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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77322 ***
+
+
+
+
+ NOTES
+ ON THE
+ WEST INDIES,
+ INCLUDING OBSERVATIONS RELATIVE TO
+ THE CREOLES AND SLAVES
+ OF THE
+ =Western Colonies,=
+ AND
+ _THE INDIANS OF SOUTH AMERICA_;
+ INTERSPERSED WITH REMARKS
+ UPON
+ THE SEASONING OR YELLOW FEVER
+ OF HOT CLIMATES.
+
+ SECOND EDITION,
+
+ _With additional Letters from Martinique, Jamaica, and St. Domingo_.
+
+
+ BY GEORGE PINCKARD, M. D.
+
+ Of the Royal College of Physicians,
+ Deputy Inspector-General of Hospitals to His Majesty’s Forces,
+ Physician to the Bloomsbury Dispensary,
+ The London Female Penitentiary, &c.
+
+
+ IN TWO VOLUMES.
+
+ VOL. I.
+
+It is a strange thing, that in sea voyages, where there is nothing to be
+seene but sky and sea, men should make diaries; but in land trauaile,
+wherin so much is to bee obserued, for the most part they omit it, as if
+chance were fitter to bee registered than obseruation.
+
+ LORD VERULAM.
+
+ _LONDON_:
+
+ PUBLISHED BY MESSRS. BALDWIN, CRADOCK, AND JOY,
+ PATERNOSTER ROW;
+
+ AND L. B. SEELEY, FLEET STREET.
+
+ 1816.
+
+
+
+
+ PREFACE.
+
+
+From the entreaties of a Friend the following “Notes” were written for
+his private eye:—from the solicitations of other friends they are now
+offered to the eye of the Public. The former were tender persuasions,
+and, in obeying them, the author had much and sincere gratification: he
+wishes he could feel as well assured that he is pursuing the path of
+wisdom, by yielding to the latter. But he is sensible that what may be
+amusing, or may be deemed even valuable, in the closet of friendship,
+may be very unfit to meet the less-prejudiced judgment of the world; and
+he is not without many apprehensions, lest a flattering partiality—a
+partiality which often deals praise, where no merit is due, should have
+induced him to present to the Public, that which ought never to have
+escaped beyond the limits of private perusal.
+
+Conscious how little his “Notes” are calculated to withstand the
+scrutinizing severity of criticism, he may observe that, at no time,
+during the period of writing them, had he a thought that they were
+destined to appear at the bar of the Public. To fulfil the wishes of
+one, whose sentiments and opinions were dear to him, was a grateful
+task: it was congenial to his feelings, and, regardless of studied
+rules, he performed it with all the freedom of familiar intercourse. He
+devoted to his friend, daily, the few last minutes before retiring to
+his pillow; whence it happened that his remarks were, often, traced with
+a drowsy pen, or hurried over with a wearied and reluctant arm: but,
+from adopting this habit, the busy occupation of the day suffered no
+interruption; all the occurrences were noted, whilst they were strongly
+alive in the memory; and those who have known the privation of a long
+and perilous absence from their home, and the objects of their esteem,
+will comprehend the many happy associations, which were, thus, brought
+to sweeten the hours of repose.
+
+At the time of the author’s arrival in the West Indies, every thing, in
+the tropical regions, was new to him. He was desirous of obtaining
+information, and without waiting to digest his remarks into a systematic
+train; to stamp them with the importance of method; or to improve them
+by more mature observation, he endeavoured to convey, to his friend, a
+correct representation of the feelings impressed upon his mind, by the
+novel scenes around him, before habit and familiarity had weakened their
+effect.
+
+
+He fears that the frequent repetitions, necessary to this mode of
+communication, will be found to be more tedious, and, in some instances,
+even more multiplied than a “thrice told tale;” but he saw no way of
+avoiding them, without altering the whole plan of the work, and
+depriving it of the only merit, which he feels it has any title to
+claim, viz. that of giving the occurrences, precisely as they passed
+before the eye. He was not engaged in a deliberate voyage of discovery;
+nor did the busy and anxious duties of his appointment allow him time
+for pursuits of minute investigation. The utmost he could hope was to
+catch events as they passed, and faithfully note them from the
+impression of the fleeting moment. If it should be objected to him that
+the remarks are not always of high importance, he would observe that it
+is not from great occurrences, alone, that a correct judgment is formed
+of men and things: it is more from the daily, common round, than from
+the great and blazoned events, that a just knowledge is acquired of the
+characters of individuals:—perhaps, also, of empires, nations, and
+colonies.
+
+
+
+
+ ADVERTISEMENT
+ TO THE
+ SECOND EDITION.
+
+
+In presenting the former edition of the following “Notes” to the Public,
+the author explained that they were collected, from fleeting events,
+during a series of professional duties, which offered only short
+intervals of leisure and repose, and that they were originally intended
+only for the gratification of a private circle. He expressed, likewise,
+his apprehensions respecting their being submitted to general scrutiny,
+and the severity of criticism. He has now the satisfaction of remarking,
+that the public reception of the first impression has been more
+encouraging than he had allowed himself to expect. For several years
+past the book has been out of print, and, during this period, multiplied
+applications have been made, requesting the author to prepare a new
+edition.
+
+In complying with these entreaties, he has been anxiously desirous of
+rendering the present pages more worthy of general attention: and with
+this view, he has availed himself of such candid and manly criticisms,
+as appeared to have arisen from a fair and liberal examination of the
+work.
+
+Not only have those parts of the former edition, which were deemed
+irrelevant, been removed, and others, which appeared diffuse, condensed,
+but a considerable proportion of new matter, respecting the Islands of
+Martinique, Jamaica, and St. Domingo, as well as upon the subject of
+slavery in general, has been introduced. In order to accomplish this
+object, without increasing the bulk of the volumes, the author has found
+it necessary to have frequent recourse to abridgment, and even to the
+omission of whole pages, where the subject was of minor importance.
+
+These extensive alterations and additions have been made with as much
+care as the various avocations of the author allowed him to bestow:
+still, he cannot but regret that the imperious duties of a professional
+life have not only considerably delayed the appearance of the present
+edition; but have prevented that minute and attentive revision which he
+wished it to receive.
+
+ BLOOMSBURY SQUARE,
+ _April, 1816_.
+
+
+
+
+ CONTENTS
+ OF
+ THE FIRST VOLUME.
+
+
+ LETTER I.
+ _Remarks on epistolary correspondence. Explanation why the
+ author’s narrative cannot be regular. Journey to Southampton.
+ Author attends at head quarters:—at the military hospital_ Page 1
+
+
+ LETTER II.
+ _Visit to the encampment near Southampton. Reflections upon the
+ occasion. Discouraging remarks of the spectators. Author’s
+ probable destination. Policy of yielding to passing
+ occurrences. Frivolity of the French character:—contrasted
+ with the gloomy dispositions of the English_ 5
+
+
+ LETTER III.
+ _Description of Portsmouth. Picture of a Portsmouth Cyprian.
+ Visit to the dock-yard, and to the Tigre ship of war. Haslar
+ Hospital:—its excellent establishment_ 13
+
+
+ LETTER IV.
+ _Author detained at Portsmouth. Weather tempestuous_ 23
+
+
+ LETTER V.
+ _Author and his comrades joined by Dr. Cleghorn. Visit to Forton
+ prison. Example of the vicissitudes of war_ 27
+
+
+ LETTER VI.
+ _Author goes on board the Ulysses, accompanied by Drs.
+ Henderson, Master, and Cleghorn. Embarkation scene at
+ Portsmouth. Accommodations of the Ulysses_ 29
+
+
+ LETTER VII.
+ _Sailing of the Leeward Island division. The Ulysses left to
+ join the Cork convoy. Firing of the ship’s cannon_ 36
+
+
+ LETTER VIII.
+ _Author detained at Spithead. The convoy dispersed by a
+ tremendous gale:—returns to Spithead. Many ships lost. The
+ “Stanley” transport, with troops, supposed to be of the
+ number. Effects of the storm upon the Ulysses. Author’s
+ sickness. Coarse jokes of the sailors_ 40
+
+
+ LETTER IX.
+ _The Ulysses destined to proceed, with troops, to the West
+ Indies. Author and comrades separated. Dr. Master and the
+ author appointed to embark on board the Lord Sheffield.
+ Further effects of the gale_ 45
+
+
+ LETTER X.
+ _Author’s perilous passage to the Mother-bank. His reception on
+ board the Diana frigate. Hospitality of Lieutenant Davy, and
+ the other officers. Author proceeds to the Lord Sheffield.
+ Character and appearance of that ship_ 48
+
+
+ LETTER XI.
+ _Unsettled state of the author. Visit to the “Commercé de
+ Marseilles.” Dr. Cleghorn joins the mess on board the Lord
+ Sheffield. Signal for departure_ 54
+
+
+ LETTER XII.
+ _Lord Sheffield at sea. Grand spectacle formed by the sailing of
+ the convoy. Alternate hopes and apprehensions. Ceremony of
+ fixing the “dead-lights” at sea. Fleet collected and again
+ dispersed. Distress on witnessing the awful situation of a
+ neighbouring ship. Separation of the Lord Sheffield from the
+ convoy. Carlisle Bay the rendezvous of the fleet_ 56
+
+
+ LETTER XIII.
+ _Author still at sea. Cruel succession of storms. Contrast
+ between the effects of a gale on the minds of landsmen and of
+ sailors. Sang froid of the steward. Description of a cabin
+ dinner at sea. The Lord Sheffield passes the Azores_ 65
+
+
+ LETTER XIV.
+ _Arrival of the Lord Sheffield in Carlisle Bay. Improved sailing
+ towards the conclusion of the voyage. Trade-wind welcomed.
+ Advantages of bathing in a tropical climate. “Prickly heat.”
+ First tidings of land being in sight. Coasting view of
+ Barbadoes. Entrance of Carlisle Bay. Description of the
+ harbour_ 75
+
+
+ LETTER XV.
+ _Process of cleaning and ornamenting the ship at sea. Every
+ sailor’s vessel “the best in the world.” Ceremony at crossing
+ the tropic. Porpoises. Mode of catching sharks. Description of
+ the flying fish. Temperature of the weather. Phenomenon of
+ lights round the vessel at night. Appearance of the rising and
+ setting sun_ 84
+
+
+ LETTER XVI.
+ _Anxiety for news. French privateering. St. Vincent saved from
+ the Charibs. Happy feeling on going on shore. Visit to a North
+ American slave-ship. Situation of the slaves. Visit to a
+ Liverpool Guinea-man_ 97
+
+
+ LETTER XVII.
+ _Description of a West Indian tavern. Mode of cooling wine.
+ Attendants of the table. The hostess. Interesting demeanour of
+ the bar-maid. Conversation of two negro girls_ 110
+
+
+ LETTER XVIII.
+ _Inactivity of the Barbadians. A gang of negroes. Indecencies of
+ the slaves. Baneful effect of such scenes upon European
+ modesty. Fight between two female slaves_ 121
+
+
+ LETTER XIX.
+ _Sabbath festivities of the slaves. Their music:—mode of
+ dancing. A negro funeral. Consequences of a belief in the
+ doctrine of transmigration. Stratagem of a slave-master to
+ prevent suicide_ 126
+
+
+ LETTER XX.
+ _Author’s introduction to the principal inhabitants of
+ Barbadoes. Visit of an European party at Dr. Hinde’s. Views of
+ the country. Inspection of the sugar and distilling houses.
+ The party attended by slaves, as running footmen. Degrading
+ scene of female slavery. Effects of the manchineel apple.
+ Description of a negro-yard. Accommodations of its
+ inhabitants. Their comparative happiness. Washing process_ 135
+
+
+ LETTER XXI.
+ _Visit to Col. Williams’s. Nature of the soil near Bridge-town.
+ Picturesque scenery of the part of the island called Scotland.
+ A boiling spring. Natural separation of petroleum. Mode of
+ collecting it. Grandeur of the cabbage tree. Mount
+ Hilloughby:—view from its summit. The runaway estate.
+ Delicious refreshment in a valley of fruits. Dinner-party
+ under the “social rock.” Tropical fruits. Examples of art
+ rivalling nature_ 147
+
+
+ LETTER XXII.
+ _Convoy still delayed. Alarm in Carlisle Bay. Oars employed as
+ sails. Adroitness of negroes in using the oar. The trade of
+ book-binder unknown at Barbadoes_ 166
+
+
+ LETTER XXIII.
+ _A marooning expedition. Visit to “Harrison’s Cave.” “Joe’s
+ River” Estate. Hospitalities at the “Bay-house.” Description
+ of the “Animal flower.” “Hackleton’s Cliff.” Visit at the
+ Colleton estate. The Barbadoes, or Codrington college. Mode of
+ claying sugar. Visit at “Clarke’s Court”—“Kendall,”
+ “Drax-hall,” and “Spendlove” estates. Happy situation of Mr.
+ Waith’s slaves. Their gratitude. Picture of a negro-yard.
+ Character of Mr. Waith. Visit to Mr. Elcock’s. Disappointment
+ regarding his botanical collection_ 172
+
+
+ LETTER XXIV.
+ _The convoy still absent. Unpleasant tidings from Grenada. A
+ French negro corps. State of the weather. Temporary hospitals,
+ and preparations for the sick at St. Anne’s Hill. Appearance
+ of a coco-nut grove by moon-light_ 206
+
+
+ LETTER XXV.
+ _State of the healing art at Barbadoes: ignorance of some of its
+ practitioners: qualifications necessary in a tropical climate:
+ apathy respecting illiterate pretenders. Description of a
+ cotton-mill. Mode of carrying children in Barbadoes. Wanton
+ cruelty towards a slave_ 212
+
+
+ LETTER XXVI.
+ _Part of the fleet safe in Carlisle Bay. Press-gangs visit the
+ transports. Proceedings of one of these bodies on board the
+ Lord Sheffield_ 219
+
+
+ LETTER XXVII.
+ _Visit to the Senate-house. Proceedings of the General Assembly
+ of the island. Dinner-party on board the Lord Sheffield.
+ Escape of a prisoner from Guadaloupe. Victor Hugues.
+ Prevalence of virtue, a test of good government_ 223
+
+
+ LETTER XXVIII.
+ _Arrival of a packet from England. Eagerness to ascertain the
+ news. Ordinary comforts improved by absence and privations.
+ Forlorn state of the expedition. Unfavorable reports from
+ Grenada and St. Vincent. Arrival of Sir Ralph Abercromby:—its
+ effects. Cork fleet at sea. Uncertainties of a sea voyage.
+ Arrival of the General Cuyler after imminent perils. Dutch
+ mode of punishment. Horrors excited by a leaky ship_ 228
+
+
+ LETTER XXIX.
+ _Arrival of vessels of the Cork division. Visit to the “Venus”
+ slave-ship. The tamarind tree_ 244
+
+
+ LETTER XXX.
+ _Author waits on the Commander in Chief. Voyage to St. Domingo
+ postponed. Author hitherto unaffected by climate. Proposed
+ tontine. Physicians of the St. Domingo staff placed on duty.
+ Sickness prevalent—especially in the vessels of the Cork
+ division. East India ships unfit for transports. Slaves more
+ healthy in the Guinea ships. Weather hot and oppressive_ 249
+
+
+ LETTER XXXI.
+ _More disappointments. Arrival of a fleet of merchantmen.
+ Character and adventure of poor Mac—_ 257
+
+
+ LETTER XXXII.
+ _Arrival of the body of the Cork fleet. Acuteness of sailors in
+ observing distant objects. Effects of a tropical climate on
+ the human system:—Brunonian illustration. Influence of climate
+ on a phlegmatic Dutchman_ 264
+
+
+ LETTER XXXIII.
+ _The chigoe. African mode of extracting it. Indolent labour of
+ slaves. Unmerited severity towards one of them_ 269
+
+
+ LETTER XXXIV.
+ _General observations concerning Barbadoes. Its importance, in
+ the opinion of its inhabitants. Its ample supply of stock.
+ Languid pronunciation of the Creoles. First party of slaves
+ seen by the author. State of the negroes. Account of the
+ elephantiasis, or “Barbadoes disease.” Titles of the estates.
+ Cottages of white inhabitants. Their habits, persons, and
+ complexions. Argument against the doctrine of conversion.
+ Ignorance respecting the Portsmouth convoy. Physicians of the
+ St. Domingo staff left on duty at Barbadoes. Number of sick.
+ Case of yellow fever_ 275
+
+
+ LETTER XXXV.
+ _Rumours of an approaching expedition. Fondness of the negroes
+ for the water. Their expertness in that element. Their
+ cleanliness_ 317
+
+
+ LETTER XXXVI.
+ _Author detached on secret service. Embarks on board the Grenada
+ transport. Crowded state of the ship. Means used to prevent
+ disease. Strength of the expedition. It passes to the south of
+ the sun_ 320
+
+
+ LETTER XXXVII.
+ _Destination of the expedition. Indications on approaching the
+ shores of Guiana. Preparations for debarkation_ 326
+
+
+ LETTER XXXVIII.
+ _The troops proceed on shore. Vexatious delays and
+ disappointments. Capitulation of Fort William Frederic.
+ Sickness of the troops. Influence of martial preparations upon
+ the soldiers. General aspect of the colony, and of the town of
+ Stabroek. Author seeks accommodations for the sick_ 328
+
+
+ LETTER XXXIX.
+ _Expedition against Berbische. Scarcity of animal provisions.
+ Zeal of an infuriated republican. Healthy appearance of the
+ colonists. Refutation of the alleged insalubrity of Guiana.
+ Visit to a coffee plantation. Gratifications in a tropical
+ country counteracted by climate. Fruit given to the sick. Sale
+ of negroes. Hospitality of the colonists. Author entreated by
+ a female slave to purchase her. Corporal punishment of slaves.
+ Barbarous exultation of a white female. Author’s chance of
+ prize-money_ 335
+
+
+ LETTER XL.
+ _Barbadoes the “London” of the windward colonies. Admiral
+ Christian’s arrival. Wet season at Stabroek. Negroes employed
+ to cut grass for sale. Cruel punishment of a slave. Visit to
+ “Arcadia.” Happy condition of Mr. Dougan’s slaves at “Profit.”
+ Musquitoes and fire-flies_ 346
+
+
+ LETTER XLI.
+ _Capitulation of Berbische. Intended negro corps. Critical
+ situation of the colony. Scarcity of animal provisions.
+ Liberality of colonists to the sick. Description of a regular
+ sale of negroes. Case of yellow fever, with appearances on
+ examination. Its appellation inaccurate_ 356
+
+
+ LETTER XLII.
+ _Author remains in Guiana. General Whyte considerate towards the
+ sick—Colonel Hislop likewise. Military Hospital at La
+ Bourgade. Singular request of a colonial lady. Account of the
+ Bush-negroes. Means employed to subdue them. Sagacity of the
+ Indians. Severities inflicted on the prisoners. Heroic
+ fortitude of Amsterdam, one of their leaders_ 366
+
+
+ LETTER XLIII.
+ _Accommodations of the medical officers. Visit from a naval
+ party. Attempts to procure animal provisions. Hospitality of
+ Capt. Dougan. Author’s rest at La Bourgade undisturbed by
+ musquitoes. State of the thermometer_ 380
+
+
+ LETTER XLIV.
+ _Further examples of yellow fever. Execution of a captain of the
+ Bush-negroes. Public punishment of slaves. Flagrant injustice
+ towards a negro carpenter_ 386
+
+
+ LETTER XLV.
+ _Author’s voyage to Berbische. Miserable accommodations of the
+ Voltigeur_ 395
+
+
+ LETTER XLVI.
+ _Situation of Fort St. Andrew. Town of New Amsterdam. State of
+ the colony. Accommodations for the sick. Author joins the mess
+ of the 93d regiment. Excellent discipline maintained by Col.
+ Gammell_ 422
+
+
+ LETTER XLVII.
+ _A Dutch sale of slaves:—a gala-day for the colonists. Affecting
+ conduct of a negro about to be separated from his wife. A
+ party of Indians. People from the woods employed to fell
+ timber. An Indian family_ 429
+
+
+ LETTER XLVIII.
+ _Hospitality of the Governor and Madame Van Battenburg. Visit to
+ Mynheer Ongre’s plantation. Celebration of His Majesty’s
+ birth-day. Report of the cannon through the deep woods_ 439
+
+
+ LETTER XLIX.
+ _Surrender of St. Lucie. Sudden effect of a coup de soleil.
+ Rapid fatality in a case of yellow fever. Alligators at Fort
+ St. Andrew. Fête of the slaves at Government-house.
+ Bacchanalian conduct of a party of officers. Proofs of the
+ Governor’s knowledge of the English language. Madame Van
+ Battenburg. Sumptuous entertainment at Mr. Blair’s. Unusual
+ domestic supply at his plantation. Visit to the yaw-house.
+ Treatment employed in this odious distemper_ 443
+
+
+ LETTER L.
+ _Influence of the will in subduing difficulties. A marooning
+ expedition up the river Berbische. Plantation “Het
+ Pleytanker”—“Essendam.” Hospitality of Mynheer Abbensets_ 459
+
+
+ LETTER LI.
+ _Marooning excursion continued. The party receive intelligence
+ concerning their route from Mr. Schneider. Plantation
+ “Vigilantie.” Severe labour supported by the slaves. Their
+ mode of refreshing themselves. Visit to the negro-yard at
+ Vigilantie. Example of the immoral effect of slavery. Singular
+ mode of punishment. Visit to le vieux Fiscal, and Mynheer
+ Scholten at Old Amsterdam. Anti-orange sentiments of le vieux
+ Fiscal_ 466
+
+
+ LETTER LII.
+ _Mynheer and Madame Scholten. Town of Old Amsterdam. Visit to
+ the dwellings of a party of Indians—and of manumitted negro
+ women. Dutch example of the united profession of
+ surgeon-barber. Estate “Johanna.” Its productive garden.
+ Singular appearance of a party ginning cotton_ 473
+
+
+ LETTER LIII.
+ _Journey over-land to Arends. Pleasing echo in the woods.
+ Apprehensions on account of the Bush-negroes. Picturesque
+ appearance of the travelling party and their slaves.
+ Hospitality and politeness of Mynheer Paùels. Arrival at
+ Mynheer Heynemann’s the Dutch post-holder, and captain of the
+ Indians. His household_ 480
+
+
+ LETTER LIV.
+ _Occupations of the morning at Mr. Heynemann’s. Indians termed
+ Bucks and Buckeen. Description of their common bow and arrow,
+ and the poisoned arrow. Account of the poison. Journey to
+ Savonette. Visit at an Indian hut in the night. Vandyke, the
+ deputy post-holder. Accommodations at Savonette_ 486
+
+
+ LETTER LV.
+ _Visit to an Indian town. Nonchalance of the inhabitants. The
+ Laba. Parental feeling of an Indian woman. Fate of a youthful
+ Indian lover. Habits of the Indians. Construction of their
+ dwellings. Pyeis and yowahoos. Visit to a huge tonquin-bean
+ tree. The Kiwihi. Return of the party to Mr. Heynemann’s, and
+ to Arends_ 497
+
+
+ LETTER LVI.
+ _Generous attention of Mynheer Heynemann: his duty as
+ post-holder—his character—elected a chief among the Indians.
+ General account of the native inhabitants of
+ Guiana:—contrasted with the Africans. Indian apparel. The
+ “Kway”_ 510
+
+
+ LETTER LVII.
+ _Indian practice of eradicating hair from the person. Indolence
+ and apathy of the people of the forest:—method observed in
+ their intoxication:—arbitrary and despotic towards their
+ females. Polygamy practised. Indians usually enbonpoint.
+ Obesity the effect of inaction, or indulgence in eating.
+ Grotesque appearance of the party journeying back to
+ “Johanna.” An Indian village. Miserable state of a diseased
+ woman. “Helvetia”—Hospitality of Mynheer Freinde. The party
+ fanned by slaves, during dinner, at Johanna. Renewed visit to
+ M. Scholten, and le vieux Fiscal. “Daargradt,” one of the
+ prize-estates. Musquitoes_ 518
+
+
+ LETTER LVIII.
+ _The party continue their journey down the river. Friendly
+ attention of Mynheer Abbensets. Habit of smoking. Annoyance
+ from musquitoes. Return to New Amsterdam. Retrospect of the
+ expedition. General reflections upon the scenery, mode of
+ travelling, &c. &c. Singular example of West Indian
+ complaisance_ 530
+
+
+
+
+ ERRATUM.
+
+
+Page 22, line 1, _for_ Colbert, _read_, Cohorn.
+
+
+
+
+ NOTES,
+ _&c._
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER I.
+
+
+ Southampton, Oct. 3, 1795.
+
+The happiness we enjoy by corresponding with those whom we esteem, when
+separated from them, beyond the reach of personal intercourse, ranks
+amongst the highest blessings of civilized life. It is to navigation and
+the art of writing, those powerful engines which have established a
+freedom of intercourse throughout the wide extent of the globe, that we
+are indebted for the enjoyment of communicating with far distant
+friends, and thereby rendering our separation less intolerable.
+
+But you will too soon discover how much you have sacrificed your
+judgment to your feelings, in so strenuously requiring frequent
+communications, from me, during my absence from England. In the
+correspondence which your kindness has exacted, you will have to
+encounter a task, while all the advantages of amusement and instruction
+will be mine. Still, as you have brought it upon yourself, you must be
+content to see me your debtor, assured of my regret that the benefit, to
+be derived, cannot be reciprocal. Did I even possess all the glowing and
+happy talents necessary to descriptive narration, the busy employment of
+my time, and the unsettled state of my mind, amidst the perpetual hurry
+and uncertainty of military movements, must prevent me from observing,
+and still more from relating what may pass before me, with accuracy; and
+from being unable to mature my remarks by the recurrent eye of a
+continued residence, they will necessarily be superficial and
+undigested.
+
+You can only expect the perusal of hasty notes, hastily collected, by an
+observer whose time must be devoted to the duties of his appointment;
+and whose movements and pauses must be regulated by those exigencies of
+the army which more imperiously demand his attention.
+
+But it were needless to enter into a detail of the allowances you will
+have to make. You already know them: hence, as apologies are irksome to
+you, I forego all further comment, and, meeting you as you desire,
+proceed to my subject.
+
+The adventures of a stage-coach are sometimes amusing, but it happened
+that my journey, hither, was peculiarly devoid of incident, being,
+merely, a dark nocturnal ride, without any thing to divert, or to
+interest.
+
+Amidst the stillness of night we rolled swiftly on, without impediment
+or delay, always finding horses in readiness at the place of change.
+Even the great business of eating and drinking was more than commonly
+disregarded. No social hour of supper was observed: nor were our
+conductors troubled with those frequent calls of thirst, which are,
+commonly, so vexatious and annoying to the passengers. To reach the end
+of the journey seemed alike the object of all.
+
+We arrived at an early hour, and after taking the refreshment of a cold
+ablution, and a plentiful breakfast, I proceeded, without delay, to head
+quarters, to pay my respects to the commander in chief. It happened that
+the inspector-general of hospitals was with Sir Ralph Abercromby, at the
+time: I, therefore, reported my appointment to both; and put myself
+under command.
+
+From the quarters of the commander in chief, I accompanied the
+inspector-general to visit the sick. This afforded me an early
+opportunity of viewing the military hospital, and I have great pleasure
+in remarking to you that it does much credit to the doctor’s[1] judgment
+and industry. Placed in the direction of the medical department, his
+exertions have demonstrated how essential it is to commit that important
+appointment to an officer whose experience qualifies him for all the
+various duties it demands. From a well-devised arrangement, forwarded by
+a zealous and laudable industry, he has caused a large old building,
+late a sugarhouse, to be converted into a commodious, and well-aired
+hospital; where the sick are comfortably placed, duly attended, and
+conveniently, as well as liberally accommodated.
+
+The clock tells me it is midnight. Adieu!
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER II.
+
+
+ Southampton, Oct. 5.
+
+If you were a stranger to Southampton, I might offer you many full pages
+upon its delightful situation, and the many charms of its environs; for
+it cannot be disputed that this town and neighbourhood afford more of
+pleasing scenery, convenience, and accommodation, than most other parts
+of England.
+
+As you know my habit of visiting what are called _the lions_ of a place,
+as soon as possible after my arrival, you will conclude that I have not
+neglected the encampment near Southampton. I have made it a visit of
+very attentive inspection, and much do I wish it were possible for words
+to convey, to you, the host of feelings that rushed into my mind upon
+the occasion: I scarcely knew which was predominant. Viewing the
+soldiers, in full contemplation of the strict order, the manly
+deportment, and the elevated enthusiasm of their character, my mind
+traversed, in hasty review, all the perils and hardships, the glory and
+honors, which attach to a military life. I felt a sense of pride and
+gratification on seeing so fine a body of men ready to join in our
+expedition. My imagination placed all the inviting forms of success
+before them. I observed them in battle, on the opposite side of the
+Atlantic; felt honored in their bravery; hailed them victorious, and,
+crowned with the laurels they had won, saw them return in safety, to
+their home, and their friends.
+
+Yet the bright picture was not without its shades: restless fancy went
+on to busy herself in gloomy comparisons, in painful contrasts, and
+afflicting reverses! Viewing the brilliancy, the order, and the comfort
+of a domestic camp, in the peaceful fields of England, she called up
+ideas of a confused and tumultuous encampment upon the enemy’s soil,
+threatened by the approach of a daring foe, routed by blood-thirsty
+cohorts, or stormed by a horde of merciless brigands! And, still worse
+than these, were painted the fatal ills of climate: yellow fever opened
+her devouring jaws, and, in deadly disease, exposed a contrast, yet more
+afflictive, than all the perils of battle.
+
+Although, in my mind, the more happy face of the picture maintained its
+impression, I am sorry to believe that the general sensation of the
+country is in sympathy with the opposite. A degree of horror seems to
+have overspread the nation, from the late destructive effects of the
+seasoning fever, or, what the multitude denominates, the West India
+plague; insomuch that a sense of terror attaches to the very name of the
+West Indies; many considering it synonymous with the grave. Perhaps, it
+were not too much to say, that all, who have friends in the expedition,
+apprehend more from disease than the sword.
+
+Such discouraging sentiments, I am sorry to find, have not been
+concealed from the troops. The fearful farewell of desponding friends is
+every day, and hour, either heedlessly, or artfully brought to their
+ears. People walking about the camp, attending at a review, or a parade,
+or merely upon seeing parties of soldiers in the streets, are heard to
+exclaim, “Ah, poor fellows! you are going to your last home! What a pity
+that such brave men should go to that West India grave!—to that hateful
+climate to be killed by the plague! Poor fellows, good-by, farewell! we
+shall never see you back again!” With such-like accents are the soldiers
+incessantly saluted; and the hopeless predictions are loudly echoed, by
+the designing, whose turbulent spirits would be gratified in exciting
+discontent among the troops.
+
+But, strongly as I would condemn every attempt, and every incaution,
+which might create even the feeblest ray of terror in the breasts of the
+soldiers, yet I cannot but be sensible, that it is a service of imminent
+danger: and, while I look at these men, in high admiration of their
+intrepid character, the recollection of the general sensation, which
+prevails respecting them, steals upon me, and causes a silent pang, in
+the consciousness that a great majority of them will never return. Still
+I hope that every soldier is governed by the same individual feelings as
+myself, and that each is fully impressed with the belief that it will be
+his lot to escape.
+
+It is the duty of military men to serve wheresoever their country
+requires; hence the attempts to inspire them with a dread of climate are
+not less cruel, than mischievous: designed to injure the country, they
+operate by distressing the feelings of the individual, whose noble mind
+knows no fear of death from any other cause; but, if he fall, falls
+without a murmur, glorying in having devoted himself to his country, and
+calmly resigning himself to the fate of war.
+
+It does not appear that the expedition is so, immediately, upon the eve
+of sailing as is generally imagined. The whole of the troops are not yet
+assembled, nor are the transports in readiness.
+
+From some information, which has reached us, it appears not unlikely
+that we may find our names upon the St. Domingo staff, instead of the
+staff of the Leeward Islands; in which case we may have to make a
+journey to Cork, to join the expedition about to sail from Ireland. This
+would be a disappointment to me, beyond the mere inconvenience of again
+moving my person and my baggage, for, in the Leeward Island division, I
+have acquaintances, whom I had hoped to find my comrades on service;
+while, with the St. Domingo staff, there are very few persons to whom I
+am known.
+
+In my present pursuit I feel the necessity of viewing occurrences in
+their best light; but I shall make it my duty to remove whatever
+difficulties may occur, by subduing them. As if the evils of the world
+were not enough severe, we, too commonly, attach ourselves to the
+unhappy face of events, brood over fancied sorrows, and, eagerly,
+multiply our disappointments:
+
+ “Yet some there are, of men I think the worst,
+ Poor imps! unhappy if they can’t be curs’d,
+ For ever brooding over mis’ry’s eggs”
+
+ · · · · ·
+
+This gloomy tendency of disposition forms a remarkable characteristic
+between the people of England and those of France: while an Englishman,
+in afflictive contemplation, dwells on misfortune, even to suicide, a
+Frenchman, however adverse the affairs of the moment, always finds
+wherewithal to attach his better hopes!
+
+From this facility of yielding to events, it has been said that the
+French people know how to _play the game of happiness_ better than the
+English. It may be so. But still it is possible that the principle, to
+which I allude, may be carried to excess. Where it is the effect of a
+patient and manly fortitude, and employed to support us against injury,
+misfortune, and disappointment, it is amiable and virtuous, and may be
+dignified with the title of philosophy. But it is sometimes the effect
+of frivolity, or depravity—is connected with vice and dissipation, and
+highly unworthy. When proceeding from this source, it supersedes all the
+finer feelings and sentiments of the mind. It destroys the natural
+affections, and, weakening the attachment which ought to exist, between
+man and man, tends to make mere egotists of us all. It not only renders
+us insensible to our own misfortunes, and the common ills of life, but
+makes us callous to the sufferings of others, and shuts the heart
+against those feelings of sympathy and compassion, which, being founded
+in humanity, are among the highest adornments of our nature.
+
+The plodding pursuits, and sober attachments of the English, possess not
+sufficient _goût_ for the appetite of a Frenchman, whose life may be
+said to constitute one system—one continued series of intrigue. In all
+his occupations he requires the high seasoning of variety. Whatever the
+substance of his pursuit, intrigue is always the condiment. Without a
+spice of intrigue the board were insipid, however sumptuous. A Frenchman
+troubles not himself with the affections; but is a dupe to his passions.
+His attachments wear away with the moment, and are not thought of beyond
+the period of being convenient to his purpose. He is often disappointed,
+but never dismayed. All regret, for the past, he buries in some new
+scheme or adventure. If one project fails, he, instantly, flies to
+another, exclaiming, “Ah, Diable! cela ne me conviens pas. Il y faut un
+autre projet.” If he succeed not to-day, he has always a new plan for
+the morrow. If discomfited in the scheme of the morning, he feels
+certain of success in the _nouveau projet_ of the evening. Something
+new, something not of plain or ready attainment, something possessing a
+real or a fancied intricacy is always imagined, or attempted. No matter
+how vast, or how frivolous the object—whether a revolution of the state,
+or a game of loto! It diverts his attention, dissipates the moment,
+shields him from the sadness of disappointment, and shuts the door
+against ennui. From the conduct usually pursued, it would seem to be a
+leading feature, in the character of a Frenchman, not to attach himself
+seriously, or permanently to any thing; but to avail himself of all
+passing circumstances, yielding to each, or causing each to yield to his
+purpose. In this way he travels the great journey of life with less of
+care and sorrow than the more sedate of other nations; sombre reflection
+offering no impediment to a path, which, at every step, bears his loved
+motto, “Vive la bagatelle!”
+
+I am aware that you will plead very broad exceptions to this, as a
+general character, and I most readily admit them; for, notwithstanding
+that the reverse is too common, I have seen Frenchmen, under misfortune,
+whose patient submission, instead of bearing the marks of levity and
+frivolity, has exhibited all the manly firmness of true dignity and
+philosophy.
+
+But I am wandering from my subject—abruptly, therefore, Good night!
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER III.
+
+
+ Portsmouth, Oct. 23.
+
+Since writing to you my last letter we have received orders to repair on
+board the Ulysses, and proceed to Cork to join the St. Domingo division
+of the expedition, under the command of General Whyte.
+
+Dr. Master and myself had our baggage put on board this ship in the
+river Thames, and we are waiting in the daily expectation of her arrival
+at Spithead.
+
+Portsmouth verifies, to our experience, all that we had heard of its
+unpleasantness, and vulgar immorality. The great objects, which call
+forth the attention of strangers, are the dock-yard, the Haslar
+hospital, and the fine walk upon the ramparts. All these we have
+visited, likewise South-Sea castle, and the Forton and Porchester
+prisons: nor have we neglected that new modern messenger the telegraph,
+by which intelligence can be conveyed, from this place to the Admiralty,
+at Charing-cross, in the short period of ten minutes.
+
+Having thus exhausted all the novelty of the town and its environs, it
+only remains to us to lapse into the dull round of the place. It is said
+that in days of peace, long grass grows upon the streets. In time of war
+they are more trodden; but, even then, the busy activity of the place
+occurs only at intervals, such as when a fleet comes in, or is about to
+sail: at which periods the town becomes all crowd and hurry, for a few
+days, and then suddenly reverts to a languid intermission of dulness and
+inactivity.
+
+In respect to streets, houses, markets, and traffic, Portsmouth is not
+unlike other country towns, but Portsmouth-point, Portsea-common, and
+some other parts of the town have peculiarities which seem to sanction
+the celebrity the place has acquired. In some quarters, Portsmouth is
+not only filthy and crowded, but crowded with a class of low and
+abandoned beings, who seem to have declared open war against every habit
+of decency and decorum. The riotous, drunken, and immoral scenes of this
+place exceed, perhaps, all others. Commonly gross obscenity and
+intoxication preserve enough of diffidence to seek the concealment of
+night, and, assuming a kind of decency, strive to hide themselves from
+the public eye: but, here, hordes of profligate females are seen reeling
+in drunkenness, or plying upon the streets with shocking immodesty in
+open day. These daughters of Cypria are not only of manners peculiar,
+but likewise of such peculiar figure and apparel, that it were
+difficult, in any other part of England, to find a correct resemblance
+of them.
+
+To form to yourself an idea of these _tender ornaments_ of the fair-sex,
+imagine a being of more than Amazonian stature, having a crimson
+countenance, emblazoned with all the effrontery of Cyprian confidence,
+and broad Bacchanalian folly; give to her bold visage the warlike
+features of two wounded cheeks, a tumid nose, scarred and battered
+brows, and a pair of blackened eyes, with deeply reddened balls; then
+add to her sides a pair of brawny arms, fit to encounter a Colossus, and
+set her upon two ancles like the fixed supporters of a gate: by way of
+apparel, put upon her a loose flying cap, a man’s black hat, a torn
+neckerchief, stone rings on her fingers, and a dirty white, or tawdry
+flowered gown, with short apron, and a pink petticoat: thus, will you
+have something very like the figure of “_Sweet Poll_ of Portsmouth.”
+
+My visit to the dock-yard was of a nature highly gratifying. I
+contemplated this vast depôt of stores; this great workshop of our navy,
+as the emblem of our nation’s glory. I regarded each spot with all the
+enthusiastic veneration of a Briton, proud of his country’s greatness,
+and of the splendid and heroic achievements of its defenders.
+
+The Tigre, ship of war, lately taken from the French, by Lord Bridport,
+being in dock, we had the opportunity of going on board, to witness the
+injuries she had sustained from the thunderbolts of Britain. Her
+shattered condition bespake, in strong expression, the terrible effects
+of a close-fought action at sea. Yet we were told that all she had
+suffered was trivial, compared to what is seen, in many vessels, after a
+battle. If so, it is equally matter of surprise that such vessels should
+be kept afloat, as that any should ever have been constructed capable of
+withstanding the destructive batteries now brought against them.
+
+While examining the many wounds of the Tigre, my mind called up, in
+vivid association, the late noble retreat made by our gallant admiral
+Cornwallis, which I have always thought did him singular credit.
+Conducted as it was, it had all the merit of a great victory, and I well
+remember that, at the first moment of perusing the dispatches concerning
+it, I was impressed with a high sense of that officer’s judgment, and
+his valour, and felt that I should ever retain the highest respect for
+his professional talents. To have defended an inferior fleet, against
+such unequal force, and to have brought every ship safe into port,
+argues a degree of intrepid deliberation, of address, and of steady
+valour, which can only be found in a great commander. To have brought in
+the fast-sailing vessels of the squadron would have been meritorious:
+but to have dropped astern, with these, and caused them to bear the
+blows, in protection of the slower vessels, whilst they made the best of
+the wind; and, thus, to have saved the whole, was doubly honorable. It
+was great and bold, and worthy the brother of our brave and
+long-esteemed Marquis, whose high and well-appreciated talents are so
+universally acknowledged, and so increased in splendour, by the humanity
+and benevolence of his nature. That two such distinguished commanders,
+in the different branches of our service, should be found in the same
+family, is no less honorable to themselves than gratifying to their
+country. Of such men England has just cause to be proud.
+
+My visit to Haslar hospital was in keeping with that to the dock-yard.
+Connected with our country’s greatness, it called up a similar train of
+ideas, and I felt it an honor to England that so noble an institution
+should offer, to our brave tars, the comforts required in sickness. Too
+much cannot be done for our navy, nor can the provision for our sick and
+wounded defenders be too liberal: they merit all their country can
+bestow. It has long been said, and with great correctness, that British
+sailors are not only a bold, but a peculiar race of beings. The fact is
+striking, and although it were extremely difficult to describe their
+extraordinary character, yet may it be given in one short sentence,
+for—_they are a race of heroes_! Of fear they know only the name.
+Nothing so delights them as to be led into close combat; and, rather
+than be vanquished, they would submit to die at their guns. That such
+men should be liberally accommodated in their sufferings, must be
+congenial to the warmest wishes of every Briton; and to know that they
+are so, is consolatory to the feelings of all who are sensible of their
+value. It is due to their courage and bravery, and is demanded from
+their country’s gratitude.
+
+The Haslar is, admirably, calculated for this important purpose. The
+establishment is liberal and splendid, and well worthy its object. In
+providing so amply for her brave and suffering defenders, England
+consults her best interests, whilst she proves herself to be mindful of
+the high duties of humanity.
+
+The hospital, like many others of this island, might, from the grandeur
+of the edifice, be mistaken for a palace. It is built in an open airy
+situation near the sea, at a short distance from Gosport. The sick are
+brought in boats, from the ships at Spithead, and, conveniently,
+received on shore at a landing-place at the hospital. This great
+building, fitted for the accommodation of two thousand patients,
+together with houses for officers and the medical attendants, a chapel,
+a laboratory, a variety of offices, and thirty-eight acres of good
+pasture land, belonging to the institution, is enclosed within a high
+brick wall, with iron gates, and a porter’s lodge at the entrance, which
+no stranger is permitted to pass, without the leave of one of the
+resident lieutenants; or the porter first announcing his name to some
+officer of the establishment.
+
+Much to the credit of the country, this noble asylum offers apartments,
+likewise, for sick and wounded officers, where those who from
+convenience, or necessity, wish to avail themselves of the benefit of
+the institution, may find every aid and comfort their situation demands.
+
+Nothing necessary to the establishment has been omitted. It is a
+distinct building, separated from all others, and, from possessing every
+essential within itself, is as complete as it is liberal, and does honor
+to the reign of George II. who has the merit of being its founder.
+
+The establishment consists of a governor, (usually an old navy captain)
+three lieutenants, three physicians, three surgeons, two visiting
+apothecaries, a chaplain, an agent, a steward, and a dispenser, with
+assistants and servants in proportion to the number of sick. The
+hospital accommodates one thousand eight hundred patients, conveniently,
+but it sometimes happens that it receives as many as two thousand. This
+important establishment was founded in the year 1746, but was ten years
+before it was completed, the patients not being admitted until the year
+1756. The expenditure, as may be expected, from the nature of the
+institution, differs very widely in different years, varying from
+10,000_l._ to upwards of 30,000_l._ per annum.
+
+But great and liberal as the relief is which is held out, to the sick,
+we are not to contemplate this splendid institution, in the limited view
+of a mere asylum for those who are, immediately, suffering. Its object
+is far more extensive: it may be said to be the depôt—the great and
+general receptacle of maritime sickness, and the best guardian of our
+navy; for it not only offers a home to the sick, but holds out the means
+of keeping disease and infection from our fleets. Every ship lying in
+harbour, or upon going out to sea, has the privilege of sending any of
+the sailors who may chance to be ill, to the Haslar; a regulation
+founded in wisdom, and fraught with great and manifold advantages; for,
+not only are the sick more speedily recovered, but, by this excellent
+arrangement, every ship is made free from disease, and contagion is
+prevented; or, if it should already exist, is kept from spreading
+through the vessel, or extending its direful effects to the fleet.
+Hence, from the extensive accommodation of this admirable institution,
+and from the strict rules of cleanliness and ventilation, which are now
+observed on board the ships, all apprehension is removed of great and
+general sickness in the navy.
+
+I mentioned the ramparts as another object of our attention. These form
+an agreeable relief to the general heaviness of the town, by affording a
+lively and extensive view of the environs, including the sea, the Isle
+of Wight, and the Southampton river, with the fleets at Spithead and St.
+Helens.
+
+The fortifications of Portsmouth have been, lately, extended to the part
+called Portsea, by which they have assumed a more formidable aspect; and
+although they are, even yet, more calculated to guard against a
+surprise, than to withstand the regular attack of a besieging army,
+still, from its fosses, its bastions, and its angles, this place wears
+more the appearance of a regularly fortified town, than any other of our
+island. But, happily for England, she has been fortified by a greater
+master than Vauban, Cohorn, or any other engineer of modern or ancient
+celebrity. The trident of _old Neptune_ has dug a deep fosse around her,
+which Britons, of the present day, know how to guard, as their best
+defence.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER IV.
+
+
+ Portsmouth, October 31.
+
+Still at Portsmouth, and the Ulysses not yet come round from the Thames!
+
+Some troops were embarked on the 27th inst. from this place. The weather
+was rough and unfavorable. Such indeed has it, constantly, been, since
+our arrival—always stormy, and, at times, tempestuous. From this state
+of the weather we have had the opportunity of seeing this great maritime
+port to much advantage; a degree of grandeur being added to the scenery,
+which, in a more tranquil season, would not have existed. The general
+movement and activity have been, necessarily, increased; we have heard
+the deep roaring of the billows, and have listened to the howling of the
+wind, and the beating of the storm among the shipping; the troubled
+waves have dashed, in heavy seas, upon the land, or broken with
+violence, against the rampart-walls; boats and ships have been set
+adrift, others have been forced from their anchors and cast on shore;
+and that degree of the grand and terrific, necessary to the sublime, has
+strongly prevailed.
+
+You expected probably, that my next letter would be addressed to you
+from Cork, and will be surprised to find that I am yet remaining here;
+but this is among the numberless uncertainties of my present calling.
+
+On the 29th instant it blew a perfect hurricane; like what we read of
+as, sometimes, happening in other regions, but unlike all that we are
+accustomed to witness in England.
+
+The houses were shaken, to a dangerous degree, by the excessive force of
+the tempest. The loud ocean rolled, and broke, in tremendous mountains,
+on the shore. Many of the ships were driven from their anchors; some
+were dismasted; others cast away; and boats, set loose by the storm,
+were swallowed up by the troubled waters, and afterwards returned, by
+the expelling throes of the sea, upon dry land.
+
+The hollow sound of the wind, and the heavy beatings of the hail and
+rain, through the thick forest of shipping lying in the harbour,
+together with the frightful dashings of the sea, and the violent motion
+of the vessels, upon its restless surface, all combined to render the
+scene greatly awful; but too high a degree of the terrific was
+intermixed with it, for the spectator to regard its grandeur and
+sublimity in quiet contemplation. To convey any just idea of it would
+require the pen of a Milton, or a Shakespeare.
+
+Great and general alarm prevailed, especially among the lower orders of
+people; in whose minds a fearful association was excited, which carried
+them, infinitely, beyond the probable injuries to be expected. They ran
+into the remotest corners of their houses, fearing that some dreadful
+visitation of the Almighty was upon them, and that He, in his wrath, was
+about to punish their sins, by the destruction of the town, and its
+wicked inhabitants. Nothing was heard but the howlings of the tempest.
+In all other respects a dreary stillness reigned. No living thing was
+seen upon the streets; and all around seemed hushed in the silent pause
+of consternation.
+
+When the violence of the storm had a little abated, and the rays of
+light began to issue through the broken clouds, the trembling multitude
+ventured forth, and, assembling in groups at the door-ways, relieved
+their apprehensions by relating them to each other, in the restored
+comfort of mutual intercourse. At this moment I could not but remark the
+striking effect of the social principle, that great and leading feature
+of our nature. If these people had remained alone, shut up in their
+hiding-places, their sense of alarm would have probably continued much
+longer; but they derived manifest relief from communicating with each
+other; and the very act of relating their fears insensibly dispelled
+them.
+
+The injuries done were less than might have been expected. Some of the
+ships and boats necessarily suffered; a few houses were unroofed; and,
+amidst the devastation, the windmill, at Gosport, was blown to the
+ground. It was, at first, said that many lives were lost; but, happily,
+we do not find this report confirmed.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER V.
+
+
+ Portsmouth, Nov. 8, 1795.
+
+Out of evil, it is said, sometimes springeth good: and I feel assured
+that you will agree with me, in considering the adage verified, when I
+tell you, that the repeated delays to which we have been subjected have
+proved the means of completing our party, by converting our harmonious
+trio into a still more social quartette: a circumstance which has
+happened from our having the company of Dr. Cleghorn, who is now
+arrived, at this place, on his way to join the St. Domingo hospital
+staff. He is a pleasant, well-informed man, brother to the professor of
+anatomy in the University of Dublin, and nephew to the celebrated author
+on the diseases of Minorca. His society is a great acquisition to us,
+and we are much gratified in having such an agreeable addition to our
+party. We now look, more anxiously than ever, to the arrival of the
+Ulysses, in the hope of being allowed to establish a friendly mess for
+the voyage.
+
+With our newly arrived comrade we have repeated our visits to the
+dock-yard, the Haslar hospital, and the Forton prison.
+
+At the prison we met with a striking example of the great vicissitudes
+to which persons are liable, who are exposed to the hazardous chances of
+war. Observing among the prisoners, an officer who had lost his right
+arm, we were led to ask some questions respecting him, when we learned
+that he was the very lieutenant who took possession of our ship of war
+the Alexander, at the time she fell into the hands of the French; and
+that he had, afterwards, been taken in one of the ships captured by Lord
+Bridport’s fleet, and had lost his arm in the action. Thus the man, who,
+but a short time ago, rejoiced in victory, is now humbled by defeat, and
+has the sad mortification of being confined a prisoner, with the loss of
+a most important limb, and the melancholy prospect of being a cripple
+throughout the remainder of his life.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER VI.
+
+
+ Spithead, Nov. 12.
+
+Greetings from the Ulysses! Our suspense is, at length, relieved. The
+day after I last wrote to you, our long-looked-for Ulysses arrived, with
+a fleet from the Downs, and yesterday, Doctors Henderson, Master,
+Cleghorn, and myself, took our births on board, finding Master’s and my
+baggage stowed in safety.
+
+We left Portsmouth amidst a great scene of hurry and confusion, in
+consequence of a report having prevailed, on the arrival of the fleet
+from the Downs, that every ship, belonging to the expedition, was to
+sail, without further delay; those of the Leeward Island division for
+Barbadoes, and those of the St. Domingo division for Cork. The
+transports, with troops from Southampton, happening to drop down the
+river at the same time, to rendezvous at the Mother-bank and Spithead,
+seemed to confirm the report; and suddenly, all was converted into
+extreme hurry and activity. Multitudes, both from the newly arrived
+ships, and from those which had been long waiting, thronged on shore to
+purchase provisions and stores, to complete their stock for the voyage.
+Many, who had passed their hours of suspense in the town, had also their
+marketings to make; and hence the demand becoming, suddenly, greater
+than the supply, it introduced all the confusion of a general scramble.
+Each seized upon whatever provisions he could find, asking no questions,
+but paying any money that was demanded.
+
+Not aware of the tumultuous pressure of such a moment, and considering
+ours to be only a short passage, we had, purposely, delayed purchasing
+our meat, bread, and other fresh provisions, until we should be certain
+that the ship, in which we were to make the voyage, was arrived. But,
+should we proceed to sea, immediately, and the voyage be at all
+protracted, we shall be reduced, by this neglect, to salt food, and the
+ship’s allowance; for, we were unable to obtain what we wished, and were
+compelled to repair on board with a very deficient supply.
+
+All the butchers’ and bakers’ shops were quickly emptied. Not a loaf,
+nor a bit of meat, not even a carrot, or a cabbage remained, and many
+went empty away. Neither porters nor servants were required; every one
+who was successful enough to put his hand upon any provisions, gladly
+became the bearer of his own load. To shew you the extremity to which we
+were reduced, I may tell you that our party stopped a man, upon the
+street, who was carrying home a large giblet pie, hot from the oven,
+which we tempted him to let us take on board, by offering for the pie
+and the dish, more than double their value; or whatever money he might
+demand.
+
+To an unconcerned spectator it must have been a most ludicrous and
+diverting scene, and such as might have afforded full scope to the
+all-animating pencil of Hogarth. We were too intimately associated in
+what was passing, to view it only with an eye of amusement. Still I
+could not but remark the oddity of the assemblage, and the varied
+expression of countenance, as actuated by hope, joy, disappointment,
+hurry, and anxiety. Military and naval officers, passengers, servants,
+soldiers, sailors, boys, women, and negroes, all crowded together upon
+the streets, formed one heterogeneous mass—one great and motley group,
+of which every part was in busy motion; each person feeling the
+apprehension of being left behind.
+
+From the multitudes of anxious heavy-laden individuals who were seen
+running with their burdens down to the boats, and scrambling to embark,
+it might have appeared to a stranger, that the inhabitants of Portsmouth
+were making one great effort to carry off all the provisions, stores,
+and furniture of the town, before evacuating it to the possession of an
+enemy. One hurried off with legs and shoulders of mutton, another with
+half a sheep, a third with a huge piece of beef, and others with
+different joints of veal or pork. Here was a man running with a cheese,
+there one with a sugar-loaf. Others were scampering away loaded with
+rice, or papers of groceries. Some ran off with bags of bread, some with
+baskets of greens, potatoes, carrots, turnips, and the like. Many were
+seen bending under heavy bundles of clothes, wet from the wash; others
+loaded with camp-stools, deal boxes, sea-coffers, pewter utensils, and
+various other kinds of stores; and, amidst the throng, ourselves with
+the smoking giblet pie, and such other provisions as we had been able to
+procure. Every one was upon the alert. Necessity made all industrious,
+and, without any idle or scrupulous objections, each was glad to
+minister to his own wants.
+
+Such was the state in which we left Portsmouth, after a residence of
+three weeks, during which time we had regarded it as a dull inanimate
+place; but the change was sudden, and will be only transient: the hurry
+and tumult will vanish with the sailing of the fleet, and the town will
+relapse into its tranquil sameness, until the recurrence of a similar
+occasion.
+
+Let me return with you to the Ulysses, and tell you, that upon reaching
+the ship, we had so anxiously looked for, we were received as people
+unknown and unregarded, conducted into a large ward-room, strewed with
+various kinds of lumber, and there left, as in a wilderness. No births
+had been prepared, nor any kind of arrangement made for us. Not a cot
+was slung; nor any sleeping-place allotted. The ward-room was open to
+all, and was to serve for the whole of the passengers. We were turned in
+loose, with six or eight other persons, and soon found ourselves to be,
+only, individuals of the general herd; the whole flock being left, at
+large, like sheep in a common fold.
+
+The vessel is commanded by an officer of the navy, and it was no part of
+his duty to prepare accommodations for passengers whom he neither knew
+nor expected. She is one of the old forty-four gun frigates, and carries
+some of her guns as an armed transport. If our ship had been a common
+transport, or a merchantman, we might have felt enough at home to have
+demanded all we required, but, from not having been passengers before on
+board a ship of war, Cleghorn, Master, and myself were quite at a loss
+how to proceed. Fortunately Henderson is more _au fait_ to these
+subjects, and from understanding the necessary etiquette, kindly took
+upon himself the task of meliorating our condition. Having applied, with
+all due ceremony, to the Governor of our ocean-castle, he soon succeeded
+in bringing one of the lieutenants to our aid; who, very obligingly,
+gave immediate directions for bettering our situation, and it was
+gratifying, beyond all the advantages of personal convenience, to
+observe with what promptitude his orders were put in execution. The
+packages, and other incommoding lumber, were quickly removed; and a
+canvass partition was put up to divide the ward-room into two separate
+apartments; allotting to us that on the starboard side. Four cots were
+slung, in a row, over the cannon, and inclosed with another canvass
+running parallel with the former, throughout the whole length of the
+ward-room. This formed a general sleeping birth for our mess, allowing
+to each his appropriate dressing-room between the several guns; and,
+thus, we were speedily furnished with five distinct apartments, viz. a
+long narrow dining-room, and, as we were assured, four _excellent_
+bed-rooms.
+
+We were both amused and gratified in observing the expertness of the
+ship’s carpenters, and all the men employed upon this occasion; and it
+afforded us great pleasure to remark how prompt and obedient they were
+in executing the commands of their officers. On board a transport, or a
+merchantman, several days would have been expended, in preparing what
+was here completed in a single hour.
+
+As we are only fresh-water sailors, it was hinted, for our information,
+that the aft, or sternmost cot, being the upper birth on the starboard
+side, was deemed the place of honor, and hence appropriated to the use
+of the captain, when the officers sleep in the ward-room. My ambition
+did not lead me to contend for this sickening post of honor, therefore,
+in obedience to my poor nauseated stomach, I begged permission to take
+the lowest cot of the four, and am accordingly indulged with the birth
+nearest the centre of the ship, where I lie with my three comrades, in a
+row, behind me. In balance for this accommodation I find that at each
+movement of the ship, or the cot, my feet are struck against the
+bulk-head at the bottom of the ward-room; I am bumped upon the huge
+cannon standing under me; or have Dr. Cleghorn’s feet roughly presented
+to my head.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER VII.
+
+
+ H. M. S. Ulysses, Nov. 15.
+
+The long-expected day is at length arrived: the signal of departure
+being given, all the ships of the Leeward Island division weighed anchor
+this morning, and put to sea under a most favorable breeze. The Ulysses
+being left to wait the sailing of the convoy for Cork, we remained
+spectators, and had every opportunity of enjoying the splendid and
+animating scene. The day was fine, and the wind steady. On passing
+round, or, to use the sailors’ term, doubling the point of the Isle of
+Wight, all the ships appeared to fall into regular succession, forming a
+line of seemingly endless extent, each elevating her sails, into view,
+over the territory of the island, as if they were contending which
+should be longest seen.
+
+It was a pleasing spectacle to every beholder, and those who felt as
+Englishmen ought, derived, from it, sensations peculiarly grateful. To
+witness such a fleet steering from our little island, into the broad
+ocean, to fight our battles in a far distant country, conveyed ideas of
+greatness and power, which were calculated to raise a just ambition in
+every British bosom. The ships of war and transports exceeded two
+hundred sail. The immense ship, the Commerce de Marseilles, captured at
+Toulon, is at the head of the convoy, with the admiral, the commander in
+chief of the army, and nearly a thousand troops on board. It is,
+currently, reported here that the whole of these, together with the Cork
+division, are to rendezvous at Barbadoes, and, making that the grand
+depôt, proceed, from thence, to the attack of various colonies.
+
+For a long time past this vast armament has been expected in the West
+Indies, and during many tedious weeks has England, almost daily, looked
+for its departure; but to prepare, and set afloat such a fleet, and such
+an army, is an undertaking far more difficult than those superficial
+observers, who are ignorant of the service, are willing to imagine. If
+it meet with fair winds, and proceed without disaster, or unforeseen
+delay, it may yet arrive at a good season, and in time, perhaps, to
+effect all its intended operations.
+
+We were, yesterday, regaled with the loud treat of hearing the ship’s
+cannon fired, whilst we were on board. Every thing was cleared away, as
+if preparing for action: all the doors and windows were set open, and
+every precaution used, to prevent injury or accident. We remained in the
+ward-room during the time of firing the guns in that part of the ship,
+and endeavoured to be strictly attentive to the effect. It was not
+unlike a violent stroke of electricity: and, for a moment, we felt
+stunned with the shock. The jarring concussion conveyed the sensation of
+the whole ship having shivered asunder, or suddenly burst into atoms;
+and it seemed a subject of surprize that the ears of the sailors should,
+ever, become capable of supporting the successive and violent explosions
+of a hostile engagement. Notwithstanding the precaution of letting down
+the windows, those of the quarter gallery were shattered to pieces.
+
+As we are to wait for other ships, we may now find an opportunity of
+adding to the scanty stock of provisions, which we procured amidst the
+general scramble of embarkation: we hope, also, that our vessel will
+have time to take in a fresh supply of water; for we have, hitherto,
+suffered, very severely, from not having any on board but what has been
+putrid and offensive; and coming to this directly from the shore, has
+rendered it far worse than if we had been, gradually, compelled to
+submit to it, after being a long time at sea. To myself, in particular,
+this is a weighty misfortune, as I have not the common resource of
+flying to wine and beer, as a relief. We have taken to our aid, both
+purifiers and filtering stones; and, we are further assured of having
+our present sufferings compensated upon the passage; for the Thames
+water, now so offensive, will soon restore itself, and, becoming settled
+and depurated, will be clear and sweet as we can desire.
+
+With regard to our eating, likewise, ’tis well we are not of the
+Epicurean school. The many disagreeable smells, and the heaving motion
+of the ship, have much impaired our appetites; and, if we were
+over-dainty, we must, literally, starve; for our governor of the galley
+happens to be fit only to cook for the stomachs of Neptune’s hardiest
+sons.
+
+As soon as the other vessels shall be ready, the Ulysses, we are told,
+is to proceed with them to Cowes harbour, to join the St. Domingo
+division. It is probable, therefore, that my next letter may be
+addressed to you from Ireland.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER VIII.
+
+
+ Spithead, Nov. 19.
+
+When, in my last, I mentioned to you the splendid sight we had
+witnessed, in the departure of an important division of our great
+expedition, I did not anticipate the painful reverse of, thus soon,
+communicating the unhappy tidings of its return. Pleased as we were at
+the sailing of this grand fleet, only a few days since; now, we should
+rejoice, still more, could we see every ship again safe in harbour.
+
+Yesterday we experienced a most tremendous gale, which, from its
+disastrous effects among the shipping at Spithead, led to very painful
+apprehensions concerning the fleet which had so lately gone to sea. The
+wind having shifted to an unfavorable point, and blowing with great
+violence, it was manifest that the convoy could not proceed; and too
+evident, that many of the ships must be damaged or lost; and I am sorry
+to add that we are, already, witnessing the melancholy confirmation of
+our fears; for the fleet not having cleared the channel, was unable to
+weather the storm, and, during the whole of this day, different ships
+have been dropping in at St. Helens, in a sadly disabled state, bringing
+still worse tidings of those left behind. A storm so violent and
+destructive has seldom been known in this climate; indeed, many who had
+been in the West Indies, remarked, that it was scarcely inferior to a
+tropical hurricane. Even the admiral’s ship was in extreme peril, and,
+with great difficulty, was supported through the gale. She is now
+brought back in a much injured condition, being very leaky, and having a
+considerable depth of water in the hold. So alarming was her situation,
+during the tempest, that if the boisterous elements had raged only a
+little longer, she would have, probably, gone to the bottom, with the
+general, the admiral, and nearly two thousand souls on board.
+
+Multitudes are known to be lost; but the full extent of this sad
+disaster cannot yet be ascertained, for crippled ships still continue to
+arrive: it is hoped therefore that some may appear which report leads us
+not to expect. Among those most despaired of is the Stanley, with some
+hundreds of troops on board. Of this ship not the slightest intelligence
+can be learned, from any one yet returned. She is supposed to have gone
+to the bottom, and all hands to have perished! What a sad and melancholy
+change! This vast fleet, which had cost so much time, and toil in its
+equipment; and which, so lately, spread its sails under the fairest
+prospects, is already defeated, disabled, and brought to ruin! What a
+striking proof of the weakness of human foresight; and of the
+uncertainty of all our wisest calculations!
+
+Signals of distress were heard on all quarters. Pieces of masts,
+cordage, and planks floated by the sides of the Ulysses: all was hurry
+and alarm around us. Many vessels lying near to us were injured; some,
+driven from their anchors, drifted on board other ships, or were cast on
+shore, and, being wrecked, remained, before our eyes, fearful examples
+of the greater evils to be apprehended from the storm.
+
+Such was the perilous insecurity even of the Ulysses, that although, to
+use the sea-term, we had _struck our topmasts, and made all snug_, it
+was deemed expedient to prepare the guns, for the purpose of firing
+signals of distress.
+
+I was excessively ill; and from the deep rolling, heavy tossings, and
+the many troubled motions of the ship, was quite unable to support
+myself upon my legs. Staggering and stumbling I crawled out of the
+ward-room to the middle of the half-deck, to seek a more central part of
+the vessel; and, there, clinging to some firm hold, remained, sick and
+comfortless, to wear out a most distressful day. Afflicted with
+head-ach, a nauseated stomach, and enfeebled limbs, my contemplations
+were not of the most consolatory nature. I saw all the evils that were
+to befal our fleet under their most gloomy colours. I beheld the convoy
+dispersed; ships struggling in the gale; my fellow-creatures sinking;
+and the whole expedition discomfited: the mind sympathizing with the
+sickened frame, all was pictured as one grand scene of destruction.
+
+In the midst of our danger, I could not but notice the strange remarks,
+and quaint jokes which passed among the sailors, who were, variously,
+actuated by feelings of indolence, anxiety, or indifference. One of them
+being called upon deck, and desired to go aloft, to do something that
+was expedient at the top of the mast, idly crawled up, from below,
+muttering, “I’d rather be drowned in the sea, dammee, than at the mast
+head!” another, observing a passenger in a severe fit of vomiting,
+exclaimed, “Dammee, he’s only sick for want o’grog;” and a third, as if
+responsive to the other, called out, “Stiff breeze, Jack. He’ll be worse
+yet! Steward! why don’t you give the gentleman some fat pork——to settle
+his stomach?”
+
+About five o’clock in the evening the storm began to abate; when
+torrents of rain lessened the wind, and brought the sailors a respite
+from the harassing, and perilous duties of the day.
+
+We were on shore this morning at Portsmouth, and, from the ramparts, saw
+the ships of the returning fleet assembled in forest crowd at St.
+Helens. From thence, also, we had a more ample demonstration of the
+effects which the storm had produced immediately around us; and I am
+sorry to tell you that we find the injury more extensive than we at
+first imagined.
+
+We have had a pleasant ramble, since I last wrote to you, to the Isle of
+Wight, in search of eggs, poultry, and pigs to add to our sea store.
+
+It is, again, rumoured that we are to avail ourselves of the first hour
+of a fair wind to proceed to Cork, without waiting for any other vessel;
+and we are all of accord in wishing that this may prove correct, for our
+present state of suspense is growing sadly wearisome and vexatious.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER IX.
+
+
+ H. M. S. Ulysses, Nov. 30.
+
+The uncertainty of the law has established itself into an adage: but I
+begin to suspect that, proverbial as it is, it must yield to the greater
+incertitude of military service. In my last letter I mentioned to you
+that we were to proceed to Cove the moment the wind was fair, and, in
+this idea, we had written to our friends desiring them not to address
+us, again, at Spithead; but to send their letters to Ireland, that they
+might meet us at Cork. Now, we find that our destination is again
+changed, and within the few last days, it has been so rapidly altered
+and confirmed, fixed, reversed, and varied, that we are totally at a
+loss on what assurance to depend.
+
+At present it is reported that three forty-four gun ships, viz. the
+Ulysses, the Experiment, and the Charon, are to take in the troops,
+which were in such extreme peril, during the gale, on board the vast and
+unwieldy Commerce de Marseilles, and to run out with them, as speedily
+as possible, to the West Indies.
+
+Consistent with this arrangement, vessels came alongside the Ulysses
+early on the morning of the 26th instant, for the purpose of removing
+the St. Domingo stores; and the hospital packages, which were stowed in
+this ship, are now distributed into two or three vessels; which is an
+improvement, gained by the change, for should either of these ships
+chance to be lost, captured, or delayed, still a proportion of the
+stores may safely arrive in the others. Further advantages may also
+derive from the distribution, as an assortment will be more conveniently
+at hand for any case of emergency; such as immediate or unexpected
+service, detachments, or supplying particular islands or colonies.
+
+It were difficult to acknowledge similar advantages from the separation
+of our happy and social mess, although we are, likewise, obliged to
+divide our stores, and mess-apparatus, being now instructed to make the
+voyage in different ships. This is matter of high regret to us all, and
+the more so, as we had been long enough together to become well
+acquainted, and happy in each other’s society, besides having jointly
+provided ourselves for the voyage.
+
+We have received orders to repair, two of us to the George and Bridget,
+and two to the Lord Sheffield: Dr. Master and myself feel ourselves
+fortunate in being appointed to the latter, for we had visited the
+George and Bridget, and had not acquired any predilection in her favor.
+The Lord Sheffield we have not yet seen, but her captain tells us that
+she is a fast-sailing ship, and fitted up in a superior style, with her
+cabin “neat, light, and lively as a drawing-room.” We do not give
+implicit confidence to the report of one so strongly interested in
+speaking her fair: but the probabilities are much in her favor, she
+being a West India trader, and, no doubt, better fitted for passengers,
+and better adapted, in all respects, for a tropical climate. The George
+and Bridget is a large Baltic timber ship, and, of course, has not had
+the same occasion either for conveying or accommodating passengers.
+
+We have met with many of the officers at Portsmouth who were out, in the
+fleet, during the late destructive gale. Their accounts are afflicting
+beyond all the suggestions even of fearful anticipation. Deducting in
+due allowance for the augmented terrors of young and fresh-water
+sailors, still the whole scene, and its result have been most painfully
+disastrous; for, melancholy to repeat! multitudes of souls have
+perished; and six or seven vessels have not been heard of since the
+storm.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER X.
+
+
+ Mother-bank, Dec. 3, 1795.
+
+My late letter to you, from Portsmouth, had nearly been a last address.
+In my passage from thence to the Lord Sheffield, at the Mother-bank, I
+was exposed to such imminent peril as to have had scarcely a hope of
+escape. The necessary arrangements being made for occupying our new
+births, I left Portsmouth in a small four-oared boat, belonging to the
+Lord Sheffield, accompanied by Mr. Jaffray (the master of the ship) and
+Mr. M‘Lean, of the hospital department. On our way to the Mother-bank,
+we were suddenly overtaken by a violent, and, situated as we were, most
+perilous storm. The sky blackened; the tearing winds roared; and the
+tumid sea, gathering into frightful mountains, rushed before the wind in
+boisterous loudness, threatening us with instant destruction. Tossed
+from wave to wave, and dashed and rolled about, amidst the broken
+mountains of water, every moment seemed likely to be our last: for any
+one of the heavy seas might have upset our little bark, or have broken
+over us, and sent us to the bottom. Begirt with multitudes of rugged and
+liquid hills, rupturing on all quarters, and rolling and tumbling one
+over another towards her, so small a boat seemed to have no chance of
+maintaining herself upon the rude and ever changing surface. From the
+deep swelling of the sea, together with the constant agitation and
+breaking of the waves, the sailors could not take sufficient depth to
+pull steadily with their oars; nor could the boat be made to obey the
+helm. At one moment we were raised, as it were, on a pinnacle—at the
+next ingulfed in deep shade between two roaring surges, towering high
+above us, and seeming to say, “Ye shall never rise again.” Yet, quickly,
+we were lifted upon a new-formed summit, and as suddenly dashed again
+into the vale of still more rugged billows, each contending in hasty
+strife, which should be the messenger of our fate.
+
+The captain, with a countenance strongly expressive of anxiety, begged
+of us _not to speak_, lest we should divert his attention from the helm:
+upon the management of which our safety very much depended. Sitting at
+his elbow, in profound silence, as he desired, I watched his features as
+the barometer of my hopes and fears, and you will believe that I felt
+not quite at ease, upon observing him betray manifest symptoms of alarm.
+To move was even worse than to speak, and might be instant destruction
+to us all; hence it only remained to us to sit in solemn stillness, and
+meet our destiny.
+
+To reach the Lord Sheffield was absolutely impossible; for the wind was
+contrary, and the tide in concert with the storm, to prevent it: and to
+return to Portsmouth was, scarcely, less difficult, or less perilous,
+from the inability of our little boat to resist the enormous following
+waves, impelled by the joint force of the gale and the tide.
+
+In this critical dilemma it was decided that we should steer for the
+nearest ship there was any hope of our being able _to fetch_; and the
+captain, encouraging the sailors to continue at their oars, and bear
+away to leeward, directed the helm accordingly. In this attempt we
+struggled on, often washed with the heavy sprays, and as frequently
+almost upset by the tearing gusts of wind. But perseverance, together
+with great dexterity in the management of the boat, at length, succeeded
+in bringing us alongside the Diana frigate, where we were kindly
+received, and even cherished as friends rescued from the devouring deep.
