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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76785 ***
+
+
+
+
+
+                             MATERIALS FOR
+                          SUPERIOR CROCHET AND
+                              MACRAMÉ WORK
+
+
+The success of crochet and macramé work depends largely upon the careful
+choice of superior materials which are suitable for the work, giving it
+the clean and finished appearance which is often missing from work that,
+being made from poor material, has an amateurish appearance. We
+recommend especially, for cotton crochet work:—
+
+                      Bucilla Crochet
+                                      Bear Macramé
+
+
+Bucilla Crochet
+
+A smooth working, highly mercerized cotton suitable for making laces,
+center pieces, belts, purses, bed spreads, etc. White and ecru are made
+in fifteen sizes and the fifteen beautiful colors are made in four or
+more sizes. This is an American product and superior to all the imported
+articles that have been offered heretofore.
+
+Bear Macramé
+
+Is a heavier, mercerized, hard twisted cord suitable for all kinds of
+Macramé work as well as for crocheting. From it are made bags,
+portieres, table covers, lamp shades, etc. It is much called for by the
+exclusive trade.
+
+Glossilla Crochet
+
+Resembles the finest silk crochet thread, is more lustrous and retains
+its luster under all circumstances. It is used for neckties, belts,
+bags, etc.; is put up in convenient cartons from which the thread can be
+drawn while working, the remainder being entirely protected by the
+transparent shell. Each carton contains enough material for one necktie
+or belt.
+
+This carton has been patented.
+
+Klondyke Thread
+
+Is a soft metal thread for crocheting. It comes in a rich, bright gold
+color, also in aluminum, antique gold and antique silver. It is superior
+to all metal threads on the market; does not tarnish easily and is most
+satisfactory for working purposes.
+
+
+
+
+                             =Cro-Knitting=
+                     _The New Art of Worsted Work_
+                                  ALSO
+                        =Crocheted Lattice Work=
+  PRESENTING A COLLECTION OF ORIGINAL AND ATTRACTIVE DESIGNS WITH FULL
+                           WORKING DIRECTIONS
+
+
+                            PRICE, 25 CENTS
+
+
+                              PUBLISHED BY
+                         BERNHARD ULMANN & CO.
+                 107 TO 113 GRAND STREET, NEW YORK CITY
+
+
+
+
+                            COPYRIGHT 1914,
+                                   BY
+                         BERNHARD ULMANN & CO.
+
+
+
+
+                                FOREWORD
+
+
+The new art of Cro-Knitting is, as its name implies, a combination of
+crocheting and knitting, the effects produced being as beautiful as they
+are novel. The variety of unusual stitches is almost without limit and
+leads the worker, who desires something out of the beaten path, into new
+fields that tempt her to go on and on seeking and finding unknown
+beauties at each step. Once mastered, Cro-Knitting may be used for
+numerous purposes.
+
+In presenting this new art to the public, we feel that it will be
+welcomed by the many friends of the BEAR BRAND MANUAL OF HANDIWORK.
+
+We have included, in addition to Cro-Knitting, a number of designs for
+the new Crocheted Lattice Work that need only to be seen to be
+appreciated.
+
+We wish, however, to advise the worker that in carrying out the various
+directions given, she uses exactly the materials designated. The
+directions were tested with the yarns and needles named and only by
+their use can the proper results be obtained. Do not substitute another
+yarn and then wonder why your work is not satisfactory. Use the yarn
+specified—
+
+
+                               BEAR BRAND
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  Young Girl’s Norfolk
+
+  (_For description see page 7_)
+]
+
+
+
+
+                              CRO-KNITTING
+
+
+“To knit from a crochet hook and crochet from a knitting pin” is the
+best description of Cro-Knitting. The rows of crocheting and knitting
+are worked alternately or as the various patterns demand. The work
+requires a pair of knitting pins (or needles, as they are sometimes
+called) and a crochet hook of the same length and size as the pins. The
+hook should be of an even thickness down its entire length, with a knob
+at the end, as the stitches are allowed to accumulate on it as in afghan
+stitch.
+
+The work is always commenced on a knitting pin, the stitches being cast
+on in the usual manner (see Bear Brand Manual of Handiwork), followed by
+one or more rows of plain knitting.
+
+KNITTED ROWS: the wool is to be held in the usual manner. The first
+stitch is to be slipped or knitted as directed, but where a row of
+knitting commences with a different wool, the first stitch is always
+knitted, to keep the stripe distinct.
+
+CROCHETED ROWS: when working these from the knitting pin, the hook is
+inserted through the stitch on the pin, as though it were a second
+knitting pin (from left to right). When working into the back of a
+stitch, the hook is inserted in reverse manner (from right to left).
+When working the crocheted rows the wool is passed over the fingers of
+the left hand. When two knitting stitches are taken together the hook is
+passed through the stitch nearer the left hand (as in knitting) before
+entering the stitch next to the point of the pin. When the back threads
+of two stitches are taken together, this is reversed and the crochet
+hook enters first the stitch at the point of the pin. As the crocheted
+rows are worked from the stitches on the knitting pin, it is not
+possible to “skip one” as in ordinary crocheting, as the stitch would
+drop, but it is an easy matter to put one stitch into two knitting
+stitches taken together, thus producing an extremely pretty effect.
+
+In the instructions, when the phrase occurs “1 double through two
+stitches, 1 double through the back of the same two stitches,” the
+repetition means that the stitches are to be held on the knitting pin
+until the second double has been made; then slip stitches from pin.
+
+When knitting from the crochet hook the point of the hook must be kept
+pointing downward to avoid catching the wool.
+
+STITCHES. The knitting stitches are merely the usual plain and purl. The
+basic crochet stitches are single, double and treble crochet and the
+various cluster stitches, some of which are illustrated.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+                         SINGLE CROCHET STITCH.
+
+Cast on any number of stitches and knit 1 row. * With the crochet hook
+draw the wool through the stitch on the knitting pin; wool over hook and
+through the loop just drawn through, slip stitch from the pin and repeat
+from * all across. After row has been finished, there should be as many
+stitches on hook as there were on pin.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+                         DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH.
+
+Cast on any number of stitches and knit one row. Wool over hook, draw
+the wool through first stitch on pin: wool over and through the two
+loops on hook. Slip stitch from knitting pin. * Wool over hook, draw
+wool through next stitch on pin, wool over and through two loops, slip
+stitch from pin and repeat from * all across.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+                         TREBLE CROCHET STITCH.
+
+Cast on any number of stitches and knit one row. Insert hook in first
+stitch and draw wool through, ch. 2 and slip stitch from pin. * Wool
+over hook, draw wool through next stitch on pin, wool over and through
+two loops, wool over and through one loop, slip stitch from pin and
+repeat from * all across.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+                           AUTOMOBILE STITCH.
+
+Cast on an even number of stitches and knit 4 rows.
+
+First pattern row: with crochet hook pull a loop through first stitch,
+wool over and pick up another loop in same stitch, slip stitch from pin,
+wool over and pick up a loop in next stitch, wool over and through all 5
+loops on hook, ch. 1, thus forming one cluster, slip stitch from pin, *
+wool over and pick up a loop in next stitch, slip off pin, wool over and
+pick up a loop in next stitch, wool over and through all 5 loops on
+hook, ch. 1, slip stitch from pin and repeat from * all across.
+
+Second pattern row: pick up a loop in the back thread of second and all
+remaining stitches, retaining loops on hook (as in afghan stitch). The
+loop on hook will count as first stitch.
+
+Knit 2 rows. These four rows constitute one pattern.
+
+
+                            CLUSTER STITCH.
+
+Cast on an even number of stitches and knit one row.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Second row: insert crochet hook in first stitch, draw wool through, ch.
+1, slip stitch from pin. * Make 1 treble crochet through the next two
+stitches together, 1 double crochet through the back of the same two
+stitches, slip stitches from pin and repeat from * all across, ending by
+working final stitch as first was made.
+
+Knit 3 rows. Repeat these last four rows for the length desired.
+
+
+                             LATTICE WORK.
+
+This is a variation of ordinary crocheting, the stitches being those
+employed in that art.
+
+The work is done with regular crochet hooks of various sizes, as
+designated in the instructions.
+
+The novel feature is the fact, that _in addition_ to the hook, one large
+wooden pin, made like an ordinary knitting pin, is required. On this pin
+the stitches are placed so that regularity in the height of the lattice
+work rows is attained.
+
+These “Lattice Pins” are made in four sizes, the largest. No. 1, being
+almost four inches in circumference. For fine lattice work a knitting
+pin of the desired size can be substituted.
+
+The work is very simple and effective.
+
+
+
+
+                         YOUNG GIRL’S NORFOLK.
+
+                      (_See illustration page 4_)
+                                 .ce 1
+                          Materials Required:
+
+          5 skeins Bear Brand German Knitting Yarn.
+          1 skein contrasting color, knitting yarn.
+          1 pair of amber knitting pins, No. 7 (14 in. long).
+          1 amber crochet hook, No. 7, same length.
+
+
+Using two threads of the principal color cast on 46 stitches for the
+lower edge of sleeve. K. 2, p. 2 for 15 rows. Knit 40 rows (20 purl).
+Knit the first stitch on pin throughout. On the 41st row increase by
+knitting 2 stitches in the first and last stitches of row. Continue to
+increase, in this way, on every fifth row until there are 56 stitches on
+the pin, then work without increasing, until there are 90 rows (45
+purls) in all, for the sleeve. Cast on 70 stitches, knit back on these
+stitches and the 56 sleeve stitches, then cast on 70 more stitches. On
+these 196 stitches knit 30 rows. On the next row, k. 32, bind off 6
+stitches for belt opening of front, knit until 42 stitches remain
+unworked, then bind off 6 stitches for belt opening in back. On the next
+row, change to a single thread of contrasting color and knit back
+casting on the 12 stitches which were bound off for the openings.
+
+The Cro-Knitting band is next to be made of contrasting color. Beginning
+at the lower edge of the front make first fancy row as follows: with
+crochet hook pull a loop through first stitch on the knitting pin, slip
+loop from pin, * pull a loop through next stitch, pull another loop
+through the back of same stitch, slip stitch from pin, pull a loop
+through front of next stitch and another through back of same stitch,
+hold stitch on pin, wool over and through 4 loops on hook, ch. 1, pull a
+loop through back stitch of cluster, then slip stitch from pin, wool
+over and repeat from * until one stitch remains, do not throw wool over
+after last cluster, draw loop through final stitch.
+
+Second fancy row: k. 2, * k. the next stitch and the stitch that was
+thrown over together, k. 1 and repeat from * until 3 stitches remain, k.
+3. Knit 2 plain rows. Repeat the two fancy rows, knit 2 plain rows and
+again repeat the two fancy rows, for the last fancy row changing to 2
+threads of principal color. This completes the band. It will be noticed
+that the wrong side of the first fancy row is shown on the right side of
+band.
+
+Knit 11 rows, on the first two of these rows making openings for belt as
+made on the other side of Cro-Knitting band. The last row ends at the
+lower edge of the back. Knit 98 stitches for the length of back and run
+remaining stitches on to a thread; turn, k. the first 2 stitches
+together then knit to the end of the row. At the end of the next row
+knit the last 2 stitches together to shape the neck. Knit 22 rows, then
+2 rows, increasing 1 stitch on each row, at neck end. Run these stitches
+on an extra pin or thread but do not fasten off wool. Take another ball
+and make right front. Cast on 94 stitches with contrasting color and
+knit 4 rows, make 2 fancy rows of Cro-Knitting, knit 1 row, on the next
+row make button holes, as follows: k. 3, * bind off 3, k. 8 and repeat
+from *. Eight button holes, in all. On the next row cast on the 3
+stitches opposite those bound off. Knit one row then repeat the two
+fancy rows, on the last of these change to principal color. Knit 8 rows,
+then 4 rows increasing 1 stitch at the neck end of each row. The last
+row should end at the neck. Fasten off wool.
+
+Take the stitches of the back from the thread on to knitting pin
+beginning with the stitch at the lower edge of back and with the ball of
+wool left there, work to the lower edge of the front. Knit 11 plain
+rows, not forgetting the belt openings, then 1 row of contrasting color
+and repeat Cro-Knitting band as made on first side. Make second side of
+back and sleeve to match first side. After finishing the 15 rows of k.
+2, p. 2 ribbing on second sleeve, knit 2 plain rows, of contrasting
+color, then repeat the Cro-Knitting band as made on body of garment,
+making four patterns instead of three to form turn back cuff. Make two
+extra plain rows and bind off.
+
+Pick up the 46 stitches at bottom of first sleeve and on them knit
+second cuff to match first one made.
+
+Take the 98 stitches from thread and on them knit the left front, as
+follows: knit 4 rows, decreasing by knitting 2 stitches together at the
+neck end of each row, then knit 16 rows plain and bind off on wrong
+side.
+
+Pick up 52 stitches around neck with contrasting color and knit 4 rows,
+2 fancy Cro-Knitting rows, knit 1 row. Eighth row: k. 3, bind off 3,
+knit to end. On the next row cast on the 3 stitches bound off for the
+button hole. Knit 1 row, 2 fancy rows, knit 1 row and bind off.
+
+Belt: using contrasting color, cast on 134 stitches and knit 4 rows, 2
+fancy rows, k. 4 rows, 2 fancy rows, k. 2 rows then bind off on wrong
+side.
+
+Sew up under arm seams and sleeves.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+                            CUTAWAY JACKET.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+            ½ box Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.
+            2 skeins contrasting color Germantown, 4-fold.
+            1 amber crochet hook, No. 4, 14 inches long.
+            1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 4, same length.
+
+
+Using the principal color, cast on 78 stitches and work, in Raspberry
+stitch, as follows:
+
+First row: knit plain.
+
+Second row: purl.
+
+Third row: with crochet hook make 1 d. c. in first stitch, slip stitch
+from pin; * 1 d. c. through the next two stitches, keeping the stitches
+on knitting pin, 1 s. c. through the back of the same two stitches. Slip
+the two knitted stitches from the pin and repeat from * all along the
+row, ending with 1 d. c. in the final stitch.
+
+Fourth row: purl.
+
+Fifth row: knit.
+
+Sixth row: like third. These six rows constitute one pattern and are
+repeated over and over again for the whole jacket. After four rows of
+clusters have been made, decrease by knitting together the two first and
+the two last stitches of the knitted row. Begin the next cluster row by
+working a whole cluster through the two first stitches on pin and end
+row in same manner through the two last stitches. Make one more row of
+clusters, in same way, then decrease, as before, on the knitted row. The
+next two cluster rows will begin and end with 1 d. c. in the first and
+last stitches.
+
+Continue to decrease in this way, until six stitches in all have been
+decreased at each end. 66 stitches remain. After two more cluster rows
+have been made, increase, by knitting two stitches in the first and last
+stitches of the knitted row, and continue to increase after _each_
+cluster row until 4 stitches have been added at each end. On these 74
+stitches continue until the work measures about 23 inches, or is long
+enough to reach to the neck.
+
+Divide for neck and shoulders, as follows: knit 28 stitches and run them
+on a thread or extra pin; bind off 18 stitches for neck and on the
+remaining 28 stitches begin the left front. Increase at the neck end, on
+each of the knitted and purled rows until there are 50 stitches on the
+pin. On these 50 stitches continue until four cluster rows have been
+made, then at front edge decrease 1 stitch on each of the knitted and
+purled rows, keeping the under arm seam straight until waistline has
+been reached; then increase at the under arm seam on the knitted and
+purled rows, every other time. Continue decreasing on front edge, as
+before. Work until front is as long as the back, and bind off.
+
+Take the stitches from the thread and on them make the right front, as
+left was made, taking care to keep them opposites. Sew up the under arm
+seams, leaving enough space at the top for the arm holes.
+
+BORDER. Around the entire garment and arm holes work, in plain
+crocheting, as follows:
+
+First round: 1 s. c. in each stitch.
+
+Second round: 1 d. c. in each stitch of preceding round, putting extra
+stitches on rounding corners to prevent capping.
+
+Third round: 1 d. c. around the post of each d. c. of second round. No
+extra stitches on corners. When this round has been finished turn it
+back all around garment.
+
+Using the contrasting color, work around outside edge, as follows: * 1
+s. c. in stitch, ch. 3, another s. c. in same stitch, skip 1 stitch and
+repeat from * all around. Work the same finish all around the edge of
+the turned-back round, skipping one stitch between picots around neck
+and sleeves and on the rounding edges skipping two stitches between or
+enough to make the border perfectly flat.
+
+Fasten the right front over the left with crocheted buttons and frogs
+made of the contrasting color. The frogs are made of a chain stitch
+cord, using two threads of the wool. Use washable button molds and
+crochet a covering for them, as follows: ch. 3 and join in a ring, 6 s.
+c. in the ring. Do not join. 2 s. c. in each stitch of the preceding
+round, then widen enough to make work flat until the desired size has
+been attained. Make 1 round without widening and then skip every other
+stitch until proper size. Slip in mold, draw up and sew in place.
+
+Place three buttons and frogs on each under arm seam.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  Lattice Work Scarf
+]
+
+
+
+
+                          LATTICE WORK SCARF.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+                13 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.
+                 4 skeins Bear Brand Rococo Wool.
+                 1 amber or bone crochet hook, No. 5.
+                 1 Lattice Pin, No. 1 (16 inches long).
+
+
+(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If
+the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required
+will be proportionately less._)
+
+Using the Germantown and crochet hook, chain 62 and turn. Make 1 double
+crochet stitch (1 d. c.) in the fourth chain from the needle and 1 d. c.
+in each of the other chains. 60 d. c. in all, counting the three chains
+skipped as 1 d. c. Turn. The work should measure 14 inches in length and
+be ¾ of an inch high.
+
+Second row: ch. 2, wool over and take up a loop through the front thread
+of the second stitch of previous row, wool over and through all three
+loops on needle, thus forming one short, double crochet stitch. Continue
+making 1 s. d. c. in each stitch to the end, always counting the chain
+made when beginning row as one stitch. Turn. 60 stitches.
+
+Third row: chain 3, 1 d. c. in second and each succeeding stitch of
+previous row, taken through the double thread. 60 stitches.
+
+Repeat second and third rows until there are five rows, in all, or the
+work measures 3 inches in depth; ending with a double crochet row.
+
+The border is next to be made. Turn and * draw a loop through the back
+thread of first stitch and through the loop on needle, thus forming 1
+slip stitch (1 s. s.). Repeat from * in each stitch of row. Turn. Make 1
+single crochet stitch in each stitch of double crochet row taking up the
+back thread. Through the last stitch draw the Rococo wool and fasten off
+Germantown.
+
+Lattice Work: draw up the loop of Rococo and slip it on the Lattice pin.
+This pin is held under the right arm firmly. Hold the wrong side of work
+toward you and with crochet hook pull a loop of wool through the double
+threads of second stitch and slip it on the pin. Continue drawing one
+loop through each stitch to the end—60 loops on pin. Join on the
+Germantown and fasten off Rococo. Slip loops off the pin. * Draw the
+fourth, fifth and sixth loops, in turn, through the first three loops
+and make 1 s. c. in each loop as it is drawn through; then 1 s. c. in
+each of the first three loops, thus forming the lattice. Repeat from *
+all along row. Turn.
+
+Repeat the four border rows over and over until there are five rows of
+lattice work. Then repeat the first, second and again the first row.
+When making the second rows the stitches are to be taken up on the back
+threads of the fourth rows.
+
+The center is made as the second and third rows of scarf were made: the
+first row of d. c. being taken on back thread of border and all
+subsequent d. c. rows taken through the double thread. Make center 50
+inches long, then repeat border. Make 5 rows to match beginning and then
+begin border down the side of scarf. Make a row of s. c. putting 3 s. c.
+in the end of each d. c. row and 2 s. c. in each s. d. c. row, or enough
+to make work flat. Across the end of each lattice row chain 3. Be sure
+this row contains a multiple of six stitches. Turn and slip stitch on
+the back thread of s. c. stitches and across the 3 chained stitches.
+Continue as border was made on ends until two rows of lattice work have
+been made, then repeat first, second and again the first border rows and
+fasten off. Finish second side in same manner. Across the ends put a
+knotted-in fringe in every fourth stitch. Put six strands of Germantown
+in each tassel and cut strands 12 inches long.
+
+
+
+
+                     PORCH JACKET IN CRO-KNITTING.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+          5 skeins of Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.
+          2 skeins contrasting color Germantown, for trimming.
+          1 pair No. 7 amber knitting pins, 10 inches long.
+          1 No. 7 amber crochet hook, with knob, same length.
+
+
+(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If
+the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required
+will be proportionately less._)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Using knitting pins and principal color, cast on 28 stitches and work in
+Automobile Stitch (see page 6) until there are four patterns of 14
+clusters each. Then increase by picking up an extra stitch at each end
+of every afghan row until there are 26 clusters in the row. Make three
+patterns of 26 clusters when the work should be long enough to reach to
+the neck. On the next afghan row, pick up 19 loops with the one on pin,
+(20 in all) and make two patterns of 10 clusters each for the left
+shoulder. On next afghan row, increase one stitch at the neck end, make
+2 knitted rows then turn, pick up a loop in first stitch, wool over and
+pick up another loop in same stitch, wool over and through 3 loops on
+hook, ch. 1, thus forming a half cluster. Continue in regular way. On
+the next cluster row there will be eleven clusters. Continue increasing
+in this way, at neck end, ½ cluster on each cluster row, until there are
+14 clusters in the row. Make four rows of 14 clusters. On the second
+knit row decrease as follows: k. 8, k. 2 together, k. 8, k. 2 tog., k.
+8.
+
+Decrease in the same way on each of the next 3 pattern rows, having 2
+stitches less between the decreasings on each pattern.
+
+Make 5 patterns of 10 clusters each, knit 3 rows and bind off.
+
+Go back to the neck, skip 12 stitches and pick up the final 20 stitches
+for the afghan row. On these stitches make right front to correspond to
+left front.
+
+Still using principal color, work around the entire jacket, as follows:
+* 1 s. c., ch. 1, skip enough space to make work lie flat and repeat
+from *. Draw a loop of the contrasting color through loop on hook. Ch.
+1, draw up loop about ¾ of an inch, * wool over, pick up a loop in the
+chain space, wool over and pick up another loop in same space, wool over
+and through all 5 loops on hook, ch. 1, thus forming one cluster. Repeat
+from * all around jacket putting an extra cluster in each corner to
+prevent capping. Join with a slip stitch in the top of first cluster.
+Pull a loop of principal color through and make cluster round as before,
+putting clusters in the top of cluster of preceding round, followed by a
+round of clusters in contrasting color. Final round: use principal
+color, * 1 s. c. in top of cluster ch. 4, 1 d. c. in same space, skip 1
+cluster and repeat from * all around.
+
+Lace up under arms with ribbons.
+
+
+
+
+                        ENGLISH SLEEPING SOCKS.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+           2 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.
+           1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2, 10 inches long.
+           1 No. 2 amber crochet hook, 10 inches long.
+
+
+Cast on 72 stitches and purl one row.
+
+Second row: k. 1, increase (by picking up and knitting the thread) k.
+34, increase, knit 2, increase, k. 34, increase, k. 1.
+
+Third and every alternate row: purl.
+
+Fourth row: k. 2, increase, knit 34, increase, k. 1, increase, k. 2 for
+center, then reverse directions.
+
+Sixth row: k. 1, increase, k. 39, increase, knit 2 and reverse.
+
+Eighth row: k. 2, increase, k. 39, increase, k. 1, increase, k. 2 and
+reverse. Purl 1 row.
+
+First pattern row: with crochet hook make 1 double crochet (see page 6 )
+in the first stitch. * 1 d. c. through two taken together, 1 d. c.
+through the back of the same two and repeat from * ending with 1 d. c.
+in the last stitch.
+
+Second row: k. 1, increase, purl the row, ending by purling the last 2
+stitches together.
+
+Third row: like first. Purl three rows.
+
+Repeat the first and second rows.
+
+Ninth row: k. 43, * slip 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped stitch over and
+repeat from *, k. 43.
+
+Tenth row: p. 40, slip 1, k. 2 tog. pass the slipped stitch over, p. 2,
+slip 1, k. 2 tog. pass the slipped stitch over, p. 40.
+
+Eleventh row: (crochet) 1 d. c. * 1 d. c. through 2, 1 d. c. in the back
+of same 2 and repeat from * 17 times, more. 1 d. c. through 2, 1 d. c.
+through next 2 stitches, 1 d. c through next 2 and 1 d. c. in the back
+of same 2 (center) and reverse directions.
+
+Twelfth row: purl 37, slip 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped stitch over,
+slip 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped stitch over, purl 37.
+
+On the thirteenth row the instep tab is commenced. Knit 33, k. 2 tog.,
+k. 6, k. 2 tog. Turn.
+
+Fourteenth row: slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 tog. Turn.
+
+Fifteenth row: slip 1, knit 6, knit 2 tog. Turn.
+
+Repeat the last 2 rows.
+
+Nineteenth row: slip 1, k. 6, k. 2 tog., k. 1. Turn.
+
+Twentieth row: slip 1, purl 7, purl 2 tog., p. 1. Turn.
+
+Twenty-first row: slip 1, k. 8, k. 2 tog. Turn.
+
+Twenty-second row: slip 1, p. 8. p. 2 tog. Turn.
+
+Repeat the last 2 rows until there are 40 stitches, in all, on the pins;
+then continue along the row, knitting the 15 stitches on the left hand
+needle. Purl 1 row.
+
+First leg row: (crochet) 1 d. c., * 1 d. c. through 2, 1 d. c. in the
+back of same 2 and repeat from * 1 d. c. in final stitch. Purl 1 row.
+
+Repeat first row.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Fourth row: purl 1, increase, purl the row ending by purling the last 2
+stitches together.
+
+Fifth row: k. 1, increase, knit along row, increase k. 1.
+
+Sixth row: purl 3, increase, purl along the row, ending by increasing,
+then purling last 3.
+
+Repeat the first and second rows, twice, then repeat the fifth and sixth
+rows.
+
+Repeat these last 6 (six) pattern rows, twice, then make four plain rows
+of alternate knitting and purling and bind off. Sew up seams.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  Bordered Scarf in Cro-Knitting
+]
+
+
+
+
+                    BORDERED SCARF IN CRO-KNITTING.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+       9 skeins Bear Brand Shetland Floss (12 skeins to the box).
+       2 skeins contrasting color Shetland Floss and
+       3 skeins same color Bear Brand Felicity Floss.
+       1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 13.
+       1 amber crochet hook No. 13 (14 inches long).
+
+
+Using two threads of the principal color cast on 50 stitches loosely and
+knit 14 rows (7 purls) in plain garter stitch. For the first stitch of
+each row, insert the needle as if to purl, slip stitch and put thread
+back under the point of the pin, thus forming a chain edge. The work
+should measure fifteen inches across and be three inches in depth.
+
+The Cro-Knitting is next to be made. Draw two threads of the contrasting
+color through (one of Shetland and one of Felicity) but do not break off
+the principal color: knit two rows in plain garter stitch; then using
+same color and crochet hook make _first pattern row_. Insert the hook
+through the loop on the knitting pin as though it were a second knitting
+pin, holding the wool over the fingers of the left hand. Draw wool
+through first stitch and chain 2; slip the knitted stitch from the pin.
+* Wool over from back to front and pick up a loop in second stitch on
+pin, wool over and through 2; wool over in same way and pick up a loop
+in first stitch, wool over and through two, slip the 2 knitted stitches
+that have been worked into from the pin and repeat from * all along row;
+ending with ch. 2 in final stitch as first stitch was made.
+
+Second pattern row: with same wool and knitting pin, slip 1, * over,
+knit 2 tog. and repeat from * all along row, knit final stitch. When
+knitting from the crochet hook the point of the hook must be kept
+pointing downward to avoid catching the wool.
