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diff --git a/76785-0.txt b/76785-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4208e7e --- /dev/null +++ b/76785-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2783 @@ + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76785 *** + + + + + + MATERIALS FOR + SUPERIOR CROCHET AND + MACRAMÉ WORK + + +The success of crochet and macramé work depends largely upon the careful +choice of superior materials which are suitable for the work, giving it +the clean and finished appearance which is often missing from work that, +being made from poor material, has an amateurish appearance. We +recommend especially, for cotton crochet work:— + + Bucilla Crochet + Bear Macramé + + +Bucilla Crochet + +A smooth working, highly mercerized cotton suitable for making laces, +center pieces, belts, purses, bed spreads, etc. White and ecru are made +in fifteen sizes and the fifteen beautiful colors are made in four or +more sizes. This is an American product and superior to all the imported +articles that have been offered heretofore. + +Bear Macramé + +Is a heavier, mercerized, hard twisted cord suitable for all kinds of +Macramé work as well as for crocheting. From it are made bags, +portieres, table covers, lamp shades, etc. It is much called for by the +exclusive trade. + +Glossilla Crochet + +Resembles the finest silk crochet thread, is more lustrous and retains +its luster under all circumstances. It is used for neckties, belts, +bags, etc.; is put up in convenient cartons from which the thread can be +drawn while working, the remainder being entirely protected by the +transparent shell. Each carton contains enough material for one necktie +or belt. + +This carton has been patented. + +Klondyke Thread + +Is a soft metal thread for crocheting. It comes in a rich, bright gold +color, also in aluminum, antique gold and antique silver. It is superior +to all metal threads on the market; does not tarnish easily and is most +satisfactory for working purposes. + + + + + =Cro-Knitting= + _The New Art of Worsted Work_ + ALSO + =Crocheted Lattice Work= + PRESENTING A COLLECTION OF ORIGINAL AND ATTRACTIVE DESIGNS WITH FULL + WORKING DIRECTIONS + + + PRICE, 25 CENTS + + + PUBLISHED BY + BERNHARD ULMANN & CO. + 107 TO 113 GRAND STREET, NEW YORK CITY + + + + + COPYRIGHT 1914, + BY + BERNHARD ULMANN & CO. + + + + + FOREWORD + + +The new art of Cro-Knitting is, as its name implies, a combination of +crocheting and knitting, the effects produced being as beautiful as they +are novel. The variety of unusual stitches is almost without limit and +leads the worker, who desires something out of the beaten path, into new +fields that tempt her to go on and on seeking and finding unknown +beauties at each step. Once mastered, Cro-Knitting may be used for +numerous purposes. + +In presenting this new art to the public, we feel that it will be +welcomed by the many friends of the BEAR BRAND MANUAL OF HANDIWORK. + +We have included, in addition to Cro-Knitting, a number of designs for +the new Crocheted Lattice Work that need only to be seen to be +appreciated. + +We wish, however, to advise the worker that in carrying out the various +directions given, she uses exactly the materials designated. The +directions were tested with the yarns and needles named and only by +their use can the proper results be obtained. Do not substitute another +yarn and then wonder why your work is not satisfactory. Use the yarn +specified— + + + BEAR BRAND + +[Illustration: + + Young Girl’s Norfolk + + (_For description see page 7_) +] + + + + + CRO-KNITTING + + +“To knit from a crochet hook and crochet from a knitting pin” is the +best description of Cro-Knitting. The rows of crocheting and knitting +are worked alternately or as the various patterns demand. The work +requires a pair of knitting pins (or needles, as they are sometimes +called) and a crochet hook of the same length and size as the pins. The +hook should be of an even thickness down its entire length, with a knob +at the end, as the stitches are allowed to accumulate on it as in afghan +stitch. + +The work is always commenced on a knitting pin, the stitches being cast +on in the usual manner (see Bear Brand Manual of Handiwork), followed by +one or more rows of plain knitting. + +KNITTED ROWS: the wool is to be held in the usual manner. The first +stitch is to be slipped or knitted as directed, but where a row of +knitting commences with a different wool, the first stitch is always +knitted, to keep the stripe distinct. + +CROCHETED ROWS: when working these from the knitting pin, the hook is +inserted through the stitch on the pin, as though it were a second +knitting pin (from left to right). When working into the back of a +stitch, the hook is inserted in reverse manner (from right to left). +When working the crocheted rows the wool is passed over the fingers of +the left hand. When two knitting stitches are taken together the hook is +passed through the stitch nearer the left hand (as in knitting) before +entering the stitch next to the point of the pin. When the back threads +of two stitches are taken together, this is reversed and the crochet +hook enters first the stitch at the point of the pin. As the crocheted +rows are worked from the stitches on the knitting pin, it is not +possible to “skip one” as in ordinary crocheting, as the stitch would +drop, but it is an easy matter to put one stitch into two knitting +stitches taken together, thus producing an extremely pretty effect. + +In the instructions, when the phrase occurs “1 double through two +stitches, 1 double through the back of the same two stitches,” the +repetition means that the stitches are to be held on the knitting pin +until the second double has been made; then slip stitches from pin. + +When knitting from the crochet hook the point of the hook must be kept +pointing downward to avoid catching the wool. + +STITCHES. The knitting stitches are merely the usual plain and purl. The +basic crochet stitches are single, double and treble crochet and the +various cluster stitches, some of which are illustrated. + +[Illustration] + + + SINGLE CROCHET STITCH. + +Cast on any number of stitches and knit 1 row. * With the crochet hook +draw the wool through the stitch on the knitting pin; wool over hook and +through the loop just drawn through, slip stitch from the pin and repeat +from * all across. After row has been finished, there should be as many +stitches on hook as there were on pin. + +[Illustration] + + + DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH. + +Cast on any number of stitches and knit one row. Wool over hook, draw +the wool through first stitch on pin: wool over and through the two +loops on hook. Slip stitch from knitting pin. * Wool over hook, draw +wool through next stitch on pin, wool over and through two loops, slip +stitch from pin and repeat from * all across. + +[Illustration] + + + TREBLE CROCHET STITCH. + +Cast on any number of stitches and knit one row. Insert hook in first +stitch and draw wool through, ch. 2 and slip stitch from pin. * Wool +over hook, draw wool through next stitch on pin, wool over and through +two loops, wool over and through one loop, slip stitch from pin and +repeat from * all across. + +[Illustration] + + + AUTOMOBILE STITCH. + +Cast on an even number of stitches and knit 4 rows. + +First pattern row: with crochet hook pull a loop through first stitch, +wool over and pick up another loop in same stitch, slip stitch from pin, +wool over and pick up a loop in next stitch, wool over and through all 5 +loops on hook, ch. 1, thus forming one cluster, slip stitch from pin, * +wool over and pick up a loop in next stitch, slip off pin, wool over and +pick up a loop in next stitch, wool over and through all 5 loops on +hook, ch. 1, slip stitch from pin and repeat from * all across. + +Second pattern row: pick up a loop in the back thread of second and all +remaining stitches, retaining loops on hook (as in afghan stitch). The +loop on hook will count as first stitch. + +Knit 2 rows. These four rows constitute one pattern. + + + CLUSTER STITCH. + +Cast on an even number of stitches and knit one row. + +[Illustration] + +Second row: insert crochet hook in first stitch, draw wool through, ch. +1, slip stitch from pin. * Make 1 treble crochet through the next two +stitches together, 1 double crochet through the back of the same two +stitches, slip stitches from pin and repeat from * all across, ending by +working final stitch as first was made. + +Knit 3 rows. Repeat these last four rows for the length desired. + + + LATTICE WORK. + +This is a variation of ordinary crocheting, the stitches being those +employed in that art. + +The work is done with regular crochet hooks of various sizes, as +designated in the instructions. + +The novel feature is the fact, that _in addition_ to the hook, one large +wooden pin, made like an ordinary knitting pin, is required. On this pin +the stitches are placed so that regularity in the height of the lattice +work rows is attained. + +These “Lattice Pins” are made in four sizes, the largest. No. 1, being +almost four inches in circumference. For fine lattice work a knitting +pin of the desired size can be substituted. + +The work is very simple and effective. + + + + + YOUNG GIRL’S NORFOLK. + + (_See illustration page 4_) + .ce 1 + Materials Required: + + 5 skeins Bear Brand German Knitting Yarn. + 1 skein contrasting color, knitting yarn. + 1 pair of amber knitting pins, No. 7 (14 in. long). + 1 amber crochet hook, No. 7, same length. + + +Using two threads of the principal color cast on 46 stitches for the +lower edge of sleeve. K. 2, p. 2 for 15 rows. Knit 40 rows (20 purl). +Knit the first stitch on pin throughout. On the 41st row increase by +knitting 2 stitches in the first and last stitches of row. Continue to +increase, in this way, on every fifth row until there are 56 stitches on +the pin, then work without increasing, until there are 90 rows (45 +purls) in all, for the sleeve. Cast on 70 stitches, knit back on these +stitches and the 56 sleeve stitches, then cast on 70 more stitches. On +these 196 stitches knit 30 rows. On the next row, k. 32, bind off 6 +stitches for belt opening of front, knit until 42 stitches remain +unworked, then bind off 6 stitches for belt opening in back. On the next +row, change to a single thread of contrasting color and knit back +casting on the 12 stitches which were bound off for the openings. + +The Cro-Knitting band is next to be made of contrasting color. Beginning +at the lower edge of the front make first fancy row as follows: with +crochet hook pull a loop through first stitch on the knitting pin, slip +loop from pin, * pull a loop through next stitch, pull another loop +through the back of same stitch, slip stitch from pin, pull a loop +through front of next stitch and another through back of same stitch, +hold stitch on pin, wool over and through 4 loops on hook, ch. 1, pull a +loop through back stitch of cluster, then slip stitch from pin, wool +over and repeat from * until one stitch remains, do not throw wool over +after last cluster, draw loop through final stitch. + +Second fancy row: k. 2, * k. the next stitch and the stitch that was +thrown over together, k. 1 and repeat from * until 3 stitches remain, k. +3. Knit 2 plain rows. Repeat the two fancy rows, knit 2 plain rows and +again repeat the two fancy rows, for the last fancy row changing to 2 +threads of principal color. This completes the band. It will be noticed +that the wrong side of the first fancy row is shown on the right side of +band. + +Knit 11 rows, on the first two of these rows making openings for belt as +made on the other side of Cro-Knitting band. The last row ends at the +lower edge of the back. Knit 98 stitches for the length of back and run +remaining stitches on to a thread; turn, k. the first 2 stitches +together then knit to the end of the row. At the end of the next row +knit the last 2 stitches together to shape the neck. Knit 22 rows, then +2 rows, increasing 1 stitch on each row, at neck end. Run these stitches +on an extra pin or thread but do not fasten off wool. Take another ball +and make right front. Cast on 94 stitches with contrasting color and +knit 4 rows, make 2 fancy rows of Cro-Knitting, knit 1 row, on the next +row make button holes, as follows: k. 3, * bind off 3, k. 8 and repeat +from *. Eight button holes, in all. On the next row cast on the 3 +stitches opposite those bound off. Knit one row then repeat the two +fancy rows, on the last of these change to principal color. Knit 8 rows, +then 4 rows increasing 1 stitch at the neck end of each row. The last +row should end at the neck. Fasten off wool. + +Take the stitches of the back from the thread on to knitting pin +beginning with the stitch at the lower edge of back and with the ball of +wool left there, work to the lower edge of the front. Knit 11 plain +rows, not forgetting the belt openings, then 1 row of contrasting color +and repeat Cro-Knitting band as made on first side. Make second side of +back and sleeve to match first side. After finishing the 15 rows of k. +2, p. 2 ribbing on second sleeve, knit 2 plain rows, of contrasting +color, then repeat the Cro-Knitting band as made on body of garment, +making four patterns instead of three to form turn back cuff. Make two +extra plain rows and bind off. + +Pick up the 46 stitches at bottom of first sleeve and on them knit +second cuff to match first one made. + +Take the 98 stitches from thread and on them knit the left front, as +follows: knit 4 rows, decreasing by knitting 2 stitches together at the +neck end of each row, then knit 16 rows plain and bind off on wrong +side. + +Pick up 52 stitches around neck with contrasting color and knit 4 rows, +2 fancy Cro-Knitting rows, knit 1 row. Eighth row: k. 3, bind off 3, +knit to end. On the next row cast on the 3 stitches bound off for the +button hole. Knit 1 row, 2 fancy rows, knit 1 row and bind off. + +Belt: using contrasting color, cast on 134 stitches and knit 4 rows, 2 +fancy rows, k. 4 rows, 2 fancy rows, k. 2 rows then bind off on wrong +side. + +Sew up under arm seams and sleeves. + + + + +[Illustration] + + CUTAWAY JACKET. + + Materials Required: + + ½ box Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. + 2 skeins contrasting color Germantown, 4-fold. + 