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diff --git a/76810-h/76810-h.htm b/76810-h/76810-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..dc4e78b --- /dev/null +++ b/76810-h/76810-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,18016 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html> +<html lang="en"> +<head> + <meta charset="UTF-8"> + <title> + A Sailor’s Life Under Four Sovereigns, vol III | Project Gutenberg + </title> + <link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover"> + <style> + body { margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: serif; } + h1,h2,h3 { text-align: center; clear: both; } + h2.nobreak { page-break-before: avoid; } + p { text-align: justify; text-indent: 1.5em; margin: 0; } + p.no-indent { text-indent: 0; } + p.half-title { text-indent: 0; font-size: 120%; text-align: center; + word-spacing: .5em; letter-spacing: .1em; margin: 8em 0; } + + div.new-page, div.chapter { page-break-before: always; } + + .hang { margin-left: 1.5em; text-indent: -1.5em; } + + .chap-title { font-weight: bold; font-size: 120%; text-indent: 0; + margin: 1em 0 1.5em 0; text-align: center; 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} + .signature { margin-top: 0; } + + hr { width: 33%; margin: 2em 33.5%; clear: both; } + hr.chap { width: 65%; margin: 4em 17.5% } + hr.tb { margin: 1em 33.5%; } + @media print { hr.chap {display: none; visibility: hidden;} } + + table { margin: 1em auto; border-collapse: collapse; } + table td, table th { vertical-align: top; padding: .25em; } + table.toc { width: 70%; } + table.toc td.tdc { font-size: 120%; padding-top: 1em; } + table.toc td.tdl { width: 80%; } + table.toc td.index { padding-top: 1.5em; } + .tdl { text-align: left; } + .tdr { text-align: right; } + .tdc { text-align: center; } + table.illustrations { max-width: 100%; } + table.illustrations td { font-size: 80%; } + + + .blockquot { margin: 1em 3em 1em 3em; } + + .pagenum { position: absolute; left: 92%; font-size: 75%; + text-align: right; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; + font-variant: normal; text-indent: 0; } + + .sidenote { width: 7.5em; padding: 0 .5em 0 .5em; margin: .1em 0 0 1em; + float: right; clear: right; font-size: 80%; color: black; + background: #eeeeee; border: 1px dashed; text-indent: 0; + text-align: right; } + + /* Images */ + img { height: auto; max-width: 100%; } + img.v100 { width: 100%; max-width: 30em; } + img.v50 { width: 100%; max-width: 15em; } + img.h100 { width: 100%; max-width: 48em; } + + .figcenter { margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em; text-align: center; + page-break-inside: avoid; max-width: 100%; clear: both; } + .figleft { float: left; clear: left; margin: 1em 1em 1em 0; + padding: 0; text-align: center; page-break-inside: avoid; + max-width: 50%; } + + figcaption { font-weight: bold; font-size: 85%; font-style: italic; } + figcaption .ships, figcaption cite { font-style: normal; } + figure p { font-size: 85%; margin: 0 0 .5em 50%; + text-indent: 0; text-align: center; font-style: italic; } + + /* Footnotes */ + .footnotes { border: 1px dashed; padding-bottom: 1em; } + .footnote { margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em; } + .footnote .label { position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right; } + .fnanchor { vertical-align: super; font-size: .8em; text-decoration: none; } + + /* Transcriber's notes */ + .transnote { background-color: #E6E6FA; color: black; font-size: 80%; + padding: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 5em; font-family: sans-serif, serif; } + + /* ebookmaker */ + .x-ebookmaker body { margin-left: 0; margin-right: 0; } + .x-ebookmaker .pagenum { display: none; } + .x-ebookmaker .figleft { float: left; } + + ul.index { list-style-type: none; } + li.ifrst { + margin-top: 1em; + text-indent: -2em; + padding-left: 1em; + } + li.indx { + margin-top: .5em; + text-indent: -2em; + padding-left: 1em; + } + li.isub1 { + text-indent: -2em; + padding-left: 2em; + } + li.isub2 { + text-indent: -2em; + padding-left: 3em; + } + </style> +</head> +<body> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76810 ***</div> +<div class='x-ebookmaker-drop'> +<figure class='figcenter' id='front-cover'> +<a href='images/cover.jpg'><img class='v100' src='images/cover-t.jpg' alt=''></a> +</figure> +</div><hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="new-page"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_i">[i]</span></p> +<p class='half-title'>A SAILOR’S LIFE</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="new-page"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_ii">[ii]</span></p> +</div> + +<div class='mt8 mb8'> +<figure class="figcenter" id='i_colophon'> + <img class="v100" src="images/i_colophon.png" alt="Colophon"> +</figure> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class='new-page'> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_iii"></a><a id="Page_iv"></a>[iv]</span></p> +</div> + +<figure class='figcenter' id='i_frontis'> + <img class='v100' src='images/i_frontis.jpg' alt=''> + <figcaption>“Sibuko had had his Quietus.”</figcaption> +</figure> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="new-page"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_v">[v]</span></p> +</div> + +<h1> +<span class='db'>A SAILOR’S LIFE</span> +<span class='db fs80 mth'>UNDER</span> +<span class='db mth'>FOUR SOVEREIGNS</span> +</h1> + +<p class="center fs80 mt2">BY</p> + +<p class="center mth">ADMIRAL OF THE FLEET</p> + +<p class="center fs120 mth">THE HON. SIR HENRY KEPPEL</p> + +<p class="center fs80 mth">G.C.B., D.C.L.</p> + + +<p class="center mt2">VOL. III.</p> + + +<p class="center mt2 fs120 blackletter">London</p> +<p class="center fs120">MACMILLAN AND CO., <span class="smcap">Limited</span></p> +<p class="center fs80 mtq">NEW YORK: THE MACMILLAN COMPANY</p> +<p class="center mtq">1899</p> + +<p class="center fs80 mt1"><em>All rights reserved</em></p> + + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_vi"></a><a id="Page_vii"></a>[vii]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS</h2> +</div> + +<table class="toc"> +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXVI'>CHAPTER LXVI</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr fs50" colspan='2' style='margin-top: -1em;'>PAGE</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Fatshan Creek</td> +<td class="tdr">1</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXVII'>CHAPTER LXVII</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Visit Sarawak</td> +<td class="tdr">8</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXVIII'>CHAPTER LXVIII</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Sarawak—India—England</td> +<td class="tdr">11</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXIX'>CHAPTER LXIX</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">England</td> +<td class="tdr">19</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXX'>CHAPTER LXX</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">England—Groom-in-Waiting</td> +<td class="tdr">32</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXI'>CHAPTER LXXI</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">In Waiting</td> +<td class="tdr">36</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXII'>CHAPTER LXXII</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_viii">[viii]</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">The Cape Command</td> +<td class="tdr">39</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXIII'>CHAPTER LXXIII</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">The Cape Command—Flag in <span class='ships'>Brisk</span></td> +<td class="tdr">45</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXIV'>CHAPTER LXXIV</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">East Coast Sport</td> +<td class="tdr">50</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXV'>CHAPTER LXXV</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Zanzibar—Shooting Hippopotami</td> +<td class="tdr">57</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXVI'>CHAPTER LXXVI</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Zanzibar</td> +<td class="tdr">62</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXVII'>CHAPTER LXXVII</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"><span class='ships'>Forte</span>—Flag Re-hoisted</td> +<td class="tdr">65</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXVIII'>CHAPTER LXXVIII</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">The Cape Command</td> +<td class="tdr">68</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXIX'>CHAPTER LXXIX</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Return to England</td> +<td class="tdr">75</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXX'>CHAPTER LXXX</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Shore Time</td> +<td class="tdr">80</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXXI'>CHAPTER LXXXI</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_ix">[ix]</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Country House Visits</td> +<td class="tdr">92</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXXII'>CHAPTER LXXXII</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">A Shore Journal</td> +<td class="tdr">104</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXXIII'>CHAPTER LXXXIII</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Home Life</td> +<td class="tdr">109</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXXIV'>CHAPTER LXXXIV</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">The Command in China</td> +<td class="tdr">113</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXXV'>CHAPTER LXXXV</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Bound for China</td> +<td class="tdr">117</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXXVI'>CHAPTER LXXXVI</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">The China Command</td> +<td class="tdr">129</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXXVII'>CHAPTER LXXXVII</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">North China Ports</td> +<td class="tdr">139</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXXVIII'>CHAPTER LXXXVIII</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Daibootz</td> +<td class="tdr">153</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXXIX'>CHAPTER LXXXIX</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">The China Command</td> +<td class="tdr">164</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_XC'>CHAPTER XC</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_x">[x]</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">The Outlook for the New Year</td> +<td class="tdr">173</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_XCI'>CHAPTER XCI</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Hari-Kari</td> +<td class="tdr">183</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_XCII'>CHAPTER XCII</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">The China Command</td> +<td class="tdr">190</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_XCIII'>CHAPTER XCIII</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Flag in <span class='ships'>Salamis</span></td> +<td class="tdr">206</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_XCIV'>CHAPTER XCIV</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">The China Command</td> +<td class="tdr">218</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_XCV'>CHAPTER XCV</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">The Command in China</td> +<td class="tdr">227</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_XCVI'>CHAPTER XCVI</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">The Northern Ports</td> +<td class="tdr">237</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_XCVII'>CHAPTER XCVII</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Memories of Gordon</td> +<td class="tdr">245</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_XCVIII'>CHAPTER XCVIII</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Yang-tse-kiang Trip</td> +<td class="tdr">256</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_XCIX'>CHAPTER XCIX</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xi">[xi]</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Chefoo to Japan</td> +<td class="tdr">263</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_C'>CHAPTER C</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">The China Command</td> +<td class="tdr">272</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_CI'>CHAPTER CI</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">The China Command</td> +<td class="tdr">278</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_CII'>CHAPTER CII</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Close of China Command</td> +<td class="tdr">285</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_CIII'>CHAPTER CIII</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Peking</td> +<td class="tdr">298</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_CIV'>CHAPTER CIV</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Homeward Bound</td> +<td class="tdr">311</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_CV'>CHAPTER CV</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Last Visit to the Straits</td> +<td class="tdr">316</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_CVI'>CHAPTER CVI</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Some Farewell Notes</td> +<td class="tdr">321</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#INDEX'>INDEX</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xii"></a><a id="Page_xiii"></a>[xiii]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="ILLUSTRATIONS">ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> +</div> + +<table class='illustrations'> +<tr> +<th class="tdc fs80" style='width: 25em;'>SUBJECT</th> +<th class="tdc fs80" style='width: 10em;'>ARTIST</th> +<th class="tdc fs80" style='width: 5em;'>PAGE</th> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">“Sibuko had had his Quietus”</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>E. Caldwell</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_frontis'>Frontispiece</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Part of my Galley’s Crew</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>Nina Daly</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_003'>3</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Map—Northern China, with Coast of Siberia</td> +<td class='tdl'></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_005'>5</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">A Malay Kampong</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>Photo by Dr. Johnstone</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_011'>11</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">In Bornean Jungle</td> +<td class="tdc">” ”</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_012'>12</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Whampoa</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>Photograph</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_013'>13</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Suspicious Junks</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>Sir Oswald Brierly</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_021'>21</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"><i>Forte</i> at Rio</td> +<td class="tdc">” ”</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_043'>43</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">My Middle Watch</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>J. W. Houghton</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_053'>53</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">A Right and Left Shot</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>E. Caldwell</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_059'>59</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Commodore Oliver Jones</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>Nina Daly</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_129'>129</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Map—Eastern Archipelago</td> +<td class="tdl"></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_142'>142</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Sir Rutherford Alcock</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>Photograph</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_143'>143</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Sir Harry Parkes</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_148'>148</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Crossing a River in Japan</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>Commodore Oliver Jones</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_161'>161</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Lord Charles Scott</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>Nina Daly</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_170'>170</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Map—Northern China, with Coast of Siberia</td> +<td class="tdl"></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_193'>193</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">May and Webb</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>Photograph</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_248'>248</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Mrs. Alt</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_274'>274</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">The Prince who made the Omelette</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_305'>305</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">“The Little Admiral”</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>Hong Kong</i> “Punch”</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_314'>314</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Jack Rodyk</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>Photograph</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_319'>319</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Last of the <i>Rodney</i>, 1884</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_323'>323</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Duke of Buccleuch</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_327'>327</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">Admiral of the Fleet, The Hon. Sir +Henry Keppel, G.C.B., D.C.L.</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>Sketched at The Albany</i> +<i>by Nina Daly</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_335'>335</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xiv"></a><a id="Page_1"></a>[1]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXVI"> + CHAPTER LXVI + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Fatshan Creek</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1857. +May 30.</div> + +<p>The time had arrived that the Admiral had arranged +for the destruction of the Chinese Fleet. Prince +Victor of Hohenlohe, my late aide-de-camp when I +had the Naval Brigade in Crimea, was now with me +as Commodore’s Flag Lieutenant. My gig only +held one sitter besides self. Among my other boys +I had on board the <span class='ships'>Hong-Kong</span> with Goodenough +were Lord Charles Scott, Victor Montagu, and Harry +Stephenson. I left Commander Turnour in the +<span class='ships'>Bittern</span> to arrange my other boys. He had with +him Lieutenant Stanley Graham, Dupuis, Foster, +Pilkington, and A. V. Paget. In the <i>Sir Charles +Forbes</i> were Lieutenant Lord Gilford and Hardy +M‘Hardy. In the Macao Fort were Lieutenant +W. F. Johnson and Captain Magin, Lieutenant +Owen, Royal Marines, Hon. F. G. Crofton, and +H. B. Russell, Master’s Assistant. My late youngster, +“Jacko Hall,” in <span class='ships'>Childers</span> brig was now Flag Captain: +a strictly religious man.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 1.</div> + +<p>Though everything was ready he had sufficient +influence with our good chief not to desecrate the +Sabbath, and so deferred the attack until Monday, +the 1st of June, on which day I had the honour of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[2]</span> +leading the boats of the Fleet in an attack on a strong +force of the Imperialist junks posted in two divisions +in well-selected positions in the Fatshan Creek. The +following account is taken from a letter to my sister +Mary:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<div class='address'> +<p class='center'><span class='ships'>Alligator</span>, <span class="smcap">Canton River</span>,</p> +<p class='center'><i>June 20, 1857</i>.</p> +</div> + +<p class='cb'>The three weeks of this month have been full of excitement. +We commenced on the first with as pretty a boat +action as can be imagined, though it may not be appreciated +because it occurred in distant China. From the heights the +Fatshan Creek affair must have been a beautiful sight. My +broad pennant was hoisted on board the <span class='ships'>Hong-Kong</span>. The +shallow water caused her to ground; she would otherwise +have been in front. Took with me Prince Victor of +Hohenlohe, having previously been commanded by Her +Majesty, through Sir Charles Phipps, to take every care of +him, and left Victor Montagu, my proper gig’s mid, on +board; but the lifting tide soon put him in the midst. We +took the lead. The first division of the Chinese were +attacked simultaneously by about 1900 men. I had not +more than a quarter of that number to attack the second +division, which was three miles higher up the river in a +well-selected place, evidently the <i lang='fr'>élite</i> of their Fleet. The +junks numbered twenty in one compact row, mounting +about fourteen guns each, removed to the side next us, +those in the stern and bow being heavy 32-pounders. +Boarding nets were dropped on our boats, but not until our +men were alongside, as it enabled them all the quicker to +sever the cables connecting the junks. <span class='ships'>Raleigh’s</span> boats well +up, and did not require cheering on. The Chinese fired +occasional shots to ascertain exact distance, but did not open +their heaviest fire till we were within 600 yards. Nearly +the first poor fellow cut in two by a round shot was an +amateur, Major Kearney, whom I had known many years. +We cheered, and were trying to get to the front when a shot +struck our boat, killing the bowman. Another was cut in +two. A third shot took another’s arm off. Prince Victor +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[3]</span> +leaned forward to bind up the man’s arm with his neck-cloth. +While he was so doing, a shot passed through both sides of +the boat, wounding two more of the crew; in short, the +boat was sunk under us.</p> + +<figure class='figcenter' id='i_003'> + <img class='v100' src='images/i_003.jpg' alt=''> + <figcaption>Part of my Galley’s Crew.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Our man-of-war boats do not carry iron ballast, but are +steadied by “breakers” made to fit neatly under each thwart +and filled with fresh water. The tide rising, boats disabled, +oars shot away, it was necessary to re-form. I was collared +and drawn from the water by young Michael Seymour, a +mate of his uncle’s flagship, the <span class='ships'>Calcutta</span>. We were all +picked up except the dead bowman, whom the faithful dog +“Mike” would not leave. As we retired I shook my fist +at the junks, promising I would pay them off. We went to +the <span class='ships'>Hong-Kong</span> and re-formed. I hailed Lieutenant Graham +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[4]</span> +to get his boat ready, as I would hoist the broad pennant for +next attack in his boat. I had no sooner spoken when he +was down, the same shot killing and wounding four others. +Graham was one mass of blood, but it was from a marine +who stood next to him, part of whose skull was forced three +inches into another man’s shoulder. When we reached the +<span class='ships'>Hong-Kong</span> the whole of the Chinese fire appeared to be +centred on her. She was hulled twelve times in a few +minutes. Her deck was covered with the wounded, who +had been brought on board from different boats. From the +paddle-box we saw that the noise of guns was bringing up +strong reinforcements. The account of our having been +obliged to retire had reached them. They were pulling up +like mad. The <span class='ships'>Hong-Kong</span> had floated, but grounded again. +A bit of blue bunting was prepared to represent a broad +pennant, and I called out, “Let’s try the row boats once +more, boys,” and went over the side into our cutter +(<span class='ships'>Raleigh’s</span>), in which was Turnour and the faithful coxswain, +Spurrier. At this moment there arose from the +boats, as if every man took it up at the same instant, one of +those British cheers, so full of meaning, that I knew at once +it was all up with John Chinaman. They might sink +twenty boats, but there were thirty others who would go +ahead all the faster. It was indeed an exciting sight. +A move among the junks! They were breaking ground +and moving off, the outermost first! This the Chinese +performed in good order, without slacking fire. Then +commenced an exciting chase for seven miles. As our shot +told they ran mostly on to the mud banks, and their crews +forsook them. Young Cochrane in his light gig got the +start of me, but, having boarded a war junk, John Chinaman +did not wait to receive him properly, but preferred mud on +the other side. Seventeen junks were overtaken and captured. +Three only escaped. Before this last chase my poor Spurrier +was shot down. I saw his bowels protruding, with my +binoculars in the middle, as he lay in the bottom of the +boat, holding my hand. He asked if there was any hope. +I could only say, “Where there is life there is hope,” but I +had none! He was removed into another boat, and sent to +the hospital ship. Strange to say, the good Crawford served +him up, and the Admiral’s last letter from Hong-Kong +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_5"></a><a id="Page_6"></a>[6]</span> +states that Spurrier hoped to return to his duty in a few +days.</p> +</div> + +<figure class='figcenter' id='i_005'> + <a href='images/i_005.jpg'><img class='v100' src='images/i_005-t.jpg' alt=''></a> + <figcaption>Map—Northern China, with Coast of Siberia</figcaption> +</figure> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>Words fail me, on looking back to this stirring +day, to express my gratitude that I was allowed to +take part in this action. When my ship was lost, I +felt as if my day was done. But fate was kind, and +Fatshan Creek gave me another chance in the service +I ardently loved.</p> + +<p>The following proclamation, by the Chinese +Admiral Yeh, was found in one of the captured +junks after Fatshan:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Liang, subaltern in charge of the Tan chau⁠<a id="FNanchor_1_1" href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> Station of +the Kwang Tung Province, whose name is noted for the +rank of captain, with authority meanwhile to wear the +button of that rank, makes a communication.</p> + +<p>“I am in receipt of a despatch from the Governor +General Yeh, to the following effect:—</p> + +<p>“‘Whereas the barbarian outlaws⁠<a id="FNanchor_2_2" href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> have not as yet +submitted, and the nature of these rebels is not to be +fathomed, the officers and men of the different vessels +stationed at P’ing-chau⁠<a id="FNanchor_3_3" href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> must stand well and strictly on +their guard, so as to be ready at all points, and prevent any +mishap. It is my duty, therefore, to send orders at once +to you, on receipt of which you will, in obedience thereto, +immediately confer with the other officers associated with +you on this service, and with them set an example in concerting +proper measures of control and precaution on board +your respective vessels. You will continue without distinction +of day or night to patrol constantly, as a shuttle +moves in the loom, and to make observation assiduously +and with secrecy. The soldiers and braves under your +command must on no account land, or leave their vessels; +and if there be the slightest movement on the part of the +barbarians, you must make for Sam-shan and open fire upon +them, cutting off and slaying ruthlessly. If any one ruin +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[7]</span>the undertaking by venturing, be it ever so little, to be +slack or indifferent, the officer commanding shall be held +responsible; no mercy shall be shown him. Courage in +the engagement shall be liberally rewarded. Haste in +fear! Haste in earnest!’</p> + +<p>“In obedience to the above I write to every other of the +officers in charge of vessels. In addition to this it is my +duty to write also to you; I accordingly write and request +that you will in no particular depart from the instructions +of His Excellency.</p> + +<p>“A necessary communication addressed to the officer in +charge of the Shun-on Li junk.</p> + +<p>“Hien Fung, 7th year, 5th moon, 8th day (29th +May, 1857).”</p> +</div> + +<div class='footnotes'> +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_1_1" href="#FNanchor_1_1" class="label">[1]</a> In Hai-nan.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_2_2" href="#FNanchor_2_2" class="label">[2]</a> <i lang='zh'>Fi</i>, vagabonds, rebels, or any lawless persons.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_3_3" href="#FNanchor_3_3" class="label">[3]</a> Between Sam-shan and Fat-shan.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[8]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXVII"> + CHAPTER LXVII + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Visit Sarawak</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1857. +June 5.</div> + +<p>Master and self tried by court-martial on board +the <span class='ships'>Sybille</span> for the loss of the <span class='ships'>Raleigh</span>.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 12.</div> + +<p>The hull of my poor <span class='ships'>Raleigh</span> advertised for sale, +to take place on Monday 29th. Who would have +believed it! Commander-in-Chief appointing us by +commission, dated yesterday, to the <span class='ships'>Alligator</span>.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Canton +River, +June 14.</div> + +<p><em>Sunday.</em>—My birthday. Enter my forty-ninth +year—a day on which one no longer cares to be +congratulated. Went up in <span class='ships'>Hong-Kong</span> as far as +Second Bar, where <span class='ships'>Tribune</span> and <span class='ships'>Highflyer</span> are.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 15.</div> + +<p>Proceeded to Macao Fort; found they had made +a prize of a mandarin junk laden with tea.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 16.</div> + +<p>Returned as far as Second Bar and met Sampson. +No permission from Chief to ascend Anninghoy Creek.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 18.</div> + +<p>Made preparations for capture of the Chucupee +Fort. The Celestials, however, mizzled on our +approach. Took possession and left Edgell with +<span class='ships'>Tribune</span> in charge.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 20.</div> + +<p>Anniversary of Her Majesty’s Accession. Dressed +ships. At noon fired Royal salutes the whole length +of the Canton River.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 30.</div> + +<p>Shifted berth to below Second Bar, taking old +<span class='ships'>Alligator</span> up. Dined with Sir Robert M‘Clure of +North-West Passage celebrity in <span class='ships'>Esk</span>.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[9]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 20.</div> + +<p>Friend “Thomas,” Prince Victor, and self took +departure for Dent’s comfortable quarters at Macao, +on board the <span class='ships'>Firmee</span>. Found poor Cleverly still +confined to bed. Met a clerk of Dent’s House, +who wears a moustache, and looks a muff.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 21.</div> + +<p>Macao better climate than Hong-Kong. Thomas, +Prince Victor, and I dined at Endicott’s.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 26.</div> + +<p>Heard of the untimely death of poor young +Foster, which took place on board the <span class='ships'>Fury</span> off +Macao Fort. By <span class='ships'>Firmee</span> to Hong-Kong and Dent’s +bungalow. Visit from St. George Foley.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 30.</div> + +<p>Returned by <span class='ships'>Firmee</span> to Macao, meeting Admiral +there in <span class='ships'>Coromandel</span>, who informed me of the little +chance I had of becoming second in command, as far +as Sir Charles Wood was concerned.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 20.</div> + +<p>Mail in from England. Ascertained from Commander-in-Chief +that Sir Charles Wood at Admiralty +disapproved of my broad pennant being hoisted after +loss of <span class='ships'>Raleigh</span>. Decided on going home.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 23.</div> + +<p>The worthy Judge Hulme gave me a farewell +dinner. Parting dinner at Dent’s. William Dent +over from Macao.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Hong-kong, +Aug. 25.</div> + +<p>Took leave of my good friends the Dents. Also +the kind Admiral. Embarked on board <span class='ships'>Formosa</span>, +P. and O. steamer, for passage to England, with +option of landing and coming on when and how I +like. Flagship manning rigging and cheering on +passing. My <span class='ships'>Raleigh’s</span> officers on board, with others, +to wish me good-bye!!!</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<div class="sidenote">P. and O. +<span class='ships'>Formosa</span>, +Aug. 26.</div> + +<p>Once more on the wide and open sea, but in the +novel position of passenger. Dr. and Mrs. Parker +and my worthy friend and old shipmate Crawford of +the party.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 4.</div> + +<p>10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Arrived in New Harbour, Singapore. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[10]</span>Kindly taken in by Blundell at Government House. +Read Clarence Paget’s friendly explanation of my +recall in the House of Commons.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Singapore, +Sept. 5.</div> + +<p>Found Charlie Grant, wife and child, going to +Sarawak.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 6.</div> + +<p>Dined with the Blundells—their daughters, Jane +and Anne, particularly nice girls.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 7.</div> + +<p><span class='ships'>Emperor</span> steam yacht in the Roads requiring a +foremast—time for her to take me to Sarawak and +return while mast getting ready. Pleasant and convenient +arrangement. News from India; slight improvement, +but Delhi still untaken.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 8.</div> + +<p>Captain Sidney Grenfell, senior officer in Malacca +Straits, cancelled the orders already given. The +Emperor of Japan’s yacht is not to go with me to +Borneo! There is a difference between being <em>in</em> and +<em>out</em> of office.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 9.</div> + +<p>Dined with Colonel Liardet at the mess of +21st N.I.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 10.</div> + +<p>Lord Elgin arrived from Calcutta in <span class='ships'>Ava</span>, P. and +O. Co’s steamer. Breakfasted with Harvey, meeting +Greenshields and Paterson, with their wives.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 11.</div> + +<p>Many good fellows in Lord Elgin’s staff, George +Fitzroy one of them. Dined at home (Government +House) to meet Lord Elgin.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 12.</div> + +<p>Mail in from England. Turnour and Prince +Victor promoted. I senior captain on the list. +Many letters of congratulation on Fatshan Creek. +Met Lord Elgin and party at dinner.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 13.</div> + +<p>Embarked on board Emperor of Japan’s yacht.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 15.</div> + +<p>Rounded Taujong Datu. In evening anchored +off Taujong Poe.</p> + + + + + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[11]</span></p> + +<figure class='figcenter' id='i_011'> + <img class='h100' src='images/i_011.jpg' alt=''> + <figcaption>A Malay Kampong.</figcaption> +</figure> + + <h2 class="nobreak mt2" id="CHAPTER_LXVIII"> + CHAPTER LXVIII + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Sarawak—India—England</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1857. +Sarawak, +Sept. 16.</div> + +<p>Piloted the yacht as far as the Quop. Up in the +gig to Sarawak. How altered! Extended but not +improved in appearance. Miss the attap roofs; tiles +look heavy. Miss the jungle, and, most of all, the +Rajah, who is at Brunei.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 17.</div> + +<p>Brooke Brooke and Charlie Grant are here with +their wives, and each owns a child. How many happy +associations of bygone days. Must wait Rajah’s +return. Dine with the Bishop. Took a stroll in +the jungle with Alderson’s rifle. Jungle too +magnificent. Found the walking bad, and the gun +heavy, to say nothing of the wood-leeches that adhered +to and feasted off my legs, in spite of my trousers +being tied like bloomers round the ankles.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 19.</div> + +<p>Took an early walk over two miles of the road +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[12]</span>cut through the jungle. Somewhat checked by Chinese +outbreak. Plenty of wild pig about, but difficult to +get at.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 20.</div> + +<p>Went to church. Service performed by Bishop, +with three assistants. Singing by native Christianized +children wonderfully good. Young Brooke and I +dining with the Bishop—a good fellow, without guile +or humbug.</p> + +<figure class='figcenter' id='i_012'> + <img class='h100' src='images/i_012.jpg' alt=''> + <figcaption>In Bornean Jungle.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 21.</div> + +<p>Crossed the river to see a man-eating alligator +just caught, length 12 ft. 6 in. Astonishing the +ease with which the Malay kris cuts through the +thick skin between the joints along the neck and tail +of the brute. Started with Charlie Grant, Alderson, +and Watson in an excursion up the river by <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> +tide.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 22.</div> + +<p>Grant having put us up in his bungalow, where he +is about to build a fort and assume the command of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[13]</span>that district, we started in afternoon on our deer-shooting +excursion, getting as far as the Singy Hill +Dyaks, where we slept in their “scullery.” Unclean +animals these Dyaks.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 23.</div> + +<p>A forenoon walk took us some four or five miles +to a hut near the +deer ground. In +afternoon, before +sunset, we went out +in two parties. Saw +some large red deer; +stalked near and +shot a doe.</p> + +<figure class='figleft' id='i_013'> + <img class='v50' src='images/i_013.jpg' alt=''> + <figcaption>Whampoa.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 24.</div> + +<p>Long walk of +ten miles in the +hottest sun, and +roughest ground. +Back to boat. On +arrival at bungalow, +heard of +Rajah’s return to +his capital. Started +alone after dinner +for Sarawak to join +him. Found Brooke +in great force; +nearly five years +since we met; he +altered, but not so +much as I expected, considering smallpox and what +else he has gone through.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 29.</div> + +<p>Embarked on board the <span class='ships'>Sir James Brooke</span> on +return to Singapore. Farewell, Sarawak. May you +prosper as you so well deserve!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 1.</div> + +<p>Arrived in Singapore. Governor being absent at +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[14]</span>Penang, put up at Whampoa’s, and how comfortable +the good fellow made me!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 2.</div> + +<p>Waited on by a deputation of the merchants to +invite me to an entertainment. Grand dinner given +by the residents at the London Hotel. Their kindness +preventing my responding as I wished.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 4.</div> + +<p>Afternoon agreeably passed at Angus’s small +bungalow, where Whampoa, “Thomas,” Briggs, and +Harrison dined.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 5.</div> + +<p>Dined with Napier. Anniversary of his wedding, +at which I was present thirteen years ago.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 6.</div> + +<p>Mail steamer coming in, decided on going on. +Find myself on flag list, also recommended for the +K.C.B. 4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, embarked on board <span class='ships'>Cadiz</span>, mail +steamer.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Penang, +Oct. 8.</div> + +<p>1.40 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, arrived at Penang. Dined with old +friend Lewis, having called on Blundell and the +recorder, Sir Benson Maxwell. On board at 6; +<span class='ships'>Cadiz</span> under weigh.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Galle, +Oct. 15.</div> + +<p>Arrived at Galle before 8 o’clock. Took rooms +on shore, but as the P. and O. agent was not inclined +to let us proceed by way of Bombay without extra +payment, accepted an offer to go to Bombay in <span class='ships'>Madras</span> +hired transport. Packed up and off again by sunset.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 16.</div> + +<p>Every attention paid to our comfort on board +<span class='ships'>Madras</span>. Captain Jenkins of the Indian Navy most +kind.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 19.</div> + +<p>10 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, came to in Bombay Harbour.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">India, +Oct. 20.</div> + +<p>Landed after breakfast, having received an invitation +to take up my abode with Captain and Mrs. +George Wellesley, he in charge of the Bombay +Marine. They had a sweet little girl I called the +“Râni.” Sir Hugh Rose was here on his way to +the Mutiny, having already been home since the +Crimea. He was staying with the Governor, Lord +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[15]</span>Elphinstone, on the hills at Matheran, where I joined +them later. Came up, too, with our invalided Doctor +Crawford, who found his brother here, a magistrate, +with whom I had a good dinner. We went by train +to see the wonderful elephant caves with fittings that +date two thousand years before the birth of our +Saviour.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 30.</div> + +<p>Kindly welcomed by Lord Elphinstone. So glad +to have a few days with Hugh Rose. Pleasant +party, consisting of Captain Colborn and staff. +Climate delightful. Blankets pleasant. No mosquitoes.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 31.</div> + +<p>At breakfast appeared remainder of staff, Doctor +Peel and Colonel Bate. Rode with Governor in cool +of evening. Such varied and magnificent scenery! +Rode some eight miles without a hill!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 1.</div> + +<p>Early ride in other direction with Colonel Russell. +Matheran such a nice place. Found Harry Parker +located on the hill with wife and two children; he +came to ride and dine.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Bombay, +Nov. 2.</div> + +<p>Returned by 8.30 train to Bombay. Wellesley +and I to dine with Commander Jenkins and officers +of Indian Marine.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 3.</div> + +<p>Wellesley and I to call on Governor. Among +letters by the mail, received the following from my +brother-in-law Stephenson.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<div class='address'> +<p class='center'><span class="smcap">Rooksbury, Fareham, Hants</span>,</p> +<p class='center'><i>September 20, 1857</i>.</p> +</div> + +<p class='cb'><span class="smcap">My dear Harry</span>—You are an Admiral and a K.C.B.; +that rejoices my heart.</p> + +<p>I transcribe for your information what has occurred in +this matter, as it will please you, in some points.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Copy of +Letter to +Lord +Panmure.</div> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<div class='address'> +<p class='center'><i>August 29, 1857.</i></p> +</div> + +<p class='cb'>It is with very great reluctance and some pain that I +request your careful attention to this statement, and that +you will favour me with an interview.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[16]</span></p> + +<p>The matter of painful grievance is this—</p> + +<p>A public, professional, and personal disparagement, I +may say <em>dishonour</em>, has been inflicted upon Captain Keppel, +R.N., in withholding from him the K.C.B. of the Baltic.</p> + +<p>There exists at the Admiralty a minute of more than +twelve years standing, “that he was entitled to the C.B. for +services performed in the China Seas under Admiral Parker +and Sir Hugh Gough, G.C.B.”</p> + +<p>Keppel gave up the command of the finest ship in the +navy, <span class='ships'>St. Jean d’Acre</span>, to serve in the trenches. His predecessor, +Lushington, in the command of the Naval Brigade +before Sebastapol, upon giving up his command was gazetted +on the 10th July 1855. “Captain Stephen Lushington, R.N. +to the K.C.B.”</p> + +<p>He was not previously a C.B.</p> + +<p>Keppel from that time to the fall of Sebastapol commanded +that Brigade. The General and the Admiral Commanding-in-Chief +in their despatches eulogised the services +of Keppel in the highest terms of praise.</p> + +<p>He commanded at the fall of Sebastapol, which was the +crowning victory of the campaign.</p> + +<p>Lord Lyons <em>told me</em> that the French could not have taken +Sebastapol but for Keppel’s well-directed fire.</p> + +<p>His rank of captain is not sufficient excuse. Lushington +was gazetted as captain, and when the distribution of the +honours were gazetted there was one captain his senior and +one his junior K.C.B. (I have had a correspondence with +Panmure and Sir Charles Wood upon this subject.)</p> + +<p>I regret, and it is with painful regret I state it, that I +can only collect from Wood the “stet pro ratione voluntas,” +and that not very courteously given—but let that pass.</p> + +<p>The Government had an historical name, a great naval +reputation, in Keppel’s case. I beg to challenge contradiction +to my statement.</p> + +<p>Keppel has added to his naval fame, he ranks among the +bravest and ablest captains in the British Fleet.</p> + +<p>It cannot be said of him that he has received any <em>honour</em> +for his distinguished services in the chief command of the +Naval Brigade.</p> + +<p>Many officers, when the list was published, and since the +peace, and the widows of officers who never saw a gun fired, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[17]</span>have received the K.C.B. who have no claim superior to his; +do not misunderstand me, that I express any disapprobation +that such distribution has been made, I only wish to express +the pain I feel—that services less than his have been considered +by the Government as deserving of a higher reward.</p> + +<p>The Government intends to place before the public men +deserving of its respect when these honours are conferred.</p> + +<p>In giving to the immediate predecessor in the same command +and before the final victory the K.C.B., and withholding +it from Keppel, the Government inflicts a stigma on +Keppel as being unworthy to receive that which is bestowed +upon his immediate predecessor.</p> + +<p>I do assure you that extreme surprise and regret are +freely expressed by the highest, the ablest, and by a numerous +body of the navy at this unmerited stigma.</p> + +<p>Keppel does not know of my writing this letter to you. +I have known him from a child. I am deeply pained at the +publick disparagement.</p> + +<p>The recent demonstration at Portsmouth shows the +estimation in which he is held by both services. Why +should the Government ignore his merit?</p> + +<p>Will you, as an old friend, give me some explanation?</p> +</div> + +<p>On 27th August I received the following from +Panmure:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>“<span class="smcap">My dear Steenie</span>—The only bone between us is +removed. I have taken the Queen’s pleasure in making +Harry Keppel K.C.B.—Yours</p> + +<div class='signature'> +<p class='right pr1'>(Signed) <span class="smcap">Panmure</span>.”</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div class='signature'> +<p>God bless you, my dear Harry.</p> +<p class='pl8'>Ever your most devoted brother,</p> +<p class='pl16'><span class="smcap">Hy. Fred. Stephenson</span>.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p>[I hope I may be excused for inserting this letter, +but I can honestly declare that I had forgotten its +existence until the present moment, 27th June 1898, +when in turning over a heap of bygone manuscripts +I came across it by accident.</p> +<p class='right pr1'>H. K.]</p> + +<p class='mt1'><span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[18]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 3.</div> + +<p>Took leave of my kind host and hostess. 4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, +embarked on board <span class='ships'>Madras</span> (P. and O.) hired transport; +weighed at sunset.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>Left the <span class='ships'>Madras</span> at Suez by rail to Cairo; wheels +running on inverted iron saucers about five feet in +diameter. Embarked at Alexandria on board P. and O. +<span class='ships'>Ripon</span> for Southampton. Among passengers was +Mrs. Moir, the widow of a doctor who had been +killed by the mutineers, six hundred miles up country. +She lost one of her children in her flight, but found +it at Calcutta in the care of a friend who had picked +the child up on the road. Lieutenant Campbell was +also a passenger. He had made a wonderful escape +from the mutineers at Fyzabad. The mutiny +and its horrors, hairbreadth escapes of our friends, +the courage of the English women, and the heroic +work of Colin Campbell, Henry Havelock, Outram, +Windham, and many more gallant soldiers, was the +only subject of conversation on board the steamer.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 6.</div> + +<p>On December 6 arrived at Southampton. Joined +invalid wife at Bognor.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 27.</div> + +<p>At Holkham; where we remained until end of +year.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[19]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXIX"> + CHAPTER LXIX + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">England</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1858. +Jan. 1.</div> + +<p>After a few days between brother Edward and friend +Eyre we arrived in London. Brother Stephenson, as +deputy-ranger, placed the lodge in Hyde Park at my +disposal, which exactly suited the poor invalid. +The approaching wedding of the Princess Royal with +Prince Frederick William of Prussia caused the early +winter months to be unusually gay. I hardly like to +mention the names of those who were kind to me +under the delusion that I had taken care of their sons +in China.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 20.</div> + +<p>Was at the state ball, Buckingham Palace, +previous to the royal wedding, which took place on +25th.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 11.</div> + +<p>Dined with Her Majesty, Buckingham Palace.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 12.</div> + +<p>Dined with Rajah Brooke.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 21.</div> + +<p>The hunting season was now in full force. +Having invested with Tilbury for the hire of a +couple of horses, “Alice” and “General,” with +groom, at £30 a month, he to replace lame ones; +off to my nephew Edward Coke, owner of Longford +in Derbyshire. Determined frost, giving me time +to examine horses; both appeared well up to my +weight, and good jumpers.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 26.</div> + +<p>Wenny Coke put in an appearance. Frost +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[20]</span>continued the next ten days, making me wish +Mr. Tilbury had the horses in his own keeping.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 5.</div> + +<p>Change of wind, but none of weather.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 8.</div> + +<p>Rode Alice to Ingestre. Kindly welcomed by my +old friend Shrewsbury. Took up my quarters. +Walter Talbot staying here. Fine old place this +Ingestre—peacocks about.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 10.</div> + +<p>Taken to dine with the High Sheriff, P. Williams, +at Stafford.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 11.</div> + +<p>Ditto weather. Rode General with Walter Talbot +to Bifield, Lord Bagot’s. Cokes there, and Grosvenors—Lady +Constance, Di Coke, very pretty.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 15.</div> + +<p>Returned to London.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 20.</div> + +<p>Dined with Admiral Rous, a pleasure often +enjoyed. His parties were always sporting, I never +missed a race within reasonable distance. My good +elder brother could not understand why I was so +fond of “seeing a fool in red riding after a rogue +in yellow.”</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 27.</div> + +<p>Was getting into the train at Portsmouth, when +my faithful old coxswain, Spurrier, stopped me with, +“Think I have found Lord Gilford’s watch.” +During the two minutes of the train’s starting, he +explained that last evening his wife was in one of +the numerous haberdasher shops in Portsea; a well-dressed +woman came in and wanted a smart yacht +shirt for her friend. On being shown the usual +seaman’s shirt, she wanted something much smarter; +her man had a gold watch and chain that he was +proud of, and that Admiral Keppel had given him +a cheque for £10 only a few days before. Poor +women! how fast their little tongues will run.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter" id="i_021"> + <img class="h100" src="images/i_021.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption>Suspicious Junks.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>The giving the cheque I perfectly remember, as +well as the man I gave it to. To go back for a few +months before the little affair of the Fatshan Creek. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_21"></a><a id="Page_22"></a>[22]</span>The splendid crew of the <span class='ships'>Raleigh</span> were divided +into cruising boats and captured many suspicious +Chinese junks, some laden with cargo; but owing to the +scarcity of interpreters they were generally condemned +and their property confiscated. In the end the prizes +amounted to a sum of money: not much, if divided +among all the ships, but a nice little bonus for the +captors. On my being promoted and ordered home, +the captors of strings of pice agreed that I should +take charge of the money, converted from pice into +sterling bills, which I was to divide, as I thought +proper, among the wounded or most deserving characters +invalided home. A man belonging to my +wounded boat’s crew was one of the recipients.</p> + +<p>On arriving in London I went to Lord Clanwilliam’s +house in Belgrave Square and ascertained +the number of the gold chronometer watch he had +given to his son on leaving England. The bill, +receipted, was soon found. I then had to find my +friend Sir Richard Mayne, the Chief of Police. +He found an intelligent detective, to whom I gave +my late coxswain’s address at Portsea.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">April.</div> + +<p>Three days afterwards, leaning over the rails in Hyde +Park, a suspicious-looking character, whose appearance +I did not quite approve, rapped me on the shoulder +and beckoned me to join him. Great was my relief +when he informed me he had Lord Gilford’s watch. +Getting him to accompany me to Belgrave Square, +on the way he informed me that he had gone to +Spurrier’s house; they went together to the shop +where the girl had bought the shirt, but they had +seen no more of her. Walking back, although dusk, +Mrs. Spurrier spotted the girl on the opposite side of +the street. The detective accidentally placed himself, +in a way they have, and seeing a respectable girl +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[23]</span>asked if she had relations in the Navy—the Admiralty +had sent him down to seek proper objects for employment. +I need not say that in a few minutes he had the +state and condition of the man with the yacht shirt. +His respectable parents lived on the Isle of Wight, +etc. The next day detective found his way to the +parents’ house and had an interview. On his way back +he met Jack in the best of spirits rolling along; after a +few minutes’ talk the detective abstracted the watch +saying, “No. 8471: the one I was looking for.” +Two assistants crossed over from the opposite side. +By this time we were at Belgrave Square. Lord +Clanwilliam much pleased; also poor Lady Clanwilliam, +who was an invalid, but her pleasure was +followed by distress as to what would become +of the poor wounded man. I proposed to her +Ladyship that I should return the watch to the +poor fellow and her regrets for the trouble she +had given him! When I got below, the detective +told me that the man would be brought up +before the magistrates on the Wednesday following. +If no witnesses appeared he would be discharged. +A tenner from Lord Clanwilliam to the detective +ended the business. Curious that a watch stolen in +China, April 20, 1857, should have been recovered +by a detective in Portsea in the same month of this +year.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">April 5.</div> + +<p>Visit to Lord George Lennox at his “Bleak +House,” Southsea. While there, was invited to the +charming Goodwood for a few days.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 22.</div> + +<p>At United Service Club we entertained the Duke of +Malakoff at dinner. The <span class='ships'>Raleigh’s</span> crew had meanwhile +arrived at Chatham. The dog, Mike, in addition +to his performance at Fatshan, was at the storming +of Canton, where he had a scaling-ladder to himself +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[24]</span>and wore two medals. His appearance was enough +to clear the battery; the Chinamen fled, except those +stopped by bullets. Lord Lansdowne was fond of +dogs as well as music. At his request had Mike +brought up from Chatham, and he was much admired. +He had been given me by Captain Michael Quin, +hence his name, who was paying off while <span class='ships'>Raleigh</span> +was fitting out at Plymouth. Mike was unhappy +away from a ship. He was returned to Chatham, +and attended working parties on shore: I had not +the heart to remove him. The months April, May, +and June brought me into a society to which I had +been unaccustomed. Although I enjoyed it, it +hardly comes within a sailor’s life.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 10.</div> + +<p>Attended Her Majesty’s ball.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>As the following is copied from an old engagement +book and can interest near relations only, I +advise my readers to skip this and try next chapter.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 1.</div> + +<p>My pretty niece Annie Garnier married Colonel +Edward Newdigate.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 2.</div> + +<p>Cheery dinner at “The Ship,” Greenwich—Admiral +Milne, James Blyth, Charles Eden, and Colonel +F. Campbell.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 3.</div> + +<p>Dined, Skinner’s Company.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 5.</div> + +<p>Lady Palmerston’s evening.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 6.</div> + +<p>Dined with Duchess of Richmond.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 7.</div> + +<p>Dined with Lady Downs.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 11.</div> + +<p>Dinner with Merchant Taylors.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 12.</div> + +<p>Dined with Sir John Thorolds. Evening, Duchess +of Norfolk.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[25]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 15.</div> + +<p>70 Cranbury Park for Bibury Races, with Tom +Chamberlain. Have not time to describe the place +here, but in it were four beautiful pictures by +Romney of Lady Hamilton. Chamberlain’s son +was in the Balaklava charge. On the retreat his +horse was shot under him. He quietly took the +saddle off, put it on his head for a protection, and +calmly walked into camp. My sister Caroline, who +was staying with her father-in-law at Bishopstoke, +wrote me about a pretty cottage for sale. On my +arrival there I found a small sylph swinging on the +entrance gate, a daughter of Mr. Peter Wells. I +bought the place, with some good Italian furniture, +for £1500. There was a full-length picture by +Swenton of a beautiful lady, occupying one end of +the dining-room: this was the mother of my young +friend Zöe on the gate (now Lady Brougham and +Vaux). The lady was one of a handsome family, +such as artists delighted in; the background of the +picture was of trees, painted at Windsor Forest.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 16.</div> + +<p>Dined with H.R.H. Duke of Cambridge.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 20.</div> + +<p>Dined with Fred Gye, lessee of the Royal Italian +Opera, Covent Garden. At his charming house +near the Thames one met a varied society—Prince +Leiningen, Prince and Princess Victor of Hohenlohe, +the Countess Gleichen, Meyerbeer, statesmen, authors, +painters, singers, actors: it was indeed a cheery +centre. After dinner we always adjourned for dessert +to a glass room 120 feet long, delightfully cool in +summer, flowers and plants growing; the ladies left +the table to sit further away in this same room. Gye +used to give me passes to the theatres. I was one +night arranging baskets of flowers between banks, +where fairies were supposed to be resting, when the +curtain suddenly ran up faster than I could get to +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[26]</span>the wings. But though he was a stern disciplinarian +“behind,” Gye forgave me.</p> + +<p>Poor Gye’s terrible fate is fresh in my memory. +He was shot accidentally while on a visit to Lord +Dillon, and died near the covert side: sportsman +that he was, he always wished to be buried in one. +His sons have all made their mark. The eldest, +whom we used to call the “Baron,” married Madame +Albani and went on with operatic management. +Percy is a judge. Herbert went into the Navy +and served on the China station under me in 1869. +Another son was in the Artillery. His daughter, +Clara, I often see.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 23.</div> + +<p>Dined with Lord Alfred Churchill.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 26.</div> + +<p>Evening, Lady Palmerston. Dinner, Sir Anthony +Rothschild.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 28.</div> + +<p>Balls at Duchess of Hamilton’s and Lady Caroline +Maxe’s.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 29.</div> + +<p>Dined with Sir William Middleton. Evening, Lady +Pigot’s. During summer had been improving my +pretty, but small place at Bishopstoke, on the bank +of the river Itchen. The place suited me down to +the ground. The stabling, which I rebuilt, was perfection.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 30.</div> + +<p>Dinner with Mr. Newdigate at Blackheath.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 1.</div> + +<p>Dinner at Navy Club, entertaining First Lord.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 4.</div> + +<p>Luncheon, Duchess of Somerset. Dined with +Lord Methven.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 5.</div> + +<p>Dinner with Duke of Newcastle. Evening party, +Duchess of Manchester.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 6.</div> + +<p>Review at Aldershot.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 7.</div> + +<p>Lady Mayoress’s reception.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 8.</div> + +<p>Luncheon with Ranelagh. Dinner, Lord Sandwich. +Evening, Lady Jersey.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[27]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 9.</div> + +<p>Early dinner, Lady de Clifford. Later to +Cremorne Gardens.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 10.</div> + +<p>Lunch, Lady Shelley.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 11.</div> + +<p>Dinner Admiral Walcott. Party Lady Rokeby, +and ball at Duchess of Wellington’s.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 30.</div> + +<div class="sidenote">Cherbourg, +Aug. 5.</div> + +<p>Among friends I always received kind welcome on +board Sir Thomas Whichcote’s schooner yacht <span class='ships'>Enchantress</span>. +Towards the end of the season I was with +him at Cherbourg, where we had gone to witness the +Naval Fêtes, and the inauguration of the new railway. +Her Majesty and the Prince Consort arrived on the 4th +August, accompanied by Lords of the Admiralty and +a brilliant staff. Received by the Emperor Napoleon +III. and Empress Eugenie. The next morning, at +breakfast time, I took up the newspaper and read +the sudden death on 30th July, at the Earl of Fife’s +Seat, of my beloved brother-in-law, Stephenson.</p> + +<p>To be alone in my grief, I landed and strolled by +the side of the road up the hill to the high ground. +As if to distract my thoughts, I met a French +cavalry regiment marching up, their brass band playing +“Rule Britannia.” Was off by the 4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> +steamer to join my poor sister Mary, who with her +children was staying at Folkestone. The death had +indeed been sudden, heart complaint, while sitting up +in bed.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Sept.</div> + +<p>September found me shooting with Sir Thomas +Whichcote at Ashwarby in Lincolnshire.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Ashwarby +Park, +Sept. 28.</div> + +<p>Beautiful day and lots of birds—wild, of course, +they always are. With our four guns bagged 180 +partridges, 18 hares, 1 rabbit—making 199 head. +Whichcote did things well; as kind a host as man +could have. A good hot luncheon. Ditto dinner. +Very jolly.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 29.</div> + +<p>Another fine day. Same party; bagged 204 +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[28]</span>partridges, 18 hares, 1 rabbit. Haunch of venison +for lunch and other good things.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Ashwarby, +Sept. 30.</div> + +<p>Dirty weather with rain. Held up late, but high +wind. Same party; 131 head of game. Much +pleased at receiving a letter from Lord Palmerston +stating he had recommended me to Her Majesty for +the appointment of Groom-in-Waiting.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 1.</div> + +<p>Better weather, but high wind. Still lots of birds. +Same four guns; 200 partridges, 17 hares, 1 rabbit—218 +head! Finish to four good days’ sport, to say +nothing of the evening meal.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 2.</div> + +<p>Party breaking up. Freke and I in dogcart to +Lincoln. I to London.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 16.</div> + +<p>Up from Portsmouth. Put up at Westbourne +Terrace. There had been some cases of smallpox +near my chambers. Wandered about. Tabooed for +fear of infection.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 18.</div> + +<p>By 11 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> train to Bishopstoke. Found sister +Caroline and family at the Dean’s. Forgot all about +the smallpox and embraced the children!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 19.</div> + +<p>Busy rearranging Bishopstoke.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 23.</div> + +<p>By afternoon train to Southsea. Received by +George Lennox at Bleak House. Party to dinner. +The good George Greys, etc.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 24.</div> + +<p>Went over to Ryde by 12 o’clock boat. Back +with George Lennox to see the Michael-Seymours +before dinner.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 25.</div> + +<p>By 11 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> train to Bishopstoke. Dean off +again to Rooksbury. Sleep to-night in our own +cottage.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 27.</div> + +<p>By train to Southampton. Met George Lennox. +Went on board <span class='ships'>Pasha</span>, a Sultan’s yacht, very gaudy. +On board <span class='ships'>Ripon</span>, starting for Alexandria with +Indian passengers. George Lennox back with me to +Bishopstoke.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[29]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 28.</div> + +<p>George Lennox off to Portsmouth, and I to Sir +Francis Barings at Stratton. Found Pelhams and +Nevilles. Tom Baring and wife.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 29.</div> + +<p>Should have had some good shooting had the +leaves been off the trees. Six guns; 110 head.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 19.</div> + +<p>George Lennox and I in Gilman’s carriage to +Winchester; great luncheon at the Dean’s. Party +there. Lord Palmerston from Broadlands. Garniers +from Rooksbury. Gilman taking us back to Bishopstoke. +By train to Portsmouth. Put up at George +Lennox’s.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 23.</div> + +<p>Business at Admiralty. Dined with Rodney +Mundy’s mother; nice cheery old lady.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 24.</div> + +<p>By 4.30 train to Godstone. Found Rajah recovering +from his sad paralytic stroke.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 25.</div> + +<p>Took early leave of Brooke. Returned to +Bishopstoke.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 26.</div> + +<p>Found invitation to dine at Broadlands; unluckily +for yesterday.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 29.</div> + +<p>Colliers to dine.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 30.</div> + +<p>By 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> train to London.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 1.</div> + +<p>To Westbourne Terrace. Seconded resolution +made by Bishop of Oxford on Gospel in China. +Meeting at Willis’s Rooms. Much amused at Strand +Theatre. Our Marie Wilton a little darling.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 2.</div> + +<p>By Great Western to Berkeley Castle, to Admiral +Sir Maurice Berkeley. Extraordinary old place. +Not all the conveniences of modern houses, but made +up for in association. Castle wall left as knocked +down by Cromwell.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 4.</div> + +<p>Mounted by Sir Maurice. Well appointed pack. +Huntsmen and whips, etc., dressed in yellow +velveteen. Best run of the season; I mounted on +“Lord William.” Mrs. Berkeley and Mrs. A’Court +to dinner.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[30]</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">Sunday, +Dec. 5.</div> + +<p>Afternoon, inspected twenty-seven good hunters. +Hounds out for a walk. Handsome pack.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 7.</div> + +<p>By special train. Hounds and all, horses, servants, +etc., to Gloucester. Meet about five miles beyond. +Mounted on Pearce’s small black horse. Good +hunter.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 8.</div> + +<p>Capital mount by Armytage on one of his “jobs” +from Carey. First-rate run and I in good position +throughout. Baring of Cheltenham arrived.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 9.</div> + +<p>Baring, Armytage, and I hedgerow shooting. +Sport not much. Mrs. and Miss Canning arrived; +very tall. Mrs. Berkeley charming.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 10.</div> + +<p>Shooting to-day something more like; plenty of +foxes too.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 11.</div> + +<p>Mount again on Pearce’s little black horse. +Carried me right well throughout a longish day, one +fall into a lane. Have greatly enjoyed my visit to +Berkeley Castle.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 13.</div> + +<p>By early train to get across to Peterboro’ and Huntingdon. +On a visit to Hinchingbrook. Colonels +Knox and Vyse and wife, Annie Lady Montagu, +and niece Emily Leeds, etc.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 14.</div> + +<p>Shooting order of the day. Six guns; 189 head. +Duke of Manchester good shot. The charming +Duchess came to dine.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 15.</div> + +<p>Mounted by Lord Sandwich to meet Lord Fitz-William’s +hounds. Fog too thick to draw a fox. +Provoking—uncommon well mounted. The Manchesters +left.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 18.</div> + +<p>Up early, mounted by Lord Sandwich, to breakfast +at Kimbolton. Lord Cowper there. To meet the +Oakley. Did not find till late. Left to ride 22 +miles home.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 20.</div> + +<p>Mounted by Sandwich to meet the Cambridgeshire. +Nasty wooded country. Foxes, but no getting away. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[31]</span>Rode to station and returned to London by 1.30. +Dined with Rokeby. Met the Manchesters.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 23.</div> + +<p>By 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> train to Bishopstoke; lost my purse +between station and home, containing £9: 10s. +Horrid bore!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 25.</div> + +<p>Spent Christmas at Bishopstoke.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[32]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXX"> + CHAPTER LXX + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">England—Groom-in-Waiting</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1859. +Jan. 1.</div> + +<p>Saw the New Year in at the Southampton Yacht +Club House with George Lennox, having dined on +board Turner’s yacht.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 19.</div> + +<p>Received enclosed:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>(<span class="smcap">Copy.</span>)</p> + +<div class='address'> +<p class='center'> + <span class="smcap">Broadlands</span>, <i>18th January 1859</i>. +</p> +</div> + +<p class='cb'><span class="smcap">My dear Admiral Keppel</span>—If you should happen +to be disengaged on Thursday, would you come over to us +on that day and stay and help to beat a cover on Friday.—Yours +sincerely,</p> + +<div class='signature'> +<p class='right pr1'> + (Signed) <span class="smcap">Palmerston</span>. +</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 20.</div> + +<p>To Broadlands.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 21.</div> + +<p>At Broadlands, shooting.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 4.</div> + +<p>Dined with the Gilmans, meeting my old friend +Pereira of Dent’s House, Hong-Kong.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 11.</div> + +<p>Wife and I by train to Winchester. The good +Dean sending to meet us. Party to dinner.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 19.</div> + +<p>To Winchester to appeal against property being +assessed at £80, when it was £50. Gained appeal.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Bishopstoke, +Feb. 21.</div> + +<p>Augustus Leeds brought over the sad news of +Lady Sandwich’s sudden death. Sad indeed! +Planted a couple of deodars on bank of river.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 28.</div> + +<p>Train to Winchester. Dean entertaining judges +and grand jury at dinner.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[33]</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">London, +Mar. 2.</div> + +<p>Dressed at my tailor’s; attended Her Majesty’s +levée.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 3.</div> + +<p>By train to Sleaford and Ashwarby—Whichcote +sending for me. Got two hunters from Percival at +Lincoln. Welby to stop.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Ashwarby, +Mar. 4.</div> + +<p>Meet the Duke of Rutland’s hounds at Haverholm, +occupied by the Dowager Lady Winchilsea, +the beautiful Fanny Rice. Short runs with two +foxes. Bad scenting day; ground dry and hard. +Got one cropper!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 5.</div> + +<p>No hunting. After luncheon another walk. +Looked over ground, where some rasping jumps had +been taken.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 6.</div> + +<p>Marquis of Tweeddale kindly placed his horses at +my disposal.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 7.</div> + +<p>Hounds met at Glinn, Welby’s place. The +Drummonds and many friends there. Killed two +foxes; but a bad scenting day.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 8.</div> + +<p>Meet at Fulbeck—Reverend Fane’s. Rode +Percival’s horse, wilful brute; though a good +jumper.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 11.</div> + +<p>Meet at Turner’s. Mount from Lord Tweeddale, +in addition to my Percival; a short run in afternoon.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 13.</div> + +<p>Took leave of Tom Whichcote, etc. He appears +to have everything a man could wish.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 14.</div> + +<p>Arrived at North Creake for wedding. Miss +North and her sister Catherine, and their cousin, Sara +North, splendid girl of seventeen.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">North +Creake, +Mar. 15.</div> + +<p>Party increased by George and Augusta Keppel. +Twenty-two to dinner. Everything well arranged.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 16.</div> + +<p>Auspicious day arrived—sun shining, fourteen +bridesmaids. Edward performed. Stand-up breakfast, +seventy or eighty attending.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 17.</div> + +<p>General dispersion. Took up abode with Astleys: +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[34]</span>she charming. Two Miss Lee-Warners and Bobby +Hammond to dinner.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 18.</div> + +<p>Mounted by Astley with Lord Hastings’ harriers: +very good fun. Mrs. Astley’s riding first-rate: +she does everything well.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 24.</div> + +<p>Train to Diss. Met there by brother Edward. +Dogcart to Quidenham; friend Edward and Mrs. +Eyre to meet me at dinner.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">London, +Mar. 25.</div> + +<p>Eyre and wife taking me to Harling Station. To +London. Dressed at Four Swans, and dined at +Fishmongers’ Hall. Had to return thanks for the +Navy. Put up at friend Dunn’s, Lowndes Square.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 27.</div> + +<p>Dined with Clarence Paget.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 29.</div> + +<p>By 11 train, meeting Mark Wood at King’s Cross. +To Grantham. Walked to Syston. Party, Lord +and Lady Middleton, two Miss Reynardsons, Miss +Beaumont and brother, Reynardson, Wood, Gibbs, +Hillyard and his wife, Cole, Fox, and Whichcote. +Jolly. Cook, first-rate.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 30.</div> + +<p>A regular fall of snow. Party hunting nevertheless. +Grantham Hunt Ball good fun. Went with +the Misses Fane.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 31.</div> + +<p>Great meet of the Belvoir Hounds; with +Thorolds in their brougham. Mounted on a roarer, +saw part of a very good run.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">April 1.</div> + +<p>Croxton Park Races. Show of vehicles from +Syston. Box seat with Reynardson on his drag. +Races fair, and weather as usual. Bitter cold. Picked +up £15.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">April 2.</div> + +<p>Finish to an agreeable week at Syston.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">April 4.</div> + +<p>I never had time to attend to politics, but born of +a Whig family throw in my chance with kind friend +and honest politician, Sir Francis Baring. Stood with +him for Portsmouth. After a week’s chaffing and +riotous living, I found myself at bottom of poll! The +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[35]</span>difference between Whig and Tory now: one is dead, +and the other extinct!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 30.</div> + +<p>At Lord Denbigh’s.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 1.</div> + +<p>With Dunne and party to the great Derby race. +Won by Hawley’s “Musjid.” Dressed and went to +Her Majesty’s concert.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 3.</div> + +<p>On return from Epsom found at club telegraphic +message of my wife’s sudden illness. Arrived at +Bishopstoke 11 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> The poor wife had a fit at 6; +unconscious since.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 4.</div> + +<p>A succession of fits during the day. My true +friend Eyre here in answer to telegraph.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 5.</div> + +<p>Georgina Crosbie arrived in evening an hour +before the sad end.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 7.</div> + +<p>What could I have done without friend Eyre?</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 9.</div> + +<p>The last sad ceremony performed by the Dean of +Winchester in the Parish Church. Her brother +William and two sisters, my clergyman brother, +Edward and Reverend Edward Eyre attended, and +the good Rajah Brooke had a bouquet laid on the +coffin.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 9.</div> + +<p>Welcome to Larling from friend Eyre.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 18.</div> + +<p>At Quidenham Parsonage with Edward.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 10.</div> + +<p>Misfortunes never come singly. From Bombay +hear of Sussex Stephenson’s serious illness.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[36]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXI"> + CHAPTER LXXI + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">In Waiting</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1859. +Osborne, +Sept. 22.</div> + +<p>First appearance as Groom-in-Waiting at Osborne. +Her Majesty, with the Prince Consort, had gone to +Balmoral, leaving the younger Royal children, Prince +Leopold and Princess Beatrice, in charge of Lady +Caroline Barrington. Never was an Admiral who +felt so proud of being a groom. Lady Caroline came +of a stately family. As we walked into dinner I felt +myself smaller than I really was.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Sept. to +Oct.</div> + +<p>Carriages and steamers were at her ladyship’s +disposal; it was interesting to see how quickly +the charming young Prince learned to acknowledge +the sentries’ salutes as we passed.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 4.</div> + +<p>Delightful as the land excursions were in that +beautiful island, I felt more at ease when her ladyship +proposed a trip on board the <span class='ships'>Fairy</span> steam-yacht commanded +by my friend D. Welch, who handled her as if +she had been a jolly-boat. We went into Southampton +Docks at a pace which puzzled me. Lady Caroline +kindly proposed a trip in carriages up to my pretty +cottage at Bishopstoke, where I had the honour of +providing tea. H.R.H. the Duchess of Kent was +residing at Norris Castle. Lady Caroline and myself +went three evenings in the week to make up a rubber +of whist. H.R.H. was the only person who always +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[37]</span>lost. We were paid in the brightest shillings, +polished for the occasion.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 22.</div> + +<p>My term of waiting was only too soon over; I +was relieved by Colonel Cavendish.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Windsor +Castle, +Dec. 27.</div> + +<p>I was again in waiting at Windsor Castle, having +relieved Colonel Kingscote. Adjoining me were +Captain du Plat, Equerry to the Prince Consort; +and Captain George Henry Grey, Equerry to the +Prince of Wales; these young men were old friends +and agreeable companions. I took my two hunters +and put them up at Windsor. Everything was new +and interesting to me. Late, when we retired, my +friends the Equerries kindly came to my room to +enjoy their smoke. In the mornings we used to +assemble in the corridor, and there wait for orders, +riding, shooting, or whatever was going on.</p> + +<p>One morning the Equerries were wanted to attend +H.R.H., while I had permission to amuse myself, which +I did by a ride in Windsor Great Park. It appeared +that the Prince Consort, having bought some pictures +in London, wanted a fit place to hang them. Passing +through the Equerries’ rooms, H.R.H. came to mine. +I was, as stated, out riding. The Prince immediately +smelt smoke, and remarked, “The little Admiral told +me he did not smoke.” My friends only smiled, +H.R.H. was never undeceived! Once, when riding +was the order of the day, I rode my best hunter. +On crossing one of the streams, the Prince of Wales +proposed that I should try my horse over the river +instead of the bridge. I got over, but my horse +made an over-reach and struck my right heel, which +gave me pain. It was in 1840, when my father +was Master of the Horse, that a boy was found +concealed in a room adjoining Her Majesty’s. Since +then, it had been the custom, when Her Majesty +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[38]</span>was about to retire, for the Groom-in-Waiting to +precede, and see the coast clear. My foot gave me +pain, and I had taken up a spot in advance, when +these horrid Equerries, whom I had not forgiven +about the smoke, picked me up, and having planted +me in the right place, disappeared. I made a proper +bow when Her Majesty passed, and almost forgave +my playfellows about the smoke! The Prince +Consort had introduced the Christmas Tree, and +we used to dance the Old Year out and the New +Year in, to the tune of the “Old English.” When +the clock struck twelve, the band suddenly struck +up “God Save the Queen.” Everybody was very +hot, and everybody kissed his partner except myself. +I had the honour of dancing with Her +Royal Highness the Princess Louise.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[39]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXII"> + CHAPTER LXXII + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The Cape Command</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1860. +Jan. 1.</div> + +<p>At Windsor Castle. Ladies-in-Waiting—Lady +Caroline Barrington, Hon. Mrs. Bruce, and Lady +Ely, while the Maids of Honour were Hon. Beatrice +Byng and Hon. Emily Cathcart.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 5.</div> + +<p>Shooting with the Prince Consort were the Prince +of Wales and Duke of Cambridge, while in attendance +were Colonel F. H. Seymour, Major-General +Hon. R. Bruce, Captain George Grey, Colonel Clifton, +and myself. Earl de Grey was of the party.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 10.</div> + +<p>Finished my turn in waiting by hunting with the +Prince Consort’s harriers.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 17.</div> + +<p>To Berkeley Castle. Kind welcome from Sir +Maurice and Lady Charlotte.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 18.</div> + +<p>Hounds met at Sir G. Jenkins’s, who gave me a +good breakfast. Woodland country; plenty of foxes +killed.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 20.</div> + +<p>Wild-goose shooting: novel and interesting, but +hard work.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 21.</div> + +<p>Hunted from Berkeley Castle. Colonel “the +giant” in great force.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 23.</div> + +<p>Daily hunting; foxes often found in trees!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 24.</div> + +<p>My appointment to Cape command. By rail to +London; put up with sister Mary Stephenson.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 28.</div> + +<p><span class='ships'>Forte</span>, commissioned by Captain E. Turnour; +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[40]</span>Commander V. C. Buckley joined. Officers and +men joined by end of week. Ship being manned by +drafts from various ports; not allowed to enter seamen +for ourselves.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 11.</div> + +<p>Sunset, hoisted flag, white at mizzen.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 12.</div> + +<p>Saluted flag of Commander-in-Chief, Vice-Admiral +Edward Harvey. Issued contract; made clothing +according to recent regulations, hats included: a +mistake.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">March.</div> + +<p>Had some difficulty in getting Admiralty to +exchange the heavy old launches for the new forty-foot +pinnaces which are now supplied to all other +ships. Considerable difference in the stowage of this +ship and that of the <span class='ships'>Raleigh</span>.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 13.</div> + +<p>Joined Marquis of Queensberry, naval cadet, and +Mr. Stephenson, mid. Dockyard people building a +small poop for the accommodation of the captain, +secretary and flag-lieutenant—the poop not to +show above the hammock netting, and not to occupy +more of upper deck than just abaft the after gun. +Screw to be raised as in line-of-battleships: the best +arrangement under all circumstances that could be made.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 23.</div> + +<p>Cabins had already been fitted for the conveyance +of Sir George Grey and staff. An order to prepare +cabins for Lady Grey and maid, coming so late, +deprived me of half my accommodation.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">April 3.</div> + +<p>In consequence of Her Majesty’s kind consideration, +attended at Windsor as Groom-in-Waiting.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Windsor, +April 5.</div> + +<p>Attended confirmation of Prince Alfred. Lord +George Lennox as Lord of Bedchamber to the +Prince Consort.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">April 7.</div> + +<p><span class='ships'>Forte</span> left Sheerness for Spithead. Cheered by +the Norfolk Militia.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 10.</div> + +<p>Prince of Wales left for the Continent, attended +by Hon. R. Bruce and Captain George Grey.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[41]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 12.