+
+Third pattern row: with principal color knit 1, * knit 1, knit the back
+of next stitch and repeat from * ending with knit 1 in the final stitch.
+Make three plain garter stitch rows in the principal color, followed by
+2 garter stitch rows in the contrasting color. These 8 rows constitute
+the pattern and are repeated five times for the border at each end of
+the scarf.
+
+The center of scarf is plain garter stitch and is 45 inches long. Repeat
+border, then make 14 rows, in garter stitch and bind off.
+
+Pick up all the stitches along one side of the scarf with principal
+color and crochet hook, taking up both stitches of chain as one stitch
+and taking up 3 stitches in each of the stripes of contrasting color;
+knit off with knitting pin, making 4 rows of garter stitch, then draw
+through contrasting color, dropping principal color and make two rows of
+garter stitch, next make the three pattern rows, then knit 3 rows of
+principal color in garter stitch and crochet off with slip stitch,
+binding off that side of scarf; repeat for the other side.
+
+Make a fringe across the ends as follows: * insert the crochet hook in
+first stitch on bottom of scarf and with double thread of principal
+color, chain 10 loosely, pull up long loop on needle,—wool over, insert
+hook into last chain made and pull up long loop, repeat from—four times,
+wool over and through all loops on hook, chain 1, pull up long loop and
+catch with slip stitch in chain in which cluster was made, make a tight
+s. c. around chain. Chain 10, skip 7 s. c. on bottom of scarf, 1 s. c.
+in the next and repeat from * all across the end. With two threads of
+contrasting color, make 1 s. c. in fourth stitch and repeat fringe as
+made in principal color. To gain the cross effect, slip chain made and
+ball of wool through long loop of principal color before making the s.
+c. in the bottom of scarf. The fringe for each tassel consists of 10
+loops of 20 chain stitches made with single thread to correspond.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  Empire Scarf in Cro-Knitting
+]
+
+
+
+
+                     EMPIRE SCARF IN CRO-KNITTING.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+            7 skeins Bear Brand Shetland Floss.
+            9 skeins Bear Brand Felicity Floss.
+            1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 9 (14 in. long).
+            1 amber crochet hook, No. 9, same length.
+
+
+(NOTE—_These directions are based on 12 skeins of Shetland floss to the
+box. If the “8 skeins to the box” floss is used, the number of skeins
+required will be proportionately less._)
+
+Wind the wools in separate balls.
+
+Using a thread of each wool and the knitting pins, cast on 38 stitches,
+loosely. Knit two rows.
+
+First pattern row: using crochet hook, knit two stitches, wool over and
+pick up a loop around third stitch of first foundation row, wool over
+and draw a loop through next stitch on pin, wool over and through 4
+loops on hook, slip stitch from knitting pin thus forming one cluster.
+Knit the next stitch, * wool over, skip one stitch on first row and make
+cluster, (as before) around the next stitch and the stitch on pin, knit
+1 stitch and repeat from * to the end of the row.
+
+Second pattern row: k. 2 in the first and last stitches of preceding row
+and k. 1 in each intervening stitch.
+
+Third pattern row: using crochet hook, k. 1, 1 cluster around end stitch
+of second pattern row and stitch on pin, k. 1, then work like first row,
+ending the row with knit 2.
+
+Fourth row: like second.
+
+Repeat these four rows until the scarf is the desired width, about 20
+inches, then omit the widening stitches on the knitted rows, making all
+the crocheted rows like first row, until the work is 68 inches in
+length. Make second end of scarf to match first end; decreasing on each
+knitted row by knitting together the two first and two last stitches,
+being careful to preserve the pattern. When there are again 38 stitches
+on needle, bind off.
+
+Down the side of scarf work scallop as follows: * 1 single crochet
+stitch in first stitch, ch. 2, 1 double crochet stitch in same stitch,
+skip enough space to make work smooth and repeat from * to the end. This
+is ordinary crocheting.
+
+Across the end work in knot stitch as follows: * draw up the loop on
+hook about ¾ in., wool over and through loop this time very short since
+it is really the first loop of an s. c. Take up the second loop of the
+s. c. through the new long loop. Pull wool through the 2 loops on needle
+and the s. c. (or knot as it is called) is finished. The present loop on
+the needle should be pulled up long and corresponds to the first loop
+made. When it is pulled up, hold the knot just made between the thumb
+and forefinger and repeat directions from *. Skip one stitch on edge of
+scarf and make 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from beginning all across
+edge. Make scallop on second side and finish second end like first.
+
+Cut the wool for fringe in ten-inch lengths and knot 4 threads of each
+wool through the s. c. in the center of each knot stitch loop.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                      SCHOOL BAG IN LATTICE WORK.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+             10 balls Bear Macramé, No. 100.
+              1 wood knitting pin, No. 1.
+              1 Star crochet hook, No. 1.
+              2 bone rings, at least 2 inches in diameter.
+
+
+Using crochet hook, chain 101; turn, skip 1 chain and make 1 single
+crochet stitch (1 s. c.) in each chain to the end. The work should
+measure full 20 inches. If a deeper bag is desired, the row should
+contain a multiple of 4 stitches, but more material will be required.
+
+Second row: turn and make 1 slip stitch, as follows, on the back thread
+of each stitch of preceding row: insert the hook and draw cord through
+stitch and the loop on hook.
+
+Third row: turn, 1 s. c. in the back thread of each of the s. c.
+stitches of first row, being careful to work into first stitch which is
+inclined to draw down and be overlooked.
+
+Lattice row: draw up a long loop and slip it on the knitting pin, draw
+working thread in place. The pin is held under right arm firmly. Hold
+wrong side of work toward you and with crochet hook * pull a long loop
+of cord through the double threads of second stitch, slip it on pin,
+draw working thread in place and repeat from * in each stitch of row.
+100 loops on pin. Slip loops from pin.
+
+Fifth row: turn, * draw the third loop through the two first loops and
+in it make 1 s. c., draw fourth loop through and in it make 1 s. c.,
+then 1 s. c. in each of the first and second loops, thus forming the
+lattice. Repeat from * all along row. Turn. Repeat second and third
+rows, for the latter taking up the back thread of stitches of fifth row.
+The second, third, fourth and fifth rows constitute one pattern and are
+repeated until there are 14 lattice rows: then repeat the second and
+third rows. Fold in center and slip stitch together working on right
+side.
+
+Make second bag in same manner.
+
+Around the top of each bag crochet, as follows: beginning in the center
+heavy bar, of one side make 1 s. c. * ch. 2, 2 s. c. in next heavy bar
+and repeat from * all around ending with 1 s. c. in the center bar in
+which round was commenced, join and fasten off for one bag. For the
+second bag, after joining, draw up loop and work in knot stitch, as
+follows: draw up the loop on hook a _full_ ½ inch, cord over and through
+loop this time very short since it is really the first loop of a single
+crochet. Take up the second loop of the s. c. through the new long loop.
+Pull cord through the 2 loops on needle and the s. c. (or knot as it
+called) is finished. The present loop on the needle should be pulled up
+long and corresponds to first loop made. When it is pulled up, hold the
+knot just made between the thumb and forefinger and repeat from *. Skip
+4 chains on the top of bag and make 1 s. c. in each of the next 2
+stitches and repeat from beginning all around the top of bag.
+
+Second row: make 3 loops and 3 knots, as before, to turn 1 s. c. through
+the double thread on right side of last knot of first row and another s.
+c. on left side of knot (skipping the s. c. worked in first row), * then
+2 loops and 2 knots catching down in next knot of second row, with 2 s.
+c. Repeat from * across row, a perfect square of 4 loops being formed
+every time the loops are caught down.
+
+Repeat second row until the center of knot stitch measures 12 inches
+then slip rings over and join on second bag to match first.
+
+Around the opening formed by the knot stitch, make * 1 slip stitch in
+knot, ch. 3 and repeat from * all around.
+
+
+
+
+                      AFGHAN WITH DIAMOND STRIPE.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+           13 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 8-fold.
+            9 skeins contrasting color, Germantown, 8-fold.
+            1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 9 (10 in. long).
+            1 amber crochet hook, No. 9, same length.
+
+
+(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If
+the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required
+will be proportionately less._)
+
+The Cro-Knitting stripe is made first. Cast on 26 stitches with the
+principal color. Knit two plain rows.
+
+Third row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 tog. and repeat from * across row, k. last
+stitch.
+
+Fourth row: k. 2, * k. the over st., k. 1 and repeat from *.
+
+Knit two rows plain.
+
+Seventh row: with contrasting color and crochet hook, pull a loop
+through the first stitch, ch. 1 tightly, k. 1, wool over twice, pick up
+a loop, inserting hook from first to second opening in third row, wool
+over, through 2 loops on needle, wool over, pick up another loop in same
+space, wool over and through 3 loops on needle, again wool over and
+through 3 loops on needle, * k. the next two stitches tog., wool over
+twice, pick up a loop from the second to third opening in third row,
+wool over and through 2, wool over and pick up another loop in same
+place, wool over and through 3, again wool over and through 3 and repeat
+from * across row, k. the last 2 stitches.
+
+Eighth row: with same wool and knitting pin, k. 3. * on the contrasting
+thread before the next stitch knit 1 stitch, then knit next stitch and
+repeat from *, knit last stitch.
+
+With principal color knit 4 rows.
+
+These last ten rows constitute one pattern.
+
+Repeat 18 times when the stripe should be about 31 inches long and seven
+inches wide.
+
+Bind off. Make 2 more stripes in same manner.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Diamond Stripe: cast on 13 stitches.
+
+First row: knit plain.
+
+Second row: k. 2, p. 9, k. 2.
+
+Third row: knit plain.
+
+Fourth row: like second.
+
+Fifth row: k. 6, p. 1, k. 6.
+
+Sixth row: k. 2, p. 3, k. 3, p. 3, k. 2.
+
+Seventh row: k. 4, p. 5, k. 4.
+
+Eighth row: k. 2, p. 1, k. 7, p. 1, k. 2.
+
+Ninth row: like seventh.
+
+Tenth row: like sixth.
+
+Eleventh row: like fifth.
+
+Repeat from the beginning of the second row.
+
+These ten rows constitute one pattern and are made over and over again
+until stripe is same length as Cro-Knitting stripes. Make another stripe
+in same way.
+
+Join the stripes alternately, with single crochet stitches worked on
+wrong side of afghan.
+
+Border. Across each end, with contrasting color, make scallops, as
+follows: 1 s. c. in first stitch, ch. 2, * wool over needle twice, skip
+about 4 stitches, (arranging scallops so that there are 3 on the
+Cro-Knitting stripe and 1 in the center of Diamond stripe) pick up a
+loop, wool over and through 2, wool over and pick up another loop in
+same place, wool over and through 2, wool over and pick up third loop in
+same place, wool over and through 2, wool over and through 4, wool over
+and through 2, ch. 2 and repeat from * twice, 3 clusters in same stitch,
+ch. 1, skip the required space, 1 s. c., ch. 1 and make same scallop all
+across.
+
+With principal color make * 1 s. c. in first space of scallop, ch. 2, —
+1 d. c. around the post at the top of first cluster, ch. 2, 1 s. c. in
+next space. Repeat from — twice. Ch. 2, 1 s. c. around the s. c. of row
+below, ch. 2 and repeat from * all across scallops.
+
+Down each side, work as follows: * 1 s. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c. around the s.
+c. just made, skip enough space to make work lie flat, 1 s. c., ch. 1,
+skip as before and repeat.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  Persian Scarf
+]
+
+
+
+
+                             PERSIAN SCARF.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+           13 skeins Bear Brand Shetland Floss.
+            4 skeins Bear Brand Persian Lamb Wool
+            1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 13 (14 in. long).
+            1 amber crochet hook No. 13, same length.
+
+
+(NOTE—_These directions are based on 12 skeins of Shetland floss to the
+box. If the “8 skeins to the box” floss is used, the number of skeins
+required will be proportionately less._)
+
+Wind the Shetland Floss in separate balls and use two threads. Cast on
+200 stitches which should make length of scarf two yards.
+
+First row: with two threads of Shetland and one of Persian Lamb used
+together knit each stitch: turn.
+
+Second row: divide threads holding the Persian Lamb at the back of work,
+as regular knitting thread is used and the two threads of Shetland in
+front of work, toward left hand. * With crochet hook, pull a loop of
+Persian Lamb through first stitch, drop stitch from knitting pin then
+throw Shetland Floss over hook and draw it through the loop of Persian
+Lamb just made. Repeat from * in each stitch of previous row, always
+keeping Shetland Floss in front of work.
+
+Repeat the first and second rows, twice.
+
+Seventh row: drop the Persian Lamb wool temporarily, add two more
+threads of Shetland Floss and using the four threads together knit 2
+rows in plain garter stitch.
+
+Repeat first and second rows, then two rows as seventh row was made and
+again repeat first and second rows.
+
+This completes the border. Fasten off the Persian Lamb wool and
+substitute for it two threads of Shetland Floss.
+
+Repeat first and second rows alternately until there are 20 ridges,
+which should measure full 12 inches for the center of the scarf.
+
+Repeat the border as made on the other edge and bind off.
+
+Finish ends as follows: with two threads of Shetland Floss make 1 single
+crochet stitch in first stitch, * skip about an inch and a half along
+edge and make 13 treble crochet stitches (winding the thread over the
+hook twice) in next stitch, skip same space on edge and make 1 s. c. in
+the next stitch and repeat from *. There should be six of these large
+shells across end. Do not break off wool but work along the side of
+scarf, as follows: * 1 s. c., ch. 3, 1 s. c. around the post of the
+first s. c., skip 1 st. and repeat from * all along. Work the shells
+across second end and the scallop along second side, then fasten off.
+
+With Persian Lamb wool work across ends, as follows: fasten wool in
+first stitch of previous row, * pull out loop 2 inches, pull wool
+through loop and make a tight ch. stitch to fasten it and repeat from *
+twice more, make 1 s. c. in same space on edge where wool was fastened 1
+s. c. in first space of shell, ch. 1., skip 1 space, 1 s. c. in next
+space of shell and repeat until the center stitch has been reached.
+There pull up loop and fasten as before, make another two-inch loop and
+fasten; then 1 s. c. in the middle space of shell. * Ch. 1, skip 1
+space, 1 s. c. in next space and repeat from * twice, then 1 s. c. in
+the single crochet stitch between shells and repeat from the beginning
+of row.
+
+
+
+
+                             POLISH AFGHAN.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+            51 skeins Bear Brand Zephyr Germantown, 8-fold.
+            24 skeins contrasting color, 8-fold Germantown.
+             1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 9.
+             1 amber crochet hook, No. 9 (14 inches long).
+
+
+(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If
+the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required
+will be proportionately less._)
+
+STRIPE IN CRO-KNITTING: with the principal color cast on 30 stitches and
+knit three rows. Do not break off wool.
+
+Change to the contrasting color and knit 2 rows; then using same color
+and crochet hook make first pattern row. Insert the hook through the
+loop on the knitting pin as though it were a second knitting pin holding
+the wool over the fingers of the left hand. Draw wool through first
+stitch and chain 2. Slip the knitted stitch from needle. * Wool over
+from back to front and pick up a loop in second stitch on pin, wool over
+and through 2; wool over in same way and pick up a loop in first stitch,
+wool over and through 2, slip the 2 knitted stitches that have been
+worked into from the pin and repeat from * all along row; ending with
+ch. 2 in final stitch as first stitch was made.
+
+Second pattern row: with same wool and knitting pin, slip 1, * over,
+knit 2 together and repeat from * all along row. Knit final stitch. When
+knitting from the crochet hook, the point of the hook must be kept
+pointing downward to avoid catching the wool.
+
+Third row: with principal color, knit 1, * knit 1, knit the back of next
+stitch and repeat from * ending with knit 1 in the final stitch.
+
+Make three plain garter stitch rows in the principal color, followed by
+2 garter stitch rows in the contrasting color.
+
+These 8 rows constitute one pattern and are repeated over and over until
+the stripe measures 68 inches. Finish with the garter stitch row of
+principal color. This stripe should be 8½ inches wide.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Make three more stripes in Cro-Knitting.
+
+Braided Twist stripe: with the principal color, cast on 19 stitches and
+knit first row.
+
+Second row: knit 5, purl 9, k. 5.
+
+Third row: k. 5, slip the next 3 stitches on to a spare pin and drop
+them _in front_ of the work, k. 3, knit the 3 stitches slipped, k. 8.
+
+Fourth row: like second.
+
+Fifth row: knit plain.
+
+Sixth row: like second.
+
+Seventh row: k. 8., slip the next 3 stitches on to extra pin and drop
+them _behind_ the work, k. 3, knit the 3 stitches slipped off, k. 5.
+
+Eighth row: like second.
+
+Repeat these eight rows until the stripe is same length as the
+Cro-Knitting stripes. Make 2 more stripes of same length.
+
+Join the stripes, one of each kind alternately, working with principal
+color in s. c. and on the wrong side.
+
+The border around entire afghan is made of the braided twist stripe as
+the connecting stripes were made. Each corner is mitered as follows:
+cast on one stitch and in it knit 1 stitch, then knit a second stitch on
+the back thread of same stitch, thus increasing, turn, knit 2 stitches
+in first stitch, one stitch in next.
+
+Continue increasing 1 stitch on each row always on the same side and
+being careful to carry out the directions for the pattern until there
+are 19 stitches on the pin. Keep outside edge straight. Then work until
+stripe is desired length and decrease by knitting together 2 stitches at
+the same end of every row as the increasing was done. Sew up the mitered
+corners and sew or crochet border on working from wrong side, as before.
+
+
+
+
+                          ANGORA ROSEBUD CAP.
+
+
+                           (Six months size.)
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+      3 balls (½ oz.) Three Rabbit Angora wool, or 9 small balls.
+      1 amber crochet hook, No. 3.
+
+
+Work rather loosely.
+
+Ch. 3 and join in a ring. Make six single crochet stitches (6 s. c.) in
+the ring. Do not join as the work is done around and around both threads
+of stitch of previous round being taken up throughout the work.
+
+Second round: 2 s. c. in each stitch.
+
+Third round: * 2 s. c. in first stitch, 1 s. c. in each of the next two
+stitches and repeat from * all around.
+
+Fourth round: * 2 s. c. in first stitch, 1 s. c. in each of the next 4
+stitches and repeat from * all around.
+
+Continue working, increasing just enough to keep the work perfectly
+flat, until the crown is four inches in diameter. For a larger size this
+diameter must be increased. There are 12 rounds in the model cap. At the
+end of last round, turn and work back for 10 stitches (about 2 inches)
+to form the neck rows. Turn, * skip one stitch, 1 s. c. in next and
+repeat from * 5 stitches on neck. Put one more s. c. in last stitch then
+work around crown to the other end of the neck rows, putting 1 s. c. in
+each stitch of previous round. Turn. Work back and forth to form front
+of cap without widening for 24 rows, in all, being careful to make first
+and last stitches of each row rather tighter than the rest so that the
+neck of cap is kept a good shape. There are 56 stitches on these rows on
+the model cap, which measure 12½ inches from end to end. The front
+should now be the desired depth, if not add more rows.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Final row of front: 19 s. c., 1 s. c. through the next two stitches
+taken together, 3 s. c., narrow as before, 4 s. c., narrow, 3 s. c.,
+narrow, 19 s. c.
+
+Chain 3, turn and work a row of ribbon holes across neck part, as
+follows: * skip 2 rows, 1 d. c. in the end of next row, ch. 1 and repeat
+from * all across, skipping one stitch on bottom of crown.
+
+Border: ch. 3, * 1 s. c. in first stitch of front, chain 3, skip 3 and
+repeat from * all around front and neck, skipping fewer stitches at
+corners, to prevent capping.
+
+Final round: * 1 s. c. in space, chain 3, one d. c. in same space and
+repeat from * all around.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  Dresden Set
+
+  Coat, Cap and Bootees
+]
+
+
+
+
+                           DRESDEN BABY COAT.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+            3 skeins Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold.
+            2 skeins green, Glossilla Rope, No. 264.
+            1 skein pink, Glossilla Rope, No. 200.
+            2 skeins blue, Glossilla Rope, No. 108.
+            1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2 (10 in. long).
+            1 amber crochet hook, No. 2 (10 inches long).
+
+
+(NOTE—_These directions are based on 20 skeins to the box Saxony. If the
+“12 skeins to the box” wool is used the amount will be proportionately
+less._)
+
+The yoke is made first. Chain 80 and work in afghan stitch (see Bear
+Brand Manual of Handiwork) for fifteen rows. The shoulders are next to
+be formed. Pick up the first 29 stitches and on them make 2 rows, then 2
+more rows, on each of these rows picking up an extra stitch at the neck
+end; then with another ball of wool add a chain of 16 there and on the
+47 stitches work 16 rows.
+
+On the next row, work as follows: pick up perpendicular bar as usual
+then draw wool through stitch on needle, thus working off. Continue in
+this way until 18 stitches remain and on these stitches work the front
+tab. This should measure eleven inches, from the neck to end. Work off
+stitches, as before. Go back to neck and omitting 22 stitches there,
+work the second shoulder on the remaining 29 stitches, taking care to
+keep them opposites.
+
+For the lower part of jacket, using the knitting pins, cast on 140
+stitches. Knit three rows.
+
+Fourth row: with crochet hook make 1 d. c. (see page 6) in first stitch,
+* 1 d. c. through the next 2 stitches (drawing up the loop high), keep
+stitches on pin, pick up a loop through the back of the same two
+stitches then slip them off pin and repeat from * ending row with 1 d.
+c. in the final stitch. These four rows constitute one pattern and are
+repeated over and over until sixteen patterns have been made. The arm
+holes are next to be made. On the fourth row of next pattern make 1 d.
+c. then 15 clusters as usual, then run all the remaining stitches on a
+thread or extra pin and on these 31 stitches work eight short rows, in
+all, and bind off. Take 31 stitches from the end of thread and make
+second front to match first. Bind off 4 stitches at each end of the
+remaining stitches for the armhole and on the 70 stitches left, make the
+back the same length as the fronts.
+
+Sleeve. Cast on 48 stitches and make 11 patterns and three extra rows of
+plain knitting: then slip on hook and make 9 rows of afghan stitch for
+the cuff. Work off. Make second sleeve like first and sew up.
+
+Around the neck make a row of ribbon holes, as follows: * 1 d. c., ch.
+1, skip 1 and repeat from * all across, make 1 row of s. c. and fasten
+off. Baste the lower part of jacket to the yoke, holding the extra
+fullness across the back and fronts evenly. Join to yoke with slip
+stitches worked on wrong side. Sew sleeves in place.
+
+Work pearl edge on all the edges and around the yoke and top of cuffs,
+as follows: 1 s. c. around the post of foundation, ch. 3, wool over hook
+and pick up a loop through s. c. just made, wool over and pick up
+another loop in same place * skip 1 stitch on foundation, draw a loop
+around the next stitch and through all the loops on hook, ch. 3. Wool
+over and through the third ch. from hook, wool over and through the same
+place and repeat from *.
+
+Embroider the Dresden figures, as illustrated.
+
+
+
+
+                           DRESDEN BABY CAP.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+           2 skeins Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold.
+           1 skein each, Glossilla Rope, Nos. 264, 200, 108.
+           1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2 (10 in. long.)
+           1 amber crochet hook, No. 2 (10 inches long).
+
+
+Chain 16 and work in afghan stitch for 2 rows. On the third row widen
+one stitch when beginning and ending row by picking up an extra loop.
+Continue to work in afghan stitch, widening, as before, on the sixth,
+eleventh, fifteenth and twentieth rows. On each of the next seven rows
+narrow one stitch at each end of row by picking up 2 perpendicular
+threads together. This completes the back of cap.
+
+Front band: chain 122 and make 13 rows in afghan stitch, finishing final
+row as directed for Dresden Baby Coat.
+
+The center of cap is in Cro-Knitting. It is begun at the front. Using
+the knitting pins cast on 118 stitches and work as directed for lower
+part of coat.
+
+On the third row of second pattern, work as follows: k. 28, * k. 2 in
+the next stitch, k. 1 and repeat from * until 28 stitches remain, k. 28.
+Continue without further increase until there are 11 patterns, in all,
+then knit 3 rows and bind off.
+
+Join the Cro-Knitted center to the front with slip stitches worked on
+the wrong side. Draw the other edge in on a gathering thread of wool and
+sew around the back of crown.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  DETAIL OF DRESDEN EMBROIDERY
+
+  × _Green Glossilla_            + _Pink Glossilla_      ◈ _Blue
+    Glossilla_
+]
+
+Around the entire cap and the joinings work in pearls, as directed for
+coat.
+
+Embroider the Dresden figures, as illustrated.
+
+Line the cap with silk.
+
+
+
+
+                            DRESDEN BOOTEES.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+           1 skein Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold.
+           1 skein each, Glossilla Rope, Nos. 264, 200, 108.
+           1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2 (10 in. long.)
+           1 amber crochet hook, No. 2.
+
+
+Using the crochet hook, chain 12 and work in afghan stitch for 27 rows.
+On the next row narrow by picking up the second and third perpendicular
+threads together, also the two just before the final stitch. Make one
+more row in same way and work off as directed.
+
+Fasten wool to the tenth row from point, ch. 26 and join to same place
+on other side of afghan stripe. On these stitches the foot is to be
+made. Make 1 s. c. in each stitch all around leg and tab, putting an
+extra s. c. in each corner of the tab.
+
+Continue working around and around in s. c., taking up both threads of
+stitch of preceding round until 4 rounds, in all, have been made, on
+each round putting 2 s. c. in the stitch on each side of the center
+stitch of tab.
+
+On the next round leave 3 stitches in the center of tab, working 1 s. c.
+in each and increase in the stitches on each side of them, in the
+regular way. Sixth and seventh rounds: narrow each side of center stitch
+by skipping a stitch there. Eighth and ninth rounds: narrow at toe and
+also at heel by skipping 1 stitch at each side of center of heel.
+
+Turn bootee and join with s. c.
+
+Make a row of ribbon holes around the back of bootee, as follows: fasten
+wool in the 12th row from point of afghan stitch tab * ch. 1, skip 1, 1
+d. c. in next and repeat from * all across.
+
+With the knitting pin pick up a loop in each stitch of preceding row and
+knit 2 rows.
+
+First pattern row: which should be worked on the wrong side of bootee.
+With crochet hook make 1 d. c. in first stitch, * 1 d. c. through the
+next 2 stitches (drawing up the loop high), keep stitches on pin, pick
+up a loop through the back of the same 2 stitches then slip them off pin
+and repeat from * ending row with 1 d. c. in the final stitch.
+
+Knit 3 rows. These four rows constitute one pattern. Repeat until there
+are six patterns in all, and bind off.
+
+Work all around tab and top of bootee with pearls, as directed for coat.
+
+Embroider with Dresden figures, as illustrated and trim with ribbon.
+
+
+
+
+                        KNITTED ANGORA BOOTEES.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+       2 balls (½ oz.) Three Rabbit Angora Wool or 8 small balls.
+       1 pair Bear Brand nickeled knitting pins, No. 8.
+       1 small bone crochet hook.
+
+
+Cast on 30 stitches. Purl 1 row, knit 1 row, * purl 2 rows, knit 2 rows.
+Repeat from * twice, then purl 2 rows.
+
+Seventeenth row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 together and repeat from *, ending
+row with k. 1. Purl one row.
+
+The foot of the bootee is in plain garter stitch throughout. First row:
+k. 14, over, k. 2, over, k. 14. Second row: plain.
+
+Repeat the first and second rows until 21 rows in all have been made for
+the foot. On each widened row there will be one more stitch on each side
+of the widenings that are required to shape the front. The 2 center
+stitches are knitted between widenings always.
+
+On the 52 stitches, on needle, knit 5 rows.