1 amber crochet hook, No. 4, 14 inches long. + 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 4, same length. + + +Using the principal color, cast on 78 stitches and work, in Raspberry +stitch, as follows: + +First row: knit plain. + +Second row: purl. + +Third row: with crochet hook make 1 d. c. in first stitch, slip stitch +from pin; * 1 d. c. through the next two stitches, keeping the stitches +on knitting pin, 1 s. c. through the back of the same two stitches. Slip +the two knitted stitches from the pin and repeat from * all along the +row, ending with 1 d. c. in the final stitch. + +Fourth row: purl. + +Fifth row: knit. + +Sixth row: like third. These six rows constitute one pattern and are +repeated over and over again for the whole jacket. After four rows of +clusters have been made, decrease by knitting together the two first and +the two last stitches of the knitted row. Begin the next cluster row by +working a whole cluster through the two first stitches on pin and end +row in same manner through the two last stitches. Make one more row of +clusters, in same way, then decrease, as before, on the knitted row. The +next two cluster rows will begin and end with 1 d. c. in the first and +last stitches. + +Continue to decrease in this way, until six stitches in all have been +decreased at each end. 66 stitches remain. After two more cluster rows +have been made, increase, by knitting two stitches in the first and last +stitches of the knitted row, and continue to increase after _each_ +cluster row until 4 stitches have been added at each end. On these 74 +stitches continue until the work measures about 23 inches, or is long +enough to reach to the neck. + +Divide for neck and shoulders, as follows: knit 28 stitches and run them +on a thread or extra pin; bind off 18 stitches for neck and on the +remaining 28 stitches begin the left front. Increase at the neck end, on +each of the knitted and purled rows until there are 50 stitches on the +pin. On these 50 stitches continue until four cluster rows have been +made, then at front edge decrease 1 stitch on each of the knitted and +purled rows, keeping the under arm seam straight until waistline has +been reached; then increase at the under arm seam on the knitted and +purled rows, every other time. Continue decreasing on front edge, as +before. Work until front is as long as the back, and bind off. + +Take the stitches from the thread and on them make the right front, as +left was made, taking care to keep them opposites. Sew up the under arm +seams, leaving enough space at the top for the arm holes. + +BORDER. Around the entire garment and arm holes work, in plain +crocheting, as follows: + +First round: 1 s. c. in each stitch. + +Second round: 1 d. c. in each stitch of preceding round, putting extra +stitches on rounding corners to prevent capping. + +Third round: 1 d. c. around the post of each d. c. of second round. No +extra stitches on corners. When this round has been finished turn it +back all around garment. + +Using the contrasting color, work around outside edge, as follows: * 1 +s. c. in stitch, ch. 3, another s. c. in same stitch, skip 1 stitch and +repeat from * all around. Work the same finish all around the edge of +the turned-back round, skipping one stitch between picots around neck +and sleeves and on the rounding edges skipping two stitches between or +enough to make the border perfectly flat. + +Fasten the right front over the left with crocheted buttons and frogs +made of the contrasting color. The frogs are made of a chain stitch +cord, using two threads of the wool. Use washable button molds and +crochet a covering for them, as follows: ch. 3 and join in a ring, 6 s. +c. in the ring. Do not join. 2 s. c. in each stitch of the preceding +round, then widen enough to make work flat until the desired size has +been attained. Make 1 round without widening and then skip every other +stitch until proper size. Slip in mold, draw up and sew in place. + +Place three buttons and frogs on each under arm seam. + +[Illustration: + + Lattice Work Scarf +] + + + + + LATTICE WORK SCARF. + + Materials Required: + + 13 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. + 4 skeins Bear Brand Rococo Wool. + 1 amber or bone crochet hook, No. 5. + 1 Lattice Pin, No. 1 (16 inches long). + + +(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If +the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required +will be proportionately less._) + +Using the Germantown and crochet hook, chain 62 and turn. Make 1 double +crochet stitch (1 d. c.) in the fourth chain from the needle and 1 d. c. +in each of the other chains. 60 d. c. in all, counting the three chains +skipped as 1 d. c. Turn. The work should measure 14 inches in length and +be ¾ of an inch high. + +Second row: ch. 2, wool over and take up a loop through the front thread +of the second stitch of previous row, wool over and through all three +loops on needle, thus forming one short, double crochet stitch. Continue +making 1 s. d. c. in each stitch to the end, always counting the chain +made when beginning row as one stitch. Turn. 60 stitches. + +Third row: chain 3, 1 d. c. in second and each succeeding stitch of +previous row, taken through the double thread. 60 stitches. + +Repeat second and third rows until there are five rows, in all, or the +work measures 3 inches in depth; ending with a double crochet row. + +The border is next to be made. Turn and * draw a loop through the back +thread of first stitch and through the loop on needle, thus forming 1 +slip stitch (1 s. s.). Repeat from * in each stitch of row. Turn. Make 1 +single crochet stitch in each stitch of double crochet row taking up the +back thread. Through the last stitch draw the Rococo wool and fasten off +Germantown. + +Lattice Work: draw up the loop of Rococo and slip it on the Lattice pin. +This pin is held under the right arm firmly. Hold the wrong side of work +toward you and with crochet hook pull a loop of wool through the double +threads of second stitch and slip it on the pin. Continue drawing one +loop through each stitch to the end—60 loops on pin. Join on the +Germantown and fasten off Rococo. Slip loops off the pin. * Draw the +fourth, fifth and sixth loops, in turn, through the first three loops +and make 1 s. c. in each loop as it is drawn through; then 1 s. c. in +each of the first three loops, thus forming the lattice. Repeat from * +all along row. Turn. + +Repeat the four border rows over and over until there are five rows of +lattice work. Then repeat the first, second and again the first row. +When making the second rows the stitches are to be taken up on the back +threads of the fourth rows. + +The center is made as the second and third rows of scarf were made: the +first row of d. c. being taken on back thread of border and all +subsequent d. c. rows taken through the double thread. Make center 50 +inches long, then repeat border. Make 5 rows to match beginning and then +begin border down the side of scarf. Make a row of s. c. putting 3 s. c. +in the end of each d. c. row and 2 s. c. in each s. d. c. row, or enough +to make work flat. Across the end of each lattice row chain 3. Be sure +this row contains a multiple of six stitches. Turn and slip stitch on +the back thread of s. c. stitches and across the 3 chained stitches. +Continue as border was made on ends until two rows of lattice work have +been made, then repeat first, second and again the first border rows and +fasten off. Finish second side in same manner. Across the ends put a +knotted-in fringe in every fourth stitch. Put six strands of Germantown +in each tassel and cut strands 12 inches long. + + + + + PORCH JACKET IN CRO-KNITTING. + + Materials Required: + + 5 skeins of Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. + 2 skeins contrasting color Germantown, for trimming. + 1 pair No. 7 amber knitting pins, 10 inches long. + 1 No. 7 amber crochet hook, with knob, same length. + + +(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If +the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required +will be proportionately less._) + +[Illustration] + +Using knitting pins and principal color, cast on 28 stitches and work in +Automobile Stitch (see page 6) until there are four patterns of 14 +clusters each. Then increase by picking up an extra stitch at each end +of every afghan row until there are 26 clusters in the row. Make three +patterns of 26 clusters when the work should be long enough to reach to +the neck. On the next afghan row, pick up 19 loops with the one on pin, +(20 in all) and make two patterns of 10 clusters each for the left +shoulder. On next afghan row, increase one stitch at the neck end, make +2 knitted rows then turn, pick up a loop in first stitch, wool over and +pick up another loop in same stitch, wool over and through 3 loops on +hook, ch. 1, thus forming a half cluster. Continue in regular way. On +the next cluster row there will be eleven clusters. Continue increasing +in this way, at neck end, ½ cluster on each cluster row, until there are +14 clusters in the row. Make four rows of 14 clusters. On the second +knit row decrease as follows: k. 8, k. 2 together, k. 8, k. 2 tog., k. +8. + +Decrease in the same way on each of the next 3 pattern rows, having 2 +stitches less between the decreasings on each pattern. + +Make 5 patterns of 10 clusters each, knit 3 rows and bind off. + +Go back to the neck, skip 12 stitches and pick up the final 20 stitches +for the afghan row. On these stitches make right front to correspond to +left front. + +Still using principal color, work around the entire jacket, as follows: +* 1 s. c., ch. 1, skip enough space to make work lie flat and repeat +from *. Draw a loop of the contrasting color through loop on hook. Ch. +1, draw up loop about ¾ of an inch, * wool over, pick up a loop in the +chain space, wool over and pick up another loop in same space, wool over +and through all 5 loops on hook, ch. 1, thus forming one cluster. Repeat +from * all around jacket putting an extra cluster in each corner to +prevent capping. Join with a slip stitch in the top of first cluster. +Pull a loop of principal color through and make cluster round as before, +putting clusters in the top of cluster of preceding round, followed by a +round of clusters in contrasting color. Final round: use principal +color, * 1 s. c. in top of cluster ch. 4, 1 d. c. in same space, skip 1 +cluster and repeat from * all around. + +Lace up under arms with ribbons. + + + + + ENGLISH SLEEPING SOCKS. + + Materials Required: + + 2 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. + 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2, 10 inches long. + 1 No. 2 amber crochet hook, 10 inches long. + + +Cast on 72 stitches and purl one row. + +Second row: k. 1, increase (by picking up and knitting the thread) k. +34, increase, knit 2, increase, k. 34, increase, k. 1. + +Third and every alternate row: purl. + +Fourth row: k. 2, increase, knit 34, increase, k. 1, increase, k. 2 for +center, then reverse directions. + +Sixth row: k. 1, increase, k. 39, increase, knit 2 and reverse. + +Eighth row: k. 2, increase, k. 39, increase, k. 1, increase, k. 2 and +reverse. Purl 1 row. + +First pattern row: with crochet hook make 1 double crochet (see page 6 ) +in the first stitch. * 1 d. c. through two taken together, 1 d. c. +through the back of the same two and repeat from * ending with 1 d. c. +in the last stitch. + +Second row: k. 1, increase, purl the row, ending by purling the last 2 +stitches together. + +Third row: like first. Purl three rows. + +Repeat the first and second rows. + +Ninth row: k. 43, * slip 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped stitch over and +repeat from *, k. 43. + +Tenth row: p. 40, slip 1, k. 2 tog. pass the slipped stitch over, p. 2, +slip 1, k. 2 tog. pass the slipped stitch over, p. 40. + +Eleventh row: (crochet) 1 d. c. * 1 d. c. through 2, 1 d. c. in the back +of same 2 and repeat from * 17 times, more. 1 d. c. through 2, 1 d. c. +through next 2 stitches, 1 d. c through next 2 and 1 d. c. in the back +of same 2 (center) and reverse directions. + +Twelfth row: purl 37, slip 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped stitch over, +slip 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped stitch over, purl 37. + +On the thirteenth row the instep tab is commenced. Knit 33, k. 2 tog., +k. 6, k. 2 tog. Turn. + +Fourteenth row: slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 tog. Turn. + +Fifteenth row: slip 1, knit 6, knit 2 tog. Turn. + +Repeat the last 2 rows. + +Nineteenth row: slip 1, k. 6, k. 2 tog., k. 1. Turn. + +Twentieth row: slip 1, purl 7, purl 2 tog., p. 1. Turn. + +Twenty-first row: slip 1, k. 8, k. 2 tog. Turn. + +Twenty-second row: slip 1, p. 8. p. 2 tog. Turn. + +Repeat the last 2 rows until there are 40 stitches, in all, on the pins; +then continue along the row, knitting the 15 stitches on the left hand +needle. Purl 1 row. + +First leg row: (crochet) 1 d. c., * 1 d. c. through 2, 1 d. c. in the +back of same 2 and repeat from * 1 d. c. in final stitch. Purl 1 row. + +Repeat first row. + +[Illustration] + +Fourth row: purl 1, increase, purl the row ending by purling the last 2 +stitches together. + +Fifth row: k. 1, increase, knit along row, increase k. 1. + +Sixth row: purl 3, increase, purl along the row, ending by increasing, +then purling last 3. + +Repeat the first and second rows, twice, then repeat the fifth and sixth +rows. + +Repeat these last 6 (six) pattern rows, twice, then make four plain rows +of alternate knitting and purling and bind off. Sew up seams. + +[Illustration: + + Bordered Scarf in Cro-Knitting +] + + + + + BORDERED SCARF IN CRO-KNITTING. + + Materials Required: + + 9 skeins Bear Brand Shetland Floss (12 skeins to the box). + 2 skeins contrasting color Shetland Floss and + 3 skeins same color Bear Brand Felicity Floss. + 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 13. + 1 amber crochet hook No. 13 (14 inches long). + + +Using two threads of the principal color cast on 50 stitches loosely and +knit 14 rows (7 purls) in plain garter stitch. For the first stitch of +each row, insert the needle as if to purl, slip stitch and put thread +back under the point of the pin, thus forming a chain edge. The work +should measure fifteen inches across and be three inches in depth. + +The