</div> + +<p>My little happy holiday over, Her Majesty +kindly hoping to see me back. Rejoined <span class='ships'>Forte</span> +at Spithead and rehoisted flag. Salutes exchanged +with Admiral Commander-in-Chief Wm. Bowles, C.B. +Was informed that on way round from Sheerness a +leak was discovered in the screw aperture.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April ;16.</div> + +<p>Steamed into harbour; secured alongside <span class='ships'>Sultan</span> +hulk. Transported guns forward and all heavy +weight to discover the leak.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 20.</div> + +<p>Ship taken into steam basin, preparatory to being +docked. In taking her in, dockyard people managed +to carry away jib-boom. No smoking allowed; +shifted ship’s company to <span class='ships'>Victorious</span> hulk.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 21.</div> + +<p>Hauled into No. 7 dock, dockyard people stopping +leak.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 23.</div> + +<p>Hauled out of basin, only just in time, ship +hung in entrance. Another two minutes, and she +must have grounded, as well as two three-deckers. +Sundry sheets of copper were rubbed off on port +side. Obliged to heel the ship to repair damage.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 27.</div> + +<p>Came to at Spithead.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 28.</div> + +<p>Noon, weighed, running for the Needles.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 29.</div> + +<p>10 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Came to in Plymouth Sound.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Plymouth, +April 30.</div> + +<p>Exchanged salutes with Commander-in-Chief, +Vice-Admiral Sir Barrington Reynolds, K.C.B. +3.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, having embarked His Excellency Sir +George and Lady Grey, Captains Speke and +Grant, African travellers, friend Boileau, and others, +weighed and left the Sound.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 9.</div> + +<p>3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Came to in Funchal Roads, Madeira. +While steaming in exchanged salutes 13 guns, +with Flag-Officer Inman, whose flag, blue at the +mizzen, was flying on board United States corvette +<span class='ships'>Constellation</span>, the first United States “Officer’s Flag” +we had seen. Saluted also the Portuguese flag with +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[42]</span>21 guns, and English Consul Erskine on his leaving +the ship.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 12.</div> + +<p>Ship was visited by Lord and Lady Fortescue and +family, also my kind friend of long standing, the +late Consul, Mr. Stoddard. As soon as they were +landed, weighed and made sail.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 24.</div> + +<p>Celebrated Her Majesty’s birthday by a dinner on +the poop. At 8 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> that celebrated old beast, +Neptune, hailed the ship, burning lights, etc., and +then came on board amidst the usual downfall of +water, and promised to pay his respects on the morrow +to all such as had not before passed through his +dominions, comprising three-fourths of those on +board. He then took his departure for the night, +to the relief of some and inconvenience of all, amidst +fire and water-works, the light of his car being +visible astern for an hour afterwards.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 25.</div> + +<p>His Oceanic Majesty came on board and performed +the usual ceremony.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 3.</div> + +<p>10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Steamed into Rio de Janeiro harbour. +Returned salute from <span class='ships'>Madagascar</span>. While running +in, and after coming to, had to return and exchange +no end of salutes. Brazilian Flag, 21 guns; +Admiral’s salute, 13; French man-of-war brig, 13; +and Prussian Commodore, 13.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Rio, +June 4.</div> + +<p>Passengers disembarked and proceeded to Petropolis. +<span class='ships'>Tribune</span>, 31, Captain Geoffrey Hornby, arrived +from Pacific and exchanged salutes.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 7.</div> + +<p>Passengers returned. Weighed and stood out of +Rio harbour.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 8.</div> + +<p>12.5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Henry Hill, seaman, fell overboard +while the ship was going 10 knots under sails and +steam. Cutter fitted with Clifford’s admirable +apparatus for lowering was down in the shortest +time and the man saved.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[43]</span></p> + +<figure class='figcenter' id='i_043'> + <img class='h100' src='images/i_043.jpg' alt=''> + <figcaption><span class='ships'>Forte</span> at Rio.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[44]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 9.</div> + +<p>An untoward event occurred during the first +watch. Under extreme pressure from Captain +Turnour and the surgeon, who stated that the +Governor would either commit suicide or murder his +wife, I consented to return to Rio Janeiro, and +reached that port on the evening of the 12th. Next +morning, having landed the Governor, Lady Grey, +and maid, sent an officer to know when His +Excellency would be ready to embark. He sent +word he was then ready, and that if I would not +write home what had occurred he would not. I +kept <em>my</em> word.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 13.</div> + +<p>Sailed, and arrived at Simon’s Bay on 4th July, +8 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> His Excellency was in such a hurry to +convey to Admiral Sir Frederick Grey the fact of his +arrival, that, unseen, he dropped himself into a shore +boat and landed at Admiralty House.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Simon’s +Bay, +July 5.</div> + +<p>Landed, after usual salutes, to pay respects to +Admiral Sir F. Grey. I mentioned the Governor’s +message to me at Rio, to the effect that if I would +not write home what had occurred he would not. I +ascertained that in his statement to Sir Frederick he +made out that the proposition not to communicate +home came, in the first place, from me to him. +This untruth accounts for my subsequent treatment.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 8.</div> + +<p>The <span class='ships'>Forte</span> requiring a thorough refit, shifted flag +to my friend Captain Algernon de Horsey’s ship, the +<span class='ships'>Brisk</span>, and with our travellers, Speke and Grant, +prepared to visit the East Coast.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[45]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXIII"> + CHAPTER LXXIII + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Cape Command—Flag in <span class='ships'>Brisk</span></span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1860. +Monday, +July 16.</div> + +<p>Embarked with Flag-Lieutenant and Secretary. +Hoisted flag on board <span class='ships'>Brisk</span>, Captain Algernon de +Horsey. Received with yards manned. Embarked +Captains Speke and Grant, with his guard of 100 +Hottentots, volunteers from the Cape Mounted +Rifles; also 12 mules, the Cape Parliament having +voted £300 to purchase them for the interesting +expedition. Sailed at sunset, leaving <span class='ships'>Forte</span> with +Captain Turnour in charge. Rounded to on signal.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 21.</div> + +<p>3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Came to in 9-1/2 fathoms off the mouth of +Buffalo River. The township of East London on the +south entrance composed of storehouses and other +new and neat-looking buildings. At the end of a +substantial stone wharf stands a lighthouse to correspond—not +mentioned in the charts; it showed a bright +fixed light. The town is communicated with by a +surf boat hauled to and fro over the bar by means +of a hawser, one end of which is attached to an anchor +outside; as uninviting a coast to approach as can be +imagined. Should a railway or any good road for the +conveyance of the produce of the country be established +to Algoa Bay, the Port of East London may +prove unworthy of the name it has assumed. At +5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> weighed, proceeded under sail.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[46]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 24.</div> + +<p>No observation yesterday, but those of to-day +at noon showed that the current for the last 48 hours +had been south-west. 97 miles. Proceeded making +particular survey of coast.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 26.</div> + +<p>Came to at 4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, in the magnificent Bay of +Delagoa, about 7 miles from the entrance of the river. +Sent a boat in to communicate: but more to ascertain +what might be doing in the slave way.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Shefeen +Island, +July 27.</div> + +<p>Landed at daylight on the Island of Shefeen; +more for the purpose of hauling the seine than +shooting; nevertheless took my Whitworth rifled +carbine. Observing along the sand prints of a small +cloven foot, which I took to be that of the pig, Algie +Heneage and I struck into the bush; stunted trees, +but in places tolerably clear underneath. At first +there was little to attract our attention beyond +sundry paroquets and an occasional pigeon, for the +destruction of which we were not prepared.</p> + +<p>I fired once at some distance at what I imagined to +be rabbits, playing about at the edge of the jungle, but +they were too nimble for me. It was while on our +return towards the beach, where we expected a breakfast +of fresh-caught fish, that a beautiful antelope +bounded across our path. It was large for an +animal of that species, a dark reddish-brown colour. +I was now satisfied that the numerous footprints that +we had seen were not pig, but those of deer. The +jungle being too thick for us to beat, or even see +many yards into, proposed that we should conceal +ourselves in any likely-looking shady spot, with +sufficient clear range for a fair shot.</p> + +<p>The ground was dry and the air clear of mosquitoes. +We had been quiet for about a quarter of +an hour, when I observed an antelope approaching, +apparently unconscious of danger, nibbling the bits +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[47]</span>of herb or grass that grew up between the dead +leaves, when within twenty paces of our position +it stopped to feed, broadside towards us. It was +a full-grown doe. I observed her pretty head with +its beautiful large black eye, and not wishing to +spoil what I intended to have stuffed as a trophy, I +raised my rifle and aimed, so as to hit her just +behind the shoulder. Heneage was ready, knife +in hand, to cut her throat, when I pulled the +trigger; the lock snapped, and in a moment my +beauty bounded into the jungle. I had forgotten +to put a cap on; the rifle was a breechloader, to +which I was hardly accustomed. Our disappointment +can well be imagined.</p> + +<p>We remained a short time longer in the same spot, +hardly hoping that anything else would come near us. +Now these antelopes, with their spindle legs and tiny +feet, make no noise, but on looking in the direction +I observed a whole troop of small monkeys, whose +curiosity had brought them to ascertain who the +intruders were who had so disturbed the quiet of +their domain. They had spread themselves over +some width of ground, and were advancing with all +the caution of so many diminutive riflemen. When +within about fifty yards one of those in advance +made us out and gave notice.</p> + +<p>They came to “general halt,” which was followed +by a general chatter, and I could observe each small +round head peeping from behind the stump of bush +or tree where it had taken shelter. Theirs were little +black faces, surmounted by a white fringe, which +somewhat resembled the frill of a woman’s cap. The +body was green, belly white, and tail long; however, +as they did not appear inclined to make a further +advance, sent a bullet at the head of one who appeared +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[48]</span>to have the command, and I was glad to find that I +had only struck the stump of the bush behind which +he had concealed his active little carcass.</p> + +<p>Their curiosity having been gratified, they scampered +away on all fours, chattering and closing +together as they went along. We never saw them on +either bushes or trees, which caused me to think that +those small things were the same sort I had a distant +shot at in the morning, and must have been monkeys +and not rabbits.</p> + +<p>We soon shifted our berth some little distance to +a spot affording a tolerable range, considering the +denseness of parts of the jungle, and made ourselves +comfortable, perhaps too much so, as after a while I +started from a reverie to a pinch from Algie, and +from the quarter pointed at could just see the round +red back of an antelope moving towards us. I held +in my breath as it approached. Unfortunately I had +laid aside my rifle. The motion to lay hold of it was +sufficient to cause the creature to raise its head, and +the noise of the loose steel ring on the stock of the +cavalry carbine made it dash into the bush, where it +was out of sight in an instant.</p> + +<p>It would be useless to describe the number of +chances we had or the number of deer we might have +bagged if something had not happened.</p> + +<p>Our last chance occurred when we had agreed to +take up positions on separate mounds, covered with +brush and stunted trees, two-thirds round, about +twenty yards in width, round which was a fair open +space of long grass. In less than half an hour we +observed a fine antelope come out of the jungle within +ten yards of where I knew that Algie must be lying. +It stopped and looked about, and I saw that it was +about the size of a calf, but with the thinnest legs; +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[49]</span>so delicate and slender as to appear unfit to support +the round, plump body it had to carry. Watched, +expecting every moment to see the beautiful creature +bound into the air and fall to the report of Algie’s +gun. However, it walked leisurely—stepping a trifle +lame with the near hind leg—across into the opposite +bank.</p> + +<p>I had my rifle to my shoulder, but Heneage had +been so kind in allowing me all the former chances, +I thought it would not be doing the handsome if I +deprived him of this, the last and only one he would +have. When I inquired how he had come to allow +so good an opportunity to pass, I found he had just +awoke from a pleasant sleep.</p> + +<p>We returned on board, amused and interested, +but having had a blank day, did not boast. De +Horsey, in pulling up the Tenby river, saw a hippopotamus, +but he had no gun with him. The Governor +informed us that there were plenty of rhinoceros as +well as elephant in the neighbourhood. I noticed a +magnificent pair of tusks in his room.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[50]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXIV"> + CHAPTER LXXIV + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">East Coast Sport</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1860. +Aug.</div> + +<p>After leaving Delagoa Bay it was not much out of +our way to pass the small island of Europa, said to +abound in turtle.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Europa +Island, +Aug. 2.</div> + +<p>We made it at about 9 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> on Thursday, +August 2. The moon was at its full. Although +a partial eclipse darkened it for a while, by the time +we were off the north end of the island the moon +shone out in full splendour. It was thought that +nothing would be easier than to heave the ship to and +send a boat in and bring off as many turtle as we +required. At 10 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> a party shoved off in the +cutter, and shortly afterwards Heneage, O’Rorke, +and self left in the galley.</p> + +<p>We found a sea breaking on a reef that bounded +the coast, but farther to the west the breakers became +smaller as we got under its lee. A coral reef extending +along the coast a full half mile from the shore +was clearly distinguishable. Watching our opportunity +we got on to shelving coral, it being dead low +water, and then found that we had a good quarter +of a mile to haul her over water which varied from +nothing to six or eight feet with deep holes. However, +these were made clear by the light of the moon, +and nothing was left but to haul the boat over, or +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[51]</span>return on board. The water deepened into a comparatively +clear space between it and the shore, +forming a sort of lagoon. The boat was easily +pushed through this, and we landed shortly after +midnight.</p> + +<p>Leaving the remainder to light a fire and prepare +for a night’s bivouac, O’Rorke and self started along +the beach to the westward to look for turtle. +Although there were the tracks of many in the +sand, we had travelled two miles before we came to +marks that appeared fresh. A large turtle had been +coquetting about, as is their wont, in search of a fit +spot in the dry sand to deposit her cargo of eggs.</p> + +<p>In this instance, it was evident that the old lady +had been difficult to please, as after many turns +and windings the track led again inland; and sure +enough, ten yards from the beach, then about eight +inches deep, appeared a small oval-shaped hillock, +exposed by day to the heat of the sun. It was +evident, when we got alongside, the turtle was sleeping +away the time until the rising tide had lifted her +high enough to allow of her proceeding to sea for +further amusement.</p> + +<p>The first she must have known of our presence +was by the feel of our hands under the outer edge +of her shell—a sort of tickling under the ribs—by +which we endeavoured to turn her on her back. +This she resented by striking out with all four fins, +and not only covering O’Rorke with sand and water, +but sending me sprawling on my back. Luckily she +was aground.</p> + +<p>O’Rorke started into the jungle, returning presently +with two branches, the best he could get, +to act as levers, with which to turn her over. +This was a far more troublesome job than we +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[52]</span>expected. The weight of the brute alone was +360 lbs., and the strength of the foremost fins +wonderful; however, after considerable twisting +and manœuvring we managed, with our levers, +to get her off side to the edge of a hollow about +eight feet by six, and with this advantage, and a +heave together, we turned her over. There she lay +on her back flapping wet sand, but comparatively +helpless. The tide was now rising, and there was +nothing left but for O’Rorke to return to where we had +left the boat for assistance, leaving me to manage the +best I could. I suppose I am the first Admiral who +ever kept the middle watch on a turtle. As the sea +rose over the outer reef it came rolling in to where I was +seated, and as each roller lifted my charge she renewed +her struggles to get rid of me. Our object was to +keep her head towards the sandy beach, which rose +rather abruptly, by inserting one end of the lever, +which was crooked, under her back and behind her +fore fins when she raised herself up, which she did +whenever a roller came to her assistance. To prevent +her floating, I seated myself on her stomach. By these +means I caused her to heave herself in nearer the +shore, but in doing this I got so plastered with wet +sand that I must have had the appearance of a small +pyramid. At another time she gave me such a slap +on the knee, I thought my leg was broken; the pain +was great.</p> + +<p>I never had so troublesome a watch; it appeared +to me O’Rorke had been hours away, although +the good fellow had run there and back. Having +to keep 360 lbs. weight struggling to save its +embryo family from being made into omelets, herself +into “soups and steaks,” as I saw afterwards +chalked on her back, was no small undertaking. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_53"></a><a id="Page_54"></a>[54]</span>Nor can I describe my delight when some of the +boat’s crew hove in sight. Another struggle with +the brute and I must have given in or have been +carried out to sea holding on to the hind fins, +like my friend King George of Tonga Tabu.</p> + +<figure class='figcenter' id='i_053'> + <img class='h100' src='images/i_053.jpg' alt=''> + <figcaption>My middle watch.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Having secured our turtle, a further walk along +the sandy beach, a bend to the S.W. brought us +within reach of unpleasant smells, and close to a +projecting point, within sight of the remains of a +huge whale, from which rats, by thousands, were +rushing towards the jungle; when the crabs, to say +nothing of conger eels, cleared the bones of the +monster, they fell to the ground.</p> + +<p>We secured several joints of the backbone, +which, when cleaned and covered with canvas, were +formed into curious camp stools, in my garden at +Bishopstoke. How the monster got where we found +him, over the half-mile of coral-bound coast, we +wondered; unless the unfortunate brute was thrown +over the reef and stranded during one of those +fearful hurricanes which visit these latitudes.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Europa +Island, +Aug. 2.</div> + +<p>The shooting was not much. There were some +goats running wild; the sire of this stock was +described as a magnificent fellow, with an immense +beard and strong smell. A few pigeons were seen, +but so unaccustomed were they to the intrusion of +human beings as to allow themselves, when fatigued, +to be chased from bush to bush, knocked over by +stones or sticks. The frigate birds, some black, +visit these latitudes.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Aug. 3.</div> + +<p>Much excitement was caused at low tide by our men +chasing, between the openings of the coral, rock cod, +conger-eels, and parrot fish—the latter of a brilliant +green colour, some of them weighing four or five +pounds.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[55]</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">Mozambique, +Aug. 7.</div> + +<p>5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Came to in Mozambique Harbour in 5-1/2 +fathoms. A berth that would suit the <span class='ships'>Forte</span>. Care +to be taken running in, in a long ship. Saluted +Portuguese flag. Like most Portuguese forts, on +a grand scale, but the guns are small and out of +date; about 100 men. A few small vessels at anchor. +Trade small, principally in ivory, rhinoceros horns, +and ebony. Slaver in disguise. Was received by +the Governor, Don Joao Tavares de Almeida, who +did me the honour of dining with me on board. No +Consul. One Don Joao de Costa Sourez most +obliging.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 9.</div> + +<p>7 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Weighed, made sail.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 10.</div> + +<p>Having been in these seas before, I cautioned +Captain de Horsey to keep a good look-out for +slavers. We were running under sail with light +southerly winds, and proposed fires being lighted and +banked up. De Horsey was particular about +desecrating the Sabbath, but in the afternoon a sail +was reported. Later she was made out from the masthead +standing to the eastward. I advised De Horsey +to take his glass and see for himself.</p> + +<p>Before he was half-way up the fore-rigging I gave +the order to light the fires. The smoke had no +sooner ascended than the look-out on the fore-top-gallant +yard sang out, “She’s gone round without +taking her studding sails in.” The wind fell light +by sunset. We stopped engines under the stern of +a fine rakish-looking ship. Lieutenant Adeane was +sent on board, and took possession of the <span class='ships'>Manuela</span>, +formerly the <span class='ships'>Sunny South</span>, a Rio packet of upwards +of 702 tons. She had 846 slaves on board, and was +waiting to complete 900 before proceeding round +the Cape to Cuba. She had been hovering off the +coast for weeks to complete her cargo. We sent her +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[56]</span>into Pomony. I went on board, she was a fine-looking +ship, seven feet between decks. However, +on looking down the fore hatchway, the stench +was intolerable. Sent prize in charge of Lieutenant +Burlton to the Mauritius.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[57]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXV"> + CHAPTER LXXV + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Zanzibar—Shooting Hippopotami</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1860. +Aug. 18.</div> + +<p>Arrived at Zanzibar. Having expressed a wish to +see the hippopotamus in his native state, Speke, being +aware of my weakness, kindly invited me to accompany +him to where sport was almost a certainty. It +was necessary to procure a dhow, on board which a +party could live.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 19.</div> + +<p>Our proposed trip soon got wind. An unusual +noise throughout Sunday night on board the +Sultan’s yacht was accounted for in the morning +by one Captain Mahomet informing us, which we +had been well aware of, viz. that he had been all the +night bending sails, and half the morning bastinadoing +his crew; he stated he had received orders to +convey me across the channel.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 21.</div> + +<p>From this infliction I, however, excused myself, as +well as from that of the company of the half-civilised, +drunken rogue who commanded her. Through the +kind influence of Colonel Rigby, Luddah, a Banyan, +British subject, and head of the Customs, placed at our +disposal a new dhow, with a captain and fourteen +Arabs. Hoping to expedite their movements, Speke, +Heneage, and myself embarked on Monday night, +so as to start early the following morning; but +at that time we were not as experienced in Arab +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[58]</span>movements as we have since been. It commenced +raining soon after we got on board, and on our +taking shelter below we found the deck overhead +leaked, and the stench from the bilge water sickening. +We got under weigh at 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>; at 5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> anchored +in an extensive bay off a village called Kesooku. +About the bay were shoal patches of sand and +several small islands with mangrove bushes, over the +roots of which the tide flowed when up; it was on and +about these islands that we expected to find our game.</p> + +<p>We were welcomed to the village by a Bombay +Banyan Chief. Having given us a refreshing drink +from green cocoanuts, he cleared out part of a store +hut for our accommodation. We made up our beds +outside on stretchers under the shade of the projecting +roof.</p> + +<p>It appears that the habits of the hippopotami are +to land at night for food, betaking themselves to +the retirement of the small islands before break of +day. Such unwieldy brutes cannot travel on shore +without leaving marks, by which they are easily +traced, and generally return to the water by the +same paths. As they are never molested by the +natives, we thought we might intercept them before +they went to rest, and intended to be up at 3 o’clock, +but it rained and our native servants neglected to +call us. We went later to try for guinea-fowl, which +were said to be plentiful and excellent eating. A +covey of them was seen but not got at.</p> + +<p>Our next plan was to proceed to the patches of +islands in the bay, so as to reach them before low +water, about which time our experienced friend, +Speke, considered that the hippopotami would be +more likely to be caught napping or basking in the +mud. We approached the islet with caution.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[59]</span></p> + +<figure class='figcenter' id='i_059'> + <img class='h100' src='images/i_059.jpg' alt=''> + <figcaption>A right and left shot.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[60]</span></p> + +<p>I shall not forget the first wild hippopotamus I +saw: a huge ugly brute, standing up to his middle in +water, apparently indifferent to our approach, until +within fifty yards, when he moved leisurely towards +some rocks where the water was deep and disappeared. +On rounding the rocks, we opened on an extended +sand-flat and observed several Sibuko, half in the +water, with one fine fellow standing separate. To the +left, and within forty yards of him, was a small clump +of trees. As soon as our boat grounded, took up my +position, as prearranged, on that side, and stalking +under shelter of bushes, got pretty close, with a rest +for my gun. Speke and Heneage had spread out to +the right, so as to cut off his retreat that way to the +sea. Within forty yards, when I thought they were +quite ready, I fired <em>my first shot</em>. The monster +seemed more astonished than hurt, although a stream +of blood from the side of his neck showed where my +ball had told. While he hesitated, the others broke +away in a parallel direction to that I was moving in. +They were close together, the head of the Hippo +nearest to me being a little in rear of the shoulder of +his companion. Had my double-barrel smooth-bore +ready. It does not often fall to the lot of man to get +right and left shots at a brace of hippopotami. I +took the nearest; hit him just behind the ears, struck +the spine, and brought him on his knees. The thick +skull of the other turned my second ball.</p> + +<p>Instead of dropping, as I expected, he took a +survey of the ground, hesitated a minute, eyed his +dying chum, and made a rush to the path where I +stood. With all due deference, I made a move out +of his way, fell backward, gun going off.</p> + +<p>Before I was on my legs I heard Speke’s gun: +Sibuko had had his quietus. I now seated myself +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[61]</span>on the root of a tree near where my first Sibuko lay; +while contemplating the monster, I felt a drop of +blood on the back of my hand, and looking up, found +that I had shot the dark native who carried my spare +ammunition, he having taken refuge when the Hippo +No. 2 made his charge in my direction. We got the +poor fellow down, moaning and crying; found the +ball had passed through the fleshy part of his thigh +without touching the bone. The next day he was +taken across to the hospital. After a few days and a +small donation he was ready and willing to be shot at +again! The dead Sibuko was given the natives to +eat: it was curious to see how cleverly they cut the +flesh, or rather the fat, before taking the skin off, +beginning at the backbone and cutting straight down +in strips about four inches square, apparently to me +of solid fat, and portioned according to the number +in a greedy family. Of course I retained the head, +which, with the other, was recovered from the natives +and buried in the hot sand; after a few days they +were taken out sweet and clean, the latter operation +performed by white ants. They now occupy, or +ought to, a place in the Winchester Museum.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[62]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXVI"> + CHAPTER LXXVI + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Zanzibar</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1860. +Aug. 24.</div> + +<p>Returned to Zanzibar; found <span class='ships'>Brisk</span> absent in +search of a slaver that had landed a man on the +island who was made prisoner by the Sultan, and +afterwards sent on board with a request that he +might be given up to the Spanish Consul.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 25.</div> + +<p><span class='ships'>Brisk</span> returned with the prisoner, who stated himself +to be the doctor; pretended to know nothing +about his movements, although he told a different +story to the slaver’s friend, the Consul of Imperial +France. Fresh water on the island: good, although +the streams for watering at inconvenient distances. +By proper application through Colonel Rigby, our +obliging Consul, natives, or rather slaves, can be sent +to bale the water to fill the casks. Fruit and +vegetables were given for the ship’s company +daily.</p> + +<p>Found the Sultan kind and obliging; he had a +large stud of arabs, and when he found that I could ride, +presented me with a couple, whose pedigrees, drawn +up in Arabic, commenced some eighty years ago. I +got the good Consul to explain that I had no place +to put them in. A few days after His Highness +presented me with a handsome gold-mounted sabre, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[63]</span>with which I was well pleased. On my exhibiting it +to my Secretary he admired it as much as I did, but +on referring to the station order-book, on no account +was an officer permitted to receive a present or +presents from any foreign authority.</p> + +<p>Here was a nice mess! I went to Colonel Rigby +to ask him to return the sword and apologise. He +said such a thing was impossible; it would not be +understood: in fact, almost made me to understand +that it would be a <i lang='la'>casus belli</i>! I had the sword +wrapped in cotton and stated the case to the Board +of Admiralty. +1860.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 26.</div> + +<p>4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Sailed from Zanzibar, giving the good +Sultan a parting salute.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 2.</div> + +<p>Took pilot. Stood into Port Mahé, all dangers, +rocks and shoals being visible under a bright sun. +Anchored in 10 fathoms. All large timber had +long been cut down—underwood, the sweetest +cedar.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 16.</div> + +<p>Communicated with our prize, the <span class='ships'>Manuela</span>, at +anchor off Flat Island. Came to off the Bell Buoy, +Mauritius. I was last here in the <span class='ships'>Tweed</span> in April +1829.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 21.</div> + +<p>Prize arrived from Flat Island.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 25.</div> + +<p><span class='ships'>Brisk</span> having got on shore off the east coast in +February sustained some damage, which rendered her +docking necessary. Copper rubbed off; planking +damaged.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 7.</div> + +<p>6 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Weighed and proceeded under steam +round the north end of the Island. 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Came +to in 6 fathoms in Mahébourg Harbour.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 19.</div> + +<p>Slipped from mooring and steamed out of Port +Louis. Came to in Mahébourg Harbour 1.50 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 22.</div> + +<p>Governor visited the ship. Manned yards and +saluted.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[64]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 27.</div> + +<p>His Excellency kindly took me a two days’ trip +round the island by land.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 29.</div> + +<p><span class='ships'>Wasp</span>, 13, Commander C. Stirling, arrived. Shifted +flag to her; sent <span class='ships'>Brisk</span> to relieve <span class='ships'>Forte</span>, ordered here.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 8.</div> + +<p><span class='ships'>Forte</span> arrived.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[65]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXVII"> + CHAPTER LXXVII + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap"><span class='ships'>Forte</span> Flag Re-hoisted</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1860. +Nov. 9.</div> + +<p>Re-hoisted flag in <span class='ships'>Forte</span>. Fired Royal Salute +at noon, in honour of Prince of Wales’s birthday.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Mauritius, +Nov. 14.</div> + +<p><span class='ships'>Persian</span>, 12, arrived from Seychelles, and saluted +flag. Commander Hardinge, having sustained a +severe but accidental wound in the foot, was unfortunately +rendered unfit for duty.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 15.</div> + +<p>French war steamer <span class='ships'>La Somme</span> arrived from +Réunion, bearing the broad pennant of the Commodore, +with whom we exchanged salutes. In +afternoon proceeded to Tombeaux Bay. Came to +off Monsieur de Courson’s sugar mills.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Tombeaux +Bay, +Nov. 17.</div> + +<p>Joined by <span class='ships'>Persian</span>, 12, sloop. Made arrangements +for sham fight to come off on the 20th. +<span class='ships'>Wasp</span>, in dock, was found to have sustained considerable +damage while on shore off Slave Krop Point.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 20.</div> + +<p>Soon after daylight observed the troops, consisting +of 5th and part of 24th Regiments, with artillery, +marching down and crossing pontoon bridge at head +of bay. These were followed by a strong party of +police. From that time until afternoon there was +one continuous string of natives and people of all +sorts arriving from Port Louis and country round, +taking up positions to see the fight, for which nothing +could be better adapted than the high land about the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[66]</span>head of Tombeaux Bay. At noon visitors arrived on +board. After luncheon we commenced landing them +on a commanding point out of range, but from which +I could command by signal, assisted by a very pretty +French lady.</p> + +<p><span class='ships'>Forte</span> and <span class='ships'>Persian</span>, having been swung broadside +to the point of attack, the boats formed into two +lines abreast: lighter boats landing storming parties, +gunboats following to cover disembarkation.</p> + +<p>The point to be carried was a high mound at the +head of the bay, about two hundred yards inland. +The landing to be effected under cover of the ship’s +guns. The enemy’s picquets were driven in, and +their skirmishers retired. The hill was stormed and +carried, supposed forts blown up. Enemy, having +received reinforcements, endeavoured to outflank and +cut off retreat. On the order to retire, the mound +was reoccupied by the enemy, and pressing us with +artillery on a retreat, desperate fighting was the result. +The storming party would have been made prisoners, +had not their re-embarkation been covered by the +ships, who opened fire and kept the enemy in check.</p> + +<p>So ended the Battle of Tombeaux Bay, a successful +exhibition which delighted some twenty thousand +natives and residents, without an accident. A ball +in a house kindly lent by Mr. de Courson, the +Mayor, finished the night.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 21.</div> + +<p>Returned to Port Louis.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Mahébourg, +Nov. 22.</div> + +<p>Grand ball given by Governor and Mrs. Stevenson. +Weighed at daylight. <span class='ships'>Persian</span> in company. Came +to in the harbour of Mahébourg, where I was kindly +entertained by the Colonel and officers 5th Regiment.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 28.</div> + +<p>Inspected <span class='ships'>Persian</span>—fine crew and in good order.</p> + +<p>Steamed out of the harbour: exchanged cheers +from the rigging on parting company.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[67]</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">Simon’s +Bay, +Dec. 15.</div> + +<p>2.15 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Storm coming on, ran for Simon’s Bay. +Furled sails. Came to with both bower anchors +after having brought up with 75 fathoms of cable +ahead; ship drifted to a fresh squall; parted small +bower cable, and, as we afterwards discovered, stock +of best bower broken. Ship brought up by sheet +and spare anchors when within half her length of the +rocks, but held on by help of steam screw until evening, +when gale moderated. It <em>can</em> blow in the neighbourhood +of the Cape! Found here <span class='ships'>Brisk</span>, <span class='ships'>Lyra</span>, +<span class='ships'>Hornet</span>, and <span class='ships'>Enchantress</span>, the latter our prize, <span class='ships'>Manula</span>, +rechristened, and bought into the service for use in +suppression of slavery on the east coast. Found also +the <span class='ships'>Pioneer</span> from England refitting for the Zambesi +expedition.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 16.</div> + +<p>Rather bored with continued gales, unusual at +this time of year. Went up to Cape Town to visit +my kind friends. The races were going on at Green +Point, to which I went, attended by groom only. +Among others found myself, without seeking him, +close to His Excellency Sir George Grey, my late +passenger in the <span class='ships'>Forte</span>, surrounded by his staff.</p> + +<p>Found a letter from my clergyman friend, Eyre, +dated September 30, in which he stated that he had +some qualms of conscience about writing on the +Sabbath, but recollecting what he had read in the +Gospel for the day, he determined to continue.</p> + +<p>In Cape Town was Doctor Livingstone waiting +for an opportunity to get to the Zambesi. Informed +him of one in the <span class='ships'>Pioneer</span>; and, like the sinewy-looking +man that he was, he walked the whole way to +Simon’s Bay.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[68]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXVIII"> + CHAPTER LXXVIII + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The Cape Command</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1861. +Simon’s +Bay, +Jan. 1.</div> + +<p>Succeeded in getting <span class='ships'>Sidon</span> under weigh, with <span class='ships'>Pioneer</span> +in tow, at 9 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 2.</div> + +<p>6 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Slipped moorings and steamed out of +Simon’s Bay. Rounded Cape Point. 9.—Made sail, +passing between the Bellows Rock and the Main. Up +screw.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Flag in +<span class='ships'>Forte</span>, +Jan. 13.</div> + +<p>It was my intention to have visited Ichaboa on +way to Ascension, but the wind falling light for +several successive days, and having appointed the +Commodore of the West Coast to meet me at Ascension +the middle of January, did not delay.</p> + +<p>Attention to the vast deposit of guano on Ichaboa +appears to have been drawn by Captain Andrew +Livingston in 1843; the first cargo was taken off by +the <span class='ships'>Ann</span> in that year. Although the island is little +more than a mile in circumference, from April 1843 +to February 1845 upwards of 200,000 tons of guano +had been removed. In the month of January 1845, +450 vessels were present, and as many as 6000 seamen +and labourers at work. The constant presence of a +man-of-war was necessary. The island appears to +have been clean swept of guano, and the birds, seals, +etc., driven away by February 1845. Since that, a few +enterprising individuals have, by keeping guard there, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[69]</span>prevented the birds from being disturbed, so that +they resort there annually, and guano to the value of +£30,000 is taken off and sent to the Mauritius +market. This increase has excited the cupidity of +other parties at Cape Town, who choose to consider +it as an unfair monopoly on the part of those who +have, at considerable expense, watched over, and, as +they term it, cultivated the guano. While one party +is prepared to defend their preserve, others are +preparing to help themselves, and use force. It was +to prevent bloodshed that I thought of going. The +island, however, belongs to no one.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 17.</div> + +<p>Daylight made the Island of Ascension. Came +to at 8.30 in 10 fathoms. Found <span class='ships'>Arrogant</span>, 47, +Commodore Edmonstone, and <span class='ships'>Mæander</span>, whose +figurehead I have. No exchange of salutes, on +account of its being the turtle season, which continues +from November until June.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 19.</div> + +<p>Inspected <span class='ships'>Arrogant</span>. Clean and smart. Good +at quarters, as well as at manning and arming boats. +Fairish crew, but spoilt in appearance by cloth caps, +now prevalent in the service.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 21.</div> + +<p><span class='ships'>Arrogant</span> sailed for Sierra Leone and Gambia to +quell disturbance by King Badiboo. Inspected the +“island of forbidding appearance,” without water +or wood, and formerly regarded as an impracticable +heap of ashes. Ascension is now in a state of improvement +as to its resources, natural and artificial. +Government buildings of stone, neat and substantial, +consisting of store-house, hospital, a good smith’s +shop, mess-room and barracks; but the chief interests +of the island are centred in turtle. The first part +of a tolerably good road has been made between hills +of cinders and along plains of ashes, dust, and +lava.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[70]</span></p> + +<p>Green Mountain is nearly in the centre of the +island, 2818 feet above the sea; rising, as the Directory +terms it, a “graceful oasis amidst waste and desolation”; +from it you look down on some forty hills of +cinders, each of which has in its turn contributed to +the supply of lava and ashes; but now, with the +assistance of planting and cultivation attracting rain, +it is rapidly progressing. There appear to be about +2000 acres in pasture, planted, or under cultivation. +Cattle, and occasionally horses are bred, but sheep +appear to thrive best. In addition to seven or eight +milch cows, the Government farm can boast of two +bulls, thirty oxen, and about eleven thousand sheep.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 22.</div> + +<p>Weighed.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 6.</div> + +<p>Came to in Sierra Leone. Found <span class='ships'>Arrogant</span>. +Saluted authorities and landed, receiving due honours.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 11.</div> + +<p>Arrived H.M.S. <span class='ships'>Falcon</span>, under command of Lieutenant +Bagge, Commander Arthur Fitzroy having +died of fever. At this sad event I am deeply grieved. +It was only in the Crimea that I attended the deathbed +of his elder brother: one of a family through +whose care and kindness I, as a midshipman, recovered +from this deadly African fever.</p> + +<p>I appointed my Flag Lieutenant, Algernon C. F. +Heneage, to poor Arthur Fitzroy’s vacancy in the +<span class='ships'>Falcon</span>. She was lying in the river, where there was +nothing above the surface to be seen moving but +sharks’ fins. The new Commander was well got up, +as was his wont, even to kid gloves. Just as his four-oared +gig was getting alongside, one of the boys +missed his footing and disappeared. In a moment +Heneage unbuckled his sword, dived and saved the +boy. He read his commission at the capstan in his +muddy suit—a good beginning!—and returned on +board <span class='ships'>Forte</span> to dine with his old Chief. For this +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[71]</span>gallant deed the Humane Society awarded Heneage +a medal.</p> + +<p>It was now my painful duty to write the following +official letter:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<div class='address'> +<p class='center'><span class="smcap">“Forte,” at Sierra Leone</span>,</p> +<p class='center'><i>February 11, 1861</i>.</p> +</div> + +<p class='cb no-indent'>To the Secretary of the Admiralty.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sir</span>—I have the honour to inform you, for the information +of My Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that I +have received my appointment to the South East Coast of +America; but, as I did not apply for that command, I beg +most respectfully to request their Lordships will be pleased +to inform me of their reason for removing me from the Cape +of Good Hope and West Coast of Africa to an inferior +command.—I have the honour to be, sir, your obedient +servant,</p> + +<div class='signature'> +<p class='right pr3'>(Signed) <span class="smcap">Henry Keppel</span>,</p> +<p class='right pr1'>Rear-Admiral.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div class="sidenote">Sierra +Leone.</div> + +<p>Appointed Lieutenant Wilkinson Acting Commander, +and Mr. Turner, Flag Lieutenant. The expedition +had started to punish the King of Badiboo, +who, when called on to pay a fine of bullocks for having +robbed British merchants, sent in reply to Governor +D’Arcy at Bathurst, he would fight him, and if he +was not assisted by the French, thrash him to boot! +Colonel Hill, Governor of Sierra Leone, having sent +all his troops, was anxious for the assistance of the +Navy.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 13.</div> + +<p>Embarked the Governor under salute and manned +yards. Weighed for the Gambia, <span class='ships'>Arrogant</span> and <span class='ships'>Falcon</span> +having preceded.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Gambia, +Feb. 16.</div> + +<p>Nearing the land, signalman reported masts of +a ship at anchor to the N.W. Steered towards +her. On getting within distance, she signalled, +“You are standing into danger.” This was the +<span class='ships'>Arrogant</span>, my old friend Edmonstone of the Naval +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[72]</span>College, the cleverest fellow there, who passed out +six months before his allotted two years: no better +fellow, but chance had made me his senior. My +reply was, “Weigh immediately and follow me.” +Steamed into the Gambia, <span class='ships'>Arrogant</span> in company. +Came to in 15 fathoms off Bathurst.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 17.</div> + +<p>1 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—<span class='ships'>Arrogant</span> proceeded up the river to join +the expedition which left Bathurst on Friday. 4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—<span class='ships'>Falcon</span> +arrived, but being out of coal came to. +At 4.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, <span class='ships'>Forte’s</span> services not being required, +steamed out of the river.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 22.</div> + +<p>Arrived at Sierra Leone. Having taken in 135 +tons of coal, steamed out.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 25.</div> + +<p>4 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Tornado came off, cool and refreshing. +Made sail after the strength had passed. Departed +this life, Mr. Keating, boatswain, a former shipmate +in <span class='ships'>Dido</span>. Poor fellow, he leaves a wife and three +young children.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Accra, +Mar. 3.</div> + +<p>3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Came to off Accra; landed in the evening.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 4.</div> + +<p>11 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Re-embarked under salute from the +fort. 9.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Weighed.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 5.</div> + +<p>1.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Came to in 7 fathoms off a village +called Jellacoffy, two miles to the eastward of Cape +St. Paul, a good place for stock and fruit. 4.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Weighed.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Fernando +Po, +Mar. 10.</div> + +<p>Came to in a cove to the westward of Cockburn +Cove, Fernando Po. Found <span class='ships'>Bloodhound</span>, 3, paddle +wheel, steam vessel, Lieutenant Commander Francis +W. Bennett. Saluted Spanish flag and returned +salute of Spanish brig.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 11.</div> + +<p>8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Arrived <span class='ships'>Alecto</span>, Commander Raby, +bringing our December mail.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 12.</div> + +<p>No Protestant clergyman being allowed to do +duty on shore, two marriages among the coloured +population were solemnized on board by Captain +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[73]</span>Turnour. There are upwards of 1000 coloured +people, Protestants, in and about the town, who are +not allowed to assemble together in each other’s +houses to pray, nor is a school allowed for the +education of their children. Such is Spanish law in +<span class="allsmcap">A.D.</span> 1861! Spanish Governor Don José de la +Gandara visited the ship: a superior and intelligent-looking +man.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 14.</div> + +<p>11.30 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Weighed; stood to southward down +west coast of the island.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">St. +Thomas, +Mar. 16.</div> + +<p>7.30 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Came to in 6 fathoms, Island of St. +Thomas, Fort St. Sebastian N.N.W. 3/4 mile. I +anchored here, just twenty-three years ago, in the +<span class='ships'>Childers</span> on my way to Ascension and England +(1838). Found everybody on shore anything but +civil; slavers calling are more profitable than Her +Majesty’s ships. Several canoes, apparently fishing, +started off to sea on our arrival and were not seen +to return. After we got under weigh at 8 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> +observed port-fires and other night signals in different +directions.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 19.</div> + +<p>1 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Chased and came up with a brig, the +<span class='ships'>Falmouth</span> of New York. This vessel had been +captured only a few months ago by one of the U.S. +cruisers <span class='ships'>Portsmouth</span>, and sent to New York to be +sold for the benefit of the captors.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">St. Paul +de Loanda, +Mar. 21.</div> + +<p>6 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Exchanged salutes with the <span class='ships'>Archer</span>, 8; +came to in 5 fathoms as near the coal depot as we +could. Found <span class='ships'>Wrangler</span>, also an old acquaintance +at Madeira, Flag-Officer Inman, in the U.S. <span class='ships'>Constellation</span>; +exchanged salutes and fraternized considerably. +Found the American iron coaling launches +most useful. Native labour idle and next to useless.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 23.</div> + +<p>Midnight, weighed.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 27.</div> + +<p>Came to in Little Fish Bay. Obtained fresh beef +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[74]</span>and live bullocks, yams, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, +and cabbages. English potatoes plentiful.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Cape of +Good +Hope, +April 21.</div> + +<p>Stood into False Bay; took moorings in Simon’s +Bay. Found here <span class='ships'>Brisk</span>, <span class='ships'>Gorgon</span>, and <span class='ships'>Persian</span>.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 22.</div> + +<p>Commenced coaling and otherwise preparing for +our relief.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 24.</div> + +<p>8 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—<span class='ships'>Narcissus</span> arrived with flag of Sir Baldwin +Walker to relieve me. Appointed to the Brazilian +command.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 25.</div> + +<p>Salutes exchanged.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 29.</div> + +<p>Gave up the Command in Chief of the Cape of +Good Hope and West African station to Sir Baldwin +Walker. At 8.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> steamed out of Simon’s Bay +to go to Table Bay for provisions, ships and transports +from China having cleared out the stores.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 3.</div> + +<p>10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Steamed out of Table Bay against a heavy +swell.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 16.</div> + +<p>6.40 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Came to at Ascension. Found here +<span class='ships'>Mæander</span>, <span class='ships'>Tortoise</span>, and <span class='ships'>Buffalo</span>.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Ascension, +May 17.</div> + +<p>Took in all the coal we could get by 8 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> +Sailed next morning.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[75]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXIX"> + CHAPTER LXXIX + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Return to England</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1861. +May 28.</div> + +<p>9 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Came to in Rio Harbour. Found <span class='ships'>Leopard</span>, +with flag of Rear-Admiral Sir Stephen Lushington, +K.C.B., waiting to be relieved. Also the old <span class='ships'>Madagascar</span>, +Captain White; <span class='ships'>Curlew</span>, Captain Shaw; <span class='ships'>Spy</span>, +Lieutenant Tabuteau; and <span class='ships'>Pylades</span>, Captain de Courcy, +on his way home from the Pacific. Found also notice +from their Lordships of their intention to supersede +me with Rear-Admiral Warren, whom I might expect +in the <span class='ships'>Emerald</span>, to which ship I was to transfer my flag +and return to England.</p> + +<p>This step was taken by their Lordships in reply to +a request I had made in a private letter to the First +Lord to be allowed to return to England in the <span class='ships'>Forte</span>, +that inquiry might be made into my conduct. Moreover, +in reply to an official application I had made +most respectfully, requesting their Lordships would +be good enough to state reasons for having removed +me from the Cape to an inferior command, I received +an answer that their Lordships “were not in the habit +of giving any reasons for the orders they may think +proper to give.”</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 16.</div> + +<p>Arrived <span class='ships'>Emerald</span>, with flag of Rear-Admiral +Warren; exchanged salutes. Transferred my flag +to the <span class='ships'>Emerald</span> commanded by my gallant friend +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[76]</span>Captain Arthur Cumming. Off this coast on Sept. 6, +1843, to the southward, he did as smart a thing as +any sailor could wish. He was a lieutenant in charge +of a twelve-oared cutter, searching for slavers. He +disguised himself, his crew and his boat, as fishermen, +painting the cutter after Brazilian fashion. A strange, +rakish-looking brig nearing, Cumming steered towards +her as if wishing to sell fish. Without a word he +was on board, shot the helmsman, put the slaver up +in the wind, to the consternation of her crew. His +own men joined him. It was indeed a brilliant feat!</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>By the mail received the following press cutting—from +what paper I know not, nor from whom I +received it; but so struck am I by its truth and +justice, it is herewith inserted:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p class='center fs120'><span class="smcap">The Keppel Scandal</span></p> + +<p class='mth'>The report to which we gave currency last week, relative +to the return of Sir Henry Keppel, has since been confirmed; +and we understand another flag officer has been nominated +successor to Sir Stephen Lushington on the Brazil Station. +On the return of the gallant Admiral, the scandal with which +his name has been associated will be fully investigated, and +the danger of acting upon an <i lang='la'>ex parte</i> statement will probably +receive another proof. Had Sir Henry Keppel tamely +submitted to the sentence of removal from the Cape Station +he would have been pleading guilty to a charge of a serious +nature, and we give him full credit, therefore, for having +declined to accept the South American command under such +circumstances. This treatment of a British flag officer +shows to what a miserable ebb the Navy has fallen. Had a +general officer been complained of by a Colonial Government +he would not have been summarily dismissed or transferred +to another command unheard or untried. But, alas! the +Navy has no <em>Head</em>, able or willing to maintain the independence +of its officers. Any paltry complaint against a naval +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[77]</span>officer, when urged by a civilian, or coming from the Horse +Guards or Home Office, assumes a degree of importance +which it takes a deal of correspondence and explanations to +lessen or set aside. The naval officer is often condemned on +the shallowest of pretexts, and has no Court of Appeal. +With respect to the alleged scene or scenes on board the +<span class='ships'>Forte</span>, we have heard so many different versions that we +decline to offer any decided opinion; but we contend on +behalf of the service for that measure of justice which is +never denied to the veriest criminal—a fair and full trial +before condemnation. It may turn out that Sir George +Grey acted with unbecoming and causeless impetuosity, and +that a British Admiral was moved from a valuable appointment +at the request of the Home Secretary, because an +irascible civilian Governor chose to pick a quarrel. We +demand on the part of the Navy fair play. We ask no +more, and we are satisfied that if it is not freely accorded +by the Board of Admiralty, there are champions of justice +enough in the House of Commons to take up the cudgels.</p> +</div> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 26.</div> + +<p>H.M. Minister, Mr. Christie, embarked on board +<span class='ships'>Emerald</span>. Sunset, resigned command of South +American station to Warren, and shifted flag to +<span class='ships'>Emerald</span>, embarking with suite at same time. Was +informed that during the night between fifty and +sixty of the <span class='ships'>Forte’s</span> crew deserted.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 27.</div> + +<p>10 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Weighed. Although at that late hour, +the crew of <span class='ships'>Forte</span> voluntarily waited up to greet their +old Admiral and Captain with a succession of parting +cheers. Blue lights were burned as we steamed +round and stood out of Rio Harbour. Thirty-seven +years since I first entered it!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 2.</div> + +<p>7 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Came to off St. Salvador in the famous +Bahia Bay. Found <span class='ships'>Curlew</span>. Exchanged salutes with +Brazilian flag. Noon, Royal salute in commemoration +of Brazilian independence.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 3.</div> + +<p>Ship visited by President to see our Minister and +Armstrong guns.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[78]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 4.</div> + +<p>Weighed and steamed out of Bahia.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 11.</div> + +<p>Crossed the Equator for the last time!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 4.</div> + +<p>Made the Eddystone Lighthouse.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 5.</div> + +<p>After passing Cowes, furled sails, squared yards, +rounded to, manned yards, and saluted Royal standard. +Made sail, came to at Spithead.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 6.</div> + +<p>Struck flag. Visited friend, George Gray, now +Rear-Admiral Superintendent of the Dockyard. After +luncheon, accompanied him towards the King’s Stairs, +where he expected the Prince Consort to embark for +Osborne, H.R.H. having been to inspect works in +progress at Portsdown.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Portsmouth, +Aug. 6.</div> + +<p>On the Prince’s appearing in sight, I retired; +however, His Royal Highness having spotted me, +came direct and gave me a kind and cordial “welcome +back.” I was much pleased and gratified at +this—but still sore at the silence preserved at the +Admiralty as to the cause of my removal from the +Cape Station. Governor Sir George Grey had sent a +message that “if I did not (on our second leaving Rio +for the Cape) write home what had occurred, he +would not.”</p> + +<p>Having since found out how little regard he had +for speaking the truth, I believed that he had access +by writing to some person near the Court, which would +account for the mystery at the Admiralty. The +kindness of the Prince Consort somewhat dispelled +this idea. I proceeded to London. My brother-in-law, +clever and truest friend, was no more! +I tried to forget my Service troubles, and the notice +I more than once received that I need not expect +further employment. Sir Frederick Grey, First Sea +Lord, was then the only person who, if not deceived, +knew what had occurred on board the <span class='ships'>Forte</span>.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Aug. to +Sept.</div> + +<p>On 5th December 1860, the First Lord wrote me a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[79]</span>private letter, which I only received after my arrival +in England stating, “Upon consideration, he thought +it expedient to transfer me to another station.” A +more just and honourable man than the Duke of +Somerset there could not be. By whom had His +Grace been misled? There are now living proofs +in London of what did occur! Sir George Grey and +myself are both old men, living within an hour’s +walk. We must shortly be called to our full account.</p> + +<p><i lang='la'>P.S.</i>—Poor fellow! since writing the above I +find that Sir George Grey (born <em>Gray</em>) rests under +the same roof as Nelson and Wellington!</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[80]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXX"> + CHAPTER LXXX + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Shore Time</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1861. +Oct.</div> + +<p>Although surrounded by friends, England to me +was no longer the same happy place. I felt aggrieved +and annoyed. Jane West kindly undertook to share +my troubles.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 31.</div> + +<p>The marriage ceremony was performed by her +brother Richard, assisted by the Rev. Hon. Robert +Liddell, Vicar of St. Paul’s, Knightsbridge.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Nov.</div> + +<p>We went abroad, travelled through France and +Italy: remained some time in Florence, met many +kind friends, visited the churches and shops without +the means of purchasing. On convenient occasions +my good wife invited me to join in prayer. Anxious to +display my French, usually answered, “Toujours près.”</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Paris, +Dec. 14.</div> + +<p>The good Prince Consort departed this life. +Her poor Majesty! Universal grief!</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1862. +Jan. 10.</div> + +<p>Returned to England. We retook possession of +our cottage at Bishopstoke, although I had a kind +and good tenant in Sir John Bayley, owner of the +<span class='ships'>Nymph</span>, a 61-ton cutter yacht lying at Southampton; +he kindly vacated the cottage. While arrangements +were being made, we took lodgings in Sloane Street, +my wife’s parents living in Cadogan Place.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 3.</div> + +<p>Son Colin was born, an event which took off +the rough edge of discontent. The gallant Clyde +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[81]</span>stood godfather. Am not going to bore my readers +with particulars of my shore life. I may state that I +still had kind friends, and enjoyed the best of shooting; +also, being a light weight, had frequent mounts +with hounds.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1863. +Jan. 1.</div> + +<p>Heard of Princess Alice’s accident at Broadlands, +Isle of Wight. Her phaeton was overturned, but +H.R.H. fortunately not much hurt. The Hon. +Mrs. Bruce was in attendance.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 5.</div> + +<p>The Prince of Wales took his seat for the first +time in the House of Lords. Navy much exercised +about the building of ironclads.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 25.</div> + +<p>Attended Prince of Wales’s levée with Eyre. Over +a thousand presentations, besides seventeen hundred +who attended. Amongst other old shipmates, met +Prince Victor of Hohenlohe.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 7.</div> + +<p>This was indeed a happy and exciting day for +London. The arrival and procession through the +city and streets by the most lovely Princess that ever +visited this country. The excitement and fatigue +must have been great, but Her Royal Highness +allowed no one to see it.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 10.</div> + +<p>Marriage of the Prince and Princess of Wales at +Windsor.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>As before mentioned, I was fond of a race, as +was my brother-in-law, Sir Joseph Hawley; he had +engaged Porter as his trainer. I amused myself at +Kingsclere and learned something. Settled down +at the cottage, Bishopstoke.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 20.</div> + +<p>My brother Tom died at Brighton. He had +been for some time in delicate health. In 1856 I +took him to the Cape for the sea voyage. He was +buried at Quidenham.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[82]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 18.</div> + +<p>At Epsom races. Derby won by Mr. R. C. +Naylor’s “Macaroni.” Stakes valued at £7200.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 22.</div> + +<p>Oaks won by Lord Valentine’s “Queen Bertha.”</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 4.</div> + +<p>Cup Day, Ascot. A brilliant meeting. First +appearance of Prince and Princess of Wales. Cup +won by Mr. Merry’s “Buckstone.”</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 14.</div> + +<p>My much-esteemed friend Lord Clyde died, aged +seventy-one.... Attended his funeral on 21st.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 5.</div> + +<p>The King of the Greeks, brother to the Princess +of Wales, arrived in England.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<div class="sidenote">Dec.</div> + +<p>The River Itchen running between my kitchen +and flower-garden, was full of trout, and there was +a small summer-house through which I could conduct +a running stream from the river. I wrote to +Mr. Buckland to help me in breeding trout. In the +upper part of the summer-house I had a tank, which +could be renovated and a small stream of water +introduced into a succession of troughs of spawn,—these +overflowed into each other. It was great fun +watching the tiny things come to life and gradually +increase in size, until it was time to put them into +the river. Chamberlayne and others, through whose +property the Itchen ran, took a great interest in the +experiment. From my little preserve on the Itchen, +Frank Buckland stocked the rivers in Tasmania with +trout, which has proved very successful.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 23.</div> + +<p>Heard with deep regret of the death of Thackeray. +He had, some years before, proposed me as a member +of the Cosmopolitan Club, a pleasant gathering of +Bohemians, who met as a rule about midnight in +Watt’s Studio, Charles Street, Berkeley Square. Up +to the end of its days my name was up on the walls +of the Club as “absent on special business.”...</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1864. +Jan. 8.</div> + +<p>Poor Denmark was not getting on in her war +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[83]</span>with Prussia; offered my services. But the rank of +Vice-Admiral interfered.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 19.</div> + +<p>Prince of Wales at University Boat Race, attended +by General Knollys and Colonel Keppel.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Apr. 3.</div> + +<p>Garibaldi arrived at Southampton. Landed in his +full uniform: red shirt, felt hat, and walking-stick. +He was taken by Mr. Seely of iron pigs notoriety +over Portsmouth Dockyard. Garibaldi, after three +weeks’ visit, left in the Duke of Sutherland’s yacht +<span class='ships'>Undine</span> for Caprera.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 20.</div> + +<p>Capture of <span class='ships'>Alabama</span> by Federal cruiser <span class='ships'>Kearsage</span>.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>Three millions afterwards paid by England! So +much for arbitration!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 6.</div> + +<p>Bishopstoke being near Southampton, was a good +deal on board Tom Chamberlayne’s (of Cranberry) +yacht the <span class='ships'>Arrow</span>, R.Y.S.; at that period had not +been beaten. Fred Delmé Radcliffe had a nice yacht, +the <span class='ships'>Freak</span>, but nothing could pass <span class='ships'>Arrow</span>. Being +an honorary member of the Royal Yacht Squadron, +consoled myself as best I could. Astonishing how +sailing improves the appetite. Off Hurst Castle +was our host’s favourite anchorage.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Guernsey, +July 7.</div> + +<p>Charles Radcliffe joined. Guernsey, too, was a +favourite anchorage. Market well supplied with +fruit and vegetables, but you should not spoil your +appetite by looking at the disgusting conger-eel.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 8.</div> + +<p>Breakfasted off mackerel caught just before. After +breakfast joined by Delmé Radcliffe and son Herbert. +We started in hopes of engaging one Lanourie, a +celebrated salt-water fisherman, but found he was +already engaged by Mr. Petre of the <span class='ships'>Osprey</span>. +Arrived <span class='ships'>Eugenie</span>, R.Y.S.; joined by Fred Delmé +Radcliffe; had a good dinner with Frankland and +Colonel Denny.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[84]</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote"><span class='ships'>Arrow</span> +yacht, +July 9.</div> + +<p>On the highest part in the centre of the town is +a granite tower erected in memory of Her Majesty’s +visit. After a climb up a spiral staircase, we obtained +a view of the island. The tide being out, the +numerous rocks appeared as if they had risen like +pinnacles from the deep; makes one feel thankful +one is not the owner of a yacht. During the night +we were joined by the <span class='ships'>Firefly</span>, Sir H. Oglander. +A strong north-easter made us prisoners. Chamberlayne +has a party at Cranberry, and I am due at +home! News of Friday’s debate in the House on +vote of censure. The position of Federal troops in +Virginia critical.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 10.</div> + +<p>By steamer to Cowes; dined with Sir Thomas +Whichcote on board his <span class='ships'>Enchantress</span>.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 11.</div> + +<p>Landed early at Southampton, on to Bishopstoke, +saw wife and kid (Colin), returned to <span class='ships'>Enchantress</span>, +and off with first of south-wester to the eastward. +Monty Thorold on board. Frankland in <span class='ships'>Eugenie</span> +had got start, but we caught her up this side of +Beachy Head. Took Dutch pilot.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 10.</div> + +<p>Readers rejoice. Some friend has borrowed a month +of my journal and left me neither on shore nor afloat.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 12.</div> + +<p>Sunset not far from the Sluis Gate entrance. +Detained a couple of hours for want of water. +Worked over the bar and came to in Goree Channel +shortly after midnight.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 13.</div> + +<p><span class='ships'>Eugenie</span> brought up outside the bar. Having +worked up to Helvets Maas, changed pilot and +hauled into entrance of Vourme Canal. Here had +to wait our turn. <span class='ships'>Eugenie</span> rejoined; got through first +tack. Taken in tow by horses, to me a novel mode +of travelling. Canal about six miles in length. +Secured inside the lock.</p> + +<p>On passing through, saw sundry partridges, hares, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[85]</span>wild duck, and plover; cattle, carts and carriages, +latter primitive in appearance. At noon anchored +off Rotterdam. Landed in afternoon; ascended the +Church Tower, magnificent and extensive view. +Inside the church are two good sculptures of Admirals +de Witt and Coremiar. Town clean. Corry and +Conellan dined with us.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 15.</div> + +<div class="sidenote">The +Hague.</div> + +<p>Started by train for the Hague. Visited Museum +and Picture Gallery. Lunched at a Café by the way, +particularly clean. We then drove to the King’s +Country Palace, distant some miles; road shaded by +some of the tallest oaks and elms I ever saw. At +the Palace we were civilly received by the servants. +Although the Queen was residing in it, we were shown +over the charming country residence. On our preparing +to leave, a footman suggested writing our +names in a book lying open on a side-table. I had +no other costume than a pea-jacket and sailor’s hat.</p> + +<p>We had just turned into the road from the outer +gate, when a messenger came running with Her Majesty’s +commands for my return, when I was sent for, and +received by Her Majesty Queen Sophie Frederique +Mathilde at the door of the ante-room, and desired +to follow her into a charming boudoir. After a few +kind words, I was desired to sit down. Her Majesty +hoped that I had not forgotten my Dutch extraction, +and other kind expressions. I mentioned that I had +had the honour of being a Groom-in-Waiting to +Her Majesty Queen Victoria. I was allowed to kiss +the royal hand on departing: my friends having +kindly waited in the carriage, enjoying the fragrant +weed.</p> + +<p>On our way back we visited the bazaars. A more +curious collection of pretty things I had never seen. +Returned by train, and so on board the pretty and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[86]</span>beautifully clean <span class='ships'>Enchantress</span>, having seen a good +deal, and I, in particular, well pleased by the reception +I had received. The <span class='ships'>Eugenies</span> came to dine.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 16.</div> + +<p>In the evening my new friend Mr. Itmann came +on board and agreed to accompany us to Amsterdam.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Amsterdam, +Aug. 17.</div> + +<p>By 9.15 train. Two flys took us from the station +at Amsterdam to the Palace. We first mounted the +belfry and had a fine view of Zuyder Zee and surrounding +country. We came in for a tune on the +bells, as well as the striking the hour of noon on +the more ponderous one. The Palace is as dismal +and as uninteresting a building as one could well go +through. Old Spanish flags and other trophies taken +from their greatest enemy are suspended in the +Throne Room. There is a large picture by Wappers +of the gallant young officer, Van Speyk, who blew his +ship up, with himself and crew, after getting on shore, +when boarded by the Belgians in 1831.</p> + +<p>We went to the picture-gallery; an ill-arranged +building, but containing some good pictures. Amsterdam, +with its trade and canal streets, is very like +Rotterdam. At 5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> we returned by a train <i lang='la'>viâ</i> +Utrecht; but there is so much sameness about this +great grazing, cattle-supporting country, that unless +I had been told I should have thought we were +returning by the same line. In Amsterdam we had +luncheon at a restaurant, but the cooking not much, +although things were clean. Got on board <span class='ships'>Enchantress</span> +a little after seven.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Rotterdam, +Aug. 18.</div> + +<p>After luncheon went on shore with Itmann and +examined a small galliot pleasure-boat, of about +eighteen or twenty feet in length, and to which I had +taken a fancy. For her length, as comfortable as a +vessel could be, the middle part decked over. Mast +and sails fitted, and for stability as safe as a church. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[87]</span>Should like to have her in the Itchen, off Bishopstoke. +Weather bad.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 20.</div> + +<p>Weighed at 11 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> Wind just sufficient to allow +us, with ebb tide, to fetch down, which we did cleverly +in one hour. Same distance when going up taking +us four hours, in tow of a dirty steamer. Arrived at +Nieuwe Sluys entrance to the Vourme Canal at noon. +Process of getting through the lock gates slow. We +heard of a large ship coming through yesterday, requiring +forty-two horses to tow her up. By 2 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> +we were through the gates, and, with the assistance +of the foresail, wind abeam, kept the three horses at +the tow rope in a jog-trot. <span class='ships'>Eugenie</span> having had half +an hour’s start, made sail and slipped away without +the encumbrance of horses, and was, partly owing to +the haze, out of sight ahead. The canal is crossed +by sundry bridges which draw up, and the passing +between the posts requires a nicety in steering. In +meeting vessels it is customary, or rather it is the +printed law, to keep to the right or starboard side. +At about 3.40 a deeply-laden English collier was +observed most pertinaciously keeping the mid-channel, +as if she did not intend to give way an inch to, what +she most likely considered us, the weaker vessel; in +vain we hauled in so close to the shore that one might +have reached it with a moderate length of foot: however, +we had all but squeezed through, when the +<span class='ships'>Leveret</span>, of Whitby, at last, and when too late, put +her helm a-port, thereby throwing her quarter very +rudely against <span class='ships'>Enchantress’s</span> bow, by which she lost +a whisker and had her cathead and upper works considerably +damaged; to say nothing of the foresail, +which was rent in twain.</p> + +<p>The nimble <span class='ships'>Leveret</span> did not escape without a +scratch, inasmuch as <span class='ships'>Enchantress’s</span> anchor having +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[88]</span>hooked the <span class='ships'>Leveret’s</span> main rigging, tore away three +of the shrouds, and having cleared her upper works +fore and aft, the anchor finding nothing left to hold +on by, tumbled into the water and was soon weighed, +catted, and fished. While we proceeded on our way, +the collier was observed to rush frantically into the +rushes on the wrong bank of the river.</p> + +<p>At 4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> we brought up at Helviotsluys end of +the canal. All appearances of a gale of wind, although +in the right direction, we are better inside the +canal.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Helviotsluys, +Aug. 21.</div> + +<p>Gale continuing, but glass rising. If wind veers +to eastward the sea must go down a bit. Visit from +the <span class='ships'>Eugenies</span> or Irish Brigade, who likewise had been +in some danger by a huge steamer. Whichcote, not +intending the lubberly <span class='ships'>Leveret</span> to escape the punishment +due, sent Haywood, his master, back to Rotterdam +by steamer to lay the case before Her Majesty’s +Consul and proper authorities; this, however, may +detain us another day, as the master cannot be back +before to-morrow. Landed and visited the town, +which is entered by a drawbridge, and surrounded by +a ditch. Fortifications in tolerable repair, but no +guns mounted: they were lying in rows inside one +of the bastions. In the centre of the town was an +old 50-gun frigate, for the training of youths for +their navy. In the evening the <span class='ships'>Eugenies</span> came on +board and we had a rubber.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 22.</div> + +<p><span class='ships'>Eugenie</span> got through the gates at an early hour, +but brought up outside. Gale over, glass rising, but +no easterly wind. A young Dutchman, probably an +attorney’s clerk, came on board, the bearer of a letter +from the master of the <span class='ships'>Leveret</span>, the purport of which +was that he should send Whichcote a bill of damages +as soon as his defects were made good. Tom Whichcote, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[89]</span>having read the document, tore it up and threw +it overboard, and told the messenger he might tell +Mr. Clark (the master of the <span class='ships'>Leveret</span>) to go to a +hot place. The scribe having remarked that Sir +Thomas had a peculiar way of conducting business, +retired in haste. In the afternoon a pilot came on +board and conducted us through the gates—an operation +we could have done as well. Came to outside +preparatory to a start in the morning.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 23.</div> + +<p>Got pilot on board. Weather hazy. Wind +hanging to W.S.W. Message from the Irish Brigade +proposing to keep the inner water and so go down to +Flushing; not a bad idea, to which we agreed. +Landed sea pilot and tried for a river one; only one +in store, so settled to wait. At 9 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> observed +<span class='ships'>Eugenie</span> working down for the sea. However, +Tom Whichcote was not to be influenced into again +changing his mind; having got on board a river +pilot, we weighed and ran to S.E., keeping between +certain black and white buoys.</p> + +<p>After rounding the S.E. end of Goree and Overflacker, +the tide having fallen, and the channel narrow +and wind in our faces, we came to. Observed sundry +seals basking in the sun on the patches of drying +sand left by the falling tide. <span class='ships'>Eugenie</span> and ourselves +no longer in company, and as their manœuvring scented +somewhat of the humbug it was not to be regretted. +Having been to-day at noon in 4° 5´ E. Long.—wonder +whether I shall ever be so far <em>East</em> again.</p> + +<p>These Dutch pilots, although well acquainted +with shoals and dangers, do not understand the +handling of a fast fore and aft rigged schooner. +They have no idea of the time they are in stays, nor of +the length of time they hold their way; consequently, +instead of merely pointing out to the captain of the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[90]</span>vessel the dangers or shoals he had to avoid, took to +working her himself and twice fixed her on the mud +bank. The second time she was only got off by a rising +tide. Much time was lost, and we brought up for the +night earlier than we otherwise should.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 24.</div> + +<p>Weighed at an early hour, with a southerly wind. +Haywood, the master, appeared to have had enough +of narrow channels and mud banks, so took the +Keeten Mast Channel, leading to the southward, and +we stood on to Brouwershaven, where we came to at +9 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> to wait tide, change pilot for a deep-sea one, +and obtain provisions. This being the main channel +for large ships to Helviotsluys and Rotterdam, we +found several French, American, and Dutch.</p> + +<p>Water being low as we came down, the banks were +covered with various birds. Two of the crew landed +in the night and had got within twenty yards of a flock +of wild ducks, but, unsportmanlike, they had neglected +to examine their guns, which obstinately refused to +go off, so the ducks did! At 11.30 boat returned +with a regular old salt as sea pilot; not much to be +done in the way of grub, and the only newspaper, +dated Friday last, was in the possession of one of the +American skippers, with most likely news from the +States.</p> + +<p>Weighed, wind W.S.W., fresh ebb tide; worked +out cleverly; twelve miles before we were clear of the +outer shoals; discharged pilot and took our departure +from the Fairway buoy. I took the helm. A +refreshing breeze, but rising sea. Name it not, but +at four, dinner-time, my old inside revolted. I felt so +sea-sick that I preferred turning in, to facing dinner. +Made a second attempt at supper-time with same +result. By 11.30 made Lowestoft Light.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 25.</div> + +<p>At noon we were off the North Foreland. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[91]</span>Dirty weather; we wisely came to in Margate Roads. +Glass falling; westerly gale.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 26.</div> + +<p>Gale continuing. Got <cite>Daily Telegraph</cite> from a +stranger, but neither he nor three others could tell +what horse had won the Ebor Handicap last week at +York!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 16.</div> + +<p>Sad death of friend Speke. Accidentally shot +getting over a stone wall near Box, Bath.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Oct.</div> + +<p>It was about this time that my kind friends at +Singapore realised the position in which I was placed. +Now that the subject of the transfer of the Straits +Settlements from the India to the Colonial Office was +under the consideration of the Government, I think +my friends were almost unanimous in wishing that I +should be appointed Governor of the Straits Settlements.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[92]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXXI"> + CHAPTER LXXXI + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Country House Visits</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1865. +Jan. 2.</div> + +<p>Re-established myself at Bishopstoke. Prepared +for hunting and jobbed horses.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 3.</div> + +<p>With the Hambledon meet, West End; found in +Allington Wood. Sharp but short run, the greater +part to myself.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 4.</div> + +<p>Rode “Balloon” with the Hursley meet, Farlay +Down; found two foxes. A long day, and no run. +Willie Standish driving me home from Hursley.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Thursday, +Jan. 5.</div> + +<p>Letter from Knollys with kind invitation to Sandringham +for Saturday next till Thursday following. +By steamer to Hythe; shot with Charlie Scott, and +put up at Beaulieu. Everything in the rough, but +so comfortable. Shooting not much. Simpson, Clinton, +and Morrit. Posted to station, and by rail to +London. Put up at Bristol Hotel, Cockspur Street.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Sandringham, +Saturday, +Jan. 7.</div> + +<p>By 10.57 train from Shoreditch. Arrived at +Dersingham 3.20; carriage to meet us. Prince most +kind. Dinner, whist, loo, etc.