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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77323 ***
+
+
+
+
+                                 NOTES
+                                 ON THE
+                              WEST INDIES,
+                   INCLUDING OBSERVATIONS RELATIVE TO
+                         THE CREOLES AND SLAVES
+                                 OF THE
+                          =Western Colonies,=
+                                  AND
+                    _THE INDIANS OF SOUTH AMERICA_;
+                       INTERSPERSED WITH REMARKS
+                                  UPON
+                     THE SEASONING OR YELLOW FEVER
+                            OF HOT CLIMATES.
+
+                            SECOND EDITION,
+
+  _With additional Letters from Martinique, Jamaica, and St. Domingo_.
+
+
+                       BY GEORGE PINCKARD, M. D.
+
+                  Of the Royal College of Physicians,
+     Deputy Inspector-General of Hospitals to His Majesty’s Forces,
+                Physician to the Bloomsbury Dispensary,
+                  The London Female Penitentiary, &c.
+
+
+                            IN TWO VOLUMES.
+
+                                VOL. II.
+
+It is a strange thing, that in sea voyages, where there is nothing to be
+seene but sky and sea, men should make diaries; but in land trauaile,
+wherin so much is to bee obserued, for the most part they omit it, as if
+chance were fitter to bee registered than obseruation.
+
+                                                           LORD VERULAM.
+
+                               _LONDON_:
+            PUBLISHED BY MESSRS. BALDWIN, CRADOCK, AND JOY,
+                            PATERNOSTER ROW;
+                    AND L. B. SEELEY, FLEET STREET.
+                                 1816.
+
+S. GOSNELL, Printer, Little Queen Street, London.
+
+
+
+
+                                CONTENTS
+                                   OF
+                           THE SECOND VOLUME.
+
+
+                                LETTER I.
+ _Favorable tidings from Grenada and St. Vincent. An enormous
+   snake. Conversation respecting mermaids_                       Page 1
+
+
+                               LETTER II.
+ _Excursion to Mynheer Roboloski’s plantation Zuidwyk. Character
+   of Mynheer Roboloski. Funeral obsequies of an officer.
+   Depressing effect of such mournful exhibitions_                     5
+
+
+                               LETTER III.
+ _Discordant opinions and mode of treatment relative to “yellow
+   fever.” Undeviating routine followed by the resident
+   practitioners. General remarks respecting a medical life:—its
+   peculiar advantages_                                               13
+
+
+                               LETTER IV.
+ _Dutch method of punishing soldiers for drunkenness. An
+   electrical eel. Visit of a wild-looking party of Indians. The
+   lion-monkey, or schacomynghy. Singular instance of creole
+   pride. Birth-day visit at Mr. Blair’s. Author’s uncertain
+   situation_                                                         22
+
+
+                                LETTER V.
+ _Author’s return to Demarara. Alarming sickness of the troops.
+   Its probable causes_                                               34
+
+
+                               LETTER VI.
+ _Authors removal to Mahaica. Afflicting sickness at that
+   station:—severe professional duties. Situation of Mahaica.
+   Scarcity of fresh provisions_                                      37
+
+
+                               LETTER VII.
+ _Horrid cruelty towards a negro and his wife. Funeral of a
+   murdered slave. Dismay of the murderer. Cruel unconcern of the
+   attorney. Sad consequences of such inhuman treatment_              45
+
+
+                              LETTER VIII.
+ _Sickness of the troops and medical officers at Mahaica. The
+   author officiates as priest. Decease of Captain Heritage.
+   Consultations with the colonial medical practitioners. The
+   trade-wind termed the Doctor. Remarks of “Doctor Bob.”
+   Contemplations of the author on his critical situation.
+   Prophylactic experiment_                                           55
+
+
+                               LETTER IX.
+ _Brilliant appearance of a forest on fire. Visit to Mynheer
+   Bercheych. Description of his person; manners; habits, &c._        63
+
+
+                                LETTER X.
+ _Continued suspense of the author. Fever still rages:—persons
+   chiefly affected. Case of Chapman, a grenadier. A gratifying
+   assemblage of convalescents. Audacity of the people of colour
+   at Mahaica_                                                        79
+
+
+                               LETTER XI.
+ _Return of the author to La Bourgade. Altered type of the
+   fever:—its interchanges. Peculiar fatality among the surgical
+   cases. Loss of a medical assistant. Demarara Gazette_              88
+
+
+                               LETTER XII.
+ _The author attacked with yellow fever. Detail of the symptoms
+   of his case, and the means employed for his recovery_              96
+
+
+                              LETTER XIII.
+ _Kind solicitude of the colonists towards the author. Apparent
+   influence of the tides on fever. Illness and recovery of Mr.
+   Blackader. Gratifying diminution of disease at Mahaica.
+   Striking examples of the character of slaves_                     108
+
+
+                               LETTER XIV.
+ _Interesting situation of the troops. Reinforcement of medical
+   officers from Martinique. Mr. Jordan attacked with fever.
+   Pleasing anticipations of a return to England. Ravages of
+   yellow fever in the islands. Death of Colonel Gammell and of
+   four of the physicians of the windward expedition. Happy
+   effects of the dry season. Range of the thermometer at La
+   Bourgade. Gang of negroes commanded by a female driver.
+   Ludicrous mistake of an English lady_                             115
+
+
+                               LETTER XV.
+ _Author receives communications from England. Afflicting reports
+   from St. Domingo. Apparent instances of the influence of the
+   tides on fever. Remarks on abuses in army economy. Depraved
+   advice concerning conscience_                                     124
+
+
+                               LETTER XVI.
+ _Ludicrous scene of drilling a corps of negroes. Slavery
+   contrasted with military discipline. Altered appearance of the
+   yellow fever. Fatality of wounds and ulcers among Europeans.
+   Extraordinary recovery of a negro. West India custom regarding
+   women of colour. The wet season_                                  127
+
+
+                              LETTER XVII.
+ _Christmas festivities. Orange season. Christmas temperature.
+   Cruel treatment of a mulatto by a Dutchman. A striking case of
+   intermittent fever. Slight effect of grief and dangers upon
+   military men_                                                     140
+
+
+                              LETTER XVIII.
+ _Renewed visit to M. Bercheych. The ant-eater. Peculiar nests of
+   birds and ants. Visit of M. Bercheych at Fort St. Andrew:—of a
+   party of Indians_                                                 146
+
+
+                               LETTER XIX.
+ _Decease and funeral of Mr. Newland. Dutch prejudice in favour
+   of usage. Effect of fresh provisions upon the sick_               154
+
+
+                               LETTER XX.
+ _Mr. Beete’s case of fever:—its coincidence with the
+   spring-tides. Festivities on the Queen’s birth-day. Excessive
+   dancing of the ladies. A Dutch lady’s supper. Foreign custom
+   of carrying away provisions. Happy reduction of the sick list_    158
+
+
+                               LETTER XXI.
+ _Essequibo attacked by the Spaniards. Opinion of slaves
+   respecting freedom:—respecting crimes and punishments.
+   Repeated attack of yellow fever upon the same person. Creole
+   officers less efficient than European_                            165
+
+
+                              LETTER XXII.
+ _Gratitude of a slave. Extravagant hire of mechanics. Pleasant
+   approach of the dry season. Absence of morning lassitude.
+   Effect of climate on Europeans_                                   173
+
+
+                              LETTER XXIII.
+ _Excursion of a party of planters up the river Demarara.
+   Kamonuy—Woratilla—and Mabeira creeks. Peculiar stillness of
+   the forest. Arrival of the party at Mr. Edmonstone’s solitary
+   abode_                                                            178
+
+
+                              LETTER XXIV.
+ _A wood-walk from Mr. Edmonstone’s. Hasty removal of an Indian
+   family. Eccentric character of an aged Scotsman. Journey
+   through the forest to the Sand-hill. Scenery—temperature—and
+   inhospitality at the “Sand-hill” estate_                          187
+
+
+                               LETTER XXV.
+ _The “Loo” estate, contrasted with the “Sand-hill.” A
+   petit-maître in the forest. A wood-cutter’s cottage. A novel
+   specimen of the labour of slaves. Improved scenery. Character
+   and habits of Pezano, an old Spaniard. Arrival and reception
+   of the party at “Ooest Vriesland”_                                196
+
+
+                              LETTER XXVI.
+ _Journey from “Ooest Vriesland” to “the falls:”—the latter
+   described. Memorandum of the excursion. Surprise of the
+   slaves. Return of the party. Temperature at Ooest Vriesland.
+   Laba pepper-pot. Severe, but cheerful labour of the slaves.
+   Excessive cold at the “Loo.” The Cockswain’s address in urging
+   on the slaves_                                                    208
+
+
+                              LETTER XXVII.
+ _“Garden-Eden” plantation. Account of an extraordinary mulatto.
+   Arrival of the party at Stabroek. General remarks concerning
+   the excursion_                                                    218
+
+
+                             LETTER XXVIII.
+ _The author loses his horse:—is ordered to St. Domingo. Unhappy
+   tidings from thence. Reflections upon the subject_                232
+
+
+                              LETTER XXIX.
+ _The Stadtholder’s birth-day. Conduct of a soi-disant patriot.
+   Tedious voyage of the “Cotton-planter.” Account of a white
+   negro:—of a piebald negress_                                      235
+
+
+                               LETTER XXX.
+ _Anecdotes of “Princess Changuion.” March, a healthy period.
+   Arrival of hospital stores. Observations on the new
+   regulations for surgeons:—on the confused titles of medical
+   officers_                                                         245
+
+
+                              LETTER XXXI.
+ _Reflections on the anniversary of the author’s arrival in
+   Guiana. Remarks upon the rainy season. Dr. E’s observations
+   concerning fever. “Lusignan” plantation:—its prolific garden_     252
+
+
+                              LETTER XXXII.
+ _General observations concerning Demarara_                          258
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXIII.
+ _Indian specimens shipped for London. Importance of Government
+   rations. Novel scene of slavery. Unhappy report of the
+   surgical invalids. Indications of the return of the wet
+   season_                                                           282
+
+
+                              LETTER XXXIV.
+ _Author’s farewell from Guiana:—he anticipates many
+   gratifications at St. Domingo:—promises to continue his
+   “Notes”_                                                          287
+
+
+                              LETTER XXXV.
+ _Authors voyage to Martinique. View of St. Vincent and St.
+   Lucie. Coasting view of Martinique. Beautiful approach to St.
+   Pierre. Description of the town—its population—its
+   accommodations_                                                   289
+
+
+                              LETTER XXXVI.
+ _Demarara hospital reports approved at head-quarters. Fort Royal
+   and its harbour. Mode of travelling between St. Pierre and
+   Fort Royal. Military hospital, “La Charité.” Remarks on fever.
+   Mortality among the medical officers_                             300
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXVII.
+ _Martinique returns, not a just criterion, respecting disease.
+   Account of Martinique—its scenery—temperature—female
+   population. French vivacity not confined to Europe.
+   Guadaloupe, the Circassia of the West Indies. Visit to
+   Chasse-pilote. Funeral of a child of colour:—of a white
+   Catholic. Sale of Negroes. Conduct of a party of captured
+   slaves. Martinique theatre_                                       307
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXVIII.
+ _Supposed indications of peace. Visit to Mr. Dornford’s country
+   residence. Père Edouard—his treatment of fever—his remarks on
+   English practitioners. Birth-day ball. Contrast between French
+   and English females. A supper scene. Martinique contrasted
+   with the colonies of Guiana. French treatment and punishment
+   of slaves. Importance of the distinction of colour with regard
+   to slavery. Cruel punishment of a negro, by a Dutchman_           318
+
+
+                              LETTER XXXIX.
+ _Wet season at Martinique. Musquitoes. Ceremony of La Fête de
+   Dieu_                                                             336
+
+
+                               LETTER XL.
+ _French frivolity. Decease of Mr. Dornford_                         346
+
+
+                               LETTER XLI.
+ _Author detained at Martinique. Character of slaves. Example of
+   tyranny in a woman of colour. Mode of feeding mules. Frogs
+   exposed for sale. Noyeau. Remuneration of medical
+   practitioners_                                                    353
+
+
+                              LETTER XLII.
+ _Author embarks for Jamaica. Anticipation the only comfort at
+   sea. The packet chased by a privateer. Ludicrous conduct of
+   the passengers. View of Jamaica. Arrival at Port-Royal:—its
+   extreme heat. Kingston. Appearance of the people of colour.
+   Example of negro-labour_                                          363
+
+
+                              LETTER XLIII.
+ _Visit to Spanish town. The road—scenery—traffic. Friendly
+   attention of Dr. Lind. Spanish town and environs. Prevalence
+   of Spanish costume. Villas and “pens.” English aspect of
+   Kingston Common. Temperature of Kingston—Fruits plentiful and
+   delicious. Turtle:—use of their shells. Tavern
+   accommodations:—lodgings. Contending opinions concerning
+   fever_                                                            373
+
+
+                              LETTER XLIV.
+ _Author embarks for St. Domingo. Interesting visit at
+   Port-Royal. A midnight visit at sea. A distressing calm. The
+   extreme of tropical temperature. The sloop chased by a
+   privateer. View of Cuba:—of Cape St. Nicholas. Adventurous
+   boat excursion to the Mole_                                       384
+
+
+                               LETTER XLV.
+ _Grief and disappointments of the author on arriving at St.
+   Domingo. He prepares to proceed to Port au Prince. The Mole
+   and its environs. Quarters and mess of the hospital staff.
+   Occasional scarcity of fresh provisions. A sandy valley
+   converted into a prolific garden_                                 394
+
+
+                              LETTER XLVI.
+ _Voyage to Port au Prince. Inspection of convalescents. Peter
+   Porcupine’s works. Unblushing confidence of French females.
+   Remarks on the women of colour of Cape François and Port au
+   Prince. Daring attacks of the brigands. Hostile out-posts
+   viewed from the sea. Author’s observations on his
+   arrival:—waits upon the Commander in chief_                       401
+
+
+                              LETTER XLVII.
+ _A morning scene at Port au Prince. Dr. Jackson:—his friendly
+   attention to the author:—his dwelling:—his mode of life:—his
+   opinion concerning fever. New arrangements of the hospital
+   department:—objections against it. Sequels of the fever, and
+   heat of climate. Opinions of the medical officers at Port au
+   Prince, concerning the yellow fever. Comparative effect of the
+   fever upon a party of artillery-men—and the crew of the ship
+   Bangalore_                                                        411
+
+
+                             LETTER XLVIII.
+ _Temperature in different colonies. Example of the effect of
+   heat upon the author. Influenza at St. Domingo. Remarks upon
+   the site chosen for towns. Supply of water at Port au Prince.
+   Use of horses and mules for labour. Scarcity of carriages,
+   “pens,” villas, &c. French passion for gaming, dress, and
+   dancing. Vauxhall, at Port au Prince_                             419
+
+
+                              LETTER XLIX.
+ _Situation and construction of Port au Prince:—government-house.
+   Bathing in the French colonies. Superiority of the capital and
+   of the females of colour at Martinique. Rude custom of the
+   French at the table d’hôte. Provisions at Port au
+   Prince—dinner—breakfast. The avaga pear_                          428
+
+
+                                LETTER L.
+ _Military expedition from Port au Prince. The Croix des
+   Bouquets. The plain of the Cul de Sac. Example of the effect
+   of the French levelling decree_                                   434
+
+
+                               LETTER LI.
+ _Voyage to the Mole. Embarkation occurrences. Shameful system of
+   plunder. The French women of colour. Singular liberality of
+   John Bull. Audacity of the brigands:—expedition of the Lively
+   sloop against them_                                               439
+
+
+                               LETTER LII.
+ _Cases of yellow fever at sea. Action of the Pelican brig with a
+   French privateer. Liberal accommodations of the naval
+   hospital. Use of turtles for the sick. Sterile appearance of
+   the Mole. Author’s intended visit to the United States_           447
+
+
+                              LETTER LIII.
+ _A summary account of the slaves, and state of slavery in the
+   West India colonies_                                              454
+
+
+                               LETTER LIV.
+ _General observations on the seasoning, or yellow fever of hot
+   climates_                                                         467
+
+
+                               LETTER LV.
+ _A brief account of the former and present state of St. Domingo_    492
+
+
+                                APPENDIX.
+ _A proposal for the emancipation of the slaves in the British
+   settlements in the West Indies_                                   525
+
+
+
+
+                                 NOTES
+
+                                 _&c._
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER I.
+
+
+                                                   Berbische, July 1796.
+
+I am too sensible, my friend, that in my noting communication regarding
+our late excursion, I was led into minutiæ, which might be more tedious
+than entertaining: but as my pen was my companion in the deep woods, and
+as I thought to you, while marking each circumstance on the spot, where
+it occurred, I knew not what part to suppress, and therefore hazarded a
+severe trial of your patience by imposing upon you the task of perusing
+the whole; yet not without a hope that, as the mode of travelling, and
+every thing connecting with the journey, differed, totâ facie, from what
+is common in Europe, the novelty might in some measure compensate the
+wearisome narration.
+
+You will readily conceive the avidity with which our comrades demanded
+an account of our proceedings. They crowded round us upon our arrival,
+besieging us with vollies of interrogatories, and eagerly listening to
+our recitals. Every one had something new to ask, and from the varied
+forms of nearly similar questions, the two or three first days were
+mostly spent in repeating the details of our excursion.
+
+We were equally solicitous to learn the news from the Islands, and from
+England, but were disappointed in all our inquiries, no intelligence
+having reached the colony during our absence. Since our return a vessel
+has arrived from Barbadoes, with the happy tidings that our troops have
+subdued the brigands and the Charibs of Grenada and St. Vincent, and
+that these islands are restored to order and tranquillity.
+
+I should not omit telling you that I had an opportunity a few days since
+of seeing one of the race of enormous snakes, which you read of as
+infesting these colonies. It was killed near the town of New Amsterdam,
+was twelve feet long, and about the thickness of a man’s thigh. To the
+Europeans who were present, it appeared a very large and hideous
+reptile; but neither the colonists, nor the negroes considered it of
+extraordinary size, for we learn that they are sometimes seen more than
+twice as large, and upwards of thirty feet in length.
+
+I wish I could relate to you a conversation which I heard at the
+governor’s lately on the subject of mermaids. It was maintained that
+these lady-like animals, of fabulous note, do really exist in the
+Berbische river, and I experienced some surprise, when I heard the
+governor, who is a sensible and intelligent man, give his sanction to
+the opinion. Often (it was insisted) _very_ often had they been seen;
+and on my asking the gentlemen who advanced the assertion, if it was by
+their own eyes, they replied, “No! but repeatedly by Indians, by
+negroes, and by whites;” and they seemed to think it established beyond
+a doubt, that these scaly _poissardes_ did actually inhabit the waters
+of this country. One of them, it was said, had been taken alive, by an
+Indian, who was carrying it to Savonette as a present to M. Heynemann;
+but from the prejudices of his nation, whose superstition protects these
+animals, the man was compelled, by others of the Indians, to return her
+to the river, lest the enraged mother should haunt them with every
+species of ill.
+
+A planter who was present, observing that the officers were still
+unconfirmed in their faith, added a species of testimony which he seemed
+to think even the most incredulous could not resist. “Nothing,” said he,
+“is more certain than that mermaids do exist in the rivers of Guiana,
+for I know a navy officer who has not only seen them alive, but who
+actually ate of one, which had been cooked and served up for the table.”
+This he considered as “confirmation strong;” but as neither this
+gentleman nor any of the others had seen or eaten of these fish-ladies
+themselves, however it might border upon a breach of politeness, it was
+no contradiction of the assertions made by them, not to be convinced by
+the same reports, which had confirmed their belief: we therefore
+continue ... to doubt!
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER II.
+
+
+                                                     Berbische, July 12.
+
+You will be surprised to hear of my having already made another river
+excursion; but I before mentioned to you that we had intended visiting
+the estate of Mynheer Roboloski, on our return from M. Heynemann’s: not
+being able to effect it then, and afterwards receiving a pressing
+renewal of the invitation by some friends of M. Roboloski, who came to
+pass a day with the officers at the fort, I availed myself of the
+opportunity of returning with these gentlemen, in company with Captain
+Maxwell. We dined on our way, at the plantation Zuidwyk; one of the most
+pleasant and improved spots on the bank of the river. M. Linde, the
+gentleman we went to see, was indisposed, but he was inspired with
+health on seeing a party of unexpected visitors, and entertained us with
+all the glad welcome of the colony, most cordially inviting us to
+prolong our visit.
+
+Zuidwyk is a coffee plantation. It is well cultivated, and rich in
+fruits. The house is spacious, and, standing at a pleasant distance from
+the river, with the ground ornamented and improved, it not only appears
+respectable, but conveys the idea of importance.
+
+We were most gladly received by M. Roboloski, who, in his attentions
+towards us, seemed anxious to rival all the friendly hospitality we had
+experienced. Every mark of distinction and respect was conferred upon
+us, and a liberal supply of all the best things of the house and estate
+was served for our entertainment. When we were at table, slaves were
+placed at our elbows to wave lime-boughs, in order to defend us from the
+insects; and, in the evening, we were set down to cards with two or
+three negroes burning lime-sprigs around us, while others were placed
+with green branches to chase away the musquitoes, as well as to serve us
+with copious libations from an adjoining table, which was spread with
+wine, punch, sangaree, and various rich liqueurs. At going to bed, and
+at rising, slaves attended us with water for our feet, and were strictly
+enjoined to kneel down, and wash them: nor were we suffered to encounter
+_the fatigue_ of stooping, or permitted to wet our hands in so humble an
+office.
+
+It happened that I expressed a desire to make the tour of the estate, in
+order to observe its extent and cultivation. The wish scarcely had
+utterance before orders were given for the favorite horse of M.
+Roboloski to be brought to the door. I had intended myself a pedestrian
+ramble, but was not permitted to engage in such “excessive fatigue.” Old
+grey was quickly led out, and appeared before the window; when the
+process of putting on the best saddle, “for Mynheer,” and arranging the
+gay trappings became the business of no less than six slaves, and
+occupied them for nearly an hour and a half, forming a truly diverting
+and ludicrous scene. The head, the neck, each side, and the very tail of
+the animal had its appropriate negro. The bridle, the crupper, the
+girths and stirrups, each occupied a separate slave, all hurrying in the
+full bustle of attentive exertion. At length the ponderous saddle was
+miserably fixed, and, without attempting to instruct the master or
+correct the slaves, I mounted upon _the neck_ of old grey, and soberly
+trotted round the plantation. At every angle or turning I met with a
+fresh slave who had been stationed there in readiness to run after my
+horse, and to direct and attend me whithersoever I might wish to bend my
+way: but as neither old grey nor myself, were inclined to advance with
+great speed, all my running footmen were able to keep pace with me, so
+that before I had completed my journey, I had collected quite a host of
+attendants, and found myself moving amidst a naked and numerous throng.
+
+Together with a natural sprightliness, and vivacity of temper, M.
+Roboloski is generous and hospitable to an extreme. All that was rare
+was presented to us while we remained; besides which, numberless
+offerings were heaped upon us at our departure, and he would have given
+us more than we could carry away. The whole produce of his house and
+estate: all he had, his _Wowski_ excepted, was at our command. On
+leaving him he loaded us with fruits, pickles, Tonquin beans, and other
+good things; and it was with difficulty that we prevented him from
+depriving himself of even the comforts of his home for our
+accommodation. Towards his slaves he is extremely rigid, and holds them
+in very strict subjection; but, with the many good qualities he
+possesses, it cannot be suspected that cruelty has any share in his
+government. Unhappily, with the most liberal and generous nature, he has
+an unfortunate disposition which torments him with all the harrowing
+pangs of a dark and imbittering passion. Kind and attentive as he is
+both to his friends and to strangers, he knows neither peace, nor
+comfort, whilst they are in the house, from his mind being incessantly
+tortured with the dread suspicion that a disgusting black woman, whom he
+keeps as his wife, may be seized with a fit of inconstancy, and share
+her joys with others. He, therefore, locks her up stairs while his
+visitors are with him, and keeps the key of the door in his pocket. To
+such excess, indeed, does he carry his jealousy, as to employ a young
+slave in the house, for the express purpose of watching the poor hideous
+woman’s conduct, and reporting to him every look and action.
+
+The day after our return from M. Roboloski’s, we witnessed one of the
+great and awful scenes of a West India climate—one of those convulsions
+of the weather, which convey the idea of enraged elements warring to
+reduce all nature again to chaos. It is not easy for any one, who is
+acquainted only with the soft breezes and showers of Europe, to conceive
+the terrific grandeur which is sometimes exhibited by a storm within the
+tropics.
+
+Another very grand, but awful and afflicting scene has occurred to our
+notice in the funeral obsequies of one of our comrades; an officer of
+artillery, who had suffered an attack of yellow fever, and from exposing
+himself to fatigue and late hours during his convalescence, brought on a
+relapse which quickly deprived his country of his services, and us of
+his society. Warlike honors were done to his remains. The funeral was
+conducted with all the splendid and heart-moving parade of a military
+procession; which forms one of the most awful ceremonies that the eye or
+imagination can contemplate; but under the circumstances of our present
+situation it is too solemnly impressive to be practised without the risk
+of injury; for I have had occasion to remark that, in its effects, it
+threatens ills beyond the wholesome grief of the moment. The
+associations arising from the gloomy spectacle operate so powerfully
+upon the minds of those who are fearful of disease, as to endanger
+serious illness. The slow march, with the arms of war inverted; the
+doleful music; the sable hollow-sounding drum; and the thrice-vollied
+farewell, added to the common rites of sepulture, augment the
+distressful feelings natural to the occasion, and beget a degree of
+melancholy which not only sinks the soul with grief, but reduces the
+body within the pale of disease; and hence, although it be a grand and
+honorable observance, which may be attended with beneficial effects at
+certain times, or under certain circumstances, it would appear to be too
+dispiriting to be indiscriminately exhibited on service, particularly in
+a climate where the body is highly predisposed to sickness, and the mind
+held in a state of depression from the sudden and multiplied ravages of
+disease; and where the sense of honor which attaches to the ceremony is
+more than counterbalanced by the sad impression that the person who
+views it may, in the course of only a few hours, be himself the
+unconscious object of similar parade.
+
+Two of the officers who attended the funeral, although as brave men as
+ever unsheathed a sword, were thrown into a state of despondency which
+nearly cost them their lives. Overwhelmed with grief for the fate of
+their comrade, and fearfully apprehensive of disease, the afflicting
+ceremony produced a degree of depression from which they had no power of
+rallying. All their military spirit, and manly firmness were subdued,
+and under the weight of inconsolable sadness, they were rapidly sinking
+into a state of sickness, from which they felt hopeless of recovery. One
+of them, who with the spirit of the lion, possesses the heart of a lamb,
+being wholly unable to suppress the overflowings of his sorrow, was seen
+day by day to shed tears, like an infant. Change of place became
+necessary to their relief; they were accordingly permitted to quit the
+fort for a time, and happily by diversity of scene, and absence from the
+grief-exciting spot, the dangers which threatened them were averted, and
+their usual health and spirits restored.
+
+The wet season is now declining, and we are led to look for much
+increase of sickness during the subsequent months.
+
+Not to fatigue you with a minute detail of the appearances, on the
+examination of our lost comrade, I may briefly observe that in the
+stomach they have hitherto been uniform, but in the other viscera very
+uncertain and dissimilar. With respect to the symptoms of the disorder,
+we now discover much instability. Either vomiting, low delirium,
+singultus, or coma, with or without yellowness of the skin, forms the
+prominent feature—each in its turn seeming to give the character of a
+distinct disease; but all terminating, within a few days, in the usual
+manner.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER III.
+
+
+                                                        Berbische, July.
+
+The unhappy loss of our comrade, mentioned to you in my last letter, has
+been productive of much discussion on the subject of yellow fever. The
+governor is fond of reading medical books, and feels a strong interest
+regarding the diseases of the troops, and the maladies arising from the
+climate. He takes great pleasure in bringing professional men together,
+and in promoting medical conversations. Gladly I avail myself of the
+advantages to be derived from this propensity, and through the means of
+Mynheer Van Battenburg have frequent opportunities of hearing the
+remarks and opinions of the most eminent practitioners in the colony;
+but I find that they have established one undeviating routine of
+treatment. Emetics and the bark are prescribed in all cases of fever;
+and they insist upon the peculiar efficacy of these remedies in that
+species or degree commonly called “yellow fever.” This doctrine, so
+generally and positively asserted by the professional residents, is in
+direct opposition to the experience of the medical officers of our army,
+who, in this disease, have constantly found emetics injurious, and bark,
+in the early stages, useless. I have been at much pains therefore to
+reconcile the observations with fact; and as the opinions respecting the
+remedies were so directly at variance, I was anxious to satisfy myself
+with regard to the identity of the disease; hence, in order to
+ascertain, correctly, whether we were treating the same complaint, I
+requested several of the medical men of the colony to visit the patients
+in the military hospital; and begged of them to allow me to see some of
+the sick inhabitants of the town. This proposal being accepted, the
+cause of the difference of opinion, and of treatment soon became
+obvious; for it was ascertained that while we were contending with the
+_continued_ fever of Europeans but lately arrived, they were prescribing
+for the _remittent_ fever of the colonists. They candidly admitted that
+the disease in the hospital differed from the fever which they commonly
+treated; and one of the most eminent of them, who had been, during
+twelve years, in busy employment in the colony, acknowledged that, in
+the whole course of his practice, he had met with only _five cases_ of
+what he now termed “_genuine yellow fever_.”
+
+One of the persons whom I had the opportunity of visiting was the
+patient of Dr. S. who now discovered that he had seen only five cases of
+yellow fever within the period of a dozen years. I found that he was
+treating this gentleman with bark, per os atque per anum, without
+assisting it with opium, wine, or any of the other stimulants, or
+aromatics usually employed: but it was evidently a case of the remittent
+fever of the country. The patient, who was very dangerously ill, happily
+recovered, and notwithstanding my own opinion that he might have been
+cured with more facility, by a smaller quantity of the bark, if it had
+been combined with opium, wine, or the like, still I was indebted to the
+doctor for the opportunity which this case afforded me of witnessing the
+very ample and persevering adhibition of this valuable remedy by the
+Dutch practitioners.
+
+One of the colonial doctors who visited our late comrade, during his
+short illness, termed his disease a “pituitous fever;” but still he
+recommended emetics and bark as the cure. If these remedies were as
+extensively useful, as might be inferred from the opinions of the
+gentlemen practising in this colony, the crowded contents of our
+medicine-chests might be conveniently reduced to two simple packages of
+bark and emetic tartar! Probably the patients who come under the care of
+these practitioners are, for the most part, creoles, or persons who have
+become creolised, in whom the disease usually assumes the remittent
+type, and who very seldom, if ever, have it in the aggravated form which
+constitutes the yellow fever.
+
+While I am upon the subject of medicine you will forgive me if I should
+extend this letter by offering you a few remarks respecting a medical
+life. You are not unacquainted with the many inconveniences and
+afflictions which attach to the practice of the profession, and you will
+be pleased to know that these are in some measure counterbalanced by
+peculiar and exclusive advantages. Medical men are commonly regarded as
+persons of social habits and sentiments. Often they are viewed as a
+privileged race, and the term _doctor_ serves as a general passport,
+insuring a degree of affability, and freedom of intercourse. Not
+unfrequently they are indebted to it for friendly civilities, to which
+they could have no sort of personal claim, and, on account of it, they
+sometimes experience a more distinguished attention than falls to the
+lot of others.
+
+A medical man is made to feel himself at home in every house. He is
+scarcely admitted as a stranger, before he is considered as a kind of
+confidential acquaintance, and received, as it were, into the bosom of
+the family. Wheresoever fortune may place him, he is never out of the
+line of his profession; and it is peculiarly in his power, at all times
+and in all situations, to contribute to the comfort or relief of his
+fellow-beings. Like the word _brother_ in masonry, the term _doctor_
+conveys an idea of universal friendship and philanthropy. Even as the
+brotherhood of the trowel, too, ours is a wide and ancient fraternity,
+and we, like them, soon become known to each other. We also seek those
+of our own order, and associate in cordial fellowship wherever we meet.
+Moreover, if general benevolence and the good of mankind be their
+object, so is it equally ours; and to continue the similitude, perhaps
+you will say that, like theirs, our signs and forms are concealed and
+private. But let us not pursue the parallel, lest we betray secrets,
+never to be revealed.
+
+In the West Indies, and particularly on service with the army, the
+medical officers are found to have many advantages; for, in every ship,
+with every regiment, and almost at every plantation, they find a
+professional brother who in the most friendly way promotes their
+comfort, and kindly seeks to procure them accommodation. On this head I
+speak with much satisfaction, being able, from personal experience, to
+bear testimony to a general spirit of amity, and an uniform practice of
+good offices, on the part of my brethren.
+
+At most of the West India plantations some member of our fraternity is
+either resident, or in occasional attendance, as the physician, surgeon,
+and intimate friend of the household. He is usually a person of
+influence, and whenever a medical officer of the army visits the estate,
+_the doctor_, interesting himself for his professional brother, quickly
+makes him acquainted with the family, and procures him all the
+facilities of social intercourse. This I have many times experienced;
+and, by means of the medical attendant, have not unfrequently been
+regarded as the _friend_ of the house, before my military comrades had
+ceased to be considered as _strangers_!
+
+These may appear only as trifles to you, who daily indulge amidst the
+luxuries of England, and can hourly command the supplies and
+conveniences of all-prolific London; but they, who have known the hard
+lot of privation, will tell you that these little circumstances are
+often very important on service, particularly to those who are employed
+on distant and foreign stations.
+
+Many other privileges might be enumerated as peculiar to medical men, or
+attaching to their professional occupation, some even amidst the bloody
+strife of war; for although balls and bullets show no distinction in the
+field, still, not his friends only, but the enemy likewise inclines to
+protect, rather than to injure the _doctor_, for his is a kind and
+tender duty, and extends alike to all. It belongs not to him to
+discriminate. The _effect_ of the battle alone concerns him: he has
+nothing to do with the cause! If a suffering object appear, it is no
+question whether he be a friend or a foe: he languishes, and is
+therefore entitled to his care; for it is his to stop the gushing
+streams of life, and to pour a healing balm into the wounds of afflicted
+humanity, in whatever breast she bleed.
+
+In his command a medical man is absolute, and without control. Indeed
+nothing can be more arbitrary than medical government. The doctor is
+even more despotic than the mightiest chief. Passive obedience is his
+first law: he dictates in positive terms, and exacts the most rigid
+submission. Nor will this seem unreasonable, when it is recollected that
+the general’s authority regards only life, while the doctor’s concerns
+both life, and, ... still more important, health!
+
+Perhaps you will pardon my pen in proceeding one step further, to notice
+the very highest gratification and best reward of a medical life: in
+comparison of which all the honors, privileges, and advantages above
+alluded to, are light as the dying breeze. It may be remarked that the
+duties of a medical man are arduous and important beyond all other
+occupations. Constant fatigue and anxiety are his lot. The health of
+others is his care; and he is often intrusted with the lives and
+happiness of those united by the nearest and dearest ties. Unbounded
+confidence is reposed in him, and if his anxious exertions are crowned
+with success, he is hailed as saviour, father, and friend! His time is
+at the public command. Not a moment is securely his own: daily and
+hourly he is called upon to witness the most heart-rending scenes of
+affliction, and it is his peculiar lot to be sought only in the hour of
+danger; whence his whole life is spent in the house of woe. But, happily
+for the humane and zealous mind, even these duties have their reward. On
+service, if a soldier or a sailor be relieved, gratitude attaches him to
+his doctor’s interest, and he is ever afterwards secure of his aid and
+protection. He will fight in his defence, and expose himself to every
+danger for his safety. But it is in private life, and in the more
+retired paths of the profession, that the feeling heart meets its
+genuine return: for to relieve a suffering object from distress—to check
+the sad ravages of disease—to restore an affectionate and beloved
+parent, or a duteous child from the bed of sickness, and thereby to
+dispel the cloud of sorrow, or wipe away the tear of affliction; and
+then to receive the heart-felt thanks and blessings of a grateful
+family, is a consolation which none but medical men can know! This it is
+that reconciles the anxious toils of the profession:—that forms the high
+compensation of our labours; and the happiest reward of our cares!
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER IV.
+
+
+                                                     Berbische, July 22.
+
+Without the opportunity of knowing whether my frequent notes have
+already provoked your repentance, my pen continues to direct to you its
+offerings.
+
+I have been lately on a visit to the governor at New Amsterdam, and had
+there an opportunity of witnessing the Dutch mode of punishing soldiers
+for drunkenness; which is by making them run the gauntlet between two
+ranks of their comrades, so placed as for each to give the offender a
+stripe upon his bare back, every time that he passes. The punishment was
+conducted in the following manner: a party of about forty of the
+soldiers, with fixed bayonets, were drawn out upon parade, in open rank,
+and standing front to front, forming a kind of alley closed at each end.
+With-inside, between the ranks, were stationed the drum-major, and the
+prisoner, the latter stripped of his coat, waistcoat, and shirt, and
+with his hands tied before him. On a signal being given by beat of drum,
+its major, dignified with bearing a majestic staff in his hand,
+commenced his parade, in slow march, up and down the alley, the prisoner
+closely following behind, who received a stripe from each of the
+soldiers, with a fresh-gathered twig, every time that he went and
+returned. Several drum-boys were placed at the outside of the ranks with
+small bundles of sticks, in order to renew the supply, when any one
+chanced to break. Non-commissioned officers were also stationed at the
+back of the ranks provided with canes, for the purpose of transferring
+any stripes to the soldiers which they might neglect to give to the
+prisoner, or to place upon their own shoulders any deficiencies which
+might arise from their not exerting a due strength of arm.
+
+In this manner was the man marched and flogged, flogged and marched, up
+and down, at the heel of the drum-major, until he had received many
+hundreds of lashes, and his bruised back exhibited one frightfully black
+surface, from his neck down to the waistband of his breeches. No blood
+was spilt, nor perhaps was the pain quite so acute as it commonly is
+from our cat o’ nine tails; but the sadly beaten skin, swoln with
+blackness, was not less distressing to the sight than a more
+blood-stained wound, and possibly even more difficult of cure. Several
+drums were beat in loud roll during the whole time of the punishment,
+which served to drown the cries of the sufferer, while it increased the
+military parade of the scene.
+
+It was somewhat remarkable that, at the very moment of this
+chastisement, one of our own soldiers came reeling along in drunken
+gambols, tumbling against the very ranks employed to inflict the penalty
+of his own crime. On seeing what they were doing, he stammered out in
+broken accent, “That’s right, _camarades_; give it him; lay it on, boys;
+make him smart for it; a drunken _Yaa—well!_ cut close; lay it in deep;
+make him remember it, a drunken Dutch dog!” He was not aware how soon it
+was likely to be laid much _deeper_ into his own back. The captain of
+his company happened to be present, and immediately ordered him into
+confinement in the guard-house, preparatory to being led forth, at a
+more sober moment, to a severer punishment, perhaps, than that which had
+so amused him in his cups.
+
+The Governor has a large electric eel, which he has kept for several
+years in a tub, made for that purpose, placed under a small shed near to
+the house. This fish possesses strong electrical powers, and often
+causes scenes of diversion among the soldiers and sailors, who are
+struck with astonishment at its qualities, and believe it to be in
+league with some evil spirit. Two sailors, wholly unacquainted with the
+properties of the animal, were one day told to fetch an eel, which was
+lying in the tub in the yard, and give it the cook to dress for dinner.
+It is a strong fish of seven or eight pounds weight, and gives a severe
+shock on being touched, particularly if at all irritated or enraged. The
+sailors had no sooner reached the shed, than one of them plunged his
+hand to the bottom of the tub to seize the eel; when he received a blow
+which benumbed his whole arm: without knowing what it was, he started
+from the tub shaking his fingers, and holding his elbow with his other
+hand, crying out, “Damme, Jack, what a thump he fetched me with his
+tail!” His messmate laughing at “such a foolish notion,” next put down
+his hand to reach out the eel, but receiving a similar shock, he snapped
+his fingers likewise, and ran off crying out, “Damme, he did give you a
+thump! He’s a fighting fellow: he has fetched me a broadside too! Let’s
+both have a haul at him together, Jack, then we shall board his d——d
+slippery carcass, spite of his rudder.” Accordingly they each plunged
+their hands into the tub, and seized the fish, by a full grasp round the
+body. This was rougher treatment than he commonly experienced, and he
+returned it with a most violent shock, which soon caused them to quit
+their hold. For a moment they stood aghast, then rubbing their arms,
+holding their elbows, and shaking their fingers, they capered about with
+pain and amazement, swearing that their arms were broken, and that it
+was the devil in the tub in the shape of an eel. They now perceived that
+it was not a simple blow of the tail, which they had felt before; nor
+could they be prevailed upon to try again to take out the fish, but
+stole away rubbing their elbows, and cursing “the trick about the cook
+and the eel.”
+
+You have, no doubt, seen drawings of this fish, and have met with
+preparations of it in the different museums and collections of the
+curious. Its form is not so round as that of the common eel. The head is
+flatter, as is likewise the tail, and much broader; the sides are less
+convex and deeper; the back is wide, and the body tapers down somewhat
+abruptly, terminating at the belly in a thin membrane, forming a kind of
+fin. I have preserved the skin of one, which I hope to show you in
+England at the end of the war. The shock communicated is sometimes very
+powerful, and precisely resembles that from the electrical machine. I
+have received it both from contact, and by means of conductors. The fish
+at Governor Van Battenburg’s once gave me a severe blow from touching
+it, in the water, with the end of a polished ramrod belonging to one of
+the soldiers’ firelocks.
+
+We were, yesterday, visited at the fort by a party of the
+wildest-looking Indians I have yet seen. Sixteen came down the river in
+one canoe, forming an unusually fierce and romantic group. The men had
+their skins painted in various odd figures, some with red, others with
+black and red; and some had a thin small plate of silver, hung by way of
+ornament from the nose. A custom also prevailed among the women of this
+party, which we had not before observed. They wore in their ears thick
+pieces of wood, of the size and shape of a common wine-bottle cork, not
+suspended to the part, nor hanging by a ring, but pushed through a large
+hole, cut in the substance of the ear itself.
+
+This party was less cordial with us, than many who had preceded them.
+They also made their visit shorter. We procured from them some Indian
+baskets, and some bows and arrows. I had likewise an opportunity of
+purchasing a small lion-monkey, called _Schacomynghy_, to supply the
+place of a most beautiful one which I had brought down the river, from
+the Indian village near Savonette, and which had lately died.
+
+The Schacomynghy is a very handsome playful little fellow. He is the
+smallest of the monkey tribe, being considerably less than the common
+squirrel of England, and in weight not more than five or six ounces. He
+perches very commodiously upon a person’s fore-finger; or will run up
+the side of a quart bottle and take his seat very conveniently at the
+top, amusing himself with putting down his little hand to taste the wine
+or water, or whatever may be contained within. His colour is nearly
+black, with sometimes a slight mixture of dark grey: the tail is longer
+than his body. His neck is covered with thick, long, and bushy hair,
+like the full mane of the lion, whence the name of _lion-monkey_, by
+which he is commonly known. His face is oval, approaching to circular,
+and his features are less disgusting than is usual among the monkey
+tribe; the ears are smooth and round, and without hair. He is a very
+delicate animal, and extremely susceptible of cold; even in this climate
+he will creep into the folds of the bedclothes, or with-inside the bed
+for warmth. His kennel is a coco-nut shell, his bed a little cotton, put
+within it, which he seems to enjoy, without feeling oppressed by heat or
+closeness.
+
+You would not pardon me, if I were to omit noting a fact which occurred
+to my observation during my visit at New Amsterdam. In company with some
+of the officers I went to make a morning call at the house of one of the
+most respectable inhabitants of the town; and whilst we were sitting
+with the lady of the family, a fine black child, about a year old,
+strayed into the room; where she trotted round, looking and smiling with
+innocent playfulness at each of the party. Diverted with the naked
+little _Pickaninny_, I took her upon my knee, and danced her about for
+some time; then led her out at the door, to give her to a young mulatto
+woman, one of the slaves of the house, whom I saw sitting in the hall.
+On offering the child to this copper-skinned lady, she darted a
+repulsive look and turned from me. Not aware of the cause of this, I
+lifted up the infant, to place it upon her knee, when she indignantly
+pushed the poor babe away. I still repeated the attempt, endeavouring to
+make her comprehend that I wished to have the child taken from me: but
+no! she continued to thrust her away with increased indignation.
+Surprised at this conduct, and wholly unable to account for it, I led my
+little naked female back into the parlour, and mentioning the
+circumstance to Madame S——, begged of her to tell me whether it was the
+black face of the infant, or my pallid visage, that was the object of
+dislike to this damsel of _golden hue_. A monosyllable conveyed the
+explanation! Madame S——, pointing to the child, whispered “_noire!_” Is
+it possible? I exclaimed. Can it be credible that this creature who is a
+slave herself, and only one remove from the negroes, can have imbibed
+such proud ideas of distinction, as to despise a fellow slave, and
+helpless infant, merely because she differs a single shade from herself,
+in the colour of her skin? “_Il n’y a rien de plus vrai_,” replied
+Madame S——, who further remarked, that this very mulatto was herself a
+most excellent nurse, and peculiarly fond of children; but, to be worthy
+of her attentions, it was indispensable that they should be, at least,
+as fair as herself: her sister’s children, the offspring of a mulatto
+woman and a white man, she would nurse with the utmost sedulity and
+tenderness! On learning this I again went to the mulatto, and
+endeavoured to prevail upon her, to take from me the good-humoured and
+playful little negress. But I found that no persuasions could induce her
+to notice the poor babe, who all the time looked up in her face, and
+solicited her attentions with a smile of heavenly innocence. Her skin
+was black, and it would demean even a slave, but a single degree whiter
+than herself, to treat her as a fellow-being. Such are the distinctions
+of colour! and such, alas! the misfortune, which luxury presumes to
+impose upon a numerous race, for no better reason than that, in His
+infinite wisdom, it has pleased the Common Parent of all, to place upon
+His children of Europe, a paler skin, than has been given to His
+children of Africa.
+
+I have again been with a party across the river, to visit our princely
+neighbour Mr. Blair. It was a birth-day festival, and perhaps a more
+choice and sumptuous repast could not have been found, even in the proud
+cities of Europe. Amidst a crowded variety of covers we had a large
+green turtle, with a great variety of the best European vegetables. The
+fruits were endemic, and such as London with all its riches cannot
+obtain. At no other house in the colony are such entertainments given: a
+circumstance, which, together with the paucity of our ordinary supply,
+and indeed the difficulty of procuring any fresh provisions for our
+table, makes such a gala day quite an object of notice. To you, who have
+daily feasting before you, it can offer nothing remarkable. You will not
+be surprised when I tell you that the generous donor experiences the
+honorable reward of feeling, in his remotest extremities, the pungency
+of his dishes.
+
+The Dutch division of the party returned across the river, at an early
+hour, like orderly citizens. The officers remained all night, but a
+rational sobriety tempered the mirth of the evening. I rose before my
+comrades, in the morning, intending to bathe in the sea; but on going
+upon the fine beach before the house, for that purpose, my face, and
+legs, and hands were so bitten by myriads of sand-flies, as to deter me
+from exposing to them my naked surface.
+
+The weather has been tolerably dry since the commencement of July,
+particularly in the day-time. In the night we have frequent showers of
+rain. The breeze is usually steady, and hitherto we have not found the
+air perceptibly hotter than in the preceding months of May and June. The
+thermometer seldom exceeds 84. Almost every night we have mild and
+beautiful flashes of lightning, following each other in quick succession
+without thunder. Here also the moon appears clad in peculiar brightness.
+A few evenings ago we had an opportunity of seeing a very perfect Iris,
+formed from its light. A pale-looking cloud interposed itself directly
+before the moon, when, as if to show her powers, she calmly separated
+her rays, and arched them on the skies, in all the splendour of a
+beautiful rainbow.
+
+You have already learned, that on leaving Barbadoes we were hurried away
+without our baggage, it being supposed that we should quickly return
+thither, in order to proceed to St. Domingo. We now begin to feel the
+inconvenience of this disjunction, and particularly in the article of
+shoes, which we are obliged to buy from the very wretched stores,
+brought by the Americans. Such execrable specimens I had never seen
+before. A London dust-woman would scarcely pick them up in the street.
+They are commonly mouldy, and of very hard, rough, and coarse leather;
+the colour of which is a rusty brown, with red shining through it; and,
+withal, they are most miserably, and, I may say, painfully made. The
+price of these uneasy coverings for the feet is as high as three
+dollars. If we were in the expectation of remaining upon this station, I
+should beg of you to send me out a package from Rymer: but it is still
+intimated that the branch of the St. Domingo hospital staff, on duty in
+these colonies, may be soon removed; and in this uncertainty the
+continuing to wear rough American shoes, will not be the greatest
+mortification I shall have to support, for it delays the hope of
+speedily hearing from my friends in England. I cannot say—write to me,
+here! yet I know not when I may go hence; and if I should be ordered to
+proceed first to Barbadoes, or Martinique, it may be long before I reach
+Hispaniola. Still, amidst all the uncertainties of my situation, my best
+hope of hearing from you at all, seems to rest on your letters being
+addressed to the Head-quarters of the army of St. Domingo. Continue,
+therefore, to send them thither, and, whenever I may arrive, I shall
+hail the accumulated feast that will await me, as the best reward of the
+long and anxious suspense to which I am doomed.
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER V.
+
+
+                                                   La Bourgade, July 30.
+
+After addressing my last letter to you, I was called from Berbische,
+somewhat suddenly, in consequence of a rapid increase of sickness among
+the troops in the colony of Demarara.
+
+The necessity for my immediate attendance here, leaving me no choice
+with regard to my mode of travelling, I embarked on board the first
+vessel that sailed, and which proved to be nearly allied to the
+memorable Voltigeur. But, although I was very ill accommodated, I was
+not exposed to the multiplied evils of my former voyage; and,
+fortunately, had to support the discomforts only for a single night.
+
+I was put safe on shore the second day, at one of the landing-places at
+Stabroek, which are here called _Sterlings_. They are long wooden
+platforms, which are built on pillars of timber, and extend to a
+considerable distance into the river, forming very convenient stations
+for descending into the boats, and landing from them.
+
+Having mentioned the cause of my return to this colony, you will expect
+that the predictions of the inhabitants of these settlements are about
+to be verified; I may therefore observe to you, that the busy season of
+duty which they led me to anticipate, has stolen upon me, “like a thief
+in the night.” The number of sick, and the malignity of the disease have
+greatly augmented, and it seems probable that very few, if any of the
+troops will escape its attack. From ten to fifteen have been received
+into the hospital, in fever, within the twenty-four hours, for several
+days in succession; and we have remarked that great numbers have been
+seized while employed on duty as sentinels.
+
+I have visited the fort, and examined very minutely into the habits of
+the soldiers, and the general economy of the garrison, in order to
+ascertain whether any cause existed there, to which this rapid increase
+of sickness could be attributed: but I met with nothing that could
+explain it, for although the men have lately received a payment of
+clearance-money, it by no means appears, that spirituous liquors have
+been used to any degree that could excite a suspicion of this being the
+cause of the multiplied sickness which prevails. It is, probably, the
+mere effect of the season, resulting from the greater heat of the days,
+the damp chilliness of the evenings, and the offensive miasmata exhaled
+from half-exposed mud.
+
+The quantity of rain that now falls is not sufficient to cover the
+feculent sediment of the numerous ditches, nor to prevent their
+unwholesome vapours from rising into the atmosphere; and the partial
+showers which occur during the evening and night, by softening the
+half-dried surface, favor the exhalation, while they produce a chilling
+dampness, which perhaps contributes to render the body more than usually
+susceptible of impression.
+
+The evenings are now so much colder, to our feelings, than we found them
+in the preceding months, that we have lately been able to sit with the
+room-door shut, and have even thought that a blanket, during the night,
+might have been supportable. Yet the thermometer indicates no
+considerable diminution of heat in the evening, and but a very slight
+augmentation at noon. Hence it is probable, that the increased
+susceptibility of the system may proceed from some change in the state
+of the body, not exclusively depending upon the mere effect of heat and
+cold. But you will not forgive me if I engage in hypothetical
+disquisitions. I will content myself therefore with having related to
+you the facts, and without offering doubtful inferences, leave you to
+form your own conclusions.
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER VI.
+
+
+                                                Mahaica, August 7, 1796.
+
+Again my residence is changed, and I have to address you from a new
+home. The same unhappy cause which removed me from Berbische to La
+Bourgade, called me thence to an important post, occupied by a strong
+division of our troops at Mahaica. Disease has spread over the whole
+extent of this coast, and threatens every European with an attack.
+
+Unhappily no exemption is granted in favor of the medical attendants,
+and at a period when we are most required to relieve the sickness of
+others, we are most liable to it ourselves. On my arrival at Mahaica, I
+had the misfortune to find the medical assistant, upon this station,
+lying in an advanced stage of yellow fever, rapidly sinking into the
+grave, which has since swallowed his remains. Accounts have also reached
+me of the death of another of our professional comrades, whom I left
+only a few days ago in good health, at the hospital at La Bourgade.
+These are afflicting deductions from our scanty establishment, and they
+are the more painfully felt in consequence of some of the regiments not
+having with them either of their medical officers; which throws the
+whole of the regimental, as well as the hospital duty, upon the few
+gentlemen of the St. Domingo staff, who were detached to these colonies;
+and whose situation, at this critical juncture, is harassing and
+distressful to the highest degree. From the heavy pressure of sickness,
+and the necessarily remote distribution of our very limited division, it
+is only with extreme toil and exertion that we are able to do justice to
+the poor suffering objects who claim our attention: yet, with an
+increasing demand for our services, we have the severe misfortune to see
+our numbers and our means diminish.
+
+My own best efforts shall not be wanting, but I am well aware that there
+are many comforts I could wish for the sick, which, from the
+circumstances of the moment, it will be wholly impossible to procure for
+them. At this post I have the charge of a crowded host of patients, all
+inconveniently placed, and have neither an apothecary, a mate, nor any
+other medical man to assist me: I am exposed therefore to incessant and
+almost insupportable fatigue. My whole day is spent amidst the sick, or
+in procuring for them some accommodation: they occupy all my time and
+all my care.
+
+Unfortunately, too, my quarters are nearly a mile from the hospital, and
+I have that distance to walk four times every day, which, alone, is
+considered by the inhabitants as a degree of labour, sufficient to
+destroy the strongest frame. At six o’clock, I make my morning visit,
+when several hours are fully employed, with my head bent almost to the
+ground, in examining and listening to nearly a hundred patients, all
+lying upon paillasses spread on the floor; and many of them scarcely
+able to hear, or reply to my questions. After this I have to instruct an
+orderly soldier to compound my prescriptions, and to see him administer
+the medicines. Next I have to prescribe the provisions, and the mode of
+preparing them for the convalescents; which is here no less a duty than
+to order medicine for the sick; and further, from having no purveyor, it
+falls to my lot, in some degree, to superintend even the cooking;
+otherwise, as only salt meat is issued, our messes would scarcely be
+made eatable—certainly not palatable, nor fit for the stomachs of men
+only recovering from disease. But from great care and attention, in
+having the meat steeped the over-night, then well scalded, and
+afterwards stewed in fresh water, with rice, yams, sweet potatoes, peas,
+or broken pieces of bread, we form various changes of nutritive, and not
+disagreeable pottage.
+
+Having gone through the whole of these ceremonies, which you will
+believe consume a full proportion of the forenoon, I have to walk back
+to the barracks, and am frequently so exhausted as to be obliged to
+throw myself at full length upon my mattress, and lie for a considerable
+time before I can recover sufficient strength either to bathe my person,
+or take my breakfast.
+
+In the evening I return again to the hospital, and repeat my visit to
+the sick as in the morning. Whenever I can command an interval it is
+employed in writing, for, in addition to my other engagements, I have to
+make out the necessary returns for the commanding officer, and for
+head-quarters, also to keep full and correct statements of all accompts,
+receipts, and hospital disbursements.
+
+Amidst my busy round, I often hear it whispered, that the toil to which
+I am subjected must _soon destroy_ me; and many of the officers and
+planters are kind enough to express friendly apprehensions regarding my
+safety: but, at this hour of need, no personal considerations can induce
+me to relax in my duty. More than my utmost efforts are required to
+procure only scanty comforts for the sick, and, under such
+circumstances, I can neither enjoy rest, nor shun fatigue. Not only an
+imperious sense of duty, but humanity also calls upon me to contribute
+every aid in my power, and I cannot but feel that to limit my exertions,
+or diminish my efforts would be unjust, if not even criminal, towards
+the unfortunate objects of my care. With respect to disease I feel not
+the slightest personal apprehension, and even if I did, I should deem it
+necessary, situated as I now am, to subdue my terrors. A military
+officer does not shrink from a cannon, although he sees it pointed
+towards him! nor ought a medical officer to turn from disease, which it
+is his duty to meet and to combat! I have been always of opinion that
+the physician, who deserts his post, in the hour of sickness, is not
+less a coward than the officer who abandons his garrison at a period of
+danger; or the soldier who turns his back upon an enemy in the field of
+battle: therefore, however anxious the kindness of my friends and
+comrades may render them, concerning my safety, I cannot prevail upon
+myself to lessen my exertions.
+
+From its situation Mahaica might be regarded as one of the most healthy
+posts in Guiana. It is open to the sea, and freely exposed to the cool
+breeze. We have no town, nor village near us. The name is given to a
+certain district about the mouth of (what is here termed a creek, but
+what is in fact) a considerable river, called by the Indians Mahaica.
+The fort, in point of strength, offers nothing formidable, but its site
+is well chosen as a military post, being on the coast between the two
+rivers Demarara and Berbische, about twenty miles from the former, and
+fifty from the latter: and immediately upon the border of the sea,
+commanding the entrance of the river Mahaica, and of a smaller creek
+which opens nearly at the same spot into the ocean. Next to Fort William
+Frederic, and Fort St. Andrew, Mahaica is the most important garrison in
+the two colonies. The barracks at the fort are not large enough to
+contain the whole of the troops now stationed here; the house and other
+buildings, therefore, of a neighbouring estate, called Lancaster, are
+occupied for that purpose. Indeed, to meet the exigencies of the moment,
+we are compelled to appropriate every room at the fort to the use of the
+sick; and all the officers and soldiers, who are well, are removed to
+the plantation Lancaster, which is nearly a mile from the fort, upon the
+same bank of the river, but on the opposite side of the creek.
+
+Lancaster is a large cotton estate belonging to the representatives of a
+Mr. Phillips, who is lately dead. It is now under the direction of a
+manager, subject to the control of an attorney; the former residing on
+the spot, the latter at a plantation in the vicinity.
+
+This estate is traversed in various parts by double rows of trees,
+forming a pleasant shade between them; and, bearing a fruit, resembling,
+in flavour, the Turkey fig, are hence called figtrees. They are rather
+larger than the orange trees, and their foliage is thick and green. The
+fruit is about the size of the coffee berry: it is filled with small
+seeds, and in substance is like the fig.
+
+With respect to provisions, we are less happy than regarding our
+quarters. Salt meat and the vegetables of the country constitute our
+almost unvaried fare. Occasionally we procure a Muscovy duck, a chicken,
+a young kid, or a sucking pig, and then it is high feast. Our standing
+dishes are pease-soup, and salt pork. The plantain also furnishes a
+steady supply. We now eat this with creole appetite, and although we, at
+first, disliked it, we begin to consider it as one of the most pleasant
+and useful articles of food, which the country affords: roasted, it
+serves as bread—boiled, it is used as a table-vegetable—stewed, or
+fried, it is eaten as fruit—and pounded in a mortar, it makes excellent
+pudding. The yam is also a substantial friend to us; as are likewise the
+eddoes and cassada. The potatoes of the country are sweet and satiating,
+and not much esteemed. We occasionally obtain a few which have been
+brought from Europe in the trading ships: and these we enjoy as a great
+treat. The officers of the 99th regiment, now on duty here, have kindly
+received me into the regimental mess, which, by offering me the common
+supply of their table, happily relieves me from all the trouble and
+concern of seeking provisions; and is at this moment of hurry and
+fatigue, an important accommodation.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER VII.
+
+
+                                                        Mahaica, August.
+
+If I were to proceed only upon the knowledge I have of your feelings, I
+should avoid laying before you a history, which is more direful and
+afflicting than any arising from the ravages of the much-dreaded fever
+of this climate; but, when I recollect that it was emphatically your
+request that I would relate every fact which should present itself to my
+observation, respecting the slaves, I cannot refrain from telling you,
+that since my arrival at Mahaica, one of the most shocking instances of
+barbarity has occurred, which was ever perpetrated, even in a land of
+slavery.
+
+Two unhappy negroes, a man and a woman, having been driven by cruel
+treatment to abscond from the plantation Lancaster, were taken a few
+days since, and brought back to the estate, when the manager, whose
+inhuman severity had caused them to fly from his government, dealt out
+to them his avenging despotism with more than savage brutality. Taking
+with him two of his strongest drivers, armed with heavy whips, he led
+out these trembling and wretched Africans, early in the morning, to a
+remote part of the estate, too distant for the officers to hear their
+cries; and, there, tying down first the man, he stood by, and made the
+drivers flog him with many hundred lashes, until, on releasing him from
+the ground, it was discovered that he was nearly exhausted: in this
+state the monster struck-him on the head, with the but end of a large
+whip, and felled him again to the earth; when the poor negro, escaping
+at once from his slavery and his sufferings, expired at the murderer’s
+feet. But not satiated with blood, this savage tyrant next tied down the
+naked woman, on the spot, by the dead body of her husband, and with the
+whips, already purple with gore, compelled the drivers to inflict a
+punishment of several hundred lashes, which had nearly released her also
+from a life of toil and torture.
+
+Hearing of these acts of cruelty, on my return from the hospital, and
+scarcely believing it possible that they could have been committed, I
+went immediately to the sick-house to satisfy myself by ocular
+testimony: when, alas! I discovered that all I had heard was too fatally
+true; for, shocking to relate, I found the almost murdered woman lying
+stark-naked on her belly, upon the dirty boards, without any covering to
+the horrid wounds which had been cut by the whips, and with the still
+warm and bloody corpse of the man extended at her side, upon the neck of
+which was an iron collar, and a long heavy chain, which the now murdered
+negro had been made to wear from the time of his return to the estate.
+The flesh of the woman was so torn, as to exhibit one extensive sore,
+from the loins almost down to her hams; nor had humanity administered
+even a drop of oil to soften her wounds: the only relief she knew, was
+that of extending her feeble arm in order to beat off the tormenting
+flies, with a small green bough, which had been put into her hand for
+that purpose by the sympathizing kindness of a fellow slave. A more
+horrid and distressful spectacle can scarcely be conceived. The dead
+man, and the almost expiring woman had been brought home, from the place
+of punishment, and thrown into the negro hospital, amidst the crowd of
+sick, with cruel unconcern. Lying on the opposite side of the corpse was
+a fellow-sufferer, in a similar condition to the poor woman. His
+buttocks, thighs, and part of his back, had been flogged into one large
+sore, which was still raw, although he had been punished a fortnight
+before.
+
+The following day we witnessed the preparations for the funeral of their
+murdered brother, by his fellow slaves. It was conducted in their usual
+manner, not with the afflicting solemnity of the Christian rites, but
+with all the mirthful ceremonies of African burial, forming a scene of
+gaiety, which consisted of music, dancing, singing, and loud noise. They
+all seemed to rejoice more in his escape from pain and misery, than to
+sorrow for his loss.
+
+The body being put into the coffin, and every thing made ready for
+proceeding to the grave, the corpse was taken out of the sick-house into
+the yard, and placed very carefully upon the heads of two robust
+negroes, who carried it as far as the house, and then, halting under the
+window of the manager’s room, they set the coffin upon the ground, and
+the whole gang of slaves danced and sang, and played their music around
+it, in loud gambols, for nearly two hours; beating at intervals, with
+great violence, against the door and window-shutters, and threatening
+vengeance upon the murderer of their companion. The manager expecting
+that they would break into the house to massacre him, and feeling that
+he merited death from their hands, was seized with sad alarm; and,
+bursting from his hiding-place, he ran abruptly to the mess-room, to
+implore the protection of the officers, looking a ghastly figure of
+terror. I could not but remark the effect of his sudden appearance among
+us. Not one officer opened his lips in reply to him. The general feeling
+seemed to say—“a wretch so cruel can deserve no compassion.” After a
+short suspense, the silence, which must have been more severe than the
+bitterest words, was broken, by one of the gentlemen referring him to
+his feelings, and demanding whether he conceived himself to merit either
+pity or protection. His fears had magnified the danger; for although the
+slaves were clamorous, we did not notice among them any symptoms which
+evinced a disposition forcibly to break into the house. They at length
+concluded their dance, then replacing the coffin upon the heads of the
+two negroes, and observing much ceremony as to the position of the
+corpse, they proceeded towards the place of interment. On leaving the
+courtyard, they used the precaution of going round the house, in order
+to avoid carrying the body across the manager’s window, not, as you will
+suppose, from any sense of delicacy towards him, but from some
+superstition regarding the spirit of the dead slave. As they moved on,
+two women tapped gently at the sides of the coffin, as if to appease the
+corpse, or soften its wrath while passing the murderer’s abode. The
+manager felt highly relieved by their departure; but they had not gone
+far before the whole party suddenly faced about, and came running back
+to the house, the two negroes who were bearing the corpse turning round
+and round, with it upon their heads, a number of times in the yard,
+while many of the gang beat and kicked against the door, and the
+window-shutters of the manager’s room, shouting and crying aloud for
+vengeance: upon which one of the book-keepers, an old man who had been
+long upon the estate, went out to join in the crowd; and exerting his
+influence to appease them, led them away, when they proceeded, dancing,
+singing, and beating their music, to the place of burial. After a short
+time the gang returned again into the courtyard, having left the remains
+of their companion in the peaceful grave. The busy dance was now
+resumed, and they hooted and hissed at the manager, and beat loudly at
+his door and window, continuing their shoutings and clamour until dark,
+when they all retired quietly to their huts.
+
+A few days after the funeral, the attorney of the estate happened to
+call at Lancaster to visit the officers, and the conversation naturally
+turning upon the late cruelty of the manager, and the consequent injury
+derived to the proprietor, we asked him what punishment the laws of the
+colony had provided for such horrid and barbarous crimes; expressing our
+hope that the manager would suffer the disgrace he so justly merited;
+when, to our great surprise, the attorney smiled and treated our remarks
+only as the dreams of men unpractised in the ways of slavery. He spake
+of the murder with as little feeling as the manager had perpetrated it,
+and seemed to be amused at our visionary ideas, of _punishing a white
+man_ for his conduct towards slaves! To the question whether the manager
+would not be dismissed from the estate, he replied, “_Certainly not_,”
+adding that “_if the negro had been treated as he deserved he would have
+been flogged to death long before_.” Such was the amount of his sympathy
+and concern! The laws of the colony, he said, were intended to prevent
+any person from chastising a slave with more than thirty-nine lashes,
+for the same offence; but by incurring only a small fine, he could, at
+any time, punish a negro with as many hundred lashes as he might wish,
+“although the governor and the fiscal” were standing at his elbow.
+
+I was careful to observe the progress of the hideous wounds inflicted
+upon the poor woman, and to watch her recovery; and you will be shocked
+to know that her sufferings were severely increased, by the inhuman
+neglect which succeeded to her punishment. One morning, upon hearing the
+loud cries of a female, I was led to look out at my window, when I saw
+some negroes carrying this unfortunate woman from the sick-house into
+the yard, where they laid her down in the dirt, upon the bare ground,
+amidst a heavy shower of rain, then, kneeling at her sides, they
+proceeded to examine minutely into her wounds; and you will scarcely
+hold it credible, when I tell you that they were employed a full
+half-hour _picking maggots out of her sores_!!! The ulcerations had
+penetrated to a great depth, particularly with-inside the thighs, where
+the lashes of the whips had cut round, and torn the flesh in a frightful
+manner. The ulcers were very raw and considerably enlarged, by the
+gnawing of the maggots which had been bred within them. I cannot
+describe to you the horror I felt at this deplorable sight. I had often
+heard of _maggoting_ sheep, but this was the first instance I had met
+with of maggoting a human being, and I felt additional distress in
+finding the subject of it an unhappy female, whose punishment had been
+already severe, and in whom the occasion for such a beastly process
+might and ought to have been prevented, if the common dictates of
+humanity had been observed. The poor afflicted wretch groaned heavily
+under her sufferings, and the operation, which in itself was severely
+painful, was rendered so in a still greater degree by the roughness of
+her untutored surgeons. During the whole of the time, she was exposed
+naked to the rain; also to the eyes of slaves, officers, soldiers, and
+all who chanced to pass that way. It was a spectacle, equally offensive
+to humanity, and to delicacy!
+
+On representing the diabolical cruelty of this case to the surgeon, he
+remarked to us, that the sores, from punishments, did not usually fall
+under his inspection, but were left to the care of the _negro doctor_
+who had the charge of the sick-house; and that nothing was more common
+than to see the wounds filled with maggots. “Indeed,” said he, “it is
+often our greatest difficulty, in the practice of surgery in these
+climates, to prevent the breeding of insects in the sores.”
+
+I am sorry to remark that the Lancaster plantation has been
+distinguished for some time past, on account of the inhuman treatment of
+the slaves; in fact, it seemed as if cruelty had become contagious upon
+this estate, for we learn, from the most respectable authority, that a
+former proprietor was so hardened in his savage conduct that,
+frequently, when an unfortunate negro was bound down to the earth, and
+groaning under the severe pain of two heavy lashes, he would strike him
+a blow upon the head with the butt end of his whip, between each of the
+strokes given by the drivers; and that, carrying his barbarity still
+further, he would sometimes order the teeth of the slave to be torn out
+with a pair of iron pincers, and would himself stand by to see the
+torture inflicted.
+
+I can anticipate your sentiments upon reading the history of these
+shocking punishments, for they afford lamentable examples of the horrors
+and injustice of slavery; and you cannot but think, with me, that the
+system which gives to an individual the power of lording his worst
+passions, over a fellow-being, uncontrolled, admits of no defence. It is
+a violation of nature, in which humanity is outraged, and our species
+degraded!
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER VIII.
+
+
+                                                     Mahaica, August 22.
+
+I am exceedingly sorry not to be able to give you improved tidings
+concerning the health of the troops upon this station. They are still
+very sickly, and it is distressing to know that the number of patients
+increases more rapidly than our means of accommodation. I remain quite
+well, amidst the general sickness which surrounds me; indeed, I am now
+the only medical officer of this expedition who has not experienced an
+attack of fever, but it would be too much to expect that I shall wholly
+escape its visitation. My best hope is, that I may not be seized, while
+my services are so essential to the relief of others.
+
+In addition to the many duties which press upon me, I have now to
+perform the melancholy office of priest. From having no clergyman at
+Mahaica it falls to my lot to go through the afflicting ceremony of
+reading the funeral service over my lost comrades. This is a severe task
+to me, and I am sometimes fearful lest my spirits should become too much
+depressed to support me through the various claims of my present
+calling; but I am well aware, that if I were to yield to the distressful
+apprehensions which I see exhibited by those around me, who are not
+medical men, the situation of the sick must be more dreadful even than
+it is, at present; I am therefore resolved, if my strength continue, to
+meet with firmness all the necessities of this urgent period.
+
+We have recently lost a pleasant and amiable companion in the decease of
+Captain Heritage. He suffered serious alarm on account of the death of
+the acting surgeon, and we found it impossible to rouse him from the
+desponding impression. On the 6th instant, he followed poor Ramsden to
+the grave, and from terror fancied that he perceived a “smell of the
+disease;” but I remarked, while I was reading the service over the body,
+that he had placed himself at a considerable distance to windward,
+holding a handkerchief, the whole of the time, to his mouth and nose.
+During the two following days he went about, as usual, among his
+comrades, without complaining of being ill, but still expressing his
+fears, and occasionally speaking of slight head-ach. On the morning of
+the 9th I was called to visit him as a patient, when I found him in bed.
+On the evening of the 10th he died. He had no strongly marked symptom of
+disease, nor any sign of great pain or suffering; but an experienced eye
+might discover from his general appearance, at the first moment of my
+being called to him, that there was no hope of his recovery. Extreme
+languor, with a peculiar change of feature, not to be described by
+words, might be said to constitute the disease, while they were correct
+indications of its dangerous nature. Soon, every thing he swallowed was
+thrown from the stomach without effort—the prostration of strength
+became excessive—he grew helpless—sunk into a state of listlessness—made
+no complaint:—low delirium supervened—he turned yellow, and ... fell to
+the earth like an autumnal leaf.
+
+You will not be surprised to know that rumour has been busy on the
+subject of the prevailing sickness, and its fatal tendency: or that the
+prejudices of the inhabitants have led them to imagine that if it were
+treated by “_the colonial doctors_” the disease might be easily subdued.
+In consequence of such remarks, and in order to satisfy my own feelings,
+by trying every means which it was in my power to obtain, for the relief
+of the sick, I have solicited the aid of the medical men of the country,
+both English and Dutch, and asked them to oblige me by attending
+frequently at the hospital, that I might avail myself of their talents
+and experience to the improvement of my own practice, and the consequent
+benefit of the afflicted: several of the gentlemen have, accordingly,
+been good enough to favor us with occasional attendance; but I find that
+here, as at Berbische, the disorder is treated in the same manner as the
+common remittent fever of the country, and nearly the whole reliance
+confided to the bark—that great sheet-anchor of West India practice.
+This was prescribed in ample quantity, and in various forms, but it
+entirely failed of success.
+
+At the time of poor Captain Heritage’s attack I particularly requested
+the assistance of one of my colonial brethren; and perceiving that it
+was beyond my own power to relieve him, I begged of Dr. —— to use his
+utmost endeavours to save him, when, without appearing to entertain the
+same apprehensions of his danger as myself, he advised a copious use of
+the bark. After visiting Captain H. this gentleman went with me into the
+hospital, where I selected four other recent cases, which seemed likely
+to terminate fatally, and intreated the doctor to take these likewise
+under his care; to command the resources of the hospital department; and
+to exert his best means of restoring: them: but he declined the charge
+of attending them, as his patients, although he consented to accompany
+me in my visits, and to consult with me regarding them; which afforded
+me infinite satisfaction, as I earnestly hoped to profit by his practice
+for the benefit of others. The bark was prescribed for them all, and
+most liberally administered, but in vain; for not one of them recovered!
+The doctor was greatly disappointed at the unhappy result of these
+cases, and, declaring that there was “_something different_” in the
+fever which prevailed among the troops, from that which usually attacked
+the colonists, he wished me better success, and withdrew his attendance.
+
+It is scarcely requisite to mention that the trade-wind is lighter and
+less steady, during the decline of the wet season, than it becomes in
+the time of the dry season: so necessary, and salutiferous is it
+esteemed at all times, and particularly at the present period, that, on
+the breeze setting in, it is common for the people of the country to
+exclaim, “Here comes the doctor,” hailing it as the best medical friend
+of the colony. If it be not so powerful now as it is in the dry season,
+still it may be said to be always free at Mahaica, although it does not
+prove successful in preventing the wide ravages of disease.
+
+Frequently I have long conversations with “_Doctor Bob_,” the resident
+black _physician_ at the negro hospital, and sub-medical attendant of
+his brother slaves, who is very communicative, and furnishes me with
+many facts and remarks; and notwithstanding they are not always of
+sterling value, they are occasionally interesting and important. A few
+days since, on finding that his sick list had increased in almost as
+great a degree as my own, I asked Dr. Bob how this happened, when he
+replied, “_It always so, Massa, at this time o’ year, because him
+weather change from wet to dry._” Seeing a negro boy, at the same
+moment, in a high paroxysm of fever, his case became the subject of our
+conversation, in the course of which this sable _doctor_ made the
+following remark: “_Him fever shall go, when him water come low;—him
+always come hot, when him tide high_:” a fact which we very frequently
+observe at the hospital, although not so generally as to authorize an
+unqualified opinion, that the febrile accessions strictly connect with
+lunar influence.
+
+The present moment may be said to be the high season of yellow fever. It
+now rages in its utmost violence, and with sorrow I remark, that great
+numbers perish from its malignity. Until the partial rains of the
+present period shall have ceased, and the dry season be well set in, it
+is said that we have to expect a continuance of sickness: nor does it
+appear to be within the power of man to prevent it. Of the cure, perhaps
+in many cases, I might speak in similar terms, for although we can
+frequently remove the disease, interrupt its course, or lessen its
+violence by combating it in an _early stage_; still, when the more
+malignant symptoms have appeared, it seldom happens that any medicine
+can arrest their progress. Bark, mercury, bleeding, bathing, and a
+variety of other remedies have been amply tried: but in vain, for all
+have proved equally ineffectual.
