond it, afford a sublime termination to this reach of the
+river.
+
+At Whitechurch is a second ferry called Hunson’s Rope. This ferry
+although seven miles distant by water from that of Goodrich, is only one
+mile by land, a striking instance of the very appropriate and
+characteristical title of our river, which from its mazy and circuitous
+course, is justly denominated the Vaga, or Wye.
+
+
+
+
+                              SECTION VII.
+
+
+Descending towards the new Weir by a course not less rugged than that by
+which we ascended, the fatigue we had undergone, was amply repaid by the
+gratification we received in some of the most beautiful views that can
+be imagined. These presented themselves through the various breaks of
+the rocks, or openings of the surrounding woods with which they are
+enriched. The serpentine winding of the river, and the vast prominencies
+and fantastic forms of the rocks in its vicinity, give an air of solemn
+gloom and grandeur to the scene. From the approach to the Weir, the
+annexed view was selected, it comprises all the principal objects that
+could be admitted within the limits of a scale so circumscribed. The
+innumerable circumstances that aid this grand and sublime scene, are
+such as to render it almost impossible for the pencil, to render it
+justice. The iron forges on the opposite side of the river, not less
+from their appearance than from the important purposes they answer in
+human life, give an interest to this effusion of nature, while the awful
+sound of the iron hammers beating the fiery mass, awakens in the mind
+new sensations giving dignity and grandeur to the subject. This
+picturesque scene is much heightened by the immense volumes of sparkling
+smoak that are continually issuing from the forges, these give a
+pleasing though transitory relief to the sombre, and distant hills that
+terminate the view. Around these works are scattered great masses of
+half burned ore, coal, and cinders, and interspersed on the barren and
+extensive moor in the vicinity, are many humble cottages of the various
+workmen employed in the manufactory. The roaring of the waters from the
+cascade of the Weir adjoining to this work has a grand effect, its fall
+is precipitate although at no great height, nor is it perceived from
+above the stream.
+
+The river here receives a considerable degree of agitation from the huge
+masses of stone, either swept down by the stream, or hurled from the
+summit of the neighbouring rocks. Here the Wye increases in width, and
+its current is so strong, that it is with extraordinary labour and
+difficulty the barges are towed up. I have seen eight or ten men
+throwing themselves on the earth on every pull, to give force to their
+exertions.
+
+In this part of the river is frequently seen a small fishing boat on a
+singular construction, called a corricle, it is ribbed with laths or
+split twigs, and is covered with a strong pitched canvas, to prevent its
+leaking, it is about five feet and a half long and four broad. In the
+middle is a seat that holds one man, who sits with a paddle in one hand
+while he fishes with the other. His labour finished, he throws the
+corricle over his shoulder and retires to his home.
+
+A little below the weir the river scenery is terminated by what is
+called King Arthur’s plain, or Doward hills. To the traveller who is
+bold enough to attempt the summit of these hills, the views will afford
+ample variety both in the beautiful and sublime. Camden conjectures,
+that on these hills there has anciently been a fortification, and what
+makes it more probable is, that in digging there for iron ore, and lime
+stone, he says “broad arrow heads have been found, and not long ago, the
+greatest part of the bones of a gigantic person were found here
+interred, in a place “that seemed to be arched over.” Whatever may have
+been the ancient destination of this spot, its present attractions
+proceed from the very extensive and richly diversified prospects that
+present themselves from every point of view. On a spot adjoining to the
+wood on the extremity of this hill, is a cavern that bears the name of
+King Arthur’s Hall; it is said to extend by a passage from hence to the
+new weir, a distance of about a mile. Many fabulous and romantic tales
+have been attached to the history of this hall, but the fact appears to
+be simply this, that it was a cavern, from whence was dug a rich mine of
+iron ore, that supplied the adjoining furnaces.
+
+A detached cluster of rocks called St. Martins’, or the three Sisters,
+somewhat resembling but much inferior to those at Cold-well, skirt the
+river in passing down, near which at a short reach called St. Martin’s
+Well, the stream is supposed to have a greater depth of water than in
+any other part. At the extremity of this reach from a beautiful vale,
+King Arthur’s plain again presents itself, assuming a new and
+castellated form, and here every stroak of the oar gives variety to the
+scene, and every object seems to vary its situation. The vast assemblage
+of rocks we have just contemplated, appear to vanish and melt into a
+distant hill, rising from a craggy base on the margin of the river.
+
+About two miles before we reach Monmouth, Hadnock house and the beauties
+of its situation justly demand our attention. It is situated on the edge
+of the forest of Dean, and stands on the brow of a hill, commanding a
+fascinating view of the meandering Wye, that gently glides beneath its
+rocky hills: these are enriched with verdant coppice woods that screen
+this beautiful spot, the residence of the Rev. Dr. Griffin, whom we have
+before mentioned. From hence along the base of the hills, a road running
+parallel with the river that leads on to Monmouth.
+
+
+
+
+                             SECTION VIII.
+
+
+Quitting Hadnock, we are gratified with a distant view of the bridge and
+town of Monmouth. The solitary church of Dixton on the opposite bank of
+the river, although deficient in accompaniments is yet a characteristic
+and interesting feature in the fore ground of the landscape; and it
+continues to be such, though since this drawing was executed, its
+interior received in the great flood in 1795 very material injury; the
+water having forced its way through the windows and doors, and torn up
+pulpit, pews and pavement.
+
+Monmouth bridge is of stone, and consists of six irregular arches. The
+town derives its name from its situation at the conflux of the Wye and
+Mynwye, generally, and by the Welsh particularly pronounced Monnow.
+
+A great part of Monmouth is encompassed by this river which empties
+itself into the Wye at the lower end of the town; where a very ancient
+bridge and gateway, formerly a barrier against the Welsh, is thrown
+across this mountain stream. It is somewhat extraordinary, that neither
+history or tradition, although they are both mentioned by Leland in his
+itinerary, afford any information as to the period in which they were
+built. Independent however of historical evidence, they bear such
+unequivocal marks of antiquity, that the picturesque effect they
+produce, gives them ample claim to a place in this work. The annexed
+plate will we flatter ourselves, convey a faithful representation of
+this venerable remain, and in some degree illustrate the situation of
+the town itself; which though low, is seated in a spot at once both
+pleasing and romantic.
+
+Monmouth had anciently four gates, and the suburb was defended by a wall
+and deep ditch on each side, except that next the river. As far back as
+Leland’s time, the walls and every other embattled part but the square
+tower were in a state of ruin. The church is an entire modern structure.
+
+Monmouth has high claim to consideration and respect, from its having
+given birth to our fifth Henry the conqueror of France, whose active
+spirit, warlike qualities, and superior skill in horsemanship,
+particularly at a time when to be accomplished, was indispensible to the
+character of a gentleman, and the cavalry service began to be in a
+manner appropriated to men of this rank, are thus enchantingly, and with
+all the ease and grace of the gallant and princely horseman he
+describes, delineated by our matchless bard.
+
+           “I saw young Harry with his beaver on,
+           “His cuiffes on his thighs, gallantly arm’d,
+           “Rise from the ground like feather’d Mercury,
+           “And vaulted with such ease into his seat
+           “As if an angel dropp’d down from the clouds,
+           “To turn and wind a fiery pegasus,
+           “And witch the world with feats of horsemanship.”
+
+Henry was born in the castle of Monmouth, of which little more remains
+than a few fragments of walls, and an elevation or mound of earth, just
+sufficient to ascertain its site; and to demonstrate how evanescent and
+transitory are all human things; the strong embattled fortress as well
+as the cradle of princes. Such once were to be found on this spot; and
+that this awful truth may be more strongly impressed and exemplified,
+though there yet remains more visible and palpable evidence of one than
+of the other, let it be remembered, that the record of history will
+retain the memory of the birth place of Henry, when all traces of the
+castle shall have passed away, and even its site shall as ineffectually
+be sought after as at this hour the image of its former splendour.
+
+In this castle Edward the second, after he had been made prisoner by his
+queen Isabella, in 1326, was for a time confined. Having in the south
+west direction of the town, with some difficulty obtained a sketch of
+the ruin of the castle that partakes much of the picturesque, it is here
+given as an illustration of this venerable spot. The river Monnow
+beautifully winds beneath its ruined walls, the wooden bridge that is
+thrown across the stream, and the rich and verdant scenery of its hilly
+bank, all conspire to produce a landscape highly deserving a place in
+this work. The remains of the castle, denote it to be of Roman
+construction, Camden says that from the king’s records, a castle was
+standing here in a flourishing state, as early as the time of William
+the Conqueror, and that it was rebuilt by John Baron of Monmouth, about
+the year 1240.
+
+This town has not only the honor of giving birth to a great king, but
+likewise to a great historian, Galfredius Arthurius, Bishop of St.
+Asaph, better known by the name of Jeffery of Monmouth. He is supposed
+to have been educated at this place, which had then a benedictine
+monastery, or convent of black monks, founded in 1240 by Wihenoe de
+Monemue, or Monmouth. Monasteries were at that time the principal
+seminaries for learning in this country, as Oxford and Cambridge had not
+then risen to any great celebrity, and were at that period much
+depressed in consequence of the Danish invasion. Jeffery was made arch
+deacon of Monmouth in 1251, and was soon afterwards created bishop of
+St. Asaph. He translated the history of Britain from the British
+language into Latin, a work said to have been discovered by Walter
+Mapæus while in Armorica, and brought by him into England, where meeting
+with Jeffery of Monmouth, a man profoundly versed in the history and
+antiquities of Britain, and an elegant writer for the period in which he
+lived the task was entrusted to him. Merlin’s prophecies he also
+translated from British verse into Latin prose. This work was of
+essential service to the Welch chieftain Owen Glyndwr, whose high
+pretensions to soveriegnty were constantly favoured and cherished by
+these prophecies. The veracity of Jeffery, as an historian, has been
+doubted by many; Camden says that his relation of Brutus and his
+successors ought to be entirely disregarded. It may however be observed
+in favour of this writer, from the testimony of Giraldas Cambrensis his
+contemporary, that at that period the Welch bards and minstrels from
+early traditional accounts, received and transmitted with a mixture of
+religious reverence and awe, solemnly repeated the genealogy of their
+princes and heroes, from Roderic the Great to Æneas, and from Æneas
+lineally to Adam.
+
+If this should not altogether be thought to add much to their probable
+authenticity, it will serve to warrant the introduction of the history,
+to shew at least that he was not the author of the fiction; and, in
+tracing the origin of nations, tales to the full as fabulous are to be
+met with in the pages of many of our gravest and approved writers.
+
+To the few early historians of our own we owe much, and amongst these
+Jeffery deserves every respect, and we are bound to regret that in
+succeeding times, the best histories of this country will be found to
+have been the labors of foreigners. A fragment of Monmouth Priory, we
+have preserved as a tribute to the memory of the historian who was there
+educated: The Gothic window that appears in view remains very perfect,
+and appertains to a venerable ancient chamber, which he is reported to
+have occupied as a study. From the nature of its foundation, the free
+school at Monmouth particularly deserves our notice. Burton, in his
+history of Wales, gives this relation of William Jones its founder: he
+says, “Wm. Jones was born at Monmouth, and forced to quit his country
+for not being able to pay ten groats. Coming to London he became first a
+porter, and then a factor; and going over to Hamburgh, had such a vent
+for Welch cottons, that he gained a very considerable estate in a short
+time. He founded a fair school in Monmouth, allowing fifty pounds yearly
+to the master, and a hundred pounds salary to a lecturer, besides a
+stately alms-house for twenty poor people, each of them having two rooms
+and a garden, and half a crown a week; all which he left to the
+oversight of the company of haberdashers in London, who discharge their
+trust therein to this day.” Another account of the founder is thus
+given, but with less credibility. That he was a native of Newland, a few
+miles distant from Monmouth, and having quitted it when young to seek
+his fortune, he returned at an advanced period of life, in an apparent
+state of indigence, although very rich, and applied to his native town
+for relief as a pauper, which being refused, he took his revenge on the
+people by retiring to Monmouth, and there dispensing that wealth, that
+was intended to enrich his native place.
+
+We cannot quit the pleasant town of Monmouth without noticing the
+massive pile of its gaol. Built in a lofty and healthy spot, and in the
+form of an ancient castle; it frowns over the country, and impresses the
+idea of rigorous confinement and the impossibility of escape. At the
+time we visited this expensive and spacious work, it contained only one
+solitary inhabitant, and he a prisoner for only a very trivial offence.
+As our gaols increase in magnitude, it is with pleasure we have
+frequently had occasion to remark that there is a decrease of
+inhabitants, nor is it less worthy of observation that the humanity of
+supplying even those who least deserve it, with decent accommodation, as
+well as the blessing of light and air, before denied to them, is now
+most liberally granted.
+
+Perhaps it may not be too much to infer from hence, that the immensity
+of the bulk of these buildings, in the conspicuous situation in which
+they are now placed, may impress the multitude with such a terror of the
+consequence of crimes, as in some degree to prevent a commission of
+them. This building stands on an eminence, and commands a fine view of
+the town and surrounding country.
+
+
+
+
+                              SECTION IX.
+
+
+Quitting Monmouth on an excursion to Rhaglan Castle, we ascended a
+considerable hill about a mile from the town, that afforded one of the
+most luxuriant landscapes we had witnessed in the course of our route.
+From this eminence, the rich valley in which Monmouth is situated, and
+the beauties of the surrounding country, are highly illustrative of
+Gray’s opinion of the charming situation of this place. He rapturously
+describes this scene as “the delight of his eyes and the very seat of
+pleasure.” We have attempted to give an idea of this much admired spot
+in the annexed plate.
+
+The ride to Rhaglan Castle, a distance of about six miles, amply
+gratified us for this deviation from our main pursuit.
+
+This magnificent remain of ancient splendor stands on an elevated
+situation commonly called Twyn-y-ciros, which signifies in Welch the
+cherry hill; and, as we approach it from the village, appears to wear
+that solemn and majestic air highly characteristic of the spirit of the
+times in which it flourished. The external view here selected, we
+flatter ourselves will not only convey the best idea of its extent and
+magnificence, but is a point from which we do not remember to have ever
+seen it represented. This noble building, which may rather be terminated
+a castellated house than a castle, is in many parts, still in good
+preservation. It was erected in the reign of Henry VII. and does not
+therefore boast of great antiquity; many additions were made to it about
+the time of Elizabeth, these constitute, the most elegant parts of this
+superb pile, and are to be found in the windows of the grand hall, or
+banqueting room; the ornaments of the frieze and cornice are light and
+elegant, and in the best taste of that time. To the left of this hall,
+was a large court one hundred feet long, and sixty feet broad, well
+arched and ornamented, with curious stone work both on the walls and
+windows. In the midst of the court was a pleasant marble fountain called
+the White Horse: the following remark of Dr. Griffin, relative to the
+white horse may not prove uninteresting. “I remember,” says he, “some
+years ago, they used to shew here part of the body of a black horse,
+which stood in the middle of some water that supplied the castle, and
+was a fountain. I was told the parliamentarians poisoned the water
+during the siege, and that the stone horse absorbed the poison; it was
+very hard, but on being struck, or rubbed with any hard substance,
+emitted a very offensive smell. Perhaps I had the legend very
+imperfectly, and it should have been added, the poison turned the white
+horse into a black one.” The castle is surrounded by a wide fosse thirty
+feet broad, wherein was originally placed an artificial water work,
+which spouted up water to the height of the castle, and contains within
+it two acres, one of which appears to have been encompassed with
+domestic offices, such as kitchen, brewhouse, &c. and in which there is
+an oven, and fire range of such extraordinary dimensions, as to satisfy
+us, that there were times in which they were not wholly occupied in
+feats of arms.
+
+In this building every precaution has been used to guard and secure the
+approaches to it; and the utmost magnificence is to be observed in every
+part of the interior, even in the domestic offices. The staircase and
+ascent to the grand apartments are peculiarly noble; and beneath the
+areas which are vaulted, are various subterraneous apartments, and
+extensive cellars of the most excellent workmanship. The citadel, which
+is octagonal, is surrounded by a moat, and stands at a small distance
+from the castle: its principal parts are in a perfect state of
+preservation. This noble castle is in the possession of the Duke of
+Beaufort, whose ancestor, the Marquis of Worcester in the time of
+Charles the first, added and fortified many extensive out works, by
+which he was enabled to hold it for the king’s use till his imprisonment
+at Holmby. It once contained a garrison of eight hundred men, and was
+the last castle that surrendered to the parliament forces, then under
+the command of Sir Thomas Fairfax. This event happened on the nineteenth
+of August 1646, and is reported to have been effected by a female in the
+garrison, and by the use of a very ordinary female engine, the mere
+waving a handkerchief, as a signal for the introduction of Cromwell’s
+party. If this were so, politics were probably by no means the primary
+incentives of this lady’s zeal, and there were doubtless secret articles
+in this treaty, unknown to the besieging general. The window at which
+she appeared is still shewn.
+
+The more probable account is, that from the very long siege it
+sustained, the upper part was undermined, and the timbers being burnt a
+great part of it fell down. Soon after its surrender, the castle was
+demolished and left, in nearly the same state in which it now remains.
+The loss to the family is supposed to be upwards of a hundred thousand
+pounds, besides the forfeiture of an estate of twenty thousand a year.
+Three considerable parks of remarkable fertility, and richly stocked
+with deer, once appertained to this castle.
+
+Returning to Monmouth we resumed our passage down the Wye, on a morning,
+one of the most beautiful ever beheld. The retrospective view of
+Monmouth on passing down, the spire of the church, the town, bridge, and
+surrounding scene, though inferior to that above, yet in some respects
+exhibited a very picturesque landscape. The hills opposite to Monmouth,
+are called the Kemmin Rocks, on the summit of which Mr. Philip Hardwick,
+an architect, has erected a stone building for the reception of his
+friends, called Philip’s Court. This spot commands a view most extensive
+and diversified, and will well repay the labour of climbing up what John
+Bunyan would justly call _Hill Difficulty_. To those who visit this spot
+it may be worth the trouble of going about a mile further to view,
+amongst many others, an immense large rock called the Buck Stone; a name
+probably derived from the deer having sheltered themselves under it when
+the adjacent country was in the form of a park. Its situation is on the
+extreme edge of the hill; and, though of an immense size, it stands on
+an angular point, and is so nicely balanced, as to be with a very small
+degree of force, set in motion and shaken. Approaching the junction of
+the Monnow with the Wye, the side scenes of the river, increase in
+richness both of woody, and verdant scenery, and with such agreeable
+breaks in the distance as to produce an enchanting effect.
+
+A little below this point, a small river called the Trothe, or Trothey,
+unites itself with our Wye, on whose banks they jointly pass, near a
+respectable mansion called Troy house, in the possession of the Duke of
+Beaufort, to whom it descended from Sir Charles Somerset.
+
+Sir Charles was the third son of Edward Earl of Worcester, and married
+the daughter and heiress of Sir William Powell of Troy, by whom he
+acquired a considerable estate, and added much influence to the house of
+Worcester. The present edifice notwithstanding it was designed by Inigo
+Jones, has little that can recommend it to notice. It is used merely as
+a lodge, and is occasionally only occupied by the family. A few
+portraits decorate its walls, but they are not of consequence sufficient
+to take the traveller far out of his way. The cradle wherein Harry of
+Monmouth is reported to have been rocked is here exhibited as a great
+curiosity, but the freshness of its velvet, its nails and appendages,
+bespeak it rather to have been the receptacle of one of the Beaufort
+family in the time of Charles the second.
+
+To those however who are fond of cradles (and in their second childhood,
+amongst our old lady antiquaries, some such there may be) the annexed
+sketch of one, the appearance of which bespeaks it as not unlikely to
+have been of that time, and which is in the possession of the Reverend
+Mr. Ball of Newlands, a few miles from Monmouth, may not prove an
+unacceptable regale.
+
+[Illustration: Black-and-white engraving of a rectangular cradle with
+horizontal banding, set between two fluted columns. A bird perches on
+top of each column. Four round openings appear along the lower front of
+the cradle. The base extends outward on both sides.]
+
+It is made of oak without any covering, and is suspended by two iron
+rings, by which it receives motion on the least touch or action of the
+child; it is three feet long, one foot four deep, and one foot six wide;
+it is ornamented at the top of the supporters, which are octagonal, with
+two birds, resembling eagles, but their beaks are broken off. The
+following anecdote relative to Troy house, extracted from the “Apothegms
+of the Earl of Worcester,” it is presumed will be thought not unworthy a
+place in this work.
+
+“Sir Thomas Somerset, brother to the Marquis of Worcester, had a house
+which was called Troy, five miles from Rhaglan castle. This Sir Thomas
+being a complete gentleman, delighted much in fine gardens and orchards,
+where by the benefit of art, the earth was made so grateful to him at
+the same time, that the king (Charles the first) happened to be at his
+brother’s house, that it yielded him wherewithal to send his brother a
+present; and such an one as (the times and the seasons considered) was
+able to make the king believe, that the sovereign of the planets had now
+changed the poles, and that Wales (the refuse and the outcast of the
+fair garden of England) had fairer and riper fruit than England’s bowels
+had on all her beds. This present, given to the marquis, he would not
+suffer to be presented to the king by any hand but his own. In comes the
+marquis then, at the end of the supper, led by the arm, with a slow
+pace, expressing much Spanish gravity, with a silver dish in each hand,
+filled with rarities; and a little basket on his arm as a reserve, when
+making his obeisance he thus speaks: May it please your Majesty, if the
+four elements could have been robbed to have entertained your Majesty, I
+think I had but done my duty, but I must do as I may. If I had sent to
+Bristol for some good things to entertain your Majesty, that would have
+been no wonder at all. If I had procured from London, some goodness that
+might have been acceptable to your Majesty, that would have been no
+wonder. But here I present you, Sir, (placing his dishes upon the table)
+with that which came not from Lincoln that was, nor London that is, nor
+York that is to be, but from Troy.” Whereupon the king smiled and
+answered the marquis; “Truly my Lord, I have heard that corn grows where
+Troy town stood; but I never thought there had grown any apricots
+before.” Whereupon the marquis replied, “Any thing to please your
+Majesty.” When my lord marquis departed the presence, one told him that
+he would make a very good courtier; remember well, replied the marquis,
+that I said one thing which may give some hopes of me: _Any thing_ to
+please your majesty.
