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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76274 ***
+
+
+
+
+
+                             THE WILDS OF
+                               PATAGONIA
+
+
+
+
+                   [Illustration: CARL SKOTTSBERG.]
+
+
+
+
+
+                             THE WILDS OF
+                               PATAGONIA
+
+                      A NARRATIVE OF THE SWEDISH
+                        EXPEDITION TO PATAGONIA
+                       TIERRA DEL FUEGO AND THE
+                     FALKLAND ISLANDS IN 1907-1909
+
+                                  BY
+
+                     CARL SKOTTSBERG, D.SC., ETC.
+
+                                LONDON
+                             EDWARD ARNOLD
+
+                                 1911
+
+                         _All rights reserved_
+
+
+
+
+                                  TO
+
+                       SIR JOSEPH DALTON HOOKER
+           O.M., G.C.S.I., C.B., D.C.L., LL.D., F.R.S., ETC.
+                          THE PIONEER AND THE
+                                MASTER
+                 THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED IN PROFOUND
+                              ADMIRATION
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+When, in January 1904, I had returned from taking part in the
+Swedish Antarctic Expedition, and had begun to work out my notes and
+collections, it happened to me, as it has happened to so many others
+before, that every now and then questions cropped up which, for want of
+material, had to be left unanswered. Gradually also quite new problems
+presented themselves, and the thought of returning once more to some
+of the countries I had visited soon arose. One of my companions from
+the _Antarctic_, Dr. J. G. Andersson, had just the same experience, but
+was kept in Sweden by his work as director of the Geological Survey.
+Without knowing of my scheme, he had got two of our common friends,
+T. Halle and P. Quensel, interested in our old field of operations in
+South America, and one day, as we happened to be speaking of it, we
+considered the possibility of planning a modest expedition, principally
+for geological and botanical purposes. With a geological survey were
+connected a number of geographical problems, such as the changes of the
+land after the Ice Age; the formation and true nature of the Patagonian
+Channels; the origin of the transverse Andine Valleys; the influence
+of geology and plant-geography on the landscape, &c. The algological
+investigations would also lead to the formation of zoological
+collections, and besides, we thought that in the Patagonian Channels we
+should have opportunities of making ethnographic studies.
+
+In order to discuss our plans I arranged with Quensel and Halle that
+they should meet me in Stockholm at the Geological Survey office, and
+one evening was born the enterprise, afterwards called the “Swedish
+Magellanic Expedition,” of which the author consented to undertake
+the leadership, the members being: CARL SKOTTSBERG, born 1880, D.Sc.,
+Lecturer at the University of Upsala; PERCY D. QUENSEL, born 1881,
+B.Sc. (now Dr.), Upsala; and THORE G. HALLE, born 1884, B.Sc. (now
+Dr.), Stockholm.
+
+I devoted myself to botanical work, but also made most of the
+insignificant zoological collections. The speciality of Mr. Halle was
+the survey of fossiliferous deposits, and as a clever bryologist, he
+assisted me in gathering mosses and other cryptogams. Mr. Quensel was
+mainly occupied with studies of the eruptive rocks, the origin of
+the Andes and the phenomena of glaciation. On many occasions the two
+geologists collaborated.
+
+But it is one thing to make up one’s mind to go to South America,
+another to get money for such a purpose. The expedition cost about
+23,000 Swedish crowns (£1280), and thanks to several funds, scientific
+societies and private persons, we procured the necessary money without
+great difficulty. Many useful articles in our equipment were presented
+to us, and the Swedish Johnson Line in Stockholm gave us a free passage
+on its steamers to and from Buenos Aires. To all those who assisted us,
+I have tried to express our gratitude in the preface to the Swedish
+edition of this book, and have explained how it would have been
+absolutely impossible to make a journey which lasted nearly two years
+at such small expense, had it not been for the unparalleled generosity
+shown by Argentina and more especially by Chile--not that the Argentine
+Government was less interested, but we spent most of the time in Chile.
+I need not repeat this, nor my sincere thanks to the representatives of
+Sweden. There is, however, one thing that I want specially to mention
+on the occasion of my book being laid before English readers. We spent
+part of the time in a British colony, the Falkland Islands, where
+His Excellency the Governor, Mr. W. L. Allardyce, C.M.G., and Mrs.
+Allardyce, both deeply interested in scientific work in general as also
+in our personal welfare, did all they could to promote our success. We
+are also greatly indebted to the Falkland Islands Company Ltd., to its
+director in London, Mr. F. E. Cobb, as well as to its representatives
+in Port Stanley, Mr. W. Harding, Mr. W. C. Girling and Lieutenant
+Colonel A. Reid, D.S.O. (no longer in the Company’s service). We also
+owe very much to numerous sheep-farmers, Mr. Allen of Darwin, Messrs.
+Benney of Saunders Island, Mr. Bertrand of Roy Cove, Dr. Bolus (now in
+Punta Arenas, then in Fox Bay), Mr. Felton of Westpoint Island, Dr.
+Foley, of Darwin, Mr. Mathews of Port Howard, Mr. Miller of Hill Cove,
+Mr. Packe of Port Louis, and many others, too numerous to mention.
+In Chile as well as in Argentina we met and were assisted by a great
+number of English people; we made good friends wherever we came, and
+learnt to admire the English nation as the great civilising power of
+the world.
+
+It may not be considered unnecessary to mention, that during the whole
+journey under most trying conditions, I and my comrades remained the
+same good friends as we had been on leaving Sweden. Nothing is so well
+calculated to try friendship as a wild life away from culture and from
+other people. In this case friendship certainly stood the test.
+
+  C. S.
+
+ UPSALA, 1911
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+  PREFACE                                                       Page vii
+
+  CHAPTER I
+
+  THE COASTS OF THE FALKLAND ISLANDS
+
+  We leave Sweden: Visits to Buenos Aires and Montevideo: Arrive at the
+  Falkland Islands: Position: Port Stanley and its Social Life:
+  Communications: The Landscape round the Town: Cape Pembroke
+  Lighthouse and the Forest in the Sea: To the West Falklands: Wild
+  Cattle: The Falkland Fox: Adventure on Fox Island: Life on Remote
+  Islands: Roy Cove and the Tale of a Ship’s Adventure: Westpoint
+  Island: Tussock-grass: Bird Life: The Dead Forest             Pp. 1-18
+
+  CHAPTER II
+
+  RIDING THROUGH THE FALKLANDS
+
+  Hill Cove, a Fine Settlement: Shepherds and their Life: Ascent of
+  Mount Adam: A Nocturnal Excursion: Saunders Island and a Page of
+  History: Valley of the Warrah River: A Dangerous Passage: Port
+  Howard: Across Country to Fox Bay: A miserable Christmas: Notes
+  on Geology: Lafonia and Port Darwin: A Ride to San Carlos: Return
+  Overland to Port Stanley: Port Louis and its History: Departure
+                                                               Pp. 19-31
+
+  CHAPTER III
+
+  IN TIERRA DEL FUEGO
+
+  Punta Arenas: Babylonian Confusion: Preparations: Dawson Island and
+  the Salesian Mission Station: On the Shore of Lake Fagnano: Hardships
+  in the Azopardo Valley: The First Guanaco: We Pitch the Tents at
+  Fagnano: Pagels: The Betbeder Pass and Discoveries South of it: A
+  chilly awakening: Halle’s Excursion to Lake Deseado: Boat Trip
+  on Lake Fagnano: We Raise our Camp: A Difficult Embarking:
+  Back in Punta Arenas                                         Pp. 32-61
+
+  CHAPTER IV
+
+  OTWAY WATER AND SKYRING WATER
+
+  Cape Froward: Jerome Channel: Patagonian Gold Fever: Along the
+  Shores of Otway: Notes on Vegetation: Fitzroy Channel: Storm:
+  A Solitary Hut: Traces of Indians: Excelsior and Glacier Sounds:
+  Gajardo Channel and a Perilous Boat Excursion: _Huemul_ Aground:
+  The Water of Skyring: Fossiliferous Beds: Another Tale of a Mine:
+  A Nocturnal Adventure: Saved                                 Pp. 62-74
+
+  CHAPTER V
+
+  THE PATAGONIAN CHANNELS
+
+  Preparations: Captain Bordes: Our Indian Interpreter: The Magellan
+  Skärgård: On the Evangelistas Rocks: Unknown Waters: The Patagonian
+  Channels and their Nature: We meet the first Indians: Two
+  Tracks: The Penas Gulf: Baker Inlet: In the unknown Interior of
+  Peel Inlet: Back through Smyth Channel                       Pp. 75-90
+
+  CHAPTER VI
+
+  A DYING RACE
+
+  Our first Encounter with Aborigines: Appearance: Visit to an Indian
+  Camp: The Indian Wigwam: Food: Hunting and Weapons: Social
+  Customs: Treatment of the Women: Character: Nomadic Life:
+  Canoes: Travelling: Remarkable Portages: Language: Extermination:
+  Views of the Future                                         Pp. 91-103
+
+  CHAPTER VII
+
+  CHILOÉ AND THE GULF OF CORCOVADO
+
+  Chiloé, Historical Retrospect: Ancud, the Capital: Schools: Power
+  of the Roman Catholic Church: The Chilotes and their Life: A Ride
+  to the Pacific Coast: Pudeto River: Primeval Forest of Chiloé: Castro:
+  Adventurous Voyage to Huafo Island: Forest Scenery: Wild Days:
+  To the Island of San Pedro in the Footsteps of Darwin: Quellon:
+  Corcovado, “el famoso”: The Yelcho Valley                  Pp. 104-124
+
+  CHAPTER VIII
+
+  IN THE HEART OF CHILE
+
+  To the Centre of Chile: Corral and Valdivia: Halle’s Surveys in the
+  Coal-mines of Arauco: Lota: Valparaiso: Santiago and its Swedish
+  Colony: Los Andes: The Uspallata Pass and the Transandine
+  Railway: Aconcagua: Baño del Inca: A Strange Descent: The
+  Great National Festival of Chile: To Port Montt            Pp. 125-133
+
+  CHAPTER IX
+
+  ROBINSON CRUSOE’S ISLAND
+
+  The Islands of Juan Fernandez: Discovery and Position: First
+  Impression: Robinson’s “Look-out”: Wonderful Plant World: The Chonta
+  Palm: Marvellous Ferns: Extermination of a Unique Vegetation:
+  The Memorial Tablet of Alexander Selkirk, the real Robinson: The
+  History of the Sandal Tree: The last Sandal Tree: Robinson’s Grotto:
+  Bahia del Padre: Masafuera Island: Topography: Remarkable Plain:
+  Wild Goats: Marvellous Valleys: Our Scientific Results: The Future
+  of the Islands                                             Pp. 134-148
+
+  CHAPTER X
+
+  ACROSS THE ANDES INTO ARGENTINA
+
+  Plans for the Return South: Notes on the Discoveries in Patagonia: The
+  Boundary Dispute between Chile and Argentina: We leave Port
+  Montt: Osorno and Calbuco Volcanoes: Lake Todos los Santos: On
+  the Glaciers of Mount Tronador: Across the Pass: Snowstorm:
+  Bariloche: Preparations for a Long Journey: Our Caravan and Equipment:
+  On Horseback                                               Pp. 149-166
+
+  CHAPTER XI
+
+  THROUGH NORTHERN PATAGONIA
+
+  First Impression of the Pampas: Our First Camping-place: Norquinco:
+  Half the Caravan Disappears!: Inquiries: Across the River Chubut:
+  Life on the Lelej Farm: A Hearty Welcome: Ostriches and Guanacos:
+  Through the Nahuelpan Pass: 16th October Valley: Notes on Vegetation:
+  Along the Futaleufú River to the Chilean Boundary: South
+  Again: In the Valley of the River Carrenleufú: Another Bankrupt
+  Company and a Swedish Colonist                             Pp. 167-186
+
+  CHAPTER XII
+
+  THROUGH THE CORDILLERAS TO THE PACIFIC COAST
+
+  Salt Lagoons and Abundant Bird-life: The First “Meseta”: The Cisnes
+  Valley: Excursion to the Forest Region: Tuco-tuco and Patagonian
+  Deer: Senguerr River: No Water: Back in Chile: Lamb-marking:
+  The Coyaike Valley: The Aysen Company: To the Pacific Coast:
+  Luxuriant Rain-forest: Return to Aysen                     Pp. 187-197
+
+  CHAPTER XIII
+
+  LAKE BUENOS AIRES
+
+  The Swamp of Rio Mayo: Meseta Chalia, an Adventurous Passage: Floating
+  Soil and Tuco-tucos: A Dangerous Descent: The Puma: Valle
+  Koslowsky: A Singular Telegraph Office: The Landscape round Lake
+  Buenos Aires: In the Fenix Valley: Interesting Vegetation: Hunting
+  Young Guanacos: Patagonian Fur-trade: Armadillos: Ruckel’s
+  Peril: Difficulties in the Jeinemeni Valley: Ascent of the Mountain
+  ridge at Zeballos River                                    Pp. 198-220
+
+  CHAPTER XIV
+
+  LAGO BELGRANO
+
+  The Zeballos Pass: Natural Features at Lake Pueyrredon: Troublesome
+  Ascent: In the Tarde Valley: Across to Belgrano River: Unexpected
+  Encounter with German Colonists: Our Sin against the Eighth
+  Commandment: Christmas: We Start on the Lake: Contrary Winds:
+  On the Lake Azara: Glorious Mountain Scenery: A Happy New Year!
+  We strike Camp                                             Pp. 221-238
+
+  CHAPTER XV
+
+  LAKE SAN MARTÍN
+
+  Across the High Pampas: Crossing the Rivers Belgrano and Lista: The
+  Troublesome Tuco-tuco Rivulet: Through the Forest to Carbon
+  River: The Fósiles Pass, our Worst Day: Lake San Martín: Start
+  with a Berthon Boat: Head Wind: In the Northern Arm: The
+  Schoenmeyr Glacier: Imminent Peril: “Galley-slavery”: Farewell
+  to San Martin                                              Pp. 239-257
+
+  CHAPTER XVI
+
+  ACROSS THE SIERRA DE LOS BAQUALES
+
+  The Swamps round Laguna Tar: An Unexpected Encounter: Pavo and
+  the Skunk: On the shores of Lake Viedma: Leona River and a Dead
+  Landscape: With Carlos Fuhr: The Ferry-boat on Santa Cruz River:
+  Visit to Cattle’s Farm: A Lady Gaucho: The Baguales Range: Back
+  to Civilisation!: Notes on the History of South Patagonia  Pp. 258-271
+
+  CHAPTER XVII
+
+  LAGO ARGENTINO
+
+  Quensel’s Boat Journey in 1908: The Start and Equipment: Squally
+  Weather: Bismarck Glacier, a Splendid Sight: Large Icebergs: With
+  a Canvas Boat in the Ice: To the North Arm: Hell Gate: A Dangerous
+  Landing: A Narrow Escape: Upsala Glacier: Another Clean Shave:
+  Back again with Rich Results                               Pp. 272-277
+
+  CHAPTER XVIII
+
+  OUR JOURNEY TO PUNTA ARENAS
+
+  Estancia Payne: Importunate Foxes: Cerro Payne, Patagonia’s most
+  Beautiful Mountain: Quensel’s Excursion in 1907: Cerro Donoso:
+  A Bad Day and a Worse Night: Tame Deer: In the Payne Mountains:
+  The White Stag: A Picnic Party: My Excursion to the Inland Ice:
+  A Heavy March: Ultima Esperanza: The Eberhard Family: The
+  Maylodon Cave: A Night’s Ride: We part with our Horses: Arrival
+  at Punta Arenas                                            Pp. 278-295
+
+  CHAPTER XIX
+
+  THE BEAGLE CHANNEL
+
+  Back in the Channels: The Brecknock Pass: Wonderful Glaciers: Lapataia
+  and Lake Acigami: The Mission in Douglas Bay: The Last Yahgans:
+  Notes on Geology: Ushuaia: Bridges’ Farm: Slogget Bay and Gold-digging
+  in Tierra del Fuego: Another Boundary Dispute: Return to
+  Punta Arenas and to Buenos Aires                           Pp. 296-313
+
+  CHAPTER XX
+
+  A WINTER TRIP TO SOUTH GEORGIA
+
+  We leave on Board the _Cachalote_: Severe Damage of Engines: Adrift on
+  the High Seas: Exciting Situation: The Engines Repaired: Bad
+  Night on the Coast: At Anchor again: Nature and Position of South
+  Georgia: Climate: Flora and Fauna: Winter’s Unexpected Arrival:
+  Along the Coast: Stormy Days: Whaling: A Singular 1st of May:
+  With Escort to Buenos Aires: Return to Sweden              Pp. 314-329
+
+  INDEX                                                           P. 330
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+                                                          _To face
+                                                             page_
+
+  Carl Skottsberg                                   _Frontispiece_
+
+  Percy D. Quensel                                               4
+
+  Thore G. Halle                                                 4
+
+  Typical Landscape in East Falkland with quartzite ridge       10
+
+  Mollymawk Rookery, West Point Island                          16
+
+  Penguin Rookery (Eudyptes), West Point Island                 16
+
+  The Great Stone-run South of Port Louis, East Falkland        28
+
+  The Roads of Punta Arenas, South-wester blowing               32
+
+  Punta Arenas from the hills                                   32
+
+  Back from the Betbeder Pass                                   38
+
+  Indians at the Dawson Mission Station                         38
+
+  The Betbeder Valley                                           52
+
+  Mount Svea, with glacier and moraines                         52
+
+  The Bottom of Ventisqueros Sound                              68
+
+  The Entrance of Excelsior Sound                               72
+
+  Our Interpreter, Channels of Patagonia                        78
+
+  Two Channel Indians                                           78
+
+  Peel Inlet, with great glaciers                               90
+
+  Indian Camp, Sarmiento Channel                                94
+
+  Chilote House                                                106
+
+  The Plaza in Ancud, Chiloé                                   106
+
+  The Famous Corcovado                                         116
+
+  Valdivia                                                     126
+
+  Harbour at Valparaiso                                        126
+
+  Robinson’s “Lookout,” with commemorative tablet              140
+
+  View from top of Masafuera showing canyons                   144
+
+  Robinson’s Grotto                                            144
+
+  Puerto Montt                                                 158
+
+  Ready to start                                               158
+
+  Small Patagonian Sheep Farm                                  176
+
+  Patagonian Rain-forest                                       194
+
+  Fenix River                                                  214
+
+  Valley of Antiguos River looking South                       214
+
+  The Belgrano Pass, with giant basalt pillars                 226
+
+  West Arm of Lake Belgrano                                    226
+
+  German Colonists, Lake Belgrano                              234
+
+  Breakfast Table on Christmas Day, Lake Belgrano              234
+
+  View of Pampas, near Lake Argentino                          262
+
+  Dead Landscape, East of Leona River                          262
+
+  The Bismarck Glacier, Lake Argentino                         274
+
+  The Upsala Glacier, Lake Argentino (the biggest in
+  Patagonia)                                                   274
+
+  Icebergs and Canvas Boat, Lake Argentino                     274
+
+  Last Hope Inlet                                              288
+
+  The “Neomylodon” Cave, Last Hope Inlet                       292
+
+  The Beagle Channel, looking West                             296
+
+  Ushuaia and Martial Mountains                                304
+
+  Glacier in N.W. Arm of Beagle Channel                        310
+
+  Panorama South-west side of Lake Acigami                     312
+
+  “The Winter’s Bark,” Tierra del Fuego                        312
+
+  The Norwegian Factory, South Georgia                         316
+
+  A Meeting in South Georgia                                   316
+
+  Humpback Whale, upside down, South Georgia                   324
+
+  Three Right Whales, South Georgia                            324
+
+
+
+
+MAPS
+
+
+  Map of South America                                    _At end_
+
+  The Falkland Islands                            _Facing page_  6
+
+  Otway and Skyring Waters                           ”      ”   62
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+THE COASTS OF THE FALKLAND ISLANDS
+
+
+The Swedish steamer _Princess Ingeborg_ left Gothenburg on September
+10, 1907. Wind and sea favoured us, and, after a most agreeable
+passage, which came like a strengthening, refreshing rest after all the
+work of the preceding months, we arrived in Buenos Aires on October
+7. The Swedish Minister, Mr. O. Gyldén, gave us a hearty welcome,
+and informed us that the Argentine Republic had generously granted
+us the help we had applied for. We had ample time to get a glimpse
+of the surrounding country, but naturally preferred to confine our
+attention chiefly to the scientific centres, to La Plata, Buenos Aires,
+and Cordoba, where people always showed themselves interested in our
+enterprise and helped us to make a good start.
+
+In Montevideo the Swedish Consul, Mr. Rogberg, met us, and after a
+short stay, which we thoroughly enjoyed, we began our voyage on the
+P.S.N.C. liner _Oravia_.
+
+The big steamer made its way over a calm and friendly sea that lay
+glittering in the bright sunshine. For a couple of days we carried the
+spring of favoured Uruguay with us, but on the very morning when we
+expected to get our first glimpse of the Falklands a chill fog slowly
+descended over the waters, and anxious passengers tried in vain to
+get a sight of land. All at once, close by, the brown and yellow,
+storm-beaten coast loomed up out of the heavy mist, and through furious
+squalls and a deluge of rain the _Oravia_ steered between the Narrows
+and anchored in the spacious, natural harbour of Stanley.
+
+The first person to greet us was one of the staff of the Falkland
+Islands Company, Lieut.-Colonel Alexander Reid, D.S.O., who had
+served with the C.I.V.s during the last South African War. We shall
+always remember him as one of the best friends our expedition met on
+its long journey. Presently the acting Swedish Consul, Mr. Girling,
+arrived on board, and soon afterwards we found ourselves comfortably
+seated at afternoon tea in our new quarters. Once more the smoke
+from the Falkland peat-fire filled my nostrils, recalling to memory
+my old acquaintance with this peculiar land and its inhabitants--an
+acquaintance that I was now to revive and to increase. We said good-bye
+to Mr. Quensel for some time, as he was going straight on to Punta
+Arenas, in order to make an expedition into the interior of South
+Patagonia.
+
+The Falkland group extends from S. Lat. 51° to 52° 30’ and from Long.
+57° 40’ to 61° 25’ W., and consists of two large and a very great
+number of small islands, which form a regular barrier against the ocean
+waves. The coast-line is exceedingly broken; long, narrow, and winding
+creeks penetrate far into the country, marking the course, as there are
+many proofs to show, of old valleys now submerged under the level of
+the sea.
+
+On the east coast of East Falkland is situated the little town of
+Port Stanley, with about 1000 inhabitants. Along the south shore of
+the harbour and on the slope of a low ridge, which shuts out the view
+of the ocean towards the south, long rows of houses are erected, for
+the most part small cottages built of wood. They leave a very homely
+impression, as their occupants have tried to transform their porches
+into small conservatories, where the eye rests on bright colours--which
+the soil itself absolutely refuses to reproduce.
+
+Some buildings attracted our attention more than the rest. In the far
+“West End” there is a conglomeration of houses, together constituting
+the Government House, the residence of his Excellency the Governor.
+Mr. W. L. Allardyce, C.M.G., now holds this position. He is a man
+warmly interested in the material as well as the spiritual welfare of
+his colony, and we fully recognized his appreciation of our scientific
+work, which he tried to promote as far as lay in his power. He rules a
+vast dominion. Some years ago Great Britain painted red another large
+section of the globe, the colony now including, besides the Falklands
+and South Georgia, the South Sandwich Islands, South Orkneys, South
+Shetlands, and Graham’s Land. The result of this spread of British
+power was far-reaching. The whaling industry having languished in
+Norway, energetic whalers started in the South Atlantic and Antarctic
+Seas, and numerous vessels hunt there every summer and pay their
+tribute to the Falkland Government, which has thus increased its
+revenue.
+
+At the other end of the town lies a long white building, representing
+the second power here--not _the people_, but the F.I.C.--the Falkland
+Islands Company--a mighty institution. Only with the assistance of
+its chief on the spot, Mr. W. Harding, were we able to carry out our
+investigations in the most interesting part of East Falkland, or to
+visit the western islands, where the company’s small schooners are the
+sole available means of communication.
+
+The third State power, the press, is closely connected with the Church,
+as the name of the only paper, _The Falkland Islands Magazine and
+Church Paper_, issued once a month, bears incontestable witness. Close
+to the beach rises the cathedral; a proud title which is borne as a
+matter of fact by a little stone chapel. The city of Stanley is the
+headquarters of a bishop, but as his diocese includes almost the whole
+of South America the islanders do not enjoy his presence for more than
+a fortnight in the year. Naturally, the inhabitants are too numerous
+to be of one faith. Both Roman Catholics and Baptists have their own
+churches, but the relations between the different sects seem to be most
+amicable, at least if one dare judge from a certain little scene that
+has remained in my memory. A welcome was arranged for the bishop, and
+on that occasion the faithful gave free scope to their talents, and a
+Roman Catholic, whose intentions were excellent if his voice was poor,
+appeared on the stage and sang a little song in honour of his lordship.
+
+[Illustration: _Atelier Dahlgren, Upsala._
+
+PERCY D. QUENSEL.]
+
+[Illustration: _Wiklund, Stockholm. phot._
+
+THORE G. HALLE.]
+
+It is remarkable and almost touching to observe with what faithfulness
+the 2300 Falklanders cling to the habits of the old country, from the
+parlour with its polished stove, the china cats on the mantelpiece,
+the breakfast of eggs and bacon, to the bedrooms without a fire. When
+you have drawn the curtains and lit the lamp you can believe that you
+are in a snug little house in a small English town. But take a look
+out of doors, and you generally meet a howling west wind, a cold rain
+beats on your face, and whichever way you turn you always see the same
+dreary, desolate landscape. You must certainly be born in Northern
+Europe, or you would lose heart in this forlorn corner of the world.
+
+The centre of Stanley society is Government House, and picnics, dances,
+and dinners follow hard upon each other. I can assure you that there is
+plenty to amuse you in Stanley--that is, if you have the privilege of
+being admitted to the “upper ten” (without a thousand!).
+
+Life is much less easy for those who have been stranded on this
+inhospitable coast, not of their own free will, but by a cruel
+fate. Generally they seek refuge in one of the six small “hotels,”
+where statistics show the consumption of whisky to be considerable.
+Nevertheless, the police can go to bed early in Port Stanley, where the
+peace is seldom broken.
+
+Communication with England is kept up by the P.S.N.C. steamers, which
+touch once a month on their outward and once on their homeward passage
+from the west coast of Chile and Punta Arenas. Their visits put new
+life into the little town; boxes and parcels bring dainties and the
+latest fashions; the post-office is besieged; strangers come ashore
+to have a look round and to buy illustrated post-cards. But the huge
+black hull soon disappears, and the town sinks back into its usual
+quiet. Now and again a sailing-vessel happens to come inside the
+harbour--generally it is some damaged craft, which then often loses
+its freedom. To repair it is too expensive, and so the F.I.C. buys the
+whole thing, and the port makes an addition to its fine collection of
+old hulks.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+It is a day in early spring on the hills near Port Stanley. The heath
+stretches yellow and dreary, the withered grass is beaten to the ground
+by an irritating wind, from which you can find hardly any shelter.
+Grey and broken quartzite ridges run through brown peat-bogs. Nowhere
+is there a tree visible, scarcely a bush is to be seen; the islands
+are absolutely destitute of timber, and the inhabitants use dried peat
+for fuel. Here and there a little white flower has ventured to peep
+out of the dead grass and stands shivering in the cold. Let us climb
+one of the low peaks that rise a little above the surroundings, and
+get a more extensive but not a finer view. Everywhere we see the same
+sad picture; low ridges, undulating plains, winding brooks, where
+boggy ground gleams with its dangerous bright green colour as if to
+warn the horseman. Here and there glitters some little shallow pond. A
+frightened flock of sheep hurries off, screaming seagulls hasten past,
+slowly the turkey-buzzard soars away....
+
+Such is often the impression you get on a short visit to the Falklands,
+especially during the unfavourable season, and even a bright sunny
+day can hardly give this scenery real charm. Grand it could never
+be without the assistance of the sea, for here as in so many other
+places in the world the roaring surf bestows a wild beauty upon the
+black, inhospitable cliffs.
+
+[Illustration: FALKLAND ISLANDS]
+
+  Expeditions on land
+       ”      by sea
+
+We spent the first few days making excursions in the neighbourhood of
+the town, and Mr. Halle went as far as Port Louis. Later on I shall
+say more about that place. Before we leave this part of the island,
+however, let me conduct the reader to a point not far from the city,
+the lighthouse near Cape Pembroke, a spot that has always possessed a
+strong attraction for me since the first time I visited it. One can get
+there overland or by boat--let us choose the latter way this time! The
+landing is interesting enough; the shore is rocky, and we steer through
+foaming breakers towards a narrow gap. Every eye is watchful, every
+hand ready. Across the opening a heavy chain is stretched, and when the
+boat passes underneath a line is flung round it, the end being secured
+round the middle bench of the boat; at the same moment another line is
+thrown ashore, where a man stands ready to receive it. It is indeed
+required; the surf rolling in hurls the boat forward with creaking
+timbers and then draws it back again, so that the ropes are strained
+like the strings of a violin. If you miss the chain your boat may be
+crushed against the cliffs. This, indeed, _has_ happened, but I am glad
+to say that I managed to get ashore without adventure, and at once went
+to see that good fellow, the lighthouse-keeper, who was glad enough to
+get some company in his loneliness. In truth, one would have to seek
+far to find a more desolate place than this. After the destruction of
+the tussock-grass the whole promontory was changed into a vast field
+of drifting sand. Desolation whispers in the whistling sand that
+beats on the windows; desolation howls in the gale round the black,
+jagged rocks; desolation thunders in the everlasting breakers. But
+one gets a certain feeling of security when within; the light carries
+on its silent struggle with danger and darkness and the sand rattles
+incessantly against the iron walls. The magnificent lamp is of the
+“Lux” pattern, and a good old “Primus” is used to heat the burner. The
+vigorous keeper, my friend Mr. Pearce, nurses his light as if it were a
+baby; every part of its mechanism is perfectly clean and shining, and
+he tells you with barely concealed pride that the electric flash from
+the mail-steamer is but poor stuff in comparison with his own light. He
+listens to every word when you tell him of foreign countries, and he
+himself has rather specialized on the Antarctic regions, ever since the
+time when the leader of the Scottish National Antarctic Expedition, Mr.
+Bruce, was his guest.
+
+When the sun rose I found plenty to do. At low tide there is a
+precious world spread out on the dry rocks or in half-emptied pools.
+The rocks are covered with seaweeds, green and reddish brown, of all
+shades and colours; half dead from thirst, they await the arrival of
+another tide which shall restore them to life. In the small ponds
+or basins a variegated company dwells. A carpet of rose-coloured
+calcareous algæ covers the rock, and here and there are patches of
+other seaweeds, from the largest blade-like variety to the small,
+elegant bushes, displaying the brightest scarlet or crimson, purple or
+violet colouring. And what a life there is in these recesses! The most
+splendid _actiniæ_--sea-anemones, as they are often called--stretch
+their hundreds of arms; an innumerable horde of little crustaceæ dance
+round and round, wild with delight; beautiful shells rest lazily in
+safe nooks and crannies, while here and there little fishes that have
+got left behind when the water receded dart to and fro in their anxiety
+to escape their temporary prison.
+
+Deeper down the gigantic _Durvilleas_ roll their bodies in the
+foam--they are some feet broad and many feet long, and fastened on
+the bare rock by means of a short thick stalk, and a disc just like
+a horse’s hoof. Some of them farther out in the heaviest surf are
+of another shape: they are divided into long, cylindrical segments,
+which writhe like serpents in eternal struggle with the full force of
+the sea. Below lies the forest of the ocean. It is formed of another
+brown kelp, the arboreous _Lessonia_, with trunks many feet long and
+as thick as a man’s thigh, carrying a crown of large yellowish-brown
+leaves, just peeping above the water, and slowly swinging forwards
+and backwards in the waves. It is a magnificent sight, this submerged
+forest, with its rich bower, where fishes and all sorts of marine
+animals swim, while a whole world of plants and creatures thrive in its
+shadows. A pair of ducks glide along chattering and quacking, followed
+by five dear little ducklings, who make their voyage of discovery to
+the promised land under their parents’ wise direction. Clear as crystal
+is the water, and the temptation to have a bathe is very strong indeed.
+How one would enjoy climbing in those curious trees! No fear that the
+branches may give way, for they are made to carry a greater weight
+than ours. What a pity that the water is so cold--but a few degrees
+above freezing-point!
+
+Finally, let us gaze round farther away over the water. There is a
+yellow or brownish band, that extends along the shores as far as we can
+see. It is one of the most famous plants in the world, _Macrocystis_,
+Nature’s own beacon. One might say that as a rule there is no dangerous
+reef where that giant seaweed does not grow to warn the sailor. And how
+beautiful it is, with its graceful branches softly moving to and fro
+with the swell of the ocean!
+
+We landed in Port Stanley on October 26, and it was long before we
+found a schooner bound for an extended trip. But finally, on November
+18, the _Lafonia_ hoisted the Swedish as well as the English colours
+and steered out to the open, to work her way westward round the north
+coast.
+
+The outlines of the country are monotonous; only here and there a round
+hill rises above the neighbouring plains, always making a good landmark.
+
+The land has disappeared; we are outside the Falkland Sound which
+separates the two large islands, and by-and-by we get sight of the
+three hummocks on Pebble Island. We steer clear of the thousands of
+dangerous reefs, and continue westward with a fresh N.N.W. and a heavy
+sea that washes our little craft from bow to stern. The good wind keeps
+fresh, and we pass the straits at Carcass Island, cross Byron Sound,
+and have the good luck to reach Westpoint Passage with the rising tide,
+which allows us to get through this difficult channel. The tidal
+currents on the Falkland coast are perhaps the greatest danger to
+sailing-vessels. They swirl through those innumerable narrow channels
+which one is bound to get through, with the strength of up to six or
+seven knots. A look on a chart is sufficient to persuade us that we
+are navigating a very disagreeable coast. Hardly a year passes without
+one or more of the small Stanley schooners leaving the town, never to
+return.
+
+[Illustration: TYPICAL LANDSCAPE IN EAST FALKLAND, WITH QUARTZITE
+RIDGE.]
+
+The scenery has changed a little. It is desolate as before, but
+grander. The cliffs run down to the sea sheer as though cut by a knife,
+while heavy breakers throw their foam high above them. On the inside of
+the steep Rabbit Island, in King George’s Bay, the _Lafonia_ anchored,
+but the next morning we continued our journey across the gulf, through
+the critical East passage, and then through a long and winding sound to
+the entrance of Port Philomel. Here we encountered a gale lasting four
+and a half days. With the prevailing south-west wind it was out of the
+question to get away. We were anchored only a few hundred yards off the
+land, but the wind was so strong that it was with difficulty we managed
+to get ashore. We wanted to march across the peninsula, in order to get
+acquainted with one of the more inaccessible parts of the island. It is
+a heavy job to march in the Falkland camp, up and down all the time,
+through ravines, stone-runs, or swamps. Our fame as “foot-Indians” is
+not small in Port Stanley, and we begin to understand why the people
+regard a long walk in the camp as something rather eccentric.
+
+We had just climbed a steep ridge when I thought I smelt something
+familiar, and stopped to trace it. No doubt it must be cattle, which
+seemed peculiar so far away from any settlement. But the smell got
+stronger, and from the top of the ridge we caught sight of the
+cause--some of the scanty remnants of the wild cattle, a small herd of
+twenty, amongst them some calves and two bulls. They at once caught
+sight of us, cows and calves fell back, and the bulls stopped in front
+of them, ready for action. But we did not want to come any closer, and
+thought it better to stop where we were and watch them. They were two
+imposing beasts, very wild-looking, with enormous horns, long coarse
+hair, and a tail with a tuft of respectable dimensions. Some minutes
+passed; they slowly retired, but turned round at every second step in
+order to send us a friendly look. We picked our way cautiously, for we
+did not wish to run across them unawares, in which case they would have
+charged us immediately. And as we were on foot and without any other
+arms than a knife to dig up plants with, we were not exactly prepared
+to enter on a struggle.
+
+When the colonists in the middle of the last century came to the
+islands these were well stocked with wild cattle, and we were told the
+most exciting tales of hunting them with lasso and knife, but without
+firearms. “That was grand sport,” said an old gentleman-pioneer. I do
+not doubt this, but horse and rider lost their lives in more than one
+encounter.
+
+Finally the wind changed, and the question of how to get out through
+the narrow passage arose. The current here, which makes about seven
+knots, played with the ship for a while, but eventually we came safely
+through it, and anchored again on the north side of Fox Island. Here,
+however, no foxes live, the name being all that is left of the Falkland
+fox. He was too tame; that was his worst fault. An old farmer on the
+settlement in front of the island told me that he killed his last fox
+in 1873, and shortly afterwards the animal was extinct. This is a pity,
+as the species _Canis falklandicus_ has now disappeared for ever.
+
+The glass had fallen for a second time, but our anxiety to visit Fox
+Island was so great that not even the threatening Falkland weather
+could keep us back. My intention was to look at and photograph the
+largest land plant of all Falkland, the _Veronica elliptica_, or
+Falkland box, which seems to reach its greatest dimensions just here.
+I had just exposed a couple of plates when the first squall came with
+a deluge of rain. We tried to get on board while there was time, and
+made full speed for the landing-place; at 1 P.M. we were back there.
+But it was too late. A fresh gale was blowing in the harbour: far out
+the _Lafonia_ lay, rocking on her cables. I shall never forget the six
+hours we spent on shore without shelter. At seven o’clock the wind fell
+a little, enough to let the crew lower the lifeboat and come to fetch
+us. Captain Osborne himself held the tiller, and though six oars worked
+with the full strength of muscular arms they nearly failed to reach us.
+
+We did not regret that place very much when we weighed anchor to visit
+the outlying islands, Weddell, Beaver, and New Islands, each of which
+is a small sheep-farm. I can hardly imagine people more shut out of
+the world than their inhabitants. Years pass without their seeing any
+strangers save the crew of the little schooner that comes once or
+twice a year to bring provisions and carry away the wool. Here one
+has to economise; for if one runs short of an article one remains so,
+though there is always a spare supply of important things. We met
+several full-grown persons who were born there and had never left
+the place, and who thought Port Stanley something marvellous. This
+explains the queer behaviour of a young lady of eighteen who ran away
+and hid herself when we came, thus providing us with an altogether new
+experience.
+
+No scientists had visited the outlying islands, and people had told us
+many remarkable things about the geology as well as the botany of the
+place. But though these are typical of all parts of the West Falklands,
+it was nevertheless worth something to be able to reduce such rumours
+to their proper proportions.
+
+It will be easily understood that it must be very difficult even on
+the greater and richer settlements to reproduce the features of a snug
+and sheltered home, where the natural conditions are so unpromising as
+on the Falklands. When we steered into the narrow creek on the north
+side of King George’s Bay, called Roy Cove, we were quite astonished
+to find that place well worthy of being called habitable. The hills
+are rather picturesque, and the comfortable little houses, embedded
+in gorse-hedges now in full bloom, left a very favourable impression.
+In the creek we made a discovery that caused us all to stare with
+amazement. Here lay a large iron vessel, and we could not possibly
+imagine what business it could have in such a remote corner. But the
+enigma was soon solved: the French barque _Duc d’Aumale_ had sprung
+a leak on the high seas, on her way to the west coast of America,
+and though in another couple of hours she would have gone down to a
+certainty, at the very last moment her captain managed to bring her
+into Roy Cove with the aid of a chart. The ocean here has many tales
+to tell: almost every point or reef is connected with some shipwreck;
+innumerable are the ships that destruction has overtaken on this coast,
+where no beacon or light announces danger.
+
+We had got much information about West Point Island, and had resolved
+to make a fairly long stay there if possible. When we anchored at the
+settlement on the island, “Clifton Station,” on December 7, there was
+no need for the owner’s (Mr. Arthur Felton) persuasions; we were only
+too glad to abandon the _Lafonia_, which continued her voyage, and to
+settle on shore. Mr. Felton approximates very nearly to my ideal of
+a man. Ready to enjoy life and civilization when there is a chance,
+he nevertheless lives in complete harmony with the wild camp life;
+interested in his work, he tries all sorts of grasses for his sheep,
+but is also--an exception to the general rule--intensely fond of nature
+itself and gifted with such a remarkable capacity for observation that
+many a naturalist by profession has reason to envy him. He knows every
+beast or plant on his island, he loves and nurses them, quite convinced
+that the human race can live at its ease without depriving living
+things which do him no harm of any chance of existence. I have never
+met anybody but him who tries to save one of the Falklands’ finest
+adornments, the giant tussock-grass (_Poa flabellata_), which is nearly
+extinct wherever there are sheep, much to the detriment of the coast’s
+appearance.
+
+[Illustration: MOLLYMAWK ROOKERY, WEST POINT ISLAND.
+
+[Illustration: PENGUIN ROOKERY (EUDYPTES) WEST POINT ISLAND.]
+
+Mr. Felton expressed the deepest interest in our work, and spared
+neither trouble nor time to prove it; he took the greatest care that
+we should get the best possible results from our visit to his kingdom,
+which we left after a week, not without considerable regret, joining
+unanimously in the praise that has been showered upon West Point
+Island. An excursion across the island to the cliff with its steep
+rocks and crevices is well worth making. Large grass-bogs cover the
+slopes, where mollymawks (_Diomedea chlororhyncha_) have their rookery.
+There are eggs in the nests, one of which is more than sufficient as a
+breakfast dish. To obtain these one must lift the hen away by force;
+quick as lightning she turns her head, opens her long beak, and shuts
+it with a click, and finally tries to turn her crop inside out and
+sprinkle the half-digested, stinking food on the intruders. On the
+slope above the albatross’s dominion is a penguin rookery, where the
+visitor may like to stop and look at those, perhaps the most comical of
+all, animals chattering and screaming among the pink-coloured guano.
+They belong to the “rock-hoppers” (_Eudyptes chrysocome_), and are
+dark blue and white, with a number of yellow feathers on the side of
+the head. The penguins depend completely on the water, and those of
+West Point have a hard climb of over a hundred yards to the surf,
+where they tumble about in a most neck-breaking fashion. Thousands
+and thousands of small penguin feet have dug deep marks in the hard
+rocks, climbing up and down, century after century. Quite struck with
+the uncommon sight, we sat still to watch them, as they emerged out
+of the breakers, jumped ashore, and started their fatiguing climb up
+the cliff, carefully putting their little claws where their ancestors
+through innumerable ages have put theirs, the road being so narrow and
+difficult that the penguins willy-nilly must follow in each other’s
+footsteps.
+
+As I have already mentioned, the Falklands have no indigenous arboreous
+vegetation. This was not always so. I am not alluding to distant
+geological periods with a plant-world quite different from that of our
+era, for even in the epoch in which we live there were forests in the
+Falklands. With the deterioration of the climate that gave rise to the
+ice-age large tracts of austral South America became covered with a
+mighty ice-cap; hundreds of plants and animals died out or migrated to
+the north. This did not take place on the Falklands. They experienced
+the hard time in another manner, and there is no trace of a glaciation.
+The weather became more chilly and wet, and the ground was so saturated
+with moisture that it began to slide away downhill, carrying with it
+blocks of all sizes and shapes. The forest disappeared, and certainly
+a number of animals and plants. When the conditions grew better the
+moving soil came to a standstill, the finer material, sand and clay,
+was washed away into the sea, but heaps of blocks are left in evidence
+of past times. These are the famous stone-runs or stone-rivers, that
+will always rouse the interest of the stranger as well as the islander.
+Everywhere these peculiar formations are met with, forming a network on
+the slopes of the valleys or long grey streams of stones at the bottom.
+They constitute an obstacle to traffic quite as insurmountable as the
+swamps.
+
+We had no idea before our arrival at West Point that there had been
+forests on the islands during a period, geologically speaking, so
+near our own. The rumour of heavy logs found in the ground had helped
+to bring us there, though we had been disposed to attribute the find
+to common driftwood. There was no doubt, however, that this was the
+remains of an old forest of needle-trees, well covered by the old
+sliding soil, and we had been lucky enough to make a discovery of the
+greatest interest. Long afterwards “the kelper” spoke of nothing but
+the old forest--the consciousness of the simple fact that there had
+grown big trees on his island seemed to strengthen his pride.
+
+Our time was up. The signal-fire flared, and on “the main” a man with
+horses expected us. We were to experience a new phase of Falkland
+life--life on horseback.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+RIDING THROUGH THE FALKLANDS
+
+
+On horseback we slowly advanced along the rough, stony northern slope
+of the long peninsula. Several hours passed. We came close to the
+house of our guide, an old, taciturn Scotsman, and stopped for a while
+at his invitation. At once his talkative wife, attired in her best
+Sunday clothes, served us with whatever the Falklands can produce of
+delicious dishes, and we were then ready for a fresh start. What would
+this country be like without horses? All people ride, and ride well;
+it is the only way of travelling in the camp, where roads are unknown.
+At first we found it marvellous with what agility the horses trotted
+along, climbing the steepest slopes, and struggling down places that
+appeared perilous enough to the inexperienced rider. Sometimes there is
+danger, but soon one does not think of it, for in ninety-nine cases out
+of a hundred the horse is equal to the occasion. Hour after hour one
+rides in the comfortable wooden saddle without getting tired, thanks to
+the soft sheepskin. The wretched ground forces one to walk or trot, and
+the patches where one can gallop one’s horse are easily counted.
+
+Our goal for the day was Hill Cove, one of the finest settlements. With
+its numerous, friendly-looking buildings and its beautiful gardens
+it produces an uncommonly agreeable impression. Widely known is the
+“forest” of Hill Cove. In a little depression a number of northern
+trees are planted, mostly Scotch fir, which, being well sheltered, seem
+to thrive very well. It was pure delight once more to hear the wind
+soughing in the heads of the trees.
+
+We were received with the usual hospitality, and were provided with
+horses and guides, in spite of its being the busiest time of the year,
+when the sheep-shearing was on. Flock after flock was driven into a
+paddock, and from there to the shed, where the thick white wool was
+cut with clicking scissors, until one almost thought one heard the
+resultant heavy golden sovereigns jingling on the floor. Sheep-farming
+is a profitable industry, and many of the farmers are able every year
+to exchange the winter in the Falklands for England’s summer.
+
+The total stock on a settlement is divided into flocks, each watched
+by a shepherd, often a Scotsman. He lives out in the camp, sometimes
+far away from other human dwellings, in his snug little house, with
+his family, his dogs, and with good pay; he can keep a couple of
+cows, grow potatoes and cabbages, and use as much peat as he needs
+for fuel. Certainly his life is hard enough in summer-time; there is
+lamb-marking, shearing, and finally dipping, and no thought of a rest;
+but with winter comes an easier life, when he works with his horse-gear
+or reads sixpenny books and illustrated papers. Now and then he takes
+a ride round his district, gives an eye to the sheep, and sees that
+fences and gates are in order. We made many friends amongst the
+shepherds, who brought us safe through the thousands of dangerous bogs,
+offered us a seat at their table, and gave us a bed without any thought
+of payment.
+
+The land south of Hill Cove is mountainous, and a few hours’ ride
+brings us to the foot of Mount Adam, 2315 feet high, the highest
+mountain in the islands, and regarded as a very Mont Blanc by the
+islanders. As no scientific observations had been made there, we
+resolved to make an ascent. From Hill Cove we had to cross several
+ravines, but were able to ride up to the summit itself without
+inconvenience. Here we found the face of Nature very different from
+what we had been accustomed to! From the mountain-top we enjoyed a
+splendid view over half West Falkland, suggestive of Alpine landscape,
+certainly very tame, but still adorned by small snow-patches, a number
+of glittering mountain-lakes, and a few Alpine plants. Here were no
+sheep, but an expanse of virgin ground decked by the hand of Nature.
+And the weather! This wonderful everlasting April was very gracious to
+us all day long.
+
+We did not intend to stay long in Hill Cove, for the schooner which was
+to take us to Stanley might be expected in Fox Bay before Christmas,
+and we had several interesting places to visit. Our start, however, was
+almost too precipitate. One of the brothers Benney from Saunders Island
+came to the farm, and in spite of not having more than an hour to make
+ourselves ready, we made up our minds to accept his invitation and
+visit his island. We trotted away, a party of four, in order to reach
+Rapid Point, where a boat was to meet us before nightfall. But we were
+indeed deceived. When we reached the beach it was already pitch-dark;
+but horses have cats’ eyes, and soon we had a fine signal-fire on a
+hill. After a while the reply flashed forth from the island, but when
+the boat came it proved too small to take us all, as Halle and I were
+not expected. As the tidal currents in the channel are very strong,
+we could not be sure of being fetched the same night. We were told,
+however, to wait for a signal--one flash meaning a disagreeable ride,
+two a boat journey to the island. The night was very chilly, but we
+made ourselves as comfortable as possible with a queer camp-fire of
+gigantic dry trunks of seaweed (_Lessonia_), and Mr. Benney found some
+tea and sugar in his “maletas” (valise; many Spanish words, especially
+referring to horse-gear, are still used in the islands), so we had
+nothing to complain of. Midnight came, still no message; but at last
+two flashes illumined the darkness, and after a while we heard the
+longed-for splash of oars. We set off, but as we could hardly see our
+hands before us, the current took us outside the reef between Rapid
+Point and the island. The breakers told us the truth, and using all
+our strength we managed to reach the reef, jumped into the water, and
+dragged the boat across. Before a neatly laid table and some fat mutton
+we soon forgot the adventures of the night.
+
+Saunders Island is one of the few places on the Falklands to which
+historical reminiscences are attached. The discovery of the islands
+took place in 1592, though they may have been sighted even before 1520,
+but only in 1764 was the first colony founded by the French, who
+settled in Port Louis, on the East Falklands. The next year the English
+appeared at Port Egmont, and built their quarters a short distance
+from the actual settlement. But soon Spaniards from South America
+cast envious glances at the colony, and as the enemy was superior in
+numbers the fort at Port Egmont was given up. Old cannon-balls are
+still preserved, and several other relics such as the foundation-walls
+of the fortress, while traces of extensive gardens and ruins of the
+old settlement are still left. Later on the Spaniards left the place,
+colonisation proceeded once more, but only for a short time, and in
+1774 the place was abandoned.
+
+We had enjoyed Falkland summer weather for several days, but it was not
+long before it broke up. We were just on our way back to the mainland
+in a small yawl when the first squall came on us like lightning, and
+within half an hour the sea was so heavy that we were forced to turn
+back and had to cross in a small cutter. The narrow channel looked like
+a boiling cauldron, as the current ran against wind and sea; several
+times the cutter refused to answer the helm, but we managed at last
+to reach the mainland, where horses were once more awaiting us. The
+rain poured down, the ground was very difficult, wet and slippery,
+and progress very slow. We passed the natural ruin of Castle Hill,
+crossed five rivers, of which the last is the main river Warrah, the
+others its tributaries, and reached a shepherd’s house at nightfall.
+Horses from Port Howard met us here, and early the next morning we
+again found ourselves in the saddle. We wanted to survey the valley
+of Warrah River, which is one of the largest streams in West Falkland.
+At that time of the year, however, it carried but little water and we
+could cross without difficulty. We followed the barranca, which became
+steeper and steeper, necessitating our riding in single file, with the
+guide in front. Suddenly he stopped and shouted out a “Look out here!”
+Truly we could hardly see any signs of a path; a couple of hundred
+feet below wound the river, on our left a precipitous wall rose, and
+the narrow way was barred by huge blocks of stone. For an instant the
+horses seemed to hesitate, groped among the stones, got a foothold,
+took two or three unsteady steps, and scrambled past the obstacle. A
+slip, and horse and rider would have been precipitated into the river.
+“Rather a nasty place,” our man remarked, and neither of us found any
+reason to contradict him.
+
+We followed the river down to the place where the tidal region
+commences, crossed it once more, struggled a while with the network of
+a stone-run, and turned towards Port Howard, whose interesting natural
+harbour I would ask the reader to study on the map. Once more we found
+ourselves in a large and comfortable settlement, where Mr. and Mrs.
+Mathews gave us a hearty welcome, always ready to put that question to
+us which we heard so often: “What can we do to make it comfortable for
+you and to help you to attain good scientific results?”
+
+The bad weather continued; we made our excursions in storm and rain,
+walking about in oilskins. One day we made an ascent of Mount Maria,
+one of the highest mountains, and only a little lower than Mount Adam.
+But as the ground is uncommonly bad, the slope being one extensive
+network of stone-runs, we had to travel on foot. The rain poured down
+as we climbed along, and suddenly we found ourselves enveloped in a fog
+so dense and white that the view was shut off in all directions. It
+was certainly more by good luck than by good judgment that we walked
+straight on to the little cairn at the summit.
+
+Our stay in Port Howard yielded very good results, and with regret we
+said good-bye to our hosts, jumped into the saddle, and headed for Fox
+Bay on the south coast. We were accompanied by the mail-carrier. After
+a long and tiresome ride we reached our goal. Here lives the doctor of
+West Falkland; on the occasion of our visit the position was held by
+Dr. Bolus, who received us with the utmost courtesy and kindness. This
+young doctor was a good all-round man, for besides his proper duties he
+fulfilled those of custom officer, policeman, postmaster, and public
+registrar. Being a spirited fellow who rides alone by day or night in
+any weather, he had many tales to tell of hazardous rides, when snow
+covered the dangerous bogs; how he reached the western sea-shore,
+jumped into an ice-clad boat, and struggled through storm and mist
+to one or other of the outlying islands, where a fellow creature lay
+wrestling with death.
+
+Meanwhile the _Lafonia_ lingered. We had already made ourselves
+familiar with the thought of celebrating Christmas Eve with Dr. Bolus
+and his wife--it did not cause any mental struggle, as we could hardly
+have been better off than in their cosy home--when on the afternoon of
+December 22 the schooner entered the narrow creek. It brought us our
+mail, and, from the consulate in Port Stanley, the news of King Oscar’s
+death. And down here, in a remote corner of the Falklands, two blue
+and yellow flags were hoisted, half-mast, on the doctor’s house and on
+the little schooner. The next morning the _Lafonia_ weighed anchor.
+The wind was north-easterly, a rather uncommon occurrence, and with
+some misgivings we regarded the approaching Christmas Day. I believe
+that we never experienced anything like it. The small schooner rolled
+incessantly with a hard wind and heavy sea; we ran short of provisions,
+and there were no possibilities to raise our spirits.
+
+Gnawing at the last mutton-bones, we arrived in Stanley in the
+evening of Boxing Day, but found the capital empty. In a deluge of
+rain horseraces took place outside the town, and of course all the
+inhabitants had placed themselves under their umbrellas. But we stayed
+at home and ate, quickly, but heartily. Thus Christmas passed, and 1907
+was soon only a memory. We sat up to see the New Year in with some of
+our English friends, who did all they could to make us feel at home.
+And warmed by their friendship we almost forgot that we were far away
+from our homes and everything dear to us.
+
+We did not intend to stop long in Stanley, as the time had come to
+survey East Falkland. We had done but little there, and the most
+interesting part was still left. As soon as a schooner was ready,
+Halle went to Port Darwin, in Choiseul Sound; I had to complete my
+studies in the vicinity of Stanley. The camp revelled in the beauty
+of summer--everything in this world is a matter of comparison!--and
+the life on the rocks round the lighthouse once more attracted me. But
+Halle sent a message telling of great geological discoveries, and on
+January 14 I went on board the _Lafonia_, which could thus hoist the
+Swedish colours alongside of the English once more. We came out through
+Port Williams all right, and also passed the tussock-islands, where the
+sea-lions lay snoring. From there we had a miserable run, having to
+beat all the way down, and did not arrive at Darwin until late the next
+day.
+
+The south part of East Falkland, south of Wickham Heights, does
+not differ much from the rest of the island in appearance. With
+the exception of a very doubtful find on Speedwell Island, nothing
+indicated that layers younger than Devonian would occur on the
+islands. Halle’s discovery that the whole south part of East Falkland,
+generally called Lafonia, belongs to a younger period, viz., the
+Permo-carbonian, was thus of great interest, and in several places he
+made beautiful and valuable collections of the fossilised remains of
+plants (_Glossopteris_) which had once spread their shadow over the
+Falkland soil. Lafonia is owned by the Falkland Islands Company, and
+about 200,000 sheep graze on the undulating plains. We found here the
+largest pampas-like spots I ever saw in the islands, and enjoyed being
+able to travel at a fair speed. Otherwise the camp was more or less the
+same as usual--the same winding creeks, that appear in the middle of
+the country when you do not at all expect them, forcing you to make a
+long _détour_, the same streams slowly creeping through the treacherous
+peat, sometimes impassable, and always difficult to cross on horseback.
+
+The coast, of course, is as charming as ever with its rich bird-life,
+flocks of many coloured geese (_Chloëphaga_), red-legged gulls (_Larus
+Scoresbyi_), flapping shags, and a long row of squeaking waders; and
+its cliffs with guano and white rocks, sculptured by the waves into
+fantastic forms and tunnels.
+
+Darwin Harbour is the camp centre of the F.I.C. It is the next largest
+settlement, with about seventy or eighty inhabitants, and boasts of a
+good store, a school, and also a doctor.
+
+[Illustration: THE GREAT STONE-RUN SOUTH OF PORT LOUIS, EAST FALKLAND.]
+
+When we had crossed Lafonia in all directions we wanted to pay a visit
+to the west coast. Several days of heavy rain had soaked the camp and
+delayed our start, but finally we were able to set out, accompanied
+by Dr. Foley, who kindly acted as our guide. We soon left the plains
+and reached the usual broken ground; the wind was biting cold, and now
+and then a wet squall paid us its attention. Suddenly a long creek
+appeared; it was Port Sussex. The tide was out, and our horses splashed
+across cheerfully, making deep imprints in the smooth mud. Carefully
+they climbed the stony barranca on the other side; as they were not
+shod they hated stony places, and peered to right and left in order to
+see if there was no chance of breaking out. The doctor had pointed out
+a rock high up on the grey quartzite ridge; that was our landmark. The
+ascent was troublesome; the ground had become covered by loose peat
+and the horses began to get tired. On the top of one of the ridges we
+met with a critical passage, for which the doctor had already prepared
+us; a place where the pure peat, brown and loose, was exposed. At the
+edge the horses stopped with firm resolution, and we could read in
+their faces a “No, sir, that’s enough.” We dismounted, grasped the
+long cabresta (halter-strap) and pulled away. Absolute refusal; we
+pulled each at his end, the horse and I, and the stronger won. Then
+the lashes hailed down on the back of the insubordinate creature, it
+took a desperate jump, lay kicking and struggling in the black mud, and
+finally gained firm ground. We had passed the crest of Wickham Heights,
+and rode down a series of slopes to San Carlos South, a farm where the
+doctor was to vaccinate some children. As soon as he was ready, we
+started again. Night was coming on, and we neared our goal, the San
+Carlos valley, where the largest river of East Falkland winds its way
+along, deep and rapid. On the other side sharp crests rise, and at
+their foot we sighted the settlement, San Carlos North, where we were
+received with the same kindness as ever. The next day we returned to
+Darwin. I was anxious to return to Stanley, but delayed my departure as
+long as possible, as I wanted to make an ascent of Mount Usborne, the
+highest mountain in East Falkland. But the rainy season would not come
+to an end, and finally I had to leave for the town. This time I took
+the route overland. I asked Halle if possible to climb the mountain and
+make some observations for me, and as he was able to fulfil his mission
+I had no reason to complain.