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Sunday, +Jan. 8.</div> + +<p>Party here—Woodward, the librarian from Windsor; +Frederick Leighton, artist; George Grey and +Lady Morton in waiting; Miss Knollys, etc.; Lord +Hamilton. To morning church. The Prince gave +me a gold pin. The young Prince’s birthday: one +year old, fine little fellow. Walked to see Brereton.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[93]</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">Sandringham, +Jan. 9.</div> + +<p>George Grey and I to meet Villebois hounds—H. +Seymour, Mrs. Dugdale Astley, Hammonds, etc. +No scent, back early. Prince and self planted first +apple and pear trees in new kitchen garden. +Duchess of Cambridge arrived, attended by Lady +Somerset and Purvis, also Lord Harris and Helps.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 10.</div> + +<p>We went, some nine guns, partridge-shooting, +with over thirty beaters to drive. The wind high, +and birds fast for me. Great function was the hot +luncheon in a barn. Sat next the Princess at dinner: +the most charming of all Princesses.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 11.</div> + +<p>Hounds met near. A large party from Sandringham, +Lord Harris, P. Feilding, and self being +mounted as well as the staff, Princess driving +Duchess of Cambridge. Mrs. Dugdale Astley, +Mrs. Villebois, and others out. Fox killed; bad +scent.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Dewlish, +Jan. 12.</div> + +<p>Lord Harris and self took leave of their kind +Royal Highnesses. At Lynn station joined by Lord +George Bentinck. In London by 3.50. Had time +for chop at club. By train to Dorchester. Midnight +before I got to Dewlish, Field-Marshal Sir J. Michel, +G.C.B.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 13.</div> + +<p>Owing to Lord Ilchester’s death our visit to +Minterne postponed. Horses had, however, arrived +there. Large party in house, Radcliffe’s hounds +meeting near. Rode “Canteen.” Dry, cold, snow +on ground; bad scent. Lost first fox; short run +with second.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Dewlish, +Jan. 15.</div> + +<p>To morning service. In the clergyman found an +old friend at the Cape in 1828. He then in army, +son of old Blair who kept the hounds.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 16.</div> + +<p>To a near meet with Radcliffe’s hounds. Michel, +his daughter Rachel, very pretty, and Miss Kelyar, +also pretty, with us. Two scrambling races; one +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[94]</span> +fox killed, another to a drain. Much taken out of +“Balloon.”</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 17.</div> + +<p>With Lady Michel to Dorchester. Train to +Poole. Bus to Bournemouth to look after quarters +on Colin’s account. Fanny Albemarle and P. Cust +kind and obliging. Took lodgings and returned +to dine.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 18.</div> + +<p>Was to have hunted with Digby, Vale of White +Horse. Fancied frost too sharp.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 19.</div> + +<p>Although a sharp frost, went out with Michel +to meet Radcliffe’s hounds. Heard that the Vale +had had a good run yesterday! Have greatly +enjoyed visit to Dewlish, so kind and good to +everybody.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 20.</div> + +<p>As there was no Minterne visit, horses had to +return to Bishopstoke. Rode one of them to Dorchester +station, wife and Colin following, where I +had taken lodgings.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 21.</div> + +<p>Found niece Augusta North here with her +children. Dined with P. Cust and Fanny Albemarle, +meeting Tom Pasley, Lord Winchilsea with pretty +wife, late F. Rice, Cust’s son-in-law and daughter, +the Kennedys, a Mr. Hay and wife: agreeable +party.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 22.</div> + +<p>Bitter cold; church reported High Pusey. Let +wife go alone.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 23.</div> + +<p>By rail to Bishopstoke; cottage snug and comfortable, +but dull without the wife and kid.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Jan. 25.</div> + +<p>Snow, and barometer falling. Dined with the +Dean. Felt my way home with a bull’s-eye lantern—pelting +rain!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 28.</div> + +<p>Preferred walking to station to having horse +roughed. Train to Christchurch. Bus to Bournemouth.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 30.</div> + +<p>By bus to Christchurch and train to Bishopstoke. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[95]</span>George Deane called with invite for me to shoot +with Chamberlayne.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 2.</div> + +<p>Wife and Colin came by 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, looking all +the better, and most welcome, as I had enough of +being alone.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Bishopstoke, +Feb. 3.</div> + +<p>This morning’s post brought further information +with regard to the Straits Settlements.</p> + +<p>At 2.40 telegram from Prince of Wales, stating +that they would be passing at 3, and proposing we +should bring our boy to the station to meet their +Royal Highnesses. Obeyed command and enjoyed +a too short interview.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 4.</div> + +<p>Meet of Hambledon at Marwell; wife and Colin +there. Killed one fox, and a fast but short run after +another. Henry West arrived by train to dinner. +Atkins sent us some excellent snipe.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 5.</div> + +<p>H. West and I to morning church. Sister +Caroline staying at Rectory: there since Thursday. +Visit from Standish, bringing Harry Stephenson from +the <span class='ships'>Bombay</span>.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 6.</div> + +<p>Willie Standish having given Henry a mount, +meet at Crab Wood; we drove to Hursley—best +run of the season. Lamed “Balloon” by falling +into a road—a drift of snow tripping him on landing,—a +badly-cut knee. Walked to Winchester; horse +from Tubbs; led “Balloon” home.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 8.</div> + +<p>Meet at Hambledon at George Deane’s. Carried +Colin up to see meet. Rode “Canteen,” sending +Dawson on Tubbs’ mare to Cams. Dennison from +Portsmouth came in for cherry brandy.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 9.</div> + +<p>Vet. Retford to see horses; mare still stiff and +lame; “Balloon,” ugly wound, but doing well.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Feb. 10.</div> + +<p>Repeated visit to Bishopstoke; all well at home, +but felt that I had no business to absent myself on +my selfish amusement of hunting.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[96]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 11.</div> + +<p>By train to Gosport. On board <span class='ships'>Victory</span>. Court-martial +on loss of <span class='ships'>Bombay</span>. No end of friends. +Visited young Garnier at Mrs. Knight’s school. +Lunched with Fred and Mrs. Hutton. At Cams; +found Elliot Yorkes.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 13.</div> + +<p>Frost and no hunting.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 14.</div> + +<p>H. Delmé with Pat Blake and Elliot Yorke to +see Fred Radcliffe and his “Fair Rosamond” at +Gosport.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 25.</div> + +<p>Sold “Canteen” to W. C. Alexander for £150. +Sent to Tubbs for a mount. Meet at Warmford. +Breakfast with Eccles, having picked up Chapman +and George Deane. Tubbs’ brute, a gray, fell with +me into a lane; difficulty in getting home; a talk +when there; got letters from Alexander returning +“Canteen” for a whistler; don’t believe it, having +only lately bought him of F. Delmé Radcliffe, for +more than I could well afford.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 27.</div> + +<p>Glad to have secured house in London. Letter +from Alexander, who is a gentleman, taking my word +in preference to the Vet.’s; sent me a cheque for £150, +which I returned. Captain Grimston offered me £30 +for “Balloon,” which I declined.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 28.</div> + +<p>“Canteen” returned this morning. Standish +called, kindly offering to take care of “Balloon” +until sold, which I accepted. He also took Dick +King and the mare.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 4.</div> + +<p>Found wife and Colin at Leinster Gardens. +Lunched 15 Cadogan Place. Called on Miss Burdett-Coutts +and Rajah Brooke, also on Albemarle, his +wife and Charteris.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 7.</div> + +<p>Navy Club dinner; Mundy in chair. Rajah +Brooke guest; about thirty present. Walked with +Rajah to call on Miss Burdett-Coutts.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 8.</div> + +<p>Moved into No. 40 Connaught Square.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[97]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 11.</div> + +<p>Declined a mount kindly offered by Henry West +with the old Berkeley: great temptation though! +Dined with Henry Eyre in Berkeley Square, meeting +Le Marchant, Dacres, and others.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">London, +Mar. 13.</div> + +<p>At club found letter—W. Standish’s cheque for +£35 for “Balloon.” Good beast in good hands. +Made calls on Lord Palmerston and Admiral Rous. +Declined Lord Campbell’s kind offer of house room.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 14.</div> + +<p>Ballot at club among about thirty candidates. +Bowyear elected. Dined with Thorolds; meeting +pleasant; party as usual.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 15.</div> + +<p>Governorship of Singapore engrossing my thoughts. +Went to Houses of Parliament: introduced to W. H. +Read’s friend Clerke Seymour.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 16.</div> + +<p>Saw Duke of Somerset’s secretary; intimated to +him to communicate that when applied to by Cardwell +His Grace should not throw cold water on my +appointment. Hope I may get it.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 17.</div> + +<p>Saw Blackwood at Colonial Office; talk about +Straits Settlements; don’t think I shall get it.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 18.</div> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 20.</div> + +<p>Major Lord D’Arcy Osborn rather a fancy for +“Canteen,” although not for his price, £75. Made +sundry calls. Sir George Seymour ill in bed. +Letter from Lord D’Arcy Osborn, offering £75 +for “Canteen,” and to call at my club on the +morrow.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 21.</div> + +<p>Lord D’Arcy and brother came to club and +agreed to take my horse. Dinner at Navy Club, +Shrewsbury in the chair. Afterwards to Pratt’s.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 22.</div> + +<p>Attended levée.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 23.</div> + +<p>Called on and had a chat with Rokeby. Dined +with sister Mary, going afterwards to wandering +minstrels at Lord Gerald Fitzgerald’s.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>Kept journal irregularly at this time.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[98]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 4.</div> + +<p>My sweet May born this day.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 27.</div> + +<p>Death of Mrs. Selwyn prevented Tom Whichcote +coming to us for the Bibury and Stockbridge Races. +Edward Russell and George Fitzroy came, but no +races for poor E. R. The wife not strong, but she +appeared at dinner.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 28.</div> + +<p>George Fitzroy and I to Romsey: shunted there +for an hour, but in time for the first race. Bibury +Day, and broiling hot.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 29.</div> + +<p>Got on with less delay at Romsey. The usual +Stockbridge race weather. Heavy rain. Picked up +Henry Fitzroy and brought him back to dinner.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 30.</div> + +<p>Friend Edward Russell took his departure—good +fellow. George Fitzroy and I to races; did no good. +Henry went home from the course.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 6.</div> + +<p>Started for 3.15 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> train, but no possibility of +getting to Woolmer before 9 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> Left portmanteau +at Liss; walked from Liphook; changed into +Archie’s clothes.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Woolmer, +July 7.</div> + +<p>Lovely place this Woolmer!—Powerscourt, H. +Stephenson, Salvin, a great naturalist, with cormorants +to catch fish, Colonel Hagarth and wife. Had an +amusing afternoon’s sport with the birds: no end of +trout.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 8.</div> + +<p>More bother to get across Hants than to go to +Bath. At 8.40 started in dogcart to Liphook, by +rail <i lang='la'>viâ</i> Havant; got home in four hours.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 11.</div> + +<p>Archie Macdonald, Sheriff for the County, came +with Keppel Stephenson and his chaplain, Rev. +Randolph Keppel Stephenson, had a bed at the +Dean’s.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 12.</div> + +<p>Lent wife’s carriage to Dean to vote for Bonham +Carter. We all dined with the Dean in great force +at result of election.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[99]</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">Norfolk, +July 17.</div> + +<p>At Swaffham met Lord Hastings, who took me +on to Melton Constable. Canvassed with Mrs. Dugdale +Astley.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 18.</div> + +<p>On Hastings drag, four grays, to poll at Keepham.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 19.</div> + +<p>With Gurdon and Sons to nomination at Swaffham. +Got Bury to propose Gurdon. After lunch +to Quidenham with Bury.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 22.</div> + +<p>Voted for Gurdon and Jones at Thetford. By +express to London. By 1.10 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> train to Winchester. +Voted for Mildmay. Something to vote in Thetford +and Winchester same day.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 11.</div> + +<p>Train from Bishopstoke through London. Joined +Col. C. Baillie in fly to Wentworth Woodhouse, +meeting George and Mrs. Fitzwilliam, Sir James +and Lady Mary Wilde, Count Havonet, Fawkes, +Teesdale, Colonels Charles and William Baillie.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Bishopstoke, +Sept. 29.</div> + +<p>Received intimation from Clerk of the Peace of +the Lord-Lieutenant, Winchester, having signed my +commission as a magistrate of the county!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 5.</div> + +<p>Had a meeting of ratepayers in vestry to consider +the inefficient state of drainage. Atkins and Co. too +strong for us: nothing decided on. No hope, unless +cholera lays hold of one of them.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 10.</div> + +<p>Having taken a six months’ season ticket, went +up. Returned by 5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> train. Cæsarewitch won by +Salpinetes: a fiver on him at 6 to 1.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 14.</div> + +<p>In dogcart to Southampton to buy Colin a pair +of gloves. Met George Day. On by King for +something more of Salpinetes, Day, late one of my +Mids, winning over £5000!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 16.</div> + +<p>To Winchester to take the oaths as Justice of +the Peace. By train to London; attended Board +of Anglo-Greek Co.; much bother by Count +Mataxa.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[100]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 18.</div> + +<p>Dined with the Dean, for which purpose we +borrowed his brougham. Sad intelligence of Lord +Palmerston’s death reached by telegraph.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 19.</div> + +<p>Colonel Randolph came down to look over +cottage and stables. Stopped luncheon and took +no notice of Colin! Drove wife into Winchester. +Went over Tubbs’ stud.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 21.</div> + +<p>Drove dogcart into Southampton. Toys for the +dear wife’s boy, 6s. 2d.!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 22.</div> + +<p>George Lennox came into church, and whispered +he was coming to lunch afterwards. He +borrowed a half-crown of me, intending to stop for +the communion service; but after the sermon he +slipped the coin back into my hand, saying, “That +fellow has so bored me, I am unfit to stay to the +sacrament”!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 28.</div> + +<p>By train to Winchester. Attended for first time +as magistrate. Special sessions.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 30.</div> + +<p>Made a partial clearance in the cellar. Several +articles brought to light. Pair of clam shells for the +Cummings.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 31.</div> + +<p>By early train to London; on returning, stepping +out before train had stopped at Bishopstoke, fell, +striking back against handle of a wheelbarrow. Pain +very great. Home and to bed.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 1.</div> + +<p>Tenants coming in, obliged to clear out. Unable +to accompany wife and children to Bournemouth; +was kindly taken in by Cummings. At once to bed, +being in some pain and under impression that ribs +were broken. Examined by Dr. Goldston; severe +contusion, muscles bruised. Arnica applied, etc. +Time and patience!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 7.</div> + +<p>Took Charles Pilkington with me in dogcart to +the opening of Albert Infirmary, Bishop’s Waltham. +Prince Arthur, Princesses Helena and Louisa. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[101]</span>Luncheon by Helps. Everything well done. Prayer +by Bishop of Winchester. Concert in old Palace.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Bournemouth, +Nov. 12.</div> + +<p>To afternoon service. Do not approve of High +Church practice. Why one is, on going to church +to pray, to be inflicted for half-an-hour with the +catechism of children, I do not understand.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Sunday, +Nov. 26.</div> + +<p>To morning service; a little too much High +Church. Seven parsons in the holiest place!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 27.</div> + +<p>Arrived from London late in the evening at +Brinsley Sheridan’s place, Frampton Court.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Frampton +Court, +Nov. 28.</div> + +<p>As pretty a day’s shooting as one could wish. +Five guns, of which George Bentinck was the best. +B. Sheridan, Lord Archibald St. Maur, Lord Henry +Thynne, and self made the number. There are few +houses where guests are made to feel so welcome as +at Frampton Court.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 29.</div> + +<p>Same guns, with the exception of Lord H. +Thynne, who hunted. All rabbits found in patches +of gorse on side of hill on the Downs. Party at +Frampton Court—Lord Harry and Lady Elrica +Thynne, Mr. Lowe, George Bentinck, Mrs. Phipps, +Mr. and Mrs. Col. Digby, Lady Gifford, Mr. and +Mrs. Marker, E. Digby’s daughter. Dinners excellent, +wines ditto. Ditto conversation in smoking-room +later!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 30.</div> + +<p>Another, the great day’s shooting; same five guns; +no prettier shooting. Two woodcocks; one to my +gun.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 2.</div> + +<p>Mounted by Lord H. Thynne on a four-year old; +kicking at starting. Short run with Lord Poltimore’s +hounds. Home by 3.30 to catch train to +Christchurch. Happy to get back to the “buzzom” +of my family.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Bournemouth, +Dec. 3.</div> + +<p>My darling boy’s birthday; three years, and indeed +a fine specimen.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[102]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 4.</div> + +<p>Glad to get wife out; a fly to Fane’s, where I +shot. Guns, Colonel Fergusson-Davies, Melville, a +young Fane, Colonel Fane, and I. Cheery house to +be in.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 5.</div> + +<p>Mislaid portmanteau and missed my dinner, very +much, with the dear old Dean at Winchester.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 7.</div> + +<p>With Sheriff (Archie Macdonald) to meet Judge +at station. Party to dinner at Deanery.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 8.</div> + +<p>Sworn in as foreman of the Grand Jury: novel +position, got through with assistance of Curzon. +Dinner at the Dean’s; large party, chiefly clergy. +Well-fed, jolly lot.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 10.</div> + +<p>All the churches under influence of Mr. Bennett, +of too much notoriety. “What can do.” Hard upon +those who like to worship and pray to the Almighty +in a quiet way.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 14.</div> + +<p>Took my boy for walk in afternoon. What a +companion is a small child when it’s your own! Crape +round hat for Mrs. Wodehouse and King Leopold.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 16.</div> + +<p>Albemarle-Custs arrived safe after their perilous +voyage in a saloon carriage from London.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 17.</div> + +<p>Enjoyed a morning walk with Colin on the beach; +although wrong, preferred it to High Church with +no place for my hat!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 21.</div> + +<p>A walk with my boy; so companionable. The +wife coming out, we dined with Cust-Albemarle.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 23.</div> + +<p>By train from Shoreditch. Took charge of Louisa +Eyre as far as Harling Road. Dunmore for company. +Did not get to Holkham until 8.20 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> +Picked up Burys <i lang='la'>en route</i>. Family gathering. +Dunmore engaged to Gertrude.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Holkham, +Dec. 24.</div> + +<p>Party, besides family, Burys, Dunmore, Powerscourts, +W. Coke, S. Stephenson, Powell, Tridcroft, +Caulfield, Porter.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 25.</div> + +<p>To morning service. How difficult it is to fall in +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[103]</span>with a good preacher, especially when an extempore, +with beard and moustache! Whist in evening.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 26.</div> + +<p>Shooting to-day—outskirts; twelve guns. Best +of the shooting kept for the Prince. My bag 25 +hares, 2 rabbits, 2 pheasants. Jolly party in the +house. Henry Seymour and wife arrived.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 27.</div> + +<p>Walk with Seymour.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 28.</div> + +<p>Shooting to-day, same guns nearly; more driving +than shooting. Seymours left. Gurdons came.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 29.</div> + +<p>Walk with B. Gurdon: he all the talk. Blind +man’s buff in afternoon. Knocked my old head +against chimney-piece—much to its inconvenience. +Dance after dinner in statue gallery; whist also. +Bury fallen on by Powerscourt, damaged ribs.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Quidenham, +Dec. 30.</div> + +<p>With Sophy Bury after luncheon to Wells—by +train to Quidenham; kindly welcomed. Louisa +Charteris there, Bury children nice.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 31.</div> + +<p>The old year going out in a storm. Went to +church.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[104]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXXII"> + CHAPTER LXXXII + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">A Shore Journal</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1866. +Jan. 1.</div> + +<p>Out shooting with brother George—partridges.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 2.</div> + +<p>Wild partridge shooting with Charles Clements: +20 brace, 5 hares, 6 guns.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 3.</div> + +<p>After shooting to meet friend Henry Eyre at +Garboldisham.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 4.</div> + +<p>Mount with scratch pack harriers.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 5.</div> + +<p>Each afternoon I have sat with poor William +Hoste; although he looks cheery and well in face, +am afraid his days are numbered.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 8.</div> + +<p>Found Holkham full; with P. Powell, Elphinstone, +Dunmore, Tredcroft at the Inn, W. Coke +and Sussex Stephenson going to Pinnock’s to make +room. Attended at 4.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> to receive the Prince +and Princess of Wales, Lady Morton and George +Grey in attendance.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Holkham, +Jan. 9.</div> + +<p>Party in house to meet their Royal Highnesses, +Duke and Duchess of Roxburghe, Lord Beaumont, +Lord and Lady Suffield, Lord and Lady Spencer, +Lord and Lady Powerscourt, Lords Hamilton and +Dunmore and Mr. de Grey, Edward and Di Coke, +P. Powell, Tredcroft, Capt. Elphinstone, W. Coke, +S. Stephenson, Gen. Porter and T. Dunmore, Lord +Alexander Murray. Grand shooting; did not carry +gun until the finish with the rocketers, when I had +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[105]</span>one of Leicester’s. A cheery dance in the evening, in +which old and young joined.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 10.</div> + +<p>A day on the marshes—gentlemen beaters, ladies +attending luncheon. Hamilton, Porter, and self fell +into draining ditches.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 11.</div> + +<p>Weather bad—this, the best day’s shooting, postponed. +Fair day of sport though.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 12.</div> + +<p>This the grand day. Over 2000 head killed. +Luncheon under large tent. Princess and ladies +there. Dance in the evening, I dancing a quadrille +with the most charming of Princesses!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 15.</div> + +<p>At Pratt’s—chat with John Hay.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 16.</div> + +<p>Joined wife at Deanery, Winchester. Party of +twelve at dinner.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 18.</div> + +<p>By early train to Wolverton. Joined by Lord +Clanwilliam and party going to Sandringham, Prince +and Princess coming back from visit to General +Hall.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Sandringham, +Jan. 19.</div> + +<p>Hounds met Sandringham, Prince giving me a +mount. Princess out: capital gallop. Enjoy my +visit much.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 20.</div> + +<p>Percy Feilding and self taken by the Prince to +shoot at Mr. Bagge’s; excellent day. Pleased with +my own performance. Not dressed in time for +dinner, but was spotted by her kind Royal Highness +the Duchess of Cambridge, who saw “the little +Admiral” as he was trying to sneak in behind the +servants.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 21.</div> + +<p>To forenoon church, Charles Kingsley performing.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 22.</div> + +<p>Departure of party; invited by Villebois with +the Prince to shoot driven partridges. 270 brace +bagged during a continual rain.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 23.</div> + +<p>Finish to a most agreeable four days, Prince and +Princess starting for Duke of Sutherland’s, Staffordshire, +Duchess of Cambridge and remainder by rail +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[106]</span>to London. Dined with Cecilia Yorke. Party at +Lord Powlett’s.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 24.</div> + +<p>Train to Bournemouth. Colin and May looking +so well.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 25.</div> + +<p>Dined with Stephens; she, daughter of Sir H. +Pottinger of China notoriety.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 27.</div> + +<p>Dined with Albemarle-Custs.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 3.</div> + +<p>Attended Bench, Winchester.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 5.</div> + +<p>Dined with Page, engineer, meeting T. Weller +and Ward, artist. Pleasant party.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Minterne, +Feb. 10.</div> + +<p>To friend Digby, I bringing a couple of horses +from Chapman’s.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 12.</div> + +<p>Hunted with Sir Richard Glynn’s hounds. Met +many friends. Plenty of foxes, but no good run. +Pleased with my mount. Medlycotts coming to dinner.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 13.</div> + +<p>With Lord Poltimore’s hounds. Good run, +Severe, heavy country. One fall. Ground soft; +several others ditto.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 14.</div> + +<p>Despatches from friend Read at Singapore. +Should like to go out as Governor. Stormy weather +again. Young ones rabbit shooting, I helping to +cut up and clear away wreck of trees blown down.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 16.</div> + +<p>Out with Poltimore. Good run with second +fox. My usual ill luck; badly lamed one of +Chapman’s horses—cut on fetlock, off foreleg, +supposed to be by flint.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 18.</div> + +<p>Afternoon service near Marker’s house. Small, +very nice old-fashioned place. Good sermon—rare +event.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 19.</div> + +<p>Came down prepared for the chase. Frost pronounced +to be too severe, especially over Poltimore’s +downy country. Letter from Mr. Crawshay, enclosing +an interesting one from Bishop Colenso. +Young Digby, Marker and I, shot rabbits. Mr. +Alexander Baring came. Porter left.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">[107]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 20.</div> + +<p>Letter from wife. Colin ill. Changed hunting +costume and rode to Dorchester; train to Poole. +Found the children bad—severe colds.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Minterne, +Feb. 21.</div> + +<p>Horse from King’s Arms to Minterne. In time +for luncheon. Walk with Alexander Baring.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 22.</div> + +<p>Hunted with B.V. hounds. Rode new horse +of Chapman’s—fine animal. Digby, Marker, +Edward Digby and self—a good show from here. +One fox chopped; a second found. No scent. Jolly +day though.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 23.</div> + +<p>Young Digby and I to the B.V. hounds. +Mounted by B. Brooke. Capital jumper. Good +short run, and part of another. Put hack up at +Littletrab’s—Webbes, Medlycott, and Surtees out.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 24.</div> + +<p>With Poltimore’s hounds. Two good runs. +Several falls, I, an absurd one. Marker’s horse +killed. My last day’s hunting.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Bishopstoke, +Feb. 28.</div> + +<p>Dear old Dean entered his ninety-first year. +Attended court as grand juryman. Managed not +to be sworn in as foreman. Lunched with Arthur +Cumming. Rajah Brooke there. Returned to +Winchester. Dinner party as usual.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 1.</div> + +<p>Meeting of magistrates on cattle plague—Chamberlayne, +Bullpitt, Wells, Mulock, self.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Ashwarby, +Mar. 12.</div> + +<p>By train to London and Grantham. Whichcote +to meet us. Welcomed to Ashwarby.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 15.</div> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 16.</div> + +<p>Started for Croxton Park races. Weather unusually +fine. Whichcote’s horse, “Chance,” nowhere. +Our party: Mrs. Franklin, Henry Gray, George +Fitzroy, Colonel Fane. Back in time for 8 o’clock +dinner.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 18.</div> + +<p>Forenoon service. Longish sermon that I did +not hear. Took leave of kind friends.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 19.</div> + +<p>To London. Attended levée, presenting Harry +Stephenson. Dined with Mr. Page, engineer.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[108]</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">Bishopstoke, +Mar. 26.</div> + +<p>Attempt to fly-fish, having seen two rises. Lost +two hooks in two walnut trees. Margaret Garnier +and Tom came, former to stay.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 31.</div> + +<p>Winchester to attend bench. Luncheon at +Deane’s. Thermistophles to win City and Suburban.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">April 3.</div> + +<p>Another large party, chiefly doctors and “rooks,” +also young Lord Mulgrave.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">April 4.</div> + +<p>By early train home. Dined with Atherlys—first-rate.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 10.</div> + +<p>By train to London. Received, through George +Elliot, an offer to take command of the Paraguayan +navy: they at war with the Brazilians.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>This looked like business. Before giving answer, +certain inquiries to be made. My name would be +removed from Her Majesty’s navy list, for which I +should require remuneration. A certain number of +warships: a couple of ironclads to begin with, and a +place to reside in while ships were being manned and +fitted. £34,000 for loss of commission. The first +and greatest difficulty was consent of wife. The +Paraguayan agents appeared to be well satisfied. I +intended to select, as soon as a proper ship had been +provided, the beautiful bay, Bahia, off the Brazilian +coast, as place of rendezvous. I had to provide +officers in anticipation. The agents had already +provided charts, which I daily studied. However, +it all ended without smoke. Means were not forthcoming; +the whole affair was quickly forgotten!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 21.</div> + +<p>To Cosham, on Chamberlayne’s drag to Hambledown. +Hunt races. Capital meeting.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[109]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXXIII"> + CHAPTER LXXXIII + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Home Life</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1866. +Yachting, +April 25.</div> + +<p>Embarked on board <span class='ships'>Dream</span>, George Bentinck, in time +for dinner. At about 9 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> a fruit trading steamer, +weather fine, water smooth, moon shining bright, ran +into two yachts: <span class='ships'>Ione</span>, Captain R. Quin, R.N., and +<span class='ships'>Intrepid</span>, Count F. du Monceaux, carrying away +their bowsprits, damaging bows and knocking two +men overboard. <span class='ships'>Ione</span> was to have joined us on a +cruise.</p> + +<div class="sidenote"><span class='ships'>Dream</span>, +R.Y.S., +April 26.</div> + +<p>10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Got under weigh: light breeze from +eastward. Cook, the same artist Whichcote had in +<span class='ships'>Enchantress</span>. <span class='ships'>Dream</span> substantially built and very +comfortable; yawl rigged. Made fast to a buoy in +Portland Harbour. <span class='ships'>St. George</span> lying here, commanded +by old shipmate E. Rice. Laid out trammel +for red mullet, which are generally plentiful and +good here, but caught whiting pont only.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Portland, +April 27.</div> + +<p>After breakfast landed with Bentinck. Convicts +at work; got some fair specimens of ammonite and +fossil shells. Accompanied Rice on board <span class='ships'>St. George</span>; +guns, stores on board, ready for service, to be manned +from coastguard.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 29.</div> + +<p>Bentinck read prayers to a well-conducted and +attentive crew.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 30.</div> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 3.</div> + +<p>Visited works on the heights by convicts. When +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">[110]</span>the fortifications are finished, where will the men +come from to garrison them? Saw the fossil trees; +some stumps erect, and others buried in the solid +stone.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 4.</div> + +<p>My May’s birthday—promising little yearling.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Cherbourg, +May 5.</div> + +<p>Visited Consul Hammond on the hill, from whose +garden the view is very fine. Consul has two charming +daughters. He came on board to dine.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 7.</div> + +<p>Slipped from the buoy. Sent a boat in for grub, +standing off and on. Made fast to a buoy under +breakwater.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 10.</div> + +<p>Weather tide, nasty swell; felt too sea-sick to turn +out before 2 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, when we got into Portland +Roads. Took leave of kind host in time for mutton +chops, wife dining with the Dean.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Bishopstoke, +May 20.</div> + +<p>Forenoon church. Wife and I received Holy +Sacrament, administered by the Dean, perhaps last time.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 25.</div> + +<p>Visit from Rev. Charles Kingsley, the author, who +stopped to dine with Dean, where we were.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 27.</div> + +<p>Forenoon church. Dear old Dean still reading, +or rather repeating by heart, the prayers as far as the +Litany, in which he included the Collect for the day—Trinity +Sunday.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Bishopstoke, +May 31.</div> + +<p>Telegraph from friend, Page C.E. Off to +London; knowing how much I wanted a job, he +informed me of his having undertaken to raise a large +ironship, the <span class='ships'>London</span>, lying at the bottom of the Tay, +below Dundee, and offered me the job of navigating +her into dock, or some place where she could be got +at for repair.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 1.</div> + +<p>Was invited by the Committee to fill the chair at +R.N. Club dinner to celebrate the anniversary of +Howes’s victory, anniversary also of action between +<span class='ships'>Shannon</span> and <span class='ships'>Chesapeake</span>. Poor little Fatshan forgotten!</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">[111]</span></p> + +<p>While sitting on bridge over the Itchen in garden, +observed a tomtit’s nest in the muzzle of a gun +captured on 1st of June in Fatshan Creek—curious +the uses to which a gun may be put.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 25.</div> + +<p>By train to Dundee. Wife and I in possession of +apartments at the Royal Hotel, where we expected to +find Mr. Page.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Dundee, +June 26.</div> + +<p>Found Mr. Secretary Cooper; no further difficulties. +Visited wreck near low water with working +party. The <span class='ships'>London</span> belonged to the London and +Dundee Steam Company; in December last came in +collision with a steam trader, <span class='ships'>Harvest Queen</span>; both +vessels went down. <span class='ships'>Harvest Queen</span> got up, but being +grounded on a bank, broke her back. Mr. Cooper, +Secretary to the Company, very civil and obliging. +Mr. Low, one of the Directors, also very civil. Page +not arrived.</p> + +<p>Visited the <span class='ships'>London</span> in a steam tug. Two divers, +under management of Mr. Gorman, Admiralty man. +There is an ugly fracture on the starboard side, +about fifteen feet to nothing, about three feet from +the bottom iron, jagged on both sides, the fore side +of fracture bent inward, on after side, outwards, +supposed to be done at the time the <span class='ships'>Harvest Queen</span> +separated by backing astern. Proposed to cover the +hatchway on main deck with coverings secured. +Divers report that seals have taken up their quarters +in the state-rooms, and haddocks swim freely in the +’tween decks.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 14.</div> + +<p>Change of Ministry—Lord Derby, Prime Minister; +Sir John Pakington, First Lord; Vice-Admiral +Sir Alexander Milne, First Sea. <em>This</em> does not break +my heart.</p> + +<p>Saturday, a drunken day amongst workmen in +Scotland, or the <span class='ships'>London</span> might, I think, have been +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">[112]</span>lifted. 2 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> Sunday morning before we got +back.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>Raising the <span class='ships'>London</span> proved a failure, and after +spending two months in Dundee, where wife and self +were hospitably entertained by friends, we returned +to Bishopstoke at the end of August, Colin and +May having benefited by the bracing Scotch air.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[113]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXXIV"> + CHAPTER LXXXIV + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The Command in China</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1866. +Dec. 13.</div> + +<p>I insert the following by kind permission:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<div class='address-left'> +<p class='no-indent'>(<em>Private.</em>)</p> +</div> +<div class='address'> +<p class='center'><span class="smcap">Oakley Park, Scole, Norfolk</span>,</p> +<p class='center'><i>December 12, 1866</i>.</p> +</div> + +<p class='cb'><span class="smcap">My dear Sir Henry</span>—I am glad to be able to tell you +that I received a letter from Sir John Pakington this morning, +announcing his intention of offering you, with the +Queen’s approval, the China Command, as Admiral King is +going to give up, and I am only too happy if I have in any +small way been the means of getting Sir John to give you +this Command.</p> + +<p>Both he and the whole Admiralty are very well disposed +towards you, and I am sure that you will do all in your power +to show them that you are anxious to distinguish yourself +during this Command, as you always have done on previous +occasions.—Believe me, yours very sincerely,</p> + +<div class='signature'> +<p class='right pr1'>(Signed) <span class="smcap">Albert Edward</span>.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p>God bless the Prince of Wales!</p> + +<p>A letter from Sir John Pakington followed.</p> + +<p>The gratification this afforded me I cannot well +describe. The five long years’ treatment I had received +at the hands of the Admiralty fretted me.</p> + +<p>The want of a residence, the unhealthiness of Hong-Kong, +as well as the improbability of the flagship +remaining there for more than a few days at a time, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[114]</span>now that a Commodore has been appointed: the +unsettled state of our relations with Japan, as well as +the uncertainty of the period that I might retain the +Command (being only five from the top of the list of +Vice-Admirals), were only a few of the difficulties of a +wife in China. However, I persuaded her to give +up all idea of going with me, promising, if at the end +of my first year there were two Vice-Admirals on the +list above me, she might come out with the children.</p> + +<p>Letters of congratulation flowed in from kind +friends. From the Prince of Wales; dear Dean +Garnier; one from Charles Kingsley, which much +pleased me.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<div class='address-left'> +<p>(<em>Copy</em>)</p> +</div> +<div class='address'> +<p class='center'><span class="smcap">Eversley Rectory, Winchfield</span>,</p> +<p class='center'><i>December 17, 1866</i>.</p> +</div> + +<p class='cb'><span class="smcap">My dear Admiral</span>—I have this moment heard that +you are to have the China Squadron. Accept my most +cordial congratulations, most disinterested ones, likewise, for +I am afraid that I shall not have the pleasure of seeing you +for some time to come. May you prosper and enjoy yourself +as you deserve, and kill a few more pirates: they seem +to be wanting you again in those parts. Believe me, with +most kind regards to Lady Keppel, ever yours, overjoyed,</p> + +<div class='signature'> +<p class='right pr1'> (Signed) <span class="smcap">C. Kingsley</span>.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Letters from shipmates, down to my old steward, +William White, now an Admiralty messenger, came +pouring in, together with applications from and about +officers to be appointed, giving me more than enough +to do. Besides the Prince of Wales, the Dukes of +Buccleuch and Richmond, as well as my kind kinsman, +Peregrine Cust, interested themselves in getting me +employment.</p> + +<p>King, in command in China, had expressed a +wish to be relieved without delay. His flagship, the +<span class='ships'>Princess Royal</span>, was ordered down to Singapore so +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[115]</span>as to save the last of the northerly monsoon, bringing +the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, commanded by my old friend and shipmate, +Francis Suttie, to receive my flag.</p> + +<p>I was ordered a passage by the overland route, to +leave Southampton on February 20, 1867. Risk, +paymaster in the <span class='ships'>Alert</span>, then in the Pacific, and Harry +Stephenson, commanding a gunboat on the Lakes of +Canada, were ordered home as my Secretary and Flag-Lieutenant, +and I selected friend Heneage as Captain.</p> + +<p>I was invited by the Prince of Wales to Sandringham +to take leave, and afterwards accompanied their +Royal Highnesses to Holkham for the Christmas +week. On the way back stopped a day at Quidenham, +and one with friend General Eyre, who had taken +Garboldisham.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1867. +Jan. 21.</div> + +<p>On January 21 went to Sheerness and hoisted +flag on board the <span class='ships'>Cumberland</span>, which was in due form +saluted by the flagship of Sir Baldwin Walker, who +kindly took us into Admiralty House. At the same +time was hoisted the pennant on board <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, then +in the basin.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 22.</div> + +<p>Returned to London. Having received a letter +from Cowell stating that he had received Her +Majesty’s command to invite me to Windsor on +February 25, to stay till the following day, the +Admiralty ordered my passage <i lang='la'>viâ</i> Marseilles instead +of Southampton, giving me four or five days’ grace.</p> + +<p>Went by invitation, to Miss Burdett-Coutts at +Torquay to take leave of my valued friend Rajah +Brooke, who had lately had a paralytic stroke. +Found him partially recovered, but spirits good and +his powerful mind apparently unaffected. (I never +saw him again.) Left early to join wife, staying +with the Custs at Bournemouth. Taking leave of +these most kind and hospitable relations we returned +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[116]</span>to Bishopstoke for the last days. General Charles +Fox had kindly offered his house, Addison Road, +Kensington: our likenesses being painted by Henry +Graves had yet to be finished.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 24.</div> + +<p>Farewell dinner with H.R.H. the Prince of +Wales.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 25.</div> + +<p>Went down to Windsor. At Paddington found +Lady Caroline Barrington, availing myself of the +carriage sent for her when we reached Windsor. +Dined, a household dinner, Lady Caroline Barrington +and Miss Macdonald in waiting with Biddulph +and Cowell. After dinner, was summoned into the +presence of Her Majesty in the corridor, the Queen +still wearing the widow’s cap. However, I was received +with one of Her Majesty’s pleasantest smiles, and +after some twelve minutes’ conversation, chiefly about +the Duke of Edinburgh and Count Gleichen, I was +graciously dismissed. Cowell saw me into my train.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 26.</div> + +<p>Risk, lately married, was likewise ordered a passage +<i lang='la'>viâ</i> Marseilles. My boy stated when he saw me off +in the train at Bishopstoke that “Dadda would get +out at the China station!” Found French steam +packet at Dover; rail to Paris and Marseilles, where +we arrived at 12.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> Took possession of the +cabin allotted me on board the mail steamer, opening +into the saloon!</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[117]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXXV"> + CHAPTER LXXXV + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Bound for China</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1867. +Malta, +Mar. 2.</div> + +<p>It was half-past ten o’clock on the night of March +2nd when we arrived at Malta. Clarence Paget +came off; we landed together. Rem Macdonald +kept with me, but all the shops were closed, and the +Carnival commenced. Left a letter at Admiralty +House and re-embarked.</p> + +<p>We were off before daylight, and arrived at Alexandria +on the 7th. Here, met my old friend James +Willoughby, who had been appointed Joint Superintendent, +with a military man, to attend the transit +through Egypt of our troops to India. It was about +four when we reached Cairo. Here we were joined by +Harry Stephenson, who had come <i lang='la'>viâ</i> Southampton. +We were informed that we were not to go on to +Suez until the following day. A rush was made to +secure beds. The best had been already bespoken by +the Southampton passengers. However, Stephenson +had thought of us and secured rooms. The transit +through Egypt is managed by the Government. +Most of the officials are French and wear the fez +and Egyptian uniform, as well as religion, for the +time, with equal ease.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 8.</div> + +<p>We made another start at 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> and took a +plentiful supply of oranges, which we found agreeable +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">[118]</span>crossing the desert. At Suez I found another friend +in Dunn the Captain of the P. and O. steamer +<span class='ships'>Surat</span>; we first became acquainted when he was in +command of one of the hired transports at Balaklava. +He kindly took me in his gig to visit the +great dock and engineering works carried on by +the French under M. de Lesseps. Time, money, +and perseverance will, I believe, complete the great +work of the Suez Canal. De Lesseps is sanguine at +no distant period of being able to pass a ship of the +line from the Mediterranean to the Red Sea. No +English capitalists have, however, invested a shilling +in the affair, and the whole nation has come in for +an amount of abuse, attributing our reluctance to +share in the French glory to bad motives.</p> + +<p>We did not get away until the morning of the 9th. +Among our passengers was Dr. Milman, the newly-appointed +Bishop of Calcutta. He read prayers on +Sunday and gave us a short extemporary discourse. +On Perim we have a lighthouse: some eight years +ago, the mail steamer on passing observed a French +brig-of-war surveying; and on the afternoon of the +next day the French captain mentioned to Colonel +Coghlan, the Governor of Aden, with whom he was +dining, that he was going the next morning to take +possession of Perim in the name of the French +Government. Coghlan, without rising from table, +or taking any apparent notice of what had been said, +pencilled a few words on a scrap of paper to the +Captain of Artillery ordering him to proceed at once +with a party and hoist the British colours on the +island. The French captain’s disappointment the +next day when he found himself forestalled would +have been worth seeing. A correspondence took +place between the two Governments; when it was +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[119]</span>proved that we had prior possession during our war +with France, when we retained Perim, but under a +promise we should not fortify it.</p> + +<p>Cain is supposed to have been buried there, or +thereabouts.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Aden, +Mar. 14.</div> + +<p>Early on Thursday morning we came to in Aden. +The Resident, Colonel Merewether, immediately sent +off to invite me to Government House while the +<span class='ships'>Surat</span> coaled, and sent his carriage to the landing +place. It was pleasant to get into a cool airy house, +and to write one’s letters in peace and quiet. After +dinner at three o’clock, we were taken to see those +wonderful water tanks that have lately been cleaned, +whose ancient date no one has been able to decide. +The cement with which the rock’s sides and bottom +of the ravine are lined, as well as the steps, is as perfect +and in as good repair as if yesterday’s work. They +had had no rain for eighteen months, but an aqueduct +was in progress, which will shortly bring a supply +from a stream some six miles distant. Experienced +much attention and kindness from Captain Dunn.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Galle, +Mar. 23.</div> + +<p>The cleanliness and comfort of the <span class='ships'>Surat</span> spoilt us +for any other vessel. Nevertheless, on arriving at +Point de Galle at 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> on the 23rd, we were transferred +to <span class='ships'>Ottawa</span>. The yards were manned as the +last little attention the Captain could pay me on +quitting the ship. On landing at Point de Galle I +was received by Colonel Hodgson, Brigadier-General +and Commander-in-Chief. In the reign of George +II. this officer’s grandfather and the then Commodore +Keppel had been selected to act together for the +capture of Belle Isle from the French: a friendship +between the families was then established and has +continued ever since. We passed the heat of the +day in the “Queen’s House,” occupied by the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[120]</span>General, who, after having entertained us at dinner, +embarked with us on board the <span class='ships'>Ottawa</span>: he going +to the Straits Settlements on an official inspection.</p> + +<p>We found the <span class='ships'>Ottawa</span> comparatively small, ill +ventilated, with a suffocating smell of opium. But +there was the same civility and attention that we had +experienced on board all the P. and O. Company’s +ships.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Penang, +Mar. 29.</div> + +<p>Anchored in Penang Roads. Went on shore +during the six hours the steamer was to stay, and +visited my kind old friends, Mr. and Mrs. Lewis, +both Rodyks, and found one or two other friends of +former days still remaining.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 30.</div> + +<p>Found the Straits much improved by a light-vessel, +as well as by a good light on Cape Ricardo.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Singapore, +Mar. 31.</div> + +<p>Sunday at 2 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> the <span class='ships'>Ottawa</span> steamed alongside +the P. and O. Company’s wharf in New Harbour, +Singapore. Captains Edge of <span class='ships'>Satellite</span>, Ross of <span class='ships'>Pearl</span>, +Menzies of <span class='ships'>Osprey</span>, and Suttie of <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> were there +to receive me, as well as friend W. H. Read and the +Governor’s secretary, Mr. Plow, brother to a lad +who was with me in the <span class='ships'>Forte</span>. Many other +friends were also there.</p> + +<p>As the new Governor, Sir Harry Ord, was to be +installed in due form on the morrow, a few arrangements +for salutes and officers’ attendance had to be +made. At 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> my flag was hoisted on board +the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> and I became Commander-in-Chief of +the China station, and, being senior, at once +assumed the duties. It being Sunday negatived +the salute until the following morning. On landing +was driven by friend Read to his house, where, by +previous arrangement, took up my quarters.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">April 1.</div> + +<p>Read’s house was on one of the numerous hills, +each of which is crowned by a residence. On looking +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[121]</span>out in the early morning from the verandah, an +extensive view in front of the town and anchorage, +and from behind of the country inland. How many +associations of bygone days—some sad, but many +more, pleasant—were brought to mind.</p> + +<p>The morning commenced by saluting my flag. +At noon we repaired to the Town Hall to assist in +the inauguration of the new Governor, and the transfer +of Straits Settlements from the Indian to the +Colonial Government. Separate salutes were fired on +each occasion: an event in the history of Singapore.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">April 4.</div> + +<p>Read kindly allotted a room in his new godown, +which was close to a landing-place, for an office, and +the business of the station under the new Chief was +commenced. Receiving and returning visits occupied +much time, and in evenings, dinners to meet the +Governor, the Military and Naval Commanders-in-Chief, +were the order of the day. The weather was +hot and the weight of epaulettes at these ceremonious +dinners told.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">April 5.</div> + +<p>Early on the morning of the 5th, and sooner than +was expected, the <span class='ships'>Princess Royal</span> hove in sight. It +seldom happens that a Commander-in-Chief is relieved +by a senior, and more than the usual amount of +jealousy between those in command and those whose +reign was so suddenly at an end took place. However, +I found my old friend George King the same +as ever. Inspected <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> and examined the +comfortable quarters that had been fitted for the +use of self and staff.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">April 6.</div> + +<p>Returned King’s visit; was received on board +<span class='ships'>Princess Royal</span> with manned yards; finished with an +excellent luncheon and inspection of the many curios +collected in Japan and elsewhere. Nephew Augustus +Hill on board in R.M.L.I.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[122]</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">April 8.</div> + +<p><span class='ships'>Princess Royal</span> was off at daylight. Had King +been senior, I have no doubt but that he would have +remained longer.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 13.</div> + +<p>The <span class='ships'>Pearl</span> started in advance of us for Sarawak. +Ross had permission to use his own discretion about +going up to the town. Paid a visit to the Tumongong +of Johore, who now styles himself “Maharajah.” I +recollect him in his father’s time in different circumstances. +He has been to England, received at Court, +and decorated with the Star of India.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Singapore, +April 14.</div> + +<p>Among the improvements at Singapore is an +exceedingly neat and handsome church. No want of +opportunities for writing to England, as the French +packets run alternate weeks with the regular P. and O. +Company.</p> + +<p>There are few ships without a favourite dog—in +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span> Suttie has one Carlo, an intelligent mongrel +and great favourite. On shore he can take his own +part, although not too big. He is besides a good +pointer as well as retriever.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 15.</div> + +<p>I had fixed 15th April for the inspection of the +<span class='ships'>Satellite</span> as well as that for our departure for Sarawak, +Labuan, Manilla, and Hong-Kong. Before leaving +the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, I had a visit from M. Troplong, the +French Consul, who was very anxious that we +should join his nation in avenging the defeat they +had experienced last year at the hands of the +Coreans.</p> + +<p>While I was inspecting the <span class='ships'>Satellite</span>, my friend +General Hodgson, with Colonel Young, went on board +the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, which then got under weigh, W. H. Read +and Goodlake with us. <span class='ships'>Satellite</span> hoisted flag and +saluted the General on his leaving. There was consternation +on board on its being discovered that Carlo +was nowhere to be found. His description was +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[123]</span>written out and a reward offered on shore for his +recovery, but it was unfortunately the season when +the policemen are directed to destroy all stray dogs. +Alas, poor Carlo!</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Flag in +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, +April 16.</div> + +<p>Observing from the bridge one of these small Nipa +Palm islands floating ahead, and not having gone to +quarters when I inspected the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, I thought this +would be a good opportunity, so we beat to quarters +and opened fire on the floating island.</p> + +<p>In the middle of the rushing about incidental to +going to quarters, and with the first cartridge, who +should turn up but the dog Carlo, jumping with +delight on his master and everybody else. Welcome +little dog! the last time the magazine was opened was +on Sunday, when the gunner went down at 8.40 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> +to get a cartridge for the nine o’clock gun, it being +dark, the dog must have got locked in. How he +existed or what his feelings were in that atmosphere +he knows best. If I had not fancied the Nipa Palm +for a target, poor Carlo might have been smothered +or starved to death.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 17.</div> + +<div class="sidenote">Sarawak.</div> + +<p>Early morning found us off Tanjong Datu; +before eight we had passed the Santobong entrance, +and soon after rounded Tanjong Sipang and stood +for the Maratobas entrance to the Sarawak River. +These bold headlands and magnificent scenery, +although I had visited them frequently since, brought +fresh to my mind some five-and-twenty years ago, +when I first came up in the <span class='ships'>Dido</span> with James Brooke +on board, and gave the first, and nearly the only, +help he ever had in securing his position; thereby +enabling him to carry out his philanthropic views for +the benefit of a strange race. If he has not succeeded +to the full extent of his, then, sanguine hopes, still +there is no man living or to come who, single-handed, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[124]</span>will have benefited his fellow-creatures to the extent +Brooke has.</p> + +<p>In 1842 piracy, slavery, and head-hunting were +the order of the day. The sail of a peaceful +trader was nowhere to be seen, not even a fisherman’s +hut along the length of this beautiful coast. +Far into the interior the Malays and Dyaks warred +on one another. Now, how different! Huts and +fishing-stakes are to be seen all along the coast; +the town of Kuching, which on the visit of the <span class='ships'>Dido</span> +had scarcely 800 inhabitants, now has a population +of over 20,000. At least 250,000 of the aborigines +who called themselves warriors are now peaceful +traders and cultivators of the soil. The jungle is +fast being cleared to make way for farms; and to +prove what industry can do, Miss Burdett-Coutts +has taken a tract of 500 acres of jungle—far from +being the most productive soil that could be found—where +everything that is likely to thrive within the +tropics will be introduced into this model farm. +Fruits such as pineapple, bananas, mangosteens, and +oranges were doing well. Rice and sago, mulberry +trees to feed silkworms, were all in progress.</p> + +<p>On arriving up the river at the Quop junction, we +found the <span class='ships'>Pearl</span> had proceeded up, drawing over 19 +feet water. Rejoicing in our steaming up this beautiful +river, and just abreast of a shelf of rocks on which +I so nearly lost the <span class='ships'>Dido</span>, I found that my ill-luck in +finding the bottom had not forsaken me. I believe +the helm was ported to avoid running down a canoe +that attempted to cross our bows. And we were +bumped hard upon the rocks! With a rising tide +we did not remain, but we knew not until long +afterwards what mischief was done.</p> + +<p>On approaching the capital, the <span class='ships'>Pearl</span> saluted my +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[125]</span>flag, and after coming to an anchor higher up, she +hoisted the flag and saluted that of Sarawak. A +guard of honour received me on landing, where I was +met by my old friend and shipmate, Charles Johnson, +now Tuan Muda. He had changed his name to that +of Brooke. A nice boy, spoilt by assuming a name +he was then unfit for! <span class='ships'>Pearl</span> had not escaped the +<span class='ships'>Dido</span> rocks, and Captain Ross brought on board +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span> a piece of false keel and sheets of copper, +which divers found displaced! These accidents are +sad bores, occurring too at a time when I wished to +establish a reputation at the Admiralty as a cautious +and careful chief.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 18.</div> + +<p><span class='ships'>Pearl</span> started against the afternoon flood-tide to +precede us to Labuan. We remained a few days to +enjoy the hospitality of the Tuan Muda, who repeatedly +expressed the good effect our visit would +have—the influence which would be felt to the farther +end of the Rajah’s dominions.</p> + +<p>All the native chiefs came to visit me, the “Rajah +Laut” (Sea King) as they styled me, but most of my +original friends who had fought for the suppression +of piracy had passed away. All the occurrences of +that stirring time were fresh in the memory of the +children, and old Patingi Alli’s son was now one of +the principal chiefs, a most useful and worthy man. +His gallant old father was killed with many others +while serving with the <span class='ships'>Dido’s</span> boats.</p> + +<p>In the evenings we rode with the Tuan Muda +along a two-mile road, cut through that ever interesting +and magnificent jungle.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 20.</div> + +<p>About three in the afternoon we took our departure, +the Tuan Muda having supplied us with +turkeys and geese that would have done credit to a +Norfolk farm. A sumpitan, a necklace, and three +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[126]</span>Dyak swords, some deer horns and alligators’ eggs, +were among the curios we brought away.</p> + +<p>The Tuan Muda is quiet, reserved, and gentlemanlike, +with a determination not to be surpassed, +with a sense of justice—qualifications fully appreciated +by the chiefs.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Labuan, +April 22.</div> + +<p>8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Came to in Victoria Harbour, Labuan. +Several old friends came on board—Hugh Low, +Acting-Governor; Claude de Crespigny, Harbour +Master, formerly a lieutenant with me; and Dr. +Treacher, one of the Rajah’s earliest followers. Each +of them I had known some twenty years before. All +the troops, part of a Sepoy regiment, formed a guard +to receive me on landing, when I became the guest +of my friend Low. His daughter has just come out +from home, a nice-looking girl, not quite seventeen. +Her mother was a daughter of “Billy” Napier, and +came out with me in the <span class='ships'>Mæander</span>. I was present +at her wedding with Low. The poor girl died at +Labuan when her daughter, who is very like her, +was but two years old. Mrs. Low’s grave is in one +of the loveliest spots of Low’s beautiful garden, +hidden from view by a grove of orange trees. The +boy, Brooke Low, is still in England. Low and De +Crespigny kindly added to my collection of shells. +Harry Stephenson and self were put up at Government +House. W. H. Read and Goodlake, he being +the bearer of a letter from Yelverton, were received +elsewhere.</p> + +<p><span class='ships'>Salamis</span> proceeded in the afternoon to Coal +Point. The island of Labuan having been ceded +by the Sultan of Brunei, was taken possession of in +the name of the Government by Captain Rodney +Mundy under Sir Thomas Cochrane, on account +of the coal mines. These mines, owing to bad +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[127]</span>management and a jobbing company, have not +succeeded as they might have done, but the island +has been useful in other ways. Our occupation has +driven piracy from the N.W. Coast, though it is still +rife to the eastward of Borneo. The slave trade has +likewise had a check, and their treatment on the +opposite coast has been ameliorated, as it is known +that slaves have only to escape to British territory to +be free. Power has passed from the Sultan and his +chiefs.</p> + +<p>We had a Consul at Brunei once, but he has +been replaced by a native agent. The United States +are represented by a disagreeable scamp named Moss, +who has hitherto lived by his wits. He persuaded +the Sultan to cede to him a portion of the north-eastern +coast, as well as some of the adjacent +islands, to none of which had the Sultan any just +claim; fortunately no valid agreement was drawn +up. When Mr. Moss had to make a first deposit, no +money was forthcoming; he enlisted a countryman, by +name Terrie, who was to find the needful and go +partners on condition that the property ceded was +to be placed in his name.⁠<a id="FNanchor_4_4" href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> The title-deeds were +returned to the Sultan to be altered. In the meantime +they fell out. No money was forthcoming, and +the Sultan retained the title-deeds, which Mr. Moss +wished to have returned to him.</p> + +<p>As Mr. Moss could now neither borrow nor steal, he +decided on the dodge of setting fire to his own house, +and accused the Sultan of having instigated his people +to do it, hoping not only to be revenged for the detention +of the title-deeds, but to receive indemnification. +But the cleverest fellows outwit themselves: the fact +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[128]</span>of his having removed his wife and small effects to +Labuan a few days previously, and then the statement +that he was fired on twelve times with musketry, +which no one heard, are facts.</p> + +<p>On Wednesday, being mounted by Low, we rode +through the magnificent jungle peculiar to Labuan, +by the Coal Point Road; eight miles brought us there. +At 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> went on board <span class='ships'>Pearl</span>, under manned +yards, and inspected a perfect man-of-war. She sailed +in the afternoon for Hong-Kong; we took until +night to complete coal and followed in the morning; +steering for the Palawan passage with every prospect +of fine weather.</p> + +<div class='footnotes'> +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_4_4" href="#FNanchor_4_4" class="label">[4]</a> This portion of the island was ceded to the British North +Borneo Company by Royal Charter in 1881.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[129]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXXVI"> + CHAPTER LXXXVI + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The China Command</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1867. +Hong-Kong, +April 30.</div> + +<p>On the 30th April found myself once more entering +Hong-Kong by the Lyemoon passage. Commodore +Oliver Jones’s broad +pennant was flying in +the <span class='ships'>Princess Charlotte</span>, +a huge three-decker, +painted yellow and +white, and looking +shorter and higher +than any Ning Po +junk. A small fleet +of gunboats looking +very like business. +Stopped on board to +receive the usual +official visits.</p> + +<figure class='figleft' id='i_129'> + <img class='v50' src='images/i_129.jpg' alt=''> + <figcaption>The Commodore.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 1.</div> + +<p>At noon the shore +guns fired a salute, +which was cleverly +returned by the gunboats firing in succession. The +Governor having sent to know the time when I +landed, at 2 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> was received by Colonel Guy and +a guard of 73rd Regiment. His Excellency, Sir +Richard MacDonnell, having sent his carriage, I +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[130]</span>went, accompanied by the Commodore and Flag-Lieutenant, +at once to get visit of ceremony over. +We found His Excellency and charming wife. Took +up my quarters with old friend John Dent at the +palace of Dent and Co.; a room was allotted for +Harry Stephenson, as well as for W. H. Read. The +flag was transferred to the <span class='ships'>Princess Charlotte</span>.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Hong-kong.</div> + +<p>The Opera company small, but for a beginning very +fair, and included three French ballet dancers. My +conveyance was a chair with four bearers, good-tempered +fellows whom no work could tire. Was +made an honorary member of the Artillery and +Engineers, as well as of the 73rd Mess. The wife of +Colonel Guy was the eldest daughter of my old chief +Admiral Plumridge, as was also Mrs. Cumming in +the same regiment, by his second wife.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 4.</div> + +<p>Read, Stephenson and self went to Macao, in an +American-built steamer running between Macao and +Hong-Kong. Nothing could be cleaner or more +comfortable than these vessels.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 5.</div> + +<p>We left Hong-Kong at 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> and entered the +inner harbour three hours and a half later. We put +up at the house of Dent and Co., provisions and +servants having been sent with us. Considerable improvement +had been effected by the last governor in +roads, cleanliness of streets, etc. A lighthouse had +also been built, but as these improvements required +money that might otherwise have been remitted to +the mother country, the governor was not allowed to +remain. After dinner we visited the gambling-houses, +recently licensed, curious to see, but too hot +to remain in for many minutes.</p> + +<p>The rules of the game appeared to me less unfair for +the player than most games of the sort. A small square +cloth in the centre of the table is marked 1, 2, 3, and 4 +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[131]</span>on the sides. Before placing your stake, a heap of small +pice is placed by the dealer or keeper before him on +the table, which is partially covered by a cup, the +pice are then withdrawn by a pointed stick or long +steel needle. As each four are separated they are +swept into the original heap from which the handful +had just been taken. Four at a time are so withdrawn +until the last lot, under five, remain. It is +according to the number left whether 1, 2, 3 or 4 win.</p> + +<p>For instance, if three remain, and you put your +money on, you get three times your stake. I was +next an American gentleman who had had a dream +in which No. 1 was the winning number; in backing +his dream he had lost $1400.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">May 6 +to 14.</div> + +<p>On Sunday 5th the English mail arrived at Hong-Kong. +Our letters were sent to us in one of the +gunboats, the first letters we had received since +leaving home. All good news with the exception of +the death of Sir Phipps Hornby, removing one admiral +from the active list, and rendering the probability +of my completing my three years less.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Hong-kong.</div> + +<p>Returned to Hong-Kong in time for Dent’s +breakfast. Tuesday, visited the new docks, which +are being excavated at Aberdeen, magnificent docks, +400 feet long, capable of holding any ironclad likely +to be sent to this station.</p> + +<p>One afternoon, partly walking and partly being +carried in chairs, we went over the island by the gap +to Dent’s house at Pokofolum, which must be a delightful +residence in the S.W. monsoon: it has both a vegetable +and flower garden. Some Formosa fallow-deer +were thriving in a secured place. Being pressed for +time, we returned in our chairs, Overbeck on foot, and +reached the town-house in forty-seven minutes! Six +miles. I had to dine at Government House, a large +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[132]</span>party. Commodore Jones entertains lavishly. He +gave me an excellent dinner the other day. His +quarters on board the <span class='ships'>Princess Charlotte</span> are roomy, +airy, and most comfortable. Dined also a large +party, with Mr. Whittal, Jardine and Matheson’s +representative. They have a very nice house prettily +situated on a hill. The table, furniture, etc., were as +good as money could procure. Around the rooms +were some superb race cups, such as I fancied were +only to be seen on the front of the stand at Goodwood.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Whampoa, +May 14.</div> + +<p>Harry Stephenson and I started by packet steamer +for Whampoa. Fine boats, American build, leave +Hong-Kong and Canton every morning, meeting +somewhere about the Bogue Forts. They now belong +to a company, and fly the English flag. They +perform the journey generally within eight hours, +carrying cargo, many Chinese passengers and a few +Europeans, seldom more than ten.</p> + +<p>We got out at Whampoa to see the <span class='ships'>Pearl</span> and +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span> in dock. <span class='ships'>Pearl</span> but little damaged, a small +portion of her fore-foot and false keel. More serious +the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>: four-and-twenty of her timbers fractured, +and damage to keel; necessary to take out two foremost +boilers, both of which required repair. Advantage +of this opportunity was taken to have accommodation +on deck improved. All the work well superintended +and conducted by Mr. Gillies, a most useful servant +to the Dock Company.</p> + +<p>Went on in the <span class='ships'>Banterer</span>, commanded by my old +shipmate Pringle, to Canton, but even this small vessel +could not keep off the bottom while I was on board—passing +the second barrier she bumped heavily, and, +as I found afterwards, rubbed copper off.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Canton, +May 15.</div> + +<p>We anchored off, what I recollect as a densely +populated floating street of flower boats. All +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[133]</span>that portion of the river has since been walled +and filled in, forming an island on which were +the foreign consulates and residences. The island +retains the name of Shaimen. On landing I was +received by the Consul-General, Robertson, and, +after looking over the buildings, we, Stephenson and +self, got into chairs, and proceeded into the city +of Canton, the Consul’s residence being within the +Tartar quarter and interior wall, inside this great +walled city, closed for so many centuries against all +foreigners.</p> + +<p>We traversed nearly three miles of narrow, +densely-populated streets before we reached the +Tartar yamun. Robertson had the good taste +not to alter anything beyond the addition of a little +European furniture. The building was old, and I +occupied a bed which had most likely been slept in by +some Tartar general when they captured Canton from +the Chinese in the seventeenth century. At the back +of the house were a court and out-buildings, and the +remains of a large building which caught fire, nobody +knew how, when occupied by our troops in 1861.</p> + +<p>Beyond this again was a park-like enclosure, containing +small hills, trees, and deer. Although not more +than 15 acres, the extent was great when you consider +that it was in the heart of a densely-populated +walled city. The weather was bad, and we did not +see half of what we might had we had more time.</p> + +<p>Nothing, however is more curious than the city +itself, the shops and the narrow streets along which +our chairmen travelled at what appeared a reckless +pace, bellowing to make people get out of the way, +but somehow hurting nobody. We visited some of +the prisons containing culprits under sentence of +death; they appeared indifferent as to their fate, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[134]</span>looked and laughed at us. Others at work making +or embroidering clothes—not for themselves. About +1500 are executed annually! At the entrance gate +to the Tartar General’s yamun are large figures of +nondescript animals carved in granite and of great +antiquity.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 17.</div> + +<p>My friend Robertson bore a strong resemblance +to Lord Nelson and Lord John Russell. Whether +he had guests or not he sat daily at the head of his +dinner-table in great form. A row of servants on +the right, with several dogs in front, all looking +equally solemn. On the left was a long sideboard +variously ornamented; plates and cups of silver.</p> + +<p>After dinner, when everything was quiet, I noticed +rats playing about, picking up crumbs the Consul had +thrown out during dinner. I drew his attention to +them and proposed to set the dogs on; to which +Robertson objected, saying they did no harm, and +that if frightened they would throw out such a +stench of musk no one could stay in the room. The +deer in his park would scarcely move out of his way.</p> + +<p>Took leave of our kind host, who would accompany +us to the steamer, lying ready alongside a wharf built +in front of the site of the old factories, where, some +quarter of a century before, when in command of +the <span class='ships'>Dido</span>, I had passed many pleasant days. Not a +vestige remains to indicate the site.</p> + +<p>Accompanying the captain round the decks and +among the various groups of Chinamen, some gambling, +others opium-smoking, we came to the women’s +department, old and young, with children of various +ages—some at the breast. In the fore part of all I +observed three old hags of repulsive aspect; some had +three or four infants slung around them, varying in age +from two months to a year. These, I found, were for +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[135]</span>sale, a ready market being found among the less poor +Chinawomen of Hong-Kong; the price asked me for +the finest was four dollars, but that was an exorbitant +demand. How the old hags came by the children +is all conjecture.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Hong-Kong, +May 18.</div> + +<p>Returned to Hong-Kong. In the afternoon +accompanied the Governor to visit Stone Cutter’s +Island, on which his predecessor had built a magnificent +prison, but which, owing to the energetic +measures lately adopted for ridding the island of +bad characters and marking the worst in the face +and publicly scourging those that return, crime +has so much diminished that the prison in Hong-Kong +is found sufficient to accommodate those that +require such lodgings.</p> + +<p>His Excellency’s visit on this occasion was to +ascertain the opinion of the Commodore and myself +as to the feasibility of transferring the naval establishment +to the island. The position would have +been good had it been selected at first, but as +£200,000 has been laid out on the one in Victoria +the Board of Admiralty would not be likely to +sanction the extra expense. There is no doubt +that the naval and military establishments in Victoria +are considerable obstructions to the improvement +of the city, and prevent the continuation of a +sea or harbour frontage and sea wall, with a road, +or praya, which is intersected for more than 3000 +feet at the part occupied by us and the military.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 23.</div> + +<p><span class='ships'>Pearl</span> being ready for sea the flag was shifted +from the <span class='ships'>Princess Charlotte</span> to her.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 24.</div> + +<p>Being Her Majesty’s Birthday the ships were +dressed with masthead flags, and at noon a general +royal salute was fired, batteries and ourselves, the +reports sounding with great effect under the high +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">[136]</span>land. Soirée at Government House, everybody +attending.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Flag in +<span class='ships'>Pearl</span>, +May 27.</div> + +<p>Embarked on board <span class='ships'>Pearl</span>, when I was received +with manned yards, to visit different parts of the +station. <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> still under repair. At 2 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> returned +the Commodore’s salute and steamed out of +Hong-Kong by the Cap Sing Moon passage, having +been a month most kindly and hospitably entertained +by John Dent and his cheery and good partner +Oberbeck.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Swatow, +May 28.</div> + +<p>We arrived early off Swatow, but having to wait +for water over the bar came to outside. It was +9 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> before we brought up off the Consul’s house, +on the right bank and opposite side to the town. +These Swatow Chinese are a turbulent and troublesome +set, hardly yet accustomed to the sojourn +among them of the hated barbarian. An attempt +made by a Mr. Richardson to establish in a house he +had built and furnished a few miles up the river was +opposed by the natives, over whom the authorities +appear to have little or no control. They damaged +the house, carried off the furniture, and ill-treated +Mr. Richardson’s servants. The gunboat <span class='ships'>Drake</span> +had gone up to look after other matters. The +Consul, Mr. Caine, was absent, and the duty done by +his Vice, Mr. Cooper, who hailed from Norfolk, and +had a pretty wife and a boy nearly as fine as my +Colin.</p> + +<p>We exchanged visits, the Consul getting his +salute. Swatow is an uninteresting place to the +visitor, but an extensive trade is carried on from a +large city some distance up, Ch’ao-Chow-fu. In the +month of March last the U.S. barque <span class='ships'>Rover</span> sailed +from Swatow, got into a gale off Formosa, struck on +a rock, made more water than the pumps could keep +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">[137]</span>under, when the captain and crew took to the boats +and saw their ship founder.</p> + +<p>The captain had his wife and first mate with +him and a Chinese crew, in another boat was a +mate and also a Chinese crew. The boats separated, +and after a while the captain landed on +the southern coast of Formosa, and while preparing +a meal was attacked. They retreated to +hide themselves in the jungle, and all were supposed +to have been murdered with the exception of one +Chinaman, who hid himself until dark and then +found his way to a China village some twelve miles off.</p> + +<p>He subsequently reached Amoy, where he found +no American man-of-war, so went to the <span class='ships'>Cormorant</span> +and stated the above facts to Commander Broad, who +lost no time in proceeding to the spot; he found the +<span class='ships'>Rover’s</span> boat where her captain had left her, but on +attempting a further examination he was fired on +from the jungle. His boat was shot through and +one man wounded. Unable to see his foe, after sending +a few rounds into the jungle he wisely withdrew. +The United States Admiral sent a small vessel, which +could get no satisfaction, and consequently could give +none to the friends of the missing captain and his +wife.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Swatow, +May 29.</div> + +<p>During the afternoon of the Wednesday an old +American acquaintance of former years at Whampoa, +Mr. Botefuhr, came on board to solicit interference +and assistance from me, which he stated +he had in vain applied for to his own Admiral. +Botefuhr’s wife is sister to the wife of the captain +of the <span class='ships'>Rover</span>, and although it is known that many +were killed there is as yet no positive proof that the +captain and his wife were slain. My poor friend +clung to the hope that the savages would not have +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">[138]</span>the heart to murder one so fair as his sister-in-law, +who was so young, and, as he described her, “only +a few months married, comely to look on, and of +nice proportions.” It is difficult for me to interfere +without causing jealousy on the part of the +United States Admiral. My friend, Botefuhr, has +already drawn comparisons not complimentary to his +countryman.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 30.</div> + +<p>Started in charge of a pilot, a European, of whom +there are seven, at 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>, having crossed the bar, +found the wind fresh from the N.E., and shaped our +course inside the Namoa Island, during daylight the +pleasantest route; finding the wind freshening we +brought up for the night in Tong Sang, a well-sheltered +anchorage.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 31.</div> + +<p>Weather fine, at 5 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> steamed out; performed +the 74 miles to Amoy with three boilers in seven +hours.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">[139]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXXVII"> + CHAPTER LXXXVII + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">North China Ports</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1867. +Amoy, +May 31.</div> + +<p>At Amoy we found the <span class='ships'>Cormorant</span>, a pretty fast +despatch gunboat, Commander Broad, whose master +came with him and piloted us to a berth in the inner +harbour, thereby exciting the jealousy of our own +smart master, who might have made a mistake in +the passage between the town and the island of +Kulangsau. Later in the year this place was celebrated +for that prince of fruits, the pumalo. Of +course there are many others, but none to be compared +to it.</p> + +<p>The trade here, although one of the first ports +open to foreigners, is not equal to Swatow. It +is one of the outlets for the enormous province +of Fuh Kien, and an accessible port. There is a +rare animal here in the shape of a really <em>active</em> +Chinese Admiral, and piracy within reach of his +station is unusual, although it is supposed that time, +place and opportunity offering, his cruisers are not +above levying blackmail. A good dock, 286 feet long, +and capable, owing to a great rise and fall of tide, +of taking in vessels drawing 17 feet, into which +the <span class='ships'>Cormorant</span> will go on Tuesday next for repairs. +Our Consul appears to be conspicuously and well-housed +on the highest part of Kulangsau, commanding +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">[140]</span>a view both up and down the river. On this island +most Europeans live, keeping their offices in the town +of Amoy. Coal to be had, and always ready, but the +coolies lazy, coal being sent in ten or twelve-ton boats.