+
+Amidst a rich though hilly scenery, beautiful in its forms and happily
+diversified by a multitude of small farms, that exhibit evident marks of
+improving cultivation in this, yet very improvable, though fertile
+country, we reach Redbrook. Here a considerable manufactory of iron and
+tin gives a new and pleasing variety to the scenery and bustle on our
+river. Some of the iron ore used here comes from Coldford, and other
+places in the neighbourhood of the forest of Dean, but the greater part
+is brought from Lancashire.
+
+About a mile and a half below Redbrook, the Wye receives a further
+supply from a small stream called Whitebrook; about the distance of a
+mile from whence stands St. Briaval’s Castle. It is situated on an
+eminence, and though so near the river, is from the water too indistinct
+an object for the pencil. This is to be regretted, as the woody
+declivities on each side of it are beautiful in their forms, and display
+a scene uncommonly rich and elegant; but on quitting the boat we found a
+nearer view of the castle, well worthy a place in this work, and a
+proper ornament of its subject. The annexed sketch exhibits a north east
+view of the castle, and the remains of the moat that in part surrounded
+it.
+
+The distant Monmouthshire hills form a good termination to the scene,
+while the adjoining church and general face of the landscape presents a
+view, in its style and character, materially varying from any we have
+yet met with. From the remains of this castle it appears to have been a
+place of great strength, and of considerable extent; it was built by
+Miles, Earl of Hereford, in the reign of King Henry I. whose third son
+named Mahel, Camden informs us, was here overtaken by “God’s judgments
+for his rapacious ways, inhuman cruelties, and boundless avarice. For
+being courteously entertained here by Walter de Clifford, the castle
+taking fire, he lost his life by the fall of a stone on his head, from
+the highest tower.” The custody of St. Briaval’s, with the Forest of
+Dean, was granted to John de Monemouth, in the eighteenth year of King
+John. The Earl of Berkeley is the present constable, and the Duke of
+Beaufort, under whose direction the castle is kept in a good state of
+repair, is lord of the manor. The tower in the west front is now used as
+a prison. From hence, the views of the surrounding country are extensive
+and beautiful; and here the meandering of the Wye paints the landscape,
+as in its general course, and spreads richness and fertility in the
+vallies through which it flows. Returning to our boat we passed Big’s
+Weir, near which, on the bank of the Wye, is the seat of General Rooke,
+whose father captured Gibraltar.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  _S. Ireland del._
+
+  _Llandogar._
+]
+
+It is situated in the midst of a rich pasturage, and commands a full
+view of the river, and that interesting variety of moving objects, which
+its busy commerce here presents. Amidst a range of beautiful scenery, we
+pass the pleasant village of Llandogar about a mile below. Here the
+river forms a smooth and glassy bay, through which the white sailed
+vessel is seen constantly gliding, or lying moored on the shore to take
+in her freight. The undulating hills, called the Hudnells, form a
+beautiful back ground to this charming scene, of which the annexed view
+will give a faint idea.
+
+A little below is Cadithil Weir, from whence we dropped pleasantly down
+the stream to another village called Brook’s Weir, which is considered a
+half way distance from Monmouth to Chepstow. At this place the goods
+sent from Monmouth are shipped and conveyed in larger vessels to
+Bristol. The river, in an easy meandering course, soon brought us within
+view of the most picturesque object on its banks, the splendid and very
+elegant ruin of Tintern Abbey,
+
+            “These are fair scenes where if art whilom trod,
+            “Led by the worst of guides fell tyranny,
+            “And with less superstition, we now trace
+            “Her footsteps with delight; and pleas’d revere
+            “What once we should have hated.”
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  _S. Ireland del._
+
+  _Tintern Abbey._
+]
+
+Approaching this sublime and sequestered spot, the enthusiastic lover of
+simplicity in art and nature, the admirer of the picturesque and
+beautiful, the antiquary and the moralist will feel the effect, as it
+were, of enchantment, and become lost almost in a pleasing melancholy.
+The steepy hills, the hanging woods, the rolling stream, the nodding
+ruin, the surviving monuments of fallen grandeur and beauty in decay;
+the constructed space, the stillness and retirement, all conspire to
+impress the mind with awe, and for a moment withdraw from its vain
+pursuit of wealth and power, and abstract it from the world. On this
+remain, a very able writer has remarked, that “were the building ever so
+beautiful, encompassed as it is with shabby houses, it could make no
+appearance from the river.” In this we essentially differ, and present
+the annexed view in support of our opinion. Here every cottage appears
+as it really exists on the spot; and the petty, or if you please paltry
+accompaniments to which he alludes, appear to us so far from diminishing
+the grandeur of the general effect, that they serve rather on the
+contrary as a scale, and give magnitude to the principal object.
+
+The ruined windows, pillars, and mouldings are all of them very elegant
+specimens of the most perfect style of Gothic architecture. That wreck
+and desolation to which the revolution of opinion, the wasteful rapacity
+and tyranny of Henry, had subjected this lovely spot, would have
+presented only marks of violence, and under the pretence of religion,
+the ravaging arm of an unprincipled barbarian. It is to the gentler
+tyranny, the silent and progressive ravages, of time, that we owe many
+of those delicate touches and features of beauty that embellish this
+elegant and interesting ruin. These have contributed to soften down the
+sharper edges of the chissel, and, by blending its variegated tufts of
+moss, and spreading and overhanging with its loose drapery, and many
+tinted greens, the highly wrought ornaments and sculpture of the place,
+have given to the whole a richness and mellowness, far beyond the reach
+of art.
+
+The small gothic Gate at the entrance from the water, was evidently an
+adjunct of the abbey, and the remaining small buildings adjoining,
+formed part of its out-offices. The abbey was founded A. D. 1131, by
+Walter de Clare, for monks of the Cistercian order; and dedicated to
+Saint Mary. About the time of the revolution, here were thirteen
+religious houses, whose estates were estimated according to Dugdale at
+one hundred and ninety-two pounds, one shilling and four pence per
+annum. The site was granted in the twenty-eighth of Henry the VIII. to
+Henry Earl of Worcester, from whom it has descended to the present Duke
+of Beaufort.
+
+On entering this sublime ruin the mind is struck with a reverential and
+religious awe: a sensation which can be no more expressed by words, than
+it can in this full extent be excited by all the graces of Grecian
+proportions, and all the decencies of orthodox worship. The noble
+clustered columns form a beautiful scene in perspective; and, while some
+of the rich Gothic ornaments and pointed arches above, present
+themselves as if magically suspended, and raise an idea of grandeur,
+accompanied, if not with alarm with some degree of surprise, the various
+ruinated fragments of capitals and pillars below, which lie scattered
+indiscriminately and in part overgrown and buried in beds of wild
+flowers and verdant tendrils, create an interesting disorder, and
+suggest ideas, though perhaps of a melancholy tinge, yet so far from a
+distressing nature as to lull the mind to a repose, congenial to the
+general turn of the surrounding scenery.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  _S. Ireland del._
+
+  _Interior of Tintern Abbey._
+]
+
+The smooth and trim manner in which the ground is here kept, is not,
+according to our conception, very much in unison with the assemblage of
+objects around, where brokenness and irregularity are the principal and
+leading features of the place, the tameness and uniformity produced by
+it, are incongruous and out of character.
+
+The western window, although in point of proportion rather too wide for
+its height, is yet a curious specimen of the ancient Gothic, and no
+contemptible study for one who is smitten with a true passion for the
+antique. The roof of the building is entirely fallen in, and with it
+some of the pillars are lost, but their bases still remain above the
+surface of the ground, so as to enable the antiquary, if he has the
+least of the architect about him, very easily to give a ground plot of
+the whole.
+
+In the middle of the nave, the lofty arches which once supported the
+steeple, rise high above the rest; but though they retain their forms,
+they are reduced to a mere ridge of stone.
+
+The neighbouring iron works belonging to Mr. Tanner of Monmouth, will
+afford a different scene, and should be visited by every traveller. Here
+the quiet and repose of the cottage is happily contrasted by the
+activity and bustle of the forge.
+
+In passing along the river side to the iron works, many beautiful
+passages in landscape present themselves; they are composed of woody and
+diversified hills, similar to those adjoining to the abbey, but
+heightened by the busy scenes of the labourer and artificer, constantly
+employed in the adjacent manufactory. The iron works are principally
+supplied from Furness in Lancashire with ore, which is dissolved by the
+blasts of immense bellows that are worked by means of cylinder pumps.
+The best qualities of the ore are separated from the dross by a water
+wheel and hammers, by which operation considerable quantities of pure
+metal are collected, and the powder is sold to the glass houses. Various
+forges are here contrived for the purpose of forming the mutilated ore
+into proper sizes, from the largest bar of iron, to the smallest wire.
+
+
+
+
+                               SECTION X.
+
+
+Bending our course down the Wye we pass a promontory, from whence the
+eastern extremity of the abbey presents itself; but here all is flat and
+uninteresting, compared with the scene we have just quitted. In this
+point of view the tottering and solitary pillar, remaining in the centre
+of the great east window, appears to be scarce able to support itself;
+thus circumstanced it is fortunate for the antiquary that very little of
+the fabric depends upon it, or a great part of that venerable structure
+would, ere long, inevitably come to the ground with it.
+
+We were soon deprived of any further view of this elegant remain by a
+strong wind and tide, which quickly hurried us down the stream; but
+scenes like these, on which the mind has long dwelt in pleasing
+meditation, are not easily effaced by a mere change of place: they on
+the contrary are rather cherished by the preceding scenery, by the gloom
+of the rock, the repose of the meadow, and the stillness of the gliding
+stream; nor do they disappear till we mix in the busy hum of men, till
+we plunge into the more tumultuous scene of human life and human
+passions.
+
+Having passed much beautiful scenery nearly of the style and character
+of that which we witnessed about Tintern, here we again discover the
+eastern bank of the Wye screened with rocky substances, not unlike those
+at Cold-well. These substances are called the Thorn, and Black Cliffs.
+The water at this place is much discoloured, and acquires a thick and
+clayey hue, evidently produced by the influx of the tide, which is here
+very visible, and which from the Severn sea, and the low marshy land on
+its shores is so impregnated with mud, and imports it in such quantities
+as to foul the pearly tresses of the Wye, even to a degree of deformity.
+
+                 ——“The torrent flood,
+                 “Thy molten chrystal fills with mud,
+                 “Tho’ thy lofty head be crown’d
+                 “With many a tower and terras round.”
+
+We now approach the rocks that terminate the grounds of Persfield; these
+are tremendous projections hanging over the river, and in their form
+resemble so many bastions of a castle. They are twelve in number, and
+bear the name of the Twelve Apostles; a thirteenth in the same range is
+terminated by a slender stone about five feet in height, which is called
+St. Peter’s Thumb. In this spot we are struck with a wonderful
+reverberation of sound, such as must afford a curious speculation to the
+philosophical inquirer into the nature and properties of air, and that
+conformation of earth and rock and woody accompaniment, which are
+necessary to produce with such continued repercussion, an echo so clear
+and distinct. A little below these rocks a person, some years ago, fell
+unhurt from an immense height into the woods on the margin of the river.
+This almost miraculous interposition on his behalf, wrought very little
+effect upon his life and manners, for so hardened and incapable was he
+of being acted upon, either by the recollection of mercies or the dread
+of punishment, that, having not long after attended the execution of a
+friend for a robbery, he conceived in his mind the plan of a similar
+crime, perpetrated it, and suffered the same fate. So that his rescue
+from a watery grave seems to have served little purpose beyond that of
+verifying the adage, that he, who is destined to the halter, may brave
+the precipice and the flood. A little lower down the river we pass the
+rocks, from the sudden and precipitate fall they present, called the
+Lover’s Leap. Had he not happily been caught by the shrubbery planted
+below, Mr. Morris the former possessor, had here fallen a sacrifice to
+his passion for those simple charms of nature, which he explored and
+dressed with a correspondent taste. He added to their variety without
+lessening their interest. Since that time a professed improver has been
+let in, and the consequence, not the _natural_ consequence, has been
+that with his roller and shears, insipid uniformity has identified the
+ever changeful scene; and the slime of this snail has scarce less
+deformed its dells, its craggy hills, and its groves, than has the mud
+of the Severn that polluted its waters. To prevent any such accident in
+future this gentleman soon after fixed a rail on the edge of the
+precipice. By a steep and unpleasant path, the traveller, from these
+rocks, has sometimes ascended to the grounds of Persfield. A circular
+bend of the river now displayed to our view the noble ruin of Chepstow
+castle. The situation of this venerable building is striking. It is
+built on the summit of an immense perpendicular rock, into which it
+appears rivetted, or rather to be growing out of it; as from the top of
+the battlements, down to the base of the cliff on the margin of the
+river, it is one continued range of precipice.
+
+This majestic remain, is from the present point of view peculiarly
+interesting, and in its effect highly picturesque. The ancient Gothic
+entrance partly in ruin, the irregular breaks and prominencies in the
+general form of the building, which is a mixture of the Norman and Saxon
+style, are in many parts overgrown with large clumps of ivy and
+variegated shrubs, sometimes beautifully clustered among the fragments
+of the castle, and again falling down and enriching the white and awful
+cliff below.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  _S. Ireland Del^t._
+
+  _Chepstow Castle & bridge._
+]
+
+The adjoining bridge from its height, singular construction, and
+relative situation to the castle has a romantic air, and is well
+calculated to give general effect to the landscape.
+
+On the opposite shore, the different forms of the cliffs and rich
+verdure with which they are cloathed, and the masts of the vessels from
+behind the bridge breaking on the eye, complete the scene, and render it
+altogether a happy group of objects for the pencil. This bridge is built
+with timber, and the boards which compose the floor, are so laid as to
+yield to the water and play some inches. It is seventy feet above the
+surface of the river, and is so constructed in consequence of the
+impetuosity of the tide, which, just as it rushes in from the Severn
+sea, being here suddenly confined within a narrow channel, is frequently
+known to have risen forty feet. As it divides the counties of Gloucester
+and Monmouth, it is kept in repair at their joint expence.
+
+According to some accounts, Chepstow castle appears formerly to have
+occupied a considerable space of ground, not less it is presumed than
+five acres. About six hundred years since, it was rebuilt by Gilbert
+Earl of Pembroke, surnamed Strongbow. This Gilbert was second son of
+Gilbert de Clare, from him it came after various grants to Charles
+Somerset, a son of the third Duke of Beaufort, afterwards Earl of
+Worcester, and from him it descended to the present duke.
+
+The premises have been for many years under a lease for lives, the last
+of which is at present in 1794, an aged woman who shews the castle in
+which she was born. Amongst the several buildings still remaining, the
+chapel demands attention, it is spacious and has been much ornamented.
+Twelve large niches with semicircular arches over them, are formed in
+the walls. They have seats which are chair high above the floor. The
+uses to which they were appropriated is not clearly ascertained. The
+grand entrance on the east side, is a noble and venerable remain of the
+Norman stile of building, it stands between two lofty towers, and is in
+a good state of preservation. Much of the Roman wall, in the north west
+angle of the chapel, appears in the courses of bricks between the stone
+facings.
+
+In the civil dissentions of the last century, this castle was considered
+of great importance to both parties, and a garrison was continued here
+after the restoration. A spacious apartment is still shewn in which
+Henry Martin, one of the king’s judges, was confined a sole prisoner for
+twenty seven years.
+
+The life of this remarkable man was spared, he having surrendered
+himself conformable to the proclamation issued, when that event took
+place. His estates in Berkshire, which were considerable, were
+sequestered, and here he resided till 1680, when according to Anthony
+Wood, he died suddenly while at dinner, at the age of 78. He was buried
+in Chepstow church, and on his tomb stone were engraved the following
+lines. As they are now obliterated and are said to have been written by
+himself, they may be thought worth preserving. The Epitaph is an
+Acrostic.
+
+                       HERE, SEPTEMBER THE NINTH,
+                               WAS BURIED
+                           A TRUE ENGLISHMAN,
+
+              Who in Berkshire, was well known
+              To love his country’s freedom ’bove his own;
+              But being immured full twenty year,
+              Had time to write as doth appear.
+
+                              HIS EPITAPH.
+
+           H ere or elsewhere, (all’s one to you), to me
+           E arth, air, or water, gripes my ghostly dust,
+           N one knows how soon to be by fire set free:
+           R eader if you an oft try’d rule will trust,
+           Y ou’ll gladly do and fuller what you must.
+
+           M y time was spent in serving you, and you
+           A nd death’s my pay, it seems, and welcome too,
+           R evenge destroying but itself, while I,
+           T o birds of prey leave my old cage and fly.
+           E xamples preach to the eye: care then, mine says,
+           N ot how you end, but how you spend your days.
+
+Some years after its interment, by order of the then clergyman, the body
+was removed to an obscure situation, that the church might not be
+disgraced by containing the ashes of a regicide. Chepstow parish church,
+formed a part of the old priory belonging to the Benedictine monks
+founded in the reign of King Stephen. Leland says this was a cell to
+Bermondsey abbey, but it does not appear to be so in the First Fruits
+Office; as no rent, or pension by way of acknowledgement, is there
+recorded to that abbey.
+
+The style of building of this church is pure Norman, the arches of the
+nave are circular, which are supported by square massive pillars in a
+very perfect state. The entrance to the west front is in a very fine
+style, of the same architecture, the proportions are just, and the
+pillars and mouldings are richly decorated in the taste of that period.
+As we have quoted one monumental inscription, from this ancient
+receptacle of the dead, we flatter ourselves that we may without making
+an obituary of this work, be permitted to contrast the two following.
+The first was on a sea captain, who died in 1774.
+
+            The blusterous blasts, and Neptune’s waves,
+              Have tost me to, and fro;
+            In spite of all, by God’s decree
+              I harbour here below.
+          Here I am anchor’d with many of our fleet,
+          But we shall sail again, our Admiral Christ to meet.
+
+The following is on John Davis, a jockey of this town, who seems
+determined in his technical phrases to outdo, not only the captain, but
+to distance all that may hereafter be said on the subject.
+
+             ’Tis vain to trust to human strength, or art,
+             When God doth strive, ye will small aid impart
+             As my mishap, ’tho skill’d in riding, shows
+             That the Almighty, horse and rider throws.
+             Be then prepar’d, my friends, since accidents
+             May in an instant hurry you from hence.
+
+From Chepstow by a very pleasant ride we visited the charming grounds of
+Persfield, a spot where nature has been uncommonly profuse, not only in
+the disposition of the beautiful slopes and waving lawns that enrich and
+compose the grounds themselves, but in the extensive and diversified
+scenery that strikes the eye, from every point of view. I have here
+selected from amidst a profusion of magnificent and fascinating objects,
+rarely to be met with in this or any other country, a very extensive
+sketch that includes Chepstow castle, and the town beneath, together
+with the rocky cliffs designed as it were by nature to bound the course
+of the Wye, whose beautiful meandering extends for a distance of three
+miles, and then loses itself in the greater waters of the Severn. Here
+
+                          ——“Pleas’d _Vaga_ pour’d
+          His sea green streams, deep murmuring beneath
+          The hanging bowers and glittering rocks; while wide
+          The rougher Severn stretch’d his arm, bestrew’d
+          With shining sails, to the capacious ocean.”
+
+This enchanting scene is bounded by the Gloucestershire and
+Somersetshire hills, and affords a subject for landscape, more sublime
+and picturesque than the most fertile imagination can conceive. An
+attempt to describe every beautiful object that presents itself within
+the circuit of these grounds, would in the recital be tedious and
+uninteresting, I shall therefore only observe, that the scenery on this
+spot is perpetually diversified, and nature every where rises beyond the
+reach of art. The enclosed view, though I may in my attempt have merited
+the praise of fidelity, will I hear convey but a faint and unimpressive
+idea of that scenery which is adapted only to the talent and pencil of a
+Claude Lorraine.
+
+In contemplating this magnificent and stupendous assemblage of nature
+and art, we are led as it were instinctively to deplore the melancholy
+reverse of fortune, that saddened the last days of the original designer
+and owner of this charming spot; of him whose elegant mind and
+munificent hand could, out of the rude uncultivated mass, project and
+raise to the highest state of perfection a monument of taste, that must
+remain an ornament to his country.
+
+We could not take our leave of Chepstow, without giving a retrospective
+view of the castle, and its tremendous rocky base and distant scenery
+over which we had just passed. The romantic bridge and busy scene on the
+water, all combined to aid the landscape, and to give a further
+illustration of this fascinating place. Chepstow, the grand and central
+port of the commerce of our river, is here finely displayed by the
+throng that lined the wharf, and the grove of trading vessels through
+which we passed. The lofty and high impending screen of rocks, on either
+side the river, rendered our passage down the stream delightful. Amongst
+these the red rocks and Hardwick cliff are peculiarly attractive, in the
+latter many large apertures have been dug that are passable, and extend
+forty, or fifty yards from the entrance, and in the vicinity is a
+remarkable fine well of water, that gives the name of Thornwell to a
+beautiful range of woods, adjoining the termination of Hardwick cliff.
+
+The annexed view of what are called the Red Rocks, will give a general
+idea of the face of the river, in our passage down to the mouth of the
+Wye, where we found the tide uncommonly rapid, and where if the wind is
+brisk, the waters are troublesomely rough.