+
+The track to Port Stanley follows the southern slope of Wickham
+Heights. It is one of the very worst in the islands (especially after
+a long rain like the one we had experienced), and near the town
+stone-runs appear with dangerous holes, covered by vegetation. We
+changed horses twice, and easily covered the distance, about sixty
+miles, in two days. Covered with mud and soaked to the skin, I rode
+into the town on February 1. Only twelve days were left till the day
+when the mail-steamer for Punta Arenas was due, and much work had
+still to be done. Amongst other things I would not willingly leave the
+islands without paying a visit to Port Louis, where J. G. Andersson
+and myself had lived some time during the winter of 1902. Port Louis
+is the classical ground of the Falklands. Here lie the ruins of the
+old settlement; here Charles Darwin strolled about; here J. D. Hooker
+collected materials for his famous “Flora Antarctica”; here the
+_Challenger_ was anchored. All these memories crowd upon the mind of a
+naturalist of to-day and cast a halo round the brown, desolate heath.
+
+Several historic ruins are left in Port Louis. Here in 1764 the first
+settlement was established by the French; a few years later Spain took
+possession of it, but probably withdrew the garrison before 1780. In
+1820 the captain of a vessel took possession of the islands for the
+Government of Buenos Aires, but in 1833 a British man-of-war was sent
+to enforce England’s rights, and since 1843 the Falklands have been
+constituted a Crown colony. For further details I refer the reader
+to Darwin’s journals, as well as to a paper read by the present
+governor, Mr. W. L. Allardyce, C.M.G., at the meeting of the Royal
+Colonial Institute, March 22, 1910. During the last days of our stay
+in Port Stanley everybody was walking about rife with expectation.
+A man-of-war, H.M.S. _Sappho_, was due, and from the camp the young
+ladies came to the town prepared for a dance or a picnic. Some years
+ago a man-of-war used to be stationed in Stanley for several months
+every year, and opposite the town expensive constructions were made, a
+dock was built, and large coal-sheds erected. But hardly was it ready
+when the whole scheme was abandoned, even the stationed vessel being
+withdrawn, much to the grief of the Stanley girls.
+
+At last the _Sappho_ came, but by this time our period of rest had
+nearly elapsed. Halle returned from Darwin, we had to prepare our heavy
+luggage, and when the _Oronsa_ let her sonorous voice be heard she
+found us ready. On February 12, a bright summer day, the barren coasts
+of the Falkland Islands disappeared from our sight--perhaps for ever.
+
+The big steamer hastened westward, and soon the lights at the Magellan
+Straits twinkled in the twilight. As we approached Punta Arenas the sky
+shone bright red, and with the glasses we soon found out the reason:
+the forest south of the town was on fire; it made a mighty lighthouse
+that showed us the way to the roads, where we anchored at 1 A.M. on
+February 14.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+IN TIERRA DEL FUEGO
+
+
+In front of us stretches the long, yellow, sandy sea-shore, with
+slender jetties running far out into the shallow water; in the
+background rises the land, with forest-clad ridges and hills. Between
+the forests and the sea extends Punta Arenas, the town of the Magellan
+territories, a good type of mushroom city with a startling story
+of development behind it. In the last ten years its population has
+greatly increased, and more than 12,000 people now have their home
+there--Chileans and Spaniards, Germans and Englishmen, Frenchmen and
+Italians, Swedes, Norwegians, Danes, Russians, Austrians--a babel of
+tongues. Pretentious stone buildings, interspersed with corrugated-iron
+houses, dozens of hotels and American bars, howling gramophones, the
+rattling of cocktails in the mixing--that is the first impression. We
+take up our quarters in the traditional retreat for Swedish scientists,
+the Kosmos Hotel, a low, white-plastered building on the sandy beach.
+
+[Illustration: THE ROADS OF PUNTA ARENAS, SOUTH-WESTER BLOWING.]
+
+[Illustration: PUNTA ARENAS FROM THE HILLS.]
+
+We now found ourselves under changed conditions and with a
+starting-point for our work where we knew nobody and where we had to
+do with authorities speaking a language not very familiar to us. I had
+almost expected that Quensel would be back from his survey of the
+interior of South Patagonia, but there was not even a message from
+him. Neither had we received any reply from the Chilean Government,
+and the entire future of our expedition would possibly depend upon
+their answer. So we started at once with short excursions in the
+neighbourhood; Halle found a vast field for work in the coal-mines in
+the narrow valley of Rio de las Minas. A few days after our arrival
+we had just returned home when our landlord, the ever kindly and
+good-humoured Brockow, told us that a Swedish gentleman had just
+arrived and wanted to make our acquaintance. Judge of my astonishment
+when we found him to be the highest representative of Sweden in Chile,
+Consul-General A. Löwenborg, who had employed a short period of leisure
+in running down to Punta Arenas in order to welcome us and render us
+assistance in our dealings with the authorities. I know that if I now
+tell him that we shall never be able to thank him sufficiently for all
+he did for our expedition during its work in South America, or for the
+hearty personal friendship he showed us, I do not say too much.
+
+Now we could begin preparations for our first excursion in real
+earnest. The governor of the territory, Señor Chaigneau, received us
+with great courtesy, and Mr. Löwenborg brought the answer from the
+Government that the naval station in Punta Arenas had already received
+orders to do everything possible to promote our success. The chief,
+Rear-Admiral B. Rojas, put the small steamer _Huemul_ at our disposal
+for the first voyage--to Admiralty Inlet, in Tierra del Fuego.
+
+These preparations having been made, we completed our party. We were
+sitting at the dinner-table one evening when a wild, red-bearded
+camp-man entered the dining-room in the Kosmos; it was Quensel; and
+we instantly followed him out to the courtyard, where his servant for
+the summer, the German Albert Pagels, was busy unsaddling the horses.
+In the most glowing terms they gave us a brief description of their
+travels in the most remote part of the South Patagonian Alps, so
+prolific in results that from that moment I longed to go there myself,
+but entertained little or no hope of being able to do so, as this lay
+beyond our original scheme.
+
+Now we could make ready. The horses were sent to a paddock, we
+bought hay, maize, and provisions, and looked over and completed
+our equipment; for once alone in a virgin country nothing could be
+procured. When I had discussed Pagels’ qualifications with Quensel, I
+engaged him for the trip, and asked him to bring another man with him,
+and as a result a fellow with the not particularly uncommon name of
+Müller joined our party.
+
+Now follows a hurry and a scurry and a sorting of half-packed boxes!
+Is nothing forgotten? The _Huemul_ is waiting at one of the jetties,
+the last nails are driven into the lids of our boxes, and finally the
+cart jolts over the bumpy streets of Punta Arenas. All of us work like
+niggers; bags of maize, bales of hay, and boxes of all shapes and sizes
+are taken on board. Now only the most difficult affair is left--the
+embarkation of the horses. We tried various devices, but at last found
+that the only way was to use the derrick on the jetty. A lifebelt of
+special construction was employed, and wild with terror the animals
+were hauled swinging and kicking high up in the air, to land safe and
+sound on deck. We felt easy when all four had been transferred, but
+there was not much left of the limited deck space.
+
+As Punta Arenas is a town full of temptations, we went on board in
+the evening in order to be quite sure of getting off early the next
+morning. At daybreak, February 25, our vessel left the roadstead. Our
+first visit was to Dawson Island, where the Roman Catholic Salesian
+mission station has long been established. They have partly converted
+the land into a sheep-farm, with Indians as labourers. The station in
+Harris Bay is an imposing collection of buildings. We went on shore,
+and were very well received by the missionary, a stout and shining
+_padre_. He had already found time to send the boys to make themselves
+presentable, and they appeared in more or less queer dresses, but
+looking rather well-brought-up. Few of them were pure Indians: mostly
+they betrayed a rather mixed origin, a fact perhaps somewhat remarkable
+at a mission station! Under the guidance of the missionary we went
+round the place, inspecting the church bedecked with cheap finery, the
+school, the small saw-mill, and so on. Certainly they have seen to it
+that the hitherto empty life of the natives shall find a real object
+and meaning. One thing, however, is of little account--the Indians
+themselves. According to what the bishop in Punta Arenas, Monseñor
+Fagnano, told me, there are only forty-five in the station, most of
+them Onas, but there are also some Yahgans and Alookoloop. The number
+is gradually diminishing. It is the old story; the natives are subdued
+or won over, put into clothes, forced to live in houses, and turned
+into labourers; in some cases perhaps their life gets easier, but with
+the kind of civilization imposed on them, absurd and more than shallow,
+there follow diseases and a misery unknown before. What the naked
+Indians can stand is too much for Indians in European clothes; they
+pine away and die in “the true faith.” But perhaps there dwells in the
+depths of their expiring souls a question never uttered: “What have
+we done that we should be taken away from our land, that we should be
+exterminated from the face of earth?” How many of them there are who
+really consider themselves indemnified by the liberal and, alas! cheap
+promises of a place in the special heaven of the Church that “rescued”
+them I cannot tell. But how men can imagine that by putting people
+whose mental life has proved to be so little developed and so utterly
+different from our own on the seats in church and in school they can
+be got to grasp those intricate dogmas that have caused and still
+cause so much hatred and dissension amongst ourselves--that I confess
+myself unable to understand. I should, indeed, like to hear a religious
+dispute between a Lutheran and a Catholic Ona-Indian!
+
+To-day there is much spoken and written about the necessity of
+preserving natural scenery, rare animals, &c., and all naturalists
+encourage the general tendency which has already evoked special laws in
+various States. But we seem to think more of remarkable animals than of
+human races. Could we not at least refrain from directly preventing
+the continued existence of interesting forms of _Homo sapiens_?
+
+Most of the male inhabitants of Dawson Island were away working in
+the camp, and we only saw some sick or feeble ones, who were seated
+outside their doors making Indian curiosities, to be sold by the
+missionaries in Punta Arenas. In a special house the women were
+occupied in spinning. The camera was familiar to them all, and with
+the aid of the missionary I was able to take a group, but it was more
+difficult to obtain permission to snap them in the costume of Adam.
+However, I managed to take photographs of an old married couple of
+Alookoloop, but they anxiously asked me not to show them to anybody.
+_Cuisc-shiku-toreluk-scisc_, my good fellow, your brown skin still
+glistened under the miserable rags you wore, besmeared as it was with
+stinking grease, that called forth old remembrances! Have you then
+forgotten that you are baptized and call yourself Brasito and that it
+is strictly forbidden to practise such uncivilized customs?
+
+I asked them in Spanish, a language their tongues convert into a
+scarcely intelligible lingo, how their lives pleased them and where
+they came from. “She comes from afar,” the husband says, pointing
+to his wife. “From the channels far west?” She nods assent, and
+adds: “There we were so many, so many, and now”--her voice expresses
+desperation and helplessness--“all dead, all dead!...”
+
+But all round us in the forest dozens of images and pictures of saints
+bear witness to the triumph of Christian civilization.
+
+A fresh breeze met us when we steamed out of the mission bay, and
+the _Huemul_ rolled with might and main. Our horses had some very
+disagreeable hours; they were not far from falling overboard, or at
+least getting injured. After a short consultation we resolved to seek
+shelter from the rapidly increasing gale. There are very few harbours
+in Admiralty Inlet, and probably none better than Puerto Gomez, where
+we anchored; a true Fuegian cove, with the water-soaked virgin forest
+coming down to the water’s edge, with steep, wooded ridges all round
+and snowy peaks in the background. The autumn scarcely shows its
+presence here, only the grass on the beach is more yellow than usual,
+but the forest itself stands as fresh and green as ever, even if the
+few flowers are still fewer. That day the winter sent us its first
+warnings, and we awoke to a splendid though hardly welcome sight: the
+summits shining white, the ridges powdered with snow, and a light
+cover on the branches of the evergreens down by the beach. But the
+squalls grew less frequent, the sun spread broader and broader golden
+stripes over the bank of clouds, and once more we tried our fortune
+afloat. Halle and I inhaled this fresh atmosphere in deep draughts. The
+enviable Quensel had just come from Payne, but we who saw only dirty
+colours in the Falklands thoroughly enjoyed the black mountains, the
+white snow, and the bluish ice of the glaciers. Farther and farther
+into the deep fiord we steamed, the mountains closed round us on each
+side, and in the innermost corner, called Hope Bay on the Admiralty
+chart, a pretty place where deciduous-leaved forest patches shimmer
+in the first crimson of autumn, the _Huemul_ anchored.
+
+[Illustration: BACK FROM THE BETBEDER PASS.
+
+SKOTTSBERG IN MIDDLE, QUENSEL TO LEFT, PAGELS TO RIGHT.]
+
+[Illustration: INDIANS AT THE DAWSON MISSION STATION.]
+
+First we had to bring the horses ashore. Here luck helped us in a
+peculiar manner. Outside Dawson Island we found a lighter adrift, a
+runaway from Punta Arenas, and it came as though sent on purpose. The
+animals were lowered down from the davits, once more half dead with
+fright, but soon recovered when they found the good pasture along the
+shore. Our equipment was put in a heap on the shingle, and we set out
+to look for a comfortable camping-place, and soon found an inviting
+corner on the edge of the wood. Instantly we pitched our tents and
+hoisted our little Swedish flag. At the request of our friend Captain
+Mayer we returned on board, had our dinner with the officers, and slept
+there. Early on the 28th the _Huemul_ steamed out of the bay, hooted us
+a good-bye, and was soon out of sight. We were left to ourselves for a
+month.
+
+But we had not yet reached our goal. Towards the east we had to follow
+the valley of Rio Azopardo, and there, behind the woods, is the big
+lake, Lago Fagnano. The distance is only eight miles, but these few
+miles have a very bad reputation. Some remarks on explorations prior to
+our own might be mentioned here. The first proper description of the
+lake and its surroundings we owe to the well-known Boundary Commission
+of Chile and Argentina, which finished its work here in 1895, and
+had then erected a cairn at each edge of the lake to indicate the
+boundary-line; the members had also effected some boat-journeys and had
+constructed a map. The natural history still remained unknown, and
+the Swedish expedition in 1896 under O. Nordenskjöld resolved to pay a
+visit to the big lake. He and his companions had their encampment not
+very far from ours, and we found some traces left by them and others of
+the Boundary Commission; especially a wooden corral, which we put in
+order and used ourselves.
+
+Nordenskjöld was only provided with food for a fortnight; he brought
+many people with him, and a rather big boat, intended for the
+navigation of the Rio Azopardo. This, however, proved impossible, and
+he was never able to make a camp on the lake. Accompanied by one man,
+he made an excursion on foot, crossed the valley of Rio Betbeder, and
+saw from the slope of a mountain, probably Cerro Verde, that a pass
+over the main ridge, called Sierra Valdivieso on the Chilean map, very
+likely existed. The pass itself can hardly have been visible from the
+spot where he stood. Of the nature of the lake this expedition has very
+little to tell: Nordenskjöld alone got close to it.
+
+In October 1902 J. G. Andersson, well known as a member of the Swedish
+Antarctic Expedition and the leader of its winter-journeys, managed to
+reach the eastern end of the lake, using a road cut through the forest
+by the brothers Bridges of Harberton, a track that united their vast
+camp at the Beagle Channel with that on the Atlantic coast. He brought
+a small canvas boat and made some zoological collections from the
+lake, but everything got lost in the shipwreck of the _Antarctic_, in
+February 1903. Consequently we had an open field for work; but time was
+valuable, as the winter might come any day. I think that autumn is the
+best season for travelling in the interior of Tierra del Fuego; summer
+has dried the innumerable bogs and made them to some extent passable,
+and the rivers, that all come from the eternal ice and snow, do not
+carry as much water as they do earlier in the year.
+
+We set to work without a moment’s delay. One of the officers on board
+the _Huemul_ had told us that some of those indefatigable prospectors
+had left some sheep on a small island not far from our camp, and we
+sent Pagels there with our canvas boat (on the Berthon system), which
+was now launched for the first time. Müller was left at the tents, and
+we started on foot up the Azopardo valley in order to survey a suitable
+track for the horses. We only carried a couple of ship’s biscuits each
+for provisions. The first mile did not look very bad. It was, however,
+impossible to follow the bank of the river, as it is covered by an
+almost impenetrable brushwood of _Nothofagus antarctica_, one of the
+Antarctic beeches (ñire). We followed the slopes of a mountain-ridge
+south of the valley; sometimes the ground seemed very dry and firm,
+sometimes we had to walk knee-deep through red and greenish-white
+peat-moss. Now and then we came across a forest patch where we had
+a hard struggle with innumerable fallen trunks, marshy places, and
+thorny bushes. But we thought that an axe might open a way for horses,
+especially along the guanaco tracks. Arriving at the top of a hill,
+we stopped in mute admiration. There between steep mountain-chains
+we beheld for the first time Lago Fagnano in the far east, melting
+together with sky and mountains in a blue haze. It was still early in
+the day, and in spite of our meagre supply of provisions we resolved to
+continue our march down to the lake. And we had good luck. We were just
+climbing the barranca of Rio Mascarello when we discovered a guanaco
+not more than ninety feet from us, grazing in unconscious security.
+We had not been observed, and a ball from our Winchester sent it into
+eternity. The meat was certainly very welcome. We had counted on living
+upon game, and had only brought some preserved meat for excursions. The
+big steaks were greeted with applause; one piece we put in a knapsack
+for dinner, and the rest was fixed on a tree out of reach of foxes and
+birds.
+
+The guanaco (_Auchenia huanaco_) is closely related to the lama. When
+with straightened neck it slowly turns its small, elegant head, pricks
+up its ears, scenting danger, it makes a very pleasing impression of
+something at the same time strong, swift, and graceful. The nose is
+grey, the back covered with a reddish-brown wool, the throat and belly
+white. The thighs are red-brown, the legs white. Smaller or larger
+herds wander about in Tierra del Fuego and Patagonia, mostly on the
+pampas, but also at the edge of the forest-zone on the slopes of the
+Cordillera, where green patches and rich Alpine meadows are their
+favourite grounds.
+
+We had already passed several “pantanos” (peat-bogs), with red,
+swelling tussocks sharply contrasting with the dark-green forest
+patches, but we now came to that part of the valley where all the open
+spaces are filled with marshy ground. We could cross all right if we
+chose our way, but we at once realized that the horses would never
+follow our example. Here the forest gets still worse, the river runs
+close to the mountains, only leaving a very narrow space. To cut our
+way round bogs and forest higher up on the slope was not to be thought
+of, and further progress looked doubtful. But it was better here and
+there, and we felt hopeful till we came to the last mile. No horse
+would ever come through that; we should have to carry our own luggage.
+
+We stood on the shore of Lago Fagnano. This fact did not elate us
+unduly; it was simple enough to walk there; but the thought that we had
+reached our longed-for lake on the same day as we landed afforded us
+some amusement. With gathered driftwood we made a good fire and dried
+our clothes. Fixed on a stick, the guanaco meat soon became a regular
+“asado” that tasted very good, with a biscuit and water from the lake.
+A few yards from the shore we found a suitable place for the night in
+a grove of _Nothofagus betuloides_ (coiguë), the evergreen Antarctic
+beech, and beautiful Winter’s bark (_Drimys Winteri_), and we made
+our beds of fragrant branches round a roaring fire that sent showers
+of sparks through the dark night. The sky was clear and cold, but we
+maintained the fire and slept well for a while with the knapsack as
+pillow. We had not brought our sleeping-bags.
+
+The ground was covered with hoar-frost when at dawn we crept out of
+our nest. After eating the last piece of biscuit we walked back to our
+camp, keeping a desultory look-out for new tracks for the horses. How
+inviting the camp looks on our return! the tents shining white at the
+forest’s edge, in the pots our dinner cooking with a cheerful sound,
+and at a little distance our horses grazing peacefully! Is there a
+truer sense of happiness and freedom than when the tent or the sky is
+your roof, the ground your bed, the camp-fire your hearth? In front
+of us, on the other side of the fiord, Mount Hope raises its jagged
+porphyritic mass, and icy crests peep forth behind it. The sun beams
+from a clear blue sky--it is still summer in Tierra del Fuego.
+
+Pagels had not seen any sheep, but had shot some kelp-geese
+(_Chloëphaga hybrida_), which, however, are generally considered as
+inedible. We had not been able to find our store of guanaco again
+when we returned from the lake, so, untroubled by a belief in the
+omniscience of authorities, we prepared the disdained geese and ate
+heartily of the dish.
+
+The first day of March was occupied by Halle and myself in a survey
+of the valley of Rio Fontaine, which discharges into Admiralty Inlet.
+Its nature closely resembles that of the Azopardo valley. Quensel and
+Pagels went to look for the guanaco meat and found it. In the evening
+we collected all the things to be brought up to the lake with the
+first transport, and at night everything was ready. One of the horses
+had been injured in landing, but the rest were saddled early the next
+morning, and the first caravan, under the direction of Quensel, soon
+disappeared among the hills. The next day Halle and I made an ascent
+of a mountain behind our camp. The worst part of a Fuegian mountain
+is the forest belt, but sometimes one may get help from the winding
+paths of the guanacos. Thence one wanders free and happy over meadows
+adorned with flowers or across slopes of rattling stones, where small
+herds of guanacos with elegant tails gallop away, neighing merrily.
+From a summit we had a very fine view of the lake and the surrounding
+landscape. As we were studying it through the glasses we discovered
+some black specks at the bottom of the valley--the caravan coming
+back--one, two, three men, one, two, three horses. Good! At once we
+hastened down to the camp, anxious to hear their experiences, in which
+truly the trip had been rich enough. The track surveyed by us was
+of little use--the dry ridges where we had walked so hopefully were
+covered by peat, hardened on the surface, but not strong enough to
+carry the weight of a horse. Each horse had nine times been bogged so
+badly that it had to be unloaded, dragged out of the peat, and loaded
+again--twenty-seven times altogether! After eight hours’ desperate
+effort a distance of four miles was covered, and the cargo had been
+deposited at the Mascarello river. Thus it was evident that we should
+have to carry all the luggage for the rest of the way. We hastily
+selected provisions for fifteen days, packed our 8-feet collapsible
+Berthon, and divided everything into two horse-loads, as one of the
+horses had proved unfit for transport of that sort. The rest was put
+together in a depot, and early on the 5th we struck camp.
+
+We advanced slowly and without adventure till we had passed the first
+small tributary, when bad luck attended us. The horse with the boat
+and tents was badly bogged, capsized with his cargo, and lay groaning
+under the heavy load. To make matters worse, it happened on a steep
+slope, and we barely managed to save him from tumbling down into the
+river. Standing knee-deep in the loose peat, we unloaded him, turned
+him round, and got him on his feet again. He bled, but not very much.
+To give him the same load was impossible, as the ground grew worse
+still, but Müller and Pagels took the boat on their shoulders and
+continued the march. Now the horses had an easier march, but were of
+course bogged now and then. We dragged them across the worst places,
+one hauling at the cabresta, the two others walking by the side of the
+staggering animal supporting it. Nevertheless we got on, cheered the
+depot, and sent the horses back. I continued the way with our men,
+and we brought three loads up near to the lake. At nightfall we all
+gathered at Mascarello, and soon forgot our troubles round a mighty
+fire, although a treacherous trunk made me capsize the appetizing
+pea-soup, just as we were ready to devour it with the appetites of
+lions. Another spell of impatient waiting was spent in discussions of
+what the coming day might have in store for us. We all felt that now
+the real hardships were about to begin.
+
+The loads were distributed in a very simple manner. Everybody took as
+much as he could carry, and a procession of five individuals started.
+Progress is not rapid, the steep riverbanks make our knees bend and
+our backs ache, the sun broils us, impudent flies torment us. The
+conversation is not very lively. Somebody throws his burden down, the
+others follow his example; we straighten our backs, wipe our brows
+with dirty shirtsleeves, and fall flat on the ground; mechanically we
+chew a biscuit or a piece of chocolate--there is no time for dinner. Up
+again, through the thickets, where thorny bushes scratch our faces and
+bare arms, where every minute the load is caught in the dense branches,
+where mouldering trunks trip us up; through the bogs, where the oozing
+surface makes walking heavy work, through the ravines, where we _must_
+stop to drink the pure, cold water that comes directly from the melting
+snow. What delight when we catch a glimpse of the lake! With a sigh of
+relief we throw off our burdens on the shore. Here we found the boat
+and the flour-bag left on the previous day, and we pulled round a cape
+and landed in a sheltered bay, called Expedition’s Cove. We walked back
+again to Mascarello in order to make an early start the next morning.
+Some things were left there as a reserve depot, the rest we took on
+our shoulders and trod the same old wretched way again. Thus our camp
+at the lake became a reality, our first destination was settled; the
+Swedish colours floated in the heart of Tierra del Fuego.
+
+The tent door is wide open. In most cases the chilly mornings tempt
+us to enjoy the warm comfort of the sleeping-bag for another five
+minutes, but to-day it is not possible. Not a leaf moves. The lake lies
+shining like a mirror, only furrowed by a mated pair of patovapores
+(steamer-ducks or loggerheads, _Tachyeres cinereus_), that glide away
+chattering merrily. The mountains on either side rise clear and sharp
+against the sky, one behind the other like gigantic wings; close to us
+dark green with shades of red and violet, on the crests they gradually
+change into a bluish grey. In the background the rising sun over the
+water, a splendid white sun, promises us a magnificent day, sending us
+its greetings and illuminating every corner of our camp. Out from the
+bags, a speedy toilet, and as Pagels announces “Porridge is ready” we
+gather round the cauldron. Round the fireplace we put some big logs as
+sofas, make ourselves comfortable, and with often-repeated words of
+praise consume large quantities of oatmeal porridge and coffee with
+biscuits--and if three or four guanaco steaks should happen to go
+the same way, there is nothing to say against that. The work may be
+hard, but days like this make everything easy, mapping or geology or
+botany. The sunbeams play on the velvety moss-carpet, with infectious
+laughter the stream falls down the precipice. Can any but bright faces
+gather round the fire when twilight falls over Lake Fagnano? Fixed on
+a stick over the embers our asado is roasted, delicious enough to make
+one’s mouth water. The teapot sings, we light our pipes--this is the
+hour for stories. Pagels has an inexhaustible supply of stories from
+real life, for he has indeed seen a little of everything. What do you
+say to a fellow of thirty, who has been sailor in the German navy,
+boatswain, sealer, gold-digger, who has traversed half Patagonia on
+horseback, has smuggled troops into Central America, and assisted at
+the capture of Peking during the Boxer rebellion? He was indispensable
+on our boat-journeys, the type of Teutonic giant, used to all sorts of
+tricks on shore as well as on sea. Certainly he did not hide his light
+under a bushel. Sometimes he would make us half desperate with his
+patent dodges; he was always so absolutely sure that it wasn’t worth
+while to try any other method than his--that there could not exist a
+better! Müller, with his pale face fringed with a big black beard, was
+more timid, but when he loosened his tongue we soon found him to be a
+rather well-read man, who was up to date in many things, especially in
+politics. He had arrived from Brazil, shook his head at the Fuegian
+weather and pulled his cap over his ears. After dinner, just when we
+are ready to go to bed, he puts his private kettle on the fire and the
+_yerba_ or maté makes the round. Night has come; Prince, the expedition
+dog, is asleep with a guanaco bone, and the last embers show us our way
+to the tent.
+
+The first days we were very busy with detail-work in the vicinity of
+our cove. Halle made a map, Quensel studied the geology, and I myself
+made botanical excursions, tried the boat, and took soundings in the
+western corner of the lake. But we could not put off the excursion
+to the Betbeder passage over the mountains, to which I have alluded
+before, and on March 10 we started, Quensel, Pagels, and I. In our
+knapsacks we carried a pair of socks and provisions for four or five
+days; the sleeping-bags were tied to the sacks. After a hard climb
+up the slippery slopes, sometimes on our hands and knees, we reached
+a ridge, but the view to the main Cordillera was still shut off by
+several summits. To the left there was no way, to the right was a peak
+sloping sheer down to piles of sharp-edged slate-blocks. Pagels had
+hastened ahead, and shouted to us that he could see a way round the
+summit. With great care we groped round the precipitous wall, making
+use of fissures and narrow shelves that gave way under our weight, and
+after climbing some hundred feet more we finally reach the eternal
+snowfields at a height of about 3000 feet.
+
+We stopped here a while in order to get an idea of our position and to
+make up our minds how to continue. The view was certainly splendid. All
+round us bright green Alpine meadows, black _débris_ or white snow,
+below the small characteristic valley-basins, sometimes occupied by a
+small glacier or furrowed by icy brooks, surrounded by an emerald-green
+moss-carpet and the last flowers of autumn. If we compare the Alpine
+flora of Tierra del Fuego with, for instance, that of Europe, the
+former without doubt is left far behind, but nevertheless it has the
+same peculiar stamp, the same gay colours. Our looks sweep over the
+plateaus; not far from us our destination, Sierra Valdivieso, rises,
+and in the distance the summits of Darwin Mountains, one of the highest
+parts of Tierra del Fuego, shine like diamonds. Silence and desolation
+reign over this height; only a single guanaco neighs and takes to
+flight, and a condor majestically soars over our heads.
+
+As to the direction in which we should find the pass the maps had
+misled us; we had made a long _détour_ and the day’s labour had partly
+been thrown away. We were forced to climb down into the Betbeder
+valley and follow it up to the pass. Without hesitation we left the
+mountains and dived into the brushwood. I think that we shall not
+easily forget this expedition. The tough branches clung round legs and
+arms, and only after we had lost our patience did we really make any
+progress. The mountain-wall falls off nearly at right angles; when the
+hands grasped for the branches the legs touched the heads of other
+trees beneath, and more like monkeys than human beings, dirty and
+soaked, we reached the yellowish-brown bogs in the valley. We found a
+dry hillock with a nice carpet of diddledee (_Empetrum rubrum_), and
+spread out our sleeping-bags there.
+
+The night was chilly, but we awoke to another fine day, and porridge
+and coffee soon put new life into us. The way was always more or less
+wretched; several streams with ice-cold water were crossed without
+ceremony: we emptied our boots, wrung our socks out, put them on again,
+and were all right. Some stretches were covered by tall forests of
+“roble” (down here _Nothofagus pumilio_). Several times we crossed the
+Rio Betbeder, making use of fallen trunks as natural bridges. By-and-by
+we climbed upwards with the valley, and soon beheld a beautiful
+mountain, called by us Cerro Svea; most interesting as differing
+widely in geological features from the surrounding country. The river
+disappeared in a deep gorge, but we struck it again, and were able to
+follow it with the eyes up to a glacier with beautiful edge moraines
+on Mount Svea, whence most of the water comes. We crossed the river
+for the last time, worked our way through the belt of brushwood, and
+found an open space big enough for our bags and comparatively dry. As
+we had three hours left before nightfall, Quensel and I at once climbed
+the ridge behind us in order to look for the pass. Being hard up for
+meat, we had brought the Winchester, and came across a small herd of
+guanacos at a height of about 2500 feet. They were too far off, and we
+started to stalk them; perhaps we should have been successful had not
+the mountain-fog, thick and impenetrable, come down upon us, and with
+it a snowstorm. From a crest at about 3300 feet we saw the herd hurry
+away down towards the valley on the other side of the pass. But we had
+also seen something else before the foggy wall shut out everything
+round us. Beneath our feet stretched an unknown valley, red, brown, and
+yellow like the Betbeder valley, and in numerous serpentines a river
+wound through the peat-bogs, coming from the glaciers on the south side
+of Mount Svea, while in a side valley we perceived a small mountain
+lake that discharged into the river. Then the curtain fell; violent
+snow-squalls forced us to return, and, groping in the _débris_, half
+blind with the snow, we came down to the fire with the night. Snow
+continued to fall, but supper tasted better than ever, and the flakes
+quickly melted in the hot cocoa. Later the sky cleared, Cross and
+Centaur glittered. “We’ll have a dry night,” we said, and crept into
+the bags.
+
+[Illustration: THE BETBEDER VALLEY.]
+
+[Illustration: MOUNT SVEA, WITH GLACIER AND MORAINES.]
+
+It was a strange awakening. Certainly I had felt, half asleep, that
+the bag was growing heavier and that water was trickling in from the
+“pillow” (my coat and trousers), but I shook off the snow, pulled the
+hood tighter round my head and slept again. I jumped up on hearing
+Pagels’ “Aber, Herr Doktor,” and looked round. The landscape had
+changed. Certainly Mount Svea had been white and glistening before, but
+now--here was winter. All round us everything was white and clean. The
+sleeping-bag was covered two inches deep, more or less, our boots had
+disappeared, our clothes were soaked. It was not especially agreeable
+to put them on, but there was no help for it. The fire half dried us,
+and then we had breakfast.
+
+The sky is blue, the sun is already melting the snow, no time must be
+lost. Pagels was sent to shoot a guanaco--Prince had not had anything
+to eat since we left Lake Fagnano. Quensel and I walked to the pass and
+down along the slopes of the new valley; the river we named Rio Rojas,
+after the admiral in Punta Arenas; it is the same river that discharges
+into Lake Acigami near the Beagle Channel. The new lake was named
+Laguna Löwenborg. Probably we were the first white men here. We have
+been told that in old times Indians used to cross the mountains from
+Azopardo to the Beagle Channel, but we do not know if this be true or
+not; if so, they would have used our pass, Paso de las Lagunas, as we
+call it. Its height above sea-level is about 2100 feet. It was a matter
+of some disappointment that we did not see the Beagle Channel. Pagels
+had followed the other side of the valley, climbed a peak, and saw
+from there two sheets of water. To judge from his description one of
+them was Yendagaia, the other the Beagle Channel itself. Moreover, he
+brought back the best pieces of two guanacos; and Prince could hardly
+walk back to the camp, so much had he devoured!
+
+The weather had changed once more. It did not snow, but rained hard
+instead; however, we resolved to stop one day more, provided that
+the sky was clear enough. The next day opened with mist and rain,
+so we could do nothing but return. It did not matter much that the
+rain poured down; we were as wet as we could possibly be, and only
+the interior of our sleeping-bags was still dry. It was not easy to
+find a dry spot for the night’s camp, and still less easy to make a
+fire. But after an hour’s work we had a nice blaze. It rained all
+night and all the next day, but we went on. The forest seemed denser
+than ever, the streams were swollen and rapid, and we felt it a
+relief to wade through the open bogs along Rio Betbeder down to the
+lake. In the camp everything was in perfect order. Halle was ready to
+undertake the proposed trip across the mountains north of Fagnano and
+down to Lake Deseado; and accompanied by Müller he set out over the
+lake to a suitable starting-place. Pagels and I were busy preparing
+for a boat-trip, and early on the 16th we loaded the cargo. When
+everything was on board, the rifle, provisions, sounding-lines, nets,
+sleeping-bags, &c., we had so little room left for ourselves that we
+had to sit very uncomfortably. From the shore we had seen some small
+islands; we set our course for them, and found them interesting enough,
+as they showed beautiful traces of the glacial age in the form of
+moraines, erratic blocks, and polished stones. The direction of the
+morainic ridges and the origin of the blocks showed to a certainty
+that the ice had moved west-eastward here. Later in the day I found
+new proofs, and with regard to plant geography, a subject I desired to
+study more specially, I had a rare chance of following step by step
+the gradual change of evergreen into deciduous forest. At 3 P.M. we
+passed the remnants of a cairn with a tripod of rough sticks on the top
+of it: we were now in Argentina! Now and then an inquisitive guanaco
+looked at us from the forest’s edge, but soon withdrew, and flocks
+of screaming paroquets flew among the heads of the roble-trees. But
+no trace whatever of Ona Indians was to be seen. A small forest-clad
+island appeared to us a suitable camping-place, and at nightfall we
+landed with great care.
+
+Good luck was almost necessary for us. Only for a few days in the
+month is Lake Fagnano calm; generally a fresh westerly breeze keeps up
+a heavy sea. The lake is about fifty-six miles long, and we had now
+covered one-fourth of that distance. Another nice day and we should
+have done our work.
+
+Through the canvas and blanket I heard a soft murmur--only a little
+breeze--and we breakfasted with strong hopes for a good day. But we
+were greatly deceived. The wind increased, and when we finished our
+meal there were already white crests on the billows. The sky promised
+a gale, but as we did not want to be idle we pulled across to the
+shore, where we strolled about along the beach. We returned at the last
+moment and got some water in before we reached our island. I had plenty
+of time to survey our position. Seldom was the impression of virgin
+ground so strong as here. No guanacos ever come there; the grass is
+_never_ grazed upon, but grows in enormous beds where one sinks down
+to the knees through piles of dry blades. Several plants that were
+quite familiar to me in other places here grew to a gigantic size and
+were hardly to be recognised. What a difference between this place and
+the Azopardo valley! We are in the zone of the _roble_: the dense,
+dark-green groves with the thick, water-soaked carpet of mosses and
+liverworts has disappeared; so has also “canelo,” or Winter’s bark, one
+of Flora’s most beautiful children in the far south. The forest is dry,
+the green colours bright; dry is the moss-carpet, and out of the thick
+layer of fallen leaves slender forest herbs peep forth. Our island is
+a little paradise, but nevertheless we want to take leave of it as
+soon as possible. All day passed, and all night it blew hard enough to
+make the big trees wave and groan; in the morning the sea ran as heavy
+as before. The situation became still less pleasant. The next day we
+expected Halle back, and he could not reach the tents without a boat.
+Our provisions were almost finished, and we found nothing to shoot. We
+looked for berries, and found “calafate” (_Berberis buxifolia_) and
+“chaura” (_Pernettya mucronata_); we had also some biscuits left.
+
+Suddenly the wind died away. It was already late, 5 P.M., but we did
+not linger a moment, loaded the boat and left the island. Our little
+nutshell quite disappeared in the troughs of the waves. We could not go
+further east--probably the next day would bring us a strong head-wind
+on our return. We crossed the lake and were just close to the northern
+shore when we caught sight of a tiny column of smoke rising out of the
+forest--Indians, some of the last families still living the old life.
+However, we could not stop, but preferred to take advantage of the fine
+weather. The night was very dark; we made only one halt, at a place
+where Indians had had their camp long ago, as the guanaco bones gave
+evidence.
+
+On our return we sounded and got our greatest depth, seventy fathoms,
+close to the island. A series of soundings show that the bottom slopes
+gradually to the east; the deepest part is probably west of the middle.
+Early in the morning we were back “home,” where Quensel and Prince
+received us. Halle had not shown any sign of return, but his signal
+came later in the day, and Pagels was sent with the boat to fetch him.
+He had penetrated to the mountains north of Lake Deseado; no natives
+were seen, but otherwise he had had a bad time. The comparisons Müller
+made between Brazil and Tierra del Fuego were not in favour of the
+last-mentioned country.
+
+We had reason to be contented that we were all back, for the same day
+a storm came on, the end of which we hardly saw. The last excursions
+were done with the rain pouring down. The _Huemul_ was expected on
+the 25th, and three days earlier we struck camp. The cargo was, of
+course, not so large; no provisions were left; and, besides, Pagels
+undertook to pull the boat with some less fragile things down Rio
+Azopardo, in spite of the rapids. Quensel had to follow alongside the
+river and give Pagels a hand with the landings. The rest of us divided
+what was left of our equipment and set out. I believe we never worked
+so hard before. I shall not try the reader’s patience with another
+detailed description: let it be sufficient to remark that the bogs
+were frightful after the severe rainfalls, that we were often stuck,
+while a never-ceasing rain increased the weight of our load at every
+minute. Soaked to the skin and without the possibility of getting dry
+clothes, we reached the depot at Mascarello, and after a while Pagels
+and Quensel also came in. They had managed their business well enough;
+only once the boat had struck a rock in one of the rapids and filled
+with water, and some things belonging to the cargo were carried away
+for ever by the current. But Pagels reached the shore before the little
+craft sank. They told us that the boat was on the shore at the foot of
+a barranca, where it would be impossible to pull through the cañon, as
+the place must be described as really dangerous. As the barranca was
+very steep they could not carry the boat without help, so we all went
+to the river, and found the place so steep that we had to slide down to
+the water, grasping the roots of the trees or whatever else we could
+get hold of. We transported everything past the rapids, and managed
+to fix the boat behind some bushes that kept it from falling into the
+river, and the other things were hidden as well as we could hide them.
+But evidently we had not been careful enough, for when our “sailors”
+returned the following day they missed several things, amongst them
+all our supply of meat; clearly the foxes had been there and done good
+business.
+
+Halle and I made no haste, but waited till the rain had ceased a
+little, packed our cargo, and waded through the clay down the
+river. But there we stopped. Was this our old innocent Mascarello? A
+yellowish stream whirled along the stony, invisible bed! I tried to
+cross, but close to the shore the water reached high upon my thighs,
+so we could not venture with our heavy cargo in the rapid current. We
+waited a while, and divided the last piece of meat between us. Only
+a few handfuls of flour were left of the provisions, and I resolved
+to risk baking it in the frying-pan. I made proper dough with some
+baking-powder, greased the pan with the last dirty grease left, put a
+lid on, and covered it with hot cinders. We waited anxiously, but when
+I appeared with delicious bread my triumph was complete; it tasted
+excellent. In vain we surveyed the river down to its junction with Rio
+Azopardo; nowhere did we find a place where we could cross it, and we
+had to stop another night in our wet clothes. It rained all the time,
+but we were happy to get a cold morning, that made the water-level
+in these glacier streams sink rapidly. We crossed without delay, the
+rain ceased, and a fresh gale soon dried our clothes. We could hardly
+recognise our old place at Hope Bay. The forest was changed into a
+swamp, and the beautiful open space where we had pitched the tents was
+a lake; the taste of the water plainly showed that the sea too had
+penetrated hither during our absence. Luckily enough we had placed our
+depot above this unsuspected flood. We soon found a new place. Halle
+and I, who arrived first, at once set to work to pitch the tents, when
+suddenly a signal announced the arrival of the _Huemul_. The officers
+came ashore, anxious to get news; we could not promise to be ready
+that same day, there being still things left in the depot at Mascarello.
+
+Quensel and Pagels arrived with the boat. Müller, who had fallen
+behind, and, according to his custom, also got lost, finally appeared,
+and we were gathered round the fire occupied in devouring the
+delicacies left in the depot when a message came from the _Huemul_
+telling us that she had damaged her engines and wanted to repair. As
+Hope Bay is anything but sheltered, she had to leave us once more, but
+the captain promised to be back on the 26th. He went to Puerto Gomez.
+We were very glad to get another day, as the horses only came half-way
+to Mascarello, and for the rest the things left there had to be carried.
+
+In due time the _Huemul_ arrived. Well-known, dark clouds appeared on
+the sky, and made us hurry up as much as possible. The horses had to
+swim, and two of them came on board quite exhausted. And we did not
+embark without adventure. We were just on our way to the ship with a
+large, heavy boat, the cargo being so bulky that only two oars could
+be used, when suddenly a heavy squall came on. We were ten minutes
+off from the vessel, but were driven back in spite of our energetic
+efforts, and almost before we knew it we were among the breakers on
+the shore. We had no choice; we jumped into the water, passed the
+things along, and pulled up the boat. On board they grew anxious and
+blew the whistle, but we could do nothing but wait. At last we took an
+opportunity between two squalls; standing in the water to our waists we
+loaded the boat, got out of the heavy surf, and came on board. But we
+were so delayed that we stopped the night where we were.
+
+On March 27 we saluted Hope Bay and proceeded westward, but did not
+get out of the inlet. A head-wind and a heavy sea showed us that it
+would be too much for our poor horses, so we sought shelter once more
+in Puerto Gomez. Here a little scene happened that I often recall to
+memory and will not keep from my readers. In Punta Arenas the cabin-boy
+had smuggled on board some nasty stuff, I believe absinthe, which is
+strictly prohibited, and his friend the cook had got drunk. The captain
+tried and sentenced them without hesitation: they had to undress, and
+were thrown into the sea with a rope round the waist. In the ice-cold
+water they had an opportunity of repenting of their sins. This method
+was said to be as effective as it is simple.
+
+From Puerto Gomez we went straight to Punta Arenas, where we arrived on
+the 28th, and at once started to prepare for the next trip.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+OTWAY WATER AND SKYRING WATER
+
+
+During the Swedish South Polar Expedition of 1901-1903 the question of
+surveying the great Otway and Skyring Waters also had been discussed,
+but we could not proceed further. At that time the inner part of
+Skyring was completely unknown, and, as it later became evident, a
+geographical discovery of great importance was in store. Already,
+before the outburst of the great Peruvian War (1879) the Chilean
+Government had started a survey, but the war put a stop to all work
+of that kind, and it happened that a long period elapsed before a new
+investigation was undertaken. Not until 1902 did we get news from
+Skyring. Then, however, Captain Ismael Gajardo discovered the channel
+later named in his honour, a channel which unites Skyring Water with
+a bay from the Magellan Straits, the Xaultegua Gulf. Thus the “white
+spot” began to disappear, and in 1905 the Government published a new
+Admiralty chart of Otway and Skyring. But many scientific problems
+awaited solution, and, as far as we could, we wanted to contribute
+towards it. I submitted a scheme to Admiral Rojas, and, having gained
+his approval, we prepared for the new excursion. We were to use the
+same vessel, the _Huemul_, commanded by L. Diaz Palacios, captain in
+the navy. We engaged Pagels for this trip also. On April 11 we
+steamed out into the Straits. As a period of storm had prevailed for
+some days, we got a very heavy sea, which made the small ship roll in a
+most perilous manner; the clinometer indicated 33°, and I believe one
+seldom gets more. We remained on deck, enjoying the grand spectacle of
+a turbulent sea. At nightfall we reached the San Isidro Lighthouse,
+one of the very few down here. The morning was bright, and we weighed
+anchor early, but had not proceeded many miles before the storm
+recommenced. We could not venture to pass Cape Froward, but had to seek
+a harbour, where we stopped all day. Cape Froward, or Forward, is the
+southernmost point of the American continent. Here the heavy seas from
+the strait and from Magdalena Channel meet, and here, too, is the limit
+between the April weather of the east and the west’s rainy mist, dense
+as a wall. The point also is of appropriate shape; it lies like a big
+clenched fist. Next day we rounded the cape and entered Jerome Channel,
+connecting Otway Water and the Straits. It is very grand scenery, and
+if you look at the west shore you will believe that you are in the
+Western Channels, with their high mountains, dark forest patches ending
+in snowfields, fine cascades, and waters, black and deep, close to the
+cliff.
+
+[Illustration: OTWAY AND SKYRING WATERS.]
+
+Our first station was Cutter Cove, where several years ago was found
+copper ore in considerable quantities, to work which a company
+was formed. Here we got a good idea of a rather tragic chapter of
+Patagonian history. Prospectors and mining engineers, often without
+the slightest right to such a title, collected like flies on a piece
+of sugar. Every day new people had mining claims granted to them; the
+deposits were described in glowing terms. At once people in America
+or Europe formed companies, sometimes with a big joint capital. The
+gold-fever raged, and it was taken for granted that immense riches
+_must_ exist in Patagonia! Engines and machinery were bought, houses
+built, and then the end came. For as soon as work was started one or
+another disagreeable discovery was made: the quantity of ore was too
+small, the quality inferior, or the methods unsuitable; and the company
+failed! Speaking of claims, I cannot help telling the following story.
+When we went to Admiralty Inlet, and the newspapers in Punta Arenas
+reported the fact, a poor fellow who had once prospected for gold there
+laid claim to a big piece of land, evidently dreading that we should
+get sight of his sleeping millions. The day after our departure his
+claims were published. Heaven knows what he had not found in the way of
+valuable things down there, all carefully enumerated. We do not envy
+him, however, for there was absolutely nothing there to speak of.
+
+After having visited some places on the south side of Otway Water, we
+crossed it in order to follow the north shore. The land here gradually
+rises towards the interior of Riesco Island; the slopes are clad with
+tall forests. In the south part it is covered by the evergreen trees
+that by-and-by are mingled with the light green roble (_Nothofagus
+pumilio_), which reigns alone for a short stretch. Where the water
+narrows to Fitzroy Channel the country once more changes its nature,
+and we are on the edge of the Patagonian pampa, where groves of _N.
+antarctica_ form a brushwood. Of course these changes depend upon the
+climatic conditions, especially the decreasing rainfall.
+
+At several places we saw traces of habitation. In one little snug
+harbour, surrounded by a beautiful forest, full of screaming paroquets,
+and with the wild fuchsia (_F. magellanica_) still in bloom, was a
+small abandoned saw-mill; at another place we saw human beings, who
+fled as soon as they caught sight of us. They must have had some reason
+to hide, and probably the uniforms of our naval officers frightened
+them.
+
+On April 16 we anchored at the entrance to Fitzroy Channel, connecting
+Otway and Skyring. It is a very narrow, shallow, and crooked passage,
+through which the tide rushes at a great speed. The passage entails
+innumerable changes of direction, soundings, and great caution. The
+shores are flat; we have entered the pampa zone, and find the outposts
+of civilisation on both sides. Los Amigos, where we had the doubtful
+pleasure of staying longer than we wished, can boast of two hotels,
+stores, an American bar, and a billiard saloon. We had some work to do
+there, as we made an interesting discovery of stratified clay from the
+glacial age, but when we were ready to leave, Skyring was not at all
+willing to welcome us, to judge from the south-westerly gale, which
+caused us to drag anchor more than once. We made an attempt to enter
+the open water, but encountered some heavy seas, that swept the whole
+vessel and led us to turn back. You must not forget that the _Huemul_
+only boasts 180 tons! Not until the 22nd could we repeat the attempt.
+The waves still swept over the decks, but the north coast afforded some
+shelter, and we cast anchor in Puerto Altamirano. We had gone westward
+again and back to the forest. Here lives the pioneer who has penetrated
+furthest west, a Frenchman, M. Guyon, in his lonely blockhouse. Here
+he has lived several years with his wife and his children, some
+hundreds of sheep, some cows and hens. The house looked poor, but
+clean, and the mistress made some nice coffee and showed us all the
+kindness she could, insisted on our taking the last raspberries in the
+garden, and finally made us a present of a fine head of cauliflower.
+Happy, contented people! We pressed their hands warmly when we said
+“Good-night” to them and “Good-bye” to houses and people.
+
+All traces of man have not disappeared, though they present themselves
+in a different way. It is a bright morning when we come pulling towards
+Isla Escarpada (_i.e._, the Precipitous Island) to look for a place to
+land. And lo! the cliff opens, we glide into a charming cove, where
+the waves break softly on the fine white sand, and on the shore is a
+confusion of green Winter’s bark, rich in foliage, and high-stemmed
+beeches, clothed with tiny mosses and thin, elegant hymenophyllums,
+thickets of fuchsia and large-fronded ferns. In this peaceful paradise
+stood the skeletons of two Indian huts; shells, bones of seals and
+birds proved that they had been inhabited not long ago. Could we only
+have called up the wretched brown figures, the picture would have been
+complete. This encounter with natives’ work put us in a reflective
+mood: here was a Nature, still virgin, with man as one of her numerous
+beings, not as the absolute master, and here we stood, members of the
+white race which makes all originality vanish under its hands.
+
+The landscape in the west part of Skyring has a great deal in common
+with the famous Patagonian Channels. Everywhere long, narrow inlets
+penetrate far into the Cordilleras. Some of them are extremely
+beautiful and exhibit the true fiord-nature, with the entrance barred
+by a threshold and deep water inside; but the steamer cannot enter,
+and one has to pull in in small yawls. For the most part the scenery
+is perhaps more sombre than grand. Generally heavy clouds rest on the
+black, splintered crests, so heavy that even the ice-fields lose their
+whiteness; the reddish bogs and the deep, dark forest patches, which
+cling to the steep cliffs and get thicker and closer towards the sea,
+becoming a solid, impenetrable covering to everything down to the water
+itself, make a solemn impression. You hardly hear a bird sing or an
+insect hum. But even here Nature may smile; when the sun rises over
+precipitous summits, that stand clear against the sky, and paints the
+forest with light green bands and the snowfields with pink; or when
+the midday light is reflected with the splendour of diamonds from the
+glaciers, where caverns and cracks gleam with that magnificent blue
+colour, varying from deep cobalt to light ultramarine. Then you also
+notice all the more minute details in the forest, that you hardly
+pay any attention to when the rain is pouring down and fog is on the
+water. I do not speak as a botanist now, for I naturally found the
+forest as interesting in the bad weather, and I had every reason to
+rejoice at the results of my studies in Skyring. The geologists also
+were contented; they got a natural section through the mountains, older
+layers appearing as one proceeds westwards.
+
+We still hoped to meet Indians. In many places we found abandoned huts,
+but never the natives. We had heard of a passage made by Indians from
+Excelsior Inlet to Obstruction Sound, and spent a day visiting it. The
+inlet is barred and the ship had to stop outside. We found the way, but
+I shall tell of it in another connection.
+
+Estero de los Ventisqueros, the Glacier Inlet, is one of the longest
+and most narrow, penetrating south-south-west far into the Muñoz
+Gamero Peninsula. Its innermost part was hardly known, which gave us a
+special reason for going there. The entrance is very narrow, and has
+the character of a rapid stream. Up it we forced our way between stones
+and heavy logs. The stream seemed to us somewhat strange, and we were
+not surprised to find the water in the inlet fresh, a lake having been
+formed where the tide played no part. Between imposing mountains, clad
+with snow and glaciers, we pulled towards the end, round a point that
+has shut off the interior, where was the gigantic glacier, stretching a
+tongue out into the water, which is full of ice. The ice-wall is about
+half a mile broad, and has a height of about 90 feet. We spent some
+hours here collecting, and late in the evening came back on board very
+pleased with our day and anxiously waiting for the next, when we were
+to make the acquaintance of Gajardo Channel. The outer part produced
+the same impression as the other inlets we had seen, but it gradually
+became very narrow, and finally no passage could be found. We had
+reached the place called Angostura de los Témpanos, or Icefloe Narrows,
+where even rowing-boats can hardly pass. Here the tidal current rushes
+through a narrow gorge over stones and reefs at a speed of up to eight
+knots. Heaps of ice from the surrounding glaciers are brought to and
+fro through the Narrows, and have given rise to its geographical name.
+
+[Illustration: THE BOTTOM OF VENTISQUEROS SOUND.]
+
+The _Huemul_ anchored close to the cliff, a boat was lowered, and we
+set out to pull through; we had the tide against us, though not with
+its full force, and hardly got away from the spot in spite of eight men
+at the four oars. At great risk we got past the whirlpools round the
+shallow places. Excitement could be read in all faces, and with loud
+“hurrahs” we came out into calmer water. To our right a small inlet
+opened, and as we rounded the point the sight of the glacier in the
+background called forth renewed cheers. I think I have seen much ice
+in all shapes and forms, but hardly anything that made so strong an
+impression on me. In frozen cascades it comes through a narrow chasm,
+broadens out again, and protrudes into the green, transparent water
+with a tongue 100 feet high, crowned by millions of fantastic needles.
+Hardly a fleck on it, but what a play of bright colours--Prussian blue,
+ultramarine, and cobalt! In silence we rested on the oars, watching the
+sight. There was a narrow crevice in the rock at the edge of the ice
+where we could land; on one side we had the glacier, on the other the
+high ice-clad cliff; huge pieces had fallen down where we now stood.
+As the place looked dangerous, we hurried on with our observations; now
+and again the big glacier discharged large pieces of ice, giving rise
+to a swell, that made our position uncomfortable. Quensel got specimens
+of the rocks. Halle and I found some Alpine plants that thrive at
+sea-level, refreshed by the cool breath from the icy surroundings.
+
+We had just left when with thunder a large ice-block plunged down into
+the water, followed by a wave so great that an accident might easily
+have happened had we remained there; the place was swept by water and
+pieces of ice, and we had trouble enough to keep the boat clear from
+the rock where we landed to watch the imposing spectacle. As we did
+not want to stop with the ship near the Narrows, the anchorage being
+miserable, we resolved to go back. Pulling along the cliff, where a
+hanging glacier looked down on us from above, happily enough without
+paying us any other attention, we arrived at the critical place, and
+beheld a sight not particularly encouraging. Our calculations had
+failed; the current had turned and rushed full speed in the opposite
+direction, playing with the icefloes that were on their way to the
+other side of the pass. We tried, but were caught by a whirlpool,
+and were only saved by the efforts of the oarsmen from being crushed
+against the rocks. We crossed and landed on the east side, and climbed
+the rocks to look at the surroundings. On the other side it was not
+possible to get along, on this we could certainly pass if we kept at
+a height of 30 to 50 feet above the water; we should thus be able to
+get down on the north side and signal to the ship. But the boat? We
+could not leave it there. We had almost made up our minds to wait five
+or six hours when Pagels made a suggestion: he thought it possible,
+though dangerous, to climb along the precipice, dragging the boat by
+the painter, which was rather long. Step by step we advanced. It was
+not easy to find foothold; the tiniest shelf was taken advantage of;
+our fingers grasped the smallest irregularities on the face of the
+high, precipitous cliff. The boat seemed to cling to every irregularity
+or projection; the current pressed it against the cliff with such force
+that some of us had to jump into it, cutting our fingers in trying to
+fend it off. We got past the worst rapids and gained a place where the
+mountain sloped gradually down to the water. Another critical moment:
+we all embarked, only Pagels, firmly squatted on his broad hams, pipe
+in mouth, still grasped the painter. Ready with the oars! Pagels swung
+the bow round, jumped into the boat, and at the same instant four oars
+dipped and strained against the current. The least carelessness and the
+boat would have been hurled back into the rapids again. A last effort,
+making the oarsmen drip with sweat in spite of the cold weather, and we
+were back on board.
+
+It was too late to look for a new anchorage. We lay in a very
+disagreeable and rather unsafe place, the bottom being rock and the
+water deep close to the shore, where several shoals unexpectedly
+appeared. Now and then a strong puff of wind came from the high
+mountains, giving us a foretaste of the weather we should get. We
+had hardly got on board when the ship went adrift; hastily we got
+sufficient pressure in the boilers to heave up and anchor again. There
+was not much repose on board that night. It was pitch-dark, the channel
+narrow, the current strong, and the shore dangerous. The captain had
+thrown himself on a sofa with his clothes on, and we were disturbed by
+heavy boots tramping over our heads, and every ten minutes soundings
+were taken in order to see if we were drifting. At 5 A.M. I heard the
+noise of heavy squalls, and noticed that the vessel trembled in a
+curious manner, as if she were aground. I fell asleep once more, but
+woke up with the engines working at full speed and the hull shaking
+terribly. I was right; we had dragged anchor and struck a flat rock,
+not more than 100 feet from the shore. With the engines alone we made
+no progress, but we tried a kedge with better result. Nothing serious
+had happened, and in the grey dawn we steamed out of Gajardo Channel.