+
+Having witnessed the danger to which we had been exposed, the officers,
+in the most liberal manner, welcomed us on board, and refusing to hear a
+word of apology, insisted upon our not attempting to depart until every
+appearance of the gale should have subsided. Indeed they gave orders
+that our boat should be hoisted on board, and desired that we would
+think only of making ourselves comfortable for the night. In this they
+were imperative, nor will you imagine that our obedience was reluctant.
+
+The Diana was under the command of Lieutenant Davy, in the absence of
+Captain Faulkener. This gentleman gave directions for our receiving
+every accommodation the ship could afford, and tendered his services in
+a manner that made it grateful to accept the kindness bestowed. Every
+individual seemed to emulate the commanding officer in friendly
+attentions towards our party, insomuch that we had cause to rejoice in
+the peril which had driven us among them.
+
+As soon as we were made dry, and enabled to feel a little like
+ourselves, we were invited to the dinner-table of the mess. It was
+spread with plenty, and we partook with Mr. Davy, and the whole party of
+officers, who vied with each other in kind hospitality towards the
+rescued strangers. Good humour prevailed; the conversation was
+agreeable; and the bottle passed freely until evening, when a party was
+formed to a rubber at whist, and, at night, we were conducted to some of
+the best births of the ship.
+
+We were pleased to hear every person, with whom we conversed, speak of
+lieutenant Davy in the highest terms of praise. He was entitled to our
+best wishes, and we owed him much respect and gratitude: we were
+exceedingly happy, therefore, to learn that he had equally the esteem of
+his captain, his messmates, and the sailors. As a companion, he is
+amiable and engaging. His address is easy; his manners are accomplished;
+and, independent of his great kindness to us, in the hour of peril, his
+general conduct, and the handsome report of his brother officers, could
+not but call forth our regard.
+
+We passed the night in rest and comfort. In the morning the weather was
+settled and fine; therefore, after taking breakfast, our boat was
+lowered down, and we made the best of our way to the Lord Sheffield,
+reluctantly quitting the hospitable party, with whom misfortune had
+brought us acquainted.
+
+Without further interruption we reached the Mother-bank, and I have now
+the pleasure to address you, in safety, from the Lord Sheffield, a very
+fine West India ship, and as superior to the gloomy George and Bridget,
+as her captain had represented. She is thoroughly clean, has a general
+air of neatness, and seems likely to verify the commander’s report of
+her sailing. She is conveniently adapted for passengers, and is
+expressly calculated for the West Indies, having awnings, scuttles,
+port-holes and all the necessary accommodations for the climate. The
+cabin is commodious, and is fitted up with mahogany wainscot, pier
+glasses, chairs, sofa, &c. due regard being paid to taste and ornament.
+
+We have several guns on board, and wear the appearance of being well
+armed; but the ship is not sufficiently manned to defend herself against
+a regular attack, and this is what we have most to lament in our change
+from the Ulysses, for in other respects our situation is improved.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XI.
+
+
+ Lord Sheffield, Dec. 8.
+
+Again I have been unsettled, and moving about from place to place,
+making my home sometimes on board, sometimes on shore. On examining my
+baggage, soon after I joined the Lord Sheffield, I perceived that one of
+my boxes was missing; and it has cost me a long, and a very sickly
+round, to recover it. In following the Ulysses, which had changed her
+birth, we were brought into an open and heavy-swelling sea, the motion
+of which made me very unwell, and led me to contemplate the probable
+sufferings I shall have to support upon the long voyage we are about to
+undertake.
+
+Capt. Jaffray never having been on board a ship of such immense bulk,
+availed himself of my necessities, and took the command of the boat,
+upon this excursion, in order to look at the vast Commerce de
+Marseilles. I wish it were practicable to convey to you, in words, the
+sense of grandeur with which the mind is inspired on first approaching
+such an enormous floating battery; or to paint to you the sensations
+excited by rowing, in a small boat, close below her stern, and her
+sides; but it were quite impossible for the pen to describe how
+diminutive we felt, or how immense and wonderful she appeared. To
+express it by the image of the gnat and the camel, it were necessary to
+suppose the former the minutest of its race, and the latter hugely
+overgrown. Looking up from our little skiff, the sight was truly awful;
+the figure of the ship was forgotten; the hull appeared a mountain, the
+masts lofty obelisks erected upon it; and the tremendous batteries,
+projecting from her sides, conveyed the idea of a stupendous rock
+hanging over us, fortified with many tiers of cannon.
+
+We returned, yesterday, to the Lord Sheffield, and you will be glad to
+know that we were accompanied by doctor Cleghorn, who, in consequence of
+a new arrangement, is permitted to join our mess; so that we have again
+the prospect of crossing the Atlantic pleasantly _en quartette_.
+
+To-day a signal has been made for the fleet to unmoor; and, in
+consequence of this, the Lord Sheffield has dropped down from the
+Mother-bank to the eastern part of Spithead. Should the wind continue at
+the point from which it now blows, we may be to-morrow on our passage.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XII.
+
+
+ Lord Sheffield, at sea, Dec. 31.
+
+At length we are at sea! the convoy sailed from Spithead and St. Helens,
+the day after I sent my last letter, and I now lift my pen to you upon
+the bosom of the wide Atlantic. From the time of the ever-memorable
+attempt of the fleet to proceed upon the voyage, in the month of
+November, the adverse winds, which had driven it back, in so shattered
+and disastrous a condition, detained it, in harbour, until the 9th
+instant; when it again put to sea under a serene sky, and propitious
+breezes; but, notwithstanding these favorable appearances, we have,
+since, had a most perilous succession of storms, one having, scarcely,
+subsided before it has been followed by another; and I have now so lost
+my confidence in the weather, that, although I am sitting in tolerable
+quietness to write to you, at this moment, I dare scarcely hope to
+finish my letter before I shall be tossed from my chair by a renewal of
+the gale.
+
+This is the last day of the old year, and, whichsoever way I look, my
+eye surveys only an unbounded ocean. When we may again see land, it were
+difficult to conjecture, but my pen shall prepare for you some _notes_
+of our proceedings, occasionally, when the sea will permit me to guide
+it; and I will send them by any vessel we may chance to meet on the
+passage, or by the earliest packet, after we reach the West Indies.
+
+On the first morning of our being at sea, the weather was clear and
+mild, and the whole fleet, consisting of nearly three hundred vessels,
+of various magnitude, was assembled in compact form, occupying a certain
+circle of the ocean’s surface, and gliding smoothly on its passage. It
+formed one of the grandest spectacles ever beheld. Never shall I forget
+climbing up the shrowds, as high as the main top, to enjoy it in all its
+perfection. The sun shone; the sea was smooth and undisturbed; the air
+serene. All sails were set, and the vessels being near to each other,
+the white canvass seemed spread, in crowded continuation, throughout the
+wide space covered by the fleet. Looking down upon the multitude of
+ships, it created the idea of an entire nation moving upon the waters.
+It was an emblem of Britain’s glory. We appeared to command the whole
+empire of the main; and the prospect, being calculated to excite
+flattering hopes of victory and success, could not fail to be viewed, by
+every Briton, with delight. But, alas! how delusive were these
+auspicious dawnings! We had advanced very little on our passage, before
+a dire reverse succeeded. The sun was now obscured; a thick fog
+overspread the ocean; and all the fleet was shut from our sight. Clouds
+gathered around; and the heavens scowled in terrific blackness. At
+length burst forth a roaring storm! the waters broke into huge billows;
+and the ships, struggling against the wild and furious waves, were, at
+one moment, tossed on a pinnacle, and, the next, plunged into a gloomy
+deep, surrounded by disordered mountains. In an instant they were again
+amidst the clouds, and again as suddenly sunk in the dark valley of
+liquid hills: thus, alternately, threatening us with the danger of being
+hurled from a summit, or swallowed up in a frightful gulf of the
+unfathomable ocean. Nor had we, barely, to encounter the common dangers
+of the sea, but, from being amidst a crowded fleet, were, every instant,
+liable to the additional peril of running aboard some neighbouring ship,
+and being dashed in pieces, or driven suddenly to the bottom: to this we
+were likewise exposed by the darkness of night, or by a heavy fog. The
+terror of these critical moments is necessarily augmented by the lively
+apprehensions of those who are but little accustomed to the sea: nor is
+this wonderful, for, where every motion, and every sound is calculated
+to excite alarm, he must be more than a philosopher, he must be a
+sailor, who can regard even the less imminent perils with unconcern.
+
+During a storm, the deep rollings of the ship, her deeper lurches, the
+thundering concussion of heavy seas against her sides, the hollow dreary
+sound of the wind howling in her sails and rigging, the hurry and
+clamour of the ship’s company, and the dismal creakings of the masts,
+bulkheads, and other parts of the vessel, all conspire to create tumult
+and confusion, and to keep alive the most trembling apprehensions. At
+one moment the ship is upset, the next you feel her strike upon a rock:
+suddenly she is shattered to atoms; or, foundering, sinks to the bottom;
+and, while you are absorbed in these sensations, a sea, or heavy spray
+breaks over the deck, a threatening wave beats in the quarter gallery,
+or a rolling mountain dashes the stern windows into the cabin. The water
+now pouring upon you from every opening, your fears are confirmed, and
+you feel that the vessel is positively sinking. Quickly, the accident is
+repaired, and, in the moment of despair you are greeted with tidings of
+safety.
+
+Often, in the midst of alarming appearances, and manifold disquietudes,
+you are visited by the carpenter, with the “dead-lights,” who, fixing
+them in the stern windows, nails you up in darkness, as in a coffin, and
+with as much _sang froid_ as men of his calling screw up the bodies of
+those who are actually dead: replying, at the same time, to your anxious
+and fearful inquiries regarding the necessity for that step being taken,
+that it is “_only to keep the spray from breaking the windows_!” But I
+am fatiguing you with a detail of what every one knows; and most who
+have been at sea, have felt: let me, therefore, return to our voyage.
+
+What shall I say to you of our armada—our unfortunate fleet! Ere this
+can meet your hand, you will have had many, alas! too many melancholy
+proofs of the disasters which have befallen it. Did ever the seas: did
+the heavens ever fight so cruelly against an expedition! were ever the
+elements so decidedly hostile to the great and flattering efforts of
+man!
+
+After the violence of the first gale, most of our scattered fleet, owing
+to the attention and exertions of Admiral Christian and his officers,
+was again assembled, and we felicitated ourselves in the hope of
+proceeding to our place of destination without further interruption: but
+the turbulent mountains of a disordered sea were scarcely reduced to a
+more tranquil surface, before the storm was renewed with additional
+violence. Quickly we were more scattered than before. Many of the ships,
+unable to resist this second shock, were, now, much injured, and obliged
+to put back into port. Some, we suppose, again joined the admiral, and
+others wholly lost the convoy. We were among the latter, but, when the
+weather cleared, we fell in with a small division of the fleet, with
+which we sailed in company, for several days. Further repetitions of the
+storm again separated us, and we were tossed about, seeing no more than
+three, sometimes but two, and often only a single ship, until, at
+length, we found ourselves quite alone upon the broad ocean.
+
+Previous to our final separation we witnessed a scene of a most
+melancholy nature; having observed a neighbouring ship in the utmost
+danger of being lost, without possessing the power of affording her any
+relief. She hoisted a flag, and fired guns of distress; but the gale was
+so strong, and the sea running so frightfully high, that it was
+impossible to give her assistance. We stood towards her, and anxiously
+kept her in view, in the hope of administering aid, if she should be
+supported upon the surface until the weather became moderate. Unhappily
+the tempest continued increasing rather than diminishing in violence. We
+looked fearfully on the ship, expecting every instant to see her go to
+the bottom. She repeated signals of distress. We heard them, and saw
+them, but were unable to obey them. It was a most awful crisis. We
+regarded her with dismal forebodings, examining her, both with the eye
+and the telescope, again and again. Her masts were standing; her sails
+entire; and the rigging, apparently, perfect; but these circumstances,
+which to landsmen would have seemed favorable, we discovered to be the
+very reverse; for, hence it was that our best sailors formed the fatal
+conclusion that her situation was hopeless, and that she must have
+sprung a leak!
+
+We watched the heavens, and the waters in painful solicitude, but saw no
+relaxation of the storm. Tremendous mountains at one moment concealed
+the wretched ship from our view: at another we appeared to be enveloped,
+together, in the same frightful gulf. You will conceive our sensations
+upon feeling that, in one instant more, this deep pit of the ocean might
+be the grave of every soul on board. Signals, denoting the extreme of
+danger, were repeated: the sea rolled in terrific disorder: we bent our
+eyes in vain towards the vessel, deploring her threatened fate, and our
+own inability to prevent it! Night came on. We lost her in darkness,
+and—beheld her no more!
+
+Heaven grant that she may be in safety! But we all fear she cannot have
+withstood the violence of the gale, which continued until morning, and
+throughout the whole of the following day, with unremitted fury. Our
+anxiety was also much augmented, from having seen masts, spars, and
+other pieces of wreck, float by the side of our ship, when the storm
+abated. Until now I had regarded the sailing in company with a fleet as
+a kind of social protection; but henceforth I shall feel no desire to
+move in crowded society on the ocean. Being alone, we are exposed to the
+risk of falling into the hands of the enemy; but, compared to our late
+suffering, even the vilest of French prisons loses its horrors; for,
+what can be so truly afflicting as to see a number of our
+fellow-creatures plunged into the deepest distress, and to feel withheld
+from tendering them relief! Our solitary situation must prevent a
+repetition of such a scene: it also removes the peril of our being
+injured or destroyed, by other ships; of which we had much dread, while
+we were amidst the fleet.
+
+It is not only during a storm that there is danger of one ship running
+foul of another: it is equally, perhaps more likely to happen when the
+wind abates, particularly if this occur suddenly, for then the ship, not
+being supported by the resistance of the gale, gives way to the heavy
+seas, and, from disobeying the helm, is liable to be driven aboard other
+vessels. Often, at this moment, as well as during the storm, the ships
+appear to have no weight, nor depth of purchase in the water, but they
+toss and roll about at the mercy of the waves, like empty barrels
+floating upon the surface.
+
+At the period of separating from the fleet we knew not our place of
+destination: it became expedient therefore to open the sealed
+instructions; from which we discovered that Carlisle Bay, in Barbadoes,
+was fixed as the general rendezvous of the fleet. Here, therefore, all
+our attractions lie, and to this port we are endeavouring to steer; but
+adverse winds and violent tempests perpetually oppose our progress. It
+is now more than three weeks from the date of our departure, and we are
+yet beating about much nearer to you than you imagine, having, hitherto,
+advanced, on our passage, only twelve degrees of longitude, and three of
+latitude. But in whatever latitude or longitude, amidst whatever storms
+or dangers, I am always
+
+ Yours.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XIII.
+
+
+ At sea, Jan. 24, 1796.
+
+I had hoped not to resume my pen upon the face of the restless Atlantic;
+but that, long ere this, I might have addressed you from the island of
+Barbadoes; unhappily however, nearly four more tedious weeks have been
+consumed, in struggling against the united violence of merciless winds,
+and a relentless ocean. The _new year_ set in, with mildness, and we
+began to sail pleasantly on our passage. The breeze was fair; the sea
+smooth and tranquil; the sun shone with genial warmth; the ship advanced
+in steady motion; and our cares were dissipated in the hope that all our
+disasters were buried in the grave of the _old year_. But, alas! our
+flattering prospect had not the duration of a day.
+
+Before the next morning the storm was renewed, and from that moment gale
+has succeeded to gale, and storm to storm, defeating all our happiest
+calculations; even the best established prognostics have deceived us;
+clouds separating, a change of wind, heavy rain, and the like, are no
+longer any indication of an abating tempest. At one time, under the
+clearest azure sky, and the brightest sun, the dry wind tears in keenest
+violence, as if rushing, from the parched clouds to devour all the
+fluids of the ocean: at another, loaded with moisture, it bursts into
+sudden gusts and squalls, heaving the ship, almost out of the sea, and
+leaving her as it were suspended in the air; and, as if the fates had
+resolved to torment us, whenever the wind, and the heavy waves have a
+little subsided, and we have looked for steady sailing on our passage, a
+breeze has sprung up, from the most unfavorable point, and though
+moderate, for a moment, has quickly increased, again, to a storm. Seven
+long weeks have passed, and with difficulty can it be said that we have
+had an interval of one diurnal round, free from the perils of raging
+winds, or of the huge and troubled mountains thereby engendered!
+
+Did I not feel that I am steering _from_ my friends, the cruel
+perplexities of this tormenting voyage would lead me into a vow, perhaps
+somewhat rash, never again to intrust my body to so fickle a guardian as
+the sea. But, not all the perils of which she is mistress, nor any thing
+short of death, can deter me from again hazarding my person in order to
+return amidst those I love. Novelty has many charms; and it is pleasing
+to regard society under its various forms, in every country and every
+clime; but, even in this, the great enjoyment centres in the endearing
+hope of being, some day, stationary amongst our friends; for to
+associate with those of similar minds, whose dispositions, whose
+interests and pursuits are congenial with our own, is the highest boon
+of civilized life: beyond this, the world has nothing to offer.
+
+I still look forward to the happy termination of our passage; and feel
+that the present sufferings will arm me against a multitude of future
+alarms. I can almost fancy that a good ship is imperishable on the open
+sea; and could you know all that ours has borne, you would be inclined
+to countenance the opinion. She has amply proved herself to be what the
+sailors term “_a good sea boat_;” and, from the events of our voyage,
+you will feel the force of the technical expression that “_she can live
+in all weathers_.” The shocks and beatings she has withstood, are almost
+incredible. Her topmasts, yards, and different parts of the rigging have
+been carried away—her sails split—the quarter boards stove in: things
+have been washed overboard from the deck—seas have broken over
+her—sprays dashed in the cabin windows—and various other accidents have
+befallen her: yet all have been repaired, and she still rides
+triumphant!
+
+During the severity of a storm I have often remarked how differently the
+scene has affected the minds of those accustomed, and those who are
+unaccustomed to the sea. The sailor patiently observes the gale, lowers
+the yards and topmasts, furls or reefs his sails, makes all snug, and
+thanks the tempest for a holiday; heedless of the perils which surround
+him, he extends himself in his hammock, or reclines his head on a plank
+or a locker, and, sinking into the arms of Morpheus, regards the
+howlings of the storm as his peaceful lullaby. The landsman, on the
+contrary, is restless and impatient; listens in terror to the wind; and
+shrinks in agitation at every sound: the dangers that are, he magnifies,
+and his mind is tortured in the creation of others, which do not exist.
+Each moment, to him, breeds new alarm. He asks a thousand questions,
+dictated by a thousand fears. He goes upon deck—looks round with
+affrighted eyes—his feet are unable to support his trembling body—he
+clings to the companion door-way, and, thence, ventures to cast a look
+at the ocean and its waves. His head grows giddy—nausea seizes him, and
+he again descends to the cabin in extreme anxiety. He fixes himself in
+the leeward corner—places his elbows on his knees—his head on his hands,
+and, concealing his eyes, bewails his wretched fate! Suddenly he again
+seeks the deck—multiplies all the perils of the moment—torments the
+captain and sailors with new questions, all expressive of his
+terror—fastens again to the companion door-way—gazes at the masts and
+sails—observes the yards dip into the ocean—feels the yieldings of the
+ship—imagines she is upset—fancies the masts are falling overboard, and,
+in each rolling wave, beholds a devouring sea. Destruction occupies his
+mind! He returns below—impatiently seats himself—seeks relief in a
+book—is unable to read—throws away the volume—again takes it up, and
+again throws it down: nausea returns, and he is seized with dizziness
+and retching. His bodily feelings now augment the disquietude of his
+mind, and, at length, as a remedy for both, he prostrates himself in his
+birth; but is still wretched and comfortless—all rest is denied
+him—sickness and anxiety remain—and he lies rolling, in fear and
+anguish, to wear out the fury of the storm!
+
+Strong as this contrast may appear, I have often seen it, fully,
+verified. During a gale we sometimes feel amazement at observing the
+carpenter and his mates working, quietly, in the tops; and the sailors
+hanging about the yards and rigging, in seeming unconcern—tossed by each
+rolling sea from side to side, far beyond the limits of the ship, and,
+not unfrequently, while seated at the end of the yard, dipped and
+drenched in the foaming billows! The indifference of seafaring men to
+the dangers around them is exemplified in every part of their conduct,
+and, even, in their common expressions. Many times when we have felt the
+most vivid apprehensions from the fierceness of the tempest and the
+roughness of the ocean, and have, tremblingly, sought relief, by an
+appeal to the captain or mate, we have met only a look of unconcern, or,
+at most, the laconic reply “_It blows fresh._” From their quaint and
+technical terms it is difficult for any one, unaccustomed to the sea, to
+know precisely what they mean to convey. Their degrees of comparison are
+peculiar to themselves, and, at first, not easily to be comprehended:
+taking the term fresh as the positive, they say it blows _fresh_—it
+blows _strong_—it blows _hard_; and again, to denote the severest
+possible gale, they assume hard as the positive—add an oath to form the
+comparative, and augment that oath to constitute the superlative: thus,
+it blows _hard_; it blows _d—— hard_; it blows _d—— hard, by ——_.
+Previous to this extremity we are commonly furnished with an omen, by
+the captain coming below, to change his long coat for a short round
+jacket; from which we always prognosticate unfavorably; it being a
+precaution which denotes busy, and perhaps, perilous employment.
+
+Our steward is a very old sailor, tough as the ropes of the ship, and
+callous to every alarm; being the person more immediately about us, it
+most frequently falls to his lot to be teased with questions regarding
+the weather, the wind, and the sea; and the steady apathy of his
+feelings, together with his excessive and _sang froid_ and unconcern,
+have been subjects of remark—sometimes, indeed, of vexation to us; for
+his utter insensibility to the circumstances calling forth our cares and
+alarms, has, occasionally, provoked us. During one of our perilous
+storms, the wind having shifted to a point somewhat less unfavorable,
+although still blowing a terrific gale, the usual question was
+asked—“Well, steward! how is the weather?”—“_Squally, squally,
+gentlemen—the wind’s coming about—be fine weather soon._” According to
+the feelings of this old tar, the severest tempests that we have
+suffered, were only squalls, for, in the midst of the most tremendous
+gales, his reply has always been, “_Squally, a little squally
+gentlemen._”—“Are we making any way, steward?”—“_Oh yes, fine wind,
+quite free, going large, make six or seven knots._”—“But surely we have
+too much of this good wind, steward?”—“_Oh, no! fine wind as can blow,
+gentlemen—but a little squally—rather squally._”
+
+Our dinner ceremony is often rendered a humorous scene: at this hour the
+cabin being the general rendezvous of the party, we meet—crawl,
+trembling, towards the table, and tie ourselves in the chairs. A tray is
+set before us, with deep holes cut in it for the dishes, plates, and
+glasses; the table and chairs are lashed to the deck; yet one or other
+frequently gives way, and upsets half the things in the cabin! Presently
+enters the steward with soup, followed by his little slave with
+potatoes; and the servants with such other covers as there may chance to
+be. But scarcely are the things upon table, and the servants stationed,
+clinging to the backs of our chairs, before a sudden lurch of the ship
+tumbles all into disorder. Away go steward, servants, and little Mungo,
+to the lee corner of the cabin: the soup salutes the lap of one of us;
+another receives a leg of pork; a third is presented with a piece of
+mutton or beef; a couple of chickens or ducks fly to another; the
+pudding jumps nearly into the mouth of the next; and the potatoes are
+tossed in all directions, about the deck of the cabin. One seizes his
+plate; another stops his knife and fork; some cling to the table,
+thinking only of saving their persons; this secures the bottle; the
+next, half fallen, holds up his glass in one hand, and fixes himself
+fast to his chair with the other. Plates, dishes, knives, forks, and
+glasses clatter together in all the discord of the moment. Every thing
+is in confusion. The ship now becomes steady for a moment; the scattered
+parts of the dinner are collected; and those who have escaped sickness,
+again attempt to eat. Some, foreseeing all these accidents, fix
+themselves in a corner upon the cabin-deck, and take the plate between
+their knees, fancying themselves in security: but, quickly, they are
+tumbled, in ridiculous postures, sprawling, with outstretched limbs, to
+the other side of the cabin. One cries out with sore bruises; another
+from being wetted with the sprays: this calls for help; that relieves
+his stomach from sickness: some abuse the helmsman; others the ship; and
+others the sea; while all join in a chorus of imprecations upon the
+wind.
+
+With pleasure I feel myself able to inform you that we have indications
+of having passed the Azores. The temperature of the atmosphere is become
+very genial to our feelings, and, amidst our tossings and bufferings, we
+seem to have brought all-inspiring May close upon the heels of
+Christmas. A considerable quantity of sea-weed appears floating upon the
+water, and this, the sailors observe, is never seen to the north of the
+Western Isles, it being supposed to proceed from the gulf of Mexico, and
+not to be carried beyond these islands. We are steering more to the
+south than our direct course; but we are glad to make _Southing_ at the
+expense of a little _Westing_, in the hope of beating out of the
+latitude of the tormenting gales, which have, almost incessantly, beset
+us: but I forget that I am tiring you with uninteresting details, and
+that my letter is growing as tedious as the voyage.
+
+ Adieu.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XIV.
+
+
+ Carlisle Bay, Feb. 13, 1796.
+
+After all our perils and dangers we are, again, safe at anchor, with
+terra firma in view! What a delightful element is the solid earth!
+During nine long weeks have we been wandering, upon the fickle waters,
+without obtaining even the most distant sight of land: but of this
+enough! Let me not recal, to your mind, scenes that we are endeavouring
+to forget. Throughout the last fortnight the tumults of a boisterous
+ocean have been assuaged. For two or three days, after writing my last
+notes, we were nearly becalmed, and the foaming Atlantic became smooth
+and tranquil as the fish-pond of a pleasure-ground. This placid interval
+was occupied in making preparations for fair sailing; the top-gallant
+masts were got up—the royals and steering sails made ready—fishing lines
+were thrown into the still sea—and an awning prepared for the
+quarter-deck; all of which imply steady breezes, warm regions, and
+pleasant sailing. On the 25th of January we were in latitude 27° 49′,
+the thermometer at 69°. The morning was mild; the sea still and smooth,
+as a lake: all nature seemed hushed in silence, and no wind could be
+felt. We rose early, and enjoyed a steady walk on the, now, quiet deck.
+The sun, protruding from the bosom of a tranquil ocean, softly stole
+above the horizon, swelled into globular form, mildly assumed refulgent
+brightness, and spread his cheering rays around. From excess of motion
+we had lapsed into perfect rest. We hailed the change with admiration;
+yet wished enough of wind to carry us on our voyage. The timoneer left
+the helm; and the ship remained immoveable upon the water. Two strange
+vessels were observed to be in sight—a brig and a schooner. The former
+was directly in our wake. Viewing this, amidst the universal stillness
+which prevailed, we remarked, with surprise, that she was moving,
+towards us, with full sails. At this moment the sky darkened; the
+thermometer fell to 64; a gentle rippling spread over the still surface
+of the water; and, almost imperceptibly, brought us——a favorable breeze!
+It was from the north-east; and so soft and steady, that scarcely did we
+feel the vessel in motion, before we were advancing at the rate of five
+knots an hour! What we had so long and anxiously sought, was now
+arrived, and we most cordially welcomed——_the trade-wind_! The sailors
+announced it in loud greetings: need I say that we partook in their
+liveliest joy? Never was a happier moment! All sense of our long
+sufferings vanished, and we were quite in raptures on this glad event.
+Indeed we had cause to think ourselves fortunate on being received by
+the favoring _Trades_ in their very earliest latitude. This was a most
+grateful period of our passage, and, together with the weather we have
+since experienced, has, in some degree, compensated former evils. The
+temperature grew cooler than it had been during the few days of calm.
+The breeze freshened, and all hands were busily occupied in setting
+every possible sail, to obtain the full benefit of this great and
+constant trader’s friend. Quickly new canvass stretched from every point
+of the masts and yards, and the ship, winged with five additional sails,
+widely spread her expanded pinions to catch the breeze. What a change!
+transported, at once, from the perils of severe tempest, to the finest,
+smoothest sailing! Sickness, and all other uneasy feelings were
+banished; we exercised, freely, upon the deck; and advanced on our
+passage, almost without perceiving the vessel move! So rapid, indeed,
+was our progress, that the ship seemed to feel no resistance, in her
+easy course through the water!
+
+As soon as we entered _the trades_, our _ports_ and _scuttles_ were beat
+open, and we had a free circulation of air, through the cabin, night and
+day. The windows were likewise opened; and, as we sailed before the
+wind, the Venetian blinds admitted the breeze, whilst they excluded the
+rays of the sun. By these means we were kept pleasantly cool, below; and
+when upon deck we were protected by a canvass awning, under which we had
+a shaded walk, ventilated by a free current of air. Having several
+bathing tubs on board, we had, likewise, the comfort, the luxury I might
+say, of plunging into sea-water every morning; and, in order not to meet
+these burning regions, with all the rigid fibre, and strong vascular
+action of Europe, I have adopted the plan of using a very abstemious
+diet, and have submitted to a short preparatory course of medicine. My
+comrades smile at the precaution, but, _although doctors may disagree_,
+I shall hope, on some future day, to exhibit, to you, the good effects
+of this early discipline.
+
+Many days previous to our arrival in Carlisle Bay, the increase of
+temperature had brought out upon our skins that troublesome eruption
+called _prickly heat_. Our bodies were covered with it, and the
+irritation and itching it occasioned were intolerable. Our companion,
+Dr. Cleghorn, being an early sufferer from it, demanded of those who had
+been accustomed to the West Indies, how long his skin was to be thus
+tormented? So long, good doctor, as you remain in health, was the reply!
+Upon which, with additional rubbing and scratching, the doctor jocosely,
+although somewhat impatiently exclaimed, in the accent of his country,
+“Faith, captain, and would you carry us into never-ceasing torment?
+’Bout ship, and tack for England immediately.”
+
+On the morning of the 10th instant the boatswain descried the highest
+points of Barbadoes, when _land! land!_ was instantly echoed throughout
+the ship, to the great joy of all on board; and to the boatswain’s
+profit, who, being the first to sound the glad tidings, became entitled
+to the customary fee of a bottle of rum. It required the eye of a sailor
+to distinguish the all-delighting terra firma, amidst the clouds: the
+passengers looked, and looked in vain! a nearer approach of several
+leagues, was necessary, to render it visible to the eye of a landsman,
+and when we, at length, discerned it, the earth appeared, only, as the
+more fixed of the clouds, forming a dark streak a little above the
+horizon. This streak became, gradually, more and more distinct, till,
+breaking as we advanced, it assumed the rugged form of mountains; and,
+at length, the appearance of land. Soon we discovered it to be the
+northern point of the island of Barbadoes: but Carlisle Bay is to the
+south: we had, therefore, to coast round nearly half the extent of the
+island, before we could reach the harbour. This delay afforded us a good
+opportunity of viewing the country. We stood near in, and could observe,
+distinctly, the objects on shore. I took my seat upon deck, and with an
+anxious eye, aided by the telescope, minutely, examined every thing we
+passed. The mind, ever active, generally forms to itself some image of
+the things we hear spoken of, before any opportunity occurs of seeing
+them. Often the picture is very incorrect and extravagant; but, upon the
+present occasion, I discovered that my imagination had painted a
+tolerably accurate copy of the West Indies, from the descriptions which
+I had heard and read.
+
+Our coasting view of the island was not the most favorable: for a
+nakedness, which Barbadoes does not possess, appeared to prevail: nor
+did the general verdure equal our expectations: houses, huts, windmills,
+and sugar-works, although plentifully distributed, did not present the
+scenery, or the air of richness and comfort which we had expected. There
+seemed to be a want of inclosures, and a deficiency of trees and hedges.
+The buildings looked bare and exposed, and there was a deficiency of
+that protecting shade, for the cattle, which our feelings had deemed
+requisite in such a climate. The houses being without chimneys, and
+devoid of ornament, conveyed the idea of barns: nor could we associate
+them in the picture of wealth and abundance which had been called up in
+our minds. We wished that the numerous windmills, houses, and other
+buildings we saw, had been more protected by the deep-shading foliage of
+the tropical vegetation. If a variety of trees had been interspersed, or
+the branching silk-cotton, or stately mountain-cabbage had contributed
+its shelter, the appearance of comfort would have been preserved, and
+the picturesque effect rendered more striking. The land is considerably
+varied, being hilly and unequal; and, from the general view in sailing
+along the coast, it appears to rise into two or three distinct tables,
+which elevate themselves abruptly, one above another.
+
+We made the entrance of the harbour, just as the sun was sinking into
+his watery bed, for the night; and it was in debate whether we could
+_fetch in_ before it grew dark, when it was suddenly decided against us,
+by the wind shifting and coming round _directly ahead_. This we learned
+was the land-breeze. In these regions the trade-wind blows from the sea,
+during the day; but this commonly subsides, as the sun goes down, and a
+contrary breeze sets in, from the land, which continues throughout the
+night.
+
+Being prevented from coming to anchor, we stood off and on, at the
+harbour’s mouth, until daylight, when we discovered that we had no cause
+of regret in this additional delay; for all the beauties of Carlisle Bay
+were, now, exhibited to us, not only under the still light of the
+morning, but brightened by the golden rays of the rising sun. If we had
+gone in at night, we must have lost a most enchanting prospect; and the
+loss would have been irreparable, for, after the eye had been accustomed
+to the rich foliage, the houses, the towns, the fields, and all the
+peculiarity of tropical scenery, the impression which we now felt could
+never have been excited. The mind was, at this moment, in a state to
+enjoy them: the novelty was great, and every object striking. We had
+been long at sea, and the eye sought, eagerly, the shore. Land was
+anxiously desired: the view of it opened to us very favorably; and, from
+the various circumstances conspiring to its improvement, the prospect
+was rendered more delightful than it could have been at any other
+period.
+
+The harbour is a fine open bay, the whole of which, with its varied
+shores, was before us: many ships were riding at anchor, and a multitude
+of boats and small vessels were sailing and rowing to and fro. The two
+points of land, at the entrance, serve as a defence, while they augment
+the beauty of the harbour. On one of them appears a formidable battery,
+together with an extensive barrack for troops: on the other is a fine
+grove of mountain-cabbage, and coco-nut trees. Through the shipping at
+the bottom of the bay, are seen numbers of neat cottages; among which
+are interspersed various tropical trees, affording the protecting
+shelter of their umbrageous summits. On the south-west shore stands
+Bridge-town, the capital of the island; and on the north-east, upon high
+ground, is a new and handsome quadrangle of stone barracks, with the
+military hospital and other buildings of St. Anne’s Hill. Nor is the
+prospect confined to these limits; for, in addition to the water, the
+shipping, and the numerous other objects, immediately before the eye,
+the land in the back-ground is seen above the houses, the trees, and the
+topmasts of the ships, rising to a great distance, clothed in all the
+richness of its tropical apparel. Verdant fields of sugar, of coffee,
+and of cotton; fine groves, dark with luxuriant foliage; country villas;
+clusters of negro huts, windmills, and sugar-works, all present
+themselves to diversify and enliven the picture. Such was the scene
+which appeared before us as we sailed into Carlisle Bay. You, whose idol
+is nature, in all her forms, will feel a friendship for the evening
+land-breeze which so happily lengthened a voyage, before too long.
+
+ Adieu.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XV.
+
+
+ Barbadoes, Feb.
+
+Previous to our coming into harbour, from our late voyage, the ship’s
+company was busily occupied for several days, in cleaning, painting, and
+adorning the vessel; according to a prevailing custom of dressing the
+West India ships in a new jacket, during the steady sailing of _running
+down the trades_, in order that they may appear clean, and in the best
+condition, while remaining in the harbours of the islands. In this the
+sailors have a degree of pride, which excites a general spirit of
+emulation; every captain wishing to render his vessel the object of
+admiration and attraction. In consequence of this custom the West India
+harbours become like drawing-rooms of fine-dressed merchantmen. Here,
+each ship exhibits her best apparel, and vying with the others, holds
+out her lures to catch the eye of every beholder. The decoration is
+universal. From head to stern, not a plank, a mast, a yard, nor scarcely
+a rope escapes; each receives a full dress coat of paint, or is made new
+with a black varnish of tar. The more prominent parts of our ship being
+completed, the progress of cleaning and ornamenting was extended to such
+minutiæ as to become ridiculous. A decorating mania seemed to have
+seized the whole crew, and every one was up to his elbows in grease,
+tar, and oil. Not an iron ring, a bolt, or a nail was neglected—not even
+the cannon-balls escaped—and, that nothing should be omitted, the inner
+surface of the water-buckets, regardless of health, were dressed with
+their poisonous coating. Never was idle excess rendered more
+conspicuous. Not an inch, nor an atom, but appeared in Lord Sheffield’s
+livery; black and yellow prevailed from the highest point of the masts,
+down to the very water’s edge. Nothing can convey to you a stronger idea
+of the fine steady sailing, in a trade-wind, than to know that the outer
+part of the ship is painted at sea, by men hanging in ropes, at her
+sides, whilst she is proceeding with full canvass, on her passage.
+
+The ship’s company have another, and yet stronger pride, which respects
+the swiftness of their vessel: like every man’s horse, every sailor’s
+ship is _the best in the world_; every captain commands the quickest
+vessel of the fleet! _He_ would cease to merit the honor of a jacket,
+who could be brought to acknowledge, however true it might be, that his
+ship was a sluggish sailer: for, however manifest this shall appear, an
+excuse is never wanting. She is in bad trim—she is too much by the
+stern—too much by the head—is too deep—too light—the breeze is not from
+her quarter—she sails best upon a wind—before the wind—she makes best
+way in a gale—in a light breeze: so that be the weather, and the
+attendant circumstances whatever they may, here is a _side-wind_ for
+each of them; and a son of the ocean is always expert enough to
+appropriate them in favor of his vessel, so as to guard her, at every
+point, against the imputation of being a dull sailer. Our ship was found
+not to advance in proportion to the breeze; it was, therefore, deemed
+expedient to give her a new main-top-gallant mast; and this was put up,
+in the night-time, with as much secrecy as if the failure of the
+expedition had hung upon its disclosure. We, afterwards, discovered that
+it was done, in the dark, not to conceal it from the passengers, only,
+but from the ship’s company of a vessel, which happened, then, to be
+sailing near us; and with which the Lord Sheffield was, secretly, vying
+in her progress.
+
+A day or two after we had entered into the latitude of the trade-wind,
+we had to cross the tropic; which was an occasion of great mirth and
+festivity. The usual ceremonies were performed—the usual honors paid to
+old Neptune, and all was holiday. The great deity of the ocean,
+accompanied by his queen, ascended from the deep, in order to welcome us
+to his tropical abode, and to witness _the baptism_ of all his children
+who had not, before, done homage at his font. This is a ceremony which
+is, commonly, thought to be ludicrous: but, in the way it is conducted
+by the rough tars, it becomes a very dirty and severe process. It is
+extended to every person on board, who has not been already within the
+tropics, varying only in its mode of application, and in its severities.
+
+The old sailors are careful to discover, in the course of the passage,
+which of their messmates have not undergone the discipline of this
+tropical baptism; and on this day, all who are marked for the ceremony,
+are led upon deck, one by one, blindfolded. In this state the young
+sailor is made to seat himself upon a small narrow plank, laid across a
+large tub of salt water, or upon the edge of the tub itself, and, in
+this perilous situation, they administer to him a long and ridiculous
+oath: then offer him a glass of gin, by way of cordial, which he is
+compelled to drink, and finds it to be only a glass of salt water. They,
+then, smear his face with a nasty compound of grease, tar, and stinking
+oil, taking care in the operation, to force some of it into his mouth.
+The next step is to shave this off, and the razor employed, for the
+purpose, is commonly a piece of an old iron hoop, beat full of notches.
+The filth being in part scraped from his chin, with this rough
+instrument, the baptismal process is completed by the plank, upon which
+he is seated, being suddenly withdrawn, and the young initiated plunged
+head and ears into the tub of water; where he is made to lie kicking and
+sprawling for a considerable time; after which he is permitted to rise
+from his briny birth; when his eyes are unveiled, he washes his
+countenance, and issues forth a privileged son of old Neptune—_free_ to
+range in the tropical seas. If he contend, or offer any resistance, he
+is treated with three or four dippings, instead of one; he finds it
+best, therefore, not to be refractory, and smothers his wrath in the
+secret pleasure of witnessing a similar process imposed upon the rest of
+his messmates. Every one, whether sailor or landsman, is called upon to
+undergo this christening ceremony!
+
+As passengers we were honored with a visit from father Neptune and his
+spouse, to welcome us to their tropical dwelling, and to announce the
+propriety and necessity of the baptismal vow: but we compromised the
+discipline of dipping and shaving, by offering the tribute of a few
+gallons of rum! Nevertheless, we were taught that it would be prudent to
+remain, quietly, in the cabin, during this briny christening of the
+sailors.
+
+The servants were led by curiosity to visit the deck, hoping to witness
+the ceremony without becoming, themselves, the objects of it: but they
+were speedily presented with a complete washing of sea-water, and
+obliged to beat a hasty retreat, in order to escape the shaving: one of
+them, who was a great coxcomb in his dress, grew sadly enraged, and felt
+highly indignant that the sailors should dare to wet and spoil his
+clothes: in his anger he ran down below to arm himself with a sword,
+then returning upon deck, declared that he would run any man through the
+body, who should throw water upon him, again: but scarcely had he said
+the words, and brandished his sabre, before several bucketsful of water
+were dashed upon his head and shoulders, by some sailors who had placed
+themselves in the main-top. The poor man stormed violently, swore,
+stamped, and raved. The sailors, laughing at his impotent rage,
+continued to pour down bucketful after bucketful. He was unable to climb
+up the shrouds; and they diverted themselves at his wrath, until, at
+length, seeing that they defied all his threats, he again returned to
+the cabin, loudly denouncing vengeance, unmindful that his best remedy
+was to change his clothes, wipe himself dry, and let his choler subside.
+Custom is absolute, and, in the hands of such hardy ministers, it were
+folly to oppose its despotic government.
+
+After reaching the latitude of the trade-wind we passed very little of
+our time in the cabin; nor, throughout the whole passage, did we neglect
+to take our exercise upon deck, whenever the weather would permit;
+occasionally also, in order to divert the sad indolence of our inactive
+life, we gave assistance at the capstan, or in working the pump, or
+pulling the ropes.
+
+During our fine tropical sailing we were frequently amused in observing
+the immense shoals of porpoises, dolphins, and flying fish, which, from
+time to time, assembled about the ship. The frightful shark and spouting
+grampus also made us frequent visits.
+
+Harpoons and other instruments, called gigs, or grains, were prepared
+for the purpose of taking these inhabitants of the ocean. They are
+formidable weapons of iron, made with barbed points. At the time of
+using them, a wooden handle, loaded with lead, is affixed to them,
+together with a long cord; and they are struck into the animal while he
+is swimming at the side of the ship. If they penetrate beyond the barb
+he is unable to free himself from the instrument, but is turned upon his
+back, by the weight of the lead in the handle, and consequently has no
+power to escape. Often the iron points are bent double without entering;
+or sometimes they are thrown out by his struggles, and he swims off with
+his wound. This we saw happen to a large porpoise while he was amidst a
+shoal of his species so numerous as to darken the sea; when, instantly,
+every individual of them abandoned the ship, not to protect or console
+their wounded brother, but, according to the unfriendly habit of these
+hideous and rapacious creatures, to pursue him as their prey.
+
+The flying fish, the shark, and the dolphin, are all used by the
+sailors, as food. The shark is a most stupid animal—unlike other fishes,
+he disregards being seen. He shuns not people who appear before him, nor
+is intimidated at things falling near him, or even upon him in the
+water. Does this arise from a deficiency of nervous sensibility, or from
+a consciousness that he is armed against the objects he commonly meets?
+By throwing out to him occasionally a piece of fat pork, he may be
+induced to continue, at the side of the ship, whilst a rope, let down
+into the water, is passed over his head, and drawn tight round his body,
+in order to take him alive, and if it happen to slip off, he is torpid
+enough to remain until it be fixed a second time. We caught a very large
+one in this manner; and also, with the hook, took a smaller one, which
+the sailors consumed as delicate food.
+
+The shoals of dolphins are often so crowded as to convert the sea into a
+kind of rich and dazzling mine, exhibiting many brilliant interchanges
+of colour.
+
+The novelty of immense multitudes of fish darting from the sea and
+taking wing in the air, you will believe attracted our attention. To
+speak of fishes flying might seem to be a traveller’s tale; we were,
+therefore, led to a minute investigation of the fact. We watched them
+with a sceptical eye, and, at many different times, before we admitted
+even the evidence of our senses. It appeared possible that their short
+flight might be the effect of a single muscular effort, supported by the
+expansion of long membranous fins; and this opinion became strengthened
+from observing them, occasionally, touch the water, as if to gain new
+force from its resistance, and then rise again, and fly as far as
+before. But, upon regarding them with accuracy, we observed their wings
+employed, like those of birds, in fluttering motion as they flew. We saw
+them change their course, from a direct line; we perceived them rise and
+fall in their flight, to surmount the waves they met, and remarked that
+they often continued their progress to the distance of two or three
+hundred yards, without touching the water: at length some of them flew
+on board the ship, and, striking against the masts, fell dead upon the
+deck; thus affording us an opportunity of satisfying our doubts. After
+minutely examining their external form, we further assured ourselves, by
+carefully dissecting them; and we have now no hesitation in saying that
+fishes——_do fly_! The wings are very long: arising from behind the
+gills, they lie folded at the sides nearly the whole length of the fish,
+being formed of several fine cartilages, and a thin transparent membrane
+not unlike the wing of a bat. At the insertion, near the gills, they are
+narrow, but become considerably wider towards their extremities. When
+used in flying they are raised from the side, and expanded, by the
+cartilages separating from each other, and stretching out the membrane
+which covers them. They are not connected with the body by extensive
+muscular insertions; but are united by a ligamentous membrane. Two small
+muscles pass into each wing, terminating in strong ligaments. These
+serve to give them the command of the wing, but are not calculated to
+support long and powerful action. The fish is about the size of a
+herring. They are caught, in great numbers, near Barbadoes, where they
+are pickled, and salted, and used as a very common food.
+
+The day before we made the land we met with shoals of flying fish of
+much smaller size than those we had commonly seen; not larger, indeed,
+than sprats. On rising out of the water, in large bodies at a time, they
+caused a sound like the splashing of rain, which being heard by the
+captain, he instantly exclaimed “_Ha! bravo! land, land! here are the
+little splashers, we cant be far from the land!_” This small race of
+flying fish, it seems, is never observed at any great distance from the
+shore, nor in the deeper parts of the Atlantic: wherefore their
+appearance is assumed as a sure indication of a speedy approach to the
+land.
+
+We observed upon the passage, that after the great heat of the day, the
+water of the Atlantic was somewhat warmer than the circumambient air. In
+latitude 14°, at 10 o’clock at night, the thermometer stood at 72¼, and
+upon being put into a bucket of fresh-drawn sea-water it rose to 73.
+
+Like all young sailors we felt our attention strongly attracted by the
+phenomenon of the lights produced in the sea, at night, from the ship
+beating her way through the water. We often witnessed them in a very
+striking degree, and were, frequently, led to the forecastle to view
+them in their greatest splendour; for, there, the vessel appeared to be
+sailing through liquid flames. On every side the lights were vivid and
+beautiful, but at the head we saw the pitchings and plunges of the ship
+strike out wide flashes, resembling sheets of fire. At the stern these
+lights appear as if they poured from the vessel in bright streams of
+fire, extending to a considerable distance in her wake.
+
+We drew up water in buckets, occasionally, to the deck, and found that
+by agitating it, either with the hand or a piece of wood, we could
+excite the same luminous appearance: but, after disturbing it for a
+short time, this effect ceased; and no degree of agitation was
+sufficient to renew it in the same water. You know the various theories
+and speculations which have been offered in explanation of this
+phenomenon; I need not, therefore, swell my letter by repeating them.
+
+The beautiful appearance of the iris resting in small circles upon the
+surface of the ocean, was also a frequent subject of our notice. These
+were only seen near the ship, and it will occur to you that they
+proceeded from the minute particles of water, beaten off by the vessel,
+dividing the rays of light, and causing them to fall upon the sea in the
+form of rich and distinct rainbows. They are often extremely brilliant,
+and are observed, lying as it were, in numbers upon the water.
+
+The very beautiful rising and setting of the sun and the moon were many
+times the admired objects of our contemplation. Viewed from a West India
+sea, the surface of these orbs does not appear as in Europe, like a mere
+plane fixed in the sky, but their convexity, and globular form are seen
+very distinctly. When rising they appear as detached globes protruding
+from the deep: at setting they resemble distinct spheres sinking, or
+rather dropping, divested of their rays, into the ocean.
+
+The moon is brighter than in England, and reflects a clearer light. When
+only a few days old the whole orb is visible—not decked in uniform
+brightness, as when it is at the full, but with the great body in shade,
+while the horned edge, alone, is dressed in silver.
+
+The appearance of the western sky was likewise an object of novelty to
+us. By day the whole canopy is one fine azure expanse, bright and
+unclouded; but, at evening, dark mountainous clouds accumulate into deep
+masses, and impend, in awful majesty of form, over the horizon.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XVI.
+
+
+ Carlisle Bay, Feb.
+
+In pursuance of my promise I still direct my pen towards you,
+notwithstanding the uncertainty when I may be able to send away my
+letters.
+
+The period is critical and important. News from each shore of the
+Atlantic, to its opposite, is sought with the most lively anxiety. While
+you are looking to us for tidings of ourselves, of our scattered fleet,
+and of endangered islands; we, unable to relieve your suspense, are
+looking to you, with no less anxiety for intelligence of England and of
+Europe. The avidity for news, which, here, displays itself, is vivid
+beyond all I can express. Our anchor was not dropped, indeed we had
+scarcely entered the harbour before a variety of people came out, in
+boats, to meet us, and, scrambling on board, asked the news in such
+hurried solicitude as scarcely to wait for a reply, before each question
+was followed by another. What news? what news? what news of the fleet?
+what news of England? what news from the Continent? were all uttered in
+such rapid succession, that the only answer we could properly make,
+served as a general reply—“None! we have been nine weeks at sea, and
+have every intelligence to seek—none to give.”
+
+Our abrupt visitors were extremely disappointed, when, instead of being
+able to satisfy them, they found that we were equally solicitous to
+demand news of our convoy, of the Islands, and of the sailing of the
+packet for England. We could impart nothing satisfactory; and the
+information we acquired was not very gratifying. The following were the
+leading circumstances which we collected at the moment. Grenada, we were
+told, was, almost wholly, in possession of the brigands: St. Vincent in
+imminent danger from the Charibs: and Guadaloupe, if not St. Lucie, so
+strengthened by reinforcements from France as to bid us defiance.
+
+Two French frigates, and numbers of privateers had been cruising, with
+too much success, against our scattered transports and merchantmen. The
+frigates had lately been daring enough to look into the harbour of
+Carlisle Bay, and the Charon of 44 guns armed _en flute_, one of the
+earliest arrivals of the Spithead fleet, had been sent out, with La
+Pique frigate, in pursuit of them.
+
+The Leda frigate, employed to convoy a fleet of victuallers from Cork,
+had been upset in a gale, and, unhappily, sunk to the bottom with all
+hands on board, seven only excepted. These had since arrived in one of
+the victuallers, at Barbadoes; but several of the convoy, left
+unprotected by this fatal accident, had been captured by the enemy’s
+cruisers.
+
+The commander in chief was still unheard of; nor was there any accurate
+intelligence of the fleet, although a few straggling vessels had
+arrived.
+
+This was the sum of the news that greeted our arrival at Barbadoes. But
+gloomy as it was, the distressful feelings it produced were, in some
+degree, alleviated by our learning, soon afterwards, that the Brunswick,
+which had been ordered to proceed with troops to the relief of St.
+Vincent, had arrived most opportunely to save the island; and that the
+Stanley, which had sailed with the first fleet in November, and was
+supposed to have been lost, during the disastrous storm which arose in
+the channel, had arrived safely in Carlisle Bay, on Christmas day, being
+the only ship of the _November_ convoy that made good her passage; and,
+further, that nine or ten of the vessels of the _December_ convoy had
+reached Barbadoes in safety, with upwards of two thousand troops on
+board.
+
+The delight we felt on the glad occasion of setting our feet, again,
+upon terra firma was more exquisite than I can describe; and it was
+highly augmented by the novelty that surrounded us. The houses, the
+streets, the people, the fruit, fish, and vegetables, the trees, the
+fields, every thing before us, was new. The very means of labour and
+amusement were novel, and all combined to indicate the change we had
+made—all bespake our removal to a tropical latitude. We gazed on all we
+met, and all we passed. Objects which, at other moments, would have been
+trifling and unimportant, now called forth our attention. Chaos seemed
+to be renewed; and, without being able to discriminate, we contemplated,
+in anxious curiosity, this seeming change of worlds.
+
+We took our umbrellas in our hands, by way of parasols, but found less
+occasion for them than we had been taught to expect; for notwithstanding
+that the heat was greater, by several degrees, in Bridge-town, than in
+the harbour, we did not feel any degree of languor or oppression. A
+pleasant breeze counteracted the ardent rays of the sun: and, at our
+first visit, we rambled about, for two hours, with far less
+inconvenience from heat, than I have often experienced in the close and
+sultry days of England.
+
+It will be quite within your recollection how long, and how much I have
+wished to visit the ships trading to Africa, and to witness personally,
+the manner of treating those poor beings, who are torn from their native
+home, by the iron hand of commerce, to be transported to a land of
+slavery. In this wish, I have had an early opportunity of being
+gratified. A slave-ship, belonging to North America, and bound to
+Savanna in Georgia, had arrived from the coast of Guinea just before we
+came into harbour, and was lying very near to us, with a cargo of
+negroes on board. Fearing she might sail for America, and being
+unwilling to lose the first occasion that offered, of indulging our
+curiosity, Drs. Master, Cleghorn, and myself took off a boat, the
+morning after we came to anchor, and went to visit the Guinea-man. We
+found both the master and mate of the ship disposed to show us every
+civility, and to oblige us by freely replying to our questions.
+
+A little before they made Carlisle Bay, the captain and his mate had
+been taken out of their ship, and detained a whole night, on board an
+English frigate, while their papers were examined, under the suspicion
+that the vessel and cargo were Dutch property: but the property being
+proved to be American, they were released, and the ship is now taking in
+water, preparatory to pursuing her voyage to the state of Georgia.
+
+The cargo consisted of a hundred and thirty slaves, of whom two-thirds
+were males, and one third females. The two sexes were kept separate by a
+partition, or bulk-head, built from side to side, across the ship;
+allotting the _waist_ to the men, and to the women, the _quarter-deck_.
+A great majority of them were very young, being from ten to eighteen
+years of age. We were pleased to observe that an air of cheerfulness and
+contentment prevailed among them. In a few only we remarked despondency,
+and dejection of countenance. Both sexes were without apparel, having
+only a narrow band of blue cloth put round the waist, and brought from
+the back to fasten before. Many of them had marks upon the skin which
+appeared to have been made with a cutting instrument. These, we learned,
+were distinctive of the nation to which they had belonged. Some had
+their teeth cut, or filed to sharp points, giving them a very hideous,
+and canine appearance. They looked well fed and healthy, although some
+of them had an eruption, called the cra-cra, upon the skin.
+
+Their sleeping berths were the naked boards. Divided into two crowded
+parties, they reposed, during the night, upon the bare planks below—the
+males on the _main-deck_—the females upon the deck of the _aft cabin_.
+In the daytime they were not allowed to remain in the place where they
+had slept, but were kept mostly upon the open deck, where they were made
+to exercise, and encouraged, by the music of their loved banjar, to
+dancing and cheerfulness.
+
+We saw them dance, and heard them sing. In dancing they scarcely moved
+their feet, but threw about their arms, and twisted and writhed their
+bodies into a multitude of disgusting and indecent attitudes. Their song
+was a wild yell, devoid of all softness and harmony, and loudly chanted
+in harsh monotony.
+
+Their food is chiefly rice, which they prepare by plain boiling. At the
+time of messing they squat round the bowl in large bodies, upon their
+heels and haunches, like monkies, each putting his paws into the platter
+to claw out the rice with his fingers. We saw several of them employed
+in beating the red husks off the rice, which was done by pounding the
+grain in wooden mortars, with wooden pestles, sufficiently long to allow
+them to stand upright while beating in mortars placed at their feet.
+This appeared to be a labour of cheerfulness. They beat the pestle in
+tune to the song, and seemed happy; yet nothing of industry marked their
+toil, for the pounding was performed by, indolently, raising the pestle,
+and then leaving it to fall by its own weight.
+
+I am most happy to conclude my report of this visit by informing you
+that we discovered no marks of those horrors and cruelties, said to be
+practised on board the ships occupied in this sad traffic of human
+flesh; and which are represented as so frightfully augmenting the
+manifold ills of slavery. Chains, stripes, and severities did not seem
+to have been in the catalogue of means employed on conveying these poor
+Africans to their American masters. Our minds, necessarily, suffered in
+contemplating the degrading practices of civilized beings towards the
+less cultivated brethren of their species: but the eye was not shocked
+by the abuses of tyranny and inhumanity. The comfort and health of the
+slaves were promoted with every care. Being fond of washing in cold
+water, they were encouraged to the free use of it; and their persons, as
+well as the ship, were kept remarkably clean. They were plentifully fed;
+and, in the daytime, were dispersed about the vessel, so as to be
+prevented, as much as possible, from assembling together, in close
+unwholesome crowds. Mirth and gaiety were promoted among them: they were
+roused to bodily exercise, and care was used to divert their minds from
+dwelling upon their change of state, and loss of home: and I may truly
+say, that a more general air of contentment reigned among them than
+could have been expected. While many were dancing and singing, and
+playing together, others were giving their assistance in working the
+ship; and we learned that several of them had made themselves highly
+useful on the passage, and were already becoming expert sailors.
+
+They all seemed to regard the master of the vessel more in affection
+than fear; and, although strictly obedient, they did not appear to be at
+all under the influence of terror. Crowded they, necessarily, must be,
+particularly in the place where they slept; but every attention was paid
+to prevent the injury which might derive from it; and to keep them in
+health.
+
+We went down below to see their place of repose, where the hard planks
+formed one common bed, each individual employing his arm as his pillow.
+The men could not stand between decks, without stooping; and when they
+lay down, the boards were so closely covered, that that it was scarcely
+possible to set a foot between their naked bodies. They were always
+taken upon deck early in the morning, and the sleeping birth was
+thoroughly cleaned and washed: still it was highly offensive to European
+olfactories; and plainly indicated, that if it were not for the great
+attention paid to cleanliness and ventilation, disease must inevitably
+be generated. Their nakedness is, perhaps, their best security; for
+although they had neither bedclothes, nor personal covering, nor any
+kind of baggage, or furniture in the place, we perceived that all the
+cleaning and airing which were employed could not subdue the stench
+caused by their sleeping together in such crowded heaps.
+
+Although they are fond of washing, and seem to have a sense of personal
+cleanliness, they have none of cleanliness of place, nor of common
+decency: for, notwithstanding the strictest prohibition against it, they
+cannot always be prevented from the filthy habit of depositing their
+natural excretions upon the spot where they sleep.
+
+The wool of their heads forms a thick cover for vermin, of which they
+have, commonly, a swarming abundance; therefore to prevent this, and to
+further the rules of cleanliness, all their heads had been shaved: but
+this, we were told, had deprived them of a great source of occupation
+and amusement; it being a singular pleasure to them to sit down in
+pairs, for hours together, to enjoy the social feast of picking each
+other’s heads, and afterwards twisting and plaiting the wool into a
+variety of forms.
+
+The pleasure we had experienced from finding these poor blacks in a
+state of apparent contentment, and, with respect to the reported
+cruelty, enjoying a degree of comparative comfort, was succeeded by
+feelings of horror, on hearing the relation of an insurrection which had
+taken place, on board the ship, previous to their sailing from the coast
+of Africa. Many of the negroes being detained on board for a
+considerable time while the cargo was completing, and lying, during this
+period, within sight of their native shore, from which, and, perhaps,
+from their wives and families, they were about to be torn for ever, had
+grown indignant even to desperation, and rising upon the ship’s company,
+murdered the master and mate, who then belonged to the vessel, and
+wounded several of the men: nor was it until after a very severe and
+bloody contest that they were overcome; when the ringleaders were put to
+death, as an example to deter others from revolting. One of the sailors
+showed us three desperate wounds which he had received on the face, the
+breast, and the arm, from the stroke of an axe, with which one of the
+blacks had, just before, struck off the captain’s head.
+
+The next day, after our visit to the American slave-ship, an opportunity
+offered of seeing one of our own nation—a Liverpool Guinea-man; a ship
+of much greater burden, fitted out expressly for the trade, with a
+sufficient number of hands and of guns on board to protect her against
+the enemy’s privateers; and calculated for a cargo of five hundred
+slaves.
+
+We were taught to believe that we should find the negroes much better
+accommodated in this, than in the American ship; but we could not
+observe any great superiority. Although the vessel was larger, the
+number of slaves was more than proportionally greater. In other respects
+the accommodations were nearly equal. The Liverpool ship was kept
+remarkably clean; but the other was not less so; and, between the decks,
+the American vessel was the most commodious, being higher, and having
+more room in proportion to the cargo, from which the slaves had the
+advantage of being less close and confined during the night.
+
+In the sleeping-place of the English vessel we could not stand up
+without stooping almost double: in each, the men and women were kept
+separate; in both, their food was rice; and in both they slept naked
+upon the bare planks, crowded together like sheep in a fold.
+
+The most striking difference that occurred to our observation was, that
+the slaves of the Liverpool ship were of blacker and smoother skin than
+the others, and all of them free from that dirty eruption, the cra-cra;
+but upon our noticing this better appearance of one cargo than the
+other, the apparent superiority was instantly explained to us, by the
+remark that the Liverpool vessel had reached her destined port, and that
+her cargo had been made up for market, by having their skins dressed
+over three or four times with a compound of gunpowder, lime-juice, and
+oil—a preparation which not only destroys the cra-cra, and gives the
+skin a smooth, black, and polished appearance, but likewise renders it
+sleek and fine: and it was further observed, that the American cargo
+would be made to look as well, before they reached the port where they
+were to be exposed for sale.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XVII.
+
+
+ Carlisle Bay, Feb.
+
+From the details I gave you of our tedious voyage, you will learn, with
+surprise, that we still continue to live on board ship. But to this we
+have many inducements. It is much cooler in the harbour, than it is in
+Bridge-town; we are far less annoyed with musquitoes; and, from our
+belonging to the St. Domingo staff, and being in daily expectation of
+receiving orders to proceed to that island, we are, at all moments,
+ready to move, without the risk of leaving our baggage behind; moreover,
+by living on board, whilst we are detained to windward, our sea-habits
+are continued, and perhaps we may thereby avoid the tormenting sickness
+of a second voyage.
+
+We have a regular mess established. Every morning we go or send to
+market for provisions; and our domestic arrangements are better
+regulated, and in more of comfort than if we were on shore. Occasionally
+we dine, and spend the whole, or part of a day at Bridge-town, but we
+never fail to return on board to sleep.
+
+We find that the accommodations of a West India tavern, are by no means
+despicable: and you know that I am enough a traveller, rather to court
+the varieties we meet, than to regard them as hardships, because they
+are not, in every particular, the same as we are accustomed to in
+England.
+
+But you have desired to be told of these varieties as they occur, and I
+have an early opportunity of trying your patience. Our first dinner on
+shore was at a tavern in Bridge-town, kept by a mulatto woman, Mary
+Bella Green. Plenty prevailed. The crowded table smoked with fish, a
+piece of boiled beef, a pepper-pot, a turkey, some roasted veal, and a
+quarter of mutton, with several different kinds of puddings, and quite
+an assortment of vegetables, of eight or nine different species—European
+and tropical. Our liquors were most excellent bottled porter, good
+Madeira, tolerable claret, and very fine Noyeau. In the dessert we were
+sadly disappointed, for, instead of the fine tropical fruits which we
+had expected, three or four of the very common and inferior species were
+set before us, unripe, and bad in quality: viz. goavas, bananas, and
+sour-sops, with some tough, and bitter shaddocks; to all of which, the
+commonest apples, or gooseberries of Europe would have been preferable.
+But Barbadoes is not an island abounding in the finer fruits of the
+climate, hence we do not judge of the delicious productions of the West
+Indies by this ill-chosen sample.
+
+Our party, for whom we had ordered dinner, consisted of nine persons,
+but upon coming to table, we found covers for fifteen, and learned that,
+instead of giving us a private dinner, as we had directed, they had put
+us into a large public room, and served a kind of _table d’hote_. Not
+being prepared for this arrangement, we remonstrated against it, and,
+with some difficulty, prevailed in having the extra-covers removed; but
+we soon perceived that we had gained little by thus interrupting the
+customs of the house: for they, directly, spread another table in the
+same room, and, setting down the six strangers close by us, divided the
+dinner, between the two parties.
+
+In making out their bill for payment, they do not detail the separate
+articles of the dinner, the number of bottles of wine, the different
+plates of fruit, &c. as in England, but put down the whole sum, under
+the three general items of _dinner_, _wine_, and _fruit_; and, at any
+house you are accustomed to use, if you call, occasionally, in a morning
+to rest, or to take shelter from the sun, or rain, they give you a glass
+of lemonade, or of coco-nut water, with a “_very welcome_,” and consider
+themselves rewarded, by the payment you make when you take dinner at the
+house. Nor is the demand for this at all extravagant, except, in so far
+as regards the bad fruit. We paid a dollar each for dinner; the same for
+the wine; and half a dollar for the dessert.
+
+They make the wine and porter pleasantly cool, by putting the bottles in
+wet cloth bags, and placing them in the open windows, for some time
+before dinner; taking care to sprinkle them, occasionally, with water,
+as they stand exposed to the breeze. A rapid evaporation is thus
+produced, and, consequently, far more heat carried off, than by merely
+setting the bottles in cold water. The porter is so highly improved by
+the climate, and rendered so grateful, by this method of cooling, as to
+be superior to any that is drank in England.
+
+The attendants of the table are very numerous, black and yellow, male
+and female; perhaps too numerous to serve you well; for they are badly
+regulated, and the duty of one being that of all, it is not regarded as
+the particular duty of either, and, consequently, is apt to be left
+unheeded. Each, being idle and inactive, waits for another to step
+before him, when any thing is called for; and, although you have a crowd
+of servants present, it is difficult to obtain what you want.
+
+The females are, mostly, of erect figure, and stately carriage, but they
+move in all the languor of the climate. They appear without shoes and
+stockings, in a short white jacket, and a thin short petticoat. They
+wear a white turban on the head; but the neck and shoulders are left
+bare. Silence is not esteemed a necessary qualification among them, for
+they often join with great freedom, and a sad drawling accent, in the
+conversation of the table. This will appear to you but little consistent
+with the reserve and abject forbearance of slavery; but it is the
+consequence of the public situation in which these women are placed, and
+the familiarity that is commonly used towards them by strangers; to any,
+or all of whom they are the very obliging, and _most obedient_ humble
+servants.
+
+On first making inquiry, respecting the accommodations of the house, we
+were surprised to learn their extent, and the facility with which they
+are attainable. A bed may be had for half a dollar per night, or three
+dollars per week; and, for an additional sum well understood, the choice
+of an attendant to draw the curtains.
+
+The hostess of the tavern is, usually, a black, or mulatto woman who has
+been the favored enamorata of some _backra_[2] man; from whom she has
+obtained her freedom, and perhaps two or three slaves to assist her in
+carrying on the business of the house; where she now indulges in the
+good things of life, grows fat, and feels herself of importance in
+society. To those who, in compliance with the Highgate privilege, seek
+her services in preference to those of the persons employed by her, she
+is supposed not to be impolite.
+
+It is to her advantage that the female assistants in her family should
+be as handsome as she can procure them. Being slaves, the only
+recompense of their services, is the food they eat, the hard bed they
+sleep on, and the few loose clothes which are hung upon them. One
+privilege, indeed, is allowed them, which, you will be shocked to know,
+is that of tenderly disposing of their persons. This offers the only
+hope they have of procuring a sum of money, wherewith to purchase their
+freedom: it is so common a resource among them, that neither shame nor
+disgrace attaches to it; but, on the contrary, she who is most sought,
+becomes an object of envy, and is proud of the distinction shown her.
+
+One of our attendants at table, appeared, both from her conversation and
+behaviour, to be very superior to her degraded station. She had nothing
+of beauty, nor even prettiness of face, but she was of good figure, and
+of respectable and interesting demeanor, and, in point of intellect, far
+above her colleagues. Together with gentleness of manner, and an easy,
+pleasant address, she possesses a degree of understanding and ability
+which claims respect. In principle, and in sentiment, she appeared
+virtuous; and, from the frankness of her replies, it was evident that
+she knew no sense of wrong in her conduct. We could not but lament that
+the imperious habits of the country did not allow of her being a more
+respectable member of society.
+
+This woman is the great support of the house—the bar-maid, and leading
+manager of the family. Her mistress had refused to take a hundred
+guineas for her; which, she assured us, had been offered by a gentleman
+who would have purchased her. She has a very lively interesting little
+daughter, a Mestee about four years old. Of this child she spake with
+great tenderness, and seemed to bear it all the fond attachment of an
+affectionate parent. Yet, as the infant was born in slavery, should the
+mother, by any means, obtain her own freedom, she cannot claim her
+child; but must leave it, still the disposable property of her mistress,
+equally liable to be sold as any other piece of furniture in the house:
+for, in Barbadoes, the offspring of a woman in slavery becomes the
+absolute property of the owner to whom the mother belongs, whether it be
+black, yellow, or white; as the law knows no period when the child of a
+slave shall be born free, however removed from the African: nor can the
+mother, under any circumstances of subsequent liberation, claim her
+infant from its owner, even though it should be of fairer skin than the
+fairest European. Thus are the natural ties of our species torn asunder;
+and the dearest attachments, and purest affections of the heart cruelly
+broken down! Babes are separated from their parents, and mothers robbed
+of their children, by this unnatural appropriation of human substance!
+
+The manners, and the circumstances attending the situation of this
+mulatto were strongly interesting. Her whole deportment bespake a degree
+of refinement, with a superiority of understanding; and indicated
+talents capable of high improvement. Probably, if fortune had so placed
+her in life, as to have offered her the acquirements of a chaste and
+cultivated education, this woman, notwithstanding the colour of her
+skin, would have made a faithful and virtuous wife; been an ornament to
+her friends and society; and a blessing to the man who should have made
+her the partner of his hours.
+
+The taverns are commonly known by the names of the persons who keep
+them. The most frequented, at Bridge-town, are those of Nancy Clarke,
+and Mary Bella Green; the former a black—the latter a mulatto woman.
+Mrs. Clarke, or Mrs. Green would scarcely be known! A party is said to
+dine at Mary Bella Green’s, or at Nancy Clarke’s; or, more concisely, at
+_Mary Bella_’s or at _Nancy_’s. The title _Mrs._ seems to be reserved,
+solely, for the ladies from Europe, and the white creoles, and to form a
+distinction between them and the women of colour of all descriptions;
+none of whom, of whatever shade or degree, are dignified with this
+appellation.
+
+In the evening, after taking our first dinner on shore, Dr. Cleghorn and
+myself made a walk to visit the hospitals and barracks at St. Anne’s
+Hill; on our way back to Bridge-town, we were accosted by two negro
+girls of respectable appearance, sitting upon the step of a gentleman’s
+gateway, by the road side.
+
+Being just arrived in a land of slavery, and feeling desirous to
+converse with the Africans, and their descendants, in order to ascertain
+whether any deficiency of intellect, or inferiority of natural capacity
+was observable among them, we gladly passed a few minutes, in
+conversation with these decent-looking young slaves. They were the
+property of the gentleman, at whose gate they were sitting; and were
+employed as house servants, or as they are here termed,
+“_house-wenches_[3],” in his family.
+
+Trifling as it is, I give you the conversation as it passed, divesting
+it only of the broken accent, with which our language is spoken by the
+negroes. It will serve to show you that the replies were not inapposite:
+and perhaps not inferior to what might have been expected, from the
+common order of people in Europe. One of the girls was about sixteen,
+the other eighteen years of age. They conversed with ease and
+affability, but were very respectful and unassuming; and their whole
+conduct might have done credit to European servants, not of the lowest
+class.
+
+On our asking to whom they belonged, they replied, “We belong to Col.
+B.’s lady.” Is this Col. B.’s house? “Yes; but the Col. is not at
+home—he is gone to England.” How does it happen that you are sitting
+here, instead of being in the house at work? “Our work, for to-day, is
+finished, and we came to the gate to see the strangers, as they pass
+by.” What strangers? “The strangers, who are come with the army, from
+Old England.” Do you like to meet strangers? “Oh! yes, yes!” And to talk
+with them? “Yes, if they talk with us.” Are the people, here, kind to
+strangers? “Oh, yes! it is always our custom: every body should be more
+kind to strangers than to their own people.” Why so?—should we not be
+kind to every body? “Yes! we should be kind to every body, but we should
+be more kind to strangers, because they come far from their own home,
+and their friends; and because we may some time travel ourselves, and
+want kindness from others.” Have you ever been far from your home? “No!