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 1.</div> + +<p>French mail arrived, bringing news up to May 6. +A wonderful change is here! No news of importance. +Rumours of warlike preparations. Nations +hesitate nowadays before striking a first blow, but +those armed to the teeth are not so easily kept in +check. The only really sad news from England is +the continued suffering of that most amiable of all +Princesses.</p> + +<p>Broad gave me a pair of walrus teeth, put on +board him by a suspicious-looking junk, manned and +armed for war, but there was no proof of aggression.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 3.</div> + +<p>Inspected <span class='ships'>Cormorant</span> at 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> In excellent order. +Received with manned yards. No room for ball +practice, but clear for action, and guns loaded within +three minutes. Noon.—Weighed in <span class='ships'>Pearl</span> and steamed +out, two boilers. An old <span class='ships'>St. Jean d’Acre</span>, Shearman, +chief engineer.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 4.</div> + +<p>In the morning we were off the Dogs’ Islands, and +a pilot shortly on board. Although we made sail, +we were too late to save the high water over the bar; +brought up until the morning. While at anchor +observed numbers of curious-looking snakes floating +past; they did not appear lively, and the pilot pronounced +them to have been washed out of the paddyfields. +Had one caught in a bucket. It appeared +more dead than alive, and it was with difficulty that +we discovered its mouth and something like eyes; it +was a brownish colour, about a foot long, and as +transparent as a jelly-fish: some of us thought it was +a piece of seaweed, even after handling.</p> + +<p>The tail end appeared more lively than the head; at +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">[141]</span>different parts of the body it had the appearance of +having been ripped in two by a piece of thread tied +round the body. Some one on board had read in +some book that if you broke these snakes at their +apparent joints, each piece became a separate snake. +The head was considerably thicker than the other part +of the body; it tapered gradually to the tail. While +moving in the water it looked like a lively and +dangerous animal, but in a basin of water it was +almost inanimate.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 5.</div> + +<p>Soon after 9 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> weighed and steamed into the +entrance of the river Min. Carrying the tide with us, +we made rapid progress through a tortuous channel +until we came to the contracted entrance of the Kiu +Pai Pass, when nothing can be prettier than the +scenery, which again opens into a wide expanse for +three or four miles, and then the channel enters +between high rocky hills, not unlike the best parts of +the scenery on the Rhine.</p> + +<p>Three miles of this brought us to Pagoda Island, +where we anchored. The city of Foo-chow is some +ten miles higher up, but to be approached only by +small craft. From this port three clipper tea-ships +started last year, performing the most extraordinary +sea race on record, the three ships arriving in London +within a few hours of each other. Several are now +loading and two or three are already off—beautiful +ships, reminding one of fine old sailing days of <span class='ships'>Dido</span>, +which class of ship they greatly resemble.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 7.</div> + +<p>On June 7, steamed down against the tide, and +steered for the Yang-tse-Kiang.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 9.</div> + +<p>Having picked up a pilot off Gützlaff Island, we +came to in the evening off Woosung, doubtful +whether, with our draught, 20 feet 2 inches, we could +proceed over the bar.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">[142]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 10.</div> + +<p>Having transported some of the guns forward, we +crossed the bar and steamed up to Shanghai.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Shanghai.</div> + +<p>Little like the place we took possession of twenty-five +years ago. It is difficult to recognise the Chinese +element at all in this great commercial port; even the +pilots are European. The buildings, roads, carriages, +consular flags, merchant steamers, as well as those +vessels propelled by rope and canvas, all tend to hide +from sight that Shanghai still belongs to China. +French, American, and Prussian men-of-war are here. +No saluting on account of close quarters.</p> + +<p>Landed in afternoon; kindly taken in by George +Fitzroy and his wife, having known him from the time +he was of the same age as a sweet little girl resembling +what he was. The comfort and quiet of this place is +what I wanted. Mrs. Fitzroy is a charming person. +Although requiring quiet, had not time to frame +an excuse before I found myself engaged to dine +with Mr. Winchester, the Consul, to meet Sir Rutherford +Alcock, who is here making his annual tour of +visits to the Consulates at the Treaty Ports; with +him are Mr. Conolly (very tall) and Major Crossman +of the Royal Engineers, employed by Government +to inspect and report on all buildings within its +jurisdiction, naval, consulate, colonial, or military; also +my old friend Wade, once of 98th, perhaps the most +efficient scholar and interpreter in China.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Flag in +<span class='ships'>Rattler</span>, +June 11.</div> + +<p>A court-martial detained the <span class='ships'>Pearl</span> and <span class='ships'>Rattler</span> +(in charge of station). <span class='ships'>Argus</span> also here, attending +on the Minister, with a new commander just appointed +in Hallowes.</p> + +<p><span class='ships'>Algerine</span>, with a smart little lieutenant, Domville, +will proceed south as soon as her commander is clear +of the doctor. We have also <span class='ships'>Acorn</span>, hospital ship, +Mr. Roe in charge, an intelligent surgeon.</p> + +<figure class='figcenter' id='i_142'> + <a href='images/i_142.jpg'><img class='h100' src='images/i_142-t.jpg' alt=''></a> + <figcaption>Map—Eastern Archipelago</figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">[143]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 13.</div> + +<p>Although not well enough to enjoy dinner at +Consulate on Tuesday, was pleased at meeting Sir +Rutherford Alcock, when we arranged for my visit +to Peking.</p> + +<p>We have a coal depot and store-houses here, away +from any river frontage, and as inconveniently situated +as a place of the sort could be. An advantageous +sale, as well as purchase of a more suitable site, might +now be made, but the Admiral is not invested with +the necessary power.</p> + +<p>The Vice-Consul, Mr. John Markham, has promised +me some good shooting, three days’ journey +from this, in the proper season, after September. +Heard of the failure of the house of Dent and Co. +Independent of the ruin of so many poorer people, +that of John Dent causes universal sympathy and +regret.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Flag in +<span class='ships'>Manila</span>, +June 15.</div> + +<p>Shifted flag from <span class='ships'>Rattler</span> on board <span class='ships'>Manila</span>. At +noon sailed, having +written the Commodore +of my intention to go to +Nagasaki, which may +reach Hong-Kong in +time to save his going +to Shanghai. Yesterday +the Fitzroys had a dinner +party, including the +Minister, the <i lang='fr'>attaché</i>, +Conolly, Wade, and +Commander Swan. +Birds’-nest soup.</p> + +<figure class='figleft' id='i_143'> + <img class='v50' src='images/i_143.jpg' alt=''> + <figcaption>Sir Rutherford Alcock.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Had conversation +with Sir Rutherford as +to the next steps towards +the suppression of piracy. We agreed that +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">[144]</span>the disarming, as far as heavy guns were concerned, +of all traders was necessary. He thought the +Chinese Government were sincere in their expressed +wish to put it down. The promised co-operation +with other European Powers is necessary to prevent +jealousies. In searching junks for guns the presence +of a responsible Chinese authority necessary. Respectable +interpreters should be found for our cruisers.</p> + +<p>After I have consulted with my brother Admirals +of France and United States, Russia, Prussia and +Netherlands too, if I can get them, intend to address +Sir Rutherford on the subject, and get them to do +likewise to their respective Ministers. Sir Rutherford +agreed with me that the small Portuguese settlement +of Macao was a nuisance—the haunt of pirates: the +centre of that diabolical trade in kidnapped coolies, +worse in its features than the traffic in slaves. Besides, +the Portuguese have no legal right to Macao.</p> + +<p>To enjoy a visit to Peking one should go up about +the middle of September, so as to have a walk on the +hills where all the Foreign Ministers reside during the +hottest of weather, returning to Pekin the last week +in that month. Mr. Conolly seemed to think that +he could easily obtain some of the crossoptalon, the +species of pheasant so coveted by Lord de Grey.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Nagasaki, +June 18.</div> + +<p>Entered the deep bay which forms the beautiful +harbour of Nagasaki. Feeling still invalidy, took +advantage of a lull to land in a boat brought off from +shore by Mr. Alt, and proceeded at once to his +prettily-situated residence high up on the side of a +hill. Flag was shifted to <span class='ships'>Pelorus</span>.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Flag in +<span class='ships'>Pelorus</span>, +June 30.</div> + +<p>On 24th the weather held up and we formed a riding +party of six—Haswell, Risk, Lindau, Norton, Alt, and +self—and landed where the ponies had been sent, and +rode to the village of Tokito. Nothing can be prettier +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[145]</span>than the scenery, while every available flat was under +cultivation, chiefly padi; the fields, with their mud +banks, were small, but the irrigation perfect. Natives +simple and civil to a degree. The village, prettily +situated on the bank of what appeared to be an +inland sea, was inhabited by fishermen. Our ponies +were entire and savage, kicking each other whenever +opportunity offered; roads not much near Nagasaki, +but particularly good when we got within Prince of +Omera’s territory.</p> + +<p>Risk led the way on a pulling pony, much against +his will. On our return, tide being out and boat +unable to come up to the spot at which we disembarked, +we rode home through the town, the most +curious feature of the ride being the facility with which +the ponies travelled up and down a steep flight of +stone steps.</p> + +<p>Had one short afternoon in the china and curio +shops. Market in everything spoilt since the influx +of Europeans; prices higher, and china, particularly +that called the egg china, much inferior to what +I had formerly received from here. Mr. Lindau +gave me a magnificent specimen of the teredo or +borer—the largest I have seen.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Flag in +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, +June 26.</div> + +<p>On the 26th <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> arrived, having the Commodore +on board on leave. Shifted flag. The pending +troubles in Japan appear to have excited the Saimonirai +to renewed animosity against Europeans, and +it became necessary to restrict the leave of the men, +and to oblige officers to carry revolvers. I think +my secretary, W. B. Risk, and nephew, Dob Crosbie, +are now alive owing to this precaution; for one +afternoon, returning in company from the native +town of Nagasaki, a two-sworded man, heated by +liquor, threw up his sleeve and was proceeding to +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[146]</span>draw his sword, when Risk’s revolver made its +appearance, and the Saimonirai swaggered past. A +few moments later, a number of Europeans in hot +pursuit of the same man, informed them that he had +cut down some people in the settlement, and the +Portuguese Consul had barely escaped with his life.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Flag in +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>. +Inland +Sea.</div> + +<p>4 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Weighed; dirty weather. So left the +pretty scenery to keep for some more auspicious day. +Made for Spex Straits, through which passage nothing +can be prettier, but Japan is a new and interesting +country, with—apparently—everything within itself, +while the wants of the natives are few, and all appear +happy and contented; a state of things to which the +boasted superiority and civilisation of the European +will speedily put an end.</p> + +<p>Beautiful pasture appeared on most of the hills, +but beyond a few bullocks and buffaloes as beasts +of burthen, and for agricultural purposes, cattle are +not required by these simple people. They look +strong and healthy, but eat no meat.</p> + +<p>On emerging from these narrow and winding +Straits, in which there is depth of water for the +largest ships, we made the entrance to the Inland Sea +through the Straits of Shimonoseki; the rain kept +off, and the sea without a ripple, the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> made +light work. As we entered the Straits, in addition to +the ever-changing scene of hills and valleys, wood +and pasture, coves, inlets, and snug anchorages, the +scent of flowers was wafted off.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 1.</div> + +<p>Daylight, got under weigh from off Kokura and +steamed through the Straits; a strong tide against +us gave time to enjoy the scenery and examine the +numerous curious-looking trading vessels, arriving, +departing, and at anchor off the town of Shimonoseki. +After passing these we came to the dismantled +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[147]</span>batteries which Chioshiu, the Prince of +Nagato, considered strong enough to guard the +Inland Sea against all foreigners, but which in 1863 +Admiral Kuper, assisted by the French, proved to +the contrary, and by treaty afterwards stipulated that +the fortifications should not be rebuilt, an agreement +which has been strictly adhered to. After +passing the Straits and the weather continuing dirty +we ran for the island of Hime Sima, and came to +off a large fishing village.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Inland +Sea, +July 2.</div> + +<p>Weighed at 4.30 and steered to the eastward +through this beautiful Inland Sea, altering course +occasionally as we threaded our way between the +islands, bringing up in the afternoon on the south +side of Cape Kadzitoi, a snug anchorage, near a fishing +village, but the boats had not come in. Tried +our seine on a sandy part of the beach, but without +success. Natives venturing alongside and afterwards +on board with much coquetting,—simple, quiet, good +sort of people. Got a pretty bivalve and a helix that +must have been washed from the land by the rains; +with more time some fine shells might be collected.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 3.</div> + +<p>4.30.—Weighed and stood to the eastward, passing +islands on both sides with all the appearance of a +pretty, moving panorama—water perfectly smooth. +Numerous native boats about, some fishing, while +others were under their grotesque but picturesque +sails.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 4.</div> + +<p>4.30 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Weighed. Fine weather. Sun shining, +it being just before the time of high water, met the +last of the flood, and passed through the Naruto +(Japanese for gate of the sea), ran alongshore to the +S.E. Coming into the open we met a strong breeze +and head sea. By the morning we had again run +into fine weather.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">[148]</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">Yokohama +to +Yedo, +July 5.</div> + +<p>At 4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> we came to in Yokohama, but on +receiving a letter from Sir Harry Parkes, inviting +self and three friends to Yedo, weighed again and +ran the distance to Yedo, 15 miles, in an hour and +five minutes. The French +admiral, Rose, in the +<span class='ships'>Guerinere</span>, had saluted my +flag as soon as they could +well make it out. <span class='ships'>Perseus</span> +returned, <span class='ships'>Basilisk</span> and two +gunboats in the anchorage. +Commander Stevens ill +on shore in hospital. +Several men-of-war of +various descriptions, +wearing the Government +flag of the Tycoon, or +more properly Shogoon, +which I trust we shall +have the means of licking into shape. The British +Government well represented in Sir Harry Parkes, +who appears to be very properly and prettily mated, +with three children here and two at home, one of +those here a fine and handsome boy, same age as my +Colin.</p> + +<figure class='figleft' id='i_148'> + <img class='v50' src='images/i_148.jpg' alt=''> + <figcaption>Harry Parkes.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<div class="sidenote">Yedo, +July 10.</div> + +<p>Yesterday was fixed for our visit to the Minister +for Foreign Affairs, an office lately decided upon, +at the instigation of Sir Harry. We formed a +respectable <i lang='fr'>cortège</i>. The Minister with his staff of +three, Commodore, Secretary, Flag-Lieutenant and +self. Orders—cocked hats and side arms. We +were all well mounted, escorted by our guard of +eight lancers, two of whom preceded. The rear +of all was brought up by a native guard, mounted +on disreputable-looking ponies. Notice had been +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">[149]</span>given of our intended visit, and the usual curiosity +exhibited. Our route to the castle lay through some +three miles of town. We were properly received. +Guards in the entrance kneeling. In the audience +chamber table and chairs to suit such visitors +provided. Tea, tobacco, saki, pipes and sweetmeats.</p> + +<p>Conversation commenced, as in all civilised places, +about the weather; then, naval matters, site for +the buildings, for the instructing officer to live in, +assurances of good feeling, etc., during which a couple +of hours slipped away, when we returned as we came.</p> + +<p>Was struck with the ease and gentleman-like +bearing of these Japanese officials. Their costume +dark, and nothing imposing about it, as in case of +the Chinese. Hearing that I was about to return +to Yokohama, my visit was returned this morning +by the minister and officials connected with the +Naval Department.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Yedo, +July 11.</div> + +<p>We had another ride yesterday, as we have had +each day, through this wonderful and interesting +city. We rode to the bridge, from which distances +to all parts of the kingdom are reckoned, by the +outer mole, through such pretty scenery of water, +green banks and trees, that after having made a +tour of some five-and-twenty miles, it was difficult +to believe that we had never been outside the town +of Yedo. During the day the following little event +unfortunately occurred:—</p> + +<p>The minister is not allowed to move without +being followed by a dozen of these ragamuffin +guards, which the Japanese Government maintain +are necessary for his protection, but which are +nothing more than mounted spies—now and then, +when we were trotting, one of these fellows would +pretend to get excited and dash past the minister. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">[150]</span>Each day some of them had been checked and ordered +back to their places in the rear; but yesterday one +of them, whether from over-excitement or impudence +is not known, dashed past me, and was stopped by +Sir Harry Parkes, who applied the crop of a heavy +hunting whip across his shoulders and held the same +over the head of the officer or man in charge, +threatening to serve him out also if he did not +keep his men in better order. Sir Harry then made +one or two mounted orderlies turn the whole native +squad of twelve into a side road; one that led to +the inner route. They scampered off, a ridiculous +and ignominious retreat.</p> + +<p>However, before we got home, we saw four +following, but at so respectable a distance that a +looker-on could not have discovered that we were +the objects of their observation. The only pity was, +that the minister did not leave the dirty work of +inflicting the chastisement to one of the orderlies +or one of his staff, who all looked as if they would +have liked the fun.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Yokohama, +July 22.</div> + +<p>At sea in the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, <span class='ships'>Serpent</span>, surveying vessel, +Captain Bullock, in company. Sir Harry Parkes to +follow in <span class='ships'>Basilisk</span>. Our object to meet at Hakodadi, +then proceed north and to the West Coast and decide +on the best port for trading purposes. Harbour, +with calls to make, visitors to receive, exercise to take, +curio shops, etc., is not the place to keep up a journal. +After six days at Yedo, partaking of the hospitality +of Sir Harry and Lady Parkes, the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> arrived +and took us back to Yokohama. I was promptly +called on by the French Admiral Rose, one of the +most agreeable of Frenchmen, his chief of staff, +Flag-Lieutenant, and all appeared to be of same +stamp.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">[151]</span></p> + +<p>I visited Monsieur Leon Roches, Minister Plenipotentiary, +on whom, I was informed, I ought to +call; likewise a good fellow, and who appeared to be, +as described by his countryman Rose, more of the +Zouave Colonel than the Diplomatist. There is more +to see and be amused with in Yokohama than at most +places. The Club is well managed by a ci-devant +marine officer, W. H. Smith, but that which makes +the society and place most agreeable is the presence +of the 2nd Battalion of the 9th (Norfolk Regiment), +commanded by Colonel Knox. After having given me +a grand entertainment (proper word, I believe) we were +made honorary members of their mess. Then a party +was formed to visit the statue of “Daibootz,” a +Great Bhudda. We were four sailors, with eight from +the garrison, the distance about 15 miles. Ponies +were kindly lent to most of us, Mr. W. Davison, +P. and O. Agent, mounting me.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 24.</div> + +<p>We got away at 7.30. Most of the journey was +performed Indian file, one of the officers of 9th, +well acquainted with the roads, leading the way; but +what made the single file more necessary was the +viciousness of the Japanese ponies, who obstinately +refused every attempt on our part to get them to +associate with one another; a stamp, a scream, and a +kick follow in quick succession, if you are for a +moment thrown off your guard by the beauty of +the surrounding scenery, which for constant variety +I never saw equalled.</p> + +<p>About three hours brought us to the once +celebrated (in Japanese annals) city, now village, of +Kama Kura, passing through which, and by the +entrances to grounds surrounding sacred temples, we +came to the end of a straight bit of road where a path +turns off abruptly to the right, leading to the famous +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">[152]</span>bronze statue, but here we dismounted to examine +the spot and have again described to us the cruel +murder which took place in 1864 of two fine young +fellows of the 20th Regiment, Major Baldwin and +Lieutenant Bird, who were cut down by some +fanatical Yakonie, while returning from a visit to +the Great Bhudda.</p> + +<p>The assassins were eventually executed in front +of the English camp; one of them requesting to +chaunt a song before being executed, prided himself +on what he had done and would do again if he lived, +and cautioned his countrymen that the foreigner would +take the country from them. Had this fellow died +fighting he might have been a patriot; as it was, he +and another committed a most dastardly murder on +two unarmed gentlemen by lying in ambush and +striking behind.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">[153]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXXVIII"> + CHAPTER LXXXVIII + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Daibootz</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1867. +July 24.</div> + +<p>We dismounted when near the statue, and, leaving +our ponies, entered a shrubbery by a path which, +taking a turn to the left, brought us suddenly, at the +distance of about 100 yards, in front of Daibootz +himself. It is a huge and imposing spectacle, built, +not cast, of sundry pieces of bronze, but so beautifully +put together that joints are imperceptible at +first from the outside. It is only on going inside +that you see how it was riveted, in much the same +way as we should (forgive the comparison) a huge +boiler. The inside, too, has been desecrated by the +usual number of Saxon names.</p> + +<p>Several of our military friends, who had previously +seen this gigantic statue, advised our not taking our +eyes from the ground until close up to it, but that +is a mistake; you are astonished at the size, but it is +only at a distance you see the beautiful proportions of +the whole figure. The rising ground and green foliage +at the back add much to the effect, and the best view +is that which the people who erected it intended you +should have, by the turn given to the path when it +first appears in view.</p> + +<p>On our way back we visited the Temple of Hakiman, +the largest of the hundred in the neighbourhood. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">[154]</span>It is curious and handsome. The site, too, +as in all the temples of both China and Japan, is well +chosen for its picturesque situation, as well as for the +view to be obtained from it. But these temples are +the work of men’s hands, and not to be compared +with the beautiful scenery through which we +afterwards passed on our return home, by another +route.</p> + +<p>About noon we arrived at the village of Kanasawa, +situated on the edge of a circular and nearly land-locked +bay of the same name. At one of the clean +and comfortable tea-houses we found ready a most +excellent luncheon, sent early and provided by the +messman of the 9th, to which ample justice was done +by twelve hungry men: a siesta afterwards and a +ride home in the cool of the evening.</p> + +<p>A few short years have wrought a wonderful revolution +in the political state of the Japanese and +their feelings towards foreigners. We appear to be +welcomed everywhere by smiles and good temper, +especially by the lower orders.</p> + +<p>The Daimios, who would a few years ago have +put their Shogoon to death for entertaining the idea +of permitting foreigners to trade, are now quarrelling +among themselves as to whose port shall be the +first opened to trade. These feudal chiefs are +tenacious of their independence, and no longer +live with a portion of their family within the +precincts of the castle and moat at Yedo, but +excuse themselves by stating that troublous times +oblige them to keep their retainers with them and +ready.</p> + +<p>They seem to be ignorant of the fact that nothing +will tend more to sap and explode the whole feudal +system than the introduction of the foreigner with +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">[155]</span>our free notions, although differing materially from +one another in our ideas of freedom, yet all tending +to undermine a system similar to our ancient +feudalism.</p> + +<p>The United States, with their prohibitive restrictions +on commerce and despotic governments, are +the loudest in their call for Free Trade, and were the +first to compel the Japanese to open their ports to +the foreigner. France, that “grand nation,” governed +by force of arms, will allow herself to be second to +none in free intercourse with the Japanese. Holland +no longer eats dirt to be allowed to monopolise the +whole trade; and, unable to compete with other +nations in free notions of commerce, is fast retiring +from the Japanese waters. Imperial Russia seems +afraid of contamination with any traders. England, +I believe, while she feels the hardship of enforcing +our trade on these primitive and would-be exclusive +people, is obliged to go with the stream, and as yet +enjoys two-thirds of the whole commerce. Certain +ports are open, and carrying on a thriving trade, and +others are to be opened in January 1868.</p> + +<p>The apple of discord has been thrown among +these warlike Daimios, who, finding that their whole +strength united can no longer keep out the foreigner, +are likely to divide and quarrel among themselves. +Several of these princes are far more powerful than +the Tycoon himself, but the Tycoon is nominally the +head of the Government, and each quarrel among the +Daimios adds to his strength. The Tycoon is now at +Osaka, ready to put down any single-handed Daimio, +some of whom have threatened hostilities, fancying +themselves aggrieved in not having been sufficiently +consulted in the selection of the Treaty Ports: whether +matters are to pass quietly on, time only will determine.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">[156]</span></p> + +<p>As yet, beyond the visit I paid to the Minister for +Foreign Affairs, I have seen none of their great men. +The French, who, through their Minister, it is said, +have got contracts for building docks and clothing +the army for the Tycoon, have invested large sums of +money in the country, so much so, that in case of civil +war their interest will be to support the Tycoon, and +they would persuade him that by a powerful army alone +can he hope to govern and put down the turbulent +chiefs. <em>Our</em> advice is to get up a respectable navy +and make timely concessions. With their splendid +harbours, mineral wealth, and vast resources, the +Japanese ought to become a great maritime nation; +while, beyond working artillery for their batteries, +their soldiers will only weaken their resources and +cut one another’s throats. What different views +different people take!</p> + +<p>But to return to where the journal places us at sea +after leaving Yokohama.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Flag in +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, +July 22.</div> + +<p><span class='ships'>Serpent</span> led the way into Sendai Bay; she having +communicated with some native fishermen found no +safe entrance into the inner bay of Matsu Sima; so, +to obtain protection from an easterly gale, we stood +out again and found our way to the northward of an +island, for which, as yet, we have no name, and stood +on until we gradually shoaled our water to four +fathoms, beyond which we did not venture, and came +to for the night, perfectly secure against any wind.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 23.</div> + +<p>Weighed at 8.30 and followed the <span class='ships'>Serpent</span> round +Sendai Bay, when I signalled her to pass through an +inviting-looking passage formed by the mainland and +Kingkasan or Gold Island. I was so struck with +the beauty of country, the cultivation and apparent +civilisation, that we determined on landing, and came +to for the night. On the left the hills had been +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">[157]</span>cleared and a number of brood mares, with their foals, +were seen in different directions. On the right was +a beautifully wooded island, with herds of deer feeding +in the cleared spaces. Guns were immediately +got ready and parties told off for a glorious afternoon’s +sport, and orders sent for the interpreter to +get permission from certain houses we saw peeping +through the trees.</p> + +<p>Our messenger was forestalled by the going on +board the <span class='ships'>Serpent</span> of a priest who informed them +that the island was sacred and dedicated to the +Bhuddist God; that the deer were all tame and +never killed, and that not so much as a stone was +ever permitted to be removed; in fact, that any +one attempting to commit such a sacrilege would +surely die. He said there was gold among the +sand on the east side, but that was guarded by a +great serpent. A party went on shore at the +invitation of the priests, and while they were inspecting +the interior of the temple a fine stag walked +in and ate several sheets of white paper from +the hands of the strangers. None of the deer are +ever killed, nor is one allowed to pick up the antlers +they shed, which were seen lying about.</p> + +<p>The Commodore and self landed on the opposite +shore to inspect the more wild-looking horses. These +we found as tame as the deer. They were but ponies, +but some well-shaped mares among them. In climbing +the hills I put up a hen pheasant, and I daresay +there were others. The covert was good, but we had +neither guns nor dogs.</p> + +<p>On returning on board I found the priests, who +had ascertained who I was, waiting to receive me. +They appeared poor, civil and good-tempered, bringing +an offering of small fans, descriptions on paper +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">[158]</span>of their temple and island, also some nasty drink +called saki. They seemed to enjoy some champagne! +Should there ever be hostilities between us I shall +know where to find some good fat venison. We +weighed again before midnight and followed the +<span class='ships'>Serpent</span> to the northward.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Nanbu +Harbour, +July 24.</div> + +<p>10.30.—Made the entrance to Nanbu Harbour, +when <span class='ships'>Serpent</span> led us into as beautiful a haven as can +well be imagined. Land high, bold, and wooded on +both sides. Entrance about half a mile wide. Water, +as signalled from <span class='ships'>Serpent</span>, gradually decreasing from +50 fathoms, but too deep for anchoring for full 3 +miles, and it was not until we had made a turn to the +westward, and were completely land-locked that we +got any soundings with the hand leads. Scenery +such as Rio Harbour would be if the blue mountains +were brought closer.</p> + +<p>We brought up in a snug anchorage in 5 fathoms, +close off a considerable fishing village called Yamaba. +Natives appeared nervous and cautious at first, but +gained confidence when they found the Japanese +officers on board the <span class='ships'>Serpent</span>. A seining party +landed on a low sandy island and caught some small +but sweet fish; some of them had the peculiarity of +not spawning like most fish, but of producing a +number of little plump fish like themselves, about +2 inches long, that swam and cut about as if they +had never been confined!</p> + +<p>On returning on board I found that the head of +the village had sent his small present on board of +stinking salt fish. The gunning party had shot ducks +and seen pheasants, but it was the wrong season: +the natives, of their own accord, never disturbing the +game between the months of March and September. +Had we given permission, our decks would have +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">[159]</span>been crowded with the villagers from morning till +night, but we allowed them on board only occasionally +for an hour.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Nanbu +Harbour, +Japan, +July 25.</div> + +<p>Before I was up a present of saki in a neatly +japanned little tub, two parcels of the dried sea-slug +or <i lang='fr'>bêche de mer</i>, done up in paper bags on a japanned +tray, were brought off by the principal traders of the +place. Mr. Aston came from the <span class='ships'>Serpent</span> to interpret; +they smoked their pipes. I gave them a +couple of small bottles of eau-de-Cologne, and wrote +my name on their fans; they went away delighted.</p> + +<p>Suttie, who had been on shore early, shot a fine +swan, and Pusey had killed an animal the doctor +pronounced to be a fennec; it was very savage, +and showed fight with the famous dog Carlo, after +having been badly wounded; it had a small foxy +head, a short brush, and hair long, like some Scotch +terriers. He was not sweet!</p> + +<p>Leaving the <span class='ships'>Serpent</span> to sound round this splendid +harbour, particularly one of refuge should a vessel be +caught in those gales so prevalent on this coast in +winter months, at 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> we cleared from the +numerous native boats and steamed out of the +harbour. Weather and climate much the same as in +our own dear isle at this time of year.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Hakodadi, +July 26.</div> + +<p>In the Straits of Sangar we met a strong westerly +breeze, and that, with a lee set, obliged us to get +steam up in the other two boilers. We came to in +Hakodadi Harbour. Found a whole fleet of Japanese +junks with but few European vessels. There is +not much to attract in the town, shops containing +nothing but what was imported. A fishing-party was +immediately formed to start on the morrow for the +Lake Cuoma, situated beyond the hills that rise from +the plain. On the north side of the harbour, at a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">[160]</span>distance of about 20 miles, a river entering the +sea on the east side was said to be full of salmon and +trout.</p> + +<p>The European residents were particularly kind in +providing us with ponies, while Mr. Deas most good-naturedly +offered to accompany us. Half a dozen pack +ponies were provided to carry on our commissariat and +a change of clothes; these were to have started some +hours in advance, but the usual mistakes were made +of not equally dividing the packages, and after landing, +beer cases had to be opened and repacked, smaller +loads being more conveniently balanced on the packs.</p> + +<p>It was a little after noon that our party of +seven, in addition to servants, got fairly under +weigh. We enjoyed our ride along the shores of the +harbour, and then on the plain, which almost imperceptibly +begins to rise towards the mountains, +over which our route lay.</p> + +<p>The Commodore and self were properly mounted +on the steadiest of the ponies, although mine, +“Punch,” would allow none to pass him. Risk, +with his usual luck, was on a runaway; Atkinson, +who had but once before been in a saddle, was on +an amorous pony that endeavoured to get at every +herd of brood mares, of which there were many +feeding on the plain, and at last got into difficulties +by meeting two mares and a foal just as +they were crossing the road from their straw-yard. +A scream and a fight; one horse was kicked clean +over, while the other two pawed and bit each other +savagely.</p> + +<p>The youngster got out of the fray unhurt; then +there was a chevy over the plain to separate the combatants +and catch the runaway! As we approached +the high land we got enveloped in mist and rain, and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">[161]</span>were obliged to abandon a short cut Mr. Deas was +going to take us and return to the beaten track. +The road was tortuous and slippery; numerous +rivulets crossed by rickety planks, but these extraordinary +ponies scampered along considerably faster +than I liked or could help, without a fall, although +with frequent slips of a yard or two.</p> + +<figure class='figcenter' id='i_161'> + <img class='h100' src='images/i_161.jpg' alt=''> + <p>From a Sketch by Commodore Jones, 1867.</p> + <figcaption>Crossing a River in Japan.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>On arriving at the top of a steep ridge, which +showed like a gap in the mountain, the mist held up +and gave us a view of the plain we had traversed, +with Hakodadi and the sea in the background, +which has not been inaptly compared to Gibraltar, +as seen from Spain. On the other side we have a +view of the lake, with a volcanic mountain in the +distance smoking.</p> + +<p>We had started too late to reach the fishing +stream, so pushed on to a tea-house on the north +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">[162]</span>side of the lake: clean and comfortable; here we +did ample justice to our picnic dinner and enjoyed +ourselves, as I fancy only sailors can; at least we do +not get enough of this sort of life to make us indifferent +to its (to me) many charms!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 27.</div> + +<p>The next morning we started for another of these +comfortable and convenient tea-houses, situated on the +shore of Volcano Bay, near the mouth of the Salmon +River, the sportsmen intending to dismount some +4 miles above and fish their way down. Luckily, +the party who led did not know the intended spot, +and continued on until they reached the house at +which we intended to rest. This brought the whole +party on, when it was ascertained that we were two +months too early for salmon, and there was not a trout +left above 3 inches long. In the evening our party was +increased by Lieut. Rose and Mr. Read of the <span class='ships'>Serpent</span>.</p> + +<p>The scarcity of fish in no way interfered with our +enjoyment. We were all early in the saddle. Started +on our return by 9 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>, a lovely and refreshing morning +with a 30-mile ride before us, but as we got on to +the plain on the other side the wind got up and the +rain came down as it can in this country. But the +comforts of home on board with a warm bath made +the rain only another variety in our fun.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 29.</div> + +<p>We found a French man-of-war, <span class='ships'>La Place</span>, from +Yokohama, probably sent to see what we were after. +She landed two ugly priests, anxious to commence +their work of mischief. The Russian gunboat +<span class='ships'>Garnastai</span>, commanded by a fine fellow, Count +Lütkee, his mother English, also from Yokohama, on +his way north. I had to receive visits from the +Governor and Lieutenant-Governor—two gentleman-like, +agreeable fellows.</p> + +<p>Landed with Commodore to visit Mr. Alfred +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">[163]</span>Howard and look at his curios. A nice collection of +bronzes as well as pictures and small ivories. A +small collection of shells!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 30.</div> + +<p>After having received and paid above visits and +invited Mr. Mitford of the Legation to come with +us, at 5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> weighed, with the intention of inspecting +the coal-mines, said to be of good quality, at +Twanai, and then rejoining the Minister at Nigata: +the necessity of economising fuel not permitting +<span class='ships'>Serpent</span> and <span class='ships'>Basilisk</span> accompanying us.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Twanai, +July 31.</div> + +<p>As we stood into the bay, at the bottom of which +Captain Bullock had marked as about the spot we +should find Twanai, we were puzzled at the number +of villages, but after stopping and firing a gun he +observed a boat coming out from the village we least +expected, and Mitford soon recognised his friend +Mr. Gower, the gentleman who had undertaken the +contract from the Tycoon Government to work the +coal-mine so many years. We found no shelter near +the village.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Yesso +Island.</div> + +<p>Opposite the valley up which the principal mine +is situated, the coast is rocky, but the season being +fine we came to in 10 fathoms off the village of +Tomari, where Mr. Gower resided for the present. +The town and harbour of Twanai, to which the coal, +when worked, must be sent for re-shipment, is seven +miles further to the eastward: a bar harbour, but +with a snug anchorage, protected by a sand-bank; +with six or seven fathoms inside.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">[164]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXXIX"> + CHAPTER LXXXIX + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The China Command</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1867. +Flag in +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, +July 31.</div> + +<p>We had heard much of the bears in this island of +Yesso, and Mr. Gower was pressed for information. +There were plenty of them, and two had been down +for several nights running to rob a hut on the beach, +only half a mile distant from the village, of salt fish.</p> + +<p>Lieutenant Pusey, a keen sportsman, having obtained +a guide, undertook to lie in wait for these +bears; he found their traces, the marks where they had +removed the thatch to get at the fish, and patiently +remained until daylight, but Bruin did not put in an +appearance. Pusey was, however, sanguine enough to +try again the following night, with same success: the +whole country round was either covered by forest or +was one mass of rank vegetation over six feet high, +from which it would have been impossible to have +dislodged any game.</p> + +<p>During the two days we allowed ourselves, weather +permitting, to remain, one was to be devoted to a ride +to Juranai, where we were to see the aborigines, the +other to visit the coal-mines.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 1.</div> + +<p>We landed, a party of six, and proceeded to +Gower’s house, where he and his friends, the Japanese +officers, had provided ponies. Another party had +gone to haul the seine off the mouth of a river two +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">[165]</span>miles to the eastward, up which we had heard of +trout and salmon. Our ride, although hot, was an +agreeable one, enlivened by the addition to our +party of Mitford. On arrival we found the +Japanese Governor, a man of no great rank, had +kindly provided a feast at his residence. The +Japanese are proverbial for their cleanliness, and +floors covered with mats. We found this second to +none in that respect, and we voluntarily, before +entering, kicked off our dirty boots. With the +exception of sweetmeats and cakes, a Japanese feast is +a nauseous thing: sea-slugs, stale fish, uncooked ditto, +and scuttle-fish do not suit the English palate.</p> + +<p>We walked afterwards to that part of the village +where the Jonos dwell. They are an extraordinary-looking +race; short and square built, but the great +peculiarity is their shock head of hair, which extends +to their face and body. Their houses were cleaner +than other savages, but that is probably owing to the +force of example set them by the Japanese. They +live chiefly by hunting the bear, which they are +allowed to do under certain restrictions. One is +that the skins are sold to the Government. Each +village has a pet bear which is made much of, but off +which they eventually have a grand feast and consume +much saki.</p> + +<p>The only curio obtained was one presented to +me by the chief—a slip of wood, the size of a large +paper-cutter, but carved on it were the figures of a +Jono and a bear, while between them was a plate of +fish and a bowl of saki. The use of this instrument +was to lift the hair of the upper lip so as to clear the +way for the bowl of saki, which it was essential should +be drank at the feast of the bear. During the +operation of the cutting up and cooking of the pet +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">[166]</span>for the feast, the old women are allowed to howl and +cry.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Friday, +Aug. 1.</div> + +<p>I joined the party to see the coal-mine. Suttie and the +Commodore preferred trying their hand at the salmon, +which were just arriving on the coast.</p> + +<p>An agreeable and pretty ride of two miles along a +valley down which a small rivulet runs, and up which +the tram or railway is being constructed, brought us +to the coal-mine, into which—more to please Mr. +Gower than myself, as nothing can be more uninteresting—I +crept, half-doubled, through mud and +water. After expressing my satisfaction, and taking +a long and patient look at the adjacent hills covered +with timber and brushwood, and rendered still more +interesting to Mr. Gower by the vast seams of coal +underneath, the line of which he seemed to know as +exactly as if the mountain was of crystal, we +wended our way back on foot, collecting several +specimens of the land helix.</p> + +<p>When we got back, a swell from westward had +set the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> rolling, and made us anxious about +the party who had crossed the bar to fish the river. +About 7 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> they were seen coming off, but not +without having been swamped, with the loss of rods +and other gear. A heavy roller filled the boat. +They wisely sat still until the two following waves +had broken over them, and then jumped out and +hauled their boat. They were assisted by the kind +natives, who refused any remuneration for their +trouble. We took leave of our kind and obliging +friend, Mr. Gower, who, after having come on board to +see me off, hurried on shore again to send assistance over +the hills to the missing fishing party. We got under +way at 7 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, and proceeded to the southward +under easy steam.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">[167]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 4.</div> + +<p>Just before sunset we made out the smoke of two +steamers, which proved to be the <span class='ships'>Basilisk</span> and <span class='ships'>Serpent</span>, +preparing to take their departure from Nigata; but +making us out, did not weigh. Captain Bullock +having left with us directions where our boats might +safely cross the bar, they left soon after daylight.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Nigata, +Japan, +Aug. 5.</div> + +<p>Nigata is a large town, situated on the left bank, +about three miles from the mouth. It belongs to the +Tycoon, and but for the insuperable objection to a +bar, and the exposure to all winds from N. to S.W. in +the anchorage outside, it would most likely have been +one of the new Treaty Ports. As it is, it carries on a +large trade with junks.</p> + +<p>The Governor had sent off officers with the usual +compliments, whom we met as we proceeded on +shore. I had left the ship as early as 8.30, fearing +the Governor might have come off to wait upon me +himself, but I believe he had no intention of doing anything +of the sort. The officers we met turned about +and accompanied us, not only to the shore, but never +left us until we were again afloat; they were spies, +but under the happy delusion that we imagined them +to be a guard of honour! However, they did not +molest or interfere.</p> + +<p>Our object was to see the town and shops, and they +took us to them. The town is clean, intersected by +canals, and the population, although naturally anxious +to see the strangers, did not molest us in any way. +On our way back we were requested to visit a rather +imposing temple, but thinking it was an attempt to +get me to call on the Governor, whose duty it was to +wait on me, I passed on. But afterwards, on their +explaining that if I would walk in and partake of +refreshment, the Governor would call on me there, +I went back.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">[168]</span></p> + +<p>Tables and seats had been prepared for us, and +after we had had some tea and fruit, and had waited +about a quarter of an hour, the mob at the entrance +gate was dispersed, and running footmen came in +advance, announcing the Governor’s approach. He +arrived, mounted on a remarkably nice strong pony, +but dismounted at the end of the road and approached +on foot. We, directed by Mitford, rose to receive +him. The usual commonplace conversation took +place as to weather. How old we were, and how +well we all looked; all of which was taken down in +writing, before we took our departure. I was rather +struck with the appearance of the Governor, apparently +superior in intellect to the generality of his +countrymen. Good-looking, and said he was fifty.</p> + +<p>We got under way at 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, intending, according +to agreement with Sir Harry Parkes, to go to +Ongi, a small fishing village near the south end of +the Island of Sado, about thirty miles; but on nearing +the land, we made out our two consorts at anchor +off a village, which proved to be Oda. We came to +with them and remained for the night.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 6.</div> + +<p>Weighed together at 5 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>, Sir Harry having +made arrangements to meet the Governor at Ongi, a +small bay on the south-west side, and then to visit the +gold and silver mines, some five miles distant, on +foot. I preferred stopping at Ongi, having heard of +hares and pheasants in abundance.</p> + +<p>We came to in a snug little port, which required +some caution in approaching, but was protected by +rocks sufficiently numerous and high to break the +force of a heavy sea. The favourable reports of game +produced many sportsmen, but the weather being +sultry, vegetation high, and no dogs, I waited the result. +The return was 1 hare, 1 pigeon, 2 ducks, and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">[169]</span>8 pheasants; total, 12. We weighed as soon as they +came on board, and stood out under easy steam.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Manao, +Aug. 7.</div> + +<p>8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Came to in four fathoms off Manao. +Found a steamer with the Daimio Kaga’s flag flying. +Hitherto we had visited only such ports as belonged +to the Tycoon. We were now in that of one of +these feudal princes. Whether this will be the treaty +port to be opened on the west coast, some one besides +the Tycoon will have to be consulted.</p> + +<p>About midday <span class='ships'>Basilisk</span> and <span class='ships'>Serpent</span> arrived. The +authorities on shore had sent off to the capital notice +of the intended visit of our Minister. Prince Kaga +had not hitherto shown any friendly disposition +towards foreigners. There is no doubt but that this, +his Port of Manao, is the best situated and the finest +harbour on the west coast. The other port of +Oösima, and next best harbour, about 100 miles to +the southward, is likewise a Daimio’s port, but too +near to Osaka. Nigata would do well if no vessels +larger than junks wanted to enter the river: no +safe anchorage outside. The Tycoon has faithfully +promised to open whatever port on the west coast +we may decide on.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 9.</div> + +<p>It was on the morning of the third day, Friday +9th, that a dozen of the Daimio’s officers arrived, and +immediately waited on Sir Harry Parkes on board +the <span class='ships'>Basilisk</span>. The interview was long, but not +satisfactory. They were satisfied with what trade +they had, and did not wish theirs to be made a +treaty port. They were very civil and polite. Their +Daimio was ill, and on that account could receive no +one: no encouragement. But I have a great idea +that our Minister will carry his point, although I do +not see my way. Nothing would unite these Damios +so soon as an attempt on the part of the Tycoon to +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">[170]</span>coerce one of them; besides, the Tycoon has had a +lesson. Seaton and Mitford were sent overland to +Osaka to wait there our arrival: a perilous journey +I should think. At 5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> we got under way for +Nagasti, to be followed by <span class='ships'>Basilisk</span>. <span class='ships'>Serpent</span> left to +survey the harbour.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Nagasaki, +Aug. 12.</div> + +<p>On arrival in Nagasaki Harbour, heard of the +cruel murder of two +seaman of the <span class='ships'>Icarus</span>, +Lord Charles Scott. +The poor fellows had +fallen asleep outside a +tea-house, when some +passing Yakomins +slashed their bodies +with their two-handed +swords, almost cutting +them in two. My first +step was to communicate +the facts to the +Hon. Minister in Japan, +in the hope that the +crime might be traced +to its source. Suspicion fell on some of Prince +Tosa’s retainers.</p> + +<figure class='figleft' id='i_170'> + <img class='v50' src='images/i_170.jpg' alt=''> + <figcaption>Charlie Scott.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Whilst here we visited a Daimio, the Prince of +Awa. We were received in a magnificent feudal +castle, with drawbridges, moats, etc. I was accompanied +by two or three members of the Legation, +Suttie, Secretary and Flag-Lieutenant. On first +arrival our presents were sent in, and then we were +presented to the Prince. A dinner followed; the +Prince took the head of the table; his guests were +arranged according to rank. Half-way down, the +table was depressed some feet below the level of the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">[171]</span>upper table, and here his subordinate officers were +entertained, illustrating the “below the salt” of our +feudal times. The officer plied us with warm saki, +but its effects showed sooner on our tempters than on +ourselves.</p> + +<p>Dinner was followed by a speech from the Daimio, +who welcomed us to his territory, and, pointing to a +recess full of Japanese curios, expressed a hope we +would take with us some specimens of the manufactures +of the country, as indeed we did, none leaving +without a present.</p> + +<p>Then followed Japanese theatricals, which of course +we could not follow. On retiring to rest we found +that a four-poster bed had been rigged up for each +of us. A huge tub of cold water was provided, and +a pint bottle of champagne was on each dressing-table, +the Prince having evidently been informed that such +conditions were essential to the everyday life of an +Englishman.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 1.</div> + +<p>Weighed and stood to the south-east.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 25.</div> + +<p>Came to off entrance to the Peiho.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 26.</div> + +<p>Stood into river, passed Taku Forts, and after the +usual grounding at the bends and fouling of junks +came to for the night.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Peking, +Sept. 27.</div> + +<p>Moored off the British Consulate Tientsin. +Received with the greatest kindness by Sir Rutherford +and Lady Alcock; under their auspices saw much of +Peking, which to the ordinary barbarian is not +allowed.</p> + +<p>Our visit was specially marked by a most enjoyable +riding excursion to the Great Wall of China. +The party consisted of our Minister, Lady Alcock and +her charming daughter, Miss Lowder, Conolly, one of +the Secretaries of our Legation, Risk, Suttie, and +Harry Stephenson. Riding in easy stages, the native +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">[172]</span>servants were always one stage ahead, so that on +arrival, after a refreshing bath, we found a table +arranged with every possible luxury. Striking +almost due north we stopped for the night at Cha-ho. +Thence to the Ming Tombs, approached through an +avenue of animals of colossal proportions, carved in +stone—elephants, camels, and horses; and that they +were not without artistic merit is proved by the fact +that some of our horses whinnied and approached +these stone representations in evident recognition.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Oct.</div> + +<p>We slept that night at Nankow. Next morning rode +to Kou-li-yeng, our halting-place for the night. Next +day to Miyü-hsien, where we had an admirable dinner.</p> + +<p>Ku-pee-Kou, by the Great Wall of China, was the +turning-point for home, visiting on the road Chao-tu-Chiang, +Loo-shan, Niulang-shein, Saw-Chia-tieu and +Semho, our last halting-place before re-entering the +hospitable legation at Peking. We varied the amusement +by an occasional raid on the wild geese and +partridges met with on the road.</p> + +<p>I was much impressed by the evidence of former +splendour and prosperity—temples carved in marble; +baths fed by natural hot springs; all in decay and +covered with dust inches thick, the collection of centuries—so +much so, that names inscribed on the dust, +with dates many years previously, were as sharply +defined as if written yesterday.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 25.</div> + +<p>This delightful visit over we returned to Nagasaki, +calling <i lang='fr'>en route</i> at Cheefoo. A short stay in Japan, +and we went south again, anchoring in Hong Kong +on November 10, when I shifted the flag to <i>Princess +Charlotte</i>. Then to Shanghai, where old memories +and old friends clustered round me: the scene of +many a stirring day in the <span class='ships'>Dido</span>. Again to Japan, and +further cruises on that beautiful and interesting coast.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">[173]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XC"> + CHAPTER XC + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The Outlook for the New Year</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1868. +Hiogo, +Jan. 1.</div> + +<p>Commencement of another year. My flag at the +fore, flying on board <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> in Corvé Bay, near Hiogo. +<span class='ships'>Rodney</span> nearly twelve months in commission, while I +have been nine within the limits of the station, having +assumed the Command-in-Chief at Singapore in March +1867. Thanks to the speed of the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> I have +been enabled to visit all the important points of the +China and Japan part of this extensive station, besides +paying an agreeable month’s visit to Peking and its +neighbourhood. And I hope before leaving this part +of the world to have a second peep at Nankin: four +and twenty years since I was there in <span class='ships'>Dido</span>. The +event for which we have been preparing since my +arrival has been the opening of Osaka, Hiogo, and +other ports for commercial purposes.</p> + +<p>The necessity or advantage of opening these ports +seems doubtful, but they were mentioned in the +former treaty, and all the foreign ministers, however +they may disagree on other points, seem united in +the necessity of teaching the Japanese that treaties +must be respected, and not lightly set aside. Owing +to the political state of affairs in Japan, the weakness +of the Tycoon power, and strength of the Independent +Feudal Chiefs, as well as the uncertainty of the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">[174]</span>strength of two parties styled among themselves the +“Admission” and “Expulsion” parties, it was deemed +advisable to appear before Osaka and Hiogo with an +imposing force. Our Minister, Sir Harry Parkes, +had come from Yokohama in the <span class='ships'>Adventure</span> troopship, +Captain Hickley, with a guard of fifty of the +9th Regiment, besides his twelve mounted policemen +in Lancer costume, and a large staff with the Legation +of Consuls and interpreters in addition to the Attaché. +The Americans made a good display of pennants, +but France, afloat, was represented by one man-of-war, +while their Minister, M. Roches, tried to emulate +our Minister by a guard of marines at Osaka.</p> + +<p>The Tycoon was at Miako endeavouring to carry +on the government, opposed by Prince Satsumali Li +Tosa and other powerful Daimios who had collected +a sufficient number of retainers to threaten the power +of the Tycoon. What their object is has not been +ascertained. Most parties appear to agree as to the +necessity of doing away with one of the two heads. +The Tycoon invites a council of Daimios and expresses +himself willing to be guided by their decision. The +majority of Daimios decline attending this council +and shut themselves up in their castles. The 1st of +January arrives, and the ports of Osaka and Hiogo +are open to foreign trade. Salutes are fired from the +ships-of-war off both ports, and no demonstration or +disturbance takes place.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 6.</div> + +<p>On the 6th <span class='ships'>Basilisk</span> sails with mails for Hong +Kong; <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> for Chusan, to wait me there.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 7.</div> + +<p>On 7th I go over in <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span> to visit and consult +with Minister at Osaka. Land at foreign settlement, +where we find horses to ride (4 miles) to the +Legation. On coming on to the open space that surrounds +the castle, met a number of troops arriving +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">[175]</span>in various and curious costumes. These proved to +be the Tycoon’s guard and retainers, he having +retreated from his castle at Miako; the subsequent +explanation of which was that Satsuma had surrounded +the Mikado’s Palace with his troops, and +thereby was in possession of the Mikado’s person: +representing the seat of government. The Tycoon +stated he had removed his troops at the order of the +Mikado. Mikado is a child, but Satsuma had placed +his own people as the advisers of the crown, and the +Tycoon, too patriotic to shed blood and plunge his +country into civil war, retired to his castle at +Osaka.</p> + +<p>I expect that the Tycoon is not deficient in courage; +among the Japanese I have not seen a man more +princely and determined, a good-looking man, apparently +about thirty years of age. He, I think, is +aware of much discontent among Prince Satsuma’s +followers; their swaggering and overbearing manner +causes them to be hated by the inhabitants; they are +some 300 miles from home, and when food gets +scarce will have to disperse. The Tycoon will “bide +his time,” and eventually be recalled when they +cannot do without him. The foreign ministers +waited on the Tycoon, and received in reply an explanation +worthy of a more civilised nation!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 9.</div> + +<p>On Thursday 9th we were to return to Hiogo by +the <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span>, having had the <span class='ships'>Rodney’s</span> steam launch +sent to the settlement to take us over the bar. +Owing to a continued fall of rain and difficulty in +getting coolies, it was late in the afternoon before we +got away from the Legation. We, a large party, consisting +of Captains Stanhope and Brooker, Mitford, +Attaché, Captain Gibbs, Harry Stephenson, Adolphus +Crosbie, Bradshaw of 9th Regiment, my servant +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">[176]</span>Fuller and others, descended the river in native boats +from a creek at the back of the Legation.</p> + +<p>On arriving at the settlement we found a fresh +breeze from southward and a ripple on the water, +although 2 miles from the mouth, sufficient to +show that the bar would not be quite smooth. In +addition to <span class='ships'>Rodney’s</span> launch we had the steam cutter +of the <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span>, which we took in tow. By the time +we reached the mouth of the river it was too dark to +judge of the state of the bar, although we could +plainly see the white tops of the waves against the +darkness beyond. We could also discern the ships-of-war +at anchor outside.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Corvé +Bay.</div> + +<p>Having a strong ebb tide, stronger perhaps from +the late heavy rains, we pushed on, and in a few +minutes found ourselves plunging into a head sea, +the rollers breaking heavily. We saw at once that +retreat was too late, our only chance being to have +steerage way enough to keep the boat’s head to the +sea, which at every plunge broke angrily into her, +threatening to extinguish the fires. Our only propelling +power lay in steam, as, with the engine in +the boat, no room is left for the oars to work, +only a portion of the crew being sent on such +occasions.</p> + +<p>Besides, we all knew that in case of the boat filling, +the weight of the engine was sufficient to take her +down like a stone. We were not long in casting off +the <span class='ships'>Sylvia’s</span> cutter to take care of herself. We +hoped to find less sea when once across the bar. In +that we were mistaken. In spite of pumps and baling +the water was gaining on us, and as the boat got +heavier it appeared as if each plunge must be the +last. We had, too, the mortification to see that the +current had carried us past the <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span>, and we dared +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">[177]</span>not turn the boat’s head in that direction without +certain destruction from the seas that would inevitably +have broken over her broadside.</p> + +<p>The next few were anxious minutes, until we came +under the lee of <span class='ships'>La Place</span>, French frigate, which +providentially lay just on our line ahead. We were +drenched, bitter cold, and those who were not sea-sick +very hungry. Nothing could equal the kindness +and attentions of Captain Emot and the officers of +<span class='ships'>La Place</span>. To get on board the frigate was out of +the question, although she rigged out her spanker-boom +with a Jacob’s ladder suspended from the end.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Hiogo.</div> + +<p>However, by means of waterproof cases they supplied +us with all we required, even a tin of sardines, +which the natives helped to get rid of, and mulled +wine. Between 10 and 11 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> a lull took place, +and we succeeded in getting to the <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span>, and in the +morning weighed for Hiogo, having first ascertained +that the cutter was safe inside the river.</p> + +<p>We afterwards heard that within a minute of being +cast off she filled with a second sea, but being fitted +with air-tight compartments as a life-boat, she was +sufficiently buoyant to bear the weight of the engine. +By holding up the portion of an awning in the fore +part of the boat they succeeded in getting her head +round, and drifted in again before the wind.</p> + +<p>The following morning Admiral Bell, the American +Commander-in-Chief, attempted to cross the bar in +his twelve-oared barge, which capsized, when himself, +Flag-Lieutenant Read, and ten seamen were drowned. +We sailed in <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> on the 11th; arrived at Yokohama +on 13th.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Yokohama, +Jan. 19.</div> + +<p>On 19th went in <span class='ships'>Firm</span> to visit the Naval Yard +establishment for instruction of Japanese under the +able management of Commander Tracey, assisted by +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">[178]</span>Lieutenant A. K. Wilson and a competent staff, of +an engineer, warrant-officer, and seamen gunners. +The pupils consisted of between seventy and eighty +Japanese lads, all the sons of officers and respectable +people, each lad wearing that distinguishing mark +of rank, two swords. The College was a long, well-arranged +building, with cabin, and bunks like those +on board passenger ships: each cabin containing two +students. Baths, cook-houses, etc., arranged after +their own fashion, but the indoor instruction was +carried on at tables with seats. They had their rigging +and engineer lofts, a section of a frigate’s +maindeck with portholes and guns. This was rendered +necessary, as, although the establishment +bordered on the sea, the water was too shoal to +admit of any man-of-war approaching near enough +to be available for such purposes. They had, however, +a small brigantine moored close by, and boats +to teach them the practical part of a seaman’s work.</p> + +<p>No nation ever went through such changes, and +so great a revolution, although still incomplete, in +so short a time and with so little bloodshed. But +internal dissensions must ensue, and the Saturday +night of our arrival and the greater part of +Sunday fires were blazing in five or six different +parts of the city. This proved to be all property +belonging to Prince Satsuma, who was domineering +it with so high a hand over the Tycoon at +Miako. A steamer of his that attempted to go to +sea was chased and attacked by three of the Tycoon’s +vessels-of-war. Although there did not appear to be +much damage done, it is the beginning of a Civil +War which must decide which is to be the strongest +and ruling power. Much has to be done, and that +strongest of all earthly powers, the majority of the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">[179]</span>people, has not as yet been thought of as having anything +to do with their differences. It will be curious +to watch the progress of events.</p> + +<p>The most influential and dangerous party now +are the ignorant, idle, lazy, two-sworded followers +and retainers of the Daimios and Feudal chiefs—scoundrels +who are alike a curse to their masters as +well as the people. The fires at Yedo were extensive, +and so near to the British Legation that two +young students, a Mr. Easlim, and their guests, +two American gentlemen by name of Hunt, thought +it advisable to clear out. Having deposited their +goods on board the <span class='ships'>Firm</span>, they came to the Naval +Yard establishment for board and lodging.</p> + +<p>We were disturbed just as we were preparing for +dinner by the body of one of the American gentlemen +being borne in on the shoulders of five men, +and badly wounded. He was laid on the floor and +search made, but no wound being discovered, he +was given some hot brandy and water, when it +transpired that his revolver had accidentally gone +off in the pocket of his <em>pants</em>. He sat up and +ate a very good dinner, but blood having been discovered +under his chair, it was thought advisable to +make a further examination on our arrival next day +in the <span class='ships'>Firm</span> at Yokohama.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 21.</div> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 24.</div> + +<p>The English mail having arrived at Yokohama on +20th, we sailed the following day, and arrived off +Osaka on the 24th, in time to cross the bar before +dusk, when I proceeded to the Legation, <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> +going on to Corvé Bay. News had already reached +Osaka of the burnings and doings at Yedo.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 26.</div> + +<p>On 26th took leave of Sir Harry Parkes for +a while; my intention to leave Captain Stanhope of +<span class='ships'>Ocean</span> in charge. The Tycoon’s troops, some 2000 +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">[180]</span>strong, marched this morning for Miako. Reports +of disaffection on part of Satsuma’s followers; most +likely provisions failing.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 27.</div> + +<p>Shifted flag to <span class='ships'>Adventure</span>, and took leave of Japan +for a while. <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> to follow.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 1.</div> + +<p>Arrived at Shanghai. Made arrangements with +regard to the new Naval Yard to be established on +the right bank of Woosung River.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 6.</div> + +<p>Shifted flag to <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Hong +Kong, +Feb. 10.</div> + +<p>Arrived at Hong Kong, 10.40 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> +arrived 2.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> Shifted flag to her. Each +successive mail from northward brought accounts of +the movements of the Civil War. The troops whom +the Tycoon had sent against the disaffected princes +had been met by Satsuma’s followers and dispersed. +The Tycoon, taking fright, had departed for city of +Yedo, leaving his magnificent castle to be burnt. +The Foreign Legations had quitted Osaka the best +way they could, and retired upon Hiogo under the +protection of the ships-of-war. The Tycoon’s want +of courage and retreat greatly disgusted Monsieur +Roches, the French Minister. The French having +embarked large sums in the construction of docks +and other works, were pecuniarily interested in the +stability of the Tycoon’s Government. M. Roches +retired to Yokohama, and would likely have continued +his retreat to Paris, had he not been stopped +by the newly-arrived French Admiral, Monsieur +Ohier.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Japan. +Flag in +<span class='ships'>Rodney</span>.</div> + +<p>Other wavering Princes declared for the Mikado, +in whose name Satsuma, Tosa, Chion, and other +Daimios carried on the war against the Tycoon. +Among them the Prince of Bozin came up from the +westward; his line of march lay through Hiogo, and +skirted the territory which had been allotted and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">[181]</span>already taken possession of by the foreigners. Prince +Bozin’s advanced guard had gone on, and when his +main body came up and were abreast of the Foreign +Settlement, the not uncommon order for all to prostrate +themselves was given. Two French seamen +who were on the road attempted to cross the line of +troops and were charged with spears. In the confusion +the officer in command of Bozin’s troops gave +the order to fire, an order which was immediately +obeyed; but, as in all probability it was the first time +the Japs had ever to fire in earnest, no great damage +was done, but the alarm was sounded: the Minister’s +guard of fifty men belonging to the 9th Regiment +turned out, marines and seamen from our man-of-war +(<span class='ships'>Ocean</span>) hurried on shore.</p> + +<p>Just as the disturbance commenced, Sir Harry +Parkes, with Captain Stanhope, was returning from +a walk, attended by two dismounted men of the +Body Guard. They made for the Consulate across +the open space which had been cleared for the +Foreign Settlement, and afforded capital pot-shots +for the excited Japs, who for a few minutes had it +all their own way; but by the end of that time the +9th were advancing, and in a few minutes afterwards +Parkes was out at the head of his troopers, and +the Japs, in full retreat, throwing away all extra +weight, dispersed towards the hills with the agility +of monkeys. Parkes came up with, and captured, +three brass guns. Two French and one American +had been wounded.</p> + +<p>Nothing could have happened worse or more +inopportunely for the disaffected chiefs, whose last +wish it was to offend the foreigners, while we (the +foreigners) made a very grave affair of the whole +business, demanding ample apologies from the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">[182]</span>Mikado himself, and nothing short of the execution +of the officer who had given the order. All this +was conceded, and eventually carried out.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>Mr. Mitford of the Legation, whose duty it was to +attend the ceremony of Hara-Kari, sent me a description +of it, which is inserted later.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 22.</div> + +<p>Complimented Americans by firing Royal Salute, +anniversary of General Washington’s birth. Flag in +<span class='ships'>Rodney</span>.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 12.</div> + +<p><span class='ships'>Tamar</span> arrived with 10th Regiment for Yokohama.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 18.</div> + +<p>French frigate <span class='ships'>La Place</span> arrived with Admiral +Ohier.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 21.</div> + +<p>United States S.S. <span class='ships'>Hartford</span>, Commodore Gouldisborough, +sailed; cheered him on quitting the station.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 25.</div> + +<p>Weighed under plain sail and ran through the +Lyemoon Pass.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">[183]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XCI"> + CHAPTER XCI + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Hari-Kari</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1868. +March.</div> + +<p>My fair readers, if I have any, are advised to skip +the next twenty pages, which deal with tragedies +upon which I reported officially at the time.</p> + +<p>Mr. Mitford, who was present at the ceremony +of Hari-Kari, sent me the following account. +The officer’s name was Taki Zingaburo. The +ceremony took place on March 2, at 10.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, in +the Temple of Siefukigi, the headquarters of Satsuma’s +troops. The courtyard was filled with soldiers, and +lighted by fires and lanterns. The witnesses were +conducted into a room in the temple, where +Ito Shunski (formerly interpreter on board the +<span class='ships'>Rodney</span>), the provisional Governor of Hiogo, came +soon after, and, having taken down their names, told +them that himself and another officer, on the part +of the Mikado, two of Satsuma’s officers, two of +Choshin’s, and a representative of the Prince of +Bizen, would act as Renshi—sheriffs or witnesses. +Seven were appointed, probably that their numbers +might agree with those of the foreigners.</p> + +<p>After a short delay, they were invited to follow +the Japanese witnesses into the principal hall of the +temple. On the raised platform, immediately in +front of the high altar, was placed a rug of red felt. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">[184]</span>The temple was dimly lighted with tall candles. +The Japanese witnesses took their places on the +left, and the foreigners on the right, of the raised +floor. No other persons were present in the hall.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">April.</div> + +<p>After an interval of a few minutes, Taki Zingaburo, +a stalwart, noble-looking fellow, walked into +the hall, attired in his dress of ceremony, accompanied +by his Kaishaku and three officers in their jimbasri, +or war surcoat. (Kaishaku is one to whom our word +executioner is no equivalent: the office is that of a +gentleman, usually filled by a friend or kinsman or +the condemned. In this instance the Kaishaku was +a pupil of Taki Zingaburo, chosen for his skill in +swordsmanship.) He advanced slowly, with the +Kaishaku on his left, towards the Japanese witnesses +and bowed before them; then, drawing near to the +foreigners, he saluted, with perhaps rather more show +of respect. In each case the salutation was ceremoniously +returned.</p> + +<p>Slowly, and with great dignity, he mounted on +the raised floor, prostrated himself before the high +altar, and then seated himself on the felt carpet with +his back to the altar, the Kaishaku crouching on +his left.</p> + +<p>One of the three attendant officers then came +forward, bearing a tray, on which, wrapped in paper, +lay the dirk. This he handed with a bow to the +condemned man, who received it, reverently raising +it to his head, and placed it in front of himself. +After another profound obeisance, the condemned +man, in a voice of some emotion, and with just +so much hesitation as would be natural to a man +about to make a disagreeable confession, but with no +sign of fear, said, “I, and I alone, unwarrantably gave +the order to fire on the foreigners at Corvé as they +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">[185]</span>tried to escape. For this crime I disembowel myself. +And I beg you who are here present to do me the +honour of witnessing the act.” After delivering this +speech, he allowed his upper garments to slip down +to his girdle—carefully, according to custom, tucking +his sleeves under his knees, that he might die as a +Samarai should, falling forward. Deliberately, with +a steady hand, he took the dirk that lay before +him. For a few seconds he seemed to collect his +thoughts, and then stabbing himself deeply below the +waist on the left side, he drew the dirk slowly to the +right. As the dirk reached the right side, he gave a +slight cut upwards, and then lent forwards, stretching +out his head.</p> + +<p>An expression of pain for the first time crossed +his face, and the Kaishaku, who had been keenly +watching every motion, sprang to his legs, and +poising his sword in the air for a second, with one +stroke severed the head from the body, during a +dead silence. The Kaishaku having wiped his sword, +bowed solemnly to the witnesses and removed the +dirk as a proof of the death of Taki Zingaburo, aged +thirty-two. Ito Shumski and the other representatives +of the Mikado left their places, and advancing +to where the foreigners sat, called on them to witness +that the execution had been faithfully performed.</p> + +<p>The ceremony, to which the place and the hour +gave a most solemn effect, was characterised by that +extreme dignity and punctiliousness which are the +distinctive marks of a Japanese gentleman of rank, +and it is not unimportant to note this fact, because it +carries with it the conviction that the dead man was +the officer who committed the crime and not a substitute. +I am happy to think that Captain Stanhope +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">[186]</span>did what he could to save this man’s life, but he was +in a minority.</p> + +<p>This execution was soon followed by a frightful +tragedy. At Hong Kong, on March 23, I received +a letter from Captain Stanhope of the <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> off +Osaka, informing me that on the 8th the French +corvette <span class='ships'>Dupleix</span> had sent her steam launch, accompanied +by her whale-boat, to Sakai, a small town +about six miles on the Hiogo side of Osaka, to wait +there for Captain Roy of the <span class='ships'>Venus</span>, and the French +Consul. The steam launch had been lying some time +alongside the wharf, and the townspeople had come +down and been very civil to the crew. After a while, +at about 5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, the engineer and coxswain of the +launch asked the midshipman’s permission to go up +for a stroll.</p> + +<p>The lieutenant, who was in the whale-boat, had +been up for a walk an hour or two previous without +so much as having seen a two-sworded man. +The mid granted permission, but the engineer and +gunner had not gone far before some two-sworded +men seized and tried to secure them; from these +they broke away and made for their boat; as they did +so they were fired on by a number of armed men. The +coxswain was shot and fell into the boat; the engineer +jumped overboard and got to the off side; two more +cut the bow and stern fasts; the stoker tried to turn +the engines ahead and was immediately pierced by three +bullets; the steam-pipe was likewise shot through; the +mid in charge, with six men, jumped overboard.</p> + +<p>The First Lieutenant in the whale-boat, who was +just outside taking soundings, pulled in and was fired +on by some seventy or eighty men. He had one man +shot down, and having no arms, he did not advance +farther; in meantime the steam launch drifted out +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">[187]</span>and was taken hold of by the whale-boat and towed +out of range. Having made sail on the launch, and +leaving the engineer, who was the only person on +board not wounded, to steer, the Lieutenant proceeded +to report matters on board his ship, the <span class='ships'>Dupleix</span>. +Out of sixteen men in the launch and five in the +whaleboat only five with them were not hurt. The +captain of the <span class='ships'>Dupleix</span> sent a petty officer to report +matters to Captain Stanhope; while he proceeded with +his remaining boats armed to Sakai to try if he could +find the mid and six men who had jumped overboard, +not being aware of the force the Japanese might have, +and not wishing to compromise the Foreign Ministers +residing at Osaka.</p> + +<p>It was not the intention of Captain Du Petit +Thours to attack the place, but he requested Captain +Stanhope to acquaint the ministers with the state of +affairs. Captain Stanhope immediately sent Lieutenant +Rougemont in his steam launch with a letter to Sir +Harry Parkes, offering to send boats for their embarkation, +and the <span class='ships'>Cockchafer</span> gunboat to cover them. +The <span class='ships'>Rinaldo</span> he sent to Hiogo to protect foreign +subjects in case of an outbreak there.</p> + +<p>The Captain of the <span class='ships'>Dupleix</span> returned from Sakai +at about 11 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> without having learnt anything of +the missing men, not having been able to land. He +saw many Japanese in the fort, while others were +running down to field-pieces at the landing-stage.</p> + +<p><span class='ships'>Ocean’s</span> steam launch returned from Osaka at 6 +the following morning, bringing off Captain Roy of +the <span class='ships'>Venus</span> and Captain Creighton of the U.S. <span class='ships'>Oneida</span>, +also a letter from Sir Harry Parkes, declining, with +his usual coolness, to embark immediately, saying +that the Japanese Minister had been to him to +express their deep regret at the outrage, and declared +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">[188]</span>that the Mikado’s Government would give full +satisfaction.</p> + +<p>On the 9th March the French and American +Ministers embarked. The French Minister having +demanded that the officer and missing men should be +given up, whether dead or alive, in twenty-four hours, +their bodies were taken alongside the <span class='ships'>Adventure</span> in a +Japanese boat, which was at once towed to the +<span class='ships'>Dupleix</span>.</p> + +<p>On the 10th Sir Harry Parkes embarked on board +the <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>, all the Foreign Ministers being then afloat.</p> + +<p>The funeral of the French midshipman and the +ten seamen who were killed by the Japanese took +place at the cemetery at Hiogo: all the usual honours +being paid by the officers and ships-of-war present.</p> + +<p>A newspaper report goes on to state that the +French Minister, Captain, and officers grasped each +other’s hands over the graves, and called on the +Almighty to witness the vows they then made not to +rest satisfied until they had avenged the blood of +their murdered countrymen.</p> + +<p>The French Minister then took into consideration +the ultimate demands he intended to make, which +he would submit to the other Foreign Ministers +before presenting them to the Mikado’s Government. +These demands are not likely to be either mild +or pleasant to the young Mikado’s newly formed +Government, and, considering Monsieur Roches’ +interest in the Tycoon, and proportionate aversion +to his opponents, unless mitigated and smoothed +down by Sir Harry Parkes, the ultimatum will, I +think, be very embarrassing, and who can see the +end of it or the Civil War either. A raw is established, +and will be worked.</p> + +<div class="sidenote"><i>Written +on board</i> +Rodney, +<i>March +29, off +Breaker +Point</i>, en +route <i>to +Yokohama</i>.