+
+A few words on the peculiar hydrographic and biological conditions in
+Skyring Water might be of some interest. As the narrow and shallow
+Fitzroy and Gajardo Channels are its only connection with other water,
+the tide is hardly noticeable, the difference being only some few
+inches. From glaciers and rivers volumes of fresh water are discharged
+into Skyring, and the result is brackish water. That the organic life
+is influenced thereby is evident: the plant life is different, seaweeds
+are miserable, no big kelp is found, and animal life is very poor.
+
+[Illustration: THE ENTRANCE OF EXCELSIOR SOUND.]
+
+In the central and east part of the large water several landings
+were left, and we crossed from north to south and _vice versâ_ a number
+of times. The country further east has nothing of the wild beauty
+of the west, but is not less interesting. The tertiary layers were
+surveyed by Halle at two places, Mina Magdalena and Mina Marta. On
+the last-mentioned place you may see a Patagonian mining enterprise
+in its last stage--ruined houses, rusty machinery strewn all over the
+ground. The coal was no coal, which the “engineers” did not discover
+till everything was ready for a start, but lignite, whose value may be
+scientific, but hardly more. Halle found plenty of fossils.
+
+When we came back to Los Amigos we wanted to make some additional
+excursions in Otway Water, but unhappily there is a telephone line to
+Punta Arenas, and the admiral requested us to return as soon as we
+could.
+
+This made us pass Jerome Channel at night; the captain did not like it,
+but he had been asked to do it, if possible. We were not very pleased
+at returning so soon. It was a fine evening; we had crossed Otway
+Water, and the _Huemul_ made its way along the coast of the Jerome
+Channel, where mountain and water merge into black darkness. We were
+approaching the outlet, when the engine suddenly stopped. The current
+is in our favour, thus giving us a moment’s breathing-space. What’s the
+matter? The engineer does not know; something has gone wrong; he cannot
+risk going any further. “But we shall drift ashore within a minute
+or two,” the captain shouts; “we must continue.” Again we try, very
+slowly; a noise of thunder is heard from the big cylinder, as if the
+cap would burst. A conference is held. We cannot reach a safe harbour;
+the nearest is Arauz Bay, but the water is dirty there, and it is not
+sheltered from the prevailing wind. However, we try again, and being
+outside the harbour a yawl is sent ahead to make soundings, and by
+means of fire-signals the officer in it leads us to an anchorage.
+
+The damage proved to be very serious. We had broken the shaft, and
+there could be no thought of repairing it here; all we could do was to
+keep it tight till we could reach Punta Arenas. Good luck had helped
+us hitherto--had it happened half an hour earlier we might have lost
+the ship--but we still wanted a good deal. The bay is open to the
+south-west. If a gale comes now, when our fires are out--what can we
+do? We _had_ good luck; all the time the rare north wind blew! After
+working without a moment’s stop for thirty hours the clever engineer
+declared all to be ready, and on the evening of May 4 we were back in
+Punta Arenas again.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+THE PATAGONIAN CHANNELS
+
+
+The scheme proposed for the next excursion was a cruise in the
+Patagonian Channels between the Magellan Straits and the Penas Gulf,
+during which we wanted to pay more particular attention to the natives.
+As Halle could expect little if any result from a trip in these parts,
+it was resolved that he should take up his work elsewhere and meet us
+in Ancud, on Chiloé, in the beginning of July. On May 9 he departed
+for Rio Grande, in Tierra del Fuego, whence he brought back fine
+collections of tertiary fossils. After his return to Punta Arenas he
+travelled on horseback along the Brunswick Peninsula to the place where
+Darwin long ago collected the first specimens of Magellan fossils.
+
+Our expedition, however, got another member. On several occasions I had
+discussed the Channel trip with one of our new friends, Captain José
+Bordes, _piloto mayor_ in the Chilean navy, and intimately acquainted
+with those parts and their population. He very much wanted to go with
+us, but could not, of course, simply leave his service, and he proposed
+that I should ask permission for him from the senior in command of the
+navy, Vice-Admiral Montt, in Valparaiso. The latter readily granted
+my request, and Bordes got a telegraphic order to take part in the
+expedition.
+
+But at first it seemed difficult to get a suitable vessel. Admiral
+Rojas declared with a smile that the expedition had already accounted
+for one ship, viz., the _Huemul_, and besides she would have been too
+small and uncomfortable for an extended journey. Of the two other
+vessels stationed at Punta Arenas, one was of no use to us, but the
+other, the _Meteoro_, a twin-screw steamer of 650 tons, very well
+fulfilled our requirements. Unfortunately, she was bound for a run
+to San Felix Lighthouse, taking with her an engineer, sent by the
+Government to effect the preparatory work for the proposed Marconi
+installation between Valparaiso and Punta Arenas. All telegrams between
+the Magellan territories and the rest of Chile have to pass Argentina,
+an ordinary overland wire being an impossibility and a submarine cable
+being considered too expensive. After her return to Punta Arenas,
+the _Meteoro_ had to visit the Evangelistas lighthouse, and thus it
+would be a long time before she could be at our disposal. Through
+the kindness of the authorities the difficulties were surmounted; I
+proposed that we should take part of the expedition to the Evangelistas
+rocks, and from there proceed directly to the Channels, and the Admiral
+assented. This was rather an advantage, for we won another station
+which we had never hoped for. Still one small difficulty remained: we
+wanted to get an interpreter, a Spanish-speaking Indian, but could not
+get one in Punta Arenas. We had to put off this quest, and Bordes told
+us he would try to persuade one or other of his Indian acquaintances in
+the Straits to come with us.
+
+On May 21 we left the sunshine behind and once more disappeared in the
+rainy west. We anchored in Port Gallant, where Indians used to pass,
+selling their otter-skins to an Austrian, who lives there, and has done
+so for many years, with a native woman. Few Indians were there now, but
+amongst them was a middle-aged woman, who knew Bordes very well and had
+great confidence in him. At first she had strong apprehensions about
+coming with us, and it required all Bordes’ eloquence to persuade her
+to take the decisive step on to the deck of the _Meteoro_. I now have
+the honour of introducing to my reader Mrs. Akichakwarrakwiltee--thus
+she calls herself. Her mission name, Emilia, is more handy, though
+not so euphonious. She became quite an indispensable assistant;
+she persuaded her countrymen to come on board, explaining that the
+instruments were not to torture them with, that we were no “Cristianos
+malos”--evil Christians--which words are inseparably associated in
+the mouth of a Channel Indian. Every evening I sat with her in the
+laboratory, she always crouching on one of the plant-presses, trying
+to teach me a little of her marvellous language, compared with which
+both Irish and Scotch appear quite civilized tongues. Unfortunately,
+her knowledge of Spanish was too superficial for grammatical studies,
+and I had to be very patient to make her understand. A great drawback
+was that in Spanish she always spoke of herself in the third person, as
+children often do.
+
+It was funny enough to study her in her new surroundings. She came on
+board dressed in some queer rags and with naked legs, and we could
+not help laughing when she walked about like a fine lady in a grey
+gown trimmed with red velvet, and a green cape, over which her black
+hair fell thick and wild. And in this dress she became a member of the
+Swedish Magellan Expedition. At first she did not seem very pleased
+with her new life, walked alone, silent, and almost ill-humoured,
+but we soon gained her confidence, and she gradually became more
+communicative. One night when, as usual, we were sitting up talking
+I wormed some of her story out of her. She had been caught by the
+missionaries and was brought to Dawson Island with her husband and
+children. She had three of them, one so big, one so big, and the third
+so--she measured with her hand above the deck--and “she was such a nice
+little girl,” she added. But they lived in a “bad house”; all fell ill
+and died, and she was left alone. How she managed to get away from
+Dawson Island I do not know; anyhow I congratulated her. She did not
+want to go back.
+
+The _Meteoro_ heads west. More and more barren grows the landscape,
+more and more dwarfed the forest, colder the storm and fog. We have
+left the continuous coast and steam through the archipelago. Home,
+sweet home! Hundreds and thousands of islands, skerries, rocks, with a
+cluster of stunted trees on the lee side, smooth rocks with some grass
+where only sea-birds breed. We have left the untidy slate and have
+reached the granite zone, where the glacial epoch has created the same
+skerry-nature as in Sweden. The more we look the stronger grows the
+likeness; we dream ourselves far away, the beeches become Scotch
+firs, the foreign sea-birds our common eiders and gulls....
+
+[Illustration: OUR INTERPRETER, CHANNELS OF PATAGONIA.]
+
+[Illustration: TWO CHANNEL INDIANS.]
+
+We made for a harbour in the offing. With Bordes on board we could make
+short cuts not marked in the charts, through interesting passages and
+narrow channels not exceeding 300 feet broad, and in some places so
+narrow that we almost touched the fringe of giant kelp (_Macrocystis_)
+on each side, and anchored in Puerto Cuarenta Dias, the Forty Days’
+Harbour--a name that holds a story: here a vessel is said to have
+waited forty days before it could approach the Evangelistas rocks.
+This perhaps is somewhat exaggerated--I dare not dispute it; anyhow, a
+week’s waiting is not a rare occurrence. For us it was of the utmost
+importance to land on the rock without delay, otherwise the whole
+voyage through the channels might be a failure. No wonder that we
+watched the daybreak on May 26 with great anxiety. We had enjoyed light
+breezes from north and east, rare but all the more welcome for that,
+and calculated that subsequently the regular westerly swell--nothing
+less than the whole Pacific Ocean!--would have died down enough to make
+landing possible.
+
+Rain and a grey, thick sky and a water like lead met us as we swung out
+through the last skerries and made for some black spots on the horizon.
+These are the famous Evangelistas rocks. Through the glasses the
+lighthouse can be seen. The motion of the sea is comparatively gentle,
+and the occasion seems to be favourable; however, it is no child’s
+play to land there. We pass the black Pan de Azucar (Sugar-loaf), and
+the _Meteoro_ anchors in deep water between two high, black slate
+rocks, one of them crowned by a small lighthouse. We went with the
+first boat, steered by the steady hands of the boatswain over the soft
+switchback of swell towards the point of the rock that is honoured
+by the name of landing-place; were it not for the name nobody would
+suspect it. The sea does not break there, but only plays with the boat.
+One moment we are lifted high up, the gunwale scratching the rock,
+the next the retiring wave bears the boat back deep down among the
+giant kelp-masses, now for a second laid bare like innumerable slimy
+serpents, that the capricious surf winds into graceful patterns. Eight
+above our head rises a rough slate wall about 30 or 40 feet high, and
+some men stand on the top of it, waving their hands--presumably they
+are glad to see us. A rope hangs down in a long loop, by which means
+the boat is kept in place, and we are told to use it as we climb.
+Bordes is the first to try, old and used to it as he is. The main
+thing is to mind one’s p’s and q’s: when a wave lifts the boat up to
+the cliff one must jump, without losing a second, on to a shelf two or
+three inches wide, slippery with green algæ--without the rope one could
+hardly keep one’s footing. If you do not want the next wave to attack
+you in the rear you had better look lively, climbing and crawling
+with the assistance of projections and the rope: finally you are on
+safe ground and have “gone on shore” on Evangelistas. We had but one
+adventure. A young officer got a cold bath when he jumped, that was all.
+
+The three lighthouse-keepers gave us a hearty welcome. No wonder; a
+worse prison than theirs it is difficult to conceive. Even on a short
+visit like ours one feels a certain oppression, as of a prisoner behind
+a curtain waved by storm and rain. A high, for the most part quite
+barren, rock, steep on all sides; the vegetation a swampy moss-peat,
+giving way to the pressure of your feet; a small lighthouse, trembling
+in the frightful gales which give these parts of the world their bad
+reputation; day after day drowned in floods of rain mingled with the
+sprinkle of the breakers; many miles from the nearest shore, hundreds
+from civilization, from which a message is sent some few times every
+year, when (always with difficulties and often with dangers) provisions
+are landed--that is what life on Evangelistas is like! I should not
+advise anybody with a melancholy turn of mind to settle there.
+
+It was interesting to find the slates again so far west--on very few
+places do they appear outside the granite zone. We had soon collected
+specimens of the poor, miserable, and scanty plants and animals, but
+it was long before all the stores had been landed. They were hoisted
+up with a derrick, worked by hand, and consequently so slow that
+people prefer the more hazardous ascent on their hands and knees.
+It is curious to think how the iron supports, not to speak of all
+the materials for the lighthouse, were ever landed. The story of the
+lighthouse would be worth a special chapter.
+
+Sitting on a bag, we allowed ourselves to be lowered by the tiny wire
+down into the boat, that with great care was kept beneath us, 60 feet
+below--a quick as well as a comfortable manner of getting away from the
+island. On board the captain was more anxious than ever. The winter
+days are short, the mist was not far off, and we must reach Cuarenta
+Dias before nightfall. When at 3 P.M. we weighed anchor the fog was
+already so dense that the islands were lost to sight within a few
+minutes. The water here in the offing is very dirty; we tried to make
+Cape King, but the current played us a trick and suddenly some nasty
+black needles loomed out of the thick veil on the port side; we were
+amidst the reefs--within the “danger-line.” The course was changed;
+Bordes was persistent and we tried again; but night came on, and we
+were forced to spend it running to and fro in the entrance of the
+Magellan Straits, guided by the flashes from the wee lighthouse, that
+has saved more than one Vessel from making nearer acquaintance with the
+ill-famed Cape Pillar.
+
+The next day we could start our work in the Queen Adelaide group,
+where many detailed geographical observations are still waiting to be
+made. We visited Pacheco Island and went out by Anita Channel--just at
+the most difficult spot--when a fog, so thick and white that we could
+not see the rocks close at hand, descended over the water. Of course
+there is no danger of collision; nevertheless it caused some anxiety
+among the officers. The fog vanished as quickly as it had come, and we
+proceeded to Viel Channel, where for the first time we met the Indians
+in their natural state. They were very shy, and refused to come on
+board. We continued east, crossed Smyth Channel, and anchored in a
+harbour called Puerto Ramirez, on the Muñoz Gamero Peninsula, the only
+spot inhabited by white men between the Straits and the Gulf of Penas.
+Several years ago, when Chile and Argentina were at odds with each
+other, the former country made a coaling-station here, and some sheds
+with coal are still left, guarded by two watchmen. Later on we had good
+reason to bless this coal-store.
+
+By the last day of May we were again under way, steaming northward
+through the Channels. Few places in Patagonia are so famous as these
+Channels, where the steamer plunges between black, steep walls,
+crowned by snowy peaks reflected in the usually smooth water, where
+the open sea is never sighted, where one need not be afraid of storm
+or fog, when one has only to seek one of the numerous, charming little
+harbours. One can travel from 53° to 48°, a distance of 5°, without
+seeing the ocean! Where in the world is there anything like it? What
+a pity that sunshine and a clear sky are of rare occurrence; for days
+and weeks the rain does not cease, and a cold, wet fog rests over the
+water. The Channels have been compared with the Norwegian fiords. As
+far as the numerous inlets running east from the Channels into the
+mountains are concerned, I think that this comparison is obvious,
+even if we treat them from a geographical point of view. But in the
+outer appearance there is a big difference. In Patagonia Death seems
+to reign. The Channels are so silent; most of the sea-birds, such
+as gulls, Cape pigeons, albatrosses, and others that give life to
+the picture in the open sea have disappeared; so have the porpoises
+which play merrily round the bows; only some kelp-geese, ducks, or
+patovapores are still to be seen. But the forest is magnificent, in
+spite of the utter silence prevailing there. My work took me there
+every day, and every night I returned on board with a fresh stock of
+experience and collections. Sometimes the beech--naturally always the
+evergreen one--leaves room for yellow and reddish swamps, where the
+only needle-tree of South Patagonia, _Libocedrus tetragona_, grows.
+People here call it the cypress. Large ferns with arboreous growth
+(_Blechnum magellanicum_) are noteworthy. As usual, flowers are rare,
+but there is one, the southern “copihue,” _Philesia buxifolia_, which
+flowers also during midwinter, that with its large pink bells is almost
+unrivalled. To one thing the botanist has to accustom himself: to
+return every day as soaked as is the forest itself.
+
+In the Sarmiento Channel, the continuation of Smyth Channel, we met
+several Indians; two canoes with their crews we took on board and
+brought to Puerto Bueno, where we stayed two days. Between Chatham and
+Hanover Islands, in a narrow place called Guia Narrows, we met another
+canoe; a naked girl angrily repeated “Cristiano malo,” and the crew
+could not be persuaded to come on board. Probably they had been badly
+treated by some passing sailors.
+
+The traffic in the Channels is very small nowadays. Almost all ships
+prefer to take the open sea, where they may steam day and night, which
+is hardly possible in the Channels, but one of the greatest pleasures
+on a cruise round South America is lost thereby.
+
+At about 51° we noticed a certain change in the vegetation. New trees
+and bushes appeared, especially a curious needle-tree called _mañiú_
+(in this case _Podocarpus nubigena_), and beautiful climbing plants
+covered the trunks.
+
+When passing Inocentes Channel one comes out into more open water,
+but only for a very short distance; soon the high walls close in on
+both sides again. Penguin Inlet was full of ice, and in Icy Reach we
+met innumerable small ice-floes, probably from Eyre Inlet, one of the
+unknown inlets on this coast. Not far from there, in Port Grappler,
+we came across the largest party of Indians we saw. They had probably
+had disagreeable experiences with white people--it is not uncommon for
+unscrupulous people to try to obtain their only valuable possession,
+the otter-skins, without giving them anything useful in return; they
+sometimes ill-treat them, seduce their women, or rob them of their
+children--but thanks to the energetic efforts of Emilia we got on
+rather friendly terms with them, giving them what we had of spare
+clothes, biscuits, tobacco, knives, matches, and other things highly
+appreciated by them. On June 7 we reached the English Narrows, a very
+narrow, =S=-shaped passage, where more than one vessel has struck. The
+masts of one were still to be seen. In the eighties a German expedition
+tried to find another passage--at that time the Kosmos steamers used to
+frequent the Channels--and discovered quite a system of channels west
+of the main track, but unfortunately they are interrupted by a place
+much worse still, where the open sea rolls in, and which is so shallow
+that breakers are often experienced, and one may have to wait several
+days for a chance of crossing. We intended to run this way on our
+return; now we proceeded further along the Messier Channel, and thus
+reached our destination, the Gulf of Penas. Towards the east a large
+system of inlets, Baker Inlet with its branches, penetrating far into
+the mountains, opened, and there we turned in. For several days we had
+discussed the coal question, and as the captain argued that we should
+be unable to reach Punta Arenas we gave up the idea of going to the
+mouth of Rio Baker, with the greater regret as we were not far from it.
+
+In terrible squalls we passed Troya Channel and turned westward, when
+we suddenly caught sight of a sailing-boat. We guessed it to be people
+from the Baker Company, a Chilean enterprise, which has the leasehold
+of large stretches round the river from the inlet to the Argentina
+frontier. Of course we stopped at once, took the crew on board, and
+towed their boat to a harbour.
+
+Baker Inlet is a very wild-looking place. In consequence of its
+west-easterly direction the gales rush through it with unrestrained
+force, and the forest has been driven back into sheltered places, where
+the company has cut down the big trees. In the coves one can find
+scenery of charming beauty, where the slopes with woods, cascades, and
+snow-patches are reflected in the smooth, icy-green water. When one
+enters such a cove, coming from the windy barrenness of the channel,
+one gets the same feeling as coming into a warm, comfortable room from
+the snowstorm outside.
+
+As we very much wanted to visit some of the channels outside the
+Wellington Islands, we crossed Messier Channel on June 12 and passed
+into Albatross Channel. Here every name on the chart indicates that
+it was given by sons of _das grosse Vaterland_. The weather was
+terrible, and we walked about wet and cold all day long, but otherwise
+contented, as every day brought new features under our observation. On
+account of the poor store of coal we had to abandon our plan of going
+round Wellington Islands, but followed Fallos Channel only to the
+mouth of Adalbert Channel, through which we came to the Messier again.
+Again we passed the Narrows and took the shortest road through Chasm
+Reach, where the echo plays at ball between precipitous walls with the
+sound-waves from our whistle. One must not forget to look astern before
+the steamer changes its course, for high up the ice-clad summits on
+Wellington Island may be seen for a moment.
+
+Still we had an important item of our programme left--the survey of
+Peel Inlet; and as I strongly insisted on it the captain had to yield,
+and promised to take some tons of coal on board in Muñoz Gamero, which
+he had refused to do before. But the probable reason was that he was
+in dread of every place not completely known, and walked about always
+suspecting danger. Had we not had Bordes with us, who was the real
+commander as soon as it was a question of some difficult enterprise,
+it is more than uncertain whether we should have been able to do much
+work. Certainly I could not force the commander to do anything he
+declared dangerous to the safety of the vessel he was in charge of, and
+as, unlike most naval officers, he did not take the slightest interest
+in scientific work, he took refuge behind his responsibility as often
+as he could.
+
+Through Andrew Sound we went towards Pitt Channel. No harbour is known
+here, and on the chart one anchorage is marked, in eleven fathoms
+of water at the most easterly of the Kentish Islands. In vain we
+looked for that anchorage; it was deep all round; and in spite of
+the approaching darkness we had to continue our course. We sounded
+close to the shore--sixty, forty, thirty fathoms; at last we anchored
+in nineteen fathoms, but then the distance to the rocks was only a
+hundred feet. We were completely without shelter, the anchorage was
+bad, and a squall would result in our dragging our anchors. Before
+daybreak we weighed and steamed through Pitt Channel into Peel Inlet.
+The _Huemul_, which was here once, had indicated a sandbank on the
+place where the inlet branches. We passed with plenty of water. As we
+slowly glided into Peel Inlet and the last hiding-point lay behind us,
+we became silent, struck dumb by the scenery. Perhaps we never saw any
+more grand; it was quite wonderful. Furthest off, but nevertheless not
+very far, rise the high crests of the Andes, with fantastic needles
+and sharp-cut peaks, round which the continuous sheet of inland ice
+has folded its dazzling mantle. Four broad streams of ice emerge from
+it, embracing the violet-brown nunataks and joining in a gigantic
+glacier with a front nearly two miles broad, one single expanse of blue
+crevices and white crests. This all in a frame of evergreen forest and
+reflected in transparent, glossy water where the image now and then is
+blotted out by the ice-floes driven to and fro by the currents. Inland
+ice, Alps with eternal snow, all the details of a glacier, slopes and
+shores clad with a primeval forest, the crystalline fiord-water, the
+drifting ice, and all this embraced in one single glance! That _is_
+wonderful, I think.
+
+We could the more enjoy the sight as we had discovered an unknown
+harbour not far off, suitable in every way. Quensel and I pulled
+through the ice, densely packed in certain places, to the glacier,
+and the officers started to make a map of the harbour, which we named
+Puerto Témpanos, _i.e._, the Port of Icefloes, as owing to the tide the
+cove is filled with small pieces of ice twice a day.
+
+We found ourselves in a world of ice, moraines, and muddy rivers, where
+we got on capitally, and did not return before dark, very pleased with
+the results, which included, amongst others, important observations
+of the geology in the High Cordillera. The next day broke calm and
+fine, but with a fog so thick that we could not see even the shore
+of our little cove. In the afternoon work could be continued round
+the harbour, which is fringed by a swampy forest of deciduous beech
+(_Nothofagus antarctica_). Fortunately we got another clear day. The
+last thing we did was to erect a tablet at the entrance of the harbour,
+with this inscription: “Meteoro. Comisión sueco-chilena. 16 . VI .
+1908.” I suppose it will be long before anybody finds it. As we came
+out, the old Channel weather met us again with rain and a gale of
+wind--but what did it matter? We had been successful with Peel Inlet
+and our spirits were high!
+
+Silence now reigned in Puerto Bueno. The huts stood empty like grinning
+skeletons, their inhabitants gone on their everlasting wanderings.
+Further south we came across some more families, and the last were seen
+at Muñoz Gamero, where we made a short stay to take fresh supplies
+of coal on board. In Smyth Channel we met two steamers, one of them
+evoking great excitement--the Norwegian ship _Alm_, chartered by a
+Punta Arenas firm to run between this place and Valparaiso. Halle was
+on board on his way to Chiloé, and we waved a farewell to each other.
+
+Fresh wind and a heavy sea, Cape pigeons and stormy petrels met us
+when we came out into the Straits. Behind us lay the labyrinth, the
+wonderland where we should never return.
+
+We had some places left to visit before we could consider the excursion
+finished. The lighthouse on Felix Island we visited on our way out, but
+stopped once more to bring the mail to Punta Arenas. From there we went
+to Woodsworth Bay to find a harbour. This place has been famous for
+its waterfall ever since the time of the _Beagle_. There is no lack of
+waterfalls in the Channels, as the rivers have no other resource but
+to flow vertically, but this was beyond all we had seen. Dancing from
+one narrow shelf to the next, from a height of nearly a thousand feet,
+the water hurls itself into the sea, and the whole length of the jet is
+visible at one time.
+
+In Port Gallant we said good-bye to Emilia. I daresay she left us under
+the impression that not all “cristianos” are “malos.” On a midwinter
+night the _Meteoro_ anchored in the roads of Punta Arenas. We had no
+time to spare there; on the 29th we went on board a Kosmos steamer that
+took us to Corral, and there we immediately found another vessel bound
+for Ancud, the capital of Chiloé.
+
+[Illustration: PEEL INLET, WITH GREAT GLACIERS.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+A DYING RACE
+
+
+A keen wind whistles through the Channels, tears the stunted trees, and
+now and then flings a grey shower as a contribution to the yellowish
+bogs. On the tops of the mountains the winter snow shines against a
+leaden sky. Then Emilia presses her flat nose still flatter against the
+panes in the laboratory and says something which signifies “canoe.”
+By means of the glasses we perceive a black spot far ahead--our first
+encounter with the Indians is at hand. Darwin once said that a naked
+savage in his own land is a sight never to be forgotten. It was not the
+first we had seen, but the impression was never so strong.
+
+The canoe we now met was typical from every point of view. Half-naked,
+wild-looking figures are pulling out of time; in the stern an old
+woman steers. Everywhere amongst the queer luggage--sticks and poles
+of various shapes, old sealskins, piles of shells, and pieces of
+blubber--barking dogs peep forth, and in the smoke from the fire,
+always nursed in the middle of the boat, some rough-headed children
+appear. Now they have caught sight of Emilia, with their dark eyes
+wide open they quickly exchange ideas about this elegant lady who
+steps about on deck with such an assurance of demeanour. She was sent
+to negotiate. We were under the impression that a whole sermon would
+be necessary to explain that we were not bad and did not want to rob
+them of their children; at least a long while elapsed before they could
+make up their minds to come on board. Not until now did we get an idea
+of the contents of a canoe! Out came a dozen persons--men, women, and
+children, the youngest carried on the back--accompanied by half a
+score of dogs. They look round shyly, but at the same time with much
+curiosity; some of them come on board after a certain hesitation. They
+refuse to leave their canoe alone, but one of them stops to keep an eye
+on us; certainly we are likely to steal the valuable contents. Only
+think of the delicious half-rotten whale-blubber!
+
+Let us make nearer acquaintance with this peculiar race. Round the
+funnel, where it is warm, our guests have made themselves comfortable,
+squatting on their hams. Truly it is a funny assembly, and one is
+almost ready to ask if they really belong to the same species as we
+do. The face is round, the distance between the cheek-bones being
+remarkably great. The eyes have a dark and earnest expression, the nose
+is flat and broad, the mouth often monstrously large, with thick lips.
+The teeth of the younger members are white and beautiful; in the case
+of the older members one often finds the front teeth missing--they
+have gone in the process of one or other of the employments to which
+they have been put. The skin is of a dirty yellowish-brown colour,
+sometimes with a coppery tinge; the hair is very thick, coarse, and
+jet-black. It is worn hanging loose over the shoulders, a square-cut
+fringe hiding the forehead. Both sexes show a remarkable disproportion
+between the upper body and the legs. The trunk is well developed, the
+neck short and thick, the shoulders straight, and the arms long and
+muscular. Often one finds real features of beauty, though the body is
+often disfigured by an all too prominent abdomen. Their worst point
+is thin, bent legs; want of exercise retards their development--the
+Indian lives in his canoe and by his fire; he is always sitting, and
+when he straightens his legs the skin folds over the kneecap. The men,
+who are generally without any trace of a beard, are mostly of finer
+stature than the women; they are considerably taller, their medium
+height reaching 5 feet 1 inch, against 4 feet 8 inches in the case
+of the women. The babies are rather lovely, with skin and hair of a
+lighter colour and with eyes of that deep blue which is often observed
+in kittens.
+
+A visit to the camp gives us the best idea of Indian life. The beach is
+covered with shells. The canoes have been hauled up on thin logs. A few
+steps from the water, and we reach the huts, that harmonise so with the
+surrounding forest that one does not see them until one gets close. The
+forest gives shelter from at least one direction; on the rocks mussels
+grow large and fat, and outside in the cove one can gather sea-urchins.
+
+The inhabitants have gathered in front of their wigwams to greet us.
+They were just “at table,” an occupation much in favour during the
+daytime, or even at night. They have hastened to put on old garments,
+such as shawls, pieces of blankets, torn jerseys, &c., or even the
+original mantle of skins. This was once the only garment worn--a
+square mantle of fur-seal or sea-otter, sometimes completed by a
+fig-leaf of the same material, kept in place by strings made from
+sinews. The head was always uncovered. With the visits of white men
+modern clothes have become more or less common; but there is hardly an
+Indian possessing a complete suit--one has a coat, another a pair of
+trousers, most of them have the legs quite naked. Some wear ornaments,
+necklaces of shells or on the breast a flat, polished piece of bone,
+fixed on a neatly plaited string. Without protests they let us enter
+the hut--some flexible sticks in a circle, bent together and fixed with
+a tough, grass-like plant (_Marsippospermum grandiflorum_). Hardly is
+the Indian able to stand upright under his roof, where the smoke from
+the fire, which is fed with fresh green branches of evergreen beech,
+may seek its way out at leisure. The wigwam is covered with grass,
+fern-leaves, twigs of trees, or with sea-lion skins and old pieces of
+clothes, all according to circumstances. The large skins are naturally
+much appreciated; they are never left behind on a camping-place, as
+are all the other materials used. The hut has one great advantage: it
+is easily constructed, and that is the main thing for a nomadic tribe.
+Once or twice we saw the skeleton of a hut brought along, which of
+course saved trouble.
+
+[Illustration: INDIAN CAMP, SARMIENTO CHANNEL.]
+
+We gladly “took a seat” with them and accepted their food. They have
+nice things to offer--large shellfish of various kinds, raw or roasted
+on the cinders, just as you like. Conversation is kept up with the aid
+of Emilia as interpreter: she is in her element, and appears to have
+forgotten all her new civilisation, ready to jump in a canoe again
+with naked legs amongst dogs, dirt, and rubbish. The shells crackle,
+lips whisper. The natives have a phenomenal capacity for speaking
+without producing a sound. They look very earnest, their lips move
+quickly--nothing is heard. Suddenly the whole party starts to laugh
+heartily; it is evident that somebody has made a sally, and there is no
+doubt that we are the butt of their joke.
+
+Mussels form the main part of their food. The big common _Mytilus_ are
+simply plucked like fruit at low tide; the flat _Patella_ is loosened
+with a short stick flattened like a chisel at one end. Sea-urchins are
+caught with a long stick, cleft in four parts at the end. But besides
+this they eat fish, meat, and blubber, or almost anything they can get
+hold of. Their weapons are very simple; the most important are the
+harpoons of bone, with one hook or with a long row of hooks like a saw
+fixed in a handle. There seems to be plenty of otter in the Channels;
+the skin is fine and valuable, and is the only object of barter
+available. Seal is not to be got every day, but one can live well on a
+big sea-lion for several days. And what delight when they come across
+a stranded whale! Feasts are held as long as anything eatable is left;
+from all directions the savages hasten up, eat till they are fit to
+burst, and pull away with loaded canoes. Several of the Indians we
+met had big quantities of whale-blubber. This does not contradict the
+fact that the Indian only lives for the day and never thinks of saving
+anything; he leads a wild life, with meat and blubber one day and
+nothing the next.
+
+Bows and arrows seem to have fallen out of use, which is the more
+remarkable as nothing has replaced them. They are of the same shape
+as those used by the Onas, but smaller. The arrows are made of yellow
+berberis-wood, and have a neatly fashioned point of flint or glass; the
+quiver is of seal- or otter-skin. Slings are sometimes used to kill
+birds with, and the women are said to be clever in using them. Another
+weapon also is found, but we made its acquaintance only once. It was
+in Port Grappler. The natives had been on board, and had not shown
+themselves amiably disposed towards us. The next day we went on shore
+to see their camp. As we were on our way we saw the women and children
+hurry away from the huts along a narrow path that disappeared in the
+thick forest--such a retreat seems to have been constructed at every
+camping-place--and the men gathered in front of the houses threatening
+us with stones, sticks, and a kind of club, which at once awoke our
+curiosity. They would not allow us to land before we had promised them
+to leave a shot-gun we brought behind in the yawl; Emilia had hard work
+to persuade them. At the same moment the clubs disappeared. In vain we
+asked them, in vain we looked all round; they only shook their heads,
+probably suspecting that we should deprive them of their arms and then
+assault them. It was only after a long parley and rich presents of
+biscuits and tobacco that one of them disappeared behind the hut and
+returned with a club, which he gave us. In comparison with its length
+(two feet) it is very heavy, and is made from the root of the tepú
+(_Tepualia stipularis_).
+
+The Channel Indians live in families and have no idea of a community.
+Now and then some families keep together, probably those related
+to each other, as, for instance, two brothers with their wives and
+children. The largest party we saw, in Port Grappler, numbered thirty
+members, who listened to an old grey-haired rascal, whose objection to
+our anthropometrical instruments made him prohibit his subjects from
+visiting our laboratory. But, as we later found out, the different
+families here afterwards spread in various directions. As a rule, the
+canoe Indian has only one wife, but it may happen that a man with
+an old (how soon!) and ugly wife secures a younger one. Polygamy
+is connected with the position of the woman. She is subject to her
+husband’s will, she does the hard work. Hour after hour, with her baby
+on her back, she sits pulling the boat in a tiring position; half a day
+she wades in the ice-cold water to fill the baskets with mussels. The
+household furniture is very plain: knives made from shells or stones,
+sinews, bone-prickers, all kept in round wooden boxes, and baskets
+plaited with a certain skill. How hard must it be in the circumstances
+to give birth to the children, rear them, and teach them to struggle
+for life with resources smaller, perhaps, than any other people on
+the earth possess! We seldom saw more than two or three children in a
+family; it is evident that mortality must be great among these naked
+little beings, who are dragged about with their parents in any kind
+of weather. Here, if ever one may study the survival of the fittest,
+he who stands the test when young should be able to stand anything. I
+do not think they ever reach any great age. The only one that looked
+more than fifty was the above-mentioned _cacique_ in Port Grappler.
+They have no idea whatever of their age. They do not count more than
+to three; any number above is much or many. We need not be astonished
+at their not getting old: in fact, they lead a life as hard as we can
+conceive. An existence in constant cold, in eternal rain, which makes
+it impossible to dry anything for weeks together, in icy water, in
+storms and frequent dangers, and, finally, the intercourse with white
+men, is not favourable to longevity.
+
+That the dismal surroundings and the frightful struggle for existence
+should put their stamp on the mental life is easily understood. There
+rests a certain mournful melancholy over their souls; they are used to
+fearing the dangerous elements, and white men, more dangerous still.
+But, as true children of instinct, they forget all sorrows round the
+crackling fire; when they have plenty to eat their eyes sparkle, they
+have a merry time. Play seems to be foreign to them; not even the
+children play, but look earnest as old people, as if they could already
+behold all the terrors of the future in the dreary sky that lifts its
+vault above their land. I have not seen any ceremonies; probably they
+perform some, but refuse to before strangers. The Yahgan tribe was
+not without them. They have no religious ideas, they do not worship
+anything, but it is clear that they must fear powers of nature, which
+they cannot explain. They also seem to have some sort of idea that dead
+persons may hurt them; twice we saw natives carrying a small leather
+pouch with hair from a dead person, and Emilia declared them to be
+amulets. Anyhow their owners parted with them for a match-box.
+
+Life makes the Channel Indian a nomad. He moves along the shores all
+his life, year after year, from birth to death. However plain his
+canoe may look, it is a masterpiece, if we take into consideration
+that it is made with empty hands. Formerly the principal tool was the
+fire. A tree was burnt at the foot till it crashed down, the log was
+literally burnt down to a plank, and the charred wood gradually scraped
+off with big sharp-edged shells or stone knives. Now axes are used,
+but not every family has one. Then the plank is furnished with holes
+along the edges, as the canoe must be bound together. The construction
+is simple: one bottom board bent upwards in the bow and stern to form
+the broad stem and the stern-post, which protrude above the sides,
+made of two boards fixed to each other and to the bottom. They are
+drawn together with the tough bast of the cypress or the stem of a
+runner-plant (_Campsidium chilense_) and tightened with moss, fat, &c.;
+nevertheless the canoe makes a lot of water, and the scoop of sealskin
+is frequently needed. Some small sticks across the gunwales make the
+thwarts, and it is ready--the treasure, the family fortune. Now and
+then we saw oars of the primitive type, made in two pieces with the
+blade fixed with bast on to the handle, but those who are well off and
+possess a hatchet make them as we do. The oar to steer with is shorter
+than the rest, and is handled with great ability by the women. Often
+they travel into the open water; and the sea inside the Channels may
+become heavy indeed for such a primitive craft, especially when, during
+a move from one camp to another, it is heavily loaded. Once we took
+two canoes on board, and the contents were emptied on the deck. In
+spite of the dreadful stench, Quensel and I made a list of the things
+contained in one of them: Three long oars, one short, handles for the
+harpoons, hatchet (modern), basket of bark for fresh water, two boxes
+with harpoon points, necklaces, sinews, prickers, &c., three small bags
+of sealskin with the same contents as the boxes, a bag of whale-hide
+with blubber, baskets, bailer of sealskin, a piece of slate to sharpen
+knives, bundles of bast, sea-lion skins, heaps of shells, pieces of
+blubber, various whalebones and baleens, bundles of _Marsippospermum_
+and a painter, plaited of that same plant.
+
+Nowadays the Channel Indians are distributed from the Magellan Straits
+to the Gulf of Penas, over a distance of six degrees. Generally they
+keep inside, but sometimes travel out in the opening, and are said to
+use larger canoes for such journeys. We did not see any of this larger
+kind, but in Port Gallant found a third construction made from a single
+log. That sort is a product of late years. To the east the natives once
+travelled as far as Useless Bay and Magdalena Channel; opposite our
+camping-place in Admiralty Inlet we found the old huts. They are often
+seen in Last Hope Inlet, and sometimes in Skyring Water. As I have told
+above, we had heard of a road made by the natives from Obstruction
+Sound to Skyring, and we spent a day during our Skyring expedition in
+order to visit the place. Our yawl passed the bar at the entrance of
+Excelsior Sound, and we soon reached its inner extremity, and seemed
+surrounded everywhere by a wall of rocks and green foliage. At first we
+looked in vain. There is no beach of sand or gravel; the water reaches
+the very peat and the roots of the trees, and it was a mere chance that
+we found the landing-place, so well is it hidden. The road follows a
+narrow gorge, where a vault of green leaves closes above one’s head.
+It is four hundred yards long, and laid with short sticks across, with
+a distance of from three to six feet between them. At the other end we
+found a lagoon with fresh water, and from a hill we saw another lagoon
+separating us from Obstruction Sound. The sticks greatly facilitate the
+transport of the heavy canoes. What the Indians find to do in Skyring
+is not easy to tell. There are no shells or seals, and to judge from
+their old huts they carry provisions with them. Formerly they probably
+used to go there hunting guanacos, or more especially deer, and now
+perhaps to beg at the settlements. Several other passes, “portages” as
+they are sometimes called, are known in the Channels.
+
+The Yahgan tribe, which inhabits Tierra del Fuego down to Cape Horn,
+and the remnants of which are collected on a small mission station,
+leads a life in every way corresponding to that of the Channel
+tribe. Their canoe, however, is of a very different type. This is
+not remarkable; much more so is it that their languages are entirely
+different, not one word being the same, or even anything similar. It
+was possible for me to discover this, but how explain the difference?
+They cannot have had any great intercourse with each other, though
+they must have met, as no natural boundaries separate them. In the
+Patagonian Channels at least two different dialects are spoken; Emilia
+could not quite understand the Grappler people, but those in Smyth
+Channel spoke exactly as she did. The language can hardly be called
+beautiful. In the ears of a white man it sounds like a mixture of
+inarticulate, hoarse, and guttural sounds. The numerous consonants
+piled upon each other are characteristic, the peculiar sh and ch
+sounds, two kinds of r, and the impure vowels, which it is scarcely
+possible to pronounce. Their vocabulary is deficient in words for
+abstract things, but very rich in names of natural products, such
+as plants, animals, and even such as are of no use. Since their
+acquaintance with white people they have created many new words, such
+as for steamer, knife, matches, &c. We were surprised to know that they
+did not use the words for _man_ and _woman_ to indicate white people,
+but had made quite new names for them.
+
+Thus they have lived for thousands of years, have been born, eaten
+mussels, endured hardships, and died. Soon no descendants will walk in
+their footsteps; they will all die out. With every year their small
+tribe melts. Perhaps a few hundreds are now left, but soon only the
+fragments of canoes and skeletons of wigwams will bear witness to them.
+They will die, but not because they have succumbed to a stronger race,
+which is able to gain wealth, unknown to them, from their land. When
+they have disappeared their vast land will remain deserted; it offers
+means of life for nobody else. There we, the white men, are the weaker
+race. But why, then, are they condemned to extermination?
+
+Well, why did the Yahgans disappear? Nobody hungered for their
+country--it was for the care of their souls. The mission gathered
+them, took them away from their huts and canoes, set them to read the
+Catechism and knit stockings. They languished and died. And in _this_
+case the difficult problem, how the white intruder should treat the
+savages, was simple enough: leave them alone; receive those who wish
+it, absorb them if possible, but do not transplant them roughly to
+a new soil. I believe there is a scheme to collect the rest of the
+Channel Indians into the mission stations. Well, in this case it will
+only hasten the inevitable end. It is dreadful to see how the white men
+who passed through the Channels and regarded the natives as strange
+animals, amusing to look at for a while, have been able to spread death
+and destruction among these innocent children of nature. Syphilis and
+phthisis especially ravage, and if we remember the influence of the
+first-mentioned disease on the offspring it is easy to tell the future
+result. The natives certainly have not the slightest idea of what a
+contagious disease is.
+
+Perhaps all assistance would come too late now. But if I had the power
+I would erect a sort of central station where the poor fellows could
+come for a doctor and for other help, but without giving them a chance
+of a parasitic life of idleness. There is a small possibility that this
+peculiar tribe, one of the very lowest on earth, may be saved from
+total extermination. But who is the man to do it?
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+CHILOÉ AND THE GULF OF CORCOVADO
+
+
+In the year 1540 a Spanish navigator for the first time sighted the
+coast of Chiloé, but did not get very near the island. But though
+the discovery was not forgotten, it was thirteen years before the
+famous conqueror of Chile, Pedro de Valdivia, got an opportunity of
+sending another expedition. He sent Ulloa, who surveyed the coast
+with a couple of small craft, and discovered islands, harbours, and
+channels. The formal conquest dates from 1558, and, among many other
+events, is celebrated in Ercilla’s famous epic, “La Araucana.” The
+peaceful inhabitants met an evil fate. Without suspecting anything,
+they received the intruders kindly. But the Spaniards acted as they
+always did: the land was divided among the more prominent leaders,
+and the inhabitants made slaves. The island, which was before quite
+flourishing, and had a very ancient culture, and the population of
+which differed to its advantage from the martial Araucanians of the
+mainland in being very peaceful, soon ran to waste under the Spanish
+sway. The native race got commingled with the Spanish, and consequently
+grew poorer and more lazy; the intruders set bad examples and led
+vicious lives. Only one thing made rapid progress--the Catholic Church.
+According to a Chilean author, there were already thirty-six churches
+on Chiloé in 1612. But the population diminished, the inhabitants fled
+out of the country. Chiloé became truly Spanish. During the wars of
+independence it remained faithful for a long time; it was the bulwark
+of the Spaniards, and only in January 1826, when the republic was
+already several years old, did the last royal troops surrender. Long
+afterwards the inhabitants, more than half of them pure Spaniards or
+_mestizos_, remained royalists, and Darwin relates that they complained
+of not having a king, but a president who did not take any notice
+of them. They may have been right then, and still Chiloé has the
+reputation of being a remote corner; I heard more than one Chileno
+speak with disdain of the Chilotes. Remarkably enough the education of
+the people, if we dare judge from the capacity to read and write, is
+better than in the rest of Chile, where the chances are the same. I
+think this speaks in favour of the poor Chilotes. Trade and industry
+are not maintained as they deserve to be, and the attempt to colonize
+with foreign peoples, Germans, Scandinavians, and others, has not
+yielded any results worth mentioning.
+
+I believe the pure _huilliches_ are easily counted now, but their
+language will always live in the sonorous names of many places. In some
+places it is still spoken. Their blood is in the veins of all Chilotes,
+and the type has much of the Indian in its appearance and is easily
+recognized. Nowhere in Chile does one find conditions so primitive or
+habits so simple as on Chiloé and the adjacent islands.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+A very beautiful landscape meets us as the steamer stands in for the
+glittering bay of Ancud. It is a day of bright sunshine. To our right
+we have the peninsula Lacuy, with its virgin forests, to our left the
+low beach of Carelmapu, and right ahead the Chacao Channel opens its
+winding passage. Straight south the forest has been cleared away, a
+patch of light green shows up, and we discern the white houses of Ancud.
+
+As soon as we had anchored boats swarmed round us and dark-skinned
+Chilotes tried to drown each other’s voices, offering us their
+treasures of delicious oysters and silvery fishes. All of them also
+were ready to make away with our luggage and with us too; several crews
+live by fleecing visitors who want to go on shore. We left in the
+steam-launch belonging to the captain of the port, who had sent it to
+fetch us, as well as our equipment. A considerable distance separated
+the steamer from the jetty, the bay being very shallow.
+
+Ancud, the capital of the province, is a peculiar little town. It was
+founded in 1768 under the name of San Carlos de Ancud, and now numbers
+about 4000 inhabitants. I have seldom seen a place so absolutely
+lacking in any architectural beauty; most of the houses are low,
+wooden huts without a trace of style. The streets are rough and dirty,
+but fortunately not of the ordinary South American town plan--the
+chessboard--and crooked streets and small hills make a picturesque
+view. Round the harbour life is rather lively when the steamer is in;
+there are the business blocks, the small, ill-kept market-hall, the
+custom house, the port-master’s quarters, &c. The place is crowded
+with bare-legged Chilotes on horseback or on foot, not without the
+inevitable _poncho_, sometimes bright and new, of a striped pattern,
+sometimes like a worn-out rag on which generations have rubbed their
+feet. Further up in the town the streets are often empty, and on the
+outskirts swarm pigs, fowl, cats, and dogs, which seem to flourish in
+the luxuriant grass.
+
+[Illustration: CHILOTE HOUSE.]
+
+[Illustration: THE PLAZA IN ANCUD, CHILOÉ.]
+
+Above I said something of the general education of the Chilotes.
+Ancud has several schools, some of them private ones, and can boast
+of a lyceum. Its rector and professors showed us great kindness
+and hospitality. They try to be as up-to-date in their teaching as
+possible, but high above all their endeavours the cathedral rises with
+mighty proportions commanding the whole community. It is not quite
+finished yet; the tower is wanting, and will cost much money. I dare
+say it is absurd to erect a church here (and not the only one!) big
+enough to hold the faithful in several towns of the size of Ancud. But
+the Catholic church, led by an energetic bishop, is rich and powerful;
+there is a Jesuit college and seminary, monastery and nunnery, and all
+the east coast is so crowded with chapels that sometimes one is able to
+count half a dozen at a time. Some of them are useful as beacons. The
+male inhabitants in general are not very pleased with the over-abundant
+influence of the priests, but here as everywhere the weaker sex
+encourages it. The only newspaper, _La cruz del sur_, is conducted by
+the priests; it appears once a week, and is free from all news. The
+only number I read contained a biography of the Pope and a statistical
+account of Catholicism’s conquest of the world; amongst others Sweden
+was rapidly returning to the only saving faith, according to this
+authority! The cathedral is situated at the _plaza_, where are found
+other more noteworthy edifices--the house of the _intendente_ (governor
+of the province), the bishop’s house, the fire-brigade, and the Jesuit
+college. With its broken and to some extent very original sculptures,
+its plantations full of weeds and its paths overgrown, the _plaza_
+gives the impression of decay.
+
+Ancud has seen its best days. Those were when the devastation of the
+forests started, many years ago. Beautiful timber--alerce and cypress
+(_Fitzroya patagonia_ and _Libocedrus tetragona_, two conifers), laurel
+(_Laurelia aromatica_), and luma (_Myrtus luma_)--was plentiful all
+round in the forest, the transport cost scarcely anything, ships came
+and went, the town prospered, there were wealthy men. This state of
+things did not last long; the coastal regions easy of access became
+exhausted, and it cost too much to draw profit from the interior, as
+means of communication were difficult. There is only one road worthy
+of the name, leading from Ancud to Castro, but it does not touch the
+central parts covered by impenetrable forests down to the west coast,
+where harbours are completely lacking and where the surf seldom permits
+a landing. Culture keeps to the north and east coasts, where the
+outlying islands act as a shelter and good harbours are frequent.
+
+Before giving an account of our travels in these parts I wish to
+say some words by way of a brief description of the Chilote and
+his life. We made his acquaintance long before that of his country,
+because several of the sailors on board the Government steamers in
+Punta Arenas were Chilotes. We had learnt to know the small plump men
+as enterprising, intelligent, and light-hearted. It is not uncommon
+to hear Chileans from the mainland speak with disrespect of the
+Chilotes, whom they accuse of stupidity and indolence, lethargy, and
+love of dirtiness; many hardly consider them as fellow creatures; in
+any case, they consider them inferior to themselves. And the Chilotes
+answer by not wanting to be styled _Chilenos_--they are Chilotes,
+and nothing more. I dare say it is quite as good. You must not judge
+them till you know the conditions under which they live. Chiloé is
+covered by impenetrable primeval forests and soaked by deluges of
+rains; the annual rainfall amounts to from 78 to 100 inches or even
+more. Cultivation has not been able to clear more than a narrow strip
+along the coast; the forest almost refuses to burn, and how cut it
+down and get it away when there are no roads? To make a road is much
+too laborious an enterprise for the private individual, and once made
+it demands continual expenditure or at once it is changed into a
+bottomless ditch of tough clay. And I believe the Chilote has one big
+fault: he has little ambition. If he has his bit of shore, where some
+wheat and his principal food, potatoes, grow, some small horses, cows,
+and sheep, then he is contented--more than that, he is a rich man.
+What is barely enough to maintain life upon he is able to gain with
+a minimum of work. The sea gives him plenty; at low tide he gathers
+shellfish and sea-urchins, cochayuyo (_Durvillea_, a gigantic brown
+kelp), and luche (_Ulva_, a green alga), the oyster-banks provide a
+delicious dish, and there is any amount of fish. It is not at all
+surprising that he has little interest for agriculture. Modern methods
+are unknown to him; his plough is of pre-Columbian type. He boils
+his potatoes or roasts them, makes his soup of mutton or fowl, brews
+_chicha_ from his small apples, and lives happy in the house of his
+ancestors. The roof is thatched and without a vent-hole for smoke,
+there is an earthen floor, and the windows often have no panes. Besides
+the members of the family, pigs are found within, and furniture is very
+scarce. Sometimes there is a separate cook-house of almost the shape
+of a round tent. Should the Chilote become ambitious or eager to save
+money, he seldom clears more ground to enlarge his estate, but leaves
+one element, the forest, and takes to the next, the sea. He is a born
+sailor; from childhood he has gone with his father in an open boat,
+made long journeys to look for fur-seals or valuable timber, especially
+alerce. He loves the sea, he travels all over the world, but is usually
+driven back to the old place, for his heart clings to the forest, the
+potatoes, and oysters of the big island of Chiloé.
+
+It may be true that his character shows more than one defect, that
+he is too little ambitious, and often lives for the day without any
+higher aspirations; nevertheless a stranger who comes to his house
+is attracted by his kindly hospitality and childish mind, and, if he
+learns to know him in his proper element, cannot help admiring him.
+Who can match him in living in the dismal forest for weeks or months,
+working hard, and getting up as soaked with rain as he goes to sleep,
+walking mile after mile over the most terrible ground, finding a
+foothold on slippery logs with a heavy load, cutting his way through
+the bamboo-thickets, or navigating the rapid, dangerous rivers? And all
+without other provisions than some _charqui_ (dried meat) and _harina
+tostada_ (coarse, roasted oatmeal).
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The first days of our stay we made short excursions round Ancud and
+to the Lacuy Peninsula, in order to get acquainted with the natural
+features, which were in many respects new to us. I shall not trouble
+the reader with a detailed account of them, merely giving a brief
+description of a ride to the west coast, the only time we saw the open
+ocean here. One can hardly speak of a road; one simply follows the
+shore from the town, if possible at low tide. At high tide one has to
+grope one’s way in the water for some stretches, where glass-smooth
+rocks and hidden stones give horse and rider enough to think of. In
+one place progress is impossible; we strike on and follow a real
+road, winding across a steep hill down to the water again. From the
+top we had a splendid view over the bay, and forgot for one moment
+the miserable state of the road. It looks like a system of parallel
+ditches, where the mud reaches to the horse’s knees; the furrows are so
+narrow that now and then he has to plant a hoof on the slippery wall to
+keep his balance, and if he tries to walk on the ridge between them he
+slides down every second minute, bespattering you all over with dirt.
+We were glad to leave the hill behind, and galloped along the beach,
+where the rattling gravel flew whirling about the horses’ hoofs. A dull
+rush sang in our ears--the Pacific Ocean thundered towards us, rolling
+in over sandbanks and rocks. Snow-white guttered the sand-beach; one
+wave after the other rolled in, was broken into foam, and died at our
+feet.
+
+It was Sunday and fine weather, many people were out for a walk,
+and various figures looked into the little inn where we sat waiting
+for our dinner. The landlord, a young and very good-looking fellow,
+spoke Spanish with a French accent; his French wife promised to do
+her best--she could always offer us oysters, bread and butter, and a
+glass of Chilean wine. By mere chance we heard that their name was
+Dreyfus, and soon got to know that the husband’s father, who lives
+in Ancud, was a cousin of the famous ex-prisoner of Devil’s Island.
+Another of our fresh acquaintances, who sat at dinner with us, told us
+that his business was to hunt whale in the old-fashioned manner, only
+using rowing-boats and hand-harpoons. One does not very often find
+that method in use in this age of whaling-steamers and shell-cannons.
+But if there was traffic on the roads, the bay, generally crowded
+with oyster-fishers, was the more empty. The oysters are small, but
+very delicious, and for ten pesos you get a good bagful. Every month
+millions of them are exported to Valparaiso; on arrival there they are
+not so good, but certainly much more expensive. When I told a Chilote
+how much we pay for oysters in Sweden he shook his head, laughed, and
+put on a very doubtful air.
+
+We returned by moonlight; it was low tide, and without any obstacle we
+could gallop along over the wet, glistening beach, and were soon back
+in our modest quarters.
+
+It is a laborious matter to penetrate into the virgin interior of
+Chiloé. As we were anxious to see the primeval forest we were glad to
+accept an invitation to visit a settlement on Rio Pudeto; the owner was
+to take us there on his steam-launch. The day fixed for the excursion
+came with fine weather. Opposite Chiloé, on the other side of the Gulf
+of Corcovado, the coast lay absolutely clear, presenting one of the
+most beautiful pictures I ever beheld. High above the dark belt of
+forest the long row of giant volcanoes, Osorno, Calbuco, Huequi, Yate,
+Minchinmahuida, raise their snow-clad crowns. The landscape round the
+mouth of Pudeto is also worthy of attention. The entrance is about half
+a mile wide; the shores are muddy, and large herds of flamingoes walk
+solemnly round poking with their beaks after food; when we approach
+they take to flight all together, sail away like a pink cloud, and
+alight again with flapping wings, which flash black and crimson.
+
+The tides reach far up the river several miles inland, and at the
+entrance there is a current of some knots. It was with a favouring
+tide and at the speed of a racer that we approached the low wooden
+bridge across the broad water. The space between the pillars is small,
+and without a warning our noble craft was thrown against one of them;
+the gunwale got stove in, and there we lay as though nailed to the
+pier. There was no choice but to wait with patience till the current
+should turn. However, it is not so easy to be patient when one is half
+starved, and we had slipped away without any breakfast and carried
+no provisions. Not until the afternoon did we manage to get off, and
+steamed peacefully up the river, now a narrow channel of open water,
+winding between wide-stretching banks of reeds. In the twilight all
+details were soon obliterated, the sky glowed with the most beautiful
+colours, and a white fog settled down over the yellow swamps. It was
+pitch-dark when at last we groped our way to the half-built house,
+where a party of friendly grinning Chilotes took us in. Finally, at
+nine o’clock dinner was ready, but it consisted almost exclusively of
+potatoes. Never before in my life did I eat so much of this wholesome
+root. Chiloé and potatoes--these two ideas are indissolubly linked
+together in my mind. It is one of the native countries of _Solanum
+tuberosum_, and perhaps it is still possible to find wild specimens in
+the coast region. Large quantities are exported, and I daresay more
+than a hundred different varieties are cultivated on the island, each
+with a different name.
+
+In a dark closet Halle and I got a bed each, but in spite of being
+tired we did not sleep much, for our bedfellows were far too numerous
+and too lively.
+
+The next day we went into the forest. It was of the agreeable variety
+that one finds on sandy and comparatively dry soil. It was the middle
+of winter, but everything was fresh and green; nothing reminded us
+of death or rest; even flowers were to be seen. High above us the
+heads of the trees closed over, and a dull, half-mysterious light
+filtered through the dense foliage. What a difference between this
+forest and the one in the Patagonian Channels! Variety instead of
+monotony, trees of very large dimensions and of many kinds hitherto
+unknown to me filling the air with strong aromatic scent. Ferns of all
+sizes and shapes clothe the trunks, a large _Rhodostachys bicolor_
+(_Bromeliacea_) sits high up on the branches, and thick-stemmed
+creepers climb towards the sky, where bright-coloured bunches of
+flowers peep out of green clusters. In the brushwood below several old
+friends reappear, but also new ones, _Berberis Darwinii_ and other
+armed enemies of the explorer, large miniature forests of bamboo
+(_Chusquea colihue_), with yellowish-green, polished stems. Out in the
+open we find the _quila_ (_Chusquea quila_), tough, rough, and prickly,
+but for all its disagreeable characteristics an important winter food
+for cattle. All was silent but for the song of some smaller birds. In
+vain we hoped that the pretty little _pudú_, the deer of Chiloé, would
+turn up. In old times guanaco and huemul are said to have lived here,
+but they must have disappeared long ago.