+
+Twenty-seventh and twenty-ninth rows: narrow by knitting the second and
+third stitches together and the two next to last stitches together. All
+the even numbered rows are plain, without increase or decrease.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Thirty-first row: k. 1, narrow (k. 2 tog.), k. 16, narrow, k. 6, narrow,
+k. 16, narrow, k. 1.
+
+Thirty-third row: k. 1, narrow, k. 14, narrow, k. 6, narrow, k. 14,
+narrow, k. 1.
+
+Thirty-fifth row: k. 1, narrow, k. 12, narrow, k. 2, narrow, k. 2,
+narrow, k. 12, narrow, k. 1.
+
+Bind off. Sew up the back seam and sole: then crochet an edge of tiny
+shells around the top, as follows: * 1 s. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c. in same
+place, skip 2 stitches and repeat from *.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  Dresden Baby Afghan
+]
+
+
+
+
+                          DRESDEN BABY AFGHAN.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+          11 skeins white, Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.
+           2 skeins green Glossilla Rope, No. 264.
+           2 skeins blue Glossilla Rope, No. 108.
+           1 skein pink Glossilla Rope, No. 200.
+           1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 4, 14 inches long.
+           1 amber crochet hook No. 4, same length.
+
+
+(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If
+the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required
+will be proportionately less._)
+
+The Cro-Knitted center of afghan is made first. Cast on 98 stitches and
+work as directed for lower part of “Dresden Baby Coat” (see page 25)
+until 40 patterns have been made. The work should be about 21 inches
+wide and 28 inches deep. Bind off.
+
+BORDER: chain 108 and work in afghan stitch as directed for “Afghan
+Stitch Stripe” (see page 36) for 7 rows, widening by picking up an extra
+stitch at each end of every row. The first of these rows should be the
+exact width of the Cro-Knitted center. Final row: pick up loop, as
+usual, then draw wool through loop on hook.
+
+For the afghan stitch side stripe, chain 7 and make stripe same length
+as center, narrowing one stitch (by picking up last two bars together)
+on the _same_ side of each of the last seven rows to form the mitered
+corner. Make another stripe in same manner, taking care to keep them
+opposites. Sew up the mitered corners, then baste border to center. Use
+the wrong side of the fourth row of center as the right side of the
+work. Holding the right side of afghan stitch border toward you, make 1
+short, double crochet stitch (1 s. d. c.) as follows through the first
+afghan stitch and the center: wool over and draw a loop through stitch,
+wool over and through all three loops on hook. Repeat in each stitch on
+all three sides of afghan, putting extra stitches at corners, to prevent
+capping. Holding the wrong side of work toward you, make a round of s.
+d. c. in same manner on the edge of afghan stitch border. Turn.
+
+Work back around the three sides in double crochet stitches, putting the
+stitches between the s. d. c. stitches of preceding round. Put 3 d. c.
+in each corner. Fasten off.
+
+Go back to other end and make puffs around the three sides, as follows:
+* 5 d. c. in the first stitch, drop loop and insert hook through the
+first d. c. made, draw loop through, ch. 1, skip 1 stitch of preceding
+round and repeat from *. After the ch. 1 draw loop, on hook, up a little
+to prevent work from drawing in at the top. Do not skip any stitches at
+the corners, but skip 2 stitches between puffs when working across the
+bottom of afghan. Fasten off.
+
+Go back, as before, * 1 d. c. in the top of puff, 1 d. c. in the next
+chain and repeat from * on all three sides. Extra stitches in corners.
+Fasten off.
+
+Final round: 1 s. c. in first stitch, * ch. 4—wool over and pick up a
+loop in first ch. made, wool over and through 2 loops on hook, repeat
+from—three times, wool over and through all 5 loops on hook, ch. 1, skip
+2 stitches, 1 s. c. in next and repeat from *. Skip only one stitch on
+each side of corners, to prevent capping.
+
+TURN OVER: ch. 122 and work 3 rows in afghan stitch. On the fourth row
+narrow by picking up second and third bars together, also the two bars
+just preceding the final bar together. Repeat these four rows, twice;
+then narrow on every third row three times. Narrow on every second row
+until there are 30 rows in all, then work off as final row of afghan
+border was done. Sew to top of afghan, then make the five border rounds,
+as before, beginning with the short, double crochet round.
+
+Embroider as illustrated.
+
+_For detail of embroidery see page 26._
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  Child’s Norfolk
+]
+
+
+
+
+                            CHILD’S NORFOLK.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+           11 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.
+            1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 7 (14 in. long).
+            1 amber crochet hook, No. 7, same length.
+
+
+(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If
+the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required
+will be proportionately less._)
+
+Cast on 46 stitches for the lower edge of sleeve. K. 2, p. 2 for 15
+rows. Knit 40 rows (20 purls). Knit the first stitch on needle
+throughout. On the 41st row increase by knitting 2 stitches in the first
+and last stitches of row. Continue to increase, in this way, on every
+fifth row until there are 56 stitches on the pin, then work, without
+increasing, until there are 90 rows (45 purls) in all, for the sleeve.
+Cast on 70 stitches, knit back on these stitches and the 56 sleeve
+stitches, then cast on 70 more stitches. On these 196 stitches knit 30
+rows. On the next row, k. 32, bind off 6 stitches for belt opening of
+front, knit until 42 stitches remain unworked, then bind off 6 stitches
+for belt opening in back. On the next row, cast on 12 stitches which
+were bound off for openings.
+
+The Cro-Knitting band is next to be made. Beginning at the lower edge of
+the front make first fancy row, as follows: with crochet hook pull a
+loop through first stitch on knitting pin, slip loop from pin * pull a
+loop through next stitch, pull another loop through the back of same
+stitch, slip stitch from pin, pull a loop through front of next stitch
+and another through back of same stitch, hold stitch on pin, wool over
+and through 4 loops on hook, ch. 1, pull a loop through back stitch of
+cluster, then slip stitch from pin, wool over and repeat from * until
+one stitch remains, do not throw wool over after last cluster, draw loop
+through final stitch.
+
+Second fancy row: k. 2, * k. the next stitch and the stitch that was
+thrown over together, k. 1 and repeat from * until 3 stitches remain, k.
+3.
+
+Knit 2 plain rows. Repeat the two fancy rows, knit 2 plain rows and
+again repeat the two fancy rows. This completes the band. It will be
+noticed that the wrong side of the first fancy row is shown on the right
+side of band.
+
+Knit 11 rows on the first two of these rows, make openings for belt as
+made on the other side of Cro-Knitting band. The last row ends at the
+lower edge of back. Knit 98 stitches for the length of back and run
+remaining stitches on to a thread; turn, k. the first 2 stitches
+together then knit to the end of row. At the end of next row knit the
+last 2 stitches together to shape the neck. Knit 22 rows, then 2 rows,
+increasing 1 stitch on each row, at neck end. Run these stitches on an
+extra pin or thread, but do not fasten off wool. Take another ball and
+make right front. Cast on 94 stitches and knit 4 rows, make two fancy
+rows of Cro-Knitting, knit 1 row, on the next row make button holes, as
+follows: k. 3, * bind off 3, k. 8 and repeat from *. Eight button holes,
+in all. On the next row cast on 3 stitches opposite those bound off.
+Knit one row then repeat the two fancy rows. Knit 8 rows, then 4 rows
+increasing one stitch at the neck end of each row. The last row should
+end at the neck. Fasten off wool.
+
+Take the stitches of the back from the thread on to knitting pin
+beginning with the stitch at the lower edge of back and with the ball of
+wool left there work to the lower edge of the front. Knit 12 plain rows
+not forgetting the belt openings, then repeat Cro-Knitting band as made
+on first side. Make second side of back and sleeve to match first side.
+After finishing the 15 rows of k. 2, p. 2 ribbing on second sleeve, knit
+2 plain rows then repeat the Cro-Knitting band as made on body of
+garment, making four patterns instead of three to form the turn back
+cuff. Make two extra plain rows and bind off.
+
+Pick up the 46 stitches at bottom of first sleeve and on them knit
+second cuff to match first one made.
+
+Take the 98 stitches from thread and on them knit the left front, as
+follows: knit 4 rows, decreasing by knitting 2 stitches together at the
+neck end of each row, then knit 16 rows plain and bind off on wrong
+side.
+
+Pick up 52 stitches around neck and knit 4 rows, 2 fancy Cro-Knitting
+rows, knit 1 row. Eighth row: k. 3, bind off 3, knit to end. On the next
+row cast on the 3 stitches bound off for the button hole. Knit 1 row, 2
+fancy rows, knit 1 row and bind off.
+
+Belt: cast on 134 stitches and knit 4 rows, 2 fancy rows, k. 4 rows, 2
+fancy rows, k. 2 rows then bind off on wrong side.
+
+Sew up under arm seams and sleeves.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  Star Stitch Scarf in Cro-Knitting
+]
+
+
+
+
+                   STAR STITCH SCARF IN CRO-KNITTING.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+   7 skeins white, Bear Brand Shetland Floss (12 skeins to the box).
+   2 skeins of darkest contrasting color.
+   1 skein each, of two next lighter shades.
+   1 pair No. 11 amber knitting pins (14 in. long).
+   1 amber crochet hook No. 11, same length.
+
+
+The entire scarf is made of two threads of Shetland Floss. Wind the
+balls separately.
+
+Using two threads of white cast on 187 stitches, loosely, for the length
+of scarf which should be about two yards. Knit 2 rows: then drop one
+thread of white and fasten on a thread of the lightest shade of Floss
+and knit 2 rows. Make two rows of next shade and 2 rows of the darkest
+shade always carrying one thread of white wool. For the center of stripe
+make 2 rows of two threads of the darkest shade. Work back reversing the
+shades to match first half, finishing stripe with 2 rows of all white.
+The star stitch stripe is next to be made.
+
+First row: use white wool and change to crochet hook. Insert hook into
+first stitch on pin and pull a loop through (retaining stitch on
+knitting pin). Ch. 2, skip first chain, pick up a loop in second chain
+from hook, one in the first loop, which is then slipped from pin, then a
+loop in each of the next 2 stitches which are slipped off in turn, wool
+over and through 4 loops, ch. 1. There are now two stitches on crochet
+hook.
+
+For the second star, * draw wool through eye of preceding star (the
+little hole formed by stitch just made), through back of last loop of
+preceding star and through each of the next 2 stitches on the knitting
+pin, wool over and through 4, ch. 1. Repeat from * to the end of the
+row. Turn.
+
+Second row: with knitting pin * pick up a loop in eye of first star,
+knit next stitch and repeat from * all along row, ending with knitting
+the final stitch. Be careful not to widen there. There are again as many
+stitches on needle as for the first row.
+
+Third row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 together and repeat from * to the end of
+the row.
+
+Fourth row: plain knitting, knit each over as a stitch. Make another
+shaded stripe like first one omitting the two rows of all white knitting
+when beginning stripe, but making them at the end of stripe.
+
+Repeat the four rows for star stitch stripe and then the first and
+second rows. Make 2 rows of plain knitting all white, then make the
+shaded stripe. When the center of this stripe has been made, the scarf
+is half finished. Make second half to match first and bind off loosely.
+
+Run a thread of wool across each end to draw work in shape before
+knotting on the fringe.
+
+Cut the wool for fringe in 10 inch lengths and knot 4 strands for each
+tassel. Put a tassel in the end of each purl (2 rows) and arrange the
+colors to correspond to the shaded stripes.
+
+
+
+
+                       LATTICE WORK SHOPPING BAG.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+              7 balls, Bear Macramé, No. 100.
+              1 Wood Lattice pin No. 3.
+              1 Star crochet hook, No. 1.
+              1 pair 4 inch embroidery hoops for handles.
+
+
+Chain 238: turn, slip ball and end of chain through one of the hoops,
+skip 12 stitches and make 1 single crochet stitch (1 s. c.) on the
+horizontal thread on the back of next chain, thus joining handle to
+work. Continue making 1 s. c. in the horizontal thread of each chain
+until 50 chains remain unworked—176 s. c. in all. Turn.
+
+Second row: make 1 slip stitch, as follows on the back thread of first
+stitch; insert the hook and draw cord through stitch and loop on hook.
+Repeat in each of the next 137 stitches. Turn.
+
+Third row: 1 s. c. in the back thread of each of the 138 stitches of
+first row, being careful to work into the first and last stitches, which
+are inclined to draw down and be overlooked.
+
+Lattice row (fourth row): draw up the loop on hook and slip it on the
+lattice pin, draw working thread in place. The pin is held under right
+arm firmly. Hold wrong side of work toward you and with crochet hook *
+pull a long loop of cord through the double thread of second stitch,
+slip it on pin, draw working thread in place and repeat from * in each
+stitch of third row. 138 loops on pin. Slip loops from pin.
+
+Fifth row: turn * draw the fourth, fifth and sixth loops, in turn,
+through the first three loops and make 1 s. c. in each loop as it is
+drawn through; then 1 s. c. in each of the first, second and third
+loops, thus forming the lattice. Repeat from * all along the row. Chain
+50, slip ball and end of chain through the second hoop.
+
+Sixth row: skip 12 chains and make 1 s. c. in the horizontal thread at
+the back of each of the next 38 chains, then 1 slip stitch on the back
+thread of each stitch of fifth row. Chain 50, slip ball and end of chain
+through hoop found there and turn. Be careful not to twist chains.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Seventh row: skip 12 chains and make 1 s. c. in horizontal thread of
+each of the other chains; then 1 s. c. in the back thread of each stitch
+of _fifth_ row, being careful to work into the first and last stitches
+to keep work even.
+
+Repeat the fourth, fifth, sixth and seventh rows eleven times. Place the
+two edges of bag part together and join them together taking up the back
+thread of each of the two first stitches and into them working 1 s. c.
+Continue in this way all across and fasten off.
+
+Go back to the 50 chains that were left unworked, draw the end through
+the hoop, join on a thread and skip 12 chains, then make 38 s. c., as
+before, on ch. and join second side of bag as first side was joined.
+Cover each hoop with slip stitches.
+
+
+
+
+                   CHILD’S JACKET WITH LATTICE WORK.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+ 2 skeins, Bear Brand Pompadour wool.
+ 2 skeins, Bear Brand Zephyr Shetland.
+ 1 bone crochet hook, No. 0.
+ 1 amber knitting pin No. 13, which is about the thickness of an ordinary
+    lead pencil.
+
+
+Using the Zephyr Shetland and crochet hook, chain 69 for the neck of
+jacket. Work 2 rows in crazy stitch, as follows:
+
+First row: skip 2 chs., make 3 d. c. in the third ch., skip 2 chs., 1 s.
+c. in the next. * Ch. 3, 3 d. c. in same stitch with s. c., skip 2 chs.,
+1 s. c. in the next and repeat from *. 22 shells in the row.
+
+Second row: turn, ch. 3, 3 d. c. in s. c. below, * 1 s. c. in top of ch.
+loop below, ch. 3, 3 d. c. in same ch. loop and repeat from * in each
+loop across row, ending with 1 s. c. in the final loop. Fasten off wool.
+
+Third row: turn and use the Pompadour wool. 1 s. c. in s. c. below, ch.
+3 (to count as 1 d. c.), 4 d. c. in same s. c., * s. c. in ch. loop of
+next shell, 5 d. c. in s. c. below and repeat from * across the row,
+ending with 1 s. c. in final ch. loop. Fasten off Pompadour.
+
+Throughout entire jacket the work is turned in commencing each row.
+
+Fourth row (Lattice Work): use two threads of Zephyr Shetland and tie
+them to the Pompadour wool. * Draw a loop through the back thread of
+first d. c. stitch and ch. 1. Draw up the loop on hook and slip it on
+the knitting pin. Draw working thread in place. Repeat from * in each d.
+c. stitch of row omitting the s. c. stitches, 110 loops on pin for this
+row. Slip loops from pin.
+
+Fifth row: * pull second loop through first loop, pull working threads
+through it, ch. 1, slip loop on knitting pin, as before. Pull working
+threads through first loop (thus crossing the two loops), ch. 1, slip
+loop on pin and repeat from * all across row. Slip loops from pin.
+
+Sixth row: working with a single thread of Zephyr Shetland cross loops,
+as before and in each loop make 1 s. c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Seventh row: with Pompadour make 1 s. c. in first stitch * ch. 3, 3 d.
+c. in same stitch, skip 2, 1 s. c. in next stitch and repeat from * all
+across. 36 shells in row.
+
+Eighth row: use single thread of Zephyr Shetland and work like second
+row.
+
+Ninth row: like third row, having 4 d. c. in each shell instead of 5 d.
+c.
+
+Repeat the fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth and ninth rows. There
+will be 48 shells on the final row. This completes the yoke. The wrong
+side of shells worked with Pompadour is the right side of yoke.
+
+The body of jacket is made of a single thread of Zephyr Shetland and is
+worked in crazy stitch.
+
+First row: 1 s. c. in first s. c., * ch. 3, 3 d. c. in same place. 1 s.
+c. in s. c. after shell and repeat from * eight times; chain 12 for
+under arm, skip nine shells on yoke for shoulder, make 12 crazy shells
+across back, ch. 12 for second under arm, skip 9 shells and work 9 crazy
+shells to end of row.
+
+Second row: work as for second row of yoke putting 4 extra shells on
+each under arm chain. Make 17 more rows in crazy stitch, then a row of
+Pompadour as ninth row of yoke was made. Follow with the three lattice
+work rows. Fasten off.
+
+Using the Pompadour make a scallop of crazy shells all around jacket and
+neck, working from wrong side.
+
+Sleeve: begin on the under arm chain, make 3 crazy shells there, 9
+shells across the shoulder and 2 shells also on the under arm chain. On
+these 14 shells work back and forth for 15 more rows.
+
+Seventeenth row: * make 1 shell as usual then a shell catching the s. c.
+through the ch. loops of the next two shells, thus narrowing and repeat
+from *. 9 shells in row. Finish the sleeve to match the border on lower
+part of jacket. Sew up and then put on the crazy shell scallop.
+
+
+
+
+                  AFGHAN WITH CROSS-STITCH EMBROIDERY.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+      13 skeins white, Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.
+       1 skein green No. 814, Germantown, 4-fold.
+       1 skein pink, Bear Brand Rococo Wool.
+       9 skeins “Glossilla Rope” No. 264, green.
+       2 skeins “Glossilla Rope” No. 200, pink.
+       1 pair amber or bone knitting pins No. 4 (14 inches long).
+       1 amber or bone crochet hook No. 4, same length.
+
+
+(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If
+the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required
+will be proportionately less._)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Cro-Knitting stripe is made first. Using the knitting pins and white
+wool, cast on 131 stitches for the length of the stripe. Knit 2 plain
+rows.
+
+Third row: with crochet hook pick up a loop in each stitch and work back
+as in plain afghan stitch (see directions for afghan stripe below).
+
+Fourth row: again pick up a row of loops, taking them on the back
+perpendicular bar of the row below, instead of the front perpendicular
+bar. Knit back with knitting pin. Knit 2 _more_ plain rows.
+
+Fancy row: with crochet hook pick up a loop in first stitch and slip off
+pin, wool over, pick up a loop about ½ inch high in second stitch, wool
+over, pick up another loop in same stitch, slip stitch off pin, wool
+over, skip the first loop above afghan stitch row (it will be seen that
+this row formed a row of twisted loops) and pick up a loop through the
+next 4 threads (2 loops) drawing loop up about 1 inch, * wool over, draw
+up another long loop through same space, wool over, through 8 loops on
+hook, ch. 1, pick up a loop in next stitch, slip off pin, wool over,
+pick up a loop in next stitch, wool over, pick up another loop in same
+stitch, slip off, wool over, insert hook in last space where long loops
+were worked into, pick up a loop through the next 4 threads and repeat
+from * to the end of row, ending by picking up a loop in last stitch.
+
+Knit 3 plain rows.
+
+Next row: repeat fancy row, taking up the long loop just above the
+clusters made before.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  DETAIL OF CROSS-STITCH EMBROIDERY
+
+  × _Green Glossilla_      _Green Germantown_       _Pink Rococo_      ◈
+    _Pink Glossilla_
+]
+
+K. 4 rows, bind off on wrong side.
+
+Make another Cro-Knitting stripe in same way.
+
+Afghan Stitch Stripe: ch. 37, pick up a loop through the horizontal bar
+in the back of second and all succeeding chain stitches retaining loops
+on hook. There will be 37 loops on hook. This is half of the afghan row.
+Work back, as follows: wool over and through end loop * wool over and
+through 2 stitches and repeat from * to the end.
+
+Second row: the stitch that remains on hook is the first stitch of this
+row. Pick up a loop through the second and succeeding perpendicular bars
+retaining loops on hook. The end stitch is picked up through the last
+bar and the thread back of it. This forms a chain edge which corresponds
+to the first edge. Work back as directed for first row.
+
+Repeat the second row until the stripe is the same length as the
+Cro-Knitting stripe. It should be 7 inches wide. On each of the next six
+rows, narrow, as follows: pick up first loop, as usual, then draw it
+through the loop on hook, pick up succeeding loops and keep them on
+hook, pick up a loop through the last two bars together. Final row: pick
+up loop as usual, then draw wool through loop on hook.
+
+Make two more stripes in same manner and embroider stripes, as
+illustrated.
+
+Sew stripes together.
+
+Around the afghan make cord edge, as follows: fasten two threads of
+white wool at corner, fasten two more threads into third stitch; chain 5
+with first 2 threads, slip stitch into fifth stitch of edge. Withdraw
+hook, holding second working thread over chain just made, chain 5, catch
+into seventh stitch. Continue all around afghan. It is necessary to
+twist the working thread as each loop is being made.
+
+Tassels are hung in crocheted loops, as illustrated. These are made
+while working edge, by an extra loop of 10 chain in their respective
+places. Tassels: cut 40 strands each 10 inches long, pull through loops
+and tie double. Put network of buttonhole stitch over head of each
+tassel with green Glossilla.
+
+
+
+
+                               ROSE CAP.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+ 1 skein, Bear Brand Pompadour Wool.
+ 1 skein, Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold.
+ 1 bone crochet hook, No. 0.
+ 1 amber knitting pin No. 13, which is about the thickness of an ordinary
+    lead pencil.
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Using the Pompadour and crochet hook, chain 3 and join in a ring. Ch. 3,
+* wool over and pick up a loop in the ring, wool over and through all 3
+loops on hook, thus forming 1 short double crochet stitch (1 s. d. c.),
+ch. 1 and repeat from * 4 times; join to second ch. of the ch. 3 at
+beginning of round, with a slip stitch thus forming six spaces.
+
+Third round: 1 s. c., 3 d. c., 1 s. c. all in the first space, repeat in
+each space of round, ch. 2, turn work and catch around first spoke of
+second round with a slip stitch.
+
+Fourth round: ch. 4, catch around next spoke and repeat all around; join
+and turn.
+
+Fifth round: 1 s. c., 6 d. c., 1 s. c. in first space and repeat all
+around.
+
+Sixth round: change to the Saxony, but do not fasten off Pompadour wool.
+* 1 d. c. on the left side of s. c. of preceding round, 1 s. d. c. in
+each of the next six stitches drawing them up so that the top of the
+work is evenly high, 1 d. c. on the right side of next s. c. and repeat
+from * all around. 48 stitches in round. Join.
+
+Seventh round: draw Pompadour wool through from the back and pick up a
+loop in the front thread of first stitch, then draw this same loop
+through the loop on hook, thus forming one slip stitch. Make 1 slip
+stitch in front thread of each stitch of previous round. Drop Pompadour.
+
+Eighth round: with Saxony chain 2, to count as 1 s. d. c.; then make 1
+s. d. c. in the back thread of each stitch of preceding round, excepting
+that in the center stitch of each shell there are to be 2 s. d. c. 56 s.
+d. c. in round. Join. Repeat the seventh round.
+
+Tenth round: * 1 s. d. c. in back thread of each of the first three
+stitches, 2 s. d. c. in next and repeat from * all around. Join.
+
+Continue in this way alternating the Pompadour and Saxony rounds, on
+each of the Saxony rounds having two more stitches between the
+increasings until there are nine stitches between. Then make one Saxony
+round without any increasing. Repeat Pompadour round. On the next Saxony
+row the front of cap is commenced. Make 1 s. d. c. in each of the first
+88 stitches and fasten off Saxony; the remaining stitches are left for
+the neck portion. Repeat the Pompadour row once more then commence the
+lattice pattern.
+
+First pattern row: draw up a long loop of Pompadour and slip it on the
+knitting pin, draw working thread in place. The pin is held under right
+arm firmly. Hold wrong side of work toward you and with crochet hook *
+pull a long loop of Pompadour through the double threads of second
+stitch, slip it on pin and draw working thread in place. Repeat from *
+in each stitch of row. 88 loops on pin. Slip loops from pin.
+
+Second row: turn, * draw the second loop through the first loop and in
+it make 1 s. c., then make 1 s. c. in first loop, thus forming the
+lattice. Repeat from * all along the row. Fasten off Pompadour.
+
+Third row: go back to other end, make a loop of Saxony on hook, then
+make 88 s. d. c. along the row and fasten off. Take up both threads of
+the previous row.
+
+Fourth row: go back, as before and make 1 slip stitch in the front
+thread of each stitch of third row. Use Pompadour.
+
+Repeat these four rows, three times; on the last repetition of the third
+row make 36 s. d. c., skip one stitch, 4 s. d. c., skip 1, 4 s. d. c.,
+skip 1, 4 s. d. c., skip 1, 36 s. d. c., thus drawing in cap a little
+around the face. Do not fasten off but turn and work across neck portion
+of cap. Put two more stitches in corner, 2 stitches in end of lattice
+row and 1 stitch in each of the other rows across front, across stitches
+left from crown * make 1 stitch through the back threads of two stitches
+taken together and repeat from * all across crown; then make second
+front like first and fasten off. Make fourth row of slip stitches,
+working across neck also.
+
+Around entire cap, using the Pompadour wool, make a scallop as follows:
+1 s. c. in first stitch, chain 3, 3 d. c. in same stitch, skip 3
+stitches and repeat all around. At the corners skip 2 stitches _only_ to
+prevent capping.
+
+Rose ornament: make five rounds as directed for beginning of cap.
+
+Sixth round: ch. 2, turn and catch around first spoke, ch. 6 and catch
+around next spoke. Repeat all around; join and turn.
+
+Seventh round: 1 s. c., 8 d. c., 1 s. c. in first space and repeat all
+around. Fasten off. Make another ornament in same manner. Trim with
+three rounds of narrow ribbon loops, one loop back of each rose petal.
+Place tiny loop in center of each rose and center of crown.
+
+Line with silk and use ribbon ties.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  Child’s Angora Set
+
+  Cap, Muff and Stole
+]
+
+
+
+
+                          CHILD’S ANGORA SET.
+
+
+                         (Cap, Muff and Stole.)
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+     7 (½ oz.) balls, Three Rabbit Angora wool, or 28 small balls.
+     2 skeins, Bear Brand Eiderdown.
+     1 ball “Glossilla Crochet.”
+     1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 5.
+     1 amber crochet hook, No. 9.
+
+
+CAP. Using the Angora cast on 7 stitches and knit one row.
+
+Second row: k. 1, p. 1 in each stitch, 14 stitches, in all. Knit
+loosely.
+
+Third and every alternate row, knit plain.
+
+Fourth row: * k. 1, p. 1 in first stitch, k. 1 and repeat from *.
+
+Sixth row: * k. 1, p. 1 in first stitch, k. 2 and repeat to end of row.
+28 stitches on pin.
+
+Eighth row: increase in the usual way but have 3 stitches between the
+increasings.
+
+Continue to increase in this way on every other row, always having one
+more plain stitch between the increasings until there are 16 rows, in
+all. 63 stitches on pin.
+
+Seventeenth row: bind off 5 stitches, knit 55, bind off the 54th stitch
+over the 55th then knit and bind off the remaining stitches, thus
+binding off 5 stitches on each end. Fasten off Angora.