+
+It is here matter of much regret, that we cannot with fidelity introduce
+the distant Severn, which would have rendered the view more complete. At
+Ewen’s rocks, about a mile below, that noble river breaks extensively on
+the eye, and presents a beautiful scene, but it is altogether an
+inferior one to that before us.
+
+At the conflux of the Wye, or in the vicinity of Beachley, (the old
+passage house) the Severn is seen to greater advantage. The distant
+hills of Gloucestershire and Somersetshire, beautifully intersecting
+each other in varied tints, while intervening objects of castles,
+villages, and mansions of the wealthy and great on the opposite shore,
+richly diversify and compleat the whole. The distance, composed of
+Walton hills about ten miles below, breaks beautifully on the eye, and
+forms a happy termination across King’s-road and the Bristol channel.
+
+From hence the groups of vessels that are constantly moored near the
+mouth of the Bristol Avon, although at a distance of near three miles,
+are perfectly distinguishable. The immense quantity of shipping
+perpetually passing and repassing before the eye, convey a magnificent
+idea, both of that celebrated mart of our country, the city of Bristol,
+and of the extensive commerce of the Severn, a river, memorable and
+sacred almost as the wizard Dee in ancient song; a torrent before the
+grandeur of whose flood, our more beautiful Wye feels diminished and
+submits her humbler and tributary stream, a torrent whose guardian
+spirit we shall at another, and we trust no very distant day hope to
+invoke, and with
+
+            “Shepherds in the festival of peace
+            “Carol her goodness loud in rustic lays,
+            “And throw sweet garland wreaths into her stream
+            “Of pansies, pinks, and gaudy daffodils.
+
+
+                                 FINIS.
+
+------------------------------------------------------------------------
+
+
+
+
+                          TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES
+
+
+ Page           Changed from                      Changed to
+
+   24 not only against every principal not only against every principle
+      of utility to                    of utility to
+
+   87 licence in the twentieth of      licence in the twentieth year of
+      Edward the                       Edward the
+
+   96 in human life, give an interest  in human life, give an interest
+      to this ef-                      to this effusion
+
+  113 of its goal. Built in a lofty    of its gaol. Built in a lofty
+      and healthy spot                 and healthy spot
+
+  113 As our goals increase in         As our gaols increase in
+      magnitude, it is                 magnitude, it is
+
+ ● Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained.
+ ● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_.
+ ● Enclosed blackletter font in =equals=.
+ ● The caret (^) serves as a superscript indicator, applicable to
+     individual characters (like 2^d) and even entire phrases (like
+     1^{st}).
+ ● HTML alt text was added for non-decorative images that lacked
+     captions.
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77598 ***
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+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77598 ***</div>
+
+<div class='tnotes covernote'>
+
+<p class='c000'><strong>Transcriber’s Note:</strong></p>
+
+<p class='c000'>New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to the public domain.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class='c001 figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/half-title.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter ph1'>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c002'>
+    <div>PICTURESQUE VIEWS</div>
+    <div class='c003'>ON THE</div>
+    <div class='c003'>RIVER WYE.</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class='c001 figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/half-title.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/frontis.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic002'>
+<p><i>Course of the <span class='fss'>RIVER WYE</span> from its Source to its junction with the <span class='fss'>SEVERN</span> below Chepstow.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='titlepage'>
+
+<div>
+  <h1 class='c004'><span class='xlarge'>Picturesque Views</span><br> <span class='large'>ON THE</span><br> RIVER WYE,<br> <span class='large'>FROM</span><br> <span class='large'>Its Source at Plinlimmon Hill, to its Junction</span><br> <span class='small'>WITH THE</span><br> <span class='large'><i><em class='gesperrt'>SEVERN</em> below <em class='gesperrt'>CHEPSTOW</em></i>:</span><br> <span class='small'>WITH</span><br> <span class='xlarge'>OBSERVATIONS</span><br> <span class='small'>ON</span><br> <span class='small'>THE PUBLIC BUILDINGS, AND OTHER WORKS OF ART, IN ITS VICINITY:</span></h1>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c001'>
+    <div><span class='large'>BY SAMUEL IRELAND,</span></div>
+    <div class='c003'>AUTHOR OF</div>
+    <div class='c003'><span class='small'>“A Picturesque Tour through Holland, Brabant, and part of France;”</span></div>
+    <div class='c003'>AND,</div>
+    <div class='c003'><span class='small'>Of “Picturesque Views on the Rivers Thames, Medway, Warwickshire Avon,” &#38;c.</span></div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/title.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+  <div class='nf-center'>
+    <div><span class='large'><span class='blackletter'>London:</span></span></div>
+    <div>PUBLISHED BY R. FAULDER, NEW BOND STREET;</div>
+    <div>AND T. EGERTON, WHITEHALL.</div>
+    <div class='c003'>1797.</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_v'>v</span>
+  <h2 class='c005'>PREFACE.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='c001 figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/title.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'>Amongst the numerous rivers with
+which our Island is so richly ornamented
+and fertilized, the Wye, our present subject
+of investigation, though in no very widely
+extended course, and itself only a tributary
+stream, is yet in the production of the sublime,
+of the grand and majestic proudly
+eminent above its fellows. In a course of
+about eighty miles, the utmost distance it
+measures from its source, to its junction
+with the Severn, so various and such an interesting
+picturesque scenery is perhaps no
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_vi'>vi</span>where to be found, either in this or any
+other country.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>Nature and Art have most happily
+combined in opening their richest stores to
+diversify and spread fertility, grandeur and
+beauty over the country through which it
+flows: for its environ is not less highly distinguished
+and dressed by the hand of art
+with castles, abbies, and villas beautifully
+seated on its banks, than it is itself favoured
+by nature, in the striking interchange of
+shoal and flood, wood and rock, meadow
+and precipice. With so much, and in
+so many various ways to allure and interest,
+it was not possible that all its charms could
+have escaped either the penetrating eye of
+Taste and Genius, or the pencil of the inquisitive,
+refined, and systematical Amateur,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_vii'>vii</span>and accordingly many of its most striking
+features have employed the pens and the
+pencils of our Writers and Artists; but they
+have, all of them, been either detached
+views and single objects, or, if more has
+been comprehended in the design of the
+amateur or artist, the execution has been
+partial, imperfect, or foreign to the subject.
+The whole has never been fully exhibited to
+the eye of the lover of the scenes of nature
+faithfully delineated. One ingenious author
+indeed has given observations upon
+the river, and such as have unquestionably
+merited the high commendations they have
+received from the admirers of the picturesque
+and beautiful: and he has accompanied
+his observations with drawings. He
+does not however profess to give exact representations,
+or portraits of the various objects
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_viii'>viii</span>that present themselves, but aims rather
+at exhibiting their general effect on
+the eye, when considered technically, and as
+picturesque forms by the learned and professed
+artist.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>Without interfering therefore with
+the plan of that much admired writer, or
+arrogating to himself superior science or
+knowledge of his subject, the author of
+this work has, in conformity with his original
+intention, selected this river from
+amongst those not yet described, in order to
+complete his history of the principal rivers
+of this country: and, unable as he feels
+himself to render justice to the dignity of
+his subject, he builds his claim to public
+favor, on the fidelity with which he flatters
+himself he has delineated the scenery. He
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_ix'>ix</span>would wish, and it is his aim, that his
+drawings should, like the transparent mirror
+of his stream, truly reflect the landscape
+that exists around, as well as the objects
+that decorate its banks. And, content with
+the simple charms and varieties of nature,
+he cannot prevail upon himself to contemplate
+in every winding of the stream the
+forms of his own idea, the image of his
+own mind and its complicated sameness,
+reflected again, and again; but gives to his
+reader that, which, if he visits the spot,
+he trusts he will find, and, if the spot is
+known to him already, he assures himself
+he will recognize.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The tremendous floods, which, in the
+beginning of the year 1795, subsequent to
+that, in which these drawings were made,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_x'>x</span>having so completely swept away several ancient,
+as well as elegant structures thrown
+across this stream, may perhaps give some
+additional value to the sketches of them here
+introduced. If not elsewhere preserved,
+scarce a vestige of them remains to be resorted
+to by the artist or by the architect,
+whose profession must peculiarly enable him
+to do more justice to the nature of the
+fabric.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The History, and Picturesque Views of
+the River Severn are in great forwardness,
+and will, it is presumed, be ready for publication,
+in Two Volumes, Royal Octavo, in
+the course of next year.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/fp1.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic002'>
+<p><i>S. Ireland del.<sup>t</sup></i><br>  <br>  <i>Source of the Wye, Plinlimmon Hill.</i><br>  <br>  <i>Pub.<sup>d</sup> for S. Ireland, March 1, 1797.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter ph1'>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c002'>
+    <div>Picturesque Views</div>
+    <div class='c003'>ON THE</div>
+    <div class='c003'>RIVER WYE.</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class='c001 figcenter id001'>
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_1'>1</span>
+<img src='images/title.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>“Plinlimmon’s high praise no longer Muse defer;</div>
+      <div class='line'>“What once the Druids told, how great those floods should bee,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“That here (most mightie hill) derive themselves from thee.</div>
+      <div class='line'>“The Bards with furie rapt, the British youth among,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Unto the charming harpe, thy future honor song</div>
+      <div class='line'>“In brave and loftie straines:——”</div>
+      <div class='line in48'><span class='sc'>Drayton.</span></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c005'>SECTION I.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='drop-capa0_0_0 c008'>From a small spring near the summit of
+Plinlimmon Hill, the boundary of the northern
+part of Cardiganshire, our river Wye
+derives its source. Issuing from a spacious
+hollow in this mountain, the water falls in
+a narrow streamlet several hundred yards
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_2'>2</span>nearly perpendicular, till meeting with various
+small currents, it soon presents itself in
+the shape of an immense cataract, rolling
+with astonishing rapidity over the rocky
+prominencies which seem to impede its
+course. The name of this river appears
+anciently to have been a common appellation,
+either for river or water. Camden
+says, that the word gwy or wy signifies
+water, and instances the following names
+which have that termination, as proofs of
+his opinion; viz. Lhugwy, Dowrdwy, Edwy,
+Conwy, Elwy, Towy, Tawy, &#38;c. &#38;c.
+From the same ridge of mountains, within
+two miles of the source of the Wye, the
+rivers Severn and Rydall derive their origin:
+the latter of which empties itself into the
+Irish sea at Aberystwith. The views from
+this huge and dreary hill are wild and extensive
+beyond description; they exhibit
+mountains, rolling as it were, over each
+other, and under the most sublime forms and
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_3'>3</span>beautiful hues, varying and shifting till they
+insensibly lose themselves and melt into the
+horizon. We were peculiarly fortunate in
+having a bright and clear day to view in all
+its grandeur this sublime and picturesque
+scenery; an advantage which an experienced
+guide informed us had scarce ever occurred
+during a course of many years in those airy
+regions, where it was almost invariably his
+fate to encounter a heavy and hazy atmosphere,
+commonly attended with rain. On
+this lofty mountain the famous Owen Glyndwr,
+in the summer of 1401, posted himself,
+says the historian, “with great policy
+at the head of a hundred and twenty men
+of arms.” The situation of Plinlimmon
+Hill being on the limits of Cardiganshire and
+Montgomeryshire, was admirably adapted
+for receiving the succours of his vassals and
+friends from every part of the principality.
+From this fastness his adherents, who were
+the terror of all that opposed him, were perpetually
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_4'>4</span>making excursions, and plundering
+the neighbouring counties; amongst which
+Montgomeryshire appears to have been the
+greatest sufferer.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The birth of this renowned hero, of
+Wales, which happened on the 28th of
+May, 1354, appears by Hollingshed and
+others, to have been marked with strange
+presages of celebrity: he says, that his cruelty
+was foretold at his nativity, by the
+wonderful circumstance of “his father’s
+horses being found standing that night in
+the stable up to their bellies in blood;”
+and Shakspeare, in the following lines, put
+into the mouth of Glyndwr, thus describes
+the vain glorious chieftain,</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>————————————“At my birth</div>
+      <div class='line'>“The front of Heav’n was full of fiery shapes;</div>
+      <div class='line'>“The goats ran from the mountains, and the herds</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Were strangely clamorous in the frighted fields:</div>
+      <div class='line'>“These signs have marked me extraordinary,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“And all the courses of my life do shew,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“I am not in the roll of common men.”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'><span class='pageno' id='Page_5'>5</span>A still more extraordinary circumstance
+is attached to the history of this Welch
+phenomenon. Jolo Goch, a celebrated bard,
+has not hesitated to consider the great event
+of his birth, as equal in importance to mankind
+with that of Jesus Christ.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The river Wye, in this its earliest stage,
+is peculiarly marked with features of the
+grand and sublime: its amazing rapidity is
+perpetually interrupted by immense large
+stones and rocky substances, and the rush of
+its waters produces a solemn noise, that
+seems as if they were</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>“Chiding the stones that stopp’d their course.”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'>The spots of verdure and broken ground
+in the vicinity of this rude scene, the dark
+shades of rock, and beetling brows of the
+hills with which it is bounded on either side,
+form a spectacle as majestic and awful as
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_6'>6</span>the untaught imagination can paint, or that
+can present itself to the eye throughout
+the range of this island.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>It is simple nature in her purest and
+grandest form, and without a trace of her
+handmaid art, without either castle, church,
+or ruin: objects that more than form the
+beautiful in picture, that are essentially necessary,
+and can alone give dignity to the
+feeble works of man; without these the
+scenery is here complete.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>For several miles the country wears
+nearly the same aspect; one continued undulating
+line of hills forms the distance;
+and the river, though of no considerable
+width, continues gently to roll over its
+rocky and gravelly bed, “making sweet
+music with the enamelled stones;”</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>“Giving a gentle kiss to every sedge</div>
+      <div class='line'>“He overtaketh in his pilgrimage.”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'><span class='pageno' id='Page_7'>7</span>At a distance of about six miles from
+its source, in a village called Cumergar, the
+Wye receives a considerable body of water
+from the river Castal. This River is full in
+view, and forms a beautiful object from the
+road, on the way to what is called the Devil’s
+Bridge. At Cumergar is a wooden bridge
+called Pont-rhyd Gallad: it is the first that
+is thrown across this river, and the scenery
+around it is extensive and beautiful. The
+Wye here loses much of its impetuosity and
+consequently of its grandeur: its rocky bed
+is softened and in many places spread with a
+mere gravelly substance, and at this summer
+season is considerably narrowed, and frequently
+left perfectly dry. From the continual
+accession, however, of springs and
+rills, that issue from the neighbouring mountains,
+it is not known to remain long in
+that state. From hence, on an easy ascent,
+a tolerable road leading to Llanidlos runs parallel
+with the stream, and affords a beautiful
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_8'>8</span>ride till we approach the wretched village of
+Llangerig: amongst whose clay cottages
+without chimneys, churlish boors, and sour
+milk and black bread, the only refreshment
+it supplied, our weary spirits were
+filled with rapture at the beauties of that
+situation, to which extreme penury, savage
+nature, or insensibility could alone be indifferent:
+They were so impressive, that
+within a mile of this village we determined
+to stop, flattering ourselves with the hope
+that by the aid of the pencil, we might be
+enabled to give the characteristic features of
+a country, which we utterly despair by any
+powers of language that we could command
+in any adequate manner to communicate.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>About three miles below Llangerig, in a
+southern direction, the river Darnel, which
+derives its source from the hills that bear its
+name, empties itself into the Wye. Pursuing
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_9'>9</span>the course of the river, the Nanerth
+rocks in an extent of near three miles, form
+a beautiful screen to its northern bank.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>On this spot the Wye, in an easy bend,
+gently rolls over its rugged bed, while the ascending
+road, girting the immense hills that
+are enriched with spreading oaks and luxuriant
+underwood, peculiarly invited the pencil:
+Through these, the rocks in various
+fantastic forms, perpetually break upon the
+eye, and the cottages interspersed among the
+distant hills, relieve the wide-spread and extended
+scenery. On the brow of a rising
+hill, in the fore ground, a group of cattle
+which covered it, seemed at the instant, as
+if placed there by design to complete the
+view. Beneath, the gentle river Marteg, the
+receptacle of many smaller streams that arise
+in the vicinity of Llanidlos, rippling over its
+pebbly bed, loses its name and its current in
+the broader channel of the Wye.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_11'>11</span>
+  <h2 class='c005'>SECTION II.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='drop-capa0_0_0 c008'>From Nanerth rocks, after a pleasant
+ride of about three miles on the bank of the
+Wye, we reached Rhaidr Gwy; the word
+Rhaidr signifies a cataract, or fall of water,
+and is frequently applied to those falls,
+among the mountains of Snowden in Carnarvonshire.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>Camden seems to think that from the
+word Rhaidr, the county of Radnor, through
+the west angle of which, this river directs
+its course derived its name. The bridge at
+Rhaidr consists of one wide arch, which from
+its base forms a very large segment of a circle.
+It is a plain structure and has little but
+its romantic accompaniments to recommend
+it; the immense pile of rocks on which it
+is elevated, carries the arch so high as to
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_12'>12</span>afford from beneath it, an extensive prospect
+of the adjoining country, in which a small
+Welsh building called Cwmtather Church
+appears in a whimsical point of view. The
+annexed sketch was taken from below the
+bridge, where the combination of objects is
+wonderfully grand; and in this dry season,
+displays in full force the ponderous rocky
+substances of which it is composed. But in
+consequence of this drought, we had the
+misfortune to lose the display and thunder
+of its cataract, which a less friendly state
+of the elements would have exhibited in all
+its grandeur. The stones over which the
+waters in this vicinity roll, are of an immense
+size, and in their forms, partake both of the
+majestic, and the grotesque; their diversified
+hues, and vast angular prominencies afford
+in certain lights and in some seasons of the
+day, under the rays of a bright sun the most
+brilliant and picturesque effect. Over the
+bridge passes the high road that leads to Aberystwith,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_13'>13</span>and a more rugged and dreary path,
+is perhaps scarce to be trod in any of the frequented
+parts of this principality. Rhaidr,
+though now but a miserable place, derived
+formerly some consequence from its castle,
+which was advantageously situated in a nook
+of the river not far from the bridge, but
+of which no trace at present remains. Near
+the spot whereon the castle stood is a deep
+trench cut out of a solid rock, and not far
+distant, are several large Tumuli, or Barrows,
+called in Welsh, Kern, and Keido.
+These are conjectured to have been raised as
+memorials of the dead. Camden confirms
+this idea, and observes, not very consistently
+indeed with the respect due to the memory
+of the departed, “that it is still the
+custom to cast heaps of stones on the
+graves of malefactors and self murderers.”</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>At what period the castle at Rhaidr was
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_14'>14</span>built is not ascertained, but it was repaired
+by Rhys Prince of South Wales in the reign
+of Richard the first, and near it says Camden,
+“is a vast wilderness rendered very
+dismal by many crooked ways and high
+mountains, into which as a proper place
+of refuge, that bane of his native country,
+King Vortigern, whose very memory the
+Britons curse, withdrew himself, when he
+had at last repented of his abominable
+wickedness, in calling in the English
+Saxons, and incestuously marrying his own
+daughter.”</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>His address to the Barons, on the subject
+of calling in the aid of the Saxons, is
+thus recorded by an anonymous author.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>“My Lords, vain compliment would suit but ill</div>
+      <div class='line'>“The present time, I therefore briefly thank you,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“But e’er we part, fain would I crave your hearing.</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Our Troops have now been long disus’d to War—</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Yet do not think I mean their fame to tarnish,</div>
+      <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_15'>15</span>“Or on a Briton throw the damned slur</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Of shameful cowardice. No, my good Lords,—</div>
+      <div class='line'>“But though their ribs do serve as castle walls,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“And fast imprison their strong Lion hearts,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Yet e’en the Lion, when full gorg’d with food</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Will bask and tamely lay him down to sleep—</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Then in such sort, hath undisturbed peace,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“And want of custom, (nature’s substitute,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“That changes e’en our very properties)</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Soften’d their manhood. Then t’were policy</div>
+      <div class='line'>“That we should court the Saxons to our aid!</div>
+      <div class='line'>“This too will in our Britons raise the flame</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Of bright and generous emulation.</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Say Lords! doth this my proposition please you?</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'>Below Rhaidr we soon lost sight of that
+immense rocky scenery, so eminently characterizing
+its neighborhood, and every reach
+of the river yielded additional richness and
+verdure. A detail of each minute change
+of prospect that occurs in a tour of this
+nature, however gratifying at the moment
+to the eye of the curious and picturesque
+traveller, would be tedious and uninteresting;
+it is therefore the business of description
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_16'>16</span>to record only the most material objects
+as they occur, and leave imagination
+to paint the rest. About three miles below
+Rhaidr, the Wye receives a considerable
+supply of water from the rivers Eland and
+Clanven, which unite at a distance of about
+four miles from their conflux with our river.
+Below this a copious stream called the
+Ither, which in its course receives the Dulas
+and Comar, makes a considerable addition to
+the waters of the Wye. From the brow of
+a hill about two miles before we reach the
+town of Builth, the scenery is peculiarly
+beautiful, the river spreads itself into a bay,
+and the immense rocky substances with
+which its bed has hitherto been spread, rise
+here in various detached forms many yards
+above its surface, exhibiting so many small
+islands, and agreeable breaks in the fore
+ground of the landscape.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The annexed view was sketched from
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_17'>17</span>this spot, in which it is much to be regretted
+that the bridge of Builth could not be
+introduced, as it would considerably have
+added to the beauty of the scenery. Builth
+is a town of little consequence, yet from its
+antiquity, and the salubrity of its air, it becomes
+highly deserving our attention. We
+happened to be there on a market day, when
+the town was so thronged with people, that
+we could scarcely pass through it. It resembled
+rather a fair than a market, and the
+immense croud collected together, presented
+to the eye a scene in effect, similar to that of
+one continued mass of long blue cloaks,
+apparently in perpetual motion. Not a
+house, nor a stable but was occupied, and it
+was really a matter of astonishment, that in
+so small a town, and on so common an occasion
+as that of a weekly market, such a
+vast concourse of people should have been
+assembled; but a market or fair, is the pride
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_18'>18</span>and glory of the Welsh; and, happy souls!