+
+We returned overland to Ancud, following the highway from Castro. The
+ill-famed weather was still nice, and round the dirty huts children and
+a motley company of animals swarmed. Never a border, a flower in the
+window or a curtain, nowhere an effort at making the home comfortable.
+The Chilote does not seem to have any appreciation of things of that
+sort. The nearer we came to the town the more people we met on the
+road: bullock-carts of the characteristic type, with wheels of one
+solid wooden block and a wooden shaft, toil their way slowly through
+the stiff clay; loaded with all sorts of parcels, an old woman comes
+riding on a small, shaggy horse; a white-bearded old fellow hobbles
+barefoot in the mud, tenderly embracing a bottle recently acquired in
+the town.
+
+On our arrival we got important news: the Government steamer _Valdivia_
+was in! And smeared with clay high up on my thighs, and equipped in
+all the elegance characteristic of the tramp, I had to receive a visit
+from the commander, who presented himself to put the steamer at our
+disposal. In order to survey a larger stretch round the Corcovado
+Gulf we had asked the Government to help us; with the answer from
+Valparaiso in my hand I turned to Commodore K. Maldonado, well known
+for geographical explorations of the Chilean coasts. He was stationed
+in Puerto Montt, and had two steamers there for nautical surveying
+purposes. He answered immediately by sending us the _Valdivia_. The
+next morning, July 18, we steered out of the bay--by the way, a rather
+bad harbour--passed the whirlpools of Canal Chacao, and thence followed
+the west coast, where civilization has set its stamp everywhere. On the
+evening of the following day we arrived at Castro, and there we found
+the _Toro_ before us. That was good luck, our first task being to find
+that steamer and go aboard her, because the _Valdivia_ was not fit for
+the rather dangerous waters we were to visit. Our new steamer wanted a
+day to coal and provision, which gave us a good opportunity to have a
+look at the town, a title with which the place is honoured. Castro
+is, however, a historic place. Founded in 1567, it remained the capital
+of Chiloé until 1768, and has a big church and a convent to remind it
+of past, glorious days. Otherwise it makes a miserable impression,
+with its ruinous houses and wretched streets, where the wayfarer finds
+many dangerous pitfalls. I must recommend one of the night _cafés_.
+We entered on an earthen floor, sat down on a filthy bench by the
+traditional fire-pan, and a roughly used Chilote woman with a baby at
+the breast served us with some very doubtful, poisonous mixtures. Soon
+a rotund old woman came in, took a glass with us, and put life into the
+conversation. They knew, of course, who we were; gossip is not at all
+lacking in Castro.
+
+[Illustration: THE FAMOUS CORCOVADO.]
+
+Under the command of Captain J. E. Merino, the _Toro_ left Castro on
+July 21, and after a short visit to Quellon we arrived at San Pedro
+Island, at the south-eastern corner of Chiloé. This place is not
+inhabited, but we found some Chilotes there busy cutting down big
+trees. Two of them came on board in the evening. The weather had been
+tolerably good, but showed signs of getting bad, and probably we should
+have stopped where we were, waiting till it had settled again, if the
+two Chilotes had not prophesied a fine day for our visit to the Isle of
+Huafo, far away out in the open sea.
+
+It blew hard north when we left the cove and the rain poured down.
+Enormous waves rose high above the little steamer, which is smaller
+even than the _Huemul_; the wind increased, a fog came on, and after
+a short consultation we resolved to seek shelter in the only place
+available, the Huapiquilan Islands. Not one of the officers had ever
+visited these remote islands, and I daresay the occasion to make their
+acquaintance was not very well chosen--had there been any choice!
+
+Without adventure we managed to get in between them, and found the
+necessary shelter from the storm, that now raged with full force. The
+next morning we still had a gale of wind, but not so bad as the day
+before, and we resolved to try to reach Huafo. Instantly a heavy sea
+met us, and as soon as we lost the shelter of land we got as much as
+we could stand. It was a grand sight. We were half drowned in floods
+of water, and the port lifeboat was very nearly carried away by a
+tremendous wave. We had hard work to stand upright on deck, clinging to
+the irons of the bridge. The gunwales were under water all the time;
+a lot of things on deck broke loose and danced round with the eddying
+waters. When we reached Samuel Cove, the only--and hardly useful--berth
+on the island, the wind had increased still more; later we were told
+that the anemometer on the lighthouse had indicated 114 feet per sec.
+It was high time for us to get shelter; but do not think that for this
+reason we got a calm night! The small, open bay is full of shoals, and
+there is no room to swing; but with two anchors down and a thick hawser
+round some big trees on the shore we slept tolerably well in spite of
+the considerable motion. Next day the storm continued, and we landed in
+the surf at the mouth of a stream, along which we wanted to penetrate
+into the virgin forest. Not very often have I seen such luxuriance
+in a temperate climate. Mosses appeared in incredible quantities,
+the ferns had stems of a man’s height, bamboo surrounded us in all
+directions. The foliage glittered with moisture, the moss-carpet was
+like a swamp, and we soon became drenched to the skin. Showers of rain
+or hail completed the situation.
+
+On board the crew had been collecting sea-urchins, and at dinner
+we made a feast off these delicacies, which are highly appreciated
+in Chile. In the alimentary canal of the sea-urchin a rather large
+parasitic crustacean often takes up its quarters, thus leading a most
+comfortable life. This animal is considered extremely delicious, and
+is eaten alive and kicking. I ate one once, but never again! It had a
+horrible taste, and besides was really unpleasant to have to do with,
+being about an inch and a half broad.
+
+The following day the weather had settled somewhat; we resolved to try
+the lighthouse, which is situated high up on a precipitous cliff. We
+brought provisions and the mail, which were landed in a nasty surf.
+Outside the sea was still very heavy, and we anchored in a shallow bay,
+where the motion would allow us to have our luncheon. From the ship we
+got sight of some white spots moving along the beach; they were wild
+dogs of a kind that has lived on this island for centuries. They are
+about the size of a setter, have long hair, and are dirty white in
+colour. They are very shy. Probably they live on birds and their eggs,
+but are said also to eat shellfish.
+
+It was already three o’clock before we could weigh again in order to
+go back to Huapiquilan. The sky in the south-west looked threatening,
+but we hoped to get out, in spite of the big sea reducing our speed
+considerably. But before we had time to think the gale came rushing
+on, a raging wind with squalls of hail, wrapping us in an impenetrable
+haze. It was getting dark, the sky was black as soot, and with forced
+speed, as much as the boiler could stand, we made for the harbour.
+Then came a squall heavier than the rest, the _Toro_ trembled under
+the frightful blow, giant hailstones whipped our face and made it
+hardly possible to keep our eyes open, darkness hid everything. Some
+thrilling seconds ensued. We were amidst the reefs--but the fog lifted
+for a moment, giving us time enough to rush through the narrow gap, the
+entrance to the berth. We were not five minutes too soon; night had
+overtaken us!
+
+Between sunken rocks, over which the sea broke into pillars of foam, we
+headed for San Pedro again on July 27. I intended to make an excursion
+in the forest, and I made the captain and a young lieutenant come
+with me, promising them an experience that might prove new to them.
+I myself was prepared for whatever should come--for Darwin in his
+journals has erected an epitaph over San Pedro forest which is not
+likely to be misunderstood. We had to climb a very steep slope. The
+fallen trees do not decay very rapidly, but form immense barricades,
+especially round the numerous streams; as usual they are enveloped in
+a soaked moss-carpet, and mosses also hang down in long festoons from
+the branches and wash your face. We seldom put our feet on the ground,
+but climbed like monkeys from one trunk to the next, balancing over
+the abyss. Deep down, as deep as 20 feet below, we caught sight of a
+muddy, reddish clay, with which we now and then had to make closer
+acquaintance as a log suddenly broke and we were sent down headlong,
+only to gain the lofty path once more by creeping and crawling on
+hands and knees. A hatchet was kept going cutting the innumerable
+creepers which caught arms and legs, and our perseverance was put to a
+protracted test. Frequent squalls enlivened our adventures. The poor
+lieutenant had to be left behind quite exhausted; we rested a few
+minutes and found new strength in some cold meat and a piece of bread,
+and then took up the battle again. After a strenuous climb on our hands
+and knees we gained a ridge, whence I had hoped to get a good view of
+the island, but alas! there was another valley in front of us, and
+behind it the next ridge. My comrades were not very anxious to go any
+further, but as I insisted on it they followed. The valley swallowed us
+up, and we reached the other side, and came out of the high forest and
+into a new kind of vegetation, that is called by the natives _tepual_,
+a tremendous hedge. Every time we came to a clear space we had to
+stop to breathe. On the top of this ridge were extensive swamps with
+scattered cypresses (_Libocedrus tetragona_) with the _tepú_ (_Tepualia
+stipularis_). We had gained a height of 1600 feet, more or less, snow
+was falling thickly, and it was late enough to make us turn back. Half
+unrecognizable under the mud, with scratched faces and hands and our
+clothes torn to rags, we reached the beach once more. The captain had
+hardly any trousers left--but certainly a naval officer’s uniform was
+not made for the forest of San Pedro.
+
+In order to cross the gulf we first had to visit Quellon to coal.
+There is a sawmill there, and the company’s steamer was in. We found
+the captain to be a Swede, Mr. T. Landgren, who had also camped with
+Captain Merino on one of the Chilean men-of-war; he was one of the
+Swedes sent out at the request of the Chilean Government to serve as
+_pilotos_ in the navy, which he had left to enter into private service.
+He was not a little astonished to meet countrymen here, and we rightly
+celebrated the occasion with a big dinner on board his vessel.
+
+As Halle wanted to visit Queilen for geological investigations we also
+spent one day at that place. The small idyllic village, once called
+“the end of Christianity,” has a large wooden church and a square
+_plaza_, where fat pigs had made themselves comfortable in the green
+grass.
+
+The last day of July came bright and frosty, the air was clear, and we
+crossed the gulf, steaming for Mount Corcovado, “el famoso,” as this
+old volcano is sometimes styled. Few summits are more imposing than
+this one, with its precipitous peak shining like snow-white enamel
+against the blue background. We wanted to land at the foot, but found
+this easier said than done. The beach falls off at a rather sharp angle
+and the surf is strong enough to play with the coarse shingle; in our
+little yawl we could not venture to approach. Fortunately a small
+river flows out close by, and as the sea did not break on the barrier
+at its mouth we went in with a rush on a wave and stepped on shore.
+The _Toro_ looked for an anchorage here, but did not find any, and we
+had to steam up to the entrance of the large Yelcho river, where there
+is good shelter behind an island. The place was inhabited, a company
+for a combined sawmill industry and colonization enterprise having its
+headquarters there.
+
+At the river some years ago a Chilean surveying party had its station,
+and a road was said to follow the shore inland. Of course we wanted
+to make use of this, and started early the next day in the settled
+belief of being able to walk on a road. After a while we found it,
+broad enough for a bullock-cart--but the joy did not last long. A few
+hundred yards and the noble highway dwindled suddenly into a narrow
+path, from which only the worst obstacles had been removed! The forest
+is so swampy that one cannot walk there during the rainy season, and
+therefore the road is plastered with logs sometimes right across, when
+you jump from one to the next, sometimes longitudinally, and then you
+have to balance--generally there is only _one_ log. Some places were
+quite dreadful; the logs were gone, and we sank down knee-deep at once;
+others were transformed into bottomless lagoons where we had to stop
+to pick our way. But as the day passed we grew more skilful in keeping
+our balance than we had ever been in our lives before. At last the path
+disappeared in a bamboo thicket; probably nobody had been here for many
+years. We crawled through, found the path again, and went down to the
+river, which is one of the largest in West Patagonia. We returned in
+the twilight with a good lot of botanical collections, took the last
+barricade, and came down to the colony.
+
+From Yelcho we went to the beautiful Reñihue Fiord, and thence returned
+to Castro, where my comrades stopped in order to ride to Ancud; forced
+by circumstances, I returned there without delay, and despatched the
+_Toro_. Few of our excursions have left such agreeable memories as
+this one with the naval officers, who were always ready to render
+every service possible. We took farewell of them as of old friends,
+soon found but never forgotten. On August 10 we went on board the
+_Vestfold_, passing Ancud on the way to Valparaiso.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+IN THE HEART OF CHILE
+
+
+During the following weeks we got an opportunity of seeing quite new
+features of Chile. Hitherto we had almost exclusively travelled in
+parts where civilization had not reached or was quite new--the big
+island of Chiloé excepted; but the difference between the poor places
+there and the towns we now visited was certainly enormous.
+
+The more important towns are generally situated on the coast or very
+near it, and sometimes so close that only a few hours’ journey by
+steamer separates them. Most of them do not offer much of interest to
+a travelling European; they do not afford any historical memories or
+examples of art and architecture, and they are not the right places if
+one wishes to see Chilean customs. On board the _Vestfold_ we passed
+several towns. Already elsewhere I have mentioned that we visited
+Valdivia, with its port, Corral. The last-named little town has a very
+picturesque situation, and can boast of some ruins of the Spanish
+fortress. Industry is beginning to flourish; a Norwegian whaling
+company has a station there, and a French syndicate was just building
+large electric furnaces to melt down the Chilean iron ores. Valdivia,
+situated at some distance from the coast, on the Calle-calle river,
+is a German town. Everywhere you met German faces, German signboards
+and placards alongside the Spanish. There is a large German school, a
+church and various _Vereine_, large shoe-factories, and, of course,
+breweries. It gives an impression of a rapidly increasing community.
+After the great fire last year a large part of the town will be rebuilt
+on a much grander scale than before. But Valdivia is especially
+famous for its streets. Situated in one of the rainiest parts of
+Chile, surrounded by luxuriant forests, the town literally drips with
+moisture, and the streets have hardly passed the state of the forest
+soil. One can only cross at certain places, where wooden causeways are
+laid, and we saw the horses wade up to their bellies in the mud, the
+wheels of the carts almost disappearing.
+
+In Coronel our expedition divided again. Halle was kindly taken care of
+by the Swedish Vice-Consul, Mr. G. Granfelt, and during the following
+weeks dedicated himself to a geological survey of the interesting
+coal-mines in the province of Arauco; he made his headquarters in
+Coronel, Lota, and Lebu, and obtained very valuable results. Certainly
+all of us took the chance of visiting the famous park in Lota. This,
+as well as a part of the town itself and the coal-mines, are the
+property of the family Cousiño. Unfortunately, the park is not as
+well kept as it used to be, and is also spoilt by a palace with four
+façades in four different styles, and by dozens of spurious statues of
+a very suspiciously German origin. From Lota, Quensel and I went to
+Concepción, a larger town of pure European stamp, and from there by
+electric tramway to its port, Talcahuano, the naval port of Chile,
+and the only good harbour north of Chiloé. There we went on board the
+_Vestfold_ once more. On August 14 Valparaiso spread out over the
+narrow beach, and, climbing high up on the many hills behind, lay
+before us, and between the hundreds of steamers and sailing-vessels we
+were conducted to an anchorage.
+
+[Illustration: VALDIVIA.]
+
+[Illustration: HARBOUR AT VALPARAISO.]
+
+The principal reason for our visit here was that we intended to make an
+excursion to the Juan Fernandez Islands, which we accomplished between
+August 20 and 31. We had prepared it long before, and Captain Löwenborg
+pleaded our case so well that Admiral Montt put at our disposal the
+large and comfortable transport vessel the _Casma_. Before the trip
+was undertaken, and also after our return, we found ample time to see
+both Valparaiso and Santiago, with their scientific institutes, and
+also to make a couple of longer excursions. In 1906, the year of the
+great earthquake, Valparaiso was on every one’s tongue. Two years had
+elapsed since that tremendous catastrophe, but numerous traces were
+still left, especially as the authorities have seized the opportunity
+partly to re-plan the town, which somewhat delayed the rebuilding of
+waste streets. Everywhere, even in the blocks that had suffered but
+little, one could discover filled-up cracks in the walls. In Valparaiso
+several Swedes live, but only in Santiago could one speak of a real
+Swedish colony. It counts some very prominent members. I need only
+mention a couple of the most able officers in the army, Colonel Ekdahl
+and Lieutenant-Colonel Schönmeyr, or the director of gymnastics, Mr. J.
+Billing, late lieutenant in the Swedish army. The reception given to
+us by our countrymen in Santiago will always remain one of the most
+agreeable memories of our journey.
+
+Santiago is famous for its situation at the foot of the Andes. I
+daresay there is nothing in the world like its racecourse, with snowy
+peaks and crests many thousand feet high as decoration. I am afraid,
+however, that the fine view does not account for the enormous number of
+people there.
+
+Nature in Central Chile is truly different from all we had seen before
+of that country. The climate is warm and dry, even on the coast; only
+in the valleys of the coast cordillera is there forest, formed by a
+number of fine trees, most of which I had not met with before. On the
+plateaus and ridges the reddish soil shines through, and with its
+peculiar plants, amongst them the large pillar-cactus (_Cereus_), it
+gives the impression of a semi-desert. One ought to see, as we did,
+these parts in springtime, when beautiful lilies, orchids, &c., adorn
+the earth. With the approach of summer they go to sleep.
+
+Between Valparaiso and Santiago one passes one of the sources of wealth
+in Chile, the central valley between the two mountain ranges--vast
+prairies, thousands of cattle and large vineyards everywhere. Through
+the kindness of the Transandino Railway Company we visited the
+much-spoken-of tunnel joining Chile and Argentina, and at the same
+time a grand mountain district. The railway starts from the small
+town Los Andes. Here we have a typical Chilean country town, with low
+white, pink, or light blue buildings of one storey, mostly not very
+well kept, long brown earthen walls, broken and picturesque--how
+well the flowering peach-trees stand out against the dark clay! The
+sun scorches, there are clouds of thick brown dust over the streets,
+covering the willows and their opening buds, marring the finery of
+the horsemen. It is _dia de fiesta_, the birthday of the Holy Virgin;
+dark-faced Don Juans, with trappings and enormous spurs of silver,
+embroidered leggings and many-coloured, homespun poncho, gallop towards
+the garlanded triumphal arches forming a walk up to the church. Evening
+steals upon Los Andes, life dozes off, only now and then the faint
+notes of a guitar reach us. The sun sinks, the mountains glow in the
+last beams, then the outlines fade away, snow-patches and bare rock
+melt together into a blue haze and darken to deep night. The moon
+rises, drowning the peach-blossom in floods of silver, everything dusty
+and ugly disappears in the soft lustre. But a strenuous day is in store
+for us, and we are forced regretfully to go to sleep.
+
+The train winds up the valley of Aconcagua, lined with gay groves,
+adorned by many flowers; the river sinks deeper and deeper, the air
+grows thin, pure, and cool. The rack commences, higher and higher we
+rise. In Juncal our special train was stopped. The line was ready for
+another nine and a half miles, but as work was going on in two of
+the thirteen tunnels on this stretch we had to mount the mules kept
+in readiness for us. Besides the guide, Mr. Curtis, whom the company
+had sent with us, we got an additional member for our party, the
+police-sergeant in Juncal; the road was not considered safe just then,
+and the police wanted to be at hand in case anything should happen.
+We rose in an eternal zigzag line; in all directions we enjoyed grand
+scenery, but Nature was still in the grip of winter. At some distance
+we passed Laguna del Inca, one of the most beautiful mountain lakes I
+ever saw, and late in the evening we arrived at the entrance of the
+tunnel, Caracoles, where we were invited to dinner by the English
+engineer; we had a merry time, and from the gramophone horn Melba and
+Caruso competed for our favour.
+
+Each of us got on a pair of rubber boots and had a lamp to carry, and
+we splashed into the tunnel, where work was going on day and night,
+and where we got an idea of how a tunnel is made. The total length,
+1·9 miles, was evidently not very considerable, but the loose quality
+of the rock made work very difficult. At the time of our visit a thick
+wall still separated the two republics; last year, however, the first
+train passed under the enormous mass of the Andes. We were glad to get
+out into the cold night air once more, and sit down and enjoy some
+whisky and a pipe of tobacco.
+
+Life among the labourers and the scum of mankind seeking its way
+across the Uspallata pass is rather wild. A few weeks before our
+arrival eleven men left Caracoles to cross to the Argentine side.
+They never got there. They appeared, however, when the snow melted;
+for every spring, when the road across is put in order, the bodies
+of those who have disappeared during the winter are found, frozen to
+ice, partly robbed of their clothes, sometimes with the pockets turned
+inside out--murdered, robbed, and simply left. The soil of that pass
+is literally soaked with the blood of the victims of assassins and
+highwaymen.
+
+When traffic is open it is no risk for the railway passengers to
+cross. More than 30 feet of snow have been recorded near the pass, and
+during the winter the railway has not hitherto been used. Traffic had
+not begun, the road lay partly under snow and ice, but with a guide
+as excellent as ours we did not hesitate to cross. We had a splendid
+morning on September 10. The ground was frozen hard, the ice jingled
+like broken glass under the hoofs of our mules. With uncommon agility
+they passed the most dangerous places, of which there was no lack. The
+sergeant made a halt at a small stone house he wanted to inspect, took
+his carbine with the air of an official, and entered, but was soon
+back, there being no traces of the rascals he was looking for. The thin
+air made us feel a slight pressure across the temples, but otherwise
+it did not affect us. We reached the pass, _la cumbre_, on a height
+of 13,000 feet, thus having a good deal of our globe under our feet.
+Some few steps from us is the gigantic statue of Christ, erected as
+a monument to the eternal peace between the two republics, but not a
+living soul, not a blade of grass, only rock and snow.
+
+With legs stiff, so that the loose sand whirled round them, our mules
+slide down the most westerly slopes of Argentina, and we reached Las
+Cuevas, the entrance to the tunnel on the Argentine side. From there
+we continued our ride and passed the valley where Aconcagua, hitherto
+regarded as the highest mountain in America, makes the background.
+Huascarán is now said to compete for the honour, but as the proofs are
+not sufficient we took off our caps and bowed to his Alpine majesty.
+In Baño del Inca, where one has to cross the famous natural bridge, we
+tried the sulphur baths; no doubt we were the very first visitors that
+year. We turned round and slept in Las Cuevas, and the next morning Mr.
+Curtis and I crossed to Chile again, Quensel waiting till the next day.
+Our journey from Caracoles to Los Andes was rather original; with fine
+disdain for the train, we used a trolley. Down we went, sometimes at
+a breakneck speed, but the intense feeling of freedom made us forget
+the risk. The line for long stretches runs on narrow shelves, cut in
+the steep mountain-sides; derailment would mean instantaneous death.
+Further down we were very nearly run over by a train, and just had time
+to throw ourselves and the trolley off the rail. Situations rapidly
+change in this world: in the morning we experienced a temperature of
+several degrees below freezing-point on the high crests of the desolate
+Cordillera; at night that same day we were enjoying the tepid air
+between the park trees in a big city.
+
+From another excursion to the coast at Zapallar, north of Valparaiso,
+I returned just in time to take part in the great national feast, from
+September 18 to 20, the anniversary of the Declaration of Independence,
+1810. It is a real people’s feast, celebrated with the same enthusiasm
+by all classes of society. Aristocracy has its processions, _Te Deum_,
+races, and military parades, the people dance _la cueca_ and drink
+_chicha_ in the parks all night long. I could not deny that the
+air itself was really filled with a feeling of festivity, the whole
+country being decorated with banners of all colours, garlands, and
+triumphal arches, while on the railway the engines were adorned with
+green leaves, flowers, and flags, and everywhere were heard patriotic
+speeches and the playing of bands. And for three whole days no one who
+is not forced to does any work.
+
+When Halle had finished his work he joined us in Santiago, and,
+using the great central railway, running longitudinally through the
+Valle Central, we went to Valdivia once more. In Corral we took a
+passenger steamer; it was the _Teno_, with a Swede, Mr. Boklund, as
+captain--another late _piloto_, who had left the navy after some years’
+service. Again we visited Ancud, said good-bye to all our friends
+there, took on board our equipment, and crossed the gulf to Puerto
+Montt, where we were now going to prepare the expedition overland
+through the whole of Patagonia.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+ROBINSON CRUSOE’S ISLAND
+
+
+Far out in the Pacific Ocean, 360 nautical miles west of Valparaiso,
+lies a small island, called Juan Fernandez, or Masatierra (_i.e._,
+Nearer Land); another 96 miles further out we find a second rocky
+islet, bearing the name of Masafuera (= Further Away); and at the
+west end of Masatierra a much smaller islet, Santa Clara, rises out
+of the breakers. These three islands together form the Juan Fernandez
+group. From the first moment I got to know anything about the nature
+and plant-life of this highly remarkable place and saw a photograph
+of Masatierra, I had longed to go there--without any hope whatever
+of getting nearer to it than dreaming of that scientist’s paradise.
+When, in 1907, I left Sweden on my second long journey I had not the
+slightest idea that one year later I should in fact land on Juan
+Fernandez. Through the valuable assistance of the Chilean authorities
+we had been able to save much time, new schemes arose, and the idea
+of being able to realize my dream of bygone days made my heart beat
+with expectation. Negotiations were opened, with the result already
+mentioned above.
+
+The _Casma_ was a good vessel of 4000 tons and very spacious; saloons
+and cabins were large and comfortable. Her commander was Captain F.
+Dublé, of the Chilean navy; we shall never forget his kindness and the
+courtesy of his officers.
+
+At daybreak on August 22 a sailor came into my cabin to announce that
+Masatierra had been sighted. We came on the bridge in haste, anxious
+to behold the wonderland. At a distance it looked like any other wild,
+storm-beaten, rocky island, and I cannot say that this impression
+weakened as we approached. The sky-high peaks, the valleys with
+their precipitous slopes, the breakers rolling in on broken cliffs,
+everything gave an almost repulsive impression of desolation. However,
+it soon greatly modified as we came into the open harbour, Cumberland
+Bay, where bright green patches showed up on the slopes interspersed
+with patches of the naked red soil, where dark forests stretched
+high up in the valleys and over the ridges, and where a cluster of
+small wooden huts, here and there with a piece of garden, showed that
+here also the human race had found means of subsistence, perhaps of
+happiness.
+
+We set our foot on the shore of a legendary island. Dear reader, do
+you remember how the wonderful fortunes and adventures of Robinson
+Crusoe interested you, when you were a small boy or girl and went to
+the infant school? Did you not dream that it rained drops “large as
+pigeon’s eggs,” or that you discovered on the sandy sea-shore those
+footprints making your blood curdle with terror? How the tale of
+Robinson excited the imagination at the same time that it taught us so
+many useful things!
+
+Perhaps many of us would feel disappointment when landed on Robinson’s
+island. Where is the tropical luxuriance, where are the parrots,
+monkeys, and tortoises, where the descendants of Friday’s people?
+Well, certainly Defoe let fancy run away with him; he has adorned his
+island with all the richness of the tropics, and makes his hero land
+there under the most dramatic circumstances. But I myself did not think
+of the difference between truth and fiction; the former seemed to me
+wonderful enough, and I was seized by a feeling of pure joy when I
+thought that I was really here, walking about on that soil, and able to
+live through the favourite book of early childhood again.
+
+Masatierra is a steep, rocky island, with an area of only 38 square
+miles. When you are down at the harbour the chances for excursions
+seem rather limited, for the slopes rise high and steep all round. In
+reality one stands on the bottom of an old volcano, surrounded by its
+semicircular wall, out of which some parts, such as the precipitous
+Pico Central and the Yunque (certainly deserving its name, “The
+Anvil”), rise more distinctly. The last one, with a height of 3040
+feet, is the highest summit. Thanks to some narrow paths, running in
+zigzag, it is possible to get out of the crater and cross the ridges,
+and thus reach the bays on both sides. Many slopes, however, are not
+possible to climb, and the name of one of the crests, Salsipuedes,
+which means “try to get out if you can,” reminds one of this.
+
+The spot to which the stranger first makes his way is Portezuelo de
+Villagra, a sharp gap in the southern ridge, where Robinson is said
+to have climbed to look out over the ocean. Following the dirty roads
+between the houses, we ascend slowly till we come to the many-coloured,
+steep slopes of volcanic tufas and the path disappears in a thicket of
+maqui. The maqui (_Aristotelia_) has been imported from the continent
+in late years, and this disagreeable tree is now spreading rapidly,
+threatening the original vegetation with annihilation. However, it does
+not reach very far, and we soon got rid of it. We now start to climb
+the steep mountain-wall, where the path winds along in a very sharp
+zigzag; one can sometimes jump down directly into one path from the
+next above it.
+
+It is time to have a look at the peculiar natural features round us.
+From a botanical point of view Juan Fernandez is one of the world’s
+most famous places. It is often the case that islands lying far away
+from the great continents exhibit a marvellous animal and plant life,
+containing genera and species not found elsewhere--endemic, as they are
+called; in this respect Juan Fernandez is perhaps only surpassed by the
+Sandwich Islands. About 65 per cent. of the total number of vascular
+plants (phanerogams and ferns) are confined to that small group of
+isles. It is as if one had been carried back to past geological
+periods, as if one walked about in a living museum, crowded with rare
+specimens. So many wonderful plants are brought together here on a
+small area that one must touch them to realize that one does not dream.
+Especially worthy of attention are the small, sparingly branched
+trees with long, thin, more or less erect naked branches crowned by a
+rosette of large, thin leaves. For the most part they are members of
+the composite order, but other orders also have representatives. It is
+besides a remarkable fact that this type of organization is found also
+on other oceanic islands--the Canary Isles, for instance. The flora
+is without doubt very old, of a tertiary origin or older, and must
+have come from the South American continent, but for several reasons
+disappeared to a great extent on the mainland. The ice age cannot have
+had any influence of importance on Juan Fernandez.
+
+In the narrow gorges (_quebradas_) that we pass there is a dense and
+impenetrable primeval forest. It looks black-green, thanks to the dark
+foliage of the endemic myrtle-tree, which we found in bud and flower
+in spite of the early date of our visit. Above the other trees rises
+the masterpiece of creation, _la chonta_, the endemic palm (_Juania
+australis_). It is impossible not to caress the smooth green stem
+as one tries to get a sight of its majestic head of large pinnate
+leaves. Glorious it is, a true _princeps_ of the vegetable kingdom,
+noble from top to root. Unfortunately it is only too popular. It is
+persecuted with saw and hatchet, every ship brings away trunks and
+young plants, and it has already been exterminated from all places
+easy of access. The top is used as cabbage, the trunk is carved into
+beautiful walking-sticks, and the young plants are put in the gardens
+on the coast--in spite of the fact that we have sufficient proofs that
+the chonta cannot grow on the mainland. In 1895 Professor Johow, of
+Santiago, the most prominent specialist in the flora, proposed to the
+authorities to protect the tree in question, and I was told that there
+exists a law on the subject. However, nobody seems to take any notice
+of such a trifle.
+
+Creeping or winding plants are hardly met with, with the exception of
+a few ferns. Arboreous ferns, together with chonta and sandal-wood,
+have made the islands well known to non-scientists also. The fern flora
+is really very rich; there are all types of growth, from the mighty
+fern-trees, reminding one of mountain forests in the tropics, to the
+wonderful members of genera such as _Hymenophyllum_ and _Trichomanes_,
+thin as tissue-paper, or the creeper species adorning the trunks of the
+trees. The ferns also, especially the arboreous, are the objects of a
+reckless war of extermination; and our fellow travellers on the _Casma_
+were not better than their predecessors, though I expostulated with
+them on the matter every day. It hurt me to see one boat-load after the
+other of precious plants taken on board the steamer, most of them only
+to be wasted.
+
+We have arrived at the _portezuelo_, or Selkirk’s Lookout, as this
+picturesque spot is sometimes called. The trees are very low, or have
+been replaced by strange shrubs mingled with the curious _pangue_
+(_Gunnera peltæta_), and forming a very entangled mass. On a vertical
+mountain-wall is the tablet erected in honour of the true Robinson, the
+Scotch sailor Alexander Selkirk. The inscription runs as follows:
+
+                             IN MEMORY OF
+                          ALEXANDER SELKIRK,
+                               Mariner,
+                  A native of Largo in the county of
+                            Fife, Scotland.
+                 Who lived on this island in complete
+                       solitude, for four years
+                           and four months.
+                     He was landed from the Cinque
+                 Ports galley, 96 tons, 16 guns, a.d.
+                    1704, and was taken off in the
+                   Duke, privateer, 12th Feb. 1709.
+                He died lieutenant of H.M.S. Weymouth,
+                       a.d. 1723, aged 47 years.
+                        This tablet is erected
+                       near Selkirk’s lookout by
+                       Commodore Powell and the
+                 officers of H.M.S. Topaze, a.d. 1868.
+
+This is the historical basis of Defoe’s work. It may look somewhat
+meagre, but one can understand that poor Selkirk had to work to
+preserve his life. What a mental trial, not to hear a word spoken by
+another, not to see a human soul for four years and four months! Thus
+his fate was pretty adventurous even if told without embellishment. On
+the other hand, he left his ship at his own request, discontented with
+the life on board. Besides, he might have chosen a worse place. The
+climate is very mild, it rains just enough, snow or frost is unknown. A
+few plants are edible, and the goats, which were much more numerous in
+Selkirk’s time than they are now, provided him with fresh meat.
+
+[Illustration: ROBINSON’S LOOKOUT, WITH COMMEMORATIVE TABLET.]
+
+Through a walk lined with marvellous trees and precious ferns we pass
+the natural gate and are on the south side of the island. Down it goes,
+almost as precipitous as on the other side. We have a magnificent view
+of the coast and Santa Clara, where a tremendous surf roars. Soon we
+came out of the forest, and continued on to the barren slopes near
+the sea. The vegetation here is more like that of a steppe, with short
+grass and some heath-plants; only along the streams is there a bright
+green strip, a mosaic of gigantic pangue-leaves. And we bent the thick
+stalks at the side and drank to the health of Masatierra and Robinson
+and the whole world. There is only one way back, the way we had come;
+it was getting dark and we hurried on through showers of rain; large
+drops splashed on the heads of the rosette-trees, the soil emitted
+strong, peculiar scents. The last part of the way we slid down in the
+slippery clay.
+
+Above I happened to mention the sandal-wood. The discovery of this
+kind of wood, famous since the days of Solomon, on Juan Fernandez most
+surely attracted notice. We have no reports of it previous to 1624,
+when, according to Burney, L’Heremite reported sandal-trees in great
+number. According to another authority ships used to visit the place
+as early as 1664 to bring the valuable wood to the coast, where it was
+highly appreciated. One did not think of preserving anything; a hundred
+years later it was hardly possible to find a living tree, and in the
+beginning of last century it was regarded as extinct. No botanist had
+ever seen the leaves or flowers. Suddenly F. Philippi in Santiago got
+some fresh twigs brought to him in 1888; he found them to belong to
+the genus _Santalum_; the species being new, it received the name of
+_S. fernandezianum_. The general interest in the tree was increased,
+but nobody told where the branches came from; a living tree was still
+unknown, Only in 1892 did Johow get news of one; a colonist had found
+it in Puerto Ingles, high up in the valley. He was the first botanist
+who saw this plant. It is easily understood that I was anxious to
+become the second. How many people had looked for other specimens! All
+their efforts were fruitless; as far as we knew Johow’s tree was the
+very last. If it were still there!
+
+The man who brought Johow to the spot still lived, and after we had
+explained our purely scientific interest he promised to send his son
+with us. It would have been more than uncertain for us alone to look
+for a single tree in a valley clad with virgin forest.
+
+It is possible to climb across the ridge that separates Cumberland
+Bay from the English Harbour, but we preferred to go there with a
+well-manned boat. The landing is, as in most places on the islands,
+performed with some risk; one must jump just at the right moment, and
+there has to be a good crew in the yawl, or the boat would be thrown
+on the rocks and capsized. Perhaps I ought to mention that the place
+in question only has the _name_ of a harbour. We walked up the valley
+and made an ascent of the western side; the place is so steep that one
+is forced to grasp the trees and shrubs to get a foothold. Our guide
+stopped, looked round for a minute, down a few hundred yards, and we
+had reached our destination. The last sandal-tree. Absolutely the last
+descendant of _Santalum fernandezianum_. It is so queer to stand at the
+death-bed of a species; probably we were the last scientists who saw
+it living. We look at the old tree with a religious respect, touch the
+stem and the firm, dark green leaves--it is not only an individual, it
+is a species that is dying. It cannot last very long. There is only one
+little branch left fresh and green; the others are dead. We cut a piece
+to get specimens of the peculiar red, strongly scented wood. A photo
+was taken, I made some observations on the place, and we said good-bye.
+Should I happen to go there once more I shall not see the sandal-tree;
+it will be dead and its body cut up into precious pieces--curiosities
+taken away by every stranger.
+
+In the evening we gathered in the cavern near the shore, Robinson’s
+Grotto, as it is generally called. Maybe that Selkirk slept here
+a couple of nights; we know that he did not take up his permanent
+quarters in this place. The officers from the _Casma_ met us here,
+bringing some dinner for us. How excellent it tasted in the spirit of
+poetry lent by Robinson’s Grotto, after what in my journals is entitled
+“the day of the sandal-tree”!
+
+Early in the morning of August 26 we left Cumberland Bay, passed the
+magnificent coast cliffs, especially noteworthy at Cape Salinas,
+continued to the south-western promontory of the island, and anchored
+in Bahia del Padre. All this coast is more or less difficult of
+approach, and only in fine weather can one effect a landing. We had
+enjoyed several days of calm, and were pretty sure of success. One of
+the colonists, a Frenchman, accompanied us, bringing with him a small
+flat-bottomed boat; without this a landing would not have been safe,
+as the water is very shallow close to the cliff, where one has to
+jump ashore. There is always a heavy surf. The excursion, as usual,
+was a miniature Alpine tour. Round the coast grow fine seaweeds, and
+there was a rich animal life, so that the result of our work turned
+out very well. At nightfall we weighed anchor and made for Masafuera,
+finding ourselves outside Quebrada de las Casas, the only anchorage,
+at daybreak. Everybody on board looked forward to this visit with some
+excitement; the shore there is a steep slope, with large boulders and a
+heavy surf; several days may pass without a landing being possible, and
+in any case one must be prepared to get wet. We had very good luck.
+
+The topography of Masafuera is more peculiar still than that of
+Masatierra. Its area is less--34 square miles--but the height is more
+than double, for the summit rises to 6500 feet. Its shape is that of
+a regular cone. The top is situated in the south-western quarter; the
+north-western is occupied by a plateau, 3000 to 4500 feet high. Towards
+the east a series of narrow gorges radiate like the ribs of a fan, of
+which Quebrada de las Casas is the largest and the only one inhabited.
+From our beach we had seen some houses; we did not take any notice
+of them, but started to climb the mountain-side without delay. After
+having crossed several forest-clad ravines, we found ourselves on the
+plateau; the forest does not extend so far. Quensel had brought his
+Winchester, and soon got a chance to shoot a fine buck. Wild goats were
+numerous here.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW FROM TOP OF MASAFUERA, SHOWING CANYONS.]
+
+[Illustration: ROBINSON’S GROTTO.]
+
+The most common tree here is a kind of myrtle; it only grows on this
+island, and here takes the place of the myrtle of Masatierra. We thus
+found the same state of things as Darwin so splendidly described on
+the Galapagos Islands. The vegetation above the forest is of a very
+remarkable appearance--ferns and more ferns everywhere, groves of
+fern-trees, and a carpet of smaller species.
+
+We had crossed the island and stood above the precipice. In the most
+breakneck places goats climb with ease, leaving man behind. Below
+our feet is a bank of clouds hiding the sea; only the roar from the
+breakers reaches us. Suddenly the veil is torn asunder by a puff of
+wind, and then, right below--the depth of the abyss is 4000 feet--lies
+the ocean. Through the rents in the clouds we can see the white foam
+dancing in across a sandbank, where some wreckage shows the fate of
+a vessel that came too close. It is a striking sight of Nature’s
+greatness, that stirs the soul and is engraved for ever in the memory.
+Time and place are forgotten; but the sun sinks and it becomes
+necessary to return to our ship.
+
+As the weather continued good the _Casma_ could stop without risk--the
+place is open to all winds--and I spent the next day making excursions
+in two of the gorges, and Quensel walked round the island to the west
+coast. The valleys are truly most remarkable, cut deep down 300 to
+600 feet, and perhaps not more than 30 to 50 feet broad in the inner
+part, with sheer walls, sometimes nearly parallel. One walks in a
+natural alley, high above is a strip of the sky, and the subdued light
+illuminates the green carpet on the rocky walls. Here and there a tree
+is rooted in a cleft, but unfortunately frustrates every attempt to get
+a specimen; large rosettes of light green pangue gleam on the narrow
+shelves; the stream, nearly filling up the bottom of the valley,
+chatters merrily, now and then forming a miniature waterfall. Yesterday
+we saw the grand, to-day the pretty side of Masafuera scenery. Over
+the desolate expanse eagles soar looking for prey; down here the
+humming-birds shoot from flower to flower, flashing with metallic
+splendour as they twist and turn. Calmness and peace reign; not a
+breath of wind stirs the elegant runners of the ferns.
+
+The next morning we were back in Cumberland Bay and made some short
+excursions; unfortunately we could not stop longer, but had to go back
+to Valparaiso. The voyage across causes much apprehension, as one can
+get a heavy sea broadside on, but we did not feel much of it. On August
+31 we were back again after a most interesting trip, which also gave
+some very good results--among other things I discovered some plants on
+the top of Masafuera well known in the south of Chile, but not to be
+expected out here.
+
+The Spanish navigator Juan Fernandez discovered the islands in 1563,
+and was their first colonist. As we have seen, it was not long before
+ships used to call for sandal-wood, and in the seventeenth century
+Spain erected a small fortress in order to shut out the numerous
+English buccaneers who had their headquarters in Cumberland Bay. An
+earthquake in 1751 brought the fort and the small town also built there
+to an untimely end. But the ruins are still left. Later the island was
+used as a penal settlement; near the harbour are some caverns where the
+prisoners lived. In our times the islands were opened to colonization.
+On Masatierra a number of families lived, and a fishing company had
+stations on both islands. Sheep, cattle, and horses ran about, greatly
+to the damage of the vegetation. From an agricultural point of view
+Masafuera--and perhaps also Masatierra--is of no importance. For the
+development of Chile it is not of the slightest value that this strip
+of land should be cultivated. The fishing industry is of much greater
+account, especially the catching of lobsters. The giant Juan Fernandez
+lobster (_Palinurus frontalis_), sometimes from 2 to 3 feet long, does
+not live on the main coast of Chile, but is the more appreciated there.
+On the occasion of our visit it was worth sixty cents when delivered
+by the fishermen to the company; their agents get three pesos in
+Valparaiso, and when it reached the table of the big restaurants it
+fetched ten or even fifteen pesos for big specimens (at that time one
+peso was about eightpence). I daresay the fishing was not managed in a
+satisfactory way or it would have been a profitable industry; we were
+told that the company was about to abandon the place. Because of the
+quite unnecessary colonization the future of Masatierra, as seen from
+a scientific point of view, looks very dark. But some time ago a still
+greater danger threatened Masafuera. During our visit to Chile the
+Government made preparations to establish another penal settlement on
+that island. An official commission had been sent there, looked at the
+place, and reported it as very fit for the purpose. Among the various
+descriptions of labour to be imposed on the prisoners forest-cutting
+was mentioned--the practically worthless, scientifically irreplaceable
+endemic trees would be exterminated in the most brutal manner! The
+least one can demand, now that the prison is an accomplished fact, is
+that the members of that commission should spend the rest of their
+lives on the island. Their sin is great enough to justify this.
+
+It is evident that the preservation of natural beauty will appear a
+strange idea to a people like the Chileans, who first of all must think
+of the material development of their country, of the education of the
+people, and other important questions; they have not been able yet to
+give science the high place it occupies in the countries of the Old
+World. But in this case there is no time to lose. The Juan Fernandez
+Islands are of international interest; their destruction means
+irreparable loss to the whole realm of science. The order of the day
+ought to be: Away with the colonists! I can hardly imagine a more ideal
+place for a biological station than this--the queen of an ocean. And at
+the same time as plants and animals were being protected a profitable
+fishing industry could be established, many times surpassing in value
+agriculture or cattle-breeding. Several times I have pointed out these
+facts to the great public, but all in vain. I daresay a true Chilean
+does not know what love of Nature means. Perhaps he cannot help it, he
+was born like that; nevertheless it is a pity.
+
+Since this was written I have had news from Chile that the penal
+settlement has not turned out very well and that the place is to be
+abandoned. But do not believe that the island will be left alone. There
+is another scheme: they are thinking of breeding sheep and cattle for
+the wants of the army--a most noble pasturage they will get. Is it
+possible? After what I have seen, anything is possible.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+ACROSS THE ANDES INTO ARGENTINA
+
+
+Before we undertook the journey to the Patagonian Channels we had
+resolved to move our field of work to a more northerly latitude during
+the rest of the winter, and I have already described the excursions
+made between July and September 1908. Naturally we had also discussed
+how we were to return south again, and the idea of proceeding
+overland--_i.e._, going on horseback from Lake Nahuelhuapi to Punta
+Arenas--had also suggested itself. We did not conceal from ourselves
+that it would be a risky enterprise. When we left Sweden we were by
+no means prepared for such an eventuality, and therefore had not even
+studied what had been written describing that part of the country. This
+lack could in part be supplied, but not completely, and we did not miss
+any chance of getting information about Patagonia from persons who had
+personal experience. As to the equipment suitable, the way of arranging
+a caravan, and the technical side of the matter, Quensel had gained
+very useful experience from his strenuous summer round Payne and Lake
+Argentino. The financial difficulty was the worst to get over. We were
+told we could not start with less than fifty horses--and I daresay
+this was no exaggeration from a South American point of view. But we
+could not dream of any such number; our money would not permit of our
+buying more than ten or twelve altogether. Anyhow, we made up our minds
+to risk it, hoping that by marching at moderate speed and resting the
+horses every third or fourth day we should manage with the smaller
+number. By the kindness of the Argentine and Chilean Governments, we
+had received complete sets of the maps of the Boundary Commission,
+and had had ample time to study them in all details. Unlike our
+predecessors, we regarded guides as unnecessary; with a map and a good
+compass one should certainly be able to get along everywhere, letting
+common sense determine the details of the march. In general, fixed,
+scientific ideas must lead us, and the usefulness of _vaqueanos_,
+guides, who can never read a map, would most probably turn out to be
+illusory. On the other hand it was necessary to get hold of a good and
+strong all-round man to accompany us the whole time, as we did not want
+always to be tied by all the regular daily routine work. It is not easy
+here to light upon reliable people for such a purpose, and one ought
+not to take anybody into one’s service without strong recommendations
+from trustworthy persons. When we left Punta Arenas we had told Pagels
+that we should perhaps send for him later on, and we never had cause to
+regret that at last we resolved to do so. I telegraphed to him to join
+our party in Puerto Montt or at Nahuelhuapi, and he declared himself
+willing to come.
+
+Briefly our plan ran as follows: We were to cross the Perez-Rosales
+pass to Nahuelhuapi, and there complete our equipment, buy horses, &c.
+Our way at first would lead along the mountain across the high pampas,
+then run between the main range and the mesetas, across the transandine
+valleys and close to the east end of the large lakes; on some of
+them boat excursions would be undertaken. Everywhere we would avail
+ourselves of all possible chances of penetrating westward into the
+mountains. Our scientific purpose was to gain a series of geological
+and phytogeographical observations along the mountains, as well as on
+some sections across them to the Pacific Ocean. Before I invite the
+reader to follow us across the frontier to the neighbouring republic, I
+shall make some few remarks on the more important surveys made in the
+interior of Patagonia.
+
+The shipwreck of Camarga in the Magellan Straits in 1540, as well as
+the unhappy result of Sarmiento’s colonizing enterprise in 1584, gave
+birth to all sorts of stories. It was said that survivors of these
+disasters had wandered into the interior of Patagonia, where they had
+found immense treasures and established a settlement, which by-and-by
+had developed into a flourishing city, mentioned in the tales as “la
+Ciudad de los Césares,” the Town of the Emperors. No grounds whatever
+for such a supposition existed, but that, of course, did not hinder
+the place from becoming the chief attraction for a large number of
+expeditions, which tried to penetrate into the mysteries of Patagonia,
+and succeeded in doing so during the seventeenth and eighteenth
+centuries. Now and again a rumour cropped up of the enchanted city,
+where the natives had prohibited the white men from going back to their
+own countries, and even to-day there are ignorant people who still
+believe it. I myself have met one fellow who was sure of the existence
+of such a city--and he was an educated man.
+
+In 1621 Captain Flores de León started with an expedition from Calbuco
+(near Port Montt). He discovered the Perez-Rosales pass and reached
+Nahuelhuapi, where he encountered numerous savage Indians. And probably
+he is not the only one who made that journey at so early a date. Soon
+the Jesuit mission on Chiloé tried to effect communication with the
+east side of the Cordillera, and on one of his journeys Father Mascardi
+founded a station on the shore of Nahuelhuapi in 1670. Under changing
+fortunes it existed until 1717, when the Puelche Indians completely
+destroyed it.
+
+Investigations now ceased for a time, but at the end of the eighteenth
+century we find new brave pioneers setting out, and in the south the
+first expedition penetrated far inland. Antonio de Viedma in 1782
+marched from San Julián, on the Atlantic coast, across the pampas to
+the foot of the mountains, where he discovered the big lake now named
+after him. We must skip some years to find any dates worthy of mention
+in this brief summary. The glorious expeditions of the _Adventure_
+and the _Beagle_, well known to all English readers, opened a new era
+of modern scientific investigations, and Captain Fitzroy, accompanied
+by Charles Darwin, in 1834 pulled up the Santa Cruz river. From the
+point at which they were forced to return they beheld the depression
+where Lake Argentino is situated; but not until 1867 was this big lake
+discovered by the English engineer H. Gardiner.
+
+R. A. Philippi, C. Fonck, and others in the fifties started to explore
+the regions of Llanquihue and Nahuelhuapi, and in 1862 William Cox, an
+ancestor of the Swedo-Chilean family Schönmeyr, made a famous journey
+to Nahuelhuapi and went down the rapids of Rio Limay, till he got
+shipwrecked and was made prisoner by the Indians. We owe him a debt
+of gratitude for a great deal of information about the natives. Later
+Captain G. Musters made prolonged journeys through the land of the
+Tehuelches and rescued the knowledge of their habits and customs from
+oblivion. However, large “white patches” still remained along the foot
+of the Cordilleras.
+
+The man who has gained the greatest merit for their exploration is Dr.
+F. P. Moreno, late director of the museum in La Plata. In my opinion
+his travels well match most of those made in our days, and if his name
+is not so well known in Europe the fault is ours, not his. In the years
+1875 to 1880 he crossed Patagonia in all directions, often amidst
+great dangers; more than once he nearly lost his life. He and his
+companions were the first to reach Nahuelhuapi from the east; together
+with Moyano he discovered Rio de la Leona, the outlet of Lago Viedma in
+Lago Argentino, and also the great Lake San Martín. Later he became the
+leading spirit of the Argentine Boundary Commission, when a piece of
+geographical work almost without parallel was performed. In 1880 Moyano
+made an expedition from Santa Cruz along the valley of Rio Chico, and
+thence to the north, and he was the first white man who beheld the vast
+surface of Lake Buenos Aires. Another prominent Argentine explorer was
+R. Lista.
+
+Long before these important events, Argentina as well as Chile had
+begun to think of expansion, Argentina towards Patagonia, the cramped
+Chile through the transandine valleys out over the east slopes of the
+mountains. Thus a boundary dispute arose, carried on with great heat
+by both parties. It was deemed to have been brought to an end by the
+treaty of 1881, which settled that the Cordillera should constitute
+the boundary, and thus the ground for dispute seemed to be removed.
+Commissions were established to regulate the matter, but soon all
+negotiations were broken off; a new controversy had arisen. It was
+found that for long distances the water-parting did not coincide
+with the highest mountain-ridges, but lay east of it, and the
+Chileans considered that the water-divide ought to be the frontier,
+the Argentines that only the highest peaks and crests would make a
+just and natural boundary. The question was of great importance,
+as the dispute involved the fertile subandine valleys, which with
+every reason were considered a good field for future colonization.
+However, matters could not be settled as long as the region was not
+mapped, and in the nineties a fine piece of work was accomplished,
+in which several Scandinavians also took part as cartographers.
+The Argentine exploration resulted in a large work, accompanied by
+splendid photographs and numerous maps. We could see now how much was
+still left to be discovered: large lake-basins, such as Fontana-La
+Plata, Belgrano-Azara-Nansen, Pueyrredon (Cochrane)-Posadas, the last
+one as late as in 1898. Sometimes naturalists also accompanied the
+expeditions. From the Chilean side efforts were made to start from
+the fiords on the Pacific coast and penetrate up the rivers through
+the mountains to the sources--enterprises associated with tremendous
+difficulties. Dr. Steffen, the well-known geographer, surveyed the
+river systems of Puelo-Manso, Palena-Carrenleufú, Cisnes, Aysen and
+Baker, Dr. Krüger those of Reñihue and the numerous lakes east of it,
+Yelcho-Futaleufú and Corcovado. The data having been gathered, the
+question was submitted to the award of King Edward VII., in order to
+prevent a terrible war. The King sent a commission under the command
+of Colonel Sir Thomas Holdich, and in November 1902 the decision was
+published and the boundary was settled. After this combined work was
+undertaken to erect the marks, new geographical results being gained.
+The Chilean Government published a work in several parts with numerous
+maps, and the keystone was laid in 1908, when the Argentine description
+of the demarcations appeared.
+
+Private expeditions had also operated in Patagonia during this time.
+Dr. Hatcher with the Princeton University Expedition occupied himself
+in the interior of South Patagonia, discovered Rio Mayer, the outlet of
+the Belgrano system, and did important geological work. The geologists
+Hauthal and Roth made extensive surveys, the former principally in
+the southernmost part of the country, also visited by the Swedish
+expedition of 1896-97. In 1903 Mr. A. Thesleff, a Finnish gentleman,
+crossed Patagonia in order to look for land fit for cultivation;
+with him went the Swedish botanist P. Dusén, who brought home large
+collections from the region between Santa Cruz and the lakes San Martín
+and Viedma. Many smaller journeys are worthy of notice, but I must
+confine myself to those already mentioned. There was still, however, a
+vast field for scientific work.
+
+The winter was coming to an end. In the forests round Reloncaví the
+trees opened their flower-buds; in Puerto Montt we enjoyed the first
+real spring days. We were now more busy than ever, the question being
+to choose a complete but light equipment, and to pack the rest and the
+winter collections and send all together to Punta Arenas. Our modest
+resources were severely strained buying horse-gear, clothes, and a lot
+of small things.
+
+The last nails were driven into the boxes, which were sent down to
+a shed to wait for the next steamer, and with a ridiculously small
+amount of luggage we started for Puerto Varas at the Lago Llanquihue
+on October 6. One is able to drive there very comfortably, for we had
+not yet said good-bye to civilization, and were ordinary passengers.
+A German-Chilean company, the leaders being Germans, called Compañía
+comercial y ganadera Chile-Argentina, owns land on both sides of the
+mountains, and has established regular traffic between Port Montt and
+Bariloche at Nahuelhuapi. A route like this in Europe would certainly
+be crowded with tourists, and prove a real gold-mine. But the everyday
+Chilean has not got his eyes open to the beauty of his country; seldom
+does he travel for pleasure in South America. And when a foreigner
+has his holidays he goes to Europe, where he will hardly find anything
+so magnificent as the journey from Chile to Argentina across the
+Perez-Rosales pass.
+
+In the evening our carriage stopped in front of the Hotel Llanquihue
+in Puerto Varas. On the road we had passed the half-completed
+railway joining Puerto Montt to the town of Osorno, and thus with
+the longitudinal main trunk. There is peace and comfort in that
+small summer place, Puerto Varas, where numerous families spend the
+favourable season on the shores of the large lake. We have good luck,
+the sun rises on a splendid day, and the small steamer takes us over
+a lake like a mirror, between the two famous giant volcanoes Osorno
+and Calbuco, which raise their shining white heads one on each side of
+the east end of Llanquihue. What a contrast to the landscape farther
+west, with pastures and cultivated fields between the grooves! German
+colonists have changed the province of Llanquihue into a land literally
+flowing with milk and honey, for butter and honey are valuable articles
+of export. The honey has a rather peculiar taste, but the bees have to
+collect it from plants very different from those we can offer them.
+
+From an æsthetic point of view Osorno is an ideal volcano. The cone,
+7403 feet high, is very regular, and covered with a cap of eternal
+snow. It is a long time since it showed any signs of life--the last
+eruption must be that described in his usual fascinating manner by
+Darwin, who was lucky enough to witness it. Calbuco is more than 1600
+feet lower, and has not the same regular shape, but is still active.
+With the glasses we could see tiny puffs of white smoke between the
+snowdrifts on the jagged crest; old Vulcan still has one of his forges
+there, and one day or other he will blow his biggest bellows again!
+Then the industrious people will tremble; mud-streams will again drench
+their fields, again the cattle will wade in the burning hot ashes with
+hanging tongues--as some years ago, when the sky became dark far away
+in Ancud in the middle of the day.
+
+We land at the foot of Osorno. One of the old lava streams comes down
+there, a picture of devastation, where vegetation still struggles to
+give some life to the stony desert. Horses are ready, we mount and
+gallop across the neck of land to the next lake, Todos los Santos,
+and go on board a small steam-launch. Calbuco now lies behind. This
+lake has been called one of the most beautiful in the world. Perhaps
+this is an exaggeration--I have not seen enough to judge--but it is
+certainly magnificent. Over its mountains, virgin forests, and dark
+blue water there is a peculiar charm; it is an enchanted lake if there
+be one in this world. What a play of light and shadow on its surface,
+what colours when the sun is painting the peaks with gold and crimson,
+throwing longer and longer shadows over the calm water! Slowly the rosy
+gleam fades away: last of all Osorno is seen glowing, flashing a while
+in the last beams, and then lies blue-white and cold. Night has come,
+forest and water melt together in the shadow of the mountains, but on
+the peaks the moon casts its light. Osorno is wonderful in its silver
+cap. As we advance new, fantastic peaks appear; we turn with the
+lake, catch a glimpse of Tronador, and land in Peulla.
+
+[Illustration: PUERTO MONTT.]
+
+[Illustration: READY TO START.]
+
+The day had filled our minds with delight, but the body had been
+neglected, and we were glad to see a laid table again, not having had
+anything since the early breakfast.