+
+A painful alarm obtains among the troops; the medical officers are
+falling victims to their fatigue; and many circumstances combine to
+augment the melancholy gloom of this distressing period. At Mahaica the
+numbers admitted into the hospital form a very large proportion of the
+garrison; the same is the case at Stabrock. At Maiconuy and Awbarry, two
+smaller posts between Mahaica and Berbische, although much of sickness
+prevails, the disease assumes an intermittent or remittent form, and is
+less fatal: while here, and at Fort William Frederic, it attacks with
+all the destructive violence of a continued fever.
+
+In my walks to and from the hospital, I sometimes fix myself at the side
+of the sea, or on the border of the river, and contemplate, in solitude,
+the awful, and peculiarly critical situation in which I am placed! I
+behold the responsibility of an important department pressing upon
+me—crowds of sick lifting up their dying eyes to me for relief—officers
+watching, in earnest solicitude, my slightest complainings—soldiers
+looking towards me with anxiety for my safety, and all who are near me
+regarding me with the most lively concern—each seeming to express
+himself sensible how much his health, and even his life, may soon depend
+upon the care and exertions of an individual!
+
+Anxious to lessen the evils of this afflicting season, I lately obtained
+the consent of the commanding officer, and prevailed upon a party of
+soldiers to place themselves under my direction, in order to try what
+might be the effect of some prophylactic means, either in keeping off
+the attack of the disease, or in rendering its symptoms milder; but,
+after only a few days observance of the plan I advised, some of the men
+happening to feel a little uneasy from the medicine, they all swore they
+would not be _killed, while they were well_, to oblige either the
+captain or the doctor, and, refusing to persevere, completely frustrated
+my endeavours, and prevented me from ascertaining what might have been
+the fair result of the trial.
+
+Our diet-table at the hospital is of late very much improved, in
+consequence of the planters, of the neighbouring estates, having agreed
+to supply us, each in his turn, with fresh provisions for two days in
+the week. It is not usual for Englishmen to esteem plain beef or mutton
+a luxury; but such we really find it here, and, when we obtain it, we
+feast upon it with high and particular enjoyment.
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER IX.
+
+
+                                                    Mahaica, Sept. 1796.
+
+A considerable proportion of the officers’ mess, from the Lancaster
+barracks, have lately been to dine with Major Prauél, a pleasant
+inhabitant of this coast, whose plantation is only a short distance from
+the fort. The dinner was plentiful, and handsomely served in a large
+cotton logis, which had been prepared for the purpose, and, being
+spacious and cool, was far preferable to the house. As we returned in
+the evening, we witnessed a very grand and brilliant scene from the
+burning of a part of the forest, in order to clear an estate for
+cultivation. The trees were consuming with great rapidity, and from the
+fire increasing in brightness as the evening closed, it formed a most
+splendid and imposing spectacle. The major observed to us that this
+improvement of the picture was not the mere effect of viewing it through
+the surrounding darkness, it being a fact very generally known in this
+country that when any part of the wood is set on fire, it burns with
+more rapidity during the night than in the day-time. From the greater
+strength of the breeze between the early hours of the morning and
+evening, this might seem improbable: but your chemical reading will
+furnish you with an explanation of the fact, from the known tendency of
+light to preserve oxygen in its gaseous state, and to prevent the
+decomposition of the atmospheric air, which is so essential to
+combustion. The fire appeared very beautiful, and might be seen to the
+distance of many miles. It arrested our attention for a considerable
+time, and we contemplated it as an object of grandeur and novelty.
+
+The officers kindly wishing to divert me, in some degree, from the
+severe fatigue and anxiety which I have lately undergone, and which,
+they insist, will destroy me, have prevailed upon me to accompany a
+party of them on a visit to Mynheer Bercheych, one of the most eccentric
+and remarkable characters residing upon this coast—an old gentleman, who
+by uncommon industry has formed a cotton plantation at the most remote
+point of the colony, where he lives, amidst negroes and wild Indians,
+almost secluded from the world.
+
+We first rode the distance of some miles, across rich plains of cotton,
+to the house of Mr. Graham, situated immediately upon the bank of the
+river, about midway between the fort and M. Bercheych’s. Here we found a
+party of slaves in waiting, with a large handsome canoe, sent by M.
+Bercheych, for the purpose of conveying us the remainder of the journey.
+The tide serving, we made no delay, but taking Mr. Graham into the canoe
+with us, proceeded forthwith on our route. After an hour and quarter of
+hard paddling up the river, we turned into a narrow canal, and were
+pulled a considerable distance further, by the slaves, running upon the
+bank with a rope fastened to the canoe. This canal leads to the house,
+and serves as the boundary of M. Bercheych’s property. It is continued
+from a deep savanna at the back of the dwelling, and goes along the
+border of the plantation to the river, into which it conveys its waters,
+and prevents the inundation of the estate. At one spot we were obliged
+to quit the canoe, whilst the slaves dragged it over land, in order to
+pass a bridge and a sluice which interrupted our passage. On the other
+side of these we resumed our seats, and proceeded towards the house,
+which is at the further part of the estate. On seeing us approach, M.
+Bercheych walked out to meet us; and, on coming near, he hailed us with
+a most reverential salutation. We immediately left the canoe, and walked
+with him upon the bank of the canal to the house.
+
+His person and address were strongly impressive, being at once graceful
+and dignified, although such as to convey an idea of the rigid precision
+of a formal old ’squire. Much had been reported to us of the situation
+also of the man, whose eccentricity is become proverbial in the colony.
+Our visit, therefore, was one of high curiosity, and we did not return
+without experiencing very ample gratification.
+
+M. Bercheych is a remarkably fine man. He is robust and well-built, of
+hale countenance and sturdy form, very erect in his carriage, and
+possessing uncommon activity, together with great bodily strength, and
+vast energy of mind. From his figure and the formality of his address,
+he appears to be stern and unbending, but in reality he is affable,
+jocose, and communicative, and has nothing of the cold reserve of his
+country about him. He met us dressed in coat, waistcoat, and breeches of
+nankeen, all cut in the true antique; a very large and almost cardinal
+hat, of white beaver; shoes well squared at the extremities, and
+fastened with a pair of plain small buckles; a long staff in his hand,
+and his knuckles ornamented with deep ruffles. As he walked, his staff
+and right hand ruffle made an extensive sweep, describing a wide circle;
+his step was firm and decisive, the tail of his coat moved with an
+important swing from side to side, in unison with the majestic sway of
+his body—his general air was commanding and dignified. On arriving at
+the house, he welcomed all the party individually, going through the
+ceremony of deliberately taking each by the hand, and bowing to him with
+the profoundest politeness: showing at the same time, every mark of
+respect and hospitality to the whole body. Wine was immediately set
+before us, for our refreshment after the journey, and we took our seats
+in a cool romantic little cottage, which, in appearance, and in the
+simplicity of its structure, might have vied with the dwelling of a
+hermit. Its walls were built with the caudices of the leaves of a fine
+species of palm, called Eta, which in substance are lighter than cane.
+These were placed together perpendicularly, and resembled a number of
+well-arranged columns or small pillars, which were divided and
+supported, at intervals, by others of the bamboo, somewhat larger; nor
+were any of them concealed or defaced with paint, paper, or stucco, but
+all were exposed in the naked simplicity of their original form. The
+partitions dividing the rooms were of similar structure; the floors were
+of brick; the windows, simple openings in the walls; and the furniture,
+of plain wood, unadorned. In point of situation too, this native little
+cottage might have been a hermit’s fit abode; for it is placed at the
+border of a wild savanna, overhung with heavy and impenetrable forests,
+and far removed from the busy tumult of the world.
+
+The estate is at the greatest depth from the sea, being the most distant
+that has yet been cultivated upon the Mahaica creek, consequently it is
+nearest to the forest, and its naked inhabitants. Deep and unexplored
+woods approach almost to the door; before the windows grow cotton bushes
+and bananas: a small canal passes by the side of the cottage: and the
+only extensive view is over a large savanna, carrying the eye to its
+utmost reach, in unbroken range between the rude forests.
+
+Here dwells a man of refined manners, and a most active mind, cultivated
+by education, and improved by having lived in polished society. M.
+Bercheych is one of the oldest inhabitants of the colony of Demarara,
+having resided in this settlement when it consisted of only two
+plantations; but since that period he has passed fifteen years in
+Holland, where he lived in considerable splendour, spent his time amidst
+the best society, and entered into all the gaiety and dissipation of the
+Hague. After his return to this coast, he occupied himself in
+cultivating a large estate called Gorcum, and, personally, engaged in
+all the toil and fatigue of a planter. At that time his great amusement,
+and the chief relaxation from his labours consisted in domesticating
+fishes, and the wild birds of the forest, in which he succeeded to the
+astonishment of all who visited his abode.
+
+By whistling when he fed them, he trained the fishes not barely to rise
+to the surface of the water at his call, but even to leap from the pond,
+and eat out of his hand: and from taking the eggs of the birds and
+breeding up their young, or taking the young, and breeding them in the
+house, then suffering them to hop out and in at pleasure, and to fly to
+the woods as soon as they were able, he taught them to return freely for
+food; in which visits they were sometimes accompanied by others, who
+came to partake of their fare; and thus by constant feeding and
+attention, he, at length, brought many of them to be so tame that they
+would fly in at the window of his room, and sit upon pegs, fixed up for
+the purpose, to warble a song: or, at his time of dinner, they would
+come in, and perch upon his head or his shoulder to participate in his
+meal.
+
+You will grieve to hear that after he had built the house, cultivated
+the fields, and ornamented the garden—after he had trained the fishes
+into acquaintances, and taught the birds to be his companions—in short,
+after he had adorned this delightful residence, and fashioned it to his
+taste, he was compelled, by hard necessity, to dispose of the
+heart-loved abode which his hands had formed, in order to defray the
+incumbrances its improvements had created.
+
+Being deprived of his favorite Gorcum, his active mind, ever fertile in
+resources, sought new employment in the cultivation of the rude spot
+which forms his present home, and which is now so improved as to yield a
+large produce in cotton. Until very recently he lived at a different
+part of the estate, where he had erected a house, and near to it formed
+a garden which yielded a plentiful supply of choice fruits and
+vegetables; but from the plantation becoming extensive, he finds it
+expedient to establish his residence at a more central part of it: he
+has therefore built this romantic cottage, to serve as a temporary home,
+from whence he may conveniently superintend the erection of a more
+spacious, and more permanent abode, at a spot already marked out for
+that purpose.
+
+Of his mode of living the shortness of our visit allowed us but little
+opportunity to judge. If not sumptuous, it was at least liberal, for his
+garden and estate afford a very ample store of plain and wholesome
+provisions. His flocks and herds were numerous, and his plantation
+exhibited a more abundant stock of cows, sheep, and poultry, than was
+common at other estates. For dinner he gave us both mutton and beef,
+each very excellent of its kind. The dessert consisted of eggs and some
+uncommonly fine figs. Madeira wine was our drink. This and water form
+the whole list of liqueurs at the home of the hospitable Bercheych.
+Neither rum, brandy, Hollands, nor any other kind of spirit does he ever
+use: beer is not seen at his table: punch he never drinks, and he
+remarked that he had, therefore, no occasion for sugar, which is
+accordingly unknown in his family as an article of consumption. Not
+being in the habit of using any, he does not buy it, nor is a grain of
+it to be found in his house. But what will be deemed still more strange,
+is that, although a Dutchman, he never smokes; nor has under his roof
+either pipes or tobacco.
+
+We were served only by females of colour, of whom M. Bercheych has the
+finest assemblage I have yet seen. We learned that it was one of the
+peculiarities of our host not to suffer a male to inhabit his house. His
+attendants are all of the feminine gender, and, from their hands, both
+himself and his guests receive the offerings of his bounty. His habits
+are social: but men are only admitted as visitors. In other respects
+also he differs from those lonely beings to whom, from its retirement
+and simplicity, his neat little cell might have belonged. He is not a
+solitary recluse, nor does he deny himself the enjoyments of life. For
+the beau sexe he has strong attachments, and he does not hold it needful
+to forego his gratifications. His cottage is a rich seraglio—himself the
+sultan. A more choice collection of half-naked belles it were difficult
+to meet with. They consist of Indians, negroes, mulattoes, and a finely
+formed race between the inhabitants of the woods and the blacks. One of
+the mulattoes, from her dress and ornaments, appeared to be the reigning
+sultana of the day. The number of females about the cottage was sixteen
+or seventeen, all well selected, and the most beautiful of their race.
+Six or seven of them are of an age to acknowledge the kind smiles of
+their lord; the others are advancing towards womanhood, in succession,
+so that each in her turn will probably become the favorite slave of
+their majestic seignor. A Turkish sultan, gleaning from his best
+dominions, might not boast of more inviting forms, or of more obedient
+and devoted slaves than these of the stately Bercheych; who has all the
+advantage of seeing the virgins of his harem grow up under his own eye,
+knowing them to be his sole and absolute property—not merely the slaves
+of his passions, but also of his caprice and his fortune.
+
+Among the female property of M. Bercheych we saw an uncommonly handsome
+family of negroes, consisting of three generations, very strongly
+resembling each other in feature, from the grand-daughter of three years
+old, to the grandmother upwards of sixty. They were all well formed, and
+in face very unlike the common race of negroes, having neither the thick
+lip, the large mouth, nor the wide flat nose. Their lineaments were
+regular, their noses prominent, and slightly aquiline, and their teeth
+and eyes peculiarly fine. The old woman was strong and healthy, of
+active upright figure, and without any marks of advanced age. The
+daughter was the cottage-cook, a tall clean-looking woman about thirty
+years old, whose countenance and person were strikingly handsome. Four
+of the grand-daughters were present—all pretty, and the very images of
+the mother and grandmother: the eldest was about sixteen years of age,
+and both in face and form by far the loveliest nymph we had seen of her
+colour—so beautiful indeed as to dispute the palm of the seraglio. No
+doubt the good old grandmother will have early occasion to witness the
+further diffusion of her semblance in the fourth generation. The whole
+family were peculiarly neat in their persons, and highly respectful in
+their behaviour towards others. Although slaves, they were as
+respectable, and observed as much of propriety and decorum in their
+conduct, as the best regulated domestics of Europe: they did honor to
+the excellent regulations and discipline of their owner.
+
+The old gentleman is strict and imperative towards his slaves, but his
+government is so tempered with kindness and humanity, that he is obeyed
+more from esteem, than from fear or compulsion. In the observances of
+politeness Mynheer Bercheych descends to the correctest minutiæ. From
+his appearance, his manners, address, and stately carriage, he might
+pass for an old English baron. The formal system of bowing, he supports
+with the tenacity of a Dutchman. Not a true-born son of all-bowing
+hat-lifting Leyden, could be more precisely polite. He requires and
+returns a ceremonious salutation every time that he is met by any of his
+slaves; not one of whom dares to go by him without being uncovered. A
+negro belonging to another planter attempted to pass him, without
+offering the necessary salute; he immediately gave him a stripe with his
+cane, observing that if he did not know good manners he must be taught;
+then turning to us, he said, “Gentlemen, if the lowest slave bow to me,
+I take off my own hat in return, because I would not suffer a negro to
+show more of politeness and good manners than myself; but if he walk by
+me without proper observance, I always deem it right to instruct him
+that respect is due to the whites.”
+
+The afternoon glided away very pleasantly, the conversation being
+enlivened by the sprightliness and vivacity of our host, who entertained
+us with a fund of anecdote regarding a variety of subjects, such as the
+negroes and Indians—his own situation and pursuits—his talents in
+shooting, as well with the common arrow, and the poisoned arrow, as with
+the gun and the pistol—his industry in cultivating new land—his
+perseverance in domesticating birds and fishes—the treatment of his
+slaves—his conduct respecting his son, and many other topics. We found
+him a well-bred intelligent man, and were pleased to remark, that
+although he lives in a manner secluded from the world, amidst wild men
+and slaves, and uncultured beings of various crosses and complexions,
+giving loose to his favorite passion, and indulging his appetites in all
+their native freedom, he still preserves the dignity of a gentleman, and
+displays all the superiority of a well-educated and enlightened mind.
+From his manners, and his years, he is highly respectable, as also from
+his talents, and unwearied industry. The first impression, arising from
+his figure and address, is that of a stern justice of the peace, or a
+rigid country esquire of the old English school: but the reserve of his
+exterior is soon removed by the ease and affability of his conversation.
+He is particularly well versed in the history and policy of these
+settlements, and we derived much instruction and amusement from his
+remarks. Indeed we found him altogether so interesting as to wish the
+hours we spent in his society could have been lengthened into days, and
+were grieved when the moment arrived for taking our departure.
+
+Nothing could exceed the neatness of arrangement which displayed itself
+about his little cottage home. Plainness and simplicity prevailed
+throughout, but a palace could not be cleaner, nor maintained in greater
+order. A small dairy, of exquisite contrivance, was most delicately
+fitted up, and appeared delightfully fresh and cool; a little
+poultry-yard, enclosed with a fancy paling, was a perfect model of
+taste; and every thing around exhibited some mark of excellence—some
+testimony of having been improved by the ingenious hand of its
+industrious and eccentric owner.
+
+Surrounding the cottage is cut a deep wet fosse, which forms a
+protecting barrier, and prevents any person from approaching his
+residence, except by passing over a narrow plank placed across the
+ditch, directly in front of the dwelling; and so extremely rigid is he
+in his exclusion of male-beings, that not even a negro is allowed to
+cross this plank without expressly obtaining his leave. In the plan of
+the new house which he intends to erect, is an encircling ditch or moat
+of fourteen or sixteen feet wide, which he expects will be a complete
+defence to his retired seraglio.
+
+From living so much among the Indians M. Bercheych is well acquainted
+with their manners and customs, and feels himself quite at home amidst
+them. He amused us by shooting with the bow and arrow, and we were
+surprised to observe with what accuracy he was able to hit his mark. He
+very kindly presented me with some specimens in natural history; also
+some of the simple productions of Indian manufacture, and very
+obligingly offered to procure me a model of their dwellings, made by the
+Bucks.
+
+Delighted with the cottage, and still more interested with the man, we
+let the evening close in upon our reluctant departure, and had to avail
+ourselves of the moon, as a guide in our return down the river. We
+walked some distance at the side of the canal before we came to the
+canoe; and were accompanied to the place of embarkation by M. Bercheych,
+followed by two of his fine cottage nymphs, who were directed to attend
+with some wine-glasses and two bottles of Madeira. One of these was to
+be emptied to the success of the new home, on reaching the place, where
+it was to be erected: the other was to supply the parting glass on our
+stepping into the canoe. These ceremonies were accordingly observed in
+due form, and after seeing us safely seated and afloat, the friendly
+Bercheych bade us cordially good night, earnestly intreating us soon to
+repeat our visit. He then bowed to us as profoundly as on our arrival,
+and placing himself between his two tender supporters, trod back his
+path in sultanic step, to his sequestered retreat.
+
+The tide being again in our favor, the slaves paddled us with great
+speed down the river as far as Mr. Graham’s; where, quitting the canoe,
+the major and myself took our chaise, and the other gentlemen their
+horses, and we finished this delightful day by a pleasant moonlight ride
+across the cotton fields to our quarters.
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER X.
+
+
+                                                       Mahaica, Sept. 4.
+
+An opportunity now offers of addressing you by a conveyance which holds
+out every probability of my letter reaching you in safety. The 93d and
+99th regiments being draughted into the 39th, the officers are about to
+return to England, and I commit my letter to the care of one of these
+gentlemen, who will be good enough to see it delivered. I wish I could
+propose any means equally secure of my receiving tidings from you! But I
+am sorry to observe, that all our uncertainties continue. We are still
+in the same state of suspense; placed between the two staffs of the
+Charibbee islands and of St. Domingo, as if belonging to neither:
+expecting daily to be ordered to Hispaniola, yet without any intimation
+when we are to be relieved. Under these circumstances, I can only say as
+before, continue to address to me at the head-quarters of the St.
+Domingo army: I may then have the hope of meeting some day or other all
+your remembrances.
+
+Of news you will expect but little from this region. We hold quiet
+possession of the colonies which surrendered to us, and the cultivation
+and commerce is prosecuted with as much industry as if we were resting
+in the bosom of peace. Great numbers of slaves have been imported, since
+our arrival, and British property is embarked to extend and improve the
+settlements, with no less ardor than might be expected if these valuable
+possessions were confirmed to England by a definitive treaty, guaranteed
+by the strongest powers in Europe.
+
+I lament exceedingly that it is not in my power to announce to you, by
+the present occasion, some progress in the health-improvement which we
+are led to anticipate: we observe that the men are most frequently
+attacked during, or immediately after exposure to great heat or fatigue.
+The more robust and plethoric—those occupied as cooks, or blacksmiths,
+boat parties, men engaged in fishing, non-commissioned officers,
+sentinels, and those who have acted as servants to officers, have been
+most subject to the disease. In particular a boat party, employed to
+fetch water down the river for the use of the hospital and the barracks,
+have been so invariably attacked in a kind of succession upon that duty,
+that it has been found necessary to procure a crew of negroes expressly
+for this purpose. It has also been deemed requisite to abandon the
+comfort derived from the occasional supply of an article of fresh
+provision, in consequence of the men whose business it was to draw the
+seine for fish, being found peculiarly susceptible of the fever.
+
+The speed with which the attack succeeds the exposure to great heat and
+fatigue is no less remarkable, in many instances, than the rapidity with
+which, in these or other cases, the disease runs on to death. Only
+yesterday morning, in returning from the hospital to my breakfast, I was
+accosted, on passing the soldiers’ barrack, and requested to visit the
+drum-major, whom I found dangerously ill with fever; although on my way
+to the hospital, but a short time before, I had seen him walking in the
+cotton-field apparently, and to his own belief, as well as any man in
+the regiment. At the same time I was desired to look at a soldier, who
+was lying at the side of the drum-major, and was said to be complaining.
+This man also proved to be in a dangerous state of fever, and I learned
+that he had been attacked the day before, immediately after hurrying
+nearly a mile to fetch some porter. I likewise saw two or three others,
+in the same barrack, who had been suddenly taken ill on guard, and were
+now about to increase our crowded list at the hospital.
+
+A few days ago, on my passing by the guard-house, I observed a soldier,
+named Chapman, sitting among the men who were upon guard, seemingly
+unwell; and on my asking him if he felt ill, he answered in a firm
+strong voice, that he felt “_a little poorly with head-ach, but not
+ill_;” still I perceived that he had more of indisposition about him
+than he was aware of, and I was particularly led to notice any symptoms
+of disease in this man, from his having been repeatedly an object of
+conversation and remark, in health. He was a hardy robust grenadier,
+and, from having been much exposed on fatigue-duty, in Ireland, during
+the time of the sickness which the troops had experienced at Spike
+Island and at Cove; from having supported much of similar duty on the
+passage; and also a considerable share since his arrival in the West
+Indies, without suffering from it, the officers had pointed him out to
+me, as a person who was “secure against _even yellow fever and the
+doctors_.” He was sitting in his usual clothing, talking to the men of
+the guard, sensible only of slight head-ach, and lassitude; but as I saw
+evidently that it was an attack of fever, I hinted, without mentioning
+this to him, that it would be better he should go to the hospital, if he
+were at all unwell, in order that he might have the benefit of medical
+attendance, and of such remedies as his case required. He instantly
+expressed great alarm, and said, “_I am not ill: if you take me to the
+hospital, I shall catch the fever and die_.” On my stating the
+impropriety of his remaining among the men in health, and not using the
+proper means of recovery, he replied, “_I am not sick, and only want an
+appetite to be quite well_;” and when I urged him further to go into the
+hospital, he answered with quickness, “_Indeed I am not bad, and if I
+were, I would rather stab myself at once, than go where so many are
+dying every day of yellow fever_.” Poor fellow! he was wholly
+unconscious, that the disease, he so much dreaded, was upon him; and as
+I found that his terror of the hospital was quite insurmountable, I did
+not augment his alarm, either by insisting upon his being carried
+thither, or by telling him that the fever had already seized him; but in
+order that he might be removed from the guard-room, I gave directions
+for a hammock to be put up under the piazza of the house, where he might
+be in quiet, and alone. This being done, without delay, I prevailed upon
+him to go directly, and lie down, and was glad to see him safe in bed;
+for, in my conversation with him, I had discovered enough to cause
+strong apprehensions lest he should die, before we could have him
+removed! Although he felt so little of illness, and those around him
+were so wholly insensible of his peril, there was an indescribable
+something about him, particularly in his countenance, which bespake
+extreme danger; and from which an experienced observer might see that he
+was soon to die! After having him placed in the hammock, and prescribing
+for him such remedies as were necessary, I instructed the medical
+gentleman, who had lately arrived at this post to give me assistance, to
+pay particular attention to his case, remarking, that from his present
+appearance, I should not be surprised if, in the course of an hour or
+two, I should learn that he was dead. The event verified my suspicions:
+a convulsive tremor quickly seized him, and at noon he was a corpse!
+Such are the fevers of this climate! Often a man is well in the morning,
+and at night is no more: nor is it possible for any one, who has not
+seen many cases of the disease, to judge of the degree of danger which
+threatens those who are attacked. Chapman had been one of the party
+employed to drag the fishing-net in the sea, and I have been the more
+minute in relating his case, because, in him, the circumstances I have
+mentioned were strikingly exemplified. He was a man who possessed great
+strength of constitution; he had been exposed to the heat of the sun
+immediately previous to the attack; and was very rapidly destroyed by
+the disease.
+
+But you will tell me not to dwell on tales of sadness and distress; I
+obey, and hasten to lead you to a scene of gladness, in which I am sure
+your heart will cordially participate. I had ordered the convalescents
+to be assembled, from all the different wards and hospitals, and paraded
+upon the beach, that I might carefully inspect them, in order to
+ascertain the number fit to be removed to a distant post for change of
+air and place; and to give room at the hospital for the better
+accommodation of the sick; and the pleasure which I witnessed upon the
+countenances of these poor men, and which throbbed at my own heart, on
+the occasion, was far greater than words can tell. A very considerable
+number of pale, feeble, and emaciated beings were brought together, and,
+being drawn up, on the parade, they hailed each other, in cheerful
+greetings, like men raised from the dead. Joy gladdened every eye; the
+comrade hailed his friend as one returned from the grave; all were
+happy, and the delight of again seeing each other, shone in every face.
+The meeting was an exhilarating cordial to them. Mirth and liveliness
+spread around; wit and rapartee prevailed; and they addressed one
+another in quaint jokes, and comic gratulations, descriptive of their
+late dangers, and their present escape. This effect of bringing them
+together gave me great satisfaction: seeing so numerous a body saved
+from the very jaws of death, I was no less gratified than the happiest
+of the party. Their appearance was distressful, and their pallid ghastly
+visages, and wasted figures, to men less conversant with the more
+direful examples of disease, might have conveyed the idea of speedy
+dissolution, rather than of approaching health: but, to those who had
+themselves been in a far worse state, and who had long been lying,
+surrounded with the sick and the dying, nothing in their looks could be
+dispiriting, whilst they and their comrades were able to support
+themselves upon their legs.
+
+We are told by the planters, that since the arrival of the English in
+these settlements, the people of colour are grown unusually disobedient,
+and even insolent; which is attributed to our being more lenient towards
+them, than their Dutch masters were. Whether or not this he admitted as
+the cause, several recent instances have occurred in proof of the fact,
+and which have made it necessary to use means of correcting their
+presumption. Consistently with the rules of the fort, the officer on
+guard is instructed to examine every vessel that passes; but some boats
+going from Mahaica creek, worked by people of colour, have resisted the
+orders of the guard, and, in defiance of the sentinel, attempted to pass
+without bringing to.
+
+We are informed that a system of smuggling was carried on to a great
+extent upon this coast, previous to its falling into our possession, and
+that a very considerable proportion of the produce found its way to the
+English market, notwithstanding the watchfulness of the Dutch local
+government: possibly it was from this adventurous traffic that the
+slaves acquired a disrespect of orders, rather than from the lenity of
+the present rulers of the colonies.
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER XI.
+
+
+                                                  La Bourgade, Sept. 12.
+
+The delayed departure of the officers whose regiments have been
+draughted, affords me an opportunity of addressing to you some
+additional notes by the same conveyance. They have been detained in the
+expectation that some of them might have remained with the 39th
+regiment, in order to have increased its strength in officers, in
+proportion to its increase of privates; but the Commander in Chief not
+acceding to this arrangement, they are all ordered to embark, without
+loss of time, for England, and to take with them the sergeants and
+drummers; yet, on account of the extreme urgency of this sickly period,
+and the very limited number of assistants we have for hospital duty, we
+are allowed to detain the surgeon and mate of the 99th regiment; without
+whom, indeed, we must have been reduced to the greatest distress; for
+the surgeon of this corps has been my best support from the time of our
+arrival, being the only commissioned medical officer I have had with me,
+during the whole of our busy service.
+
+Respecting the destination of the other gentlemen of the hospital staff
+and myself, I have nothing new to add. Incertitude is still the order of
+the day. We remain without receiving either pay or allowances, and
+subsist almost wholly upon our salt rations. Fortunately this is one of
+the few countries where but little money is required, or I should rather
+say, where if a man had much, it might be difficult to spend it. Fruit
+and vegetables are abundant, but the riches of Crœsus could not procure
+a regular supply of fresh animal provisions for our table. For my own
+part I am become so much a creole, and so fond of plantains, that I
+should experience but little hardship if these were the only food.
+
+You will perceive from this letter, that I have again changed my home.
+After I had separated the happy group of convalescents from the sick,
+and removed them to distant quarters upon the coast, I left the patients
+then remaining at Mahaica under the care of Mr. Ord, acting surgeon to
+the 39th regiment, and returned to take charge of the hospital, at our
+greater depôt at La Bourgade. With infinite satisfaction I feel myself
+able to inform you that the high malignity of the disease begins to
+yield to the approach of a more benign season. Since my return hither,
+several patients have been admitted, in whom the fever appears under an
+intermittent type. If it were possible to divest myself of the regret I
+feel on account of the poor men’s sufferings, and from our sick list
+being, by any cause, increased, I might truly say that I received these
+cases with pleasure, hailing them as a pledge that our worst foe has run
+his career; for, if the fever should assume a _remittent_, or an
+_intermittent_ course, we shall know how to oppose ourselves to its
+progress, and to prevent it from repeating the devastations it has
+committed in its _continued_ form.
+
+Still the hospital is sadly crowded, and, from the return made to me of
+the last week, the proportion of casualties does not seem to be yet
+diminished; but they now proceed less from cases recently admitted, than
+from the lingering remains of more violent disease. At the same time I
+may remark, that it is only from receiving a considerable proportion of
+intermittents, at once, that we are led to hope the fever is changing to
+a milder type, for repeated examples occurred, at Mahaica, of different
+patients being brought to the hospital at the same period, with the
+disease under all the varied forms of _intermittent_, _remittent_, and
+_continued_ fever, yet each of them were occasionally converted into the
+most malignant “_yellow_ fever,” and rapidly terminated in death.
+
+Amidst all the afflicting histories of this destructive malady, I should
+rejoice exceedingly if it were in my power to report to you more
+favorably of the patients under surgical treatment in our hospital; but,
+unhappily, at the moment of our greatest pressure and anxiety regarding
+the fever, our services are most called for by the patients with sores
+and ulcers, who likewise feel the sad effects of climate and of season.
+In speaking upon this subject, I ought to add that the attention of Mr.
+Blackader, the surgeon, has been unremitted; and that his abilities are
+not less eminent than his zeal. His patients have been watched with a
+tender care, and he has been indefatigable in his endeavours to relieve
+them; the more so from their sufferings having been peculiarly the
+subject of our conversation. We are willing to hope that the unhappy
+difficulties he has met with, in his practice, may be more the effect of
+season than of climate, and that as the fevers grow milder with finer
+weather, the wounds and ulcers will also assume a more healthy
+disposition.
+
+Whether from a wound, a scratch, the bite of a musquito, or the simplest
+excoriation, the progress of the sore has been the same. It seems, at
+first, to go on kindly, gradually advancing in a healing state, but
+before it is quite well, the patient loses his appetite, feels sickly,
+or is attacked with a febrile paroxysm, and sinks into a state of
+relaxation and debility; with the skin and muscles flaccid, the
+countenance pale, and the whole frame languid, and weak. The ulcer
+partaking of the general change grows black and foul, and, sloughing
+away, becomes wider and deeper than it was at first. After a time, the
+patient recovers his lost strength, and by the aid of bark, wine, and
+tonics, the part again assumes a healthy aspect, florid granulations
+form, and the healing process is renewed. Proceeding now as before it
+often reaches that state, which creates the daily hope of a new cuticle
+forming over it to complete the cure: but a febrile exacerbation again
+seizes the patient, and the whole disastrous round is repeated. The
+disease extends itself still wider than before, and the energies of the
+system being further impaired, it is longer ere it throws off its
+foulness, to take on a clean and healthy appearance. Yet this does
+follow, and the now wide and ragged sore again begins to heal. The
+patient likewise recovers a degree of strength, but remains considerably
+weakened. The healing of the wound advances, though slowly, and again
+holds out fair prospects to the miserable sufferer; but, before it has
+cicatrized with new skin, he relapses, the ulcer blackens, becomes foul
+and offensive, and the parts around slough away to a frightful extent;
+the patient sinking far below his former debility. He next recovers but
+a slight degree of strength; and the sore only clears itself to widen
+its ravages; the appetite is destroyed; extreme lassitude prevails;
+cough, and hectic fever supervene; and the patient lingers out a few
+wretched weeks, until death kindly offers him relief. Often the event is
+more rapid; but it happens not unfrequently that the patient is deluded
+three, four, or more times with the fairest prospect of recovery, then,
+suddenly and without any apparent cause, is thrown back, growing more
+and more feeble from each attack, until every energy of the constitution
+is exhausted.
+
+Having witnessed, with extreme pain, the cruel sufferings of this class
+of our patients, we are particularly happy to avail ourselves of the
+present return of the officers, to put a party of sick, from the
+surgical wards, under their protection to England, where they will have
+the chance of speedy recovery, and of soon returning to their duty. As
+our hospitals will be thus considerably relieved, I shall be the better
+enabled to spare the services of Mr. Beane, one of our most useful
+assistants, whom I have placed on board to take charge of them upon the
+passage. I should remark that the season proves almost equally sickly
+among the Dutch troops as the English, although far less fatal. With the
+Hollanders the fever has been milder, and of a remittent type, giving
+way to the common treatment used in what is termed the bilious remittent
+fever of the country. The Dutch surgeon-major, who has been many years
+in the colony, is now upon the sick list; but, in him, the fever appears
+as an intermittent. On calling to visit him, I found him in a regular
+paroxysm of ague, the form which the fever very commonly assumes among
+the creoles, and the negroes.
+
+We have lately had the misfortune to be deprived of another of our
+assistants, but his loss was the effect of accident. He was stationed at
+Maiconuy, where he was in the habit of bathing frequently in the river.
+One evening, as he was taking his favorite exercise of swimming across
+to the opposite bank, he suddenly disappeared, and was seen no more. We
+do not learn that any one was in the water with him at the time, but
+those who have since been here, from that post, inform us that it was
+generally attributed to an alligator seizing him, and suddenly dragging
+him down.
+
+The return of our comrades to England gives me an opportunity of sending
+you the first copy of a new periodical paper, just published in this
+colony, called the Demarara Gazette. You will find from the composition
+no less than from the printing, and the paper, that it is quite an
+original.
+
+But what will you say of our growing importance when I tell you, that we
+have not only a newspaper established, to afford us all the advantages
+of a speedy circulation of intelligence; and a strong regiment of black
+rangers, raised for the defence of the colony; but that we have also a
+colonial corps, formed from among the respectable part of the
+inhabitants, for the mutual protection of each other’s property, and for
+the general defence of the settlement.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XII.
+
+
+                                                     Demarara, Sept. 30.
+
+Alas, my friend! the unwilling expectation is at length fulfilled, and I
+now lift my pen with a hand trembling and enfeebled, almost beyond the
+power of supporting even a feather! The disease which has committed such
+devastations amongst us, has dealt me a blow, which all, who witnessed
+it, believed to have fallen from the hand of death; and, indeed, the
+shock had nearly brought me to the still home from whence there is no
+return. But let me not trespass upon your friendly sympathy by dwelling
+upon the dark shade of the picture: let me rather hasten to tell you,
+that the danger is past—that I am a convalescent from a severe attack of
+the “_yellow_” fever, and am looking towards returning health.
+
+You will expect the particulars: I proceed therefore to lay before you
+the history of the case, whilst all the circumstances of it are fresh in
+my recollection, although, in truth, I feel them too deeply engraven
+ever to be effaced. In perusing them, you will discover that the
+invasion of the disease was not less insidious, than its progress has
+been dangerous. On Saturday the 17th inst. excepting only the time
+occupied in my morning and evening visits at the hospital, I sat the
+whole of the day in my room, busily employed in writing. In the evening
+I felt an aching sensation in the middles of my thighs, which I
+attributed to sitting so many hours upon a rough wooden chair. At
+tea-time I joined the gentlemen of the hospital mess, and afterwards
+invited the surgeon to accompany me in a promenade, hoping to walk away
+the uneasy weight which I felt in my limbs; but the exercise failing of
+success, I bathed and went early to bed, not suspecting the enemy that
+lurked in my veins. But I was again disappointed; for, instead of being
+relieved by sleep, a severe head-ach and pain of the eyes, with great
+thirst and dryness of mouth, supervened, and I passed a disturbed and
+restless night. Awakened suspicion now taught me that I was attacked by
+an evil much more formidable, than the wooden stool; I therefore took
+some medicine, and remained in bed until noon: yet from having, several
+times, experienced similar symptoms, and nearly equal in degree, whilst
+I was on duty at Mahaica, I was willing to believe that it might be only
+a false alarm. The medicine produced some benefit; I sat up during the
+afternoon, and in the evening made my visit, as usual, at the hospital:
+but feelings of languor and general indisposition were hovering about
+me, and I returned to my pillow at an early hour, again hoping that
+sleep would bring me a cure; but a most wretched night unveiled the
+delusion. All the symptoms of disease were highly aggravated, and I was
+assured that I had now to oppose, in my own person, the insatiate foe,
+whose ravages, upon others, I had so frequently deplored. No time was to
+be lost. All the powers of my body seemed to have deserted me; but the
+faculties of my mind were unimpaired.
+
+The disorder now rushed upon me with accumulated force, hurrying on
+towards rapid destruction. The light was intolerable, and the pulsations
+of the head and eyes were most excruciating, feeling as if several hooks
+were fastened into the globe of each eye, and some person, standing
+behind me, were dragging them forcibly from their orbits, back into the
+head; the cerebrum being, at the same time, detached from its membranes,
+and leaping about violently within the cranium. A wearying pain occupied
+my back and limbs, and in particular the calves of my legs, as if dogs
+were gnawing down to the bones; while a tormenting restlessness
+possessed my whole frame, and prevented even the slightest approach to
+ease or quiet. The skin was burning, and conveyed a pungent sensation
+when touched: the pulse was quickened but not very full: the tongue was
+white and parched, with great thirst, and constant dryness of the mouth,
+lips, and teeth. I know not from which I suffered most, the severe pain,
+the insatiable thirst, or the unappeasable restlessness; for each was
+equally insupportable, and might have sufficed to exhaust the strongest
+frame. Combining their tortures, they created a degree of irritation
+amounting almost to phrensy; and which, but for the means used to
+alleviate it, must have destroyed me in a few hours. No ease was to be
+found: not even a momentary respite was granted from this excessive
+torment. It was under these symptoms that I requested the surgeon to
+take twelve or fourteen ounces of blood from my arm, and to give me a
+strong dose of calomel. This was on Monday morning the 19th inst. the
+attack having commenced on the evening of Saturday the 17th. The pain of
+the head and eyes was considerably relieved by the bleeding; the
+restlessness was also in a slight degree diminished; but the thirst,
+with heat and dryness of skin, still continued. I drank copiously of
+mild diluents, and the calomel acted freely as an evacuant: still I had
+no rest, but passed a third night in extreme suffering. On the 20th the
+pain was less severe, and the light less intolerable; but the other
+symptoms of fever remained, together with an increased degree of languor
+and debility: I therefore avoided further evacuations, and took a saline
+medicine with camphire. The night was, again, most painfully restless,
+sleep was wholly denied me, and I felt myself sinking into a most
+perilous exhaustion.
+
+In the morning of the 21st I was free from the high action of fever; the
+heat and pain had subsided, the pulse was less quick, and I was in a
+copious perspiration: but the whiteness of tongue remained, with an
+irritating and unquenchable thirst; and in proportion as the more
+violent symptoms abated, others, equally distressing supervened. My
+strength and voice were gone; an indescribable uneasiness affected my
+whole body; I was attacked with an exhausting diarrhœa; felt a most
+annihilating sensation at the scrobiculus cordis; and sunk into an
+inconceivable degree of languor and prostration.
+
+The day and night were passed in a wearisome and distressing manner; and
+with my bodily powers so rapidly declining, that I was more and more
+enfeebled every hour. On the 22d scarcely a hope remained of my
+recovery. Every energy of the system seemed to be subdued; debility had
+reached its extremest degree; and it appeared to require only a sigh to
+sever the thread of life.
+
+I was now so reduced as to be no longer able to support myself upon my
+side, in bed; but lay supine, and prostrate, with my flaccid limbs
+stretched in full extension, and which, if they were lifted from their
+place, fell lifeless upon the same spot. A weakening diarrhœa continued,
+and a still more debilitating vomiting was superadded. Upon the
+slightest motion I fell into syncope, and was so exhausted as to faint
+if my head were raised from the pillow. My fauces were parched and dry;
+I had extreme thirst, together with a feeling of languor and sinking at
+the epigastrium, and a degree of restlessness over my whole frame, which
+it is utterly impossible to describe.
+
+Thus situated, I contemplated the probable event, and having calmly
+reconciled the thought of dying, I endeavoured, in broken whisper, to
+utter a few words to the surgeon, for him to commit to paper as my will;
+to which, with his guidance, a feeble and trembling hand traced my
+signature, but in characters which I now find to be scarcely legible.
+This ceremony was executed with the greatest composure of mind; for I
+was never more collected, or more tranquil. Death seemed to look me full
+in the face, at the time; but I received his commands without a
+disturbed emotion. In soft and tender regret, indeed, I lamented that I
+could not see my friends in England; nor cast a look of grateful
+affection upon my beloved mother, before I departed; but these
+privations, deeply sorrowful as they were, yielded also to what seemed
+to be the will of Heaven; and, in tranquil resignation, I breathed a
+dying blessing to you all. Still I felt that I ought not to reject such
+means of relief as my profession offered, whilst even a possibility
+remained of being saved; I made myself understood therefore, by Mr.
+Blackader, and expressed a wish to have large quantities of bark and
+opium, with wine, and the cold bath. Colonel Hislop, the commanding
+officer, actuated by the most amiable feelings, very kindly expressed a
+wish that I should be visited by some of the medical gentlemen of the
+country. This was a proposal to which I could form no possible
+objection; although my own sensations had dictated the remedies which I
+meant to employ. Two of the most eminent practitioners of the colony
+were accordingly requested to see me, and it were ungrateful not to
+express the acknowledgments I owe them for their friendly attention and
+advice. Happily their opinions coincided very much with my own,
+respecting the means to be used in the stage of the disease under which
+they saw me; and they approved of every part of my prescription, the
+cold bath only excepted. I was wholly incapable of conversing with them,
+but their remarks to Mr. Blackader did not escape my ear.
+
+The fierce ardor of fever, the painful throbbing of the head and eyes,
+and the pungent dryness of skin, were very much diminished, and the
+pulse, though enfeebled, was not much quicker than in health. The
+prescribed remedies were used with great freedom. Happily the opium
+quickly arrested the retching, and also the diarrhœa; which allowed the
+bark and wine, and bathing to be employed with less reserve; and I
+persevered with such effect, that in the course of only a few hours, I
+had no less than _six ounces_ of the powder of bark (swallowed and
+otherwise administered) and a bottle of sound old hock remaining in my
+stomach and bowels.
+
+Of the wine and bathing I know not in what terms to speak, for language
+has no power to express the delightful sensations which these most
+grateful remedies conveyed to my exhausted frame. I was more refreshed
+by them, more revived, and more relieved, than words can tell. To the
+bark and opium I was perhaps quite as much indebted, but their effects
+were less immediate, and less sensible. For many years I had not tasted
+wine; now I was to take it as a medical potion; and, in order to rank it
+high in this character, the commissary had kindly sent me some very
+choice _old hock_, which, in great truth, was both food and medicine to
+me! The peculiar and exquisite sensations I experienced, when the first
+glass of it wetted my parched lips, and cooled my burning stomach, will
+be remembered to my latest hour.
+
+The bathing was scarcely inferior to the wine, for at a moment when
+ineffable languor was rapidly sinking my weakened body to the grave, I
+was lifted out of my bed, into an empty bathing-tub, and cold sea water
+was dashed upon my naked person, with an effect which exceeds all
+description. Not only were the sensations of the moment inconceivably
+refreshing and delightful, but the more durable and important benefits
+were equally striking. Previous to bathing I fainted, on my head being
+only lifted up from the pillow; but after being taken out of the
+bathing-tub, I was able, with due support, to sit up for nearly ten
+minutes, while three persons, with rough cloths, rubbed me dry.
+
+Although I was not delirious, I perceived a peculiar sense of confusion,
+or horror about me at various times during this day, and lapsed
+occasionally into a sort of stupor, approaching to coma, but it did not
+proceed to such a degree as to deprive me of consciousness; the powers
+of memory and volition were still at my command; and, when I was roused,
+it was remarked that my mental faculties were unimpaired: and, as a
+proof that I was not insensible to what passed in the room, I may tell
+you that I felt, with full force, all the probability of the remark, and
+was too well aware how strongly appearances might justify it, when I
+heard some of the officers exclaim, as they turned away, after silently
+looking at me through my musquito curtain, “_Ah, poor doctor! we shall
+never see him again!_”
+
+This had been my worst day: the feelings of the night I cannot attempt
+to describe! All was horror, horror, restless deadly horror! The
+sickened mind became unsettled as its troubled mansion, and, like the
+body, was only sensible to disease and wretchedness.
+
+The dawn of the next day seemed like an introduction to a new existence.
+The indescribable and distressing sensations, which had so cruelly
+afflicted me, were in some degree diminished, and the violence of the
+other symptoms was slightly moderated:—an important change indeed! But,
+however happy, it was such as no man need be anxious to experience.
+Circumstanced as I then was, to me it had all the semblance of a change
+from death to life: but with such extreme misery and horror was it
+accompanied, that, could these have continued many hours longer, life
+would have been bought at too dear a purchase, to have regained it at
+such a price. The mind was crowded with confused and incoherent ideas,
+painting the world as new, and altogether different from that which I
+seemed to have so lately left; indeed, so distorted and unnatural did
+every thing around me appear, that I felt a kind of hesitation whether
+to accept of my return to life, or proceed onward to the grave, which I
+saw wide open before me. This was the sixth day. The morning was dark
+and gloomy, and highly calculated to favor the sombre impressions of my
+mind. The whole day, and a sad long night were dragged out in all the
+tumult and distress of regaining an existence, which only a day or two
+before, I could have given up almost without a sigh.
+
+After I had escaped from these distracting incoherences, I perceived the
+symptoms of the disease gradually declining, and, by persisting in the
+use of my remedies, I am become better reconciled to the world, and
+again recognise it as the same which I had so quietly resigned. I
+continued to drink most liberally of old hock, and took the bark in
+unmeasured quantity, the extent and frequency of the dose being limited
+only by the power of the stomach and bowels to retain it. The bathing
+was also repeated with inexpressible comfort to my languid and trembling
+frame. I took also copious draughts of bottled porter, which I found to
+be an exceedingly grateful and refreshing drink, as well as one of my
+most effectual remedies.
+
+The thirst and dryness of the mouth, lips, and teeth continued to annoy
+me until the eighth day. Great languor and prostration of strength were
+still present on the ninth; as were likewise, at intervals, the
+distressful sensations of horror and wretchedness. On the tenth, the
+return of strength was perceptible, although I had much dizziness, and
+faintness, and was afflicted with a troublesome deafness, which is still
+the companion of my convalescence. Since the tenth day my recovery has
+been very rapid. The debility is not so great as might have been
+expected, and my appetite is strong and craving. Dainties in eating are
+not to be had, and fortunately I do not require them; for no turtle
+feast was ever enjoyed with greater relish than I now take, at noon, my
+plain English fare, of a crust of bread, with a morsel of cheese, and a
+deep draught of bottled porter.
+
+Many apologies are due for troubling you with this tedious detail of
+_self_; for sadly tedious I fear you will find it, notwithstanding my
+having confined my pen, as much as possible, to a bare narration of the
+feelings I experienced, and the perils I had to encounter. During the
+whole course of the disease, I have not had any mark of yellowness—that
+symptom from which the fever has been, erroneously, named.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XIII.
+
+
+                                Plantation Hope, Mahaica, Oct. 21, 1796.
+
+If I had not already endeavoured to do justice to the universal
+hospitality which prevails in these colonies, I might enumerate, in
+proof of it, the many instances of friendly attention which I have
+experienced during the convalescence from my late attack of fever. Every
+table was at my command, every house my home, and every planter my
+friend. If it were not an injustice to particularize, I might mention to
+you the signal obligations I owe to Captain Mac-Rae, one of the
+gentlemen of the colony, now holding a company in the corps of South
+American rangers, and to his brother, from whose house I have now the
+pleasure to address you. The captain made me daily visits, and watched
+me with all the care of fraternal solicitude, during my sickness; and as
+soon as he saw me able to be moved, he not only proposed that I should
+make his brother’s house my convalescent abode, but, without any trouble
+or concern on my own part, provided me the means of conveyance, and
+himself accompanied me hither; where I have been received with the most
+cordial welcome, entertained with unaffected urbanity, and, I may say,
+nursed with sincere and affectionate attention by his brother; for not
+only have all the accommodations of the house been mine, but the
+friendship of this generous man has led him to procure also the best
+restoratives of the neighbourhood for the re-establishment of my health,
+and the recovery of my lost strength.
+
+Since my arrival here, I have felt very strong symptoms of relapse, but,
+by the powerful aid of bark and Madeira wine, the threatened return of
+fever has been successfully resisted. I had been strongly cautioned, by
+the gentlemen of the colony, to “beware of _the springs_,”—implying that
+the disease would be likely to renew its attack at the full of the moon:
+I was prepared, therefore, to meet the first uneasy sensations with the
+appropriate remedies. On the 14th instant my head was in pain, my limbs
+ached, and I had general feelings of languor and restlessness; when,
+recollecting the remark so often made to me, and which had been in some
+measure confirmed by my own observations in the hospitals, I turned to
+the almanack, and found that the moon was to be at the full on the
+sixteenth: without delay, therefore, I had recourse to the bark, and
+drank a twofold portion of wine, but the symptoms continued to menace me
+with a renewal of fever until the eighteenth, after which they subsided,
+precisely as I had been assured would happen, with _the decline of the
+spring-tides_.
+
+I am extremely sorry to inform you that, since my last letter giving you
+an account of my own illness, Mr. Blackader, to whose unwearied
+attentions I was so essentially indebted during my confinement, has
+received a rude visit from our common enemy: at the same time it gives
+me sincere pleasure to add that he is recovered, and that the disease
+has been slighter, and his sufferings less severe, than in my own case;
+which I think we are justified in attributing to the attack being less
+insidious, and his having been twice blooded within the first twelve
+hours of the disease. We were both of opinion that if I had used
+venæsection earlier I should have suffered less, and it is probable that
+if I had not been blooded at all, I should not have held the pen to you
+now: accordingly we employed our means with more boldness and
+promptitude, when Mr. Blackader was seized, and thereby prevented the
+consuming action of the fever from producing the still more destructive
+symptoms of exhaustion. Others, I am aware, might tell you that the
+extreme languor and prostration of strength, which sunk me so near to
+the grave, were _induced_ by the bleeding; although I feel but little
+doubt that they proceeded from the _neglect_ of it, and were the effect
+of the exhausting symptoms which prevailed at the commencement of the
+disease; but which might have been moderated by an earlier loss of
+blood, and prevented from throwing the system into a state of debility,
+which rendered my situation nearly as hopeless as it was alarming. After
+all, I lament that this is only matter of opinion, however much
+experience may have confirmed it, in my mind, as an established fact.
+
+It is now said to be the short dry season; but within the few last days
+we have had many heavy showers of rain, and more wet has fallen than is
+common in this month. Still the weather, and our muddy roads are greatly
+improved, and what is more important, we have far less of sickness. On
+my removal, from La Bourgade to Mr. Mac-Rae’s, I resumed my attendance
+at the Mahaica hospital, and I have great satisfaction in being able to
+remark that the number of patients is not one-sixth so great, nor their
+diseases by any means so malignant, as when I was here before.
+
+Since my arrival at my friendly convalescent quarters, at the Hope, two
+circumstances have offered to my notice, which afford very striking
+examples of the character of slaves, and which you would not excuse me
+if I were to omit noting. A French privateer, which, for some time past,
+had been lurking about the leeward coast of these colonies, had captured
+a considerable number of small vessels, and, in particular, several
+which the planters had been in the habit of sending down to Essequibo to
+fetch plantains, as provisions for the slaves. Among these, two boats
+lately fell into their hands, belonging to Mr. Kendall and Mr. Green,
+the latter of whom resides not far distant from the Hope; but on account
+of the privateer not having hands enough, on board, to man all her
+prizes, the negroes of Mr. Kendall’s boat were put on board that
+belonging to Mr. Green, and three or four sailors sent from the
+privateer to carry them into Trinidad. On the passage the Frenchmen
+talked much to the negroes about _liberty_, _equality_, and the _rights
+of man_, in all the common jargon of the revolution; holding out to them
+the high enjoyment of gaining their freedom; and assuring them that they
+would be carried from Trinidad to Guadaloupe, where they would be
+released from their slavery, become fellow-citizens, and remain in
+future _their own masters_. But these poor blacks, having been treated
+with great kindness and humanity by their owners, and not having been
+bred in the modern Gallic school, could not be made to comprehend the
+fascinating doctrine of _equality_. They rejected therefore the
+proffered _French liberty_; and instead of rejoicing, as it was supposed
+they would, to accept their freedom from the hands of these
+revolutionists, they concerted a plan to rescue the boat, and take it
+back to their masters; in which attempt they met with complete success;
+but unhappily it was attended with that savage inhumanity which
+characterizes the Africans. A little before they came within sight of
+Trinidad they seized an opportunity of rising upon the Frenchmen, and,
+not satisfied with subduing them, they murdered every one of them, and
+threw their mangled bodies into the sea: then, like faithful slaves, put
+the boat about, and made the best of their way up the coast, returning,
+much pleased, to their owners, and to their task of slavery. The party
+consisted of five negroes belonging to Mr. Kendall, and three (two men
+and a boy) belonging to Mr. Green. On my asking them why they did not
+bring the Frenchmen on shore as prisoners, instead of killing them,
+their reply spake one of the unhappy truths of slavery, and proved that
+the lives of these unfortunate Frenchmen were sacrificed to an unjust
+law always operating against the negroes. “_Ah Massa_,” said they, “_we
+’fraid ’em tell lies upon us, and him people always believe backra man
+sooner as negro ... so we tink it best for kill ’em all_.” These poor
+slaves were aware that against the evidence of a white man, whether it
+were true or false, they could not be heard; therefore, to prevent the
+possibility of any incorrect reports of their prisoners operating to
+their prejudice, they deemed it wise to secure themselves the privilege
+of giving their testimony in the cause of truth, by destroying those
+whose voices might have prevented it.
+
+The other circumstance was likewise one in which the blacks were equally
+true to each other, and equally acted in concert; but it was in a widely
+different case. Two negroes who had stolen a trunk from their master,
+containing clothes, a brace of pistols, and a pocket-book, with notes
+and bills to the amount of 2000_l._ submitted repeatedly to severe
+punishment, and would probably have suffered death, rather than have
+broken the faith which they had pledged to one another: but a wily old
+slave, by means of a well-devised stratagem, obtained a confession of
+the theft from each of them, separately; and prevented the necessity of
+extorting it, by a further infliction of the chastisement.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XIV.
+
+
+                                             La Bourgade, Nov. 17, 1796.
+
+For some time past we have been anxiously looking for news from England.
+Papers are at length arrived, and we read, that instead of drawing nigh
+to a peace, we are only now entering upon a wide-spreading war.
+
+By inspecting the map you will find that our situation upon this coast
+is now rendered peculiarly interesting. The Spaniards are on our left,
+to leeward; the Dutch and French to windward, on our right; close in our
+rear are heavy and impenetrable forests, inhabited by wild and naked
+tribes; and our whole front is bounded by the open sea. Our new foes,
+the Dons, will have more cause of alarm from us, than we can possibly
+have from them: being to leeward of us, we shall be able to run down, at
+any time, and surprise them at Trinidad, or the Caraccas: whereas it
+might require a voyage of many days for them to make their passage,
+against the trade winds, far enough to annoy us with any effect:
+further, the superiority of our fleet gives us so entirely the command
+of the coast, that the Spanish vessels may be expected to afford a
+plentiful harvest to our sloops and privateers.
+
+An express, announcing the arrival of a reinforcement of medical
+officers from Martinique, called me, somewhat suddenly, from my
+hospitable quarters, at Mahaica. On hearing that these gentlemen were
+come, the suggestion naturally occurred, that it was a detachment from
+the hospital staff of the Charibbee islands, sent to relieve the
+division of the St. Domingo staff, and to set us at liberty to proceed
+to our original destination: but, so far from this being the case, the
+reinforcement consists only of a garrison surgeon and a mate; and
+instead of orders being sent us to set off for St. Domingo, I have
+received copies of hospital papers, and instructions for my guidance, in
+directing the duties of the medical department of these colonies.
+
+I now feel it a severe mortification, that I should have so long
+arranged for my letters to be sent to St. Domingo; but I hope to be more
+fortunate in saying ... write to me _at Demarara_.
+
+Of myself I need not speak, for my strength is so rapidly returning that
+I scarcely belong either to the list of sick or convalescents. My
+comrade, Mr. Blackader, is also growing strong, and forgetting his
+invalid feelings; but Mr. Jordan, one of my assistants, has suffered a
+late attack, from which, after much danger, he is only slowly
+recovering. Having before mentioned to you the circumstance of the
+relapses of fever corresponding remarkably with the periods of the moon,
+I may now tell you, that the fact was particularly noticed in the case
+of this gentleman. He suffered a relapse during his early convalescence,
+and it was remarked that, on the same day, four of the patients in the
+hospital had a renewed attack of the fever. This coincidence led us to
+look at the almanack, when it was found to be the day previous to the
+change of the moon.
+
+Mr. Blackader with our recovering assistant and myself, all in different
+stages of convalescence, having met together a few evenings ago, it
+happened that the conversation turned from yellow fever, and other ills,
+to the many comforts of dear England. If you could know how gratefully
+our minds were absorbed on this inexhaustible subject, and the high
+delight which we were led to contemplate, in returning to the tranquil
+enjoyments of that happy and salubrious home, you might almost envy us a
+long absence, and the danger of never seeing our native island again!
+
+The reports from Martinique, Grenada, and St. Lucie, respecting the
+ravages of disease, I am sorry to find, are not more favorable than our
+own. The great scourge of the climate has made sad havoc in those
+islands, and the medical officers have suffered in full proportion. Of
+the physicians who were attached to the windward expedition, four have
+already fallen victims to disease, viz. Doctors Riollay, Story, Clifton,
+and Suttleworth. With sincere grief I likewise hear of the death of poor
+Colonel Gammell, who so lately left us in robust health. In his loss the
+service has to lament a most valuable officer. The removal of this
+gentleman and his comrades of the 93d regiment from these colonies,
+instead of being accompanied with all the comfort which attached to the
+prospect of returning to England, seems to have been only the signal of
+unhappy events. Whilst they remained together at Berbische, under
+Colonel Gammell’s excellent rules of command, the whole of the officers
+were singularly healthy, but the suspension of the regular system which
+he had maintained, and a total relaxation from duty, together with the
+hurry of embarkation, and, perhaps, the liberal glass at parting from
+other comrades, while they have unfortunately removed the happy
+exemption from disease, which those gentlemen had enjoyed, have also
+proved the high utility of a rigid and correct discipline in these
+destructive regions.
+
+One of the officers of the 93d died at Demarara, whither he had arrived
+from Berbische, preparatory to going on board the ship in which he was
+to have proceeded to England: now, we hear of the death of Colonel
+Gammell at Martinique: a third officer, of the same regiment, was
+prevented from embarking with his comrades by an attack of fever, which
+nearly deprived him of life, and which still detains him among us. The
+Colonel left Demarara at the time I was lying dangerously ill, and was
+one of the friends who, on turning from my bed-side, shook his head, and
+despaired of ever seeing me again. Alas! I grieve to find him so correct
+in the fact, although his apprehensions did not go to the event
+precisely as it occurred; for, little did he expect that it would be my
+lot to live, and thus soon deplore his death!
+
+At the La Bourgade hospital, as well as at Mahaica, we feel the effect
+of the present dry season, the numbers on our sick list being
+considerably less than for several months past; yet the sad remains of
+expiring disease have lately afforded us too frequent opportunities of
+prosecuting the comparative examinations I before mentioned to you; and
+we have availed ourselves of them to a considerable extent. Among the
+advantages arising from the late dry weather in these colonies, no one
+is more conspicuous than the improvement which it has effected in our
+deep and muddy roads. Hitherto they have been intolerably bad; indeed,
+on account of the great depth of wet and stiff clay, almost impassable.
+At present they are dry, and, from being upon a perfect level, and the
+clay being hardened and worn smooth, they are as fine roads, for
+travelling, as the very best in England.
+
+Since the weather has been settled, we find the thermometer rise
+occasionally at noon as high as 86 or 87: usually it has been from 82 to
+85. This climate is perhaps one of the most steady in the world, the
+range of the thermometer, upon the cultivated part of the coast, being
+only from 11 to 15 degrees. Most commonly the mercury is at 73 at six
+o’clock in the morning; and at noon 84. The lowest I have seen it, at
+any time, was 72; and the highest 87. From living in constant heat and
+relaxation our bodies become highly sensible to cold, and I sometimes
+feel my fingers chilly, as in an autumnal morning in England, although
+the thermometer be as high as 74.
+
+Since the arrival of the garrison surgeon and assistant, our department
+has been further strengthened with the addition of a deputy-purveyor,
+and some hospital-mates. These gentlemen are come in good time to enjoy
+the evening shade of our toils. We have supported the severe labour and
+fatigue of the sickly season without them, and they now find us well
+seasoned in our duty, and with our hospitals far less crowded. When we
+most wanted them, their services were most required in the islands, and
+now we have less occasion for them, they can best be spared. However, I
+am busily engaged in making up the returns, and all the necessary
+accounts and hospital papers, from the time of our arrival in these
+colonies, and shall hope soon to be relieved from one branch of my late
+duty, by resigning to our newly arrived deputy-purveyor the business of
+his department.
+
+Rumour has lately threatened us with an attack from Surinam, but we feel
+no alarm on this subject; having an adequate force to meet the enemy at
+sea, and troops enough on shore, to resist any detachment which the
+Dutch might be able to send from that colony.
+
+On my way down the coast lately from Mahaica, I observed among the
+slaves, what to me was a novelty; although I was told, by a gentleman of
+the colony, that it was by no means uncommon. In one of the fields we
+passed a gang of negroes employed at their labour, with a female driver
+carrying the whip at their backs. On my remarking that it was not a
+becoming duty for the _beau sexe_—that the nature of the lady might be
+too tender to admit of her correcting the strong; and her arm too feeble
+to enable her to chastise the idle; my companion replied, that I was
+much mistaken, for, on the contrary, the “_women drivers_” were
+sometimes peculiarly severe, and often corrected the stoutest slaves
+with no feeble arm.
+
+The following anecdote forces upon my mind a fact which is perhaps
+universally observed, viz. that where the population is thin, the
+society confined to a few, and the intercourse with other places bounded
+by narrow limits, trifles gain importance, and occurrences which, in
+themselves, are insignificant, become subjects of conversation, and of
+interest.
+
+From the great heat of climate, and the consequent rapidity with which
+dead animal matter tends to resume its gaseous form, it is become a
+custom here, for the butcher, when he is about to kill beef, to secure
+the sale of the whole carcase, before he slaughters the animal: for
+which purpose he sends round a ticket or notice informing the
+inhabitants when the beef is to be killed, in order that each person may
+write down what part, and what quantity he may wish to have. It is
+likewise a practice among the Dutch people to give notice when any
+person dies, inviting the neighbours to the funeral, by means of a paper
+which is commonly superscribed, in conspicuous characters, “_doed
+brief_.” A Dutch officer having died, the burial-ticket was despatched
+in due form, when a lady who had lately arrived from Barbadoes, reading
+the words “doed brief,” put down her name for “twelve pounds and a half
+of the buttock.” The messenger proceeding throughout the town with the
+notice, the mistake was quickly known in every house, and the gloomy
+solemnity of the occasion was interrupted by the various witticisms,
+upon the English lady bespeaking twelve pounds and a half of the
+Dutchman’s buttock.
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER XV.
+
+
+                                                      Demarara, Nov. 30.
+
+How shall I tell you the high delight of this happy week! Need I say
+more, than that three letters have reached me from England, being the
+first that I have received since leaving my home and my friends! A small
+packet was sent to my quarters by the commandant, having come with his
+letters from Martinique; and it would require a long absence, from those
+you esteem, to enable you to judge of the transport I felt, when, on
+fixing my eye on the superscription, I discovered that they were letters
+from England. They had been put into the army bag at the war-office, and
+being addressed to the head-quarters of the “army in the West Indies,”
+were fortunately sent to Martinique instead of St. Domingo, and from
+thence forwarded hither.
+
+I have again to announce to you a change of season in these regions.
+During the latter part of this month, we have had frequent returns of
+rain, and the weather is by no means so clear and fine as it was in
+October, and the beginning of November: but we are told that the short
+wet season is setting in, which will continue five or six weeks; and
+that we are afterwards to expect a long dry season of three or four
+months.
+
+I remarked to you before, that in consequence of St. Domingo being far
+to leeward, we very seldom receive any news from thence, except by way
+of England; but a vessel is now arrived at Demarara, which was some
+weeks ago at St. Domingo, and I am sorry to observe that the captain
+brings a very afflicting report of the sickness which prevails in that
+colony; such, alas! as renders all that we have suffered, here,
+comparatively light.
+
+It has again occurred to us to witness a striking coincidence of both
+the attack and relapse of fever, with the period of the spring-tides.
+Yesterday four of the convalescents in the hospital relapsed into ague,
+and to-day five new patients were admitted with the same disease, all of
+whom were likewise attacked yesterday, only a few hours before the
+change of moon.
+
+I can scarcely excuse myself for committing what I know will be a
+trespass upon your feelings; yet I cannot avoid remarking that an
+immense field has lately opened to my contemplation—that a huge and
+frightful volume has been laid before me, upon the important subject of
+army economy; and that I grieve to discover how much the high sentiments
+of honor which ought to attach to every military employment, are
+sacrificed to personal interest, and a mere traffic for pecuniary gain.
+It is lamentable to see how grossly the sacred laws of morality are
+outraged; and to know in what various instances the confidence reposed
+in the servants of the public is abused. To such an extent is it
+carried, in some instances, that a man of integrity and correct
+principle is regarded as a noxious weed, which, not kindly taking root
+in the corrupt soil where it is planted, many would desire to pluck up
+and cast from among them.
+
+What think you of a person holding a commission in his Majesty’s service
+gravely recommending to another officer to “_lock up his conscience in a
+strong box before he comes out with the army again, and resume it on his
+return_?” The reply to his _friendly_ advice, was such as to diffuse a
+blush, where, I much suspect, none had been seated for a long time
+before; and, I apprehend that, in future, he will be more cautious of
+avowing his _very honorable_ sentiments. I wish it could be remarked
+that the opinions and conduct of this man are singular: but, alas! there
+are too many proofs that they are far, _very far_ from being uncommon:
+although but few may be hardy enough to declare them.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XVI.
+
+
+                                             La Bourgade, Dec. 20, 1796.
+
+With a becoming attention to the health and well-being of our new corps
+of Rangers, it has been deemed expedient to remove them from their
+encampment, and place them in barracks, in order to protect them from
+the rains of the short wet season which now prevails: but unluckily for
+the peace and quiet of our neighbourhood, a large building has been
+fitted up for their accommodation, close to the quarters of the medical
+officers, and we have all the noise, hurry, and confusion of the whole
+regiment constantly before us. The scene amidst which we are placed, by
+this arrangement, exceeds all conception, for it is of all degrees, and
+all varieties: but whether gay or serious, trivial or important, sombre
+or ludicrous, it is always noisy and turbulent. The activity and
+exertion which are required, to bring such recruits into habits of
+method and order, are almost beyond belief. Where the whole, from being
+bred up in ignorance and constant toil, are very much upon a parallel
+with oxen taken from the plough, you will imagine what the most stupid
+of them must be, who form that select body termed the “awkward squad.”
+Upon beholding them, when they first assemble, it might seem nearly as
+practicable to train a party of mules to carry arms.
+
+The colonel, zealous for their improvement, and desirous to make
+soldiers of them as speedily as possible, is indefatigable in his
+attentions towards them; and their drills are so frequent as to keep
+them in almost perpetual motion.
+
+Frequently the “awkward squad” is led to drill, with a proportion of
+non-commissioned officers nearly equal in number to the privates, each
+giving the word of command in the most authoritative manner, holding a
+short pipe in his mouth, scarcely extending to the point of his nose;
+and each busily marching his party to the right and left, backward and
+forward, and in every variety of direction, pushing, pulling, and
+cuffing them about, as if they were machines, totally devoid of
+sensibility.
+
+Even the Indians, whose gravity seldom allows a smile to appear, have
+been diverted at the drilling of the black “awkward squad.” A party,
+from the woods, came in one day, at the time the regiment was under
+arms, and forgetting their usual reserve, expressed symptoms of
+amazement on seeing a body of negroes drawn up in a line, with firelocks
+in their hands, and clothed in uniform; but their attention was soon
+diverted from the great body of the battalion, by observing the _awkward
+squad_, whose blundering evolutions seemed to afford them more amusement
+than any other occurrence we had witnessed. Indeed it was the first time
+we had been able to mark the expression of surprise or curiosity upon
+the Indian countenance. The bucks pointed with their arrows to the
+unseemly group, making remarks to the buckeen, who, like the men, were
+so roused from their indifference as to smile, and seem diverted.
+
+It happened lately that two of the British soldiers who were employed at
+the hospital, having been guilty of irregular conduct, were ordered into
+confinement; and, from its being near, they were taken to the guard-room
+of the rangers, where, upon recovering their sober senses, they felt
+extremely shocked at their degraded situation, being prisoners under the
+bayonets of negroes, whom they had perhaps buffeted as slaves, or mere
+beasts of burden; and were quite indignant on recollecting that the very
+men who were now put over them, even since their arrival in the colony,
+had toiled all day in the field, goaded as horses or oxen. The
+reflection may perhaps serve as an useful lesson to them, and teach them
+to avoid similar disgrace in future; but I wish that no unpleasant
+jealousies may arise among the different corps of soldiery. Possibly a
+strict discipline, and the good conduct of the officers, may divert any
+invidious feelings that may be excited, into a generous and laudable
+spirit of emulation, and make the varieties of colour and country
+subservient to useful and honorable purposes: but it will require no
+inconsiderable address to preserve a perfect harmony among blacks and
+whites, Dutch, English, and Africans! Still the discordance, alluded to,
+is not all that is to be apprehended from training the slaves to arms.
+It is a measure which unquestionably provides a strong defence for the
+present exigency; but it admits of a question whether it may not be
+employing a temporary convenience to establish what may hereafter become
+an extensive evil. May it not teach the slaves a fact which will not
+readily be forgotten: may they not learn that they are not only the most
+numerous, but, also, the strongest party: in short, may it not instruct
+them that they are men; and that a single step might ensure to them the
+rights of their common nature? Compared to slavery the restrictions of
+military discipline are as exquisite freedom; and the negro who has once
+tasted it cannot be expected to return quietly to the yoke, and again
+expose his back to the whip.
+
+Should the slaves once feel sensible of their power, the effect of this
+assurance will not be retarded by any religious or moral consideration.
+As my pen is led to this remark, it may not be inappropriate to follow
+it by a word upon the total neglect of sacred ordinances which prevails
+in these colonies. Knowing that the established religion of the Dutch is
+Calvinism, you will be much surprised to learn that all the ceremonies
+of the Sabbath are utterly disregarded. No church or temple is to be
+found in the settlements; nor have the inhabitants even appropriated any
+house, or other building, for the performance of divine service.
+Neglecting their own duties to the Deity, they have used no means to
+inculcate a sense of religious awe, or of moral conviction, among the
+slaves, but have confided the government of these degraded beings solely
+to terror, and the whip. Sunday, it is true, has been set apart as a day
+of rest, but no solemn ceremony marks it as the Sabbath. Idleness and
+merriment alone distinguish it from the other days of the week. It is a
+holyday to the negroes, but no part of it is devoted to their moral or
+religious improvement: not one hour is appropriated to instruct them, in
+the duties we all owe to the Creator; or to teach them the principles
+which ought to govern the conduct of man towards man.
+
+Since our arrival a laudable attempt has been made to remedy this
+unchristian-like neglect, but such is the force of habit that, hitherto,
+the prospect of success cannot be considered as very auspicious. A place
+has been appointed for the performance of the duties of the Sabbath,
+and, due notice being given, the military chaplain attended to enter
+upon the service; the governor likewise made his appearance; but after
+waiting for a considerable time, and finding that no further
+congregation assembled, they walked quietly home, postponing both
+prayers and sermon to a future occasion.
+
+The diminution of sickness affording sufficient room for their
+accommodation, the sick soldiers of the Dutch corps in our service, and
+those also of the South American Rangers are now received as patients
+into the hospital, together with our own troops. This arrangement will
+afford us an opportunity of witnessing more precisely the effect of
+disease, not simply upon the subjects of different countries, but upon
+those who are recently arrived from a colder climate; those who from the
+residence of a few years are become in a certain degree acclimated; and
+those to whom the heat of this latitude is altogether congenial.
+
+With each change of season our desperate foe seems to fight under an
+altered face, or, chameleon-like, to assume a new skin. Very seldom do
+we now see the fever attended with that remarkable yellowness by which
+it was so commonly distinguished in the months of August and September.
+During the late dry season it lost the continued, and took on a
+remitting or intermitting form, and the latter type still continues to
+be very frequent; but among the recent cases, we have more now that are
+rapidly fatal than we had in the finer season of October and the
+beginning of November: yet even these rarely exhibit that yellowness of
+surface, which has been held so peculiarly characteristic of this
+destructive malady.
+
+Many of the sick now fall into a state of coma, and without betraying
+any other striking mark of illness—without uttering a complaint or a
+groan, sink very rapidly into the arms of death. The countenance becomes
+pale; the skin assumes a clay or lead coloured hue; a stupor supervenes;
+the patient lies in a state of tranquil insensibility; and, without
+yellowness, or the other common marks of the fever, in the course of
+only a few days he sleeps to wake no more! Sometimes a few hours
+complete the course of the disease, as in a late instance, where almost
+the only symptom was a profound coma, and the soldier died within the
+short space of twelve hours. If this were a solitary case I am aware how
+soon scepticism would convert it into a different disease; but without
+disputing for a name, I need only remark that it is far from a rare
+instance, for, alas! we have too many examples in proof of its being a
+very common mode in which the fever attacks. In others of the cases
+which prove fatal, we find hiccough the predominant, and most
+distressing symptom: it continues in opposition to every remedy, and, in
+a few days, the patient is exhausted, and dies!
+
+Neither public nor extensive libraries were to be expected in these
+colonies; but if I had much time for reading, I might sadly lament this
+deficiency. After examining with great care and attention all the late
+authors that I could collect, I think myself fortunate in meeting with
+the publication of Père Labat, a Jesuit, who, so long since as in the
+year 1701, wrote a tour through the West India islands, in which he
+describes very correctly the epidemic fever of these regions, and gives
+an accurate account of his own sufferings under the disease; in the
+treatment of which he was twice blooded, venæsection being, at that
+time, used as a sovereign remedy.