Cro-Knitting is next to be made. Draw two threads of the contrasting +color through (one of Shetland and one of Felicity) but do not break off +the principal color: knit two rows in plain garter stitch; then using +same color and crochet hook make _first pattern row_. Insert the hook +through the loop on the knitting pin as though it were a second knitting +pin, holding the wool over the fingers of the left hand. Draw wool +through first stitch and chain 2; slip the knitted stitch from the pin. +* Wool over from back to front and pick up a loop in second stitch on +pin, wool over and through 2; wool over in same way and pick up a loop +in first stitch, wool over and through two, slip the 2 knitted stitches +that have been worked into from the pin and repeat from * all along row; +ending with ch. 2 in final stitch as first stitch was made. + +Second pattern row: with same wool and knitting pin, slip 1, * over, +knit 2 tog. and repeat from * all along row, knit final stitch. When +knitting from the crochet hook the point of the hook must be kept +pointing downward to avoid catching the wool. + +Third pattern row: with principal color knit 1, * knit 1, knit the back +of next stitch and repeat from * ending with knit 1 in the final stitch. +Make three plain garter stitch rows in the principal color, followed by +2 garter stitch rows in the contrasting color. These 8 rows constitute +the pattern and are repeated five times for the border at each end of +the scarf. + +The center of scarf is plain garter stitch and is 45 inches long. Repeat +border, then make 14 rows, in garter stitch and bind off. + +Pick up all the stitches along one side of the scarf with principal +color and crochet hook, taking up both stitches of chain as one stitch +and taking up 3 stitches in each of the stripes of contrasting color; +knit off with knitting pin, making 4 rows of garter stitch, then draw +through contrasting color, dropping principal color and make two rows of +garter stitch, next make the three pattern rows, then knit 3 rows of +principal color in garter stitch and crochet off with slip stitch, +binding off that side of scarf; repeat for the other side. + +Make a fringe across the ends as follows: * insert the crochet hook in +first stitch on bottom of scarf and with double thread of principal +color, chain 10 loosely, pull up long loop on needle,—wool over, insert +hook into last chain made and pull up long loop, repeat from—four times, +wool over and through all loops on hook, chain 1, pull up long loop and +catch with slip stitch in chain in which cluster was made, make a tight +s. c. around chain. Chain 10, skip 7 s. c. on bottom of scarf, 1 s. c. +in the next and repeat from * all across the end. With two threads of +contrasting color, make 1 s. c. in fourth stitch and repeat fringe as +made in principal color. To gain the cross effect, slip chain made and +ball of wool through long loop of principal color before making the s. +c. in the bottom of scarf. The fringe for each tassel consists of 10 +loops of 20 chain stitches made with single thread to correspond. + +[Illustration: + + Empire Scarf in Cro-Knitting +] + + + + + EMPIRE SCARF IN CRO-KNITTING. + + Materials Required: + + 7 skeins Bear Brand Shetland Floss. + 9 skeins Bear Brand Felicity Floss. + 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 9 (14 in. long). + 1 amber crochet hook, No. 9, same length. + + +(NOTE—_These directions are based on 12 skeins of Shetland floss to the +box. If the “8 skeins to the box” floss is used, the number of skeins +required will be proportionately less._) + +Wind the wools in separate balls. + +Using a thread of each wool and the knitting pins, cast on 38 stitches, +loosely. Knit two rows. + +First pattern row: using crochet hook, knit two stitches, wool over and +pick up a loop around third stitch of first foundation row, wool over +and draw a loop through next stitch on pin, wool over and through 4 +loops on hook, slip stitch from knitting pin thus forming one cluster. +Knit the next stitch, * wool over, skip one stitch on first row and make +cluster, (as before) around the next stitch and the stitch on pin, knit +1 stitch and repeat from * to the end of the row. + +Second pattern row: k. 2 in the first and last stitches of preceding row +and k. 1 in each intervening stitch. + +Third pattern row: using crochet hook, k. 1, 1 cluster around end stitch +of second pattern row and stitch on pin, k. 1, then work like first row, +ending the row with knit 2. + +Fourth row: like second. + +Repeat these four rows until the scarf is the desired width, about 20 +inches, then omit the widening stitches on the knitted rows, making all +the crocheted rows like first row, until the work is 68 inches in +length. Make second end of scarf to match first end; decreasing on each +knitted row by knitting together the two first and two last stitches, +being careful to preserve the pattern. When there are again 38 stitches +on needle, bind off. + +Down the side of scarf work scallop as follows: * 1 single crochet +stitch in first stitch, ch. 2, 1 double crochet stitch in same stitch, +skip enough space to make work smooth and repeat from * to the end. This +is ordinary crocheting. + +Across the end work in knot stitch as follows: * draw up the loop on +hook about ¾ in., wool over and through loop this time very short since +it is really the first loop of an s. c. Take up the second loop of the +s. c. through the new long loop. Pull wool through the 2 loops on needle +and the s. c. (or knot as it is called) is finished. The present loop on +the needle should be pulled up long and corresponds to the first loop +made. When it is pulled up, hold the knot just made between the thumb +and forefinger and repeat directions from *. Skip one stitch on edge of +scarf and make 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from beginning all across +edge. Make scallop on second side and finish second end like first. + +Cut the wool for fringe in ten-inch lengths and knot 4 threads of each +wool through the s. c. in the center of each knot stitch loop. + +[Illustration] + + + + + SCHOOL BAG IN LATTICE WORK. + + Materials Required: + + 10 balls Bear Macramé, No. 100. + 1 wood knitting pin, No. 1. + 1 Star crochet hook, No. 1. + 2 bone rings, at least 2 inches in diameter. + + +Using crochet hook, chain 101; turn, skip 1 chain and make 1 single +crochet stitch (1 s. c.) in each chain to the end. The work should +measure full 20 inches. If a deeper bag is desired, the row should +contain a multiple of 4 stitches, but more material will be required. + +Second row: turn and make 1 slip stitch, as follows, on the back thread +of each stitch of preceding row: insert the hook and draw cord through +stitch and the loop on hook. + +Third row: turn, 1 s. c. in the back thread of each of the s. c. +stitches of first row, being careful to work into first stitch which is +inclined to draw down and be overlooked. + +Lattice row: draw up a long loop and slip it on the knitting pin, draw +working thread in place. The pin is held under right arm firmly. Hold +wrong side of work toward you and with crochet hook * pull a long loop +of cord through the double threads of second stitch, slip it on pin, +draw working thread in place and repeat from * in each stitch of row. +100 loops on pin. Slip loops from pin. + +Fifth row: turn, * draw the third loop through the two first loops and +in it make 1 s. c., draw fourth loop through and in it make 1 s. c., +then 1 s. c. in each of the first and second loops, thus forming the +lattice. Repeat from * all along row. Turn. Repeat second and third +rows, for the latter taking up the back thread of stitches of fifth row. +The second, third, fourth and fifth rows constitute one pattern and are +repeated until there are 14 lattice rows: then repeat the second and +third rows. Fold in center and slip stitch together working on right +side. + +Make second bag in same manner. + +Around the top of each bag crochet, as follows: beginning in the center +heavy bar, of one side make 1 s. c. * ch. 2, 2 s. c. in next heavy bar +and repeat from * all around ending with 1 s. c. in the center bar in +which round was commenced, join and fasten off for one bag. For the +second bag, after joining, draw up loop and work in knot stitch, as +follows: draw up the loop on hook a _full_ ½ inch, cord over and through +loop this time very short since it is really the first loop of a single +crochet. Take up the second loop of the s. c. through the new long loop. +Pull cord through the 2 loops on needle and the s. c. (or knot as it +called) is finished. The present loop on the needle should be pulled up +long and corresponds to first loop made. When it is pulled up, hold the +knot just made between the thumb and forefinger and repeat from *. Skip +4 chains on the top of bag and make 1 s. c. in each of the next 2 +stitches and repeat from beginning all around the top of bag. + +Second row: make 3 loops and 3 knots, as before, to turn 1 s. c. through +the double thread on right side of last knot of first row and another s. +c. on left side of knot (skipping the s. c. worked in first row), * then +2 loops and 2 knots catching down in next knot of second row, with 2 s. +c. Repeat from * across row, a perfect square of 4 loops being formed +every time the loops are caught down. + +Repeat second row until the center of knot stitch measures 12 inches +then slip rings over and join on second bag to match first. + +Around the opening formed by the knot stitch, make * 1 slip stitch in +knot, ch. 3 and repeat from * all around. + + + + + AFGHAN WITH DIAMOND STRIPE. + + Materials Required: + + 13 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 8-fold. + 9 skeins contrasting color, Germantown, 8-fold. + 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 9 (10 in. long). + 1 amber crochet hook, No. 9, same length. + + +(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If +the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required +will be proportionately less._) + +The Cro-Knitting stripe is made first. Cast on 26 stitches with the +principal color. Knit two plain rows. + +Third row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 tog. and repeat from * across row, k. last +stitch. + +Fourth row: k. 2, * k. the over st., k. 1 and repeat from *. + +Knit two rows plain. + +Seventh row: with contrasting color and crochet hook, pull a loop +through the first stitch, ch. 1 tightly, k. 1, wool over twice, pick up +a loop, inserting hook from first to second opening in third row, wool +over, through 2 loops on needle, wool over, pick up another loop in same +space, wool over and through 3 loops on needle, again wool over and +through 3 loops on needle, * k. the next two stitches tog., wool over +twice, pick up a loop from the second to third opening in third row, +wool over and through 2, wool over and pick up another loop in same +place, wool over and through 3, again wool over and through 3 and repeat +from * across row, k. the last 2 stitches. + +Eighth row: with same wool and knitting pin, k. 3. * on the contrasting +thread before the next stitch knit 1 stitch, then knit next stitch and +repeat from *, knit last stitch. + +With principal color knit 4 rows. + +These last ten rows constitute one pattern. + +Repeat 18 times when the stripe should be about 31 inches long and seven +inches wide. + +Bind off. Make 2 more stripes in same manner. + +[Illustration] + +Diamond Stripe: cast on 13 stitches. + +First row: knit plain. + +Second row: k. 2, p. 9, k. 2. + +Third row: knit plain. + +Fourth row: like second. + +Fifth row: k. 6, p. 1, k. 6. + +Sixth row: k. 2, p. 3, k. 3, p. 3, k. 2. + +Seventh row: k. 4, p. 5, k. 4. + +Eighth row: k. 2, p. 1, k. 7, p. 1, k. 2. + +Ninth row: like seventh. + +Tenth row: like sixth. + +Eleventh row: like fifth. + +Repeat from the beginning of the second row. + +These ten rows constitute one pattern and are made over and over again +until stripe is same length as Cro-Knitting stripes. Make another stripe +in same way. + +Join the stripes alternately, with single crochet stitches worked on +wrong side of afghan. + +Border. Across each end, with contrasting color, make scallops, as +follows: 1 s. c. in first stitch, ch. 2, * wool over needle twice, skip +about 4 stitches, (arranging scallops so that there are 3 on the +Cro-Knitting stripe and 1 in the center of Diamond stripe) pick up a +loop, wool over and through 2, wool over and pick up another loop in +same place, wool over and through 2, wool over and pick up third loop in +same place, wool over and through 2, wool over and through 4, wool over +and through 2, ch. 2 and repeat from * twice, 3 clusters in same stitch, +ch. 1, skip the required space, 1 s. c., ch. 1 and make same scallop all +across. + +With principal color make * 1 s. c. in first space of scallop, ch. 2, — +1 d. c. around the post at the top of first cluster, ch. 2, 1 s. c. in +next space. Repeat from — twice. Ch. 2, 1 s. c. around the s. c. of row +below, ch. 2 and repeat from * all across scallops. + +Down each side, work as follows: * 1 s. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c. around the s. +c. just made, skip enough space to make work lie flat, 1 s. c., ch. 1, +skip as before and repeat. + +[Illustration: + + Persian Scarf +] + + + + + PERSIAN SCARF. + + Materials Required: + + 13 skeins Bear Brand Shetland Floss. + 4 skeins Bear Brand Persian Lamb Wool + 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 13 (14 in. long). + 1 amber crochet hook No. 13, same length. + + +(NOTE—_These directions are based on 12 skeins of Shetland floss to the +box. If the “8 skeins to the box” floss is used, the number of skeins +required will be proportionately less._) + +Wind the Shetland Floss in separate balls and use two threads. Cast on +200 stitches which should make length of scarf two yards. + +First row: with two threads of Shetland and one of Persian Lamb used +together knit each stitch: turn. + +Second row: divide threads holding the Persian Lamb at the back of work, +as regular knitting thread is used and the two threads of Shetland in +front of work, toward left hand. * With crochet hook, pull a loop of +Persian Lamb through first stitch, drop stitch from knitting pin then +throw Shetland Floss over hook and draw it through the loop of Persian +Lamb just made. Repeat from * in each stitch of previous row, always +keeping Shetland Floss in front of work. + +Repeat the first and second rows, twice. + +Seventh row: drop the Persian Lamb wool temporarily, add two more +threads of Shetland Floss and using the four threads together knit 2 +rows in plain garter stitch. + +Repeat first and second rows, then two rows as seventh row was made and +again repeat first and second rows. + +This completes the border. Fasten off the Persian Lamb wool and +substitute for it two threads of Shetland Floss. + +Repeat first and second rows alternately until there are 20 ridges, +which should measure full 12 inches for the center of the scarf. + +Repeat the border as made on the other edge and bind off. + +Finish ends as follows: with two threads of Shetland Floss make 1 single +crochet stitch in first stitch, * skip about an inch and a half along +edge and make 13 treble crochet stitches (winding the thread over the +hook twice) in next stitch, skip same space on edge and make 1 s. c. in +the next stitch and repeat from *. There should be six of these large +shells across end. Do not break off wool but work along the side of +scarf, as follows: * 1 s. c., ch. 3, 1 s. c. around the post of the +first s. c., skip 1 st. and repeat from * all along. Work the shells +across second end and the scallop along second side, then fasten off. + +With Persian Lamb wool work across ends, as follows: fasten wool in +first stitch of previous row, * pull out loop 2 inches, pull wool +through loop and make a tight ch. stitch to fasten it and repeat from * +twice more, make 1 s. c. in same space on edge where wool was fastened 1 +s. c. in first space of shell, ch. 1., skip 1 space, 1 s. c. in next +space of shell and repeat until the center stitch has been reached. +There pull up loop and fasten as before, make another two-inch loop and +fasten; then 1 s. c. in the middle space of shell. * Ch. 1, skip 1 +space, 1 s. c. in next space and repeat from * twice, then 1 s. c. in +the single crochet stitch between shells and repeat from the beginning +of row. + + + + + POLISH AFGHAN. + + Materials Required: + + 51 skeins Bear Brand Zephyr Germantown, 8-fold. + 24 skeins contrasting color, 8-fold Germantown. + 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 9. + 1 amber crochet hook, No. 9 (14 inches long). + + +(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If +the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required +will be proportionately less._) + +STRIPE IN CRO-KNITTING: with the principal color cast on 30 stitches and +knit three rows. Do not break off wool. + +Change to the contrasting color and knit 2 rows; then using same color +and crochet hook make first pattern row. Insert the hook through the +loop on the knitting pin as though it were a second knitting pin holding +the wool over the fingers of the left hand. Draw wool through first +stitch and chain 2. Slip the knitted stitch from needle. * Wool over +from back to front and pick up a loop in second stitch on pin, wool over +and through 2; wool over in same way and pick up a loop in first stitch, +wool over and through 2, slip the 2 knitted stitches that have been +worked into from the pin and repeat from * all along row; ending with +ch. 2 in final stitch as first stitch was made. + +Second pattern row: with same wool and knitting pin, slip 1, * over, +knit 2 together and repeat from * all along row. Knit final stitch. When +knitting from the crochet hook, the point of the hook must be kept +pointing downward to avoid catching the wool. + +Third row: with principal color, knit 1, * knit 1, knit the back of next +stitch and repeat from * ending with knit 1 in the final stitch. + +Make three plain garter stitch rows in the principal color, followed by +2 garter stitch rows in the contrasting color. + +These 8 rows constitute one pattern and are repeated over and over until +the stripe measures 68 inches. Finish with the garter stitch row of +principal color. This stripe should be 8½ inches wide. + +[Illustration] + +Make three more stripes in Cro-Knitting. + +Braided Twist stripe: with the principal color, cast on 19 stitches and +knit first row. + +Second row: knit 5, purl 9, k. 5. + +Third row: k. 5, slip the next 3 stitches on to a spare pin and drop +them _in front_ of the work, k. 3, knit the 3 stitches slipped, k. 8. + +Fourth row: like second. + +Fifth row: knit plain. + +Sixth row: like second. + +Seventh row: k. 8., slip the next 3 stitches on to extra pin and drop +them _behind_ the work, k. 3, knit the 3 stitches slipped off, k. 5. + +Eighth row: like second. + +Repeat these eight rows until the stripe is same length as the +Cro-Knitting stripes. Make 2 more stripes of same length. + +Join the stripes, one of each kind alternately, working with principal +color in s. c. and on the wrong side. + +The border around entire afghan is made of the braided twist stripe as +the connecting stripes were made. Each corner is mitered as follows: +cast on one stitch and in it knit 1 stitch, then knit a second stitch on +the back thread of same stitch, thus increasing, turn, knit 2 stitches +in first stitch, one stitch in next. + +Continue increasing 1 stitch on each row always on the same side and +being careful to carry out the directions for the pattern until there +are 19 stitches on the pin. Keep outside edge straight. Then work until +stripe is desired length and decrease by knitting together 2 stitches at +the same end of every row as the increasing was done. Sew up the mitered +corners and sew or crochet border on working from wrong side, as before. + + + + + ANGORA ROSEBUD CAP. + + + (Six months size.) + + Materials Required: + + 3 balls (½ oz.) Three Rabbit Angora wool, or 9 small balls. + 1 amber crochet hook, No. 3. + + +Work rather loosely. + +Ch. 3 and join in a ring. Make six single crochet stitches (6 s. c.) in +the ring. Do not join as the work is done around and around both threads +of stitch of previous round being taken up throughout the work. + +Second round: 2 s. c. in each stitch. + +Third round: * 2 s. c. in first stitch, 1 s. c. in each of the next two +stitches and repeat from * all around. + +Fourth round: * 2 s. c. in first stitch, 1 s. c. in each of the next 4 +stitches and repeat from * all around. + +Continue working, increasing just enough to keep the work perfectly +flat, until the crown is four inches in diameter. For a larger size this +diameter must be increased. There are 12 rounds in the model cap. At the +end of last round, turn and work back for 10 stitches (about 2 inches) +to form the neck rows. Turn, * skip one stitch, 1 s. c. in next and +repeat from * 5 stitches on neck. Put one more s. c. in last stitch then +work around crown to the other end of the neck rows, putting 1 s. c. in +each stitch of previous round. Turn. Work back and forth to form front +of cap without widening for 24 rows, in all, being careful to make first +and last stitches of each row rather tighter than the rest so that the +neck of cap is kept a good shape. There are 56 stitches on these rows on +the model cap, which measure 12½ inches from end to end. The front +should now be the desired depth, if not add more rows. + +[Illustration] + +Final row of front: 19 s. c., 1 s. c. through the next two stitches +taken together, 3 s. c., narrow as before, 4 s. c., narrow, 3 s. c., +narrow, 19 s. c. + +Chain 3, turn and work a row of ribbon holes across neck part, as +follows: * skip 2 rows, 1 d. c. in the end of next row, ch. 1 and repeat +from * all across, skipping one stitch on bottom of crown. + +Border: ch. 3, * 1 s. c. in first stitch of front, chain 3, skip 3 and +repeat from * all around front and neck, skipping fewer stitches at +corners, to prevent capping. + +Final round: * 1 s. c. in space, chain 3, one d. c. in same space and +repeat from * all around. + +[Illustration: + + Dresden Set + + Coat, Cap and Bootees +] + + + + + DRESDEN BABY COAT. + + Materials Required: + + 3 skeins Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold. + 2 skeins green, Glossilla Rope, No. 264. + 1 skein pink, Glossilla Rope, No. 200. + 2 skeins blue, Glossilla Rope, No. 108. + 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2 (10 in. long). + 1 amber crochet hook, No. 2 (10 inches long). + + +(NOTE—_These directions are based on 20 skeins to the box Saxony. If the +“12 skeins to the box” wool is used the amount will be proportionately +less._) + +The yoke is made first. Chain 80 and work in afghan stitch (see Bear +Brand Manual of Handiwork) for fifteen rows. The shoulders are next to +be formed. Pick up the first 29 stitches and on them make 2 rows, then 2 +more rows, on each of these rows picking up an extra stitch at the neck +end; then with another ball of wool add a chain of 16 there and on the +47 stitches work 16 rows. + +On the next row, work as follows: pick up perpendicular bar as usual +then draw wool through stitch on needle, thus working off. Continue in +this way until 18 stitches remain and on these stitches work the front +tab. This should measure eleven inches, from the neck to end. Work off +stitches, as before. Go back to neck and omitting 22 stitches there, +work the second shoulder on the remaining 29 stitches, taking care to +keep them opposites. + +For the lower part of jacket, using the knitting pins, cast on 140 +stitches. Knit three rows. + +Fourth row: with crochet hook make 1 d. c. (see page 6) in first stitch, +* 1 d. c. through the next 2 stitches (drawing up the loop high), keep +stitches on pin, pick up a loop through the back of the same two +stitches then slip them off pin and repeat from * ending row with 1 d. +c. in the final stitch. These four rows constitute one pattern and are +repeated over and over until sixteen patterns have been made. The arm +holes are next to be made. On the fourth row of next pattern make 1 d. +c. then 15 clusters as usual, then run all the remaining stitches on a +thread or extra pin and on these 31 stitches work eight short rows, in +all, and bind off. Take 31 stitches from the end of thread and make +second front to match first. Bind off 4 stitches at each end of the +remaining stitches for the armhole and on the 70 stitches left, make the +back the same length as the fronts. + +Sleeve. Cast on 48 stitches and make 11 patterns and three extra rows of +plain knitting: then slip on hook and make 9 rows of afghan stitch for +the cuff. Work off. Make second sleeve like first and sew up. + +Around the neck make a row of ribbon holes, as follows: * 1 d. c., ch. +1, skip 1 and repeat from * all across, make 1 row of s. c. and fasten +off. Baste the lower part of jacket to the yoke, holding the extra +fullness across the back and fronts evenly. Join to yoke with slip +stitches worked on wrong side. Sew sleeves in place. + +Work pearl edge on all the edges and around the yoke and top of cuffs, +as follows: 1 s. c. around the post of foundation, ch. 3, wool over hook +and pick up a loop through s. c. just made, wool over and pick up +another loop in same place * skip 1 stitch on foundation, draw a loop +around the next stitch and through all the loops on hook, ch. 3. Wool +over and through the third ch. from hook, wool over and through the same +place and repeat from *. + +Embroider the Dresden figures, as illustrated. + + + + + DRESDEN BABY CAP. + + Materials Required: + + 2 skeins Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold. + 1 skein each, Glossilla Rope, Nos. 264, 200, 108. + 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2 (10 in. long.) + 1 amber crochet hook, No. 2 (10 inches long). + + +Chain 16 and work in afghan stitch for 2 rows. On the third row widen +one stitch when beginning and ending row by picking up an extra loop. +Continue to work in afghan stitch, widening, as before, on the sixth, +eleventh, fifteenth and twentieth rows. On each of the next seven rows +narrow one stitch at each end of row by picking up 2 perpendicular +threads together. This completes the back of cap. + +Front band: chain 122 and make 13 rows in afghan stitch, finishing final +row as directed for Dresden Baby Coat. + +The center of cap is in Cro-Knitting. It is begun at the front. Using +the knitting pins cast on 118 stitches and work as directed for lower +part of coat. + +On the third row of second pattern, work as follows: k. 28, * k. 2 in +the next stitch, k. 1 and repeat from * until 28 stitches remain, k. 28. +Continue without further increase until there are 11 patterns, in all, +then knit 3 rows and bind off. + +Join the Cro-Knitted center to the front with slip stitches worked on +the wrong side. Draw the other edge in on a gathering thread of wool and +sew around the back of crown. + +[Illustration: + + DETAIL OF DRESDEN EMBROIDERY + + × _Green Glossilla_ + _Pink Glossilla_ ◈ _Blue + Glossilla_ +] + +Around the entire cap and the joinings work in pearls, as directed for +coat. + +Embroider the Dresden figures, as illustrated. + +Line the cap with silk. + + + + + DRESDEN BOOTEES. + + Materials Required: + + 1 skein Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold. + 1 skein each, Glossilla Rope, Nos. 264, 200, 108. + 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2 (10 in. long.) + 1 amber crochet hook, No. 2. + + +Using the crochet hook, chain 12 and work in afghan stitch for 27 rows. +On the next row narrow by picking up the second and third perpendicular +threads together, also the two just before the final stitch. Make one +more row in same way and work off as directed. + +Fasten wool to the tenth row from point, ch. 26 and join to same place +on other side of afghan stripe. On these stitches the foot is to be +made. Make 1 s. c. in each stitch all around leg and tab, putting an +extra s. c. in each corner of the tab. + +Continue working around and around in s. c., taking up both threads of +stitch of preceding round until 4 rounds, in all, have been made, on +each round putting 2 s. c. in the stitch on each side of the center +stitch of tab. + +On the next round leave 3 stitches in the center of tab, working 1 s. c. +in each and increase in the stitches on each side of them, in the +regular way. Sixth and seventh rounds: narrow each side of center stitch +by skipping a stitch there. Eighth and ninth rounds: narrow at toe and +also at heel by skipping 1 stitch at each side of center of heel. + +Turn