+
+Make the next 4 rows with Glossilla.
+
+First row: knit plain.
+
+Second row: k. 1, then k. 2 in each stitch all across the row, ending
+with k. 1 in the final stitch.
+
+Third row: knit plain.
+
+Fourth row: k. 1, then k. 2 together all across the row, ending with k.
+1 in the final stitch.
+
+* Using the Angora knit six rows; then 4 rows of Glossilla, in pattern,
+as before. Repeat from * then knit 6 rows of Angora. Run the stitches on
+to a thread and sew up the crown seam of cap.
+
+Pick up all the stitches across the neck of cap and on them knit 8 rows,
+with Angora, followed by 7 rows, in pattern, with Glossilla, then bind
+off on the eighth row.
+
+Pick up the stitches along one end of the neck rows, take the stitches
+from the thread on to the pin again, then pick up the stitches along the
+other end of neck rows. Knit 10 rows, with Angora, then finish with the
+eight rows of Glossilla as was done around the neck.
+
+Fold back the front for a turn over and trim with ribbons, as
+illustrated.
+
+MUFF. Using the Angora cast on 45 stitches and knit 12 rows; then * with
+Glossilla, knit 4 rows in pattern as directed for cap, followed by 12
+rows of Angora. Repeat from * three times, binding off on the last
+Angora row.
+
+Lay the side edges of the work together for the top of the muff. Pick up
+36 stitches across the top, with Angora, taking them through both sides
+at once. Knit 5 rows, then with Glossilla, knit 7 rows in pattern and
+bind off on the eighth row.
+
+Using the Eiderdown and crochet hook, make the lining, as follows: make
+a chain long enough to reach around the end and on it work in single
+crochet stitches, _very loosely_ until the lining is the same size as
+the outside of muff. Sew up. Slip inside and sew the two pieces together
+around the ends using Angora wool.
+
+Trim with ribbon as illustrated.
+
+STOLE. Using the Angora, cast on 2 stitches and knit them.
+
+Second row: knit two stitches in each stitch.
+
+Third row: k. 2 in first stitch, k. 1 in each of the remaining stitches.
+Repeat the third row until there are 20 stitches on the pin. * Change to
+Glossilla and knit 4 rows in pattern, as directed for cap; then 12 rows
+with Angora. Repeat from *; then make 4 rows with Glossilla. On the
+first row of the next Angora stripe knit together the two first and two
+last stitches, then finish the 12 rows as usual. Follow with Glossilla
+rows. Decrease in same manner on each of the next two Angora stripes.
+There will be 14 stitches on pin. On these 14 stitches make 3 more
+stripes of the Angora with Glossilla stripes between; then the
+increasings must begin to make second end match the first. On this end
+the increasing is done on the _first_ row of each of the _Glossilla_
+stripes until there are again 20 stitches on the pin. Finish the end by
+narrowing off to a point. Using the Angora _only_ make another piece in
+plain knitting exactly same size and shape for lining. Overhand the two
+pieces together using a thread of Angora.
+
+Draw up one edge of stole in the middle part of it enough to make it fit
+well around the neck.
+
+Finish each end with a tail made, as follows: cast on 2 stitches, with
+Angora; increase one stitch when beginning each row until there are 18
+stitches on the pin. Knit 11 rows of 18 stitches each and bind off.
+Place a little soft cotton inside and sew up.
+
+Trim with ribbon and place ribbon ties on stole.
+
+
+
+
+                         STAR STITCH STOCKINGS.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+           1 skein white, Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold.
+           1 skein contrasting color Saxony, 3-fold, or
+           1 skein Bear Brand Pompadour wool.
+           1 pair Bear Brand nickeled knitting pins, No. 12.
+           1 bone crochet hook, No. 0.
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Using the white wool cast on 48 stitches and knit one row.
+
+Second row: k. 1, increase (by picking up the wool between 2 stitches
+and knitting it), k. 22, increase, k. 2, increase, k. 22, increase, k.
+1.
+
+Knit every other row plain.
+
+Fourth row: k. 2, increase, k. 22, increase, k. 1, increase, k. 2 for
+center and reverse directions.
+
+Sixth row: knit 1, increase, k. 27, increase, k. 2, and reverse.
+
+Eighth row: k. 2, increase, k. 27, increase, k. 1, increase, k. 2 and
+reverse.
+
+On the ninth row increase one stitch when beginning row and then knit
+plain.
+
+Tenth and eleventh rows: use crochet hook and contrasting wool and work
+as directed for star stitch. (See page 33). The contrasting wool is used
+for the star stitch only.
+
+Knit four rows then repeat the star stitch rows. On the eighteenth row
+knit the two first stitches together, then plain to the end of row. Knit
+one plain row.
+
+Twentieth row: k. 25, k. 2 together nine times, k. 25.
+
+On the next row the instep tab is commenced.
+
+Twenty-first row: k. 26, k. 2 tog., k. 4, k. 2 tog., turn.
+
+Twenty-second row: slip 1, k. 5, k. 2 tog., turn.
+
+Twenty-third row: slip 1, k. 6, k. 2 tog., turn.
+
+Repeat the 23d row until 40 stitches, in all, remain on the needles,
+then turn and knit to the end of needle and make an extra stitch there
+for the star stitch row.
+
+* Make 2 star stitch rows, then knit 3 plain rows, follow by one plain
+row knitting 2 stitches in first and last stitches of row. Repeat from *
+until there are six star stitch stripes, then commence the knee portion.
+Knit one plain row then * turn and knit until two stitches remain
+unworked. Repeat from * holding the unworked stitches on pin until 3
+stitches remain, turn and knit these stitches and the stitches held on
+the pin on that side. Turn and knit back on row and then on the stitches
+held on other side. Knit 10 plain rows. The ribbon holes are next to be
+made. Knit 1, * over, k. 2 tog. and repeat from * ending row with k. 1.
+Knit 10 more plain rows, 2 star stitch rows, 4 plain rows, 2 star stitch
+rows, 6 plain rows and bind off.
+
+Sew up leg and foot seams and trim with ribbon.
+
+
+
+
+                          LATTICE WORK AFGHAN.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+                4 skeins, Bear Brand Eidersil.
+                9 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 8-fold.
+                1 Lattice pin, No. 4.
+                1 amber crochet hook, No. 9.
+
+
+(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If
+the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required
+will be proportionately less._)
+
+Using the Germantown and crochet hook chain 101 loosely; turn, skip 1
+chain and make 1 single crochet stitch (1 s. c.), in each chain to the
+end. The work should measure thirty inches, for the length of afghan. If
+a longer article is desired the row should contain a multiple of 4
+stitches.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Second row: turn and make 1 slip stitch, as follows, on the back thread
+of each stitch of preceding row: insert the hook and draw wool through
+stitch and the loop on hook.
+
+Third row: turn, 1 s. c. in the back thread of each of the s. c.
+stitches of first row, being careful to work into first stitch which is
+inclined to draw down and be overlooked. Through the last stitch draw
+the Eidersil and fasten off Germantown.
+
+Broad Lattice row: draw up a long loop of Eidersil and slip it on the
+pin, then wrap the same loop a second time around pin, draw working
+thread in place. The pin is held under right arm firmly. Hold wrong side
+of work toward you and with crochet hook * pull a long loop of wool
+through the double threads of second stitch, slip it on pin and wrap the
+second time, as before, draw working thread in place and repeat from *
+in each stitch of row. 100 loops (200 wraps) on pin. Join the Germantown
+and fasten off Eidersil. Slip loops from pin. There will be 100 long
+loops in which to work the fifth row.
+
+Fifth row: turn, * draw the third loop through the two first loops and
+in it make 1 s. c., draw fourth loop through and in it make 1 s. c.,
+then make 1 s. c. in each of the first and second loops, thus forming
+the lattice. Repeat from * all along row. Turn. Repeat the second and
+third rows, for the latter taking up the back thread of stitches of
+fifth row. Draw Eidersil through and fasten off Germantown.
+
+Eighth row: like fourth excepting that loops are slipped on pin and are
+not wrapped the second time. 100 loops.
+
+Ninth row: turn, * draw second loop through first and in it make 1 s. c.
+then make 1 s. c. in first loop and repeat from * all across row.
+
+Repeat the eighth and ninth rows twice more. These last 12 rows
+constitute one pattern.
+
+Repeat from the beginning of the second row until there are six broad
+lattice rows: then repeat second, third and _again_ the second row and
+fasten off. The afghan should now be 25 inches wide. The sides have no
+finish.
+
+Across each end work, as follows: with Germantown make * 3 s. c. in the
+heavy band, ch. 3, 3 s. c. in next band—ch. 2, 1 s. c. in next band and
+repeat from—, ch. 2 and repeat from * all along. Turn. Repeat second,
+third and again second rows as given for afghan.
+
+Fifth border row: with Germantown make 1 s. c. in end stitch, * skip 4,
+5 d. c. in next, skip 4, 1 s. c. and repeat from * making 9 scallops
+across end.
+
+Sixth row: with Eidersil, * 1 s. c. in first s. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c.
+around the post of first d. c. of scallop, 1 s. c. in second d. c., ch.
+2, 1 d. c. around center d. c., 1 s. c. in fourth d. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c.
+around last d. c. and repeat from * all across.
+
+
+
+
+                      DUTCH HOOD IN CRO-KNITTING.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+ 3 skeins Bear Brand Rococo yarn, or 2 skeins Bear Brand Germantown,
+    4-fold.
+ 1 pair amber knitting pins No. 5 (10 inches long)
+ 1 amber crochet hook No. 5, same length.
+
+
+(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If
+the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required
+will be proportionately less._)
+
+Begin at the center of the crown by casting on 7 stitches.
+
+First row: knit plain.
+
+Second row: knit 1, but do not slip it from the needle, knit a second
+stitch on the back thread of same stitch, after which slip stitch from
+needle thus knitting 2 stitches in 1 stitch. Do this on each stitch—14
+stitches on pin.
+
+Third row: knit plain.
+
+Fourth row: k. 2 in first stitch, k. 1 and repeat alternately throughout
+the row—21 stitches on pin.
+
+Fifth row: knit plain.
+
+Sixth row: k. 2 in first stitch, k. 2 and repeat throughout the row—28
+stitches on pin.
+
+Seventh row: knit plain.
+
+Eighth row: increase in the usual way, but have 3 stitches between the
+increasings—35 stitches on the pin.
+
+Increase in this way on every second row until there are 10 stitches
+between the increasings, when there will be 84 stitches on the pin. Knit
+back.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+First row of front: knit and bind 5, then knit to other end. Repeat
+first row. 74 stitches will remain.
+
+Third row: with crochet hook, wool over and pick up a loop in first
+stitch, wool over and through 2, slip stitch from knitting pin, thus
+making 1 double in the first stitch. * Wool over and take up a loop
+through the next 2 stitches together, wool over and through 2, wool over
+and make another double taking it through the back of the _same_ 2
+stitches, then slip these stitches from pin. Repeat from * all across
+row, ending with 1 double in last stitch.
+
+Fourth row: with knitting pin, knit 1, * over, knit 2 together and
+repeat from *: knit last stitch.
+
+Fifth row: knit 1, * knit 1, knit the back of next stitch and repeat
+from *, knit 1. Make three rows of plain garter stitch. On these rows,
+for the first stitch, insert the pin, as if to purl, slip stitch and
+throw wool around the point of pin, then knit as usual.
+
+These last six rows constitute one pattern. Make 3 _more_ patterns and
+fasten off wool carefully. Run the stitches on to a thread and sew up
+crown.
+
+Pick up 50 stitches across the neck of the hood—19 across each front—12
+across crown. Knit one row, as follows: k. 19, k. 2 together six times,
+k. 19.
+
+Third row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 tog. and repeat from * ending with k. 1.
+
+Fourth row: plain knitting, taking the over thread as one stitch.
+
+Make 8 more rows of garter stitch, slipping first stitch as directed and
+bind off.
+
+Pick up 6 stitches along first end of the neck rows, take the stitches
+from the thread on to the pin again and pick up 6 stitches along the
+other end of the neck rows.
+
+First row: slip 1, k. 29, * k. 2 tog., k. 4 and repeat from * until 30
+stitches remain, knit 30.
+
+Make eleven rows of garter stitch, then repeat the first four rows of
+the Cro-Knitting pattern. Make 5 rows of k. 2., p. 2 ribbing and bind
+off.
+
+Fold back the front for a turn over and trim hood with ribbons.
+
+
+
+
+                             DAISY AFGHAN.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+        1 box Cream White Bear Brand Germantown, 8-fold.
+        1 box Pink or Blue Germantown, 8-fold.
+        2 skeins White Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.
+        2 skeins 4-fold Germantown in same color as the 8-fold.
+        3 skeins Glossilla Rope, Yellow, No. 515.
+        1 amber crochet hook, No. 5, 10 inches long.
+
+
+(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If
+the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required
+will be proportionately less._)
+
+Each block is made separately and should be about 6 inches square. Using
+the white 8-fold Germantown, chain 30 and make two rows in plain afghan
+stitch. (See Afghan Stitch Stripe, page 36.)
+
+Third row pick up the loops and work back on them, as usual, for 15
+loops, then chain 5 and draw through loop (to form a popcorn) and work
+off the remaining 14 loops. These chain stitches should be pulled to the
+front of work.
+
+Fourth and every alternate row is plain afghan stitch.
+
+Fifth row: pick up all loops, then work off 11 loops, 1 popcorn, 1 loop
+plain, 1 popcorn, 4 plain loops, 1 popcorn, 1 plain loop, 1 popcorn, 10
+plain loops. This makes two popcorns on each side of the four center
+loops with 1 plain loop between the two popcorns on each side. This one
+loop is always worked between the popcorns and no further mention will
+be made of it.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Seventh row: 2 popcorns on each side of the 10 center loops.
+
+Ninth row: 2 popcorns on each side of the 16 center loops.
+
+Eleventh row: 2 popcorns on each side of the 20 center loops. This is
+the middle row of the block.
+
+Hereafter the number of loops in the center of row is decreased as they
+were increased, always having one plain afghan stitch row between the
+fancy rows until the row having one popcorn in the center has been made.
+Make 2 plain rows to match beginning of block, then work off as follows:
+pick up first perpendicular thread, as usual, drawing the wool also
+through the loop on hook. Continue to work in this way in each
+perpendicular thread to the end of the row and fasten off. Make 15 white
+blocks, in all, and 15 blocks of the selected color. Join the blocks
+with single crochet stitches, working on the wrong side. Alternate
+colors in both width and length, the afghan being six blocks long and
+five blocks wide.
+
+BORDER: using the cream white wool, make a round of double crochet
+stitches, putting 1 d. c. in each stitch, with extra stitches at the
+corners to prevent capping. This round should be perfectly flat. Join at
+the end of each round.
+
+Second round: using the colored wool, make * 2 d. c. in first stitch,
+ch. 1, 2 _more_ d. c. in the same stitch, ch. 1, skip 2 stitches of
+previous round and repeat from * if a ruffled border, as illustrated, is
+desired. If less fullness is wanted, skip 4 stitches instead of 2. Skip
+fewer stitches at the corners.
+
+Third round: using white wool, make * 4 d. c. in the center of first
+shell, 1 d. c. between the shells and repeat from * all around.
+
+Fourth round: using the color, make * 1 slip stitch, as follows: draw
+wool through stitch of previous round and _also_ through loop on hook.
+Chain 3 and repeat from * in each stitch of third round. Fasten off.
+
+The daisies are embroidered in the loop stitch with 4-fold wool, a
+colored one in the center of each white block and a white one in each
+colored block. All the centers are worked in French knots with the
+yellow Glossilla.
+
+
+
+
+                    AFGHAN WITH PERSIAN LAMB STRIPES
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+                ¾ box Bear Brand Germantown, 8-fold.
+                5 skeins, Bear Brand Persian Lamb Wool.
+                1 amber crochet hook, No. 9.
+
+
+Using the Germantown, chain 100 and work in double star stitch, as
+follows: skip chain next to hook and take up a loop through each of the
+next 5 chains, (6 loops on hook). Have the first 3 loops quite short,
+the other 3 loops long. Wool over hook and through all 6 loops, ch. 1
+snugly.
+
+Second star: take up a loop through eye of first star (the little hole
+formed by the stitch just made), another through the back twist of last
+loop of first star, making 3 loops on hook. These are held quite short;
+3 more loops, pulled long, are taken up, the first in the same stitch
+with last loop of first star and 1 loop each in the next 2 chs. There
+are again 6 loops upon the hook. Finish as with first star. Repeat
+second star until the length of chs. has been used up, then fasten off.
+The row should contain 48 stars and should measure thirty inches in
+length.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Second row: fasten wool at the very beginning of top of first row, ch.
+3, take up a loop each in second and third chs. from hook, a fourth loop
+in back of first loop in star below, a loop in eye of star below and a
+sixth loop in back of first loop of second star below. Finish as usual.
+Second star, take up second and third loops as in stars on the first row
+and fourth, fifth and sixth loops as in star just made, finishing as
+usual. Work across as with second star and again finish off.
+
+The last loop of final star is taken in back loop of final star of first
+row. Be sure there are as many stars as in first row.
+
+Repeat the second row twice or until the stripe measures three and
+one-half inches in depth. Draw Persian Lamb through the very beginning
+of last row and make 1 single crochet stitch there. Continue making 1 s.
+c. in each stitch to end of row, chain 1 and turn. Work 4 _more_ rows in
+Persian Lamb, putting 1 s. c. in each stitch of preceding row and taking
+up both threads of stitch. The Persian Lamb stripe should be two inches
+deep.
+
+Change to Germantown and make stripe, as before. Continue alternating
+the Persian Lamb and Germantown stripes until there are 5 Germantown
+stripes, in all.
+
+Border: using the Persian Lamb, work all around the afghan in single
+crochet, widening at corners by putting 3 s. c. in each corner on first
+round; putting 2 s. c. in each corner on second round. Alternate first
+and second rounds for the depth desired.
+
+
+
+
+                      INFANT’S JACKET IN SQUARES.
+
+                          Materials Required:
+
+                 2 skeins, Bear Brand Zephyr Shetland.
+                 2 skeins, Bear Brand Pompadour.
+                 1 bone crochet hook, No. 1.
+
+
+The entire jacket is made in the ordinary crocheting.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The work is begun at the neck with the Pompadour wool. Chain 147, turn,
+skip 1 ch., 1 single crochet stitch (1 s. c.) in the next, * ch. 4, skip
+4 chs., 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from * to the end of the row.
+Fasten off.
+
+Second row: go back to the beginning of first row and using the Zephyr
+Shetland, make 4 double crochet stitches (4 d. c.) in each chain loop
+across row drawing up the stitches so they are three-eighths of an inch
+high. Fasten off at the end of each row and begin next row at the other
+end.
+
+Third row: use Pompadour and make 1 s.c. in the first stitch * ch. 4, 1
+s. c. in the space between clusters and repeat from * all across, ending
+with 1 s. c. in the final stitch of previous row.
+
+Every other row is made like the third row and no further mention will
+be made of it.
+
+Fourth row: like second row until 6 clusters have been made. Make 3 d.
+c. in the next s. c. (thus increasing), make 8 clusters, increase as
+before, 9 clusters, increase, 6 clusters to end.
+
+Sixth row: use Zephyr Shetland. Make 6 clusters, increase, 1 cluster,
+increase again (thus commencing first shoulder), 18 clusters across
+back, increase, 1 cluster, increase, 6 clusters. Every other row is made
+of the Zephyr Shetland.
+
+Eighth row: 6 clusters, increase, 3 clusters, increase, 9 clusters,
+increase, 9 clusters, increase, 3 clusters, increase, 6 clusters.
+
+Tenth row: 6 clusters, increase, 5 clusters, increase, 19 clusters,
+increase, 5 clusters, increase, 6 clusters.
+
+Twelfth row: 6 clusters, increase, 7 clusters, increase, 10 clusters,
+increase, 9 clusters, increase, 7 clusters, increase, 6 clusters.
+
+Fourteenth row: 6 clusters then fasten off. This is the first short row
+of left front. On it work the pattern rows 5 times, 6 rows in all. On
+the second and every d. c. row increase in the s. c. preceding the final
+cluster to shape the arm hole.
+
+The short rows for the back are next to be made.
+
+Skip to the other side of second increasing of shoulder, work to first
+increasing on second shoulder and fasten off. Work 6 rows in all across
+the back, increasing in the center of every second row.
+
+The right front is made like the left, increasing at the beginning of
+rows instead of at the end.
+
+First long row below the arms, work with Pompadour wool, as usual,
+across the first front, ch. 4, work across back, ch. 4 and across second
+front. On this row repeat the pattern rows until there are 8 cluster
+rows, on these cluster rows increasing in the center of back on every
+other cluster row. The last row will be a Pompadour row. Do not fasten
+off, turn, work up the front around neck and down second front. Fasten
+off. With the Zephyr Shetland make 4 single crochet stitches in each
+loop around the bottom and down the fronts.
+
+Begin at the neck of left front and with the Pompadour make * 1 d. c. in
+the second s. c. below, then 1 d. c. in the first s. c., crossing it
+over first d. c. Repeat from * around the three sides of jacket. In the
+4 stitches of each corner work the 2 crossed d. c. in one stitch, to
+keep the corners full enough for the succeeding rows.
+
+Second border row: with Zephyr Shetland make 1 d. c. in each stitch of
+previous row, taking up both threads of stitch.
+
+Third row: use Pompadour and make 1 s. c. in each stitch, taking up both
+threads.
+
+Fourth row: like second. Turn and make 1 s. c. in first stitch, * ch. 3,
+4 d. c. in same stitch, skip 3 stitches along edge, 1 s. c. in the next
+and repeat from * around jacket and neck. Join and fasten off.
+
+Sixth row: use Pompadour and work on the right side. Make 1 s. c. in the
+center skipped stitch on fourth row, * ch. 3, 1 s. c. in top of ch. loop
+on fifth row, ch. 3, 1 s. c., ch. 3, 1 s. c., ch. 3, 1 s. c., all in the
+same loop, ch. 3, 1 s. c. in center of next 3 skipped stitches on fourth
+row, and repeat from *. Join and fasten off.
+
+Sleeve. Make a foundation row of chains and s. c. in Pompadour,
+beginning at one end of the yoke and working down and around the arm
+hole to the opposite point of the yoke. This row when completed,
+corresponds to the third row.
+
+Second sleeve row: work clusters in Zephyr Shetland. Continue in pattern
+without increase, until there are 13 cluster rows, in all. Next cluster
+row make 3 d. c. in each cluster instead of 4 d. c. On the next
+Pompadour row, ch. 3 instead of 4. Make a cluster row having 2 d. c. in
+each cluster, followed by a Pompadour row having 2 chs. to each loop.
+The sleeve should be the proper size for the wrist. Sew up. Finish with
+a border like that around the body of jacket and fasten off. Make second
+sleeve like first.
+
+Through the open neck row run a cord chained of Zephyr Shetland and
+finished with tassels of the same.
+
+
+                         KEEPING THE ENDS EVEN.
+
+Few crocheters realize the importance of exactly following directions
+for the ends of rows. Skipping an occasional stitch seems a small matter
+to many, when that stitch comes at the end of the row and an occasional
+added stitch is decreed to be equally trivial. Yet frequently they spoil
+the work. Many a woman while making an afghan, after hours have been
+spent, finds that her work is all crooked, going off at an unexpected
+angle, although she may have followed directions exactly, excepting as
+to the ends. If you want straight edges, learn how the ends must be
+worked and make each row exactly as it should be.
+
+
+             TO STRAIGHTEN KNITTED OR CROCHETED FLAT WORK.
+
+Wring out white cotton cloth in cold water. Spread cloth on table, then
+place article on cloth with the right side up, and pin in the desired
+shape. Cover with a clean, _dry_ cloth and let it remain until entirely
+dry.
+
+
+                        TO WASH WOOLEN ARTICLES.
+
+Have lukewarm water in which some pure white soap has been dissolved.
+Soak the garment ten minutes, then squeeze out (not wring), removing the
+stains by squeezing between the hands.
+
+Rinse through two waters, each of the same temperature as the water in
+which garment was soaked.
+
+Most important is the drying process. If possible, lay the garment flat
+on a sheet where it will dry quickly. If a sweater or large garment is
+to be dried, it should first be dropped in the bottom of a pillow slip
+or cheese-cloth bag, the slip hung up by the open end and the garment be
+allowed to drip until nearly dry. Then spread on a sheet to dry, drawing
+the garment into shape from time to time and turning frequently. If it
+_must_ be hung up, hang evenly.
+
+------------------------------------------------------------------------
+
+
+
+
+                     BEAR BRAND MANUAL OF HANDIWORK
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The recognized authority on the arts of knitting and crocheting has
+nearly two hundred pages, full of illustrated instructions. It is a fund
+of knowledge, as well as pleasure, for beginners and experts.
+
+It describes the famous BEAR BRAND YARNS and tells how to use them for
+making many beautiful garments, giving explicit directions from the
+first stitch to the last one.
+
+If you have enjoyed the work as planned in this Cro-Knitting book you
+should certainly have the MANUAL which has been compiled with equal
+care. If you are not interested now, you will doubtless become so upon
+seeing the many beautiful pictures it contains of garments photographed
+on living models.
+
+The “Boy’s Military Outfit” illustrated is one of the 250 new designs
+described in the latest edition.
+
+Ask your dealer for the Bear Brand Manual or send 25 cents in stamps or
+coin to
+
+          BEAR BRAND YARN MANUFACTURERS
+          107–113 GRAND STREET      DEPT. X      NEW YORK CITY
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: [Back cover]]
+
+------------------------------------------------------------------------
+
+
+
+
+                          TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES
+
+
+ ● Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained.
+ ● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_.
+ ● Enclosed blackletter font in =equals=.