+
+Amidst our changes of season, I should be highly gratified if I could
+report favorably of the improvement in our surgical wards; but of wounds
+and ulcers I have still only gloomy tidings to offer: and it is
+remarkable that the distress occasioned by these is wholly confined to
+the Europeans; for, while the soldiers from England continue to suffer
+dreadfully from their sores, the wounds of the Africans, who are lying
+in the adjoining beds of the same wards, heal with surprising rapidity,
+and are completely cured. Indeed the recovery from sores and ulcers in
+this climate is as peculiarly successful among the blacks, as it is the
+reverse among the Europeans; the examples in proof of which are
+abundant: but not to tire you with tedious histories of cases, I need
+only mention one, which has been recently related to me by a most
+respectable medical practitioner now in Demarara[1]; and by whom the
+treatment of the case was conducted. A negro, being detected in the act
+of robbing a plantain-walk, was taken into confinement by the watchmen,
+who, in the struggle to secure him, wounded him very desperately upon
+the head, neck, and shoulders with a cutlass: which, at one of the
+blows, passed through the bones of the scull and the membranes, into the
+substance of the brain. In the course of the cure, it happened that the
+dressings one day fell from this part, and, the flies gaining access to
+the sore, maggots were bred in great numbers within the brain. These
+were removed by the professional attendant, who, in picking them out,
+was employed for a considerable time, at each of three successive
+dressings: still the negro rapidly recovered, and is now alive and well.
+
+I have lately been much diverted with hearing the detail of an intended
+publication, for which the writer assures me he is busily collecting
+materials. It is to be entitled the “History of Guiana,” and is to be
+composed by a person who has neither the advantage of education, nor of
+talents. You will judge of the merits of the work, when you learn that
+it is in the author’s plan to describe _minutely_ the sources, and the
+junction of the rivers Oronoko and Amazons, without having travelled
+twenty miles from the sea-coast; and to give a full and _accurate_
+account of different races of people, not one of whom he has ever seen.
+
+A fact has recently occurred to my knowledge, displaying a custom which
+I am sure you will regard with astonishment. It is usual, in these
+colonies, for a person to take a negro, or more frequently a mulatto, or
+_mestee_ woman as housekeeper and companion; and, if he have children by
+her, and cannot afford, or does not choose to be at the expense of
+sending them to Europe to be educated, he derives no dishonor from
+breeding up the sons as mechanics, and giving out the daughters, in
+keeping, to his friends; and so commonly is this practice established,
+that no feelings of remorse seem to attach to it: on the contrary, it is
+deemed the best provision the parent can make for his daughter, to place
+her with a respectable man as his _bonne amie_; but it is necessary to
+understand that these are never whites, nor children born in wedlock:
+they are daughters of women of colour, who, like themselves, have felt
+honored in being chosen the companions of their lords; and who do not
+aspire to the dignified character of wife. Neither father nor daughter
+feels any sense of shame, in yielding to this general usage of the
+country; _her_ ambition soars no higher, for she is bred up with no
+other expectation; and the indelible disgrace which would attach to
+marrying a woman of colour leaves the parent no hope of providing for
+his daughter, by placing her in the more honorable state of wedlock.
+Still the practice is so utterly repugnant to European sentiments, that
+it must require a long residence in this country to reconcile it to the
+father; for, whatever may be the distinction between wife and mistress,
+it cannot be supposed that the feelings of nature in the breast of the
+parent can be thereby diminished. The child is equally his offspring,
+and, from being less protected by the laws, is, even in a greater
+degree, the object of his care: it must therefore occasion him many
+severe pangs to submit to this insecure and perilous disposal of his
+daughter. If the protector die or leave the country, the protegée
+returns to her father, until another suitor offer her his home.
+
+You will be surprised to know that, until very lately, I have not had an
+opportunity of purchasing a horse, but you would be much more surprised
+could you see what a miserable animal I have, at length, procured for
+the sum of nearly forty guineas. Horses are very scarce, and of high
+value upon this coast. No more are kept than are required for absolute
+use, and a spare one is rarely to be met with. They are mostly imported
+from North America, and, like ourselves, they are subject to a seasoning
+disease, which equally cuts off man and horse.
+
+We are again looking forward to dry and fine weather, for
+notwithstanding the present wet season has only been set in a month, it
+is supposed, from the circumstance of most of the rain now falling in
+the night, that it may be already declining. I forget whether I before
+remarked to you, that we have not even in what is termed the rainy
+season, any thick and foggy days like those of an English November. The
+wet season is a rapid alternation of dark cloud, with a clear
+atmosphere, and bright sunshine. No misty damps succeed the rushing
+torrents: the black cloud, from which they fall, pours forth its
+streams, exhausts itself, and passes away, leaving the rays of the sun
+again free to reach the earth; and all is light and fair between the
+heavy peltings of the storm.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XVII.
+
+
+                                                          December 26th.
+
+In tracing the date of this letter, I am reminded of the freezing season
+under which you are shivering in England; while the thermometer is here,
+at noon, about 83; and, from using only moderate exercise, I am so
+bestreamed with perspiration as to make it necessary to change my
+clothes four or five times in the course of the day: even at this
+moment, from only the slight exertion of writing, the drops fall so
+rapidly from the backs of my hands, as to spoil my paper, and render my
+letter almost illegible.
+
+On the subject of Christmas, I should tell you that it is not less a
+period of festivity, here, than in England. The planters make parties,
+and the merry feasting of the season goes round, unchilled with its
+frosty coldness. It is likewise a holyday to the slaves, who usually
+receive some indulgence of food, and some present of clothing to augment
+the happiness of the festival. We have seen new hats distributed among
+the men of a whole gang, and a bit of coarse canvass for a petticoat
+given to each of the women; and never were children more delighted with
+toys, than these poor beings were on the joyous occasion of receiving
+these humble, but to them splendid offerings. Some fresh meat was also
+served out to them as a high feast for dinner, and in the evening, their
+loved African dance crowned the holyday. Parties of them go from the
+different plantations to spend the mirthful hours with their more
+particular friends or acquaintances of the neighbouring estates, and it
+is a happy meeting of relatives, lovers, and fellow-passengers, who made
+the voyage together from their native land. The whole country exhibits
+one moving scene of dancing gaiety. Cheerful crowds are met in every
+quarter, dressed out in all the gaudy trappings they can collect, with
+their hair cut, and fashioned into multitudes of whimsical shapes,
+representing various figures of helmets, wigs, crowns and the like; and
+decorated with a profusion of beads, bits of riband, and other tinsel
+ornaments.
+
+I must not neglect to tell you that Christmas is here the high season
+for oranges. They are now ripe, and in their greatest perfection. You
+will be surprised to hear what quantities I am in the daily habit of
+consuming. From six to twelve, pulled fresh from the tree, make my usual
+allowance before breakfast, and commonly I take as many in the evening,
+besides eating great numbers in the course of the day. Indeed fruit and
+vegetables form almost the whole of my diet, and I now suffer no
+distress on account of our scanty supply of animal provisions. As was
+predicted to me, I am become so fond of plantains as scarcely to require
+any other food, and I am persuaded that if they could be had in all
+climates, they would be found, without exception, the most valuable
+production of the earth. Roasted, they serve as bread; fried, they are
+as meat and as fruit; boiled, they are a substitute for potatoes, and
+beat into a paste, they form excellent pudding.
+
+A very distressing case has been related to us within these few days,
+exposing the sad hardships, and the shameful abuse of power to which the
+people of colour are sometimes subjected. A young man, a mulatto, under
+the agitation of extreme distress, presented himself before the officers
+at Mahaica, complaining of the cruel severities which he had experienced
+from a Dutchman, holding an office of high trust in the colony of
+Essequibo. Having been called upon business to Barbadoes, he had left a
+sister at home, to whom he was affectionately attached; and during his
+absence, this arbitrary magistrate took an opportunity of seducing her.
+From the poor man not letting the subject pass so tacitly as the
+Dutchman might have wished, on his return, a feigned cause of complaint
+was preferred against him, and he was thrown into prison, where he has
+been lying ever since, under the sufferings dictated by this man of
+command. He at length effected his escape, and is now in concealment.
+His application to the principal officer at Mahaica, was to implore him
+to interest the commandant of the colonies in his behalf; remarking that
+if he should not succeed in obtaining some powerful intercession, his
+life must inevitably be sacrificed; for whenever he should be
+discovered, a prison would again be his lot, and he would be exposed to
+cruelties, or left to languish under privations that would soon destroy
+him.
+
+On my way lately from Stabroek to Mahaica I slept at the house of a
+gentleman who detailed a very striking case of intermittent fever, under
+which he had laboured for three quarters of a year, and which, during
+the whole of that time, had regularly returned at the periods of the
+spring-tides. He commonly felt unwell on the third day previous to the
+full, and the new moon; and the fever was at the worst on the day of the
+change, after which it decreased, and on the second or third day of the
+decline of the spring-tides he was again well, and felt himself secure
+for the next fortnight. If he had any particular business to transact,
+or any important engagement to plan, he regularly consulted the almanack
+in order so to arrange that they might not interfere with his periods of
+sickness. He remarked that he could at any time interrupt the return of
+the fever, by taking a large quantity of Peruvian bark, but added, that
+he had such an utter aversion to medicine, that rather than have
+recourse to it, he should have supported the disease still longer, if it
+had not begun to prey upon his constitution, by rendering him feeble
+during the periods of intermission.
+
+You know how much promotion in the army is said to alleviate the grief
+arising from the loss of a comrade; but you would be surprised to find
+how lightly men on service can treat the dangers which surround them,
+and how little they regard sickness until it reaches themselves,
+notwithstanding many of them would tremble more to go into an hospital
+than to face the enemy’s cannon. It commonly happens, that a few days
+after the funeral, the clothes and baggage of a deceased officer are
+disposed of by auction, when, frequently, the jokes and witticisms,
+which pass among the purchasers, betray the slight impression made by
+the loss that occasioned the sale. For instance, on a pair of boots
+being held up for a bidding, one officer said to another. “You had
+better buy these boots, they will just suit you.”—“No,” replied the
+other, looking down to his comrade’s legs, “it is your turn next, and
+yours will fit me better: I shall have them in a few days.” So it
+happened, and true enough, the boots then on the legs of his friend,
+soon, alas! too soon, were his!
+
+You will believe that after such a conversation, he could have no
+satisfaction in wearing them: nor was such the object of his making the
+purchase. He was actuated by a more amiable motive: the boots are
+carefully preserved in memory of his comrade, and of one of their latest
+meetings.
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XVIII.
+
+
+                                                          Demarara, Dec.
+
+I have lately had an opportunity of repeating my visit to the eccentric
+Bercheych. Having slept on my way at Mr. Graham’s, I rode from thence in
+the morning to take my breakfast tête-à-tête, with this solitary yet
+social and intelligent recluse. Although unexpected, he instantly
+addressed me by name, and received me in the most friendly manner,
+telling me that he was mindful of his promise, and that some Indians
+were at work upon the model of a house and furniture, which he had
+offered to procure for me.
+
+A most ample breakfast was quickly set before us, served with great
+neatness and order. I was delighted, as formerly, with his conversation
+and remarks, and was particularly gratified with the account he gave me
+of that singular animal the great Ant-eater, which he had had frequent
+opportunities of seeing both dead and alive, his people having shot
+several of the species. The weight of this peculiar quadruped is
+commonly from 150 lb. to 200 lb. He has a very small head, covered with
+hair as soft as velvet; his tail is immensely large and flat, and beset
+with long hair, which is stiffer than the bristles of a hog. His feet
+are armed with long claws, forming very strong offensive weapons, By
+means of his claws, and his tail, he is able to defend himself against
+even the tiger; and in some instances he has been known to conquer that
+fierce and powerful animal. When attacked, he fights with his claws,
+protecting his head by wrapping it up in his broad tail of bristles,
+which the tiger cannot penetrate. He has a tongue of uncommon length,
+which is moistened with saliva of a saccharine flavour. As the name
+implies, ants are his food, and his mode of procuring it is by thrusting
+his deceitful tongue into a nest of these insects, when, allured by the
+taste of the saliva, they settle upon it in great numbers, and the
+animal, by drawing it in, swallows up whole hosts of them at once. The
+high relish, no doubt, excites an increased secretion, and with his
+tongue again sweetly baited, he entraps new victims, repeating the
+slaughter until his appetite is satiated with the myriads of slain.
+
+Walking lately with one of the gentlemen of the hospital department,
+down to the bottom of a coffee estate, which leads into the woods, our
+attention was arrested by the singular appearance of multitudes of the
+trees at the entrance of the forest; many of which had pensile bodies,
+like common cabbage-nets, stuffed with straw, hanging from the
+extremities of their lofty branches; and others, huge black masses,
+conveying the idea of large animals, adhering to their trunks. Upon
+approaching nearer to them we discovered that the former were the nests
+of birds; the latter, of ants!
+
+The bird-nests were the fabrication of a species here termed the
+mocking-bird, but unlike that of imitative note so named in the Northern
+States of this continent. Both the construction and situation of these
+nests are peculiarly ingenious. They are not built upon, nor within any
+part of the tree, but are fastened to the outermost twigs of the
+remotest branches, as if tied to them with strings; and it is extremely
+difficult to imagine how, in this pensile form, the building of them can
+be effected; for it might seem, from the manner in which they are
+suspended, that they must have been first constructed, then carried up
+whole, and hung upon the twigs which support them. They are deep and
+cylindrical like long nets or purses, from which figure, together with
+the ready flexibility of the tender branches which bear them, they are
+in no danger of being overturned by the breeze, nor of having their
+eggs, or young, tossed out by sudden gusts of wind. The appearance of
+them, as they hang waving in the air, is very remarkable: some of the
+trees are so thickly covered with them that, at a short distance, it is
+difficult to distinguish which are most numerous, these nests or the
+leaves. The situation of them is admirably chosen for the purpose of
+protection against the various species of monkies, which infest the
+woods; none of these marauders being able to support themselves upon the
+slender twigs from which the nests are suspended. Buffon would tell us
+that an unerring instinct had taught these birds thus to shelter their
+eggs, and their young: Darwin would attribute it to reason and
+experience. But the fact of the younger birds selecting the same
+situation, and constructing their nests, even the first season, with as
+great dexterity as their parents, seems to offer an insurmountable
+objection to the opinion which refers it to a reasoning faculty. Nothing
+of progressive advancement is displayed, all is perfection from the
+beginning, and experience begets no superiority; for it is not seen that
+either age or repetition affords the usual advantages of improved
+intellect—the youngest bird being equally ingenious, and equally perfect
+in his architecture as the oldest.
+
+The ant-nests are immense masses of black earth, built upon the trunks
+of the trees; many of them so high, and of such extraordinary bulk, as
+to render it matter of surprise, how even the combined industry of these
+minute insects could have carried up, and worked together such
+prodigious accumulations. One of the nests very much resembled a large
+black bear clinging round the tree; nor was it till we came near enough
+to examine it closely that we could believe it to be the masonry—the
+dwelling-house and castle of these diminutive artists.
+
+I thrust the end of my cane into several of the nests, breaking through
+the outer walls of the mansions; when instantly hosts of ants issued
+forth from the openings. Upon breaking-down a part of one of these
+buildings to examine it more particularly, I found that although the
+exterior surface was smooth and uniform, the interior was formed into
+cells somewhat of a regular figure, and very much resembling the
+honey-comb of bees.
+
+We find that these nests are converted to an useful purpose, being given
+as food to little chickens. Frequently the trees, upon which they are
+built, are cut down for the sole purpose of obtaining them. The mode of
+using them is by breaking off a portion of the cellular earth, from the
+great mass, and sticking it upon a pole, or otherwise placing it over
+the lattice-work of the pen in which the hen and her brood are confined,
+in order that the young ants may fall out of their cells to the ground;
+where they are instantly devoured by the chickens.
+
+On the day after my breakfast visit at the cottage, hermit Bercheych, as
+he is often called, came, in great state, to dine with us at the
+barracks. He was paddled down the creek in his large canoe, by six fine
+slaves, and it was pleasing to observe what profound attention and
+respect were borne this old gentleman by his negroes, who comported
+themselves with a degree of regularity and decorum worthy the best
+ordered domestics of Europe.
+
+Our party was small, and we sat down to dinner in the presence of a
+group of naked Indians, who that day made us a visit from the woods. It
+was not in our power, even with our best assiduities, to make a
+sufficient return for the many marks of hospitality we had met with at
+the hermitage, but our guest expressed himself happy, and was lively and
+entertaining as ever. The few hours we had of his society passed very
+pleasantly, and we regretted extremely that the tide, and the approach
+of evening took him from us early after dinner.
+
+Absorbed with the civilities due to the accomplished and methodical
+Bercheych, we were less regardful of our strangers from the woods than
+usual; but we have lately been visited by another party of the bucks, to
+whom we earnestly devoted our attentions, during the short time they
+remained among us. We made it a settled experiment to endeavour to rouse
+them from that fixed apathy and indifference which forms so striking a
+feature of their character. By signs we attempted to lead them into a
+sort of conversation. We gave them rum to drink; brought out bows and
+arrows to shoot with; played the German flute to them; beat the drum,
+and piped the fife—but all in vain! Nothing of mirth or vivacity was
+excited. Rum possessed the only charm: of this both the men and women
+drank glass after glass as quickly as it was given them.
+
+Cynics have said that the gift of speech is a blessing seldom denied to
+the ladies; but we remarked that these naked wood-nymphs were peculiarly
+taciturn. They seemed even more tranquil and incurious than the men.
+They sat two upon a chair, the whole time, with their backs towards us,
+and were not inspired, by any thing that occurred, to move a single
+feature or a muscle; nor were the men much more animated: one of them,
+who appeared to be very old, had in his hand a piece of a large and
+coarse reed, nearly two feet long, with two or three holes cut in it,
+like a flute. With this we did prevail upon him to blow a few harsh and
+simple notes; and these he seemed to consider very superior to all the
+varied sounds of the German flute, which was played to him by one of the
+officers; for, he refused to accept the flute in exchange for his reed.
+After trying various other means to rouse them, we caused the drum and
+fife to be played, unexpectedly, below the window, where they were
+sitting. This seemed to strike the ear, and they for a moment appeared
+to listen, but nothing of impulse was betrayed—nothing of vivacity
+overspread their features: nor did an individual of them so far forget
+his gravity as to rise from his seat to look out at the window.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XIX.
+
+
+                                            La Bourgade, Jan. 8th, 1797.
+
+You will comprehend the sentiment which associates your image with the
+sadness of the present hour. It is one of those periods when the
+sickened mind turns from all common objects, and clings to the
+remembrance of those we hold most dear. Having just returned from the
+funeral of one of my comrades, who died in the adjoining chamber this
+morning, and whose remains I have this evening followed to the grave, I
+find that the heavy depression of my spirits admits of no relief from
+the immediate circumstances around me: I take up my pen, therefore, to
+seek alleviation in an appeal to the bosom of friendship and of
+sympathy. I had before experienced the impressive solemnity of a
+military funeral, but the awful gloom, connecting with the procession,
+had not weighed upon me with all the affliction of the present moment.
+Of six gentlemen who accompanied me from Barbadoes, as assistants in the
+hospital department, three had died, one was sent to England with
+invalids, and the other two had, for some time past, resided in the same
+house with myself. Early this morning I was called from my bed to visit
+one of these, who had been a very short time ill, and was taken worse in
+the night. You will believe that I lost not a moment in putting on my
+clothes, and hastening to his room; but, on reaching his bed-side, I
+found him a corpse! The case of this young man shows the very perilous
+situation of Europeans in this climate, and proves with how much truth
+it may be said that to-day we are well, to-morrow in fever, and—next day
+in the grave! Nor do health and vigour give any security; for he who
+to-day boasts the greatest strength, to-morrow, perhaps, is stretched in
+his coffin.
+
+Most of the officers of the garrison attended the funeral, and, when
+following the corpse in slow and doleful procession, with the band
+playing the dead march, and the minute-drum beating in hollow sound, the
+agonized feelings of the occasion became still more poignant from the
+conviction that, perhaps, before another day had passed, others of us
+might be extended at the side of the comrade, whose loss we now
+deplored.
+
+I have before remarked to you, that from the strong tendency of such
+awful ceremonies to spread dispiriting apprehensions among the living,
+it is desirable that the parade of military funerals should be dispensed
+with, in a climate where the troops may, at all moments, be under
+feelings of alarm from the peril of disease; yet may it be a question,
+with some, how far it would be politic to deprive the soldier of this
+last and honorable mark of distinction; the sentiment attaching to which
+is, no doubt, one among the many causes which lead to noble and heroic
+conduct.
+
+Among the soldiers of our own battalions, its disuse has been found both
+wise and necessary; for if it were to be employed on all occasions, in
+this climate, it might call those in health too often to the performance
+of a distressful duty, and become a painfully frequent memento to the
+sick; the effect of which, added to the common apprehension with respect
+to disease, might produce a degree of depression, which no means could
+remedy. Still among the Dutch troops the practice is continued; for it
+were easier, perhaps, to overturn the Alps, than to do away the
+prejudices of the Hollanders. Questions of expediency yield to questions
+of usage, and it must be proved to be a glaring injury, indeed, to the
+living, before a Dutchman could consent to forego an established
+observance to the dead.
+
+It is remarkable, that among the papers of our deceased comrade, we find
+an unfinished letter, begun only a day or two ago, to his father, in
+which he speaks of being uncommonly well, and gratefully offers thanks
+to the Deity for the blessing of such excellent health.
+
+Soon after he expired, a man called who had some business with him, and
+on being told that he was dead, would not leave the house, but insisted
+that we were deceiving him, saying that he had seen him in the town
+_perfectly well_ “only a day or two before!”
+
+It is a long while since we received news from your side the Atlantic;
+but a single paper is now brought to us by the captain of a ship from
+Glasgow, and you will not be surprised to learn that it is worn to
+shreds, by passing through the hands of the whole garrison.
+
+After being for some weeks without fresh animal provisions, it has
+happened that the hospital has been supplied with them several times
+within the last few days: but, unhappily, their action upon the bowels
+of the sick, has more than counteracted the benefit which they might
+have derived from them. Aware that this was not an unfrequent
+occurrence, we had endeavoured to guard against it by issuing the fresh
+meat only in small portions at a meal, yet, from their stomachs having
+been so long unaccustomed to it, and from the debilitated state of the
+patients, the laxative effect was very considerable, nearly the whole of
+the convalescents having been attacked with a troublesome diarrhœa.
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER XX.
+
+
+                                                      Demarara, Jan. 21.
+
+We have again had abundant occasion to remark the fact regarding the
+coincidence between the returns of fever in this climate, and the
+periods of the spring-tides. Only a few days ago, at the time of full
+moon, Mr. Beete (the commissary), Mr. Mulheran (one of our assistants in
+the medical department), and six of the convalescents in the hospital,
+were attacked with a relapse of fever, or what is here called “the
+tides.” Three were cases of continued fever; five of intermittent: but
+it is not in the paroxysms of intermittent, and the relapses of fever,
+only that the disease appears to be influenced by the recurrence of the
+spring-tides; for we now find that the primary invasion of the disorder
+is more frequent, and the number of fever-patients admitted into the
+hospital greater, at these periods, than at any other time.
+
+The case of Mr. Beete is peculiar; and places the fact in a very
+striking light. He has been long resident in the West Indies, and from
+having withstood all the late perils of disease at Grenada, might be
+regarded as, in a great degree, secure against that particular form of
+the fever which is so fatal to newly arrived Europeans: but very soon
+after he came from the islands to Demarara, he was attacked with it, in
+the form which it more commonly assumes among the creoles, and those who
+have been long on this shore of the Atlantic, viz. as an intermittent,
+yet not returning as a quotidian, a tertian, or a quartan, but as a
+quindecimana, and so regularly observing its type that, if referred to
+its place in a system of nosology, it might justly be ranked among the
+species of intermittent fever, under the title of quindecimana. It has
+continued ever since, returning at intervals of a fortnight, with the
+exacerbations correctly obeying the periods of new and full moon, but he
+has always the power of interrupting it, and averting the paroxysm by a
+copious use of the bark for only a day or two previous to the time of
+spring-tide, and his friends very earnestly hope that he will soon, so
+far subdue his aversion to the taking of medicine, as to employ it in
+sufficient quantity to eradicate the disease. In the four other cases of
+intermittent, the fever assumes the ordinary quotidian, or the tertian
+type. In the cases wherein the disorder appears in its continued form,
+the relapses are, frequently, not less severe than the original attack.
+
+The 18th instant being the Queen’s birth-day, it was honored in public
+and private rejoicing, and as our days of festival are few, you will
+believe that justice was done to the occasion. In the morning we had a
+general review of the troops; afterwards a large party dined, and drank
+her Majesty’s health with the commandant: and, in the evening, the
+officers gave a splendid ball at the fort.
+
+The review afforded great satisfaction to the inhabitants, by placing
+before them a fine body of troops, armed in the defence of the colony.
+They were of different nations, different colours, and in different
+uniform; yet from the excellent discipline instilled among them by the
+unwearied attentions of the commandant and the officers, their
+appearance in the field was highly military, and their manœuvres
+executed with order and correctness. The line, if not formidable, was
+very respectable. On the right were the British troops, and the corps of
+Demarara volunteers, in scarlet uniform: on the left were the Dutch, in
+blue: in the centre the fine battalion of South American rangers, in
+white: and, on each wing a party of the royal artillery.
+
+At the dinner, the board was enriched with all the dainties of the
+country, and the appetite provoked by choice wines and cheering music.
+The governor, the fiscal, most of the officers, and many of the
+principal inhabitants of the colony, were present. A military band
+enlivened the banquet, and merry toasts and songs caused the bumper
+glass to move in quick time. I left the table early, in order to make my
+round of duty at the hospital, and joined the party again at the ball,
+where, in a group of about seventy persons, we met all the beauty and
+fashion of the colony. In the whole party, the number of ladies did not
+exceed sixteen, so that many of the gentlemen, at an early period of the
+evening, had to lament the deficiency; yet such was the prowess of the
+fair, that, before the dancing ceased, each had fatigued her third
+companion; and it fell to their lot to complain of the want of partners.
+The exercise used by the ladies was truly astonishing, and far surpassed
+all that I could have believed them capable of supporting; but, call it
+pleasure, and the body is strong. If such excess had been recommended,
+as necessary for any other purpose, it would no doubt have been regarded
+as dangerous and destructive. Some of them, with only the interval of
+supper-time, danced from nine o’clock until daylight, in a room where
+the heat, probably, exceeded 90 degrees.
+
+At supper, few as the ladies were, it happened to be my fortune to be
+placed between two of them: of one, only, I have now to speak; but let
+me first remark that the colony was ransacked to supply the table; which
+was most sumptuously and profusely spread. On my noticing the uncommon
+crowd of dishes, an officer dryly replied, “Perhaps you are not aware
+that the party to be entertained is Dutch.” I thought it fully
+sufficient for five such parties, whether Dutch, English, or French; but
+if all had eaten like the fair one in question, I must have been
+egregiously deceived.
+
+The lady at my right elbow, was very large, and of true Dutch figure.
+Her person may be well described in two words—broad and bulky! By some
+accident she had sprained her wrist, and this formed a ready apology for
+appealing to my particular attention, which, from not being in the habit
+of eating supper, I could the better devote to her service: but I almost
+fear to note the fact I have to relate, lest you should imagine that I
+assume a traveller’s privilege, and indulge in the marvellous at the
+expense of a fair associate guest. Let me therefore premise, that in
+what follows, the boundaries of sober truth are not outstepped a single
+iota; for I not only helped the lady to her meats, and poured forth her
+wines, but was further called upon to cut her food, into small pieces,
+ready for the fork, by which I had the opportunity of observing,
+literally, _every mouthful_.
+
+Scarcely had we taken our seats, before my fair neighbour requested me
+to help her to a glass of claret, of which I found a _full_ bottle
+standing between us. The ceremony of a gentleman drinking, at the same
+time, was not deemed essential; consequently I tasted but very lightly:
+yet it somehow happened, and without the bottle being once removed,
+that, before the supper was at an end, the gentle lady was compelled to
+have recourse to a glassful or two of sound Madeira, to supply the
+deficiencies of our _empty_ bottle! With this, her eating was in no
+degree at variance, for she commenced by forming a solid stratum of two
+heavy slices of fat ham, after which I helped her from no less than
+_fourteen_ other dishes, of each of which, to my surprise, she partook
+with appetite! Such a supper I had not before seen swallowed by man or
+woman! Although satiated, not satisfied, she afterwards desired me to
+reach towards her several of the dishes of fruit, from each of which,
+after liberally tasting, she _privately_ gave a portion to a female
+slave, who was standing at her back; and when she rose to leave the
+supper-room, I observed _under her chair_ a loaded plate of fruits and
+sweets, which, without doubt, the negress had received instructions to
+carry home, for the purpose of regaling her mistress on the morrow.
+This, by the by, is a custom, which I have more than once seen practised
+by foreign ladies, both Dutch and French!
+
+But what will surprise you most is, to know that after this _light
+supper_, the lady _briskly_ resumed the merry dance! and, when I
+retired, at five o’clock in the morning, she remained tripping it away
+as gaily as if it had been only the commencement of the evening.
+
+It affords me real pleasure to be able to remark that we have entered
+the more cordially into the late festivity on account of the improved
+state of our sick list, and from the happy circumstance of the last
+weekly return of the hospital not containing even a single casualty.
+This is a subject of great and peculiar satisfaction to the medical
+officers; it being the first week, since our arrival in these colonies,
+that we have had the opportunity of making out a weekly return, without
+marking some one in the fatal column. But the healthy season is now
+setting in, and we are taught to expect nearly four months of dry
+weather, with a salubrious breeze, which is to waft away all our
+maladies. I have been too much in the habit of busy employment to feel
+any desire to sit down in idleness; yet, upon such terms, I could be
+very happy to continue without professional duty.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XXI.
+
+
+                                                Demarara, Feb. 11, 1797.
+
+A considerable time has now passed since our arrival upon this coast,
+and, having remained so long without any interruption, we had almost
+believed that the many foes upon our borders meant to leave us in quiet
+possession of the colonies we had taken; but we have, at length, been
+assailed from the quarter, whence we least expected it, having had a
+skirmish with the Spaniards to leeward, instead of the Dutch or French,
+who in more imposing aspect, threatened us from windward. Fixing upon a
+favorable moment when they expected that the garrison might be sunk in
+repose, after the festivities of the Queen’s birth-day, a party of
+Spaniards crossed the river Oronoko in the night of the 19th inst. and
+made an attack upon our out-post at Moroko, the remotest point of the
+colony of Essequibo. To their disappointment our troops were upon the
+alert, and they were observed before they landed. Quickly the whole
+force at the post was under arms, and at stepping on shore the Dons met
+a very lively reception. The firing was returned on the part of the
+Spaniards, who boldly rushed forward, expecting to subdue the garrison,
+but, after the contest had continued a short time, they were defeated,
+and, some being killed, some wounded, and others driven into the river,
+those who were able to make their escape, precipitately took to their
+boats and retreated. Happily not one of our men was killed, but the
+commanding officer and nine of the soldiers were wounded, some of the
+latter, we fear, mortally. This is the first rencontre we have had with
+the enemy since our arrival in Guiana; and, from the result, it is
+probable that the next assault will not be from the quarter of the
+Oronoko.
+
+Very much to their honor, this gallant defence of our out-post was made
+by Captain Rochelle and a party of the Dutch troops, who had surrendered
+on our taking the colonies, and afterwards entered into the service of
+his Majesty. They fought with great bravery, and gave a satisfactory
+proof that they merited the confidence reposed in them, in appointing
+them to the charge of this important station.
+
+Two of the Bucks were despatched from the post, to bring us the news of
+the action, and they, with the zeal and punctuality of more regular
+couriers, reached Stabroek on the 23d, four days after the battle.
+According to my custom, I engaged these men of the woods, each evening
+during their stay, to join in my favorite exercise of shooting with the
+bow and arrow.
+
+I have lately taken frequent opportunities of entering into conversation
+with different negroes, both male and female, endeavouring to ascertain
+what were their sentiments with regard to the subject of freedom and
+slavery; and, when I tell you that I was careful to select those who
+were the most intelligent, you will be surprised at the very limited
+extent of their knowledge. Their utmost ambition does not go beyond the
+procuring of food, with the little clothing they wear, and medicine when
+sick; nor in any other view do they seem to comprehend the advantages of
+freedom: being assured of these, from their masters, whilst they remain
+slaves, they have a terror at the idea of being made free: yet I have
+remarked that some of the women speak in raptures on the topic of
+obtaining their liberty; but, upon further questioning them, I have
+always discovered that it was not from any just sense of independence;
+but from the mere desire of becoming the sultanas of white men, and
+being placed by them above the ordinary slaves of the house.
+
+I give you the following conversation, literally as it passed; from
+which you will be able to form a more correct judgment of the sentiments
+which dictated the replies.
+
+Would you not like to go to England?
+
+No! Backra country no good! In neger country they no flog ’em, and dat
+better dan backra country.
+
+Do you not wish to be free?
+
+O yes! O yes!
+
+And if you were free, where would you live, and what would you do?
+
+Live wid dem dat buy me free.
+
+Well! and would you not go with them to England?
+
+No! me ’fraid for go where ’em all backra. Me love for see neger here
+and dere; me ’fraid for see all backra.
+
+But if those, who bought you free, should go away and leave you?
+
+Den me live wid one backra man, and hab one slave for work for me.
+
+And if this backra man should die?
+
+Den me live wid one other backra man.
+
+This was the utmost extent of all she desired on earth. She would remain
+with any family who might make her free, but if they should leave the
+colony, she would go and live with a white man, and prevail upon him to
+buy her a slave; and if this protector should die, then she would seek
+for another _backra_, and go and live with him; and so on, from one to
+another, as often as they should die, or leave the colony. It was a very
+common reply from many of them to the question, “What would you do if
+you were free?” “Live wid de backra man dat buy me free, wash him linen,
+and keep him clean!”
+
+Among those who condemned freedom was a very fine negro, who was born in
+the colony; and who speaks better English, and is more intelligent than
+nine-tenths of the slaves who have been imported. This man insisted that
+he would not accept his freedom, if it were offered him, but that he
+would prefer to remain a slave. If free, he said, he must work for his
+food whilst he was young, and when he should be old; whereas if he
+remained a slave, his master would give him food for his labour while
+young, and let him eat, in rest, when he grew aged. Also if sick his
+master would let him have provisions, and find him a doctor; but if he
+were free, he could not work for food when old, or sick; nor could he
+have a doctor, because he should be unable to pay him. This country, he
+said, was good for him, he was born in it, and he would not like to go
+into any other. If he should have “_the misfortune_” to be made free, he
+would learn a trade, and work at that to procure him food and clothing.
+
+He had acquired some idea of a future state, and described it as a great
+and general principle among the negroes, to cherish any of their own
+colour who were advanced in years, and were in want, and to feed and
+compassionate them, if they were free, and unable to work; for which he
+observed they should “go to heaven.” He had no doubt of being taken
+thither himself, and told me that he was ready to die that minute if any
+one would kill him, adding, that he would rather die than live! On being
+asked why he did not kill himself, he replied, “_Dat no good, if I sall
+do dat, me go to hell._” Lying, swearing, and drunkenness, he did not
+regard as crimes: suicide, and giving poison to any person were, in his
+estimation, the greatest, and almost the only sins. These he considered
+as certain of preventing any one from being received into heaven, of
+which, his ideas were extremely vague, and unintelligible. Hell he
+described as an immense caldron of liquid fire, into which the wicked
+were to be plunged.
+
+You may, probably, have heard it questioned whether a person can be
+attacked with the yellow fever more than once; I may tell you,
+therefore, amidst my unconnected notes, that to the mortification of
+those who have already suffered it, as well as of others, we know too
+well that it may and does attack the same person, not only a second
+time, but many times[2]. An instance of this I may mention to you,
+together with a genuine blunder produced on the subject, by one of the
+gentlemen of the hospital department, whose home lies a little to the
+west of Holyhead.
+
+The patient was the sergeant-major of the rangers, a man who, from the
+nature of his appointment, was subjected to much duty and fatigue. He
+had twice been a patient at the hospital, in yellow fever, and had both
+times recovered, after being in a state nearly to be despaired of. On
+his returning to us a third time, we were lamenting the severity of his
+sufferings, and the hard trials he had to encounter, when one of the
+hospital-mates exclaimed, “Faith, and it’s no wonder he should be
+attacked so often, for he is constantly exposed to the heat of the sun,
+_night and day_.”
+
+Sometimes, without any feelings of actual disease, the eyes and skin of
+those who, from their employment, continue in the greatest degrees of
+heat, become as yellow as in the worst cases of the yellow fever. This
+happens to bakers, cooks, blacksmiths, and the like. A few days ago, in
+one of my walks, I met a man who had, some time before, been a patient
+in the hospital, and observing that his skin and eyes were of a strong
+yellow colour, I asked him if he felt again ill; when he replied in the
+negative, adding that, on the contrary, he continued so well as to be
+employed _as a baker_, at the commissary’s, and further remarking, that
+he had himself noticed the tinge, which he had been told was owing to
+the heat of his business.
+
+Notwithstanding the severity of disease, among those who are recently
+arrived in the West Indies, we remark that the creoles, or creolised,
+are generally much greater invalids, than those who are but lately from
+Europe. This fact we see particularly exemplified in the corps of South
+American rangers; the officers of which have been appointed, some from
+the regiments newly arrived from England, and the others from among the
+colonists: while the latter are feeble and ailing, and often unfit for
+duty, the former are active and robust, far less complaining, and seldom
+indisposed, except when attacked with violent and dangerous disease. The
+creolised have a degree of languor and lassitude about them, and are
+subject to head-ach, and febrile sensations, which render them inactive,
+and less capable of exertion than the others: they are also very liable
+to fever of a remittent, or intermittent type, which either invades them
+at irregular periods, or returns in severe annual visitation.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XXII.
+
+
+                                                     Demarara, February.
+
+Although it is commonly remarked that gratitude is not a prominent
+virtue among the slaves, I may mention to you an additional fact, in
+proof that they are not destitute of this amiable quality. On the
+morning of January 13th, a well-looking robust negro unexpectedly
+presented himself at my door, tendering his services, and begging that
+he might be allowed to work for me. Upon my going out to speak with him,
+his countenance gladdened with joy, and looking animated and cheerful,
+he said he would “_do ebery ting to ’blige Massa, wait upon Massa, clean
+Massa’s horse, and do all de work Massa tell him_.”
+
+Not immediately recollecting his features, I asked who he was, whence he
+came, and how it happened that he addressed himself to me? when he
+replied, “_Ah Massa, if you no remember Prince, Prince no forget dat
+Massa tell ’em soldiers for break one great iron collar off Prince’s
+neck, and gave him for gnyaam when Massa at Mahaica!_” This brought him
+to my recollection, and I recognised an unhappy slave, whom, in one of
+my walks at Mahaica, I had met wandering in a cotton-field, bearing a
+heavy iron collar upon his neck, with three long spikes projecting from
+it, terminating in sharp points, at the distance of nearly a foot and a
+half from his person; and with his body flogged into deep ulcers, from
+his loins to his hams. In this state, and almost starving with hunger,
+he appealed to my feelings. _Humanity_ pleaded in his behalf, and
+without a very scrupulous inquiry into the whys and wherefores of the
+punishment, its dictates were obeyed. The poor man followed me to the
+fort: the soldiers grew indignant on seeing his naked sores; and the
+impulse of their feelings not being opposed, his neck was quickly freed
+from its load, and the massive yoke and its spikes were as speedily
+converted into pot-hooks for the benefit of the mess. Thus made happy,
+the thankful slave had now found his way to my home at La Bourgade, in
+order to make his further acknowledgments, and to tender me his
+services. Shall it be said that Africans know not the divine sentiment
+of gratitude?
+
+I before mentioned the great difficulty we meet with in obtaining
+labouring mechanics, and you will be surprised to know the very high
+price at which they are paid in these colonies. Inconvenience sometimes
+arises from the scarcity of workmen, and those whom we have among us,
+being sensible that their number is small, and that others cannot be
+procured, demand most exorbitant wages, and commit their extortions
+without any sort of reserve. Only a few days ago the labouring
+carpenters threw down their tools, and refused to work, because a board,
+appointed to regulate the price of wages, refused to allow them _four
+dollars_ per day, instead of three, at which extravagant rate they have
+been paid for some time past.
+
+The weather, upon this coast, is now pleasant, and the roads are
+delightfully good. We are advancing gradually into the dry season.
+Occasional showers still refresh the fields, but our deep and muddy
+roads are become quite smooth and dry, and are at this time, perhaps, as
+fine for travelling as any that can be found upon the face of the globe.
+The kindly breeze is steady and powerful, and the thermometer, at noon,
+seldom exceeds 82; a temperature that we are able to support, without
+feeling those heavy sensations of languor and weariness, which are so
+extremely oppressive in the sultry days of an English summer.
+
+Another very great comfort, not peculiar to this season, but which we
+commonly experience in this climate, is the total freedom from that
+lassitude and yawning, so common in England, at the hour of rising in
+the morning, and which is not only troublesome and unpleasant, but
+frequently causes us to steal another hour from the already too
+shortened day. Here, it is but one thing to awake, and to get up. The
+instant our eyes are open, the slumbers of the night are completely
+gone, and we have no feelings of heaviness or drowsy languor to oppose
+our rising; but in wakeful emotion we at once quit the pillow, and are
+ready to engage in the active pursuits of the day.
+
+The decline of the wet season, although pregnant with manifold
+advantages, has brought us acquainted with a new trouble, in the
+scarcity of water. In consequence of the increased number of persons
+requiring to be supplied, the tanks, or cisterns built for preserving
+the offerings from the clouds, are found very inadequate to the
+consumption. These being emptied very soon after the heavy rains had
+ceased, we have now, for our supply, to depend upon the unwilling toil
+of a party of negroes, who are employed to go many leagues in boats, in
+order to fill the casks from the river at a distance beyond the
+influence of the tides. Owing to the several interruptions necessarily
+arising from this mode of procuring it, our supply of fresh water is
+not, at all times, so regular as might be wished, and there have been
+moments when we could have almost lamented the absence of heavy rains.
+Not only on account of sickness, but from the necessity we are under of
+using a considerable proportion of salted provisions, an ample supply of
+fluid is rendered indispensable at the hospital. Fresh animal food is
+again become a great dainty among us; the sick, therefore, and their
+attendants are often compelled to satisfy themselves with a diet of salt
+meat, and the vegetables of the country.
+
+Letters have lately reached us from Barbadoes, in which is mentioned a
+striking example of the fatal influence of climate upon newly arrived
+Europeans. One of the regiments, which left that island upon the
+expedition to St. Lucie, in the month of April last, is already
+returned, a mere skeleton, consisting of only a small body of invalids;
+and the proportion which fell in battle is said to be very trifling,
+compared with the greater destruction caused by a foe, whose ravages are
+far more direful than those of the sword.
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXIII.
+
+
+                                                Demarara, March 9, 1797.
+
+You will consider it as an additional smile bestowed upon me by fortune,
+when I tell you that I have been invited to another river excursion, and
+again had an opportunity of becoming a traveller in the wild woods, and
+uncultivated regions of this coast.
+
+This journey was, in some of its features, unlike the former. It was
+made with different persons, and fitted out with more regard to comfort;
+but the other was more completely a marooning enterprise, and perhaps
+exhibited, in stronger lineaments, the characters and circumstances
+which presented themselves to our observation.
+
+In our expedition up the river Berbische, we were all strangers,
+trespassing upon the bounty of those we met; and, without any
+acquaintance or introduction, depending upon the hospitality of persons
+wholly unknown to us, for the means of prosecuting our journey: whilst
+in the excursion up the river Demarara all the party, except myself,
+were colonists, who were accustomed to the country, acquainted with
+places and persons, and provided with stores, and other accommodations
+for the occasion.
+
+Our reception by the planters upon the borders of the rivers was, in
+both cases, so liberal, that it might be difficult to mark a
+distinction: perhaps I might say that in the one instance we were
+cordially hailed as expected friends—in the other generously greeted as
+welcome strangers. That it should have fallen to my lot to have gone up
+both the rivers, is matter of singular gratification to me; for they
+were not merely journeys of idle curiosity: a strong interest attached
+to them, both regarding our species, and the face of the globe we
+inhabit; and the impression they have made upon my mind will be
+remembered with pleasure, to the end of my days.
+
+The leading objects were to procure some roots and cuttings of plants
+and trees, principally of the wild fruits of the forest, for the purpose
+of raising them upon the estates of my fellow-travellers near the coast;
+and to explore the river, as far as the falls, which is the utmost
+extent we could reach in a boat.
+
+I was only an appendage—a mere stranger among the group. Every thing was
+planned and provided by my companions, and I was invited to join them,
+only from the very liberal sentiment that it might afford me pleasure.
+The gentlemen, to whom I am indebted for so handsome a compliment, were
+Mr. Mackenzie, Mr. Fraser, Mr. L. Cuming, and Mynheer Heyliger.
+
+We loitered on the way, like well-accommodated travellers, and made it a
+tour of eleven days, having taken our departure from Stabroek, at noon
+on the 25th of February, and returned on the evening of the 7th of
+March. No party, equally numerous, had been known to pass to so great a
+distance from the coast, although individuals had, occasionally,
+journeyed as far as, or even beyond the falls of the river.
+
+We had no means of marking the distance, except by the Dutch method of
+making it synonymous with time: according to which, I might say that
+from Stabroek to the Falls is thirty-six _hours_; or, from the mouth of
+the river, to the part where it ceases to be navigable, nearly
+thirty-six hours and a half. But in this I cannot profess even an
+approach to the correctness of Dutch measurement, which gives, with
+tolerable accuracy, four miles to the hour; for, although we were
+thirty-six hours upon the water, between the town and the falls, I dare
+not venture to calculate the distance at four times thirty-six miles; as
+the hour might be sometimes eight or ten miles, and sometimes not a
+third so many, according as the breeze, the tide, or the current,
+chanced to aid or impede our progress; or, as feelings of strength, or
+fatigue, were indicated on the part of the slaves. If I should fix the
+average at four miles an hour, agreeably to the Dutch calculation, the
+distance, thus given, would still be very incorrect, as we were
+prevented from pursuing the direct course of the river, by our frequent
+calls at the different plantations _en route_.
+
+During the morning, previous to our departure, I felt very unwell, with
+symptoms of fever, which being increased by heat, and the hurry of
+preparation, I was so ill at the time of going into the boat, that
+nothing but the most ardent desire not to forego the excursion could
+have induced me to have ventured from home: I have since felt, more
+sensibly than I did at the moment, how extremely perilous it was to
+embark upon such an undertaking, in this climate, with the sensations I
+then experienced; but, at that instant, nothing short of actual
+confinement could have detained me. Happily the threatening indications
+subsided, and, recovering as we proceeded, I became quite well upon the
+journey.
+
+We made our first call at an estate named “Golden Tent,” belonging to
+Mynheer Meertens, where we were received in a very friendly manner, by
+Mr. Reid, the resident manager, who keeps the house and premises in such
+high order, that the general neatness of the home, together with the
+square grass-plats before the door, and other decorations around the
+building, give it more the air of an European dwelling, than any place I
+had seen in the colonies.
+
+We reached a plantation called Hermitage in time for dinner, and there
+took up our abode for the night, being most liberally welcomed by Mr.
+Selles, who, with great hospitality, devoted the best supply of his
+house and table to our accommodation.
+
+During the next day’s journey we passed several islands, lying in the
+course of the river, but, from being flat and covered with wood, they
+offered nothing more novel or interesting, than the mere break they
+occasioned in the naked view of the stream. The first is called the Land
+of Canaan: the second, Fort Island, being the spot where a fort was
+originally erected, and a military post established for the defence of
+the colony; which was then settled higher up the water, than it is at
+present: the next is simply named the Third Island. At the entrance of a
+creek called Kamonuy, we found a fourth, which was the last we met with
+in our route. It was about two o’clock in the afternoon when we reached
+the Kamonuy creek; upon entering which we perceived a striking change of
+scenery. Instead of moving upon a bold and spacious river, studded with
+islands, we were now conducted into a confined channel of deep black
+water, leading into the heavy gloom of the forest, and overhung with
+trees, whose dark foliage, meeting from the opposite banks, formed an
+umbrageous canopy, which, even at mid-day, enveloped us, as it were, in
+the still shades of night.
+
+Having yet a great distance to make before we could arrive at our next
+place of rest, and fearing lest, as the evening advanced, we might
+mistake any of the turnings of our channel, and be led into the
+uninhabited depths of the forest, we took our dinners in the creek,
+without stopping the boat, and, in order to avoid every delay, rested
+the negroes by turns, during the time of supplying them with the
+necessary support of their toil.
+
+In the bed of this dark and narrow stream were many broken stumps of
+trees, which endangered the bottom of our boat; but we escaped with only
+slightly rubbing against some of them as we passed.
+
+From the Kamonuy we were led into the Woratilla creek, which was still
+narrower and darker than the former; and out of the Woratilla, we turned
+into another creek, called Mabeira, which was so contracted as totally
+to prevent the negroes from rowing: they were, therefore, obliged to
+stand up in the boat, and drive it forward by pushing with the ends of
+their oars against the banks at the sides. Soon after entering the third
+creek we were conducted into a wide and open savanna, at the remotest
+end of which we could just discern the lonely home of Mr. Edmonstone,
+whither we were bound, and at which it seemed we might quickly arrive. A
+small cannon was accordingly fired from the boat to announce our
+approach. But before we came near to the house, the windings of the
+creek took us back into the deep shades; and after proceeding in the
+dark for some time, we again found ourselves in the savanna, and were as
+before deluded by a seemingly rapid advance to the house; but again, and
+again, the numerous bendings of the channel reconducted us into the dark
+bosom of the forest.
+
+It was fortunate that we had reached the entrance of this very narrow
+stream before the night set in, or we might have passed the turning, and
+have been carried into the woods, widely astray from our course: for
+during the time of our slow moving along the Mabeira creek, we were
+overtaken by the most impenetrable darkness; in the midst of which an
+accident occurred, which we feared might prove fatal to one of our
+slaves, who from not being able to see the bank, missed the land with
+his oar, and fell overboard. Happily, from the habits of the negroes,
+they are in a manner amphibious, and this man had no sooner reached the
+bottom, than he rose again to the surface, and swimming after us,
+quickly climbed into the boat; when, on being asked if the water was
+deep, he replied in the true negro dialect, “_Deep like a hell, Massa!_”
+then shaking his skin, resumed his toil as if nothing had happened.
+
+Before we had recovered from the anxiety caused by this accident, we
+were again brought into the savanna, when we perceived the lights of the
+house to be very near to us. The cup was now at our lips, but we were
+still to be tantalized, and were again carried into the deep gloom of
+the woods, where we continued to pursue the tedious windings of the
+creek, until the open savanna had grown nearly as dark as the close
+shades of the forest, and we could scarcely perceive Mr. Edmonstone,
+when at length, he hailed us, at the front of his dwelling.
+
+Our journey had not been enlivened with much of variety, even in the
+course of the river; and from the time of our entering the creeks, we
+were shut in sombre solitude. In the forest a death-like stillness
+prevailed. The scene was cheerless as confined: o’ercast with solemn
+darkness, the woods seemed uninhabited, and scarcely did a bird or an
+insect chirp a note to disturb the silent shades.
+
+From the landing-place up to the house we ascended by a rising path,
+which by our feet we distinguished as a peculiarity, having so long been
+treading a flat soil interrupted only by dykes and ditches. A short time
+after our arrival the table was spread with ham, pepper-pot, laba, and
+other dishes, of which our party partook with travellers’ appetite. Soon
+afterwards we retired to rest, my fellow-travellers in their
+hammocks,—myself upon a mattress.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XXIV.
+
+
+                                                                  March.
+
+At Mr. Edmonstone’s tranquil and solitary home, we passed the hours of
+darkness in sound repose, undisturbed by the tormenting musquitoes,
+which we had found excessively annoying at the Hermitage the night
+before.
+
+In the morning Mr. Edmonstone placed himself at the head of our corps,
+and, attended by four or five negroes, together with a venerable and
+sagacious Indian, we set out upon an expedition into the woods, in
+search of the plants and scions, which had formed the leading objects of
+our journey. Some heavy showers having fallen in the night, we found it
+unpleasant walking; but we persevered in our pursuit, and toiled far
+into the woods, remaining upon our legs from nine o’clock in the morning
+until two in the afternoon, and, to my surprise, without experiencing
+any fatigue. An ample collection of rare specimens of plants and fruits
+was the reward of our labour; and we had the further gratification of
+witnessing, in the course of our perambulation, a variety of scenery,
+which cannot be met with in the flat and more cultivated parts of the
+colony. We traversed thick and wild forests, crossed rivulets and limpid
+streams, climbed up rude hills, and descended into deep gullies; which
+created a novelty that animated our attention, and banished all sense of
+weariness.
+
+For the most part, our road was only a narrow path cut by the Bucks, and
+so closely bordered, as to confine us to the Indian file. At times the
+forest was thinner, and we could see to a distance betwixt its shades,
+or walk two or three abreast, under the trees at the sides of our path.
+Twice only we came to open spots, which had more the appearance of
+plains than of thickets, and were mere patches of arid and sandy soil,
+which refused every thing of nourishment to the vegetable world. All the
+other parts were more or less covered with shrubs and forest trees, the
+latter of which are of immense height and bulk. They are usually
+perpendicular in their growth: their wood is heavy, and of uncommonly
+hard texture, approaching, in some instances, to the solidity, weight,
+and even the sound of metallic substances.
+
+It occurred to me as remarkable, that in this long walk through the
+woods, we saw no decayed remains of trees, either standing like the
+hollow shells we often see in England, or lying upon the ground, sunk
+with age. Neither did we meet with prostrate trunks, which had been
+broken down, or uprooted by the winds. All appeared in the fulness of
+health and vigour, as if their erect and stately pillars had, through
+many ages, been growing side by side, and were never to surrender to
+all-destructive years. Most of them were without branches, except near
+to their summits, where their thick foliage commonly forms a canopy
+which is not easily penetrated by the sun or the rain.
+
+Among a variety of specimens, we collected some fine plants of the
+Tonquin bean, the Souwarrow nut, the wild orange, and a species of the
+medlar. Of birds and four-footed animals the woods appeared to contain
+but few. Two wild hogs, some parrots, and parroquets formed nearly the
+list of all we saw; nor did the forest seem to abound with insects, for
+scarcely had I passed a day, since my arrival upon the coast of Guiana,
+so entirely free from the annoyance of these minor objects of creation.
+We noticed only two or three musquitoes, of feeble growth and feeble
+wing, in the woods; and at Mr. Edmonstone’s not one appeared.
+
+After our return from the forest, we partook of a most plentiful dinner,
+and in the evening strolled about the environs, either separately, or in
+divided parties, according to our several inclinations. In this ramble
+it happened that I trod my way into an Indian hut, where I found the
+family, consisting of a man, two women, and three children, employed
+preparing their pepper-pot and cassada for supper.
+
+The next morning I rose at an early hour, and returned to the spot,
+intending to repeat my visit to this group of Indians; when, lo! I found
+only the empty hut! Probably they had a better reason for moving, than
+my disturbing them by an abrupt evening call; but, whatever occasioned
+it, they had packed up the furniture and utensils of their humble abode,
+and taking all with them into their canoe, decamped in the night, into
+the woods.
+
+From the Indian hut I walked into the forest, and, having a small
+thermometer in my pocket, I suspended it, for some time, in the damp and
+heavy shade of the woods; when it fell to 72: I, then, immersed it in
+the open water of the creek, and it rose to 73½. In the house it was at
+73; at noon on the day preceding, the mercury was at 81.
+
+Before I take you from the forest-embosomed abode of Mr. Edmonstone, I
+should tell you that in a small garret of this sequestered home is
+living a very extraordinary character, in the person of an old Scotsman,
+an antiquated and eccentric being of the school of Loutherbourg; and who
+is, here, regarded as a literary phænomenon—a _literal_ one he certainly
+is! He had formerly known better days; but having been reduced to
+poverty, he is become an exile from his country, and in this profound
+seclusion, passes his declining days in the dull and harmless round of
+reading an old Hebrew bible, and two or three worm-eaten volumes of
+Greek and Latin. His person is plain, his figure meager, and his visage
+pallid. In manner, he is formal and pedantic. His wardrobe and furniture
+vie with the antiquity of his library, and both apparel and apartment
+well accord with his limited occupation. His wants being few and easily
+supplied, he lives contented and happy. We found him teaching Mr.
+Edmonstone’s children to read: and this we understood to be a duty of
+relaxation—a kind of remission from his converse with the musty old
+volumes, in the perusal and re-perusal of which he finds the solace of
+his cares, and the gratification of all his remaining ambition.
+
+We loitered away the forenoon at Mr. Edmonstone’s, sending our boat
+round by way of the creeks, and the river, to meet us at an estate
+called Sand-hill, in the evening. We likewise despatched a smaller boat
+down the river, with the specimens of plants, roots, and cuttings we had
+collected in the woods; and, after making an early dinner with Mr.
+Edmonstone, he very kindly took us on, in his large canoe, to prosecute
+our journey. We returned down the Mabeira creek; but, instead of going
+north, when we opened into the Woratilla to proceed to the Kamonuy
+creek, and the river, we took the opposite course in order to penetrate
+deeper into the woods; and, when we had paddled, to a short distance, up
+the southern channel of the Woratilla creek, we were set on shore upon
+its eastern bank, and from thence took our route, on foot, through the
+forest to the Sand-hill.
+
+This was a walk of two hours over rude hills, across deep gullies, and
+through woods, which to an European seemed impenetrable. The forest
+lies, as it were, in waves of alternate ridges and valleys, and the
+trees stand so close together, that a person unaccustomed to such
+travelling could have no hope of making his way through it. At best our
+path was only that of the Bucks, which compelled us to follow each other
+in the unsocial single line, and, at several times, this obscure track
+was not discernible _to us_: but an experienced old _negro_, whom Mr.
+Edmonstone had selected as our guide and conductor, seemed to know every
+tree and twig we had to pass; and directed our steps, with as much
+accuracy, as if a broad turnpike road had been all the way before him;
+although it often happened that we had to form a path by pulling away
+the branches and brambles with our hands.
+
+A short time previous to our arrival at the Sand-hill, we suddenly
+escaped out of the deep shades of the forest, and one of the most varied
+and beautiful scenes, which can be found in the colony, opened before
+us. Suppose yourself in a country where flat waters, and heavy woods
+form one unbroken sameness, and imagine that after a walk of two hours,
+through the obscurity of almost impenetrable forests, you, unexpectedly,
+rush forth upon an extensive plain, where the eye immediately fixes upon
+a handsome house, together with a bold curve of a large river, winding
+its course, at a great depth below you, and the view stretching far over
+the woods of its opposite bank, then you will have a tolerably accurate
+picture of the scene which presented itself before us, at the Sand-hill.
+It was highly novel, being more open, varied, and extended than at any
+other inhabited spot of these boundless forests.
+
+Correctly speaking, the land which appeared to us as a plain, was a hill
+of sand, whose flat surface was elevated at least a hundred feet about
+the river, and overhung the water in a bold precipice; but the opposite
+shore was low and flat, being scarcely raised above the level of the
+river, which caused the uninterrupted summit of its thick woods to
+appear before us, like a verdant field of unlimited extent.
+
+We advanced to the house, quite enraptured with its commanding
+situation: but,—shall I tell you? ... it was the abode of inhospitality!
+Shall I say that this house, “erected on the rising ground,” was,
+perhaps, the only one in the colony, where a stranger would have found
+an _unwelcome home_! We were greeted with a forbidding coldness—a
+freezing formality; and were entertained with a miserable penury, of
+which I had not believed the coast of Guiana could furnish an example;
+and I feel penetrated with grief and disappointment in marking the
+Sand-hill as an exception to the general hospitality, which I had found
+to prevail so eminently in these colonies.
+
+I will not attempt to decide how far the conduct of the lord of this
+domain might be influenced by climate, but there was much of semblance
+between the coldness of his manner, and the chilling air of his place of
+residence; for, on our entering upon the plain of the Sand-hill, when we
+came out of the forest, we had all felt shivering with cold, and were
+glad to put on our coats, which we had thrown off in our walk through
+the woods. Between five and six o’clock the next morning I found the
+thermometer at 67; and, at noon, it was only 80.
+
+It consisted with the tides of the river, and with our convenience, in
+waiting the leisure of Mr. Edmonstone, to make this repulsive home our
+resting-place for the night, and until the afternoon of the following
+day; but the ungracious reception, we met with, caused the hours to pass
+very heavily: as soon, therefore, as the tide served, and Mr. Edmonstone
+was ready to accompany us, we took our departure for the “Loo,”
+quitting, without regret, the most delightful situation in the colony.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XXV.
+
+
+                                                                  March.
+
+The Loo is a plantation belonging to Mr. Haslin. The slaves were
+employed four hours in rowing to this estate from the Sand-hill. At the
+time we arrived, the manager was from home: but, nevertheless, we took
+possession of the mansion, spread the cloth, and, placing our ham and
+the other provisions of the boat upon table, sat down without ceremony
+to supper. On his return the manager unexpectedly found, in his chamber,
+a party of seven, seated round the social board; and in our suite were
+no less than fifteen slaves, making together a body of twenty-two
+persons, who with provisions, hammocks, and baggage, nearly filled the
+house so as to prevent its master from entering: but, like a true
+colonist of the country, and unlike the repulsive lord of the Sand-hill,
+this gentleman hailed us with cordial greetings, expressed himself happy
+to see the whole party, and even apologized for, what he was pleased to
+term, his misfortune, in not being at home to welcome our arrival.
+Immediately all the best things of the larder were added to our supper,
+and our bountiful host further intreated us to suspend our appetites,
+and allow him to dress fowls, eggs, and all he could prepare, to improve
+the meal. In short, his conduct was consistent with the prevailing
+urbanity of the colony, and in the generous attentions of the Loo we
+forgot the arid and inhospitable Sand-hill. The evening passed away very
+pleasantly, and our hammocks were conveniently slung for the night.
+Early in the morning we resumed our seats in the boat. Coffee was served
+to us at the time of rising, and we set off, without delay, to prosecute
+our journey to “the Falls.”
+
+The mercury in the thermometer was this morning at 72, being five
+degrees higher than at the same hour of the preceding day, at the more
+elevated situation of the Sand-hill.
+
+After rowing for about three hours and a half up the river, we felt some
+calls of appetite, and finding ourselves near to a plantation, we, in
+the true marooning spirit, went on shore in search of breakfast. Our
+reception was friendly, and we were welcomed with much civility by the
+manager, whom we found to be a petit-maître, whose fondness for the
+decoration of his person was very conspicuous, and afforded us some
+diversion. An Adonis in the woods was a great novelty; and,
+notwithstanding his politeness and liberality towards us, we could not
+but smile at the gaiety of his apparel, particularly the depth of his
+frills and ruffles, which, full-flowing at his wrists and bosom, almost
+enveloped his meager person. Amidst the undressed Africans, and the
+still more naked Indians, about his home, he of course was unrivalled,
+and possessed the superlative gratification of standing alone, the _rara
+avis_ of the forest.
+
+But to the honor of this solitary _beau_, his foibles in no degree
+interrupted his better feelings. He was correctly _au fait_ with respect
+to the hospitable attentions due to strangers; and he entertained us
+with the utmost cordiality. Nor did he confine himself barely to
+receiving and accommodating us with civility, but, further, expressed
+much regret that we were come for so short a visit, and urgently invited
+us to prolong our stay. At breakfast he provided us with a high feast,
+by giving us some hot rolls and fresh butter, together with a dish of
+fine oranges and other fruits.
+
+After pursuing our journey about three hours further up the river, we
+came to the cottage of a wood-cutter, where we met with a very active
+and intelligent negro woman, who welcomed us to her master’s home, and
+adding a laba pepper-pot to our boat-provisions, quickly set before us a
+very neat and plentiful dinner.
+
+We afterwards made a visit to a mulatto man, named John Hill, an
+eccentric character, well known to the gentlemen of the colony; and who
+had here built himself a small house, in which he was settled as a free
+inhabitant, living in a sort of independence upon the wood-cutter’s
+estate.
+
+In the course of our walk, I had the opportunity of observing a species
+of negro-labour that was new to me; having met a party of sixteen naked
+slaves, male and female, in the act of dragging the trunk of an immense
+tree out of the forest, with ropes. They were conducted by a driver with
+his whip: and pulled on the load by mere strength of arm, having no
+assistance from any machinery, and only availing themselves of the
+simple expedient of placing small billets of wood under the tree, at
+short distances from each other, in order to prevent it from sinking
+into the dirt, and doubling their toil.
+
+Finding that it would be a long and fatiguing journey, to make the whole
+of the distance, from the wood-cutter’s to Mr. Mutz’s, the
+Post-holder’s, on the morrow, and learning that there was a tolerable
+building on the way, where we might hang up our hammocks for the night,
+we rowed two or three hours further in the evening, borrowing an old
+negro woman to take with us as a guide, lest, in the approaching
+darkness, we might pass the hut without observing it.
+
+The scenery sensibly improved, as we advanced up the river. During this
+day’s journey we saw some lofty, irregular hills, which formed a very
+pleasing and picturesque variety, and relieved the dull uniformity of
+smooth water, and flat woods, so peculiar to this coast.
+
+About eight o’clock we arrived at the dwelling which had been pointed
+out to us as a convenient resting-place for the night. Its exterior was
+not very inviting, and we found both house and accommodations the most
+comfortless of all that we met with throughout our expedition. The rooms
+were small and confined, but neatness happened not to be a predominant
+passion of the possessor. We felt no inducement to banquet away the
+night, but took a glass of simple grog, and very soon after our arrival,
+retired supperless to our hammocks; some in a close unpleasant chamber;
+the others, like the Bucks, under an open hovel.
+
+We rose with the sun, and, being glad to escape from the house, made the
+boat our dressing-room; then, according to the Dutch custom, defended
+our stomachs from the morning damp, by a cup of coffee, and, without
+further delay, proceeded on our way to Mr. Mutz’s, the remotest European
+residence in the colony.
+
+In this part of our journey, the whole scenery became strikingly
+changed, and, after the insipid monotony of flat woods and water, the
+objects which now presented themselves were so novel and varied, that
+all around us seemed calculated to excite a strong and peculiar
+interest. Many of the inhabitants of the forest were moving upon the
+river in their canoes; some alone, some in families, and some in larger
+bodies: cottages and Indian huts occasionally opened to our view in the
+woods: high banks sometimes bordered the river; and, not unfrequently,
+hills and lofty summits crowned its shores.
+
+From the Bucks, whom we met in their canoes, we purchased a few parrots
+and Amazonian parroquets, called Keiz-keiz, together with some bows and
+arrows, war-clubs, and various specimens of Indian implements, and
+household apparatus; and feeling anxious not to pass, unnoticed, any
+thing that might afford us gratification, we went on shore to make short
+visitings at the several huts and cottages which caught our observation
+in the woods, or upon the banks of the river.
+
+At one of these places of call we found a Dutchman named Hasmond, who
+had recently taken up his abode in this sequestered part of the colony.
+Upon our remarking that he had very much the air of an old soldier, we
+were informed that he had been many years in the army of the Prince of
+Orange, and having retired from the service, had now built himself a
+small house, and settled here to seek his fortune, as a wood-cutter.
+
+At another of the cottages we met with an aged Spaniard, named Pezano,
+perhaps the most eccentric character, and the most remarkable personage
+of the colony. This man had formed to himself a little cottage-abode,
+and was living at this secluded home in the woods, the friend and
+associate, and a kind of chief among the Bucks; although more than sixty
+years old, he had made his selection from the forests, and had taken,
+unto himself, no less than four Indian wives; who were handsome, and
+some youthful, the youngest being only eleven years of age. Thus you
+find disparity of years, between man and wife, is not peculiar to
+polished circles, or opulent cities: neither is the spirit of intrigue,
+for Pezano’s wives are not said to rival the chaste Penelope.
+
+This Spaniard was originally from Oronoko: but he had passed
+twenty-eight years, as a manager upon different estates in the colonies
+of Demarara and Essequibo; and had now appropriated to himself an abode
+amidst the great family of the woods; where, from cultivating the
+friendship of the Bucks, he induces them to assist him in felling timber
+to sell to the colonists; by which means, together with the produce of
+his gun, and the planting of roots, and other culinary vegetables, about
+his dwelling, he procures a sufficiency of food for the support of
+himself and his women. In colour Pezano is scarcely fairer than his
+Indian associates. He is low in stature, of spare habit, and decrepit
+figure, but is lively and animated, and possesses great energy of mind,
+with far more of bodily activity, than his figure seems to indicate.
+Anticipating much of information and amusement from his conversation, we
+were desirous to have the old Spaniard as our guide, from the
+Post-holder’s to the Falls, and therefore invited him to accompany us in
+the boat to Mr. Mutz’s. He expressed a willingness to oblige us: but
+Pezano might not move in obscurity! He was here a king, and must proceed
+in state. He would take his leisure, and, attended by his proper
+retinue, come at another hour. Having obtained his promise, we were
+satisfied, and, leaving to his choice the mode in which he should
+travel, we took our departure, and proceeded, without further delay, to
+Ooest Vriesland, the abode of the Post-holder; where we arrived about
+three o’clock in the afternoon.
+
+This is the remotest dwelling,—the furthest from the coast and the sea,
+possessed by Europeans, in the settlement. It forms the link of
+connexion between the bay natives of the woods, and the white
+inhabitants of the colony, being established by the latter as a post of
+communication for the purpose of administering friendly offices, and
+cultivating an amicable intercourse with the Indians.
+
+A short time after we arrived, Pezano and his suite were descried,
+paddling up the river, in two loaded canoes. Upon their reaching the
+landing-place, we discovered that the venerable Spaniard was attended by
+three of his wives; also by a party of the Bucks, under command of an
+old Indian, who was appointed their captain, and decorated with a broad
+laced hat, carrying in his hand, as a further token of distinction, a
+tall silver-headed staff, with which he preceded his troop in all the
+stateliness of his office.
+
+Next to king Pezano, the bearer of these insignia felt himself the
+mightiest prince of the forest, and affected an air of dignity, not less
+consequential, than is sometimes assumed by greater men, upon being
+invested with a wand, or a riband.
+
+The house of the Post-holder is rather small, but arranged with much
+neatness. It is pleasantly situated upon rising ground, and commands a
+fine bend of the river, which flows before it in a clear and limpid
+stream. We found it an interesting and agreeable resting-place. The door
+was opened to us with a cheerful welcome. Our reception was strictly
+hospitable, and we were entertained with a liberality as unbounded, as
+it was unaffected.
+
+From Mr. Mutz we learned that, by making a long day of the morrow, we
+might complete our journey to “the Falls,” and return to his house in
+the evening. This was pleasant as unexpected intelligence; for beyond
+the Post-holder’s dwelt neither European nor colonist: nor was there any
+place of call whatsoever. The forest was possessed only by its wild
+inhabitants, and for every accommodation, we must depend upon the
+limited resources of our boat. Relying therefore upon Mr. Mutz to make
+the necessary arrangements for the remainder of our voyage, we left it
+to him and Pezano, to plan our proceedings for the following day.
+
+The Post-holder is married to a Dutchwoman, but we had not the pleasure
+of this lady’s society. She was in ill health, and had been sent into
+the woods, to the Bucks, to be cured. I could not learn what were the
+remedies used by the Indians for her relief: but I procured a few
+specimens of gums, and nuts, employed by these inhabitants of the
+forest, in their practice of medicine.
+
+Mr. Mutz pleaded the absence of his lady in excuse for treating us with,
+what he was pleased to term, “such homely fare.” But we could discover
+no cause of apology whatever, for a general neatness prevailed, and an
+ample plenty spread the generous board.
+
+We had also the great luxury of pure spring water, clear as crystal. I
+need not tell you how much more highly this was prized, than if it had
+been the finest wine. It was the first I had tasted in the colony, and
+was an uncommon treat to me; for, although I continue to take wine, as a
+convalescent, water is still my usual drink.
+
+Whilst the dinner was preparing, we amused ourselves, in company with
+Pezano and a party of Indians, shooting with the bow and arrow. The
+afternoon passed very delightfully, in hearing the conversation and
+interesting remarks of the Post-holder, and the old Spaniard. In the
+evening, we again strung the bow; some of us also enjoyed the pleasure
+of bathing in the very inviting and pellucid river.
+
+About nine o’clock we went to our hammocks, some in chambers, some in
+the passages, and some under the house, which was built upon pillars, a
+considerable height from the ground. It will be seen from this, how
+little difficulty occurs in lodging large parties of friends or
+strangers, in a warm climate. Neither extensive buildings, nor a number
+of rooms, nor even beds, paillasses, or mattresses are required. A few
+cleets, or iron hooks, fastened up in different parts of the house, for
+the support of hammocks, are all that necessity demands. From this
+facility of arrangement for the night, the ceremony of invitation is not
+always held requisite, and it is often seen that marooning parties,
+consisting of no inconsiderable numbers, make their visitations
+unexpectedly, yet find convenient accommodations even in the smallest
+houses, and the most retired situations.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XXVI.
+
+
+                                                                  March.
+
+The next morning we rose at three o’clock to prepare for our last day’s
+journey up the river. At a little before five we went into the boat,
+accompanied by Pezano, and attended by a venerable Indian in his canoe.
+We were six hours and a half rowing to the falls. On the way we saw,
+within the woods at the sides of the river, several houses of the
+Indians, some of which we visited; but we met fewer of the Bucks moving
+in their canoes, than we had seen the preceding day. In one of the
+houses we found Mrs. Mutz, the wife of the Post-holder, lying in a
+hammock suspended over a fire, according to the Indian mode of sleeping.
+
+This part of the country was diversified with hills; some of which were
+more lofty than any we had passed in the course of the river, and at one
+spot we observed, for the first time upon the coast of Guiana, a naked
+rock of stone, hanging in huge form, over the edge of the water. It
+being the only mass of the kind, I might almost say the only stone, that
+I had seen in the colony, I took away a piece as a specimen of the
+mineralogy of the country.
+
+At half past eleven o’clock, we arrived at what are called _the falls_—a
+term which had conveyed to my expectation the idea of a cascade, perhaps
+something like the falls of Schaffhausen, or the great body of the river
+pouring down from a vast height in one immense column, forming an
+example of very grand, or highly picturesque scenery: but you will judge
+of my disappointment, when you are informed that instead of a second
+Niagara, these falls were merely the shallow water, gently rippling in
+broken stream, over some irregular rocks of whinstone, which here
+crossed the river from side to side, and that they more resembled the
+running of an ordinary brook, than the rushing torrent of a loud-roaring
+cascade. Nothing could be more tame and unimpressive. We were able to
+row in the boat up to the very rocks, and even to step upon them, in the
+middle of the current that was passing over them, without wetting our
+shoe-tops. In no part were the falls two feet in height. The Indians are
+in the habit of carrying their canoes over them, and proceeding in their
+course up the river: or, in the rainy season, when the stream is more
+rapid, they make a path in the bordering woods, and carry their canoes
+through the forest, until they have passed the falls, and then resume
+their voyage upon the water.
+
+After inspecting all that we wished to see, and breaking off some
+specimens of the rock which caused the falls, we took our dinners in the
+boat, and concluded our expedition up the river by marking its date,
+together with each of our names, upon a piece of paper, which we
+inclosed in a glass bottle, and having corked it securely, left it
+fastened up in one of the trees, upon the bank of the river.
+
+I wish it were possible to convey to you a just idea of the joy and
+happiness expressed by the negroes, upon putting about the boat to
+return. From rowing a heavy load always against the current, and
+sometimes against the tide, together with feeling no interest in the
+voyage, nor in any way comprehending the object of it, the journey, to
+them, had been very fatiguing, and they were totally at a loss to
+conjecture why we should have undertaken it. Each seemed to say by his
+looks, “What have ye journeyed hither to see?” and one of them even
+ventured to ask, “_For what Massa come so far?_” when on being informed
+that it was to see the country, and the river, he exclaimed, “_Country,
+where country? River, wa’ river?_” then, all of them uttering a loud,
+and most significant laugh, they plied their oars with redoubled vigour,
+to conduct us back towards the sea. At the very turning of the boat all
+sense of fatigue was banished, and with unurged exertion they rowed Us
+to the Post-holder’s within three hours and a half; notwithstanding a
+considerable delay, produced by our going on shore to ascend one of the
+hills at the side of the water, which we conjectured to be about 200
+feet above the level of the river.