bootee and join with s. c. + +Make a row of ribbon holes around the back of bootee, as follows: fasten +wool in the 12th row from point of afghan stitch tab * ch. 1, skip 1, 1 +d. c. in next and repeat from * all across. + +With the knitting pin pick up a loop in each stitch of preceding row and +knit 2 rows. + +First pattern row: which should be worked on the wrong side of bootee. +With crochet hook make 1 d. c. in first stitch, * 1 d. c. through the +next 2 stitches (drawing up the loop high), keep stitches on pin, pick +up a loop through the back of the same 2 stitches then slip them off pin +and repeat from * ending row with 1 d. c. in the final stitch. + +Knit 3 rows. These four rows constitute one pattern. Repeat until there +are six patterns in all, and bind off. + +Work all around tab and top of bootee with pearls, as directed for coat. + +Embroider with Dresden figures, as illustrated and trim with ribbon. + + + + + KNITTED ANGORA BOOTEES. + + Materials Required: + + 2 balls (½ oz.) Three Rabbit Angora Wool or 8 small balls. + 1 pair Bear Brand nickeled knitting pins, No. 8. + 1 small bone crochet hook. + + +Cast on 30 stitches. Purl 1 row, knit 1 row, * purl 2 rows, knit 2 rows. +Repeat from * twice, then purl 2 rows. + +Seventeenth row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 together and repeat from *, ending +row with k. 1. Purl one row. + +The foot of the bootee is in plain garter stitch throughout. First row: +k. 14, over, k. 2, over, k. 14. Second row: plain. + +Repeat the first and second rows until 21 rows in all have been made for +the foot. On each widened row there will be one more stitch on each side +of the widenings that are required to shape the front. The 2 center +stitches are knitted between widenings always. + +On the 52 stitches, on needle, knit 5 rows. + +Twenty-seventh and twenty-ninth rows: narrow by knitting the second and +third stitches together and the two next to last stitches together. All +the even numbered rows are plain, without increase or decrease. + +[Illustration] + +Thirty-first row: k. 1, narrow (k. 2 tog.), k. 16, narrow, k. 6, narrow, +k. 16, narrow, k. 1. + +Thirty-third row: k. 1, narrow, k. 14, narrow, k. 6, narrow, k. 14, +narrow, k. 1. + +Thirty-fifth row: k. 1, narrow, k. 12, narrow, k. 2, narrow, k. 2, +narrow, k. 12, narrow, k. 1. + +Bind off. Sew up the back seam and sole: then crochet an edge of tiny +shells around the top, as follows: * 1 s. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c. in same +place, skip 2 stitches and repeat from *. + +[Illustration: + + Dresden Baby Afghan +] + + + + + DRESDEN BABY AFGHAN. + + Materials Required: + + 11 skeins white, Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. + 2 skeins green Glossilla Rope, No. 264. + 2 skeins blue Glossilla Rope, No. 108. + 1 skein pink Glossilla Rope, No. 200. + 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 4, 14 inches long. + 1 amber crochet hook No. 4, same length. + + +(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If +the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required +will be proportionately less._) + +The Cro-Knitted center of afghan is made first. Cast on 98 stitches and +work as directed for lower part of “Dresden Baby Coat” (see page 25) +until 40 patterns have been made. The work should be about 21 inches +wide and 28 inches deep. Bind off. + +BORDER: chain 108 and work in afghan stitch as directed for “Afghan +Stitch Stripe” (see page 36) for 7 rows, widening by picking up an extra +stitch at each end of every row. The first of these rows should be the +exact width of the Cro-Knitted center. Final row: pick up loop, as +usual, then draw wool through loop on hook. + +For the afghan stitch side stripe, chain 7 and make stripe same length +as center, narrowing one stitch (by picking up last two bars together) +on the _same_ side of each of the last seven rows to form the mitered +corner. Make another stripe in same manner, taking care to keep them +opposites. Sew up the mitered corners, then baste border to center. Use +the wrong side of the fourth row of center as the right side of the +work. Holding the right side of afghan stitch border toward you, make 1 +short, double crochet stitch (1 s. d. c.) as follows through the first +afghan stitch and the center: wool over and draw a loop through stitch, +wool over and through all three loops on hook. Repeat in each stitch on +all three sides of afghan, putting extra stitches at corners, to prevent +capping. Holding the wrong side of work toward you, make a round of s. +d. c. in same manner on the edge of afghan stitch border. Turn. + +Work back around the three sides in double crochet stitches, putting the +stitches between the s. d. c. stitches of preceding round. Put 3 d. c. +in each corner. Fasten off. + +Go back to other end and make puffs around the three sides, as follows: +* 5 d. c. in the first stitch, drop loop and insert hook through the +first d. c. made, draw loop through, ch. 1, skip 1 stitch of preceding +round and repeat from *. After the ch. 1 draw loop, on hook, up a little +to prevent work from drawing in at the top. Do not skip any stitches at +the corners, but skip 2 stitches between puffs when working across the +bottom of afghan. Fasten off. + +Go back, as before, * 1 d. c. in the top of puff, 1 d. c. in the next +chain and repeat from * on all three sides. Extra stitches in corners. +Fasten off. + +Final round: 1 s. c. in first stitch, * ch. 4—wool over and pick up a +loop in first ch. made, wool over and through 2 loops on hook, repeat +from—three times, wool over and through all 5 loops on hook, ch. 1, skip +2 stitches, 1 s. c. in next and repeat from *. Skip only one stitch on +each side of corners, to prevent capping. + +TURN OVER: ch. 122 and work 3 rows in afghan stitch. On the fourth row +narrow by picking up second and third bars together, also the two bars +just preceding the final bar together. Repeat these four rows, twice; +then narrow on every third row three times. Narrow on every second row +until there are 30 rows in all, then work off as final row of afghan +border was done. Sew to top of afghan, then make the five border rounds, +as before, beginning with the short, double crochet round. + +Embroider as illustrated. + +_For detail of embroidery see page 26._ + +[Illustration: + + Child’s Norfolk +] + + + + + CHILD’S NORFOLK. + + Materials Required: + + 11 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. + 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 7 (14 in. long). + 1 amber crochet hook, No. 7, same length. + + +(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If +the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required +will be proportionately less._) + +Cast on 46 stitches for the lower edge of sleeve. K. 2, p. 2 for 15 +rows. Knit 40 rows (20 purls). Knit the first stitch on needle +throughout. On the 41st row increase by knitting 2 stitches in the first +and last stitches of row. Continue to increase, in this way, on every +fifth row until there are 56 stitches on the pin, then work, without +increasing, until there are 90 rows (45 purls) in all, for the sleeve. +Cast on 70 stitches, knit back on these stitches and the 56 sleeve +stitches, then cast on 70 more stitches. On these 196 stitches knit 30 +rows. On the next row, k. 32, bind off 6 stitches for belt opening of +front, knit until 42 stitches remain unworked, then bind off 6 stitches +for belt opening in back. On the next row, cast on 12 stitches which +were bound off for openings. + +The Cro-Knitting band is next to be made. Beginning at the lower edge of +the front make first fancy row, as follows: with crochet hook pull a +loop through first stitch on knitting pin, slip loop from pin * pull a +loop through next stitch, pull another loop through the back of same +stitch, slip stitch from pin, pull a loop through front of next stitch +and another through back of same stitch, hold stitch on pin, wool over +and through 4 loops on hook, ch. 1, pull a loop through back stitch of +cluster, then slip stitch from pin, wool over and repeat from * until +one stitch remains, do not throw wool over after last cluster, draw loop +through final stitch. + +Second fancy row: k. 2, * k. the next stitch and the stitch that was +thrown over together, k. 1 and repeat from * until 3 stitches remain, k. +3. + +Knit 2 plain rows. Repeat the two fancy rows, knit 2 plain rows and +again repeat the two fancy rows. This completes the band. It will be +noticed that the wrong side of the first fancy row is shown on the right +side of band. + +Knit 11 rows on the first two of these rows, make openings for belt as +made on the other side of Cro-Knitting band. The last row ends at the +lower edge of back. Knit 98 stitches for the length of back and run +remaining stitches on to a thread; turn, k. the first 2 stitches +together then knit to the end of row. At the end of next row knit the +last 2 stitches together to shape the neck. Knit 22 rows, then 2 rows, +increasing 1 stitch on each row, at neck end. Run these stitches on an +extra pin or thread, but do not fasten off wool. Take another ball and +make right front. Cast on 94 stitches and knit 4 rows, make two fancy +rows of Cro-Knitting, knit 1 row, on the next row make button holes, as +follows: k. 3, * bind off 3, k. 8 and repeat from *. Eight button holes, +in all. On the next row cast on 3 stitches opposite those bound off. +Knit one row then repeat the two fancy rows. Knit 8 rows, then 4 rows +increasing one stitch at the neck end of each row. The last row should +end at the neck. Fasten off wool. + +Take the stitches of the back from the thread on to knitting pin +beginning with the stitch at the lower edge of back and with the ball of +wool left there work to the lower edge of the front. Knit 12 plain rows +not forgetting the belt openings, then repeat Cro-Knitting band as made +on first side. Make second side of back and sleeve to match first side. +After finishing the 15 rows of k. 2, p. 2 ribbing on second sleeve, knit +2 plain rows then repeat the Cro-Knitting band as made on body of +garment, making four patterns instead of three to form the turn back +cuff. Make two extra plain rows and bind off. + +Pick up the 46 stitches at bottom of first sleeve and on them knit +second cuff to match first one made. + +Take the 98 stitches from thread and on them knit the left front, as +follows: knit 4 rows, decreasing by knitting 2 stitches together at the +neck end of each row, then knit 16 rows plain and bind off on wrong +side. + +Pick up 52 stitches around neck and knit 4 rows, 2 fancy Cro-Knitting +rows, knit 1 row. Eighth row: k. 3, bind off 3, knit to end. On the next +row cast on the 3 stitches bound off for the button hole. Knit 1 row, 2 +fancy rows, knit 1 row and bind off. + +Belt: cast on 134 stitches and knit 4 rows, 2 fancy rows, k. 4 rows, 2 +fancy rows, k. 2 rows then bind off on wrong side. + +Sew up under arm seams and sleeves. + +[Illustration: + + Star Stitch Scarf in Cro-Knitting +] + + + + + STAR STITCH SCARF IN CRO-KNITTING. + + Materials Required: + + 7 skeins white, Bear Brand Shetland Floss (12 skeins to the box). + 2 skeins of darkest contrasting color. + 1 skein each, of two next lighter shades. + 1 pair No. 11 amber knitting pins (14 in. long). + 1 amber crochet hook No. 11, same length. + + +The entire scarf is made of two threads of Shetland Floss. Wind the +balls separately. + +Using two threads of white cast on 187 stitches, loosely, for the length +of scarf which should be about two yards. Knit 2 rows: then drop one +thread of white and fasten on a thread of the lightest shade of Floss +and knit 2 rows. Make two rows of next shade and 2 rows of the darkest +shade always carrying one thread of white wool. For the center of stripe +make 2 rows of two threads of the darkest shade. Work back reversing the +shades to match first half, finishing stripe with 2 rows of all white. +The star stitch stripe is next to be made. + +First row: use white wool and change to crochet hook. Insert hook into +first stitch on pin and pull a loop through (retaining stitch on +knitting pin). Ch. 2, skip first chain, pick up a loop in second chain +from hook, one in the first loop, which is then slipped from pin, then a +loop in each of the next 2 stitches which are slipped off in turn, wool +over and through 4 loops, ch. 1. There are now two stitches on crochet +hook. + +For the second star, * draw wool through eye of preceding star (the +little hole formed by stitch just made), through back of last loop of +preceding star and through each of the next 2 stitches on the knitting +pin, wool over and through 4, ch. 1. Repeat from * to the end of the +row. Turn. + +Second row: with knitting pin * pick up a loop in eye of first star, +knit next stitch and repeat from * all along row, ending with knitting +the final stitch. Be careful not to widen there. There are again as many +stitches on needle as for the first row. + +Third row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 together and repeat from * to the end of +the row. + +Fourth row: plain knitting, knit each over as a stitch. Make another +shaded stripe like first one omitting the two rows of all white knitting +when beginning stripe, but making them at the end of stripe. + +Repeat the four rows for star stitch stripe and then the first and +second rows. Make 2 rows of plain knitting all white, then make the +shaded stripe. When the center of this stripe has been made, the scarf +is half finished. Make second half to match first and bind off loosely. + +Run a thread of wool across each end to draw work in shape before +knotting on the fringe. + +Cut the wool for fringe in 10 inch lengths and knot 4 strands for each +tassel. Put a tassel in the end of each purl (2 rows) and arrange the +colors to correspond to the shaded stripes. + + + + + LATTICE WORK SHOPPING BAG. + + Materials Required: + + 7 balls, Bear Macramé, No. 100. + 1 Wood Lattice pin No. 3. + 1 Star crochet hook, No. 1. + 1 pair 4 inch embroidery hoops for handles. + + +Chain 238: turn, slip ball and end of chain through one of the hoops, +skip 12 stitches and make 1 single crochet stitch (1 s. c.) on the +horizontal thread on the back of next chain, thus joining handle to +work. Continue making 1 s. c. in the horizontal thread of each chain +until 50 chains remain