+
+The manager of the company in Peulla, Mr. Roth, proved of great help in
+realising our plans. The next day he arranged an excursion to Tronador,
+the Thunderer, a mountain 11,382 feet high, partly covered by five
+glaciers, making a noise that gave its name to the mountain. With good
+horses we rode through the beautiful forest to Casa Pangue, at the foot
+of the Andes, where one makes the ascent to the pass. Here mules more
+suited to the ground were waiting. Along the stony bed of a glacier
+stream we slowly approached a large glacier, coming down right into the
+forest--a remarkable sight. The morning had been very fine, but we knew
+that rain could not be far off, and just as we had tied up the animals
+in the dwarf forest the first drops came, followed by a proper Chilean
+storm. We climbed across the huge moraines on to the ice-border itself,
+which is somewhat curious. All the lower part is covered by sand and
+gravel, and the glacier advances so very slowly that vegetation has
+time to take possession of it. There are small groves of dwarf trees,
+some getting not less than twenty or thirty years old before they are
+carried down to destruction. One may walk in the soft carpet of mosses
+and scrub without suspecting anything; suddenly a crack opens, showing
+the sheer ice, blue and cold. This is not unique, but I never met with
+anything like it before. By-and-by the rain, which increased to a
+veritable deluge, drove us from the place. The horsemen who arrived in
+Casa Pangue that night were in rather a miserable condition. There was
+literally not a dry thread on our bodies. We made a fire, undressed,
+and changed the place into a fine exhibition of dripping rags. Wrapped
+in blankets, we whiled away the time before nightfall with a game of
+cards, and our dark-eyed hostess made us a nice _cazuela_. The next
+morning we returned to Peulla, and made excursions round it. The
+forests here still bear a marked resemblance to those on Chiloé. On
+October 10 we rode to Casa Pangue and got mules for the march across
+the pass, which is only 3300 feet high. It had been a favourable
+winter, and the road, climbing zigzag up the steep, forest-clad slope,
+seemed good enough on horseback. The traffic with the bullock-carts
+had not been opened yet. The difference in vegetation attracted our
+attention; the numerous leaf-trees became fewer, needle-trees more and
+more frequent. In the pass extensive snowdrifts were still left. For
+a short distance we rode on level ground, passed the boundary mark,
+and came down into the deep grave where Laguna Fria is situated. Its
+icy green glacier water looks cold indeed, and it needs sunshine and
+fine weather if the shores, at the foot of perpendicular cliffs, many
+hundred yards high, are not to produce a gloomy or even terrifying
+impression. We pulled across and walked over the isthmus separating
+Laguna Fria and Nahuelhuapi, following a road in the forest down to
+Puerto Blest. One need not walk on foot; a car drawn by a bullock and
+running on wooden rails brings luggage and passengers down to the
+“hotel.” How easily we had reached the famous lake in comparison with
+the pioneers who risked their lives only to behold its blue water!
+It has been compared with the lakes in the Alps, but who knows if
+Nahuelhuapi does not bear away the palm? It has so many different
+aspects: far to the west it washes the foot of the Andes, in narrow
+inlets reflecting the dark forests of alerce and cedro, thickly wooded
+isles making the scenery more varied; in the east it opens into the
+endless widths of the pampas, the mountains are left behind, the
+forests have dissolved into groves and patches.
+
+In Puerto Blest we counted on getting one day for excursions, and on
+the next we expected the steamer from Bariloche. It had, however,
+started to blow hard, and no steamer came, but a storm, first with
+rain and then with snow and cold; winter made its expiring efforts,
+the shores were dressed in white, all the forest lay powdered with
+snow. We were shut in in a miserable room, where a red-hot stove made
+life almost insupportable. We could not complain, however, for in our
+bedroom the thermometer refused to rise above freezing-point; thus we
+got a tolerable daily average! One day passed; two, three, during which
+the gale raged with unabated strength, making the house tremble at each
+gust. Finally on the 15th the sun showed its glorious face again. There
+was still a good breeze, but as it was an ordinary boat-day we could be
+sure that every effort would be made to fetch us. In the afternoon the
+small steamer arrived after a rough voyage. The day had yet another
+surprise in store for us: when the bullock-cart from Laguna Fria came
+rolling down the slope Pagels was enthroned on the top of the load, and
+after him came our old dog Prince lumbering along. An extra mail-day
+brought letters and papers from Punta Arenas. Now all of us were
+assembled, Pagels had performed the commissions we had given him with
+exactitude, and we could go to bed and sleep a couple of hours--not
+more, for long before the sun gilded the surface of Nahuelhuapi we
+slipped out of the bosom of the Cordillera, to start a new kind of
+life, and for the future march with this gigantic fold of the earth’s
+crust to the west, whither we had been used to look out over the
+endless ocean. The small town, or rather village, Bariloche, was the
+destination of our steamer, and at the same time the starting-point for
+our long ride. We tried to make ourselves comfortable in the small,
+dirty inn, and began our preparations without delay. Pagels occupied
+himself making saddle- and provision-bags, while we had some excursions
+to make.
+
+Bariloche is situated on the edge of the forest region. West of it are
+big cedar-forests (_Libocedrus chilensis_), in the east a yellowish
+steppe. Several mountains exhibiting interesting geological features
+were easy to reach from there, and as we did not want to encumber our
+caravan with heavy collections at the very start, Quensel and Halle
+made an excursion south for a couple of days. I myself went round the
+lake, ferried across Rio Limay, and stayed two days with an American
+gentleman, Mr. Jones. He has a big cattle-ranch, with a stock of
+several thousand head, his special business being to breed mules,
+which fetch double the price of an ordinary horse. We had already
+solved our most important question, the horse problem, and were the
+happy owners of a small _tropilla_ of ten animals and a mare, the
+_yegua madrina_, without whom no troop keeps together. They were rather
+small, and looked like skeletons after the winter. Eight of them were
+saddle-horses; each of us got two and the two others were to carry our
+baggage. Generally the horses in Patagonia are not shod, but as we were
+going to spend most of the time in the mountains we were forced to shoe
+them. Horses are cheap in Patagonia; in the spring prices seem to be
+higher, and we paid sixty dollars each--about £5 6_s._
+
+Our equipment was very simple indeed. We had no suits other than those
+we wore, and they were already old and shabby. The expedition also took
+one common pair of reserve trousers. Of underwear each of us had two
+shifts, but of socks we had a more ample supply. Most of the clothes,
+some necessary handbooks, perishable provisions, ammunition, a number
+of small, strong bottles of formaline or spirits, some instruments
+such as aneroids, thermometers, compasses, &c., films for the camera,
+a 3½ by 4¾ ins. Kodak, notebooks, journals, and other small things
+were packed in two small waterproof English leather boxes, specially
+constructed to be attached to a pack-saddle. We only carried one
+rifle, a Winchester of small calibre. We had had serious intentions of
+bringing also a shot-gun, but it disappeared in one of our numerous
+flittings before we reached our starting-point--firearms are always
+welcome in Patagonia, and I am pretty sure it is in use somewhere.
+Overcoats or cloaks we had none, but tied a poncho behind the saddle.
+Neither did we use riding-boots, only leggings or puttees--certainly
+to be preferred when one has to walk much. The two chests made one
+horse-load, at the top of which our coffee-pot was tied. The second
+load consisted of a small tent for two, very seldom used, but sometimes
+necessary to protect our equipment, a bag of provisions, and a small
+bag containing our kitchen requisites, which were of aluminium. The
+sleeping-bags, a simple blanket-bag with canvas covers, were used as
+underlayers for the loads, which were thereby prevented from galling
+the horses’ sides. The load was fixed with a strong rope after Pagels’
+patent method--very practical but certainly not without intricate
+sailor’s knots; woe to him who tried, if only in the slightest degree,
+to deviate from the approved arrangement: Pagels at once told him the
+truth. Every load was of about 150 lbs.--quite sufficient if one takes
+into consideration that the pack-horses had to work all march-days,
+the saddle-horses only every second day. Besides our own weight, they
+carried also the _maletas_, containing various articles of apparel,
+camera, plant-press, &c., and there also the collections made during a
+march were stowed away. Perhaps I ought also to say some words about
+our horse-gear. The pack-saddles were almost new; they had only been
+used for Quensel’s travels, and were of the common South American type.
+Our saddles made a varied show: one English, one half English, half
+Chilean, one of the Falkland pattern, and one Argentine _recado_. The
+rest of the harness was pure Patagonian, _bozal_ and _cabresta_, always
+carried in the hand with the reins; the stirrup had the usual leather
+protection, the whip was a common _rebenque_.
+
+The provisions were of the most simple kind. They were calculated for
+one month only--during which we certainly counted on the renowned
+Patagonian hospitality--and consisted of the following articles: ship’s
+biscuits, flour, rice, oatmeal, coffee, tea, cocoa, _maté_, dried
+fruit, sugar, salt, and fat. Luxuries such as butter, condensed milk,
+&c., were, of course, not to be thought of. A concentrated pea-soup,
+called Knorr’s “Erbsenwurst,” we carried a supply of for the whole
+journey, as well as plug tobacco.
+
+October 23 dawned with radiant pampas weather. For the first time
+we saddled, and it took us a good while to get ready, and not until
+half-past eleven could the caravan start. The solemn time had come,
+and, driving our troop in front of us, with good speed we left
+Bariloche, where people had only tried to fleece us. Before us a free
+life attracted us, full of privations but far away from cash-books and
+bills; with deep breaths we filled our lungs with the fresh pampas air,
+bringing with it an undefinable sense of happiness and freedom.
+
+A group of Bariloche people had gathered to see our start. I daresay
+no one believed that we should get very far with our few horses, and
+no doubt they laughed at our dream of reaching Punta Arenas. Never did
+such a small caravan start in Patagonia on such a long and difficult
+journey, never before had one reached its far-off destination with
+all the horses in even better condition than at the start. But we had
+burnt our boats; there was no return; we must succeed with the scanty
+resources we had at our disposal.
+
+In the very last moment our expedition got another member, a shaggy
+dog. He had made Prince’s acquaintance in Bariloche and came lumbering
+with us. In vain we made the most energetic efforts to chase him away;
+he hung on, and followed us all the time under the name of Pavo. And
+then we took our faithful friend with us to Sweden, where he gained
+citizenship only by royal grace, for Argentina at that time was
+declared to be infected with rabies.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+THROUGH NORTHERN PATAGONIA
+
+
+During the first few days our march was not attended by any
+difficulties, as we only followed the common track, here and there
+visible over the pampas. On our right was the so-called Pre-Cordillera,
+where outlines are softer and the snow-patches insignificant. Deep
+ravines appear in the easily disintegrating tufas, and here dark
+forest-groves extend, though not reaching down to where we were
+travelling. Behind and in front of us lay the broken ground of the high
+pampas with hills and ravines, towards the east the endless undulating
+plains reaching far away to the Atlantic Ocean. The yellow sand gleams
+between tufts of stiff steppe plants and scented spring flowers, red
+or blue, yellow or white, now and then tempting me to alight to gather
+specimens. Everywhere the blue-green hillocks of _Mulinum spinosum_
+(an umbelliferous plant) appear, together with the stiff tussocks of
+grasses, the most noticeable growths on the dry, sandy steppe. Almost
+everything is prickly; the shrubs are armed to the teeth, the leaves of
+the grass end in a sharp needle, breaking off at the slightest touch:
+if one sits down carelessly one soon jumps up again, spiny like an
+urchin, but with the important difference that the spines are turned
+towards one’s own skin. Now and then a cactus is seen resting its
+growth on the stony soil. On the hills and plateaus vegetation is more
+scanty. It is almost a desert, red or yellow, strewn with sharp-edged
+stones, with stunted plants in the cracks, such as are specially fitted
+to endure the hardships of desert life; sometimes they look like a
+tangle of spines, out of which some few brilliant flowers peep forth;
+sometimes they are wrapped in a dense clothing of thick wool and have
+roots disappearing in the very bowels of the earth, where there is
+perhaps water to drink. The numerous spines are one of the nuisances of
+the steppe. Another is the wind, often blowing hard for a long time and
+enveloping us in a cloud of dust. But certainly we preferred this to
+the eternal rains of the west coast.
+
+Hours pass, the sun bakes us red or brown, the dust gathers in thicker
+and thicker deposits. The bell on the mare tinkles, the hoofs rattle
+on the hard ground. The horses, untrained as they are after a long
+winter’s leisure, get less willing, one or other tries to pluck a
+mouthful of the rough yellow grass. We must show more energy in driving
+the troop, and Pagels is frequently heard shouting a “verdammtes
+Kamel,” in a very bad case increasing his anger to a “heiliges
+Kanonenrohr,” the strongest expression he is able to lay tongue to, and
+surely a relic of his service in the navy. We welcome the small valley,
+our first camping-place, where a tiny stream winds between thickets
+of ñire. Patches of green grass attract the horses; we find a nice
+and sheltered corner and unsaddle. One horse is chosen and tethered
+to a long rope; the others are simply let loose, with the exception
+of the mare, who is provided with _maneas_ round the front legs. So
+one is more or less sure of finding the troop in the neighbourhood
+the next morning. The first camp-fire crackles, the _maté_ makes its
+round, and a real fat _asado_ of beef drips on the spit. Poor misguided
+vegetarians would not thrive here; meat and meat again will probably
+always be the staple food of the pampas. Here in Sweden we hardly know
+what good meat is. I learnt to understand my Argentine friend from the
+Antarctic voyage, José Sobral, who deliberately shook his head at the
+stuff he was offered in Upsala. I think that then I tried to defend it,
+but I have already withdrawn my defence.
+
+The delicious steak whets our appetite, and from curiosity one soon
+cuts into it to see if it has not got the right colour. A pack-saddle
+or the sleeping-bag is our seat. A large piece of meat in one hand, the
+big sheath-knife in the other--that’s the way to eat _asado_. A couple
+of biscuits and a cup of cocoa end our meal--dinner and supper at the
+same time. Generally we only fed twice a day, put a piece of biscuit or
+cold meat, if there was any, in our pocket, and ate it during one of
+the halts we were forced to make to give the horses a spell of rest.
+They got thirsty and we wanted to stretch our legs.
+
+Darkness falls over the expanses, the stars come out, and our camp-fire
+more and more commands the surroundings. We gladly linger a while over
+our pipes; it is the most pleasant hour of the day, and, if possible,
+we want to prolong it. But there is a next day, and the thought of
+this makes us look for a bed in the bushes, spread out the bag, make
+a bundle of the clothes under the head, creep down, and enjoy the last
+whiff of smoke. Ah, these nights under the open sky--it seems almost a
+pity to sleep--now out in the open camp, where the barren sand gleams
+between the grass and the ghostly silhouette of a single bush stands
+against the sky, now under soughing trees, where the moonbeams seek a
+way through the black foliage. Cross and Centaur wander the eternal
+road, the murmur of the stream is conducive to sleep.... A ghostly cry
+breaks the stillness, our dogs prick up their ears and bark: only a
+hungry fox who has scented our pantry! From Pagels’ bag comes a “gute
+Nacht,” one turns to find a comfortable position, and is soon at home
+among the firs and red-painted houses in the land far away, which now
+looks so marvellous to us. The night is clear and cold, and with great
+satisfaction we greet the first sunbeams that creep from the ocean all
+the way to the foot of the Andes. The day will get hot, and the thing
+is to get off when the freshness of the morning still lies over the
+land. First the morning toilet must be performed. The reader imagines,
+I should think, how we enjoyed a good wash in the purling brook; alas!
+we also imagined it, but it was seldom accomplished in reality. It did
+not pay, for after half an hour’s ride one was as dirty again, and
+we were more satisfied with occasional thorough cleanings on solemn
+occasions. But there was _one_ paragraph in our codex of cleanliness
+from which there was no exception: he who was to make bread must first
+wash his hands.
+
+Work was certainly not lacking in the morning. Collections and notes
+had to be put in order, the breakfast prepared, and the horses driven
+to the camp, caught, and saddled. Every day I had plants to press,
+which I performed in a simple manner, for naturally the usual heavy
+plant-presses were banished; but with two pieces of cardboard, a rope,
+and old newspapers I got in the settlements I managed all right.
+Breakfast consisted for the most part of porridge, meat, bread (when
+we had any), and coffee. It was soon eaten, cups and plates washed,
+the saucepan cleaned. This last job we took by turns; not even the
+palatable scrapings could make it enjoyable.
+
+The watch-horse was saddled; we must look for the others. In most cases
+this did not give us much trouble, because when it was possible we
+carefully chose good pasture. It was much worse to catch the horses.
+With the ropes we made a corral, easy enough in the forest, but often
+very tedious when out on the open pampas, where hardly a single
+suitable bush could be discovered. Some of the animals were easy to
+catch, but others tried our patience, hiding amongst their fellows or
+breaking away. Finally the full number of six were tied and we started
+to saddle. We always saddled our own horses, and soon got very expert
+at handling all sorts of gear. The loads lay ready waiting, nothing was
+forgotten, and the first camping-ground disappeared behind a hill.
+
+We could soon distinguish our destination for the second day, a
+single rust-brown peak, called Pico Quemado (The Burnt). Following
+the Cordillera, the track went ceaselessly uphill and downhill. But
+the monotony was broken when suddenly the load on one of the horses
+loosened. We stopped and tried to catch him, but he bolted at once. The
+load slipped round, terrible kicks struck the boxes, and our coffee-pot
+soon was changed into a tragi-comic, completely useless utensil. “It
+served you right, you ass!” Pagels said, when the beast at last lay
+there, entangled in the rope. By-and-by we gained more experience,
+though not a day elapsed when we had not to rearrange the loads. The
+whole day we were ascending, it grew colder, and the wind freshened and
+felt biting cold in spite of the northerly latitude. At 4900 feet we
+reached the pass, and made downhill towards a small stream on the south
+side of Pico Quemado.
+
+Another day and we came across the first houses, a small settlement,
+and in the evening stopped in front of a large wooden house in
+Ñorquinco. Here the Chile-Argentina Company has established a branch.
+The place is as typical of civilised Patagonia as we could wish: an
+iron shed for the telegraph office, where floats a faded Argentine
+flag, a _boliche_ with horse-gear, bunches of stirrups and spurs,
+hanging from the roof, a pile of sheepskins thrown into a corner, heaps
+of clothing, gaudy handkerchiefs, black, huge-brimmed hats, knives and
+revolvers, long rows of tin boxes with multicoloured labels, and last,
+but not least, the _cantina_--the bar with wine-barrels, shelves of
+bottles in all the shifting colours of the rainbow, _pisco_ (a weak
+Chilean brandy), æruginous Menta liqueur, Jamaica rum with its nigger
+head, whisky and brandy, some champagne bottles and the wash-up tub,
+where the glass is dipped an instant before it is offered to the next
+customer. Outside at the traditional barrier some horses are tied,
+waiting for their masters. And they will have to wait.... The dice are
+thrown, laughter echoes within the walls. Swarthy individuals, pure
+Indians dressed in poncho and wide trousers, pulled together at the
+wrist, white socks, and a pair of slippers, Chileans, Argentiners, and
+_gringos_ (strangers). A dirty policeman, dressed in the remains of
+a uniform, hangs about the bar. Conversation stops for a moment when
+we enter: evidently we do not look like everyday comers and they gaze
+curiously at our cargo. The social tone is free and friendly here. You
+suddenly find yourself a member of the party, a glass is thrust into
+your hand, _Salud!_ to right and left, and then it is your turn to
+order a “round.” If one has any idea of Patagonian customs, one takes
+care not to refuse--it might cost one dear.
+
+It was easy enough for us to get dinner and a bed, but we thought more
+of our horses. Everywhere here the scanty grass was gone, and as there
+were no paddocks we were anxious lest the horses should run away--a
+starved horse strays until he finds something to eat.
+
+At seven in the morning the policeman rode away to look for our troop,
+and we awaited his return anxiously. And when he returned alone we
+knew the truth: the horses had gone. There are many points on the
+compass, but we must seek in all. Kind souls offered their services,
+others confined themselves to discussing matters and made all sorts
+of guesses. The inspector of police, who had arrived, declared that
+the horses most probably had gone back to Bariloche, and we sent a
+telegram there; others were inclined to suspect that thieves had had
+a hand in it; one fellow looked at the inspector and whispered to me
+that the police perhaps knew ... Well, it would not have been the first
+time a thing like that had happened in the Cordillera. A number of
+_peons_ (camp-labourers) were sent to look in different directions,
+and we strolled far away over the hills, provided with glasses; we saw
+some horses, but not ours. At noon, however, one of the men returned
+with the mare and five horses, but the other five had strayed away. New
+guests arrived in the evening; our horses were the favourite topic,
+and if good advice had been able to do anything, certainly there was
+plenty. We went to bed in a miserable state of mind. Five horses gone;
+we could not buy others without getting into debt, and who knew if
+anybody would be willing to give unknown strangers credit? And without
+these horses, the caravan reduced to half, it would prove impossible to
+carry out our scheme--an ignominious end to our bold hopes. The next
+day we arranged a systematic search. Indian peons got the description
+of the horses, and were promised a reward if they brought them back.
+They intended to track them down. The horses were shod, it is true,
+and therefore easy to distinguish from others, but the hardness of
+the ground and the strong wind would make matters more difficult. We
+resolved to continue our march with the rest of the caravan, leaving
+Pagels behind to watch over our interests and make inquiries of people
+all round in his beautiful Spanish. However, we had almost lost hope
+of seeing our animals (some of them good horses) any more, and began to
+believe that thieves had driven them out of the way on purpose, only
+waiting for us to lose patience and leave the place--an old Patagonian
+trick often employed with profit. We left Ñorquinco and followed a
+cart-track, after a while turning to the west, through a very distinct
+pass, a true _portezuelo_, leading down into the valley of Rio Chubut.
+Large herds of cattle were grazing on the well-watered meadows, and,
+hungry as they were, our horses would not have refused a good meal, but
+time did not permit of this. Rio Chubut, one of the largest rivers of
+Patagonia, is here only small, though sometimes so swollen that it is
+difficult to cross. Now there was not much water, and we easily reached
+the small _estancia_ Maytén, where we stopped for the night. Only the
+wife of the _capataz_ (the “boss”) was at home, and at first she did
+not seem very willing to welcome us, but after a while promised to
+cook some food and let us sleep in the peons’ quarters. I do not blame
+her, for the master of the home was away and we might have been a band
+of rascals, a possibility not at all contradicted by our appearance.
+A gentleman rider in Patagonia brings several servants, and if one
+does any sort of work usually left to the peons this never evokes
+admiration, but only sheer astonishment.
+
+As on every _estancia_ one or two horses are tethered for the night, we
+let ours go, and in the morning a peon promised to fetch them. He went
+away all right; and came back after two hours--without the horses:
+“he had not gone in the right direction,” he said. A traveller, a kind
+fellow, who had spent the night with us, offered to fetch them himself,
+and finally, at noon, they came. The peon _had_ been there, for a
+_bozal_ that we had left on one of the pack-horses in order to catch
+him with less trouble was gone. There was no time to look for it; it
+was nearly one o’clock, and we had a ride of thirty-one miles in front
+of us. Over easy ground we followed the Chubut river till it bent to
+the east, and at nightfall reached the Lelej valley, where we soon
+perceived a group of large buildings, indicating a big farm. It was the
+headquarters of the “English-Argentine Land Company,” whose manager,
+Mr. Preston, welcomed us in a very kind manner. Lelej is typical of a
+large cattle-farm. In a low building of red brick--the ground is cheap,
+so there is no reason to make houses of more than one storey--are the
+lodgings, offices, shops, and stores; all round are various workshops,
+such as a carpenter’s and a blacksmith’s shop, the house of the
+“bosses,” and the plain _ranchos_ of the peons. In the vicinity one
+does not look in vain for the piles of fuel, brought there from a long
+distance, the great, ever-increasing heap of empty tin boxes, the
+bulky, high-wheeled bullock-carts, and the rolls of wire. Round the
+houses stretch smallish _potreros_, or paddocks, for the hundreds of
+horses in daily use, and away over the hills the fences run straight as
+an arrow.
+
+[Illustration: SMALL PATAGONIAN SHEEP FARM.]
+
+The peons are a peculiar class of people. Pure Indians or _mestizos_,
+they are nearly all doomed to eternal bachelorhood; one can hardly
+imagine a married peon. All day they spend on horseback, at night
+they crawl in on the earthen floor round the cauldron with _puchero_
+hanging down from the roof, feed, smoke a cigarette, take innumerable
+cups of _maté_, then, wrapped in a blanket, they sleep on some rags in
+a corner. Pleasures of life take the form of _maté_ and tobacco, and,
+of course, spirit, when they can get it. Here is the home of a peon
+to-day; to-morrow he does some foolish thing, takes too long a siesta,
+perhaps, and is sent off. In five minutes he has packed together his
+property, put them and himself on a horse, and has galloped away to
+seek fortune elsewhere. Of course, he has horses, often a whole drove;
+horses multiply and there is always pasture. But light come, light go;
+an attracting “pub,” an unscrupulous publican, and after some days of
+splendid intoxication he rides away on a borrowed horse. A peon who
+saves his pay puts it all into his horse-trappings; one can see him
+in his Sunday clothes with a small fortune of silver on the horse, an
+ancient custom inherited from Tehuelche or Araucanian ancestors. It is
+curious to think that not many years ago this vast land was the free
+battlefield of the Indian, he who now is its most humble servant, whom
+any stranger with a piece of land thinks it fitting to kick and insult,
+always letting him understand that he belongs to an inferior race,
+living at the intruder’s mercy. Sometimes it happens that he gains the
+confidence of his master, is promoted to _capataz_ and gets his own
+house; and should it happen that a girl finds her way out to the camp,
+he may get a family also. A common peon she does not look at; there
+are always persons of higher rank who are glad to take care of her.
+
+Life in Lelej goes like clockwork. All the employees are Englishmen or
+Scotchmen and have brought their customs to the new country. On the
+stroke of half-past six they are sitting at breakfast, where every
+passing gentleman may be sure of a seat and a mutton chop; the bread
+is as English as one could wish, and luncheon or dinner arrives with
+magnificent beef or roast mutton. And if one discovers a football or
+golf clubs it is nothing astonishing. Lelej appeared to us a very well
+managed enterprise, where people work ceaselessly.
+
+The greatest difficulties these settlements in the Andes have to
+contend with are the bad communications. Everything goes by cart to the
+Atlantic coast, making journeys lasting weeks and months, under great
+difficulties of finding water on the half desert-like plains. Great
+railway schemes are now spoken of, or even started, and then Patagonia
+will be able to show what she is capable of.
+
+Lelej was the last telegraph station, and we were in continuous
+communication with Ñorquinco. All hope seemed gone, as Pagels asked
+permission to buy a new horse and join us; but I asked him to stop
+another day, which proved to be a piece of luck. We had plenty of
+work in the neighbourhood--made a ride up in the mountains, where
+snow still lay in the forests, just dressed in the verdure of spring.
+Quensel visited the flourishing Cholila valley in the west, and Halle
+was busy collecting fossils. However, we worked with depressed
+spirits. Certainly Mr. Preston had promised to guarantee us money if
+we telegraphed to Buenos Aires for some; he had no horses to sell us
+himself. Later it proved that it would have been very difficult to
+get any. We did not want to get the expedition into debt, as it was
+our pride to make an exception to the rule. November came, still no
+news. Then, on November 2, like a sunbeam from an overclouded sky came
+the following telegram: “Hay noticias de caballos perdidos; Señor
+Pagels fué traerlos, seguirá viaje mañana,” or, “Lost horses traced;
+Mr. Pagels gone to fetch them, continues his journey to-morrow.” The
+title plainly showed that Pagels had understood how to inspire due
+respect! It had been sent the day before, and we could expect him the
+same day, and were almost ready to embrace the fugitives when they
+appeared. Everything had nearly come to nought; Pagels had bought a
+horse on credit, and had one foot in the stirrup, when an Indian came
+on horseback and told him that he knew where the horses were. What a
+big weight was off our minds!
+
+Merry as before and with a complete caravan we started for the next
+halting-place, two days off. Now and then we put up ostriches (_Rhea_),
+which flew in all directions with stretched wings, chased by our dogs,
+who could never overtake them; now and then a small herd of guanacos
+passed, but they also left Prince and Pavo far behind. We had just
+unsaddled for the night at the side of a small tributary to Chubut,
+when on the other side of the water we saw the silhouettes of more than
+a hundred guanacos against the evening sky. It would have been easy to
+get a good bag, but as long as we were in communication with settled
+parts we need not leave a settlement without a couple of fine steaks
+added to the loads, and wild animals were safe from our bullets.
+
+Guarded by the Esguel Mountains, a large plain stretched before us,
+and far away we could see two high peaks, between which our way
+would run, through the so-called Nahuelpan Pass. It is a narrow but
+fertile valley, with small cornfields round the grey Indian _ranchos_,
+shadowed by small groves of cedars. We were not quite sure of the way
+to Clarke’s place, which we wanted to visit, and asked an Indian who
+passed us; he told us that we had missed our way, and would have to go
+back again, but also that if we continued through the pass we should
+strike Underwood’s farm in “Colonia 16-de-Octubre.” Certainly we had
+special reasons for seeing Clarke; Preston had sent letters to him, and
+besides he was an educated man, a B.A. of an English university; but
+the _détour_ would be too much for our animals, and we continued down
+to Underwood, where we arrived after a march of thirty-four miles. The
+neat little brick cottage lies embowered in a garden. Mr. Underwood
+was away, but his wife welcomed us, and we soon felt at home. By a
+happy chance Mr. Clarke came driving there the same night, bound on a
+business journey through the valley, and thus we had the great pleasure
+of making his acquaintance.
+
+The “Valle 16-de-Octubre” is one of the most fertile and populous of
+the transandine valleys. It is watered by Rio Corintos, further down
+joining Rio Futaleufú, which empties into Lago Yelcho, in its turn
+discharging by Rio Yelcho into the Pacific. We stood by the same river
+where we had camped some months earlier, but the entire Cordillera was
+between the two places. Here Chile had certainly wanted to emphasize
+the principle that a water-divide was the natural frontier, but as the
+valley had been colonized by Welshmen from Chubut (Trelew), Argentine
+kept the whole valuable part of it. We wanted to give our horses a rest
+and let them browse a few days, and Clarke came with us to look for a
+farm where people would be willing to lend us horses for our excursions.
+
+Shut in by magnificent mountain-chains, this valley is a real gem,
+green with vast meadows, wheat-fields, and clover-fields, adorned by
+nice country houses, where fruit-trees and berry-bushes, cauliflower
+and lettuce were a delight to behold. We became quite homesick when we
+rode through. At the schoolhouse we stopped. The children are taught in
+Welsh, but most of the people we met also spoke English and Spanish.
+We crossed Rio Corintos, where fat cows of English breeds grazed on
+the banks, and made a halt at a farm of very modest aspect. The owner,
+however, was a wealthy man. He was out marking colts, but his wife
+asked us to off-saddle and come in, and welcomed us with a _maté_. Then
+Don Antonio Miguens came. He received us very kindly indeed, promised
+us horses, and proved a thorough gentleman. He is, besides, a very
+original man.
+
+On November 6 we rode further into the valley with fresh horses. At
+the beginning we made good speed; then the valley narrowed and the
+patches of beautiful cedar-forest, further east only growing in the
+ravines, closed into a dense covering on the steep slopes down to the
+broad river that rushed westward, embracing green islands. Ever since
+the time when the valley was explored from the Pacific side a path
+has been left, but it is anything but inviting, running up and down
+over neck-breaking barrancas, through thickets and stony places. The
+horses were used to this ground, and did not hesitate, but jumped over
+the barricades of fallen forest giants. One had better not sleep in
+the saddle, for one’s knees are in continual danger from trunks and
+huge blocks. We met passages so intricate that we had to leave them
+to the horse’s judgment--the only disaster that happened was that our
+coffee-pot (the second!) suffered a fatal shock. However, by giving it
+another kick we made it possible to use for the day. The vegetation
+more and more showed signs of the rain-forest, our old friends the
+beeches and myrtle-trees appeared again, and when we reached the
+boundary-mark high up on the south bank of the river Chile welcomed us
+with rain and fog.
+
+With a sense of regret we parted with the valley and sought a way south
+over very broken ground with dense brushwood here and there, making it
+difficult to keep together. We were not at all sure of having chosen
+the best way till we came in sight of Lake Rosario and the extensive
+peat-bogs at its west end, where we passed it. Here Jeremias, one of
+the pack-horses--thus named because he uttered strange, plaintive
+sounds when being saddled--got a chance to prove his eminent
+intelligence. We had suspected that he was not quite normal, and now
+made certain. He caught sight of some horses on the other side of the
+swamps, was seized by a sudden desire to make their acquaintance, and
+in a rapid gallop flew down the slope. We followed him as fast as our
+horses could carry us, but only arrived to see him sink down, kick in
+desperation, and disappear to his belly. It was a wet swamp of the
+worst kind, and we nearly lost him. At first all efforts proved futile,
+the ground would not bear us, but we managed to unload him, and thus
+saved both him and the load.
+
+At a tributary of Rio Carrenleufú we camped for the night, and the next
+morning made for the main river. We had some trouble with our horses,
+as two of them had sore backs and could not be used. The least pressure
+of a saddle might render them useless for weeks.
+
+We tried to set a course straight for a settlement indicated on the
+Argentine map. The ground was very poor, innumerable ravines filled
+with thickets, and sometimes so wet that the horses had to wade in
+loose black mud over their knees. It was more by good luck than good
+management that we struck the house of Robert Day, where hospitality
+indeed had its abode. Seldom do you find its laws so strictly kept
+as in Patagonia. In the settlement of white men or the _rancho_ of
+an Indian, everywhere you are received with open arms, and the best
+there is is put on the table. Every effort is made to keep you there;
+never is the house too limited or the table too small. We shall never
+forget old Day, his jolly wife and swarm of children. The eldest sons
+had built their own cottages at other places in the valley. Day is a
+true pioneer of the old school, and in our Patagonian Baedeker we have
+marked him with three stars. Originally, he, as well as so many others,
+had come to look for the yellow metal, but finished in good time and
+now has a rather flourishing farm. However, he complained of the
+Government. On repeated occasions he had offered to buy the ground, but
+never got a definite answer; he had lived there seventeen years, but
+could not feel sure that he would not be chased away any day it pleased
+the authorities.
+
+Hitherto our direction had been more or less straight south, but
+from Carrenleufú we bent eastward in order to visit the camp round
+Rio Tecka, one of Chubut’s sources, and at the same time make the
+acquaintance of one of the very few Swedes in Patagonia, Don Carlos
+Flach, of the well-known Swedish noble family. In Valparaiso we were
+told that he was manager on an _estancia_ belonging to the Cochamó
+Company, named after Rio Cochamó, which discharges into the Reloncaví
+Inlet not far from Puerto Montt. There a road has been made across to
+the Pacific coast, but it is said to be passable only to riders. Only
+one day’s march separated us from Pampa Chica, where the sought-for
+_estancia_ should be, but the track is rather ill-famed because of
+the extensive _pantanos_, and, according to Day, sometimes quite
+impassable. The saddle-horses were happily brought over the bad places,
+but of course Jeremias was bogged and caused us trouble and loss of
+time. In the afternoon we came across a flock of the company’s sheep;
+they were badly afflicted with scab, the wool hanging in tatters
+all round them. Well hidden by the foot of a hill there was Flach’s
+cottage, and the master of the house was not a little astonished when
+three dusty riders greeted him in his own language. A merry encounter
+it was, and he at once offered to let us share his small hut; the lodge
+had burnt down some time previous to our arrival. The company seemed to
+be of the Yelcho sort; it had gone into liquidation and was selling the
+animals. Flach was about to leave, only waiting to get his money. He
+was thinking of getting a piece of camp further south. Again our horses
+could rest, for Flach lent us some for our excursions. The vegetation
+was glorious here, and I had plenty to do from morning to evening.
+
+It had proved more than necessary to get two more animals in order
+to change the pack-horses, and this problem was solved in a most
+unexpected manner. Flach presented us with one, which belonged to
+nobody, but had been two years on the company’s camp. Of course he was
+baptized Flax (Flach’s; untranslatable Swedish pun; Flax is = luck),
+and turned out one of our very best horses. Besides, we bought a small
+but good horse; under the name of Johansson he carried me at least
+every second march-day during the rest of the time.
+
+Of my horses I kept Solo, the largest of our animals, but the old
+Manasse was degraded to a pack-horse. Quensel got Flax, Halle took
+Jacob and gave Lazarus (a long time with a sore back, thus his name)
+to Pagels, one of whose horses became a pack-horse. The new horses
+learnt to keep with our troop by getting coupled with the mare the
+first nights. This lady was not tame, and often annoyed us with her
+impertinent looks and her obstinacy. To ride a mare is hardly thinkable
+in Patagonia.
+
+Thus we considered ourselves well off, bought more provisions, and on
+November 15 left our new friend, whose small cottage soon disappeared
+from sight behind the yellow hills.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+THROUGH THE CORDILLERAS TO THE PACIFIC COAST
+
+
+The pampas visited during the following days showed us a new feature of
+Patagonian camp, the want of water and fuel, which makes the journeys
+from the settlements to the coast somewhat difficult. Had we not found
+some wood left from a cartload once sent by Flach, we should have been
+confined to very dry food. The water was not of the best, full of
+innumerable small animals, larvæ and crustaceans, but boiled it did not
+taste bad; besides, there was more nourishment in it than there would
+have been otherwise. There was no lack of small lagoons, but they are
+all without an outlet, and round their edge is a thick white crust of
+salt. The water is bitter as gall. In spite of that one likes to stop
+there a while to enjoy the spectacle offered by thousands of beautiful
+water-birds. Large flocks of bright flamingoes walk about in the mud,
+hundreds of black-necked swans glide round their large nests, resting
+in the bulrushes; nearer to the edges moorhen and many waders have
+their quarters; large fat geese walk round cackling on the shore, and
+small ducks run through the channels in the salt-powdered reeds. Every
+find of eggs is welcomed for our kitchen.
+
+In the valley of Rio Pico we again met people; German settlers brought
+in by a company to drive sheep and cattle-farm. They also wanted to try
+agriculture, and had a nice garden already. As usual, we were received
+exceedingly well, and my journal says that we slept on mattresses--a
+rare pleasure.
+
+Before us lay a _meseta_, a table-mountain built up of loose deposits,
+which we had to cross. The _mesetas_ are characteristic of the
+rand-zone of the Andes; further south they have a cover of basalt,
+making it difficult or even impossible to cross them with horses. This
+plateau did not offer any difficulties, but, instead of that, features
+of great interest, which also made progress slow. We ascended to a
+height of about 3300 feet, and went down into the Frias or Cisnes
+valley. The large Frias river originates far east of the mountains, but
+nevertheless discharges into the Pacific Ocean, and here for a stretch
+Chile’s proposal for the boundary was approved at the award. The piece
+of land is of slight importance; only in the eastern part is there good
+grass; proceeding westward, one soon gets into impenetrable virgin
+forests.
+
+At first we looked in vain for any trace of people; we did not know
+where the _estancia_ was, and it was almost dark, when, at a distance
+of about two miles, we sighted the well-known houses, proving the
+existence of another customer of the “Corrugated Iron Company,
+Limited.” The company in the Frias valley, as others in Chilean
+Patagonia, has got leasehold for a number of years; after that time the
+land is disposed of by auction; and it is considered that the company
+should be able to give the best tender. One of the conditions for the
+concession is that a road is made through the mountains to the Pacific
+Coast, in order to provide communication with the rest of Chile. At the
+present all transport goes to the Atlantic, and only Argentine money
+is used. The company has not started the work with the road yet, and
+nobody knows if it will ever be able to bring it to an end before its
+time has elapsed. The cost is tremendous.
+
+The director was not at home, but his manager, an Englishman from
+South Africa, showed us great hospitality. In his company we made an
+excursion far into the valley, where the open ground comes to an end
+and the roble forest replaces it. We here met one of the most notable
+Patagonian mammals, the small tuco-tuco (_Ctenomys magellanicus_), a
+lovely gnawer, somewhat recalling the lemming. It lives on the roots
+of plants and digs labyrinths of tunnels, completely undermining
+the soil. Without suspecting anything you come along at a canter;
+suddenly the horse goes through with his front legs. You had better
+proceed cautiously or you will easily get your horse hurt. Sometimes
+it is not possible to avoid the tuco-tuco ground. We had to cross the
+river several times before we came to the forest-belt; here for the
+first time I saw the Andine deer, the huemul (_Furcifer chilensis_),
+in company with the condor supporter in Chile’s coat-of-arms. Like
+other deer the huemul is of elegant appearance; its colour is light
+brown with white on the belly. The horns are no remarkable trophy;
+generally they only have four points. Fifty years ago the huemul was
+regarded as a rare animal; there was even a time when he was almost
+as mythological as the unicorn or the griffin; but from the Boundary
+Commission we learnt that he is common in the dry forest-belt east
+of the Andes. There his well-marked paths cross each other in all
+directions, running from the mountain-meadows down to the streams in
+the valleys. This day I regarded him only as a friend of nature does,
+but later we welcomed him in order to see his life’s blood. However, we
+never killed for the sport of it.
+
+We were just back in the farm and it was getting dark when we heard
+the sounds of an approaching caravan, which soon arrived--horsemen, a
+troop, and the high-wheeled pampas carriage. It was the director, Mr.
+Brand, who had arrived from the coast. He brought his wife and a baby
+one month old with him; they had been shaken a fortnight on the rough
+camp, but did not look any the worse for that. Mr. Brand seemed very
+enthusiastic in his work, but told the rather amusing story that the
+company’s directors in London are so despotic that he dared not shear
+a sheep without asking permission by telegraph! Concerning the future,
+he did not hide from himself that it looked dark for the moment, but
+better days might, of course, be in store. Many a time as one is
+looking out over the fertile subandine valleys one is ready to listen
+to those optimists who prophesy a splendid future. They please your
+eye--well-watered meadows, streams of great horse-power, forests with
+good timber, and the Cordillera with all its grandeur. The lack of
+communications, however, is the great drawback, causing the ruin of
+people, especially if they have to clear roads to Chile!
+
+Our way south was closed by the mountains round the Lakes Fontana and
+La Plata, and we found it better to make a _détour_ round the foot of
+the mountains out on the open pampas, which truly was not in accordance
+with our principles. At the pass over the Senguerr river, the outlet of
+the above-mentioned lakes, a German has established a combined store
+and public-house. Further down the river live some colonists. It looked
+as if Rio Senguerr had devoured all the water of the neighbourhood.
+Under a broiling Sunday sun we rode into the mountains, but nowhere a
+drop of running water--one lagoon after the other, so white that one
+tasted the salt far off, green grass and nice flowers, but not the
+characteristic fringe of brushwood indicating a murmuring brook. This
+day we came across the largest herd of guanacos we ever saw, not less
+than four or five hundred, a magnificent sight.
+
+We had now spent a couple of days in Argentina. Again we arrived in
+Chile, but that did not help us, for we had to ride thirty-four miles
+before we found water. Down in a valley a dark band of foliage wound;
+out of it the white skeletons of dead trees stood gaunt and lone,
+promising us a regular camp-fire. Round the east basin of Rio Aysen
+with its numerous tributaries Chile has drawn its frontier-line. Again
+we were among forests and mountains, and the open spaces which are
+not a result of man’s labour are easily counted. Our way led into the
+valley of Rio Ñirehuao, where well-developed terraces on the sides
+attracted our attention, and on November 25 we reached the first
+_estancia_ belonging to Compañía Industrial del Rio Aysen, where a kind
+Scotchman offered us such dainties as we had forgotten the existence
+of--milk, butter, bread, all fresh. Very soon we got to know that we
+were back in the forest region. Spoilt by dry and sunny weather, we
+did not like to experience cold or rain or snow. To the east the sky
+was clear over the steppe, to the west a rainy fog rested heavily on
+the forest-clad ridges. In a snowstorm we left this place in order to
+ride down to the main _estancia_. The company has made a road between
+the two places, which, considering the difficulties, cannot be called
+bad at all. We met a party of shepherds employed in lamb-marking. Ewes
+and lambs had been driven together into large flocks; there was a
+bleating in all sorts of keys. The lambs are driven into one paddock,
+the mothers into another. The small, kicking beasts are caught, and
+off comes the tail and the ear is bitten through! If it be a ram
+he is castrated: a cut, and the testicles are hauled out with the
+teeth--certainly not a very agreeable, but nevertheless a practical
+method. Then the poor creatures are let loose, and rush in among the
+ewes with wild jumps, making a sorry music looking for their mothers.
+
+The route winds over a _meseta_, reaches a height of about 3000 feet,
+and drops again into the Coyaike valley: the river is one of Rio
+Aysen’s tributaries. It rained hard when we rode through the high roble
+forest; the farther west we came the worse was the road, in some places
+hardly passable. For long stretches it was plastered with sticks,
+giving our horses much trouble and bringing them innumerable lashes.
+Some of the rebellious ones took their own way through the thickets
+and gave us extra work. Here and there the forest had been burnt, and
+sheep ran about among the black skeletons. Pavo, who, according to his
+custom, regarded sheep exactly as guanacos, soon got his hide well
+tanned; it was not very pleasant to come as guests to a farm with a dog
+who would worry sheep.
+
+The sun burst forth; from a hill we beheld the Aysen valley at our
+feet; here and there a bend of the river was visible between thick
+foliage, which glittered from the rain; about eight miles further down
+we saw the houses of Coyaike bajo, our destination, and in the evening
+of November 26 we made our entry there. It was the biggest place we
+had seen since Bariloche; the houses are arranged in two lines with a
+broad street between them, and Flax as well as Johansson, who had never
+seen anything so imposing, visibly protested against such an excess of
+civilization. The head of the place, Mr. Dun, was not at home, but he
+had written to his people, evidently asking them to treat us well, for
+they did so, promising to put people and horses at our disposal, so
+that our own animals got a week which they sorely needed to gorge upon
+fat grass and heal their backs.
+
+Here, amidst the wildest wilderness, on all sides surrounded by virgin
+forests and mountains, was a small piece of old England--English
+language, food, and customs. Many a spare hour we spent in Mr.
+Stewart’s cosy home, where he and his old wife vied with each other
+in taking care of us, offering us all sorts of dainties, almost too
+sharply contrasting with our plain diet.
+
+Our principal task here was to ride down to the Pacific, using the
+road made by the company. We borrowed a troop of big, strong horses, a
+mule for the cargo, and a small, fat Chilote boy. Pagels had to stop
+behind, well occupied with mending and darning our damaged property.
+At a cost of 350,000 pesos the company has constructed a road of
+fifty-one miles down to the mouth of Rio Aysen, unlike even the worst
+road you may find in the United Kingdom. We must not expect too much,
+however, for the difficulties here are enormous. Across or round narrow
+abysses, climbing zigzag, through stony, rushing waters, on narrow
+bridges over the precipices, thus runs the first and best part of
+it. Then come the steep granite barrancas along the river, where the
+road has been blasted in the shape of a shelf in the wall. It makes a
+turn and crosses the Baguales ridge. Here is the boundary between the
+easier roble forest and the evergreen one, which I have introduced to
+the reader on several occasions. Once more we entered the kingdom of
+eternal rain. On both sides the forest stands, dense as a wall, with
+bamboo thickets and creepers high up in trees, and the limited space
+left is filled by half-rotten trunks. A never-ceasing rain completes
+the picture. The poncho is heavy as lead with water, and our boots are
+filled slowly but surely. Now and then our steeds shake off the water,
+and then fall into their old _tempo_ again. The road is terrible.
+The horses wade knee-deep through a tough clay or a loose black
+mud, where one never knows how deep it is to the bottom and where the
+entangled roots trip them up. Now and then, often for half a mile or
+so, the road is plastered with sticks; here one does not sink down, but
+it is slippery as glass instead, and we are filled with admiration of
+the surefootedness of the horses. On downward slopes it felt like it
+might feel riding down a staircase, an experience I never had.
+
+[Illustration: PATAGONIAN RAIN-FOREST.]
+
+We halted at Rio Mañiuales--thus named because there are large
+quantities of mañiú (in this case _Saxegothea conspicua_) on its
+banks. It is the largest tributary, and Halle and I resolved to stop
+there; Quensel ferried across it and continued down to the coast. With
+dripping clothes we sat down by the hearth in the small cottage where
+the ferryman lives, and soon his three little girls gathered round us,
+curiously looking at the travellers from a far country. Their mother
+offered us a cup of tea and told us about the monotonous life in the
+forest. Sometimes the rain makes the road impassable and one is cut off
+from the rest of the world, sometimes the river rises, causing serious
+inundations: last spring it had carried away one of the ferries and
+threatened the house with disaster. She was very proud of her husband,
+who was away for the day, and showed us his medal with three clasps
+from the South African War. For once the climate gave up its bad ways
+and we got a comparatively fine day with only a few showers. The air
+was filled with the strong scent of _laurel_ (_Laurelia serrata_, order
+_Monimiaceæ_) and _arrayán_ (_Myrceugenia apiculata_, a myrtle-tree),
+the _corcolén_ (_Azara lanceolata_, order _Flacourtiaceæ_) was
+completely covered with golden mimosa balls, the _ciruelillo_
+(_Embothrium coccineum_, order _Proteaceæ_) was on fire with clusters
+of crimson flowers. Yellow violets, fine orchids, mimulus, and
+calceolarias adorned the soil. At the river the bamboo (_Chusquea
+colihue_) showed a luxuriance I did not see in any other place--about
+30 feet high, and so thick that it could be used for building purposes.
+One would hardly believe that it is only two or three days’ journey to
+the dry steppe.
+
+Quensel returned after a boat-trip to Puerto Chacabuco, with greetings
+from “el Pacifico,” and now we all went back. We had reached our
+goal, had made a botanical as well as geological section through the
+mountains, and the following days were spent in detailed studies of
+certain interesting places. On our return, just as we were about to
+climb the slopes of the Baguales hill, we heard shouting from above,
+and slowly a caravan of bullock-carts came down the sharp turns of
+the road. As one sees these monstrous carts with their three or four
+pairs of oxen one understands what it costs to keep a forest road in
+order. We had to wait till they had passed. Progress is not rapid; they
+need three days for the trip. Now and then we met Chilotes occupied in
+repairing the road after the devastations of the spring flood.
+
+In Coyaike we bought provisions for the next part of our journey.
+Hitherto we had met people now and then and found great assistance, but
+between Aysen and Lake San Martín, where we intended to make our next
+stay, we could hardly count on meeting any inhabitants after the first
+days of march. We thus had to carry with us everything except meat, and
+the load was almost heavier than at our first start. The provisions,
+calculated to last thirty days, consisted of about the same variety as
+before. However, we could get neither oatmeal nor biscuits, but had to
+bring a flour-bag. The result was that bread was of rare occurrence on
+our table. It took too much time to make it; pancakes were easier made;
+besides, it was good to have something to long for and to celebrate
+feast-days with.
+
+From Puerto Montt we had sent a box by steamer to Aysen; there was
+paper for drying plants, spirits, formaline, &c. We left two boxes of
+collections in care of the company to be forwarded to Punta Arenas;
+only in this way was it possible to make more extensive collections. We
+had already sent one box from Lelej and another from Valle Frias, and
+we hoped to find them all on our arrival.
+
+On December 3 our caravan started again. On account of the rest and
+the good grass our horses were very fresh, and with greater speed than
+usual we disappeared between the forest-groves, followed by the waving
+of the Aysen people.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+LAKE BUENOS AIRES
+
+
+During the first few hours we followed the Coyaike valley back the
+same way we had come, and then turned south in order to cross a ridge,
+separating us from the Mayo valley, which did not look very inviting.
+A disagreeable yellow-brown colour told us that we should find the
+crossing of it unpleasant. Generally we all used to ride after the
+troop, two just behind and one on each flank, but here we came to a
+passage where two of us had to keep ahead of the caravan and survey
+the camp, or we might be bogged without a warning. The swamps are very
+treacherous here, and sometimes we climbed a hill to get a view of the
+terrain. Now and then we tried to follow the track of a guanaco; this
+is, however, no particularly safe device, for where the light guanaco
+can pass a heavy horse might easily sink down. I rode Solo for the
+first time after his recovery. He sank up to his girths twice, and I
+had to throw myself off instantly and get him on safe ground again. Rio
+Mayo presents a good example of a very small brook offering serious
+difficulties. If a stream, running deep down in a sort of furrow with
+the peat projecting like a shelf above the water, is so broad that it
+cannot be jumped, it is anything but easy to get the horses across. It
+is not so bad if there is a firm bed, but in many cases the animal
+sinks deep down in loose mud and is lost. Also a bed of sand or gravel
+may be troublesome; even if one can urge the beast down it is much
+labour to get him up again, the peat everywhere giving way under his
+hoofs. It is of the utmost importance to find a suitable ford, even if
+it should cost you loss of time. Along a considerable distance of Rio
+Mayo we found only one place where we could cross this insignificant
+stream, and it took us half an hour’s hard labour before we had the
+horses safe on the other side. The main thing is to master the mare;
+the others will follow her--if they are not like Ruckel or Jeremias,
+who had wills of their own and nearly turned our hair grey.
+
+The Mayo valley is said to be one of the last refuges for half-wild
+Tehuelches, living in their _toldos_ in the ancient manner. We did not
+see any traces of them, but at a distance sighted a _rancho_, horses
+and cattle indicating that the valley was inhabited. We had no time to
+stop.
+
+In front of us lay a great obstacle, a _meseta_ raising its barrancas
+to a height of 4750 feet. There is a path cut through the forest west
+of this mountain, but it had not been used for a long time and was said
+to be almost impassable; the people in Aysen had advised us not to try
+it--they did not know anything of the _meseta_ itself, but thought it
+would be easier to cross it. To ride round its east end is simple,
+but did not suit our plans. Meseta Chalía, named thus because the Rio
+Chalía originates on its west plateaus, consists of loose material and
+lacks the basaltic crust that made the table-mountains so dreaded. But
+we were soon to see that the difficulties were not less here.
+
+A trying climb commenced, and leading the horses in zigzag we reached
+the edge of the plateau, extending in front of us level as a floor
+and covered with round stones like cobbles; it reminded us of the
+marketplace in a small town. For the most part there was no vegetation,
+only strips of a meagre heath of diddledee, strikingly recalling Alpine
+tundra. We waited some minutes to recover our breath, and then set out.
+Some few steps--what does this mean? The pavement, looking so firm and
+safe, will not bear us! Between the blocks, which fret the skin, the
+horses go down into a terrible viscous stuff: when the snow melted
+the soil had been saturated with water--it is what geologists call
+solifluction, though the soil does not move, the ground being fairly
+horizontal. Some snow-patches were still left; at their edge there was
+no bottom. It was desperate work. To ride was not to be thought of;
+we tramped and tramped, dragging our saddle-horses and whipping the
+others. We struggled to get on to the firm strips of heath where we
+could breathe a moment, which we really deserved, for the misery lasted
+several hours. Suddenly we found ourselves at the edge of a ravine,
+so steep that we had not observed it till we were close on it. Every
+small brook, fed by the snowdrifts, has cut a very deep canyon; the
+sides are clad with thickets of ñire, dense as a hawthorn hedge, and
+the bottom is filled up by wretched swamps. But we must go down it. The
+horses disappeared in the thick carpet, the loads were caught up by the
+branches, and we needed all our energy to assemble the caravan in the
+bottom of the ravine, where we found a very welcome camping-place. The
+next morning we first worked our way out of the canyon, and stood on
+the plateau again ready to recommence the fight. It grew still worse
+than the day before. Not even the patches of heath bore us; the horses
+strove to get there, only to find them occupied by the burrows of the
+tuco-tuco. Numerous ravines had to be crossed; we made a small _détour_
+higher up on the _meseta_, where we crossed the last, or rather first,
+rivulets on snow-bridges, at a height of 4600 feet. It was ridiculous
+to see the horses’ fright at the snow, hitherto only seen from some
+distance. They required both abuse and the whip, but eventually obeyed,
+and that was the principal thing.
+
+Finally we stood at the end of the _meseta_. Three thousand feet below
+extended the Koslowsky valley, with inviting green meadows; on the
+other side was another _meseta_, and to our right was the main range
+of the Andes, blue and violet in the pale evening light. Now arose the
+question of getting down into the fine valley, which was more easily
+said than done. The slope fell away perilously near a right angle.
+It was furrowed by numerous rivulets, hidden under entangled ñire
+thickets. We prospected along the edge of the plateau, and, as nothing
+better could be seen, chose the least uninviting of the ravines. I
+daresay none of us will ever forget that descent. Hardly able to find
+foothold, the horses simply slid down the slopes; now and then one
+fell, but got on his feet again; another broke away, made desperate
+efforts to gallop up again, and then stopped without knowing what
+to do. I do not remember how many times we had to let go the horses,
+climb up on hands and knees, and drive down the much-cursed Ruckel,
+but I know he tried our patience to the utmost. Rather shaken, we and
+the horses eventually reached the bottom of the ravine. The slopes
+were clad with forest-growth and were very steep, and our only chance
+was to follow the dry, stony river-bed, where huge blocks sometimes
+barred the way. Thousands of trunks had rolled down from the sides,
+forming irregular barricades and stopping the march times innumerable.
+The horses lost their senses, rushed at the sides, dashed into blind
+alleys, turned round and tried to get back up the canyon. We divided
+the troop up, each of us taking charge of some animals. Step by step
+we advanced, giving encouraging shouts, and lashing and chasing
+fugitives, who baffled all our efforts to keep order. Here indeed was
+a good opportunity for Jeremias to distinguish himself, and to be
+sure he did not fail. Lagging behind for a second, he took advantage
+of an unguarded moment, turned aside, and climbed up through the
+forest with a speed and energy that he never showed otherwise, and
+disappeared. A special expedition was sent to fetch him down--and he
+got a well-deserved thrashing. I had always suspected that horses have
+not got much real intelligence, but after studying them in all sorts of
+situations I _know_ that they have not.
+
+By-and-by, when the slopes became less steep and the forest higher and
+less dense, we took refuge in it. One of us acted as guide, and with
+some patience one could get the _yegua_ to follow; then it was the
+business of the drivers to keep the others together. With loud shouts
+of joy we greeted the open ground--though we _could_ easily keep from
+laughing when we discovered that the tuco-tuco had taken possession
+of it. At some distance a large animal sprang to its feet, made some
+cat-like leaps, and was out of sight. Pagels said that it was a puma
+(_Felis concolor_), and very likely it was. The puma, here generally
+called “el león,” is the largest and most dangerous of the carnívora in
+Patagonia. He is very common, but seldom seen, keeping out of the way
+by day. He does not assault man unless wounded, but takes to his heels.
+However, he is the most dreaded enemy of the sheep, killing them not
+only for food, but also for the sport of it. Often he returns to his
+prey, and advantage is taken of that habit to poison the carcass with
+strychnine, and the next day may find the puma only a few yards from
+the lamb. To our surprise we did not at once find a camping-place with
+running water; several of the rivulets from the _meseta_ disappeared in
+the swamps at its foot. But finally we found an idyllic little place,
+and were not long in off-saddling. Both we and the horses were longing
+for a rest. We had marched ten hours without stopping; and even if the
+distance did not much exceed twenty miles we did not feel ashamed of
+the result.
+
+It proved necessary to give the horses a day’s rest. For us these days
+were no rest; generally they were employed in long excursions on foot.
