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diff --git a/76808-0.txt b/76808-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ba12d7d --- /dev/null +++ b/76808-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,13941 @@ + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76808 *** + + + + + +A SAILOR’S LIFE + + + + +[Illustration: MacMillan and Co. Printer’s Mark.] + + + + +[Illustration: _“There was life in the ‘small thing.’”_] + + + + + A SAILOR’S LIFE + UNDER + FOUR SOVEREIGNS + + BY + ADMIRAL OF THE FLEET + THE HON. SIR HENRY KEPPEL + G.C.B., D.C.L. + + VOL. I. + + London + MACMILLAN AND CO., LIMITED + NEW YORK: THE MACMILLAN COMPANY + 1899 + + _All rights reserved_ + + + + +CONTENTS + + + CHAPTER I PAGE + 1809-1822 1 + + CHAPTER II + The _Tweed_, 1824 26 + + CHAPTER III + The _Tweed_ 46 + + CHAPTER IV + The _Tweed_ 55 + + CHAPTER V + The _Tweed_ 66 + + CHAPTER VI + England 92 + + CHAPTER VII + The _Galatea_ 101 + + CHAPTER VIII + The _Magicienne_ 119 + + CHAPTER IX + The _Magicienne_ 127 + + CHAPTER X + The _Magicienne_ 147 + + CHAPTER XI + The _Magicienne_ 153 + + CHAPTER XII + England 160 + + CHAPTER XIII + The _Childers_ Brig 165 + + CHAPTER XIV + The _Childers_ Brig 174 + + CHAPTER XV + The Carlist Question 184 + + CHAPTER XVI + The Carlist War 192 + + CHAPTER XVII + The _Childers_ Brig 198 + + CHAPTER XVIII + The _Childers_--West Coast of Africa 202 + + CHAPTER XIX + Cape Coast Castle 217 + + CHAPTER XX + The _Childers_ Brig 226 + + CHAPTER XXI + A Rendezvous of Cruisers 231 + + CHAPTER XXII + England 246 + + CHAPTER XXIII + Shore Time 251 + + CHAPTER XXIV + _Dido_ Corvette 255 + + CHAPTER XXV + _Dido_--China 269 + + CHAPTER XXVI + _Dido_--China 277 + + CHAPTER XXVII + _Dido_--Straits of Malacca 282 + + CHAPTER XXVIII + _Dido_--Borneo 292 + + CHAPTER XXIX + _Dido_--Borneo 311 + + CHAPTER XXX + _Dido_--China 322 + + CHAPTER XXXI + _Dido_--Calcutta 331 + + INDEX + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + + SUBJECT ARTIST PAGE + “There was life in the ‘small _J. W. Houghton_ Frontispiece + thing’” + A Successful Operation ” ” 3 + Pio Mingo _E. Caldwell_ 6 + Sir Francis Burdett _From an engraving_ 8 + Sir Francis Burdett’s Carriage _J. W. Houghton_ 9 + A Compliment to Sir Francis ” ” 10 + Nelson’s Chair ” ” 15 + Royal Naval College ” ” 18 + The Attack ” ” 21 + The Defence ” ” 23 + During the Examination ” ” 24 + Meeting the Captain ” ” 27 + Ship Mates ” ” 31 + Consolation ” ” 35 + Meet Lord Cochrane ” ” 37 + Arrested ” ” 50 + Vera Cruz _Anon._ 62 + Holkham _W. H. Margetson_ 67 + View from Réduit _Lady Colville_ 78 + A Colossal Tortoise _J. W. Houghton_ 80 + Sir Lowry Cole _Nina Daly_ 82 + The Device of Jonas Coaker _Fred. T. Jane_ 83 + “Keppel’s Folly” _E. Caldwell_ 89 + Napoleon’s Grave _Anon._ 90 + At St. Margaret’s _J. W. Houghton_ 95 + Nearly Frozen ” ” 99 + The Poole Packet _Fred. T. Jane_ 106 + The Dignity Ball _J. W. Houghton_ 111 + Crossing Tampico Bar _Fred. T. Jane_ 117 + An Elephant in Chase _E. Caldwell_ 131 + A Royal Salute _Fred. T. Jane_ 138 + Elephants with Young at Foot, _E. Caldwell_ 142 + Moowar Valley + Blue-jackets in Chase ” 144 + Returning from the Funeral ” 151 + _Magicienne_ at Calcutta _Fred. T. Jane_ 154 + West African Natives _Anon._ 206 + A Factory _Anon._ 213 + A Slaver _Anon._ 227 + Hong Kong _Anon._ 265 + _Dido_ at Chusan R. B. Watson 267 + Map of Malacca Straits and Singapore 286 + Rajah Brooke _Nina Daly_ 289 + Map--Eastern Archipelago 292 + Map of Coast--Borneo 293 + _Dido_ at Sarawak _Anon._ 303 + A River Scene _From photo by Dr. Johnstone_ 320 + + + + +A Sailor’s Life under Four Sovereigns + + + + +CHAPTER I + +1809-1822 + + +[Sidenote: 1809. June 14.] + +The baptismal certificate announces my birth at Earl’s Court, +Kensington, on June 14, 1809. + +It was only in 1820 I learnt from my sister, Mary, that three weeks +after birth I was deposited in my father’s footpan to be interred in +a garden at the back of the house, not being entitled to a berth in +consecrated ground. + +That mattered little, as before the final screwing down the old nurse +discovered there was life in the “small thing.” + +I was christened at Kensington. Henry, Lord Holland, became responsible +for my sins, a similar kind act having been conferred by Charles James +Fox upon my elder brother; after which I was removed to join the others +at Quidenham. + +[Sidenote: 1815.] + +Later on I recollect the nurse trying to frighten us by saying “Boney +was coming,” and how glad we children were when we heard of the defeat +of that hero at Waterloo; accomplished, as I then believed, by my +brother George, an Ensign in the 14th Foot! + +[Sidenote: 1817.] + +My dear mother died at Holkham in 1817. + +[Sidenote: 1818.] + +[Illustration] + +At the beginning of 1818 my younger brother Tom and I were sent to +a school at Needham Market, kept by the Rev. James Wood, a short, +muscular man, wearing knee-breeches and powdered hair. A nice wife +and children; the latter played with us smaller boys. His brother, a +merchant at Lisbon, used to send cases of oranges, which were stowed +in the upper shelf of a large cupboard. When in the humour, the master +chucked them to us from a ladder singly, giving lessons in catching. + +From Portugal we had two schoolfellows, Francisco Nunes Sweezer Vizeu +and Alvaro Lopes Pereira. They were kind to me, the smallest boy, and I +have never forgotten them. + +While there, a young man named Long, who was training for Holy Orders, +came occasionally to read with Mr. Wood. He gave me a brass gun mounted +on wheels, and a promise of sixpence if I would fire it off during +school-time. + +At my end of the table I arranged, with books, a screened battery, +with the rear open; and then, under pretence of drying my slate at the +fire, heated a wire, which was applied according to instructions. The +explosion was loud; books flew in all directions; the gun bounded over +my head and lost itself behind a row of books, where it remained until +next half. + +[Illustration: _A Successful Operation._] + +The master tore open his waistcoat to ascertain where he was shot, and +then seized his cane; for some minutes I dodged under the table and +over the stools, but caught it at last. I was unable to sit, and so +went to bed. + +My father had in his possession a letter from the Rev. James Wood, +stating that I had fired a gun at him, and that “Mr. Thomas” had thrown +a slate at his head divested of its frame! + +The following half, as the warm weather approached, I succeeded in +finding where the master kept his hair-powder, and with it mixed some +finely pounded sugar. On coming into school, the flies soon found +him, and as he got warm his head became black instead of white. This +little game exceeded my expectations, as, irritated beyond endurance, +he dismissed us from school. Among our playfellows was a Norfolk +neighbour, Edward Gurdon, who sang well and tried to teach me! + +[Sidenote: 1819.] + +Our sister Sophia, who married Sir James Macdonald, lived not far +from Needham. They drove over to take us to the launch of a ship at +Aldborough. On the return journey, I in the gig, driven by the coachman +following the phaeton, ran foul of a fish-cart, and broke the shaft. I +was pitched on to the back of the horse, slipped down the trace, and +found my way to the phaeton. The coachman had been taking his tea too +strong. + +At the back of the schoolhouse was a gable-end, up which a pear-tree +had long before been trained. The trunk stood some six feet from the +wall; a pathway which led to the stables ran parallel, on the outer +side of which were pointed rails. On top of these, thin planks placed +edgeways, up which jasmine was trained. + +One afternoon a ball with which we had been playing lodged in the +upper part of the gable-end. I succeeded in reaching the ball, when +the branch gave way, and I descended with it in one hand and the ball +in the other; the only things that partially checked my fall were +the planks. I came down impaled on the spiked rails! A messenger was +despatched to Quidenham; but there were plenty of us: nobody came. + +We looked forward to our Christmas holidays. My father kept a pack of +beagles, much to our delight as well as that of our neighbours, the +Surtees and Partridges, both large families and sporting, who, with +many others, made our meets very cheery. + +Hares there were in plenty. We boys had clever ponies. Mine, Pio Mingo, +was peculiar-looking--white, with black spots, bushy mane and tail; +showed a good deal of the white of her eye. The like of her might have +been found at Astley’s. Both ponies were undeniably clever at finding +their way across ditches and through fences, and generally much nearer +the hounds than pleased old Capes, the huntsman. Most of the hounds, +while running, preferred the furrows to the open plough, as did Mingo, +much to the grief of poor little Dancer, Rattler, and others. + +But Mingo’s great dislike was a hat, which my elder brothers knew only +too well. One Friday morning, after a continued frost, horses and +hounds were brought out for an airing, and paraded in front of the +house. Fancying that I knew the whereabouts of my brothers, I mounted +Mingo in the stable, and was sneaking along so as to get near the +protection of led horses. + +At that moment, through a villa garden gate, appeared my Waterloo +brother. He took off his hat as if to give Mingo a feed of corn. I +gripped both mane and crupper, but the rattle of the whip inside the +hat was too much. Instead of a somersault in the air, my left foot +caught in the stirrup. + +[Illustration: _Pio Mingo._] + +Away dashed Mingo, in among the horses, with me in tow. Inside the +house old Henley pulled down the window-blinds, that my sisters might +not see the expected end. The confusion was great; led horses got +loose. I was eventually picked up senseless on a heap of straw and +pheasant food under a tree. There was the deep cut of a horse’s tooth +across the seat of the saddle--a saddle which had been given my brother +George by the Princess Charlotte, and on which we boys had learned to +ride. + +On the Monday following I was again in the saddle, with a stiffish leg +and a few bruises, but none the worse. + +Most Norfolk butlers took pride in their breed of game-fowl, and old +Henley considered his second to none. The best cocks went periodically +to Newmarket, their performances watched with interest only inferior +to that of the race-horses. Carrier-pigeons, too, he bred. On one +occasion the birds, hatched from eggs brought from Newmarket, found +their way back as soon as able to fly--not more curious than a dog +carried in a hamper from Sussex to Scotland finding its way back to +Goodwood in a couple of days! + +Kenninghall Fair was an event for us children. Admiral Lukin, from +Felbrig Hall, visited Quidenham at that time. He played the flute. +The march across the park with drums and fifes was imposing. Not far +from Felbrig we had another home at Lexham Hall, belonging to the +Walpole-Keppels. The whole county appeared to work together except at +election time, when Wodehouse opposed Coke. + +[Sidenote: 1820.] + +About this time my brother Tom and I were summoned to our father’s +dressing-room, when he informed us that it was time we selected a +profession. We both decided for the Navy. Father thought we should have +separate professions. As we disagreed, I hit Tom in the eye, which he, +being biggest, returned with interest. When we had had enough, father +decided we should both be sailors. + +Similar politics, somewhat Radical, had years ago brought the families +of Coke and Keppel together, and we looked forward with pleasure to +our periodical visits to Holkham. Mr. Coke had four daughters. The +eldest died before my time; three had married peers--Andover, Rosebery, +and Anson. Lady Andover, who was early a widow, married secondly, +the good-looking and distinguished Captain Digby, who commanded the +_Africa_ at Trafalgar. Lady Anson had two handsome sons; one we called +Tom, who afterwards became Lord Lichfield. He was descended from Lord +Anson who commanded the _Centurion_ and sailed round the world. On +board was Augustus Keppel, a midshipman, afterwards Lord Keppel. + +[Sidenote: George IV.] + +[Illustration: _Sir Francis Burdett._] + +There was a younger son, William, in the Navy, whom I met later. Eliza +Anson became Lady Waterpark, and her sister Frederica married the Earl +of Wemyss and March. Mr. Coke had a younger daughter, Elizabeth; she +likewise was charming, and managed the domestic part of the house. In +1822 she married Mr. Spencer Stanhope. + +[Sidenote: 1821. July 13.] + +Among Mr. Coke’s intimate friends was Sir Francis Burdett; in fact, +Holkham was the centre of the leading Whigs of the day. Sir Francis had +been liberated from prison, where he had been confined for exciting a +mob, as well as for writing a pamphlet on the trial of Queen Caroline, +on the strength of which a party assembled to meet him at Holkham. + +After a sojourn there it was arranged that the party should adjourn to +Quidenham. There was great excitement throughout the country about the +trial. + +Being short I was told off to go with Sir Francis, so as not to +obstruct the view of the hero. The travelling carriages of those days +were light; no box or driving-seat, splashboard only, the body hung on +C-springs; four horses and postboys. + +[Illustration: _Sir Francis Burdett’s Carriage._] + +At Fakenham the populace were prepared; horses were taken off, and Sir +Francis was, much to my delight, drawn through the river. The same fun +was repeated at Dereham, where we met the Duke of Sussex, changing four +posters at the King’s Arms, His Royal Highness likewise on his way to +Quidenham. We also stopped for refreshments. Outside the inn was great +cheering, and cries for “the Queen and her rights.” + +After a short stay at Quidenham the party broke up, and I saw Sir +Francis start on a ride to London, calling at Euston, a journey of +nearly a hundred miles. + +[Illustration: _A Compliment to Sir Francis._] + +I was much with H.R.H. the Duke of Sussex, going from one country-house +to another in his travelling coach, which held an enormous amount of +luggage. Both footmen were armed; it was no uncommon thing for luggage +to be cut from the back of a travelling carriage in the vicinity of +London. Royalty paying no ’pikes, with four post-horses, and boys in +condition, we got rapidly along. + +Newstead Abbey was the object of our journey. It belonged to His Royal +Highness’s equerry, Colonel Wildman, a dapper little Hussar, who had +served through the Peninsular War, and had recently bought the place of +Lord Byron. The workmen were still engaged in restoring the beautiful +Gothic building, on which the Colonel was expending £200,000. The work +was being done with taste and care; none of the traits of its former +owner had been obliterated. Side by side with the arms of Lord Byron +were carved the heraldic device of the Wildman family. Indeed, it was a +source of consolation to Lord Byron that the one spot in England dear +to him had fallen into the hands of his old friend and schoolfellow. + +The famous drinking-cup, which Byron made out of a skull found in the +Abbey cloister, was mounted on a gold stand, with the famous lines +engraved; and, in accordance with the tradition of the house, when a +visitor arrived, a bottle of wine was poured into the skull, which the +guest was expected to empty. + +While we were there, Mr. (afterwards Lord) Brougham arrived from an +election tour. I saw him empty his share of the claret at one draught, +and he was unusually pleasant afterwards. His younger brother, father +of the present Lord, was staying in the house at the time. + +On returning to Holkham, I found the school-room was nearly full. +Not that we boys were always admitted. There were Miss Digby--so +beautiful!--and two Ansons--such dear and pretty children! Admiral +Digby had two sons; Edward was of the same age as myself, and we +established a friendship which lasted his life. He had a younger +brother, Kenelm, likewise a good fellow, thinking of the Church. + +It is not my intention to attempt the biographies of many of the fine +fellows whose path I crossed, but since I commenced these souvenirs I +have had the opportunity of inspecting letters that might never have +seen daylight had I not inquired of Lord Digby, son of my lamented +friend, the number of guns his grandfather’s ship carried at Trafalgar. +The search produced the original letter, written by then Captain Digby +to his uncle, Admiral Hon. R. Digby, of Minterne, Dorset: + + [COPY] + + “‘AFRICA,’ AT SEA, OFF THE STRAITS, + _November 1, 1805_. + + MY DEAR UNCLE, + + I write merely to say I am well, after having been closely + engaged for six hours on the 21st of October. For details, + being busy to the greatest degree, I have lost all my masts + in consequence of the action, and my ship is otherwise cut to + pieces, but sound in bottom. My killed and wounded 63, and many + of the latter I shall lose if I do not get into port. Out of so + many great prizes, it has pleased God that the elements should + destroy most, perhaps to lessen the vanity of man after so + great a victory. + + I will give you a rough sketch of the lines going into action; + more minute it shall be hereafter. + + I beg my love to Mrs. Digby, and remain, + + Your affectionate nephew, + (Signed) H. DIGBY. + + [Illustration: FRENCH LINE ON LARBOARD TACK.] + +(To which was added the following postscript): + + I really have no time to say more, surrounded as I am by the + wounded men in my cabin, and in all sorts of employ, completing + jury masts, etc., etc., and I will thank you to say so to Dr. + Shiff and my brothers and sisters. + + The _Africa_ was, with many others, dispersed by variable + winds, and perceiving the French signals during the night, I + took a station at discretion, and was the means of being early + in action the next day, engaging the van as I ran along to join + the English Lines. + + After passing through the line, in which position I brought + down the foremast of the _Santissima Trinidada_, mounting 140 + guns; after which I engaged, within pistol-shot, _L’Intrépide_, + 74, which afterwards struck and was burnt, _Orion_ and + _Conqueror_ coming up. + + A little boy that stayed with me is safe. Twice on the poop + was I left alone, all being killed or wounded. I am very deaf, + with a sad pressure over my breast.” + +I have not space to describe half the services of the gallant Digby. +In 1796 he was posted into the _Aurora_ frigate, and in less than two +years had captured six French privateers, one lettre de marque, and +one corvette, _L’Égalité_, making a total of 124 guns and 744 men, +besides forty-eight merchant ships taken or sunk. In command of the +_Leviathan_, with Commodore Duckworth, he assisted in the capture of +the island of Minorca. In command of the _Alcmene_, he captured two +French men-of-war, _Le Dépit_, 3 guns, and _La Courageuse_, 30 guns +and 270 men; also on October 17, 1799, two Spanish frigates, _Thetis_ +and _Brigide_, each of 32 guns and 300 men. They contained 3,000,000 +dollars, and it took fifty military waggons to convey the specie from +Plymouth Dock to the citadel. His prize-money, as stated by himself, +amounted to £57,300 before he was thirty years of age, with £6300 more +before he was thirty-six. + +I read that in the beginning of 1818 the following Whigs dined together +in compliment to Mr. Coke, at Wyndham, near Quidenham: The Rev. R. +Coleman, in the chair; Bathurst, Bishop of Norwich, Lord Albemarle, Sir +Francis Burdett, Mr. R. Hammond, Lord Cochrane, Sir Thomas Beevor, Mr. +Gurney, Sir Jacob Astley, Mr. Lerwlie, and Admiral Lukin, at that date +rather Liberal. + +A tutor from Wells was found to coach me for the Royal Naval College. +One morning, after breakfast, Mr. Coke told me to join him in his +study, directing me to sit on a certain chair, he at his desk. After +a while he called me, and said: “Now I will tell you why I put you in +that chair. Young Nelson sat there on an occasion when he came to make +his declaration for half-pay as Commander.” Nelson’s home was with +his father, the clergyman at Burnham Thorpe, about three miles from +Holkham. Mr. Coke likewise introduced young Hoste (a neighbour) to +Nelson.[1] At Holkham now there is a bedroom called “Nelson’s.” + +[1] Afterwards Admiral Sir William Hoste. + +[Illustration: _Nelson’s Chair._] + +[Sidenote: 1822.] + +Early in 1822 I was sent to my relative, William Garnier, Prebendary +of Winchester Cathedral, whose home was in the Close; but it was his +brother, the Dean, better known to us as “Uncle Tom,” to whom I was +consigned. He had a son, George, who was already at the Royal Naval +College. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 8.] + +It was on February 8 that I started with Uncle Tom in the Prebendary’s +family coach, drawn by four fat greys, coachman on box, boy on near +leader, pace about five miles per hour, for Gosport. On arrival I saw, +for the first time, among other vessels, three full-rigged ships of the +line, whose trucks reached at least 220 feet above the water-line. As +yet I had seen nothing larger than a collier brig alongside Wells Pier. + +Uncle Tom took me in a wherry across the harbour to the dockyard, +and so to the Royal Naval College, where I soon found myself in the +presence of the Governor, Captain Loring, a warrior in uniform; as +imposing to me as the leviathans I had just seen. Professor Inman was +there--a tall man in black, with an austere countenance; but there was +that in him that I liked. How I got through the examination I forget, +but that day found me an officer in the service of King George IV. + +Captain John Wentworth Loring was the son of Joshua Loring, who held +a staff appointment at Boston. At the end of the war he settled in +Berkshire. His son, born in 1785, entered the navy as midshipman on +board the _Salisbury_ in 1819. While Loring was serving in the West +Indies in command of the _Lark_ sloop, she capsized in a hurricane. +They cleverly saved themselves by cutting away masts and rigging, +and, being well battened down, the vessel righted. She was towed into +port at San Domingo to refit. Loring gained so much credit for the +expeditious manner in which he performed this duty that the Admiral, +Lord Hugh Seymour, appointed him Acting Captain of the _Syren_, 32-gun +frigate, which had lately come out from Bantry Bay in a thoroughly +demoralised and mutinous state! + +While cruising off Cape François the crew refused to work, and a plan +got wind of their intention to secure their new Captain and officers, +and join the pirates, who were then to be found in most parts of the +West Indies. Loring, with his officers, took possession of the after +part of the ship; the wind being in the right direction, they steered +for port. They were three days without change of raiment. On joining +the Commander-in-Chief, Sir John Duckworth, who had succeeded Lord Hugh +Seymour, the mutineers were tried by court-martial, and six of them +hanged at the foreyard arm. Through the intercession of Loring, one of +them escaped capital punishment. + +[Illustration: _Royal Naval College._] + +On November 4, 1819, Captain Loring was appointed Governor of the +Royal Naval College. He was for forty-four years on the active list, +and of that time only four unemployed. In July he was made K.C.B., +having previously been knighted by King William IV. His uniform was: +blue coat, open in front, gold epaulettes, white kerseymere waistcoat, +pantaloons to match, with Hessian boots, straight, thin sword, and +cocked hat. + +Rouse was the Senior Lieutenant. This gallant old officer lost his leg +in the attack upon Prota in February, 1807, when serving under Sir John +Thomas Duckworth, and in consequence of his wound was promoted to the +rank of Lieutenant. When the wooden leg broke, he was allowed to draw +another from the dockyard joiner’s shop. + +Malone, the Second Lieutenant, was a good-natured Irishman, and kind +to me because his wife was a Norfolk woman. There were two artillery +drill-sergeants and three first-rate warrant officers, a gunner, +boatswain, and carpenter, who took us round the yard in batches out of +school hours, and of whom some of us learned more than we did inside. +They illustrated in the dockyard what we had found difficult, with no +object to refer to. + +There were two fine twelve-oared cutters, which the lieutenants +managed. We learned to pull as well as to steer under sail. We had, in +addition to school, French, drawing, and dancing masters, also fencing. +The French master was, I believe, an _émigré_, a Marquis de la Fort; +but of all, I think we liked Schetkey, the drawing-master, best. + +Two old women used to bring baskets of grub--tarts, fruit, etc. Towards +the end of the half they gave “tick” to those whom they knew would +return. + +Under the care of my good-natured kinsman, George Garnier, I got on +very well. He, however, left the end of the half, and joined the +_Delight_ brig, in which he afterwards sailed from the Cape of Good +Hope, and was never again heard of. + +[Sidenote: 1823.] + +Our uniform was a blue tail-coat, stand-up collar, plain raised gilt +buttons, round hat, gold-lace loop with cockade, and shoes. We cadets +had each a cabin about seven feet square, with a window, except the +corner ones, which at the monthly changes were occupied by those who +had been oftenest on the black-list, and did not require daylight. + +There was an occasional launch from the dockyard; one of them was +the _Tweed_, of 28 guns, a new form not much thought of, and called +donkey-frigates. Subsequently she was christened by Miss Loring, and to +this vessel I was appointed on leaving the College. + +We had a nice set of fellows. Some of them sons of distinguished +officers, among them Suckling, Pasco, Hallowell, Blackwood. On muster +or parade we were in subdivisions or companies; the best-behaved had +charge each of one of these, and wore a midshipman’s white patch +instead of a bit of braid on the collar. + +The boy I looked up to was William Edmonston; he was clever, and passed +out with a first mathematical prize medal (before completing his two +years) as a midshipman in the _Sybille_, 42, Captain S. Pechell. He +was wounded in the face in a boat action against pirates near Candia. +Edmonston had the best sort of courage--brave without being rash. He +got into Parliament, but I, having been kept at sea, got ahead of him. + +George King entered the College the same day as myself, and we kept +working together, although in different ships, for many years. + +We cadets were not allowed outside the dockyard; the stage-coaches that +took us away were obliged to come inside the gates. We were but boys, +and provided ourselves with such missiles for mischief as we could +find in the yard--iron ringbolts, for example, which were dangerous if +thrown with precision. + +Before the half was up, we drew lots for the much-coveted box-seat; +that on His Majesty’s mail on one occasion fell to me. There were +several night-coaches, but the “Nelson,” the only “six inside heavy,” +was the favourite. It carried thirteen passengers, and stopped to +refresh at Liphook. The food was bespoke a week before: in winter +beefsteaks, onions, and plum-pudding, but in summer a goose, ducks and +green peas, with onions to any extent. It often happened that the +coach left a passenger or two asleep on the rug. + +[Illustration: _The Attack._] + +Outside the gates there was no difficulty in obtaining pea-shooters and +other small means of annoyance. On the night when I had the box-seat, +the Royal Mail picked up and dropped boys as we came, so that it was +midnight before we reached Godalming. The postmaster having turned +in, the Mail pulled up as usual under his bedroom windows. The moment +they were opened, the postmaster and his wife were assailed with +pea-shooters and other missiles. The guard was saying “All right,” when +the postmistress, calling “There is something else,” emptied the slops +on the boys as the Mail drove off; I, having the box-seat, escaped the +odoriferous bath. + +[Illustration: _The Defence._] + +That gallant officer, Sir William Hoste, who commanded the _Albion_, +one of the harbour guard-ships, used to visit us during play-hours and +tip the Norfolk boys with a half-guinea each, although himself a poor +man. We were proud at being noticed by the gallant Hoste, who commanded +at the finest frigate action off Lissa, with such men as James Gordon +Phipps Hornby, Whitby, and others with whom I subsequently became +intimately acquainted. There was also a young fellow, Lieutenant the +Hon. William Anson, belonging to the _Tribune_, 42-gun frigate, who +used to come and see me and chat about Holkham. Adjoining the Naval +College was the house of the President-Commissioner, Captain Hon. Sir +George Grey, brother of the Premier. + +His nephew George and I became great friends: he joined the service, +but not through the College. + +While at the College we had repeated visits from those who had +previously left, and who put us up to the orgies that went on in the +hulks alongside the ships to which they belonged. I did not fail to +remember this when my turn came. + +My brother Tom joined on December 5, so that when we returned in +January, 1824, from the Christmas holidays, we had only been two months +together. + +Among the friends I made at College were Hallowell, Suckling, Francis +Blackwood, all more or less connected with Nelson. + +[Sidenote: 1824.] + +I went up with others for examination, but failed to get full numbers +on account of having in my possession a penny handkerchief, given me +by one of my late playfellows, on which was printed an outline of a +map of the coast of England. Now, the geographical master, who was +short-sighted, always read with his nose close to the paper. Through a +sheet of foolscap he had pierced a hole with a pin, and before I could +blow my nose he was down on me like a hawk. The consequence was that +on February 7, 1824, I was appointed to His Majesty’s ship _Tweed_, +Captain F. Hunn, half-brother to Mr. Canning, with one year ten months +two weeks and two days’ time, instead of two complete years of service. + +[Illustration: _During the Examination._] + +Uncle Tom Garnier kindly undertook to give directions for my outfit, +and for a while my valuable services were dispensed with. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +THE _TWEED_, 1824 + + +[Sidenote: 1824. Feb.] + +Having paid many parting visits, I returned to Portsmouth, and, +dismounting from the “Regulator” coach, went straight to the +outfitters’ and was soon in uniform. What I thought most of was a +small dirk suspended from my waist. Having viewed myself in various +positions, I sallied forth. + +From mids who revisited the College I learnt the sort of fun that went +on in the refitting hulks. I was not so green as I looked. Instead of +reporting myself on board the _Topaze_, I ascertained that Captain Hunn +lived with wife and family at No. 15 Jubilee Terrace, Southsea. The +time being that when he would be going to dinner, although dusk, I took +up a position on the south side of the sallyport bridge. + +Presently I saw a blue boat-cloak, surmounted by a gold-laced cocked +hat, and a sword protruding. I stepped on one side and saluted. + +“Who are you, youngster? and what’s your name?” + +I soon squeaked out that I belonged to His Majesty’s ship _Tweed_, just +returned from leave, and was going to report myself. Name Keppel. + +“Come along with me.” + +I was shortly ushered out of the cold into the presence of Mrs. Hunn +and two charming young ladies in a warm drawing-room, and dinner ready. +Never was such good fortune! Never was I so hungry! + +[Illustration: _Meeting the Captain._] + +The coxswain was sent for my clothes, a bed made up on the sofa. The +next day I was installed “gig’s midshipman.” Rather a good beginning, +which I fully appreciated. + +I did not trouble myself about the fitting out. Just before starting +we were supplied with a proportion of smugglers, whose penalty for +defrauding His Majesty was to serve before the mast on board a +man-of-war. They were equal to our best seamen. + +We sailed from Portsmouth on April 12, Mrs. Hunn and my playfellows +with us. We saluted the flag of our Commander-in-Chief, Admiral Sir +James Hawkins Whitshed, and anchored at Spithead, which we left on +18th, anchoring successively at Cowes, Yarmouth Roads, and Plymouth +Sound, saluting the flag of the Hon. A. J. Cochrane. + +Among the frequent anchorings and departures I learnt some of the +various duties expected of officers of my particular rank. One of these +was to hold a dip in the tier while the great hempen cable attached to +the anchor was being hove in, and stowed by quartermasters below the +reach of daylight. It was a neat piece of seamanship, on which the best +and the least experienced of petty officers were employed. The tier +was a large oblong space. The end of the working cable was secured in +the bottom of the ship, frequently round the heel of the mainmast. To +heave in the cable with anchor attached required a “messenger” without +an end. This was a small cable of proper proportions passed round the +capstan and forebits, so that one side ran parallel to the cable, to +which it was secured by nippers that held it until near the hatchway +above the cable tier. + +As the nippers were taken off, boys were stationed to carry them +forward to be reapplied; the capstan bars were manned by marines and +seamen not stationed aloft. We youngsters had to hold the dips to +enable the petty officers to see that each bend was closely packed, +the centre, where they worked, being clear. The coil in the tier not +exceeding three or four feet, according to size and space, we had to +jump smartly with our dips on the words, “Side out for a bend.” The +expression was used long after chain cables were introduced. “Purser’s +dip” was a strip of cotton soaked in tallow until it grew into a young +candle. + +Bumboats were the delight of us youngsters. If one wanted to enjoy a +pot of clotted cream, the best way was to carry it aloft, taking a foot +of pigtail to propitiate the captain of the top. + +[Sidenote: May 2.] + +We left Plymouth on May 2, and following day came to in Carrick Roads +at Falmouth. Mails to most parts of the world were carried from here +in men-of-war, chiefly brigs, commanded by senior lieutenants, and a +few by distinguished old warrant officers. + +There were thirty-six of these vessels, some with high-sounding names, +such as _Prince Regent_, _Duke of Marlborough_ as well as of _York_, +two _Dukes of Kent_, _Ladies Wellington_, _Queensberry_, _Mary Pelham_, +etc. They were all in first-rate order. + +In the important town of Falmouth the Commanders had a society +peculiarly their own, ladies taking precedence according to the +seniority of their husbands on the Navy List--luckily, not that of the +names of the ships their husbands commanded. _Of course, there was no +quarrelling among the grass-widows._ We were here four days. + +[Sidenote: May 10.] + +Arrived in the magnificent Cork Harbour, we saluted the flag +of Rear-Admiral of the White, the Right Hon. Lord Colville, +Commander-in-Chief of His Majesty’s ships in Ireland. There was a +great deal of smuggling all round the coast, and some of our smartest +cruisers employed. Among the most fortunate was the _Gannet_, 18; she +went by the name of the _“Golden” Gannet_. + +The Admiral was tall and imposing-looking; as gig’s midshipman I had +many opportunities of seeing him. He paid almost daily state visits +from his residence in the Cove of Cork to the dockyard on Haulbowline +Island, dressed in full uniform. He wore his cocked hat athwartships, +gold epaulettes, white pantaloons and Hessian boots. On his stepping +into the state barge, the coxswain, standing up behind him, piped the +time for each solemn stroke of the oars; the yards of the flagship were +manned, while the marines, ranged across the poop, presented arms. The +distance was short, but I thought the ceremony grand. + +_Semiramis_ was an old 42-gun frigate. Being light, and floating high +out of the water, she was painted with two tiers of ports, and had the +appearance of a ship of the line suitable to the flag she had to carry. +No merchant ship trading between Cork or any port would attempt to pass +without lowering her upper sails. + +Before leaving, the _Pylades_, 18, Commander Fead, arrived with +a smuggling lugger, a beautiful vessel with a crew of over fifty +fine-looking men. The Commander-in-Chief while on the station made +nearly £9000 prize-money, his share being one-eighth, after expenses +paid. Mr. Dunsterville had charge of Haulbowline, with a charming wife +and family. A nice boy joined us as mid, deliciously Irish. With them I +made excursions to Cork, and I enjoyed a lunch at the same time at the +mess of the 13th Hussars. + +We sailed from Cork on the 25th, and got into the wide and open sea, +when I saw, for the first time, the horizon of blue water all round. +I now came in contact with those who were my messmates, among them a +number of masters’ mates, whom the Admiralty did not promote, but gave +them the option of serving on.[2] The duties of these elderly gentlemen +were mostly nominal; they were styled mates of the hold or of stores, +etc. They seldom appeared on deck except on Sundays, when they took +their week’s exercise. Their uniform was a blue coat, in shape like our +now plain evening-dress, anchor buttons and a small white cord edging, +white pantaloons, Hessian boots, cocked hat, and sword. + +[2] Navy List of date records 3786 lieutenants in service. + +[Illustration: _Ship Mates._] + +It was considered a compliment to be spoken to by them. I was favoured +by being asked if I had not come to sea to avenge the death of Nelson. +Others were anxious to know if my mother cried when I left home. Down +in the midshipmen’s berth they reigned supreme; spoke very little +before grog-time; then a fork was stuck in the beam, a signal for us +youngsters to scuttle out as fast as we could. + +A servant was told off to look after me. I forgot his name, and asked +one of my aged shipmates; word was passed along the lower deck for +“Cheeks,” the marine. + +There was no place for midshipmen’s stores, except the lockers on which +we sat. Each of us was supposed to bring two table-cloths; one lasted +a week, when the steward--his name Edward Low, but called “Tommie +Plenty”--took possession of it to wipe knives, forks, cups, and spoons. +It smelt before the next was due. We had no candlesticks. Dips obtained +from the purser were stuck in bottles supported by forks fixed where +the planks of the table had shrunk. One morning, when “Tommie” was +holystoning under the table, the point of a fork lifted his scalp. +While he was on the sick-list we youngsters had to do cooking, etc. + +I often confirmed Marryat’s story of the mid running along the +main-deck with a tureen of pea-soup, calling “Scaldings!” to clear the +way. + +One of our old mates had served in a fast-cruising frigate, when, owing +to the number of prizes taken, officers being sent away in charge, the +duties fell heavily on those remaining. Our messmate had to keep watch +and watch. At last his turn came. On taking charge of the prize, the +frigate having made sail, he sent for the petty officer, a gunner in +charge of the prize crew, and told him to steer north-east and call +him in three weeks. + +[Sidenote: June 5.] + +On June 5 we arrived at Madeira, at which enjoyable place we remained +eight days. Here our Captain, his wife, children, and gig’s midshipman +were entertained by the kindest of merchants, Mr. and Mrs. Bean, as +well as by Mr. Gordon, a partner. Markets were full of fruits of all +sorts--oranges, mountain strawberries, grapes, and bananas; ponies, +donkeys, picnics, etc.; who would not be a midshipman? We appeared +to be welcome everywhere. The troops and music I enjoyed, but, +what appeared curious--drill orders to the soldiers were given in +English--remnants of Peninsular! + +[Sidenote: June 21.] + +Our next stopping-place was St. Jago, one of the Cape de Verds. It +was dull after bright Madeira. Markets were full of tropical fruits, +monkeys, parrots, yams, and other vegetables, ground-nuts, etc. We +remained one whole day. + +Of my next visit I retain some painful remembrances, but enough for the +day is the evil thereof. + +We were now far within the tropics--flying-fish, porpoises, dolphin +seldom out of sight; besides, I thought of that terrible “Line” of +which I had heard so much. + +[Sidenote: July 4.] + +At 8 P.M. a light ahead was reported. We hove to. The sea-god Neptune +came over the bows and reported to our captain his intention of paying +a visit of welcome to all those who had not previously come within the +tropics. He brought with him his secretaries, who inscribed the names +of all first visitors. One old marine got off by stating he had served +in the Peninsula! + +Soon after I observed a lighted tar-cask floating astern, and hoped +that “His Majesty” was burning in it. The next morning he boarded and +took possession, and found plenty of brutal followers to help him and +all concerned in his disagreeable duties. + +I was seized by one of his greasy constables and conducted I knew not +where, and seated on something which felt like a capstan-bar. My face +was plastered with a mixture of tar and dirt, and scraped off with +a jagged piece of iron representing a razor; then, tipped backwards +into what I thought was overboard, I felt myself in the grip of other +brutes representing Neptune’s bears, who held me till I had swallowed a +sufficient portion of the filthy bath. I was then free for life to join +any future orgie. + +The ducking-pond was formed by a sail secured at the corners to the +combings, the centre lowered on to the main-deck, and filled from the +wash-deck pump. On the stern of one of the boom-boats, overlooking the +proceedings, was Neptune with Amphitrite by his side, on whose knee +sat a promising young cub, son of the sail-maker; allowed on board by +special permission before leaving England, apparently looking forward +to superintending similar operations. I found my way into the Captain’s +after-cabin, where my playfellows gave me a biscuit with jam and a +little something to wash it down. + +[Illustration: _Consolation._] + +[Sidenote: July 17.] + +We made Cape Frio July 17: then, squalls for a couple of days. Two +days after we made our number to the _Spartiate_ bearing the flag of +Rear-Admiral Sir George Eyre. The atmosphere was so clear that we could +distinctly make out the affirmative when the head of the topgallant +sails only could be seen above the horizon--a distance of fifteen miles. + +[Sidenote: July 19.] + +We brought the sea-breeze up with us, saluted, and followed the flag +into the magnificent harbour of Rio de Janeiro, and came to an +anchor. There I saw for the first time the white flag of France flying +on board the _Jean Bart_, 74, also the Stars and Stripes of the United +States on board the _Franklin_, 74. After the Brazilian national flag +we saluted that of Lord Cochrane, on board the _Don Pedro_, as High +Admiral of the Brazilian Navy, with 19 guns. + +[Sidenote: July 24.] + +I saw that gallant and extraordinary, but ill-used man, Lord Cochrane, +who came on board to return Captain Hunn’s visit. He was at this time, +in the estimation of the Old World and the New, the greatest man +afloat. He was tall and thin, of powerful build, with close-cut red +hair. + +[Illustration: _Meet Lord Cochrane._] + +I indeed felt proud when, on my Captain’s presenting, he shook me by +the hand. One of the last books I had read at the Naval College was his +action in the _Speedy_ sloop of 14 guns, with a crew of 54 men, when +he captured the Spanish frigate _El Gamo_, Captain de Torres. It was +on this occasion that Cochrane admitted he had nearly caught a Tartar. +While cruising off the coast of Spain, he saw what he took to be a +large merchant ship. On drawing near, she opened her hitherto disguised +ports, and disclosed the broadside guns of a frigate. Without going +into further details, she was carried by boarding. There were killed +on board the _El Gamo_ the Captain and 13 seamen, and 41 wounded, +exceeding in number the whole of the officers and crew of the _Speedy_. +The second in command of the _El Gamo_ succeeded in obtaining from +Cochrane a certificate stating that he had fought his ship like a true +Spaniard. + +Captain Hunn took a house at Boto Fogo, one of those beautiful inlets +in the harbour facing the Sugar-loaf, about three miles from the town. +I was again kindly included in the family party. The principal +Portuguese and most of the English merchants had residences there. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 2.] + +At midnight a salute of 101 guns was fired from the batteries in honour +of the birth of a Prince and future Emperor. The salute was repeated at +daylight, noon (when we joined), sunset, and midnight. + +Lord Cochrane had sailed with his fleet: an embargo was laid on all +ships for three weeks. Picnics and every sort of amusement went on. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 8.] + +The embargo being removed, we sailed with the early breeze in company +with some 500 sail of all nations. The show of white canvas was a +beautiful sight. When outside and in the open we spread out like a fan. + +Arrived off Bahia--Bahia de los Todos Santos (Bay of All +Saints)--perfectly sheltered and capable of holding the fleets of +all nations. Cochrane had been before us, and the Brazilian flag had +replaced that of Portugal. We anchored on the west side of the bay, off +the city of San Salvador. + +It appears that in June, about three months back, Lord Cochrane, with +the Brazilian squadron, consisting of the _Don Pedro_, 74, and three +frigates, manned, with the exception of 170 English seamen he had in +his flagship, by natives, appeared off this place, which was then in +possession of the Portuguese Government. + +He had no sooner made the entrance than he discovered the enemy’s fleet +of thirteen sail standing out to prevent the threatened blockade. +Cochrane formed his line-of-battle, and immediately bore down and put +his enemy to flight. Nothing occurred beyond the hammering some of them +got, but it led to the establishment of the blockade of their port. + +In the meantime Cochrane had prepared fireships. One dark night he +stood in in his flagship alone to reconnoitre. On being hailed, he +replied that it was an English ship. However, the consternation was +great when it was announced to the Portuguese Admiral and officers, who +were then at a ball, that Lord Cochrane’s fleet was in their midst. + +A panic was established: the evacuation of San Salvador determined, and +on July 1 a Junta was formed to carry on the Government in the name of +the Brazilian Empire. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 22.] + +We found trade going on in the same way as I suppose it had been under +the Portuguese flag. It made but little difference to the unfortunate +slaves as to the colour of the bunting that flew over them; although +most of the Portuguese merchants were in favour of the mother-country. + +The new Imperial troops were not much, although they exhibited on their +shakos “Libertad o Muerte.” + +One afternoon the Captain ordered me to take a despatch on board the +_Tweed_ to the commanding officer. On going towards the landing-place I +met Nightingale, the coxswain, who informed me that he was not allowed +to pass the guard. On my remonstrating with the officer, who I noticed +was not the same who was on guard when I landed, I showed him the back +of the letter, which appeared to make matters worse. Now, I believed +myself to be in charge of a despatch of importance. + +Having, on landing, noticed that the muskets in the racks at the +guard-house were beautifully polished; and thinking them more fit to +look at than for use, I told old Nightingale to be ready for a rush. +The crew were up to the occasion, and before a musket could be got +at, the sentry was on his back, and we were all in the boat, with +the exception of Harrison, a coloured bowman who had a slight bayonet +scratch on the back of his neck, being slow in casting off the painter. + +After a while a few musket-balls dropped in the water short of the gig. +Of course there was a row, but I think it was our Consul who explained +that the Brazilian officer was wrong in attempting to stop a British +officer in uniform, however small. Nothing satisfactory to either party +was arranged. + +We left Bahia on the 17th, and arrived at the open and exposed +anchorage of Pernambuco on August 23. We found Lord Cochrane had +arrived with his squadron on the 18th. + +The “Patriots,” as they called themselves, had not been idle. Count +Manuel Carvalho Pas de Andrade had been elected President: he had +already denounced Don Pedro as a traitor, and was endeavouring to +excite the neighbouring provinces to form themselves into a federation +on the model of the United States, under the title of “Confederação del +Ecuador.” + +A few days after our arrival Lord Cochrane came on board the _Tweed_, +but I do not think there was much cordiality between him and our +Captain. An attempt at arrangement by correspondence having failed, +Lord Cochrane threatened to bombard the city. + +The shoal-water and exposed anchorage would not admit of the fleet +going in, but on the night of August 27 I witnessed the pretty +effect of mortar shells flying between the small craft and the forts +protecting the town. The damage done was not, however, much on either +side. + +The following day we were disappointed at seeing Lord Cochrane sail for +Bahia, which he did to get wood for rafts and to procure vessels of +light draught, capable of carrying mortars. He left a portion of his +fleet behind to continue the blockade. The Brazilian General, Lima, +who had been landed with his troops about seventy miles distant at a +place called Alagoas, hearing of the panic established, pushed on for +Pernambuco, where he arrived on September 11, and, assisted by the +blockading squadron, made an attack on the town. + +President Carvalho retreated to the suburbs, which were protected by +an inlet of the sea, and, having broken down the bridge, prepared to +defend himself. However, his heart failed him, for during my middle +watch the following night a catamaran came alongside with the would-be +President fully accoutred, just as he had left the fight, having come +to claim the protection of the British flag! + +All the next and two following days the fight was kept up with much +spirit, the place being gallantly defended while the “brave” Count +Carvalho looked on from the deck of the _Tweed_. We were so near that +on one occasion a shot fired at one of the blockading squadron passed +over our mastheads. + +On September 13 _Brazen_, 20, Captain W. Willes, arrived from the +coast of Africa. In running for the anchorage whilst hostilities were +going on, her English ensign was taken for a ruse on the part of Lord +Cochrane’s squadron, and she was fired into, two round shots taking +effect. One cut away the hammock netting and tore up part of the +quarter-deck. Luckily no one was hurt. + +When Lord Cochrane returned to Pernambuco, he found Lima in possession. +He then sent an officer on board the _Tweed_ to request that the +“rebel” and “traitor” Carvalho might be given up. + +Three days later the Brazilian fleet and forts fired a royal salute in +honour of the victory, in which, in obedience to an order signalled by +the Captain of the _Brazen_, we joined. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 21.] + +Carvalho embarked on board the _Brazen_, and, much to our disgust, +under a salute. I had to part with my two little playfellows, who, with +Mrs. Hunn, also went home in her. + +Directly the _Brazen_ loosed sails, the Brazilian fleet did likewise, +and, seeing this, our Captain interpreted it (or pretended to) as +a device on the part of Lord Cochrane to take Carvalho out of the +_Brazen_ by force, and we also prepared to weigh and clear for action. +However, it all ended without smoke. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 22.] + +We sailed on September 22, not sorry to get away. We had been six +weeks rolling--at times, our main-deck ports in the water; holding no +communication with the shore, and, with the exception of the fighting +in which, as we would take no part, there was little to excite interest. + +We youngsters amused ourselves, meanwhile, fishing, which we could +only venture to do at night, and then out of the mizen-chains, hid by +quarter-boats. + +One day, when I was sitting in the gig astern of the ship, a school +of whales came into the bay, like so many frolicsome porpoises; and +so near did they come that I found my way to the ship’s deck up the +Jacob’s ladder. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 2.] + +We left Pernambuco on our return to Rio, where we arrived October 2. +This was a jolly place for us mids. There is no nicer harbour for +boat excursions, rides, picnics, etc., fun, in which we joined those +of other ships. One of our lieutenants, Pat Blake, was a favourite +with us. There were lively fellows in the squadron, one of whom, named +Hathorn, was lent to us from the flagship. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 14.] + +Early in the morning, it being calm, we were towed out of the harbour +by boats, on which events those of the foreign men-of-war always +assisted. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 24.] + +On the 24th we came to in Maldanado Roads, an interesting place. The +only thing that struck me as odd was, if you made a purchase which cost +less than a dollar, they chopped that coin in pieces to give you change. + +We sailed the following day, and arrived at Rio de la Plata, a large +muddy river, unworthy of the name--porpoises and seal in plenty. I had +many rifle shots at the round head of the latter, with their large +bright black eyes; but they were too quick for me. + +Horses were in plenty. If you hired one for a ride, the owner bargained +that in case it died you must bring back the shoes--they only shod the +forefeet. It was a wild and open country; everyone appeared mounted as +well as carrying a lasso, which would bring you to the ground with more +certainty than a pistol-shot. We never ventured alone, but took long +rides into the country. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 29.] + +We sailed from the River Plate, and got back to Rio October 29. Found +_Aurora_, _Blonde_, and _Jaseur_. _Blonde_ a beautiful 48-gun frigate, +Captain Lord Byron, who had on board the bodies of the late King and +Queen of the Sandwich Islands, who had fallen victims to the measles +while on a visit to England. + +There was in the Rua de Rita, over a shop-door, a large gilded metal +cock that had for years resisted the attempts of the midshipmen of the +British fleet; it was not strong nor heavy, but placed out of reach. +There were watchmen about, as it had been often in danger, and it was +for the benefit of the bird that Jack Hathorn got lent to the _Tweed_, +bound for the River Plate, that he might find a suitable lasso. + +Days, or rather nights, passed without an opportunity: rain did not +fall heavy enough; the moon would peep out. At length a storm, that +had been threatening the early part of the night, broke with great +violence. It was as dark as pitch. Cocoanut-oil lamps put themselves +out; heavy stones that we carried through the dark were thrown down +with a yell, unheeded by the guardians of the night; while Jack +Hathorn and a chosen few, with his Monte Video lasso as well as a +properly-prepared instrument, loosened the claws of the noble bird, +which alighted in a downpour of rain on a pile of midshipmen’s cloaks, +and was borne off. + +The sentry at the guard-house, under shelter of his box, did not +trouble himself to ascertain how drunk was the comrade being conveyed +to the boat which had been so long waiting. How sorry I was that my +diminutive size prevented my having shared in this triumph! I hear the +bird may now be seen in the hall of the Hathorn family at Castle-Wigg, +in Wigtonshire, with a scroll in its beak describing the above. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 16.] + +Accidents will happen in the best regulated families. More than two +courts-martial took place during our stay at Rio; but my friend +Lieutenant Blake was acquitted and discharged into the _Aurora_, which +ship was towed out of harbour, and sailed for England, December 16. + +As gig’s midshipman, I was much on shore; and, waiting for the Captain, +amused myself in the extensive market, furnished as it was with every +tropical fruit and flower. But my favourite amusement was to watch the +monkeys, from the beautiful little marmoset to the more mischievous +green species. One of these usually wiped his hands on my white +trousers. Although not allowed, the evening before we sailed I smuggled +my little friend on board in the Captain’s cloak-bag, and stowed him in +the scuttle of the midshipmen’s berth. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 25.] + +On Christmas Day we got our usual tow out of the harbour, and made sail +for England. Two days later we unbent cables and stowed anchors. + +After a while it came to my turn to dine with the Captain. One of my +facetious messmates thought it good fun to give my little prisoner a +run. By instinct he made his way to the Captain’s cabin. Seated on the +deck, surveying the apartment, the Captain spotted him, and ordered the +sentry to throw the beast overboard. On the first move of the marine, +the monkey with a bound was on my shoulder, his little hands clasped +round my forehead, chattering and grinning; there being no mistake as +to the owner. I suppose the Captain was moved by the affection of the +little fellow. We were dismissed. + +Nothing of importance occurred during our long voyage. On February 26 +made the Lizard at daylight and bent cables. We had a chain-cable, +which was only used once; but every month we had to rouse the thing on +deck and knock the shackling-bolts out, in order to anoint them with +some white mixture. + +[Sidenote: 1825. Feb. 27.] + +We ran through the Needles, saluted flag, and came to at Spithead. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +THE _TWEED_ + + +[Sidenote: 1825. Feb. 28.] + +The _Tweed_ at Spithead became one of the Channel Squadron, and +commenced refit. + +First visit was to my brother Tom at the College. Landing in +the dockyard, our shortest route lay through the lower-mast and +boat-houses. In the latter we found one of our masters’ mates returning +condemned, and drawing new stores. He, too, wanted to see my brother; +so, leaving the stores to the care of the warrant officer, he joined us. + +I must attempt to describe this good-tempered salt, Peter Dobree by +name. He was from Guernsey. Although not too young, he was the junior +of our masters’ mates; and had a shock head of red hair which protruded +from under his hat. I was told that, when on board the hulk during +our outfit, if he saw a child about the deck unprotected, he would +imitate its cry and a dog’s snarl so closely that half the wives would +rush to the rescue. It did not matter how often he repeated the joke, +the effect was the same. When he got leave to go on shore late in the +evening, he scorned the use of a boat; he would jump overboard and +swim to the logs--this, too, in the winter months. He kept a change of +raiment at the “Keppel’s Head.” + +Dobree followed us to the College, where I found Tom. It was winter; +we could only make a short tour. Dobree, passing the area near Dr. +Inman’s, espied a large round dish of setting cream. He was down the +steps and his mouth in the cream, when the dairymaid pushed his head +in, to which the cream adhered. It was just closing time as he escaped +through the storehouse doors. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 3.] + +I started by mail with my monkey, and the following evening was at +Quidenham. Jacko appeared to take possession. The excitement he caused +was great. At first he would not trust himself out of my reach, but +was only too much at home afterwards. The ship was again wanted for +service. I had not time to visit my sister Anne, who had in February +1822 married Mr. Coke. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 8.] + +I was much vexed, when I got back, to find that some good-natured +messmate had on Sunday afternoon given my brother at the College a +small bottle of first-rate Jamaica. Now Tom’s position in the ranks at +prayers was, unfortunately, just in front of the Governor. During the +short service the poor boy lost his balance, and prostrated himself on +the floor. The next morning in the cupola he ascertained what a birch +administered by a Blue Marine sergeant was like. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 21.] + +We sailed in company with a small experimental squadron. Got as far +as Lymington and back, through Spithead to off Dover, Dungeness, and +Downs. In the latter anchorage lay the _Ramillies_, 74. + +In addition to her Captain and officers, she had 103 lieutenants and +33 assistants borne for coastguard service. She was a show ship, and +for the convenience of ladies getting on board had a large cask fitted +with a seat. On the bottom, outside, was painted a clown’s grinning +face, which made people laugh, while the occupant in mid-air believed +her little ankles were being seen. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 27.] + +We were ordered to Harwich, where we embarked Rear-Admiral Plampin, +and saluted him with 13 guns. It was the end of the week before we had +embarked suite and luggage and sailed. + +[Sidenote: April 1.] + +Still no hurry, and, with occasional anchorings it was April 1 before +we reached Cork to assume the command in place of Lord Colville, who +had sailed in the _Semiramis_, which ship returned on May 7 without his +lordship, when we transferred our flag. + +We were glad to get back among our kind and hospitable friends. + +We had, however, a visit from a pedlar, whose wares were various. He +was rash enough to venture on the lower deck of a man-of-war, whose +inhabitants were mixed. Now, Dobree, who, I suppose, had got tired of +snuffing the purser’s dips with his fingers, invested in a pair of +plated snuffers. + +Unluckily, before the pedlar had cleared out, and on the third time of +asking, the plating came off the snuffers. The pedlar bolted, and his +box followed, the contents dispersed in front of the marines’ mess. +Luckily they spread no further and were recovered. + +I believe I was the only loser, inasmuch as the pedlar lodged a +complaint with the kind and good Mrs. Dunsterville. The pedlar knew no +names, he could only describe his enemy as the “foxy-headed gintleman.” +As I was the only “gintleman” with red hair Mrs. Dunsterville knew, my +invitations to that cheery establishment ceased, and her son John, my +messmate, never came on board if he knew of it. + +[Sidenote: May 8.] + +We left Cork, and arrived at Portsmouth on the 12th. + +[Sidenote: May 17.] + +Captain going away, and as there would be no particular service for +gig’s midshipman, I got him to endorse a cheque on Woodhead and Co. for +£5, and obtained the usual leave from the First Lieutenant to go on +shore. + +With a small bag I took up my quarters at the “Keppel’s Head,” +intending to enjoy myself. + +On the afternoon of the _third_ day, before returning on board, I was +taking a parting cup of tea with Mrs. Harrison, the landlady, when the +sergeant of marines from the _Tweed_, trailing a halbert, for which +there was no room, put his head in, without taking his shako off, +stated that I was his prisoner, and withdrew. + +[Illustration: _Arrested._] + +The back window of the parlour opened into Havant Street, by which +I found my way with the small bag to the “Hard,” where my faithful +water-man, James Sly, instead of taking me on board the _Tweed_, +conveyed me to Ryde Pier. + +[Sidenote: May 24.] + +I knew some of the good fellows of the 60th Rifles, Colonel A. Ellis, +quartered at Newport. After a few days’ enjoyment, money expended, I +returned to the _Tweed_, without the help of the sergeant. Of course I +was put under arrest. + +[Sidenote: June 25.] + +Sailed from Spithead on a cruise to the eastward, reaching Sheerness +the following day, which we left and anchored off Boulogne. + +[Sidenote: July 1.] + +The Duke of Northumberland and suite having been to attend the +coronation of Charles Dix, on His Grace’s re-embarking on board the +_Lightning_, we fired a salute of 19 guns, which we, as well as the +_Brazen_, 28, Captain Willes, repeated on His Excellency’s landing at +Dover. + +[Sidenote: July 12.] + +We returned to the Nore and remained until 12th, when we started on a +pleasant summer cruise along the east coast. + +[Sidenote: July 15.] + +Exchanged numbers with the _Glasgow_, Captain Hon. J. A. Maude, a +50-gun frigate under sail. No prettier sight! She had fitted out at +Deptford. We anchored in Yarmouth Roads. The east coast was seldom +frequented by anything larger than a revenue cruiser. + +[Sidenote: Yarmouth, July 19.] + +We were crowded with visitors. I had some kind Wilson cousins. One day, +when they were not on board, I selected two pretty young women to show +round. My dignity was hurt; when I helped them into their boat they +offered me sixpence, my uniform having been taken for livery, but not +liking to hurt their feelings I pocketed the coin. + +Fired royal salute, His Majesty’s birthday. We sailed from Yarmouth; +22nd, anchored off Grimsby; next day joined party to Hull; the pilot of +the packet we were in sounded his way with a pole. + +[Sidenote: July 31.] + +Visited Scarborough, a very different place, but did not stay long, +Captain thinking anchorage exposed. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 4.] + +Off the Dogger Bank we caught a lot of cod-fish. On August 4 we came +into Peggy’s Hole, North Shields. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 8.] + +Sent an officer and party to Sunderland to quell small disturbance. +In four days they returned, and we sailed for Leith Roads. We really +enjoyed Edinburgh. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 18.] + +The _Parthian_, 10, Commander Hon. George Barrington, arrived. Next day +we sailed, getting back to Spithead on 28th. + +The worst of belonging to the Channel Fleet, you were never safe to +go any distance; but we had many kind friends in the neighbourhood. +One of my brother mids was Charles Patterson, the son of an Admiral, +who lived at Cosham. He was a friend of my Captain, and I often stayed +with him. The old gentleman was kindness itself, with no end of good +stories. He swore a good deal, but only at himself: his heart, or +liver, etc. + +The latter part of his service as Captain was as Governor of Porchester +Castle, which was, and will always be, a most interesting ruin. Built +by the Romans, in the fourteenth century it was used by King John as a +State prison. + +At the period of the Revolutionary wars it held French prisoners, and +Dutch sailors taken at the battle of Camperdown. + +The Admiral had a pretty daughter, with whom we midshipmen were in +love. Mrs. Patterson was so kind to us. She was a wonderful horsewoman. +I never saw the Admiral in any other costume by day than yellow +leathers and mahogany tops. Miss Patterson had a collection of animals +carved by the prisoners out of their meat-bones. I have some of them +now. + +[Sidenote: Portsmouth, Sept. 14.] + +We got notice to receive on board Bishop Inglis and family for Nova +Scotia. + +While at the Naval College I had watched with interest the building of +the _Princess Charlotte_, not only on account of her grand proportions, +but there were associations connecting the name of that fair Princess +with our family, my grandmother, Lady de Clifford, having been +governess to Her Royal Highness. + +In those days a ship of the line frequently remained ten or twelve +years on the stocks. To stand on the keel near the sternpost and look +forward, at a time before beams or planking of any sort had been +placed, and to reflect that 800 full-grown oak-trees had been expended +in her construction, made you lost in wonder. The _Princess Charlotte_ +was laid down in 1812, and was to carry 120 guns and have a round +stern: an innovation in those days on the present square old _Victory_. + +Thursday, September 13, was the day fixed for the launch, ushered in +by a royal salute, announcing the arrival of Leopold, Crown Prince of +Belgium, who was to christen her. + +Being anxious for a good place, I landed early from the _Tweed_. +Climbing to the top of a building-shed I commanded a fine view. +Spectators assembled in thousands. + +As large ships were only launched on the top of spring tides, a larger +quantity of water than usual had been admitted into the floating-basin. + +When the moment arrived the great ship started, and the lock of the +dry-dock burst. On the one hand I saw the huge ship majestically +sliding into the harbour; while on the other, hundreds of human beings +were being precipitated into the dry-dock by the bursting of the lock +and breaking of the bridge, which was crowded. + +Some of those who were in the centre were carried the whole length of +the dock and managed to escape. + +Full particulars may be found in the _Hampshire Telegraph_, September +13, 1825. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 28.] + +Having embarked the Very Rev. J. Inglis, Bishop of Nova Scotia, Mrs. +Inglis, and two tall, handsome daughters, we sailed for Halifax. The +summer was over, and we had no time to lose, as we hoped to escape +being frozen in for the winter in Canada. + +Things generally go on smoothly while ladies are on board. However, we +were detained two days at Cowes and ten at Falmouth. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 21.] + +We anchored in Fayal Roads on 21st until 23rd, when we again sailed +into more bad weather. + +[Sidenote: Halifax, N. S. Nov. 7.] + +It was the 7th before we reached Halifax. How thankful our poor +passengers must have been! We saluted the flag of Rear-Admiral W. T. +Lake; afterwards landed our good Bishop under salute of 13 guns. + +The Bishop and family did all they could to make our short stay +pleasant, particularly to us youngsters. A ball was given, at which I +was too shy to dance with one of the tall and handsome Miss Inglises. +General Sir James Kempt was the Governor, one of the most popular as +well as the smartest officers I had seen. Years afterwards he seconded +Lord Lyndoch’s proposal for me as a member of the United Service Club. + +[Sidenote: Sunday, Nov. 20.] + +We received on board Commander Canning and officers of the _Sappho_ +for passage home, she having been wrecked on the coast. The flagship +_Jupiter_, 60, shifted nearer entrance preparatory to going into milder +winter quarters. + +[Sidenote: Monday, Nov. 21.] + +In proof that we had remained long enough, our sails were frozen to the +yards. It took marling-spikes to hammer the gaskets before the sails +could be loosed. + +We sailed after breakfast, with the _Pelter_, 10, brig in company. +I fancy junior commanders don’t care about being in co., and after +Wednesday evening we saw no more of her. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 1.] + +December 1 found us in 43° north latitude; unpleasant mornings for +washing decks. I saw but little of our passenger, the Prime Minister’s +son, nor did he much of his half-uncle. + +[Sidenote: Sunday, Dec. 11.] + +Just at dark came to in Plymouth Sound. Sailed 13th, arriving at +Spithead 14th. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +THE _TWEED_ + + +[Sidenote: 1826. Jan. 19.] + +Had to attend my Captain at a court-martial which caused an unusual +sensation. It took place on board the _Victory_ in Portsmouth Harbour, +with all established pomp and ceremony. The president was Rear-Admiral +of the White, Sir William Hall Gage. On opening the Court, the ten +senior Captains of those assembled were sworn; the remainder were +informed their services were not required. The Provost-Marshal, with +drawn sword and cocked hat, in charge of the prisoner, took position +at the lower end near the right side of the table, on which lay the +prisoner’s sword with handle towards him. + +The following Captains formed the Court, taking their seats on +alternate sides of the table, according to seniority, the senior on the +right of the president: + + Patrick Campbell, C.B., _Ocean_, 80. + Sir Michael Seymour, Bart., K.C.B., Royal Yacht. + Henry Hill, _Melville_, 74. + Fred. Warren, _Spartiate_, 76. + Charles Inglis, _Victory_, 104. + William Fairbrother Carrol, _Warspite_, 76. + Nicholas Lockyer, C.B., _Romney_. + Fred. Hunn, _Tweed_, 28. + Richard Deans Dundas, _Volage_, 26. + +The prisoner was Captain of the _Ariadne_. He was tried for having +purchased a slave negress at Zanzibar, and taken her to sea. She +mysteriously disappeared off the coast of Africa. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 24] + +The trial lasted three days. When the Court reopened for the last time, +the members had resumed their cocked hats, the prisoner’s sword lay +on the table with the point towards him. He was dismissed the service +of His Majesty King George IV., and Captain Adolphus Fitz-Clarence +appointed to the _Ariadne_. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 20.] + +Received Colonel Dashwood, appointed Consul at Mexico, a guardsman, +and of course a good fellow: it was not until the 25th that we got his +luggage and fixings on board. In the afternoon we sailed, but not in a +hurry; Captains with Government passengers seldom are. We anchored at +Cowes and Yarmouth; next move we ran through the Needles. + +[Feb. 15.] + +We were glad to find ourselves out of the cold, and came to in Funchall +Roads. We saluted the Portuguese flag: the pinnace, instead of being +astern, was fast to the guess-warp boom; her planking so shook that +she had to be hoisted in. Next day the First Lieutenant was invalided, +and went home in the _Eden_, 28. On shore we enjoyed the usual kind +hospitality. I had lost my female playfellows, and, although I did not +grow, I joined my seniors in the rides and picnics; that at the Corral, +for enjoyment and scenery, is not to be beaten. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 27.] + +On sailing, we got unusually quick into the north-east trade; sails +trimmed accordingly, ropes coiled up, and ship prepared for painting. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 20.] + +We came to in Carlisle Bay, Barbadoes. Sent boats and party on shore +for water, which I was allowed to join. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 25.] + +We sailed. No scenery in the Mediterranean can be more beautiful +than that we experienced running past the beautiful Islands of Porto +Rico, St. Domingo, and distant view of Cuba; sea clear and smooth; +flying-fish, dolphin, and sea-birds. + +[Sidenote: April 5.] + +Running into Port Royal, we saluted the flag of Vice-Admiral Sir +Lawrence Halstead. + +The next morning I saw the Governor, the Duke of Manchester, who +had driven down from his hill residence to meet our Captain--his +conveyance, a random tandem: two leaders abreast and a horse between +the shafts. + +[Sidenote: April 8.] + +We left Port Royal, running down the trade, and reached Vera Cruz on +the 19th, saluting the Mexican flag with 19 guns. + +[Sidenote: April 23.] + +Royal salute, it being His Majesty George IV.’s birthday. Same day +Governor-General of Vera Cruz came on board, and was saluted with 19 +guns. It took a few days before the Consul’s house at Xalapa was fit to +receive him; he left us under a salute of 7 guns, but what he seemed to +prefer were three hearty British cheers. + +The Gulf of Mexico is for dollars what the bank of Newfoundland is for +fish; owing to the number of slavers, who, when their trade is slack, +are not above doing a bit of piracy, the merchants care not to trust +their money to traders, while Captains of the Royal Navy were keen +freight collectors. + +I copy the following from my Navy List:-- + +“Proclamation by His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, Regent of the +United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, in the name and on behalf +of His Majesty. + +“The freight paid for the conveyance of treasure on board a man-of-war +in the West Indies 2 per cent. On the other side of the Capes Horn +and Good Hope, a half more. Of this freight, one-fourth to Greenwich +Hospital, one-fourth to the Admiral, or Admirals, on the station, and +the remaining two-fourths to the Captain.” + +I observed that half the pier at Vera Cruz was built of lumps of iron, +such as have since been called “Seeley’s pigs.” They had been landed +at different times to make room for specie. The Admiral took care to +keep a cruiser not far off, so that the arrival of a convoy of specie +from Mexico was quickly communicated. Now and then a wicked little mail +brig from Falmouth would drop in, and walk off with what she could +carry. Cochineal paid freight, but it was too bulky, and required time. +Our turn had not arrived, so we kept between Tampico and Vera Cruz, +learning something. + +[Sidenote: May 9.] + +We came to off Tampico. A more uninviting open roadstead could not be: +in-shore the mouth of a large river, a bar and heavy surf breaking +across and beyond. We lay at single anchor ready to face foul weather. + +Fresh water was only to be had by sending our boom-boats, with casks, +up the river, beyond high-water mark, and remaining the night. When +you got back, it was doubtful whether the state of the bar would allow +deep-laden boats to cross. To us mids, who had no responsibility, it +was great fun. Alligators, turtle, and sharks were numerous; these +were seen to advantage from the shore, when waves came rolling in, +lifting the monsters into the light. The beach was covered with large +mahogany-trees and broken branches, washed down by the rain floods. + +[Sidenote: May 12.] + +It was my turn to go with the water boats--to me a picnic. Over +the bar, we pulled up the river, tide with us, intending to anchor +off-shore for the night; but first we had to cook a substantial meal +under the trees. I was about to jump from the bow of the pinnace on +to a dead tree covered with mud, when the bowman put his hand on my +shoulder, and pointed out that my “dead tree” was a live alligator. I +ran aft and seized a marine’s musket, already loaded. The reptile at +that moment lifted his upper jaw, and I sent a ball into his stomach. +He was assailed with stretchers and cutlasses, and soon became harmless. + +At daylight we filled our casks from alongside, and pulled easily down +with the tide, alligator in tow, and so alongside. As I could not +pickle the brute, I was anxious to obtain the bullet, it being my first +shot at big game, and got the good-natured Assistant-Surgeon Taylor +to dissect him. While performing, the doctor complained of the strong +smell of musk, which I attributed to the ball he was in search of. The +alligator measured eleven feet from tip of nose to end of tail. + +[Sidenote: May 18.] + +We sailed for the Havana. On June 6, as we passed in, close under the +famous Moro, we were hailed through a huge brass trumpet, in some +unintelligible jargon, which was replied to in much the same coin. + +[Sidenote: Havana, June 6.] + +I was now in the famous Havana, of which I had heard (and seen, as far +as pictures go) so much at Quidenham. My grandfather, assisted by his +brothers, General William and Commodore Augustus Keppel, had captured +it in 1762. + +[Sidenote: June 13.] + +_Galatea_, 42. Sir Charles Sullivan, Bart., arrived from Carthagena; +secured along the spritsail yard was the skin of a huge alligator. The +Spanish Main was unhealthy, yet famous for the collection of dollars; +but this gallant officer, the moment he had two of his crew down with +fever, left the dollars for the next cruiser to collect. + +Sailed from the Havana on June 13 to rejoin the flag, arriving off +the port on the evening of July 5: we had to wait for the next day’s +sea-breeze to take us in. + +[Sidenote: July 6.] + +On running for Port Royal we stuck on the middle bank, the sea-breeze, +with its accompanying swell, having set in. We did not shorten sail, as +we drew only about three inches less than the water over the brittle +coral reef. My station was in the main top; the sea and down to the +bottom as clear as crystal: it was a pretty sight, when the swell +lifted the ship and eased her down. As we proceeded, the variety of +beautiful fish and animals dashed from under, on both sides. Got into +Port Royal with our bottom a little cleaner than it was. I believe +the mishap occurred by the Quartermaster not rightly distinguishing +the black pilot’s pronunciation of “starboard” and “larboard.” Found +here the magnificent hospital and store-ship _Isis_, 50, with flag, +_Rattlesnake_, 28, and _Harlequin_, 18. + +Sent pinnace with specie to Kingston. We were not wanted long; I had +only time to make the acquaintance of one Johnnie Ferron, a jolly +Frenchman, who kept a store, in which was to be found everything, even +to a pair of skates, and three pretty daughters. We were ordered on a +cruise: there were few dollars, but we _might_ tumble across a slaver. + +[Sidenote: July 11, 16.] + +Sailed for the eastward, and as trade wind and current were the same +way, we had to work to windward, unless, as frequently happened near +land, we got becalmed with islands of Cuba and St. Domingo in sight. + +At daylight we saw a rakish-looking black schooner, running before the +wind under studding sails. She no sooner made us out than she hauled to +the wind, and was soon out of sight. + +[Sidenote: July 20.] + +Four days after we ran into Port-au-Prince, and saluted the Black +Republican flag with seventeen guns. + +Mr. Mackenzie was our Consul, and through him we saw quite enough. +There were negroes parading about in the cast-off uniforms of our +infantry and cavalry, helmets and jack-boots, but nothing to ride. + +The most beautiful island in the Far West was the first landed on by +Christopher Columbus. Some of his followers fancied they smelt gold; he +left a party behind, from the effects of which Hayti never recovered. + +For the short time that they claimed the British protection our hands +were full, and we only undertook half-and-half measures. During the +earthquake of 1842, 3000 people were burnt. The history of St. Domingo +and Hayti fills a book of horrors. + +[Sidenote: August 23, 29.] + +Sailed from Port-au-Prince on August 6; during our cruise visited the +Gonaives and St. Jago de Cuba. + +Left in the early morning, just in time to share prize-money with the +_Aurora_ and _Harlequin_. + +Observed the frigate fire a shot across the bows of a schooner under +Dutch colours; between us she had no chance of escape. She proved to be +Spanish, from Africa, with 267 slaves on board, which, as their heads +were shaved and greased, they looked, before we got close, like so many +32 lb. round shot. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 2.] + +On September 2 arrived at Port Royal, and commenced final refit before +going to Spanish Main, dollar-hunting. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 6.] + +The _Lord Sidmouth_ mail-packet sailed for England, and _Ferret_, with +convoy flag, for Chagres. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 21.] + +Arrived _Countess of Chichester_ packet, with mail from Falmouth. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 23.] + +We sailed. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 5.] + +Came to in Vera Cruz, moored with B. B., down stream to the Castle. + +[Illustration: _Vera Cruz._] + +[Sidenote: Oct. 18.] + +While dollars were being piled sailed on a cruise. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 27.] + +On the 27th becalmed about 150 miles south-west of the Mississippi in +40 fathoms water, and had some excellent sport; cod-fish at the bottom +seized both baits as they reached them. About 12 fathoms below the +surface sharks abounded; the sea was as clear as glass: the fun was to +steer your hooked fish through them. But a shark is a lazy brute, likes +to know something about what he is going to eat; the deep-sea shark is +always attended by a pilot-fish, who makes his report. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 17.] + +Arrived at Port Royal; not much to do. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 26.] + +Towed out of harbour into sea-breeze. + +[Sidenote: Mexico, Vera Cruz, Dec. 6.] + +Made the beautiful snow-capped mountain of Orizaba. Moored between +roadstead and St. Juan d’Ulloa. Our Captain having decided that he +would carry cochineal as well as dollars, the main-deck guns were run +in and the carriages secured fore and aft. The half-ports caulked in, +leaving the lower deck cleared for cargo, crew consoling themselves +by the absence of gun-drill and the comfort of an airy deck. In fact, +on arriving on the station, hammocks by general consent were dispensed +with. I, as well as the rest, had for two years no other bed than the +deck, with jackets rolled up for a pillow. + +[Sidenote: 1827. Jan. 1.] + +Lieutenant Christopher Smith and self availed ourselves of the repeated +kind invitations of Colonel Dashwood to visit him at Xalapa, to us a +strange country not without its excitements. We were glad of the chance +to get above the sickly Tierra Caliente. Xalapa stands on table-land +some 4300 feet above the level of the sea, distant twenty-two leagues. + +Our conveyances were a sort of flat palanquins, supported between long +shafts with a mule at each end: mounted armed guides and mules with +luggage completed our caravan. On account of the heat, we did not start +until sunset. The first half of our journey was along a sandy desert +infested by brigands, to protect us from which we paid our guides +extra; of course, at one part of the night we were told to keep our +pistols ready. Convoys are necessary for the frequent conveyance of +dollars from Mexico, and of which business men take advantage, coming +and returning. + +After passing a refreshment-house at Santa Fé, we crossed the grand +Puente del Rey, and began to ascend. It was curious how quickly we felt +the agreeable change of climate, and enjoyed the fresh smell of trees +and flowers, the sight of birds of various plumage, and small hares +crossing the road. + +At San Rafael refreshed animals and selves at a decent _posada_. Smell +of garlic we did not mind. At 3 P.M. we were welcomed at the hospitable +establishment of Colonel Dashwood. Only a land-surveyor could describe +the beauty of the scene--the great table-land in front, with its +tropical vegetation, and the background of Perote and the snow-clad +Orizaba, in the centre of the torrid zone, flanked by volcanic +mountains. One understood how the gallant guardsman could have left his +snug quarters in St. James’s. + +Xalapa was formerly the mart of New Spain; merchandise brought on mules +to the annual fair. The apparently magnificent cathedral at the city +of Mexico, a grand pile to look at, was, on account of the frequent +earthquakes, built of bamboo and cane, and so plastered over. + +Visited some of the country villages, and was astonished to see the +plaster figure of Our Saviour crucified as a black man! + +I will not attempt to describe the hospitality of our kind host. Mutton +was the prevailing dish; the atmosphere suited sheep better than +bullocks, but game and water-fowl were in plenty. I had an early taste +for ornithology, and enjoyed many days with my gun in the adjacent +forests. Oak-trees flourished on the tableland, and vegetables in its +temperate climate. The tree which produces the drug jalap thrives here: +about 200,000 lb. are exported annually. But I am getting out of my +depth as a sailor, and our visit with the kind, hospitable Dashwood too +soon came to an end. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 3.] + +Took leave of our kind host, arriving on board the following day. + +[Sidenote: February 5, 26; March 18, 23.] + +Sailed, cruising off and on Tampico, collecting dollars and cochineal, +until 26th, when we sailed, and arrived at the Havana on March 18. +Sailed again on the 23rd. + +[Sidenote: April 21.] + +Sighted the Lizard. + + EXTRACT FROM “HAMPSHIRE TELEGRAPH,” + APRIL 28, 1827. + + On Tuesday the _Tweed_, Captain Frederick Hunn, arrived from + Vera Cruz, Tampico, and the Havana, bringing half a million + dollars on account of the Mexican Government, to pay interest + on the Mexican Loan. Also one and a half million hard dollars, + and 336 serons of cochineal, worth at present market value + £40,000, on merchants’ account. + +[Sidenote: May 17.] + +Paid out of commission. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +1827 + + +[Sidenote: 1827. May 18.] + +_Tweed_ was re-commissioned by Captain Lord John Churchill, of whom I +had heard nothing but good. Was glad to find myself reappointed. Having +returned from foreign service, I was entitled to leave, and was kindly +received in my old quarters at Kensington Palace by H.R.H. the Duke of +Sussex. + +[Sidenote: May-June.] + +The season had commenced, London was filling, and His Royal Highness +entertaining with his usual hospitality. I had not got over my shyness, +but preferred the smaller parties. One evening I was rather late; the +dinner-party were actually waiting for me. As I entered the room, a +voice close by called out, “Waiter, are my steaks ready?” which was +immediately replied to, “No, sir; but your chops are.” I found that I +owed _one_ to Mr. Yates, the then famous ventriloquist. + +I found an opportunity to join my sisters, who had assembled at +Holkham. Mary had married Mr. Stephenson, and Georgina, Colonel Hill; +and with the Coke children it was very cheery. + +There was a distinguished American, Mr. Paterson, who had a charming +wife and two tall, handsome daughters. It was the custom in those days +to have after-dinner prayers. On my sister inviting Mr. Paterson to +attend, he replied, “I thank you Lady Anne; but I pray devoutly and +sincerely, _once_ a week!” + +[Illustration: _Holkham._] + +[Sidenote: June-July.] + +My father had married and was abroad, but I could not leave Norfolk +without looking up my favourite elder brother Edward, the clergyman +at Quidenham. During my short stay he proposed a visit to the mere, +where we had so often fished, rowed, and skated together. On our way +we had to pass a hollow oak. Edward told me that if I rapped the tree +with my stick an owl would fly out. I did rap, and the horrid bird in +its fright upset a bucket of whitewash over the parson’s black coat; +thought I should never have stopped laughing. + +My brother Tom was at sea in the _Undaunted_, 46, commanded by Sir +Augustus Clifford. + +These were stirring times. When back at Portsmouth I found a fleet of +Russian ships of the line extending from St. Helens to the Mother Bank. + +[Sidenote: August.] + +The _Tweed_ had been fitted for the Mediterranean station. A Caffre +war had for some time been going on at the Cape. The _Espoir_, 16, +commanded by F. Greville, was ordered to convey money for payment of +the troops. At the eleventh hour, having shipped the gold and silver, +her Captain found he could not carry the copper change, without which +the silver was almost useless; so the next ship had to take it, and we +missed Navarino. + +Half the Russian fleet were ordered back to Cronstadt, and the +remaining sailed for Milo, the Lord High Admiral sending orders to +Admiral Sir Edward Codrington, Commander-in-Chief of the Mediterranean. +It was whispered afterwards that Sir Edward found a pencil scratch in +the corner of his orders, “Go it, Ned!” + +The Captain and officers took the greatest interest in the interior +fitting as well as that of the outside. Belonging to a ship “going +foreign,” I was allowed to have my examination in navigation a year +earlier. Out of the dozen who went up, I passed second, George +Goldsmith, afterwards my much-esteemed First Lieutenant in the +_Childers_, having passed first. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 31.] + +We had two midshipmen’s berths and places allotted for stores; even for +a midshipman’s pig, which is supposed never to die. The lower-masts and +bowsprit had been replaced, and the ship re-coppered. The Captain wore +a moustache. Having commanded a ship in the Mediterranean on the Greek +station, he fancied petticoat trousers for the crew. The ship was soon +out of dock, and secured alongside the hulk. + +The _Royal Sovereign_ arrived bearing the flag of Lord High Admiral +the Duke of Clarence, Royal standard flying. His Royal Highness had +visited the Russian fleet. We manned the side of the hulk, with the +crew in their petticoat trousers, while the Royal Marines, on a raised +platform, presented arms. The Lord High Admiral came on board later, +and mustered the crew. He did not notice me, although I had red hair +like his Flag-Lieutenant, Hon. J. F. De Roos. + +_Espoir_, Commander F. Greville, sailed with £70,000, newly-coined +money, for the Cape. + +We had a Naval Instructor and a nice set of officers, particularly +among our midshipmen. Among our messmates was a most agreeable and +amusing old salt, one Jonas Coaker, second master. We were not to have +his company, as he had to take charge of a water-tank for Simon’s Bay. +Coaker and I were shipmates later on. + +I could scarcely recognise the interior of my old ship. Our mess +sported plate and table-cloths. I had a Marine servant to myself, who +no longer answered to the name of “_Cheeks_.” + +[Sidenote: Sept. 8.] + +We sailed out of harbour, saluting the flag of Sir Thomas Hardy. Having +taken on board the copper coin for _Espoir’s_ freight, we sailed on +9th, and came to off Cowes. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 16.] + +We hove to in Plymouth Sound; saluted the flag of Sir James Saumarez. +After communicating, proceeded. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 27.] + +Kind readers will have had enough of sea-voyages. + +We arrived at the always agreeable and hospitable Funchall Roads. Usual +salutes. Visits from Russian and Danish Consuls. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 9.] + +At sea. A man fell overboard from the fore topsail yard; picked him up +unhurt. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 10, 11.] + +Came to in Porto Praya Roads, St. Jago, saluting the Portuguese flag. +While watering, a few of us, including surgeon, schoolmaster, and six +of my messmates, also taking with us James Winser, mids’ servant, +landed with our fowling-pieces for a picnic. + +We had a long and enjoyable day. When we returned at sunset, we found +that, on account of slaves, no boats were allowed to quit the shore. +First Lieutenant, being aware of the rule, no boat was sent. We took +up our quarters in a deserted hotel, slept on the bare mud floor, +unpleasantly near swampy ground. + +Watering here was disagreeable, having to raft our casks off with a +swell rolling into the roads. It took us three days. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 14.] + +Sailed on 14th. The usual course was to have crossed the southerly +trade wind on the port tack, but our good Captain, to please Sir +George Cockburn, Second Sea Lord of the Admiralty, attempted the +nearer-looking line off the coast of Africa. Shortly after sailing, all +our picnic-party, with exception of Granville and myself, were down +with fever. Winser, a good lad, our servant, was the first to die. He +was followed by S. H. Crawford, Col. Vol. Our good Captain felt these +deaths. His airy cabin was converted into a hospital. My turn came +later. All officers who owned cabins kindly gave them up. I was put +into Lieutenant Charles Nash’s, who took all the care he could of me. +As was then the practice, they bled me in both arms and shaved my head. +Cockroaches were numerous. There was a sad stillness about the ship, +and I could hear the firing as the last sad ceremony on committing the +bodies of departed messmates to the deep. + +The two seniors of our picnic-party, the surgeon and the schoolmaster, +were the third and fourth to die. After I was down, I sent a message to +my chum, Bridgman Simpson, but it never reached him. + +We lost the following officers: James Napper, surgeon, aged 40 years; +James Hislop,[3] schoolmaster, 28 years; Green West, midshipman, 15 +years 7 months; Henry Stuart Crawford, 15 years; Arthur Bridgman +Simpson, 15 years 7 months; Charles William Thornton, 14 years 3 +months; John Augustus Aldham, 15 years 3 months. They all died between +October 14 and November 15, 1827. A tablet to their memory may be seen +in the garrison chapel, Portsmouth. + +[3] A distinguished Scotch poet. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 17.] + +As might have been expected, water and provisions grew short. Those +who dined with the Captain had to send their allowance of water to his +steward. + +We arrived in Table Bay, _sixty days_ from the Cape de Verds. The +account of our African fever soon spread. Fortunately, my old shipmate, +Lieutenant Christopher Smith, had informed his sister, married to +Puisne Judge Burton, that I was in the _Tweed_; they at once kindly +received me. Oh, the luxury and comfort! I soon forgot that it had been +my turn next to die. The _Tweed_ had to go round to Simon’s Bay. The +kind Captain was glad to leave me in such good quarters. + +As I gained strength I preferred crawling about by myself. There was +a large garrison at the Cape, and officers spoke kindly to the sickly +mid. Living in the country at Wynberg were the Deputy-Adjutant-General, +Colonel and Lady Mary Fitzroy. + +One afternoon when home for tea I found that Lady Mary had visited Mrs. +Burton and claimed me as a relation, and dwelt on the healthiness of +Wynberg in the summer. I did not fancy leaving such kind friends as +the Burtons had been to me in my time of need, but all was arranged +without my being consulted, and that evening a carriage conveyed me +away. + +Lady Mary was kindness itself. There were four children--the only +daughter, a darling child with black eyes, now a happy grandmother, and +long may she remain so! Of the three boys more hereafter. + +Both Colonel and Lady Mary had been at the Duchess of Richmond’s ball +at Brussels on the eve of Waterloo. Fitzroy was in the Blues, and they +accompanied the Duke of Richmond when he went to Canada as Governor, +where I believe His Grace died from the bite of a fox. The then Dowager +Duchess accepted a small collection of birds which I shot, skinned, and +had stuffed while staying with her children at Wynberg. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 25.] + +Christmas Day arrived. Oh, how different from what I expected a month +ago! How bright and cheery was this day’s gathering! + +[Sidenote: 1828. January.] + +My host was a thorough sportsman and a first-rate whip, and a month +after arrival I found myself in the saddle; but being subject to +attacks of intermittent fever, which caused a dismount, some one was +always with me. As I grew stronger, I could sit on a side-saddle with a +rug, and exercise Lady Mary’s own riding-horses. Often when riding over +the usual hunting-ground in the open space at Stillenbach division, +snakes were disturbed. + +Lord Charles Fitzroy Somerset had for many years been Governor of the +Cape, and, as the name naturally implies, there was a vast improvement +in the breed of horses. His name was a household word. + +[Sidenote: Cape.] + +Just before the arrival of the _Tweed_ two Oxfordshire emigrants, +Henry and George Peck, had been wrecked in False Bay. Savings from the +wreck enabled them to erect a shelter at Musemberg, a lucky spot, where +the road between Cape Town and Simon’s Bay turns off at right angles +fifteen miles from one place and seven from the other. + +There was an amusing simplicity about the brothers, and Lord John +Churchill, claiming them as Oxford yeomen, gave a kind help. They +commenced by selling ginger-beer to midshipmen. Lord John had a board +painted, “The Farmers Peck,” which was raised on a post in front. + +After the _Tweed_ left, the officers of the next Commodore’s ship +added an inscription, styling the brothers as “The Gentle Shepherds of +Salisbury Plain.” + + “LIFE’S BUT A JOURNEY. LET US LIVE ON THE ROAD.” SAYS THE + GENTLE SHEPHERD OF SALISBURY PLAIN. + + Multum in parvo, pro bono publico, + Entertainment for men and beasts all of a row, + Lekker kost as much as you please; + Excellent beds without any fleas. + Nos patriam fugimus, Now we are here, + Vivamus; let us live by selling beer, + On donne à boire et à manger ici; + Come in and try it, whoever you be? + +It is now seventy years since our Captain started these honest farmers. +_They_ have departed long since, but the original boards remain. A wing +has been added, stables improved, and he must be a good rider that can +get a Cape hack past without washing his mouth out. + +As I improved in health and strength, my kind hosts would have me name +any messmates I would like to see. Glanville was a sportsman, the only +one of our Cape de Verd picnic that had escaped the African fever; he +was a good boxer as well, and went by the name of “Gully.” Glanville +brought an amusing account of our newly-appointed Irish mid, Coppinger. + +Simon’s Bay, subject to squalls from the adjacent mountains, made it +necessary to keep sheets clear. Sailing off in a cutter, Coppinger was +capsized; seen from the ship, boats were sent, crew saved; but the +difficulty was to catch Coppinger, who, being an expert swimmer and +conspicuous from his cocked hat, which stuck to his head, refused for +some time to be caught. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 29.] + +Ships in Simon’s Bay fired a royal salute in commemoration of the +accession of His Majesty King George IV. + +In the 98th Regiment was Captain Eyre, a sportsman and lion-killer. +Being a brother of the clergyman at Larling, near Quidenham, we became +friends. He got me made a honorary member of their mess; it is only +the last two years that age has obliged me to give up attending their +annual dinner, where I had always received a kind and hearty welcome. +Le Marchant was the best-dressed man in the regiment, and did duty as +Town Major; he was not much of a sportsman, but Eyre persuaded him to +join a lion-shooting party. + +One afternoon, before sundown, they came on a large reed covert which +held lions. Le Marchant, well mounted, kept in the rear, Eyre and +party closing on the lions; one of them broke covert some way off, +and, making a semi-circuit, selected Le Marchant, and had pulled his +horse to the ground. Eyre was just in time at close quarters to send a +bullet into the brain of the lion. Le Marchant was happier afterwards +as Governor of Malta. + +My host used to take me when he visited my Captain for a couple of days +at Simon’s Bay, but kindly bargained for my returning with him. + +Colonel Blake was the Commandant at Simon’s Bay; most kind and +hospitable. He had belonged to a cavalry regiment. When the country was +finally taken over from the Dutch in 1806 he married a Cape lady, and +had a son and a pretty daughter. Mat Blake became a breeder of horses, +and I hope and believe that he is still alive. + +While riding in the open country, it was not unusual to meet the Dutch +waggons drawn by eighteen or twenty bullocks; also sixteen-horse +waggons. I have seen a wild zebra so harnessed, unable to escape, but +made to work, a second driver carrying a lengthy whip. These facts, +though curious to me then, are as well known as the riders in Hyde Park. + +[Sidenote: March.] + +As my acquaintance with the soldiers increased, I became more sporting; +they found I could ride at a lighter weight than any of them--8 stone +6--on Colonel Fane’s horse. I took to tandem-driving; such conveyances +were to be found in Cape Town, and finding Assistant-Surgeon William +Martin, promoted from the _Sparrowhawk_ to the _Tweed_ (in place of my +deceased shipmate Napper), wanting a lift, I undertook the job. + +The road as far as Musemberg was long, but not so bad. At Farmers +Peck’s the horses stopped without consulting me, and Peck junior +suggested they should each have a bottle of ale, which was administered +by removing the bridles and inserting the neck of the bottle in the +horse’s mouth, holding the head, nostrils up. The ale disappeared. It +was evident that it was not their first performance. + +From Peck’s our road lay to the right; it was rough ground, bounded on +the off side by rocks and steep banks; on near side by broken stone +wall with bushes growing between; the sea beyond, which was nearer at +high-water. + +Both horses inclined to run away, which I did not so much mind if I +could keep in the road. It appears that my leader had been accustomed +to work on the near side in a team, and bore in that direction. However +there was but little traffic. + +Martin held the whip while I twisted the leader’s rein round my +forearm, and pulled all I could. Martin, instead of sitting quiet, +began to “touch the leader up.” I told him that my neck was as strong +as his, and chucked the reins on to the shaft horse’s back. The leader +threw up his head, turned sharp to the left, jumped fence and broken +wall. I had an idea, as I lay in the road, of some huge bird passing +in the air. Both horses were on their backs, when I heard a voice from +the bush calling my attention to the upper wheel, the only thing that +could move, spinning round as if it must catch fire. We had to ride +into Simon’s Town--luckily, when it was dark--on the bare backs of the +horses. + +[Sidenote: April 23.] + +Dressed ship in honour of the King’s coronation. Salute annulled in +consequence of the illness of Captain of the _Helicon_. + +[Sidenote: April 27.] + +Commodore Skipsey arrived on board _Maidstone_, 46, to relieve +Commodore Christian. + +[Sidenote: April 28.] + +Funeral of Commander Acland; colours lowered half-mast; a name much +respected in the service. + +[Sidenote: May 10.] + +_Tweed_ inspected by Commodore Skipsey. + +We sailed from Simon’s Bay on May 11, and anchored off the Bell Buoy on +31st. The Buoy was a square air-tight tank; the bell, on a staff in the +centre, kept ringing by the motion of the sea. + +Our anchorage was so near the burial-ground that we could witness the +daily ceremony. The coffin was placed over the prepared grave, and when +that part of the beautiful service, “Earth to earth,” was said, a bolt +was drawn; the body fell into its last resting-place, and the coffin +went back for its next passenger. + +[Sidenote: June 1.] + +Port Louis had a snug inner harbour close to the town. The channel from +the Bell Buoy was over thirty cables long; we had to warp up. + +A light coir rope stopped to bent flukes of small anchors; about three +ships’ lengths apart. Negro divers released the stops as the warping +ship approached. In a man-of-war it was a run from end to end. + +_Espoir_, 10, Commander Henry F. Greville, arrived. + +[Sidenote: June 17.] + +The _Castle Huntley_, a fine East Indiaman, arrived with the +newly-appointed Governor-General, Hon. Sir Charles Colville, on board, +which the worthy Captain, Thomas Dunkin, thought entitled him to +display at his main topgallant masthead the Union Jack--a flag, afloat, +representing an Admiral of the Fleet. The Captain did not approve of +being obliged to haul it down, and commenced a long correspondence +with “powers that be” at home. This, however, never interfered with +the cordial good-feeling which existed between our Chief and the two +gallant Governors. + +It was arranged with Lord John Churchill that _Tweed_ should take Sir +Lowry Cole to the Cape of Good Hope, to which he had been appointed as +Governor: the staff was large, and required a certain time for us to +prepare. + +[Sidenote: Jane 25.] + +General Sir Lowry Cole paid his farewell visit as Governor, and +was received with all due honours. In Sir Lowry we had another of +Wellington’s Peninsular heroes, with a far longer record than a +midshipman’s log has room for. His Excellency was not at the battle of +Waterloo, because on that day he married Lady Frances, daughter of Lord +Malmesbury, the lady who was so kind to us youngsters. The honeymoon +must have been of short duration, as Sir Lowry rejoined his old chief +at the occupation of Paris. + +[Illustration: _View from Réduit._] + +The children were charming. Had we belonged to the family, we could +not have been treated with greater kindness. Horses and ponies at +Government House, Port Louis, as well as at a charming house, Le +Réduit, which my friend Larking describes as a fine old French château, +built by Labourdoniere when Governor of the island. It stands in lovely +wooded grounds, several hundred acres in extent, triangular-shaped. Two +rivers run through deep ravines and form the sides of a triangle. They +meet at the apex, which is called Bout au Monde--the haunt of hundreds +of monkeys. + +[Sidenote: July 22.] + +Arrived _Sparrowhawk_, 18, Commander James Polkinghorne. + +[Sidenote: July 23.] + +The necessary number of captains being present, I was examined as to +my qualifications in seamanship, having already passed for navigation +before leaving England. The captains were not hard on me; the passing +certificates were made out in triplicate to be sent to the Admiralty. +The captains kindly signed an extra one, which I sent to my father. +From this day I ceased to be a midshipman, and became a mate in His +Majesty’s Navy. + +There was a huge tortoise in the grounds of Government House at Port +Louis. It could move with six men on its back, three a side, standing +on edge of its shell, holding hands across. On inquiry from Mr. +Robinson, a late resident and relative of mine, I found there had been +two of these animals introduced into the island by the French, and +they were on the list of Ordnance stores taken over by the British on +the evacuation. The entry was certified by Commissary-General Jago in +1810. They were allowed to stroll about, but were seldom met or even +seen together. This big one was generally to be found in the R.A. mess +compound. I understand that in 1861 a young officer fired a revolver at +it. The bullet made a dent on the shell, but did not penetrate. The +mark was still visible in 1884. The tortoise often disappeared, at one +time for a whole month, but returned of its own accord. It was easily +driven by tapping on the back and hind-legs with a small rattan. + +[Illustration: _A Colossal Tortoise._] + +In the garrison were the 29th Regiment, commanded by a Waterloo +hero, Lieutenant-Colonel Simpson; the 99th, known amongst the French +population as the “Neuf Neuf,” Lieutenant-Colonel Hardinge; and 82nd, +Lieutenant-Colonel Balfour, besides Engineers and Artillery. + +Society was charming. In addition to our garrison ladies, the French, +then as now, joined in all festivities. I had a chum, Phillpotts, +in the 29th, the same height as myself, and the same lady kindly +patronised us both; but hoping to cut my friend out, I thought to +improve myself by taking lessons in dancing. The next day, when I +arrived at Monsieur Longville’s, the French artist, I found Phillpotts +already there! + +[Sidenote: July 28.] + +_Champion_, 18, arrived from India in command of my much-esteemed +kinsman, George Delmé. On board, too, was my brother Tom, who had left +the Naval College early in 1827, and went to India in the _Success_, +where Admiral Sir William Hall Gage transferred him to the _Champion_. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 18.] + +We embarked Sir Lowry Cole and family, as well as a large staff, with +all due honours, and sailed immediately, ships and forts cheering as +we passed. Colonel Wade, Military Secretary, was a great favourite. +His son in the 98th, a linguist who afterwards made himself master of +the Chinese language, with its 500 letters, was afterwards Sir Thomas +Wade, our Minister at Peking. Captain During, A.D.C., Dr. Dyce, Rev. +A. M. Canton, and although last not least, Kerr Baillie Hamilton. In +addition to these was Lady Frances Cole and the charming children. + +[Illustration: _Sir Lowry Cole._] + +Our Captain himself was a _bon-vivant_. It delighted him to entertain +so good a judge as Sir Lowry. He had also heard of the remark made by +Wellington, while in winter-quarters after Salamanca, to a new-comer in +camp: “Cole gives the best dinners; Hill the next; mine are no great +things; but Beresford’s and Picton’s are very bad indeed.” + +The party was large, and food drawing to an end. The evening before +arrival at Simon’s Bay there had been a dish of roast guinea-fowls; +one of which was set aside for the Governor’s breakfast and placed in +a safe that hung over the hatchway, abreast of the mids’ berth, under +the charge of the cabin-door sentry. Now, when the sentry went forward +to strike eight bells, the safe door being partially open, a hungry +mid conveyed the tempting bird to his mess-table, where it disappeared +without “fork and knife or noise or strife.” + +After the landing of the Governor came the painful inquiry, “Who stole +the guinea-fowl?” Of course, nobody did, and our leave was confined to +Simon’s Bay. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 7.] + +We arrived in Simon’s Bay, and following day landed the Governor, Sir +Lowry Cole, with all due honours. + +[Illustration: _The Device of Jonas Coaker._] + +At Simon’s Bay we found that Jonas Coaker had arrived with his +schooner-rigged tank. After crossing the “Line” on his way out, he +had been becalmed for some hours, when a rakish-looking schooner, +that might have been slaver or pirate--most likely both--hove in +sight, bringing a light breeze up. Now, Jonas, being unarmed, had no +wish to communicate. He assembled his crew, dressed in white frocks +and trousers, and having unshipped the cook’s funnel, which was of +polished brass, mounted it on an impromptu carriage, and got the muzzle +pointed towards the stranger, with the crew ranged on each side, while +he paraded the deck in cocked hat and sidearms. He had also a mid +and second master. The stranger got near enough to make out that the +schooner’s sails were not of cotton; she in studding sails, and, much +to Jonas’s relief, hauled to the wind. + +Jonas was full of information. On arriving in Simon’s Bay, he, in +answer to inquiries of his young officers, how the Cape sheep came +to have such broad, flat tails, explained that it arose from their +invariably feeding uphill! + +[Sidenote: Sept. 24.] + +Jonas Coaker commenced building a stone pier and breakwater from the +bottom of the Commodore’s garden. With a small rock in position and +material at hand, it is a wonder it was not thought of before. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 20.] + +The _Undaunted_, 46, Captain Augustus Clifford, C.B., arrived with Lord +William Cavendish-Bentinck, appointed Governor-General of India. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 5.] + +Fired a royal salute in commemoration of the discovery of the Gunpowder +Plot. + +[Sidenote: Dec.] + +Leave of so many being stopped, there were an unusual number of mids in +Simon’s Bay, which of course made the place unusually lively. Colonel +Blake, the kind Commandant, entertained most hospitably, as did Mr. +Osmond, better known as “King John.” Colonel Blake had for years been +annoyed by baboons which came down from the mountain and stole his +figs. After a while he caught one, flogged, and let it go. He lost no +more figs. + +Time slipped away. Christmas was drawing near, and kind invitations +came from numerous friends--the Stolls, Cloetes, Lorentz, Ebdens, and +others. A kind letter from Lady Mary Fitzroy to our Captain caused +leave to be given to any but the actual perpetrator. Now, as I had the +morning watch, and had not, at the time of the guinea-fowl’s escape, +been relieved, Christmas Day found myself with that bright and happy +family, the Fitzroys. + +[Sidenote: 1829. January.] + +After a while I had a latch-key, and a room adjoining the entrance; +became an honorary member of the 98th mess. I invested in a couple of +horses that I could not afford, and deluded a messmate, young Armytage, +into doing the same. He was a lighter weight than myself, and could +ride well. Glanville kept a fast horse with a bangtail. He was older +and a more experienced rider, and had also learnt the noble art of +self-defence. + +One day, at Morrison’s Hotel, I heard a man requesting to be taken to +Major Keppel. This proved to be the famous blind traveller, Joseph +Holman. He had heard my voice, and took it for that of his friend, my +brother, who was then in England. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 15.] + +Commodore Schomberg hoisted his broad pendant, which was saluted by us. + +In the midst of our little gaieties _Tweed_ was ordered to the +Mauritius. Our kind Captain allowed Glanville and self each to take a +horse, as we could there get rid of them to advantage. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 7.] + +We sailed. Showed colours to vessels in St. Paul’s Roads, Bourbon. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 10-Mar. 29.] + +Arrived Port Louis, Mauritius. The Governor, Hon. Sir Charles Colville, +and family, continued the same kind hospitality as their predecessors. +I have often regretted our inability to return in any way their +kindness. + +A mid’s was thought a hard life, but on active service what had not +these gallant soldiers gone through? I had a brother, a youngster, at +Waterloo, who, for many years in the latter part of his life, tried to +recount various incidents of that day. Sir Charles Colville’s division +appears to have been placed at Hal, on the extreme right of the British +army, Wellington believing that was the point on which Napoleon was +advancing. The General made up for it by the gallant manner in which he +stormed and captured Cambrai, the last French fort to surrender. + +[Sidenote: April.] + +Races took place, which we enjoyed. Our sailor horses were entered for +anything that could afford sport. Glanville’s bangtail was a clever +horse: won everything he ran for. Armytage rode a light weight for the +garrison with success. I rode a couple, but my horse had not time to be +properly trained; afterwards he bolted, rolled over the rails, nearly +killed an Irish jockey; but I got double what he cost me. Glanville did +better still. + +[Sidenote: April 20.] + +Mail arriving, was disappointed to find that my passing certificates +had been returned by some smart Admiralty clerk for “Mr. Keppel’s +signature.” + +[Sidenote: May 3.] + +Sailed for the Cape; _Espoir_ in co. + +[Sidenote: May 21.] + +Arrived in Simon’s Bay. Many kind friends came on board; Johnnie Stoll, +of the _Maidstone_, was the first to inform me that I was promoted. I +could scarcely believe it, as my passing certificates had been returned +to me, at the Mauritius, for signature. However, my Lieutenant’s +commission was in the Commodore’s office. + +This was indeed an unexpected pleasure, enough to turn the brain of an +older head. Sapient resolves no longer to play the fool! I now held +the rank equivalent to that of a Captain in the army. I was almost +ashamed of the congratulations of so many of my seniors. + +The Commodore, Schomburg, was also kind. I found him just as he had +finished a long correspondence with the Admiralty about the _Castle +Huntley_, Indiaman, while she was at the Mauritius, with these words: + +“I cannot conclude without regretting that His Majesty’s Orders in +Council seem still but imperfectly understood by many branches of the +civil, military, and merchant services”--words as applicable near +seventy years after. + +With my dear Captain I was indeed sorry to part: it seemed as if I +had been with him years. His kindness and anxiety when so many of us +were down with fever endeared him to all, especially myself, the only +survivor of the picnic party. + +I went off to receive further congratulations from my kind friends the +Fitzroys, who had done so much to restore me to health and strength. + +[Sidenote: June 10.] + +The _Rainbow_, 28, Captain Hon. Henry Rous, arrived from the East +Indian Station, so full of invalids and other passengers there was no +room for me, but the Captain had the will and soon found the way. A cot +was hung on the starboard side of the aft-deck. In itself a luxury: and +being in sight of the cabin-door sentry, no chance of my lanyard being +cut by a horrid midshipman; for the rest, I was the Captain’s guest. + +After taking leave of many kind friends, I thought it right to show +my new shipmates how the ropes lead about Cape Town. There were races +going on, at one of which my chum Whaley Armytage got his arm broken. +There was also a dignity ball to come off, more refined, but not better +fun, than those in the West Indies. Leave-taking over and Armytage +convalescent, with his arm in a sling, I conveyed him to Simon’s Bay in +a tandem. We had the usual rest and refreshment at Farmers Peck’s. + +The tide happening to be out when we reached Fishhook Bay, I turned my +leader’s head into the cutting that had been made in the rock, for the +accommodation of led horses. On one side was the perpendicular cliff, +on the other a drop of between thirty and forty feet on to rocks and +sea. There was nothing left for my leader but to go on, with shafts +and wheeler close upon him. We arrived safe at the bottom. Further on +met the Resident, Colonel Blake, riding with his daughter. He would +not credit my account, and, as the tide was out, rode on to find the +impression of wheels, I having booked his four to one. + +Forty years after, and maybe does now, the spot bore the name of +“Keppel’s Folly.” + +[Illustration: _Keppel’s Folly._] + +[Sidenote: June 15.] + +We sailed for England. The _Rainbow_ had been on the Australian and New +Zealand stations, which accounted for my seeing, when dining with my +kind host, on removal of the dish-cover, the tattooed head of a Maori +Chief. + +The ship was full of curios: game-cocks secured by the leg to alternate +gun-carriages on main-deck. There were two Bengal tiger whelps, a +ferocious-looking bull-dog as gentle as a lamb, and a monkey free to go +where he chose. + +After evening quarters, a sail was spread on the forecastle, where some +interesting sparring took place. In the cabin, I had each forenoon a +lesson in backgammon, with the Captain, at the cost of a shilling per +day. Among invalids was a Lieutenant, Jack Crosbie, who quarrelled with +me because I made a remark about his sister in reply to one he made +about me. I did not know then that he _had_ a sister, although he had +five, all uncommonly good-looking--I married one! + +[Sidenote: June 25.] + +Arrived off St. Helena. Our Captain had served in one of the ships that +had guarded the island during the residence of the great Napoleon. His +Imperial Majesty had died May 5, 1821, and his remains rested in a spot +chosen by himself--a garden at the foot of a deep ravine; the grave, +between two willow-trees, close to a fountain, from which he had during +life been specially supplied. To visit the spot with the Captain was a +pleasant and interesting walk. + +[Illustration: _Napoleon’s Grave._] + +[Sidenote: July 2.] + +Called at Ascension, then little better than a huge cinder; there was a +small spring some seven miles distant. Its redeeming point was the kind +manner in which the finest turtle landed to deposit their eggs on the +numerous sanded inlets; this they preferred doing on bright moonshiny +nights, never dreaming that they were being watched. And having covered +with sand as many or more than a hundred luscious eggs, the size +and shape of a large orange, left them for the sun to hatch. Their +own tracks carefully sprinkled with sand, on returning to the briny +deep, they little thought they were to be turned on their backs, above +high-water mark, by huge Royal Marines, there to await passage to the +table of the First Lord of the Admiralty or his friends! Of course, the +male turtle is never foolish enough to land if he knows of it. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 8] + +On our reaching soundings in the chops of the Channel, Captain Rous +bought a bag of potatoes from a pilot boat; and having a live pig still +left, he determined on a feast, and so make up my quarrel with Crosbie. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 10.] + +We arrived at Spithead, after the pleasantest voyage I ever made. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +ENGLAND + + +[Sidenote: 1829. Aug. 12.] + +Goodwood Races being due, I brought up at the “Keppel’s Head,” and let +my kinsman, Henry Delmé, at Cams (a mansion at the head of Portsmouth +Harbour), know that I was ready for a seat on his drag. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 13.] + +On the 13th I intercepted the yellow coach at Cosham, and had my +portmanteau placed in the boot. Mrs. Delmé was on the box, sitting +behind the same four greys I recollected so well. Fanny Delmé and Mrs. +Delmé Radcliffe inside, George Delmé and other friends outside. + +Such a day! Everything lovely. On the course I was soon spotted by +Captain Rous. Not the enclosure or any part of the course that I had +not access to. Jack Crosbie took me to his father, a smart old soldier +in a neat phaeton, with a pretty daughter by his side. I was invited +to Watergate, and forgot all previous engagements. Portmanteau shifted +from the drag; friends going back had to order my six newly-made +shirts, with cambric front and frills, to be sent after me! + +There was another open Crosbie carriage, from which four posters were +being removed. Two handsome girls got out, attended by same number of +brothers, who saw them into the grand stand, but no further. + +I recognised many of the Goodwood party, whom I came to know better +later on. There was room for me in the phaeton, with a pleasant drive +of twelve miles across the Sussex Downs to Watergate. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 15.] + +The last day of the races appeared much too soon. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 18.] + +I was conveyed to Petersfield, where I caught the Portsmouth +“Regulator,” and so to London. A night with my brother-in-law, +Stephenson, and sister Mary, in Arlington Street. In the morning on by +Norwich “Telegraph” to Larlingford and Quidenham. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 29.] + +My dear father’s large family told heavily; the Hall was closed, and he +was living in the Parsonage. + +At end of the month the kind Duke of Sussex took me with him to Kinmel, +followed by Charlie Gore, his aunt Lady Cæcilia Underwood, and her +brother, Captain Gore, R.N., and others. + +[Sidenote: Sept.] + +After dinner His Royal Highness smoked the best tobacco, through a +convenient boxwood mouth-piece, which I had charge of. + +We, the staff, in the evening wore green coats, with his Royal +Highness’s buttons, buff cloth waistcoats, and trousers. + +One afternoon, luckily an hour before dinner-time, I sat on the tail +of my dress-coat; in the pocket was the cigar-holder, shortened by a +quarter of an inch. Colonel Hughes was a clever turner. I ran to him in +my trouble, and he turned what was left so cleverly that no one could +detect it was not new. I watched His Royal Highness changing the holder +in his mouth; he never found out the difference, and I took care that +his black page did not either. + +Sir Richard Bulkeley, who married the eldest daughter of Colonel and +Mrs. Hughes in May 1828, lost her within a year; so we were very quiet. +I drove with him in his mail phaeton several trips to Baron Hill at +Beaumaris. + +I was much amused by Welsh ways. Farming couples came to market on the +same horse. Women wore tall, pointed hats. + +Another old-fashioned house, Fryars, belonged to Bulkeley’s parents, +Sir Robert and Lady Williams. The younger ladies, and their governess, +occupied an adjoining building, St. Margaret’s, into which I was +introduced walking on my hands! + +[Illustration: _At St. Margaret’s._] + +It was a cheery, happy family. We met in different parts later on. +Baron Hill was burnt down May 1836. + +The Menai Suspension Bridge was still a curiosity--the foundation laid +in 1819, first chain, 1825; when a sailor walked across, and on which +a shoemaker, sitting across, completed a pair of boots. The general +opening took place early in 1826. + +My friend Charles Paget, in command of the _Procris_, 16, was the first +man-of-war, and, I believe, the last, that sailed through. + +There was a family of Williams, near neighbours, at Craig-y-Don. Tom +Williams had two yachts, the _Hussar_ and _Gazelle_. The _Hussar_ +was a rakish-looking schooner, but he spoilt her in trying to +make her a man-of-war brig like Paget’s _Procris_. He had capital +shooting--hanging woods on bank of the Menai Straits. I returned there +in later years. + +There was also a near neighbour to Kinmel, Sir John Williams, at +Boddlewyddlam. He, too, had a pretty daughter, but the Welsh women were +all charming. + +From Kinmel I went with His Royal Highness a short visit to Lord +Ferrars at Ashby-de-la-Zouch. I never saw any one take so much snuff. + +[Sidenote: October.] + +It was end of October when I got back to London, but the big town was +always gay. “Black-eyed Susan,” at the Surrey, was drawing crowds of +both sexes to cry. But there was an entertainment for a select few, +which I fancied my brother-in-law Stephenson was the life of--“The +Sublime Society of Beefsteaks”; the time, too, of meeting suited me. I +venture to state a few particulars, although far from the wide and open +sea. + +There have been, and still are, many Beefsteak Clubs, but the “Sublime +Society” was founded in 1735 by Henry Rich, the famous harlequin. It +consisted of twenty-four members. Among the rules were: + + “Beefsteaks shall be the only meat. + + “Broiling begins at two of the clock; table-cloth removed at + three of the clock. + + “Any wagers lost to be paid to the treasurer. + + “Any member absenting himself three successive days of meeting, + unless excused by a majority, shall be expelled. + + “A member allowed one guest, had, if he brought a second, to + borrow a name. + + “The society consists of a president, a vice-president, a + bishop, a recorder, a boots.” + +The meetings generally broke up in time for the theatres. + +In addition to the president’s chair, which was carved in oak, with +a gridiron and motto, “Beef and Liberty” (this chair was bought at +Christie’s in 1867 for H.R.H. the Prince of Wales), each member had a +carved chair with crest and motto. + +Among members I see names of Hogarth and Sandwich. Later the number of +members was increased. + +Following address presented with a silver cigar-case, which bore the +inscription:-- + + “That he may keep us in his mind who lives in our hearts, this + case is presented to our brother Henry Frederick Stephenson, by + the hand of his Royal brother, the Duke of Sussex, in his and + our names, in grateful remembrance of his services. December 4, + 1824. + + Charles Morris. + John Richards. + Richard Wilson. + His Royal Highness the Duke of Sussex. + Samuel James Arnold. + William Linley. + W. J. Denison, M.P. + Henry Brougham (Lord High Chancellor). + Arthur Morris. + Thomas Lewin. + Sir Matthew Wood, M.P. + General Sir Ronald Ferguson, M.P. + William Henry Whitbread, M.P. + James Lonsdale. + Earl of Suffolk. + Honble. Admiral G. Dundas. + W. P. Honeywood. + Colonel Thomas Wildman. + Robert Chaloner. + The Duke of Leinster. + Sir John Cam Hobhouse, M.P. (Lord Broughton).” + +During visits to the Beefsteak Club I made acquaintances which lasted +many years. + +[Sidenote: October, November.] + +I naturally clung to T. P. Cooke; after a while I drew from him more +about himself. He was the son of a doctor, born in 1786; ten years +after he was in the _Brazen_, 26, at the siege of Toulon, and at +thirteen years of age was at the battle of St. Vincent. + +In 1804 he played “Nelson” at Astley’s. I wonder if Nelson ever saw +him. After playing in “Black-eyed Susan” a hundred times at the Surrey, +he went to Covent Garden, where I found him when I returned from sea. +I was present at his last performance on the stage as “William.” + +Vauxhall was another agreeable meet; we generally went there by boat. +The Surrey Theatre was same side of the water, where “Black-eyed Susan” +was playing. + +[Sidenote: November.] + +Sir Richard Bulkeley had kindly offered me the use of his stud at +Melton. + +Wishing to see Edward Digby, now quartered with the 9th Lancers, I +booked for Nottingham instead of Leicester. Digby found me quarters in +barracks. The 9th was then, and always has been, a smart regiment, and +my friend, just of age, was, in his stable costume, as fine a specimen +of a man as could well be seen. + +Among the good fellows there were Captain Porter, Lieutenant Hope +Grant, and Cornet Jack Spalding, the greatest dandy I ever saw, and +when William IV. shaved the cavalry he left his pet regiment, rather +than part with his moustache. + +[Sidenote: November, December.] + +During my stay in Nottingham a ball took place, which, owing to the +uniform of the Lancers and the pink coats of hunting men, was a much +more brilliant affair than I had been accustomed to. I was astonished +at the arrival in the middle of the dancing of my friend Wildman, his +wife and sister, from Newstead. They at once decided, as there was no +hunting, I must return with them. Snow falling, they took an early +departure, before midnight. + +At 2 A.M. I followed in what was called a “yellow bounder”--a light +carriage on four wheels, without a coach-box, C-springs, and post-boy +riding. I came up with the Wildman coach half-way, snowed up. It was +agreed that I should go with them, and my pair as leaders to their +four. + +It took us eight hours to reach Newstead Abbey. We were snowed up +for some weeks, but I did not care. With Mrs. Wildman’s sister, Miss +Preisig, I valsed the evenings away. + +[Sidenote: 1830. January.] + +However, letters reached at last, bringing my appointment to the +_Galatea_. + +I managed to catch the mail at Leicester. It was freezing sharp, and +only one outside place. Luckily, I found a friend, Dr. Pettigrew, who +was attached to the household of the Duke of Sussex. But for him I +think I should have died. Myself fortified with cloaks and rugs, and +the doctor with lozenges, we arrived the following morning at the Bull +Inn, Aldgate. I subsequently found there was more pain in thawing than +being frozen. + +My kind friend thrust me into a hackney coach, with all the straw he +could collect from the inn. I started, jolting over the rough pavement, +for my grandmother’s residence, 10 Berkeley Square. Restoring animation +was greater pain than that of freezing, but, being close to Gunter’s, +restoratives were easily had. + +[Illustration: _Nearly frozen._] + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +THE _GALATEA_ + + +[Sidenote: 1830. Portsmouth. Feb. 11, March 6.] + +Joined _Galatea_, one of the Channel Squadron, Captain Charles Napier, +C.B. + +Joined Lieutenant Alexander Cotton, in place of Lieutenant F. V. Cotton. + +[Sidenote: March 11.] + +We left Spithead to go to assistance of the _Wolf_, on shore at back of +Isle of Wight: with our boats, and assistance of dockyard lighters, she +was got off during afternoon of following day. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 12.] + +We returned through the Needles: in running for Spithead with signal +flying, “_Wolf_ saved,” we grounded on the Middle Bank. Still floated +however with rising tide. + +[Sidenote: April 5.] + +Weighed and ran through Needles Passage; next day becalmed; shipped +paddles, and worked them into Torbay. Sailed following day. + +[Sidenote: April 9.] + +Plymouth Sound. Saluted the flag of Earl of Northesk. + +[Sidenote: June 3.] + +On a fine day in June we performed one of those feats that astonished +our shore-going friends. On the 3rd at 3 A.M. the _Galatea_ was lying +at Spithead with royal yards across, and ready for sea. By noon she was +stripped to her gantlings, and the service on the collars of her lower +rigging was repaired. By 7 P.M. she was re-rigged and decks cleared, +supposed to be ready for sea. + +[Sidenote: June 27.] + +Hoisted colours half-mast on the death of His Majesty George IV. + +[Sidenote: June 28.] + +Yards manned, and a double royal salute fired on the accession of King +William IV. + +[Sidenote: July 15.] + +Fired thirty minute-guns on the interment of His late Majesty George IV. + +[Sidenote: July 25.] + +While off Brighton people visited the ship; mine was by way of being +the show cabin. I was struck by the appearance of a remarkably handsome +couple--alas! now no more. It was some time after that I found out they +were the parents of the present Admiral Heneage and his sister the +Countess of Essex. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 16.] + +On my father acquainting the king that he had three good horses for +the Goodwood Cup, asked by which horse His Majesty wished to win. “Win +by all three,” said the king. The horses came in in following manner: +Fleur de Lis, 1, Zingaree, 2, and Colonel, 3. + +Our Captain had a hobby, which was that he could propel a ship with +paddles which could be easily fixed or withdrawn from a ship’s side. +They were to be propelled by iron winch-handles attached to stanchions +on either side of the main-deck. They did not succeed against the +slightest head-wind. He was much chaffed by the way he spelt the word +“winches” in his semi-official despatch to the Admiralty, which, he +said, “only required stout hands to lay into them.” + +In those days any peer visiting a man-of-war was entitled to a salute. +It was my afternoon watch, when a boat from Ryde came alongside with a +party, which turned out to be Earl Spencer; no name better known or +more respected. On finding that the Captain was on shore, he inquired +if there was not a Lieutenant Keppel in the ship. Nothing could have +been kinder; he wanted to take me on shore with him to dine, but I +happened to be the senior officer in charge. I had the honour of +manning yards, and firing the last salute of many his lordship had had. + +I need not say that I was relieved in ample time to enjoy an excellent +dinner. Lady Spencer, who was equally fond of the Navy, would have +taken care of me, but I had an appointment that night on the top +of Portsdown, where the famous fair was going on, having secured a +four-oared boat to cross the water, and a horse to take me to the hill. + +Having two days’ leave, I drove a Gosport gig to Bishopstoke to visit +my worthy kinsman, Tom Garnier, Dean of Winchester. When I got back, +_Galatea_ had sailed for Lisbon. I was sorry; I wanted to see the place +I had heard so much of from my Portuguese schoolfellows, Alvaro Lopes +Pereira and Francisco Nunes Vizieu. The only thing they had to give me +an idea of the magnificence of Lisbon was an old print of the great +earthquake, which looked to me as if the churches and other buildings +were on a cruise in the Bay of Biscay. + +Glanville was promoted from _Tweed_ and appointed to _Pallas_ (Captain +Lord Adolphus Fitz-Clarence), likewise of the Channel Squadron. A party +of us, Frank Scott, George Wodehouse, and self, got the then famous Ned +Neal from London to teach us the noble art of self-defence. We three +had lodgings in St. Thomas’s Street; Glanville was an experienced hand, +but took an interest in our training: there were many to instruct, and +Neal had his hands full. + +Hands from the dockyard, after work, were rude, pushing us off the +pavement. However, science began to tell, but with me the wrong way. +Broken nose, upper lip twice cut then, and sewn up. After dark, parties +sallied forth from the “Keppel’s Head.” Both sides met at the Mill Dam, +a sort of neutral ground where constables could not interfere without +writs from both sides. + +Tandems, too, were equal to the demand; one of us would drive Mr. Neal, +others acting as convoy as far as Chichester, and there entertain him. +On the whole, our pugilistic meets were conducted quietly; the dockyard +maties treated us more respectfully. In addition to self-defence we had +lessons in driving. + +I used to pay half a guinea to Scarlett for being allowed the box-seat, +and to hold the heavy heads of seven or eight teams between Portsmouth +and London. The whip I learned to handle, but after a couple of stages +my arm ached and straightened. As for driving, the horses guided +themselves, and stopped of their own accord within an inch of where +they had to change. + +Before the winter set in, Glanville and I determined to entertain Mr. +Ned Neal to a dinner at a respectable house called the Castle Tavern, +Holborn, kept by Mr. Thomas Winter, better known in the pugilistic +world as “Tom Spring.” I think we sat down twenty-two: nothing could +be more decorous. The “whips” exceeded the pugilists in number, but +harmony prevailed. Glanville had Faulkner, of the Rocket, and Tom +Spring, on his right and left, while I had Ned Neal, and the more +magnificent Mr. Scarlett, who was dressed in his usual drab breeches +and white stockings, neat shoes--I suppose he thought tops looked +too shoppy--buff vest, a voluminous white choker over a large plaited +frill. In addition, a flower-garden in the capacious breast of a blue +frock--all for the honour of the Portsmouth “Regulator.” There was +nothing to come near him. Mr. Neal was similar in the lower dress, but +wore a blue tie with small white spots--his own colours. I brought a +great favourite in T. P. Cooke. + +The company for some time was very decorous. Ale enough to float a +jolly-boat, topped up with port wine for loyal toasts. Comic songs +finished the evening. Later, the idea of a naval entertainment drew a +cheery crowd outside the Castle Tavern. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 10.] + +_Galatea_ returned from Lisbon. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 14.] + +The Right Hon. John Wilson Croker visited the ship and inspected +paddles. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 4.] + +A garbled account of an accident which befell Lieutenant A. Cotton and +myself, prior to our departure for the West Indies, was published on +October 4 in the local paper. + +What really happened was this: Cotton and self, leave up, had to return +on board. He had just taken leave of his parents at the George Hotel. +It was blowing fresh from the south; ebb-tide. We had hired one of the +Isle of Wight wherries. The Poole Packet, a large sailing cutter bound +same way, caught us at entrance of the harbour. There being no room +to spare, our helms were put down at the same time. The end of the +packet’s bowsprit, catching our wherry’s stern, lifted her end over end. + +Being the lightest, I was sent farthest, which enabled me to clasp +the end of the cutter’s bowsprit as she dipped. I held on like grim +death, the wind preventing my voice being heard. Every plunge in the +necessarily short tacks ducked me under water. + +[Illustration: _The Poole Packet._] + +It was only when outside, and clear of the strength of the tide, that +one of the crew discovered and hauled me in. Well outside, we hailed a +man-of-war cutter; I got landed at the Point to look after my friend. +Boats having been at hand, no lives were lost. I found Billy spread out +on a table in a public-house, but, having imbibed something more to his +taste than salt water, he did not recognise me. I hurried off to let +his parents know he was safe. They had, however, left for Cambridge, +comfortably seated behind two pairs of posters. + +We sailed that afternoon for Dover, returning to Spithead on the 10th. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 14.] + +We embarked Governor Sir John Hill and suite for passage to St. +Vincent. Received also smugglers for West Indian station. + +A brother officer of mine once told a high personage that if the +service had its due the name of Keppel would not now be on the Navy +List. I perfectly agree with my friend, and should he take the trouble +to finish this chapter, he will be convinced how right he was. He has a +charming wife, and gives very good dinners. I have now, as I write, an +invitation to one. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 17.] + +On nearing the Tropic we were visited by Neptune, when much the same +eccentricities were performed as described in my account of the _Tweed_ +when crossing the “Line.” + +A spare topsail was lowered on to the main-deck, the leach-ropes +secured to coamings on upper deck, which when filled with water made +a respectable pond. It was my morning watch. I was contemplating this +bath, when one of the youngsters informed me that the Captain, who had +just come on deck, intended to push me in. Leaning over with hands on +my knees, I felt the sudden pressure on my right shoulder, which gave +way, and the Captain losing his balance, went in instead of me, his +shoes the last of him to disappear. + +[Sidenote: 1831. Jan. 7.] + +Arrived at Barbadoes. + +In those days there were no facilities for watering; we had to hoist +our boom-boats, place in them water-casks which were filled at the most +convenient place to be found; generally near some stream running to the +sea. + +This was the case at Barbadoes. The Second Master was sent with the +party. Late in the morning, the officer of the watch, thinking it time +a turn of water should be on its way, observed that not only were the +boats empty, but the crew were rolling about the beach. An officer +and party of marines were sent to bring them off. It was past the +dinner-hour, and Collier, the First Lieutenant, naturally much put out. + +Two o’clock was our gunroom hour. Just as I had sat down, a mid +informed me that I was required to go for a turn of water. I was at +once, in cocked hat and side-arms, on deck. + +I told Collier that, if he had consulted me, I could have informed him +that the tempting-looking green cocoanuts always tasted strong of new +rum. As it was, I had to go without my dinner. Not another word passed +between us. + +Everything went smoothly. In an unusually short time I got back. The +Captain was on deck; I saw him coming, and thought he was going to +compliment me on the smart manner in which my turn of water had been +brought off. He always addressed me in broad Scotch, and began with: + +“Meester Karpel, I understand that ye refused to gang for water when +ordered by the _Firrst_ Leaftenant.” + +I was riled and hungry, and replied that if the First Lieutenant had +told him that, he had told an untruth. + +Old Charlie was furious (I think he had had luncheon), ordered me to +my cabin, and to consider myself under close arrest, to be tried by +court-martial. + +I was grieved and hurt, and brooded over my trouble as I took my +solitary meal. I felt, too, for Collier, who was a zealous and good +officer. I had many friends to condole with me--among others, a man +named Lane, whom I had known at Portsmouth; but I think he took his tea +a little too strong, and left our service. He was now mate of a fine +West Indiaman lying in the roads. + +After a chat about old times, he supposed he could do nothing for me. +In reply, I thought he was the only person who _could_ do anything. + +There were four men-of-war in the roads--_Mersey_, 26; _Ranger_, 28; +_Shannon_, 46--which ensured a dignity ball I meant to attend. + +I proposed that at 10 P.M. my friend should have a small boat under the +starboard bow of the _Galatea_, with one hand only to land me, as well +as to take me off when I wanted. + +Lane knew remonstrance was useless. After the Master-at-Arms had looked +into my cabin at 10 P.M., and reported “Prisoner safe” to the officer +of the watch, I changed into white frock and trousers, put clothes +bag between the sheets, my shoes outside to be cleaned, passed the +gunroom door sentry as an officer’s servant, bumped under the hammocks +on starboard side of the lower deck, up the fore ladder, through +the bow-port, dropped into my boat, was up the wooden steps of the +landing-place; then there was “such a getting upstairs and a playing +of the fiddle.” I was in the giddy throng doing the double shuffle +opposite a dark beauty, when the name of Old Charlie was called out. + +He was not difficult to spot. He threw his coat and epaulettes into a +corner, and was at once performing the Scotch shuffle in my set; in +crossing over for the change, I was collared by my shipmates and pushed +out. + +[Illustration: _The Dignity Ball._] + +I thought to retrace my steps, when on the landing, which was well +lighted, who should I run against but Captain George Courtney, of the +_Mersey_, with whom Napier had dined! He recognised me in spite of my +disguise. I had known him as the friend of my late kind Captain, Lord +John Churchill. He accosted me with: + +“Your name’s Keppel. You are under arrest.” + +I touched my hat and said, “Yes; but you won’t say anything.” + +He answered, “Get on board as soon as you can, or you will lose your +commission.” + +I followed his advice and retraced my steps. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 8.] + +The next morning I ascertained the prisoner had been reported “Safe” +throughout the night. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 9.] + +We sailed for St. Vincent the following day. Before landing our +Governor, Sir John Hill, under a salute, with yards manned, he visited +my cabin in full dress. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 11.] + +We had been on very friendly terms. I see his cocked hat now, with its +fringe of white feathers. He said how sorry he had been on hearing from +the Captain that he had been obliged to place me under arrest, and had +interceded for me. + +Captain Napier had given him permission to say that if I would make a +proper apology to the First Lieutenant I should be allowed to return to +my duty. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 12.] + +Next morning I was sent for to the Captain’s cabin, where I found +Collier. My previous good conduct enabled the Captain to state that, if +I would only express my regret, I might return to my duty. I thanked +the Captain, said I had already written a letter applying for a +court-martial, and that the apology must be made to me. + +[Sidenote: Jamaica] + +Next day, before arrival at Port Royal, I was ordered to return to +duty. Three years later, at the Old Navy Club in Bond Street, when I +was a Commander, we dined together, and I told him the whole story. Of +course, he was going to try me by court-martial then and there! + +While on this station I had the opportunity of making acquaintance with +an interesting people--the Creoles of our West Indies. + +These kind people seemed to live by and for the Navy. The wars of the +eighteenth century threw money into their hands, and during Rodney’s +time the ladies gradually lost their dark polish. Commencing as +washerwomen, and supplying officers’ messes, they accumulated money. +Some of them became the owners of slaves. In Jamaica, years after they +had grown into colonists, many emigrated to other islands under our +flag rather than mix with the sugar-planting negroes. But it was by +their cleanliness, kindness, and attention to sick or wounded that they +became so necessary and were the means of saving many lives. It was not +only at Barbadoes, but at Port Royal, Jamaica, St. Vincent, and St. +Lucia that these ladies used to hold their levees and talk freely of +their absent aristocratic relations. + +Miss Betsy Austin and Miss Nancy Pugett were celebrated during my time. +They had much dignity, and kept a large number of servants. + +On one occasion, when I could not answer for the whereabouts of her +aristocratic son-in-law, Miss Nancy Pugett hazarded the opinion that +“He had gone Norf shoot ’em grouse!” + +[Sidenote: Port Royal, Jamaica, Jan. 21.] + +Refitted in a few days. Received invalids and officers for passage to +England. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 24.] + +Weighed with convoy, who parted company as convenient to themselves. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 5.] + +Anchored off Tampico Bar. Surf too high to admit of landing. Northerly +gale. Ship rolling heavily. Topmasts struck. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 14.] + +Sailed. + +[Sidenote: Off Sacrificios, Feb. 16.] + +Unbent sails. Our boats refitted; lower rigging requiring to be turned +in afresh after the stretching off Tampico. Found United States +corvette _Natchetts_ here. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 19.] + +During my afternoon watch a young officer from the American ship +came on board. He was anxious to speak to our senior midshipman. I +sent to my old friend, Arthur Noad, and introduced them. The officer +stated, “We have received orders from our Congress to amalgamate with +you Britishers, and shall be glad to see you all at dinner on board +our ship.” The following day those who could be spared attended the +invitation. Their midshipmen’s berth, like our own, was on the lower +deck, thrown open for air by the upper part of the bulkhead being on +hinges. + +The dinner was good, and a nice feeling and understanding existed. +After dinner the Chairman filled his glass, and proposed “King +and President,” which was drunk with enthusiasm by all, save one +ultra-sensitive American, who, holding up his glass, said, “Here’s to +the President. The King I shall place in the steerage,” chucking at the +same moment the remainder of his wine. The rest of the party broke up +in mutual good humour. + +Two days afterwards our mids gave a return dinner, and invited the +gentlemen of the corvette; begging, however, to except the one who had +flung the King in the steerage. + +I happened, as before, to be officer of the watch when the excluded mid +came on board and requested an interview with our senior midshipman. +I sent for Noad. The American informed him that he considered he had +been grossly insulted, and demanded satisfaction from one and all the +British midshipmen. I informed the Captain what had happened, who +ordered his gig to be manned, and, directing me to detain the officer, +went on board the _Natchetts_. He returned shortly followed by her +Captain, who asked permission to bring an armed boat alongside, in +which had been placed the chest and other effects of the contumacious +officer. + +We found afterwards that the poor fellow had been landed on the +mainland, south of Sacrificios. Considering the character of the +Spanish-Mexican on that coast, it would have been kinder to have kept +his chest and saved his head. Had our Captain been aware of the poor +fellow’s possible fate, intercession would have been made. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 16.] + +Came to off Tampico Bar. As we were to be here for some time, I +obtained leave for Tennant, one of our mates, to accompany me on an +excursion up the river. + +We hired a roomy canoe. Our crew consisted of one young and active +Mexican, his arms, a couple of paddles and a long pole. Our kitchen, a +large iron kettle which stood on a flat stone. We had our mattresses +and mosquito-curtains. + +For young sportsmen nothing could be more interesting. The variety of +birds in a tropical climate is extraordinary--curlew and cranes, herons +and storks, parrots and pigeons, ducks with canvas-backs, sea-gulls, +with hawks and eagles to watch over them; porpoises and alligators. The +scenery changed with nearly every bend of the river--patches of jungle +and inland swamp: at all eligible spots, haciendas. + +A trifle of money supplied us with eggs and milk, ham and garlic. At +night our canoe was secured to its pole a few yards from the bank, +which saved us visits from an occasional alligator. From the haciendas +we got a variety of deer’s horns merely for taking them away; and +though neither of us spoke Spanish, it was wonderful how soon our +“crew” understood what we wanted. By the time we got back to the ship +we had exceeded our leave by two days. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 4.] + +We found in our absence the Prince of Würtemburg had visited the ship, +and been received with royal honours. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 26.] + +A bar at the mouth of a large river is more than a seaman can manage; +the fresh water, trying to force its way into the sea, meets resistance +at points which vary and cause change and position of shoals. River and +sea meeting cause a rise which the occupants of boats cannot see over. + +I was sent with the next water-party, consisting of launch, pinnace, +and cutter, myself in a gig. We were clear of the ship just before +daybreak. A nice sea-breeze had set in; not fresh enough to carry a +heavy boat through surf under sail, but sufficient to render pulling +easy. Before nearing the breakers we assembled within hail, that I +might let the officers in charge know what I had noticed during the +weeks we were here in the _Tweed_, as I wished each to use his own +discretion before entering a surf through which no one could see. + +“When a wave is rolling in, do not follow close. Directly the crest +of a high wave breaks, its strength diminishes. On entering breakers +keep well clear of one another. The most treacherous of all is a dark +wall of water, which forms at some distance to seaward--say a cable’s +length. It increases in speed and height without apparent cause. Get to +sea beyond the low ends without delay.” + +After this sermon I saw the boats separate to select their points +of entrance, and observed young Carrington, in the cutter, select a +place I should have chosen myself, then lost sight of him. On casting +a look to seaward, I found myself caught in the same sort of trap of +which I had given them warning. There was the dark ridge of unbroken +water approaching, and increasing in speed. No time to be lost; head, +luckily, in-shore, mast stept, sail hoisted, halyards and sheet led +aft, which passed under the thwart I held with one hand, tiller ropes +in the other: crew on either side dropped in the water, holding on with +one hand. + +[Illustration: _Crossing Tampico Bar._] + +Directly I found the wave was carrying us as fast as the wind, I let go +the halyards. + +The next moment we were over the bar. A heavier boat must have been +lost. + +Our danger was past, but the cutter had been upset. Three of her crew +on shore, were holding the legs of young Carrington up to let the water +run out,--and I too late to save the brightest youngster we had in the +ship. + +I detained the assistant-surgeon and sent the heavy boats up for +water. Five of the cutter’s crew were missing, and as the current +naturally set to the southward, the doctor accompanied me along the +beach in search of the missing bodies. + +[Sidenote: March 26, 27.] + +By noon I had received a sunstroke, and was down in an empty hut near +the beach. The raised surf prevented our being visible from the ship, +but fruit and fresh water were obtained; and by sunset I recovered. In +the morning I was able to join boats as they returned on board. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 28.] + +Sailed. + +[Sidenote: April 9.] + +Arrived at Havana. I found the miscalculation of leave at Tampico +prevented my being able to select cigars, but kind shipmates got me the +best for friends at home. + +[Sidenote: April 11.] + +Sailed for England. + +[Sidenote: May 6.] + +Arrived at Spithead. Found some amusement in smuggling my good tobacco +on shore, and still more in delivering it to old friends, some of which +contraband found its way to Kensington Palace! + +[Sidenote: May 16.] + +Once at home, I did not find much difficulty in being placed on +half-pay. + +However I soon heard of a ship fitting out at Woolwich that I much +fancied: a razéed frigate, the _Magicienne_. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +THE _MAGICIENNE_ + + +[Sidenote: 1831. July.] + +The Channel Squadron was not a station for a poor man. Stephenson +managed my removal through his friend Rear-Admiral the Hon. George +Dundas, still at the Admiralty. I had frequently noticed this gallant +Admiral on horseback, dressed in a blue coat with brass buttons, yellow +leather breeches and mahogany top-boots, wending his way to office. + +Sir James Graham had the Admiralty and Sir Thomas Hardy was First Sea +Lord. These distinguished men I came to know better afterwards. + +I had no misunderstanding with Captain Napier, and was sorry to part +with his daughter Fanny, as well as a charming family Mrs. Napier had +by a former marriage, who likewise took the name of Napier. + +_Magicienne_, 24, was commissioned by Captain J. H. Plumridge, who had +the credit of being a taut hand. She had been a frigate of 42 guns, was +razéed without reduction of spars, thereby adding ten feet more drop to +her courses and a longer run to her fore and main clew garnets. + +We were three Lieutenants--Thomas Owen Knox, Fred Hutton, and self. +First Lieutenant keeping no night-watch, Tyndal, a mate, was my relief. + +[Sidenote: August.] + +Being near the headquarters of our East India Company’s marine, we had +difficulty in getting seamen. Two petty officers and a supply of Union +Jacks were sent with me on a sort of roving commission. With expenses +paid, I rather liked this service, and started for Portsmouth, where +I exhibited one of the flags at the Bedford in Chase, on the Hard, +Portsea. Later another was planted at Plymouth. + +It was work not to be done in a day, as when a batch exceeded twenty +it was necessary to take them to the ship at Woolwich. However, I was +tolerably successful, and in the end got a letter of approval from my +Captain. + +Tom Knox had a brother in the Scots Fusilier Guards. Each battalion +had its six or eight oared row-gigs, in which it was great fun for the +ladies to go down with the ebb-tide, dine off whitebait at Greenwich, +and return to town in cabriolets. The excitement in going was shooting +London Bridge. When the tide was out there might be a drop of four or +five feet, which required good way on the boat. Many ladies preferred +landing and re-embarking below. + +It was now that my turn came. The little innocents were under a +delusion that if a sailor steered there could be no danger; and I, +equally ignorant, and seated between them, with pleasure undertook the +job. However, no accident happened during my time. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 8.] + +We celebrated the coronation of William IV. Although we had no guns, +there were plenty in Woolwich to salute, and all hands got extra grog +and, in the dockyard, a holiday. + +Among the Captain’s numerous visitors whose society I enjoyed, was +Theodore Hook, in whose company no one could have been without finding +he was a remarkable man. His wit was ready and acute. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 22.] + +His Majesty, accompanied by Queen Adelaide, came to see the launch of +the _Thunderer_, 84. We were in a more fit state to be seen; although +in dock, we had royal yards across, and the band of the Fusilier Guards +on board. + +Our Sailor King was in a playful humour, and observing from the +dockyard that the officers had a ladies’ party in the gunroom to lunch, +and the skylight off, made a sign not to be noticed. He dropped the +point of his sword on to the mess-table, holding the knot, to the +astonishment of the ladies and amusement of all. His Majesty wore the +uniform of Lord High Admiral, and was the last holder of that office. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 2.] + +We sailed from the Basin, came to off Purfleet, and took in powder. + +Sailed next day, and came to at the Little Nore, saluting the flag of +Admiral Sir John de la Poer Beresford. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 6.] + +Came to in the downs; saluted the flag of Rear-Admiral Warren. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 10.] + +Sailed. Anchored at Spithead, saluting flag of Admiral Sir Thomas Foley. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 17.] + +Sailed by St. Helens; anchored in Torbay, where we remained three more +days for the last farewell letters, Captain being engaged to be married. + +We had the usual sea-voyage, with its porpoises, dolphins, and +flying-fish leaving their train of phosphoric light through the water +at night, especially when the wind had any southing in it. Otherwise I +thought myself too old a mariner to feel any interest. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 2.] + +The Captain detained the _Neptune_, an American brig, to put more +letters on board, an opportunity we availed ourselves of. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 14.] + +On board a man-of-war every officer, to the youngest mid, has to send +a copy of his reckoning to the cabin--a good plan as it enables the +Captain to compare and detect errors. These small reckonings were +called “day’s works,” due at 1 P.M. Shortly after 2 P.M. officers were +ordered to assemble in the Captain’s cabin. We stood before the table, +small fry in front. + +Our chief, with his left hand full of day’s works, addressed himself to +me, the most nervous and frightened of the assembled lot: + +“Mr. Keppel, how is it that your day’s work, unlike the others, always +agrees to a second with that of the masters?” + +I, being unprepared, suggested that perhaps I was the only one who took +a _correct_ copy. + +There was a small titter, which was growing into a laugh, when we were +ordered to quit the cabin. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 18.] + +Sunday, 1 A.M.--It was my middle watch, when smoke was reported as +issuing from under the hatch of the gunner’s storeroom. As the keys +of that and other storerooms had been returned at sunset to the First +Lieutenant’s cabin, and the fore magazine passage opened into said +storeroom, while rushing down, I called out to beat to quarters, put +ship before the wind, and reported to the Captain. + +Ship’s company was in order, men promptly in their station, lower sails +clewed up, and water-cocks turned on. On removing the fore hatch, +flames rushed up, met by a deluge of water. The fore sail-room was on +fire: spare topsail however was ablaze, but extinguished before it +reached the quarter-deck. + +The fire, by great exertions, was got under; though we had a narrow +escape. Woodwork forming bulkhead of the magazine was burnt through the +copper lining. At 3.45 A.M. the watch was called. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 23.] + +With the exception of a good day’s target practice, nothing particular +occurred till the end of the year, when we arrived at Rio, and I once +more beheld the most beautiful harbour in the world. + +[Sidenote: 1832. Jan. 1.] + +We found _Warspite_, 76, bearing the flag of Rear-Admiral Sir Thomas +Baker, commanded by Captain Charles Talbot; _Dublin_, 56, Lord James +Townshend; _Pylades_, 18, Commander Edward Blanckley. Saluted flag of +the Rear-Admiral with 11 guns, the Brazilian flag with 21. + +While we were here the young Prince, who was born when I was at Rio, +Christmas, 1824, held a levee, which I, with the Captain, attended. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 5.] + +Weighed at daylight, and ran out of Rio Harbour with the land-breeze. +We soon got into the trade winds. Communicated with a whaler off +Tristan d’Achuna. + +Captain not caring to call at the Cape, we kept to the southward, and +held our breeze the longer. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 30.] + +In 41° 30′ we had a run of 258 miles, which we thought something of. +However, we were soon under close-reefed main topsail and reefed +foresail, and lost a poor fellow overboard, who was putting in a +deadlight. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 13.] + +Made St. Paul’s Island, which most ships like to do, to ensure their +reckoning. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 17.] + +Observed a ship on the horizon with sails furled. She proved to be +an East Indiaman, the _Marquis of Huntley_, having carried away her +rudder. We sent assistance and supplied bar iron and spike-nails. +Remained by until she was safe to proceed. A seaman named Leaves fell +from aloft, but, having struck the quarter-davit, we could not recover +the body. + +[Sidenote: March 8.] + +I now come to an event in my life which I would fain leave out, but +having promised to tell the “truth, the whole truth, and nothing but +the truth,” must go on. + +We were off Ceylon, hoping to reach Trincomalee the following day. Mine +was the second dog-watch, which had come to an end, and a squall was +brewing. Tyndal, although the son of a Judge, was not a smart relief. +It was near one bell before he came up, and the squall came down. I +appeared in the gunroom as if I had been overboard, seated myself at +the table, and called for grog. + +Now, Hutton, who for his cheery disposition was named “Dirk Hatterick,” +came behind, and as I was about to console my shivering timbers, my +chair tilted backwards, the contents of the glass caught Dirk in the +tender part of his eyes. He rushed in pain to his cabin, while I +consoled myself with a second edition. Here the affair might and ought +to have ended, but for my folly. + +The following day, while seated with Knox at the gunroom table, Hutton +on deck looking out for a meridian altitude, Knox asked Hutton up the +skylight the latitude, which was given. + +I remarked, “You can’t go by Dirk’s reckoning.” To which Hutton +retorted: “Mr. Keppel, I want none of your remarks.” I was up on the +instant, and told him that if he had thrown grog in _my_ eyes he would +have heard of it by this time. + +Now, there were two Irishmen on the station about my age, the very boys +to arrange matters. They had both been at the Naval College with me. +One, Lloyd, belonged to the ship. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 10.] + +Arrived Trincomalee. Found, as I expected, _Crocodile_, 28, Captain J. +W. Montague. + +O’Brien soon visited me. I already had a visit from Lloyd, sent by +Hutton: demanding “Apology or satisfaction.” O’Brien knew exactly how +the ropes led on shore. These affairs do not require talk. “Half an +hour before sunset, outside the fortifications.” Officers of garrison +had gone to dress for dinner. Everything quiet. Duelling pistols were +heavy, ugly things: single barrels, a foot long. But in those days the +refinement of detonating caps, instead of flint and steel, had been +introduced. + +O’Brien had obtained a surgeon and the necessary instruments. Our +friends seemed to understand their business. Ground of twelve paces +measured. Lloyd was to drop a white handkerchief. As I had been the +aggressor, I did not wish to draw blood, but held straight enough to +make my opponent believe I meant business. + +As the handkerchief dropped, Hutton fired low and sprinkled me with +gravel. Our seconds, unlike Irishmen, held counsel, and said honour was +satisfied. _I_ know I thought so; but Hutton declared for “Apology or +blood.” + +On retaking our places, I began to think that I would rather bleed Dirk +than die myself. When the handkerchief fell I thought I had spotted +him. His pistol missed fire. My ball went through the thick part of his +cap, and I was saved a life’s misery. Seconds declined to load again, +and recommended the necessary shaking of hands. Hutton stated that I +should go to him. I refused to go more than halfway way, which the +seconds decided was just, and so ended the affair. + +O’Brien, thinking I might be able to eat a small supper, provided that +pleasant meal at the quarters of his friend Holyoake, 78th Highlanders. +I said my prayers more earnestly that night. + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +THE _MAGICIENNE_ + + +[Sidenote: 1832. March.] + +Trincomalee is a beautiful and extensive harbour, which had been taken +and retaken by the Dutch and ourselves several times during the last +century, and at the Peace of Amiens, in 1802, was ceded to England. + +In 1702 many pretty naval actions were fought off the island, in which +our neighbours appear to have got the worst. In the centre of the +harbour is Sober Island, about which our liberty men delighted to roam. +Jack had discovered sundry little secret dells, in which, if after +sunset you planted a rupee, on the following morning would find it had +grown into a bottle of samshoo! The island belonged, I believe, by +purchase to Commander Henry Ellis. + +Off the dockyard was a useful old hulk, the _Arrogant_, on board which +Divine service was held on the Sabbath Day; and after dinner came +“Sober Island,” with its usual results. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 12.] + +The _Southampton_, 52, arrived. We saluted the flag of Rear-Admiral Sir +E. W. Owen, K.C.B. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 15.] + +The dark owner of a small farm brought a report of an invasion by +elephants on his premises, destroying a plantation of cocoanuts, +yam, and fruit, and if gentlemen sportsmen liked to come at night he +was ready to show the way. This was indeed a chance. There was no +difficulty in getting up a night picnic. Climate perfection--coolies +willing. + +Towards midnight it came over a thick mist. Curries and songs expended. +Our guide professed to scent Gadjá, and proposed an advance. + +We were led into a low jungle bordering a pâdi-field, but so dark +you could scarcely see your hand. However, we could hear there was +something alive, and my attention was called to a darker patch, into +which we were directed to fire. There was a groan and a splash. It +was too dark to follow, and our guide proposed the search should be +postponed until after breakfast. + +When I got back I found myself invited to dine with the Admiral, who +had been informed of my night picnic. The dinner was a grand affair, +the Admiral’s band, ladies of officials, and all the Captains present. + +On retiring from the table, as we sat pretending to enjoy the music, +the Secretary brought a letter to the Admiral, written in Tamil +characters. Interpretation as follows: + + “TO HIS EXCELLENCY’S REAR-ADMIRAL, SIR E. W. OWEN, K.C.B., + COMMANDER OF HIS MAJESTY’S NAVY AND EAST INDIA’S SEAS. + + “_The Humble Petition of Conanyaga Modr Tillenadin_ + + “MOST HUMBLY SHEWETH, + + “That the petitioner most humbly and submissively begs leave + to acquaint Your Excellency that on Thursday, March 15, 1832, + about ten o’clock at night, three gentlemen of the ship + _Magicienne_ came hunting in the China village, and adjoining + a pâdi-field the petitioner’s buffaloes were grazing, the + buffaloes never being accustomed to be confined or be tied + up to a stick in the night-time. The said gentlemen shot + petitioner’s three buffaloes, which died that night. Two + measures of milk daily was received from one. One she-buffalo + was big, and another has a calf of one month old, which is + alive now, but will not live long for want of the mother. + + “Therefore petitioner most submissively prays Your Excellency + will be graciously pleased to favour the petitioner by having + justice done to him. The cattle valued is the lowest at the sum + of six pounds. + + “For which act of favouring the petitioner is in duty bound. + + “(Signed) + + “TRINCOMALEE, + “_March 16, 1832_.” + +I had the account settled, but my firm belief is that the writer of the +petition and our guide were one and the same person. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 29.] + +Arrived _Comet_, 18, Commander A. A. Sandilands. _Imogene_, 28, Captain +Price Blackwood. + +[Sidenote: April 12.] + +_Alligator_, 28, Captain G. R. Lambert. + +[Sidenote: April 17.] + +My first night’s supper at Holyoake’s quarters was an introduction to +these kind Highlanders. Captain Forbes appeared to have had several +elephant-shooting parties. Holyoake had been in more than one, with +some narrow escapes. But now he was all for smaller game. + +Snipe-shooting in India is an attractive sport, but after sunrise +birds lie closer, while you are the less inclined to retire to your +comfortable rest-house. + +As the ground was distant seventeen miles, eleven of which lay through +dense jungle, we were off before daylight, and arrived in good time, +enjoying such sport as is found nowhere except in the Far East, +returning to a breakfast of curry and rice, tobacco, etc. + +“Sport” not being in my Captain’s dictionary, it was necessary to +renew my leave, which, being confined to four-and-twenty hours, obliged +me to return to the ship. + +Having observed as we came fresh tracks of elephants, I made anxious +inquiries as to what I should do if I came across one. My anxiety was +laughed at. I was assured that the only danger lay in meeting a male +detached from the herd. + +I had advanced some four miles in the jungle, which was anything +but a straight path, when my horse began to snort and show signs of +uneasiness. On entering the next bend, I saw, to my horror, a huge +elephant blocking the way. + +Remembering instructions, I held up my arms and bellowed out, which +drew attention. He put out his trunk, as if to smell what I was, and +trumpeted. The sound pierced through me. He flapped his ears, which +looked like barn-doors, and rushed at me. My horse sprang round in the +narrow jungle-path. The elephant was then close, and nothing but my hat +coming off, which he stopped to examine, gave me a start. + +The ground was uneven, being, in fact, the dried-up bed of a mountain +stream. As I had to avoid obstacles at times, the brute gained on me, +I meanwhile suffering the torture of fright. After some four miles, +coming to the edge of a lake, which I had passed in the morning, I +observed that the elephant had stopped. + +[Illustration: _An Elephant in Chase._] + +My horse was not fit for many yards further, and the heat of the sun +reminded me I had no hat. I pulled up to have a look at my enemy, who +placed himself on the edge of the jungle I had just cleared. I profited +by this to make a head-covering of my pocket-handkerchief, then +carefully examined the monster, feeling I had the advantage of level +ground. With his trunk he threw up an amount of dust and dirt, which +descended on his back, driving away clouds of flies. One would have +thought his hide impervious to such tiny foes. + +I continued my retreat, with such speed and dignity as my poor horse +was capable of, to the rest-house. I found my companions luxuriating +in sleep and tobacco. Exhausted by my adventure, I threw myself into a +chair and sang out “Grog!” One of my friends remarked: + +“Why, it’s Keppel back again!” + +I had strength enough to exclaim I had seen an elephant, which caused +a roar of laughter. They declared I must have come across a rogue +detached from the herd. + +Soon refreshed, I stated that I must start again for the harbour. The +good Adjutant, John Edward Bull, kindly lent me his horse. I described +the place where I had left the elephant, and as they did not think +he would have moved far, my friends decided to try a shot at him. +Unfortunately, on examining the ammunition, they found themselves +prepared for snipe only. + +I then asked for a convoy. The whole party turned out, and two coolies +were told off to keep a hundred yards in advance. + +We found the elephant where I left him. He charged the coolies, +who plunged into the lake, re-landing in the jungle; the elephant +disappeared. The party returned to the rest-house, while I went on my +way. + +Before sighting the advance, my nerves got another shock. I heard +a crash through the jungle. It was no use retreating. A glimpse of +daylight broke from above, showing a troop of a thousand monkeys, +jumping in a westerly direction along the upper branches of the jungle +bushes. On discerning me chattering increased. + +A boat, nearer the _Magicienne_ than the dockyard, was waiting for me. + +Back in my cabin, I felt how much I needed rest and quiet. + +[Sidenote: April 21.] + +Sailed with _Crocodile_, but, to keep company with our senior while off +the wind, we had to lower topsails on the cap. + +[Sidenote: April 24.] + +We arrived at Madras Roads. + +Madras is an open roadstead, safe only during the westerly monsoon. +Surf always breaking on the beach. Communication with the shore only +by native boats, called _masúlas_. These curious boats are built of +mango-wood, caulked with straw and sewn together with cocoanut fibre. +Their length is about thirty feet, by ten broad, with a depth of seven +or eight feet. They are propelled by oars with round, flat ends. The +crew consists of a dozen natives and a _tindal_, who steers, and leads +the song, which, discordant though it is, is a help in the movement of +the boat; the time depends on the rate of the surf. + +Letters, called _chits_, are conveyed by naked natives in +catamarans--three misshapen logs lashed together by _rôtans_, and +propelled through, not over, the waves. Sharks, too, were in close +attendance--apparently for company only. + +The changes of monsoon, in May and October, are often accompanied by +hurricanes. + +I always thought the East Indies the pleasantest of stations while +governed by the good old John Company. Their liberality was unbounded. +Such a thing as an hotel or lodging-house was not to be found. On +your landing at either of the Presidencies, coolies were in waiting, +and there was almost a fight between the _daibashes_ as to who should +get possession of your portmanteau; while yourself was carried off in +a palanquin on the shoulders of four dark coolies, who bore you in +triumph to their master’s house. + +Such were our princely merchants. The liberality of John Company +exceeded everything. Not only was a commissioned officer’s pay +doubled--it was called _batta_--but the Company kept houses furnished +at all stations to which a man-of-war could go. Servants, plate, and +linen were found. The cooking, too! Such curries as I had never even +dreamed of! + +Tiffin appeared to be the meal of the day, in which the gentler sex +joined. Bass’s pale ale, and claret, cooled by saltpetre, were the +rival drinks. + +Perry, Dare and Co. were the Navy agents, who were second to none in +hospitality. + +News had reached Madras of fresh disturbances at Nanning, on the Malay +Peninsula. We sailed. + +[Sidenote: May 14.] + +Anchored at Nancowry Harbour, one of the Nicobar Group, sailing +following day. + +[Sidenote: May 19.] + +Arrived at Penang; remained only long enough to take in stores and +freight for service. Penang was notorious at this time for fever, which +attacked the young men most severely: few under thirty recovered. + +[Sidenote: June 6.] + +We anchored off Malacca, some distance from the shore, owing to the +shallowness of the water, which caused an unpleasant rolling motion. + +The authorities sat in council on our arrival. John Company had had +trouble with different chiefs. In 1830 the Rajah of Nanning, Dool +Sayd, was in rebellion, in which he was abetted by neighbouring petty +chiefs. He had then seized territory adjoining our settlement of +Malacca. + +The following year the Company despatched a force of 5000 men. It +was not successful, and they had to retire on Malacca, leaving two +six-pounder brass guns in the jungle. + +The province of Nanning, distant from the coast, was only reached by +river. Authorities decided that, while the troops prepared to advance +by land, our boats were to blockade the rivers Lingghi, Moowar, and +Kissang, embracing some sixty miles of coast. + +Here is the copy of my first order: + + “By James Hanway Plumridge, Esq. + Capt. of His Majesty’s Ship _Magicienne_, and + Senior Officer, Malacca. + + The Government having resolved upon the blockading the rivers + Lingy, Moowar, and Kissang, and issued proclamation thereof. + + You are hereby required and directed after visiting the boats + named in the margin and taking care to see they are provided + with arms, ammunition, stores, and provisions for eight days + for their several crews, to proceed to the entrance of the + Moowar river and there remain till further orders. + + Should boats persist in endeavouring to force their way down, + or do not return without gunshot, you will detain them, landing + their guns on shore except the person in charge, and send their + boats to Malacca. All proas and boats are in the first instance + to be warned off, and informed the river is under blockade both + ways; and it is my direction that you use all the diligence and + means in your power to keep the said river in a complete and + effectual state of blockade. + + I rely on your forbearance and vigilance in the execution of + these duties, and have little doubt you will acquit yourself + as much to my satisfaction as when last on detached service. + + Given under my hand on board His Majesty’s Ship _Magicienne_ at + Malacca this 10th day of June 1832. + + (Signed) HANWAY PLUMRIDGE, Capt. + + To Lieutenant the Honble. Henry Keppel, + of His Majesty’s Ship _Magicienne_.” + +I felt much interest in this small expedition. My force consisted of +the _Diamond_, hired schooner, mounting four noisy brass guns; she also +carried a four-oared gig for my particular use. Besides this, there was +a schooner-rigged pinnace and seven man-of-war boats. We were attended +from Malacca by a mixture of Dutch, Portuguese, and Malays, in various +floating craft. + +A larger river, the Lingghi, to the eastward, was commanded by Hutton. +The line of coast blockaded extended sixty miles. Before taking up my +blockading position, we had a ceremonious visit to pay the chief whose +rivers we were about to occupy. + +The Rajah of Moowar was a loyal adherent of the Government, but he was +without the power to prevent the munitions of war passing into the +Nanning territory. + +From the ship, although some way off, I was enabled to obtain +assistance to make a suitable display on presenting the official +letter, as well as the sword which had been added. + +The palace, like most Malay buildings, projected into the water, where +it is supported on piles, and shaded by _kadjangs_. The blockading +fleet was anchored opposite, in line. A Malay royal salute consists of +3 guns only, but unluckily there is no limit to the number of salutes. + +The senior mid, Mr. D. B. Bedford, an intelligent youth, undertook +the office of master of ceremonies, and appointed himself to carry +the colours, while I was of too great importance to do any more than +I could help! We landed from a procession of boats: a Marine officer, +Lieutenant Ford, and myself bringing up the rear. + +A high-caste Malay is never in a hurry. The important part of the +ceremony, to them, consisted in the length of time they could keep us +waiting. _I_ considered myself second only to the Rajah in importance; +but it was evident that I was eclipsed by Lieutenant Ford, of the Royal +Marines, in his red coat and tall feather. + +After a time, by a side-opening, there appeared a yellow-silk +canopy supported on poles, which sheltered His Highness. He wore a +red-and-green handkerchief round his head, with a corner sticking up. +His legs well through dark-red trousers, a Highland-looking sarong, and +a beautiful gold-embroidered _kris_ inlaid with precious stones, stuck +in his waist. + +After shaking of hands and a palaver through interpreters, the letter +was presented, amid the cheers of the _fleet_! and salutes from the +brass guns. The same was repeated when the sword was delivered. Coffee +and sweetmeats were carried by ladies of the harem. + +[Illustration: _A Royal Salute._] + +Here my assistants showed symptoms of weariness. I noticed that +the Rajah flinched as each gun went off. Wanting to accelerate the +departure of the kind assistance I had received from the ship, which +was over twenty miles off, I ordered another salute to be fired. The +good Rajah became very anxious that I should be informed that the reply +to the letter would be forwarded without delay to the “General of the +Honourable Company” at Malacca. As I saw he began to look really ill, +I let him off the last salute, and thus concluded the ceremony. + +My friends from the _Magicienne_ came on board the _Diamond_, where I +had prepared a blow-out of chickens boiled in pea-soup and onions, to +be washed down by Bass’s pale ale, to which they did ample justice. +They then departed, leaving me alone in my glory. + +Presentation of the letter and sword to the Rajah over, and my +assistants from the ship not in sight, I arranged my small fleet. By +a convenient bend of the river, we could move to a position out of +sight of the palace. Bedford in pinnace, and two native boats, armed, +carrying eight men each, had to blockade the mouth of the Kissang, +keeping a good look-out for signals. + +The _Diamond_ lay nearer the western side of the Moowar, with a +war-boat at a respectable distance ahead and another astern of her. The +other seven boats formed a line nearer the eastern shore, just within +hail of one another, leaving an open space in the middle of the river +for prizes. To each boat was attached a canoe, which of course was the +“Captain’s gig.” The whole was arranged in less than an hour, when I +was glad to get back to the _Diamond_. + +I had an interpreter who likewise played the fiddle, a good native +curry cook, my gig’s crew and three Royal Marines for sentries, a +corporal who did officer. The company of midshipmen commanding boats +could be obtained by signal. + +Quiet as the jungle was by day, with its savage inhabitants, we were +little prepared for their midnight carousals, when they came to +wash their mouths out. The first roar sounded so loud, while I was +dreaming, that I fancied my _Diamond_ had been carried by boarding, and +that my reign was over, ere it had well begun. + +The following day the Rajah granted an audience. I took my coxswain and +interpreter only. Nothing could have been nicer or more gentlemanlike. +He was evidently a keen sportsman, but a spear more to his hand than a +double barrel. He informed me that the jungle contained elephants, a +few of them white; tigers and black panthers, buffaloes and wild cattle +(_Bos gaurus_), large Samba deer, wild-pig, small bears, besides a +variety of monkeys. + +He presented me with a handsome spear, seven feet long. Below the blade +there was a foot of wrought gold, very handsome; and then human hair, +reddish, but whether natural or dyed I could not tell. By virtue of +this royal spear I could demand anything. I have it now. Orders had +already been given that nothing should be received without payment in +full. + +Being fond of a stroll with gun, coxswain carrying ammunition, I went +for a short distance into the jungle. Observing on the top branch of a +high tree,--some ninety feet from the ground, a round-looking lump, I +fired. It fell; on my running up, a little monkey jumped from under. A +large Brahmin kite, at a stoop, seized the child. A piece of wood at +hand enabled me to throw near enough to cause the kite to drop it. The +poor little thing ran for protection to the murderer of its mother. It +was the first monkey I ever shot; needless to say, it was the last. + +On board, we found it was badly hurt. The kite’s talons had penetrated +the skin; the wounds were dressed, and it was made over to the care +of a kind mid, by name Glynn. But where the claws had penetrated +maggots bred: rum would not destroy them; it was thought kinder to let +the little thing get tipsy on sugar and rum, and when in a state of +insensibility commit the little body to the deep. + +The Rajah soon found out that I was fond of sport. He now took me in +his state boat to a spot up the river towards the Rumbau range, which +heads the Moowar. + +On landing, he led me to an opening, and, seated on a fallen tree, we +saw at least five hundred elephants with young ones at foot, passing +quietly through the low jungle, the elders breaking off the tender +green shoots, and so feeding their young. The whole mass moved in a +slow and solemn manner. The males were excluded. A sight that I shall +never forget! + +[Illustration: _Elephants with Young at Foot, Moowar Valley._] + +Dark quickly follows sunset. + +Wishing to test the alertness observed on board my puny fleet, I sent +secretly, beyond the bend of the river, a Malay with a cocoanut-oil +lamp, to be placed with lighted wick so as to float down close to the +bushes. The stream was running fresh. + +[Sidenote: July.] + +About 9 P.M. heard the first hail; the second was followed by the +report of a musket, and so repeated down the line. My imaginary enemy +floated out to sea, the Chief having made no signal to chase. Soon all +was quiet until the denizens of the jungle announced their thirst. + +One morning the Rajah borrowed a three-pounder brass swivel he had +noticed on board. An hour later I heard a report and started in the +gig. It was a pull against stream and a scramble over deep marshy +ground, which was worse for us than for Malay guides, which the Rajah +had sent, knowing the report of the swivel would bring me. + +We found His Highness had had a climb. With the three-pounder swivel he +had broken the near hind-leg of a female elephant just above the lower +joint. As we came up the poor beast made a fresh attempt to escape. As +the Rajah appeared to be indifferent, I thought it would be a mercy to +put her out of misery. + +In Ceylon, the vulnerable spot in the forehead had been pointed out to +me. A rifle-shot put her out of misery. It was amusing to see the ease +with which the young one, by a swing of the leg, turned over any one of +the boat’s crew who attempted to pass the painter over its head. + +[Illustration: _Blue-jackets in Chase._] + +As morning broke, a refreshing rifle-shot was generally to be found by +a sleeping alligator on the mud. If you hit him, he would slide into +the river. I have often fancied they do not hear: within a couple of +inches, I have struck rocks and mud without disturbing them. + +During frequent excursions with the Rajah, I penetrated the +domesticities of elephant life: guided by Malays to selected spots in +the jungle. I have seen beds prepared of soft young branches, about +three feet deep, neatly squared off like a well-made stable litter. +This, it appears, is an attention paid by the male to his consort. + +One evening, observing from the _Diamond_ a huge alligator asleep on +the mud, some distance up the opposite shore, I embarked with one Malay +lad in a small canoe, and paddled up-stream far up on the opposite +bank, hoping to drop down in time with the tide, to get a shot that +might take effect. + +On reaching the place, I found marks which showed he had slid off the +bank. I had given up all hopes of him, and was plunging my steering, +pointed, paddle deep into the water. It struck something hard, and I +found the alligator directly under the canoe; his head appeared under +the port-bow, his tail lashing the water, covering myself and native +boy with mud. Why the brute did not capsize us and make a meal, I +cannot imagine, for the canoe was balanced athwart his back. I believe +he was more startled, if possible, than we were. + +A few days after this little ruse, I received information from the +Rajah that a large prahu was running a cargo in the jungle, two +miles to the southward of the entrance to the Moowar. The boats of +the squadron were getting ready, while I, with the interpreter and a +double-barrelled rifle, started at once to seaward, and found a large +trading-boat endeavouring to make sail. As soon as I got within reach, +a ball from my rifle caused both sails to be lowered. By this time she +had opened the mouth of the river: there was no further trouble. The +interpreter pointed out her berth in the centre of the river. + +The Nanning war was now over, the Company had recovered their guns, +and the natives glad to come to any terms. The blockading squadron was +recalled to the ship. This expedition, which I thoroughly enjoyed, +lasted from June 10 to August 23. + +A few days after I rejoined the ship a boat came alongside, with the +young elephant on board, and messengers from the Rajah asking me to +accept it as a parting gift. Needless to say, it was a present my smart +Captain would not permit me to accept. + +I was sorry to part with my good friend the Rajah. So persuaded was +he of my merits, that he solemnly offered me the hand of his daughter +in marriage, on condition that I would become his heir and succeed +him on the throne of Moowar. It was no idle jest. His Highness wrote +officially to the Powers at Penang, and for some years the document was +to be seen in the Government offices. + +I have endeavoured to obtain a copy of this flattering proposal; but +the lapse of time, the changes of administration in the affairs of +the Straits Settlements, to say nothing of the ravages of white ants, +preclude my presenting it to my readers. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +THE _MAGICIENNE_ + + +[Sidenote: 1832. Sept.] + +We next had a pretty run down the Straits; sky sails and royal studding +sails, passing everything, opium clippers included. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 5.] + +Arrived at Singapore, where Robert Ibbetson was Resident; should like +to have remained longer at this charming place, but my turn came later. + +On October 1 we were threading our way through this “sea of islands,” +leadsman in the chains, heading for Batavia. Mr. George Bonham, a +member of the Government, was the guest of our Captain, who fancied he +could not bear the smell of tobacco. + +It was my first watch. Bonham, who could not sleep, about six bells +came to me in his distress. The Straits were subject to squalls. I +bid the Quartermaster “put the Captain’s skylight on,” and then told +Bonham he might fire away. By the time his cigar was finished, the +“_threatened_” squall had passed, and the Captain allowed to breathe +freely. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 8.] + +We landed Mr. Bonham at Batavia, and sailed next day, saluting the +Dutch flag. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 10.] + +At midnight we hailed the United States corvette _Peacock_. He was at +quarters, clear for action. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 3.] + +Having passed through the Straits of Sunda, arrived at Trincomalee +October 3. + +We had no night elephant-shooting this time, but much fun in company of +the Highland Regiment. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 15.] + +Sailed for Madras. Five days after, during the middle watch, we fell in +with the _Lady Flora_, General Sir Frederick Adam, the newly-appointed +Governor, on board. Our Captain, doing the civil, sent me with an offer +to convey despatches to Madras. + +As no one of importance was likely to be out of his cot, I went in +night-watch costume and delivered the message. Considering that we were +within a hundred miles of the anchorage, the Captain did not seem to +take the offer as any compliment to his _Lady Flora_; nevertheless, +he caused a jar of preserved ginger to be put in the boat as a +contribution to the “midshipmen’s mess.” + +[Sidenote: Oct. 23.] + +We arrived at Madras. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 25.] + +Two days after, on attending my Captain at the Governor’s levée, Ford, +the Captain of the _Lady Flora_, was astonished to see the mid to whom +he had given the ginger, wearing epaulettes. It was my good-fortune to +be able to make the acquaintance of another of Wellington’s Generals, +and one so distinguished, too, at Waterloo. It was some years after +before the K.C.B. and K.C.M.G., well-earned decorations, were bestowed. +The General strongly resembled his brother Charles, at this time +Rear-Admiral of the White. + +Sir Frederick Adam relieved the Right Hon. Stephen Lushington as +Governor. + +The houses allotted the naval officers by the Company were on the Mount +Road, a charming promenade. I had a kinsman in Henry, another son of +Dean Garnier. He belonged to a Madras cavalry regiment, but just now +had command of the Governor’s bodyguard. The horses were thoroughbred +Arabs, beautiful to look at, but dangerous to play with. Nevertheless, +after galloping home from a morning ride, dismounting, and hungry for +breakfast, these same horses, deprived of saddle and bridle, would walk +into the bungalow, and eat bread from our hands. + +On the Mount Road, near a native hut, between which and the road, +was an elephant, lamed from having trodden on a glass bottle. It +was attended by a native vet. Before any one knew that the vet was +approaching, he would commence a melancholy moan, and swing his huge +limb backwards and forwards until the dressing was commenced. This +little game was repeated daily while we were there. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 3.] + +We sailed from Madras, and amused ourselves at sea until 24th, when we +arrived at Penang, a gem of an island. + +During our first visit the war with Nanning engrossed all our time; +thus, we were unable to spend any time on shore, or explore its +beauties. The road by the coast is shaded by a succession of the +prettiest and coolest-looking bungalows. After business hours some +officials retire to the luxuriously cool Government houses on the +heights. + +At the foot of the hill is a refreshing waterfall; just at the angle +where you turn off among the shady forest trees on the path ascending +to the Government buildings. The view from the top is perfection. On +one side is Sumatra, with its Acheen Head to the north-west; on the +other, the Peninsula, stretching away south to Singapore. On the ruins +of a fort there was an old, long brass gun with the arms of Queen +Anne. A strait of one mile and a half separates Penang from the Malay +Peninsula. Tigers and alligators common on both sides. There was more +than one instance of a tiger clinging at night to the accommodation +ladder of a trader for rest, when tides were fresh. + +[Sidenote: Malacca, Dec. 1.] + +Anchored at Malacca, an interesting old Dutch place. The Stadt House, +where the Resident lived, was built on a low hill facing the sea, and +beautifully cool. The first-floor was approached by a carved ebony +staircase. + +A little further to the southward, on a higher hill, stands the old +Church of Notre Dame del Monte, in which St. Francis Xavier had +preached. Lower down are the remains of the city wall, with the Dutch +arms still clinging to it. + +Malacca is one of the oldest settlements in the East. Captured by the +English in 1795, restored in 1818, and finally ceded to England in +exchange for Sumatra in 1824, which may account for the Queen Anne gun +at Acheen Head. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 21.] + +Returned to Madras. + +[Sidenote: 1833. January.] + +Cannot call our first cruise this new year one of pleasure. It was +in search of an imaginary shoal, supposed to have been discovered by +_Melville_, 74, flagship, in 17° 16′ north latitude, and 85° 57′ east +longitude. We kept deep-sea leads going in the chains, as well as in +pinnace and launch, on either side with one hundred fathoms of line. +Gave it up at end of ten days. It reminded me of Jack’s rhyme: + + Six days you shall work as hard as you are able, + On the seventh, holy stone decks and black the chain cable. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 26.] + +Returned to Madras, where we remained until end of the month. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 31.] + +We sailed for Calcutta. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 10.] + +Came to off the Sandheads. Interesting to see the pains taken by +the gentleman-like pilots. Quartermasters were no longer trusted; our +lead-lines marked by themselves to feet instead of fathoms, with their +own leadsmen in the chains. + +George Malthers, Royal Marine, died. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 11.] + +The Marine officer, Lieutenant Ford, no relation to the Captain of +the _Lady Flora_, and myself were sent to Diamond Harbour to bury the +deceased. + +Poor Ford was not young. His commission on entering the service as +Lieutenant, the rank he now held, was dated the year in which I was +born; he was, moreover, lame from gout. + +We landed at what was called the rest-house. There were rest-houses +all over the Company’s dominions, and I believe are still. The +burial-ground was over a mile away. + +The country for some distance was divided into pâdi-fields by +embankments some twelve feet high, thence, into squares about twenty +feet broad, extending for miles. The young pâdi was just beginning to +rise from its bed of mud. + +On our return, walking slowly with Ford, having just passed a buffalo +cow, we came to a pretty little calf, which I patted on the back. All +at once I heard a snort, and the next moment I was in the air,--cocked +hat, sword, Prayer-book flying in all directions; myself descending to +the pâdi-field, which held an additional four feet of mud. + +[Illustration: _Returning from the Funeral._] + +Boat’s crew and firing-party came up with a rush. The ropes that +lowered the coffin to the depths of its grave came in handy to raise me +to the surface. On coming to the top, I saw nothing of the cow, calf, +or poor old Ford. On board he had, of course, a capital story to tell. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +THE _MAGICIENNE_ + + +[Sidenote: 1833. Feb. 11.] + +On return from the funeral I was sent in a native boat to Calcutta, +with a despatch to the Governor-General. It was slow work against +stream, and at night very cold, for which I was unprepared. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 12.] + +However, I arrived the following morning, and landed at the Shampur +ghât. A palanquin conveyed me to Government House. Lord William +Cavendish Bentinck was well known; twenty years previously he had been +Governor of Madras. + +I was not kept long. Instead of finding myself ushered into the +presence of a potentate with twenty A.D.C.’s, I found His Excellency +in plain clothes: his only companion, a parrot on his finger. He was +kindness itself. I had been but little in the London world, but he +seemed to know everybody I had seen, or even heard of. + +The ship arrived in the afternoon, and anchored off the esplanade. +Although many fine Indiamen and larger ships were here, nothing came +up to _Magicienne_ in appearance. In due time His Excellency paid an +official visit. + +[Illustration: Magicienne _at Calcutta_.] + +A salute with yards manned is a pretty sight, and our _Magicienne_ was, +even for a man-of-war, unusually _taunt_, and on shore attracted a +large concourse. The Hooghly was not a bright and limpid stream. Of a +morning we often had to clear our hawse of dark bodies, hardly visible +from the darker mud. + +Quarters were provided for officers in Fort William. The ancient one, +in which was the famous Black Hole, was two miles farther up the river. + +We were kindly invited by H. E. to Barrackpore. But it was the height +of the season, balls, pig-sticking, parties, picnics, and private +theatricals going on. + +The hunt meet at Dum-Dum (five miles from Calcutta) I could not resist. +There was an extensive horse establishment, from which I obtained a +horse. I was never without a correct get-up, and, weighing something +under nine stone, was frequently offered a mount. + +[Sidenote: March.] + +My hunter, from Mr. Cook’s establishment, sent on, I drove in a buggy, +syce seated on the step. It was a bright and cheery meet. Jackals were +hunted instead of foxes, the latter being small, and not so fast. + +I was welcomed as an old sportsman. A find and a cheery “gone away,” my +horse inclined towards a wood on the right. He jumped a small nullah +against my will; the bit broke at the joint. My next recollection +was from a bed in Fort William, with my Captain and officers of both +services standing round. + +I soon recovered senses, but for some days was told to keep quiet. It +appears that my mount, after taking me across the nullah, bolted for +the wood, and my head striking a bough, brought me to the ground. + +The Tent Club had been kind enough to make me an honorary member. After +some days’ quiet enjoyment at Barrackpore, I returned to the city. On +my promising proper behaviour, I joined a small party. Stopford, a +merchant, was one. He was so like the Admiral, and naval relatives of +that name, I cottoned to him at once. + +On approaching the ground, we came on thirteen or fourteen elephants +tethered in regular order, with their attendants. Beyond were marquees, +arranged and fitted with every comfort of bed and baths that a +sportsman could wish. + +A large mess marquee stood out by itself, with passages for cooks and +attendants, and piles of ice, (brought to Calcutta by American ships). + +The country was open, with patches of jungle three or four acres in +extent. Our horses were tethered in the rear in such places as suited +the syces. + +The dinner alone was worth all I had yet seen: every luxury of soups; +capons as big as turkeys, curries equal to those at Madras. Drinks +of champagne and claret, but nothing appeared in greater demand than +Bass’s pale ale. Ices in every form: stories and songs till the small +hours, when the elders made a move. + +I was in a sound sleep, when the yells of jackals close by caused me +to jump up and seize my gun. As I got outside, voices called out: “You +can’t fire without hitting some one!” + +The procession to the jungle was quiet and decorous. After the +elephants, guided by their mahouts, who were also provided with +crackers, had entered the jungle, you could distinctly hear the boar +sharpening his tusks. + +The pig-stickers separated into pairs. Where a hog broke, the nearest +took up the running; the second followed close for turn and first spear. + +The spear at Calcutta was carried perpendicularly, point down. I +mention this, as, I believe, in Bombay the spear is carried under the +arm. + +I witnessed this noble sport for a couple of days, without being able +to join in it. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 11.] + +We were towed down the Hooghly by the _Enterprise_ steamer. + +[Sidenote: April 3.] + +Anchored off Malacca. + +[Sidenote: Singapore, April 4.] + +Came to in Singapore Roads. It was curious to find almost every +European down with influenza, and that within three degrees of the +equator! + +[Sidenote: April 6.] + +Our ships suffered, and several officers and men were invalided. (In +connection with this epidemic, it is of interest to note that the +disease was as universal as it has been in the latter part of this +century. 1833 was the great year of influenza in Europe, and although +communication was slow and infrequent, yet the disease travelled with +the same rapid defiance of distance as it does now--an argument in +favour of this mysterious malady being disseminated by atmospheric +influences.) + +[Sidenote: April 23.] + +Put to sea without delay, taking with us _Alligator_, _Wolf_, and +_Harrier_. + +[Sidenote: May 7.] + +We proceeded by Anjer Roads to Trincomalee, thence to Madras, where we +arrived the end of the month. + +[Sidenote: May 23.] + +At sunset we were again running for Trincomalee under all sail. The +wind strong enough to enable us to stem a two-knot current. + +At 10 P.M., just as the Captain came on deck, the breeze freshened and +veered to the starboard quarter. He turned the hands up, “Bring ship to +an anchor.” + +At 11 P.M. we shortened sail and came to. We were considered smart at +all sail work, Hutton managing, while yards were square, the starboard, +and I the port, side. + +[Sidenote: Trincomalee.] + +On the present occasion, the boatswain neglected to see the port +fore-tack properly overhauled. The consequence was that the clew on +Hutton’s side reached the quarter of the yard a few seconds before that +on my side! + +It was near midnight, sails furled and yards square. The Captain sent +for me to inquire why the port clew was not up at the same time as +that on starboard side. I told him that neither sheet nor tack had +been overhauled. He sent for the boatswain, who stated that he had +overhauled both with his own “’and.” + +The Captain addressed me, drawing my attention to the undoubted +fact, on which I expressed an opinion that my word was as good as +the boatswain’s. I was ordered to my cabin, under arrest. Everybody +appeared to be out of sorts, and, as it would have been my middle +watch, I was not sorry to turn in. The ship was soon refitted. + +[Sidenote: May 29.] + +Sailed for Madras; arrived 31st. + +[Sidenote: Madras, June.] + +On June 4 a mail from England arrived. The first down to my cabin to +congratulate me on promotion was the Captain. How the receipt of good +news alters people’s feelings! We were “brothers”; half an hour earlier +I could have done him an injury. I got a hearty welcome to share +generous John Company’s Naval House on the Mount Road. I scarcely knew +my own self. + +My commission as Commander was dated January 30, five months before +I heard of it. We had carousals on shore, and I heard after at some +dinner-party Hutton had sung his then famous song “John’s ale was new.” +On a remark of mine, he bet me £5 that he would not sing it again while +the _Magicienne_ was in commission. + +The ship was ordered to Calcutta, and the Captain had no authority to +discharge me. I therefore proposed that, after having seen him off, +I should write a despatch, stating that, having been promoted, and +finding a homeward-bound free-trader in the roads, I had taken passage +to England. + +[Sidenote: June 10.] + +_Magicienne_ sailed at daylight for Calcutta. For the first time I was +my own master. + +The Navy agents secured my passage. I passed most of the time with my +young kinsman, Henry Garnier, a Cornet in the 4th Light Cavalry, who, +in his turn, was much with Colonel Charles Macleane and that charming +family, in which was one particularly handsome daughter. A fortnight +passed rapidly and pleasantly, riding or tandem-driving. + +When I came to embark, I found that these kind, experienced friends +had sent me two chests, each containing six dozen bottles of pure +water, which was far more useful and grateful than the same amount of +champagne would have been. These chests the chief officer kindly stowed +conveniently for me. + +[Sidenote: June 26.] + +We sailed in _Claudine_. There were an agreeable set of passengers. We +sat down eighteen to dinner. + +[Sidenote: Table Bay, Aug. 15.] + +Arrived in Table Bay. We were startled, on running in, at seeing within +half a cable’s length ahead a small flag flying on what appeared to be +a rock, but proved to be a dead whale, the flag marking the owner. + +I had here a week of real enjoyment, visiting with my old friends, +besides getting two capital days’ hunting. On both occasions I was +awarded a brush. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 22.] + +Sailed. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 20.] + +At sunset landed with the other passengers by pilot vessel at +Portsmouth--one hundred and seventeen days from Madras. + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +ENGLAND + + +[Sidenote: 1833. October.] + +At what time of the year is England not enjoyable! + +My father had taken 12 Berkeley Square, which had an excellent +dining-room. He had also the Stud House in the Home Park. My kind host +of many years, the Duke of Sussex, was on a visit to Lord Dinorben. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 25.] + +An invitation from Colonel and Mrs. Grey--she was a sister of Lady +Dinorben--and an offer of mounts, besides the probability of meeting +my father, decided me on going to Brighton. I found the Greys such a +bright and cheery family. + +On our returning, after my first day with the harriers, Colonel Grey +spotted royal outriders. We had only time to pull up and off hats when +the King passed. + +On getting home, I found an invitation to dine at the Pavilion, where I +was glad to meet my father, who seemed to enjoy his active life. There +were fine buildings in Calcutta, but the Pavilion beat them. + +Both Majesties were present. They must have noticed my nervousness, and +were kind in proportion. + +The dining-hall was a magnificent room. High up in each corner were +huge golden dragons that appeared to float, but how supported I could +not make out. + +As my kind host and hostess showed no signs of being bored, and my +mounts appeared rather to improve, I held on to my comfortable quarters. + +[Sidenote: Nov.] + +One morning, when strolling near the Pavilion, I observed His Majesty +at the front-door, wrapped up for a drive, probably to enjoy the open +downs. I disappeared behind a projection from which I could not retreat. + +After a few minutes the carriage drove up, coachman in plain clothes, +no other servant. Before His Majesty got in, he addressed the coachman +in strong naval language. The man showed no more symptoms of vitality +than if he were a coat stuffed with straw. + +The King, after more nautical expressions, shook his fist, and told the +coachman that he would report him to the Master of the Horse--a threat +His Majesty did not carry out. + +Although the Duke of Sussex had recently returned to London, he was +too fond of shooting to miss a good day at Holkham, where a party had +assembled--woodcocks in plenty--and I accompanied him. + +Beyond the hour and place of meet, there was no particular arrangement. + +I was in the carriage with the Duke, and a good deal of firing was +going on when we arrived at the covert side. + +His Royal Highness had a new shooting-coat, with pockets enough to +hold many birds. While getting out of the carriage, a shower of shot +descended on the Prince’s hat and coat. He was excited, and seemed +anxious to find out who the culprit was. + +[Sidenote: Nov 23.] + +Luckily, I had not left the carriage, but my nephew, Archie MacDonald, +was not far off, and it was in vain he tried to assure His Royal +Highness that his gun had not been fired. + +Fox Maul,[4] an old Holkham favourite, forced his way out of the +covert, and addressed the Duke to the effect that Archie was very +nervous, and felt severely his rebuke, at the same time expressing how +grateful he should feel if His Royal Highness took no further notice of +the peppering he received, Fox Maul being the real culprit. + +[4] Afterwards Lord Panmure. + +Among the guests I remember the following: Lord and Lady Tavistock, +Earls Jermyn and Talbot, Lord and Lady Braybrooke, Lord and Lady +Suffield, Sir Ronald Ferguson, Sir Charles Clarke the famous doctor, +Mr. and Mrs. Stanhope. + +[Sidenote: 1834. January.] + +On the return of the Duke from a short visit to Lord Lichfield, I again +joined him, and towards the end of the month left for Kinmel, where we +remained during Christmas and New Year, returning to London on January +24. + +It would be possible to fill a volume of shore reminiscences, but as I +am writing the life of a sailor, much that might be interesting must be +omitted. + +[Sidenote: October.] + +Until the opening of the London season, their Majesties held Court at +Brighton. Almack’s balls were held there from October till February, +and the Grenadier Guards gave balls at the Albion. + +[Sidenote: Feb.] + +The Court having removed to London, I attended the first levee at St. +James’s on February 21. Taking advantage of the entrée accorded my +father (the rules being less strict than now), I was able to converse +with Prince Talleyrand, getting old, with gray hair falling over his +shoulders. Among the leaders of fashion were Count D’Orsay and my +kinsman, Tom Anson. + +[Sidenote: March.] + +The Stud House suited my father; he was fond of dogs, and Berkeley +Square did not afford sufficient exercise. + +Hampton Court was close by. The family of Admiral Sir George Seymour +occupied the southern wing of the Palace. Although Sir George had led a +sailor’s life from boyhood, there was no more aristocratic-looking man +in the peerage. I had his biography by heart. + +It was as a Lieutenant on board Rear-Admiral Cochrane’s ship, the +_Northumberland_, 74, February 6, 1806, in the action off St. Domingo, +that a grape shot carried away several teeth. The wound, instead +of disfiguring, rather added interest to his handsome face. Sir +George married, 1811, Georgina Mary, second daughter of Admiral Hon. +Sir George Berkeley. I frequently dined and enjoyed much pleasant +intercourse with the family. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 10.] + +His Majesty, with a large party, came from Windsor to inspect the +stud and paddocks at Hampton Court. The Master of the Horse had no +difficulty in finding me a mount. It was a fine day, and everybody +enjoyed himself. + +On entering the gates, the King addressed the keeper by saying: “Mr. +Worley, Eclipse, you and I were born in the same year.” Whether +perfectly correct or not, the compliment was the same, and pleased +everybody. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 12.] + +His Majesty held a levee. I was fond of these ceremonies, and +accompanied the Master of the Horse where I might. + +[Sidenote: April 17.] + +Almack’s balls were removed from Brighton to Willis’s Rooms, St. +James’s. + +[Sidenote: May.] + +The Maynard family from Paris created a sensation. They were not only +uncommonly handsome, but peculiar. They had a brother in the Blues, +whose friendship I established; but in the middle of my little game +I found myself appointed to the command of the _Childers_, 16, which +my brother-in-law, Harry Stephenson, had obtained for me through his +friend the Hon. George Dundas, a Sea Lord. One of the signatures to my +appointment was that of Sir Thomas Hardy. I think my kind patron felt +the wrong he had done His Majesty’s service, as he recommended my not +appearing at the Admiralty, and, as the Board were kind enough to allow +me to nominate the commissioned officers, there was no occasion to go +there. + +[Sidenote: May 17.] + +Sir James Graham presented me at the levée on my appointment to the +_Childers_. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +THE _CHILDERS_ BRIG + + +[Sidenote: 1834. May.] + +The _Childers_ brig was lying in dock at Portsmouth. + +The First Lieutenant, George Goldsmith, had been serving in the +_Madagascar_ frigate, under that distinguished officer, the Hon. Sir +Robert Spencer, who was succeeded by another equally good Captain, +Edmund Lyons. + +The Second Lieutenant, Grey Skipwith, was just promoted out of the +_Royal George_ yacht--a smart fellow in every way, son of a grand old +sporting baronet, who lived at Newbold Hall, Warwickshire. + +Jonas Coaker, my old shipmate in the _Tweed_, was Master; a finer +seaman never broke a biscuit. + +Goldsmith and I found the brig in dock, but not afloat. A small staff, +with a yard and a half of narrow bunting, was secured to the taffrail, +and H.M.S. _Childers_ declared to be in commission. + +Reported the auspicious event to the Commander-in-Chief, Admiral Sir +Thomas Williams, G.C.B., and afterwards to Sir F. L. Maitland, K.C.B., +Admiral Superintendent. + +The next step was a pole, with the Union Jack suspended out of the +first-floor window of the Bedford-in-Chase, on the Hard. + +“His Majesty’s ship _Childers’_ Rendezvous.” + +Lost no time in issuing hand-bills to the following effect:-- + + “Wanted, Petty Officers and Able Seamen for + His Majesty’s ship _Childers_. + + COMMANDER HENRY KEPPEL. + + Now fitting for the Mediterranean Station. + _N.B._--None but the RIGHT SORT need apply.” + +These were posted at all the large seaports. + +I secured lodgings on the “Hard”; feeding was accomplished at the +“Keppel’s Head.” + +The Admiral Superintendent took great interest in the fitting-out, and +kindly acceded to all my fancies. He selected the _Topaze_ for use as +a hulk, and substituted a tiller for the wheel. The brig was of great +beam, giving spread for her rigging and stability to her spars. The +figure-head was that of a horse, apparently with his lower jaw broken. +This I gilded over, and on the bows of the boats had a representation +of a horse winning the Derby. The ship was painted white inside, with +green rails to hammock netting, port-cells black. My means of fitting +out were small, but what worried me most was the average pound a day I +had to pay for postage, while there was a ridiculous idea that persons +would take offence if letters were prepaid. Crossing the Border cost an +extra sixpence. My letters were chiefly from anxious parents. + +[Sidenote: June.] + +Lord Yarborough, President of the Royal Yacht Squadron, took great +interest in our fitting, and passed many an hour on board giving me +useful hints. On Saturdays all Captains fitting-out were invited to his +beautiful place at Apple-de-Coombe, in the Isle of Wight, to remain +over Sunday. After church we went to his son’s (Dudley Pelham) lovely +place, St. Lawrence, on the South Coast. + +Lord Yarborough kindly put my name down for ballot as an honorary +member of the Yacht Squadron Club, on which list I may now boast of +being the senior member. We were well and quickly manned. + +[Sidenote: July 10.] + +Captain Charles Napier arrived at Spithead as a Portuguese Admiral, +flying his flag in the _Duchess of Braganza_. Commander William Holt +was ordered a passage to join _Scout_. + +[Sidenote: July 28.] + +11.30 A.M.--Cast off from hulk and worked out to Spithead; saluted flag +of Sir Frederick Maitland. + +[Sidenote: July 30.] + +Weighed, and stood out of St. Helens. + +[Sidenote: July 31.] + +Came to in Plymouth Sound 10 P.M.; saluted flag of Admiral Sir William +Hargood. + +[Sidenote: August 2.] + +5 A.M.--Weighed and made sail. My cabin was 9 feet from bulkhead to +bulkhead, not leaving much room for the swing of cots. + +Crossing the bay we were pitching, and, to make my guest more +comfortable, I had the fore-topgallant sail taken in. However, every +now and then his cot struck both bulkheads. + +I was thinking of shortening sail, when the sentry’s bell rang: Holt +sent for the officer of the watch, and ordered the main-topgallant sail +to be taken in. But before the officer was clear of the door, I told +him to keep fast the main, and to set the fore-topgallant sail, at +which my _Childers_ began to jump and plunge in a manner that caused me +to think both bulkheads must be battened down. + +If I have any shore-going readers, I should explain, though Holt was my +senior by ten years, having no pennant flying, he could not dictate to +me. When I was satisfied he was aware who commanded, I shortened sail. +We were always good friends after. + +[Sidenote: August 5.] + +Exchanged numbers with _Stag_, 46, commanded by Nicholas Lockyer, a +character. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 12.] + +Arrived in Tangiers Roads, the dominion of the Emperor of Morocco, +where I delivered despatches to the Consul-General, Mr. Edward +Drummond, and then proceeded to Gibraltar, seeing for the first time +the great fortified rock, of whose power one is unaware until exploring +the numerous galleries and recesses containing heavy guns, most of them +not seen from the sea. My time was so short that I was only able to +write my name in the book of General, Earl of Chatham, at the Convent. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 28.] + +Arrived at Malta 2 A.M., and, profiting by Goldsmith’s experience, made +fast to a buoy off the dockyard; on no occasion did we let go an anchor +in that harbour. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 29.] + +Saluted the flag of Admiral Superintendent Sir Thomas Briggs. Later +on, passing my glass round the harbour, I descried, on a projecting +balcony, the fair forms of Emma and Emily Hunn, now just out of their +teens, their father, my earliest chief, being Port Captain. On landing +I was received with a kind and hearty welcome. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 2.] + +I was soon sent on to join the Commander-in-Chief, and sailed September +2. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 12.] + +On the 12th we rounded Cape Karabonu. Not finding the fleet, ran on +for Smyrna, where I found _Endymion_, Sir Samuel Roberts; _Mastiff_, +_Beacon_, and the _Hind_ cutter, which latter, being a slow sailer, was +commonly called “The Behind.” + +At Smyrna communicated with Sir Samuel Roberts, who ordered me back to +Vourla. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 13.] + +On the morning of the 13th the fleet hove in sight. We saluted the flag +of that gallant and distinguished man, Vice-Admiral Sir Josias Rowley, +Bart., flying on board the _Caledonia_, 120, Captain T. Brown. + +With the flag were five ships of the line the commissions of whose +Captains were dated before I was born: The _Edinburgh_, 74, Captain +Richard Dacres (January 1806); _Caledonia_, 120, Captain Thomas Brown +(January 1802); _Thunderer_, 84, W. Wise (May 1806); _Canopus_, 84, +Hon. Jos. Percy (September 1806); _Talavera_, 74, E. Chetham (October +1807). Of these, _Caledonia_, three-decker, was the most imposing. +_Canopus_ was a French ship, by far the handsomest, as well as the +fastest sailer. She carried a glass star above the truck, which on a +sunshiny day could be seen long before a vestige of the fleet. The +_Edinburgh_ was a fine ship. _Thunderer_, a finer, but last from +England, and likely to be second to none. _Talavera_, not much to look +at, but improving. _Malabar_, 74, Captain Sir William Montague, was +away to the westward, a most comfortable and happy ship. The _Vernon_, +38, finest frigate in the world, and exceeding in beam any of the +line-of-battle ships built by Sir William Symonds. _Tribune_, 24, +razéed frigate. I did not think much of her or her Captain. _Volage_, +24, donkey frigate, with George Martin, the best of good fellows, as +Captain. There were _Tyne_, 28, a good fellow as Captain, Lord Ingestre +(was much with him later, on coast of Spain), and six smaller vessels, +of which _Childers_ was one, constantly on the move. + +While lying here I was joined by a very smart youngster from the Naval +College, Edward Rice. + +While with the flag we were not allowed to be idle, and continued +trials of rates of sailing on a wind. We held our own, as the +_Childers_ was quick in stays. This was great fun for a while. But we +all knew that there was scarcely a bush on shore that did not hold a +woodcock. + +[Sidenote: October.] + +Of course, there was rivalry throughout. _Caledonia_ had the advantage +of being chief, and knowing what next would be done. _Canopus_ followed +our style of paint, and looked perfection, but on our returning from +a sea-voyage, _Edinburgh_ and _Thunderer_ were the first to hoist +boom-boats out, and fill us smaller craft with stores, water, and +provisions. Weighed and made sail, _Madagascar_ in company. We beat her +in short tacks working out of the bay. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 15.] + +Came to in Lante Bay. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 19.] + +A fresh steamer, the _Spitfire_, arrived with despatches; we sailed to +rejoin the Admiral. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 24.] + +Weighed at daylight, and worked for Vourla Bay. 1.30 P.M.--Came to in +11 fathoms in centre of the fleet. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 5.] + +Weighed at daylight with _Scout_, _Columbine_, and _Medea_ to try rates +of sailing. _Scout_ bound to Alexandria; being senior, and not able to +keep up, gave us permission to part company at sunset. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 6.] + +Just before sunset, coming on to blow from the northward, stood in +between Augusta and Green Islands until jib-boom was over the land, and +let go the anchor in 4 fathoms. + +_Columbine_, following close, let go her anchor close on our starboard +quarter, without finding bottom, and so drifted out to sea and deep +water for the night, with bower cable out to the clinch to heave in. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 7.] + +Weighed at daylight and joined the _Columbine_, who had been all night +recovering her anchor. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 8.] + +Came to in Vourla Bay, with a few days’ comparative rest. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 10.] + +Weighed in company with _Caledonia_, _Medea_, and _Columbine_, to try +rate of sailing. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 27.] + +Returned to Vourla Bay, and came to in 8 fathoms. Arrived _Malabar_, +74, Captain Sir William Montague. + +It being necessary for me to write to the Admiral, found I could not +avail myself of the services of the clerk, he having both his eyes +stopped up by a promising young master’s assistant, one William King +Hall, called by his messmates Jacko. Accidents will happen in the best +regulated families. + +About this time some of the ships were short of the junior class of +officers. + +The _Talavera_ had no midshipmen. I explained this little accident of +my clerk’s eyes to Captain Chetham, and with the consent of the kind +chief, my friend Jacko was transferred to the _Talavera_ with the +superior rank of midshipman. From that position he raised himself to +the highest rank. We were friends until his untimely end, and he has +left two sons in the service who do credit to a parent, and a pretty, +now married, daughter. + +After joining flag, we had a week’s quiet in Vourla Bay, which gave me +an opportunity of improving my acquaintance with the Captains of the +fleet, to say nothing of shooting. Plenty of hares and woodcock were to +be found. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 29.] + +Sailed from Vourla Bay, charged with despatches. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 8.] + +Arrived at Malta Harbour. We were not long there, being sent with +stores and provisions for the _Favourite_. After men’s dinner slipped +from buoy, and the following afternoon came to in Tripoli Roads. In +addition to _Favourite_, found French, Turkish, and Neapolitan ships of +war. At sunset I had to follow the motions of my senior officer, and +struck lower yards and topmasts. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 8.] + +Next morning found civil affairs on shore not quite right. The late +Pasha “Youssuf” Corromanli, who had obtained possession of the +Government by murdering his elder brother, and now, to save his own +head, abdicated in favour of his son Ali, as great a scoundrel as +himself, the rightful and legitimate heir being a son of an older +brother of Ali’s (since dead). + +The majority of the people had chosen a fine fellow--one Emhammud--to +be their Sovereign. While Ali held possession of the town, Emhammud had +the country round, and the forts that flanked the roads. + +Each party declared the other in a state of blockade, and expended much +powder. Emhammud liked the English; Ali preferred the French. I visited +both pretenders. The English Consul, Colonel Warrington, had two +houses, one in the country. The town-house had had a shell burst inside +it, and the roof was afterwards made bomb-proof. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 10.] + +Having been informed by my friend Mundy that his gig, with flag flying, +which had preceded me, was sufficient protection from both sides, I +landed in my gig at a rickety pier to visit the Consul, when a round +shot from the outside party cut the body of an honest trader in two. +He was landing some innocent bit of cargo within five yards of where +I stood. The victim was one of Ali’s party, and his death caused much +howling and lamentation from the top of the minarets. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 12.] + +Saluted Colonel Warrington on his visiting the ship. Of my friend +Mundy, as a whip, I did not think much; but when clear of the town +the desert sands were level, and the date-fruit ripe. I took one of +my smallest mids, Comber, with us to fill, or rather occupy, the back +seat. On returning to the town, Mundy not allowing room enough, the +off wheel caught the corner of a wall, bringing the whole affair +to grief. My middy, being light, cleared the opposite walk, and was +landed in a seraglio garden while the ladies were taking their evening +exercise. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 13.] + +Warrington had a wife and daughter, and was much respected; Comber was +released without coming to further grief. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 14.] + +Having received verbal orders to return immediately, I had a boat +anchored on the only outer rock that could interfere with _Childers_, +although aware of the kind hospitality of our Consul, who had a +small brass band to add to the hilarity of the evening. Safe of a +land breeze, I sloped off in the middle watch without being seen. The +senior officer, next morning, found no vessel to “follow motions.” + +[Sidenote: Dec. 17.] + +Light winds. It took us two days to reach Malta. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 20.] + +Slipped and made sail from buoy to rejoin fleet. Deck loaded with +stores for the different messes. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 25.] + +Weighed at daylight from Cape Colonna and made sail with topgallant +masts on deck. Hugged the land. Passed between English Island and the +main, and got through the Douro passage without a tack. The islands and +Negro Point covered with snow to the water’s edge. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 27.] + +Came to in Vourla Bay. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +THE _CHILDERS_ + + +[Sidenote: 1835. Jan. 5.] + +On January 5 we were ordered to precede the fleet with despatches +for Malta. Weather looking dirty, took two reefs in the topsails; +topgallant sails over. Before getting clear of Vourla Bay, we had to +weather Cape Karabonu. Breeze freshening and sea getting up; wet fore +and aft. However, we were battened down as tight as a bottle. + +About noon an extra heavy squall struck the brig, throwing her on her +beam ends; main yard under water. The First Lieutenant, Goldsmith, +standing on the hammock-netting, holding on to the topmast backstay, +was thrown off his legs. He sang out: “Put the helm up!” + +I, sticking to the weather-quarter like a limpet, called out, I am +afraid: “The helm be d----d! I see the keel.” + +For a few seconds, which appeared like minutes, the brig lay like a +log. The squall over, the tight little craft righted, but with loss +of half-ports, hammock-netting and rails, port watch of hammocks, +harness-cask, and everything movable from under the forecastle. The +wind had shifted to a fair point, and in a few minutes we were running +free, under all sail. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 12.] + +Arrived at Malta on 12th. Secured to a buoy in the Quarantine Harbour, +with nineteen days to ride out; time to refit. Shortly afterwards the +fleet, with Commander-in-Chief, arrived in the Grand Harbour. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 28.] + +On the morning of the 28th, having reported “brig ready,” quarantine +expired. Signal was made for “boats to tow,” which always caused an +amount of emulation from the vast number of ships. Not only were two +tow-ropes passed along, but the leading boats were partly up the Grand +before the _Childers_ was clear of the Quarantine Harbour. + +“Helm be d----d! I see the keel,” was my greeting from the old Captains. + +On securing to a buoy, we were not a little proud of our brig. I knew +that all idle glasses were fixed on her. Such ships as were ready had +sails loosed to air or dry. Of course, it was important that _Childers_ +should “follow motions.” + +On the sails being let fall, two great rats dropped out of the bunt of +our mainsail, showing a hole you might push your fist through. One rat +dropped into the chains, the other overboard. But, as Jack remarked, +“they had not got pratique,” and were knocked on the head. However, +that did not save me from the chaff of my brother small craft for +having reported “_Childers_ ready.” + +[Sidenote: Feb. 3.] + +_Tribune_, 24, arrived from Smyrna with despatches from our Ambassador +at Constantinople, requiring the presence of the fleet again to the +eastward. + +Signal made, “Prepare for sea.” Many of the ships were dismantled; some +had even their tanks on shore. Every ship was, however, ready within +forty-eight hours. Owing to northerly winds, they were detained until +the afternoon of the 8th, when the _Medea_ and _Confiance_ steamers +towed them out. + +At 8 P.M. the fleet made sail, forming in two lines; small craft on +flag’s weather beam. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 11.] + +Ran through Cerigo passage; sailed between Zea and Therima; through the +Douro passage on 12th, and outside Ipsera. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 13.] + +Made sail per signal to proceed to Smyrna. Wind headed after rounding +Cape Karabonu. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 14.] + +Hove to off Smyrna. Saluted French Commodore, communicated with Consul, +filled and made sail. Observed fleet at anchor in Vourla Bay; signal +made, “Keep under way”; communicated with Admiral, and returned to +Smyrna with despatches. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 15.] + +Rejoined flag. High land covered with snow. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 20.] + +4 P.M.--Rounded Cape Karabonu, ran through Scio passage, and shaped +course for Anti-Milo. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 25.] + +Running along shore, observed a United States man-of-war coming out of +Navarino Harbour. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 8.] + +Ran into Milo Harbour, in order that the pilot (Mitchelle) might see +his wife. Met the “Behind” cutter coming out. Ran between Serpho and +Siphanto. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 10.] + +I need not bother my kind readers with the number of times _Childers_ +had to pass through this beautiful Archipelago; no yachtsman could have +enjoyed himself more. + +[Sidenote: Malta, Mar. 17.] + +Worked up the Quarantine Harbour; found _Favourite_ and _Columbine_. + +[Sidenote: April 22.] + +Slipped from the buoy, made sail, having been ordered to Dardanelles +with despatches for our Ambassador at Constantinople. + +As I had to go to Malta before rejoining the fleet, Captain Percy, of +the _Canopus_, had asked me to bring back his kinsman, young Drummond, +to whom Ingestre had given a passage in the _Tyne_. I mention his name +here, for Drummond, a promising young Guardsman, was the cause of +doing away with the mastheading of midshipmen--a good old custom, which +had been in existence long before I was born. + +The case was this. One day at sea, Ingestre sent a mid to the gunroom +to say he wished to speak to Drummond, who was playing backgammon, +and delayed obeying the summons until he finished his game. When he +appeared, Ingestre told him that on board a man-of-war orders must be +obeyed, and, in joke, said he would next time send him to the masthead. +On which Drummond replied he would see the Captain blowed first! +Ingestre hailed the main-top, and ordered a hauling-line to be sent +down. + +Henry Murray, one of the Lieutenants, seeing his Captain had been put +out, advised Drummond to mount just a few steps of the rigging, and he +would accompany him. Which advice being followed, the matter ought to +have ended. + +The story was talked about in Malta as an amusing joke, but in London +was viewed differently. The incident was referred to in Parliament. +Lord Brougham put the question to Lord Auckland, as to an “outrage” +alleged to have been committed by a Captain in the Navy, in respect to +a gentleman who was a passenger on board his ship on the Mediterranean +station. + +Lord Auckland said the whole thing rested on vague rumour; if brought +before him, he should consider it his duty to act on the advice of +those he should feel it necessary to consult. Lord Colville hoped +their lordships would draw no such inferences from newspaper reports. +The Lords Melville, Beresford, Salisbury, and other peers spoke. +Subsequently an order was issued from the Admiralty prohibiting +mastheading as a punishment, which the class of officer to whom only +it could apply greatly regretted. I always found a seat on the fore +topmast cross-tree, with a book, far preferable to walking the lee side +of the quarter-deck, with the main try-sail set. + +[Sidenote: April 29.] + +At daylight observed a fleet to leeward, consisting of a ship of the +line, and twenty-three others of different sizes. As they did not seem +inclined to show colours, stood into the centre of them, when they +hoisted the Turkish flag, on which I fired a royal salute. They were +bound to Tripoli with troops to quell the insurrection. + +[Sidenote: April 30.] + +Came to in Basaika Bay. + +[Sidenote: May 1.] + +Rode with attendants and despatches to the Consul of the Dardanelles, +Mr. C. A. Lander. Finding the plague raging, returned same day, a +forty-four miles’ ride. Weather intensely hot. + +[Sidenote: May 4.] + +Weighed, and came to abreast the ruins of Alexandria--Troy--having +left the pinnace to await the _Courier_ from Constantinople. Visiting +Basaika Bay afforded endless amusement in picnics and searching for +antiquities. From the ruins of the marble palaces of Troy the Turks +made the huge round shot for their Dardanelles guns. Our youngsters +made collections of ancient Greek coins: good imitations imported from +Birmingham. + +[Sidenote: May 8.] + +Despatches having arrived, sailed. + +[Sidenote: May 12.] + +Between Zea and Long Island communicated with _Portland_, 52, Captain +David Price, the same good fellow who ended his promising career off +Petropaulooski, in the North Pacific Ocean. + +[Sidenote: May 15.] + +Joined the fleet off Cape St. Angelo. Received orders to proceed to the +Piræus for pratique. + +1 P.M.--Came to close to the beach in Epidamas Bay in 6 fathoms. Brig +swinging by attaching a hawser to a tree on shore, into 3 fathoms. +Smooth water, and good watering-place in rainy weather. In dry weather +the water is turned off for the purpose of irrigation. + +[Sidenote: May 21.] + +Came to in the Bay of Salamis. Found, in addition to our own fleet, +four French and two Russian men-of-war. + +[Sidenote: May 28.] + +Fleet visited by King Otho of Greece. Manned yards and fired royal +salute. + +1 P.M.--Fired a royal salute in honour of the birthday of King William +IV. + +[Sidenote: June 1.] + +It being King Otho’s birthday, dressed ship and fired royal salute. His +Majesty was this day proclaimed at Athens; an interesting ceremony, the +Admiral, Captains, and Commanders attending. We afterwards dined with +His Majesty. + +[Sidenote: June 6.] + +1.30 P.M.--Weighed in company with the fleet on a cruise. Rendezvous +off Pigeon Island, south of Paros. + +[Sidenote: June 10.] + +An enjoyable excursion with the fleet to Anti-Paros, famous for its +immense caves and beautiful stalactites. Best seen from an inner cave +of considerable height. Admiral, all the Captains, and many officers +assembled. The blue-jackets managed to fix a rope ladder to the +upper cave; how they managed it I did not see, but up the ladder the +Commander-in-Chief and Captains ascended, according to seniority. Most +of their commissions dated prior to my birth. Had the ladder given way, +the chances were that I should have had to command the fleet. However, +the sight was splendid. + +[Sidenote: June 11.] + +At daylight weighed in company with the fleet. Worked between the +islands; came to in 8½ fathoms in Strongiolo Bay. + +[Sidenote: June 15.] + +Syra; saluted Consul on his coming on board. Weighed, and took him and +his family out to the fleet. Hove to while they visited the Admiral. +Received orders to proceed to Zante to meet the mail. + +[Sidenote: June 22.] + +Arrived _Orestes_ with Lord High Commissioner (Sir Howard Douglas) on +board. Fired salute of 19 guns. + +[Sidenote: June 23.] + +The High Commissioner did me the honour to visit the brig; saluted him. +Arrived _Confiance_ with the mails. + +[Sidenote: June 24.] + +5 P.M.--Sailed to rejoin the fleet. Rejoined the flag at sunset off +Cape Matapan; fresh breeze. Ordered round the fleet to deliver letters. + +[Sidenote: July.] + +Hove to and communicated with _Columbine_. Parted company to rejoin the +fleet in Kalamanta Bay. + +[Sidenote: July 8.] + +Weighed in company with the fleet, steering in the direction of Malta. +During the passage we had repeated trials with _Vernon_, Captain John +McKerlie, _Portland_, _Endymion_, Captain Sir Samuel Roberts, and +“Behind” cutter. + +In light breezes we had the advantage, in strong the _Vernon_ by far +the best. _Endymion_ always bad, and _Portland_ worse. + +[Sidenote: July 17.] + +Ran into Malta and made fast to a buoy, rejoining fleet off Cerigo. + +[Sidenote: July 28.] + +_Volage_ and self to windward of the flagship; at daylight, while +washing decks, ropes coiled up; hove to to keep station. _Volage_ up in +the wind, got sternway, and cut our flying jib-boom off at the cap. + +At 9 A.M. _Thunderer_ asked permission to communicate with _Childers_. +Permission being granted, _Thunderer_ signalled, “Dimensions of spar.” + +At 4 P.M. she signalled to _Childers_, “Spar completed.” Permission +given to pick up spar, which I observed towing astern of _Thunderer_ by +deep-sea line. It was in its proper place and sails set by the time we +recovered station. + +Rode out twelve days’ quarantine, fleet taking guardians and cruising +outside. + +[Sidenote: July 30.] + +Joined the fleet at daylight, they having stood to the eastward in +company with the United States squadron, consisting of the _Delaware_, +_Potomac_, _Constellation_, and _Shark_. Our fleet beat them sailing. + +[Sidenote: July 31.] + +In the afternoon, having been invited by signal to dine with the +Admiral, stood out on the starboard tack, intending to pass under the +stern of flagship, she with the fleet being hove to, Admiral leading +in-shore line. + +Just when my newly-painted _Childers_ was halfway off, signal was made, +“Air bedding.” Not liking to cover my ship with the dust of some 800 +hammocks, turned to Coaker and said, “I shall pass ahead of the flag.” + +Jonas looked doubtful. + +Had all but succeeded, when, standing on the weather hammock-netting, I +observed the pressure of _Caledonia’s_ flying jib-boom scraping across +the belly of our main topsail. When within two cloths of the lee-leach, +the canvas gave way, but the leach rope would not. By this time the +flagship had stern way, but too late; jib and flying jib-boom were +snapped off close to the cap, and dropped into the water. Conceive the +position of the junior Commander of the fleet! + +I stood on, tacked and wore, shifted the topsail, and hove to under +the lee quarter of the Admiral: went on board. The little performance +in shifting the main topsail within five minutes of the accident +gained the admiration of the old Captains. Instead of abuse, I was +congratulated by all, with the exception of the Flag Captain, Brown. +I could hardly realise all the kind feelings until I had reported +myself to the Admiral, who kindly remarked, “Commander Keppel, there is +nothing like experience for a young officer. You will not again attempt +to pass ahead of a line-of-battle ship hove to. When her main topsail +is pressing against the mast, she has generally some headway on her. +Come in to dinner.” + +My spirits were restored by a glass of wine. The Captains continued +their congratulations, but Brown never forgave me! + +[Sidenote: Aug. 14.] + +Came to off the Castle Corfu. Secured our cable on shore at the arsenal. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 17.] + +Lord High Commissioner gave a grand ball to the navy. Ordered to meet +the mail at Zante afterwards. At no other place did our mids enjoy +themselves more. One Jacky Day, with more money than other youngsters, +sported a drag, which he drove down the steep hills, over loose stones +and sharp turnings, without coming to grief. + +Following the troop of boys, saw my youngest pet mid, Edward Rice, roll +over and over with his pony. Thought he must have been killed, but he +was none the worse. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 21.] + +On reaching Zante found the mail from England. Proceeded with it to +rejoin the fleet. Late in the afternoon, breeze freshening, observed +a small pleasure-boat plunging under reefed sail. On closing, near +dinner-time, persuaded her occupants to come on board, promising to tow +their boat. + +They proved to be Colonel Brown and Captain Lawrence, of the Rifle +Brigade, who had come across from Cephalonia, likewise to get their +letters. Landed them next morning at their port. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 22.] + +On my rejoining the fleet with the mail, found the Commander-in-Chief +had received orders to send _Malabar_, _Endymion_, _Tribune_, and +_Childers_ to the coast of Spain. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 23.] + +After dining with the Admiral and Captains, took leave with regret of +my kind and indulgent friends. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +THE CARLIST QUESTION + + +[Sidenote: 1835. Aug. 30.] + +Ran into Quarantine Harbour, Malta; completed stores, provisions, etc. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 1.] + +Left Malta, and on the 12th came up with _Malabar_ and _Endymion_, +standing out of the straits. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 14.] + +Joined company; with them came to in Cadiz Harbour. Found _Harlequin_, +Lord Vernon’s beautiful yacht, built by Symonds. + +The wife of our senior officer, Sir William Montague, had a house in +Cadiz, where parties were given by this charming lady. She also got up +picnics, and other amusements. + +We visited Xeres, from whence our “sherry,” and saw barefooted natives, +cigarette in mouth, treading out the juice of the grape. My interest +was cut short by _Childers_ being ordered to Lisbon, under command of +Sir William Gage. Before, however, reaching that distinguished officer +I met _Endymion_, and was ordered back to the Mediterranean. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 11.] + +Came to inside the Mole at Gibraltar. From the Captain of the _Tribune_ +received orders to visit Consuls and obtain information at the ports +along the south coast of Spain. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 14.] + +Stood over to Algeciras for a clean bill of health, otherwise we +should have been subject to seven days’ quarantine, although Malaga +is in daily communication by land. The health officer, to show his +knowledge of the English language, had our bill of health made for “Los +Niños, Bergantine Inglese,” which answered our purpose as well. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 16.] + +Arrived at Malaga. A few words are necessary to explain the political +situation. + +The late King, Ferdinand VII., died in 1833, having married in 1829 +Doña Christina of Naples. A Princess, Isabella, was born in 1830, when +Ferdinand, by “pragmatic sanction,” abolished the Salic Law in Spain, +and appointed the Infanta Isabella heir to the throne. This act was +disputed by his brothers, Dons Carlos and Francisco. + +On the death of Ferdinand, 1833, the small Isabella was proclaimed +Queen, her mother Christina being appointed Queen-Regent. Don Carlos at +once asserted his right to maintain the Salic Law, and was supported +by some of the old nobility. The peasantry were led by the clergy, who +followed Don Carlos. + +Lord Palmerston was Prime Minister, and carried the quadruple alliance +with him. His orders to the Admiral in the Mediterranean were explicit +and to the point. Subjects of Queen Isabella requiring help could claim +it from the English ships. This was denied to the followers of Don +Carlos, who was carrying on war against the Christina party with some +success in the northern provinces. + +In the south, the so-called “Patriots” were endeavouring to revert +to the Constitution of 1812, when the Salic Law had first been +established, and by provisional Juntas superseded Doña Isabella’s +authority. + +The Government at Madrid was now in the hands of Queen Christina’s +party. + +[Sidenote: Malaga.] + +The Governor of Malaga, as well as in other large towns, had been +appointed by the Carlist Party. Until of late the Constitution of +1812 had been popular. In August last, the same day on which the +insurrection at Barcelona broke out, a Junta was formed here. There +were not more than seventy of the regular troops, who were quartered in +a convent. + +The National Guard, 15,000 strong, were well equipped, and supplied +with arms and ammunition from the Government stores. The batteries +mounted 27 guns, of which 15 were serviceable. + +There were no Spanish vessels of war at Malaga; only an armed revenue +squadron, consisting of two schooners of 12 guns each, with crews +of sixty and seventy men, three lateen-rigged boats, 1 gun and two +carronades, from thirty to fifty men, and other small craft which were +occasionally troublesome to our Gibraltar smugglers. + +With plenty to occupy our attention, and a kind Consul, who had a wife +and four charming daughters, we were loth to leave. + +The Junta was not of long duration. They had expressed their intention +to disarm a portion of the urban militia, in order to equip a regiment +formed of convicts. The urbans encamped themselves outside the town, +and declared the Junta dissolved. + +The peasantry entered the town this morning, demanded three prisoners, +who they declared to be Carlists, took and shot them without +opposition. The victims were, I believe, chiefs of banditti, but they +had been pardoned from Madrid. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 20.] + +Anchored off Almeira. A Junta had been established here. The Governor +and Commandant of the forces, and other heads of departments, had +wisely made themselves scarce on the first news of the revolution. No +blood had been shed. We went on, and arrived at Alicante on the 22nd. + +There is a large English population here of well-to-do merchants, with +a zealous, active Consul, Mr. Waring, whom we saluted. The prevailing +feeling appeared to be more Carlist; the “vivas” for the Queen at the +theatre were faint. + +The ex-Carlist Captain-General, Valentine Ferraz, is the guest of the +Governor, Don Diego. The gates of the town are closed at sunset. + +The theatre is a small, neat building; between the acts revolutionary +songs were sung, which gave one an opportunity of observing the +political feeling of the natives. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 27.] + +Watered at Althea, close to the shore. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 30.] + +Came to off Valencia. _Tyne_ arriving same time. + +While on the coast of Spain I was frequently in company with the +_Tyne_, consequently under the orders of Lord Ingestre, and enjoyed the +society of Lady Sarah and her young family. + +The children had been in the habit of romping with their uncle, Lord +James Beresford, and transferred to me the name of “Jimmie,” by which +the late Lord Shrewsbury called me to the end of his life. Lady Sarah +was second to none I had ever seen. (Only lately I sat between her +grand- and great-grand-daughters at dinner, both ladies inheriting the +beauty of their ancestress.) + +In the neighbourhood of the town are marshes, with wild-fowl, where +Ingestre and I had some good sport. Having been placed by the native +keepers in a commodious punt, hidden by rushes,--in the stern of which +sat Lady Sarah, with a good luncheon,--a fleet of sham ducks moored +within our reach, our sporting guides disappeared. Shortly afterwards +clouds of wild-fowl were on the wing, surveying the position of our +retreat, with the quiet traitor ducks apparently at feed. Presently, +down they dropped with a grand splash. Both our double-barrelled +muzzle-loading guns, with copper cap-locks, were emptied three times +before the fun was over. We bagged ten and a half couple. + +It appears that, by some preconcerted means, August 5, the date on +which disturbances broke out at Barcelona, was the same at Malaga, +Alicante, and elsewhere. Groups of men assembled in the streets, +declaring war against the Carlists, in consequence of excessive +cruelties said to have been committed by them on the adherents of the +Queen. The Captain-General, Ferraz, accompanied by a strong escort, +endeavoured to quell this disturbance, but was unsuccessful, inasmuch +as his troops refused to act against the people. He was accordingly +deposed, and General the Comte Almadova appointed by the mob in his +stead. Almadova, in obedience to the populace, had seven of the +principal Carlists, then under the safeguard of the law, put to death, +and the remainder transported to the Philippine Islands. + +General Cabrera had put to death sixty partisans at Rubielo. This +disaster arose from the circumstance of General Nogueras, who +commanded the Queen’s troops, having ordered the Governor of Tortosa +to seize Doña Cabrera, a lady seventy years of age, and put her to +death, in retaliation for the deeds of her son. The Governor refused +to obey so inhuman a command, upon which Nogueras appealed to Mina, +Captain-General of Catalonia, who directed that the order should be +carried out, and Doña Cabrera was shot in the public square of Tortosa. +Mina was remonstrated with from Madrid, and Nogueras deprived of his +command. + +Cabrera, smarting at the murder of his mother, raised a following, +and thus added another insurgent force to those already harassing the +Government. + +In the meantime Almadova’s influence waned. The people assembled round +his palace, threatening his life. He went into hiding. Two days later +a counter-revolution brought him back to favour. His first act was to +arrest his enemies and transport them to the Philippines. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 1.] + +Sailed in company with _Tyne_ for Tarragona, arriving there on the 6th. +Found _Tribune_, from whom I got orders to return to Gibraltar to meet +the mail. Like the latter places we had visited, things were quiet. The +Junta had been dissolved, and the Queen’s Government become popular. +Here the news of the outbreak at Barcelona had caused disturbances. +A battalion of the National Guard marched from the town of Reuss to +assist those at Tarragona, and was received with acclamations. The +braves of Tarragona sacrificed to their fury the Lieutenant-Governor +and the Town Major, who were thought to be Carlists; General Conti, +Governor of Tarragona, absconded the day before the news of the +Revolution was generally known. + +Brigadier Lescanca, who had been appointed by the people to this chief +command, endeavoured to save the lives of the Lieutenant-Governor +and Town Major. During the night, when the people were exasperated, +it was thought possible to save them by conveying them to one of the +vessels in the harbour. However, before they got to the boat they were +observed, and murdered on the pier. The Governor was stoned to death, +and his fellow-victim shot. A Junta, similar to the others, was formed, +and tranquillity restored. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 16.] + +We sailed. _Clio_, in co., 16, with my old Lieutenant, F. Scott, on +board; we meet her again! Anchored at Gibraltar in time to catch the up +and down mails. The Gibraltar merchants had prosperous times, as, since +this Revolution, the men employed on the coastguard had been sent to +join the army in the north. At the present time their storehouses are +empty. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 17.] + +After supplying the Calpe Hunt with the bread-dust I had collected, we +sailed. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 18.] + +Came to inside the mole at Malaga. The Juntas had been dissolved; the +Queen’s Government apparently popular. An active subscription was going +on to support the Queen’s army employed in the North. I met a man going +about the street with “true and correct lists” for sale, in Spanish, of +those who have not subscribed. + +My _Childers_ touched a shoal off the end of the mole. We were not +inconvenienced more than a few minutes, owing to the prompt assistance +from the American corvette _John Adams_. At 9 A.M. saluted the Spanish +flag with 21 guns, not having done so on my first visit, owing to there +being no Government, except that appointed by the Junta in opposition +to that of the Queen. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 19.] + +Being the birthday of the Queen of Spain, remained just long enough to +fire a royal salute, with yards manned. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 21.] + +Sailed in commencement of a Levanti. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 24.] + +Visited Alicante; everything quiet. Subscriptions were being raised in +support of the Queen’s army. In the North 3,000,000 reals had been +subscribed, about £30,000. + +A great many men were daily arriving from the country, being part of +the 100,000 required. Valencia had to supply 10,000. Any person could +be exempted on paying 200 dollars, or 100 dollars and a horse. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 29.] + +Moored inside the mole at Barcelona. An important person at Barcelona +was Mr. James Annesley, lately attached to the German Embassy, and with +the prospect of a peerage; he married Clementina, the handsome daughter +of Baron von Brockhausen, and had a promising young family. They lived +in a large house on a grand promenade called the Rambla. He was a good +man of business, and entertained liberally. I frequently afterwards met +the boys, grown into men. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 1.] + +_Clio_ arrived. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 20.] + +After partial refit and preparing to paint, the carpenter, much to my +horror, discovered a spring in our foremast. Lost no time stripping +ship, and through our active Consul obtained permission to place the +brig under the dockyard sheers; got mast out preparatory to repairing +damages. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 26.] + +The _Rodney_, 92, arrived, Captain Hyde Parker, one of the smartest and +best officers in the service. + +Although I could not report _Childers_ ready, it was a satisfaction to +feel I was under a good and permanent Chief, however strict. + +Through the Captain of _Tribune_ stating the length of time _Childers_ +had been inside the mole, I had but a cool reception from my Chief, and +was directed to report myself again, when ready for sea. The fact was +that, although the hoops had been driven on hot over the scarfing, the +sharp frosts at night caused them to burst. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI + +THE CARLIST WAR + + +[Sidenote: 1836. Jan. 4.] + +By help of dockyard sheers got our foremast in, and by 4 P.M. reported +ready for sea, but was disappointed in parading before the _Rodney_, +by a despatch from the Consul to Captain Hyde Parker, stating that the +port could not safely be left without the protection of a man-of-war. + +Leaving _Childers_ in charge of the First Lieutenant, went with +Skipwith to the Consulate. The populace were in a state of excitement. +It appears that a fortnight ago, thirty-three Christinas, some of whom +were citizens of Barcelona, were executed by Carlists in a neighbouring +hermitage. + +A few days later, reports reached of two companies of Christina +Chasseurs having been surprised and put to death. In consequence, a +crowd had assembled in the square opposite the palace, and demanded +vengeance. The Government, with 1800 Nacionales outside, deliberated. +The people acted. Dark had set in. + +Taking ladders and torches, the people went to the citadel, and scaled +the walls without opposition from the garrison. + +About eighty Carlist prisoners were put to death, among them Colonel +O’Donnell and a priest, who, after their heads had been cut off, were +dragged by the heels a roundabout way through streets towards the +opposite end of the great public Rambla. The Consul could not leave his +office. Skipwith and I went to meet them. Being in uniform, we were not +likely to be molested. + +We found the headless bodies on an open space, between the cathedral +and the theatre, where a performance took place by torchlight. + +A cloaked Spaniard stepped from the crowd, and demanded: + +“Cuyo cadaver es aguel?” + +The reply came from one of the assassins: + +“Aguel es el cadaver de O’Donnell, el traidor.” + +The first speaker drew a dagger from his cloak, and plunged it into +the body, on drawing it out touched the blade with his lips. The +performance was repeated on the priest. Then followed some of the +softer sex, chiefly well dressed, and men alternately. + +In the Ataxarnes Fort were confined peasants, who had been seized +because some Carlist troops had passed through their village. + +It was now past midnight; the Spanish General still held council at the +palace, which was surrounded by a large body of the National Guard. At +the palace we were allowed to ascend to the council chamber. + +Doubting the power of the General to prevent the mob repeating their +butcheries at the Ataxarnes Fort, I sent Skipwith off to the _Rodney_ +to inform Captain Parker what I proposed doing, which was, to offer the +services of the _Childers_ to protect life, by taking joint possession, +with the Spanish troops, of the Ataxarnes Fort, which could be done +on the sea-front by scaling-ladders from the brig, and so, with the +Spanish garrison and English marines, hold the fort until the force +from the _Rodney_, some 800 men, could join. + +It was evident my proposition caused a division in the court. + +At daybreak, before we had time to act, the Spanish flag and the Union +Jack were flying together on the Ataxarnes Fort. + +The doctor who was in attendance on the prima donna of the opera in her +confinement, considered her life saved when he informed her of the fact. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 14. Mar. 14.] + +After two months’ work on the coast, arrived at Gibraltar. It was now +the middle of the hunting season. The Calpe hounds were as perfect +as pains and money could make them. Fresh blood was imported as +opportunity offered. The prickly-pear nearly the only obstacle that +could check a run. + +On occasions when bull-fights took place at Algeciras, notice was sent +to the regimental messes that _Childers_ would be ready to convey +officers across. There was no steamer, but my little brig never failed +to land friends in time. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 23.] + +Left Gibraltar and rejoined my worthy chief at Port Mahon. The _Rodney_ +refitting in the most commodious of ports, lying alongside the dockyard +without the inconvenience of a rise and fall of tide. + +The town had an English appearance; many of the signs of public-houses +were called after ships that had been at Trafalgar. There was one named +“Anchor, Hardy, Anchor.” + +I had much fun exploring with my Chief many disused places. The +hospital was one, which he carefully inspected, but on returning to the +open air we found ourselves covered with fleas! + +Although suffering, I cried with laughter at the agony of my Chief, the +cleanest of small men. He roared like a young bull. On turning up the +skirts of his frock-coat, at the waist there was a regular girdle of +fleas. + +[Sidenote: April 7.] + +We next visited Palma Bay. It has a fine town, clean and spacious. It +was in want of money. Spaniards had taken refuge in this spot to avoid +the heavy contributions levied by most of the military Governors on all +persons residing in the provinces, over which they ruled with martial +law. + +[Sidenote: April 13.] + +The Marquis de Montenegro is now the Captain-General, a fine specimen +of the real Spanish grandee, a native of the island. He invited +Captain Parker and the officers of the _Rodney_ and _Childers_, and +entertained us hospitably at a charming country-house which contained, +among many old pictures, an original by Raphael. He had also, in his +country-house, statues collected by his brother, who was a Cardinal in +Rome. + +The Marquis de Colonna is also a resident, the war having obliged him +to quit valuable property in Valencia. He, too, was attentive to the +English. + +There are also many Spaniards under surveillance who had been banished +on suspicion of not being faithful supporters of the existing +Government. Among others was Don Calderon, of whom I had heard much. +At the age of ninety he was sent from Barcelona, where he was about +the oldest resident, surrounded by his family. An old sailor, he +had declined his flag rank in order that he might remain quiet and +unnoticed. What a sad thing is civil war! + +In riding excursions we sometimes pulled up at roadside _posadas_. Eggs +short, I have frequently seen the women in charge of the poultry pick +up a hen, and by a gentle squeeze cause it to drop an egg. + +[Sidenote: April 18.] + +Accompanied _Rodney_ to Barcelona. + +[Sidenote: June 2.] + +I was awakened in the middle of the night by Lord Ranelagh, who had +been fighting with the Carlists. He made his escape when our marines +captured the Carlist lines at Uremea. + +We had been friends for years, and I had now to congratulate him on +being my prisoner. I last left him in the 7th Fusiliers, at Malta. + +After breakfast I went to Mina, whom I found confined to his room; but +Doña Mina, a charming English lady, said he would see _me_. He was in +bed. + +“I know what you are come about,” was his greeting. “You have Lord +Ranelagh on board; take care of him. If he lands in Spain, I will have +him shot.” + +[Sidenote: June 3.] + +At 4 A.M. weighed and made sail, calling at Tarragona. + +In addition to Ranelagh, I had young O’Shee, son of a Madrid banker, +of whom, probably, the Carlists had borrowed money. I landed them at +Gibraltar, out of range of Mina’s shot, on 10th instant, and was sorry +to part with two such cheery companions. + +[Sidenote: July 5.] + +Came to off Tarragona. + +[Sidenote: July 12.] + +Embarked 200 Christina soldiers. They lay sleeping about the decks, +embracing their muskets. Landed them the following day off the mouth of +the Ebro. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 27.] + +Arrived at Barcelona from Malaga; heard that General Mina, who had been +ill for some months, died on Christmas Day. + +The funeral, with full military honours, took place two days later, +attended by all naval officers present in Barcelona, _Childers_ firing +minute-guns during the ceremony. + +_Rodney_ lying in the roadstead; _Orestes_ and _Harlequin_ arrived in +time to join in the ceremony, and were secured inside the mole; while +_Childers_ took up her berth inside inner mole. + +[Sidenote: Dec.] + +We could only use one side, but the saluting, although we fired each +once in nine minutes, made the guns so hot that care was necessary. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII + +THE _CHILDERS_ BRIG + + +[Sidenote: 1837. Jan. 2.] + +It was with great pleasure I learned from Captain Parker that he had +appointed my young friend, George H. Seymour, midshipman, son of +the much-respected Admiral Sir George Seymour, K.C.B., as “lent” to +_Childers_, but unfortunately, as it proved, for a very short time. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 4.] + +Sailed. Arrived at Carthagena, 16th--a huge basin which might have held +a dozen ships of the line, surrounded by storehouses. Heavy brass rings +were secured deep in the masonry, and great guns made posts to secure +to. This was a grand old naval arsenal, which had probably not been +used since Trafalgar. + +The pilot who brought us in, recommended our not using any anchor +heavier than our own kedge, on account of the depth of mud which had +accumulated for many years. The dock-gates had long since decayed, and +were replaced by the mast of some line-of-battle ship, one end hauled +aside to admit us. + +We prepared for a thorough outfit, took possession of two large +storehouses, and made ourselves comfortable. Wild-fowl and snipe were +to be found in remote parts of this unfrequented arsenal. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 16.] + +One of my gig’s crew, by name Lathom, was a born artist; by assistance +of chalk and burnt stick drew some interesting and spirited sea-pieces: +always entertaining likenesses of the _Childers_. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 27.] + +The _Wolverine_ was reported as anchored in the harbour, out of sight +of the entrance to the basin, her Commander the Hon. Edward Howard. +What a chance for me! The first time since my commissioning _Childers_ +I had fallen in with a junior. + +The channel to the dockyard was formed by high land on larboard side, +and the shoaler water of the harbour on the other. A projecting angle +of the land prevented your seeing the entrance to the basin until round +it; then a straight run in. + +I sent my coxswain to have the bar removed, and then pulled out to the +_Wolverine_. I found my young friend full of zeal. He had stores for +our Spanish Squadron off Tarragona; but as H.M.S. _Childers_ required +bread, and it might come on to blow and get wet, I gave _Wolverine_ an +order to supply, and bring his ship into the basin. And as the wind was +fair, to weigh, make sail, and I would pilot him in. + +We were in the forecastle together, and had rounded the angle, having +got into the straight, but narrow channel, when I heard Howard call, +“Hands shorten sail!” In a moment I saw the mast had not been removed, +but I called out, “Keep all fast!” and told Howard if _Wolverine_ +could not jump, she must go through it. As luck would have it, the +mast had begun to move, and a kedge anchor was dropped in the mud of +the basin. Where _I_ was to blame, was in not allowing for the natural +dilatoriness of our friends and allies, the Spaniards. + +Of course, so large a vessel as _Childers_ could not be victualled in a +day, and the Alhambra _had_ to be seen. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 9.] + +Weighed, ran out of basin and harbour. Joined _Tyne_ and _Orestes_. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 15.] + +Came to off Barcelona. Found _Rodney_. Inside mole, _Harlequin_, +_Nautilis_, and _Wolverine_. To my regret, Seymour was ordered to +rejoin _Rodney_. + +Worked into Malta Harbour, secured to buoy, dockyard creek. Found +_Caledonia_, 120, _Asia_, 84, _Vanguard_, 80, _Bellerophon_, 80, +_Revenge_, 78, _Barham_, 50, _Tyne_, 28, _Orestes_, and “Behind” +cutter. Refitted; got in a new foremast. + +[Sidenote: March.] + +On board _Barham_ was my old friend, Fred Hutton, as First Lieutenant. +He was early on board _Childers_ to greet me, bringing with him a +fully-signed document to prove that he had not sung “John’s ale was +new” from the time I left the _Magicienne_, until paid off; by which +I lost my fiver. He entertained a party at dinner on shore, myself +included, that must have cost him four times the amount. + +Remained in Malta till March 8, enjoying the opera, races, dancing, and +all the amusements of the winter season. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 8 to June 26.] + +During this period we were continually on the move, having made fifteen +anchorings. It would be weary to recall them individually. + +[Sidenote: July 8.] + +Secured inside the Mole, Gibraltar. Lowered colours half-mast, news +having arrived of the death of our Sailor King, William IV. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 1.] + +Arrived at Barcelona. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 3.] + +Spanish authorities having received information of the arrival of a +Carlist force at Villa Nueva, they requested me, through our Consul, to +proceed there. On arrival in the morning the enemy had disappeared. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 5.] + +At daylight observed two line-of-battle ships to leeward. Bore up; +saluted flag of Admiral Sir Robert Stopford, in _Princess Royal_, +_Vanguard_ in company. Received orders to proceed to the West Coast of +Africa as soon as _Childers_ could be spared from present duties. The +same order was posted to me from Malta by Sir Josias Rowley, homeward +bound, which reached me afterwards. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 9.] + +At the request of Commander Baldwin Walker, took _Vanguard’s_ boats in +tow and ran into Port Faugal. Enemy had disappeared. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 17.] + +Secured to Gibraltar Mole. Found a French Squadron; Prince de Joinville +on board _Hercules_. Busy taking in stores and provisions. + +I was sorry at being obliged to leave the Mediterranean without seeing +more of my friend, George Grey, who commanded the _Scylla_, and ordered +home on promotion. He was one of the smartest and most promising +young officers in the service. He married a charming lady who was not +a sailor. George was appointed in 1846 Superintendent of Gibraltar +Dockyard, where he remained for many years. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII + +_CHILDERS_: WEST COAST OF AFRICA + + +[Sidenote: 1837. Aug. 24.] + +Adieu to Mediterranean and civilisation! We were ordered to Portendick, +the northern limit of the West African and Cape of Good Hope station. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 5.] + +Called at Portendick. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 24.] + +Arrived at Sierra Leone. Here we received our proportion of Kroomen, +the most useful and intelligent of natives, who relieved our men of +much sun work. As they were discharged, on their ships leaving the +station, they were at liberty to volunteer for any ships they fancied. +We were not long in completing our complement of twenty-four. The +native names of these Kroomen were so incomprehensible that on their +first joining a man-of-war the Captain had to find names for the +ship’s books. Thus, among those left with me were “Doctor Inman,” +“Sea-breeze,” “No Grog,” “Prince of Wales,” “Bishop of London.” It +would be tedious to name them all. They were good-tempered and willing +fellows; thoroughly acquainted with the coast. + +During the few days that it was necessary for me to remain in this +picturesque, but sickly harbour, the _Harpy_, 10, Hon. George Clements, +arrived with a returned prize crew from the West Indies. (His sister +had married my clergyman brother.) He had fever on board, and had lost +many men. The day before sailing the poor fellow dined with me. He told +me the night previous he had heard bodies dropped into the river from +merchant ships near. + +The wind blows chiefly off the coast, and when the _Harpy_ sailed with +her sickly crew, the officers went aloft to assist in loosing sails. + +Poor George Clements! From the kind way in which he pressed on me a +gold chain he had worn, I do not think he expected to live long. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 1.] + +Left Sierra Leone October 1, _Saracen_ in company. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 3.] + +Parted company with the _Saracen_, who went to look into the Gallinas +for slavers. We continued about fifty miles off shore. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 7.] + +At 2 P.M. being abreast of the Penguin, frequented by slavers, who +take in rice prior to embarking a cargo. Bore up and furled upper +sails. After dark came to off the mouth of the river; sent pinnace, +with Lieutenant Goldsmith, and cutter, with Acting Lieutenant Noad, to +reconnoitre. + +I heard the following morning from an unemployed Krooman, “Prince +William,” who came off with others to barter for tobacco or anything +else they could get, that a slaver, having completed her water and +rice, supposed to be Spanish, had sailed the previous evening for New +Cess, a place about the spot where Trade Town is marked on the chart. + +“Prince William” was an intelligent fellow; he had served on board the +_Primrose_, who had thus christened him. He had ECNIRP tattooed on his +chest. One of the _Primrose_ seamen had chalked his name on a piece +of wood, which he took home, and, making the impression, had his name +engraved backwards. He offered to pilot us in. + +The pinnace and cutter returned about ten o’clock, having pulled up +the river against a very strong current. Several monkeys and curious +birds were seen, but, owing to the thickness of the mangrove bushes, +could not have been got at had they been killed. + +This is a good place for canoes; the natives make them to any +dimensions in a short time. I paid five dollars for one about 30 feet +long and quite new. + +Kroomen speaking English are always to be found along the coast, and +make good interpreters. + +Got under way at eleven, and at noon fell in with a rakish-looking +schooner, who showed American colours and papers named “The _Peri_, of +Baltimore.” Her skipper was, I think, a Dutchman, but the remainder +of the crew were Spaniards. The log was kept in Spanish, and she was +evidently a Spanish vessel, having her water-casks in, and, with the +exception of rice, everything ready for a cargo of slaves. But no +Spanish papers could be found, and she got off under United States +colours. + +We soon overhauled another Spanish slaver, who could not long, judging +from the smell, have landed her cargo. She had a Spanish captain and +crew, but sheltered herself under the Portuguese flag; she was a sort +of jackal, picking up cargoes for the larger vessels. + +Until the last treaty with Spain, which entitles us to capture Spanish +vessels fitted for slaves, with or without slaves on board, the +Portuguese flag had scarcely been seen on this part of the coast. The +Portuguese papers are chiefly obtained at Porto Praya, St. Jago. + +At 9 P.M., when off the Grand Canon Point, ten miles to the south-east +of New Cess, we furled square sails, hoisted boats out, and sent +away pinnace, cutter, and jolly-boat, under the pilotage of “Prince +William,” manned and armed. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 9.] + +At daybreak sent the gig to board a brigantine observed to be at anchor +about seven miles to the south-east. She proved to be the _Sarah Ann_, +an English vessel, belonging to a company of merchants, who have +purchased from the native chiefs several small spots of land along +the coast, on which they have built some wigwam-looking huts, where +they deposit a portion of English goods, such as broadcloth, muskets, +knives, beads, etc. These huts are styled British factories, through +which means a traffic is carried on with the natives, bartering their +goods for palm-oil or ivory. The Company send a vessel out every two or +three months, which vessel remains on the coast, going from one factory +to another, until their cargoes are completed, leaving one or two of +their crew and a few Kroomen at each place to carry on the trade. + +The _Sarah Ann_ had been five months out, and had on board about seven +tons of oil. The captain and five of her crew had died; the remainder +were in a sickly state. + +Although inexperienced and scarcely a month out, I could neither think +nor dream of anything but slavers. On visiting the British factory at +Piccaninny Cestos, a small thatched hut, nearly hidden in Jungle, I +found a sickly-looking lad surrounded by a number of natives, each of +whom brought a small portion of oil--about a gallon--in calabashes, +in exchange for a small measure of cloth. By way of protection, the +hut was surrounded by a high sort of railing formed of stakes, just +wide enough apart to admit the muzzle of a musket, by which means +the companion of the sick lad was shot through the head a few days +previously. This brutal act was supposed to have been committed by the +King’s son. I offered to set fire to all his black Majesty’s huts along +the coast, but was informed that by so doing I should put a stop to +the trade, which appeared to be of much more consequence than the poor +lad’s life. + +[Illustration: _West African Natives._] + +The natives are odd-looking animals. They are not troubled with too +much clothing, but besmear their face and bodies with mud by way of +ornament, and wear a necklace of pigs’ teeth by way of a charm, to keep +the devil at a distance. + +I reached the ship at the same time as the other boats from this +expedition. They had pulled up in the dark towards the anchorage of +Trade Town, and at midnight were just able to discern their vessels +lying in the anchorage. Goldsmith directed that each boat should take +one, which they did by pulling alongside their respective vessels as +nearly as possible at the same time. + +The pinnace boarded a fine schooner called the _Vigilante_, with +everything ready for a start. Her fore topsail yard was hoisted to the +masthead, her cat-fall was overhauled, and a luff tackle for weighing +the anchor stretched along her deck. The planks were arranged over the +water casks, ready for the reception of her slaves, who were always +brought on board heavily ironed. And even the articles, delicately +termed “poo-poo pots” by the boatswain, were placed on either side. The +crew were pretty well on the alert, considering the darkness of the +night. They hailed the boat before she got alongside, and her crew, +forty-five in number, rushing up from below as one man, each having +his particular station assigned him, took possession of the deck. Had +our boats waited two or three hours, she would in all probability have +been captured with 400 or 500 slaves on board. She, however, produced +Portuguese papers. + +The cutter boarded a pretty, rakish-looking brig, which was immediately +recognised as the _Golenthokika_, a vessel which had been lying for +some weeks close to us at Barcelona. Her people were not quite so much +on the alert as those on board the brigantine. On coming on deck they +made a rush for the arms kept under the poop, but they found everything +already in the possession of our men. The skipper produced Russian and +Greek papers, under which countries’ flags he fitted out. + +The jolly-boat also boarded a slave schooner under Portuguese colours. +As most of these vessels have a double set of papers, the Spanish ones +were in all probability on shore with the captain, none of whom were +found on board. + +The men being tired, and the weather, as usual, rainy and dirty, we +remained that night at anchor, sending the gig to reconnoitre. The +following morning we got under way about an hour before daylight, and +stood towards the slave vessels. The ground between the anchorage we +were in and the vessels was rocky and uneven. We lost two hand-leads, +although we had nothing less than ten fathoms. The gig returned on +board when we got off Trade Town. + +Goldsmith, who had boarded the brigantine again at daylight, found so +much prevarication in the captain’s statement that he brought him and +the papers on board for my inspection. + +The man who came as captain was a Portuguese lad, but with an old head +on young shoulders. He stated the night he was boarded that the Captain +was on shore, which fact he flatly denied to me, and said the officer +must have been mistaken, although I had three men ready to make oath +that such was the case. + +He seemed to know very well what he was about, and produced regular +Portuguese papers, signed by the proper authorities at Porto Praya. +He breakfasted with me, spoke very good Spanish and a little English, +and, appearing satisfied that all was right, smoked his cigar with true +Spanish indifference. + +This rascal assured me that, having been captured only a few months +before by the _Bonetta_, when he was supercargo of a vessel with +upwards of 300 slaves on board, he was not fool enough to try his hand +at it again. + +He stated that the vessel he was now in was his own property. Not being +able to prove his vessel Spanish, we let him go, wished him good-bye, +and hoped we might meet again. I then proceeded to land “Prince +William” at the Penguin. + +Nearly the whole time we were on this coast we had hard and continued +rain--a great damper to zeal and slave-hunting. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 11.] + +Weighed in the afternoon and anchored at sunset in Buffon Bay. In +getting under way from Rock Cestos, a Kroo canoe got capsized by the +tow-rope getting under the bottom, turning three of the natives, with +their fruit, paddles, etc., into the water. It was curious to observe +the dexterous and expeditious way with which they emptied, and then +replaced themselves in the canoe. + +Two of the men easily righted it, and commenced getting the water +out by pushing it suddenly backwards and forwards in a fore and aft +direction, afterwards by rolling it broadside, first one way, and then +on the other, by which means the greater part of the water tumbled out. + +The third man swam away to pick up the bales and a paddle, returning +with one in each hand; while two of the men held on the opposite +gunwale, he very cleverly threw himself in, and baled her out in no +time. + +The other two got in on either side; everything was picked up, and the +canoe again alongside in a very short space of time. As the water did +not hang long on their black, greasy skins, they, as well as their +canoe, looked as if nothing had happened. + +I visited the British factory at Buffon Bay, which was an improvement +on the one at Piccaninny Cestos, really being a very comfortable +two-storey bamboo cottage built on a narrow strip of land about half a +mile in length, with the sea in front, the river Buffon bounding the +north-west. On the south-east is an impenetrable jungle. + +A black gentleman of Sierra Leone, by the name of Harleston, with a +few Kroomen and two or three natives, formed a little colony. Ivory +appeared to be the only article received in exchange for British goods. + +The Resident informed me that good shooting might be had twelve miles +up the river, and those fond of the sport should go in a light canoe. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 12] + +From Buffon Bay stood well off-shore, and the next land was that part +of the coast between St. Andrews and Cape Lahon. When close in-shore +we shortened sail to topsails, and ran along the coast, keeping in 15 +fathoms water, hoping to find myself at daylight about twelve miles to +windward of Cape Lahon Town, the principal place for traffic in ivory +and gold-dust. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 15.] + +Cape Lahon was wrongly placed on the chart, and a strong current set us +ten miles to leeward. We anchored for a few hours. A canoe, from which +I obtained information, pulled very cautiously three times round the +brig before its owner would venture alongside, and when he did so it +happened to be at the time our men were cleaning arms. Seeing several +with cutlasses in their hands, he gave the alarm, tumbled into his +canoe, and paddled away as if he had seen the devil. + +They returned after some persuasion and friendly signs and signals +had been made to them, but nothing would induce any of the twelve +to venture inside or beyond the hammock-netting, where they perched +themselves ready for a bolt overboard on the first symptoms of anything +like treachery on our part. Even these savages had a smattering of the +English tongue, and could ask very distinctly for rum and tobacco. + +[Sidenote: Cape Lahon, Oct. 16.] + +I found out afterwards that their fears were not altogether without +cause, as Spanish vessels had been in the habit, when their cargoes +were not quite complete, of enticing these unfortunate negroes on board +under the pretence of trading, and then kidnapping them; not many +months previously their King, with twenty-four men, had been carried +off, canoe and all, and sold at the Havana. His Majesty was afterwards +restored to his country, but so broken-hearted and dispirited as to be +unable to assume the government. His son Antonio now reigns at Lahon. +They are a harmless and inoffensive people. + +In running along-shore, which you may do about half a mile from the +beach in 9 or 10 fathoms, the coast has a beautiful appearance. The +country is thickly wooded, with trees of every size, colour, and +description, and the villages, which are always to be seen where there +are a few cocoanuts growing together, give it a lively and picturesque +appearance--a great contrast with that of Portendick. + +A tremendous surf was breaking on the beach, and we did not see a +single spot for several hundred miles where any of our boats could have +landed. + +After rounding Cape Palmas, the surf was considerably higher. The +canoes were formed much stouter and stronger, and appeared very clumsy +after the beautiful light skiffs of Sierra Leone, and what is termed +the Windward Coast. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 17.] + +Anchored off Grande Jack. The natives came off in swarms, taking us +for a first-rate trader. At this place we found that they spoke more +English, and consequently were more impudent, fonder of grog, and more +avaricious than any of the natives we had yet seen. + +They brought off cocoanuts, cats, yams, monkeys, and gold-dust (the +value of which they understand perfectly well), as well as poultry, +limes, goats, and ivory, in exchange for which they took any old +clothes, seamen’s hats, marines’ caps, and stole the hand-lead out of +the chains. The whole scene of exchange, which took place on deck, +being new to us, was most amusing. + +Every negro proceeded to dress himself in each article of clothing as +he received it in exchange. One was seen walking about the decks as +proud as Lucifer, in a perfect state of nudity with the exception of a +marine’s cap. Another put the trousers over his shoulders like a lady’s +shawl, and several had jackets on hind part before. + +From Grande Jack we went to Grand Bassani, but the surf ran too high to +allow our boats to proceed over the bar up the river. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 18.] + +Bassani is a large and populous town, situated about ten miles up the +river, its trade principally gold-dust and ivory. + +On the arrival of any vessel to open a trade with the natives, it is +customary to give the Chief what they call a _dash_, which is a present +of part of everything you have on board. No Chief ever neglects coming +on board for his _dash_, and without which little or no trade is +carried on. + +Grand Bassani was the first place from Cape Palmas where a landing is +effected by Europeans, and then it can only be accomplished in the +canoes of the natives, about once in eight or nine days. + +From Grand Bassani we proceeded along-shore, passing the mouth of +the Assine River, out of which the fresh water was rushing with +considerable violence. This river separates what is called the ivory +from the gold country, although both these articles are to be obtained +on either coast, to the eastward of Cape Appollonia. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 19.] + +We passed the town of that name, and in which stands an old British +fort, now abandoned, the first stone-and-mortar building we had seen +since leaving Sierra Leone. + +[Illustration: _A Factory._] + +In the afternoon passed Axine, where there is a pretty-looking fort, +on which the Dutch flag was flying. In the evening we anchored off +Dixcove, where by a ledge of rocks is formed a snug little harbour. + +The rollers occasionally run in, but the surf seldom breaks across +the entrance, about ten yards wide, and close under the fort, on your +right going in. The boatswain, however, managed to get himself and two +Kroomen capsized in my canoe. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 20.] + +The fort, mounting 16 guns, stands on a rocky point, commands the +town, which, although it owns a King as well as a village a few miles +distant, the people call themselves British subjects, and are ready, +but not anxious, to fight for their governors. + +We can scarcely interfere with their laws, except to put a stop to the +barbarous practice of sacrificing human beings. + +The natives, who belong to a race called Ashanti, are inoffensive, +superstitious, and idle. I noticed a very decent-looking native--one of +the _cabocees_ or elders of the town--who had come to the fort to ask +permission to bury a woman alive, for being, as he alleged, a witch. + +On inquiry, the Governor discovered the man had already done so the +previous day. He was in durance vile, awaiting the decision of the +Resident at Cape Coast, under whose authority are all the British forts +along the coast. + +At almost every forty or fifty miles there is a distinct race, whose +names and customs are different, and who can scarcely understand each +other’s language. + +At Dixcove the natives regard alligators as fetish or sacred. At Cape +Coast, a few miles from this, they destroy them. At Accra, I believe, +the hyæna is fetish. + +On the western side of the town of Dixcove is a small river, and the +mouth being choked up with sand, it had spread itself into a swamp, +covering about half an acre of ground. + +In this are many crocodiles, frequently known to devour goats, fowls, +etc., when near the banks. These reptiles, as well as snakes, are +considered fetish, and are worshipped by the natives. + +Near the river lives an old fetish woman, who is held in awe and +treated with great respect by the natives. She is supposed to have +great power over crocodiles. I went with the Resident to see this +extraordinary fact. On being applied to, the old hag issued from her +hut. + +She was covered with a sort of white mud-wash, and wore about her +person several absurd superstitious ornaments, such as a pair of goat’s +horns, some tiger’s teeth, and several pieces of gold. Her body was +uncovered down to the waist; her breasts hung down like the flaps of +an old saddle. She was nearly blind from age, and supported herself by +a long, mysterious-looking stick. The witch took her position under +a tree, and to my astonishment I saw one of these horrid-looking +crocodiles, after having been invoked and charmed for some minutes by +her (she held a doomed chicken in her hand, and while going through +many extraordinary gestures and motions, repeated some unintelligible +jargon), gradually emerge from the rushes on the opposite side, where +he had been entirely hid from view, swim across, and creep up the bank +towards where we stood. My first impulse was to bolt, but on turning +round I felt ashamed. A number of native women, with their children, +stood by, apparently without the slightest fear, so much confidence had +they in the power of the old woman over the reptile. I therefore stood +my ground manfully, and allowed the crocodile to approach within a yard +of me, and receive the chicken from the old hag at the end of a reed. +I certainly felt a great relief when the brute crushed the unfortunate +bird, feathers and all, which he seized in the most ungracious and +savage manner, and turned again into the river. I had seen crocodiles +before, both in the East and West Indies, but never heard of their +facing a concourse of people. + +The people trade in palm-oil and gold-dust. + +Mr. Swansen, the Resident of Dixcove, is a young man of about +two-and-twenty. He had very comfortable, roomy quarters in the fort, +and was the only white man in the settlement. Nothing could surpass his +kindness and attention. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 22.] + +Anchored off Elmina. Fort St. George, the chief settlement of the +Dutch, is the largest and handsomest place on the coast. + +I saluted on anchoring, and the Governor immediately sent off a large +canoe to convey me on shore. I was shown all over the fort; which +mounts 62 guns, is of great extent, and kept in beautiful order. + +The Dutch are very proud of this place, having taken it from the +Portuguese more than two centuries ago, retaining it ever since. + +Fort St. Jago I was not allowed to see; it was his weakest point, and +the Governor wasn’t anxious to show it. + +The Dutch Government carry on a traffic in slaves, under the plea of +raising recruits for their East India possessions. The negroes are +bought from the Ashanti chiefs, embarked for Batavia, and told they are +free men. + +I observed several neat and comfortable-looking houses, with gardens +attached, belonging to the merchants, most of whom I met at the +Governor’s table, where I was hospitably entertained. Almost every one +spoke English. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 23.] + +Cape Coast is only nine miles to the eastward of Elmina, where we +anchored following morning. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX + +CAPE COAST CASTLE + + +[Sidenote: 1837.] + +The anchor was no sooner down than a large canoe with four-and-twenty +paddles was alongside, waiting orders. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 23.] + +I went on shore with several of the officers, in straw hats and round +jackets, expecting a wetting; the surf ran high. We, however, landed +perfectly dry, but had no sooner touched the shore than a salute was +fired, and, on entering the square of the fort, I found the garrison +turned out. The band struck up “God save the Queen,” which I now heard +for the first time, and the guard presented arms. I took off my hat, +which I tried to hide, and bowed to everybody. On a promise from the +Resident that I should be treated with no further ceremony, I composed +myself with an excellent glass of “Madeira.” + +Cape Coast Castle, as well as the other English settlements along +the coast, was given up by Government about ten years previously to +a company, with the allowance of £3500 a year, with which they pay a +garrison and keep the forts in repair. They manage, I suppose, by a +liberal supply from their own coffers, to do everything in excellent +style, and I believe no garrisons under Government can be conducted +with greater regularity or kept in better order than these on the +western coast of Africa. + +Since then trade has increased. The Ashantis, with whom we were +constantly at war, became good allies, and confidence re-established. +As a proof of this, his Ashanti Majesty has sent two of his sons to +England to be educated, and a regular and constant communication is +kept with Coomassie, the capital. + +We no longer pay tribute for the ground on which Cape Coast Castle +is built. There is a well-conducted school established in the fort, +where I saw upwards of a hundred native boys. I was struck with the +appearance of a smart-looking half-caste boy, about eight years old, +who, on my asking his name, said: “Ma name, George, sar: son of Captain +George C----, Royal Navy, sar.” This is the first attempt of education, +and when knowledge becomes diffused, the natives (Fantees), who are +at present idle and superstitious, may soon see the advantages of +commerce and industry. They are daily leaving off many of their fetish +practices. Their religion appears to consist chiefly in doing homage +or making presents to anything their priests choose to call or make +fetish--a stone, a tree, a wild beast--in short, anything. + +In passing by the edge of a jungle, I observed a path neatly cut +through the thickest part of it, and was told that in all probability +I should see something “fetish.” I went in. The path terminated at a +large stone, round which were some old shells and two or three bottles +containing rum. These were offerings to induce this stone to keep +harm away from the donors. They consider white men as superior in +power to their fetish, and any of them would have removed a bottle of +rum from the stone had he been told to do so by the Resident or any +white man whom they had been in the habit of looking up to, although +they dared not have touched it of their own accord. They follow their +own religion, for want of a better. The soil is capable of producing +anything, and a second India, on a small scale, may one day rise out +of these settlements--that is, if they continue in the hands of such +an enterprising, liberal little company of merchants as now have the +management. The merchants appeared to vie with one another in doing +everything to make our stay at Cape Coast agreeable, in which they +fully succeeded. + +Mr. Swansen, brother of my old friend, the Governor at Dixcove, +prepared a visit to a plantation he was making a few miles in the +country. + +It is a remarkable fact that the cattle, which formerly used to sleep +in the woods outside the town, have, ever since the Ashantis attacked +Cape Coast, come in, and sleep under the protection of the guns. + +The dispensary is well arranged in the fort, near which I saw what is +only seen in tropical climates--a man whose leg had just been amputated +by a shark. + +I visited Mr. Swansen’s enterprising undertaking, the first attempt at +anything like a plantation that had been made. He had been here for +two years, and was expending a considerable sum in clearing away the +jungle, so that it must be some time before he can get income from it. +Napoleon Plantation is about six miles from Cape Coast. + +We started, a large party. From the novelty of the scene, the various +and curious modes of conveyance, etc., made it to us a most agreeable +and amusing excursion. The usual conveyance is in a long narrow basket, +carried on the heads of a couple of natives, in which you can lie +your length; nothing being visible from the outside but your toes and +nose, which gives you the appearance of a corpse. A few were conveyed +in a sort of Sedan chair, and several in little light four-wheeled +carriages, which are drawn by four men, with two more behind to push +uphill. Being drawn in a carriage by human beings sounds contrary to +our English ideas, but it is only in the name. They are well paid and +worked easily; choosing always their own pace; and I never saw children +enjoy the fun of drawing along a little cart more than these blacks did +that of drawing the Resident and myself along six miles of bad road. + +Mr. Swansen’s comfortable cottage we found prettily situated on the +summit of a hill, at the foot of which ran a small river. At the back +and sides were mountains covered with impenetrable jungle, which the +natives were endeavouring to clear. But the fore-part of the hill on +which the house stood was already covered with cotton, coffee, tobacco, +and other plants, springing up most luxuriously. A vast number of +natives had collected to greet our arrival, and were performing one +of the wildest and most picturesque dances. A more agreeable sight, +however, and which, I believe, was the chief object of our journey, was +an excellent dinner, to which we did ample justice. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 24.] + +We visited an adjoining village, luckily on some fête day, as all +the people were dressed in their best. The chiefs of the village, +with their attendants, came down to welcome us with trumpets, and +a great noise was made with various nondescript instruments. Many +curiously-rigged personages, whose offices I could not exactly make +out, were in attendance. They danced round us, gave us palm-wine to +drink, and fired off muskets close to us--in short, the nearer the +muzzle is to your ear without blowing your head off the greater the +compliment. It was dark before we got back to the town, when we +finished with another dinner at Mr. Swansen’s. + +We took leave of our friends at Cape Coast, having passed two agreeable +days, the large canoe being in attendance. + +Cape Coast is certainly not more unhealthy than most tropical climates, +and some weeks might be passed very pleasantly; but there are two +serious objections--neither horses nor white women ever live there. The +famous authoress, “L. E. L.,” was the last victim. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 26.] + +Anchored off British Accra. The fort is neat, and in first-rate order, +but not so large as Cape Coast. This is another settlement. The country +is open, and roads are good to the extent of thirty miles. What +rendered it so agreeable was the kindness and attention shown by Mr. +Bannerman, well known to the Navy employed on this coast. + +Accra is famous for the quantity and fineness of its gold-dust. Many +pretty rings are made here of the purest gold. Ivory is also to be +obtained. + +Adjoining, and to the eastward is Dutch Accra, with the remains of a +fort, destroyed in 1821 by the English, which the Dutch Governor told +me had been washed down by the sea. + +Two miles further is a Danish fort and town, all three flags flying +within range of each other’s guns. + +Accra has an odd appearance from the sea. I rode over to Danish Accra +to call on the Governor, and was received with a guard and salute. The +natives are much the same in appearance as at Cape Coast, and equally +superstitious; among many other absurdities, the untamable hyena is +here fetish. These animals come into the town at night and commit +depredations with impunity. They imitate the noises of the different +animals, and particularly the crying of a child. + +A hyena a few nights back dropped two cubs in the street; the following +night she returned and took them away. + +One of the merchants having shot a hyena while he was employed at night +in digging up the remains of a favourite horse, was obliged to make a +large _dash_ of rum and tobacco to appease the natives, who fancied +that all sorts of calamities would occur in consequence. No work is +done until a _dash_ is given. + +When the Ashantis bring in gold they stop within a mile of the town and +send a messenger, waiting his return with a _dash_. Both men and women +drink the rum neat. + +The cowry shell is used as money, twenty to a penny. + +Good shooting may be had: partridges, hares, and snipe close to the +town, and at a short distance deer. + +Stock of all sorts to be obtained at moderate prices, as well as beef +and mutton. Turtle may be picked up on a sandy beach. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 30.] + +Gray parrots might be bought alongside, four for a dollar, bamboo cage +and all. + +The last day at Accra we were most sumptuously entertained by the +Danish Governor. He had served as a Lieutenant in the French Navy, and +had met Goldsmith at Marseilles, who, being very anxious to sketch one +of the native women in full costume, the Governor good-naturedly got +one of the wives of the chiefs of the town. She made her appearance +after dinner, almost covered with finery, which she liked being +sketched. Her thighs and hips were covered with silver beads, which, +again, were covered by a red cotton dress--a sort of covering wound +round her body, all above her hips being left bare, as well as below +her knees. She had upwards of a thousand dollars’ worth of gold +ornaments on her. After this took our departure. + +Under way just before sunset, and saluted the Danish flag in passing. +During a fortnight’s cruise in search of the senior officer we fell +in with _Saracen_, _Viper_, and _Waterwitch_. The latter is one of +Symonds’ beautiful brigs; she beat us to windward during half an hour’s +trial. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 15.] + +Anchored in Clarence Cove, Fernando Po. This place was once in +possession of our Government, but now belongs to a small company of +merchants. The first question asked by every passer-by is: “What in the +world could induce the Government to give up such a place with so many +advantages?” + +As a rendezvous for ships of war it is perfect. The anchorage is +capacious and safe, the fresh water excellent and plentiful, and no end +of firewood. There is also a good place for hauling the seine, with +lots of fine fish. An excellent beach for hauling boats up for repair. + +Clarence Cove is a key to some of the largest rivers in Africa, and its +being situated in the centre almost of the country from which most of +the slaves are exported renders this the most fit place for the slave +court to be held. + +Although at present the island is not overstocked with bullocks, still +animals of all sorts thrive here, and by a little pains it might +become one of the most commodious and useful spots on the globe as a +naval establishment. The timber also, of which there is an enormous +quantity, and of great variety, is allowed to be the best exported from +any part of Africa. The soil is rich, and capable of producing anything. + +The company had appointed two zealous and active agents in Messrs. +Beecroft and Oldfield, who act as Governors, and fill all other +appointments besides. The population consists of 800 persons, chiefly +liberated negroes from Sierra Leone. + +There is a small militia garrison of about sixty persons, and several +stores containing a little of everything, which articles they ship off +in smaller vessels who barter up the adjoining rivers with the natives +for palm-oil and ivory. + +Although there are a vast number of palms on the island, the natives +have not been taught the advantage of collecting the oil, and bringing +it down to barter for British goods. They are as yet an idle and +indolent race, but I should think most useful and willing when once +they can be convinced of the advantages of industry. The trees are +felled by Kroomen. I saw one piece of timber measuring 5 feet square at +the smallest, and 60 feet long. + +Mr. Beecroft was kind enough to have a couple of the largest trees +felled for us to see, and I think, next to the launching of a large +ship, it was the most magnificent sight I ever beheld. + +We remained at Fernando Po for a week, sailing on 21st. On 23rd we were +overtaken by a moderate tornado, which lasted three hours, and ended in +a north-east breeze. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 25.] + +Came to in West Bay, Prince’s Island, to gain intelligence of the +senior Commander, under whose orders I was about to place myself. + +This is an exceedingly pretty and secure little bay, well adapted for +cruisers to complete wood and water. There are sugar-loaf mountains +and other shaped hills which give the island a picturesque appearance. +It belongs to the Portuguese. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 27.] + +Anchored in Church Bay, at which place Doña Ferraz, widow of the +Portuguese Governor of Prince’s Island, holds her court. She is a very +kind and hospitable lady of rather dark complexion, and fond of the +English. + +Doña Ferraz has five of these large houses, around which the negro huts +are prettily arranged, each having its garden in front. + +The _slavery_ was only in the name; I never saw a set of people more +happy and contented, or more devoted than they are to their mistress. + +We remained a couple of days, during which time I was “Madame’s” (the +name she always goes by) guest. + +I noticed, tending the table, some smart-looking boys, of a much +lighter complexion than the generality of the slave children. I found +on inquiry that they were all born at West Bay, where British cruisers +go for wood and water. + +However, after a certain age, “Madame” gives them their freedom, a +piece of ground, and a small sum of money. + +About four o’clock in the afternoon a rakish schooner hove in sight, +coming round the northernmost point of the bay, but on seeing us, she +bore up. + +We immediately weighed and made all sail in chase, but directly after +sunset in the tropics, when there is no moon, it becomes exceedingly +dark. At daylight nothing of our chase was to be seen. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 29.] + +Fell in with a brig, 450 slaves on board. Prize to _Scout_, 18, +Commander R. Craigie. + + + + +CHAPTER XX + +THE _CHILDERS_ BRIG + + +[Sidenote: 1837. Dec. 2.] + +Arrived off the Bonny, and at sunset made sail in chase of another +schooner, which managed to get away from us during the night. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 4.] + +At daylight we were again off the Bonny, where we found _Pelican_. I +received orders from Commander Popham to cruise between latitudes 4° +and 2° north, longitude 3° 30′ and 6° east and the coast, and to wait +off Cape Formosa for _Buzzard_, who would supply us with provisions. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 8.] + +Last night, while cruising off Cape Formosa under topsails, a sail was +reported ahead. All sail was made in chase, and, having a fresh breeze, +in an hour we came up with her. + +There is nothing so exciting as a chase, especially at night, when you +cannot make out what you are in chase of. Even the men of the watch +below turn out to look on, as soon as within range. + +We dropped a shot under her quarter, upon which she rounded to, and, +to our disappointment, proved to be the _Pink_, an English brig from +Liverpool, come to trade for palm-oil. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 10.] + +At daylight we sighted a rakish-looking schooner on our lee bow. A shot +brought her to. She was from the Havana, under Portuguese colours, come +out for a cargo of slaves. + +We soon after made a man-of-war to windward, which proved to be +_Waterwitch_. She brought us orders to proceed to our station. + +In the afternoon, while at dinner, a strange sail was reported in-shore +of us. We both made sail, steering one to the eastward and the other to +the west of the stranger. + +[Illustration: _A Slaver._] + +Just before sunset we discovered that she had another vessel in +company. We lost sight of them after sunset, but, continuing our course +in-shore, about nine o’clock, with the assistance of a bright moon and +a night glass, we discovered three vessels at anchor off the river St. +Barbara. They were all of them slavers belonging to the Havana--the +_Fecilidades_, brig, carrying 2 guns, 228 tons, 42 men, and the _Maria +Segunda_, schooner, 1 gun, 107 tons, 28 men. + +One of them was prepared to take in a cargo of slaves, the others, +a brig and schooner, had lately arrived, and had not yet got rid +of their trading cargo. They had more the appearance of yachts than +slavers. + +Three days afterwards, the _Maria Segunda_, with slaves on board, +escaped from the _Waterwitch_ boats. Her gig was the only boat that got +hold of her. She was commanded by a midshipman named Bowles, who held +on a quarter of an hour after he had one killed and another man wounded +out of a crew of four. + +The slaver had eight men killed. Mr. Bowles used a fowling-piece, +with which his coxswain remarked he picked them off as if he had been +shooting larks. The cutter and pinnace never succeeded in getting +alongside, although they exchanged shots. + +The slave trade will never be put a stop to unless by the consent of +the European Powers. + +Although the Spaniards and a few Portuguese and Brazilians are the only +fellows who have enterprise sufficient to engage in the trade, there is +not a vessel on the coast that is not supplied with papers allowing her +to wear the colours of other nations; the Spanish flag is nearly the +only one that is never seen. A beautiful Spanish brig which fitted out +at Barcelona, close to us, was found under Russian colours. + +Lieutenant Hill, of the _Saracen_, having boarded a brigantine manned +by Spaniards, but under Portuguese colours, had her Captain on board +with his papers, and on Hill telling him his papers would not do, as +they mentioned he was manned with two-thirds Portuguese, he exclaimed: +“I am the most unfortunate fellow in the world. This is the third +vessel I have lost in two years. That blackguard at Porto Praya told me +they were all correct, and I paid him a thousand dollars.” But Hill +could not detain him. + +Last year there were upwards of 30,000 negroes taken off from the coast +of Africa, to the northward of the “Line.” In spite of the vigilance of +about thirteen of our cruisers, nine out of ten slavers escape. I have +no doubt that as many more slaves are shipped to the southward of the +“Line.” For every slaver taken by the British cruisers, an extra price +is put on the slaves when they arrive at their destination; and, as +their value increases, so will the number of vessels employed. + +The Captain of the _John Begg_, a Liverpool brig from Old Calabar, +who had purchased 500 slaves, was so closely blockaded by one of +our cruisers that he kept them penned up, and 200 of them died of +starvation. He afterwards left them to their fate, and of course they +were resold to the next vessel that arrived. Many negroes voluntarily +leave their country, and come to the islands of St. Thomas and Prince’s +to live with their countrymen who had been bought. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 11.] + +We now proceeded to our cruising-ground, and for twenty-one days saw +nothing but a palm-tree, washed out of some river. We were completely +out of fresh provisions, and the only thing to break through the +dullest three weeks I ever passed at sea was the hooking of a shark or +dolphin, both of which, latterly, we considered luxuries. To add to the +enlivenment of the scene, we were enveloped in a thick haze, occasioned +by the Hamattan wind, which generally, in these latitudes, commences in +the month of January. It is a hot, dry wind; the haze, which neither +sun nor moon can penetrate, is occasioned by the white dust or fine +sand blown off the deserts of Africa. One’s view is confined to within +a cable’s length of the ship. Vessels near the land generally get so +completely covered with it that it takes several days to wash with +fresh water. Our look-out men from the mast-head and foreyard-arm looked +like millers. + +During the Hamattans slavers generally escape. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI + +A RENDEZVOUS OF CRUISERS + + +[Sidenote: 1838. Jan. 1.] + +Latitude 4° north and longitude 4° east on the first Monday of the +month was the appointed rendezvous for nearly all the cruisers. + +On our arrival, we found _Pelican_, _Scout_, and _Fair Rosamond_ +already there. Our old fellow-cruiser _Columbine_, Commander Thomas +Henderson, joined the following morning. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 3.] + +_Saracen_ and _Bonetta_ arrived; they had parted company with _Dolphin_ +the previous night. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 5.] + +_Forester_ arrived from England to relieve _Columbine_. Being to the +northward, we were the first to notice a strange sail. The senior +officer, Commander Popham, of the _Pelican_, mustered the crews and +inspected the vessels of all of us, which he did with the pomp and show +of an Admiral. He invited the Commanders to dinner, and did the whole +thing very well. _Pelican_ was in good discipline, beautifully clean +and neat about the rigging. + +We had no manœuvring; this coast is not the station for it. The climate +is bad, and the cruisers seldom have all their men on board. None of +them had points in their sails below the second reef, and sky-sails +seemed the order of the day. + +_Scout_ loomed large in the Mosquito Fleet; she was clean and very nice +inside. + +_Columbine_ looked as she always did--beautiful. I think her by far the +most perfect of Symonds’ craft. No man understood better how to fit a +sail than Henderson. + +_Saracen’s_ Commander, Hill, is an active fellow, but his vessel is a +brute, and nothing could make her sail or look decent. + +Some changes took place in the distribution of the squadron. We took +_Columbine’s_ station, to windward of the Bight of Benin, and had the +mortification of seeing her depart for old England before us, although +a shorter time in commission. + +_Forester_ lost six of her crew on her way down from Sierra Leone. + +Of the prize crew sent up by _Fair Rosamond_ with her Scotch prize, all +had died except the officer. + +Of two prize crews from _Bonetta_, only four men returned alive. + +_Curlew_ lost three men of her crew: last year she had been nearly +unmanned from deaths. + +The _Raven_ cutter, surveying, was lying at Accra, so disabled from +loss of men and officers as to be unable to go to sea. + +Popham decided to go to them at once. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 7.] + +Having obtained provisions from _Bonetta_, and put letters for England +on board _Columbine_, we parted for our station--latitude 4° north to +the land and the meridian of Greenwich. The weather was thick and hazy; +a Hamattan had just commenced. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 11.] + +Not having been able to get a correct observation, we were steering for +the land with leads both going, when I discovered through the fog a +vessel at anchor. Boats were hoisted out, manned, armed, and away in +a few minutes--in fact they were alongside the vessel before she had +seen us. In hoisting my gig from off the booms, the foreyard tackle got +choked, but cleared with a jerk, pitched Lathom across the gunwale and +broke his arm. We were obliged to invalid him home. He was a steady, +good man, and a born artist. The vessel proved to be the _Camoëns_, a +lovely brig of 180 tons under Portuguese colours. She carried one long +gun, and was nearly ready for taking a cargo of slaves. She was painted +with a white ribbon--the first slaver we had seen so painted. Her +commander called himself Feliz Cosme Mendil. + +On the same day, just as the men had dined, a sail ahead was +discovered. The wind was light, and the boats immediately sent away. On +closing with her, we found she had two large canoes (such as are used +for embarking slaves) towing astern. Observing the boats’ crews had got +on board, and appeared inclined to remain, we concluded that we had +at last caught a prize. We sent on board and examined her. The canoes +astern were for landing her cargo. Found five negroes on board and +seventeen more in the boats astern, and I believe, had we sent her to +Sierra Leone, she would have been condemned, as the negroes, although +not part of her cargo, were the property of a slave-dealer, who was on +board for the purpose of purchasing. But, taking into consideration +the dreadful mortality among the prize crews lately sent to Sierra +Leone, as well as the small value of a nearly empty vessel, we did not +detain her. The slave procurer was sent on board the _Childers_ to be +examined, when he was immediately recognised by some liberated African +boys who were on board as part complement from _Columbine_. These boys +had been kidnapped or bought--one was bought for a keg of rum--by +these brutes and sold to the captain of a slave-vessel, which vessel +had been captured by one of our cruisers. They spotted him, and would +have torn the shirt off his back had they not been prevented. One boy +stated that this fellow had stolen him and buried him in the sand on +the beach for a whole day with nothing out but his head, over which the +fiend placed a calabash, and threatened to kill the boy if he made a +noise. + +The African children captured in the slave-vessels are sent to school +at Sierra Leone, and, when big enough, are put on board men-of-war on +the station, and placed under artificers to enable them to learn some +trade by which to maintain themselves. The boys turn out very well, but +little is ever made of the grown-up negroes. + +The vessel was another beautiful brig called the _Amigos_, with raking +masts and a white ribbon, which appears to be the fashion on this part +of the coast. She was 150 tons, and had a crew of twenty-five men. The +master was a Portuguese named Don Ferando José Canieras, an obliging, +civil fellow. Most of the captains of these slavers are superior men; +some belong to good Spanish and Portuguese families; generally young. I +believe many of them take command of these vessels for the excitement +of the service. Canieras appeared a gentleman-like fellow: above having +any personal dislike to us from the unpleasant duty on which we were +employed. He invited me to dine with him, and offered his services in +boats, and many other ways. + +One of the slavers on the coast is commanded by a man from Barcelona, +who had been on board _Childers_ at a dance and supper I gave three +years ago. + +From the _Dos Amigos_ we ascertained we were off Cape St. Paul’s, the +Hamattan having changed the direction of the current, which we found +setting strong to the westward. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 13.] + +Having been on salt grub for more than a month, sent pinnace into +Quitta for bullocks and water, intending to return in a day or two. +Stood to the eastward. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 14.] + +At daylight found ourselves close off Little Popoe, in which lay +three suspicious-looking vessels. _El Liberal_, master Don Francisco +Gonzalo, was a fine brig of 160 tons, mounting two guns, with a crew of +twenty-six men. She was not quite ready for her slaves, having still +part of her trading cargo on board. + +The _Dulcinea_, a small schooner of 81 tons, and crew of 18 men, +appeared to be perfectly ready for taking her slaves on board. She, +too, was a rakish American-built craft. Her Captain, Don Fernando +Penez, was on shore. + +The third, the _Louisa_, was a pretty brigantine of 120 tons, carrying +a crew of 24 men, commanded by Don Juan Fanara Amez. She appeared +nearly ready for a start. + +Having examined each vessel, we ran along the coast to Quitta and fresh +beef. + +About twelve miles to the westward of Little Popoe, a large canoe came +off to offer the services of the owner, a Caboceer, an independent +chief. He sported over his house a large white flag with a Dutch head +to it. + +The coxswain of the boat, who brought off his master’s gold stick +of office for a bottle of rum, informed us that the slave schooner +_Dulcinea_, at Popoe, would embark between 200 and 300 slaves, and that +she would get under way at 3 P.M., and was cruising about to see if the +coast was clear. At 6 o’clock she was to embark her slaves. I promised +the fellow, in case of capture, $20 for his information. + +In the evening we boarded a Brazilian polacca brig belonging to the +same owners as one of the slave vessels we had already examined. But +though not fitted for slaves, she brought from Bahia that sort of cargo +generally used in the purchase of them. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 16.] + +On arriving off Quitta, we found the _Dos Amigos_, whose Captain had +been kind in lending his canoes to get off our fresh provisions, and +before our arrival accommodated the officers and stewards with beds. + +The only return we could make for his courtesy would be to capture him +when he had embarked his slaves. + +We found here a Portuguese who called himself “John Thomson,” speaking +English, ready to give any information respecting slave vessels. Having +given him full directions and a promise, hoisted boats in and stood out +to sea as if going off the coast, and then proceeded off Little Popoe +to watch the movements of the _Dulcinea_. + +On the afternoon of the appointed day we were all anxiety. The weather +was hazy, but we kept well in the offing, and at 5 P.M. bore up for the +land. + +Just at sunset observed through the haze a sail to leeward. We made +sail, and were closing with chase when dark claimed her. + +She being in-shore, we steered such a course as, in our calculation, +must have cut her off, but we shortly discovered breakers on the beach, +and no sail. _El Liberal_ being the only vessel there, we stood out +to sea again in hopes of cutting _Dulcinea_ off to the south-east, as +after dark she must have bore up and run along the beach to leeward. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 18.] + +The following day, at noon, we gave it up, and made sail for Quitta, +to see what news my new acquaintance “Mr. Thomson” might have obtained. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 19.] + +Next day, at noon, when steering towards Quitta, the weather hazy, sail +was seen on the weather bow, and we went in chase. We soon discovered +her to be a man-of-war brigantine, and it was not, owing to the +haze, until after we had pitched a shot somewhere near her that she +discovered us, when we exchanged numbers with _Dolphin_; she is the +nicest-looking vessel we have seen, and appears in very good order. + +She had been about eighteen months in commission, and had captured +16,000 slaves--nine different vessels. But all the officers, with the +exception of the clerk-in-charge, and most of the crew had fallen +victims to the climate. Every one of her prizes had been taken by +falling upon them accidentally. + +It took us the remainder of the afternoon to supply _Dolphin_ with +provisions. Just as we had finished, a small schooner was running past, +and, although we had our heads in the direction to cut her off, she did +not seem inclined either to shorten sail or show colours. + +I directed a shot to be fired across her bows, which happened to fall +within a few yards of her; down came her sails. + +It was the Portuguese schooner, _San Igual_, 87 tons, mounting two long +nines, carrying 24 men. The master, José Ferreira, with the usual cargo +of cloth and tobacco; only thirty-three days from the Havana. She had +been boarded by the _Hyacinth_. + +_Dolphin_ parted for Prince’s Island and we for Quitta, where we got +water, not particularly good. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 20.] + +In the evening observed the vessels at anchor in Whydah Roads. Whydah +was formerly famous for slaves, but owing to the great Fernandez not +being so active as he used to be, the slave captains prefer Lagos. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 22.] + +We found the _Espartante_, a fine Brazilian brig, 250 tons, a crew of +17, mounting two long 12-pounders, belonging to Bahia; the _Julia_, a +Portuguese brig, Don Antonio Lavandeira, 94 tons, fitted for the slave +trade; and the _Feliceades_, Don José Iguanoda Costa, a fine brig, 176 +tons, carrying 18 men, with two 12-pounders. She was flying Portuguese +colours, and fitted for slaves. + +Finding nothing on which I could lay hands, ran to the limits of my +station and commenced working to windward, to try our luck about forty +miles off-shore. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 26.] + +Having got as far as Cape St. Paul’s, went on to Accra, the only +civilised place. Sent the pinnace to reconnoitre, and the cutter to +Occo, another likely place. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 29.] + +Arrived off Accra. As it was thirteen miles to the westward of our +station, did not anchor. We found no less than eleven vessels at +anchor; among them the _Triumphant_, a French corvette, 900 tons, +mounting twenty-four long 32-pounders. She could not sail, and was +attended by a schooner, looking as nice as paint and putty could make +her. + +_El Liberal_ brought the account of our having boarded her in Popoe +Roads, about two hours after the departure of the _Dulcinea_ with her +cargo of slaves. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 30.] + +The next morning we met the brig _Enterprise_, under Portuguese +colours, the largest slaver on the coast. De Souza, her master, is an +intelligent, well-educated young Spaniard, whose father is the owner of +half the slavers on the coast. + +In the evening at Senegal found two vessels, the schooner _Josephine_ +and _Diligente_ brig, at anchor off Occo, both ready for embarkation +of slaves. We remained invisibly near for two days. + +The time allowed for the provisions in the boats having expired, and +the time of rendezvous at hand, we were obliged to give it up. + +Found the _Diligente_, a fine brig of 174 tons, with her slave deck +partly laid, water completed. By way of deception the first two +breakers that came to hand (and which are generally tasted by the +boarding officer to ascertain if they are filled with fresh water, if +for ballast with salt) were found filled with salt, the remainder fresh. + +The same attempt at deception was practised by the _Joseph_ schooner. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 3.] + +Fell in with the _Fortuna_; she was coming to an anchor in man-of-war +style off Owye, as we were standing in towards Quitta to pick up the +boats. + +From the description I had received of the vessel, I knew her the +moment we saw her, and went on board to see her Captain, José +Antinio Barbozo, being the same man who commanded the large slaver +_Velo_ when she fought the _Primrose_ in 1820. He is a handsome, +intelligent-looking man, a Biscayan. He bore the marks of the action +about him, having but one arm. + +The _Fortuna_ is also a very handsome brig, in beautiful order. + +Barbozo informed us of the _Saracen’s_ having chased a schooner off +Whydah, full of slaves, which, however, got away. The _Fortuna_ +observed the _Saracen_ before the slaver, and made a private signal, +which enabled her to escape. + +Don José was civil. He pressed me to breakfast; offered cigars, etc. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 6.] + +This being the appointed day for our rendezvous, we had no time to +lose. We got there during the night, and at daylight exchanged numbers +with _Scout_ and _Saracen_. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 7.] + +The senior officer not coming in, we parted, but not until _Scout_ had +beaten us in a royal breeze on a bowline, she being the same vessel +that three years ago we beat in the Mediterranean. + +Having more guns than we were likely to use, six of them were sent +below, where they were suspended by chains on the lower deck to the +midship stanchions, to accelerate speed. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 11.] + +2 P.M.--A sail reported on weather-bow; breeze light and variable. + +It being a likely place, we immediately gave chase, and, by tacking +and manœuvring, at sunset we had gained considerably on a fore-and-aft +rigged schooner, evidently trying to escape us. We were, however, +gaining considerably, but night came on and hid him from our view. + +At Quitta we fell in with the _Mansfield_, a Liverpool palm-oil ship. +Her master murdered two natives in the Old Calabar river a few months +back. + +All the trade for palm-oil and ivory is carried on with the natives by +means of barter, one merchant supplying the natives with rum, clothes, +etc.; not being particular, the rum is frequently watered. + +The natives soon detected this, and thought they had equal right to +water their oil (forgetting it is more easily discovered), and took +alongside the _Mansfield_ two small casks of oil mixed with water. + +Of course, when this was discovered, the casks were returned to them +with the usual allowance of blows and abuse, which is on all occasions +liberally bestowed by skippers and mates on the unfortunate negroes. + +Unluckily for the two with the watered oil, brave Captain Lillie came +off from the shore, and got on deck from the opposite side of the +vessel before the canoe was out of hail, and being indignant that the +blacks should have attempted to play off such a trick on him, hailed +the canoe to come alongside. + +The natives, knowing what they might expect, gave way like devils for +the shore. The skipper then discharged a fowling-piece, which, being +loaded with small shot, had no effect; he then deliberately loaded a +musket, and with one shot killed both poor fellows! + +In this part of the world murders are far too often committed with +impunity, and complaints are made by the merchants that men-of-war +afford trade no protection. + +Of course the natives retaliate, and, what with sickness and accidents, +our merchant vessels generally lose two-thirds of their crews. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 14.] + +Arrived in West Bay. Completed water; sailed the following day to join +the senior officer off Lagos. + +On arriving on the coast station, look-out men are stationed at each +masthead, one of the crew and the other a Krooman, with the reward of a +doubloon for the one who should first see a sail that proved a prize. + +We showed no lights at night; a small hole in the binnacle was all that +was allowed the helmsman. We had one of the smartest signalmen I had +met, whom I supplied with a glass worthy of him. + +A sail to the north being announced, the signalman went aloft and +reported a square-rigged vessel before the wind. On deck he expressed +his opinion that she was a man-of-war. We expected none from that +direction. He judged from the squareness of her yards, and soon +described her as an 18 gun sloop. He had counted the cloths in her +main topgallant sail; later, when he could see the foreyard above the +horizon, he pronounced her as from home. I thought this a rather strong +assertion, and inquired: “How the deuce he could tell?” + +He drew my attention to three mid-ship cloths of the fore-topsail being +discoloured. + +“What had that to do with it?” + +He explained that the look-out men were young hands, and their stomachs +could not stand the difference of motion in a swell. + +She proved to be the _Modeste_, 18, commanded by Harry Eyres, just from +home. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 20.] + +Arrived at Lagos, having had but one chase since leaving West Bay, and +she proved to be _Fair Rosamond_. + +Fell in with senior officer, and from him learned our orders were to +return home. What is very provoking, they had been out some six months; +I had been promoted December 5, 1837. There was also a letter from the +Admiral, desiring me to proceed to Spithead in October of last year! + +We found _Scout_, _Dolphin_, and _Pelican_, with whom we remained a day +or two, to enable them to write letters for England. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 22.] + +Parted company, with orders from Popham to join the Commander-in-Chief +at Ascension. + +Arrived at Accra, and took in stock and other necessaries. We got +pretty well filled with parrots, monkeys, tiger-cats, crown birds (a +beautiful species of crested stork), and all sorts of curiosities, dead +and alive. + +Our chief object in calling here was to take leave of our friend +Bannerman, whose kindness and attention to the service nothing could +exceed. + +The Danish Governor, Lieutenant Murck, paid me a visit, and returned +our parting salute. + +The time between quitting Accra and crossing the “Line” was the only +chance we had of picking up a prize. South of the equator, if we found +slavers, we were forbidden to capture them. + +Although ordered home in October of last year, and now a captain, I had +nothing to show for it, and was sent by Commander Brunswick Popham to +join the Commander-in-Chief at Ascension, in case he might have letters +for England. + +We had toiled much and caught nothing, and were approaching the +equator, on the south of which slavers were free. On going below, I +thought how nice it would be if we could finish our commission by the +capture of one. + +I was awoke just before daylight by the officer of the watch announcing +something to leeward. Followed him on deck with my Dollond, and took up +a position on the forecastle. + +There could be no mistake--the rake of her masts, the small peak to her +boom mainsail, the perfect set of her sails. + +We had made all sail in chase, and were gaining on her. Ordered an +officer and prize crew to be ready. At eight bells we had risen the +foot of mainsail. She altered course, which was in our favour. + +The wind fell. With fire-engine and fire-buckets passed up, wetted our +well-worn sails. She moved slowly, with occasional airs; so did we. + +Night fell calm and dark. Ten o’clock, out boats, and sent them in +chase, with water and steering compasses. + +At 11.10 moon rose, bringing a light breeze. Our brig, being light, +skimmed over the water, as did our chase. Having to hoist in boats, +although we kept in sight all the next day, we lost our chance. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 12.] + +Called at Prince’s Island, watered ship, and took leave of Madame +Ferraz. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 29.] + +Came to off Ascension. Found _Fair Rosamond_ and _Raven_. + +[Sidenote: April 1.] + +Arrived _Thalia_, with flag of Rear-Admiral Sir Patrick Campbell, who, +after receiving our Kroomen, ordered us home. + +It appeared to me that while cruisers are not allowed by treaties +with Spain and Portugal to capture vessels fitted for the slave trade +without slaves on board, we did more harm than good. Along the coast +negroes are brought from the interior and confined in pens, and, when +closely watched by our cruisers, are frequently starved to death. + +If a slaver is captured with slaves on board, the price rises on +the other side of the Atlantic, which is immediately followed by an +increase in the number of vessels that come out. Some of these vessels +are owned by the sons of wealthy Spaniards, who purchase American +clippers, easily fitted as slavers, who come to the coast of Africa as +much on pleasure as business. + +The little Spanish I picked up at Barcelona enabled me to converse +freely with these agreeable young roués, who, if they did not carry +slaves, easily kept our cruisers employed by drawing their attention +from the coast to chase these yacht-like slavers. They found matches in +our fifteen cruisers. + +[Sidenote: May 20.] + +Arrived at Portsmouth. + +[Sidenote: May 21.] + +_Childers_ inspected by Captain Dundas of _Britannia_. + +[Sidenote: May 26.] + +Visited by Rear-Admiral Superintendent the Hon. Duncombe Bouverie. Ship +paid off. + +On _Childers_ going into dock, it was discovered that seven feet of her +false keel was partly athwart ships, which accounts for the escape of +several loaded slavers. I _thought_ she sailed better on one tack than +on the other. + + + + +CHAPTER XXII + +ENGLAND + + +[Sidenote: 1838. June.] + +In this book I profess to write my sailor life only. But what I laughed +at as a boy I now regret as a man, and the next few pages may be +skipped. + +Now my own master, lodging in Charles Street, Berkeley Square, and +attached to the staff of the Duke of Sussex. I renewed my acquaintance +with General Sir John Crosbie, who had arrived for the season, in Lower +Grosvenor Street, with his handsome family. + +On June 14 I attained my twenty-ninth year; was franked to Epsom in +a hansom by my brother officer, Lord Frederick Gordon. At Prince +Esterhazy’s ball the following night, and to that of the Queen on the +18th, the anniversary of Waterloo. + +I see, too, that having dined with Maynard at Knightsbridge Barracks +one Sunday evening, we adjourned to Limmer’s, where we were joined +by Lord Waterford and three drags fresh from a whitebait dinner at +Greenwich. We got involved in a row in Conduit Street, and I passed the +night in Marlborough Street Station. + +Next morning three others as well as myself were had up before the +sitting magistrate and fined £5 each, which I could ill afford; but the +most unpleasant part was our names appearing in the papers next day +under the heading of “Ruffianism in High Life.” + +[Sidenote: June 28.] + +I was present in Westminster Abbey at the coronation of our most +gracious Majesty, Queen Victoria, on June 28. A splendid spectacle. It +was of further interest to see the peeresses putting on their coronets, +taking time from Her Majesty. Amongst them was my sister Anne, who was +made Countess of Leicester on the accession of the Queen. + +The following day I was at a full-dress ball given by Lady Lansdowne to +the Foreign Ambassadors. There I saw, talking together, Marshal Soult, +Prince Talleyrand, and the Duke of Wellington. + +[Sidenote: July.] + +Early in July was at a very jolly party given at the Star and Garter, +Richmond, by the famous sculptor, Sir Francis Chantrey. + +On the 5th dined with Charlie Napier, it being the anniversary of his +victory over Don Miguel’s fleet. + +On July 6 attended the Duke of Sussex to a full-dress ball given by +Marshal Soult, who had come as special Ambassador, to represent France +at the Queen’s coronation. Duke of Wellington there. + +About this time was troubled with a violent cough, which spoilt my fun, +and obliged me to forego the Lord Mayor’s and other entertainments. All +other remedies failing, decided on change of air, and a visit to my +late Chief, Admiral Sir Josias Rowley, in Ireland. Started by rail to +Birmingham, and dined at Liverpool the same evening, although we had to +coach some forty miles, the line not being then complete. I got rid of +my cough _en route_. So much for change of air. + +Passed an agreeable week at Mount Campbell with the Rowleys, a lovely +spot on the banks of the Shannon, returning by the Sligo mail to Dublin. + +Sir John Crosbie left London for Watergate at the end of July, taking +me with him for the Goodwood week. Sir Joseph Hawley, who joined at the +same time, owned the _Mischief_ yacht, and invited the Watergate party +for a cruise. + +We embarked at Portsmouth for Cowes Regatta, the General and his +daughters landing each evening to sleep at Portsmouth, Cowes, +Southampton, or wherever the yacht happened to be. + +[Sidenote: August.] + +After a charming cruise we returned to Watergate. Having landed the +Crosbies, Hawley and I went round the coast, touching at Dover, where +I visited my friends the Rices, at Dane Court, their eldest son Edward +having been with me in the _Childers_. + +Continuing our cruise, we anchored in Holkham Bay on October 24. +Landed on the beach and walked up to the house, making our unexpected +appearance just in time for dinner. + +The wind still continuing fresh from the westward, we sailed for +Antwerp and Flushing, and anchored the following evening between the +two, going on by rail to Brussels, where we spent three pleasant days, +meeting the Montagues, Ranelagh, and others. + +There being no chance of a change of wind, Hawley, who was anxious +to get to the Mediterranean, decided on proceeding to Italy through +France, and offered to frank me, which I was too much of a spoon to +accept. + +[Sidenote: Dec.] + +I spent the next fortnight in London, like a man about to do something +desperate. One day I walked to the Stud House, fourteen miles, to +dinner. + +[Sidenote: 1839. Feb. 16.] + +Got my father to apply to the Archbishop of Canterbury for a special +license, which he granted, conferring his blessing on me at the same +time. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 21.] + +The General, with Georgie and Kate Crosbie, arrived at the Brunswick +Hotel from Watergate. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 25.] + +Kate and I were married at St. George’s, Hanover Square. My father gave +the breakfast. We took our departure for Hastings, sitting behind two +pairs of Mr. Newman’s greys. + +[Sidenote: May 25.] + +We went to the Birthday Drawing-room, afterwards to the Master of +Horse’s full-dress official dinner. + +We were at the Queen’s ball, London. Almack’s was seldom missed. + +[Sidenote: June 18.] + +Attended the wedding of Sara Crosbie and Sir Joseph Hawley at St. +George’s, Hanover Square. + +Returned by mail to Portsmouth; went on alone to Plymouth to see my +old friend and Captain, Lord John Churchill, just ready for sea in the +_Druid_, my old shipmates, George Goldsmith and Jonas Coaker, both +belonging to her. + +[Sidenote: August.] + +We went on a visit to my cousins the Delmés at Cams. While +there, established a friendship with Captain Sir Francis +Collier--extraordinary good story-teller. + +Invited to meet the Duke of Sussex at Southwick. Frank Collier among +the guests. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 20.] + +Took Henry Coke to Gosport, where he became one of “Burney’s Bulldogs” +preparatory to entering the Navy. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 21.] + +Took temporarily a house at Wells. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 28.] + +Returned to Droxford; arranging future home; thence to London. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 30.] + +A day of troubles. On arrival in Arlington Street, found letters from +my sister Anne, announcing the unexpected confinement of my wife, +whose life had been spared, but not that of the child. Got to the +post-office, Lombard Street, as the Cambridge mail was coming out +_full_. Told cabman to follow the mail, which he did for three miles +before it stopped at the Pot and Flower. + +Offered £5 for a place. It being the last day of the month, the mail +was unusually heavy with newspapers and monthly publications. The guard +allowed me to stand on the iron step till we reached Cambridge. It +was bitterly cold, with snow falling. At Cambridge I got an outside +place on the pair-horse mail to Lynn, and so to Wells, where I arrived +exhausted. Found wife better than I expected. The small body had been +taken to Wareham by my brother Tom, where I went next day and saw the +child in its coffin. + +In the afternoon Tom and I dug a hole in his garden, where my little +Rufus was buried. + +The engagement of the Queen to Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg was +announced on November 23. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII + +SHORE TIME + + +[Sidenote: 1840. Jan. 20.] + +Left Holkham with wife for Watergate while Droxford was being made +habitable. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 3.] + +Jack Crosbie, who was laid up in bed, gave me a mount with Wyndham’s +hounds. Meet at Aldsworth Bridge: found at Stanstead; through Watergate +and Up Park; killed at the Semaphore, West Marden; fast run, forty +minutes, Jack’s horse distinguishing himself. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 10.] + +Queen’s wedding-day. My father and brother George present. Had a mount +on Bill Crosbie’s Brown Windsor. Meet at Aldsworth Bridge. + +[Sidenote: April 3.] + +General Crosbie, wife, and self dined at Goodwood to meet the Duke of +Cambridge. + +[Sidenote: April 28.] + +Went to London. Lunched next day with father at Buckingham Palace. + +[Sidenote: May 9.] + +Invitation for wife and self to the Queen’s ball. To London by “Yeoman” +coach. Dined with father, and so to the ball. + +[Sidenote: May 25.] + +Returned to Watergate. Rode with Frank Collier to see Southwick, which +had been completely burnt down. The loss to Mr. Thistlewaite fully +£25,000, independent of insurance. + +[Sidenote: June 1.] + +To Winchester, by train to London. Attended committee at our failing +Old Naval Club in Bond Street. + +On returning, our train, stopping at the curve, Fareham, was run into +by an engine at full speed. Many hurt, but no lives lost, three empty +horse-boxes, going for racers from Ascot, receiving the first shock. +Lord Saltoun bruised; Colonel Lambert cut about the face. Got late to +Droxford. + +[Sidenote: June 22.] + +Found my small groom, George, nearly exhausted, hanging on a high gate, +caught by the leg; was only just in time to rescue him. + +During these last two years enjoyed sport with the Garniers, Delmés, +Sloane-Stanleys, Crosbies, and many others, never, if I could help it, +missing a day’s hunting. + +[Sidenote: July 28.] + +At Cams. Goodwood week. To races on Delmé’s drag. The Cup won by Duke +of Orleans’ Beggarman. + +The best week ever known. My father gave me a cheque for £50, which I +dropped riding home. Sent a man to look for it; he found the cheque on +the road, four miles away, the envelope having been torn off. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 1.] + +Walked from Watergate to Droxford and back--fifteen miles each way. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 15.] + +Lady Farnham arrived. On coming down to dinner she called out, +“Ninety-five, and all alive!” + +[Sidenote: Sept. 23.] + +With George Payne to Rugby. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 24.] + +Some good rabbit-shooting at Lord Denbigh’s, Newnham Paddox. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 25.] + +By rail to grand musical festival at Birmingham. Went to see Warwick +Castle, which I thought second only to Windsor. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 13.] + +At Lord Denbigh’s, after shooting, tried to drive seven deer that had +got out of the park. Got a fine buck in; does will follow. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 20.] + +Lark across country to Dunchurch, I riding Sir Grey Skipwith’s young +Belzoni horse. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 20.] + +We went on a visit to the Stud House. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 21.] + +Express sent to father to go to Buckingham Palace. He returned in the +afternoon, having been present at the birth of the Princess Royal. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 22.] + +With my father to Buckingham Palace. Ate cake and drank caudle. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 2.] + +Visited the Seymours at Hampton Court. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 3.] + +Brother George arrived at Stud House, giving account of a man having +been found at midnight in a room adjoining the Queen’s bedroom. + +The bones of the great Napoleon arrived in France. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 9.] + +With my father to the cattle show, Lord Spencer, Duke of Richmond, and +farmers overhauling fat beasts. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 21.] + +We started for Warwickshire, father, who never risked his life on a +railway, paying for our posters. Found a large family party at Newbold. + +[Sidenote: Christmas Day.] + +Six of Sir Grey Skipwith’s sons and as many daughters at dinner. + +Skating in forenoon. Walked to Leamington--fifteen miles--where General +and family were staying. Put up by Lindsay. + +[Sidenote: 1841. Jan. 1] + +Mount on Sir Grey’s young horse, with the Atherstane. Meet at the +“Three Cocks”; fast thing of thirty minutes; some pretty jumping. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 11.] + +To Leamington for wife to consult Jephson, the famous surgeon. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 13.] + +Got another mount; meet with the Atherstane. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 17.] + +To Warwick Races. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 18.] + +To steeplechase near Offchurch. Sullivan, Maddocks, and Beauchamp in +the brook. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 20.] + +Back at Droxford. No place like home. + +[Sidenote: April 1.] + +To Milletts’ to dinner; sending wheelbarrow for traps. My wife’s health +obliged us at once to go abroad, without means to do so; but we went. + +[Sidenote: May 25.] + +At Aix-la-Chapelle met my respected Chief, Hyde Parker, and had some +pleasant walks with him. + +[Sidenote: May 31.] + +At Bonn saw some curious things in the museum; also a vault under +the church: about a score of dead monks laid in rows. They were well +preserved, having been kept so by no other means, our guide informed +us, than “God’s will,” owing to their sacred calling. They had been +there 300 years, and were disgusting to look at. + +Without means for travelling comfortably, obliged to do much by river. + +[Sidenote: June 23.] + +Baden-Baden. A man in the Kursaal shook hands with me, because I looked +so “devilish like one of the family.” It was my brother Bury, whom I +had not seen for twelve years. His wife Fanny looking so pretty, and +but little altered. + +[Sidenote: June 24.] + +Dined with Bury--a good English dinner. Went to hell afterwards, and +lost forty-five francs. + +[Sidenote: June 26.] + +Early to hell, losing seventy-five francs. Took leave of Baden-Baden. +Started by _another_ dirty steamer for Wiesbaden, thence home. + +[Sidenote: July 29.] + +Arrived at Dover. Detained two hours at the Custom House, because I +would not pay a land-shark to clear my luggage. + +[Sidenote: July 31.] + +Goodwood races. To my regret could not go. Missed meeting father, whose +horse “Ralph” won the Drawing-room and Produce Stakes, and with a colt +by “Taurus,” the Racing Stakes. He most likely would have tipped me! + + + + +CHAPTER XXIV + +_DIDO_ CORVETTE + + +[Sidenote: 1841. Aug.] + +Heard from an old friend that a Captain, junior to myself, had declined +an offer of the _Dido_. I had homes in plenty, but these could not +last; my wife handsome and charming--we were welcomed everywhere; but +my means were small. + +I went to the General, explained matters, which he had long foreseen. +While he lived, my wife, without encumbrances, would never be without a +home; but he could not live for ever. + +I wrote to Lord Minto: “Understanding a junior had declined an +appointment to the _Dido_, I should be too glad to take her or anything +else.” + +[Sidenote: Aug. 31.] + +By the end of the month I was appointed to the _Dido_, 18, 734 tons--a +beautiful corvette, one of Symonds’ best. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 3.] + +Hurried to Sheerness, where I found my kind friend, Vice-Admiral Sir +Henry Digby, K.C.B., and Lady Andover, in command. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 4.] + +Hoisted the pennant--_Dido_ in commission. Sheerness was hardly the +place for lodging or accommodation, but the Lieutenant at the dockyard +gates kindly took wife and self in. We were always welcome at the +Admiral’s table. + +The Captain-Superintendent, Sir John Hill, was a fine old seaman, +but ignorant of dockyard work. He had found favour with the Duke of +Wellington in assisting the landing of troops in Portugal. + +My father, who commanded the Norfolk Militia, was here when the mutiny +broke out in 1797, and was in charge of the ringleader who had assumed +the name of Admiral Richard Parker. He was executed on June 30 with the +principal ringleaders. Many had escaped, but orders issued for their +apprehension wherever caught. I was told that more seamen were hanged +than had been in the mutiny. + +Our Admiral’s house, although it loomed large, had but small +accommodation; the dining-room was the largest, and the table always +full. The guests kept a one-horse fly continually moving half an hour +before dinner. + +But to return to my _Dido_. She was in an uncovered dock, masts out, no +copper on; rudder in a shed repairing, and 9 feet water in the hold. + +I soon found that one of the warrant officers was devoid of +intelligence. Having selected a smart man, applied for an exchange, but +was informed that he was under a cloud: strongly suspected of having +set fire to the dockyard, that he might get credit for his exertions in +extinguishing it. Preferring a rogue to a fool, I succeeded in getting +him appointed. The first thing he did was to bore a hole in _Dido’s_ +bottom and run the water off. + +Subsequently, in China, the Commander-in-Chief, Sir Thomas Cochrane, +promoted him to the flag ship. No carpenter in the fleet could trace a +better white line on a ship’s side. + +Eleven ships fitting at Chatham made it difficult to volunteer a crew; +but with a zealous and good set of officers we managed to get on. + +We had the grand old _Vengeur_ for our hulk, but were turned over later +(to make room for a larger ship) to the _Shannon_, of _Chesapeake_ fame. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 18.] + +Our marines joined: we fast assumed a respectable appearance, and my +old shipmate and friend, Bulman, later purser of _Childers_, assumed +importance. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 8.] + +We were mustered by Captain Sir Thomas Trowbridge, a Lord of the +Admiralty. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 26.] + +Sent Mr. Boyle, mate, to Lynn to raise men. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 27.] + +Went on a visit to the Romneys at the Mote, Maidstone. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 10.] + +Heard of birth of the Prince of Wales. I little knew then, what a kind +good friend I was subsequently to find in H.R.H. Arthur Noad joined; +we had been shipmates ever since I left the Naval College. There was a +fine old pilot at Sheerness named Taylor, with whom wife and I lodged. +Taylor told me he had piloted 1400 men-of-war, of which 215 were ships +of the line. + +Admiral shifted his flag from white at the fore to blue at the main, +which was saluted. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 25.] + +We were doing our best to have ship ready by December 1. Men had +joined. We were getting on rapidly in the basin. Anchors and chain +cables were close at hand. + +Symonds’ formation of the hull of the _Dido_ was perfect, and with so +great a beam that she required no ballast. + +Sir John Hill, expecting the Board of Admiralty down, ordered me to +cross topgallant yards, which were stopped up and down the lower +rigging. I suggested that with an empty, whitewashed hold, chain +cables, anchors, and water-tanks on shore alongside, it would be +unseamanlike to cross topgallant yards; at which Superintendent got +angry, and asked how I dared to disobey his orders. I replied hastily +that I did not care a straw about his orders while the flag was flying. +He went straight to the Admiral’s office. I was sent for. Inquiry took +place. Decision: That the Captain Superintendent was wrong, and that I +was disrespectful. We became great friends before parting. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 23.] + +Abbott, First Lieutenant, promoted. Glad as I was at the promotion of +my friend Abbott, it was a sad loss to _Dido_. Applied for Tottenham. +Had no time left to select a proper man, which gave me more work than I +anticipated. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 25.] + +Board of Admiralty arrived: Sir George Seymour, Mr. Corry, Captain +Brandreth, and Mr. Giffard, Secretary. Good fellows. Met them at the +Admiral’s table. They inspected dockyard, and admired _Dido_ much. +Luncheon with Sir John Hill. + +Fitting rapidly, good seamen having joined. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 1.] + +Hauled out of basin; took in moorings. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 7.] + +Saluted my kind Chief on leaving the harbour. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 8.] + +Ran through the Downs following day. Wind headed and freshened into +a gale; took shelter with some 300 merchant vessels under Dungeness. +Light bore west-south-west. No means of communication with the shore. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 14.] + +Weather more moderate; wind veered to north-west. The whole fleet of +merchant vessels got under way. Having secured a snug in-shore berth, +we could not manage to be the first to get away. Weighed, and started +under topsails, jib, and spanker, although the crowd caused much +difficulty in keeping clear. + +In addition to large trading-ships, there were fast clipper fruit +vessels, the skippers amusing themselves by taking the wind out +of other vessels’ sails. When outside, we were a mass of canvas +about three miles long by one in breadth. I imagined the beautiful +appearance of my _Dido_ was the cause of so many vessels keeping near. +On the weather bow was a decrepit collier, a fruit-clipper having taken +the wind out of her headsails. She was taken aback and got stern-way. +We had no room to bear up, but squared the main yard to caution those +astern. When I rushed forward, our bompkin was hanging by its rigging, +and all the collier’s crew, with the exception of the man at the helm, +who had only one leg, clambering on to our forecastle. + +The brig had paid off; we, or, rather, she, had cut her own stern off, +leaving a full view of her captain’s cabin. On the foremost bulkhead +was suspended a pewter pot, a clay pipe, and a shore-going hat. The +table was still standing with pewter No. 2 on it. + +A freshening breeze enabled the ships to open out. We sent a cutter +with the necessary hands to repair damages. The difficulty was to catch +the vessel. The one-legged helmsman had no control; up in the wind for +a minute, she would pay off and run before it. + +When our carpenter’s crew got to work, they found the woodwork of her +stern so rotten that she could not hold the nails which were driven in. +We had to secure the tarpaulin over the remains of the stern. Her cargo +of coal was exposed. It was sunset before we got her into Folkestone. +Luckily, with wind off shore, the sea went down. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 18] + +Ran into Spithead in a thick fog. Saluted as soon as it was clear +enough to see the flag. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 23.] + +Admiral Sir Edward Codrington, G.C.B., having kindly sent his tender +off, took leave of wife. Sailed. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 25.] + +Arrived in Plymouth Sound. At Elliot the tailors found a big +youngster, Edward Rice, with a big dog, ready to join. Find, living +here, my old friend of the 98th, Eyre, and his charming wife, who took +me in. + +[Sidenote: 1842. Jan. 2.] + +_Volage_ and _Serpent_ sailed for China. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 12.] + +Further inquiry about the brig that ran us down off Dungeness. +However, it was satisfactorily made out that it was her own fault, and +suspicious that they only wanted to get the insurance. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 20.] + +Accompanied Eyre to the Calmadys, and stopped two days. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 23.] + +Among shore friends was Frank Sheridan, brother of Mrs. Norton, a +universal favourite. He was certainly the handsomest, as well as the +most accomplished, member of that remarkable family of brothers and +sisters--with more real wit, even, than his brother Charles. He had +been appointed Treasurer of the Mauritius, and, as I had to call at the +Cape, I requested the pleasure of his company that far. My cabin was +roomy, and I could easily swing two cots. + +My other friend, Granville Loch, lately promoted to rank of +Captain--full of zeal, but being too junior for a command--was glad to +accompany me to China. There were a few troublesome people who rather +objected to Frank’s leaving the country, and who came down to Plymouth +to look after him. + +While at Plymouth, Frank was the guest of Henry Eden, Flag-Captain to +Admiral Sir Graham Moore, G.C.B., a younger brother of late General Sir +John Moore. By way of assisting them, I arranged with Gran. Loch that +he and Frank should put themselves one fine night into the Falmouth +Mail, which, on its way from London, pulled up to drop the Plymouth +bags. At daylight, by a strange coincidence, they found the pretty +_Dido_ hove to off the mouth of Falmouth Harbour. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 27.] + +A fine young man, John Connell, found to have smallpox badly. Pleasant, +very, in our crowded state. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 31.] + +5 P.M.--Poor Connell died. Got up from dinner, read funeral service, +and committed the body to the deep. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 5.] + +Half the ship in quarantine. Moved the assistant-surgeon from +youngsters’ mess to my own, Gran. Loch not thinking much of the +arrangement. Frank Sheridan, enjoying his distress at contagion, +_would_ shake hands with both. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 10.] + +Poor little Jos. Rowley fell from masthead, striking spare main topsail +yard as he fell overboard. Was motionless until picked up. Wonderful +recovery an hour afterwards. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 13.] + +Arrived at St. Jago. Filled up with water. Was here in 1824, and again +in 1827, when with others I caught fever. No improvement in the place +since first visit. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 18.] + +Preparations making to receive Neptune. Griffins talking of resistance. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 20.] + +Sunday. An unfortunate shark was rash enough to swallow a piece of pork +with a hook and chain attached. After affording much sport he died. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 22.] + +Crossing the “Line,” Neptune shaved 160 victims. Sent letters by the +_Dale Park_. Odd that _Dale Park_ should be close to Watergate. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 26.] + +Cases of smallpox recovering. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 18.] + +Our run to-day 235 miles. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 21.] + +Broke up quarantine establishment, three weeks having elapsed since the +recovery of the last case of smallpox. + +10 P.M.--Anchored in Simon’s Bay. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 22.] + +_Apollo_, _Belleisle_, and _Sapphire_ here with 98th Regiment--Colonel +Colin Campbell--and other troops for China. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 23.] + +Drove tandem to Cape Town with Gran. Loch. The Farmers Peck alive and +well. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 24.] + +No end of kindness and attention from old friends. Breakfasted with the +Lorentzs; called on the General and Judge Burton, with whom I stayed on +landing from the _Tweed_ in 1828. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 26.] + +Finding a vessel sailing for Mauritius, took leave of dear old Frank +Sheridan; put him on board and sailed. + +Rifle practice at albatrosses, which must be cruising full 1600 miles +from land. Cold, pleasant weather. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 27.] + +A pleasant gale, scudding under close-reefed main topsail. + +[Sidenote: April 1.] + +As many fools to-day as there were yesterday. + +[Sidenote: April 5.] + +My _Dido_ fast, but very wet, shipping seas fore and aft. Hatches +battened down. + +4 P.M.--Arrived within limits of East Indian station, having passed +66th degree of longitude. + +[Sidenote: April 6.] + +Shot a large gull, which measured 7 feet from tip to tip of wings; it +was not an albatross. + +[Sidenote: April 11.] + +Our run to-day 262 miles. + +[Sidenote: April 18.] + +Last evening my old friend Bulman fell through a small hatchway and +broke a rib; had him put into a cot in my cabin (he never left it +alive). + +[Sidenote: April 24.] + +Daylight made Christmas Island, having run 5500 miles without seeing +land. Towards evening several boobies settled about the rigging. One +vomited a large flying-fish, which Jim Hunt cooked and devoured. + +[Sidenote: April 26.] + +Java Head at last. More than three long months from Plymouth; and to +think that ours should be considered a quick passage! + +[Sidenote: April 27.] + +In the straits of Sunda. + +[Sidenote: April 29.] + +Last night, while running to the northward with a light three-knot +breeze, a most curious and unaccountable noise was heard, apparently +from outside; it lasted two hours. Carpenter examined, but it baffled +every attempt at discovery. + +[Sidenote: April 30.] + +My worthy old friend Bulman departed this life. In him I have lost a +real friend. I never knew a more honourable man in the strictest sense +of the word. + +[Sidenote: May 1.] + +Read funeral service and committed poor Bulman’s remains to the deep, +marines firing three volleys. + +[Sidenote: May 7.] + +Warlike symptoms on approaching Singapore. Roads full of ships. +Transports with soldiers in plenty. Anchored in the afternoon. It was +with pain I broke to Gran. Loch the death of his mother, which I had +read in the newspaper. + +[Sidenote: May 8.] + +Dined with Bonham. Nice quiet dinner in cool situation on the hill. + +[Sidenote: May 10.] + +_Serpent_ arrived, having sailed from England three weeks before us. +Prepared a tiffin for my old friend of _Magicienne_ days, Bonham. + +[Sidenote: May 11.] + +Refitted. Sky sail and masts up. Got under way. Met _Thalia_ coming, +she having sailed five weeks before us. + +[Sidenote: May 12.] + +Sailing up the Chinese Sea. Poor Chinese! They require a little conceit +taken out of them, and, as it must be, I have no objection to lend a +hand. + +The snakes in these seas are black, and porpoises white or +flesh-colour; everything different from other parts of the world. + +[Sidenote: May 14.] + +Boarded a barque from Hong Kong. Expedition to proceed north on arrival +of troops, now not far from us. + +[Sidenote: May 30.] + +Arrived at Hong Kong. Visited senior officer, Sir Thomas Herbert. + +[Illustration: _Hong Kong._] + +[Sidenote: May 31.] + +Visited the Plenipotentiary, Sir Henry Pottinger, General Sir Hugh +Gough, and the Resident. _Thalia_ and _Harlequin_ arrived. + +[Sidenote: June 1.] + +Rose early and walked over a great part of the island with Major Cain, +Head Magistrate; sharp work for first walk--about fifteen miles. + +[Sidenote: June 2.] + +_Belleisle_, with General Lord Saltoun and 98th Regiment arrived; was +glad to meet my friends with whom I had been so much at the Cape. Dined +with Brigadier Burville on board _Moira_. + +Among those whose acquaintance I made and served with afterwards on the +staff of the Plenipotentiary was Harry Parkes. Included in the staff +was a clever German missionary, by name Gütslarfe. He was obliging to +every one. Sailors are prone to give nicknames, and our friend rejoiced +in that of “Happy Bowels.” + +[Sidenote: June 3.] + +Took Rice and Armytage with me in Company’s steamer _Hooghly_ to Macao. +Found there nephew Henry Coke, with Mr. Kerr, merchant, at whose house +I dined and slept. Rode after dinner across the barrier. + +[Sidenote: June 4.] + +Returned to Hong Kong. My old friend and shipmate, Grey Skipwith, was +now on board the _Cornwallis_, and from him I received a note, advising +me to lose no time in joining the flag. + +I had to take charge of convoy transports, with the _Serpent_ for +whipper-in. There was a nice breeze through the Formosa Channel. + +[Sidenote: June 7.] + +To keep company with my fleet I had to lower topsails on to the cap. + +[Sidenote: June 9.] + +Copy of a proclamation issued by Mandarin Linn: + +“Reward for the taking alive a commanding officer and the chief +commander of a great ship of war is $5000--also for the murder of a +Barbarian officer; one-third of the above for arresting him.” + +[Sidenote: June 12.] + +Expecting to make the flag of the Commander-in-Chief, I came up with a +convoy at anchor, under Frederick Grey in _Endymion_, who caused me to +anchor and join company; so spoilt my little game of joining flag in +time for Chusan. + +[Sidenote: June 14.] + +Arrived with both convoys off Chusan. _Endymion_ having no orders to +proceed, anchored outside. Had the painful satisfaction of hearing +heavy cannonading in which I could take no part. + +[Illustration: Dido _at Chusan_.] + +6 P.M.--Saluted flag, but found I was just in time to be too late to +share in the capture of Woosung. + +In future movements the General paid me the compliment of preferring my +six-oared gig to one of the transport boats. + +[Sidenote: Woosung, June, 17.] + +Landed a party to assist in destruction of forts and Government +buildings. Dined with Admiral Sir William Parker. + +[Sidenote: June 18.] + +Waterloo Day. General Sir Hugh Gough landed in my gig, when I witnessed +the horrors of war. Mutilated carcases of men and horses by hundreds. + +Houses burning, villages deserted, etc. Struck by the prevalent feeling +so strong for destruction. + +Sir Hugh Gough, attended by a small staff and orderlies of his +favourite regiment, the 18th Royal Irish--I mounted on his +pony--directed an orderly to ascertain whether a Chinaman separated +from others was dead or alive. The corporal turned the body over with +his bayonet in it, answering, “Did, your Honour,” which he certainly +was _then_. + +[Sidenote: June 19.] + +Flag hoisted on board _Medusa_. Ordered by Admiral to accompany him in +the gig, and to land forces to attack forts at Shanghai, which were +easily carried. Brass guns embarked, iron ones spiked, trunnions +knocked off. Town taken possession of. All this on the Sabbath! + +[Sidenote: June 20.] + +Further expedition up the river with steamers. No opposition for sixty +miles. Country thickly populated, and natives astonished rather. + +[Sidenote: June 23.] + +Troops at Woosung were re-embarked. Preparing for further advance up +the Yang-tse-Kiang. + + + + +CHAPTER XXV + +_DIDO_--CHINA + + +[Sidenote: 1842. July 6.] + +The force collected at Woosung to proceed up the Yang-tse-Kiang +consisted of seventy-three sail, men-of-war and transport, three +of them being line-of-battle ships. The whole, anchored in single +line--with room to swing, required space. It was a beautiful sight. On +a signal from Flag for fleet to weigh, in a few minutes you would see +a white cloud, three miles in extent, moving up the river. While the +seamen went aloft to loose sails, troops manned sheets and halyards. +Wind heading, the reverse took place, and a forest of masts succeeded +the white cloud. + +The half-dozen small steamers were constantly on the move surveying. +The smaller craft were detached in various directions to collect cattle +and other food for the use of the fleet. + +[Sidenote: July 12.] + +Weighed with my division at 4 A.M. with a fair wind, the whole fleet +making considerable progress. The land getting hilly, and assuming a +much more interesting appearance. + +Started in gig for the flagship. Slashing tide: missed _Cornwallis_, +and got on board _Belleisle_. Took every opportunity of seeing my old +friends of 98th, with its new Colonel, Colin Campbell. Regiments on +the Indian station were allowed a double set of officers, so I had many +fresh friends to make. Surveying steamers sent ahead reported being +fired upon from Golden Island. + +It would take a thick volume to describe all the incidents that +occurred during the progress of the force up the river. It was slow, +and communication was kept up by signals and boats. The fleet brought +up off Chiang Kiang-Fu on the 19th, and disembarkation commenced. + +Gran. Loch managed to ford the ditch, some 50 feet wide, close to the +West Gate, which was afterwards blown in by bags of powder attached. + +The ends of works form a hexagon shape. + +Inside, where John Chinaman had felt himself so secure with his walls +and ditch, I saw them the next morning in small heaps, dead, with +blackened faces, and cards in their hands. I could not make out whether +the game was whist or baccarat. + +On going through the town, there were piles of dead Chinese soldiers +at the corners of the streets. While contemplating one of these heaps, +a body sprang up and performed a somersault: it was a Chinese soldier +whose fuse had reached his magazine. It takes three of them to serve +a musket. One carries a crutch, another loads, a third takes aim and +fires. + +The place was full of food, which no one knew better where to find than +the thieves. When boats landed from men-of-war to pick up wounded, the +Chinamen were made to deposit their loads of loot in the boats. + +Nanking was next to be reached, and _Dido_ was sent in advance to +prevent communication with the north side of the river. Our ships were +now swarming with rats, and crews getting unhealthy. + +In spite of the fall of the great city of Chiang Kiang-Fu, the chiefs +were determined not to stop until they had invested Nanking. + +[Sidenote: July 27.] + +Started with Hall in _Nemesis_ on a foraging expedition. The best +plan was to catch a fat Chinaman, generally the chief of a village. +The people always pleaded poverty as an excuse. Having dropped on to +a chief such as I have described, I gave him until 4 P.M. to supply +twenty-five bullocks or have his tail cut off, which had the desired +effect. + +_Dido’s_ boats were now away at night searching junks lying up creeks, +to see they did not contain soldiers. Coming across a lot which +appeared likely to be used for the conveyance of troops and stores, +tried to examine one. Seeing a rope over the side, I climbed up near +to the entrance-port, when the rope was let go from inside, and I fell +across the gunwale of my boat. + +I was placed at the bottom, suffering great pain, and taken back to +the _Dido_, three miles off. When alongside, believing my back to be +broken, requested to be allowed to die where I was. A cot, however, was +lowered, into which I was lifted carefully, and so hoisted on board. +The gunroom skylight was removed and the cot laid on the mess-table. + +The surgeons, Donoghoe and Simpson, on close examination, found nothing +but one small spot on a joint of the backbone, and under the influence +of an opiate I was conveyed to my cabin. + +[Sidenote: July 29.] + +Mandarins came from Nanking with flags of truce and “chops” for Admiral +and Plenipotentiary. Our chiefs had, however, decided not to hold their +hands until they had a footing in Nanking. + +[Sidenote: July 30.] + +Ordered to proceed, the Admiral placing the smaller vessels under my +command; among them my old friend _Childers_--but, oh! so altered. + +[Sidenote: August 3.] + +Fleet coming up. Admiral was towed into a berth off Nanking. +_Cornwallis_ the first ship that had reached that famous city. + +[Sidenote: August 4.] + +Fleet closing up. Visited Plenipotentiary, also General Sir Hugh Gough; +and _Belleisle_, with Colonel Colin Campbell and 98th Regiment. + +[Sidenote: August 5.] + +Fleet still closing. _Dido_ again ordered ahead to stop communication +from north side. Having a heavy sick-list, took possession of two roomy +junks, in one of which I embarked clothes, mess-traps, etc. + +[Sidenote: August 8.] + +Off Nanking. Found artificers from ships cutting down huge trees to +get a clearer view of the walls of the city. Looting was strictly +forbidden. On board _Cornwallis_ was Sir Hugh Gough, when Trowbridge, +of the _Clio_, came alongside. + +The General, observing boxes in the boat, asked: “Captain Trowbridge, +is that loot?” Trowbridge replied he thought it was, as he had just +bought it from a soldier! Bits of chaff were not taken notice of. Dined +with Admiral. + +[Sidenote: August 9.] + +Trowbridge, Loch, and Skipwith dined with me on board junk. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 11.] + +Landed with Admiral at daylight to search the most practicable place +for storming with boats. There will be some bloody noses on Saturday. + +In spite of looting being forbidden, we met the boat’s crew of a +transport carrying heavy cases. The Admiral wore a costume suitable to +the climate--a white jacket and straw hat. On Sir William asking, “What +have you got there?” the reply was, “Sugar. And, if you look sharp,” +said the gentleman in charge, “you may get some too; there _is_ some +brown left.” In reply he got, “You will take those cases on board the +_Cornwallis_, and say the Admiral sent you.” They obeyed, the Admiral’s +coxswain attending. + +Next day I landed early with Sir Hugh Gough, the Admiral, and +Plenipotentiary, to survey walls in another direction. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 13.] + +No fight Pidgin yet. Great appearance of peace being concluded. +Kellett, of surveying vessel _Starling_, to breakfast. Shifted junk +higher up the river; James Fitzjames and Skipwith to dinner. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 14.] + +Every appearance of peace being made. Proper day to make it on--quite a +day of rest. _Tête-à-tête_ dinner with Armytage. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 15.] + +Too much rain. Visited Admiral, peacefully inclined. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 16.] + +Up early and looted some plank from villages up the river, about two +miles in extent, built entirely on rafts, which were probably built for +the conveyance of soldiers. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 17] + +Bullock junk up from _Dido_. Bad accounts of the sick. Young Robinson +dead. Forty-eight on sick-list. Poor fellows! + +Captain Bouchier, Grey, and self examined and passed Hickley; smart +young fellow. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 19.] + +Dined with Admiral, who kindly invited me to remain to meet the +Mandarins who were to come the following day. Sent for my cot. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 20.] + +A large assemblage of chiefs. Contrast between Mandarins and our +chiefs. Was thanked by General and Admiral for the effectual way in +which, some miles ahead of the fleet, reinforcements for Nanking +garrison had been prevented crossing the river from the north side. + +[Sidenote: Yang-tse-Kiang.] + +While in the river was laid up for some days with a sharp attack of +malarial fever. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 29.] + +Peace proclaimed. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 31.] + +Ratification of the treaty approved by the Emperor himself. Glad of the +chance of getting out of this river; the water is low and beginning to +smell. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 3.] + +Lieutenant Horton from _Endymion_ joined, having exchanged with Eden. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 6.] + +Sent invalids for survey, to fleet in junk. In a heavy squall hospital +junk parted cables, and is now well in the rushes. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 7.] + +No return of fever. _Medusa_, steamer, coming down with invalids to go +home by _Calliope_. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 8.] + +Sick-list heavy; but few men fit for duty. Like new First Lieutenant +much. _Harlequin_ coming up. My poor steward very ill; ditto cook. +Rice in a cot in my cabin; much better to-day though. Went on board +_Cornwallis_; put up with Admiral. Rain all day. Did plenty of ship’s +business. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 12.] + +Up early, and went to breakfast with my old friend and chum, Watson. +_Dido_ has eighty on sick-list, but improving. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 14.] + +_Childers_ arrived to relieve us. Received on board invalids for +_Calliope_. Got under way, and anchored near _Endymion_. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 15.] + +In working down with a fresh breeze on port tack, an eddy tide caught +my _Dido_ on the weather bow, stronger than the effect of the lee helm, +and the figure-head was well in a pâdi-field before the backed sails +could have effect. + +What was to be done? We had ninety-seven on the sick-list. Made signal +to _Endymion_, working down near the opposite shore. Of course, she was +“charged with despatches.” I was not sorry at the reply. When I get +into a scrape I like to get out of it without help. It reminds me of +the old couplet: + + When Dido found Æneas did not come, + She wept in silence, and was Dido-dum. + +We had nothing else to do after sails were furled but to lay out stream +and kedge anchors, seize two of the largest junks, chuck what they +might have overboard, and commence lightening. With my sickly crew it +was heavy work. + +The weather was fine, but it was not until the following afternoon, and +the last gun out, that the cables laid out began to slacken. + +The same evening we were dropping quietly down with the current, +looking beautiful as ever, and I much pleased with my new First +Lieutenant. + +[Sidenote: Woosung, Sept. 24.] + +Our stick in pâdi-fields did not improve my health nor the Master’s +nerves. We drifted quietly down in company with _Belleisle_ into +Woosung Roads. Tides ran strong and irregular; influenced by winds and +heavy rains. + +98th Regiment still sickly. We found _North Star_, 28, with her stout +and good-tempered captain, Sir Everard Home. I was more pleased still +to find my young friend, Henry Seymour, in command of one of Symonds’ +beautiful brigs, the _Wanderer_, 16. + +We had not met since he left me in the _Childers_, Mediterranean. His +larder better furnished, and, far from well myself, I was glad to have +a quiet and early dinner with him. A storm brewing, got away early, and +none too soon. Home dined with the hospitable 98th. + +It was blowing and raining, with a slashing ebb-tide, when at 9 P.M. +there were loud calls ahead for a rope. Home had missed his _North +Star_, and would have drifted past us to, nobody knows where. + +But my “Didos” were equal to the occasion. _North Star’s_ long painter +was secured to us, but the bowman could not haul the boat up to the +gangway. + +When Home rushed forward to assist, his extra weight caused the boat +to dip and capsize. Our men were on the alert; no lives were lost, but +the Captain would not allow himself to be hauled on board until he was +assured that every man of his crew was safe. + +We got him down to my cabin, and rigged him out in seaman’s blue +flannel frock and trousers, and a stiffish glass of grog before he laid +himself on a sofa to rest. He begged to be called at slack-water, that +he might return on board his own ship. + +I gave directions accordingly. + +Mr. D’Aeth, of an old Kentish family, was officer of the watch, and at +midnight came down to tell Sir Everard it was slack-water, but raining +hard. + +It was some time before the gallant captain could be awoke, and longer +still before he could understand where he was. I was awake, laughing at +the conversation. + +At last Sir Everard called out, “Where am I? Who are you? What’s your +name?” + +He got an answer: + +“My name is D’Aeth. It is twelve o’clock--slack-water. You are on board +_Dido_, in the Captain’s cabin.” + +Home then roared out: + +“Captain Keppel, they are playing tricks. A man comes dripping, as if +from the sea, with a lanthorn in his hand, saying his name is Death.” + +It was some minutes before I could persuade my friend that it was +blowing and pouring with rain, and that he had better go to sleep +again. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVI + +_DIDO_--CHINA + + +[Sidenote: 1842. Sept. 25.] + +Read Lieutenant Horton’s commission to ship’s company. Harangued and +forgave all culprits. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 26.] + +Surveyed invalids on board _North Star_. Some bad cases, poor fellows! + +[Sidenote: Sept. 27.] + +Got under weigh; _Belleisle_ first. Fine breeze. Came to; invited Sir +E. Home, Henry Seymour, Freemantle, Horton, and Rice to dine. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 28.] + +Weighed at six, and passed _Belleisle_ hard and fast on the bar, at the +top, nearly, of high-water. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 29.] + +Arrived at Chapoo. Found Nias with his _Herald_. Not being well, he +came on board, and did me no good. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 6.] + +_Pelican_ arrived, bringing orders for _Dido_ to go to Chusan. Troops +to evacuate citadel. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 8.] + +Walked round the fortifications and over the town of Shanghai; natives +civil. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 10.] + +Chinamen mustering courage on the strength of peace. Hundreds of large +picturesque junks coming down the river. Chinese soldiers smart in +taking possession of citadel as our troops marched out. + +[Sidenote: Chusan, Oct. 12.] + +Weighed at daylight, reaching Chusan in four hours. Walk on shore with +Rundle Burges Watson, of _Modeste_, 18. Watson was a clever artist; +he came on board to breakfast, and left afterwards to take a sketch +of my _Dido_. We had been at the Naval College together. Having been +in the early part of the war, he had succeeded Captain Harry Eyres in +command of the _Modeste_. + +Before storming one of the forts, Watson tried the experiment of +putting his uniform cap on the point of his sword and thrusting it +through the embrasure, at which the Chinese muskets exploded and he +took possession. I have his drawing of the _Dido_ now.[5] + +[5] Page 267. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 12.] + +Dined with Frederick Grey. Had an attack of fever and ague. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 16.] + +Heard last evening of the death of my brother-in-law, Lord Leicester, +fifty-five years my senior. Admiral arrived, and _Columbine_, 16, +another of Symonds’ handsome brigs. Nias sick and growling as usual. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 18.] + +Plenipo arrived. Visited him. Rode into the city. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 25.] + +To breakfast with Frederick Grey. He, Skipwith, Henry Seymour, Hall, +and Molesworth, dined with me. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 27.] + +Improved weather. Sick-list reduced to twenty-five. Nice little dinner +with Bouchier; like him. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 28.] + +Dined with Admiral Sir William Parker. Our Master, Aylen, appointed to +_Endymion_. He sorry to leave, and we to lose him. + +Heard that Rear-Admiral Sir Thomas Cochrane had been at Hong Kong since +June 19. Took an early trip with Plenipotentiary (Sir Henry Pottinger) +and young Harry Parkes, on board _Queen_ steamer, breaking the monotony +of daily routine. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 31.] + +With Grey and Hope, _Phlegethon_ in company, across shoal; the shortest +way to the sacred island of Potoo. Some pretty sites for joss-houses +and Chinese graves. Returned to Plenipo’s steamer _Queen_ for +dinner--large party. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 1.] + +Returned to _Dido_ in _Phlegethon_. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 2.] + +_Herald_ sailed for England. Heavy job getting captured guns on board +_Forth_ transport. Brass guns good as money. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 3.] + +Early ride with Admiral and two Generals, with staff, etc., over a +beautiful part of Potoo Island. Good breakfast in a joss-house. Dined +with Bouchier. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 4.] + +Dined with the Admiral, who talked of sending me Senior Officer to the +Straits. Like the idea much. Several fatal cases of cholera on shore +and afloat. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 5.] + +Our sick-list under twenty. Walk in city with Grey Skipwith; had him +and other old “Childers” to dine--Rice, Coaker, and Comber. + +[Sidenote: Ning Po, Nov. 8.] + +On board _Phlegethon_ steamer to join Admiral and party to Ning Po. +_Blonde_ sailed for England. Got to Ning Po in five hours--one of +the largest and finest towns I have seen in China. Dined on board +steamer, slept in a joss-house. The party consisted of Fred. Grey, Sir +Hugh Gough, and some military officers from Chusan. The shops were +exceedingly pretty. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 10.] + +Much pleased with Ning Po and my trip. Saw more of China and the +Chinese than in any other place. Took an early ride with the Admiral, +C. Hope, F. Grey, Henry Seymour, and Skipwith. Bringing up the rear of +the party, I saw many nasty-looking snakes rise suddenly from under our +horses’ feet and dash into the bushes on either side. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 15.] + +Preparing to convoy transports. Grand dinner with the Admiral, +Generals, and Plenipotentiary. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 17.] + +Prior to our departure with transport, _Dido_ had an early visit from +Admiral, who was much pleased with the ship, as I think he ought to +have been. + +[Sidenote: Hong Kong, Nov. 23.] + +9.30 A.M.--Came to in Hong Kong. Saluted flag of Rear-Admiral Sir +Thomas Cochrane, flag flying on board _Agincourt_. Found _Endymion_ +and transports. Hong Kong now a British possession. Counted upwards of +seventy ships in the anchorage. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 26.] + +Dinner with Lord Saltoun--best fellow, if not the best soldier, in the +expedition; good dinner. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 28.] + +Invited Grey to dine with me, but did so with him instead on board +_Endymion_; he had been inspected a good deal by Sir Thomas Cochrane +without seeming to enjoy it. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 29.] + +I dined with the Rear-Admiral and four Generals--dinner good--footmen +in plush breeches. Grey and I got leave to go to Macao. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 1.] + +Dundas taking care of Grey; I to my old quarters with Dent. Pleasant +to be in a comfortable English-furnished house after six months in the +Yang-tse-Kiang. Noticed a live Bird of Paradise in a cage eating large +grasshoppers, breaking off their long prickly legs first. + +[Sidenote: Macao, Dec. 2.] + +Visited the tomb of my late much-respected Chief, Lord John Churchill, +who died here June 3, 1840, while in command of _Druid_, during the +early part of the war with China. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 4.] + +After breakfast at Dent’s, Grey in a hurry returned to Hong Kong, +arriving there by sunset. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 5.] + +Visited Rear-Admiral; reported _Dido_ ready for sea. Dined again on +board _Belleisle_ with old 98th friends. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 6.] + +Sir Thomas Cochrane inspected _Dido_; manned yards, mustered. He +inspected every part of her--at quarters, firing at a mark, doing good +practice; he ordered us under way, making all sail, on and off the +wind, etc. Came to, re-manned yards, inspection over. Dined with Sir +Thomas; great spread. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 7.] + +Weighed at daylight, with several 98th good fellows on board; ran over +to Macao. Saluted Governor with 17 guns. Good dinner at Dent’s. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 8.] + +Left my _Dido_ for her to return to Hong Kong with officers of 98th. In +_Proserpine_ steamer with Sir Hugh Gough for Canton. Heard of riots and +burning of factories; orders for _Dido_ to come up; arrived off Canton +late at night. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 9.] + +Landed early; found British factories burned down; dead Lascars lying +about; encampment of Chinese soldiers round remaining residences; +populace in a state of excitement. Put up at Mr. Beale’s; loaded +firearms and prepared for defence. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 10.] + +Continued excitement. Visited Chinese encampment; pretty and curious. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 11.] + +Attended American Presbyterian Divine service, performed by Dr. Parker. +He prayed; we listened. Service not like ours. Obliged to detain +steamer by way of protection. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 12.] + +Returned to Hong Kong. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 20.] + +Weighed with _Endymion_ in charge of convoy of transports. _Wolverine_ +and East India Company’s steamer _Queen_ in company. _Endymion_ leading +convoy. We remained to see the last two transports out, which took us +until after sunset. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 24.] + +When outside saw nothing of _Endymion_ or fleet. Nice breeze. My +transports, fast sailers, took inner and shorter passage. _Dido_ under +three topsails and jib. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 26.] + +Think we are ahead of the fleet. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 30.] + +At 4 A.M., with my part of convoys, came to in Singapore Roads. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 31.] + +_Endymion_ arrived with convoy, not well pleased at finding _Dido_ in +first. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVII + +_DIDO_--STRAITS OF MALACCA + + +[Sidenote: 1843. Jan. 5.] + +Continued with _Endymion_ the convoy of transports through the Straits. +That strange kind of vibration through the ship which we experienced +last year, not far from this, was felt again to-day, caused, we think, +by some powerful fish attaching itself. Our convoy consisted of +nineteen sail. + +_Endymion_ proceeded to Penang, leaving me in charge. On Grey +reappearing I signalled convoy to proceed with _Endymion_. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 14.] + +The following day we arrived at Penang, and were saluted by the +Company’s fort. Returned the same. Commenced duties as Senior Officer +of the Straits Settlements. Glad to be where I had previously so +enjoyed myself. Was invited to take up my quarters at Government +House with the Resident, Mr. Samuel Garling, who invited the heads of +departments to meet me at dinner. + +I had on board a small brass band of six performers, who were rapidly +improving. They could play string or other instruments, which meant +dancing. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 15.] + +Went on board to muster and read Church service. How pleasant for a +while the peace and quiet of a room on shore to oneself! From the +windows I see my _Dido_, sitting like a duck on the water, looking +beautiful. + +My kind host proposed a visit to Province Wellesley. He had at his +disposal two of the Company’s small steamers, _Diana_ and _Auckland_, +with less draught of water than _Dido_, which had to anchor further +off-shore. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 16.] + +Our object was to visit an enterprising Frenchman, who had penetrated +miles into a dense jungle and opened up a sugar plantation. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 17.] + +We landed from the _Diana_ at the mouth of a small creek, up which +we had to paddle some eight miles. On landing an elephant awaited +us, fitted with a double howdah; there were no end of coolies. We +were received by Monsieur et Madame Donnadieu. Although I had been at +Calcutta, this was my first mount on an elephant. + +From the landing-place, with the exception of the twelve-foot-wide +road, was a jungle, where the relations of the Bengal tiger might be +concealed within a foot of where we were. We found our host’s bungalow +prettily situated on rising ground, cleared all round for a quarter +of a mile of the dense jungle, and protected by a substantial iron +fence. The inside of the building was a perfect bijou; you could +fancy yourself within hail of Paris. Our dinner, too, was perfection, +including a Malay curry. We were charmed with our hostess. I regretted +my deficiency in French, although Madame Donnadieu tried to make me +believe she understood what I said, and we were getting on, when a +guest asked her to sing. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 18.] + +Following morning, on being consulted, I voted for a mount on the +elephant, whose stable was the open jungle, a heavy log chained to one +of his forefeet. + +A call brought him home. The howdah was filled--sorry to say without +our fair hostess, who had domestic arrangements to supervise. It was +not until deep in the jungle that I could form an idea of the sagacity +of our mount. He was partly guided by the mahout, but when we came to +a thick part of the jungle, where branches could interfere with the +howdah, the elephant would stop and break off everything that could +interfere with his passengers. + +We had to cross deep nullahs; if there was the trunk of a tree in the +way, he would feel with the upper side of his trunk, and so ascertain +what it would bear, and act accordingly. I observed, too, when we +neared a tuft of long grass, he would, without stopping, draw it up +with his trunk and hold on until within reach of the stump of a tree, +then knock the earth off the roots, and so enjoy his meal without +slacking his pace. + +We were several times close to wild beasts that startled us with their +discordant roars, but we could not see them, so did not discharge our +guns. The mahout pronounced them rhinoceros and tigers. Parrots and +monkeys chattered through the upper branches of the trees. Pea-fowl +preferred running. We took our tiffin with us. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 25.] + +After a rest we took leave of our kind hosts. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 26.] + +Weighed from Province Wellesley, and in the evening came to between +Nicobar Islands. The natives were much frightened. A chief, however, +came off in the early morning and got drunk, which encouraged his +people, who commenced to trade in birds’ nests, tortoiseshell, cocoa- +and betel-nuts. + +Having seen enough, we sailed for next island, Nancowry, which has a +harbour and some pigeons, affording sport. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 27.] + +My cabin carpenter, Wilson, who was landed to cut some large hollow +bamboo, fancied he saw a tiger--extraordinary stretch of imagination. +He was a good little man, but I got no bamboo! + +[Sidenote: Feb. 3.] + +Arrived at Penang. Landed at Captain’s house just after midnight. Took +Tottenham under my care, he looking invalidy. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 6.] + +Up at daylight with Granville and Tottenham to the hill. Visited Mrs. +Lewis. Delightful change of scenery and climate. Continued my taste +for ornithology and conchology. Small birds, when we were quiet, were +knocked over by pellets from a blow-pipe. + +To dinner with officers of 24th Madras Native Infantry. Received with +usual kindness of the Far East. Had to make a small speech. Home early. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 8.] + +Another visit to the hill to Sir William Norris. At daylight Tottenham, +Partridge, Maidman, and I went up. A long scramble through jungle. Good +“Penang Lawyers” scarce. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 9.] + +Knocked down by Lady Norris’s pony at Waterfall, and nearly suspended +over the perpendicular edge of the hill. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 24.] + +Passed the night on the top of a tree to watch for tiger and deer. Fell +asleep and saw nothing! No mosquitoes, though! Tried the jungle on +opposite side of the river, convicts beating; drew it blank. Started +for Penang. All night in pinnace. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 26.] + +Weighed. + +[Sidenote: Singapore, Mar. 3.] + +Sunset, anchored in Singapore Roads. + +[Illustration: _Map of Malacca Straits and Singapore._] + +Sir Stamford Raffles landed here on January 29, 1819. Near the present +esplanade he hoisted the Union Jack next day, and concluded a +preliminary arrangement with the Sultan of Johore and the Tumongong of +Singapore; and on February 5, 1819, a definite treaty was signed by +Raffles and the two chiefs named, by which, in return for an annual +payment of 5000 dollars to the former, and 3000 dollars to the latter, +those princes ceded the settlement of Singapore to the English, and +pledged themselves to grant “no treaty” or settlement to any other +power, European or American. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 5.] + +On board to muster. Read prayers. _Vixen_ arrived, not two months from +England. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 6.] + +I had now been some days making myself acquainted with the persons +chiefly concerned in this most interesting colony. The greatest +admitted drawback was the want of protection to trade from piracy. I +felt there was a grand field open, if I could only feel sure that I +should be allowed to remain long enough. There was a large community of +interested merchants, as well as Government officials, but we were not +without powerful natives in our midst, whose kindly feeling for piracy +was well known. + +Dined with the military detachment. Hospitable, kind, and good fellows. + +Saw a splendid comet with a very long tail, looking too near to be +pleasant. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 7.] + +A most atrocious case of piracy committed within sight of the anchorage +by two Malay boats on a Cochin China junk. + +Preparing boats for a cruise. Splendid comet again; Chinamen frightened. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 8.] + +Got under way. Left my steward, Ashford, to take care of sick. Joined +gunroom mess. Comet again visible until nine; tail very luminous, +extending 30 degrees. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 11.] + +1 P.M.--Came to off Pulo Sabu. Took possession of fifteen piratical +boats, but was unable to catch any of the crew on account of the +density of the jungle. + +8 P.M.--boats returned. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 13.] + +Landed an armed party to assist boats’ crews in finding remainder of +the pirates, the two captured having bolted into the jungle at Pulo +Tinghi. No find, though. Weighed in the evening and stood to the +southward under easy sail. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 14.] + +Anchored at Singapore. In the absence, and by permission, of +Bonham--now Governor of the Straits Settlements--took possession of the +Hill, a charming residence with flagstaff and native guard established. +I noticed that the signalmen--smart fellows from Bengal--were branded +on the forehead with the interesting little word “Murder,” also with +a Hindustanee word of same meaning. As senior naval officer, had +much more to do than picnics and tiger-hunting. Had, too, the use of +Bonham’s stables, with a good deal of fat to take down. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 15.] + +Exchanged visits with heads of departments; one of the most important +was the Resident Councillor, Mr. Thomas Church. But no visits were +considered valid until you had exchanged dinners. An attorney of note +was Mr. William Napier; he had a brother, the Rector of Holkham, which +brought us together. A charming old salt was Captain William Scott. +The mercantile community was much as I had met all over India--most +hospitable and agreeable. Shaw, Whitehead, and Co. were the Navy +agents. Soon found that my most important duty was the suppression +of piracy. Scarcely a day passed without the landing of wounded for +hospital treatment. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 17.] + +Dined with Napier, where I met for the first time Mr., afterwards +Rajah, Brooke. I was initiated into the mysteries, depths, and horrors +of pirates in the ways of the Malay Peninsula, by these two men who had +studied the question. + +[Illustration: _Rajah Brooke._] + +[Sidenote: Mar. 18.] + +A royal tiger that had devoured several convicts had been viewed on the +outskirts of the town. I joined expedition in search, as did many older +and experienced men, but without success. + +Recorder Sir William Norris arrived from Penang. Heard of death of the +famous China General, “Elepo.” “S’pose he catchee too muchee shame +face.” + +[Sidenote: Mar. 20.] + +Another Chinaman killed by tiger close to the spot we had been over +half an hour previously. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 23.] + +Rumours of another China war, which rather upsets proposed joint +arrangement with Rajah Brooke of an attack on pirates in their +strongholds in the interior of Borneo. + +Sale of Bonham’s effects on the Mount, which looks like a better +appointment. Got two old paintings. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 24.] + +Preparing boats for a regatta got up by W. H. Read, an enterprising +young merchant (who subsequently left his mark in Singapore). Entered +ship’s boats, pinnace winning 45 dollars under name of _Victoria_. +Committee on board _Dido_. I was voted umpire. Band increased and +improved. Regatta afforded great amusement. Tiffin on board _Diana_ +steamer. “Didos” invited. Dined with Napier. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 27.] + +Up early for another unsuccessful attempt to shoot tiger; heard the +brute unpleasantly near, without seeing him. + +Visited Elliot at the Observatory, also Balastier, United States +Consul, and wife; she has a nice collection of shells; made some +exchanges. + +[Sidenote: April 2.] + +Fresh acts of piracy and murder. Sent _Diana_, steamer, _Diamond_, +gunboat, and _Dido’s_ pinnace to cruise. + +[Sidenote: April 3.] + +[Sidenote: April 5.] + +Up early to wild-hog party at Alligator Island: the civil and military +residents giving an excellent picnic to the “Didos,” commencing by a +breakfast on board the steamer _Victoria_, while sportsmen proceeded to +Alligator Island, noted for its wild-boar. We had convicts as beaters. +Brooke and Read were of the cheery party, which lasted until the +following morning. I bagged two boars. + +[Sidenote: April 6.] + +It was now time to arrange for more serious business: that of the +suppression of piracy, which had long been the curse of all legitimate +trade and was secretly encouraged by wealthy natives in our midst. + +After discussion with Brooke, we agreed the only way to strike at the +root of the evil would be to destroy the piratical strongholds in the +interior of Borneo, and not to wait until the fleets of light draught +of water were formed. Some of the war prahus were propelled by as many +as 200 paddles, in addition to light lateen sails. Their hulls were +composed of timbers fastened together by _rôtans_, and the whole +caulked with the fibre of the cocoanut. The pirates could, if pressed, +run into shoal water, cut their boats adrift, and disappear in the, to +us, impregnable jungle. + +[Sidenote: April 13.] + +_Britomart_, brig, 10, Commander Owen Stanley, arrived, with directions +to sell his surveying vessel. I was too glad to have my friend of many +years to stay with me at Government House, and so avail myself of his +fertile brains. + +Rajah Brooke, “Billy” Napier, Montgomery, and Stevenson to dine. + +_Anonymous_ clipper from Bombay, bringing owner’s letters only. Beast! + +[Sidenote: April 15.] + +Took Major Sinclair to show him the inside of my _Dido_. + +[Sidenote: April 17.] + +Cricket-match between Singaporeans and “Didos.” Lieutenant Stephen +Colby, of 98th, to dine, he having sold out. + +[Sidenote: April 20.] + +Band on shore of an evening, they having improved and much in demand. + +[Sidenote: April 24.] + +_Apollo_, with Grey Skipwith on board, also _Belleisle_, arrived with +letters from China. + +[Sidenote: April 26.] + +Had a cheery child’s party on the hill, Mrs. Whitehead kindly managing +for me. + +A kind letter from my father. + +[Sidenote: April 27.] + +Grey Skipwith staying with me again, but only for a short time, as +_Apollo_ sailed for home. + +_Belleisle_ on shore, as usual; luckily on a rising tide. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVIII + +_DIDO_--BORNEO + + +[Sidenote: 1843. May 1.] + +Embarked Rajah Brooke. Napier and W. H. Read on board to see him off. +My _Dido_ now well manned. The crew require exercise, and will get it! + +Good drill at general quarters. + +[Sidenote: May 3.] + +Hoisted pinnace out, which had been coppered at the expense of my +zealous First. + +[Sidenote: May 4.] + +Came to under Camel Island. To think that for thousands of miles these +seas should be infested by pirates! The sea as smooth as Spithead, with +anchorages to be found in from 4 to 10 fathoms, the kedge affording +sufficient holding. + +Passed through the Tambilans, a beautiful group of about 150 small +islands, thinly inhabited. They are so close together that after +passing the first two or three we were to all appearance land-locked in +a capacious harbour. + +[Illustration: _Map--Eastern Archipelago; Map of Coast--Borneo._] + +[Sidenote: May 5.] + +Anchored off the Dutch end of the Island of Borneo, in the hope of +surprising free-traders. + +[Sidenote: May 6.] + +The following morning we anchored off the mouth of the Sambas, and sent +boats away to examine the creeks, islands, and rivers for traces of +pirates, which were discovered by the remains of their cooking-fires, +although no clue found as to where they had gone. + +[Sidenote: May 8.] + +Sent the pinnace and two cutters, with Partridge, D’Aeth, and +Jenkins, and a week’s provisions, in charge of Lieutenant Wilmot +Horton. The advice of Rajah Brooke, who not only knew the appearance of +vessels used by pirates, but spoke the Malay language, was thankfully +accepted. + +They were directed to proceed to the Island of Murrundum, and, after +visiting the South Natunas, to rejoin _Dido_ at Sarawak. In the +meantime _Dido_ proceeded along the coast, anchoring when convenient, +and finding regular soundings from 4 to 10 fathoms. + +[Sidenote: May 9.] + +On the morning of the 9th, on rounding Tanjong Datu, we opened suddenly +on a suspicious-looking prahu, which, on making us out, ran for a deep +bay, formed by Cape Datu and the next point to the eastward. + +Standing a little further on, we saw her consort in the offing, +likewise standing in-shore, and a third entered at the bottom of the +bay. + +From descriptions we had received, they were Illanuns, of whose daring +adventures much had been written. They inhabit a cluster of islands on +the north-east coast of Borneo, and go out in large fleets, chiefly to +intercept traders bound to Singapore or the Straits. Their victims are +bound for months, and crowded in the bottom of the prahus, where they +suffer miseries worse than could be inflicted in an African slaver. + +Having driven these worthies into a corner, and knowing that the only +two small boats we had left would stand no chance with them, we loaded +the guns, but, having no proper chart, proceeded with caution, feeling +our way with the lead. When just within musket range we let go the +anchor, which was no sooner done than the pirates made a move. We +thought they were coming to sue for terms, but nothing was further +from their intention. One pulled away close in-shore to the eastward, +the others in the opposite direction. They were rowed by about forty +paddles each. What rendered it ridiculous, owing to a strong tide, no +gun could be brought to bear. By the time a warp was laid they were out +of sight. + +The dinghy and jolly-boat gave chase, but the pirates had the start as +well as speed, and although before rounding the point a few men were +seen to drop their paddles from our fire, their pace never slackened. + +We could not help admiring their plucky plan of escape. To attempt to +catch the boats that had pulled to windward was useless, but we lost no +time in slipping our cable and making sail in chase. We had not wind +enough, and lost sight of her at dusk off the mouth of a river. + +We returned next morning to pick up our anchor. It was a place well +adapted as a rendezvous for pirates. The bay we found studded with +rocks, and to my horror I found that Her Majesty’s _Dido_ had anchored +between two that were awash at low-water. + +A mountain stream of delicious water runs into the bay between two +rocks, and the coast abounds with oysters. + +We anchored off Tanjong Poe, outside the bar at the entrance of the +river leading to Rajah Brooke’s residence and seat of Government at +Sarawak. + +At half-tide on the following morning we crossed the bar, carrying +no less than 3½ fathoms water, and entered the beautiful river of +Morataba, up which we ran for twelve miles under sail. + +_Dido_ was the first square-rigged vessel that had ever entered these +waters. We came to off the junction river which unites the principal +entrance to Sarawak. + +It is here that the capital ought to have been built, and would have +been but for the curse of piracy and its sequel, slavery. + +In the evening our boats with the Rajah joined us, having come up by +western entrance. + +After leaving us on the 8th, they proceeded to the Island of Murrundum, +a famous rendezvous, where they came on a fleet of the Illanun tribe, +who did not give them an opportunity of closing, but, cutting their +sampans adrift, made a precipitate flight; opening fire as they ran out +on the opposite side of a small bay in which they had been refitting. +This of course led to an exciting chase, a running fire kept up on both +sides; but the range was too great, and the prahus, in addition to +sailing well, were each propelled by from forty to fifty long paddles, +and made their escape. + +As they went in the direction of the Natunas, Horton took that course, +and anchored under the south end in 3 fathoms water; but next morning, +owing to the fall of tide, the pinnace had grounded. The Rajah and +Horton proceeded in one of the cutters to reconnoitre. As they neared +the south-west point, they were met by six prahus, beating tomtoms +as they advanced, making demonstrations of fight. Horton judiciously +turned to rejoin the other boats, and the pinnace having floated, he +formed his little squadron in line abreast, and prepared to meet his +antagonist. + +Brooke, however, discovered that the fleet advancing were not Illanuns +and fancied there must be some mistake. The Natunas people had been +trading at Sarawak, and he was well acquainted with a powerful chief +who resided on one of the Natuna group; he therefore raised a white +handkerchief on his spy-glass, and from the bow of the pinnace waved, +hailed, and gesticulated to warn them of their danger, but a discharge +of small arms was the only reply. They then detached their smaller +boats in-shore to cut off our retreat, and the rest advanced, beating +tomtoms, and blazing away with all the confidence of victory. It was +an anxious moment for _Dido’s_ small party; the only heavy gun of the +pinnace was loaded with grape and canister, and kept pointed on the +largest prahu. The men waited with their muskets for the order to fire. +It was not until within pistol range that Horton poured into the enemy +his well-prepared dose. + +This brought them up; yet a few had the temerity to exchange shots for +a couple of minutes. The largest prahu now called for quarter, while +the other five made for the shore chased by the two cutters. + +The prize proved to be a prahu mounting three brass guns, with a crew +of thirty-six men, belonging to the Rajah of Rhio, which had been +despatched by that chief to collect tribute about the Natuna group. +They had ten men killed and eleven wounded (four of them mortally). +They affected the greatest astonishment on discovering that our boats +belonged to a British man-of-war, and stated that the island had lately +been plundered by the Illanuns, for whom they had taken us; that the +rising sun was in their eyes. Horton, thinking there might be some +foundation for their story, let the surgeon, Simpson, and his assistant +dress their wounds, and after admonishing them to be more careful in +future, restored their boats, as well as the others which belonged to +the islands. These in the meantime had been taken possession of by the +cutters after they had reached the shore, and landed their killed and +wounded, who were borne away so smartly by the natives that our men had +no time to ascertain the number. + +Three of the prahus belonged to the same fleet of Illanuns that escaped +the _Dido_ off Cape Datu. It afforded some amusement to find among the +slightly wounded our Rajah’s wealthy and respectable friend, who was +not a little ashamed at being recognised. + +Among the mortally wounded lay the young commander of the prahu, one +of the finest forms of the human race, with a countenance to match. He +was shot through the lungs, but made attempts to speak. His conquerors +raised him gently into a sitting posture of comparative ease, but the +end speedily came. He expired where I daresay his proudest and happiest +moments had been passed. + +We afterwards ascertained that the pirates believed that our boats were +coming from a wreck on the south-east coast of the island, and were +full of choice loot. Piracy is so inherent in a Malay that few can +resist the temptation when an opportunity offers. + +[Sidenote: Sarawak, May 17.] + +On Rajah Brooke’s landing, astonished the natives by firing a salute +from heavier guns than they, as yet, had ever heard. + +During the morning large boats, some carrying as many as 200 people, +had been coming down the river to hail Brooke’s return; and one of +the greatest gratifications I had was in witnessing the undisguised +delight, mingled with gratitude and respect, with which each headman +welcomed their newly-elected ruler back to his adopted country. + +Although many of the Malay chiefs had every reason to expect that in +the _Dido_ they saw the means by which their misdeeds were to be +punished, they showed their confidence in Mr. Brooke by bringing their +children with them--a sign peculiar to the Malay. + +The scene was both novel and exciting to us (just anchored in a large +fresh-water river, and surrounded by a densely-wooded jungle); the +whole surface of the water was covered with canoes and boats, dressed +out with various-coloured silken flags, filled with natives beating +their tomtoms, and playing on wild and not unpleasant-sounding wind +instruments, varied by the occasional discharge of firearms. + +To them it must have been equally striking and extraordinary (as few of +them had ever seen any larger vessel than their own war-boats, or even +a European, until Brooke’s arrival), to witness the _Dido_ anchored +almost in the centre of their town, her mastheads towering above the +trees of their jungle; to hear the loud report of her 32-pounder guns, +and watch the running aloft to furl sails of 150 seamen, in their white +dresses, the band playing, all which helped to make an impression that +will not easily be forgotten. + +The next business was my visit of ceremony to Rajah Muda Hassim, which +was sport, though conducted in the most imposing manner. + +The band, and the marines as a guard, having landed, we (the officers) +assembled at Brooke’s house, where, having made ourselves as formidable +as we could with swords and cocked hats, we marched in procession to +the Royal residence. + +His Highness sent one of his brothers to receive us, who led me by the +hand into the Royal presence. The palace was a long low shed, built on +piles, to which we ascended by a ladder. The audience-chamber was hung +with red and yellow silk curtains, and round the back and one side of +the platform occupied by the Rajah were ranged his Ministers, warriors, +and men-at-arms, bearing swords, spears, shields, and other warlike +weapons. Opposite to them were drawn up our Royal Marines, the contrast +between the two bodyguards being amusing. + +Muda Hassim was a wretched-looking little man. Still, there was a +courteous and gentle manner about him that prepossessed us in his +favour, and made us feel that we were before a Chief who had been +accustomed to command. + +We took our places in a semicircle, on seats provided for the occasion, +smoked cigars and drank tea. His Highness chewed his sirih-leaf and +betel-nut, seated with one leg crossed under him, and playing with his +toes. + +Very little is ever said during these audiences; so we sat staring at +one another for half an hour, with mutual astonishment. After the usual +compliments of wishing our friendship might last as long as the moon, +and my having offered him the _Dido_, and everything else that did not +belong to me, in exchange for his house, we took our leave. + +[Sidenote: May 19.] + +This was the day fixed for Muda Hassim’s visit to the _Dido_, about +which he appeared anxious, as he had seldom been known to go beyond his +own threshold. + +For this ceremony all the boats, guns, tomtoms, flags, and population +were put in requisition; and the procession to the ship was a gorgeous +and amusing spectacle. We received him on board with a royal salute. He +brought in his train a whole tribe of natural brothers. His guards and +followers were strange enough, and far too numerous for the _Dido’s_ +deck; but whether the most important personages of the realm were kept +out we did not ascertain. One fellow succeeded in obtaining a footing +with a large yellow silk canopy, a corner of which having run into the +eye of one of the midshipmen, the bearer missed his footing, and down +came the whole concern--as I was informed, by _accident_! + +The party assembled in my cabin, and the remarks were few; nor did they +manifest great astonishment at anything. In fact, a Malay never allows +himself to be surprised. I believe, however, His Highness did not think +much of my veracity when I informed him that this was not the largest +ship belonging to Her Britannic Majesty, and that she had several +mounting upwards of 100 guns. He admitted that he had seen a grander +sight than any of his ancestors. + +There was much distress depicted on the Royal countenance during his +visit, which I afterwards ascertained was owing to his having been +informed that he must not spit in my cabin. + +On leaving the ship, whether the cherry-brandy he had taken made him +forget his directions I do not know, but he squirted a mouthful of red +betel-nut juice over the white deck, and then had the temerity to hold +out his hand to the First Lieutenant! + +This farce over, I had now some time to refit my _Dido_ in one of the +prettiest spots on earth, and as unlike a dockyard as anything could be. + +[Sidenote: May.] + +Brooke’s residence, although equally rude in structure with the abodes +of the natives, was not without its English comforts of sofas, chairs, +bedsteads, and baths. It was larger than any other, but, like them, +being built upon piles, we had to mount a ladder to get into it. + +It was situated on the same side of the river (the left bank), next to, +but rather in the rear of, Muda Hassim’s palace, with a clear space of +about 150 yards between the back and the edge of the jungle. + +Palisades and a ditch, surrounding the building, formed a protection +to sheep, goats, occasionally bullocks, pigeons, cats, poultry, geese, +monkeys, dogs and ducks, and snakes. + +The house consisted of but one floor. A large room in the centre, +neatly ornamented with every description of firearms, in admirable +order, served as an audience and mess-room. + +The various apartments round it served as bedrooms, most of them +comfortably furnished with matted floors, easy-chairs, pictures, and +books, with much more taste and attention to comfort than bachelors +usually display. + +The Europeans with Mr. Brooke consisted of Mr. Bloomfield Douglas, +formerly in the Navy, a clever young surgeon, and a gentleman of the +name of Williamson, who, being master of the native language, as well +as active and intelligent, made an excellent Prime Minister. + +Besides these were two others who came out in Brooke’s yacht--one an +old man-of-war’s man, who kept the arms in first-rate condition, and +another worthy character called Charlie, who looked after the accounts +and had charge of everything. These were attended by servants of +different nations. + +The cooking establishment was perfect, and the utmost harmony +prevailed. The great feeding-time was at sunset, when Brooke took his +seat at the head of the table, and all the establishment, as in days of +yore, seated themselves according to their respective grades. + +[Illustration: Dido _at Sarawak_.] + +This hospitable board was open to all the officers of the _Dido_, and +many a jovial evening we spent there. + +Before we left Singapore Mr. Whitehead had kindly offered his yacht, +the _Emily_, a schooner of 50 tons, with a native crew, to bring +our letters to Borneo, on the arrival of the mail from England. +After our short experience, I thought it advisable to send a boat +to cruise in the neighbourhood of Cape Datu; _Dido’s_ largest boat +being under repair, Brooke lent one he had built at Sarawak, called +the _Jolly Bachelor_. Having fitted her with a brass 6-pounder and a +volunteer crew of a mate, two mids, six marines and twelve seamen, +and fortnight’s provisions, the Second Lieutenant, Hunt, was well +pleased at getting the command. His orders were to cruise, keep a good +look-out for the _Emily_ yacht, and escort her into Sarawak, but he +was on no account to land; Douglas volunteered his services in case an +interpreter should be required. + +It appears that the day after they sailed they chased three sail in the +distance, without nearing them; they appeared a second and third time +after dusk with same result. It now being late, the crew fatigued and +hungry, Hunt pulled in-shore, lighted a fire, cooked their provisions, +and then hauled her out to her grapnel near some rocks for the night. +They laid down to rest with their arms by their sides, ready loaded. +The marines’ muskets were stopped up and down the mainmast. The boat +had a small forecastle as well as an extended decked stern over the +rudder-head, which held the commander. Having appointed look-out men, I +suppose owing to the fatigues of the day, they one and all fell asleep. + +About 3 A.M., the moon rising, Hunt, happening to awake, observed a +savage brandishing a kris and performing his war-dance on the bit of +deck forward in an ecstasy of delight, thinking, in all probability, +of the ease in which he had got possession of a fine trading-boat, and +calculating the value of white slaves he would have to dispose of; +little dreaming of the hornets’ nest into which he had fallen. Jim +Hunt’s round fat face meeting the light of the rising moon, without +a turban surmounting it, was the first notice the pirate had of his +mistake. + +He immediately plunged overboard, and before Hunt had sufficiently +recovered his astonishment to know whether he was dreaming or not, or +to arouse the crew, a discharge from three or four cannon within a few +yards, and the cutting through the rigging of various missiles with +which the guns were loaded, convinced him of his disobedience of orders. + +It was as well the men were still lying down, as not one was hurt, but +on jumping up they found themselves closely pressed by two large war +prahus--one on each bow. To return the fire, cut the cable, man the +oars, and back astern to gain room, was the work of a minute. But now +came the tug-of-war. It was a case of life or death. + +Our men fought as British sailors ought; quarter was not expected +on either side, and the quick and deadly aim of the Royal Marines +prevented the pirates from re-loading. + +The Illanun prahus are built with strong bulwarks or barricades, +grapeshot-proof, across the fore part of their boats, through which +ports are cut; these bulwarks had to be cut away by round shot from +the _Jolly Bachelor’s_ brass 6-pounder before the musketry could bear +effectually. This done, our grape and canister told with fearful +execution. In the meantime, the pirates had been pressing forward to +board while _Jolly Bachelor_ backed astern. As soon as this service was +performed, the few men so employed dropped their oars and resumed their +muskets. The work was sharp and short, but the slaughter great. + +While one pirate prahu was sinking, and an effort made to secure her, +the other effected an escape by getting round the point of rocks where +a third and larger prahu, hitherto unseen, came to her assistance and +took her in tow. + +Although subsequently chased by the _Jolly Bachelor_, they escaped. +While setting fire to the captured prahu, which had some 3 feet of +blood and water in her, a slave swam off who had escaped during the +fight, and informed our men that the three prahus were the same the +_Dido_ had seen off Cape Datu; they had, including slaves, from fifty +to sixty men each on board. + +[Sidenote: May 21.] + +The day fixed for my receiving an important letter from Rajah Muda +Hassim. Officers and self assembled with much ceremony at Brooke’s +hall of audience, where I found assembled all the chiefs and a crowd +of natives, many of whom had already been informed that the said +letter was a requisition for me to assist in putting down the hordes +of pirates who had so long infested the coast. I believe many of those +present, especially the Borneans, to have been casually concerned, +if not deeply implicated, in some of their transactions. After I had +taken my seat with Brooke, at the head of the table, the Rajah’s +sword-bearers entered, clearing the way for the huge yellow canopy, +under the shade of which, on a large brass tray, and carefully sewn up +in a yellow silk bag, was the letter, from which it was removed and +placed in my hands by the Pangeran Budrudeen (the Rajah’s brother). +I opened the bag with my knife, and handing it to an interpreter, he +read it aloud in the Malayan tongue. It was variously received by the +audience, many of whose countenances were far from prepossessing. + +Following is a copy of the letter, to which was attached the Rajah’s +seal:-- + + This friendly Epistle, having its source in a pure mind, + comes from Rajah Muda Hassim, next in succession to the Royal + Throne of the Kingdom of Borneo, and who holds his Court at + the trading city of Sarawak, to our friend Henry Keppel, head + Captain of the war-frigate of Her Britannic Majesty, renowned + throughout all countries, who is valiant and discreet, and + endowed with a mild and gentle nature. + + This is to inform our friend that there are certain great + pirates of the people of Sarebas and Sakarran in our + neighbourhood seizing goods and murdering people on the high + seas. They have more than three hundred war prahus, and extend + their ravages even to Bangermussim. They are not subject to + the Government of Bruni (Borneo). They take much plunder from + vessels trading between Singapore and the good people of our + country. It would be a great service if our friend would adopt + measures to put an end to these piratical outrages. We can + present nothing better to our friend than a kris, such as it is. + + _20th day of Rabiul Akhir, 1257._ + +To which I sent the following reply:-- + + Captain Keppel begs to acknowledge the receipt of the Rajah + Muda Hassim’s letter, representing that the Dyaks of Sarebas + and Sakarran are the pirates who invest the coast of Borneo and + do material damage to the trade of Singapore. Captain Keppel + will take speedy measures to suppress these and all other + pirates, and feels confident that Her Britannic Majesty will be + glad to learn that the Rajah Muda Hassim is ready to co-operate + in so laudable an undertaking. + +Not being prepared for the Oriental fashion of exchanging presents, +I had nothing to offer, but I found afterwards that Mr. Brooke had +(unknown to me) sent a clock in my name. + +The Royal kris was handsome--handle of carved ivory, with a good deal +of gold about it. My son has it. + +This letter of the Rajah’s gave me a good excuse of putting in motion +the small preparations I, with Brooke’s assistance and advice, had +been quietly making. We determined on attacking the pirates in their +strongholds, commencing with the Sarebas. Brooke (the Tuan Besar), +going to join personally in a war against such opponents who had never +been conquered, although repeatedly attacked by the united forces of +the surrounding Rajahs, was strongly opposed by the Datus. But Brooke +having informed them that he should go, the reply was, “If you die, we +die; what is the use of our remaining?” + +Brooke and I attended in my six-oared gig, which had been covered in +like a native boat with _kadjang_, the mast and oars landed. The crew, +which was increased by two, propelled her by paddles facing forward; +each paddle was stopped by a lanyard to the brass rowlock. Each man was +provided with a carbine. I had with the pennant in the bow the master +of the band with his bugle, who could sound my whereabouts. Horton +ascended the Sarebas River with ten boats, the lighter ones fitted much +the same as my gig. + +[Sidenote: May 24.] + +The capital and stronghold of the pirates was some seventy miles up, +where they had gone to receive us; and with our large following of +natives with stores and provisions, there was no hurry. Wherever we +landed we appeared to be welcome. We brought up for the night off a +creek which led to a Chinese settlement. The chief of the Kongsee +came off to do homage to “Datu Brooke.” A different tribe of Dyaks +inhabit the Sarebas Mountain, gorgeous in feathers and scarlet. We did +not expect a road, but a number of these natives kindly shouldered +our small bags and provisions. I, for one, was not prepared for the +dance led us by our wild-cat-like guides, through thick jungle, and +alternately over rocky hills and the thick marshes we had to cross. +If we attempted to stop, many a fall and flounder in the mud was the +consequence. The ascent of the hill, although steep, was strikingly +beautiful. Our resting-places few; but when we did reach one, the cool, +fresh breeze, and the increasing extent and variety of scene, embracing +as it did river, mountain, wood, and sea, amply repaid the exertion +of the climb. On either hand we were sure of a cool rivulet tumbling +over the rocks. While going up, our care and attention was requisite to +secure our safety; for it is not only one continued climb up ladders, +but _such_ ladders!--made of the single trunk of a tree in its rough +and rounded state, with notches, not cut with the reasonable distance +of the ratlines of our rigging, but requiring the knee to be brought +level with the chin before the feet are sufficiently parted to reach +from one step to another; and that when the muscles of the thigh begin +to ache, and the wind is pumped out of the body. We mounted in this +manner some 500 feet. We were received in one of the circular halls +of these Dyaks, hung round with hundreds of human heads, most of them +dried with the skin and hair on. To give them, if possible, a more +ghastly appearance, small shells (the cowry) are inserted where the +eyes once were. Tufts of dry grass protruded from the ears. + +But my eyes soon got accustomed to the sight, and by the time our +meal was ready we did not mind dining in the scullery. Of course the +natives crowded round us; with these people it was as with the more +civilised--curiosity was strongest in the gentler sex. + +[Sidenote: May 25.] + +Having returned to our boats, moved up another branch of the river, +and, with the chance of some deer-shooting, landed under a group +of shady trees. The distance we had to walk to our game our guides +considered nothing: some five miles through jungle. + +Just before sunset we came to a jungle which opened on a swamp of long +rank grass. Leeches abounded, getting up one’s legs and down one’s +socks. They caused no pain when they caught on, but on taking off our +shoes we frequently found them saturated with blood. + +The guide having made signs for me to advance, after some trouble, +watching the direction of his finger, I observed the heads of two deer +just above the grass about 60 yards distant. From the manner the doe +was moving about her long ears, it had, to my view, all the appearance +of a rabbit. + +Shooting for the pot, I selected her. As I fired, two of my boat’s crew +dashed into the grass, and within a moment were up to their chins in +mud and water. We had some difficulty in dragging them out. + +Our Malay guide reached the deer from the opposite side, taking care +to utter the prayer and cut the throat with the head in the direction +of the Prophet’s tomb. The doe was struck just below the ear, and my +native companions appeared astonished at the distance and deadly effect +with which my smooth-bore Westley-Richards had conveyed the ball. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIX + +_DIDO_--BORNEO + + +[Sidenote: 1843. June 6.] + +We now began to prepare for work of another sort. After our small +flotilla had started, the _Dido_ took a berth about two miles inside +the entrance of the Sarebas River, off Pulo Burong, by way of securing +our retreat. + +We had daily accounts of the formidable resistance the pirates intended +to make. By the 8th our preparations were complete. The neighbouring +Seriffs sent assurances of their good intentions to the Rajah. + +Seriff Jaffer, who lived with an industrious but warlike race up +the Linga, a branch of the Batang Lupar River, had never been known +to commit an act of piracy, but had been frequently at war with the +Sarebas and Sekarrans, offered to join our expedition. + +Seriff Sahib, lived up the Sadong River, adjoining the Sarebas +territory. Macota, a smooth-tongued villain, known among us as “The +Serpent,” sent Brooke and myself an invitation to partake of a feast +while on our way up the Sarebas. + +This invite was accompanied by a present of two handsome spears and a +porcupine. He also offered to give up a woman and her children whom he +had, with the assistance of the Sekarrans, captured from the Sow Dyaks +on the Sarawak River. + +Further to the eastward, and up the Batang Lupar, into which the +Sekarran runs, lived another powerful Seriff, by name Mulla, elder +brother of Sahib. + +All these, through fear, sent submissive messages; but their turn was +yet to come. We proceeded towards the Sarebas capital. + +[Sidenote: June 8.] + +I have neither space nor time to give all the names nor describe the +force, and am afraid there are few now alive whose names it would be a +pleasure for me to record. Lieutenant Wilmot, who commanded the _Dido_ +force, was in the pinnace. With him were W. H. Partridge, mate; W. +Simpson, assistant-surgeon; Hallowes, midshipman. + +In first cutter: D’Aeth, midshipman; Bloomfield Douglas, as +interpreter; Mr. Collinson, boatswain. Second cutter: Mr. Elliott, +master, and Jenkins, midshipman. + +In the _Jolly Bachelor_: Lieutenant Tottenham, and Comber, midshipman; +also Mr. Brooke’s medical attendant, Dr. Treacher, as well as an +amateur, Mr. Ruppell. Total force from _Dido_ was eighty, officers and +men. + +The all-important “Datu Brooke” was with me in the gig. He was +also attended by a sampan and crew he had brought from Singapore. +Brooke’s coxswain, Seboo, we shall long remember. He was civil only +to his master, and, I believe, brave while in his company. Seboo was +stupid-looking, but a powerfully-built sort of savage. When going into +action he went on his knees, holding a loaded musket before him. + +In the second gig was Lieutenant E. Gunnell, whose troublesome duty +it was to keep order. Stores were in a tope: the whole formed a novel +scene. + +It was curious to contemplate the different feelings that actuated +Malays and Dyaks: many from attachment to Brooke, some for plunder, but +I think the majority to gratify revenge. + +We did not get far the first day, as the tope was slow, and carried +that most essential part of all expeditions--the commissariat. + +[Sidenote: June 9.] + +We had got another thirty miles. I pulled from one end to the other of +Horton’s Mosquito Fleet with as much pride as Sir William Parker must +have felt when heading seventy-five British ships up the Yang-tse-Kiang +in the heart of the Chinese Empire. + +I had left Brooke with the youngsters on board the _Jolly Bachelor_. +Late in the afternoon, when well in advance, I observed, hidden under +the bushes, a long canoe--no doubt a look-out; and I daresay my gig, +with its Kadjang coverings, was taken for one of themselves. + +I fired at the fore-part of her. There was a rush into the jungle. On +examination we found the bullet had gone through both sides of an iron +kettle, and I expect astonished the cook. + +During the day several deserted boats with arms in them were taken from +the banks and destroyed. + +Before we brought up for the night we had to face the bore, a wall +of water, the approach of which might be seen near a mile off. It is +formed by the contraction of the river, and rises with the flood-tide +some 8 feet. + +Anchors were let go, and by keeping a strain on the cables we partially +moved with it. The bore soon loses strength, giving anchors time to +bite. After it had passed we took up our berths in two lines up a reach +of the river. My gig was secured under the shade of a large tree, near +the inner line of boats. + +[Sidenote: June 10.] + +Late in the evening, when the song and joke had ceased and lights out, +the paddles of a canoe were heard and hailed by each of our boats in +succession, to which they replied, “We belong to your party.” And it +was not until we heard the yell of triumph given by six or eight voices +that we found how we had been imposed upon. The beating of gongs and +firing of guns went on all night. We weighed at daylight. Our rapid +advance with a strong tide must have been seen from the various hills +which now rose to our view. Brooke had rejoined me in the gig. + +[Sidenote: June 11.] + +We were somewhat ahead of the boats, tide sweeping us up; had we been +inclined to retreat, we should have found it difficult. A sharp turn +brought us into a straight and widened river, at the end of which was a +cleared hill surmounted by a battery of brass guns. Halfway between the +battery and ourselves, in 9 feet of water, was a freshly-made barrier, +formed of long poles driven in--4 feet apart--one in front of the +other. The ends above water were made to cross, so as to form a crutch, +on which trees were laid horizontally, firmly secured by _rôtans_. It +took our boats, assisted by the native followers, some minutes to cut +a couple of openings, Greenhill battery meanwhile playing on them. +D’Aeth, in the cutter, was the first to get through. + +Just before what I have attempted to describe, we observed a small gap +in the barrier under some overhanging branches. Having a strong tide +with us, Brooke and I thought we could dash through. We hung for a +few seconds, when we were covered with leaves and small boughs. The +piratical gunner on the Greenhill battery, although the line was good, +had given too much elevation, and I believe the tide brought us up +earlier than they expected, as the pirates came swarming down, but too +late for their spears to reach before we had got out clear into the +open space, with D’Aeth, in the cutter, on same side with ourselves. He +was at once off to the Greenhill. + +However smart these piratical gentry might be with their ordnance +afloat, D’Aeth and his blue-jackets and cutlasses were in possession +of their battery before they had time to reload. We had only three men +wounded while cutting through the barrier. + +Our native auxiliaries were soon with us: the dreaded Sarebas +stronghold of two centuries no longer existed, and the baskets made to +hold “Datu Brooke’s” head and mine were not wanted, this time. + +The pirates ran away as our men landed, and a few minutes after the +native allies had got to work the whole town was ablaze. After rest and +refreshment, Brooke proposed following up the fugitives, and started +with Horton in the pinnace, accompanied by some native followers. +I remained in the _Jolly Bachelor_ to see the amputation of poor +Batterson’s arm (one of my best men, captain of the forecastle). + +It was now late, drizzly rain falling, when the booming of the +pinnace’s heavy gun showed that Horton had come in contact with the +pirates. This was responded to by one of those simultaneous war-yells, +apparently from every part of the country. I jumped into my gig, taking +my pet bugler, John Eager, who was placed in the bow. Our arms were in +readiness; we proceeded to join the combatants. + +Tide had just turned against us, and as we advanced up the river, +trees hung over many parts, nearly meeting across. At the same time, +the occasional firing that was kept up assured me that the enemy were +on the alert, and with all the advantages of local knowledge, as well +as darkness, on their side. From the winding of the stream, too, the +yells appeared to come from every direction--sometimes ahead, sometimes +astern. + +We had pulled, feeling our way for nearly two hours, when a sudden +quick discharge of musketry on my left intimated that we were +approaching the scene of action. At the same time we passed several +large war-boats hauled up on the bank. I felt convinced that our party +was surrounded, and that we should have to fight our way to each other. +Strongly impressed with this idea, I approached with caution. In the +distance I could dimly discern a crowd that I knew I must pass to get +to our people. I prepared the crew to do their best--pull for their +lives, and told John Eager to strike up “Rory O’More.” When abreast, +emptied both barrels into the thick of them. + +Conceive my horror, fair reader, when I heard Horton’s voice, “Don’t +fire, sir; we are here.” My first exclamation was, “How could you allow +anything to approach without hailing?” + +No one was killed. One bullet, after striking the bow of the pinnace, +hit the breastplate of a Royal Marine and knocked him into the water. +The other went through both cheeks of one of our native followers +without breaking a tooth. + +Horton’s explanation was that they were keeping out of sight of a +superior force of pirates, who were near enough to throw spears among +them, and they believed themselves surrounded. I believe “Rory O’More” +had dispersed the enemy. + +[Sidenote: June 12.] + +Daylight brought a flag of truce. Brooke sent an unarmed Malay to meet +them; after a little palaver they came to our boats. The message was, +they were ready to abide by any terms we might dictate. I promised that +hostilities should cease for two hours, but that we could treat only +with the chiefs, whose persons should be protected, and invited them to +a conference at 1 P.M. + +At the appointed hour the chiefs made their appearance, dressed in +their best, but looking haggard and dejected. Brooke, as “Tuan Besar,” +officiated as spokesman. He fully explained that our invasion of their +country was not for the purposes of pillage or gain to ourselves, but +as a punishment for their piracy. He reminded them that they had been +fully warned two years before that the British nation would no longer +allow the native trade between Singapore and the adjacent islands to be +cut off and plundered as it had been. + +They were humble and submissive, and admitted their lives were +forfeited; said if we “ordered” them to die they were prepared. +Finally, they promised to refrain for ever from piracy, and offered +hostages for their good behaviour. + +[Sidenote: June 13.] + +On our return to the still smoking ruins of the town of Paddi, we +found that Seriff Jaffer, our ally, with his 800 warriors had not been +idle. It was a melancholy sight: thirteen bodies lying in a row. How +many wounded escaped we didn’t know. Collecting our forces, we dropped +leisurely down the river, but not without a parting yell of triumph +from our Dyak force--a yell that should have made the hearts of those +quail whose wives and children lay concealed in the heart of the +jungle, near where we had held the conference. + +[Sidenote: June 14.] + +We rejoined the commissariat tope and prepared for an attack on Pakoo. +With four days’ provisions we went up another branch of the river. An +hour before sunset we arrived at the foot of two newly built stockades, +but the people knew of the example at Paddi, and were in a state of +panic. They stood but one discharge and fled. Pakoo and the adjacent +country were destroyed. I saw here the operation of cooking and +preserving heads, and a very unpleasing one it was. + +[Sidenote: June 15.] + +At daylight the smaller boats proceeded up and met a flag of truce. +An offer was made by the chiefs to come to terms. But as they denied +having any connection with their neighbours, the Rembas pirates, we +returned to Boling, and made preparations for giving _them_ also a +lesson they would not forget. + +[Sidenote: June 16.] + +The tides not suiting to take us the whole way, and not having +sufficient moon to make a night attack, we brought up about sunset, a +quarter-tide below Rembas Forts. No end of monkeys about, but no time +to play with them. + +[Sidenote: June 17.] + +Proceeding at daylight, but met the most formidable barriers we had +yet encountered, and which detained us some time in cutting through. +However, when this was accomplished the resistance was small. + +Looting of bullocks, goats, and poultry very great; likewise the +destruction of forts, houses, war-boats, grain, fruit-trees, etc. The +Rembas was by far the richest and finest country we had seen. The +lesson the chiefs received will not be forgotten. In the afternoon, +collecting our boats and prizes, and dismissing allies, we prepared +to return. Moving down with the ebb tide, we reached the tope at +midnight. Grub very low. + +[Sidenote: June 18.] + +Shifted into the tope to stretch my legs, hurrying the boats back to +the ships. The tope a dull brute though, with poor sick Dr. Simpson and +two badly wounded men. Anchored at the mouth of the river. + +[Sidenote: June 19.] + +Light winds and calm. Did not progress. Other boats ahead. Feel tired, +not having had clothes off, except to bathe, for a fortnight. + +[Sidenote: June 20.] + +What we make with the wind we lose with the tide. Still off the mouth +of the Sarebas. + +[Sidenote: June 22.] + +At daylight rigged jury-mast. Light breeze. Ship still twenty miles +off. Simpson worse. Took to my gig, getting on board in the evening. +Glad of it, too. Sent pinnace with provisions, and to fetch sick and +wounded. Received orders to return to China. + +[Sidenote: June 23.] + +Left the ship with Brooke on first of the flood-tide. Came up with our +valiant auxiliaries, who were waiting to accompany us to the capital. +Bade Muda Hassim farewell. Much saluting on all sides. Parting dinner +with Brooke. + +[Sidenote: June 24.] + +Left friend Brooke’s hospitable board at the early hour of 3 A.M., and +started first of the flood for the ship. Got on board at nine, and +weighed for Singapore. + +[Sidenote: June 25.] + +At sea. No spare time to look for pirates. Good cruising-ground, +though! Left our marks on some of them, poor devils! Did some good for +trade, and proportionate harm to pirates. + +[Sidenote: June 27.] + +Improving breeze. All good wine done. Time to get into Singapore again. + +My stay in Sarawak was of short duration, because, before I had time +to carry out the arrangements made to put down this horrid piracy, +the _Dido_ was, owing to changes in the distribution of the fleet, +recalled to China. Not expecting to revisit Borneo during the period +the ship had to run before completing her usual time of commission, +it is gratifying to read the following in my friend Brooke’s journal, +alluding to that time: + +[Illustration: _A River Scene._] + +“I came myself in the _Dido_, and I may say that her appearance was +the consummation of my enterprise. The natives saw directly that +there was a force to protect and to punish, and most of the chiefs, +conscious of their evil ways, trembled. Muda Hassim was gratified, and +felt that this power would exalt his authority, both in Borneo and +along the coast, and he was not slow in magnifying the force of the +_Dido_. The state in which Captain Keppel and his officers visited the +Rajah all heightened the effect; the marines and the band excited the +admiration as well as the fears of the natives. I felt the Rajah’s +hand tremble at the first interview, and not all the well-known command +of countenance could conceal his emotion.” + +Gentle reader, excuse my vanity if I continue a little further with my +friend’s journal, although it gets rather personal: + +“I believe the first emotion was anything but pleasurable; but Captain +Keppel’s conciliatory and kind manner soon removed any feeling of fear, +and all along was of the greatest use to me in our subsequent doings.” + + + + +CHAPTER XXX + +_Dido_--CHINA + + +[Sidenote: 1843. June 28.] + +Afternoon, came to in Singapore Roads. Put up with friend Whitehead. +Glad again to catch Henry Seymour in _Harlequin_. + +Sorry to hear of the death of my dear old Royal master, the Duke of +Sussex. + +Examination of midshipmen. One rare stupid, but passed them all! Landed +poor Dr. Simpson at sick-quarters looking too ill. + +[Sidenote: June 30.] + +Weighed for China. Synge of 98th with me. Have to work up against +monsoon. A lovely squall carried us eleven knots, on a wind. At sunset +shifted topsails ready for the next. No wish for a typhoon though. + +[Sidenote: July 12.] + +1 A.M.--Anchored in Hong Kong. Breakfast with Commander-in-Chief. +Rear-Admiral Sir Thomas Cochrane present. + +The Plenipotentiary, Sir Henry Pottinger, was busy extracting indemnity +from Mandarins, who understood as much or as little as they liked. +Although war was over, it was necessary to retain possession of certain +points until the indemnity was paid. This caused many transports to +lie idle at Whampoa. Nor was there enough of the rupee coin to pay the +crews. Idleness, root of evil. + +_Dido_ being a post command, it fell to my disagreeable lot to keep +order. I did not think much of the Consuls and Vice-Consuls, nor they +of me. The Plenipo and Admiral, not having much to do, were jealous. + +If I have any fair readers, I would advise them to skip the following. +I hope shortly to take them to new ground. + +[Sidenote: July 13.] + +Cunynghame to breakfast. Lent me his pony that I might dine with 98th +at Chuck Chow. Whimper, senior, attentive and kind, as they all were, +proposed my health as senior honorary member. + +[Sidenote: July 17.] + +Signal for _Dido_, “Prepare for sea.” Sailed for Macao with Edwards and +Wade. One of the pirates who had murdered Dr. Kinlay caught. + +[Sidenote: July 19.] + +Pleasant dinner with Lord Saltoun. Met Colonel Colin Campbell, of 98th; +also Wade, same regiment, who became a wonderful Chinese scholar. + +[Sidenote: July 22.] + +_Agincourt_ (nicknamed _’Gincourt_) doing “small craft,” cruising about +the harbour. During the afternoon she got on shore, and _Dido_ was +signalled to go to her assistance. + +[Sidenote: July 24.] + +Got orders to take station at Whampoa, first communicating with +Plenipo. Consul stupid. Asked him to dinner. He came, although too ill +to wait on me before. + +[Sidenote: Whampoa, July 27.] + +_Dido_ causing sensation among handsome and fast opium clippers. Amoy, +name of an old Chinese woman keeping a tanker-boat here, has $40,000, +made by smuggling opium. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 1.] + +$188,000 taken on board on Government account. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 3.] + +Another instalment of half-million dollars. Settled cases of mutiny on +board merchant ships. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 6.] + +Heard last evening death of our valued friend and shipmate, Dr. +Simpson, at Singapore. + +Our Chinese beef-contractor, being anxious that I should visit his +curiosity-shop, on my stating that I had no money, exclaimed, “Hai yah! +Wot can do? S’pose got no money, how can make handsome face? How get +command fine ship, all same _Dido_.” + +For company I had a French corvette, _L’Alcmène_, 26, Captaine Le Comte +Fourinier. We were good friends; generally breakfasted together. One +morning his approach was announced rather later than usual, but in full +uniform. I had to listen to a complaint. + +During his morning’s pull he happened to pass through Blenheim +Reach, and to his astonishment (_and_ mine) he found six British +men-of-war--three of them ships of the line. He stated that by treaty +we were limited to a certain number, and seemed to think he had been +hardly used by my not having let him know this fact before. + +I took him by the arm and conducted him down to breakfast; then +informed him that what he had seen were merely our “tea-chests.” But, +he exclaimed, that happening to be there at eight o’clock, he had seen +them cross topgallant yards, hoist colours, while the bands played “God +save the Queen.” + +I told him that three of them might _once_ have been ships of the line. +They were now our tea-chests, and came from Calcutta during northerly +monsoon with cotton, and perhaps a bit of opium, and went back by the +southerly monsoon with tea, and perhaps a few curios. + +We had great fun, and he enjoyed the gay parties in Blenheim Reach as +much as we did. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 1.] + +Young Partridge came to dine, many of the name down in Norfolk this +day. I wish I could get my good bird promoted. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 4.] + +Among the cheery parties, few better than that given by Captain Baker +on board the _Earl of Balcarres_. Did not get home before the usual +“daylight.” + +[Sidenote: Sept. 7.] + +Mr. Consul Hamilton arrived from Canton to take up his quarters. _Chez +moi!_ No spare room. He found _Dido_ too hot. Billeted him on board the +_Lowjee Family_. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 16.] + +Regatta of country ships’ boats. Bad finish. Tiller broke in a mate’s +hands; he fell backwards overboard, and was drowned before any one +could get near. Hundreds of spectators. In the midst of life we are in +death. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 24.] + +F. Horton, who had been invalided, took his parting dinner with me. +Sorry indeed to lose him. With use of launch and pinnace was enabled +to make visits to Canton, Macao, and Hong Kong, to say nothing of the +cheery Blenheim Reach. + +I was anxious for a change, having been doing magistrate at Whampoa +over two months. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 26.] + +Made visit in launch to Plenipo and friends at Hong Kong; next day to +Macao. While riding one of Gray’s best horses near the boundary lines, +was charged by a buffalo cow, causing a cut nearly a foot in length, +and drawing blood on near flank. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 30.] + +On returning, anchored to save tide off the Chinese fort. Was run down +by a light merchant brig; she carried away our foremast, giving me a +violent blow on left heel. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 3.] + +Admiral arrived in _Spitfire_. With him to Canton. Old round of +curio-shops. Heel very painful. Blue at the fore hoisted on board +_Dido_. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 5.] + +Visited the place where our troops landed and captured Canton before +_Dido_ arrived on the station. Large dinner at Livingstone’s. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 7.] + +_Dido_ resigned flag to _Spiteful_. + +Tied by leg, or, more properly, by the heel. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 11.] + +Gray and Hogg to dinner; also new Master, Allen. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 21.] + +Tiffined with Doctor Marjoribanks. He informed me that a Mandarin in +Canton was seriously ill, and he had been sent for. He told me if I +would care to dress in plain clothes, and come as his assistant, I +should see many things forbidden to “Foreign Devils.” + +Curiously enough, a hundred years ago, my grand-uncle, Admiral Lord +Keppel, then a Mid, wrote in his Log-Book:-- + + “Fryday, _14th October, 1743_.--Commodore Anson, Captain + Saumarez, and myself, put off from the _Centurion_ in ye barge + for Canton.” + +Before his visit in the _Centurion_, no foreigner was known to have +entered the Celestial City, and for a century its gates were closed to +foreigners. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 24.] + +Was about to dine with McKeans, when a fire broke out in Canton. Went +to the top of Livingstone’s house, and found the sight too grand to +leave; had dinner sent up there. Rice birds in perfection. Sent for +_Dido_. + +Passed night in the American _hong_,[6] which soon became too hot. Our +marines protected property, which became easier after a Lascar had been +shot. + +[6] Business House. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 26.] + +All business was stopped for a few days. Dent’s _hong_ took a +flower-boat to live in. I gave them a corporal’s guard of seven marines. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 28.] + +Ordered to Hong Kong. With Jardine and Miss Hogg to Whampoa in a dollar +boat. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 11.] + +[Sidenote: Nov. 15.] + +Hong Kong continuing sickly; two or three funerals daily. The +breaking-up of fresh building ground, I believe, the cause. The +Plenipo’s nephew, Major Pottinger, supposed to be dying. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 16.] + +Signalled at dinner-time to go to Macao. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 17.] + +Anchored early. Saluted French Commodore Roy in _L’Erigone_, 46. +Friends Lindsay and Co. took me in. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 1.] + +Returned to Hong Kong. Quite cold; fires pleasant. Am to accompany +Admiral to Manila. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 4.] + +Weighed from Macao and joined both Admirals off the Ladrones. Beat them +sailing, to my satisfaction. At noon Rear-Admiral got permission to +part company. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 6.] + +Blowing fresh. Both sails and ropes much worn. Dockyard stores short. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 8.] + +Weather finer. Admiral signalled for me to dine at 3 P.M. Same time +sent me to examine strange sail, sixteen miles to leeward. She proved +to be the _Duchess of Gordon_, from Macao, bound to Manila. Rejoined +Admiral during the night. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 9.] + +Signal to dine with Admiral at 4 P.M. No stranger in sight! After +dinner directed to proceed to Manila. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 11.] + +Daylight, anchored off Manila. Put up with Richardson. + +Called on Governor, with letter from Commander-in-Chief, and officials, +and returned at night to be ready to receive Admiral. Much taken with +the wonderful vegetation stretching from shore as far as the eye can +reach. + +Admiral, accompanied by Lord Saltoun, Cunynghame, and Hope Grant, +landed at noon, under a salute of 21 guns. What an opportunity for +me to see the capital of the Philippines! They were received by the +Teniente del Rey and el Mayor de la Plaza, and escorted by cavalry, +guards of soldiers to any extent, also a military band, showing the +cordial feeling which existed between us. + +The city is divided into two parts by a river, and fortified on all +sides. “Orang” is the term used by all peoples of the great Eastern +Archipelago, prefixed to the different races. The residents of the +Spanish Settlements called themselves after the high-sounding name of +Orang Castillia. Malays use the term “Orang Puteh” (white man) for the +English only. + +Nothing could exceed the courtesy and kindness with which the Spanish +authorities, as well as the English and other merchants, treated us. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 14.] + +Visited the Government tobacco factory, and saw 3000 or more native +women manufacturing cheroots. We then went to the _pina_ manufactory, +a beautifully fine but expensive fabric, made from pine-apple fibre, +silky and delicately dyed. We saw the _pina_ dress ordered by the great +Parsee, Sir Jamsetjee Jejeebhoy, to be sent home to the Queen. It cost +$3000, and it took thirty or forty women to weave and prepare the fibre. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 16.] + +Attended the theatre; all native performers. With the small Spanish I +picked up on the south coast of Spain, I really enjoyed the play. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 17.] + +Started, with the Admiral, Saltoun, and suite, after dinner on an +interesting expedition to a place called Guadeloupe, in a well-fitted +canoe. + +Passing through fertile pâdi-land, we were received by the +Adjutant-General in great state on our arriving at Pasig. The priests, +hearing of our approach from Don Crispon, who accompanied us, also +welcomed us by sending in children nicely dressed, bearing wreaths of +flowers and carrying small flags, who danced and sang in procession +till we reached the Casa del Cura, where more salutes were fired. We +were entertained here by the jolly friars of San Augustine. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 19.] + +Passing through beautiful scenery, ascending rapids, and saw wonderful +cascades at Baya Baya. Returned to Cavite Fort. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 20.] + +Embarked, attended by a band of music, with Admiral and General, to see +the hot springs at Los Baños. This was a stream of hot water, which was +falling into the lake at the rate of several hundred gallons a minute, +highly charged with sulphur. The surrounding country is volcanic; near +this lake is the crater of an extinct volcano, but the water which +filled it was putrid and full of crocodiles. + +Here the _cura_ (village priest) entertained our party, his band +playing us in. Indeed, it was a kind of triumphal march all the time, +the people wishing to honour those who had taken part in the conquering +of China. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 23.] + +We reached Pasig at sunset. Mr. Consul Diggles gave a grand dinner, +and afterwards a ball, at which a native tailor introduced himself. He +was helped to an awkward fall downstairs, and roared out he was dead! +Poor Diggles got into trouble about it, a junta of doctors declaring +the tailor was in danger of losing his life. However, a sum of money +soothed this down, like most things amongst natives. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 25.] + +We ate our Christmas dinner at the _hacienda_ of the Augustinian +friars, a rich community, who were most lavish in their entertainment. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 28.] + +Dinner at the United States Consulate; went afterwards to Balancan by +moonlight, staying at the convent of Quingoa, with Padre Faustus; we +slept in small dormitories. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 30.] + +Returned to the city of Manila, getting an excellent cup of chocolate +before starting from a priest who had been a soldier in the Carlist +wars. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 31.] + +Made purchases, by permission of Sir William Parker, of Manila rope, +cordage, sails, booms, and small spars for _Dido_. _Cornwallis_ also +refitted. Paid farewell visits to Captain-General and other friends. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXI + +_Dido_--CALCUTTA + + +[Sidenote: 1844. Jan. 1. Manila.] + +2 P.M.--Weighed in company with _Cornwallis_. + +5.30.--Came to off Cavite Fort. Received on board Lord Saltoun, Hope +Grant, and Captain Cunynghame, A.D.C. Parted company with _Cornwallis_. + +Left Rear-Admiral’s bag of coffee behind, which he won’t think much of. +Have plenty of turkeys, though. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 7.] + +Hong Kong; arrived 7 A.M. Glad to find Charlie Graham in command of +_Castor_, 36, in from England. + +Received following vexatious memo:-- + + H.M.S. _Agincourt_, HONG KONG, + _January 8, 1844_. + + _Memo._--It is my direction that you cause the _Vixen_, + steamer, to be supplied with main topmast studding sail booms, 1. + + Ditto T. gallant do., 1. + + And you will return to the naval storekeeper under-mentioned, + viz.: + + Barling spars, 2. + Middling, do., 3. + Main topgallant studding sail booms, 1. + Swinging booms, 1. + Main topmast studding sail booms, 1. + + (Signed) THOS. COCHRANE, + Rear-Admiral. + + CAPTAIN THE HON. HENRY KEPPEL, + H.M.S. _Dido_. + +[Sidenote: Jan, 23.] + +Attended the counting, weighing, and packing of sycee silver to be sent +by _Dido_. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 25.] + +$400,000 worth of sycee silver shipped this morning for Calcutta. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 28.] + +Farewell dinner given me by Compton, all the merchants accompanying +me with lanterns afterwards to my boat. Three hearty cheers, and we +parted. Have received much kindness and hospitality. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 29.] + +Report of a junk sunk with stones caused me to secure the best Chinese +pilot. On his coming on board, he requested he might have a sailor’s +hat, that he might hide his well-coiled tail, as “too muchee mandarin +about.” + +We weighed and made sail. I placed the pilot in the starboard +hammock netting, he squatting at my feet. We had a fresh fair wind; +tide with us. + +At about 3 P.M. _Dido’s_ bow suddenly rose (with $2,000,000 of sycee +silver in her!). My two-foot Dollond came down like a hammer on the +pilot’s head. He fell overboard, his life saved by the hat I had given +him. I saw him swimming for the shore, like the toad that he was. + +My _Dido’s_ pace not checked. She rose to the obstacle--a sunken junk +full of stones--and descended the other side like a hunter. + +At sunset we came to at Hong Kong Roads. Not a drop of water could be +found in the well, and my boys were too anxious to get away to breathe +a word. + +General Sir Hugh Gough was one of a parting dinner given by Admiral to +Lord Saltoun. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 31.] + +Embarked Lord Saltoun at noon, Hope Grant and Cunynghame with him. Out +of sight of flag before daylight. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 5.] + +Current favouring us. Saltoun and Grant performing on the guitar and +violoncello of an evening. + +Like my new Lieutenant, Turnour; he has nerve for carrying sail. + +[Sidenote: Singapore, Feb. 10.] + +Anchored at Singapore. Found orders to proceed to Penang. Returned a +salute of 17 guns fired for Lord Saltoun. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 12.] + +There is a pleasure in a fast-sailing ship. Until arrival of _Dido_ +opium clippers had it all their own way. + +[Sidenote: Penang, Feb. 15.] + +Anchored off Penang at 7 A.M. Glad to find Commander-in-Chief, living +on the hill. Saltoun and staff came up after tiffin. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 16.] + +_Diana_ arrived with accounts of _Harlequin_, and _Wanderer’s_ boat +action with pirates. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 18.] + +_Wanderer_ arrived; too late to see my wounded friend Brooke or Henry +Seymour. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 19.] + +Dinner with Admiral Sir William Parker. Good ball and supper given by +kind residents. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 20.] + +Examined and passed Bobby Jenkins. If he has an opportunity he will +distinguish himself. After tiffin with Admiral, re-embarked passengers. +Left my China boy, Chopsticks, at school in Penang, and sailed. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 22.] + +Saltoun with gout. Nothing puts him out of temper though. Thermometer +84°. Grant training the small band into fairly good play. + +[Sidenote: March 5.] + +During a calm D’Aeth and Turnour dived under ship’s bottom to see if +any part of false keel had been disturbed; nothing perceptible. + +[Sidenote: Calcutta, March 7.] + +The very small puppy Smut killed six large rats under gunroom skylight. +Made the Sandheads light-vessel at 11 P.M. + +[Sidenote: March 8.] + +Got a gentleman pilot on board at 2 A.M.--a Mr. Perie; he marked our +lead-lines to inches. + +[Sidenote: March 9.] + +Got up to-day as far as Hooghly Reach, forty miles from Calcutta. +Cunynghame and Gemmell went up at midnight in cutter. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 11.] + +Started with tide at 2 A.M. in gig with Saltoun, arriving at +Calcutta at six (thirty miles). Put up at Spence’s; dinner with the +Governor-General, Lord Ellenborough. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 12.] + +Established a buggy and made calls. Dinner and dance at Government +House. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 13.] + +Breakfast with my old friend Engledene, who had been with me in the +_Tweed_. Landed the sycee silver. Lord Saltoun giving a parting dinner +to the “Didos.” + +[Sidenote: Mar. 14.] + +Woodhead and Co. will be astonished. Sent by mail £500. + +Grand ball given by Governor-General. Splendid sight. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 15.] + +Up at daylight to accompany Lord Saltoun to steamer. Larpent took me +with him to the Tent Club. Sent horses and traps in the morning. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 16.] + +Up at daylight. Enjoy the noble sport of hog-hunting. Tiffined and +slept in the middle of the day, and went at it again in the evening. It +is indeed a noble sport. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 17.] + +Sunday.--Went out again, but not without some qualms of conscience as +to the day, which, however, vanished as I blooded my first spear in +a young boar, after a chase of a couple of miles; grand and exciting +sport. + +Returned with Larpent to Calcutta. Found mail letters on my table. +Quiet dinner with Hope Grant prior to his departure up-country. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 19.] + +Drove Horton down Garden Reach. Called on Judges. Dinner with 10th +Regiment. Ball at Mrs. Cameron’s. Fifteenth birthday of her handsome +girl, Pattie. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 20.] + +Weather increasing in heat. Dined with Sir Lawrence, cousin to Sir +Robert Peel--a princely fellow; large party; excellent dinner. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 21.] + +Up at daylight to inspect the arsenal and _Phlegethon_. Visited +Deputy-Governor, Mr. Bird. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 22.] + +Overland mail arrived during the night, bringing news of Horton’s +promotion. A more deserving step has never been bestowed. + +Went over the Mint. _Tête-à-tête_ dinner with a Mr. Grant, a +scientific, good old boy with powerful telescope. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 23.] + +Up at daylight to have a further inspection of the dockyard and +steamers. Went with Larpent in a boat; as good a dinner as ever I +tasted at Mr. Maddock’s club afterwards. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 26.] + +Admiral arriving at 4 P.M. _Dido_ manned yards and returned the fort’s +salute. He established at Government House, Horton and I dined at Sir +Henry Seton’s. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 27.] + +Admiral at Barrackpore. Dined at the Bengal Club; capital dinner. +Barber and Welford pleasant companions. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 28.] + +At daylight with Tom Pitts to join hog-hunting-party; new ground. Sport +not much; breakfast excellent. Dined with Mr. Brachan. Theatre in +evening. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 29.] + +Rowed old Richards about in my gig. Tiffined with Lord Ellenborough. +Dinner with Mr. Robison. Finished the evening, Horton and I, with +Larpent. + +Blue at the fore hoisted on board my _Dido_. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 30.] + +Visiting with Wilford. Dinner with Colonel Forbes. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 31.] + +Took Partridge on shore with me to breakfast, and passed a quiet day at +Sir Lawrence Peel’s. + +[Sidenote: April 3.] + +To tiffin with Wilson at the Cannon Foundry. Beautiful order. Went to a +grand dinner given by the Artillery at Dum-Dum to the Admiral. + +[Sidenote: April 4.] + +Sun broiling hot. Went on board in the middle of the day. Tiffin with +Gillander and Gladstone. With young Larpent to the Tent Club. Got a +fall on the hard road, horse rolling over; such a brute! + +[Sidenote: April 5.] + +Up at daylight, hog-hunting; good sport. Well mounted this time by Tom +Pitts. Slept, tiffined, and read in heat of the day. At 4 P.M. hunted +again, and finished the evening with a jolly good dinner. + +[Sidenote: April 6.] + +Two capital hunts after hog. Got a second spear with Mr. Brachan. Rode +home in the evening, twenty-two miles, Tom Pitts having forgotten to +send buggy. Large dinner at Government House. + +[Sidenote: April 8.] + +Visited General Gilbert, a really good sporting family. Dinner at the +Hay-Camerons’. + +[Sidenote: April 9.] + +Sailing orders made out and pilot ordered. Tiffined with Lancelot Dent +of China. To dinner with Platt’s pretty daughters. Don’t think much of +his picture of “The Signing of the Treaty at Nanking.” + +[Sidenote: April 10.] + +The Platt ladies visited my _Dido_, and stayed so late I had little +time to dress for dinner. Hurried off in my buggy to Mr. Lawrence +Peel’s at Garden Reach. Sir William Parker also dining. + +The road inside the compound was flat and winding, lit on either side +by cocoanut-oil lamps, mounted on poles just level with my eyes, which +prevented my seeing obstacles in the way. The syce was seated on the +step as usual. All at once I found myself on my head, with the buggy +on top of me. Horse and shafts had disappeared. Being not far from the +house, I joined the Admiral as he left his carriage. I was supposed to +be part of his staff. + +After dinner, when Sir William inquired how I had come out, I told him, +and was kindly given a lift back. + +[Sidenote: April 13.] + +Progress not much in tow of small steamer against fresh breeze, to say +nothing of the dirt received from ditto. Ten lakhs on board though. + +[Sidenote: April 14.] + +Sunday.--In pilot’s hands. When abreast of Diamond Harbour, Admiral +came up in a steamer. Went on board to dine, and then took leave. + +[Sidenote: May 3.] + +Pulo Penang in sight at daybreak. A squall took us the last eighteen +miles in an hour and a half. + +[Sidenote: May 6.] + +Niceish breeze. Passed the Sands and several sail. No time to go into +Malacca. Plucky Smut unwilling to face a booby bird in single combat. + +The poor dog got his tail under the truck of a gun-carriage, and made +“plenty noise.” + +[Sidenote: May 9.] + +Weighed early for Singapore Roads. Anchored. Found French corvette +_Sabine_ and an American frigate _St. Louis_. + +[Sidenote: May 10.] + +Returned visits. _Tête-à-tête_ dinner with George Hastings. + +[Sidenote: May 14.] + +Party on board to dinner--some of them by the head!--Brooke, French +Captain, Napier, Elliot, etc. + +[Sidenote: May 15.] + +Sailed at daylight. Beat _Harlequin_, she taking Brooke to Sarawak. + +Again running up the China Sea. + +[Sidenote: May 22.] + +Made the Bombay reef at sunset: nasty-looking place on a dark night. + +[Sidenote: May 23.] + +2.30 A.M.--Struck hard on a rock twice, all sail set. No one can tell, +but those who try it, the painful, sickening sensation it causes. It +was supposed to be a straggler from the Lincoln shoal. No apparent +damage. + +Symptoms of north-east monsoon having just given in. Came up with the +_Victoria_ barque, that had started ten days before us from Singapore. + +[Sidenote: Hong Kong, May 26.] + +Anchored at 7 A.M. in Hong Kong, happy to find flag absent. Dined with +Caine. + +[Sidenote: May 27.] + +Preparing my _Dido_ for facing the south-west monsoon. Dinner with +Charlie Graham. Punch, and porter cup; venison from Blenheim rotten. +Jolly party though. + +[Sidenote: May 28.] + +American corvette _St. Louis_ arrived, we having beaten her four days. +Dined with Caine to meet Sir Henry Pottinger. + +[Sidenote: May 31.] + +Visited old Michael Quin, laid up. + +[Sidenote: June 1.] + +_Serpent_ off in a hurry, afraid of detention. Dined with the General +(Sir Hugh Gough) to meet French Commodore and officers. Put up at +Crawford Kerr’s. + +[Sidenote: June 15.] + +A gallop with Synge. Dined with Caine, Sir Henry Pottinger and +Rear-Admiral meeting them. Slow, with humbug. + +[Sidenote: June 17.] + +Grand survey of _Dido’s_ bottom by warrant officers expecting +promotion. Report: “Much injured along the keel.” + +[Sidenote: June 19.] + +Weighed at daylight. Did not lose sight of the blue at the mizzen +until noon. Ran into the mud opposite Macao at 9 P.M. Went on shore to +Drummond’s. + +[Sidenote: June 21.] + +Made sail for Singapore. + +[Sidenote: July 10.] + +Again in the free and open sea. A slashing breeze, such as my +_Dido_ delights in. Unable to do much, owing to rotten ropes and +sails--unseamanlike and mistaken ideas of economy. + +[Sidenote: July 16.] + +Brooke’s coast in sight, Tanjong Datu. _Dido_ looking straight for +Singapore. + +[Sidenote: July 17.] + +Ran through the beautiful and picturesque Tambelan Islands, too +numerous to count. Sent a boat on shore, and exchanged with the natives +biscuit for green cocoanut. + +[Sidenote: July 18.] + +Arrived late at Singapore. + +[Sidenote: July 19.] + +_Cambrian_, 36, in the roads with broad pennant of Henry D. Chads. +Dined with Belcher, at Captain’s House, he having been shot through +both thighs in a scrimmage with pirates. + +[Sidenote: July 20.] + +On board to see Chads off. A good fellow. + +[Sidenote: July 22.] + +Dined with Napier. News from Brooke. _Dido_ wanted. + +Transacted business as Senior Naval Officer in the Straits. Jolly +dinner-party with W. H. Read. George Hastings, of _Harlequin_, a +capital fellow. + +[Sidenote: July 23.] + +Hogg, of Fort William, and friends to dine. Amateur theatricals in the +evening--“The Merchant of Venice.” Read performed. Supped with Portia! + +[Sidenote: July 24.] + +We dined with Belcher. Noisy party on some good white port. Started +_Phlegethon_ for Borneo. + +[Sidenote: July 25.] + +Weighed at daylight. + +[Sidenote: July 28.] + +Off Brooke’s province in Borneo. Sent pinnace in by western entrance. + +[Sidenote: July 29.] + +At sunset found steamer off the entrance of the river. Got on board; +_Dido_ to follow up to Kuching, where I found Brooke at three o’clock +in the middle watch. Hearty welcome. + +[Sidenote: July 30.] + +Kuching is to be called Sarawak; much improved. Some additional +companions; the population considerably increased. Brooke in a new and +better house; a much improved and prettier site. + +[Sidenote: July 31.] + +_Dido_ moving up. Native war-boats collecting to assist in the intended +attack on Seriff Sahib. While at a midnight council with Rajah Muda +Hassim, a report was brought me that _Dido_ was high and dry. While +warping up the Sarawak River the previous evening she came to an anchor +at sunset, in a narrow passage short of the town. I had cautioned the +Master that the flood came up with a rush, and recommended additional +hawsers from the port quarter to be secured to the larger trees on +shore. I had been up before, but the Master was older than I was, +and as I had not given a positive order, I suppose he did not see the +necessity. He was a good fellow, and fully saw where he was wrong. When +I got there _Dido_ was on her beam ends--royal yards across. Nothing +could be done till the rise of the tide. I took this opportunity +for ascertaining the truth of the warrant officers’ report to the +Commander-in-Chief on 17th June last. _Dido’s_ keel was uninjured, +although some bits of copper had been torn off her bottom. + +I took charge and went on the forecastle, where foothold was difficult. +Outside on the starboard bow lay the gun that had been hoisted outside, +but as it still clung to the ship, the standing part of the tackle was +left in the rigging, with the fall on the forecastle. It was on the +edge of this fall that I had got my footing. The tide had risen over +the port hammock netting; and just as I was giving the order to cut +away, the forecastle gun slipped overboard, taking the tackle with +it, on the fall of which I was standing. It caused me to perform an +unwilling somersault in the air. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 1.] + +_Dido_ arrived at her old berth off Kuching, and saluted Rajah Muda +Hassim. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 2.] + +Visited neat and pretty bungalows lately built by Williamson and +Steward, the latter a Norfolk man. + + + + +INDEX + + + Abercorn, the Duke of, iii. 333 + + Accra, i. 214, 221, 232, 238, 242; iii. 72 + + Adam, General Sir Frederick, i. 148 + Sir Charles, ii. 46 + + Adeane, Lieutenant, iii. 55 + + Adelaide, Queen, i. 121, 160, 246 + + Aden, iii. 118, 119 + + Admiralty Islands, ii. 150 + + _Adventure_, iii. 174, 180 + + _Africa_, i. 7, 12, 13 + + Agar-Ellis, Miss, ii. 201 + + Ailesbury, Lady, iii. 322 + + Ainos, the, iii. 199 + + Aitkin, Lieutenant, iii. 235 + + _Alabama_, iii. 83 + + Åland Islands, ii. 232 + + Albany, ii. 142 + + _Albatross_, ii. 81, 127 + + Albemarle, George, 3rd Earl, i. 59 + William Charles, 4th Earl, i. 4, 5, 7, 67, 102, 160, 248, 249, 251, + 252, 253, 254, 256; ii. 41, 43, 46, 58 + Augustus Frederick, 5th Earl; _see_ Keppel + George Thomas, 6th Earl; _see_ Keppel + Lord, i. 14 + + Albert of Saxe-Coburg, Prince Consort, i. 250, 251; ii. 313, 324; + iii. 38, 39, 78, 80 + + Alcock, Sir Rutherford, iii. 143, 171, 192, 194, 236, 237, 259 + + Alexandria, i. 170, 178; iii. 18, 117 + + Alfred, Prince; _see_ Edinburgh, Duke of + + _Algerine_, iii. 224 + + Algoa Bay, iii. 46 + + Ali, Pangeran Oman, ii. 84 + + Ali, Patingi, ii. 7; iii. 125 + + Alicante, i. 187, 188, 190 + + Allen, R. C., ii. 3 + + _Alligator_, ii. 337; iii. 2, 8 + + Allison, William, ii. 160 + + Alma, the, ii. 240 + + Amaral, Don Joao Maria Farriera do, ii. 116, 121 + + _Amazon_, ii. 115 + + Amboyna, ii. 147 + + _America_ yacht, ii. 203 + + Amoor River, iii. 192, 210 + + Amoy, iii. 138, 139, 220 + + _Amphion_, ii. 47, 234 + + Amping, iii. 224 + + Andover, Lord and Lady, i. 7, 255 + + Andrade, Count Manuel Carvalho Pas de, i. 40, 41, 42 + + Anjer, ii. 129 + + Anson, Eliza, Lady Waterpark, i. 8, 12 + Thomas, i. 7, 163 + Hon. William, i. 8, 22 + + Armitage, Whaley, i. 85, 87, 264, 273 + + Ascension, i. 90, 243, 244; iii. 69 + + Ashantis, the, i. 214, 218, 222 + + Astley, Sir Jacob, i. 14 + + Auckland, Lord, ii. 44, 46 + + Auckland, N.Z., ii. 171 + + _Auckland_, ii. 77, 79 + + _Aurora_, i. 14, 43, 44, 61 + + Australia, ii. 132, 134, 152 + + _Australia_, ii. 128, 129 + + + Bahia; _see_ San Salvador + + Baker, Sir Samuel, iii. 320 + Admiral Sir Thomas, i. 123 + + Balaclava, ii. 252, 255, 258, 262 + + Balambangan, ii. 94, 127 + + Balfour, Lieutenant-Colonel, i. 81 + + Bali Island, ii. 131 + + Baltic, the, ii. 220 + + Banda Islands, ii. 144, 146 + + Bankok, iii. 229 + + Bannerman, Mr., i. 221, 243 + + Barbadoes, i. 56, 108 + + Barcelona, i. 188, 189, 191, 195-197, 200 + + Baring, Admiral Sir Francis, ii. 201 + + Barnard, General, ii. 246, 279 + + Barösund, ii. 226 + + Barrington, Commander Hon. George, i. 51 + + Barton, A., ii. 3 + + _Basilisk_, iii. 192 + + Batang Lupar River, i. 311; ii. 2 + + Batavia, i. 147, 216; ii. 129, 130, 131 + + Bathurst, iii. 72 + + Bay of Islands, N.Z., ii. 171 + + Beatrice, H.R.H. Princess, iii. 36 + + Beaufort, Sir Francis, ii. 201 + + Bedford, Mr. D. B., i. 136, 139 + + Beefsteak Club, the, i. 96, 97 + + Beith, R., surgeon, ii. 3 + + Belcher, Captain Sir Edward, ii. 18 + + Belem, ii. 213 + + Bell, Admiral, iii. 177 + + _Belleisle_, i. 261, 264, 269, 272, 275, 277 + + _Bellerophon_, i. 200 + + Bentinck, Lord George, ii. 326; iii. 101, 109; + _see_ Cavendish-Bentinck + + Beresford, Lord James, i. 187 + Admiral Sir John de la Poer, i. 121 + + Berkeley, Admiral Hon. Sir George, i. 163 + Lady Georgina Mary, i. 163 + Admiral Sir Maurice, ii. 244; iii. 29 + + Bessani; _see_ Grand Bessani + + “Bishop of Bond Street, the,” ii. 70 + + _Bittern_, iii. 1 + + Black Sea, ii. 251 + + Bladen-Capel, Admiral Hon. Sir T., ii. 199 + + Blake, Lieutenant, i. 42, 44 + Colonel, i. 75, 84, 88 + + Blakiston, Captain, iii. 238 + + Blanckley, Commander Edward, i. 123 + + Bogue Forts, ii. 54 + + Bomarsund, ii. 231, 233, 238 + + Bombay, iii. 14 + + Bonard, Commodore, ii. 177 + + Bonham, George, i. 147, 263, 288 + + Borneo, i. 290, 292; ii. 9; iii. 127 + + Botany Bay, ii. 153, 164 + + Boto Fogo, i. 36 + + Bouchier, Captain, i. 273, 278 + + _Bouncer_, iii. 234 + + Bourbon, i. 85 + + Bouverie, Admiral Hon. Duncombe, i. 244 + + Bowles, Admiral, iii. 281 + + Bowyear, Captain George Leger, ii. 57, 58, 59, 158, 177 + + Boxer, Admiral, ii. 251, 262 + + Boyd, Benjamin, ii. 157 + + Bozin, Prince, iii. 180, 181 + + Bradshaw, Commander Manser, ii. 227 + + Braybroke, Lord and Lady, i. 162 + + _Brazen_, i. 41, 42, 97 + + Bremer, Captain Sir J. G., ii. 134 + + Brierly, Sir Oswald, ii. 156, 157, 182, 203, 210 + + Briggs, Admiral Sir Thomas, i. 168 + + _Brisk_, iii. 45 + + Brooke, Brooke, iii. 11 + Rajah, i. 288-296, 298, 299, 302, 306, 308, 312, 313, 317, 319, + 333, 339; ii. 1, 3, 6, 21, 23, 30, 43, 44, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, + 62, 63, 65, 70, 76, 82, 84, 85, 86, 87, 90-92, 103, 111, 127, + 202, 322, 334; iii. 11, 13, 29, 96, 115, 123, 220 + + Brooker, Commander, iii. 194, 260 + + Brougham, Henry (Lord High Chancellor), i. 97 + Lord, i. 11, 177 + + Brougham and Vaux, Lady, iii. 25 + + Broughton, Lord, i. 97 + + Browne, Sir Samuel, ii. 45 + + Brunei, ii. 45, 82; iii. 126 + + Buccleuch, Duchess of, iii. 326 + + Buckland, Francis Trevelyan, iii. 82 + + Buckley, Commander, V.C., iii. 40 + + Budrudeen, Pangeran, i. 306; ii. 1, 42, 84 + + Buffalo River, iii. 46 + + Buffon Bay, i. 209, 210 + + Bulkeley, Sir Richard, i. 93, 98; ii. 42 + + Bullen, Admiral Sir Charles, ii. 55 + + Bulman, Mr., i. 257, 262, 263 + + Bunting, ii. 21 + + Buonaparte; _see_ Napoleon + + Burdett, Sir Francis, i. 8, 9, 14 + + Burdett-Coutts, Miss, iii. 115, 124 + + Burlton, Lieutenant, iii. 56 + + Burnaby, Mr., ii. 121, 122 + + Burton, Judge, and Mrs., i. 71 + + Bury, Viscount, i. 254 + + Bush, Commander, iii. 221 + Mr., ii. 116 + + Butterworth, Colonel, ii. 24, 76 + + Byng, H., ii. 48 + + Byron, Captain Lord, i. 43 + + + Cabrera, General, i. 188 + + Cagayan Sulu, ii. 97, 109, 111 + + Cairo, iii. 18 + + Calcutta, i. 150, 152, 333, 334 + + _Calcutta_, iii. 3 + + Calderon, Don, i. 195 + + _Caledonia_, i. 168, 170, 200 + + Calverley, S., ii. 3 + + _Cambrian_, ii. 46 + + Cambridge, H.R.H. Duke of, i. 251; ii. 249; iii. 25, 322 + + Campbell, Colonel Sir Colin, i. 262, 269, 272; ii. 80, 82, 252, 301 + Admiral Sir Patrick, C.B., i. 55, 244 + + Canning, George, i. 25 + + _Canopus_, i. 169, 170, 171, 176 + + Canrobert, Marshal, ii. 267 + + Canton, i. 281, 325; ii. 54; iii. 132, 231 + River, ii. 15; iii. 8 + + Cape Coast, i. 214, 216, 217, 221 + + Cape de Verd Islands, i. 33, 71 + + Cape of Good Hope, i. 68, 69, 71, 72, 77, 87, 159, 202, 262 + + Cape Town, iii. 67 + + Caroline, Queen, i. 8 + + Carteret, Captain, ii. 152 + + Carthagena, i. 59, 198 + + Casher, E., ii. 55, 199 + + Castries Bay, iii. 214 + + Cavendish-Bentinck, Lord William, i. 84, 153 + + Cavite, i. 331; ii. 125 + + Celebes Islands, ii. 108 + + Ceram Islands, ii. 146 + + Chads, Commodore Henry D., i. 338, 339 + + Challier, Commodore, iii. 274 + + Charlotte, Princess, i. 6 + + Chefoo, iii. 172, 192, 264 + + Chernaze, ii. 263 + + Chersonese; _see_ Khersonese + + Chesterfield, Lord, iii. 328 + + Chiang Kiang-Fu, i. 270, 271 + + _Childers_, i. 68, 164, 165, 174, 175, 193, 198, 244, 272, 274 + + Chin-kiang, iii. 221, 238 + + Christmas Island, ii. 75 + + Church, Thomas, ii. 77 + + Churchill, Captain Lord John, i. 66, 73, 77, 82, 110, 249, 280 + + Chusan, i. 266, 277 + + Ciervo Island, ii. 188 + + Clarence, William, Duke of, i. 68 + + Clarendon, Lord, iii. 265 + + Clark, John, surgeon, ii. 143 + + Clifford, Sir Augustus, i. 67, 84 + Lady de, i. 52 + + _Clio_, i. 190, 191, 272 + + Clyde, Lord; _see_ Campbell, Sir Colin + + Coaker, Jonas, i. 69, 83, 165, 249; ii. 53 + + Coburg Peninsula, ii. 134, 136 + + Cochrane, Hon. A. J., i. 27 + Admiral Sir Thomas; _see_ Dundonald (“Young”), iii. 4 + + _Cockchafer_, iii. 187, 233 + + Codrington, Admiral Sir Edward, i. 68 + Colonel, ii. 46 + + Coghlan, Colonel, iii. 118 + + Coke, Edward, ii. 41, 201 + Henry (“Wenny”), i. 249, 264; ii. 256, 281; iii. 19 + Thomas William (Earl of Leicester), i. 7, 8, 14, 15, 47, 278 + + Cole, General Sir Lowry, i. 77, 78, 81, 82, 83 + Lady Frances, i. 78 + + Collier, Captain Sir Francis, i. 108, 109, 112, 249, 251; ii. 47, 82, + 128 + + Collingwood, Admiral, i. 13 + + _Colombo_, ii. 270 + + Colonna, the Marquis de, i. 195 + + _Colossus_, ii. 312 + + _Columbine_, i. 170, 176, 180, 231, 232, 278; ii. 116 + + Colville, Admiral Lord, i. 29, 48 + Sir Charles, i. 77, 85, 87 + + Comba Island, ii. 132 + + Comber, Lieutenant Henry W., ii. 3, 5, 45, 58, 74, 79, 125, 128 + + Commerell, Admiral of the Fleet Sir J. E., ii. 73 + + Conolly, Mr., iii. 143, 192 + + Constantinople, i. 175, 176; ii. 251, 312 + + Conti, General, i. 189 + + Cook, Captain, ii. 153 + + Cooke, T. P., i. 97, 105 + + Cook’s Straits, ii. 169 + + Cork, i. 29, 30, 48, 49 + + _Cormorant_, ii. 199; iii. 139 + + _Cornwallis_, i. 264, 269, 272, 273, 331 + + Corromanli, Ali, i. 172 + Youssuf, i. 171 + + Corry, Admiral Sir A. Lowry, ii. 210, 224, 231 + + Corvé Bay, iii. 173, 191 + + Cotton, Lieutenant Alexander, i. 101, 105 + + Courtenay, Captain, iii. 198 + + Cracroft, Commander Peter, ii. 208 + + Creighton, Captain, iii. 187 + + Crimea, the, ii. 218, 244 + + Croker, Rt. Hon. John Wilson, i. 105 + + Crosbie, Catherine; _see_ Lady Keppel + General Sir John, i. 92, 246, 248, 249, 250, 251, 253, 255; ii. 27 + “Dob,” iii. 145 + Lieutenant John, i. 89, 91, 92, 251 + William, ii. 55 + + _Cumberland_, ii. 235; iii. 115 + + Cumming, Captain Arthur, iii. 76 + + _Cygnet_, ii. 40 + + + D’Aeth, E. H. H., i. 276; ii. 3, 6, 289 + + Dalarö Channel, ii. 224 + + Dalkeith, Lord, iii. 326 + + Daniell, Commander, ii. 127 + + Darby, G. S., ii. 3 + + Dardanelles, the, i. 176; ii. 249 + + _Dauntless_, ii. 230, 231 + + Davis, Sir John, ii. 111 + + de Grey, Lord, iii. 322 + + de Horsey, Captain Algernon, iii. 44, 45, 55 + + Delagoa Bay, iii. 46 + + De Lesseps, M. Ferdinand, iii. 118 + + Delmé, George, i. 81 + + Denison, Sir William, ii. 158, 163 + + Dent, John, and Co., iii. 143 + + Deschênes, Admiral A. F. Parseval, ii. 226-228 + + D’Eyncourt, Captain, ii. 73 + + _Dido_, i. 255, 256, 257, 262, 270, 272, 277, 319, 326, 332, 340; ii. + 1, 29, 30 + + Digby, Lord, i. 12 + Edward, i. 12, 98 + Admiral Sir Henry, i. 7, 12, 13, 14; ii. 219 + Admiral Hon. R., i. 12 + + D’Israeli, Isaac, iii. 230 + + Dixcove, i. 213-215 + + D’Orsay, Count, i. 163. + + Douglas, Bloomfield, i. 302, 304 + + Dover, Lord, ii. 201 + + Drake, Sir Frederick, ii. 185 + + Droxford, i. 249, 253; ii. 28 + + Drummond, Edward, ii. 26 + + Duè, iii. 215 + + Dundas, Hon. Admiral George, i. 97, 119 + Admiral J. W. Deans, ii. 47, 57, 128, 201 + Captain Richard Deans, i. 55, 244 + + Dundee, iii. 111 + + Dundonald, Earl, i. 14, 36, 38, 39-42, 163, 256, 278, 280, 322, 331; + ii. 68, 212 + + Dunkin, Captain Thomas, i. 77 + + _Dupleix_, iii. 186, 187, 227 + + Dupplin, Lord, iii. 323 + + + Eager, John, ii. 7 + + Eastern Archipelago, ii. 115 + + Eastern Archipelago Company, ii. 63, 127 + + East London, Port of, iii. 46 + + Eden, Commander Henry, ii. 47 + + Edinburgh, H.R.H. the Duke of, iii. 40, 278, 284-315 + + _Edinburgh_, i. 169, 170 + + Elgin, Lord, iii. 10, 241 + + Ellesmere, Lord, ii. 61, 65, 191 + + Ellice, Robert, ii. 116 + + Ellis, Commander Henry, i. 127 + + Ellis and Co., iii. 223 + + Elphinstone, Lord, iii. 14 + + Emhammud, i. 172 + + Emmanuel, Emmanuel, iii. 323 + + Emot, Captain, iii. 177 + + _Endymion_, i. 168, 180, 183, 184, 266, 274, 278 + + Enslie, Consul, iii. 298 + + Erskine, Captain J. E., ii. 164 + + Esche, Mr., iii. 194, 202 + + _Espoir_, i. 68, 69, 77, 86 + + Essington, Port, ii. 132, 134, 144 + + Etholin, Captain, ii. 302; iii. 218 + + Eupatoria, ii. 261 + + Europa Island, iii. 50 + + Eyre, Captain, i. 74, 260 + + Eyres, Captain Henry, i. 242, 278 + + + Fairfax-Moresby, Admiral, ii. 195 + + Farquhar, Captain, ii. 81, 127 + + Fatshan Creek, iii. 2 + + Fernando Po, i. 223, 224 + + Ferraz, Captain-General Valentine, i. 187, 188, 225 + + Figueroa, Don Cayetano de, ii. 107 + + _Firebrand_, ii. 73 + + _Firm_, iii. 177 + + _Firmee_, iii. 9 + + Fitzroy, Colonel, i. 71, 72, 87 + Commander Arthur, ii. 153; iii. 70 + Captain Augustus, ii. 40, 153, 157, 303 + Sir Charles, ii. 40, 153, 155, 164 + George, ii. 40, 153, 157; iii. 192, 205 + Mary, ii. 40, 153 + + Flowers, Consul, iii. 301 + + Foley, St. George, ii. 310 + Sir George, iii. 9 + + Foochow, iii. 236 + + Ford, Captain, i. 148 + + Formosa, iii. 222, 223 + + _Forte_, iii. 39, 41, 65, 77 + + Fukevitche, Captain, iii. 206 + + Funchal Roads, i. 30; ii. 70, 214; iii. 41 + + Furnhjelm, Admiral Jean, iii. 194, 195, 206, 208, 212 + + _Fury_, ii. 115, 128 + + + Gage, Admiral Sir William Hall, i. 55, 81, 184; ii. 52 + + _Galatea_, i. 100, 101, 103, 105; iii. 284, 299, 302 + + Galle; _see_ Point de Galle + + Gambia River, iii. 71 + + Garibaldi, iii. 83 + + Garnier, George, i. 16, 19 + Henry, i. 148, 159 + Lieutenant Keppel, iii. 190, 231 + Thomas (Dean), i. 15, 16, 25, 103 + Thomas, iii. 324 + William, i. 15 + + _Gazelle_, ii. 185, 187 + + Geisinger, Commodore, ii. 116 + + George IV., King, i. 74, 102 + + Gibraltar, i. 168, 184, 189, 194, 196, 200, 201; ii. 217, 248 + + Gibson, Consul, iii. 224, 226 + + Gilford, Lieutenant Lord, iii. 1, 20 + + Glanville, Mr., i. 74, 85, 86, 103, 104 + + Gleichen, Count, iii. 25 + + Goldsmith, Captain George, i. 68, 165, 174, 203, 206, 208, 222, 249; + ii. 68 + + Goodwood, ii. 55 + + Gordon, Sir James, ii. 42, 57 + General C. G., iii. 245 + + Goschen, Mr., iii. 326 + + Gough, General Sir Hugh, i. 264, 266, 272, 273 + + Gouldisborough, iii. 182 + + Gower, Consul, iii. 299 + + Graham, Captain Charles, i. 331; ii. 59 + Sir James, i. 119, 164; ii. 210, 256 + Lieutenant Stanley, ii. 230; iii. 1, 3 + + Grancy, Comte G. F. E. de, iii. 227 + + Grand Bessani, i. 212 + + Grant, Captain James Augustus, iii. 41, 46 + Charles, iii. 11 + Lieutenant Hope, i. 98, 332, 333 + + Greville, Commander Henry F., i. 68, 69, 77 + + Grey, Admiral Sir Frederick, i. 266, 273, 278; ii. 216, 251; iii. 45, + 78 + Sir George, iii. 40, 41, 45, 78, 79 + Captain Hon. Sir George, i. 22 + Captain Hon. George, i. 22, 201; ii. 249 + + Gurdon, Lieutenant, iii. 224, 225, 226 + + Guyamas, ii. 190, 191 + + Gye, Frederick, iii. 25 + Lieutenant Herbert, iii. 235 + + + Haddington, Lord, ii. 30, 31 + + Hakodadi, iii. 159, 161, 219 + + Hall, Captain J., i. 271, 278; iii. 1 + + Halstead, Admiral Sir Lawrence, i. 57 + + Hamilton, Lord Claud, iii. 327 + Kerr Baillie, i. 82 + + Hankow, iii. 243, 249 + + Hara-Kari, ceremony of the, iii. 182 + + Hardinge, Lieutenant-Colonel, i. 81 + + Hardy, Sir Thomas, i. 69, 119, 164 + + _Harlequin_, i. 60, 61, 184, 197, 200, 264, 274, 322, 333 + + Harris, Commander Sir W., ii. 68; iii. 194 + + _Hartford_, iii. 183 + + Hartington, Lord, iii. 322 + + Harvey, Admiral Edward, iii. 40 + + Hastie, ii. 47 + + _Hastings_, ii. 128 + + Hathorn, John, i. 43, 44 + + Havana, i. 59, 60, 64, 65, 118 + + Hawley, Sir Joseph, i. 248, 249 + Lady; _see_ Sara Crosbie + + Hay, Commander John Dalrymple, ii. 116 + + Hayti, i. 61 + + Heki Hone, ii. 171 + + Henderson, Commander Thomas, i. 231, 232 + + Heneage, Admiral, i. 102 + Captain Algernon C. F., iii. 70, 115, 222, 223, 316 + + Henessey, Pope, iii. 230 + + Herbert, Sir Thomas, i. 264 + + Hewitt, Captain, iii. 192, 283 + + Hickley, Captain, iii. 174 + + _Highflyer_, iii. 8 + + Hill, Colonel, i. 66 + Dr., iii. 192, 231 + Captain Sir John, i. 107, 110, 255, 257, 258 + Lieutenant, i. 228, 232 + Lady Georgina; _see_ Keppel + + Hilliers, General Barraguay d’, ii. 231 + + Hillyar, Lady, ii. 68 + + _Hind_, i. 168, 176, 180, 200 + + Hiogo, iii. 173, 174, 180, 187, 188 + + Hirado Strait, iii. 194 + + Hislop, James, i. 71 + + Hobart Town, ii. 157, 161 + + Hobhouse, Sir John Cam, i. 97; ii. 47 + + Hockham, ii. 33, 37, 38, 49, 61 + + Hodgson, General, iii. 119 + + Hogarth, i. 96 + + Holkham, i. 8, 15, 161, 248, 251; iii. 18 + + Holland, H.M. the Queen of, iii. 85 + Henry, Lord, i. 1 + + Holman, Joseph, i. 85 + + Holyoake, Mr., i. 126, 129 + + Home, Captain Sir Everard, i. 275, 276, 277 + + Honeywood, W. P., i. 97 + + Hong Kong, i. 264, 278, 280, 322, 325-327, 331, 337; ii. 113-115; + iii. 9, 113, 129, 172, 180, 186, 220, 231, 234, 311 + + _Hong-Kong_, iii. 1, 2, 4, 8 + + Hooghly River, i. 155 + + Hook, Theodore, i. 121 + + Hope, Captain, ii. 73 + + Hornby, Sir E., iii. 296 + James G. P., i. 22 + Admiral Sir Phipps, ii. 181, 195, 131 + + Horsey, Captain Algernon de, iii. 44, 45-55 + + Horton, Captain Frederick Wilmot, i. 274, 276, 294, 296, 297, + 312-316, 325; ii. 40, 256 + + Hoste, Admiral Sir William, i. 15, 22; ii. 42 + + Howard, Commander Hon. Edward, i. 199 + + Howden, Lord, ii. 73 + + Hughes, Colonel, i. 93 + + Hume, David, ii. 44, 63 + + Hunn, Captain Frederick, i. 25, 26, 33, 36, 55, 65, 168 + + Hunt, Captain James, i. 304; ii. 239 + + Huntingfield, Lord, iii. 323 + + Hussein, Seriff, ii. 95 + + Hutton, Lieutenant Frederick, i. 119, 124, 136, 157, 200 + + _Hydra_, ii. 65 + + + Ibbetson, Robert, i. 147 + + _Icarus_, iii. 170, 222 + + Ichaboa Island, iii. 68 + + Illanuns, the, i. 294 + + _Inconstant_, ii. 181 + + India, ii. 62 + + _Inflexible_, ii. 115 + + Ingestre, Captain Lord, i. 169, 176, 177, 187 + Lady Sarah, i. 187 + + Inglefield, Admiral, ii. 76 + + Inglis, Bishop J., i. 52, 53 + + Inkerman, ii. 259, 280 + + + Jaffer, Seriff, i. 311, 317; ii. 2, 19, 21 + + Jago, Commissary-General, i. 79 + + Java, ii. 131 + + Jenkins, Lieutenant Robert, i. 333; ii. 3 + + Jephson, Dr., i. 253 + + Jerdan, Mr., ii. 30, 62, 63 + + “John Company,” i. 133, 134 + + Johnson, C., ii. 3 + Lieutenant W. F., iii. 1 + + Johore, the Tumongong of, iii. 122 + + Joinville, Prince de, i. 201 + + Jones, Sir Harry, ii. 284 + + Jones, Commodore Oliver, iii. 129, 220 + + Jonos, the, iii. 165 + + + Kaga, Prince, iii. 169 + + Kalamanta Bay, i. 180 + + Kapiti Island, ii. 171 + + Karabonu, Cape, i. 168, 176 + + Karangan, ii. 16 + + Kazatch, ii. 262, 266 + + Kearney, Major, iii. 2 + + _Kearsage_, iii. 83 + + Kellett, Admiral Sir H., iii. 310 + + Kempt, General Sir James, i. 54 + + Kent, H.R.H. the Duchess of, iii. 36 + + KEPPEL, ADMIRAL OF THE FLEET SIR HENRY:-- + Birth, i. 1 + Christening, i. 1 + School-days, i. 2-5 + Choice of a career, i. 7 + Preparation for the Navy, i. 14 + Enters the Royal Naval College, Gosport, i. 16 + First voyage, i. 27 + Marries Catherine, daughter of Sir George Crosbie, i. 249 + Marries Jane Elizabeth West, iii. 80 + Appointments in H.M. Navy-- + Midshipman, i. 25 + Mate, i. 79 + Lieutenant, i. 86 + Commander, i. 158 + Commodore, ii. 322 + Admiral, iii. 15 + Ships:-- + _Childers_, i. 164 + _Colossus_, ii. 312 + _Cumberland_, iii. 115 + _Dido_, i. 255 + _Forte_, iii. 39 + _Galatea_, i. 100 + _Magicienne_, i. 119 + _Mæander_, ii. 58 + _Manilla_, iii. 143 + _Pearl_, iii. 135 + _Pelorus_, iii. 144 + _Princess Charlotte_, iii. 130, 172 + _Raleigh_, ii. 324 + _Rattler_, iii. 143 + _Rodney_, ii. 276; iii. 173 + _St. Jean d’Acre_, ii. 208 + _Tweed_, i. 25, 66 + Naval stations commanded by:-- + The Cape, iii. 39 + China, iii. 113 + Crimea, Naval Brigade, ii. 284 + Devonport, iii. 330 + S.E. America, iii. 71 + Straits Settlements, ii. 77 + Honours:-- + C.B., ii. 314 + K.C.B., iii. 15 + G.C.B., iii. 326 + D.C.L. Oxford, iii. 324-326 + + KEPPEL, Lady (Catherine Crosbie), i. 249, 251, 253; ii. 27, 56, 57, + 88, 202, 207, 208, 328; iii. 18, 35 + + KEPPEL, Lady (Jane West), iii. 80, 95, 114, 230 + Anne, i. 47, 67, 247, 249; ii. 23 + Augustus, Admiral Lord, i. 8, 59, 326 + Augustus Frederick, i. 254 + Captain Hon. Colin Richard, iii. 80, 95, 116, 230, 231, 273 + Rev. Edward, i. 67, 203; ii. 50; iii. 19 + Frances, i. 254 + George Thomas, i. 1, 5, 6, 85, 251, 253; ii. 59, 61 + Georgina, i. 66 + Leicester, ii. 61, 69 + Maria Walpole, iii. 98, 230, 275 + Mary, i. 1, 66, 93 + Sophia, i. 4 + Thomas Robert, i. 2, 4, 7, 22, 46, 47, 67, 81, 86; ii. 29, 45, 50, + 81 + William, General, i. 59 + family of, i. 7 + + KEPPEL; _see_ Albemarle + + Kertch, ii. 267, 270-272 + + Khersonese, ii. 258, 263 + + Khoulalonkorn, King, iii. 229 + + Kiel Harbour, ii. 240 + + King, Admiral Sir Durnford, ii. 60, 67 + Admiral George, ii. 276; iii. 113, 114, 121 + Captain Philip, ii. 134, 169 + + Kingsley, Charles, iii. 114 + + Kingston, Jamaica, i. 60 + + Kinmel, i. 93, 162 + + Kissang River, i. 135 + + Knollys, Sir Francis, iii. 323 + + Knox, Lieutenant Thomas Owen, i. 119, 120, 124 + + Kobe, iii. 298 + + Korbé; _see_ Corvé + + Korea, iii. 194 + + Kororareka (Russell), N.Z., ii. 171 + + Korsakof, General, iii. 195, 208 + + Kronstadt, ii. 230 + + Kuching; _see_ Sarawak + + Kung, the Prince of, iii. 226 + + + Labuan, ii. 30, 63, 76, 82, 87, 90, 125, 127; iii. 126, 230 + + Lagos, i. 238, 241, 242 + + Lahon, Cape, i. 210, 211 + + Lake, Admiral W. T., i. 54 + + Lambrick, Captain, ii. 144 + + Landon, Laetitia Elizabeth, i. 221 + + Lansdowne, Lord, ii. 59 + + Lante Bay, i. 170 + + _La Place_, iii. 162, 177 + + Lawrence, Captain, i. 182 + + Leicester, Earl of; _see_ Coke, Thomas William + Countess of; _see_ Hon. Anne Keppel + + Leighton, Vice-Chancellor, iii. 324 + + Leithbridge, Misses, ii. 55 + + Le Marchant, Major, i. 75 + + Lennard, Sir Thomas, ii. 45 + + Leopold, H.R.H. Prince, i. 53; iii. 36 + + Lescanca, Brigadier, i. 189 + + Lesseps, Ferdinand de, iii. 118 + + _Leven_, iii. 234 + + Lexham Hall, i. 7 + + Lichfield, Thomas, Lord, i. 7, 162 + + Li Hung Chang, iii. 245 + + Lima, General, i. 41 + + Linga River, ii. 2, 19 + + Lingghi River, i. 135 + + Linn, Mandarin, i. 264 + + Lisbon, i. 103, 184 + + Lissa, i. 22 + + Livingstone, Dr. David, iii. 67 + + Lloyd, Mr., i. 125 + Lieutenant, iii. 235 + + Loch, Captain Granville, i. 260, 261, 262, 263, 270, 272 + + Lockyer, Commander Nicholas, C.B., i. 167; ii. 116 + + _London_, iii. 110 + + Loring, Captain John Wentworth, i. 16, 17 + + Louis Philippe, King, ii. 76 + + Louise, H.R.H. Princess, iii. 38 + + Low, Hugh, ii. 82, 126, 230 + + Lowe, Robert, iii. 325 + + Lukin, Admiral, i. 7, 14 + + Lupar River, ii. 6 + + Lushington, Rt. Hon. Stephen, i. 148 + + Lyall, Sir Charles, ii. 215 + + Lyemoon Pass, iii. 182 + + Lynedoch, Lord, i. 54 + + Lyons, Admiral Sir Edmund, ii. 211, 256, 267 + + + Macao, i. 264, 327; ii. 120; iii. 1, 8, 9, 130, 222 + + M‘Arthur, Captain, ii. 132, 144 + + M‘Clure, Sir Robert, iii. 8 + + Macdonald, Sir James, i. 4; iii. 323 + + MacDonnell, Sir Richard, iii. 129, 231 + + Mackenzie, Consul, i. 61 + + Macota, ii. 20 + + _Madagascar_, i. 165, 170 + + Madeira; _see_ Funchal Roads + + Madras, i. 133, 134, 148, 150, 157, 158 + + Madrid, i. 186 + + Madura, ii. 131 + + _Mæander_, ii. 58, 60, 81, 115, 126, 130, 155, 200, 201 + + Magellan, Straits of, ii. 195-199 + + _Magicienne_, i. 118, 119, 133, 153, 200 + + Magin, Captain, iii. 1 + + Mahé, Port, iii. 63 + + Mahébourg, iii. 63 + + Maitland, Admiral Sir F. L., K.C.B., i. 165, 167 + + _Malabar_, i. 169, 171, 183, 184 + + Malacca, i. 134, 135, 137, 150, 157; ii. 24, 334 + + Malaga, i. 185, 186, 188, 190, 196 + + Malakoff, ii. 274 + + Malanga, ii. 172 + + Maldanado Roads, i. 43 + + Mallewali, ii. 96 + + Malone, Lieutenant, i. 17 + + Malta, i. 75, 168, 184, 200; ii. 249; iii. 117 + + Mambahennan, ii. 100 + + Mamelon, ii. 273 + + Manao, iii. 169 + + Manchester, Duke and Duchess of, i. 57; iii. 322, 323 + + Manila, i. 327; ii. 124; iii. 230 + + Maratabu River, ii. 23 + + _Mariner_, ii. 77 + + Marjoribanks, Dr., i. 326 + + Marmora, Sea of, ii. 249 + + Marseilles, i. 222 + + Martin, Admiral, ii. 239 + Captain George, i. 169 + Surgeon William, i. 75 + + Matapan, Cape, i. 180 + + Mataxa, Count, iii. 99 + + Mathieson, Commander, ii. 78 + + Maul, Fox; _see_ Panmure, Lord + + Mauritius, i. 85, 260; iii. 63 + + Maxwell, Sir Benson, iii. 317 + + Maxwell, Rev. Dr., iii. 223 + + Mayatchni Island, iii. 195 + + Maynard family, the, i. 164 + + Mazatlan, ii. 185, 188 + + _Medea_, ii. 116 + + Medhurst, Sir Walter, iii. 221, 239 + + _Medusa_, i. 266, 274 + + Melville Island, ii. 134 + + Menai Suspension Bridge, i. 94 + + Menschikoff, Admiral Prince, ii. 240 + + Mexico, city of, i. 56, 64 + Gulf of, i. 57 + + Meyerbeer, iii. 25 + + Miako, iii. 174, 175, 180 + + Michi, Mr., iii. 238 + + Mikado, the, iii. 190, 290 + + Millett family, the, i. 253 + + Milo, i. 68, 176 + + Mina, Captain-General, i. 188, 196 + Doña, i. 196 + + Ming Tombs, the, iii. 172 + + Minorca, i. 14 + + Minto, Lord, i. 255 + + Minwaji-no-Mia, Prince, iii. 286 + + Mitford, Bertram, iii. 268, 286, 290 + + _Modeste_, i. 243, 277 + + Moluccas Islands, ii. 147 + + Montagu, Oliver, iii. 323 + + Montague, Admiral Sir William, i. 169, 171, 184; ii. 205 + + Montenegro, the Marquis of, i. 195 + + Moore, Admiral Sir Graham, G.C.B., i. 260 + General Sir John, i. 260 + + Moorsom, Captain, ii. 285 + + Moowar, the Rajah of, i. 136, 137, 139-146 + River, i. 135; ii. 24 + + Moriataba River, i. 295 + + Mozambique Harbour, iii. 55 + + Muda Hassim, Rajah, i. 299, 300, 301, 306, 307, 319, 339; ii. 42, 84 + + Mulla, Seriff, i. 312; ii. 6 + + Mundy, Captain, i. 157, 172 + + Murrundum Island, i. 294 + + Musemberg, i. 73 + + + Nagasaki, iii. 144, 145, 170, 191, 192, 220, 300 + + Najassi, iii. 201 + + Nakoda Bahar, ii. 6 + + Nanbu Harbour, iii. 158 + + Nancowry Harbour, i. 134, 285 + + Nanking, i. 270, 271; iii. 239 + + Nankow, iii. 172 + + Nanning, i. 134, 135 + + Napier, Admiral Sir Charles John, K.C.B., i. 101, 102, 107, 117, 167, + 247; ii. 53, 57, 226, 228 + William, i. 288; ii. 24, 64, 67, 87 + + Napoleon, i. 1, 86, 90, 253 + + Napper, Surgeon James, i. 71 + + Nash, Lieutenant Charles, i. 70 + + Natunas, i. 294, 296, 297 + + Navarino, i. 68 + + Nelson, Rev. Edmund, i. 15 + Lord, i. 13, 15, 24; ii. 267 + + New Guinea, ii. 148 + + Newman, Sir Robert, ii. 276 + + New Spain, i. 64 + + New Zealand, ii. 152, 169 + + Nicholai, iii. 192, 206 + + Nicholas I., Czar, ii. 258 + + Nicholson, Port, ii. 169 + + Nicobar Islands, i. 134, 284 + + Nigata, iii. 167 + + Nightingale, Miss Florence, ii. 251 + + Ning Po, i. 279 + + Noad, Lieutenant Arthur, i. 113, 203, 257 + + Nogueras, General, i. 188 + + Norfolk Island, ii. 165 + + Norman, Colonel, iii. 296 + + Norris, Sir William, i. 285, 289 + + Northumberland, Duke of, i. 49 + + Norton, Mrs., i. 260 + + Nova Scotia, i. 52 + + Novogorod Harbour, iii. 194 + + Nwajima, Prince, iii. 293 + + + _Ocean_, iii. 179, 277 + + O’Donnell, Colonel, i. 192 + + Ohier, Admiral Marie Gustave, iii. 180, 227 + + Oldfield, Lieutenant R. Brice, ii. 59 + + Ommaney, Admiral Sir John, ii. 209 + + Onrust Island, ii. 130 + + Ord, Sir Henry, iii. 316 + + _Orestes_, i. 180, 197, 200 + + Orizaba Mountain, i. 62 + + Osaka, iii. 174, 179, 180, 186, 190, 220, 298 + + Osmond, John, i. 84 + + Otho, King of Greece, i. 179 + + Ou-teng-foi, iii. 235, 236 + + Owen, Admiral Sir E. W., i. 127, 128 + + + Paddi, town, i. 317 + + Paget, Commander Charles, i. 94 + Clarence, ii. 264 + + Pakington, Sir John, iii. 113 + + Pakoo, i. 318 + + Palmas, Cape, i. 211 + + Palmerston, Lord, i. 185; ii. 123, 182, 256; iii. 28, 29, 32, 100 + + Panmure, Lord, i. 162; iii. 15-17 + + Papua, ii. 148 + + Parker, Rev. Dr., i. 281 + Admiral Sir William Hyde, i. 191, 193, 195, 198, 254, 264, 266, + 271, 272, 273, 278, 325; ii. 27, 31 + + Parkes, Sir Henry, i. 264, 278; iii. 148, 150, 168, 169, 174, 179, + 181, 187, 188, 273, 297, 328 + + Paros, i. 179 + + Parseval Deschênes; _see_ Deschênes + + Partridge, family, i. 5; ii. 49 + + Partridge, C., ii. 61 + + Paterson, Mr., i. 66, 67 + + Patingi, Ali, ii. 7 + + Patterson, Admiral, i. 52 + Charles, i. 52 + + Patusen, ii. 2, 3, 5 + + Pechell, Captain, ii. 299 + + Peck, Henry and George, i. 73 + + Pedro, Don, i. 40 + + Peel, Sir Lawrence, i. 335 + + Peiho River, iii. 171 + + Peking, i. 81; iii. 144, 171, 259 + + Pelham, Dudley, i. 166 + + _Pelican_, i. 226, 231, 242, 277 + + Pell, Sir Watkin, ii. 43 + + Pelorus, ii. 144 + + Penang, i. 146, 149, 282, 333, 337; ii. 334; iii. 14, 120, 229, 318 + + _Penelope_, iii. 283 + + Penguin Island, i. 203, 208 + + Percy, Admiral Hon. Josceline, ii. 199 + + Percy, Captain Joseph, i. 169, 176 + + Perim, iii. 118, 119 + + Pernambuco, i. 41, 42 + + Perote, i. 64 + + Perry, Dare and Co., Messrs., i. 135 + + _Perseus_, iii. 234 + + Petropaulovski, i. 178; iii. 208 + + Pettigrew, Dr., i. 100 + + Pfingsten, Major, iii. 195 + + _Phlegethon_, i. 278; ii. 1, 3, 6, 77, 84, 234 + + _Piraeus_, the, i. 178 + + Plampin, Admiral, i. 48 + + Plumridge, Admiral J. H., i. 119, 121, 135; ii. 76, 231; iii. 130 + + _Plymouth_, ii. 121 + + Point de Galle, iii. 14, 119, 318 + + Po-leng, iii. 235 + + Polkinghorne, Commander James, i. 79 + + Pomony, iii. 56 + + Pontranini, ii. 20 + + Poore, Sir E., ii. 41 + + Popham, Commander Brunswick, i. 226, 231, 232, 242, 243 + + Popoe, Little, i. 235, 236 + + Porchester Castle, i. 52 + + Porirua, Cape, ii. 171 + + Port-au-Prince, i. 61 + + Portendick, i. 202 + + Porter, Captain, i. 98 + + Port Jackson, ii. 152, 153 + + _Portland_, i. 178, 180 + + Port Louis, i. 77, 79, 85 + + Port Mahon, i. 194 + + Port Nicholson, ii. 171 + + Porto Praya, i. 69, 204 + + Port Royal, Jamaica, i. 57, 60, 62, 112, 113 + + Posietta Bay, iii. 194 + + Potoo, i. 278 + + Pottinger, Sir Henry, i. 264, 271, 272, 273, 278, 322 + Major, i. 327 + + Price, Captain David, i. 178 + + Prince Edward’s Island, ii. 73 + + _Princess Charlotte_, i. 52; iii. 129, 130, 220 + + Prince’s Island, i. 224, 225, 229, 237, 244 + + Princess Royal, the, i. 253; iii. 114, 121 + + Province Wellesley, i. 283 + + Pulo Sabu, i. 288 + + + Queensberry, Marquis of, iii. 40 + + Quidenham, i. 1, 8, 9, 93; ii. 56, 65 + + Quin, Captain Michael, ii. 23 + + Quitta, i. 235, 240 + + + Raffles, Sir Stamford, i. 285; ii. 76 + + Raffles Bay, ii. 134 + + Raglan, Lord, ii. 256, 264, 275 + + _Raleigh_, ii. 324, 336; iii. 2, 8 + + Ramsay, Captain, ii. 235 + + _Ranee_, ii. 86 + + Ranelagh, Lord, i. 196 + + _Rattler_, iii. 190, 227 + + _Rattlesnake_, ii. 153 + + Read, Lieutenant Charles B., ii. 58, 72 + W. H., i. 289; iii. 317 + Lieutenant (U.S.N.), iii. 177 + + Redan, the, ii. 274, 299-304 + + _Revenge_, i. 200 + + Reynolds, Admiral Barrington, ii. 199 + + Rice, Edward, i. 169, 248, 260, 264, 274, 277 + family, the, i. 248 + + Rich, Henry, i. 96 + + Richmond, Duke of, i. 72, 253 + Duchess of, i. 72 + + Rigby, Colonel, iii. 62, 63 + + _Rinaldo_, iii. 187, 221, 222, 234 + + Rio de Janeiro, i. 36, 42, 43, 123; ii. 72, 198; iii. 42, 75 + + Rio de la Plata, i. 43 + + Risk, W. B., iii. 145 + + Rivers, Lieutenant, ii. 47 + + Roberts, Captain Sir Samuel, i. 168, 180 + + Robinson, Commander, iii. 221 + Sir Hercules, iii. 319 + + Roches, M., iii. 174, 180, 188 + + _Rodney_, i. 191, 192, 193, 196, 197, 200; ii. 276, 304; iii. 173, + 177, 180, 222, 247, 276, 323, 324 + + Rodyk, Jack, iii. 318 + + Roe, Sir Frederick and Lady, ii. 45 + + Rokeby, General Lord, ii. 246, 255 + + Romney family, the, i. 257 + + Rose, Sir Hugh, iii. 14 + + Rosebery, Lord, i. 7 + + Rouen, Baron de Forth, ii. 117 + + Rougemont, Lieutenant, iii. 187 + + Rous, Admiral Hon. Henry, i. 87, 90; iii. 20 + + Rowley, Sir Charles, ii. 27 + Admiral Sir Josias, i. 168, 180, 182, 183, 185, 201, 247; ii. 39 + Josias (junior), i. 261 + Admiral Samuel, ii. 32 + + Roy, Captain, iii. 186 + + Rubielo, i. 188 + + Ryder, Captain A. P., ii. 230 + + + Sacrificios, i. 114 + + Sadong River, i. 311; ii. 85 + + Saghalien Island, iii. 194, 198 + + Sahib, Seriff, ii. 2, 5, 20 + + Saigon, iii. 227 + + St. Angelo, Cape, i. 178 + + St. Barbara River, i. 227 + + San Domingo, i. 16, 61, 163 + + St. Helena, i. 90 + + St. Jago de Cuba, i. 33, 61, 69, 204, 261 + + _St. Jean d’Acre_, ii. 208, 233, 243 + + St. John, Sir Spenser, ii. 69 + + St. Juan d’Ulloa, i. 62 + + St. Paul’s, Cape, i. 235, 238 + Island, i. 123 + Roads, i. 85 + + San Salvador, i. 38, 39, 40; iii. 77, 78 + + St. Thomas Island, i. 229; iii. 73 + + St. Vincent, i. 97, 107 + + Sakai, iii. 186, 187 + + Salamanca, i. 82 + + Salamis, Bay of, i. 179 + + _Salamis_, iii. 115, 120, 122, 145, 173, 180, 192, 198, 234, 237 + + Salisbury, Lord, i. 177; iii. 324 + + Saltoun, General Lord, i. 252, 264, 327, 332 + + _Samarang_, ii. 18 + + Sambas River, i. 292 + + Sandilands, Commander A. A., i. 129 + + Sandringham, iii. 92, 93, 260 + + Sandwich Islands, i. 43; ii. 151 + + Santobong, ii. 112 + + _Saracen_, i. 203, 223, 228, 231, 232, 239, 240 + + Sarawak, i. 294, 296, 304, 319, 339; ii. 21, 83, 112; iii. 11, 124, + 229 + + Sarebas, the, ii. 127 + River, i. 311 + + _Satellite_, iii. 122 + + Satsuma, Prince, iii. 174, 175, 178, 180 + + Saumarez, Sir James, i. 69 + Captain, i. 326 + + Saxe-Weimar, Duke Bernard of, ii. 131 + Prince Edward of, ii. 253 + + Schomberg, Commodore, i. 85, 87 + + Scott, Captain Lord Charles, iii. 170, 222 + Captain Frank, i. 103, 190; ii. 7 + + _Scout_, i. 167, 170, 225, 231, 232, 240, 242 + + Sebastopol; _see_ Sevastopol + + Seboo, ii. 2 + + Sekarran, country, ii. 2 + River, i. 312; ii. 6 + + Sekarrans, the, ii. 1, 127 + + Senegal, i. 238 + + _Serapis_, iii. 332 + + Seriff Jaffer, ii. 2 + + Seton, Sir Henry, i. 335 + + Sevastopol, ii. 240, 254, 256, 264 + + Seymour family, the, i. 253 + Admiral Sir George, i. 163, 198, 258; ii. 327; iii. 321 + Admiral G. Henry, i. 198, 200, 275, 277, 278, 322, 333; ii. 235; + iii. 283, 321 + Admiral Lord Hugh, i. 16, 17 + Admiral Sir Michael, i. 55; ii. 209, 238, 337; iii. 1, 9 + Michael (junior), iii. 3 + Lord William, ii. 235 + + Shakotan Bay, iii. 227 + + Shanghai, i. 266, 277; iii. 142, 172, 180, 220, 237 + + Shaw, Whitehead and Co., i. 288 + + Shepherd, Captain, ii. 182 + Quartermaster John, ii. 274, 282 + + Sheridan, Charles, i. 260 + Francis, i. 260, 261, 262 + + Sheriff, Admiral, ii. 47, 56, 60 + + Shrewsbury, Lord, i. 187 + + Shunski, Ito, iii. 183 + + Siefukigi Temple, iii. 183 + + Sierra Leone, i. 202, 203, 233; iii. 70 + + Simmons, Mr., purser, ii. 80 + + Simoneseki Straits, iii. 146, 265 + + Simon’s Bay, i. 71, 74, 75, 77, 83, 86, 261; iii. 45, 67, 74 + + Simpson, Arthur Bridgman, i. 70, 71 + General, i. 81; ii. 279 + Dr., i. 271, 319, 322, 323 + + Sinclair, Major, i. 291 + + Singapore, i. 147, 157, 263, 281, 285, 288, 322, 333, 338; ii. 23, + 24, 75, 77, 111, 128, 129; iii. 9, 13, 115, 120, 121, 122, 230 + + _Sir Charles Forbes_, iii. 1 + + Skipsey, Commodore, i. 76 + + Skipwith family, the, i. 253; ii. 48 + Lieutenant Grey, i. 165, 191, 193, 252, 264, 272, 273, 278, 279, + 291; ii. 65 + + Smith, Lieutenant Christopher, i. 63, 71 + + Smyrna, i. 168, 175, 176 + + Sober Island, i. 127 + + Somerset, the Duke of, iii. 79, 265 + Lord Charles Fitzroy, i. 72 + + Soult, Marshal, i. 247 + + Spalding, John, i. 98 + + _Spartan_, ii. 41 + + Speke, Captain John Hanning, iii. 41, 46, 57, 91 + + Spencer, Earl, i. 102, 103, 253 + + _Sphynx_, ii. 52 + + Spurrier, Mr., iii. 4, 20 + + Stanhope, Captain, iii. 179, 181, 186, 187 + Elizabeth, i. 8 + Spencer, i. 8 + + Stanley, Captain Owen, i. 291; ii. 134, 142, 153, 156 + + _Stanley_, iii. 222 + + Staveley, Captain, ii. 117-123 + General, ii. 117 + + Stephenson, Augustus, ii. 240 + Commander Henry Frederick, i. 66, 93, 96, 97, 119, 164; ii. 219; + iii. 15-17, 19, 27, 107, 115, 190, 205 + Henry (junior), ii. 219, 233 + Lady Mary; _see_ Keppel + + Steward, Mr., ii. 7 + + Stewart, Mrs. Keith; _see_ Fitzroy, Mary + + Stoddard, Consul, ii. 70 + + Stopford, Admiral Sir Robert, i. 201; ii. 46, 55 + + Straits Settlements, the, iii. 121, 316 + + Strongiolo Bay, i. 179 + + Suckling, i. 20, 24 + + Suez, iii. 18, 118 + + Suffield, Lord and Lady, i. 162 + + Suffolk, Earl of, i. 97 + + Sullivan, Sir Charles, Bart., i. 59 + + Sulu, the Sultan of, ii. 104 + + Sumatra, i. 149 + + Summers, Mr., ii. 118-123 + + Sunda, Straits of, i. 147, 263; ii. 75 + + Surtees family, i. 5 + + Sussex, H.R.H. Augustus, Duke of, i. 9, 11, 66, 93, 97, 160, 161, + 246, 247, 249, 322 + + Suttie, Captain Francis, iii. 115 + + Swan, Commander John, iii. 190 + + Swansen, Mr., i. 214, 215, 216, 219-221 + + Swatow, iii. 136, 233, 235 + + Swinhoe, Consul, iii. 237 + + _Sybille_, iii. 8 + + Sydney, ii. 152, 153, 154, 164 + + Symonds, Sir William, i. 169; ii. 41, 46 + + Syra, i. 180 + + + Tagus, River, ii. 213 + + Tahiti, ii. 177 + + Tai-wan-foo, iii. 224 + + Taki Zingaburo, iii. 183, 184 + + Taku Forts, iii. 171, 264, 303, 310 + + _Talavera_, i. 169, 171 + + Talbot, Captain Charles, i. 123 + + Talleyrand, Prince, i. 162, 247 + + Tambilan Islands, i. 292, 338 + + Tampico, i. 58, 64, 65, 113 + + Tangiers, i. 168 + + Tang-Tau, iii. 234, 235 + + Tanjong Datu, i. 294; ii. 83; iii. 123 + + Tanjong Po, i. 295; ii. 83 + + Tarragona, i. 189, 196 + + Tartary, Gulf of, iii. 192 + + Tasmania, ii. 157 + + Taylor, pilot, i. 257 + + Tchung-How, iii. 263 + + Templer, John, ii. 43, 62 + J. L. B., ii. 43 + + Termination Island, iii. 195 + + Thackeray, William Makepeace, iii. 82 + + Thistlethwaite, Mr., i. 251 + + Thompson, Deas, ii. 157 + + Thompson, Rev. Josias, ii. 328; iii. 9 + + Thours, Captain Du Petit, iii. 187, 227, 271 + + _Thunderer_, i. 121, 169, 170, 180 + + _Tien Chi_, iii. 222 + + Tientsin, iii. 303 + + Tillenadin, Conanyaga Modr, i. 128 + + Tomari, iii. 163 + + Tombeaux Bay, iii. 65 + + Tonga Tabu, ii. 172 + + Toolyan Island, ii. 106 + + Torres, Captain de, i. 36 + + Torres Straits, ii. 142 + + Tortoza, i. 188 + + Tosa, Prince, iii. 170 + + Tottenham, Lieutenant, i. 258, 285; ii. 81 + + Townshend, Captain Lord James, i. 123 + + Tracey, Commander, iii. 177 + + Trade Town, i. 203, 206 + + Trafalgar, i. 7, 12 + + _Tribune_, i. 169, 175, 183, 189; iii. 8 + + Trincomalee, i. 125, 128, 147, 157 + + Tripoli, i. 171, 178 + + Tristan d’Achuna, i. 123 + + Trollope, Commander, iii. 222 + + Trowbridge, Captain Sir Thomas, i. 257, 272; ii. 116, 117, 120 + + Troy, i. 178 + + Tseng Kuo-fau, iii. 222 + + Tumongong of Singapore, the, ii. 81, 82 + + Turnour, Captain Edward W., i. 333; ii. 3-7, 336; iii. 1, 4, 39, 45 + + Twanai, iii. 163 + + _Tweed_, i. 19, 25, 46, 65, 66, 67, 85 + + Twofold Bay, ii. 157 + + _Tyne_, i. 169, 176, 187, 189, 200 + + + _Undaunted_, i. 67, 84 + + Undop, ii. 5, 6, 19 + + + Valencia, i. 187, 191, 195 + + Valparaiso, ii. 195 + + _Venus_, iii. 186 + + Vera Cruz, i. 57, 58, 62, 65 + + Vernon, Lord, i. 184 + + _Vernon_, i. 169, 180 + + Victor of Hohenlohe, Prince, ii. 235; iii. 1, 2, 9, 25 + + Victoria, Queen, i. 247, 250, 251; ii. 218, 313, 324; iii. 19, 41, + 116, 322, 329 + Princess; _see_ Princess Royal + + _Victory_, i. 53 + + Villa Nueva, i. 200 + + Vizeu, Francisco Nunes Sweezer, i. 2, 103 + + _Vladimir_, ii. 302 + + Vladivostock, iii. 198, 218 + + Vlangali, A., iii. 192, 194 + + _Volage_, i. 169, 180 + + Von Brockhausen, Baron, i. 191 + + Vourla, i. 168, 170, 171, 173 + + + Wade, Sir Thomas, i. 81 + Colonel, i. 81 + Lieutenant C. F., ii. 3, 6, 14 + + Waitemata Harbour, ii. 171 + + Wales, H.R.H. the Prince of, i. 96, 257; iii. 81, 92, 93, 105, 113, + 115, 322, 328, 329, 332, 333 + H.R.H. the Princess of, iii. 81, 93, 105, 322, 333 + + Walker, Captain Sir Baldwin, i. 201; ii. 208; iii. 74 + + Walpole-Keppel, family of, i. 7 + + _Wanderer_, i. 275, 333 + + Waring, Mr., i. 187 + + Warren, Admiral, i. 121; iii. 75 + + Warrington, Colonel, i. 172 + + Waterford, Lord, i. 246 + + Waterloo, Battle of, i. 1, 72, 86 + + Waterpark, Eliza, Lady, i. 8 + + _Waterwitch_, i. 223, 227, 228 + + Watson, Captain, i. 274, 277, 278 + + Wellesley, Captain George, iii. 14 + + _Wellesley_, ii. 68 + + Wellington, Duke of, i. 82, 86, 247, 256; ii. 206 + + Wellington, N.Z., ii. 171 + + Wemyss and March, Earl of, i. 8 + Frederica, Countess of, i. 8 + + West, Green, i. 71 + Jane; _see_ Keppel, Lady + Rev. Richard, iii. 80 + + Whampoa, i. 323; ii. 80, 116; iii. 14, 232, 317 + + Whichcote, Sir Thomas, iii. 27 + + White, Admiral Sir John, ii. 29 + + Whitehead, Mr., i. 322 + + Whitshed, Admiral Sir James Hawkins, i. 27 + + Whydah, i. 237, 239 + + Whytock, Colonel, ii. 60 + + Wildman, Colonel, i. 11 + + William IV., King, i. 102, 120, 121, 160, 161, 163, 200 + + Williams, Sir John, i. 94 + Admiral Sir Thomas, G.C.B., i. 94, 165 + + Williamson, Mr., i. 302; ii. 7 + + Willoughby, James, iii. 117 + + Wilson, Lieutenant A. K., iii. 178 + family, the, i. 51 + + Windham, General Charles, ii. 260, 300, 301 + Mr., ii. 101, 105 + + Windsor, iii. 115, 116 + + Wise, Henry, ii. 43, 62, 63 + Captain W., i. 169 + + Wodehouse, George, i. 103 + + _Wolverine_, i. 199, 200, 281; ii. 24 + + Wood, Sir Charles, iii. 9 + Rev. James, i. 2, 4 + + Woosung, i. 266-269, 275; iii. 180, 220 + + Würtemburg, the Prince of, i. 115 + + Wynberg, i. 71 + + + Xalapa, i. 57, 63, 64 + + Xavier, St. Francis, i. 150 + + Xeres, i. 184 + + + Yang-tse-kiang River, i. 268, 269; iii. 237 + + Yarborough, Lord, i. 166 + + Yates, Mr., i. 66 + + Yedo, iii. 148, 179, 180, 265 + + Yeh, Admiral, iii. 6 + + Yeng Cheow, iii. 223 + + Yesso, iii. 164 + + Yo-chow, iii. 250 + + Yokohama, iii. 148, 150, 151, 162, 174, 177, 179, 180, 191, 192, 220, + 295 + + Yokosha, iii. 191 + + York, Cape, ii. 142 + + Young, Captain, ii. 79 + + Yule, Lieutenant, ii. 165 + + + Zante, i. 180, 182 + + Zanzibar, iii. 57 + the Sultan of, iii. 62 + + _Zebra_, iii. 222 + + +END OF VOL. I. + + +_Printed by_ R. & R. CLARK, LIMITED, _Edinburgh_. + + + + +Transcriber’s Notes + + + • Italic text denoted by _underscores_. + • Small capitals converted to ALL CAPS. + • Images relocated close to related content. + • Sidenotes relocated close to related content. + • The original has a sidenote at the start of every page to indicate + the current year and sometimes a reminder of the current location. + Where the year and location are clear from the text and previous + sidenotes, these page-top notes have been omitted. + • Footnotes have been renumbered consecutively and relocated close + to related content. + • Punctuation and other obvious typographic inaccuracies were silently + corrected. + • Archaic and variable spelling has been preserved. + • Variations in hyphenation and compound words have been preserved. + • The list of Illustrations credits “_Dido_ at Chusan” to Anonymous. + But in the text, Keppel notes that Watson of the _Modeste_ made the + drawing. Naval records show that Rundle Burges Watson commanded the + _Modeste_ at this time. List of Illustrations updated to give Watson + credit for the drawing. + • The index that is in volume III has been replicated into volumes I + and II. Only those page numbers pertaining to this volume have + been linked. + +Corrections + + Page| From | To + ----+------------------------------+-------------------------------- + 52 | Built by the Romans in the | Built by the Romans, in the + | fourteenth century, it was | fourteenth century it was + 277 | Rundle, Bowles, Watson, | Rundle Burges Watson + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76808 *** |