+
+
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76785 ***
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+  <body>   
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76785 ***</div>
+
+<div class='tnotes covernote'>
+
+<p class='c000'><strong>Transcriber’s Note:</strong></p>
+
+<p class='c000'>New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to the public domain.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div><span class='pageno' id='Page_I'>I</span></div>
+<div class='chapter ph2'>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c001'>
+    <div>MATERIALS FOR</div>
+    <div>SUPERIOR CROCHET AND</div>
+    <div>MACRAMÉ WORK</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<p class='drop-capa0_0_6 c002'>The success of crochet and macramé work depends largely upon the careful
+choice of superior materials which are suitable for the work, giving it the
+clean and finished appearance which is often missing from work that, being
+made from poor material, has an amateurish appearance. We recommend
+especially, for cotton crochet work:—</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>Bucilla Crochet</div>
+      <div class='line in16'>Bear Macramé</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>Bucilla Crochet</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>A smooth working, highly mercerized cotton suitable for making laces,
+center pieces, belts, purses, bed spreads, etc. White and ecru are made in
+fifteen sizes and the fifteen beautiful colors are made in four or more sizes. This
+is an American product and superior to all the imported articles that have
+been offered heretofore.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Bear Macramé</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Is a heavier, mercerized, hard twisted cord suitable for all kinds of Macramé
+work as well as for crocheting. From it are made bags, portieres, table
+covers, lamp shades, etc. It is much called for by the exclusive trade.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Glossilla Crochet</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Resembles the finest silk crochet thread, is more lustrous and retains its
+luster under all circumstances. It is used for neckties, belts, bags, etc.; is put
+up in convenient cartons from which the thread can be drawn while working, the
+remainder being entirely protected by the transparent shell. Each carton contains
+enough material for one necktie or belt.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>This carton has been patented.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Klondyke Thread</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Is a soft metal thread for crocheting. It comes in a rich, bright gold color,
+also in aluminum, antique gold and antique silver. It is superior to all metal
+threads on the market; does not tarnish easily and is most satisfactory for working
+purposes.</p>
+
+<div><span class='pageno' id='Page_II'>II</span></div>
+<div class='border titlepage'>
+
+<div>
+  <h1 class='c005'><span class='blackletter'>Cro-Knitting</span><br> <span class='xlarge'><em>The New Art of Worsted Work</em></span><br> <span class='large'>ALSO</span><br> <span class='xlarge'><span class='blackletter'>Crocheted Lattice Work</span></span><br> <span class='large'>PRESENTING A COLLECTION OF ORIGINAL AND ATTRACTIVE DESIGNS WITH FULL WORKING DIRECTIONS</span></h1>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>PRICE, 25 CENTS</div>
+    <div class='c006'>PUBLISHED BY</div>
+    <div>BERNHARD ULMANN &#38; CO.</div>
+    <div>107 TO 113 GRAND STREET, NEW YORK CITY</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c001'>
+    <div><span class='pageno' id='Page_III'>III</span><span class='small'><span class='sc'>Copyright 1914,</span></span></div>
+    <div><span class='small'><span class='sc'>by</span></span></div>
+    <div><span class='small'><span class='sc'>Bernhard Ulmann &#38; Co.</span></span></div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_IV'>IV</span>
+  <h2 class='c007'>FOREWORD</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='c003'>
+  <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i_003.jpg' width='100' alt=''>
+</div><p class='drop-capi_8'>
+The new art of Cro-Knitting is, as its name
+implies, a combination of crocheting and
+knitting, the effects produced being as
+beautiful as they are novel. The variety
+of unusual stitches is almost without
+limit and leads the worker, who desires something
+out of the beaten path, into new fields that tempt
+her to go on and on seeking and finding unknown
+beauties at each step. Once mastered, Cro-Knitting
+may be used for numerous purposes.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>In presenting this new art to the public, we
+feel that it will be welcomed by the many friends
+of the BEAR BRAND MANUAL OF HANDIWORK.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>We have included, in addition to Cro-Knitting,
+a number of designs for the new
+Crocheted Lattice Work that need only to be seen
+to be appreciated.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>We wish, however, to advise the worker that
+in carrying out the various directions given, she
+uses exactly the materials designated. The
+directions were tested with the yarns and needles
+named and only by their use can the proper results
+be obtained. Do not substitute another yarn
+and then wonder why your work is not satisfactory.
+Use the yarn specified—</p>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div><span class='large'>BEAR BRAND</span></div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_4'>4</span>
+<img src='images/i_004.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic001'>
+<p>Young Girl’s Norfolk<br>  <br>  (<em>For description see page <a href='#Page_7'>7</a></em>)</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_5'>5</span>
+  <h2 class='c007'>CRO-KNITTING</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>“To knit from a crochet hook and crochet from
+a knitting pin” is the best description of Cro-Knitting.
+The rows of crocheting and knitting
+are worked alternately or as the various patterns
+demand. The work requires a pair of knitting
+pins (or needles, as they are sometimes called)
+and a crochet hook of the same length and size
+as the pins. The hook should be of an even thickness
+down its entire length, with a knob at the
+end, as the stitches are allowed to accumulate on
+it as in afghan stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>The work is always commenced on a knitting
+pin, the stitches being cast on in the usual manner
+(see Bear Brand Manual of Handiwork),
+followed by one or more rows of plain knitting.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>KNITTED ROWS: the wool is to be held in
+the usual manner. The first stitch is to be
+slipped or knitted as directed, but where a row of
+knitting commences with a different wool, the
+first stitch is always knitted, to keep the stripe
+distinct.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>CROCHETED ROWS: when working these
+from the knitting pin, the hook is inserted
+through the stitch on the pin, as though it were
+a second knitting pin (from left to right). When
+working into the back of a stitch, the hook is
+inserted in reverse manner (from right to left).
+When working the crocheted rows the wool is
+passed over the fingers of the left hand. When
+two knitting stitches are taken together the hook
+is passed through the stitch nearer the left hand
+(as in knitting) before entering the stitch next to
+the point of the pin. When the back threads of
+two stitches are taken together, this is reversed
+and the crochet hook enters first the stitch at the
+point of the pin. As the crocheted rows are
+worked from the stitches on the knitting pin, it
+is not possible to “skip one” as in ordinary crocheting,
+as the stitch would drop, but it is an
+easy matter to put one stitch into two knitting
+stitches taken together, thus producing an extremely
+pretty effect.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>In the instructions, when the phrase occurs “1
+double through two stitches, 1 double through the
+back of the same two stitches,” the repetition
+means that the stitches are to be held on the
+knitting pin until the second double has been
+made; then slip stitches from pin.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>When knitting from the crochet hook the point
+of the hook must be kept pointing downward to
+avoid catching the wool.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>STITCHES. The knitting stitches are merely
+the usual plain and purl. The basic crochet
+stitches are single, double and treble crochet and
+the various cluster stitches, some of which are
+illustrated.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_005.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c008'>SINGLE CROCHET STITCH.</h3>
+
+<p class='c009'>Cast on any number of stitches and knit 1 row.
+* With the crochet hook draw the wool through
+the stitch on the knitting pin; wool over hook
+and through the loop just drawn through, slip
+stitch from the pin and repeat from * all across.
+After row has been finished, there should be as
+many stitches on hook as there were on pin.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_6'>6</span>
+<img src='images/i_006a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c008'>DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH.</h3>
+
+<p class='c009'>Cast on any number of stitches and knit one
+row. Wool over hook, draw the wool through
+first stitch on pin: wool over and through the two
+loops on hook. Slip stitch from knitting pin.
+* Wool over hook, draw wool through next stitch
+on pin, wool over and through two loops, slip
+stitch from pin and repeat from * all across.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_006b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c008'>TREBLE CROCHET STITCH.</h3>
+
+<p class='c009'>Cast on any number of stitches and knit one
+row. Insert hook in first stitch and draw wool
+through, ch. 2 and slip stitch from pin. * Wool
+over hook, draw wool through next stitch on pin,
+wool over and through two loops, wool over and
+through one loop, slip stitch from pin and repeat
+from * all across.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_006c.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c008'>AUTOMOBILE STITCH.</h3>
+
+<p class='c009'>Cast on an even number of stitches and knit 4
+rows.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>First pattern row: with crochet hook pull a loop
+through first stitch, wool over and pick up another
+loop in same stitch, slip stitch from pin,
+wool over and pick up a loop in next stitch, wool
+over and through all 5 loops on hook, ch. 1, thus
+forming one cluster, slip stitch from pin, * wool
+over and pick up a loop in next stitch, slip off pin,
+wool over and pick up a loop in next stitch, wool
+over and through all 5 loops on hook, ch. 1, slip
+stitch from pin and repeat from * all across.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second pattern row: pick up a loop in the back
+thread of second and all remaining stitches, retaining
+loops on hook (as in afghan stitch). The
+loop on hook will count as first stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Knit 2 rows. These four rows constitute one
+pattern.</p>
+
+<div>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_7'>7</span>
+  <h3 class='c008'>CLUSTER STITCH.</h3>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'>Cast on an even number of stitches and knit
+one row.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_007.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: insert crochet hook in first stitch,
+draw wool through, ch. 1, slip stitch from pin.
+* Make 1 treble crochet through the next two
+stitches together, 1 double crochet through the
+back of the same two stitches, slip stitches from
+pin and repeat from * all across, ending by working
+final stitch as first was made.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Knit 3 rows. Repeat these last four rows for
+the length desired.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c008'>LATTICE WORK.</h3>
+
+<p class='c009'>This is a variation of ordinary crocheting, the
+stitches being those employed in that art.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>The work is done with regular crochet hooks
+of various sizes, as designated in the instructions.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>The novel feature is the fact, that <em>in addition</em>
+to the hook, one large wooden pin, made like an
+ordinary knitting pin, is required. On this pin
+the stitches are placed so that regularity in the
+height of the lattice work rows is attained.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>These “Lattice Pins” are made in four sizes,
+the largest. No. 1, being almost four inches in
+circumference. For fine lattice work a knitting
+pin of the desired size can be substituted.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>The work is very simple and effective.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c007'>YOUNG GIRL’S NORFOLK.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>(<em>See illustration page <a href='#Page_4'>4</a></em>)</div>
+    <div>.ce 1</div>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>5 skeins Bear Brand German Knitting Yarn.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 skein contrasting color, knitting yarn.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 pair of amber knitting pins, No. 7 (14 in. long).</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 amber crochet hook, No. 7, same length.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>Using two threads of the principal color cast
+on 46 stitches for the lower edge of sleeve. K.
+2, p. 2 for 15 rows. Knit 40 rows (20 purl). Knit
+the first stitch on pin throughout. On the 41st
+row increase by knitting 2 stitches in the first and
+last stitches of row. Continue to increase, in this
+way, on every fifth row until there are 56 stitches
+on the pin, then work without increasing, until
+there are 90 rows (45 purls) in all, for the sleeve.
+Cast on 70 stitches, knit back on these stitches
+and the 56 sleeve stitches, then cast on 70 more
+stitches. On these 196 stitches knit 30 rows. On
+the next row, k. 32, bind off 6 stitches for belt
+opening of front, knit until 42 stitches remain unworked,
+then bind off 6 stitches for belt opening
+in back. On the next row, change to a single
+thread of contrasting color and knit back casting
+on the 12 stitches which were bound off for the
+openings.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>The Cro-Knitting band is next to be made of
+contrasting color. Beginning at the lower edge of
+the front make first fancy row as follows: with
+crochet hook pull a loop through first stitch on the
+knitting pin, slip loop from pin, * pull a loop
+through next stitch, pull another loop through
+the back of same stitch, slip stitch from pin, pull a
+loop through front of next stitch and another
+through back of same stitch, hold stitch on pin,
+wool over and through 4 loops on hook, ch. 1,
+pull a loop through back stitch of cluster, then
+slip stitch from pin, wool over and repeat from *
+until one stitch remains, do not throw wool over
+after last cluster, draw loop through final stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second fancy row: k. 2, * k. the next stitch and
+the stitch that was thrown over together, k. 1 and
+repeat from * until 3 stitches remain, k. 3. Knit
+2 plain rows. Repeat the two fancy rows, knit 2
+plain rows and again repeat the two fancy rows,
+for the last fancy row changing to 2 threads of
+principal color. This completes the band. It will
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_8'>8</span>be noticed that the wrong side of the first fancy
+row is shown on the right side of band.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Knit 11 rows, on the first two of these rows
+making openings for belt as made on the other
+side of Cro-Knitting band. The last row ends at
+the lower edge of the back. Knit 98 stitches for
+the length of back and run remaining stitches on
+to a thread; turn, k. the first 2 stitches together
+then knit to the end of the row. At the end of the
+next row knit the last 2 stitches together to shape
+the neck. Knit 22 rows, then 2 rows, increasing 1
+stitch on each row, at neck end. Run these stitches
+on an extra pin or thread but do not fasten off
+wool. Take another ball and make right front.
+Cast on 94 stitches with contrasting color and knit
+4 rows, make 2 fancy rows of Cro-Knitting, knit
+1 row, on the next row make button holes, as follows:
+k. 3, * bind off 3, k. 8 and repeat from *.
+Eight button holes, in all. On the next row cast
+on the 3 stitches opposite those bound off. Knit
+one row then repeat the two fancy rows, on the
+last of these change to principal color. Knit 8
+rows, then 4 rows increasing 1 stitch at the neck
+end of each row. The last row should end at the
+neck. Fasten off wool.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Take the stitches of the back from the thread
+on to knitting pin beginning with the stitch at
+the lower edge of back and with the ball of wool
+left there, work to the lower edge of the front.
+Knit 11 plain rows, not forgetting the belt openings,
+then 1 row of contrasting color and repeat
+Cro-Knitting band as made on first side. Make
+second side of back and sleeve to match first side.
+After finishing the 15 rows of k. 2, p. 2 ribbing on
+second sleeve, knit 2 plain rows, of contrasting
+color, then repeat the Cro-Knitting band as made
+on body of garment, making four patterns instead
+of three to form turn back cuff. Make two extra
+plain rows and bind off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Pick up the 46 stitches at bottom of first sleeve
+and on them knit second cuff to match first one
+made.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Take the 98 stitches from thread and on them
+knit the left front, as follows: knit 4 rows, decreasing
+by knitting 2 stitches together at the neck end of
+each row, then knit 16 rows plain and bind off on
+wrong side.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Pick up 52 stitches around neck with contrasting
+color and knit 4 rows, 2 fancy Cro-Knitting
+rows, knit 1 row. Eighth row: k. 3, bind off 3, knit
+to end. On the next row cast on the 3 stitches
+bound off for the button hole. Knit 1 row, 2 fancy
+rows, knit 1 row and bind off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Belt: using contrasting color, cast on 134
+stitches and knit 4 rows, 2 fancy rows, k. 4 rows,
+2 fancy rows, k. 2 rows then bind off on wrong
+side.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Sew up under arm seams and sleeves.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_008.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c007'>CUTAWAY JACKET.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>½ box Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line'>2 skeins contrasting color Germantown, 4-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 amber crochet hook, No. 4, 14 inches long.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 4, same length.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'><span class='pageno' id='Page_9'>9</span>Using the principal color, cast on 78 stitches
+and work, in Raspberry stitch, as follows:</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>First row: knit plain.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: purl.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third row: with crochet hook make 1 d. c. in
+first stitch, slip stitch from pin; * 1 d. c. through
+the next two stitches, keeping the stitches on knitting
+pin, 1 s. c. through the back of the same two
+stitches. Slip the two knitted stitches from the
+pin and repeat from * all along the row, ending
+with 1 d. c. in the final stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth row: purl.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fifth row: knit.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Sixth row: like third. These six rows constitute
+one pattern and are repeated over and over
+again for the whole jacket. After four rows of
+clusters have been made, decrease by knitting
+together the two first and the two last stitches of
+the knitted row. Begin the next cluster row by
+working a whole cluster through the two first
+stitches on pin and end row in same manner
+through the two last stitches. Make one more
+row of clusters, in same way, then decrease, as
+before, on the knitted row. The next two cluster
+rows will begin and end with 1 d. c. in the
+first and last stitches.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Continue to decrease in this way, until six
+stitches in all have been decreased at each end.
+66 stitches remain. After two more cluster rows
+have been made, increase, by knitting two stitches
+in the first and last stitches of the knitted row,
+and continue to increase after <em>each</em> cluster row
+until 4 stitches have been added at each end. On
+these 74 stitches continue until the work measures
+about 23 inches, or is long enough to reach to
+the neck.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Divide for neck and shoulders, as follows: knit
+28 stitches and run them on a thread or extra
+pin; bind off 18 stitches for neck and on the remaining
+28 stitches begin the left front. Increase
+at the neck end, on each of the knitted and purled
+rows until there are 50 stitches on the pin. On
+these 50 stitches continue until four cluster rows
+have been made, then at front edge decrease 1
+stitch on each of the knitted and purled rows,
+keeping the under arm seam straight until waistline
+has been reached; then increase at the under
+arm seam on the knitted and purled rows, every
+other time. Continue decreasing on front edge,
+as before. Work until front is as long as the
+back, and bind off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Take the stitches from the thread and on them
+make the right front, as left was made, taking
+care to keep them opposites. Sew up the under arm
+seams, leaving enough space at the top for
+the arm holes.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>BORDER. Around the entire garment and
+arm holes work, in plain crocheting, as follows:</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>First round: 1 s. c. in each stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second round: 1 d. c. in each stitch of preceding
+round, putting extra stitches on rounding
+corners to prevent capping.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third round: 1 d. c. around the post of each
+d. c. of second round. No extra stitches on corners.
+When this round has been finished turn
+it back all around garment.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Using the contrasting color, work around outside
+edge, as follows: * 1 s. c. in stitch, ch. 3, another
+s. c. in same stitch, skip 1 stitch and repeat from
+* all around. Work the same finish all around
+the edge of the turned-back round, skipping one
+stitch between picots around neck and sleeves
+and on the rounding edges skipping two stitches
+between or enough to make the border perfectly
+flat.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fasten the right front over the left with crocheted
+buttons and frogs made of the contrasting
+color. The frogs are made of a chain stitch cord,
+using two threads of the wool. Use washable button
+molds and crochet a covering for them, as
+follows: ch. 3 and join in a ring, 6 s. c. in the
+ring. Do not join. 2 s. c. in each stitch of the
+preceding round, then widen enough to make
+work flat until the desired size has been attained.
+Make 1 round without widening and then skip
+every other stitch until proper size. Slip in mold,
+draw up and sew in place.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Place three buttons and frogs on each under arm
+seam.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_10'>10</span>
+<img src='images/i_010.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic001'>
+<p>Lattice Work Scarf</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_11'>11</span>
+  <h2 class='c007'>LATTICE WORK SCARF.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>13 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>4 skeins Bear Brand Rococo Wool.</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>1 amber or bone crochet hook, No. 5.</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>1 Lattice Pin, No. 1 (16 inches long).</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>(<span class='sc'>Note</span>—<em>These directions are based on 16 skeins
+to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the
+box” wool is used, the number of skeins required
+will be proportionately less.</em>)</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Using the Germantown and crochet hook, chain
+62 and turn. Make 1 double crochet stitch (1 d.
+c.) in the fourth chain from the needle and 1 d.
+c. in each of the other chains. 60 d. c. in all,
+counting the three chains skipped as 1 d. c. Turn.
+The work should measure 14 inches in length and
+be ¾ of an inch high.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: ch. 2, wool over and take up a
+loop through the front thread of the second stitch
+of previous row, wool over and through all three
+loops on needle, thus forming one short, double
+crochet stitch. Continue making 1 s. d. c. in each
+stitch to the end, always counting the chain made
+when beginning row as one stitch. Turn. 60
+stitches.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third row: chain 3, 1 d. c. in second and each
+succeeding stitch of previous row, taken through
+the double thread. 60 stitches.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat second and third rows until there are
+five rows, in all, or the work measures 3 inches
+in depth; ending with a double crochet row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>The border is next to be made. Turn and * draw
+a loop through the back thread of first stitch and
+through the loop on needle, thus forming 1 slip
+stitch (1 s. s.). Repeat from * in each stitch of
+row. Turn. Make 1 single crochet stitch in each
+stitch of double crochet row taking up the back
+thread. Through the last stitch draw the Rococo
+wool and fasten off Germantown.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Lattice Work: draw up the loop of Rococo and
+slip it on the Lattice pin. This pin is held under
+the right arm firmly. Hold the wrong side of
+work toward you and with crochet hook pull a
+loop of wool through the double threads of second
+stitch and slip it on the pin. Continue drawing
+one loop through each stitch to the end—60 loops
+on pin. Join on the Germantown and fasten off
+Rococo. Slip loops off the pin. * Draw the
+fourth, fifth and sixth loops, in turn, through the
+first three loops and make 1 s. c. in each loop as
+it is drawn through; then 1 s. c. in each of the first
+three loops, thus forming the lattice. Repeat from
+* all along row. Turn.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat the four border rows over and over
+until there are five rows of lattice work. Then
+repeat the first, second and again the first row.
+When making the second rows the stitches are to
+be taken up on the back threads of the fourth rows.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>The center is made as the second and third rows
+of scarf were made: the first row of d. c. being
+taken on back thread of border and all subsequent
+d. c. rows taken through the double thread.
+Make center 50 inches long, then repeat border.
+Make 5 rows to match beginning and then begin
+border down the side of scarf. Make a row of s. c.
+putting 3 s. c. in the end of each d. c. row and 2
+s. c. in each s. d. c. row, or enough to make work
+flat. Across the end of each lattice row chain 3.
+Be sure this row contains a multiple of six stitches.
+Turn and slip stitch on the back thread of s. c.
+stitches and across the 3 chained stitches. Continue
+as border was made on ends until two rows
+of lattice work have been made, then repeat first,
+second and again the first border rows and fasten
+off. Finish second side in same manner. Across
+the ends put a knotted-in fringe in every fourth
+stitch. Put six strands of Germantown in each
+tassel and cut strands 12 inches long.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c007'>PORCH JACKET IN CRO-KNITTING.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>5 skeins of Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line'>2 skeins contrasting color Germantown, for trimming.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 pair No. 7 amber knitting pins, 10 inches long.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 No. 7 amber crochet hook, with knob, same length.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>(<span class='sc'>Note</span>—<em>These directions are based on 16 skeins
+to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the
+box” wool is used, the number of skeins required
+will be proportionately less.</em>)</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_12'>12</span>
+<img src='images/i_012.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c004'>Using knitting pins and principal color, cast on
+28 stitches and work in Automobile Stitch (see
+page <a href='#Page_6'>6</a>) until there are four patterns of 14
+clusters each. Then increase by picking up an
+extra stitch at each end of every afghan row until
+there are 26 clusters in the row. Make three patterns
+of 26 clusters when the work should be long
+enough to reach to the neck. On the next afghan
+row, pick up 19 loops with the one on pin, (20 in
+all) and make two patterns of 10 clusters each for
+the left shoulder. On next afghan row, increase
+one stitch at the neck end, make 2 knitted rows
+then turn, pick up a loop in first stitch, wool over
+and pick up another loop in same stitch, wool over
+and through 3 loops on hook, ch. 1, thus forming
+a half cluster. Continue in regular way. On the
+next cluster row there will be eleven clusters.
+Continue increasing in this way, at neck end, ½
+cluster on each cluster row, until there are 14
+clusters in the row. Make four rows of 14 clusters.
+On the second knit row decrease as follows:
+k. 8, k. 2 together, k. 8, k. 2 tog., k. 8.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Decrease in the same way on each of the next
+3 pattern rows, having 2 stitches less between the
+decreasings on each pattern.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Make 5 patterns of 10 clusters each, knit 3 rows
+and bind off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Go back to the neck, skip 12 stitches and pick
+up the final 20 stitches for the afghan row. On
+these stitches make right front to correspond to
+left front.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Still using principal color, work around the
+entire jacket, as follows: * 1 s. c., ch. 1, skip
+enough space to make work lie flat and repeat
+from *. Draw a loop of the contrasting color
+through loop on hook. Ch. 1, draw up loop about
+¾ of an inch, * wool over, pick up a loop in the
+chain space, wool over and pick up another loop
+in same space, wool over and through all 5 loops
+on hook, ch. 1, thus forming one cluster. Repeat
+from * all around jacket putting an extra cluster
+in each corner to prevent capping. Join with a
+slip stitch in the top of first cluster. Pull a loop
+of principal color through and make cluster round
+as before, putting clusters in the top of cluster
+of preceding round, followed by a round of clusters
+in contrasting color. Final round: use principal
+color, * 1 s. c. in top of cluster ch. 4, 1 d. c.
+in same space, skip 1 cluster and repeat from * all
+around.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Lace up under arms with ribbons.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c007'>ENGLISH SLEEPING SOCKS.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>2 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2, 10 inches long.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 No. 2 amber crochet hook, 10 inches long.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>Cast on 72 stitches and purl one row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: k. 1, increase (by picking up and
+knitting the thread) k. 34, increase, knit 2, increase,
+k. 34, increase, k. 1.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'><span class='pageno' id='Page_13'>13</span>Third and every alternate row: purl.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth row: k. 2, increase, knit 34, increase, k.
+1, increase, k. 2 for center, then reverse directions.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Sixth row: k. 1, increase, k. 39, increase, knit 2
+and reverse.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Eighth row: k. 2, increase, k. 39, increase, k. 1,
+increase, k. 2 and reverse. Purl 1 row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>First pattern row: with crochet hook make 1
+double crochet (see page <a href='#Page_6'>6</a> ) in the first stitch.
+* 1 d. c. through two taken together, 1 d. c.
+through the back of the same two and repeat from
+* ending with 1 d. c. in the last stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: k. 1, increase, purl the row, ending
+by purling the last 2 stitches together.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third row: like first. Purl three rows.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat the first and second rows.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Ninth row: k. 43, * slip 1, k. 2 tog., pass the
+slipped stitch over and repeat from *, k. 43.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Tenth row: p. 40, slip 1, k. 2 tog. pass the slipped
+stitch over, p. 2, slip 1, k. 2 tog. pass the slipped
+stitch over, p. 40.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Eleventh row: (crochet) 1 d. c. * 1 d. c. through
+2, 1 d. c. in the back of same 2 and repeat from *
+17 times, more. 1 d. c. through 2, 1 d. c. through
+next 2 stitches, 1 d. c through next 2 and 1 d. c.
+in the back of same 2 (center) and reverse directions.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Twelfth row: purl 37, slip 1, k. 2 tog., pass the
+slipped stitch over, slip 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped
+stitch over, purl 37.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>On the thirteenth row the instep tab is commenced.
+Knit 33, k. 2 tog., k. 6, k. 2 tog. Turn.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourteenth row: slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 tog. Turn.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fifteenth row: slip 1, knit 6, knit 2 tog. Turn.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat the last 2 rows.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Nineteenth row: slip 1, k. 6, k. 2 tog., k. 1. Turn.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Twentieth row: slip 1, purl 7, purl 2 tog., p. 1.
+Turn.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Twenty-first row: slip 1, k. 8, k. 2 tog. Turn.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Twenty-second row: slip 1, p. 8. p. 2 tog. Turn.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat the last 2 rows until there are 40 stitches,
+in all, on the pins; then continue along the row,
+knitting the 15 stitches on the left hand needle.
+Purl 1 row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>First leg row: (crochet) 1 d. c., * 1 d. c. through
+2, 1 d. c. in the back of same 2 and repeat from *
+1 d. c. in final stitch. Purl 1 row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat first row.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_013.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth row: purl 1, increase, purl the row ending
+by purling the last 2 stitches together.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fifth row: k. 1, increase, knit along row, increase
+k. 1.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Sixth row: purl 3, increase, purl along the row,
+ending by increasing, then purling last 3.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat the first and second rows, twice, then repeat
+the fifth and sixth rows.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat these last 6 (six) pattern rows, twice,
+then make four plain rows of alternate knitting
+and purling and bind off. Sew up seams.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_14'>14</span>
+<img src='images/i_014.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic001'>
+<p>Bordered Scarf in Cro-Knitting</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_15'>15</span>
+  <h2 class='c007'>BORDERED SCARF IN CRO-KNITTING.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>9 skeins Bear Brand Shetland Floss (12 skeins to the box).</div>
+      <div class='line'>2 skeins contrasting color Shetland Floss and</div>
+      <div class='line'>3 skeins same color Bear Brand Felicity Floss.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 13.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 amber crochet hook No. 13 (14 inches long).</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>Using two threads of the principal color cast on
+50 stitches loosely and knit 14 rows (7 purls) in
+plain garter stitch. For the first stitch of each
+row, insert the needle as if to purl, slip stitch and
+put thread back under the point of the pin, thus
+forming a chain edge. The work should measure
+fifteen inches across and be three inches in depth.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>The Cro-Knitting is next to be made. Draw
+two threads of the contrasting color through (one
+of Shetland and one of Felicity) but do not break
+off the principal color: knit two rows in plain
+garter stitch; then using same color and crochet
+hook make <em>first pattern row</em>. Insert the hook
+through the loop on the knitting pin as though it
+were a second knitting pin, holding the wool over
+the fingers of the left hand. Draw wool through
+first stitch and chain 2; slip the knitted stitch from
+the pin. * Wool over from back to front and pick
+up a loop in second stitch on pin, wool over and
+through 2; wool over in same way and pick up
+a loop in first stitch, wool over and through two,
+slip the 2 knitted stitches that have been worked
+into from the pin and repeat from * all along row;
+ending with ch. 2 in final stitch as first stitch was
+made.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second pattern row: with same wool and knitting
+pin, slip 1, * over, knit 2 tog. and repeat from
+* all along row, knit final stitch. When knitting
+from the crochet hook the point of the hook must
+be kept pointing downward to avoid catching the
+wool.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third pattern row: with principal color knit 1,
+* knit 1, knit the back of next stitch and repeat
+from * ending with knit 1 in the final stitch. Make
+three plain garter stitch rows in the principal
+color, followed by 2 garter stitch rows in the
+contrasting color. These 8 rows constitute the pattern
+and are repeated five times for the border at
+each end of the scarf.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>The center of scarf is plain garter stitch and is
+45 inches long. Repeat border, then make 14 rows,
+in garter stitch and bind off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Pick up all the stitches along one side of the
+scarf with principal color and crochet hook, taking
+up both stitches of chain as one stitch and
+taking up 3 stitches in each of the stripes of contrasting
+color; knit off with knitting pin, making
+4 rows of garter stitch, then draw through contrasting
+color, dropping principal color and make
+two rows of garter stitch, next make the three
+pattern rows, then knit 3 rows of principal color
+in garter stitch and crochet off with slip stitch,
+binding off that side of scarf; repeat for the
+other side.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Make a fringe across the ends as follows: *
+insert the crochet hook in first stitch on bottom
+of scarf and with double thread of principal color,
+chain 10 loosely, pull up long loop on needle,—wool
+over, insert hook into last chain made and
+pull up long loop, repeat from—four times, wool
+over and through all loops on hook, chain 1,
+pull up long loop and catch with slip stitch in chain
+in which cluster was made, make a tight s. c.