+why should they not in a sultry summer’s
+day, enjoy the suffocating luxury of a long
+blue cloak, as well as the Londoner his
+summer theatre, amidst “the raging dog
+star’s heat.”</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>In an extensive tour through Wales, I
+witnessed a scene at Aberystwith very similar
+to that I have just described, and as the surrounding
+objects were there more peculiarly
+marked with the picturesque than those
+at Builth, a representation of the scene,
+although at a considerable distance from
+hence, may perhaps not prove unacceptable
+to the reader. In this view appears part of
+the castellated dwelling of Uvedale Price,
+Esq.; a man not less distinguished for the
+elegance with which he cultivates the fine
+arts, than for his powers of discrimination,
+and the accuracy with which he defines them.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_19'>19</span>The house is recently erected on the shore,
+and commands an extensive prospect of
+the sea, the only one in fact it does command.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>At this market or fair, the usual artifices
+to amuse and delude, were exhibited
+with the usual success; other centuries
+revolve, and other generations arise, but
+rustic manners remain unchanged, the
+same pursuits occupy the mind, and the
+same toys interest and beguile. There were,
+“Ribbands of all the colors ith’ rainbow.
+Dancing and music, ballads all pitiful
+and true, one of a fish that appeared
+upon the coast, on Wednesday the
+of April, forty thousand fadom
+above water.” Autolicus with all his
+rhetoric could not more artfully have displayed
+his wares, nor could the following
+lines have had a better effect on his auditors
+than the tricks presented here.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_20'>20</span>“Lawn as white as driven snow,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Cyprus, black as e’er was crow;</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Gloves as sweet as damask roses,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Masks for faces, and for noses;</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Bugle bracelets, necklace amber,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Perfume for a lady’s chamber;</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Golden quoifs, and stomachers,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“For my lads to give their dears;</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Pins and poking-sticks of steel,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“What maids lack from head to heel:</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Come, buy of me, come: come, buy, come, buy,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Buy, lads, or else your lasses cry: come buy.”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'>Builth is happily encompassed with a
+range of hills that afford shelter to the place,
+and screen the neighbouring woods with
+which it is enriched. On the skirt of the
+town stand the remains of an ancient castle;
+they comprise near four acres of ground,
+and though not sufficiently massed to form
+an object for the pencil, yet the remaining
+fragments convey a general idea of its former
+dignity.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The eminence which is contiguous to
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_21'>21</span>the remains of the fortress, denotes what the
+Romans called the Presidium. This castle is
+reported to have been erected by the Breoses
+and Mortimers, after the demolition of a
+former one by Rhys ap Gryffydh. Ptolomy
+calls the town of Builth, Bullæum Silurum,
+from whence it derived its name, but Doctor
+Horsely is inclined to think that the ancient
+Bullæum of Antoninus, was at Uske in
+Monmouthshire, from the ruins of a
+Roman fort, or city, being found there.
+The neighbourhood of that place is still
+called Bualht.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>Traversing the vicinity of the castle,
+our Welsh guide pointed out to us a field
+at about two miles distance, called Cavan, in
+which Prince Llewellyn is reported to have
+been buried, and so fertile he observed was
+the soil, that each stem bore two heads of
+corn.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_22'>22</span>From the same authority, we are told that
+as that Prince was one day crossing the field
+in disguise, he asked of an old woman the
+name of a small brook that ran across it,
+who replied, it was called Nantytrrad,
+then said he, let it in future be named
+Cwm Llewellyn, for that shall be the burial
+place of that Prince. Where is there a
+Welchmen who does not deplore the loss of
+his brave Llewellyn? but our guide drew
+much consolation from there being yet a
+good Prince of Wales, who in the hour of
+need, would certainly defend and fight for
+his countrymen. Llewellyn is reported to
+have been murthered in a small castle that
+stood at a place called Llechryd, about
+one mile from Builth, while he was meditating
+his escape into Glamorganshire. A
+modern house, with a moat surrounding it
+that includes about three acres, marks the
+spot whereon the castle stood. Builth Castle
+is well situated for defence, it stands on an
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_23'>23</span>eminence, and the point of land, is in part
+surrounded by the beautiful river Irvon,
+which in a semicircular direction winds its
+course into the Wye, about half a mile
+above the town. This river is of considerable
+width, and derives its source from
+the hills in the vicinity of Strata Florida
+in the county of Cardigan; thence after
+taking a south west direction it winds towards
+the north east, and falls into the Wye
+near Builth. Within a small distance of
+its junction with our river, it receives a
+brook called the Wevery, which rises on the
+Brecknockshire hills about eight miles
+distant, and produces remarkable high flavoured
+salmon and trout.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>Near to the Wye a new stone bridge is
+building over the Irvon, contiguous to the
+old one which was of wood. This new
+structure consists of six elliptical arches; it
+is erecting at the joint expence of the counties
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_24'>24</span>of Brecon and Radnor. The elevated
+span of the upper circle of this bridge, however
+necessary here from the great floods
+that happen in the winter season, is yet a taste
+too prevalent in the general construction of
+our bridges. The bed of the upper surface
+is usually so high as to become a large
+segment of a circle; this custom militates
+not only against every <a id='t24'></a>principle of utility to
+the horse and traveller, but shuts out the general
+prospect, which even by an artist whose
+ideas are not too narrowly confined to his
+own science, should in a country like this
+be made an object of some consideration.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>In Italy and France, a contrary system
+has very judiciously been adopted, by which
+means, in every point of view the eye finds
+relief from the diversified scenery around.
+This practice is supported by the classical
+productions of the elegant Claude Lorraine,
+who, whether he designs from nature, or has
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_25'>25</span>recourse to his own refined ideas of his art,
+always adheres to this principle. Near Builth
+are the remains of Llandrindod-wells, once in
+high esteem, and celebrated for their excellent
+medicinal quality. This spring of water
+issues out of the side of a rock, which is of
+the slate kind, it is strongly impregnated with
+nitrous salt, sulphur, and steel; and produces
+an effect similar to the waters of Scarborough
+and Cheltenham, but it is of a more powerfully
+quality. The wells are now greatly in
+decay, and consequently are not so much frequented
+as formerly. On a high hill named
+Caven Durris, about a mile from Builth,
+David Thomas, Esq.; has erected a handsome
+stone residence, which when viewed from the
+town, appears too much exposed, but on
+a near approach, is found to be happily
+screened from the northern winds by the surrounding
+hills: It commands a very noble
+and extensive view, as well on its own level
+towards the South, as from that part which
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_26'>26</span>looks down towards the town of Builth, and
+at the same time includes a beautiful command
+of the meandering course of the rivers
+Wye and Irvon, and of the extensive bridge
+of Builth in the vale beneath. This bridge
+is a simple and well constructed modern edifice,
+consisting of six arches, within a mile of
+which a small river called the Dihono having
+a small bridge of one arch thrown over it,
+empties itself into the Wye. From the ferry
+a little below, a beautiful reach of the river
+terminates in a view of the small remains of
+Aberadway castle, of which no history is to
+be traced. Its ruin is very insignificant, little
+more than a stone wall, now over grown with
+ivy remains. At the extremity of it are the
+fragments of two round towers. These
+rude specimens of art, are finely contrasted
+by the adjoining and truly wonderful
+productions of nature. These are an immense
+range of rocks running parallel with
+the river, exhibiting a variety of the most
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_27'>27</span>strange and fantastic forms imaginable. In
+different points of view, they convey to the
+mind, the idea of so many towers and castles
+shouting from amidst the oak coppices and
+other shrubs that enrich this majestic scenery.
+These vast prominencies in their various
+shapes, received at the instant of viewing
+them, additional grandeur and effect
+from the solemn shade, produced by a declining
+sun, and presented a scene truly worthy
+the pencil of a Salvator, or amongst our
+countrymen, his rival, the late John Mortimer.
+Near this charming spot, the river
+Edwa, from which these rocks derive their
+name, empties itself into our river. For
+a considerable distance in passing down the
+Wye, we have on a smaller scale perpetual
+breaks of the same rocky kind of
+scenery till we reach Llangoed, the seat of
+Mr. Edwards; from hence we ride through
+a charming wood of young oaks, ranged
+for a considerable distance on an elevated
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_28'>28</span>bank of the Wye, they give at each break
+and opening, an enchanting view of our
+beautiful and picturesque river, which on
+the approach to a village called Swains,
+about a mile distant, wears the appearance
+of an extensive bay, while the mountains in
+the back ground gradually recede, and the
+general face of the landscape assumes a new
+character. In the annexed view of Glasebury,
+the scene when contrasted with that
+at Aberedway or at Builth, will best illustrate
+this idea, here all around wears an
+air of placidity; the river’s rocky bed no
+more agitates the water in its course, it flows
+a tranquil and a gentle stream, reflected on
+whose glassy surface under the evening’s
+lengthening shade</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>“Down bend its banks, the trees depending grow;</div>
+      <div class='line'>“And skies beneath with answ’ring colors glow.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'>In the midst of this rich and beautiful
+valley, an elegant stone bridge of seven
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_29'>29</span>arches is thrown across the river. It was
+built about fourteen years ago by the family
+of Edwards, under the direction of their
+father, the celebrated architect of Pont-y-pridd.
+The adjoining view was made in
+August, 1794; in the ensuing winter the
+bridge was totally destroyed, which will in some degree give value to this sketch,
+as a memorial of that which is at present,
+little more than a wreck; every arch of
+it having been blown up by the torrent
+of ice, which poured down on the very sudden
+thaw, after the long frost in the beginning
+of 1795.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_31'>31</span>
+  <h2 class='c005'>SECTION III.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='drop-capa0_0_0 c008'>On our approach to the town of Hay,
+we pass its small church, situated on a high
+and clayey bank of the river, from whence
+the town and adjoining objects, afford little
+worthy the attention of the artist. To preface
+this section, I have therefore selected a
+general view of the town and surrounding
+country, from a spot about a mile below the
+bridge, which presents a scene highly enriched
+by an assemblage of woods, meadows,
+and corn fields, at once extensive, and in a
+peculiar degree interesting.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The town is happily situated on the
+declivity of a hill, on which the houses rising
+gradually, convey the idea of a place of infinitely
+more consequence than really it possesses,
+and in no small degree gives the general
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_32'>32</span>outline of an Italian landscape. The
+face of this scenery and bridge is fully illustrative
+of the position laid down in the last
+section, of the superior beauty of flat bridges
+over those that are elevated. This bridge
+is formed of seven arches and in the year
+1795, met with a similar fate to the preceding
+one, and which were thrown across
+the torrents that pour themselves along the
+vallies of this mountainous country.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The purple hue of the distance called
+the black mountains, affords a good background
+to this scenery, which is heightened
+by the rich glow of a noon-tide sun, darting
+at the instant, and giving force and relief
+to every object. These mountains extend
+fourteen or fifteen miles towards a
+place called Monmouth Cap, about eight
+miles from Abergavenny. The head of
+water in the fore ground of the view, is
+formed from a small river called Boonewayne
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_33'>33</span>Brook, which supplies the neighbouring mill
+with water; the goat who stood browsing
+on a high bank of the river before us, was
+an object we were not accustomed to meet
+with even in Wales, as I do not remember
+to have seen more than three, in the course
+of a long tour through this country.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The town of Hay was formerly called
+Hain, it derives its name from the British
+word Tregelhi, which, says Camden “may
+be rendered Hasely, or Hasleton; it appears
+to have been well known to the
+Romans, some remains of their walls
+being still visible, and many of their coins
+having been found here.” He likewise
+says “the ancient town was consumed
+by fire by the profligate rebel, Owen
+Glyndwr or Glendower, in his marches
+through this country.” Our divine bard
+has put the following lines into the mouth
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_34'>34</span>of Glendower, when speaking of his antagonist.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>“Three times hath <i>Henry Bolingbroke</i> made head</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Against my pow’r, thrice from the banks of <i>Wye</i>,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“And sandy-bottom’d <i>Severn</i>, have I sent</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Him bootless home, and weather-beaten back.”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'>This place anciently belonged to William
+de Brus, Lord of Brecknock, and was
+nearly destroyed by Lewis, Dauphin of
+France, in 1216, who had been invited into
+England by the Barons disaffected to King
+John.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The town of Hay is situated on the extreme
+angle of Brecknockshire, and on the
+borders of Herefordshire. Near the church,
+on the highest land on the brink of the river,
+there anciently stood a castle built by
+the Normans, of which little more now
+remains than a mound of earth, and the entrenchments
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_35'>35</span>that surround it. The present
+castle stands nearly in the centre of the
+town. Its Gothic entrance, and the Ivy
+over-growing the remains of the ancient
+tower, produce a striking effect on the approach
+to this venerable ruin.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>A large house adjoining, is the property
+of Richard Wellington, Esq.; It is
+erected on the site of the old castle, and appears
+to have been the work of the age of
+James I. Within a few years, it has been
+modernized, by which it has in some degree
+been stripped of that small share of the picturesque,
+that in some instances is to be
+found even in that barbarous age of architecture.
+As the castle is not generally noticed
+by the traveller, nor has any print that
+I can learn, ever yet been given of it, the
+annexed view may not prove unacceptable to
+the curious enquirer. On quitting Hay,
+the Wye receives a considerable body of
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_36'>36</span>water from the river Dulas, across which is
+a stone bridge of one arch. Thus assisted,
+our river becomes a copious stream, and has
+been long rendered navigable in the winter
+seasons. For this purpose two statutes
+were passed in parliament, the one in the
+fourteenth of Charles II. the other in the
+seventh of William III.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>About two miles below the town, the
+ruin of the once famous Clifford castle presents
+itself; it stands on a considerable eminence
+on the bank of the Wye, is well situated
+for defence, and forms a boundary to
+the western part of the county of Hereford.
+Its walls are not sufficiently high, nor are
+the parts so broken and irregular as to afford
+a complete picturesque object, but it has yet
+considerable attractions to merit the notice
+of the speculative and inquisitive traveller.
+Camden says, that it is recorded in doom’s-day
+book, to have been built by William
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_37'>37</span>Fitzosborn, Earl of Hereford. It came afterwards
+to Walter, the son of Richard de
+Ponts, a Norman, who came into England
+with William the Conqueror. Walter took
+his name of De Clifford from this castle, and
+from him descended the illustrious family
+of the earls of Cumberland. We shall not
+enter into a detail of the warlike exploits
+performed in this place, but confine ourselves
+to the well known story of fair Rosamond,
+daughter of an earl of Clifford,
+who was born in this castle. The story,
+whether fabulous or true, has been deemed
+not unworthy the attention, both of the
+poet and historian. Master Hollinshead in
+his usual quaintness of style, thus speaks of
+King Henry the second’s incontinence, and
+of his particular attachment to the fair
+Rosamond, “for not contented with the
+use of his wife, he kept many concubines,
+but namely he delighted most in the companie
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_38'>38</span>of a pleasant damosell, whome he
+’cleped the rose of the world, the common
+people named hir <i>Rosamond</i>, for hir passing
+beautie, propernesse of person, and pleasant
+wit, with other amyable qualities,
+being verily a rare and peerelesse peece in
+those days. He made for hir an house
+at Woodstocke in Oxfordshire, like to a
+laberinth, that is to meane, wrought like
+a knot in a garden, called a maze, with
+such turnings and windings in and out,
+that no creature might finde her nor
+come to hir, except he were instructed by
+the king, or such as were secrete with him
+in that matter. But the common report
+of the people is, that the queene finally
+found her out by a silke thread, whiche
+the king had drawne forth of hir chamber
+with his foote, and dealte with hir in such
+sharpe and cruell wise, that she lived not
+long after. She was buried in the Nunrie
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_39'>39</span>of Godstow beside Oxforde, with these
+verses upon hir tumbe.”</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>“<span lang="la">Hic jacet in tumulo, Rosamundi non Rosamunda,</span></div>
+      <div class='line'><span lang="la">“Non redolet sed olet, quæ redolere solet.</span>”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'>We cannot quit this subject, the family
+of the De Cliffords, without adverting to
+another of its noble descendants, George Clifford,
+the third earl of Cumberland, who in
+1525, was advanced to the dignity of an earl.
+The seats of this adventurous and renowned
+warrior, are transmitted to us by various
+historians, and though to many persons they
+may be well known, yet some mention of
+him in this place, may not be thought irrelevant
+to our subject. This nobleman was
+one of the peers who sat in judgment on
+Mary Queen of Scots, and became afterwards
+a great favourite of her cousin Elizabeth.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_40'>40</span>He signalized himself highly at sea
+in various engagements against the Spaniards,
+and behaved with much intrepidity
+during the memorable encounter with the
+invincible Armada. In consequence of his
+gallantry the Queen created him an Admiral,
+and a few years after, a Knight of
+the Garter; he was likewise one of the
+lords sent out with the forces to reduce the
+Earl of Essex. He died in London at
+the Savoy, at the age of forty seven, in
+the year 1605.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>We cannot pass over a striking instance
+of gallantry, in this extraordinary hero, as
+recorded by Mr. Pennant, which appears
+fully to keep pace with his bravery as a
+naval commander. “At an audience,
+which the earl had after one of his
+expeditions, Queen Elizabeth, perhaps
+designedly, dropped one of her gloves.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_41'>41</span>His lordship took it up, and presented it
+to her; upon which she graciously desired
+him to keep it as a mark of her
+esteem. He adorned the glove with diamonds,
+and wore it in the front of his
+high crowned hat on days of tournament.”
+This circumstance is recorded
+in a very curious and rare print of the earl,
+engraved by Robert White, in which the
+glove appears. Another instance of the
+queen’s favor to this earl of Cumberland,
+was, her appointing him her champion in
+her tilting matches, in which exercise he
+excelled all the nobility of his time. His
+magnificent armour worn in this age of chivalry,
+was adorned with roses and fleur de
+lis, and is now preserved at Appleby Castle
+in Westmoreland. He married Margaret,
+third daughter of Francis earl of Bedford,
+by whom he had three children, two sons
+who died young, and a daughter named
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_42'>42</span>Anne, who was successively married to Richard
+earl of Dorset, and to Philip earl of
+Pembroke and Montgomery.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>This lady appears by the following
+letter to have inherited with the family
+estates, all the bravery and spirit of her
+great ancestors. Sir Joseph Williamson,
+when secretary of state to Charles the II.
+wrote to the Countess, wishing to name a
+candidate to her for the borough of Appleby,
+to which she returned the following
+spirited answer “I have been bullied by an
+usurper, I have been neglected by a court,
+but I will not be dictated to by a subject.
+Your man shan’t stand.”</p>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+  <div class='nf-center'>
+    <div>“ANNE, DORSET;</div>
+    <div class='c003'>“Pembroke and Montgomery.”</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_43'>43</span>Dr. Campbell, in his Philosophy of
+Rhetoric, highly commends the expression
+of this letter, he says, “an ordinary spirit
+would have employed as many pages to
+express the same thing, as there are affirmations
+in this short letter.” Of this
+extraordinary lady, Dr. Donne remarked,
+“that in her younger years, she knew well
+how to discourse of all things, from predestination,
+to slea-silk.”</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>From this digression, which we hope will
+not prove uninteresting, we return again to
+the main subject of our enquiry.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The winding and mazy course of the
+Wye in about two miles, brings us to
+Whitney, where, in 1794, the piers and
+part of the arches of a new stone bridge
+were in great forwardness, but in the succeeding
+spring, the whole was swept away
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_44'>44</span>by that hidden thaw and torrent, whose devastations
+we have more than once had occasion
+to notice. In this unfinished state,
+the busy scenery of the various artificers
+at work, a ferry boat perpetually in motion,
+and the distant village church, peeping above
+the hills in the back ground, produced altogether
+a subject well worthy the pencil; but
+from the confined nature of this work, and
+the abundant rich, and luxuriant scenery, we
+have yet to display, we feel it impossible to
+insert every object in picture, however highly
+it may merit our notice in description. Passing
+several beautiful villages, we reach Willersley,
+in the vicinity of which, the extensive
+range of Merbidge Hills afforded us, from
+their summit, a grand and extensive view of
+the surrounding country. Another noble
+object presents itself in this neighbourhood,
+which bears the name of Brobery’s Scar: its
+principal attractions are the bold and majestic
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_45'>45</span>roughnesses of its form, that contrast
+beautifully with the views, more immediately
+upon the eye, on the bank of our river.
+Hence, amidst a profusion of rich and beautiful
+scenery, at a place called Rhydspence,
+the river quits Radnorshire, and glides its
+easy course towards Bradwardin. This town
+stands on an easy ascent on the bank of
+the Wye, and presents itself in a happy point
+of view above the bridge, the northern bank
+of the river rises to a considerable height,
+and is richly cloathed with shrubbery. In
+the annexed view we have aimed at a representation
+of this beautiful and romantic
+scene. The river here acquires a considerable
+width, and though in a dry season,
+has a proportionable depth of water. In
+this vicinity there was formerly a castle, of
+which very little remains. This place gave
+birth, and name to the famous Thomas
+Bradwardin, Archbishop of Canterbury,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_46'>46</span>who, from his variety of knowledge and
+proficiency in the abstruse branches of learning,
+obtained his title of Doctor Profundus.