+The flora of the Koslowsky valley is rich in species, the summer had
+now come, and a lot of plants, new to me, were in full flower.
+
+We were without meat, and Quensel went to look for human dwellings,
+which were reported as existing in the valley, while Pagels took the
+Winchester and went to shoot something. In the evening we were all back
+in the camp, each with his prey. Quensel had met a _mestizo_, who led
+him to his _rancho_ and gave him meat. Pagels returned with some small
+ducks and a hen eagle; she had some very welcome eggs inside her, which
+were delightful in the soup. We had had a very meagre diet the last few
+days, but now made up for the loss. Quensel had promised the people in
+the _rancho_ that we would visit them when we crossed the valley. Their
+miserable hut, almost a veritable _toldo_, lay hidden in a valley--the
+small river joins Rio Huemules, which in its turn discharges into
+Aysen. The husband, José, was of mixed breed, half Chilean, half
+Araucanian; his wife was pure Indian and had been a real beauty. We
+sat down with the family; evidently we were expected, for when the
+lid was taken off the cauldron it was found to contain rice-gruel. As
+far as I know I never showed any predilection for this dish before,
+and to-day it seems peculiar that I then ate three platefuls with
+great gusto. So it was, however. José told us that there was quite a
+new and small settlement on the other side of the valley, and gave us
+directions for our march. After a while we came to a cottage, where
+half a dozen sheep-dogs rushed out barking frantically and calling
+out the inhabitant. He was an Englishman called Brookes, a very nice
+man, who had settled with about 2000 sheep and seemed to enjoy his
+life thoroughly. With him lived also a Dane, who was glad to find his
+native tongue for once understood. Brookes is one of the few camp-men
+I met who was interested in nature; he started to speak of the steppe
+flora, and showed me a couple of rare plants that he had in his garden.
+We wanted to get on after a short while, but the kind souls were so
+persistent and we found ourselves so comfortable that we resolved to
+stop for the night, the more so as the Dane, Espersen, offered to show
+us the best pass over to the next valley. In the evening Mr. Lundberg,
+from Kuopio, in Finland, came riding in, and invited us to visit his
+place further west in the valley, which we were sorry not to be able
+to do. His mother-tongue was Finnish; once he had also spoken some
+Swedish, but five-and-twenty years had made him forget both and he had
+never learnt a new language thoroughly. He was best acquainted with
+English. His case is not unique, I am sure.
+
+The Koslowsky valley lies only a thousand feet above the sea and looks
+fertile. Probably it will be colonized before long. In this connection
+the following story from the boundary dispute may be told. According
+to the rule that water-divide = boundary, this valley would have gone
+to Chile as well as the Aysen district. But Argentina put forth the
+following impressive facts: it was already colonized (there was a
+scheme), one could point to the Casa Koslowsky (a wooden hut) on the
+map, and last, not least, there was a photo of the telegraph-line
+there--this telegraph-line I have myself seen on more than one
+Argentine map. At the house there are fourteen telegraph-posts, with
+a wire coming from nowhere and going nowhere; inside is apparatus
+that never spoke and piles of paper strips on the floor. By the award
+Argentina kept all the valuable part of the valley.
+
+It was December 8 when, in company with Mr. Espersen, we started to
+cross the pass along the east slope of Meseta Guenguel and descend
+to the large depression where Lake Buenos Aires extends--the largest
+of the Patagonian lakes. It was an agreeable ride in bends and turns
+between the forest-patches. The rise was not so bad but that it
+permitted us to remain on horseback all the time, and at 3400 feet we
+reached our highest point; from there we beheld the vast expanse of
+the lake, with blue mountains behind. In the east the lake reaches
+the pampas; the western arms penetrate far into the mountains, as far
+as the edge of the inland ice, with a row of giant summits making
+one of the most magnificent pieces of scenery of Andine landscape,
+and culminating in the two peaks San Clemente and San Valentín, the
+latter with its 13,000 feet being the highest mountain in Patagonia. On
+the maps as well as in descriptions these mountains are often called
+volcanoes, but there is no foundation for such a designation; probably
+they are of the same nature as San Lorenzo, mentioned below.
+
+Lake Buenos Aires has a surface area of about 800 square miles, thus
+being almost four times as large as the Boden lake. We were sorry not
+to have a boat, and had to keep along the shore. The lake empties in
+Rio Baker; as the reader will remember, we were close to its mouth in
+June. We camped early that day. Quensel and Pagels went to prepare the
+dinner and I got time to look at the vegetation. On the sandy banks
+near the river Fenix, where we had our camp, I found quite a number
+of species I did not know, of which several had just been described
+as from other parts of Patagonia. Halle continued his studies in the
+geology of the table-mountains; here he also found fossil plants.
+
+When we got back Quensel had baked bread, and otherwise made extensive
+preparations for a feast; that is to say, he had boiled a potful of
+dried figs, all in order to impress our guest, who stayed for the
+night. I suspect that he had been used to far better kitchens than
+ours. The next morning we parted; he went back and we continued along
+the Fenix valley. It was as if midsummer had come at a bound. The air
+was oppressive, the sand burnt, the horses dripped with sweat, and
+every time we tracked a bend of the river the dogs plunged into the
+cold water to cool their sore feet. Rio Fenix winds in innumerable
+serpentines, bordered by a green fringe; now it leaves a level plateau
+free at the foot of the barranca, now it cuts so close into it that one
+must pass with caution.
+
+We sit half dozing in the saddle, too warmly dressed for a day like
+this, when suddenly there is a stir. Now and then we have passed a
+small troop of guanacos, but not even the dogs had taken any interest
+in them. At once we discover that they have young ones amongst them;
+the dogs are after them and there is a wild hunt. At first the guanacos
+gain, the small ones straining every endeavour to keep up with the
+others, and they show a tremendous turn of speed. Now one falls
+behind, the gap between the small one and the fleeing herd widens; the
+dogs are there: now it is for us to interfere, or they will tear him
+to pieces and spoil the meat. It is a very pretty little thing, about
+a fortnight or three weeks old, with beautiful wool like yellowish
+red silk on the back and with a white belly. In triumph it is brought
+to the caravan and added to the load. If one can call the meat of
+full-grown guanaco very eatable, which I maintain is no exaggeration,
+that of the young must certainly be characterized as delicious; it
+tastes like the finest veal, and I refuse to tell how much we ate the
+first time we had it.
+
+Only very occasionally is the guanaco killed for the sake of its meat;
+on the whole the older animals are seldom hunted, but the younger
+more often. Their skin is very much appreciated, and is used for the
+celebrated _quillangos_ (mantles), which every traveller who passes
+Punta Arenas or any of the small ports on the Atlantic is able to
+procure. Even if he has not time to go on shore he may be pretty sure
+they will come on board; the deck is soon carpeted with products in the
+way of fur from Patagonia--guanaco and fox, puma and ostrich, and the
+valuable otter from the Channels. And every passenger steamer brings
+with it quite a collection of skins and imitation Indian curiosities,
+all sold at advanced prices for the occasion. A common guanaco mantle
+measures ten to eleven square feet, and is made of from thirteen to
+fifteen young animals. In Punta Arenas it costs fifty to eighty pesos,
+according to the exchange, for in reality one has to pay in English
+pounds and shillings. Another kind of mantle is made only from the
+soft skin of the head and legs of the full-grown guanaco; it requires
+a very great number of animals, and prices run high; I very seldom saw
+these offered for sale. The beginning of December is the season for
+the guanaco-hunters; they swarm in certain parts of the Andine pampas,
+and for the most part do a thriving business. We saw their fires on
+the north slope of the Fenix valley. I have heard there are some
+game-laws for guanacos and ostriches, but they are probably ignored,
+for it is hardly possible to maintain any effective control in the vast
+uninhabited territories.
+
+Hardly had we begun to move again when the next “plucked and roasted
+pigeon flew into our mouths.” It was a small armadillo, a common
+_Dasypus minutus_. The small armoured ball rolled away, but did not
+reach its hole before we had it. After a while we caught another.
+These animals are delicious cooked and eaten cold, or roasted in their
+hard coats. He who has been lucky enough to try a pig roasted whole
+in a Scania parsonage can imagine what an armadillo is like. Small
+baskets made of varnished armadillo, with its tail in its mouth, are
+among the most common souvenirs brought from Argentina. These animals
+belong to an order that in ancient times played an important part. The
+surviving species are dwarfs in comparison with those which lived on
+the pampas during the Tertiary period, true giants, the armour of which
+is beautifully represented in the collection of the famous Museo de La
+Plata.
+
+We had not come across armadillos till we came to the Fenix valley;
+later on we saw them at times, and they never had time to get clear,
+since we knew what they were good for. They live on locusts and other
+insects, and to judge from the contents of their stomachs there is no
+lack of such.
+
+The midday sun became too hot for us, and especially for our horses;
+nowhere was there an inch of shade, but nevertheless we made a halt at
+the river, off-saddled, and took a rest. We wanted to make tea, but
+not being used to the great heat and drought, we were not cautious
+enough in making a fire. In less than a second the grass all round was
+all ablaze, and the fire rapidly spread with the wind, threatening
+our baggage, which was instantly taken out of reach of it, though not
+without some small losses. However, we had to isolate it without delay,
+and the coffee-pot, the cauldron, and Quensel’s waterproof hat sped to
+and fro from the river, while we at the same time tried to stamp out
+the flaming tussocks. After an hour’s work the danger, which might have
+had serious consequences, was nipped in the bud.
+
+Further down the river we came upon a sort of peculiar bush-vegetation,
+well worth being studied, and we stayed there the next day. Accompanied
+by Halle, I strolled about all day, and went back loaded with
+specimens. The bushes, fine species of _Lycium_, _Verbena_, and others,
+were in full flower everywhere in the hot sand; beautiful yellow
+flowers of _Alstrœmeria pygmæa_ peeped out, as well as small spiny
+cactus with large yellow, red, and white blossoms. I had to find out a
+method of conveying the prickly things with me, but they landed home in
+good condition. Between the tussocks many-coloured lizards scurried to
+and fro, black and yellow, brown with red and white markings or with
+a copper lustre--always making me think of Pagels, who entertained an
+inextinguishable passion for these animals. All of a sudden we would
+see him stop, jump from his horse, and pursue some speedy lizard, that
+often was caught in his cap, to be afterwards transferred to an old
+pickle-bottle he carried in his _maletas_. The bottle always leaked,
+and when he looked at his treasures Pagels always lamented: “Herr
+Doktor, jetzt gehen meine Eidechsen _vollkommen_ kaputt!”
+
+When Quensel and Pagels, who had been out doing geology and hunting,
+returned we all took a bath in the river. The hunting had yielded poor
+results; they had come across some guanacos, but the feet of the dogs
+were so damaged by the hot sand that not even the young could attract
+them. By the river were plenty of geese, and with regret we thought of
+our gun; with the Winchester we got only a scraggy gander.
+
+At sunset it grew rapidly chilly, and the thermometer fell to
+freezing-point, 32° F., which did not prevent its running up next day
+to 86° F. in the shade again. We followed the river for some distance,
+and then took a short cut across the hilly country down to Lake Buenos
+Aires. Here we chanced among a veritable labyrinth of sand-dunes.
+We started to look for ostrich eggs, and succeeded in finding two;
+unfortunately they were addled. Such eggs! The only drawback is that
+it takes twenty minutes to boil them, and then they are but lightly
+boiled. The reason we did not follow the river was that it runs east
+for some miles before turning south, and finally west, emptying
+into the lake. It is a rather peculiar river. Just east of its bend
+another river, the Deseado, starts from a swamp, fed by occasional
+tributaries from the north; further down other streams join it, and
+now visible, now disappearing in the marshes, it runs across Patagonia
+and discharges into the Atlantic. The water-parting between Deseado
+and Fenix--_i.e._, between the Atlantic and the Pacific--is very
+insignificant. Rio Fenix has only just abandoned its old course to the
+Atlantic, and it was possible for Dr. Moreno to remove some of the
+morainic material and coax it back for a while. Even now it sometimes
+sends water to Rio Deseado.
+
+At the east end of the lake there is almost a desert--dry, stony plains
+where the few plants look like monsters, to such a degree have they
+adapted themselves to an abnormal life. One is agreeably surprised
+when suddenly the canyon of Fenix river opens at one’s feet; there is
+luscious green grass; the horses betray delight at this sight, and it
+is easier than usual to drive them down the steep barranca. We made our
+camp not far from the outlet of the river, where traces of one of the
+encampments of the Boundary Commission still remained.
+
+Our supply of meat was finished, the dogs had to live on their own
+fat--not much to speak of--and we made inroads upon our poor vegetables.
+
+A cool breeze from the lake welcomed us as we rode out of the canyon to
+go round the east end of the big water, and the waves broke in over the
+shingle, which was adorned by large-flowered yellow œnotheras. I have
+seldom seen anything more inanimate than nature here. There was not a
+bird to be seen on the water, not an animal in the ravines running down
+to the shore from the south; here and there white guanaco bones gleamed
+in the bushes, but not a living thing was to be seen. We made a halt in
+the canyon of Rio Chilcas and camped. A rumour had spoken of fossils
+having been found there. Quensel and Halle were busy looking for them;
+I myself spent the time as usual, and Pagels tried to replenish our
+pantry, but he returned empty-handed, and supper was identical with
+breakfast--pancakes of wheat-flour and water!
+
+[Illustration: FENIX RIVER.]
+
+[Illustration: VALLEY OF ANTIGUOS RIVER LOOKING SOUTH.]
+
+On the north shore of the lake there is a small settlement that we did
+not see; otherwise the whole region is uninhabited, in spite of the
+good grass along Fenix and south of the lake, which lies only 712 feet
+above sea-level, for which reason the winters cannot be very severe. An
+abandoned _rancho_ not far from the Chilcas valley showed that people
+have lived here for some time. The geologists’ efforts proved futile,
+which did not surprise them; the kind of rock was not promising for
+the discovery of fossil remains, and we resolved to leave the place
+and move our camp to Rio Jeinemeni, which we were to follow to a pass
+across the mountains. We left the lake, but enjoyed a last sight of it,
+following the shore at some distance, and higher up making for Rio de
+los Antiguos, which runs parallel with Rio Jeinemeni, and the canyon
+of which we should have to cross. We rested an hour near some lagoons,
+and in vain tried to get some birds--there were numbers of black-necked
+swans and ducks, but the swans kept far off from the shore and the
+ducks hid themselves in the reeds. At random we cut across a plateau
+to reach the river, and there we had a narrow escape. Arrived at the
+edge of the canyon, we saw the river whirling below, and the barranca
+was about 450 feet high. How were we to get down? A safe method would
+have been to follow the river down and cross it near the mouth, as we
+could see from the map that it must be more fordable there; however,
+this meant loss of time and did not suit us. We experienced the truth
+of the proverb “More haste less speed.” We rode to a point from where
+we got a view up the valley, but nowhere could we see a passage; all
+along the barranca fell away almost vertically. Just below our feet,
+however, was a sandy slope with some bushes, falling off at an angle
+of 45°; what came after we could not see, the rest of the barranca
+being too steep to be visible from where we were. But Pagels assured us
+that he could see a “very good place,” and we started to slide down.
+It went all right for a while, though it was, of course, some time
+before we got the horses to understand what a fine way we had found
+for them. Our delight was of short duration; after a few minutes we
+found ourselves at the top of a hard, nearly vertical sandstone wall
+without the slightest trace of vegetation. To turn back was out of the
+question. Fortunately the mountain here is furrowed by small streams
+during the spring floods, and there was nothing to be done but climb
+down one of the ravines, where stones and loose blocks, plunging down
+at the slightest touch, made the descent very risky. We had hard work
+to force the horses down the ravine. It was so narrow (the section was
+=V=-shaped) that we had to crawl in single file. Repeatedly a horse
+would dash at the sides; instantly he had to be driven back, or he
+went to certain death. Step by step they were literally whipped down,
+sliding and falling, stumbling on treacherous blocks; the whip brought
+them to their feet again, and one after the other landed safely in
+the thickets at the foot of the barranca. Pagels had remained behind
+to look for Ruckel, who on this day was carrying tent and provisions;
+he had refused to come with the other horses, and disappeared in the
+bushes to find his own private way down. Quensel and Halle climbed
+up to see what was going forward, but I found waiting tiresome, tied
+the horses, and climbed the wall following another ravine. I had come
+half-way when I stopped and shouted, but did not get any answer. I
+could see nothing; climbed down again and walked along the foot, and
+suddenly a dreadful sight met my eyes. Half-way up the wall, at the
+end of a small ravine ending abruptly, stood Ruckel, with his load
+hanging loose, his legs entangled in the ropes, trembling from head to
+foot, and without the most microscopical chance of getting up or down,
+to right or left. Straight above him on the slope were my comrades.
+How had he got there? He had fallen, tumbled down sideways with load
+and all, rolled about 90 feet, and was lucky to recover his foothold
+at the very last moment; another inch and he would have been dashed
+to pieces. Halle and Quensel had seen him fall, and hastened up to
+end his sufferings with a merciful bullet; to their immense surprise
+they found him standing upright. The small space where he was able to
+keep on his feet sloped down; at any moment his strength might give
+out and he would be precipitated down and probably killed, for below
+him the barranca sloped _inward_. There seemed nothing to be done. I
+climbed up till I stood under him; the ropes were cut and the things
+lowered down to me, and I carried them down. As far as we could see
+the beast was not much injured, and was only bleeding very little, so
+we of course wanted to save him. Just below him, to the left, a small
+ridge protruded; could we get him across it, there was a small ravine
+leading down. Lying on his stomach and clinging to the projections on
+the rock in a manner hardly believable, Pagels dug some steps in the
+sandstone with my sheath-knife, Ruckel regarding him immovable as the
+Sphinx. Pagels crept down, tugged at the _cabresta_--well, I hardly
+know what happened; some rapid steps half in the air, an instant he
+lay floundering and kicking with his belly across the ridge, then
+was dragged into the ravine and saved! Rubber must have gone to the
+construction of a good deal of his body, for the following morning he
+was not even lame. Ruckel had celebrated Lucia Day in his own original
+way, and now we could laugh at the adventure. When we looked at the
+barranca from below we could hardly believe that we had come down
+there. The affair had cost time, and we saw ourselves forced to camp at
+Rio Antiguos, where another unsuccessful shoot forced us to continue
+our pancake diet and the dogs to go with empty stomachs.
+
+We were off early the next morning, for we wanted to cross the river
+when there was not so much water as later in the day. It was easier
+to climb out of the canyon than it had been to get into it, and so we
+went on to Rio Jeinemeni. This river is the frontier between Chile and
+Argentina. We thought the best way to the pass would be to follow the
+bank of the river, and therefore climbed down into the magnificent
+canyon. There was a stony strip of land along the water where we could
+ride, but owing to the innumerable turns one could not look ahead for
+more than a very short distance at a time. We had not been under way
+long before we had to alight and lead the horses. Now the barranca
+sent sharp ridges out in the water, where a false step would have been
+fatal; now we came across heaps of blocks and _débris_ fallen down
+from the wall, now deep ravines, to get across which one almost needed
+trained circus horses; if one risked remaining in the saddle, one
+hardly escaped getting literally torn off by the tough ñire branches.
+We sent Pagels ahead to signal if any serious obstacle appeared. All
+of a sudden a barranca ran almost vertically down into the river,
+leaving a passage about two or three feet broad. Some bushes increased
+the difficulties. Steady! The mare looks at the water, but it does
+not seem very inviting. Then she throws a glance full of unsatisfied
+desire towards the sky, but 90° was evidently too much for her, and
+anxiously squinting at last she walks the right way, followed by the
+other party in single file. Suddenly full stop! Pagels has stopped to
+clear away some bushes; we shout to him to hurry up, but it is already
+too late. Jeremias has taken the lead. With firm resolution he turns
+right, crosses a branch of the river, and lands on a sandbank, where
+he stops looking more stupid than ever. Evidently the mare finds his
+idea brilliant, and plunges after him, and the other loose horses
+are not behindhand in following their example. We caught one of the
+packhorses before he had time to carry his evil plans into execution;
+but the other, Manasse, was already in the middle of the rapid stream,
+and with mixed feelings we saw the water washing his load. Fortunately
+he carried the cases. There was no time for cogitation; once out in the
+main branch Manasse would probably have perished. Pagels hastened after
+the fugitives and brought them back. It was a narrow escape; we might
+have lost valuable collections, journals, and note-books. The going was
+wretched, but we continued up the river till the barranca made further
+progress absolutely impossible. We climbed up about a thousand feet
+to try if it was not better up there. Pagels was sent ahead with the
+Winchester, and a deer really came within range; however, the distance
+was great, and though hit the animal did not drop, but rushed down the
+slope and fled into Chile--that is to say, he swam over the river,
+where he fell down dead. The dogs rushed after him, threw themselves
+into the water, the current took them, and they were hardly able to
+reach the shore. We did not know if there was any ford; at this hour
+of the day the river looked like boiling mud, and it was not without
+risk to try to wade it. However, Quensel, on Flax, the most reliable
+of our horses, offered to try, and Halle and I drove the troop to a
+suitable halting-place. Pagels stopped at the river to help Quensel.
+Half an hour passed, one hour--we began to get anxious and walked down
+the slope, and were glad indeed to meet them, Flax carrying a pair of
+substantial deer-steaks on the saddle. Quensel had got a bath in the
+river and had had a narrow escape; he declared that with any other
+horse he would not have been successful. “You will never see Pavo any
+more,” he added. We were very sorry at the loss of the dog, but at the
+same time glad that nothing worse had happened--and our sorrow did not
+last long, for whom did we see after a while, lumbering up the slope,
+but Pavo, exhausted and dripping with water.
+
+It had grown late. Quensel’s clothes were soaked, and we resolved to
+camp on the spot, in spite of the fuel being very scarce and the water
+bad. We had to fetch it from a small pond so full of tiny crustaceans
+that it turned quite red when boiled. We had a great feast of venison,
+and both ourselves and the dogs enjoyed a hearty meal. We also found
+time to prospect for the next day, and saw that we must keep high above
+the river; it was a mistake ever to try the bottom of the canyon. We
+resumed at a height of from 2200 to 3000 feet; it turned out all right,
+and we camped at Rio Zeballos, at 3300 feet, the largest tributary to
+Jeinemeni, in the most inviting, dry, fragrant roble-forest. We had a
+cold night and there was thick ice in the coffee-pot when we rose. The
+horses enjoyed the fresh mountain pasturage, and Quensel and I employed
+the day in an excursion on foot up into the mountains. We soon found
+a guanaco-track that we could follow for more than a thousand feet.
+Now and then a guanaco was seen, and once we sat down and remained
+immovable, I with the camera. Making smaller and smaller circles, one
+approached, stopped now and then, gave a neigh and pricked up his ears.
+He felt some anxiety, but curiosity overcame it, and I snapped him from
+about a hundred feet. Later we tried the same manœuvre with a fat deer,
+but I wanted to get closer, and he was frightened and made off. Above
+the forests we climbed over rattling heaps of loose slates; numbers of
+charming Alpine plants were in flower among _débris_ and snowfields,
+and from a crest of 5700 feet we had a splendid view: to the east the
+mighty basalt-covered _meseta_; to the north we cast a last glance at
+Lake Buenos Aires, where the smoke from the guanaco-hunters’ camp was
+still visible; to the west deep, forest-clad valleys and summits, not
+yet found on any map; to the south the Zeballos pass, our battlefield
+for the coming day. We felt monarchs up here, as if these immense Alps,
+the snowdrifts, flowers and noble animals were our property. Never is
+the sense of freedom greater than in the high mountain air with a good
+expanse of the earth below one’s feet. Down we went, faster than we
+had come up; we slid down the steep, loose heaps of stones, half ran
+through the mountain swamps where red-brown geese had their nests,
+and dived into the forest. Only Pavo was in the camp when we arrived
+there. Later Pagels arrived with some guanaco-meat; he had been on the
+_meseta_ where our way led, and said that he had surveyed a beautiful
+track for the march. We received this not uncommon information with
+equanimity, born of long experience.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+LAGO BELGRANO
+
+
+On December 17 we crossed Rio Zeballos and climbed the east side of
+the valley. Pagels was very proud of the route he had planned, but his
+self-importance began to diminish when we came to one swamp after the
+other and had to go round them. The small streams were numerous, and
+had, of course, cut deep ravines, over which we could hardly force
+a way between blocks and thickets; at one place we had to be very
+careful, but the horses managed it very well indeed. The ascent up
+to the pass was better than we had been used to, and we reached the
+highest point at 5000 feet. Large snowdrifts were still left, and the
+ground was very soft. Round the pass are several well-marked peaks
+looking like sentinels, one of them also bearing the name of Cerro
+Centinela. Our way down was longer and gave us more trouble than we had
+counted upon; we had been in the saddle ten hours before we saw the
+first few bushes and could obtain a little shelter behind some rocks
+at the bend of Rio Gio, close to the Chilean frontier. The weather had
+turned out stormy, and a strong wind blew, making it rather difficult
+to cook the dinner, while the rain pelted down as it can only pelt in
+Chile.
+
+Our original plan for the summer had also included a visit to the
+_estancia_ of the Baker Company, whereby we should get another section
+through the mountains; but in consideration of the little time we
+had and the scarcity of provisions we gave it up and rode straight
+south, seeking our way through the winding valleys down towards Lake
+Pueyrredon, where we camped in the last forest-patch on the slope of
+Cerro Principio. The dogs had just captured a fine young guanaco, and
+we made a big fire of ñire branches. The fire was indeed necessary, for
+it was cold and snowy.
+
+The landscape north of Lake Pueyrredon is peculiar enough--an endless
+row of canyons cut down along old cracks, crossing each other in all
+directions or ending blind. Sometimes one could not see a hundred feet
+ahead, and one of us always had to ride in advance and survey the
+ground, otherwise the caravan would have found itself suddenly in a
+cul-de-sac. Often we passed half-dried or even dried-up salt-lagoons.
+Guanacos were plentiful, and from a side valley a hind with her young
+quizzed us, but soon disappeared when the dogs started in chase. On
+the shore of the lake were many geological features reminding one of
+the west coast of Sweden--the same round, ice-polished rocks with
+beautiful glacial striæ, showing that the basin of Pueyrredon-Posadas
+was once filled by an immense glacier. Seen from above these lakes
+present a very remarkable appearance. A narrow neck of land, where
+high sand-dunes are piled up by the frequent westerly gales, separates
+them; the more shallow Posadas looks bluish green, the Pueyrredon dark
+blue. According to the Argentine maps, Lake Posadas lies 367 feet, Lake
+Pueyrredon 364 feet above the sea-level; the former empties into the
+latter by means of a short, deep, rapid river, which in our journals is
+called Rio del Istmo. The outlet of Lake Pueyrredon is Rio Baker.
+
+It is not possible to wade the river--that is to say, with packhorses.
+However, there is a ford outside the mouth in Lake Pueyrredon, where
+a sandbank has been formed over which the waves break heavily when
+there is a high sea. It runs in an irregular bend, and it is far from
+advisable to leave the horses to themselves in crossing. The evening we
+came to the ford it looked bad, for there had been a gale of wind all
+day and the surf was heavy, but we were not at all inclined to put off
+the passage. The soil is very barren here; there are some bushes and
+halophilous plants, but not much grass; we were afraid that the horses
+would wander all night, and could hardly imagine a worse place than
+this for looking for them. For safety’s sake we put _maneas_ not only
+on the mare, but also on the roisterer Vingel, who often led her and
+the rest of the troop into forbidden ways, and then sat down round a
+big blaze of driftwood. We had found half a dozen duck’s eggs, and were
+greatly disappointed to find that they had been sat on; however, we
+could not bring ourselves to throw them away altogether, but took out
+the chicken and used the rest of the yolk in the pancakes. Don’t throw
+away an egg till the chicken has absorbed it all--it is always good for
+something.
+
+The murmur from the sea increased at dawn, and when we had brought
+the horses down among the heaps of driftwood we saw that the surf
+was at least as bad as the day before. Nevertheless we made up our
+minds to try, leading the packhorses. Certainly they did not plunge
+into the water willingly, but were very frightened at the thunder of
+the breakers, and it cost us much trouble and the horses sore hides.
+Everything went off all right, though we of course got wet and the
+loads also received some showers. We had just waded in water, now we
+had to flounder in sand along the sides of the dunes; sometimes they
+were so steep that we preferred to plunge through the shallow reeds of
+Lake Posadas. The southern shore is very different from the northern.
+The mountain here rises straight out of the water to a giddy height as
+seen from below. One feels oppressed, shut in on a narrow, stony strip
+of land, where a stream coming from a deep canyon has split up into
+an extensive delta, and one even wonders how one shall get out again.
+There is only one answer: Climb!
+
+Halle fell behind in order to survey the canyon, where different strata
+were well exposed, and the rest of us climbed 2200 feet in zigzag,
+and sometimes not only the horses were four-legged! On the plateau we
+halted and waited for Halle. Then we crawled along a very steep, stony
+ridge separated by a jagged crest from the valley of Rio Tarde, through
+a natural opening at 3600 feet coming down into this valley. The
+landscape was very desolate--yellowish-grey rocks cut by innumerable
+ravines not marked on the map, and much worse to cross than big
+valleys. The patches of vegetation were swampy, and it promised ill for
+the night, till suddenly, a couple of miles ahead, some forest-groves
+were seen--evidently the most easterly in this part of the country.
+They lay beside a tributary of Rio Tarde and we soon had a roof of
+foliage, dry leaves to sleep on, a grassy slope below for the horses,
+a bank of fossil oysters close to and snowy mountains all round. What
+more could we ask? Here was everything. Some rusty tins showed that the
+place had been used as a camp before; surely they had been left by the
+Argentine Boundary Commission, for one of them had contained preserved
+asparagus.
+
+We stayed here one day in order to give the horses a chance to recruit
+their strength for the march across the next mountain-pass. As our
+next goal we set ourselves nothing less than Lago Belgrano itself, and
+indeed actually got off before eight o’ clock. Now the reader will
+think us a band of real sluggards, but I must protest against such an
+idea, for as a rule we never rose later than six o’clock unless we had
+gone to rest quite exhausted the night before, and very often it was
+only five o’clock when we crept out of our bags. But all the work that
+had to be done before we could spring into our saddles took much time.
+We had carefully studied the map and chose another route than the one
+followed by the engineers of the commission, to some extent shortening
+the distance. It was wild and desolate up here at a height of 5600
+feet, gigantic basalt pillars lifted their hard black bodies on both
+sides, and large snowdrifts fed the boggy, sliding soil. The slopes,
+nearly without vegetation of any kind save some monstrous plants in
+the shape of compact balls, are coloured red, brown and grey, and Rio
+Belgrano rises like a red-brown mud-puddle. A chilly fog enveloped
+us and shut out the view; only the nearest mountain, the fine Cerro
+Belgrano (7500 feet) being visible, cutting the veil with its worn
+peaks. The pass fell abruptly on the other side making us hesitate
+for a moment. The river makes innumerable turns and bends, from all
+directions tributaries flow in; we saw no other way than to keep to
+the bottom, every five minutes crossing the river in order to take
+advantage of the narrow strips of muddy shore separating the barranca
+from the water. We made very slow progress, the horses were tired and
+often refused to cross the stream, but nevertheless we should have
+reached the lake if fate had not led us to arrange a great Christmas
+slaughter.
+
+[Illustration: THE BELGRANO PASS, WITH GIANT BASALT PILLARS.]
+
+[Illustration: WEST ARM OF LAKE BELGRANO.]
+
+We wrote December 22 in our journals and had hardly a piece of meat in
+the pantry. We had just crossed the river and were about to round a
+hill, separating us from the Belgrano basin, when we caught sight of
+four deer, two bucks with their hinds steadily regarding us and shaking
+their little stumps of tail as they uttered their peculiar cooing note.
+We tied the dogs up and approached them with great caution. One of
+the bucks was badly wounded by a bullet, but nevertheless rushed down
+the slope at full speed, the other got a broken shoulder and did not
+move. We went up to him but he stood quite still looking at us with his
+large, intelligent eyes, the blood slowly dripping down on the flowers
+of the heath. We wanted to give him his _coup de grâce_, but in spite
+of one bullet in the head and one in the chest, he suddenly showed a
+spark of life and rushed down to the water. We let the dogs loose but
+instead of making for the wounded bucks they brought one of the
+hinds to bay at the river and Pavo buried his teeth in her throat. As a
+rule we only killed bucks, but of course had to kill the hind in this
+case. Now we had to look for the bucks. Pagels and I went down to the
+river where one of the bucks, wild with rage, lay struggling with Pavo,
+who had bitten him; we let the river carry him down to a place where
+it was possible to land him. It was resolved to camp close by, and a
+horse carried down the meat of this buck. Pagels and Quensel went to
+take charge of the rest. The buck still lived and butted round him; he
+hit Pagels and knocked the knife (my bowie-knife) out of his hand into
+the river, where it disappeared for ever. At nightfall we had finished
+the bloody work; we had two hundred pounds of good meat, more than
+sufficient for our stay at Lake Belgrano.
+
+In the morning we rode down to the lake. The horses had very heavy
+loads, but the road was only nine and a half miles long and, with
+the exception of some swamps round the west arm of Rio Belgrano,
+easy enough. Just as we came down the last slope we discovered the
+tracks of shod horses. People here? Some expedition perhaps, looking
+for a camp? Now two parallel lines appear; there is no doubt that a
+cart-track leads down to the lake. And when the view opened out with
+the glasses we could make out a tent, horses and men. It was almost
+a disappointment--had civilization reached this last great tract of
+Patagonia? “And I, who hoped that we should celebrate Christmas by
+ourselves,” said Halle with a worried air.
+
+The peninsula had been shut off by a fence and we proceeded through a
+gate, the “strangers” gathering in front of their tent. We alighted
+and walked to greet them. Their appearance plainly told us, that
+they were not children of the country, but “gringos,” and we asked
+them if they spoke English or German. “Wir sind deutsche Kolonisten,
+und Sie?” They gave us a hearty welcome, and our thoughts coincided
+in a “now we’ll celebrate Christmas.” By-and-by they told us about
+themselves and their enterprise. A newly formed company, called
+Sociedad Germano-Argentina, had got a concession of about 1200 square
+miles of land from Lake Posadas to Rio Chico, on condition that it
+brought colonists from Germany who promised to devote themselves to
+cattle-raising and agriculture. Two of our new friends had a share each
+and were out looking for a suitable piece of land in order to buy it.
+The manager, C. Högberg, a Swede and late captain of a ship, was only
+some days’ journey from there and was expected after Christmas. The
+Germans had not made up their minds as to where they wanted to settle
+in earnest, but thought of stopping for the winter on the lake, to
+see what the unfavourable season was like. It is a doubtful question
+whether this part of the country is fit for either of the purposes
+mentioned above. The lake is situated not less than 2570 feet above
+sea-level. The stony peninsula, connected with the mainland to the east
+by a very narrow neck of land, produces the impression of being barren
+and weather-worn. I can see but one great advantage: it does not need
+to be fenced in. Probably the winter is comparatively severe and the
+summer short with early night-frosts. I do not think the colonists
+will stay long here. The communication with the outer world goes over
+San Julian, a distance of 220 miles as the crow flies. The land round
+Lake Belgrano is certainly not especially good, and what it is that has
+fixed the attention of the colonists just upon that part I am unable to
+understand.
+
+The Germans complained that they were short of meat, and we were
+glad to give them some of our ample supply. There were deer on the
+peninsula, but the Company wanted to spare them. In return for the meat
+they gave us white beans and lentils; we were very short of vegetables:
+the oatmeal was finished and our possibilities of making pancakes had
+become sadly limited. Of rice alone had we a sufficient supply.
+
+Lago Belgrano has been the starting-point for the mapping out of
+several lakes, the acquaintance of which we shall soon make. The
+landscape belongs to the most beautiful in Patagonia, and I defy
+anybody to show me mountain scenery more varied and grand than that
+west of the Azara-Nansen basin. A very promising field for work
+attracted us thither.
+
+Our first thought was to find a good camping-place, and as we intended
+to make a longer stay than usual, it had to be chosen with care. In the
+ñire forest on the east side of the peninsula we found one satisfying
+all our demands, cut some bushwood and fixed up our tent, above which
+the Swedish colours floated. One of our most important tasks was to
+make a boat journey and penetrate westward into the mountains. We knew
+that the boundary commission had left a canvas boat, and the Germans
+told us that there were two of them, a smaller and a larger, and
+indicated to us where we should look for them. Halle stopped at home,
+the rest of us went to find the boats. We had not gone far before we
+saw a blockhouse in a grove. In the Koslowsky valley we were told that
+the commission had spent a considerable time by the lake, and that
+various things were left there, among others preserved foods. The hut
+was shut up; but an opening in its hinder wall was only stopped with
+branches and one of them being loose it was the work of a second to get
+into it. I will specially emphasize that we were in the uninhabited
+mountains of Patagonia with failing provisions, so that the reader will
+be able to overlook what now happened. In one corner there was a barrel
+of wine, and four wooden boxes. Some instruments for making charts were
+fixed under the roof. That this had belonged to the last commission,
+which had put up the boundary marks, we did not doubt for one instant,
+and our hypothesis was strengthened when we opened the boxes and saw
+their contents: tinned provisions, also some luxuries, tobacco and any
+amount of cigarette papers, barometers and thermometers. One of the
+boxes contained nothing but Jamaica rum. We felt happy enough--this
+was indeed the hidden treasure of a fairy-tale. The Governments of
+both Chile and Argentina had promised us their help: I declared myself
+ready to take the responsibility for robbing the depot, and we picked
+out a selection of provisions, especially in view of the boat-trip,
+since we carried scarcely anything suitable for that purpose. Even the
+Christmas brandy, a bottle of rum, we let the Government present us. We
+made a list of the stolen goods to be sent to Buenos Aires, nailed up
+the boxes and effaced the traces of our visit. We found it unnecessary
+to tell the Germans about it. Possibly Captain Högberg, once a member
+of the commission, had the keys; but it was less probable that he had
+let the colonists into the secret.
+
+We soon found the boats; one had been fixed under cover some distance
+from the shore, but it was so large that we could not think of using
+it. The other lay without any protection on the beach, it was a
+non-collapsible eight-foot, rather the worse for sun, wind and weather.
+Probably it had not been used for years. We tried it and found it
+leaked terribly. It was not easy for us to repair it, for we had no
+materials, but some grease in the joints and on the canvas made it
+serviceable enough, though the man in the stern was kept busy all the
+time baling out the water. Heavily laden with the “Christmas gifts” we
+returned to the tent. Halle was at home writing: we opened the door a
+little and threw in a tin: “Do you want some butter for Christmas?...
+or perhaps milk?... a piece of cheese doesn’t taste bad ... here, too,
+you have an ox-tongue.” And at last, shaking the bottle: “I think we’ll
+have some grog to celebrate the day.” I have seldom seen a person look
+so absolutely at a loss; he wouldn’t believe it, and it took him a
+long while to grasp the situation. It almost looked like a conjuring
+trick. The poor “extra” tins we had bought in Aysen quite faded into
+insignificance in comparison with all these new dainties; now we were
+prepared for the double festival on the Southern Hemisphere--Christmas
+and Midsummer’s Day at the same time.
+
+The menu of the dinner on Christmas Eve was as follows:
+
+                             Hors d’œuvre.
+                 Coeur de cerf sauté avec des légumes.
+                      Figues au riz avec du lait.
+                                 Thé.
+                             Grog au rhum.
+
+We were dangerously near gourmandising. I would not say that the
+discovery we made the next morning, viz., that the things we had taken
+could not belong to any boundary commission, but to the employees and
+engineers of the German colonizing company, helped to the digestion
+of the strange dishes. The date on one of the tins had revealed the
+truth--we had just committed burglary. However, it was done and could
+not be undone. I wrote a letter to Captain Högberg explaining matters
+and offering to pay for what we had stolen; in Punta Arenas I got an
+answer in which he declared himself happy to have been of assistance
+to some of his countrymen, and thus everything was all right. We still
+feel indebted to him.
+
+Breakfast on Christmas Day wasn’t bad. What do you say to pancakes
+with gooseberry jam; the latter honestly acquired too, in Aysen, and
+coffee with bread. We had had a baking for Christmas. In the evening we
+accepted an invitation to visit the Germans. They were nearly as poorly
+off as ourselves, but had one thing that we could not even dream of--a
+barrel of wine, and round it we sat having a merry time. At night they
+came to have dinner with us. It was a proper Christmas, and during the
+night it even snowed in spite of its being midsummer. Probably this
+was a special attention paid to the Swedish visitors, who knew how to
+appreciate it. Then we had enough of feasting. All Christmas Day we
+had done no work. On Boxing Day we wanted to start our boat-trip, but
+it blew too hard in the morning and we had to wait till the afternoon
+before we could venture to set out. Carefully we packed the sleeping
+bags and provisions for some days and more carefully still we placed
+ourselves in the canvas boat, Quensel, Pagels and I. There was not much
+of the gunwale above water.
+
+Opposite us, on the south shore, the mountain-scenery was splendid,
+reflected by the clear blue-green water; down below green slopes
+with brown patches of heath and yellow straps of sand, then a steep
+mountain wall with multi-coloured _débris_ and yellow, red and violet
+tufa-layers; on the top of them a black jagged crest of slate, split
+up into crags, sharp as needles, where white snow still lingered here
+and there. We kept close inland, and reached the narrow West Arm; the
+current in the entrance is very strong. The evening was squally, and we
+soon had to land for the night. The morning arrived with a fresh breeze
+and the sea ran so high that we could not sit three in the boat, but
+Pagels pulled along the shore, Quensel and I walking on foot. It was
+not long before the wind increased and both we and the boat landed in a
+small bay. The great difficulty in navigation on Andine lakes is the
+persistent westerly wind blowing without cessation.
+
+We had camped early in the day. From a hill we could see the depression
+of the lakes Azara-Nansen. They are completely shut in by snowy ridges,
+and the brooks keep their waters at a nearly constant temperature of
+some few centigrades above zero. The hour of liberty did not strike
+that day, and our spirits fell indeed when we rose with the same
+wretched weather. At noon the wind abated, and in the evening we went
+forward. Quensel and I walked as long as we could when Pagels took us
+on board and we landed happily at the short river, where a waterfall
+empties Lago Belgrano into Lago Azara. Here we had to carry the boat
+and things over the hills; the cascade has a fall of twenty-six feet in
+a distance of only 700 feet. We continued at once to the next beautiful
+lake, now smooth as a mirror. Wanting to get as far west as possible
+we turned off into the long narrow western branch, the mouth of which
+is very shallow and almost barred by thousands of big logs from the
+forests round the lake. Already in the west part of Lago Belgrano, the
+forest-patches closed to a thick covering, and all the slopes were
+quite hidden under a dense forest. We had to pass the entrance on foot,
+and Pagels was hardly able to get through with an empty boat into the
+calm water, which the reflections from the high mountains painted
+black-green. We did not mind the dark, but wanted to get on as long as
+it was calm, but hardly had we agreed to do so when the first puff of
+wind came rushing along, followed by others stronger and more and more
+frequent. In haste we had to seek the first landing-place we could
+find where it was possible to haul up the boat. In order to find a
+place to sleep in we groped along in the darkness and climbed up into
+a narrow crevice; sixty feet above the water we found a nice little
+shelf just big enough for the sleeping-bags. If one regards this place
+from below it is impossible to see that there is a camping-place in the
+middle of the very mountain-wall.
+
+[Illustration: GERMAN COLONISTS, LAKE BELGRANO.]
+
+[Illustration: BREAKFAST TABLE ON CHRISTMAS DAY. LAKE BELGRANO.]
+
+Now and then we woke up from sheer curiosity. Really, we thought, it
+is getting calm again. At 4 A.M. we got out, rolled up our bags and
+hastened off, in the lovely weather, every peak standing out distinct
+and towering against a cloudless sky. Not only the vegetation had
+undergone some changes. Quensel looked at the rocks now and then; we
+landed and he knocked off a piece; the backbone of the cordillera,
+the granites, appeared once more. After some hours pulling we reached
+the innermost corner, where we breakfasted on the sunny beach to
+the music of a small waterfall. We followed the stream up to its
+origin, a charming little lake without a name on the map, but by us
+called Laguna Joya (the gem). In order to profit by the day we made
+an ascent. The ground here is very uneven, up and down over mossy
+rocks and forest-covered ravines, but we made good speed and finally
+freeing ourselves from the last embrace of the twigs had the forest
+below us. Over rattling stones we climbed Cerro Aspero till we reached
+the foot of a large glacier covering the summit; only the sharpest
+peaks, from which the ice glides in frozen cascades, peeped forth. We
+have not seen many bits of scenery equal to the one seen from here.
+The camera clicked, but certainly gave no idea of the colours. South
+and west of us we had the high peaks close by, shutting out the view
+in these directions; but to the north like sparkling gems on a dark
+green cloth lie the lakes, a small sapphire-coloured corner of Lake
+Azara, the lakes Mogole and Peninsula showing the tints of amethyst
+and emerald. Beyond, summit after summit rises, in all directions with
+large glaciers giving birth to milk-white rivers winding through yellow
+moraines. Farthest north, majestic and commanding, Cerro San Lorenzo
+reigns over all, with its 11,000 feet, one of Patagonia’s highest
+mountains and so steep that one really wonders how the glaciers are
+able to cling to its sides. To the west the inland ice gently wraps its
+sheet over Cerro Blanco, shining like silver and gold in the strong
+noon-tide light. It is a long distance to San Lorenzo, but nevertheless
+we can see that its geology is different from the surrounding lower
+mountains. Probably all the highest summits, such as San Clemente
+and San Valentin are of the same laccolitic nature. At the foot of
+Cerro Blanco we catch sight of a small lake, not marked on the map
+and probably never before seen by anybody. We almost ran down, for we
+must make use of the fine weather. In haste we gobbled some food on
+the shore and said good-bye to Lago Azara. It was midnight when we
+reached Lago Belgrano. In the whirlpools below the cascade we were
+near to coming to grief, but Pagels’ seamanship saved the situation.
+In the morning we carried the boat across and were back in our own
+lake again. This time we took the way north of the peninsula, where
+the lake is rather narrow. To our surprise we found it so shallow that
+we could hardly pass, owing to Rio Lacteo carrying down masses of mud
+from the glaciers on San Lorenzo. Further east we got into deep water
+again and in the afternoon of December 30 were back in our camp. In
+the evening we had a notable visit from two Tehuelche Indians, for the
+time staying with the Germans. Silently they sat down before the fire,
+but when they had drunk a cup of cocoa, a beverage rather unknown to
+them, they loosened their tongues. They were brothers and indeed such
+a pair of fine fellows to look at that we could hardly conceive that
+they really belonged to the last remnants of a dying race. To see
+them mount a bucking, unsaddled horse, on which they sat like wax,
+was pure delight. We spoke to them about the route we had taken from
+Lago Pueyrredon there, but they did not at all approve of it. Why
+should people endure such hardships when they could gallop round those
+troublesome mountains? Our dinner was now ready, and we invited them to
+partake of it; they protested saying that they had just had theirs; but
+nevertheless two plates of beans and deer-steak went down. Bidding us
+farewell, the elder said: “We shall give you some veal, and it is very
+fat.” We thanked them and gratefully accepted the offer.
+
+New Year’s Day had been fixed for the start. Halle had made long
+excursions to survey this region and had obtained very good results. On
+New Year’s Eve we stayed at home and worked hard to get ready; we had
+to make bread, write down our observations, pack the collections and,
+last but not least, mend our clothes, which by now were almost fit for
+a museum. Halle had struggled with his trousers a long time--finally
+they exhibited a mosaic so cunning that it might have done for a
+tailor’s trial piece. At sunset all was in order. The Germans had been
+kind enough to remind us that there was still some wine left, and soon
+we sat down in the old blockhouse, Swedes, Germans and Indians. It was
+cold, but we had a merry fire, and everybody was armed with a mighty
+tin mug of hot wine; we spoke of our homes and old songs were sung.
+When our watches showed midnight our revolvers rang out, the roof was
+lifted by our loud New-Year-Greetings, the dogs took up the cry and
+with a little ring-dance we welcomed 1909. The Tehuelche boys laughed
+till their beautiful white teeth shone.
+
+New Year’s Day, 1909. We struck camp, the flag was lowered. Wild
+after the days of liberty the horses strained against the ropes of
+our corral. We halted at the camp of the Germans to bid farewell to
+the good fellows, and then we gave the horses a free rein, left the
+peninsula and rode up in a valley between the hills. Here we stopped
+one moment and turned round to give a last glance at this charming
+picture, to which many of our merriest Patagonian remembrances are
+attached. The surface of the lake disappears, the last peaks sink
+behind the hills, we are on the high pampas, where the flora shows
+all the beauty of midsummer. For a moment we gather round map and
+compass, get a direction, and at good speed the caravan trots over the
+steppe-plains.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+LAKE SAN MARTÍN
+
+
+There are two different routes to follow from Lake Belgrano to the
+South: one westerly, more inviting from some points of view leading
+as it does through inaccessible parts of the cordillera, here called
+Sierra de las Vacas, and one easterly along the rivers Belgrano and
+Lista. But the high passes would probably be so deep in snow that we
+perhaps should not get over; in any case they would require much time,
+and time was valuable, as we did not know how long we should have to
+stay at Lake San Martín. Further, the easterly way would probably give
+better results for geology and botany, and this circumstance determined
+us.
+
+Over blooming pampas, where steep hills rising fifty to a hundred
+metres above the level ground, and numerous lagoons make the scenery
+rather pleasant, we rode down the cañadon of Rio Robles which we
+followed down to Rio Belgrano, our old acquaintance of the time of our
+march down to the lake. We crossed Rio Belgrano and then, with some
+difficulty, because of the depth and the strong current, the two joint
+rivers. Here my horse, Johansson, nearly succeeded in playing me a
+bad trick. As I did not want to get wetter than was necessary I drew
+my legs on his back, and probably touched him with one of the spurs;
+anyhow, he got wild and tried to throw me off in the middle of the
+stream. Certainly it would not have been very pleasant had he been able
+to carry out his intention, as it was I only lost my rebenque (whip)
+and got soaked to my waist, but the fresh pampas-wind soon dried my
+clothes. We had just crossed this river and were trotting along again,
+when, to our surprise, we discovered a caravan further down--but alas!
+on the other side. We supposed that it was Captain Högberg, and were
+very sorry indeed that we could not stop, but we had a long march
+before nightfall and thought it would be too troublesome to cross
+the river twice. Had we only been able to see the troop before we
+crossed the temptation would have been too strong--one does not meet
+compatriots every day in the uninhabited parts of Patagonia.
+
+We had to search well before we found a camping-place that satisfied
+our needs. Everywhere there was plenty of grass and water, but no
+fuel. When we unsaddled our horses we discovered that Jeremias, whose
+back had been bad for a long time, now looked terrible. We had thought
+that after the rest at Lake Belgrano he would be able to carry his
+load again, but his old swollen wounds had broken open and were full
+of matter. His job from this day was to act as watch-horse in the
+night--and during the marches to lead the troop astray and thus cause
+our riding horses a lot of extra work.
+
+The next day we continued along the valley of Rio Belgrano, until we
+found a good pass where we could cross the ridge and descend into the
+valley of the rather large river, Lista, which drains the Sierra de las
+Vacas by means of numerous tributaries. At the point where we struck
+the river it is divided into many branches, which constantly shift
+their course over a bed of shingle. The last one was so deep that the
+loads only just came clear of the water. The Lista Valley looks very
+fertile. Unfortunately this region as well as that through which we
+rode on the following day lies so high above sea level that the winter
+is generally too severe for both sheep and cattle. An old abandoned
+_rancho_ close to the Rio Ñires, where we camped on January 2 showed
+that colonisation had been a failure. But why not make use of all this
+fat grass above the sea as we do in Switzerland or in Scandinavia? The
+system of mountain dairies, used only in the summer, will probably
+reach Patagonia also in time.
+
+The rivers Belgrano and Lista belong to the Atlantic system; they run
+to Rio Chico, a river anything but small as the name denotes, which
+empties in the same estuary as Rio Santa Cruz. A few miles south of
+Rio Lista we passed the ridge which forms the water-parting, and set
+our course for the valley of Rio Ñires. The name of this river did not
+sound very promising, and I have never seen brushwood which was denser.
+For long stretches the stream was not visible, and one had to search
+for a place where one could get down and fill the pot with water.
+
+The next river had a still more discouraging name: Arroyo Tucotuco.
+And on the map the valley was marked as one extensive swamp. We walked
+carefully along, crossed the sources where they emerge out of narrow
+canyons and followed the valley south of the stream. It was indeed a
+charming place; we had a small strip to keep on: a few steps to the
+right and the horses sank down into a bottomless swamp, a few to the
+left, and the ground was completely undermined by the tuco-tuco. Having
+passed a small tributary, called Arroyo Potrancas on the Chilean map,
+we soon met with dense forests. Only round the swampy brooks was there
+a space of clear ground, but we soon got tired of groping our way and
+turned at right angles into the forest. Abraham made the most energetic
+attempts to carry away the trees--a horse never learns that his pack
+makes him broader--and we had to be very watchful to release him, stuck
+fast as he stood between two stems, with a most frightened expression
+on his stupid face.
+
+Suddenly the ground fell off at a very sharp angle; we stood at the
+top of a forest-clad barranca, 300 feet high, that sloped abruptly
+down into the valley. I was to lead one of the pack-horses, our old
+friend Ruckel: he started to tremble as soon as he saw the steep place,
+and nearly crushed me against a tree. We found that we had reached
+our goal, the place where Rio Carbón joins Rio Mayer. We camped in a
+high and lofty roble forest. Mr. Hatcher made his principal geological
+studies in the Meseta east of Rio Carbón, and so the geologists were
+very anxious to visit the place. However, our halt did not result in
+much; it proved exceedingly difficult to identify Hatcher’s localities;
+certainly we had no presentiment of the discoveries, still greater than
+those made here before, which were in store for us.
+
+When our caravan started again on January 5 we did not expect to cross
+the pass over to the depression of Lake San Martín in one day. The maps
+spoke of difficulties, and the distance was great. The first part was
+not very difficult and at 12 A.M. we passed the last forest-patch and
+made up our mind to push through. The river, which carried plenty of
+water, had dug its course between vertical walls. To pass above the
+barranca was impossible, for on one side it rose sheer for many hundred
+feet; on the other was the basaltic meseta with a ground covered with
+millions of blocks, impassable for horses or even mules. Thus we were
+bound to keep in the bottom of the ravine, working our way with the
+speed of a snail and climbing incessantly from one side of the river to
+the other. Often cross ravines or protruding joints stopped us, and we
+had to exert all our powers to drive the horses through such places,
+where they one moment would climb the barranca and the next rush down
+into the water. In spite of all we could not help laughing at the mare,
+who tried to climb a vertical wall, but came down faster than she
+expected. We came to ground covered with large, sharp-edged blocks: the
+troop dispersed, the pack-horses stumbled and fell. Without hesitation
+we let our horses loose, climbed up to fetch the others and managed to
+drive them down to more even ground. Luckily enough none of them were
+hurt.
+
+The higher we rose the narrower grew the valley, and the snow increased
+exceedingly towards the pass, and we came upon large drifts and bridges
+which bore or broke just as it pleased them. When we reached the pass,
+we had crossed the river twenty-seven times. The whole pass was
+covered with snow--only on the steepest walls the withered rock lay
+bare and yellow, without a trace of vegetation. The river wound between
+vertical walls of ice and snow a few yards high. We rode in the bed
+between them, until they met in an unbroken white cover, under which
+the river disappeared. Across the snowfields we slowly approached the
+south side of the pass. We were prepared for nice surprises in the
+shape of floating soil, and I very much doubt if we shall ever forget
+that afternoon in the Cañadon of Rio Fósiles. It is difficult to think
+of a more terrifying scene. Everywhere high, steep walls with dirty
+melting snow-patches, streams of clay, red-brown or blackish, and deep
+down under our feet the river like a boiling mass of red mud. Not a
+blade of grass--life seemed extinguished; only a single condor soars
+comfortably among the peaks watching the little black points, which
+struggle along, expecting every moment that a horse will get tired,
+stumble and fall down into the abyss.
+
+There were places where we stopped without knowing at first what to
+do; sheer rock walls where we could see how the horses strained every
+muscle not to lose their foothold, or loose floating soil, where they
+sank down and fell. It often happened that danger was unsuspected;
+the surface is dry, hard and full of crevices; one drives the troop
+along and then, suddenly, all the horses are down in the mud. If we
+had not helped Jakob in time he would have stopped where he was; the
+clay dragged him down, he struggled for his life, but rolled round and
+started to slide down with the thick reddish mud which slowly floated
+away. We saved the Winchester which was tied to his saddle, took him
+by the legs and turned him round while one pulled the cabresta and the
+other whipped him, and finally we got him on firm ground again. Halle’s
+look when he met his horse again was worth money. But he had not time
+to worry. A discovery of an unknown rich fossil flora had been made
+by him when he was away from the caravan, and this cast a gleam of
+brightness over the unpleasant valley.
+
+The hours passed and the horses became more and more difficult to
+manage. To ride was impossible, and many times we met with passages
+which the animals could hardly clear even with an empty saddle. We
+followed the east side of the river, and by-and-by climbed out of the
+Cañadon on to the plateau, where the patches of vegetation soon closed
+together. The first, violet forest-patches were seen in the gloaming
+but we could not reach them. Night fell and quite exhausted we threw
+ourselves down by the first bushes, some “mata blanca” (_Chiliotrichum
+diffusum_). We had been under way twelve hours without rest and over
+the worst ground to be found in Patagonia. We were 3000 feet above sea
+level and had covered a distance of twenty miles since the morning.
+
+When we came the following morning to fetch the horses, almost all of
+them had lain down, which had hardly ever happened before. We saddled
+to ride to the first forest-patch, two hours’ march only, and there the
+horses got a rest and we made our usual excursions. We had discussed
+the possibility of stopping here some days, but Halle thought the find
+so rich that he preferred to return to the place during our boat-trip.
+Another reason for continuing the march was that we were short of
+provisions; the last thirty-one figs were boiled with the last handful
+of rice, and from the last remains of the bag of flour two small
+loaves were made. Consequently we made a fresh start the following
+day, January 7, in order to reach an estancia near Lake San Martín
+which we had sighted from the pass. The descent was not difficult, but
+the ground was such that it gave the horses much unnecessary work, a
+confusion of hills and canyons impossible to prospect. We had just
+come down a very steep barranca, when on a little green patch below we
+caught sight of a man on horseback driving a small troop. “How far is
+Frank’s farm from here?” “Only a couple of hours,” was the answer, we
+should soon strike a track. At once we divided the last loaf--it must
+not happen that we reached our goal with provisions to spare. We soon
+found the track, which followed a peculiar winding canyon where the
+air was still and the heat oppressive. Suddenly the view of the steppe
+opened, there lay the well-known houses of corrugated iron, shining in
+the bright sun. Our friend Mr. Frank met us, and the curtain fell on
+the second act.