+
+We remarked that upon this hill the woods did not appear so thick and
+crowded as they are commonly found to be upon the lower lands, nearer
+the sea; but the trees were of stronger growth, and formed pillars of
+uncommonly majestic stature, being, both in height and diameter,
+immense. Towards the bottom, they throw out several flattened
+projections, which, making so many parts of the trunk, stand round it,
+like the supporting buttresses of an old cathedral, and form, between
+them, deep recesses, into which it would be possible to retire for
+concealment, or for protection, against the heaviest storms of rain; and
+in some instances ten or twelve persons might find shelter between these
+projections, within the superficies of a single tree.
+
+We arrived at Mr. Mutz’s between six and seven o’clock, just as it was
+growing dark, and found a plentiful supper, prepared by the bounteous
+Post-holder, for our refreshment.
+
+The society of Mr. Mutz and Pezano afforded us another very pleasant
+evening, and I could gladly have sat until morning listening to their
+anecdotes and observations; but, at an hour, which to me seemed early,
+as indeed any hour would, under such circumstances, we retired to our
+sleeping-births, placed as on the preceding night.
+
+At six o’clock we again left our hammocks, when, from the chilliness of
+the air, all the party complained of cold, and on placing the
+thermometer at the outside of the door, the mercury fell to 66; which
+was one degree below what it had been at the same hour at the Sand-hill,
+and as low as I had seen it, in any situation, upon this coast.
+
+Having effected the leading objects of our excursion, it only remained
+to us to return with all speed, and exchange the wild scenery of rocks,
+hills, and lofty forests, for the muddy coast, and flat fields of sugar
+and cotton. Accordingly we made our acknowledgments to Pezano and the
+Post-holder, and, as soon as we had breakfasted, took our seats in the
+boat to proceed down the river. Early in the afternoon we arrived at the
+wood-cutter’s, where we had been so hospitably received by the
+intelligent black woman of the house. Unluckily the master was again
+absent, but we were liberally entertained, as before, by his kind Wowski
+and Mr. John Hill, the mulatto, who very quickly added to our
+boat-supply a pepper-pot, some cassada, and such other provisions as the
+situation afforded.
+
+Hill had been into the woods in the morning, and killed a fine laba,
+which, immediately upon our arrival, was scalded to remove its coat, and
+within a few minutes it was cut in pieces, and put into the kettle with
+cassada juice, pods of red pepper, and various vegetables, for the
+purpose of being stewed into a most excellent pepper-pot, which in a
+little time was placed on the table.
+
+The negroes took their meal of rice, and after giving them sufficient
+rest to fit them for their further toil, we proceeded upon our journey,
+purposing to sleep at the Loo; but it grew late before we reached this
+estate, and the tide being for some time against us, it was a day of
+severe labour to the slaves, yet they supported it with great
+cheerfulness; and, in their willing exertions, evinced the high
+satisfaction they felt on returning towards the coast and the town.
+Exclusive of delays and stoppages we were fourteen hours on the water.
+Towards the end of the journey we felt extremely anxious on account of
+the fatigue of the negroes; but upon one of the gentlemen saying that
+“surely the Loo must have run away,” they replied with animation,
+“_Neber mind Massa, if he run to de Sand-hill, we catch him dere_:”—the
+Sand-hill was sixteen or seventeen miles further down the river.
+
+The evening was peculiarly still. A dampness hung over the water, and
+although the thermometer fell only to 74, the air felt chilly; but the
+moon shone bright, and upon the whole it was pleasant; we felt glad,
+therefore, of the opportunity of making a tranquil moonlight journey,
+upon the silent river, amidst these wild and endless woods. At one spot
+we heard the sound of paddles upon the water, and on listening to it,
+found that a canoe was pursuing us. Presently it came up with us, and we
+were accosted by some negroes, who had been despatched by the proprietor
+of an estate which we had passed, to invite us to return and spend the
+evening at his house. At this moment we thought ourselves nearer to the
+Loo than we really were, and declined the invitation: but afterwards, on
+account of the slaves, we were sorry that we had not accepted it. It was
+half past ten o’clock when we arrived at the Loo, and all the family
+were in bed; but they quickly roused from their repose, and, in a short
+time, a supper of grilled chickens, and various other dishes was set
+before us. At midnight we very willingly sought our hammocks, having
+suffered nearly as much fatigue from sitting still so many hours, as the
+negroes had experienced from the labour of pulling the oars.
+
+The next morning all the party had their ears and noses actually pinched
+with cold, and on observing the thermometer, we found that it had fallen
+to 65¾, being ¼ of a degree lower than at the Post-holder’s. Some of the
+gentlemen even complained that they had been kept awake in the night,
+from the severity of the cold, which was a very unusual occurrence, and
+such as I had not before witnessed in this climate.
+
+Coffee was served to us at the hour of rising, and we afterwards sat
+down to a most copious breakfast, consisting of cassada-bread, ham,
+fresh butter, roasted potatoes, plantains, tea, coffee, &c. &c.
+
+We embarked at the earliest moment of the tide, in order to make a long
+day, and, if possible, to reach an estate called the _Garden of Eden_ at
+night; which with great toil we did effect at half past ten o’clock: the
+whole day being spent afloat. About dinner-time we found ourselves
+opposite the Sand-hill, but, recollecting our former unwelcome
+reception, we contented ourselves with resting upon our oars, in the
+middle of the river, to take our dinner of bread and cheese, and cold
+ham, without going on shore.
+
+This day was even more severe for the negroes, than the day preceding,
+but they still laboured with great willingness, being impatient to reach
+the town, besides knowing that, upon the way, there was no other
+convenient resting-place for the night, and that from being longer
+absent than we had expected, we were all anxious to arrive at Stabroek
+as speedily as possible. But, however willing the exertions of the
+slaves, strong signs of fatigue were evinced, long before we came to the
+Garden of Eden; and it was only by great encouragement, and a
+well-devised stratagem, that we were prevented from being detained all
+night on the water. Observing that they rowed with languor, and that we
+made but little progress, the cockswain was desired to exchange the helm
+for an oar, and to enliven his comrades with a song, encouraging them to
+join in chorus, and to pull together in musical time. This operated with
+magic effect. Every slave seemed to be inspired, and forgetting all
+sense of weariness, they laboured with renovated spirit. We were not
+more pleased with the result of the expedient, than amused by the ready
+ingenuity with which our wizard cockswain composed his appropriate song,
+and gave it all the effect of enchantment. Resigning the helm to the
+weakest slave, he placed himself amidst the crew in the centre of the
+boat, and plying his oar more vigorously than the others, he invented
+extempore lines for a favorite African tune, finishing each stanza with
+“_gnyaam gnyaam row, gnyaam gnyaam row_,” in which all were to join by
+way of chorus; and we found that “gnyaam gnyaam row” never failed to
+give additional force to the oar, and consequent head-way to our
+pinnace.
+
+The names of the slaves, their wives, their food, drink, and all their
+pleasures were introduced in song, and tuned to the stroke of the oar;
+likewise the names of each of the party whom they were rowing, their
+professions, qualities, and occupations, and their several intentions
+towards the crew, all made a part of this inspiring air, which, however
+ridiculous in the words and music, in its effect succeeded even to a
+wonder. The tugging of the oar, the directing of the helm, even the
+position of the slaves, and the compensation each might expect, as the
+reward of his toil, were all adroitly included, and “gnyaam gnyaam row”
+accompanied and invigorated every stretch of the oar. Led on by these
+persuasive themes, each seemed to emulate the exertions of the
+all-animating cock swain, and throwing off the heavy marks of fatigue,
+they conducted us merrily and speedily to “Garden-Eden.”
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXVII.
+
+
+                                                                  March.
+
+Garden-Eden is an extensive sugar estate, belonging to Mr. T. Cuming, a
+rich planter of much merit, and of great influence in the colony. It is
+under the management of a Mr. Boyce, by whom we were received with
+greetings worthy the prevailing hospitality of Guiana, treated with an
+excellent supper, and Falernum wine, and accommodated in comfort until
+morning.
+
+Previous to our departure from this estate, I was requested to make a
+visit at one of the huts in the negro yard; where, it was said, I might
+witness a phenomenon, and be “convinced of a fact which overturns all
+the sceptical reasonings of medical men,” regarding the influence of
+imagination upon the conformation of the human frame, and its power of
+conferring or altering the figure of the fœtus _in utero_.
+
+The subject of our visitation was a mulatto man * * * * * twenty-eight
+years of age, who is said to have been born with all his bones broken,
+in consequence of his mother having been present at the infliction of a
+horrible punishment. Perhaps, as one of the medical tribe, I may be
+allowed to maintain my scepticism, even with this example before my
+eyes; still, as the appearances of the object, and the circumstances of
+the case, were peculiar, and some of them well authenticated, I cannot,
+consistently with the plan of our correspondence, omit noting to you
+what I heard related of the history, and what I observed with regard to
+the figure of this very singular mulatto.
+
+The father was a strong and healthy Dutch soldier: the mother a robust,
+well-formed negro woman. They had four children, all of whom are now
+arrived at the age of puberty: three of them are athletic and handsome
+mulattoes, and remarkable for the symmetry of their figures; the fourth
+is the subject in question.
+
+The father is dead, but the mother is still living; and was brought to
+me, that I might witness the form of her person, inquire into the state
+of her constitution, and ask her any questions which the case before us
+should suggest. She assured me that both herself and the father had
+enjoyed general good health, and had considered themselves as having
+been blessed with a happy exemption from disease: but that when she was
+recently pregnant of this son, she had unfortunately gone to see the
+execution of a man who was condemned to be broken upon the wheel; and
+that upon witnessing this dreadful torture, she was so struck with
+horror, as to be taken extremely ill, and was scarcely able to return to
+her home. She represented the sensations of the moment as very
+distressing, but was unable to convey any accurate description of her
+feelings. For some time afterwards it was expected that abortion would
+follow; but that not having happened, she was delivered, at the usual
+period of gestation, of this broken and disfigured offspring. Her having
+been present at the execution, and being so frightened as to be suddenly
+taken ill, were confirmed by one of the gentlemen of our party, with
+whose family she then lived. The circumstance of her recent pregnancy,
+at the time, was likewise proved by the fact of her delivery afterwards;
+but the precise period of it, at the date of the torture, I could not
+accurately ascertain. She is now of advanced age, and somewhat lame, but
+has still the remains of a well-formed person. Upon examining her I
+observed an eruption of the cra-cra about the point of one elbow, and a
+small irregular tumor upon the sternum; but these were explained to be
+of late origin. In all other respects she seemed to possess health and
+strength in proportion to her years.
+
+The figure of the son cannot be described by words. His person appeared
+as if it had been composed by throwing the materials into a bag, with a
+loose congeries of broken bones, and shaking the whole together until
+they assumed a shape approaching to that of a human being. It was not
+the tortuous construction usually occurring from scrofula, or the
+rickets. He had not the crooked twisted bones of disease. They appeared
+as if they had literally been broken, and some of them badly united,
+some not united at all. The common marks of a sickly constitution were
+absent, and he enjoyed a state of general health fully proportioned to
+the structure of his frame: indeed, from the minutest examination, I do
+not feel myself authorized to consider this very peculiarly deranged
+conformation as the effect of disease, but am rather inclined to regard
+it as an extraordinary _lusus naturæ_.
+
+His head was the only part that was well formed, and this, although of
+natural size, appeared very large, owing to the great disproportion of
+the body and extremities, which, from their distortion, had not grown in
+due course with the head.
+
+With regard to his mental faculties nothing peculiar was noticed. He
+answered the questions which were put to him expertly, and was
+considered in point of intellect to be quite equal to the generality of
+the people of colour.
+
+I placed my elbow at his side, when he was sitting as upright as his
+figure would admit, and extending my hand upwards, found that his
+height, from the seat to the crown of his head, was not quite equal to
+the length of my forearm, from the elbow to the extremities of the
+fingers.
+
+Every rib, and every limb seemed as if it had been fractured. The long
+bones of the arms, being divided in their middles, were loosely held
+together by membranous or ligamentous unions. Those of the legs appeared
+as if they had been broken, and the two parts (or rather the four parts
+of the tibia and fibula) afterwards placed together in a direction
+parallel with each other, and thus united into one broad flat bone, the
+end of which projected considerably forward in the middle of the leg,
+thinly covered with integuments, while the lower part of the limb was
+thrown backwards, with the heel up towards the thigh, so that if he had
+been placed in the erect posture, the points of the toes would have been
+brought to the ground, instead of the flat part of the foot.
+
+He had not the power of moving from his seat without assistance, except
+in a very slight degree, by a writhing, twisting, and most unseemly
+motion, wholly unassisted by his limbs. During the day he remains always
+in the sitting posture, and, from the distortion of his lower
+extremities, these are brought into a position somewhat resembling those
+of a tailor at his work. With some difficulty he could make the lower
+arm reach the head, but this was effected more from a kind of flexure,
+at the ligamentous union in the middle of the bone of the upper arm,
+than from a direct motion of the shoulder joint, the action of which was
+extremely limited, from the want of the fulcrum commonly afforded to the
+muscles by the bone of the arm.
+
+Having breakfasted, and made our visit to the poor broken-boned mulatto,
+we took a long walk into the sugar-fields of the Garden of Eden, in
+order to employ ourselves during the remainder of the time, whilst we
+were waiting for high water; and as soon as the tide served, we went
+into the boat to complete our expedition. Some beef and a roasted
+chicken were added to our store of provisions by Mr. Boyce; and without
+stopping to go on shore, we took our dinners upon the water, in order
+that we might have the advantage of the whole tide, which, in this part
+of our passage, was very strongly the friend of our cheerful and willing
+slaves. Early in the afternoon of March 7th we arrived at the
+landing-place (or Sterling) at Stabroek, having been absent eleven days,
+during which time we had traversed the woods, visited a variety of
+estates, and made an excursion of nearly two hundred miles.
+
+No accident, nor disaster, had occurred to interrupt us. We travelled
+with great convenience. The utmost harmony and satisfaction prevailed;
+and we returned in good health and spirits, highly gratified with our
+expedition. The journey was arranged and executed precisely as I could
+have wished; and I am gratefully sensible of the politeness of my kind
+companions, while I cordially thank them for the peculiar pleasure it
+has afforded me.
+
+Having made a similar excursion up the river Berbische, I frequently
+hear it remarked, that I have seen more of the country, the forests, and
+the waters of these colonies already, than almost any of the
+inhabitants, although many of them have been here a greater number of
+years, than I can yet count of months.
+
+I took an opportunity before, of noting to you, the great stability of
+temperature which prevails upon this coast; and I may now observe that
+this is not much interrupted even at the distance of 200 miles from the
+sea. In the cultivated part of the colonies, upon the immediate margin
+of the ocean, the range of the thermometer has been mostly confined
+between 72 and 85 degrees: at the remotest estates up the river, it at
+no time exceeded 84, for, notwithstanding we felt an occasional
+closeness in the atmosphere, still the wind was never entirely absent,
+and its deficiency was made up by the greater dampness and evaporation
+from the woods, so that the heat, at the falls, was not greater than in
+the full and open breeze of the coast: but, in point of coldness, the
+variation was more considerable, and we felt more sensibly affected by
+it. At the Sand-hill we bad chilly sensations, although the mercury fell
+only to 67 degrees. At the Loo, it was as low as 65¾, when the cold was
+quite piercing, and I may now add, that the greatest range in high
+situations up the river, far from the coast, has been from 65¾ to 84
+degrees, while the utmost variation upon the flat and cultivated
+territory near the sea, has been from 72 to 87.
+
+The river is spacious, and not only an ornament of the colony, but
+highly useful to it, in a commercial point of view. It is navigable for
+vessels of considerable burden, nearly as far as the falls. Its lower
+part, to the distance of many miles above the town, is muddy, and
+strongly impregnated with the salt water of the Atlantic, but from the
+Sand-hill to the falls it is less impure and remarkably clear. We found
+by the thermometer that it was, at all times, a slight degree warmer
+than the superincumbent air. In point of width, it varies at different
+parts, not growing regularly broader as it approaches the sea. At the
+falls the channel is so narrowed, that, unaided by a sling, I was able
+to throw a stone across it. At the Post-holder’s it was much wider, and
+it was only with great force, that I could shoot an arrow over, from an
+Indian bow of middle size: at several places between these two points,
+it was of greater expansion. Beyond the falls it was also broader, than
+immediately at that spot.
+
+The following rude sketch will convey to you some idea of the distance,
+from the opening of the river to the falls. It is according to the Dutch
+measurement, and the most accurate I could obtain:
+
+                 From                     To             Hours.
+         The Town of Stabroek The Plantation Garden-Eden     4½
+         Garden-Eden          The Sand-hill                  5¾
+         The Sand-hill        Mr. Bower’s estate             3¾
+         Mr. Bower’s          The Loo                        1¾
+         The Loo              Mr. Lunck’s                    2¼
+         Mr. Lunck’s          Amelie’s Waard                 2¾
+         Amelie’s Waard       Mr. Mansfield’s                2½
+         Mr. Mansfield’s      The Post-holder’s              6½
+         The Post-holder’s    The Falls                      6½
+                                                            ———
+                                            Total Hours,    36¼
+                                                            ———
+
+I should remark that this is the time required in journeying up the
+river, with the tide, occasionally, against the boat. To return towards
+the sea, with the advantage of tide and current would require less time,
+by six or seven hours; which shows the extreme inaccuracy of this mode
+of calculating distance, except upon still canals, such as those of
+Holland, where the traveller, in more than a common degree, escapes the
+influence of adventitious circumstances.
+
+The upper part of the river would be very interesting and diversified,
+were its heavy forest thinned, and the banks enriched with cultivation;
+but, from being closely bordered, on all parts, with crowded trees, it
+exhibits a degree of sameness which becomes excessively fatiguing to the
+traveller. At various points are inlets of smaller rivers, or creeks,
+which form so many dark channels, into the still darker woods. In
+passing up the river these are not seen to any extent of their course,
+but they commonly appear only as deep black holes, at the edge of the
+forest.
+
+The Indians very seldom erect their houses upon the immediate banks of
+the river, and whenever they happen to fix upon a situation near to it,
+they are careful to leave some of the bush standing, for the purpose of
+concealing the building. More frequently they establish their dwellings
+upon the borders of the creeks, or within the woods at some distance
+from the river. From being mere sheds, their habitations are readily
+constructed, at any spot where they may chance to take up their abode:
+in the selection of place, concealment, and convenience of embarkation,
+seem to be the grand desiderata: the latter would appear to be
+essential, as they often pack up every thing that belongs to them, in
+the family canoe, and suddenly depart to seek another home.
+
+On the subject of scenery, but little occurred worthy of remark. From
+the uncultivated state of the country it exhibits a rude sameness. No
+rich, nor striking point can be found: no varied prospect presents
+itself from any quarter. The palm of pre-eminence lies in a manner
+undecided, while water, and crowded woods form the universal scene.
+Whether in a valley, or upon the hills the view is still the same, being
+confined by the trees immediately around. No opening, no luxuriant nor
+extended landscape is discovered; all is river and forest: or, if you
+chance to open upon a plain, it is only a flat and wide surface—a vacant
+savanna, still surrounded with _the bush_, and wholly devoid of
+picturesque variety.
+
+The Sand-hill was, perhaps, the only exception to this languid scenery.
+There, the prospect was somewhat more animated, and from one bank of the
+river being much elevated, and divested of trees, it commanded a view
+across the water, to a considerable distance over the woods of the
+opposite shore: still it comprehended merely the smooth water, and the
+level green surface of the unbounded forest.
+
+If I speak of the soil, it can be only in vague and general remark; but
+it appeared to us that after the land became hilly, and irregular, it
+was poor, and not such as seemed capable, under all the circumstances of
+climate, &c. of being cultivated to much profit. In some parts it was
+rocky; in others sandy; and, in all, very unlike the rich exuviæ which
+form the flatter lands of this fertile coast.
+
+I might notice it as a happy exemption that, during our excursion, we
+were almost free from the tormenting annoyance of insects. In the
+deepest woods their absence was remarkable. To me the musquitoes
+constitute, perhaps, the greatest evil of the climate, and my bitten
+limbs were peculiarly sensible of the respite they obtained during this
+expedition. After we had passed the estate of Mr. Selles, where we spent
+the first night, I observed only four of these insects.
+
+It is remarked that neither in the rudest, nor in the best cultivated
+parts of these countries do insects most abound. A state of the soil,
+between high improvement, and wild neglect, or that sort of climate
+created by partial cultivation, is most congenial to these noxious
+tribes; and thus does the pestiferous atmosphere of half-cleared woods,
+and half-cultivated fields seem to be at once the poison, and the
+pabulum of animal life: operating with a twofold power, it generates the
+minor, while it destroys the higher objects of creation.
+
+On reaching the town we were hailed most cordially by our friends, who,
+in our protracted return, had anticipated all the evils of sickness and
+misfortune; and it seemed matter of surprise that so large a party
+should have concluded such an extensive excursion, all in good health,
+and without having met with any kind of accident or disaster. To some of
+the gentlemen, the change from their ordinary habits and mode of life,
+was great, and it would not have been surprising if, in this climate,
+under such circumstances, troublesome effects had ensued; but, happily,
+from the time of my losing the threatening sensations which oppressed me
+at the period of our embarkation, not an individual among us suffered
+any indisposition.
+
+We derived much gratification from the expedition, and although our
+collections from the animal, and mineral kingdoms, were but
+inconsiderable, we profited of the vegetable world very amply; and it is
+probable that the remembrance of our excursion will be perpetuated: for,
+in the course of a few years, its effects will become conspicuous, from
+a valuable assemblage of the plants and fruits of the forest enriching
+the sugar estates, and cotton fields of the colonists.
+
+Of the animal world a few monkies and Amazonian parroquets constituted
+the whole of our collection; and of minerals all we had an opportunity
+of procuring were two or three coarse specimens of common whinstone,
+which we broke from the bed of “the Falls,” and the rocks in their
+vicinity. Of the implements and apparatus of the Indians we obtained a
+liberal store.
+
+Much had been said of the multiplied perils of the forest, and we had
+heard of fierce tigers, enormous snakes, poisonous serpents, runaway
+negroes, ferocious savages, and various other dangerous inhabitants of
+the woods and the waters, but it did not happen to us to be interrupted
+by any of them: although tigers, serpents, Bush-negroes, and wild
+Indians, doubtless, exist in these regions, the peril to be apprehended
+from them, bears no proportion to the extravagant alarm pictured by the
+fearful imaginations of stay-at-home travellers. In many parts the
+profound stillness of the forest conveyed the idea of a lifeless
+solitude; indeed from the utter silence which prevailed, it might have
+seemed that we had wandered beyond the limits of animated creation.
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXVIII.
+
+
+                                                     Demarara, March 18.
+
+At my return from our late excursion the first object that attracted my
+attention, upon approaching the barracks of the hospital department, was
+a string of negroes singing out in the sailors’ cry,——Yeoh-yeoh,
+yeoh-yeoh, and hauling at a long rope, towing something heavy round the
+corner of the building. Curiosity arrested me, for a moment; when, alas!
+I discovered at the end of the cord, the body of my poor horse! who, in
+the last night of his master’s absence, had fallen a victim to the
+fever, which spares neither man, nor the patient steed. He was now being
+dragged away to his grave, and the pause I made brought me only the sad
+gratification of casting a look upon his remains.
+
+This is a serious loss to me, less on account of the exorbitant price of
+horses in these colonies, than from the extreme difficulty, or perhaps
+the impossibility of finding another, at any rate whatever. I had long
+waded through the mud before an opportunity offered of providing myself,
+and by mere chance, had, at length, been well suited; but I had scarcely
+brought my horse into condition fit for riding, before he was snatched
+from me, by what is often termed——the seasoning!
+
+It happens, however, that I shall not long feel this privation, as
+letters have, at length, arrived from head-quarters, containing orders
+for my removal from the coast of Guiana to St. Domingo. This is the
+arrangement to which I have been looking from my earliest arrival in
+these colonies; but on account of its being so long delayed, and my
+having received instructions for continuing here, I had begun to expect
+that the hospital staff, already at St. Domingo, had been found
+sufficient for the duties of that station, without recalling the
+detachment of the medical department serving upon this coast: but, by
+the letters which have now reached me, I learn that the direful malady
+of these regions has been sadly fatal among the hospital officers at St.
+Domingo; that, although the number of troops is considerably decreased,
+the medical attendants have suffered so extensively, that strong
+reinforcements are necessary, to enable the hospital department to do
+justice to the yet remaining multitudes of sick.
+
+In so far as this change of station will afford me an opportunity of
+seeing more of the Western World, I shall hail it with satisfaction; but
+my heart sorrows at the thought of treading in the steps of my lost
+brethren and colleagues,—men, with whom I have lived in habits of
+intimacy, and close friendship—partaking of the same perils, eating from
+the same dish, and reposing in the same cabin; and notwithstanding I
+neither regard the fever as contagious, nor feel the slightest personal
+apprehension of disease, still I cannot but experience a mournful
+depression, on being called to execute the urgent duties which I may
+have to encounter, upon the very spot where my comrades have fallen. Nor
+will it be without regret that I shall quit the hospitals of my own
+creating, which, after nearly twelve months of anxious exertion, I have
+brought into a state well fitted for affording the necessary
+accommodations to the sick.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XXIX.
+
+
+                                                     Demarara, March 29.
+
+I might have told you in my last letter that the eighth inst., the day
+after our return from our river excursion, was the Stadtholder’s
+birth-day, and consequently a day of festivity at Demarara. It was
+commemorated, by the Dutch officers, in our service, giving a splendid
+ball and supper at their barrack in the evening: all the best company of
+the colony was assembled on the occasion. The ball-room was extremely
+crowded; and although it was so intensely hot that it was matter of
+astonishment how any person could support the fatigue of dancing in it,
+still the ladies, feeble and languid as they commonly appear, so much
+enjoyed their favorite amusement, as not to retire to the supper-room
+until nearly two o’clock in the morning. The supper was elegant, and
+very handsomely served. It consisted of nearly 150 dishes, and was
+composed of the choice fruits and dainties of the colony. Unhappily the
+harmony of the festival was interrupted by the perverse conduct of one
+of the party, a _soi-disant patriot_, who, in the violence of his
+politics, opposed himself to the general will of the company, and
+refused to stand up to drink the health of the Stadtholder. The officers
+were highly incensed, at meeting with such an act of rudeness and
+insult, from one of their guests, and some of them proposed to toss the
+“patriot and his chair” out at window.
+
+We read with great satisfaction, the arrival of the ship Cotton-Planter
+at Portsmouth, after a passage of _a hundred and eight_ days from
+Demarara. Not having sooner heard of her, we had many anxious
+conjectures regarding her safety. She is one of the heavy Dutch vessels
+which fell into our possession on the capture of these colonies; and
+being a large ship, commodious for conveying troops across the Atlantic,
+we put a party of invalids, with ulcers, on board her, to be carried to
+England, under the immediate care of Mr. Beane, one of the mates of the
+general hospital; and subject to the command of the Hon. Captain De
+Courcy of the 93d regiment. Both from her form and bulk, we had expected
+that she might make a tedious passage; but, even with all the delays of
+our late ill-fated expedition in remembrance, our anticipations had not
+led us to imagine that, without some great disaster, the voyage could
+have been protracted to a period of nearly sixteen weeks.
+
+I have again been led to attend one of those humiliating scenes—a sale
+of _human_ merchandise; where I saw, what is here termed, a _prime
+cargo_ of three hundred _men_ and _women_, from the Gold Coast of
+Africa, all beings of our own species, exposed to public _vendue_, even
+as the herds of sheep and oxen in Smithfield market! But,
+notwithstanding I had been more than a year in the West Indies, I found
+that my European feelings were not so blunted, as to allow me to witness
+such a scene without experiencing the painful sensations, which
+naturally arise in the breast of an Englishman, upon seeing his
+fellow-creatures so miserably degraded.
+
+The poor blacks were not exposed to view upon a high stool, in order to
+be first examined, and then knocked down at the hammer, as at the sale
+at Berbische, but were divided into three great lots, according to their
+value; and, the price being fixed, the purchasers were left to select
+from whichever division they might prefer. Boys, from eleven to fourteen
+years of age, sold for 600 or 700 guilders: the price of the women was
+from 700 to 800; and of the men from 700 to 900; but a few of the
+strongest were valued somewhat higher. The agent who conducted the sale
+is a liberal man, possessed of humane sentiments, and a cultivated mind,
+but it is, unfortunately, _his calling_ to deal in human flesh. He very
+justly remarked to me, that, in following this occupation, it is
+necessary to _give an opiate_ to the finer feelings of nature.
+
+The coarse airs, and indecent vulgarity exhibited by a negress (who had
+probably been herself exposed in a similar manner), and a mulatto woman,
+her associate, towards some of these poor African girls, were equally
+striking and disgusting. Each of these cloudy nymphs had wheedled her
+lord to grant her the privilege of choosing a slave, to be the immediate
+attendant of her person; and in making their selection they used as
+little delicacy in touching, turning about, and trying their fellow
+blacks, as a butcher would in examining a pen of any other sort of
+cattle in an open market. Common decency was outraged in these
+proceedings, which grossly aggravated a scene that is at best cruelly
+humiliating.
+
+Shocked at what I had witnessed, and led into painful reflections upon
+the sadly chequered lot of our species, I made my retreat from this
+market of human woe, where not only the laws of decorum are openly
+invaded, and the rules of propriety set at defiance, but where all the
+social ties of our nature are broken down and bartered for gold.
+
+Amidst a scene, every way repugnant to humanity I was pleased to remark
+that a general sympathy was excited towards one particular family, whose
+appeals to the compassion of the multitude were not less powerful than
+their claims. This family consisted of a mother, three daughters, and a
+son. The parent, whose days of youth were past, was still a well-looking
+woman; the children appeared to be from fourteen to twenty years of age:
+they were very like the mother, and still more resembled each other,
+being all of distinguished face and figure, and decidedly the handsomest
+negroes of the cargo. Their distress, lest they should be separated, and
+sold to different masters, was so strongly depicted upon their
+countenances, and expressed in such lively, and impressive appeals, that
+the whole crowd were, impulsively, led to commiserate their sufferings;
+and, by universal consent, they were removed from the three great lots,
+and placed in a corner by themselves, in order that they might all be
+sold to the same master.
+
+Observing their extreme agitation, I was led particularly to notice
+their conduct, as influenced by the terror of being torn from each
+other, when I may truly say, that I witnessed a just and faithful
+representation of ... _the distressed mother_! and such as might bid
+defiance even to the powers of a Siddons! for the fears of the parent,
+lest she should be separated from her children, or these from each
+other, were anxious and watchful beyond all that imagination could
+paint, or the most vivid fancy portray. When any one approached their
+little group, or chanced to look towards them with the attentive eye of
+a purchaser, the children, in deep sobs, crouched nearer together, and
+the tearful mother, in agonizing impulse, instantly fell down before the
+spectator, bowed herself to the earth, and kissed his feet; then,
+alternately clinging to his legs, and pressing her children to her
+bosom, she fixed herself upon her knees, clasped her hands together,
+and, in anguish, cast up a look of humble petition, which might have
+found its way to the heart of a Caligula! Thus, in Nature’s truest
+language, did the afflicted parent urge her strongest appeal to his
+compassion, while she implored the purchaser, in dealing out to her the
+hard lot of slavery, to spare her the additional pang of being torn from
+her children—to forbear exposing her to the accumulated wretchedness
+which would arise from forcing those asunder, whom the all-wise Disposer
+of events had bound together by the most sacred ties of nature and
+affection.
+
+I mentioned in my former letter, when speaking of the phenomenon I had
+seen, in the person of a twisted and broken mulatto at Garden-Eden, that
+he was the property of Mr. Cuming, our very hospitable neighbour at the
+plantation Kitty, near to Fort William Frederic; where, I may now tell
+you that, since my return from “the falls,” I have had an opportunity of
+seeing two other singular aberrations from the common characteristics of
+our species, in the persons of a _white negro_, and a _piebald negress_.
+These are very uncommon objects, more particularly the latter, and it is
+remarkable that the three most striking examples of natural curiosity in
+the colony, or perhaps in the West Indies, should happen all to be the
+property of the same individual.
+
+The _white negro_, as he is denominated, is a boy about twelve years of
+age, who was born on board a ship, on the passage from Guinea, of
+perfectly white skin, although both his father and mother were jet
+black. He is even _whiter_, but I know not if I should say _fairer_,
+than Europeans, for it is a dull chalk-white, without the agreeable
+relief of the fine blue veins, and ruddy tints of an extra-tropical, or
+more especially of a British skin. In form and feature he strictly
+resembles other negroes, having the head and face long, with the hair
+short and curling like wool, the mouth large, with thick lips, and the
+nose broad and flat. His eyes are blue, the eyebrows and eyelashes
+white, as is likewise the hair, which from being slightly tinged with
+yellow, assumes, in a small degree, that particular hue, which is, more
+commonly than correctly, termed red. On looking at a strong light, his
+eyes are affected with a twinkling motion, such as is observed in the
+Albinos or Nyctalops; and from the axes of the eyes not accurately
+converging, a slight degree of squinting is perceptible. It would seem
+therefore that it is a variation which stands much in the same relation
+with respect to the negroes, as the Nyctalops with respect to ourselves.
+His skin being more than usually irritable, is highly susceptible of
+injury; it rises quickly into blisters, if he be exposed to the open
+rays of the sun.
+
+The case of the woman is even more singular than that of the boy; her
+peculiarity being the effect of an extraordinary change, and not of
+original conformation. She is about thirty years of age, and, until the
+last six or seven years, was of completely sable skin, differing in no
+respect from other negroes; nor do her form or features now offer any
+thing remarkable, but, from the profoundest black, her surface is
+growing perfectly white. She is of good figure, has been always regarded
+as having a strong and healthy constitution, and, for many years, has
+been employed as a washerwoman in Mr. Cuming’s family.
+
+No probable cause is known, or even suggested, for the change, but about
+five or six years ago, some white spots appeared upon her extremities,
+and, from that time, she has been gradually losing the natural blackness
+of her surface.
+
+This uncommon change commenced in the parts most remote from the great
+organ of circulation, and is slowly, though regularly, proceeding
+towards the parts nearer to the heart. The feet, hands, legs, and arms,
+have already lost their sable hue, and are even whiter than those of an
+European. Her nose and ears are also white, and some patches are
+spreading upon the face, neck, and bosom; but her body yet remains
+entirely black; and although this extraordinary conversion seems to be
+progressively advancing, if it proceed as slowly as it has hitherto
+done, it may be still several years before the whole of the dark
+colouring be removed. Her hair and eyes retain their original blackness,
+and have not yet any appearance of participating in the change.
+
+It is remarkable that the cuticle of the parts which have grown white,
+like the pale skin of the boy just mentioned, is very subject to rise
+into blisters upon being exposed to the sun, while no such effect is
+produced upon the parts which continue dark.
+
+The woman is still in good health, and appears to be quite free from
+disease; as she was, at the time this peculiar change began; but she is
+extremely low and dejected concerning this event, which she regards as
+the severest evil that could have befallen her. She has a great dislike
+to be seen, or to have questions asked her, more particularly by
+strangers, When sent for, that I might look at her, she came to me with
+reluctance, exhibited strong marks of agitation while she remained, and
+went away in tears. She is the wife of one of Mr. Cuming’s slaves, and
+has had several children, who differ in no respect from the offspring of
+other negroes.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XXX.
+
+
+                                               Demarara, April 19, 1797.
+
+You will not be surprised to hear that, although we are removed from the
+busy metropolis of England, and all the gay scenes and adventures
+indicated in the _jeux d’esprit_, _bon mots_, _doubles entendres_, and
+the many idly amusing histories which daily swell the columns of the
+newspapers, we are not without our little cabals and intrigues, and
+anecdotes, and _particular heads_ of news, which, in the absence of more
+weighty occurrences, often acquire a degree of importance they do not
+merit, and become the subjects of general conversation and remark. At
+present the prevailing topic is not devoid of interest. It relates to a
+mulatto woman called Princess Changuion, regarding whom a degree of
+concern has been excited, in consequence of a proclamation which has
+lately appeared in the Essequibo Gazette, and which has called forth a
+sense of compassion, and of party feeling in her behalf.
+
+She is a free mulatto, and was lately the favored dulcinea of a person
+high in office: circumstances having rendered her name the general theme
+of the day, her crimes, her merits, and her sufferings are warmly
+canvassed in every society, and even those who never saw, nor heard of
+her before, would appear, from their confident remarks, to be intimately
+acquainted with every particular of her history and conduct. It has been
+thought that in consequence of having committed an offence, which
+certainly would not appear to be of the first magnitude, the arm of
+power has been too severely extended towards her; and from the sentence
+seeming to imply prejudice, it is even hinted that private, or party
+pique, has had its influence in deciding the quota of punishment:
+indeed, if loud whisper may be credited, her persecutors have been
+exasperated against her, in proportion as others have betrayed towards
+her situation feelings of compassion.
+
+As the tale is told, some dispute had arisen between a Dutch dame, and
+this yellow _princess_, in which the white lady alleged an unjust
+accusation against the mulatto, and otherwise so ill treated her as to
+provoke her to hold up her hand in a menacing manner; for which most
+heinous offence, the poor Changuion has been subjected to an arbitrary
+confinement, and sentenced to be further punished with a severe
+flogging—burning in the forehead—the loss of an ear—and banishment! This
+you will readily perceive, was dealing out, to a person in freedom, the
+cruel treatment practised upon slaves, and for no better reason, than
+because nature had given a yellow tint to her skin. The undue severity
+used towards her has had the effect of animating the benevolent
+exertions of those who regard her as a victim of prejudice, and it being
+known that in some countries not only law and justice, but even despotic
+authority might be softened by gold, due inquiries were made, and it was
+understood that a _thousand guilders_, properly employed, might
+mitigate, if not efface the decree. But, from the influence of a power
+opposed to the party, who thus interested themselves in the cause of
+humanity, the chastisement was ordered to be inflicted, at the very
+moment when the thousand guilders were expected to be taken as the price
+of her release. Still it happened that the iron arm of despotism was
+disappointed of its blow; for, in the course of the night, preceding the
+morning when this unhappy female was to have been led out to punishment,
+she contrived to effect her escape from confinement; and it is
+whispered, in a certain circle, that she will probably find a place of
+concealment, until she can meet with an opportunity of executing the
+latter part of her sentence by _self_-banishment.
+
+You will be pleased to know that the climate upon this coast has lately
+become quite salubrious, and that our sick list has rapidly decreased,
+in consequence of great numbers of patients being discharged, and but
+few admitted. I may also remark that we have found the month of March
+the most pleasant, as well as the most healthy season of the year: not
+only has the weather been drier, the breeze stronger, and the air
+cooler, but we have been less subject to prickly heat, and less annoyed
+with musquitoes. Happily the wings of these tormenting insects have not
+been able to support their light bodies against the increased strength
+of the breeze. The roads have likewise been dry, and peculiarly pleasant
+for travelling, which in these colonies is no trifling consideration;
+for, in consequence of their being low, and flat, and muddy, only a
+moderate fall of rain leaves the highways deep in wet, and almost
+impassable.
+
+Although the month of March has been the driest of all the twelve, some
+parts of October, November, and February were likewise very fine, and
+the muddy roads were then, also, dry and smooth.
+
+After long waiting, I may at last announce to you that a ship is come
+in, direct from England; by which we are furnished with an ample supply
+of hospital dresses, bedding, and other stores, for the accommodation of
+the sick. The arrival of these things is rather late, it must be
+confessed; but it will afford me the satisfaction of leaving the
+department well provided, and free from the many inconveniences, to
+which it has been, necessarily, exposed while under my direction.
+
+A copy has also reached my hand of the new regulations, for improving
+the situation of regimental surgeons, by doing away their
+medicine-money, and other perquisites, and consolidating their pay into
+a regular and specific sum: likewise for establishing their rank, and
+putting them upon a footing with military officers, in respect to
+quarters and field-allowances. This is an important and well-advised
+arrangement, and does honor to its projector. Indeed it is matter of
+surprise that the system of granting medicine-money, and other
+perquisites, should have been so long continued, since it not only
+offered an inadequate reward, but held out encouragement to a neglect of
+duty, by lessening the emoluments of the surgeon, in proportion as he
+supplied the requisite means to the sick.
+
+But I am sorry to remark, that the new regulation, excellent as it is,
+from being limited to regimental surgeons, stops short of its effect. To
+have rendered it complete in its operation, it should have extended
+further, and have defined the rank of the different officers of the
+hospital staff: thus it might have become a general, and standard rule
+for the whole medical body; and have prevented many cavillings, and
+unpleasant occurrences on service; while it would have given the
+department the respectability that is due to it, and have fixed its
+importance among military men. As it now stands, it is manifestly
+defective, from giving to a regimental surgeon a degree of rank, of
+which it leaves him again divested, upon his receiving promotion to the
+staff. The regulation might also have gone still further, with
+additional benefit, and have fixed the title as well as the rank of the
+various medical appointments, for, at present, without a due regard to
+the military system, the department is branching out into multiplied
+divisions, devoid of the appropriate distinctions of rank and duty.
+
+It would perhaps be a task, which might puzzle the whole war-office,
+with the army medical board included, to discriminate between the
+endless ramifications and subdivisions which are made to display
+themselves in the army medical code; more especially with respect to the
+higher appointments, under all the various degrees of physicians and
+surgeons, and deputies and assistants, and _heads_ and _principals_—such
+as, “physician-general, surgeon-general, inspector-general of regimental
+hospitals, inspector-general of hospitals, deputy inspector-general of
+hospitals, assistant inspector-general of hospitals, director of
+hospitals, inspector of hospitals, assistant inspector of hospitals,
+field inspector of hospitals, head of hospitals, principal medical
+officer of hospitals[3], &c. &c. &c.”
+
+By a late arrival from head-quarters, we learn that the commander in
+chief has sailed, with the expedition recently fitted out at Martinique,
+and is supposed to be bound to Porto Rico. We hope soon to ascertain its
+destination, by receiving happy tidings of its issue.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XXXI.
+
+
+                                                     Demarara, April 23.
+
+On this day last year my foot first pressed the soil of South America;
+and when I take a retrospect of all that has passed; review the trials
+which I have had to sustain; and reflect what numbers have perished
+around me, I feel highly sensible how much I have cause of thankfulness,
+in being still blessed with health and strength, to perform the various
+duties of my appointment.
+
+With much anxiety I look to St. Domingo, and it would be a peculiar
+satisfaction to me, could I know that my comrades upon that station have
+arrived as happily at the end of the first year as myself: but, from
+reports of the dreadful fatality in that quarter, I tremble for the fate
+of my friends; and, being now upon the eve of joining them, the idea
+that they may have fallen among the many victims of that inhospitable
+region, weighs upon my heart in accumulated heaviness.
+
+The date of my letter also reminds me, that at this time, last year, the
+wet season was setting in upon the coast of Guiana. This year, we had a
+considerable fall of rain, about the beginning of the present month,
+from which many imagined it to be commencing; but the showers proved to
+be only those of a lunar period, and the weather has since been dry and
+pleasant.
+
+The rainy season usually begins somewhat earlier in these colonies, than
+in the islands: in the dry months, also, this coast is more frequently
+refreshed with showers. These mostly occur about the periods of
+spring-tides, and are not wholly suspended even in the arid month of
+March: so that instead of suffering from long-continued drought, no part
+of the year can be considered as a dry season, otherwise than
+comparatively with those months which are almost incessantly wet.
+
+With only the same proportion of rain, the coast of Guiana, from the
+flatness of the country, and the nature of the soil, will appear to be
+less dry, than the islands, where the land is more hilly and irregular,
+and so disposed as to favor either the percolation, or the passing off
+of the water. Here we have one wide and level surface of clay, and the
+water that falls lies upon the roads, and the fields, until the thirsty
+atmosphere drinks it all up again; hence the wet, from every shower,
+continues to be visible long after it has reached the ground, or it
+remains to be increased by new torrents.
+
+From this circumstance, strangers arriving here from Europe, or the
+islands, particularly if they should expect a total absence of showers
+during the dry months, might be led to imagine that, in these colonies,
+there is only one continued wet season throughout the year.
+
+Of late I have been honored with visits from several of the medical
+gentlemen of the colony, with a view of ascertaining the effect of the
+remedies used in the military hospitals, and particularly of mercury, in
+the yellow fever.
+
+Among them was Dr. E. from whose conversation and remarks I derived
+peculiar gratification. He is a man of talents and observation, and has
+profited of an extensive experience. In speaking of the yellow fever, he
+said that the medical men, who reside in the interior of the islands and
+settlements of the West Indies, have scarcely a better opportunity of
+knowing the real character of that disease, than those “who practise
+medicine in the country villages of England.” He considers those only to
+be well acquainted with this dreadful malady, who have the opportunity
+of seeing it among Europeans, or Americans newly arrived within the
+tropics. It had been his lot to witness it but too frequently, from
+being employed among the sailors of the trading vessels upon the river;
+and it appeared that he had observed with accuracy, and made himself
+well acquainted with the nature of the disease.
+
+The doctor’s experience had taught him to place very little reliance
+upon bark, mercury, or any of the remedies commonly employed; but he
+thought that he had witnessed the most decided benefit from the Indian
+method of using hot and cold bathing; and he stated, that, where the hot
+bath could not be conveniently provided, he had found equal advantage
+from ordering the head and neck to lie washed with hot water, and
+immediately afterwards dashing three or four buckets of cold water upon
+the patient. “The very sudden relief obtained from this remedy,” added
+the doctor, “is often equally astonishing and effectual.”
+
+I have lately taken a ride to make some visits at Mahaica, and at
+various estates upon the coast; and, in the course of my excursion, I
+waited upon Mr. Mackenzie, one of my fellow-travellers upon our late
+expedition up the river; at whose residence I had the high gratification
+of exploring a rich garden of herbs, plants, flowers, and fruits.
+
+It may surprise you to know that in a country where vegetation is so
+rapid, and so much under control, as upon this prolific coast, a
+well-cultivated garden should be so extremely rare, as to appear quite a
+novelty: but it too commonly happens that those who court the smiles of
+fortune, by planting the tropical fields, attend only to the cultivation
+of sugar, coffee, and cotton, which are often seen growing up to the
+very doorway, or almost creeping in at the windows of the dwelling, not
+the smallest spot being reserved for garden, pleasure-ground, or
+orchard. But the intelligent and accomplished proprietor of Lusignan has
+a mind superior to the little penuriousness which, neglecting the
+agreeable and ornamental, devotes only to the lucrative, and sacrifices
+the common comforts of life to the sole purpose of amassing a few
+additional dollars. Here the cotton is kept at a proper distance from
+the house, and the immediate environs are laid out in gardens, or
+enriched with fruits, shrubs, and other useful, or decorative trees.
+Around the dwelling luxuriate, in a generous soil, the fruitful
+bread-tree, the cucumber-tree, the cocoa-nut, the stately
+mountain-cabbage, the grenadillo, the water-lemon, grapes of different
+species, mangos, figs, cherries, almonds, star-apples, pines, and a
+multitude of other fruits; together with a great variety of the more
+rare, and beautiful plants and flowers of these regions.
+
+All the advantages of an European garden it was here proved may be
+equalled, or far exceeded in this bountiful soil, which so rapidly, and
+abundantly returns the labour bestowed upon it. A long walk, finely
+shaded with grenadillos, the fruit of which hung in profusion over our
+heads, had been planted only a few months before. The young shoots of
+figtrees, whose parent branches are cut away every year, were quite
+loaded with fruit, and the grapes hung, in heavy clusters, from single
+stems; all the other parts of the vines being pruned away. Indeed, so
+prolific are the plants, and so luxuriant their growth, that to ensure
+an abundant produce it seems only necessary to commit seeds and shoots
+to the earth, and to cut out, from time to time, the greater part of the
+wood of the trees.
+
+Amidst the flowers I observed many that were of far more pleasant odour
+than those I had commonly met with in this country, and which had led me
+to believe that nature had very sparingly scattered her perfumes, among
+the plants of this coast: if, therefore, I had not chanced to see the
+garden I am speaking of, I might have left the colonies, impressed with
+an idea that the flowers of Guiana were wholly devoid of that delicious
+fragrance, for which those of Europe are so highly esteemed.
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXII.
+
+
+                                                        Demarara, April.
+
+The commandant having required me to wait the reply of the commander in
+chief, to a letter upon the subject of our recall from this station, I
+have availed myself of the interval, to make out a complete set of the
+returns and accounts of the whole hospital department, from the date of
+our arrival upon this coast; and having toiled at official papers for
+several weeks, with all the application of an office clerk, I feel that
+I cannot better devote my remaining leisure, than in transcribing for
+your eye a few notes which I have collected, from time to time, upon the
+general subject of these colonies.
+
+To an intelligent and inquiring mind, like yours, every thing that
+concerns mankind, and the countries we inhabit, must be strongly
+interesting: the general appearance of the territory—the salubrity of
+the air—the common productions, and the returns of produce—the price of
+provisions—the wages of labour—the laws and form of government—the
+distribution of property, and the administration of justice, cannot fail
+to be questions of importance; and hence, although I have not had an
+opportunity of acquiring minute or extensive information upon these
+subjects, I offer no apology for laying before you the few observations
+which I have been able to make, assured that you will not deem them
+wholly devoid of interest.
+
+An unfavorable prejudice has been imbibed respecting the climate upon
+this coast; and a general opinion prevails, as well in the West India
+islands as in Europe, that these settlements are very unhealthy: but,
+however the fact may stand, upon a comparison with the genial climate of
+a portion of Europe, it is certainly incorrect with respect to the
+neighbouring islands. Probably it is a prejudice that dates its origin
+from the earliest cultivation of the colonies; being formed either from
+a superficial view of the peculiar surface of the land; or in
+consequence of sickness having prevailed among the settlers, at the time
+of first clearing the soil.
+
+Low and flat countries are usually unpropitious to the health of man;
+but the insalubrity does not result as a necessary consequence of this
+form of the land: other circumstances are required: for, unless these
+conspire, or, having conspired, if they be removed, the fact no longer
+exists. A level country badly cleared, not well drained, and only
+partially improved, will, no doubt, be unhealthy: but a district so well
+cultivated as Demarara, will not be sickly, only because it is low. A
+broken or mountainous territory may preserve its salubrity in great
+measure from its form, or the particular exposure of its irregular
+surface: but a flat soil ever demands the aid of industry; and can only
+be made healthy by unceasing toil: and, herein, is afforded a beautiful
+and striking example of the all-providing care of Nature: she has made
+labour necessary to the well-being of man; and she causes the earth to
+bestow health as the consequence of his toil; but if he neglect the
+salutary exertions required, she compels the very fields, not only to
+reproach his indolence, but to punish him with sickness. She has gone
+even further; for, these fields which, bereft of his health-inspiring
+toil, will destroy him, she has particularly empowered to reward him
+with plenty and riches, if he deny them not the attentions which she
+dictates for the preservation of his health.
+
+You will have collected some knowledge of the general appearance, and
+the state of cultivation of this coast, from the desultory remarks I
+have already sent you; but as I find a few words upon these subjects,
+among my general notes, I shall transcribe them, with the others, and
+you may read them, or not, as suits your leisure. I have told you that
+on approaching these colonies from the sea, the land is not visible,
+until you come very near to the shore. The tops of trees only are seen;
+which appear to be growing out of the ocean. Before the coast was
+brought into a state of culture, the forest reached nearly to the verge
+of the water, and from the land being low, it was frequently overflowed
+by the tides. Now, there is a cultivated territory, a mile and a half in
+depth, between the ocean and the forest; but this is so entirely flat,
+as to escape the eye, and on sailing towards the coast, the trees still
+look as if they were growing within the margin of the sea.
+
+Perhaps none but the plodding industrious Hollander would have attempted
+to clear such a country: where wood and water concealed every appearance
+of the land, and seemed to bid defiance to all the powers of
+cultivation. Nor indeed were the early labours of the first settlers
+directed to this part of the coast. They sailed far up the rivers, and
+established the settlements upon their more elevated banks, at a
+distance remote from the sea; not venturing to devote their industry to
+the immediate borders of the ocean, until they were prompted to it by
+the enterprise of more adventurous planters from the British islands.
+
+The whole of the territory now brought into cultivation upon the coast,
+is _made_-land. It has been placed—I had almost said created, by the
+hand of man; and is preserved to his use, only by constant toil.
+Numerous ditches and canals are cut to drain the water from the common
+surface; and the land that is planted, is merely the mud and clay thrown
+out of these channels.
+
+An estate, or plantation, usually consists of a long piece of flat land,
+about a quarter of a mile in width, and a mile and half in depth,
+running back from the sea to the woods. It is bordered by wide ditches,
+traversed by numbers of others, and thus formed into many separate
+divisions, somewhat resembling an assemblage of beds; such as are
+usually made in our English gardens, for the planting of asparagus.
+
+A deep bank of earth, called a dyke, is thrown up in front, to defend
+the estate from the encroachments of the sea; and a similar bank is
+raised at the back, to prevent it from being inundated by the waters,
+which overspread the flat surface of the forest. The ditches unite by
+frequent intersections, and form ready communications with the sea. It
+is one of the regular duties of the estate, thoroughly to scour out
+these trenches every year; when the mud that is removed, makes a coating
+of manure, and serves to raise, while it enriches the soil; which from
+cultivation, from the falling of heavy rains, and from the flowing of
+the tides in the numerous channels around it, were it not for this
+supply, would soon wear to a level, and be again a prey to the waters.
+
+From a number of these estates lying contiguous to each other, the coast
+is formed into an open, though narrow, territory; and the border of the
+sea is seen spreading into one splendid cotton-field, a mile and half
+deep, and of nearly seventy miles extent. The surface being quite level,
+this immense tract of cultivated land opens at once to the eye, and the
+scene is not less rich than novel. Perhaps a plain so spacious, a soil
+so fertile, and a produce so abundant, cannot be met with in any other
+country.
+
+Like the earth in cultivation, that which forms the public roads is only
+the mud and clay procured from the ditches which skirt them. They are of
+course flat, like the rest of the territory, and running at the bottom,
+or along the sides of the estates, they form straight lines, and right
+angles, throughout the whole extent of the plantations, interrupted only
+by the wooden bridges which cross the numerous ditches and canals.
+
+In allotting the land, a certain width of it between each two estates,
+is, with much wisdom, reserved to the settlement, in order to form what
+are here termed colony-paths. These not only serve as common ways, from
+the front to the back of every plantation, but in each of them is cut a
+public canal, which runs from the sea, throughout the whole depth of the
+cultivated land, to the forest. By this provision many useful purposes
+are answered; general convenience is promoted; and each individual
+planter is benefited.
+
+The colony-path not only offers itself as a common road, from the sea to
+the Bush, but preserves a free communication for any future settlers,
+who may engage in the culture of land at the back of the present
+estates; while the canal, by means of flood-gates, lets off to the
+ocean, the water that lodges in the forest, and prevents it from
+overflowing the cultivated fields; bringing at the same time, a supply
+of fresh water, for the use of the negroes and the cattle; and affording
+to the planters a ready means of conveying the produce of their estates
+to the sea.
+
+Although the general face of the colonies be such as to convey an
+unfavorable impression, the peculiar mode of cultivation protects them
+from the ills, which, upon a first view of the soil, might seem to be
+threatened. From the frequent use of the hoe, in clearing the crops,
+scarcely a weed is left to grow up and decay; from the numerous
+channels, which intersect each other, the rain that falls is carried
+off, without becoming stagnant; from the flowing of the tide, every
+thing noxious, brought to the ditches, is speedily removed; and from an
+annual scouring, the channels are kept peculiarly free from impurities:
+hence, notwithstanding its flatness, the land which is brought into
+cultivation is not suffered to grow swampy; no offensive accumulation is
+formed; nor does the mud-impregnated water of the ditches remain to grow
+putrid, and emit unhealthy vapours. The earth is always fresh; the
+channels are free; and the waters frequently renewed; it consequently
+follows that the evils, which commonly proceed from low and neglected
+ground, are in a great measure prevented.
+
+When I mentioned as one of the advantages of the public canals, that
+they furnish a supply for the slaves and the cattle, I might have added,
+that the paucity of good water is one of the greatest inconveniences
+that is known in these colonies; for although the canals bring in plenty
+that is fresh, it is so strongly impregnated with infused leaves, and
+other vegetable matters, in consequence of coming from the forest, that
+it is very unpleasant, both to the eye and the palate, and as the
+negroes express it, “_no good for backra_,” although these poor beings
+are, themselves, obliged to share it with the cattle.
+
+The river water is brackish to the distance of many miles from the
+coast: springs there are none; and what might be procured by wells could
+not be used. Under these circumstances, the expedient of preserving the
+offerings from the clouds naturally suggested itself; and accordingly,
+tanks, or cisterns, have been constructed for this purpose at almost
+every estate. Some families put the rain-water into large earthen jars,
+in which, with much care, it is kept good, during the whole period of
+the dry season. Those who are not possessed of either jars, or cisterns,
+are obliged to content themselves with the strongly macerated infusion
+of the forests, called “bush-water;” or to send parties many miles, with
+boats and casks, to obtain fresh water from a remote part of the river,
+or from some of its tributary streams.
+
+From the nature of the land, the crops upon this coast are very
+abundant, and are far more regularly productive, than in any others of
+our settlements in the West Indies. These colonies likewise possess the
+great advantage of being free from hurricanes and earthquakes, and from
+that mischievous insect, the borer, which in the islands so often
+destroys the canes. They are also exempt from great droughts, which are
+so frequently injurious to the islands, and, in consequence of being
+open to the breeze, they are less liable to frequent and sudden changes
+of temperature: neither hills, nor rocks, nor woods offer any impediment
+to the trade winds, which come to them from the ocean, and are scarcely
+ever absent throughout the whole annual circle.
+
+The year is commonly divided into two wet and two dry seasons. The long
+wet season begins in April, declines in August, and ceases in September.
+The roads are then dry, and the weather fine until the middle of
+November; when the short wet season sets in, and continues till January.
+From the middle of that month until the latter end of April, the weather
+is dry, the atmosphere clear and pure, and the climate genial. The roads
+are then good, the breeze is powerful and steady, the air comparatively
+cool, and the temperature subject to little variation.
+
+In these colonies laws are made, and acts passed by the governor and
+council; the governor having two votes.
+
+The members of council are chosen by keizers, or electors; these being
+appointed by the inhabitants; each inhabitant, possessed of property, to
+the amount of six hundred guilders per annum, being entitled to a vote.
+
+To qualify a person for being elected a member of council, it is
+requisite that he be a freeholder, and a protestant: that he shall have
+resided three years in the colony; and that he understand the Dutch
+language.
+
+The council framing laws, is called a court of policy: this court is of
+a mixed form, resembling a combination of the house of assembly, and the
+governor and council of the British colonies.
+
+The court of justice, like the legislative and executive, is composed of
+the governor, and of counsellors elected by the keizers. This court
+takes cognizance of all civil and criminal causes, and admits of no
+appeal, except to the sovereign.
+
+A commissary court is established for the adjustment of petty offences,
+and for the decision of all questions of property below the value of 600
+guilders. This court consists of two members of the court of justice,
+who are appointed in rotation, the governor nominally presiding. The
+fiscal is the active officer of this court. It is his duty to announce,
+or impose the fines; but he has no power to levy them. If they be
+resisted, he serves the parties with a citation, and they appeal to the
+commissary court.
+
+The fiscal is the great law officer, and may be considered as the
+attorney and solicitor general of the colony. His powers and privileges
+are very considerable, and his influence, of course, extensive.
+
+The country is divided into a certain number of districts, with a
+burgher captain appointed to each, on whom devolves the more immediate
+execution of the public regulations, whether made for the particular
+convenience of the respective districts, or for the common benefit of
+the colony at large.
+
+It is a regulation—or law of the colony, that each planter shall keep in
+repair that portion of the public road, together with its bridges, which
+crosses or passes at the end of his own estate. But instead of
+overseers, or surveyors of the road being appointed, it is made the duty
+of the fiscal, to travel throughout the colony, twice in every year, for
+the express purpose of inspecting the roads and bridges, and imposing
+fines upon the owners of such as are not found to be in good repair.
+
+In these tours of inspection the law requires that he shall be
+accompanied by a burgher officer, and a clerk from the government
+secretary’s office; the former to approve, the latter to witness such
+approval, and to note the fines imposed. This control seems to be highly
+necessary, as certain proportions of these fines become the perquisite
+of the fiscal, and serve to enrich his own purse.
+
+The planters, upon receiving notice of the fines, thus levied, have the
+privilege of resisting the payment of them: in which case the fiscal
+refers the question to the commissary court, and himself pleads the
+cause, as the principal law officer of the colony. But it frequently
+happens, that by offering a third, or a half of the fine, the affair is
+compromised—the fiscal silenced—his pocket satisfied; and all further
+appeal to the court of justice prevented.
+
+The regulation has, however, the effect of keeping the public roads in
+very excellent repair; for, knowing how very improbable it is, that the
+least defect can escape the penetrating and interested eye of the
+fiscal, each planter is particularly attentive to the highways and the
+bridges[4].
+
+All grants of land, in these colonies, are made from the States General
+of the United Provinces; and they commonly consist of lots, either of
+250, or 500 acres, laid out in the abovementioned regular form, which is
+favored by the situation, and flatness of the land. In front, towards
+the sea, each estate is about 1200 Dutch[5] feet in width; and in
+length, back from the sea into the forest, or Bush, 9000 feet. In
+Berbische many of the grants are 1800 feet wide, and 12,000 feet deep.
+On granting the land it is stipulated that the plantation shall be
+advanced to a certain state of cultivation by a given period, under the
+penalty of being forfeited at the expiration of that term, if not
+improved to the extent specified; and by way of encouragement to the
+planter, a second depth, further into the forest, of equal extent, and
+immediately at the back of the other, is usually granted to the person
+who holds the first depth from the sea, so soon as it shall be
+certified, by the two neighbouring planters, that two-thirds of the
+first grant are brought into good cultivation, and that the new grant
+will not be in anywise injurious to them. Some gentlemen are now in
+possession of these double plantations of 18,000 feet; but, for the most
+part, only the single estates of 9000 feet are yet made obedient to the
+hoe.
+
+Thus you will perceive, that these rich colonies are merely a narrow
+strip of land, upon the margin of the Atlantic Ocean, bounded by a deep
+forest, which extends across the whole continent to the Pacific Ocean.
+
+Until within the last twelve or fifteen years, scarcely any plantations
+were formed upon the coast. It is since this period that English
+enterprise has taught the plodding Hollander that he had overlooked his
+best interests, in not bestowing his industry upon the immediate verge
+of the ocean; and the seashore already exhibits one rich and fertile
+field, throughout nearly the whole extent, from the river Demarara to
+the river Berbische.
+
+It is probable that, in the course of a few years, the borders of the
+rivers will be totally abandoned, and, instead of being enriched with
+coffee and sugar, will be left to relapse into their primeval state. In
+such event a very short time would efface every mark of human industry,
+and it would be difficult to discover that the arm of man had ever
+extended thither; for so rapid is the progress of vegetation, that the
+land is only held subservient to useful purposes by the unremitted toil
+of slaves, which being once withdrawn, it would speedily revert to its
+original wildness, and again become a part of one vast forest.
+
+The colony of Berbische was the first settled; but that of Demarara has
+proceeded with far the most rapid improvement. The estates now in
+cultivation upon the sea-coast, from the Demarara river to the boundary
+of the colony of Berbische, are one hundred and sixteen; all producing
+cotton, except the “Kitty” belonging to Mr. T. Cuming, which has been
+recently planted with sugar[6]. This part of the colony is divided into
+four districts, the burgher captains, presiding over which, are all
+British planters, viz. Mr. Lochland Cuming, Mr. Rogers, Mr. Telfer, and
+Mr. Sutherland.
+
+It is scarcely necessary to remark that coffee, cotton, and sugar are
+the great, and almost only commercial productions of the colony. The
+average produce of the 80 best cotton estates, is calculated at from
+50,000 lb. to 60,000 lb. weight, each, of cotton per annum. In the
+cultivation of this plant _one prime negro_ is considered as sufficient
+stock for _two acres_ of land. The average number of cotton bushes,
+planted upon an acre, is six hundred. Each bush is calculated to produce
+eight ounces of cotton; and the average price of the article, sold in
+the colony, is estimated at fifteen stivers per pound.
+
+The requisite proportion of stock, for an estate cultivated with coffee,
+is _two negroes_ to _three acres_ of land. The number of coffee bushes
+usually planted is four hundred and fifty per acre. Each bush is
+calculated to produce 1½ lb. of coffee; and the average price, when sold
+in the colony, is from seven to eight stivers per pound.
+
+The cultivation of sugar, is the most expensive, and requires
+considerably the greatest proportion of stock, _one prime negro_ being
+necessary to _every acre_ of land. The average return of an estate,
+planted with sugar, is 50_l._ sterling per acre, being 2000 lb. weight
+of sugar at four-pence per pound, and rum in proportion.
+
+The domestic fowls and animals seen in these colonies are the same as
+those of Europe; but we find that the Moscovy duck, and the Guinea fowl
+are much more commonly used than in England. Very few of the birds, or
+beasts of the surrounding woods, have yet been domesticated, and these,
+not for the purpose of utility, but amusement: the monkey and parrot
+tribes being almost the only species seen about the houses. The horse,
+the sheep, the dog, and the other animals which are usually associated
+with the family circle, and made subservient to man, are not the native
+inhabitants of these forests; but, possibly, there may be others which
+might be brought into social habits, and made to contribute to our
+wants. Domestic birds it is known there are; for we occasionally see, in
+that state, the native ducks of the rivers, and what is here called the
+powys, or turkey of the woods, which is a more stately bird, and nearly
+as large as the common turkey of Europe.
+
+With respect to the natural history of the country, a wider field seems
+to be opened in botany and zoology, than in mineralogy; for while the
+animal and vegetable worlds are abundantly stored, scarcely a stone or a
+pebble can be found in any part of the colonies yet cultivated. I lament
+exceedingly that my occupations will not allow me more time to devote to
+these subjects; and, on this ground, I have particularly to regret being
+separated from my baggage, having left on board the Lord Sheffield two
+boxes of books, the loss of which I feel very severely.
+
+Delightful as the study is, perhaps no extensive progress can be
+expected to be made in the different branches of the natural history of
+the country, so long as it shall continue to be visited only from views
+of pecuniary gain. Even the enthusiasm which attaches to new
+discoveries, can induce but few to toil in such a climate, in the mere
+pursuits of science; and, accordingly, we see that it is the object of
+those, who do hazard their persons, to devote themselves to the means of
+acquiring a competent fortune, to enable them to retire, as speedily as
+possible, to enjoy the fruits of it in a more temperate atmosphere.
+
+It is not only with excessive heat and disease that those who visit
+these regions have to contend! The extreme annoyance, from insects and
+reptiles is still more severe, to many persons, than the exhausting
+warmth of the climate. In truth I may say it is so to myself; for the
+general buzzing, the biting, stinging, creeping, and crawling of these
+tormenting objects, distress me far more than the temperature, or any
+apprehension of disease. We are bitten, stung, or overrun by day and by
+night, and exposed to incessant pain and discomfort, unless constantly
+upon the watch, or carefully protected by some defensive covering; being
+perpetually beset with myriads of flies, ants, musquitoes, cockroaches,
+lizards, Jack Spaniards[7], fireflies, centipedes, &c. &c.; which, in
+addition to their bites and stings, fly in our faces, crawl about our
+persons, and make an intolerable buzzing in our ears. In an evening, and
+particularly after rain, the confused noise of these humming hosts is
+peculiarly disagreeable. It conveys the idea of breathing in an
+atmosphere of sounds, or amidst a great and animated hive, where every
+created insect joins in full chorus—the enormous frog of the country
+croaking the bass, in a voice which resembles the loud bellowings of an
+ox.
+
+From the great fertility of the soil; from the uninterrupted regularity
+of the crops, and their abundant produce; and from the immense extent of
+territory capable of being brought into cultivation, these colonies may
+be regarded as the most valuable capture which has been made during the
+war, and perhaps that which it might be most to the advantage of England
+to preserve, to herself, upon the return of peace.
+
+The number of slaves, at this period, in the united colony of Essequibo
+and Demarara, is about fifty-five thousand[8]. The greatest number
+possessed by an individual is nearly 2000. These are the property of
+Mynheer Boode, a planter living upon the western coast of the Demarara
+river; a man of immense fortune, who is said to have been originally a
+drum-boy, in the Dutch service, and to have come to this colony from
+Surinam, where he had arrived with the troops from Holland. Here, by a
+steady perseverance in successful industry, he has been enabled to
+acquire a fortune, which is represented as princely indeed; it being
+said to amount to nearly 50,000_l._ sterling, per annum.
+
+Of the wages of daily labour it is difficult to speak, with any degree
+of accuracy, in a country where the work is done by slaves. I have
+already mentioned an instance of the exorbiant price of wages among the
+labouring class of carpenters, and this may serve as a specimen of the
+rate of hire given to others. The lower ranks of white people are mostly
+mechanics, or artisans, and these obtain high and extravagant wages in
+all parts of the West Indies. White labouring peasants, or husbandmen,
+are here unknown. The mulattoes, like wise, are for the most part bred
+to some handicraft employment, and very few of them are seen to toil
+their daily round in the field: the cultivating of the land, therefore,
+and all the menial, and lower degrees of labour, are performed by the
+negro slaves, who are themselves, equally with the implements of their
+toil, the sole and disposable property of their masters; wherefore, in
+order to ascertain the wages of labour, it would be necessary to
+calculate the cost of the slave, his provisions, and clothing, the price
+of the tools he uses, the risk of sickness, and of casualties, and the
+interest of money; and thence to draw the ratio of expenditure, or the
+sum invested to procure his daily toil.
+
+But it sometimes happens that persons buy slaves, who have neither land
+for them to cultivate, nor any other means of employing them: they let
+them out therefore to hire, by the month or the year. Some even purchase
+negroes expressly for this purpose; and lay the foundation of their
+fortunes by selling the toil of Africans, who are thus made to sweat
+drops of gold for their owners, under the lash of other masters. The
+profit obtained from the labour of a slave, who costs about eighty
+pounds, is usually from twenty to twenty-two guineas per annum, all
+expense of food, and of medicines when sick, being defrayed, throughout
+the term for which he is engaged, by the person who hires him.
+
+Upon making minute inquiry I understand that the hire of a negro may be
+fairly estimated at about two guilders for a single day; if engaged for
+several weeks, at one guilder per day; and when hired for a longer
+period, it may be rated at about 250, or nearly 300 guilders per annum.
+
+The compensation of professional labour bears a due proportion to the
+high profits acquired by the merchants and planters. From the population
+being very limited, and the inhabitants not yet crowded into towns, the
+medical practitioners are seldom rewarded with regular fees for their
+attendance; but are commonly allowed an annual salary for their
+services, thus establishing a kind of fixed income, which depends upon
+the number of estates under their inspection, and not upon the number of
+sick, whom they may have to visit.
+
+                           PRICE OF PROVISIONS
+                       IN THE COLONY OF DEMARARA.
+
+
+                            Dollars.    Bits.               £. _s._ _d._
+
+ Bread (rarely to be
+   purchased)                               1 _per lib._ or  0    0    5
+
+ Pork                                      2½ _do._          0    1   0½
+
+ Beef or mutton (seldom to
+   be procured)                        3 or 4 _do._          0    1    6
+
+ Milk (worse than in
+   London)                                  1 _per pint_     0    0    5
+
+ Cheese (brought from
+   England)                                 4 _per lib._     0    1    8
+
+ Salt butter                                4 _do._          0    1    8
+
+ A turkey                     5 or 6                         1    5    0
+
+ A duck                                    12                0    5    0
+
+ A fowl                            1                         0    4    8
+
+ Ham (brought from England)                 4 _per lib._     0    1    8
+
+ Loaf-sugar (coarse)                        6 _do._          0    2    6
+
+ Tea (green)                      4½          _do._          1    1    0
+
+ Apples (brought from
+   America)                                 4 _per doz._     0    1    8
+
+ Onions (_do._)                             1 _do._          0    0    5
+
+ Small tarts (such as are
+   sold in England for a
+   penny)                                   1 _each_         0    0    5
+
+ Madeira wine                      1          _per bottle_   0    4    8
+
+ Claret                            1          _do._          0    4    8
+
+ Porter                                     6 _do._          0    2    6
+
+
+                       PRODUCTIONS OF THE COLONY.
+
+
+                            Dollars.    Bits.
+
+ Plantains                            1 or 1½ _per bunch_    0    0    5
+
+ Yams                                       1 _per gal._     0    0    5
+
+ Eddoes                                     2 _do._          0    0   10
+
+ Sweet potatoes                             1 _do._          0    0    5
+
+ Oranges (brought to the
+   door)                                    1 _per doz._     0    0    5
+
+ Pines            _do._                     2 _for three_    0    0   10
+
+ Indian corn                                  _per 100
+                                       3 or 4 heads_         0    1    6
+
+ Grass (fresh cut, of which
+   a horse will eat 5 or 6
+   bundles in a day)                        1 _per bundle_   0    0    5
+
+ Cotton                                     3 _per lib._     0    1    3
+
+ Coffee                                    1½ _do._          0    0   7½
+
+ Sugar (fresh made in the
+   country)                                   _do._          0    0    4
+
+
+                         ARTICLES OF COMMON USE.
+
+
+                               Joes. Dollars. Bits.         £. _s._ _d._
+
+ A coat (ready made, and of
+   very common cloth)             2½          or             4   13    4
+
+ A shirt (ready made and
+   coarse)                                  6                1    8    0
+
+ A hat                             1                         1   17    4
+
+ A pair of boots (American,
+   and of very bad leather)                 7                1   12    8
+
+ A pair of shoes (very bad)                 3                0   14    0
+
+ A saddle (plain)             3 or 4                         7    7    0
+
+ A bridle (plain and neat)                 17                3   19    4
+
+Cabinet wares, and household furniture are extravagantly dear. All
+articles of iron, or polished steel soon become spoiled, in consequence
+of the erosive property of the sea air; hence it is common to have the
+hardware tinned or plated: even keys, knives, cork-screws, and the like,
+whether left in the room, or worn in the pocket, are soon covered with
+rust, and without constant care, are rendered useless.
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXIII.
+
+
+                                                     Demarara, May 1797.
+
+The commandant received the reply of the commander in chief on the 25th
+ult., and I am directed to take my departure from the coast of Guiana by
+the earliest opportunity. This may, therefore, be the last letter I
+shall address to you, from the continent of South America.
+
+Anticipating these instructions I had prepared cases for my collection
+of Indian specimens; which I have now packed up, and embarked on board
+the ship Homer, for London, hoping some day to meet them again in the
+neighbourhood of Bedford Square. Fortunately after long expectation, the
+model of an Indian house, which the friendly Bercheych had promised to
+procure me, from the inhabitants of the forest, arrived just in time to
+be enclosed: as it is complete in furniture and utensils, I shall look
+forward, with much pleasure, to the period, when I may have the
+opportunity of explaining to you, in England, the appropriate uses of
+all the little apparatus which you will find attached to it.
+
+I am also indebted to the commandant, Col. Hislop, for the model of an
+Indian house, brought to him by the Bucks, which you will likewise find
+in the collection embarked on board the Homer.
+
+It has happened, for some weeks past, that we have again been very
+particularly indebted to the king, for our allowance of daily food.
+Unable to procure fresh provisions in the colony, and none having been
+imported, the hospital mess has been wholly fed with the salt rations
+issued from his Majesty’s stores; and, no alternative remaining, we have
+been compelled to satisfy ourselves with a diet of salt beef and
+pease-soup, improved with only the occasional variety of pease-soup and
+saltpork.
+
+I should stand accused of neglecting our contract, were I to omit
+telling you that, in a late provision-hunting excursion, our party met
+two Dutch ladies upon the road, travelling, with great state, in a
+chaise drawn by six naked slaves, instead of horses. This was a scene of
+novelty, it being one of the toils of slavery which we had not before
+chanced to witness; nor indeed had we heard that it was practised.
+
+It is matter of much concern to me not to be able to improve the report
+of our surgical patients, before I quit the hospitals, which have been
+so long the objects of my anxious care, but, so far from this being the
+case, it is deemed necessary to embark another body of these unfortunate
+sufferers on board the ships now going to England.