+Below this village we glided down this deep
+and majestic stream, amidst a rich and fertile
+country, till we reached Mocca’s Court, the
+seat of Sir George Cornwall, Bart. It is pleasantly
+situated on an eminence, on the southern
+bank of the Wye, within a spacious
+park, and commands a full and extensive
+view of the beautiful meanderings of the
+river.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>This place was anciently called Moches,
+and formed a part of the possessions of
+St. Guthlach, in the City of Hereford.
+The ancient house stood below the site of
+the present, which is a modern structure,
+and was in part built from the ruin of
+Bradwardin Castle. In descending towards
+Hereford we passed a variety of elegant
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_47'>47</span>villas, rich in situation, and very happily
+selected as summer residences; amongst these
+Belmont, the seat of Dr. Matthews, is peculiarly
+worthy of attention. The views from
+hence, in each direction of the river, are
+highly attractive, and art and nature under
+the guidance of taste, are happily combined
+to produce a rich and beautiful effect.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_49'>49</span>
+  <h2 class='c005'>SECTION IV.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='drop-capa0_0_0 c008'>This view of the ancient bridge and
+venerable cathedral of Hereford, affords the
+most picturesque, and striking combination
+of objects, that came within our observation.
+The bridge is of stone, and consists of eight
+Gothic arches, it is evidently of great antiquity,
+but at what period it was built, history
+affords little information on which we
+can rely. Leland conjectures that it was
+erected about the same time with the castle,
+that is, soon after the conquest.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The present beautiful cathedral, says
+Camden, “was founded by bishop Reinelm,
+in 1079, in the reign of Henry I. and by
+his successors was enlarged, by adding to it
+a neat college and fine houses for the prebendaries.”
+The Bishop, he likewise says,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_50'>50</span>“has three hundred and two churches in his
+diocese.” The revenues of the bishopric were
+valued, in the 26th of Henry VIII. at eight
+hundred and thirty one pounds fourteen shillings
+and a penny. The present venerable
+structure has undergone many changes, and
+has been greatly encreased and beautified by
+several of its bishops since its first erection,
+a circumstance that naturally followed from
+the immense expense attending such an undertaking,
+which must at any period have
+greatly exceeded the income, even of the
+wealthiest abbot or bishop  that the church
+has yet known. The similarity of parts in
+the style of its architecture, has induced some
+persons to conjecture that it was all built at
+the same period: this I judge could not
+have been the case, there is more reason to
+believe that the earliest forms served as a
+model for future ages to work upon. It has
+undergone shameful depredations: the chief
+of which were occasioned by the puritanical
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_51'>51</span>principles of the last century, when a blind
+zeal upon religious subjects devoted the
+most beautiful and venerable vestiges of antiquity
+to ruin and destruction, as abominations
+hateful in the eyes of God and man.
+The form of the arches seems to indicate
+that the earlier part of this building was
+erected about the æra of the Saxon architecture;
+its columns are peculiarly ponderous
+and massive, they appear to have
+been erected “not for an age, but for all
+time.” Some monuments of their bishops
+still remain, amongst which, in the north
+wing is the shrine of bishop Cantilupe.
+The monument of the family of the Bohuns,
+in the library is curious, and deserves
+the attention of the antiquary: a recumbent
+figure is laying beneath a pointed Gothic
+arch, round which are a number of hogs,
+covered with a kind of body cloth, on
+which are painted the arms of the family,
+each hog having before him an apple to
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_52'>52</span>which he seems smelling. This ancient family
+of the Bohuns and the Lacies earls of
+Hereford, are said by some writers to have
+been the founders of Hereford castle, which
+Leland asserts “to have been one of the
+fairest, largest, and strongest in England.”
+The preceding view of Hereford was made
+in the summer of 1794, at which time the
+tower of the cathedral was surrounded with
+a scaffold, and the whole of the building
+under a thorough repair, from the dreadful
+accident that happened in the year 1786;
+On the 17th day of April in that year,
+about half past six in the evening, the west
+tower of the cathedral with part of the
+body of the church unfortunately fell down.
+The above accident did not happen without
+giving evident signs of gradual decay,
+both from the dropping of many stones,
+and the settling of the arches, which had
+been remarked for two or three years previous
+to the event. This dreadful catastrophe
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_53'>53</span>was sufficiently foreseen to prevent
+any fatal consequences. No lives were
+lost though many persons were passing the
+church yard at the time, and we of this day
+have the less reason to deplore the accident,
+as the rulers of this church, have had the
+good sense to make use of the rare talents of
+an architect, whose knowledge of the Gothic,
+and natural taste for grandeur and simplicity,
+so peculiarly fitted him for the office
+of restoring this venerable fabric to its true
+characteristical dignity, and who does not
+appear to have deviated from the original
+design, where it was possible to conform to it.
+One principal improvement has been the
+removing some walls that encircled a material
+part of the church, by which means
+a view was opened, of two beautiful chapels,
+called Stanbury and Audley, that had
+been long concealed from the public eye.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>Mr. Wyat’s estimate of the repair of
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_54'>54</span>this building was seven thousand pounds, five
+thousand of which was raised by subscription.
+But I am informed that to complete
+this repair, the whole expense will amount to
+at least thirteen thousand pounds.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>This magnificent structure has ever been
+considered by the antiquary, notwithstanding
+its irregularity, as a splendid specimen of the
+piety and munificence of our early churchmen;
+and the arched roof of the upper cross
+aisle, supported by a single pillar, is peculiarly
+deserving attention. Tradition says, it
+was erected in the reign of William Rufus,
+by Robert de Lozinga, second bishop of the
+see of Hereford. The height of the tower
+was one hundred and twenty-five feet, upon
+which was a lofty spire, that has, since the
+accident, been taken down.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>On the site on which this cathedral
+stands there was anciently a church, founded
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_55'>55</span>during the zenith of the Saxon heptarchy
+about the ninth century, soon after which
+it became a cathedral, and Hereford was
+made the see of a bishop. The cathedral
+was destroyed, and the city sacked in the
+reign of Edward the Confessor, by Griffin
+prince of South Wales who made the
+bishop prisoner. At the Norman invasion
+the city was in ruins, and within its walls
+and the suburbs, there were not, according
+to doomsday book, more than one hundred
+and three men.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>At a small distance from the cathedral
+stands the vicar’s college, it forms a square,
+within which is a plain but venerable cloister.
+From its elevated situation, it commands a
+beautiful view of the meandering course of
+our river Wye, and its fertile and verdant
+banks. Although it is not the professed intention
+of this work to enter into a minute
+history of cities, or towns, yet the antiquity
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_56'>56</span>of this venerable place demands our
+attention, and cannot be passed over in
+silence, we shall therefore mention the once
+elegant building of the chapter house, of
+which, though but a small fragment presents
+itself, there is yet sufficient of the
+picturesque to attract the notice of the
+curious traveller, nor can the remains of
+the Black Fryars with its beautiful cross, or
+rather stone pulpit, be passed unnoticed,
+the latter is here preserved in a wood cut
+from a sketch made on the spot in 1794.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i56.jpg' alt='Black-and-white engraving of a small Gothic-style tower with narrow arched openings and a pointed finial on top. A ladder leans against the right side. Dense shrubs and a tall tree surround the base.' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'><span class='pageno' id='Page_57'>57</span>The building is Hexagonal, open at
+every side, and round it is a flight of six
+steps. The shaft of the cross which is broken
+off, rests on a table of the same form
+in the centre of the building, and spreads
+itself towards the roof in ramifications
+that produce a very beautiful effect. Some
+of the embattlements yet remain on the
+upper part of the building, the whole
+of which appears to have been finished
+with great care and elegance. From this
+building, sermons were delivered by the
+fryers, who were then extremely popular,
+to the multitude who were sheltered under
+the cloister, that it is presumed, surrounded
+this building. An hospital in
+1614, was founded on the site whereon
+stood the black fryars, by Sir Thomas
+Coningsby of Hampton Court, in this
+county, who was then proprietor of the
+ruins, and by him it was endowed with
+considerable estates in Leicestershire, and
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_58'>58</span>was intended as a relief to the worn out
+soldier and superannuated faithful servant.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The city of Hereford, appears by its
+remaining walls, to have been well and
+regularly fortified, and its castle must have
+been a very capital fortress. The site
+whereon it stood retains the name of Castle
+Green, and affords a pleasant retreat, commanding
+a very beautiful view of the river
+beneath and of the surrounding country.
+This being a remarkable dry season, barges
+have been laying at Hereford for upwards
+four months, for want of water to carry
+them down.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The principal articles of navigation are
+timber, bark, and grain, and the back carriage,
+is coals from Ledbrook and other
+places below Ross. Hereford is not favourably
+situated for manufactures or commerce.
+It is ill supplied with fuel, and that not
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_59'>59</span>good, and the uncertain state of the river,
+from its shoals and great rapidity, prevents
+that constant and uniform navigation which
+can alone support a regular and extensive
+trade. To remove these barriers, several attempts,
+I am informed, have been made, but
+the estimate of expenses has been so enormous,
+that the measure has always proved
+abortive.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>Quitting Hereford, the Wye bends its
+course round a point of land for a distance
+of near two miles, when we are again
+brought almost as near to the town, as
+when we quitted it. The river as we
+passed down, still continued its circuitous
+windings, but with a more placid surface,
+seldom meeting any obstruction in its
+course, from those rocky substances that
+formed the grand characteristic of the
+stream in its earlier stages. The general
+face of the country is rich in verdure,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_60'>60</span>and the cattle grazing on the banks of
+the river or laving in its stream, are objects
+that perpetually contribute to enliven the
+scene.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>About six miles below Hereford, the
+Wye receives the river Lug, one of the
+three principal rivers in this county; it derives
+its source from the mountains in the
+north east part of Radnorshire, and running
+east, through Herefordshire to Leominster,
+takes a south east direction towards the
+Wye; in its course it is joined by several
+smaller streams, and on its near approach
+to our river, becomes a stream of considerable
+magnitude. About a mile from
+the bank of the Wye, this river runs
+through the pleasant village of Mordiford,
+and adds much to the picturesque scenery of
+the place. On the east end of the church
+of Mordiford is represented in plaster, an
+enormous dragon or serpent, the history of
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_61'>61</span>which is thus recorded. Some centuries ago,
+we know not when, a dragon is reported
+to have been the devourer of all the cattle
+on the adjoining hills called Offwood, and
+was a monster of such terrific qualities, that
+no one could for a great length of time, be
+found bold enough to undertake his destruction,
+till at length a pardon being granted
+to a condemned criminal, on condition
+that he would undertake it, he achieved his
+purpose, by slaying the dragon as he was solacing
+himself in a cyder hogshead. This
+wonderful relation, seems to be generally credited
+by the people in the neighbourhood,
+as no doubt it was at the building of this
+edifice, or this strange monster would not
+have been represented in so terrific a form,
+and in so conspicuous a place as the front of
+the church. After relating this wonderful
+circumstance, may we be permitted to quote
+another, not less so from the learned Camden.
+He says, that “near the conflux of
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_62'>62</span>the Lug and the Wye, eastward, a hill
+which they call Marcley hill, did in the
+year 1575, rouse itself as it were out of
+sleep, and for three days together, shoving
+its prodigious body forward with a horrible
+roaring noise, and overturning every
+thing in its way, raised itself (to the
+great astonishment of the beholders) to a
+higher place; by that kind of earthquake,
+I suppose, which the Naturalists call Brasmatia.”
+On a hill adjoining the village,
+a large stone house has been recently erected
+by a Mr. Hereford, which deserves notice
+from the extensive and beautiful view it
+commands of Hereford and the surrounding
+country.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>About a mile below Mordiford, we
+pass a large brick mansion belonging to the
+Duke of Norfolk, called Holme Lacy, formerly
+the seat of the ancient family of the
+Scudamores. On this site stood an abbey
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_63'>63</span>for Premonstratensian cannons, dedicated to
+the Virgin Mary and Thomas a Becket,
+founded by William Fitzwain in the beginning
+of the reign of Henry the third;
+the house is a flat uninteresting building,
+but comprises within its view a beautiful
+and picturesque prospect on the opposite
+side of the river, called Fownhope. The
+village is situated amidst a rich thicket of
+verdant and woody scenery, on an extensive
+slope rising from a rocky bank of the
+Wye.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>This richly diversified hill, is at a proper
+distance from the eye, to enable it distinctly
+to mark the several species of trees
+of which it is composed; these cannot be
+more aptly described, than in the lines of
+Dyer, on a similar subject, in his charming
+poem of Grongar Hill.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_64'>64</span>“The gloomy pine, the poplar blue,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“The yellow beech, the sable yew,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“The slender fir, that taper grows,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“The sturdy oak, with broad spread boughs.”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'>Amongst the few houses that are scattered
+on this beautiful scene, the principal
+are those of Mr. Lechmere, and Mr. Purchase,
+who has a considerable brewery here.
+A little below the next bend of the river, a
+range of hills called Capler hills, form a rich
+screen to the northern bank of the Wye.
+These hills are upwards of a mile and a half
+in length, and are principally covered with
+oak trees, the soil which is of a reddish
+cast, frequently breaks through the verdure
+of its plantations, and gives a warm and
+animated tinge to the landscape. A high
+road passes the summit of these hills, that
+commands a beautiful prospect of the surrounding
+country, and the meandering river
+beneath. Near Brookhampton on Capler
+hill, is the remain of a very large square
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_65'>65</span>camp called Wobury, it appears to be double
+trenched, but narrow and near half a
+mile in length. About five years ago, near
+three acres of these hills fell into the Wye
+and narrowed its course, but it has from
+that circumstance, obtained a more considerable
+depth than we have before witnessed
+in this river, being now in a dry season, upwards
+of five feet deep.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>On the left of the river, at Aramstone,
+is a fine view of the village of King’s Caple
+situated amidst a beautiful assemblage of
+woods. Below this spot on the opposite
+bank is Harewood, the residence of the Hoskins’s
+an ancient family in the county of
+Hereford. This place is peculiarly worthy
+notice, as it composed part of the forest of
+Harewood, in which Ethelwold, king Edgar’s
+minister had a castle. Here Mason fixed the
+scene, for his dramatic poem of Elfrida, and
+thus he describes the scene before us</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_66'>66</span>“How nobly does this venerable wood,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Gilt with the glories of the orient sun</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Embosom yon fair mansion! the soft air</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Salutes me with most cool and temp’rate breath;</div>
+      <div class='line'>“And as I tread, the flow’r besprinkled lawn</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Sends up a gale of fragrance. I should guess,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“If e’er content deign’d visit mortal clime,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“This was her place of dearest residence.”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'>From hence amidst a rich and woody
+country, admitting from its sameness little
+variety worthy either the pen or pencil, we
+pursued our course down the gentle stream
+till we reached the pleasant village of Selleck;
+its church is of a singular construction,
+and no less so is that of an epitaph I
+copied in the church yard, on the tombstone
+of one Richard Addis who died in
+1788, aged 80.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>“When Christ come riding on the clouds</div>
+      <div class='line'>“To view the world abroad,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Angels and saints crying aloud</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Rise dead and meet the Lord.”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'>On the opposite side of the river, a
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_67'>67</span>little below Harewood, is a fine grove of
+trees called Caple Tump, where an annual
+festival is held from all the neighbouring
+towns, and where</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>“All the village train, from labor free,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Lead up their sports beneath the spreading tree.”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'>About two miles below Selleck, we
+were gratified with the most beautiful and
+luxuriant view of Ross, that I believe the
+country from any point affords.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_69'>69</span>
+  <h2 class='c005'>SECTION V.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='drop-capa0_0_0 c008'>On the approach to Ross, a fine amphitheatre
+of trees called Ashwood skirts the
+southern bank of the Wye. From this
+charming spot, near three miles above Ross,
+the annexed view which comprehends the
+principal objects that compose the beautiful
+in picturesque landscape was sketched.
+The town is situated on the declivity of a
+hill at a happy distance, and not too obtrusive
+on the eye; the rising hills with which
+it is screened give a boldness of character to
+the situation, nor is the winding of the river,
+and verdure of the country that enrich
+its banks, less characteristic of this delightful
+neighbourhood. The hill to the right of
+the town is called the Chase, and that on the
+left, Penyard-wood, on which formerly stood
+a castle, said to have been destroyed in the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_70'>70</span>civil wars. The white spire of Ross
+church “bosomed high in tufted trees”
+has at this distance an effect peculiarly
+pleasing, but on a nearer approach, the
+town obtrudes too much on the eye, and
+the picturesque and beautiful, gradually
+disappear.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>Ross, abstracted from its elevated and
+delightful situation, has little to render it
+worthy attention; the prospect from the
+church yard a spot to which the traveller
+is generally conducted on his arrival, displays
+a very extensive and enchanting landscape
+both above and below the town.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The beautiful and meandering course of
+the river beneath, enriched with pleasure
+boats constantly in motion, in their passage
+to and from Chepstow, gives life and beauty
+to the scene. These boats are lightly constructed
+and are navigated by three men, either
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_71'>71</span>with or without a sail. The heavy
+mass of building called the Town Hall,
+from its general appearance conveys a faint
+idea of the worst style of Saxon architecture;
+it is a ponderous and unmeaning
+heap of stone, huddled together in the
+tasteless reign of James the first, by one
+John Abel who erected a similar building at
+Hereford; they vie with each other in want
+of taste, and have nothing to render them
+worthy notice but their absurdity, which I
+believe is not to be equalled by the dullest
+architect of that or any other period. At
+one end of the building, intended I presume
+as an ornament, there is a noseless bust, supposed
+to be that of the merry monarch
+Charles the second. In such a state of decay
+is the stone of which this edifice is composed,
+together with the heavy style of its
+architecture, that it has every appearance of
+having been erected as far back as the
+time of the Saxons.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'><span class='pageno' id='Page_72'>72</span>Notwithstanding the disadvantage
+under which this building labors, I have
+yet considered the general view of which it
+forms a part as not devoid of interest, it
+comprises the house in which the man of
+Ross resided till his death, now known by
+the sign of the King’s Arm Inn. As every
+the most trifling circumstance relative to a
+character so highly distinguished by the pen
+of Pope, and still more highly dignified by
+the general voice of the people of Ross becomes
+interesting, I have here thought fit
+to give a view of the house in which he
+resided, and the adjoining buildings.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>To the benevolent John Kyrle, a name
+almost lost in the superior title of the
+Good Man of Ross this town owes most
+of its improvements and charitable institutions.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/fp72.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic002'>
+<p><i>S. Ireland del.</i><br>  <br>  <i>Market house &#38;c.</i><br>  <br>  <i>Pub. for S. Ireland Mar. 1, 1797</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'>He was born at Whitehouse, in the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_73'>73</span>parish of Dymock, in the county of Hereford
+in 1637, served the office of sheriff for
+the county in 1683, and died in 1724.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>From an income of only five hundred
+pounds a year, this good man appears to
+have derived every happiness to himself and
+to have diffused it with uncommon benevolence
+to all around him. This exemplary
+character has been so interestingly
+delineated by the pen of Pope, that the introduction
+of the following lines although
+well known, will need no apology for their
+insertion in this work.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Rise honest muse! and sing the <i>Man of Ross</i>:</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Pleas’d Vaga echoes thro’ her winding bounds,</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“And rapid Severn hoarse applause resounds.</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Who hung with woods yon mountain’s sultry brow?</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“From the dry rock, who bade the waters flow?</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Not to the skies in useless columns tost,</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Or in proud falls magnificently lost,</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“But clear, and artless, pouring thro’ the plain</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Health to the sick, and solace to the swain.</div>
+      <div class='line in3'><span class='pageno' id='Page_74'>74</span>“Whose cause-way parts the vale with shady rows?</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Whose seats the weary traveller repose?</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Who taught the heaven directed spire to rise?</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“The <i>Man of Ross</i>, each lisping babe replies.</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Behold the market-place with poor o’erspread!</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“<i>The Man of Ross</i> divides the weekly bread;</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“He feeds yon alms-house, neat, but void of state,</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Where age, and want sit smiling at the gate;</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Him portion’d maids, apprentic’d orphans blest,</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“The young who labor, and the old who rest.</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Is any sick? the <i>Man of Ross</i> relieves,</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Prescribes, attends, the medicine makes, and gives.”</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Is there a variance? enter but his door,</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Balk’d are the courts, and contest is no more.</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Despairing Quacks with curses fled the place,</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“And vile Attorneys, now an useless race.</div>
+    </div>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>B. “Thrice happy man! enabled to pursue</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“What all so wish, but want the power to do!</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Oh say, what sums that gen’rous hand supply?</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“What mines to swell that boundless charity?</div>
+    </div>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>P. “Of debts and taxes, wife and children clear,</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“This man possest—five hundred pounds a year.</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Blush, grandeur, blush! proud courts withdraw your blaze,</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Ye little stars! hide your diminished rays.</div>
+    </div>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>B. “And what? no monument, inscription, stone?</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“His race, his form, his name almost unknown?</div>
+    </div>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>P. “Who builds a church to God, and not to fame,</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Will never mark the marble with his name;</div>
+      <div class='line in3'><span class='pageno' id='Page_75'>75</span>“Go, search it there, where to be born and die,</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Of rich and poor makes all the history;</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Enough that virtue fill’d the space between</div>
+      <div class='line in3'>“Prov’d by the ends of being, to have been.”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'>The allusion of the poet, to a neglect in
+not raising a monument to the good man’s
+name, no longer exists, for in 1776 a neat
+mural tablet was erected to his memory in
+the chancel of the church, by Colonel Money,
+to defray the expence of which, the sum
+of three hundred pounds was bequeathed by
+a Lady Kinnoul, whose property devolving
+to the Colonel, the good intention of the
+lady was by him accomplished. On this
+tablet the following lines are inscribed.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>“This monument was erected in memory
+of Mr. John Kyrle, commonly called
+the Man of Ross.”</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>It is somewhat singular that neither his
+age, nor the time of his death, are here
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_76'>76</span>mentioned. The design for the monument
+was made by a Mr. Marsh of this town,
+who has introduced a bust of the good man
+that bears little resemblance to either of
+the two portraits I met with in Ross; one
+of these is in the possession of Philip Jones
+Esq.; a gentleman, who by marriage with
+a descendant of John Kyrle, enjoys all his
+property, and by his urbanity renders himself
+a worthy representative of that exemplary
+character. This picture appears to be that
+of a person about thirty six years of age,
+and is evidently the work of Sir Peter Lely.