</div> + +<p>In the meantime, preparations on the part of the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">[189]</span>Mikado’s Government still continue for an advance +on Yedo, and likewise on the part of the Tycoon +to resist. Then, again, neither Chiefs appear to have +much control over the two-sworded ruffians, their +followers. An attack by both sets united on the +foreign settlements at Yokohama would show little +less judgment or recklessness of consequences than +the insane attack on the foreigners at Corvé, or +the French boat’s crew at Sakai.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">[190]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XCII"> + CHAPTER XCII + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The China Command</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1868. +Flag in +<span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, +Yokohama, +Apr. 6.</div> + +<p><span class='ships'>Rattler</span>, Commander John Swan, arrived, a good +fellow, but subject to fits. Obliged to send him to +hospital. Prussian frigate, saluted under her new +flag.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Apr. 25.</div> + +<p>Poor Swan departed this life.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Apr. 26.</div> + +<p>Appointed Harry Stephenson to command <span class='ships'>Rattler</span> +and Keppel Garnier to be Flag-Lieutenant.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 9.</div> + +<p>Proceeded down the bay, <span class='ships'>Rattler</span> in company.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 17.</div> + +<p>Came to in Corvé Bay.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 18.</div> + +<p>Weighed; stood over in company. Japan flag +in <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>. With <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> to Osaka. Flag saluted +by the French frigate <span class='ships'>Dupleix</span>. Came to off the +bar. Self and Captains were presented to the +Mikado by Sir Harry Parkes. With Minister, accompanied +by staff, we were carried up through the +streets, crowded with Japanese. Sir Harry Parkes +presented credentials, and we were introduced +severally to the Mikado. All the chief nobles were +prostrate in his presence, their heads touching the +ground. The Mikado appeared to be a lad of +sixteen. The streets were lined with kneeling +Japanese.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Osaka, +May 23.</div> + +<p>Japanese princes and great officers visited Rodney +and <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">[191]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 25.</div> + +<p>Weighed under steam. Came to off Nagasaki. +Japan may well be called the “Gem of the Sea” +from her geographical position, her magnificent +harbours and inland sea, the approaches to which +might be rendered impregnable. It is a rich +country, with mines of coal and iron, fisheries, and +a vast maritime population. Japan is coveted alike +by Russia, America, and France; and its possession +would enable the power holding to monopolise the +whole trade in China.</p> + +<p>The Japanese naturally fear the steady march of +Russia towards Japan. They see that in ten years +China has yielded to that country 900 miles of +coast, all tending towards the possession of Japan, +which has harbours open at all seasons of the year, +while Russia’s boundary line on the islands off the +coast has brought her to the door of Japan.</p> + +<p>It is apparent that if we maintain a proper position +in Japan, in consideration of our vast Eastern trade, +England and other nations, not wishing to acquire +territory, will always be in a position to preserve the +integrity of Japan.</p> + +<p>America has discovered that Yokohama is the +most convenient place for a depot of coal for her +4000-ton Pacific steamers, and the United States +Senior Naval Officer informed me that they intended +to establish store-houses at Nagasaki for their men-of-war. +Russia has already a small dockyard at +Nagasaki.</p> + +<p>The French have been, and are still, constructing +docks, and have established, at the Japanese Government’s +expense, a small colony at Yokosha, near +Yokohama.</p> + +<p>At present we have as good a footing in Japan as +any other nation; our trade exceeds that of all others, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">[192]</span>and more British capital has been invested. I am +urging upon the Admiralty the necessity for building +a naval hospital at Yokohama, owing to its salubrious +climate, and also a bungalow for the use of the Naval +Commander-in-Chief, as there is nothing of the +kind on the station.</p> + +<p>It was proposed last year that I should visit the +Gulf of Tartary and the Amoor River this summer. +While at Peking in September, got Sir Rutherford +Alcock to speak to the Russian Minister, Monsieur +A. Vlangali, as I did myself afterwards, requesting him +to mention my intention to the Governor at Nicolai.</p> + +<p>Our party was to have consisted of George +Fitzroy, with his wife and children, Conolly, from +the Peking Legation, and the Commodore. Fitzroy +had remained too long in Shanghai, and was obliged +to start earlier than he intended for a cruise in the +P. and O. <span class='ships'>Benares</span>. They had reached Yokohama +the day before I arrived from Hong Kong in the +<span class='ships'>Rodney</span> (Mrs. Fitzroy was with him, the children +remaining at Shanghai). I persuaded him to embark +immediately on board <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, where he could have +the advantage of the best medical advice. Doctor Hill +took charge of him. We sailed from Yokohama on +May 19, and arrived at Nagasaki, May 28, passing +through the inland sea, and unfortunately landed +Fitzroy apparently no better than when he embarked.</p> + +<p>The <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> arrived on 11th from Cheefoo, +bringing Conolly, who had found his way from +Peking. <span class='ships'>Basilisk</span> (6), Captain Hewitt, arrived on +14th, bringing our mail and the Commodore. Dr. +Hill pronounced Fitzroy in too precarious a state to +embark, and kindly volunteered to remain behind.</p> + +<figure class='figcenter' id='i_193'> + <a href='images/i_193.jpg'><img class='v100' src='images/i_193-t.jpg' alt=''></a> + <figcaption>Map—Northern China, with Coast of Siberia.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>We had two other passengers, who promised to +be of much use to us in Russian waters. One was +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_193"></a><a id="Page_194"></a>[194]</span>a Mr. Esche, the tenant of a large extent of the +coal district in the Island of Saghalien, himself a +German, but speaking the Russian language fluently; +the other, Mr. Adams, the contractor, who had +before been attending a Russian squadron in these +seas in that capacity, a kind-hearted jolly personage, +known in the gunroom by the name of “Beef and +Vegetables.”</p> + +<p>From Sir Rutherford Alcock I received a letter +addressed to himself from the Russian Minister, +Mr. Vlangali, stating that he had written to Admiral +Jean Furnhjelm, Governor of the Province and +Coast, on the subject of my intended visit, that +although he had not yet received an answer, he was +sure that orders would everywhere be given, “pour +faire à votre Amiral tous les soins qui lui sont dûs.”</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 3.</div> + +<p>Leaving the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> at Nagasaki, I took a week’s +cruise in the <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span>, surveying vessel, Commander +Brooker, during which we passed through Hirado or +Spex Strait, Commander Brooker having just completed +a survey of it.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 17.</div> + +<p>Soon after daylight we weighed in <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> and +steamed out of Nagasaki Harbour, steering for +the beautiful passage through Hirado Strait, which, +since Brooker’s excellent survey, I considered perfectly +safe with so good a Staff-Commander as we had in +Harris. Successfully performed this feat. <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> +must have been by far the largest ship that ever +went through. We then shaped a course to the +westward of Iki, through the East Korea Strait, and +to the northward along the Korean coast.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Novogorod +Harbour, +June 20.</div> + +<p>Came to in Novogorod Harbour. In spite of the +survey of Posietta Bay, the entrance to the harbour +is difficult to find on a first visit; it is narrow, but +safe. The settlement, consisting of half-a-dozen +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">[195]</span>huts, did not look inviting, but the scenery round +was fine: hills covered with fresh green pasturage +and brushwood, while well-sheltered harbours within +extensive bays were seen in every direction. I was +waited on by Major Pfingsten, the officer in temporary +charge. He had with him a garrison of fifty +men, while about nine miles inland they had a large +encampment. The Governor of Eastern Siberia, +General Korsakof, and the Lieutenant-Governor, +Rear-Admiral Furnhjelm, were at a place some +miles distant, to whom Major Pfingsten telegraphed +our arrival.</p> + +<p>Close to the settlement was a coal mine, which +they were slowly working with soldiers and such +tools as they had, assisted just at this time by a dozen +Manchurian Chinese prisoners, taken in a border warfare, +in which the Governor, with his Lieutenant and +a thousand men, was then engaged.</p> + +<p>When at Cheefoo in October I heard of an island +in about latitude 42° 40´ off the coast and claimed +by the Russians, on which a party of about three +hundred Chinese were working for gold, which was +reported to be plentiful; and that the Russians had +sent a gunboat to drive the Chinese away, who, being +well armed, had beaten the Russians off: all this, we +heard from Major Pfingsten, it proved to be true, +he had only lately returned from an expedition +to the island of Mayatchni (called in our charts +“Termination”).</p> + +<p>Having no steamer available, he had started in a +sailing vessel with 600 soldiers, including artillery, +but as he was six days going the ninety miles, the +Chinese received timely notice and had wisely decamped. +When the major arrived he found three +men only on the island: these he shot to prove who +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">[196]</span>were the rightful owners of the soil, and then returned. +The Chinamen, who appear to have come from +Manchuria, succeeded in stirring up their countrymen +and brought on this petty border warfare on +which the Governor and his lieutenant were engaged, +and which will, in all probability, end in further +aggression and annexation on the part of the +Russians.</p> + +<p>Whether His Excellency did not approve of our +visiting his territory when he was engaged in so +inglorious a warfare, I cannot tell, but the return +telegraph arrived without a civil word of welcome, +and with directions to the Major not to supply us +with coal. The Major rather softened this by +stating that they expected the Governors in their +respective vessels, both of which would require coal; +and certainly the small supply of about twenty tons +we saw ready on the beach would not have helped +us much.</p> + +<p>During our stay fishing and shooting parties +went away, but we were too early in the season. +The ducks were on their eggs, and the salmon, +so plentiful later, had not arrived. Ducks, geese, +curlew, pigeon, and widgeon were brought on board +in small quantities; two or three shots had been +fired at deer and the footprints of bear had been +seen; in fact, a guide who had conducted a party +to the ground most frequented by wild duck had +killed three bears the day before our arrival.</p> + +<p>Tigers are numerous, but only visit the coast in +the winter, during which time their hair is long and +their skins handsome. There were in the camp bear +and otter skins for sale, as well as a few sables, for +which as much as nine dollars a piece was asked, the +market value being about a tael or three shillings.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">[197]</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">Novogorod, +June.</div> + +<p>One day, mounted by the Major on capital ponies, +Conolly, Garnier, Risk, and self rode to the camp, +about nine miles distant by land, although two miles +by water. From the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> you might land within +half a mile. The ponies, with plain snaffle bits, had +excellent mouths. At the camp, which was situated +on a healthy-looking elevated plain on the bank of a +small river, we found the same sombre-looking +mechanical soldiers that we saw in the Crimea: smoke +and drink apparently their only object, no games or +amusement of any sort going on.</p> + +<p>The country appeared to be well supplied with +cattle, fat and in good condition, but nowhere did +we see sheep. During our ride we had to cross and +re-cross a river by ferry.</p> + +<p>The Manchurian prisoners were unhappy-looking +fellows. I saw them one day after returning from +working at the coal-mines locked up in a wretched +hut. One of the guard threw a few biscuits on +the ground, which the last two men picked up, +probably their only meal. The Major told Conolly +that he thought his prisoners were belonging to a +band of rebels that had long infested the north of +China. He described the men that attacked the +Russian gunboat party on the island of Mayatchni +as being well organized and drilled, and he believed +they had Europeans amongst them. Two of the +prisoners had been liberated to treat for a ransom. +Major Pfingsten had not made up his mind whether +to shoot the prisoners; probably when too weak to +work any longer at the coal-mine he will do so. +There were two long sheds full of grain, brought all +the way from Cronstadt.</p> + +<p>The soil appears in every way adapted for either +cultivation or pasture, but beyond the herds of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">[198]</span>bullocks no attempt was made to cause it to support +the human beings located. The few women there +were at the settlement and in the camp were of a low +sort—convicts. Every encouragement was given +to any soldier who would take one to wife and settle +in the country, land being given gratis, but no advantage +appeared to be taken of this. We were recommended +not to send our clothes on shore to be +washed, as they would probably be stolen.</p> + +<p>The Major was married, his wife being the only +person worthy the appellation of lady; an agreeable +person, with good eyes and teeth; she came on board +to breakfast and enjoyed our band.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 26.</div> + +<p>At 9.45 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> steamer’s lights were observed outside, +and shortly afterwards our Staff-Commander +piloted the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> in, bringing our mail from +Shanghai.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 27.</div> + +<p>At half-past ten weighed under steam, in company +with <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>. She having some defect in her machinery, +was directed to Vladivostock, which Captain Courtenay +in his excellent report describes as somewhat more +cheery and civilized than Novogorod. Although +<span class='ships'>Salamis’s</span> defects were nothing but what she could +put to rights with her own engineers, she was to +rejoin us in Castrie’s Bay. Afternoon, all being well, +clear of the bay, got screw up, having only just coal +enough to keep us in distilled water. Stood to the +eastward, and when well off shore, shaped a course +up the Gulf of Tartary.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Saghalien. +Usu Bay. +July 4.</div> + +<p>Made Cape Lamanon on the coast of Saghalien. +At 7, came to in 7 fathoms in Usu Bay. Here +we found a straggling village of Ainos, all fishermen. +A small stream ran into the sea, off the mouth of +which their nets were arranged, forming three sides +of a square, the fourth open on the land side. The +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">[199]</span>outside was about a cable’s length from the shore, the +two sides extending the whole length, close to the +outside net. But on the inside they had another net +which appeared to lie on the bottom; this they drew +up every now and then, generally bringing up from +thirty to fifty salmon. A few buttons or a bit of +silver would buy as many as we liked to take.</p> + +<p>We found a Japanese trading junk from Hakodadi, +bringing salt and rice in exchange for dried fish and +seaweed. The Russians appeared to assume authority +over the more simple Ainos, and I have no doubt +drove lucrative bargains. The hills and woods, with +the green grass, had, from the ship, an inviting +appearance which was dispelled on attempting to +walk, owing to the rank vegetation and myriads of +mosquitoes. The Ainos themselves were as dirty as +need be. In a cage was the usual bear, petted and +fattened to be killed and eaten at the annual festival +amidst lamentations and rejoicings, when all get +drunk who can. They had a few skins for sale, and +among them Dr. Fegan, with the assistance of Adams, +succeeded in getting me three tolerably good sables.</p> + +<p>A little to the northward of where we anchored +there was a larger river, apparently full of salmon; +although they would not take the flies offered them, +no end of smaller salmon and trout of about a quarter +of a pound were landed as fast as the lines could +be applied. After I had returned on board in the +afternoon, I observed from the stern walk an unusual +commotion among the native fishing-boats that had +spread their nets off the mouth of the stream; one +of our boats on its way to the ship with the wardroom +officers, coming off to dinner, had been attracted to +the spot. There was cheering and shots were fired. +One of the cutters was ready manned, alongside. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">[200]</span>Calling the Commodore, we jumped into her, followed +by Garnier, who took the precaution to bring a +couple of rifle carbines—always ready with ammunition +in the fore cabin. It was a curious and exciting +scene. A whale had got entangled in the fishermen’s +net and was floundering about in its endeavours to +escape. Our boats with those of the natives formed +three sides of a square just outside the edge of the net, +that side next the shore it being unnecessary to guard. +Every minute or so the monster raised his huge head +to blow—I expect as much to look about him—and +then exposed his body as he dived. On each occasion +he was assailed by shots, spears, and lances. Although +I had seen thousands of whales, I never before had +been within boat-hook’s length of a live one. Each +time his head appeared the Commodore and I sent a +rifle bullet into it.</p> + +<p>While the natives plunged lances, the beast spouted +blood and water; twice he tried to hoist the cutter, +but with the crew we were too heavy for him, as +he only tilted us on one side; this work had lasted +nearly half an hour, and we thought his strength +exhausted, when the infuriated animal, probably +pierced deeper by one of the lances, made a final +effort. Lashing his tail, he dashed through the net, +lifted one of the lighter native boats, out of which +the crew had previously escaped, into the air, and +made for the deep, leaving a wake of blood.</p> + +<p>It is to be hoped that the poor natives whose +net he destroyed will be rewarded in a day or two by +finding his body. I was struck by the number of +dogs there were on shore, all apparently in good +condition. They were sledge dogs, and in the +morning two teams of them were scampering along +the beach towing boats; there was no one on shore +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">[201]</span>to guide them, and they appeared to enjoy the +fun.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 6.</div> + +<p>Weighed at 10.30 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> under plain sail. Observing +on the chart there were two lagoons near the +coast, likely for wild fowl, visited them. On standing +in shore, we suddenly took the bottom; last cast +in the chains was 12 fathoms. Had to lay out +stream and heave off; water smooth, weather fine, but +bottom foul. It was 8 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> before we took up our +berth in 7 fathoms, about two miles from the +shore.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 7.</div> + +<p>The spot we selected for our picnic was on a +bank about half cable wide that separated the northern +lagoon from the sea. There was the usual bar; the sea +being smooth, one of our boats passed up. We saw +no natives, but near where we landed was a hut, the +residence of fishermen during the last season. By +the number of heads hung up to dry (as winter food +for the sleigh dogs), salmon must have been large and +plentiful. Eight and a half couple of wild ducks +were bagged by the parties “gunning.” The lagoons +appeared to be bordered by long grass and sedges +and surrounded by hills covered with firs; these +woods were difficult to get through, not so much +from underwood as from the enormous quantity of +decayed and fallen timber, which was covered with +moss or hid by ferns, and treacherous to tread on. +Beyond the hut mentioned, I can imagine no ground +better adapted for the breeding of wild-fowl. None +of the pine trees appeared to grow to any size. In +working his way through the wood Heneage disturbed +a covey of birds, quite young, about a dozen +of them; we shot one, a pheasant.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Najassi, +July 8.</div> + +<p>9.15 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Weighed and made sail. Our next +place was to be Najassi, some fourteen miles farther +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">[202]</span>to the northward, where Mr. Esche had a small +settlement and a grant of an extensive coal district; +We came to in the afternoon off his house, determined +to coal during continuance of fine weather. +We found Mr. Esche’s hut on the right bank of a +small stream, the inhabitants of the settlement consisting +of one Russian and a boy; they appeared +happy and contented, netting as much salmon as +they required for use, drying and salting others for +winter food. They were occasionally visited by +bears. Although provided with a double-barrelled +rifle, Esche never liked to fire for fear of provoking +an attack.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Najassi.</div> + +<p>However, he showed me, in case of Bruin’s coming +to close quarters, a formidable-looking spear, +which was kept inside the house. There had been +some Chinese coolies and boat-builders, but they preferred +the society of Nicholai.</p> + +<p>Green hills rose everywhere from the beach, intersected +at two or three hundred yards by ravines +and rivulets, while patches of coal were seen cropping +out in all directions, at the foot, at the sides and tops, +every convenient height for mining. The great and +only drawback to this valuable property was the +want of a harbour or shelter for coal-lighters. +About four miles to the southward of where Mr. +Esche had built his hut is a small river, inside which +there is a good boat harbour; but, like all the other +streams, there is a bar on which the surf must always +break, except in the finest weather.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 10.</div> + +<p>Coaling was performed by our own people filling +bags and then loading alternately our pinnace and a +boat belonging to the settlement, which was towed +backwards and forwards by the steam launch; by +these means we managed to get about forty tons per +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">[203]</span>day. While the coaling was going on, our usual +sporting parties were formed. There was but little +for the guns, but the salmon were in and swarming +up both the streams and river to the southward. +Although small salmon and trout of about six inches +long were caught by hundreds with every sort of bait, +no salmon of any size would look at a fly, so we were +obliged to resort to other means. The stream at +the settlement was ascended many miles into the +interior between the mountains, the water tumbling +into deep pools at ten or twelve feet distances—these +were black at the bottom with large fish. To get at +them a net was placed across the stream below; we, +with spears and grains, standing on boulders or seated +across a fallen tree, had great excitement and fun, as +the salmon, started from the pool by means of long +poles, made across the shallows for the nearest hole.</p> + +<p>A score of fine fish, from eight to fourteen pounds, +were taken this way in one day; but none, except +those that had been wounded, could be driven into +the net. Another party remained at a pool, some +two miles up the stream, all night, and had great +sport in spearing salmon by torchlight.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Najassi, +July 11.</div> + +<p>The ascent up the stream was difficult and tedious; +the banks, from wood and vegetation, except for a +yard or two here and there, were impassable, independently +of the most formidable mosquitoes, +while the stream was rapid and the large water-washed +stones smooth and slippery. Nevertheless, substantial +meals and everything requisite to support the inward +man were conveyed up. The larger river to the +southward was where there were most fish: these likewise +took no notice of the fly, but the roe from the +female salmon was immediately taken by a large fish, +who leapt some feet out of the water on first taste of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">[204]</span>the hook, and then making a bolt down stream, +round a boulder, disappeared with some fathoms of +line.</p> + +<p>On a flat piece of ground between the sea and +the left bank of the river (here deep and some sixty +yards wide), there is an Aino village of fishermen, +the chief more respectable-looking than the generality +of his countrymen, but with the left side of his face +bandaged up, having suffered from the claw of a bear. +Three or four of them would go in a rickety +boat, and with a small net draw one of the many +pools, bringing out at each draught some forty or +fifty fine salmon; these fellows were at first liberal +enough with their fish, allowing you to take what +you wanted for a small coin, a little cloth or rum, +but afterwards, when they had got all they wanted, +had the impudence to demand a dollar for one fish, +so that it became high time that we should help ourselves.</p> + +<p>The ship’s seine was brought and cast outside the +mouth of the river, when, in a few hauls, some five +hundred salmon were taken—more than enough for +the ship’s company and some to salt besides.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 18.</div> + +<p>We weighed and shifted under sail to a bay called +Pilyawo.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 19.</div> + +<p>Being the Sabbath we remained quiet, with the +exception of sending a boat to communicate with a +German vessel that took Mr. Esche on to Castries +Bay.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 20.</div> + +<p>Joined by <span class='ships'>Rattler</span>, and the following day we +sailed in company.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 22.</div> + +<p>Came to in Tonquiera Bay, <span class='ships'>Rattler</span> going to +Duè to fill up coal.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 24.</div> + +<p>Weighed at daylight and stood to Castries Bay, +where we came to in the evening, finding <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">[205]</span>Heard by her of the sad death at Nagasaki of poor +George Fitzroy. I cannot say that it was quite +unexpected, almost every one but his charming wife +felt he could not recover. On our departure for the +Russian coast I had left our clever surgeon Hill to +look after him. In the Crimea I attended the deathbed +of the elder brother, Augustus. Just as I arrived +at Sierra Leone in February 1861, Arthur Fitzroy, in +command of the <span class='ships'>Falcon</span>, died of fever. As children +at the Cape we had all four played together.</p> + +<p><span class='ships'>Rattler</span> rejoining in the night, shifted flag to +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>. It was a gratification to see young Harry +Stephenson in all the pride of a “first command.” +On Sunday I dined on board his ship, and slept +on board the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, preparatory to a start for +Nicholai, pilots having been most willingly provided +by the officials.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Flag in +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, +July 27.</div> + +<p>Little to remark going up. Channel muddy and +intricate, with the distant shore of Saghalien scarcely +visible to the eastward. There were buoys at some +of the angles, and beacons on the land to the westward, +to place which the pine-trees had been cleared +away. Our leadsmen frequently had “1/4 less 2,” but +we never stopped.</p> + +<p>Snow-white fish, not porpoises—they said, were +tumbling about: round snouts, blow-hole on back +of head, 7 or 8 feet long, not fit for food. As +we neared the entrance, occasional fishing villages +were seen, with no end of salmon drying, dogs and +dirt to any amount.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">[206]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XCIII"> + CHAPTER XCIII + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Flag in <span class='ships'>Salamis</span></span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1868. +Flag in +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, +July 27. +Nicholai.</div> + +<p>6 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Arrived off Nicholai, 120 miles from +Castries Bay; current strong against us. On anchoring, +was waited on by officers from the two vessels-of-war, +offering services; also an officer, in full dress, +from the Commandant, wishing to know at what time +I should land. Having arranged for 11 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> on the +morrow, was received on landing by the Commandant, +Captain Fukevitche, of the Navy; numerous +decorations. We landed, a large party; besides self +and staff, Commodore, Conolly and Stephenson. Proceeded +in the first place to call on Madame Furnhjelm, +wife of the Governor, who was also an admiral; +daily expected from the southward. Nothing could +be kinder or more cordial than my reception.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Nicholai, +July 28.</div> + +<p>A small detached house, evidently the Governor’s +office, was placed at my disposal, everything convenient, +clean and comfortable for “one party”—a +guard and orderlies outside, a note from Madame +stating that I should be daily expected at dinner, +breakfast and luncheon being sent to my room. +The Commandant then showed all the public establishments, +hospital, dockyards, etc., which were all very +well and wonderful for so distant a settlement.</p> + +<p>But nothing bores me so much as this official sight-seeing, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">[207]</span>so took advantage of the first opportunity +to excuse myself, as I had friends on board <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> +to luncheon, and then returned to my allotted +quarters, where my things had been conveyed. +While putting on my “citizen’s dress,” a luxury +in which no Russian officer ever indulges, a rather +good-looking but powerful Russian girl walked in, +and placed a salmon, fresh butter, caviare, cheese, +sherry and port on the table.</p> + +<p>The Commodore, Garnier, and Dob Crosbie +rather liking the appearance of things, we changed +our minds about luncheon on board. Afterwards +took a stroll with Conolly. Plan of future city well +laid out. Streets wide, although stumps of forest +trees still retain their places. Population said to be +five thousand, of which three thousand are military. +The club was kindly placed at the disposal of our +officers, but most of the Russians being here on +punishment, much was not expected of them, and +collision rather avoided.</p> + +<p>The rooms offered were unfurnished, but speedily +filled with pillows, blankets, saddles, carpet-bags, +etc. A little later, party of a dozen were mounted +on hired ponies galloping into the country, headed +by good-natured lieutenant Peakroff of the Russian +Navy.</p> + +<p>There are several stores kept by Germans and +Americans, full of “notions,” in which furs and skins +may be picked up, but no criterion of the proper price +of things could be formed from what was asked of us, +supposed, “rich English.” Small parties of unclean +natives, with hair uncombed, wearing their shirts outside, +fastened at the waist, and sealskin boots, prowled +about the streets jungle fashion. They generally have +sables concealed on their persons for barter, which +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">[208]</span>does not diminish the offensive smell of the uncured +skins.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Flag in +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>.</div> + +<p>Their mode of dealing is curious. A party of +five or six walk into a room without uttering a +word or appearing to take notice of anything. They +squat down in an extended ring according to the size +of the room, and commence smoking. After a lapse +of some minutes one of them draws a sable from +under his clothes with the fur inside, and chucks it +into the middle of the circle. The owner of the house, +who has been attending to other things with a studied +indifference has (by accident of course!) to pass +through the room, takes up the skin, examines the fur +inside, and makes an offer, generally of cloth or +tobacco. If it comes up to their idea they take it and +walk off. If not the skin is returned to its savoury +berth. They separate without comment.</p> + +<p>When back to my quarters there was another note +from Madame Furnhjelm, inviting Conolly and Pusey +to dine there every evening during our stay.</p> + +<p>Conolly went to answer in person, proposing that +during the absence of the Admiral, her husband, we +might be allowed to avail ourselves of the use of the +club, dine at the <i lang='fr'>table d’hôte</i>, and wait on her in the +evening. Such an arrangement this kind lady would +not hear of. She is a fine handsome woman, of +English parents, full of anecdote and information, +with a family of three or four: a wonderful performer +on the piano. Her husband had been +Governor of Russian America, since sold to the +United States. The tea she gave us was excellent, +and, as I had often heard of Russian tea, superior +to anything we got in China.</p> + +<p>The Governor of Eastern Siberia is General Korsakof, +a young man who commanded at Petropauloviski +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">[209]</span>at the time of our absurd expedition in 1855. He +rode night and day to St. Petersburg, which he +reached in an extraordinary short time, with the +account of our defeat. He went into the presence +of Nicholas I. a captain, and left it a general. I +regret we are not to see him here, he having returned +inland from Port Vladivostock.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 29.</div> + +<p>While dressing, my servant informed me that a fine +ham and two eggs had been sent for my breakfast. +The ham was of the wild boar, excellent, but of +immense size.</p> + +<p>Pusey had sent the boats of the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> about +five miles down to the mouth of a small river on the +north bank with the seines: a good excuse for a +picnic. The Commodore, Conolly, Crosbie, Garnier, +and self, were kindly mounted by the Commandant; +we went by a tolerably good road. They had had +two good hauls, taking about three hundred fish +before we got there; after luncheon the net, a small +one with a bag, was laid out a few yards higher up +the river, and in less than ten minutes upwards of a +thousand salmon and trout were landed, independently +of about three hundred returned to the river, said to +be spawning. They were distinguished by an extraordinary +rounding of the back.</p> + +<p>Our dinners with Madame Furnhjelm were +excellent—some strange Russian dishes, intended for +our edification, but everything in English style. In +the evening some ladies dropped in, mostly speaking +English, and we had singing and music. The days +were long, and between dinner and tea Madame took +me a drive in her carriage, ponies rough, but strong +and fat.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">The +Amoor, +July 30.</div> + +<p>A small iron steamer about sixty feet long, and +drawing only two feet water, was placed at our +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">[210]</span>disposal for a trip up the Amoor. Some hopes of +wild fowl were held out. We started a large party; +two Russian officers speaking French accompanied us. +The vessel was named the Russian for “Courier,” +and attached to the telegraph department, the line +taking the right bank of the river. She was kept +with the apparatus on board ready for repairing accidents +to the wire. She could go 1500 miles up the +Amoor, which river was of a red muddy colour, +rendering the contrast great as the white, silvery +backs of the fish showed above as they tumbled over.</p> + +<p>We kept up the right bank, which rose precipitately, +except at the ravines, which occurred every quarter +of a mile, where there was a rivulet, a small +Russian hut, a settlement, a place for drying fish +or the cutting up of timber for fire or building +purposes. About 12 miles up we came to a Russian +village; a picnic being the principal object, a shady +spot was selected, and fire lighted.</p> + +<p>After the songs were expended, only three sportsmen +could be found to proceed up the river in a +canoe in search of wild fowl, while none could be +found to face the wood, so well guarded by +mosquitoes. Grouse were said to abound, but in all +probability looking after their young broods. The +remainder of us proceeded in the steamer, another +mile up, to a Gilak village called Kaki. It was the +season for drying fish, and anything more offensive +than the smell could not be.</p> + +<p>There were bears in different parts of the village: +one, an immensely powerful brute, confined in a log-hut, +from whom it took three men to draw a stick +one of them had thrust through the bars, which +Bruin had seized in his paw. There were two smaller +ones in separate cages, and in one of the houses we +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">[211]</span>saw two young ones, which had been caught as cubs, +and with the natives were quite tame, although fully +aware of the presence of strangers.</p> + +<p>Dogs for winter sleighs were innumerable, all +apparently in good condition, and with few exceptions +secured in irons. The inside of the houses had +fires in the centre for cooking, and a raised platform +about five feet wide attached to the wall. The interiors +were not inviting; the drinking and cooking +utensils were of the most primitive description, made +out of the bark of the white beech.</p> + +<p>In one hut there was the only pretty native we +had seen, a young creature with an infant, whom she +rocked in the most ingenious of cradles. A Russian +officer, struck with the young lady’s charms, purchased +her on the spot, and arranged her transport to +his quarters with as much <i lang='fr'>sang-froid</i> as if he had been +ordering a case of champagne to be sent there. +Conolly bought a cradle similar to the one we had +just seen, but not the kid which was lying in it!</p> + +<p>Returned to the Russian village to pick up the +sportsmen. Return of game, nil. It is said this +race of Gilaks is fast becoming extinct, through the +ravages of small-pox.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 31.</div> + +<p>According to previous arrangement Madame +Furnhjelm came to see the ships, bringing with her +the wife of Captain Riskoff of the Russian Navy, she +also speaking English. We steamed up the river; +but the afternoon setting in rainy, after going +some 15 miles with little variety of scene, we +anchored and had tiffin and then back, having recourse +to whist, Madame Riskoff playing a remarkably +good game.</p> + +<p>Conolly and self had made up our minds, if we +could get the use of a small steamer, to go up the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">[212]</span>Amoor and Usuri rivers so as to join the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> +at Vladivostock by going about 150 miles overland +after leaving the Usuri.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Flag in +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>.</div> + +<p>As the time for the departure of the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> to +save the mail at Shanghai was at hand, and the +Governor still absent, I wrote a private note to the +Commandant, asking if he could provide me with a +steamer; but in Russia a subordinate dare not take +the slightest responsibility; so the reply, official, and +written in the best of English, was vague. He could +let me have a steamer as far as Hovorafka, the +junction of the Usuri, but had no power to send her +beyond, and that the post horses had been removed +from Bonsey on account of the border war; this was +the place we should have landed at, to cross over to +Vladivostock. However, a telegram announced the +arrival of the Admiral in Castries Bay, so I deferred +the departure of <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> until noon of the 2nd, +while I was prepared to depart at that hour by either +route.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 1.</div> + +<p>The Commodore, Conolly, Pusey, and self, dined +with Madame Furnhjelm. Just before the dinner +hour the steamer with Governor-Admiral hove +in sight, but this kind lady declined to excuse us; she +said two hours must elapse before the steamer could +come up against the stream and anchor. We, however, +withdrew in time not to be present at the first +meeting after three months’ absence. The Admiral +could not have been at home five minutes before he +came in full costume to call on me, in his own house, +after which we returned to tea with Madame. Admiral +Furnhjelm is a hale, handsome man of about +fifty, rather bald, gray hair, with very black eyebrows, +manner most cordial and kind. I did not allude +to the letter I had written relative to ascending the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">[213]</span>Usuri, but His Excellency remarked that he had heard +of my visit, I suppose from his wife, and that there +were many difficulties, but that he would give me an +answer before ten o’clock the following morning.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 2.</div> + +<p>We had made our arrangements for either route, +but, I must confess, with some anxiety as to the +result. No more novel or agreeable trip could be +conceived than that we had proposed by river.</p> + +<p>Precisely at the appointed time, the Admiral, with +a large map, at once laid before us what he conceived +to be great difficulties. The insurrection and invasion +to the southward by these Chinese rebels had +caused them to withdraw all the horses along the +post road for the use of the troops; that the rebels, +although dispersed, were not subdued, and might be +marauding the country, and that beyond the point +called Bonsey, he could not be responsible for our +lives. Most of these difficulties could, he said, in a +couple of weeks, be overcome, and an escort got +ready.</p> + +<p>However, kindly placed before us as it was, it was +evident we were not wanted, so we put the best face +on our disappointment, thanked him all the same, but +declined attempting the journey.</p> + +<p>A parting breakfast was prepared for us, and our +party having embarked, <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> weighed, and soon +was passing rapidly down the river, assisted by the +current. The battery saluted with fifteen guns, +<span class='ships'>Rodney</span> having fired a similar number on arrival of +the Admiral in Castries Bay without a return.</p> + +<p>Our pilot was an intelligent young officer who had +himself planned and placed the numerous buoys and +landmarks, without which no one, however experienced, +could guide a vessel clear of the shoals. The landmarks +are ingeniously arranged, being triangular +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">[214]</span>whitewashed frames, showing the rear higher than +the other. To place these the dark-looking fir-trees +had been felled in the line, and the landmarks were +seldom visible more than one pair at a time.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 3.</div> + +<p>We anchored in Castries Bay a little after 1 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>, +and might have done the distance within the +twelve hours had it not been for the dense fogs so +prevalent in these seas, especially on the China side. +The pilot, who had run for a high bluff, had a curious +way of ascertaining its vicinity in a fog, or at night, +by blowing the steam whistle; if near the high land +there would be an echo.</p> + +<p>With this assurance he suddenly put his helm +hard-a-port and stood boldly in until within range of +the <span class='ships'>Rodney’s</span> responding guns and the curious glare of +the blue lights which could scarcely penetrate the fog.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Flag in +<span class='ships'>Rodney</span>.</div> + +<p>During the two days here made several attempts +to dredge for shells, but with trifling success. The +steam launch being well adapted, fishing parties +away catching large quantities of whiting, which were +excellent. They seized at any bait with which the +hook was covered; some rock cod were caught in +same way—in the seine, off the mouths of three +rivers, 435 salmon and trout and 1450 flat fish. +Several broods of young grouse perched in trees were +seen by walking parties. During our picnics, where +our dredging parties landed, I had much difficulty in +preventing the men from taking the numerous young +birds that were found in the holes and crevices of +rocks, Jack always fancying that because the small +things opened their mouths he could feed and rear +them.</p> + +<p>The greatest number were a species of diver about +the size of a widgeon, with the brightest orange-coloured +legs and beak, with ornamental horns or +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">[215]</span>plumes on each side of the head; the plumage black—eye, +light green with small black spot in centre; +narrow red edge to eyelid. The flight was rapid, +like others of the species. We shot a few as specimens. +Among them a bird, with a sharp-pointed bill, +upper one slightly hooked, as if for extracting fish +from shells, with still brighter red legs, same colour +inside the mouth, plumage black, eye black.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 4.</div> + +<p><span class='ships'>Rattler</span> despatched to coal at Duè and then to +stop <span class='ships'>Basilisk</span> with our mail at Possiette Bay.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Duè, +Aug. 5.</div> + +<p>Sailed soon after daylight for Duè, off which we +arrived at 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> Observed <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> steaming to the +southward, <span class='ships'>Rattler</span> at anchor—a Russian transport +apparently in a hurry coaling, the lighters grounding +at low water. It being spring tides, therefore dispatched +<span class='ships'>Rattler</span> with what she had, and proceeded to +coal ourselves, with the two lighters they had spared +the <span class='ships'>Rattler</span>. A convenient wooden pier enabled our +people, with the use of the Russian carts that ran +along a tramway, to coal pretty well. The village +looked wretched and dirty. There were barracks, +hospital, and storehouses.</p> + +<p>On an eminence to the northward is a tolerable +lighthouse—some small gardens up the two ravines, +down which the village is watered. The population +consisted chiefly of convicts. Coal appeared to crop +out in all directions.</p> + +<p>The Commandant was a sort of Cossack savage +of low rank, but, although generally under +the influence of drink, always treated me with +military respect. His garrison consisted of about +fifteen persons, distinguished from the villagers by +being allowed, occasionally, to shave. The women +were repulsive-looking, and all wore great boots. +The Commandant always presented me with an +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">[216]</span>official return of the state of his garrison, which no +one could decipher. Drunkenness was the order of +the day. A small log-shed with a hole about eighteen +inches square was the only receptacle for such as +could not stand. Into this they were thrust head +foremost by those that could, and from which they +came out, I suppose, when able to do so without help.</p> + +<p>The evening before we sailed some of our officers +assembled for a convivial evening at the Commandant’s. +In the middle of a song his wife withdrew +behind a screen that divided the apartment, and a +few minutes afterwards a noise, as from a kid, +announced the birth of a child, which proved to be the +son and heir. Instead of retiring and leaving the lady in +her trouble, a toast was drunk and an impromptu song +in honour of the little stranger. I had called on +the lady two days before and observed nothing particular +except that she looked like a Cossack without +a beard.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 8.</div> + +<p>Having completed coaling (coal six roubles per +ton), and settled accounts, we weighed. Some +twelve miles to the southward we had heard of a +place, “Adnginoo,” with a river, and fish and crystals +to be picked up; we came to abreast of it. The +river, like all others along the coast, has a bar entrance—a +short distance up it is exceedingly picturesque.</p> + +<p>Some of our party ascended in the light boats of +the Gelyaks. There were the usual small villages at +the mouth, with dried fish, sleigh dogs, confined bears, +smell and dirt. Natives, a quiet inoffensive race, +their only weapon a fish spear. One seining party +had several good hauls, getting, besides salmon, what +our fishermen called cucumber smelts; they certainly +smelt of cucumber, and were good eating. Several +fish were also taken. I pinned one down in the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">[217]</span>river with a boat-hook. With the dense wood and +covert along the coast and mountains the nearly total +absence of any living thing was remarkable. High +up the river, a rather peculiar mussel was found, so +thick and firmly implanted that the bottom of the +river had the appearance of pavement. I obtained +specimens. A fresh breeze having sprung up from +the westward, we hurried our sportsmen on board +and weighed under sail. There might have been +crystal caves in the neighbourhood, but we found +nothing beyond broken stones with small pieces of +crystal attached. With the dredge I had no success.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">[218]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XCIV"> + CHAPTER XCIV + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The China Command</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1868. +Flag in +<span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, +Aug. 14.</div> + +<p>Came to in Vladivostock Harbour: usual salutes. +Etholin, the Commandant, had promised a deer-shooting +day before we left. Lately the rain had +fallen regularly. The season was early, but our +time and provisions were short. At an early +hour <span class='ships'>Ogle</span>, with fifty marines, landed to assist in +driving. There was a small peninsula, the neck of +which was not more than one hundred yards across.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Vladivostock.</div> + +<p>The deer were in plenty, but not easily circumvented. +Three only were seen to take to the isthmus; +the remainder broke through the line of beaters, who +were armed with pikes only. When our party of +twelve arrived in steam launch, one of the three deer +had taken to the water and escaped.</p> + +<p>A two-mile walk through swampy ground brought +us to the isthmus, where the cordon of marines was +drawn. Of our party, Rose volunteered when half-way +through the swamp to go back and send the +launch to the next bay. He met with his reward.</p> + +<p>Of the two deer that had been driven, one only +turned up on the return, and observing the men +stationed across the neck of land took to the water +on the opposite side, to which the launch was coming. +No time was lost in hauling the native boat, in tow, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">[219]</span>over the land into the sea on the opposite side; the +young stag swam well, but a bullet from Rose’s gun +divided the spine; the poor animal was brought in +triumph to the shore. It was a large force to +welcome the one trophy, but the excitement was +great.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Flag in +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, +Aug. 29.</div> + +<p>At sunset flag was transferred to <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, and on +29th we parted company with <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, to meet again +(D.V.) in four months’ time. <span class='ships'>Basilisk</span> had sailed at +daylight for Hong Kong with our mails and herself +for return home.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Hakodadi, +Aug. 31.</div> + +<p>Started for Hakodadi; arrived on 31st, but +finding no coal proceeded same day. Some little +excitement had been caused at Hakodadi by the +arrival of one of the vessels engaged in the Macao +coolie or slave trade. The old story—the coolies +found they had been taken in; watched their opportunity, +murdered the crew. They had evidently +been to the coast of Siberia, and afterwards drifted +into Volcano Bay, when some Japs brought them +into Hakodadi.</p> + +<p>The first person on board was Mr. Butcher, our +contractor, who, finding a British flag hoisted, claimed +her as his property. The American Consul being +next on board discovered <em>his</em> national flag, on which +he hauled down the English and substituted the stars +and stripes. However, the Japs, being assured that +they, in the absence of the real owner, had the best +claim, took advantage of the darkness of night to +take an overhand knot in the fly of the stripes and +hoisted the Japanese flag: this was considered by the +United States Consul a great insult to his nation; +hence the excitement. A piece of absurdity in which +I did not interfere, except in giving my opinion that +the United States Consul had no more right to hoist +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">[220]</span>his flag than our contractor had the English! However, +I left them to settle it their own way.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Yokohama, +Sept. 2.</div> + +<p>At sunset we arrived in Yokohama Bay; found +<span class='ships'>Ocean</span> and <span class='ships'>Rattler</span>. Civil War progressing; the +Mikado’s Government in possession. Our Naval +Instructors of Japanese could not go on with their +work, and not caring to be paid for nothing, tendered +their resignations through me to Sir Harry Parkes.</p> + +<p>This the Japanese gladly accepted, as it enabled them +to get rid of the French Military Instructors, who, +through their late minister, had shown a decided preference +to the Tycoon; besides, their demands for +payment were out of proportion to their services. +They were angry with the perfidious English for +having set the example of not receiving pay for that +they did not do. From information we had gained +during our northern cruise, it was considered desirable +that the Russians should be looked up, to the northward +of Yesso, and as this was an affair in which the +French minister considered they had an equal interest, +the <span class='ships'>Rattler</span> and <span class='ships'>Dupleix</span> were told off for that service.</p> + +<p>The mail from England arrived, bringing me the +sad news of my dear friend Rajah Brooke’s death; a +final paralytic seizure from which he never rallied.</p> + +<div class="sidenote"><span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, +Hong +Kong, +Sept. 24.</div> + +<p>We started for Osaka, hurried to Nagasaki, communicated +with <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> at Woosung, went to +Shanghai, Amoy, and Hong Kong, arriving there on +October 14. Here was stationed the <i>Princess +Charlotte</i>, bearing the broad pennant of Commodore +Oliver Jones, an eccentric good fellow, who managed +the dockyard and south part of the station; in the +hot season he generally came on leave and joined the +Commander-in-Chief in the north and cooler parts. +The <span class='ships'>Princess Charlotte</span> was jury-rigged, the same I +had seen launched at Portsmouth when the dock +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">[221]</span>broke in September 1825. Jones kept the smaller +vessels in a constant move, and I believe outdid his +chief in hospitality. He was a good draughtsman as +well, fond of sport; later on he ended his days in the +hunting field.</p> + +<p>Heard at Hong Kong that on August 22 and +23 the home of Mr. Taylor and other members +of the China Inland Mission had been attacked, +pillaged, and partially burnt. The residents were +pelted with stones, one having his sight much injured, +while the wife of one of the missionaries, although +far advanced in pregnancy, was obliged to jump out +of a window. These missionary ladies do their hair +in Chinese style, and wear the Chinese costume, and +look remarkably well in it—from their fairness and +size, being a vast improvement on their models.</p> + +<p>The outrages resulted from placards prepared by +the literati of the district, who endeavoured to excite +the rancour of the mob by proclaiming that the missionaries +scooped out the eyes of the dying, and opened +Foundling Hospitals that they might eat children and +prepare medicine from their brains. Previous to the +attack, Mr. Taylor earnestly sought protection from +the local Chinese authorities, begging that the placards +might be taken down, but without avail.</p> + +<p>The <span class='ships'>Rinaldo</span>, Commander Robinson, proceeded +to Chinkiang and Nankin on September 3, conveying +Mr. Consul Medhurst from Shanghai, whose +representations resulted in a proclamation acknowledging +the right of foreigners to reside in the +country, and enjoining the people to respect them. +A promise was also made of reparation to those who +were injured.</p> + +<p>At this stage, Commander Bush of the <span class='ships'>Rinaldo</span>, +having an attack of illness, started off to Shanghai, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">[222]</span>leaving Mr. Medhurst in a house-boat to settle the +affair. No sooner was the protection or prestige of +the man-of-war removed than the Chinese authorities +became insolent, refusing to grant the Consul the +interview he had a right to demand, and withdrew all +their previous concessions. At the same time the +literati published fresh placards, threatening to burn +down any house rented by foreigners, refusing them +the right of residence at Chinkiang. Mr. Medhurst, +failing in his negotiation, returned to Hong Kong to +await further instructions from Sir Rutherford Alcock.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 13.</div> + +<p>To Macao in packet steamer. Joined following +day by <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Flag in +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, +Affairs in +Formosa, +Nov. 1.</div> + +<p>After we were under weigh in Macao roads, a +gunboat joined us from Hong Kong with the +northern mail, bringing pressing letters for my +interference in Formosa. Having previously made +arrangements for all contingencies, proceeded on the +route I had arranged for visiting the southern part +of the station. I had left the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> at Shanghai, +with instructions to Captain Heneage to carry out +the views of the Consul, Mr. (afterwards Sir Walter) +Medhurst, and render him every support. Directions +were also given to prepare such a force as would +overawe the troublesome Tontais in Formosa. +Captain Heneage proceeded in <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, <span class='ships'>Rinaldo</span>, and +<span class='ships'>Stanley</span> in company, to Nankin, where he was reinforced +by Lord Charles Scott in the <span class='ships'>Icarus</span> and +the <span class='ships'>Zebra</span>, Commander Trollope. Mr. Medhurst was +on board the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>.</p> + +<p>It became apparent that the Viceroy, Tseng Kuo-fau, +rested his faith on diplomatic fencing. The first +step of our diplomacy was to seize the Chinese screw +gunboat <span class='ships'>Tien Chi</span> as a material guarantee for fulfilment +of the claims of our Consul. One of these was +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">[223]</span>that proclamations engraved on stone should be +erected in the principal places, acknowledging the full +right of Europeans to reside and exercise their calling. +Compensation was demanded for the injuries inflicted +on the persons and property of the missionaries; +these and some minor demands were at once +conceded, and the gun-boat was released.</p> + +<p>Subsequently the Consul, accompanied by a strong +landing party from the ships, under the immediate +command of Captain Heneage, proceeded to Yeng +Cheow, where they remained until the Viceroy’s concessions +were enforced.</p> + +<p>During the past year British subjects and other +foreigners have been repeatedly maltreated by people +connected with the local authorities at Taiwan and +Takan in Formosa. The Tontai attempted to carry +out a monopoly of the camphor trade. Six thousand +dollars’ worth of that drug, owned by Messrs. Ellis +and Co., was seized. An Englishman named Haidore +was stabbed. Dr. Maxwell, a missionary, was accused +of murder, and the mode of proving his guilt was +somewhat curious. A mob, bearing on their shoulders +a native joss, carried it round the house, and suddenly +stopping, the hand of the image was made to point +to a certain spot, where they commenced digging.</p> + +<p>To the astonishment of the Doctor, a number of +human bones were turned up, which, of course, had +been previously placed there. Notice of this +“discovery” was published, stating that the bones +were those of Maxwell’s victims, and his house was +burned down. The Consul, Mr. Gibson, when about +to start for Pitows to confront Dr. Maxwell with his +accusers, got information of three ambuscades prepared +to intercept him on the road.</p> + +<p>Other outrages occurred and native Christians met +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">[224]</span>with inhuman persecution. The Chinese authorities +evaded our claims for redress; at one moment pretending +to concede, at the next withdrawing their promises. +The Tontai of Amoy was ordered from Peking, to +proceed to Formosa and settle all existing difficulties; +but he coolly informed Her Majesty’s Consul on his +arrival that they appeared to him of so little importance, +he was determined to return to Amoy without +any practical investigation into the real state of +affairs. Mr. Gibson saw that some material guarantee +was necessary for the fulfilment of his claims, and requested +Lieutenant Gurdon of the <span class='ships'>Algerine</span> to occupy +Amping and the Fort of Zelandia, which forts constituted +the key to the capital of Formosa, Tai-wan-foo, +from which they are distant some 3000 yards.</p> + +<p>The Tontai, having in the first instance agreed that +Amping should be held as a guarantee, appears now +to have ordered it to be put into a state of defence. +Lieutenant Gurdon observed this and gave notice to +the inhabitants of his intention. He then opened +fire at about 2000 yards from the pivot gun of +<span class='ships'>Algerine</span>. Finding, however, that he was unable to +prevent the construction of earthworks—forty-one +guns were already in position—he determined to +surprise the camp at night. At 10.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> Gurdon left +the <span class='ships'>Algerine</span> in his gig, accompanied by the cutter, +containing two officers and twenty-three men. He +landed on the beach in a heavy surf about two miles +below the town. The gig, in spite of precaution, was +swamped.</p> + +<p>Having formed on the beach, he threw out +skirmishers and advanced with caution, taking advantage +of every inequality of ground. When within +eight hundred yards, he observed Chinese moving about +the fortifications, and the moon shining brightly, he +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">[225]</span>made his men lie down under the cover of some +rising ground until 2 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>, when he made a rush, and +was in the heart of the town before he was discovered. +Gurdon got hold of a guide and at once proceeded +to the Heptar’s Yamun, the door of which he burst +in before he could get at the garrison, which consisted +of about fifty men. They barricaded the door of +an inner apartment, extinguished the lights, and, +refusing to surrender, were fired on, when some eight +were killed.</p> + +<p>It was, of course, not the time for Gurdon, +with his handful of men, to show the slightest +hesitation. The remainder of the Chinese soldiers +broke down a door in their rear and escaped. It +was daylight before Gurdon had time to take +possession of Fort Zelandia and station his men, +when the enemy were observed in force coming up +from Tai-wan-foo, led by a mandarin carrying a +yellow flag. They were received with such a deadly +fire from the unerring Snider that in less than five +minutes the mandarin’s men broke and fled, leaving +our little force in possession. The loss of the Chinese +during this little engagement was twenty-one killed +and thirty-six wounded, while the mandarin, unable +to face the disgrace, returned to his quarters and +committed suicide.</p> + +<p>Gurdon belonged to Norfolk. He sent me some +of his captured brass guns.</p> + +<p>The result of this action was the complete submission +of the Tontai. The attempted monopoly of the +camphor trade was broken down. The ringleaders +in the outrage against Dr. Maxwell were punished +by decapitation; pecuniary compensation was made +to Ellis and Company for their losses, and a guarantee +given for future good behaviour. However, there +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">[226]</span>was dissatisfaction at Peking. The Prince of Kung +pretended to be much annoyed at the manner in +which this affair had been settled. Gibson got into +a row with our Minister for having called upon +Gurdon to proceed to such active measures, and he +was in danger of being superseded. And yet +negotiations had been going on for five months, +during which time the Tontais had set their own +Government, our Consuls, and all Treaty rights at +defiance. I, too, had been preparing, at the request +of our Minister, a powerful force that would have +captured the Formosan capital, in spite of its garrison +of 10,000 men, when the gallant Gurdon cut the +Gordian knot and spoilt my “pidgin.”</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>There came in due time wiggings from the +Foreign Office and the Admiralty, in spite of the +success of the operations. Gurdon and I had the +distinction of being traduced in the House of +Commons. Subsequently, on comparing notes with +our Ambassador at Peking, who had also been found +fault with, we agreed how utterly ignorant our +authorities at home were of the manners and customs +of the Chinese, and have they not been so even since +the time we are discussing? Wars have already +occurred on far less provocation.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">[227]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XCV"> + CHAPTER XCV + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The Command in China</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1868. +Nov. 1.</div> + +<p>At the same time we heard of the fresh complications +in China, the mail brought news of the loss of the +<span class='ships'>Rattler</span> on September 24, in Shakotan Bay. My +grief was great. Poor <span class='ships'>Rattler</span>; unlucky nephew! +In the midst of their trouble the French sloop +<span class='ships'>Dupleix</span>, with the ever kind Captain du Petit +Thours, arrived, and took them off to Yokohama.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Flag in +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>.</div> + +<div class="sidenote">Saigon. +Nov. 5.</div> + +<p>We arrived at Saigon on November 5. There +was no difficulty in finding a pilot off Cape St. +James. We proceeded at once up the river to +Saigon. On landing, was received by the French +officials with every demonstration of respect. The +Governor’s carriage, drawn by four grays, and a +mounted escort, conveyed me to Government House, +where apartments for self and staff were ready. +Marie Gustave Hector Ohier was Governor and +Naval Commander-in-Chief in China and Japan. He +had served in the French Naval Brigade in the +Crimea; but we were on different Attacks, and did not +meet. His A.D.C. and Flag-Lieutenant, Comte G. F. +Edmond de Grancy, likewise a good fellow; his +mother was English, and he spoke our language +fluently.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Saigon.</div> + +<p>Saigon appears to have been well selected as a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">[228]</span>dockyard and arsenal; situated 25 miles up a river +navigable for line-of-battle ships, it might be rendered +invulnerable in these days of infernal machines: a +legitimate defence, as it can seldom be used except +against an aggressor. In the arsenal were all the +means of building ships-of-war. Several old line-of-battle +lay in the river, besides an immense troopship, +equal to our largest. French rulers are energetic +and active. By means of convict labour, which they +obtain from Bourbon, they carry on roads and raise +buildings.</p> + +<p>The site for a magnificent city, with squares +and palaces, is marked out; but the great thing +wanted is population, which, in spite of the assurances +of the young Comte de Grancy, beloved by +the natives, is now fast disappearing. In the +temporary banquetting room, where I was entertained, +were pictures of the Emperor and Empress, +to which was added that of Isabella of Spain. +Saddle horses were placed at our disposal. Visited a +large breeding establishment, chiefly of Australian +mares and Arab horses; but the produce were a +weedy-looking lot! There was a zealous and enterprising +naturalist in one Monsieur Pierne, Directeur +du Jardin Botanique, Saigon, who appeared to work +unassisted.</p> + +<p>I was told that one road extended some 900 +miles in a northerly direction, which must bring +them not far from our Burmese possessions. We +heard from the officers of the gunboats who make +excursions up the river that they frequently get shots +at elephants and that tigers are numerous. The +sport may be good, but I should think the climate +was not to be trifled with. Nothing in the shape of +curios was to be obtained, with the exception of small +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">[229]</span>boxes and stands inlaid with mother-o’-pearl, in the +making of which the natives seem to excel.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 7.</div> + +<p>Sailed in the afternoon, having been escorted back +as I had arrived. When taking leave of Admiral +Ohier on shore, I requested him not to return my +visit, as the one I now paid him was in return for +that he paid me at Hong Kong, when he departed +without giving me an opportunity of waiting on him. +I was off the following morning for Singapore, where +we arrived on the 10th, staying only to coal before +paying a long promised visit to Siam.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Bankok, +Nov. 15.</div> + +<p>We arrived at Bankok on the 15th. The Consul-General, +Colonel Knox, kindly offered me the hospitality +of the Consulate. W. H. Read was already +there, having come up at my request to settle some +consular matters which required attention. The young +King Khoulalonkorn had but recently succeeded his +father, whose obsequies were proceeding.</p> + +<p>In one of the principal temples, the remains of +His Majesty were placed in a huge silver urn, from +which a ribbon passed through the hands of numerous +priests, whose duty it was to pray day and night for +the repose of the King’s soul. The ceremonies continue +for a year, after which all that is left of the +departed is consigned to the flames. Nothing could +exceed the kindness of the young King: an intelligent +and good-looking youth. Banquets and +entertainments were the order of the day, and there +was much of interest to see in the beautiful temples, +palaces, and buildings, placed in the most picturesque +scenery.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 18.</div> + +<p>On the 18th left for Sarawak, paying a short +visit, and arrived at Singapore on the 27th.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 30.</div> + +<p>Weighed and steamed to the westward.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 2.</div> + +<p>Came to in Penang Roads.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">[230]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 8.</div> + +<p>Mail steamer arrived, bringing the wife, Colin +and little May, who were quickly embarked.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 10.</div> + +<p>Arrived at Singapore, but for the duties of command, +with wife and kids on board, my kind old +friends made me feel doubly at home. Alongside +Kampong Bahru I felt the harbour was my own: it +was scarcely discovered when in the <span class='ships'>Mæander</span>. I recommended +it to a shifting Board of Admiralty as +the fittest coaling station in the Far East.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Dec. 19. +Labuan.</div> + +<p>Arrived at Labuan. Mr. Pope Henessey was +the first on board; he had a grievance. The officer +in command of a gunboat had declined to fire a +royal salute when directed by the Governor to do so, +on Mr. Disraeli becoming Prime Minister. Explained +that owing to accidents no man-of-war +mounting less than ten guns was allowed to fire a +salute. However, I was told that the zealous +Governor had dug up some old buried guns, and +had his salute fired, not quite to regular time.</p> + +<p>Vast improvements had been made since our last +visit. Mr. Hugh Low, the Secretary, had married his +daughter to the Governor. Low was a botanist, and +had introduced that delicious fruit, the pumalo. +Dr. Treacher, the late Rajah’s friend, held a government +appointment. De Crespigny had left the navy +and become a Resident. We remained till the 23rd.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 26.</div> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 31.</div> + +<p>Came to in Manila Bay. Courteously received +as before in <span class='ships'>Dido</span>, and again in the <span class='ships'>Mæander</span>. It +has altered little in the past five-and-twenty years, +except to become more like a town on the Riviera +than those one finds in the East under our own flag. +There are plate-glass windows in the shops, a handsome +boulevard, cafés, and bands playing.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1869. +Jan. 1.</div> + +<p>We were no sooner clear of Manila Bay than we +began to experience what it was to face the north-east +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">[231]</span>monsoon. All my party were prostrate. <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> +was so sudden in her movements that cots were given +up and beds spread on the deck. My boy was in a +burning fever—caught, we supposed, at Labuan—patient +and good, calling only for drink, but unable +to bear clothing.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Hong +Kong, +Jan. 3.</div> + +<p>At 8.30 we came to in Hong Kong. Keppel +Garnier started to ask Dr. Hill to come from the +<span class='ships'>Melville</span>, hospital ship. The Governor and Lady +Macdonnell kindly arranged everything for our +reception at Government House, where we went on +arrival. Doctors Murray and Dodds were soon in +attendance. After consultations, they tried to +persuade us that Colin would pull through. On +service, wives and children ought to remain at +home!</p> + +<p>However, the boy soon mended.</p> + +<p>Nothing could have been more fortunate than the +quarters into which we had been so kindly received. +There was scarcely a person in Hong Kong who did +not sympathise with us. Coxswain Webb was better +than any nurse. Our children were much at the +Bertrand’s, where their charming little daughter, +Louise, took kindly to them. But all this has no +business in a sailor’s log!</p> + +<p>Time passed pleasantly; with any other than the +true Irish hospitality with which we were entertained +I should have fancied we were over-staying our +welcome. The flagship <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> did not put in an +appearance until the 21st. She had then to make +good defects, and leave was due to the crew.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 22.</div> + +<p>We started, children and all, by the 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> steamer +to pay a visit to my old friend Robertson at his Yamun +in Canton. Nothing could be prettier than the +passage through the Cap Sing Moon Pass, and when +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">[232]</span>we came to the Boca Tigris Forts I had much to +relate of bygone days. There, too, to the northward, +was the fort I, with a small squadron, in 1857, was +instructed to capture, which “pidgin” was spoilt by +the Chinese not wanting to fight. I have at Bishopstoke +the cap and sword which the Chinese Governor +threw away that he might not be recognized. After a +short stop at Whampoa, we arrived at the Pier of +Canton, where Robertson waited with chairs to receive +us. Wenny Coke, who arrived a few days previously +from the north, came with us in the steamer, and was +also put up by Robertson.</p> + +<p>Archdeacon Gray had kindly undertaken to show +all there was. But we had arranged to return +in a day or two, and our time would not allow +of our seeing a tithe of what the kind Archdeacon +wished. We, however, saw one or two joss-houses, +only curious when the meaning of the various +grotesque figures and inscriptions were explained. +The City of the Dead was the most extraordinary. +It is a walled town, surrounded by a ditch, as if +it was ever likely to be attacked! It is here that all +those who can afford it deposit their dead until some +auspicious day for the funeral occurs, which may not +be for years. Others who, having come from some +distant province to hold office under Government, +deposit their dead relatives in these clean and snug +lodgings until they have made their fortunes, or are +turned out, as the case may be.</p> + +<p>The city is composed of one-storied houses, the +streets straight and painfully quiet; some of the +houses contained one, but the others two or three +coffins resting on stretchers. There were joss sticks +burning in most, with a change of raiment and other +little comforts the departed might require, and as +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">[233]</span>there were a few priests about, I daresay the “comforts” +were appreciated.</p> + +<p>Having an appointment to meet the Viceroy at +the Consul’s Yamun, I was obliged to leave the sightseers +and had not time to partake of an excellent +luncheon; as it was I followed the Viceroy’s train of +followers, and had only donned my uniform in time +to enter the room as the Consul received him with a +salute of three guns.</p> + +<p>Our interview was the same as on a previous +occasion, only now, as established old friends, we +were much more cordial. The children amused +themselves in the small, walled park attached to the +Yamun, but a change of weather and a cutting N.E. +wind coming on, our experienced friend the Archdeacon +cautioned us to be careful.</p> + +<p>Went out again curio-hunting, and on our return +found a despatch from the Commodore detailing +an outrage at Swatow, in which some well-known, +ill-disposed villagers had fired into the <span class='ships'>Cockchafer’s</span> +boats, wounding eleven persons (some badly), and +the Commodore, pending further instructions, was +preparing to punish the offenders.</p> + +<p>It was fortunate my being in Canton with the +Consul, as it enabled us at once to communicate +with the Viceroy, Swatow being under his jurisdiction. +The boats of the <span class='ships'>Cockchafer</span>, when away exercising +up the River Han, were assailed by stones by the +inhabitants of the semi-piratical village of Ou-teng-foi.</p> + +<p>The Commander landed, intending to remonstrate +with the headman of the village, but as he could +get no one to conduct him to his house, he seized a +well-dressed Chinaman who was near, and who had +witnessed the outrage, that he might take him before +the Consul at Swatow to be examined.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">[234]</span></p> + +<p>Without further provocation the villagers opened +fire on the <span class='ships'>Cockchafer’s</span> boats, who, finding themselves +opposed to some six hundred Chinese, made a running +fight of it, as they retreated down the river, killing +and wounding several of their assailants, returning +with the gunner and a boatswain’s mate dangerously, +and eight others, in a less degree, wounded.</p> + +<p>I at once placed myself in communication with +the Viceroy of the two Kwang provinces. That part +of the department, Quang Tung, lying to the northward +and eastward of Canton had long resisted the +Imperial Power, refusing to pay taxes, while they +themselves levied blackmail on traders passing from +Chow-Chow-Fou. An imperial army of from five +to six thousand troops was gradually making its +way to Chow-Chow-Fou, bringing the villages under +subjection as it marched.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants of the villages of Tang-Tau and +Po-leng had on one occasion roasted alive the mandarin +who had been sent to govern them. They placed +another mandarin between two planks and sawed him +in halves. The Viceroy immediately sent orders for +the army to advance, and appointed two Commissioners, +with a force and a couple of gunboats, to +co-operate with our forces towards the punishment of +the offending villages. The Commodore was ordered +to take command of the <span class='ships'>Rinaldo</span>, <span class='ships'>Perseus</span>, <span class='ships'>Leven</span>, +<span class='ships'>Bouncer</span>, and <span class='ships'>Cockchafer</span>, together with a party of +seamen and marines from the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Flag in +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>.</div> + +<p>These being soon ready, the Commodore proceeded +to Swatow, with orders to make preparations, +but wait the arrival of the Commissioners and Chinese +forces. I, intending to follow in the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, returned +to Hong Kong, and on the 30th hoisted the flag on +board her, and left same afternoon. Whether the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">[235]</span>Commodore thought that I should personally supersede +him in the command, I do not know. When +I arrived at Swatow on the 31st, I found he had +neglected the latter part of his orders, and the +morning after his arrival, without waiting for the +Viceroy’s Commissioners, proceeded to land his +marines and march up the banks to protect the +boats which conveyed the force up the creek that led +to the offending villages.</p> + +<p>At 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> (28th January) an advance was made +on the village of Tang-Tau, which, together with +that of Po-leng, had assisted the villages of Ou-teng-foi +in their attack. These three villages offered more +or less resistance: at each, the inhabitants were first +to open fire, and showed a bold front, but the +Sneiders soon doubled up those who did not take the +earliest opportunity of dispersing as our men advanced. +Tang-Tau was burned. Po-leng was +spared, as the inhabitants made little resistance. Ou-teng-foi, +which was barricaded, had their defences +destroyed, and principal houses burned. It was +difficult to ascertain the amount of loss of the +villagers, as they were smart in carrying off their +killed and wounded, but the Commodore, thinking +they were sufficiently punished, re-embarked and +returned to his ships. No looting of any sort was +allowed, although geese and poultry were in plenty.</p> + +<p>Our casualties were five wounded; the worst being +Lieutenant Herbert Gye, whose face and hands were +badly burned by an explosion of gunpowder lying +loose on the floor of a house he was endeavouring to +set fire to. Lieutenant Aitkin was severely bambooed +before and behind by two Chinamen who rushed on +him unawares, and Lieutenant Lloyd was wounded in +the foot by falling into a cleverly concealed trap +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">[236]</span>armed with a spear and intended for greater mischief.</p> + +<p>The next day, 29th, the headmen of the villages +sent in their submission in the following terms, translated +from the original:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><em>Humble Petition</em>—</p> + +<p>The Inhabitants of Tang-Tau, Po-leng, and Ou-teng-foi.</p> + +<p>On the 8th day of this month, some children, seeing your +great country’s war-boats passing, were much frightened, +and, racing away, foolishly excited our people to attack +them, for which the great army has entered our villages and +punished us.</p> + +<p>We repent our fault fully, and, prostrating ourselves, beg, +undeserved, that mercy may be shown us, and promise that +men and women will, one and all, live peaceably and quietly +for coming generations under your favour.</p> + +<p>Trusting that the great Consul will grant our prayers, etc.</p> +</div> + +<p>Of course the Viceroy, to whom I had promised +that the force I was about to send from Hong Kong +should wait to co-operate with his and his Commissioners, +was greatly disappointed, and I expect our +Minister at Peking (Sir Rutherford Alcock) will be +the same.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 2.</div> + +<p>10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Weighed, and stood out of river +Canton.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 6.</div> + +<p>Arrived at Foochow. Proceeded up river Min, +and anchored off Pagoda.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">[237]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XCVI"> + CHAPTER XCVI + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The Northern Ports</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1869. +Shanghai, +Feb. 21.</div> + +<p><span class='ships'>Salamis</span> arrived at Shanghai; at anchor off naval yard. +When on a visit to Sir Rutherford Alcock at Peking, +in September 1867, he, having been applied to by +the merchants at Chin-kiang on the subject of opening +the Poyang Lake to steam navigation, expressed +a wish that, if an opportunity offered, I should visit +and report on its capabilities. The subject of the +new treaty and fresh ports to be opened having been +discussed by the Chamber of Commerce here, and +affairs either in Japan or China not requiring my immediate +presence, I decided on gratifying a long-cherished +wish of ascending the Yang-tse-kiang as far +as practicable in the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>.</p> + +<p>Mr. Swinhoe, our late Consul at Taiwan, Formosa, +a scholar, linguist, and naturalist, has been selected by +Sir Rutherford to visit and report on such ports as +are most desirable for trade; particularly near that +part of the Great River, the Poyang Lake, and above +Hankow, even as far as the province of Sechuen. In +compliance with the Minister’s request, the <span class='ships'>Opossum</span> +gun-boat waits at Hankow to convey Mr. Swinhoe +whither he will.</p> + +<p>The Shanghai Chamber of Commerce, more particularly +interested in the opening of new treaty ports, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">[238]</span>has selected Mr. Michi, an enterprising traveller, +and well acquainted with the value of teas and silks, +to proceed, at their request, with Mr. Swinhoe. +Another gentleman, Mr. Francis, accompanies them. +The Chamber of Commerce at Shanghai having also +got the firm of Jardine and Company to lend their +small steam-vessel, she will be attached to the <span class='ships'>Opossum</span>, +with such surveying officers as Brooker can dispatch +from the <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span>. Although they will hardly +have time to complete a survey of the river above +Hankow, they will be able to verify that of Captain +Blakiston. On Monday, February 8, we left the +hospitable roof of Mr. Lavers, of the firm of Gilman +and Co., and started in the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Flag in +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, +March.</div> + +<p>The space between Shanghai and Hankow is now +well-beaten ground, owing to the Company’s steamers, +which start both ways every two or three days according +to the freights they ship, carrying a large number +of passengers, the majority of whom are Chinese. +The chief interest to me is that twenty-seven years +ago, when in the <span class='ships'>Dido</span>, we formed one of a large fleet +of upwards of seventy men-of-war and transports, all +of which succeeded in getting up without the use of +steam as far as Nankin, which brought about peace +and the signing of the treaty which bore that name.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 9.</div> + +<p>At sunset on Tuesday the 9th we came to off +Chin-kiang, promising to visit Silver Island on our +return. On the following morning we found that +Mr. Allen, the Vice-Consul, and several other gentlemen, +among whom was a son of my old friend +Carnie of former days at Singapore, hearing of my +weakness that way, had prepared a shooting excursion +to Deer Island, some six miles up the river.