+but, perhaps, we may some day.” How far have you ever travelled from
+your master’s house? “Never more than five miles.” Did you ride or walk?
+They both smiled, and hung down their heads. No reply could have been
+more expressive, or better understood! “Ride! a slave ride! you are
+strangers here indeed! No! we walked, bore our burden on our backs, and
+journeyed on our naked feet!” We bade them good night, and walked on,
+pleased with the rencontre.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XVIII.
+
+
+ Carlisle Bay, Feb.
+
+The office of caterer for the mess having fallen to the lot of your
+friend, I may tell you that I sometimes go to Bridge-town, to buy living
+meat for dinner. You will, perhaps, be surprised to learn that, here,
+animals are brought alive into the market, to be killed after the
+different joints are sold: and, that it often happens, that the meat is
+slaughtered, consigned to the pot or spit, brought to table, and eaten,
+without growing cold!
+
+The filthy custom of blowing the meat, is carried to greater excess at
+Barbadoes, than in England. As soon as the calf is dead, a small opening
+is cut near to the hock, and the whole surface is inflated like a
+full-blown bladder. The skin is then taken off, and the meat distributed
+to the purchasers for immediate use.
+
+Leaving our comrades, Weir, and Master, on board, Cleghorn and myself
+frequently make excursions on shore, and stroll about the town and the
+fields, by way of exercise, and of gratifying a strong curiosity to see
+and know all that appertains to the change we have made. In these
+rumblings, we often surprise the West Indians, by, what they term, the
+dangerous extent of our walks; and they assure us that, a few months
+hence, we shall be little inclined to use such _violent_ exercise. A
+walk of five or six miles appears to them _tremendous_: but we suffer no
+inconvenience from it, and, without being, yet, well able to judge, we
+fancy that much of the languor and inactivity of the creoles and
+creolised, might be prevented, and stronger health enjoyed, if they were
+to accustom themselves, more freely, to habits of activity. Against our
+theory they urge experience, remarking that all Europeans, however fond
+of using much exercise, on their first arrival, gradually lapse into the
+same indolent indulgence as the natives.
+
+After one of these excursions we returned to Bridge-town, by way of
+Pilgrim, the residence of the governor; a pleasant home, situated upon
+an elevated spot, about a mile from the town. Near this place our
+attention was arrested by a party of slaves, or, according to the
+language of the island, a _gang of negroes_, who were employed in making
+a road to the governor’s house. It was the first large body of slaves we
+had met with, toiling at their regular employment, immediately under the
+lash of the whip; and we could not but remark that the manner of
+executing the task afforded a striking example of the effect of climate,
+and of slavery. Nothing of diligence, or industry appeared among them;
+and but little of bodily labour was expended. They seemed almost too
+idle to raise the hammer, which they let fall by its own weight,
+repeating the blow several times, upon the same stone, until it was
+broken to pieces. A mulatto overseer attended them, holding a whip at
+their backs; but he had every appearance of being as much a stranger to
+industry, as the negroes; who proceeded very indolently, without seeming
+to be at all apprehensive of the driver or his whip, except when he made
+it fall across them in stripes.
+
+In proportion to the work done by English labourers, and the price,
+usually, paid for it, the labour of these slaves could not be calculated
+at so much as twopence per day; for almost any two men in England would
+do as much work in a given time, as was performed by a dozen of these
+wretched, meager-looking _blacks_.
+
+In our perambulations, we often witness gross and disgusting scenes
+among the slaves. Lately we saw a naked washing party, whose skins
+exhibited very indecently the crowded scars of repeated punishment.
+Women are sometimes seen milking themselves, as they walk along the
+streets, and both sexes are observed lying about in pairs, picking the
+vermin from each others heads.
+
+You will be more shocked, perhaps, than surprised that such-like
+indecencies should be practised among the slaves; but you will join in
+my regret that they should happen before the eyes of European wives, and
+spinsters; and will lament the sad effect which the frequent recurrence
+of such offensive exhibitions must, necessarily, have in destroying that
+modesty and delicacy of sentiment, which render so truly lovely, while
+they so much embellish the female mind.
+
+Of this baneful effect, I am sorry to have it in my power to mention a
+striking example, which lately occurred to my notice. Being in company
+with a large party of Europeans, and white creoles, friends and
+strangers, male and female, husbands, wives, widows, and maidens, it
+happened at the time when the party was assembled, during the short
+interval before dinner, that a sweet little babe, only a few months old,
+was brought into the room, by its black nurse, to be presented to the
+company; when the woman, who, with the exception of one short petticoat,
+was in perfect nudity, was desired, before all present, to suckle the
+child; and at the same time the mother and grandmother, two most
+respectable ladies, in order to divert the infant, amused themselves by
+slapping, pressing, shaking about, and playing with the flaccid breasts
+of the slave, with very indelicate familiarity, and without seeming to
+be at all sensible, that it was, in any degree, indecent or improper!
+
+One day, in passing along the street, we chanced to see a fight between
+two women of colour, one a negro, the other a mulatto. The crowd, about
+them, was very great, and European curiosity induced us to wait the
+result; but we have no desire to witness such another contest. You can
+have no conception of the ferocious means which were used by these women
+to injure each other. Not only biting, pinching, slapping, and
+scratching were employed; but with the more horrid brutality of the
+American gouchers, and in the most deliberate manner, did each of these
+females thrust her thumb or fingers into the nose, mouth, or eyes, of
+the other, striving, in all the bitterness and cruelty of savage nature,
+to tear to pieces, to blind, or to maim her opponent.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XIX.
+
+
+ Barbadoes, Feb.
+
+It is Sunday, and, separated by the wide Atlantic, I take up my pen to
+hallow the sabbath to my friend. Mentally I am every day in your
+society: but on the sabbath I breathe a still warmer aspiration to dear
+England, and sanctify the wish that we were, personally, nearer. Were
+you here to participate, with me, the novel scenes which occur to my
+observation, they would have a double interest, and I should find a
+charm in many things which now convey only a languid impression.
+
+This is a day of festivity among the slaves. They are passionately fond
+of dancing; and Sunday offering them an interval from toil, is,
+generally, devoted to their favorite amusement. Instead of remaining at
+rest, they undergo more fatigue, or at least more personal exertion,
+during their gala hours of Saturday night and Sunday, than is demanded
+from them, in labour, during any four days of the week.
+
+They assemble, in crowds, upon the open green, or in any square or
+corner of the town, and, forming a ring in the centre of the throng,
+dance to the sound of their beloved music, and the singing of their
+favorite African yell. Both music and dance are of a savage nature.
+Their songs are very simple, but harsh and devoid of melody.
+
+The instrumental parts of the band consist of a species of drum, a kind
+of rattle, and the ever-delighting banjar. The first is a long hollow
+piece of wood, with a dried sheep-skin tied over the end; the second is
+a calabash containing a number of small stones, fixed to a short stick
+which serves as the handle; and the third is a coarse and rough kind of
+guitar. While one negro strikes the banjar, another shakes the rattle
+with great force of arm; a third sitting across the body of the drum, as
+it lies lengthwise upon the ground, beats and kicks the sheep-skin at
+the end, in violent exertion with his hands and heels; and a fourth
+sitting upon the ground at the other end, behind the man upon the drum,
+beats upon the wooden sides of it with two sticks. Together with these
+noisy sounds, numbers of the party of both sexes bawl forth their dear
+delighting song with all possible force of lungs: from the _tout
+ensemble_ of the scene, a spectator would require only a slight aid from
+fancy to transport him to the savage wilds of Africa. On great occasions
+the band is increased by an additional number of drums, rattles, and
+voices.
+
+The dance consists of stampings of the feet, twistings of the body, and
+a number of strange indecent attitudes. It is a severe bodily
+exertion—more bodily indeed than you can well imagine, for the limbs
+have little to do in it. The head is held erect, or, occasionally,
+inclined a little forward; the hands nearly meet before; the elbows are
+fixed, pointing from the sides; and, the lower extremities being held
+rigid, the whole person is moved without lifting the feet from the
+ground. Making the head and limbs fixed points, they writhe and turn the
+body upon its own axis, slowly advancing towards each other, or
+retreating to the outer parts of the ring. Their approaches, with the
+figure of the dance, and the attitudes and inflexions in which they are
+made, are highly indecent: but of this they seem to be wholly
+unconscious, for the gravity, I might say the solemnity of countenance,
+under which all this passes, is peculiarly striking, indeed almost
+ridiculous. Not a smile, not a significant glance, nor an immodest look
+escapes from either sex: but they meet, in very indecent attitudes,
+under the most settled, and unmeaning gravity of countenance.
+Occasionally they change the figure by stamping upon the feet, or making
+a more general movement of the person, but these are only temporary
+variations; the twistings and turnings of the body seeming to constitute
+the supreme excellence of the dance.
+
+For the most part only two enter the ring at a time, but, occasionally,
+as many as three or four; each making a small contribution to the band
+at the time of stepping into the circle. They dance, violently, together
+until one is tired, and when this escapes from the circle another
+assumes the place, thus continuing to follow, one by one, in succession,
+so as frequently to keep up the dance, without any interval, for several
+hours.
+
+The musicians and dancers equally delight in the amusement. They exert
+themselves until their skins pour off copious streams. The band seem
+quite insensible to fatigue, for in proportion as the fluid distils from
+their pores, they increase their efforts, raising their voices, and
+beating the drum and the rattle, with additional violence; and such of
+the spectators whose olfactories have no relish for African odours, are
+sadly annoyed by the high-essenced exhalation which spreads itself
+around.
+
+As I was looking on, at one of these dances, I observed a soldier’s
+wife, from the north of Tweed, gazing with curiosity and astonishment
+amidst the throng; and seeing her features marked with surprise and
+dissatisfaction, I asked her what she thought of the African dance.
+“_Oot_,” said she, “_’tis an unco way o’ spending the sabbath night._”
+And on my asking her if there were any as pretty women in the Highlands
+of Scotland, she, instantly, replied, “_Whether or not—they smell
+better._”
+
+Presently a soldier, passing that way, and observing the dance, asked a
+mulatto who was standing by, for a cud of tobacco, and twisting it
+between his lower lip and his teeth, forced his path, through the crowd,
+into the middle of the ring; and there placing himself, between the
+negro and the girl who were dancing, set the nymph in African step and
+figure. Wowski was responsive, and they danced, cordially, together; but
+soon finished by footing it, in quick step, from the ring, happily
+enfolded in each others’ arms, to the great disappointment of poor
+Sambo; who, no doubt, thought to regain his partner as soon as the
+soldier had grown tired in the dance.
+
+Near this merry green I witnessed a sad fracas between a negro man and
+woman, in consequence of gaming; which is a very prevailing passion
+among the blacks.
+
+Having led you to the loud song, and sprightly dance of the slaves, let
+me now conduct you to their bed of death. Seeing a crowd in one of the
+streets, and observing a kind of procession, we joined the multitude,
+and soon found ourselves in the train of a negro funeral. Wishing to be
+present at the ceremony of interment, we proceeded to the burial-ground,
+with the throng. The corpse was conveyed in a neat small hearse, drawn
+by one horse. Six boys, twelve men, and forty-eight women walked behind,
+in pairs, as followers, but I cannot say as deeply afflicted mourners.
+The females were neatly clad, for the occasion, being mostly in white.
+Grief and lamentations were not among them: nor was even the semblance
+thereof assumed. No solemn dirge was heard: no deep-sounding bell was
+tolled: no fearful silence held. It seemed a period of mirth and joy!
+Instead of weeping and bewailing, the attendants jumped and sported, as
+they passed along, and talked and laughed, with each other, in high
+festivity. The procession was closed by five robust negro fishermen, who
+came behind playing antic gambols, and dancing all the way to the grave.
+
+At the gate of the burying-ground the corpse was taken from the hearse,
+and borne by eight negroes, not upon their shoulders, but upon four
+clean white napkins placed under the coffin. The body was committed to
+the grave, immediately on reaching it, without either prayer or
+ceremony; and the coffin, directly, covered with earth. In doing this,
+much decent attention was preserved. The mould was not shovelled in
+roughly with the spade, almost disturbing the dead, with the rattling of
+stones and bones upon the coffin, but was first put into a basket, and
+then carefully emptied into the grave; an observance which might be
+adopted in England very much to the comfort of the afflicted friends of
+the deceased.
+
+During this process an old negro woman chanted an African air, the
+multitude joining in chorus. It was not in the strain of a solemn
+requiem, but was loud and lively, in unison with the other gaieties of
+the occasion.
+
+Many were laughing and sporting all the time with the fishermen, who
+danced and gambolled upon the neighbouring graves during the ceremony.
+From the moment the coffin was committed to the earth, nothing of order
+was maintained by the party: but the attendants dispersed in various
+directions, retiring, or remaining, during the filling up of the grave,
+as inclination seemed to lead.
+
+When the whole of the earth was replaced, several of the women, who had
+stayed to chant, in merry song, over poor Jenny’s remains, took up each
+a handful of the mould, and threw it down upon the grave of their
+departed friend, as the finishing of the ceremony, crying aloud, “_God
+bless you, Jenny! good-by! remember me to all friends t’ other side of
+the sea, Jenny! Tell ’em me come soon! Good-by, Jenny, good-by! See for
+send me good——to-night, Jenny! Good-by, good night, Jenny, good-by!_”
+All this was uttered in mirth and laughter, and accompanied with
+attitudes and gesticulations expressive of any thing but sorrow or
+sadness.
+
+From the grave-digger we learned that poor Jenny had been a washerwoman,
+and that the females who had, so merrily, sounded her requiem, had been
+her sud associates. They had full faith in Jenny’s transmigration to
+meet her friends, at her place of nativity: and their persuasion that
+death was only a removal from their present to their former home; a mere
+change from a state of slavery to a state of freedom; did not barely
+alleviate, but wholly prevented the natural grief and affliction arising
+from the loss of a friend. They confidently expected to hear from poor
+Jenny, or to know her influence in the way they most desired, before
+morning.
+
+The faith of these poor ignorant slaves, regarding a happy
+transmigration, after death, might seem calculated to lead them to the
+crime of suicide; and, this effect of their superstition is said not to
+have been unfrequent among them. A tale is told of a singular remedy
+having been practised against this fatal proceeding of the negroes.
+Several individuals of a gang having hanged themselves in order to
+escape from a cruel master; and others being about to avoid his
+severities by similar means, he prevented them, by the happy expedient
+of threatening to hang himself, also, and to transmigrate, with them,
+carrying the whip in his hand, into their own country; where he would
+punish them ten times more severely than he had hitherto done. The
+stratagem is said to have succeeded. Finding they could not, thus,
+escape from the tyrannic lash, they resolved, rather than receive
+disgraceful stripes, among their African friends, to continue their
+existence under all the hardships of slavery.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XX.
+
+
+ Barbadoes, Feb.
+
+Having fatigued you, in my late letters, with tedious notes, concerning
+the slaves and their customs, I feel happy to have it in my power to
+introduce you to the society of their masters. Through the friendly
+medium of Mr. Benjamin Hinde, a merchant of great respectability in
+Bridge-town, we have been made known to several gentlemen who reside in
+the country, and are of importance in the island: and who, with the most
+liberal and friendly hospitality, offer us the means of seeing the whole
+of Barbadoes, and of witnessing the customs and manners of its
+inhabitants. It were unnecessary to remark that this will be a great
+source of gratification, and will lead us to rejoice in the event, while
+we lament the cause of our delay.
+
+We have made a ride about four miles into the country, to dine with one
+of our professional brethren, Dr. Hinde, a man of high acquirements, and
+sound knowledge. He was educated in England, and remained many years, in
+the prosecution of his studies, at Cambridge. Until lately he employed
+himself in the practice of medicine, at Bridge-town; but he has now
+retired, in great part, from the fatigues of medical occupation, to
+engage in the more genial, and more lucrative employment of a planter.
+To the inhabitants of the town this is a severe loss; and they, justly,
+lament the absence of a man not less endeared to them by his urbanity
+and private worth, than by his eminent professional talents.
+
+We enjoyed exceedingly the ride to the doctor’s estate; which is
+situated upon much higher ground than the immediate environs of
+Bridge-town; the country rising towards the interior of the island, in
+elevated ranges of distinct table-land. At one spot we ascended by a
+very steep road, and, having reached the summit of the acclivity, found
+ourselves again upon an extensive plain. Soon afterwards we came to
+another rocky precipice, and having mounted this, by a path of difficult
+ascent, we arrived upon another, and still higher range of table-land.
+From the points of these sudden elevations we commanded extensive and
+pleasing views of the country below, of Bridge-town, of the sea, and of
+the shipping in Carlisle Bay.
+
+The land is cultivated in open fields: hedges, walls, and all the usual
+fences seem to be unknown; nor does the eye discover any distinct
+separation of the different estates; but it ranges, uninterrupted, over
+a wide-extended surface, richly spread with the various productions of a
+tropical soil, and pleasantly interpersed with the mansions of the
+_whites_, and the huts of the _blacks_. Cotton, pigeon pease, and Guinea
+corn, constitute the chief produce of this part of the island. Some
+fields of aloes, and of plantains, were also seen: but a degree of
+nakedness was perceptible from the want of wood, of which there is not a
+sufficiency to give a general richness to the landscape, although about
+the great _Backra_-houses there are several fine groves of the coco-nut
+and the majestic mountain-cabbage trees.
+
+We arrived about two o’clock, having made our ride in the strongest heat
+of the day; but from the purity and freshness of the air, and from the
+country being more elevated, as we advanced, we felt no degree of
+languor or oppression, from a full exposure to the sun. At the doctor’s
+house, in consequence of the situation and construction of the building,
+we felt it cooler than either in Bridge-town, or Carlisle Bay. The party
+at dinner consisted of eight ladies, and fourteen gentlemen; the
+attendants were also numerous, yet, notwithstanding the number of
+persons in the room, and the many smoking dishes on the table, the
+steady perflation of the breeze kept us sufficiently cool.
+
+The day passed most pleasantly: all was harmony and good cheer. The
+hospitality which supplied the feast, enriched its flavour; and the
+entertainment was highly graced by the urbanity and attentive politeness
+of the doctor and his lady. On our way back to Bridge-town, in the
+evening, we perceived the air to be more close and oppressive, and the
+heat greater as we descended from each plain of table-land; so that the
+difference we felt between breathing in the town, and in the cool breeze
+of the country was very striking, and led us to felicitate the doctor on
+having so advantageously exchanged physic for sugar, and the confined
+streets of the town for the open hills of the country.
+
+It was the season of the cane harvest, and Dr. Hinde, kindly seeking our
+gratification, had contrived that the works should be going, in order
+that we might witness the method by which the juice is separated from
+the plants, and afterwards prepared into sugar. We also visited the
+distilling house, and inspected the apparatus for making the rum; hence,
+we had, this day, an opportunity of observing the progressive steps from
+the cutting of the canes, to the converting of their fluid parts into
+sugar and rum. At some more leisure moment, perhaps, I may note for you
+the whole of the process.
+
+We made our excursion in single-horse chaises, like those, with leather
+tops, used in England; from which they only differ by having the
+leather, at the sides and the back, made to roll up, and let down at
+pleasure, for the twofold purpose of admitting the air, and excluding
+the rain. We were attended by slaves as running footmen, whose duty it
+was to travel as fast as we did, and to be in readiness to hold the
+bridles, or stand at the horses’ heads, at any spot where we might
+chance to alight, or to pause. They were equal in number to our horses,
+but as we were unaccustomed both to running footmen, and to slaves, we
+had strong feelings of compunction respecting these pedestrian pages;
+and from seeing them run, and pant, exposed to the mid-day heat of a
+tropical sun, merely for our convenience, it became so painfully
+annoying to us, that we lost all sense of comfort and enjoyment: Dr.
+Cleghorn and myself, therefore, stopped to desire that they would get
+up, alternately, and ride behind our chaise. Two of them, only, accepted
+the offer; all the others continued to walk or run throughout the
+journey.
+
+Upon our mentioning to the gentlemen of the island our uneasiness
+respecting these sable attendants, they smiled at our European
+_tenderness_, and assured us, that, so far from it being a fatigue or
+hardship to them, they always hailed such an excursion as a holiday, and
+preferred it to remaining quietly at home. We could not, for an instant,
+dispute the information; but from believing that this violent exercise,
+under the excessive heat, must have been fatal to ourselves, and not
+being such experienced West Indians as to know how very differently it
+affected the negroes, we could not regard them without strong feelings
+of discomfort.
+
+At one spot, in the course of our ride, we had our attention arrested by
+observing a party of four, almost naked, females working in a cane
+field. Curiosity would not allow us to pass on without devoting to them
+a moment of particular regard. We, therefore, went a little off the road
+to approach them nearer; when we found that they were labouring with the
+hoe, to dig, or cut up the ground, preparatory to the planting of sugar;
+and that a stout robust-looking man, apparently white, was following
+them, holding a whip at their backs. Observing that he was the only one
+of the party who was idle, we inquired why he did not partake of the
+task, and were told, in reply, that it was not his business—that he had
+only to keep the women at work, and to make them feel the weight of the
+whip if they grew idle, or relaxed from their labour.
+
+Impulsive nature was roused at this information, and we felt shocked and
+indignant, at seeing a man, apparently strong enough to do as much work
+as the whole of the four, employed in the sole occupation of brandishing
+the whip over these poor degraded females. Reverting to the protection
+demanded from us, by the tender sex, we forgot for a moment, all the
+circumstances of the country we were in, and, indulging in a train of
+European sentiments, could not refrain from rebuking the man! Reflection
+whispered “_he is but on duty_;” still I confess that I must remain long
+in a land of slavery, before I can witness such a scene, without feeling
+a strong desire to take the whip from the fellow’s hand, and lay the
+lash across his shoulders, until he shall relieve the women, by, at
+least, partaking of their toil.
+
+Notwithstanding the alarm of our Barbadoes acquaintance, Dr. Cleghorn
+and myself continue our walks, by rambling about the fields, and the
+paths, in the environs of Bridge-town, at an early hour of the morning:
+nor do we feel more fatigue than we might experience from the same
+degree of exercise in Europe. We walked lately from six till nine
+o’clock, and if you had the opportunity of consulting our stately
+mulatto attendant, at Mary Bella Green’s, you would learn that we
+exhibited no marks of a diminished appetite at breakfast-time.
+
+Near the sea we were protected from the great force of the sun by the
+shade of trees, whose leaves and trunk very much resembled the common
+pear-tree of England; but whose fruit was, in form, a correct likeness
+of the apple. We knew not that it was forbidden, but had enough of
+caution to avoid tasting it. However I gathered a small branch, bearing
+fruit and leaves, and put it into my pocket as a specimen, from which we
+might ascertain what tree it was. Soon afterwards we met a negro, and
+upon our showing it to him, and asking its name, he, instantly,
+exclaimed with alarm, “_Ah, Massa, dat poison—dat no good for nhyaam—dat
+daamm manchineel, Massa._” Finding that I had fostered a serpent, I
+directly threw away every leaf, and every apple; but I discovered that,
+like other insidious foes, manchineel had quickly diffused its poison,
+and I afterwards smarted for my curiosity. Either my handkerchief, or my
+gloves had imbibed the offensive particles, and from having incautiously
+used them, my lips and face burnt for many hours after, with all the
+scorchings of cantharidistical acrimony; also from their having reached
+the tongue and fauces I was thrown into a copious salivation, and my
+mouth and throat were much swoln, and throbbed with fiery heat
+throughout the morning.
+
+Near the sea we saw likewise some other trees, bearing a fruit very like
+grapes; but experience of the manchineel made us cautious in gathering
+further specimens of tropical production. Some negroes, whom we met,
+informed us that they were called sea-grapes, and were used as fruit;
+upon which we ventured to gather a few of them, and found that they were
+of pleasant flavour. In the course of the same walk we met with a fine
+avenue of coco-nut trees, bordered with the aloe and the plantain. This
+was not to be resisted. We could not forego the pleasure of exploring
+the extent of this delightful shade, therefore proceeded to its utmost
+depth; when we found that it led to a gentleman’s house, from which, as
+we approached, the lord of the mansion came out, to bid us welcome, and
+to tender us the courtesies of hospitality. We accepted the very
+grateful refreshment of a fine shaddock, pulled fresh from the tree; and
+the gentleman, kindly, conducted us to the plantain-ground, the
+negro-yard, and different parts of the house and estate.
+
+We had, before, seen many negro huts, some shaded by the sea-grape, some
+sheltered by the broad and balmy leaf of the plantain, some protected by
+the umbrageous coco-nut, and some standing amidst the open fields,
+exposed to the full ardor of the sun: but all these were of a mean
+order, straggling, and dispersed, and bearing no kind of resemblance to
+the collective abode, constructed for the slaves of this estate.
+
+It is common at the plantations to allot a small piece of ground, at a
+short distance from the house, to the use of the negroes. This is called
+the negro-yard. Here the slaves are allowed to build themselves small
+huts to live in, but they are, commonly, of very coarse construction,
+and are dark, close, and smoky. At the estate I now speak of, a circular
+piece of ground was appropriated as the negro-yard, but instead of the
+slaves being left to construct their own habitations, sixteen very neat
+and uniform cabins were erected of wood, and well roofed with
+shingles[4]. Placed in eight divisions they form a hollow octagon, a
+free opening being left for the breeze at one end of each hut. In the
+centre of the octagon is built a common kitchen, which serves for all
+the sixteen families. The huts are neat, and the whole premises wear an
+air of order, and of cleanliness, not common to the abode of slaves.
+
+We contemplated this spot with much satisfaction, and were gratified in
+observing the high degree of attention, which was here given to the
+comfort and accommodation of the negroes; who had little cause to lament
+their removal from the wild woods of an opposite shore; and could
+scarcely desire to change their present lot for the high-rated freedom
+of European paupers.
+
+This happy negro-yard forms, as it were, a complete village of sixteen
+families, all of whom may assemble, each evening, after the labour of
+the day, to join in the merry dance, or to smoke and sing together, free
+from every care. They have no thought how to provide for their infants,
+or their aged parents; nor have they to seek either food, habitation, or
+apparel. To each family is allotted a separate, and to all a common
+home; the necessary food and clothing are issued to them; and they know
+none of the anxious vexations or difficulties of the world. No fearful
+concern, nor harassing incumbrance can arise to them on account of their
+offspring, who, like themselves, are furnished with all that is needful;
+and those who have most children find themselves most valued and
+esteemed. In sickness, medical attendance is provided for them, and
+whatever is required is administered without any trouble on their own
+behalf. Thus are they guarded, at every avenue, against the approach of
+want and solicitude. Six days labour is demanded from them in the week;
+but the sabbath is given them as a day of rest and relaxation; and, from
+the total absence of care, it is usually spent in unbounded mirth and
+festivity.
+
+In the course of our walks we have met with a washing party, and as you
+desire to know all that occurs, whether of much or little importance, I
+may tell you that, in this operation of cleaning, our linen is beaten
+and rubbed, and scrubbed to pieces in a most unmerciful manner, and,
+after all, without being made, even, tolerably clean.
+
+The following is the process employed: the linen is first put into a
+tub, and rubbed through some water, then it is taken out and sprinkled
+with sand, previous to being pressed and beaten with a piece of wood,
+upon a coarse large stone, by the side of the river; after which it is
+rubbed out in the open stream. Next it is sprinkled with the fine white
+sand of the shore, and spread by the sea to whiten; then it receives
+another dipping in water; and, finally, is rinsed out in the wide
+channel of the river. From the rough treatment it undergoes, it seldom
+comes home without being torn into various rents and holes. The demand
+made for this rude cleaning is _a bit_ for each piece, without any
+regard to its size, or the labour required. A dozen shirts are washed
+for _twelve bits_, or, according to our coin, for twelve sixpences, and
+for the washing of a dozen pocket-handkerchiefs we pay the same.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XXI.
+
+
+ Barbadoes, Feb.
+
+We have made another very delightful excursion, and find this little
+island more interesting and picturesque than my pen can tell you. Being
+invited to form a party to the plantation of Col. Williams, and to go
+early, in order that we might extend our ride to some of the most
+beautiful spots of the island, before dinner, Drs. Cleghorn, and Master,
+and myself rose in time to leave the ship at 5 o’clock. On arriving at
+Bridge-town we found slaves, horses, and all the requisites of the
+expedition, provided by the friendly attention of Mr. B. Hinde, under
+whose guidance we placed ourselves for the journey.
+
+We went to the house of his brother before breakfast, where the table
+was spread, and the doctor waiting to receive us, prepared to join the
+party; as was also Mr. Abel Hinde, another of his brothers. After amply
+satisfying our morning appetites, we proceeded towards Col. Williams’s,
+which is some miles further. The sun had become more powerful than we
+had felt it on our way from Bridge-town to the doctor’s; but we
+gradually ascended to higher land, and coming into a mountainous part of
+the country, the breeze was sufficiently strong to prevent all sense of
+languor or oppression.
+
+A little before we reached the abode of Col. Williams, we passed through
+a field where a large gang of negroes was employed in cutting canes.
+This proved a seasonable refreshment to us, for we had grown thirsty,
+and were glad to adopt the Barbadoes custom of giving our whips to the
+slaves, and taking sugar-canes to ride with; sucking one end to quench
+our thirst, while we beat on our horses with the other.
+
+Thus equipped, we presently arrived at the dwelling of the owner of the
+canes. He greeted us very cordially, invited us to alight, and,
+perceiving that some of us were strangers, conducted us to the
+buildings, to show us the process of making the sugar. While looking at
+the works, we were joined by Col. Williams, who had come thus far to
+meet us. Our party being now complete, we proceeded to a most romantic
+and beautiful part of the island, called Scotland.
+
+Near Bridge-town we observed that the soil was of rich black earth, but
+not of great depth, being in many places only thinly spread upon
+calcareous rocks, which are formed mostly of madripores. Further in the
+country the earth is of a reddish colour, and evidently argillaceous.
+This is broken, by cultivation, into fine mould; and the soil is deeper,
+though less rich, than that near to the town.
+
+In some divisions of the part of the country called Scotland the land is
+white; and pieces of earth have, here, been found so hardened as to bear
+the knife or chisel: it has been possible also to mark, or write with
+them, as with chalk; and hence one spot has been denominated
+Chalkestate: but the name is founded in error, for the soil is not
+calcareous: it is argillaceous, and being hardened by the evaporation of
+its aqueous parts, the earth is rendered white by exposure to the
+weather. The district of Scotland comprehends the whole of the parish of
+St. Andrew, and part of two other parishes; the tutelar saint
+contributing in larger proportion than both the others.
+
+This part of the island is uncommonly picturesque, and comprehends a
+very grand and interesting variety of scenery. With the stupendous
+irregularity and dark shades of the Alps, and the romantic wildness of
+the mountains of Wales, it combines the gentle but lively variety of the
+soft and flowing surface of England: and in addition to these, it offers
+extensive views of the encircling ocean, the shipping both at sea and in
+the harbour, and all the luxuriance of the fine tropical vegetation.
+
+The particular spot from whence this part of the island appears to have
+derived its name, is raised in rugged cliffs, and broken uncultivated
+summits, forming a rude contrast to the high fertility of the vallies,
+and the bottoms of the hills. Mountains, yet more lofty than these
+barren cliffs, tower around, clothed with rich verdure; and the great
+variety of the scene is further increased by the umbrageous foliage and
+diversified tints of Turner’s-hall wood; the most extensive, and the
+most ancient in the island.
+
+After being long exposed to the scorching sun, in contemplating the many
+beauties of this delightful neighbourhood, we passed over rough and
+rugged roads, along crooked narrow paths, up steep acclivities, and down
+rapid descents, into the deep gloom of the forest; where the change of
+scene was no less striking, than the coolness of the temperature was
+refreshing and grateful. Literally might these be called _sweet shades_,
+for they not only offered the protection we required, but contributed
+likewise oranges and lemons to quench our thirst, and further regaled us
+with the fragrance of odoriferous shrubs and plants. We, who were
+strangers, dwelt on every scene with rapture; and our kind friends, to
+whom the whole was familiar, expressed new delight in administering, so
+amply, to our gratification.
+
+The cool shelter of the forest was derived from the mountain-cabbage,
+from large cedars, and from others of the oldest and finest trees of the
+island. Amidst these shades we descended to a narrow gully, between two
+mountains, to see one of the great curiosities—one of the reported
+wonders of Barbadoes—“a boiling spring!” On approaching the spot, we
+came to a small hut, in which was living an elderly black woman, who
+employed herself as a guide to exhibit, under a kind of necromantic
+process, all the details of this boiling and burning fountain. The old
+dame, bearing in her hand a lighted taper, and taking with her an empty
+calabash, and all the other necessary apparatus of her office, led the
+way from the hut down to the spring. In a still, and most secluded
+situation, we came to a hole, or small pit filled with water, which was
+bubbling up in boiling motion, and pouring, from its receptacle, down a
+narrow channel of the gully. Here our sable sorceress, in the silence
+and solemnity of magic, placing the light at her side, fell upon her
+knees, and, with her calabash, emptied all the water out of the cavity;
+then, immersing the taper in the deep void, she suddenly set the pit in
+a flame; when she instantly jumped upon her legs, and looked
+significantly round, as if anxious to catch the surprise expressed upon
+our countenances, from the workings of her witchcraft. The taper being
+removed, the empty space continued to burn with a soft lambent flame,
+without the appearance of any thing to support the combustion. We
+observed fresh water slowly distilling into the pit, from the earth at
+its sides, and dropping to the bottom; and as this increased in
+quantity, it raised the flame higher and higher, supporting it upon its
+surface, and conveying the appearance of the fluid element being on
+fire; although it was very clear and pure, and not spread with any oily
+or bituminous matter. When the water had risen to a certain height, the
+flame became feeble, then gradually declined, and presently was extinct.
+The boiling and bubbling were now seen as before, and, the pit soon
+overflowing, the stream resumed its course down the narrow channel of
+the gully, when all was restored to the state in which we had found it.
+
+You will have discovered before this, that the water was cold, and that
+the boiling and burning of this fiery deep was only the effect of
+inflammable gas, which, escaping from the bowels of the earth, and
+rising from the bottom, supported the flame when the pit was empty, and,
+bubbling through, when it was filled with water, gave it the appearance
+of a boiling spring. During the combustion, the smell of the inflammable
+air was very powerful.
+
+In the stones and soil, in the very rocks and roads, we traced the
+origin of this phænomenon of nature. Asphaltic productions abounded in
+every quarter: and, upon inquiry, we found that we were in the part of
+the country which produces the celebrated Barbadoes tar; the smell of
+which we perceived as we rode along; indeed, we saw it exuding from the
+hills of hardened clay, and even from the rocks at the sides of the
+road. The argillaceous soil of this neighbourhood is every where
+strongly impregnated with bitumen, in which you will readily discover
+the origin of the “boiling, or inflammable spring.”
+
+We were next conducted to several spots, amidst the rough and wooded
+mountains, where we saw the tar issuing copiously into pits from the
+earth, and witnessed the mode of collecting it. So plentiful is it in
+this part of the country, that it may be procured from any hole dug deep
+enough to contain water; for when small openings are made in the earth,
+and water has flowed into them, the petroleum issuing from their sides
+accumulates and floats in a thick coating upon the surface. It is
+collected by laying the palm of the hand flat upon the water, and then
+scraping off the tar, which adheres to it, upon the edge of a basin or a
+calabash, repeating the dipping and scraping until the fluid is entirely
+cleared of its bituminous covering. After a few days the water is again
+bespread with tar, and more of it may be collected in a similar manner.
+
+In order to reach these pits we were obliged to scramble, on foot,
+through deep and mountainous woods, and by way of narrow rugged paths,
+leaving our slaves and horses to go round and meet us at a distant spot
+below. Near the pits were great numbers of lemon-trees, whose fruit,
+like the crabs of the English hedges, having fallen from its branches,
+lay in heaps, unheeded, upon the ground.
+
+In the part of the wood where we saw the inflammable spring were growing
+mountain-cabbage trees, which were said to be of a peculiar kind, and
+different from all others in the island. This magnificent palm is
+unquestionably the finest tree that is known. From words, or drawings,
+you can collect only an imperfect idea of it. To comprehend its fine
+symmetry, its grandeur, and majestic loftiness, it must be seen. Its
+trunk is very smooth, and almost regularly cylindrical, rising into a
+superb and stately pillar, resembling a well-hewn column of stone. At
+the base its circumference is somewhat greater than at any other part,
+yet lessening so gradually, upwards, as to preserve the most just and
+accurate proportion. Not a single branch, nor even the slightest twig,
+interrupts the general harmony of the trunk, which often rises, in a
+correct perpendicular, to the height of from sixty to a hundred feet,
+and then spreads its palmated foliage into a wide and beautifully
+radiated circle. Branches it has none, but the fine expansive leaves,
+shooting immediately from the summit of the trunk, extend around it,
+crowning, and as it were, protecting the massy column, in form of a
+full-spread umbrella.
+
+It will perhaps occur to you that our noble English oak, with all its
+rude and crooked limbs, must be a more picturesque object. So it is; and
+so is likewise the wide-branching silk-cotton: but the loftiness, the
+stately grandeur, the exact proportion, and the deep-shading foliage of
+the mountain-cabbage are unequalled, and, in their happy combination,
+crown this tree the king of the forest—the most exalted of the vegetable
+world.
+
+When planted in avenues, it forms a grand and imposing approach to a
+dwelling, conveying an air of greatness to the mansion which it adorns.
+It grows, free from decay, to a very old age, but cannot be converted to
+the useful purposes of timber. It is a tree of state, calculated to
+enrich, and augment the magnificence of a palace: nor let it detract
+from its majestic qualities to know that, after all, it is but——_a
+cabbage tree_! Its loftiest summit is a spiral succulent shoot, the
+sides of which, by gradually and successively unfolding, form the fine
+wide-spreading foliage. Before this opens, to expand itself around, it
+is a congeries of young and tender leaves, in which state it is often
+boiled and brought to table as a cabbage, of which it is the very best
+kind I ever remember to have tasted. It is also used, without boiling,
+by way of salad, and is then eaten with oil and vinegar; and so highly
+is it esteemed for these culinary purposes, that, too often, a very fine
+tree has been devoted to the axe, merely because no other means could be
+found, of obtaining, from its towering summit, this most excellent
+cabbage.
+
+The variety of this tree found near the inflammable spring, differs only
+in having its thick tuft of fibrous roots appear several feet out of the
+ground, looking as if the tree, instead of taking root in the earth, was
+growing upon another short trunk placed under it, as a base or pedestal,
+to support it from the soil: a circumstance which seems to have arisen
+from these trees standing upon the side of a hill, and the earth being
+partially washed from their roots by heavy rains. In all other respects
+they are the same as the rest of their species.
+
+After viewing the beauties of Scotland, and seeing the inflammable
+spring, and the tar-pits, we went next to Mount Hilloughby, and ascended
+the highest point of land in Barbadoes. From what I have said of the
+part called Scotland, you will believe that the prospect from
+Hilloughby’s summit must be grand and delighting indeed. The whole
+island, encircled by the Atlantic ocean, was under the eye, displaying a
+scene which comprehended all the variety of land and sea, of hill and
+vale, of rude nature and high cultivation. On one hand were barren
+rugged rocks; on the other rich and fertile plains. Towns, houses, huts,
+and sugar-works were seen distributed about; bays and rivulets were
+before us opening into the sea; a large fleet appeared at anchor, with
+its forest of masts intermixed amidst the buildings of the town;
+multitudes of ships and boats were sailing in all directions round the
+coast; and the solemn forests, and painted groves displayed all the rich
+foliage of tropical vegetation. To form such a picture would defeat the
+genius of a Claude, or defy the bold pencil of a Salvator Rosa. It was
+also further enhanced, by the circumstances under which we saw it; the
+bright tropical sun being, suddenly, overcast by a heavy cloud, which,
+stealing along the mountain tops, so varied the shades and tints as to
+give additional effect to all the beauties of the scene: but while we
+were earnestly contemplating it, this cloud broke upon us in all the
+violence of a pelting storm, and drove us to seek shelter in a
+neighbouring cottage.
+
+Amidst the variety comprised in the view from Hilloughby hill I must not
+forget to mention that we saw what is here termed the “_Runaway
+estate_;” which is a territory of many acres of fine and rich soil, so
+called from having been carried away, at various times, to a
+considerable distance, by heavy torrents of rain, or sudden ruptures of
+the earth. It is said not to be an unfrequent occurrence, in this
+island, for a tract of land thus to assume a change of place; many
+examples of which are to be seen in the parishes of St. Andrew and St.
+Joseph. Large trees, plantains, sugar-canes, and different crops of
+growing produce have been removed with the soil, and have continued to
+thrive in their new situation, as well as if they had remained
+undisturbed.
+
+A very singular change of crop, and of soil, is said to have happened at
+the estate of a Mr. Foster, where a considerable portion of land in the
+possession of a poor tenant near the coast, suddenly moved into the sea;
+and, while the unhappy man was bewailing the loss, not only of his crop,
+but likewise of the territory on which it was planted, the land of his
+neighbour, Mr. Foster, travelled to the spot, and brought him a crop of
+canes, which thrived quite as well as before they took their journey.
+
+On our approach to Col. Williams’s, we were led into a fine valley of
+fruits, which offered us the most grateful refreshment that could have
+presented itself. We had been long riding in excessive heat, and were
+parching with thirst: when the Colonel, without previously announcing
+it, conducted us to the point of a hill from which we suddenly viewed a
+rich and golden orchard below. Elevated as we were above the narrow
+gully in which the fruits were suspended, our situation seemed in a
+degree vexatious and tantalizing: but the Colonel only tempted us, to
+augment our gratification, for we quickly descended, by a steep and
+confined path, into the midst of this region of sweets. Such delicious
+refreshment had never before met our lips! The oranges were not only the
+best we had ever tasted, but they were taken fresh from the tree, and at
+a moment which was calculated to render them tenfold sweeter than they
+could have been at any other time. We gathered and consumed them in
+dozens; and, after having thus feasted, we proceeded to explore the
+extent, and to examine the various productions of this bounteous
+orchard, by whose excellent fruit, and fragrant odour, we had been so
+exquisitely regaled.
+
+The orchard is planted in a narrow gully between two hills, and is
+nearly half a mile in length. It abounds in many different species of
+the orange tribe—oranges, shaddocks, limes, lemons, and forbidden fruit
+hanging in the most inviting profusion. The banana, the plantain, and
+divers other fruits are likewise plenteously intermixed. It is the
+employment of two negroes constantly to attend the orchard and protect
+the fruit. The oranges which we most enjoyed, and which were esteemed
+the best in the colony, were from a tree nearly a hundred years old, and
+the largest upon the island. The fruit was small, but of exquisite
+flavour.
+
+Having made a most delicious repast in this sweet-shaded valley, we
+again mounted our horses, and, after a short ride, arrived at Col.
+Williams’s house. Here we had the refreshment of cold water and a change
+of linen, and having taken a little time to rest ourselves, proceeded to
+eat our dinners under the “social rock.” Descending from the house by a
+steep path, we came into the valley, not far from the orchard, and
+passed under a large open arch which formed the grand entrance to a
+suite of natural and romantic apartments. A little further in the gully
+we found an excavation called the drawing-room; and, beyond this, under
+a stupendous and impending part of the rock, we arrived at a smooth and
+level spot called the dining-room, which is sufficiently spacious to
+accommodate a hundred people. Here was placed the hospitable board,
+which is often and liberally spread by the friendly Colonel; and in this
+sequestered shade were assembled chairs, benches, wine, punch, fruit,
+and all that could contribute to the ease and comfort of wearied
+travellers. But, in truth, we were not of this class; for the
+gratification and high mental delight we had experienced, had completely
+protected us against bodily fatigue, notwithstanding our long and
+scorching ride.
+
+We drank a glass of punch, and explored the deep caverns and various
+recesses of this natural retreat before the dinner was served. About
+four o’clock we took our seats at table, having been in almost constant
+exercise from five in the morning. A hanging rock of madripores shaded
+us above and behind; and, in the front, the breeze of the valley softly
+made its way to us through a plantation of bamboos and fragrant limes,
+while, immediately before us, smoking viands, rich wines, and delicious
+fruits crowned the board. Having endeavoured to provoke your thirst for
+the oranges of the valley, I might further urge your appetite in quest
+of the cray-fish soup of the “social rock,” for I do not know that I
+ever tasted any dish so rich, or of such exquisite flavour.
+
+In the evening the Colonel loaded us home with fruits from the orchard;
+but the party did not separate until our kind friends had planned for us
+a still more extensive _marooning_ excursion; to which I need scarcely
+say we gave our most cordial consent. Our return to Bridge-town was
+peculiarly pleasant: the moon shone bright, the heat was moderate, and
+we had quite the agreeable ride of an English summer evening. The
+distance is about eight miles, and as we descended from the higher to
+the lower land the air became perceptibly closer, until, at the town,
+the breeze seemed to desert us, and we, no longer, felt the cool
+perflation, which had been so grateful to us in the more elevated parts
+of the island.
+
+Never, perhaps, did a long and interesting day pass more pleasantly; nor
+was hospitality ever bestowed with more friendly urbanity. We felt
+infinitely less fatigued than might have been expected, from the great
+distance we had journeyed, and from the length of time we were exposed
+to heat, and exercise; and the only alloy, which in any degree
+interrupted our enjoyment, throughout this happy visit, was a sense of
+suffering, of which we could not wholly divest ourselves, concerning the
+poor slaves, who had to support, on foot, the very same journey which,
+in us, was regarded as a surprising exertion on horseback.
+
+In the course of the ride we repeatedly made compassionate appeals to
+the gentlemen of the island concerning them, but they as constantly
+assured us that our pity was misplaced, adding, that the negroes were
+accustomed to the exercise, and would suffer less than ourselves. Still
+our European feelings forced upon us the wish that either they had been
+accommodated with mules, or we had dispensed with their attendance; and
+it will require a much longer residence, amidst this new order of
+things, before we shall be able to persuade ourselves that our sense of
+disquietude was only a misplaced humanity.
+
+I should have told you that in our long ride we had the opportunity of
+seeing a very extensive variety of the vegetable productions of the
+tropical world; and that we met with multitudes of trees, shrubs, and
+plants, which were not before familiar to us—many, also, which were
+wholly new to our observation. Among those which most attracted our
+attention were the pimento, wild cinnamon, ginger, cassia, cassada,
+banana, plantain, tamarind, cashew-apple, mango, sapadillo, papaw,
+mammee, soursop, goava, grenadillo, water-lemon, oranges, limes, lemons,
+shaddock, forbidden fruit, the aloe, logwood, mahogany, cedar, and
+lignum vitæ. The great staple productions of the West Indies, sugar,
+cotton, and coffee, were also brought frequently before the eye, during
+this interesting excursion.
+
+It appeared to us somewhat remarkable that, in the whole extent of our
+tour, we should not have seen any pines growing, except at one spot near
+Hilloughby hill, where they were regularly planted as the crop of part
+of a sugarfield. The fruit was not ripe; we had no opportunity therefore
+of comparing its flavour with that of the pines of our English
+hot-houses; and, consequently, none of judging whether the cultivation
+of this plant be one of those circumstances, as some have asserted, in
+which art has been made to rival the works of nature. Improbable as this
+would seem, upon a first view of the great perfection of nature’s
+productions, still a further consideration renders it more than
+possible; for, if animals can be improved by culture; if the apple and
+the cabbage can be rendered more useful, the pink and the tulip more
+beautiful, by the hand of man; and, if the powers of our organs of
+vision can be enlarged by his researches in the science of optics; what
+is there that shall prevent him from enriching the flavour of a tropical
+fruit, in a temperate climate? It would seem, indeed, to require only an
+accurate and steady attention to the laws, and operations of nature
+itself; not with a view to oppose or distort the beautiful harmony of
+her works; but to profit of the great lesson she so liberally displays,
+by directing, towards the one great object of our care, those means
+which she is busied in supplying to all. Her bounty is not confined to
+one plant, or a single animal, but is unlimited as the universe. It
+belongs to her not only to foster the fragrant pine and the honeyed
+cane, but with equal care, to give pungency to capsicum, and bitterness
+to the aloe.
+
+If the growth and flavour of a pine depend upon a certain degree of heat
+and light, with a due proportion of air and moisture—all these we have
+in England; and, from careful observation, we may enable ourselves to
+supply to this, or any other particular plant, the necessary quantum of
+these elements with a more undeviating certainty, than will commonly be
+done by nature; she having to dispense her means, not to one root alone,
+but to all creation. The particular degree of moisture necessary for the
+pine might injure the neighbouring coffee—the appropriate quantity of
+air, might not be the exact proportion required by the cotton—or the
+precise ratio of light and heat might differ from that demanded by the
+sugar-cane! But where man commands the disposal he may direct the
+elements, in due degree, to his exotic nursling, and, avoiding the
+irregularities of the natural climate, may learn to cultivate, and to
+improve, at home, what nature never gave to his native soil.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XXII.
+
+
+ Barbadoes, Feb.
+
+We still remain without any accurate intelligence respecting the great
+body of our convoy; and, having no tidings of the commander in chief, we
+continue in equal uncertainty when we may proceed to our original
+destination, at St. Domingo. All here is suspense and anxiety. The
+solicitude of the mercantile world is not less than that of the
+military. No packet is arrived; the affairs of commerce are interrupted;
+and we have no news of Europe or the war. Straggling vessels of our
+disastrous fleet continue to join us; and, most unhappily, from the
+transports coming out, in this dispersed and unprotected manner, we have
+the painful intelligence of frequent captures being made by the enemy’s
+cruisers from Guadaloupe.
+
+A ship which came in this day reports that she parted from the Admiral
+and a hundred sail of the convoy, on the seventh of January, in latitude
+45, longitude 17. This is received, by some, as favorable intelligence,
+it seeming to strengthen the hope that the fleet has not been under the
+necessity of again putting back to Cork, or Spithead. But it is now so
+long since the seventh of January, and we have known in the interval
+such violent,—such repeated and long-continued gales, that, to many of
+us, this news is equally unsatisfactory as all we had heard before. So
+little does it meet our hopes, that we have still many apprehensions
+lest the majority of the convoy may have been obliged to return to
+Ireland or to England.
+
+Unhappily the finest season is passing away; and before the whole army
+can arrive, and be brought into action, the rainy period will be fast
+approaching; but, as many of the men already here are in a sickly state,
+we hope the delay may prove beneficial to them, by affording them an
+opportunity of recovering from the ills of the voyage, and of their long
+confinement on board, before they enter upon the fatigues of the
+campaign. They are daily taken on shore to relieve them from the close
+atmosphere of the transports; and, from being regularly exercised, they
+will have the advantage of becoming, in some degree, seasoned previous
+to being ordered upon actual service.
+
+We learn from our captain that a great desertion is taking place among
+the sailors of his vessel. Six have already absconded, and the number of
+our crew is reduced to fourteen. This intelligence makes us apprehensive
+lest, by the time we sail for St. Domingo, we may not have enough hands
+to work the ship. But we are consoled in the recollection that the
+friendly _trades_ will be entirely in our favor; and that we cannot
+require so strong a ship’s company as amidst the adverse and terrific
+gales which so long beset us on our passage hither.
+
+A sad alarm has spread throughout the harbour, and we have all been in
+fearful concern, respecting the fate of twelve men who went out in a
+flat-bottomed boat to consign to the deep the body of a deceased
+shipmate. Desirous not to throw over the corpse within the harbour,
+where it would be instantly devoured by the numerous sharks which infest
+the bay, and which we see almost daily swimming round the vessels in
+search of prey, they rowed so far out to sea as to be unable to pull
+back again; and the tide being against them, their heavy boat,
+notwithstanding all their efforts to row her into the harbour, was
+carried out into the wide Atlantic, with all hands on board. The captain
+finding it long before his men returned, grew very apprehensive
+regarding their safety. A general concern spread through the bay: it
+extended likewise to the shore, and multitudes soon covered the beach,
+while the shrouds, and yards of the ships, were thronged with anxious
+crowds looking out for the funeral party. No boat appeared, and the
+fears respecting their perilous situation becoming universal, two
+schooners were despatched in search of them. Happily the weather was
+moderate, or the whole would have been certainly lost, for the boat was
+found adrift at open sea! Fortunately all the men were in her, and were
+brought back in safety to the harbour, expressing themselves very
+thankful for their unexpected deliverance from the all-devouring ocean.
+
+A strong contrast to the dangerous situation of these poor men presented
+itself in the repose of some other seamen, whom we perceived sitting at
+rest in their boats, and sailing about the harbour by means of their
+oars; a custom which we find to be common here; for we often see parties
+of negroes, boatmen, or sailors, scud indolently about the bay,
+employing their oars by way of sails. They fix the handles of them at
+the bottom of the boat, and setting them up, two on each side, with the
+flat surface to the wind, collect a sufficiency of the breeze to carry
+them along without the trouble of rowing.
+
+The captains of the Guineamen frequently relieve their ships’ company
+from the duty of the boat, by training some of their black cargo to the
+use of the oar: indeed so adroit do many of the negroes become, during
+the passage, and the time they are detained on board, that their
+assistance is of much service in working the vessel. We see occasionally
+the master of a slave-ship rowed ashore by four of his naked Africans,
+who appear as dexterous, in the management of the boat, as if they had
+been for years accustomed to it.
+
+Sometimes we observe the captains parading the streets, accompanied by
+parties of their prime slaves—apparently with the intention of
+exhibiting them to the eye of the public, in a sound and good condition.
+This contributes, at the same time, to the health and amusement of these
+poor beings, who seem delighted at placing their feet on shore, and, in
+due obedience to their captain, dance and frolic as they go along,
+either in real, or in well dissembled contentment.
+
+I made a visit to Bridge-town this morning with the intention of leaving
+some books to be bound, which I brought out, in sheets, from the
+printer; but you will be surprised to learn that no such person as a
+book-binder can be found in Barbadoes. We called on Mr. Hinde, and were
+informed that, by the assistance of his friends Messrs. Jordan and
+Maxwell, he had provided horses for our intended “_marooning_ party” to
+Hackleton’s Cliff, and the northern coast of the island; when, upon our
+apologizing to him, and his friends, and observing that we had sent our
+servants to hire horses for the journey, he replied that no apologies
+could be heard, for it would be “quite inconsistent with Barbadoes to
+suffer strangers to have the trouble of procuring horses, or of seeking,
+themselves, the accommodations for a country excursion.”
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XXIII.
+
+
+ Barbadoes, Feb. 27.
+
+We have made our projected marooning excursion to Hackleton’s Cliff, and
+the windward coast of the island, as planned by our friends at the
+“social rock,” and often, in the course of it, did my thoughts wander to
+another friend, wishing yet one addition to the party!
+
+On the 23d inst. we went off before six in the morning to Bridge-town,
+where, as before, we found slaves, horses, and every necessary for the
+journey, provided by the friendly Mr. Hinde, and in readiness for our
+departure. It was arranged, that we should avail ourselves of the early
+part of the day, by proceeding to Col. Williams’s before breakfast. The
+morning was dull; the sky lowered, and it threatened rain; but none
+fell; still, from the sun being obscured, the air was pleasantly cool.
+
+We rode slowly as far as Dr. Hinde’s, where we were joined by the
+Doctor, and Mr. Abel Hinde, and Mr. Jordan. Upon our arrival at Col.
+Williams’s, we found the breakfast board most bounteously spread, and
+the Colonel prepared to take an active part in the expedition. After
+breakfasting with good appetite, and being well rested and refreshed, we
+left the “social rock,” to pursue our route, in the true marooning
+spirit; making a home whenever we might require it, or wheresoever we
+could find it. The first object which arrested our attention was a very
+extensive subterraneous cavern, called “Harrison’s Cave.” This is within
+about half a mile of the Colonel’s house, and is one of the greatest
+natural curiosities of the island. Its hidden mouth opens among the
+rocks of a deep narrow gully, between two lofty hills. There we forsook
+the light of day, and descended into the dark regions of the earth, in
+order to advance to the utmost extent of the gloomy depths before us.
+Our way was intricate and obscure. Taking with us three negroes, with
+lights, we descended by narrow windings, or spacious openings, by broad
+walks, or narrow crooked paths, over loose stones, or rocky steeps. At
+one moment we found ourselves under a fine arch or dome, hung with
+clusters of petrifactions; at another we were in a narrow aisle, whose
+walls, and impending vault, faintly glittered with multiform
+incrustations. By the senses of feeling and hearing, more than by the
+sight, we judged of the varying uncertainty of our situation, and
+advanced with cautious step—now confined, now in more open space, until
+we reached a spot where we came to a gentle rivulet, gliding along its
+subterraneous bed in a pure and crystal stream. A few soft rays,
+gleaming from above, silvered over the surface, and exhibited all the
+purity of this limpid current: while the sky, which appeared at a
+circular opening, cut through the soil and the solid rock, to the depth
+of thirty or forty fathoms, resembled the pale moon, or the sun divested
+of his effulgent beams.
+
+Together with our artificial lights, the mild rays from this opening,
+penetrating to the very bottom of the cave, displayed the hanging tubes
+of stalactites, and the various surrounding petrifactions, in a manner
+highly interesting and picturesque.
+
+ “Here incrustations strike the eyes:
+ There spangled domes, with lustre bright,
+ Beam down an artificial light;
+ Whence pensile hang, in gothic show,
+ Descending to the sands below,
+ Fantastic forms——.”
+
+After drinking of the pellucid stream, and examining the pendent vaults,
+the arches, and recesses around, we proceeded onwards to a considerable
+distance beyond the rivulet, until the broken path became more and more
+intricate, and the gloomy cavern seemed to close upon us in endless and
+impenetrable obscurity. The feeble taper now scarcely illumined the spot
+whereon we stood, while all beyond us was buried in perfect darkness.
+The path grew still more uncertain and irregular: here we bent our
+persons almost double to pass under a rugged arch; there we descended a
+sudden steep; then, again, we had to scramble up a craggy and projecting
+mass: presently we turned the sharp corner of a rock, into a narrow
+passage, between huge walls of stone; next we opened into a more
+spacious vault: soon our way was again confined, or our heads struck the
+hanging petrifactions above. At one moment we trod on the firm rock, at
+another our steppings were upon loose stones, and, perhaps, the
+following instant we found our feet in water, or upon damp earth; now we
+seemed to have reached the utmost depth of the cave; then we stepped
+suddenly into a wide space: at length we reached the remotest extent
+which had been explored; but unlimited windings seemed yet to lead on,
+in terrific gloom, to the very centre of the earth.
+
+Having only two or three open tapers, we did not feel it prudent to
+venture farther into unexplored passages; more particularly as the road
+we had passed, had been so intricate and perplexing that, in case of any
+accident occurring to extinguish our light, we might not have been able
+to trace our way back, to the mouth of the cave. Hence we declined
+proceeding any deeper into this abode of darkness and silence, and
+turned about to retrace our steps to a brighter scene. Feeling better
+assured respecting our path, we now contemplated more leisurely the
+stupendous walls of rock, the varied incrustations, the ponderous masses
+of stalactites, the multitudes of madripores, and the other calcareous
+concretions, formed by nature from the limpid droppings which were seen
+on all sides, also above and below, and hanging round about our heads in
+an endless variety of fantastic figures.
+
+The air, in most parts of the cave, was confined and warm, but,
+occasionally, we felt it damp and chilly. On our way back, at a narrow
+pass, where we had been obliged to bend low the knee in order to creep
+under the arch of a rock, we perceived it rush in strong current: here
+the whole of our lights were suddenly extinguished, and we were shut in
+the dark and hollow bowels of the earth, unable to explore our path to
+the mouth of the cavern. Unhappily, too, we were confined in a damp
+current of air, and compelled to stand shivering with cold, whilst Col.
+Williams and the negroes, who had been often in the cave, felt their
+road out, at great hazard, to procure new lights. We remained buried in
+the silent seclusion of this subterraneous abode for nearly an hour; and
+when the distant sound of our conductor’s feet returned upon our ears,
+and the soft glimmerings of light again stole into the profound depths
+of the cave, the effect was uncommonly striking. Watching carefully as
+the negroes approached, we saw the rays of light gleam upon their dark
+skins, gilding them as it were with fire. Presently we lost them in
+obscurity, then again, the imperfect rays darted towards us, and at one
+moment we saw indistinctly the blacks descend from a rock, while at
+another we perceived them suddenly rise as from the deep. Again the
+light disappeared, and we only heard, their distant hollow-sounding
+steps: then they escaped from a narrow passage or confined recess, and
+were seen stepping forth under an open and spacious arch, where the
+heavy rocks, the vaulted dome, the petrified columns, the massy tubes,
+and impending clusters of glittering concretions, together with the
+solemn echo, the fiery blackness of the negroes, and the spreading rays
+of artificial light, partially absorbed, or feebly reflected, produced
+an effect, which was at once picturesque, and awful.
+
+In such a situation, buried in darkness and sepulchral silence, but
+little assistance of the imagination was required to create pictures of
+horror, or to figure the mighty abode of terrors and punishments. When
+our eyes first caught these Africans, at a distant part of the cavern,
+it scarcely needed the aid of fancy to convert them into demons of still
+lower regions, approaching us with the tormenting flames of their dread
+parent! Such an association did actually occupy our minds, as, in
+stillness, we watched the advance of these seeming spirits of darkness;
+and by the time these sable beings had reached us, we had so powerfully
+traced the images of the black spirits below, that it was difficult to
+persuade ourselves they were only black bodies, bringing us lights from
+above.
+
+But the voice of the friendly Colonel, who accompanied them, soon roused
+us from our reverie, and reminded us that, however dismal our abode, it
+was not _that bourn from whence no traveller returns_! We now hastened
+to change our gloomy dwelling for brighter regions, but were obliged to
+tread our way in cautious steps towards the exit of the cave; for the
+path was intricate and perilous. As we came near to the opening we
+extinguished the artificial lights, in order to enjoy the appearance of
+the soft rays which stole in at the entrance of the cave, richly gilding
+the rocks and petrifactions, and gradually, though irregularly, growing
+stronger until we again met the broad glare of day.
+
+On our first escaping from the cave, the powerful light of the sun,
+falling through the widely dilated pupils of our eyes, produced a
+considerable degree of pain; we therefore remained a short time in the
+gully before we again mounted our horses, to proceed to a point called
+Sugar-hill, from whence we obtained an extensive and very beautiful view
+of the parishes of Scotland, and the romantic parts of the island which
+we had before visited.
+
+Near Sugar-hill we called at a cottage to give directions for some
+oranges to be sent down to the “Bay-house,” a place we were to visit _en
+route_. Here we met with two fair cottagers, who, though less ruddy,
+were not less animated than the lovely and blooming peasants of Old
+England: they were the healthy-looking daughters of the old dame of the
+house, and notwithstanding the want of rosy tint, had pretty English
+faces.
+
+After enjoying the fine views from Sugar-hill, and witnessing the smiles
+of the neighbouring cottagers, we were conducted to the home of a Mr.
+Haynes, where we met with a warm Barbadoes greeting, and were welcomed
+with frankness and a most cordial hospitality. We rested only a few
+minutes, when Mr. Haynes and his son joined our party, and accompanied
+us to an adjoining estate called “Joe’s River,” a most delightful spot,
+and quite the elysium of the island. Until lately it has been in the
+possession of the Rev. Mr. H., a man of much genius and learning, whose
+loss is deeply regretted by all, but more particularly by the literati
+of the colony. He was a scientific botanist, and as much respected for
+his extensive information, as for his friendly and social disposition.
+
+The house is finely situated on elevated ground near the sea, surrounded
+with extensive plantations of the choicest trees and tropical fruits.
+The garden and orchard had long been the great objects of their owner’s
+care. It was his wish to procure an useful and ornamental assemblage of
+all the rare fruits and plants of the tropical regions: and, in this
+intention, he had already obtained a numerous and valuable collection,
+which, through his industry and perseverance, was almost daily
+increasing. His private hours were passed in literary pursuits. Much of
+his time was devoted to his favorite study of Natural History, and to
+realizing the improvements suggested by his contemplations. In society
+he was convivial: to his slaves he was parental and humane; and,
+possessing great urbanity, he was kind and obliging to all.
+
+This once happy dwelling, which was graced by hospitality and
+benevolence, enriched by industry, and dignified by science: this
+delightful home, so lately the pride and ornament of the island, is now
+left to fall into ruin and decay. The broken walls, the hidden paths,
+the shattered doors and windows, the wild, neglected trees, the
+obtrusive weeds, and half-covered walks all bespeak, in doleful decline,
+its former beauty; and truly may it be said that Joe’s river mourns in
+fast-withering sorrow, the afflicting loss of its distinguished
+proprietor.
+
+We now proceeded to the sea-side, and our next place of call was a
+cottage termed the Bay-house, a neat little building erected by Mr.
+Haynes, under a rock upon the open beach, to serve as a home of rest and
+refreshment for such of his friends, and, in great truth may we say, his
+friends’ friends, who may chance to visit the windward coast. We found
+it the rendezvous of entertainment and repose. Intimation had been
+conveyed to the generous owner that it might perhaps be in our way to
+make a short visit at his villa, and he had availed himself of the
+information to provide a rich and bountiful repast. All the good things
+of the island seemed to have been collected. The whole neighbourhood had
+been ransacked for our accommodation. The best productions, from every
+quarter, were directed hither to supply the hospitable board. Cook,
+butler, fishermen, servants, and slaves were assembled to give their
+assistance. The net was thrown into the sea immediately before the door,
+and the fishes taken, were presently smoking upon the table; fruits,
+wines, meat, poultry, and vegetables were brought in profusion, and made
+only a part of the feast of this little cottage, built by generous
+hospitality, and dedicated to friendship and social harmony. A supply of
+provisions was likewise procured for the refreshment of our slaves and
+horses, and these were regaled with no less liberality than their
+masters—the friendly courtesies of the “Bay-house” being extended
+equally to all.
+
+Punch and mandram were served to us before dinner, the one to quench our
+thirst, the other to provoke the appetite; and soon afterwards were set
+before us a variety of dishes, consisting of boiled, stewed, and broiled
+fish, a cold roasted lamb, a cold turkey, fowls, tongues, cray-fish, and
+a multitude of other good things. After we had dined very abundantly the
+table was covered with punch, many excellent wines, and several species
+of fruits. Among the latter was a large pine, the first of which we had
+partaken in the island. I do not know that the flavour was superior to
+that of some of the pines I have tasted from the hot-houses of England,
+but it was certainly very delicious.
+
+Having plenteously refreshed ourselves, and the slaves and horses being
+well fed and rested, we called the negroes from their dessert of rolling
+and basking in the sun, and proceeded upon our journey. To our great
+surprise, at the very moment the horses appeared at the door for our
+departure, a large dish of sprats, smoking from the gridiron, and an
+immense bowl of milk-punch, were set before us. This was quite a West
+Indian addition to the repast. Having eaten very heartily, and indulged
+in copious libations, we had already done even too much in the way of
+feasting, but, to my great astonishment, some of the party partook with
+a renewal of appetite which was rather indicative of sitting down to
+dinner, than of rising from table! At two o’clock we had commenced with
+punch; after which came the mandram; at three was served the dinner:
+busy eating and drinking continued until five; and then appeared the
+sprats, and bowl of milk-punch: thus did nearly four hours pass in high
+banqueting and conviviality at this social cottage. At length, due
+honors having been done to the punch and sprats, we again put ourselves
+_en route_. We rode along the sands to a spot called Beersheba, which is
+so enclosed among the rocks as to form a natural bathing-place. From
+thence we proceeded to a large mass of rocks, lying in the water, near
+the edge of the sea, where we had the expectation of viewing a curious
+natural production called the animal flower. But here we were
+disappointed; for the tide being in, the sea running high, and the wind
+strong, we were unable to reach the spot where this phænomenon of nature
+is usually found.
+
+Although we lost the opportunity of seeing it, I cannot refrain from
+giving you the account of this uncommon _flower_, and its
+dwelling-place, as communicated to us by our brother Maroons.—Within a
+deep cave, formed in the rock, is a spacious natural basin of water,
+which is about eleven feet above low-water mark. It is collected from
+the sea beating into the cave in rough weather; and hence, that which
+lodges in this basin is entirely salt water, except a very small
+admixture from rain, which distils in drops, through the small openings
+of the rock. In the middle of the basin is a large stone, or piece of
+detached rock, which is usually covered with water. About this stone,
+and adhering to its sides, as if growing therefrom, are seen numbers of
+apparently beautiful flowers, finely variegated in vivid colours, and of
+radiated form, somewhat resembling the petals of the garden marigold.
+Some are of a pale yellow, or a light straw colour, tinged with green;
+others of a greyish purple, intermixed with black spots.
+
+To gather any of these seeming flowers is a task of difficulty, for when
+the hand approaches them, the petals instantly contract, and become
+invisible. If left undisturbed they re-appear, in the course of a few
+minutes, gradually expanding into their former bloom; but again retire,
+with surprising quickness, on the approach of the hand, a cane, or any
+other body that may be directed towards them.
+
+This circumstance, as you will expect, led to early investigation
+regarding the nature of this singular flower, when, instead of a fine
+blowing vegetable, it was discovered to be an animal that was decorated
+with all this gaiety of colouring; and hence the name “animal flower.”
+
+On examination the body is found to be of a blackish hue, less than an
+inch in length, and about a quarter of an inch in thickness. It adheres
+by one end to the rock, and from the other extremity, which projects
+outwards, are thrown off a number of fine membranous filaments, in a
+radiated and circular form: and from the point or head, at the centre of
+this circle, project four long slender fibrils, not unlike the legs of
+the spider. Thus, while the body appears as the calyx, and the expanded
+filaments as the petals, these fibrils serving as the stamina, complete
+the resemblance of a regular and beautiful flower.
+
+It has been suggested, that as this animal is almost wholly deprived of
+locomotive power, the fine colours, given to the membranous filaments,
+serve as a provision of nature, to allure and bring within its reach the
+smaller insects, upon which it feeds; and from the quick spontaneous
+motion of the fine central threads, from side to side, or round the
+whole border of the radiated circle, these may be designed to act as
+forceps, for conveying the food to the mouth, the extended filaments
+serving as _antennæ_, or feelers, to discover the prey, and from their
+contractile power enclosing it, when seized, as in a purse, or sacculus,
+until it is devoured. With much disappointment at not being able to see
+this natural curiosity of the island, we left the coast, in order to
+ascend the mountainous summit, called Hackleton’s cliff; the only spot
+which vies with Hilloughby hill in being the loftiest point of
+Barbadoes. The path was rugged, and singularly precipitous. To walk up
+it was a degree of fatigue which, it was said, Europeans ought not to
+encounter; and to ride was not free from danger, besides being a cruel
+labour to the horses. But as it was contended that they would better
+support the toil than ourselves, we were induced to continue upon our
+saddles, although, indeed, with much difficulty, from the rapidity of
+the ascent. By stopping frequently to let the poor animals recover their
+breath, we did, at length, reach the summit; but never before did I sit
+upon a horse to climb so steep a mountain. In the Alps of Switzerland,
+and of Savoy, it is not unusual to ride small horses, called Mountain
+Ponies, over the lesser hills; but previous to ascending the more
+difficult acclivities these are always changed for mules; with which I
+have often ventured up ascents even more nearly perpendicular than
+Hackleton’s Cliff: but the mule is a more quiet, a more enduring, and
+more patient animal: he is not irascible and impetuous like the horse,
+and moreover, in such situations, he is so accustomed to climbing, that
+he appears sensible of all the dangers around him, and is careful in
+every movement, to consult the safety of himself and his rider. He looks
+with caution at each stepping, and he ascertains that his foot will be
+secure, before he ventures to bear upon it the weight of his body.
+
+In the Alps a mule will carry you up mountains which are so steep as to
+appear from the valley quite perpendicular, proceeding by a narrow path,
+in which he cannot possibly turn himself round, and passing close by the
+edge of the most terrific precipices, ascending only by means of
+irregular holes made among the roots of trees, or steppings roughly
+broken in the rock; yet have you only to give him the bridle and sit
+still, holding by the mane to keep yourself from slipping back, and you
+are in the utmost safety.
+
+But I must return from the Alps, and tell you that in consequence of our
+feasting delay at the Bay-house, and the time required to go up the
+cliff, we found the evening stealing upon us before we came to the top.
+The sun had already sunk too low, to gild the landscape with its rays,
+or to enliven the view of the ocean, with the brightness which shone
+upon our visit to Hilloughby hill; but, from what I have already said of
+that, your imagination will readily suggest to you the beauties of the
+scenery, and the extent of the prospect from Hackleton’s Cliff. From
+viewing the delightful variety around, at the decline of day, the effect
+was new and pleasing. A soft and placid picture succeeded to the strong
+and vivid colours of noon: the landscape, though less bright, was not,
+perhaps, less interesting; and, as we had visited Mount Hilloughby in a
+full glow of light, we did not lament that we saw Hackleton’s Cliff
+under the retiring beams of evening.