+The other portrait was at the King’s Arms
+Inn, formerly the residence of John Kyrle,
+as described in the view given in this section,
+it represents him at a more advanced period
+of life, and on that account, although ill
+painted, it was preferred to the former as
+he is exhibited nearer the close of a life,
+long and happily spent in the promotion
+of virtue, and to the honor of human
+nature. I flatter myself the annexed etching
+from this picture will not prove unacceptable
+to the admirer and collector of portraits, as
+I do not remember to have ever seen a
+print of this exalted character. The original
+is said to have been sketched from the
+life unknown to Mr. Kyrle, on a Sunday
+whilst he was attending divine service. He
+had often been solicited to sit for his picture,
+but no inducement could prevail on
+him to comply with the request of his
+friends.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/fp76.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic002'>
+<p><i>F. Barlow sculp<sup>t</sup>.</i><br>  <br>  <span class='sc'>John Kyrle</span>,<br>  <br>  <i>Commonly called the Man of Ross</i>.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'><span class='pageno' id='Page_77'>77</span>It is reported of Mr. Kyrle, that his
+ordinary mode of dress, was very plain, and
+so mean as even to suggest the idea of indigence
+and want. And even more unfavourable
+conclusions have been made, from
+his general appearance, for upon no better
+foundation, it is said that when travelling
+in Oxfordshire on horseback, he was apprehended
+near Benson, upon a suspicion of
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_78'>78</span>having committed a robbery in a neighbouring
+county. I need not add that this
+charge was dismissed the instant his name
+was made known to the magistracy.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>We cannot quit this town without noticing
+to the picturesque traveller, a charming
+walk made by Mr. Kyrle, which led to
+what he called his farm, it commands a
+beautiful view of the devious windings of
+the river beneath, and Wilton castle, bridge,
+&#38;c. on the opposite shore.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_79'>79</span>
+  <h2 class='c005'>SECTION VI.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='drop-capa0_0_0 c008'>About a mile below Ross, Wilton
+Castle first attracts our attention. This
+ruin is situated on the margin of the Wye,
+and affords with its surrounding objects in
+many points of view, scenes not unworthy
+the attention of the antiquary or admirer of
+picturesque objects. Its western walls and
+round towers are in the most perfect state
+of preservation, but the annexed view, comprising
+a part of the bridge, is selected as
+most appropriate to the design of this work
+and to exemplify the course of the river.
+The castle has formerly covered a considerable
+extent of ground, the greater part of
+which is now used as a garden. Camden
+says “that king John gave Wilton with
+the castle to Henry Longchamp and that
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_80'>80</span>it came by marriage to William Fitzhugh,
+and not long after, in King Edward
+the first’s time, to Reginald Grey,
+Justice of Chester, from whom by a long
+descent it came to Lord Grey of Wilton,
+whose son Arthur Lord Grey was Lord
+Deputy of Ireland.” This noble person
+merits particular attention, as having been
+the early patron of our Spencer the poet,
+who accompanied him to Ireland as his
+secretary.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>In the county of Cork, at a place called
+Kilcolman, Spencer is reported to have finished
+his excellent poem of the Fairy Queen.
+The River Mulla, so often mentioned by
+him, ran through the grounds of the house
+in which he resided. His gratitude to his
+patron is thus recorded, in a sonnet addressed
+to him, and is prefixed to the poem.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_81'>81</span>“Most noble lord the pillor of my life,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“And patrone of my muses pupillage:</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Through whose large bountie, poured on me rife</div>
+      <div class='line'>“In the first season of my feeble age,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“I nowe doe live bound yours by vassalage;” &#38;c.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'>At what period Wilton Castle went out
+of the family of the Greys is not mentioned,
+but it afterwards belonged to the Lord
+Chandos, from whom it descended to the
+duke of Chandos who built Canons in
+Middlesex. The remains of this castle, with
+Aconbury, Dewfall, and other considerable
+estates in the neighbourhood belonging to
+this family, amounting to near four thousand
+pounds per annum, were sold some
+years ago to the governors of Guy’s Hospital.
+The castle is reported to have been
+principally destroyed by fire, but at what
+period is not ascertained. In support of this
+idea we observed, that towards the ends of
+the timbers, many of them appeared to have
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_82'>82</span>been much burned. On this spot an assemblage
+of rich and woody scenery, forms the
+leading feature of the vicinity of our river,
+and about two miles below Wilton bridge
+I would advise the admirer of the truly
+grand in landscape, to ascend the hill in
+the high road to Monmouth, where at a
+place called Pencreek, the eye is feasted
+with one of the most magnificent views
+this river affords. The distant church of
+Ross, its neighboring woods and hills, and
+the meandering course of the Wye, all combine
+from hence to form this fascinating
+scene. Here the course of the river is peculiarly
+marked, its channel is nobly formed,
+and wears a grandeur not to be met with
+in any other river we have yet seen in this
+country.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>Amidst a variety of enchanting views,
+passing from one bend of the river to another,
+Goodrich castle, on the summit of a
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_83'>83</span>bold promontory, amidst an elegant woodland
+scene, nobly raises its ruined battlements,
+as if frowning on the stream beneath.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>On ascending the hill to contemplate
+the spoils of Time, who ravages alike the
+forms of beauty and the tower of strength,
+by leaving for a moment the ordinary path
+and passing up what is called Conduit hill,
+Walford church, Ross, and the surrounding
+country, at a happy distance, combine to
+form a landscape of peculiar richness and
+beauty. History does not inform us at what
+period this castle was erected, but we find
+that early as the fifth year of the reign
+of King John, William Marshall, Earl of
+Pembroke had a grant of it. From this
+family it came to Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury,
+in the reign of Edward the third, and
+in the twentieth year of Richard the second,
+Sir John Scudamore of Holme Lacy was
+constituted its constable, during the minority
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_84'>84</span>of John Lord Talbot, in whose family
+it continued till the fourteenth of James
+the First; at which period Gilbert Talbot,
+Earl of Shrewsbury died, leaving three
+daughters his coheiresses. Elizabeth the
+second daughter was married to Henry de
+Grey, Earl of Kent, by which marriage he
+became possessor of this manor, which continued
+in the family till the death of Henry
+Duke of Kent in 1740, after which it was
+sold to Thomas Griffin, Esq.; Vice Admiral
+of the White, whose second son, the Reverend
+Dr. Griffin of Hadnock near Monmouth,
+is its present owner.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>This celebrated castle was nearly square,
+covering a space of ground forty eight yards
+by fifty two; it was defended at each angle
+by four large round towers, one of which
+formed an irregular Heptagon. Through a
+perfect Gothic arch, we are led to a spacious
+hall of good proportion overgrown with ivy,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_85'>85</span>adjoining which is an area, presenting the
+remains of a lofty square building, with circular
+arched windows in the Saxon style,
+resembling Gundulph’s tower at Rochester
+castle. By the fragment of a stone staircase,
+we ascend another embattled tower, through
+which at a great depth appears the immense
+fosse, or trench, which is hewn out of a
+solid rock, and is twenty yards in breadth.
+Here was once a draw-bridge and two gates
+with recesses between each, evidently intended
+as places of safety for its guards, who
+unseen might annoy the enemy. The various
+points from which this castle may be
+viewed to advantage, would afford ample
+matter for the antiquary, artist, and military
+architect.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>Quitting this spot, several views of
+the castle presented themselves, but they
+were all undignified and uninteresting when
+compared with those we had before contemplated.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_86'>86</span>The country on the opposite side of
+the river towards the village of Walford, is
+peculiarly beautiful. In the church of Walford,
+one of the aisles is now called Kyrle’s
+chapel; it was erected by that family for
+their private use, before it became a parochial
+church; about a mile below the castle, is a
+small remain of Goodrich priory; a few Gothic
+windows are yet standing, and part of
+the chapel which is now converted to a granary;
+the whole affords an object sufficient
+to attract the notice of the curious.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i86.jpg' alt='Black-and-white engraving of a group of connected buildings with steep gabled roofs, small arched windows, and two crosses at the roof peaks. A set of exterior steps and a small platform stand at the center, with a cart in front. A tall tree rises at the right side.' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'><span class='pageno' id='Page_87'>87</span>This priory was a monastery of the order
+of black cannons regular of St. Augustine,
+founded and endowed with the king’s
+licence in the twentieth <a id='t87'></a>year of Edward the
+fourth, 1347. Its situation corresponds with
+the happy choice usually made by the ancient
+possessors of religious houses, it stands
+in a fertile valley, watered by one of the
+finest rivers in the kingdom. The building
+with the lands contiguous to the castle are
+occupied by a Mr. Bellamy. From the
+ascent, approaching the village of Goodrich
+a rich and extensive view presents
+itself across the forest of Dean, from whence
+Rure-dean church happily breaks upon the
+eye.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>Here the Wye in a long and serpentine
+reach, appears in a perspective point of view
+and affords a pleasing and happy termination
+to the scenery; its banks are screened on the
+south, by an extensive coppice wood, and on
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_88'>88</span>the north, by fertile meadows rising towards
+Bishop’s-wood, from which a considerable
+iron furnace in this vicinity derives its name.
+From the stone quarries in this neighborhood,
+the new bridge at Bristol was principally
+erected.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>Passing down the river, the next object
+that attracts our notice is Courtfield,
+the seat of the Vaughan family.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>This spot is rendered remarkable from
+Henry the fifth having been nursed in the
+neighbourhood. That prince we are told,
+was when young of a weak and sickly habit,
+and was placed under the care of a countess
+of Salisbury, from which circumstance
+in all probability, the original name of this
+place which was Greyfield, was changed to
+the appellation it now bears. We next approach
+Lidbroke colliery and very large and
+extensive wharf, from whence a considerable
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_89'>89</span>commerce in coals is carried on to Ross,
+Hereford and other places. This productive
+mine is the property of Lord Gage. With
+all the dark and dingy attributes of this
+place, involved as it is in smoke, and begirt
+with coal barges, it yet affords a very pleasing
+and interesting landscape. The high
+road that ascends the woody hill, screening
+the back ground of this wharf, is perpetually
+enlivened by horses and carriages
+in this sooty sable commerce, while on the
+bank of the river beneath, the lading and
+unlading the vessels, afford additional business
+and variety to the scene. This view
+is finely contrasted on a sudden bend of the
+river a little below, where all is tranquil and
+serene. The picturesque village of Welch
+Bicknor presents itself in a rich valley on
+the right bank of the Wye, happily overshaded
+by a thicket of woods, ranged in a
+grand and circular sweep. These are called
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_90'>90</span>Hawkwood and Packwood, and extend about
+a mile along the bank of the river. The
+village church and parsonage house, group
+in a form peculiarly beautiful and interesting.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>In the body of the church, fronting the
+reading desk, is a cumbent whole length female
+figure, well sculptured in a darkish coloured
+stone. Traditional report says it represents
+the countess of Salisbury, whom
+we have just mentioned as having nursed
+king Henry the fifth. She holds a child in
+each arm. This effigy is highly worthy of
+notice. The drapery is in a loose and free
+style, and the general contour of the whole
+bespeaks it the work of an artist of talent.
+A little below this scene, the Wye is bounded
+on the opposite shore by a long range of
+hills, beautifully cloathed with verdure, and
+diversified by a rich and broken soil of a
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_91'>91</span>warm and reddish hue, frequently over
+clouded with shades of smoak that issue
+from the various kilns, kept continually
+burning near this spot. These circumstances
+trifling and adventitious as they may
+appear, give relief and effect to the picturesque
+and beautiful in landscape. Approaching
+the foot of Cold-well rocks, a
+scene sublime and majestic presents itself.
+The grand prominencies are overhung with
+richly varied tufts of oak, and other shrubberies,
+occasionally contrasted and relieved
+by deep and shadowy dells, formed by the
+various lime kilns on their surface. Some
+of the most prominent of Cold-well rocks,
+we are informed, have by some gentlemen
+of the bar, in their passage down this
+river, been christened after the names of
+our principal council. The connection is
+not obvious, or readily traced.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'><span class='pageno' id='Page_92'>92</span>Here we quitted the barge to ascend
+these majestic rocks, which by an immense
+and craggy steep, we with difficulty accomplished,
+and reached the summit called Symond’s
+Gate. This task, arduous as it is
+should not deter the traveller from pursuing
+this course, as by means of it he will
+avoid a dull and uninteresting passage on
+the water of full three miles to the new
+Weir, and by passing over these rocks he
+will enjoy a sublimity of scenery that will
+amply repay his toil and labour. As we
+ascend these superb masses of stone, the rich
+and extensive scenery that surrounds us, is
+every moment unfolding itself: the summit
+is richly overgrown with wild thyme, and
+variegated flowers, and is crowned with the
+rich and deep foliage of the noble oak</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>“Here all the air a solemn stillness holds”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c010'>save the distant lowing of cattle, and from
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_93'>93</span>his rocky bed, the dirge like evening song
+of the owl, that floats along the gale.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>From hence Goodrich castle, which
+we imagined we had left far behind, breaks
+suddenly upon the eye, and appears from
+the immense winding of the river to be a
+near object. The new weir, and adjoining
+waterfall, with the surrounding rich and
+healthy hills afford from this spot a combination
+of objects, that deservedly rank
+among the first views on the river, or perhaps
+in this country.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The village of Whitechurch in the centre
+of the vale beneath, with the vast hills
+beyond it, afford a sublime termination to
+this reach of the river.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>At Whitechurch is a second ferry called
+Hunson’s Rope. This ferry although seven
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_94'>94</span>miles distant by water from that of Goodrich,
+is only one mile by land, a striking instance
+of the very appropriate and characteristical
+title of our river, which from its
+mazy and circuitous course, is justly denominated
+the Vaga, or Wye.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_95'>95</span>
+  <h2 class='c005'>SECTION VII.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='drop-capa0_0_0 c008'>Descending towards the new Weir
+by a course not less rugged than that by
+which we ascended, the fatigue we had undergone,
+was amply repaid by the gratification
+we received in some of the most beautiful
+views that can be imagined. These
+presented themselves through the various
+breaks of the rocks, or openings of the surrounding
+woods with which they are enriched.
+The serpentine winding of the
+river, and the vast prominencies and fantastic
+forms of the rocks in its vicinity, give
+an air of solemn gloom and grandeur to the
+scene. From the approach to the Weir,
+the annexed view was selected, it comprises
+all the principal objects that could
+be admitted within the limits of a scale so
+circumscribed. The innumerable circumstances
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_96'>96</span>that aid this grand and sublime
+scene, are such as to render it almost impossible
+for the pencil, to render it justice.
+The iron forges on the opposite side of the
+river, not less from their appearance than
+from the important purposes they answer
+in human life, give an interest to this <a id='t96'></a>effusion
+of nature, while the awful sound of the
+iron hammers beating the fiery mass, awakens
+in the mind new sensations giving
+dignity and grandeur to the subject. This
+picturesque scene is much heightened by
+the immense volumes of sparkling smoak
+that are continually issuing from the forges,
+these give a pleasing though transitory relief
+to the sombre, and distant hills that
+terminate the view. Around these works
+are scattered great masses of half burned
+ore, coal, and cinders, and interspersed on
+the barren and extensive moor in the vicinity,
+are many humble cottages of the various
+workmen employed in the manufactory.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_97'>97</span>The roaring of the waters from the
+cascade of the Weir adjoining to this work
+has a grand effect, its fall is precipitate although
+at no great height, nor is it perceived
+from above the stream.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The river here receives a considerable
+degree of agitation from the huge masses of
+stone, either swept down by the stream, or
+hurled from the summit of the neighbouring
+rocks. Here the Wye increases in
+width, and its current is so strong, that
+it is with extraordinary labour and difficulty
+the barges are towed up. I have seen
+eight or ten men throwing themselves on
+the earth on every pull, to give force to their
+exertions.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>In this part of the river is frequently
+seen a small fishing boat on a singular construction,
+called a corricle, it is ribbed with
+laths or split twigs, and is covered with a
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_98'>98</span>strong pitched canvas, to prevent its leaking,
+it is about five feet and a half long
+and four broad. In the middle is a seat
+that holds one man, who sits with a paddle
+in one hand while he fishes with the other.
+His labour finished, he throws the corricle
+over his shoulder and retires to his home.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>A little below the weir the river scenery
+is terminated by what is called King Arthur’s
+plain, or Doward hills. To the traveller
+who is bold enough to attempt the
+summit of these hills, the views will afford
+ample variety both in the beautiful and sublime.
+Camden conjectures, that on these
+hills there has anciently been a fortification,
+and what makes it more probable is, that
+in digging there for iron ore, and lime
+stone, he says “broad arrow heads have
+been found, and not long ago, the greatest
+part of the bones of a gigantic person
+were found here interred, in a place
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_99'>99</span>“that seemed to be arched over.” Whatever
+may have been the ancient destination
+of this spot, its present attractions proceed
+from the very extensive and richly diversified
+prospects that present themselves from every
+point of view. On a spot adjoining to the
+wood on the extremity of this hill, is a cavern
+that bears the name of King Arthur’s
+Hall; it is said to extend by a
+passage from hence to the new weir, a distance
+of about a mile. Many fabulous
+and romantic tales have been attached to
+the history of this hall, but the fact appears
+to be simply this, that it was a cavern,
+from whence was dug a rich mine of
+iron ore, that supplied the adjoining furnaces.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>A detached cluster of rocks called St.
+Martins’, or the three Sisters, somewhat resembling
+but much inferior to those at Cold-well,
+skirt the river in passing down, near
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_100'>100</span>which at a short reach called St. Martin’s
+Well, the stream is supposed to have a greater
+depth of water than in any other part.
+At the extremity of this reach from a beautiful
+vale, King Arthur’s plain again presents
+itself, assuming a new and castellated form,
+and here every stroak of the oar gives variety
+to the scene, and every object seems to
+vary its situation. The vast assemblage of
+rocks we have just contemplated, appear
+to vanish and melt into a distant hill, rising
+from a craggy base on the margin of
+the river.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>About two miles before we reach Monmouth,
+Hadnock house and the beauties of
+its situation justly demand our attention.
+It is situated on the edge of the forest of
+Dean, and stands on the brow of a hill,
+commanding a fascinating view of the meandering
+Wye, that gently glides beneath its
+rocky hills: these are enriched with verdant
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_101'>101</span>coppice woods that screen this beautiful
+spot, the residence of the Rev. Dr.
+Griffin, whom we have before mentioned.
+From hence along the base of the hills, a
+road running parallel with the river that
+leads on to Monmouth.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_103'>103</span>
+  <h2 class='c005'>SECTION VIII.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='drop-capa0_0_0 c008'>Quitting Hadnock, we are gratified
+with a distant view of the bridge and town
+of Monmouth. The solitary church of
+Dixton on the opposite bank of the river,
+although deficient in accompaniments is yet
+a characteristic and interesting feature in the
+fore ground of the landscape; and it continues
+to be such, though since this drawing
+was executed, its interior received in the
+great flood in 1795 very material injury;
+the water having forced its way through the
+windows and doors, and torn up pulpit,
+pews and pavement.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>Monmouth bridge is of stone, and
+consists of six irregular arches. The town
+derives its name from its situation at the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_104'>104</span>conflux of the Wye and Mynwye, generally,
+and by the Welsh particularly pronounced
+Monnow.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>A great part of Monmouth is encompassed
+by this river which empties itself
+into the Wye at the lower end of the town;
+where a very ancient bridge and gateway,
+formerly a barrier against the Welsh, is
+thrown across this mountain stream. It is
+somewhat extraordinary, that neither history
+or tradition, although they are both
+mentioned by Leland in his itinerary, afford
+any information as to the period in which
+they were built. Independent however of
+historical evidence, they bear such unequivocal
+marks of antiquity, that the picturesque
+effect they produce, gives them ample claim
+to a place in this work. The annexed plate
+will we flatter ourselves, convey a faithful
+representation of this venerable remain, and
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_105'>105</span>in some degree illustrate the situation of the
+town itself; which though low, is seated in a
+spot at once both pleasing and romantic.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>Monmouth had anciently four gates,
+and the suburb was defended by a wall and
+deep ditch on each side, except that next the
+river. As far back as Leland’s time, the
+walls and every other embattled part but the
+square tower were in a state of ruin. The
+church is an entire modern structure.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>Monmouth has high claim to consideration
+and respect, from its having given
+birth to our fifth Henry the conqueror of
+France, whose active spirit, warlike qualities,
+and superior skill in horsemanship, particularly
+at a time when to be accomplished,
+was indispensible to the character of a
+gentleman, and the cavalry service began to
+be in a manner appropriated to men of this
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_106'>106</span>rank, are thus enchantingly, and with all
+the ease and grace of the gallant and princely
+horseman he describes, delineated by our
+matchless bard.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>“I saw young Harry with his beaver on,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“His cuiffes on his thighs, gallantly arm’d,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Rise from the ground like feather’d Mercury,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“And vaulted with such ease into his seat</div>
+      <div class='line'>“As if an angel dropp’d down from the clouds,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“To turn and wind a fiery pegasus,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“And witch the world with feats of horsemanship.”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'>Henry was born in the castle of Monmouth,
+of which little more remains than a
+few fragments of walls, and an elevation or
+mound of earth, just sufficient to ascertain
+its site; and to demonstrate how evanescent
+and transitory are all human things; the
+strong embattled fortress as well as the cradle
+of princes. Such once were to be found
+on this spot; and that this awful truth may
+be more strongly impressed and exemplified,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_107'>107</span>though there yet remains more visible and
+palpable evidence of one than of the other,
+let it be remembered, that the record of
+history will retain the memory of the birth
+place of Henry, when all traces of the castle
+shall have passed away, and even its site shall
+as ineffectually be sought after as at this
+hour the image of its former splendour.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>In this castle Edward the second, after
+he had been made prisoner by his queen
+Isabella, in 1326, was for a time confined.