unworked—176 s. c. in all. Turn. + +Second row: make 1 slip stitch, as follows on the back thread of first +stitch; insert the hook and draw cord through stitch and loop on hook. +Repeat in each of the next 137 stitches. Turn. + +Third row: 1 s. c. in the back thread of each of the 138 stitches of +first row, being careful to work into the first and last stitches, which +are inclined to draw down and be overlooked. + +Lattice row (fourth row): draw up the loop on hook and slip it on the +lattice pin, draw working thread in place. The pin is held under right +arm firmly. Hold wrong side of work toward you and with crochet hook * +pull a long loop of cord through the double thread of second stitch, +slip it on pin, draw working thread in place and repeat from * in each +stitch of third row. 138 loops on pin. Slip loops from pin. + +Fifth row: turn * draw the fourth, fifth and sixth loops, in turn, +through the first three loops and make 1 s. c. in each loop as it is +drawn through; then 1 s. c. in each of the first, second and third +loops, thus forming the lattice. Repeat from * all along the row. Chain +50, slip ball and end of chain through the second hoop. + +Sixth row: skip 12 chains and make 1 s. c. in the horizontal thread at +the back of each of the next 38 chains, then 1 slip stitch on the back +thread of each stitch of fifth row. Chain 50, slip ball and end of chain +through hoop found there and turn. Be careful not to twist chains. + +[Illustration] + +Seventh row: skip 12 chains and make 1 s. c. in horizontal thread of +each of the other chains; then 1 s. c. in the back thread of each stitch +of _fifth_ row, being careful to work into the first and last stitches +to keep work even. + +Repeat the fourth, fifth, sixth and seventh rows eleven times. Place the +two edges of bag part together and join them together taking up the back +thread of each of the two first stitches and into them working 1 s. c. +Continue in this way all across and fasten off. + +Go back to the 50 chains that were left unworked, draw the end through +the hoop, join on a thread and skip 12 chains, then make 38 s. c., as +before, on ch. and join second side of bag as first side was joined. +Cover each hoop with slip stitches. + + + + + CHILD’S JACKET WITH LATTICE WORK. + + Materials Required: + + 2 skeins, Bear Brand Pompadour wool. + 2 skeins, Bear Brand Zephyr Shetland. + 1 bone crochet hook, No. 0. + 1 amber knitting pin No. 13, which is about the thickness of an ordinary + lead pencil. + + +Using the Zephyr Shetland and crochet hook, chain 69 for the neck of +jacket. Work 2 rows in crazy stitch, as follows: + +First row: skip 2 chs., make 3 d. c. in the third ch., skip 2 chs., 1 s. +c. in the next. * Ch. 3, 3 d. c. in same stitch with s. c., skip 2 chs., +1 s. c. in the next and repeat from *. 22 shells in the row. + +Second row: turn, ch. 3, 3 d. c. in s. c. below, * 1 s. c. in top of ch. +loop below, ch. 3, 3 d. c. in same ch. loop and repeat from * in each +loop across row, ending with 1 s. c. in the final loop. Fasten off wool. + +Third row: turn and use the Pompadour wool. 1 s. c. in s. c. below, ch. +3 (to count as 1 d. c.), 4 d. c. in same s. c., * s. c. in ch. loop of +next shell, 5 d. c. in s. c. below and repeat from * across the row, +ending with 1 s. c. in final ch. loop. Fasten off Pompadour. + +Throughout entire jacket the work is turned in commencing each row. + +Fourth row (Lattice Work): use two threads of Zephyr Shetland and tie +them to the Pompadour wool. * Draw a loop through the back thread of +first d. c. stitch and ch. 1. Draw up the loop on hook and slip it on +the knitting pin. Draw working thread in place. Repeat from * in each d. +c. stitch of row omitting the s. c. stitches, 110 loops on pin for this +row. Slip loops from pin. + +Fifth row: * pull second loop through first loop, pull working threads +through it, ch. 1, slip loop on knitting pin, as before. Pull working +threads through first loop (thus crossing the two loops), ch. 1, slip +loop on pin and repeat from * all across row. Slip loops from pin. + +Sixth row: working with a single thread of Zephyr Shetland cross loops, +as before and in each loop make 1 s. c. + +[Illustration] + +Seventh row: with Pompadour make 1 s. c. in first stitch * ch. 3, 3 d. +c. in same stitch, skip 2, 1 s. c. in next stitch and repeat from * all +across. 36 shells in row. + +Eighth row: use single thread of Zephyr Shetland and work like second +row. + +Ninth row: like third row, having 4 d. c. in each shell instead of 5 d. +c. + +Repeat the fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth and ninth rows. There +will be 48 shells on the final row. This completes the yoke. The wrong +side of shells worked with Pompadour is the right side of yoke. + +The body of jacket is made of a single thread of Zephyr Shetland and is +worked in crazy stitch. + +First row: 1 s. c. in first s. c., * ch. 3, 3 d. c. in same place. 1 s. +c. in s. c. after shell and repeat from * eight times; chain 12 for +under arm, skip nine shells on yoke for shoulder, make 12 crazy shells +across back, ch. 12 for second under arm, skip 9 shells and work 9 crazy +shells to end of row. + +Second row: work as for second row of yoke putting 4 extra shells on +each under arm chain. Make 17 more rows in crazy stitch, then a row of +Pompadour as ninth row of yoke was made. Follow with the three lattice +work rows. Fasten off. + +Using the Pompadour make a scallop of crazy shells all around jacket and +neck, working from wrong side. + +Sleeve: begin on the under arm chain, make 3 crazy shells there, 9 +shells across the shoulder and 2 shells also on the under arm chain. On +these 14 shells work back and forth for 15 more rows. + +Seventeenth row: * make 1 shell as usual then a shell catching the s. c. +through the ch. loops of the next two shells, thus narrowing and repeat +from *. 9 shells in row. Finish the sleeve to match the border on lower +part of jacket. Sew up and then put on the crazy shell scallop. + + + + + AFGHAN WITH CROSS-STITCH EMBROIDERY. + + Materials Required: + + 13 skeins white, Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. + 1 skein green No. 814, Germantown, 4-fold. + 1 skein pink, Bear Brand Rococo Wool. + 9 skeins “Glossilla Rope” No. 264, green. + 2 skeins “Glossilla Rope” No. 200, pink. + 1 pair amber or bone knitting pins No. 4 (14 inches long). + 1 amber or bone crochet hook No. 4, same length. + + +(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If +the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required +will be proportionately less._) + +[Illustration] + +The Cro-Knitting stripe is made first. Using the knitting pins and white +wool, cast on 131 stitches for the length of the stripe. Knit 2 plain +rows. + +Third row: with crochet hook pick up a loop in each stitch and work back +as in plain afghan stitch (see directions for afghan stripe below). + +Fourth row: again pick up a row of loops, taking them on the back +perpendicular bar of the row below, instead of the front perpendicular +bar. Knit back with knitting pin. Knit 2 _more_ plain rows. + +Fancy row: with crochet hook pick up a loop in first stitch and slip off +pin, wool over, pick up a loop about ½ inch high in second stitch, wool +over, pick up another loop in same stitch, slip stitch off pin, wool +over, skip the first loop above afghan stitch row (it will be seen that +this row formed a row of twisted loops) and pick up a loop through the +next 4 threads (2 loops) drawing loop up about 1 inch, * wool over, draw +up another long loop through same space, wool over, through 8 loops on +hook, ch. 1, pick up a loop in next stitch, slip off pin, wool over, +pick up a loop in next stitch, wool over, pick up another loop in same +stitch, slip off, wool over, insert hook in last space where long loops +were worked into, pick up a loop through the next 4 threads and repeat +from * to the end of row, ending by picking up a loop in last stitch. + +Knit 3 plain rows. + +Next row: repeat fancy row, taking up the long loop just above the +clusters made before. + +[Illustration: + + DETAIL OF CROSS-STITCH EMBROIDERY + + × _Green Glossilla_ _Green Germantown_ _Pink Rococo_ ◈ + _Pink Glossilla_ +] + +K. 4 rows, bind off on wrong side. + +Make another Cro-Knitting stripe in same way. + +Afghan Stitch Stripe: ch. 37, pick up a loop through the horizontal bar +in the back of second and all succeeding chain stitches retaining loops +on hook. There will be 37 loops on hook. This is half of the afghan row. +Work back, as follows: wool over and through end loop * wool over and +through 2 stitches and repeat from * to the end. + +Second row: the stitch that remains on hook is the first stitch of this +row. Pick up a loop through the second and succeeding perpendicular bars +retaining loops on hook. The end stitch is picked up through the last +bar and the thread back of it. This forms a chain edge which corresponds +to the first edge. Work back as directed for first row. + +Repeat the second row until the stripe is the same length as the +Cro-Knitting stripe. It should be 7 inches wide. On each of the next six +rows, narrow, as follows: pick up first loop, as usual, then draw it +through the loop on hook, pick up succeeding loops and keep them on +hook, pick up a loop through the last two bars together. Final row: pick +up loop as usual, then draw wool through loop on hook. + +Make two more stripes in same manner and embroider stripes, as +illustrated. + +Sew stripes together. + +Around the afghan make cord edge, as follows: fasten two threads of +white wool at corner, fasten two more threads into third stitch; chain 5 +with first 2 threads, slip stitch into fifth stitch of edge. Withdraw +hook, holding second working thread over chain just made, chain 5, catch +into seventh stitch. Continue all around afghan. It is necessary to +twist the working thread as each loop is being made. + +Tassels are hung in crocheted loops, as illustrated. These are made +while working edge, by an extra loop of 10 chain in their respective +places. Tassels: cut 40 strands each 10 inches long, pull through loops +and tie double. Put network of buttonhole stitch over head of each +tassel with green Glossilla. + + + + + ROSE CAP. + + Materials Required: + + 1 skein, Bear Brand Pompadour Wool. + 1 skein, Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold. + 1 bone crochet hook, No. 0. + 1 amber knitting pin No. 13, which is about the thickness of an ordinary + lead pencil. + + +[Illustration] + +Using the Pompadour and crochet hook, chain 3 and join in a ring. Ch. 3, +* wool over and pick up a loop in the ring, wool over and through all 3 +loops on hook, thus forming 1 short double crochet stitch (1 s. d. c.), +ch. 1 and repeat from * 4 times; join to second ch. of the ch. 3 at +beginning of round, with a slip stitch thus forming six spaces. + +Third round: 1 s. c., 3 d. c., 1 s. c. all in the first space, repeat in +each space of round, ch. 2, turn work and catch around first spoke of +second round with a slip stitch. + +Fourth round: ch. 4, catch around next spoke and repeat all around; join +and turn. + +Fifth round: 1 s. c., 6 d. c., 1 s. c. in first space and repeat all +around. + +Sixth round: change to the Saxony, but do not fasten off Pompadour wool. +* 1 d. c. on the left side of s. c. of preceding round, 1 s. d. c. in +each of the next six stitches drawing them up so that the top of the +work is evenly high, 1 d. c. on the right side of next s. c. and repeat +from * all around. 48 stitches in round. Join. + +Seventh round: draw Pompadour wool through from the back and pick up a +loop in the front thread of first stitch, then draw this same loop +through the loop on hook, thus forming one slip stitch. Make 1 slip +stitch in front thread of each stitch of previous round. Drop Pompadour. + +Eighth round: with Saxony chain 2, to count as 1 s. d. c.; then make 1 +s. d. c. in the back thread of each stitch of preceding round, excepting +that in the center stitch of each shell there are to be 2 s. d. c. 56 s. +d. c. in round. Join. Repeat the seventh round. + +Tenth round: * 1 s. d. c. in back thread of each of the first three +stitches, 2 s. d. c. in next and repeat from * all around. Join. + +Continue in this way alternating the Pompadour and Saxony rounds, on +each of the Saxony rounds having two more stitches between the +increasings until there are nine stitches between. Then make one Saxony +round without any increasing. Repeat Pompadour round. On the next Saxony +row the front of cap is commenced. Make 1 s. d. c. in each of the first +88 stitches and fasten off Saxony; the remaining stitches are left for +the neck portion. Repeat the Pompadour row once more then commence the +lattice pattern. + +First pattern row: draw up a long loop of Pompadour and slip it on the +knitting pin, draw working thread in place. The pin is held under right +arm firmly. Hold wrong side of work toward you and with crochet hook * +pull a long loop of Pompadour through the double threads of second +stitch, slip it on pin and draw working thread in place. Repeat from * +in each stitch of row. 88 loops on pin. Slip loops from pin. + +Second row: turn, * draw the second loop through the first loop and in +it make 1 s. c., then make 1 s. c. in first loop, thus forming the +lattice. Repeat from * all along the row. Fasten off Pompadour. + +Third row: go back to other end, make a loop of Saxony on hook, then +make 88 s. d. c. along the row and fasten off. Take up both threads of +the previous row. + +Fourth row: go back, as before and make 1 slip stitch in the front +thread of each stitch of third row. Use Pompadour. + +Repeat these four rows, three times; on the last repetition of the third +row make 36 s. d. c., skip one stitch, 4 s. d. c., skip 1, 4 s. d. c., +skip 1, 4 s. d. c., skip 1, 36 s. d. c., thus drawing in cap a little +around the face. Do not fasten off but turn and work across neck portion +of cap. Put two more stitches in corner, 2 stitches in end of lattice +row and 1 stitch in each of the other rows across front, across stitches +left from crown * make 1 stitch through the back threads of two stitches +taken together and repeat from * all across crown; then make second +front like first and fasten off. Make fourth row of slip stitches, +working across neck also. + +Around entire cap, using the