+
+Next to fever, ulcers have been the severest scourge of the troops, and
+in both of these maladies we have noticed multitudes of instances, in
+sad proof of the fatal influence of climate upon our patients: while an
+European has been cut off in a few hours, by the yellow fever, a
+colonist has experienced a slight attack of the bilious remittent, and a
+negro had to support the simple paroxysm of an ague: or, while an
+English soldier has lingered, and died, from only a slight scratch or
+excoriation, the African, and the creole, have rapidly recovered from
+the widest and most perilous ulcers.
+
+If I state to you the result of twelve months experience, as it now
+appears before me, in a return which I have prepared for the commander
+in chief, it is not with a view of increasing your terrors, respecting
+the fatality of this climate, but rather of counteracting, in your mind,
+a prejudice which I have said prevails too extensively, regarding the
+insalubrity of Demarara, and indeed of the whole coast of Guiana.
+
+I observed before, that the commonly accepted opinion, that these
+settlements were more unhealthy than the West India islands, seemed to
+be incorrect; and, if I now remark that in the course of a year our loss
+has amounted to nearly 350 men, the returns from even the most favored
+of the islands, I have much reason to suspect, will sanction me in
+considering the assertion as decidedly erroneous: for we are taught to
+believe that few, if any, of the detachments of the very numerous army,
+under the command of Sir Ralph Abercromby, have escaped with so little
+loss, as the division serving in these colonies. In some of the islands
+we know that the mortality has been frightfully greater: in few—perhaps
+in none, has it been less. Yet, alas! it is, at best, but a melancholy
+consolation, that we should find cause to rejoice in having lost only
+one-fourth of our number!
+
+In the course of last week, and particularly on the 26th and 27th of the
+late month of April, we had many heavy showers of rain, accompanied with
+much thunder and lightning, also with the loud croakings of hosts of
+enormous frogs, and the distressful visitings of thick clouds of
+musquitoes; all of which are regarded as strong indications of a
+returning wet season. That the thunder and lightning have been less
+frequent, the musquitoes fewer, the breeze stronger, and the loud
+bellowings of the frogs less annoying, during the dry season, than they
+had been during the wet weather that preceded it, is a fact, to which
+the eyes and ears of all here can bear testimony: but how far these
+circumstances recurring with the showers of a lunar period, may be
+indicative of the returning invasion of the long wet season, I am not
+able to pronounce with equal certainty. Probability might seem to favor
+the opinion: yet the rains have again diminished, and the best observers
+do not positively declare our pleasant dry season to be at an end;
+therefore, as the wet season is commonly later in the islands, than upon
+this coast, I do not altogether despair of reaching Martinique in time
+to see that island during the continuance of fine weather.
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXIV.
+
+
+                                                        Demarara, May 5.
+
+The ship, which is to convey our surgical invalids, not having sailed, I
+gladly embrace the opportunity of offering you a word of kind adieu,
+before I take my departure. To-morrow I am to embark from this coast,
+together with such of the gentlemen of the St. Domingo hospital staff,
+as have been spared from the grave. The vessel, in which we have taken
+our passage, goes only to Martinique; how, and at what time we may
+proceed from thence to St. Domingo will, in all probability, depend upon
+circumstances, not within my control: but, for many reasons, I shall be
+anxious to reach the island, whither we are destined, hoping, there, to
+hail my comrades; to meet large packets of long-expected letters from my
+friends in England; to regain my books and baggage; and to become
+settled in a regular routine of professional duty. When you may hear of
+me again, or from whence, is among the uncertainties with which I am
+surrounded; but I shall continue to mark occurrences in the usual
+manner, and if your correspondent shall not have been too faithfully
+observant of your dictates, you may perhaps be troubled as heretofore:
+but I am fearful lest I should draw more “_Notes_” than you may be
+willing “_to accept_.”
+
+                                                           Adieu! adieu!
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XXXV.
+
+
+                                         St. Pierre, Martinique, May 13.
+
+Pursuant to the instructions which I had received, as mentioned in my
+late letters from the coast of Guiana, I took the earliest opportunity
+of proceeding from Demarara to head-quarters at Martinique, accompanied
+by Messrs. Mackie, Jordan, and Fleming, the only surviving assistants of
+the St. Domingo hospital department, who still continue with me, to
+rejoin that staff.
+
+We embarked on Saturday, May 6th, on board the Shark schooner, a small
+vessel deeply laden with cotton, and fitted up with little attention to
+the accommodation of passengers. Lieutenant D’Arcey of the 39th
+regiment, was of our party, and we had another cabin passenger in the
+person of an aged planter from Essequibo, named Jordine, who,
+notwithstanding he had been many years absent from Europe, still
+discovered, by his accent, that he had originally sailed from the north
+of Tweed.
+
+We made the passage in five days, and arrived here on the 11th instant.
+Knowing the total discomfort which I never fail to experience when at
+sea, I give you all the pleasant tidings you will expect, regarding the
+voyage, when I tell you that ... it is ended!
+
+Scarcely were we under sail before we found ourselves in trouble. Our
+crew had dipped so deeply into the parting glass, that they were quite
+incapable of working the vessel. No sooner, therefore, had we passed the
+bar into heaving and restless water, than we were compelled to let go
+the anchor, and lie pitching up and down at the mercy of the waves and
+the tide, until the sailors became sobered by sleep, They left their
+hammocks on the morning of the 7th, at an early hour, to get the vessel
+under weigh. Nearly as soon as the sails were unfurled I was seized with
+a violent sickness, and driven to my pillow, where I remained until the
+evening of the 8th, when we passed the island of Trinidad, leaving it
+several leagues to leeward.
+
+On the 9th the breeze moderated as the sun retired, and the schooner
+becoming more steady, I took my seat upon deck, and directed my eye
+towards the island of Tobago, which was visible at about ten leagues
+distance.
+
+Early on the morning of the 10th we were called from our births to see
+St. Vincent and St. Lucie, which were then distinctly in view, the
+former to leeward, the latter directly a-head of the vessel.
+
+St. Vincent appeared a high and rocky island, with its aspiring
+mountains rounded into a kind of regular form; while St. Lucie, which
+was nearer to us, presented a number of rude and craggy summits, formed
+into towering pyramids of naked rocks and broken precipices. At the S.W.
+point of this colony were seen the tops of two mountains particularly
+elevated, and from their form called “the Sugar-loaves.” It being in our
+course to sail close under them, their appearance was rendered very
+grand and awful; they seemed to hang suspended from the edge of the
+shore, as if threatening to fall upon the vessel, and crush it to atoms.
+
+Scarcely had we proceeded beyond the “Sugar-loaves,” when the breeze
+forsook us, and we were becalmed directly under the lee of the island,
+near Souffrée, which was formerly the capital of the colony. This town
+is situated at the border of the sea, a little beyond the mountainous
+point, in a confined bay, surrounded by lofty hills. After lying a
+considerable time, with the sails loose, the breeze was renewed, and
+carried our schooner pleasantly along the coast, affording us a most
+favorable opportunity of viewing the leeward part of St. Lucie: but as
+we were proceeding smoothly under the shore, a vessel hove in sight,
+directly a-head, making full sail towards us. Believing her to be a
+privateer, we instantly tacked about, and stood for the harbour of
+Souffrée; but she outsailed us, and we were in danger of being cut off
+from the land before we could reach near enough to be within the
+protection of the battery. Unfortunately, too, the breeze forsook us,
+and just as we approached near to the harbour’s mouth we found ourselves
+immoveable, with the additional mortification of seeing the ship that
+was chasing us coming up with full sails. Every thing was put in the
+best state for our defence, but at the moment when we expected the enemy
+to commence the attack, we observed that his vessel was also rendered
+motionless by the calm.
+
+The breeze was soon renewed, when our sails speedily filled, and we were
+carried into the bay. Upon seeing us take shelter in the harbour, our
+pursuer sailed across its mouth, making a signal implying that she was
+an English cruiser, and that we might proceed on our passage! But we
+presently discovered that this false alarm would be the loss of an
+entire day to us. We endeavoured to reconcile the delay by the
+opportunity it afforded of obtaining a better view of the island, which
+appeared to be a rugged mountainous waste. At the sides of some of the
+hills, and in the narrow valleys, were a few scattered houses; but most
+of them were abandoned, or in ruins. Only very small spots, at different
+points, were in cultivation, the greater part of the fields, which had
+formerly been obedient to the hoe and the spade, being neglected, and
+exhibiting one wide scene of desolation; indeed, the whole of the coast
+bore strong marks of having been a prey to the anarchy of the times, and
+displayed a gloomy example of the effects of that levelling and
+revolutionary engine—“egalité.”
+
+On the approach of evening we came within view of the Pigeon Island,
+Morne Fortuné, Morne Duchasseau, the Vigie, the Carenage, and all those
+places which, about twelve months before, had been the great scene of
+action. Here the cultivation was equally neglected, as in the other
+parts which we had passed. From the sterile prospect which met the eye,
+an unhappy impression was forced upon the mind in the recollection that
+these barren rocks had so recently been purchased at a melancholy
+expense of the blood and treasure of our country.
+
+In the whole line of coast, from Souffrée to Morne Fortuné, we did not
+observe a single battery, a circumstance which accounts for the temerity
+of the commanders of French privateers, who frequently capture our
+defenceless trading vessels close under the shores of the island.
+
+Just before sunset Martinique was discovered about ten leagues a-head;
+and we went to our births anticipating the delight of breakfasting at
+St. Pierre the next day.
+
+On the morning of the 11th the captain called us up, between five and
+six o’clock, in order that we might not lose the very favorable
+opportunity which then offered of viewing the island. On quitting our
+hammocks we found that we were sailing along the coast, close in shore,
+between Fort Royal and St. Pierre, standing toward the latter, and
+commanding a fine prospect, including Fort Royal harbour and the
+shipping. We were prevented by frequent returns of calm from getting in
+at breakfast-time, but the disappointment was amply compensated by the
+gratification of beholding distinct landscapes of several very pleasant
+parts of the territory.
+
+Martinique is mountainous, but less rude and craggy than St. Lucie. The
+hills are of more regular form. They also exhibit more of vegetation and
+improvement, and do not so often terminate in heavy masses of naked
+rock. The valleys are also wider, and better cultivated. These two
+islands, however much they may have been formerly allied in feature,
+appear from the sea to be the direct reverse of each other: while
+Martinique offers an animated scene of culture and richness, St. Lucie
+may be said to sleep under an extended and almost general sterility.
+
+We observed several small villages on the beach; and saw many fishermen
+employed in their boats or repairing their nets at the edge of the
+water. Canoes were passing in various directions; batteries appeared at
+short distances from each other, manned with soldiers; and all about the
+coast formed an active, busy scene.
+
+The approach to the town of St. Pierre presented one of the finest
+pictures that can be imagined. The breeze freshened as we came into the
+bay, and we were detained beating on and off until noon, which gave us
+the advantage of seeing the town, with the finely cultivated hills and
+fields of its environs, from different points.
+
+Imagine yourself at sea, near the coast of a most beautiful island, and
+sailing into an expansive bay, with a handsome town directly before you,
+encompassed with hills richly planted with coffee and cassada, fields
+spread with luxuriant verdure, and valleys loaded with sugarcanes: add
+to the scene a crowd of shipping, appearing like a forest below the
+town, and fruitful gardens and orchards hanging upon the hills above it;
+then place in the back-ground lofty mountains, clothed with thick woods,
+or crowned with dark majestic clouds, and you will have a correct
+representation of the splendid picture which was before us, as we
+approached the town of St. Pierre.
+
+Nor is the appearance of the place itself less striking. Unlike the
+towns of the English colonies, it resembles in structure those of
+Europe, particularly some of the old cities of the continent—the houses
+being high, the streets paved and very narrow, and the shops open, with
+the goods lying exposed for sale at the door and the unclosed windows.
+From its form, together with being placed directly under the hills, and
+on the leeward side of the island, you will perceive that the
+temperature of St. Pierre must be excessively high, and that
+convenience, more than health, has been consulted in marking the site of
+the capital. Happily a current of water finds its course down the middle
+of each of the principal streets, from a spring at the side of one of
+the hills, which serves as a stream of health and life to the
+inhabitants: without this, the air of the town must have been dreadfully
+oppressive, and the heat insupportable.
+
+We remarked, as a further novelty upon landing at St. Pierre, that the
+inhabitants, compared with those we had been lately accustomed to meet,
+were of uncommonly fair complexion. Nor is this peculiarity confined to
+those who have arrived from the distant shores of the Atlantic: it
+extends equally to the white creoles, and the people of colour,
+appearing even in those who are only a single remove from the negroes;
+perhaps it may be attributed to their living in a more confined heat,
+and closer shade, than those whom we had recently left in the more
+exposed colonies of Guiana.
+
+Not in its structure and appearance only, but in its accommodations
+likewise, St. Pierre more resembles the towns of Europe, than any of the
+places where we have lately resided. It is the capital of the Charibbee
+islands; and may be regarded as the metropolis of the windward colonies.
+It is now the head-quarters of the army, and consequently the great mart
+of stores and provisions, and the centre of general commerce. It offers
+the convenience of regularly established taverns and hotels, where
+strangers or travellers immediately find an appropriate home. Public
+walks, clubs, billiard-rooms, and a handsome playhouse, also crowded
+streets, overflowing shops, and a busy traffic are found at St. Pierre:
+these, together with the active movements of a military throng, create a
+mixed and interesting scene of war, pleasure, and business, each, in its
+turn, predominant, yet all prevailing together, and pursued with equal
+ardor by their separate or their common votaries.
+
+Coming from the quietude of Guiana, the change is peculiarly striking,
+and excites an impression very similar to that which is experienced, in
+England, upon removing from the stillness of a rural abode, to the noise
+and hurry of London. At present we live at an hotel, kept by a mulatto
+woman, where, by means of money, we have the power of procuring
+accommodations, and amply supplying our wants: which was not always the
+case at our late abode in South America. Our beds are good, the table is
+well served, and of the attendance we cannot complain. For dinner we pay
+two dollars each, for breakfast three quarters of a dollar, and for a
+bed the same. Madeira wine is a dollar and a quarter the bottle, Claret
+a dollar and a half, and other things in proportion; so that the whole
+expense of living in the plainest manner (although, from our late
+change, we might regard it as sumptuous) may be stated at an average of
+a joe each day. This, it may be remarked, can ill consist with the
+limited pay of many of the officers: but a well-regulated mess may be
+provided at a cheaper rate, though not upon terms so reasonable as in
+Europe, as you will readily perceive when I tell you that a thin
+half-fed calf is sold in the market at the price of fifteen or sixteen
+joes, a chicken for more than two dollars, and a turkey for seven
+dollars.
+
+The commander in chief being absent, with the expedition to Porto Rico,
+at the time of our arrival, I have not yet had an opportunity of
+acquiring any correct intelligence respecting our further destination:
+he returned to Martinique yesterday; I may hope, therefore, to give you
+some tidings, concerning our movements, in my next letter.
+
+                                                                  Adieu.
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXVI.
+
+
+                                         Fort Royal, Martinique, May 16.
+
+Sir Ralph Abercromby having taken up his quarters at Fort Royal, instead
+of St. Pierre, I have changed my home, in order to avail myself of the
+opportunity of laying before His Excellency a full statement of the
+returns, accompts, and general proceedings of the hospital department
+lately under my direction: and I feel much satisfaction in being able to
+inform you that the reports which I have presented have been honored
+with the full approbation of our respected commander in chief, who has
+confirmed his approval of the services of the branch of the St. Domingo
+hospital staff, lately stationed in Guiana, by issuing his warrant for
+all deficiencies of pay and disbursements to be made up to us before we
+leave Martinique.
+
+As a military position, Fort Royal is much stronger than St. Pierre;
+but, the town is smaller, less pleasant, built upon flatter ground, and,
+in point of situation, even less salubrious. Still it is peculiarly
+convenient as a residence for the commander in chief, on account of the
+vicinity of the harbour, and the ready communication, which it offers,
+with the admiral and the fleet. The forts and batteries raised about it,
+for the defence of the town and the shipping, have been constructed at
+an immense expenditure of labour and money. They are very formidable,
+and of imposing aspect; particularly Fort George, which is built upon a
+high and distinct tumulus, so steep as to be difficult of ascent; and
+commands the town, the bay, the Carenage, and the other batteries below,
+while these form the more immediate protection of the shipping.
+
+Such indeed is the strength of the hill on which Fort George is
+constructed, that, if it were duly garrisoned and provided, it might
+resist the attack of almost any force that could be brought against it.
+
+The harbour is extensive, and, from the safe anchorage which it affords
+to a very large fleet, it renders this island particularly important in
+a time of war.
+
+We came from St. Pierre to Fort Royal in one of the passage-boats of the
+island, which of all the modes I have yet experienced of journeying by
+sea, I found to be the least unpleasant. It is a large canoe rowed by
+three negroes, a fourth sitting at the end and steering with a paddle. A
+light awning is raised over the sternmost part of the vessel, and the
+deck is neatly spread with matting, upon which the passenger may sit, or
+lie down at his ease, and view the rich coast of the island as he
+passes. Being narrow and very long, this little bark is pulled on with
+great rapidity, the motion being so slight as scarcely to be felt.
+Sometimes, when going to leeward, the negroes, in order to save
+themselves the trouble of rowing, venture to hoist a sail: but this is
+always dangerous, the canoe, from its lightness, being liable to be
+upset by any sudden gust of wind, which might proceed from the small
+bays, or round the points of any of the rocks, at the moment when it
+should happen to be passing.
+
+The distance, by sea, from St. Pierre to Fort Royal is seventeen or
+eighteen miles; but the time required for the passage will of course
+vary according to the state of the wind, and the period of the tide. We
+performed it in three hours.
+
+There is a nearer way by land, but the road is rugged, and leads across
+rude and broken hills; the passage-boat is, therefore, the more common
+conveyance between the two towns.
+
+In addition to the excellent sight of the luxuriant borders of the
+island afforded us by this little voyage, the beauty and interest of the
+scene were greatly enhanced by our falling in with the expedition
+returning from Porto Rico; consisting of about forty sail of ships,
+standing along the coast, towards Fort Royal harbour. The breeze was
+light, the water tranquil, and the horizon so clear that we could
+plainly see every ship; while the fertile shores of the island, the fine
+bay of Fort Royal, and a wide expanse of ocean were all distinctly
+before the eye.
+
+Either we have been unfortunate in our quarters at this place, or the
+accommodations are very inferior to those of St. Pierre; and in
+proportion as they are worse they are more extravagant. For a bad
+breakfast the charge is a dollar—for a very poor dinner, at the table
+d’hôte, two dollars and a half—for supper, two dollars—and for a bed, in
+a dirty ill-furnished room, a dollar.
+
+The general hospital, or great depôt of the sick, is established at St.
+Pierre; and is a permanent institution, conveniently adapted to its
+purpose. It is termed La Charité, and was used by the French, as a
+colonial hospital, before we took possession of the island, being under
+the superintendence of Le Père Edouard, an aged French physician, who
+still resides as a medical practitioner in the town of St. Pierre.
+
+In point of cleanliness, order, and general regulation this hospital
+does much credit to the Inspector-general, while it holds out a high and
+parental example to all its detachments. The edifice is handsome and
+spacious, but its situation is ill-chosen, it being erected close under
+a hill, with other buildings near to it, more elevated than itself,
+whereby the free circulation of air is much impeded. Upon a piece of
+ground, at a short distance in the front, are planted rows of trees,
+whose cool shade may in some degree compensate the want of breeze,
+although they combine, with the rude precipices of rock behind, to cast
+a gloom upon the building, which gives it the solemn aspect of a
+sepulchre. Adjoining to the hospital are apartments for the officers and
+attendants, and a large public mess-room, together with other offices
+and out-buildings, which are necessary to the completion of a permanent,
+and well-ordered establishment.
+
+Several other places are fitted up, within the town of St. Pierre, as
+occasional wards, to prevent the necessity of over-crowding La Charité,
+which, although very spacious, has not been found sufficiently extensive
+for the accommodation of the immense numbers thrown into it, during the
+late pressure of sickness. Upon a lofty hill, in a very delightful
+situation above the town, is established, likewise, a temporary hospital
+for convalescents; to which those who are recovering are removed from La
+Charité, not only with the benefit of pure country air, and a cool
+temperature, but with a further advantage of being separated from the
+sick and the dying, and placed where their convalescence may be more
+speedily advanced, by taking gentle exercise upon the hills, amidst a
+varied and cheerful scenery.
+
+I am happy in being able to inform you that the extreme violence of the
+fever has subsided at Martinique, as well as upon the coast of Guiana.
+The _seasoning_, as it is commonly termed, has been dreadfully severe;
+and it is our best hope that those, who have had the good fortune to
+withstand it, have become sufficiently creolised to resist its future
+attacks. In this island the disease has proved extremely fatal. It
+assumed the same character as in Guiana, but with even additional
+malignity. Of the mode of treatment I do not learn any thing very
+decisive: bleeding and mercury are not in repute at La Charité; but the
+medical officers have been so little stationary, that no precise method
+of practice has been regularly pursued. The means employed by one, have
+not, perhaps, been deemed the most advisable by the next; so that amidst
+the fluctuating opinions upon the subject, each remedy has had its
+advocate, and no settled plan of cure has been established.
+
+Great mortality has occurred among the officers of the hospital
+department. Of ten physicians belonging to the staff of the Charibbee
+Islands, five have died since the month of February last year. You will
+perceive from this unhappy fact, that, although it be not the duty of
+medical officers to march up to the cannon’s mouth, theirs is not a
+service free from danger.
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXVII.
+
+
+                                                     St. Pierre, May 30.
+
+Again I address you from the pleasant town of St. Pierre—the London of
+the windward colonies; whither I was glad to return as soon as
+circumstances would allow. Finding that we may be detained here some
+time longer, we have taken private apartments, where we have very good
+accommodations, and are patiently waiting for an opportunity to proceed
+to St. Domingo. We learn that the large hospital, La Charité, has been
+used as a general depôt of sick, not only for Martinique, but also for
+the neighbouring colonies; whence it must necessarily result that the
+weekly reports, from this island, can afford no just criterion of its
+healthiness or insalubrity. Numbers of the medical and surgical cases
+borne upon the Martinique returns, having been brought hither from other
+stations, the proportion of sickness and death will consequently be
+diminished in those places, while that of this island will be increased;
+and the returns will be a very inaccurate standard for ascertaining the
+casualties by disease in the several colonies: still, upon a general
+computation, I cannot but observe the correctness of a remark lately
+expressed to me by Sir Ralph Abercromby—viz. “that the coast of Guiana
+has been less destructive than the islands!”
+
+I may now remark that the general face of this colony differs not less
+from the coast of Demarara, than the town of St. Pierre does from the
+town of Stabroek. The combination of grand and beautiful scenery, with
+richness and fertility, renders Martinique one of the most pleasant
+islands, not only of the West Indies, but, perhaps of the globe. I was
+much delighted with the fine views, and the picturesque hills and fields
+and woods of Barbadoes, but Martinique out-rivals them all—its valleys
+are richer, its mountains higher, and its forests more deep and
+extensive; nor does it bear about it the same marks of exhaustion and
+decrepitude, but seems to luxuriate in all the vigour of youth and
+health.
+
+A few days since, I made an excursion into the country, when scenes of
+rude nature and fertile cultivation presented themselves in the most
+pleasing variety at almost every step of my path. My visit was to Mr.
+Dornford the commissary of accompts, whom I found residing in a cool
+temperature, at a most romantic cottage, upon a high mountain, about
+three miles from St. Pierre; whither he had retired in search of the
+health, which he had lost in the heated town below.
+
+Leaving St. Pierre, with its fine bay, and the wide ocean, the ascent is
+by a steep path, between hills planted with cassada and coffee, leading
+to mountains still higher and higher; some covered with rich tropical
+productions, others clothed with wild woods, and the loftiest of them
+festooned with dark majestic clouds. At one part of the ride the path
+runs along a narrow mountainous ridge, whose steep declivities, on each
+side, are formed into fields of coffee and cassada. On the left, the
+deep vale below is loaded with sugar, and enriched with the silent
+meanderings of a river, which in its course through these (literally)
+sweet fields, wanders to the foot of a most rural village, and thence
+winds its passage onward to the sea. On the right, the more extended and
+equally productive valley is bordered by other hills, beyond which
+appears the broad expanse of the ocean: so that within the immediate
+view is comprehended all the variety of hill and vale, prolific fields,
+rugged mountains and wild forests, the roaring sea, a gentle river, a
+quiet romantic village, and the busy public town of St. Pierre. Were a
+spot to be chosen, it would be difficult perhaps to find another which
+so amply combines all that might be wished for in the most exquisite
+panorama.
+
+According to the custom of the West Indies, I was attended by a running
+footman, in the person of a young slave, who kept close to his duty by
+holding fast to the mane, or the tail of the horse.
+
+While I was at the cottage a storm came on, which was followed by heavy
+torrents of rain; and the many beauties of the scenery around, were
+improved by the fine varieties of light and shade: but the wet increased
+the difficulties of my path; and on my return, I found it expedient to
+dismount, and commit my steed to the care of my attendant, in order to
+avoid falling over his ears.
+
+Within the distance of an evening promenade the environs of St. Pierre
+present a great diversity of interesting prospects, which are commonly
+closed by a magnificent back-ground of stupendous mountains.
+
+In no particular does the novelty of Martinique strike the observer more
+forcibly than in the great number of females who are seen at the doors
+of the houses, or parading about the streets and public walks. At
+Demarara it was a subject of common remark, that after the British
+troops arrived, the males far outnumbered the females; but at
+Martinique, notwithstanding the military battalions, the proportion is
+greatly in favor of the other sex. On my noticing this fact, two causes
+were assigned in explanation of it—1st, the general policy of the
+French, who have usually imported a greater proportion of female slaves,
+than either the English or the Dutch; 2dly, the late influx of female
+emigrants from Guadaloupe, and the other French islands. Amidst the
+crowded numbers, are also many more European ladies than we had been
+accustomed to see in the colonies of Guiana.
+
+The creole pallor of countenance, common to West Indians, prevails also
+at Martinique; yet we meet with many females at St. Pierre, and some,
+even, among the people of colour, whom we now regard as handsome; but I
+speak only comparatively with those of other tropical places, for,
+amidst the fresh roses of our English beauties, the prettiest of these
+would seem pale and faded.
+
+Their figure and carriage are graceful, and they have all the vivacity
+of the European French women: (a proof that this part of the Gallic
+character is not the effect of climate.) It is remarkable that many of
+the handsomest women now at St. Pierre, are emigrants from Guadaloupe,
+which colony seems to be the Circassia of the West Indies; for, almost
+uniformly, when we have noticed a woman whose figure and face had more
+than common attraction, we have been told “C’est une emigrée de la
+Guadaloupe,” or “C’est une Guadaloupienne.”
+
+We made an excursion, a few days ago, to eat fish at a village called
+Chasse-pilote, upon the border of the sea, a short distance from St.
+Pierre. Here we observed likewise that the streets were crowded with
+women; and that scarcely a male was to be seen among them. A venerable
+French lady invited us into her house, and treated us with fruit, paying
+many compliments to the character of the British troops, and speaking in
+high terms of the English nation, in general. Near Chasse-pilote we
+found the Cassia fistularis planted in extensive groves, and under the
+trees were lying heaps of the pods which might have served to make
+lenitive electuary for a year’s consumption for all England.
+
+On the occasion of a late funeral at St. Pierre, we had a farther
+opportunity of noticing the great disproportion of females which is so
+remarkable at Martinique; they having contributed in excessive numbers
+to the crowd. The whole of this scene being novel, I may mention to you
+some of the leading circumstances regarding it.
+
+It was the burial of a child of colour, who had been made a Christian
+according to the forms of the church of Rome. The procession was deeply
+thronged, and conducted by the dark-hued race in their highest style of
+African parade. The corpse was placed in a coffin, but instead of being
+fastened down, it was only lightly covered with a fine sheet of linen,
+which served as a pall. Two mulatto women, clad in white, preceded the
+body, supporting the two corners of the sheet: two negro women, clothed
+also in white, followed, holding the two other corners. Six men
+supported the coffin upon three white napkins, the two first and the two
+last dressed in dark clothes, those in the middle in white. Immediately
+behind the corpse were several negro and mulatto women, mostly in
+coloured apparel; and behind these was a great crowd of nearly three
+hundred women, negroes, mulattoes, and mestees, all neatly and uniformly
+attired in white; walking nine or ten abreast, and almost filling the
+street from side to side, and from end to end. The female costume was a
+high white turban, a chemise with very large, loose, short sleeves,
+pinned together across the back, and a short white petticoat. The whole
+being very clean and neat, the black face, neck, and limbs relieved the
+general whiteness of the dress; and, together with the yellow and pallid
+countenances, which were intermixed, produced a peculiar and striking
+effect.
+
+We have also witnessed another degree of the pomp of Catholic obsequies,
+in the funeral procession of a white inhabitant of St. Pierre. On this
+occasion, nineteen men and boys led the way, clothed in red and white,
+and bearing numbers of crosses, vases, candelabra, and tapers. Following
+these were twelve men, dressed in black, carrying similar ornaments and
+apparatus, and chanting in sonorous strains. Next came the corpse,
+supported by six men, with four others at the corners, clad in sable,
+and having bundles of enormous candles in their hands: then succeeded a
+deep line of mourners, some wearing the aspect of unaffected sorrow,
+some with features of the greatest indifference, heedlessly carrying
+large torches, and others with vacant countenances howling out purchased
+grief, to the great annoyance of the Protestant inhabitants of the
+streets through which they passed.
+
+In order to witness the mode of proceeding in the French, as well as in
+the Dutch and English colonies, I have been induced again to attend a
+sale of a cargo of slaves. They were exposed to public bidding, in an
+open square, at the end of the town of St. Pierre; but, as the business
+was conducted by Englishmen, and according to their usual method, it
+offered nothing new regarding this degrading traffic in our species. It
+will give you pleasure to hear of a circumstance respecting the cargo,
+which, though direful to the enemy, does honor to the captain and his
+crew, by showing that they must have treated these poor Africans with
+kindness and humanity, during the passage from their native country to
+their place of bondage. On their voyage to Martinique the vessel was
+captured by a French privateer, and a prize-master was put on board to
+carry the ship and cargo into Guadaloupe: but, before they reached the
+harbour, the negroes rose upon the captors, and killed the French
+prize-master, together with all his people; then, liberating the English
+crew, restored to them their vessel, and gave themselves up to be
+conducted to Martinique, where they were to be sold as slaves. You will
+probably anticipate the information, that those negroes, who were the
+leaders in recapturing the ship, were purchased on the part of
+government, and received as soldiers into the black corps of the island.
+
+Consistently with the desultory style of these Notes, I may conduct you
+from the painful ideas of slavery to the pleasurable scenes of the
+theatre. The playhouse stands prominent among the places of amusement at
+St. Pierre. It is a well-built edifice, handsomely fitted up, and
+liberally supported. The performances are given by a company of French
+comedians, whose talents, if not such as to obtain plaudits from the
+audience of Drury Lane, or Le Theatre François, may claim their rank in
+the station of mediocrity.
+
+In point of size and decoration, the building is superior to the
+majority of playhouses in the provincial towns of England, and scarcely
+inferior to the Haymarket theatre, of London. Probably such an
+establishment might not find support in any of the British colonies of
+the West Indies; yet, at the little island of Martinique, the house is
+not only well attended, but often thronged, particularly on the Sabbath
+night; for, Sunday being a gala day, multitudes crowd to their favorite
+amusement, and the theatre commonly overflows.
+
+The audience is sometimes very brilliant—indeed exceedingly splendid;
+for the influence of fashion extends to these regions, and dress has its
+charms, even where so little is required. The ease and gracefulness of
+French manners have also reached this spirited colony. In the manners,
+the persons, carriage, and attire of the females, there is likewise a
+peculiar air of taste and magnificence. They appear with naked elbows,
+and waists extremely short, according to the prevailing mode in Europe.
+
+The high twisted turbans, glittering trinkets, and nodding plumes enrich
+the general elegance of the apparel; and, being intermixed, throughout
+the theatre, with the many-coloured uniforms of the officers, the whole
+produces a variety and brilliancy of effect scarcely to be equalled in
+the more spacious realms of Drury Lane, or Covent Garden. A dollar is
+the price of admission into the boxes; half a dollar into the pit, the
+gallery, or the parterre.
+
+The weather has been dry and pleasant ever since our arrival at
+Martinique; nor have we yet any marks of the approaching wet season,
+although it was supposed that the rains had set in, some time since,
+upon the coast of Guiana. We find the heat greater here than at
+Demarara; but this is probably the effect of locality. The town of St.
+Pierre may be hotter than the town of Stabroek, though the general
+temperature of the colony, especially upon the hills, be lower.
+
+
+
+
+                            LETTER XXXVIII.
+
+
+                                                  Martinique, June 1797.
+
+Many persons here are flattering themselves with the prospect of a
+speedy peace. The rumour has probably arisen from the circumstance of
+the commander in chief having given directions for a partial diminution
+of some of the establishments which is perhaps only an economical
+regulation, in consequence of the present tranquil state of the army,
+and its reduced numbers. This arrangement being extended to the medical
+department, the services of some of the supernumerary assistants, who
+were engaged in the islands for a temporary purpose, during the severe
+pressure of sickness, are now dispensed with. From the decrease of
+disease, and the diminished number of troops, some of the other classes
+of medical officers are likewise left without employment, and may,
+consequently, return to England; but this, in no degree, authorizes the
+expectation of an approaching cessation of hostilities.
+
+I grieve to tell you that our much-valued commissary of accompts has not
+experienced any benefit from his retirement at the delightful
+mountain-cottage, which I mentioned in a former letter. He is now
+returned to St. Pierre for the convenience of medical attendance. Père
+Edouard, the venerable French physician, under whose care he was placed
+in the early stage of his illness, considers him to be convalescent,
+although in a feeble state; but his friends have many anxious
+forebodings respecting the event of his case; and wish him safe in
+England.
+
+Mr. Dornford made me acquainted with Père Edouard, not only that I might
+meet him in consultation on the subject of his own illness; but also
+with the obliging intention of giving me an opportunity of hearing his
+remarks regarding the fever of Martinique, and tropical diseases in
+general.
+
+The Père is a polite and accomplished man, very much of the old French
+_regime_, and quite a methodical member of his profession. He was the
+principal officer of the medical department at La Charité, before the
+island was captured by the English. Desirous of acquiring information
+from his experience, you will imagine that I listen with eagerness to
+his observations, and that I am much gratified in finding him affable
+and communicative. Educated in the continental schools, he has imbibed
+their tenets, and, according to the doctrine of former days, he esteems
+venæsection the great and leading remedy in all fevers, particularly at
+their commencement. The only difference in his treatment of the yellow
+fever, and the bilious remittent, of hot climates, consists in the
+extent to which the bleeding is carried. In the latter it is seldom
+repeated beyond a second, or a third time; recourse being then had to
+the Peruvian bark, and other tonics: but in the former the
+blood-letting, aided only by laxatives and diluents, is continued
+throughout the whole course of the disease.
+
+Père Edouard remarks, that the English physicians have a strange
+abhorrence of a slow convalescence; and, from the dread of debilitating
+the patient, they do not bleed him sufficiently to subdue the disorder:
+but the French physicians, being less fearful, regarding a tedious
+recovery, take away blood more freely, in order to overcome the
+immediate danger from the disease, which he considers to be effected “by
+decreasing, and altering the offending fluid” so considerably as to
+prevent the recurrence of febrile action. With this view he holds it
+necessary sometimes to repeat the venæsection as many as ten, twelve, or
+(as in his own case) fourteen times.
+
+As an elucidation of his practice, the Père maintains that it is not
+sufficient to reduce an Englishman, who may be attacked with fever soon
+after his arrival in the West Indies, down to the standard of an
+Englishman in health; but that he should be bled down to the standard of
+a French creole; and then supported through a slow convalescence upon a
+diet of bread and water, ptisan, or thin sago. He feels no apprehension
+from the excessive debility which must necessarily ensue; nor, on
+account of any of the maladies which might result from the depleting
+treatment being carried to an extreme degree.
+
+On the fourth inst. we were enlivened by reviews of troops, hoisting of
+flags, firing of salutes, and other marks of rejoicing, in honor of his
+Majesty’s birth-day; and on the evening of the fifth the governor gave a
+grand ball and supper at St. Pierre, on the occasion; when we had an
+opportunity of witnessing a crowded assemblage of the beauty and fashion
+of Martinique.
+
+According to the custom of the West Indies the ladies danced a long time
+without fatigue, in defiance of oppressive heat, and in a room so
+thronged that it was almost suffocation, even to remain in it. Without
+the exertion of dancing I felt the heat so distressing that I was
+obliged to seek relief by walking frequently down a cool avenue of
+grenadilloes and jasmine, which led from the door of the house, to a
+pleasant garden.
+
+Many genteel and graceful women were present at the ball, and there was
+a greater display of handsome females than is common in the West Indies:
+but there was no example of that lovely freshness of countenance which
+so distinguishes the fair of our country. It has often occurred to me to
+observe a striking difference between the foreign ladies, and those of
+England, and particularly between the English and the French, which,
+however difficult to describe in words, is, to the eye, very
+perceptible. More acuteness, more of vivacity and brilliancy are
+commonly displayed in the features of French females: but I never
+witnessed, in the women of any other country, that sweetly appealing
+softness—that modest gentleness—that tender and inviting loveliness of
+face, which prevails among the genuine daughters of the British islands.
+The smooth and flowing line of beauty is more correctly preserved in the
+English countenance than in that of other nations. There is a blooming
+delicacy—an expression of tenderness and retirement which, to our sex,
+seems to say ... _Protect me!_ while the harder lines and more prominent
+points, together with the quickness and animation of the French mien,
+bespeak a confidence almost masculine, and appeal only to our ...
+_participation_!
+
+But I am wandering from the birth-day and the governor’s fête. Let me
+return, and do justice to the ladies I left in the ball-room, by telling
+you that the French excel, in dancing, equally in the West Indies, as in
+Europe. Nor is this confined to the whites; for the French people of
+colour are infinitely superior, in the agility and gracefulness of the
+dance, to the dark-hued race of the Dutch and British colonies.
+
+Card-tables were set in two smaller apartments, adjoining the ball-room;
+but they were thinly attended, and did not seem to constitute one of the
+favorite amusements of the evening.
+
+At midnight a very elegant supper was served in a long saloon, which
+opened into the garden, and nearly a hundred ladies sat down to enjoy
+the refreshment of a cool room, and a liberal repast; but, instead of
+being permitted to partake in comfort and quietness of the plentiful
+collation before them, a rude freedom of manners (or an unbecoming
+foreign habit) created a scene of scrambling and confusion, which, in
+England, would have disgraced a market-day ordinary.
+
+Perhaps it was polite for the gentlemen to place themselves behind the
+ladies, professing to attend, and procure them what they wished
+for—perhaps it was kind in the ladies to give a bone, or a tart to their
+favorite partners; but the scene, thus introduced, was sadly vulgar and
+indecorous. The gentlemen crowded about the ladies, pressing upon their
+chairs in rows three or four deep, almost forcing them upon the viands;
+when some of the fair (with more kindness than delicacy) handed over
+their shoulders, to those near them, a leg of a duck or a chicken, a
+slice of ham, or some other part of the repast. This seemed to be
+regarded as the signal for a general scramble. Pies, tarts, pigeons,
+ducks, chickens, ham, fruit, salad, or any thing the ladies could give,
+or the men could reach, were now snatched off the table, and torn to
+pieces, without knives or forks, or spoons or plates, and devoured, as
+if by a den of ravenous wolves, who had been long deprived of their
+prey. Here stood one gnawing a bone, there another swallowing fat ham;
+the next was tearing asunder the joints of a duck, or a chicken; the
+fourth gobbling up a pie or a tart. A tall officer, with his filthy
+black whiskers reaching to the corners of his mouth, was cramming down a
+bowl of salad with his fingers; another was devouring a plate of fruit,
+and the next greedily consuming a dish of cakes and sweets: in short,
+the whole group were voraciously gnawing, tearing, and swallowing
+whatever provisions chanced to be nearest them, equally regardless of
+cleanliness, decency, and good manners. Nor did the fluids of the feast
+escape better than the solids: for wine, porter, noyeau, and all the
+liquors of the table, were seized in the same lawless manner, and
+numbers were seen standing with bottles between their knees, drinking
+and serving out the contents to their friends with a spoon, a
+tureen-ladle, a butter-boat, or any other unseemly utensil within their
+grasp.
+
+It was intended that all should eat, and the governor’s hospitality had
+most amply spread the board; but, alas! when those who had waited,
+without joining in the scramble, quietly took the seats from which the
+ladies retired, they found scarcely any thing remaining upon the table,
+for, in addition to the craving appetites with which the supper had been
+devoured, it was remarked that some of the ladies, like certain animals,
+had auxiliary pouches, which served as reservoirs, to administer to
+their stomachs a future supply.
+
+Having noticed the superior style of dancing which prevails among the
+French people of colour, I may remark that I have had a recent
+opportunity of witnessing it, upon the mirthful occasion of a
+negro-wedding; when the slaves of the estate and their visitors were
+indulged with a grand ball in order to celebrate the happy alliance.
+They danced, in large groups, upon a spacious green, in front of their
+owners’ dwelling; and never was a happier crowd assembled. Great agility
+was displayed, and, compared with the rude motions and savage gestures
+of the slaves in the Dutch and British settlements, their steps might be
+considered as graceful.
+
+Besides the happy party upon the green, the inferior orders of the gang
+were seen at the negro-huts of the estate, footing it merrily, to the
+simple sound of the banjar; nor even among these, did we observe those
+disgusting attitudes and movements which constitute so great a part of
+the common, hideous dance of the Africans.
+
+When I mentioned, in a former letter, the many beauties, and the
+pleasing variety of scenery of Martinique, it would probably occur to
+you that they must have appeared peculiarly striking to us, from being
+so strongly contrasted with the country we had lately left. That you may
+better judge of this, I will now place before you a concise view of some
+of the remarkable points of difference, between the coast of Guiana, and
+the island of Martinique, such as they present themselves to our early
+notice; cautioning you to regard them only as simple facts, given,
+without favor or prejudice, merely as they meet the eye and the
+observation of a stranger.
+
+             MARTINIQUE.                   DEMARARA AND BERBISCHE.
+
+ Mountainous: varied and             An extensive flat—one continued
+ picturesque: rich valleys,          field, richly spread with cotton,
+ rivulets, green fields: plantations intersected with great numbers of
+ of sugar, coffee and cassada.       wet ditches.
+
+ Roads hilly and rough, hard and     Roads of the common soil, or clay:
+ almost always dry—some paved with   in the dry season flat and smooth:
+ stone.                              in the wet season deep in mud, and
+                                     almost impassable.
+
+ Bold rocks, and romantic shores     The sea at high water above the
+ bordering the sea.                  level of the land—kept from
+                                     overflowing the country by
+                                     artificial banks of mud or clay.
+
+ The principal town large, regularly Scarcely any towns yet formed. The
+ built, and, in form, like those of  capital of each colony in its
+ Europe: streets long and narrow,    infancy. Streets not paved: houses
+ and well paved: houses built of     built of wood, and covered with
+ stone, and covered with tiles. Many wood. No villages.
+ small villages.
+
+ A playhouse; coffeehouses, and      None.
+ taverns; tables d’hotes; public
+ promenades; public baths;
+ card-clubs.
+
+ Rich stores; well-furnished shops;  No regular shops: a few public
+ trades and the various kinds of     stores: division of labour but
+ employment branching out into       little introduced.
+ numerous divisions, as in Europe.
+
+ Crowded population. People gay and  Population thin. People sedate and
+ volatile: proportion of females     reserved. Males more numerous than
+ greater than of males.              females.
+
+ Various churches, and religious     No place of worship, nor any signs
+ establishments, with great parade   of an established religion.
+ of public worship.
+
+ Vegetables, fruits, flowers,        No public cries of any kind in the
+ jellies, soups, liqueurs, &c.,      streets.
+ publicly cried about the streets.
+
+ A freedom of intercourse, and a     Extreme distance observed between
+ degree of familiarity between the   the whites, and all the various
+ whites and the people of colour.    shades of Africans, and their
+                                     descendants.
+
+ Innumerable shades, or degrees      Gradation very abrupt, a wide
+ between the whites and the blacks.  chasm, with only few shades,
+                                     between the Europeans and the
+                                     Africans.
+
+ Slaves decently clothed: the        Male slaves often naked: females
+ females sometimes in shoes.         dressed only in a short coarse
+                                     petticoat.
+
+ The loud clang of the whip but      The ear almost daily tortured with
+ seldom heard.                       the sound of the whip, and the
+                                     cries of the sufferers.
+
+ Mules employed to do the heavy work All the labour performed by slaves.
+ of the estates.
+
+ Amidst the many slight shades, and  The sombre veil of slavery every
+ the mirth and gaiety of crowded     where manifest.
+ numbers, the dark cloud of bondage
+ scarcely perceptible.
+
+We find that the French are more in the habit of conversing, as
+companions, with the slaves, than is common among the English and the
+Dutch; and that the females, employed in the house, are treated more in
+the manner of the filles de chambre of Europe. From this circumstance,
+together with the slight gradations of shade, or the many links forming
+the chain between the Europeans and the Africans, and from the great
+number of people of colour, who have obtained their freedom, it is
+extremely difficult to ascertain where the line of slavery commences.
+But while the eye and the feelings are less offended by the degrading
+distinctions of bondage, it is observable that with respect to kicking,
+cuffing, and scolding, the French are not more tender towards their
+human property than the owners in other colonies. It is even probable
+that the less frequent sound of the whip proceeds, in a great degree,
+from a cause not exclusively founded in humanity.
+
+In words, the French degrade the people of colour into mere brutes, the
+terms negro and bête being commonly used as synonymous. Amidst the noise
+of a crowded town, the distressful lash is not so easily heard: nor is
+it common, at St. Pierre, to inflict the punishment in the same exposed
+manner as at Stabroek and New Amsterdam; it being a regulation of the
+police, that any one, wishing to have his slave punished, shall send him
+to the public bourreau (or executioner) at the house of correction,
+accompanied with a written charge or deposition against him, and a
+certain fee. By this arrangement the chastisement is better proportioned
+to the offence than it might be under the immediate inspection of the
+enraged master, and is, at the same time, stamped with an air of public
+justice.
+
+Although it would be difficult, or impossible, from either face or
+manner, to distinguish many of the people of colour from the creole
+whites, still, however nearly they may approach in hue, or in conduct,
+it would be regarded as an irretrievable disgrace to intermarry with any
+of the race, however distantly descended from the Africans. If, by the
+minutest scrutiny of pedigree, only the slightest trace of negro blood
+can be discovered in their veins, it forms an indelible stain, and
+establishes an impenetrable barrier against such an union.
+
+In Martinique, the descendants of the Africans sometimes observe the
+regular forms of matrimony among themselves; but the whitest and best
+educated of their females prefer living as chères amies, with Europeans,
+or white creoles, rather than marry with any of the other classes; all
+of whom they regard as infinitely inferior.
+
+The great distinction, between the whites, and the people of colour, is
+scrupulously observed, also, at public places; for, although in manner,
+dress, and person, those of the two classes may be strictly equal,
+still, where the fatal taint of African blood can be traced, the
+presence of such persons would not be tolerated: they would not be
+permitted to sit among, or to associate with genuine _backras_—“les
+véritables blancs.”
+
+At the house, where I am now an inmate, the family consists of females
+of five or six different shades of skin; and we see, almost daily,
+little Miss, the fair daughter of the mestee hostess, tripping along to
+church, with her darker slave at her heels, carrying the parasol to
+protect her from the sun, and a small stool for her to pray upon; yet,
+notwithstanding her being thus attended upon the streets, or to a place
+of worship, if this young lady were to presume to appear in the pit or
+boxes of the playhouse, she would be instantly taught, that the gallery
+was the fit place for persons of African descent.
+
+From these circumstances it will be seen, that the separation formed by
+colour is of immense magnitude with respect to the general practice of
+slavery. Its influence is beyond all calculation: construed into a sign
+of physical inferiority, it describes, at once, the line of demarcation;
+and fixes the stigma of bondage in a more precise and forcible manner
+than could have been effected by the most rigorous law of human
+invention. Nature has legibly drawn the distinctive line. The taint is
+marked in the countenance; it exists in the blood—is incurable, and
+descends to the remotest posterity. It is extremely doubtful whether the
+system which is pursued in the West Indies, could have been continued to
+the present day—whether the moral laws of our nature could have been,
+thus long, held at defiance, if the slave-owners had not raised about
+them an impregnable barrier, by seizing upon this most important
+physical distinction.
+
+My pen being now upon the subject of slavery, I may relate an occurrence
+which happened only the day before we sailed from Demarara; and which, I
+am sorry to remark, stands too prominent in confirmation of the reputed
+cruelty practised by some of the Dutch colonists towards their negroes.
+
+I took my farewell dinner with a party at the commandant’s; and, in the
+evening, after I had retired, but while the other gentlemen remained at
+table, they were disturbed by the groans of some person, who seemed to
+be in extreme agony. Prompted by feelings of humanity, Colonel Hislop
+sent one of the officers to the house, from whence the afflicting cries
+were thought to proceed, in order to ascertain if any person were ill,
+or if it might be in his power to afford relief; when, to the
+astonishment of all who were present, a scene of the most shocking
+cruelty was discovered. Instead of meeting with any one in sickness, the
+gentleman deputed upon this commission found a wretched slave suffering
+under a species of torture which could only have been invented by the
+most diabolical malignity.
+
+The unfortunate man was tied down to the ground, with his limbs
+stretched out to the utmost extent; the legs being fastened with heavy
+chains, and the hands with strong cords, which were painfully tightened
+by being twisted with pieces of wood, placed across the wrists. For the
+honor of human nature, I hope it is a solitary, although an absolute
+fact, that this poor negro had been so confined, without being allowed a
+morsel of food, for three days; and with the additional cruelty of being
+burnt across the fleshy parts of his person at repeated intervals, with
+red-hot iron. Could such a mode of torture have suggested itself to any
+other mind than that of a blacksmith? which was the occupation followed
+by the depraved monster, into whose fiery hands it was the lot of this
+unfortunate African to have fallen!
+
+The dreadful tale being reported to the commandant, a file of the guard
+was instantly marched to the house, with orders to release the sufferer;
+and quickly, with the irons and cords remaining upon his limbs, he was
+led before the colonel and party, whose timely humanity had saved his
+life. His fetters were now removed; food and wine were offered to him;
+and he was soothed with the assurance that justice should be done to his
+cause: but his strength was so exhausted as scarcely to admit of
+restoration! Upon swallowing a morsel of bread, moistened with wine and
+water, the effect upon his famished stomach was so painful as to produce
+extreme distress, and he nearly fainted: but, after a little time, he
+was so much recovered by the kind attentions of the commandant and his
+friends, as to be sensible of the anxieties of those about him; and,
+when questioned regarding the crime which had provoked this horrid
+punishment, it proved that he was utterly ignorant for what fault, or
+upon what pretence, he had been treated with such savage barbarity!
+
+The hardened wretch, his master, was examined as to the nature of the
+offence which had urged him to this frightful example of cruelty.
+Whether his consciousness of the insignificance of the alleged
+misdemeanor, or the dread of the requital he merited, prevented him from
+avowing it, I could not learn, but he persisted in the most obstinate
+silence respecting it, and replied only by confused and hurried appeals,
+piteously imploring the commandant to pardon him, and beseeching that he
+might not be subjected to the ignominy of a personal punishment. His
+agitation was excessive: forgetful how grievously he had debased himself
+by his outrageous conduct, the apprehension of being exposed to the
+degradation of a corporal chastisement so entirely possessed his mind,
+that no direct answer could be obtained from him; every reply being an
+humble petition for mercy, or an anxious supplication not to be
+stigmatized with the disgraceful retribution, which he seemed conscious
+that he deserved.
+
+It was the general opinion that he had been instigated to this act of
+deliberate cruelty by some trivial fault, which he was ashamed to
+acknowledge as the cause of such direful malice; but, as I left the
+colony the following morning, I had no opportunity of ascertaining
+whether he was afterwards brought to confess what was the real or
+pretended offence, which the savage had deemed it fit to avenge with
+such horrid inhumanity.
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXIX.
+
+
+                                                       St. Pierre, June.
+
+The whole of May, and the early part of the present month were dry and
+fine at Martinique; although, last year, at Demarara, we observed that
+the rainy period set in as early as the middle of April. Here, scarcely
+any rain fell until the 11th inst. when the clouds poured forth their
+heavy streams. It is now considered to be the wet season; yet, so slight
+are the marks of it, between the showers; and so very different was the
+whole face of the country, in Guiana, during the rains of this part of
+the year, that, upon comparison, we might still imagine it to be the dry
+season.
+
+For several months past I have been free from the annoyance of the
+prickly heat; but, upon this return of the rainy weather, my surface is
+again covered with it. We have great comfort in perceiving that the
+insects are fewer here than in Guiana, where the tribes of flying and
+creeping things constitute as great a plague as formerly in the land of
+Egypt. The musquitoes, in particular, are far less troublesome than we
+found them last year. They do not seem to like us so well, nor is the
+effect of their bitings half so severe. Upon our arrival at Demarara,
+soon after we came from Europe, these little buzzing tormentors almost
+devoured us. If we were not well protected against them, during the
+night, we rose in the morning with our faces so bitten and swollen, that
+we were scarcely able to see. Now, we sleep upon open beds, without the
+protection of gauze curtains, or any other defence; and if a chance
+musquito happen to fix upon us, the wounded part neither inflames nor
+rises into an itching tumour, as was the case in Guiana.
+
+Perhaps, from this fact, an argument might be adduced in proof of the
+inflammatory nature of that sad malady of climate, called yellow fever;
+which, like the musquitoes, assails new-comers in violent and continued
+attack; but when they have become acclimated, annoys them only in
+weakened and intermitted seizures. While the European strength and
+firmness of fibre remain, the bites of musquitoes produce inflammation
+and painful hardness; but when the frame has become relaxed and
+enfeebled by long exposure to heat, the same effect does not follow: so
+of fever—when it afflicts persons recently arrived, and still possessing
+the rigid fibre, and strong arterial resistance of a milder temperature,
+it assumes a continued and inflammatory form; but when it invades the
+languid relaxed creoles, or creolised, a lower degree of diseased action
+is induced, and the disorder appears under a remittent or an
+intermittent type.
+
+The eleventh instant was observed at St. Pierre as a day of high
+religious festival, being what is termed La Fête de Dieu. A splendid
+procession took place on the occasion, which afforded us a favorable
+opportunity of witnessing the gaudy parade of Catholic ceremonies. The
+long and pompous train moved in deep solemnity through the streets,
+making occasional pauses, for the twofold purpose of giving rest to the
+attendants, and being viewed by the wondering populace.
+
+A grand altar was raised, in La rue Precipice, at only a short distance
+from the house where I reside, so that I could observe, from my window,
+every part of the procession. I noted the order in which it moved, at
+the moment it was passing before me; and now send you a fair copy, that
+you may judge of the stateliness and splendour which mark the religious
+observances of this little island.
+
+The procession moved through the streets in the following order: first
+appeared
+
+                               TWO BOYS,
+
+dressed in white cassocks, carrying long rods or staves, richly
+ornamented, with a picture of the Virgin and child suspended between
+them. Next came
+
+                              THREE BOYS,
+
+the one in the middle clad in white, and bearing a silver crucifix;
+those at the sides, clothed in red, decorated with white crosses, and
+supporting each a massive candelabrum, in which blazed a huge wax taper.
+Following these were
+
+                       FORTY-EIGHT LITTLE GIRLS,
+
+in pairs, very beautifully dressed in white and flowers, with white
+crowns upon their heads, and carrying green boughs. The next were
+
+                     THREE PAIRS OF BOYS AND GIRLS,
+
+in red and white flowered tunics, and bearing large tapers. These were
+followed by
+
+                            AN AGED PRIEST,
+
+robed in white, with a small silver bell in his hand:
+
+                     THREE PAIRS OF BOYS AND GIRLS,
+
+habited as the others, succeeded. Then came
+
+                           FORTY-EIGHT GIRLS,
+
+somewhat older than the preceding, neatly dressed in white, their brows
+encircled with garlands of flowers, each bearing a large taper decorated
+with flowers. Next to these was
+
+                          A PARTY OF SOLDIERS,
+
+under arms, followed by
+
+                            A MILITARY BAND,
+
+with music playing. Behind the band were
+
+                              AN OLD NEGRO
+
+and
+
+                             FIVE PRIESTS,
+
+in white robes, ornamented with flowered crosses, and carrying large
+tapers. After these came
+
+                              TWO PRIESTS,
+
+of venerable years, in similar but more splendid attire, also bearing
+large tapers. To these succeeded
+
+                        TWENTY-FOUR YOUNG GIRLS,
+
+very superbly dressed, carrying baskets of flowers.
+
+From this point the line of procession was supported by a file of
+colonial troops, under arms. The first between the military lines, and
+following the twelve pairs of females, were
+
+                               FOUR BOYS,
+
+handsomely clad in white, each bearing a silver censer, smoking with
+incense, and suspended by a long silver chain, to the length of which
+the censers being simultaneously thrown at intervals, in an elevated
+direction, clouded the air with perfume. The next were
+
+                           FOUR YOUNG GIRLS,
+
+carrying silver vessels of different shapes, enclosing incense. To these
+succeeded other
+
+                               FOUR BOYS,
+
+each bearing, like the former, a silver censer. Next to these followed
+
+                             EIGHT FEMALES,
+
+supporting sable plumes, waving on staves adorned with flowers. Behind
+these came
+
+                           A MILITARY OFFICER
+
+and
+
+                          A VENERABLE PRIEST,
+
+immediately preceding
+
+                              THE CANOPY,
+
+covering a coffin, which was the great and interesting object of the
+procession. Consequently the canopy was most conspicuous in the
+costliness and splendour of its decorations. It was formed of crimson
+velvet, bordered with gold, supported by four pillars, richly gilt and
+ornamented, at each corner, with plumes of white feathers. In the front
+of it was painted a wide-expanded eye, as a type to signify the
+omniscience and omnipresence of the Deity, who sees, rules, and governs
+over all. Within the canopy were
+
+                          THREE OTHER PRIESTS,
+
+in splendid copes, each reading a small book, which rested, together
+with their hands, upon
+
+                              THE COFFIN,
+
+placed also under the canopy, directly before them.
+
+                        PARTY OF COLONIAL TROOPS
+
+were the bearers of the canopy, four of them supporting it alternately
+at the corners. Immediately behind it was
+
+                        A NUMEROUS BODY OF MEN,
+
+clothed in black; and, following these,
+
+                         A COMPANY OF SOLDIERS,
+
+under arms, who closed the procession.
+
+A great multitude of people, men, women, and children, of various hues
+and ages (but mostly coloured females), thronged after in a deep train,
+pressing close upon the soldiers, and quite filling the streets.
+
+The altar was enriched with profuse decorations of silks, ribands,
+flowers, silver vessels, trinkets, and burning tapers. It was also
+decked out with flags, and other species of drapery, and covered with a
+magnificent awning. The streets had likewise assumed the gay costume of
+the procession, being enlivened at various parts with ensigns,
+streamers, and many-coloured ornaments; and the appearance of cool and
+verdant avenues was ingeniously conveyed, by dressing the fronts of the
+houses with green boughs.
+
+The part of the procession which preceded the canopy, passed under the
+awning, and advanced beyond it; but when the hallowed equipage reached
+the spot where the altar was raised, a sudden pause ensued, the band
+ceased to play, and a few words were shouted aloud by the old negro,
+which the priests echoed, in soul-inspiring sounds, from the steps of
+the altar.
+
+Presently was heard a tinkling of the little silver bell. This acted
+like enchantment. Instantly a dead silence prevailed; and all the
+persons forming the procession, together with the multitudes who
+followed it, fell on their knees, upon the bare street. A solemn
+stillness continued, until the sound of the bell was renewed; when the
+crowd as suddenly rose from the ground; the boys, bearing the censers,
+cast them out, to the extremities of their chains, before the altar,
+perfuming the air with incense; flowers were strewed around; the band
+again played, and the procession advanced.
+
+As soon as the whole of the train had passed, the altar was disrobed of
+its ornaments, the houses were deprived of theirs, and the undressed
+street resumed its every-day appearance.
+
+But, notwithstanding this seeming conclusion of the scene, the parade
+was continued daily through the different parts of the town, until the
+end of the week. On the 22d, which was the close of the fête, the
+procession again appeared in our street, moving much in the same order
+as before: but the attendant crowd, particularly the female part of it,
+was even greater than on the preceding occasion; nor do I remember ever
+to have observed such hosts of women assembled. Not only was the street
+closely thronged from side to side, but spectators were likewise
+collected in every by-lane and avenue, and all the windows were filled
+with multitudes, pressing forward to catch a farewell view.
+
+Taking a walk in the evening, I met with several new and decorative
+marks of the fête. In one of the streets was erected, with great taste
+and ingenuity, a green arbour or alcove, very beautifully formed of
+coco-nut leaves; with various plants and fruits of the climate. The
+arrangement was rich and elegant, offering a sumptuous and inviting
+repast, in a delightfully refreshing shade, while it formed one of the
+greatest ornaments of the festival. Two banana-trees were fixed at the
+entrance, and appeared as if they were actually growing upon the spot:
+every part was green, and all the plants were arranged as if they were
+then vegetating from the earth, each loaded with its appropriate fruit.
+It seemed as if a choice assemblage of the most delicious productions of
+the country had been formed into a sweet and cool bower, wherein the
+superiors engaged in the ceremony might retire from the meridian rays,
+to take rest and regale themselves: but, upon inquiry, we learned that
+this grateful assortment was not intended for such gross and carnal
+purposes—it was designed for more holy uses. It was not to gratify the
+flesh, nor to pamper the senses: but was collected together, and placed
+in this seductive manner, in the way of the procession, in order that
+the fruits might be sanctified by a passing benediction; and rendered
+doubly sacred in consequence of the ceremony being performed under the
+omniscient eye of the canopy. Multitudes of persons had contributed
+towards this hallowed collection, and, after the holy sprinkling had
+shed its solemn influence upon them, the blessed fruits were removed by
+their respective owners, and taken home as an inestimable treasure.
+
+How long shall the sanctity of religion be masked with such idle pomp?
+How long shall such vain parade mock the simplicity of a pure and
+Christian devotion?
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER XL.
+
+
+                                                  Martinique, July 1797.
+
+Daily experience more and more confirms the observation, that the
+prominent features of character, seen among the European French, obtain
+likewise amidst the creole and other residents in their colonies. In
+England, it is not confined to the vulgar to regard the terms Frenchman
+and petit-maître as words of synonymous import; nor can it be denied, by
+the warmest advocate for Gallic pretensions, that an air of frivolity
+prevails among the French people, as a part of their national character.
+The same is likewise observable among the inhabitants of their
+settlements. Various causes probably act in combination to produce this
+prominent trait among them. It commences with their infancy, and
+connects with their earliest education.
+
+The French people prescribe to themselves rules of health and of
+regimen. They seem neither to eat, to move, to act, nor to think
+according to nature: all is artificial, and _le petit remède_ is as
+necessary as the pap or the breakfast. From the cradle they are taught
+_de se soigner, de se menager!_ and habit begets a mode of
+self-discipline which puts nature to the blush!
+
+But let me return to the circumstance which has led to these remarks. A
+few evenings ago, walking with some gentlemen of the hospital
+department, upon the public promenade, we observed a party of French
+boys, not amusing themselves with racing and rude gambols, like the
+youths of England, but collected into a group, discussing rules of
+health, and of diet, with all the zeal of practised nurses, or timid
+hypochondriacs. The peculiarity of the conversation having excited our
+curiosity, we were induced to listen to them with attention, and were
+not less surprised at the acuteness and discrimination of these youthful
+disputants, than amused at their subject, and the grave manner in which
+they had been taught to discuss it.
+
+To avoid hurtful excesses, and observe such moderation as may be
+necessary for the preservation of health, is, at all times, advisable;
+but to teach children to debate, like pedantic pretenders in medicine,
+whether oatmeal-gruel be better than rice-gruel—barley-water more
+wholesome than toast and water—veal-broth than chicken-broth; whether it
+be best for the health to dine at half after twelve, or at one
+o’clock—whether plantains produce more humours than bananas—whether it
+be most proper for the constitution to put a bit of carrot or of turnip
+into the soup, is to bring them up such ineffable triflers, that they
+can be fit society only for invalids and aged females. The best mode of
+preparing a basin of soup-maigre, and which vegetables may be boiled in
+it with least danger of _inflaming the blood_, or forming too many
+_humours_, would afford conversation for half a dozen Frenchmen, for as
+many hours; and from the eagerness betrayed in the debate, a person
+might be led to imagine that they must be occupied upon a subject of not
+less consequence than apportioning allotments of the Turkish or the
+Austrian empire.
+
+After we had been amused with the conversation of these boys, upon
+petit-bouillon, soup-maigre, eau-de-poulet, ptisan, and the like, we sat
+a short time with a party of French ladies, when soup and sickness, bile
+and humours, were again made the subject of discourse. An Englishman,
+who was present, happened to put a knife to a small pine, with the
+intention of dividing it among the party, when the French ladies all
+rose, with uplifted hands, to prevent it, exclaiming in broken English,
+“Eat anane at night!”—“Dat shall you make sick.”—“Cela vous fera mal au
+ventre.”—“It is no good for eat anane at night.”—“If it you shall eat,
+dat vill make much humours in de morning! Non! put it away, you shall
+not you-self kill!”
+
+With all these minutiæ we do not find that they have better health, or
+live to a greater age, than those of the English who are temperate; the
+only striking advantage that we observe to arise, from this great
+attention to little things, is, that the French, both men and women,
+make most excellent nurses, being minutely assiduous and useful about
+the sick: and let me do them the justice to add, that I have never found
+any other people equally kind and compassionate towards persons
+afflicted with disease, whether their friends, their countrymen, or
+strangers.
+
+With very sincere grief I have to announce to you fatal tidings of our
+poor commissary of accompts, Mr. Dornford, whom I mentioned to you in a
+former letter; and in whose fate I feel the liveliest sorrow.
+Notwithstanding the opinion of the learned Père Edouard respecting his
+progressive convalescence, he was advised to proceed, without loss of
+time, either to Europe or to North America: but, like too many others in
+sickness, pleading the usual round of negatives, he urged his worldly
+affairs as an insurmountable obstacle to the means recommended: viewing
+only the difficulties of absenting himself from his calling, the time
+necessary for performing a voyage to England or America appeared to him
+quite an age; nor was it until he was assured, by his own disordered
+feelings, that he must be soon removed from these and all other duties
+for ever, if he continued longer at Martinique, that he was at last
+prevailed upon to adopt the alternative of going to sea, and sailing
+about from one island to another. But, alas! the event has proved that
+it was too late for either the greater or the lesser means to be
+employed with effect.
+
+The commissary-general very kindly accommodated Mr. Dornford with a
+commodious vessel, which had been fitted up in a superior manner, for
+his own use. In this he took his departure for Barbadoes, from whence he
+was to extend his voyage to various other islands. But, unfortunately,
+he there suffered a renewed attack, became much worse, was unable to
+pursue his voyage, and returned with all speed to Martinique, in the
+determination of going directly, with the fleet, to England. But it
+happened that the convoy had sailed the very morning of the day upon
+which he arrived. This was a grievous disappointment to him, the
+increase of malady, which he had experienced at Barbadoes, having
+generated the most serious alarm, and caused him, at length, to feel
+assured that there was no chance of his recovery, except from an
+immediate removal to a colder climate: but his professional attendants
+saw that it was now too late! They regarded it as a fortunate
+circumstance that the fleet had sailed, and that he escaped the hurry
+and agitation of going on board, where he would most likely have died
+before the ship could have left the harbour.
+
+The alarming symptoms which supervened at Barbadoes, had given a new
+character to the disease, and proved that the system had suffered more
+injury than even the most apprehensive had imagined. A purulent diarrhœa
+and expectoration had suddenly taken place, and the already debilitated
+frame was rapidly sinking under their continuance. His attendants had
+only the sorrowful consolation of contemplating a departing friend, and
+all that remained to them was to watch his rapid decline, soothing the
+few short hours which might yet be spared him from the grave. On the
+26th of June he landed at St. Pierre. In six days after, a final
+exhaustion ensued; and, on the 1st of July, he was no more.
+
+I was requested to attend the funeral, and notwithstanding the
+distressful feelings I always experience from witnessing the awful
+solemnity, I could not refuse myself the melancholy gratification of
+joining in this last duty to so valued a man. Many officers of the staff
+and garrison paid the same tribute of respect to his remains, and the
+splendid, yet doleful procession, from his house to the place of
+interment, formed one of the most impressive and affecting scenes I ever
+beheld.
+
+Upon examining the body, it was discovered that a large abscess had
+formed within the right lobe of the liver; which, from the inflammation
+having extended to the contiguous parts, had ulcerated into the
+intestines, and also through the diaphragm into the substance of the
+lungs; a circumstance which fully explained the symptoms of the few last
+days, while it proved that no effectual remedy was within the reach of
+human skill.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLI.
+
+
+                                                       Martinique, July.
+
+We are waiting in daily and tiresome suspense the arrival of the packet,
+or some other vessel by which we may proceed to St. Domingo. For a long
+time past we have understood that our services have been urgently
+required at the place of our destination, yet we are still detained in a
+state of uncertainty, rendered doubly tedious by our being without any
+regular employment.
+
+In the failure of the expected packets, we had, lately, almost prevailed
+upon ourselves to accept births on board a slave-ship, going down to
+Jamaica, with a cargo of negroes from the coast of Guinea: but, upon
+inspecting the accommodations of the vessel, we found that nothing short
+of absolute necessity could induce us to submit our persons to a
+situation so filthy and abhorrent. The best sleeping-birth that could
+have been allotted to us, was upon the open deck, over the stench
+arising from a crowd of blacks crammed into the cabin; and, during the
+day, we must have herded in common with the slaves. This was not to be
+endured: we accordingly returned on shore, to wait for a better
+conveyance.
+
+Busy rumour keeps pace with our eager expectations, and each morning
+brings us tidings of the sailing of a packet from England; the packet’s
+arrival; or of some vessel having spoken the packet at sea. We listen
+anxiously to these reports; but, hitherto, they have uniformly
+disappointed us.
+
+In my letters from these regions, I have occasionally alluded to the sad
+inaction of mind and disposition, which obtains among that numerous
+class of people, the slaves: the leading trait of whose character may be
+said to be indolence, engrafted upon an obdurate and inflexible
+perverseness: perhaps the necessary consequence of inveterate ignorance
+and insensibility, and the natural result of the degraded state in which
+they are held.
+
+An European, unaccustomed to the scenes, and unacquainted with the
+effects of slavery, cannot have a just idea of the extreme carelessness
+and obstinacy of the negroes: qualities which become highly vexatious
+and tormenting to the whites, in their intercourse with them; and which
+disturb, almost to madness, the irritability of those who are but
+slightly removed from the Africans.
+
+Only a few days ago I witnessed a strong instance of this, in a lofty
+mulatto dame, who was provoked to a decree of almost frantic violence by
+the insuperable heedlessness and apathy of her darker attendants: but I
+should not have regarded a mere fit of rage, in a lady of a tawny, or a
+fairer hue, a circumstance worth relating, if her fury had not been
+succeeded by some calmer effusions, which strictly coincided with what
+must have been observed by every one who has had the misfortune to be
+much concerned with slaves.
+
+I found this proud female, foaming in all the high tempest of wrath,
+bitterly scolding, and loudly bewailing the stupidity of her sable gang,
+vowing that (notwithstanding she was only a single remove from them
+herself) she thought them “even more stupid than brutes,” insisting that
+it was “absolutely impossible to govern them without the frequent aid of
+the whip,” and declaring that, however often they might be required to
+do the same thing, it was “invariably necessary still to repeat the
+order every time!”
+
+My own experience has so fully confirmed the latter part of the remark,
+and I have so repeatedly felt the annoyance, arising from this source,
+that I have actually learned to compassionate those whose lot it is to
+be served by slaves, in nearly the same proportion as I pay these poor
+degraded beings themselves.
+
+Another leading feature in the character of the people of colour
+manifests itself in their cruelty to each other; and as our
+correspondence is not limited to the bare statement of general
+circumstances, I proceed, according to my epistolary privilege, to lay
+before you an example in point.
+
+I have already given you specimens of this disposition, as exhibited in
+the savage fightings of these people: but it betrays itself likewise in
+their conduct towards their children and slaves, whose submissive
+forbearance is often not less remarkable than the intemperate severity
+of their parents and owners; and might be expected to disarm them of
+their cruelty, if it were not that the gloomy ignorance of slavery
+supplies neither rein nor curb to passion, but leaves it to expand
+itself in unchecked ferocity upon the offender.
+
+An old mulatto woman, and her daughter, of somewhat fairer skin than
+herself, are living in the house opposite to my lodgings, and I
+frequently find the quiet of my dwelling disturbed by the loud cries of
+the one, and the boisterous stormings of the other. On a late occasion
+of correcting her daughter, this unfeeling old beldam exhibited a degree
+of inhumanity, which, I trust, is peculiar to the regions of slavery.
+
+The daughter is a grown-up woman, and is tall and strong as the parent,
+who, nevertheless, still exercises the full privilege of chastising her.
+In consequence of her not submitting quite so patiently as was usual,
+the old fury snatched up pieces of wood, iron, or any other coarse
+weapon within her reach, and cut her upon the head until the blood
+streamed down her face: but, not satisfied with this, she afterwards
+pursued the punishment by tying her hands with a strong cord, and
+flogging her with the cow-skin until she submitted without repining, and
+most humbly implored her parent’s pardon. After receiving the hard blows
+and lacerations upon her head, the poor girl stood, without offering the
+slightest resistance, to have her hands fastened, and to endure the
+lashing of the cow-skin, seeming to acknowledge it a right in the mother
+to punish her, although she had lived to years of maturity, and had
+strength enough to have tossed the old miscreant out at the window.
+
+Upon inquiry I learned that this hardened wretch had bred up her
+daughter in habits of idleness, and now treated her in this barbarous
+manner because she was unacquainted with the toils of industry.
+
+Among the novel circumstances, which have occurred to our observation, I
+may mention the mode of feeding mules in this island. Taking a walk into
+the country a few evenings ago with one of my comrades, we passed the
+house of a planter, where we saw, in the yard before the negro-huts, a
+herd of mules, waiting near two large iron sugar-boilers, filled with
+water, and running from one to the other. These vessels seemed to have
+been placed as reservoirs, purposely for their use. Both of them were
+full, and the water appeared to be clear and pure, yet, notwithstanding
+the mules betrayed strong marks of thirst, not one of them ventured to
+drink. They put their noses to the liquid, then started from the vessel
+that contained it, and ran to the other. After smelling of this in a
+similar manner, they hurried back again to the first, and thus continued
+going from one to the other, without tasting the water in either of
+them! Singular as it may seem, the purity of the fluid was the cause of
+their refusing to take it.
+
+Seeing them reject the water, and yet run first to one vessel, and then
+to the other in continued succession, as if eager to drink, we were
+curious to observe how they were to be satisfied. Presently appeared two
+slaves, bearing large jars of melasses, which they emptied into the
+reservoirs. Still the mules only put their noses to them, and ran from
+one to the other without tasting the contents of either. We continued
+watching in order to discover what further was necessary to make the
+drink palatable to them. At length came a negro boy with a long stick,
+and stirred up the melasses, mixing it well with the water, upon which
+all the mules instantly swallowed it with the greatest eagerness, biting
+and kicking each other violently in their contest which should reach the
+deepest draught.
+
+We learned from the slaves, that these animals had been so accustomed to
+have their drink sweetened, that they would not taste it until the
+melasses was put into the vessels, and stirred from the bottom, so as to
+be well mixed with the water. What was the real or fancied advantage of
+this seemingly extravagant indulgence, these poor ignorant blacks were
+unable to inform us.
+
+Being a circumstance not familiar to Englishmen, I may tell you that it
+is common to see frogs brought in baskets, and exposed for sale in the
+public market at Martinique. One of large growth is usually suspended
+over the stall by way of signal, implying that his croaking comrades may
+there be purchased.