+Having in the south west direction of the
+town, with some difficulty obtained a sketch
+of the ruin of the castle that partakes much
+of the picturesque, it is here given as an illustration
+of this venerable spot. The river
+Monnow beautifully winds beneath its
+ruined walls, the wooden bridge that is
+thrown across the stream, and the rich and
+verdant scenery of its hilly bank, all conspire
+to produce a landscape highly deserving a
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_108'>108</span>place in this work. The remains of the
+castle, denote it to be of Roman construction,
+Camden says that from the king’s records,
+a castle was standing here in a flourishing
+state, as early as the time of William
+the Conqueror, and that it was rebuilt by
+John Baron of Monmouth, about the year
+1240.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>This town has not only the honor of
+giving birth to a great king, but likewise
+to a great historian, Galfredius Arthurius,
+Bishop of St. Asaph, better known by the
+name of Jeffery of Monmouth. He is supposed
+to have been educated at this place,
+which had then a benedictine monastery, or
+convent of black monks, founded in 1240
+by Wihenoe de Monemue, or Monmouth.
+Monasteries were at that time the principal
+seminaries for learning in this country, as
+Oxford and Cambridge had not then risen
+to any great celebrity, and were at that period
+much depressed in consequence of the Danish
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_109'>109</span>invasion. Jeffery was made arch deacon
+of Monmouth in 1251, and was soon afterwards
+created bishop of St. Asaph. He translated
+the history of Britain from the British
+language into Latin, a work said to have
+been discovered by Walter Mapæus while in
+Armorica, and brought by him into England,
+where meeting with Jeffery of Monmouth,
+a man profoundly versed in the history
+and antiquities of Britain, and an elegant
+writer for the period in which he lived
+the task was entrusted to him. Merlin’s
+prophecies he also translated from British
+verse into Latin prose. This work was of
+essential service to the Welch chieftain Owen
+Glyndwr, whose high pretensions to soveriegnty
+were constantly favoured and cherished
+by these prophecies. The veracity of
+Jeffery, as an historian, has been doubted by
+many; Camden says that his relation of
+Brutus and his successors ought to be entirely
+disregarded. It may however be observed
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_110'>110</span>in favour of this writer, from the
+testimony of Giraldas Cambrensis his contemporary,
+that at that period the Welch
+bards and minstrels from early traditional accounts,
+received and transmitted with a mixture
+of religious reverence and awe, solemnly
+repeated the genealogy of their princes and
+heroes, from Roderic the Great to Æneas,
+and from Æneas lineally to Adam.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>If this should not altogether be thought
+to add much to their probable authenticity,
+it will serve to warrant the introduction of
+the history, to shew at least that he was not
+the author of the fiction; and, in tracing
+the origin of nations, tales to the full as fabulous
+are to be met with in the pages of
+many of our gravest and approved writers.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>To the few early historians of our own
+we owe much, and amongst these Jeffery
+deserves every respect, and we are bound to
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_111'>111</span>regret that in succeeding times, the best
+histories of this country will be found to
+have been the labors of foreigners. A fragment
+of Monmouth Priory, we have preserved
+as a tribute to the memory of the
+historian who was there educated: The
+Gothic window that appears in view remains
+very perfect, and appertains to a venerable
+ancient chamber, which he is reported
+to have occupied as a study. From
+the nature of its foundation, the free school
+at Monmouth particularly deserves our notice.
+Burton, in his history of Wales,
+gives this relation of William Jones its founder:
+he says, “Wm. Jones was born at
+Monmouth, and forced to quit his country
+for not being able to pay ten groats.
+Coming to London he became first a
+porter, and then a factor; and going
+over to Hamburgh, had such a vent for
+Welch cottons, that he gained a very
+considerable estate in a short time. He
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_112'>112</span>founded a fair school in Monmouth, allowing
+fifty pounds yearly to the master,
+and a hundred pounds salary to a lecturer,
+besides a stately alms-house for
+twenty poor people, each of them having
+two rooms and a garden, and half a
+crown a week; all which he left to the
+oversight of the company of haberdashers
+in London, who discharge their trust
+therein to this day.” Another account of
+the founder is thus given, but with less
+credibility. That he was a native of Newland,
+a few miles distant from Monmouth,
+and having quitted it when young to seek
+his fortune, he returned at an advanced period
+of life, in an apparent state of indigence,
+although very rich, and applied to
+his native town for relief as a pauper,
+which being refused, he took his revenge on
+the people by retiring to Monmouth, and
+there dispensing that wealth, that was intended
+to enrich his native place.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'><span class='pageno' id='Page_113'>113</span>We cannot quit the pleasant town of
+Monmouth without noticing the massive pile
+of its <a id='t113'></a>gaol. Built in a lofty and healthy spot,
+and in the form of an ancient castle; it
+frowns over the country, and impresses the
+idea of rigorous confinement and the impossibility
+of escape. At the time we visited
+this expensive and spacious work, it contained
+only one solitary inhabitant, and he
+a prisoner for only a very trivial offence.
+As our <a id='t113a'></a>gaols increase in magnitude, it is
+with pleasure we have frequently had occasion
+to remark that there is a decrease of
+inhabitants, nor is it less worthy of observation
+that the humanity of supplying even
+those who least deserve it, with decent accommodation,
+as well as the blessing of light
+and air, before denied to them, is now most
+liberally granted.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>Perhaps it may not be too much to
+infer from hence, that the immensity of the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_114'>114</span>bulk of these buildings, in the conspicuous
+situation in which they are now placed, may
+impress the multitude with such a terror of
+the consequence of crimes, as in some degree
+to prevent a commission of them.
+This building stands on an eminence, and
+commands a fine view of the town and surrounding
+country.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_115'>115</span>
+  <h2 class='c005'>SECTION IX.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='drop-capa0_0_0 c008'>Quitting Monmouth on an excursion
+to Rhaglan Castle, we ascended a
+considerable hill about a mile from the
+town, that afforded one of the most luxuriant
+landscapes we had witnessed in the
+course of our route. From this eminence,
+the rich valley in which Monmouth is situated,
+and the beauties of the surrounding
+country, are highly illustrative of Gray’s
+opinion of the charming situation of this
+place. He rapturously describes this scene
+as “the delight of his eyes and the very
+seat of pleasure.” We have attempted to
+give an idea of this much admired spot in the
+annexed plate.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The ride to Rhaglan Castle, a distance of
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_116'>116</span>about six miles, amply gratified us for this
+deviation from our main pursuit.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>This magnificent remain of ancient
+splendor stands on an elevated situation
+commonly called Twyn-y-ciros, which signifies
+in Welch the cherry hill; and, as we
+approach it from the village, appears to
+wear that solemn and majestic air highly
+characteristic of the spirit of the times in
+which it flourished. The external view
+here selected, we flatter ourselves will not
+only convey the best idea of its extent and
+magnificence, but is a point from which
+we do not remember to have ever seen it represented.
+This noble building, which may
+rather be terminated a castellated house than
+a castle, is in many parts, still in good preservation.
+It was erected in the reign of
+Henry VII. and does not therefore boast of
+great antiquity; many additions were made
+to it about the time of Elizabeth, these
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_117'>117</span>constitute, the most elegant parts of this
+superb pile, and are to be found in the
+windows of the grand hall, or banqueting
+room; the ornaments of the frieze and cornice
+are light and elegant, and in the best
+taste of that time. To the left of this hall,
+was a large court one hundred feet long,
+and sixty feet broad, well arched and ornamented,
+with curious stone work both on
+the walls and windows. In the midst of
+the court was a pleasant marble fountain
+called the White Horse: the following remark
+of Dr. Griffin, relative to the white
+horse may not prove uninteresting. “I remember,”
+says he, “some years ago,
+they used to shew here part of the body
+of a black horse, which stood in the
+middle of some water that supplied the
+castle, and was a fountain. I was told
+the parliamentarians poisoned the water
+during the siege, and that the stone horse
+absorbed the poison; it was very hard,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_118'>118</span>but on being struck, or rubbed with any
+hard substance, emitted a very offensive
+smell. Perhaps I had the legend very
+imperfectly, and it should have been added,
+the poison turned the white horse
+into a black one.” The castle is surrounded
+by a wide fosse thirty feet broad,
+wherein was originally placed an artificial
+water work, which spouted up water to the
+height of the castle, and contains within it
+two acres, one of which appears to have
+been encompassed with domestic offices, such
+as kitchen, brewhouse, &#38;c. and in which
+there is an oven, and fire range of such extraordinary
+dimensions, as to satisfy us,
+that there were times in which they were
+not wholly occupied in feats of arms.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>In this building every precaution has
+been used to guard and secure the approaches
+to it; and the utmost magnificence is to be
+observed in every part of the interior, even
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_119'>119</span>in the domestic offices. The staircase and
+ascent to the grand apartments are peculiarly
+noble; and beneath the areas which are
+vaulted, are various subterraneous apartments,
+and extensive cellars of the most excellent
+workmanship. The citadel, which is
+octagonal, is surrounded by a moat, and
+stands at a small distance from the castle:
+its principal parts are in a perfect state
+of preservation. This noble castle is in the
+possession of the Duke of Beaufort, whose
+ancestor, the Marquis of Worcester in the
+time of Charles the first, added and fortified
+many extensive out works, by which he was
+enabled to hold it for the king’s use till
+his imprisonment at Holmby. It once contained
+a garrison of eight hundred men, and
+was the last castle that surrendered to the
+parliament forces, then under the command
+of Sir Thomas Fairfax. This event happened
+on the nineteenth of August 1646,
+and is reported to have been effected by a female
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_120'>120</span>in the garrison, and by the use of
+a very ordinary female engine, the mere waving
+a handkerchief, as a signal for the introduction
+of Cromwell’s party. If this were
+so, politics were probably by no means the
+primary incentives of this lady’s zeal, and
+there were doubtless secret articles in this
+treaty, unknown to the besieging general.
+The window at which she appeared is still
+shewn.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The more probable account is, that from
+the very long siege it sustained, the upper
+part was undermined, and the timbers being
+burnt a great part of it fell down. Soon
+after its surrender, the castle was demolished
+and left, in nearly the same state
+in which it now remains. The loss to the
+family is supposed to be upwards of a hundred
+thousand pounds, besides the forfeiture
+of an estate of twenty thousand a year.
+Three considerable parks of remarkable fertility,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_121'>121</span>and richly stocked with deer, once
+appertained to this castle.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>Returning to Monmouth we resumed
+our passage down the Wye, on a morning, one
+of the most beautiful ever beheld. The retrospective
+view of Monmouth on passing down,
+the spire of the church, the town, bridge, and
+surrounding scene, though inferior to that
+above, yet in some respects exhibited a very
+picturesque landscape. The hills opposite
+to Monmouth, are called the Kemmin
+Rocks, on the summit of which Mr. Philip
+Hardwick, an architect, has erected a
+stone building for the reception of his
+friends, called Philip’s Court. This spot
+commands a view most extensive and diversified,
+and will well repay the labour of
+climbing up what John Bunyan would justly
+call <i>Hill Difficulty</i>. To those who visit this
+spot it may be worth the trouble of going
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_122'>122</span>about a mile further to view, amongst
+many others, an immense large rock called
+the Buck Stone; a name probably derived
+from the deer having sheltered themselves
+under it when the adjacent country was in
+the form of a park. Its situation is on the
+extreme edge of the hill; and, though of
+an immense size, it stands on an angular
+point, and is so nicely balanced, as to be
+with a very small degree of force, set in
+motion and shaken. Approaching the junction
+of the Monnow with the Wye, the side
+scenes of the river, increase in richness
+both of woody, and verdant scenery, and
+with such agreeable breaks in the distance as
+to produce an enchanting effect.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>A little below this point, a small
+river called the Trothe, or Trothey, unites
+itself with our Wye, on whose banks they
+jointly pass, near a respectable mansion
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_123'>123</span>called Troy house, in the possession of the
+Duke of Beaufort, to whom it descended
+from Sir Charles Somerset.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>Sir Charles was the third son of Edward
+Earl of Worcester, and married the
+daughter and heiress of Sir William Powell
+of Troy, by whom he acquired a considerable
+estate, and added much influence to
+the house of Worcester. The present edifice
+notwithstanding it was designed by
+Inigo Jones, has little that can recommend
+it to notice. It is used merely as a lodge,
+and is occasionally only occupied by the family.
+A few portraits decorate its walls,
+but they are not of consequence sufficient to
+take the traveller far out of his way. The
+cradle wherein Harry of Monmouth is reported
+to have been rocked is here exhibited
+as a great curiosity, but the freshness of its
+velvet, its nails and appendages, bespeak it
+rather to have been the receptacle of one of
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_124'>124</span>the Beaufort family in the time of Charles
+the second.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>To those however who are fond of cradles
+(and in their second childhood, amongst
+our old lady antiquaries, some such there
+may be) the annexed sketch of one, the appearance
+of which bespeaks it as not unlikely
+to have been of that time, and which
+is in the possession of the Reverend Mr.
+Ball of Newlands, a few miles from Monmouth,
+may not prove an unacceptable
+regale.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i124.jpg' alt='Black-and-white engraving of a rectangular cradle with horizontal banding, set between two fluted columns. A bird perches on top of each column. Four round openings appear along the lower front of the cradle. The base extends outward on both sides.' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'><span class='pageno' id='Page_125'>125</span>It is made of oak without any covering,
+and is suspended by two iron rings, by
+which it receives motion on the least touch
+or action of the child; it is three feet long,
+one foot four deep, and one foot six wide;
+it is ornamented at the top of the supporters,
+which are octagonal, with two birds,
+resembling eagles, but their beaks are broken
+off. The following anecdote relative to
+Troy house, extracted from the “Apothegms
+of the Earl of Worcester,” it is
+presumed will be thought not unworthy a
+place in this work.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>“Sir Thomas Somerset, brother to the
+Marquis of Worcester, had a house which
+was called Troy, five miles from Rhaglan
+castle. This Sir Thomas being a complete
+gentleman, delighted much in fine
+gardens and orchards, where by the benefit
+of art, the earth was made so grateful
+to him at the same time, that the king
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_126'>126</span>(Charles the first) happened to be at his
+brother’s house, that it yielded him wherewithal
+to send his brother a present; and
+such an one as (the times and the seasons
+considered) was able to make the king
+believe, that the sovereign of the planets
+had now changed the poles, and that
+Wales (the refuse and the outcast of the
+fair garden of England) had fairer and
+riper fruit than England’s bowels had
+on all her beds. This present, given to
+the marquis, he would not suffer to be
+presented to the king by any hand but
+his own. In comes the marquis then, at
+the end of the supper, led by the arm,
+with a slow pace, expressing much Spanish
+gravity, with a silver dish in each hand,
+filled with rarities; and a little basket on
+his arm as a reserve, when making his
+obeisance he thus speaks: May it please
+your Majesty, if the four elements could
+have been robbed to have entertained your
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_127'>127</span>Majesty, I think I had but done my duty,
+but I must do as I may. If I had sent
+to Bristol for some good things to entertain
+your Majesty, that would have been
+no wonder at all. If I had procured
+from London, some goodness that might
+have been acceptable to your Majesty, that
+would have been no wonder. But here I
+present you, Sir, (placing his dishes upon
+the table) with that which came not from
+Lincoln that was, nor London that is,
+nor York that is to be, but from Troy.”
+Whereupon the king smiled and answered
+the marquis; “Truly my Lord, I have heard
+that corn grows where Troy town stood;
+but I never thought there had grown any
+apricots before.” Whereupon the marquis
+replied, “Any thing to please your
+Majesty.” When my lord marquis departed
+the presence, one told him that he
+would make a very good courtier; remember
+well, replied the marquis, that I said
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_128'>128</span>one thing which may give some hopes of
+me: <i>Any thing</i> to please your majesty.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>Amidst a rich though hilly scenery,
+beautiful in its forms and happily diversified
+by a multitude of small farms, that exhibit
+evident marks of improving cultivation in
+this, yet very improvable, though fertile
+country, we reach Redbrook. Here a considerable
+manufactory of iron and tin gives
+a new and pleasing variety to the scenery
+and bustle on our river. Some of the iron
+ore used here comes from Coldford, and
+other places in the neighbourhood of the
+forest of Dean, but the greater part is
+brought from Lancashire.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>About a mile and a half below Redbrook,
+the Wye receives a further supply
+from a small stream called Whitebrook;
+about the distance of a mile from whence
+stands St. Briaval’s Castle. It is situated on
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_129'>129</span>an eminence, and though so near the river,
+is from the water too indistinct an object
+for the pencil. This is to be regretted, as
+the woody declivities on each side of it are
+beautiful in their forms, and display a scene
+uncommonly rich and elegant; but on
+quitting the boat we found a nearer view of
+the castle, well worthy a place in this work,
+and a proper ornament of its subject. The
+annexed sketch exhibits a north east view of
+the castle, and the remains of the moat
+that in part surrounded it.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The distant Monmouthshire hills form
+a good termination to the scene, while the
+adjoining church and general face of the
+landscape presents a view, in its style and character, materially varying from any
+we have yet met with. From the remains
+of this castle it appears to have been a place
+of great strength, and of considerable extent;
+it was built by Miles, Earl of Hereford,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_130'>130</span>in the reign of King Henry I. whose
+third son named Mahel, Camden informs
+us, was here overtaken by “God’s judgments
+for his rapacious ways, inhuman
+cruelties, and boundless avarice. For
+being courteously entertained here by
+Walter de Clifford, the castle taking fire,
+he lost his life by the fall of a stone on
+his head, from the highest tower.” The
+custody of St. Briaval’s, with the Forest of
+Dean, was granted to John de Monemouth,
+in the eighteenth year of King John. The
+Earl of Berkeley is the present constable,
+and the Duke of Beaufort, under whose direction
+the castle is kept in a good state of
+repair, is lord of the manor. The tower in
+the west front is now used as a prison.
+From hence, the views of the surrounding
+country are extensive and beautiful; and
+here the meandering of the Wye paints the
+landscape, as in its general course, and
+spreads richness and fertility in the vallies
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_131'>131</span>through which it flows. Returning to our
+boat we passed Big’s Weir, near which, on
+the bank of the Wye, is the seat of General
+Rooke, whose father captured Gibraltar.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/fp131.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic002'>
+<p><i>S. Ireland del.</i><br>  <br>  <i>Llandogar.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'><span class='pageno' id='Page_132'>132</span>It is situated in the midst of a rich pasturage,
+and commands a full view of the
+river, and that interesting variety of moving
+objects, which its busy commerce here presents.
+Amidst a range of beautiful scenery,
+we pass the pleasant village of Llandogar
+about a mile below. Here the river forms
+a smooth and glassy bay, through which the
+white sailed vessel is seen constantly gliding,
+or lying moored on the shore to take in her
+freight. The undulating hills, called the
+Hudnells, form a beautiful back ground to
+this charming scene, of which the annexed
+view will give a faint idea.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>A little below is Cadithil Weir, from
+whence we dropped pleasantly down the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_133'>133</span>stream to another village called Brook’s
+Weir, which is considered a half way distance
+from Monmouth to Chepstow. At
+this place the goods sent from Monmouth
+are shipped and conveyed in larger vessels to
+Bristol. The river, in an easy meandering
+course, soon brought us within view of the
+most picturesque object on its banks, the
+splendid and very elegant ruin of Tintern
+Abbey,</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>“These are fair scenes where if art whilom trod,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Led by the worst of guides fell tyranny,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“And with less superstition, we now trace</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Her footsteps with delight; and pleas’d revere</div>
+      <div class='line'>“What once we should have hated.”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_134'>134</span>
+<img src='images/fp133.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic002'>
+<p><i>S. Ireland del.</i><br>  <br>  <i>Tintern Abbey.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'>Approaching this sublime and sequestered
+spot, the enthusiastic lover of simplicity
+in art and nature, the admirer of the
+picturesque and beautiful, the antiquary
+and the moralist will feel the effect, as it
+were, of enchantment, and become lost almost
+in a pleasing melancholy. The steepy
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_135'>135</span>hills, the hanging woods, the rolling
+stream, the nodding ruin, the surviving
+monuments of fallen grandeur and beauty
+in decay; the constructed space, the stillness
+and retirement, all conspire to impress the
+mind with awe, and for a moment withdraw
+from its vain pursuit of wealth and power,
+and abstract it from the world. On this remain,
+a very able writer has remarked, that
+“were the building ever so beautiful, encompassed
+as it is with shabby houses, it
+could make no appearance from the river.”
+In this we essentially differ, and
+present the annexed view in support of our
+opinion. Here every cottage appears as it
+really exists on the spot; and the petty, or
+if you please paltry accompaniments to
+which he alludes, appear to us so far from
+diminishing the grandeur of the general
+effect, that they serve rather on the contrary
+as a scale, and give magnitude to the
+principal object.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'><span class='pageno' id='Page_136'>136</span>The ruined windows, pillars, and
+mouldings are all of them very elegant specimens
+of the most perfect style of Gothic
+architecture. That wreck and desolation to
+which the revolution of opinion, the wasteful
+rapacity and tyranny of Henry, had
+subjected this lovely spot, would have presented
+only marks of violence, and under
+the pretence of religion, the ravaging arm
+of an unprincipled barbarian. It is to the
+gentler tyranny, the silent and progressive
+ravages, of time, that we owe many of
+those delicate touches and features of beauty
+that embellish this elegant and interesting
+ruin. These have contributed to soften
+down the sharper edges of the chissel, and,
+by blending its variegated tufts of moss,
+and spreading and overhanging with its
+loose drapery, and many tinted greens, the
+highly wrought ornaments and sculpture of
+the place, have given to the whole a richness
+and mellowness, far beyond the reach of art.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'><span class='pageno' id='Page_137'>137</span>The small gothic Gate at the entrance
+from the water, was evidently an adjunct
+of the abbey, and the remaining small
+buildings adjoining, formed part of its out-offices.