+
+Unexpectedly we found the top of this elevated spot to be a
+wide-extended surface, covered with herbage, and so gradually declining
+on the opposite side, that on turning our faces from the steep precipice
+of the east, we appeared to be upon a broad plain, instead of a rude
+summit, which formed nearly the highest point of land in the island. On
+the cliff we visited the estate of Mr. Stewart, at which is a pleasant
+house, delightfully situated, near the most lofty part of this high
+land, bearing no appearance of being so raised, or within so short a
+distance of the stupendous precipice which is near it.
+
+Ginger is the produce of the plantation. We saw great quantities of this
+root spread before the house, upon a large square neatly paved, for the
+purpose of drying it, preparatory to sending it to market.
+
+From Mr. Stewart’s we proceeded to the Colleton estate, where we
+purposed taking up our quarters for the night. On our way I happened to
+learn that the gentleman of the house was not apprized of our intended
+visit; and on discovering this, it seemed to me that it would be only a
+necessary civility to acquaint him with it; I therefore proposed that we
+should despatch an _avant courier_ to announce our approach, lest, from
+descrying so large a party, unexpectedly, the family might believe us to
+be indeed a horde of Maroons; or, still worse, might mistake us for a
+foraging party, coming to levy contributions upon the estate; but I was
+desired to suspend my anxiety, and be assured that we should not fail to
+meet with good accommodations, and a sincere welcome, by only announcing
+ourselves “_in propriis personis_;” and this information proved to be
+perfectly correct, for Mr. Hollingsworth greeted us cordially, and
+entertained us with all the genuine hospitality of the island. Eight
+visitors, eight slaves, and eight horses, thus dropping in without
+notice, and at night, were received with such unaffected kindness as to
+assure us that thrice the number would have been joyfully hailed. No
+cold, or forbidding ceremony; no seeming hurry or disorder; no
+derangement of the household was manifested. We were all immediately _at
+home_; no surprise or inconvenience was evinced; not an individual was
+incommoded; the duties of the family were continued; nor was there the
+slightest mark of interruption in any department of this hospitable
+dwelling. The usual order was maintained, and it appeared as if we were
+a part of the family. The _mauvaise honte_, the confusion and
+embarrassment but too common, upon similar occasions, in England, were
+utterly unknown. The brimming punch-bowl was set before us, and pleasant
+lively conversation prevailed: soon the supper called us to further
+feasting, which continued until the hour of repose.
+
+We retired to rest, according to the custom of the country, at an early
+hour. Drs. Master, Cleghorn, and myself were accommodated in one
+spacious room. It was the first night we slept on shore, and you will
+judge of the temperature of these regions, when I tell you that, in this
+cool part of the most Windward Island, and in the month of February, we
+set open the windows of the room, and threw aside all the bedding and
+clothes, preserving to each person only a hard mattress, and a single
+sheet. With this arrangement we passed the night in sound repose, and
+rose at six in the morning, well prepared for another marooning day.
+
+We rode before breakfast to see the Barbadoes or Codrington College. On
+our way we passed an estate called “Society,” and on approaching the
+college from the high land of that quarter we obtained a fine view of
+the building, with the plain on which it stands, and the wide expanse of
+the sea, spread before it. Descending from the hill we met with the
+finest avenue of mountain-cabbage trees that we had seen in the island.
+
+The college was founded and richly endowed by Colonel Codrington, with
+the generous and very laudable design of establishing a great and useful
+seminary for the education of the youth of Barbadoes; the liberal
+founder appropriating the revenue of two large estates to the
+institution, in the desire of affording an opportunity to the creole
+generations of the island, of acquiring learning, and fitting themselves
+for the important duties of society, and of their individual stations,
+without incurring the expense of an European education. But the
+benevolent intentions of the Colonel have not been duly regarded. The
+profits intended for this best of purposes have been squandered away,
+and the funds disgracefully neglected or abused. The superb edifice,
+which was planned, has not been finished, and even the part that was
+erected, has, from shameful neglect, been brought into early decay. Only
+one side of the intended quadrangle has yet been built, and that, to the
+disgrace of those concerned, has long been left to fall into ruin.
+
+The present manager, highly to his honor, has done much toward
+recovering the estates, and directing the funds, arising therefrom, into
+their proper channel. By his care a very considerable sum has been
+recently accumulated, and the part of the building which has been
+erected, is now undergoing a repair, in the hope of saving it from utter
+and premature destruction.
+
+The walls are built of stone, and are of uncommon strength. They
+withstood the dreadful hurricane of 1780, and appear to be still capable
+of a complete restoration, but it must be at great labour, and a
+prodigious expense.
+
+As we were viewing the large hall, and the chapel, we received a message
+from the master, the Rev. Mr. Thomas, requesting us to take breakfast
+with him: but our plan for the day, and our engagements with Mr.
+Hollingsworth, did not allow us to accept the invitation. We had,
+however, an opportunity of thanking him, by making him a visit in the
+house built for the principal of the college, which we were sorry to
+observe, like the other parts of the structure, had been left unheeded,
+and was falling into comparatively youthful decay. Mr. Thomas showed us
+a model in wood, according to the original design; but if the building
+had been completed upon this plan, Barbadoes might have boasted a
+college, vying in grandeur, and elegance of structure, with the greatest
+ornaments of the celebrated universities of the mother-country. The
+model, like the building, feeling the destructive effect of the climate,
+and of sad neglect, was fast crumbling into a state of decay.
+
+Twelve boys, only, are yet admitted on the foundation, and these,
+instead of occupying any part of the college building, are accommodated
+in the house of the master, the parlour being converted into a kind of a
+school-room.
+
+We returned to Mr. Hollingsworth’s by a different road, from that we had
+taken in going, ascending some high land near the college, called “Coach
+Hill.” This ride afforded us an opportunity of seeing a numerous gang of
+negroes grouped in the middle of a field, taking their breakfast, during
+the temporary suspension allowed them from labour. They were seated upon
+the bare earth, and exposed to the full scorching of the sun.
+
+On our arrival we found a handsome breakfast prepared for us, and neatly
+served in a large cool room, with all the taste and fashion of the West
+Indies. While partaking of it I several times detected my thoughts
+wandering to the poor blacks in the field, contemplating the simplicity
+of their fare, and the humble natural board on which it was spread.
+
+The Colleton estate is one of the largest in the island. It is, at
+present, the property of a Mrs. Colleton, who resides in London. The
+direction and sole management of it are left to Mr. Hollingsworth; and
+the owner is fortunate in giving her confidence to a person of high
+honor and integrity, who does every justice to the estate, and the
+proprietor. At this plantation we witnessed the mode of claying, or (as
+they commonly term it) _improving_ sugar. This is a very simple process
+by which the sugar is much whitened, and increased in value. A coating
+of clay, softened nearly to a liquid state with water, is spread over
+the surface of the sugar, as it stands in the deep earthen pots into
+which it is received from the boiler, and the fluid parts gradually
+draining away, the clay becomes hardened into a dry cake at the top;
+while the water passes through the whole of the sugar, and carries with
+it a considerable portion of the molasses, passing off by an opening at
+the bottom of the pot, leaving the sugar greatly whitened, and improved.
+The clay having become hard and contracted, is easily removed from the
+surface. We saw it lifted from several of the pots; and the difference
+between the sugar in these and in the vessels which had not been
+subjected to the same process was very striking. After being thus
+treated the sugar sells at a price nearly one third higher, than in its
+raw state: other advantages are likewise said to derive to the planter
+from this partial mode of refining the produce of his canes. Soon after
+breakfast we resumed our _marooning_ wanderings, taking our departure
+from the Colleton estate impressed with a strong sense of the kind
+reception, and the very warm hospitality it had afforded us.
+
+After leaving Mr. Hollingsworth’s, “Clarke’s Court,” and “Kendall”
+estates, were the two earliest plantations which arrested our attention.
+The latter is under the direction of a very singular and eccentric
+character, whose great ambition is to act differently from other men;
+and who finds a secret pleasure in deviating from established rules. His
+mill is oddly trimmed, the sails strangely cut, and all the works, by
+some deviation or other, made peculiar. Among a multitude of other
+singularities he has planted a patch of pigeon peas in the neighbourhood
+of a field of canes, in order to allure the borers from the sugar,—a
+piece of policy very like setting a dish of tough beef before an
+alderman to seduce his appetite from a haunch of venison!
+
+From Kendall’s we rode to “Drax-Hall,” the largest plantation of the
+island, and the property of the Grosvenor family. The house is a
+spacious and venerable edifice, quite proportionate to the size of the
+estate, which we observed, had two mills, and a double set of works for
+the preparation of the sugar. This was also the case at the large
+estates of Colleton and Kendall.
+
+No interruption,—no chasm occurs in the hospitality of Barbadoes! It is
+universal, and literally, as justly, entitles it to be ranked among the
+“friendly isles.” In all the liberality of the country Mr. Chatterton of
+Drax-Hall, invited us to pass the day at the good old mansion, kindly
+proffering us every friendly accommodation. But it was not consistent
+with our plan to take up our quarters at so early an hour; we were
+therefore compelled to violate our inclinations, which would have
+detained us throughout the day at the Hall. After having the refreshment
+of some wine and water, we pursued our ride, and passing by way of a
+wood, called after the name of the plantation “Drax-Hall wood,” we
+proceeded to the estate of “Spendlove,” which is under the care, and
+very excellent management of Mr. John Waith, a gentleman in no degree
+less hospitable than any we had seen in the island, and although very
+active, no less fat and good-humoured than some of our well-fed yeomen
+who feast upon the best things of England.
+
+Spendlove was our place of dinner. Whilst this was preparing, we begged
+permission to see the negro-yard, and to extend our visit into some of
+the huts, being desirous to inspect the habitations, and observe the
+mode of life of the slaves. It was remarked to us that the negroes were
+tenacious of their home, and disliked to have their huts exposed to the
+prying eye of strangers. We accordingly treasured the information,
+promising not to be too minute, but to regulate our curiosity with all
+becoming decorum, paying due regard to the feelings and prejudices of
+the sable inhabitants: and I should have been truly mortified not to
+have had this opportunity of telling you, from the testimony both of my
+eyes and ears, the very comfortable, and, I might say, happy state in
+which we found the slaves of Spendlove.
+
+In your future good wishes for the comfort of the poor Africans forget
+not to pray that all masters may possess hearts as kind, and humane, as
+that which beats in the bosom of “Jack Waith,” this being the title by
+which that gentleman is best known in the island. The friendly
+indulgence of the master is amply repaid by the attachment of his
+slaves; and the history of Mr. Waith and his gang, may stand in
+everlasting reproach to the self-arrogating opinion which maintains that
+negroes know not the divine sentiment of gratitude, but are most
+treacherous toward the master who treats them best. Were this the fact,
+as is not unfrequently asserted, it would offer itself in direct
+opposition to a great law of human nature, and would place the _blacks_
+very far indeed below the _whites_; but, however much individual
+instances might seem to countenance the opinion, these, perhaps, do not
+occur more frequently among Africans, than among Europeans, and surely
+cannot be considered to arise more from any original defect in them,
+than we should be willing to admit that they do in ourselves. Such
+instances are only the result of depravity in either, and proceed from a
+_perversion_, not from a genuine _principle_ of nature; and hence cannot
+in the one, more than in the other, serve to establish any general
+maxim.
+
+By kind attentions, and occasional indulgences to his slaves, Mr. Waith
+had so meliorated their condition, so softened to them the hardships of
+slavery, and so improved their comforts, as to attach them to him, by
+the secure ties of affection and gratitude. The loud clang of the whip
+was seldom heard among them, and the smartings of its painful lash were
+scarcely dreaded; for a better principle than fear impelled them to
+their duty. Their friendship for their master made his interests their
+own; and their gratitude rendered his safety the object of their
+solicitude, and even of their lives. Of this he had, in two great
+instances, known the most unequivocal proof; one when the negroes of the
+estates had formed a conspiracy to rise upon their masters; the other
+upon an alarm being given that the island was attacked by the French! On
+both these occasions the slaves of Spendlove voluntarily offered to lay
+down their lives in defence of Mr. Waith and his house.
+
+At the negro-yards it is common for the slaves to plant fruits and
+vegetables, and to raise stock. Some of them keep a pig, some a goat,
+some Guinea fowls, ducks, chickens, pigeons, or the like. At one of the
+huts of Spendlove, we saw a pig, a goat, a young kid, some pigeons, and
+some chickens, all the property of an individual slave. This is mere
+favor, but it gratifies and amuses the negroes, and becomes, in various
+ways, highly useful. The little garden, and their stock, not only afford
+them employment and recreation for their leisure moments, but create a
+degree of interest in the spot, and excite feelings of kindness toward
+the master, who both grants and protects the indulgence. The negro-yard,
+viewed from a short distance, forms an object of highly interesting and
+picturesque scenery: it comprises all the little huts, intermixed with,
+and more or less concealed by the variety of shrubs and fruit-trees,
+which kindly lend their shade; likewise the many small patches of
+garden-ground around them, and the different species of stock, some
+appearing in pens, some tied by the leg, or the neck, and some running
+at large: if it be evening, you have also the crowd of negroes, male and
+female, as they chance to be at rest, or moving in busy occupation, some
+passing from hut to hut, some dancing to their favorite music, some
+sitting at the door with the pipe in their mouths, and others smoking
+their loved sagar under the broad leaf of the plantain. The picture is
+also further enlivened by the groups of black children; some running and
+skipping about, some seated, playing before the doors, in Nature’s ebon
+dress, and some, unable to walk, attempting little excursions upon their
+hands and feet. Perhaps within so small a space, few scenes could offer
+so much to interest, or to aid the pencil of a painter.
+
+They are at liberty to take the whole of their own private stock to
+market, and to procure whatever additional comforts they prefer with the
+money it produces. Strange as it may appear, the markets of the island
+depend almost wholly upon this mode of supply. They are all held weekly,
+and upon the Sunday; that being the day when the negroes are free from
+labour, and have leisure to attend.
+
+Mr. Waith has learned the happy art of governing his slaves with
+kindness, and he finds it a better steward than the whip. With great
+goodness of heart he indulges his own humane feelings, and finds it
+better policy than using stripes. He is a man of social manners, and
+would certainly deceive Lavater himself, if he possessed not all the
+generosity and benevolence for which he has obtained such universal
+credit; for all this is plainly written upon his brow. He is of a ruddy
+complexion, and with an uncommon degree of fatness, is very active, and
+appears to have all the strong health of an European. Never was
+entertainment more bountiful, or given with greater liberality, or a
+more cordial welcome, than at the plantation of Spendlove. Punch and
+mandram preceded the dinner; at table was an extensive variety of good
+things; and after the cloth was removed, the board was spread with
+fruits of various kinds, together with claret, port, and madeira wines,
+and goava-punch.
+
+The round of feasting having continued for several hours, it was
+followed, like our dinner at the Bay-house, by new provocatives; and the
+appetite, having already consumed more than it required, was invited to
+take more than it ought, by the unexpected appearance of smoking sprats,
+hot lobsters, and a large bowl of milk-punch.
+
+Mr. Waith’s father and brother came from their different plantations to
+meet us at Spendlove, and were of the party at dinner. The old gentleman
+is an uncommonly handsome man, sixty years of age, with all the health
+and spirits of a person of forty. He is not so fat as his son, but _très
+enbonpoint_. He is jocose and lively, a facetious companion, highly
+convivial, and, in the full spirit of the West Indies, a perfect _bon
+vivant_. He intreated us, with much kindness and urgent solicitation, to
+make a visit to his estate before we leave Barbadoes, apologizing in his
+own mirthful way, for not having it in his power to offer us more than a
+“plain farmer’s dinner,—_a pig, a duck, and a turkey cock_.”
+
+In order to reach Bridge-town in time to go on board to sleep, we left
+Spendlove earlier than our inclinations would have dictated. On our way
+we called at the house of Mr. Ellcock, brother to an eminent physician
+of that name, whom we had met at Dr. Hinde’s. The road leading to the
+mansion was bordered by the stately mountain-cabbage trees, which are so
+peculiarly calculated to form a grand and imposing approach to a
+gentleman’s dwelling. These were the finest which had yet occurred to
+our observation, not excepting those we had seen at the college. Mr.
+Ellcock’s is the most modern, and most European-looking abode we met
+with in the course of our tour. The house and little flower-garden
+before it, resemble those of England. Near to the door is a cool avenue
+forming an agreeable promenade, deeply shaded with the foliage of a very
+handsome tree called the “Evergreen.”
+
+We walked into the small garden before the house, which is laid out _à
+l’Angloise_, and has much more correctly the appearance of an English
+garden, than the many very humble imitations, which Englishmen are so
+often invited to see in France, Germany, and other parts of the
+continent, under the abused title of “Jardin Anglois.”
+
+Mr. Ellcock’s favorite pursuit is botany. He is occupied in obtaining an
+extensive collection of rare and select plants, and of the different
+species of tropical fruits and trees. He is particularly curious
+regarding his orchard; but unfortunately he was from home, and the key
+was not to be found; hence we lost the opportunity of seeing perhaps the
+most varied, and valuable assemblage of fruit-trees in the island. Nor
+could we even steal one look at it through any opening, for the gate was
+close as the door of a convent, and the surrounding fence was a high
+hedge of the lignum vitæ, so thick and impenetrable as to resist even
+the prying eye of curiosity.
+
+Both the orchard and garden were originally planned, and have been
+wholly planted under the immediate inspection of Mr. Ellcock, to whose
+taste and industry every credit is due for the improvements made, and
+the very valuable productions already brought together.
+
+Although disappointed in this visit, we have still an eye to the
+collection, and do not intend to let it escape without minute
+observation; for should it happen that we may be called away, before we
+can return to it ourselves, we have made known its situation to a friend
+of ours, whose industry and acuteness in the science of botany will not
+allow a twig or a flower to pass unnoticed. Our colleague, Dr. Wright,
+is told where to find it, and as he is of the Charibbee island staff,
+and may remain longer here than ourselves, or may possibly be stationed
+in the island, it will be the greatest pleasure perhaps, that could
+offer to him, to explore this depôt of tropical plants.
+
+From Mr. Ellcock’s we rode to Bridge-town without further delay, and
+arrived in time to go off to the Lord Sheffield before the prohibited
+hour of nine, after which no boats are permitted to leave the shore.
+
+To bring into one point the sum of gratification afforded by this
+delightful excursion, would be a work of difficulty. You will form some
+idea of it from the loose details I have marked. It has offered us an
+abundant opportunity of seeing the whole face of the island; of viewing
+many of the different plantations; of observing the produce, and method
+of cultivation; of witnessing the manners and customs of the
+inhabitants; and of noticing the labours and habits of life of the
+slaves; whom we have seen in the fields,—in their huts,—in the
+sugar-works,—about the houses,—at their moments of rest and retirement,
+and amidst all their various occupations and modes of employment.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XXIV.
+
+
+ Carlisle Bay, Feb. 29.
+
+It proves that we might have lengthened our marooning excursion, without
+the slightest interruption from the fear of being called away to St.
+Domingo. Scarcely any vessels arrived in the bay during our absence, and
+very few have come in since our return. Our solicitude, concerning the
+commander in chief and the convoy, is still undiminished. One ship left
+them in one latitude, another in another, one parted from the fleet in
+the bay of Biscay, another off Portugal, a third off the coast of
+Africa, and others in different latitudes. Some suppose the convoy to
+have put into Lisbon, some say Gibraltar, and others various other
+ports. All is still enveloped in a cloud of uncertainty.
+
+One vessel has at length reached Barbadoes, which sailed subsequent to
+ourselves. It is a Glasgow trader, and you will judge what multitudes
+thronged on board, as soon as she entered the harbour, to ask for news.
+She brings papers of January, and we are much gratified to learn that
+the admiral had written to England, so late as the fourth of that month,
+saying that he had, then, with him one hundred and eleven sail!
+
+At this very interesting period of suspense, if a strange vessel enter
+the bay, the whole harbour becomes a crowded and moving scene, in
+consequence of almost every ship sending off a boat to seek tidings of
+the fleet. You, who can feel for our solicitude, will compassionate our
+disappointment, when we happen to find that she is not direct from
+England. This frequently occurs, and we return loaded with chagrin. Of
+two ships which have been this day thronged with eager visitors, one
+proved to be from Newfoundland with fish, and the other from the coast
+of Africa with slaves; consequently neither of them knew so much of
+England or the convoy as ourselves.
+
+I am sorry to tell you that information of an unpleasant nature has
+reached us from Grenada, in consequence of which it has been deemed
+expedient to embark a body of troops, on board the Expedition _armée en
+flute_, and other smaller vessels, to send to the relief of that island,
+without waiting for the arrival of the commander in chief.
+
+Could it have been known, that the remainder of the convoy would have
+been detained so many weeks behind us, the troops which have assembled
+at Barbadoes might have been beneficially employed in restoring
+tranquillity to our disordered islands, and, perhaps, have been still in
+time to have joined in the great, and more combined object of the
+campaign. But it is not given to humanity to foresee events, and the sad
+disasters of this formidable armament only tend to prove the extreme
+uncertainty which must ever attend our expeditions. The plan may be
+concerted with wisdom; all the necessaries amply provided; and the
+force, on sailing, fully adequate to the intended purposes: yet, after
+all, the lamentable fickleness of the elements will often frustrate the
+best and wisest arrangements.
+
+We have an encampment of negroes formed near Bridge-town, upon a spot
+called Constitution-hill. They are a fine body of men, who have been
+enlisted from the revolted French islands, or brought away on the
+evacuation of them by our troops. They are active and expert, and are
+training into a formidable corps to assist in our intended attacks.
+About sixteen hundred of them bear arms; besides whom there are twelve
+hundred to be employed as pioneers. They have all the vivacity and
+levity of the French character; and it, occasionally, affords us
+amusement to observe the Barbadoes negroes looking at them with evident
+amazement, and seemingly wondering at their volatility and alertness.
+John Bull differs not more widely from a Parisian _petit-maître_ than
+many of the Barbadoes slaves from the _sable fops_ of this sprightly
+corps.
+
+It is now the dry season of the year at Barbadoes, and if you have
+imbibed the same idea of a tropical climate which I remember to have
+once felt, you will learn, with surprise, that very few days have
+passed, since we have been here, without a refreshing shower of rain.
+The heat is far more supportable than we had expected. The thermometer,
+at noon, is commonly about 80, and very seldom exceeds 82: we have not
+yet seen it above 84.
+
+It happens, fortunately, that some of the ships, laden with the
+temporary hospitals, made in England, have reached Carlisle Bay, and,
+likewise, a few of the men belonging to the corps of artificers; who,
+together with some creole and negro carpenters, are actively employed in
+fitting and putting up these frames with all possible speed: but much of
+hurry and difficulty might have been avoided if the hospitals, the
+barracks, and other buildings had been sent out in time to have been put
+up before any of the troops, or any division of the moving part of the
+expedition came in.
+
+The confusion that must necessarily arise from the arrival of the
+soldiers, of the buildings requiring to be erected, and of all the
+various departments, at the same moment, must be self-evident; and it
+will readily appear, from the hurried and numerous claims each
+department will have upon the artificers, that many of the requisites
+attaching to the hospitals may not be completed, before the more urgent
+necessity for them may have ceased. Present experience may convey an
+useful lesson.
+
+From the great exertions now making we hope very soon to have hospital
+room at St. Anne’s Hill, for, at least, a thousand sick, and I am sorry
+to remark, from the unhealthy state in which some of the transports have
+already arrived, that it seems likely we may have occasion for it all;
+but we have the further convenience of hospital ships, should they be
+required, and have, therefore, the prospect of seeing all the sick very
+tolerably placed, and amply provided with such necessaries as their
+unfortunate condition may demand. This, to a medical officer, is a
+circumstance of no trivial import. To the service it is likewise
+essential: but, speaking as an individual, I know of few things that
+could be so truly distressing, as to behold a crowd of brave and
+suffering soldiers lying destitute of the comforts and accommodations
+required in sickness; and you will believe that I feel a cordial
+gratification in finding that I am not likely to witness this example of
+misery.
+
+In a moon-light walk lately from St. Anne’s Hill to Bridge-town, after
+our visit at the hospital, our attention was very powerfully arrested by
+the peculiar appearance of a grove of coco-nut trees, at the side of the
+road. From the brightness of the moon, the peculiar form of the trees,
+and the dead stillness of the night, we were suddenly struck with the
+grandeur and solemnity of the scene. The trees grew nigh, one to
+another, and the naked trunks formed so many stately pillars, supporting
+their palmated summits, which, stretching to meet each other, assumed
+the semblance of extensive aisles of Gothic arches. A gentle breeze
+waved the leaves in soothing undulation, while the dark shading foliage
+shut out the silver moon-beams, allowing only an occasional ray to steal
+in at partial openings, to relieve the sepulchral gloom. At the same
+time the sea at the bottom of the grove rolled its tranquil billows in
+soft murmurs to the shore, and broke in whispers scarcely to be heard
+upon the sands.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XXV.
+
+
+ Barbadoes, March 1796.
+
+It being stipulated that all subjects of remark may find place in my
+_Notes_, you will not reproach me, if an occasional sentence shall
+chance to be given upon medical matters. Indeed, you have desired it
+should be so, and this prevents the necessity of apology.
+
+You will have collected, from what I have said before, that there are
+gentlemen engaged in the healing art in Barbadoes, who are, equally, an
+honor to their profession, and an ornament to society, and I may here
+repeat that many such are to be met with in the island. But it is an
+unhappy truth that there are others who are only pre-eminent in
+ignorance, for, alas! practitioners in medicine may be found in this
+colony, who, in learning and manners, are not far removed above the
+slaves. They are more illiterate than you can believe, and the very
+_negro doctors_ of the estates too justly vie with them in medical
+knowledge. It has happened to us to see, among them, men, who instead of
+having the care of the health and lives of their fellow-subjects, ought
+not to be intrusted to compound a pill, or a bolus. A tyro, advanced
+only a year or two in his apprenticeship, in England, is far better
+instructed in medicine, than some of the soi-disans and practising
+_proficients_ of Barbadoes. Totally unprepared with a classical
+education, and, indeed, wholly devoid of the very rudiments of
+literature, they indolently waste a few years, in the house, or idly
+looking out at the shop-window of some uneducated apothecary of the
+island, and then, in all the bold confidence of ignorance, they commence
+_Doctors_, feeling themselves fully qualified, without professional
+reading, without visiting the schools of Europe, without experience, and
+I might say, without thought, or judgment, to undertake the cure of all
+the direful maladies which afflict mankind; in short, without one
+necessary qualification do these creole _pretenders_ feel themselves
+competent to exercise all the various branches of the healing art.
+
+In every climate, a sound judgment, and an acuteness of discrimination,
+together with a correct knowledge of the human frame, are necessary to
+the successful treatment of diseases: but in the West Indies, where the
+attack is too commonly sudden, and the progress destructively rapid, if
+the disorder be neglected or badly treated, in its incipient stage,
+medicine becomes inefficient, and, too often, the disease cannot be
+subdued by all the art of the best-informed Physician. How lamentable,
+then, is it that such ignorant medicasters should be intrusted, and
+particularly in a tropical region, with the health and lives of
+multitudes of their fellow-beings!
+
+When we reflect that the riches and prosperity of a country are
+intimately connected with its population, and that the lives of men are
+of the greatest importance to the state, it becomes matter of surprise
+and astonishment, that, even in the remotest colony, such uninstructed
+pretenders should be permitted to disgrace the healing art. If that wise
+principle, “salus populi suprema lex,” be correct, and I suspect it
+cannot be disputed, the health of the people must be a subject of the
+highest consideration to every government: how then are we to account
+for the apathy which permits such dangerous _doctors_ to wield the
+destructive lance, or, how shall we explain the miscalculating policy
+which not only tolerates a tremendous host of empirics, but suffers them
+to over-run every part of the state, under the all-creating sanction of
+_a patent_, or allows them, on the bare privilege of bold assurance, to
+commit depredations upon the health, the purses, and _the lives_ of His
+Majesty’s subjects?
+
+In one of our late walks, near Bridge-town, we met with two small
+windmills, erected for the purpose of clearing the cotton from its
+seeds; and, as they happened to be in motion, we availed ourselves of
+the opportunity of waiting a short time, to witness the process. The
+cotton envelopes the seeds, forming the matrix in which they grow and
+are embedded; when pulled from the pod it is separated from them by
+being caused to pass through the bite of two small metallic rollers,
+placed horizontally, one over the other, and turned by the action of the
+mill. These going round, near to each other, are fed with the cotton,
+which they take in, without receiving the seeds, leaving them to fall to
+the ground, or into a basket below, while the cotton, drawn between the
+rollers, is ejected into a box on the opposite side. The process is so
+entirely simple, that it might be performed equally well by a smaller
+instrument worked with the hand, or the foot, and which we are told is
+the method practised in many of the colonies.
+
+Among the novelties which meet the eye of an European upon his arrival
+in the West Indies, is the practice of carrying the children across the
+hip, instead of seating them upon the arm. The lower class of white
+women, in Barbadoes, have adopted this custom, from the example of the
+negroes, among whom it seems to be the universal mode of nursing. A
+deformed negro is a very rare object, and this may probably be
+attributed, in great measure, to the management of them in their
+infancy: they have the advantage of being allowed to crawl about upon
+their hands and feet at a very early age, in perfect freedom,
+unrestrained by ligatures, or tight garments.
+
+Although the mode of carrying children upon the hip is the common method
+among the slaves, yet, when they have to take them to a great distance,
+they neither place them upon the hip, nor the arm, but upon the back;
+for which purpose a mere pocket-handkerchief, tied carelessly round the
+mother, often suffices.
+
+A few evenings ago I witnessed a scene of cruelty, which strongly
+exemplified the abject and wretched condition to which human beings are
+subjected in a life of slavery. It happened that I was waiting upon the
+quay for the Lord Sheffield’s boat, when two men, apparently white
+creoles, came up, and seized a negro, who was standing near me, accusing
+him of having run away from his master. The poor black assured them that
+he had no master,—that he belonged to Mrs. ——, that he was well known in
+the town, and that they must, certainly, have mistaken his person! Upon
+these grounds he strongly urged the impropriety of their taking him to
+prison: but, regardless of his remonstrances, and of their own error,
+they tied him with a thick cord, fastened his hands, and forced him
+towards the place of confinement! Curiosity led me to follow them. The
+poor man still pleaded his innocence, and the wrong they had committed,
+begging and praying to be allowed to refer them to his mistress, or to
+another family in the town, to identify his person. Heedless of his
+protestations and entreaties they still dragged him on, and from his
+only expressing a reluctance at being thus, unjustly, hurried to a
+prison, one of these hardened wretches struck him a violent blow on the
+head, with a large stick, calling out to the other, in broad Barbadoes
+accent, “Daa-am him, cut him down.”
+
+A little before they reached the prison they had to pass a door-way
+where there happened to be a strong light, by means of which one of
+these cruel instruments of the law of _force_ instantly recognised the
+poor ill-treated slave, and finding that they were actually guilty of
+the mistake which the negro had stated, he called out to his savage
+comrade, who had struck the helpless black upon the head, “Daa-am him, I
+know the fellow, we must let him go;” upon which, they both, with
+dreadful imprecations, ordered him to stand, _without stirring_, whilst
+they should untie him: and, upon his only moving his arm to expedite the
+loosening of the cord, they swore, that if he dared “_to stir_, or _look
+savage_,” they would “cut him down,” or put him “directly into prison.”
+Such was the compensation dealt him for the unjust and cruel treatment
+which he had already received. The wretches not only dragged the
+unoffending slave to a prison, in defiance of his solemn assurances of
+their having erroneously seized him, and without allowing him an appeal
+to any one who knew his person, but, because he ventured to say they
+were committing an error, had the inhumanity to strike him with a force
+sufficient to have fractured his skull, and to threaten him with the
+further severity of death, or a dungeon, should he dare only to cast a
+_look_ of displeasure.
+
+What must have been the feelings of this injured man! who, after being
+abused and maltreated, was put in fear of his life, if he should only
+permit nature to assume her seat on his brow,—if the cruelty, pain, and
+injustice which he had suffered, should only cause a mark of
+disapprobation to appear upon his countenance! But nature, however
+proscribed, was not to be restrained by such command! While the power of
+memory remains to me I can never—_never_ forget the indignant, but
+hopeless expression of injury which overspread the features of this poor
+slave, as he retired! He felt aggrieved, and was conscious that——he had
+no remedy,—no appeal!
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XXVI.
+
+
+ Barbadoes, March 9.
+
+It occurs to me that, amidst all the uncertainties of our unfortunate
+fleet, it may be pleasant to you and others of our friends to know which
+of the ships have made good the passage; I send you, therefore, the
+annexed list of upwards of sixty, which are now safe at anchor in
+Carlisle Bay.
+
+A vessel from Liverpool is come into harbour, which sailed on the 9th of
+January, but we are still without any late news of the fleet, which took
+its departure on the 9th of December; and, singular to tell, the
+Liverpool ship, now arrived, performed the whole voyage without falling
+in with any one of the convoy. It is now thirteen weeks since the fleet
+left England, and we know about as much concerning the great body of it,
+at this moment, as if it were sailing in the moon.
+
+We, who are destined to proceed to St. Domingo, have new disappointment
+in finding that the Cork division, intended for that island, had not
+sailed at a date many weeks subsequent to the time when it had been
+reported to be at sea; and we now feel it probable that we may be long
+detained or even placed on duty at Barbadoes, in consequence of the
+increasing number of sick, and the non-arrival of the medical officers
+of the Charibbee Island, or what is incorrectly called the
+_Leeward_-Island staff.
+
+You will be surprised, perhaps, to know that the transports in Carlisle
+Bay have been several times interrupted, and the whole harbour
+disturbed, and brought into a state of anxiety, by the visitings of
+different press-gangs, in the exercise of that necessary custom, so
+repugnant to the feelings, and the freedom of Englishmen.
+
+In one instance an alarming scene took place in consequence of the
+sailors of one of the ships resisting this arbitrary and
+unconstitutional method of obtaining their services. They opposed the
+boarding, and beat off the agent, and two boats with the press-gang.
+This resistance was soon followed by the appearance of a party of
+soldiers, with firelocks and fixed bayonets, who were called to aid the
+press-party, and to force the sailors to submission.
+
+It has been our fortune on board the Lord Sheffield to be visited by two
+different bodies of the press-gang in the course of the same night: one
+of which came alongside at midnight; the other at two o’clock in the
+morning. From stealing upon us unexpectedly, and in the dark, you will
+suppose that much hurry and confusion was created. Being wakened by the
+noise of people over my head, I put on my _robe de chambre_, and went up
+to learn the cause, when, finding what visitors they were, I felt a
+strong disposition to observe their conduct and manner of proceeding,
+and therefore remained upon deck, during the time they continued on
+board.
+
+A Lieutenant of the navy was stalking up and down with a huge drawn
+sabre in his hand, calling out, with boatswain’s lungs, for the steward
+to bring a light. His men were running about every part of the ship with
+cutlasses, pistols, hangers, and various other weapons. The sailors whom
+they found upon deck, were instantly tumbled into a boat at the side,
+filled with armed men; the others secreted themselves in holes and
+corners, while the old steward with seeming haste, but with fox-like
+cunning, delayed the candle. Perhaps you will say it was a little severe
+to demand a light, at all, from the ship, in order to rob her of her own
+men; but the whole proceeding was alike arbitrary and despotic, and this
+only consistent with the other parts of it. They came in darkness, and
+with muffled oars, that they might take the vessel by surprise.
+
+The steward, somewhat endangered, from the ire which he had provoked by
+his well-contrived delay, at length appeared with the lantern; and a
+general search was immediately made below. The cabins,—the
+cable-tier,—the pantries,—the lockers,—the very pig-sty,—every hole and
+corner they could think of were hunted out, and they seemed resolved
+that not a spot should be omitted. Yet, notwithstanding all their
+vigilance, several of the sailors contrived to elude the search. One,
+who had not time to escape to a place of more probable security,
+remained quietly in his hammock, and, when they came to examine it,
+affected to awake uttering a loud groan, strongly expressive of pain and
+suffering. Hearing this, the press-gang asked who it was, and if a
+sailor. The mate, who was watching them with a vigilance not inferior to
+their own, immediately replied that it was a sick man, who had been long
+confined to his birth. His promptitude was successful: sick men they did
+not want; and the sailor was left undisturbed—his freedom the fruit of
+his well-timed stratagem, and of the expertness of the mate in promoting
+it.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XXVII.
+
+
+ Barbadoes, March 15.
+
+We made a visit this morning to the senate-house, and were present at a
+sitting of the general assembly of the island. The proceedings were
+conducted according to the routine of our House of Commons, which the
+assembly regards as its model. The representatives, like ours, are
+returned from the provinces, two, not from each county, but from each
+parish: and, there being eleven parishes in the island, the assembly,
+consequently, consists of twenty-two members.
+
+As in our house, so in theirs, the person who presides is denominated
+“the speaker.”
+
+Among the members we recognised several of the gentlemen whom we had
+seen upon our marooning excursion into the country. It did not happen to
+be a sitting of great interest to strangers, there being but little
+before the house for discussion, and, consequently, few debates. Reading
+and passing a militia act, and some other bills, constituted nearly the
+whole business of the meeting. One part of the proceedings, however, we
+thought to be strictly in the —— _order of the day_. It was excessively
+warm, and we were parching with thirst, when two persons suddenly
+appeared with a large bowl, and a two-quart glass filled with punch and
+sangaree. These were presented to “Mr. Speaker,” who, after dipping
+deeply into the bowl, passed it among the members: nor was the audience
+forgotten, for we were most gratefully taught that the hospitality, so
+universal in the island, prevails in the senate. The glass was handed up
+to us, and we found that it was _relevant_ for strangers to join in this
+part of the debate. It came at a moment peculiarly opportune, and we
+drank cordially to our friends, and the house of assembly.
+
+We have, lately, had a very interesting party to dine with us on board
+the Lord Sheffield; among whom were three gentlemen who had recently
+returned from imprisonment; one from France, the others from Guadaloupe.
+
+One of the gentlemen, who had been taken to Guadaloupe, was confined on
+board a prison-ship, with several others of our countrymen, where, being
+treated with great rigour, and fed with a very scanty allowance of bad
+food, he entered into a confidential agreement, with one of his
+fellow-prisoners, to concert some means of escape; and, one day, seeing
+a boat, convenient for their purpose, come to the ship, they stepped
+over the side of the vessel, and descending suddenly into it, as it lay
+alongside, immediately threw overboard three of the five negroes, who
+were in it, and compelled the other two to take up their oars, and
+assist in rowing them away.
+
+The success of this perilous enterprise was equal to the boldness with
+which it was undertaken. The sentinels fired at them in vain: being once
+clear of the ship they pulled the oars with vigour, and, encouraging the
+blacks to their aid, were soon out of reach. Neither boats, nor bullets
+were able to overtake them: they were quickly at sea, in their open
+skiff, and, gladly, entrusted themselves to the mercy of the elements.
+The weather favored them, and they soon made a port of safety in a
+British island.
+
+The manner in which the other gentleman, who had been confined in
+Guadaloupe, obtained his release was also attended with peculiar
+circumstances. Having an opportunity of speaking with the secretary of
+Victor Hugues, he represented to him, in strong colours, the very
+serious personal injury which his confinement might bring upon him, and
+urged the absolute impossibility of his release being injurious to any
+individual of the French nation, supporting his appeal with the offer of
+a sum nearly equal to 1200_l._ sterling, to be paid to the citizen
+secretary, provided he would contribute his aid in obtaining him and two
+of his friends permission to leave the island. The secretary rejected
+the offer with disdain, expressing both anger and astonishment that he
+should dare to imagine that he was capable of being seduced by a bribe;
+adding, that “formerly Frenchmen were venal and might be _bought_; but
+now, citoyen, we are republicans! and a good republican requires not a
+bribe to encourage him to the execution of his duty, nor can he be
+thereby impelled to commit a breach of it.” He, nevertheless, listened
+with attention to the peculiar severity of the case, and having heard
+the particulars, appeared to feel a degree of interest regarding the
+hardships which were represented. Upon leaving the gentleman he said
+that he would try to intercede in his behalf; and intimated a hope that
+he might be able in the course of a week to communicate some report to
+him. A few days only had elapsed when he returned, bringing with him the
+prisoner’s release, which he presented to him, with felicitations,
+expressing himself happy in being the means of his regaining his
+liberty, and, peremptorily, refusing to accept, even the slightest
+compliment for the service which he had rendered him.
+
+Would all men act thus, my friend, of how little consequence might it be
+whether they were denominated republicans, aristocrats, or royalists!
+What the form of government, or who should rule the land, could be of
+little importance, were honor and virtue made the directors of men’s
+actions. Speaking from the warm feelings of the heart, a very elegant
+writer has said, “I cannot be more convinced of the truth of any
+demonstration in Euclid than I am that that system of politics must be
+best by which those I love are made happy:” but, perhaps, it might be
+said, with still greater correctness, that _that system of government
+must be best, virtue, among the people, most prevails_.
+
+It is idle to declaim against a government, while individuals—while even
+_those who complain_ have not virtue enough to withstand the seducing
+lures of corruption! Let the people be virtuous, and the government will
+never be corrupt. Were men to resist bribery, and to expose their
+seducers to public reproach, few attempts would be made against their
+independence.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XXVIII.
+
+
+ Barbadoes, March 16.
+
+What a day of hurry, confusion, and solicitude! A packet has at length
+arrived! From December the 9th, to March the 16th, we have been
+separated from you, without hearing one word of our friends, or scarcely
+of our country. How shall I convey to you any just idea of the scene
+which this day has produced, by the impatient multitude crowding in
+anxious eagerness to obtain letters, to see the papers, and to ascertain
+the news!
+
+Early in the morning a signal appeared at the fort, implying that a
+vessel was in sight. Soon afterwards, this was lowered down, and the
+packet signal hoisted in its place; when instead of the pleasing
+expectation of seeing a vessel of our fleet, and learning tidings of the
+convoy, all were on tiptoe in the still more lively hope of hearing not
+only of our unfortunate armada, but of Europe, of England, and —— our
+friends! Concerning the fleet we had grown quite weary of conjecture,
+and now saw it probable that we might obtain more accurate intelligence
+respecting it, by way of England, than by any ship which had been
+separated from it upon the passage.
+
+On the packet making the harbour it caused a crowd not unlike what you
+may have seen at a sailing or rowing match upon the Thames. Each wishing
+to be first, and all being eager to learn the reports, the vessel was
+beset on every quarter before she could come to anchor, and the whole
+bay became one animated scene of crowded ships and moving boats. Many
+who could not go to the packet as she entered the harbour, repaired on
+shore to be ready, there, to meet the news. The people of the town,
+also, thronged the beach in anxious multitudes. All was busy
+expectation. Impatience scarcely allowed the bags to reach the office:
+every avenue to which was so closely blockaded that the house was quite
+in a state of siege, and the post-master and his mansion in danger of
+being taken by storm.
+
+It was about eleven o’clock when the inspector-general, Dr. Master, and
+myself, following the common impulse, went to inquire for our letters
+and papers; but we could only advance within sight of the post-office
+walls,—to approach the door was utterly impossible.
+
+Seeing no prospect of ascertaining whether we had any letters, we
+returned from the hot and crowded town to take our dinners quietly on
+board, and to enjoy the high feast of reading some newspapers, which our
+obliging and attentive friend, Mr. Hinde, had kindly allowed us to put
+into our pockets. You will believe that this formed a most exquisite
+dessert after our meal, and was of more grateful flavour than all the
+fruits and sweets of a tropical soil.
+
+To an Englishman a newspaper is a never-failing source of amusement; and
+the high delight thence derived appears to be, in some measure, peculiar
+to our nation. If, therefore, even at home, and in a peaceful hour, it
+be a great pleasure to take up the Times or the Chronicle of the
+morning, I put it to your feelings to judge what must have been our
+enjoyment, when I tell you that, at this wide distance from our country,
+and after being long shut in ignorance regarding it, we have been
+quietly seated, in the shade of a cool cabin, perusing papers in the
+regular series of a whole fortnight. We remained for several hours
+secluded and in silence, each fearing to speak lest he should disturb
+the others. If you had not been already a traveller I could have wished
+you a long voyage, that you might know the real value of a Morning
+Herald, or an Evening Star—that you might enjoy the high flavour of a
+true English feast, seasoned with absence! Send out our friend ****,
+that he may be roused from the apathy which so distressfully encroaches
+upon his mechanical round of luxury and indulgence! Tell him that if he
+were held in disappointed expectation, from day to day, through many
+anxious weeks, he would find the amusements which he now partakes with
+indifference to be really exquisite; and assure him that the variety of
+occurrences, during a temporary privation, might divert him from a life
+of indolence and palling pleasure, and convince him that many things,
+which he now disregards, are capable of affording far more enjoyment,
+than the vapid time-killing routine of parading in Bond-street, treading
+upon muslin trains in the crowd of Kensington-gardens, or lounging at
+the play and the opera, without hearing five words of the performance!
+
+The arrival of the packet has removed the uncertainty regarding our
+convoy, but not so satisfactorily as we had hoped; for we have the
+mortification to learn that the fleet, with which we sailed from
+Spithead on the 9th of December, and which, for so long past, we have
+hourly expected, instead of being safe at Barbadoes, is lying quietly at
+anchor in England!
+
+From the papers it is ascertained that the great body of the convoy,
+with our commander in chief and the admiral, are returned to St.
+Helen’s, after continuing seven tedious weeks at sea, beating against
+contrary winds and destructive storms, and that many of the ships, which
+had separated, had previously put back to Cork, Kinsale, Plymouth, and
+various other ports. This is very distressing and vexatious news, for it
+robs us of the pleasing hope with which we had expected our comrades,
+and tells us that all still remains —— to be done again! Twice has this
+great expedition put to sea, and during many months has it been, daily,
+expected to arrive: yet after a long suspense do we now learn that it is
+still in an English harbour, only preparing to sail!
+
+A voyage to the East Indies or to China might be performed in less time
+than seems to be required for this unhappy fleet to reach its
+destination. It was intended to sail so long since as the month of
+September, and actually did put to sea in November, and again on the 9th
+of December, and its arrival has been impatiently looked for, by the
+people of the islands, during more than half a year!
+
+The season is rapidly advancing: the milder temperature of the climate,
+and the more favorable period of the year are wearing away, and the wet
+months fast approaching: we fear, therefore, that all the ills to be
+apprehended from climate may overtake us in the midst of the campaign,
+or even before the troops can be brought into action.
+
+When or how the convoy is again to attempt the voyage we do not learn;
+but it seems to be the opinion, on your side the water, that the
+commander in chief will sail in a frigate without delay, and that the
+fleet will follow, in small divisions, as speedily as the ships can be
+repaired and made ready for sea. This would undoubtedly be most
+advisable; for the waiting to assemble large bodies of vessels, and the
+delays and accidents which necessarily happen to them at sea, seem to be
+the very bane of the enterprise.
+
+We are still told that the Cork division may be daily expected, yet we
+learn that it had not sailed when the packet left Falmouth. From all we
+can collect it seems probable that more than six thousand troops, and
+upwards of sixty ships, many long since arrived, may have still to wait
+through another tedious period at Barbadoes.
+
+We find it among the reports of the day that honors are to be conferred
+on the Admiral for braving the weather, during so many weeks at sea, and
+returning to port _in England_ with so great a number of the convoy in
+safety. On reading this the captain of our ship wittily asked “What
+honors are those to receive, then, who fought through all the perilous
+storms, and have made good their passage to a port _in the West
+Indies_?”
+
+The papers we have received having been printed during the Christmas
+holidays, furnish us with no parliamentary news; but we learn from them,
+with much regret, that our country experiences a scarcity of corn, and
+of specie. Without money and without bread John Bull would make war very
+badly indeed! Wheat we find is at the extravagant price of thirteen
+shillings per bushel, and bread as high as thirteen-pence half-penny the
+quartern loaf. This, we fear, may create dissatisfaction, and lead to
+commotions and ill-judged excesses, from the people erroneously
+attributing events to causes which have no just connexion with them[5].
+
+I am sorry to have again to tell you that late accounts from Grenada
+state the island to be in great danger, and that we hold possession of
+it by a very precarious tenure, the troops being pent up in the town,
+and not in sufficient force to march against the Brigands. From St.
+Vincent we hear, also, that the inhabitants have been obliged to fly to
+arms to assist the military, and that still they are not strong enough
+to defeat the Charibs. It is further added that the negroes, impatient
+of remaining inactive, have petitioned to be sent against the enemy,
+threatening to go over to the Charibs if not soon employed to subdue
+them.
+
+I had nearly forgotten to mention that a French spy has been detected
+among us, who has been, for some time, watching the proceedings of the
+fleet at Barbadoes. It were unnecessary to add that his life will be the
+forfeit of his temerity.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ March 17.
+
+How eventful are the hours which now pass before us! The sons of St.
+Patrick have not felt themselves more blessed, nor have they hailed in
+more joyous greetings this hallowed day than the anxious multitude at
+Barbadoes. It was only yesterday that I took up my pen to announce to
+you a glad arrival, and I have now to mention one still more happy.
+Before breakfast this morning a signal appeared at the fort, implying
+that a ship of war was in sight; and about eight o’clock a proud
+frigate, with sails swelling to the breeze, cut her liquid path silently
+into the bay, and dropped her anchor in the midst of the fleet. A
+general feeling of joy, instantly, spread throughout the harbour. It was
+the Arethusa, with Sir Ralph Abercromby, and the officers of his staff
+on board. A signal was made from the agent, and all the ships in the bay
+immediately manned their yards and rigging, to hail, and to welcome, in
+loud salutation, our long-expected commander in chief. Three heart-felt
+cheers were, rapturously, shouted from every vessel, and as cordially
+echoed by the Arethusa’s company.
+
+The scene thus introduced was novel. It was, also, highly interesting.
+The yards, the tops, the masts and rigging of all the vessels being
+covered with men, they resembled clusters of bees, as they hang about
+the hive at the moment previous to swarming.
+
+Crowded as it was, the harbour resembled a thick forest, the leaves of
+which were men, not rustling in the wind, but set in motion by the more
+animating breeze of joy and gratulation. Loud shouts of welcome
+resounded throughout the bay, and when the General went off in the boat
+towards the landing-place, each ship repeated three cheers as he passed;
+the multitude upon the beach again shouting his welcome as he stepped on
+shore. On reaching the government-house at Pilgrim he was received by a
+salute of twenty-one guns. The same number was then repeated from the
+fort, which, we remarked, did not fire any salute when the frigate
+entered the harbour.
+
+All is now motion and activity. An impulsive sensation vibrates
+throughout the bay. Every breast throbs with ardour, and, inspired by
+the presence of the commander in chief, all look forward to a successful
+campaign. No one imagines that fate has destined him to fall; but each
+anticipates the joyous moment, when he shall return to relate, to his
+friends in peaceful England, histories of battles won, and islands
+conquered. Yet, alas! to how few is it allotted again to visit either
+England or their friends! But to such reflections let me be silent! to
+speak them were unmilitary! Still the duties I may have to perform will,
+sometimes, call up strong associations in my mind, and amidst the busy
+din of war, or the loud rejoicings of victory, my heart will often swell
+with painful sympathy, in the contemplation of individual sufferings and
+affliction.
+
+In his third attempt to reach the islands the commander in chief has
+been very successful; the Arethusa having sailed only on the 14th of
+February, and, consequently, made the voyage in thirty days.
+
+It is now rumoured that none but the troops, belonging to those
+regiments already in the West Indies, are to come out with the fleet;
+and that the others are actually sent into cantonments, in England,
+there to remain until next September, before they again sail for the
+West Indies. Of this we have many doubts; yet might it seem to be a
+prudent arrangement: for, advanced as the season now is, it were,
+perhaps, wise to postpone the grand object of the expedition until
+December; and to employ the troops which are now here in restoring
+tranquillity to our disturbed and endangered islands, thus fulfilling
+the more immediate, although perhaps the minor objects of the armament.
+
+A body of troops brought out in October or November would have the
+season before them for a long campaign, but were they to leave England
+now, the length of time required for the voyage and for their being
+assembled at Barbadoes, and again prepared for leaving it, would bring
+them so near to the wet season, and to the hot and unhealthy period of
+the year, that not only would multitudes fall victims to disease, but
+impediments, occasioned by the weather, might interrupt the proceedings
+before anything important could be effected.
+
+We find that the Cork fleet has, unquestionably, been for several weeks
+at sea, and may be daily expected; the Arethusa having spoken several of
+the ships of that convoy upon her passage. At the time this frigate came
+into the bay two other ships appeared in sight: they are since arrived,
+and prove to be the General Cuyler merchantman, of our division (long
+supposed to be lost), and the Clarendon transport of the Cork division:
+their arrival, and the reported approach of the Cork fleet, add to the
+auspicious events of St. Patrick’s day.
+
+The sad uncertainties of a sea voyage are strongly exemplified in the
+combined arrival of the General Cuyler and the Clarendon. The one sailed
+on the 9th of December, and the other on the 9th of February (periods
+more distant than the time usually required for making the voyage); yet,
+so favorable had been the elements to the one, and so adverse to the
+other, that they both came into Carlisle Bay at the same moment.
+
+The Clarendon, we are told, left the harbour of Cove with a fleet of 132
+sail, having ten thousand troops on board; but she parted from the
+convoy, in the course of the first night, and has not seen any ship
+belonging to it since. She has brought out nearly 200 men of the 99th
+regiment, who, we are sorry to find, have been very unhealthy,
+notwithstanding the quick passage they have made. From this we are led
+to fear that those who are longer detained at sea may arrive in a very
+sickly state.
+
+The safety of the General Cuyler spread consolation among us, and very
+much augmented the great and general joy diffused by the presence of the
+commander in chief. You will feel that I had real pleasure in
+felicitating my friend Nichol, who was one of the passengers, when I
+tell you that it had obtained universal belief that this ship was lost
+at sea, or, at best, taken by the enemy. Indeed, for several weeks past,
+such had been the despondent feelings regarding her, that it would have
+been a great relief to us to have heard that she was in the enemy’s
+possession. She had sailed with us on the 9th of December, and was the
+last ship we had spoken in the European seas, which was on the 4th of
+January, and on the 10th of February we reached Carlisle Bay; hence,
+from our having been five weeks in harbour without hearing of her,
+scarcely a hope remained of ever seeing her again. Nor were our
+apprehensions far from being realized, for on the 7th of January, only
+three days after we had hailed her, she sprung a leak, and during twenty
+succeeding days, was merely kept from sinking by the persevering toil
+and exertions of the ship’s company and the passengers, all of whom took
+their regular watch at the pumps, for six or eight hours each day. With
+great difficulty she was preserved afloat: daily their peril increased,
+and, for nearly three weeks, they had the melancholy prospect of going
+to the bottom. Almost exhausted with fatigue and apprehension, the hope
+of being saved had nearly abandoned them, when, fortunately, they made
+one of the Canary Islands.
+
+Few occurrences can be so truly distressing, or so strongly calculated
+to weigh down the mind with desponding feelings, as this critical, and
+very perilous situation at sea. To prevent the threatened fate,
+excessive bodily exertions are required, when, from the impression of
+terror, a sufficient degree of hope scarcely remains to stimulate or
+support the fatigue. Extreme toil is demanded, perhaps, too, in an
+exhausting, and ungenial climate, and under the depressing prospect of
+the vessel sinking notwithstanding every effort!
+
+The Dutch are said to have a mode of punishment somewhat resembling this
+very dangerous and afflicting situation, although infinitely removed
+from it, on account of the person who is exposed to it knowing a certain
+means of saving himself, provided he has enough of industry to continue
+his exertions. The prisoner is confined in a room, into which water is
+made constantly to flow, so increasing in depth that he must,
+inevitably, be drowned if he be idle: but if he will be industrious and
+persevere at the pump, he knows that a certain proportion of labour will
+keep down the water, and preserve his life. Surely none but the
+amphibious and toiling Hollanders could have invented such a watery
+punishment! although it must be allowed to be a most excellent one
+against idleness. But in a leaky ship at sea no such certainty is
+attainable. The leak may increase, and no human effort be sufficient to
+keep the vessel upon the surface; yet all resource is denied, and the
+impending doom can, no way, be averted! No mental powers, no bodily
+exertion can avail. Safety is not to be procured by any effort of
+strength, or wisdom: no opening is left for intellect or enterprise:
+each road leads equally to despair; and the event can neither be avoided
+nor resisted. On either hand the wretched sufferers see only the wide
+jaw of destruction. The leak still increasing, the water continues to
+gain upon all the means employed. It grows deeper: the sinking ship
+moves heavily on: her weight opposes all the force of wind and sails:
+she labours to proceed: her progress is more and more impeded: the slow
+motion ceases at intervals: a dread pause succeeds: the ship no longer
+moves! A momentary silence,—a death-like stillness prevails throughout
+the crew. She sinks to the bottom, and all hands perish in the silent
+deep.
+
+You will join in our rejoicings that such, although long threatened, was
+not the fate of the General Cuyler. Happily she put into Palmas, and was
+saved. At the time of gaining the harbour she had many feet water in the
+hold, and, only with great exertion, was kept afloat while the cargo was
+removed. A fortnight’s delay was occasioned in repairing her, and
+fitting her for the remainder of the voyage. It is upwards of fourteen
+weeks since she sailed from England, twelve of which have been actually
+passed at sea: most of them in struggling against storms and
+gales—against contrary winds, and contending elements!
+
+The passengers are struck with surprise to find that, even at this late
+period, their ship is among the _early arrivals_ of the convoy; having
+imagined that, during their perilous delay, the whole fleet must have
+reached Barbadoes, and the troops have again embarked for their
+respective destinations.
+
+On the other hand, all who arrive in the ships from England or Ireland
+are astonished to find so many vessels of the convoy at Barbadoes,
+having been led to believe, by the reports of those who returned, that
+the whole must have either gone back, put into different ports on the
+passage, or been lost at sea.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XXIX.
+
+
+ Barbadoes, March 22.
+
+Carlisle Bay is become quite the busy Thames of the West Indies.
+Scarcely a day passes without the arrival of vessels from one part of
+the globe or another. To us this affords a degree of interest and
+amusement; for we are frequently enlivened by the signals made for
+vessels either coming into harbour, or appearing in sight, and which
+prove to be from different, and widely separated coasts. English ships
+of war, merchantmen, and transports; slave-ships from the coast of
+Africa; packets, prizes, American traders; island vessels, privateers,
+fishing smacks, and different kinds of boats, cutters, and luggers, are
+among the almost hourly variety, to be seen either entering or quitting
+Carlisle Bay.
+
+The day after the Arethusa came in we were early enlivened by signals
+for two other vessels approaching from windward; but they proved to be
+ships from very opposite coasts; one being from Halifax; the other a
+Guinea-man with a cargo of slaves from Africa.
+
+Several vessels of the Cork division have joined us within the few last
+days; but none of them bring any accurate tidings of the fleet; most of
+them having parted from the convoy, during the first or second night
+after quitting the harbour, and not having met with it since. The
+Charlotte transport was chased by a privateer at the distance of only a
+few leagues from Barbadoes, and must, inevitably, have been taken, but
+for the fortunate circumstance of a slave-ship, from the coast of
+Guinea, coming up at the time, and engaging her pursuer. A running
+action was maintained, for two hours, between this ship and the
+privateer, when the latter sheered off, leaving the Guinea-man, and her
+protegée, to proceed quietly to Barbadoes; the slave-ship having
+suffered considerably in her rigging.
+
+The Madras East Indiaman and a packet are this day arrived from England.
+They departed, the one from Falmouth, the other from St. Helen’s, on the
+23d of February, and have completed the passage within a month. The
+Madras brings a cargo of ordnance stores. She sailed alone, and made a
+running voyage. Several persons availed themselves of the opportunity of
+coming out in this ship as passengers: she has also a small party of
+artillery-men on board.
+
+The arrival of the present packet has not caused so great a sensation as
+was produced by the appearance of that which I mentioned to you before,
+although we are much pleased and gratified to see it. We have now an
+ample supply both of English and American papers, and from the arrivals
+being more frequent, and the commander in chief among us, the sad torpor
+of the preceding weeks no longer reigns. Activity prevails, and the
+suspense of waiting is alleviated by busy preparation.
+
+We have lately had an opportunity of visiting the Venus slave-ship of
+London, just arrived with a cargo of blacks, from the coast of Africa.
+The ship appeared small: there was a want of space, and the negroes
+seemed crowded; but, in all other respects, we were pleased to remark
+the excellence of the accommodations, and the great attention paid to
+the health and comfort of the slaves. The cargo consisted of 230 prime
+negroes, all in high health, and good spirits. The ship was remarkably
+clean. No sickness had occurred among the Africans, or the crew; nor had
+any one died upon the passage. They made the voyage in six weeks, and
+the slaves were fed the whole time with Guinea corn. The average value
+of the cargo is calculated at nearly 50_l._ for each person. The captain
+has but few hands in his ship’s company, yet, from his kind treatment of
+the blacks, he has so well secured their attachment and obedience, as to
+feel no apprehension of a revolt, or of any occurrence to menace their
+safety.
+
+Dr. Cleghorn and myself continue our pedestrian excursions about the
+neighbourhood of the bay. In one of our late rambles we ascended some
+hills in the vicinity of Bridge-town, which afford a fine landscape of
+the island, together with a view of the town, the harbour, and the sea.
+
+Situated below this mountainous range is the plantation of a Mr. Daniel;
+an old estate which is sheltered, and rendered picturesque by the
+adjoining hills. Here we saw a very lofty and fine avenue of trees, of
+the valuable lignum vitæ; also an immensely large and ancient tamarind
+tree, of more extended branches, and wider trunk than the antique oaks,
+or spreading elms, which are sometimes seen to grace the door-way of our
+old English dwellings. The tamarind is of the Mimosa tribe, and may be
+regarded as a very handsome example of vegetable production. It bears an
+immense quantity of fruit, which hanging among the small leaves, in the
+numerous pods of a dirty brown colour, gives a singular appearance,
+without adding to the beauty of the tree. Upon this old ornament of the
+mansion were many bushels, perhaps I might say many hogsheads of
+tamarinds, which were left to fall useless on the ground. Esteemed as
+this fruit is in Europe, in its preserved state, it seems to be as
+little valued here, as the common crab of the hedges in England, and is
+equally neglected, not being considered worth the labour of gathering,
+or the expense of the sugar required in preserving it.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XXX.
+
+
+ Barbadoes, March.
+
+I should have mentioned to you in my last letter, that, from joining in
+the general greetings on the glad occasion of Sir R. Abercromby’s
+long-expected arrival, and hoping to learn that we were immediately to
+proceed to St. Domingo, we lost no time in waiting upon the commander in
+chief: but I am sorry to tell you that we are likely to be detained
+longer from our place of destination, it being intended that we should
+wait the arrival of General Whyte, and the Cork division, and all
+proceed to St. Domingo under the same convoy.
+
+I am happy to announce to you that the ills of climate have, hitherto,
+scarcely reached me: but my friends Cleghorn and Master are greater
+sufferers than myself. All of us are annoyed by the prickly heat, and
+those tormenting insects the musquitoes; but, in Cleghorn, the prickly
+heat is so violent, as to become a sore eruption; and, on the legs of
+Master, the bites of musquitoes have produced very troublesome ulcers:
+in addition to these evils, both of my friends are frequently seized
+with bleeding at the nose; with which I have not been once attacked.
+
+Notwithstanding that they are more disturbed by the effects of climate
+than I am, they often amuse themselves at my continuing to observe an
+abstemious diet, and to persevere in the habit of drinking water; and
+are even bold enough to propose that we should establish a tontine, with
+the benefit of survivorship. “Let us,” say they, “enter into an
+engagement that he who lives longest shall be entitled to the clothes,
+arms, baggage, and horses of those who may chance to die, previous to
+our return to England. Water,” continue they, “will render you the most
+palatable to the hungry devourer of these regions, and, of course, _you_
+will be his earliest prey.”—“On the contrary, my friends,” I reply, “you
+lay a bait for this ravenous destroyer, by preparing for him inviting
+juices, enriched with wine, and high-essenced dishes!”
+
+Were it fit to take up this subject professionally, or to trouble you
+with medical discussions, I might offer some powerful reasons why I have
+a better chance of again seeing England, than either of my agreeable
+associates. Our comrade, Weir, smiles at our calculations, and being in
+a manner secure, from having undergone nine years seasoning at Jamaica,
+feels it probable that he may have to return alone, and report the fate
+of us all.
+
+Endless, surely, are to be the vexations and disappointments attending
+this expedition! In every attempt, every branch of it would seem
+destined to meet with delay and disaster. In the papers, received by the
+last packet, we read that the Cork fleet, which we had flattered
+ourselves was within a few leagues of Barbadoes, has put back into Cove
+harbour. In this we have great and severe disappointment. It was the
+division with which we were to proceed to our place of destination, and
+from the ships which have already arrived reporting so favorably of the
+voyage, and the weather, it is a mortification very unexpected.
+
+We have now to bid adieu to our rural excursions, and maroon-like
+wanderings, about the pleasant island of Barbadoes; for it is ordered
+that the physicians of the St. Domingo staff shall consider themselves
+on duty, at the general hospital at St. Anne’s Hill; and it has fallen
+to my lot to be the first employed. We are also further required to
+inspect the troops on board the ships of the Cork division, as they come
+into harbour, in order to report their state of health, or disease.
+Luckily our residence, on board the Lord Sheffield, is singularly
+convenient for the performance of these services; we hope therefore to
+be able to continue our social mess; and to live in the cool breeze,
+afloat, instead of being crowded into close and heated lodgings on
+shore.
+
+Being in the bay, we readily see every ship as it comes in, and can,
+without delay, take off a boat to proceed upon our visit of inspection:
+nor are we less happily placed for the hospital, being able to reach it
+in a boat, much quicker than we could walk to it from the town.
+
+Sickness, I am sorry to remark, is already appearing among us. The
+hospitals are full, and some of the troops are obliged to quit their
+barracks, in order that these may be converted into sick wards: but do
+not imagine that we are suffering from disease of climate. It is not so.
+The disorder which now exists, has been brought with the troops. It is
+the common hospital or ship fever—is the consequence of the soldiers
+being long detained in crowded vessels, and has nothing to do with “_La
+Maladie du Pays_.”
+
+The ships of the Cork division, notwithstanding their quick passage,
+arrive with the troops in a very unhealthy state, but they must have
+been sickly when they embarked, or before they left the harbour. From
+the specimen we have in the Abergavenny and Hindostan, we have nothing
+favorable to expect from the seeming accommodation of employing such
+large vessels, as troop-ships. In none of the transports have we, yet,
+found the men more unhealthy: but, from the habits of cleanliness,
+commonly observed on board the East India ships, and, more especially,
+from several active and intelligent military officers being on board, no
+suspicion can be entertained of any of the rules of cleanliness or
+regularity having been neglected among the troops.
+
+To me it has always appeared unwise to employ any ship, as a transport
+for troops, in which the men are obliged to sleep upon two different
+decks, the one below the other; and, from present appearances, this
+expedition seems likely to strengthen the opinion.
+
+When so large a number as from three hundred to five hundred men, in
+addition to the ship’s company, make a passage in the same vessel, they
+cannot but be crowded; and if the weather should prove bad, it will be
+impossible to have the lower deck kept so clean, and well ventilated, as
+will be requisite: hence, from many of the soldiers becoming sick; from
+their taking food in their sleeping births; and crowding themselves with
+knapsacks, blankets, and other baggage; and from multitudes breathing
+together, in a close and confined place, the air must, very quickly, be
+rendered unwholesome, and disease will, necessarily, be generated. Where
+there are two decks it is also more difficult to keep the men
+sufficiently exposed to the open atmosphere, as the idle and disobedient
+can more easily conceal themselves, and remain below, throughout the
+day.
+
+The difference, in point of health, is peculiarly striking between the
+troops conveyed in transports from England, and the slaves brought in
+the Guinea ships from Africa. Perhaps, from the present mode of
+conducting the slave-ships, some useful hints might be derived, for the
+management of transports. The negroes are much more crowded than the
+soldiers, yet far more healthy. The cause of this, I much suspect will
+be found in the difference of treatment and accommodation. According to
+the present method of proceeding with the blacks, a Guinea ship would
+carry, with less danger of disease being generated among them, a cargo
+more than thrice as numerous as a transport would carry of soldiers.
+
+I took occasion to remark in a former letter that the nakedness of the
+slaves was their best security against sickness, but, in addition to
+their being without clothes, they are compelled to remain constantly
+upon deck in the daytime; and are encouraged to exercise and amusement:
+their sleeping-places are completely washed out as soon as they quit
+them; and no species of baggage, or clothing; not a bundle, nor any
+article of bedding; not even a blanket, or a sheet, nor any kind of
+thing that can create filth, or collect impurities is admitted.
+Ventilation and washing are strictly enjoined, and the slaves are
+reduced, or compelled to observe cleanliness of person: together with
+these means, perhaps their simple diet of vegetables and water may
+greatly contribute, by diminishing the predisposition, and lessening the
+susceptibility of disease.
+
+Hence it would seem that cleanliness, exercise, cheerfulness, a simple
+diet, and free exposure to the atmosphere are the great preventives of
+illness; and that by a strict observance of these means the negroes make
+the voyage, from Africa to the West Indies, without engendering
+infectious maladies, although infinitely more crowded, than troops on
+board the most confined transport.
+
+Many causes conspire to prevent these grand objects from being equally
+attained by the soldiers; but it is a desideratum, even, to approach
+them. If I were to enter into a detail of all that might be offered upon
+this very important subject, instead of a letter I should write a
+volume. The difference of climate, of habit, of education, and of diet
+would all require to be taken into the discussion; but it were foreign
+to our present purpose to engage in such an extensive inquiry. I may
+content myself, therefore, with adding that, both in regard to
+transports, and barracks, the service would reap the most essential
+benefit, if the rules, which might be prescribed by its medical
+officers, were strictly followed; and policy, no less than humanity
+seems to demand it.
+
+I must not forget to tell you, that the 23d instant was the hottest day
+we have felt, since our arrival between the tropics. In the morning the
+thermometer stood at 73°, and the weather was pleasantly cool, but it
+afterwards grew very close, and the little air that was stirring, coming
+from the south, we felt the temperature much increased, and every one
+complained of excessive heat. We were on shore during the forenoon, but
+having left our thermometers in the ship, had not the opportunity of
+observing the degree of heat, either in the town, or the bay: from our
+feelings, compared with the preceding days, we judge it to have been at
+least 86.
+
+Although it was unusually hot and oppressive in Bridge-town, we
+perceived a great difference, in the more elevated part of the country.
+We dined at Dr. Hinde’s, some miles from the town, and did not there
+feel the heat unpleasant. Thirteen persons sat down to table, and I
+remarked that not one of the party had occasion to use his handkerchief,
+in a way that might have shocked the delicacy of a Chesterfield.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XXXI.
+
+
+ Barbadoes, March 30.
+
+I fear you will be tired of reading tales of disappointment and
+uncertainty, which, as I before observed, would seem to know no end. On
+the morning of the 28th inst. we saw an ensign hoisted at the fort, and
+heard three guns fired; which constitute the signal of alarm implying a
+strange fleet to be in sight. It was, immediately, concluded that it was
+the Cork convoy, and its arrival was readily explained, by supposing it
+to have put to sea again, quickly after its return to harbour, and to
+have availed itself of the favorable wind which had already brought to
+us so many single vessels of that division. Dr. Cleghorn and myself
+happened to be on our way to the hospital, and on reaching St. Anne’s
+Hill we had a most splendid view of about eighty ships sailing smoothly
+below us, spreading their white canvass along the coast of the island,
+as they proceeded towards the bay. Our expectations now seemed
+confirmed. It must be the Cork fleet: and we felt assured of a speedy
+departure for St. Domingo! But our measure of vexation was not yet
+filled; for it proved to be only a fleet of merchantmen!
+
+It would seem that the very elements had been set in hostile array,
+exclusively, against the expedition, and that it only required the
+sailing of the convoys to provoke the wrath of the winds, and the ocean.
+Amidst all the vexatious delays, that continue to occur, it is
+mortifying to discover that not one of the troop-ships has made the
+passage with this fortunate fleet of traders, which sailed from Spithead
+on the 27th of February, and reached Barbadoes early on the 28th of
+March.
+
+After breakfast we went on shore to make our marketings and to learn the
+additional news brought by the fleet, which had now come to anchor. The
+streets of Bridge-town were crowded, and the place so over-run with
+strangers, that not a fish, nor a joint of meat was to be had: and a
+single chicken was all we could procure.
+
+Barbadoes is the best supplied of all our colonies to windward of
+Jamaica. The island abounds with provisions and stock; but from the late
+multiplied arrivals, and from a numerous fleet being so long detained in
+the bay, the demand has been so great that a degree of scarcity, or, at
+least, that mark of it, an increased and extravagant price, begins to
+prevail.
+
+Single ships of the Cork division still continue to join us; and among
+them we now find the George and Bridget with hospital stores, having our
+comrade Henderson on board. The George and Bridget, as I before remarked
+to you, is a large North country ship, of vast bulk, very unwieldy, and
+manifestly a slow sailer.