+
+We had met Mr. Frank on several occasions and he had showed himself
+much interested in our plans and wanted us to visit his farm in order
+to make an excursion on the lake together. He is a German and lives
+in Santiago during the winter. To reach his farm he has to take the
+steamer through the Straits and up to San Julián; from there he
+rides or drives up to the Cordillera. Some years ago he had a special
+motor-car constructed to go between the farm and the coast, having
+high wheels to pass the rivers. The result, however, was not very
+brilliant--it took twice as much time with the motor-car as with the
+bull-carts. But as the first experiment it is worth a page in the
+history of Patagonian colonization.
+
+Shearing was just finished, but an important piece of work had
+still to be done before Mr. Frank and his people could be ready to
+join us in the excursion. The sheep had to be dipped in order to
+prevent the spread of “the scab,” a disease that of course has a very
+disadvantageous effect on the quantity and value of the wool. They swim
+through a channel filled with some disinfecting fluid, and a man stands
+ready to give them a proper dip. Up they come again, snorting and
+bleating soaked with the brown water.
+
+We devoted our own energies to the boat. There was left over from the
+time of the boundary commission a ruined cutter, built by Captain
+Högberg; all loose things had been stolen and the remains were of no
+use. But there were also two canvas-boats, which lay on the ground
+close to Bahia de la Lancha, a cove not far from the farm itself. One
+of them was very large, not collapsible and half-rotten, and we could
+not think of using it. The other was of the same type that we had used
+before in Tierra del Fuego, a first-class Berthon, but much longer than
+ours, easily carrying eight persons. It had been transported there some
+years earlier, but left on the beach and never launched. Wind and
+weather had treated it badly; part of the wood was broken to pieces and
+the canvas had numerous holes so that it was a job to repair it. But we
+all helped and Pagels was very handy, as usual. On the 10th our work
+was finished and lay shining in the sun with fresh paint and patches.
+We were sorry not to be able to start at once. Certainly we had much to
+do in the neighbourhood, and we saw day after day go by without getting
+off. At last, on the 14th, they finished the dipping and then came the
+preparation of provisions. For meat we only carried the carcasses of
+two sheep; they would not last long, but we were sure to find something
+to shoot. On the 15th we went down to the beach, Quensel, Frank,
+myself, Pagels and two men from the farm. It blew hard, but we wanted
+to be quite ready when the calm came.
+
+Lake San Martín, which is 660 feet above sea level, has the most
+peculiar shape of all the Cordilleran lakes. Its surface is 376 square
+miles and is split up into several long and narrow arms, veritable
+fresh-water fiords, penetrating far into the mountains. The most
+westerly of the two north arms, here called only North Arm, is the
+longest; the eastern we call the Mayer Arm. The North Arm turns to the
+north-west near its end, and here we find the outlet of the Lake, the
+big river Pascua, which empties into one of the branches of Baker Inlet
+in the Pacific. From this latitude and down to Ultima Esperanza there
+is no interruption in the inland ice; all the lakes south of San Martín
+empty into the Atlantic, except the Payne lakes, which send their water
+to Ultima Esperanza through Rio Serrano. The West and South Arms
+penetrate furthest into the Cordillera, and in the latter the glaciers
+come down to the water. The prevailing westerly gales drive the
+icebergs out of the South Arm; most of them run ashore without getting
+very far, but some are seen from the settlements. The temperature
+of the water even in summer does not exceed six or seven degrees
+centigrade. Rio Pascua not only carries the water of San Martín but
+also of much more distant lakes. As the reader will remember we made
+the acquaintance of Rio Mayer on the other side of the Fósiles pass,
+where it comes from the canyon; after having received the rivulets
+Ñires and Tuco-tuco this river makes a sharp turn to the south and
+receives through Rio Nansen or Carrera the water from the lakes Nansen,
+Azara and Belgrano, disappears for a second time in the mountains and
+emerges in the arm of Lake San Martín.
+
+Through the descriptions of the Boundary Commissions we know how
+very difficult, not to say dangerous, it is to navigate on Lake San
+Martín. The wind, which often rises to a gale, can make progress to
+the westward impossible for weeks. We trusted to our luck--there was
+nothing else to do till we were able to make a start. It calmed on the
+16th; we rose hurriedly, hauled our boat down, launched it, stowed the
+cargo in and got under way with our little Swedish flag in the bows.
+Frank steered and the rest of us pulled the four oars--thus we had not
+much chance of being lazy. Rio Fósiles has built a sandbank across the
+East Arm, where we now were, and when the water is low it quite shuts
+off the arm; we found a narrow passage and came through. We landed
+for a while on the rocky shores of Chacabuco Peninsula to cook some
+food and thence continued to the northern shore of the lake. We met a
+heavy sea that broke all along the Fósiles delta, and after several
+hours hard pull we landed for the night. A glance out of the sleeping
+bag showed that we could not think of starting the following morning.
+Over the lake blew a fresh westerly gale and only at 4 P.M. did we
+resolve to try again. There was plenty of sea and we shipped some water
+and soon water also came from above in the form of heavy rain, which
+in a few moments soaked us to the skin. But it abated the violence of
+the waves and we had to economize time so we went on till it was quite
+dark. We were then close to the Cancha Rayada Peninsula, where a bay
+with a little natural harbour appeared.
+
+Storm again! We had a very nice camping-place with a shelter of some
+rocks and surrounded by a dense brushwood of _Escallonias_, just in
+full blossom with flowers from snow-white to a deep crimson. And we had
+plenty to do. I myself climbed about on the rocks collecting; Quensel
+studied the geology; and Frank shot ducks in the salt-lagoons. The
+ground reminds one of the kind I have described above from the north
+shore of Lake Pueyrredon.
+
+We tried again on the 18th. As long as we had shelter under land it was
+all right, but when we had to round a promontory the old game began
+as before. From the north-west came a heavy swell from the lake, and
+from the north-east as well, out of a large bay, the seas met together
+over our poor little boat. The weather became squally, there was a
+“smoke” of water on the port, on starboard and ahead, the regular swell
+changed into a confusion of white furious sea, impossible to reckon
+with, that seemed to come from every point of the compass; our fragile
+craft--canvas and a wooden frame--was banged about, sometimes with such
+violence that the oars jumped out of the rowlocks in spite of all our
+efforts to keep them in. But the boat stood the trial in an amazing
+manner. Of course it shipped some water--enough to soak us--but on the
+whole it proved more seaworthy than we had expected. However, we had to
+look for a harbour and found an inviting corner in the above-mentioned
+bay which we named Bahia Cuchillo, in remembrance of my last knife that
+I left there.
+
+We kept a sharp look-out, and when the weather got better we started
+again. The question now was how to cross the entrance of the Mayer Arm.
+We made for the eastern headland, which dissolved into two small isles
+when we came closer. The passage was critical enough, the waves came
+from two directions and were as high as our boat could stand them. It
+was a hard job and we felt very happy when we had reached the west head
+safely, where we slept like logs.
+
+Now we had left the pampas behind and the forest formed one continuous
+cover on the shores. Had the water only been salt we could have
+believed ourselves in the channels of West Patagonia.
+
+We went out again in the old swell, and made a good start. But suddenly
+a suspicious gust of wind came and then the gale began again. And
+it came on properly this time; so that we passed some moments of
+considerable anxiety. The gusts seemed to rush down perpendicular to
+the water and whirled it up to a height of thirty feet, the spray
+stood like a fog over the whole bay, and the atmosphere glittered with
+hundreds of minute rainbows. It was beautiful--but what if we had come
+into one of the tornadoes that danced along to our right and left? By
+exerting every effort we managed to reach the innermost corner of the
+bay and awaited the development of events. A torrential rain supplied
+what still was wanted to make the weather quite ideal!
+
+Ahead of us we had a peninsula, ending in a well-marked point, and when
+the gale had abated a little, we pulled to it and even tried to get
+round but were driven back and were glad to discover a small crevice
+just big enough to hold the boat. We waited again; from the point we
+could overlook the lake, but what we saw was not promising. Now and
+then we climbed up to see if things were improving and finally resolved
+to risk another struggle. I do not think we shall ever forget it. The
+waves were big enough for a lifeboat, and our little nutshell quite
+disappeared, but rose up again, climbed the watery ridge and won. But
+we could not spare ourselves; we had to expend the very last ounce of
+our strength and energy and still we could hardly note that we really
+were advancing.
+
+The view of the lake had been rather limited until now. A cry of
+admiration was heard, when the west part appeared behind a cape,
+exposing the gigantic glacier in all its extent near the mouth of the
+Southern Arm. It was as if this sight spurred us to new efforts, and
+over crests of white foam which generally shared their abundance with
+us, we pulled towards the eastern head of the Northern Arm, where we
+rested upon our oars an instant, ready to try a somewhat dangerous
+experiment--to cross the arm. We had hardly left the shelter of the
+point behind when some furious squalls attacked us with such ferocity
+that we were driven back. We had been working for thirteen hours and
+badly needed some rest.
+
+Thus we stood at the entrance of the fiord, thirty-eight miles long,
+whose end was our goal. To judge from the appearance of the coast-line,
+the west-shore afforded some advantages and our first enterprise was to
+cross the arm. Once again we met heavy seas from two directions, and it
+cost us three hours very hard pulling to cover two and a half miles! We
+searched a while till we found a place where we could tie the boat up
+out of reach of the breakers. No smooth beach could we discover. Do not
+believe, gentle reader, that the whole thing is very simple--that you
+just land if something happens which makes it desirable or necessary.
+It is not at all so easy. For long stretches the mountain sheers down
+at a very sharp angle or even vertically from a height of several
+hundred feet. And it is far from being the case that all sheltered
+places are good. A canvas boat is as fragile as an egg, especially when
+one is on a lake in the Cordilleras, without being able to get back
+over land as we were now. A hole in the canvas, and farewell! With the
+greatest care we chose the place to haul up the boat; the best being
+on a beach of sand or fine shingle. Pagels, who was an old sailor,
+regarded himself as an expert and responsible for all our lives, and
+never forgot to shout “gerade auf dem Kiel” when we hauled up the boat,
+and if we were not quick enough he abused us. If I got angry and told
+him a bit of my mind he always said: “Sie wissen doch, Herr Doktor,
+dass ich immer aufs Beste der Expedition arbeite.” And nobody doubted
+that his intentions were the best in the world.
+
+At last we had entered the Northern Arm. But our bad luck did not
+leave us. The first day we made little more than a mile when we were
+once more stopped by wind and sea, and with the experience we now had
+of the boat it really required something to stop us. We lost a day
+and a half waiting. True we knew that we were in Chile again. The
+forest also had undergone some changes. Our old evergreens once more
+played an important part; vast bushes of fuchsia and even the typical
+rain-forest plant, _copihue_ (_Philesia buxifolia_), with its large
+pink flowers had reappeared. At last we could make another move, but
+our joy was short-lived and we had to camp again. It was a fine place,
+that reminded us very much of the old camp near Rio Azopardo’s mouth.
+The weather was bright, though windy, and the fiord covered with white
+crests. It had cost us eight days to reach this point, and we could not
+know how many more we should require to reach the end of the fiord.
+Probably we should not gain much more in our scientific work than we
+had done already. Our appetite, I am sorry to say, had increased
+in proportion to our hardships, and there was little left of our
+provisions. We made a trip into the forest to get meat, and shot a deer
+and some ducklings.
+
+However, it was with sore hearts we decided to turn round without
+having reached our goal. It made us grumble, but there was no help
+for it. In order to get our clothes dried, which we needed very
+much, and to make a sail out of two old pieces of canvas, we stopped
+the night where we were and went back on the 27th. We wanted some
+recompense for the disappointment and probable loss we had sustained
+and consequently sailed along into the Southern Arm to have a look at
+the great glacier, which we named Ventisquero Schönmeyr. The northern
+end of the ice-barrier, which is about two miles and a half long was
+barred by icebergs, amongst which we pulled into a piece of open water.
+Here a little episode, which proves that we had good luck sometimes,
+took place. We wanted to get a snapshot of the boat in the ice, and to
+that end I jumped ashore on a rock; the picture had a fine background
+of icebergs from fifty to sixty feet high above the water. Hardly had
+we got away from the unpleasant company, when the largest by which we
+had lain the moment before lost its balance and capsized with a great
+noise. Had we still been there the expedition would have come to a
+quick and dramatic end. Further away we landed on the ice-barrier,
+where it rested against a small mountain, either a peninsula or a small
+island, half covered by ice. Quensel could study the blocks in the
+moraine and thus get an idea of the principal rocks in the centre of
+the Cordillera; the moraines carried no material from the surrounding
+mountains. We camped for the night on a promontory a few hundred yards
+from the glacier. The wind had died down, it was perfectly calm, and
+the stars twinkled in a clear sky. Sometimes there came a thundering
+noise from the great glacier. We went to sleep in unusually high
+spirits--no more pulling! Now the west wind could blow as much as it
+liked, but we could be lazy and do nothing but sail.
+
+Try to imagine our surprise when we woke up to find it absolutely calm.
+Well, we could pull for a little while, surely the wind would come.
+And it came--easterly. For the first time we had an easterly wind,
+always rare here. Our discontent over such topsy-turvy meteorological
+conditions was as loud as it was natural. The head wind did not last
+long, but it was followed by a dead calm. For two days it did not blow
+the slightest puff till the very last moment we pulled--nine hours the
+first, five the second and last day, and with unmingled satisfaction we
+heard the keel grate on the bottom in the Boat Harbour. It was January
+28 and we had gone eighty-one miles on the lake.
+
+We needed a day to get fresh provisions, but were then ready to start
+again. The horses had enjoyed three weeks’ complete rest, as Halle had
+got horses from the farm for his excursions. He was ready with his
+study of the geology of this region: the results belong to the most
+important obtained during the expedition. When we rode away “Jeremias”
+was left behind in the corral, neighing loudly. We abandoned him
+because his back was so bad that it would take him a couple of weeks
+to get well again; when he was loose he only disturbed the discipline
+of our troop. But his despair at being separated from his comrades was
+probably very real.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI
+
+ACROSS THE SIERRA DE LOS BAGUALES
+
+
+It was already late in the day on January 28 when we said good-bye to
+Frank’s _estancia_. The peculiar basaltic peak Cerro Kachaik rising
+abruptly 2000 feet above the surrounding pampas and visible for a
+very considerable distance, was kept on our left and we headed for
+Laguna Tar, a lake bordered by extensive swamps. A small stream unites
+it with Lago San Martín, which in pre-glacial times had its outlet
+through the Tar depression towards the Atlantic coast. By dint of
+spur and whip the marshy places were passed, and, keeping higher up
+the slope south of Laguna Tar we avoided the swamps. We made a halt
+at Mr. Reeves’ new farm and stopped for the night. The small company
+were in very comfortable frame of mind in spite of the earthen floor
+and the chairs in the shape of old wooden boxes, once containing
+articles so inseparably associated with camp-life as Danish butter and
+condensed milk. And after the master of the house had found a motley
+company of old tin and china mugs, the grog had been mixed, and the
+gramophone--never wanting--starting on its waltz tunes, we could not
+help telling each other how well off we found ourselves. Suddenly the
+trotting of horses sounded through the night, and two horsemen came
+galloping up, welcomed by the barking of the dogs, unsaddled, came
+in, and got a wooden box each to sit on. I tell this only to show
+how small the world is. We sat looking askance at each other, one of
+the last arrived men and I, wondering, “Where have I seen that face
+before?” By-and-by the truth flashed upon us. He had been on board the
+cutter _Chance_, in which I had made a journey in the Falklands from
+Port Stanley to Port Louis, July 1902. That now, after six and a half
+years and in spite of my full beard, he was able to recognize me when
+we suddenly met in the heart of Patagonia I could never understand. One
+can never feel safe!
+
+There was one drawback connected with our visits to people: we never
+got away in proper time the next morning. They must always make a
+spread for us of all they could produce, and never understood that
+we were in a hurry. What did an hour or two matter? The distance was
+so great. Thus it was here also; they did not let us off without a
+substantial breakfast.
+
+Following a depression, we rose a thousand feet and then descended into
+the valley of Rio Shehuen. There was a basalt _meseta_ in front of us,
+called M. del Viento, and we held a short council of war in order to
+decide upon the best way. According to the map, there ought to be a
+choice of two possible routes, and we chose the one which looked best,
+climbed about 1300 feet, descended into a shallow basin containing a
+couple of small lagoons without outlet, and finally rode up to the
+pass, a well-marked gap between black basalt peaks. It is only 3000
+feet high. I saw how my comrades, who were a few steps ahead, started
+to cheer and wave their caps when they had reached the highest point.
+Within a minute I was at their side. Below was the large sheet of Lago
+Viedma, between the mountains behind it a corner of Lago Argentino, and
+far away to the south the long, jagged line of the Baguales Mountains.
+Behind these was our goal. The _meseta_ slopes gradually towards Lake
+Viedma, the surface of which is only 825 feet above sea-level. In vain
+we looked for a camping-place on the slope. We wanted to avoid the
+_détour_ to Rio Cangrejos; but nowhere was grass, water, or fuel, so
+we were forced to seek that river. The dogs kept up our spirits. They
+stopped and sniffed round a bush, where an unmistakable odour of skunk
+indicated the reason. It had happened often before, but generally they
+had to be contented with the smell. Here, however, the wretched little
+beast sat ready to defend the position, glaring defiantly at the enemy.
+Wise by experience, Prince was careful, but the innocent Pavo threw
+himself on the animal; quick as lightning it turned round and sent him
+a well-directed volley right in his face. He retired, rolled in the
+sand wild with rage, rushed at it again, but with the same result.
+Now Prince also advanced, and the two companions did not leave the
+battle-ground till the skunk was changed into a shapeless mass. All
+the afternoon they behaved as if they had lost their wits--they indeed
+tried to run away from themselves to get rid of the horrible smell,
+making us double up with laughter. Two days later they still perfumed
+the surroundings with the nauseous smell.
+
+Rio Cangerjo has a canyon of the kind one does not discover till one
+is close to it. Down in the bottom nature was different altogether--any
+amount of fuel, rich grass, and clear water. Next day we passed the
+east end of Lago Viedma. One has a very fine view from there. The shape
+is still more regular than that of Lago Buenos Aires. Hardly can one
+imagine a greater difference between the two extremities of an Andine
+lake, and here one is able to observe it at a single glance. To the
+west a gigantic glacier comes down to the water between fantastic
+summits; to the east the low, sandy pampas stretches as far as one can
+see. We rode down to the shore to the waving fields of _Stipa_-grass,
+the long, silky brushes floating eastward on a fresh breeze. The
+further we came east and south the more barren was the ground, and
+during the whole trip we never saw a tract more bare than this. Large
+parts are almost desert-like. Save for some armadilloes the camp was
+quite inanimate.
+
+Lago Viedma empties into Lago Argentino by means of a broad river,
+called Rio de la Leona, in whose valley we had hoped to find pasture
+for the horses, but were greatly disappointed. At two places we saw
+great piles of guanaco bones, of which the explanation was that the
+guanacos have certain places where they lie down to die.
+
+We camped near the outlet. Our horses had hardly any grass, and we
+tried to keep an eye on them. After it had got dark Pagels went out
+and drove them down to the river, but nothing was of any use, for they
+wandered far and our start the next day was much delayed.
+
+We followed the east shore of Rio Leona. At first the ground did not
+present any difficulties, but after a while the valley changed into one
+of the finest canyons in South Patagonia. Thanks to the paths made,
+first by guanacos and afterwards by horses, one is able to pass the
+barranca, though the utmost care is necessary. Besides, we were already
+prepared for what was to come, for Mr. Reeves, who knew the way, had
+told us that we should have to climb the barranca and continue at a
+higher altitude. We found a ravine where we could lead the horses,
+climbed high up, and came into a country the like of which we had never
+seen before. It is difficult to imagine anything more desolate and
+barren. In every direction a wilderness of hills, ridges, and ravines,
+all the landscape of a yellowish-grey colour, with nowhere a green
+blade or a drop of water. The air was oppressively hot; not one sound
+broke the absolute silence, not a living soul was seen or heard. Thus
+it must feel to travel on a planet where life has died out. One has to
+walk with great care, for the ground is full of small, scarcely visible
+cracks, which open below into large, funnel-shaped holes, probably
+formed by water in the spring. The horses were not accustomed to such
+pitfalls, and would have gone right down had we not looked well after
+them. We felt quite uneasy in this desert, and welcomed the murmur
+of the river and the fresh breeze with joy. In outward appearance
+the landscape reminds one of the famous “loess” in China, though
+geologically there is no resemblance.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW OF PAMPAS NEAR LAKE ARGENTINO.]
+
+[Illustration: DEAD LANDSCAPE, EAST OF LEONA RIVER.]
+
+The ground along by the river made us very tired, and with longing we
+looked for human dwellings, knowing that a German settler, Karl Fuhr,
+should live somewhere on the other side of the river. The river
+must be crossed in a boat, and as soon as we got sight of the house we
+made a signal-fire. When we came down to the river he met us and took
+us and the luggage across. The horses were left on the other side, the
+_yegua_ with _maneas_ on and one horse with a tether; thus we felt
+easy in spite of the bad grass. Carlos Fuhr is well known throughout
+Patagonia, and his yarns and adventures would fill a book. He was there
+at the time when fortresses were built to check the Indians, when the
+veil of fairy-tales still hung over Patagonia. He had tried a little of
+everywhere, but at last seemed to have settled for good. Especially is
+he known for one achievement: he wounded and captured Ascensio Brunel,
+the horse-thief and murderer, the “wild man” of Patagonia, who appeared
+when least expected and disappeared as suddenly as he came, the outlaw
+whose fame reaches from Nahuelhuapi to Ushuaia, who had frustrated
+the efforts of all Patagonian policemen. At our request Fuhr kindly
+promised to transport us across Rio Santa Cruz in his ferry-boat. Thus
+we saved both time and money, the road striking the river further east,
+where there is a _boliche_. The landlord has a ferry, but to go there
+would have necessitated a _détour_, and the man is known for keeping
+his guests under all sorts of excuses; he postpones the crossing and
+one has to pay high prices for accommodation.
+
+We wanted to cross on the day of our arrival, but according to Fuhr it
+was blowing too hard; the horses would meet a head-wind and perhaps
+not be able to swim against it. On February 2 we got away. It was
+very long before we secured the horses, for the watch-horse had broken
+his rope and there was no trace of any of them. We searched in all
+directions, till at last we found them mixed up with other horses and
+the mare without _maneas_. The reason of all this confusion was love,
+in the shape of a stallion, who, for Tecla’s sake, had abandoned his
+harem. Down at the river Santa Cruz, the outlet of the Lakes Argentino
+and Viedma, we met two other parties waiting to cross with their
+_tropillas_. One of them was the inspector of police at Lago Argentino,
+the other a man from the Baker Company on his way to Punta Arenas with
+the last peons. Through Captain Steele he had heard about us, and now
+brought news from him. A steamer had called in Baker, Steele and the
+other men had gone away in her, and the farm was now empty, cattle and
+sheep running wild.
+
+The small ferry runs on a thin steel cable, and only people and luggage
+are carried by it. The horses had to swim the distance of nearly 400
+yards. They were driven in with loud shouts till they got out of their
+depth. It was a fine sight to see the three troops swimming in the
+strong current, which took them more and more out of their course, but
+at the same time we felt anxious. It is not uncommon that weaker horses
+are caught by the current and drowned, and we had hardly any experience
+of our horses as swimmers. With our glasses we followed them eagerly.
+Vingel was the first man home, then came Trumf and Isac. One after
+another came out, shook himself, and was all right. We felt relieved
+when they were all in safety. Now we crossed--the ferry driven by the
+current in every direction--caught our animals and bade farewell to
+our fellow passengers. They took the usual route south, but we set our
+course on the Baguales Mountains, south of the lake, where we pitched
+our camp that night. Quensel had now crossed his track of the summer
+before. In Mr. Cattle’s farm, not far from the shore, he had his
+headquarters for some time, and from there he undertook an interesting
+boat-trip which he relates in the next chapter. His memories of
+Estancia Cattle were so pleasant that he would not pass at a distance
+of some miles without shaking hands with his old friends; I myself very
+much wanted to visit Cerro Buenos Aires, while Halle and Pagels would
+continue up towards the pass over the mountains and camp by the last
+bushes for the sake of the fuel.
+
+We saddled Flax and Johansson early in the morning and made west. It
+was a pleasure to set them at a gallop, for with the packhorses we had
+generally been confined to a walk or trot, and now found them as good
+as the horses we borrowed for our excursions round the settlements.
+The farm we now went to visit is pleasantly situated on the north
+slope of Cerro Buenos Aires between two forest-patches. The master of
+the house was not in, but we were welcomed by his partner, one of the
+most remarkable figures of the extensive gallery one is able to call
+to mind after a long journey. She was the Amazon of Patagonia, and I
+had heard of her before. When she comes walking towards you dressed
+like a man, with hair cut and pipe in mouth, nobody could tell that
+a woman, and an educated, intelligent English lady of a very good
+family, is before him. The equal of any man, she takes part in the
+daily work on the farm, throws her lasso like a _gaucho_, or digs in
+her garden, where there are cauliflowers as well as strawberries. I am
+afraid my reader may think her a disagreeable person only wanting to
+get herself talked about, and at a tea-party in Punta Arenas her very
+name is enough to call forth a cry of indignation. But do not form an
+opinion too hastily. Nobody comes to Cattle’s farm with an unfavourable
+preconceived opinion without leaving it with quite another, and, like
+myself, finding the woman _gaucho_ a highly interesting and genial
+person. We have nothing to do, however, with her story--it is a romance
+as romantic as any. For the last seven years she had not left the farm.
+
+According to our agreement we were to join the caravan on the 4th. We
+stopped for the night and made an excursion to Cerro Buenos Aires,
+where one gets a splendid view over the lake. Up there, on the stony
+slopes, a disaster long expected happened: my old boots refused to
+serve any more. I had long foreseen the catastrophe, but in vain tried
+to get a pair large enough. Most people in Patagonia seem to have small
+feet, and those who have not had no boots to spare. The result was
+that I had to leave Cattle without any and pass the Baguales range in
+a pair of slippers, which, however, is not as bad as it sounds, for
+one is able to ride most of the way. It was already late when we left
+the farm, and in a gallop we made for Rio Centinela--which we were to
+follow up to the pass. We looked for the tracks of our caravan in
+vain, although some passages along the river are so narrow that one has
+to ride in single file. It grew dark; still no trace of a camp. We kept
+high up along the barranca to get a better view, but the distance to
+the last calafate bushes was greater than we had thought, and it was
+already night before we saw the fire. Halle told us that two strange
+horses had joined the _tropilla_, and we resolved to let them help us
+across, should they still be there in the morning. They were, so we
+saddled them, and found them to be a pair of good horses. Both of them
+were marked, probably left behind by some traveller, and we let them
+go when we were on the other side. Sierra de los Baguales, named after
+the wild horses found there in old times--in other parts we had seen
+such, as well as wild cattle--makes a very irregular impression, thanks
+to the basaltic cover. The pass itself is very picturesque, with its
+mighty pillars and masses of stone in the shape of ruined castles and
+fortresses. The way along the Centinela valley cannot be called bad
+in comparison with what we were used to; there is indeed much boggy
+ground, but one can get round most of it. The caravan went ahead of me,
+for in spite of my soft slippers I crossed the pass on foot and secured
+a rich harvest of Alpine plants. Guanacos were plentiful and very tame,
+and our dogs were very energetic in hunting them, but without result,
+for the young were big enough to follow their parents.
+
+We had crossed the wall between wild life and civilization. In front
+of us was the part of Chile called the Magellan Territories, South
+Patagonia, colonized throughout. Within a couple of days we should get
+into communication with the rest of the world; the post was waiting for
+us, and there is a telephone line to Punta Arenas. We had taken the
+decisive step. On the south side of the pass originates Rio Baguales,
+the valley which we followed till we came across a small calafate
+thicket, which afforded us some fuel.
+
+The last camp! The hot _asado_ over the last camp-fire, at least with
+the whole caravan. Certainly it was high time that this long journey
+came to an end, but we thought with regret of all the pleasant hours
+spent round the fire, and with unmixed satisfaction we looked back on
+the past months with their thousands of varied memories. For the last
+time we struck camp, followed the river another couple of miles, and
+came down on the slope of Cerro Contreras, where we soon found a road
+and where a strong smell of creosote met us, showing that a “dip” was
+in progress somewhere near by. We soon caught sight of the large iron
+shed, and rode into a well-kept farm where dipping was going on. It
+was one of the _estancias_ belonging to the “Sociedad Esplotadora de
+Tierra del Fuego”; below I shall say something about its influence
+on the history of South Patagonia. We were very well received; the
+manager even lent me a pair of boots which were big enough. From here
+we could telephone to Cerro Castillo, the central _estancia_, where
+we spoke with Mr. Burbury, the chief there, whose acquaintance we had
+made at Punta Arenas. He welcomed us back and told us that a big mail
+lay waiting for us. We left Halle behind; fossiliferous layers had been
+reported in the neighbourhood, but no specialist had ever visited
+them. Quensel and I continued on to Cerro Castillo, the headquarters of
+the company. Never before had I found our progress so slow; the reins
+seemed to burn our fingers, and with joy we hailed the first glimpse
+of the big settlement, where we stayed in the manager’s quarters. Two
+boxes of letters and papers waited, for it was four months since we had
+any news, and far into the night we stayed up reading, surrounded by
+the mail spread out over table, chairs, and bed.
+
+Before I go on to describe our excursions in South Patagonia some words
+on the history of its colonization might be appropriate here. After
+the foundation of Punta Arenas, in 1843, Chileans as well as strangers
+started to settle along the Straits, mostly for sheep-farming, but also
+to look for gold or other valuable metals. Many people in Chile did
+not believe much in the future of the colony, owing to the fact that
+the region was unknown to them and reported as being hardly habitable.
+However, civilization spread over the Brunswick Peninsula and into
+Tierra del Fuego, and finally the Ultima Esperanza district, which
+interests us more especially, was also populated. This was at the
+beginning of the nineties. At first the colonists settled down without
+paying any tributes or taxes and the land was apportioned by private
+agreement. In 1884 the Government assumed control and the first fixed
+lots were given on leasehold tenure. South Patagonia had already proved
+to be a land of the future where sheep-farming might become a source
+of wealth for many, and voices were soon heard arguing that the State
+should sell the land. Without being owner of the soil nobody would
+sink either money or labour in it, but a sort of sweating system was
+introduced in order to make the greatest possible amount of money in
+the shortest space of time. It was very long before the Government
+consented to listen to the complaints from the Straits of Magellan, and
+when at last something was done it was done in a manner hardly likely
+to satisfy the just demands of the farmers. In 1902 it was resolved to
+dispose of one million hectares by auction, but everything was done in
+such a hurry that many colonists had no time to arrange their business
+affairs, and the auction was to be held in--Santiago! The auction
+was postponed, and in 1903 part of the land was sold, divided into
+ninety-five lots. Only in the Ultima Esperanza district had everything
+remained as it was.
+
+The first _estancia_ there was started in 1893, and by the beginning
+of the next century there were a score of flourishing settlements,
+life and movement grew apace amongst the mixed English and Scotch
+population, and Punta Arenas increased rapidly. Then a decree was
+issued ordering a large piece of land to be put up for auction in
+Santiago on March 15, 1905. People were attacked by a veritable
+fever. In a few days’ time half a dozen companies had been formed
+with big capitals, and in order to save their homes the colonists
+formed themselves into one company, the “United Estancias of Ultima
+Esperanza.” At the auction there were wild scenes, enormous bids were
+made, and lots were sold at prices ten times their true value. The
+result was that most of the purchasers could not pay at the proper
+time--for the companies’ capitals existed mostly on paper--they lost
+their rights, and another date was fixed for another sale. Meanwhile
+the Sociedad Esplotadora, which owned large estates in Tierra del
+Fuego, appeared on the scene. With a big joint capital at its back it
+entered the field and acquired almost the whole district. The colonists
+had to surrender unconditionally and take what it pleased the company
+to pay them for houses and fixtures, the cosy homes were broken up and
+Cerro Castillo made the headquarters. The company now has about one
+million sheep. I can hardly believe that the revolution was favourable
+to Chile’s interests, and I daresay that is a rather ugly page in the
+history of a so-called democratic people. Men who knew Patagonia before
+and now say that the star of Ultima Esperanza sank when the all-mighty
+company became its master. Personally we owe much to its leading men,
+Mr. A. Cameron of Punta Arenas and Mr. T. Burbury of Cerro Castillo.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII
+
+LAGO ARGENTINO
+
+
+Thanks to the kindness of Quensel, I am able to give some details of
+his interesting and perilous voyagings on Lago Argentino. This big lake
+has the typical Andine character; its western branches run far into the
+mountains and receive extensive glaciers from the inland ice. Quensel
+went on horseback to the end of the south arm and to Lago Frio, but in
+order to continue his work to the most westerly part he had to take
+to the water. There was in Cattle’s farm an old canvas boat, rather
+dilapidated but still usable, of the same pattern used by us on Lago
+Belgrano. Here follows Quensel’s narrative:
+
+“At sunrise on January 13 (1908) we finally got away, after having
+waited two days on the shore for calm weather. From the very first
+moment Æolus was not very gracious to us. A surface like a mirror and
+a blazing sun encouraged us to set out on the lake, but we had just
+gone so far that it was too late to turn back when the first black line
+appeared announcing a gale of wind, closely followed by a white line of
+foam, and the water was flung more than thirty or forty feet into the
+air. To pull against one of these squalls was impossible, and the best
+thing to do would have been to land, but often there were steep cliffs
+all round and the only chance was to turn the stern against the sea,
+which threatened to crush the small, heavily laden boat. But Pagels had
+not sailed round the globe for nothing; his skill served us in good
+stead, and everything turned out all right, though more than once we
+had a narrow escape.
+
+“Our first destination was the Bismarck Glacier in the Southern Arm,
+which we reached in two days. Half-way we had met some big icebergs
+and were prepared for what was to come. They measured about a hundred
+feet above the water. The glacier in question was first visited and
+described by Professor Hauthal, and is of special interest. From the
+inland ice it protrudes more than a mile out into the water; the height
+of its front wall, crowned by innumerable pillars and needles of pure
+ice, varies between sixty and a hundred feet. In front of it was a
+broad belt of drift-ice, but we navigated carefully through the ‘pack,’
+which gives the branch its name, Brazo de los Témpanos.
+
+“We camped on the south side of the glacier and spent the following
+days in studying the ice. What makes the Bismarck Glacier so remarkable
+is that, in contrast to all other glaciers in South Patagonia that I
+have seen, it is advancing rather rapidly. Without exception the others
+withdraw, sometimes indeed so fast that the vegetation is not able to
+follow, so that there is a sharp limit where the ice stood before. But
+this one forces its way through the high forest on both sides, crushing
+everything in its way; I saw trees, still green, that had been knocked
+down by the ice, and under the very edge shrubs still alive peeped
+forth. We were able to reach the southern end of this fiord. I walked
+on foot to Lago Frio and climbed a mountain. Below, in a southerly
+direction, was Lago Dickson nestling among green woods; in the west
+were Mount Stokes and the glaciers from the inland cover, the largest
+dividing into two branches, one extending to Lago Dickson, the other to
+Lago Frio. Thus I stood on the water-parting between Lago Argentino and
+the Payne region, between the Atlantic and the Pacific--the water from
+one and the same glacier seeking such different ways.
+
+“We left the southern fiord in order to get into the northern. The
+entrance is narrow, but inside it widens into quite a system of inlets,
+of which different maps give different ideas. A narrow gap called
+Hell Gate is the entrance; outside we waited one day before we could
+venture in, and late in the afternoon of January 31 we got through.
+Everything indicated that we should have a calm night, so we resolved
+to row as long as we could. Hour after hour passed. Above in the
+twilight hung the tremendous cliffs, sometimes as high as 3000 feet;
+in the half-light summer night we could just make out the few places
+where we could seek refuge in case of a sudden storm. At midnight the
+moon rose, the larger icebergs shone with a ghostly glimmer, their
+fantastic outlines assuming the most marvellous shapes. With frequent
+changes we made good speed. We knew that the storm was only gathering
+its strength, and our object must be to take advantage of every minute.
+At 3 A.M. we caught sight of a big glacier glowing with a certain
+peculiar light as if it were luminous. Nothing is more difficult than
+to judge the distance to a glacier or an iceberg in the darkness.
+One believes oneself to be close to a piece of ice, or even turns aside
+to avoid a collision--and there is half an hour’s pull to it!
+
+[Illustration: THE BISMARCK GLACIER, LAKE ARGENTINO.]
+
+[Illustration: THE UPSALA GLACIER, LAKE ARGENTINO.
+
+(The biggest in Patagonia.)]
+
+[Illustration: ICEBERGS AND CANVAS BOAT, LAKE ARGENTINO.]
+
+“At dawn we landed on a low promontory, where the fiord divides into
+three branches, each of them ending in a glacier. Large masses of
+ice were adrift here--one could very well imagine one was in a polar
+country. The next day we wanted to pull into the southern branch. Tired
+as we were after the strenuous night, we overslept ourselves, and the
+sun was high when we were ready for a fresh start. The clouds had begun
+to chase each other across the sky, portending wind. Hastily we loaded
+the boat and set out, but in a couple of hours the first gust came,
+and a strong swell from the bottom of the inlet showed us that it was
+blowing hard in there already. We followed the eastern shore; it was
+steep and inaccessible, and a heavy sea broke on the rocks. There was
+no time for long consultations. We chose a place where a shelf ran out
+into the water, pulled to it, and I jumped ashore ready to hold the
+boat. It was an anxious moment. Up to my knees in water, I managed
+to hold it; pots and pans and sleeping-bags, cameras and haunches of
+venison were hurled up on to the shelf. We bore our craft out of reach
+of the waves and were safe. But not a moment too soon, for five minutes
+later we should not have been able to land there.
+
+“We had now time to examine our refuge more closely. The small ledge
+was overgrown with shrubs; above rose a precipitous wall. The ten
+square yards served our purpose, and with the teapot and the frying-pan
+over the fire we spent a comfortable night in our prison. We tried
+again the next day, but in vain, and I resolved to go back and devote
+my energies to the north glacier and the big mountains round it. At
+nightfall two days later we landed on a beach with high forest in the
+background and a row of large icefloes outside. The glacier itself was
+hidden by a promontory. The following night we had a most remarkable
+experience, that might have had very serious consequences. As usual we
+had pulled our boat high up on the shore, sixty feet from the water
+and ten or twelve feet above the level of the lake. Wishing to get
+away at sunrise, we went to bed early. At dawn I was roused by Pagels,
+who stood in the tent door, ripping out with a fine flow of strong
+language: ‘Himmel! Herrgott! Sakrament! Donnerwetter noch ein Mal!’ it
+came without a pause. I sprang up to see what had happened, supposing
+that a fox had made off with some of our geese, a trick Mr. Reynard had
+played us before. But the sight I beheld drove me to complete Pagel’s
+morning prayer in fluent Swedish. The broad strip of beach where we
+had landed had disappeared, innumerable small icefloes floated round
+almost to our tent; our boat was gone--on the spot where it had been
+left a small, deep blue iceberg was aground. Where was the boat? What
+had happened? How were we to reach human habitations again? These
+questions whirled through my brain at the very first moment. To two of
+them there was no answer--what about the last? The future looked dark
+enough--a march of four or five days across the unknown Alps north of
+the lake was not a very encouraging prospect. But we had good luck.
+We found the boat 800 yards further down, stuck fast between two
+huge blocks. And later we learnt the explanation of the catastrophe.
+In front of the glacier was a barrier about three miles long and one
+and a half broad; large icebergs were piled on each other, and the
+interstices were filled up with smaller pieces of ice. It looked
+like a field of screw-ice in the Arctic sea. We understood that the
+glacier had discharged all this ice during the night; it dammed up the
+inlet, making the water in the narrow place rise nearly fourteen feet.
+Gradually it recovered its usual level. The gigantic glacier with the
+ice-barrier presented a splendid sight. I have called it the Upsala
+Glacier; it is the largest I have seen in Patagonia, the front wall
+attaining a length of not less than eight or nine miles. The wall was
+a hundred feet high, more or less. On the flanks magnificent granite
+mountains rose; in the background there was a marked depression, for
+‘Ventisquero Upsala’ comes directly from the inland ice. During an
+excursion on foot up in a side valley I gained my northernmost point.
+With regret I had to go back and commence my return journey. The boat
+being heavier than ever, we had an adventurous run through Hell Gate.
+Pagels ran before the wind as far as he could, and I had my hands full
+baling with my hat, the most capacious baler I could find.”
+
+After two days Quensel was back in Cattle’s farm, and from there
+went to Ultima Esperanza, whence he made a trip to the Balmaceda
+Channel. His arrival in Punta Arenas, where he joined the rest of the
+expedition, has already been related.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII
+
+OUR JOURNEY TO PUNTA ARENAS
+
+
+On February 8 Quensel went to visit Mr. Ferrier, of Estancia Payne. I
+had to stay till I had gone through my collections, which badly needed
+attention. The cook, a Malay, was very fond of looking at my herbarium,
+but wondered why I made so much fuss over plants good for nothing,
+either for food or for medicine. I doubt whether I was able to explain
+the reason of my interest, and probably I left with him the remembrance
+of a more or less crazy fellow. I had also to write some letters and
+telegrams, which Mr. Burbury took with him to Punta Arenas. On the 9th
+I was ready, and rode away west accompanied by Pagels and a packhorse.
+The road led through the well-fenced camps of the company. Some rounded
+mountains with groves of roble forest gave the first idea of the Andes.
+We passed some buildings; it was the late Estancia Kark, one of the
+first in this part, but now, of course, abandoned. The same sight met
+us at Tweedie. Lago Toro lay open to our eyes, a typical Alpine lake,
+surrounded by high mountains. It disappeared behind Cerro Toro, but
+another lake spread out instead, and we followed it for a couple of
+miles. This was Lago Sarmiento, remarkable as the largest Andine basin
+without an outlet. Considerable deposits of calcareous tufas are found
+on the shores. We halted at a house, but as nobody was at home we only
+let the horses take a mouthful of grass and continued our march. The
+road had come to an end, and was succeeded by a narrow path, winding
+over the hilly, forest-clad country. At once the view opened out; there
+was a lagoon embedded in green woods, and we saw a small hut--our
+destination. I have hardly ever seen so many foxes as on this day, and
+never any so impudent. They sat down calmly on the roadside and stared
+at us, or ran about among the flocks of sheep. All were of the small
+kind (_Canis Azaræ_).
+
+There was nobody at home here either. Some dogs ran round, and one had
+been shut in in the room, where we could not get. We had no provisions
+and looked all round in the kitchen to find something eatable. A piece
+of very dry bread and some coffee was all we found, and outside in a
+tree was the flesh of an old mare. Pagels did not conceal his disdain,
+but I told him to fry some horse-steak, and after he had seen me start
+with a good appetite he was not slow to follow my example. In Patagonia
+horse-flesh has a much worse reputation than with us.
+
+All the day we had seen the Payne Mountain. I had heard much of it,
+and Quensel had described the impressions he got in very enthusiastic
+terms. And though I thought myself to be very _blasé_, when I beheld
+Payne for the first time free from clouds I stopped, looked, and
+never got tired of looking. And at the same moment I knew that from
+Nahuelhuapi to Cape Horn, from the Pacific to the pampas, there is
+but _one_ Payne. It looks like one of those geographical diagrams
+where, in order to save space, the height-scale has been overdone
+in proportion to the scale of miles. A beautiful array of peaks,
+one higher and more abrupt than the other, where the interesting
+geological structure may be understood by anybody, the main part being
+a light grey granite, the peaks black slates, and the limit between
+the different rocks very sharp. The king is Payne Oeste (West Payne),
+whose summit of 10,650 feet is covered with ice, and perhaps the most
+magnificent part is Tres Torres (Three Towers), three enormous pillars
+rising 2600 feet above the surrounding glaciers. The secret of Payne’s
+beauty is partly all this, but mainly that it rises abrupt and isolated
+from the low pampas without any marked junctions with the rest of the
+range. One is not gradually prepared for what is to come, but suddenly
+has these 10,000 feet of rock close at hand, with no hills or lower
+mountains to be climbed first.
+
+The next morning we continued, following a narrow horse-track cut by
+Mr. Ferrier. The ground is so broken that the path in more than one
+place makes riding too hard work for the horses. We had an adventure
+with our packhorse, who took the opportunity of running away when we
+were busy watering our horses. After a wild chase he was captured. At
+Rio Payne, a large river draining this district, we found a boat; the
+horses swam, and after another mile’s ride we reached Estancia Payne.
+At the auction of land it was purchased by a young Englishman, the
+first to settle there, Mr. Walter Ferrier, who now welcomed us.
+
+Here I will insert a brief description of some excursions undertaken
+by Quensel during the summer of 1907. On November 16 he left Ultima
+Esperanza with Pagels, and spent some time with Mr. Burbury in Cerro
+Castillo. From there he went to Ferrier’s place. He has written about
+his travels in a Swedish journal, and I now give a summary of his
+description.
+
+“With Estancia Ferrier as headquarters I made a series of excursions
+into the mountains and to the glaciers. From the top of the first high
+mountain I climbed, Cerro Donoso, I had a fine view over the mountain
+range, and as none of the higher summits had been climbed before, I
+got a chance of completing our knowledge of the geography of these
+parts. To the west was the edge of the inland ice; gently inclining, it
+extends as far as eye can reach, at first interspersed with _nunatahks_
+rising like steep black islands; further west even the steepest peaks
+are ice-clad. Split up into numerous glaciers, the ice comes round into
+all the valleys. In the vast moraines I had a good field for work, for
+from the stones brought down it was possible to form an opinion as to
+the structure of the mountains under the ice-cover. An ascent in these
+parts is a different thing from one in Scandinavia or in Switzerland.
+The obstacles are first the swamps round the foot, then an almost
+impenetrable forest-belt. Once above the forest it is generally not
+difficult to reach a considerable height. The scenery from one of the
+mountains is well worth the trouble of the climb. Eastwards the endless
+pampas, in the west the Andes in all their splendour, and between the
+hundred smaller and larger lakes--everything the result of the great
+Ice Age!
+
+“From Ferrier’s farm I also went to Payne, a mountain differing widely
+from the rest even in its outlines; even a non-geologist can guess that
+special forces have been at work in its creation. The lower part is
+nearly white, a light granitic rock crowned by a cap of black slates.
+In fact we have here the ideal laccolite. On eruption the glowing magma
+did not break up through the crust, but only pressed up the slate like
+a vault. The way to Payne was for the most part difficult. We started
+with three horses and tents and provisions for a week, but after the
+first day had to leave the tent and everything not absolutely necessary
+behind. Our route followed the south edge; the forest grew worse,
+step by step we struggled with prickly berberis thickets. After six
+hours’ hard work we had advanced a distance of hardly two miles, and
+the horses, not used to this kind of work, refused to continue. Our
+position was not an enviable one; it would cost us at least four hours
+to get back to a place where there was any grass for the horses, and
+hardly more than a mile ahead we saw open ground. But the thickets grew
+worse still; we were shut in by a steep mountain-wall on one side and a
+small lake on the other. This last, unknown before and named by us Lago
+Skottsberg, now became our refuge. We resolved to take to the water,
+and this proved possible. Once brought down, the horses were able to
+wade along the shore most of the way; only twice were we forced to
+unsaddle them and let them swim. The small, beautiful lake is visited
+by terrible tornadoes, which drive its waters into columns 300 feet
+high.
+
+“At last we reached a camping-place with good pasture, and round the
+fire we soon forgot all our troubles. But the night brought others.
+Hardly had we crept into our sleeping-bags and gone to sleep when snow
+began to fall. Only after some hours did I realize that I lay shivering
+with cold in a pool of water, which was trickling in from the top.
+The rest of the night was not very comfortable. When we rose we found
+several inches of snow on the ground. In spite of the difficulties, our
+survey of Payne yielded very good results, uniting a highly interesting
+scientific work with a visit to a splendid mountain district.
+
+“Our route the next day led first through a beautiful forest, easy to
+march in, where deer now and then looked at us curiously from behind
+the trees. Once we suddenly came across a whole family, peacefully
+grazing in a small depression. They did not show any sign of fright,
+and we sat down to light our pipes, waiting to see how they would
+behave. One after the other they now came to look at us; advanced till
+they were eight or ten steps off, went round us, and then walked off
+with an expression of sheer amazement. A fine buck came so close that
+the smoke from my pipe reached his nostrils; he shook his head and
+turned aside, evidently not appreciating the tobacco. To kill these
+animals, save to appease our hunger, would not have been possible for
+me; they were much too confiding. But our way led us higher, and now,
+suddenly, the aspect of nature changed. We had reached the edge of the
+forest; below lay a deep canyon, its upper part filled with a glacier.
+We descended and followed the ice up the valley, and now stood in the
+heart of Payne so to speak. All round precipitous walls rose, the
+narrow valley by which we had come had disappeared behind a protruding
+piece of rock; nowhere was an exit visible. One stands as in a hollow
+mountain; the interior is worn away, the outer cover is partly left.
+This peculiar circumstance is explained by the geology; the interior
+consists of the readily crumbling granite, the cover of the more
+durable and resisting slates. All the day a never-ceasing cannonade
+saluted us; masses of ice tumbled down the precipices all round,
+and were welded together on the next ledge to form a new glacier,
+slowly advancing till a new barranca caused a repetition of the same
+phenomenon. On our return some days later to my great astonishment
+I caught sight of a snow-white deer, which rapidly disappeared into
+the forest. The following days I crossed the place in all directions
+without finding any trace of it. Without doubt it was an albino variety
+of the common huemul, but as I had never heard of anything like it I
+very much wanted to get hold of the remarkable beast.
+
+“After I had finished my work round Payne I moved my camp northward.
+Our way led west and north of the charming Lago Sarmiento, a lake eight
+and a half miles long, lacking superficial outlet of any sort; only
+some insignificant streams empty into it. The water, clear as crystal,
+deep blue and brackish, the constant temperature, great depth, and the
+large deposits of calcareous tufas indicate that forces other than the
+ordinary ones of nature played a part when it was formed. Together with
+some alkaline and carbonated wells in the vicinity, it exhibits the
+last remnants of a post-volcanic action that followed upon the outburst
+of the immense eruptive masses in the neighbourhood.
+
+“On Christmas Eve I came to a shepherd’s house, and stayed there to
+give my horses a rest.”
+
+From there Quensel crossed the Baguales range, using a pass situated
+west of the one by which we came down, went to Cattle’s place, and made
+the boat journey on Lago Argentino already described.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+When I arrived at Ferrier’s _estancia_ Quensel was ready to leave;
+he intended to go straight to Ultima Esperanza to complete some
+observations of the previous summer. Ferrier was just expecting
+visitors, a large party from Otway station, and followed Quensel
+expecting to meet them on the way. Thus I was left quite alone in the
+house. I was suffering from a bout of influenza and went to bed early.
+But my rest was soon disturbed, for hardly had I put out the light
+when somebody knocked at the door: the whole picnic party was there,
+ladies, gentlemen, and children, greatly astonished at not finding Mr.
+Ferrier at home! He had evidently passed them in the brushwood, and I
+had to take charge of them. There was no cook, as Ferrier prepared his
+food himself, so as soon as I could I got some clothes on, went out in
+the kitchen, and arranged a quick supper for eight persons. All the
+blankets and pillows of the house were collected, and gradually all
+settled down. The next day, however, after breakfast, Ferrier returned
+and I was relieved.
+
+With some provisions in our _maletas_ Pagels and I started on the 13th
+in order to penetrate as far west as we could. Ferrier had lent us
+fresh horses, and after a fine gallop across his estates we came down
+to Rio de Grey (Rio Blanco), the outlet of Lago de Grey, incorrectly
+called Lago Hauthal on the Argentine maps. With the assistance of a
+Swede, Mr. Hülphers, in Patagonia known as “Klondyke-Hans,” Ferrier
+had made a hang-bridge across the deep and rapid river. We carried
+our things across, swam the horses, and got into the saddle again,
+following the river till we came within sight of the lake. Between
+the trees we saw some fine icebergs, coming from the glacier in the
+north-western end. Close to the south end empties a river, bearing no
+name on the maps; we called it Rio del Hielo, or the Icy River, for it
+comes from the inland ice.
+
+It was a laborious ride. At first the mountains left a narrow space,
+overgrown with shrub-wood along by the water. We pushed through, often
+leading the horses; but the barranca rose higher and higher, heaps of
+blocks barred the way, the horses injured themselves and bled, which I
+did not at all like, as they were not mine. The forest became closer
+and closer, the thickets of _leña dura_ (_Maytenus magellanica_) so
+dense that we hardly saw the horses, which we dragged along by the
+_cabresta_. With slabs we built a road across the last pile of stones,
+and I felt relieved when we had the animals safe on the other side.
+Once more the ground became more even; a beautiful roble forest with
+a carpet of grass appeared; but after we had passed it we found the
+way barred for horses. The mountain ran out into the water, which here
+forms some rapids, and we made up our minds to camp and continue on
+foot the next day. We climbed part of the obstacle, and came on to
+broken ground, woody ravines alternating with small open spaces covered
+with grass-tussocks. The evergreen beech became more and more frequent.
+After a march of several hours we came to an even, gravelly plain, over
+which Rio del Hielo winds, and here the scenery was most imposing. The
+river flows from three different tongues of the inland ice. Opposite
+us was the _nunatahk_ called Cerro Zapato, further north the perfectly
+white Cerro Blanco, and in a north-easterly direction the Payne
+Mountain shows quite a new aspect. We followed one of the rivers up to
+the edge of the ice, for with our equipment we could not get further.
+I think it would be possible to cut across here to the Pacific. The
+distance as the crow flies to Peel Inlet cannot much exceed eighteen
+miles, but the ice is full of crevices.
+
+After twelve hours’ hard walk we were back at the starting-point, and
+spent a second night there. I had reached my goal and we could return.
+Down at Rio de Grey we had a passage of arms with the horses, who
+refused to swim; Pagels’ horse broke the _cabresta_ and ran away from
+him, but was captured again. I have seldom looked so shabby as when
+we came back to the settlement. My old faithful rags that had hung on
+since Bariloche and were old then were now at their last gasp. But a
+pair of Ferrier’s old trousers enabled me to leave his place dressed
+like a gentleman. His visitors had gone, he was left by himself, and
+I stayed with him another two days; then I had to go back to Cerro
+Castillo. Here I found letters from Halle, who had passed by there some
+days earlier on his way to Ultima Esperanza, and the next day I went
+there with the rest of our _tropilla_.
+
+Now one really knew one was in the civilized part of Patagonia--a broad
+cart-road, fringed with telephone poles, regarded with mistrust by our
+horses; here and there neat houses. We met many waggons and riders, but
+fortunately the locomotive of the company with its two big trailers
+stood still as we passed. Even then the mare nearly had a fit when
+she saw the monster. It was Saturday, and more than one traveller had
+already started to celebrate the holiday. We had just sat down by the
+roadside to rest when a swarthy figure came along, stopped and handed
+us a bottle, and did not leave us until we had taken two respectable
+pulls. After a while another fellow with another bottle appeared. We
+left the main track, the forest became finer and more lofty, and in
+the afternoon we arrived in Puerto Consuelo. Here Hermann Eberhard was
+waiting for us with his motor-boat, and we speedily ran up the narrow
+inlet to his villa. It is the cosiest place in Patagonia. Generally
+people do not take much trouble with their dwellings, and the stranger
+is astonished when he gets into Eberhard’s house and finds himself
+surrounded by all sorts of European comforts.
+
+[Illustration: LAST HOPE INLET.]
+
+The name Eberhard is famous in Patagonia. It was to a virgin land that
+Eberhard senior, late captain of the port in Port Stanley, came in
+1893 to try his fortune. We made his acquaintance in Punta Arenas in
+February 1908. Deeply interested in natural science he opened his home
+to all the explorers who came to these parts; Quensel also had been
+his guest. When we came back from the Channels in June we heard of his
+sudden and unexpected death. His son follows in his footsteps, and
+all who know him hope that the plot to deprive him of his camp will
+fail. On the occasion of the great auction in 1905, Captain Eberhard
+turned to the Government claiming that an exception for his piece
+of land ought to be made as he had explored the country and was the
+first colonist there. The Government proposed to the congress that he
+should get permission to buy his ground privately. In January 1906 this
+proposal passed the Senate, but the House of Deputies had not taken up
+the question yet. Therefore young Eberhard felt the ground anything but
+safe under him. Quensel and he had just returned from the boat journey;
+they had run into Worsley Sound and discovered two unknown inlets
+called Resi and Gesa; they also brought back a sketch-map.
+
+What especially has drawn scientists to Ultima Esperanza is the famous
+“Mylodon” cave, situated in a barranca some few miles from Puerto
+Consuelo. Here, fifteen years ago, Captain Eberhard found a most
+remarkable skin with small round bones embedded in the hide and covered
+by long coarse yellowish brown hair. It hung on his farm more than a
+year, nobody suspecting its immense scientific value--travellers cut
+off a piece as a souvenir, and O. Nordenskjöld also brought a piece to
+Sweden. Great was the astonishment when it was found that the skin had
+belonged to a giant sloth, and all sorts of rumours that this animal
+was still living in Patagonia were set going. At the same time the
+attention of the scientific world was drawn to the find, and in 1899
+Mr. E. Nordenskiöld went there to make excavations. A fine collection
+of bones and other remains of the big sloth, a _Glossotherium_, and
+many other animals, was brought together; in the upper strata he even
+found traces that a pre-historic human race had lived in the grotto.
+Close upon this Professor Hauthal of La Plata made an exploration of
+the great cavern, and in spite of the Glossotherium occurring only in
+the lowest stratum, he and his collaborators came to the conclusion
+that the sloth had probably been contemporaneous with man, and even
+domesticated by him, for in one corner of the cavern a big deposit of
+dung, suggesting a stable, was found. However, none of the persons who
+studied the place or the deposits believed that the animal was still
+living in Patagonia, which did not prevent a big English newspaper
+from sending an expedition under a young man, Mr. H. Pritchard, in
+order to capture a living specimen for the Zoo. This was in 1900. I do
+not expect the results of the expedition were commensurable with the
+expenses. There is much work left in the cavern. The floor is partly
+covered with a barrier of huge blocks which have fallen down from the
+roof since the deposits were formed; by removing them the layers must
+be found quite undisturbed. It is impossible to get an idea of the
+stratification in the remainder, for all sorts of people have been
+there digging without any method collecting curiosities which are sold
+in Punta Arenas. Our scheme did not embrace a new survey of the place,
+which is likely to cost much money and require considerable time.
+
+Naturally I would not leave Patagonia without having seen the famous
+cavern, and consequently we rode there. It cannot fail to produce a
+deep impression: the refuge of extinct animals and human beings. It is
+about eighty feet high and extends nearly 500 yards into the mountain.