+around chain. Chain 10, skip 7 s. c. on bottom
+of scarf, 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from * all
+across the end. With two threads of contrasting
+color, make 1 s. c. in fourth stitch and repeat fringe
+as made in principal color. To gain the cross
+effect, slip chain made and ball of wool through
+long loop of principal color before making the s. c. in
+the bottom of scarf. The fringe for each tassel
+consists of 10 loops of 20 chain stitches made with
+single thread to correspond.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_16'>16</span>
+<img src='images/i_016.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic001'>
+<p>Empire Scarf in Cro-Knitting</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_17'>17</span>
+  <h2 class='c007'>EMPIRE SCARF IN CRO-KNITTING.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>7 skeins Bear Brand Shetland Floss.</div>
+      <div class='line'>9 skeins Bear Brand Felicity Floss.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 9 (14 in. long).</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 amber crochet hook, No. 9, same length.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>(<span class='sc'>Note</span>—<em>These directions are based on 12 skeins of
+Shetland floss to the box. If the “8 skeins to the
+box” floss is used, the number of skeins required
+will be proportionately less.</em>)</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Wind the wools in separate balls.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Using a thread of each wool and the knitting
+pins, cast on 38 stitches, loosely. Knit two rows.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>First pattern row: using crochet hook, knit two
+stitches, wool over and pick up a loop around
+third stitch of first foundation row, wool over and
+draw a loop through next stitch on pin, wool over
+and through 4 loops on hook, slip stitch from
+knitting pin thus forming one cluster. Knit the
+next stitch, * wool over, skip one stitch on first
+row and make cluster, (as before) around the next
+stitch and the stitch on pin, knit 1 stitch and repeat
+from * to the end of the row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second pattern row: k. 2 in the first and last
+stitches of preceding row and k. 1 in each intervening
+stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third pattern row: using crochet hook, k. 1, 1
+cluster around end stitch of second pattern row
+and stitch on pin, k. 1, then work like first row,
+ending the row with knit 2.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth row: like second.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat these four rows until the scarf is the
+desired width, about 20 inches, then omit the
+widening stitches on the knitted rows, making all
+the crocheted rows like first row, until the work
+is 68 inches in length. Make second end of scarf
+to match first end; decreasing on each knitted row
+by knitting together the two first and two last
+stitches, being careful to preserve the pattern.
+When there are again 38 stitches on needle, bind
+off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Down the side of scarf work scallop as follows:
+* 1 single crochet stitch in first stitch, ch. 2, 1
+double crochet stitch in same stitch, skip enough
+space to make work smooth and repeat from *
+to the end. This is ordinary crocheting.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Across the end work in knot stitch as follows:
+* draw up the loop on hook about ¾ in., wool
+over and through loop this time very short since
+it is really the first loop of an s. c. Take up the
+second loop of the s. c. through the new long
+loop. Pull wool through the 2 loops on needle
+and the s. c. (or knot as it is called) is finished.
+The present loop on the needle should be pulled
+up long and corresponds to the first loop made.
+When it is pulled up, hold the knot just made between
+the thumb and forefinger and repeat directions
+from *. Skip one stitch on edge of scarf
+and make 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from beginning
+all across edge. Make scallop on second
+side and finish second end like first.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Cut the wool for fringe in ten-inch lengths and
+knot 4 threads of each wool through the s. c. in
+the center of each knot stitch loop.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_017.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c007'>SCHOOL BAG IN LATTICE WORK.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>10 balls Bear Macramé, No. 100.</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>1 wood knitting pin, No. 1.</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>1 Star crochet hook, No. 1.</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>2 bone rings, at least 2 inches in diameter.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>Using crochet hook, chain 101; turn, skip 1 chain
+and make 1 single crochet stitch (1 s. c.) in each
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_18'>18</span>chain to the end. The work should measure full
+20 inches. If a deeper bag is desired, the row
+should contain a multiple of 4 stitches, but more
+material will be required.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: turn and make 1 slip stitch, as follows,
+on the back thread of each stitch of preceding
+row: insert the hook and draw cord through
+stitch and the loop on hook.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third row: turn, 1 s. c. in the back thread of
+each of the s. c. stitches of first row, being careful
+to work into first stitch which is inclined to draw
+down and be overlooked.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Lattice row: draw up a long loop and slip it on
+the knitting pin, draw working thread in place.
+The pin is held under right arm firmly. Hold
+wrong side of work toward you and with crochet
+hook * pull a long loop of cord through the
+double threads of second stitch, slip it on pin,
+draw working thread in place and repeat from *
+in each stitch of row. 100 loops on pin. Slip
+loops from pin.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fifth row: turn, * draw the third loop
+through the two first loops and in it
+make 1 s. c., draw fourth loop through and in
+it make 1 s. c., then 1 s. c. in each of the first
+and second loops, thus forming the lattice. Repeat
+from * all along row. Turn. Repeat second and
+third rows, for the latter taking up the back thread
+of stitches of fifth row. The second, third, fourth
+and fifth rows constitute one pattern and are repeated
+until there are 14 lattice rows: then repeat
+the second and third rows. Fold in center and slip
+stitch together working on right side.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Make second bag in same manner.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Around the top of each bag crochet, as follows:
+beginning in the center heavy bar, of one side
+make 1 s. c. * ch. 2, 2 s. c. in next heavy bar and
+repeat from * all around ending with 1 s. c. in the
+center bar in which round was commenced, join
+and fasten off for one bag. For the second bag,
+after joining, draw up loop and work in knot
+stitch, as follows: draw up the loop on hook a
+<em>full</em> ½ inch, cord over and through loop this time
+very short since it is really the first loop of a
+single crochet. Take up the second loop of the s.
+c. through the new long loop. Pull cord through
+the 2 loops on needle and the s. c. (or knot as it
+called) is finished. The present loop on the needle
+should be pulled up long and corresponds to first
+loop made. When it is pulled up, hold the knot
+just made between the thumb and forefinger and
+repeat from *. Skip 4 chains on the top of bag
+and make 1 s. c. in each of the next 2 stitches and
+repeat from beginning all around the top of bag.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: make 3 loops and 3 knots, as before,
+to turn 1 s. c. through the double thread on
+right side of last knot of first row and another
+s. c. on left side of knot (skipping the s. c. worked
+in first row), * then 2 loops and 2 knots catching
+down in next knot of second row, with 2 s. c.
+Repeat from * across row, a perfect square of 4
+loops being formed every time the loops are caught
+down.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat second row until the center of knot
+stitch measures 12 inches then slip rings over and
+join on second bag to match first.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Around the opening formed by the knot stitch,
+make * 1 slip stitch in knot, ch. 3 and repeat from
+* all around.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c007'>AFGHAN WITH DIAMOND STRIPE.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>13 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 8-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>9 skeins contrasting color, Germantown, 8-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 9 (10 in. long).</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>1 amber crochet hook, No. 9, same length.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>(<span class='sc'>Note</span>—<em>These directions are based on 16 skeins
+to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the
+box” wool is used, the number of skeins required
+will be proportionately less.</em>)</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>The Cro-Knitting stripe is made first. Cast on
+26 stitches with the principal color. Knit two
+plain rows.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 tog. and repeat from
+* across row, k. last stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth row: k. 2, * k. the over st., k. 1 and
+repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Knit two rows plain.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Seventh row: with contrasting color and crochet
+hook, pull a loop through the first stitch, ch. 1
+tightly, k. 1, wool over twice, pick up a loop, inserting
+hook from first to second opening in third
+row, wool over, through 2 loops on needle, wool
+over, pick up another loop in same space, wool
+over and through 3 loops on needle, again wool
+over and through 3 loops on needle, * k. the next
+two stitches tog., wool over twice, pick up a loop
+from the second to third opening in third row,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_19'>19</span>wool over and through 2, wool over and pick up
+another loop in same place, wool over and through
+3, again wool over and through 3 and repeat from
+* across row, k. the last 2 stitches.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Eighth row: with same wool and knitting pin,
+k. 3. * on the contrasting thread before the next
+stitch knit 1 stitch, then knit next stitch and repeat
+from *, knit last stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>With principal color knit 4 rows.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>These last ten rows constitute one pattern.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat 18 times when the stripe should be about
+31 inches long and seven inches wide.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Bind off. Make 2 more stripes in same manner.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_019.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c004'>Diamond Stripe: cast on 13 stitches.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>First row: knit plain.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: k. 2, p. 9, k. 2.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third row: knit plain.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth row: like second.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fifth row: k. 6, p. 1, k. 6.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Sixth row: k. 2, p. 3, k. 3, p. 3, k. 2.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Seventh row: k. 4, p. 5, k. 4.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Eighth row: k. 2, p. 1, k. 7, p. 1, k. 2.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Ninth row: like seventh.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Tenth row: like sixth.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Eleventh row: like fifth.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat from the beginning of the second row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>These ten rows constitute one pattern and are
+made over and over again until stripe is same length
+as Cro-Knitting stripes. Make another stripe in
+same way.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Join the stripes alternately, with single crochet
+stitches worked on wrong side of afghan.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Border. Across each end, with contrasting
+color, make scallops, as follows: 1 s. c. in first
+stitch, ch. 2, * wool over needle twice, skip about
+4 stitches, (arranging scallops so that there are
+3 on the Cro-Knitting stripe and 1 in the center of
+Diamond stripe) pick up a loop, wool over and
+through 2, wool over and pick up another loop
+in same place, wool over and through 2, wool
+over and pick up third loop in same place,
+wool over and through 2, wool over and
+through 4, wool over and through 2, ch. 2 and
+repeat from * twice, 3 clusters in same stitch, ch.
+1, skip the required space, 1 s. c., ch. 1 and make
+same scallop all across.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>With principal color make * 1 s. c. in first space
+of scallop, ch. 2, — 1 d. c. around the post at the
+top of first cluster, ch. 2, 1 s. c. in next space.
+Repeat from — twice. Ch. 2, 1 s. c. around the
+s. c. of row below, ch. 2 and repeat from * all
+across scallops.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Down each side, work as follows: * 1 s. c., ch.
+2, 1 d. c. around the s. c. just made, skip enough
+space to make work lie flat, 1 s. c., ch. 1, skip as
+before and repeat.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_20'>20</span>
+<img src='images/i_020.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic001'>
+<p>Persian Scarf</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_21'>21</span>
+  <h2 class='c007'>PERSIAN SCARF.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>13 skeins Bear Brand Shetland Floss.</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>4 skeins Bear Brand Persian Lamb Wool</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 13 (14 in. long).</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>1 amber crochet hook No. 13, same length.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>(<span class='sc'>Note</span>—<em>These directions are based on 12 skeins of
+Shetland floss to the box. If the “8 skeins to the
+box” floss is used, the number of skeins required
+will be proportionately less.</em>)</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Wind the Shetland Floss in separate balls and
+use two threads. Cast on 200 stitches which
+should make length of scarf two yards.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>First row: with two threads of Shetland and one
+of Persian Lamb used together knit each stitch:
+turn.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: divide threads holding the Persian
+Lamb at the back of work, as regular knitting
+thread is used and the two threads of Shetland in
+front of work, toward left hand. * With crochet
+hook, pull a loop of Persian Lamb through first
+stitch, drop stitch from knitting pin then throw
+Shetland Floss over hook and draw it through the
+loop of Persian Lamb just made. Repeat from *
+in each stitch of previous row, always keeping
+Shetland Floss in front of work.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat the first and second rows, twice.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Seventh row: drop the Persian Lamb wool
+temporarily, add two more threads of Shetland
+Floss and using the four threads together knit 2
+rows in plain garter stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat first and second rows, then two rows as
+seventh row was made and again repeat first and
+second rows.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>This completes the border. Fasten off the
+Persian Lamb wool and substitute for it two
+threads of Shetland Floss.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat first and second rows alternately until
+there are 20 ridges, which should measure full 12
+inches for the center of the scarf.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat the border as made on the other edge
+and bind off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Finish ends as follows: with two threads of
+Shetland Floss make 1 single crochet stitch in first
+stitch, * skip about an inch and a half along edge
+and make 13 treble crochet stitches (winding the
+thread over the hook twice) in next stitch, skip
+same space on edge and make 1 s. c. in the next
+stitch and repeat from *. There should be six of
+these large shells across end. Do not break off
+wool but work along the side of scarf, as follows:
+* 1 s. c., ch. 3, 1 s. c. around the post of the first
+s. c., skip 1 st. and repeat from * all along. Work
+the shells across second end and the scallop along
+second side, then fasten off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>With Persian Lamb wool work across ends, as
+follows: fasten wool in first stitch of previous row,
+* pull out loop 2 inches, pull wool through loop
+and make a tight ch. stitch to fasten it and repeat
+from * twice more, make 1 s. c. in same space on
+edge where wool was fastened 1 s. c. in first space
+of shell, ch. 1., skip 1 space, 1 s. c. in next space
+of shell and repeat until the center stitch has been
+reached. There pull up loop and fasten as before,
+make another two-inch loop and fasten; then
+1 s. c. in the middle space of shell. * Ch. 1, skip
+1 space, 1 s. c. in next space and repeat from *
+twice, then 1 s. c. in the single crochet stitch between
+shells and repeat from the beginning of
+row.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c007'>POLISH AFGHAN.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>51 skeins Bear Brand Zephyr Germantown, 8-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line'>24 skeins contrasting color, 8-fold Germantown.</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 9.</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>1 amber crochet hook, No. 9 (14 inches long).</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>(<span class='sc'>Note</span>—<em>These directions are based on 16 skeins
+to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the
+box” wool is used, the number of skeins required
+will be proportionately less.</em>)</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>STRIPE IN CRO-KNITTING: with the principal
+color cast on 30 stitches and knit three rows.
+Do not break off wool.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Change to the contrasting color and knit 2
+rows; then using same color and crochet hook
+make first pattern row. Insert the hook through
+the loop on the knitting pin as though it were a
+second knitting pin holding the wool over the
+fingers of the left hand. Draw wool through first
+stitch and chain 2. Slip the knitted stitch from
+needle. * Wool over from back to front and pick
+up a loop in second stitch on pin, wool over and
+through 2; wool over in same way and pick up a
+loop in first stitch, wool over and through 2, slip
+the 2 knitted stitches that have been worked into
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_22'>22</span>from the pin and repeat from * all along row; ending
+with ch. 2 in final stitch as first stitch was
+made.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second pattern row: with same wool and knitting
+pin, slip 1, * over, knit 2 together and repeat
+from * all along row. Knit final stitch. When
+knitting from the crochet hook, the point of the
+hook must be kept pointing downward to avoid
+catching the wool.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third row: with principal color, knit 1, * knit 1,
+knit the back of next stitch and repeat from *
+ending with knit 1 in the final stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Make three plain garter stitch rows in the principal
+color, followed by 2 garter stitch rows in
+the contrasting color.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>These 8 rows constitute one pattern and are
+repeated over and over until the stripe measures
+68 inches. Finish with the garter stitch row of
+principal color. This stripe should be 8½ inches
+wide.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_022.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c004'>Make three more stripes in Cro-Knitting.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Braided Twist stripe: with the principal color,
+cast on 19 stitches and knit first row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: knit 5, purl 9, k. 5.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third row: k. 5, slip the next 3 stitches on to a
+spare pin and drop them <em>in front</em> of the work, k. 3,
+knit the 3 stitches slipped, k. 8.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth row: like second.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fifth row: knit plain.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Sixth row: like second.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Seventh row: k. 8., slip the next 3 stitches on to
+extra pin and drop them <em>behind</em> the work, k. 3,
+knit the 3 stitches slipped off, k. 5.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Eighth row: like second.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat these eight rows until the stripe is same
+length as the Cro-Knitting stripes. Make 2 more
+stripes of same length.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Join the stripes, one of each kind alternately,
+working with principal color in s. c. and on the
+wrong side.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'><span class='pageno' id='Page_23'>23</span>The border around entire afghan is made of the
+braided twist stripe as the connecting stripes were
+made. Each corner is mitered as follows: cast on
+one stitch and in it knit 1 stitch, then knit a second
+stitch on the back thread of same stitch, thus
+increasing, turn, knit 2 stitches in first stitch, one
+stitch in next.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Continue increasing 1 stitch on each row always
+on the same side and being careful to carry out the
+directions for the pattern until there are 19 stitches
+on the pin. Keep outside edge straight. Then
+work until stripe is desired length and decrease
+by knitting together 2 stitches at the same end of
+every row as the increasing was done. Sew up the
+mitered corners and sew or crochet border on
+working from wrong side, as before.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c007'>ANGORA ROSEBUD CAP.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>(Six months size.)</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+  <div class='nf-center'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>3 balls (½ oz.) Three Rabbit Angora wool, or 9 small balls.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 amber crochet hook, No. 3.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>Work rather loosely.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Ch. 3 and join in a ring. Make six single crochet
+stitches (6 s. c.) in the ring. Do not join as
+the work is done around and around both threads
+of stitch of previous round being taken up
+throughout the work.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second round: 2 s. c. in each stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third round: * 2 s. c. in first stitch, 1 s. c. in
+each of the next two stitches and repeat from *
+all around.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth round: * 2 s. c. in first stitch, 1 s. c. in
+each of the next 4 stitches and repeat from * all
+around.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Continue working, increasing just enough to
+keep the work perfectly flat, until the crown is
+four inches in diameter. For a larger size this
+diameter must be increased. There are 12
+rounds in the model cap. At the end of last
+round, turn and work back for 10 stitches (about
+2 inches) to form the neck rows. Turn, * skip
+one stitch, 1 s. c. in next and repeat from * 5
+stitches on neck. Put one more s. c. in last
+stitch then work around crown to the other end
+of the neck rows, putting 1 s. c. in each stitch
+of previous round. Turn. Work back and forth
+to form front of cap without widening for 24
+rows, in all, being careful to make first and last
+stitches of each row rather tighter than the rest
+so that the neck of cap is kept a good shape.
+There are 56 stitches on these rows on the model
+cap, which measure 12½ inches from end to end.
+The front should now be the desired depth, if not
+add more rows.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_023.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c004'>Final row of front: 19 s. c., 1 s. c. through the
+next two stitches taken together, 3 s. c., narrow
+as before, 4 s. c., narrow, 3 s. c., narrow, 19 s. c.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Chain 3, turn and work a row of ribbon holes
+across neck part, as follows: * skip 2 rows, 1 d. c.
+in the end of next row, ch. 1 and repeat from
+* all across, skipping one stitch on bottom of
+crown.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Border: ch. 3, * 1 s. c. in first stitch of front,
+chain 3, skip 3 and repeat from * all around front
+and neck, skipping fewer stitches at corners, to
+prevent capping.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Final round: * 1 s. c. in space, chain 3, one d.
+c. in same space and repeat from * all around.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_24'>24</span>
+<img src='images/i_024.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic001'>
+<p>Dresden Set<br>  <br>  Coat, Cap and Bootees</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_25'>25</span>
+  <h2 class='c007'>DRESDEN BABY COAT.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>3 skeins Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line'>2 skeins green, Glossilla Rope, No. 264.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 skein pink, Glossilla Rope, No. 200.</div>
+      <div class='line'>2 skeins blue, Glossilla Rope, No. 108.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2 (10 in. long).</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 amber crochet hook, No. 2 (10 inches long).</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>(<span class='sc'>Note</span>—<em>These directions are based on 20 skeins
+to the box Saxony. If the “12 skeins to the box”
+wool is used the amount will be proportionately
+less.</em>)</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>The yoke is made first. Chain 80 and work in
+afghan stitch (see Bear Brand Manual of Handiwork)
+for fifteen rows. The shoulders are next
+to be formed. Pick up the first 29 stitches and on
+them make 2 rows, then 2 more rows, on each of
+these rows picking up an extra stitch at the neck
+end; then with another ball of wool add a chain
+of 16 there and on the 47 stitches work 16 rows.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>On the next row, work as follows: pick up perpendicular
+bar as usual then draw wool through
+stitch on needle, thus working off. Continue in
+this way until 18 stitches remain and on these
+stitches work the front tab. This should measure
+eleven inches, from the neck to end.
+Work off stitches, as before. Go back to neck and
+omitting 22 stitches there, work the second
+shoulder on the remaining 29 stitches, taking care
+to keep them opposites.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>For the lower part of jacket, using the knitting
+pins, cast on 140 stitches. Knit three rows.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth row: with crochet hook make 1 d. c.
+(see page <a href='#Page_6'>6</a>) in first stitch, * 1 d. c. through the
+next 2 stitches (drawing up the loop high), keep
+stitches on pin, pick up a loop through the back
+of the same two stitches then slip them off pin and
+repeat from * ending row with 1 d. c. in the final
+stitch. These four rows constitute one pattern
+and are repeated over and over until sixteen patterns
+have been made. The arm holes are next
+to be made. On the fourth row of next pattern
+make 1 d. c. then 15 clusters as usual, then run
+all the remaining stitches on a thread or extra
+pin and on these 31 stitches work eight short rows,
+in all, and bind off. Take 31 stitches from the
+end of thread and make second front to match
+first. Bind off 4 stitches at each end of the remaining
+stitches for the armhole and on the 70
+stitches left, make the back the same length as the
+fronts.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Sleeve. Cast on 48 stitches and make 11 patterns
+and three extra rows of plain knitting: then
+slip on hook and make 9 rows of afghan stitch
+for the cuff. Work off. Make second sleeve like
+first and sew up.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Around the neck make a row of ribbon holes,
+as follows: * 1 d. c., ch. 1, skip 1 and repeat from
+* all across, make 1 row of s. c. and fasten off.
+Baste the lower part of jacket to the yoke, holding
+the extra fullness across the back and fronts
+evenly. Join to yoke with slip stitches worked on
+wrong side. Sew sleeves in place.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Work pearl edge on all the edges and around the
+yoke and top of cuffs, as follows: 1 s. c. around
+the post of foundation, ch. 3, wool over hook and
+pick up a loop through s. c. just made, wool over
+and pick up another loop in same place * skip 1
+stitch on foundation, draw a loop around the next
+stitch and through all the loops on hook, ch. 3.
+Wool over and through the third ch. from hook,
+wool over and through the same place and repeat
+from *.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Embroider the Dresden figures, as illustrated.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c007'>DRESDEN BABY CAP.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>2 skeins Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 skein each, Glossilla Rope, Nos. 264, 200, 108.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2 (10 in. long.)</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 amber crochet hook, No. 2 (10 inches long).</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>Chain 16 and work in afghan stitch for 2 rows.
+On the third row widen one stitch when beginning
+and ending row by picking up an extra loop. Continue
+to work in afghan stitch, widening, as before,
+on the sixth, eleventh, fifteenth and twentieth rows.
+On each of the next seven rows narrow one stitch
+at each end of row by picking up 2 perpendicular
+threads together. This completes the back of cap.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Front band: chain 122 and make 13 rows in
+afghan stitch, finishing final row as directed for
+Dresden Baby Coat.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>The center of cap is in Cro-Knitting. It is begun
+at the front. Using the knitting pins cast on 118
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_26'>26</span>stitches and work as directed for lower part of
+coat.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>On the third row of second pattern, work as
+follows: k. 28, * k. 2 in the next stitch, k. 1 and
+repeat from * until 28 stitches remain, k. 28. Continue
+without further increase until there are 11
+patterns, in all, then knit 3 rows and bind off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Join the Cro-Knitted center to the front with
+slip stitches worked on the wrong side. Draw the
+other edge in on a gathering thread of wool and
+sew around the back of crown.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_026.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic001'>
+<p><span class='sc'>Detail of Dresden Embroidery</span><br>  <br>  × <em>Green Glossilla</em>&#8196; &#8196; &#8196; &#8196; &#8196; &#8196; + <em>Pink Glossilla</em>&#8196; &#8196; &#8196; ◈ <em>Blue Glossilla</em></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c004'>Around the entire cap and the joinings work in
+pearls, as directed for coat.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Embroider the Dresden figures, as illustrated.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Line the cap with silk.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c007'>DRESDEN BOOTEES.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>1 skein Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 skein each, Glossilla Rope, Nos. 264, 200, 108.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2 (10 in. long.)</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 amber crochet hook, No. 2.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>Using the crochet hook, chain 12 and work in
+afghan stitch for 27 rows. On the next row narrow
+by picking up the second and third perpendicular
+threads together, also the two just before
+the final stitch. Make one more row in same
+way and work off as directed.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fasten wool to the tenth row from point, ch.
+26 and join to same place on other side of
+afghan stripe. On these stitches the foot is to be
+made. Make 1 s. c. in each stitch all around leg
+and tab, putting an extra s. c. in each corner of
+the tab.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Continue working around and around in s. c.,
+taking up both threads of stitch of preceding round
+until 4 rounds, in all, have been made, on each
+round putting 2 s. c. in the stitch on each
+side of the center stitch of tab.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>On the next round leave 3 stitches in the center
+of tab, working 1 s. c. in each and increase in the
+stitches on each side of them, in the regular way.
+Sixth and seventh rounds: narrow each side of
+center stitch by skipping a stitch there. Eighth
+and ninth rounds: narrow at toe and also at heel
+by skipping 1 stitch at each side of center of heel.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'><span class='pageno' id='Page_27'>27</span>Turn bootee and join with s. c.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Make a row of ribbon holes around the back
+of bootee, as follows: fasten wool in the 12th row
+from point of afghan stitch tab * ch. 1, skip 1, 1
+d. c. in next and repeat from * all across.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>With the knitting pin pick up a loop in each
+stitch of preceding row and knit 2 rows.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>First pattern row: which should be worked on
+the wrong side of bootee. With crochet hook
+make 1 d. c. in first stitch, * 1 d. c. through the
+next 2 stitches (drawing up the loop high), keep
+stitches on pin, pick up a loop through the back
+of the same 2 stitches then slip them off pin and
+repeat from * ending row with 1 d. c. in the final
+stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Knit 3 rows. These four rows constitute one
+pattern. Repeat until there are six patterns in all,
+and bind off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Work all around tab and top of bootee with
+pearls, as directed for coat.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Embroider with Dresden figures, as illustrated
+and trim with ribbon.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c007'>KNITTED ANGORA BOOTEES.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>2 balls (½ oz.) Three Rabbit Angora Wool or 8 small balls.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 pair Bear Brand nickeled knitting pins, No. 8.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 small bone crochet hook.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>Cast on 30 stitches. Purl 1 row, knit 1 row, *
+purl 2 rows, knit 2 rows. Repeat from * twice, then
+purl 2 rows.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Seventeenth row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 together and
+repeat from *, ending row with k. 1. Purl one
+row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>The foot of the bootee is in plain garter stitch
+throughout. First row: k. 14, over, k. 2, over, k.