</p> + +<p>As they could easily return with the current, we +took the whole party on board the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, and before +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">[239]</span>noon proceeded up the river and anchored off the island, +a long flat of about seven miles by four, and, except +at the time when we arrived, covered with long and +strong reeds, which the natives were cutting for +thatch or fuel, making at same time temporary, but +not uncomfortable, huts to live in. There was no +lack of game or sportsmen, and from the quantity of +firing the bag ought to have been a large one: seven +deer, and a few varieties of duck, teal, and quail, was +the result. The deer were what are called “hog,” +with a coarse rough hair and a peculiar tusk protruding, +boar fashion, from the jaw. We had an agreeable +day and dined together in the wardroom, +the Chin-kiang party not leaving until late.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Nankin, +Mar. 11.</div> + +<p>Weighed at daylight, and came to off Nankin, +but not in time to perform an excursion to the Ming +Tombs; people wishing to visit these comfortably +should write beforehand and have ponies or chairs +ready. We mounted the city wall on the highest point +of the hill to the eastward, the view from whence gives +a good idea of the vast extent of water and of the +desolation inside. Fresh-looking ship guns marked +U.S.R.M., which I read “United States Republic +Marine,” were mounted and brought to bear on the +only anchorage fit for ships of any size; they were +about 42-pounders, of a pattern now obsolete, and had +evidently been placed since the visit of the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>.</p> + +<p>Having been on the top of the great Porcelain +Tower when it stood prominent in its magnificence, +I did not care to go now, as travellers do, to seek +for bricks among its ruins.</p> + +<p>I have a printed copy of a letter addressed +by the Shanghai General Chamber of Commerce +to W. H. Medhurst, Esq., in reply to an application +from our Minister at Peking, in which they +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">[240]</span>enumerate the different ports they think desirable +should be opened. Among them is Wu-hu. +Wu-hu is situated about two miles above the +mouth of a tributary stream, on the right bank +of the Yang-tse, about sixty miles above Nankin.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 12.</div> + +<p>We anchored off this for a couple of hours on the +afternoon of the 12th, when I proceeded up the creek +with Swinhoe, Dob Crosbie, and the pilot, and landed +near the walled town. The whole right bank, and part +of the left, had trading junks thickly stowed side by side +with ends on to the shore, which gave proof of a vast +amount of commerce; while, judging from the +buildings in progress, both city and suburbs were +gradually recovering from the effects of the late Civil +War.</p> + +<p>It is curious to note that early travellers in China +have described the country as either a “vast plain” or +“an enormous fertile valley.” More variation of +surface, perhaps, does not appear in any country, +and where we should be most inclined to look for +such features, namely on its great artery, it is +diversified enough to please the most exacting of +tourists.</p> + +<p>Commencing at the mouth of the Yang-tse-kiang, +there is naturally a considerable extent of flat alluvial +land, the delta of the river, where once, no doubt the +ocean held its sway. But soon we come to hills +and high lands, and at Chin-kiang the eye is delighted +with the steep and rugged cliffs. About Nankin the +country is prettily broken into ridges and hills, and +before reaching far above this, mountains shut in the +river on either side.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 13.</div> + +<p>On the afternoon of the 13th we passed close to +Nankin (pronounced and spelt Bankin by our civil +and communicative pilot, with a strong nasal twang), +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">[241]</span>such as might be found in the United States, and +to which I have ceased to object. He had often +passed up here during the wars in 1861, in a vessel +that was always ready to supply with “munitions” +the side that could pay best.</p> + +<p>He pointed out the fort close to the river bank on +the east side of the Pagoda, once in possession of the +Imperialists, while the rebels held the city, the nearest +wall of which was not a quarter of a mile distant. +There were also the stern posts to which two +rebel chiefs had been chained until released by death. +The city subsequently surrendered, when every living +soul was put to death, and for weeks after, decapitated +bodies infested the river for miles. It was on passing +these batteries that Lord Elgin was fired at, on which +occasion young Birch, who had been one of my +youngsters in the <span class='ships'>Raleigh</span>, lost an arm.</p> + +<p>Our pilot not being quite as much at home as +those who work the trading steamers, we always came +to in the evening; besides, our hurry was not such as +to prevent one seeing what was to be seen during +daylight.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 14.</div> + +<p>Weighing on 14th, by a little after 11 o’clock we +came up with one of the most picturesque objects on the +river, a rock rising abruptly, called the “Little Orphan”; +but the day was dull and a mist hung over the adjacent +country: the right thing would have been to ascend a +small pagoda on the top and enjoy a splendid view. +Shortly afterwards we saw the Orphan Rock in the +entrance of the Poyang Lake, standing in bold relief, +the guardian of the passage. On the left of the entrance +is Hu-kau, a temple within a high picturesque wall, +where resides a Chinese Admiral with his war junks.</p> + +<p>The legend of the Orphan Rock, told us by the pilot, +is, that in bygone ages a Chinaman, with his wife and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">[242]</span>two children, was crossing the river, when his boat was +upset in a storm. The parents at once sank, but a +kind turtle rising to the surface, took the children on his +back, and instead of making for the shore, appears to +have swum up stream, when after a while one of the +children slipped off and was drowned, when there +arose the rock now called “The Little Orphan.” +The turtle then made for the Poyang Lake with his +second charge, but before he reached the shoal the +other child fell off at the spot where the rock rose out +of the water called “The Great Orphan.” The +benevolent turtle then died too, and his broken heart +formed a huge rock not far from the resting-place of +the lost child.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Sunday.</div> + +<p>We anchored off Chin-kiang as the bell was tolling +for afternoon service. Our appearance had +caused the clergyman to delay the service twenty +minutes, but as we were not informed, his kind intention +was lost on us. This was one of the open +ports selected on the river. Like most of the towns on +the southern bank of the Yang-tse, it had been in the +hands of the rebels, the effects of whose ravages +were apparent. It is a neat little settlement, with +European-looking houses, a Bund in front, and the +handsome range of Lien-Shan mountains for a background. +The merchants here had long been aware +of the advantages to trade that would accrue by the +opening of a port or ports on the Poyang Lakes, +with permission to ply steamers either as traders or +tugs. As yet the Chinese authorities, blind to their +advantage, have been opposed to the use of steam in +the inner waters.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 15.</div> + +<p>With the assistance of the <span class='ships'>Faust</span>, a small steamboat +of about forty tons, kindly lent us by Jardine +Mathieson’s firm at Shanghai, it was my intention +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">[243]</span>to have explored this lake, and I determined to +wait her arrival. She was to have followed us +in tow of one of the American steamers that run +between Hankow and Shanghai. This proposed +expedition caused no small sensation in the settlement. +Those who could not get stowed away on +board the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, got ready their house-boats; two +started for the scene of action at once, as they knew +their craft were of too frail a construction to stand a +tug of a greater rate than three knots per hour.</p> + +<p>While detained waiting for the <span class='ships'>Faust</span>, several shooting +parties went forth, but with small results; those +who went prepared only for snipe fell in with duck, +and <i lang='la'>vice versa</i>. However, a little earlier in the +season, game of all sorts must be plentiful. Pheasants, +ducks, teal, and the hog deer were to be purchased.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 17.</div> + +<p>The steamer from Shanghai arrived on the 17th, +but without the <span class='ships'>Faust</span>, owing to a defect in her +machinery. I therefore determined on proceeding +for Hankow without further delay, promising, if +possible, to explore the Poyang on my return, when +we shall have the advantage of several feet rise of +water.</p> + +<p>4.15 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Slipped from buoy to run up as far as +we could before dark, so as to ensure our reaching +Hankow on the following day.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 18.</div> + +<p>Weighed at five. We soon came to the most +beautiful scenery we had yet met with. High hills +rising immediately from the bank, with woods, a great +improvement on the shrubs we had hitherto passed. +The Spit Rock is a peculiar feature in a narrow +pass. The high-water line was distinctly marked on +the rocks some twenty feet above where we were. +Among the curious things we met were immense +timber rafts, each with its street of wooden houses. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">[244]</span>We came to off Hankow. Found <span class='ships'>Opossum</span> and a +Russian gunboat, an old acquaintance of the Gulf of +Tartary.</p> + +<p>The good people of Hankow are noted for their +hospitality, and before leaving Shanghai, quarters +were offered us in both the houses of Jardine and +Mathieson, and Gilman and Co. We had agreed +with Mr. Lavers to go to whichever house we should +inconvenience the least, and they were to settle it +between them. We were claimed by Mr. and Mrs. +Ramsay, old friends of Mr. Gilman. A good fellow, +Mr. Beveridge of Jardine’s house, expressed great disappointment +at our not going to him, but most kindly +took instead the whole of my staff, including Dob.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Hankow.</div> + +<p>Hankow is only separated from Wu-chang and +Han-yang by the Han and Yang-tse rivers. The +surrounding country is flat, and as I could not look +with commercial eyes on the adjacent cities, with their +numerous junks that lined the shore, especially at the +junction of the Han, where they seemed to form a +deadlock, I am afraid I was a little disappointed +with the celestial emporium. On shore, and along +the walls, the high-water mark was clearly defined; +about every three or four years the country is inundated, +without, however, affecting the health of the +place. Our countrywomen, and particularly the +children, looked fresh and blooming.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">[245]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XCVII"> + CHAPTER XCVII + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Memories of Gordon</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1869. +Hankow, +Mar. 19</div> + +<p>Mr. Caine, the Consul, and son of my old friend of +former China days, having given notice of my intention +the day previous, at 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> we crossed the +river to Wu-chang, that I might pay my respects to +the Viceroy. Besides the Consul and myself our +party consisted of Swinhoe, Mr. Davenport, the +consular interpreter, and Keppel Garnier, Flag Lieutenant. +The Viceroy was Li Hung Chang, who had +fought for eighteen years against the Tai-peng rebels +and was considered the first general in the Imperialist +Army.</p> + +<p>Gordon had held a command as brigadier-general +under him, and Li it was who so treacherously put +to death Lar Wang and nine of the rebel chiefs at +the surrender of Soo-chow, on 7th December 1863, +although Gordon had pledged himself for their safety. +The only time that Gordon was known to carry +arms were the two days after the execution of the +Wangs, when, had he fallen in with Li, there would +have been two holes in Li’s yellow waistcoat!</p> + +<p>Besides my curiosity to see this celebrated +scoundrel, I wanted the loan of a most convenient +little steamer, the <span class='ships'>Hyson</span>, now lying in the river, +which had performed such wonderful feats in co-operation +with Gordon during the war.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_246">[246]</span></p> + +<p>We landed about a quarter of a mile below a +pagoda, just built or renovated, on the point where +the city wall touches the river. Chairs, with the +official number of bearers, were found ready, proceeded +at once inside the city walls to the Viceroy’s +Yamun. There was the usual rush of guards and +deliberation before the outer gates were opened, +although we were only punctual to our time.</p> + +<p>There is a regular etiquette on all ceremonial visits +as to how far you may advance in your chair towards +the first door of the three apartments, at which you +are met by the person you visit.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Wu-chang.</div> + +<p>I received the honour due to the highest rank, +and was placed on a raised platform on the left of the +Viceroy Li. Tea was ready, and another table with +sweetmeats—the usual compliments of asking your +age, health, and the balance of your family.</p> + +<p>Before I proceeded to announce my intention of +proceeding up the river, His Excellency hoped I +would not attempt to do so, urging that the natives +were troublesome and unaccustomed to foreigners, +and he could not be responsible for them. I replied +that I had no fear with the passport of so great a +man. To this he made objections and excuses. We +then gathered round the sweetmeats and replied to +numerous questions about armament and guns, all +showing a warlike tendency.</p> + +<p>Viceroy Li is a tall, hard-looking man, and I +should think quite capable of ridding himself and +his country of any number of rebel kings, whether a +British officer had become security or not. He +seemed to take a great fancy to my Bath Star, and +said he should recommend me to the Emperor for +the distinguished order of the Imperial Dragon.</p> + +<p>Our interview lasted for over an hour.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">[247]</span></p> + +<p>We took our departure for the residence of the +Reverend Mr. John, one of the greatest travellers +in China, at whose house we found a real English +luncheon. He had a pretty, lively little daughter +and a wife who shared his labours. Mr. John afterwards +accompanied us to the curio-shops, which were +poorly provided and inferior to those in Hankow. +He gave us much valuable information from the +experience he had gained in the Upper Yang-tse, +and seemed to think the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> would have little +difficulty in getting up to I-Chang, about 15 miles +below the first rapids.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 20.</div> + +<p>Among those we visited was the Russian Consul, +who concocted a delicious beverage out of some rare +green tea; so scarce that in a twelvemonth he could +seldom succeed in getting more than 120 lbs., and +that went to Russia for the Emperor’s use. There +are several Russian merchants who have been located +for years in the interior cities carrying on an extensive +trade in furs, as well as silks and tea.</p> + +<p>Russians appear to have a greater facility in acquiring +languages than other nations. In spite of +the rain, cold, and damp, and anything but the best +of meat, certainly the worst of cooking, we enjoyed +ourselves.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Hankow, +Mar. 21.</div> + +<p><i>Sunday.</i>—We were astonished at the appearance, +before tiffin, of our mail from England, four days +before the expected time. Two Admirals dead, and +I top of list of Vice; <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> ordered home.</p> + +<p>There is a neat little church in course of construction. +Clergyman a Mr. MacClatchy; his wife a +sister of Sir Harry Parkes.</p> + +<p>Of course there was a race-course, an agreeable +and innocent amusement, our host being among +the light weights and about the best rider. The old +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">[248]</span>course was outside the city walls, on a flat some 12 +miles in extent with scarcely a tree to be seen. In +winter, I am told, the flat is covered with bustards, +geese, and hares.</p> + +<figure class='figleft' id='i_248'> + <img class='v50' src='images/i_248.jpg' alt=''> + <figcaption>May and Webb.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>The vessel that brought the mail did not bring +the long-expected +<span class='ships'>Faust</span>, and our departure +was deferred. +The good Doctor +Gregory kindly volunteering +to look +after my belongings, +we left them, with +the worthy Webb +to help: it was not +so bad an arrangement.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 24.</div> + +<p>At 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> the +<span class='ships'>Fusiama</span> steamer +put in an appearance, +with the <span class='ships'>Faust</span> +in tow. She was +quickly in readiness +to proceed, but Risk +had too much work +to get through, so +the early morning +was fixed for our +next start. <i lang='fr'>En route</i> +to take leave of the children, found them with Webb +in sad distress over a string of rats secured by wire +to a six-foot stick. With the <span class='ships'>Faust</span> came up two +surveying officers, Dawson from <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span>, and Palmer, +who had been serving in the <span class='ships'>Insolent</span> at Chefoo. +We managed to get two Chinese pilots, who knew +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_249">[249]</span>something of the river as far as Yoh-chow, at the +entrance of the Tung-ting Lake. We had also our +Shanghai pilot, Mr. Pendleton, an intelligent man, experienced +in river navigation. With all this staff, +and the <span class='ships'>Opossum</span> some days ahead to look out +for difficulties, the knowing ones were betting that +I should never reach I-Chang. There is a good and +well-conducted club at Hankow.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 25.</div> + +<p>At 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> we had taken leave of the children and +friends; a few minutes after we were on our way to +the interior of the Celestial Empire—<span class='ships'>Faust</span>, and a +native boat hired by Messrs. Francis and Michi to +sleep in, in tow. Cannot say much for the interesting +scenery, for though the whole country is scarcely +raised above the level of the river from July to +October, at the present time we were twenty feet +below. Except where there was a village we were +steaming between mud walls, on the top of which a +few natives, or a boy on a buffalo with the sky for a +background, appeared, to break the monotony. When +I say between mud walls, the river was seldom less +than half a mile wide. We anchored at sunset, having +had much bother with the hired native boat. These +craft are loosely put together, and do not stand +towing at any speed. This one looked like a lashed-up +hammock. The woman on board with a child in her +arms roared to be released, declaring the boat was +filling and calling to her countrymen on the banks to +come to her rescue; but when Messrs Michi and +Francis went on board the boat was found to be all +right, no attention was paid to her, while she continued +to roar and wipe her tears with the arm of her +child, while her crew joined in chorus: one of them, +to prove his distress, lay on his back kicking the air +with his nailed boots.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_250">[250]</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">Tung-ting +Lake, +Mar. 26.</div> + +<p>At about 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> we had struck off from the +Yang-tse to go down the branch that leads to the +Tung-ting Lake, and five miles farther came to off +Yo-chow, situated at the outlet. A high wall hid +from our view the city, which appears to have been +built on a bluff; for healthiness it must be as well, +or better, than any of the towns we had passed. +Yo-chow is the great port for the wealthy province of +Hainan, and I should imagine well adapted for one of +the Treaty Ports, but, opening it would shut up +Hankow, where sufficient money has already been +expended.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Yo-chow.</div> + +<p>There was a good assortment of trading junks; +two customs Government boats were showily decorated, +the Captain was entertaining a tea party. Our +surveying officers landed to take sights for chronometers +and soon collected a crowd, some of whom, +when the officers had picked up their instruments +and turned their backs to go down to the boat, began +hooting and throwing stones, a number of specimens +of which were brought on board; some of them +quite big enough to have knocked a man off his +thwart.</p> + +<p>Observing what was going on, I ordered a blank +gun to be fired to remind them that we were a vessel-of-war, +and might pitch something into them that would +hit harder than stones. I asked Swinhoe, who was +just shoving off from the ship, to go alongside the +Government vessel and demand an explanation. The +Captain, who was at that moment sitting down to +entertain his guests, said that, seeing the gathering of +roughs that was taking place, he had despatched a +messenger to the Prefect, telling him of the outrage +and recommending his sending down a force to keep +the peace; informing him that a great British +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">[251]</span>Admiral had arrived with a thousand men, and that +he would assuredly avenge the insult.</p> + +<p>Swinhoe informed this officer he had better go on +board and explain matters to the Admiral. The +customs official, who had some misgivings as to the +propriety of trusting himself within the power of an +incensed British Admiral, hesitated. He held many +consultations with his guests, and they all appeared +to think he ran great risk; but on Swinhoe assuring +him that he could not answer for the consequences +if he did not go and explain, at the end of three-quarters +of an hour he figged himself up with another +cup of tea, and, taking his pink-buttoned hat, +with its hanging feather, like a fox’s brush, he +resigned himself to his fate, took leave of his +fat friends and descended with Swinhoe into the +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span> boat.</p> + +<p>Seeing him coming, I had only just time to put +on uniform and a <em>war</em> expression, when he was +ushered on board.</p> + +<p>After the usual “chin chin,” we were seated opposite +one another, when he broke out in a nervous, +but loud voice to explain matters. I informed him +that it was a very serious offence; that by treaty a +man-of-war was allowed to go to any part of China +and have protection; that the affair at Swatow commenced +in the same way by some roughs, over whom +the authorities professed to have no control, throwing +stones, which ended in my having to destroy three +large towns, with great loss of life to the inhabitants.</p> + +<p>I told him, in this case, one presumed the Governor +was not aware we were coming, and I should +content myself with reporting to Peking the treatment +my officers, while unarmed, had received. I +requested the official to inform the Governor that, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">[252]</span>when I returned, a life would, probably, be taken +for every stone thrown! He then thanked me for +my forbearance, and, I imagine, was glad when he +found himself again with his tea party.</p> + +<p>Having landed our Hankow pilots, failed in +getting others for I-Chang, but as we got our sights, +there was no further cause for detention. The ill +feeling by a few roughs was anything but the prevailing +one among the natives, who swarmed alongside +to see the ship, bringing vegetables and sweetmeats +for sale.</p> + +<p>Two or three boats full of the fishing cormorants +amused us amazingly: they had probably been fishing +in the clear waters of the lake. The birds were +perched all over the boat, on the gunnels, on the top +of the covering, or anywhere they could get a footing. +Although each had a small line to one leg, none of +them were secured; there were perhaps twenty in +each boat.</p> + +<p>The fish they had caught were of various sorts, +and, strange to say, the perch, with its prickly fin, +that a pike will refuse to touch, was not the least +common among those in the tub; in fact, while +the man was holding the fish-tub, one of the +cormorants shoved his beak in and seized a +large perch. He, in his turn, was seized by the +throat and made to disgorge. I noticed that the +man cleverly turned the fish round in the throat of +the cormorant, so that it came out head foremost. +It would have puzzled the cormorant to have got rid +of it otherwise, unless the perch had gone clean +through him. I was anxious to ascertain how the +Chinaman prevented the fish passing into the stomach +of the cormorant, and found that it was by a twist of +straw tied just tight enough round the lower part of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">[253]</span>the neck to hold a fish of about 3/4 lb. When we +started I daresay the roughs went home rejoicing, +thinking they had driven us away. We weighed +about an hour before sunset, and turned down +the stream to where we had diverged from the +Yang-tse, in which we brought up for the night.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 27.</div> + +<p>We weighed at daylight, with Blakiston’s geographical +flying survey of the river as our only guide. +This, officers had enlarged to a scale of one inch to the +mile. We managed between 70 and 80 miles the +first day, without accident beyond that of fouling a +junk that persisted in placing itself under our bows, +turn which way we would. No great damage done: +a Chinaman was knocked overboard from the junk, +but he managed to take a plank with him. It is +so seldom that a Chinaman ever helps a drowning +man, that we stopped a few minutes until we saw +him picked up.</p> + +<p>There was but little variety in the scenery. One +remarkable object was the skeleton of a large forest +tree, noticed also by Blakiston. The only way to +account for its standing alone in a country where fuel +is scarce, is that it must have been struck by lightning, +when it would be considered a thing accursed! If a +junk is struck by lightning she is deserted. Porpoises +continued to tumble over, and bottles that floated +past gave indication that we were not the first +Europeans up the Yang-tse.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Sunday, +Mar. 28.</div> + +<p>As if to made up for our good fortune on the +previous day, we frequently touched the bottom. +Came to at Shi-show.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 29.</div> + +<p>We had gone but a short distance after daylight +when we suddenly came into shoal water. The +vessel was quickly stopped and her head put at +another point without success. This operation was +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">[254]</span>repeated four times, each attempt a little farther +towards mid-channel. Whether the commander was +losing patience, and made the last more spitefully +than before, he certainly managed to fix her as firmly +as on a rock on a sandbank about mid-channel. +Every attempt to heave her off after lightening +failed; but the <span class='ships'>Opossum</span> had orders not to proceed +farther than where there was a channel for us, and she +must be some way ahead. A sandbank soon formed +on the side opposite to the current, on which the +men walked; but this, our experienced American +pilot assured us, was a matter of course, on +grounding on a sandbank in a river with a rapid +current.</p> + +<p>The <span class='ships'>Faust</span> was got ready and preparing for a +start to Shi-show for junks, by which we might +lighten ourselves, when the outline of three Europeans, +with the sky for a background, appeared on the edge +of the bank which formed our mud wall. They were +from the <span class='ships'>Opossum</span>, having heard from a native boat +of our position. On consultation, it was decided that +our case was merely one that required patience: the +current would take its time, and eventually release +us; we might be twisted about and fresh banks +appear, but in the end we should be floated off, and +none the worse.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 30.</div> + +<p>Shooting parties landed, bringing on board a +tolerable bag: ducks and teal had not yet taken +their departure for their summer abode; several +pheasants, hares, and snipe. We supplied <span class='ships'>Opossum</span> +with what coal she could stow, while her native pilot +held out hopes of taking us up to I-Chang.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Mar. 31.</div> + +<p>Shortly before 4 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>, the rush of the stream +chain through the hawse-hole, and a tremulous +motion, informed me that we were off the bank, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">[255]</span>while the other bower anchor brought us up in the +channel. It took us the remainder of the day to +recover our anchors, stream chain, and hawsers. On +the Sabbath afternoon I invited Risk, my secretary, +to accompany me in a stroll. My feelings were +shocked to see him, on landing, produce a gun and +well-stocked bag of cartridges, while Ponto, a pointer, +but a still better retriever, soon came on the scent of +game. Snipe and teal got up in twos and threes, a +fair proportion falling to Risk’s gun. The temptation +was too much for me. Borrowing the gun, +while Risk looked on, in the course of a few +moments I returned him an empty cartridge bag. +Fortunately he had a few cartridges left, and was +rewarded by a brace or two of pheasants on the +homeward journey. The spring snipe afford splendid +shooting, even up to May, as they work north to +their breeding grounds by easy stages. The birds +are nearly double the ordinary size, the result, I +presume, of good feeding in the pâdi-fields. Bags of +even fifty couple a gun await a good shot.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_256">[256]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XCVIII"> + CHAPTER XCVIII + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Yang-tse-kiang Trip</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1869. +April 1.</div> + +<p>Pilot on board; we were ready for a further start +up the river, but found I had been imposed on. The +pilot had agreed to take us as far as Shi-show, but +had not stated when he could take us on to I-Chang. +As time was the only thing of which I had none to +spare, I-Chang had to be given up. In September +and October, I believe the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> might be brought +up as far as the first rapids. Swinhoe, the two surveying +officers, Dawson and Palmer, and the two +representatives of the Chamber of Commerce at +Shanghai, had to be transferred to the <span class='ships'>Faust</span> and +<span class='ships'>Opossum</span>, and in exchange we received our navigating +Lieutenant, Taylor. I doubt the Yang-tse +being navigable except to a peculiar class of +steamer, adapted to the purpose of ascending the +rapids above I-Chang; but that need not prevent +enterprising merchants establishing themselves, as +the Russians have done for years, in the capital and +large cities of the rich province of Se-Chuen; and +they might establish a consul, but it is a question +whether our relations with China are at present such +that our consul and traders would feel secure without +the protection of a gunboat. Regret not being +able to accompany them farther, but having so +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">[257]</span>much interesting work before me, ought not to be +greedy.</p> + +<p>Having seen our friends take their departure in +the <span class='ships'>Faust</span>, we weighed anchor for our return, and +were drifting down broadside on to the stream +without room to go ahead, our stern close to the +bank, which being of mud, I recommended backing +into. Her head immediately paid off down stream, +but my advice had been fatal to further rapid +progress. Although no shock was felt, the rudder’s +head was twisted and the rudder unmanageable. On +examination, it was found we had to drift down. I +did not like to upset the exploring and surveying +expedition by sending for the <span class='ships'>Opossum</span>, but determined +on sending an officer to Hankow for the <span class='ships'>Zebra</span> to +come up to Hankow. Nothing could have been +more unfortunate than this event, or so completely +adapted to upset the arrangements I had made +during the short time I was likely to remain on the +station. The hot season approaching, my anxiety +to get to the northward was great.</p> + +<p>My galley, with Mr. Lee, took her departure at +about 6 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> on a journey of 220 miles to Hankow, +but with a strong current and the prospects of an +occasional lift by sailing.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Apr. 2.</div> + +<p>Our misfortunes had not come to an end. The +morning was fine. We got under way with the +prospects of a good day before us; I had been calculating +with our American pilot whether we should +not be close on our galley at Hankow. We were +coming to a part of the river where there are a succession +of islands a-wash, and we ought to have +crossed to the opposite or right bank of the river. +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span> awkward to handle. The only way the +rudder would act was the wrong one; the American +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">[258]</span>pilot recommended to warp across. The stocks of both +bower anchors had broken. In trying to cross, the +ship grounded on the upper side of the first of the +above-named islands. Our hope was in the rise of +the river, while it was possible that the island might +rise too! We were in a fix. Twelve long days +were spent getting the ship afloat and to rights. The +bank shifting occasionally, moved the position.</p> + +<p>On the 14th the house-boat <span class='ships'>Fanny</span> arrived from +Hankow. Risk and ourselves went down in her to +Hankow, arriving on the 18th. The <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> followed +three days later, when the flag was rehoisted.</p> + +<p>On the 25th the French man-of-war <span class='ships'>Flamon</span> +arrived, saluted us, and also, with three guns, the late +Viceroy’s wife and son on their departure. Weighed +and arrived at Shanghai on the 27th.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Apr. 30.</div> + +<p><span class='ships'>Salamis</span> paid off: recommissioned by Commander +Miller.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 11.</div> + +<p>Transferred wife and children with Flag-Lieutenant +to the care of my kind friend Raby in the <span class='ships'>Adventure</span>, +and steamed down the Woosung.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 15.</div> + +<p>Came to off Chefoo, a pretty port with red cliffs +and good beaches. Found Lord Charles Scott in the +<span class='ships'>Icarus</span>. Went on in the afternoon and arrived off +Taku in time to pick up our old pilot Bandi. +Crossed the bar of the Peiho with the flood-tide, +which we carried for 40 miles, making with three +boilers, for one hour, over 30 miles.</p> + +<p>Started again at daylight and got to Tientsin at +9.30, having fouled but one junk and only touching +the bottom once.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">May 17.</div> + +<p>Mr. Morgan, the Consul, lost no time in making +arrangements for our start for Peking. Our party +consisted of Charlie Scott, Miller, Risk, and Dob +Crosbie, my nephew. We had six boats, covered in +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_259">[259]</span>and convenient for sleeping, another for cooking, +one for servants. A Commander-in-Chief could not +travel without a mandarin, who arranged everything +and saved much trouble and annoyance. Mandarin +Chaing Lao (the fifth of the brothers Chaing) arrived +about 6 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, and we then spent the next forty-eight +hours going up the Peiho, carried by the flood +through the crowds of junks which nearly block up +the river. The crew were willing enough as long as +time was allowed them for “chow-chow” and smoke. +We travelled all night.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">May 19.</div> + +<p>We might have reached Tung-Chow this evening, +but as the gates of Peking are closed at 6 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, we +enjoyed a quiet night by stopping short of the town.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Peking, +May 20.</div> + +<p>Peking.—We had not arrived many minutes +before Sir Rutherford’s stud-groom, with two mounted +orderlies, arrived, bringing letters from His Excellency, +stating that horses had been sent on over night. +Carts for our luggage would leave Peking early in the +morning. “Don Juan,” the same horse I rode during +our delightful excursion into Mongolia in 1867, was +sent for me. By 9 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> we were at the British Legation, +received with the same welcome and hospitality I had +experienced when last here. Conolly took care of +Risk; the rest of us were distributed over the Legation. +I was in my old quarters. The baths were luxuries +after our journey, for the water of the Peiho is too +muddy for bathing. Lady Alcock and her daughter +joined us at the 12 o’clock breakfast: the latter a +bright, pretty girl, nice to everybody. Those who +had not been in Peking before were shown the sights +within reach by Conolly. I had much to discuss +with Sir Rutherford. We agreed that although our +late proceedings had not been approved of by the +Foreign Office, what we did was for the best, and so +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">[260]</span>far from drawing the country into war, the steps +taken were the only ones that averted such a misfortune. +Went to see the Joss that the Sergeant of +Minister’s Bodyguard has brought for me.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>I sent a photograph of it to General Knollys. It +came home in the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> and is now comfortably +housed at Sandringham.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>The interpretation of the inscription at the foot of +the Joss is as follows:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Respectfully made on a lucky day of the tenth month +of the twenty-eighth year of His Majesty K’-ang-Hsi.</p> +</div> + +<p>In English dates, October or November 1690.</p> + +<p>The dinner-party this evening included Mr. and +Mrs. Robert Hart. He holds a high position in the +Imperial Customs, and has control over a larger +revenue than was ever held by a foreigner in China, +or perhaps any other country. Hart has the appointing +of all the heads for collecting the foreign duties, +as well as of the Harbour Masters and Commanders +of Revenue cruisers. He chooses the positions and +raising of lighthouses as well as the placing of lightships. +Two years ago he applied to me for opinions +respecting the proper positions of these lights, which +I directed Commander Brooker to furnish. He took +great pains and wrote several folios of information on +the subject.</p> + +<p>I was gratified to learn that Hart had, upon +my recommendation, reserved the appointment of +Commander of a revenue boat, with £800 a year, +for my old friend Claude de Crespigny. Dob +Crosbie, who had kindly undertaken the duties of +Master of the Horse to the Commander-in-Chief, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">[261]</span>took an early ride with Conolly to the Horse Bazaar +to look for a quiet pony or two. He got hold of a +fairish Dun, which is docile enough, I think, to carry +Colin at Yokohama.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 23.</div> + +<p>To forenoon church—a modest little building +with no appearance of extra ceremonies.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 24.</div> + +<p>Our traps started by early carts for Tung-Chow. +The Joss went off on Saturday. Sir Rutherford +directed that it should be carefully covered with +matting for fear any <i lang='fr'>dévote</i> Chinaman should take +umbrage at a god being removed from the Celestial +Empire. The mandarin who accompanied us was +anxious to know if I should burn incense before it +when I got home. I have no doubt he thought I +was a convert to Buddhism.</p> + +<p>The fur merchants had many pretty things, but I +selected a small piece of the sea-otter skin, sufficient +to make a muff, and was told it was valued above +sable. I had also some commissions with the silk-seller, +and chose some pieces of maize and other +silk, which, as Mr. Pepys would have said in his +diary, “did me much pleasure.”</p> + +<p>After <i lang='fr'>déjeuner</i> we took leave of our friends, and +mounted our horses to ride quietly back, much tried +by hot wind and clouds of dust. Ice, however, was +plentiful and cheap. Late in the evening our small +fleet was again under way, increased now by two +more boats containing the Joss and sundry carved +stones. We had likewise to distribute through the +fleet 8 good-sized cages, containing 16 pheasants +from Mongolia for my friend Tom de Grey. +“Crossoptelon Manchuricum” worth “some” should +they reach England alive. Drank Her Majesty’s +health <i lang='fr'>en route</i> with honours.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Peiho +River +to +Tientsin, +May 25.</div> + +<p>This has been a scorching sun with a burning +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">[262]</span>wind, while hot sand found its way into the interior +of our boats, as well as into our eyes and everything +we ate or drank. We managed a walk of two or +three miles, which can always be accomplished without +detaining the boats by watching on the chart (the +Admiralty one is very good) where the river takes +an unusual sweep round, when you walk across to +the nearest point. No rain having fallen for three +weeks, the ground was hard and hot; and the +natives anticipated a bad harvest.</p> + +<p>Among the odds and ends one sees in the shops +in Peking, nothing is more curious, as well as absurd, +than the children’s toys. Conolly’s Chinese servant +was put in requisition to make a double collection—one +for our children and the other for them to send +by the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> to numerous cousins.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 26.</div> + +<p>It was near midnight before we got alongside the +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">[263]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XCIX"> + CHAPTER XCIX + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Chefoo to Japan</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1869. +Flag in +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, +May 27.</div> + +<p>Before starting for Peking, I informed the Consul at +Tientsin of my intention to pay, on my return, my +respects to Tchung-How, the same Governor that +was here when I was in the <span class='ships'>Dido</span>, and, with the +exception of the Viceroy at Canton, the most finished +Chinese gentleman I had met. In reply to the +Consul’s message, Tchung-How hoped we would not +be late as he had to pray for rain.</p> + +<p>Scott attended on my visit to His Excellency, who +lived two miles away on the opposite side of the +river. Tchung-How, in addition to being Governor, +is superintendent of trade and junior guardian of the +heir-apparent. Mr. Morgan acted as interpreter. +We were received with the usual courtesy, the +Viceroy holding his hands before him and bending +forward at each door. In the inner room we had +tea, and then, in the second, champagne and fruit. +Made the visit short, and was glad to get away; +having exchanged into lighter clothing, visited curio +shops, in which there was a sad falling off; dealers in +furs and skins charged double what they did in Peking.</p> + +<p>Had still to return the visit of the Russian Consul +C. Skottschkoff. He has a Cossack look about him; +his wife, not being got up to receive visitors, disappeared +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_264">[264]</span>by an opposite door, but I believe she is +pretty and speaks English. Our Consul and his +wife joined us at dinner; she made herself very +agreeable.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 28.</div> + +<p>Made an early start with the hopes of crossing the +bar in the afternoon, but the pilot, I believe from the +want of his accustomed cocktail, failed in nerve and +muddled us twice; by dark we came to, a little more +than halfway down the Peiho.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Peiho-Taku +Forts, +May 29.</div> + +<p>Started early, but not in time to save the tide over +the bar; a bore, am anxious to get north. We brought +up close to the celebrated Taku Forts, that the +squadron under Sir James Hope had such good +reason to remember. Some of our officers landed, +and no objection was made to their inspecting forts. +They report them as in good repair, guns mounted +and ammunition ready, but nothing heavier than +32-pounders, evidently taken from our gunboats, +having the “V.R.” on them; but these will be +retaken before long!</p> + +<p>The European in charge of signal station +stated that the garrisons, formerly thirty or forty +in each fort, had within the last month been +increased to 800 soldiers in one and 600 in the +other. The coolies state that all foreigners are +shortly to be driven out of China. I believe they +are conceited enough to attempt it. Secret copies +of some of Commissioner Li’s correspondence had +reached our Embassy at Peking. If anything is to +take place, I hope it may come off in my time; I am +confident that a war would eventually benefit both +sides.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>May 30.</div> + +<p>Read prayers to ship’s company. At 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> came +to at Chefoo. The mail had arrived from England. +Discussions had taken place in Parliament in which the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_265">[265]</span>Duke of Somerset and Lord Clarendon proved how +mistaken they were regarding the state of China. +An <em>apology</em> was to be sent to the Chinese Government +for our “mistake” in Formosa!</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Chefoo, +May 31.</div> + +<p>Inspected Charles Scott’s <span class='ships'>Icarus</span>; as I expected, +found her in perfect order.</p> + +<p>The coaling of the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> painfully slow; lazy +coolies passing the coal on board in small baskets +holding less than a shovelful each. Operation completed +by 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> Having laid in a stock of sheep +and poultry, started for Japan.</p> + +<p>Markham informed me that a Russian corvette +had been at Chefoo with a live bear and a lion’s skin +for me from friend Etholin of Vladivostock. They +went on to Shanghai, where I hope they will be put +into the <span class='ships'>Juno</span>.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 4.</div> + +<p>Got through the Simonoseki Straits before dark. +Once more the inland sea; at no time of the year can +it look more beautiful; crops ripening and the green +grass and trees in all the freshness of spring. At 4.30 +entered the far-famed whirlpool passage, but it was +time of neap tides and the flood was within an hour +of its making, which it does two hours after high +water. It required close watching and quick helm to +prevent being slewed broadside on by the “Chow-Chow” +water. It is safest to pass through with the +current.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Yokohama, +June 6.</div> + +<p>By daylight we were standing into the Bay of +Yedo; <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>, <span class='ships'>Adventure</span>, and <span class='ships'>Cormorant</span> +made their numbers. We passed under the stern of +the old <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, where the band and officers were +on the poop to welcome the old Chief. Steamed +ahead of the stately <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> and came to before 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> +Found the wife and children well and happy at the +Legation House. Sir Harry Parkes absent in Yedo, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_266">[266]</span>but everything done to make us feel at home. +Denison had come out by mail, at his own expense, +to take command of <span class='ships'>Cormorant</span>, as her paying-off +was to be here. Flag hoisted on board <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Flag in +<span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, +June 7.</div> + +<p>The French commodore and captains, as well as +Dutch and American senior officers, visited <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>. +All the heads of departments had already visited, and +been attentive to the wife on her arrival.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 8.</div> + +<p>Accompanied by Heneage, returned calls of the +French, American, and Netherlands commanders; +the two former giving me a personal salute. The +small arms men and marines from <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> and <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>, +4047 tons, Captain Stanhope, landed and went through +their evolutions, to the admiration of Colonel Norman +of the 9th Regiment (The Norfolk). The field-pieces +were beautifully worked. I was mounted on +Sir Harry Parkes’s charger, which, however, refused to +stand fire. I have had the house built snug and substantial, +easy to be got rid of! My ponies Tiu and +Ko in the Legation stable, where the poor old grey +given me by Mrs. Fitzroy is dying.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 10.</div> + +<p>Pouring with rain and a gale blowing. We dined +with the Marshalls, plodding there in chairs, ankle +deep in mud. The Normans, Mrs. Alt, Adams, +Stanhope, and Helen were of the party; the dinner, +as usual, excellent, wines to match. Drank the health +of Georgie West, her birthday.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 11.</div> + +<p>Inspected <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>. It is difficult to imagine a cleaner +or more perfect man-of-war. Hard lines, the depriving +me of my flagship! Dined with the Normans +in their barrack hut; every exertion made by kind +hostess to make us enjoy our visit, in which she +perfectly succeeded. At the door on way home met a +youngster with our mail from England.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Yokohama.</div> + +<p>In noting events it is odd I should have omitted the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_267">[267]</span>severest shock of earthquake that I had experienced. +It occurred at 4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> on Monday. I was sitting at +the Legation talking with Risk. The house shook +violently for a quarter of a minute, and after the +lapse of a few seconds went on again, with sounds of +cracking and groaning. Keppel Garnier was with May +at the Marshalls: the bells rang, the house cracked, +and the broken mortar was heard tumbling inside the +walls. Mrs. Marshall seized her baby, and Garnier, +May; both rushed out on to the lawn; raining hard. +At the Club, billiard balls rolled about, and the Japs +deserted the house.</p> + +<p>The mail did not bring much important news. It +was in contemplation at the Admiralty to submit the +names of certain Admirals for the distinction of Grand +Cross of the Bath on Her Majesty’s birthday. Friend +Beauchamp Seymour informs me that, owing to the +Commodore not waiting for the Viceroy’s contingent +for the attack on the villages at Swatow, my name is +not to be sent in!</p> + +<p>Inspected <span class='ships'>Cormorant</span>, a fit pendant to the <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>. +Poor Brand has earned his promotion, if the order of +his ship is any criterion.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 14.</div> + +<p>Early telegraph this morning from <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>: “Many +happy returns of the day to Commander-in-Chief” +from captain and officers. Signalled back “Many +and grateful thanks.” Parkes arrived in evening, +having ridden from Yedo. An 8.30 dinner: glad to +see my friend so well. Most of the naval officers and +other friends called in the course of the day to congratulate +me on my natal day.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 16.</div> + +<p>Having returned all garrison calls, visited the +Foreign Ministers yesterday. The American Minister, +a General, had read the name of his successor—the +only intimation that he was to be relieved. How +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_268">[268]</span>pleasantly governments do things! Parkes is the +only minister who has courage enough to take up +his residence among these turbulent people! Yesterday, +having arranged with Parkes to go to Yedo +with him, found a horse and escort waiting for me at +Kanagava. Without hurrying, caught up Sir Harry +at a half-way tea-house. We were ferried over the +River Rokugo. The supports for a bridge were +standing, one having been built last year for the +Mikado, who was on his way from Osaka to Yedo, +and afterwards pulled down, so that no one else +could take advantage of it.</p> + +<p>We were met at the tea-house by Mr. Sibbald, +interpreter, and young Hodges, studying to become +one; and attended by a mounted escort from Yedo, +as unlike cavalry soldiers as a feminine dress and +diminutive appearance could make them. The present +Legation, although not large, is most pleasantly +situated on high ground, with a flag-staff on which +the flag of <span class='ships'>Perfide Albion</span> may be seen from every +part of Yedo!</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Yedo, +June 18.</div> + +<p>We found Bertram Mitford delightfully situated +on another eminence within a few minutes’ walk, +while Adams had taken possession of the snug little +house formerly occupied by Mitford. A small +cemetery separating the two—most convenient for the +joint mess.</p> + +<p>Sibbald came in during the evening; he had +accompanied the Tycoon’s younger brother in his +travels and visited with him most of the Courts +of Europe. He described the young Jap as intelligent +and shrewd in his remarks, although he got +occasionally bored by over-sightseeing. In answer +to one of his questions why our ladies exposed so +much of their persons in evening dress, he was told, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_269">[269]</span>“Out of compliment to His Highness”; on which he +supposed if his Emperor had been there they would +have come naked! Nor could he understand high +personages dancing: a performance in his country he +paid people for doing.</p> + +<p>Nothing can be cleaner, prettier, or nicer than +these Jap houses for summer residences. The house +at Yokohama, engrossing all the best furniture, the +accommodation here assumed a most agreeable sort +of “roughing it.” A party on horseback, and two +carriages, in one of which Parkes drove my wife, +went to see the tombs of the Shogoons (so Mitford +spells what we pronounce Tycoon, and he is sure to +be right) at Zôôji, at Shiba, the castle, and other +sights in Yedo, which I, fancying I had seen before, +did not join, preferring the cool of the pretty grounds +about the Legation.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 21.</div> + +<p>Have some two days’ back journal to write up. +In the afternoon news reached us of the loss of the +<span class='ships'>Haya Maro</span>, a fine steamer bound to Osaka, which +seems to have struck on the same rock as the <span class='ships'>Nepaul</span> +about two years ago, situated about 200 yards to +the eastward of the well-known Plymouth rocks. +She was going at the rate of 14 knots, her bottom +was torn out and she went down head foremost +in less than five minutes in 40 fathoms water. The +only excuse for cutting the point so close was to +shorten the distance a cable’s length, the captain having +made a bet he would accomplish the voyage to Osaka +in thirty hours. Among the twenty-one lives lost +was an old China friend, Margesson, who dined +with us only a week ago. Poor fellow! after service +as a merchant for some twenty-eight years, he was on +his way home to enjoy the fruits of his labours.</p> + +<p>Our dinner party included Hodges, Doctors Sibly +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">[270]</span>and Willes. Willes had taken service with the +Japanese. Although he frequently attended those +connected with the Court, he had never been allowed +near the Mikado. In fact, even now, if necessary +to feel the Imperial pulse, a piece of tape is fastened +to the wrist and the end is passed through a hole +in the wall into the adjoining room when the doctor +approaches, beating the mats with his head!</p> + +<p>The next day (20th) the launch started, soon +after high water, with the same party she had +brought up, while we waited until Sir Harry Parkes +was ready. I was mounted on the Minister’s pet +grey Arab charger. Mitford kindly accompanied +me part of the way, and cautioned me to be careful +of said charger, he having been down once, and +getting shaky on his legs. We pulled up by the +roadside. There we found a square plot fenced +round as sacred, the Mikado having condescended +to alight on that place. In another direction a +rustic bridge was stopped up, the Imperial foot +having passed over it.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Rokugo, +Japan, to +Yokohama.</div> + +<p>The carriage with Parkes and my wife reached +the ferry at Rokugo just as I got to the other side. +The river is called Tama Gawa (jewel river). We +both nearly came to grief; in spite of all Mitford’s +caution and my care, the beautiful grey fell, as if +shot, in the streets of Yokohama, cutting both knees. +Those only who have ridden their friends’ favourite +horse, with a similar catastrophe, can understand +my feelings. When I broke the fact to Sir Harry, +instead of wishing that it had been my neck +instead of his horse’s knees, he merely “hoped I had +escaped unhurt.” In the carriage they had had a +narrow escape: one of the ponies, a bumptious beast, +that never neared another animal without apparently +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">[271]</span>wishing to eat it, stopped on meeting a carriage that +had pulled up on the narrow raised causeway, on +both sides of which there is a drop of some 12 feet +into the sea, and that made still more unpleasant by +short piles thickly driven in. The beast screamed +and backed in spite of the whip, which was dropped +into him smartly by the Minister. The mounted +orderlies saw the danger. One seized my wife, and +the other got hold of the ponies’ heads, only just in +time; the adventure did not improve my wife’s +nerves. They reached the Legation just before me, +having taken a different road.</p> + +<p>Sunday was the anniversary of the Queen’s Accession, +and in church we had the service appointed for +that event, finishing with “God save the Queen.” +Not at all bad for Yokohama.</p> + +<p>The <span class='ships'>Dupleix</span>, with our friend Du Petit Thours, +went out of harbour as I rode in on Saturday, along +the Tikado, and I was much disappointed at not seeing +any notice taken of him when the <span class='ships'>Dupleix</span> passed +our ships, she being homeward bound, while their +kindness and hospitality to Harry Stephenson and +the wrecked crew of the <span class='ships'>Rattler</span> in September last +was fresh in our memories.</p> + +<p>I learned afterwards that, having the French +prisoners on board who had led on and then deserted +the rebels, Du Petit Thours was afraid that a wrong +construction might be put on our cheers, and wrote +to Stanhope, hoping that we should not take any +notice of him. We never met so good a Frenchman +or a better man.</p> + +<p><span class='ships'>Opossum</span> returned from expedition up Yang-tse. +A placard had been stuck up in I-Chang offering +rewards for her capture, as well as others for the +heads of the captain or crew!</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">[272]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_C"> + CHAPTER C + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The China Command</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1869. +Yokohama, +June 23.</div> + +<p>Some man remarked that having lost half an hour on +coming into the world, he was never afterwards able +to make up the lost time. My journal has got three +days behind, and I feel that I shall not be able to +make it up. This is an attempt. My temper, too, +ruffled by a vet who, I believe, poisoned Mrs. +Fitzroy’s grey pony.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 24.</div> + +<p>The American Admiral arrived on the 21st and a +Prussian corvette on the 22nd, when much saluting +of three admirals with their returns took place. +Hakodati invested, but still holding out. Yesterday +commenced housekeeping on our own account, obtaining +our hospitable host’s permission. Children +taking kindly to a day governess after desperate +opposition by Colin. Blowing too hard to return +calls afloat. Called on the Netherlands Consul, who +was entertaining a party of twenty Dutchmen who +claimed me as a countryman, and with pleasure we +liquored up in sweet champagne. Colin enjoying +the substantials.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 27.</div> + +<p>On starting for church this morning, the card of +Don José de Grandaria, ex-Captain-General of the +Philippines, was put into my hand. He had arrived +by the American mail <i lang='fr'>en route</i> for Europe, <i lang='fr'>viâ</i> +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">[273]</span>San Francisco. Good fellow that he is, he came to +luncheon, and if possible will dine; glad of an +opportunity of returning a trifle of his hospitality. +News from Hakodadi of the capture of the town +by the Imperialist troops and total destruction by +explosives of two of Kerair ships. They, however, +still hold the forts.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 29.</div> + +<p>Mounted Colin on the pony “Ko” and gave him +his first lesson in riding.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 30.</div> + +<p>Had the <span class='ships'>Rodney’s</span> steam launch ready yesterday +evening to convey my good friend, the Governor of +Manila, on board the mail steamer. We first became +acquainted in 1837 when he was Governor of +Fernando Po.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 4.</div> + +<p>The shock of an earthquake was felt about 1 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> +Clearing up in the afternoon, Colin mounted his pony +before I had got hold of the tow-rope. Colin touched +him with the whip to close with me. The pony, +being fresh, gave a jump and a kick, placing the little +man on what he called his “bob” on the road, and +scampered up His Excellency’s soft turf.</p> + +<p>Soon after midnight a sensation was caused by the +report of firearms. Guards were turned out. Sir +Harry Parkes saddled, ordered his escort, and scouts +were sent into the town to ascertain the cause. It +proved to be a few Americans sitting up late to usher +in the anniversary of their nation’s Independence.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 5.</div> + +<p>The French mail brought news of my promotion. +The flag was shifted to the main and saluted, all +foreign men-of-war following suit. Parkes off for +Yedo. He is indeed a zealous, active Minister. +The anniversary of American Independence is to be +kept to-day. Our ships are dressed with flags; the +stars and stripes will be saluted at noon by a royal +salute. Hear that our friend Mrs. Alt, who took +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_274">[274]</span>such care of Algie Heneage and myself at Nagasaki +when we were ill, has had a bad fall from her pony, +which fell with her over the edge of a bank, a +drop of some fifteen feet, kicking her twice in the +chest. Called to inquire, +and found Mrs. +Alt in the garden. Her +ribs were dented, not +broken.</p> + +<figure class='figleft' id='i_274'> + <img class='v50' src='images/i_274.jpg' alt=''> + <figcaption>Mrs. Alt.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 7.</div> + +<p>The French mail +brought Challier, the +successor to Commodore +Jones. Challier +commanded the <span class='ships'>Newton</span> +when I had <i>St. +Jean d’Acre</i> in the +Tagus. Am left the +senior and oldest of +all the Naval Commanders +on the station. +Stanhope, Crossman, +and self inspected +yesterday afresh the +site of the Naval +Hospital, the erection of which has now been four +years in contemplation by the Admiralty.</p> + +<p>The advantages and saving to the country in money, +as well as in transport of invalids, who could be easily +cured in this fine climate, has been admitted from the +beginning. Then again, the idea that the authorities +at home should know better the style of building +required than those on the spot has been the cause of +the interchange of plans and surveys. Plans sent out +not suitable to the climate, and again each successive +Government not having the courage to insert the cost +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">[275]</span>in the naval estimates, the expense now, if the hospital +is ever built, will be more than double what it would +have been had it been erected when its advantages +and economy were first acknowledged.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 8.</div> + +<p>To luncheon yesterday on board <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>: everything +perfect, in Stanhope’s usual style. Afterwards +to <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, taking children. She being ordered home, +had all sorts of live animals. Among them were two +bears, who had the run of the ship. In the summer +months hammocks were little used; the bears lay +where they liked, the men using them as pillows. +Each bear would accommodate ten or a dozen at a +time. By day they were all over the place, generally +aloft, in the tops or along the yards, from which they +could see every arrival on board.</p> + +<p>My daughter was a small four-year-old. While +on the poop she found herself rolling along the deck +in the embrace of a bear she had not before seen. Of +course she was immediately released. She knew not +what fear was. The next moment she had seized +one of the mizzentopmast broomsticks, and the bear +made the best of his way aloft. He was a young +Siberian given me by Etholin, brought here by the +<span class='ships'>Juno</span> from Hong Kong; by which ship friend Hugh +Low sent us four Sulu pearls.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 10.</div> + +<p>My servant, Ah Ho’s right eye black and swollen, +painted so, not for the first time, by my man Fuller—who +goes!</p> + +<p>A boat-race came off on Saturday between the +United States <span class='ships'>Iroquois</span> and <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>. <span class='ships'>Iroquois</span> held the +challenge cock they had won from our <span class='ships'>Zebra</span>, and +published some tall talk in Yokohama papers. The +American boat was a double-banked whaler, the +<span class='ships'>Ocean’s</span> a twelve-oared cutter. A fresh breeze. +Betting in favour of the American boat, on which +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_276">[276]</span>some $1500 had been invested. The American +officers had been on board <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> with their bag the +evening before, and remained until every dollar they +brought was covered.</p> + +<p>Never was such an example: the course five +miles. The first three strokes sent the <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> a +length ahead, which advantage they kept, winning by +five minutes. Law, the Commander of <span class='ships'>Iroquois</span>, +guessed he would have to resign the “chicken” he +had taken such care of.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 13.</div> + +<p>Wrote Cooper Key asking him to appoint Gye +Gunnery-Lieutenant of <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> on recommission.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 14.</div> + +<p>Was introduced to the new bear, a cub resembling +the older one. Band played at Jardine’s. Colin’s pony +evinced his dislike to Europeans by kicking one of +the escort, then Webb, and also trying it with me. +Got on his back and quieted him, on the strength of +which he afterwards kicked one of Herbert Smith’s +servants, and near home lifted up his heels without +unseating the small Colin. Parkes returned from +Yedo; had Kassim and the curry cook to let him +know what a good curry was.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 20.</div> + +<p>On Sunday we attended divine service on board +<span class='ships'>Rodney</span> and lunched with Algie Heneage. Yesterday +was an eventful one in my small way. Inspected +the old <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> for last time. Had a farewell +luncheon in the ward-room. Was absent in <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> +eighteen months out of two years. Hoped to have +had the last year on board <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> when this unfair +order comes to send her home.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 21.</div> + +<p>Band playing at Jardine’s. M‘Hardy, Nepean, +and Heneage to dine. While enjoying cigars the +report of a gun from seaward, followed by a couple +of rockets, announced arrival of English mail. Promotion +of mates in <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>. Bath in all its degrees +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">[277]</span>conferred. I passed over for the G.C.B. Death of +my old Chief in Crimea, Charles Freemantle, has +placed me at the head of the Vice.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>July 25.</div> + +<p>Got out in the evening yesterday for a ride with +Colin. Had Algie Heneage to dinner, Bamber, +Woodruffe, Ogle, and Simley. As <span class='ships'>Cormorant</span> was +going to the northward, made her signal to weigh +and take us in tow. As we got away, <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> manned +rigging and yards to the very trucks. They used +aloft, with pretty effect, small boat flags, and gave +three hearty cheers to the parting ship, such as +Britishers only give. The American Admiral and +Italian ships likewise gave parting cheers. After +luncheon with Algie Heneage, some four miles from +the anchorage we bade the old <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> farewell.</p> + +<p>It is seldom that relationship has the same hold +on a sailor’s affections as that of a shipmate. They +manned the rigging and repeated hearty parting +cheers. After we had quitted her, the flag was transferred +to <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> and saluted by <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>. French +mail in. Article in <span class='ships'>Saturday Review</span>, May 29, +on “English Policy” in China refers to the actions +of Gurdon and Domville at Swatow and Formosa +last year. Local papers defend my policy.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_278">[278]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_CI"> + CHAPTER CI + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The China Command</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1869. +Flag in +<span class='ships'>Ocean</span>, +July 31.</div> + +<p>Our band played on the Bund, no better in the Far +East! Japs making great preparations to receive +the Duke of Edinburgh.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Yokohama, +Aug. 2.</div> + +<p>Parkes and M‘Lay come to dine. Much talk on +China affairs; few people better able to form an +opinion than our two guests. All agreed how +lamentably misinformed our Government is.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 4.</div> + +<p>Fine weather at last. Madame and Mademoiselle +Bertrand, Parkes, and Newton dined with us. In the +night we were disturbed by a row in the domestic +department. A big negro caulker had been visiting +in the village, and returned at 3 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>, having been +rolled in the mud a foot deep. He made for the +kitchen, where his appearance terrified the Chinese +cook, who gave the alarm of thieves. On the animal +being removed to his ship, he admitted to its having +been caused by keeping low company, as if there +could be anything lower than himself. He had +affected while on board a religious turn of mind.</p> + +<p><span class='ships'>Sylvia</span> arrived yesterday, and Brooker, who called +this morning, proposed a party on board his ship +to visit “Die Boots.”</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 6.</div> + +<p>Starting at an early hour to go on board <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span>, +was unable to finish remarks for preceding day. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_279">[279]</span>On 4th, while at dinner, a gun announced the arrival +of English mail. Having seen telegrams in both +American and French up to 3rd July, my mind was +set at rest about chance of promotion and relief, the +mail bringing news up to June 18, which pronounced +“Admirals Firm.” The last thing that caught my +eye was a small envelope with “<span class='ships'>Telegraph</span>” in the +corner, which sure enough contained all that I had +been dreading for a year. It was from the Admiralty, +July 3, and commenced with, “You are promoted”: +it ordered me to Singapore to meet my relief, who +would be there on September 3.</p> + +<p>In fact, I was to go tearing down against the +monsoon in <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, with her worn-out boilers, when +my relief could come up in half the time, before the +wind; and then I was to have the pleasure of crossing +the Red Sea in the month of September.</p> + +<p>As there are two routes, and no detriment to the +Service thereby, I determined on waiting at Yokohama. +The time has come at last, my reign nearly +over, and I have no cause to complain; if it were +not for the unjust withholding the G.C.B., I should +proceed on my way home rejoicing.</p> + +<p>We got under way yesterday in the <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span> at +10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> Our party consisted of Madame and +Mademoiselle Bertrand, Raby, Loreiro, Miller, and +ourselves; everything successful but the weather, +which continued rainy and misty. We anchored off +the bay at 11, and having made an excellent breakfast, +proceeded in steam launch. Another boat +brought the ladies’ chairs, coolies, and those who +liked to come.</p> + +<p>The channel, except at high water, when you can +make a straight course, is difficult. However, with +the assistance of a native pilot, we got into the tea-house +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_280">[280]</span>at Kanasawa without accident, beyond occasionally +touching the bottom. In less than a quarter of +an hour, pedestrians, horsemen (our ponies had been +sent on early from Yokohama), and chairs were fairly +under way.</p> + +<p>The scenery beautiful, and in spite of the weather, +and slow progress of chairs over slippery ground, +everybody was cheery, Madame Bertrand walking +the whole seven miles. “Die Boots” was there in +all his grandeur, and a striking sight it is. Since I +saw it two years ago, the inside has been desecrated +with the usual Anglo-Saxon names; in fact, there is a +native who makes a small fortune by attending with +a ladder, brush, and red paint for all those who wish to +immortalize their lady-love’s or their own interesting +names!</p> + +<p>Our coolies had to “chow-chow,” and the afternoon +was far advanced before we were on our +return. The slippery paths made progress so slow +that it was dark by the time we reached our boats; +the tide, although falling, was still high, and with the +help of our natives and the ship in the offing well +lighted, we got safely on board, but too late to be +back in time to entertain Sir Harry, who had +promised to dine with us. We partook of Brooker’s +hospitable tea, at which we made an excellent <em>dinner</em>. +The <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span> under way anchored at 10.30. By +11.30 we were at home; by 12.30 at midnight we +were well shaken by an earthquake!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 10.</div> + +<p><span class='ships'>Pearl</span>, 21, corvette, Captain John F. Ross, +arrived under sail from Hakodadi. Ross, Boxer, and +Miller dined with us. Inspected <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span>, in very nice +order. Flag hoisted at 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">Aug. 13.</div> + +<p>Rougemont, “First” of <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>, came in evening full +of distress at a boat full of officers having been missing +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_281">[281]</span>for two days, and without grub. Active and energetic +steps immediately taken by Parkes: the Consular +Establishment and whole escort put in motion, the +Japanese Government despatching couriers by sea and +land. It appeared afterwards that Rougemont had +been living with Beato, and forgot that the missing +might have returned in his absence from the ship, +which, in fact, they had, and the whole of them had +well fed and turned in an hour before this smart +“First” gave this unnecessary alarm. Parkes indignant, +and small blame to him.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 15.</div> + +<p>Sabbath, and piping hot! We were enlivened by +a royal salute in honour of the birthday of the +Emperor Napoleon III., fired by the French ships in +harbour.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 17.</div> + +<p>Hot weather appears to have set in. The greatest +nuisance one has to contend with by day, as well as by +night, are the mosquitoes.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 19.</div> + +<p>Our band played at Jardine’s on the afternoon of +17th, where I went to meet our letters on their landing +from <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>. Ascertained that the death of +Admiral Bowles was the cause of my promotion. A +telegram from Admiralty extending the time that I +should meet my relief at Singapore to the 19th +September. If they had taken that date into consideration +at first, I might have been down there in +time, but now the 19th will be as inconvenient as the +3rd September was a fortnight ago. The telegram +also contained directions to assemble as large a naval +force as practicable to be placed under Stanhope, but +its destination could not be made out. No public +news. Admiralty permission given to dispense with +<em>razors!</em> for which I am sorry.</p> + +<p>The death of Lieutenant Kent of the <span class='ships'>Avon</span> +enabled me to promote Hammet (from <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>), +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">[282]</span>whose uncle was killed in the trenches before +Sevastopol. Yesterday at 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> inspected <span class='ships'>Adventure</span>; +clean and wholesome.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 20.</div> + +<p>Threatening weather: got wet through in our +ride. Wilkinsons and Adams dined with us yesterday. +Slight earthquake in afternoon. This morning +a typhoon.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Sunday, +Aug. 22.</div> + +<p>The typhoon was sharp and short, but did considerable +damage. Marshall’s house nearly unroofed. +Lindo’s fanciful cottage blown down. Verandahs +round soldiers’ huts blown up. American steamer, +adrift, stove in <span class='ships'>Salamis’s</span> bows, carried away <span class='ships'>Sylvia’s</span> +bowsprit, and did much more damage of less interest +to me. Band played on the bluff.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 23.</div> + +<p>Brooding over my wrongs and the want of consideration +on the part of my friends the Admiralty +in ordering me to Singapore against the monsoon, to +give up the command to a successor and my junior, +when he might so much more easily come up to me at +a saving of £1700 worth of fuel! Another hot day.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 24.</div> + +<p>Mail off this morning; a lull now till the arrival +of the <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, overdue. Phelps dined with us +yesterday: he the manager of the Pacific Mail +Company; she “raised” and in heart a Southerner; he +ditto, but both loyal. The Scotts of 10th Regiment +also dined: she the daughter of the once charming +Caroline Stoll, who married, first Thompson, father +of Mrs. Scott, secondly Bob Tryon: she died soon +after.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 25.</div> + +<p>Made an attempt yesterday in Curio Street: disappointed +in the trip I had promised myself with the +Duke of Edinburgh to Peking; have now the difficulty +of executing two ladies’ commissions for curios +in Japan, where they are now not only scarce, but +enormously dear. Our dinner-party included Dr. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_283">[283]</span>Hofferman, Staff-Inspector-General of Military +Hospitals, Maxwell, Bosman, and Leman.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 26.</div> + +<p>Sorely tempted yesterday to buy two nietschkies, +but prices are 500 per cent above what they used to be. +Got a ride with my boy, who begins to move faster +than the Betto who leads the pony can stand. +French mail arrived this morning, bringing French +Admiral.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 27.</div> + +<p>Into Curio Street again! Could not resist two of +the best nietschkies I have seen, but at the highest +price. In the evening we got the contents of French +mail. An Admiral Seymour dead. Hope it is +not my friend Henry, although news by last mail +announced his being ill. <span class='ships'>Penelope</span> to be new flagship. +Hewitt to be Captain. This morning returned +new French Admiral’s visit; also looked up my old +friend the American Admiral Rowan, in whose cabin +I saw my photograph framed.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 30.</div> + +<p>Intended to have recorded passing events after +church yesterday, but on coming out, the <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> +was reported coming in (29).</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 30.</div> + +<p>Our Saturday dinner-party included Major and +Mr. Lucas, Gambier (<span class='ships'>Sylvia</span>), and Stanhope. I was +restless during the night, which, added to occasional +strange noises, sent me cruising about the house with +my revolver. Having seen the orderly on the alert, +I placed the revolver on the dressing-table, which +stood between the entrance to the bathroom and the +side of the bed where I slept, close at hand, and again +turned in. On awakening, found some expert thief +had entered by the bathroom window, left open for +air, and had not only abstracted three pairs of my wife’s +boots, but, by way of adding insult to injury, the +rascal appropriated my revolver and the clothes of +my Flag-Lieutenant.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_284">[284]</span></p> + +<p>Several Japs had been seen about the grounds +during the night by the orderlies, but in the unfinished +state of outbuildings and grounds they had +many ways of escape. A small ladder used by the +builders was found placed against the bathroom +windows, by which the rogue or rogues had entered.</p> + +<p>After luncheon yesterday, Parkes accompanied me +on board <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>, where I went to receive the Captain +of the <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>; afterwards went unofficially on board +<span class='ships'>Galatea</span> to talk over arrangements for landing, etc. +H.R.H. looking well, after his wound at Sydney, +and courteous, as he well knows how to be. We +left him to read the contents of three mails.</p> + +<p>Parkes and Stanhope dined with us, and made +all sorts of arrangements, which were upset by His +Royal Highness this morning. At 11 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> he +landed at the bottom of the grounds to let me know +his plans. Accompanied the Prince to call on +Colonel Norman, Acting Commander-in-Chief, and +found Mrs. Norman.</p> + +<p>On arrival of the <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, I was astonished to find +His Royal Highness and crew clean-shaved, H.R.H. +not having heard of the Admiralty permission to +grow beards, the order having reached Yokohama +a few days previous to his arrival—a proof of +H.R.H.’s strict idea of discipline, although he knew +very well that I should not have interfered with the +internal discipline of his ship.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_285">[285]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_CII"> + CHAPTER CII + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Close of China Command</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1869. +Yedo, +Sept. 1.</div> + +<p>Here I am in the Mikado’s summer palace at Yedo. +Invited by H.R.H. the Duke of Edinburgh, at whose +disposal this delightful residence was placed but yesterday. +Proceedings have first to be recorded. The +day commenced with heavy rain, which continued, +but the Duke had decided on hoisting the royal +standard at 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>, landing in state, and holding a +levée for Britishers and Foreign Ministers at the +Legation at 11. Having previously gone on board +and been saluted by all the men-of-war present at +10.30, we left the <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> in the Prince’s barge. +Yards manned and another royal salute.</p> + +<p>H.R.H. was received on landing by a guard from +the 10th regiment, another of French marines, while +the road was lined up to the Legation by the 10th +and Japs together: contrast good. The Prince was +cheered from the yards of his own ship on leaving, +which was repeated by such ships as he passed in his +way. Had the weather been anything but rainy, the +whole thing would have had a grand effect. After +the levée we had luncheon at the Legation, then +the Prince, putting on shooting jacket and <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> +hat, proposed a walk in Curio Street. H.R.H. +having visited my wife, we mounted ponies and had +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_286">[286]</span>a very fair inspection; many things were selected and +put aside for future bargainings.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 2.</div> + +<p>I was on board <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> by 9 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> At 10 we +started in steam launch for Kanagawa, where Parkes +had sent his carriages and mounted escort. In the +first were H.R.H., Parkes, myself, and Mitford +(latter told off expressly for attendance on the +Prince); the other brought Elliot Yorke, Haig, and +Adams.</p> + +<p>Weather fine, journey agreeable, the only <i lang='fr'>contretemps</i> +being the springs of our vehicle breaking down +and causing us twice to alight for repairs; but the +Japanese roads, however good they may have been, +are not quite prepared for the wheel traffic now +existing between Yedo and Yokohama. We were +preceded the whole way by a mounted escort of Japs, +while innumerable small guards turned out and presented +arms after their own demi-French instruction.</p> + +<p>At the Palace the Duke was received by a Prince, +and the party appointed by the Japanese Government +to attend His Royal Highness. No place could have +been better adapted. Suites of apartments completely +furnished in European style, while the walls +were covered with curiously painted Japanese paper. +A guard of twenty-five marines had arrived before +us. Our Royal Marine guard was confronted by a +similar number of Japs, who formerly belonged to +the Tycoon, and had been well drilled by the French. +In the Prince’s sitting-room was a magnificent bronze +vase covered with beautifully executed birds, dragons, +etc., one of the presents from the Mikado. After +luncheon Minwaji-no-Mia, a Prince of the Royal +blood, paid a visit. Not much to be done in the +afternoon. The Legation retired to their respective +houses. We strolled through the pretty, well-kept +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_287">[287]</span>grounds, made to look as little formal and like +nature as possible. The Prince is showing me every +kindness and consideration, selecting a room next +that occupied by himself, consulting me as to costume +for dinner. And on my suggesting round jackets as +the coolest, he appeared in one, with gold lace +trousers, which appeared to be the mess dress of +<span class='ships'>Galatea</span>. Dinner quiet, and good coffee, the best I +have tasted. The Prince chatted with me long after +dinner, and seemed really anxious for advice as to +his future movements, hoping I would give him +concise orders while within the limits of the station, +so I sent a despatch for Risk and Dawson that we +might arrange the same.</p> + +<p>I waited an opportunity to ask His Royal Highness +about his narrow escape at Sydney; he kindly +showed me the wound at the right of the spine—a +hole into which I could thrust the end of my little +finger.</p> + +<p>Among the things sent yesterday were ten magnificent +volumes of about 14 ins. square by 4 ins. deep, +containing coloured pictures—in fact, a complete +history of Japan, a thing I believe no money could +purchase. In front of the Prince’s window were +large China bowls containing beautiful broad-tailed +specimens of goldfish. Other China bowls, ranged +on stands, contained hundreds of flowers, dwarfed +trees, etc., all of which His Royal Highness was to +consider his own.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Palace of +the +Mikado, +Japan, +Sept. 3.</div> + +<p>It rained all yesterday. In the afternoon we +managed to get over to a covered-in place within the +Palace grounds to see a combat of swords and spears. +Two at a time appeared on the platform; the swords +were of bamboo. The practice was interesting +enough; heavy blows and thrusts were exchanged. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_288">[288]</span>An umpire decided when the fatal blow or thrust had +been delivered. The head was protected by helmet and +steel masks. Armour on the left side, as far down +as the waist.