+
+Among the peculiarities of Martinique, I may also notice its celebrated
+noyeau, that delicious _liqueur_ for which the island is in such high
+repute; and which is so exquisitely prepared at the house of Madame la
+Grande-maison, whose cellars I have visited, in order to taste this
+favorite composition in its original purity.
+
+I have also had an opportunity of seeing the noyeau-tree, which, in its
+wood, its leaf, and its growth, very much resembles a standard
+peach-tree. Unfortunately, it is not at this season in blossom, or in
+fruit, so that I could only observe the leaf, which in taste strongly
+resembles the bitter almond, and might serve instead of the nut, the
+part commonly used, to give that fine flavour for which this favorite
+liquor is so much esteemed.
+
+Among the customs which differ from those of Europe, I may mention that
+of making a high compensation for medical attendance and remedies in
+sickness. It is not common, here, for those of the healing art to be
+employed exclusively as physicians. They more frequently engage in all
+the different branches of the profession; and the whole body of them
+being termed “Doctors,” they both receive the fee, and vend the
+medicines: and so liberal is the remuneration, that if a colonial
+practitioner can preserve his health, and obtain a tolerable share of
+employment, he may rapidly accumulate a fortune.
+
+In St. Pierre the medical attendant receives, from his patient, two or
+three dollars for each visit, besides demanding the following rate of
+charges for his remedies, which he, of course, supplies at his own
+discretion:
+
+           viz. a draught, or a dose of salts            6s.
+                a mixture                       14s. or 15s.
+                a pill                                   2s.
+                a quart bottle of bark infusion 25s. or 30s.
+
+powders, boluses, and all other formulæ in proportion.
+
+A medical man from the north of Tweed, who is now in busy employment
+here, assures me that these are his lowest prices, even to common
+sailors, who are brought sick on shore, or to whom he is called, on
+board the vessels in the bay. I was equally surprised and distressed to
+hear it; for it is evident that, in such cases, the patient must soon
+die of the disease, or be ruined by the expense of his remedies!
+
+From the fatiguing duties of his occupation, the life of a practitioner
+in medicine, in these regions, is held upon a very precarious tenure. It
+is fit, therefore, that he should be handsomely rewarded for his
+services, in order to put him upon an equality with the opulent
+inhabitants and successful traders around him; and to afford him a
+similar chance of acquiring an early independency, that he may return to
+Europe before his health be destroyed, or he fall a victim to the
+arduous duties of his calling. But it would be consistent with justice
+and humanity to discriminate; for it is avaricious and unbecoming to
+exact the scanty earnings from a less successful adventurer, who, when
+suffering upon the bed of sickness, appeals alike to the skill and
+compassion of his professional attendant.
+
+Let the planter, the agent, or the merchant, enriched by rapid gain,
+contribute amply, and share his profits with the preserver of his
+health; but let humanity dictate the acceptance of the more honorable
+reward of a liberal profession from the less wealthy, who reaps not
+himself the harvest of his perilous toil.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLII.
+
+
+                                                   At Sea, Aug. 1, 1797.
+
+From the unsteady ocean, my pen eagerly announces to you that, after our
+tedious suspense, we are at length embarked on board the Roebuck packet,
+and proceeding on our passage to Jamaica.
+
+We pay ten guineas each for our births, food, drink, and all other
+necessaries included. To the credit of the captain, the mess is
+liberally supplied, being furnished with an ample store of excellent
+provisions, and various sorts of wines. It is usually a passage of six
+or seven days, being what is termed “a pleasant run down the trades,”
+and consequently the finest sailing that is known: but, after all the
+trials to which I have been exposed, I have not yet discovered that a
+sea voyage can be made tolerable. To me the heaving water is itself the
+bane of every comfort: even under this best and smoothest sailing, my
+afflicted head and sickened stomach cause me to look anxiously for a
+more settled element; and all my feelings more and more convince me that
+the only circumstance which can render a passage by sea, in any way,
+supportable is the anticipation of reaching a desired, and destined
+shore.
+
+We left Martinique on Wednesday, July 26th. A breeze sprang up in the
+course of the first night, carrying us steadily on, without shifting a
+sail, at the rate of seven knots an hour. On the third morning of our
+passage, a strange sail was descried on our lee quarter, apparently
+standing towards us, and gaining rapidly upon our vessel. It proved to
+be a privateer, and we had the prospect of being conducted to a French
+prison.
+
+Being determined to resist if we should be attacked, the Roebuck was
+instantly converted into a scene of spirited activity: but it not being
+the duty of a packet to create delay, by inviting a combat, provided she
+can outsail her antagonist, and proceed upon her passage, due
+preparation was made both for running and fighting. Every possible sail
+was set, the boarding-nets were put up, the sides and quarters deeply
+lined with hammocks, canvass, and other materials to protect the men
+from the fire of musketry; the guns were made ready, the swivels
+pointed, and while every yard was got up, and every inch of canvass
+stretched, all was cleared for action. The vessel was not manned equal
+to a privateer; but we were a strong body of passengers, and not feeling
+it a question of indifference whether to resist or be taken, it was
+unanimously resolved, that in case we could not escape by flight, the
+vessel should be fought to the last extremity.
+
+Amidst the hurry, a scene occurred, which was highly ludicrous, and
+afforded the sailors much amusement. Some of the passengers, with due
+regard to the rapacity of the enemy, had recourse to an extraordinary
+method of preserving their property. They ran to their trunks and
+coffers, upon the first alarm, and took out their valuables in the form
+of belts, and bandages, and waistcoats, and other articles of apparel,
+all lined or quilted with gold and silver coins, and, stripping off
+their common clothing, cased themselves in these metallic garments,
+covering them with as many suits of their best clothes, as could be
+drawn one over the other, until their figures assumed the grotesque
+appearance of Dutch boatmen.
+
+A French gentleman of venerable years, whose limbs had almost lost their
+motive power, drew on, with the assistance of his sable dulcinea,
+triplicates of apparel, and thus equipped, sat down and passed an
+interval of suspense, muttering the expletive _Sacre! Sacre!_ and other
+Gallic imprecations against the men in the tops, for not sooner
+discovering the privateer; or, in other words, for not seeing her before
+she was in sight!
+
+We hauled upon a wind, and stood away more to the north—our pursuer did
+the same, and still appeared to gain upon us. But about two o’clock the
+breeze freshened, and the Roebuck sailing best upon a wind, we soon
+began to distance our enemy. Before dinner-time we were evidently
+getting a-head of the privateer, and the party sat down in restored
+composure to their meal. In the evening, we had lost the view of our
+adversary from the body of the ship, and on the following morning, the
+vessel was no longer in sight, even from the topmast head; we therefore
+continued our course. It is now the sixth day of our passage; and at
+noon we were said to be under the lee of St. Domingo, distant about
+thirty-eight leagues from Jamaica. To-morrow, if the breeze continue,
+and we meet with no new disaster, we hope to drop our Anchor at
+Port-Royal.
+
+                                                         _Jamaica, Aug._
+
+I resume my pen, in order to finish the letter which I began upon the
+voyage. Taking up the subject in continuation, I may tell you that the
+dawn of the first of August opened to us the mountains of Jamaica, and
+exhibited a picturesque view of the island, throughout an extent of
+thirty miles, as we sailed along the shore. At the part near Port-Morant
+we observed the land to be in high cultivation nearly to the water’s
+edge. It runs back in undulating ridges to a considerable distance, and
+terminates in gigantic hills, which appear from the seaview to thrust
+the cultivated fields upon the very brink of the ocean.
+
+Approaching nearer to Port-Royal, a great part of the coast seemed to be
+rough and ungenial, neither offering the rich fertility, nor the
+exquisite landscapes we had been taught to look for in the island of
+Jamaica.
+
+The stupendous range of blue mountains presented an aspect of boldness
+and sublimity; but upon carefully viewing the shore, as we passed along,
+we thought it much inferior, in point of picturesque effect, to the
+delightfully varied, but smaller island of Martinique.
+
+The entrance of Port-Royal harbour, with the view of Kingston, the wide
+plain on which it stands, and the towering mountains behind it, might
+have appeared very grand and striking, if we had arrived from a less
+interesting spot than the bay of St. Pierre; but the recollection of
+this eclipsed all the fine scenery before us.
+
+On coming to anchor I went on shore at Port-Royal, in order to make
+inquiries respecting a conveyance to Cape St. Nicholas Mole. Upon
+stepping out of the boat I found the heat greater than I had felt it, in
+any climate, before: indeed the scorching rays reflected from the white
+sand, seemed actually to burn my face as I walked along.
+
+Not meeting with any success, I returned to the ship, and quickly
+afterwards accompanied the captain and some of the passengers, in a
+large open boat with sails, to Kingston. This was a run of seven miles.
+From the breeze being strong, and the water rough, we were very early
+made to taste the salt sprays of Jamaica; and were more wetted and
+tossed about, in this petty passage, than we had been during the whole
+of the voyage from Martinique. A great crowd of people thronged about
+us, the instant we reached the landing-place, eagerly inquiring for
+news, no packet having arrived in the course of the last ten weeks.
+
+The general face of Kingston appeared widely different from the pleasant
+town of St. Pierre. It is not so handsome, nor does it so much resemble
+the venerable cities of Europe: but it is built with more regard to the
+climate; the general plan of it being better adapted to a tropical
+country. The streets are spacious. They run in straight lines, crossing
+each other at right angles, preserving a regular and uniform figure. The
+houses are commodious, and, from not being crowded together, a free
+ventilation is every where preserved. They are mostly of brick, but some
+are only of wood. They have commonly a shaded gallery or piazza in the
+front, or entirely round them, which tends to keep them cool within,
+while it affords to the inhabitants, at all times of the day, a pleasant
+retreat from the sun. The dwellings have another, and peculiar
+convenience in being allowed a sufficiency of land about them for the
+purposes of a yard, stabling, offices, outhouses, and the like. But the
+streets are the very reverse of the buildings, not yielding any sort of
+relief or protection. Being spacious is all they can boast, for they are
+deeply covered with loose sand, and are consequently hot, dusty, and
+disagreeable in an extreme degree. Those whose lot it is either to walk,
+or ride along them have no means of escape from these burning sands,
+which serve to convert a large, and otherwise pleasant town into the
+semblance of a scorching desert. The piazzas before the houses might
+have been easily connected, so as to have formed a continued and shaded
+walk throughout the whole of the town; but they are either railed in as
+private property, or made irregular and of unequal height, so as to
+prevent the pedestrians of these heated streets from availing themselves
+of the shelter they offer. Thus the public is deprived of an
+accommodation which might be had with facility; and which, in such a
+climate, would contribute greatly to the comfort and convenience of
+every individual.
+
+Kingston stands upon more ground, and may be said to be larger than St.
+Pierre; but the latter is far more populous, and contains perhaps a
+greater number of houses. After being accustomed to the gay and crowded
+streets of St. Pierre, Kingston has an air of dull quietude: but I am
+writing from first impressions, according to the plan I have pursued of
+noting circumstances as they occur to my observation; warning you,
+therefore, to make all the allowances which such a mode of communication
+requires, I proceed to tell you that the few people we meet upon the
+streets, appear very different from those of the same classes, whom we
+have been accustomed to see at the island we have recently left. Their
+dress is not so neat, their manner is less cultivated, and they have not
+the same air of cleanliness about them. The common people seem dirty,
+and have a loose neglected appearance which is not observable at
+Martinique. The people of colour differ, not only from those of the
+French colonies, but also from those of the Dutch and English
+settlements to windward. They preserve, in a degree, the costume of
+their Spanish predecessors. In place of the neat short jacket, or the
+white chemise and petticoat worn in the windward colonies, the women of
+colour at Kingston are, for the most part, clad in unsightly yellow
+petticoats, over which are hung loose and dirty bed-gowns. Upon the head
+is commonly a handkerchief of many colours, and far from clean—not put
+on with taste, as a turban, but pressed flat down with an ill-looking
+kind of man’s hat—the whole forming a very slovenly and unbecoming
+dress.
+
+The men, instead of appearing in a neat jacket, or a clean shirt and
+pantaloons, as at Martinique, are mostly habited in dirty, ragged
+trowsers, with a long shirt, or a kind of loose frock hanging part of
+the way over them. Upon mentioning these circumstances to a gentleman of
+Kingston, he remarked that this negligent and unseemly costume prevailed
+too generally “among the out-door slaves,” but that the house negroes
+were far neater, and better ordered.
+
+Indeed you will discover from what I have said of the town, that the
+very streets are unfavorable to cleanliness, for the filthy sand soon
+spreads itself over every part of a person’s apparel, and becomes
+extremely annoying to the eyes and the countenance.
+
+In walking through Kingston I observed an example of slavery unlike any
+that had met my eye to windward—sixteen or eighteen negroes linked in a
+sort of harness, and forming a regular team, were drawing an immense
+trunk of mahogany, conducted by a driver with a cart-whip, who went
+whistling at their side, and flogging them on, precisely as an English
+carter does his horses. Negroes are also seen working upon the streets,
+chained together in pairs. This we are told is established as a mode of
+punishment for slight offences and misdemeanors.
+
+These I beg you to regard as only the hasty observations of my first
+hours at Jamaica. If I should have an opportunity before we embark for
+St. Domingo, I will write again, and forward both letters by the next
+packet.
+
+                                                                  Adieu.
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XLIII.
+
+
+                                                        Jamaica, August.
+
+The delay in meeting with a conveyance to St. Domingo has afforded me
+the means of seeing more of Jamaica than I had ventured to hope.
+
+On the sixth inst. Mr. Jordan and myself went to visit Spanish Town, or
+St. Jago de la Vega, the metropolis of Jamaica. We hired an open chaise,
+and availed ourselves of the early part of the morning. The distance
+from Kingston is thirteen miles, and the ride uncommonly pleasant, the
+road being as good as those in England, and the bordering scenery more
+like Europe than any I had before met with in these western settlements.
+A toll-gate is established; regular mile-stones mark the approach to the
+capital; bridges are built over the brooks and rivulets; carts, waggons,
+chaises, and horsemen, are seen passing and repassing; and on each hand
+are enclosed fields, with herds of oxen and sheep grazing in fine
+pastures.
+
+At the road-side we saw many neat houses; and, dispersed about the
+fields, numbers of country villas, some of which were built upon wide
+plains, decorated with trees and thorn-bushes like the finely studded
+parks of England, the umbrageous branches of the wide-spreading
+silk-cotton rivalling the picturesque and sturdy oak: the soft herbage
+and refreshing verdure of the English lawns were indeed wanting, but the
+arid aspect of the fields was, in a great measure, to be attributed to
+the peculiar dryness of the season; which has been so remarkable at
+Jamaica, that, while mild rains have produced the greatest fertility,
+and richness of appearance in the colonies to windward, this island is
+scorched so bare, that, at many of the pens or mountain farms, they have
+been compelled either to kill their cattle, or drive them into the
+interior, to prevent them from perishing by famine.
+
+We were two hours on the road, and were exceedingly gratified with the
+journey. Besides the fields, the plains, the valleys, and the cooling
+streams, many stern rocks, and cloud-capped mountains vary the face of
+the country, and increase the general interest of the scene.
+
+From the excellent condition of the road, its conveniences and
+accommodations, the number of passengers, and the busy traffic, it might
+have seemed the approach to a crowded and opulent city; and, compared
+with the still coast of Guiana, we might have fancied that we were
+advancing to another London: but, such an expectation would have proved
+illusory. Instead of handsome streets and magnificent buildings, the
+appearance of both was so humble, that when we had arrived in the centre
+of Spanish Town we imagined ourselves to be only in the suburbs; St.
+Jago de la Vega neither exhibiting the splendour of St. Pierre, nor the
+spaciousness of Kingston; nor did the crowd, or business of the place,
+at all correspond with the general movement and traffic which we had
+observed upon the road.
+
+We took a very indifferent and badly served breakfast at the only tavern
+in the place. After resting a short time I waited upon the Governor,
+Lord Belcarras, and, at the king’s house, had the good fortune to meet
+with Dr. Lind, who had been with us at Barbadoes, and was now appointed,
+from the hospital staff of St. Domingo, to the direction of the medical
+department in Jamaica.
+
+This gentleman kindly insisted upon taking us under his guidance for the
+day; and obligingly devoting his time to our accommodation, he conducted
+us to the different parts of the town and its environs, pointing out to
+us all that was particularly worthy the attention of strangers.
+
+The general view of the place was strongly calculated to confirm the
+opinion we had formed upon entering it: clouded with the dull marks of
+its Spanish origin, it might be mistaken for only the fauxbourgs of a
+more splendid city. The narrow confined streets look dark and gloomy,
+and the older houses are small, low, irregular, and of mean appearance,
+consisting only of a single story. Still, although the general face of
+the metropolis be not prepossessing, handsome improvements are met with
+in various parts of it. The king’s house, the house of assembly, and
+public offices, are capacious and ornamental, as is likewise the
+main-guard. The portico and statue erected to the memory of Rodney are
+also magnificent, and an honor to the island. The horse-barracks form a
+handsome pile of building, and are highly commodious for their purpose.
+Some of the houses, likewise, at the extremity of the town are spacious,
+and of modern structure.
+
+The land in the outskirts of St. Jago de la Vega is barren and
+uncultivated, and wears not the rich livery generally bestowed by a
+populous city. It appears a wide and dreary waste, overspread with
+thorns and bushes, a striking contrast to the luxuriant environs of St.
+Pierre, where fields of coffee and sugar, and gardens of rich fruits
+overhang the houses and very chimneys of the town, and extend themselves
+from the vales and even the summits of the hills quite to the brink of
+the ocean.
+
+Near Spanish Town is an extensive flat, which is formed into a course
+for the purpose of horse-racing. At a short distance are lofty hills and
+pleasant, elevated fields, where many of the inhabitants have small
+estates laid out in what are termed _pens_, for the purpose of breeding
+and raising sheep, poultry, and the various kinds of stock. At these
+pens it is common for the proprietors to have villas or cottages to
+serve as country residences, whither they retire to pass the night in a
+cool atmosphere, returning to the business of the town in the morning.
+
+As at Kingston, so at St. Jago de la Vega, we met with very few women
+who were fairer than mulattoes; and among these the same slovenly figure
+and vulgar carriage prevailed, as among the like classes in Kingston. We
+expected to have found more of neatness and taste among this order of
+people at the seat of government and of fashion; but the dull Spanish
+costume was still predominant, with a seeming disregard of cleanliness
+and personal adornment.
+
+We returned by moonlight, when the air was delightfully cool, and the
+ride pleasanter, if possible, than in the morning; so clear, so bright
+and exquisitely soft was the evening, that, upon our arrival near
+Kingston, we took the opportunity of lengthening our ride by extending
+it about the environs, and were highly gratified in seeing, by this mild
+light, the many agreeable villas and improvements near the town.
+
+Since our visit to St. Jago de la Vega we have repeated our walks about
+the city and suburbs of Kingston. On the leeward side we found a number
+of mean and confined streets, consisting of small houses, occupied by
+Jews; and this quarter, like the dwelling-places of that race of people
+in the large towns of Europe, is so crowded, filthy, and offensive as to
+reflect much disgrace upon the arrangements of the police.
+
+On the same side, at a very short distance out of the town, is also an
+extensive burying-ground, which we were told, by a mulatto man whom we
+chanced to meet upon the spot, was “for the heathens and the
+Christians.” We observed that it was separated by a wide ditch into two
+divisions, one of which we understood to be appropriated to the
+interment of the soldiers, sailors, and lower classes of whites; the
+other to that of the people of colour.
+
+Eastward of the town is an extensive common, in the vicinity of
+which, and upon its borders, are built numbers of gentlemen’s
+country-houses—most of them very neat, some spacious and handsome.
+Here the general appearance of all around was very like what is seen
+in Europe. The excellent roads crossing the common at different
+parts, the style of the buildings, the manner of fitting them up,
+the glazed and sashed windows, the neatly paled gardens, and the
+negro houses scattered over the heath like the happy cottages of our
+peasantry, all so resembled England that we stood fixed, for a
+considerable time, contemplating the scene, when the European
+picture was still further heightened by a party of ladies driving
+past us in an elegant English carriage. The agreeable coolness of
+the evening, in consequence of a heavy shower of rain having fallen
+about an hour before, contributed also to the same effect; and,
+forgetful of the West Indies, we almost imagined ourselves to be
+actually viewing a fine landscape in England.
+
+We made a visit to the church and churchyard, and inspected the dates
+upon the tombstones, as an index of the number of days commonly allotted
+to the inhabitants of Kingston. In a few instances we observed records
+of longevity; but the great majority of persons had been snatched away
+in what is usually considered life’s happiest prime.
+
+We observe in our walks about the streets, that in point of richness and
+neatness of arrangement, the shops and stores of Kingston are as much
+superior to those of St. Pierre, as those of London are to those of
+Paris. Perhaps there are few things in which the English more strikingly
+out-rival the French than in the art of dressing their windows, and
+exhibiting their goods to public view. In Paris the shops are devoid of
+that taste and brilliant display which so commonly attracts the eyes of
+foreigners in the busy streets of London. A similar distinction prevails
+also in the colonies of the two nations: the stores and repositories of
+the handsome town of St. Pierre are small and gloomy, while at Kingston
+many of them are light and spacious, and dressed out with all the
+neatness and splendour of Bond Street or Cheapside.
+
+I have mentioned to you already, that, on my first landing at
+Port-Royal, I perceived the heat to be uncommonly powerful; and I may
+now add that we find the climate of Kingston hotter than that of
+Martinique, Barbadoes, or Demarara, although these colonies are many
+degrees nearer the equator. In the shade, at the distance of a hundred
+yards only from the water, the thermometer is commonly, at noon, at 86
+or 87 of Fahrenheit: between six and seven o’clock, both morning and
+evening, it is usually from 80 to 83 degrees.
+
+The mornings are exceedingly oppressive. The sea-breeze, which becomes
+very strong in the course of the day, is scarcely perceptible before ten
+o’clock, being two hours later than we had been accustomed to have it
+upon the coast of Guiana.
+
+The fruits are very superior at Jamaica to those we commonly had in the
+windward colonies, and in far greater plenty: the pines and mangoes, in
+particular, are of exquisite flavour, and better, beyond all comparison,
+than any we met with, either in the Charibbee islands, or at Berbische
+and Demarara.
+
+Various kinds of fruits, likewise, are in use here, which we had not
+seen in the windward settlements. Among these is the jack-fruit, lately
+imported from the East Indies. It is very large, and in form and
+substance somewhat resembles a common sort called the soursop, but is of
+a different and much superior flavour. If it were possible to convey a
+correct idea of it in words, I might perhaps describe it best, by
+saying, that it has the taste of a delicious melon, slightly quickened
+with the eschalot. Of this production many persons partake with peculiar
+gratification, after being accustomed to eat of it; but an acquired
+taste is commonly said to be necessary to its full enjoyment.
+
+A regular meat-market is established at Kingston, and so amply supplied,
+that beef may be had as plentifully as from the shambles of Leadenhall
+or Whitechapel. Turtle is also very abundant, and is among the common
+dishes at every gentleman’s table. Some of these animals are of enormous
+size. Their shells are used by the negroes for all the common purposes
+of baskets and barrows. They carry them upon their heads, filled with
+various kinds of wares; and employ them instead of wheelbarrows for
+removing dirt and rubbish from the streets.
+
+Although the market provisions are more reasonable, and in greater
+plenty than in the windward colonies; and notwithstanding the common
+supplies and conveniences are more extensive, and more like those of
+Europe, still the superiority seems to be commanded principally, if not
+exclusively, by the inhabitants; for, if it were fair to speak from the
+limited experience which I have hitherto had, I should be compelled to
+admit that the public accommodations of Martinique and Barbadoes are
+more satisfactory to a stranger, than those of Jamaica.
+
+A breakfast or dinner may be had for less money at Jamaica, than at
+Martinique; but you are better served and attended, and have more of
+that indefinable arrangement, which a man feels necessary to his ease
+and comfort, in the taverns of Bridge-town and St. Pierre, than in those
+of Kingston or Spanish Town.
+
+Private lodgings are far more extravagant at Jamaica than in any other
+colony we have visited. For only a very small room it is common to
+demand seven or eight dollars per week. Amidst the plenty of provisions,
+two bits (10_d._ English) are charged for a pint of milk. The hire of a
+saddle-horse per day is three dollars, and of a mean-looking horse and
+chaise seven dollars.
+
+I have been sorry to learn, upon conversing with the medical
+practitioners of Kingston, that the same uncertainty and indecision
+prevail, at Jamaica, regarding the nature of the destructive fever of
+the climate, as in the other colonies; and that the difference of
+opinion, among the medical men, respecting the treatment of this
+formidable disease, displays itself in a manner which adds to the public
+fears; and cruelly augments the distress of individuals, who are
+attacked with this malignant malady.
+
+Two of the most eminent professional characters of the island having
+adopted opinions directly the reverse of each other, many of the
+practitioners have enlisted under the opposing banners, and the public,
+distracted by the discords of the medical body, is deprived of that
+happy confidence which forms so important a consolation in sickness. One
+party, considering the fever to be inflammatory, employ venæsection,
+relying upon it as a sovereign remedy; the other party, viewing it as a
+putrid disorder, have a terror of the lancet, and put their trust in the
+Peruvian bark, and other tonic remedies. These discordant opinions
+afford the strongest testimony, that, in every attack of disease,
+nothing less than a correct discrimination, and an unwearied attention
+to all the symptoms and circumstances of each individual case, can be
+available towards a successful treatment.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLIV.
+
+
+                                         Cape St. Nicholas Mole, August.
+
+Greetings, my friend! We have reached our place of destination, and, in
+health and safety, I am, at last, enabled to offer you tidings from St.
+Domingo!
+
+Having obtained the promise of a passage with Mr. Donaldson, it was
+announced to us on the 8th instant, that all would be ready for sailing
+on the morrow; and we left Kingston, in order to sleep on board, that we
+might proceed to sea with the morning tide; but after passing a very
+comfortless night, we learned that the captain of the sloop had not
+arrived; we made our escape therefore from the noise and stench of the
+vessel, and went to take our breakfasts at Port-Royal, where we heard
+that it was likely we should not sail before the morning of the 10th.
+
+This we hailed as a piece of good fortune, since it offered us an
+opportunity of seeing the town of Port-Royal, and the public hospital
+there established, together with the dock-yard, forts, and batteries of
+this disastrous, but important harbour.
+
+Whilst we were rambling about this awfully-celebrated place, the weather
+suddenly changed, and we were strikingly reminded of the melancholy
+history of the spot on which we moved. A thick darkness was spread
+around; it thundered and lightened; the tearing wind drove the sands and
+sprays far into the air; the sea rolled in mountainous tumult; and the
+waters rushed from the clouds in tropical torrents. At the same time the
+shattered mast of the Thorn sloop of war, which had been lately struck
+by lightning in a storm, was lying before us, heightening the effect of
+a scene very singularly calculated to impress upon our minds the
+disasters which had befallen this unhappy town from the hurricanes and
+earthquakes of former days.
+
+In the evening we returned to the sloop, and on the tenth I was apprized
+of the morning dawn by the unpleasant motion of the vessel getting under
+weigh. It was at an early hour, and the breeze had not set in at
+Port-Royal; we were obliged, therefore, to pull out of the harbour, and
+some distance up the coast, by means of the sweeps: but, after a short
+time, our canvass gradually filled, when the oars were shipped, and we
+sailed smoothly along, obtaining a most delightful view of the island.
+
+I now felt myself again upon my long continued and often broken voyage
+of voyages to St. Domingo, whither I had been bound from the time of my
+quitting London two years ago, when it was expected I should reach this
+destination, at the latest, in the course of two or three months.
+
+At daybreak, on the eleventh, the east end of Jamaica appeared in view.
+We weathered this point, standing on toward the little island of
+Navessah, and the quarter of Jeremie; and the breeze remaining
+favorable, we had the prospect of making a quick passage.
+
+A fleet of six small vessels, bound for the port of Jeremie, some of
+them well armed, sailed from Jamaica with the same tide as ourselves;
+and as this part is commonly infested with swarms of privateers, we were
+anxious to continue in company as far as possible; feeling it a security
+in case any of the enemy’s vessels should attack us in concert—singly we
+had nothing to apprehend from any of them, our sloop mounting twelve
+guns, and being stoutly manned.
+
+In the course of the night we were hailed by the Hannibal ship of war,
+and the captain learning that Mr. Donaldson was with us, pressingly
+solicited him to go on board to drink a glass of wine. He accepted the
+invitation, but not without reluctance, on account of the delay it might
+occasion. Upon Mr. Donaldson’s stepping into the boat, to make this
+visit, I could not but contemplate the wide difference between sailing
+in these seas and in the boisterous bay of Biscay; where, for many weeks
+in succession, instead of making social excursions upon the ocean, in
+open boats at midnight, it had been perilous even for any of the vessels
+of the fleet to approach within hail of each other.
+
+On the twelfth we were becalmed, and remained the whole day without
+making any progress.
+
+The calm continued on the thirteenth, and the weather became far more
+sultry and oppressive, than I had before known it, during my residence
+in the West Indies. The sheep, turkies, chickens, pigs, and every living
+creature on board, exhibited marks of disquietude, from the excessive
+heat, and the total absence of the breeze: even a parrot, a native of
+these regions, breathed with open beak, and grew extremely restless in
+search of air.
+
+I do not remember ever to have passed a day of such distress. The
+languor we suffered amounted almost to annihilation; and no possible
+relief could be found.
+
+The vessel was crowded, and the cabin small: below it was dreadfully
+hot, close, and suffocating: upon deck the sun’s rays were scorching and
+insupportable. No comfort could any where be obtained; whatever part of
+the vessel we sought, wheresoever we stationed ourselves, still we felt
+the most exhausting prostration; and it only remained to us to lie about
+gasping for air, through the unvarying hours of this afflictive day.
+
+The opportunity was peculiarly favorable for ascertaining the greatest
+heat of the direct rays of a tropical sun, and at noon, by a
+considerable effort, I roused myself from the languor which benumbed me,
+and suspended the thermometer to the cordage of the sloop, distant from
+the mast, and far above the deck, so placing it as to be fully exposed
+to the sun. Thus circumstanced, and after half an hour’s exposure, the
+mercury only rose to 96, which, as on many former occasions, I found to
+be the greatest mid-day heat in these regions; but we often read of
+climates where the thermometer is at 100, 110, or 120 in the shade! This
+may possibly be the case in particular situations, such as upon the
+burning sands of Egypt, or in the heated streets of a close city; but it
+must depend upon locality, and all above must be the effect of condensed
+or reflected heat, the direct and open rays never exceeding that degree.
+In many houses, and in some towns, the heat is conveyed to a thermometer
+from all quarters, as if it were placed in a furnace; and, in such
+situations, the mercury will necessarily rise very high; but to give
+this as the heat of the climate would be very like stating the heat of a
+town from a thermometer put into a baker’s oven.
+
+During great part of the hot and sultry day, of which I am speaking, the
+mercury stood at 90 in the shade.
+
+In the evening we felt, as it were, new life, upon a gentle breeze
+succeeding to the retiring sun; at night the wind freshened, and our
+associate fleet bearing away for the port of Jeremie, we passed that
+point of the island, and were left to make the remainder of the passage
+alone.
+
+Upon quitting our births on the fourteenth, we learned that there had
+been some wind during the night, and that we were standing on, under a
+moderate breeze, for the Mole. The morning was beautifully fine, a
+milder sun smiled upon our sloop, and she was the only vessel observed
+upon the wide circle of the ocean. But before we sat down to breakfast,
+we were called from our tranquil prospect, to engage in a hurried and
+threatening scene. A strange sail was descried astern, which, upon her
+nearer approach, was discovered to be a privateer schooner in full chase
+of us.
+
+In the expectation that we might be thus interrupted, Mr. Donaldson,
+having been thrice, already, exposed to the miseries of a French prison,
+had manned his vessel with a select crew, and was resolved to fight as
+long as there was the least hope of saving her.
+
+When all was prepared for action, an appeal was made to the sloop’s
+company in a short harangue, and we had the satisfaction to find that
+all the men were brave, declaring themselves eager for battle, and
+determined to resist to the last extremity.
+
+The enemy’s vessel appearing to be nearly of the same rate as our own,
+we expected a warm engagement, but from the spirit displayed by our
+crew, we had no apprehension respecting the result. The privateer
+outsailed us, and, as she approached nearer and nearer, every one was
+anxiously looking out to discover upon which side she would begin the
+attack; but, very unexpectedly, when she had reached almost within
+gunshot, she suddenly tacked about, and stood away to windward, leaving
+us to pursue our course unmolested.
+
+We watched her manœuvres for some time, and seeing that she dropped
+astern, as rapidly as she had before gained upon us, all hands went
+quietly to breakfast, the sailors muttering their disappointment, at not
+having an opportunity of “exchanging a few broadsides!” It was
+conjectured, that, upon seeing our preparations, and the number of hands
+on board, the privateer had deemed it prudent not to risk an action.
+
+The breeze now grew stronger, and quickly ours was again the only vessel
+upon the broad expanse around us. Some points of the island of Cuba soon
+opened to our view; but we did not make the Mole so early as the
+improving breeze had led us to expect.
+
+In the evening the wind increased to a strong gale; the night became
+black and dismal; it was the very midst of the hurricane season; and we
+seemed destined to experience all the varieties of calm and tempest.
+Loud thunder rolled almost without ceasing, and the broad flashes of
+lightning were repeated in such rapid succession, as to produce nearly
+the continued brightness of day. The rain afterwards poured down in
+torrents, and from our not being able to carry sail, the tearing gusts
+of wind tossed our little bark over the broken surface of the ocean,
+like an empty cask. Augmented perils now beset us, and the danger of
+hurricane was infinitely greater than any we could apprehend from a
+hostile vessel. To sleep was impossible, and the hours seemed dreadfully
+tedious until morning; when, escaping from the horrors of this gloomy
+night, we found ourselves again becalmed, with the mountains of the Mole
+in sight on one hand, and the island of Cuba on the other.
+
+The whole day (on the fifteenth) was passed in looking at our place of
+destination, without being able to make the slightest approach to it;
+our vessel lying like a log upon the still surface of the water. A
+breeze sprang up, as usual, in the evening, and we again stood on our
+passage, filled with the hope of being at anchor off the Mole by
+daylight. On the morning of the sixteenth we found we were still more
+distant from the land than we had appeared to be the day before, with
+the additional mortification of being again becalmed, and our sails
+hanging loose against the mast. Tantalus could scarcely have been more
+tormented.
+
+Mr. Donaldson now proposed to me to accompany him on shore in the boat;
+and being heartily tired of calms and gales, the sloop and the sea, I
+very cordially consented. Four sailors, with the mate and the cockswain,
+were accordingly ordered into the boat, and we felt assured of being
+quickly at the Mole: but again we were disappointed, having been greatly
+deceived in respect to the distance, which, instead of being only three
+miles (as it had appeared from the vessel), proved to be more than as
+many leagues. When we had advanced beyond the protection of the sloop,
+we found that we were far from the batteries of the Mole; and,
+consequently, exposed to the danger of being cut off by the boats of the
+brigands, which infested this quarter, often venturing to the very mouth
+of the harbour.
+
+It was excessively sultry from the absence of the breeze, and we were
+scorching under the direct and burning rays of the sun. The sailors were
+most cruelly fatigued. One of them became so exhausted, as to let fall
+his oar, and if the mate had not promptly taken it up, and encouraged
+the other men, by assisting to row us into the harbour, we should have
+been reduced to the peril of lying at the mercy of the enemy’s cruisers
+until the sloop had overtaken us.
+
+It was between two and three o’clock in the afternoon when we stepped on
+shore at the Mole, and, upon the arrival of those we had left, we found
+that we had been forwarded only an hour and a half by our hazardous
+excursion in the boat; but to me every hour at sea was an age; I
+therefore felt the time we had gained a full compensation for all the
+toil and danger.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLV.
+
+
+                                         Cape St. Nicholas Mole, August.
+
+It were futile, as unnecessary, to attempt describing the sensation I
+experienced on finding myself upon the island of St. Domingo. I had for
+a long time looked to this colony as a kind of military home, where I
+should meet my comrades, overtake my books and baggage, and receive a
+packet of letters, which had been nearly two years accumulating, from
+many valued friends whom I had left in England.
+
+From the period of joining the expedition, I had been taught to regard
+this island as my place of service, and in my wanderings from it, I had
+been exposed to many dangers of climate, disease, the enemy, and the
+sea. You will feel, therefore, that it was matter of no common
+gratification, after so perilous an absence, to arrive in safety at my
+station. But, alas! it remains a solitary consolation; for all my
+happiest expectations are disappointed! My books and baggage have been
+sent away, and captured by the enemy; my letters, which I had so long
+contemplated as a rich fund of delight, have, in the despair of my
+coming, been returned to England; and my comrades, the companions of my
+voyage to these baleful regions, are most of them either dead, or gone
+in search of their lost health to milder climates!
+
+The hope that I was soon to meet the friends who had accompanied me from
+England, and to read of those whom I had left behind, had constituted my
+best support, through all my toils in proceeding toward St. Domingo;
+but, now, the spot which I had anticipated as my happiest residence,
+offers only disappointment and sorrow. In my round of duty I shall have
+to tread the very steps which have led to the melancholy fate of my
+comrades, exposed to the additional affliction of daily passing their
+graves.
+
+Your heart will swell with sympathy when you read that my esteemed
+friend, Dr. Cleghorn, fell an early victim to the cruel ravager of
+European vigour; that my colleagues, Weir, Fellowes, Henderson, and
+Carroll, have all returned to England, exhausted by disease; and that my
+respected comrade, Dr. Master, was embarking at the very moment of my
+arrival, in an almost hopeless state of sickness, for the more temperate
+region of North America. Fortunately, the vessel did not sail at the
+time appointed; my friend availed himself, therefore, of the opportunity
+to return on shore, and we passed a few hours together before he finally
+took his departure. To you, who can duly estimate such hours, I need not
+say how highly they were appreciated: they were dear to my feelings, and
+will ever be hallowed in my remembrance[9].
+
+Having thus lost my friend Master the day after my arrival, and Gen.
+Whyte, Col. Grant, Dr. Jackson, &c. having taken up their quarters at
+Port au Prince, I find myself amidst a body of strangers, feeling, as it
+were, unknown and alone; with the further intimation that I am, already,
+left in the island the only physician, of the six who were appointed for
+St. Domingo, upon the late great expedition to the western colonies.
+
+In the absence of Mr. Weir, the direction of the medical department
+devolves upon Dr. Jackson; but, as he is stationed at head-quarters, I
+find the hospitals at the Mole under the immediate control of Dr. Scott,
+who has obligingly accompanied me to wait upon Col. Stuart, the military
+commandant, and Sir Hyde Parker, the commander in chief of the naval
+department; yet I cannot feel that I have decidedly joined the staff, or
+that I am officially upon duty at St. Domingo, until I shall have had an
+opportunity of reporting myself, at head-quarters, to my friend Gen.
+Whyte, who has succeeded to the chief command of the troops. For this
+purpose, therefore, I am preparing to make another sea voyage, and shall
+embark in the course of a few days for Port au Prince.
+
+Of the Mole I have nothing very interesting to note. It is a valuable
+port on account of its safe and commodious harbour for shipping; but
+neither the town, nor the country around it, presents any richness or
+beauty. The scenery consists of rude and barren mountains, with confined
+valleys and narrow heated gullies. The town is built at the edge of the
+water, upon a hot and sandy soil; the houses, as is usual in this
+climate, are of wood, and exhibit more of convenience than elegance of
+structure; some of them are provided with piazzas in front; but, as in
+the other towns of the West Indies, they are less general than might be
+expected.
+
+Behind the town, in a kind of amphitheatre about it, the rough and
+steril land rises into huge mountains; upon the sides of which, and upon
+the smaller eminences, have been erected block-houses, which form a
+chain of defensive posts, and serve to cover the place, while they
+strengthen the general position, rendering it, in a great degree, secure
+against the unpractised enemy, with whom we have to contend, although
+they might constitute but a feeble barrier against a more disciplined
+army of Europeans. At the lower extremity, beyond the streets, is a
+formidable battery, commanding the entrance of the harbour; and upon
+some hills, separated by a narrow gully from the upper part of the town,
+have been erected several of the temporary hospitals brought out from
+England, in which the sick are very commodiously accommodated.
+
+These receptacles of disease are far from being tenanted in the same
+proportion, at present, as for several months past, during which time
+the fever raged here with accumulated fury, spreading dreadful havoc and
+destruction among the troops.
+
+A convenient and spacious house, situated in an open square at the best
+part of the Mole, is allotted as the quarters of the person appointed to
+superintend the hospital department. Since the departure of Mr. Weir,
+this has been occupied by Doctors Scott and Master; and I have, now, at
+once the fortunate and melancholy lot of succeeding to the apartment
+lately occupied by the latter.
+
+A mess is established for the medical officers; and, considering the
+scarcity of fresh provisions at this place, it may be said to be well
+supplied.
+
+Saltpork, pease-soup, rice, and the vegetables of the country being in
+plenty, constitute very useful standing dishes, and the table is seldom
+without some addition of fish, poultry, or other fresh animal food.
+
+From the territory immediately round the Mole being in possession of the
+enemy, or, to use the more common term, the brigands, stock and other
+provisions cannot be procured from the country estates or plantations,
+as in the other colonies; the supply therefore depends chiefly on North
+America; and in the failure of vessels arriving from the United States,
+with stock on board, fresh provisions become extravagantly dear,
+insomuch that at times sixteen or eighteen dollars have been paid for a
+turkey, ten for a couple of ducks, and six or eight for a pair of
+chickens.
+
+Of fruit the quantity is also very limited; the most plentiful are
+melons, grapes, and figs: pines, mangoes, shaddocks, and many other
+species, which we have been accustomed to meet with in the other
+islands, are here very scarce.
+
+In the dry and sandy valley which separates the town from the hills,
+whereon the hospitals are erected, means have been taken to raise
+vegetables for the use of the sick; and the success of the attempt
+displays, very amply, how much may be effected, in this climate, by
+culture even of the most arid and seemingly barren soil. By the aid of a
+small current of water, a mere gully of sand is converted into a
+prolific garden.
+
+The vegetable world, in these regions, is in a high degree obedient to
+control, and the abundance and rapidity with which the growth of plants
+may be called forth, by only slight attention to the land, is really
+surprising. The labour employed is very liberally rewarded, for the most
+steril spots, gratefully responsive to the care bestowed upon them,
+grant to industry a generous return.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLVI.
+
+
+                                                 Port au Prince, August.
+
+My voyage from the Mole to this place was attended with the usual
+vexations and uncertainties of sea travelling. Wishing to proceed to
+Port au Prince, I thought myself fortunate in learning that a small
+fleet of American traders was about to sail for that place, and lost no
+time in securing a passage on board the Lion, one of our armed ships,
+which was going as convoy. Owing to erroneous information, respecting
+the time of sailing, I was left on shore without my baggage, and was
+under the necessity of pressing a boat with four negroes to carry me
+after the fleet, which we overtook with much difficulty and exertion.
+Two frigates, going upon a cruise, left the Mole at the same time as the
+convoy: but they soon shot a-head of it, leaving nine American
+merchantmen to the protection of the Lion. The breeze continued until
+evening, when, as commonly occurs at this season, it was succeeded by a
+calm, and we remained fixed upon the ocean, at only a short distance
+from the land, and near to a post occupied by the brigands.
+
+My sleeping-birth happened unluckily to be in a confined part of the
+cabin, where I was not only deprived of air, but nauseated by the smell
+of the ship, and cruelly bitten by swarms of cockroaches and musquitoes.
+Rest was denied me, and from the extreme heat my whole surface was
+immersed in a deep bath of perspiration. I had before passed many close
+and oppressive nights; but it had never been my lot to feel any one so
+entirely comfortless and distressing as this: to move was an exhausting
+fatigue, and to lie still was equally insupportable.
+
+I made my escape from this wretched birth early in the morning, and
+removed all my uneasy feelings by the pleasant exchange of a hot bath
+for a cold one. It was a calm, and we passed an idle day, lying with our
+little fleet collected in a narrow circle upon the unmoved surface of
+the ocean.
+
+The cabin party consisted of Captain Lloyd, of the 66th regiment,
+Messrs. Stewart, Hastie, and Claypole, three or four French gentlemen,
+as many American masters of ships, and two French ladies. The Lion had
+lately been employed to convoy some American vessels to the river
+Delaware; and a number of convalescents from the hospitals had been
+placed on board for the benefit of the passage. After lying six weeks at
+Philadelphia, she returned to St. Domingo, with another convoy of
+American traders, and reached the Mole only a day or two previous to my
+arrival at that place from Jamaica. Including the six weeks passed at
+anchor in the Delaware, they had been absent four months, during which
+time three of the soldiers had died, and two had deserted. The others
+being still on board, I took the opportunity, during the calm of the
+first evening of our passage, of requesting Captain Lloyd to have them
+mustered upon deck, in order that I might ascertain in what degree they
+had benefited by the voyage. Mr. Beaumont, apothecary to the forces, who
+had been appointed to attend them down to the coast of America,
+furnished me with the history of their cases, and assisted in the
+inspection; but I was sorry to discover that they had not experienced so
+much advantage from the change of climate as might have been expected. A
+few had recovered, but considerable numbers were still in only a feeble
+state of convalescence.
+
+When bed-time returned, I avoided the ills of the preceding night by
+spreading my mattress upon the table, in the middle of the cabin,
+directly under the open hatchway, and afterwards made that my place of
+repose every night during the passage.
+
+On the 22d the calm continued, and I had the mortification to learn, not
+only that we were in the precise meridian (as well as the high season)
+of heat and still water, but that, notwithstanding the distance is
+barely thirty leagues, vessels were sometimes more than forty days
+making the passage from the Mole to Port au Prince.
+
+Unable to advance on our voyage, we spent the day in walking upon deck,
+and looking over the popular works of an American author, who, at this
+time, attracts much notice in Philadelphia and throughout the United
+States. He publishes under the fictitious name of Peter Porcupine, and
+is zealously occupied in shooting his quills against the abettors of the
+French revolution, endeavouring to show the danger of Gallic influence
+in America, and exposing the frightful horrors committed by the various
+factions of republican France. Thus he may be regarded as pleading the
+cause of Britain with that of the United States. Much acuteness and
+discernment, with great boldness of expression, are displayed in these
+publications; but they betray a coarseness of language and of personal
+invective, which would not be tolerated in England[10].
+
+Upon quitting my table couch on the morning of the 23d, I found the
+convoy had made some way upon the passage, and was very near to the
+shore, with the island of Gonave on the right, and the high land about
+Port au Prince appearing far a-head. But the gentle wind of the night
+had died away, and we were again becalmed. In this situation a brigand
+boat came from the coast, and hovered round our little fleet, with the
+design of cutting off any defenceless vessel that might be lying beyond
+the reach of the armed ship; but the convoy being assembled close about
+the protecting “Lion,” the enemy deemed it prudent not to hazard a
+nearer approach.
+
+In the afternoon a slight breeze enabled us to proceed; but it again
+ceased, early in the evening, and we came to anchor for the night close
+under the shore, not far from Arcahaye, a post possessed by our troops.
+A fine valley or plain was seen near this place, as we drew towards the
+land; and from appearing peculiarly fertile, afforded a striking
+contrast to the rugged and uncultivated coast which had been constantly
+before us, from the time of our first making the island of St. Domingo.
+
+The many delays of this tranquil, but interrupted passage afforded me
+repeated opportunities of hearing remarks upon the colony of St.
+Domingo, and of witnessing traits of French character. The ladies, and
+some of the gentlemen, were either natives, or residents of the
+settlement; others were more recently from France; and by conversing
+with them, and attending to their frequent debates with each other, I
+was both amused and instructed, although at times exceedingly disgusted.
+
+Our passengers of the fair sex proved themselves upon all occasions to
+be truly French. They commented upon the figure, shape, and tournure of
+the human body, its secretions and excretions, and the various functions
+of its different organs, with a freedom that betrayed more of ease, than
+delicacy; and, to the surprise of the English part of the company, they
+conversed with the gentlemen upon these subjects, without the slightest
+reserve.
+
+The French pique themselves upon their refinement, and regard the
+British as abrupt and unpolished; yet, I may venture to assert, that
+there is not a decent female in England, however slightly educated, who
+would not think her feelings outraged by the coarse expressions and
+equivocal innuendoes which are used in the conversation of all orders of
+the softer sex in France.
+
+That amiable diffidence, which so eminently distinguishes the delicate
+females of our island, and is too commonly termed mauvaise honte, is
+often the genuine effect of modesty; and, whether it be the result of
+education, or of natural feeling, no Englishman, I suspect, would wish
+to see it removed from the minds of his fair countrywomen, or to have it
+exchanged for the unblushing confidence of French familiarity: I am
+Gothic enough to regard many of the refinements of our Gallic
+neighbours, as indecent and unbecoming, and my English feelings often
+lead me to think the conversation of French ladies such as ought never
+to escape from female lips[11].
+
+Among other topics, we were frequently amused with warm debates, between
+the ladies and the French gentlemen, respecting the advantages possessed
+by the coloured belles of Cape François, compared with those of Port au
+Prince, from which it seemed that those of the Cape were most splendid
+in their dress and equipage, and shared more of the riches of their
+opulent lords; but that those of Port au Prince outrivalled them in
+beauty and gracefulness of form; yet, it was allowed by all parties,
+that with respect to person, the females of Guadaloupe and Martinique
+were very superior to both.
+
+Soon after we had come to anchor this evening, an officer was sent on
+board from the port of Arcahaye, to ascertain what convoy it was, and to
+learn the news from the Mole; and early on the morning of the 24th we
+were hailed by the Kingston armed ship, which was stationed at Arcahaye,
+for the purpose of cruising in the bight to protect the merchantmen
+against the brigands of an adjoining port, whence boats are frequently
+sent out to cut off any unarmed ships or stragglers from convoys; and so
+adventurous are the crews of these hostile barks, particularly in calm
+weather, that our traders maintain their safety only by the most strict
+watchfulness; but notwithstanding every care, it sometimes happens that
+a party of brigands will row up in an open boat, and board the outermost
+vessel of a convoy, plunder her of every thing valuable, then take out
+her hands and set fire to her, while the protecting ship is prevented by
+the calm from getting within gunshot of the marauder.
+
+About noon the wind came round from the west, and we were enabled to
+stand on our course, seeing the town of Port au Prince directly a-head,
+and expecting that we should complete our voyage at an early hour of the
+evening; but when we had reached within two leagues of the town, and
+were nearly under cover of our own batteries on the shore, a heavy storm
+from the east drove us back, compelling us to stand away for the
+opposite coast, where we came to anchor, near the spot whence we had
+sailed in the morning. Two of the schooners beat against the storm, and
+went into the harbour of Port au Prince. Our ship would likewise have
+gone in, had it not been necessary to remain for the purpose of giving
+protection to the heavy-sailing vessels of the convoy.
+
+Previous to being driven back, we had advanced near enough to see
+distinctly the houses of Port au Prince, with the ships in the harbour,
+and one of the forts on the shore; we saw likewise, at only a short
+distance from the town, the out-posts of our troops, and of the
+brigands, within sight of each other, separated by a plain, which was
+formerly planted with sugar, but has been converted by the flames of the
+revolution into a barren waste.
+
+On the 25th, soon after noon, we had a brisk wind from a favorable
+point, and quickly sailed into harbour, when I most gladly hastened on
+shore in the boat with the captain, without waiting for the ship to let
+go her anchor.
+
+After all my wanderings to find myself at the head-quarters of the army,
+to which I had been originally appointed, was matter of sincere
+gratification to me, particularly when I recollected the many perils and
+dangers with which I had been menaced since the time of my embarkation
+from Portsmouth. In coming from Demarara only, the passage had been made
+in four hazardous divisions, and performed upon seas peculiarly infested
+with hostile cruisers. Some of the voyages had been effected, likewise,
+amidst the hurricane season of the year.
+
+I proceeded without delay to the government-house, to pay my respects to
+the commander in chief, General Whyte, who, by his cordial reception,
+kindly evinced that his recollection of me was not impaired by a long
+separation. After resting myself for some time, and being honored with
+the friendly assurances of the General, he very obligingly desired his
+nephew to conduct me to the quarters of Dr. Jackson, the acting director
+of hospitals. The Doctor was from home, but on his return, I was
+speedily provided, by his kind assistance, with excellent quarters for
+the night, where I found a spacious room, an ample supply of provisions,
+and a bathing-tub with plenty of cold water; which is always the
+greatest luxury to a wearied traveller just escaped from the noisome
+birth of a crowded ship.
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XLVII.
+
+
+                                             Port au Prince, Sept. 1797.
+
+At an early hour on the morning after my arrival at Port au Prince, I
+was roused by the sound of martial music, and upon looking out from my
+bed-room window was struck with a general display of military movement:
+the whole square and all the streets within reach of the eye presented a
+very animated scene; bodies of troops of various nations and hues,
+negroes, hussars, British and foreign infantry and cavalry, were
+assembled, with halberts, sabres, bayonets and firelocks glittering in
+the sun; colours waving in the air; officers and dragoons galloping
+through the streets; bands playing, drums beating, and all around
+uniting in the busy clamour of an active military station: every thing
+bore a warlike aspect, all was in motion, and the general appearance
+evinced that the enemy was at the gate.
+
+At breakfast-time I was visited by Dr. Jackson, who afterwards
+accompanied me in search of my baggage; and having procured it, he
+conducted me to his quarters, requesting that I would take up my abode
+with him during my stay at Port au Prince.
+
+A vacant chamber was accordingly allotted me, in which were placed my
+mattress, a small deal table, and a single wooden chair. I have ever
+since been an inmate of the Doctor’s quiet dwelling. My room is at the
+back part of the house; it is still and private; the window opens into a
+small garden, and all is so tranquil, that instead of feeling myself to
+be in a large town, and at the head-quarters of the army, I might fancy
+that I am placed amidst the seclusion of a country village.
+
+When I entered the house in the evening, all within was silent; and the
+Doctor had retired to his contemplations. I was struck with the
+stillness and unornamented appearance of the habitation. An impressive
+gloom overspread the entrance-chamber; a jug of limpid element stood on
+the table; the floor was of brick, the furniture of the plainest order;
+and a single female attendant constituted the whole domestic
+establishment. Being conducted to my bed-room, I gazed at the naked
+simplicity of my couch and all around it—viewed the bare roof and wooden
+walls—looked at the sable Leonora, and could have fancied myself in
+Penruddock’s cottage upon the heath, had not the warlike indications
+without, reminded me that, instead of the solitary abode of a peaceful
+philosopher, fortune had thrown me into the tranquil barrack of a
+philosophical soldier.
+
+The mode of life observed by my esteemed and learned comrade, in this
+perilous climate, affords a striking example of the benefits to be
+derived from abstemiousness and well-regulated habits. Ardent in the
+pursuit of knowledge, and actuated by amiable and philanthropic
+feelings, Dr. Jackson is industrious, and even laborious, in the
+execution of his duty. Zealous to procure every possible relief for the
+sick, and to obtain extensive and precise information concerning the
+disease which has raged so fatally among the troops, he spares no
+personal toil. Long accustomed to combine military habits with literary
+pursuits, he supports self-privations without regarding the endurance of
+them as a hardship. His wants are limited by his necessities; and he
+concerns not himself about luxuries, or indulgences. Vegetables are his
+food, water is his drink, and a bare hammock his resting-place.
+Disencumbered of all superfluities, he takes the exercise of much daily
+walking, preserves his health and strength, and is free to march,
+whenever the service demands it.
+
+You will conclude that our conversations are often directed to the
+subject of yellow fever; and as you always express yourself anxious
+regarding this direful scourge of our army, I may tell you that my
+opinion, as expressed to you from Guiana, respecting the nature of this
+disorder, is sanctioned by that of my intelligent and accurate friend;
+and as our inquiries made at so great a distance, and without any
+communication with each other, have led to similar conclusions, I have
+much satisfaction in finding my remarks confirmed by those of so able
+and correct an observer. Dr. Jackson views the disease as only a
+modification or very high degree of the common fever of the country. He
+remarks that “it is frequently attended with remissions,” and that if he
+be called to the patient “at an early stage of the complaint,” he has
+the power in most cases “of changing its type, and can often convert it
+into a regular remittent.” He regards early venæsection as a sovereign
+remedy, and esteems it important to the cure, that the quantity drawn at
+the first bleeding should be ample.
+
+I learn with much sorrow, that the fever has been even more fatal here,
+than in the windward colonies; but of late, as in Guiana and the
+Charibbee Islands, its malignity has abated, and the proportion of sick
+is, at this moment, very considerably less than it was, during the
+twelve months immediately subsequent to the arrival of the army; nor is
+this simply an appearance consequent upon the diminished number of
+troops; the disease is actually milder in its form, and the men, from
+becoming seasoned to the climate, are less subject to its invasion: in
+proof of which I may remark, that the greater part of those who are now
+sick, are suffering from the chronic remains of former malady, and not
+from any recent attack of the fever.
+
+Since the chief direction has devolved upon my zealous and active
+colleague, Dr. Jackson, the arrangements of the department have been
+new-modelled; general hospitals have been done away, and all the sick
+are received into the hospitals of their respective regiments; the
+officers of the medical staff being employed only in the occasional
+duties of superintendence and inspection.
+
+Like every other regulation projected by my esteemed comrade, this is
+intended for the benefit of the service; and during a period when the
+troops are stationary, and the sick but few in number, they may,
+probably, be accommodated in this manner with convenience, and at a
+considerably less expense to government than in general hospitals, since
+the higher rate of stoppages, taken from the men in sickness, may
+suffice to provide all the necessaries for them, whilst they are under
+recovery. But in a time of active service, when the troops are exposed
+to frequent and rapid movements, when the sick list is very numerous, or
+when any epidemic, or malignant disorder prevails, it is impossible that
+justice can be done to the sick upon this system, or that it can be
+continued with any advantage to the service. An important objection
+against this alteration is, that it deprives the staff officers of all
+their professional employment, rendering them mere inspectors of
+regimental hospitals, while it supposes the youngest surgeons of
+battalions, and even the assistants, who have seen no service whatever,
+to be equally competent to prescribing, in all cases of disease, as the
+most experienced physicians and surgeons of the army.
+
+Together with Dr. Jackson, and some other officers of the medical staff,
+I have been lately employed upon a board of inspection, to visit all the
+hospitals at Port au Prince, in order to ascertain what number of
+patients might be invalided, on account of not being likely to recover
+in this climate; and I am sorry to add, that we have been obliged to
+mark a long list of sufferers, whom we have thought it advisable to send
+to England for the chance of regaining their health; for, although the
+yellow fever is less prevalent, dysentery and other visceral
+derangements, low fever, extreme debility and atrophy present themselves
+too generally as the distressing sequels of long-continued heat and
+disease.
+
+The officers of the hospital staff now at Port au Prince, are, I
+believe, unanimously of opinion, that the safest and best remedy in the
+yellow fever is early venæsection, and they have multitudes of cases in
+proof of its efficacy; one more than commonly striking occurred among
+the troops of the Dutch or foreign artillery. A party of this corps,
+amounting in number to ninety-six, arrived at Port au Prince on the 10th
+of August last, having reached the West Indies from Europe, in the month
+of July preceding; very soon after their arrival at this place, many of
+them were attacked with fever, but as they happened to be immediately
+under the eye of the gentlemen of the hospital staff, venæsection was
+freely employed in the earliest hours of the disease. During the course
+of a month only one man died: and it is remarkable that he had been
+detained from the hospital until the second or third day after the
+attack.
+
+This is a strong example of the high utility of early bleeding, and it
+is much strengthened by an additional fact related to me by Mr. Young,
+who although not a medical practitioner, is a very intelligent and
+accurate observer. The ship which brought this division of the artillery
+was the Bangalore: she arrived with all the troops in perfect health,
+and with her ship’s company, consisting of the captain and twenty-three
+men, as well as they had been in Europe; but within the month from the
+10th of August to the 10th of September, eight of the sailors and the
+captain had died of the seasoning fever. These unfortunate people had
+not the same medical attendants as the soldiers; but the captain being
+particularly careful of his men, sent them on shore to the house of an
+experienced French nurse, the moment any symptoms of disease were
+manifested, in order that they might, under her care, be regularly
+attended by a medical practitioner of the town. Unhappily this gentleman
+was not of opinion that bleeding was the most efficacious treatment;
+and, therefore, according to his judgment, employed other means; the
+result very lamentably evinces which mode of practice was best advised.
+Of the sailors, more than one third had died within the short period of
+a month. Of the soldiers, although a greater number had suffered the
+disease, only one of ninety-six had been lost within the same period;
+the disproportion is frightful, and becomes melancholy, when we reflect
+that it must have arisen in a great degree from the difference of
+professional treatment! The unfortunate captain of the Bangalore was
+seized on the Saturday, and died on the Monday following.
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XLVIII.
+
+
+                                             Port au Prince, Sept. 1797.
+
+Seeing, by the map, that I am removed to a station many degrees more
+distant from the equator, you will not expect that I should find the
+heat greater at St. Domingo, than I had felt it at Demarara; but it has
+been remarkable that the temperature has risen progressively as we have
+proceeded further to the north. At Martinique it was hotter than in the
+colonies of Guiana: at Jamaica the heat was more intense than at
+Martinique; and, at St. Domingo, the mercury is higher than it was in
+Jamaica.
+
+From the bare statement of this fact, it might seem to be at variance
+with a great general law of nature; but, upon a closer view, it is found
+to proceed entirely from situation, and other local causes. The
+settlements, upon the coast of South America, are formed of an extended
+flat surface of land, at the border of the sea; the towns being small
+and open, and not crowded: while, in the islands, the free current of
+air is interrupted by woods and mountains; and the towns, which are
+closer built, with narrower streets, and a more crowded population, are
+most unwisely placed under hills, or lofty promontories, where both the
+direct and reflected rays of the sun are concentrated as in a furnace;
+or they are erected at the confines of the deepest bays, whither the
+refreshing breeze can seldom penetrate. Hence you will perceive how it
+may readily occur as a mere effect of situation, that the temperature
+should be higher here, than in places nearer the equator.
+
+In the colonies of Demarara and Berbische, at only six or seven degrees
+of north latitude, the heat, at noon, in the shade, very rarely exceeds
+86°: at Martinique, I seldom saw the thermometer above 88°: in the shade
+of sandy Kingston, at Jamaica, it rose sometimes to 90°: and, at Port au
+Prince in St. Domingo, about 19° north latitude, it is often as high as
+93°. But, here, many of the common causes of increased temperature are
+strongly combined, while in the colonies of Guiana there are neither
+rocks, nor hills, nor deep bays, but the broad surface is open to the
+full influence of the breeze, besides being spread with a luxuriant
+verdure, and intersected with canals, and wide ditches of water.
+
+At Demarara, the heat of my bed-room, during the night, seldom exceeded
+76°. Here I sleep in a climate of 83°; and feel very sensibly chilled if
+the thermometer fall as low as 75°. Only a few days ago I sat down to
+write, without particularly noticing the heat of the room, and, upon
+finding myself unable to proceed, in consequence of an unusual flow of
+perspiration falling upon the paper, from the back of my hand, I looked
+at the thermometer and found the mercury at 96°. I removed, without
+delay, into a cooler part of the house, but, in the course of a few
+minutes, was attacked with severe head-ach, and excessive thirst; my
+face became flushed; and, for a short time, my skin felt dry and
+parched. Perhaps, in a person newly arrived in these latitudes, or in
+one of a different habit of body, these symptoms would have constituted
+an accession of fever, which, in the course of twenty or thirty hours,
+might have proved fatal.
+
+We have been exceedingly inconvenienced lately by a dry land-wind, from
+the east, which was equally parching, as the distressing siroc of the
+hot regions of the old continent, and induced, very generally, the
+painful symptoms of influenza. Almost every person was heard sneezing as
+he walked along the streets. I was seized with great severity—my head,
+eyes, nose and throat, were in pain, and the air, as it passed into the
+lungs, felt hot and dry, irritating the membrane of the nose to an
+excessive degree. The attack was sudden—its effects continued three or
+four days, when, upon the wind changing, and the refreshing breeze
+returning, the malady rapidly dissolved away, in the defluxion of common
+catarrh. Whites and blacks, and persons of all the different shades of
+colour, were alike afflicted.
+
+During these days of suffering the thermometer, in my room, was at 82°
+in the morning, from 93° to 95° at noon, and 84° in the evening.
+
+In selecting situations for establishing the towns in this climate, as
+in most others, the preservation of health has been less considered than
+the convenience of commerce. The French colonists appear to have been
+more solicitous regarding the supply of water, than respecting the
+temperature, or purity of the air. At Port au Prince, large sums of
+money have been expended to convey water to the town, by means of
+aqueducts from the rivers. Several large fountains have been erected,
+which afford an ample portion for household uses: open courses have also
+been constructed for the purpose of conducting small streams through the
+different streets: but these, not flowing rapidly, like those in the
+town of St. Pierre, are apt to grow stagnant and dirty, insomuch that
+they frequently become foul ditches. A further evil is likewise felt,
+from the deficiency of current; for Port au Prince, like St. Pierre and
+old Edinburgh, offers not the convenience of certain appendages to the
+houses, which, in England, are esteemed as indispensable as chimnies;
+but the odoriferous riches are consigned to the open channels of the
+streets, rendering them receptacles which cause no small annoyance to
+our unpractised olfactories.
+
+Horses and mules appear to be more commonly employed for the purposes of
+labour, at Port au Prince, than at any place I have yet seen in the West
+Indies. Corn, Guinea grass, cane-tops, &c. &c. are drawn about in small
+carts by five mules harnessed abreast, and driven by a negro mounted
+upon the top of the load. This is an unseemly manner of guiding the
+team; but it is pleasing to find the slaves thus relieved from much of
+their heaviest toil. Kittarines[12], and horses for pleasure, are less
+in use, than in Jamaica; nor do we here observe the same marks of
+opulence and splendour, which display themselves among the inhabitants
+of Kingston: villas, pens, and country-houses, at a short distance from
+the town, are far less numerous. The merchants do not leave their
+dwellings, and retire to the country at night, but content themselves
+with a single establishment, making the house of business their constant
+and only place of residence.
+
+Dancing, gaming, and the common round of amusements, are more prevalent
+than in the English colonies, and pursued with greater avidity. The
+French have a strong passion for play, and would be as dissatisfied
+without the gaming-table, as an Englishman without his newspaper. It
+forms a species of intrigue, in which they have the gratification of
+imagining themselves to outwit each other. Without intrigue of some sort
+they would be overwhelmed with ennui: give them plays, dancing, and the
+gaming-table, and they care very little about liberty and equality:
+deprive them of their amusements,—do away the intrigue of the table, and
+they will cabal in politics; or run into other wild excesses.
+
+This disposition for gaming has been turned, in some measure, to an
+useful account, by converting it into a source of revenue to the
+government. It will surprise you to learn, that the proprietors of one
+of these banks, in Port au Prince, pay the enormous tax of eight hundred
+dollars per month, for the license to keep a table; besides sixteen joes
+per day, as rent to the owner of the house, who, for this sum, engages
+also to provide the attending multitude with porter, wine, and other
+refreshments. What must be their profits to enable them to support such
+an expenditure? The scene which presents itself at these crowded places
+of resort is equally surprising and afflicting. The anxious throng,
+pressing round the table, breathe a noxious atmosphere, in a heat almost
+equal to that of an oven; but, alike insensible to the destructive
+temperature about them, and the streams of perspiration in which their
+persons are dissolving, their anxious countenances betray only the
+passions induced by this unhappy pursuit: joy, disappointment, and
+despair appear, in all their various shades, amidst the crowd, each
+painted in rapid succession upon the same brow. Only a few evenings ago,
+a Frenchman committed suicide, in consequence of having lost all his
+property, at this infatuating table. This too common effect of gaming is
+said to happen less frequently among the French, than among the people
+of other nations. Upon the volatile character of Frenchmen, misfortune
+makes only a slight impression: their vanity, which they seek to dignify
+with the character of philosophy, shields them from despair. It is not
+uncommon to hear them boast of their fortitude in supporting evils,
+which would cause an Englishman to put a pistol to his head: but their
+wants are fewer than his, and more easily supplied: they have more
+resources; and can more readily submit to the humble means of regaining
+their comforts: besides which, their sentiments of dignity and
+consequence are, perhaps, less chaste and elevated—whence they have not
+to contend against so great a host of strong and wounded feelings.
+
+Next to the love of gaming, which we observe among the inhabitants of
+this place, may be classed their fondness for dress and dancing. In
+foppery, the young and the aged of St. Domingo imitate their brethren of
+Paris. At Port au Prince they have a public place of amusement, termed
+Vauxhall; where they assemble in as great crowds as at the
+gaming-houses, and notwithstanding the heat of climate, they often dance
+throughout the night. The mixed assemblage, seen at this place of
+evening resort, is sometimes highly ludicrous. Frivolity and conceit
+here prevail in their most conspicuous colours. The women appear in a
+strange variety of glaring and fantastic apparel; which, intermixed with
+the different costumes of the military, and the whimsical dresses of the
+other inhabitants, gives a most gay and tawdry appearance to the group.
+
+Officers in splendid uniforms, exhibiting all the airs of full-bred
+petits-maitres, are seen tripping about with high turbaned belles in
+gaudy many-coloured dresses; while others of the men appear in long
+surtouts, or cotton coats, hanging down to their heels: some pretty
+youths are laced up like mummies; others, affecting the fierce warrior,
+tread the mazy dance in heavy boots and spurs, occasionally with their
+sabres at their sides, and not unfrequently without taking off their
+hats. The trifling airs, and apish tricks of the greater part of them,
+are calculated to excite only sentiments of ridicule: but an Englishman
+cannot behold a robust hussar figuring up and down in weighty boots and
+spurs, bearing a ponderous sabre in one hand, with a small fan to cool
+his gentle person in the other, and playing off all the insignificancy
+of a fop, without feeling a glow of indignation and disgust.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLIX.
+
+
+                                                         Port au Prince.
+
+Having been at Port an Prince a sufficient time to make my usual
+promenade of the city and its environs, you will expect a more
+particular description of the place, than I have hitherto sent you. It
+is a large town, built most unwisely, upon an ill-chosen spot, below a
+range of white calcareous rocks, at the embouchure of an extensive
+valley, and on the very edge of the water, at the extremity of a deep
+bay of the sea, combining many great evils—such as receiving all the
+filthy drainings of the valley, and exuviæ of the ocean, being shut from
+the purifying sea-breeze, and exposed to the utmost ardour of the
+condensed, and also the reflected rays of the sun.
+
+In form, Port au Prince much resembles Kingston in Jamaica; the streets
+being spacious and placed at right angles; but it is not so handsome a
+town, the houses being small, and the shops fitted up with less
+attention to neatness and decoration. As is common in the West Indies,
+the houses are built of wood, and covered with shingles: in general they
+consist of only a single story with piazzas in front; but these, like
+those at Kingston, are so constructed as to drive the dissolving
+pedestrian under the broad surface of a scorching sun, instead of
+affording him the protecting shade which the climate renders so highly
+needful.
+
+Some of the streets are improved by a partial pavement; but the others
+are deep in dust and sand. The upper part of the town is hilly, from
+being extended along the side of the rock; but the lower part stands
+near the water, upon a soil so loose and swampy, that it was necessary
+to drive pillars of wood into the earth in order to form a secure
+foundation for the buildings. Although it is very inferior to St. Pierre
+or Kingston, Port au Prince has the advantage of several large squares;
+also of open spaces, behind the houses, for out-offices, and, in many
+instances, for small gardens.
+
+The only edifice, offering any claim to particular notice, is the
+government-house, which, although plain, is one of the handsomest, and
+most substantial structures that I have seen in the West Indies. If not
+a palace, it is a spacious and convenient dwelling, and well planned
+with regard to the climate. It is a distinct building erected at the
+upper end of a large square, commanding the grand parade and the streets
+branching from thence into the town: the entrance is by a flight of
+steps, leading into a wide piazza, which opens into a large
+anti-chamber, connecting with the inner rooms. By this construction the
+different apartments are well ventilated, and kept so pleasantly cool,
+that the temperature of this house is found to be considerably below the
+common standard of heat in the town.
+
+At Port au Prince, as at St. Pierre, it is usual to have baths annexed
+to the dwellings: bathing, in this climate, as well as in Europe, being
+a comfort which is far better understood, and more generally adopted, by
+the French, than by the English.
+
+Notwithstanding the military throng now in this place, Port au Prince
+has not the appearance of being so populous as St. Pierre. The same busy
+commerce does not prevail; nor are the streets crowded with such hosts
+of females, as were seen at the pleasant capital of Martinique. The
+higher orders of the women of colour (for distinctions exist even among
+the descendants of slaves) are neither so numerous, nor so handsome as
+those of Martinique. They are also less dignified in their carriage, and
+display less taste in the arts of the toilette; preserving more the air
+of the same classes seen upon the streets of Kingston. In cleanliness of
+person and apparel the women of Martinique have likewise greatly the
+advantage; so that, after witnessing the style and fashion of St.
+Pierre, all, in this place, seems humble and inelegant.
+
+We had been taught to expect, that we should meet with a distressing
+scarcity of fresh provisions at St. Domingo, having heard that our
+comrades were paying so exorbitantly for them, as I mentioned to you
+from the Mole; but we find that, owing to a tolerable supply having been
+received by the American ships, this period of high extravagance has
+passed away, and provisions, if not more plentiful, may be had at a rate
+more reasonable than at Martinique.
+
+Dr. Jackson and myself have a general invitation to the dinner-table of
+the commander in chief and his staff. When we are not at the
+government-house, we dine at a French table d’hôte in the town. The
+tavern dinners are not in general so good, or so well served as at St.
+Pierre, but we cannot complain of any deficiency in the supply, or of
+any excess in the charge; for, in point of quantity, there is plenty;
+and at half the expense which we had been accustomed to pay at
+Martinique:—there, our dinners, with wine included, were four dollars
+each person—here, we pay only two. At Jamaica, likewise, where plenty
+abounds, the demand was higher than we find it here.
+
+The French, both military and civil, practise a rude custom at the
+public dinners, which is widely at variance with their boasted
+politeness. It being usual to place the dessert, the wine, the cheese,
+&c. upon the table, at the same time with the soup and the meat,
+displaying at once, all the provisions of the banquet, the Frenchmen,
+upon approaching the dinner-board, without waiting for the company to be
+seated, greedily snatch up the fruit, and place it by them in readiness
+to be eaten after they shall have dined. In like manner they seize a
+quantity of food, from each of the best dishes, heaping the whole upon
+their plates, to be afterwards devoured, as if they were afraid that the
+fowls and other provisions should fly away, before they could swallow
+their soup. This is a selfishness and want of good breeding, which John
+Bull, with all his abruptness, would find it extremely difficult to
+exhibit. A few days ago, seeing two fine melons, which were standing
+near me, about to be carried off, before any person had commenced
+eating, I took the liberty of laying an embargo upon the last piece, but
+it was at the risk of being lamed, by having a fork struck through my
+hand.
+
+We find the St. Domingo breakfast exceedingly pleasant—various kinds of
+fruits being served with the tea, chocolate and plantains. At the Mole
+we had grapes and figs, every morning: at Port au Prince we have melons,
+oranges, and avagata pears: the latter are of exquisite flavour. The
+pear is large—its colour either green, or slightly purple. It is not
+saccharine, like other fruits; the part used is a green pulp, formed
+between the peel and a large stone in the centre. This pulp, when ripe,
+is easily taken out with a tea-spoon, by cutting open the fruit, and
+removing the stone, round which it is formed, without adhering to it.
+Not unaptly, it has been said to resemble marrow, and has obtained the
+name of Sir Hans Sloane’s “vegetable marrow:” but you will form a better
+idea of its substance and flavour, by considering it to be like the
+inner pulp of the large pea used in England, called marrowfat—a quantity
+of this collected, free from the skins of the peas, and eaten with
+pepper and salt, although very inferior to it, would be more like the
+avagata pear than any other fruit or vegetable that is known in Europe.
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER L.
+
+
+                                                         Port au Prince.