Pompadour wool, make a scallop as follows: +1 s. c. in first stitch, chain 3, 3 d. c. in same stitch, skip 3 +stitches and repeat all around. At the corners skip 2 stitches _only_ to +prevent capping. + +Rose ornament: make five rounds as directed for beginning of cap. + +Sixth round: ch. 2, turn and catch around first spoke, ch. 6 and catch +around next spoke. Repeat all around; join and turn. + +Seventh round: 1 s. c., 8 d. c., 1 s. c. in first space and repeat all +around. Fasten off. Make another ornament in same manner. Trim with +three rounds of narrow ribbon loops, one loop back of each rose petal. +Place tiny loop in center of each rose and center of crown. + +Line with silk and use ribbon ties. + +[Illustration: + + Child’s Angora Set + + Cap, Muff and Stole +] + + + + + CHILD’S ANGORA SET. + + + (Cap, Muff and Stole.) + + Materials Required: + + 7 (½ oz.) balls, Three Rabbit Angora wool, or 28 small balls. + 2 skeins, Bear Brand Eiderdown. + 1 ball “Glossilla Crochet.” + 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 5. + 1 amber crochet hook, No. 9. + + +CAP. Using the Angora cast on 7 stitches and knit one row. + +Second row: k. 1, p. 1 in each stitch, 14 stitches, in all. Knit +loosely. + +Third and every alternate row, knit plain. + +Fourth row: * k. 1, p. 1 in first stitch, k. 1 and repeat from *. + +Sixth row: * k. 1, p. 1 in first stitch, k. 2 and repeat to end of row. +28 stitches on pin. + +Eighth row: increase in the usual way but have 3 stitches between the +increasings. + +Continue to increase in this way on every other row, always having one +more plain stitch between the increasings until there are 16 rows, in +all. 63 stitches on pin. + +Seventeenth row: bind off 5 stitches, knit 55, bind off the 54th stitch +over the 55th then knit and bind off the remaining stitches, thus +binding off 5 stitches on each end. Fasten off Angora. + +Make the next 4 rows with Glossilla. + +First row: knit plain. + +Second row: k. 1, then k. 2 in each stitch all across the row, ending +with k. 1 in the final stitch. + +Third row: knit plain. + +Fourth row: k. 1, then k. 2 together all across the row, ending with k. +1 in the final stitch. + +* Using the Angora knit six rows; then 4 rows of Glossilla, in pattern, +as before. Repeat from * then knit 6 rows of Angora. Run the stitches on +to a thread and sew up the crown seam of cap. + +Pick up all the stitches across the neck of cap and on them knit 8 rows, +with Angora, followed by 7 rows, in pattern, with Glossilla, then bind +off on the eighth row. + +Pick up the stitches along one end of the neck rows, take the stitches +from the thread on to the pin again, then pick up the stitches along the +other end of neck rows. Knit 10 rows, with Angora, then finish with the +eight rows of Glossilla as was done around the neck. + +Fold back the front for a turn over and trim with ribbons, as +illustrated. + +MUFF. Using the Angora cast on 45 stitches and knit 12 rows; then * with +Glossilla, knit 4 rows in pattern as directed for cap, followed by 12 +rows of Angora. Repeat from * three times, binding off on the last +Angora row. + +Lay the side edges of the work together for the top of the muff. Pick up +36 stitches across the top, with Angora, taking them through both sides +at once. Knit 5 rows, then with Glossilla, knit 7 rows in pattern and +bind off on the eighth row. + +Using the Eiderdown and crochet hook, make the lining, as follows: make +a chain long enough to reach around the end and on it work in single +crochet stitches, _very loosely_ until the lining is the same size as +the outside of muff. Sew up. Slip inside and sew the two pieces together +around the ends using Angora wool. + +Trim with ribbon as illustrated. + +STOLE. Using the Angora, cast on 2 stitches and knit them. + +Second row: knit two stitches in each stitch. + +Third row: k. 2 in first stitch, k. 1 in each of the remaining stitches. +Repeat the third row until there are 20 stitches on the pin. * Change to +Glossilla and knit 4 rows in pattern, as directed for cap; then 12 rows +with Angora. Repeat from *; then make 4 rows with Glossilla. On the +first row of the next Angora stripe knit together the two first and two +last stitches, then finish the 12 rows as usual. Follow with Glossilla +rows. Decrease in same manner on each of the next two Angora stripes. +There will be 14 stitches on pin. On these 14 stitches make 3 more +stripes of the Angora with Glossilla stripes between; then the +increasings must begin to make second end match the first. On this end +the increasing is done on the _first_ row of each of the _Glossilla_ +stripes until there are again 20 stitches on the pin. Finish the end by +narrowing off to a point. Using the Angora _only_ make another piece in +plain knitting exactly same size and shape for lining. Overhand the two +pieces together using a thread of Angora. + +Draw up one edge of stole in the middle part of it enough to make it fit +well around the neck. + +Finish each end with a tail made, as follows: cast on 2 stitches, with +Angora; increase one stitch when beginning each row until there are 18 +stitches on the pin. Knit 11 rows of 18 stitches each and bind off. +Place a little soft cotton inside and sew up. + +Trim with ribbon and place ribbon ties on stole. + + + + + STAR STITCH STOCKINGS. + + Materials Required: + + 1 skein white, Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold. + 1 skein contrasting color Saxony, 3-fold, or + 1 skein Bear Brand Pompadour wool. + 1 pair Bear Brand nickeled knitting pins, No. 12. + 1 bone crochet hook, No. 0. + + +[Illustration] + +Using the white wool cast on 48 stitches and knit one row. + +Second row: k. 1, increase (by picking up the wool between 2 stitches +and knitting it), k. 22, increase, k. 2, increase, k. 22, increase, k. +1. + +Knit every other row plain. + +Fourth row: k. 2, increase, k. 22, increase, k. 1, increase, k. 2 for +center and reverse directions. + +Sixth row: knit 1, increase, k. 27, increase, k. 2, and reverse. + +Eighth row: k. 2, increase, k. 27, increase, k. 1, increase, k. 2 and +reverse. + +On the ninth row increase one stitch when beginning row and then knit +plain. + +Tenth and eleventh rows: use crochet hook and contrasting wool and work +as directed for star stitch. (See page 33). The contrasting wool is used +for the star stitch only. + +Knit four rows then repeat the star stitch rows. On the eighteenth row +knit the two first stitches together, then plain to the end of row. Knit +one plain row. + +Twentieth row: k. 25, k. 2 together nine times, k. 25. + +On the next row the instep tab is commenced. + +Twenty-first row: k. 26, k. 2 tog., k. 4, k. 2 tog., turn. + +Twenty-second row: slip 1, k. 5, k. 2 tog., turn. + +Twenty-third row: slip 1, k. 6, k. 2 tog., turn. + +Repeat the 23d row until 40 stitches, in all, remain on the needles, +then turn and knit to the end of needle and make an extra stitch there +for the star stitch row. + +* Make 2 star stitch rows, then knit 3 plain rows, follow by one plain +row knitting 2 stitches in first and last stitches of row. Repeat from * +until there are six star stitch stripes, then commence the knee portion. +Knit one plain row then * turn and knit until two stitches remain +unworked. Repeat from * holding the unworked stitches on pin until 3 +stitches remain, turn and knit these stitches and the stitches held on +the pin on that side. Turn and knit back on row and then on the stitches +held on other side. Knit 10 plain rows. The ribbon holes are next to be +made. Knit 1, * over, k. 2 tog. and repeat from * ending row with k. 1. +Knit 10 more plain rows, 2 star stitch rows, 4 plain rows, 2 star stitch +rows, 6 plain rows and bind off. + +Sew up leg and foot seams and trim with ribbon. + + + + + LATTICE WORK AFGHAN. + + Materials Required: + + 4 skeins, Bear Brand Eidersil. + 9 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 8-fold. + 1 Lattice pin, No. 4. + 1 amber crochet hook, No. 9. + + +(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If +the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required +will be proportionately less._) + +Using the Germantown and crochet hook chain 101 loosely; turn, skip 1 +chain and make 1 single crochet stitch (1 s. c.), in each chain to the +end. The work should measure thirty inches, for the length of afghan. If +a longer article is desired the row should contain a multiple of 4 +stitches. + +[Illustration] + +Second row: turn and make 1 slip stitch, as follows, on the back thread +of each stitch of preceding row: insert the hook and draw wool through +stitch and the loop on hook. + +Third row: turn, 1 s. c. in the back thread of each of the s. c. +stitches of first row, being careful to work into first stitch which is +inclined to draw down and be overlooked. Through the last stitch draw +the Eidersil and fasten off Germantown. + +Broad Lattice row: draw up a long loop of Eidersil and slip it on the +pin, then wrap the same loop a second time around pin, draw working +thread in place. The pin is held under right arm firmly. Hold wrong side +of work toward you and with crochet hook * pull a long loop of wool +through the double threads of second stitch, slip it on pin and wrap the +second time, as before, draw working thread in place and repeat from * +in each stitch of row. 100 loops (200 wraps) on pin. Join the Germantown +and fasten off Eidersil. Slip loops from pin. There will be 100 long +loops in which to work the fifth row. + +Fifth row: turn, * draw the third loop through the two first loops and +in it make 1 s. c., draw fourth loop through and in it make 1 s. c., +then make 1 s. c. in each of the first and second loops, thus forming +the lattice. Repeat from * all along row. Turn. Repeat the second and +third rows, for the latter taking up the back thread of stitches of +fifth row. Draw Eidersil through and fasten off Germantown. + +Eighth row: like fourth excepting that loops are slipped on pin and are +not wrapped the second time. 100 loops. + +Ninth row: turn, * draw second loop through first and in it make 1 s. c. +then make 1 s. c. in first loop and repeat from * all across row. + +Repeat the eighth and ninth rows twice more. These last 12 rows +constitute one pattern. + +Repeat from the beginning of the second row until there are six broad +lattice rows: then repeat second, third and _again_ the second row and +fasten off. The afghan should now be 25 inches wide. The sides have no +finish. + +Across each end work, as follows: with Germantown make * 3 s. c. in the +heavy band, ch. 3, 3 s. c. in next band—ch. 2, 1 s. c. in next band and +repeat from—, ch. 2 and repeat from * all along. Turn. Repeat second, +third and again second rows as given for afghan. + +Fifth border row: with Germantown make 1 s. c. in end stitch, * skip 4, +5 d. c. in next, skip 4, 1 s. c. and repeat from * making 9 scallops +across end. + +Sixth row: with Eidersil, * 1 s. c. in first s. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c. +around the post of first d. c. of scallop, 1 s. c. in second d. c., ch. +2, 1 d. c. around center d. c., 1 s. c. in fourth d. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c. +around last d. c. and repeat from * all across. + + + + + DUTCH HOOD IN CRO-KNITTING. + + Materials Required: + + 3 skeins Bear Brand Rococo yarn, or 2 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, + 4-fold. + 1 pair amber knitting pins No. 5 (10 inches long) + 1 amber crochet hook No. 5, same length. + + +(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If +the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required +will be proportionately less._) + +Begin at the center of the crown by casting on 7 stitches. + +First row: knit plain. + +Second row: knit 1, but do not slip it from the needle, knit a second +stitch on the back thread of same stitch, after which slip stitch from +needle thus knitting 2 stitches in 1 stitch. Do this on each stitch—14 +stitches on pin. + +Third row: knit plain. + +Fourth row: k. 2 in first stitch, k. 1 and repeat alternately throughout +the row—21 stitches on pin. + +Fifth row: knit plain. + +Sixth row: k. 2 in first stitch, k. 2 and repeat throughout the row—28 +stitches on pin. + +Seventh row: knit plain. + +Eighth row: increase in the usual way, but have 3 stitches between the +increasings—35 stitches on the pin. + +Increase in this way on every second row until there are 10 stitches +between the increasings, when there will be 84 stitches on the pin. Knit +back. + +[Illustration] + +First row of front: knit and bind 5, then knit to other end. Repeat +first row. 74 stitches will remain. + +Third row: with crochet hook, wool over and pick up a loop in first +stitch, wool over and through 2, slip stitch from knitting pin, thus +making 1 double in the first stitch. * Wool over and take up a loop +through the next 2 stitches together, wool over and through 2, wool over +and make another double taking it through the back of the _same_ 2 +stitches, then slip these stitches from pin. Repeat from * all across +row, ending with 1 double in last stitch. + +Fourth row: with knitting pin, knit 1, * over, knit 2 together and +repeat from *: knit last stitch. + +Fifth row: knit 1, * knit 1, knit the back of next stitch and repeat +from *, knit 1. Make three rows of plain garter stitch. On these rows, +for the first stitch, insert the pin, as if to purl, slip stitch and +throw wool around the point of pin, then knit as usual. + +These last six rows constitute one pattern. Make 3 _more_ patterns and +fasten off wool carefully. Run the stitches on to a thread and sew up +crown. + +Pick up 50 stitches across the neck of the hood—19 across each front—12 +across crown. Knit one row, as follows: k. 19, k. 2 together six times, +k. 19. + +Third row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 tog. and repeat from * ending with k. 1. + +Fourth row: plain knitting, taking the over thread as one stitch. + +Make 8 more rows of garter stitch, slipping first stitch as directed and +bind off. + +Pick up 6 stitches along first end of the neck rows, take the stitches +from the thread on to the pin again and pick up 6 stitches along the +other end of the neck rows. + +First row: slip 1, k. 29, * k. 2 tog., k. 4 and repeat from * until 30 +stitches remain, knit 30. + +Make eleven rows of garter stitch, then repeat the first four