+
+Our lost assistant, poor Mac—, who was left behind in consequence of
+going to Portsmouth in search of our cow, is also among the unexpected
+passengers on board this vessel. The narrative of his adventures, with
+and without the cow, has diverted us exceedingly. He is a little fat,
+sturdy man, of short, punch-like figure, between thirty and forty years
+of age, with a vast deal of good humour and willing activity about
+him—bustling, well-intending, and officiously desirous to be useful. He
+is confident, and presumptuous, yet possesses a degree of personal
+timidity bordering upon superstition. Abruptly familiar with those he
+seeks, he grows importunate, and attaches himself even to annoyance;
+being one of those people who have more of freedom than good manners,
+are perfect masters in ease, and as perfectly ignorant in politeness. He
+is of that class which possesses more of willingness, than judgment—more
+of haste, than order; one of those who engage with bold confidence, in
+whatever presents itself, without looking to the event, or observing any
+thing of method in the execution; who are ever ready to plunge into
+difficulties, without a thought how to subdue them.
+
+The same sanguine feelings which lead him into troubles, tend to support
+him through them. Not being of a disposition to brood over his
+distresses, he is seldom the subject of dismay, or the victim of sombre
+reflection. Involved in one dilemma, he commonly escapes from it by
+rushing headlong into a greater, and often blunders on to his object,
+overcoming every impediment by forcing circumstances through all hazards
+to the end proposed; then, forgetful of the new difficulties which he
+has created, piques himself upon the merit of having accomplished his
+design!
+
+It being an essential comfort to have plenty of milk on the passage, we
+had purchased a cow to take on board, but owing to some neglect, on
+shore, our valued animal had not reached the Lord Sheffield at the time
+the signal was made for sailing. We applied to the captain to know how
+we could proceed with the greatest probability of procuring her; who,
+telling us that it was not an object for which he could delay the ship,
+observed that the only chance of having our milk was by sending off some
+person, instantly, to Portsmouth, who would bring the cow, without a
+moment’s loss of time. Mac—, hearing this, immediately volunteered his
+services. A boat, returning to the shore, was accordingly hailed, and
+away hurried Mac— for the cow; not once dreaming of the possibility of
+failure, or that there could be any risk of his being left behind. In
+the same unthinking haste in which he left the ship did he bustle on
+when he reached the town; and from a thoughtless blundering in every
+step of his proceeding, he was defeated in all his attempts to return on
+board. First he neglected to secure a boat at the time he went on
+shore—next he forgot the address of the person from whom the cow was
+purchased—afterwards he lost time in cavilling with the man for not
+sending her off according to his engagement—then he delayed by sitting
+down to take refreshment; and when at last the poor animal was led to
+the water’s edge, it proved that every boat was absent, and Mac— was
+compelled to wait in great anxiety for the return of one from Spithead.
+He now began to discover that he had proceeded rashly, and without
+calculating the means of success; but he unjustly cursed his fortune,
+and abused the quiet, unconscious cow.
+
+Thus it ever is with the improvident,—whether regarding his time, his
+purse, or his pursuits. The errors of _imprudence_ he never fails to
+attribute to _misfortune_, and he unfairly accuses the fates with what
+is only the result of his own folly or neglect. When a lugger arrived it
+was too late to overtake the fleet; but he impulsively jumped into it,
+insisting on making a trial, and after remaining at sea for a
+considerable time, was obliged to return to Portsmouth, both himself and
+the cow having lost their passage.
+
+Now he hastily determined to go to the Isle of Wight, and try from
+thence to get on board the Lord Sheffield; and after failing in this, he
+hurried to Plymouth, idly fancying that he might succeed from thence.
+Here he was alike defeated. He then travelled to Milford Haven and
+embarked for Ireland, and happened to arrive at Cove in time for the
+Cork convoy, with which he found the George and Bridget, and, knowing
+that Dr. Henderson and others of the hospital staff were on board, he
+applied to the captain for a passage, relating his adventures, with and
+without the cow, as his passport.
+
+From the frankness of his manners, and the willingness he expressed to
+put up with all the inconveniences which might present themselves, as
+well as from his companionable familiarity, the master of the vessel
+became interested in his behalf, and soon adopted him as his principal
+associate.
+
+The ship met with an accident at sea, but afterwards made a favorable
+passage, and Mac— is arrived in safety at Barbadoes; where he relates
+with great delight all his perils by sea, and his troubles on shore[6].
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XXXII.
+
+
+ Barbadoes, April 1, 1796.
+
+We are here all joy and delight. Without the humours of an April day,
+the morning has been hailed in cheerfulness, from bringing to us friends
+we have long been anxious to meet.
+
+At an early hour the ensign was flying at the battery, announcing the
+approach of unnumbered strangers.
+
+On this occasion, as on many others, we were both pleased and surprised
+to observe the acuteness of sailors in discovering the nature and extent
+of a distant fleet. Before _we_ could well distinguish a ship from a
+brig, our tars, from the cut of the sails, proclaimed it to be an
+English convoy, but not that of Admiral Cornwallis. From the mode of
+setting the canvass, from the form of the ship, the figure of the masts,
+or some slight circumstance, attaching to different vessels, but totally
+imperceptible to us, they had no hesitation in declaring, while yet very
+remote, that instead of the fleet from Spithead, it was our
+long-wished-for convoy from Cork.
+
+The whole fleet is now at anchor in the bay, and has brought to us a
+large body of troops, destined for St. Domingo, under the command of
+General Whyte. This being the division of the expedition to which we are
+attached, we had twofold pleasure in greeting its arrival.
+
+In our gladness to hail it, we climbed the shrouds up to the main top,
+and there stood to view its entrance into the bay. Such a scene must
+have been highly interesting, even if it had been wholly independent of
+the intimate connexion we had with it: the day was fine; the breeze soft
+and mild; and the surface of the water gently moving. The picture was
+rich and varied; comprehending, under a bird’s-eye view, the town, and
+neighbouring plantations, the bay crowded with shipping, a great extent
+of the fine country around, and the wide ocean, together with the
+numerous vessels of our desired convoy dropping, with full sails, into
+the harbour.
+
+This fleet, which had been so often reported at sea, even so long since
+as before we left England, and which did once sail and return, finally
+took its departure from Cove on the 25th of February: hence it may be
+considered to have made at last a very favorable passage, having been
+precisely five weeks at sea.
+
+We now look forward to a speedy change of place, and I may soon have to
+address you from St. Domingo, where I hope to meet your letters, and
+learn tidings of ye all. It is about a week’s voyage, and is considered
+a very pleasant one, being as fine sailing as is known on any part of
+the ocean; the ship having only to spread wide her canvass and fly
+before _the trades_.
+
+Indolence is considered to be the general effect of excessive heat of
+climate; and if the ingenious Bruno had visited the tropical regions, he
+might here have found many facts in support of his very plausible
+doctrine. The languor of climate is felt by few on their early arrival
+in the West Indies: the first effect of the heat seems to be that of
+stimulating the rigid northern fibre into increased activity; and creole
+inertness follows only as the result of continued residence.
+
+“Precisely thus,” would have exclaimed Dr. Brown, “and so with wine,
+opium, brandy, and all other stimuli. They, at first, only increase the
+excitement, and give new vigour to the frame; but, continued to excess,
+they exhaust the excitability, over-run ever-delighting excitement, and
+plunge the body into indirect debility, inducing a state of body,
+precisely similar to that of creole inactivity; a state from which there
+is no escape, but through the medium of new or still more powerful
+stimuli.” Yet, the renewed vigour—the restored excitement, acquired by a
+return to the _sedative north_, would seem an everlasting obstacle to
+the theory as stated by its great projector: the languor of climate, or
+indirect debility, being removed by a directly debilitating power—the
+abstraction of heat.
+
+But I am straying from our path. Let me, therefore, retrace my steps,
+and tell you the effect of climate upon a cold Hollander of our crew.
+
+I have already made known to you that neither my comrade Dr. Cleghorn,
+nor myself, feel yet any sense of tropical indolence, but that we
+continue our habits of exercise in all our rude European strength. We
+have, for some days past, been closely watching one of our sailors who
+is a Dutchman. He is recently from Holland, and, in manners and
+appearance, a true Batavian. On the passage he was a dull, heavy, slow,
+and plodding Dutchman—frigid, and inanimate as the most icy boor of his
+aquatic nation. His movements were a tolerably accurate representation
+of the crawling sloth; and the unvaried sedateness of his visage no less
+emblematical of his native home.
+
+Having particularly noticed him throughout the voyage, we feel some
+surprise in now witnessing, as it were, a complete revolution of his
+nature and habits. The rays of a tropical sun seem to have given play to
+his muscles, set free all the circulating juices of his frame, and
+thawed the icy coldness of his soul. The change we observe in him is
+indeed greater than you can imagine: roused from the torpor of unheeding
+sameness, by the all-vivifying power of tropical warmth, the frigid
+cloud of indifference is dissipated from his brow; he is grown cheerful
+and gay; wears a smile of mirth upon his countenance, and moves with an
+alertness, beyond all that could have been expected in a Dutchman. He
+now skips merrily about the ship; pulls his oar with glee in the boat;
+and, on all occasions, appears animated and lively; vying in spirits and
+activity with the sprightliest tar of the ship.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XXXIII.
+
+
+ Barbadoes, April.
+
+Perhaps you will feel surprised if I should tell you that we have seen
+an African slave perform a chirurgical operation, with greater dexterity
+than it could have been done by the most skilful surgeon of Europe!
+
+Walking on the beach, we remarked two negroes sitting on the sands,
+occupied with something, which seemed to command minute attention. On
+approaching near to them, we found the one engaged in extracting that
+sadly troublesome insect the Chigoe from the other’s foot. Our curiosity
+being excited, we stopped to witness the operation, and saw it executed
+with great neatness and ability.
+
+The chigoe is a very minute insect, which insinuates itself,
+imperceptibly, under the skin, most commonly of the toes, and there,
+forming a nidus, produces its young. These are enveloped in a small cyst
+or bag, which usually increases to the size of a pea, as the period of
+maturity approaches. When the young are about to escape, a sense of
+tingling, or itching is felt in the part, at first very slight and often
+not sufficient to attract the notice of Europeans; but, if longer
+neglected, it increases to a sense of soreness on pressure, or on
+treading upon that part of the foot. This commonly leads to examination,
+when a dark point is discovered, which directs to a small, and scarcely
+tumid circle, whitish, or very slightly inflamed, of an appearance
+somewhat like what might arise from a pea lodged under the skin. If, at
+this period, the cyst be removed, the disease may be eradicated, and
+nothing further apprehended; but if it be still neglected, the nidus
+ruptures, and the young ones escaping, penetrate into the parts around,
+producing a sore which degenerates into a troublesome ulcer, and this
+being increased by the new cysts of many chigoes, often proceeds to
+incurable disease, and ultimately to the destruction of the toe.
+
+The chigoes prevail most in sandy places: in this island they are very
+numerous. A negro sometimes extracts five or six from his feet, at one
+sitting; and so expert is he at finding them, that, in examining the
+foot of an European, a slave will, frequently, discover two or three
+chigoes, before the individual could perceive the least itching or
+uneasiness from them.
+
+The mode of extracting them is as follows: with a pointed penknife, not
+very sharp, or the blunt end of a large needle, a slight opening is made
+in the skin, at the small black point over the cyst. From this opening
+the skin is forced away, by being torn, or broken down, and pressed
+outwards, on all sides, care being taken not to puncture, or otherwise
+rupture the cyst. The skin being thus separated, the nidus or small bag
+becomes exposed in form of a little round body, and is, afterwards,
+extracted by forcing down the point of the instrument, at one side, and
+turning it out. A hole remains not unlike a pea issue: this the negro
+commonly fills with ashes from the pipe or sagar, mixed with butter,
+tallow from a candle, or any other kind of grease that happens to be at
+hand, and the cure is completed with the operation.
+
+A specimen of indolence in labour has occurred to our observation,
+which, whether it be regarded as the effect of climate, or of slavery, I
+may note to you as an additional example of the feeble exertions used by
+slaves in their unrequited round of toil. A party of negroes being
+employed to remove some hospital stores, from the side of the water to a
+warehouse, Dr. Cleghorn and myself took the opportunity of passing that
+way in our walk, in order to see them at work, and observe their
+industry and mode of labour. We found no less than ten slaves occupied
+in rolling a middle-sized chest, with a black driver holding his whip at
+their backs, and an overseer, of fairer skin, to command them. It was
+perhaps, in all respects, the very worst way in which such a package
+could have been moved! From the size of the chest it was only with
+difficulty each negro could find space for an assisting hand; from its
+shape it was most inconvenient for rolling; and from its contents, most
+improper; being filled with bottles, jars, earthen pots, and the like.
+In England four men would have carried it upon a hand-barrow with great
+ease: but here, the time and labour of twelve men were consumed in
+moving it, at a rate incomparably slower, and at the expense, probably,
+of great part of its contents.
+
+We pointed out to them the injury that might, and the loss of time that
+necessarily must derive from this method of moving it, and endeavoured
+to convince them how much safer, and more expeditious it would be, to
+take it up, and carry it. But, no! that was not their way! “_We no savez
+carry him, we roll him gently, Massa, den we no break ’em bottles
+inside_,” was the reply. In even the most liberal it is always a task to
+oppose habits confirmed by long usage; among slaves it were utterly in
+vain to attempt it! Had we insisted upon the case being carried, it is
+more than probable that it would have quickly fallen to the ground, and
+the whole contents been shattered to atoms; we, therefore, left them to
+pursue their own means.
+
+We have since met with another circumstance nearly similar, which I
+might offer to you as a further example of the indolent manner in which
+slaves execute their task: or I might note it as a specimen of the
+cruelties which men, held in slavery, may, and too frequently do become
+subject to, from passionate, and unfeeling individuals. Walking towards
+the hospital we met a party of negroes rolling a box of stores from the
+boat, in which they had been brought on shore, to the store-room.
+Perceiving the case to be light, and knowing it to contain only vessels
+of tin, a desire to see how they would perform led us to try the
+experiment of making them carry it: nor, in doing this, were we aware of
+exposing any of them to an act of cruelty, or we should have left them,
+as before, to their own way. On attempting to lift the package to their
+shoulders, they set about it precisely in the awkward and ludicrous
+manner we had expected; still as no accident, nor injury of consequence
+could derive from it, we, who were recently from Europe, were quite
+diverted at their fruitless and incompetent efforts; but Captain ——, who
+was with us, and had resided long enough in the West Indies to have
+accustomed himself to the arbitrary treatment of slaves, seeing the
+stupid way in which they attempted this new task, immediately gave one
+of the poor fellows a cruel cut, with a large horse-whip, across the
+face and eyes! We remonstrated with him on this unnecessary and
+unmerited severity; and could not but mark it, in our minds, as an act
+of wanton cruelty; which, if I may judge from the impulse of my own
+feelings, will long stand against him. We desired the poor negroes to
+put down the box, and convey it according to their own method; and, in
+sentiments of indignation, left the Captain to the remorse which ought
+to be his punishment.
+
+You will be pleased to know that intelligence has just reached us of the
+defeat of the brigands at Grenada, in an action with our troops,
+commanded by General Nicoll. Their loss is said to amount to three
+hundred men.
+
+The Portsmouth fleet is still a truant to our expectations. From the
+tidings we had received of it we now think it long delayed; and have
+many fears lest Admiral Cornwallis may have sailed into Admiral
+Christian’s unfortunate path; and, like him, been obliged to trace his
+course back into an English port.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XXXIV.
+
+
+ Barbadoes, April 7.
+
+Having, from time to time, detailed to you, in desultory remark, the
+whole chain of circumstances passing under my eye, perhaps, you will not
+deem it premature, should I now offer you a few general observations
+concerning the island of Barbadoes. After a residence of many weeks it
+is probable that my remarks may possess more of correctness than any I
+might have given you immediately on my arrival. I feel it likely also,
+that you may find them rather more interesting after the irregular notes
+which have preceded them. I purpose therefore taking up my pen, at each
+moment of leisure, until I shall have copied the few memoranda which I
+have collected on the general subject of Barbadoes; and shall send them
+to you, in a full packet, by some early occasion.
+
+From the situation of the West India Islands in the Atlantic ocean,
+extending in form of a semicircle, nearly from the coast of Florida to
+the river Oronoko, it might seem that, at some remote period, they had
+been detached from the great continent of America, either by the gradual
+and progressive power of the ocean, or by some great and sudden
+convulsion of nature. But from their being of very irregular and
+mountainous surface, while the land of the proximate shore is peculiarly
+low and flat, to a distance of many miles from the coast, it is probable
+that the islands and the main land had a different origin. The craggy
+shores, and rugged broken figure of the islands bespeak a sudden
+formation; while the smooth and muddy surface of the opposite coast
+indicates a less disturbed and slower beginning. Probably the latter has
+been produced from the gradual deposit of a feculent ocean—the former
+from volcanic eruptions.
+
+Barbadoes is the most windward of the West India Islands; and is in that
+division of them known by the appellation of Charibbee Islands; a name
+they have obtained from one of the nations of Indians, who formerly
+inhabited them.
+
+It is about twenty-one miles in length, by fourteen in breadth; lying in
+latitude 13° North, longitude 59° West. The English have occupied it
+nearly two centuries, having taken possession of it in the reign of
+James I. At the time of being settled by our countrymen, it was covered
+with wood, and had no marks of having been, before, occupied by man; but
+it now appears under a very different aspect, the destructive axe having
+converted its deep and heavy forests into even characteristic nakedness.
+
+West Indians regard it as of low and level surface: but this can be only
+comparatively speaking, in reference to the neighbouring islands, whose
+bold summits pierce the clouds; for Barbadoes has all the pleasant
+variety afforded by hills and broken land, and, in some parts, is even
+mountainous, though less so than Grenada, St. Vincent, or St. Lucie.
+
+It is considered as an old island, and, from having been long in
+cultivation, is said to be much exhausted, and wearing to decay. Those
+concerned in the culture of more recent, and now more prolific colonies,
+seem to compassionate Barbadoes as the venerable and decrepit parent of
+the race; while its inhabitants pride themselves upon its antiquity,
+and, like the feudal lords of still more ancient states, assume a
+consequence, I might almost say claim hereditary rank and privilege from
+priority of establishment. Some of the creoles of the island commit the
+excess of attaching to it a degree of importance beyond even the
+mother-country. “_What would poor Old England do_,” say they, “_were
+Barbadoes to forsake her?_” This sense of distinction is strongly
+manifested also in the sentiment conveyed by the vulgar expression so
+common in the island—“_neither Charib, nor creole, but true Barbadian_,”
+and which is participated even by the slaves, who proudly arrogate a
+superiority above the negroes of the other islands! Ask one of them if
+he was imported, or if he be a creole, and he immediately replies, “_Me
+neder Chrab, nor creole, Massa! me troo Barbadian born_.”
+
+Perhaps the late decline of this island may be less the effect of
+exhaustion of the soil, than of the extensive emigration, and the
+diversion of commerce consequent on the cultivation of new islands and
+colonies. In the early period of its culture Barbadoes yielded a
+produce, and gave rise to an extent of commerce, not known in any other
+island, and its population increased to a degree, perhaps unprecedented
+in any part of the globe. Within the first fifty years the trade of the
+island had become sufficient to employ four hundred sail of shipping;
+and the number of inhabitants amounted to no less than one hundred and
+fifty thousand, being upwards of five hundred to every square mile.
+
+To enable the land to continue the bountiful produce it now afforded,
+required much labour, and a great and expensive supply of manure;
+therefore as new colonies were settled, and new land brought into
+cultivation, which was capable of yielding equal returns with less
+labour, and less of artificial supply, it became an object to
+individuals to emigrate from the neighbouring island of Barbadoes, and
+engage in the culture of the more recent, and less exhausted
+settlements; and, thus, with the population, the commerce, which before
+had been confined to the parent island, was necessarily diverted into
+new and various channels.
+
+At this day the Dutch colonies of Guiana, and the captured island of
+Martinique are a continual drain upon the population of Barbadoes. But
+notwithstanding its decline from what it once was, it is still the most
+populous, and one of the most important of our West India possessions.
+From situation, and from its fine bay for shipping, even independent of
+its produce, it must ever be valuable to us; and may be considered as
+the key of the West Indies.
+
+If in the richness of its crops Barbadoes now yields to other
+settlements; if its population and commerce have decreased; if its thick
+woods have fallen before the ruthless axe; and if its mountains are less
+aspiring than the towering summits of some of the adjacent islands;
+still its trade and produce continue to be important; its population
+great; and the picturesque scenery of its surface, perhaps, unrivalled.
+Nor are these its only advantages; for, in consequence of being more
+cleared, and more generally cultivated, than the other islands, its
+temperature is more equable, and its air more salubrious. Damp woods do
+not interrupt, nor stagnant morasses empoison the breeze. Every part is
+exposed to the influence of the trade-wind; by the coolness and
+salubrity of which, this is rendered the most healthful of the islands;
+insomuch that it is common, in sickness, to make a voyage from the
+neighbouring colonies to Barbadoes, as the Montpelier of the West
+Indies. Being situated to windward of the other settlements it receives
+the steady breeze, brought to it, in all its purity, from a wide extent
+of ocean, unimpregnated by the septical exhalations of stagnant waters,
+or marshy soils. Its temperature has been far less inconvenient than we
+expected: we have felt but little oppression from heat; and have
+continued our habits of exercise without interruption. In the harbour,
+and placed in the shade, the thermometer has seldom been higher than 84,
+and at no time has exceeded 86 degrees.
+
+Yet blessed as the island is in its exemption from excessive heat, from
+noxious miasmata, and from great and general sickness, it has its
+peculiar ills; being visited with an endemial affliction, so much its
+own as to have obtained the appellation of _the Barbadoes disease_. It
+appears in form of the elephantiasis, or what is here termed the
+“glandular disease,” and is a most unsightly and distressful malady.
+
+Bridge-town is the capital of the island, and is situated on the S. W.
+bank of Carlisle Bay, which is one of the finest harbours, for shipping,
+in the West Indies; but is not considered to be secure during the
+hurricane season. It derives its name from the circumstance of a royal
+grant of the island having formerly been made to the Earl of Carlisle.
+The other towns are Speights-town, Austin-town, and Hole-town, all of
+which are much inferior to Bridge-town.
+
+Both the scenery and the population of the island are more indebted to
+the number and variety of mansions, cottages, and huts, dispersed over
+its surface, than to its towns; which, as is too commonly the case in
+all countries, are built with less regard to general appearance, and the
+health of the inhabitants, than to the convenience of trade, and the
+profit of individuals.
+
+On all quarters of the island are seen windmills, storehouses, and other
+buildings for sugar, coffee, and cotton; houses of planters, the smaller
+dwellings of cottagers, and the huts of negroes; all of which improve
+the scenery, while they convey the idea of extensive population, and
+delight the mind with images of rural enjoyment, and of generally
+diffused comfort and tranquillity. The various buildings, together with
+the protecting shades about them—the luxuriant vegetation—the constant
+verdure of the fields—the evergreen foliage of the trees—the broken
+irregular hills, lofty mountains, and cultivated plains—all surrounded
+with extensive views of shipping, and the open sea, create an effect
+more diversified and interesting than is often to be met with, and
+contribute to render Barbadoes a most pleasant and picturesque island.
+
+I have before mentioned to you the general appearance of its soil: near
+Bridge-town it is of rich black earth, mostly spread on a base of
+calcareous rock, formed of madripores, and other marine concretions: in
+some districts it is of a red earth, of greater depth, but less rich: in
+others the soil is of a light whitish earth, broken into a grey-looking
+mould, or hardened into lumps resembling chalk; but actually consisting
+of indurated argille, bleached by exposure to the weather.
+
+From this variety in the land, together with that which attaches to
+situation, as being flat, or mountainous, protected, or exposed, it will
+necessarily happen, that the produce will differ in different parts of
+the island: and as the whole has been long under cultivation, it is
+manifest that if a due supply of manure cannot be procured, a degree of
+exhaustion, bearing a certain ratio to the deficiency, must result.
+
+It is established, from the mode of agriculture adopted in some counties
+of England, that, by an adequate supply of manure, estates may be kept
+in a constant round of cultivation, yielding as prolific crops as upon
+their earliest tillage; and this is found to be no less certain, than
+that if the land be subjected to continued culture, without such supply,
+it will be so exhausted, in the course of a few years, as not to give
+sufficient produce to compensate the labour and expense.
+
+The same facts equally apply to Barbadoes, where, if the artificial
+supply be not commensurate with the harvest removed from the land, a
+gradual diminution of the crops will succeed; or, in order to have these
+in their usual abundance, the acres in cultivation must be reduced to
+such a number as the island shall be capable of furnishing with an
+adequate quantity of manure; and we accordingly find that herds of small
+steers are kept upon the plantations, for the purpose of supplying this
+indispensable addition to the soil. These are employed instead of horses
+in the heavy labour of the estate, and we often see from twelve to
+twenty-four of them yoked in a waggon, drawing a single hogshead of
+sugar, or some other load, such as in London would be conveyed with
+facility by one horse in a cart.
+
+At night the cattle are penned upon a bed of trash, collected from the
+refuse of the canes, and other waste materials of the estate; by
+treading upon which, and mixing it with their own dung, they trample the
+whole into an useful compost for the fields.
+
+It necessarily follows from such numbers of cattle being required, for
+the purpose of manuring the land, that a greater supply of beef and veal
+is raised for the markets, and that fresh provisions are more plentiful
+than in most of the other colonies. Of the custom of buying the veal in
+live quarters for the pot I have already spoken; and I may now remark
+that the beef is commonly killed so very young as to form neither beef
+nor veal, but something of appearance and flavour between the two.
+
+The seasons here are not divided into winter and summer, but into wet
+and dry: yet are they, by no means, what many, from these terms, would
+believe, who might imagine that half the year is drowned with incessant
+rain, and the other half parched with constant drought. Such a
+construction of the terms _wet_ season, and _dry_ season, though not
+unfrequent, is far from correct, and leads to a very inaccurate idea of
+the climate; for, notwithstanding it has been the dry season, during the
+whole time we have been at Barbadoes, we have scarcely had two
+successive days without refreshing rain; although the showers are not so
+heavy at this period as at that of their greater frequency, termed the
+wet season, when the torrents which fall might convey the idea of a
+sudden rupture of the clouds, letting forth their waters _in streams_ to
+the earth.
+
+The quick evaporation which succeeds to rain in this climate creates a
+most agreeable and refreshing coolness. The extreme ardor of the sun’s
+rays is also counteracted by the ever-grateful breeze, which sets in
+from the sea about eight or nine o’clock in the morning, and continues
+throughout the day, ceasing only as the sun forsakes us at evening; when
+we are again defended from oppressive languor by a breeze springing up
+from the land. This sets in as that from the sea subsides, and
+diverging, as it were from a central point, is felt on all quarters of
+the island.
+
+The day is nearly of equal length throughout the whole circle of the
+year. We have none of the short dark days of an English winter, nor of
+the still shorter light nights of a Scottish summer. Nights of one or
+two hours, and days of six or seven, are here equally unknown. It is
+light about six o’clock in the morning, and dark about seven at night.
+Evening is scarcely observed. The sun traversing his vertical course
+sinks at once from the horizon, and, refusing his oblique beams to
+protract or soften the decline of day, robs us of the twilight hour, and
+suddenly throws around all the obscurity of night.
+
+This uniformity of the diurnal round scarcely exceeds that of the
+general temperature of the climate, which brings us one perpetual
+summer. The fields and the trees are always green. Nature ever smiles.
+Uninterrupted by the torpor of winter, she is neither chilled with
+frost, nor buried in snow. But, for these advantages we forego the
+sprightly delight, and genial comfort of a summer’s evening, the
+all-animating pleasures of a returning spring, and the soft joys of the
+twilight hours. If I had time for such discussions, I might enter into a
+long digression upon the comparative excellence of the climate we have
+left, and that we now inhabit: yet should I yield the palm to my native
+island; for of all the charms of climate in other countries, however
+great or durable, I know none that can stand in competition with the
+balmy softness of England’s spring.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ April 8.
+
+The uniform returns of day and night in this climate induce a regularity
+of habit in the hours of rising, and going to rest. It is common to
+leave the pillow at six in the morning, and few persons remain out of
+bed after eleven at night. The coolest and most pleasant part of the day
+is from six to about half past seven o’clock in the morning: about eight
+a degree of closeness is often experienced, arising from the decline of
+the land-breeze, before that from the sea has become sufficiently strong
+to diffuse its influence. A similar period, likewise, occurs at evening,
+between the abatement of the sea breeze and the setting in of the breeze
+from the land. Some days the closeness of these hours is so slight, as
+to be scarcely perceptible, but commonly they are by far the most
+oppressive of the twenty-four.
+
+Respecting the mode of living it may be remarked that in all countries
+said to be civilized, and among all people calling themselves refined,
+too much of time and attention is devoted to the business of eating and
+drinking. Perhaps the majority of diseases in social life may be traced
+to this source. Were it possible to convey, in a single sentence, the
+frightful train of ills, the melancholy interruptions of health, and the
+immense consumption of time, thus produced, men would be shocked to read
+it! They would be terrified to behold the magnitude of an abuse, to
+which, unheeding, they had so long been devoted. This remark applies but
+too correctly to the island from whence I am addressing you, and where,
+from the state of indolence induced by tropical heat, the ingesta taken
+to excess may be expected in a peculiar degree to oppress the human
+frame.
+
+The people of Barbadoes are much addicted to the pleasures of the table.
+The breakfast usually consists of tea and coffee, or chocolate, with
+eggs, ham, tongue, or other cold meat. Bread is seldom used, but
+substitutes are found in roasted yams or eddoes, both of which a good
+deal resemble roasted potatoes. They are taken hot, and eaten with
+butter, which is sometimes made in the country, but more frequently
+barrelled and brought from Ireland; that prepared in the island being of
+cream-like softness, and not always of good flavour. In the course of
+the forenoon are used fruits, or sandwiches, with free libations of
+punch and sangaree: immediately preceding dinner, which is commonly at
+an early hour, are taken punch or mandram. The dinner, for the most
+part, is profuse, and many hours are passed at table in full and busy
+feasting.
+
+After a more than plentiful consumption of food, a free indulgence in
+fruit, and a bounteous supply of wine and other good liquors, the
+appetite and thirst are further provoked by a dish of sprats, or other
+broiled fish, and a large bowl of milk-punch. Tea and coffee are next
+served; and lastly comes the supper, which forms no trifling meal. After
+this the bottle, the glass, and the punch-bowl experience no rest, until
+bed-time.
+
+From the nature of the climate we expected to have found the inhabitants
+men of meager person, half dissolved in perspiration, and exhausted
+almost to shadows: nor, indeed, are such figures rare, but they are to
+be found, mostly, among the clerks, the book-keepers, and those orders
+of white people below the managers who are employed in active and busy
+occupation, and have but little time to devote to indolence and the
+luxuries of the table.
+
+We observe that condiments are used very generally, and with great
+freedom. Acting as stimulants they appear to have the effect of causing
+the relaxed and enfeebled stomach to digest more than it would,
+otherwise, require—more, indeed, than it would, otherwise, take. The
+various species of red pepper, known in England under the common term
+_Cayenne_, are employed in quantities that would seem incredible to
+people of colder climates.
+
+A most heterogeneous mixture of food is often consumed; and with this
+compound of solids, are used wine, punch, porter, cyder, noyeau, and
+other good liquors in free libation; yet are there specimens of health
+and vigour, amidst all these indulgences, which might seem to invalidate
+the doctrines of the advocates of abstemiousness.
+
+In the order of the feast plenty more prevails than elegance. The loaded
+board groans, nay almost sinks beneath the weight of hospitality. That
+delicacy of arrangement now studied in England, under the term economy
+of the table, is here deemed a less perfection than a substantial
+plenty. Liberality is more esteemed than neatness in the supply; and
+solids are, sometimes, heaped upon the table in a crowded abundance that
+might make a London fine lady faint.
+
+The repast not unfrequently consists of different kinds of fish—a
+variety of soups—a young kid—a whole lamb, or half a sheep—several
+dishes of beef, or mutton—a turkey—a large ham—Guinea fowls—and a pigeon
+pie; with various kinds of puddings; a profusion of vegetables; and
+multitudes of sweets. I was lately one of a small party, where,
+precisely, this dinner was served, and where the half of a sheep,
+kicking its legs almost in the face of the master of the house, adorned
+the bottom of the table—forming the most unseemly dish I ever beheld.
+
+The generous board is often supplied wholly from the produce of the
+estate, and on the occasion of giving an entertainment it is not unusual
+to kill an ox, a sheep, or, literally, the fatted calf: hence it
+sometimes occurs that several dishes of the same kind of food, under
+different forms, make up the principal part of the dinner.
+
+The liquors most in use are Madeira and claret wines, punch, sangaree,
+porter, and cyder. Punch and sangaree are commonly used as the
+_diluents_ of the morning. The latter forms a most delightful drink. A
+glass of it, taken when parching with thirst, from heat and fatigue, may
+be ranked among the highest gratifications of our nature! It consists of
+half Madeira wine and half water, acidulated with the fragrant lime,
+sweetened with sugar, and flavoured with nutmeg. A stronger sort of it
+is sometimes made under the superlative name of _sangrorum_. This
+differs from the former, only in containing a greater proportion of
+wine.
+
+The too-prevalent English custom of _sending away_ the ladies, or,
+according to the politer term, of the ladies _retiring_ after dinner,
+for the gentlemen _to enjoy_ their bottle, prevails also at Barbadoes;
+and, we have thought, even to a greater extreme than in England. They
+leave us very soon _after_ dinner, and, often, we see no more of them
+during the evening. Frequently they do not join us _before_ dinner; but
+we find them all assembled, at the head of the table, when we enter the
+dining-room. The party is sometimes so badly arranged, that we have
+scarcely more of the society of the ladies, and the people of the
+island, than if we had remained on board ship. Instead of the different
+persons being, pleasantly, intermixed, it is too common to see the
+ladies grouped together in a body at the upper end of the table; the
+officers and strangers, just arrived from Europe, placed at one side;
+and the gentlemen of the island, who are familiar acquaintances, at the
+other. The attendants at the dinner-table are very numerous. In addition
+to those of the family, almost every gentleman has his own slave; and,
+thus, to frequently happens that the room is crowded with sable
+domestics, whose surfaces emit an odour not less savoury than the
+richest dishes of the board.
+
+In its supply of fresh provisions, particularly what is here termed
+_stock_, such as fowls and the like, Barbadoes exhibits a degree of
+plenty unknown in the neighbouring islands. This seems to be the happy
+effect of allowing the slaves to raise these things for sale, together
+with there being many small settlers, distributed about the country, who
+find their support chiefly in breeding stock for the markets. Poultry
+has been our principal food. Turkies, Guinea fowls, and chickens, we
+have had in great abundance. When we arrived, in the month of February,
+they were sold in the public market at little more than a bit (about
+5½_d._) per pound, but from the increased demand, consequent upon the
+presence of so many troops, and such throngs of shipping, the price is
+now raised to nearly two bits. The Muscovy ducks are also bred in
+numbers upon the island, and are so large as to appear like geese, when
+dressed for the table. Next to small stock they have veal and pork in
+the greatest plenty. In Bridge-town they have also a fish-market, which
+at times is well supplied, but not so regularly, as, from the insular
+situation of the country, might be expected.
+
+You will form some idea of the immense flocks of poultry raised on this
+little island, when I tell you that not only the ships of war, and the
+transports, but most of the West India trading vessels, recruit their
+provisions at Barbadoes; and that in addition to this constant and
+extensive drain it furnishes occasional supplies to the other colonies.
+Since we have been in Carlisle Bay, we have seen, at various times,
+great quantities of stock shipped for Martinique.
+
+In point of clothing the people of Barbadoes deviate less from the
+habits of England than the difference of climate would seem to warrant.
+Their dress resembles that worn in our more northern latitude, being
+commonly a cloth coat, white cotton waistcoat, and nankeen pantaloons.
+In some instances people of very active employment, or those who are
+much exposed in the fields, have the whole suit made of nankeen. Their
+night clothing seems more appropriate to the greater heat of the climate
+than the apparel of the day. It is common to sleep on a hard mattress in
+a long cotton shirt, without any other covering, except in the coolest
+season, when they make the slight addition of a cotton sheet.
+
+One of the most prominent characteristics of the island is the tedious
+languor in which the people of Barbadoes pronounce their words. To
+convey to you, by the pen, any idea of their manner of speaking is
+utterly impossible: to be comprehended, it must be heard. The languid
+syllables are drawled out as if it were a great fatigue to utter them;
+and the tortured ear of an European grows impatient in waiting for the
+end of a word, or a sentence. “_How you do to da—ay_,” spoken by a
+Barbadian creole, consumes nearly as much time as might suffice for all
+the compliments of the morning! nor is this wearisome pronunciation
+confined to the people of colour; it occurs, likewise, among the whites,
+particularly those who have not visited Europe, nor resided for some
+time away from the island. In the same lengthened accent do the lower
+orders of Barbadians vent their unrestrained rage, in vollies of
+uncommonly dreadful oaths, which, in their horrible combinations and
+epithets, form imprecations peculiarly impious.
+
+In manner, also, and in movement, as well as in speech, a degree of
+indolence and inaction prevails, beyond what might be expected, merely
+from heat of climate, and which is extremely annoying to Europeans.
+
+The state of the negroes in Barbadoes varies, as the state of slaves
+must ever do, according to the disposition and circumstances of the
+master. Under such humane and benevolent characters as Mr. Waith, and
+others whom we have visited, their situation might be envied by the poor
+of European nations! But under severe and cruel masters it becomes a
+state of ceaseless vexation and misery.
+
+On the very important question of slavery in general I do not feel that
+my experience, hitherto, in the West Indies, enables me to judge with
+accuracy. But I will take care to note for you such facts as shall occur
+to my observation, and I may some day, perhaps, give you them in a
+separate letter.
+
+Very much to the discredit of Barbadoes, numbers of old, diseased, or
+decrepit negroes, objects of compassion, and of horror, are seen lying
+at the corners, or begging about the streets. This, like the toleration
+of the swarms of mendicants in England, is a nuisance for which there is
+no excuse. If these poor unfortunate negroes be free, they should be
+relieved by a general tax upon the island: if slaves, the law should
+compel every master to provide for his own. Should the laws of humanity
+be insufficient, and those of justice inadequate, a law of coercion
+should constrain the unfeeling owner to protect and cherish the being,
+whose youth and vigour have been expended for his benefit; and who,
+having worn out his days, in the heavy toils of bondage, is grown aged
+and infirm!
+
+What can be so unworthy! what so disgraceful, as for a master to
+neglect, in old age, the slave from whom he has exacted all the labour
+of youth, and all the vigour of manhood? Perhaps nothing portrays in
+more melancholy demonstration, the possible depravity of the human
+heart! No longer able to exert himself to his owner’s profit, the aged
+slave, enfeebled by years, and exhausted by toil, is left to beg his
+_yam_ from door to door! Abandoned by his cruel master, he becomes a
+pensioner upon promiscuous charity, or is allowed to fall a prey to
+disease, and to want!
+
+Without some compulsory law the slaves of the avaricious and of the
+lower orders, who are, themselves, scarcely removed from indigence, must
+ever be subject to this hard lot of neglect and cruelty.
+
+The first specimen of West India slaves which met our observation was
+singularly calculated to impress us with sentiments of compassion and
+disgust. It occurred at the very moment, too, when the impression would
+be most powerful, and consequently it will remain indelible. Immediately
+on our coming to anchor in Carlisle Bay, a woman appeared alongside the
+ship in a small boat, with some bad fruit, tobacco, salt fish, and other
+articles of traffic. She was rowed by two negroes, who were her slaves.
+Two such objects of human form and human misery had never before met our
+eyes! They were feeble, meager, and dejected—half-starved, half-naked,
+and, in figure, too accurately resembling hungry and distempered
+greyhounds! They crouched upon their heels and haunches in the boat;
+their bones almost pierced their filthy and eruptive skins; their wasted
+frames trembled with debility; and, while their hollow eyes and famished
+countenances rendered them ghastly images of horror, their whole
+appearance shocked humanity, and appalled the sight! Are these, we
+exclaimed, what are called slaves? Is this the state to which human
+beings are reduced in bondage? Afflicting and cruel indeed! Well may
+slavery be deemed a curse! Can it be possible that these spectres once
+were men? Are such the objects we are to see? Are these the wretched and
+deplorable beings who are to appear every day, and every hour before our
+eyes? Forbid it humanity! forbid it Heaven! Such was the apostrophe of
+the moment, and I feel a sincere gratification in being able to inform
+you that the melancholy subjects of this first impression were not
+correct examples of the general mass of slaves. Still it is grievous
+that any such should be seen: but we hope to find them only rare
+instances, for we learn that the large gangs of negroes kept by the
+great merchants, and the planters, are generally treated with kindness
+and humanity, and appear contented and in comfort.
+
+It is easy to distinguish the slaves of the opulent and respectable
+inhabitants from those of the poor and needy people of the town. The
+latter, being in poverty themselves, can only give to their negroes a
+scanty allowance of food, while their indigence induces them to exact an
+over-proportion of labour. Hence the slaves of this class of people
+appear too often with sharp bones and hungry sallow countenances, having
+eruptions about the body, and their skins of an unhealthy hue. Their
+general appearance indeed is dirty and unwholesome, and strikingly marks
+their neglected state. Want and wretchedness are deeply stamped in every
+line of their persons; and they may not inaptly be said to resemble the
+worn-out horse or the starved and jaded ass, too often seen trembling
+under a heavy burden, or reeling in an old tattered cart upon the roads
+of England.
+
+It is not the practice to load the slaves with a superfluity of
+clothing: a shirt, and a pair of breeches, or only the latter, for the
+men; and a single petticoat for the women, constitute the whole apparel.
+Bedding and bedclothes find no place in their list of necessaries: they
+usually sleep on a hard plank, in the clothing of the day. Repose is
+both ensured and sweetened to them by labour; and the head needs no
+pillow but the arm. Some who, by means of industry and economy, are more
+advanced in their little comforts, procure a kind of matting, a
+paillasse of plantain-leaves, or some other species of bedding, to
+defend them from the bare plank; but this is an indulgence
+self-attained, not a necessary provided by the master. The architecture
+of their huts is as rude as it is simple. A roof of plantain-leaves,
+with a few rough boards, nailed to the coarse pillars which support it,
+form the whole building. The leeward side is commonly left in part open,
+and the roof projects to some distance over the door-way, forming a
+defence against both the sun and the rain.
+
+Notwithstanding the great heat experienced by Europeans, the negroes
+feel the evenings chilly, and we frequently see them crowding round the
+bit of fire which they make for cooking their supper. This is commonly
+in the open air near to the door of the hut; but they sometimes place it
+upon the middle of the dirt floor withinside the building; where they
+seem to have great enjoyment in squatting round it, amidst the thick
+cloud of smoke, to whiff additional fumes from the short pipe or sagar,
+and to join in loud and merry song.
+
+Smoking is an universal custom among them. In order to be at all moments
+provided for this enjoyment, they carry in their breeches pocket a short
+pipe, about an inch in length from the bowl; or instead of this a leaf
+of tobacco rolled into a sagar. Very often the pipe is so short, or the
+sagar so closely smoked away, as to endanger burning the nose, or even
+the lips. I have frequently seen them smoking with the pipe so short as
+to hold it in the mouth by pressing with the lips upon the lower part of
+the bowl. They often kindle their pipes, by putting bowl to bowl and
+nose to nose, and smoking into each other’s eyes, until the tobacco has
+taken fire.
+
+The food of the negroes is issued to them weekly, under the inspection
+of the manager. It is very simple and but little varied; breakfast,
+dinner, and supper being similar to each other, and the same throughout
+the year. It consists mostly of Guinea corn, with a small bit of salt
+meat, or salt fish. Formerly a bunch of plantains was given to each
+slave as the weekly allowance: but the plantain-walks being mostly worn
+out, this is become an expensive provision. Rice, maize, yams, eddoes,
+and sweet potatoes form an occasional change, but the Guinea corn is,
+commonly, issued as the weekly supply; and in order to obtain some
+variety of food, they barter this in exchange for other provisions, or
+sell it for money, and with that buy salt meat or vegetables. We see
+them occasionally offering the Guinea corn for sale; and on being asked
+why they sell it, they thus express themselves: “Me no like for have him
+Guinea corn always! Massa gib me Guinea corn too much. Guinea corn
+to-day! Guinea corn to-morrow! Guinea corn eb’ry day! Me no like him
+Guinea corn—him Guinea corn no good for gnhyaam.”
+
+The weekly supply being issued to them on the Sunday, it becomes their
+own care how to use it so as to have a sufficiency of food until the
+following Sabbath. Those who are industrious have little additions of
+their own, either from vegetables grown on the spot of ground allotted
+to them, or purchased with the money obtained for the pig, the goat, or
+other stock raised about their huts in the negro-yard.
+
+A mess of pottage, or very hot soup, called pepper-pot, is one of their
+favorite dishes, which is also much esteemed by the inhabitants, and by
+strangers. It is prepared by stewing various kinds of vegetables with a
+bit of salt meat, or salt fish, and seasoning it very highly with the
+pods of the red pepper. The vegetable, called squashes, is much used in
+these pepper-pots. Bread is unknown among the slaves of the West Indies:
+nor, indeed, is it in common use among their masters, but they find very
+excellent substitutes in the yam, the cassada, and the eddoe.
+
+The usual round of labour of the slaves is from sunrise to sunset,
+having intervals of rest allowed them, at the times of breakfast, and
+dinner.
+
+The negroes are generally sad thieves; they appear to know no sense of
+honesty. Ignorant of all moral principle, they steal without thinking it
+wrong, and without any apprehension, except that of being detected. The
+planters are obliged to employ one or two of the most trusty of them in
+the capacity of watchmen to guard, by close and constant attention, the
+orchards, plantain-walks, provision-stores, and the like, from the
+depredations of their own and their neighbours’ slaves. Although they
+have no remorse in stealing whensoever or wheresoever opportunity
+offers, still they are peculiarly prone to robbing their masters; and
+this they do not even consider a theft, as is too evident by an
+expression very common among them, viz. “_Me no tief him: me take him
+from Massa_.”
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ April 9.
+
+In speaking to you of the exemption of Barbadoes from great and
+destructive sickness, I remarked that, although it escaped some general
+ills, it was visited with a malady peculiarly its own. As this forms a
+characteristic feature of the country, and cannot but attract the
+notice, and excite the curiosity of strangers, you would not excuse me
+if I were to neglect offering you a few words upon the subject.
+
+The disease is the _elephantiasis_; called by some the “_glandular
+disease_,” but, by the many, designated simply the “_Barbadoes
+disease_.” It commonly appears in the form of an enormous enlargement of
+one or both legs; but affects occasionally other parts, particularly the
+scrotum, which becomes increased to a surprising bulk. When once
+established, it is extremely difficult to remove, and for the most part
+proves to be incurable. It disturbs the general health less than might
+be expected, and frequently exists for many years, or, even during the
+remainder of a long life, without seeming materially to impair the
+constitution. It is mostly seen among the negroes, but it occurs also
+among the creole whites, and even suffers not the Europeans to escape.
+Although so frequent in Barbadoes, as to be held in a great degree
+peculiar or endemial, it is not wholly confined to this country: some
+instances of it being found in the neighbouring islands.
+
+It would seem not to have been so prevalent, as it now is, from any very
+distant period of time; for about the year 1760 died at Barbadoes a man
+named Francis Briggs, more commonly known by the fictitious appellation
+of Christopher Columbus, who, from the uncommon and monstrous appearance
+of his legs, had been represented as the bugbear or object of terror for
+the purpose of frightening children.
+
+Male and female, young, middle-aged, and old, black, yellow, and white,
+are now all subject to its attack; and, in walking along the streets,
+the eye is distressed, at almost every corner, with the appearance of
+this hideous deformity.
+
+The disease usually begins with an affection of the inguinal glands,
+from whence a red streak, or line of inflammation extends down the limb,
+in the direction of the lymphatic vessels; the part becoming tumefied,
+and taking on a shining and œdematous appearance. The swelling gradually
+occupies the whole of the leg, increasing until, in many instances, the
+limb is more than double its ordinary size. The skin assumes a morbid
+change, grows rough and scaly, or is covered with irregular wart-like
+risings. In some cases deep belts or indentations appear in various
+parts of the tumor, as if formed by the pressure of ligatures: in others
+the swelling bulges out in a number of irregular protrusions: sometimes,
+from extreme distention, the skin breaks into fissures, and a watery
+fluid oozes out, which, on exposure to the air, grows gelatinous upon
+the surface. The foot frequently partakes of the disease: but in many
+cases the immense tumor of the leg terminates abruptly at the ancle,
+hanging over the foot in knotty, and scaly excrescences. The deformity
+is thus diversified; the enormous bulk of leg appearing under a variety
+of unseemly and disgusting shapes. As the enlargement increases, the
+whole extremity becomes hard and squamous; and the distended skin, which
+was at first œdematous, grows thick and corneous, and entirely resists
+the pressure of the finger.
+
+It has been found on dissection that, from the effused lymph which
+originally caused the tumor being coagulated and hardened, the substance
+of the enlarged limb has assumed an appearance not unlike brawn; the
+morbid skin, and the cellular membrane under it, being thickened into a
+tough, horny, and almost cartilaginous consistence.
+
+From this unsightly malady being mostly accompanied with fever of an
+intermittent type, we often hear it termed “the fever and ague.” Indeed
+from the periodical returns of the paroxysms, and from the tumefaction
+succeeding to them, the disease has been very generally considered only
+as an effect resulting from intermittent fever. The practice, said to be
+successful in its removal, seems also to be founded upon this view of
+it. Regard being had to the fever as the original affection, the
+elephantiasis is viewed only as a sequel, and the curative means are
+directed solely to the extinction of the febrile symptoms: which being
+effected, by antimony and Peruvian bark, the patient is sent for a time
+to some other island, by way of change of climate, in order to prevent a
+relapse. No particular attention is paid to the tumor, which, on the
+fever being removed, is expected gradually to diminish. But sometimes,
+instead of receding, it remains stationary, or is increased; or if it
+subside, is renewed on any future invasion of the fever.
+
+Often a return to Barbadoes brings a return of the intermittent, and a
+consequent addition to the enlargement of the already thickened
+extremity; and from the attacks of the disease recurring in frequent
+repetition, there remains no way of preventing it from being established
+into an incurable deformity, but by seeking the remedy of a more
+temperate climate. Frequently the disorder seems to be entirely subdued
+by a few years residence in England, yet again takes place on the
+patient returning to Barbadoes.
+
+Some regard the disease in a directly opposite point of view,
+considering the glandular tumor, with its attendant inflammation of the
+lymphatics, as the primary affection, and the fever merely as
+symptomatic: but it is not consistent with my present purpose, to enter
+into the discussion of this question.
+
+Different opinions have been held respecting the origin of this singular
+affection. Being most frequent, or first observed among the negroes,
+many have believed it to be imported with them from the shores of
+Africa: but this opinion is divested of probability, by the
+extraordinary prevalence of the disease at Barbadoes. Were it brought by
+the slaves from Africa, it would be equally common in the other
+settlements; and, not being infectious, would not be seen among the
+white creoles, or the Europeans. It is undoubtedly the indigenous
+offspring of the island, and perhaps is connected with a peculiarly arid
+state of the atmosphere; for in the colonies shadowed with thick forests
+and vegetation, it is still unknown, and has only grown common at
+Barbadoes, in proportion as its woods have been removed, and the surface
+of the land left unsheltered.
+
+Except on its early attack, or at the periods of acute relapse, the
+disease is attended with little or no pain, and the enlargement
+sometimes proceeds so gradually, that the person himself is almost
+insensible of it. He walks about as usual, and appears to suffer but
+little inconvenience, either from the additional bulk, or the great
+increase of weight. Hence it is often less afflicting to the individual,
+than offensive to others. It is extremely repugnant to the sight; and as
+the negroes walk in the streets with these diseased limbs exposed to
+every eye, Europeans, but recently arrived, are exceedingly annoyed by
+their filthy and monstrous appearance.
+
+Perhaps nature has not formed, nor can the human mind conceive a being
+at once so disgusting, and so pitiable, as an old half-famished negro
+woman, of withered frame, hobbling about with her loose and naked skin
+hanging shrivelled in deep-furrowed wrinkles; and dragging after her one
+or both legs grown into an immense bulk of hideous disease—her feet only
+toes, protruding from this huge mass of distempered leg! Yet such are
+the objects too often seen upon the streets of Bridge-town!
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ April 10.
+
+As planter here supersedes the title of farmer, so does plantation that
+of farm. The land is cultivated in a number of divisions, which in
+Europe, might receive the common designation of farms, but in Barbadoes,
+they are termed plantations, or estates. Of these the distinguishing
+appellation is not derived from the name of the existing possessor; but
+from some specific title long since assigned to them, or from the name
+of the original occupant, or of the family to whom they have for many
+years belonged. Thus a person, going to visit Mr. Hollingsworth or Mr.
+Waith, would not say he was going to Mr. Waith’s, or Mr.
+Hollingsworth’s, but to “Colleton’s,” or to “Spendlove;” these being the
+names by which the estates have long been known.
+
+Besides the great number of hospitable mansions found on the large
+plantations, in the different parts of the country; many humble
+dwellings attract the notice of the traveller, and improve the general
+scenery of the island. They are the cottages of a poorer order of white
+people,—obscure individuals, remote from the great class of merchants
+and planters, and who obtain a scanty livelihood by cultivating a small
+patch of earth, and breeding up poultry, or what they term _stock_ for
+the markets. They are descended from European settlers, but from
+misfortune, or misconduct, in some of the race, are reduced to a state
+not much superior to the condition of free negroes. This numerous class
+of inhabitants, between the great planters and the people of colour,
+forms a striking feature, distinguishing Barbadoes from the more
+recently settled colonies. They have no precise knowledge when their
+ancestors first arrived: through several generations they have been
+born, and have lived on the island; and, regarding it as their native
+and only abode, they do not, like their more wealthy neighbours, look to
+England as another, and a better home.
+
+Curiosity has led us to visit several of these families.
+
+In the part of the island near the tar-pits, we called at a small hut,
+or cabin, where we met with a large family of Barbadian cottagers; and,
+with all the inquisitiveness of strangers, we addressed them in a
+multitude of interrogatories, to which their replies were highly
+gratifying. They were living amidst the mountains, apparently shut from
+the world, and but seldom exposed to the intrusion of visitors. The dame
+of the house was nearly seventy years of age. We found her occupied in
+playful attentions with two of her grandchildren—two, of seven, of the
+offspring of her daughter. Making inquiries respecting the old woman’s
+history we learned that she could trace back her family in regular
+lineal descent, as far as her great-grandfather, the successors of whom
+have never removed from Barbadoes; so that the children we here saw,
+were, to a certainty, as distant as the sixth generation, and probably
+much more remote, in direct descent, from parents who had always lived
+in the torrid zone. One of them was about six, the other eight years
+old. In fairness of skin, in feature, and in figure, they might have
+been mistaken for children born in England, or any other temperate
+climate.
+
+Near Hilloughby hill we met with another cottage family, regularly
+descended from British parents, of long standing in the island, and
+having all the features, and general appearance of Europeans. The father
+of this family was sixty years old, and some of his predecessors had
+lived to upwards of ninety. We could not trace the pædigree so
+accurately as in the other family; but this probably was not less
+ancient, the old man having no knowledge but of his Barbadian
+predecessors, and not knowing when they first came to the island. The
+occupation of this family was that of planting a small spot of land with
+ginger, and raising stock to sell at Bridge-town market. They were poor,
+like the others, and compelled to labour much in full exposure to the
+sun. Like the negroes, too, their diet consisted chiefly of vegetables.
+
+At the fort, commanding the entrance of Carlisle Bay, are living a man
+and his wife, both natives of Barbadoes, whose ancestors for
+generations, beyond all that tradition has traced to them, have resided
+constantly in the island: sitting round the mother were five fine
+children, their offspring, who were in face and form as fair as the
+fairest Europeans.
+
+These facts stand in direct opposition to the speculative doctrines of
+those who derive the various colours of the human race from climate or
+locality of residence, together with the concomitant circumstances of
+diet, and mode of life.
+
+The three families above mentioned are, undoubtedly, of the fifth or
+sixth, or, perhaps, a still more distant generation, in direct lineal
+descent, from parents, originally, English; but whose offspring, through
+every race, to the present children, have always resided between the
+tropics. They have, moreover, lived in circumstances of mediocrity,
+exposed to labour, and to the full influence of climate; or have known
+only the abode of poverty, and by needy fortune have been compelled to
+use a diet very similar to that of the Africans. Yet is there not an
+individual among them, who, either in form, feature, or colour has made
+the slightest approach to that change, which a constant residence,
+through so many generations, must have effected, were their descendants,
+of future ages, to become of negro form, and hue.
+
+Children born in England have not fairer skins, nor features more
+correctly European. The younger have all the cherub face and form of the
+lovely smiling babes of a temperate climate. Those more advanced are
+thinner, and bear about them more of that languor, which universally
+results from long residence in great and constant heat.
+
+To whatever age the parents may have lived, it is remarkable that,
+although the face and hands shall have become brown, from immediate
+exposure to the sun, the other parts of their bodies remain white and
+unchanged; and not the softest shade, not the slightest tinge of the
+acquired darkness of hands or face is communicated to their offspring,
+the children being, invariably, born as perfect whites as those of
+Europe.
+
+But the strong and incontrovertible fact with respect to the American
+Indians, militates so decidedly against the doctrine of conversion, that
+scarcely another argument can be necessary to its refutation. Although
+living for unknown ages under the same parallel of latitude as the
+Africans, and exposed to precisely similar habits and occupations, not
+an individual of them has ever been known to resemble the negro, either
+in skin or feature. Nor, indeed, would it be less reasonable to expect
+that the negroes of Africa, or those of the West India islands, should
+be converted into Indians, than that Indians, or Europeans, should
+degenerate into Africans!
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ April 11.
+
+It is almost incredible that on the 11th day of April the people of
+Barbadoes should remain ignorant regarding the situation of an immense
+fleet which sailed for that island, from England, in the month of
+November preceding! Yet so it is respecting the Portsmouth convoy. Signs
+of moving are now exhibited, which seem to indicate that the troops
+already arrived will not be longer detained inactive. Among other marks
+of approaching service, we have been called upon for a general return of
+the sick, and it appears in orders that Drs. Henderson and Cave, with a
+detachment of our staff, are to remain at Barbadoes in charge of the
+hospitals appropriated to the St. Domingo division. In consequence of
+many of the ships arriving in a sickly state, the hospitals became
+crowded as soon as they were erected, notwithstanding our having the
+further accommodation of converting a part of the barracks into sick
+wards. But we have, in some measure, relieved the hospitals, by forming
+a small encampment, and putting the convalescents under canvass.
+
+We expect that you will hear from various quarters, and read in all the
+newspapers sad histories of disease and death, but let me caution you
+not to believe that we are all dying. Should it be told you that more
+than a thousand sick are already in the hospitals, be not deceived into
+a belief that so many are about to become the victims of climate, and
+yellow fever.
+
+The hospitals are certainly thronged, from the number of sick, but this
+cannot be placed to the account of the climate or of endemic disease,
+for, nearly all the men, now ill, _arrived_ in sickness. They had been
+detained on Spike Island, or in crowded transports, during many weeks of
+inhospitable weather, whereby extensive disease was generated among
+them; and hence it happened that, upon arriving at Barbadoes, the troops
+in many of the ships, although not actually ill, had approaching disease
+so strongly marked in their features, that it became necessary to remove
+every one of them on shore, in order to have the vessels thoroughly
+fumigated and purified; and from this circumstance it occurred that many
+slight cases were thrown into the hospitals, which otherwise would not
+have appeared upon the list. This will in some measure explain to you
+why the hospitals are crowded, although neither “yellow fever,” nor any
+other malignant disease reigns amongst us.
+
+While I am upon the subject of sickness I may remark to you that I have
+had my first opportunity of seeing a case of that destructive malady,
+which has lately excited such universal alarm, under the term “yellow
+fever;” but, perhaps, you are not prepared to hear that, after a
+residence of so many weeks in the West Indies, I have seen only a
+solitary example of that disease: yet such is the fact—for, amidst all
+our sickness, and crowded hospitals, only a single instance of “yellow
+fever” has, hitherto, occurred. I visited this patient with my friend
+Dr. Jackson, the learned author who has so ably written upon the
+diseases of Jamaica, and obtained his clinical remarks concerning the
+leading and more characteristic symptoms of the disease. You will
+believe that the event has impressed upon my mind a very powerful sense
+of the subtle malignity of this devouring complaint.
+
+The patient was certainly very ill, but, to those who had not before
+witnessed the disease, he did not appear to be in extreme danger; yet,
+alas! on repeating our visit the following morning, we found him a cold
+and yellow corpse!
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XXXV.
+
+
+ Barbadoes, April 13.
+
+A rumour is strongly prevalent, that a division of the troops, now
+assembled at Barbadoes, is to be detached on secret service. Should this
+take place, and the detachment be formed from the St. Domingo armament,
+it is more than possible that our happy quartette may yet be dispersed
+before we reach our original destination. Of course our expectations
+have always led to this: but from having lived on board, together, and
+in the utmost harmony, during a period of many months, it would be
+matter of regret, to either of us, to be taken from our congenial mess,
+at the very eve of sailing for our destined port; particularly as we
+should be separated under circumstances which would render it probable
+that we might never meet again.
+
+I do not recollect to have noted to you in any former letter the great
+fondness which the negroes have for the water, or their singular address
+and expertness in moving upon that element. In one of our late walks we
+met with a slave who was amusing himself by exercises of uncommon
+agility in the sea. Not an otter, nor a beaver, nor scarcely a dolphin
+could appear more at his case. He was quite at play in the water, and
+diverting himself in all kinds of antic tricks, and gambols. He dived to
+the bottom—swam in a variety of ways—walked or paddled along like a
+dog—concealed himself for a long time under the water—laid himself at
+rest upon its surface, and appeared as much at home in the ocean, as if
+he had never breathed a lighter, nor trodden a firmer medium.
+
+This expertness is much derived from an early habit of bathing, or, as
+it might be termed, exercising in the water; and it renders the negroes
+peculiarly useful in cases of accident at sea, or in the harbour. Let
+them have a good boat, or canoe, and it will scarcely happen that they
+can be drowned. Even if they are upset, and the boat turned keel
+upwards, they rise at her sides, and there continue to swim or paddle
+until they again _right her_, then, bailing out the water, resume their
+seats and proceed as if nothing had happened.
+
+A sense of cleanliness attaches to their love of the water, for we not
+only see them often in the sea, but frequently also washing themselves
+in the rivulets. It seems to form one of their favorite amusements to
+stand in the sea, or a river, and to take up water in both hands and
+pour it over their shoulders down their backs. This is practised both by
+the men and women, and is one of their most frequent methods of bathing.
+
+Another mark of cleanliness also prevails among them which was less to
+be expected; viz. that of paying great attention to their teeth. The
+chew-stick which is here employed for cleaning the teeth is far more in
+use among the negroes, than the tooth-brush among the lower classes of
+people in England.
+
+Our adroit negro, amidst his many gambols in the water, dived often to
+the bottom of the sea, and brought up a handful of sand. With this rough
+dentifrice he soundly scrubbed his teeth, and by way of essence to wash
+it off, plunged down, for another handful, with his mouth wide open;
+thus, alternately, repeating the rubbing, and sea-water washing, until
+his teeth were duly contrasted with his ebon countenance.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XXXVI.
+
+
+ Ship Grenada, at Sea, April 17.
+
+The apprehended division of our long associated mess has taken place! It
+has fallen to my lot to join an expedition under General Whyte, and I am
+separated from my friends, perhaps soon to meet again, perhaps to meet
+no more! To what quarter we are bound is held in secrecy. Curaçoa,
+Demarara, St. Eustatia, and various other destinations have been
+conjectured, but, from the course we are at present steering, the coast
+of Guiana seems to be most probable.
+
+We were ordered away at very short notice. On returning to the Lord
+Sheffield after my visit at the hospital on the morning of the 14th
+inst. I received instructions to embark on board the Grenada transport
+before twelve o’clock; and to take the direction of a detachment of the
+hospital staff, appointed to accompany a division of the army, which was
+to sail that afternoon, on secret service.
+
+Being advised to carry with me as little baggage as possible, and
+assured that I might expect soon to return, in order to proceed with
+General Whyte, to St. Domingo, I made up a soldier’s kit of apparel, and
+left all my heavier packages, under the care of my late comrades, in the
+Lord Sheffield.
+
+The Grenada is a very fine vessel, and sails remarkably well. Like the
+Lord Sheffield, she is a West India trader, engaged as a transport only
+for the passage out, and as soon as she has completed her voyage is to
+return to England laden with sugar, cotton, or other colonial produce.
+
+I thought myself fortunate in being appointed to so good a ship; and,
+hearing that troops were to be thickly stowed on board the different
+vessels of the expedition, anticipated much of comfort upon the passage,
+by observing that the Grenada was free from the crowd I had expected to
+meet. But these self-gratulations proved to be somewhat premature.
+Upwards of three hundred troops arrived quickly after, and a scene of
+confusion was introduced surpassing all that even fancy had created.
+
+The lieutenant-colonel commanding the regiment, the commanding officer
+of artillery, and myself, are the only officers who have the
+accommodation of separate births: all the others are obliged to lie down
+together without beds, or mattresses, upon the bare decks of the cabins,
+and even there, they are compelled to stow closely, in order to make
+room for them all.
+
+On the upper deck the soldiers are still more thickly spread; they sleep
+without any other covering than their clothes of the day, using the arm,
+or the knapsack as a pillow; and so near do they lie to each other, that
+a foot can scarcely find place between them. Happily the wind is very
+favorable, and we are led to believe that whithersoever we may be bound
+the voyage will not be long. Having the steady breeze of the _trades_ on
+her quarter, the ship is worked almost wholly by the helm, and we seldom
+have need to shift the sails—occasional bracing being all that is
+necessary. If the weather had been bad, and the wind against us, you
+will readily imagine the sad state we must have been in, with such a
+body of men, sick, and ill, and crowded in every quarter of the vessel.
+Even as it is, we have much difficulty in keeping them sufficiently
+clean to preserve them in health. They lie down in their clothes at
+night, where they have been standing or sitting the whole of the day,
+and from the deck being their seat, their dinner-board, and their bed,
+all about them soon grows unwholesome and offensive: pieces of broken
+food, sloppings of broth, or grog, bits of meat, old bones, crumbs of
+biscuit, and various other kinds of filth collect under them, and about
+their clothing; and, from the great heat of climate, and still more
+unpleasant heat occasioned by the crowd, this dirty commixture soon
+becomes sour and fetid; and would, in a short time, generate disease,
+were not the rules of cleanliness strictly enforced.
+
+Besides those who sleep upon the open deck above, there is another
+multitude in a more confined situation between decks. Observing this
+place to be very close, and not sufficiently ventilated, I have
+recommended that the troops should be divided into three watches, and
+that two of the three divisions should be kept constantly upon the open
+deck, relieving those below every four hours. Likewise as a further
+means of prevention I have advised that all the men should bathe every
+morning, while the decks are thoroughly washed and cleaned. Fortunately
+I am supported in this by the approbation of Colonel Tilson, who is
+exceedingly zealous to do every thing that can preserve the health of
+the soldiers, and has issued his orders accordingly.
+
+We have contrived a method whereby the bathing is effected with less
+trouble than was at first apprehended. The men are regularly assembled
+by companies upon the quarter-deck, at an early hour of the morning, and
+there undressing, two at a time, they go down to the waist of the ship,
+and remain at the bottom of the step leading from the quarter-deck,
+until two or three buckets of water have been dashed upon them by some
+of their comrades standing directly above them upon the edge of the
+deck, others being stationed at the sides to draw up water for the
+purpose. After being thus washed, they move on to the forecastle to
+dress themselves, others following in succession until the whole are
+bathed.
+
+We find some difficulty in establishing this practice, but I hope in a
+few days to see it brought to the regularity of a military movement: the
+benefit of it is not confined merely to cleanliness of person, for,
+while the bathing is going on, the decks, where the soldiers sleep, are
+thoroughly swept and washed. Its utility is also further extended, in
+the general movement it creates, and the refreshing coolness it brings
+to every one on board. Were the voyage to be long, our experience of the
+few past days seems to assure us that this daily washing would be our
+best, and, perhaps, our only preservative against sickness.
+
+The expedition consists of about thirteen hundred men of the 39th, 93d,
+and 99th regiments commanded by Lieutenant-colonels Tilson, Hislop, and
+Gammell, and a party of artillery, under the command of Captain Bagot.
+The squadron of the fleet, employed with us, is under Commodore Parr,
+and consists of the Malabar of 50 guns, La Pique, Le Babet, and the
+Undaunted frigates; to which are added, the Grenada armed transport,
+with several sloops, and schooners.
+
+I must not forget to note that I am now addressing you from the opposite
+side of the sun. This day, in latitude 9° 27′, we passed immediately
+under that burning orb, receiving his perpendicular rays directly upon
+our heads. I have nothing further to tell you on this occasion. His
+southern face seems neither hotter nor colder, brighter nor darker, than
+his northern. The only striking circumstance arises from the novelty of
+looking to the north at noon, to take our meridian; and habit will be
+required to reconcile this seeming inconsistency. While you at mid-day
+look south for the sun, I shall look north, and although our noon will
+be different, this circumstance will often, mentally, place me with you.
+The effect, I wish to flatter myself, will be reciprocal, and, attracted
+by his opposite sides, the cheering sun will be frequently the medium of
+associating us in mutual sympathy.
+
+ Adieu.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XXXVII.
+
+
+ At Sea, April 20.
+
+Our destination is no longer a secret! The captain went yesterday on
+board the commodore, and received his instructions; when the Dutch
+colonies, upon the coast of Guiana, were avowed to be the object of our
+expedition.
+
+In the evening we came into thick water indicating our approach to
+the shore; but no land could be perceived even from the
+top-gallant-mast-head. This morning the sea was still more muddy, of
+a yellowish colour, and, comparatively, very shallow. Land was
+unquestionably near, but, still, not visible. In the course of the
+day trees were seen from the masthead, and we came to anchor only a
+few leagues from them; but, even yet, without being able to see the
+soil on which they grew. It is common to descry a streak at the
+horizon, or a kind of line, or fixed point in the clouds, denoting
+the coast which a vessel approaches, long before it reaches it; but,
+here, we are in muddy water, near the colony, with trees in view,
+without being able to distinguish any other mark of the territory
+before us. It seems to be a peculiar shore, the water being very
+thick and shallow at a great distance from the land.
+
+Orders are issued for three days’ provisions to be cooked, and for the
+troops to hold themselves in readiness for immediate debarkation. They
+have, consequently, been paraded this evening upon deck; their arms and
+accoutrements cleaned and inspected; and all put in a state for action.
+The soldiers are forewarned in general orders that all irregular
+conduct, towards the inhabitants, on landing, will subject them to
+certain punishment and disgrace; and plunder is prohibited on pain of
+death. The field-artillery, with carriages, sponges, ammunition, and all
+the necessary apparatus have been put into boats, this evening, from our
+ship, preparatory to being conveyed on shore with the troops in the
+morning, and, after a day of great hurry and labour, all is in readiness
+for leaving the vessel.
+
+Instructions are given concerning the plan of attack by the troops, and
+the stations to be taken by the different ships; and every thing seems
+to imply a busy morrow; yet, notwithstanding our vessel is to be at a
+post of some danger, I shall hope to note to you the detail of our
+proceedings in a future letter. At present, I seek my birth, cordially
+bidding you ... good night!
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XXXVIII.
+
+
+ Stabroek, April 23.
+
+I have again the pleasure of addressing you upon terra firma, and of
+telling you that the united colony of Essequibo and Demarara is ours.
+All being in readiness for landing on the morning of the 21st, the
+troops were ordered to proceed on shore, with the earliest tide, and the
+frigates, with the Grenada, and the slave-ship, were directed to take
+their stations before the fort, at the entrance of the river. The larger
+ships were unable to approach near enough to give any protection to the
+landing of the troops and stores, which were put on board a little fleet
+of light vessels, some of which were brought with us from Barbadoes for
+the purpose; and some taken after our arrival upon the coast; but it
+proved unfortunately that even these, light as they were, drew too much
+water for this shore; for, about five o’clock, we had the mortification
+to learn that our advanced fleet was fast aground, deep fixed in mud.
+Finding the small vessels to be in this dilemma, our ship, together with
+others which had sailed through a very confined channel towards the
+fort, came to anchor near the entrance of the Demarara river, having the
+fort, also a Dutch frigate, and a number of shipping in full view before
+them. This accident might have proved of serious consequence, as the
+troops were compelled to remain until the next flood tide; being unable
+either to reach the shore, or to return.