+The abbey was founded A. D. 1131,
+by Walter de Clare, for monks of the Cistercian
+order; and dedicated to Saint Mary.
+About the time of the revolution, here were
+thirteen religious houses, whose estates were
+estimated according to Dugdale at one hundred
+and ninety-two pounds, one shilling
+and four pence per annum. The site was
+granted in the twenty-eighth of Henry the
+VIII. to Henry Earl of Worcester, from
+whom it has descended to the present Duke
+of Beaufort.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>On entering this sublime ruin the mind
+is struck with a reverential and religious
+awe: a sensation which can be no more expressed
+by words, than it can in this full extent
+be excited by all the graces of Grecian
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_138'>138</span>proportions, and all the decencies of orthodox
+worship. The noble clustered columns
+form a beautiful scene in perspective; and,
+while some of the rich Gothic ornaments
+and pointed arches above, present themselves
+as if magically suspended, and raise an idea
+of grandeur, accompanied, if not with alarm
+with some degree of surprise, the various
+ruinated fragments of capitals and pillars
+below, which lie scattered indiscriminately
+and in part overgrown and buried in beds
+of wild flowers and verdant tendrils, create
+an interesting disorder, and suggest ideas,
+though perhaps of a melancholy tinge, yet
+so far from a distressing nature as to lull the
+mind to a repose, congenial to the general
+turn of the surrounding scenery.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_139'>139</span>
+<img src='images/fp136.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic002'>
+<p><i>S. Ireland del.</i><br>  <br>  <i>Interior of Tintern Abbey.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'>The smooth and trim manner in which
+the ground is here kept, is not, according to
+our conception, very much in unison with
+the assemblage of objects around, where
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_140'>140</span>brokenness and irregularity are the principal
+and leading features of the place, the tameness
+and uniformity produced by it, are incongruous
+and out of character.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The western window, although in point
+of proportion rather too wide for its height,
+is yet a curious specimen of the ancient Gothic,
+and no contemptible study for one who
+is smitten with a true passion for the antique.
+The roof of the building is entirely
+fallen in, and with it some of the pillars are
+lost, but their bases still remain above the
+surface of the ground, so as to enable the
+antiquary, if he has the least of the architect
+about him, very easily to give a ground
+plot of the whole.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>In the middle of the nave, the lofty
+arches which once supported the steeple, rise
+high above the rest; but though they retain
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_141'>141</span>their forms, they are reduced to a mere
+ridge of stone.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The neighbouring iron works belonging
+to Mr. Tanner of Monmouth, will afford
+a different scene, and should be visited by
+every traveller. Here the quiet and repose
+of the cottage is happily contrasted by the
+activity and bustle of the forge.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>In passing along the river side to the
+iron works, many beautiful passages in landscape
+present themselves; they are composed
+of woody and diversified hills, similar to
+those adjoining to the abbey, but heightened
+by the busy scenes of the labourer and artificer,
+constantly employed in the adjacent
+manufactory. The iron works are principally
+supplied from Furness in Lancashire
+with ore, which is dissolved by the blasts of
+immense bellows that are worked by means
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_142'>142</span>of cylinder pumps. The best qualities of
+the ore are separated from the dross by a
+water wheel and hammers, by which operation
+considerable quantities of pure metal
+are collected, and the powder is sold to the
+glass houses. Various forges are here contrived
+for the purpose of forming the mutilated
+ore into proper sizes, from the largest
+bar of iron, to the smallest wire.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_144'>144</span>
+  <h2 class='c005'>SECTION X.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='drop-capa0_0_0 c008'>Bending our course down the Wye
+we pass a promontory, from whence the
+eastern extremity of the abbey presents itself;
+but here all is flat and uninteresting,
+compared with the scene we have just quitted.
+In this point of view the tottering
+and solitary pillar, remaining in the centre
+of the great east window, appears to be
+scarce able to support itself; thus circumstanced
+it is fortunate for the antiquary that
+very little of the fabric depends upon it,
+or a great part of that venerable structure
+would, ere long, inevitably come to the
+ground with it.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>We were soon deprived of any further
+view of this elegant remain by a strong
+wind and tide, which quickly hurried us
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_145'>145</span>down the stream; but scenes like these, on
+which the mind has long dwelt in pleasing
+meditation, are not easily effaced by
+a mere change of place: they on the contrary
+are rather cherished by the preceding
+scenery, by the gloom of the rock, the repose
+of the meadow, and the stillness of the
+gliding stream; nor do they disappear till
+we mix in the busy hum of men, till we
+plunge into the more tumultuous scene of
+human life and human passions.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>Having passed much beautiful scenery
+nearly of the style and character of that
+which we witnessed about Tintern, here we
+again discover the eastern bank of the Wye
+screened with rocky substances, not unlike
+those at Cold-well. These substances are
+called the Thorn, and Black Cliffs. The
+water at this place is much discoloured, and
+acquires a thick and clayey hue, evidently
+produced by the influx of the tide, which is
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_146'>146</span>here very visible, and which from the Severn
+sea, and the low marshy land on its shores is
+so impregnated with mud, and imports it in
+such quantities as to foul the pearly tresses
+of the Wye, even to a degree of deformity.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>——“The torrent flood,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Thy molten chrystal fills with mud,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Tho’ thy lofty head be crown’d</div>
+      <div class='line'>“With many a tower and terras round.”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'>We now approach the rocks that terminate
+the grounds of Persfield; these are
+tremendous projections hanging over the
+river, and in their form resemble so many
+bastions of a castle. They are twelve in
+number, and bear the name of the Twelve
+Apostles; a thirteenth in the same range is
+terminated by a slender stone about five
+feet in height, which is called St. Peter’s
+Thumb. In this spot we are struck with
+a wonderful reverberation of sound, such
+as must afford a curious speculation to the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_147'>147</span>philosophical inquirer into the nature and
+properties of air, and that conformation of
+earth and rock and woody accompaniment,
+which are necessary to produce with such
+continued repercussion, an echo so clear and
+distinct. A little below these rocks a person,
+some years ago, fell unhurt from an immense
+height into the woods on the margin
+of the river. This almost miraculous interposition
+on his behalf, wrought very little
+effect upon his life and manners, for so
+hardened and incapable was he of being
+acted upon, either by the recollection of
+mercies or the dread of punishment, that,
+having not long after attended the execution
+of a friend for a robbery, he conceived in
+his mind the plan of a similar crime, perpetrated
+it, and suffered the same fate. So
+that his rescue from a watery grave seems to
+have served little purpose beyond that of verifying
+the adage, that he, who is destined
+to the halter, may brave the precipice and
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_148'>148</span>the flood. A little lower down the river
+we pass the rocks, from the sudden and precipitate
+fall they present, called the Lover’s
+Leap. Had he not happily been caught by
+the shrubbery planted below, Mr. Morris
+the former possessor, had here fallen a sacrifice
+to his passion for those simple charms of
+nature, which he explored and dressed with
+a correspondent taste. He added to their variety
+without lessening their interest. Since
+that time a professed improver has been let
+in, and the consequence, not the <i>natural</i>
+consequence, has been that with his roller
+and shears, insipid uniformity has identified
+the ever changeful scene; and the slime of
+this snail has scarce less deformed its dells,
+its craggy hills, and its groves, than has the
+mud of the Severn that polluted its waters.
+To prevent any such accident in future this
+gentleman soon after fixed a rail on the edge
+of the precipice. By a steep and unpleasant
+path, the traveller, from these rocks, has
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_149'>149</span>sometimes ascended to the grounds of Persfield.
+A circular bend of the river now displayed
+to our view the noble ruin of Chepstow
+castle. The situation of this venerable
+building is striking. It is built on the
+summit of an immense perpendicular rock,
+into which it appears rivetted, or rather to
+be growing out of it; as from the top of
+the battlements, down to the base of the cliff
+on the margin of the river, it is one continued
+range of precipice.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>This majestic remain, is from the present
+point of view peculiarly interesting, and
+in its effect highly picturesque. The ancient
+Gothic entrance partly in ruin, the irregular
+breaks and prominencies in the general
+form of the building, which is a mixture
+of the Norman and Saxon style, are in
+many parts overgrown with large clumps of
+ivy and variegated shrubs, sometimes beautifully
+clustered among the fragments of the
+castle, and again falling down and enriching
+the white and awful cliff below.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/fp147.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic002'>
+<p><i>S. Ireland Del<sup>t</sup>.</i><br>  <br>  <i>Chepstow Castle &#38; bridge.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'><span class='pageno' id='Page_150'>150</span>The adjoining bridge from its height,
+singular construction, and relative situation
+to the castle has a romantic air, and is well
+calculated to give general effect to the landscape.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>On the opposite shore, the different forms
+of the cliffs and rich verdure with which
+they are cloathed, and the masts of the vessels
+from behind the bridge breaking on the
+eye, complete the scene, and render it altogether
+a happy group of objects for the
+pencil. This bridge is built with timber,
+and the boards which compose the floor,
+are so laid as to yield to the water and play
+some inches. It is seventy feet above the
+surface of the river, and is so constructed
+in consequence of the impetuosity of the
+tide, which, just as it rushes in from the Severn
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_151'>151</span>sea, being here suddenly confined
+within a narrow channel, is frequently
+known to have risen forty feet. As it
+divides the counties of Gloucester and Monmouth,
+it is kept in repair at their joint expence.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>According to some accounts, Chepstow
+castle appears formerly to have occupied
+a considerable space of ground, not less it is
+presumed than five acres. About six hundred
+years since, it was rebuilt by Gilbert
+Earl of Pembroke, surnamed Strongbow.
+This Gilbert was second son of Gilbert de
+Clare, from him it came after various grants
+to Charles Somerset, a son of the third Duke
+of Beaufort, afterwards Earl of Worcester,
+and from him it descended to the present
+duke.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The premises have been for many
+years under a lease for lives, the last of
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_152'>152</span>which is at present in 1794, an aged woman
+who shews the castle in which she was born.
+Amongst the several buildings still remaining,
+the chapel demands attention, it is
+spacious and has been much ornamented.
+Twelve large niches with semicircular arches
+over them, are formed in the walls. They
+have seats which are chair high above the
+floor. The uses to which they were appropriated
+is not clearly ascertained. The
+grand entrance on the east side, is a noble
+and venerable remain of the Norman stile
+of building, it stands between two lofty
+towers, and is in a good state of preservation.
+Much of the Roman wall, in the
+north west angle of the chapel, appears in
+the courses of bricks between the stone facings.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>In the civil dissentions of the last century,
+this castle was considered of great importance
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_153'>153</span>to both parties, and a garrison was
+continued here after the restoration. A spacious
+apartment is still shewn in which
+Henry Martin, one of the king’s judges, was
+confined a sole prisoner for twenty seven
+years.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The life of this remarkable man was
+spared, he having surrendered himself conformable
+to the proclamation issued, when
+that event took place. His estates in Berkshire,
+which were considerable, were sequestered,
+and here he resided till 1680, when
+according to Anthony Wood, he died suddenly
+while at dinner, at the age of 78.
+He was buried in Chepstow church, and on
+his tomb stone were engraved the following
+lines. As they are now obliterated and are
+said to have been written by himself, they
+may be thought worth preserving. The
+Epitaph is an Acrostic.</p>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+  <div class='nf-center'>
+    <div><span class='pageno' id='Page_154'>154</span>HERE, SEPTEMBER THE NINTH,</div>
+    <div>WAS BURIED</div>
+    <div>A TRUE ENGLISHMAN,</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>Who in Berkshire, was well known</div>
+      <div class='line'>To love his country’s freedom ’bove his own;</div>
+      <div class='line'>But being immured full twenty year,</div>
+      <div class='line'>Had time to write as doth appear.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+  <div class='nf-center'>
+    <div>HIS EPITAPH.</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>H&#160;ere or elsewhere, (all’s one to you), to me</div>
+      <div class='line'>E&#160;arth, air, or water, gripes my ghostly dust,</div>
+      <div class='line'>N&#160;one knows how soon to be by fire set free:</div>
+      <div class='line'>R&#160;eader if you an oft try’d rule will trust,</div>
+      <div class='line'>Y&#160;ou’ll gladly do and fuller what you must.</div>
+    </div>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>M&#160;y time was spent in serving you, and you</div>
+      <div class='line'>A&#160;nd death’s my pay, it seems, and welcome too,</div>
+      <div class='line'>R&#160;evenge destroying but itself, while I,</div>
+      <div class='line'>T&#160;o birds of prey leave my old cage and fly.</div>
+      <div class='line'>E&#160;xamples preach to the eye: care then, mine says,</div>
+      <div class='line'>N&#160;ot how you end, but how you spend your days.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'>Some years after its interment, by order
+of the then clergyman, the body was
+removed to an obscure situation, that the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_155'>155</span>church might not be disgraced by containing
+the ashes of a regicide. Chepstow parish
+church, formed a part of the old priory belonging
+to the Benedictine monks founded in
+the reign of King Stephen. Leland says this
+was a cell to Bermondsey abbey, but it does
+not appear to be so in the First Fruits Office;
+as no rent, or pension by way of acknowledgement,
+is there recorded to that abbey.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The style of building of this church
+is pure Norman, the arches of the nave are
+circular, which are supported by square massive
+pillars in a very perfect state. The entrance
+to the west front is in a very fine style,
+of the same architecture, the proportions
+are just, and the pillars and mouldings are
+richly decorated in the taste of that period.
+As we have quoted one monumental inscription,
+from this ancient receptacle of
+the dead, we flatter ourselves that we may
+without making an obituary of this work,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_156'>156</span>be permitted to contrast the two following.
+The first was on a sea captain, who
+died in 1774.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line in2'>The blusterous blasts, and Neptune’s waves,</div>
+      <div class='line in4'>Have tost me to, and fro;</div>
+      <div class='line in2'>In spite of all, by God’s decree</div>
+      <div class='line in4'>I harbour here below.</div>
+      <div class='line'>Here I am anchor’d with many of our fleet,</div>
+      <div class='line'>But we shall sail again, our Admiral Christ to meet.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'>The following is on John Davis, a
+jockey of this town, who seems determined
+in his technical phrases to outdo, not only
+the captain, but to distance all that may
+hereafter be said on the subject.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>’Tis vain to trust to human strength, or art,</div>
+      <div class='line'>When God doth strive, ye will small aid impart</div>
+      <div class='line'>As my mishap, ’tho skill’d in riding, shows</div>
+      <div class='line'>That the Almighty, horse and rider throws.</div>
+      <div class='line'>Be then prepar’d, my friends, since accidents</div>
+      <div class='line'>May in an instant hurry you from hence.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'>From Chepstow by a very pleasant ride
+we visited the charming grounds of Persfield,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_157'>157</span>a spot where nature has been uncommonly
+profuse, not only in the disposition
+of the beautiful slopes and waving lawns
+that enrich and compose the grounds themselves,
+but in the extensive and diversified
+scenery that strikes the eye, from every point
+of view. I have here selected from amidst
+a profusion of magnificent and fascinating
+objects, rarely to be met with in this or any
+other country, a very extensive sketch that
+includes Chepstow castle, and the town beneath,
+together with the rocky cliffs designed
+as it were by nature to bound the course
+of the Wye, whose beautiful meandering
+extends for a distance of three miles, and
+then loses itself in the greater waters of the
+Severn. Here</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line in16'>——“Pleas’d <i>Vaga</i> pour’d</div>
+      <div class='line'>His sea green streams, deep murmuring beneath</div>
+      <div class='line'>The hanging bowers and glittering rocks; while wide</div>
+      <div class='line'>The rougher Severn stretch’d his arm, bestrew’d</div>
+      <div class='line'>With shining sails, to the capacious ocean.”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c006'><span class='pageno' id='Page_158'>158</span>This enchanting scene is bounded by
+the Gloucestershire and Somersetshire hills,
+and affords a subject for landscape, more
+sublime and picturesque than the most fertile
+imagination can conceive. An attempt
+to describe every beautiful object that presents
+itself within the circuit of these
+grounds, would in the recital be tedious and
+uninteresting, I shall therefore only observe,
+that the scenery on this spot is perpetually
+diversified, and nature every where rises beyond
+the reach of art. The enclosed view,
+though I may in my attempt have merited
+the praise of fidelity, will I hear convey but
+a faint and unimpressive idea of that scenery
+which is adapted only to the talent and pencil
+of a Claude Lorraine.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>In contemplating this magnificent and
+stupendous assemblage of nature and art,
+we are led as it were instinctively to deplore
+the melancholy reverse of fortune, that saddened
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_159'>159</span>the last days of the original designer
+and owner of this charming spot; of him
+whose elegant mind and munificent hand
+could, out of the rude uncultivated mass,
+project and raise to the highest state of perfection
+a monument of taste, that must
+remain an ornament to his country.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>We could not take our leave of Chepstow,
+without giving a retrospective view of
+the castle, and its tremendous rocky base
+and distant scenery over which we had just
+passed. The romantic bridge and busy scene
+on the water, all combined to aid the landscape,
+and to give a further illustration of
+this fascinating place. Chepstow, the grand
+and central port of the commerce of our
+river, is here finely displayed by the throng
+that lined the wharf, and the grove of trading
+vessels through which we passed. The
+lofty and high impending screen of rocks,
+on either side the river, rendered our passage
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_160'>160</span>down the stream delightful. Amongst these
+the red rocks and Hardwick cliff are peculiarly
+attractive, in the latter many large
+apertures have been dug that are passable,
+and extend forty, or fifty yards from the
+entrance, and in the vicinity is a remarkable
+fine well of water, that gives the name of
+Thornwell to a beautiful range of woods,
+adjoining the termination of Hardwick cliff.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>The annexed view of what are called
+the Red Rocks, will give a general idea of the
+face of the river, in our passage down to the
+mouth of the Wye, where we found the
+tide uncommonly rapid, and where if the
+wind is brisk, the waters are troublesomely
+rough.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>It is here matter of much regret, that
+we cannot with fidelity introduce the distant
+Severn, which would have rendered the
+view more complete. At Ewen’s rocks,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_161'>161</span>about a mile below, that noble river breaks
+extensively on the eye, and presents a beautiful
+scene, but it is altogether an inferior
+one to that before us.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>At the conflux of the Wye, or in the
+vicinity of Beachley, (the old passage house)
+the Severn is seen to greater advantage. The
+distant hills of Gloucestershire and Somersetshire,
+beautifully intersecting each other
+in varied tints, while intervening objects of
+castles, villages, and mansions of the wealthy
+and great on the opposite shore, richly
+diversify and compleat the whole. The distance,
+composed of Walton hills about ten
+miles below, breaks beautifully on the eye,
+and forms a happy termination across King’s-road
+and the Bristol channel.</p>
+
+<p class='c006'>From hence the groups of vessels that
+are constantly moored near the mouth of the
+Bristol Avon, although at a distance of near
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_162'>162</span>three miles, are perfectly distinguishable.
+The immense quantity of shipping perpetually
+passing and repassing before the eye,
+convey a magnificent idea, both of that celebrated
+mart of our country, the city of
+Bristol, and of the extensive commerce of
+the Severn, a river, memorable and sacred
+almost as the wizard Dee in ancient song;
+a torrent before the grandeur of whose flood,
+our more beautiful Wye feels diminished and
+submits her humbler and tributary stream, a
+torrent whose guardian spirit we shall at
+another, and we trust no very distant day
+hope to invoke, and with</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c007'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>“Shepherds in the festival of peace</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Carol her goodness loud in rustic lays,</div>
+      <div class='line'>“And throw sweet garland wreaths into her stream</div>
+      <div class='line'>“Of pansies, pinks, and gaudy daffodils.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c001'>
+    <div><em class='gesperrt'>FINIS.</em></div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='pbb'>
+ <hr class='pb c003'>
+</div>
+<div class='tnotes x-ebookmaker'>
+
+<div class='chapter ph2'>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c002'>
+    <div>TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<table class='table0'>
+  <tr>
+    <th class='c011'>Page</th>
+    <th class='c011'>Changed from</th>
+    <th class='c012'>Changed to</th>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c013'><a href='#t24'>24</a></td>
+    <td class='c014'>not only against every principal of utility to</td>
+    <td class='c015'>not only against every principle of utility to</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c013'><a href='#t87'>87</a></td>
+    <td class='c014'>licence in the twentieth of Edward the</td>
+    <td class='c015'>licence in the twentieth year of Edward the</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c013'><a href='#t96'>96</a></td>
+    <td class='c014'>in human life, give an interest to this ef-</td>
+    <td class='c015'>in human life, give an interest to this effusion</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c013'><a href='#t113'>113</a></td>
+    <td class='c014'>of its goal. Built in a lofty and healthy spot</td>
+    <td class='c015'>of its gaol. Built in a lofty and healthy spot</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c013'><a href='#t113a'>113</a></td>
+    <td class='c014'>As our goals increase in magnitude, it is</td>
+    <td class='c015'>As our gaols increase in magnitude, it is</td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+
+  <ul  class='ul_1'>
+    <li>Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained.
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+
+</div>
+
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77598 ***</div>
+  </body>
+  <!-- created with ppgen.py 3.57i (with regex) on 2026-01-01 19:12:44 GMT -->
+</html>
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+This book, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for eBook #77598
+(https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/77598)