rows of +the Cro-Knitting pattern. Make 5 rows of k. 2., p. 2 ribbing and bind +off. + +Fold back the front for a turn over and trim hood with ribbons. + + + + + DAISY AFGHAN. + + Materials Required: + + 1 box Cream White Bear Brand Germantown, 8-fold. + 1 box Pink or Blue Germantown, 8-fold. + 2 skeins White Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. + 2 skeins 4-fold Germantown in same color as the 8-fold. + 3 skeins Glossilla Rope, Yellow, No. 515. + 1 amber crochet hook, No. 5, 10 inches long. + + +(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If +the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required +will be proportionately less._) + +Each block is made separately and should be about 6 inches square. Using +the white 8-fold Germantown, chain 30 and make two rows in plain afghan +stitch. (See Afghan Stitch Stripe, page 36.) + +Third row pick up the loops and work back on them, as usual, for 15 +loops, then chain 5 and draw through loop (to form a popcorn) and work +off the remaining 14 loops. These chain stitches should be pulled to the +front of work. + +Fourth and every alternate row is plain afghan stitch. + +Fifth row: pick up all loops, then work off 11 loops, 1 popcorn, 1 loop +plain, 1 popcorn, 4 plain loops, 1 popcorn, 1 plain loop, 1 popcorn, 10 +plain loops. This makes two popcorns on each side of the four center +loops with 1 plain loop between the two popcorns on each side. This one +loop is always worked between the popcorns and no further mention will +be made of it. + +[Illustration] + +Seventh row: 2 popcorns on each side of the 10 center loops. + +Ninth row: 2 popcorns on each side of the 16 center loops. + +Eleventh row: 2 popcorns on each side of the 20 center loops. This is +the middle row of the block. + +Hereafter the number of loops in the center of row is decreased as they +were increased, always having one plain afghan stitch row between the +fancy rows until the row having one popcorn in the center has been made. +Make 2 plain rows to match beginning of block, then work off as follows: +pick up first perpendicular thread, as usual, drawing the wool also +through the loop on hook. Continue to work in this way in each +perpendicular thread to the end of the row and fasten off. Make 15 white +blocks, in all, and 15 blocks of the selected color. Join the blocks +with single crochet stitches, working on the wrong side. Alternate +colors in both width and length, the afghan being six blocks long and +five blocks wide. + +BORDER: using the cream white wool, make a round of double crochet +stitches, putting 1 d. c. in each stitch, with extra stitches at the +corners to prevent capping. This round should be perfectly flat. Join at +the end of each round. + +Second round: using the colored wool, make * 2 d. c. in first stitch, +ch. 1, 2 _more_ d. c. in the same stitch, ch. 1, skip 2 stitches of +previous round and repeat from * if a ruffled border, as illustrated, is +desired. If less fullness is wanted, skip 4 stitches instead of 2. Skip +fewer stitches at the corners. + +Third round: using white wool, make * 4 d. c. in the center of first +shell, 1 d. c. between the shells and repeat from * all around. + +Fourth round: using the color, make * 1 slip stitch, as follows: draw +wool through stitch of previous round and _also_ through loop on hook. +Chain 3 and repeat from * in each stitch of third round. Fasten off. + +The daisies are embroidered in the loop stitch with 4-fold wool, a +colored one in the center of each white block and a white one in each +colored block. All the centers are worked in French knots with the +yellow Glossilla. + + + + + AFGHAN WITH PERSIAN LAMB STRIPES + + Materials Required: + + ¾ box Bear Brand Germantown, 8-fold. + 5 skeins, Bear Brand Persian Lamb Wool. + 1 amber crochet hook, No. 9. + + +Using the Germantown, chain 100 and work in double star stitch, as +follows: skip chain next to hook and take up a loop through each of the +next 5 chains, (6 loops on hook). Have the first 3 loops quite short, +the other 3 loops long. Wool over hook and through all 6 loops, ch. 1 +snugly. + +Second star: take up a loop through eye of first star (the little hole +formed by the stitch just made), another through the back twist of last +loop of first star, making 3 loops on hook. These are held quite short; +3 more loops, pulled long, are taken up, the first in the same stitch +with last loop of first star and 1 loop each in the next 2 chs. There +are again 6 loops upon the hook. Finish as with first star. Repeat +second star until the length of chs. has been used up, then fasten off. +The row should contain 48 stars and should measure thirty inches in +length. + +[Illustration] + +Second row: fasten wool at the very beginning of top of first row, ch. +3, take up a loop each in second and third chs. from hook, a fourth loop +in back of first loop in star below, a loop in eye of star below and a +sixth loop in back of first loop of second star below. Finish as usual. +Second star, take up second and third loops as in stars on the first row +and fourth, fifth and sixth loops as in star just made, finishing as +usual. Work across as with second star and again finish off. + +The last loop of final star is taken in back loop of final star of first +row. Be sure there are as many stars as in first row. + +Repeat the second row twice or until the stripe measures three and +one-half inches in depth. Draw Persian Lamb through the very beginning +of last row and make 1 single crochet stitch there. Continue making 1 s. +c. in each stitch to end of row, chain 1 and turn. Work 4 _more_ rows in +Persian Lamb, putting 1 s. c. in each stitch of preceding row and taking +up both threads of stitch. The Persian Lamb stripe should be two inches +deep. + +Change to Germantown and make stripe, as before. Continue alternating +the Persian Lamb and Germantown stripes until there are 5 Germantown +stripes, in all. + +Border: using the Persian Lamb, work all around the afghan in single +crochet, widening at corners by putting 3 s. c. in each corner on first +round; putting 2 s. c. in each corner on second round. Alternate first +and second rounds for the depth desired. + + + + + INFANT’S JACKET IN SQUARES. + + Materials Required: + + 2 skeins, Bear Brand Zephyr Shetland. + 2 skeins, Bear Brand Pompadour. + 1 bone crochet hook, No. 1. + + +The entire jacket is made in the ordinary crocheting. + +[Illustration] + +The work is begun at the neck with the Pompadour wool. Chain 147, turn, +skip 1 ch., 1 single crochet stitch (1 s. c.) in the next, * ch. 4, skip +4 chs., 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from * to the end of the row. +Fasten off. + +Second row: go back to the beginning of first row and using the Zephyr +Shetland, make 4 double crochet stitches (4 d. c.) in each chain loop +across row drawing up the stitches so they are three-eighths of an inch +high. Fasten off at the end of each row and begin next row at the other +end. + +Third row: use Pompadour and make 1 s.c. in the first stitch * ch. 4, 1 +s. c. in the space between clusters and repeat from * all across, ending +with 1 s. c. in the final stitch of previous row. + +Every other row is made like the third row and no further mention will +be made of it. + +Fourth row: like second row until 6 clusters have been made. Make 3 d. +c. in the next s. c. (thus increasing), make 8 clusters, increase as +before, 9 clusters, increase, 6 clusters to end. + +Sixth row: use Zephyr Shetland. Make 6 clusters, increase, 1 cluster, +increase again (thus commencing first shoulder), 18 clusters across +back, increase, 1 cluster, increase, 6 clusters. Every other row is made +of the Zephyr Shetland. + +Eighth row: 6 clusters, increase, 3 clusters, increase, 9 clusters, +increase, 9 clusters, increase, 3 clusters, increase, 6 clusters. + +Tenth row: 6 clusters, increase, 5 clusters, increase, 19 clusters, +increase, 5 clusters, increase, 6 clusters. + +Twelfth row: 6 clusters, increase, 7 clusters, increase, 10 clusters, +increase, 9 clusters, increase, 7 clusters, increase, 6 clusters. + +Fourteenth row: 6 clusters then fasten off. This is the first short row +of left front. On it work the pattern rows 5 times, 6 rows in all. On +the second and every d. c. row increase in the s. c. preceding the final +cluster to shape the arm hole. + +The short rows for the back are next to be made. + +Skip to the other side of second increasing of shoulder, work to first +increasing on second shoulder and fasten off. Work 6 rows in all across +the back, increasing in the center of every second row. + +The right front is made like the left, increasing at the beginning of +rows instead of at the end. + +First long row below the arms, work with Pompadour wool, as usual, +across the first front, ch. 4, work across back, ch. 4 and across second +front. On this row repeat the pattern rows until there are 8 cluster +rows, on these cluster rows increasing in the center of back on every +other cluster row. The last row will be a Pompadour row. Do not fasten +off, turn, work up the front around neck and down second front. Fasten +off. With the Zephyr Shetland make 4 single crochet stitches in each +loop around the bottom and down the fronts. + +Begin at the neck of left front and with the Pompadour make * 1 d. c. in +the second s. c. below, then 1 d. c. in the first s. c., crossing it +over first d. c. Repeat from * around the three sides of jacket. In the +4 stitches of each corner work the 2 crossed d. c. in one stitch, to +keep the corners full enough for the succeeding rows. + +Second border row: with Zephyr Shetland make 1 d. c. in each stitch of +previous row, taking up both threads of stitch. + +Third row: use Pompadour and make 1 s. c. in each stitch, taking up both +threads. + +Fourth row: like second. Turn and make 1 s. c. in first stitch, * ch. 3, +4 d. c. in same stitch, skip 3 stitches along edge, 1 s. c. in the next +and repeat from * around jacket and neck. Join and fasten off. + +Sixth row: use Pompadour and work on the right side. Make 1 s. c. in the +center skipped stitch on fourth row, * ch. 3, 1 s. c. in top of ch. loop +on fifth row, ch. 3, 1 s. c., ch. 3, 1 s. c., ch. 3, 1 s. c., all in the +same loop, ch. 3, 1 s. c. in center of next 3 skipped stitches on fourth +row, and repeat from *. Join and fasten off. + +Sleeve. Make a foundation row of chains and s. c. in Pompadour, +beginning at one end of the yoke and working down and around the arm +hole to the opposite point of the yoke. This row when completed, +corresponds to the third row. + +Second sleeve row: work clusters in Zephyr Shetland. Continue in pattern +without increase, until there are 13 cluster rows, in all. Next cluster +row make 3 d. c. in each cluster instead of 4 d. c. On the next +Pompadour row, ch. 3 instead of 4. Make a cluster row having 2 d. c. in +each cluster, followed by a Pompadour row having 2 chs. to each loop. +The sleeve should be the proper size for the wrist. Sew up. Finish with +a border like that around the body of jacket and fasten off. Make second +sleeve like first. + +Through the open neck row run a cord chained of Zephyr Shetland and +finished with tassels of the same. + + + KEEPING THE ENDS EVEN. + +Few crocheters realize the importance of exactly following directions +for the ends of rows. Skipping an occasional stitch seems a small matter +to many, when that stitch comes at the end of the row and an occasional +added stitch is decreed to be equally trivial. Yet frequently they spoil +the work. Many a woman while making an afghan, after hours have been +spent, finds that her work is all crooked, going off at an unexpected +angle, although she may have followed directions exactly, excepting as +to the ends. If you want straight edges, learn how the ends must be +worked and make each row exactly as it should be. + + + TO STRAIGHTEN KNITTED OR CROCHETED FLAT WORK. + +Wring out white cotton cloth in cold water. Spread cloth on table, then +place article on cloth with the right side up, and pin in the desired +shape. Cover with a clean, _dry_ cloth and let it remain until entirely +dry. + + + TO WASH WOOLEN ARTICLES. + +Have lukewarm water in which some pure white soap has been dissolved. +Soak the garment ten minutes, then squeeze out (not wring), removing the +stains by squeezing between the hands. + +Rinse through two waters, each of the same temperature as the water in +which garment was soaked. + +Most important is the drying process. If possible, lay the garment flat +on a sheet where it will dry quickly. If a sweater or large garment is +to be dried, it should first be dropped in the bottom of a pillow slip +or cheese-cloth bag, the slip hung up by the open end and the garment be +allowed to drip until nearly dry. Then spread on a sheet to dry, drawing +the garment into shape from time to time and turning frequently. If it +_must_ be hung up, hang evenly. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + + + + + BEAR BRAND MANUAL OF HANDIWORK + + +[Illustration] + +The recognized authority on the arts of knitting and crocheting has +nearly two hundred pages, full of illustrated instructions. It is a fund +of knowledge, as well as pleasure, for beginners and experts. + +It describes the famous BEAR BRAND YARNS and tells how to use them for +making many beautiful garments, giving explicit directions from the +first stitch to the last one. + +If you have enjoyed the work as planned in this Cro-Knitting book you +should certainly have the MANUAL which has been compiled with equal +care. If you are not interested now, you will doubtless become so upon +seeing the many beautiful pictures it contains of garments photographed +on living models. + +The “Boy’s Military Outfit” illustrated is one of the 250 new designs +described in the latest edition. + +Ask your dealer for the Bear Brand Manual or send 25 cents in stamps or +coin to + + BEAR BRAND YARN MANUFACTURERS + 107–113 GRAND STREET DEPT. X NEW YORK CITY + + + + +[Illustration: [Back cover]] + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + + + + + TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES + + + ● Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained. + ● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_. + ● Enclosed blackletter font in =equals=. + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76785 *** |