+
+In the events of this day we had a further proof of the extreme
+uncertainty of military operations, more particularly when connected
+with, or dependent upon maritime movements. In the morning we had every
+prospect of seeing the troops on shore, the fort taken, and the whole
+affair decided before we slept: but, in the evening, chagrin and
+disappointment were our lot: the great expectations of the day having
+ended in bringing some of the ships to an anchor off the mouth of the
+river, and placing the troops in an unhappy situation, from which it was
+out of the power of man to extricate them, until the unerring operations
+of nature should send back the waters of the ocean to their relief.
+
+The ships were anchored so near the river as to prevent the escape of
+any of the enemy’s vessels, and the troops on board were ordered to lie
+on their arms, upon deck, during the night, to prevent a surprise; and
+to be in readiness to act against the fort, at any hour they might be
+called upon.
+
+At eight o’clock the following morning the flag of truce which had been
+sent off to the fort returned. Due secrecy was of course observed
+regarding the reply; and presently the boat was again despatched to the
+fort; but as the little schooner fleet was ordered to return to the
+ships, at the flowing of the tide, instead of proceeding to land the
+troops; and as no orders were given to advance to the attack of the
+fort, it was presumed that the answer had not been hostile.
+
+Between ten and eleven o’clock the flag of truce again returned, and it
+was then announced that the capitulation was accepted, and that the fort
+was to surrender immediately to our troops. A party was accordingly
+detached, to take possession of a post agreed upon, and the whole
+garrison was to march out at four o’clock. Consequently, by evening, we
+found ourselves fully established in Fort William Frederic, the
+strongest, and almost the only defence of the colony.
+
+Notwithstanding our strict observance of cleanliness, and all our care
+to prevent disease, I am sorry to remark, that numbers of the soldiers
+fell sick on the passage: but, in mentioning this, I ought to observe
+that the 39th and 99th regiments were mostly composed of draughts from
+various other corps, consisting principally of old men, and unseasoned
+boys, who had been collected together, not according to the best
+regulations of the recruiting service; and also, that multitudes of them
+had been sick on the passage from Cork to Barbadoes, consequently many
+(of those now ill) are only suffering from a relapse of former disease.
+
+It is worthy of remark that, although upon the passage, not a morning
+had passed without a considerable number being reported for the sick
+list, we had not one new patient the day it was intended to make the
+landing; but, on the contrary, the list of the preceding day was
+diminished. The spirit of attack seemed to operate as a specific remedy.
+Many actually recovered, and were allowed to join their companies;
+others stole off, without reporting themselves, fearful the doctors
+should not allow that they were well enough to be reported efficient;
+and others, far too weak to bear arms, came feebly from under the awning
+of the quarter-deck, which had been converted into a sick-ward for their
+accommodation, and begged of me to permit them to go on shore to join
+their comrades in the battle. The idea of going into action proved a
+more salutary stimulus than could be found in the Pharmacopœia of the
+college of physicians; and the sound of the destructive cannon promised
+to be a more healing balm, than the mildest emollient prescribed by the
+doctor.
+
+In adverting to the country, from whence I address you, I may observe
+that circumstances attended our landing, which were not calculated to
+create a favorable impression of the colony. The day being wet, we were
+completely drenched with rain in the boats, and then set on shore in the
+midst of a heavy shower. From the landing-place we had nearly a mile to
+walk to the town; and such a walk, perhaps, could not have been found in
+any other country—Holland excepted. From the nature of the road it was
+almost impossible to maintain ourselves upon our feet for a single step.
+Fatigued by heat, we had to drag along in the rain, either ancle-deep in
+mud, or slipping and sliding about upon a wet surface of clay.
+
+We arrived at the town in a sadly wet and bespattered condition; but
+here we found our feet relieved by stepping on a narrow causeway, paved
+with small bricks put edgewise into the ground. This was a glad change
+to our trembling limbs, and now, from requiring less heed to our steps,
+and the rain ceasing, we had an opportunity of looking round, to observe
+the general appearance of the town and the country. I could have fancied
+myself in Holland. The land appeared as one wide flat, intersected with
+dykes and canals; the roads mere banks of mud and clay, thrown from the
+ditches at their sides; and the houses bedaubed with tawdry colours,
+like Dutch toys, giving the whole a striking resemblance to the
+mother-country.
+
+The town is simply two long rows of houses, built very distant from each
+other, with a wide green in the middle, by way of street. It is more
+than a mile in length, running in a line from the river back to the
+forest—the most inconvenient form that could have been contrived, as it
+places most of the buildings far away from the river, and deprives them
+of the great advantages, for trade, which they might have had by being
+erected parallel with the course of the water. To remedy this defect
+canals and ditches have been cut, at the backs of the houses, which are
+perhaps the worst neighbours the inhabitants could have near them, for,
+being the receptacles of mud, and all the filthy drainings of the town,
+and only partially emptied by the reflux of the tide, they become highly
+offensive, and tend to generate disease. The causeway of bricks is
+continued throughout the whole length of the street; but the
+carriage-road is of mere clay and mud.
+
+After waiting upon the General, at the government-house, I lost no time
+in proceeding upon duty; and, without delay, went out in search of some
+building to convert into an hospital, or place of accommodation for the
+sick. This would have led to a new journey, by way of the wet and
+slippery road, to the fort; but, among the happy events of the day,
+fortune threw me in the path of a gentleman residing in the town, who,
+upon observing me toiling through the mud and clay, insisted upon my
+taking his boat and slaves to convey me to the fort, by way of the
+river, assuring me that to walk so far might be a dangerous excess of
+fatigue; and, further, directing his negroes to wait, and bring me back
+to his house, to dinner. Perhaps I was little inclined to refuse, but it
+would have been difficult to resist the pressing civility with which the
+accommodation was offered; accordingly, I accepted the boat, and,
+afterwards, returned and ate of boiled fowl, and a roasted kid. During
+dinner the friendly invitation was extended to a request, almost
+amounting to a demand, from both the gentleman and lady of the table,
+that I would make their dwelling my home so long as the service should
+require my continuance at Stabroek. Thus has fortune, at once,
+established me in good quarters in the enemy’s country, without a
+billet, and even without the trouble of seeking them.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XXXIX.
+
+
+ Demarara, April 28.
+
+Having secure possession of the colony of Essequibo and Demarara, a
+division of our armament has been detached to the attack of the
+adjoining settlement of Berbische, which separates us from Surinam.
+
+The whole of the coast not being yet cleared of its wild woods, no
+regular road is established between the two colonies, although Demarara
+and Berbische lie contiguous to each other: hence this, like most of our
+expeditions, is exposed to all the uncertainties of the wind and the
+ocean. The troops were embarked on board small sloops and schooners,
+calculated for the shallow waters of this muddy coast; and it is
+expected that they will reach Berbische to-morrow evening, or the
+following morning, the distance between the two great rivers, which give
+names to the colonies, being but little more than twenty leagues.
+
+We are taught that it will not be possible to procure fresh animal
+provisions in these colonies, in the quantity necessary for the army;
+but it is suggested that we may obtain a supply from the Spaniards, who
+have great numbers of wild cattle, in the island of Trinidad, and upon
+the neighbouring coast of Oronoko. Vegetables and fruits we find, here,
+in great plenty. The market, as at Barbadoes, is held on Sunday, and is
+supplied by means of what the negroes either grow, or steal.
+
+Being anxious to provide for the sick, in the best way that was in my
+power, I became, on Sunday last, quite a forestaller of the market. It
+will, perhaps, surprise you to learn that among our purchases I bought a
+hamper of pines, nearly as heavy as a negro could carry, for the small
+sum of _three bits_. On counting them over, I found that I had seventeen
+large pines for fifteen-pence, being somewhat less than a penny each.
+
+On our arrival in the town of Stabroek, we met with an infuriated
+citizen-republican in one of the inhabitants, whose rash and jacobinical
+zeal outran all the bounds of discretion. He not only avowed, but sought
+to inculcate the most violent revolutionary principles; and although he
+had much cause of distress, from domestic affliction, he could not
+resist the pleasure of grossly abusing the “_English aristocrats_,” and
+indulging in loud political declamation! His wife had died the evening
+the Dutch garrison surrendered; but the colony becoming subject to the
+“_monarchical English_,” was deeper grief to this _modern_ republican,
+than the loss of his wife. Religion, and even its forms seem to be,
+here, dispensed with, for they have neither a place of worship, nor of
+interment. Citizen M— followed his poor unlamented wife to the fields,
+and there consigned her to a hole in the earth, uttering his grief in
+loud curses against ... _the aristocrats_!
+
+A few days since I had an opportunity of dining in company with several
+of the planters of this colony, who have estates upon the seacoast; and
+I could not but remark a striking difference between these gentlemen,
+and those who reside constantly in Stabroek, or in Bridge-town; compared
+to whom they would seem the more robust inhabitants of a temperate
+climate. Both in countenance and in general stamina, they are very
+unlike the sallow-looking subjects of the towns. To find any of the
+colonists with such strong and healthy frames, was particularly
+satisfactory to me, having been impressed with a contrary expectation,
+from the discouraging reports I had heard regarding these settlements.
+
+From all that I had collected upon the subject, I understood it to be a
+generally received opinion at Barbadoes, and the neighbouring islands,
+that the climate upon the coast of Guiana was, singularly, unhealthy:
+but the appearance of the gentlemen alluded to is sufficient to rescue
+it from a prejudice so unwarranted.
+
+I have made a visit to a coffee plantation, near the town, where I saw
+an extensive display of the luxuriancy of the soil of Guiana. This
+estate differs from the wide fields upon the coast, only in being a flat
+surface of coffee, instead of cotton; but it is rendered rich and
+inviting, from being traversed with green walks, shaded with fine rows
+of trees, whose loaded branches bend under the various species of
+tropical fruits, serving, at the same time, to delight the eye, regale
+the olfactories, and refresh the palate. A pleasant path, more than a
+mile in length, and of sufficient width for carriages, leads down the
+middle of the estate, the sides being decorated with mangoes, oranges,
+avagata-pears, and many other kinds of fruit.
+
+Crossing this walk, near the centre, is a thick grove of many hundreds
+of orange-trees, clad in all the variety of umbrageous foliage, fragrant
+blossoms, unripe _green_ and ripe _golden_ fruit.
+
+In the genial climate of Europe, how delightful would be fields or
+gardens thus planted, and how exquisitely enjoyed! But, here, under the
+scorchings of a torrid sun, while the eye, and the olfactories, and the
+palate are gratified, the tortured sense of feeling precludes every
+possibility of comfort. If exposed to the open sun, the excess of heat
+produces insupportable languor and fatigue; and if we seek the
+protecting shade of the fruit-trees, we are, there, plagued with the
+sharp bitings of myriads of musquitoes.
+
+Invited by the grateful odour, and taking advantage of the cool shade, I
+left the broad and heated path, to ramble in the sweet avenues of the
+orange grove, but, ere my foot had traced its second step in the soft
+grass, I was beset by thousands of these tormenting insects, and
+compelled to make a hasty retreat.
+
+In my escape I experienced more courteous fare; for, upon turning from
+the shaded path, a very fine mulatto woman of the house, seeing me
+walking, and observing me to be a stranger, came out, with a plate of
+the sweetest oranges of the grove, and, inviting me to eat, with much
+gracefulness and urbanity, bade me welcome.
+
+Presently afterwards I met a robust negro carrying a heavy basket of
+fruit upon his head, and, asking him how they disposed of the immense
+numbers of oranges growing upon the estate, he replied “Gib ’em to de
+neighbours, Massa.” Availing myself of this information, I wrote to
+Mynheer Meertens, the attorney of the estate, and have obtained
+permission to gather basketsful of oranges for the sick soldiers,
+whenever I please.
+
+I should feel it an unworthy omission not to give you a copy of Mynheer
+Meertens’ obliging note to the manager, after reading my request. It was
+as follows: “Monsr. Keller, à l’habitation Vlessingen, aura la bonté de
+procurer, de tems en tems, pour les militaires qui sont malades, les
+fruits tels qu’ils s’y trouvent. Il obligera son très humble serviteur,”
+
+ “A. MEERTENS.”
+
+During the few days, since our arrival here, events and circumstances
+have occurred, as if they had been designed expressly to place before us
+what was likely to be most striking to Europeans. Already we have
+witnessed the humiliating, but very interesting sight of a cargo of
+several hundreds of human subjects being landed from a slave-ship, and
+exposed to public sale; and on the other hand, naked beings, who range
+in the utmost freedom of human nature, have presented themselves in
+crowds to our observation; parties of copper-coloured Indians, from the
+wild woods, having come down the river in their canoes to visit the
+town. It has also happened to me to be addressed by a wretched slave,
+strongly intreating me to purchase her from her master; and I have
+further witnessed with surprise, the more than apathy, perhaps I might
+say, the exultation of a white lady, on hearing the cries of a negro
+suffering under the whip. Likewise the honor has been done me of having
+a young slave placed by my elbow at dinner-time, with a fragrant bough
+to defend me from the flies; and I have been complimented with a negro
+to sleep at my bed-room door, in order to be in readiness, in case I
+should require him to beat off the musquitoes, or to bring me any thing
+in the night.
+
+It proves that we are here just in time to witness the setting in of the
+rainy season; it having announced itself by the falling of rapid showers
+almost every morning since our landing: and, amidst all the novelties of
+this moment, I must not forget to add, that I now experience the
+tormenting sensation of having my whole skin thickly beset with prickly
+heat.
+
+We find that the Western code of hospitality, so prominent at Barbadoes,
+is not confined to that island. It extends equally to the coast of South
+America. The planters, whom I have had the pleasure to meet at Stabroek,
+have invited me, in the most cordial manner, to their several homes,
+offering me every accommodation at their plantations in the country,
+whenever I may find time to visit them.
+
+I should tell you that the unhappy slave, who came to me to intreat that
+I would purchase her, was a very decent young woman, here termed a
+“house-wench.” The hardships and ill treatment she had suffered, had
+created, she said, such an entire dislike to her present home, that if
+she could find no “_good Massa_” who would buy her, she had determined
+to try to escape from her misery by running away. The poor creature
+shuddered as she mentioned this expedient, sensible that if she should
+be retaken, her sufferings, great as they were, would be sadly
+multiplied. Still she declared she was firmly resolved to hazard the
+attempt, rather than continue her, now, wretched life, hopeless of
+relief.
+
+The heavy tear swelled on her dark cheek as she related the severities
+to which she had been subjected. Her tale was at once interesting and
+distressful. It needed not the aid of eloquence to move compassion. The
+simple narration of the cruelties imposed, and the punishments inflicted
+for only trivial faults, instantly roused the feelings, and in strong
+appeal begat a new regret that hosts of human creatures, for the mere
+lucre of a few of their fellow-beings, differing in the colour of their
+skin, should be degraded to a situation, which not only deprives them of
+the command of their persons, but, also, robs them of all the powers of
+will.
+
+Divested of every right, a slave has no redress, not even against the
+bitterest wrongs: however oppressed, however injured, he has no
+resource—no means of relief! Not having the power of changing his home,
+he has no escape from ill usage or cruelty; but is condemned to travel
+the long journey of life in hopeless discontent.
+
+The corporal punishment of slaves is so common, that instead of exciting
+the repugnant sensations, felt by Europeans on first witnessing it,
+scarcely does it produce, in the breasts of those accustomed to the West
+Indies, even the slightest glow of compassion. The lady I have above
+alluded to appears of good natural disposition, and in no degree
+disposed to general cruelty; but the frequency of the sight has rendered
+her callous to its usual influence upon the feelings. Being one morning
+at her house, while sitting in conversation, we suddenly heard the loud
+cries of a negro smarting under the whip. Mrs. —— expressed surprise on
+observing me shudder at his shrieks, and you will believe that I was in
+utter astonishment to find her treat his sufferings as matter of
+amusement. It proved that the punishment proceeded from the arm of the
+lady’s husband, and fell upon one of her own slaves! Can you believe
+that on learning this, she exclaimed with a broad smile, “Aha! it will
+do him good! a little wholesome flagellation will refresh him: it will
+sober him: it will open his skin, and make him alert. If Y— was to give
+it them all, it would be of service to them!”
+
+I could not compliment the lady upon her humanity. The loud clang of the
+whip continued, and the poor imploring negro as loudly cried, “_Oh
+Massa, Massa,—God a’mighty—God bless you, Massa! I beg you pardon! Oh!
+Massa, Oh! I beg you pardon! Oh! God—a’mighty—God bless you!_”—Still the
+whip sounded aloud, and still the lady cried “Ay, it is very necessary!”
+
+Such is the effect of habit in subduing even our most amiable emotions.
+Could this lady have known how much her remarks deformed her, policy
+would have led, no doubt, to a different expression, although humanity
+had not taught, nor custom allowed her to possess a better sentiment!
+
+What would you say were you to see me return home rich as a West India
+planter? Sanguine whisper fondly augments the value of our captured
+property to upwards of £200,000! We hear of various ships, of extensive
+stores, of large estates, and of whole gangs of slaves, all public
+property, to be confiscated for the benefit of the _captors_; and from
+my being here, in the direction of a department, I am told, that I ought
+to calculate upon receiving a sum by no means despicable. My
+expectations, however, do not run very high, being aware of the close
+meltings, which such kind of property usually undergoes, before it
+becomes sufficiently refined for the pockets of the claimants[7].
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XL.
+
+
+ Stabroek, May 6, 1796.
+
+Previous to giving you the intelligence which reaches us at this place,
+it were fit to inform you that the island of Barbadoes is now become, as
+it were, the London of the West Indies—the great capital to which we
+anxiously look for events, and for news. Removed to a still farther
+distance from you, and without any direct communication, we seem
+dependent upon this sub-metropolis; and we acquire the tidings of
+England, of Europe, of the West India Islands, and of the main body of
+our army, only as conveyed to us, indirectly, viâ Barbadoes.
+
+Two vessels have arrived from thence; by which we learn that the
+Commander in Chief, and the troops did not sail until the 21st of April,
+being six days after the time we left Barbadoes. It was not publicly
+known whether they were gone against Guadaloupe, or St. Lucie; but, from
+all the circumstances of the armament, it seems now to be the current
+opinion that Guadaloupe is not to be attacked during the present
+campaign.
+
+We are told that Admiral Christian arrived just before the troops
+departed from Barbadoes, bringing with him twenty-seven sail of vessels,
+the remnant of the immense fleet with which he originally sailed, in the
+month of November!
+
+You will not envy our walks in the neighbourhood of Stabroek, when I
+tell you that the wet season is completely set in, and that from the
+soil being of pure mud and clay, we cannot move a step from the door
+without being ancle-deep. Such roads were scarcely ever seen; and, not
+having yet an opportunity of purchasing a horse, I am compelled daily to
+walk mid-leg deep in moist clay, or to drag my limbs through a path
+still deeper in mud.
+
+Since the date of my last letter, I have been witness to a gentleman
+calling up one of his slaves, into the breakfast-room, and giving him
+orders to go with three others into the fields, the highways, or the
+woods, and cut grass, to sell in the town, charging him to recollect
+that it was at the pain of a “good flogging” if they did not each bring
+him home four bits[8] at night: adding, by way of encouragement, that,
+if they could gain more, they might keep the surplus for themselves.
+They went out, each taking a long knife and a string, and returned,
+punctually, in the evening with the sixteen bits.
+
+Unfortunately I am now enabled to speak of the punishment of a slave,
+which was far more severe than that mentioned in my last letter; and, I
+am sorry to add, attended with similar marks of insensibility, and want
+of feeling, on the part of a white female. Happening to call one morning
+upon a lady at Stabroek, in company with several Europeans who had been
+my fellow-passengers hither, we were scarcely seated before we heard the
+clang of the whip, and the painful cries of an unfortunate black. The
+lady of the house, more accustomed to scenes of slavery than ourselves,
+pointing to the spot, as if it were a pleasant sight for strangers, or
+something that might divert us, asked, with apparent glee, if we saw
+them “_flogging the negre_!” Truly we saw the whole too clearly. A poor
+unhappy slave was stretched out naked, upon the open street, tied down,
+with his face to the ground, before the fiscal’s door, his two legs
+extended to one stake, his arms strained out, at full length, to two
+others in form of the letter Y, and, thus secured to the earth, two
+strong-armed drivers[9], placed at his sides, were cutting his bare
+skin, by turns, with long heavy-lashed whips, which, from the sound,
+alone, without seeing the blood that followed, conveyed the idea of
+tearing away pieces of flesh at every stroke.
+
+I am exceedingly happy to be able to relieve you from this painful
+scene, by presenting to you one of a very opposite nature—one in which
+every feeling of your heart will warmly participate. A party of recently
+arrived Europeans went to dine at “Arcadia;” the plantation of a Mr.
+Osborn, about eight miles from Stabroek. Five slaves were sent, with a
+handsome covered boat, to conduct us thither. We had a most pleasant
+sail, about six miles up the river; and, then, we were drawn about two
+miles further, by the negroes running at the side of the canal, leading
+to the estate, singing all the way, and pulling, in merry tune,
+together. On our arrival at Mr. Osborn’s, we were presented with wine,
+fruits, and various refreshments; and, afterwards, were amused, till
+dinner-time, in viewing the coffee plantation, the negro-yard, and the
+different premises. At dinner we shared all the good things of the
+colony, and, in the afternoon, were conducted across the canal to visit
+the estate, and happy home of Mr. Dougan, a neighbour whom Mr. Osborn
+had invited to meet us. Here we found a rich sugar plantation bordered
+with coffee and fruits.
+
+I cannot express how much we were interested and gratified with all we
+saw at this cheerful abode of Mr. Dougan. The plantation is laid out
+with much taste, and having every advantage of culture, it exhibits, in
+high perfection, all the luxuriance of an opulent tropical estate.
+Utility, comfort, and convenience, are here most happily combined. A
+private canal leads through the middle of the grounds, and serves for
+ornament and pleasure, as well as for bringing home the copious harvests
+of coffee and sugar.
+
+At its sides are smooth walks of grass; and between these and the
+sugar-canes are borders planted with all the choice tropical fruits,
+rendering a promenade upon the water, or its banks, most fragrant and
+inviting, and offering to the eye and the palate all the variety of
+oranges, shaddocks, forbidden fruit, citrons, limes, lemons, cherries,
+custard-apples, cashew-apples, avagata-pears, grenadilloes,
+water-lemons, mangoes, and pines. The other walks, which traverse the
+plantation, are also cool and sweet-smelling avenues of fruit-trees.
+
+But however great the richness, beauty, and fragrance of the estate, its
+canals, and its walks, still I am sensible that I shall more firmly
+secure your attachment to it, by mentioning the simple fact that, to the
+slaves it affords ... a happy home!
+
+I know not whether, upon any occasion, since my departure from England,
+I have experienced such heart-felt pleasure as in witnessing the high
+degree of comfort and happiness enjoyed by the slaves of “Profit.” Mr.
+Dougan not only grants them many little indulgences, and studies to make
+them happy, but he fosters them with a father’s care, whilst they,
+sensible of his tenderness towards them, look to their revered master as
+a kind and affectionate parent; and, with undivided—unsophisticated
+attachment, cheerfully devote, to him, their labour and their lives.
+
+Not satisfied with bestowing upon his negroes mere food and raiment, Mr.
+Dougan establishes for them a kind of right. He assures to them certain
+property, endeavours to excite feelings of emulation among them, and to
+inspire them with a spirit of neatness and order, not commonly known
+among blacks; and I rejoice to add that the effects of his friendly
+attentions, towards them, are strongly manifested in their persons,
+their dwellings, and their general demeanour. Perhaps it were not too
+much to say, that the negro-yard at “Profit” forms one of the happiest
+villages within the wide circle of the globe!
+
+The slaves of Mr. Dougan are not only fed, and clothed, and tenderly
+watched in sickness, without any personal thought, or concern; but each
+has his appropriate spot of ground, and his cottage, in which he feels a
+right as sacred as if secured to him by all the seals and parchments of
+the Lord High Chancellor of England, and his court.
+
+Happy and contented, the slave of “Profit” sees all his wants supplied:
+never having been in a state of freedom, he has no desire for it: not
+having known liberty, he feels not the privation of it; nor is it within
+the powers of his mind either to conceive or comprehend the sense we
+attach to the term. Were freedom offered to him he would refuse to
+accept it, and would only view it as a state fraught with certain
+difficulties and vexations, but offering no commensurate good. “_Who gib
+me for gnyhaam Massa_,” he asks, “_if me free?_” “_Who gib me clothes?_”
+“_Who send me a doctor when me sick?_”
+
+With industry a slave has no acquaintance; nor has he any knowledge of
+the kind of comfort and independence which derive from it. Ambition has
+not taught him that, in freedom, he might escape from poverty; nor has
+he any conception that by improving his intellect he might become of
+higher importance in the scale of humanity. Thus circumstanced, to
+remove him from the quiet and contentment of such a bondage, and to
+place him amidst the tumults and vicissitudes of freedom, were but to
+impose upon him the exchange of great comparative happiness, for much of
+positive difficulty and distress.
+
+From what has been said you will perceive that it is difficult to do
+justice to the merit of Mr. Dougan. His humane and liberal conduct does
+him infinite honor; while the richness of the estate and the happiness
+of the slaves loudly proclaim his attentive concern.
+
+The cottages and little gardens of the negroes exhibited a degree of
+neatness, and plenty, which might be envied by free-born Britons, not of
+the poorest class. The huts of Ireland, Scotland, France, Germany, and
+many, even of England itself, bear no comparison with these. In
+impulsive delight I ran into several of them, surprising the slaves with
+an unexpected visit. They mostly consist of a comfortable sitting-room,
+and a clean, well-furnished bedchamber. In one I observed a high
+bedstead, according to the present European fashion, with deep
+mattresses, all nicely made up, and covered with a clean white
+counterpane; the bed-posts, drawers, and chairs bearing the polish of
+well-rubbed mahogany. I felt a desire to pillow my head in this hut for
+the night, it not having fallen to my lot, since I left England, to
+repose on so inviting a couch. The value of the whole was tenfold
+augmented by the contented slaves being able to say, “All this we feel
+to be our own.”
+
+Too often in regarding the countenance of a slave, it may be observed
+that
+
+ “Dark Melancholy sits, and round her throws
+ A death-like silence, and a dread repose,”
+
+but throughout Mr. Dougan’s happy gang the more striking features are
+those of mirth and glee; for, here, the merry dance and jovial song
+prevail, and all are votaries to joy and harmony.
+
+Before the doors of the huts, and around these peaceful dwellings were
+seen great numbers of pigs, and poultry, which the slaves are allowed to
+raise for their own profit; and from the stock, thus bred in the
+negro-yard, the master usually purchases the provisions of his table,
+paying the common price for which they would be sold at the market.
+
+The conduct of Mr. Osborn to his slaves, and, indeed, of many others I
+might mention, is also very highly commendable. The negroes at Arcadia
+have much cause of contentment; their happiness and welfare being
+guarded with a parental care. Were all masters kind and humane as Mr.
+Dougan, and his neighbour, the peasants of Europe, although blessed with
+freedom, might sigh, in vain, for the happiness enjoyed——by slaves.
+
+Owing to the tide being out, at the time we returned, there was not
+sufficient water in the canal to admit of our going down in the boat; we
+were compelled, therefore, to walk nearly two miles before we embarked.
+During this walk, we were almost in danger of being devoured by the
+musquitoes, which attacked us in such daring hosts that we were obliged
+to carry small boughs in our hands, and to continue, the whole time,
+beating them from our legs and faces.
+
+The fire-flies were, scarcely, less numerous; but, notwithstanding the
+annoyance we suffered by their flying against us, they inflicted no
+pain. They neither tormented us with bites, nor stings; but in such
+myriads did they dart and play about us, that it appeared as if we were
+walking in an atmosphere filled with moving stars. One piece of coffee,
+in particular, had its whole surface so illumined by these insects, as
+to convey the idea of the field being overspread with fire. After going
+into the boat, and proceeding towards the middle of the river, both
+fire-flies and musquitoes forsook us; and we were pleasantly rowed down
+to the town by four of Mr. Osborn’s contented slaves.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XLI.
+
+
+ Stabroek, May 8.
+
+General Whyte and part of the detachment which accompanied him, are
+returned to Demarara, leaving the 93d regiment, in garrison, at
+Berbische; that colony having capitulated upon the same terms as
+Demarara and Essequibo. The commerce is to be directed to the ports of
+England; in return for which she offers protection and defence. All that
+concerns the military proceedings is to rest with the English; but, in
+whatever regards the civil administration, the settlements are to
+preserve the established laws and form of government, until the end of
+the war; and the present Dutch governors are not to be removed.
+
+Under these conditions most of the Dutch soldiers, who were in the
+garrison, have consented to enlist into our service, and to act
+conjointly with our troops in defence of this coast. We thus acquire the
+aid of a corps well seasoned to the country, and ready, at all moments,
+to act in concert for the general benefit of the settlements.
+
+It is likewise intended to strengthen the garrison by forming a corps of
+negroes to be called “The South American Rangers.” This will be a
+valuable addition to our force, as these men are not subject to the
+debilitating effects of climate, but are active in the greatest heat;
+and are capable of supporting the most fatiguing duties under the direct
+rays of a vertical sun.
+
+Surinam, belonging to the Dutch, borders Berbische, on our right, and a
+little further up the coast is the French colony of Cayenne. With such
+restless neighbours about us, we shall require to be watchful and alert.
+On our left we approach the river Oronoko, and what is termed the
+Spanish main: and not far from the coast of Essequibo is the Spanish
+island of Trinidad. From this quarter we hope to procure beef: from the
+other we expect only blows.
+
+A communication is to be opened directly with the Spaniards, in order to
+negotiate for the purchase of cattle from the woods; which, we are told,
+they will be glad to sell at six or seven dollars per head.
+
+We are now very much in want of fresh animal provisions; for, since the
+time of our arrival, I have only been able to procure two or three small
+sheep, for the use of the hospital. But, as the guardian of the sick, I
+owe much gratitude to the gentlemen of the colony, for some liberal
+presents of beef and mutton, which their humanity has induced them to
+send to the hospital for the comfort of the suffering soldiers. Two
+neighbouring gentlemen, in particular, Mr. T. Cuming, and Mr. Waterton,
+have the prayers of the sick, and the best acknowledgments of their
+attendants. Occasionally they have sent us an ox, or a sheep; or have
+shared, with the sick, the best provisions of their table.
+
+Fruits are given to us from various estates, not only by gallons and
+bushels, but by cartloads and boat-loads, at a time; and, by these
+generous aids, we have been able to improve the comforts of the sick,
+beyond all that money could have effected.
+
+A few days ago I had the opportunity of being present at a more regular
+sale, or market of slaves than I had seen before, and here I witnessed
+all the heart-rending distress attendant upon such a scene. I saw
+numbers of our fellow-beings regularly bartered for gold, and
+transferred, like cattle, or any common merchandise, from one possessor
+to another. It was a sight which European curiosity had rendered me
+desirous to behold, although I had anticipated from it only a painful
+gratification, I may now say——_I have seen it!_ and while nature
+animates my breast with even the feeblest spark of humanity, I can never
+forget it!
+
+The poor Africans, who were to be sold, were exposed, naked, in a large
+empty building, like an open barn. Those, who came with intention to
+purchase, minutely inspected them; handled them; made them jump, and
+stamp with their feet, and throw out their arms and their legs; turned
+them about; looked into their mouths; and, according to the usual rules
+of traffic with respect to cattle, examined them, and made them show
+themselves in a variety of ways, to try if they were sound and healthy.
+All this was distressful as humiliating, and tended to excite strong
+aversion and disgust: but a wound, still more severe, was inflicted on
+the feelings, by some of the purchasers selecting only such as their
+judgment led them to prefer, regardless of the bonds of nature! The
+urgent appeals of friendship and attachment were unheeded; sighs and
+tears made no impression; and all the imploring looks, and penetrating
+expressions of grief were unavailing. Hungry commerce corroded even the
+golden chains of affection; and sordid interest burst every tie of the
+heart asunder. The husband was taken from the wife, children were
+separated from their parents, and the lover was torn from his mistress:
+the companion was bought away from his friend, and the brother not
+suffered to accompany the sister.
+
+In one part of the building was seen a wife clinging to her husband, and
+beseeching, in the strongest eloquence of nature, not to be left behind
+him. Here was a sister hanging upon the neck of her brother, and, with
+tears, intreating to be led to the same home of captivity. There stood
+two brothers, enfolded in each other’s arms, mutually bewailing their
+threatened separation. In other parts were friends, relatives, and
+companions, praying to be sold to the same master; using signs to
+signify that they would be content with slavery, might they but toil
+together.
+
+Silent tears, deep sighs, and heavy lamentations proved the bitter
+suffering of these poor blacks, and told that nature was ever true to
+her feelings. Never was a scene more distressful. Among these unhappy,
+degraded Africans scarcely an unclouded countenance could be seen. Every
+feature was veiled in the gloom of woe; and their grief was poured forth
+in all the sadness of affliction.
+
+A host of painful ideas rushed into my mind at the moment; and all the
+distorted images of this abhorrent traffic presented themselves to my
+recollection. The many horrors and cruelties, which I had so often heard
+of, appeared in their worst shapes before me; and my imagination was
+acutely alive to the unmerited punishment sometimes inflicted, the
+incessant labour exacted, the want of freedom, and all the catalogue of
+hardships endured by slaves. I endeavoured to combat the effect of these
+impressions by directing my mind to opposite images. The kind treatment
+of negroes under humane masters occurred to me; I recollected the
+comfort and harmony of the slaves I had lately seen at “Profit.” I
+contemplated their exemption from care, and the many anxieties of the
+world; and I remembered the happiness and contentment expressed in their
+songs and merry dances: but all in vain! The repugnant influence would
+not thus be cheated. With such distress before my eyes, all palliatives
+were unavailing. The whole was wrong, and not to be justified. I felt
+that I execrated every principle of the traffic. Nature revolted at it;
+and I condemned the whole system of slavery under all its forms and
+modifications.
+
+When purchased, the slaves were marked by placing a bit of string, or of
+red or white tape round their arms or necks. One gentleman, who bought a
+considerable number of them, was proceeding to distinguish those he had
+selected, by tying a piece of red tape round the neck; when I observed
+two negroes, who were standing together entwined in each other’s arms,
+watch him with great anxiety. Presently he approached them, and, after
+making his examination, affixed the mark only to one of them. The other,
+with a look of unerring expression, and with an impulse of marked
+disappointment, cast his eyes up to the purchaser, seeming to say——“And
+will you not have me, too?” then jumped, and danced, and stamped with
+his feet, and made other signs to denote that he, also, was sound and
+strong, and worthy his choice. He was, nevertheless, passed by
+unregarded; upon which he turned to his companion, his friend, brother,
+whichever he was, took him to his bosom, hung upon him, and, in
+sorrowful countenance, expressed the strongest marks of affliction. The
+feeling was mutual: it arose from reciprocal affection: his friend
+participated in his grief, and they both wept bitterly. Soon afterwards,
+on looking round to complete his purchase, the planter, again, passed
+that way, and not finding any one that better suited his purpose, he
+hung the token of choice round the neck of the negro whom he had before
+disregarded. All the powers of art could not have effected the change
+that followed. More genuine joy was never expressed. His eye became
+enlivened: grief and sadness vanished, and flying into the arms of his
+friend, he caressed him with rapture, then skipped, and jumped, and
+danced about, exhibiting all the purest signs of mirth and
+gratification. His companion was not less delighted, and a more pure and
+native sympathy was never exhibited. Happy in being reassociated, they
+now retired apart from the crowd, and sat down, in quiet contentment,
+hugging and kissing the red signal of bondage, like two attached and
+affectionate brothers—satisfied to toil out their days, for an unknown
+master, so they might but travel their journey of slavery together.
+
+In the afternoon of the same day I chanced to be present when another
+gentleman came to purchase some of the slaves, who were not sold in the
+morning. After looking through the lot, he remarked that he did not see
+any who were of pleasant aspect; and going on to make further
+objections, respecting their appearance, he was interrupted by the
+vendor, who observed that, at that moment, they were seen to great
+disadvantage, as they looked worse, “_from having lost their friends and
+associates in the morning_.” Ay, truly, I could have replied—a very
+powerful reason why they are unfit for sale this afternoon! If to be of
+smiling visage were necessary to their being sold, it were politic not
+to expose them for long to come. Still, some were selected, and the mark
+of purchase being made, the distressful scene of the morning was, in a
+degree, repeated.
+
+Only a few of the most ill-looking now remained, who were meager, and of
+rough skin; not thoroughly black, but of a yellowish, or dirty brown
+colour; of hungry, unhealthy aspect, feeble, of hideous countenance,
+and, in general appearance, scarcely human. These remained to a future
+day, and would, probably, be sold, not to the planters, but to the
+boat-women, tailors, hucksters, or some of the inferior mechanics, or
+shopkeepers of the town, at a price somewhat lower than that demanded
+for the more robust, and well-looking; and, alas! though least able to
+bear fatigue, these feeble beings would be subjected to a far more heavy
+slavery than those of stronger frame; for it is, commonly, seen that the
+labour exacted by the poorer orders of people, from their few and weakly
+slaves, is more severe than that required by the opulent planter from
+his regular, and better-appointed gang.
+
+We find it extremely difficult to procure a sufficient number of workmen
+and labourers, in this colony, for the services required. Although the
+wages are extravagantly high, an extraordinary number of hands, for any
+emergency, cannot be obtained, without having recourse to a system of
+coercion.
+
+A few days since a soldier was admitted into the hospital with the
+direful malady of the country, called “yellow fever.” The disease had
+made great progress before he was brought to us, and he died on the
+sixth day after his admission. The body was examined, with a view to
+ascertain the changes produced by the disease, but the appearances were
+not precisely such, as from conversing with the colonial practitioners,
+and reading a variety of authors, we had been led to expect. The stomach
+was found to be the organ which exhibited the strongest marks of
+derangement. The inner coat was surcharged with blood, appearing very
+red, and at one spot near the upper orifice it was of a livid hue, and
+its texture so weakened, that the finger was passed through it, by only
+a slight degree of pressure.
+
+The name commonly given to this disorder seems to be highly inaccurate.
+Our patient, although several days ill, had no yellowness of the skin,
+until a few hours before he died. If, therefore, his dissolution had
+occurred only a short time sooner; or if he had recovered previous to
+the period when this change of colour took place, we could not, with any
+correctness, have called the fever he had suffered a _yellow_ fever,
+although he had undergone all the characteristic symptoms of the disease
+so termed, except the casual one from which it has been improperly
+named. Moreover, affixing to a disease a name derived from a symptom,
+and particularly a symptom which is not always present, is calculated to
+deceive, and may be of dangerous tendency, by rendering the practitioner
+unsuspicious of the real nature of the disorder, until it be too late to
+arrest its destructive progress.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XLII.
+
+
+ Demarara, May 16.
+
+Since I last addressed you I have experienced a sad disappointment, in
+having to make my congé to the general, on his return to the islands.
+After all my expectations of being soon at St. Domingo, I am left behind
+with instructions to continue in the direction of the medical department
+of these colonies, until our detachment shall be relieved from the staff
+of the Charibbee Islands.
+
+Instead of my being permitted to proceed to head quarters, it is found
+requisite that the branch of the hospital staff, serving here, should be
+augmented. I have made out a return of the medical establishment, which
+seems necessary for these colonies, and still hope that we may soon be
+relieved, and allowed to proceed to our original destination.
+
+In consequence of the sick list becoming numerous, we are compelled to
+employ the medical officers of the regiments in the duties of the
+general hospital.
+
+I have great pleasure in remarking to you, that General Whyte has been
+particularly attentive to the comfort of the sick, and the accommodation
+of the hospital department. In every thing proposed for the benefit of
+the suffering soldiers, we have always been happy enough to meet with
+his full and ready acquiescence. It has only been necessary to point out
+what was required, and every attention was immediately given to the
+representation. You will believe that this has been highly gratifying to
+me, and the more so, when I add that the measures proposed have not been
+indifferently acceded to, but examined with a degree of attentive
+consideration, not less honorable to the general than satisfactory to
+myself.
+
+It is also with much pleasure that I am enabled to add that Colonel
+Hislop, who succeeds to the command, is a man of great humanity and
+benevolence, and that we have every prospect of finding him desirous to
+follow a good example in promoting the comfort and well-being of those
+who are in sickness.
+
+Before he left us, General Whyte gave orders that a large cotton logis
+at La Bourgade should be fitted up as an hospital, and that a house near
+to it should be appropriated to the use of the medical officers. Thus
+have we the satisfaction of seeing the sick, and the whole of the
+department, very conveniently accommodated; the patients being lodged in
+a spacious and well-aired building; and their attendants having
+commodious quarters immediately near to them, with proper offices, and
+what is of consequence in this climate, a large cistern for fresh water
+adjoining.
+
+Here we are stationed, as a distinct department, quiet, and secluded,
+free from the noise and hurry both of the town and the fort, and nearly
+equidistant from the one and the other. The public road, from the fort
+to the town, passes close by the gates; and within less than a hundred
+yards from the road is the sea, or rather the opening of the river, so
+that the sick are readily brought to us on either side, by land, or by
+water. Perhaps another situation, equally commodious for the purposes of
+the medical department, could not have been found in the colony.
+
+I have already changed my quarters from Stabroek to our new home at La
+Bourgade; but it does not seem probable that I shall long remain
+stationary, for I have received instructions to proceed to the colony of
+Berbische, to make arrangements for the hospitals there, as soon as I
+shall have brought these at La Bourgade into a proper establishment.
+
+I now suffer considerably from the “prickly heat,” but this would be
+very supportable were it not for the still greater torment of
+musquitoes, ants, centipedes, jack-spaniards[10], and the multitudes of
+other insects biting, buzzing about our ears, crawling upon every thing
+we touch, and as it were filling and vivifying the whole atmosphere
+around us.
+
+As I am to note all occurrences, I must not omit the following, although
+it may seem to border upon the incredible. A few days ago I was applied
+to by the wife of a colonist to request that I would _make some
+complaint_ to her husband, against the slaves of the house, very
+_humanely_ urging as a reason for imposing upon me so _grateful_ a task,
+that she wished “_to get them a good flogging_!” I trust that neither
+you, nor any of our fair friends, on the European shore of the Atlantic,
+will condemn my want of gallantry in resisting the solicitation. It was
+not even contended that any specific fault had been committed to justify
+the punishment, but this was _to be invented_, and merely because some
+idle whim, some fit of caprice, or ill humour had led the mistress, of
+these poor slaves to wish them “_a good flogging_!”
+
+You have probably read that in the woods of these colonies there are
+numbers of men called “Bush-negroes.” These are mostly runaway slaves
+who have revolted from their masters, and having collected together in
+the forest, have there formed themselves into bodies, under certain
+captains or leaders; and have established various habitations and
+encampments in the thickest parts of what is termed “the Bush;” where
+they now live in all the bad habits of savage nature; and are become
+mere hordes of brigands or marauders.
+
+They are negroes of the worst description, cruel, blood-thirsty and
+revengeful: men whose crimes in European, and all well-ordered states,
+would have been punished with death. Many have murdered white
+inhabitants, massacred their masters, or revolted in combination,
+plotting the destruction of the planters, in order to take the colony
+into their own possession; but being frustrated in their designs, have
+saved themselves from punishment, by flying into the hidden recesses of
+the forest; from whence they issue only to ravage and plunder.
+
+They had subjected themselves to a sort of regular discipline under
+their captains and lieutenants, and the lower orders of them (for there
+are distinctions even among runaway slaves) were compelled to toil in
+the night, by going out of the woods, in parties, to steal plantains and
+other provisions from the estates; but the labour to which they were
+exposed, by this night duty, was so much more severe than that required
+of them, in their common round, as slaves upon the plantations, that
+some of them have been known to desert back from the woods, and return
+to a state of slavery, after having fled from their masters to live in
+idleness, as they had expected, with their brethren in “the Bush.”
+
+I wish I could repeat to you, as eloquently as I heard it related, the
+very interesting detail of an expedition sent into the woods against
+these Bush-negroes, last year, under the command of Major M‘Grah, and
+Captain Dougan. Many persons had been robbed, and had their property
+otherwise injured by their predatory excursions; indeed the whole colony
+was disturbed, and, from the increasing number of these sanguinary
+hordes, was threatened with eventual destruction. It was resolved
+therefore that a body of troops should be sent into the woods to search
+for their places of resort, and to endeavour to subdue or exterminate
+them. A party of the Dutch soldiers of the garrison was, accordingly,
+equipped for this duty; and marched in due military order into the
+forest.
+
+But this was not the species of force calculated for such an enterprise:
+from not having observed all the minute precautions required, in this
+new and hazardous warfare, they were surprised and defeated by the
+blacks; and very few of the soldiers escaped, most of them being killed,
+and their scalps, or bodies, fixed against the trees, to serve as
+examples of what others were to expect who should venture on a similar
+service[11].
+
+The government and the colonists having discovered, from fatal
+experience, that the Bush-negroes were more formidable than had been
+imagined; and finding that regular European troops were not the best
+fitted for this kind of duty, raised a corps of blacks from among the
+most faithful of the slaves; and also engaged in their interest a party
+of Indians from the woods, who, happily for the planters, hold the
+Bush-negroes in great abhorrence.
+
+Well provided and equipped, this second expedition, commanded as above
+mentioned, separated into two parties, and boldly advanced into the
+forest to form a combined attack. Upon their march they passed the dead
+bodies of the Dutch soldiers, tied to the trees at the sides of a narrow
+path. Not deterred by this horrid scene, they proceeded onward, having
+the sagacious Indians on their flanks; by whose acuteness and
+penetration they discovered the various situations, where the different
+companies of the brigands had taken up their residence, and, by
+well-concerted attacks, defeated and routed them wheresoever they met
+them. As an encouragement to the able and new-raised troops, a premium
+was offered for every right hand of a Bush-negro that should be brought
+in; and, when they returned from the woods, they appeared with seventy
+black arms displayed upon the points of their bayonets, causing a very
+singular and shocking spectacle to the beholders. Three hundred guilders
+each had been fixed as the price, but it was found necessary to reduce
+the premium, lest the slaves should kill their prisoners, or even
+destroy each other to obtain it.
+
+The exertion and fatigue required in such a movement cannot well be
+conceived by those who are accustomed only to regular and systematic
+warfare: nor is it probable that such a service could have been
+supported in this climate by European soldiers. In addition to all the
+difficulties of making their way through the unknown and almost
+impenetrable woods, they knew not where to find the enemy’s posts; and
+were, at every minute, liable to be fallen upon by surprise.
+
+At first entering the Bush, the march was continued for a great
+distance, nearly knee-deep in water: when further advanced, the troops
+had to scramble through the thickets, or follow each other, by a
+confined path, in Indian file; and, after the harassing march of the
+day, to lie down at night, on the bare ground, under the trees, the
+officers suspending their hammocks from bough to bough in the open air.
+They had, moreover, to carry the whole of their provisions, arms,
+ammunition, and every other necessary required for the success of the
+enterprise, upon their backs.
+
+But for the assistance given by the Indians, the brigands would,
+probably, never have been subdued; perhaps not found! The expertness of
+these men, in such a pursuit, is peculiar, and beyond all that could be
+imagined, by those who live in crowded society. They not only hear
+sounds in the woods, which are imperceptible to others, but judge, with
+surprising accuracy, of the distance and direction from whence they
+proceed. The position of a fallen leaf, or the bending of a bramble, too
+slight to be noticed by an European eye, conveys to them certain
+intelligence respecting the route taken by those, whom they pursue. From
+constant practice and observation, their organs of sense become highly
+improved, and they hear with an acuteness, and see with a precision
+truly surprising to those who are unacquainted with their habits, and
+their vigilance. With such guides, the corps moved in confidence, and
+was conducted with safety. Seven encampments of the brigands were
+discovered, and completely routed; some of which had existed during
+fifteen years, concealed in the profoundest gloom of the forest.
+
+The following was the mode usually observed in establishing these places
+of residence and resort. Having fixed upon the spot most convenient for
+their purpose, a circular piece of ground was cleared of its wood: in
+the centre of this, they built huts, and formed the encampment, planting
+around the buildings, oranges, bananas, plantains, yams, eddoes, and
+other kinds of provisions; thus, in addition to the trees of the forest,
+procuring themselves further concealment by the plantations which save
+them food. The eddoes were found in great plenty, and seemed to
+constitute their principal diet. Round the exterior of the circular spot
+was cut a deep and wide ditch, which, being filled with water, and
+stuck, at the sides and bottom, with sharp-pointed stakes, served as a
+formidable barrier of defence. The path across this ditch was placed two
+or three feet below the surface, and wholly concealed from the eye by
+the water being always thick and muddy. Leaves were strewed, and
+steppings, similar in their kind, made to the edges of the ditch, at
+various parts, as a precaution, to deceive any who might approach,
+respecting the real situation of the path. But the proper place of
+crossing was found out by the sagacity of the Indians, who soon
+discovered that to attempt to pass at any other part, was to be empaled
+alive.
+
+It was found that the brigands had eight of these encampments, or points
+of rendezvous in the woods, one of which is supposed still to remain
+undiscovered. After much fatigue in endeavouring to find it, the search
+was relinquished, in the idea that some of the prisoners, either by
+indulgence or torture, would be induced to make it known: but this
+expectation has only led to disappointment. All the means used have
+failed, and the prisoners, faithful to their cause, have suffered
+torture and death without betraying their forest-associates.
+
+The cruel severities inflicted upon these miserable blacks have been
+such as you will scarcely believe could have been practised by any
+well-ordered government: for, however strongly punishment was merited,
+the refinement of torture, with which it was employed, ought never to
+have been tolerated in any state professing to be civilized. Humanity
+shudders at the bare recital of it.
+
+Most of the ringleaders were taken, and brought to Stabroek, where they
+were afterwards tried and executed, the majority of them suffering with
+a degree of fortitude and heroism worthy a better cause. One in
+particular, named Amsterdam, supported the extreme of punishment with a
+firmness truly astonishing. He was subjected to the most shocking
+torture, in the hope of compelling him to give information regarding the
+remaining encampment—but in vain! He despised the severest suffering,
+and nothing could induce him to betray his late companions, or to make
+known their yet undiscovered retreat.
+
+He was sentenced to be burnt alive, first having his flesh torn from his
+limbs with red-hot pincers; and in order to render his punishment still
+more terrible, he was compelled to sit by, and see thirteen others
+broken upon the wheel and hung; and then, in being conducted to
+execution, was made to walk over the thirteen dead bodies of his
+comrades. Being fastened to an iron stake, surrounded with the consuming
+pile, which was about to be illumined, he regarded the by-standers with
+all the complacency of heroic fortitude, and exhibiting the most
+unyielding courage, resolved that all the torture ingenuity or cruelty
+might invent should not extort from him a single groan; or a syllable
+that could in any way impeach his friends.
+
+With the first pair of pincers, the executioner tore the flesh from one
+of his arms. The sudden infliction of pain caused him to recede, in a
+slight degree, from the irons; and he drew in his breath, as if to form
+it into a sigh, but he instantly recovered himself—his countenance
+indicated self-reproach, and he manifestly took shame for having
+betrayed even the slightest sense of suffering; then, resuming more, if
+possible, than his former composure, he patiently waited the approach of
+the next irons, and, on these being brought towards him, he steadfastly
+cast his eye upon them, inclined a little forward, and with an unshaken
+firmness of countenance, deliberately met their burning grasp! From that
+moment he showed himself capable of despising the severest pain. Not a
+feature was afterwards disturbed, and he preserved a degree of
+tranquillity implying absolute contempt of torture and of death.
+
+Finally, when the destructive pile was set in flames, his body spun
+round the iron stake, with the mouth open, until his head fell back, and
+life was extinguished. I am told, by a gentleman who had the melancholy
+task to attend the execution, that the most horrid stench continued for
+many hours, to issue from the roasting body, and was extremely offensive
+throughout the town, penetrating so strongly into the houses to leeward,
+as to make many persons sick, and prevent them from taking food during
+the remainder of the day.
+
+Another of the chiefs, or captains, who was taken, is still in
+confinement at the fort, under sentence of death. His execution has been
+delayed in the hope of learning, from him, the situation of the yet
+remaining encampment; but, hitherto, to no purpose; and from his present
+conduct, it may be expected that he will die as firm and dauntless as
+his comrade Amsterdam.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XLIII.
+
+
+ La Bourgade, May 21.
+
+I have already informed you that the barrack allotted to the medical
+officers is a very commodious house, situated near to the hospital; but
+I gave no account of the furniture; nor did I describe what we here
+esteem a comfortable dwelling. Let me, therefore, tell you that our
+mansion is built wholly of wood, and is of the simplest construction.
+Being set upon low pillars, it is so raised from the ground as to leave
+sufficient space for dogs and small pigs to pass under it. Chimnies and
+fire-places are not required. The windows are mere holes in the sides,
+and are neither closed with plate glass, nor well-fitted sashes, but
+hung with heavy shutters on the outside, to protect us in time of rain.
+No fine stucco covers the walls, nor are the rooms hung with rich paper
+or tapestry. No painted cloth, or soft carpet spreads the floor, nor do
+any rich cornices, or figured compositions decorate the ceiling. Above,
+below, and at the sides, all is plain wood: the walls, the ceilings, and
+the floors are alike of naked boards; many of them so loosely joined
+together as to allow free admission to air and light. Sitting in the
+parlour, we see through the openings into the bed-room above; and to the
+pigs routing below. The roof is also of wood, and open to the
+bed-chambers, which are hung only with the well-spun tapestry of
+industrious spiders. An old bench, or form, with three or four chairs of
+rough wood, and a coarse deal board, laid upon a pair of cross legs by
+way of a table, complete the furniture.
+
+Thus accommodated, you will be amused to hear that we have had company
+to visit us at our dinner-table: a party from one of his majesty’s ships
+of war, who were led, by curiosity, to see how the “_soldier-officers_”
+were accommodated on shore. They did not express themselves violently
+envious of our comforts; but were much diverted in forming conjectures
+as to what might have been the remarks of some of our foppish friends in
+London, could they have glanced an eye upon our humble banquet, and the
+general order of our _manege_. A piece of hard salt beef graced one end
+of the table, a heavy lump of salt pork the other, and salt-meat soup
+supplied the place of the rich _plateau_ in the middle. Such is our
+daily repast, and such was our feast; for we gave to our visitors the
+most sumptuous fare of the larder. Fresh animal provisions are dainties
+we can seldom procure, and if it were not for the daily allowance dealt
+out to us by government, we should be confined to a diet of yams and
+plantains, like the slaves. During the passage from England, and while
+we were lying at Barbadoes, we disregarded our salt allowance; nor did
+we, till now, duly estimate the value of a government ration; but it is
+here become of the greatest importance, and forms, to us, as well as to
+the soldiers, the principal supply.
+
+We often despatch negroes to the distant plantations upon the coast, or
+the borders of the river, in search of fowls, ducks, roasting pigs, or
+any other fresh provisions; but they so commonly return empty-handed,
+that we have been led to suspect them of idleness or neglect, and have
+been induced to make the experiment ourselves, by going in a boat to
+different estates up the river, with a view of purchasing poultry or
+other stock. But we have been equally unsuccessful; sometimes failing
+altogether, and at others procuring only a single chicken, or a sucking
+pig to serve a mess of six persons for the week. It happened once that
+we met with a whole litter of young roasters to the number of six, when
+we thought ourselves in high good fortune; but as we had no convenient
+means of keeping them fat or in condition, we were unable to economize
+the use of them, and from eating pig every day till they were all
+consumed, we became so entirely satiated with this kind of food, as to
+make it doubtful whether we shall ever be able to enjoy it again.
+
+Beef, veal, and mutton are luxuries beyond our reach. This settlement
+does not supply them in sufficient quantity for the ordinary
+consumption; we do not therefore expect them, except by way of an
+occasional feast. The great additional demand for fresh provisions,
+since our arrival, has likewise taken off all the surplus of smaller
+stock, and left scarcely a spare duck, or chicken in the colony.
+
+In one of our provision-hunting excursions to the western coast, we had
+the good fortune to meet with Captain Dougan, whom we found to be
+residing there, in command of the remnant of the black corps, which was
+raised last year for the expedition against the Bush-negroes. From this
+gentleman we experienced every mark of polite and friendly attention. In
+our conversation we discovered that he was the son of the gentleman whom
+I had seen at “Profit;” and, on his learning that I had visited his
+father, we became at once as intimate as old acquaintances. But this was
+not required to call forth the captain’s hospitality, for he had
+previously insisted upon our dining, and passing the remainder of the
+day with him; which we did, and he gave us an excellent dinner, with
+plenty of good wines, and a most cordial welcome. Cassada cake and
+roasted plantains were served instead of bread, and with our fowls we
+had a sauce prepared from the cassada juice, which loses its poisonous
+quality by boiling and evaporation, and becomes somewhat like the
+essence used under the name of soy.
+
+On taking our leave, in the evening, we received many polite and liberal
+invitations to repeat our visit; had our boat loaded with fruit, and
+were desired to send for a further supply whenever it might be
+acceptable. The estate was rich in oranges and plantains, beyond all we
+had visited; and so universally were the fields intersected with rows of
+fruit-trees, that whichever path we pursued, the eye looked down a fine
+avenue, loaded and yellow with fruit.
+
+You will be pleased to hear that although we are still sadly annoyed
+with musquitoes during the day and the evening, our nights are passed,
+at our new home, in quiet and comfort. In Carlisle Bay, and at Stabroek,
+notwithstanding I slept with the door and windows open, I always felt
+heated and restless in bed; and, too commonly, rose with a painful and
+spotted skin in the morning. At La Bourgade I am free from these
+inconveniences. I lie upon a hard mattress, without any bedding under
+it, covered only with a thin cotton sheet, and protected by my friendly
+musquito curtain. Even with the door and windows shut, I can remain
+without feeling myself unpleasantly heated; and, surrounded with my
+netting, I can regard the hosts of musquitoes and other insects, buzzing
+about me, without the fear of their disturbing my repose.
+
+From the situation of these colonies with respect to the sun and the
+ocean, and from the territory being a continued flat, we are scarcely
+ever without a free and steady breeze, which creates an equable
+temperature, and renders the climate peculiarly uniform. At six in the
+morning the thermometer is usually between 74 and 77 degrees, and at
+noon it has seldom varied more than from 81 to 84. It being now the wet
+season, much rain commonly falls during the night; and, frequently, very
+heavy showers in the course of the day; such as quickly find their way
+through all the garments of those who happen to be exposed to them: the
+most violent thunder-storms of England are scarcely sufficient to give
+you an idea of their force and rapidity.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XLIV.
+
+
+ Demarara, May 25.
+
+The hospital at La Bourgade being now established, and placed under
+proper regulations for the accommodation of the sick, I shall proceed,
+without delay, to the settlement of Berbische in order to make the
+necessary hospital arrangements for that colony.
+
+With grief I find that we are likely to have an ample opportunity of
+prosecuting our inquiries respecting the state of the viscera after
+yellow fever: but, that we may not be deceived by appearances, we
+purpose, likewise, to examine the bodies of those who may be destroyed
+by other maladies, whereby we shall be enabled to judge more accurately
+what are the real changes induced by that disease.
+
+Among the late sufferers we have had the misfortune to lose our
+superintending cook, at the hospital. He was a man of peculiar strength,
+voice, and appetite. The sick on board ship used to complain that he ate
+up almost the whole of their food: when he spake, his voice was as the
+roaring of thunder; and in point of muscular strength, he was quite
+Herculean. The attack was severe, and he quickly fell a sacrifice,
+experiencing all the inveterate symptoms of the fever, with the
+exception only, of the yellowness of the skin,—that uncertain mark from
+which the name of the disease has been, erroneously, taken. The disorder
+was early marked with uncommon restlessness and anxiety, an
+indescribable sensation at the region of the stomach, and an almost
+incessant vomiting of a black fluid resembling the grounds of coffee.
+
+Among the distressful scenes it has lately been my lot to witness, I
+chanced to be at Stabroek a few mornings ago, at the time of the
+execution of the captain of the Bush-negroes whom I mentioned to you in
+a former letter. He died faithful to his cause, and no information could
+be obtained from him regarding the encampment said to be still remaining
+in the woods. He was sentenced to be suspended by the neck for a short
+time, and then taken down, while yet alive, to have his head severed
+from his body. The executioner was a negro, who, without any feelings of
+compunction, or of sorrow for his countryman, exulted in the adroitness
+with which he took off the head at a single blow.
+
+After the execution I sat a short time with the officers, at the barrack
+of the 99th regiment; when another painful scene was exhibited to our
+observation, in the flogging of a party of negroes, before the fiscal’s
+door, upon the public street.
+
+On one of them being released from the stakes, to which he had been tied
+down, with his face to the earth, during his punishment, I thought that
+I recognised his features, and upon going out to ascertain the fact,
+discovered him to be one of the carpenters, who had been set apart to
+work, under my direction, at the hospital. It happened, too, that he had
+distinguished himself by his industry, and was the man with whom I had
+most conversed, on account of his speaking English, and being able to
+explain my instructions to his fellow-workmen.
+
+You will believe that I felt an interest regarding him, and that I was
+anxious to learn by what offence he had brought upon himself the severe
+punishment which we had witnessed. To this end, in company with Major
+Say and other officers, I followed the bleeding slave to his home, where
+we learned that the alleged crime, for which he had been punished,
+was—striking a white man; although, in fact, it appeared to have been a
+refusal to get up from his bed, at 9 o’clock at night, to work for an
+European inhabitant of the town, after labouring at the hospital during
+the whole of the day. It was further hinted by those about him, that
+something of pique or prejudice, on account of the poor man expressing
+himself pleased with his employment at the British hospital, might
+possibly have operated in deafening the ear of justice against him.
+
+A Dutchman who chanced to be present at the time we were making
+inquiries, in the carpenter’s shop to which the negro belonged, told us,
+with an air of confidence, that he had been punished for striking _him_,
+and cutting his elbow with a _large chisel_; showing us the very
+instrument with which the wound had been made, and the precise spot
+whereon the offence had been committed, at the same time exhibiting his
+arm supported in a sling. All this being so circumstantially stated,
+four of us, Major Say, the surgeon of the 99th, another officer and
+myself, begged to see this frightful wound which had been cut in the
+elbow: some objections were offered, on the ground of disturbing the
+dressings, unsewing the bandages and the like: but as Mr. Blackader
+promised to replace all these in fit order, we persisted in the request;
+and the Dutchman finding that we were urgent, and rather inclined to be
+peremptory, at length submitted: but the coat was said to fit
+inconveniently tight; the shirt sleeve to be tied in a hard knot; and
+other little difficulties and delays were thrown in the way. Still we
+determined to subdue them all; and when, at last, we succeeded, lo!
+instead of the many bandages, and complex dressings which we had been
+taught to expect, we could neither find a plaster, nor the wound.
+Instead of a deep cut from a chisel, a slight bruise only appeared upon
+the elbow, the skin being neither cut, nor broken. This strengthened our
+suspicions that the slave had been unfairly treated; and by prosecuting
+the inquiry we learned the following history.
+
+The Dutchman had gone to the carpenter’s shop in the evening in search
+of a carpenter to do some work at a house in the town; and finding this
+negro sleeping in the room over the workshop, ordered him to get up and
+accompany him. The poor fellow pleaded that it was night, that he had
+toiled through the whole of the day, and further that he was directed,
+by the commandant, to work only at the hospital, until that was
+completed. The Dutchman, nevertheless, insisted upon his going. The
+slave unhappily refused. Words ensued; and the white man, seizing the
+black by the hair of his head, dragged him down into the workshop;
+where, in the scuffle, the Dutchman happened to receive a bruise of the
+elbow.
+
+The following morning a complaint was made to a public officer, high in
+power, stating that the negro had struck the Dutchman, and wounded him;
+and it being an offence utterly unpardonable for a black man, under any
+circumstances, to lift his hand against a white one, the miserable slave
+was sentenced, without further inquiry, to receive the punishment we had
+witnessed.
+
+We could not feel satisfied that the proceedings had been conducted with
+a due regard to justice, we therefore waited upon the person who had
+decreed the punishment, to inquire more into the merits of the case; and
+were told by him, that the negro had been punished “for striking a white
+man, with a _heavy stick_, and a _large nail_ in it, and therewith
+cutting a deep wound in his elbow.” As this account differed from that
+of the Dutchman himself, we asked this man of power, if the sentence had
+been pronounced barely upon the man’s own report. Certainly not, he
+replied; the deposition was also sanctioned by the testimony of _four
+respectable_ witnesses who appeared in evidence, having seen the negro
+strike the white man with the _great stick_ with a _great nail_ in it.
+
+We then used the freedom of asking if he had taken the trouble to look
+at this wounded elbow _himself_. He had, he said, “and a sad cut it
+was.” If we had not been stricken dumb with the reply, we might have
+exclaimed, “Alas! unhappy blacks! what hope have ye of justice, if not
+only private, but also public punishments be thus awarded?”
+
+As soon as our surprise and indignation would permit, we informed this
+_man of equity_ that four of us had minutely examined this frightful cut
+of the elbow, and that, with all our eight eyes strained as wide as they
+could stare, we had not even been able to discover the wound; adding,
+for his further information, that the Dutchman had, himself, assured us
+that it was cut with a large chisel: but that, in fact, it had neither
+been cut with a chisel, nor with a nail in a stick, nor cut at all;
+being only a slight bruise which had probably happened in the struggle,
+when the Dutchman was pulling about the negro by the hair of his head.
+We also ventured to add that the whole tale of this mighty wound was a
+scandalous imposition; and the punishment which had been inflicted upon
+the negro a gross injustice. We then appealed to this arbitrary guardian
+of the laws, very earnestly demanding whether, in justice to the injured
+negro, to the public, and to himself, who had been thus imposed upon, he
+would not feel it incumbent upon him to institute an inquiry regarding
+the fact, and to have the cruel wretch, and his four perjured witnesses,
+severely punished! Of course we made no remark upon his having seen the
+sad cut in the elbow _with his own eyes_! Whether from feeling himself
+implicated, or from a reluctance arising out of any other cause, this
+great officer of _justice_ did not seem to be of accord with our
+sentiments upon the subject; but endeavoured to divert us from the
+question by expatiating upon the paramount necessity of holding slaves
+in subjection, and the great danger and impolicy of overlooking, in any
+instance, the crime of their lifting the hand against a white man. We
+readily conceded to him that, upon the present system, it was absolutely
+necessary to be tenacious of the privileges assumed, but we could never
+agree that it was either just or wise, to punish an unprotected man upon
+the false accusation of a set of perjured wretches, merely because
+Nature had covered him with a dark skin, and them with fair ones; nor
+that it was fit not to expose such wanton malice to public shame,
+whenever the falsehood and injustice of the testimony should be
+detected; therefore, pledging ourselves to appear in evidence, whenever
+called upon, we left the office obtaining a promise from this man of
+power, to institute an inquiry, and to have justice done to the poor
+injured slave!
+
+Whether our endeavours in his behalf may be crowned with success, is
+extremely doubtful, but the unhappy history of our carpenter’s
+punishment will convey to you some idea of the kind of justice to be
+expected by slaves. The alleged offender is not heard in mitigation, nor
+are any of his colour admitted in evidence, although they might be able
+wholly to disprove the charge; hence, whenever a white man is base
+enough to perjure himself in accusation, the negro can have no hope of
+escaping from punishment.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XLV.
+
+
+ Berbische, May 31.
+
+Expecting a passage of only a few hours to this colony, I left Demarara
+the day after writing to you my last letter, in a small vessel which I
+had not seen previous to embarking in her, and which offered no
+accommodation but that of being bound direct to the place of my
+destination. This, indeed, seemed to be all that was required, for I was
+assured both on shore, and when I arrived on board, that, in less than
+twenty-four hours, we should be at Berbische. But, in consequence of a
+multitude of adverse circumstances, this short passage became sadly
+tedious and extended; and in many respects, the most comfortless and
+disagreeable that I have known. Instead of a few hours only, we were
+four long days at sea. A minute detail of the progress of each
+successive day would be as tiresome to you as the voyage has been to me:
+yet, to say, merely, that we were four days going only a few leagues,
+would convey to you no idea of the extreme discomfort, and the
+multiplied annoyances to which I was exposed. Let me, therefore, give
+you some of the particulars.
+
+At eight o’clock on the morning of the 26th inst. I embarked on board
+the above sloop to proceed from Fort William Frederic, at the mouth of
+the Demarara river, to Fort St. Andrew, at the entrance of the river
+Berbische. The vessel was employed by the Commissariat, to convey stores
+and provisions to the garrison. She was named Voltigeur.
+
+Quite unexpectedly I met with five other passengers, to all of whom I
+was an entire stranger. I thought myself fortunate in having procured
+three small chickens, and a salted pig’s face, with some fruit and
+vegetables, as my share of stock for the voyage; and which, I was told
+by my friends on shore, who had often made the passage, was an ample
+supply, it being probable that I should not have to remain more than a
+single day on board. The other gentlemen, having more confidence, than
+myself, in the wind, the sea, and the Voltigeur, had embarked without
+provisions or stores of any kind.
+
+The anchor was weighing when I reached the vessel: as usual, my head
+became sensible of the sea-motion before we had passed out of the river,
+and my stomach sympathizing, a violent sickness seized me, which
+compelled me to hasten to bed.
+
+Till now I had taken no thought regarding either cabin or couch, the
+shortness of the voyage, and the warm and steady temperature of the
+climate had superseded all concern respecting a birth for the night. But
+I now discovered that to sit up was impossible, the severity of the
+retching being altogether insupportable, and, as the sloop offered no
+protecting shade, to lie down upon the deck, exposed to the full power
+of a burning sun, was to invite almost certain disease.
+
+Under these circumstances I was driven to seek shelter in the cabin,
+such as it might chance to be: for this purpose, I was conducted to a
+kind of trap-door in the quarter-deck, called a hatchway; and, the hatch
+being lifted off, a dark hole below was pointed out to me as the cabin,
+and the only place where I could recline my aching head, or hope relief
+for my sickened stomach. Subdued by the depressing languor of nausea, I
+was too ill to hesitate: to lie down was my only care! and, unassisted
+by stairs or ladder, I dropped myself, by means of my trembling arms,
+through the opening, into this murky cell. My feet were quickly arrested
+by the old chests, and other lumber scattered about this filthy place,
+which was not of sufficient depth to admit of my standing upright,
+without being half out at the hatchway; neither was there room to sit
+down, nor a chair, or stool to rest upon; hence it only remained to me
+to crawl upon my hands and knees, feeling my way, over the loose chests
+and barrels to the farthest extent of the cabin, and there throw myself
+into a wooden birth fixed at the side; which I found too short to admit
+of the full extension of my person, and too near the planks of the deck
+above, to allow of my remaining in any but an extended posture.
+
+At a moment when the sickness had a little subsided, a sailor with a
+light in his hand, dropped through the hatchway by which I had
+descended. It would be impossible to describe the sensations I
+experienced upon discovering the scene which now opened to me. The
+execrable nest in which I was lying was not simply crowded and confined,
+beyond all that the annoyances which I had felt had led me to suspect;
+it was a _tout ensemble_ of nastiness, that defies all description.
+Words can convey to you but a faint idea of the dirty and abominable
+place, in which, for four long days, sick and without food, I had to
+live.
+
+This horrid cell, called a cabin, was only six feet long, seven wide,
+and four in depth; and was further contracted to less than half its
+dimensions, by the loose old chests, and worm-eaten coffers standing on
+the dock below; the thick sheets of cobwebs suspended from the deck
+above; and the crowd of filthy ornaments hanging on all sides. To sit or
+to stand up appeared impossible; scarcely, indeed, was there room to lie
+down, or to breathe. Not only was I shocked to see the noxious den I was
+in, but was puzzled to conjecture how I could have steered my passage to
+the birth, where I was lying. Both the entrance to the cabin, and the
+path by which I had travelled to my couch were such as I could only have
+passed during the insensibility of a severe fit of nausea. Descending
+from the hole above, I must have alighted upon a heap of unfixed trunks
+and coffers, at the risk of my legs being jammed between them; then I
+had to crawl, upon my hands and knees, over the old unsteady lumber,
+breaking my way through filth-thickened cobwebs, at the hazard of being
+entangled in the strong net-work of gigantic spiders, whose labours had
+known no interruption since the building of the sloop; and who, by
+constant toil, had manufactured sheets of cordage of almost sufficient
+strength to work it. But when compared to the many other offensive
+things which filled the place, these dirty hangings might be regarded as
+the rich tapestry of the apartment.
+
+At each side of this dark abode was a fixed sleeping birth, which was
+narrow, short, and dirty. The centre was filled with barrels, tubs, old
+sea chests, greasy coffers, and other lumber. At one end stood a tub of
+stinking salt meat; at the other, one with rotten potatoes, and pots of
+rancid butter. The cabin was the general receptacle—the store-house,
+cellar, pantry, and larder of the vessel. Under the births, saluting the
+noses of those lying in them, were filthy worm-eaten chests, filled with
+long-worn apparel, and other high-essenced contents. One was set apart
+for dirty knives and forks, unwashed plates, basins, and dishes; another
+for the odorous remains of yesterday’s dinner. In one corner stood a bag
+of musty biscuit, in another hung an old grease-thickened lantern.