</p> + +<p>After bowing to the audience, the combatants +saluted one another: on the same principle, I +suppose, as our antagonists in the prize-ring shake +hands before punching one another’s heads. When +the supposed fatal blow was given, the vanquished +walked off, while the victor uncovered his head and +“kow towed” to H.R.H. The combats with long +spears were conducted on same principle. The men +were selected from the Japanese guard.</p> + +<p>The Minister said that had he educated the +warriors of different Daimios they would be sure to +fight it out afterwards to the death if different chiefs’ +followers met. Risk came up in steam launch to +arrange a revised route for <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, she being three +weeks behind time. Having duly considered the +whole, and what Kellett might have had to say had +he not been pitched on his head before leaving +England, which delayed his arrival, we were of +opinion that I should give up the San Francisco +route, accompany the Prince to Peking, meet my +successor at Hong Kong or Singapore, and telegraph +to the Board accordingly.</p> + +<p>The forenoon continued rainy. After luncheon +a man of Mitford’s came with curios—apparently a +bundle of rubbish; there were, however, two swords, +which Mitford pronounced to be excellent because the +owner had names written, which he pronounced to be +certificates of their manufacture by an extinct artist. +The Prince paid some £80, and to my mind there +is no proof that he was not taken in, and Mitford +too.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_289">[289]</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">Yedo.</div> + +<p>We rode, a largish party, to see the tombs of +the Tycoons, situated in the midst of a well-wooded +garden or park. The most beautiful temples and +elaborate carvings of any I have seen. We were +allowed to inspect everything, being in company of +His Royal Highness.</p> + +<p>On reaching home we found mats before the door +and preparations for jugglers: wonderfully clever; +and here, as in other parts of the world, there was +music, such as it is, with the usual buffoon or clown. +To-morrow we are to have a procession and the +Prince’s visit to the Mikado, which we look forward +to as rather a bore.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 4.</div> + +<p>One of the Japanese princes, Parkes, and Adams +joined the dinner last night. After that we had conjurors; +the pretty butterfly trick was beautifully +performed. Yesterday Aitkin missed a small ivory-handled +clasp-knife from my dressing-table, and this +morning my gold watch, which I have had for forty +years, and which I had given to my dear boy, has +disappeared—I think while I was taking my bath.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 5.</div> + +<p>I put the case of theft into Mitford’s hands, who, +having engaged the servants, offered to guarantee +their honesty with his life, or rather undergo torture +on the wheel if any act of dishonesty could be brought +against any one of them. However, before breakfast +was announced, the culprit was discovered to be +the Japanese lamp-trimmer, and not only was my +watch restored, but knives, gold rings, and money +belonging to others were found in his possession. +The only difficulty now will be to save the unfortunate +wretch from decapitation. A guard of fifty +marines having been landed from the <span class='ships'>Adventure</span>, we +had a late breakfast, and with the Legation mounted +escort, a Jap ditto, and streets lined in a way, we +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_290">[290]</span>proceeded in two carriages for the Mikado’s residence +within the moat and castle walls.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Sept. 6.</div> + +<p>The Prince, Parkes, and self were the principal persons, +and, in fact, the only ones admitted into the same +room as His Majesty. No presentations took place and +everything was as formal as need be, but exceedingly +curious. A more friendly meeting took place afterwards +at a small bungalow in the pleasure grounds of +the castle, which are very extensive. Mitford acted +as interpreter, and the exclusiveness surrounding the +Mikado’s person was broken through. The Prince +presented him with a beautiful gold box, on the lid +of which a miniature of himself was set in diamonds.</p> + +<p>After dinner on Saturday (4th) we had theatricals in +the evening. Performers all women; acting supposed +to be very good, and the greatest decorum preserved +throughout. Yesterday morning we witnessed a +game of cup and ball on a large scale, which took +place on a plot of ground railed off for the occasion. +A number of horsemen, about eight on each side, +compete in throwing the greatest number of balls +through a hole in a planking at the end of the ground, +which is about two hundred yards in length by +twenty broad. The balls are red and white. The +riders are distinguished by their costume, which is +very picturesque. Each man is armed with a staff +of bamboo, about five feet long, at the end of which +is a sort of cup, by which they manage to pick up the +balls, which are, in the first place, thrown on the +ground on the opposite end from the board in which +the hole is.</p> + +<p>They then ride towards it and throw the ball at +the hole and go back for another. The balls bound +back within the enclosed ground, and are again +picked up. The saddle is never quitted. They +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_291">[291]</span>jostle one another, knock the balls from each other’s +staffs, pick up and throw altogether away the balls of +their adversaries. A signal from behind points out +the number and colour of the balls that have passed +through the hole.</p> + +<p>The next thing was the interior of a great +Daimio’s Palace and to be entertained in regular +Japanese fashion. The house of the Daimio selected +for the occasion belonged to a Japanese noble whose +income is estimated at £800,000 a year. He was +absent, but a Prince of Japan was there to receive +and do the honours.</p> + +<p>A Japanese fish dinner has been often described. +We had to sit on the mats and eat with chop-sticks, +drink cups of hot <i lang='ja'>saki</i> with the chief men, into +which fun the Duke of Edinburgh cordially entered. +In front of the banqueting room was a theatre, and +a selection of plays performed during the feast. +This was done by the retainers of the Daimio, +according to ancient custom. The actors were men; +the chief performers wore masks. The dresses were +gorgeous, and looked as if new for the occasion. +We did not understand the language, but Mitford +had kindly, beforehand, translated the plays. The +motion of the actors was so exactly like that of a +turkey cock with his tail spread out, that any one +who has watched that bird, or a peacock under similar +circumstances, strutting about, needs no further description.</p> + +<p>After the plays were over certain mysterious-looking +boxes were brought from the theatre and +placed at the feet of the Prince for inspection. On +being opened they proved to be the masks that had +been used on this occasion, four in number, carved +out of wood and painted. There was the lovely face +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_292">[292]</span>of woman, the comic, the tragic, and one I may call +the diabolical. These were said to be 400 years old. +After this we pulled on our boots, mounted, and +rode away, escorted as before, taking rather a circuitous +route that the Prince might see something +more of the city. On getting home found that +Stanhope had come up to stay with Adams.</p> + +<p>A covered place has been erected in front of the +house for the acrobats, so convenient that you see +everything from a chair in the verandah. Another +such place has also sprung up, which looks like an +equestrian circus, but which I find is to be used for +wrestling. In fact, nothing has been forgotten by +these kind and hospitable people that can add to the +comfort or amusement of our Prince.</p> + +<p>I forgot to mention that after our return on +Saturday we found the falconers waiting in full +costume. The hawking, however, was very tame. A +small species of water-rat was driven out of the +ditches, which a small hawk clawed before it had +gone 5 yards.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 7.</div> + +<p>Wrestling appears to be a national pastime, and is +conducted with much order and ceremony. The +Prince had a large party of Daimios and chiefs to +luncheon yesterday, after which meal we proceeded +to see the combat.</p> + +<p>One side of the square, which must have been +about 80 yards, was covered in and fitted with +chairs and seats for the Prince and his friends. On +the raised platform in the centre, which was about +20 feet square, and likewise roofed over, was an +altar, on which incense was offered to propitiate +some deity. The leading wrestlers from one side +then appeared and formed a ring on the platform, +and went through certain mystic movements, clapping +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_293">[293]</span>of hands, extending arms, then legs, stamping heavily +with first one foot, hands resting on one knee, then +the other.</p> + +<p>This over, they retired to a small building erected +at the corner near the end of the building in which +the Prince and his guests sat, and from which to the +platform there was a pathway railed off. Another +party then issued from the opposite corner at +the other end of the Prince’s stand, and went +through the same ceremony. After these had retired, +a herald summoned a man from each side. +Certain ceremonies were again gone through. A +friendly pinch of salt was brought by each and mixed +with the soil on which they stood; they extended the +arms and stamped and kow-towed and then squatted +and watched each other like two game-cocks, until the +signal was given by the umpire, when they sprang at +each other with a yell and wrestled in earnest. I did +not observe anything peculiar in that manner of +wrestling. There must have been as many as a +hundred of each of the best. The wrestling of the +champions was reserved for the last and was exceedingly +fine. The good Prince Nwajima and the +smaller officer Uwajima were the only strange +guests.</p> + +<p>After dinner the walks through the pleasure-grounds +were lighted up, and from one of the +summer-houses on the edge of the lake we witnessed +some inferior fireworks, but the best these good +people could produce. In another pavilion was a +native band in full costume, probably the Mikado’s. +The night was calm and fine. On return from the +Legation, I found in my room a present from His +Majesty in the shape of a handsome sword.</p> + +<p>Acrobats came shortly after breakfast and performed +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_294">[294]</span>some of the most extraordinary balancing +ever seen. For instance: a man lying on his back +balances on the soles of his feet four small things +piled on one another. One of them was a glass +bowl with fish in it; another, a bird-cage with a +canary; a larger box on top, out of which came a +child, who climbed to the end of a branch that projected +nearly at right angles from a bamboo-tree +growing out of the upper box—difficult to describe, +as I never saw the like.</p> + +<p>After luncheon there was fishing with casting-nets: +all good in its way, the scenery being so +picturesque.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Yedo to +Yokohama, +Sept. 7.</div> + +<p>Events, although small, have followed each other +so rapidly as to leave no time to write. By 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> +on the 8th, Princes of the blood royal, Prince +Nwajima, and the Daimios of lesser note, assembled +at the summer palace to accompany the Duke on +board the <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, she having come over from +Yokohama on the previous evening, where they +were to inspect the ship and remain to luncheon. +The <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> and <span class='ships'>Pearl</span> came over early in the +morning. The morning had been rainy, but held +up as we embarked. The launch grounded outside +the islands, and as the tide was falling we cast +off, and pulled on board the ships which were +anchored between five and six miles from the shore. +As we approached, the ships broke their masthead +flags, manned yards, and fired royal salutes; looking +as no other nation’s ships can look—ropes taut and +yards square. Everything was most successful. +The afternoon turned out fine, without being too +hot. The royal visitors took their departure in +<span class='ships'>Ocean</span> steam-launch at about 3.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, yards manned, +and another salute. Our Prince’s royal standard +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_295">[295]</span>was, after giving the steam-launch proper time to +get out of sight, hauled down and my flag hoisted in +its place; and then the signal made to weigh.</p> + +<p>We proceeded across under easy steam, and anchored +at sunset, when the flag was transferred to the <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>. +On landing, it was evident, by the concourse of people, +that the Prince was expected. He, however, preferred +remaining in his own snug quarters on board, +and I took advantage of the Legation carriage to get +a lift up the hill. In the morning I went down +to Aspinall’s office to thank him for his most kind +offer of taking the entire charge and trouble of the +bungalow off my hands, and then into Curio Street, +where I invested $800 for H.R.H. in bronzes; +also a trifle for myself. Grand dinner given by the +10th (Lincoln Regiment) to H.R.H.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Yokohama +Sept. 12.</div> + +<p><i>Sabbath.</i>—Pouring with rain, sufficiently to prevent +our attending divine service. A great dinner +was given on Friday night at the Legation, including +the Japanese Princes, such foreign ministers as were +in Yokohama, foreign Admirals, and officers commanding +ships, followed by a ball, our countrywomen +appearing to advantage. Prince tired; made +his escape after two quadrilles and one waltz, which +he danced with our friend Mrs. Marshall.</p> + +<p>H.R.H. took a quiet breakfast with us this morning, +approving of our curry, and then went home to be +tatooed. The merchants having kindly determined +on giving me a parting dinner, invitations came out +yesterday, including the Prince among the Captains +invited to meet me.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 14.</div> + +<p>The kind friends who had decided on entertaining +me at a parting dinner determined no expense or +trouble should be spared. The press, too, entered +cordially into the idea, and each had its leading +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_296">[296]</span>article puffing me up to any extent. There was one +painful part in all this to me: the speech which it +entailed, that I had to prepare; although no preparation +was necessary, one could think of nothing else. +On Monday (13th), the Prince, Parkes, self, and the +party who saw the Mikado at Yedo, were photographed +by Beato. Inspected afterwards the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>; +clean and improved.</p> + +<p>On Tuesday (14th), H.R.H. planted some valuable +shrubs in my bungalow ground. They had formed +part of the ornaments of the Mikado’s palace in which +the Duke had resided at Yedo. In the evening +the dinner came off.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 16.</div> + +<p>Nothing was left undone by my entertainers; +about eighty sat down, including the Minister, Chief-Justice +Sir E. Hornby, Colonel Norman, and Captains +of ships—among them H.R.H. the Duke of Edinburgh. +My staff were also among the guests; <span class='ships'>Ocean’s</span> +band in great form. Behind the head of the table +was a place screened by flower-pots, where the wife +and a few ladies were stowed.</p> + +<p>Got through my speech better than I expected; +the whole thing was a complete success and ended +by my being carried on the shoulders of my +entertainers round the tables, preceded by the +Prince’s Highland piper! Yesterday we had plenty +to do, packing up and shifting on board <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, +intending to sail on arrival of mail. Embarked with +wife and chicks on board <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>. It was determined +to wait no longer for the mail, or our time at +Peking must be cut short.</p> + +<p>On a signal from <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> at 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, +<span class='ships'>Ocean</span>, and <span class='ships'>Pearl</span> weighed, and formed into line. All +the foreign men-of-war manned rigging and cheered. +The <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> had just fired a parting salute to Sir +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_297">[297]</span>Henry Parkes, when the Japanese battery fired a +royal salute, returned by <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>. The American +Admiral gave me a parting salute, which <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> +returned. Many of the merchant ships were dressed +with flags, and a large American steamer, with a +greater part of the community and <span class='ships'>Delaware’s</span> +band on board, accompanied our little squadron, +led by <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>. After standing down the bay +some miles at half-speed, the American steamer +<span class='ships'>Nautilus</span> passed up the line with many ladies on +board, giving each of us parting cheers. Poor Parkes +fancied he should never have another Naval Chief who +would so cordially co-operate with him. Our friendship +was of long standing; his friendly grasp at +parting was touching! I met him first when he was +a boy, and I commanded <span class='ships'>Dido</span> in 1842. In 1858, +he wrote—“Oh for a Keppel, just for one month.”</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>I was among those who stood by to see Parkes’ +monument unveiled in St. Paul’s Cathedral.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_298">[298]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_CIII"> + CHAPTER CIII + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Peking</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1869. +Kobe, +Sept. 18.</div> + +<p>Anchored off Kobe (<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>), intending to go to +Osaka in <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> on the morrow. Consul Enslie +and the Governor of Hiogo visited the Duke of Edinburgh +on board <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> firing the Consul’s +salute, <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> the Governor’s. Nothing could be +more civil and attentive than all concerned were. +Messenger sent to Osaka to prepare for the royal +visitor: the Mikado’s residence placed at H.R.H.’s +disposal. We landed and walked to the waterfall, +where we found a guard and refreshment. The +Prince much pleased with the scenery, he and +Stanhope dining with us afterwards.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Osaka, +Sept. 19.</div> + +<p>Although the Sabbath, our time would not allow +the deferring the visit to Osaka. The Prince and +party were early on board, and by seven we were +under way, with <span class='ships'>Galatea’s</span> steam-launch in tow. +On anchoring off the bar we were immediately visited +by the officials, placing a state and other government +boats at the Prince’s disposal; the Governor coming +off, but the tide falling, we were transferred to the +Mikado’s magnificent state-boat.</p> + +<p>Before entering the river a royal salute was fired +from the battery. At the settlement the Prince was +received with a guard, and every possible respect. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_299">[299]</span>The houses closed by order on both sides: a mark of +respect with which the Prince would rather have +dispensed. Consul Gower had lunch ready, after +which the Prince was taken, much against his will, +sight-seeing; they rode to the castle and elsewhere. +After another feed, returned to dinner on board +<span class='ships'>Galatea</span>.</p> + +<p>Just before reaching the anchorage, with position +lights up and everything proper, we were most +wickedly run into by a small iron Jap steamer, +smashing the secretary’s dispatch-boat and our port +spare-spar. Herself unhurt, beyond loss of bowsprit +and spring of fore-masthead.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 20.</div> + +<p>Damage done by Japanese steamer prevented +sailing early. Carpenters of ships on board to clear +away wreck. At 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> we weighed. Heard the +last of old <span class='ships'>Rodney’s</span> band playing, “Cheer, boys, +cheer!” as the crew mounted the rigging to the very +trenches to give their departing old Chief three times +three hearty cheers. <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> making signal “Farewell,” +we led <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> through the Osaka Straits, +intending to anchor for the night to the southward +of the rock, our leadsmen on the paddle-boxes +showing depth of water.</p> + +<p>However, in rounding to <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> took the ground. +I joined H.R.H. on the bridge, not with the idea of +interfering, but I wished to see him get his own +ship off.</p> + +<p>His first idea was to send the lighter boats to +sound in every direction. The shallowest water was +that on which the ship had grounded. The boom-boats +were got into the water: bower anchors prepared +for laying out. I remarked that the B.B., hanging +from the cathead, looked heavy. H.R.H., referring +to his small watch bill book, had noted the exact +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_300">[300]</span>weight and size of every spar, anchor, and boat on +board. I asked no more questions.</p> + +<p>The B.B. anchor, with hemp cable, was laid +out astern, the end passed through port side of +the captain’s cabin, brought to the capstan and +hove taut. I was wondering what H.R.H. would +do next, when I heard the message to the engine +room, “Go ahead full speed.” I wondered, as I +believe others did. In less than five minutes the cable +astern slackened, capstan bars manned: she was afloat. +I inquired of H.R.H. what made him first go ahead! +He had ascertained that his ship was on the hard +sandbank. He knew the vast power of the screw +propeller would dissolve the edge of the sand—the +rest followed.</p> + +<p>The old sailor of sixty had learned something +from the young steamer of twenty-five. We enjoyed +an excellent dinner on the starboard side of His Royal +Highness’s cabin. Weighed.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 21.</div> + +<p>We anchored for the night in the bay to eastward +and northward of Kosii Island.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 22.</div> + +<p>Our run to-day was for the Simonesaki Straits. +<span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, not being over handy with her port helm, +we came to in Witshed Bay, opposite the city, to +wait for slack water the following morning.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 23.</div> + +<p>Lovely weather; having led <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> through the +remainder of the straits, made signal to part company +and rendezvous Nagasaki, we taking the short cut to +the westward, while she took the route to the northward +of Ai Sima. During the afternoon we passed +through that beautiful passage, anchoring at sunset in +the snug little harbour of Kigatsu.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Nagasaki, +Sept. 24.</div> + +<p>Weighed just before daylight and entered the +lovely harbour of Nagasaki. Here we found <span class='ships'>Adventure</span>, +<span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, <span class='ships'>Icarus</span>, <span class='ships'>Dwarf</span>, Commander C. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_301">[301]</span>Walker, and <span class='ships'>Havoc</span>, merchant ship, dressed with +flags to do honour to the Prince. I soon made +arrangements with Mr. Consul Flowers, that as the +<span class='ships'>Galatea</span> was coaling both sides, and guns run in, no +salute could be fired, and cut out work for the +morrow. H.R.H. received Governor, then an +address from British residents. At 2.30 the Prince +will lunch with the Consul and will return the +Governor’s call, after which, I think, he will have +had enough! Mr. Medhurst being here, expressed +the great disappointment there would be caused by +His Royal Highness passing Shanghai without visiting +that model settlement.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 25.</div> + +<p>Royal standard hoisted on board <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> at 8 +<span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> At 9 inspected <span class='ships'>Dwarf</span>; another pattern of +cleanliness and order, such as, we flatter ourselves, is +not attained by any other nation or station. Took +the wife afterwards to visit Alt’s house, where Algie +Heneage and I were so kindly nursed, where on +different occasions we were really ill. We also went +over the grounds of Glover’s pretty place, where +poor George Fitzroy died last year.</p> + +<p>Leaving the wife with the Medhursts at the Belle +Vue Hotel, where the children already were—enjoying +conjurer’s tricks—went on board <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> to +assist the Prince in entertaining the Governor, then +the Foreign Consuls, after them a deputation from +the British community; after which the Prince left +under a salute, ships present manning yards and +masthead flags up.</p> + +<p>After a sumptuous luncheon with Consul and +Mrs. Flowers, embarked, and landed higher up to +return Governor’s visit, which we did, preceded by +Jap guard with drums. Returned on board to a +quiet dinner.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_302">[302]</span></p> + +<p>Having witnessed some of the prettiest illuminations +that can be imagined, the <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> twice lighted +up with red, white, and blue from her yard-arms +and row of ports, we proceeded to the <span class='ships'>Adventure</span>, +where the wife and my “only daughter” had preceded +us, leaving Colin to the care of Webb.</p> + +<p>As soon as the Prince had heard of the above +arrangement, he proposed dividing his staff and friends +intended for the trip to Peking between <span class='ships'>Adventure</span> +and ourselves, leaving <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> to complete coal and +follow us at her leisure to Chefoo under sail. +Elliot Yorke and Chevalier, the artist, and Mr. +Porter, who had kindly undertaken to prepare the +way to Peking for the Prince and party, went in the +<span class='ships'>Adventure</span>.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 26.</div> + +<p><i>Sabbath.</i>—By 6 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> <span class='ships'>Icarus</span> had started under +sail, <span class='ships'>Adventure</span> following, ready to give a tug across. +On board <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> to breakfast. Inspection below, +and Divine Service, which with fair singing appeared +to be well conducted. Took a stroll through the +porcelain shops, which do not hold with the Chinese, +although the Japs excel in lacquer ware.</p> + +<p>Took an early dinner with the Prince, he having a +shore appointment. Stanhope and I paid the Flowers +a farewell visit. The Mikado had sent a few small +presents to the Prince, and to me a jar of saki!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 27.</div> + +<p>It was 2.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> before I got my passengers, consisting +of the Prince, Stanhope, Haig, and Lord +Charles Beresford on board. Weighed and stood +out, cheered by <span class='ships'>Dwarf</span> and several merchant ships.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Chefoo, +Sept. 30.</div> + +<p>Came to, 2 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> Found <span class='ships'>Icarus</span>. Elliot Yorke +had gone in <span class='ships'>Opossum</span>, leaving me and Mons. +Chevalier.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 1.</div> + +<p>Miller under way before daylight. Charles Scott +joined our party.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_303">[303]</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">Peiho +River, +Oct. 2.</div> + +<p>Daylight found us off the bar, Peiho River, with +the pilot, Mr. Band, coming alongside. Pronounced +the bar passable at 10, when we forced her through +the mud, Mr. Band going ahead full speed. At +the usual place we came in contact with a tier of +junks, but having left most of our boats behind, +purposely, at Chefoo, we escaped with a broken +gunnel, losing a small kedge anchor, and bent davits; +Mr. Band consoling himself with a glass of grog.</p> + +<p>The consternation among the boats as the wave +caused by our speed lifted them on to the banks, and +occasionally washed a looker-on off his legs, was +rather amusing. The Taku Forts appeared in good +repair, and the pilot reports some heavy American +guns being got into position: the coolies at work +stating that in one year’s time they will be prepared +to rid themselves of us barbarians!</p> + +<p>It was sunset before we arrived at Tientsin; it +being within a day or two of the races, the promised +horses of Mr. Porter were not forthcoming, but the +boats ordered by Mr. Consul Maguire were ready, +and it was decided by His Royal Highness that we +should start that evening after dinner.</p> + +<p>A steamer overtook us and kindly gave us a copy +of the <cite>Overland Express</cite>, by which it appears that +my successor and his staff had left England on +August 5. Unwelcome news; although one could +not help being glad at Kellett’s recovery.</p> + +<p>The boats by which we ascend the river are comfortably +fitted for sleeping; then we have a messing +boat, a cooking boat, and one for the servants. +Rougemont and Stanhope, with the rest, including +Chow-Wang the mandarin, who has always accompanied +me. We are eleven boats; each bearing a +small flag, white with a red cross, St. Andrew’s shape.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_304">[304]</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">Peiho +River, +Oct. 3.</div> + +<p>I am afraid the Sabbath is somewhat lost sight of, +the only consolation being that the tracking coolies +might have been employed in a less congenial way. +They have no weekly rest-day.</p> + +<p>Our volunteer provider and supervisor of everything +is pronounced to be an impostor, and Mandarin +Chow-Wang is a useless expense. However, +Scott’s and Stanhope’s servants and my man Aitken +do their best; the great difficulty being to keep the +boats together, that with the provisions being always +out of the way. Grapes, water-melons, and onions +to be purchased at the villages. The water is too +muddy even to wash in.</p> + +<p>A hot, dry, south-westerly wind blowing much +dust, books and papers curling up; preferable to +wet and damp though!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 5.</div> + +<p>Still moving up the river; but our progress has +been slow owing to the difficulty of keeping so large +a number of boats together. However, all seem +jolly and good-tempered; no one more so than our +good-natured Prince, whom every one delights in.</p> + +<p>Yesterday (4th) at Hosinu, the half-way town, +we found that good fellow Conolly, who had come to +meet us from the Legation, bringing me a letter +from Sir Rutherford, and to the Prince a hearty +welcome.</p> + +<p>Nothing could have been more absurd than the +plan laid down for so large a party by our self-appointed +adviser, Mr. Porter of the Imperial +Customs. The idea of riding up in the cool and +splendid weather of September is all well enough +for one or two, but he undertook to mount our +nine selves, four European servants, and convey +luggage, to do which he proceeded from Nagasaki on +board the <span class='ships'>Adventure</span> in advance.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_305">[305]</span></p> + +<p>On our arrival at Tientsin found no horses, he +having calculated on the kindness of a good-natured +European community to mount us. Nor could the +Legation provide horses sufficient for our party +more than half-way. Here we are at the close of the +third day without a prospect of doing more than get +to Tung-Chow with every preparation of boats made +beforehand. The Prince cooked for us a wonderful +omelette, 200 eggs and other things in it, for +breakfast.</p> + +<figure class='figcenter' id='i_305'> + <img class='v100' src='images/i_305.jpg' alt=''> + <figcaption>The Prince who made the Omelette.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_306">[306]</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">Peking. +Oct. 6.</div> + +<p>Soon after daylight our flotilla had all arrived +before 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> Sir Rutherford’s groom “William” +put in an appearance with the stud, among which I +recognised my old friend “Don Juan.” There were +mounts for all, besides carts for luggage, etc. A +pleasant two hours’ ride brought us to the Legation, +where the Prince received a sincere and respectful +but hearty welcome. Lady Alcock quite recovered, +and Miss Lowder looking as charming as ever. We +breakfasted soon after 12, while outside were collected +the usual bazaar of curios, furs, etc., much +to the amusement of our party, who, including +H.R.H., were like children at a fair. Our party +was so large that the Attachés took a part to dine +with them. The chaplain, Mr. Burden, and his wife +dined with the big ones.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 7.</div> + +<p>The bazaar reopened before breakfast, H.R.H. +investing considerably. The Russian Minister and +the French and Prussian Chargés d’Affaires came to +meet the Prince at the convivial morning meal; +better than a formal presentation, His Royal Highness +being entirely <i lang='la'>incog.</i></p> + +<p>In the afternoon Conolly, H.R.H., and I rode into +Curio Street, where I was induced to join in a lot +together, my choice being a beautiful Chinese jar, the +likes of which I have not before seen. Other things +too were bid for which may yet find their way here.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Legation, +Peking, +Oct. 8.</div> + +<p>Quarters here very comfortable; a nice little +early breakfast of good bread and butter, tea, and eggs +brought to your room. As H.R.H. amuses himself +until the small hours at bowls, I thought I might dawdle +too, but about 9 I got an invitation to accompany him +to Curio Street. Had a chat with Sir Rutherford this +morning on China affairs, and found that he lamented +the present policy of our rulers at home, and had clearly +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_307">[307]</span>pointed out the dangers, if persisted in, of our drifting +into another war. He showed me the copy of +a letter Lord Clarendon had found it necessary to +address to Mr. Burlingham, late American Minister, +pointing out how different is the statement of the +Chinese Ambassador (that the Chinese Government +were for advancement) from the real facts, by which it +appears that nothing is farther from their intentions, +and that therefore Lord Clarendon should consider his +present policy an experimental one only. By which +it seems to me their eyes are reluctantly being opened +after the dust thrown in them by the Minister, +Burlingham.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 9.</div> + +<p>H.R.H. and party have gone sight-seeing and to a +luncheon in the Palace grounds provided by Sir +Rutherford Alcock. We dine each day fourteen, +the younger ones taking turns to dine at the +Secretaries’ mess. We move from table after the +first glass of wine, followed by coffee and cigars, +the Prince going to his favourite bowls, and we old +ones, as well as a few younger, attracted by the fair +Miss Lowder to sixpenny pool.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Peking, +Oct. 10.</div> + +<p><i>Sabbath.</i>—After attending church, different parties +had different ways of amusing themselves. H.R.H., +to whom it was a novelty, partook of a regular +Chinese feast—bird’s-nest soup, eggs that had been +kept a hundred years or longer, shark’s fins, etc. +Most of us went into the attractive shops of Curio +Street.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 11.</div> + +<p>Obliged to turn out betimes to enable servants to +pack and start the many carts that ought to reach +Usung before us. Until the last moment the vendors +of curios flocked in and displayed their tempting +articles.</p> + +<p>At 2.30, after an excellent luncheon, we were +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_308">[308]</span>once more on the Legation horses, and bade adieu to +our kind and hospitable host and hostess, with their +pretty daughter, on whose horse, “Snowball,” the light +Admiral was mounted, H.R.H. riding my old friend +“Don Juan,” Conolly and Baker accompanying us. It +was sunset before we were all embarked with our goods +and chattels, and an hour later before we were clear +of the numerous trading junks that jammed the creek, +which gave time for Conolly and Baker to dine with +us. Conolly had, of course, delighted everybody, +while nothing could have been more obliging than +both as interpreters.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 13.</div> + +<p>H.R.H. cooked his dish of eggs, after which we +resumed whist. A fortunate turn in my luck; got up +winner of the expedition of 140 points, some of it +going towards curios. Having dined comfortably, +8 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> brought us alongside <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, H.R.H. going +on shore to bowls, having first arranged to wait over +the morrow.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 14.</div> + +<p>Mr. Chow-Wang put in an appearance early, which +looked like a settling of accounts, and certain +difficulties about them were suddenly solved by +H.R.H. insisting on paying the whole of the +expenses of our expedition, left dollars with the Consul +to be returned to Mr. Porter.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Tientsin.</div> + +<p>We found at Tientsin letters from Chefoo. The +Shanghai community regretting that circumstances +and want of time prevented their proving separately +their appreciation of my services in the Far East, +invited the wife and self to a grand ball. H.R.H., +Stanhope, and self mounted donkeys and rode to the +town. The Prince had selected eight from the Navy +and challenged the shore at bowls. They met at +9 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 15.</div> + +<p>It was four o’clock before our Prince came on +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_309">[309]</span>board this morning; they had a spirited and hardly-contested +game, the shore, however, beating the Navy +five successive games, His Royal Highness backing +his side until he had lost nearly four hundred dollars. +Then he pluckily challenged them to double or quits, +which he won. A long steamer, the <span class='ships'>Chili</span>, ahead, +was about to start for Shanghai as soon as we were +out of the way. Wrote by her, thanking the +community for their kind appreciation of my services, +and regretting my inability, owing to orders from +the present Board of Admiralty, to accept their +kind invitation. At. 1.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> weighed and steamed +down the Peiho for the third and last time.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 16.</div> + +<p>In steaming yesterday we met an American +steamer with the French naval Commander-in-Chief +on board. He was probably going to consult with +his Minister as to the best means for obtaining redress, +a French missionary having lately been beaten +to death, another proof, if any were wanting, of Mr. +Burlingham’s policy. Our commercial treaties have +been forced on these Orientals, and by force only can +we make them respected, or even retain a footing in +the country.</p> + +<p>With history and centuries of experience before +them, our Ministers are imposed upon by a highly +paid American adventurer and made to believe +that the Chinese people only require civilised +treatment to receive and welcome us all over the +Celestial Empire, whereas their rotten and ignorant +Government are only plotting to get rid for ever of +the hated barbarian.</p> + +<p>While looking out of the window during my toilet +saw a well-dressed China woman stumping along on +her poor contracted feet with her hands clasped and +extended, shrieking and repeating some word. She +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_310">[310]</span>suddenly turned towards the river, making a wonderful +good run, and tried to plunge in. The water +being low she stuck in the mud, when a man and +woman went to the rescue and drew her on the bank, +where she lay kicking her shapeless feet up until we +passed out of sight; poor creature! I suppose they +have their fits of jealousy as well as we barbarians.</p> + +<p>The tide not being high enough on the bar we +anchored, which gave us an opportunity to inspect the +Taku Forts—which we shall have to occupy some day.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 18.</div> + +<p>At 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> went to inspect the <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, where I +was received with manned yards and all due honours. +Found her beautifully clean, and in all respects a +man-of-war. There is no doubt H.R.H. is fully +captain of his own ship; without an efficient head she +could not be what she is. Ship’s company below the +average as fine-looking men, but as clean as seamen +who wear beards and moustaches are likely to be.</p> + +<p>His Royal Highness came on board <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> to take +leave of the wife. Old Raby, with his good-natured, +comical face, took leave of me on board <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>. On +parting company <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> and <span class='ships'>Icarus</span> gave three +hearty cheers from the rigging. Proceeded to +Hong Kong.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_311">[311]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_CIV"> + CHAPTER CIV + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Homeward Bound</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1869. +Hong +Kong. +Flag in +<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, +Oct. 23.</div> + +<p>Came to in Hong Kong. Vice-Admiral Sir H. +Kellett, my successor, the Commodore, and other +commanders came on board. Keswick, of Jardine, +Mathieson and Co., came inviting me to East Point. +Wife and children had gone there in steam launch. +Called on Governor, taking Lady MacDonnell a +pair of pet china jars from Peking: one of which +their orderly sergeant managed to smash in unpacking. +Called on General Whitfield, who was confined +to bed. He had sent his aide-de-camp and staff +on board <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> on our arrival. We were kindly +welcomed at East Point. The same evening there +was a croquet party; Maginac in his glory. Besides +the Grants of 9th Native Infantry and the O’Shaugnessys +of staff, Gower and Robertson from Canton +met us at dinner.</p> + +<p>Great preparations for the reception of the Duke +of Edinburgh.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 24.</div> + +<p>To church in the Jardine carriage. I had issued +a memo to the squadron yesterday that I should give +up the command this morning. Friday fixed for my +entertainment by kind Hong Kong friends. Sorry +to hear of the death of kind friend Mrs. Gilman.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 26.</div> + +<p>Our hosts got up an agreeable party at Pokofolum: +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_312">[312]</span>Alexanders, Grants, Pollards, Overbeck, and others. +Drove back by moonlight.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 27.</div> + +<p>Dined with Overbeck. Large party.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 28.</div> + +<p>The day of my entertainment. Cannot get the +idea of a speech out of my head.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 29.</div> + +<p>It came off at last—a flattering event, enough to +turn my old head, Governor and all great people +attending. My reception kind and enthusiastic. +The continued cheering tended to give me nerve.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 30.</div> + +<p>Daily papers called it “the greatest and most +successful entertainment that had ever been given in +Hong Kong.” Dined with the Commodore; one +of his good and cheery dinners. Admiral and Commanders +present. Believe I part in harmony with all.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Sabbath, +Oct. 31.</div> + +<p>At 7.30 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> was at anchor in the harbour +and galley on shore. Should have been on board by +9, but His Royal Highness had already visited the +Commander-in-Chief and made arrangements for +landing in state on the morrow; but on my pointing +out how much more convenient it would be if His +Royal Highness would defer his landing until after +departure of the mail on Tuesday, he acceeded to +this, as he has done to every proposition I have ever +thought it right to make. His Royal Highness +received me so nicely, with all the warmth peculiar to +his nature, yet never seeming to forget that I was, +or had been his Commander-in-Chief. It was +arranged that he was to call on, and lunch with the +Governor at 1.30, and dine there in the evening, +returning to <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> to sleep.</p> + +<p>As the morrow would be my last in Hong Kong, +the Duke kindly proposed that self and wife should +take a farewell dinner with him; but on my stating +the distance of East Point, and the early rising on the +Tuesday to go back to the mail steamer, he kindly +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_313">[313]</span>accepted an invitation to dine with Keswick, which +would greatly please our worthy host.</p> + +<p>Returned to East Point in time to go with wife +to church. Received the sacrament—my last in +China. At the close of the service, Buckle, the +Governor’s A.D.C., came to our pew to invite us to +meet the Prince at luncheon.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 1.</div> + +<p>Much to do at the last. Took a farewell luncheon +on board <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, meeting the Admiral and Commodore. +His Royal Highness gave me a copy of the +<span class='ships'>Galatea’s</span> voyage to Australia. Under my name on +the title page he wrote “from his affectionate +admirer.”</p> + +<p>The dinner at East Point was a complete success. +In addition to His Royal Highness and suite were +the Heards, Keswick’s <i lang='fr'>fiancé</i>, Miss de Bourg, Kellett, +Miller, Smith from Government House, Robertson, +etc. This was the great night of illuminations. We +were invited to see it from the <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, but the guide +took His Royal Highness and ourselves to the wrong +landing-place; we missed the chairs and got into a +procession of illuminated fish of gigantic size. And +the Duke mounted with my wife up a ladder into +a small Chinese theatre, which he naturally concluded +from its gaudy decoration and commanding position +must have been intended for himself. At midnight +the party dispersed, but His Royal Highness insisted +on steering his barge with the old Admiral and his +wife back to East Point.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 2.</div> + +<p>Now comes the end of my naval career in China, +where the greater part of my services for the last +twenty-seven years have been so pleasantly passed, +but everything must come to an end.</p> + +<figure class='figcenter' id='i_314'> + <img class='v100' src='images/i_314.jpg' alt=''> + <figcaption>“The Little Admiral” (Hong Kong “<cite>Punch</cite>”).</figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>I had bespoke the steam-launch to take luggage +and selves on board the P. and O. steamer, but one +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_314">[314]</span>and all appeared determined to do me honour to the +last. Although my uniforms had long since been +packed, I was to embark from the Government wharf +under a salute and with a guard of honour. At 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> +the royal standard was hoisted on board the <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, +and a general royal salute, with ships dressed, took +place. I passed the guard, with Colin clinging +to my hand. At the pier we found all the Government +officials in full costume to bid farewell to the +little old Admiral, rigged out in his Norfolk shirt and +“Rodney” hat, and instead of his galley there were +the <span class='ships'>Galatea’s</span> barge and cutter—the former manned +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_315">[315]</span>by His Royal Highness and ward-room officers, and +steered by the Commodore, to take me off; while the +latter was manned by the gun-room officers to take +the wife and children. Colin, however, refusing to +quit his hold of me, partook of the honour of being +so conveyed. Never was such a demonstration, +such a triumph, for an Admiral degraded! On +board, too, I met all my old friends. There was +the kind-hearted Governor, Sir Richard MacDonnell, +with a photograph for my wife of the house in +which, not a year ago, Colin was so near his end; +Overbeck and old Fischer’s son; honest old Henry +Kellett, my successor; the hospitable Commodore, +and the Prince, in rowing costume, with his crew, +fourteen in number. His Royal Highness came into +my cabin on deck, and there, in the quietest way, +presented me with a gold watch as a souvenir, +which he said would do afterwards for Colin, who +seized the case containing the watch and insisted +that it had been given to him! I, however, have +never been without it.</p> + +<p>On shoving off, the Prince and his crew gave +three more parting cheers. The <span class='ships'>Salsette</span> screwed +ahead to the eastward, and having gained room +turned round, passing again through the ships, when +the cheering was repeated: foreigners, as well as our +own men-of-war; even the invalids from the +hospital-ships caught the kind infection. This old +party then retired, feeling very grateful and his heart +full.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_316">[316]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_CV"> + CHAPTER CV + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Last Visit to the Straits</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1869. +Singapore, +Nov. 7.</div> + +<p>It was no small pleasure to be allowed another visit, +although a farewell one, to the Straits Settlements. +Just after sunset, as the P. and O. <span class='ships'>Salsette</span> entered +New Harbour, a larger ship than usual, loomed +through the mist—the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> on her way home. In +less than half an hour I was at dinner with Algie +Heneage. They had, as might have been expected, +a long and tedious passage down, but adhered to the +sapient instructions issued by the Admiralty, not to +use steam unless in case of danger. The extra time +and pay of the crew would be more than expense +of fuel.</p> + +<p>Both Governor and Judge had made preparations +to receive us, and had sent their carriages. It was +arranged, as the steamer would go alongside the +P. and O. wharf early to-morrow, we should land +there more conveniently, when the wife and children +should go to Sir Benson and Lady Maxwell, and I to +Sir Harry and Lady Ord.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 8.</div> + +<p>As the <span class='ships'>Salsette</span> hauled alongside the coaling pier, I +saw my old friend, W. H. Read. He was one of a +deputation who had come to invite me, on the part +of the community, to a luncheon on the morrow. +Large dinner at Government House—a palace. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_317">[317]</span>Whampoa there. He gave me a pair of cassowaries +to add to the museum on board <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, also some +pigs to establish a breed at Bishopstoke!</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 9.</div> + +<p>Had intended to have paid a visit to the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, +but continued rain set in, which lasted till it was time +to start for the entertainment, which took place in the +P. and O. Office building. His Excellency kindly +drove me there. The room was prettily fitted with +flags and flowers, while on the walls were the names +in large letters, formed with flowers, of the ships I had +served in on the station. Beginning with <span class='ships'>Magicienne</span>, +in which I was a Lieutenant, there came in succession, +<span class='ships'>Dido</span>, <span class='ships'>Mæander</span>, <span class='ships'>Raleigh</span>, finishing with the old +<span class='ships'>Rodney</span> (now without flag flying). The chair was +occupied by my old friend W. H. Read, with Sir +Benson Maxwell, the Chief Justice, on his left. The +tables were full; the guest of the day received with +cheers! The chairman came at once to the toast +which had brought them together, and went into a +long detail of the ships in which I had served and +commanded on this station, beginning with <span class='ships'>Magicienne</span>. +A laugh was raised when he alluded to +the Tumongong of Muar offering me the hand of +his daughter. “Then,” Read said, “there was the +<span class='ships'>Dido</span>. I remember her well, with her taunt spars, +sky-sail poles, flying kites, and graceful hull, +dashing about the station in every direction, and +always in for a fight when one was to be had.—The +<span class='ships'>Mæander</span>, with Sir James Brooke; his merits +recognised, the K.C.B. installation took place here. +The <span class='ships'>Raleigh</span>, in which fifty-gun frigate he sailed +into this beautiful harbour from the westward to +show his confidence in its safety, and the wisdom of +the P. and O. in taking his advice when he told them +of its existence in 1849.—Fatshan, ‘the smartest +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_318">[318]</span>cutting-out affair of modern times.’ Last comes +the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, of which vessel I can only say we have +seen too little; but we endorse the verdicts of Hong +Kong and Yokohama: he never undertook what he +did not carry out, and a better passport to posterity +after such a stirring life no man need possess.”</p> + +<p>Read concluded his speech by asking them to drink +“Long life and prosperity to the gallant Admiral, with +three times three—and don’t be afraid of bringing the +roof down!”</p> + +<p>Got through the returning of thanks with what +composure I could muster before so many good old +friends. Sir Benson Maxwell made a kind speech +about the wife and children, which was warmly received, +and to which I did my best to respond. The +meeting, which was a great success, broke up only in +time to go on board the steamer. My farewell cheer +was from the last of that noble class of ships, the +<span class='ships'>Rodney</span>. Friends had collected on the P. and O. +wharf to give us “one cheer more.”</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Penang, +Nov. 11.</div> + +<p>At 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> we anchored off Penang, my kind old +friend Lewis the first on board to welcome me; also +a letter from Colonel Anson inviting us to pass the +few hours of our stay with him. The steamer remaining +for six hours, we had only time to make a +hurried call on the Lewises before going on board. +Old Jack Rodyk on the pier to see me off. Adieu, +Penang; and adieu for ever the Straits and China!</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Galle, +Nov. 17.</div> + +<p>Came to before breakfast in what is called Galle +Harbour, but an open and dangerous anchorage. +Money has been voted to build a breakwater. We +found no fewer than five of the P. and O. steamers, +the <span class='ships'>Surat</span> being told off to take the passengers to +Suez. <span class='ships'>Surat</span> the same I came out in near three +years ago, but my old friend Dunn no longer in +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_319">[319]</span>command, having lodged his ship on a reef in the +Red Sea, from which she had a narrow escape.</p> + +<p>Keppel Garnier went at once on board the <span class='ships'>Surat</span> +to see about berths, while Risk went on shore to see +if we could not have +possession of what +is called “Queen’s +House,” the original +residence of the Dutch +Governors, who +thoroughly understood +comfort. It was +noon before he returned, +it having been +necessary to telegraph +to the Governor, Sir +Hercules Robinson, +at Colombo, for permission; +the reply +being, “Certainly, if +not occupied by Lady +Napier.” Lady +Napier was on her +way to join her husband +in Calcutta, and +sailed shortly after our arrival in the harbour. +Our steamer was to start again at 5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> for Suez, +but it was a pleasant change for the children and +ourselves, if only for a few hours.</p> + +<figure class='figleft' id='i_319'> + <img class='v50' src='images/i_319.jpg' alt=''> + <figcaption>Jack Rodyk.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>We had no sooner taken possession than the house +was inundated with venders of all sorts—curios, inlaid +workboxes, and desks of antique fashion, carved +elephants in ebony and ivory, tortoise-shell combs, +porcupine quills, walking sticks, precious stones by a +dirty native, who called himself “Stony Merchant,” +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_320">[320]</span>whose goods we were informed were all manufactured +in Birmingham.</p> + +<p>Of course the children wanted everything. Colin +got the model of a native boat, May an ebony +elephant. I treated myself to a pair of ivory ones, +which were removed from the sitting-room table while +we were at dinner, most probably by the man to whom +I had paid fifteen shillings for them. We enjoyed a +fresh-water bath. In the adjoining room was an +enormous bed, big enough not only for the Dutch +Governors of former days, but Vrouws and families! +Among the callers was Wodehouse of the Civil +Service, a nice fellow, agreeable as most of that +numerous family are. The harbour-master conducted +us on board the Government boat.</p> + +<p>It was dark, but it did not require much light to +find that the deck was covered with some thirty or +forty children, varying from the age of six downwards.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 27.</div> + +<p>Coaled at Aden.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Suez, +Dec. 3.</div> + +<p>Suez.—The <span class='ships'>Surat</span> was the first of the P. and O. +steamers that landed her passengers alongside the +wharf close to the new dock. A train took us to the +hotel, where we found the great traveller, Sir Samuel, +with Lady, Baker; they had lately been at Quidenham. +We had a walk and talk with them.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 4.</div> + +<p>The train took us off at 8 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> without giving us a +chance of seeing anything of the canal or country. +After fourteen hours’ suffering we got out of the train +and embarked in a small steamer close by, which conveyed +us to Marseilles. Hence across France and so +home.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_321">[321]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_CVI"> + CHAPTER CVI + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Some Farewell Notes</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1869. +Dec. 14.</div> + +<p>My apprehensions about my poor friend, Vice-Admiral +George Henry Seymour, were realized. Nearly the +first news on our arrival was that of his sad and +untimely death. He had early dropped the name of +George, as it was that of his respected parent, the +good Admiral of the Fleet, Sir George H. Seymour, +G.C.B., to whose residence in Eaton Square I hastened, +and was received as the oldest friend of his beloved +child. There was a letter addressed to me on the table +with touching details, which I will not reproduce in its +entirety. Henry was at the time of his death a Lord +of the Admiralty and Member for Antrim. The +following are extracts from his father’s letter:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<div class='address'> +<p class='center'> + <span class="smcap">Eaton Square</span>, <i>December 22, 1869</i>. +</p> +</div> + +<p class='cb'><span class="smcap">My dear Keppel</span>—From the long and sincere friendship +which existed between my dear Henry and yourself, I +feel certain that no one will have felt a sharper pang than +yourself when you heard of his untimely death.</p> +</div> + +<p>Sir George Seymour in the conclusion of a deeply +interesting letter, adds:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>You have many friends, but never possessed a more +sincere one than he was to you.</p> + +<p>He marked it on the very day of his death, when his +eyes flashed on seeing some one approach him; he thought it +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_322">[322]</span>was you, and holding out his hand, with a faint smile as he +did so, mentioned your name. He expired on July 24.</p> + +<p>As a faint hope, he had joined his sister, Mrs. Gore, at +Carlsbad, and Her Majesty, with her usual thought and +kindness, had sent Sir William Jenner and Dr. Ellice; +they pronounced the case hopeless.... Very sincerely +yours,</p> + +<div class='signature'> +<p class='right pr1'> + (Signed) <span class="smcap">G. H. Seymour</span>. +</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div class="sidenote">Gunton +Park, +Jan. 1.</div> + +<p>In compliance with kind invitation from the +Prince of Wales, find myself at Gunton Park. The +Princess as charming as ever, but not improved by +the new fashion in hairdressing. Took Her Royal +Highness in to dinner. Whist afterwards.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 2.</div> + +<p>Arrangements very pleasant. A cup of tea and +slice of bread and butter on being called. Breakfast +when you like at small tables. Church within a +hundred yards; singing good and sermon short. +The young Princes, Edward and George, dined +while we lunched. Informed the Prince that I was +writing to the Duke of Edinburgh. Was sent for +into the Princess of Wales’ boudoir; the Royal +children romping while the Princess carried the +baby. The Prince was there. Altogether a charming +picture.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 3.</div> + +<p>It was 7.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> before the fresh company arrived. +On going into the drawing-room the most conspicuous +and handsome (the Princess had not come +down) was the Duchess of Manchester with seven +rows of pearls, scarcely whiter than the fair neck +they were on. Old Lady Ailesbury, as young as +ever, the same flaxen hair, frizzed out. Lady de +Grey looking very piquant. They all went into +the shade when the Princess put in an appearance.</p> + +<p>Among the men, H.R.H. the Duke of Cambridge, +but little altered; Lord de Grey, Lord Hartington, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_323">[323]</span>Duke of Manchester, Lord Huntingfield, Jim Macdonald, +with his silky white hair; young Lord +Dupplin, Oliver Montagu, grown out of all remembrance, +and young Knollys. We were twenty +to dinner.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 4.</div> + +<p>The Royal brake and another open carriage took +us to the shooting ground, where we had driving +partridges until luncheon, which was hot and good, +in a farmhouse; after that, covert shooting. The +Princess and ladies came out after luncheon.</p> + +<figure class='figcenter' id='i_323'> + <img class='h100' src='images/i_323.jpg' alt=''> + <figcaption>Last of the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, 1884.<a id="FNanchor_5_5" href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></figcaption> + +</figure> + +<div class='footnotes'> +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_5_5" href="#FNanchor_5_5" class="label">[5]</a> This picture of the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> was given me by Mr. Emmanuel Emmanuel of +The Hard, in whose possession is the original oil painting.</p></div> +</div> + +<p class='mt1'><span class='sidenote'>Jan. 5.</span> +Rainy and dull morning; much chaffing and good-temper +among the ladies. Lady Ailesbury in distress +for a newspaper, which young Oliver Montagu provided +on condition of a kiss. The good-natured +Prince, seeing me in a new great-coat, made me take +his and save my own. Luncheon in a farmhouse. The +following days were passed in the same happy manner.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Jan. 10.</div> + +<p>With rest of company took my departure. A happy +visit not to be forgotten for many reasons.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_324">[324]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 27.</div> + +<p>Portsmouth.—<span class='ships'>Rodney</span> only paid off this morning. +In perfect order to the last. Some £12,000 paid to +blue-jackets and marines.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 1.</div> + +<p>The following letter reached me:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<div class='address'> +<p class='center'><span class="smcap">40 Dover Street, W.</span>,</p> +<p class='center'><i>May 31, 1870</i></p> +</div> + +<p class='cb'><span class="smcap">Dear Sir Henry</span>—The University of Oxford propose to +confer upon you, if it should be agreeable to you to receive +it, an honorary degree at the approaching Commemoration, +in recognition of your distinguished services to the country +as a naval officer. It is very pleasant to me to be associated +as Chancellor in this expression of their respect. If you +should accept the degree, it will be necessary that you +should be present in the Sheldonian Theatre at Oxford on +Wednesday, June 22. The ceremony will be over by one +o’clock.—Believe me yours very truly,</p> + +<div class='signature'> +<p class='right pr1'>(Signed) <span class="smcap">Salisbury</span>.</p> +</div> + +<p class='cb'>Sir H. Keppel, K.C.B.</p> +</div> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 21.</div> + +<p>By 2.20 train to Oxford. Wife and Georgie West +in lodgings at Muir’s in High Street, I to Richard’s +snug quarters in Christchurch. The good Tom +Garnier, Fellow of All Souls, undertaking to provide +for our party at his rooms. Dined with the Vice-Chancellor +Leighton in the magnificent library of +All Souls, meeting Lord Salisbury, Bishops, Judges, +Canons, Ex-Ministers, and all those about to be +made D.C.L.’s. Excellent dinner and some good +speeches.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 22.</div> + +<p>Accoutred in full uniform, surmounted by a +college cap, and a doctor’s crimson silk hood and +cloth robe. Assembled, according to arrangements +published in the <cite>Oxford Gazette</cite>, in the Library of All +Souls, thence to the Sheldonian Theatre.</p> + +<p>The Chancellor, heads of houses go in, leaving us +who are about to receive the distinction outside until +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_325">[325]</span>summoned. After waiting an hour and a half in the +outer hall, we went in, single file, through a +crowd, I following Robert Lowe. Cheering more or +less loud announced the entrance of the forty +candidates.</p> + +<p>Difficult to describe one’s sensation on entering +this magnificent amphitheatre; rendered still more +beautiful by tier above tier of lovely women, +each armed with a bouquet, such as the season +produces to perfection. Above the ladies, in an +upper gallery, were the undergraduates, who loudly +expressed their approval, or otherwise, of the different +persons as they appeared below to receive the distinguished +degree about to be conferred.</p> + +<p>In front of the entrance, on a throne raised to the +level of the lower gallery, which contained the ladies, +sat the Marquess of Salisbury, as Chancellor, at a desk; +supported on either side by the great dignitaries, as +well as by those who had preceded us and had +already received the D.C.L.: an imposing sight. +My place was next behind Lowe, Chancellor of the +Exchequer.</p> + +<p>As we approached, an official announced in Latin +who and what one was. This gave ample time to +those who, like myself, felt nervous as to the +mysteries of the whole affair, to look about them. +An attempt was made by some of the undergraduates +to cry down Mr. Lowe with “Non Placet,” which +called forth corresponding cheers from his friends; +the clamour and noise lasted some minutes.</p> + +<p>At last my turn arrived; name, rank, and performances +were given out, as were those of my predecessors, +in Latin. Loud and prolonged cheering. +The Chancellor rose and addressed me in Latin, after +which the bar was removed, I ascended the steps of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_326">[326]</span>the throne, shook hands with Lord Salisbury and +then took my seat with brother D.C.L.’s and held my +tongue.</p> + +<p>Lunch, including ladies, at All Souls, then to the +Floral Garden and excellent museums. Weather +hot and thirsty, with plenty of cooling drinks.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1871. +May 19.</div> + +<p>By to-day’s post received a flattering letter from +Mr. Goschen, First Lord of the Admiralty, stating +the gratification it was to him to have submitted my +name for the G.C.B. I replied that his opinion was +more gratifying than the distinguished decoration.</p> + +<p>To London. Went to the Queen’s Ball, and +met many friends.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">London, +July 3.</div> + +<p>Donned full dress uniform, without decorations; +drove to Windsor Castle, where, after an excellent +luncheon, I, succeeded by many others (being the +Senior K.C.B.), was invested by Her Majesty with +the order of the Grand Cross of the Bath—having +first been knighted. At the time of receiving the +K.C.B. got a dispensing order.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Sept. 27.</div> + +<p>Letter from the Duchess of Buccleuch, giving us +the choice of a visit to Drumlanrig before or after an +intended visit there of the Prince and Princess of +Wales. Decided on going there the latter end of +next month.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Drumlanrig, +Oct. 25.</div> + +<p>By train to Carlisle and thence to Thornhill, +where we found the Duke’s carriage, which took us +to the castle by a little after six. Nothing could +have been nicer or kinder than our reception, company +staying being nearly all connections. I took +the Duchess in to dinner. Party consisting of +Dalkeiths, Adolphus Liddell, son and two daughters, +Walter Scotts, Egremont and Gerard Lascelles, and, +as the <cite>Morning Post</cite> would say, “etc., etc.”</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 26.</div> + +<p>Party formed for the moors. Nine guns—Dalkeith, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_327">[327]</span>Walter Scott, Adolphus Liddell and his son, +two Lascelles, Colonel Thynne, who arrived last night, +Johnson Douglas, and Mr. Maxwell. A bus conveyed +us to foot of hills; four ponies for those who +liked them took us two +miles further to the +grounds. A succession +of hills covered with +heather; with the exception +of the hills +near Thirlston, the first +extensive moors I had +been on. We drew lots +for the numbers, which +gave us the different +enclosures, in which +we hid while beaters +drove: changing numbers +after each drive. Lord and Lady Creighton +arrived. Game return: Grouse, 137; Black and +gray game, 8; Rabbits, 4. Total, 149.</p> + +<figure class='figleft' id='i_327'> + <img class='v50' src='images/i_327.jpg' alt=''> + <figcaption>Duke of Buccleuch.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 27.</div> + +<p>Invitation from Mayor of Liverpool to attend +dinner given to Sir Harry Parkes. Must accept, for +November 6.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 28.</div> + +<p>Rainy day. Started, a smaller party, on the moors; +persevered until wet through, then walked five miles +home. Shot better, and killed my first black-cock.</p> + +<p>After noon arrived Lord Claud Hamilton and +Mr. R. Melville, a director of the P. and O. Co. +Our usual whist in evening; party consisting of +Lady Walter Scott, Lady Dalkeith, Adolphus Liddell +and self.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Oct. 29.</div> + +<p>Attended well-conducted service in chapel.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 2.</div> + +<p>Covert shooting without driving. A cheery +bright day. Bag: Gray fowl, 6; Pheasant, 70; +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_328">[328]</span>Partridge, 7; Wood-cock, 3; Roe deer, 2; Hares, +247; Rabbits, 66; Snipe, 1. Total, 402.</p> + +<p>After dinner, entrance hall cleared, and a piano +dance, I commencing with the kind good Duchess, +His Grace with my wife for partner. There were +waltzes and reels. No people, old or young, could +have enjoyed themselves as we did.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 3.</div> + +<p>The Duke kindly sending us to the station, +made us promise to repeat our visit as often as we +liked. By train <i lang='fr'>viâ</i> Carlisle to Liverpool, where the +Mayor, Mr. Livingston, was waiting, and conveyed +us to his country house.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Liverpool, +Nov. 6.</div> + +<p>The great event of my visit to Liverpool came off +to-day. Mayor’s dinner to Sir Harry Parkes. Had +to return thanks for Navy and self. Parkes spoke +well, giving a review of affairs in Japan, from commencement +of his appointment there to present time; +very interesting. No one ever did more brilliant +work in Japan than he did.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Nov. 30.</div> + +<p>Since the middle of the month grave reports of +the health of the Prince of Wales were inserted in +the papers. H.R.H. had been at Scarborough with +Lord Londesborough. With him was Lord Chesterfield, +who, simultaneously with the Prince and the +groom, were attacked by typhoid fever; of the three, +H.R.H. alone survived.</p> + +<p>Princess Alice had come over to spend his birthday +with the Prince, and remained to help the +Princess in nursing H.R.H., who had left London, +in the early stage of his illness, for Sandringham. +On the 30th I received a letter from the Duke of +Edinburgh, at Sandringham, saying he was delighted +to give better accounts of his brother. The Queen +had just arrived at Sandringham.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Dec.</div> + +<p>The news was better of H.R.H. up to the 11th +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_329">[329]</span>December, when a relapse took place, and his state +was considered critical. Constant delirium.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Dec. 11, +Journal.</div> + +<p>All hope supposed to be at an end. How sad +for the nation; what a kind friend I lose.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 12.</div> + +<p>Uppermost in every person’s mind is the state of +the Prince of Wales. Prayers in the churches for +him, and for the Princess.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 14.</div> + +<p>Hopes revived by telegram of improved state of +the Prince.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 15.</div> + +<p>Afternoon telegram confirming improving state +of the Prince. Fatal 14th past.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 19.</div> + +<p>Continued improvement of H.R.H. Had a chat +with the Duke of Edinburgh at Clarence House.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Dec. 27.</div> + +<p>Wrote General Knollys, congratulations to Prince +and Princess of Wales on recovery of H.R.H.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1872. +London, +Feb. 17.</div> + +<p>Fully accoutred in uniform, and the G.C.B. +collar, at an early hour to witness the grandest +function that has been performed in the largest city +of the world, friend Eyre taking me in his +brougham. Not liking to risk being late gave up +the sight of the route by Strand and Ludgate Hill, +but took the less crowded road of new embankment.</p> + +<p>Seats allotted to the officers of the Navy being the +north nave, St. Paul’s Cathedral, was in time to get in +the front row and could hardly have been better placed +to witness the touching scene of the Queen on the arm +of the still limping Prince of Wales, closely attended +by the young children and all the rest of the Royal +Family. Both the Prince and Duke of Edinburgh +recognised me as they passed. Thanksgiving +service most impressive: the whole ceremony being +a grand success. Queen, on returning by a different +route, enabled thousands of others to show their +loyalty and affection. Attended evening party, Admiralty +House, meeting Duke of Edinburgh.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_330">[330]</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1872. +Feb. 28.</div> + +<p>Wrote name in Prince of Wales’ book.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Aug. 27.</div> + +<p>This morning’s post brought letter from Mr. +Goschen, announcing his intention of submitting my +name to Her Majesty for the command at Devonport. +Announced the glad tidings to Prince of +Wales and Susan Albemarle.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Devonport, +Nov. 1.</div> + +<p>Flag hoisted at Devonport. Heard the salutes +while dressing. Donned the old uniform that had +last done duty in China.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">Sunday, +Dec. 1.</div> + +<p>On my way from church I met the Duke of +Grafton in sad distress. His Grace, with his invalid +Duchess, had arrived the previous evening at Lord +Mount Edgcumbe’s winter villa, situated by the sea, +but sheltered from everything but the sun.</p> + +<p>Her Grace, who had retired early, was off in the +first quiet sleep she had enjoyed for months, when she +was thrown into violent hysterics by the discharge of +cannon in quick succession—one, of course, the +military evening gun, but the loudest was the Admiral’s. +It was Sunday. Their Graces could not +get away; another such discharge, he believed, would +kill his wife—a repetition was not to be thought of; +if I could put a stop to the daylight gun; and I +had no doubt my friend Sir Charles Staveley would +stop the military one. By early morning the Duke +and Duchess were out of hearing.</p> + +<p>Now there was a factory within hearing, whose +workmen went in on the firing of the Admiral’s gun. +The factor, instead of coming to me to explain, reported +direct to the Admiralty. I received an order +not to omit the usual daylight gun. On foreign +stations daylight is not “made” until the event is first +reported to the Admiral. Communicated with my +Flag-Captain Heneage. Daylight was “made” at +very irregular times. I heard no more from the factor!</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_331">[331]</span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">1875.</div> + +<p>My sailor’s life has come to an end: my land one +must shortly. To describe all the hospitalities and +fun I enjoyed during the command at Devonport, +and the three-and-twenty years that have elapsed +since the flag was hauled down for the last time, +would fill many volumes. I have only space to mention +the names of some who were kind to me during +the latter part of my sailor’s life. First comes the +Earl of Mount Edgcumbe, whose kind hospitality +and the run of whose beautiful grounds caused time +to pass only too quickly. Lord St. Germans of Port +Elliot: I remember the first time I had the pleasure +of shooting over his beautiful covert of hanging +woods. Charlie Edgcumbe told me the keeper was +anxious to see my ammunition. My predecessor had +used ball cartridges from his ship’s magazine to the +danger of beaters. At Helligon, was my good friend +Tremayne.</p> + +<p>Saltram was occupied by the kind and hospitable +Hartmanns. He, alas! no more. They had frequently +with them the Marquis de Jeancourt, who +once kept a stud at Melton Mowbray, the handsome +Marquise charming, and so like her sister, the +hostess. The Master of Hounds when I first +arrived was Mr. Trelawney, the finest specimen of a +sportsman I ever saw; of him there are published +descriptions. I attended the opening and finishing +of his hunt dinners. He was succeeded by Admiral +Parker of Delamore, whose two cheery daughters +frequently led the field.</p> + +<p>Some eight miles from the dockyard residence was +the ever cheery and sporting Johnnie Bulteel, with +his pretty wife and large family; when all together it +was difficult to say which was mother. In another +direction, at Maristow, a beautiful place, was Sir +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_332">[332]</span>Massey Lopes, with a lovely wife, to whom I was +“Uncle Harry.” Nearer to the harbour was Pole +Carew of Antony, now represented by Colonel Carew, +C.B., of the Coldstream Guards. Colonel Coryton, +a good and hospitable sportsman, had a beautiful +castle, Pentillie, on the banks of the river, to which +his good sister has succeeded.</p> + +<p>Lady Ernestine Edgcumbe is now sole occupant +of Cotehele, St. Mellion, Cornwall: the same as it +was three hundred years ago. All these western +landowners preserved as well as game.</p> + +<p>On a visit to Warnham Court to my friend +Lucas, I was taken by one of his younger sons to +see their sheep. On our way I noticed a lark’s +nest, hardly discernible in the grass. Something +presently caused a stampede. The flock, apparently +a thousand, took to its heels and trotted along the +park we had just traversed. I was alarmed for the +fate of the lark and her eggs, and expressed my fears +to Lucas.</p> + +<p>“Oh!” he said. “I don’t mind betting you a +fiver that not a foot has even touched the edge of +the nest. Come and see.”</p> + +<p>We went back. It was as he said. Though the +footprints were within half an inch of it, the nest +was undisturbed. A lesson to me of the Power +which guides the instinct of animals to preserve +smaller creatures from harm.</p> + +<div class="sidenote">1876. +May 11. +Return of +Prince of +Wales +from +India.</div> + +<p>Telegram—<span class='ships'>Serapis</span>, with royal standard, passed +Portland, 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> To station to meet Waterfords +and Dowager Lady: breakfasted at Government +House, Portsmouth. Some 8000 troops to line +streets and form guards. Our party admitted into +dockyard by tickets. Progress of <span class='ships'>Serapis</span> imposing +towards the end; salutes, ships dressed and yards +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_333">[333]</span>manned. As soon as <span class='ships'>Serapis</span> secured alongside dockyard +we went on board. Duke of Cambridge there. +Nothing could exceed the kind and cordial reception +I got from H.R.H., as well as from the most charming +of Princesses, she looking so happy. Returned +to London by Royal Express. Dined with Duke of +Grafton, meeting Strathnairn, Barrington, Jim Ryley, +and Ashburton.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 9.</div> + +<p>While at Torquay seized with some internal +disarrangement. Wife in a fright. Doctor Pollard +sent for. Two visits within two hours. Chloroform +and laudanum, morphine and other poisons.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 14.</div> + +<p>My birthday. Miss glorious Ascot. H.R.H. +expected.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>June 27.</div> + +<p>An interview with the great Sir William Gull. +Was bundled off to Vichy, where I met Lord +Chesham, whose daughter had married Leicester. +Had been there before and knew how the ropes led. +Never enjoyed myself so much. We messed together; +he had a charming Newfoundland dog. Chesham +a general favourite. Frenchmen named them +“Urbanité et Fidelité.”</p> + +<p>We had mountain strawberries and cream for +breakfast. With baths, never was better, but +determined not to leave my playfellow. It was +July 16 before I got to London. The next day +was invited to a breakfast at Chiswick by the Prince +and Princess of Wales; everybody there: Emperor +of Morocco, King and Queen of Greece; all so kind +to me.</p> + +<p>While staying with Sir William Medlycott at +Ven Hall received a kind letter from the Duke of +Abercorn inviting me to join his suite in the mission +to confer the Order of the Garter on the King of +Italy: nothing could be nicer.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_334">[334]</span></p> + +<div class='sidenote'>Feb. 8.</div> + +<p>Meet of the Blackmoor Vale hounds. Digbys, +Glynns, and many friends. Country heavy from +rain. Soon found; large field. We came to a stiffish +fence with but one gap, which I left to the fair sex. +Noticed an opening at the bottom, which proved to +be a long-unused road covered with long grass. +Where there had been a gate were now heavy bars, +which I charged.</p> + +<p>Although I broke the upper bar, came down the +heaviest cropper I ever experienced. Horse by my +side in similar position, but clear of me. How long +we had been there I know not, but friend Digby, +who knew the country well, had followed the +marks of a horse to the corner. He found +horse and self as quiet as if we had been shot in +action.</p> + +<p>I know not how he got me back to Ven Hall; it was +the nearest, though I had that day been engaged to +Minterne. My old coxswain Webb was sent for. +It was eight days before I could be moved to London. +All hopes of attending the Duke of Abercorn gone. +Nothing ordered but quiet. Was conveyed to +Haslar Hospital, where I certainly secured that for +a few months.</p> + +<div class='sidenote'>April 30.</div> + +<p>The <span class='ships'>Eurydice</span> training ship was lost in a snow squall +off the Isle of Wight on March 24 with all hands +except two boys. While propped up in my bed in the +hospital, a regular installed patient—for how long?—bodies +from <span class='ships'>Eurydice</span> were constantly being washed +up, and funerals with the grand and sad Dead March +in “Saul” were of daily occurrence; passing under +my window. With the exception of a few days +yachting I did not leave Haslar until early in +August.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_335">[335]</span></p> + +<p>Space only, forbids my recalling later incidents, +which are, however, unconnected with my sailor’s +life.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>The last word must be written.