+
+Since writing my last letter, I have had an opportunity of attending the
+Commander in Chief upon an expedition, which remained a secret at
+head-quarters, until the morning after we left Port au Prince. Having
+dined at the government-house, we set off, a party of five, viz. the
+Commander in Chief, Colonel Grant, Major Gillespie, Dr. Jackson, and
+myself, escorted by a troop of hussars. In the evening we arrived at the
+Croix des Bouquets, a town situated in the plain of the Cul de Sac,
+about twelve miles from Port au Prince. Here the General was received by
+Colonel O’Gorman, and Major le Pine (two of the foreign officers in
+British pay), at the head of a party of the garrison drawn up at the
+gate of the fort. We were soon afterwards conducted to the residence of
+Monsieur le Curé, where the Commander in Chief was provided for the
+night—the rest of the party finding quarters in the town. Before we
+separated, orders were given to the escort, announcing that the General
+would be on horseback at gun-fire in the morning.
+
+Colonel Grant and myself, being quartered in the same house, rose at
+five o’clock, and hastened to the Curé’s, where we found the hussars
+drawn up before the door, and the Commander in Chief mounting his horse.
+We were instantly on the march, and, soon after passing the outer gate
+of the town, the General mentioned the object of the expedition, viz. to
+witness the result of an attack, which he had ordered to be made upon a
+strong post of the brigands, in the mountains separating the valley of
+the Cul de Sac from the plain of Mirebalais; where they had maintained a
+commanding position for the last three or four years, to the great
+annoyance of our convoys, and of all persons possessing any property in
+that vicinity.
+
+Upon this elevated point they had assembled to the number of eight or
+nine hundred; and had so strongly fortified themselves as to consider
+the position secure against any force which the British commander might
+be able to detach. A body of troops had been ordered to proceed in three
+columns, with a view of assailing them, in so many different directions
+at the same time. We advanced near to the mountains, and within sight of
+the brigand post, without hearing any signal, or seeing any of the
+troops. We remained therefore only a short time below the hills, and
+after being three hours on horseback returned to the Croix des Bouquets
+to wait despatches from the officer appointed to command the attack.
+
+On arriving at Monsieur le Curé’s we found the breakfast-table spread
+with a copious repast, equally calculated for the hungry trooper, and
+for him who had quietly slumbered away his morning hours.
+
+The lamentable revolution has robbed the Curé of his appropriate, and
+more distinguish-home—his late residence having been converted into a
+fort, and the house into a barrack: but the change, which has placed him
+in a more humble abode, has not deprived him of his disposition to
+promote the comfort of those who visit him, whether friends or
+strangers.
+
+At the hour of dinner the plenteous board again displayed the bounty of
+the generous host; who provided an ample supply for a party of eighteen;
+our number being increased by some of the officers of the 21st dragoons,
+and others belonging to the garrison of the town.
+
+Just as we were seated at table a dragoon arrived, announcing the action
+to have commenced, between our troops, and the brigands in the
+mountains; and, on looking out, the post was discovered to be in flames;
+which augured favorably for the attacking party.
+
+We resumed our quarters at the Croix des Bouquets for the night, and on
+the following morning, escorted as before, returned to Port au Prince,
+where the General received despatches, informing him that the attack had
+succeeded to his wishes—the enemy being defeated, and the place in
+possession of our troops; but, we have to lament the loss of several
+brave men killed, and many wounded, the post having been defended with
+great obstinacy.
+
+This expedition afforded me an opportunity of seeing the plain of the
+Cul de Sac, to the extent of sixteen or eighteen miles; and I am sorry
+to observe that it exhibits one vast and melancholy picture of
+devastation; a considerable part of the town of Croix des Bouquets being
+involved in the same destructive fate.
+
+Before the revolution this fertile plain was one of the most improved
+spots in the West Indies, being, at that time, adorned with numbers of
+highly improved estates, handsome houses, rich gardens, and plenteous
+crops of sugar. Now it offers only the dismal marks of ruined greatness
+and beauty—displaying a grievous example of the evils which result from
+misguiding the passions of the ignorant by the abuse of a popular
+sentiment. If the people of France and the slaves of their colonies had
+been first taught to comprehend that true _liberty_ consisted in the
+privilege of enjoying their own rights, not in the destruction of the
+rights of others, that enchanting term could never have been so
+perverted to the misery of mankind. To force unlimited freedom upon
+slaves, who had always been governed by terror, was to surrender every
+consideration of justice, policy, and discretion, to a mere pretence—to
+a high-sounding but hollow humanity. It was to let loose the tiger
+without having the power of again subduing him, and can only be regarded
+as the act of a set of madmen.
+
+It is probable that the lately enviable plain of the Cul de Sac will
+soon revert to a wild forest, bearing no visible mark of its former
+cultivation; at present a naked chimney, part of a mill, the broken wall
+of a sugar-house, or some other ruin, lifts its head, here and there,
+above the aspiring thorn—some remains are likewise seen of the fine
+roads, the expensive aqueducts, and other improvements which enriched or
+embellished the teeming valley: but, unless the all-redeeming hand of
+industry shall resume its sway, the few remaining marks of its former
+influence will be speedily buried amidst the rapid vegetation of this
+prolific soil.
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER LI.
+
+
+                                                Cape St. Nicholas, Sept.
+
+You would not expect to hear, thus soon, that I had again changed my
+quarters; but it has been already my lot to be exposed to another sea
+voyage, from Port au Prince to the Mole. The disasters commenced with
+the embarkation; and were not less marked than upon former occasions.
+
+I felt it a fortunate circumstance to have again the opportunity of
+making the passage in so good a ship as the Lion. She was to sail at an
+early hour of the morning; I left my abode therefore about sunset the
+preceding evening, in order to go on board; but in my way to the wharf I
+was overtaken by one of those heavy storms of which, beyond the tropics,
+you can form no correct idea. The clouds seemed to burst asunder,
+emitting broad flashes of light, and rapid torrents of rain which
+quickly stood in floods around me. Finding it impossible to get on
+board, I waded back through the sea of the streets to my quarters,
+guided only by the lightning. It was late before the weather calmed; but
+I then renewed my attempt to reach the ship, when, unfortunately, one of
+the soldiers, who had charge of my baggage, not seeing the extent of the
+wharf, stepped over the edge of it into the sea, with the trunk upon his
+head. It was between ten and eleven o’clock—the darkness was
+impenetrable; and the man could not swim. Luckily the ship’s boat was
+nigh; and the sailors belonging to it instantly plunged into the water
+in search of the unfortunate soldier, who, by paddling and struggling,
+kept his head above the surface until they discovered him, and, to our
+surprise, brought him alive on shore.
+
+These interruptions made it nearly midnight before we reached the Lion;
+when we found the deck and every part of the ship in a state of hurry
+and confusion; I waited therefore, only to see our poor sufferer
+comfortably accommodated, then retired to my birth for the night.
+
+At seven the next morning we got under weigh, amidst a crowded and busy
+scene which none but sailors could reduce to any order or
+arrangement—many were hastening away from the ship—others scrambling up
+her sides to get on board—some of the sailors were heaving the anchor,
+others were running and jumping from place to place, about every part of
+the vessel, to work the ropes and sails, while the officers were calling
+out their orders in loud trumpet sounds: and in addition to the many
+concerns of his own ship, the captain had to take charge of twenty sail
+of traders, which were put under his convoy, in order to be protected
+against the brigands, who were extremely watchful and adventurous at
+several posts, between Port au Prince and the Mole.
+
+The cabin passengers were twelve in number, of different nations, sexes,
+and callings; besides whom we had some French nymphs of colour with
+their sable attendants; so that, together with the ship’s officers, a
+body of sixty invalid soldiers, and the white and black sailors, the
+whole formed a numerous and motley crew.
+
+A voyage of this kind is not so pleasant as to induce a wish for its
+repetition; but the opportunity it afforded of observing the manners and
+characters among people of different nations and colours well
+compensated the privation of those little comforts which cannot be
+commanded in such a situation.
+
+I am sorry to remark that a very shameful abuse is too often practised
+on board the English ships, regarding the property of the passengers;
+and that the French part of our company had much reason to lament it on
+our voyage from Port au Prince. In the ships of their own nation the
+passengers are treated with great attention and civility, and whatever
+belongs to them is respected: they complain, therefore, very bitterly of
+the plunder and dishonesty, which occur so frequently on board the
+British vessels. Wine, spirits, pickles, sweetmeats, &c. &c. if not
+secured under your own immediate care, seem to be held as articles of
+prize property; to be consumed by any who may have it in their power to
+seize them. Several packages belonging to the cabin passengers on board
+the Lion, were torn open and their contents devoured. Some of the cases,
+by way of better security, had been addressed in the name of the
+commandant, but even these did not escape the too general pillage; they
+were opened, and the bottles drained to the very dregs.
+
+During the voyage, many opportunities offered of conversing with, and
+hearing the remarks of the French women of colour, who appear to be far
+better informed, and more expert in the art _de faire l’agréable_, than
+the same classes in the Dutch or English colonies. Here, as in Europe, a
+conversation may be maintained with almost any order of French women, in
+a sprightly and agreeable manner; but, among the Dutch and the English,
+except with those of superior education, a mere social tête-à-tête,
+divested of particular interest, in either party, is commonly languid
+and insupportable. Nature has stamped a great variety, among the human
+species, upon the different parts of the globe; but education and habit
+often effect a diversity not less interesting or important; although, in
+some instances, they seem to produce an opposite result, by causing an
+affinity where nature has marked a vast discordance. In the French
+colonies, even the African and creole slaves assume the lively manners
+of their European masters.
+
+But I am straying from my voyage! let me return and inform you, that in
+the course of the second day’s sailing we passed St. Marc’s, and there
+exchanged part of our convoy; some of the vessels of our fleet leaving
+us to go into that port, and others from thence, joining us to proceed
+under our protection to the Mole; whence they were to be guarded by the
+British to the United States. During the following night we passed the
+port of Leogane, one of the posts occupied by the enemy; and at the
+moment we were sailing by it, a ship coming out of the harbour, stood
+directly for the convoy. On the supposition that it might be one of the
+armed vessels of the brigands, some alarm was excited among those of our
+little fleet who were nearest in shore, and a signal-gun was fired
+implying the approach of an enemy: but it was soon discovered to be an
+American trader. She was permitted therefore to join us, and proceed
+unmolested to the Mole. The property she contained might be French, or
+it might be American, but good-natured John Bull, in kindness to his
+transatlantic offspring, protects alike the vessels trading to his own
+ports, or to those of his enemy: the policy which dictates this
+proceeding is, of course, well advised; but, should one of the vessels
+of these, our republican brethren, join a French convoy upon coming out
+of a British port, it is highly probable that she would not only be
+exposed to a rigid examination, but captured and condemned as a prize.
+At the dawn of the third morning we had a view of Cap à Fou near the
+Mole, a dangerous post in possession of the brigands; and some of the
+fleet found themselves close under the point of land called the
+Platform. The breeze was favorable, and if we had not been detained by
+the slow-sailing vessels, we might have quickly ended our voyage—instead
+of which, we were compelled to pass the whole day, standing off and on,
+at the mouth of the harbour. Some of the quick-sailing ships, which were
+a-head of the Lion, impatient of being detained, very imprudently
+proceeded without waiting for the convoy.
+
+At an early hour the next morning we were lying upon the still surface
+of the sea, without the slightest breeze, and, at daylight, found
+ourselves farther from the Mole than we had been the preceding evening.
+This was the more vexatious, as we were in the precise latitude of
+calms; and at the very spot, where our delays had been so annoying on
+the passage from Jamaica: but we considered ourselves far from
+unfortunate, when, in the course of the day, a light breeze sprang up,
+and, with the aid of the current, carried us slowly into the harbour.
+
+On approaching we observed some of the headmost vessels of the convoy
+standing in, very near to Cap à Fou, and the guns firing from the
+batteries on shore, which led us to apprehend that the enemy’s barges
+were in chase of them; but they were too far advanced for us to
+ascertain the fact, or afford them any assistance. It was discovered,
+afterwards, that these vessels had been lucky enough to escape from
+their pursuers; but that two of those which had attempted to get in the
+preceding evening had been captured. The brigands, however, suffered for
+their temerity; for at the moment these traders were compelled to
+surrender off the very mouth of the bay, the Lively sloop happened to
+come in, well armed, from Jamaica; when the Admiral, with great
+promptitude, ordered an officer of the navy, and some additional sailors
+on board, and sent out this vessel against the enemy, accompanied with
+some men of war’s boats, and assisted by a party of troops detached by
+land. By this active little expedition, one of the brigand boats was
+captured, with ten or twelve of her crew either killed or wounded; and
+the two vessels of our convoy were retaken.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER LII.
+
+
+                                           Cape St. Nicholas Mole, Sept.
+
+As you assure me that every syllable respecting the prevailing disease
+of this climate is read with eager interest, I may mention two striking
+cases, which occurred upon our late passage.
+
+The morning after we left Port au Prince, the wife of one of the
+soldiers, a robust healthy woman, was seized with a severe febrile
+attack; the symptoms running so high as to threaten yellow fever in its
+most dangerous form. Early intimation of her illness was conveyed to the
+medical attendants, and we had the opportunity of taking away blood very
+soon after the invasion of the disease. An active medicine was likewise
+administered; and it was found necessary to repeat the bleeding in the
+evening. The next morning the fever had greatly abated, and, upon
+visiting her the day after, being the third day of the disease, I found
+her busily engaged at the wash-tub. The fastidious may seek objections,
+pretending that this was not a case of _yellow fever_; but, from the
+nature of the attack, and from all the experience I have had, I am
+persuaded that this poor woman would have been rapidly destroyed, under
+the most malignant symptoms of that disease, if it had not been
+prevented by the early use of the lancet.
+
+Only a short time after I had been called to this patient, we were
+hailed by the master of one of the American vessels, asking the captain
+if he had “any doctors on board,” and soliciting medical aid for one of
+his sailors, who, he said, was “seized with a violent fever.” A boat was
+hoisted out without delay, and I desired one of the hospital assistants
+to go and visit this American sailor, directing him, in the event of his
+finding the symptoms such as we had witnessed in the case of the
+soldier’s wife, to take from him twenty or thirty ounces of blood, to
+administer what other remedy should appear to be necessary, and to tell
+the captain to let us hear of him as early the next morning as he might
+have an opportunity of speaking the ship. The attack was found to be
+very similar to that of the woman: venæsection was consequently
+employed, and an evacuating medicine prescribed; but we heard nothing
+further from the sailor during the voyage. On sending to the vessel to
+ascertain how he was, upon completing the passage, our inquiries were
+met by the poor man’s grateful thanks, with the pleasing intelligence
+that he “recovered immediately after the bleeding.”
+
+The day we arrived at the Mole, the Drake and Pelican brigs of war came
+into harbour from a cruise—the Pelican having on board some French or
+brigand sailors to place in the naval hospital. By the humane exertions
+of the British, these men had been saved from a sinking privateer, which
+had ventured to attack the Pelican, in the hope of making her a prize.
+Scarcely could the crew have been more unfortunate than in attempting
+this vessel, for she is equally celebrated on account of carrying an
+uncommon weight of metal, as for having fought many brave and successful
+actions during the war. In less than half an hour from the commencement
+of the fight she drove the privateer to the bottom of the ocean. It is
+melancholy to know that not less than eighty hands were on board, and
+that with all the best exertions of the Pelican’s company, only a small
+number of them could be saved, among whom were some so frightfully
+burned that they were horrid and miserable figures to behold.
+
+Upon conversing with these men, in the hospital, I learned that they
+were actually blown out of the ship into the sea, by the explosion of
+the privateer, before she went down, and that by this accident alone
+they escaped the fate of their companions. Some of them were scorched
+and blistered from head to foot, and were lying in agonizing tortures.
+Among these wretched sufferers I observed two men and a boy who, from
+the appearance of the small portion of skin which remained upon them,
+must have been either Europeans, or the offspring of European parents.
+It is not incurious to witness the medley of different colours, and
+different nations assembled in this asylum of the sick. Regardless of
+all the contentions and jealousies of war, our hospitals are the general
+receptacles of the afflicted. Friends and foes are equally admitted, and
+relief is impartially administered to all. Here are associated Africans,
+French, Spaniards, Creoles, English, Scots, and Irish, sharing, in
+common, the soothing balm of humanity. Being disabled, notwithstanding
+it be in the field of strife, enmity is banished, and they participate,
+as friends, the cares and duties which are indiscriminately dispensed to
+those who are sick, or wounded.
+
+In our walk through the hospital, we found one of the wards filled with
+inhabitants, still less to be expected than any of the foregoing; viz. a
+crowd of enormous turtles. These had been brought to the Mole by one of
+the ships of war for the use of the sick. They were placed upon their
+backs, each having its head supported by a large stone. In this
+situation they were kept alive by wetting their eyes every morning with
+sea water. They are used for the patients in the hospital by being
+cooked into a plain nutritive broth; and in this humble form they
+constitute a very valuable supply of wholesome food, amidst the paucity
+of fresh animal provisions.
+
+Many of the sick, in the naval hospital, are afflicted with scurvy; many
+also with dysentery, and, in these cases, the turtle broth forms an
+excellent support. The convalescents, likewise, from fever, and from
+wounds, find it a very nourishing diet.
+
+On my first arrival at the Mole I mentioned to you the very barren
+aspect of the surrounding territory, and I may now remark, that it does
+not improve upon acquaintance. In my rides to the hospitals, barracks,
+and outworks, at short distances from the town, I find the general face
+of the country dreary and sterile almost beyond example. Never did
+mountains exhibit a more naked and unfruitful appearance. They seem to
+be so entirely arid and unproductive as to afford no provision for man
+or beast, nor scarcely for bird or insect. Still the immediate scene
+around the town must have been much worse before the place was captured
+by the English; for, since it has been in our possession, several
+barracks, hospitals, and block-houses, have been erected upon different
+eminences, placing so many objects in view, and giving a degree of
+animation and diversity to the picture.
+
+In a cool, elevated situation, above the town, is an extensive barrack,
+which was the remotest position established by the French. The part
+built by them is of stone; and, by a _wooden_ addition, we have most
+unwisely converted the structure into a close square—perhaps the worst
+form that could be contrived, in this country, for any habitation
+intended to be occupied by a crowded body of people.
+
+This building is now unoccupied, in consequence of the number of troops
+being diminished, and the line of defence extended to a greater distance
+up the hills, by a chain of new barracks and block-houses, sufficient to
+accommodate all the present garrison. The height of the rocks, their
+steep and rugged form, and the general rudeness of their barren surface,
+seem to bid defiance to the approach of an enemy; and, as defended by
+the late improvements ordered by General Whyte, the Mole, if adequately
+garrisoned, might probably be secure against any force which the
+brigands, or the republicans now in the island, could bring against it:
+but with the enemy in possession of the surrounding territory, and
+acquainted with the weakened state of the garrison, we cannot feel
+ourselves quite safe against an attack.
+
+In the days of our pleasant mess on board the Lord Sheffield, it was the
+favorite anticipation of our party, that if we should chance to be
+serving in the same colony at the conclusion of the war, or at the time
+of our being recalled to England, we should contrive, if possible, to
+visit the United States of America, together, on our way home. The idea
+was then so grateful to me that I have never abandoned it, and
+notwithstanding my then happy, and social comrades are widely separated
+by death, or other causes, I still look with hope to this excursion as a
+journey not only of high gratification, but of faithful devotion to the
+memory of a party of congenial friends, who can never meet again.
+
+My desire to visit the northern, is further strengthened by the
+opportunity I have had of residing in the southern part of the American
+continent; and whenever it shall be my lot to return to England, I shall
+earnestly endeavour to make the voyage by way of the United States.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER LIII.
+
+
+                                                      St. Domingo, 1797.
+
+You tell me that you are anticipating the perusal of a summary account
+of the slaves, and state of slavery in the West Indies; but, with every
+desire to meet your wishes, I feel myself incompetent to the task of
+directing my pen, upon this subject, in such a manner as may gratify
+your expectations. I can only offer you, therefore, a few general
+remarks, which may serve as a recapitulation of the desultory notes,
+which have been already transmitted to you as circumstances chanced to
+fall in my path.
+
+You know already that the blacks are purchased upon the coast of Africa,
+and brought from thence, to the West Indies, in trading ships, fitted
+out expressly for that purpose. These vessels are the property of
+individual merchants; and the profit or loss of the adventure rests upon
+the same chances as in other articles of traffic; but the number, or
+quantum of the cargo is now regulated by act of parliament, and cannot
+exceed a given proportion according to the ship’s tonnage. In addition
+to the common feelings of humanity, it is made the interest of all
+concerned, to treat these poor Africans well upon the voyage;
+consequently ill usage and unnecessary severities are carefully avoided,
+and the cruelties which we read of are no longer practised. They are
+kept upon deck in the day-time, and induced, by the cheering sound of
+their favorite banjar, to dance and jump about, by way of exercise. Many
+of them are taught to pull the ropes, and assist in working the ship;
+and it is often surprising to observe their expertness, and the progress
+they make, during the voyage, in performing the sailors’ duties.
+
+The men and women are separated from each other, by a boarded partition,
+placed across the vessel. They are fed with rice, or Guinea corn, the
+pounding and preparing of which afford them a source of exercise and
+employment. They have a great amusement in collecting together in
+groups, and singing their favorite African songs, in which the energy of
+their action is more remarkable than the harmony of the music. They
+sleep between decks, upon the bare boards of the empty cabins—the men
+below the middle hatchway, the women in the aft cabin. In these births
+they are necessarily much crowded, only twenty inches of board being
+allowed for each person; and, notwithstanding every care being taken to
+preserve a free ventilation, still, from being thus stowed together, the
+heat and fœtor of the place become intolerably offensive. But they are
+removed at an early hour in the morning, and great attention is paid to
+cleanliness, by daily washing the cabins, and leaving them as open as
+possible to the sun and the breeze—the purification being effected with
+greater facility in consequence of neither furniture, bedding, nor
+clothing being allowed.
+
+Like the cargoes of any other species of merchandise, the slaves are
+regularly consigned to an agent for sale; and, in the course of a few
+days after their arrival, having acquired their best appearance, by
+resting from the fatigue of the voyage, and being well rubbed and
+cleaned, or even oiled, and blacked, and polished so as to have sleek
+and healthy-looking skins, they are exposed by auction or otherwise, and
+unreservedly sold to the planters, merchants, and other inhabitants of
+the colony,—each becoming as exclusively the property of the purchaser
+as his ox, or his ass, or any thing that is his!
+
+After the sale they are conducted to the respective homes of their new
+masters; the separating from each other, often becoming their severest
+trial—their heaviest and most bitter affliction: but, to the credit of
+the parties concerned, it is contrived, as much as possible, to sell
+those who are of one family, to the same purchaser, in order to spare
+them the pangs of parting: still this cannot, in all cases, be
+accomplished, and the scene of separation is sometimes truly melancholy
+and affecting. Having reached the abodes of their several owners, they
+are soothed by meeting with their countrymen; and some of the old
+negroes are instructed to cheer and console them, by talking to them in
+their own language, and representing that, by good conduct, they may
+ensure good treatment, and make themselves happy. Next they are
+designated with appropriate appellations, each having the name assigned
+to him placed round his neck, written upon a card, or a piece of wood.
+Commonly the christening and marriage form but one ceremony—the men
+being desired to choose their wives at the time they are named; and they
+are paired off accordingly.
+
+The present price of a healthy negro is from fifty to eighty pounds
+sterling, according to his age, and strength. The creoles, particularly
+if cooks, or mechanics, such as tailors, carpenters, or the like, are
+valued at twenty or thirty, or even sixty pounds more than the untried
+Africans; who, besides requiring to be taught, may prove to be subject
+to some malady, or may fall a sacrifice to the seasoning. Women, and
+boys sixteen or seventeen years old, are considered to be of nearly
+equal value; but they are somewhat cheaper than the men.
+
+For a considerable time after their arrival it is usual to put them only
+to light work, treating them with gentleness, and making their
+employment more an object of amusement than of fatigue. Thus they are
+gradually trained to the common round of toil, which, after all that is
+said and written upon the subject, is not so severe or oppressive, as
+general opinion in Europe represents it. It is compulsory, and therefore
+performed with reluctance: but the labour is not more heavy, nor the day
+longer, than that of the poor in other countries. They are not required
+to toil during more than twelve hours of the twenty-four; and due
+intervals are allowed for taking rest and food. The climate is
+undoubtedly more exhausting than that of Europe, but the quantum of work
+performed is proportionate. The labour of an industrious English
+peasant, or mechanic amounts, perhaps, to three or four times as much,
+within the twelve hours, as is accomplished, within the same period, by
+a slave. Besides which, it should be taken into the account, that the
+temperature is congenial to the negroes; in proof of which, I have
+observed it to be a common practice among them, instead of retiring into
+the shade, to eat their dinners, and bask away the whole hour allotted
+them, in the open field, exposed to the direct rays of the sun.
+
+It is always the interest of the master to be kind and considerate
+towards his slaves; for, if they become sickly, and unfit for labour,
+they will be only an useless expense to him. Among the planters, who
+possess large bodies of them, their hours of rest and toil are regular
+and proportioned: they are fitly clothed, and amply fed, and are less
+frequently treated with severity. It is among a different class of
+owners whose bread is earned by the toil of a smaller number, or who
+have only a single slave, that the unhappy blacks are ill-fed,
+hard-worked, and often punished.
+
+From much, and careful observation, I am authorized to remark that the
+planters in general are humane and merciful, and do not exact immoderate
+toil: with them the slaves have a certain round of duty, which cannot be
+regarded as excessive or severe, being such as may be performed without
+any hurtful exertion. Still, humanity is shocked that hosts of our
+species should be brought to public market—sold like sheep or pigs—and
+driven to work, like cart-horses, with whips at their backs; and upon
+this ground it is, that the whole system of slavery must be condemned;
+for, notwithstanding the great majority of owners may be duly careful of
+their negroes, it must be eternally unjust, and repugnant to every
+proper sentiment, that any individual, possessing the common frailties
+of our nature, should have absolute, and unlimited control over others
+of his fellow-beings.
+
+A man may be generally humane and considerate, and may recollect, upon
+all common occasions, that it is equally consistent with his duty and
+his interest to be tender toward his slaves; but it is too certain that
+there are moments of ungovernable feeling, when no consciousness of
+interest or propriety can prevail; and, when the individual, however
+kind in his usual conduct, should not be left, unrestrained by the laws,
+to wreak his vengeance upon another; for, no man, however just,
+honorable, and correct in his ordinary dealings, can be, at all moments,
+fit to be intrusted with the fourfold power of accuser, witness, judge,
+and executioner!
+
+And, if periods may occur, when even good men may be so led away by
+their passions, as to interrupt the general consistency of their
+characters, and conduct themselves with inhumanity, how dreadful is the
+reflection that those, who, even in their best moments, are not governed
+by the same amiable feelings, should, upon all occasions, possess the
+same absolute authority!
+
+Stupidity, obstinacy, and revenge, constitute the more prominent
+features in the character of slaves—forming the cruel mark, stamped upon
+them by the very nature of their situation; for, the man being degraded,
+the mind naturally becomes debased. Sunk in the darkest ignorance, they
+are wholly devoid of principle: having no sense of moral duty, they
+thieve, lie, and cheat without restraint, considering the crime to
+consist only in being detected: governed solely by fear, they scarcely
+comprehend the doctrine of right and wrong. They are depressed below all
+proper sense of shame, or elevation; and, being too imbecile to reason
+upon what is fit and best, in a general view, they have no consideration
+beyond self-interest, and the gratification of the present moment. Deep
+sulkiness, idleness, deceit, and low cunning are among their most
+conspicuous qualities; and if, from these feelings, they are liable to
+offend the temper, and provoke the irascibility of those about them, it
+is evident that it must require great forbearance and self-control not
+to treat them with severity—hence, the impropriety of their being left
+at the will and mercy of those, whose power over them is arbitrary and
+unbounded[13].
+
+As it is the effect of bondage to debase the mind of the slave, so is it
+the natural effect of governing slaves to render the master
+inconsiderate and severe: it destroys all the finer feelings, and, by
+permitting men to indulge, instead of compelling them to conceal their
+passions, begets inordinate and cruel habits, even among those in whose
+bosoms nature had not implanted them. The laws of a well-ordered state
+may have the power of rendering bad men good in effect, by causing them
+to keep a constant watch over their passions, and teaching them to
+subdue the worst feelings of their nature: but the governing of slaves
+produces a directly opposite result, and tends to make the best men bad,
+by removing all control, and suffering their worst passions to riot in
+lawless sway.
+
+One master may be severe, and punish for the slightest fault—another may
+miscalculate, and fancy it his interest to overwork his slaves; and
+others may distress them, from feelings of ill-will: also, if the
+master, whose real interest it is to cherish and protect his negroes, be
+kind and humane towards them, the manager, the overseer, or the driver,
+who has not the same motives of interest to check him, may be cruel, and
+inflict great severities, without the owner’s knowledge; for, a slave
+has no hope of being heard in appealing against a white man; nor would
+he dare to complain to the master, against those who wield the scourge,
+lest resentment should multiply the affliction: hence, as every man is
+frail, every slave must be liable to be ill treated, from one cause or
+other. It cannot therefore be contended that the system is otherwise
+than radically bad.
+
+But, with respect to the acute feelings of the slaves, and the anguish
+they suffer from a sense of the galling oppression to which they are
+exposed, the case is not so grievous as it is sometimes represented;
+for, very few, if any of them comprehend the advantages of freedom, or
+reflect with poignancy upon the vast and bitter distinctions between
+that condition and the ignominious state of slavery. I have frequently
+taken the opportunity of leading the negroes into conversation,
+expressly for the purpose of ascertaining their sentiments upon this
+head; but I never met with one, either male or female, who knew how to
+estimate properly, or, indeed, fully to understand the difference. To
+the plain question, whether it would not be a great happiness to them to
+have their freedom, they commonly reply by asking, what they could do if
+they were free—who would give them food—who supply them with
+clothing—or, who send them a doctor when sick? thus implying that, in
+their neglected minds, the _freedom from care_ is a compensation for
+their manifold privations. Many of them have been known even to refuse
+their proffered enfranchisement; and others, who have been liberated,
+have voluntarily continued the habits and toils of slavery. It will
+occur to you that, in these cases, they must have been well treated by
+their owners.
+
+Although considerations of humanity must silence every syllable that
+might be urged in defence of slavery, still, upon the ground of policy,
+and the actual state of West India possession, the subject of
+emancipation claims the most calm and attentive investigation. It is a
+question upon which conflicting opinions are entertained; and many
+persons, on either side, who might give a deliberate and unbiassed
+judgment upon other matters, are too much under the influence of
+prejudice with regard to this: but, the very existence of discordant
+sentiments ought to teach all parties a lesson of the greatest caution.
+Many well-informed colonists reduce the inquiry to a simple
+question—whether the cultivation of the settlements should be continued
+or abandoned? insisting that there can be no middle course! Some, led
+away by a mistaken philanthropy, contend for a general and immediate
+emancipation, upon the plea that the colonies might be cultivated, and
+our West India commerce preserved, without slaves; whilst others,
+weighing minutely the justice and policy, as well as the humanity of the
+proceeding, are advocates for a slow and gradual enlargement; but in a
+matter of such magnitude and importance, a circumspect measure of steady
+operation must, undoubtedly, be far preferable to a hasty act, which,
+however well intended, might only multiply the evil it is designed to
+remove.
+
+The abolition of the importation of slaves, from Africa[14], might be a
+task of less difficulty than the emancipation of those already in the
+colonies. To accomplish the former, with equal benefit and humanity, a
+wise system of regulations should be established in the settlements; and
+the arrangement should be concerted in conjunction with the other
+nations engaged in this unnatural traffic. The creole slaves are of
+higher value than those imported; but, while common calculation shows it
+to be cheaper to purchase a negro than to breed one up, it is not to be
+expected that the greatest possible care will be taken, and all the
+requisite means employed to increase the population of the creoles. It
+might, therefore, be an act of the highest policy to prohibit the
+importation, and thereby render it the general and individual interest
+of the colonists to introduce every useful regulation; more particularly
+for the better accommodation of the pregnant females, and their
+offspring: but, as it is doubtful, whether, under a sudden suspension of
+the trade, any plan could be adopted to insure an increase, or even a
+continuance of the existing population, it is necessary that the
+abolition, as well as the emancipation, should be gradually effected.
+Perhaps, with this view, it might be proper, among other regulations, to
+allow certain vessels to continue the importation for a limited period,
+requiring that each of them should bring an increased number of females,
+in every future cargo, in order that there may be an adequate proportion
+of women in the colonies at the time of the final prohibition.
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER LIV.
+
+
+In complying with your wish that I should send you a letter exclusively
+upon the subject of the disease which has committed such afflicting
+ravages in our army, I shall confine myself principally to what concerns
+the nature of the disorder, feeling that a minute detail of the
+symptoms, and mode of treatment would not only be less interesting, but
+perhaps very tedious to you.
+
+After all that I have been able to observe, with respect to this
+dreadful complaint, I think that, considering it as a malady of the West
+India colonies, it may be correctly regarded as the effect of climate,
+operating upon exotic bodies. It is the fever of the country—an endemial
+malady, which attacks those, most severely, whose general vigour, and
+whose firmness, or density of fibre offer the strongest resistance. To
+look for it in ships and vessels;—to strain the eye across the ocean, in
+order to fix its birth-place upon the opposite coast of the Atlantic, or
+to trace its descent from the shores of the Indian seas, would be to
+overlook the reality in search of a phantom! It needs no foreign parent:
+the earth is its mother: its father the sun.
+
+When Europeans first take up their residence in the West Indies, it is
+usual for them, sooner or later after their arrival, to undergo an
+attack of fever; which in times of peace and tranquillity, when the
+“_new-comers_” are but few, is termed a “_seasoning fever_;” but in
+times of war, when, from great multitudes arriving at the same period,
+its destructive effects are more striking, is called a “_yellow fever_;”
+but, whether denominated “_seasoning_” or “_yellow_,” or marked by any
+other appellation, it is only the common bilious fever of hot climates:
+and it appears under an intermittent, a remittent, or a continued form,
+according to the soil and situation of the place; or the habit of body,
+and other circumstances of the person attacked. In negroes and creoles
+it is frequently an ague; in those who are in a degree acclimated a
+remittent; and in _new-comers_ a _continued_, or, as it is commonly
+termed, a _yellow_ fever; preserving, in each case, a distinct type
+throughout its course; while, in other instances of its attack upon
+Europeans, it shifts its form, and runs its progress with the utmost
+irregularity: in proof of which I may remark that it has happened to
+myself to receive newly arrived soldiers into the hospital, at the same
+time, with this seasoning malady, under all the varieties of its
+intermittent, remittent, and continued form: and notwithstanding each
+has been differently attacked, all of them have died, in the course of
+only a few days, with every symptom of the most malignant _yellow_
+fever.
+
+Nature, in her fostering care, hath endowed the human frame with the
+power of accommodating itself to all the various climates upon the
+habitable regions of our globe; yet hath she more expressly adapted our
+organs to the particular climate in which she hath stationed us: so
+constituting the nice and delicate movements of the animal machine, that
+we cannot, without peril, expose ourselves to sudden or violent
+transitions.
+
+To the inhabitants of different regions is given something of
+constitutional difference, which it would be difficult precisely to
+define: but it belongs to a certain original conformation, creating a
+difference of fibre or stamina, which more particularly befits the body
+for the specific region, in which it is designed to move: yet, while
+much is attributed to nature, it ought not to be forgotten that habit
+follows nature very closely, in her influence upon the human frame; and
+hence it is that by long residence, and similarity of pursuit, so near
+an approach to this specific and original structure may be acquired, as
+to promote healthy action, in a being removed to a foreign, and even to
+an ungenial climate: still, this is only the yielding of a body
+originally different; for the assimilation is never so complete as to be
+in all respects the same. The constitution of a negro from Africa, or
+the West Indies, never becomes entirely British, although he remain in
+England the greater number of his days: and however much an European, by
+long residence in the West Indies, be brought to resemble a creole, he
+can never acquire, precisely, the constitution of a native: some marks
+of original conformation will still exist, and something, even in his
+general appearance, to distinguish him.
+
+Nor is this difference of organization confined to the human subject:
+other animal bodies, and also vegetables differ in their structure and
+external appearance, in different climates. The wool of sheep, removed
+from a northern region to the West Indies, becomes hair; and the almost
+tasteless potatoe of Europe assumes a strong saccharine flavour from
+tropical culture.
+
+The influence of the atmosphere, not only in different climates, but
+under its various changes in the same climate, is, at all times, and in
+all countries, far greater than common opinion supposes: nor has the
+attention of medical men been sufficiently directed to this
+circumstance, although it is of great magnitude. Hypochondriacs, persons
+subject to rheumatism, or asthma, and those afflicted with painful
+thickenings of the cuticle (usually termed corns), become exquisitely
+sensible of the slightest variations in the state of the atmosphere;
+whence it may be concluded, that it cannot but operate, at all moments,
+with a powerful effect upon the tender fibres of our delicately
+organized vessels; and if, in our native region, the influence be so
+considerable, must it not be infinitely more important, upon the body
+being exposed to the stronger impressions of an unnatural climate,
+
+                “... where the sun, with downward torrid ray,
+          _Kills_ with the barb’rous glories of the day?”
+
+Without entering more minutely into the subject, suffice it to remark,
+that there appears to be a certain gradation in the tone, or firmness of
+the animal fibre, as we proceed from the hotter through the more
+temperate regions; not following in exact mathematical proportion, but
+sufficiently manifest to form some standard for general observation;
+and, perhaps, to sanction the assumption that the density or laxity of
+the human fibre bears an intimate alliance with the temperature of the
+climate, with respect to heat or cold; although it may be influenced,
+likewise, by other circumstances; such as the dryness or moisture of the
+atmosphere, the state of the soil, the manner of clothing, and the
+habits pursued. In the colder regions towards the poles, the fibre is
+firmer, the circulation of the fluids slower, and the secretions are
+more languid; while in the warmer regions, near the equator, the fibre
+is lax, respiration quicker, the circulation more rapid, and the
+secretions are more copious, and more speedily performed. In order,
+therefore, to fit the constitution of a polar inhabitant for a tropical
+climate, or to accommodate the system of a tropical inhabitant to a
+polar atmosphere, it is needful that the change should be gradual, that
+the necessary density or laxity be induced, with as little risk as
+possible of disorganization, and consequent dissolution[15]. Not only do
+the inhabitants of cold climates suffer, on being transferred to the
+tropical regions—the negroes can as ill support the change to a northern
+atmosphere. They are frequently the victims of being brought to Europe:
+amidst the cold of our winter, all their energies seem to be destroyed,
+and their faculties benumbed: they seldom live to old age, but,
+commonly, sink into marasmus, or are cut off by early consumption.
+
+Fever, excessive heat, violent passion, or any other cause which
+greatly, and suddenly hurries the circulation of the fluids, diminishes
+the tone and energy of the living animal fibre, and deprives it of that
+degree of firmness which is necessary to health; but, by gradually
+habituating the body to the change, a high degree of increased
+circulation, or a considerable diminution of the original density of
+fibre may be supported, without any consequent derangement of structure:
+the increased action of the vessels, the augmented velocity of the
+fluids, and the subsequent laxity of fibre, induced by great heat, or
+high fever, may be borne, provided they are not so sudden, nor so long
+continued, as to cause disorganization.
+
+We have many familiar examples which testify the effect of original
+conformation, and the powerful influence of habit upon the animal body,
+with respect to its state of health or disease. If a person accustomed
+to live in the gloom of London should expose his face, for only a short
+time, to the full rays of the sun, at Brighton, the skin would be
+separated as if by the application of a blister; but if a hardy shepherd
+of the downs were to lie upon the hills, with his face open to the broad
+sun, throughout the day, not the smallest part of the cuticle would be
+disturbed.
+
+A negro, to whom the climate is congenial, can run over the hills in the
+West Indies, for many hours in succession without suffering the
+slightest inconvenience: but if an European of more unyielding fibre,
+and only lately arrived within the tropics, were to follow him in such a
+course, it would be more than probable—it would be almost certain, that,
+within a few succeeding hours, a fever would complete the
+disorganization, and send him to the grave.
+
+So the fluids of a racer may be hurried violently through his vessels,
+without any injury to the natural organization: but if an unpractised
+horse, of a different original conformation, were to be taken from the
+cart and made to gallop, with all possible speed, over a course of four
+or six miles, it is probable that from the increased impulse, and the
+resistance of his unaccommodating fibre, fever, disorganization, and
+death would speedily ensue.
+
+In cold or temperate climates, bulls are baited, and hares hunted, in
+order that the sound texture of their fibres may be broken down, and the
+muscles made tender, by their dying in the fever of increased and
+violent circulation. This is a fact so well known to sportsmen, that a
+hunted hare is always preferred to one that has been shot, or taken by
+other means.
+
+Epicures let their meat hang after it is killed, until the atmosphere
+has effected the same purpose, by a different process, and it be made
+tender by a decomposition, or partial putrefaction. But in the West
+Indies, it is common to see the animal alive in the market, and to have
+its joints smoking upon table the same day at dinner: it is slaughtered,
+dressed, and eaten, without the flesh growing cold; yet there is no
+complaint of the meat being hard or tough.
+
+These remarks will serve to lead your attention more particularly to the
+subject of climate, and to the effects of habit and original
+conformation. Without attempting to enter more particularly into the
+various changes, which the febrile action produces in destroying life,
+or the specific mode in which these changes are effected, I may state a
+few other general circumstances, which will show the application, of
+what has been already said, to the subject in question, viz. the
+continued, or _yellow_ fever.
+
+Creoles and negroes are not subject to the fever in its continued, or
+most malignant form: when it invades them, it appears under a remittent
+or intermittent type. In these classes the original conformation, aided
+by a constant exposure to the heat and atmosphere of these regions, has
+established a due state of fibre, and given to the body a certain
+congeniality which empowers it to continue its healthy action, amidst
+all the circumstances of climate and situation.
+
+Europeans, who have resided during a period of several years in the West
+Indies, are seldom attacked with the fever in its continued form; when
+it seizes them, it commonly assumes the type of a remittent. In persons
+of this class, the body, from long exposure to the climate, has become
+creolised, approaching to the conformation of the natives, by having the
+original firmness of fibre reduced to the appropriate standard for
+continuing the healthy action, under exposure to preternatural heat.
+
+The strongest men—those of the most dense or rigid fibre are most
+subject to the high degrees of the continued, or _yellow_ fever; and are
+most frequently, and most rapidly destroyed by it. Women, children,
+convalescents from former malady, and those who have been reduced by the
+use of mercurial remedies are less frequently the objects of its attack:
+and when it seizes them, it is usually milder, and less rapid in its
+progress. In these classes, the state of the animal fibre, either from
+original conformation, or from eventual circumstances, more nearly
+approaches to that of the creoles and natives.
+
+In North America, the inhabitants, who constantly reside in the most
+southern states, are seldom attacked with the fever in its more violent,
+or continued form; while those of the north-east states are destroyed by
+it in great numbers: but, even in these districts, it is remarked that
+the fever more readily seizes strangers from Europe, or peasants from
+the interior provinces, than the natives of the towns, in which the
+disease prevails. These facts are striking, and they seem to admit of
+ready explanation. The inhabitants of the southern states, from being
+subject to constant heat, are acclimated, and, in constitution, approach
+nearly to the creoles or natives of the West Indies: but those residing
+in the more northern states, although exposed to a very high degree of
+heat during the summer, can never become creolised, on account of the
+intervening winter, which annually renews the predisposition, and
+creates a susceptibility of the disease; still, from living, during part
+of the year, in excessive heat, and remaining, at all times, in the
+atmosphere of their towns, the inhabitants of the place, where the
+disease prevails, are, in some degree, less susceptible of the most
+malignant form of the fever, than strangers from Europe, or peasants
+from the inland districts, whose more dense and rigid fibre renders them
+in a peculiar manner predisposed.
+
+From these remarks, it appears that the presence of contagion is in no
+degree necessary to the production of this fever. Indeed its invasion is
+governed by circumstances very opposite to the known laws of contagion:
+for, in proportion as the body approaches the creole structure, so is it
+able to support the change of temperature, and to resist the fatal
+effects of the seasoning malady. If the constitution, either from
+natural organization, or from long residence, be assimilated to the
+climate, _i. e._ if it be reduced to the common standard of the creoles,
+there is nothing to apprehend from the disease: but if it be not, the
+fever will, assuredly, make its attack, without waiting for any such
+cause as contagion.
+
+Moreover, if it can be ascertained, that certain classes of people are
+most liable to be attacked, and if it can be proved that there is a
+regular gradation, according as they have been more or less exposed to
+the influence of climate, it must be equally unnecessary and
+unphilosophical to call in the aid of a power, the application of whose
+laws it were impossible to reconcile with the appearances observed. No
+disease of known contagion is affected by the events which are, daily,
+seen to govern the progress of the yellow fever; if, therefore,
+contagion be regarded as the parent of this disease, it must be a
+contagion of a very uncommon and peculiar nature; for it is a
+circumstance, both singular and unprecedented, that an active and
+wide-spreading contagion, prevailing in any particular country, should,
+expressly, avoid the inhabitants of that country, and only lie in wait
+for strangers; and, further, that should these not chance to arrive, for
+many years, it would remain dormant throughout the whole period, and,
+again, rush forth with undiminished vigour, the very moment when
+strangers should appear! I think I might say, with the greatest
+correctness, that if no person from a colder climate, should visit the
+West India colonies for the space of five, ten, or any given number of
+years, no instance of the yellow fever, distinct from the bilious
+remittent fever of the country, would be known, during that period; yet,
+if a body of men, unaccustomed to the climate, should arrive from
+Europe, in the month of July or August immediately succeeding, a
+considerable proportion of them would be seized, and probably destroyed
+by this disease, before they had commemorated the first return of a new
+year: but, can it be supposed that a most subtile and active contagion
+would thus remain latent, for any specified term, amidst whole hosts of
+natives, and suddenly resume all its destructive powers, as soon as a
+body of more robust foreigners should come within its reach?
+
+In England, the harvest-men and strangers, who go into the fens of Kent,
+or Lincolnshire in the autumn, are more readily attacked with the
+endemial fever of those counties, than the inhabitants, who constantly
+dwell in the atmosphere which causes it; yet we do not learn that,
+during the prevalence of any contagious malady in these districts, the
+contagion cautiously avoids the men of Kent or Lincolnshire, to lie in
+wait for strangers; nor, perhaps, will any physician venture to assert
+that the Kentish fever is produced by infection.
+
+It would seem more probable that the contagion, common to any particular
+country, should seize the natives of that country. The plica Polonica
+shuns not the people of Poland; nor the sibbens those of Scotland:
+neither do the yaws spare the creoles, or the Africans. But what appears
+most surprising is, that this very extraordinary contagion should not
+attack the languid blacks of the West Indies; yet when it arrives in
+America, that it should seize the more robust negroes of the United
+States.
+
+This is a fact, which is totally irreconcileable upon the principle of
+the disease proceeding from contagion. The negro of the West Indies,
+from always living in a high degree of heat, has no susceptibility: but
+the negro of America acquires a predisposition from the recurrent cold
+of the winter. The fibre of the one is relaxed, and yielding—of the
+other dense and resisting. In the same way it is explained why the
+inhabitants of Louisiana, Georgia, and the Carolinas, are less subject
+to the disease, than those of Virginia, Pennsylvania, and New York. Did
+the fever spread itself by contagion, we know of no cause why it should
+extend its ravages to the north instead of the south; why it should
+seize whites in preference to blacks; why a vigorous European rather
+than a languid creole; nor, why it should avoid the sable race of the
+West Indies, yet affect the negroes of North America.
+
+It is not a law of contagion to make its attack upon the strongest
+people: more commonly it assails those of tender fibre. Were any given
+number of healthy men, and an equal number of children to be exposed, at
+the same time, to the influence of the contagion of small-pox, measles,
+or scarlatina, common observation informs us that the children would be
+found to be most susceptible of the impression, and attacked in the
+greatest number: but the very reverse of this would be the case if they
+were to be exposed, in a similar manner, to the cause producing the
+yellow fever—the men would be found to be most susceptible, and a
+greater proportion of them would fall victims to the disease.
+
+Not only does this fever invade Europeans, newly arrived in the West
+Indies, in preference to creoles, negroes, and those who, by a
+long-continued residence, have become acclimated; but even among these
+unhappy Europeans, who happen to be susceptible, the most healthy and
+robust, and, in general, those who are the earliest subjected to great
+exertions, and the high degrees of temperature, are sooner seized, and
+more rapidly destroyed, than those of laxer fibre, or those who have the
+opportunity of becoming more gradually enured to the climate.
+
+But the “New-comers,” if exposed to the yaws, the cra-cra, or any other
+disease of decided contagion, are not found to be more susceptible than
+the creoles, or the negroes: although, with regard to the bites of
+musquitoes and other insects, the difference of effect upon the
+Europeans, and the people of the climate, is as peculiarly marked, as it
+is with respect to the yellow fever. The small puncture made in the skin
+of a robust European by a musquito, or a sand-fly, frequently becomes
+inflamed, tumefies, breaks into a sore, spreads into a malignant ulcer,
+and, ultimately, robs the hardy son of the North of his life; while the
+languid creole, or the negro, quietly lets the insect bite, without
+apprehending any of this sad train of consequences.
+
+Seeing that the fever can, unquestionably, originate without contagion,
+some contend that, in its passage through the body, it generates a
+matter, which is capable of producing the disease, by being diffused in
+the atmosphere, and that it, thus, becomes infectious. But even in this
+widest sense of the term, I cannot consider it to be either a contagious
+or infectious malady; for it does not appear that, by any inherent
+process, the living human body has the power of generating the _pabulum_
+necessary for the production or support of this fever; or that the
+disease, in its progress through the human frame, begets a poison, _sui
+generis_, which may be conveyed from one person to produce the disorder
+in another.
+
+The contagious or infectious fever which proceeds from distempered human
+exhalations, is a distinct malady. The yellow fever has a different
+origin—is different in its symptoms, and requires a different mode of
+treatment. They both have their degrees, and the mild typhus, and typhus
+gravior of England are not more alike than the continued and the
+remittent fever of the West Indies. Perhaps the mild, and the confluent
+small-pox are more unlike: yet no one denies that either is small-pox;
+or doubts that both are derived from the same cause—the same specific
+virus.
+
+If the medical attendants, and the (white) orderlies, who have been
+employed in the hospitals, have suffered from the fever; still, they
+have only suffered in common with the officers and soldiers, who have
+not been quartered near the hospitals; and, as their proportion of duty
+and fatigue has been unusually great, it were not to be expected that
+they could escape better than their comrades.
+
+The following fact seems to militate strongly against the doctrine of
+the yellow fever being, originally, a contagious, or becoming, in the
+course of its progress, an infectious malady, viz. that, of the
+multitudes of black men and women, whom I have had occasion to see
+employed constantly in the hospitals, and who have executed all the
+menial duties about the sick, the dying, and the dead, I never knew even
+a _single instance_ of either male or female taking the disease. Perhaps
+no person will contend that this would have happened if the hospitals
+had been equally crowded with patients in small-pox, measles, scarlet
+fever, the jail fever, or any complaint decidedly infectious[16].
+
+The yellow fever prevails most commonly, and most extensively, at the
+decline of the wet season of the year, when the rains and the sun
+irregularly alternate, and cause unsettled weather: this is also the
+period when the bilious remittent, and the ague appear among the creoles
+and negroes. In the midst, or at the very height of the wet season, and
+during the finer dry season, the fever, in all its forms, is less
+prevalent: likewise in the dry and elevated parts of the country, which
+are open to the breeze, it is out of all proportion less frequent than
+in low damp situations in the valleys, and about the openings of the
+rivers. In North America it is principally, and almost exclusively a
+disease of the low and crowded towns, seated upon the borders of the
+rivers, and the bays of the sea; and is scarcely known in the inland and
+more lofty parts of the country.
+
+The great favoring circumstances, therefore, appear to be a high degree
+of temperature, and a moist state of the atmosphere; to which may be
+added, perhaps, the ill-chosen site of the towns: but, from the
+particular season in which it spreads its ravages, and from all the
+concomitances, it is probable that some miasma, or unwholesome
+exhalation, may be regarded as the true _pabulum_ of the disease.
+
+At the middle period of the wet season the ditches and canals are full,
+and the brooks and rivulets fluent, so that the noxious exhalations are
+neither readily formed, nor easily taken up into the atmosphere: in the
+dry season, these deadly vapours are either chased away by the breeze,
+or rendered inert by the intense rays of the sun: but, during the
+intermediate period, at the decline of the wet season, every
+circumstance tends to favor their production, and to promote their
+diffusion and suspension in the surrounding air.
+
+The fever is most readily generated in new colonies, where the land is
+only partially cleared of its wood, badly cultivated, and the
+half-drained soil left to exhale its noxious vapours into the
+atmosphere. In the older colonies, where the forests have been long cut
+down, the territory submitted to the labours of the planter, and its
+surface more opened to the breeze, it is found to be less prevalent.
+Examples of this are seen in the old islands of Barbadoes and Antigua,
+contrasted with those of Grenada and Trinidad. The former are well
+cleared, and universally tilled, and from locality as well as culture,
+freely exposed to the influence of the trade-wind: in these, the disease
+but seldom appears. The latter are not yet brought under general
+cultivation, but are partially covered with wood, and the atmosphere is
+damper, and less purified by the breeze: here, the fever frequently and
+fatally rages.
+
+In new settlements, where the land is neither well cleared, nor drained;
+and particularly in the vicinity of the towns or habitations, which are
+commonly placed at the lowest, and most insalubrious spots, for the
+convenience of commerce, the dirty streams from the higher lands, and
+often the filth of rivers, or of bays and inlets of the ocean, together
+with decayed leaves, plants, and roots, and, in short, the whole
+_exuviæ_ of the vegetable world collect, remain, and grow putrid; in
+such situations also, the very weeds, and coarser plants, become rank
+and exuberant, and, growing up only to decay, add to the fermenting
+mass, which, by holding the impure waters stagnant, accumulates and
+creates a noxious swamp: thus, is generated the hideous Python, who,
+though often subdued by the sun’s rays, again lifts up his deadly front,
+and can only be completely vanquished by the steady and persevering
+industry of man.
+
+When the effect of climate and situation shall be fully understood, and
+duly estimated, the yellow fever may be no longer the scourge of our
+merchants, our planters, and our armies: yet, after the long and fatal
+experience the world has had, it is equally lamentable and surprising
+that men should blindly continue in error, with respect to the spots
+chosen for their towns and dwellings. Contrary to their better
+knowledge, they prefer the convenience of commerce to the more important
+advantages of health; and fix their habitations, as it were expressly,
+upon the most unhealthy points of the globe. In every nation, and almost
+every colony, striking examples might be selected of the strange folly
+and neglect with which a circumstance of such serious magnitude is
+regarded. Armies, perishing with fever, or dysentery, have been snatched
+from threatened destruction, by change of station; and countries, almost
+meriting the reproachful term pestilential, have been rendered
+salubrious by attentions to the soil: still, on the score of health,
+much remains to be done, by mankind fixing their residence where the
+atmosphere is least exposed to noxious exhalations. But, alas! commerce,
+and her seductive attendants, riches, dissipation, and luxury, deaden
+the loud calls of Hygeia, with her more virtuous train, ease,
+tranquillity, and happiness; hence it is to be feared that while man
+remains ambitious, and wealth is made the public road to honors and
+distinctions in society, health will continue to be only a secondary
+object of his consideration. It is in the province of the physician to
+expose this fatal error—to philosophy it belongs to remove it.
+
+The fever of these regions seems, in many respects, to be governed by
+the same circumstances as the endemic fever of Kent and Lincolnshire, in
+England. When it attacks the natives of the country, it even assumes the
+same type and symptoms: and I much suspect that if it could happen that
+the temperature of these counties should continue as high as from 80° to
+90° during the summer, and heavy rains should fall in July, the _yellow
+fever_ would prevail in the months of August and September: but, while
+the general heat of the summer shall continue below 70°, there can be no
+fear of yellow fever being generated in England; and still less of its
+being imported: for this is just as improbable as that the Kentish fever
+should be carried off in a Scots trading vessel, and spread among the
+inhabitants of Edinburgh, whose rocks, and streams, and healthy
+mountains preclude its visitation.
+
+In order to exhibit, in a more striking point of view, the similarity,
+or I might say the identity of the intermittent, the remittent, and the
+yellow fever of the West Indies, and to show that they are only
+different degrees of the same disease, I may briefly enumerate the more
+prominent points in which the resemblance is observed.
+
+1. They run indiscriminately into each other—a quotidian, or a
+remittent, sometimes becoming a malignant yellow fever; and a yellow
+fever sometimes degenerating into a remittent, or an intermittent.
+
+2. They are all connected with a derangement of the biliary system; and
+a common sequel of each, is a chronic affection of the liver.
+
+3. They all prevail, most extensively, at the same period of the year;
+viz. the decline of the wet season.
+
+4. A bilious vomiting is common to them all.
+
+5. They are all, occasionally, attended with a yellowness of the skin,
+and the eyes.
+
+6. In their relapses, and frequently in their first attack, they all
+bear a close alliance with the lunar periods.
+
+7. The intermittent, the remittent, or the continued type; or, in other
+words, the milder, the intermediate, or the more malignant form is
+assumed, according to the state of vigour, the period of residence in
+the climate, and other circumstances of the subject attacked.
+
+8. They all, occasionally, affect the same person various times.
+
+With respect to the alleged novelty,—the recent production or
+importation of the yellow fever, it appears to be an error, which may be
+explained away, by the fact mentioned above; viz. that during a period
+of peace and tranquillity it is less frequent, and passes under the
+milder name of seasoning fever; but from recurring in a time of war, it
+creates new alarm, and consequently issues forth with a new appellation.
+Its existence is, no doubt, coeval with the discovery of the colonies;
+for it is mentioned by some of the oldest writers upon the subject of
+the West Indies, and is pointedly noticed by Père Labat, an author who
+himself experienced an attack of it in the year 1694. Were it fit to
+offer a conjecture with regard to its duration, I might suggest that, in
+all probability, it will continue to prevail, so long as the hope of
+riches shall impel the inhabitants of cold climates to pay their
+devotions to Plutus, by a pilgrimage to tropical fields; unless these
+fields shall be so improved, by tillage, as to deprive the fever of the
+aliment necessary for its support.
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER LV.
+
+
+                                                      St. Domingo, 1797.
+
+I have to regret that in consequence of the greater part of the
+territory being occupied by the enemy, or, according to the more common
+term, the brigands, whose out-posts approach very near to the stations
+garrisoned by our troops, I have not the same opportunity of witnessing
+the scenery and state of culture of this island, as I had of Barbadoes,
+and Martinique: you will not, therefore, expect similar details.
+
+From the horrible events which have passed within the few last years,
+the general face of the country, as well as the towns, must have
+necessarily undergone a melancholy change:—destructive anarchy—the
+consuming flames of war and rebellion,—and a barbarous system of
+devastation have combined to lay waste this once rich and beautiful
+colony[17].
+
+In the great chain of West Indian islands, St. Domingo lies between
+Porto Rico and Cuba, thirty leagues east of Jamaica, in 19° north
+latitude, and 69° west longitude. It is nearly four hundred miles in
+length, and, at the broadest part, almost one hundred and forty in
+width. Its distance from England is about 3500 miles. It has the honor
+of having been chosen, by the great Columbus, as the territory upon
+which he first established a settlement, when he made his splendid
+discovery of the new world. From the natives of Cuba the inquiring
+navigator ascertained that the island was called Hayti; but on making
+the land, and touching at Cape St. Nicholas, Dec. 6th, 1492, he
+denominated it Espagnola, in honor of the kingdom, by which he was
+employed.
+
+Proceeding from St. Nicholas Mole, along the coast, Columbus there fixed
+upon a spot for erecting a fort, which he termed Navidad; but, this
+being destroyed, by the naked inhabitants of the country, he, on making
+his second visit in November 1493, commenced a settlement, at a more
+promising site, and erected a town, which he named Isabella, in
+compliment to the Queen of Castile, his patroness.
+
+The city of St. Domingo, from which the modern appellation of the island
+is derived, was founded in 1498, six years after the first landing, by
+Bartholomew Columbus, the Adelantado or Lieutenant-governor, who thought
+it expedient, during his brother’s absence in Europe, to remove the
+colony to a more commodious situation on the southern coast, where he
+caused a handsome city to be erected, naming it after the favorite saint
+of that time, St. Dominick.
+
+The French possessions are in the western division, the territory to the
+east being occupied by the Spaniards. The part held by the French was
+originally settled by a small detachment of those celebrated adventurers
+from the little island of Tortuga, who, for more than half a century, in
+daring and successful enterprise, committed such extensive depredations
+upon Spanish property and commerce, under the avenging denomination of
+Buccaneers.
+
+The bigoted and indolent Spaniards, persisting in the error committed by
+the early followers of Columbus, have expected to obtain riches,
+suddenly, from the _bowels_ of the earth: but the French, with better
+policy, patiently, though actively, bestowed their labour upon its
+_surface_, which rewarded their industry, not only with greater
+certainty, but with a more generous return.
+
+In an island, which, in point of size, almost vies with England, many
+varieties of soil and climate must, necessarily, be found; but the land,
+in general, is said to be fertile, and the French cultivators have known
+how to avail themselves of its fecundity.
+
+Prior to the destructive revolution, this noble colony was the pride and
+boast of Frenchmen; and justly so, for never were the gorgeous vestments
+of nature and art combined with a more happy effect. While the great
+parent of the island presented her stupendous mountains; her picturesque
+valleys and acclivities; her lakes and rivers; her rude forests and wild
+savannas; and her fine landscapes adorned with luxuriant groves of
+perennial verdure—the hand of industry embellished the whole with
+unprecedented richness and variety: the plains were loaded with sugar,
+rows of limes and citrons forming the fences of the canes; the sides of
+the hills were clothed with coffee; canals, and other well-constructed
+aqueducts brought bounteous streams to the estates; excellent roads led
+to the towns and dwellings; plantations of provisions, of cotton, and of
+indigo; elegant houses, and substantial sugar-works; orange groves, and
+orchards of other delicious fruits; neatly enclosed gardens, ornamental
+hedges, and improved grounds appeared on every quarter to grace the
+magnificent scenery. Thus, gifted by nature and enriched by culture, St.
+Domingo, at the commencement of the French revolution, stood unrivalled
+among the islands of the Atlantic, and was considered as the garden of
+the western world.
+
+At this high period of its prosperity every thing that could be required
+for the comfort or convenience of the inhabitants—every thing for use or
+health, for profit or pleasure, seemed to be here assembled: labour was
+rewarded with bounteous returns; the exports of produce were abundant;
+the elevated lands afforded a salubrious climate; handsome carriages,
+and elegantly furnished dwellings, with cooling verandas, and marble
+baths, were luxuries commanded by the planters; while their tables were
+supplied with choice viands, and the finest wines and fruits, and,
+surrounded with riches and tranquillity, they lived in the highest
+enjoyment of sumptuous gratification.
+
+The accounts which we hear related by the people of the colony
+respecting the luxuriant crops, the delicious productions of the
+orchards and gardens, and the exquisite improvements which embellished
+the fine plains of Cape Français and the Cul de Sac, and the delightful
+borders of the river Artibonite, might lead to a belief that these spots
+were unrivalled on any part of the globe.
+
+The superior state to which this interesting colony was advanced,
+proceeded, in a great measure, from the fertility of the soil, and the
+laudable industry bestowed upon its culture: but much was to be
+attributed, likewise, to the favorable circumstance of the planters and
+other inhabitants making it their settled residence—their chosen and
+only home. They did not, like the majority of the British colonists,
+devote their labour, exclusively with a view of obtaining a competency
+to enable them to return and live in an easy and independent condition
+among their friends in Europe; but they cultivated their estates, both
+for use and comfort, looking no less to the convenience and decoration
+of their place of abode, than to the profitable returns, which were to
+constitute the substantial reward of their toil.
+
+The plain of the Cape is situated in the northern division, not distant
+from the city whence it derives its name. It is a level territory,
+nearly fifty miles in length, and twelve in width, possessing superior
+fertility of soil. Throughout its whole extent it was covered with rich
+plantations of sugar, divided by rows of fragrant limes and citrons—the
+fields and dwellings receiving all the advantages of ornamental and
+productive improvement consequent upon being in the vicinity of the
+largest town of the colony.
+
+The plain of the Cul de Sac is in the western division, a little to the
+east of Port au Prince. It is nine miles wide, and extends between
+thirty and forty miles in length. This vast field was, likewise, spread
+with luxuriant crops of sugar, and adorned with the handsome dwellings,
+and other buildings of opulent planters; its bordering hills being
+richly clad with coffee, and its prolific estates having not only the
+benefit usually derived from being in the neighbourhood of a large and
+populous town; but also the peculiar advantage of being watered, in very
+dry weather, by means of aqueducts constructed, at great toil and
+expense, for that purpose. The produce obtained from these fertile and
+highly cultivated lands was immense, and the amount of profit, in
+proportion to the labour and expenditure bestowed, was unusually
+abundant.
+
+The extensive trade, with the quantity of shipping, and number of
+sailors employed in it, rendered this colony of great importance to the
+parent-country;—and the attention given to its interests proved the
+government to be duly sensible of its value. Even the distribution of
+the streams was deemed a subject of sufficient magnitude to require the
+establishment of an express committee, which was appointed to regulate
+the concerns of the reservoirs and aqueducts formed in different parts
+of the territory for the purpose of supplying water to these generous
+and magnificent possessions.
+
+The French part of the island was divided into three great districts—the
+northern, the western, and the southern. The western was the most
+populous, and contained the greatest number of sugar estates. Port au
+Prince is the principal town of this province. In time of peace it was
+the residence of the governor, and regarded as the capital of the
+colony. It contained nearly six hundred houses, and fifteen thousand
+inhabitants.
+
+Cape François is in the northern division. This was the largest and
+handsomest town in the settlement; having more than eight hundred
+well-built houses, of brick or stone, and a population amounting to
+twenty thousand individuals, of whom about three-fifths were slaves—more
+than one-fifth free people of colour; and the rest whites. This place
+being situated more conveniently for an expeditious communication by
+sea, the governor was required to remove thither in time of war, when it
+consequently became the capital, not of the northern division only, but
+of the whole colony.
+
+The southern division was not so populous as either of the others; nor
+did it equal them in its returns of produce. Les Cayes is the principal
+town of this district.
+
+Cape St. Nicholas stands at the western point of the northern division.
+This town consists of about two hundred and fifty houses, built of wood,
+according to the common manner of the West Indies, and covered with
+shingles.
+
+The total population of the three districts was calculated at more than
+half a million, of whom above thirty thousand were whites, nearly
+twenty-five thousand free people of colour, and the remainder
+slaves[18].
+
+But, alas! after exhibiting so much of natural beauty, and improved
+scenery, and being brought into such an enviable state of culture—after
+rewarding the industry of its inhabitants with such a high degree of
+opulence and general convenience, and enriching the parent-country with
+its bounteous productions and extensive commerce—after giving birth to
+splendid cities, multiplying its population, and raising itself to the
+first rank among colonies, what a sudden and melancholy reverse has
+befallen this once magnificent, but now most wretched and disastrous
+settlement! All its distinguished advantages have been sacrificed to the
+hypothetical doctrines of the French school of modern philosophy; and,
+by one fatal error, this happy land has been exposed to the horrible
+ravages of a cruel and blood-stained revolution.
+
+Not aware that, in order to be benefited by their wild theoretical
+improvements, mankind would require to be formed anew, the self-created
+lawgivers of France, despising all the advantages of experience, and
+disregarding the actual condition of the human race, overturned, at a
+word, the majestic fabric of society! Under the pretence of a
+high-sounding, but hollow humanity the indigent, the idle, and the
+vicious have been set loose to ravage and commit every species of
+injustice upon the opulent and industrious.
+
+Unappalled by the mischievous effect which their frantic innovations had
+produced, among a civilized people at home, the disorganizing system has
+been extended to a barbarous population, accustomed only to savage life;
+and the result has been precisely such as every person possessing the
+least knowledge of the West Indies must have predicted. The fatal decree
+of May 15, 1791, produced one wide and dreadful scene of devastation. It
+was the signal for revolt and massacre. The whites, and the people of
+colour, were declared by the National Assembly to be equal, and, too
+soon, raging flames, and the destructive sword verified the levelling
+manifesto! Ruin instantly spread around, and all was anarchy and
+carnage. In a few dismal hours of the morning of August 23d, of the same
+year (1791), the rich plain of the Cape was drenched with the blood of
+its inhabitants, and all its fine buildings, and luxuriant plantations
+were reduced to ashes. Restraint being removed, jealousy, suspicion,
+revenge, and all the worst passions of uncivilized man were left to rage
+in lawless sway. The most horrible cruelties which savage nature could
+invent were practised upon the whites—men, women, and children—the aged,
+and the tender infant, all were slaughtered with one undistinguishing
+barbarity; and a scene of human woe was introduced such as no former age
+had witnessed. Even death became a boon, for, too frequently, lingering
+torture, mockery, and violation, were made to aggravate and prolong the
+departing moments! With the same inhuman spirit, likewise, were the most
+shocking enormities committed upon the dead bodies of those who fell.
+
+The revolt began at one of the estates in the plain of Cape François, a
+few miles from the city; but it was soon discovered that the slaves of
+the other plantations were united in a concerted plot to massacre all
+the whites, and set fire to the buildings, and the standing crops of
+sugar.
+
+The few persons who had the good fortune to save themselves fled to the
+Cape, and, by announcing what was passing in the plain, spread terror
+and consternation through the town. Great numbers of the inhabitants,
+particularly of the women and children, immediately thronged on board
+the vessels in the harbour for safety; while the major part of the
+citizens flew to arms, and joined the troops in defence of the place;
+which it was every moment expected would be attacked from without, or
+destroyed by the rising of the blacks within its walls. The city was
+thus saved for a time, but it has since, like the bounteous plain which
+graced its environs, fallen a victim to the flames of an all-devouring
+and merciless rebellion.
+
+Your imagination will figure to you more correctly than it can be
+conveyed by the pen, the splendid but horrible spectacle, which must
+have presented itself to the inhabitants of the Cape, when the morning
+dawn opened to their view the extended plain, with its numerous mansions
+and sugar-works, and prolific fields of canes, all raging in a wide sea
+of conflagration.
+
+War, pestilence, and the blazing torch spread their ravages to the other
+provinces, when the rich improvements, which bounteous industry had
+given to this favored colony were destroyed, and all was converted into
+one vast field of desolation and carnage.
+
+The cruelties and atrocities which were committed cannot be stated in
+terms sufficiently strong to convey an adequate idea of their enormity;
+they form a picture of unexampled horror. It was calculated that within
+a few weeks, after the rising of the negroes in the plain of the Cape,
+two thousand white persons were massacred, more than one thousand
+plantations destroyed, and twelve hundred families reduced from opulence
+to absolute misery and want.
+
+Civil war, waged with its utmost fury, and accompanied with the
+extremest violence of malignant factions, has since prevailed in the
+different parts of the settlement—the conflict being aggravated by the
+most rancorous feelings of hatred and revenge; and each party aiming at
+the total destruction of the other.
+
+In addition to the multitudes of whites and of all the various shades of
+colour, who have been murdered or executed—who have fallen in battle, or
+been cut off by fatigue or the common disease of the country, a direful
+pestilence which broke out among the crowded bodies of negroes, who were
+assembled in revolt, carried off thousands and tens of thousands of
+their numbers.
+
+By all these causes, together with an extensive emigration, the
+population is supposed to be diminished to less than half what it was
+before the revolution, while this princely settlement has been reduced
+to a wilderness, fit only to be inhabited by savages.
+
+What benefit is likely to result from our invasion of a colony so
+circumstanced it is beyond my ability to conjecture. All the troops
+which England could spare, would not be sufficient to vanquish those who
+are in arms, and to subjugate the different hordes who have revolted. If
+it were possible to conquer the numerous bodies, against whom we have to
+contend, still the settlement would require to be new-peopled, before it
+could be again made subservient to the beneficial purposes of
+cultivation and commerce; for it is not to be expected that men, who
+have acquired a sufficient knowledge of their power to feel that they
+are the stronger party, and have lived, during several years, in the
+most licentious, and profligate freedom, can be brought to surrender
+their liberty, however acquired, patiently expose their backs to the
+lash, and again endure all the hardships and degradation of slavery.
+
+It is probable that from the earliest period of the revolt, in the plain
+of Cape François, in the year 1791, proposals were made, by the
+emigrants, to the Lieutenant-governor at Jamaica, and, through him, to
+the ministers of the British government, to induce them to send forces
+to take possession of the colony in the name of the King of England. But
+the war with France had not then commenced, and their overtures could
+not be accepted, without violating the neutrality which it was desirable
+that England should maintain (if it should be possible) towards her
+turbulent and factious neighbour. After the horrible and exterminating
+massacre of the whites, at the Cape, in 1793, and the burning of that
+fine city, the circumstances were different: Louis XVI. having been
+dragged to the guillotine, and the French Republic having declared war
+against England.
+
+The proceedings which were now adopted implied that ministers had been
+deluded into the persuasion that the French part of the island might be
+subjugated, and annexed as an useful possession to the British empire.
+Accordingly Monsieur de Charmilly, who possessed a property in the
+district of Grand Anse, was sent out from England, with instructions for
+Sir Adam Williamson to detach troops from Jamaica to take possession of
+such posts in St. Domingo, as the colonists might be willing to
+surrender to the English.
+
+The first division, placed under the command of Lieut.-colonel
+Whitelocke, left Port-Royal in September 1793, and sailed for Jeremie, a
+small town on the south-western point of the island, which place
+surrendered upon terms previously arranged between the commissioners and
+Sir Adam Williamson.
+
+Soon afterwards Cape St. Nicholas accepted the same conditions, and a
+small division of the troops from Jeremie was sent to that garrison; a
+second limited detachment proceeding thither likewise from Jamaica.
+
+Before the expiration of the year 1793, Jean Rabel, Arcahaye, St. Marc,
+Leogane, and several other places yielded upon similar terms; and, in
+consequence of these posts being so willingly given up to British
+protection, an eager, but treacherous hope was imbibed that the whole
+colony would submit without opposition.
+
+But the direful disease of the country had already commenced its
+ravages, and Sir Adam Williamson found himself in the distressful
+predicament of being compelled to reduce the garrison of Jamaica to a
+very small number, in order to detach a third division of troops for the
+purpose of aiding their sinking comrades, in holding possession of the
+places which had voluntarily submitted to be garrisoned by the English.
+
+Discouraging circumstances soon began to cloud the prospect of a
+successful issue: an offensive operation was undertaken against Tiburon,
+a strong position near the S. W. point of the island, and failed in
+consequence of the colonists not being able to raise the force, which
+they had promised to bring in support of the attack. No troops had yet
+arrived from England—nor could any more be spared from Jamaica; and, the
+yellow fever, spreading with fearful malignity, was rapidly destroying
+those already in the colony.
+
+The year 1793 had not closed before it became manifest that the British
+force was insufficient to give security even to the places which had
+surrendered; and, seeing the numbers so speedily diminish, the zeal and
+confidence of the inhabitants declined: those who had been neutral
+became hostile; and many who were friendly preserved only a lukewarm
+attachment.
+
+The proceedings of 1794 were chequered with various marks of good and
+bad fortune. A powerful reinforcement was expected under General Whyte;
+and considerable bodies of colonial troops were forming under the active
+and zealous Baron Montalembert, which, from their knowledge of the
+country, and their power of resisting the destructive influence of the
+climate, it was hoped would be extensively useful. But, without waiting
+for these additional means, the season being favorable for military
+operations, the few troops which remained effective, were employed at
+the beginning of the year, in various enterprises; in all of which both
+the officers and men conducted themselves with their accustomed bravery.
+The post of Tiburon was again attacked, and taken; as was, likewise, the
+fortress of l’Acul, near Leogane; but against a post called Bompard, on
+the northern coast, the result was less fortunate. The soldiers acted
+with the most determined spirit and good conduct; but were obliged to
+retire from the attack, in consequence of being opposed by superior
+numbers.
+
+Notwithstanding these energetic measures, a knowledge of the sickly
+state, and reduced numbers of the troops could not be concealed from the
+enemy, who was, accordingly, emboldened to assume an offensive attitude;
+and, in the month of April, Rigaud, the mulatto commander, proceeded
+from Les Cayes, with a body of two thousand brigands, to attack the post
+of Tiburon; but it was defended with the utmost gallantry, and the
+besiegers were repulsed with uncommon slaughter. Fort l’Acul was also
+defended with equal bravery, against a very determined and formidable
+attack; but a few more such victories would have led to entire defeat,
+since the weakened ranks of our little army must have been utterly
+exhausted. In addition to these offensive operations, on the part of the
+brigands, Jean Rabel, one of the posts, which, only a short time before,
+had voluntarily sought the protection of the British, was lost by the
+treachery of our supposed allies; who rose against their commanders, and
+gave up the place to the enemy.