+Hand-spikes, marline-spikes, swabs, a shattered mouldy case with a
+compass, a worm-eaten ditto with a quadrant, two or three broken fishing
+lines, a battered speaking trumpet, and a variety of other implements,
+hung, or strewed about, added to the furniture of the apartment.
+
+But worst of all were the poisonous long-used blankets of the sleeping
+births; and the myriads of insects and vermin crawling about, and making
+a public highway of my body. Rats and mice, cockroaches, musquitoes,
+fleas, and ants formed only a part of the catalogue.
+
+You will believe that on discovering how I was placed, I lost no time in
+attempting my escape from this wretched place. But, on rising, a violent
+and enfeebling sickness again seized me, and, from the causes I have
+mentioned, it was impossible to remain upon deck; I therefore made the
+experiment of standing in the hatchway, with my head through the
+opening, so as to catch the passing breeze; but the intense heat from
+the perpendicular rays of the sun, and the death-like nausea and
+incessant retching, produced by the erect posture, soon chased me from
+this wholesome station, and left me only a choice of evils; either to
+extend myself upon deck, exposed to burning heat, and the risk of being
+rolled overboard into the sea; or, again, to throw myself into a deadly
+hole, threatened with a poisonous suffocation, and the danger of being
+devoured by vermin.
+
+In this dilemma—viewing it as the lesser evil, I, at length, resolved to
+return to the manifold ills of the cabin; but remained at the hatchway,
+supporting a degree of sickness which almost inverted my stomach, while
+one of the sailors removed the blankets, and other offensive things,
+which were in the birth, and swept and scrubbed it out, in order to give
+me the bare boards as a resting-place.
+
+I now drew on a pair of thick fustian pantaloons, reaching down to my
+feet; buckled them fast in my shoes; put on a pair of strong gloves;
+covered my head and great part of my face, with my night-cap; and
+changing my coat for a loose morning gown, rolled myself up so as to
+leave scarcely more than my nose accessible; and, thus protected,
+tumbled again into the birth I had quitted, bidding defiance to the
+insects, vermin, and every annoyance around me. Luckily my senses were
+not, at this moment, very acute, for I laboured under a severe catarrh,
+which deprived me of the faculties of smelling, and tasting, and almost
+robbed me of sight. Situated as I was, all this might be considered as
+fortunate, for I was compelled to continue throughout the remainder of
+the day, either violently retching, or loathingly viewing the hateful
+and disgusting scene around me.
+
+Before evening poor old Mr. Serjeant, one of my fellow-passengers, was
+likewise seized with sickness, and compelled to seek relief by reclining
+his head in the opposite birth of the cabin. In painful sympathy we
+bewailed each other’s distress, looking with anxious hope to a less
+offensive birth upon the deck, when the sun should take his leave for
+the night.
+
+But in this expectation we were grievously disappointed. The retreat of
+the sun was succeeded by heavy torrents of rain; and instead of our
+being able to return upon deck, all the other passengers were driven
+below, crowding both the cabin and hatchway, so as to threaten us with
+the pains of suffocation. Every old chest and trunk now cracked with the
+weight of some one hastening down to escape from the wet; and, quickly,
+no less than seven or eight persons were crowded into this contracted
+hole of spiders and vermin, committing depredations upon the net-work
+hangings, in which they had long rested undisturbed. The whole host was
+thus put to flight. All the living things of the cabin seemed to be let
+loose in alarm. Numerous flocks of old spiders, overgrown cockroaches,
+rats, ants, and other travellers, ran distractedly about the births,
+kicking up their heels in our faces, and scampering over every part of
+our persons.
+
+In a state truly deplorable did we pass a long and wearisome night. My
+head throbbed with pain; the heat of the cabin was intolerable; and I
+was almost expiring from want of air. How anxiously did I wait, and how
+joyfully hail the returning dawn of day!
+
+I now contemplated a speedy escape from all the perils and annoyances of
+the execrable Voltigeur: but the term of our sufferings was not thus
+soon to close. New vexations arose, and disappointment again presented
+its thorns. An old sailor, who had been employed to take his watch at
+the helm, during the night, had sacrificed to all-subduing Morpheus, and
+steered the vessel a wrong course; by which accident we had now the
+mortification to find ourselves more distant from Berbische, than we had
+been in the evening.
+
+One of the passengers, who proved to be the owner of the vessel,
+observing my solicitude, offered me consolation, by remarking that we
+were not far distant from an estate of his, upon the coast, and assuring
+me that if the vessel should not be able to reach Berbische in the
+evening, rather than we should suffer such another night, he would take
+us all off in the boat to sleep at his house on shore. This was a
+comfort indeed, and I supported the sickness and other ills of the day,
+in the full confidence of being, one way or other, relieved from them at
+night.
+
+Our sloop proceeded in dull movement, scarcely regaining, during the
+whole of the day, the distance she had lost in the night. Evening again
+approached, and our captain saw no prospect of reaching Berbische.
+Finding this, the passengers upon deck kindly sent a message down into
+the cabin, informing me, that we were within sight of the estate, at
+which we were to sleep.
+
+But vexation and disappointment were again our lot; and no alleviating
+remission of our sufferings was allowed. It was discovered that we were
+too far from the shore to go off in the boat; moreover, that it was ebb
+tide, which rendered it impossible that we could traverse the deep bank
+of mud, which extended from the water’s edge to the land.
+
+It was next debated whether we should avail ourselves of the return of
+the tide, and of our nearer approach to the shore, at a later hour; but,
+again, our hopes were defeated, by the unexpected decline of the breeze,
+which, most provokingly, fixed us in a dead calm. Presently the evening
+closed, and it growing suddenly dark, we were compelled to abandon the
+project, and to submit to the torture of passing another night on board.
+
+As my next resource I resolved to avoid the poisonous stench and filth
+of the cabin, by pillowing my head upon the open deck until morning: but
+I found that my measure of vexation was not yet filled, for I was
+quickly chased from this well-aired couch, by the falling of heavy rain;
+and compelled to return to my nest of spiders. As the evil was without a
+remedy, I hastened below, and, keeping on my clothes and shoes, tumbled
+in again upon the bare boards.
+
+The rain continued to fall, and from all the passengers crowding into
+the cabin, as before, we were close-stowed in confined and offensive
+heat, and passed another sadly wretched night; which to me was more
+distressing than the former, on account of my cold being somewhat
+relieved, and my olfactory powers in a slight degree restored. How
+anxiously did I wish to place an additional feather in the wing of
+time—how pray, ere the night had well commenced, that morning would
+again appear!
+
+To prevent the accident of the preceding night, we had let go the
+anchor; and, without the risk of steering away from our course, remained
+near the shore until the sun protruded from the waters of the east to
+guide our path. It was now discovered that we had been lying near to the
+estate of our fellow-passenger, where it was intended we should have
+slept; it also appeared that we were only a few hours run from
+Berbische; and that, unless some new obstacle occurred, we could not
+fail to complete our voyage in the course of the day.
+
+But, unhappily, the proprietor of the sloop wished to be set on shore,
+and we could not weigh anchor until the sailors, who went off with the
+boat, should return. At seven o’clock Mr. —— took his departure from the
+vessel, carrying with him the other passengers, and leaving me to make
+the remainder of the voyage alone.
+
+It was observed, before, that these gentlemen brought no provisions on
+board; and as my scanty stock had only served the mess for a single
+dinner, we had already been reduced to the negro diet of plantains and
+water, for nearly two days. This had been, hitherto, no inconvenience to
+me, for my sickened stomach refused every kind of nourishment; but my
+greatest distress arose from the other passengers having devoured every
+morsel of my fruit, whilst I was lying sick and ill below, not leaving
+me a shaddock, or an orange, to moisten my lips, or cool my tongue.
+
+On their leaving the sloop, I earnestly intreated them not to detain the
+boat a moment after they landed, lest we should be prevented from
+reaching Berbische by night. They assured me that it should not be
+delayed an instant beyond the time necessary for sending us “some fruit,
+and some provisions for the captain’s dinner.” But, instead of the boat
+coming back, directly, we were kept waiting the whole of the day, under
+an anxiety which it were more easy to conceive, than express.
+
+The third night came on, and no boat appeared. Our situation was now
+tenfold more distressing than before. Without the men who went off with
+the boat, we had not hands enough to work the vessel. No remedy,
+therefore, remained, but to wait for them, however protracted their
+return.
+
+The poor captain, grown even more impatient than myself, became quite
+outrageous, and from no satisfactory cause explaining to his mind the
+detention of the boat, he sought not to restrain his rage, but kicked
+and stamped upon the deck, pouring forth dreadful sea oaths, in the full
+coarseness of broad Barbadian dialect, and with all the emphasis of
+unbounded execration. His curses were really tremendous. They were
+unlike all that had before met my ear; and were rendered doubly odious
+by the drawling accent in which they were pronounced.
+
+Notwithstanding my determination to meet the rough and the smooth of
+life as they shall chance to fall in my path, this I confess was a day
+of trial to my philosophy. Being without food and drink, without
+society, or any other _agrément_, I was not able to beguile the slothful
+hours, either by conversation or the pleasures of the table; and was
+even disappointed in the hope of diverting my mind, from the fatigue of
+unremitted suspense, by reading. Intending to make the trial, I begged
+of the stamping, raving captain to show me his library. Ay, exclaimed
+he, with a broad oath, that I can soon do! And, in truth, so he might;
+for it consisted only of a torn, mouldy copy of the sailor’s
+_Vade-mecum_, and the second volume of _The Tatler_, worm-eaten, and
+held together by a needleful of worsted! As I was not in humour with the
+sea, or any thing appertaining thereto, I threw aside the musty old
+guide, and sat down to tattle with Mr. Bickerstaff, hoping in his
+society to forget the cares of the moment; but still the boat—the _boat_
+annoyed me at every page, and I found it impossible to abstract my
+thoughts from the painful apprehension of passing another night on board
+the abominable Voltigeur.
+
+I remained, during the greater part of the day, upon deck; but as is
+common, at this season of the year, heavy rain again fell at night, and
+I was driven below to pass the hours of darkness amidst the filth and
+perils of my former retreat.
+
+The poor enraged captain, bidding defiance to the showers, remained
+throughout the greater part of the night swearing and stamping upon
+deck; and, in his watchful look-out for the boat, kept himself awake by
+pouring bitter curses upon the heads of those who detained it.
+
+After a sad and wearisome waiting the day again broke in at the opening
+of the cabin. Much rain had fallen during the night, but the sun smiled
+propitious through his morning robes, and seemed to offer cheerful
+greetings. With eager anxiety I sought tidings of our boat, but could
+obtain no intelligence regarding her. Neither was she arrived, nor in
+sight. The complete round of twenty-four hours had passed, since she
+left us, and we were wholly lost in conjecture what could possibly
+detain her.
+
+I now began to feel alarmed for my fellow-passengers, and became more
+anxious concerning their safety, than regarding the return of the boat.
+Something surely must have happened! The tide and the mud appeared no
+longer sufficient to explain the delay. Still had we no means of
+obtaining, nor even of seeking information, and it only remained to us
+to continue the expectations of the preceding day, rendered doubly
+solicitous from our apprehensions respecting the fate of the gentlemen
+who had left us.
+
+I made my escape very early from the cabin, and having exhausted all
+inquiries and conjectures, without discovering any possible remedy, it
+next became a question how to kill the heavy time. Already, had I
+travelled as far as _Finis_ with Isaac Bickerstaff; and had nothing
+left, in the shape of a book, but the dirty worn-out Vade-mecum:
+therefore, great as was my aversion to the sea, a seeming necessity
+drove me to separate the dirty pages of the old guide. A Dutch
+dictionary might have been as entertaining. I, nevertheless, laboured
+through latitudes and longitudes, and meridians, and altitudes, quite to
+the end; and still ... no boat appeared.
+
+I, next, resumed my tattling with Mr. Bickerstaff, pursuing our
+conversation of yesterday, until about noon, when, to the great joy of
+all on board, our long-lost boat hove in sight. Both Tatler and guide
+were instantly forgotten, and, leaping up, I asked, impulsively, if we
+had yet time to reach Berbische by night. The captain assured me that we
+had; and you will believe that we kept our eyes, steadfastly, on the
+boat, wishing her tenfold speed. At length, after an absence of
+thirty-two most tedious hours, she came safely alongside; when we
+learned that no accident had occurred; but that owing to the immense
+beds of drifted mud on the coast, and to the tide making against them,
+when they first _neared_ the shore, all the party had been kept at sea
+in the open boat, exposed to the full ardor of a vertical sun, and
+without a morsel to eat, or a drop to drink, during the whole of the
+preceding day, from seven o’clock in the morning until ten at night:
+since which the boat had been kept on shore to give rest and refreshment
+to the poor sailors, who were extremely exhausted by heat and fatigue.
+
+Thus did it appear that there were situations even more distressing than
+being confined on board the odious Voltigeur; for those who had gone off
+in the boat had been greater sufferers than myself. But I was surprised
+to find that men, who had so recently known the ills of privation, did
+not experience some feelings of sympathy towards others. Although they
+knew that we were lying waiting in sad suspense, and without food or
+drink, except some stale plantains and bad water, notwithstanding the
+boat remained on shore full twelve hours after they landed, they had not
+the consideration—the compassion, I might say, to send off either a bit,
+or a drop to the master of the vessel, whom they had kept waiting; or to
+the person whose provisions they had eaten.
+
+We could not but feel hurt at this neglect; but we recollected that they
+landed at night and in a state of fatigue and discomfort but little
+calculated to extend their concern beyond their own persons; and we
+hoped to feel it the less on account of speedily reaching the haven
+whither we were bound: but, as if the torments of this vexatious voyage
+were never to end, it was discovered when the boat reached us, that the
+tide did not serve for us to get under weigh; consequently, we were
+obliged to spend two hours of more tedious waiting than all that had
+passed, before we could open our sails to the wind. At length, the boat
+being hauled up astern, and the tide serving, we again stood out to sea;
+the captain assuring me that we had still sufficient time to reach
+Berbische by sunset. Knowing her talent for sailing, I had strong doubts
+of this; but did not deem it wise to discourage the commander by
+condemning his vessel.
+
+The wind was not in our favor, and on my first venturing to ask how we
+proceeded, I learned that we were about half a league _further from
+port_ than when we were lying at anchor. Still I was enough a sailor to
+have this explained to my satisfaction, by the observation that it was
+necessary to _stand well out_, in order to _fetch the river upon the
+next tack_. But very soon after, on attempting to _bring the vessel
+about_, new perplexities arose. The Voltigeur disobeyed the helm, and
+would not _veer to the wind_. In the sailor’s language, she would
+neither _tack nor wear_, but remained fixed like a log upon the water. I
+stood equally fixed, observing all that passed, without hazarding a
+syllable of remark; for, however bad a vessel may be, and however much
+her captain may abuse her, himself, still every commander is so
+tenacious regarding the ship under his direction, that it were treason
+for any other person to speak of her as a slow sailer.
+
+The poor captain now stamped and swore worse than ever; and I had a full
+opportunity of hearing the whole catalogue of vulgar sea oaths,
+delivered in the broadest creole dialect. He reviled the vessel’s eyes,
+her heart, and her sides; uttered dreadful curses upon her head, her
+soul, and her liver; and after loading her with all the horrid
+imprecations that vulgar rage could invent, he completed the climax, by
+exclaiming to the sailors “_Da-amm her, cut her old throat, da-amm
+her!_”
+
+After much exertion, and a varied repetition of oaths, and enraged
+stampings upon the deck, the vessel was brought about, and we stood in
+for the shore, sailing for a short time in steady approach to the river;
+but within less than half an hour, the bright prospect, which had so
+recently opened to us, was again obscured, by the Voltigeur striking
+upon the mud, and being nearly fixed aground. Fortunately she _went
+about_ on this tack, with greater facility than the other, and hence, by
+putting her round, she was soon set afloat again: but it was now
+necessary to stand away, and make a long reach, from the shore, in order
+to get into deep water. This would necessarily delay our arrival; still
+the captain insisted that we should reach Berbische at night. But upon
+my next inquiry respecting our progress I found that this was not very
+probable, for we were then _six miles further off_ than when the boat
+came to us in the morning.
+
+Soon afterwards all hands were summoned and “_about_, _about_,”
+re-echoed throughout the sloop. But the obstinate Voltigeur again
+resisted. She had a sad antipathy to the Berbische river, and on their
+attempting to tack for the shore, she refused to turn her head that way.
+The poor captain, who had cautiously stationed every man at his post,
+and prepared, with all due care, for putting her about, grew almost
+frantic. He stamped and raved, and swore with all the bitterness of
+unbridled wrath: and, having gone through his whole volume of oaths, he
+threw himself down, exhausted by his exertions and his fury, exclaiming,
+“_Dammee if we shall get in to-night, for she’ll neither wag one way nor
+t’other._” For this I was not unprepared, my expectations having been
+long of accord with the information; and although the epithets of old,
+rotten and leaky, used by the enraged captain, were, from all
+appearance, very correctly true, I was grown too resigned, or too
+callous to all the ills of my situation, to experience any feelings of
+alarm respecting our safety.
+
+After some delay the vessel did _come about_, and we again _stood on_,
+boldly, for the land, making all possible sail, the master and his crew
+not despairing of being able to reach Berbische by night. But, as if the
+very fates had combined with the elements, to throw every obstacle in
+the way of our passage, the breeze suddenly dropped, and we were beset
+in a calm! Against this impediment neither the rage of the commander,
+nor the exertions of the sailors could aught avail. The captain, who had
+already opened his whole store of imprecations, was about to repeat them
+with manful energy, but, recollecting himself, he bestowed one round
+curse upon the wind and the passage, and as a closing exclamation cried
+out—“_Da-amm the old tub, it is not her fault neither—there is not a
+thimbleful of wind! Dammee if we shall get in this week!_”
+
+Thus ended the sailing of the day, and we again let go our anchor for
+the night. The poor harassed man now became more tranquil, and I took
+courage to address him in conversation, when I learned, that after all
+the fatigue and exertions of the day, we were further from Berbische
+than we had been the preceding night; but that we had the advantage of
+lying in deeper water, and, consequently, were better situated for
+availing ourselves of the morning breeze.
+
+I resumed my hard birth, protected as before, and in nausea, and
+discomfort, rolled out the tedious hours of night.
+
+The fifth morning of this wretched voyage was serene and clear, and I
+left my sleepless couch at an early hour to breathe a purer air upon
+deck; when, upon looking out, I perceived an island not far distant,
+lying directly in our course. From the sailors I learned that it was
+within the mouth of the river Berbische. This was happy intelligence,
+and seemed to promise a speedy termination of our eventful voyage. When
+the captain came upon deck, he greeted me with a broad oath, assuring me
+that I should breakfast at Fort St. Andrew. I wished it might be so:
+indeed all seemed now within our reach, and it appeared to be scarcely
+possible that any new impediment could interrupt the completion of our
+passage; but the experience we had had was sufficient to create doubts
+in the mind of the most sanguine, and to temper his warmest expectations
+to the sobriety of tardy and interrupted accomplishment; or, even, to
+convince him that the uncertainties of a sea voyage could never end
+until the foot was again upon _terra firma_.
+
+At seven o’clock we weighed anchor, and immediately made all possible
+sail, with the island displaying its thick woods, directly ahead of the
+sloop, and forming a very pleasing object. As we came nearer to it, I
+observed that it was situated about the middle of the river, and nearly
+opposite to the landing-place at the fort. All seemed now propitious,
+and we sailed smoothly on: but we had yet to experience a further trial
+of patience! An hour had not passed, from the time of our getting under
+weigh, before our progress was completely arrested by the Voltigeur
+again striking upon the mud. “_By Heav’ns_,” exclaimed the captain,
+“_she’s aground! This is worse than ever!_” All his vexations were now
+cruelly aggravated by the mortification of being seen from the fort; and
+he ran, stamped, stormed, and cursed in loud bursts of rage, which
+outdid all his former doings. I felt the less uneasy at this additional
+delay, from the opportunity it afforded me of contemplating the scene
+before us: more particularly as the vessel could not suffer any injury
+from her soft bed, and as we were near enough to reach the shore in the
+boat, should any accident render it necessary for us to quit the sloop.
+The best exertions of the crew were of no avail: fixed in the mud we
+were compelled to let go the anchor, and wait until the flood tide
+should again set us afloat.
+
+The view before us was that of a wild country, only just opening into
+cultivation. It comprised an extent of wood and water, with small
+patches of land breaking into incipient tillage; but it had nothing of
+the bold and romantic scenery of mountainous regions: the picture was
+soft and harmonious. We were lying a few miles out at sea, looking
+directly up the river; the quiet waters of which were gliding, in
+tranquil stream, to the ocean. No part of the territory of the island
+was visible, but, from being flat and low, it appeared as a mere cluster
+of trees, growing out of the water, and causing a pleasant break in the
+wide opening of the river. On the right was the western shore covered
+with a continued mass of heavy forest, whose gigantic timbers, gradually
+elevating their crowded summits from the water’s edge, formed a broad
+expanse of interminable verdure, which fancy might have easily converted
+into a green field, of immense extent, gently sloping to the river. On
+the left was the eastern shore, shaded also with deep forests; but on
+this side, the river’s bank was partially thinned of its woods, and
+presented to our view, the fort and batteries, with a wide savanna at
+the back of them. I gazed in earnest contemplation upon the solemn
+wildness of the scene, and lamented not the accident which had so
+peculiarly placed it before me. For a moment my mind was abstracted from
+every thing more immediately around me, and I was totally absorbed
+amidst these vast and unbounded forests. But my attention was quickly
+diverted from these endless woods, by a loud cry of “_All hands to heave
+the anchor_.” The tide had supplied us with water to float the sloop,
+and we lost no time in attempting to escape from our muddy birth.
+
+The vessel now stood directly into the mouth of the river, and, being
+careful to keep the middle of the stream, we again felt secure of our
+passage. But the fates had not yet filled their page. Before we had time
+to reach the fort the wind dropped, and, from the vessel disobeying the
+helm, we again drifted aground. This was worse than all: and the poor
+captain now swore that “_the very devil himself must have set his spell
+upon the vessel_!”
+
+We were again compelled to let go the anchor, in order to wait the
+return of the breeze. Being near to the island and the fort, I might
+have gone on shore in the boat, but could not venture to ask our angry
+commander to spare any of his men for that purpose. I had often seen him
+expend his wrath without presuming to interrupt him. It was now
+increased to frenzy, and he loudly vociferated “_There is some daamm
+devil in the sloop that’s bringing us this passage, and we must heave
+overboard, or we shan’t get in this month._” It was perilous to speak to
+him, for if any thing I might say should chance to cross him, it was not
+certain but, in the overflowings of his rage, he might fix upon me as
+the “_Jonas_,” and deem it expedient to take his measures accordingly.
+At all events it was necessary to keep out of the way, in order not to
+interrupt him or his men in working the vessel; I therefore remained
+below, during the high tide of his ravings and stampings, showing my
+head only at the hatchway, like an unhappy object peeping out between
+the bars of a prison.
+
+We remained for a considerable time, deep fixed in mud. Luckily the
+meridian sun brought a fine breeze, and we were once more set afloat,
+when we were quickly placed alongside the battery at St. Andrew’s fort,
+and I most gladly jumped on shore, rejoicing in the termination of a
+voyage which had been harassing and vexatious, beyond all that the most
+ill-tokened calculation could have anticipated. Never was any poor
+suffering captive more happy in being released from long confinement,
+than I was to escape from my noisome abode in the Voltigeur. During four
+sad long days, and four still more wearisome nights had I been immured
+in the filthiest of all filthy dungeons, ill, and in a manner without
+food or support, having only the repetition of bad plantains and water.
+
+I was met at the landing-place by Mr. Mackie, the acting surgeon of the
+garrison, who kindly conducted me to an apartment, where I could cast
+off my sea garments, and submit myself to the purifying process of a
+complete ablution. No person could have wished for my birth on board the
+wretched Voltigeur: but every one might have envied me the luxury of my
+bath on leaving it! I cannot tell you how delightful—how grateful it
+was! It so refreshed, and animated me, that I felt, and certainly
+was ... _a very different being_!
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XLVI.
+
+
+ Berbische, June 3, 1796.
+
+Fort St. Andrew is situated on the eastern bank of the river Berbische,
+opposite to the island which graces its entrance. Nothing bearing the
+semblance of the abode of man is within sight of it: nor is there any
+way of escaping from it, either on foot, in a carriage, or on horseback;
+the river being the only private path, and the only public road. At the
+back of the fort is an extensive savanna, giving habitation to
+loud-roaring frogs, also to enormous snakes, alligators, and other
+reptiles. This naked waste stretches to a great distance, and is
+bordered by dark forests, which reach near to the fort, and preclude
+every view except of the water and the flat uncultivated savanna. In
+these woods wild Indians range in all the freedom of nature. Sometimes
+also tigers are seen prowling from their deep shades; and our ears are
+daily and almost hourly saluted with the loud chattering of monkies, the
+louder screaming of parrots, and the confused noise of numerous other
+inhabitants.
+
+The fort is calculated for the accommodation of between two and three
+hundred men. The territory attached to it scarcely reaches beyond the
+buildings, and the whole garrison is confined to a circle of less than
+half a mile; the sole promenade, without the gates, being from the
+barrack to the hospital, and back from the hospital to the barrack, a
+distance of little more than a hundred yards. A short path has, indeed,
+been opened into the savanna, which forms a very limited walk, in the
+dry season, only. A few of the government negroes, who are employed at
+the fort, have constructed small huts at the back of the hospital, which
+call to my remembrance the cottagers’ cabins in the Highlands of
+Scotland. At these habitations, we sometimes witness the joyous dance,
+and have our ears regaled with the sound of the rude African drum, the
+rattle, and the banjar.
+
+Beyond the immediate precincts of the fort we do not find any human
+abode, without making a journey of, at least, a mile and a half by
+water. At that distance is now forming the town of Amsterdam, the new
+capital of the colony. Between the fort and the town the river Kannye
+opens into the great Berbische river; and between the Kannye and the
+fort, the border of the parent river is still covered with the wild
+woods: but these are doomed to the axe, and soon a road will be opened
+upon the bank of the river Berbische to the river Kannye, and from the
+opposite shore of that river to the town. This will be a great, and
+desirable improvement. It will at once relieve the gloominess of the
+situation, and scenery of the fort, form a convenient promenade, for
+horse and foot, and remove the dull solitude of the garrison, by
+establishing a more easy intercourse with the capital.
+
+The town is yet in embryo. According to a plan formed for its
+construction it is to be built upon the angle, or peninsula, between the
+rivers Berbische and Kannye, extending along the bank of the former. The
+land on which it is to be erected is in part cleared of its wood, and
+divided into lots ready for building; but, at present, only here and
+there a scattered house is to be seen. Beyond the prepared land, and not
+half a mile from the government-house, the Bush still overhangs the
+river Kannye; but those destructive engines fire and the axe are now
+directed against it.
+
+The whole scenery at New Amsterdam, as well as at Fort St. Andrew,
+betrays the infant state of the colony. The dreariness of the land, just
+robbed of its thick woods; the nakedness that prevails around the
+government-house; the want of roads and paths; the swampy savanna; the
+heavy forests; in short all that meets the eye conveys the idea of a
+country just emerging from its original rudeness, into cultivation.
+
+Since my arrival in this colony my hours have been busily occupied in
+attending the sick, and establishing regulations and arrangements for
+their accommodation. We have a garrison-hospital, built by the Dutch,
+which is tolerably commodious, and, with a few alterations, may serve
+for the present garrison. The Hollanders, without any regard to climate,
+had preserved their European custom of placing the sick, two or three
+together, in a species of box, with high enclosed sides, instead of
+keeping them apart, and giving them the advantages of air and
+cleanliness, by putting them upon open bedsteads.
+
+I have directed that all these confined and offensive bed-boxes should
+be removed, and have given orders to have some bedsteads made upon a new
+construction, which I trust will prove both convenient and comfortable.
+They will consist merely of four short posts, those at the top a little
+longer than those at the bottom, and two side-rails, fitted together
+with wooden pins, and so contrived as to be easily taken to pieces, and
+packed in a portable form, in case we should at any time wish to remove
+them. They will be made of mahogany, a wood which is so plentiful in
+these colonies as to be used for every common purpose. A piece of strong
+canvass, stretched from side to side, will form the bedding; a
+head-board will slide into grooves in the two upper posts, and the
+side-rails will move up and down in an opening cut through them, and be
+fastened with pins, so as to be at any time raised or lowered at the
+head, without disturbing the patient. When these shall be finished, I
+hope to see a very complete hospital. The unfortunate sick will have the
+comfort of being well lodged; each will have his mahogany bedstead to
+himself; and men, with different maladies, will not be crowded together
+in filthy boxes, nor shut up from the refreshing air.
+
+The 93d regiment is intrusted with the defence of this colony. The mess
+is one of the pleasantest I have yet met with. In gratitude I ought to
+tell you that every individual emulates his commander in kind and
+friendly attentions toward me. Indeed I cannot but be strongly sensible
+of the many marks of politeness and civility with which I am daily
+honored. Most of the officers are men of cultivated manners. Among them
+are several of considerable fortune, and some of rank; men who are not
+only well-disciplined soldiers, but well-bred gentlemen; being no less
+versed in the polished rules of civil, than in the austere observances
+of a military life. The general order and decorum which mark their
+conduct afford the surest indication of correct discipline, and offer
+the most convincing proof of the high advantage derived from serving
+with a strict, but respected commander. Colonel Gammell, while he
+suffers no remission of duty, is affable and pleasant towards those who
+are under him. He treats them as companions, and seeks to engage their
+affection and esteem. The soldiers consider him severe; but he is their
+friend, and the majority of them are not insensible of it. We frequently
+overhear the conversations and remarks of those about the hospital,
+respecting him, and they always terminate very much to his credit; for
+if one calls him rigorous or severe, another instantly contrasts what
+they regard as his better qualities, saying—“Why, to be sure, he is a
+little _close upon us_, and _keeps us to it_; but then you know it is
+for our own benefit; and, besides, how good he is to us when we are
+sick! You see he keeps these doctors to their duty, too. He comes to see
+us himself every day, and makes them give us plenty of every thing
+that’s good for us; and ’tisn’t all officers do that, you know! Some of
+’em are more afraid of an hospital than a cannonball, and never care
+whether we die or live!”
+
+In this way their remarks usually go to the approval of the Colonel’s
+conduct towards them; and, like good soldiers, they acknowledge their
+esteem for a commander who, by imposing a strict routine of duty, gives
+them cause to pride themselves upon a degree of pre-eminence in point of
+health and discipline.
+
+Among the many ills of climate, I am now suffering from a teasing
+eruption which has thrown itself out upon my legs; a complaint which I
+find has lately been prevalent among the troops in this colony, although
+we had not observed it at Demarara. It is more severe than the prickly
+heat, but somewhat of the same nature; and is, perhaps, only an
+aggravated degree of that disease. It creates an uneasy sensation, not
+amounting to actual pain, but sufficient to rob me of rest.
+
+The second day after my arrival at Berbische I had the unhappy
+opportunity of inspecting the body of a soldier who had fallen sacrifice
+to yellow fever. The appearances were similar to those which we had
+witnessed at Demarara, except that, in the present instance, there were
+some striking marks of inflammation in the chest.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XLVII.
+
+
+ Berbische, June.
+
+I have lately been present at the sale of a Dutch cargo of slaves, at
+the new town of Amsterdam. Many of the officers went from the fort to
+witness this degrading spectacle, and although my feelings had suffered
+from a similar scene at Demarara, I could not resist the novelty of
+observing the Dutch mode of proceeding in this sad traffic of _human
+cattle_.
+
+On arriving at the town, we were surprised to find it a holyday, or a
+kind of public fair. The sale seemed to have excited general attention,
+and to have brought together all the inhabitants of the colony. The
+planters came down from the estates with their wives and families all
+arrayed in their gayest apparel; the belles and beaux appeared in their
+Sunday suits; even the children were in full dress; and their slaves
+decked out in gaudy clothes. It was quite a gala-day, and greater
+numbers of people were collected than we had supposed to have been in
+the colony. Short jackets, with tawdry petticoats of large flowered
+patterns, and loose Dutch slippers formed the prevailing dress of the
+females. Scarlet, crimson, and poppy, with all the bright colours used
+in a northern winter, rivalled a tropical sun, and reigned conspicuous
+in their flaming apparel. To the inhabitants it seemed a day of
+hilarity, but to the poor Africans it was a period of heavy grief and
+affliction; for they were to be sold as beasts of burden—torn from each
+other—and widely dispersed about the colony, to wear out their days in
+the hopeless toils of slavery.
+
+The fair being opened, and the crowd assembled, these unpitied beings
+were exposed to the hammer of public auction. A long table was placed in
+the middle of a large room, or logis. At one end was seated the
+auctioneer; at the other was a chair for the negroes to stand upon, in
+order to be exhibited to the view of the purchasers, who were sitting at
+the sides of the table, or standing about the different parts of the
+room. All being in readiness, the slaves were brought in, one at a time,
+and mounted upon the chair before the bidders, who handled and inspected
+them, with as little concern as if they had been examining cattle in
+Smithfield market. They turned them about, felt them, viewed their shape
+and their limbs, looked into their mouths, made them jump and throw out
+their arms, and subjected them to all the means of trial as if dealing
+for a horse, or any other brute animal. Indeed the indelicacy shown
+towards the defenceless Africans, by some of these dealers in their
+species, was not less unmanly than it was disgusting, and insulting to
+humanity.
+
+We were shocked to observe women in the room who had come to the fair
+for the express purpose of purchasing slaves. Even children were brought
+to point the lucky finger, and the boy or girl, thus chosen, was bought
+by papa at the request of superstitious mamma, to give as a fairing to
+young massa or missy!
+
+The price of these poor degraded blacks varied from 600 to 900 guilders,
+according to their age and strength, or their appearance of being
+healthy or otherwise. The boys and girls were sold for 600 or 700
+guilders; some of the men for as many as 900; and the women were knocked
+down at about 800.
+
+In the course of the sale, a tall, robust negro, on being brought into
+the auction-room, approached the table, with a fine negress hanging upon
+his arm. The man was ordered to mount the chair. He obeyed, though
+manifestly with reluctance. His bosom heaved, and grief was in his eye.
+The woman remained in the crowd. A certain price was mentioned to set
+the purchase forward, and the bidding commenced: but on the slave being
+desired to exhibit the activity of his limbs, and to display his person,
+he lowered his chin upon his breast, and hung down his head in positive
+refusal; then, looking at the woman, made signs expressive of great
+distress. Next he pointed to her, and then to the chair, evidently
+intimating a desire to have her placed by his side. She was his chosen
+wife, and nature was correctly intelligible. Not obtaining immediate
+acquiescence, he became agitated and impatient. The sale was
+interrupted, and as he could not be prevailed upon to move a single
+muscle by way of exhibiting his person, the proceedings were at a stand.
+He looked again at the woman,—again pointed to the chair; held up two
+fingers to the auctioneer, and implored the multitude in anxious
+suppliant gestures. Upon his countenance was marked the combined
+expression of sorrow, affection, and alarm. He grew more and more
+restless, and repeated signs which seemed to say—“Let us be sold
+together! Give me my heart’s choice as the partner of my days, then
+dispose of me as you please, and I will be content to wear out my life
+in the heavy toils of bondage.” It was nature that spake, and her
+language could not be mistaken! Humanity could no longer resist the
+appeal, and it was universally agreed that they should make but one lot.
+A second chair was now brought, and the woman was placed at the side of
+her husband. His countenance instantly brightened. He hung upon the neck
+of his wife, and embraced her with rapture; then folding her in his
+arms, and pressing her to his bosom, he became composed; and looked
+round with a smile of complacency, which plainly said, “Proceed!—I am
+yours, yours, or yours! Let this be the associate of my toils, and I am
+satisfied.” The bidding was renewed. They exhibited marks of health and
+strength, and, quickly, the two were sold together for 1650 guilders.
+
+“Enough!” you will say. “Give me no more of slaves, nor of slavery!” For
+the present I obey, and, leaving the dusky Africans, hasten to introduce
+you to the copper-coloured Indians; thus, leading you to the opposite
+extreme of human life, and placing you among those of our species, who
+spurn alike the shackles of slavery, and the slavish trammels of
+society. I have lately had an opportunity of seeing several parties of
+the wild and naked inhabitants of these woods—men who range, at large,
+in the fullest enjoyment of native freedom; neither suffering their
+liberty to be effaced by bondage, nor abridged by civilization. Being
+one day at the town of New Amsterdam I took a walk with the acting
+surgeon of the garrison, down to the Bush[12], on the border of the
+creek or river Kannye. Nigh to the water we met with a party of Indians,
+and observing that they made no attempt to avoid us, we went so near to
+them as to mix in the group. We found them engaged in various pursuits;
+and remarked that none of their occupations suffered any interruption by
+our presence. A woman and her son, who were in the river, continued to
+bathe before us, and seemed greatly to enjoy the water. Some were
+cutting wood for firing; some collecting the Bush-water[13] with a
+calabash, for the purpose of drinking, or of cooking—some were stewing
+crabs, together with capsicum and cassada juice into pepper-pot; and
+some were eating the raw tops of the mountain-cabbage. To the latter I
+held forth my hand, implying a desire to partake of their repast. They
+immediately gave me a part; and seemed pleased on observing me eat of
+it. A better salad I never tasted. It was very crisp and white—much
+superior to the best lettuce or endive; and, in flavour, somewhat
+resembling the filbert. Perceiving that they were not incommoded by our
+society, we continued a considerable time attentively watching their
+proceedings; but their curiosity was not commensurate with our own, for
+they scarcely looked at us, or appeared to be, in any degree, interested
+concerning us. With indifference they saw us approach; they regarded us
+with indifference whilst we remained; and with indifference they
+witnessed our departure.
+
+Two days after, I saw a much larger party of Indians, who came to the
+government-house to ask for rum, as a compensation for felling timber;
+and the same evening, on walking towards the creek with some of the
+officers, we met with a still more numerous body of these inhabitants of
+the forest, who had been employed by the Governor to cut down wood
+preparatory to clearing the land near the town for cultivation. They
+were busied in packing up all their little store of implements and
+utensils, in order to return to their native abode in the Bush. Bows and
+arrows, apparatus for preparing cassada, the clay cooking-vessel,
+hammocks, calabashes, and crab-baskets constituted their whole list of
+stores and furniture. All these were light in structure, or in the
+materials, and, being arranged in compact order, were easily carried on
+their backs. The women were made to bear the burden; while the men took
+no share of the load. One man, who had three wives, packed upon their
+backs, very neatly, the whole of what he had to carry away; then taking
+up a long staff, he marched on before with lordly step, the wives
+following him in silent train, one after another. We walked gently
+behind a party of about forty as far as the creek, and there saw some of
+them embark in their canoes, to paddle up the river; while the others
+took a narrow path leading into the depths of the forest: so that
+quickly all of them were out of sight, leaving not a trace of their
+visit behind.
+
+They come down, occasionally, in parties, and enter into an engagement
+to cut wood for a certain compensation; but no dependence can be placed
+upon them for a single day, for they sometimes pack up all belonging to
+them, and return suddenly and unexpectedly into the Bush; from whence
+they come not again for several months, perhaps not at all. They are
+naturally indolent, and, being tenacious of freedom, they become
+impatient of the restraint imposed by daily labour; wherefore, they
+hastily cast it off, and fly back to the forest to range in their native
+liberty. From possessing a degree of expertness in the felling of
+timber, they might be highly useful in forwarding the cultivation of the
+colony; but they have no sense of industry, nor do they seem to acquire
+the least disposition to emulate the colonists in any of their pursuits:
+content with finding food and pepper in the woods, they have no ambition
+to become planters. Cotton is not necessary to protect their naked
+skins; nor are their appetites so refined as to require either coffee or
+sugar.
+
+At the fort we have had a visit also from an Indian family who came to
+us in the true style of forest accommodation, forming a scene of high
+interest and novelty. Before their little vessel reached the fort, we
+observed the long black hair and naked skins of the man, his two wives,
+and several children, who were all stowed about the vessel with the
+strictest attention to equipoise—_trimming_ it most exactly. The canoe
+was large, and, in addition to the family, was loaded with cedar and
+other kinds of wood for sale or barter. On the top of the cargo appeared
+a ferocious-looking animal, setting up his bristles like the quills of
+the porcupine. It was a species of wild hog caught in the forest, and
+hence called a _bush-hog_. A small monkey was likewise skipping about
+the canoe. At one side sat two very fine parrots, and on the other was
+perched a large and beautiful mackaw, displaying all the splendour of
+his gay plumage. On the canoe arriving at the landing-place, the bow and
+arrows, the clay cooking-vessel, calabashes, hammocks, and crab-baskets,
+were all brought into view; and we gazed on the whole, as forming a very
+complete and striking specimen of original equipage. The entire family,
+the household apparatus, the canoe and paddles, in short all the
+furniture and implements for cooking, for sleeping, for shooting,
+fishing, and travelling were here moved together in one compact body, so
+as to render it indifferent to them, whether they should return to the
+home from whence they came, or take up a new abode in any other part of
+the forest.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XLVIII.
+
+
+ Berbische, June.
+
+Several opportunities have lately offered to me of making boat
+excursions, with Colonel Gammell and others of the officers, to New
+Amsterdam, and I have had the honor of being presented to Governor and
+Madame Van Battenburg, of whose hospitable and polite attentions I
+cannot express myself in sufficient terms of praise. They have kindly
+invited me to take up my abode at the government-house, during my stay
+in the colony, but I have to lament that my duties at the hospital will
+not allow me to avail myself of so flattering and agreeable an
+accommodation.
+
+The government-house is, beyond all comparison, the handsomest and most
+spacious edifice I have yet seen in South America. It is built near to
+the river, with one front commanding the water; the other the town.
+
+A few days ago I joined a small party from the fort, in an excursion to
+some of the planters’ estates up the river Kannye, and was particularly
+gratified in viewing the rich plantation of Mynheer Ongre. We set off at
+an early hour, in order to have the day before us, and arrived at this
+gentleman’s abode just as he was sitting down to his Dutch breakfast of
+very excellent crab soup, some fine fish, a tongue, and a variety of
+other good things. It is the custom of the Dutch to take coffee in bed,
+or as soon as they rise, and to make a more substantial breakfast of
+soups and solids about ten o’clock. After partaking of this repast, we
+were conducted about the estate, which is rich and well-cultivated,
+yielding abundance of coffee and cocoa, and some cotton. The annual
+produce of coffee is estimated at 140,000lb. weight, and of cocoa
+10,000lb. Two hundred slaves are employed upon the estate, calculated at
+the value of from 50_l._ to 100_l._ each. The house is handsome and
+spacious, the plantation extensive, and the coffee logis upon a very
+large scale: the whole exhibiting the appearance of fertility and
+opulence. Having visited the fields of coffee, and the cocoa plantation,
+we next went to the logis, where we saw the cocoa seeds exposed for
+drying, preparatory to their being made into chocolate; and, also, great
+quantities of coffee undergoing the last process, previous to their
+being sent to market. I observed that what is commonly used as cocoa, in
+England, is only the shell or outer covering of the seed—the kernel, or
+better part, being used for making the chocolate.
+
+At another estate we were regaled with fruit, and several pines were put
+into the boat, when we were going away. Here we also pulled from the
+trees a number of calabashes of uncommon size, to take home with us to
+use by way of bowls and platters. We likewise gathered some roots of
+jalap from under the hedges, and observed the ipecacuanha growing in the
+fields. Thus, you find, that however shut from the world, we can neither
+want fruit, food, nor physic; for the hedges, the fields, and the
+gardens amply supply them all: drink, clothing, and condiment we also
+collect from the trees, the plants, and the bushes; and, in the
+calabash, bountiful nature has even furnished us with plates, basins,
+and dishes.
+
+Although we had not the usual incitements of a sumptuous dinner and a
+splendid ball, we were not unmindful that the 4th inst. was a day of
+rejoicing. The troops fired a _feu de joie_; and a royal salute sounded
+through the thick woods both from the fort, and an armed schooner which
+was lying in the river. Bumpers were filled to His Majesty’s health, and
+we were merry and happy as you, who were revelling in all the luxuries
+of London. One treat was added to our feast, which, even in that
+all-supplying place, you would fail to meet with, and which I know would
+have much pleased you; viz. the report of the cannon through the deep
+woods around us, with the loud shrieks of parrots, monkies, and the
+other wild inhabitants, on hearing it: and, above all, the enchanting
+echo which was returned to us across the river. I had listened each
+night with delight to the solemn reverberations of the evening gun, and
+was quite prepared to watch the effect of a more heavy firing. It was
+grand, and wanted only the stillness of evening, and the placid rays of
+the moon to render it sublime. On escaping from the fort, the sound
+seems first to cross a part of the water, and roll softly through the
+island of trees, at the river’s mouth: from thence it traverses the
+remainder of the wide stream, and on reaching the thick woods of the
+opposite shore, it suddenly echoes, as if abruptly repulsed into the
+water. Afterwards it breaks through the forest, and is heard in rumbling
+undulation, as if again interrupted in its course, till at length its
+awful reverberations steal their hollow way through the distant woods in
+deep and heavy-rolling thunder.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER XLIX.
+
+
+ Berbische, June.
+
+On the 10th inst. a sloop arrived from Demarara, bringing us news of the
+surrender of St. Lucie: but stating only the simple fact, unconfirmed by
+any authentic details. Still we cheerfully hail the tidings, not
+doubting but the conquest has been honorable to our countrymen and
+comrades.
+
+Since I wrote to you last we have had the misfortune to lose one of the
+soldiers by the disease called coup de soleil, or ictus solis. The poor
+man was on guard and stationed as sentinel to take his turn of duty for
+two hours at the gate of the fort, but before this short period had
+elapsed he was seized, fell down suddenly, and expired at his post. The
+day was excessively hot, and the perpendicular rays of the sun struck
+directly upon his head. Others of the men have likewise experienced the
+disease, but we have only, in this instance, seen it fatal.
+
+I may also mention a very marked and melancholy case of yellow fever
+which has occurred at Fort St. Andrew, affording a striking example of
+the nature of this afflicting malady. A grenadier named Llewellyn, a
+handsome, well-made man, of robust figure, was brought into the
+hospital, complaining only of an uneasy sensation about the region of
+the stomach, which although indescribable, conveyed to him an early
+assurance of the fatal tendency of the disease, with which he was
+attacked. On asking him to explain his complaints, and the feelings
+which so alarmed him, he replied, “_I feel that I shall die_,” and
+placing his hand over his stomach, said he had “something there” that
+would soon kill him. We used all the means in our power to divert him
+from this desponding impression; but in vain! Nothing, he said, could
+restore him, for he knew the hand of death was upon him. He evidently
+laboured under an attack of the disorder, termed _yellow fever_; but,
+with the exception of this fatal sensation, no symptom was present which
+could have led to the apprehension of immediate danger. At my next
+visit, on the following morning, I found him sitting up, and apparently
+somewhat relieved; but on my asking him how he was, he still replied,
+“_Dying! I feel that I shall soon be gone._” He continued perfectly
+rational and collected until the next day; when, alas! death but too
+surely confirmed the accuracy of his predictions. From the moment of
+attack he had been assured, that nothing could save him! The
+indescribable feeling he complained of, seemed to induce a rapid
+exhaustion of the vital powers, while it formed, not only the leading
+feature, but almost the only symptom of the disease.
+
+Upon examination, we found the same redness of the inner coat of the
+stomach, which we had observed in all cases after yellow fever: in the
+lungs also were some strong marks of recent inflammation.
+
+I mentioned in a former letter that alligators were in the list of our
+neighbours at Fort St. Andrew. They abound in the adjoining savanna, and
+in their journey down a small muddy stream to the river, they often
+visit the fosse surrounding the fort; and sometimes are even bold enough
+to ascend the works, and creep over the ramparts. One of them lately
+alarmed a sentinel in the night, by suddenly approaching him as he was
+standing at his post within the fort. The soldier, terrified at so
+unexpected a visitor, in the impulse of surprise fired upon the animal,
+and spread an alarm throughout the garrison. The guard instantly turned
+out, and all the troops were roused, and flying to arms, in the idea
+that the enemy was about to land. But lo! the frightened crocodile
+retreated, and the soldiers had only to return to their beds!
+
+We have since had one of these frightful amphibia killed; and a more
+hideous specimen of the animal creation could scarcely be met with. It
+appeared the most forbidding of nature’s forms. The green eyes, the
+sharp teeth and monstrous jaws, the strong waving tail, the hard
+impenetrable skin, and the short thick legs, and formidable claws,
+together with the circumstance of its crawling so near the earth, render
+the alligator a real object of horror. He is well armed both for attack
+and defence: while his scaly horn-like skin serves as a protecting coat
+of mail, he possesses, as an assailant, the devouring grasp of his
+shark-like teeth, and the ability of striking a blow with his shell-like
+tail, which might knock a man down, or fracture his legs. His limbs are
+also of peculiar strength, and are each armed with four powerful claws.
+
+With all this strength of form, and of action, he is singularly
+tenacious of life: indeed, by the common means of destruction it is
+impossible at once to deprive him of animation; for however cut, beaten,
+or torn, still signs of vitality remain for a considerable time. It is
+only with extreme difficulty that he is conquered in the first instance,
+and, even when subdued, to kill him is still a task. Unless at certain
+parts, a musket-ball will not penetrate his skin, and a violent blow
+scarcely does him any injury. If cut, or torn in pieces, and left to
+appearance dead, he, for a long time after, exhibits marks of sensation
+upon being touched.
+
+The one we destroyed was first shot in the head, but he was still a most
+dangerous and active enemy, and had nearly seized one of the negroes by
+the leg. Notwithstanding his being wounded, he remained unsubdued until
+he had received many severe blows behind the neck; and for long after
+this he struck very forcibly with his tail. Further attempts were made
+to kill him, but, as late as two hours from the time he was conquered,
+he pressed my hand with considerable force, on my taking hold of one of
+his claws; for several hours after, he continued to show signs of life,
+and it was even difficult to mark the moment when it became extinct. It
+was my intention that you should some day see his formidable coat of
+armour, and for that purpose, I had given directions to have it
+carefully preserved; but from waiting to know that the creature was
+actually dead, before we stripped him of his skin, we unluckily lost
+him, and I shall only be able to present you with his claws. Having left
+him near the hospital whilst we walked into the fort, the negroes took
+an opportunity of stealing him away; and, on returning, we found our
+alligator chopped in pieces, and already stewing into soup—the slaves
+anticipating the mess, as a delicious feast. The meat was white, and not
+unlike the flesh of a rabbit. But for the common prejudice attaching to
+its form, perhaps the alligator, as food, might not be found inferior to
+other amphibious animals: possibly it might be equal to our rich turtle,
+or the more delicate frogs of France.
+
+We have lately made a party from the fort, and spent two most pleasant
+days—one at the governor’s, the other with Mr. Blair, an opulent
+planter, residing at a short distance down the coast on the opposite
+shore of the river.
+
+At the governor’s a dance and fête were given in the evening to the
+slaves, and we were extremely delighted to see how much they enjoyed
+themselves. They assembled in the great hall of the government-house,
+having a violin, with the fife and drum for their band. Both negroes and
+mulattoes danced with a degree of animation and pleasure, which bespake
+them free from care. The governor, his lady, his sister, several
+gentlemen of the colony, and our party from the fort, attended as
+spectators, and were all amused and gratified in witnessing this merry
+dance of slaves.
+
+Until now I had only seen the slaves perform the rude African dance upon
+the open green, and had not imagined them to be capable of moving with
+such order as they here exhibited in regular country dances. Even
+minuets were led down, in precise and stately step, and with a decree of
+ease and gracefulness of movement which are seldom witnessed among the
+common people of England.
+
+In the course of the evening a circumstance occurred which had nearly
+interrupted the order and harmony of the fête: but it terminated with
+only affording to the governor a pleasing and facetious opportunity of
+convincing us of his intimate knowledge of the English language. In the
+midst of the dance three officers of our army and navy, who were not of
+the party invited, and who had been devoting rather too freely to the
+rosy god, came staggering, abruptly, into the hall. One of them, with
+the busy officiousness of inebriety, insisted upon introducing the
+others to Madame Van Battenburg: but he had forgotten his English! or,
+in the confidence inspired by wine, was ambitious to display his
+knowledge of French; and therefore addressed her only in the latter
+dialect, speaking it so incorrectly that it was difficult to comprehend
+what he said, or rather what he meant to say. Alarmed at his condition,
+Madame Van Battenburg begged to be protected lest he should tumble
+against her; and true enough, at this moment, the poor captain fell
+sprawling at her feet. After much exertion, and with some assistance, he
+rose up, and supported himself upon his legs. He had now to make his
+apologies, which were likewise attempted in broken French, too bad to be
+understood. During all this his companions were reeling about the hall,
+but, regardless of them, he continued to persecute Madame Van Battenburg
+with his bad French, insisting that either she or Mademoiselle Van
+Battenburg should join him in the dance: “_Venez, venez, Madame_,” said
+he, “_il faut danser—voulez vous viens danser avec moi?_” but finding he
+could not prevail with either of the ladies, he suddenly turned from
+them, and happening to stumble again upon his companions, each of them
+seized a sable damsel, and dragging their partners into the row, took
+their places in the dance. But it soon appeared that they could perform
+only _reels_, and the country dances being interrupted by their
+presence, it became necessary to lead away these _slaves ... of the
+bottle_, in order to prevent both the spectators, and the dancers from
+being deprived of their amusement; accordingly, with some trouble, they
+were conducted to the barrack. Madame Van Battenburg feeling surprised
+at our intoxicated captain speaking to her only in unintelligible
+French, mentioned it as remarkable, that he did not utter one syllable
+of English: when the governor replied, “No, my dear! it is not at all
+strange that Captain —— should not speak English to-night! on the
+contrary it is highly proper and correct: you know he is a British
+officer; and it would be disloyal in a British officer _to clip the
+King’s English_.” On another occasion this agreeable Dutchman gave a
+similar proof of his close acquaintance with our language. One day as
+they were sitting over the bottle, he and an officer of the navy debated
+respecting some captured property, which the governor considered as
+private, and the officer as public. The former urged that it was sacred,
+and ought not to be confiscated; while the latter insisted that it was
+colonial, and should be condemned for the benefit of the captors. Each
+maintained his opinion with amicable warmth—neither yielding to the
+other. In the evening a ball was given to the party at the governor’s
+house; when, in the mirthful dance, the officer, perhaps a little
+elevated by the debate, or _the bottle_, took Madame Van Battenburg in
+his arms and saluted her. The governor observing it, instantly called
+out with emphasis, “Very well, captain! Do you not consider that
+_private property_ either?” Perhaps few foreigners, who have not resided
+a long time in England, have acquired a more just idea of the spirit of
+our tongue. The governor is an agreeable well-informed man; and a social
+companion. His address is genteel, and his manners are polished. He is
+hospitable and friendly: his mind is highly cultivated, and in his
+conduct he obtains general respect and esteem. His door is always open
+to his friends, the officers are frequently invited to his table, and he
+allows them to consider his house as a home.
+
+Madame Van Battenburg is cheerful and entertaining. Her disposition is
+lively and animated; she sings very sweetly, and in conversation is
+sprightly and affable. She emulates the governor in his friendly
+hospitality, and, together, they make their abode pleasant and familiar
+to us all.
+
+There being neither coffee-house nor tavern at New Amsterdam, and the
+government-house being most conveniently situated at the landing-place
+on the bank of the river, we are happy to avail ourselves of the kind
+offer of the governor, to make his mansion our resting-place, and point
+of rendezvous, in our occasional visits to the town.
+
+To speak of the sumptuous entertainment we had at Mr. Blair’s were to
+throw an air of doubt upon my former notes regarding the paucity of
+fresh provisions in these colonies. But let it be remembered that
+individuals of large estate may find the means of procuring a most ample
+supply for their own tables, although the colony may not furnish an
+overplus to send to the public market. At Berbische fresh animal food is
+provided for the troops more frequently than we had been able to procure
+it at Demarara.
+
+Mr. Blair is one of the most opulent planters in these parts. At his
+place of residence, stock and provisions are in sufficient abundance to
+enable him to treat his friends with the most splendid liberality. He is
+generous and social, and the riches of his table are dispensed with all
+the bounty of his nature. Instead of a plain cottage just rising from
+the wild woods of an infant settlement, we might have fancied ourselves
+feasting in one of the hospitable mansions of Old England, or in some
+chartered hall even of voluptuous London itself.
+
+The house is a compact dwelling, neatly built of plain timber, offering,
+in its exterior, nothing to attract the stranger’s eye, nor to bespeak
+the many luxuries within. It stands on the border of the sea, open to
+the wide ocean. Before it, is an extensive and flat beach of firm sand,
+forming a pleasant ride or walk at the side of the water. The estate is
+quite in its infancy, being recently formed out of the rude forest, and
+only now breaking into cultivation. In great part of it the young plants
+of cotton are just shooting from the soil between the remaining stumps
+of trees lately destroyed. There being no market in the colony, each
+planter’s abode must furnish all within itself; every necessary, every
+comfort, all that is given, or enjoyed, must be found in the house or
+upon the plantation, yet in such plenty were they served at this
+prolific home, that one might have fancied a Covent-garden, or a
+Leadenhall market to have been near.
+
+A large and very handsome boat was sent for our conveyance, having an
+awning at the stern to protect us from the sun; and we were rowed across
+the mouth of the river by eight of the finest slaves of the estate, who
+pulled us on with surprising speed. At the landing-place another party
+of slaves attended with horses to conduct us to the house. The sun was
+extremely powerful, but we had a delightful ride about a mile and a half
+through fields of cotton and of plantains; the negroes running at the
+horses’ sides, according to the custom of the country, as fast as we
+chose to proceed.
+
+Hock and Seltzer water were presented immediately on our arrival, and
+the time, until dinner, was most gratefully occupied in the perusal of a
+packet of newspapers, just arrived from England: than which, perhaps, a
+greater treat could not have been offered us. For dinner we had
+excellent soup, with boiled fish, stewed fish, and fish in pie; also
+turtle, and crabs, most exquisitely dressed, forming two uncommonly rich
+and high-seasoned dishes. We had likewise a side of lamb, a fine goose,
+a large ham, &c. &c. After these followed a complete course of sweets.
+The cook was quite a proficient, and did great justice to the
+entertainment, the whole dinner being well dressed, and as well served.
+We had afterwards pines, shaddocks, melons, water-lemons, and multitudes
+of other fruits. Hock, Claret, Madeira, and Port wines were in liberal
+use. We had also Seltzer and Spa waters, bottled small beer, ale,
+porter, brandy, rum, Hollands, noyeau, and several different
+liqueurs—all in supply sufficient for a lord mayor’s feast.
+
+After our eating and drinking we took a walk about the plantation, and
+found every corner of it equally bounteous as the table and the cellar.
+Such a store of living stock, both large and small, I had not seen upon
+any estate since my arrival in the Western world. A more gratifying
+assemblage of domestic plenty could scarcely be found in any country.
+Among the stock I should not omit to mention, a pen of living turtles
+kept in readiness for the table: large droves of crabs were also running
+about near the door; and the neighbouring sea is, at all times, made
+tributary to the board. Several hundreds of negroes employed at work, or
+moving from place to place, improved the variety of the scene, while
+they added essentially to the value of the home. Together with the
+abundance of usual productions at this all-supplying abode were likewise
+some of the more rare and curious specimens, such as the small
+lion-monkey; and the large powys, or wild turkey of the woods; also the
+trumpeter, the fly-catcher, and several other uncommon birds. Our walk
+was highly gratifying, and offered much to excite, as well as to
+interest our contemplations. We extended it to the seabeach, and found
+the sand flat and firm as a bowling-green, and of a dark brown colour,
+neither liable to be blown into the eyes, nor to offend them by its
+brightness. A cool sea breeze adds to the many advantages of this
+situation: it is always free and pure, there being nothing to impede or
+contaminate it between the house and the ocean. After it grew dark a
+rubber was proposed as the amusement of the evening: but cards had no
+power to attract the majority of us from the _dear_ unfinished Times and
+Chronicle. We slept in hammocks according to the common mode of the
+country, and a most convenient mode it is, for a very large party may be
+thus accommodated in a small house, it being only necessary to hang up
+as many hammocks as there are persons. Neither beds, sheets, nor
+blankets are required, for the hammock includes them all, and serves as
+bedstead, mattress, and coverlet besides!
+
+The next morning I rose at an early hour, and took a walk before
+breakfast, to visit what is here termed the “yaw-house;” a kind of
+hospital, placed at a distance from all the other buildings, for the use
+of such of the negroes as may be afflicted with that hideous and
+distressing disorder, the yaws. Here I saw some most striking pictures
+of human misery—sad objects of compassion, and disgust! Not to
+commiserate their sufferings were impossible, but their offensive and
+diseased appearance creates a sense of horror on beholding them. Of all
+the unsightly disorders which the human body is heir to, this is perhaps
+the worst. Imagine to yourself a group of meager sickly-looking negroes,
+with their bones almost piercing their unhealthy skins, and their bodies
+beset with ragged noxious sores, and ulcerous excrescences, and you will
+have some idea of the wretched inhabitants of _a yaw-house_. Congregated
+disease, crowded suffering, and accumulated wretchedness are spectacles
+common to the eyes of medical men: they have been long familiar to mine!
+Yet the effect of this scene was too impressive ever to be effaced from
+my mind. Some of these truly pitiable beings were crouching upon their
+haunches round a smoky fire, some stood trembling on their sadly
+ulcerated limbs, others, supporting themselves by a large stick, were
+dragging their emaciated bodies from place to place; while many, too
+feeble to rise, lay shivering with pain and torture upon the bare boards
+of a wooden platform.
+
+Unhappily for our species, this most odious distemper is contagious, and
+readily communicated from one person to another; nor has it been found
+to yield easily to the power of medicine. It often exists for years, and
+commonly its removal is more the effect of time and regimen than of
+medical treatment.
+
+When a negro is attacked with this cruel disorder, he is separated from
+his fellow-slaves, and sent to the yaw-house to remain until he shall
+recover. Usually it is six, often twelve months, or even more, before he
+is again fit to return amidst the gang. An improved diet, with
+cleanliness, pure air, and sea-bathing are most conducive to his
+recovery; whence it may be inferred that filthiness, and poverty of
+food, are among the occasional causes of the disease. From its
+resemblance to an afflicting malady, but too well known in Europe,
+mercury has been much employed as a remedy, but, unfortunately, with
+very little success.
+
+I may here announce to you that another excursion of a more extensive
+nature has been projected, for the purpose of visiting the planters’
+estates in the remotest parts of the colony; and of proceeding up the
+river even beyond the farthest settlement of the colonists, in order to
+see the Indians in their native dwellings amidst the deep woods. If it
+takes place, I shall endeavour to be one of the party; and shall not be
+the first who will propose to return.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER L.
+
+
+ Berbische, June 28.
+
+How true it is, my friend, that where inclination leads, difficulties
+are easily subdued! After hearing many apprehensions expressed, and
+various obstructing circumstances enumerated, we have performed our
+contemplated expedition, without encountering a single impediment which
+was not readily overcome. This confirms the opinion that most of the
+obstacles which interrupt our minor plans, and even of the mighty
+stumbling-blocks placed in the more important path of life, exist only
+in imagination. In far the majority of cases discretion and prudent
+perseverance might surmount them; but where exertion is required, we are
+too indolent to remove the opposing forms which fancy has created.
+Terrified, or too implicitly yielding to visionary impossibilities, a
+torpid inaction prevents us from examining whether they are phantoms or
+realities, and we forego the advantages of the pursuit, from a
+disinclination to use the efforts which may be required in its
+execution.
+
+In the present instance, if we had listened to the timid counsel of
+those whom fancied difficulties had deterred from engaging in it,
+themselves, we should have neglected making an excursion which has
+afforded us infinite gratification.
+
+But, to our subject. Soon after our visit at Mr. Blair’s, our party was
+formed, and we set off _en quartette_, Captain de Courcy, Captain Webb,
+Lieutenant Mackie, and myself, on our fondly anticipated journey. We had
+a four-oared boat from the fort, with an awning built over the part
+where we sat, which not only protected us from the sun, but also, by
+means of a door and windows, enclosed us as it were in a cabin.
+Sufficient intelligence could not be collected to enable us to fix
+either the limits of our journey or the period of our return. We had,
+therefore, no settled route, but our movements were to be forward or
+retrograde, as we found that pleasure or discomfort attended our path.
+It was completely a _marooning_ adventure. Where to find food, or where
+take rest depended entirely upon chance. Every planter, and every estate
+were alike unknown to us: but we knew that there were plantations, and
+places of abode, upon the borders of the river: we knew, also, that in
+all civilized countries, where strangers are but seldom seen,
+hospitality is a prevailing characteristic of the inhabitants; we became
+intruders, therefore, upon the good-will of the colonists, resolving to
+regulate our proceedings by the information we should acquire, and to
+govern ourselves wholly by events.
+
+Among the obstacles said to present themselves, was that of the period
+of the year being unfavorable; and it was suggested that from the heavy
+rains of the wet season, the river would be swelled, and the current so
+rapid, that the negroes would not be able to row against the stream.
+Upon this account it was pretended that we could go only a very short
+distance each day, and not even that without great labour and fatigue to
+the slaves. If we had not received other more encouraging reports, this
+would have deterred us from the undertaking. It certainly was a
+circumstance that merited consideration, and we found in it an
+additional reason for avoiding every thing like a settled plan. At
+worst, should night chance to overtake us, when no plantation was nigh,
+we should always have the remedy of tying the boat to a tree or a bush
+at the side of the river, and letting the negroes rest until morning.
+
+The principal difficulty that presented itself was our ignorance of the
+Dutch language. It happened that I was the only one of the party who had
+any knowledge of it, and whether I might be sufficiently conversant with
+it to make myself understood was doubtful. However, by a little Dutch, a
+little French, and a little English we trusted we might make our way. We
+established a certain routine of duty, such as directing the slaves,
+presenting the party to strangers, making the necessary arrangements,
+&c.; and agreed that each should take it by turn to be “orderly” for the
+day; thus forming a sort of military _fatigue duty_, which was to fall
+upon each in rotation, according to a settled muster.
+
+To provide for ourselves the comforts, or even the necessaries of the
+journey, was not in our power. Our whole list of stores consisted of a
+cold ham and some bread, with a supply of plantains for the negroes,
+some wine and Hollands, a few bottles of water, and our hammocks.
+
+Thus equipped, we embarked on the morning of Wednesday, June 15, from
+the town of New Amsterdam. We ordered the most intelligent of the
+negroes to assume the post of cockswain, and putting the others to the
+oars, took our departure without having decided where to make even our
+first place of call. Rich estates, commodious houses, and hospitable
+planters, were not deficient about this part of the river; and as we had
+adopted the principle of seeking a home, wheresoever we should find it
+most convenient, we resigned ourselves to the discretion of the slaves,
+desiring them to make a port whenever they might feel themselves
+fatigued, or should find the tide impede their progress. It happened
+that they took us on shore, about two o’clock, at a plantation called
+“Het Pleytanker.” We advanced to the house, without hesitation, and
+introduced ourselves by observing that we were engaged in an excursion
+up the river, and had put in for the purpose of resting the slaves; and
+of learning where we might conveniently take up our quarters for the
+night. We were received with great cordiality by M. Deen, the manager,
+who insisted upon our having dinner before we proceeded further. At
+table we met a Dutch gentleman, named Abbensets, who very kindly invited
+us to accompany him to the plantation “Essendam,” where he was pleased
+to say he should be happy to accommodate us not only for the night, but
+for the morrow, and as long as we could make it convenient to give him
+our company. We hailed this as a fortunate rencontre, as it augured
+favorably respecting the hospitality we might require at the various
+plantations in the course of our journey. We partook of a very good
+dinner at Het Pleytanker, and, soon afterwards, availing ourselves of
+the tide, accompanied M. Abbensets to Essendam, which we found to be one
+of the richest coffee plantations of the colony. The house bespeaks the
+value of the estate, being a spacious building, much superior to any we
+had seen in Berbische, except the governor’s mansion. Nothing could
+exceed the kindness and liberality of M. Abbensets. He entertained us
+with all the cordiality of a friend, and we lamented that, from speaking
+a different language, we were deprived of the full enjoyment of his
+society. M. Abbensets knew only his native tongue, therefore, in
+conversing with him, we were obliged to speak in French through the
+medium of a Mynheer Wohler, a Hanoverian surgeon, to whom we were
+presented on our arrival at Essendam, and who, very obligingly,
+undertook the office of interpreter to both parties. On account of my
+being a medical man, and having some knowledge of the Dutch language, M.
+Wohler mostly addressed himself to me in conversation: as a professional
+brother, I was likewise honored with further attentions, and invited to
+accompany him in a ride round the estate; for which purpose he ordered a
+very excellent horse to be saddled and brought to the door; accordingly,
+leaving the other gentlemen to converse by signs with M. Abbensets, we
+made the tour, not only of Essendam, but also of _Sans Souci_, the
+adjoining plantation under the management of M. J. Abbensets, nephew of
+Mynheer Abbensets of Essendam. Green paths, bordered with luxuriant
+fruit-trees, traverse these estates at various parts, and while they
+form pleasant rides, give a general air of neatness, and add to the
+richness conveyed by the fertile coffee-bushes which spread the fields.
+
+On our arrival at Essendam we were served with tea and coffee, and at
+nine o’clock was set before us a handsome supper of soup, fowls, omelet,
+and many other good things. Madeira and claret wines were amply
+supplied, also Hollands, bottled small beer and porter. At eleven we
+went to our hammocks, congratulating each other on the success of our
+first day’s adventure.
+
+Our intrusions were not barely permitted, but we were treated with the
+most unaffected hospitality, and, in the kind attentions of those we
+visited, we could discover that genuine welcome, which seeks to make the
+stranger feel that in giving his company an obligation is conferred—not
+received.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER LI.
+
+
+ Berbische.
+
+We left Essendam early the following morning, but not without receiving
+additional proofs of attention from Mynheer Abbensets, who kindly
+intreated us to lengthen our present visit, and invited us to make his
+house our home, and remain longer with him on our return. In all the
+generosity of his character he ordered some bottles of wine, and a store
+of provisions to be put into the boat for our use, en route; and,
+likewise, supplied the negroes with a fresh stock of Hollands and of
+plantains. According to the Dutch custom, coffee had been served to us
+as soon as we rose from our hammocks, but we reserved ourselves for a
+more solid breakfast at our next place of call.
+
+This was at one of the sugar plantations of Mr. Blair, on the border of
+the river, nearly opposite to Essendam. Here again warm greetings met us
+at the landing-place. M. Schneider, who has the management of the
+estate, received us with a most friendly welcome; and a breakfast of
+fowls, eggs, and other solids was, presently, set before us. We found M.
+Schneider a very intelligent man, and acquired more information from him
+respecting our journey, than from any other person. He had made a
+similar excursion; but to a far greater extent than we could possibly
+follow him, he having gone many hundred miles up the river. He was
+equipped for the purpose, and attended by a party of Indians as
+conductors, together with a young Indian girl, who had resided among the
+colonists, as interpreter.
+
+The tide serving for us to proceed, we were compelled to make our visit
+at M. Schneider’s much shorter than we could have wished; we had
+therefore barely time to take our breakfast, and accompany the manager
+in a short walk about the estate, in order to see the sugar-works, some
+fine trees of the mango, and a young plantation of the bread-fruit. At
+ten o’clock we resumed our seats in the boat, when M. Schneider kindly
+desired to contribute to our store, some bread, and some rum. We also
+discovered that he had sent on board, without our knowledge, half a
+dozen bottles of very fine porter, of which he had observed us to
+partake, with great enjoyment, at our second breakfast. Instructed by M.
+Schneider, we were to make our next home at Vigilantie, where we arrived
+at seven o’clock in the evening. This was a severe day for the slaves.
+Indeed they were exposed to far more of labour and exertion than we
+should have required of them, but from their own consent to the proposal
+of M. Schneider; who, assuring us that they were fully competent to the
+toil, asked if they could row to Vigilantie that evening? They replied
+in the affirmative, and cheerfully executed the task, arriving in high
+spirits, and smiling when we asked them if they were not sadly tired.
+Except the short time we remained with M. Schneider, we were in the boat
+from half past eight in the morning until seven in the evening. That
+even negroes could support so many hours of heavy and incessant labour
+in such a climate was past our conjecture. The only relief they required
+was to rest, occasionally, for a few minutes, upon their oars; at which
+intervals, although extremely heated, and bathed in perspiration, they
+plunged from the side of the boat into the river, and swam about in
+order to cool themselves, and drive away fatigue. Hazardous as this
+might seem, they did not suffer the slightest inconvenience from it, but
+returned to their oars with renewed spirit and vigour, feeling more
+refreshed, and more delighted with their bathing than with their food,
+or even their beloved grog, which we gave them in very plentiful supply.
+
+The borders of the river offered but little to arrest our attention or
+to gratify our curiosity, so that we were in danger of suffering more
+fatigue from our wearisome confinement, in the boat, than the negroes
+did from the heavier labour of pulling the oars.