+14. Second row: plain.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat the first and second rows until 21 rows
+in all have been made for the foot. On each
+widened row there will be one more stitch on each
+side of the widenings that are required to shape
+the front. The 2 center stitches are knitted between
+widenings always.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>On the 52 stitches, on needle, knit 5 rows.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Twenty-seventh and twenty-ninth rows: narrow
+by knitting the second and third stitches together
+and the two next to last stitches together. All the
+even numbered rows are plain, without increase or
+decrease.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_027.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c004'>Thirty-first row: k. 1, narrow (k. 2 tog.), k. 16,
+narrow, k. 6, narrow, k. 16, narrow, k. 1.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Thirty-third row: k. 1, narrow, k. 14, narrow, k.
+6, narrow, k. 14, narrow, k. 1.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Thirty-fifth row: k. 1, narrow, k. 12, narrow, k.
+2, narrow, k. 2, narrow, k. 12, narrow, k. 1.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Bind off. Sew up the back seam and sole: then
+crochet an edge of tiny shells around the top, as
+follows: * 1 s. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c. in same place, skip
+2 stitches and repeat from *.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_28'>28</span>
+<img src='images/i_028.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic001'>
+<p>Dresden Baby Afghan</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_29'>29</span>
+  <h2 class='c007'>DRESDEN BABY AFGHAN.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>11 skeins white, Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>2 skeins green Glossilla Rope, No. 264.</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>2 skeins blue Glossilla Rope, No. 108.</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>1 skein pink Glossilla Rope, No. 200.</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 4, 14 inches long.</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>1 amber crochet hook No. 4, same length.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>(<span class='sc'>Note</span>—<em>These directions are based on 16 skeins
+to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the
+box” wool is used, the number of skeins required
+will be proportionately less.</em>)</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>The Cro-Knitted center of afghan is made first.
+Cast on 98 stitches and work as directed for lower
+part of “Dresden Baby Coat” (see page <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>)
+until 40 patterns have been made. The work
+should be about 21 inches wide and 28 inches
+deep. Bind off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>BORDER: chain 108 and work in afghan stitch
+as directed for “Afghan Stitch Stripe” (see page
+<a href='#Page_36'>36</a>) for 7 rows, widening by picking up an extra
+stitch at each end of every row. The first of
+these rows should be the exact width of the Cro-Knitted
+center. Final row: pick up loop, as usual,
+then draw wool through loop on hook.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>For the afghan stitch side stripe, chain 7 and
+make stripe same length as center, narrowing
+one stitch (by picking up last two bars together)
+on the <em>same</em> side of each of the last seven rows
+to form the mitered corner. Make another stripe
+in same manner, taking care to keep them opposites.
+Sew up the mitered corners, then baste
+border to center. Use the wrong side of the
+fourth row of center as the right side of the work.
+Holding the right side of afghan stitch border
+toward you, make 1 short, double crochet stitch
+(1 s. d. c.) as follows through the first afghan
+stitch and the center: wool over and draw a loop
+through stitch, wool over and through all three
+loops on hook. Repeat in each stitch on all three
+sides of afghan, putting extra stitches at corners,
+to prevent capping. Holding the wrong side of
+work toward you, make a round of s. d. c. in
+same manner on the edge of afghan stitch border.
+Turn.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Work back around the three sides in double
+crochet stitches, putting the stitches between the
+s. d. c. stitches of preceding round. Put 3 d. c.
+in each corner. Fasten off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Go back to other end and make puffs around
+the three sides, as follows: * 5 d. c. in the first
+stitch, drop loop and insert hook through the
+first d. c. made, draw loop through, ch. 1, skip 1
+stitch of preceding round and repeat from *.
+After the ch. 1 draw loop, on hook, up a little to
+prevent work from drawing in at the top. Do
+not skip any stitches at the corners, but skip 2
+stitches between puffs when working across the
+bottom of afghan. Fasten off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Go back, as before, * 1 d. c. in the top of puff,
+1 d. c. in the next chain and repeat from * on all
+three sides. Extra stitches in corners. Fasten off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Final round: 1 s. c. in first stitch, * ch. 4—wool
+over and pick up a loop in first ch. made, wool
+over and through 2 loops on hook, repeat from—three
+times, wool over and through all 5 loops
+on hook, ch. 1, skip 2 stitches, 1 s. c. in next and
+repeat from *. Skip only one stitch on each side
+of corners, to prevent capping.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>TURN OVER: ch. 122 and work 3 rows in
+afghan stitch. On the fourth row narrow by
+picking up second and third bars together, also
+the two bars just preceding the final bar together.
+Repeat these four rows, twice; then narrow on
+every third row three times. Narrow on every
+second row until there are 30 rows in all, then
+work off as final row of afghan border was done.
+Sew to top of afghan, then make the five border
+rounds, as before, beginning with the short,
+double crochet round.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Embroider as illustrated.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'><em>For detail of embroidery see page <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>.</em></p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_30'>30</span>
+<img src='images/i_030.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic001'>
+<p>Child’s Norfolk</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_31'>31</span>
+  <h2 class='c007'>CHILD’S NORFOLK.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>11 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 7 (14 in. long).</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>1 amber crochet hook, No. 7, same length.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>(<span class='sc'>Note</span>—<em>These directions are based on 16 skeins
+to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the
+box” wool is used, the number of skeins required
+will be proportionately less.</em>)</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Cast on 46 stitches for the lower edge of sleeve.
+K. 2, p. 2 for 15 rows. Knit 40 rows (20 purls).
+Knit the first stitch on needle throughout. On the
+41st row increase by knitting 2 stitches in the first
+and last stitches of row. Continue to increase, in
+this way, on every fifth row until there are 56
+stitches on the pin, then work, without increasing,
+until there are 90 rows (45 purls) in all, for the
+sleeve. Cast on 70 stitches, knit back on these
+stitches and the 56 sleeve stitches, then cast on
+70 more stitches. On these 196 stitches knit 30
+rows. On the next row, k. 32, bind off 6 stitches
+for belt opening of front, knit until 42 stitches remain
+unworked, then bind off 6 stitches for belt
+opening in back. On the next row, cast on 12
+stitches which were bound off for openings.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>The Cro-Knitting band is next to be made. Beginning
+at the lower edge of the front make first
+fancy row, as follows: with crochet hook pull a
+loop through first stitch on knitting pin, slip loop
+from pin * pull a loop through next stitch, pull
+another loop through the back of same stitch, slip
+stitch from pin, pull a loop through front of next
+stitch and another through back of same stitch,
+hold stitch on pin, wool over and through 4 loops
+on hook, ch. 1, pull a loop through back stitch of
+cluster, then slip stitch from pin, wool over and repeat
+from * until one stitch remains, do not throw
+wool over after last cluster, draw loop through
+final stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second fancy row: k. 2, * k. the next stitch and
+the stitch that was thrown over together, k. 1 and
+repeat from * until 3 stitches remain, k. 3.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Knit 2 plain rows. Repeat the two fancy rows,
+knit 2 plain rows and again repeat the two fancy
+rows. This completes the band. It will be noticed
+that the wrong side of the first fancy row is shown
+on the right side of band.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Knit 11 rows on the first two of these rows,
+make openings for belt as made on the other side
+of Cro-Knitting band. The last row ends at the
+lower edge of back. Knit 98 stitches for the length
+of back and run remaining stitches on to a thread;
+turn, k. the first 2 stitches together then knit to
+the end of row. At the end of next row knit the
+last 2 stitches together to shape the neck. Knit 22
+rows, then 2 rows, increasing 1 stitch on each row,
+at neck end. Run these stitches on an extra pin
+or thread, but do not fasten off wool. Take another
+ball and make right front. Cast on 94 stitches
+and knit 4 rows, make two fancy rows of Cro-Knitting,
+knit 1 row, on the next row make button
+holes, as follows: k. 3, * bind off 3, k. 8 and repeat
+from *. Eight button holes, in all. On the
+next row cast on 3 stitches opposite those bound
+off. Knit one row then repeat the two fancy rows.
+Knit 8 rows, then 4 rows increasing one stitch at
+the neck end of each row. The last row should
+end at the neck. Fasten off wool.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Take the stitches of the back from the thread
+on to knitting pin beginning with the stitch at the
+lower edge of back and with the ball of wool left
+there work to the lower edge of the front. Knit
+12 plain rows not forgetting the belt openings, then
+repeat Cro-Knitting band as made on first side.
+Make second side of back and sleeve to match first
+side. After finishing the 15 rows of k. 2, p. 2 ribbing
+on second sleeve, knit 2 plain rows then repeat
+the Cro-Knitting band as made on body of
+garment, making four patterns instead of three to
+form the turn back cuff. Make two extra plain
+rows and bind off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Pick up the 46 stitches at bottom of first sleeve
+and on them knit second cuff to match first one
+made.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Take the 98 stitches from thread and on them
+knit the left front, as follows: knit 4 rows, decreasing
+by knitting 2 stitches together at the neck end
+of each row, then knit 16 rows plain and bind off
+on wrong side.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Pick up 52 stitches around neck and knit 4 rows,
+2 fancy Cro-Knitting rows, knit 1 row. Eighth
+row: k. 3, bind off 3, knit to end. On the next row
+cast on the 3 stitches bound off for the button hole.
+Knit 1 row, 2 fancy rows, knit 1 row and bind off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Belt: cast on 134 stitches and knit 4 rows, 2
+fancy rows, k. 4 rows, 2 fancy rows, k. 2 rows then
+bind off on wrong side.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Sew up under arm seams and sleeves.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_32'>32</span>
+<img src='images/i_032.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic001'>
+<p>Star Stitch Scarf in Cro-Knitting</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_33'>33</span>
+  <h2 class='c007'>STAR STITCH SCARF IN CRO-KNITTING.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>7 skeins white, Bear Brand Shetland Floss (12 skeins to the box).</div>
+      <div class='line'>2 skeins of darkest contrasting color.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 skein each, of two next lighter shades.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 pair No. 11 amber knitting pins (14 in. long).</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 amber crochet hook No. 11, same length.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>The entire scarf is made of two threads of Shetland
+Floss. Wind the balls separately.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Using two threads of white cast on 187 stitches,
+loosely, for the length of scarf which should be
+about two yards. Knit 2 rows: then drop one
+thread of white and fasten on a thread of the
+lightest shade of Floss and knit 2 rows. Make
+two rows of next shade and 2 rows of the darkest
+shade always carrying one thread of white wool.
+For the center of stripe make 2 rows of two
+threads of the darkest shade. Work back reversing
+the shades to match first half, finishing stripe
+with 2 rows of all white. The star stitch stripe is
+next to be made.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>First row: use white wool and change to crochet
+hook. Insert hook into first stitch on pin and pull
+a loop through (retaining stitch on knitting pin).
+Ch. 2, skip first chain, pick up a loop in second
+chain from hook, one in the first loop, which is
+then slipped from pin, then a loop in each of the
+next 2 stitches which are slipped off in turn, wool
+over and through 4 loops, ch. 1. There are now
+two stitches on crochet hook.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>For the second star, * draw wool through eye of
+preceding star (the little hole formed by stitch
+just made), through back of last loop of preceding
+star and through each of the next 2 stitches on
+the knitting pin, wool over and through 4, ch. 1.
+Repeat from * to the end of the row. Turn.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: with knitting pin * pick up a loop
+in eye of first star, knit next stitch and repeat
+from * all along row, ending with knitting the final
+stitch. Be careful not to widen there. There are
+again as many stitches on needle as for the first
+row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 together and repeat
+from * to the end of the row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth row: plain knitting, knit each over as a
+stitch. Make another shaded stripe like first one
+omitting the two rows of all white knitting when
+beginning stripe, but making them at the end of
+stripe.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat the four rows for star stitch stripe and
+then the first and second rows. Make 2 rows of
+plain knitting all white, then make the shaded
+stripe. When the center of this stripe has been
+made, the scarf is half finished. Make second half
+to match first and bind off loosely.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Run a thread of wool across each end to draw
+work in shape before knotting on the fringe.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Cut the wool for fringe in 10 inch lengths and
+knot 4 strands for each tassel. Put a tassel in the
+end of each purl (2 rows) and arrange the colors
+to correspond to the shaded stripes.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c007'>LATTICE WORK SHOPPING BAG.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>7 balls, Bear Macramé, No. 100.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 Wood Lattice pin No. 3.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 Star crochet hook, No. 1.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 pair 4 inch embroidery hoops for handles.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>Chain 238: turn, slip ball and end of chain
+through one of the hoops, skip 12 stitches and
+make 1 single crochet stitch (1 s. c.) on the horizontal
+thread on the back of next chain, thus
+joining handle to work. Continue making 1 s. c.
+in the horizontal thread of each chain until 50
+chains remain unworked—176 s. c. in all. Turn.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: make 1 slip stitch, as follows on
+the back thread of first stitch; insert the hook
+and draw cord through stitch and loop on hook.
+Repeat in each of the next 137 stitches. Turn.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third row: 1 s. c. in the back thread of each
+of the 138 stitches of first row, being careful to
+work into the first and last stitches, which are
+inclined to draw down and be overlooked.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Lattice row (fourth row): draw up the loop on
+hook and slip it on the lattice pin, draw working
+thread in place. The pin is held under right arm
+firmly. Hold wrong side of work toward you
+and with crochet hook * pull a long loop of cord
+through the double thread of second stitch, slip
+it on pin, draw working thread in place and repeat
+from * in each stitch of third row. 138
+loops on pin. Slip loops from pin.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'><span class='pageno' id='Page_34'>34</span>Fifth row: turn * draw the fourth, fifth and
+sixth loops, in turn, through the first three loops
+and make 1 s. c. in each loop as it is drawn
+through; then 1 s. c. in each of the first, second
+and third loops, thus forming the lattice. Repeat
+from * all along the row. Chain 50, slip ball and
+end of chain through the second hoop.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Sixth row: skip 12 chains and make 1 s. c. in
+the horizontal thread at the back of each of the
+next 38 chains, then 1 slip stitch on the back
+thread of each stitch of fifth row. Chain 50, slip
+ball and end of chain through hoop found there
+and turn. Be careful not to twist chains.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_034.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c004'>Seventh row: skip 12 chains and make 1 s. c.
+in horizontal thread of each of the other chains;
+then 1 s. c. in the back thread of each stitch of
+<em>fifth</em> row, being careful to work into the first and
+last stitches to keep work even.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat the fourth, fifth, sixth and seventh rows
+eleven times. Place the two edges of bag part
+together and join them together taking up the
+back thread of each of the two first stitches and
+into them working 1 s. c. Continue in this way
+all across and fasten off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Go back to the 50 chains that were left unworked,
+draw the end through the hoop, join on
+a thread and skip 12 chains, then make 38 s. c.,
+as before, on ch. and join second side of bag as
+first side was joined. Cover each hoop with slip
+stitches.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c007'>CHILD’S JACKET WITH LATTICE WORK.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>2 skeins, Bear Brand Pompadour wool.</div>
+      <div class='line'>2 skeins, Bear Brand Zephyr Shetland.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 bone crochet hook, No. 0.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 amber knitting pin No. 13, which is about the thickness of an ordinary lead pencil.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>Using the Zephyr Shetland and crochet hook,
+chain 69 for the neck of jacket. Work 2 rows
+in crazy stitch, as follows:</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>First row: skip 2 chs., make 3 d. c. in the third
+ch., skip 2 chs., 1 s. c. in the next. * Ch. 3, 3 d. c.
+in same stitch with s. c., skip 2 chs., 1 s. c. in
+the next and repeat from *. 22 shells in the row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: turn, ch. 3, 3 d. c. in s. c. below,
+* 1 s. c. in top of ch. loop below, ch. 3, 3 d. c.
+in same ch. loop and repeat from * in each loop
+across row, ending with 1 s. c. in the final loop.
+Fasten off wool.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third row: turn and use the Pompadour wool.
+1 s. c. in s. c. below, ch. 3 (to count as 1 d. c.),
+4 d. c. in same s. c., * s. c. in ch. loop of next
+shell, 5 d. c. in s. c. below and repeat from *
+across the row, ending with 1 s. c. in final ch.
+loop. Fasten off Pompadour.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Throughout entire jacket the work is turned
+in commencing each row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth row (Lattice Work): use two threads
+of Zephyr Shetland and tie them to the Pompadour
+wool. * Draw a loop through the back
+thread of first d. c. stitch and ch. 1. Draw up
+the loop on hook and slip it on the knitting pin.
+Draw working thread in place. Repeat from *
+in each d. c. stitch of row omitting the s. c.
+stitches, 110 loops on pin for this row. Slip loops
+from pin.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fifth row: * pull second loop through first
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_35'>35</span>loop, pull working threads through it, ch. 1, slip
+loop on knitting pin, as before. Pull working
+threads through first loop (thus crossing the two
+loops), ch. 1, slip loop on pin and repeat from
+* all across row. Slip loops from pin.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Sixth row: working with a single thread of
+Zephyr Shetland cross loops, as before and in
+each loop make 1 s. c.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_035.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c004'>Seventh row: with Pompadour make 1 s. c. in
+first stitch * ch. 3, 3 d. c. in same stitch, skip 2,
+1 s. c. in next stitch and repeat from * all across.
+36 shells in row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Eighth row: use single thread of Zephyr Shetland
+and work like second row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Ninth row: like third row, having 4 d. c. in
+each shell instead of 5 d. c.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat the fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth
+and ninth rows. There will be 48 shells on the
+final row. This completes the yoke. The wrong
+side of shells worked with Pompadour is the
+right side of yoke.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>The body of jacket is made of a single thread
+of Zephyr Shetland and is worked in crazy stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>First row: 1 s. c. in first s. c., * ch. 3, 3 d. c.
+in same place. 1 s. c. in s. c. after shell and repeat
+from * eight times; chain 12 for under arm,
+skip nine shells on yoke for shoulder, make 12
+crazy shells across back, ch. 12 for second under
+arm, skip 9 shells and work 9 crazy shells to end
+of row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: work as for second row of yoke
+putting 4 extra shells on each under arm chain.
+Make 17 more rows in crazy stitch, then a row
+of Pompadour as ninth row of yoke was made.
+Follow with the three lattice work rows. Fasten
+off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Using the Pompadour make a scallop of crazy
+shells all around jacket and neck, working from
+wrong side.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Sleeve: begin on the under arm chain, make 3
+crazy shells there, 9 shells across the shoulder
+and 2 shells also on the under arm chain. On
+these 14 shells work back and forth for 15 more
+rows.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Seventeenth row: * make 1 shell as usual then
+a shell catching the s. c. through the ch. loops of
+the next two shells, thus narrowing and repeat
+from *. 9 shells in row. Finish the sleeve to
+match the border on lower part of jacket. Sew
+up and then put on the crazy shell scallop.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_36'>36</span>
+  <h2 class='c007'>AFGHAN WITH CROSS-STITCH EMBROIDERY.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>13 skeins white, Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>1 skein green No. 814, Germantown, 4-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>1 skein pink, Bear Brand Rococo Wool.</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>9 skeins “Glossilla Rope” No. 264, green.</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>2 skeins “Glossilla Rope” No. 200, pink.</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>1 pair amber or bone knitting pins No. 4 (14 inches long).</div>
+      <div class='line in1'>1 amber or bone crochet hook No. 4, same length.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>(<span class='sc'>Note</span>—<em>These directions are based on 16 skeins
+to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the
+box” wool is used, the number of skeins required
+will be proportionately less.</em>)</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_036.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c004'>The Cro-Knitting stripe is made first. Using the
+knitting pins and white wool, cast on 131 stitches
+for the length of the stripe. Knit 2 plain rows.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third row: with crochet hook pick up a loop in
+each stitch and work back as in plain afghan stitch
+(see directions for afghan stripe below).</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth row: again pick up a row of loops, taking
+them on the back perpendicular bar of the row
+below, instead of the front perpendicular bar. Knit
+back with knitting pin. Knit 2 <em>more</em> plain rows.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fancy row: with crochet hook pick up a loop in
+first stitch and slip off pin, wool over, pick up a
+loop about ½ inch high in second stitch, wool
+over, pick up another loop in same stitch, slip
+stitch off pin, wool over, skip the first loop above
+afghan stitch row (it will be seen that this row
+formed a row of twisted loops) and pick up a loop
+through the next 4 threads (2 loops) drawing loop
+up about 1 inch, * wool over, draw up another long
+loop through same space, wool over, through 8
+loops on hook, ch. 1, pick up a loop in next stitch,
+slip off pin, wool over, pick up a loop in next
+stitch, wool over, pick up another loop in same
+stitch, slip off, wool over, insert hook in last
+space where long loops were worked into, pick
+up a loop through the next 4 threads and repeat
+from * to the end of row, ending by picking up a
+loop in last stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Knit 3 plain rows.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Next row: repeat fancy row, taking up the long
+loop just above the clusters made before.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_37'>37</span>
+<img src='images/i_037.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic001'>
+<p><span class='sc'>Detail of Cross-Stitch Embroidery</span><br>  <br>  × <em>Green Glossilla</em>&#8196; &#8196; &#8196; <em>Green Germantown</em>&#8196; &#8196; &#8196; &#160;<em>Pink Rococo</em>&#8196; &#8196; &#8196; ◈ <em>Pink Glossilla</em></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c004'><span class='pageno' id='Page_38'>38</span>K. 4 rows, bind off on wrong side.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Make another Cro-Knitting stripe in same way.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Afghan Stitch Stripe: ch. 37, pick up a loop
+through the horizontal bar in the back of second
+and all succeeding chain stitches retaining loops
+on hook. There will be 37 loops on hook. This is
+half of the afghan row. Work back, as follows:
+wool over and through end loop * wool over and
+through 2 stitches and repeat from * to the end.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: the stitch that remains on hook is
+the first stitch of this row. Pick up a loop through
+the second and succeeding perpendicular bars retaining
+loops on hook. The end stitch is picked
+up through the last bar and the thread back of it.
+This forms a chain edge which corresponds to the
+first edge. Work back as directed for first row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat the second row until the stripe is the
+same length as the Cro-Knitting stripe. It should
+be 7 inches wide. On each of the next six rows,
+narrow, as follows: pick up first loop, as usual,
+then draw it through the loop on hook, pick up
+succeeding loops and keep them on hook, pick up
+a loop through the last two bars together. Final
+row: pick up loop as usual, then draw wool through
+loop on hook.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Make two more stripes in same manner and
+embroider stripes, as illustrated.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Sew stripes together.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Around the afghan make cord edge, as follows:
+fasten two threads of white wool at corner, fasten
+two more threads into third stitch; chain 5 with
+first 2 threads, slip stitch into fifth stitch of edge.
+Withdraw hook, holding second working thread
+over chain just made, chain 5, catch into seventh
+stitch. Continue all around afghan. It is necessary
+to twist the working thread as each loop is
+being made.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Tassels are hung in crocheted loops, as illustrated.
+These are made while working edge, by
+an extra loop of 10 chain in their respective places.
+Tassels: cut 40 strands each 10 inches long, pull
+through loops and tie double. Put network of buttonhole
+stitch over head of each tassel with green
+Glossilla.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c007'>ROSE CAP.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>1 skein, Bear Brand Pompadour Wool.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 skein, Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 bone crochet hook, No. 0.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 amber knitting pin No. 13, which is about the thickness of an ordinary lead pencil.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_038.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>Using the Pompadour and crochet hook, chain
+3 and join in a ring. Ch. 3, * wool over and pick
+up a loop in the ring, wool over and through all
+3 loops on hook, thus forming 1 short double
+crochet stitch (1 s. d. c.), ch. 1 and repeat from
+* 4 times; join to second ch. of the ch. 3 at beginning
+of round, with a slip stitch thus forming
+six spaces.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third round: 1 s. c., 3 d. c., 1 s. c. all in the
+first space, repeat in each space of round, ch. 2,
+turn work and catch around first spoke of second
+round with a slip stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'><span class='pageno' id='Page_39'>39</span>Fourth round: ch. 4, catch around next spoke
+and repeat all around; join and turn.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fifth round: 1 s. c., 6 d. c., 1 s. c. in first space
+and repeat all around.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Sixth round: change to the Saxony, but do not
+fasten off Pompadour wool. * 1 d. c. on the left
+side of s. c. of preceding round, 1 s. d. c. in each
+of the next six stitches drawing them up so
+that the top of the work is evenly high, 1 d. c.
+on the right side of next s. c. and repeat from *
+all around. 48 stitches in round. Join.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Seventh round: draw Pompadour wool through
+from the back and pick up a loop in the front
+thread of first stitch, then draw this same loop
+through the loop on hook, thus forming one slip
+stitch. Make 1 slip stitch in front thread of each
+stitch of previous round. Drop Pompadour.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Eighth round: with Saxony chain 2, to count
+as 1 s. d. c.; then make 1 s. d. c. in the back
+thread of each stitch of preceding round, excepting
+that in the center stitch of each shell there
+are to be 2 s. d. c. 56 s. d. c. in round. Join.
+Repeat the seventh round.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Tenth round: * 1 s. d. c. in back thread of
+each of the first three stitches, 2 s. d. c. in next
+and repeat from * all around. Join.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Continue in this way alternating the Pompadour
+and Saxony rounds, on each of the Saxony
+rounds having two more stitches between the increasings
+until there are nine stitches between.
+Then make one Saxony round without any increasing.
+Repeat Pompadour round. On the
+next Saxony row the front of cap is commenced.
+Make 1 s. d. c. in each of the first 88 stitches and
+fasten off Saxony; the remaining stitches are left
+for the neck portion. Repeat the Pompadour
+row once more then commence the lattice pattern.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>First pattern row: draw up a long loop of
+Pompadour and slip it on the knitting pin, draw
+working thread in place. The pin is held under
+right arm firmly. Hold wrong side of work toward
+you and with crochet hook * pull a long
+loop of Pompadour through the double threads
+of second stitch, slip it on pin and draw working
+thread in place. Repeat from * in each stitch of
+row. 88 loops on pin. Slip loops from pin.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: turn, * draw the second loop
+through the first loop and in it make 1 s. c., then
+make 1 s. c. in first loop, thus forming the lattice.
+Repeat from * all along the row. Fasten
+off Pompadour.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third row: go back to other end, make a loop
+of Saxony on hook, then make 88 s. d. c. along
+the row and fasten off. Take up both threads
+of the previous row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth row: go back, as before and make 1
+slip stitch in the front thread of each stitch
+of third row. Use Pompadour.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat these four rows, three times; on the
+last repetition of the third row make 36 s. d. c.,
+skip one stitch, 4 s. d. c., skip 1, 4 s. d. c., skip
+1, 4 s. d. c., skip 1, 36 s. d. c., thus drawing in
+cap a little around the face. Do not fasten off
+but turn and work across neck portion of cap.
+Put two more stitches in corner, 2 stitches in end
+of lattice row and 1 stitch in each of the other
+rows across front, across stitches left from crown
+* make 1 stitch through the back threads of two
+stitches taken together and repeat from * all
+across crown; then make second front like first
+and fasten off. Make fourth row of slip stitches,
+working across neck also.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Around entire cap, using the Pompadour wool,
+make a scallop as follows: 1 s. c. in first stitch,
+chain 3, 3 d. c. in same stitch, skip 3 stitches and
+repeat all around. At the corners skip 2 stitches
+<em>only</em> to prevent capping.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Rose ornament: make five rounds as directed
+for beginning of cap.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Sixth round: ch. 2, turn and catch around first
+spoke, ch. 6 and catch around next spoke. Repeat
+all around; join and turn.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Seventh round: 1 s. c., 8 d. c., 1 s. c. in first
+space and repeat all around. Fasten off. Make
+another ornament in same manner. Trim with
+three rounds of narrow ribbon loops, one loop
+back of each rose petal. Place tiny loop in center
+of each rose and center of crown.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Line with silk and use ribbon ties.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_40'>40</span>
+<img src='images/i_040.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic001'>
+<p>Child’s Angora Set<br>  <br>  Cap, Muff and Stole</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_41'>41</span>
+  <h2 class='c007'>CHILD’S ANGORA SET.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>(Cap, Muff and Stole.)</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+  <div class='nf-center'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>7 (½ oz.) balls, Three Rabbit Angora wool, or 28 small balls.</div>
+      <div class='line'>2 skeins, Bear Brand Eiderdown.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 ball “Glossilla Crochet.”</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 5.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 amber crochet hook, No. 9.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>CAP. Using the Angora cast on 7 stitches and
+knit one row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: k. 1, p. 1 in each stitch, 14 stitches,
+in all. Knit loosely.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third and every alternate row, knit plain.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth row: * k. 1, p. 1 in first stitch, k. 1 and
+repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Sixth row: * k. 1, p. 1 in first stitch, k. 2 and
+repeat to end of row. 28 stitches on pin.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Eighth row: increase in the usual way but
+have 3 stitches between the increasings.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Continue to increase in this way on every other
+row, always having one more plain stitch between
+the increasings until there are 16 rows, in all.