</p> + +<figure class='figcenter' id='i_335'> + <img class='h100' src='images/i_335.jpg' alt=''> +</figure> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="INDEX">INDEX</h2> +</div> + +<ul class="index"> + <li class="ifrst">Abercorn, the Duke of, iii. <a href='#Page_333'>333</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Accra, i. 214, 221, 232, 238, 242; iii. <a href='#Page_72'>72</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Adam, General Sir Frederick, i. 148</li> + <li class="isub1">Sir Charles, ii. 46</li> + + <li class="indx">Adeane, Lieutenant, iii. <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Adelaide, Queen, i. 121, 160, 246</li> + + <li class="indx">Aden, iii. <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Admiralty Islands, ii. 150</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Adventure</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Africa</span>, i. 7, 12, 13</li> + + <li class="indx">Agar-Ellis, Miss, ii. 201</li> + + <li class="indx">Ailesbury, Lady, iii. <a href='#Page_322'>322</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Ainos, the, iii. <a href='#Page_199'>199</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Aitkin, Lieutenant, iii. <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Alabama</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_83'>83</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Åland Islands, ii. 232</li> + + <li class="indx">Albany, ii. 142</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Albatross</span>, ii. 81, 127</li> + + <li class="indx" id='Albemarle'>Albemarle, George, 3rd Earl, i. 59</li> + <li class="isub1">William Charles, 4th Earl, i. 4, 5, 7, 67, 102, 160, + 248, 249, 251, 252, 253, 254, + 256; ii. 41, 43, 46, 58</li> + <li class="isub1">Augustus Frederick, 5th Earl; <i>see</i> <a href='#Keppel_Au'>Keppel</a></li> + <li class="isub1">George Thomas, 6th Earl; <i>see</i> <a href='#Keppel_GT'>Keppel</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Lord, i. 14</li> + + <li class="indx">Albert of Saxe-Coburg, Prince Consort, i. 250, 251; ii. 313, 324; iii. <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>, + <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Alcock, Sir Rutherford, iii. <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a>, + <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Alexandria, i. 170, 178; iii. <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Alfred, Prince; <i>see</i> <a href='#Edinburgh'>Edinburgh, Duke of</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Algerine</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_224'>224</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Algoa Bay, iii. <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Ali, Pangeran Oman, ii. 84</li> + + <li class="indx">Ali, Patingi, ii. 7; iii. <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Alicante, i. 187, 188, 190</li> + + <li class="indx">Allen, R. C., ii. 3</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Alligator</span>, ii. 337; iii. <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Allison, William, ii. 160</li> + + <li class="indx">Alma, the, ii. 240</li> + + <li class="indx">Amaral, Don Joao Maria Farriera do, ii. 116, 121</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Amazon</span>, ii. 115</li> + + <li class="indx">Amboyna, ii. 147</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>America</span> yacht, ii. 203</li> + + <li class="indx">Amoor River, iii. <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Amoy, iii. <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Amphion</span>, ii. 47, 234</li> + + <li class="indx">Amping, iii. <a href='#Page_224'>224</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Andover, Lord and Lady, i. 7, 255</li> + + <li class="indx">Andrade, Count Manuel Carvalho Pas de, i. 40, 41, 42</li> + + <li class="indx">Anjer, ii. 129</li> + + <li class="indx">Anson, Eliza, Lady Waterpark, i. 8, 12</li> + <li class="isub1">Thomas, i. 7, 163</li> + <li class="isub1">Hon. William, i. 8, 22</li> + + <li class="indx">Armitage, Whaley, i. 85, 87, 264, 273</li> + + <li class="indx">Ascension, i. 90, 243, 244; iii. <a href='#Page_69'>69</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Ashantis, the, i. 214, 218, 222</li> + + <li class="indx">Astley, Sir Jacob, i. 14</li> + + <li class="indx">Auckland, Lord, ii. 44, 46</li> + + <li class="indx">Auckland, N.Z., ii. 171</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Auckland</span>, ii. 77, 79</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Aurora</span>, i. 14, 43, 44, 61</li> + + <li class="indx">Australia, ii. 132, 134, 152</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Australia</span>, ii. 128, 129</li> + + <li class="ifrst">Bahia; <i>see</i> <a href='#San_Salvador'>San Salvador</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Baker, Sir Samuel, iii. <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir Thomas, i. 123</li> + + <li class="indx">Balaclava, ii. 252, 255, 258, 262</li> + + <li class="indx">Balambangan, ii. 94, 127</li> + + <li class="indx">Balfour, Lieutenant-Colonel, i. 81</li> + + <li class="indx">Bali Island, ii. 131</li> + + <li class="indx">Baltic, the, ii. 220</li> + + <li class="indx">Banda Islands, ii. 144, 146</li> + + <li class="indx">Bankok, iii. <a href='#Page_229'>229</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Bannerman, Mr., i. 221, 243</li> + + <li class="indx">Barbadoes, i. 56, 108</li> + + <li class="indx">Barcelona, i. 188, 189, 191, 195-197, 200</li> + + <li class="indx">Baring, Admiral Sir Francis, ii. 201</li> + + <li class="indx">Barnard, General, ii. 246, 279</li> + + <li class="indx">Barösund, ii. 226</li> + + <li class="indx">Barrington, Commander Hon. George, i. 51</li> + + <li class="indx">Barton, A., ii. 3</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Basilisk</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_192'>192</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Batang Lupar River, i. 311; ii. 2</li> + + <li class="indx">Batavia, i. 147, 216; ii. 129, 130, 131</li> + + <li class="indx">Bathurst, iii. <a href='#Page_72'>72</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Bay of Islands, N.Z., ii. 171</li> + + <li class="indx">Beatrice, H.R.H. Princess, iii. <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Beaufort, Sir Francis, ii. 201</li> + + <li class="indx">Bedford, Mr. D. B., i. 136, 139</li> + + <li class="indx">Beefsteak Club, the, i. 96, 97</li> + + <li class="indx">Beith, R., surgeon, ii. 3</li> + + <li class="indx">Belcher, Captain Sir Edward, ii. 18</li> + + <li class="indx">Belem, ii. 213</li> + + <li class="indx">Bell, Admiral, iii. <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Belleisle</span>, i. 261, 264, 269, 272, 275, 277</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Bellerophon</span>, i. 200</li> + + <li class="indx">Bentinck, Lord George, ii. 326; iii. <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>;</li> + <li class="isub1"><i>see</i> <a href='#Cavendish'>Cavendish-Bentinck</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Beresford, Lord James, i. 187</li> + <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir John de la Poer, i. 121</li> + + <li class="indx">Berkeley, Admiral Hon. Sir George, i. 163</li> + <li class="isub1">Lady Georgina Mary, i. 163</li> + <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir Maurice, ii. 244; iii. <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Bessani; <i>see</i> <a href='#Grand_Bessani'>Grand Bessani</a></li> + + <li class="indx">“Bishop of Bond Street, the,” ii. 70</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Bittern</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Black Sea, ii. 251</li> + + <li class="indx">Bladen-Capel, Admiral Hon. Sir T., ii. 199</li> + + <li class="indx">Blake, Lieutenant, i. 42, 44</li> + <li class="isub1">Colonel, i. 75, 84, 88</li> + + <li class="indx">Blakiston, Captain, iii. <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Blanckley, Commander Edward, i. 123</li> + + <li class="indx">Bogue Forts, ii. 54</li> + + <li class="indx">Bomarsund, ii. 231, 233, 238</li> + + <li class="indx">Bombay, iii. <a href='#Page_14'>14</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Bonard, Commodore, ii. 177</li> + + <li class="indx">Bonham, George, i. 147, 263, 288</li> + + <li class="indx">Borneo, i. 290, 292; ii. 9; iii. <a href='#Page_127'>127</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Botany Bay, ii. 153, 164</li> + + <li class="indx">Boto Fogo, i. 36</li> + + <li class="indx">Bouchier, Captain, i. 273, 278</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Bouncer</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Bourbon, i. 85</li> + + <li class="indx">Bouverie, Admiral Hon. Duncombe, i. 244</li> + + <li class="indx">Bowles, Admiral, iii. <a href='#Page_281'>281</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Bowyear, Captain George Leger, ii. 57, 58, 59, 158, 177</li> + + <li class="indx">Boxer, Admiral, ii. 251, 262</li> + + <li class="indx">Boyd, Benjamin, ii. 157</li> + + <li class="indx">Bozin, Prince, iii. <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Bradshaw, Commander Manser, ii. 227</li> + + <li class="indx">Braybroke, Lord and Lady, i. 162</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Brazen</span>, i. 41, 42, 97</li> + + <li class="indx">Bremer, Captain Sir J. G., ii. 134</li> + + <li class="indx">Brierly, Sir Oswald, ii. 156, 157, 182, 203, 210</li> + + <li class="indx">Briggs, Admiral Sir Thomas, i. 168</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Brisk</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_45'>45</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Brooke, Brooke, iii. <a href='#Page_11'>11</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Rajah, i. 288-296, 298, 299, 302, 306, 308, + 312, 313, 317, 319, 333, 339; + ii. 1, 3, 6, 21, 23, 30, 43, 44, + 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, + 65, 70, 76, 82, 84, 85, 86, + 87, 90-92, 103, 111, 127, 202, + 322, 334; iii. <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, + <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Brooker, Commander, iii. <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Brougham, Henry (Lord High Chancellor), i. 97</li> + <li class="isub1">Lord, i. 11, 177</li> + + <li class="indx">Brougham and Vaux, Lady, iii. <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Broughton, Lord, i. 97</li> + + <li class="indx">Browne, Sir Samuel, ii. 45</li> + + <li class="indx">Brunei, ii. 45, 82; iii. <a href='#Page_126'>126</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Buccleuch, Duchess of, iii. <a href='#Page_326'>326</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Buckland, Francis Trevelyan, iii. <a href='#Page_82'>82</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Buckley, Commander, V.C., iii. <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Budrudeen, Pangeran, i. 306; ii. 1, 42, 84</li> + + <li class="indx">Buffalo River, iii. <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Buffon Bay, i. 209, 210</li> + + <li class="indx">Bulkeley, Sir Richard, i. 93, 98; ii. 42</li> + + <li class="indx">Bullen, Admiral Sir Charles, ii. 55</li> + + <li class="indx">Bulman, Mr., i. 257, 262, 263</li> + + <li class="indx">Bunting, ii. 21</li> + + <li class="indx">Buonaparte; <i>see</i> <a href='#Napoleon'>Napoleon</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Burdett, Sir Francis, i. 8, 9, 14</li> + + <li class="indx">Burdett-Coutts, Miss, iii. <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Burlton, Lieutenant, iii. <a href='#Page_56'>56</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Burnaby, Mr., ii. 121, 122</li> + + <li class="indx">Burton, Judge, and Mrs., i. 71</li> + + <li class="indx">Bury, Viscount, i. 254</li> + + <li class="indx">Bush, Commander, iii. <a href='#Page_221'>221</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Mr., ii. 116</li> + + <li class="indx">Butterworth, Colonel, ii. 24, 76</li> + + <li class="indx">Byng, H., ii. 48</li> + + <li class="indx">Byron, Captain Lord, i. 43</li> + + <li class="ifrst">Cabrera, General, i. 188</li> + + <li class="indx">Cagayan Sulu, ii. 97, 109, 111</li> + + <li class="indx">Cairo, iii. <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Calcutta, i. 150, 152, 333, 334</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Calcutta</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_3'>3</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Calderon, Don, i. 195</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Caledonia</span>, i. 168, 170, 200</li> + + <li class="indx">Calverley, S., ii. 3</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Cambrian</span>, ii. 46</li> + + <li class="indx">Cambridge, H.R.H. Duke of, i. 251; ii. 249; iii. <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a></li> + + <li class="indx" id='Campbell_C'>Campbell, Colonel Sir Colin, i. 262, 269, 272; ii. 80, 82, 252, + 301</li> + <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir Patrick, C.B., i. 55, 244</li> + + <li class="indx">Canning, George, i. 25</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Canopus</span>, i. 169, 170, 171, 176</li> + + <li class="indx">Canrobert, Marshal, ii. 267</li> + + <li class="indx">Canton, i. 281, 325; ii. 54; iii. <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> + <li class="isub1">River, ii. 15; iii. <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Cape Coast, i. 214, 216, 217, 221</li> + + <li class="indx">Cape de Verd Islands, i. 33, 71</li> + + <li class="indx">Cape of Good Hope, i. 68, 69, 71, 72, 77, 87, + 159, 202, 262</li> + + <li class="indx">Cape Town, iii. <a href='#Page_67'>67</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Caroline, Queen, i. 8</li> + + <li class="indx">Carteret, Captain, ii. 152</li> + + <li class="indx">Carthagena, i. 59, 198</li> + + <li class="indx">Casher, E., ii. 55, 199</li> + + <li class="indx">Castries Bay, iii. <a href='#Page_214'>214</a></li> + + <li class="indx" id='Cavendish'>Cavendish-Bentinck, Lord William, i. 84, 153</li> + + <li class="indx">Cavite, i. 331; ii. 125</li> + + <li class="indx">Celebes Islands, ii. 108</li> + + <li class="indx">Ceram Islands, ii. 146</li> + + <li class="indx">Chads, Commodore Henry D., i. 338, 339</li> + + <li class="indx">Challier, Commodore, iii. <a href='#Page_274'>274</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Charlotte, Princess, i. 6</li> + + <li class="indx">Chefoo, iii. <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Chernaze, ii. 263</li> + + <li class="indx">Chersonese; <i>see</i> <a href='#Khersonese'>Khersonese</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Chesterfield, Lord, iii. <a href='#Page_328'>328</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Chiang Kiang-Fu, i. 270, 271</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Childers</span>, i. 68, 164, 165, 174, 175, 193, + 198, 244, 272, 274</li> + + <li class="indx">Chin-kiang, iii. <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Christmas Island, ii. 75</li> + + <li class="indx">Church, Thomas, ii. 77</li> + + <li class="indx">Churchill, Captain Lord John, i. 66, 73, 77, 82, 110, 249, + 280</li> + + <li class="indx">Chusan, i. 266, 277</li> + + <li class="indx">Ciervo Island, ii. 188</li> + + <li class="indx">Clarence, William, Duke of, i. 68</li> + + <li class="indx">Clarendon, Lord, iii. <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Clark, John, surgeon, ii. 143</li> + + <li class="indx">Clifford, Sir Augustus, i. 67, 84</li> + <li class="isub1">Lady de, i. 52</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Clio</span>, i. 190, 191, 272</li> + + <li class="indx">Clyde, Lord; <i>see</i> <a href='#Campbell_C'>Campbell, Sir Colin</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Coaker, Jonas, i. 69, 83, 165, 249; ii. 53</li> + + <li class="indx">Coburg Peninsula, ii. 134, 136</li> + + <li class="indx">Cochrane, Hon. A. J., i. 27</li> + <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir Thomas; <i>see</i> <a href='#Dundonald'>Dundonald (“Young”)</a>, iii. <a href='#Page_4'>4</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Cockchafer</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Codrington, Admiral Sir Edward, i. 68</li> + <li class="isub1">Colonel, ii. 46</li> + + <li class="indx">Coghlan, Colonel, iii. <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Coke, Edward, ii. 41, 201</li> + <li class="isub1">Henry (“Wenny”), i. 249, 264; ii. 256, 281; iii. <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> + <li class="isub1" id='Coke_T'>Thomas William (Earl of Leicester), i. 7, 8, 14, 15, 47, + 278</li> + + <li class="indx">Cole, General Sir Lowry, i. 77, 78, 81, 82, 83</li> + <li class="isub1">Lady Frances, i. 78</li> + + <li class="indx">Collier, Captain Sir Francis, i. 108, 109, 112, 249, 251; + ii. 47, 82, 128</li> + + <li class="indx">Collingwood, Admiral, i. 13</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Colombo</span>, ii. 270</li> + + <li class="indx">Colonna, the Marquis de, i. 195</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Colossus</span>, ii. 312</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Columbine</span>, i. 170, 176, 180, 231, 232, 278; + ii. 116</li> + + <li class="indx">Colville, Admiral Lord, i. 29, 48</li> + <li class="isub1">Sir Charles, i. 77, 85, 87</li> + + <li class="indx">Comba Island, ii. 132</li> + + <li class="indx">Comber, Lieutenant Henry W., ii. 3, 5, 45, 58, 74, 79, + 125, 128</li> + + <li class="indx">Commerell, Admiral of the Fleet Sir J. E., ii. 73</li> + + <li class="indx">Conolly, Mr., iii. <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Constantinople, i. 175, 176; ii. 251, 312</li> + + <li class="indx">Conti, General, i. 189</li> + + <li class="indx">Cook, Captain, ii. 153</li> + + <li class="indx">Cooke, T. P., i. 97, 105</li> + + <li class="indx">Cook’s Straits, ii. 169</li> + + <li class="indx">Cork, i. 29, 30, 48, 49</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Cormorant</span>, ii. 199; iii. <a href='#Page_139'>139</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Cornwallis</span>, i. 264, 269, 272, 273, 331</li> + + <li class="indx">Corromanli, Ali, i. 172</li> + <li class="isub1">Youssuf, i. 171</li> + + <li class="indx">Corry, Admiral Sir A. Lowry, ii. 210, 224, 231</li> + + <li class="indx" id='Corve'>Corvé Bay, iii. <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Cotton, Lieutenant Alexander, i. 101, 105</li> + + <li class="indx">Courtenay, Captain, iii. <a href='#Page_198'>198</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Cracroft, Commander Peter, ii. 208</li> + + <li class="indx">Creighton, Captain, iii. <a href='#Page_187'>187</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Crimea, the, ii. 218, 244</li> + + <li class="indx">Croker, Rt. Hon. John Wilson, i. 105</li> + + <li class="indx">Crosbie, Catherine; <i>see</i> <a href='#Lady_Keppel'>Lady Keppel</a></li> + <li class="isub1">General Sir John, i. 92, 246, 248, 249, 250, 251, + 253, 255; ii. 27</li> + <li class="isub1">“Dob,” iii. <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Lieutenant John, i. 89, 91, 92, 251</li> + <li class="isub1">William, ii. 55</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Cumberland</span>, ii. 235; iii. <a href='#Page_115'>115</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Cumming, Captain Arthur, iii. <a href='#Page_76'>76</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Cygnet</span>, ii. 40</li> + + <li class="ifrst">D’Aeth, E. H. H., i. 276; ii. 3, 6, 289</li> + + <li class="indx">Dalarö Channel, ii. 224</li> + + <li class="indx">Dalkeith, Lord, iii. <a href='#Page_326'>326</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Daniell, Commander, ii. 127</li> + + <li class="indx">Darby, G. S., ii. 3</li> + + <li class="indx">Dardanelles, the, i. 176; ii. 249</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Dauntless</span>, ii. 230, 231</li> + + <li class="indx">Davis, Sir John, ii. 111</li> + + <li class="indx">de Grey, Lord, iii. <a href='#Page_322'>322</a></li> + + <li class="indx">de Horsey, Captain Algernon, iii. <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Delagoa Bay, iii. <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li> + + <li class="indx">De Lesseps, M. Ferdinand, iii. <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Delmé, George, i. 81</li> + + <li class="indx">Denison, Sir William, ii. 158, 163</li> + + <li class="indx">Dent, John, and Co., iii. <a href='#Page_143'>143</a></li> + + <li class="indx" id='Deschenes'>Deschênes, Admiral A. F. Parseval, ii. 226-228</li> + + <li class="indx">D’Eyncourt, Captain, ii. 73</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Dido</span>, i. 255, 256, 257, 262, 270, 272, + 277, 319, 326, 332, 340; ii. 1, 29, + 30</li> + + <li class="indx">Digby, Lord, i. 12</li> + <li class="isub1">Edward, i. 12, 98</li> + <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir Henry, i. 7, 12, 13, 14; ii. 219</li> + <li class="isub1">Admiral Hon. R., i. 12</li> + + <li class="indx">D’Israeli, Isaac, iii. <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Dixcove, i. 213-215</li> + + <li class="indx">D’Orsay, Count, i. 163.</li> + + <li class="indx">Douglas, Bloomfield, i. 302, 304</li> + + <li class="indx">Dover, Lord, ii. 201</li> + + <li class="indx">Drake, Sir Frederick, ii. 185</li> + + <li class="indx">Droxford, i. 249, 253; ii. 28</li> + + <li class="indx">Drummond, Edward, ii. 26</li> + + <li class="indx">Duè, iii. <a href='#Page_215'>215</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Dundas, Hon. Admiral George, i. 97, 119</li> + <li class="isub1">Admiral J. W. Deans, ii. 47, 57, 128, 201</li> + <li class="isub1">Captain Richard Deans, i. 55, 244</li> + + <li class="indx">Dundee, iii. <a href='#Page_111'>111</a></li> + + <li class="indx" id='Dundonald'>Dundonald, Earl, i. 14, 36, 38, 39-42, 163, 256, + 278, 280, 322, 331; ii. 68, 212</li> + + <li class="indx">Dunkin, Captain Thomas, i. 77</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Dupleix</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Dupplin, Lord, iii. <a href='#Page_323'>323</a></li> + + <li class="ifrst">Eager, John, ii. 7</li> + + <li class="indx">Eastern Archipelago, ii. 115</li> + + <li class="indx">Eastern Archipelago Company, ii. 63, 127</li> + + <li class="indx">East London, Port of, iii. <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Eden, Commander Henry, ii. 47</li> + + <li class="indx" id='Edinburgh'>Edinburgh, H.R.H. the Duke of, iii. <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a>, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>-<a href='#Page_315'>315</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Edinburgh</span>, i. 169, 170</li> + + <li class="indx">Elgin, Lord, iii. <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Ellesmere, Lord, ii. 61, 65, 191</li> + + <li class="indx">Ellice, Robert, ii. 116</li> + + <li class="indx">Ellis, Commander Henry, i. 127</li> + + <li class="indx">Ellis and Co., iii. <a href='#Page_223'>223</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Elphinstone, Lord, iii. <a href='#Page_14'>14</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Emhammud, i. 172</li> + + <li class="indx">Emmanuel, Emmanuel, iii. <a href='#Page_323'>323</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Emot, Captain, iii. <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Endymion</span>, i. 168, 180, 183, 184, 266, 274, + 278</li> + + <li class="indx">Enslie, Consul, iii. <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Erskine, Captain J. E., ii. 164</li> + + <li class="indx">Esche, Mr., iii. <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Espoir</span>, i. 68, 69, 77, 86</li> + + <li class="indx">Essington, Port, ii. 132, 134, 144</li> + + <li class="indx">Etholin, Captain, ii. 302; iii. <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Eupatoria, ii. 261</li> + + <li class="indx">Europa Island, iii. <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Eyre, Captain, i. 74, 260</li> + + <li class="indx">Eyres, Captain Henry, i. 242, 278</li> + + <li class="ifrst">Fairfax-Moresby, Admiral, ii. 195</li> + + <li class="indx">Farquhar, Captain, ii. 81, 127</li> + + <li class="indx">Fatshan Creek, iii. <a href='#Page_2'>2</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Fernando Po, i. 223, 224</li> + + <li class="indx">Ferraz, Captain-General Valentine, i. 187, 188, 225</li> + + <li class="indx">Figueroa, Don Cayetano de, ii. 107</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Firebrand</span>, ii. 73</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Firm</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Firmee</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_9'>9</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Fitzroy, Colonel, i. 71, 72, 87</li> + <li class="isub1">Commander Arthur, ii. 153; iii. <a href='#Page_70'>70</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Captain Augustus, ii. 40, 153, 157, 303</li> + <li class="isub1">Sir Charles, ii. 40, 153, 155, 164</li> + <li class="isub1">George, ii. 40, 153, 157; iii. <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a></li> + <li class="isub1" id='Fitzroy_M'>Mary, ii. 40, 153</li> + + <li class="indx">Flowers, Consul, iii. <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Foley, St. George, ii. 310</li> + <li class="isub1">Sir George, iii. <a href='#Page_9'>9</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Foochow, iii. <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Ford, Captain, i. 148</li> + + <li class="indx">Formosa, iii. <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Forte</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Fukevitche, Captain, iii. <a href='#Page_206'>206</a></li> + + <li class="indx" id='Funchal_Roads'>Funchal Roads, i. 30; ii. 70, 214; iii. <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Furnhjelm, Admiral Jean, iii. <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Fury</span>, ii. 115, 128</li> + + <li class="ifrst">Gage, Admiral Sir William Hall, i. 55, 81, 184; ii. 52</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, i. 100, 101, 103, 105; iii. <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a>, + <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Galle; <i>see</i> <a href='#Point'>Point de Galle</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Gambia River, iii. <a href='#Page_71'>71</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Garibaldi, iii. <a href='#Page_83'>83</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Garnier, George, i. 16, 19</li> + <li class="isub1">Henry, i. 148, 159</li> + <li class="isub1">Lieutenant Keppel, iii. <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Thomas (Dean), i. 15, 16, 25, 103</li> + <li class="isub1">Thomas, iii. <a href='#Page_324'>324</a></li> + <li class="isub1">William, i. 15</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Gazelle</span>, ii. 185, 187</li> + + <li class="indx">Geisinger, Commodore, ii. 116</li> + + <li class="indx">George IV., King, i. 74, 102</li> + + <li class="indx">Gibraltar, i. 168, 184, 189, 194, 196, 200, + 201; ii. 217, 248</li> + + <li class="indx">Gibson, Consul, iii. <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Gilford, Lieutenant Lord, iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Glanville, Mr., i. 74, 85, 86, 103, 104</li> + + <li class="indx">Gleichen, Count, iii. <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Goldsmith, Captain George, i. 68, 165, 174, 203, 206, 208, + 222, 249; ii. 68</li> + + <li class="indx">Goodwood, ii. 55</li> + + <li class="indx">Gordon, Sir James, ii. 42, 57</li> + <li class="isub1">General C. G., iii. <a href='#Page_245'>245</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Goschen, Mr., iii. <a href='#Page_326'>326</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Gough, General Sir Hugh, i. 264, 266, 272, 273</li> + + <li class="indx">Gouldisborough, iii. <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Gower, Consul, iii. <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Graham, Captain Charles, i. 331; ii. 59</li> + <li class="isub1">Sir James, i. 119, 164; ii. 210, 256</li> + <li class="isub1">Lieutenant Stanley, ii. 230; iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Grancy, Comte G. F. E. de, iii. <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> + + <li class="indx" id='Grand_Bessani'>Grand Bessani, i. 212</li> + + <li class="indx">Grant, Captain James Augustus, iii. <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Charles, iii. <a href='#Page_11'>11</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Lieutenant Hope, i. 98, 332, 333</li> + + <li class="indx">Greville, Commander Henry F., i. 68, 69, 77</li> + + <li class="indx">Grey, Admiral Sir Frederick, i. 266, 273, 278; ii. 216, 251; iii. <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Sir George, iii. <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Captain Hon. Sir George, i. 22</li> + <li class="isub1">Captain Hon. George, i. 22, 201; ii. 249</li> + + <li class="indx">Gurdon, Lieutenant, iii. <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Guyamas, ii. 190, 191</li> + + <li class="indx">Gye, Frederick, iii. <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Lieutenant Herbert, iii. <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> + + <li class="ifrst">Haddington, Lord, ii. 30, 31</li> + + <li class="indx">Hakodadi, iii. <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Hall, Captain J., i. 271, 278; iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Halstead, Admiral Sir Lawrence, i. 57</li> + + <li class="indx">Hamilton, Lord Claud, iii. <a href='#Page_327'>327</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Kerr Baillie, i. 82</li> + + <li class="indx">Hankow, iii. <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Hara-Kari, ceremony of the, iii. <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Hardinge, Lieutenant-Colonel, i. 81</li> + + <li class="indx">Hardy, Sir Thomas, i. 69, 119, 164</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Harlequin</span>, i. 60, 61, 184, 197, 200, 264, + 274, 322, 333</li> + + <li class="indx">Harris, Commander Sir W., ii. 68; iii. <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Hartford</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_183'>183</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Hartington, Lord, iii. <a href='#Page_322'>322</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Harvey, Admiral Edward, iii. <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Hastie, ii. 47</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Hastings</span>, ii. 128</li> + + <li class="indx">Hathorn, John, i. 43, 44</li> + + <li class="indx">Havana, i. 59, 60, 64, 65, 118</li> + + <li class="indx">Hawley, Sir Joseph, i. 248, 249</li> + <li class="isub1">Lady; <i>see</i> Sara Crosbie</li> + + <li class="indx">Hay, Commander John Dalrymple, ii. 116</li> + + <li class="indx">Hayti, i. 61</li> + + <li class="indx">Heki Hone, ii. 171</li> + + <li class="indx">Henderson, Commander Thomas, i. 231, 232</li> + + <li class="indx">Heneage, Admiral, i. 102</li> + <li class="isub1">Captain Algernon C. F., iii. <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Henessey, Pope, iii. <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Herbert, Sir Thomas, i. 264</li> + + <li class="indx">Hewitt, Captain, iii. <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Hickley, Captain, iii. <a href='#Page_174'>174</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Highflyer</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Hill, Colonel, i. 66</li> + <li class="isub1">Dr., iii. <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Captain Sir John, i. 107, 110, 255, 257, 258</li> + <li class="isub1">Lieutenant, i. 228, 232</li> + <li class="isub1">Lady Georgina; <i>see</i> <a href='#Keppel_G'>Keppel</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Hilliers, General Barraguay d’, ii. 231</li> + + <li class="indx">Hillyar, Lady, ii. 68</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Hind</span>, i. 168, 176, 180, 200</li> + + <li class="indx">Hiogo, iii. <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Hirado Strait, iii. <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Hislop, James, i. 71</li> + + <li class="indx">Hobart Town, ii. 157, 160</li> + + <li class="indx">Hobhouse, Sir John Cam, i. 97; ii. 47</li> + + <li class="indx">Hockham, ii. 33, 37, 38, 49, 61</li> + + <li class="indx">Hodgson, General, iii. <a href='#Page_119'>119</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Hogarth, i. 96</li> + + <li class="indx">Holkham, i. 8, 15, 161, 248, 251; iii. <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Holland, H.M. the Queen of, iii. <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Henry, Lord, i. 1</li> + + <li class="indx">Holman, Joseph, i. 85</li> + + <li class="indx">Holyoake, Mr., i. 126, 129</li> + + <li class="indx">Home, Captain Sir Everard, i. 275, 276, 277</li> + + <li class="indx">Honeywood, W. P., i. 97</li> + + <li class="indx">Hong Kong, i. 264, 278, 280, 322, 325-327, 331, + 337; ii. 113-115; iii. <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, + <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a>, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Hong-Kong</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Hooghly River, i. 155</li> + + <li class="indx">Hook, Theodore, i. 121</li> + + <li class="indx">Hope, Captain, ii. 73</li> + + <li class="indx">Hornby, Sir E., iii. <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li> + <li class="isub1">James G. P., i. 22</li> + <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir Phipps, ii. 181, 195, 131</li> + + <li class="indx">Horsey, Captain Algernon de, iii. <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>-<a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Horton, Captain Frederick Wilmot, i. 274, 276, 294, 296, 297, 312-316, + 325; ii. 40, 256</li> + + <li class="indx">Hoste, Admiral Sir William, i. 15, 22; ii. 42</li> + + <li class="indx">Howard, Commander Hon. Edward, i. 199</li> + + <li class="indx">Howden, Lord, ii. 73</li> + + <li class="indx">Hughes, Colonel, i. 93</li> + + <li class="indx">Hume, David, ii. 44, 63</li> + + <li class="indx">Hunn, Captain Frederick, i. 25, 26, 33, 36, 55, 65, + 168</li> + + <li class="indx">Hunt, Captain James, i. 304; ii. 239</li> + + <li class="indx">Huntingfield, Lord, iii. <a href='#Page_323'>323</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Hussein, Seriff, ii. 95</li> + + <li class="indx">Hutton, Lieutenant Frederick, i. 119, 124, 136, 157, 200</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Hydra</span>, ii. 65</li> + + <li class="ifrst">Ibbetson, Robert, i. 147</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Icarus</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Ichaboa Island, iii. <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Illanuns, the, i. 294</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Inconstant</span>, ii. 181</li> + + <li class="indx">India, ii. 62</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Inflexible</span>, ii. 115</li> + + <li class="indx">Ingestre, Captain Lord, i. 169, 176, 177, 187</li> + <li class="isub1">Lady Sarah, i. 187</li> + + <li class="indx">Inglefield, Admiral, ii. 76</li> + + <li class="indx">Inglis, Bishop J., i. 52, 53</li> + + <li class="indx">Inkerman, ii. 259, 280</li> + + <li class="ifrst">Jaffer, Seriff, i. 311, 317; ii. 2, 19, 21</li> + + <li class="indx">Jago, Commissary-General, i. 79</li> + + <li class="indx">Java, ii. 131</li> + + <li class="indx">Jenkins, Lieutenant Robert, i. 333; ii. 3</li> + + <li class="indx">Jephson, Dr., i. 253</li> + + <li class="indx">Jerdan, Mr., ii. 30, 62, 63</li> + + <li class="indx">“John Company,” i. 133, 134</li> + + <li class="indx">Johnson, C., ii. 3</li> + <li class="isub1">Lieutenant W. F., iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Johore, the Tumongong of, iii. <a href='#Page_122'>122</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Joinville, Prince de, i. 201</li> + + <li class="indx">Jones, Sir Harry, ii. 284</li> + + <li class="indx">Jones, Commodore Oliver, iii. <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Jonos, the, iii. <a href='#Page_165'>165</a></li> + + <li class="ifrst">Kaga, Prince, iii. <a href='#Page_169'>169</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Kalamanta Bay, i. 180</li> + + <li class="indx">Kapiti Island, ii. 171</li> + + <li class="indx">Karabonu, Cape, i. 168, 176</li> + + <li class="indx">Karangan, ii. 16</li> + + <li class="indx">Kazatch, ii. 262, 266</li> + + <li class="indx">Kearney, Major, iii. <a href='#Page_2'>2</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Kearsage</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_83'>83</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Kellett, Admiral Sir H., iii. <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Kempt, General Sir James, i. 54</li> + + <li class="indx">Kent, H.R.H. the Duchess of, iii. <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> + + <li class="indx">KEPPEL, ADMIRAL OF THE FLEET SIR HENRY:—</li> + <li class="isub1">Birth, i. 1</li> + <li class="isub1">Christening, i. 1</li> + <li class="isub1">School-days, i. 2-5</li> + <li class="isub1">Choice of a career, i. 7</li> + <li class="isub1">Preparation for the Navy, i. 14</li> + <li class="isub1">Enters the Royal Naval College, Gosport, i. 16</li> + <li class="isub1">First voyage, i. 27</li> + <li class="isub1">Marries Catherine, daughter of Sir George Crosbie, i. 249</li> + <li class="isub1">Marries Jane Elizabeth West, iii. <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Appointments in H.M. Navy—</li> + <li class="isub2">Midshipman, i. 25</li> + <li class="isub2">Mate, i. 79</li> + <li class="isub2">Lieutenant, i. 86</li> + <li class="isub2">Commander, i. 158</li> + <li class="isub2">Commodore, ii. 322</li> + <li class="isub2">Admiral, iii. <a href='#Page_15'>15</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Ships:—</li> + <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Childers</span>, i. 164</li> + <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Colossus</span>, ii. 312</li> + <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Cumberland</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_115'>115</a></li> + <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Dido</span>, i. 255</li> + <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Forte</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> + <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, i. 100</li> + <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Magicienne</span>, i. 119</li> + <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Mæander</span>, ii. 58</li> + <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Manilla</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_143'>143</a></li> + <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Pearl</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li> + <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Pelorus</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_144'>144</a></li> + <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Princess Charlotte</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li> + <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Raleigh</span>, ii. 324</li> + <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Rattler</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_143'>143</a></li> + <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, ii. 276; iii. <a href='#Page_173'>173</a></li> + <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>St. Jean d’Acre</span>, ii. 208</li> + <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Tweed</span>, i. 25, 66</li> + <li class="isub1">Naval stations commanded by:—</li> + <li class="isub2">The Cape, iii. <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> + <li class="isub2">China, iii. <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li> + <li class="isub2">Crimea, Naval Brigade, ii. 284</li> + <li class="isub2">Devonport, iii. <a href='#Page_330'>330</a></li> + <li class="isub2">S.E. America, iii. <a href='#Page_71'>71</a></li> + <li class="isub2">Straits Settlements, ii. 77</li> + <li class="isub1">Honours:—</li> + <li class="isub2">C.B., ii. 314</li> + <li class="isub2">K.C.B., iii. <a href='#Page_15'>15</a></li> + <li class="isub2">G.C.B., iii. <a href='#Page_326'>326</a></li> + <li class="isub2">D.C.L. Oxford, iii. <a href='#Page_324'>324</a>-<a href='#Page_326'>326</a></li> + + <li class="indx" id='Lady_Keppel'><span class="smcap">Keppel</span>, Lady (Catherine Crosbie), i. 249, 251, 253; ii. 27, 56, + 57, 88, 202, 207, 208, 328; + iii. <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> + + <li class="indx" id='Keppel_J'><span class="smcap">Keppel</span>, Lady (Jane West), iii. <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> + <li class="isub1" id='Keppel_A'>Anne, i. 47, 67, 247, 249; ii. 23</li> + <li class="isub1">Augustus, Admiral Lord, i. 8, 59, 326</li> + <li class="isub1" id='Keppel_Au'>Augustus Frederick, i. 254</li> + <li class="isub1">Captain Hon. Colin Richard, iii. <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a>, + <a href='#Page_273'>273</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Rev. Edward, i. 67, 203; ii. 50; iii. <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Frances, i. 254</li> + <li class="isub1" id='Keppel_GT'>George Thomas, i. 1, 5, 6, 85, 251, 253; + ii. 59, 61</li> + <li class="isub1" id='Keppel_G'>Georgina, i. 66</li> + <li class="isub1">Leicester, ii. 61, 69</li> + <li class="isub1">Maria Walpole, iii. <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> + <li class="isub1" id='Keppel_M'>Mary, i. 1, 66, 93</li> + <li class="isub1">Sophia, i. 4</li> + <li class="isub1">Thomas Robert, i. 2, 4, 7, 22, 46, 47, 67, + 81, 86; ii. 29, 45, 50, 81</li> + <li class="isub1">William, General, i. 59</li> + <li class="isub1">family of, i. 7</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class="smcap">Keppel</span>; <i>see</i> <a href='#Albemarle'>Albemarle</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Kertch, ii. 267, 270-272</li> + + <li class="indx" id='Khersonese'>Khersonese, ii. 258, 263</li> + + <li class="indx">Khoulalonkorn, King, iii. <a href='#Page_229'>229</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Kiel Harbour, ii. 240</li> + + <li class="indx">King, Admiral Sir Durnford, ii. 60, 67</li> + <li class="isub1">Admiral George, ii. 276; iii. <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Captain Philip, ii. 134, 169</li> + + <li class="indx">Kingsley, Charles, iii. <a href='#Page_114'>114</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Kingston, Jamaica, i. 60</li> + + <li class="indx">Kinmel, i. 93, 162</li> + + <li class="indx">Kissang River, i. 135</li> + + <li class="indx">Knollys, Sir Francis, iii. <a href='#Page_323'>323</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Knox, Lieutenant Thomas Owen, i. 119, 120, 124</li> + + <li class="indx">Kobe, iii. <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Korbé; <i>see</i> <a href='#Corve'>Corvé</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Korea, iii. <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Kororareka (Russell), N.Z., ii. 171</li> + + <li class="indx">Korsakof, General, iii. <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Kronstadt, ii. 230</li> + + <li class="indx">Kuching; <i>see</i> <a href='#Sarawak'>Sarawak</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Kung, the Prince of, iii. <a href='#Page_226'>226</a></li> + + + <li class="ifrst">Labuan, ii. 30, 63, 76, 82, 87, 90, 125, + 127; iii. <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Lagos, i. 238, 241, 242</li> + + <li class="indx">Lahon, Cape, i. 210, 211</li> + + <li class="indx">Lake, Admiral W. T., i. 54</li> + + <li class="indx">Lambrick, Captain, ii. 144</li> + + <li class="indx">Landon, Laetitia Elizabeth, i. 221</li> + + <li class="indx">Lansdowne, Lord, ii. 59</li> + + <li class="indx">Lante Bay, i. 170</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>La Place</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Lawrence, Captain, i. 182</li> + + <li class="indx">Leicester, Earl of; <i>see</i> <a href='#Coke_T'>Coke, Thomas William</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Countess of; <i>see</i> <a href='#Keppel_A'>Hon. Anne Keppel</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Leighton, Vice-Chancellor, iii. <a href='#Page_324'>324</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Leithbridge, Misses, ii. 55</li> + + <li class="indx">Le Marchant, Major, i. 75</li> + + <li class="indx">Lennard, Sir Thomas, ii. 45</li> + + <li class="indx">Leopold, H.R.H. Prince, i. 53; iii. <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Lescanca, Brigadier, i. 189</li> + + <li class="indx">Lesseps, Ferdinand de, iii. <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Leven</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Lexham Hall, i. 7</li> + + <li class="indx">Lichfield, Thomas, Lord, i. 7, 162</li> + + <li class="indx">Li Hung Chang, iii. <a href='#Page_245'>245</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Lima, General, i. 41</li> + + <li class="indx">Linga River, ii. 2, 19</li> + + <li class="indx">Lingghi River, i. 135</li> + + <li class="indx">Linn, Mandarin, i. 264</li> + + <li class="indx">Lisbon, i. 103, 184</li> + + <li class="indx">Lissa, i. 22</li> + + <li class="indx">Livingstone, Dr. David, iii. <a href='#Page_67'>67</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Lloyd, Mr., i. 125</li> + <li class="isub1">Lieutenant, iii. <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Loch, Captain Granville, i. 260, 261, 262, 263, 270, + 272</li> + + <li class="indx">Lockyer, Commander Nicholas, C.B., i. 167; ii. 116</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>London</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_110'>110</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Loring, Captain John Wentworth, i. 16, 17</li> + + <li class="indx">Louis Philippe, King, ii. 76</li> + + <li class="indx">Louise, H.R.H. Princess, iii. <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Low, Hugh, ii. 82, 126, 230</li> + + <li class="indx">Lowe, Robert, iii. <a href='#Page_325'>325</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Lukin, Admiral, i. 7, 14</li> + + <li class="indx">Lupar River, ii. 6</li> + + <li class="indx">Lushington, Rt. Hon. Stephen, i. 148</li> + + <li class="indx">Lyall, Sir Charles, ii. 215</li> + + <li class="indx">Lyemoon Pass, iii. <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Lynedoch, Lord, i. 54</li> + + <li class="indx">Lyons, Admiral Sir Edmund, ii. 211, 256, 267</li> + + <li class="ifrst">Macao, i. 264, 327; ii. 120; iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a>, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> + + <li class="indx">M‘Arthur, Captain, ii. 132, 144</li> + + <li class="indx">M‘Clure, Sir Robert, iii. <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Macdonald, Sir James, i. 4; iii. <a href='#Page_323'>323</a></li> + + <li class="indx">MacDonnell, Sir Richard, iii. <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Mackenzie, Consul, i. 61</li> + + <li class="indx">Macota, ii. 20</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Madagascar</span>, i. 165, 170</li> + + <li class="indx">Madeira; <i>see</i> <a href='#Funchal_Roads'>Funchal Roads</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Madras, i. 133, 134, 148, 150, 157, 158</li> + + <li class="indx">Madrid, i. 186</li> + + <li class="indx">Madura, ii. 131</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Mæander</span>, ii. 58, 60, 81, 115, 126, 130, + 155, 200, 201</li> + + <li class="indx">Magellan, Straits of, ii. 195-199</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Magicienne</span>, i. 118, 119, 133, 153, 200</li> + + <li class="indx">Magin, Captain, iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Mahé, Port, iii. <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Mahébourg, iii. <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Maitland, Admiral Sir F. L., K.C.B., i. 165, 167</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Malabar</span>, i. 169, 171, 183, 184</li> + + <li class="indx">Malacca, i. 134, 135, 137, 150, 157; ii. 24, 334</li> + + <li class="indx">Malaga, i. 185, 186, 188, 190, 196</li> + + <li class="indx">Malakoff, ii. 274</li> + + <li class="indx">Malanga, ii. 172</li> + + <li class="indx">Maldanado Roads, i. 43</li> + + <li class="indx">Mallewali, ii. 96</li> + + <li class="indx">Malone, Lieutenant, i. 17</li> + + <li class="indx">Malta, i. 75, 168, 184, 200; ii. 249; iii. <a href='#Page_117'>117</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Mambahennan, ii. 100</li> + + <li class="indx">Mamelon, ii. 273</li> + + <li class="indx">Manao, iii. <a href='#Page_169'>169</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Manchester, Duke and Duchess of, i. 57; iii. <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Manila, i. 327; ii. 124; iii. <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Maratabu River, ii. 23</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Mariner</span>, ii. 77</li> + + <li class="indx">Marjoribanks, Dr., i. 326</li> + + <li class="indx">Marmora, Sea of, ii. 249</li> + + <li class="indx">Marseilles, i. 222</li> + + <li class="indx">Martin, Admiral, ii. 239</li> + <li class="isub1">Captain George, i. 169</li> + <li class="isub1">Surgeon William, i. 75</li> + + <li class="indx">Matapan, Cape, i. 180</li> + + <li class="indx">Mataxa, Count, iii. <a href='#Page_99'>99</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Mathieson, Commander, ii. 78</li> + + <li class="indx">Maul, Fox; <i>see</i> <a href='#Panmure'>Panmure, Lord</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Mauritius, i. 85, 260; iii. <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Maxwell, Sir Benson, iii. <a href='#Page_317'>317</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Maxwell, Rev. Dr., iii. <a href='#Page_223'>223</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Mayatchni Island, iii. <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Maynard family, the, i. 164</li> + + <li class="indx">Mazatlan, ii. 185, 188</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Medea</span>, ii. 116</li> + + <li class="indx">Medhurst, Sir Walter, iii. <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Medusa</span>, i. 266, 274</li> + + <li class="indx">Melville Island, ii. 134</li> + + <li class="indx">Menai Suspension Bridge, i. 94</li> + + <li class="indx">Menschikoff, Admiral Prince, ii. 240</li> + + <li class="indx">Mexico, city of, i. 56, 64</li> + <li class="isub1">Gulf of, i. 57</li> + + <li class="indx">Meyerbeer, iii. <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Miako, iii. <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Michi, Mr., iii. <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Mikado, the, iii. <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Millett family, the, i. 253</li> + + <li class="indx">Milo, i. 68, 176</li> + + <li class="indx">Mina, Captain-General, i. 188, 196</li> + <li class="isub1">Doña, i. 196</li> + + <li class="indx">Ming Tombs, the, iii. <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Minorca, i. 14</li> + + <li class="indx">Minto, Lord, i. 255</li> + + <li class="indx">Minwaji-no-Mia, Prince, iii. <a href='#Page_286'>286</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Mitford, Bertram, iii. <a href='#Page_268'>268</a>, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Modeste</span>, i. 243, 277</li> + + <li class="indx">Moluccas Islands, ii. 147</li> + + <li class="indx">Montagu, Oliver, iii. <a href='#Page_323'>323</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Montague, Admiral Sir William, i. 169, 171, 184; ii. 205</li> + + <li class="indx">Montenegro, the Marquis of, i. 195</li> + + <li class="indx">Moore, Admiral Sir Graham, G.C.B., i. 260</li> + <li class="isub1">General Sir John, i. 260</li> + + <li class="indx">Moorsom, Captain, ii. 285</li> + + <li class="indx">Moowar, the Rajah of, i. 136, 137, 139-146</li> + <li class="isub1">River, i. 135; ii. 24</li> + + <li class="indx">Moriataba River, i. 295</li> + + <li class="indx">Mozambique Harbour, iii. <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Muda Hassim, Rajah, i. 299, 300, 301, 306, 307, 319, + 339; ii. 42, 84</li> + + <li class="indx">Mulla, Seriff, i. 312; ii. 6</li> + + <li class="indx">Mundy, Captain, i. 157, 172</li> + + <li class="indx">Murrundum Island, i. 294</li> + + <li class="indx">Musemberg, i. 73</li> + + <li class="ifrst">Nagasaki, iii. <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a>, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>, + <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Najassi, iii. <a href='#Page_201'>201</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Nakoda Bahar, ii. 6</li> + + <li class="indx">Nanbu Harbour, iii. <a href='#Page_158'>158</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Nancowry Harbour, i. 134, 285</li> + + <li class="indx">Nanking, i. 270, 271; iii. <a href='#Page_239'>239</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Nankow, iii. <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Nanning, i. 134, 135</li> + + <li class="indx">Napier, Admiral Sir Charles John, K.C.B., i. 101, 102, 107, 117, 167, + 247; ii. 53, 57, 226, 228</li> + <li class="isub1">William, i. 288; ii. 24, 64, 67, 87</li> + + <li class="indx" id='Napoleon'>Napoleon, i. 1, 86, 90, 253</li> + + <li class="indx">Napper, Surgeon James, i. 71</li> + + <li class="indx">Nash, Lieutenant Charles, i. 70</li> + + <li class="indx">Natunas, i. 294, 296, 297</li> + + <li class="indx">Navarino, i. 68</li> + + <li class="indx">Nelson, Rev. Edmund, i. 15</li> + <li class="isub1">Lord, i. 13, 15, 24; ii. 267</li> + + <li class="indx">New Guinea, ii. 148</li> + + <li class="indx">Newman, Sir Robert, ii. 276</li> + + <li class="indx">New Spain, i. 64</li> + + <li class="indx">New Zealand, ii. 152, 169</li> + + <li class="indx">Nicholai, iii. <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Nicholas I., Czar, ii. 258</li> + + <li class="indx">Nicholson, Port, ii. 169</li> + + <li class="indx">Nicobar Islands, i. 134, 284</li> + + <li class="indx">Nigata, iii. <a href='#Page_167'>167</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Nightingale, Miss Florence, ii. 251</li> + + <li class="indx">Ning Po, i. 279</li> + + <li class="indx">Noad, Lieutenant Arthur, i. 113, 203, 257</li> + + <li class="indx">Nogueras, General, i. 188</li> + + <li class="indx">Norfolk Island, ii. 165</li> + + <li class="indx">Norman, Colonel, iii. <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Norris, Sir William, i. 285, 289</li> + + <li class="indx">Northumberland, Duke of, i. 49</li> + + <li class="indx">Norton, Mrs., i. 260</li> + + <li class="indx">Nova Scotia, i. 52</li> + + <li class="indx">Novogorod Harbour, iii. <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Nwajima, Prince, iii. <a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li> + + <li class="ifrst"><span class='ships'>Ocean</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a></li> + + <li class="indx">O’Donnell, Colonel, i. 192</li> + + <li class="indx">Ohier, Admiral Marie Gustave, iii. <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Oldfield, Lieutenant R. Brice, ii. 59</li> + + <li class="indx">Ommaney, Admiral Sir John, ii. 209</li> + + <li class="indx">Onrust Island, ii. 130</li> + + <li class="indx">Ord, Sir Henry, iii. <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Orestes</span>, i. 180, 197, 200</li> + + <li class="indx">Orizaba Mountain, i. 62</li> + + <li class="indx">Osaka, iii. <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>, + <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Osmond, John, i. 84</li> + + <li class="indx">Otho, King of Greece, i. 179</li> + + <li class="indx">Ou-teng-foi, iii. <a href='#Page_235'>235</a>, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Owen, Admiral Sir E. W., i. 127, 128</li> + + + <li class="ifrst">Paddi, town, i. 317</li> + + <li class="indx">Paget, Commander Charles, i. 94</li> + <li class="isub1">Clarence, ii. 264</li> + + <li class="indx">Pakington, Sir John, iii. <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Pakoo, i. 318</li> + + <li class="indx">Palmas, Cape, i. 211</li> + + <li class="indx">Palmerston, Lord, i. 185; ii. 123, 182, 256; iii. <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>, + <a href='#Page_100'>100</a></li> + + <li class="indx" id='Panmure'>Panmure, Lord, i. 162; iii. <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>-<a href='#Page_17'>17</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Papua, ii. 148</li> + + <li class="indx">Parker, Rev. Dr., i. 281</li> + <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir William Hyde, i. 191, 193, 195, 198, 254, 264, + 266, 271, 272, 273, 278, 325; + ii. 27, 31</li> + + <li class="indx">Parkes, Sir Henry, i. 264, 278; iii. <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, + <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a>, + <a href='#Page_328'>328</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Paros, i. 179</li> + + <li class="indx">Parseval Deschênes; <i>see</i> <a href='#Deschenes'>Deschênes</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Partridge, family, i. 5; ii. 49</li> + + <li class="indx">Partridge, C., ii. 61</li> + + <li class="indx">Paterson, Mr., i. 66, 67</li> + + <li class="indx">Patingi, Ali, ii. 7</li> + + <li class="indx">Patterson, Admiral, i. 52</li> + <li class="isub1">Charles, i. 52</li> + + <li class="indx">Patusen, ii. 2, 3, 5</li> + + <li class="indx">Pechell, Captain, ii. 299</li> + + <li class="indx">Peck, Henry and George, i. 73</li> + + <li class="indx">Pedro, Don, i. 40</li> + + <li class="indx">Peel, Sir Lawrence, i. 335</li> + + <li class="indx">Peiho River, iii. <a href='#Page_171'>171</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Peking, i. 81; iii. <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Pelham, Dudley, i. 166</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Pelican</span>, i. 226, 231, 242, 277</li> + + <li class="indx">Pell, Sir Watkin, ii. 43</li> + + <li class="indx">Pelorus, ii. 144</li> + + <li class="indx">Penang, i. 146, 149, 282, 333, 337; ii. 334; iii. <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, + <a href='#Page_229'>229</a>, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Penelope</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_283'>283</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Penguin Island, i. 203, 208</li> + + <li class="indx">Percy, Admiral Hon. Josceline, ii. 199</li> + + <li class="indx">Percy, Captain Joseph, i. 169, 176</li> + + <li class="indx">Perim, iii. <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Pernambuco, i. 41, 42</li> + + <li class="indx">Perote, i. 64</li> + + <li class="indx">Perry, Dare and Co., Messrs., i. 135</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Perseus</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Petropaulovski, i. 178; iii. <a href='#Page_208'>208</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Pettigrew, Dr., i. 100</li> + + <li class="indx">Pfingsten, Major, iii. <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Phlegethon</span>, i. 278; ii. 1, 3, 6, 77, 84, 234</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Piraeus</span>, the, i. 178</li> + + <li class="indx">Plampin, Admiral, i. 48</li> + + <li class="indx">Plumridge, Admiral J. H., i. 119, 121, 135; ii. 76, 231; iii. <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Plymouth</span>, ii. 121</li> + + <li class="indx" id='Point'>Point de Galle, iii. <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Po-leng, iii. <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Polkinghorne, Commander James, i. 79</li> + + <li class="indx">Pomony, iii. <a href='#Page_56'>56</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Pontranini, ii. 20</li> + + <li class="indx">Poore, Sir E., ii. 41</li> + + <li class="indx">Popham, Commander Brunswick, i. 226, 231, 232, 242, 243</li> + + <li class="indx">Popoe, Little, i. 235, 236</li> + + <li class="indx">Porchester Castle, i. 52</li> + + <li class="indx">Porirua, Cape, ii. 171</li> + + <li class="indx">Port-au-Prince, i. 61</li> + + <li class="indx">Portendick, i. 202</li> + + <li class="indx">Porter, Captain, i. 98</li> + + <li class="indx">Port Jackson, ii. 152, 153</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Portland</span>, i. 178, 180</li> + + <li class="indx">Port Louis, i. 77, 79, 85</li> + + <li class="indx">Port Mahon, i. 194</li> + + <li class="indx">Port Nicholson, ii. 171</li> + + <li class="indx">Porto Praya, i. 69, 204</li> + + <li class="indx">Port Royal, Jamaica, i. 57, 60, 62, 112, 113</li> + + <li class="indx">Posietta Bay, iii. <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Potoo, i. 278</li> + + <li class="indx">Pottinger, Sir Henry, i. 264, 271, 272, 273, 278, 322</li> + <li class="isub1">Major, i. 327</li> + + <li class="indx">Price, Captain David, i. 178</li> + + <li class="indx">Prince Edward’s Island, ii. 73</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Princess Charlotte</span>, i. 52; iii. <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Prince’s Island, i. 224, 225, 229, 237, 244</li> + + <li class="indx" id='PrincessRoyal'>Princess Royal, the, i. 253; iii. <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Province Wellesley, i. 283</li> + + <li class="indx">Pulo Sabu, i. 288</li> + + <li class="ifrst">Queensberry, Marquis of, iii. <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Quidenham, i. 1, 8, 9, 93; ii. 56, 65</li> + + <li class="indx">Quin, Captain Michael, ii. 23</li> + + <li class="indx">Quitta, i. 235, 240</li> + + <li class="ifrst">Raffles, Sir Stamford, i. 285; ii. 76</li> + + <li class="indx">Raffles Bay, ii. 134</li> + + <li class="indx">Raglan, Lord, ii. 256, 264, 275</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Raleigh</span>, ii. 324, 336; iii. <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Ramsay, Captain, ii. 235</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Ranee</span>, ii. 86</li> + + <li class="indx">Ranelagh, Lord, i. 196</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Rattler</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Rattlesnake</span>, ii. 153</li> + + <li class="indx">Read, Lieutenant Charles B., ii. 58, 72</li> + <li class="isub1">W. H., i. 289; iii. <a href='#Page_317'>317</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Lieutenant (U.S.N.), iii. <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Redan, the, ii. 274, 299-304</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Revenge</span>, i. 200</li> + + <li class="indx">Reynolds, Admiral Barrington, ii. 199</li> + + <li class="indx">Rice, Edward, i. 169, 248, 260, 264, 274, 277</li> + <li class="isub1">family, the, i. 248</li> + + <li class="indx">Rich, Henry, i. 96</li> + + <li class="indx">Richmond, Duke of, i. 72, 253</li> + <li class="isub1">Duchess of, i. 72</li> + + <li class="indx">Rigby, Colonel, iii. <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Rinaldo</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Rio de Janeiro, i. 36, 42, 43, 123; ii. 72, 198; + iii. <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Rio de la Plata, i. 43</li> + + <li class="indx">Risk, W. B., iii. <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Rivers, Lieutenant, ii. 47</li> + + <li class="indx">Roberts, Captain Sir Samuel, i. 168, 180</li> + + <li class="indx">Robinson, Commander, iii. <a href='#Page_221'>221</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Sir Hercules, iii. <a href='#Page_319'>319</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Roches, M., iii. <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, i. 191, 192, 193, 196, 197, 200; + ii. 276, 304; iii. <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a>, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a>, + <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Rodyk, Jack, iii. <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Roe, Sir Frederick and Lady, ii. 45</li> + + <li class="indx">Rokeby, General Lord, ii. 246, 255</li> + + <li class="indx">Romney family, the, i. 257</li> + + <li class="indx">Rose, Sir Hugh, iii. <a href='#Page_14'>14</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Rosebery, Lord, i. 7</li> + + <li class="indx">Rouen, Baron de Forth, ii. 117</li> + + <li class="indx">Rougemont, Lieutenant, iii. <a href='#Page_187'>187</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Rous, Admiral Hon. Henry, i. 87, 90; iii. <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Rowley, Sir Charles, ii. 27</li> + <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir Josias, i. 168, 180, 182, 183, 185, 201, + 247; ii. 39</li> + <li class="isub1">Josias (junior), i. 261</li> + <li class="isub1">Admiral Samuel, ii. 32</li> + + <li class="indx">Roy, Captain, iii. <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Rubielo, i. 188</li> + + <li class="indx">Ryder, Captain A. P., ii. 230</li> + + <li class="ifrst">Sacrificios, i. 114</li> + + <li class="indx">Sadong River, i. 311; ii. 85</li> + + <li class="indx">Saghalien Island, iii. <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Sahib, Seriff, ii. 2, 5, 20</li> + + <li class="indx">Saigon, iii. <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> + + <li class="indx">St. Angelo, Cape, i. 178</li> + + <li class="indx">St. Barbara River, i. 227</li> + + <li class="indx">San Domingo, i. 16, 61, 163</li> + + <li class="indx">St. Helena, i. 90</li> + + <li class="indx">St. Jago de Cuba, i. 33, 61, 69, 204, 261</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>St. Jean d’Acre</span>, ii. 208, 233, 243</li> + + <li class="indx">St. John, Sir Spenser, ii. 69</li> + + <li class="indx">St. Juan d’Ulloa, i. 62</li> + + <li class="indx">St. Paul’s, Cape, i. 235, 238</li> + <li class="isub1">Island, i. 123</li> + <li class="isub1">Roads, i. 85</li> + + <li class="indx" id='San_Salvador'>San Salvador, i. 38, 39, 40; iii. <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a></li> + + <li class="indx">St. Thomas Island, i. 229; iii. <a href='#Page_73'>73</a></li> + + <li class="indx">St. Vincent, i. 97, 107</li> + + <li class="indx">Sakai, iii. <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Salamanca, i. 82</li> + + <li class="indx">Salamis, Bay of, i. 179</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, + <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Salisbury, Lord, i. 177; iii. <a href='#Page_324'>324</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Saltoun, General Lord, i. 252, 264, 327, 332</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Samarang</span>, ii. 18</li> + + <li class="indx">Sambas River, i. 292</li> + + <li class="indx">Sandilands, Commander A. A., i. 129</li> + + <li class="indx">Sandringham, iii. <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Sandwich Islands, i. 43; ii. 151</li> + + <li class="indx">Santobong, ii. 112</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Saracen</span>, i. 203, 223, 228, 231, 232, 239, + 240</li> + + <li class="indx" id='Sarawak'>Sarawak, i. 294, 296, 304, 319, 339; ii. 21, 83, + 112; iii. <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Sarebas, the, ii. 127</li> + <li class="isub1">River, i. 311</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Satellite</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_122'>122</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Satsuma, Prince, iii. <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Saumarez, Sir James, i. 69</li> + <li class="isub1">Captain, i. 326</li> + + <li class="indx">Saxe-Weimar, Duke Bernard of, ii. 131</li> + <li class="isub1">Prince Edward of, ii. 253</li> + + <li class="indx">Schomberg, Commodore, i. 85, 87</li> + + <li class="indx">Scott, Captain Lord Charles, iii. <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Captain Frank, i. 103, 190; ii. 7</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Scout</span>, i. 167, 170, 225, 231, 232, 240, + 242</li> + + <li class="indx">Sebastopol; <i>see</i> <a href='#Sevastopol'>Sevastopol</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Seboo, ii. 2</li> + + <li class="indx">Sekarran, country, ii. 2</li> + <li class="isub1">River, i. 312; ii. 6</li> + + <li class="indx">Sekarrans, the, ii. 1, 127</li> + + <li class="indx">Senegal, i. 238</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Serapis</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_332'>332</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Seriff Jaffer, ii. 2</li> + + <li class="indx">Seton, Sir Henry, i. 335</li> + + <li class="indx" id='Sevastopol'>Sevastopol, ii. 240, 254, 256, 264</li> + + <li class="indx">Seymour family, the, i. 253</li> + <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir George, i. 163, 198, 258; ii. 327; iii. <a href='#Page_321'>321</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Admiral G. Henry, i. 198, 200, 275, 277, 278, 322, + 333; ii. 235; iii. <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Admiral Lord Hugh, i. 16, 17</li> + <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir Michael, i. 55; ii. 209, 238, 337; iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Michael (junior), iii. <a href='#Page_3'>3</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Lord William, ii. 235</li> + + <li class="indx">Shakotan Bay, iii. <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Shanghai, i. 266, 277; iii. <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Shaw, Whitehead and Co., i. 288</li> + + <li class="indx">Shepherd, Captain, ii. 182</li> + <li class="isub1">Quartermaster John, ii. 274, 282</li> + + <li class="indx">Sheridan, Charles, i. 260</li> + <li class="isub1">Francis, i. 260, 261, 262</li> + + <li class="indx">Sheriff, Admiral, ii. 47, 56, 60</li> + + <li class="indx">Shrewsbury, Lord, i. 187</li> + + <li class="indx">Shunski, Ito, iii. <a href='#Page_183'>183</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Siefukigi Temple, iii. <a href='#Page_183'>183</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Sierra Leone, i. 202, 203, 233; iii. <a href='#Page_70'>70</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Simmons, Mr., purser, ii. 80</li> + + <li class="indx">Simoneseki Straits, iii. <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Simon’s Bay, i. 71, 74, 75, 77, 83, 86, 261; + iii. <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Simpson, Arthur Bridgman, i. 70, 71</li> + <li class="isub1">General, i. 81; ii. 279</li> + <li class="isub1">Dr., i. 271, 319, 322, 323</li> + + <li class="indx">Sinclair, Major, i. 291</li> + + <li class="indx">Singapore, i. 147, 157, 263, 281, 285, 288, + 322, 333, 338; ii. 23, 24, 75, 77, + 111, 128, 129; iii. <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, + <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Sir Charles Forbes</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Skipsey, Commodore, i. 76</li> + + <li class="indx">Skipwith family, the, i. 253; ii. 48</li> + <li class="isub1">Lieutenant Grey, i. 165, 191, 193, 252, 264, 272, + 273, 278, 279, 291; ii. 65</li> + + <li class="indx">Smith, Lieutenant Christopher, i. 63, 71</li> + + <li class="indx">Smyrna, i. 168, 175, 176</li> + + <li class="indx">Sober Island, i. 127</li> + + <li class="indx">Somerset, the Duke of, iii. <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Lord Charles Fitzroy, i. 72</li> + + <li class="indx">Soult, Marshal, i. 247</li> + + <li class="indx">Spalding, John, i. 98</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Spartan</span>, ii. 41</li> + + <li class="indx">Speke, Captain John Hanning, iii. <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Spencer, Earl, i. 102, 103, 253</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Sphynx</span>, ii. 52</li> + + <li class="indx">Spurrier, Mr., iii. <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Stanhope, Captain, iii. <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Elizabeth, i. 8</li> + <li class="isub1">Spencer, i. 8</li> + + <li class="indx">Stanley, Captain Owen, i. 291; ii. 134, 142, 153, 156</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Stanley</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Staveley, Captain, ii. 117-123</li> + <li class="isub1">General, ii. 117</li> + + <li class="indx">Stephenson, Augustus, ii. 240</li> + <li class="isub1">Commander Henry Frederick, i. 66, 93, 96, 97, 119, 164; + ii. 219; iii. <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>-<a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Henry (junior), ii. 219, 233</li> + <li class="isub1">Lady Mary; <i>see</i> <a href='#Keppel_M'>Keppel</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Steward, Mr., ii. 7</li> + + <li class="indx">Stewart, Mrs. Keith; <i>see</i> <a href='#Fitzroy_M'>Fitzroy, Mary</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Stoddard, Consul, ii. 70</li> + + <li class="indx">Stopford, Admiral Sir Robert, i. 201; ii. 46, 55</li> + + <li class="indx">Straits Settlements, the, iii. <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Strongiolo Bay, i. 179</li> + + <li class="indx">Suckling, i. 20, 24</li> + + <li class="indx">Suez, iii. <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Suffield, Lord and Lady, i. 162</li> + + <li class="indx">Suffolk, Earl of, i. 97</li> + + <li class="indx">Sullivan, Sir Charles, Bart., i. 59</li> + + <li class="indx">Sulu, the Sultan of, ii. 104</li> + + <li class="indx">Sumatra, i. 149</li> + + <li class="indx">Summers, Mr., ii. 118-123</li> + + <li class="indx">Sunda, Straits of, i. 147, 263; ii. 75</li> + + <li class="indx">Surtees family, i. 5</li> + + <li class="indx">Sussex, H.R.H. Augustus, Duke of, i. 9, 11, 66, 93, 97, 160, + 161, 246, 247, 249, 322</li> + + <li class="indx">Suttie, Captain Francis, iii. <a href='#Page_115'>115</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Swan, Commander John, iii. <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Swansen, Mr., i. 214, 215, 216, 219-221</li> + + <li class="indx">Swatow, iii. <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Swinhoe, Consul, iii. <a href='#Page_237'>237</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Sybille</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Sydney, ii. 152, 153, 154, 164</li> + + <li class="indx">Symonds, Sir William, i. 169; ii. 41, 46</li> + + <li class="indx">Syra, i. 180</li> + + + <li class="ifrst">Tagus, River, ii. 213</li> + + <li class="indx">Tahiti, ii. 177</li> + + <li class="indx">Tai-wan-foo, iii. <a href='#Page_224'>224</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Taki Zingaburo, iii. <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Taku Forts, iii. <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a>, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Talavera</span>, i. 169, 171</li> + + <li class="indx">Talbot, Captain Charles, i. 123</li> + + <li class="indx">Talleyrand, Prince, i. 162, 247</li> + + <li class="indx">Tambilan Islands, i. 292, 338</li> + + <li class="indx">Tampico, i. 58, 64, 65, 113</li> + + <li class="indx">Tangiers, i. 168</li> + + <li class="indx">Tang-Tau, iii. <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Tanjong Datu, i. 294; ii. 83; iii. <a href='#Page_123'>123</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Tanjong Po, i. 295; ii. 83</li> + + <li class="indx">Tarragona, i. 189, 196</li> + + <li class="indx">Tartary, Gulf of, iii. <a href='#Page_192'>192</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Tasmania, ii. 157</li> + + <li class="indx">Taylor, pilot, i. 257</li> + + <li class="indx">Tchung-How, iii. <a href='#Page_263'>263</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Templer, John, ii. 43, 62</li> + <li class="isub1">J. L. B., ii. 43</li> + + <li class="indx">Termination Island, iii. <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Thackeray, William Makepeace, iii. <a href='#Page_82'>82</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Thistlethwaite, Mr., i. 251</li> + + <li class="indx">Thompson, Deas, ii. 157</li> + + <li class="indx">Thompson, Rev. Josias, ii. 328; iii. <a href='#Page_9'>9</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Thours, Captain Du Petit, iii. <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a>, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Thunderer</span>, i. 121, 169, 170, 180</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Tien Chi</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Tientsin, iii. <a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Tillenadin, Conanyaga Modr, i. 128</li> + + <li class="indx">Tomari, iii. <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Tombeaux Bay, iii. <a href='#Page_65'>65</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Tonga Tabu, ii. 172</li> + + <li class="indx">Toolyan Island, ii. 106</li> + + <li class="indx">Torres, Captain de, i. 36</li> + + <li class="indx">Torres Straits, ii. 142</li> + + <li class="indx">Tortoza, i. 188</li> + + <li class="indx">Tosa, Prince, iii. <a href='#Page_170'>170</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Tottenham, Lieutenant, i. 258, 285; ii. 81</li> + + <li class="indx">Townshend, Captain Lord James, i. 123</li> + + <li class="indx">Tracey, Commander, iii. <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Trade Town, i. 203, 206</li> + + <li class="indx">Trafalgar, i. 7, 12</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Tribune</span>, i. 169, 175, 183, 189; iii. <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Trincomalee, i. 125, 128, 147, 157</li> + + <li class="indx">Tripoli, i. 171, 178</li> + + <li class="indx">Tristan d’Achuna, i. 123</li> + + <li class="indx">Trollope, Commander, iii. <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Trowbridge, Captain Sir Thomas, i. 257, 272; ii. 116, 117, 120</li> + + <li class="indx">Troy, i. 178</li> + + <li class="indx">Tseng Kuo-fau, iii. <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Tumongong of Singapore, the, ii. 81, 82</li> + + <li class="indx">Turnour, Captain Edward W., i. 333; ii. 3-7, 336; iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Twanai, iii. <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Tweed</span>, i. 19, 25, 46, 65, 66, 67, + 85</li> + + <li class="indx">Twofold Bay, ii. 157</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Tyne</span>, i. 169, 176, 187, 189, 200</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><span class='ships'>Undaunted</span>, i. 67, 84</li> + + <li class="indx">Undop, ii. 5, 6, 19</li> + + <li class="ifrst">Valencia, i. 187, 191, 195</li> + + <li class="indx">Valparaiso, ii. 195</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Venus</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Vera Cruz, i. 57, 58, 62, 65</li> + + <li class="indx">Vernon, Lord, i. 184</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Vernon</span>, i. 169, 180</li> + + <li class="indx">Victor of Hohenlohe, Prince, ii. 235; iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Victoria, Queen, i. 247, 250, 251; ii. 218, 313, 324; iii. <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, + <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Princess; <i>see</i> <a href='#PrincessRoyal'>Princess Royal</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Victory</span>, i. 53</li> + + <li class="indx">Villa Nueva, i. 200</li> + + <li class="indx">Vizeu, Francisco Nunes Sweezer, i. 2, 103</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Vladimir</span>, ii. 302</li> + + <li class="indx">Vladivostock, iii. <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Vlangali, A., iii. <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Volage</span>, i. 169, 180</li> + + <li class="indx">Von Brockhausen, Baron, i. 191</li> + + <li class="indx">Vourla, i. 168, 170, 171, 173</li> + + <li class="ifrst">Wade, Sir Thomas, i. 81</li> + <li class="isub1">Colonel, i. 81</li> + <li class="isub1">Lieutenant C. F., ii. 3, 6, 14</li> + + <li class="indx">Waitemata Harbour, ii. 171</li> + + <li class="indx">Wales, H.R.H. the Prince of, i. 96, 257; iii. <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>, + <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a>, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a>, <a href='#Page_332'>332</a>, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a></li> + <li class="isub1">H.R.H. the Princess of, iii. <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Walker, Captain Sir Baldwin, i. 201; ii. 208; iii. <a href='#Page_74'>74</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Walpole-Keppel, family of, i. 7</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Wanderer</span>, i. 275, 333</li> + + <li class="indx">Waring, Mr., i. 187</li> + + <li class="indx">Warren, Admiral, i. 121; iii. <a href='#Page_75'>75</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Warrington, Colonel, i. 172</li> + + <li class="indx">Waterford, Lord, i. 246</li> + + <li class="indx">Waterloo, Battle of, i. 1, 72, 86</li> + + <li class="indx">Waterpark, Eliza, Lady, i. 8</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Waterwitch</span>, i. 223, 227, 228</li> + + <li class="indx">Watson, Captain, i. 274, 277, 278</li> + + <li class="indx">Wellesley, Captain George, iii. <a href='#Page_14'>14</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Wellesley</span>, ii. 68</li> + + <li class="indx">Wellington, Duke of, i. 82, 86, 247, 256; ii. 206</li> + + <li class="indx">Wellington, N.Z., ii. 171</li> + + <li class="indx">Wemyss and March, Earl of, i. 8</li> + <li class="isub1">Frederica, Countess of, i. 8</li> + + <li class="indx">West, Green, i. 71</li> + <li class="isub1">Jane; <i>see</i> <a href='#Keppel_J'>Keppel, Lady</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Rev. Richard, iii. <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Whampoa, i. 323; ii. 80, 116; iii. <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a>, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Whichcote, Sir Thomas, iii. <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> + + <li class="indx">White, Admiral Sir John, ii. 29</li> + + <li class="indx">Whitehead, Mr., i. 322</li> + + <li class="indx">Whitshed, Admiral Sir James Hawkins, i. 27</li> + + <li class="indx">Whydah, i. 237, 239</li> + + <li class="indx">Whytock, Colonel, ii. 60</li> + + <li class="indx">Wildman, Colonel, i. 11</li> + + <li class="indx">William IV., King, i. 102, 120, 121, 160, 161, 163, + 200</li> + + <li class="indx">Williams, Sir John, i. 94</li> + <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir Thomas, G.C.B., i. 94, 165</li> + + <li class="indx">Williamson, Mr., i. 302; ii. 7</li> + + <li class="indx">Willoughby, James, iii. <a href='#Page_117'>117</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Wilson, Lieutenant A. K., iii. <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li> + <li class="isub1">family, the, i. 51</li> + + <li class="indx">Windham, General Charles, ii. 260, 300, 301</li> + <li class="isub1">Mr., ii. 101, 105</li> + + <li class="indx">Windsor, iii. <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Wise, Henry, ii. 43, 62, 63</li> + <li class="isub1">Captain W., i. 169</li> + + <li class="indx">Wodehouse, George, i. 103</li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Wolverine</span>, i. 199, 200, 281; ii. 24</li> + + <li class="indx">Wood, Sir Charles, iii. <a href='#Page_9'>9</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Rev. James, i. 2, 4</li> + + <li class="indx">Woosung, i. 266-269, 275; iii. <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Würtemburg, the Prince of, i. 115</li> + + <li class="indx">Wynberg, i. 71</li> + + <li class="ifrst">Xalapa, i. 57, 63, 64</li> + + <li class="indx">Xavier, St. Francis, i. 150</li> + + <li class="indx">Xeres, i. 184</li> + + <li class="ifrst">Yang-tse-kiang River, i. 268, 269; iii. <a href='#Page_237'>237</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Yarborough, Lord, i. 166</li> + + <li class="indx">Yates, Mr., i. 66</li> + + <li class="indx">Yedo, iii. <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Yeh, Admiral, iii. <a href='#Page_6'>6</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Yeng Cheow, iii. <a href='#Page_223'>223</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Yesso, iii. <a href='#Page_164'>164</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Yo-chow, iii. <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Yokohama, iii. <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, + <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a>, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Yokosha, iii. <a href='#Page_191'>191</a></li> + + <li class="indx">York, Cape, ii. 142</li> + + <li class="indx">Young, Captain, ii. 79</li> + + <li class="indx">Yule, Lieutenant, ii. 165</li> + + <li class="ifrst">Zante, i. 180, 182</li> + + <li class="indx">Zanzibar, iii. <a href='#Page_57'>57</a></li> + <li class="isub1">the Sultan of, iii. <a href='#Page_62'>62</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Zebra</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li> +</ul> + +<p>THE END</p> + +<p><i>Printed by</i> <span class="smcap">R. & R. Clark, Limited</span>, <i>Edinburgh</i>.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_351">[351]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak"> + MACMILLAN AND CO.’S NAVAL WORKS. + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='hang'><b>THE NAVAL HISTORY OF GREAT BRITAIN.</b> From the Declaration of War +by France in 1793, to the Accession of George IV. By <span class="smcap">William +James</span>. With a Continuation of the History to the Battle of +Navarino, by Captain <span class="smcap">Chamier</span>. With portraits on Steel +of William James, Lord Nelson, Sir Thomas Troubridge, Earl St. +Vincent, Lord Duncan, Sir Hyde Parker, Sir Nesbit Willoughby, Sir +William Hoste, Lord Hood, Earl Howe, Sir Sidney Smith, and Lord +Dundonald. 6 vols. Crown 8vo. 42s.</p> + +<p class='mtq'><i>FORTNIGHTLY REVIEW.</i>—“James, one of the most pertinacious of investigators, +set a new example. He honestly did his utmost to satisfy himself of the absolute +truth of every statement which he submitted to his readers. He wrote hundreds of letters +to the surviving actors in the events which he purposed to describe. He read and digested +all the despatches, logs, gazettes, previous histories, foreign reports, and private narratives +on which he could lay his hands. He carefully balanced conflicting accounts, and arrived +in the majority of instances at conclusions the correctness of which has never yet been +successfully attacked. He went to immense pains to give the exact Christian names of +all officers whom he had occasion to mention, and to analyse the true force of every ship +the exploits of which he recounted. Never was there a man more painstaking, more +indefatigable, more scrupulously conscientious.”</p> + +<p><i>EDINBURGH REVIEW.</i>—“This book is one of which it is not too high praise to +assert that it approaches as nearly to perfection in its own line as any historical work perhaps +ever did.”</p> + +<p class='center mt1 fs120 sans'><i>Edited by THE TWELFTH EARL OF DUNDONALD.</i></p> + +<p class='hang mth'><b>THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF A SEAMAN: Thomas, Tenth Earl of +Dundonald.</b> Popular Edition, with a Sequel relating Lord Dundonald’s services in +South America, and in the War of the Greek Independence, and with an account of +his later life and scientific inventions. With Portraits, Charts, and Nine Illustrations +on Wood. Crown 8vo. 6s.</p> + +<p class='mtq'><i>TIMES.</i>—“Full of brilliant adventure, described with a dash that well befits the deeds.”</p> + +<p><i>DAILY NEWS.</i>—“Ought to be a classic in every library afloat or ashore.”</p> + +<p class='mth hang'><b>BRITAIN’S NAVAL POWER: A Short History of the Growth of the +British Navy.</b> Part I.—<span class="smcap">From the Earliest Times to Trafalgar.</span> Part II.—<span class="smcap">From +Trafalgar to the Present Time.</span> By <span class="smcap">Hamilton Williams</span>, M.A., +Instructor in English Literature to Naval Cadets on H.M.S. <i>Britannia</i>. Crown 8vo. +4s. 6d. net.</p> + +<div class='signature'> +<p class='right'> + [<i>Britannia Series.</i> +</p> +</div> + +<p class='mtq'><i>TIMES.</i>—“The facts are full of interest, many of them are very imperfectly known, +even to those whose acquaintance with other and more stirring periods of naval history is +considerable, and they are presented by Mr. Williams in a form both attractive and +instructive.”</p> + +<p><i>SPECTATOR.</i>—“It is an excellent little work, and seems to include every naval +event of importance during the period named. Considering the space at the author’s +command, we think it wonderful how much he has managed to get in.”</p> + +<p class='center mt1 fs120 sans'><i>MR. KIPLING AND THE NAVY.</i></p> + +<p class='center mth'><i>Thirty-fifth Thousand.</i></p> + +<p class='hang mth'><b>A FLEET IN BEING.</b> Notes of Two Trips with the Channel Squadron. +By <span class="smcap">Rudyard Kipling</span>. Crown 8vo, sewed, 1s. net; Cloth, 1s. 6d. net.</p> + +<p class='mtq'><i>ARMY AND NAVY GAZETTE.</i>—“A very admirable picture of the life of +officers and men who go down to the sea in the ships of Her Majesty’s fleet.”</p> + +<p><i>ARMY AND NAVY ILLUSTRATED.</i>—“A little book to be read far and wide.”</p> + +<p class='center fs120 mth'><span class="smcap">MACMILLAN AND CO., Ltd., LONDON.</span></p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_352">[352]</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak"> + MACMILLAN AND CO.’S MILITARY WORKS. + </h2> +</div> + +<p class='hang mt1'><b>FORTY-ONE YEARS IN INDIA FROM SUBALTERN TO COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF.</b> +By Field-Marshal <span class="smcap">Lord Roberts</span> of Kandahar, V.C., +K.P., G.C.B., G.C.S.I., G.C.I.E. New Edition in One Vol. With Forty-four +Illustrations. Extra Crown 8vo. 10s. net.</p> + +<p class='mtq'><i>TIMES.</i>—“A vivid and simple narrative of things actually seen by a fighting man +who, during forty-one years of Indian service, saw more hard fighting than almost any +other Englishman of our time. It also records the experience of a military administrator +who has conducted historical campaigns and been the presiding genius in the reorganisation +of a great Army. But to the general reader, perhaps, its chief charm will be glimpses +which it gives, with a certain Cervantes-like <i>naïveté</i>, of the personality of the author. +A hundred unconscious touches, in the camp, on the battlefield, and at the council-table, +reveal to us the veritable hero of the British private, and the fearless leader of +men whom every native soldier would follow to the death.”</p> + +<p class='mth hang'><b>A HISTORY OF THE INDIAN MUTINY AND OF THE DISTURBANCES +WHICH ACCOMPANIED IT AMONG THE CIVIL POPULATION.</b> +By <span class="smcap">T. Rice Holmes</span>. Fifth Edition, Revised throughout and slightly +Enlarged. With Five Maps and Six Plans. Extra Crown 8vo. 12s. 6d.</p> + +<p class='mtq'><i>ATHENÆUM.</i>—“May be accepted without scruple as a standard authority.... +Is worthy of a warm welcome. It is convenient in form, and the maps and plans are +excellent.”</p> + +<p class='mth hang'><b>A HISTORY OF THE BRITISH ARMY.</b> By Hon. <span class="smcap">J. W. Fortescue</span>. +In Two Vols. 8vo.</p> + +<div class='signature'> +<p class="right"> + [<i>Immediately.</i> +</p> +</div> + +<p class='hang mth'><b>A HISTORY OF THE 17th LANCERS (Duke of Cambridge’s Own).</b> +By Hon. <span class="smcap">J. W. Fortescue</span>. Illustrated. Royal 8vo. 25s. net.</p> + +<p class='mt1 sans fs120 center'><i>ENGLAND IN EGYPT.</i></p> + +<p class='mth hang'><b>THE EGYPTIAN SOUDAN: ITS LOSS AND RECOVERY.</b> By <span class="smcap">Henry +S. L. Alford</span>, Lieutenant Royal Scots Fusiliers, and <span class="smcap">W. D. Sword</span>, Lieutenant +North Stafford Regiment. With numerous Illustrations, Portraits, and Maps. +8vo. 10s. net.</p> + +<p class="center mtq"> +⁂ The Narrative includes the BATTLE OF OMDURMAN and the</p> +<p class='center'>FALL OF KHARTOUM.</p> + +<p class='mtq'><i>DAILY TELEGRAPH.</i>—“A plain, soldierly narrative which practically covers the +whole recent history of the Soudan, and, as such, will doubtless meet with appreciative +readers.”</p> + +<p class='mth hang'><b>THE CAMPAIGN IN TIRAH, 1897-1898.</b>—An Account of the Expedition +against the Orakzais and Afridis under General Sir <span class="smcap">William Lockhart</span>, G.C.B., +K.C.S.I. Based (by permission) on Letters contributed to the <i>Times</i> by Colonel +<span class="smcap">H. D. Hutchinson</span>, Director of Military Education in India. With Maps, Plans, +and Illustrations. Demy 8vo. 8s. 6d. net.</p> + +<p class='mtq'><i>NAVY AND ARMY.</i>—“A book of singular interest, and of much practical value.... +Of the actual fighting, Colonel Hutchinson writes brilliantly. His letters to the +<i>Times</i> were the best sent regularly from the seat of war, and they are embodied in the +volume with many additions and links.... Thoroughly good reading.... Emphatically +a book to be read.”</p> + +<p class='mt1 fs120 center'><span class="smcap">MACMILLAN AND CO., Ltd., LONDON.</span></p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="transnote"> + <h2 class="nobreak" id="Transcribers_Notes"> + Transcriber’s Notes + </h2> +</div> + +<ul> +<li>Images relocated close to related content.</li> +<li>Sidenotes relocated close to related content.</li> +<li>The original has a sidenote at the start of every page to indicate + the current year and sometimes a reminder of the current location. + Where the year and location are clear from the text and previous + sidenotes, these page-top notes have been omitted.</li> +<li>Footnotes have been renumbered consecutively and relocated close + to related content.</li> +<li>Punctuation and other obvious typographic inaccuracies were + silently corrected.</li> +<li>Archaic and variable spelling has been preserved.</li> +<li>Variations in hyphenation and compound words have been preserved.</li> +<li>The index that appears in volume III has been replicated into + volumes I and II. Only those page numbers pertaining to this volume + have been linked. +</li> +</ul> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76810 ***</div> +</body> +</html> + diff --git a/76810-h/images/cover-t.jpg b/76810-h/images/cover-t.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..52e75ec --- /dev/null +++ b/76810-h/images/cover-t.jpg diff --git a/76810-h/images/cover.jpg b/76810-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..88d261e --- /dev/null +++ b/76810-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/76810-h/images/i_003.jpg b/76810-h/images/i_003.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..853c806 --- /dev/null +++ b/76810-h/images/i_003.jpg diff --git a/76810-h/images/i_005-t.jpg b/76810-h/images/i_005-t.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f822d5a --- /dev/null +++ b/76810-h/images/i_005-t.jpg diff --git a/76810-h/images/i_005.jpg b/76810-h/images/i_005.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 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