+
+We were received with great kindness, and entertained with much
+cordiality, by M. Malsted, but unluckily no person at Vigilantie
+understood any other than the Dutch language; our conversation was
+therefore very limited, being carried on only by signs and broken words.
+The task of interpreter fell to the lot of your friend, and you would
+have been highly diverted could you have seen him occupied throughout
+the evening in repeating a few words of bad Dutch to serve all purposes,
+and explain for all parties.
+
+Desirous to know the mode of life, and to observe the habitations of the
+slaves, as well as of their masters, I did not neglect to make visits to
+the different negro-yards at our various places of call. Pursuant to
+this custom, soon after my arrival at Vigilantie, I took with me one of
+the house negroes, as conductor, and went to view the huts of the
+slaves. In one of them my ebon guide, with great form, begged to
+introduce me to a very fine negress, his sister. I dare not tell you
+what soft overtures were made by this young lady, on my having the honor
+of being presented to her. But, to convey kind hints, seemed equally the
+object of brother and sister. I mention this fact only to show you in
+what light prostitution is viewed by slaves—the brother would feel
+honored in placing the pillow, for his sister, on a _backra_ man’s bed!
+
+In my walk to the negro-yard I met a slave who appeared under a peculiar
+mode of punishment, being compelled to wear an iron collar with three
+long spikes projecting from it, in sharpened points, to the distance of
+eight or ten inches from his person. What crime had led to this strange
+method of punishment I did not learn. The poor man not only suffered the
+annoyance of moving about, loaded with this heavy collar, but he was
+effectually prevented from lying down, and from approaching near to any
+person without the danger of injuring him with the sharp points of his
+iron yoke.
+
+The house at Vigilantie was very inferior to that at Essendam, but we
+found in it good fare, and an honest welcome. Fowls, milk, rice, eggs,
+and various other dishes, were set before us for supper; and we had
+afterwards some very fine Hollands; but as my bad Dutch gave no charms
+to conversation, we retired at an early hour to our hammocks.
+
+The following day was far less fatiguing to us: although equally busy,
+it was broken into more varied succession. We went into the boat between
+three and four o’clock in the morning, in order to avail ourselves of
+the tide, so as to reach the old town of Amsterdam before breakfast. We
+accordingly arrived at seven, in time to take coffee with Mynheer ——, le
+vieux fiscal, with whom we afterwards shared a more solid breakfast à la
+Hollandoise. Our visit was divided between _the fiscal_, and _the
+doctor_ (M. Scholten), both of whom received us with great urbanity, and
+invited us to prolong our stay at the old town.
+
+The fiscal is 61 years of age, and although his youthful days are past,
+he is still active and alert. He walked with us to M. Scholten’s, and
+the different parts of the town, during the morning, and was very
+animated and facetious, meaning to be good company; but sadly fatigued
+us with an incessant flow of senile garrulity. He knew but little
+French, and although he was more fluent in Latin, it was neither
+classical, nor always intelligible. At dinner he took his glass rather
+freely, as we afterwards learned was too commonly his custom. He now
+became officious and troublesome in his attentions, and at length grew
+unpleasant and querulous. He professed a high esteem for the English,
+and his civilities to us had seemed in unison with his professions. He
+drank bumpers to “George the Third and Old England,” but on the health
+of the Stadtholder being given, as we had intended in complimentary
+return, the mask at once fell off, and exposed him in the full character
+of a modern leveller. He raved and swore, called himself a patriot, and
+declared that he was the _firm friend_ of Holland, adding, “_I hope
+again to see Batavia a great nation, for England has not yet conquered
+all the world!_” But still, in loud noise, and with strange
+inconsistency, the poor old man would drown himself in bumpers to George
+III.! It availed nothing to tell him that His Majesty and the
+Stadtholder were friends: he would lose his senses, and sober himself
+again, drinking to the king of England; but nothing, he persisted,
+should ever compel him to _swallow a drop_ to the health of the prince
+of Orange. His nephew, who was present, was very much distressed, and,
+begging us to accept apologies from him, intreated that we would pardon
+the conduct of his uncle, which he attributed to the royal bumpers he
+had taken. We could only regard his effusions as the harmless ravings of
+imbecility, which but served to verify the common adage! Before dinner
+his sentiments were disguised: wine tore away the veil, and in deep
+drinking, the intemperate old man again became a child—was unguarded,
+and ... _spake the truth_!
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER LII.
+
+
+ Berbische.
+
+Mynheer Scholten, although not so advanced in life as the fiscal, has
+been many years in the colony, busily employed in the practice of
+medicine, and acting as chirurgien major to the troops. He has one of
+the best houses in the old town, and all about it wears a degree of
+order, bespeaking much of ease and independence. Madame Scholten
+appeared to be a lively pleasant woman. We took tea with her after
+leaving the angry _vieux_-fiscal. She conversed in good French, and
+seemed inclined to wit and humour. M. Scholten is about to remove, from
+the old town, to New Amsterdam, so that we have a prospect of seeing
+this family added to our circle of society near the fort, which, in this
+thinly inhabited settlement, will be a great acquisition.
+
+Old Amsterdam, as a town, has little more to recommend it, than New
+Amsterdam, which is only now growing into existence; and the latter,
+with regard to commerce, has every advantage of situation; while the
+former, although many years established, has no superiority to claim
+from regular streets, handsome houses, churches or other public
+edifices. We were conducted to one large building, but it was more
+commodious as a strong-built store-house, than ornamental or splendid.
+It was erected at great expense by the Dutch government, as a general
+depôt of stores, only a few years before it was determined to abandon
+the old town; and by this event is rendered, in a great degree, useless.
+
+In our walk about the streets we met with a house inhabited only by
+Indians; also one possessed by a party of manumitted negro women.
+Curiosity led us into both: the latter appeared the cleanest and best
+ordered abode: in the former, the family were lying or sitting about in
+listless indifference, heedless of passing events and occurrences. We
+purchased from them some bows and arrows, and other specimens of Indian
+workmanship. Among the group we remarked a half-naked female, whose face
+and form were very beautiful; and whose fine long jet-black hair
+exhibited the interesting peculiarity of gently waving from the lank
+unyielding straightness so universally observed in the sable tresses of
+the natives of this coast.
+
+On preparing our persons for dinner at the fiscal’s we had an
+opportunity of remarking that the old professional association of
+surgeon and barber so long practised in England was not grown obsolete
+among the Dutch. One of our party, in the indolence of the moment,
+wishing to avoid the trouble of smoothing his own chin, sent into the
+town for a person to shave him. Quickly appeared the hospital-surgeon,
+equipped with a set of chirurgical instruments and tonsoric apparatus.
+He bowed most respectfully, and not ungracefully, on entering the room,
+demanding in Latin, which of us it was, who required his services.
+Struck with his address and the formidable appearance of his case of
+instruments, we imagined that the slave who had been sent to fetch _the
+barber_ had committed some mistake: but, on asking the question, our
+hero of the brush instantly replied, “_Non, domini! Sum
+chirurgo-tonsor!_” then, displaying his razor and basin, assured us that
+he was more attached to the _operative_, than to the other branches of
+his profession. Without further hesitation, therefore, two brave
+officers submitted to be taken by the nose, and underwent _the
+operation_, with much ease and pleasantness, from the dexterous hand of
+Mynheer the _chirurgo-tonsor_; who, during the whole process, conversed
+fluently in Latin, upon medical and various other subjects. His
+education had been liberal, and he was not devoid of information, either
+literary, or professional: yet, from custom, he did not seem to feel any
+sense of humiliation in stooping to the menial office of cleaning
+another man’s chin! Such is the force of habit! What would our English
+knights of the scalpel say were they called upon, in these enlightened
+days, to _shave_ even the most dignified of his majesty’s subjects?
+
+It was within our plan as recommended by M. Malsted, after passing the
+day at Old Amsterdam, to proceed with the evening tide to the estate
+Johanna. We held it a fortunate circumstance, therefore, that we met
+with M. Fenner, at M. Scholten’s, who was from that estate, and who very
+kindly desired to be our conductor to his home, an offer which we most
+gladly accepted. Upon entering the house at Johanna we were presented to
+a party of six white females, Mrs. Fenner and five of her friends. Such
+an assemblage of _backra_ ladies we had not met since our arrival in
+South America: but, unhappily, only the Dutch language was known to
+them, which prevented us from the full enjoyment of their society.
+Johanna also afforded other marks of European resemblance, which are not
+common in the colonies, such as an excellent garden laid out and
+cultivated very much à l’Anglaise; and in the fields a numerous herd of
+cows and oxen. In the garden we saw asparagus, artichokes, turnips,
+cucumbers, carrots, French beans, cabbages, and other European
+vegetables growing in all the vigour of a more temperate climate. The
+various tropical productions were likewise abundant. Some of the walks
+were bordered with the fragrant lime, others were shaded with the
+grateful water-lemon, or the grenadillo; and a general neatness with an
+unusual freedom from weeds prevailed throughout. This well-managed and
+productive spot was cultivated wholly by two hard-working negroes, each
+having only one arm, and hence M. Fenner wittily observed that the
+labour of one man effected it all. This was an uncommon example of
+industry in slaves, for so luxuriant are the weeds and so rapid the
+vegetation in this climate, that it is always difficult to maintain the
+soil in, even, tolerable neatness of appearance: but, here, two single
+arms subdued the obtrusive weeds, and kept the garden in far better
+order than many others we had seen, upon which the time and exertions of
+three or four robust blacks were constantly expended.
+
+In the course of the evening we were conducted to the logis to see the
+slaves who were engaged in the occupation of ginning cotton. The
+building was very extensive, and we were led by way of a gloomy
+staircase to the upper story, where the blacks were all employed in one
+deep room, which ran through the whole length of the logis, and which,
+from the scene suddenly breaking upon us, created strong ideas of the
+fabled regions of old Pluto. The stairs opened at the end of the long
+building, so that on entering the room the eye at once looked down an
+immeasurable depth of glimmering light, through which was obscurely seen
+a multitude of naked black beings, either at rest or skipping about from
+place to place, without our being able to distinguish what was their
+employment. As we approached nearer to them, we found them to be a gang
+of negroes, old and young, robust and feeble, male and female, all
+busily and variously occupied in preparing cotton, by the aid of one
+faint light, suspended in the centre of what would otherwise have seemed
+an interminable gloom. Some were sitting on the floor; some at the
+ginning wheels; some were crouched upon their haunches; others standing,
+and many moving about, each according to the varied employment of
+ginning, of beating and pulling, of fetching and carrying, or of packing
+the cotton. Still we saw none distinctly, not even those immediately
+near to us: and the unusual noise, the various movements of the negroes,
+and the general confusion of the scene, augmented by the feeble light of
+the centre, and the impenetrable darkness at the extremities of the
+place, so powerfully called to mind the dismal abode of queen Proserpine
+and her grim lord, that we could not divest ourselves of the impression.
+
+At supper-time the usual hospitality of the colony was displayed, and a
+generous plenty crowned the board. A party of thirteen took their seats
+at table; where a lively festivity prevailed, until a late hour, when
+the ladies left us, and we retired to our hammocks.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER LIII.
+
+
+ Berbische.
+
+We rose at seven o’clock. Coffee was brought to us on quitting our
+hammocks, and at nine was set before us a more substantial repast. Soon
+afterwards we made our congé to the ladies, and took our departure from
+Johanna. We crossed the river in a boat belonging to M. Fenner, the
+negroes having been sent on with ours early in the morning. To our
+surprise, on reaching the opposite bank, we had to ascend a hill, which
+to a Dutchman might have seemed a mountain; and on arriving at the
+summit of this elevated shore we found slaves and horses, equal in
+number to our party, in readiness to conduct us to Arends, the home of
+Mynheer Paùels. The distance was much shorter by land than by water: our
+negroes, therefore, were sent round with the boat, by way of the river,
+in order to meet us in the evening; while we proceeded on horseback,
+across the woods, and savannas. This change in our mode of travelling
+was planned by M. Fenner, and it not only afforded us a pleasant
+variety, but relieved us from a tedious and uninteresting journey in the
+boat. The first part of our ride was across a wide plain bordered with
+heavy forests, and exhibiting all the rudeness of primitive nature: next
+we traversed the deep woods, by way of a narrow path, following each
+other in the Indian file: then we escaped, again, into an open savanna,
+more varied and interesting than any uncultivated spot we had seen in
+the colony. As we were trotting through the still shades of the forest,
+we perceived that the notes of our conversation became unusually soft,
+and rumbled in gentle murmurs amongst the trees. Struck with this
+unexpected charm of our voices, we were induced to sound the huntsman’s
+call, and the halloo of the chase, in order to observe the melodious
+echo. But we quickly discovered that, however musical and delighting in
+the copses of England, these were calls of danger in the woods of
+Guiana! Our friendly conductor, M. Fenner, instantly took alarm, and
+begging us to desist, desired that we would quicken our pace, and be
+still, lest we should bring down the Bush-negroes; who, if they should
+find themselves able to overpower us, would certainly take off our
+scalps, and perhaps not leave us our heads! Need I say that we were
+obedient to our guide, and rode on in silence?
+
+The accommodations of this day’s journey were quite West Indian: we had
+blacks as footpages holding by the horses’ manes, or their tails; and
+each slave was loaded either with a trunk of clothes upon his head, or a
+bottle of Madeira wine, of rum, or of water in his hand. Imagine to
+yourself the picture of a party of _Europeans_ riding through the wild
+woods and savannas of _South America_, with a body of _African_ slaves
+running at their sides, carrying bottles in their hands, and trunks on
+their heads, and you will have a correct idea of our travelling group.
+The negroes kept pace with us throughout the journey, and were not only
+at hand to give us drink on the road; but were likewise in readiness to
+supply us with dry clothes on our arrival.
+
+At the distance of about nine miles from Johanna, the estate Arends
+opened suddenly to our view, and the scene became unusually varied and
+European. It, in some degree, reminded us of England—a circumstance
+which gave it additional interest, and led us to contemplate it with a
+kind of filial respect. Looking down from high land we saw, below us, a
+rich plantation of coffee, cotton, and cocoa, together with the house
+and home of M. Paùels. On descending from the rude plain to this finely
+improved estate, our road was continued along a fragrant path bordered
+with rows of oranges and pines, which leads across the plantation up to
+the house.
+
+Our reception at Arends was cordial and friendly. We found M. Paùels to
+be a man of liberal education, and of refined manners. The house and
+environs, indeed the whole order of the home, no less than his personal
+address, indicated an improved and cultivated mind. We took dinner, and
+passed a few hours so pleasantly, that we regretted, they could not be
+tenfold multiplied. In the evening, M. Paùels, with his own boat and
+slaves, undertook to conduct the party to M. Heynemann’s, the remotest
+European settlement of the colony. We embarked from Arends on a narrow
+river or creek, which, at a short distance from this estate, falls into
+the great river Berbische. On the point of land, at the angle formed by
+the two streams, is a small battery, and an old established military
+post, which is still kept up by a Dutch guard, or at least the semblance
+of it, formed of a few antiquated invalids.
+
+The journey from the fort to M. Heynemann’s afforded nothing of interest
+or variety. The scenery was a dull sameness of river and forest: wood
+and water overspread by the azure canopy, were all that met the eye. We
+were two hours and a half in the boat, and arrived at M. Heynemann’s
+just as it was growing dark; having completed our expedition from the
+sugar plantation of Mr. Blair, in three days; although we had been told
+at the town that we could not perform it in less than ten. Moreover we
+had effected it with the greatest ease, notwithstanding our having been
+assured, by several persons, that such a journey could not be executed,
+especially in the wet season, without infinite difficulty and fatigue,
+if at all. We felt it singularly fortunate that M. Fenner was of our
+party to M. Heynemann’s, the latter gentleman not speaking any language
+but Dutch, and it being from him, particularly, that we expected to
+acquire a great fund of information, as well regarding the customs and
+manners of the Indians, as respecting the country and its natural
+productions. He had been chosen king, or captain of a band of Indians,
+and having resided for many years among them, was better acquainted with
+their habits and pursuits than any other person in the colony. To him
+they frequently brought presents of whatsoever they esteemed rare or
+curious, and it had been intimated to us that he had accumulated an
+extensive collection of specimens in natural history; also of Indian
+implements and apparatus. We found a number of Indian men and women,
+living in the house with this king of the district. He had also a gang
+of negro slaves; so that the household consisted of a medley of white,
+copper-coloured, and black inhabitants, who were assembled in this
+remote corner, from three different quarters of the globe, the group
+being composed of Europeans, Africans, and native Americans.
+
+The day having been spent in busy occupation, we went to our hammocks
+very soon after supper, in order to rest and recruit ourselves for the
+morrow’s fatigue.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER LIV.
+
+
+ Berbische.
+
+Unwilling to lose my time in sleep, I rose at an earlier hour than my
+comrades, and had the opportunity of inspecting the whole of M.
+Heynemann’s collection before breakfast; also of hearing his
+observations and remarks respecting the Indians, with whom he had long
+been in habits of intimate association. At breakfast Messrs. Fenner,
+Paùels, and Heynemann planned our journeyings for the two or three
+succeeding days, informing us that we might have an opportunity of
+seeing numbers of the inhabitants of the forest in their native
+dwellings, in the environs of an old estate, called Savonette, about
+twenty miles higher up the river; and remarking that, according to the
+nature of our expedition, we should be unable to proceed further with
+any prospect of comfort or gratification. We could not oppose the
+opinions of these gentlemen; therefore, embracing their proposal, we
+agreed to pursue our journey to Savonette with the evening tide, and
+after visiting an Indian village, and the other curiosities of the spot,
+to return to M. Heynemann’s.
+
+The morning was pleasantly spent in examining the collection of Indian
+curiosities, and of specimens in natural history; but more especially in
+hearing M. Heynemann relate his adventures among the men and women of
+the woods; whom he termed _Bucks_ and _Buckeen_, these being the names
+commonly given to them in the colonies. We were also amused by seeing M.
+Heynemann and one of the Indians shoot with their common bow and arrow,
+and blow the poisoned arrow at a mark, from its tube. The accuracy of
+the Bucks, in using both these weapons, was described to us as being
+minute almost to a wonder. The common arrow employed in their wars, or
+for the purpose of killing game, is nearly six feet long, made of a
+peculiarly straight and fine reed, without a knot or inequality in its
+whole length, and strengthened at the point with a piece of sharpened
+bone, having a barb at one side. At the shaft it is furnished on each
+side with a piece of cut feather, in order to steady it in its flight.
+Sometimes a thin piece of hard wood, pointed, and cut in many notches at
+the sides, is fastened to the reed, and forms the end of the arrow: but
+those who have mixed with the colonists, for the most part arm the
+extremity with a sharp piece of steel. The arrows used for striking fish
+are forked, having three iron points, with a barb near the end of each,
+the middle point projecting considerably beyond the others. The bow is
+usually two or three inches longer than the arrow, and when strung, is
+not, at its greatest curvature, bent more than an inch and a half from
+the cord. Various kinds of wood are used for the bows, the most
+beautiful of which is called letter-wood, a name which it has obtained
+from its peculiarly marked appearance, being richly mottled, as if
+stained by art, and somewhat resembling the skin of a snake. The string
+is made of the silk-grass, and is remarkably strong. An Indian can hit a
+chicken with tolerable certainty, at nearly a hundred yards distance. He
+is very particular respecting his arrow, and examines it with great
+care, in order to ascertain that it is perfectly straight, before he
+attempts to use it. His attitude, when pulling the bow, is highly
+graceful, and exhibits the human figure to much advantage.
+
+The arrow which the Bucks are in the habit of poisoning is made of a
+light hard wood. It is about ten or twelve inches long, and of the
+thickness of an oat straw. It is blunt at one end, and cut to a point at
+the other, that which is sharpened being dipped in the poison. The
+manner of using it is by blowing it from a cylindrical tube, about seven
+feet in length. A bit of cotton is lightly put in at one extremity of
+the tube, the arrow is dropped in at the other, and falls to the cotton;
+the lips are then applied, and the arrow is forced forward by a sudden
+puff, or jerk of the breath, and is thus shot to the distance of eight
+or ten yards with surprising accuracy. So expert are some of the Bucks
+in the use of this tube, that at twelve or fourteen feet distance, they
+will strike the arrow almost to a certainty upon the edge of a penknife
+stuck on the back of a chair. The tube is made of a species of reed, and
+they are very careful in preserving it. Indeed, from the difficulty of
+finding it perfectly straight, a good one becomes highly valuable to
+them, and its worth is enhanced by an idle fancy which prevails among
+them regarding the cutting of the reed. It commonly grows in wet places,
+or wide stagnant marshes; and superstition has stationed an evil spirit
+to defend it, whence the Indians have the apprehension that some ill
+must befal him who ventures in to procure the reed. This weakness has
+probably originated from some of them having been injured by alligators
+or serpents—evil beings which commonly inhabit such-like places.
+
+We asked many questions respecting the poison used upon the arrows, but
+M. Heynemann did not seem to have possessed himself of the secret. He
+described it as a compound of the juices of three different plants; but
+he had not correctly ascertained the mode of preparing it; nor do we
+learn that it has ever been formed by any European; although some
+travellers have described it with a degree of precision, which might
+seem to imply a full and correct knowledge of its composition. It is a
+vegetable extract, and we are informed that it is unquestionably
+prepared from several different plants, sometimes more, and sometimes
+fewer in number, but whether, in either case, all that are used are
+necessary to the efficacy of the poison is a dubious question. Its fatal
+effects are certain and almost instantaneous, provided the minutest
+particle of it mixes with the blood. You already know that a quantity of
+this poison has been carried to England, and that experiments, made with
+it in London, have proved the rapidity and certainty with which it
+destroys animal life.
+
+M. Heynemann gave us a plentiful dinner, and sweetened its flavour with
+an unaffected welcome. He expressed himself much gratified that we had
+made so long a journey to visit him; and confirmed his professions by
+his obliging conduct, and his bounty in entertaining us. In the
+afternoon we lost our kind conductors, M. Paùels, and M. Fenner, who
+left us in order to return to their respective homes, but not until they
+had earnestly enjoined us to repeat our visits at Arends, and at
+Johanna, on our way down the river. Being thus deprived of our friendly
+interpreters, M. Heynemann sought to remedy the evil by calling to our
+aid an old non-commissioned officer, who had acquired a knowledge of our
+language, from having been in the English service during the American
+war. Attended by this aged soldier, we set off by six o’clock in the
+evening for Savonette, the late home of M. Heynemann, where he had long
+resided amidst whole tribes of Indians, and received honors as their
+captain or chief. Under his direction, many of them had been taught to
+labour, and although without much of industry, the plantation Savonette
+had been cultivated principally by the _Bucks_. Studious to promote our
+comfort, the generous Heynemann had put into our boat some food, drink,
+candles, and other necessaries for the journey. One of our party being
+seized with a fit of affection for a _handsome Indian specimen_ which he
+had seen, pleaded _sickness_, and declined proceeding with us to
+Savonette: but the _major domo_ discovering the nature of his complaint,
+pleaded, in his turn, the necessity of _attending the sick_, and
+remained behind likewise, _in order to administer_ the kind offices of
+_hospitality_.
+
+The effect of the tide, so far from the sea, was very inconsiderable,
+and scarcely sufficed to counteract the current of the river: hence this
+stage of our journey became a heavy labour to the slaves. The day soon
+closed in, and being enveloped on each side by the impenetrable gloom of
+the forest, we moved slowly along the limpid surface, amidst all the
+solemn stillness of night. It was two o’clock in the morning when we
+reached the Indian plantation (if so I may term), Savonette, having been
+nearly eight hours in the boat, and much of the time in the dark. This
+was a sadly tedious sitting, but we were relieved from the fatigue of
+it, part of the time, by lighting a candle, and amusing ourselves with
+our books.
+
+We regretted the lateness of our arrival the less, on account of its
+affording us an opportunity of seeing some of the Indians as they were
+sleeping in their hammocks, and observing their manner of disposing
+themselves to rest for the night.
+
+On quitting the boat, we ascended what, in this country, might be called
+a hill, and proceeded to the house formerly occupied by M. Heynemann,
+which is situated upon a more sound and dry soil than is common on the
+borders of this river. Near to the water was an Indian hut, built like
+the common sheds of England, the roof only being covered, and the sides
+left entirely open. Desirous of witnessing their mode of sleeping in
+their native dwellings, we made no calculations of peril, on the score
+of unexpectedly disturbing these rude inhabitants of the woods in the
+night; but without hesitation, entered the house, and advanced, with our
+light, close up to their hammocks. In the middle of the hut was burning
+a small fire of wood, immediately over which were suspended three
+hammocks, made of the bark of a tree, and open like net-work. Two were
+placed abreast very near to the fire, and the third directly above the
+others. In one of the lower was lying a naked Indian man: over the sides
+of the others were hanging several legs and arms, and two heads, which
+we discovered to belong to a boy and a woman, who were lying naked
+together in the same hammock: in the upper one was another man with his
+long legs projecting out, soliciting his share of influence from the
+fire below: but, from the breeze being freely admitted at the sides of
+the hut, it was manifest that the fire was more intended to protect them
+from insects, than to add to the heat of this almost equatorial climate.
+We rambled about until three o’clock, availing ourselves of this moment
+of unexpected visitation, to gratify ourselves with all the variety in
+our reach. We looked into every hut we met with, and observed the above
+to be the common mode of taking rest for the night. It was matter of
+surprise to us to find how little these people were incommoded by our
+sudden, and nocturnal appearance among them. They expressed no concern
+at our presence, nor evinced the slightest apprehension or curiosity
+regarding us. Not so with Vandyke, a hardy Dutch soldier, whom M.
+Heynemann had stationed at Savonette, as a kind of manager, and deputy
+post-holder, in order to take charge of the estate, and maintain a
+friendly intercourse with the naked inhabitants of the _Bush_. This man,
+like the _Bucks_ themselves, was living almost in a state of nature. The
+natives of the forest were his only companions, and from some of his
+habits, it might have seemed that, in their society, he had forgotten
+the duties of civilization: yet, in his general conduct, he was
+attentive and respectful, and appeared to possess the soft feelings of
+humanity. No European resided nearer to him than at M. Heynemann’s, and
+the few, who were there, he seldom saw; nothing therefore could exceed
+his surprise, on waking in the dead of the night, and finding a party of
+officers, armed, and in scarlet uniform, standing at his bedside. You
+will imagine that it was with difficulty he gave credit to his senses,
+or believed that he was actually awake. Although I carefully remarked
+the expression of his countenance, his incoherent replies, and all his
+agitated movements, you will better conceive the effect of such a visit
+upon his mind than it is possible for the pen to describe it. Vandyke’s
+bed, like the couch of the Indians, was a simple hammock, and only
+differed from theirs, in being made of cotton instead of the bark of a
+tree. In another hammock close at his side, was lying a naked Indian
+woman, whom he had selected from the woods as his wife. She appeared to
+be ill, and we were led to ask some questions regarding the means of
+procuring her medical relief, when Vandyke, with an air of nonchalance,
+instantly replied, “Och! als zy ziek is, moet ik eene andere hebben,”
+which may be thus translated, “when she grows sick, I turn her into the
+woods and take another.”
+
+Vandyke was too much astonished at our unexpected appearance, as well as
+too much a soldier, to remain quietly in his hammock, while he saw a
+party of officers unprovided; he rose, therefore, very quickly, and,
+conducting us to the best room he had, set before us such fare, as his
+scanty means enabled him to collect, and kindly bade us welcome; then
+pointed out to us some hooks, whereon to suspend our sleeping births for
+the remainder of the night. Our chamber very much resembled an old barn.
+The repast presented by Vandyke was cassada bread, with Hollands and
+water: but the hospitality of M. Heynemann had prevented us from being
+thrown upon the humble fare of Savonette—compared to which our boat was
+a luxurious larder.
+
+The convenience of hammocks was never greater, nor more striking than
+upon this occasion. In such an apartment beds or mattresses would have
+been objects of terror to us, but suspended in our netting, we lay in
+comfort, bidding defiance to lizards, thick cobwebs, dirt, vermin, and
+all other annoyances.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER LV.
+
+
+ Berbische.
+
+Eager anticipation tracing in my mind all that we were to see, hear, and
+acquire at Savonette, I had scarcely closed my eyes before it was time
+again to open them. The period allowed to us, by the arrangements of
+Messrs. Heynemann, Fenner, and Paùels, was very limited; fearing,
+therefore, to lose the smallest portion of the allotted hours, I was up
+and abroad before my companions. It was seven o’clock. Vandyke had risen
+with the sun, and now came to offer himself to our command. Our
+non-commissioned interpreter was also ready, and obedient to our will.
+As soon as my comrades left their hammocks, we took our breakfasts of
+coffee and cassada bread; and, without further delay, set forth into the
+woods, in search of the Indian town; to visit which was the great
+purpose of our journey to Savonette.
+
+Entering the forest, the first thing that attracted our notice was a
+cluster of wild pines, growing ten or twelve feet high. Our path was
+good. Although pleasantly shaded at each side, it was not so narrow as
+to confine us to the usual Indian file. It more resembled the open
+ridings which embellish the woods of England. The scene was new; and
+every object created a lively interest. Expectation was ardent, and on
+the point of being gratified. It was a walk of nearly a mile to the
+Indian town. Feeling anxious to avoid every possible cause of offence,
+we begged of Vandyke to instruct us in such rules of conduct, as it
+might be proper to maintain towards the naked tribe; but he did not
+consider any precautions necessary: being himself familiar with these
+natives of the woods, he left us to our own discretion, and assured us a
+civil, if not a polite reception. On our arrival he led us directly into
+the simple buildings which are used for houses. No ceremony was
+observed: neither rapping at the door, nor ringing at the bell was
+required. “Parlez au Suisse” offered no impediment, nor delay. Vandyke
+advanced, and the party was at once amidst the family. You will believe
+that our attention was active. Not a house, a hut, or a hammock escaped
+us. Not an article of furniture, not an implement, or utensil; not a
+step of ground; not a movement, or a look of any inhabitant was
+disregarded. We hunted through every corner and place, taking up some
+things in our hands, inspecting others, and assailing Vandyke with
+questions concerning all. The _Bucks_ were gone into the forest to cut
+wood, the _Buckeen_ and their children being left at home. Most of the
+women were engaged in one part or other of the process of preparing the
+poisonous cassada into food. Wishing to see them in their different
+employments, we hastened from hut to hut in the idea of coming upon
+them, before their occupations were interrupted by the surprise which we
+thought it probable might be excited, from the unexpected arrival of a
+party of clothed strangers, among them. But on this head we need have
+had no anxiety. Not an individual suffered any interruption from our
+presence. The curiosity, by which we were actuated, was in no degree
+reciprocal; for scarcely did any one take the trouble even to look
+towards us! We passed through their huts, and around their persons, in a
+manner unnoticed; and they continued at work, or unemployed, precisely
+as we found them! Whether on their legs, whether seated, or lying in
+their hammocks, so they remained; no observable change being induced by
+our visit.
+
+Added to other gratifications it was in part our object to collect
+specimens of natural production, or of Indian workmanship. In our varied
+assemblage, was a small and beautiful little animal, called the
+lion-monkey; also a Laba, which in appearance somewhat resembles the
+hare. Its flesh is esteemed the most delicious food of the country; the
+taste of it approaches to a mixed flavour of the hare, and very delicate
+pork. It is dressed without casing; the skin being considered the
+favorite part. This is very thick, and in cooking becomes gelatinous,
+like the calves head, or turtle. The Indians scald off the hair or fur,
+then cut the body in pieces, and stew it in cassada juice, seasoning it
+very highly with capsicum. Thus prepared, it is extremely good, and if
+it could be had in London, might form a dish not unworthy the notice of
+a mansion-house purveyor.
+
+Many fine bows and arrows were among the collection which we procured at
+this forest village. In one of the huts I fixed my eye upon a small pair
+which appeared to be extremely delicate, of exquisite workmanship, and
+by far the finest specimen of the kind we had met with. I wished to show
+them to my friends in England; and, taking them into my hand, resolved
+to purchase them if possible. But I was disappointed, by an unexpected
+circumstance, which very much interested me, and which I shall ever
+remember with pleasure. Holding the bow and arrow to the naked woman of
+the house, I was about to offer money, my pocket-handkerchief, or my
+neck-cloth in exchange for them; when a little copper-skinned urchin,
+almost covered with long black hair, broke out in such piteous
+bewailings, that (although to have had them I would have given almost
+any article of my apparel) I was, at once, diverted from every thought
+of possessing them. I felt that no terms could induce me to take them,
+if at the expense of the tears, and broken-hearted lamentations of the
+young archer to whom they belonged. Still I own that I was cruel enough
+to prolong the little rogue’s cries and fears, by an experiment upon the
+mother. I wished to ascertain the sentiments of an inhabitant of the
+rude forest upon such an occasion; and to observe what would be the
+conduct exhibited under the circumstances of a son’s distress; I
+persevered, therefore, in my seeming attempts to prevail on the woman to
+let me have the bow and arrow: but she was true to nature; and her
+child’s happiness was the first object of her parent-breast! No offer—no
+inducement could tempt her to barter her son’s peace. If her dear
+infant’s peace was to be the price, nothing was adequate—nothing could
+compensate! The little distressed boy hung about my knees—ran to his
+mother—held up an imploring hand—and uttered sad cries of affliction. I
+resisted, for a time, the impulse of my feelings—displayed to the woman
+my handkerchief, and my pocket-book—offered her money—tried to sooth her
+son, and feigned every means of persuasion: but all in vain! She
+remained inflexible! Her child was unhappy, and with his comfort there
+could be no compromise. It was enough! The experiment was made; and I
+was delighted to find that in the wild woods the sacred laws of nature
+were not subordinate to all-subduing interest.
+
+I had no desire further to tantalize the little weeping fellow, or his
+affectionate mother, therefore gave him the bow and arrow, and made him
+happy—compensating the affliction I had caused him, by the
+pocket-handkerchief which I had offered as the purchase of his arms. His
+grief instantly vanished; but he flew to his mother, and, clinging to
+her, did not again venture from her side, whilst we remained in the hut.
+
+Further examples occurred to us evincing the powerful operation of the
+affections among these uncivilized people. One of the women pointed out
+to our observation the grave of her son; a youth who had destroyed
+himself because the mother of a young _buckeen_, of whom he was
+enamoured, could not be prevailed upon to let him take her daughter for
+his wife. Thus the wily Cupid would seem to wield his bow with equal
+prowess amidst the simple beings of the forest, as among the more
+pampered swains of crowded society. The son of our afflicted buckeen was
+young, and his attachment as pure as it was ardent and disinterested.
+Without the adored object of his affections life was insupportable, and
+he resolved not to survive the disappointment: deprived of his heart’s
+choice, existence lost all its charms, and he yielded himself a victim
+to despair! These rude people honored the sentiment. In sad grief his
+parents deplored their loss, and the inhabitants of every hut lamented
+the fate of the youthful lover. An additional instance of natural
+affection and attachment occurred in the solemn observance paid to his
+remains, which as an ever-dear and sacred deposit, were entombed within
+the chamber where his afflicted parents dwelt!
+
+Like all other tribes, who are ignorant of the comforts and conveniences
+of civilization, the Indians of Guiana procure their food from the
+rivers, the sea, and the forests. They have no animals domesticated, nor
+any grain or roots, except the cassada, brought into cultivation; and
+hence they depend very much upon the fortune of the chase for
+subsistence. A small species of deer, called _wirrebocerra_, the laba,
+and the armadillo are among the animals they most esteem. Crabs and
+various kinds of fish are also much used, particularly the former, which
+they find in great abundance in the muddy margins of the rivers;
+especially at the parts where they open into the sea. When fortunate in
+the chase, they indulge their natural indolence by lying in their
+hammocks, most of the time, until their provisions are expended: and
+when the supply obtained by the bow and arrow is less plentiful, or when
+their hunt in the woods happens to prove unsuccessful, they find a
+resource in crabs and cassada, which may be considered their staple
+articles of consumption. Indeed the latter may be called their _staff of
+life_, for it offers a resource when they fail in the chase, and becomes
+to them what plantains are to the negroes of these colonies, or potatoes
+to Irish peasants. Being the only vegetable they cultivate, it is
+usually planted, in a rough and irregular manner, near to their huts.
+Very commonly they prepare their food in the form of pepper-pot; their
+favorite dishes being crabs, or laba, stewed with cassada juice, and
+seasoned extremely hot with red pepper.
+
+I can give testimony to both of these being very rich and good; perhaps
+in point of flavour the pepper-pot of crabs claims the preference; but
+either might be a feast for an epicure. In one of the huts we saw part
+of an armadillo, which had been broiled or roasted in its shell. In
+appearance and taste it was not very unlike young pig. Water is their
+common drink, but they sometimes use a fermented liquor called
+_piworree_, which they make from cassada. This is intoxicating, and has
+some resemblance to beer.
+
+The huts are usually constructed like that which we saw near the
+landing-place at Savonette. I hope to show you a model of them on my
+return, having the promise of one, made by the _Bucks_, with furniture
+complete. At the village some of the huts were closed in at the ends;
+others were left entirely open. The roofs were neatly thatched with the
+leaf of the coco-nut or the mountain-cabbage. Near to the cabins that
+were inhabited, we observed a detached building enclosed on all sides,
+forming a single room, into which light and air were only admitted at
+the door-way. Upon inquiry we learned that this was devoted to the use
+of the sick—not as an hospital, but as a temple of incantation, for the
+purpose of expelling disease. Their superstition leads them to attribute
+sickness to witchcraft, or the visitation of some evil spirit like the
+Obeah of the Africans; and having faith in spells, they make little
+decorated instruments, of tender rushes about a foot long, which the
+physicians, or priests called _Pyeis_, employ, together with other
+magical implements, as wands to drive out these demons of ill, which
+they term _Yowahoos_. The Pyei is thought to possess a peculiar
+influence over the Yowahoo; and by means of dissimulation, and
+superstitious forms, the sick and his friends are made to believe that
+he holds an intercourse with him, previous to removing the effect of his
+malign visitation from his patients. The building seems better
+calculated for their more natural remedy, the hot or vapour bath, which
+they contrive by throwing water upon a large heated stone, and
+enveloping the sick person in the steam.
+
+Around the village the wood had been partially cleared away, and the
+scenery of this interesting spot was much improved by several cows
+coming out of the thick part of the forest to browse about the open
+space. They were the produce of a herd originally brought by M.
+Heynemann to Savonette.
+
+After having gratified our curiosity by a long visit, and a minute
+inspection of every thing worthy of notice at the Indian town, we were
+led, through a close and narrow path, devoid of any turning, either to
+the right hand or the left, into the profoundest shades of the forest.
+The way was difficult, and we were compelled to follow each other in
+single file, throughout the whole length of our walk; which, from the
+closeness of the wood, the narrowness of the path, and the consequent
+defection of the breeze, was distressingly hot and oppressive. The
+object from which we were to expect compensation was ... _a tree_! We
+had strong apprehensions that the sight of it might not be an adequate
+reward for so fatiguing a walk, but we had thrown ourselves upon the
+judgment of Vandyke, desiring him to conduct us to all that might be
+gratifying to strangers; we therefore marched on, in tacit obedience,
+relying upon his guidance; and our perseverance was amply recompensed by
+viewing the great chief of the forest—an enormous tree of the
+Tonquin-bean, which appears in lofty and majestic trunk, extending its
+high-exalted foliage above the hosts of aspiring rivals that surround
+it. The body forms an immense perpendicular pillar rising to the height
+of 70 or 80 feet before it throws out a shoot or a bud, then spreading
+its wide-expanded branches in proud canopy, so elevated as to protect
+from the reach, and even to conceal from the eye, the nuts which contain
+its sweet-scented beans. Viewing this huge tree with regard to its
+straight and perpendicular trunk, its immense bulk, and, above all, its
+prodigious height, it may be considered as one of the finest specimens
+of vegetable production growing on the face of the globe. In beauty and
+grandeur it is equalled only by the stately mountain-cabbage, whose
+noble trunk, and fine palmated foliage, stand unrivalled in the
+vegetable world.
+
+The trees grow to a size, in these forests, not easily to be imagined by
+persons who have seen only those of the more temperate climate of
+Europe. They are tall and stately, and contain a great proportion of
+timber, in consequence of running up to an immense height before they
+throw off their branches. It is often difficult, and not unfrequently
+impossible to reach their fruit, or foliage. The Tonquin-bean tree, when
+growing out of the forest, seldom attains to this grandeur of form: it
+branches off at a shorter distance from the ground, and in its growth
+more resembles the English ash; the bark is somewhat like the poplar,
+and the leaves resemble those of the pear. The one we saw had been drawn
+up to an unusual height, by growing in a crowd, and was indebted to
+health and years for its extraordinary bulk. The nuts containing the
+fragrant beans are abundantly plentiful in the forest, and may be picked
+up in bushels under the trees, at a certain season of the year. While we
+were gazing at this vegetable giant, Vandyke cut on its bark the
+initials of our names, and the date of our visit: this necessary
+ceremony being duly performed, we trod our way back, by the narrow path,
+to the residence of our friendly guide, and there, most gladly, made a
+resting-place. But Vandyke was allowed no respite, for we still beset
+him with hosts of questions. When he had satisfied our inquiries, and we
+learned that Savonette offered no further novelty, we resumed our seats
+in the boat, and returned to the abode of the hospitable Heynemann.
+Vandyke presented us with a young Kiwihi, an animal which bears some
+resemblance to a pig, and is about the size of a large cat, having a
+very long tail, marked with alternate rings of black and white hair. He
+also gave us several specimens of Indian implements, most of which I
+hope to bring to England. Some of the Indians followed us to the
+water-side, and put into our boat large baskets filled with fine
+water-lemons, which they had gathered from the woods.
+
+On our quitting the shore Vandyke honored our departure with the firing
+of cannon. He was a soldier, and in addition to other civilities, felt a
+pride in showing to officers, who visited him, every mark of military
+respect. We were the more pleased with the compliment, as it afforded us
+an unexpected opportunity of hearing the enchanting echo from the
+forest.
+
+We were in time to take a late dinner with Mynheer Heynemann, and in the
+evening, according to the plan laid down for us, we proceeded to Arends.
+M. Paùels was from home, but we found the best arrangements of the
+family ordered for our accommodation. We were sumptuously entertained by
+a young gentleman, the friend of M. Paùels; and at night were conducted
+to very excellent bed-chambers, fitted up more in the style of European
+accommodation than any we had seen in the colony.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER LVI.
+
+
+ Berbische.
+
+The generous Heynemann appeared much gratified by the satisfaction we
+expressed ourselves to have experienced in our visit at Savonette, and
+in our acknowledgments of the civil attentions of his deputy, Vandyke.
+He was particularly pleased at the interest which he said I seemed to
+take “respecting every object, and every circumstance in this remote
+part of the world,” and so devoted himself to the means of indulging me,
+that I was compelled peremptorily to arrest the liberal hand with which
+he would have bestowed multiplied marks of his favor—to the injury, and
+almost the extinction of his own collection. At first I had freely
+pronounced my admiration of such things as were calculated to call it
+forth, but I soon discovered, that to admire what I saw was to tax his
+liberality; for if he only heard me breathe approval, or but perceived,
+by my eye, that I liked any specimen, it was instantly mine. He gave me
+samples of various gums, nuts, and woods employed in medicine by the
+Indians, also crystals, bows and arrows, Indian paddles, musical
+instruments, instruments of war, implements of household furniture, used
+by the _Bucks_, and a variety of other curiosities: indeed, if I could
+have persuaded myself to have taken all that he offered me, I might have
+fitted up a small museum; but I could not reconcile the idea of
+trespassing upon such kindness, and therefore positively refused many
+specimens of which I observed that he had no duplicates, and which I
+felt it possible he might afterwards lament. He was equally liberal in
+all his attentions, and seemed desirous to explain to me whatever I
+wished to ask. You will believe that I had less reserve in my questions,
+than in the acceptance of his offerings, and that I was happy to call
+forth the observations and remarks derived from his long and familiar
+intercourse with the Indians. At his present abode, and at Savonette he
+had resided, during many years, in the appointment of post-holder,
+having constant intercourse with the Indians, and forming the connecting
+link between them and the colonists.
+
+It was the policy of the Dutch government to expend a certain sum
+annually in the purchase of blue cloth, beads, ribands, hatchets, and
+other implements, and ornaments to give to the Indians; and it was made
+the duty of the person placed at the most remote estate of the colony,
+to associate with them, and to cultivate their friendship, in order to
+prevent acts of hostility on their part, and to secure to the colonists
+the peaceable possession of the territory which they had appropriated.
+Hence, from situation and appointment, as well as from natural
+disposition, abundant opportunities had offered to M. Heynemann of
+intermixing freely with the Indians, and observing their most retired,
+as well as their more exterior habits. Possessed of enterprising
+talents, and a certain hardihood of mind and frame, together with
+affable and conciliatory manners, he was peculiarly qualified for the
+trust which had been so long confided to him. He associated with the
+_Bucks_, adopted their customs, insinuated himself into their good
+opinion, and became so entirely one of themselves, that at Savonette
+they elected him their chief or king; and he could, at any time,
+assemble them in a body of several hundreds, in military array, and
+appear as captain at their head.
+
+This was a novelty which he offered to exhibit to us, if we would
+consent to prolong our visit, or would repeat it, giving him only a few
+days notice of our coming. I regretted extremely that it could not be in
+my power to accept either of these proposals. It was a high compliment
+offered to us, and what I should have particularly enjoyed; but I had
+only a short time to remain at Berbische, and dared not hope for another
+long absence.
+
+M. Heynemann is a person of great zeal, activity and exertion. With
+considerable penetration, he possesses much of perseverance, but, from
+the want of a liberal education, his observations, though valuable, are
+loose and undigested—devoid of arrangement and scientific correctness;
+and evidently not the result of any systematic train of inquiry.
+Governed by chance, and with no specific object in view, his pursuits
+and remarks are not so conducted as to promote, essentially, the
+advancement of natural science; but, a man of high literary acquirements
+would be less fitted perhaps for the post which M. Heynemann has so long
+filled with credit to himself, and advantage to the colony. I should
+have been much gratified to have prolonged our visit, and with regret
+bade adieu to this generous chief of the naked tribes.
+
+Although, from my short stay among them, you cannot expect an elaborate
+disquisition upon the subject of the native possessors of these
+extensive forests, you will demand a passing word on such prominent
+points, concerning them, as more immediately strike the eye. I may
+therefore tell you that the Indians who inhabit this part of the South
+American coast are of four tribes or nations, the Arrouwacs, the
+Accawaus, the Warrous, and the Charibbees. The Charibbees, or Charibs,
+as they are more frequently called, are the tallest men, and of the most
+warlike aspect. Those we have seen of the other tribes are rather short,
+but in general well formed; although their figure denotes more of
+substance than of gracefulness. They are of a bright bay colour, their
+hair jet black, long, and straight. In common they are rather
+personable, and their features are more indicative of mildness than
+ferocity; for, although in some of them the lines of the Tartar face may
+be traced, the character more generally denoted by the countenance is
+that of gentleness and tranquillity. The eyes are very black, they are
+small, distant from each other, and deep in the orbits. The cheek-bones
+stand a little wide, but they are not strongly prominent; the forehead
+tends to squareness of form, and the eyebrows are heavy. The nose,
+though not decidedly aquiline, when viewed in profile somewhat
+approaches that shape; the mouth is of middle size; the lips of moderate
+thickness; the teeth small, white and regular; the chin round; the
+angles of the lower jaw somewhat wide: from all which you will perceive
+that the face is rather broad than round, although the contour
+approaches more to the circular than the long or oval. We did not
+observe among them any resemblance of the flat nose, the wide mouth,
+thick lips, or large teeth of the negroes.
+
+Their necks are thick, and for the most part not sufficiently long to be
+graceful. The chest is high and full; the shoulders square, going off at
+nearly right angles from the neck. The limbs are fleshy and robust. Upon
+the whole, they may be said to be of the figure usually denominated
+square-made, and consequently their form denotes more of strength, than
+of gracefulness or agility. Still there is a difference between them and
+the strong-marked muscular subjects of colder and more mountainous
+regions. Among the Indians of Guiana, the rough lines denoting strength
+are concealed in consequence of the interstices between the muscles
+being so filled with fat as to give a general smoothness to the surface;
+and from the same cause, the fine action of the different muscles
+becomes less obvious, when they are in motion, or under any exertion.
+Hence, although an Indian be square, full, and robust, still his
+appearance does not convey precisely that idea of strength which
+attaches to the rough and muscular frames of the North; and yet his form
+is _more unlike_ that of the negroes.
+
+It has happened to me to have frequent opportunities of seeing parties
+of Indians, and of Africans standing naked together, and I have always
+remarked a striking distinction in their persons. The negroes have
+longer necks, and a finer fall of the shoulder. Their chest is not so
+full and open. The limbs are not so stout, but thinner, and longer in
+proportion to the body. The form of the Indians appears close and
+compact, while that of the negroes is more loose and slender, and more
+indicative of the languor arising from the heat of climate. The
+projecting curvature of the tibia, so common to the Africans, does not
+prevail among the Indians. The difference of countenance is still more
+remarkable than the difference of form; but, as the negro face is
+familiar to you, I need not enter into a more minute detail of the
+discordant features.
+
+The Indians wear no clothing, except a band tied round the waist and
+brought between the legs to fasten before; such as I have mentioned to
+be in use among the negroes of these colonies. This is worn both by the
+men and women. Some, who have visited the colonists, have it made of
+blue cloth: but those who have not had the same opportunities of
+procuring cloth, make it of the bark of a tree. Sometimes, instead of
+this band, the women use a small apron about three or four inches
+square, which being tied round the waist, and left to hang loose before,
+serves by way of a _fig-leaf_. These aprons they call _kways_. Among
+those who have associated with the colonists, the kway is occasionally
+made of small beads of different colours, ingeniously put on threads of
+cotton, or of the silk-grass, so as to give the apron the appearance of
+being woven in a variety of figures. This is used as high dress, and is
+much valued. It happened that I, one day, met a young buckeen, thus
+ornamented, walking with her mother, and, being desirous to add a sample
+of the kway to my collection of specimens, I made signs to the parent,
+meaning to ask if she could procure me one; when, without the slightest
+hesitation, she took off that which was before my eyes, and presented it
+to me: the young lady very modestly, but without blushes, supplying its
+place with the pocket-handkerchief which I gave her in exchange.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER LVII.
+
+
+ Berbische.
+
+From the inactivity of the Indians they are generally seen to be
+_enbonpoint_, and this, as I remarked before, gives them a certain
+equality of form, and of surface; but their skins have not that velvet
+softness so common to the negroes. Their bodies are peculiarly free from
+hair. Possessing an idea, that it is more becoming not to have any
+hairs, except upon the head, they are in the habit of pulling them out
+from the chin, the breast, the armpits, and other parts. The general
+smoothness, thus given to the surface, has led some travellers, who have
+been ignorant of the cause, into the error of considering this to be
+their natural appearance; and hence have arisen the strange opinions
+that they differed from Europeans, and were in this respect a peculiar
+race of the human species. The instrument used for eradicating the hairs
+is a small piece of wood partially split. Those who intermix with the
+colonists often employ a bit of wire, twisted into a spiral form.
+
+From the heat of the climate, and the facility of procuring food, the
+Indians of Guiana are naturally indolent. In every quarter of the globe
+the great incentive to industry is either necessity, interest, or
+ambition. Labour, simply as such, is no where a natural impulse. It is
+the effect of our real, or imaginary wants. Among the natives of these
+woods, it springs from necessity alone, and ceases with the immediate
+occasion which calls it forth. They have no interest in the accumulation
+of property; and therefore do not labour in order to obtain wealth. They
+live under the most perfect equality, and hence are not impelled to
+industry by that spirit of emulation, which, in society, leads to great
+and unwearied exertion. Content with their simple means, they evince no
+desire to emulate the habits, or the occupations of the colonists: but,
+on the contrary, seem to regard their toils and customs with a sense of
+pity or contempt. I have, occasionally, seen parties of them looking on,
+when our soldiers have assembled to go through the various evolutions of
+their exercise; and they always regarded them with a quiet indifference;
+or indicated by their features a sort of contemptuous pity, which was
+sometimes expressed by a significant look, that seemed to say, “Ay,
+foolish people! you take vast pains with these things: but we do them
+much better, with infinitely less trouble.”
+
+They are very fond of drinking rum, and eagerly swallow it to
+intoxication. But they observe a kind of method in their drunkenness:
+for when they come down to the towns in bodies of considerable number,
+it is remarked that half the party will freely devote to Bacchus, whilst
+the other half carefully refrain, in order to watch the helpless; and
+these, when restored by sleep, are observed to take _their turn_ of
+watching, and to guard their late protectors through similar visits to
+the deities of turbulence and repose. They have no pleasure in long
+sipping, but swallow large draughts of rum, or drink quickly glassful
+after glassful, till they are unable to move.
+
+The Indians are excessively arbitrary and despotic towards their women.
+Polygamy is practised among them. Each man takes as many wives as he can
+conveniently maintain. They are very jealous, and commonly appoint the
+senior of their wives as a spy or guardian over the conduct of the
+others; but, as a spice of intrigue has found its way even into the wild
+woods, it is said that means have been found to convert the old Duenna
+into the best channel of obtaining an introduction to the junior
+branches of the _harem_.
+
+All the domestic labour is done by the females, and in their
+journeyings, from place to place, the women are made to toil under the
+burden of whatever they may have to transport. Thus, in removing from
+any abode to take up a new home, the different articles of furniture,
+and all the little variety of implements and utensils are placed upon
+the backs of the women, who follow in silent train, bending under a
+heavy load, while their imperious lord marches on before unincumbered.
+
+From the rigid government exercised over them, by the men, the women
+appear to be sombre and reserved. They commonly sit with their backs
+towards strangers, and remain in profound silence when their husbands
+are present. In their absence they show less restraint, and seem
+disposed to cheerfulness and vivacity. Like the men they are very fond
+of rum, and drink bumpers in rapid succession as if it were only water.
+
+I have observed, that notwithstanding the great heat of climate, the
+Indians of this part of South America are not of the same meager
+appearance as the negroes. From their habits of indolence a portion of
+fat is deposited under the skin, which gives them a soft fulness of
+form; but we did not see, among the people of the woods, a single
+instance of the heavy, protruding obesity so common among the luxurious
+sons of civilized society. Figures, it is true, may be found among them
+as lean as hard-toiling slaves; but perhaps no Indian was ever seen
+palpitating under that oppressive protuberance of fat, which the _bons
+vivans_ of Europe, and particularly the beef-eating subjects of England
+so frequently carry before them. This circumstance may tend to show that
+great obesity is only the effect of indolence, or good living, or of
+both acting together; and that by a due observance of exercise and
+abstemiousness it might, in all cases, be prevented.
+
+Let me return with you to our tour, and tell you that M. Fenner very
+kindly met us at Arends in the morning, with a fine mule, and a whole
+troop of slaves and horses to conduct us back to his home at Johanna.
+According to the usual custom, coffee was brought to us at seven
+o’clock, on leaving our hammocks, and without waiting for a more
+substantial breakfast, we went round the plantation, and walked to see
+some Tonquin-bean trees, which were growing upon the estate, then
+mounted our ponies, and put ourselves on the march, attended, part of
+the way by M. Mittelholster, with whom we had been guests for the night.
+
+The party formed a motley group, consisting of Dutch planters, British
+officers, and naked Africans marching across an immense waste surrounded
+with wild woods, under a scorching and vertical sun, with M. Fenner our
+friendly conductor, seated upon a prancing mule, leading the way as
+commander at the head of the squadron. His grotesque appearance would
+have highly diverted you; for, worthy man, he was not barely a Hollander
+on horseback, but a _gros-culottes_ dressed in a white coat and
+broad-brimmed hat, capering upon a slender mule, and in danger of
+falling off at every step: indeed it was evident to the whole corps,
+that if they should venture to move quicker than the Dutch _pas grave_,
+their leader would soon _fall_ in the _rear_: nor had we gone far before
+our fears were realized, and our decanted conductor seated on the
+_parterre_; leaving his sprightly mule to kick her heels in air across
+the wide savanna. Finding that our chief had fallen without being
+wounded, the whole troop was quickly engaged in a chase across the
+plain, to overtake their captain’s charger. At this moment a rapid
+thought winged its way to England, and I wished I could have placed a
+picture before you, representing your friend occupied, amidst a group of
+horse and foot, planters, officers, and slaves—_Englishmen_, _Africans_,
+and _Dutchmen_, scampering over a wild savanna, enclosed by the deep
+forests of _Guiana_, in pursuit of a _South American_ mule. We
+fortunately surrounded the animal before she had made her way into the
+woods, and after a long gallop about the plain, she was brought back
+into the ranks.
+
+It now became a question, who should mount our captain’s steed; for
+Mynheer Fenner, though not hurt, had grown pallid and nervous, and was
+in truth, so bad a horseman, that there was not the least probability of
+his remaining many minutes upon her back, if he should again attempt to
+ride her: and to leave our commander, our guide, and our host behind us,
+to walk to Johanna, could not be endured. In this dilemma it fell to my
+lot to undertake the management of the frisky mule, throughout the
+remainder of the journey. Whether her capering fit was subdued by the
+chase about the savanna, or whether she preferred an English to a Dutch
+rider, it were of no consequence to determine: she carried me pleasantly
+and quietly, and we arrived at Johanna without any further disaster.
+
+On our way we were conducted to an Indian village, built at the edge of
+the savanna, just within the border of the forest. Very few of the
+people were in their dwellings. They were engaged in the chase, in
+search of provisions, or had concealed themselves in the woods, upon
+seeing us approach. In one of the huts we found an old woman wretchedly
+diseased, left quite alone, and lying naked in a hammock. She seemed to
+be only a breathing skeleton: her countenance was deeply _Hippocratic_;
+eruptions and foul ulcers disfigured her body, and rendered her a
+perfect object of horror; she was unable to move—almost to speak, or to
+respire, and exhibited, altogether, a most striking example of human
+misery.
+
+In the neighbourhood of the huts we saw some of the fine reeds growing,
+which are used by the Indians for making their arrows. They appeared to
+have been planted about the village for the convenience of furnishing a
+ready supply.
+
+In our ride through the woods, some large trees were pointed out to us
+as being a species of wild cinnamon. The bark had somewhat the flavour
+of that spice, and on being broken resembled it in odour, but it was
+very rough and coarse.
+
+We reached the Johanna estate three hours before the negroes, who had
+been sent round by way of the river with our boat; their journey by
+water having been above four hours longer than ours by land,
+notwithstanding our delay in the savanna.
+
+Having gone to the extent of our expedition, and it only remaining to us
+to return down the river amidst the same unvaried scenery which we had
+passed, we became anxious to reach New Amsterdam and the fort, with as
+little delay as possible, and, therefore, set off in the afternoon for
+Fort Nassau, intending to hang our hammocks at Mynheer Scholten’s until
+the morrow. But in this, we were disappointed, by the failure of the
+tide; consequently, finding at the dusk of evening, that we were not
+likely to arrive at the old town, we pursued our marooning system, and
+put into the first port we could make. This happened to be at the
+plantation Helvetia, where we were received with great kindness and
+civility by Mynheer Freinde. Coffee was presented on our arrival: soon
+afterwards the supper-board was plentifully spread; and, although
+unexpected intruders, we found excellent accommodations for the night.
+
+We did not enjoy the society of Mynheer Freinde so much as we could have
+wished, in consequence of our limited knowledge of his native language;
+yet, by means of the many good things he gave us, he made himself
+extremely well understood. The estate is large, and is the property of
+Mynheer Freinde jointly with three other gentlemen, one of whom resides
+in London, the two others at Amsterdam.
+
+I might have remarked to you that at the Johanna plantation, we were
+this day indulged with the luxury of having two young negroes, and an
+Indian girl, placed behind us waving lime boughs around our heads, in
+order to keep us cool, and prevent us from being annoyed by insects,
+while we were eating our dinners; and, in addition to this general
+protection, I was farther indebted to the flattering attention of
+Mynheer Fenner, for the distinguished honor of having a separate slave
+stationed at my elbow holding an Indian fan, with express orders to give
+me air, and guard me from the musquitoes.
+
+We left Helvetia with the early tide, in order to breakfast at the old
+town; and accordingly arrived at nine o’clock at Mynheer Scholten’s.
+During breakfast we were visited by the fiscal, who, looking extremely
+abashed, begged us to believe that he felt it incumbent upon him to
+offer multitudes of apologies, for his rude behaviour on the day we had
+dined at his house, adding, that he had been greatly afflicted, from the
+moment he had been told of it; and, in explanation, ascribing all his
+loud noise and political violence to the _levelling_ bumpers which he
+had taken of claret and Madeira. We likewise met, at breakfast, another
+of the oldest inhabitants of the colony, an uncle of Mynheer Scholten,
+whose aged and venerable figure commanded great respect for his person,
+while it impressed a favorable idea of the salubrity of the climate.
+
+After satisfying the calls of appetite, we took a walk into the town,
+and, in the course of our promenade, had an opportunity of procuring a
+very beautiful lion-monkey, from one of the handsomest Indian women we
+had seen, and who, by signs and gestures, gave us to understand, that if
+desired, means might be devised, to make the mistress the companion of
+the little animal, at our quarters at the fort.
+
+Before noon we were again in the boat pursuing our journey down the
+river. Having the current in our favor, we were carried rapidly on, and
+were enabled to make longer tides than when going the opposite way. In
+proceeding up the river, the slaves had found it necessary to avoid the
+centre, and to keep the boat as near as possible to the shore; but in
+returning, they gladly sought the middle of the channel, in order to
+avail themselves of the current. As the evening approached, the return
+of tide overpowered the fresh-water stream, and, by putting a stop to
+our progress, compelled us to seek quarters at an earlier hour than we
+wished. The plantation Daargradt being nearest, we dropped our anchor,
+there, and, without ceremony, took up our abode for the night.
+
+This is one of the colonial estates, and is subject to a question of
+sequestration; it being yet in doubt whether Daargradt, together with
+some other plantations similarly circumstanced, may not be condemned as
+public property, for the benefit of the captors. The estate is
+extensive, and cultivated by a numerous gang of slaves, who are attached
+as stock, and consequently make a part of the property. My mind
+anticipates the idea which suggests itself to you upon this subject; but
+you will not expect that I should offer comments upon the prospect of
+sharing _prize-money_ from such a source.
+
+The usual difficulty respecting language would have occurred to us, from
+the manager not knowing either English or French; but fortunately, a
+gentleman whom I had met at Mynheer Ongre’s, happened to be at
+Daargradt, who, with great kindness, undertook the troublesome task of
+interpreter; and procured for us the best accommodations of the house.
+
+We went early to our hammocks; but passed a sad restless night, owing to
+our being assailed by hosts of musquitoes, whose venomous bitings wholly
+deprived us of sleep.
+
+
+
+
+ LETTER LVIII.
+
+
+ Berbische.
+
+We rose with the sun in order to go round the plantation and the
+negro-yard previous to our departure, and before ten o’clock we took our
+seats in the boat, availing ourselves of the early tide, with the
+intention of hanging our hammocks at Mynheer Roboloski’s in the evening;
+and of proceeding on the morrow to New Amsterdam. M. Roboloski had made
+a visit to the British officers at the fort, and had very pressingly
+invited us to his plantation; which we understood to be situated on the
+opposite bank of the river, between Mynheer Abbensets’ and the town, and
+very conveniently for becoming the last place of rest upon our
+excursion. A little past noon we arrived at Essendam, intending to make
+only an _en passant_ call upon Mynheer Abbensets; who received us with
+all the kindness and cordiality of a friend; nor would he hear of our
+going further, but insisted that we should pass the remainder of the day
+with him; and, the more effectually to reconcile the delay, he assured
+us that the tide would not carry us so far as M. Roboloski’s by night.
+Finding this to be the case, we yielded to his kind solicitations: and
+the more readily from our knowing that the town and the fort were still
+within the morrow’s journey; besides having proved by experience, that
+neither shore of the river could supply us with more desirable quarters.
+Having agreed to pass the night at Essendam, we rested for a short time,
+and then made an excursion across the river to offer thanks to M.
+Schneider, for the information he had given us respecting our journey;
+and to see the sugar-works at Mr. Blair’s estate. As soon as we
+returned, a well-served dinner, with plenty of good wines, was set
+before us: and the generous Abbensets warmly bade us welcome. It is not
+the custom in these colonies, as in England, to consume the whole of the
+afternoon over the bottle. Wine is taken liberally at dinner-time, and
+the party withdraw from the table very soon after. At M. Abbensets’,
+cards were introduced almost as soon as the cloth was removed. When the
+sun was declining we engaged in a pleasant promenade about the
+plantation, and proceeded as far as _Sans Souci_, the adjoining estate,
+to call on Mynheer Abbensets’ nephew.
+
+Soon after we returned from our walk, the supper-board was spread, and
+to crown the evening, some very fine old Hollands, and the social pipe
+were introduced. You will perhaps be surprised to learn, that I was the
+only one who could not enjoy this part of the repast: most of the
+officers have acquired the habit of smoking, and some of them have
+become such adepts in this very dirty and inelegant, however social
+custom, that they can already drink gin, and whiff a pipe or sagar
+almost as well as any Dutchman of the colony! You will probably envy
+them the accomplishment as little as I do! We went to our hammocks very
+soon after supper, hoping, by a long sleep, to relieve the heavy fatigue
+of two disturbed and restless nights; but we were sadly
+disappointed!—the tormenting musquitoes again besieged us, and the third
+night proved no less sleepless than the two preceding. The heat and
+itching from former bitings, the pain of new and acute punctures, and
+the still more wearisome buzzing of the insects, in our ears, combined
+in such utter annoyance, as not only to deprive us of sleep, but of all
+ease and quiet. Even the power of lying still was unattainable. The
+irritation, caused by the pain and excessive itching, rendered us quite
+feverish, and with the weariness and languor arising from want of sleep,
+made us really ill. At length, grown impatient of suffering, and finding
+it impossible to rest in our hammocks, we got up, walked about the room,
+washed with cold water, rubbed ourselves with orange-juice, and with
+limes, then opened the windows, shook our hammocks, beat about the
+apartment with cloths and handkerchiefs, and tried various means of
+driving away the insects, and obtaining relief: but in vain; all our
+efforts failed of success; and we were compelled to drag out a most
+wearisome and comfortless night.
+
+We left our room early in the morning oppressed with feverish feelings,
+and a sense of general stupor. Our eyelids were swoln and heavy; our
+faces inflamed and tumefied, and we were almost blind.
+
+We breakfasted with M. Abbensets, and at nine o’clock embarked for New
+Amsterdam. The negroes took no rest between Essendam and the town. They
+cheerfully pulled the oars for five hours without intermission, in order
+to reach the landing-place before the turn of the tide; all the relief
+they sought, throughout the whole of this time, being that of
+occasionally taking up a handful of water from the river, and pouring it
+upon the oars, to prevent them from becoming hot and dry, and thereby
+blistering their hands. At two o’clock on the 23d of June we finished
+our journey, and were again safely on shore at the government
+landing-place, at New Amsterdam.
+
+You will feel that the excursion was, altogether, one of high interest
+and gratification: but I have proceeded in such minute, and (I fear you
+will say) tedious detail, that very little remains to be offered by way
+of general remark.
+
+The novelty which presented itself to our observation was not more
+striking than the unbounded hospitality, which welcomed us at each place
+of call. Although unexpected intruders, we were every where received
+with a cordial urbanity, which is very inadequately expressed by the
+common term _civility_. It seemed to be the study of all, who should
+most serve, and oblige us. Not satisfied with administering the best
+accommodations of the house, whilst we remained with them, a generous
+regard for our comfort extended their liberality yet further, and they
+either openly, or privately contributed to our convenience, by adding to
+our travelling supply. Porter, wine, and spirits, food and fruit, and
+plantains for the negroes, all found their way into the boat.
+
+Our mode of travelling was in itself highly commodious, and afforded
+many facilities. The party sat together as comfortably as if in a small
+room on shore; we advanced at ease, and were scarcely sensible of any
+motion: by the awning we were protected from the sun; and by means of
+the open windows at the sides, we had always a stream of cool air.
+Enough of space was afforded for provisions, wine, clothes, and all
+other stores of the journey; also convenient stowage for whatever
+specimens we might collect. Together with these accommodations a secure
+harbour was found for the boat at every plantation, and our slaves
+either fed themselves from the provisions of the vessel, or foraged
+among the negroes of the estates; so that we had no care concerning
+either servants or cattle, carriage or roads.
+
+The variety in point of scenery, you will have perceived, was not very
+great, but the inanimate sameness of wood and water was pleasantly
+relieved by the occasional openings of the different plantations. In
+some parts of the river, the water was singularly still and clear, and,
+with its forest borders, exhibited a novelty of peculiar feature. Its
+smooth and lucid surface formed a perfect mirror, so completely
+reflecting every thing around, that it seemed difficult to discover how
+we were supported—by what means suspended, as it were, in the centre of
+space. At the sides of the river no line of termination could be
+distinguished. It was not seen where the water ceased, or where the land
+commenced; but the trees, on each border, being within the edge of the
+water, were so distinctly reflected as to convey the semblance of a
+forest, growing upwards and downwards from the same roots. The boat was
+reflected in a similar manner; as was likewise the unclouded canopy of
+the skies. The watery medium made no impression upon the eye; but the
+open azure expanse was seen the same, whether we looked upwards or
+downwards. We seemed suspended in the centre of a hollow globe, having
+the same concave arch above and below, with an inverted and an upright
+forest on either hand. At one spot we met a huge mass of earth
+resembling a small island, floating down the silent river, with a
+variety of plants and shrubs growing upon it; and from the water being
+invisible, the perfect reflection of this little plantation gave it the
+appearance of a clump of young trees calmly moving in a wide vacuum,
+with each plant growing perpendicularly upward and downward, in precise
+resemblance. If we held out a hand, or an oar over the side of the boat,
+the same was seen below, without discovering the limpid medium between
+them. In short, we seemed only to move, like our globe itself, in
+ethereal space.
+
+The difficulties which many of the gentlemen of the colony had urged, as
+necessarily attendant upon the expedition, proved to be ideal. Until the
+last three nights, scarcely any thing occurred to interrupt the full
+enjoyment of the excursion. Indeed the torment of these nights served
+only as a variety, which placed in a stronger light the many facilities
+we had met with; for, amidst the woods, and at the estates far up the
+river, we had almost wholly escaped the annoyance of insects. Musquitoes
+did not seem to inhabit the depths of the forest. In these parts we had
+also found the air cooler, and the land less heated than where it was
+cleared of wood, and more open.
+
+I must not neglect to inform you of a custom, which we observed to be
+very prevalent, it being an act of politeness quite novel to Europeans.
+As a mark of attention the gentlemen of the different plantations
+usually accompanied us to our sleeping-room, at the time of our going to
+bed, when, on taking their leave for the night, they concluded the
+compliments of the day in the following terms, “S’il y a d’autre chose,
+Messieurs, dont vous avez besoin, il n’en faut que demander au
+garçon—cela n’est pas mon affaire.” This was genuine West Indian
+complaisance; and it offered a lamentable proof of the absence of moral
+principle in a country degraded by the usages of slavery.
+
+ Adieu.
+
+
+ END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
+
+
+ S. Gosnell, Printer, Little Queen Street, London.
+
+-----
+
+Footnote 1:
+
+ Sir J. M‘Namara Hayes.
+
+Footnote 2:
+
+ _The negro term used for_ white.
+
+Footnote 3:
+
+ _Domestics of the kitchen, not slaves of the field._
+
+Footnote 4:
+
+ Wooden tiles.
+
+Footnote 5:
+
+ We have been so accustomed to pay extravagantly for bread, in England,
+ since this period, that the price which then seemed frightfully
+ enormous, might now be deemed moderate.—1806.
+
+Footnote 6:
+
+ The George and Bridget afterwards sunk in the harbour of Cape St.
+ Nicholas Mole; and poor unfortunate Mac—, soon after his arrival at
+ St. Domingo, fell a victim to the yellow fever.
+
+Footnote 7:
+
+ It proved that considerable property was actually condemned and sold;
+ but not the smallest dividend has yet been paid to those entitled to
+ it....
+
+ April 1815.
+
+Footnote 8:
+
+ About 1_s._ 8_d._ Sterling.
+
+Footnote 9:
+
+ Slaves so termed from being promoted to the distinguished office of
+ following their comrades, upon all occasions, with a whip at their
+ backs, as an English carter attends his horses.
+
+Footnote 10:
+
+ A large species of wasp.
+
+Footnote 11:
+
+ Upon this occasion one of the officers was carried out of the wood by
+ a faithful slave, who, afterwards, refused to accept his freedom as a
+ reward; and only begged to have a silver medal to wear on days of
+ festival.
+
+Footnote 12:
+
+ Upon this coast the forest is termed the _Bush_.
+
+Footnote 13:
+
+ The rain-water which lodges in the low parts of the forest.
+
+------------------------------------------------------------------------
+
+
+
+
+ TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES
+
+
+ ● Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained.
+ ● Used numbers for footnotes, placing them all at the end of the last
+ chapter.
+ ● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_.
+ ● Enclosed blackletter font in =equals=.
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77322 ***
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