+63 stitches on pin.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Seventeenth row: bind off 5 stitches, knit 55,
+bind off the 54th stitch over the 55th then knit
+and bind off the remaining stitches, thus binding
+off 5 stitches on each end. Fasten off Angora.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Make the next 4 rows with Glossilla.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>First row: knit plain.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: k. 1, then k. 2 in each stitch all
+across the row, ending with k. 1 in the final
+stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third row: knit plain.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth row: k. 1, then k. 2 together all across
+the row, ending with k. 1 in the final stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>* Using the Angora knit six rows; then 4 rows
+of Glossilla, in pattern, as before. Repeat from *
+then knit 6 rows of Angora. Run the stitches on
+to a thread and sew up the crown seam of cap.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Pick up all the stitches across the neck of cap
+and on them knit 8 rows, with Angora, followed
+by 7 rows, in pattern, with Glossilla, then bind off
+on the eighth row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Pick up the stitches along one end of the neck
+rows, take the stitches from the thread on to the
+pin again, then pick up the stitches along the
+other end of neck rows. Knit 10 rows, with Angora,
+then finish with the eight rows of Glossilla
+as was done around the neck.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fold back the front for a turn over and trim
+with ribbons, as illustrated.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>MUFF. Using the Angora cast on 45 stitches
+and knit 12 rows; then * with Glossilla, knit 4
+rows in pattern as directed for cap, followed by
+12 rows of Angora. Repeat from * three times,
+binding off on the last Angora row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Lay the side edges of the work together for the
+top of the muff. Pick up 36 stitches across the
+top, with Angora, taking them through both sides
+at once. Knit 5 rows, then with Glossilla, knit 7
+rows in pattern and bind off on the eighth row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Using the Eiderdown and crochet hook, make
+the lining, as follows: make a chain long enough
+to reach around the end and on it work in single
+crochet stitches, <em>very loosely</em> until the lining is the
+same size as the outside of muff. Sew up. Slip
+inside and sew the two pieces together around the
+ends using Angora wool.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Trim with ribbon as illustrated.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>STOLE. Using the Angora, cast on 2 stitches
+and knit them.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: knit two stitches in each stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third row: k. 2 in first stitch, k. 1 in each of
+the remaining stitches. Repeat the third row
+until there are 20 stitches on the pin. * Change
+to Glossilla and knit 4 rows in pattern, as directed
+for cap; then 12 rows with Angora. Repeat from
+*; then make 4 rows with Glossilla. On the first
+row of the next Angora stripe knit together the
+two first and two last stitches, then finish the
+12 rows as usual. Follow with Glossilla rows.
+Decrease in same manner on each of the next
+two Angora stripes. There will be 14 stitches on
+pin. On these 14 stitches make 3 more stripes
+of the Angora with Glossilla stripes between;
+then the increasings must begin to make second
+end match the first. On this end the increasing
+is done on the <em>first</em> row of each of the <em>Glossilla</em>
+stripes until there are again 20 stitches on the
+pin. Finish the end by narrowing off to a point.
+Using the Angora <em>only</em> make another piece in
+plain knitting exactly same size and shape for
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_42'>42</span>lining. Overhand the two pieces together using
+a thread of Angora.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Draw up one edge of stole in the middle part of
+it enough to make it fit well around the neck.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Finish each end with a tail made, as follows:
+cast on 2 stitches, with Angora; increase one
+stitch when beginning each row until there are 18
+stitches on the pin. Knit 11 rows of 18 stitches
+each and bind off. Place a little soft cotton inside
+and sew up.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Trim with ribbon and place ribbon ties on
+stole.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c007'>STAR STITCH STOCKINGS.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>1 skein white, Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 skein contrasting color Saxony, 3-fold, or</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 skein Bear Brand Pompadour wool.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 pair Bear Brand nickeled knitting pins, No. 12.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 bone crochet hook, No. 0.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_042.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>Using the white wool cast on 48 stitches and
+knit one row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: k. 1, increase (by picking up the
+wool between 2 stitches and knitting it), k. 22, increase,
+k. 2, increase, k. 22, increase, k. 1.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Knit every other row plain.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth row: k. 2, increase, k. 22, increase, k. 1,
+increase, k. 2 for center and reverse directions.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Sixth row: knit 1, increase, k. 27, increase, k. 2,
+and reverse.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Eighth row: k. 2, increase, k. 27, increase, k. 1,
+increase, k. 2 and reverse.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>On the ninth row increase one stitch when beginning
+row and then knit plain.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Tenth and eleventh rows: use crochet hook and
+contrasting wool and work as directed for star
+stitch. (See page <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>). The contrasting wool is
+used for the star stitch only.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Knit four rows then repeat the star stitch rows.
+On the eighteenth row knit the two first stitches
+together, then plain to the end of row. Knit one
+plain row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Twentieth row: k. 25, k. 2 together nine times,
+k. 25.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>On the next row the instep tab is commenced.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Twenty-first row: k. 26, k. 2 tog., k. 4, k. 2 tog.,
+turn.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Twenty-second row: slip 1, k. 5, k. 2 tog., turn.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Twenty-third row: slip 1, k. 6, k. 2 tog., turn.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat the 23d row until 40 stitches, in all, remain
+on the needles, then turn and knit to the end
+of needle and make an extra stitch there for the
+star stitch row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>* Make 2 star stitch rows, then knit 3 plain rows,
+follow by one plain row knitting 2 stitches in first
+and last stitches of row. Repeat from * until
+there are six star stitch stripes, then commence the
+knee portion. Knit one plain row then * turn and
+knit until two stitches remain unworked. Repeat from
+* holding the unworked stitches on pin until 3
+stitches remain, turn and knit these stitches and
+the stitches held on the pin on that side. Turn
+and knit back on row and then on the stitches held
+on other side. Knit 10 plain rows. The ribbon
+holes are next to be made. Knit 1, * over, k. 2
+tog. and repeat from * ending row with k. 1. Knit
+10 more plain rows, 2 star stitch rows, 4 plain
+rows, 2 star stitch rows, 6 plain rows and bind off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Sew up leg and foot seams and trim with ribbon.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_43'>43</span>
+  <h2 class='c007'>LATTICE WORK AFGHAN.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>4 skeins, Bear Brand Eidersil.</div>
+      <div class='line'>9 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 8-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 Lattice pin, No. 4.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 amber crochet hook, No. 9.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>(<span class='sc'>Note</span>—<em>These directions are based on 16 skeins
+to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the
+box” wool is used, the number of skeins required
+will be proportionately less.</em>)</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Using the Germantown and crochet hook chain
+101 loosely; turn, skip 1 chain and make 1 single
+crochet stitch (1 s. c.), in each chain to the end.
+The work should measure thirty inches, for the
+length of afghan. If a longer article is desired
+the row should contain a multiple of 4 stitches.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_043.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: turn and make 1 slip stitch, as follows,
+on the back thread of each stitch of preceding
+row: insert the hook and draw wool through
+stitch and the loop on hook.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third row: turn, 1 s. c. in the back thread of
+each of the s. c. stitches of first row, being careful
+to work into first stitch which is inclined to draw
+down and be overlooked. Through the last stitch
+draw the Eidersil and fasten off Germantown.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Broad Lattice row: draw up a long loop of
+Eidersil and slip it on the pin, then wrap the same
+loop a second time around pin, draw working
+thread in place. The pin is held under right arm
+firmly. Hold wrong side of work toward you and
+with crochet hook * pull a long loop of wool
+through the double threads of second stitch, slip
+it on pin and wrap the second time, as before, draw
+working thread in place and repeat from * in each
+stitch of row. 100 loops (200 wraps) on pin. Join
+the Germantown and fasten off Eidersil. Slip
+loops from pin. There will be 100 long loops in
+which to work the fifth row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fifth row: turn, * draw the third loop through
+the two first loops and in it make 1 s. c., draw
+fourth loop through and in it make 1 s. c., then
+make 1 s. c. in each of the first and second loops,
+thus forming the lattice. Repeat from * all along
+row. Turn. Repeat the second and third rows,
+for the latter taking up the back thread of stitches
+of fifth row. Draw Eidersil through and fasten
+off Germantown.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Eighth row: like fourth excepting that loops
+are slipped on pin and are not wrapped the second
+time. 100 loops.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Ninth row: turn, * draw second loop through
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_44'>44</span>first and in it make 1 s. c. then make 1 s. c. in
+first loop and repeat from * all across row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat the eighth and ninth rows twice more.
+These last 12 rows constitute one pattern.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat from the beginning of the second row
+until there are six broad lattice rows: then repeat
+second, third and <em>again</em> the second row and fasten
+off. The afghan should now be 25 inches wide.
+The sides have no finish.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Across each end work, as follows: with Germantown
+make * 3 s. c. in the heavy band, ch. 3,
+3 s. c. in next band—ch. 2, 1 s. c. in next band
+and repeat from—, ch. 2 and repeat from * all
+along. Turn. Repeat second, third and again
+second rows as given for afghan.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fifth border row: with Germantown make 1 s. c.
+in end stitch, * skip 4, 5 d. c. in next, skip 4, 1
+s. c. and repeat from * making 9 scallops across
+end.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Sixth row: with Eidersil, * 1 s. c. in first s. c.,
+ch. 2, 1 d. c. around the post of first d. c. of
+scallop, 1 s. c. in second d. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c. around
+center d. c., 1 s. c. in fourth d. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c.
+around last d. c. and repeat from * all across.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c007'>DUTCH HOOD IN CRO-KNITTING.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>3 skeins Bear Brand Rococo yarn, or 2 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 pair amber knitting pins No. 5 (10 inches long)</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 amber crochet hook No. 5, same length.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>(<span class='sc'>Note</span>—<em>These directions are based on 16 skeins
+to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the
+box” wool is used, the number of skeins required
+will be proportionately less.</em>)</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Begin at the center of the crown by casting on
+7 stitches.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>First row: knit plain.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: knit 1, but do not slip it from the
+needle, knit a second stitch on the back thread of
+same stitch, after which slip stitch from needle
+thus knitting 2 stitches in 1 stitch. Do this on
+each stitch—14 stitches on pin.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third row: knit plain.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth row: k. 2 in first stitch, k. 1 and repeat
+alternately throughout the row—21 stitches on
+pin.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fifth row: knit plain.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Sixth row: k. 2 in first stitch, k. 2 and repeat
+throughout the row—28 stitches on pin.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Seventh row: knit plain.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Eighth row: increase in the usual way, but have
+3 stitches between the increasings—35 stitches on
+the pin.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Increase in this way on every second row until
+there are 10 stitches between the increasings, when
+there will be 84 stitches on the pin. Knit back.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_044.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c004'>First row of front: knit and bind 5, then knit to
+other end. Repeat first row. 74 stitches will remain.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third row: with crochet hook, wool over and
+pick up a loop in first stitch, wool over and
+through 2, slip stitch from knitting pin, thus making
+1 double in the first stitch. * Wool over and
+take up a loop through the next 2 stitches together,
+wool over and through 2, wool over and make
+another double taking it through the back of the
+<em>same</em> 2 stitches, then slip these stitches from pin.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_45'>45</span>Repeat from * all across row, ending with 1 double
+in last stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth row: with knitting pin, knit 1, * over,
+knit 2 together and repeat from *: knit last stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fifth row: knit 1, * knit 1, knit the back of next
+stitch and repeat from *, knit 1. Make three rows
+of plain garter stitch. On these rows, for the
+first stitch, insert the pin, as if to purl, slip stitch
+and throw wool around the point of pin, then knit
+as usual.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>These last six rows constitute one pattern.
+Make 3 <em>more</em> patterns and fasten off wool carefully.
+Run the stitches on to a thread and sew up crown.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Pick up 50 stitches across the neck of the hood—19
+across each front—12 across crown. Knit one
+row, as follows: k. 19, k. 2 together six times, k. 19.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 tog. and repeat
+from * ending with k. 1.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth row: plain knitting, taking the over
+thread as one stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Make 8 more rows of garter stitch, slipping first
+stitch as directed and bind off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Pick up 6 stitches along first end of the neck
+rows, take the stitches from the thread on to the
+pin again and pick up 6 stitches along the other
+end of the neck rows.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>First row: slip 1, k. 29, * k. 2 tog., k. 4 and repeat
+from * until 30 stitches remain, knit 30.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Make eleven rows of garter stitch, then repeat
+the first four rows of the Cro-Knitting pattern.
+Make 5 rows of k. 2., p. 2 ribbing and bind off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fold back the front for a turn over and trim
+hood with ribbons.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c007'>DAISY AFGHAN.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>1 box Cream White Bear Brand Germantown, 8-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 box Pink or Blue Germantown, 8-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line'>2 skeins White Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line'>2 skeins 4-fold Germantown in same color as the 8-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line'>3 skeins Glossilla Rope, Yellow, No. 515.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 amber crochet hook, No. 5, 10 inches long.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>(<span class='sc'>Note</span>—<em>These directions are based on 16 skeins
+to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the
+box” wool is used, the number of skeins required
+will be proportionately less.</em>)</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Each block is made separately and should be
+about 6 inches square. Using the white 8-fold
+Germantown, chain 30 and make two rows in
+plain afghan stitch. (See Afghan Stitch Stripe,
+page <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.)</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third row pick up the loops and work back on
+them, as usual, for 15 loops, then chain 5 and
+draw through loop (to form a popcorn) and
+work off the remaining 14 loops. These chain
+stitches should be pulled to the front of work.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth and every alternate row is plain afghan
+stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fifth row: pick up all loops, then work off 11
+loops, 1 popcorn, 1 loop plain, 1 popcorn, 4 plain
+loops, 1 popcorn, 1 plain loop, 1 popcorn, 10
+plain loops. This makes two popcorns on each
+side of the four center loops with 1 plain loop
+between the two popcorns on each side. This
+one loop is always worked between the popcorns
+and no further mention will be made of it.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_045.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c004'>Seventh row: 2 popcorns on each side of the
+10 center loops.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Ninth row: 2 popcorns on each side of the 16
+center loops.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Eleventh row: 2 popcorns on each side of the
+20 center loops. This is the middle row of the
+block.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Hereafter the number of loops in the center of
+row is decreased as they were increased, always
+having one plain afghan stitch row between the
+fancy rows until the row having one popcorn in
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_46'>46</span>the center has been made. Make 2 plain rows to
+match beginning of block, then work off as follows:
+pick up first perpendicular thread, as usual,
+drawing the wool also through the loop on hook.
+Continue to work in this way in each perpendicular
+thread to the end of the row and fasten off.
+Make 15 white blocks, in all, and 15 blocks of the
+selected color. Join the blocks with single crochet
+stitches, working on the wrong side. Alternate
+colors in both width and length, the afghan
+being six blocks long and five blocks wide.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>BORDER: using the cream white wool, make
+a round of double crochet stitches, putting 1 d. c.
+in each stitch, with extra stitches at the corners
+to prevent capping. This round should be perfectly
+flat. Join at the end of each round.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second round: using the colored wool, make
+* 2 d. c. in first stitch, ch. 1, 2 <em>more</em> d. c. in the
+same stitch, ch. 1, skip 2 stitches of previous
+round and repeat from * if a ruffled border, as
+illustrated, is desired. If less fullness is wanted,
+skip 4 stitches instead of 2. Skip fewer stitches
+at the corners.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third round: using white wool, make * 4 d. c.
+in the center of first shell, 1 d. c. between the
+shells and repeat from * all around.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth round: using the color, make * 1 slip
+stitch, as follows: draw wool through stitch of
+previous round and <em>also</em> through loop on hook.
+Chain 3 and repeat from * in each stitch of third
+round. Fasten off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>The daisies are embroidered in the loop stitch
+with 4-fold wool, a colored one in the center of
+each white block and a white one in each colored
+block. All the centers are worked in French
+knots with the yellow Glossilla.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c007'>AFGHAN WITH PERSIAN LAMB STRIPES</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>¾ box Bear Brand Germantown, 8-fold.</div>
+      <div class='line'>5 skeins, Bear Brand Persian Lamb Wool.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 amber crochet hook, No. 9.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>Using the Germantown, chain 100 and work in
+double star stitch, as follows: skip chain next to
+hook and take up a loop through each of the next
+5 chains, (6 loops on hook). Have the first 3
+loops quite short, the other 3 loops long. Wool
+over hook and through all 6 loops, ch. 1 snugly.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second star: take up a loop through eye of
+first star (the little hole formed by the stitch
+just made), another through the back twist of
+last loop of first star, making 3 loops on hook.
+These are held quite short; 3 more loops, pulled
+long, are taken up, the first in the same stitch
+with last loop of first star and 1 loop each in the
+next 2 chs. There are again 6 loops upon the
+hook. Finish as with first star. Repeat second
+star until the length of chs. has been used up,
+then fasten off. The row should contain 48 stars
+and should measure thirty inches in length.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_046.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: fasten wool at the very beginning
+of top of first row, ch. 3, take up a loop each in
+second and third chs. from hook, a fourth loop in
+back of first loop in star below, a loop in eye of
+star below and a sixth loop in back of first loop
+of second star below. Finish as usual. Second
+star, take up second and third loops as in stars
+on the first row and fourth, fifth and sixth loops
+as in star just made, finishing as usual. Work
+across as with second star and again finish off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>The last loop of final star is taken in back loop
+of final star of first row. Be sure there are as
+many stars as in first row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Repeat the second row twice or until the stripe
+measures three and one-half inches in depth.
+Draw Persian Lamb through the very beginning
+of last row and make 1 single crochet stitch
+there. Continue making 1 s. c. in each stitch to
+end of row, chain 1 and turn. Work 4 <em>more</em> rows
+in Persian Lamb, putting 1 s. c. in each stitch of
+preceding row and taking up both threads of
+stitch. The Persian Lamb stripe should be two
+inches deep.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Change to Germantown and make stripe, as
+before. Continue alternating the Persian Lamb
+and Germantown stripes until there are 5 Germantown
+stripes, in all.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Border: using the Persian Lamb, work all
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_47'>47</span>around the afghan in single crochet, widening at
+corners by putting 3 s. c. in each corner on first
+round; putting 2 s. c. in each corner on second
+round. Alternate first and second rounds for the
+depth desired.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c007'>INFANT’S JACKET IN SQUARES.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+    <div>Materials Required:</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>2 skeins, Bear Brand Zephyr Shetland.</div>
+      <div class='line'>2 skeins, Bear Brand Pompadour.</div>
+      <div class='line'>1 bone crochet hook, No. 1.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c003'>The entire jacket is made in the ordinary crocheting.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_047.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c004'>The work is begun at the neck with the Pompadour
+wool. Chain 147, turn, skip 1 ch., 1 single
+crochet stitch (1 s. c.) in the next, * ch. 4,
+skip 4 chs., 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from *
+to the end of the row. Fasten off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second row: go back to the beginning of first
+row and using the Zephyr Shetland, make 4
+double crochet stitches (4 d. c.) in each chain
+loop across row drawing up the stitches so they
+are three-eighths of an inch high. Fasten off at
+the end of each row and begin next row at the
+other end.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third row: use Pompadour and make 1 s.c. in
+the first stitch * ch. 4, 1 s. c. in the space between
+clusters and repeat from * all across, ending
+with 1 s. c. in the final stitch of previous row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Every other row is made like the third row and
+no further mention will be made of it.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth row: like second row until 6 clusters
+have been made. Make 3 d. c. in the next s. c.
+(thus increasing), make 8 clusters, increase as
+before, 9 clusters, increase, 6 clusters to end.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Sixth row: use Zephyr Shetland. Make 6 clusters,
+increase, 1 cluster, increase again (thus
+commencing first shoulder), 18 clusters across
+back, increase, 1 cluster, increase, 6 clusters.
+Every other row is made of the Zephyr Shetland.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Eighth row: 6 clusters, increase, 3 clusters, increase,
+9 clusters, increase, 9 clusters, increase,
+3 clusters, increase, 6 clusters.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Tenth row: 6 clusters, increase, 5 clusters, increase,
+19 clusters, increase, 5 clusters, increase,
+6 clusters.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Twelfth row: 6 clusters, increase, 7 clusters,
+increase, 10 clusters, increase, 9 clusters, increase,
+7 clusters, increase, 6 clusters.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourteenth row: 6 clusters then fasten off.
+This is the first short row of left front. On it
+work the pattern rows 5 times, 6 rows in all. On
+the second and every d. c. row increase in the
+s. c. preceding the final cluster to shape the arm
+hole.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>The short rows for the back are next to be
+made.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Skip to the other side of second increasing of
+shoulder, work to first increasing on second
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_48'>48</span>shoulder and fasten off. Work 6 rows in all
+across the back, increasing in the center of every
+second row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>The right front is made like the left, increasing
+at the beginning of rows instead of at the end.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>First long row below the arms, work with
+Pompadour wool, as usual, across the first front,
+ch. 4, work across back, ch. 4 and across second
+front. On this row repeat the pattern rows until
+there are 8 cluster rows, on these cluster rows
+increasing in the center of back on every other
+cluster row. The last row will be a Pompadour
+row. Do not fasten off, turn, work up the front
+around neck and down second front. Fasten off.
+With the Zephyr Shetland make 4 single crochet
+stitches in each loop around the bottom and
+down the fronts.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Begin at the neck of left front and with the
+Pompadour make * 1 d. c. in the second s. c.
+below, then 1 d. c. in the first s. c., crossing it
+over first d. c. Repeat from * around the three
+sides of jacket. In the 4 stitches of each corner
+work the 2 crossed d. c. in one stitch, to keep
+the corners full enough for the succeeding rows.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second border row: with Zephyr Shetland
+make 1 d. c. in each stitch of previous row, taking
+up both threads of stitch.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Third row: use Pompadour and make 1 s. c.
+in each stitch, taking up both threads.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Fourth row: like second. Turn and make 1
+s. c. in first stitch, * ch. 3, 4 d. c. in same stitch,
+skip 3 stitches along edge, 1 s. c. in the next and
+repeat from * around jacket and neck. Join and
+fasten off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Sixth row: use Pompadour and work on the
+right side. Make 1 s. c. in the center skipped
+stitch on fourth row, * ch. 3, 1 s. c. in top of ch.
+loop on fifth row, ch. 3, 1 s. c., ch. 3, 1 s. c.,
+ch. 3, 1 s. c., all in the same loop, ch. 3, 1 s. c.
+in center of next 3 skipped stitches on fourth
+row, and repeat from *. Join and fasten off.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Sleeve. Make a foundation row of chains and
+s. c. in Pompadour, beginning at one end of the
+yoke and working down and around the arm
+hole to the opposite point of the yoke. This row
+when completed, corresponds to the third row.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Second sleeve row: work clusters in Zephyr
+Shetland. Continue in pattern without increase,
+until there are 13 cluster rows, in all. Next
+cluster row make 3 d. c. in each cluster instead
+of 4 d. c. On the next Pompadour row, ch. 3
+instead of 4. Make a cluster row having 2 d. c.
+in each cluster, followed by a Pompadour row
+having 2 chs. to each loop. The sleeve should
+be the proper size for the wrist. Sew up. Finish
+with a border like that around the body of
+jacket and fasten off. Make second sleeve like
+first.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Through the open neck row run a cord chained
+of Zephyr Shetland and finished with tassels of
+the same.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c008'>KEEPING THE ENDS EVEN.</h3>
+
+<p class='c009'>Few crocheters realize the importance of exactly
+following directions for the ends of rows.
+Skipping an occasional stitch seems a small matter
+to many, when that stitch comes at the end
+of the row and an occasional added stitch is decreed
+to be equally trivial. Yet frequently they
+spoil the work. Many a woman while making
+an afghan, after hours have been spent, finds
+that her work is all crooked, going off at an
+unexpected angle, although she may have followed
+directions exactly, excepting as to the
+ends. If you want straight edges, learn how the
+ends must be worked and make each row exactly
+as it should be.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c008'>TO STRAIGHTEN KNITTED OR CROCHETED FLAT WORK.</h3>
+
+<p class='c009'>Wring out white cotton cloth in cold water.
+Spread cloth on table, then place article on cloth
+with the right side up, and pin in the desired
+shape. Cover with a clean, <em>dry</em> cloth and let it
+remain until entirely dry.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c008'>TO WASH WOOLEN ARTICLES.</h3>
+
+<p class='c009'>Have lukewarm water in which some pure
+white soap has been dissolved. Soak the garment
+ten minutes, then squeeze out (not wring), removing
+the stains by squeezing between the hands.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Rinse through two waters, each of the same
+temperature as the water in which garment was
+soaked.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Most important is the drying process. If possible,
+lay the garment flat on a sheet where it will
+dry quickly. If a sweater or large garment is to
+be dried, it should first be dropped in the bottom
+of a pillow slip or cheese-cloth bag, the slip
+hung up by the open end and the garment be allowed
+to drip until nearly dry. Then spread on a
+sheet to dry, drawing the garment into shape
+from time to time and turning frequently. If it
+<em>must</em> be hung up, hang evenly.</p>
+
+<div class='pbb'>
+ <hr class='pb c010'>
+</div>
+<div class='chapter ph1'>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c001'>
+    <div>BEAR BRAND MANUAL OF HANDIWORK</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div  class='figright id003'>
+<img src='images/i_049.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+<p class='drop-capa0_0_6 c002'>The recognized authority on the arts of
+knitting and crocheting has nearly two
+hundred pages, full of illustrated instructions.
+It is a fund of knowledge, as well
+as pleasure, for beginners and experts.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>It describes the famous <span class='sc'>Bear Brand Yarns</span>
+and tells how to use them for making many
+beautiful garments, giving explicit directions
+from the first stitch to the last one.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>If you have enjoyed the work as planned in
+this Cro-Knitting book you should certainly
+have the MANUAL which has been compiled
+with equal care. If you are not interested
+now, you will doubtless become so upon seeing
+the many beautiful pictures it contains of
+garments photographed on living models.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>The “Boy’s Military Outfit” illustrated is
+one of the 250 new designs described in the
+latest edition.</p>
+
+<p class='c004'>Ask your dealer for the Bear Brand Manual
+or send 25 cents in stamps or coin to</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Bear Brand Yarn Manufacturers</span></div>
+      <div class='line'>107–113 GRAND STREET      <span class='fss'>DEPT. X</span>      NEW YORK CITY</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/back_cover_retouched.jpg' alt='[Back cover]' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<div class='pbb'>
+ <hr class='pb c001'>
+</div>
+<div class='tnotes x-ebookmaker'>
+
+<div class='chapter ph2'>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c001'>
+    <div>TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+ <ul class='ul_1 c006'>
+    <li>Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained.
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+
+</div>
+
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76785 ***</div>
+  </body>
+  <!-- created with ppgen.py 3.57e (with regex) on 2025-07-29 21:18:41 GMT -->
+</html>
+
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diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt
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@@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
diff --git a/README.md b/README.md
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+++ b/README.md
@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for eBook #76785
+(https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/76785)