+
+Such was the unpromising state of our affairs in the settlement, after
+the lapse of only half a year from the first landing of the British
+troops at Jeremie; and the fatal experience, which has since been
+purchased at such a prodigious waste of treasure, and of the best blood
+of our country, proves that it would have been wise to have withdrawn
+the surviving troops at this period, and abandoned every attempt at
+conquest in this baneful and deep-stained colony. But the government was
+now pledged to the disastrous measure; many of the colonists were still
+sanguine; and it was, perhaps, consistent with the principle on which we
+had engaged in the contest, not to despair of ultimate success, without
+making a more powerful effort to obtain it; yet, it was manifest that
+whatever further advantage might be acquired, could only be gained by
+decided force of arms; for the confidence of the inhabitants in our
+power of giving them protection and defence was too much shaken ever to
+be restored.
+
+In the month of May General Whyte arrived, with a considerable body of
+troops, to take the chief command: and the corps raised by the Baron de
+Montalembert being considerably augmented, as well as peculiarly
+effective, with regard to the climate, a brighter prospect seemed to
+open; whence, in the minds of those who were enthusiastic, the
+anticipations of success were, in some degree, confirmed.
+
+After the least possible delay, in preparing for the attack, the army
+moved against Port au Prince. Every thing that valour and good
+discipline could effect was achieved; and the town surrendered on the
+4th of June. This capture, highly honorable to the troops, was said to
+be abundantly profitable, likewise, to those who survived; in
+consequence of a crowd of shipping, deeply laden with colonial produce,
+being taken in the harbour.
+
+But, alas! even this splendid conquest, rich and glorious as it was,
+bore, within it, fatal marks of discouragement. It was not gained
+without a severe struggle, consequently not without a heavy loss; and
+the enemy, although compelled to abandon the town, retired only to the
+hills, at a short distance from it, where he established a chain of
+posts, and, holding communication with Les Cayes the capital of the
+southern division, placed himself in a strong position; and caused the
+forces in Port au Prince to pursue a system of daily labour and nightly
+watching, which proved more destructive to them than the sword. The
+fever raged with such dreadful mortality, that, by the time the
+defensive lines were finished, which it was necessary to construct for
+the security of the garrison, scarcely a sufficient number of troops
+remained to mount the different guards: and it was sadly afflicting to
+find that the greater proportion of these brave men, instead of being
+led to fresh victories, shortly perished by disease.
+
+General Whyte seeing no hope of effecting any new enterprise, or of
+making a further progress towards the general conquest of the colony,
+unless he could obtain the aid of great additional reinforcements,
+embarked for England, in September 1794, leaving the command to General
+Horneck, who was compelled to act upon the defensive, having the
+difficult task of maintaining with a feeble and inadequate force, the
+posts which had surrendered to the British.
+
+The weakened state of the army now disclosed itself, in every quarter.
+Those of the colonists who were in declared opposition acquired
+confidence; those who were wavering and undecided became hostile; many,
+who had been friendly, grew timid and desponding—some proved treacherous
+and deceitful; and only a small number remained faithful to the cause of
+the English, whose assistance they had so earnestly invoked.
+
+Such a situation was calculated to invite attacks from without, and to
+encourage plots and conspiracies among our doubtful friends, within the
+garrisons. Accordingly some of the places again fell into the possession
+of the enemy! Our allies at St. Marc revolted, and gave up the town to
+the republicans; and Rigaud the mulatto chief, advancing with augmented
+means, retook Tiburon and Leogane, and was even daring enough to conduct
+an enterprise against Fort Bizotton in the immediate vicinity of the
+capital.
+
+The year 1795 commenced with very unfavorable auspices. Not only had the
+troops to struggle against the dreadful ravages of a malignant disease,
+and to resist superior numbers, improved in discipline, and encouraged
+to vigorous hostility; but their situation was rendered still more
+distressing and perilous, in consequence of a spirit of treachery and
+disaffection prevailing among those, with whom, and on whose behalf they
+were acting.
+
+It was scarcely to be expected, indeed, that the motley and
+heterogeneous assemblage which had been brought together should long
+continue to concert their measures in harmony and faithful combination:
+co-operating with the British troops were bodies of French colonists, of
+mulattoes, and of negroes, besides volunteer inhabitants of the towns
+and parishes, and a corps of about three hundred reluctant Spaniards.
+
+Opposed to these, in the north, was an army, commanded by Toussaint,
+amounting to 17,000, or 18,000; consisting of republican troops, French
+colonists, and revolted negroes: in the south was a division nearly as
+powerful, under the command of Rigaud, formed of mulattoes, white
+colonists and impressed slaves. These two bodies, although both
+contending against the British, were in decided and inveterate
+hostility, and only restrained by the presence of a common enemy from
+waging a war of extermination against each other.
+
+A third, and still more numerous band of revolted and runaway slaves had
+retired to the woods, and the mountains, where, without engaging in the
+existing contest, they were lying in wait, equally disposed to involve
+either party in destruction.
+
+Besides these there were various irregular hordes of brigands—ruffians
+and desperadoes of the worst description, wandering about as marauders,
+assassins, or mid-day murderers in different parts of the country; or
+employing themselves in piratical excursions, from several points of the
+sea-coast, in which they captured numerous small vessels, both English
+and American; when they usually massacred the men; and carried off the
+women, if any chanced to be on board, for purposes which might render
+enviable the fate, even of those who were killed.
+
+In the early part of this year a dark conspiracy was discovered among
+the inhabitants of St. Marc’s, to confine the British commandant who had
+taken the town, and to give the place up, again, to the enemy; and, soon
+afterwards, a still deeper and more extensive plot was detected at Port
+au Prince, by which it was intended to seize the town and put all the
+English to death.
+
+Viewing the actual state of the troops and garrisons at this period, it
+was evident that every fair prospect of ultimate success had vanished.
+There seemed, no longer, to be any object in carrying on hostilities in
+this ill-fated country—the only effect of which would be to produce the
+untimely death of multitudes of brave men, who must perish in a
+fruitless contest.
+
+Sir Adam Williamson and the ministers had been deceived by the favorable
+and exaggerated accounts of interested individuals, respecting the
+dispositions of the French inhabitants remaining in the island. The
+greater number of the whites, who escaped at the time of the general
+massacre, had emigrated: of those who were still in the colony many were
+mere adventurers, some of whom had possessed themselves of the estates
+of their murdered, or emigrated countrymen: some were neutral, and were
+lying in wait to join the strongest party—and the few, who were of
+better principle, being over-zealous, deceived themselves and others.
+The majority had no view but that of regaining, or securing their own
+property and plantations.
+
+Notwithstanding all these discouraging circumstances the government,
+probably from being further deceived, by the representations of sanguine
+or designing colonists, after the Success of General Whyte at Port au
+Prince, still sent out additional reinforcements, and even indicated an
+intention of retaining and consolidating the conquests which had been
+made, by appointing Sir Adam Williamson Governor-general of St. Domingo.
+
+In this capacity His Excellency arrived at Port au Prince, and assumed
+the government in May 1795. In April a body of troops, about seventeen
+hundred in number, arrived from Ireland; and, in August, another
+reinforcement of nearly a thousand men came from Gibraltar; yet these
+were insufficient to make up the former losses. But, during this year,
+as if flattering expectations still prevailed, preparations were made at
+home for sending out two formidable expeditions, one to the Charibbee
+Islands, the other to St. Domingo; and, from the scale of these
+armaments being far more extensive, and the troops to be embarked, more
+numerous, than upon any former expedition to the West Indies, it was
+calculated, probably, that the force assembled might be competent to
+overpower all opposition, and to place not only St. Domingo but the
+whole of the French possessions to windward, under British dominion.
+
+Possibly, if these unprecedented armaments could have been conducted,
+unbroken, to their destination, the French Charibbee Islands might have
+been subdued in the first campaign; and, from the known valour of the
+troops, many new stations might have been conquered in St. Domingo; but,
+from the wide destruction caused by the ravages of a malignant disease,
+it was plain that all the forces which England could have spared, would
+not have been sufficient to have maintained possession of the various
+towns and posts, in the French part of the island, even if the whole of
+them could, at this time, have been captured.
+
+But the army, already in the colony, was not allowed to remain idle, in
+the anticipation of being joined by the powerful reinforcement preparing
+at home. Many brave enterprises were undertaken; the troops acted with a
+noble spirit; vigorous efforts were made to distress the enemy, and he
+was driven out of several strong posts, and a great extent of country;
+but the soldiers were not sufficient to garrison the places which were
+taken; and the white inhabitants, who were disaffected, plainly foresaw
+that the very efforts, which were made in the cause, must soon work its
+ruin: indeed, all that was effected served only to confirm the
+improbability of subduing the entire colony, or annexing it, in an
+useful condition, to the British possessions.
+
+Toward the close of the year great preparations were made for attacking
+the blacks, under the command of Dudonait, who occupied the hills above
+Port au Prince, and had contrived to cut off the supply of water from
+the town; but, from the numerous difficulties which occurred, the
+assault was not made before the 28th of February 1796, when the brigands
+were speedily defeated and dispersed by a spirited little army, under
+the command of General Bowyer.
+
+Owing to the repeated and fatal impediments occasioned by the
+tempestuous weather at the end of the year 1795, and beginning of 1796,
+the great body of troops, which had been assembled for service in the
+West Indies, did not reach the colonies as was expected.
+
+In March 1796, Sir Adam Williamson embarked for England, leaving the
+chief command to General Forbes. In April, a reinforcement amounting to
+between three and four thousand men arrived from Gibraltar. In June,
+General Whyte, after returning from the expedition against the colonies
+of Guiana, landed at St. Domingo, with four regiments, of the Cork
+division of the great armament; and not long afterwards the fleet from
+Cove came into harbour, with a further addition of five or six thousand
+men: but instead of being in a state fit for active service in such a
+climate, numbers of them were already enfeebled by sickness, and in a
+short time the greater part became inmates of the hospitals, from whence
+it was their sad lot to be soon carried to the grave. Still the honor of
+the British flag was ably maintained: many vigorous efforts were made to
+establish their possession, and the troops on all occasions displayed
+the greatest bravery—but it was impossible to struggle against the fatal
+devastations of disease. The fever now raged in every quarter of the
+colony with accumulated and direful malignity. At Port au Prince, the
+Mole, St. Marc, Mirebalais, and all the principal stations the weekly
+returns exhibited frightful lists of casualties:—to very few remained
+the strength required for military duty. From two hundred to six, or
+even eight hundred men of each regiment were destroyed by this
+relentless malady; and, of one regiment (the 96th), not an individual
+escaped.
+
+Notwithstanding the powerful reinforcements which arrived in the course
+of this year, it appeared that, by the month of September, scarcely
+three thousand effective men could be mustered, while the hospital
+register announced a mortality approaching to thrice that number.
+
+It was now discovered that the extreme waste of blood, and all our
+fruitless efforts in this unhappy island, were attended, likewise, with
+an alarming waste of property; and it was supposed that General Simcoe,
+who was sent out with the appointment of chief governor, had received
+instructions to inquire minutely into the state of expenditure, as well
+as all other points concerning the British prospects and interests in
+the colony.
+
+General Simcoe arrived in the month of March, of the present year
+(1797), and embarked again, for England, in July, when the command
+devolved on General Whyte, who, like his gallant predecessors, has the
+mortification of not being able to undertake any enterprise of magnitude
+against the enemy, in consequence of the defective number of troops.
+Viewing the many and great efforts which have been made, and the
+multitudes of brave men who have perished, it is grievous to contemplate
+the situation in which we now find ourselves—a situation not less
+singular, than it is vexatious and distressing: the army, by a dreadful
+mortality, is reduced to a skeleton, and we are left without the power
+of engaging in offensive operations, while the rebel negroes are seen at
+the very gates.
+
+                                                                  Adieu.
+
+  _Note_.—General Nesbit was appointed to succeed General Simcoe; but
+  having died on the passage, and General Whyte having returned to
+  England in April 1798, General Maitland was left in command.
+
+  The Government at length despairing of attaching the entire colony to
+  the British crown, sent out instructions, after the return of General
+  Simcoe, for drawing in the garrisons, and reducing the number of posts
+  occupied by the English troops, thus putting a stop to the dreadful
+  sacrifice of human life, and lessening the enormous expenditure, which
+  had been incurred in this hopeless, and too long continued attempt.
+
+  By a well-devised arrangement with Toussaint, General Maitland
+  withdrew the British forces on the 22d of April 1798, from Port au
+  Prince and St. Marc, and their dependencies, and retired to the Mole;
+  wishing, however, to possess the strong hold of the opposite point of
+  the bay, as affording a more complete protection to our trade, and to
+  the island of Jamaica, the General planned an expedition, and
+  proceeded from the Mole, in the month of June following, with a view
+  of retaking Tiburon; but, in consequence of adverse winds and raging
+  elements, he was unable to land his troops, and compelled to abandon
+  the enterprise.
+
+  Emboldened by this failure, and by the reduced state of our army, the
+  enemy, soon afterwards, made an attack upon the Mole, but they were
+  driven back, with very considerable loss. In a short time they
+  returned with a more formidable force; and were again repulsed with
+  great slaughter. Still, it was evident that the Mole was now insecure,
+  and, as there was no longer any hope of conquest, the General
+  prudently directed his thoughts to the preservation of the brave, but
+  feeble remains of his army.
+
+  By a judicious negotiation with Toussaint it was agreed that the
+  British should make an undisturbed evacuation of all the posts still
+  in their possession; and, after a sad waste of blood and treasure, the
+  island was wisely abandoned in October 1798; the troops being
+  withdrawn, from Jeremie and the Mole, to Jamaica.
+
+  So ended this lamentable enterprise, undertaken upon the deceitful
+  assurances of a few adventurers, who, by representing the colonists as
+  ready and desirous to surrender the settlement to British possession,
+  led the ministers and Sir Adam Williamson to engage in the conquest
+  with means infinitely inadequate. After five years of bloody and
+  afflicting warfare, and the sacrifice of perhaps twenty thousand brave
+  Englishmen, not one thousand veterans remained to experience the
+  humiliation of quitting the island.
+
+
+
+
+                               APPENDIX.
+
+
+The British parliament having enacted a law, to the immortal honor of
+this country, for the abolition of the importation of slaves into our
+settlements in the West Indies, it remains to be ascertained how this
+great work of humanity can be completed, by extending it to the
+_emancipation_ of the slaves already in the colonies.
+
+As a step towards the emancipation, the _abolition_ is of the highest
+importance; but if the parliament, having passed a decree, shall content
+itself without proceeding to that great ultimate object—the
+emancipation, England will have only the unsatisfactory consolation of
+exhibiting to the world an honorable and ineffectual example; while she
+leaves other nations to make a profit of her humanity: for, so long as
+slavery shall be permitted to exist in our colonies, and the African
+trade be continued by other countries, it may be expected that slaves
+will not cease to be introduced into the English settlements. Nor can
+the importation be prevented by any prohibitory law or regulation of the
+British parliament, however wise in the enactment, or vigilant in the
+execution; since it will be the common interest of the colonists to
+encourage adventurers in this illicit traffic.
+
+It is manifest, therefore, that unless England proceed further, the
+abolition will be nugatory, or even worse; for it will not only be
+inadequate to its purpose, but it will be the means of throwing the
+trade into the hands of the merchants of other nations; who, in
+conducting it, may not be governed by the same humane regulations, which
+the traders of this country were compelled to observe.
+
+It cannot be supposed that any of the friends of the abolition will be
+adverse to the emancipation, although various opinions may be held,
+respecting the best mode of effecting it. Considering themselves as
+following the genuine dictates of humanity, some may contend for an
+immediate enlargement; while others, with sounder policy, will plead for
+a more cautious and gradual liberation.
+
+An abrupt and unlimited enfranchisement might prove injurious to the
+slave, unjust to the master, and equally cruel to both. It would have
+the effect of depriving the one of his bread, without teaching the other
+to earn it. The dark ignorance which overclouds the minds of the slaves;
+the bitter remembrance of former toils and severities; their natural
+indolence; the debilitating languor produced by the climate; and the
+facility of obtaining provisions without labour, would all combine to
+prevent them from engaging in the settled habits of daily toil. Devoid
+of instruction, and without any knowledge of the benefits arising from
+commerce and the accumulation of property, they would not discreetly
+meet the change to freedom, and assume, at once, the tranquil character
+of sober and industrious peasantry. It is even doubtful, whether, if
+they were hastily liberated, they could ever be brought to employ
+themselves in a constant round of labour: to expect it, as the necessary
+result of merely granting them their freedom, would be idly romantic. In
+their present state of ignorance, both humanity and policy are opposed
+to a sudden emancipation; for, instead of their situation being thereby
+improved, it would be rendered lamentably worse.
+
+Having been governed by the whip, and held subservient to the will of
+others, they do not contemplate any intermediate stage, between the
+master and the slave. Accustomed to the degrading habits of bondage
+only, their minds are unprepared for freedom, and incapable of
+comprehending its high advantages. If their bonds were hastily broken,
+they would be all kings, and no subjects—all planters, and no labourers!
+In the gloomy imbecility of their uncultivated faculties they would be
+jealous of the whites, and suspicious of future chains: hence, to give
+them unbridled liberty would be to let loose an irritated race of
+beings, with a two-edged sword in their hands, which, in consequence of
+the many vices and infirmities arising from a life of slavery, they
+would either turn upon themselves, or wield to the destruction of those
+about them. They would be thrown into inveterate confusion; the
+cultivation of the colonies would languish; commerce would die away; and
+the mother-country preserving no control, all would be violence,
+outrage, and subversion, and they would persecute or destroy those who
+had governed them, until every European were exterminated from the
+settlements. Or, if they should not be roused to energy, by revengeful
+feelings and a distrust of their former rulers, they would sink into the
+torpid state of the uncivilized Indians, or of their darker brethren of
+the African forests, and relapse into a state of rude and savage nature.
+Their wants being few, and their food easily procured, their exertions
+would be only commensurate to their cravings: disdaining labour, they
+would repose under the soft shade of the plantain, equally regardless of
+the riches of commerce and the honors of industry. The yam, the
+plantain, and the pepper-pot, the banjar, the merry dance, and their
+beloved Wowski, would gratify all their wishes, and crown their highest
+ambition.
+
+However simple the question of emancipation may appear, to those who
+reason only from an abstract principle regarding humanity and the
+natural rights of man, it is a subject of no less intricacy than
+importance. Although urgent and imperative, still it needs much and
+serious consideration, and cannot be acted upon without the utmost
+caution. To judge of it properly, requires an extensive knowledge of the
+interests of the colonists, an intimate acquaintance with the character
+and disposition of the slaves, and much information with regard to the
+relative policy between this country and the settlements. By hasty or
+inconsiderate measures a serious wound might be given to the sacred
+principles of humanity and justice, and infinitely more mischief than
+advantage would be the result.
+
+It is possible that, by proceeding with great care and discretion, the
+loud calls of humanity may be obeyed, and the emancipation effected to
+the great benefit of the slaves, and without serious injury to their
+masters: but to force upon the blacks and their descendants, at all
+hazards, a freedom, which they know not how to value or to use, would be
+cruel and fatal.
+
+It should be held, always, in remembrance that, in a mental point of
+view, the slaves are but as children, having their untutored minds in a
+more abject state of imbecility, than the lowest of the poor in the
+meanest state of Europe. Much has been done, during many years past, to
+meliorate their condition; but, in order to make it consistent with the
+policy of the parent-country, the safety of the West India proprietors,
+or the benefit of the negro race themselves, to abolish slavery
+altogether, this beneficent and glorious achievement must be
+accomplished by a steady perseverance in the use of slow and gradual
+means.
+
+A general system of education and moral improvement should be
+established among the slaves; a due sense of their religious duties
+should be inculcated; and they should be taught to estimate the high
+value of freedom, and social intercourse: private punishments should be
+prohibited; all invidious distinctions between the different colours
+done away; and every man, of whatever hue, should be made subject to the
+same laws, and the same rules of government.
+
+The degrading ignorance, the sullen perverseness, and revengeful
+feelings of the slaves should be softened by liberal instruction; they
+should be gradually associated, and brought to a level with those who
+are better informed, and more conversant with the arts of industry; and
+they should be taught to understand the advantages which would arise
+from continuing the cultivation and commerce of the colonies. A general
+change in their minds and habits, must be either in progress, or
+effected, before it can be safe or useful to grant them so great a boon;
+or, rather, to restore to them so manifest a right.
+
+Perhaps the best preparatory step would be, to bring a considerable
+proportion of the _people of colour_, between the whites and the
+negroes, to England to be educated, together with such of the blacks
+themselves, as might display any peculiar marks of intellect; allowing
+them to return as free subjects, possessing all the privileges of
+citizens; and, in addition to these, annually to enfranchise a certain
+number of the best-disposed slaves, until the whole should be free;
+taking care, always to preserve a due proportion between the number
+educated, and the number emancipated, and to make their liberation a
+reward to superior merit.
+
+In this manner, the individuals of all shades, and all degrees, might be
+brought to mix together as people of the same state, subject to the same
+laws, following the same pursuits, and feeling the same interests and
+propensities. The coloured inhabitants would be made fellow-citizens
+with the whites, and they would aspire to be—Englishmen! Among them
+would be found merchants and planters, as well as tradesmen, mechanics,
+and labourers: all hurtful jealousies would be done away, and the
+Africans and their offspring having acquired a knowledge of the benefits
+to be derived from industry, and the accumulation of property, the
+cultivation of the colonies would be continued, and the commercial
+influence preserved to the mother-country.
+
+To attempt to enumerate the manifold advantages which would result from
+such a system of enfranchisement, would be to enter too much into
+detail. Among the most important of them would be that of preventing the
+sad waste of human life, and of treasure, which is at present incurred,
+by the necessity of sending out unacclimated Europeans to garrison the
+colonies, and to execute the offices of managers, clerks, book-keepers,
+and the like. These would not, as at present, be indispensably required.
+The danger of revolt and insurrection would no longer exist; and the
+people of colour being capable of performing all the duties of the
+plantation and the counting-house, they would soon become possessed of
+stores and estates; and the garrisons might be safely intrusted to them,
+as the best defenders of their own property.
+
+England having set a generous and splendid example, in being the first
+to forego the unhallowed profits of a cruel and impious traffic in human
+beings, might it not be an object worthy the magnanimity of the Prince
+Regent of this nation, to carry the august work of humanity to its
+consummation, by establishing an institution, for the emancipation of
+the slaves, and for their education and improvement after they became
+free?
+
+If _a school_ were endowed, somewhat upon the plan of Christ’s Hospital,
+or the Royal Military Asylum[20], and appropriated to the education of
+the creole children of colour, it would immortalize the name, and prove
+a lasting monument of the wisdom and benevolence of the Prince, who
+should have the happiness of being its founder. Such an institution
+might stamp the Regent’s government, which has been already
+distinguished by such auspicious events, with unparalleled glory. It
+would mark the period as an _era of humanity_, and His Royal Highness
+could not fail to experience the grateful reward of feeling, that his
+name would be uttered with prayers and blessings, not only by hundreds
+of thousands of fellow-beings now existing, but by millions yet unborn!
+
+
+
+
+                                 INDEX.
+
+
+                                   A.
+
+ Abbensets, Mynheer, hospitality of, i. 465, 531.
+
+ Abercromby, Sir Ralph, arrival of, at Barbadoes, i. 235.
+   His departure, i. 346.
+
+ Abolition, important, with a view to emancipation, ii. 525.
+   Nugatory, unless followed by emancipation, ii. 526.
+
+ Abstemiousness, author’s, on the voyage, i. 78.
+
+ Alligators, numerous at Berbische, i. 445.
+   Used as food by the negroes, i. 447.
+
+ Amsterdam, old town of, i. 473, 493.
+   New town of, i. 424.
+   A bush negro, execution of, i. 377.
+
+ Animal flower, description of the, i. 184.
+
+ Ants, construction of the nests of, ii. 149.
+   Used as food for chickens, ii. 150.
+
+ Ant-eater, description of the, ii. 146.
+
+ “Arcadia,” plantation, i. 349.
+
+ “Arends,” plantation, i. 482.
+
+ Army, allied, in St. Domingo, how constituted, ii. 514.
+   Of Toussaint, _ib._
+   Of Rigaud, _ib._
+
+ Assistant, medical, loss of, at Maiconny, ii. 94.
+
+ Atmosphere, its influence upon the human frame, i. 249, ii. 470.
+
+ Author, reflections of the, in Guiana, ii. 250.
+   His farewell from Guiana, ii. 287.
+   His case of yellow fever, ii. 96.
+   And comrades, separation of, at Spithead, i. 46.
+   Their detention at Barbadoes, i. 249.
+   Their friendly contention respecting fever, i. 250.
+   Their employment at Barbadoes, i. 251.
+   Their detention at Martinique, ii. 353.
+
+ Azores, passing the, indications of, i. 73.
+
+
+                                   B.
+
+ Ball, birth-day, at Martinique, ii. 321.
+
+ Barbadoes, general aspect of, i. 80.
+   Author’s landing at, i. 99.
+   General observations regarding, i. 275.
+   Its importance in the opinion of the natives, i. 277.
+   The Montpelier of the West Indies, i. 280.
+   The London of the West Indies, i. 346.
+   Its seasons, i. 284.
+   Its temperature, i. 209.
+   Its soil, i. 282.
+   Its plenteous supply of provisions, i. 258, 292.
+   Bridge-Town, the capital of, i. 280.
+   Its senate-house, i. 223.
+   Civility of the inhabitants of, to strangers, i. 171.
+   Clothing of the inhabitants of, i. 293.
+   Their languid pronunciation, i. 294.
+   Their mode of living, i. 287.
+   Breakfast, i. 288.
+   Dinner, i. 290.
+   State of the slaves at, i. 295.
+   Neglect of diseased and decrepit negroes at, _ib._
+   Endemic disease of, or Barbadoes leg, i. 303.
+   Its origin, i. 306.
+   Cottages of white inhabitants at, i. 309.
+   Cottagers, resemble their European ancestors, i. 310.
+   Author’s departure from, i. 320.
+
+ Barber and surgeon, Dutch association of, i. 475.
+
+ Bathing, use of, by the French, ii. 430.
+
+ Battle, effects of the preparation for, i. 331.
+
+ “Bay-house,” sumptuous entertainment at the, i. 181.
+
+ Berbische, capitulation of, to the British, i. 356.
+   Government-house at, i. 439.
+   Author’s voyage to, i. 395.
+
+ Bercheych, M. visit to, ii. 63, 146.
+   Peculiarities of, ii. 74.
+   Romantic dwelling of, ii. 67.
+   Visit of, at Fort St. Andrew, ii. 151.
+
+ Bird-nests, peculiar construction of, ii. 148.
+
+ Birth-day, His Majesty’s, celebration of, at Berbische, i. 441.
+
+ Blackader, Mr. his case of fever, ii. 110.
+
+ Blair, Mr. visit to the plantation of, i. 453, ii. 30.
+
+ Boat excursion, hazardous, to Mole St. Nicholas, ii. 392.
+
+ Boats, passage, pleasant, at Martinique, ii. 301.
+
+ “Bob,” Doctor, remarks of, ii. 59.
+
+ Boode, M. the successful industry of, ii. 277.
+
+ Breakfast, at Port au Prince, ii. 432.
+
+ Breeze, land, at Barbadoes, i. 81.
+
+ Brigands, daring attacks of, at sea, ii. 408, 445, 515.
+   Different bodies of, at St. Domingo, ii. 515.
+   Defeat of, by General Bowyer, ii. 519.
+
+ Bush, the forest so termed, i. 433.
+
+
+                                   C.
+
+ Cabbage-tree, description of the, i. 154.
+
+ Calm, distress occasioned by, at sea, ii. 387.
+
+ Campaign, military, reflections on a, i. 237.
+
+ Cannon, firing of, on ship-board, i. 37.
+   At Fort St. Andrew, i. 441.
+
+ Cap à Fou, view of, at sea, ii. 444.
+
+ Cape François, rich plain of, ii. 497.
+   Destroyed, ii. 502.
+   Town of, ii. 499.
+
+ —— St. Nicholas, town of, _ib._
+
+ Carlisle bay, enchanting view of, at sea, i. 81.
+   Its environs, i. _ib._
+   The general rendezvous, i. 64.
+   The Thames of the West Indies, i. 244.
+
+ Cassada, the use of, i. 383.
+   By the Indians, i. 504.
+
+ Cayes, les, town of, in St. Domingo, ii. 499.
+
+ Ceremony, complimentary, of cooling the person, i. 526.
+
+ Changuion, Princess, anecdotes concerning, ii. 245.
+
+ Charmilly, Monsieur de, mission of, to Jamaica, ii. 507.
+
+ Chasse-pilote, visit to the town of, ii. 312.
+
+ Chigoes, mode of extracting, i. 270.
+
+ Children, mode of carrying, in the West Indies, i. 215.
+   Deformed, seldom seen in the colonies, i. 216.
+
+ Christian, Admiral, arrival of, at Barbadoes, i. 346.
+
+ Christmas, a festive period in the West Indies, ii. 140.
+   The season of oranges, ii. 141.
+   Temperature, ii. 140.
+
+ Cleghorn, Doctor, arrival of, at Portsmouth, i. 27.
+
+ Climate, effect of, on European soldiers, ii. 177.
+   On a Dutch sailor, i. 267.
+   Brunonian explanation of the, i. 266.
+
+ Clouds, evening appearance of, at sea, i. 96.
+
+ Cockswain, singular address of a, ii. 216.
+
+ Codrington, or Barbadoes college, i. 191.
+
+ Coffee, a plantation of, i. 338.
+
+ Colleton estate, hospitality at the, i. 189.
+
+ Colonists, conduct of the, at St. Domingo, ii. 513.
+
+ Colony-paths, at Demarara, how formed, ii. 263.
+
+ Colour, importance of, in West Indian slavery, ii. 331.
+   People of, suggestion for educating the, ii. 531.
+   Women of, at Martinique, ii. 430.
+   At St. Domingo, ii. 406.
+   West Indian mode of providing for the, ii. 136.
+
+ “Commerce de Marseilles,” striking appearance of the, i. 54.
+
+ Complaisance, West Indian, specimen of, i. 537.
+
+ Contagion, the usual progress of, ii. 481.
+
+ Convalescents, inspection of, on board the Lion, ii. 402.
+
+ Convoy, Cork, arrival of the, i. 264.
+   From Spithead, delays of the, i. 232.
+   Return of the, i. 231.
+   Crowded, dangers of sailing in a, i. 63.
+   To Port au Prince, driven back by a storm, ii. 408.
+
+ Corn, scarcity of, in England, i. 233.
+
+ Cornwallis, Admiral, his noble retreat, i. 16.
+
+ Costume, Spanish, prevalence of, in Jamaica, ii. 337.
+
+ Cotton, mode of ginning, i. 477.
+
+ Council of government, Demarara, ii. 267.
+
+ Coup de soleil, a case of, at Berbische, i. 443.
+
+ Court of policy, how constituted, ii. 268.
+   Of justice, _ib._
+   Commissary, _ib._
+
+ Creek, Kamonuy-Woratilla-Mabeira, ii. 182, 183.
+
+ Creoles, less efficient than Europeans, ii. 172.
+   Why not subject to the yellow fever, ii. 475.
+
+ Croix des Bouquets, visit to the town of, ii. 437.
+
+ Cuba, view of, at sea, ii. 390.
+
+ Cul de Sac, description of the, ii. 498.
+   Ruinous state of the, ii. 437.
+
+ Cupid, power of, in the wild woods, i. 502.
+
+ Custom, foreign, of purloining provisions, ii. 163.
+
+
+                                   D.
+
+ “Daargradt,” plantation, i. 528.
+
+ Dancing, fondness of the French for, ii. 323, 426.
+   Excessive, of West Indian ladies, ii. 161.
+   Of slaves, i. 126.
+   At a wedding, ii. 325.
+
+ Dangers, slight regard of, by military men, ii. 144.
+
+ Davy, Lieutenant, hospitality and kindness of, i. 51.
+
+ Dead-lights, fixing the, at sea, i. 59.
+
+ Decree, French levelling, effects of the, ii. 437.
+
+ Delicacy, European female, injury of, i. 124, 344.
+
+ Demarara, capture of, from the Dutch, i. 328.
+   Robust inhabitants of, i. 337.
+   Coffee plantation, and orange grove at, i. 328.
+   Negro sale at, i. 340.
+   Hospitality at, i. 341.
+   Situation of, i. 357.
+   General observations relating to, ii. 258.
+   Prejudice against the climate of, unfounded, ii. 259.
+   Prolific soil of, ii. 260, 266.
+   Importance of, to the British, ii. 276.
+   Plantations of, how formed, ii. 262, 271.
+   Roads of, how formed, and kept in repair, ii. 263, 269.
+   Happy exemptions of, ii. 266.
+   Its seasons, ii. 267.
+   Its plan of government, _ib._
+   Wages of labour at, ii. 278.
+   Price of provisions, ii. 280.
+   Of colonial productions, _ib._
+   Of other articles of common use, ii. 281.
+
+ Destination, author’s probable change of, i. 8.
+
+ Diana frigate, author’s rescue on board the, i. 50.
+
+ Difficulties sometimes easily subdued, i. 459.
+
+ Dinner, at sea, description of a, i. 71.
+   A farmer’s, at Barbadoes, i. 202.
+   At Demarara, i. 381.
+   At Port au Prince, i. 431.
+
+ Diseases, surgical, fatality of, in Guiana, ii. 91, 284.
+
+ Distance, Dutch mode of computing, ii. 180, 226.
+   From Stabroek to “the falls,” _ib._
+
+ Doctors, colonial, consulted on yellow fever, ii. 57.
+
+ Dolphins, brilliant appearance of, i. 92.
+
+ Domingo, St. author ordered to, ii. 233.
+   Contemplations on the removal to, ii. 234.
+   Author’s voyage to, ii. 384.
+   His disappointments on arriving at, ii. 394.
+   General remarks relative to, ii. 492.
+   Discovery of, by Columbus, ii. 493.
+   Distance of, from England, _ib._
+   French division of, ii. 494.
+   The garden of the West Indies, ii. 496.
+   Sacrificed to an erroneous philosophy, ii. 501.
+   Effects of the revolt at, ii. 504.
+   Late population of, ii. 500.
+   Late exports from, _ib._
+   Importance of the waters of, ii. 498.
+   Hopeless invasion of, by the British, ii. 505, 516.
+   British ministers deceived regarding, ii. 516.
+   Disastrous state of the British army in, ii. 521.
+   Evacuation of, by General Maitland, ii. 522.
+   City of, when founded, ii. 493.
+
+ Dornford, Mr. perilous state of, ii. 318.
+   Decease of, ii. 349.
+
+ Dougan, Mr. rich plantation of, i. 350.
+   Kindness of, to his slaves, i. 351.
+   Captain, hospitality of, i. 383.
+
+ “Draxhall,” plantation, i. 195.
+
+ Drunkenness, Dutch military punishment for, ii. 22.
+
+ Dutch troops, brave conduct of, at Essequibo, ii. 116.
+
+
+                                   E.
+
+ Echo, pleasing, at Fort St. Andrew, i. 441.
+   Perilous, in the woods near Johanna, i. 481.
+
+ Economy, army, defects and abuses of, ii. 126.
+
+ Edmonstone, Mr. solitary abode of, ii. 185.
+
+ Edouard, Père, his treatment of fever, ii. 319.
+   His remarks on English practitioners, ii. 320.
+
+ Elcock, Mr. house and garden of, i. 203.
+
+ Eel, electrical, description of the, ii. 24.
+   Attempt of two sailors to remove it, ii. 25.
+
+ Emancipation of slaves, remarks concerning the, ii. 464.
+   Suggestion for effecting the, ii. 525.
+   Advantages of the, ii. 532.
+   An era of humanity, ii. 534.
+   Proposed institution for the, ii. 530, 533.
+   Probable reward of its founder, ii. 534.
+
+ Embarkation, author’s, at Port au Prince, ii. 440.
+
+ Empiricism, impolicy of encouraging, i. 214.
+
+ England, author’s delight on receiving letters from, ii. 126.
+   Returning to, pleasing anticipations of, ii. 117.
+
+ Englishmen, gloomy disposition of, i. 9.
+
+ “Essendam,” plantation, i. 463.
+
+ Essequibo, attack of, by the Spaniards, ii. 165.
+
+ Excursion, marooning, at Barbadoes, i. 172.
+   Up the river Berbische, i. 460.
+   General remarks upon, i. 534.
+   Overland, to “Arends,” i. 480.
+   Grotesque, from “Arends” to “Johanna,” i. 522.
+   Marooning, up the river Demarara, ii. 178.
+   General remarks concerning the, ii. 224, 231.
+   Memento of, left by the party, ii. 210.
+   Into the woods for plants, ii. 187.
+   Pedestrian, through the forest, ii. 192.
+   From the post-holder’s to “the falls,” ii. 208.
+
+ Exercise, in the West Indies, remarks upon, i. 122.
+
+ Expedition, West Indian, preparations for the, ii. 517.
+   Secret, from Barbadoes, i. 320.
+   Military, from Port au Prince, ii. 434.
+
+ Expeditions, by sea, uncertainty of, i. 208.
+   Suggestions for the arrangement of, i. 209.
+
+
+                                   F.
+
+ “Falls,” at Demarara, description of the, ii. 209.
+
+ Familiarity, French, remarks upon, ii. 406.
+
+ Females, French, contrasted with the English, ii. 522.
+
+ Festivities, birth-day, at Demarara, ii. 159
+
+ Fête, negro, at Berbische, i. 448.
+   De Dieu, ceremony of, at Martinique, ii. 338.
+
+ Fever, intermittent, a striking example of, ii. 143.
+   Mr. Beete’s case of, ii. 158.
+   Coincidence of, with the spring-tides, _ib._
+   Of Kent and Lincolnshire, remarks upon the, ii. 480.
+
+ ——, yellow, dreadful malignity of the, ii. 60.
+   Prophylactic means against, ii. 62.
+   Supposed connexion of, with the tides, ii. 60.
+   Persons most frequently seized with, ii. 80, 477.
+   Predisposing causes of, ii. 81.
+   Example of the insidious attack of, ii. 82.
+   Assumes various types, ii. 90, 468, 481.
+   Striking modification of, by season, ii. 132.
+   Attacks repeatedly the same person, ii. 170.
+   Negro attendants of the sick, not subject to, ii. 484.
+   Exemption of the West Indian negroes from, explained, ii. 475.
+   Animals not exempt from, ii. 138.
+   Doctor E.’s remarks concerning the, ii. 254.
+   General observations regarding the, ii. 467.
+   Diminished malignity of, at St. Domingo, ii. 414.
+   Opinions respecting the, at Jamaica, ii. 383.
+   At St. Domingo, ii. 416.
+   Fatality of, in St. Domingo, ii. 508.
+   Effect of, on a party of foreign artillery, ii. 417.
+   Striking example of, in the crew of the Bangalore, _ib._
+   Sequels of the, ii. 416.
+   Pleasing assemblage of convalescents from, ii. 85.
+   Not produced by contagion, ii. 483, 478.
+   In what season, and situation most prevalent, ii. 485.
+   Blacks in the United States not exempt from, ii. 480.
+   Supposed pabulum of, ii. 486.
+   Different degrees of, ii. 490.
+   Marks of identity of, _ib._
+   Origin, and probable duration of, ii. 491.
+   Case of, in a soldier’s wife, ii. 447.
+   In an American sailor, ii. 448.
+   Non-existence of, in England, ii. 498.
+
+ Fibre, animal, influence of climate upon the, ii. 471.
+
+ Fight, savage, between a negro, and a mulatto woman, ii. 125.
+
+ Fireflies in Guiana, i. 355.
+
+ Fiscal, duties of the, in Dutch Guiana, ii. 269.
+   Le vieux, at Berbische, anecdotes of, i. 472.
+
+ Fleet, Leeward Island, sailing of the, i. 36.
+   Splendid appearance of, at sea, i. 57.
+   State of, in a storm, i. 58.
+   Dispersion of, by a gale, i. 40, 61.
+   Return of, to harbour, i. 40.
+   Almost incredible delay of, i. 313.
+   Cork, vexatious return of the, i. 251.
+   Arrival of the, at Barbadoes, i. 264.
+   Sickly state of the, i. 252.
+   Merchant, arrival of a, at Barbadoes, i. 257.
+
+ Flying-fish, account of the, i. 92.
+   Small race of, an indication of the shore, i. 94.
+
+ Forbes, General, commander in chief in St. Domingo, ii. 519.
+
+ Forces, in Guiana, interesting situation of the, ii. 115.
+
+ Forest in Guiana, peculiar stillness of the, ii. 185.
+
+ Fort Royal, at Martinique, description of, ii. 300.
+
+ Fracas, between a mulatto woman and her daughter, ii. 356.
+
+ Frame, human, accommodation of the, to different climates, ii. 469.
+
+ Frenchmen, contrasted with Englishmen, i. 10.
+   Facility of, in yielding to events, _ib._
+   Passion of, for novelty and intrigue, _ib._
+   For gaming, ii. 424.
+   For dress and dancing, ii. 426.
+   Rude custom of, at the public table, ii. 431.
+
+ Friends, hope of rejoining, a support in danger, i. 66.
+
+ Frivolity, French, examples of, ii. 347.
+
+ Frogs, exposure of, for sale at Martinique, ii. 359.
+
+ Fruit, plenteous supply of, in Guiana, i. 339.
+   Plentiful and delicious, at Jamaica, ii. 380.
+
+ Funeral, military, suspension of the ceremony of, ii. 156.
+   Of a child of colour, at Martinique, ii. 312.
+   Of a white Catholic, ii. 313.
+
+
+                                   G.
+
+ Gammell, Colonel, able command of, i. 427.
+   Remarks of the soldiers respecting, _ib._
+   Lamented death of, ii. 119.
+
+ “Garden-Eden,” plantation, ii. 218.
+
+ General Cuyler, transport, imminent peril of the, i. 240.
+   Arrival of the, at Barbadoes, i. 238.
+   Tedious passage of the, i. 242.
+
+ George and Bridget, transport, arrival of, at Barbadoes, i. 259.
+   The loss of the, ii. 263.
+
+ “Golden Tent,” plantation, ii. 181.
+
+ Government, wise, prevalence of virtue, the best proof of a, i. 226.
+
+ Grapes, sea, at Barbadoes, i. 142.
+
+ Grenada, island of, dangerous state of the, i. 234.
+   Transport, author’s embarkation in the, i. 320.
+   Method of preventing sickness in the, i. 328.
+
+ Grove, cocoa-nut, view of, by moonlight, i. 211.
+
+ Guadaloupe, the Circassia of the West Indies, ii. 311, 316.
+
+ Guiana, coast of, expedition to the, i. 326.
+   Climate of, i. 337.
+   Remarks relating to the natural history of, ii. 274.
+   Domestic fowls, and animals of, _ib._
+   Annoyances common to, ii. 275.
+
+ Guinea-man, American, description of an, i. 101.
+   Liverpool, description of a, i. 107.
+   The Venus, success of, against a privateer, i. 245.
+
+
+                                   H.
+
+ Habit, influence of, ii. 469.
+
+ Hackleton’s-cliff, marooning party to, i. 172.
+   Fine view from, i. 188.
+
+ Hammocks, great convenience of, i. 495.
+
+ Harpoons, use of, at sea, i. 90.
+
+ Harrison’s cave, description of, i. 173.
+
+ Hayes, Sir John, active service of, at Southampton, i. 4.
+
+ Health, opposite effects of industry and indolence upon, ii. 260.
+
+ “Helvetia,” plantation, i. 526.
+
+ Heritage, Captain, illness and decease of, ii. 56.
+
+ “Hermitage,” plantation, ii. 182.
+
+ “Het Pleytanker,” plantation, i. 463.
+
+ Heynemann, M. visit to, i. 484.
+   Household of, _ib._
+   Indian collection of, i. 487.
+   Adventures of, _ib._
+   Generous hospitality of, i. 510.
+   Excellent qualities of, i. 513.
+
+ Hilloughby, Mount, view from, i. 156.
+
+ Hinde, Dr. visit to the plantation of, i. 135.
+
+ Hollander, grotesque appearance of one, on horseback, i. 523.
+
+ Horneck, General, distressing command of, at St. Domingo, ii. 513.
+
+ Horse, author’s, loss of the, ii. 232.
+
+ Horses and mules, use of, at Port au Prince, ii. 423.
+
+ Hospital, Haslar, establishment of, i. 18.
+   Importance of, to the nation, i. 20.
+   Military, at Barbadoes, i. 210, 252, 314.
+   At Demarara, i. 367.
+   At Berbische, i. 425.
+   At Martinique, ii. 303.
+   Temporary, arrival of, at Barbadoes, i. 209.
+
+ Hospitals, military, unlimited accommodation of, ii. 450.
+
+ Hospital return, Guiana, for one year, ii. 284.
+   Department, St. Domingo, alterations in the, ii. 415.
+   Objections against, _ib._
+
+ Hospital stores, arrival of, at Demarara, ii. 248.
+
+ House, Government, at Port au Prince, description of, ii. 429.
+
+ Hugues, Victor, noble conduct of the secretary of, i. 225.
+
+ Hurricane, violent, at Portsmouth, i. 24.
+
+
+                                   I.
+
+ Indians, South American, description of, i. 514.
+   Termed Bucks and Buckeen, i. 487.
+   Different tribes of, i. 513.
+   Their mode of procuring subsistence, i. 503.
+   Dwellings of, how situated, ii. 227.
+   How constructed, i. 505.
+   Parties of, seen by the author, i. 434, 435, 437, ii. 27, 151.
+   Despotic towards their females, i. 520.
+   Polygamy practised by, i. 435, 520.
+   Indolence and apathy of, i. 519, 271, 273, ii. 152.
+   Slight curiosity of, i. 434, 493, 499, ii. 128.
+   Implements of, i. 535.
+   Their mode of sleeping, i. 492.
+   Superstition of, i. 505.
+   Apparel of, i. 516.
+   Parental affection of, i. 502.
+   Account of the poison used by, i. 489.
+   Their common bow and arrow, i. 487.
+   The poisoned arrow, i. 488.
+   Precaution of, during intoxication, i. 520.
+   Contrasted with Africans, i. 516.
+   Employed to cut wood, i. 436.
+   A hut of, visited in the night, i. 492.
+   Visit to a town of, i. 498, 524.
+   A family of, disturbed by the author, ii. 190.
+   Sagacity and expertness of, i. 374.
+
+ Indian women, visit to a dwelling of, i. 474.
+
+ Industry, example of the effect of, at St. Domingo, ii. 399.
+
+ Influenza, prevalence of, at St. Domingo, ii. 421.
+
+ Insects, in what situations most abundant, ii. 229.
+
+ Islands of the river Demarara, ii. 182.
+
+
+                                   J.
+
+ Jackson, Dr. directs the medical department in St. Domingo, ii. 396.
+   Friendly attention of, to the author, ii. 411.
+   His dwelling, and mode of life, ii. 412.
+   Opinion of, relative to yellow fever, ii. 414.
+
+ Jamaica, view of, at sea, ii. 366.
+   Author’s voyage to, ii. 363.
+   Arrival at, ii. 367.
+   Tavern accommodations at, ii. 382.
+
+ Jean Rabel, revolt at, ii. 510.
+
+ Jeremie, and other towns, surrender of, to the British, ii. 507.
+
+ “Joe’s River” estate, i. 179.
+
+ “Johanna,” plantation, i. 476.
+   Prolific garden at, _ib._
+
+ John Bull, singular liberality of, ii. 444.
+
+
+                                   K.
+
+ “Kendall” estate, peculiarities of the manager of, i. 195.
+
+ Kingston, passage to, from Port-Royal, ii. 368.
+   Description of, _ib._
+   People of colour of, ii. 370.
+   Common, English aspect of, ii. 378.
+   Ample supply of the market of, ii. 381.
+
+ Kittarines, unfrequent use of, at St. Domingo, ii. 423.
+
+ Kiwihi, an animal of Guiana, ii. 509.
+
+ Kway, an article of Indian apparel, ii. 517.
+
+
+                                   L.
+
+ Laba, the, a favorite food in South America, i. 499, ii. 213.
+
+ Labat, Père, his publication in 1701, ii. 134.
+
+ La Bourgade, quarters of the medical staff at, i. 368.
+   Description of the building, i. 380.
+   Author’s return to, ii. 89.
+   Temperature at, i. 385.
+
+ Lady, English, ludicrous mistake of one, ii. 123.
+
+ Land, grants of, in Dutch Guiana, ii. 270.
+   Upon the coast, recent cultivation of, ii. 271.
+   Consequences of the neglect of, ii. 274.
+   First view of, from the Lord Sheffield, i. 79.
+   Appearance of, at sea, _ib._
+   Muddy water, an indication of, i. 326.
+
+ Landsmen, conduct of, during a storm, i. 68.
+
+ Lassitude, morning, exemption from, in hot climates, ii. 176.
+
+ Life, military, uncertainties of, i. 45.
+   Civilized, estimation of, i. 66.
+
+ Lights, phenomenon of, around ships at sea, i. 94.
+
+ Lind, Dr., friendly attention of, at Spanish Town, ii. 375.
+
+ List, sick, happy reduction of the, at Demarara, ii. 164.
+
+ Lively, sloop, expedition of the, against the brigands, ii. 445.
+
+ Lodgings, extravagant hire of, at Jamaica, ii. 382.
+
+ “Loo” plantation, contrasted with the “Sand-hill,” ii. 196.
+   Laborious journey to the, ii. 213.
+   Reduced temperature at the, ii. 214.
+
+ Lord Sheffield, transport, i. 52.
+   Separation of, from the convoy, i. 63.
+   The steward of the, his sang-froid, i. 71.
+   Process of cleaning the, at sea, i. 84.
+   Arrival of the, in Carlisle bay, i. 75.
+   Desertion of the crew of the, i. 167.
+
+ Lucie, St. coasting view of, ii. 291.
+   Barren soil of, ii. 293.
+
+ “Lusignan,” plantation, prolific garden at, ii. 255.
+
+
+                                   M.
+
+ Mac ——, hospital-mate, anecdotes of, i. 259.
+
+ Mac-Rae, Captain, kindness of, to the author, ii. 108.
+
+ Maggots, breeding of, in a wounded Negro’s brain, ii. 135.
+
+ Mahaica, author’s removal to, ii. 37.
+   His severe duties at, ii. 38.
+   Situation of, ii. 41.
+
+ Manchineel tree, i. 142.
+
+ Marc, St., conspiracy at, ii. 515.
+
+ March, a healthy season, in Guiana, ii. 248.
+
+ Martinique, author’s voyage to, ii. 289.
+   Coasting view of, ii. 294.
+   Description of, ii. 308.
+   Fine scenery of, ii. 309.
+   Temperature of, ii. 317.
+
+ Master, Dr., embarkation of, for America, ii. 395.
+   His farewell meeting with the author, _ib._
+
+ Meat, living, purchased, at market, i. 120, ii. 475.
+
+ Mechanics, extravagant hire of, in Guiana, ii. 175.
+
+ Medicine, practitioners in, at Barbadoes, i. 212.
+   Mode of remunerating at Demarara, ii. 279.
+   At Martinique, ii. 361.
+
+ Mermaids, existence of, asserted, ii. 3.
+
+ Mills, cotton, description of, i. 214.
+
+ Mole, St. Nicholas, view of, at sea, ii. 391.
+   Account of, ii. 397.
+   Voyage to, from Port au Prince, ii. 439.
+   Sterile appearance of its environs, ii. 451.
+   Insecurity of, ii. 452.
+
+ Moon, appearance of the, at sea, i. 96.
+
+ Motherbank, author’s perilous voyage to the, i. 48.
+
+ Mulatto, cruel treatment of a, at Essequibo, ii. 142.
+   Description of one, singularly deformed, ii. 218.
+
+ Mulattoes, their proud ideas of distinction, ii. 29.
+
+ Mules, mode of feeding, at Martinique, ii. 357.
+   Utility and sagacity of, in the Alps, i. 186.
+
+ Musquitoes, i. 355, 369, 384, 532.
+   Absence of, in the deep forests, ii. 187, 189.
+   Less annoying in Martinique, than in Guiana, ii. 336.
+   Effect of the bitings of, ii. 337.
+
+
+                                   N.
+
+ Negroes, treatment of, on the passage from Africa, ii. 455.
+   Expertness of, at sea, i. 169. ii. 455.
+   Their food, _ib._
+   Their sleeping-birth, _ib._
+   Preparation of, for sale, ii. 456.
+   Sale of, i. 358, 429. ii. 236, 314.
+   Interesting family of, at a sale, ii. 238.
+   Affecting conduct of one, at a sale, i. 431.
+   Affection of, towards each other, i. 361, 431. ii. 238.
+   Their music, i. 127.
+   Their mode of dancing, i. 128, 448.
+   Their ceremony of interment, i. 130.
+   Their fondness for heat, i. 193, 299.
+   For smoking, i. 299.
+   For the water, i. 317.
+   Severe labour supported by, i. 468. ii. 216.
+   A French corps of, at Barbadoes, i. 208.
+   A corps of, entitled South American Rangers, i. 357. ii. 427.
+   Drilling of the “awkward squad,” ii. 128.
+   Doubtful policy of training, to arms, ii. 130.
+   How affected by change of climate, ii. 473.
+   Account of one denominated a white negro, ii. 241.
+   Account of one, a piebald negress, ii. 242.
+   Descent from, an indelible stain, ii. 330.
+
+ ——, “Bush,” or runaway slaves, i. 370.
+   Expedition against the, i. 372.
+   Encampments of the, i. 374.
+   Ringleaders of the, punished, i. 376, 387.
+
+ Newland, Mr. decease and funeral of, ii. 154.
+
+ News, anxious desire for, i. 97, 129, 207. ii. 157.
+   On arriving in Carlisle bay, i. 98.
+
+ Newspapers, high value of, to Englishmen, i. 230.
+
+ Nichol, Mr. arrival of, at Barbadoes, i. 239.
+
+ “Notes,” author’s promise to continue the, ii. 287.
+
+ Noyeau, Martinique, ii. 359.
+
+
+                                   O.
+
+ Oars, use of, as sails, i. 169.
+
+ Obesity, the causes of, i. 522.
+
+ Officers, Bacchanalian conduct of, at Berbische, i. 448.
+   Assumed illness of one, at M. Heynemann’s, i. 491.
+   Medical, arrival of, at Demarara, ii. 116.
+   Fatality from fever, among the, ii. 37, 118, 305.
+   New regulations for, ii. 249.
+   Multiplied titles of the, ii. 250.
+
+ Ongre, Mynheer, plantation of, i. 440.
+
+ “Ooest Vriesland,” the residence of the Post-holder, ii. 203.
+
+ Operations, military, uncertainty of, i. 329.
+
+ Orchard, Colonel Williams’s, i. 159.
+
+ Out-posts, view of, near Port au Prince, ii. 409.
+
+
+                                   P.
+
+ Packet, arrival of the, at Barbadoes, i. 228.
+
+ Passengers, on board the Lion, ii. 402, 441.
+   On board the Roebuck, ludicrous conduct of, ii. 365.
+
+ Patriot, conduct of a soi-disant, ii. 235.
+
+ Peace, supposed indications of, ii. 318.
+
+ Pear, avagata, described, ii. 433.
+
+ Pelican, sloop, action of the, with a privateer, ii. 449.
+
+ “Pens” and villas, at Jamaica, ii. 377.
+
+ Petit-maitre, example of a, in the forest, ii. 197.
+
+ Petroleum, mode of procuring, at Barbadoes, i. 153.
+
+ Pezano, an eccentric character, ii. 202.
+   Arrival of, at the Post-holder’s, ii. 204.
+
+ Pierre, St. beautiful approach to, from the sea, ii. 295.
+   Description of, ii. 296.
+   Inhabitants of, _ib._
+   Accommodations at, ii. 297.
+   Price of provisions at, ii. 298.
+
+ Pine, culture of the, at Barbadoes, i. 163.
+   In England, i. 164.
+
+ Piworree, a liquor used by the Indians, i. 504.
+
+ Plants, medicinal, natural growth of, i. 441.
+
+ Plantains, an important article of food, ii. 142.
+
+ Plantations, between the rivers Demarara and Berbische, ii. 272.
+   Average produce of, ii. 273.
+   Their requisite proportion of stock, _ib._
+
+ Pleasures, alloyed by climate, i. 339.
+
+ Plunder, shameful, on board English ships, ii. 441.
+
+ Poison, and pabulum of animal life, ii. 229.
+
+ Porcupine, Peter, the writings of, ii. 404.
+
+ Porpoises, method of taking, i. 90.
+   Singular habit of, i. 91.
+
+ Port au Prince, author’s voyage to, ii. 401.
+   Observations on arriving at, ii. 409.
+   Morning scene at, ii. 411.
+   Situation and construction of, ii. 428.
+   Contrasted with St. Pierre, ii. 430.
+   Supply of provisions at, ii. 431.
+   The capital of the western division, ii. 499.
+   Capture of, by General Whyte, ii. 511.
+   Conspiracy at, ii. 515.
+
+ Port-Royal, extreme heat of, ii. 367.
+   Appearance of, in a storm, ii. 385.
+
+ Portsmouth, i. 13.
+   Contrasted in war and peace, i. 12.
+   Its dock-yard, i. 13.
+   Its ramparts, i. 21.
+   Its fortifications, _ib._
+   Embarkation scene at, i. 30.
+
+ Post-holder, duties of, in Guiana, i. 511.
+   Accommodations at the dwelling of the, ii. 206.
+   Re-visit to the, ii. 211.
+
+ Potatoe, altered by climate, ii. 470.
+
+ Press-gangs, in Carlisle bay, i. 220.
+
+ Prickly heat, i. 78.
+   Dr. Cleghorn’s impatience respecting, _ib._
+   Attacks the author, i. 368, 428.
+
+ Priest, author officiates as, ii. 55.
+
+ Prize-money, author’s prospect of receiving, i. 344.
+
+ Processions, funeral, depressing effect of, ii. 9.
+
+ Provisions, fresh, hurtful to the sick, ii. 157.
+   Scarcity of, i. 357, 382.
+   Purchase of, from the Spaniards, i. 357.
+   Supply of, at Berbische, i. 452.
+
+ Punishment, Dutch, aquatic mode of, i. 241.
+
+ Pyeis, Indian priests, i, 505.
+
+
+                                   R.
+
+ Race-course, Jamaica, ii. 376.
+
+ Rations, government, importance of, ii. 283.
+
+ Regiment, 93d, gentlemanly mess of the, i. 426.
+
+ Religion, neglect of, in the Dutch colonies, i. 337.
+
+ Roboloski, M. character and hospitality of, ii. 7.
+
+ Roebuck, packet, chased by a privateer, ii. 364.
+
+ “Runaway” estate, at Barbadoes, i. 158.
+
+
+                                   S.
+
+ Sailors, British, a race of heroes, i. 18.
+   Indifference of, in danger, i. 68.
+   Their degrees of comparison, i. 70.
+   Dangerous situation of a party of, i. 45.
+   Coarse witticisms of, i. 43.
+
+ “Sand-hill” estate, its situation—temperature—inhospitality, ii. 193,
+    194.
+
+ “Sans Souci,” plantation, i. 464.
+
+ St. Andrew, Fort, situation of, i. 422.
+
+ St. Vincent, island of, endangered by Charibs, i. 234.
+
+ “Savonette,” plantation, i. 492.
+
+ Scenery, change of, up the Demarara river, ii. 200.
+
+ Schacomynghy, or lion-monkey, ii. 27.
+
+ Scholten, M. chirurgien-major, at Berbische, i. 493.
+
+ Schneider, M. journey of, up the river Berbische, i. 467.
+
+ Scotland, a district in Barbadoes, i. 149.
+
+ Scotsman, eccentric life of a, at Demarara, ii. 190.
+
+ Scott, Dr. assistant inspector, at St. Domingo, ii. 396.
+
+ Season, the dry, salubrity of, ii. 111.
+   Pleasant approach of, ii. 175.
+   Happy effect of, at Mahaica, ii. 119.
+   Occasional showers of, i. 209.
+   The wet, description of, ii. 138.
+   Indications of, ii. 295.
+   At Demarara, remarks upon, ii. 253.
+   At Martinique, ii. 336.
+
+ Sensibility, European female, destroyed, i. 343.
+
+ Sharks, stupidity of, i. 91.
+   Mode of catching, _ib._
+
+ Ship, security of a, at open sea, i. 67.
+   Every sailor’s, the “best in the world,” i. 85.
+   Leaky, horrors of a, at sea, i. 241.
+   In distress, awful appearance of a, i. 61.
+
+ Simcoe, General, chief governor, at St. Domingo, ii. 521.
+
+ Slaves, first specimen of, seen by the author, i. 296.
+   Example of the labour of, at Barbadoes, i. 122.
+   In Guiana, i. 533. ii. 199, 214, 216, 283, 347.
+   At Jamaica, ii. 371.
+   Their hard lot, i. 216, 274, 342, 363, 388. ii. 45, 52.
+   Punishment of, i. 348, 389, 470. ii. 46, 174, 333.
+   A gang of, commanded by a female driver, ii. 121.
+   Character of, i. 119, 302. ii. 111, 210, 315, 354, 461, 529.
+   And slavery, general observations upon, ii. 454, 465.
+   Treatment of, by opulent planters, i. 298. ii. 459.
+   By poorer owners, _ib._
+   By the French, ii. 329.
+   French mode of punishing, _ib._
+   Their huts, i. 143
+     —food, i. 298
+     —clothing, i. 299.
+   Their mode of spending the Sabbath, i. 126. ii. 131.
+   Their ideas relative to freedom, ii. 167, 463.
+   To crimes and punishments, ii. 169.
+   Female, their views respecting liberty, ii. 168.
+   Solicitation of one, to be purchased, i. 342.
+   Their habit of thieving, i. 302.
+   Employed as running footmen, i. 139, 162, 482.
+   European feelings concerning, i. 139, 163.
+   Happy gang of, at Mr. Dougan’s, i. 352.
+   At Mr. Waith’s, i. 197.
+   Cottages, and gardens of, i. 353.
+   A shocking instance of barbarity towards, ii. 45.
+   Cruel punishment of one, by a Dutchman, ii. 333.
+   Funeral of one who was murdered, ii. 47.
+   Protracted sufferings of, from flogging, ii. 52.
+   Conduct of a captured party of, ii. 315.
+   Gratitude of one, named Prince, ii. 173.
+   Surprise of a party of, at “the Falls,” ii. 210.
+   Purchased to let on hire, ii. 278.
+   The price of, ii. 457.
+   Number of, in Demarara and Essequibo, ii. 277.
+   The sad effects of governing, ii. 462.
+   Remarks concerning the emancipation of, ii. 464, 525.
+   Probable importation of, notwithstanding the abolition, ii. 526.
+
+ Slave-trade, remarks concerning the, ii. 465.
+
+ Slavery, contrasted with military duty, ii. 130.
+   Its effect, in debasing the mind, i. 469, ii. 461.
+   On what ground condemned, ii. 460.
+
+ Slave-vendue, a fête at Berbische, i. 429.
+
+ Smoking, acquired habit of, i. 532.
+
+ Snake, an enormous one, at Berbische, ii. 2.
+
+ “Social rock,” at Colonel Williams’s, i. 160.
+
+ Soldiers, intrepid character of, i. 8.
+
+ Southampton, the camp at, i. 6.
+
+ Spanish town, author’s visit to, ii. 373.
+   Description of, ii. 376.
+   Its environs, _ib._
+   Remarks on the road, scenery, and traffic, ii. 374.
+
+ Specimens of Indian implements, &c. shipped for London, ii. 282.
+
+ “Spendlove” estate, i. 196.
+
+ Spithead, a severe gale at, i. 40.
+
+ Spring, boiling, description of a, i. 151.
+
+ Spy, a French one, at Barbadoes, i. 234.
+
+ Stabroek, town of, i. 332.
+   Hospitality of an inhabitant of, i. 334.
+
+ Stadtholder, his birth-day festivities, ii. 235.
+
+ Stanley, transport, supposed loss of the, i. 41.
+   Arrival of the, at Barbadoes, i. 99.
+
+ Stewart, Mr. his plantation of ginger, i. 188.
+
+ Stone, a rock of, novelty of viewing, ii. 208.
+
+ Sugar, mode of claying, i. 194.
+
+ Sun and moon, view of the, from the ocean, i. 95.
+
+ Supper, a Dutch lady’s, ii. 162.
+   —scene, at Martinique, ii. 323.
+
+ Surgeons, regimental, new regulations for, ii. 249.
+
+
+                                   T.
+
+ Tamarind tree, description of the, i. 246.
+   Its fruit disregarded, i. 247.
+
+ Temperature, at Barbadoes, i. 209, 256.
+   At Demarara, i. 385. ii. 120, 190, 212, 214, 224.
+   At Jamaica, ii. 380.
+   In different colonies, remarks upon, ii. 419.
+   Extreme, at mid-day, in a calm, ii. 388.
+
+ Tiburon, unsuccessful attack of, by the British, ii. 508.
+   Successful, ii. 509.
+   Unsuccessful attack of, by Rigaud, ii. 510.
+   Successful, ii. 513.
+
+ Tides, supposed influence of, in fever, ii. 60, 109, 125.
+
+ Tigre, ship of war, state of, after a battle, i. 16.
+
+ Tonquin bean, enormous tree of the, i. 507.
+
+ Towns, site of, usually ill-chosen, ii. 422, 488.
+
+ Trade-wind, cordial welcome of the, i. 76.
+
+ Transmigration, belief of negroes in, i. 133.
+
+ Transports, for troops, observations on, i. 253.
+   Contrasted with slave-ships, i. 254.
+
+ Travelling, West Indian mode of, i. 481.
+
+ Trees, enormous growth of, in South America, ii. 211.
+
+ Tropic, ceremony at crossing the, i, 86.
+
+ Turtle, abundant in St. Domingo, ii. 381.
+   Given to the sick, ii. 450.
+   —shells, use of, in Jamaica, _ib._
+
+
+                                   U.
+
+ Ulysses, author’s embarkation on board the, i. 29.
+   Inconvenient accommodations of the, i. 33.
+   Her altered destination, i. 45.
+
+ United States, author’s intended visit to the, ii. 453.
+
+
+                                   V.
+
+ Van Battenburg, Governor, author’s introduction to, i. 439.
+   His accurate knowledge of the English language, i. 449.
+   Hospitality of, i. 439, 452.
+   Madame, i. 251.
+
+ Vandyke, deputy post-holder, i. 494.
+
+ Vegetables, rapid growth of, in St. Domingo, ii. 400.
+
+ “Vigilantie,” plantation, i. 469.
+
+ Voltigeur, sloop, execrable accommodations of the, i. 396.
+   Author’s sufferings on board the, i. 397.
+   Her repeated disasters and delays, i. 403.
+
+
+                                   W.
+
+ Waith, Mr. humane character of, i. 200.
+
+ War, vicissitudes of, i. 28.
+
+ Washing process, in Barbadoes, i. 146.
+
+ Water, Thames, depuration of, at sea, i. 39.
+   Scarcity of, in Guiana, ii. 176.
+   How obtained, in the dry season, ii. 266.
+   How supplied, at Port au Prince, ii. 422.
+   Lucid appearance of, in the river Berbische, i. 535.
+   Drinking, prejudice against, in the West Indies, i. 250.
+
+ West Indies, picture of the, correctly anticipated, i. 80.
+   Example of danger, from the climate of the, ii. 115.
+   The grave of Europeans, i. 7.
+
+ West Indian, tavern, description of a, i. 110.
+   Hostess, i. 114.
+   Dinner, i. 112.
+   Attendants, i. 114.
+   Harbours, the drawing-rooms of merchantmen, i. 84.
+
+ Whyte, General, arrival of, at St. Domingo, ii. 511.
+   Captures Port au Prince, _ib._
+   His return to England, ii. 513.
+   To St. Domingo, ii. 519.
+   Humanity of, to the sick, i. 366.
+   Author joins, at Port au Prince, ii. 410.
+
+ Wife, a colonist’s, inhumanity of, i. 369.
+   A soldier’s, remarks of, at a negro dance, i. 129.
+
+ Williams, Colonel, visit to, at Barbadoes, i. 147.
+
+ Williamson, Sir Adam, deceived by colonists of St. Domingo, ii. 516.
+   Appointed governor-general of St. Domingo, ii. 517.
+
+ Wine, method of cooling, in the West Indies, i. 113.
+
+ Wool, influence of climate upon, ii. 470.
+
+
+                                   Y.
+
+ Yaw-house, description of a, i. 457.
+
+ Young, Mr. his account of fever in the ship Bangalore, ii. 417.
+
+ Yowahoos, evil spirits, of the Indians, i. 505.
+
+
+                                   Z.
+
+ “Zuidwyk,” plantation, ii. 5.
+
+
+                                THE END.
+
+
+           S. Gosnell, Printer, Little Queen Street, London.
+
+-----
+
+Footnote 1:
+
+  Dr. Monro.
+
+Footnote 2:
+
+  Some medical men contend that fevers which are communicated by
+  contagion, cannot attack the same person twice. If there be any
+  foundation for the opinion, it may stand as an additional proof that
+  the yellow fever is not a contagious disease.
+
+Footnote 3:
+
+  Many of these worse than useless distinctions have lately been done
+  away, and some general regulations established; but still the system
+  is incomplete; and much yet remains to be done, before the medical
+  department can take on that uniformity of character, or proceed with
+  that uniformity of movement, which is requisite in so important a
+  branch of the military body.——1805.
+
+Footnote 4:
+
+  This regulation, which certainly had its advantages, has been found a
+  source of cavil and vexation, and it has since been made an order of
+  government that the fiscal should have his specific reward, and the
+  whole of the fines be devoted to the ways and means of the colony. But
+  it is to be feared, that this arrangement may make him less zealous in
+  executing the duty, and that the roads and bridges may not,
+  henceforth, be found in such excellent repair.
+
+Footnote 5:
+
+  The Dutch weights and measures exceed by about ¹⁄₁₂th part those of
+  England.
+
+Footnote 6:
+
+  Since these notes were written the number of estates has much
+  increased, and several that were only planted with cotton, now produce
+  the most luxuriant crops of sugar.
+
+Footnote 7:
+
+  A large species of wasp.
+
+Footnote 8:
+
+  Already increased to upwards of 80,000.——1805.
+
+Footnote 9:
+
+  Unhappily, with a view to make the sea voyage as short as possible,
+  Dr. Master took his passage on board a vessel bound to South Carolina,
+  where the climate was not less insalubrious than at St. Domingo, and
+  where, soon after his arrival, he relapsed, and fell a victim to
+  disease.
+
+Footnote 10:
+
+  The pen and the politics of this author have since made him generally
+  known to the British public.
+
+Footnote 11:
+
+  In the “Select and posthumous Works” of the celebrated Monsieur de la
+  Harpe, it is related, that at a French table in 1788, where the
+  company was numerous and fashionable, “Chamfort had been reading some
+  of his impious and libertine tales, and the fine ladies had heard them
+  without once making use of their fans.”
+
+Footnote 12:
+
+  Small carriages drawn by single horses.
+
+Footnote 13:
+
+  Many excellent laws have been enacted in various colonies, for the
+  protection of the negroes; but as the testimony of a slave is not
+  admitted in evidence, these laws are of little avail.
+
+Footnote 14:
+
+  These remarks were written in the year 1797; since which, the African
+  slave-trade has been abolished, by an act of Parliament.
+
+Footnote 15:
+
+  It is probable that our troops might be rendered nearly as effective
+  for service in the West Indies, as in Europe, if it were possible, in
+  all cases, to prepare them for the climate by slow and gradual
+  approaches; as, for instance, by first letting them serve, for a time,
+  at Gibraltar, and afterwards employing them, for a year or two, in the
+  more windward islands, such as Barbadoes or Antigua, before they were
+  sent upon duty to the other colonies.
+
+Footnote 16:
+
+  In the year 1793, a body of emigrants from St. Domingo, amounting to
+  upwards of 300 in number, who had made their escape from that colony,
+  under all the circumstances of the most afflicting depression, arrived
+  at Philadelphia, at the time when the yellow fever raged with its
+  utmost malignity; yet, not one of them was attacked with the malady,
+  which was then desolating the town. As if expressly to make this fact
+  the more striking, it happened likewise that the emigrants who arrived
+  at the same distressing period, from Ireland, the States of Germany,
+  and other parts of Europe were attacked by the fever, even in greater
+  proportion than the Americans themselves. It is not the property of
+  any contagion to exhibit such marked partialities. The autumnal
+  temperature of Philadelphia was congenial to the emigrants from St.
+  Domingo: they were acclimated, and therefore not susceptible of the
+  disease; while those from Europe, being the inhabitants of colder
+  regions, were in a peculiar degree predisposed.
+
+Footnote 17:
+
+  This letter has been altered since it was originally written, and the
+  author has availed himself of the facts stated by Mr. Bryan Edwards,
+  in his “History of the British Colonies in the West Indies.”
+
+Footnote 18:
+
+  The following summary is given, by Mr. Bryan Edwards, of the state of
+  agriculture, and of the average exports, in the French division of St.
+  Domingo, at the beginning of the year 1790.
+
+                               ESTATES.
+      431 Plantations of clayed sugar.
+      362 ——————— moscovado.
+    —————
+      793
+
+    3,117 Plantations of coffee.
+      789 ——————— cotton.
+    3,160 ——————— indigo.
+       54 ——————— cocoa.
+      623 Smaller settlements of grain, yams, and other vegetables.
+    —————
+    8,536 Establishments of all kinds throughout the colony.
+
+ EXPORTS.                                      _lbs._ _Value in Livres._
+ Clayed sugar                              58,642,214         41,049,549
+ Moscovado sugar                           86,549,829         34,619,931
+ Coffee                                    71,663,187         71,663,187
+ Cotton                                     6,698,858         12,397,716
+ Indigo, hhds.                                951,607          8,564,463
+ Melasses, hhds.                               23,061          2,767,320
+ An inferior sort of rum called taffia,
+   hhds.                                        2,600            312,000
+ Raw hides, No.                                 6,500             52,000
+ Tanned ditto, No.                              7,900            118,500
+                                                             ———————————
+ Total value at the ports of shipping, in
+         livres of St. Domingo[19]                           171,544,666
+                                                             ———————————
+
+Footnote 19:
+
+  Being equal to £4,956,780 sterling.
+
+Footnote 20:
+
+  The principal establishment might be fixed in or near London, and this
+  might be connected with collateral schools, as branches of the same
+  institution, in the several colonies; the whole being subject to the
+  management of a board or committee, appointed expressly for conducting
+  the affairs of the emancipation; and so regulated as to receive the
+  approbation and assistance of the West India proprietors. In doing
+  justice to the slaves, due care should be taken _to provide a full
+  compensation for their owners_; otherwise, no plan of enfranchisement
+  can be equitable, or administered with a fair prospect of proving
+  beneficial to the colonies. In the measure now suggested, this might
+  form a constituent part of the arrangement: a moderate tax might be
+  raised, both in this country and the settlements, for the combined
+  purpose of aiding the emancipation, and supplying the compensation.
+
+  As the system would be progressive in its operation, a very large sum
+  would not be immediately required: perhaps an adequate fund might be
+  derived from the following sources:
+
+  1. An appropriation of the “King’s Tax,” now levied in some of the
+  colonies, and an extension of it, to all the British settlements in
+  the West Indies.
+
+  2. A Sunday toll, to be collected at every toll-gate throughout the
+  United Kingdom.
+
+  3. Voluntary contributions, and collections after charity sermons, to
+  be preached half-yearly on the subject of the emancipation, in every
+  church, chapel, and licensed place of worship in Great Britain and
+  Ireland.
+
+  If these means should appear to be insufficient, it may be presumed
+  that, at this happy period of diminishing the national burthens, few
+  Englishmen could refuse themselves the gratification of promoting such
+  a benevolent cause, by contributing ten or fifteen shillings per cent.
+  according to the rate of the tax on property.
+
+------------------------------------------------------------------------
+
+
+
+
+                          TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES
+
+
+ ● Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained.
+ ● Used numbers for footnotes, placing them all at the end of the last
+     chapter.
+ ● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_.
+ ● Enclosed blackletter font in =equals=.
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77323 ***