+Large stalactites hang down from the roof. The very first glance shows
+how everything has been turned upside down by the reckless diggers. The
+so-called stable is still visible, and it is easy to get fine specimens
+of dung. There was also plenty of hair belonging to the curious beast,
+the Glossotherium. After we had seen enough of the great cavern we
+walked along the barranca on the look-out for new discoveries. A
+shepherd has told Mr. Eberhard, that he had found a second cavern but
+refused to give any details, waiting to dig out curiosities and sell
+them without partners. The forest is dense and we had to seek a while
+before we found the entrance hidden under the trees. This cavern also
+is very beautiful though only half the size of the original one. It was
+evident that the shepherd had done some digging there, but probably
+without result for the soil does not seem to contain anything at all.
+However it is necessary to make proper investigations.
+
+Before returning we visited another cave, a narrow crevice, where
+we had to crawl in on our stomachs. There was not much air, just
+sufficient for our piece of candle. Eberhard had found a funny locust
+in there living in the darkness. Neither eyes nor bright colours are
+of use to it; it is half blind and nearly colourless. As soon as we
+had got a number we crawled out again, not without trouble, for the
+stalactites got hold of our clothes like giant claws. The nature round
+Ultima Esperanza has a certain stamp of Northern Europe and I do not
+at all wonder that Europeans thrive better there than in other places.
+I myself got very fond of the place and deeply regretted that lack of
+time did not permit us a longer stay than a day and a half.
+
+On February 22 we said farewell, and after some hours’ ride passed
+the Argentine frontier, going on to Meyer’s estancia on Rio Turbio,
+where we had been invited to spend the night. Large heaps of empty
+champagne-bottles adorn the place, showing that sheep-farming in
+Patagonia is a profitable industry. We found Halle here. He was pleased
+with his time spent and nothing prevented us from riding directly
+to Punta Arenas, only three days’ journey. The road bends over a
+monotonous barren plain, over which a single basaltic mountain, Morro
+Chico, rises. It was dark when we reached the small hotel; we did not
+get much sleep, for the customers made a terrible noise all night. At
+eight o’clock we were in the saddle again. All along the track lay dead
+horses; here and there a fox was celebrating a feast, but our dogs soon
+laid him alongside the carrion. We halted at Laguna Blanca, another
+lake without an outlet, in order to get some food, but were soon off
+again for we had a long march before us. We had resolved to make a
+small _détour_ from the straight track and visit Otway Station, where
+we had been invited by the Saunders family whom I met at Ferrier’s
+farm, as the reader no doubt remembers. We thought of leaving our
+horses there and even hoped that Mr. Saunders, a representative of a
+very substantial company, would buy them.
+
+[Illustration: THE “NEOMYLODON” CAVE, LAST HOPE INLET.]
+
+Fortunately it was not too dark for us to find the side-path to the
+farm, which we expected soon to strike. The horses were tired, and
+to our surprise hour after hour went by without any trace of human
+dwellings. We alighted and led the animals, trying to follow an
+indistinct cart-track. We got on all right for a while, but lost it in
+the drifting sand on the shore of Otway Water, which we now saw again
+or at least heard, for it was pitch dark. At random we groped our way
+when suddenly we heard a dog bark. Good! where there is a dog there are
+also people. Led by the sound we found the place--a dog tied to a pole;
+we shouted but got no answer. Later we found out that some men working
+at a fence had a tent there. Probably they were frightened and dared
+not answer; it is impossible that they did not hear us.
+
+There we were. It was so dark that we could not see five yards: we
+spread over the ground signalling to each other with matches and
+finally found another cart-track. We mounted and made another move but
+suddenly the horses stopped; we alighted looking for the reason--a
+fence cut straight across the road. That was a funny road; there was
+no gate and we followed the fence in the direction we considered to
+be the best. It turned at a right angle and there we struck a proper
+road running south. We had almost given up all hope of finding Otway
+Station, believing that we had passed it at some distance, and we
+did not know where the road led to. Then I thought I saw a house; my
+imagination provided it with doors and windows, I saw a light--and was
+greatly disappointed when it was reduced to a big piece of rock. I lit
+a match and looked at my watch; it was the witching hour of midnight.
+
+Our surprise and joy were great when half an hour later a real light
+was seen; we set our horses going and reached Otway Station. We had
+gone exactly the route we ought, but were mistaken in the distance. We
+were almost ashamed to knock at the door at this late hour, but needs
+must and in Patagonia the stranger is excused; he may come at the
+strangest hours of the day--or night. One of the young ladies came down
+and made a cup of cocoa, and as soon as we could we slipped into bed,
+for I will not deny that we were pretty tired.
+
+February 21 was a day of great satisfaction: Mr. Saunders did not
+really want any horses, but nevertheless bought them and paid well.
+A great anxiety was thus removed, especially we were pleased to know
+our horses were in good hands. They had carried us across swamps and
+streams, over mountain-passes, where stony ground, snowfields and
+floating soil succeeded each other; up barrancas, where the least
+false step would have proved fatal, and we had grown to like them and
+even parted with them with regret. Quite sad I saddled Solo for the
+last time. Our riding horses turned with a neigh to their comrades;
+they must carry us the last few miles to Punta Arenas from where they
+were sent back to join the tropilla. After a nice canter we were down
+on Cabeza del Mar, a bay that once communicated with Otway Water.
+From the head of the bay the road cuts down to the Magellan Straits
+following along the water to the town. It became more and more lively
+on the road; the number of public houses increased rapidly, and in
+the twilight we rode into Punta Arenas, where our country horses had
+much to think about. We went straight to the Swedish Consulate and
+stopped below its windows. It was some time before people recognized
+the bearded highwaymen. The last act was played out; for the last time
+we unsaddled. “Where do you come from?” people asked us. And as we
+answered “from Lago Nahuelhuapi” they thought we were joking with them.
+But it was true.
+
+The distance from Bariloche to Punta Arenas is 1358 miles, covered
+in fifty-six march-days, which gives a daily average of 24·25 miles.
+Counting excursions the total distance amounts to 1640 miles.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX
+
+THE BEAGLE CHANNEL
+
+
+In Punta Arenas everything looked the same. Times were still bad though
+somewhat better than in the preceding winter when paper money was worth
+nothing--the peso was then down to sevenpence instead of eighteen; now
+it varied between nine and ten. The great fluctuation in the value of
+Chilean money is of course a great drawback to commercial development;
+one never knows from day to day how much one has, and the first look in
+the morning paper is at “el cambio,” printed on the first page in large
+type. Not a few persons speculate in money, and more than one fortune
+has been made only by buying and selling notes. I believe the market
+has become more steady now.
+
+[Illustration: THE BEAGLE CHANNEL LOOKING WEST.]
+
+[Illustration: USHUAIA AND MARTIAL MOUNTAINS.]
+
+[Illustration: GLACIER IN N.W. ARM OF BEAGLE CHANNEL.]
+
+Long in advance we had made preparations for our last expedition, the
+visit to the Beagle Channel. “El apostadero naval,” the naval station,
+had a new chief, for Mr. Rojas had been pensioned and was succeeded
+by Rear-Admiral F. Valenzuela. He had got orders from Valparaiso and
+received us with great kindness, offering us the small but convenient
+steamer _Porvenir_ for the trip. The Government had purchased it during
+the winter, when, owing to the bad times, more than one Punta Arenas
+ship changed owner. The officers started at once to equip the vessel.
+
+The town was in a state of rejoicing. It was a carnival time and
+festive processions passed through the windy streets, but I think it
+was a hard job to raise carnival-spirits on the shores of Magellan
+Straits. Dancing saloons had been rigged up for the occasion, and were
+filled all night long. We had no time, however, for things of that
+sort. We had to go through all the luggage sent from Puerto Montt in
+October; another equipment had to be got together and I was running
+all day long between the ports, the telegraph-office and the Argentine
+consulate to arrange an important piece of business, the transport of
+ourselves and our luggage from Punta Arenas to Buenos Aires. There is
+regular communication between the latter place and Ushuaia. One of
+the steamers, however, had just run ashore on the Atlantic coast, the
+other, _Primero de Mayo_, had just passed on her way south, and the
+Argentine Consul, Mr. Margueirat, told us that her commander had orders
+to take us on board if this would suit us. But she ought to be back in
+Punta Arenas long before we had finished our exploration in the Beagle
+Channel and we had to leave without knowing anything for certain. I
+wired to Buenos Aires asking if there would be any other possible ship
+besides the _Primero de Mayo_, but could not wait for the answer.
+
+The summer had been uncommonly dry, it was difficult to get water, and
+not until March 3 did the _Porvenir_ get her supply. In the evening we
+went on board, and before sunrise were under way towards the Magdalena
+Channel. The commander was Mr. P. Acevedo, captain in the navy, an able
+officer and good companion. In a short time we got into the familiar
+old fog again. It is said in the tale of creation, that the water in
+the air was separated from the water on the earth but in the west of
+Tierra del Fuego one is inclined to believe that the separation never
+was completed, so difficult is it to see where the sea ends and the
+sky begins. On clear days the magnificent Mt. Sarmiento, the highest
+peak in Tierra del Fuego, shines like a gigantic beacon visible far
+north of Punta Arenas on Elisabeth Island at a distance of ninety-six
+nautical miles. We anchored the first night in Puerto Barrow, and
+found time to go on shore; I had never visited this part of Tierra del
+Fuego before. At dawn we weighed anchor. The weather was not nice, but
+not bad, and in any case good enough to clear the sometimes critical
+passage round the Brecknock peninsula. For a while one gets a broadside
+from the Pacific, which for a small steamer may be dangerous. We had
+vivid recollections of the Swedish expedition in 1896, whose journey
+in the _Condor_ was nearly disastrous owing as far as I can gather to
+the carelessness or ignorance of the officers. The open passage with
+its black, storm-beaten rocks and reefs produces a terrifying and
+desolate impression. The whole business only lasted a couple of hours
+and then we came into smooth water again. We had just entered the
+Brecknock Sound, when we met the _Primero de Mayo_ on her way to Punta
+Arenas--far too early for us; we saluted her with the flag, continued
+through Whaleboat Sound and anchored in Puerto Fortuna on the north
+coast of Londonderry Island.
+
+We had heard much of the beauty of the Western Beagle Channel; but
+it almost surpassed our expectations. It is mainly the same sort of
+country as we had seen before with steep shores covered with evergreen
+forests or bogs and with snow-clad crests and summits. But down here
+a new and important feature is added, the glaciers. In the Patagonian
+Channels it is only in the inlets penetrating into the main range
+of the Andes that the glaciers come down into the sea. But in the
+west part of the Beagle Channel nearly every valley is occupied by a
+blue stream of ice coming down through the forest and causing that
+contrast between the eternal ice and eternal green extolled by Darwin
+and all travellers after him. Not only are the larger valleys that
+run down into the sea thus ice-filled but any small depression on a
+mountain-side has become a refuge for a wee tongue of ice.
+
+As we wanted to see a little more of the glaciers we went into a bay
+called Glacier Sound. Probably no ship was ever in here, for the
+depth was unknown. We sounded, but the water suddenly shallowed so
+that we ran aground on the loose clay. Of course we got off again.
+Unfortunately the way to the glacier was barred by closely packed
+drift-ice, so we soon left the place and went to spend the night in
+Romanche Bay. We had now reached the most magnificent part of the
+Beagle Channel, the Northwest Arm, where glacier follows upon glacier.
+Opposite Romanche Bay there is one especially worthy of attention. Blue
+as only ice can be, it floats out over the mountain ledge, sending
+a vertical tongue down into the water; from the edge higher up the
+river rushes out of its vault, at once forming a waterfall playing with
+the miniature ice-floes. The conditions at the Darwin glacier further
+east were very favourable, making it easy to study the moraines as
+well as the vegetation round the ice border. Nature itself had come
+to our help. The ice does not extend down to the water, but ends in
+the forest. Some years ago the river changed its course owing to some
+accidental damming-up; the obstacle disappearing, it returned to its
+old bed again and left the new one free of access. It formed quite a
+natural road across the forest and we could walk up to the ice very
+comfortably. The distance from the ice-border to the first stunted
+trees is about ten feet.
+
+After a short visit to Yendagaia, we anchored in Lapataia, a place
+well known to me, where I had spent some time with Dr. K. Andersson in
+1902. The saw-mill was still there, but the old manager had gone long
+ago. It was Sunday and work was stopped, but we met the new boss and
+asked him to lend us a boat, for Quensel and I intended to pull across
+Lago Acigami or Roca, as the lake north of Lapataia is called. We saw
+at once that he was a stranger in the country, and we chose English to
+speak with him; however Quensel and I exchanged some remarks in Swedish
+and at once he joined in telling us that he also was a Swede, by name
+Lundberg. Another Scandinavian, a Norwegian, also worked in the small
+saw-mill.
+
+The next morning we pulled up a rapid stream, the outlet of Lago
+Acigami. Without warning one is out on the bosom of the lake, hitherto
+hidden behind dense foliage. The eastern shore slopes gradually and is
+covered with dense forests down to the water, into which the trees dip
+their branches. The western shore is very different, rising abruptly
+like an immense wall of stone with snow-patches in all crevices to a
+very considerable height; the highest peaks, nearly 4000 feet, cast
+their dark shadow over the whole lake. It was rather strange after an
+absence of six and a half years to plough the waters of Lago Acigami
+once more--once more to catch sight of the pretty points where we
+rested upon the oars to breathe. Probably I shall not come back for the
+third time....
+
+The boundary between Argentina and Chile crosses this lake, cuts
+straight down to the Beagle Channel, following it to the Atlantic.
+In the morning we started in Argentina and landed in Chile at the
+other end of the lake. Here we had a hasty meal, standing, or even
+running about to get clear of the innumerable mosquitoes. The
+Acigami-depression is continued by a broad valley of exactly the same
+nature as the Betbeder Valley, traversed by a river. The bottom is
+impassable on account of the swamps and we worked our way through
+the forest alongside it till we reached a point from where we could
+overlook the neighbourhood. We made out that we were in the Rojas
+Valley, whose river we had discovered the previous year, and thus had
+reached our goal. The same night we were back on board.
+
+To judge from the big mussel-banks Lapataia was once a main resort
+for the Yahgan tribe. Halle made some excavations and found some
+bone-prickers.
+
+The next day we continued eastward. We saw Ushuaia at some distance,
+but left it behind and went into the passage between the Navarin and
+Hoste Islands, the Murray Narrows. We knew that the English mission
+station formerly installed in Tekenika Bay had been moved to a place
+opposite this, and found it in Douglas Bay. There is no shelter here
+from the prevailing wind, but otherwise Nature is prettier than in the
+old place. A heavy sea was running, but soon a small yawl came from
+the station pulled by two Indians and in the person in the stern I
+recognized the English missionary, Mr. Williams, whose acquaintance I
+had made in Tekenika in 1902. He was greatly astonished at seeing one
+of the fellows from the _Antarctic_ once more. We followed him ashore.
+What an agreeable contrast between this place and Dawson Island.
+Here the last remnants of the Yahgan tribe are collected, numbering
+a hundred and seventy. Is it possible that only seventy-five years
+ago their fires blazed all along the Beagle Channel and round the
+archipelago of Cape Horn? They have been extinguished for ever. But
+before all the Yahgans gathered on the stations the French Cape Horn
+expedition spent one year in Orange Bay; quite a colony of Indians
+stayed with them and were studied from every point of view. I must
+also mention the valuable observations on their habits and language
+made by the late Thomas Bridges of Ushuaia, through which we possess
+a fairly complete account of this people. In Douglas Bay they are
+very well treated and get permission to make long excursions hunting
+and fishing. Mr. Williams is a practical man, whose enthusiasm for
+preaching the gospel has not led him astray, and the Indians seem to
+have confidence in him. He speaks their language fluently--well, this
+might be considered a matter of course, though the Salesian padre on
+Dawson Island hardly knew a word of it. We had to leave Mr. Williams’
+pleasant home helter-skelter--for suddenly a south-west gale came on
+and it was all we could do to get back on board. We had to weigh anchor
+at once and seek shelter under Hoste Island, where we anchored in Allen
+Gardiner Bay, on the same spot where the lamented _Antarctic_ lay in
+1902. There were hardly any traces of the mission station, for all the
+houses had been moved to the new place.
+
+Here Halle had an important task to fulfil. Dr. J. G. Anderson had
+found fossilized wood and shells embedded before the folding of the
+Fuegian Cordillera took place; thus an investigation of the fossils
+would give certain indications as to the age of the mountain chain.
+The collections were lost in the _Antarctic_, and we had come there
+to get new ones. Halle was left there with a tent, a boat, provisions
+and two men. We on the _Porvenir_ went south. We were interested to
+visit the old station in Orange Bay; the commemorative pyramid with
+its marble plates was left intact and a few steps from there was one
+of the pillars of the magnetical observatory. At night two boats of
+Indians came; they asked us to take them to the Wollaston Islands. They
+were abundantly supplied with provisions, flour, sugar, &c., and had
+also brought a rifle. We went there the next morning. The southernmost
+of these Islands is Hoorn Island with the famous cape. The forest is
+limited to small groves and thickets and the vegetation much reminded
+me of what I had seen in certain places on the West Falklands. We
+only landed at two places and then crossed again to Packsaddle Bay,
+as Quensel wanted to study some of the localities where the French
+expedition had been. When we came back to Tekenina we found that Halle
+had got comrades, several Yahgans, who had made a hut of sticks and
+bundles of grass. They were on their way to the mission, but could not
+help stopping, curious to see what the white men were doing. One of the
+sailors from the _Porvenir_ had shown a rifle to them, which made them
+come to Halle assuring him of their exceptionally friendly sentiments.
+He was pleased with his results, and in the afternoon of March 13 we
+went to Ushuaia. The capital of Tierra del Fuego has a very pretty
+situation on the channel at the foot of the Martial Mountains and
+everywhere surrounded by roble forests. The harbour is formed by the
+woodless peninsula, where the houses that once belonged to Mr. Thomas
+Bridges’ mission station are still left.
+
+Ushuaia is of importance as the Argentine deportation-station. When I
+was here in 1902 the deported were just building a new prison, which
+was finished now long ago. The chief, Major Herrera, came on board and
+welcomed us in the name of the Governor; he and the judge were the
+only officials left, for all the rest had gone to Buenos Aires in the
+_Primero de Mayo_.
+
+During the seven years that had gone by since my first visit the place
+had been greatly developed. A new street behind the strand “Avenue”
+and several buildings, above all a new police station, had been added,
+but the Government House looked as shabby as ever and the jetty was
+even more ramshackle than before. Street lamps and policemen had
+increased in number and my old friends looked well and had grown fat,
+which proves that the prison gives sustenance also to its employees.
+It was indeed funny now and then to meet a face, half forgotten in the
+mists of past years. Naturally there was a very hearty welcome, and we
+gathered in Club Ushuaia--another step towards culture--and drank a
+toast to the merry and unexpected encounter.
+
+We had not much to do here, but I wanted to return to a place where I
+made some fine collections in 1902, and Halle went to look for ancient
+shore-lines, indicating a post-glacial upheaval of the land. Nature in
+this part of the Beagle Channel is rather different from that further
+west. The total amount of rainfall is much smaller and the evergreen
+beach has nearly disappeared altogether. The mountains get lower, the
+Martial range is the last prominent part, where a miniature glacier may
+be found at a great height; the highest summit, Mt. Olivia, 4350 feet,
+attracts attention through its peculiar form. We made an excursion to
+a little stream coming from the foot of this mountain; in the forest
+it forms a small waterfall; round it grow some fine evergreen beeches
+and there is an uncommonly rich cryptogamic vegetation. But then we had
+no reason to stop in Ushuaia, so we continued on the 15th under loud
+protests from the inhabitants who wanted to keep us there.
+
+We stopped some hours outside Gable Island, where Halle went on shore
+to collect quaternary fossils in the barrancas; the material gathered
+by J. G. Andersson had shared the fate of the Tekenika collections. We
+anchored in Harberton Harbour, where once more I found myself among
+old friends. Harberton is the only important farm on the Channel. When
+Argentina founded Ushuaia the English mission pined away, and when
+Thomas Bridges left his place, the Government gave him a piece of land
+at Harberton, where he and his sons have created a model establishment
+evoking the admiration of every visitor. Old Bridges had long been dead
+and only his son Willie was left in Harberton; his brothers had moved
+to a new farm on the Atlantic Coast, to which they had made a road past
+Lago Fagnano. In 1902 we saw many Ona Indians in Harberton; now only
+a few were there, as most of them had gone to the new farm, which is
+developing rapidly; soon it will be possible to keep a stock of 100,000
+sheep there.
+
+A few years ago the Onas were the absolute masters of Tierra del Fuego,
+where they had vast hunting-grounds. Most certainly they are a branch
+of the Tehuelche people--but prolonged isolation and the lack of boats
+in which to cross the Straits have gradually changed their habits and
+language. Their tall forms and good-looking faces remind one much of
+the Tehuelches of Patagonia.
+
+If we consider how much this people has been in contact with white men,
+it is strange that they have not been properly studied until recent
+years. The Salesian mission has a station at Rio Grande, but there are
+very few Indians. Some live on Dawson Island, some families live in
+the forest north of Lago Fagnano, but the rest are probably scattered
+over the land south of Rio Grande. Not a few work on Bridges’ farm. We
+were told that Modesto who went with J. G. Andersson to Lago Fagnano
+and then with both of us to Gable Island had been promoted “Capataz” of
+the carts. Also Anikin was alive and lived as shepherd out in the camp.
+The brothers Bridges never put any constraint upon the natives. They
+simply received them, gave them work and of course tried to eradicate
+bad customs, but never kept them against their will or tried to convert
+them. The result has been mutual satisfaction. Messrs. Bridges had
+cheap labourers and the natives felt happy with some regular work.
+Their number is said to be slowly increasing at present--a glorious
+exception to the rule.
+
+Originally we intended to spend much more time in Tierra del Fuego
+studying the Indians. But we had been informed that the well-known
+anthropologist and ethnographer, Professor Lehmann-Nietsche of La
+Plata, had made extensive studies and Mr. Bridges told me that an
+American, Mr. Furlong, had visited him and made observations on the
+natives. Thus we had reason to shorten our stay in these parts.
+
+Among the interesting information I got from Mr. Bridges there is one
+thing especially worthy of notice. This was the story of a fourth
+Indian tribe, hitherto not known to me. It was called _Hush_, and
+lived along the Straits of Le Maire. Probably it was a branch of
+the Ona people, perhaps originally a mixture of Ona and Yahgan, but
+had a language different from either of theirs and lived mainly on
+shell-fish and seal, wandering along the beach. Canoes were not used.
+There is no pure Hush left. In Harberton I saw an old man looking
+more like a Yahgan; his mother was of the Yahgan tribe. He had been
+married to a Hush woman, the last of her race, and was a widower; he
+had two unmarried daughters. They are the last of a small people that
+disappears without leaving any traces behind. We know nothing of their
+habits or of their language. Probably the Fuegians Darwin found in Good
+Success Bay belonged to this people.
+
+We left Quensel in Harberton and continued east in spite of a falling
+barometer in order to try a landing in Slogget Bay. This place also
+had been visited by J. G. Andersson and is of importance for the
+determination of the age of the Cordillera. After having passed the
+woody Picton Island, we came out into open water. We got a gale of
+wind, and turned back to land on Picton, but had not gone far before
+the weather looked better again, so we started to run our old course.
+Slogget Bay is quite open to winds from south and east which often
+make landing impossible. Inside the point we saw a good landing-place,
+where two men soon appeared. We hurriedly got hold of some necessary
+things and rowed on shore. The two fellows were the only people left
+of the gold-digging company; one of them was in charge of the place
+and invited us to come to his house. We had an hour’s hard walk along
+the broken rocks covered by decaying seaweed, spreading a nauseous
+smell. The establishment looked very imposing: numerous buildings in
+two lines; near the mouth of a stream stood a large dredge; but no
+work was going on. The men were left to look after the place and keep
+the machinery from rusting. Still they did not know if the company was
+going to continue the work or not.
+
+Gold has been found in many places in Tierra del Fuego. Nearly all
+rivers carry some though only in small quantities; and in several
+places in the loose coastal barranca the precious metal has been found.
+At such places at first very rich finds were made, but no one thought
+that these might be the result of the sea’s carrying down and washing
+the sand for thousands of years and thus would not believe that after
+the first rich harvest had been gathered, it would become much more
+difficult to get anything. The gold fever broke out, hundreds of people
+hastened there. In the parts where we were just now it was Slogget Bay
+and Lennox Island that attracted special attention. The gold deposits
+had been discovered by a certain engineer, Popper, famous in the
+history of Tierra del Fuego, a real _conquistador_ on a small scale.
+At first people washed by hand and the yield was good. But the future
+was not quite so golden. One company after the other was formed and
+expensive machinery purchased. This was the end of it all; the best
+finds had already been made and worked and the result was not even
+sufficient to pay the expenses. How many companies were formed I do not
+know, but in Punta Arenas alone there were thirty. During our visit
+to Patagonia the newspapers almost every day contained the report of
+some “Sociedad aurifera” winding-up--only in name was it “aurifera.”
+When we left Punta Arenas to go home people had still some belief in
+the establishment of Lennox Island, and the descriptions we got from
+some shareholders sounded very promising. One thing we understood that
+quite as much money had been spent in fine dwelling-houses, electric
+light, hot and cold water in all bedrooms, &c.--as in Cutter Cove,
+which I am not inclined to consider a good omen for the future. The man
+in charge of Slogget, Mr. Dafonte, could tell beautiful stories of the
+administration of that company.
+
+We started at once to look for the fossiliferous deposits, which
+we found just east of the bay, near a solitary rock rising like a
+fantastic obelisk out of the water some fifty yards from the shore.
+It is very narrow at the base and gradually widens upwards. There is
+a marine flora the like of which I had not seen since we were on the
+Falklands, and I secured a very rich harvest. Both Halle and I were
+very pleased with our visit, and I am sure that Mr. Dafonte enjoyed
+the change offered by strangers’ company. We returned to Harberton on
+the 17th to fetch Quensel and spend the night there. How comfortable I
+found myself in this truly English family! The conversation was about
+old times, when the old _Antarctic_ was at anchor in the bay, and I had
+to tell all I knew about my comrades and promise to convey greetings to
+them all. I said good-bye to Harberton with great regret, and it would
+be a matter of great satisfaction to go there again.
+
+In order to return the kindness of the Argentiners we went to Ushuaia
+and gave a dinner on board. The best of spirits prevailed in spite of
+the dispute between the two republics over the boundary farthest south,
+not settled by the Award. The Argentine experts had found out that the
+Beagle Channel as a boundary was all right, but the question was: where
+does the channel go to the extreme east? north or south of the Picton
+and New Islands? They insist that it goes south of these islands which
+should thus belong to Argentina.
+
+When we left Ushuaia we had the most lovely weather, bringing out
+all the splendours of the Northwest Arm. Even Halle who is a great
+enthusiast for the Pampas expressed his admiration. The last night was
+spent in Puerto Edwards, a typical Fuegian cove on the south coast of
+the Brecknock peninsula. Without any adventure we rounded it, cast a
+last glance on the channel scenery that had become so familiar to us,
+and for the last time beheld the menacing silhouette of Cape Froward.
+Late in the evening, on March 20, we were back again in Punta Arenas.
+
+Again I had to find out means of getting to Buenos Aires in the
+cheapest manner possible with all our bulky luggage. I went to the
+Argentine Consul, who told me that he had just purchased a steamer
+for his Government, and after some time it would proceed to Buenos
+Aires to be delivered to the authorities. I wired to the Minister of
+Marine and got his permission to use the steamer. But all this would
+have been quite unnecessary had I only got the telegrams waiting for
+me on my arrival. I got them the next day. There was an answer from
+the Argentine Government saying that, as there was no steamer running
+from Punta Arenas, cabins on the first Kosmos steamer passing were put
+gratuitously at our disposal. Of course we were very grateful for this
+new proof of Argentine generosity. Our luggage was brought up by the
+above-mentioned steamer, which carried nothing else.
+
+On the 25th we went on board the fine steamer, the _Thessalia_, and
+in the most agreeable weather and company we left Punta Arenas for
+good, the town of iron-houses, gramophones and cocktails, but also of
+strenuous work and commercial industry. It was not without regret we
+saw it disappear. How much friendship, sympathy and assistance had we
+not met with there. To the very last moment the Consul, Mr. Manns,
+whose home was always open to us, helped us in every way, and thanks to
+him and all the others, too numerous to mention, we could look back on
+a Magellanic Expedition brought to a happy end. On the 30th we arrived
+in Montevideo, where the Consul, Mr. Rogberg, came on board to welcome
+us and took us round the town once more. The next morning we were in
+Buenos Aires.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Already before we left Sweden Halle had made up a scheme to visit Rio
+Grande do Sul in Brazil before going back, in order to study certain
+deposits belonging to the _Glossopteris_-series that had been the
+object of his special attention during the journey.
+
+[Illustration: PANORAMA SOUTH-WEST SIDE OF LAKE ACIGAMI. TIERRA DEL
+FUEGO.]
+
+[Illustration: “THE WINTER’S BARK.” TIERRA DEL FUEGO.]
+
+I had planned another trip for Quensel and myself, a voyage to South
+Georgia, the remote island on the verge of the Antarctic Sea. I knew
+this island well enough, but had important reasons for a second visit,
+and Quensel very much wanted to see this supposed outpost of the
+Andes. Anyhow, it is closely connected with the region we had just left.
+
+When in December 1903 the members of the _Antarctic_ Expedition
+returned to Buenos Aires, rescued by the Argentine ship, the _Uruguay_,
+Captain Larsen who had got news of the Norwegian law against whaling
+was able to interest some people there to make a try south and later
+the “Compañia Argentina de Pesca” started. With the permission of Great
+Britain the company built a station on South Georgia and commenced
+work in 1905. We had generously been granted passages on one of the
+company’s vessels. The s.s. _Cachalote_ was ready to sail when we came
+to Buenos Aires, and on April 2 we again left the metropolis of South
+America and the civilized world.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX
+
+A WINTER TRIP TO SOUTH GEORGIA
+
+
+Again we are alone with sky and sea. The future looks bright, we lie
+flat on the deck in the sun enjoying our siesta, a company of five,
+we two, Captain Esbensen, his wife and brother-in-law, all three
+Norwegians.
+
+Like the quiet flow of a river the first days went by. Then, suddenly
+the engines stopped. There was much wondering and asking of questions.
+We had certainly noticed that they had begun to make some unusual
+noise, but did not think much of it. A closer investigation supplied no
+explanation; they were set going again, but the noise increased more
+and more. Again they were taken to pieces, but it was impossible to
+discover whence the mysterious sound could proceed. By a mere chance
+the fault was found. One of the cranks was loose on the shaft and we
+could not continue until such a serious fault had been put right. The
+engineers shook their heads and set to work without delay. Disabled,
+we lay adrift, but the weather kept fine. Far off a full-rigged vessel
+passed at a good speed--how we did envy her! Two bolts from opposite
+sides were driven through the crank and into the shaft, but this work
+which took a whole day proved futile. The engine worked silently some
+few minutes, then the bolts were driven out by the rotation and we had
+to stop again. A new dodge was tried; a bolt of steel being driven
+right through crank and shaft and clenched at both ends. The weather
+had changed and we knew that we had gone south. The north-west wind
+was blowing very fresh; there was a high sea running and we might get
+a gale at any moment. On deck the crew was busy rigging yards on the
+short masts and making sails out of old tarpaulins so that we might
+get some way on the boat. Those who had nothing to do fished for
+albatrosses with a hook baited with a piece of meat. The repairs took
+a day and a half, but the bolt, one inch in diameter, held for one
+night only and then was literally cut into three pieces. There was now
+only the slight hope left that we could make a still thicker bolt and
+also replace the axle-journal, filling in the semicircular notches in
+crank and shaft, with a new one. If this did not hold, we could do
+nothing more. We could not get enough sail on to steer against wind and
+sea. Where would currents and waves bear us? Certainly not to South
+Georgia--we were already making jokes about our visit to Cape Town or
+to Australia. But long before that the sea would probably smash up the
+ship and drown us all!
+
+Eager expectation could be read in all faces when the engines were once
+more set going. We were already at April 10 and ought to have been at
+our destination. Every five minutes we went to listen but no strange
+tunes were heard.
+
+The storm came. Long enough had it threatened us. It was Easter Eve;
+and we took turns in balancing a big tureen in which the eggs for the
+traditional toddy were beaten up. Why should we abandon a good custom
+merely because of being on board a sick ship in the South Atlantic? The
+night was very uncomfortable. Our berths were situated just above the
+screw, which was revolving more in the air than in the water, and it
+was only because I was used to things of that sort that I was able to
+sleep. In the morning our yard hung naked, for the wind had robbed us
+of four of our five small sails. More than ever was it necessary that
+the engine should hold, and we did not venture to go at more than half
+speed. It felt like being on slippery ice and our anxiety increased
+when the fog came and with it the fear of icebergs, which according to
+the captain’s experiences might turn up at any moment.
+
+[Illustration: THE NORWEGIAN FACTORY, SOUTH GEORGIA.]
+
+[Illustration: SKOTTSBERG. LARSEN. ANDERSSON.
+
+A MEETING IN SOUTH GEORGIA.]
+
+Again the engines started to be noisy, the above-mentioned axle-journal
+threatened to creep out of position and had repeatedly to be driven
+in again. Should we reach our destination? Finally, on the 15th,
+the island came in sight. We had longed for it as if it were the
+Promised Land itself, and there it lay, the lonely isle, shining
+white, shimmering through the grey fogs! It proved impossible to reach
+Cumberland Bay the same day and we had to spend another pitch-dark
+night on an angry sea and with a wretched on-shore wind. The fear of
+drifting ashore made us work out from the coast, which soon disappeared
+in a blinding snow-storm. The easterly wind died, but we got a gale
+from the north-west instead, and in the morning made the pleasant
+discovery that we had driven past Cumberland Bay. We also understood
+by our course that we had passed across the dangerous Nansen-reef,
+where the _Fridtjof Nansen_ struck some years ago and went down
+like a stone, nine people losing their lives. A mere chance had saved
+us from sharing their fate. The wind was too stormy to permit of our
+beating up against it, and not until the next day did we see land
+again. The points grew familiar to me, and in bright sunshine we
+passed Mt. Duse and turned into the cove. It was seven years since--I
+remembered a virgin Pot Harbour with luxuriant tussock-grass and
+roaring sea-elephants. There is the point where we found the big pots
+and the old boat; a small observatory now stands there. Now the harbour
+lies quite open to the eyes. A strong smell of whale-oil mingles with
+the stink of the numerous carcasses on the shore where thousands of
+screaming gulls and cape-pigeons have an everlasting feast. Some
+buildings are seen on the shore at the foot of an abrupt mountain-wall;
+they are half hidden by boats, coal-heaps and oil-barrels; people are
+running to and fro, funnels smoke, a whistle gives a hoarse prolonged
+note----
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+South Georgia which is of about the size of the Swedish Island Gotland,
+extends between 54° and 55° S. lat. and 36° and 38° W. long. A look at
+a map of the world readily suggests the idea that the island is part of
+a sunken mountain-fold, running from the Andes over South Georgia, the
+South Sandwiches and Orkneys, to Graham Land. The geological survey to
+a certain degree confirms this opinion, but the great depths between
+the different links in this broken chain are difficult to explain.
+
+South Georgia is a much folded steep mountain-ridge, running north-west
+to south-east and cut by deep inlets on both sides. Its height probably
+exceeds 6500 feet though only very few summits have been measured
+with exactitude. The impression of the island is wild, but grand: the
+mountains are very steep, the summits sometimes have a rather fantastic
+shape and everywhere eternal ice and snow stand out against the black
+slates. The interior is more or less covered by a mantle of ice, the
+flap of which hangs down into the valleys, often reaching the water in
+the innermost corner of an inlet. Their mouths are the oases in South
+Georgia, where the plant-world thrives and animals have found means of
+existence.
+
+It cannot be expected that a land with the nature of South Georgia
+should have a mild climate. The variations in temperature are very
+slight; in the summer it is some centigrades above, in the winter
+some centigrades below zero--the average being a little lower than in
+the Falklands--and unsettled weather is the most prominent climatic
+feature here also, for the sunshine may be interrupted by a snow-storm,
+regardless of whether it is summer or winter. The strong south-westerly
+gales are terrible, nor are the local hurricanes less terrifying,
+rushing down the glaciers almost without a warning and threshing the
+water into a thick white smoke looking like fog at a distance. The
+annual fall of snow and rain is large. During the winter snow mostly
+falls, sometimes forming a continuous covering thick enough to hide
+even the tussock-grass. This is the same fine plant that we met with in
+the Falklands, but in South Georgia it everywhere puts its mark on the
+coastal region; on the shingles there is a nice and uniform covering,
+but on the steep slopes it grows patchwise and shows great gaps where
+it looks as if it had slid down and landed in disorder on the debris
+below. The tussock-grass must take the place of both trees and bushes
+in South Georgia. It ends rather suddenly inland and is replaced by a
+scanty meadow-or grass-tundra, where some insignificant flowers are
+also seen. The cryptogamic plants play a more prominent part and are
+of great interest, as many of them have only been found here. South
+Georgia is the Juan Fernandez of mosses.
+
+The flora of the sea is also very remarkable and indeed it was this
+that made me undertake a second expedition to the remote island. Most
+people are more attracted by animal life. The place of honour is held
+by the sea-elephant (_Macrorhinus leoninus_). It is the largest seal
+living, a plump, yellow-brown creature anything up to twenty feet long;
+only the old males reach this length, the females being much smaller
+and more slender. The name refers to the faculty of the male of blowing
+his nose into a short trunk when angry. This remarkable animal, of
+a distinctly ancient type, is confined to some islands in the south
+and has greatly decreased in number. It will probably prove necessary
+for the English authorities to forbid hunting him on South Georgia. I
+was told that American sealers do a good deal of poaching on the west
+side of the island. Other kinds of seals are also found, especially
+the sea-leopard (_Ogmorhinus leptonyx_); but the southern fur-seal
+(_Arctocephalus australis_) seems to be extinct here. Bird life is
+abundant. Most of the species are oceanic; cape-pigeons and petrels
+have their nests round the black peaks, and on small “tussock-islands”
+the largest bird of the oceans, the big albatross (_Diomedea exulans_)
+breeds. Two species of penguins have small rookeries, amongst them the
+king-penguin, hardly less magnificent than his imperial cousin of the
+Antarctic. But one is still more attracted by the small land-birds, the
+edible teal duck (_Querquedula Eatoni_) and the small titlark (_Anthus
+antarcticus_), remarkably enough endemic in the island, merrily hopping
+about round the streams.
+
+In a short while we were moored alongside the quay. Larsen’s stout
+figure appeared; I had heard that after his visit to the South Sandwich
+Islands, he had been taken seriously ill. Now he looked himself again,
+and we slapped each other’s backs properly. In the dwelling-house
+another old acquaintance received me, the cook of the _Antarctic_,
+Axel Andersson, who stayed in his kitchen, day in and day out, during
+the long severe winter on Paulet Island in biting cold, half choked by
+the nauseous smoke from the blubber. A remarkable encounter indeed;
+three old comrades re-united after seven years on one of the places
+where they had camped together. The place had changed more than we; I
+hardly knew Pot Harbour with its shores spoilt and its air polluted.
+With great satisfaction we found the low land to be free of snow, and
+the first excursion gave good results. Judge of our surprise when the
+winter suddenly arrived! It snowed day and night, and did not stop
+until the ground was covered by snow, two feet deep, under which the
+plants remained out of reach. We comforted ourselves with the fervent
+hope that the snow would melt within a few days, and I started to work
+on the seaweeds, for here the snow could not hinder me. The results
+obtained gave me reason to be contented with the journey, in spite
+of the prophecy of mild weather never coming true, for it was not a
+passing snow-storm, but the long winter that had come in earnest. It is
+obvious that Quensel could hardly make any geological observations, but
+there was no help for it. Our good luck had at last abandoned us.
+
+Larsen was kind enough to put a steamer, originally purchased to tow
+whales with, at our disposal for a trip round the fiords, but we put
+it off as long as we could hope to get suitable weather. Waiting,
+however, seemed hopeless and we set out. On April 24 the _Undine_ left
+Pot Harbour--seven years earlier, also in Cumberland Bay the Swedish
+Antarctic Expedition had celebrated the deed of the _Vega_. It was the
+first fine day since our arrival. The island lay there, radiant in all
+its Antarctic beauty, with every summit clear and sharp. We steered
+out to the sea and then followed the coast for some distance, making
+a visit to the so-called Strömnaes fiord. There were three whaling
+steamers belonging to a Tönsberg Company, laid up for the winter.
+Larsen’s company was all but alone on the island at that date, and the
+only one with a land station by means of which it is possible to make
+far more out of the whales than by floating boilers. They all come
+from Norway to spend the favourable season. According to Larsen there
+is already to be noticed a certain decrease in the number of whales,
+and by-and-by the Governor of the Falklands will have to regulate the
+whaling in some manner or the Colony will lose an important part of its
+income. Whalers have now reached the Antarctic Islands also and there
+are stations on the South Orkneys and also on Deception Island, the
+famous old crater.
+
+We continued north along the coast, passed the entrances of several
+fiords and entered the Bay of Isles. The fine weather was gone again,
+an easterly gale and snow and fog came after us at a gallop, and we
+anchored at the very last moment before an impenetrable mist had hidden
+land and water from us. Had not Captain Angell been so familiar with
+all corners here, the night would have been rather unpleasant. The
+_Undine_, which is built on very elegant lines and makes good speed,
+was once Queen Victoria of England’s pleasure-yacht; in her declining
+years she still bears evidence of having seen better days. The large
+saloons and cabins with their real mahogany fittings tell us that we
+are not on board a common tug.
+
+The bad weather continued, but we were able to spend the next day on
+shore. At night the wind increased, and in the morning we had terrible
+weather with a mixture of rain, snow, and hail. However, we resolved to
+set out and came out in the heavy sea round Cape Buller. Just before
+nightfall we ran into a shallow bay, called by the Norwegian whalers
+Rightwhale Cove. The wind grew more and more squally, a menacing bank
+of leaden clouds gathered in a westerly direction and the night was
+indeed anything but pleasant. We had two anchors out and the engines
+ready, but every now and then the captain went on deck to have a look
+at the situation, for the hurricane was so terrible and the strains
+on the chains so violent, that every moment we expected to see them
+break. In the morning the same conditions prevailed, and it was hardly
+possible to stand on deck. Through the white foam we heard the roaring
+of the sea-elephants in the tussock, but could not see them nor get the
+least glimpse of land, in spite of being so near. Now and then came
+a sharp and sudden snow-squall. It was a pity that we had not got an
+anemometer; the iron-rail round the bridge was bent by the pressure
+of the canvas, which perhaps gives an idea of the velocity of the
+wind. Down in the saloon we read or played cards and looked at the
+barographer, the index of which jumped a couple of millimetres at a
+time. In the evening the weather improved and we had a tolerably calm
+night. But alas! our time was up; we expected that the _Cachalote_
+would be ready to leave and with sore hearts we had to abandon our
+schemes of visiting the west coast. Settled good weather could not be
+expected, so although another snowstorm came on we left the harbour,
+and made for the station. The fog was so dense that after half an hour
+we had lost every landmark and wondered how we should find our way
+back. Then, as if by magic, the fog lay behind us like a wall and we
+were out in the sunshine. We found ourselves outside Strömnaes Bay and
+were soon back in Pot Harbour.
+
+During our absence the three small steamers had been out fishing and
+got several whales, two of them right whales (_Balaena australis_),
+but once more the cutting-up decks were empty and it looked as if we
+should leave South Georgia without having seen whale-fishing. The
+weather was still miserable and the _Cachalote_ had soon taken in her
+cargo. But then prospects lightened. On the last of April the steamers
+were out again and came back in the night with one right whale and some
+humpbacks, and at once we made up our minds to go with one of them
+as many whales were reported forty miles from the coast. Hurriedly
+we took our oilskins and climbed on board, and the next moment the
+_Karl_ started. She is a modern whaler, built of steel and specially
+constructed for the purpose; in comparison with her size (about 150
+tons), the engines and winches may be described as very powerful. In
+the bows is the short, thick gun; it is loaded, and the point of the
+harpoon, where the shell is, protrudes from the mouth. From there a
+strong hawser goes down into the hull, where innumerable fathoms lie
+neatly coiled ready to run out.
+
+From the mast-head single whales are seen blowing, but it is not
+worth while going after them, if one is sure that there is a school
+further out. Now we catch sight of one of the other steamers. With the
+glasses we see that her line is taut; evidently there is a fish on the
+hook, and soon we are amidst the school. Monsters dive up everywhere,
+swimming in long files, blowing and snorting, a little more of the fat
+shining back is seen, for an instant the “hump” is above water and then
+the beast disappears. They come and go all round, not the least
+disturbed by our presence; the water is thick with their food, small
+crustaceans and other marine organisms, and they are not inclined to
+leave their good feeding-grounds, for they do not understand that the
+“steel-whales” are armed to the teeth and are only waiting for a chance
+to spread death and destruction among them.
+
+[Illustration: HUMPBACK WHALE, UPSIDE DOWN, SOUTH GEORGIA.]
+
+[Illustration: THREE RIGHT WHALES. SOUTH GEORGIA.]
+
+Now we open the ball. The small, bearded “gunner,” who is also captain
+of the ship, takes up his position behind the gun. Three big humpbacks
+come swimming obliquely towards us: “Stop ... hard port ... slow
+ahead!” With a steady hand he sights and fires the gun--shell and
+harpoon are buried in the shining back--a sudden jerk and the rope
+runs out at a tremendous speed! As he dives the whale sends a cloud of
+blood from his nostrils; then a dull report is heard, the shell has
+burst, and soon he rises to the surface dead. As the shot is fired the
+fuse of the shell takes fire and burns, casting the sparks backwards
+for four seconds; then a spark reaches the charge, which instantly
+explodes and kills the whale, if the shot is a good one. Naturally it
+is important that the shell does not explode too early. The animal is
+hauled in under the bows; a chain is fixed round the caudal fin and the
+beast is hauled up to the gunwhale. The rope of the harpoon is cut and
+so are the big wings of the fin, for they would check the ship’s speed
+too much. A mark is put at the edge of the fin indicating that only
+_one_ harpoon has been used; the harpooner sets his private mark, the
+chain is fixed properly, the tail lowered, and we are ready for another
+shot. Meanwhile we have been able to follow the movements of the other
+steamer on the battle-field, and this is not less interesting. They
+have got another whale, but did not manage him and he is swimming at
+quite a fair speed towing the vessel behind him. They disappear in the
+fog, and come out again after a while. The beast has still got strength
+left and, snorting blood, he joins two others and tries to keep up with
+them, but at last tires, is hauled within range and a second harpoon
+finishes him on the spot.
+
+We set to work again and got another whale before dark. With a nice
+fish on each bow we turn back. Both are humpback whales (_Megaptera_);
+we have seen both blue and fin-whales, but were not equipped with
+ropes strong enough to hold them. They are not generally killed by
+one harpoon, but often run out the line to the end and set off at a
+tremendous speed, mad with rage. It sometimes happens that one must cut
+the line after a wild chase of several hours.
+
+The day’s catch is worth about £160, but had we got out sooner the sum
+would have been double. There are days when all the steamers come in
+with four whales each; that means money, and the harpooner has reason
+to be satisfied, too, as for every full-grown humpback he gets ten
+crowns extra; if it is a right whale he puts one hundred crowns in his
+pocket. But a good right whale is worth five or six hundred pounds.
+This species is nearly related to the big Balaena of the north. Its
+great value lies in the baleens which are from six to eight feet long.
+
+Night has come and we must try to find the station. The snow-fog is
+very thick, the moonlight cannot penetrate it. We have two whales to
+tow and progress is slow. Sometimes we lie down on a sofa, trying to
+sleep, but soon curiosity drives us out again to look at the weather.
+It is still snowing, and pitch dark--better to sleep, if we can, in
+spite of the heavy rolling.
+
+I wake up as the engines stop and go out on deck to look. We are close
+on the shore, a mountain wall rises over our heads and all round there
+are masses of kelp. The captain does not know where we are, but after
+a while he realises that we have come too far south. We back out again
+and change our course, old landmarks appear, well-known snow-patches,
+and soon we are back in Pot Harbour which is asleep in the silent
+winter-night. It is 3.30 A.M. when we plunge into the snowdrifts to
+reach the house. Who knows if we should have gone to bed earlier had we
+been in Upsala. Yesterday it was May 1.[1] And a rather original one
+too!
+
+[Footnote 1: At the Swedish universities May 1 is a day of great
+feasting and rejoicing.]
+
+The whales are moored round buoys and jetties. Most of them belly-up,
+showing the long, peculiar furrows. Some are so filled with gases that
+they look like balloons ready to burst. Now comes the slicing and
+stripping. Tail first they are winched up on to the cutting-up stage,
+where some men provided with long-handled knives, are ready to receive
+them. First the curious crustaceans--which live in their houses on
+the whale, profiting from his rich hunting-ground--must be plucked
+off; they are fine large colonies of Balanids, leading a very easy and
+comfortable life. Slice after slice of blubber is cut off, the fat
+round the intestines and the tongue are also taken, as well as the
+gigantic cheek-bones. The meat is edible if not very delicious. The
+blubber is sent to a machine which cuts it into thin slices, and then
+it is carried into the big tanks, where it is boiled down to oil for
+twenty-four hours. The cheekbones are sawn up and put into a closed
+tank, where steam under high pressure is sent in; the water is drawn
+off and the oil collected. The baleens are treated in a special house.
+They are well washed in a small stream, are scraped and brushed, dried,
+polished and packed into bags.
+
+On May 4 the _Cachalote_ was ready--as ready as she could get. The
+engineers had done all they could, but any day the new bolt might
+give, and Larsen dared not send the steamer alone to Buenos Aires, but
+let the _Undine_ accompany her. It was a long journey as we had bad
+weather at first. It was very pleasant to stand on the bridge looking
+at the _Undine_, for she rolled so heavily that we sometimes could see
+the keel. Quensel had not felt very comfortable in the stern of the
+_Cachalote_ and preferred to go by the other steamer, where he got a
+berth amidship, but nothing could make us leave our old vessel with her
+excellent kitchen. The table of the _Undine_ was very simple. One day
+we killed a fat goose and by means of signal-flags the passengers of
+the _Undine_ were invited to come on board and have dinner with us. In
+order to annoy them we also signalled the word “goose.” Come they could
+not, for it was impossible to put a boat off. They answered us very
+impolitely!
+
+After some days the engines began to give trouble and we tried to get
+a hawser on board the _Undine_, but failed owing to the heavy sea.
+She was to tow us when repairing. The next afternoon we repeated the
+experiment with better success. On May 14 land was seen, and the day
+after we were moored in the Boca, one of Buenos Aires suburbs, and I
+dare say all of us felt pleased that the somewhat adventurous passage
+had come to a happy conclusion.
+
+In Buenos Aires we had to wait some time before there was a Swedish
+steamer. Halle came back from his journey; he had not been troubled
+by snow or storm, and was pleased with everything. On May 23 we went
+on board the _Crown Princess Victoria_, belonging to the Johnson
+Line. We had a delightful run and shall always remember the captain,
+Mr. Camp, the officers and crew, with feelings of deep gratitude. It
+was agreeable to get a good rest under a tropical sun after so much
+hard work. But better than anything we had experienced in our various
+travels, was the perfume of the young birch trees from the Scandinavian
+skerries, which came in sight on June 21. On that same day we arrived
+in Christiania, and by different routes the members of the expedition
+hastened to their homes in Sweden.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+  Acevedo, Captain P., 297
+
+  Acigami, Lake, 300;
+    boat excursion on, 301;
+    high summits west of, 301
+
+  Aconcagua, Mount, 132;
+    river journey along, 129
+
+  Adalbert Channel, passing through, 87
+
+  Adam, Mount, ascent of, 21
+
+  Admiralty Inlet, nature of, 38
+
+  Albatross Channel, passing through, 87
+
+  Albatrosses, fishing of, 315
+
+  Alerce, 108
+
+  Allardyce, W. L., ix. 3, 31
+
+  Allen, A. L., x.
+
+  Allen Gardiner Bay, visit to, 303
+
+  _Alm_, steamer, 90
+
+  _Alstrœmeria_, 210
+
+  Ancud, aspect of, 106;
+    cathedral, 108;
+    harbour, 106;
+    plaza, 108;
+    schools, 107
+
+  Andersson, A., 320
+
+  Andersson, J. G., vii. 40, 303, 306, 307, 308
+
+  Andersson, K., 300
+
+  Andrew Sound, visit to, 87
+
+  Anita Channel, narrow passage in, 82
+
+  Antarctic Expedition, 40
+
+  _Anthus antarcticus_, 320
+
+  Antiguos River, adventurous descent to, 216
+
+  Arauco district, geological survey in, 126
+
+  Arauz Bay, seeking refuge in, 74
+
+  _Arctocephalus australis_, 320
+
+  Argentino, Lake, boat excursion on, 272;
+    icebergs, 277;
+    storms, 275, 276
+
+  _Aristotelia magui_, 137
+
+  Armadillo, 209
+
+  Arrayán, 195
+
+  Asado, 43, 169
+
+  Aspero, Mount, ascent of, 235
+
+  _Auchenia huanaco_, 42
+
+  Aysen Valley, 193;
+    excursion to the Pacific, 194;
+    roads, 193, 194
+
+  Azara, Lake, boat excursion on, 234
+
+  _Azara lanceolata_, 195
+
+  Azopardo River, camping at, 39;
+    canvas boat on, 57
+
+  Azopardo Valley, 41
+
+
+  Baguales Mountains, South Patagonia, crossing of, 267
+
+  Baguales Range, Aysen Valley, crossing of, 194
+
+  Bahia del Padre, visit to, 143
+
+  Baker Company, 86
+
+  Baker Inlet, visit to, 86
+
+  Baker, River, crossing of, 239;
+    sources, 225
+
+  _Balæna australis_, 324
+
+  Balanids on whales, 327
+
+  Baleens, treatment of, 328
+
+  Bamboo, 115, 196
+
+  Bariloche, visit to, 162;
+    departure from, 165
+
+  Barrow Cove, visit to, 298
+
+  Bay of Isles, visit to, 322
+
+  Beagle Channel, ancient shore-lines in, 305;
+    glaciers, 299;
+    nature of east part, 305;
+    of west part, 299, 311
+
+  Belgrano, Lake, camping on, 229;
+    boat excursion, 233;
+    nature of, 233;
+    shallow part, 237
+
+  Benney, Messrs., x. 21
+
+  _Berberís buxifolia_, 56;
+    _Darwinii_, 115
+
+  Berthon boats, excursions with, 41, 45, 247
+
+  Bertrand, R., x.
+
+  Betbeder Valley, survey of, 40, 51
+
+  Billing, J., 127
+
+  Bismarck Glacier, remarkable nature of, 273
+
+  Blanco, Mount, 236 (west of Lake Belgrano); 287 (west of Payne)
+
+  _Blechnum magellanicum_, 84
+
+  Boklund, Mr., 133
+
+  Bolus, Mr., x. 25
+
+  Bordes, J., 75, 77, 79, 87
+
+  Brand, Mr., 190
+
+  Brecknock Passage, 298
+
+  Bridges, Th., 302
+
+  Bridges, W., 40, 306
+
+  Brockow, C., 33
+
+  Brookes, Mr., 205
+
+  Brunel, A., 263
+
+  Bueno, Point, 89;
+    Indians in, 84
+
+  Buenos Aires, Lake, visit to, 206;
+    Mount, ascent of, 266
+
+  Buller, Cape, 322
+
+  Burbury, T., 268, 271, 278
+
+
+  Cabeza del Mar, nature of, 295
+
+  _Cachalote_, steamer, 313;
+    damage to, 314
+
+  “Calafate,” 56
+
+  Calbuco, volcano, 158
+
+  Cameron, A., 271
+
+  Camp, V., 329
+
+  _Campsidium chilense_, 99
+
+  “Canelo,” 56
+
+  Cangrejo River, camping at, 260
+
+  _Canis Azaræ_, 279;
+    _falklandicus_, 13
+
+  Caracoles, railway station, 130
+
+  Carbón River, valley of, 243
+
+  _Casma_, steamer, 134
+
+  Castillo farm, visit to, 268
+
+  Castro, appearance and history of, 117
+
+  Cattle, Mr., 265
+
+  Centinela, Mount, 221;
+    valley of, 267
+
+  _Cereus_, 128
+
+  Chacao Channel, 106
+
+  Chaigneau, F., 33
+
+  Chalía River, sources of, 199
+
+  Challenger Expedition, 30
+
+  “Charqui” (dried meat), 111
+
+  Chasm Reach, echo in, 87
+
+  “Chaura,” 56
+
+  “Chicha,” 110
+
+  Chilcas River, camping at, 213
+
+  Chile, central valley of, 128;
+    longitudinal railway, 133;
+    national feast, 132
+
+  Chilean money, fluctuation of, 296
+
+  _Chiliotrichum diffusum_, 245
+
+  Chiloé, bullock-carts, 115;
+    Catholic church, 107;
+    culture of potatoes, 114;
+    excursions on horseback, 111;
+    flamingos, 113;
+    forests, 115;
+    history, 104;
+    life in, 110;
+    nature, 109;
+    oysters, 112;
+    roads, 108, 111, 115;
+    valuable timber, 108;
+    whaling, 112
+
+  Chilotes, character of, 109
+
+  _Chloëphaga_, 28, 44
+
+  Chubut River, crossing of, 175
+
+  _Chusquea colihue_, 115;
+    _quila_, 115
+
+  “Ciruelillo,” 196
+
+  Cisnes Valley, excursion into, 188
+
+  Ciudad de los Césares, 151
+
+  Clarke, Mr., 180
+
+  Cobb, F. E., ix.
+
+  Cochamó Company, 184
+
+  Cochayuyo, 110
+
+  _Colihue_, 115, 196
+
+  Compañía, Argentina de Pesca, 313;
+    comercial y Ganadera Chile-Argentina, 156, 172;
+    industrial del Rio Aysen, 193
+
+  Concepcion, visit to, 126
+
+  Condor, 50, 244
+
+  _Condor_, steamer, 298
+
+  Consuelo Harbour, visit to, 288
+
+  Contreras, Mount, 268
+
+  “Copihue,” 84, 254
+
+  _Corcolén_, 195
+
+  Corcovado Gulf, volcanoes, 113, 122;
+    Mount Corcovado, landing at, 123
+
+  Corintos River, crossing of, 181
+
+  Coronel, visit to, 126
+
+  Corral, visit to, 125
+
+  Cox, G., 153
+
+  Coyaike bajo, visit to, 193
+
+  _Crown Princess Victoria_, steamer, returning on, 329
+
+  _Ctenomys magellanicus_, 189
+
+  Cuarenta Dias Harbour, visit to, 79
+
+  Cumberland Bay, 317
+
+  Curtis, Mr., 129
+
+  Cutter Cove, visit to, 63
+
+  Cypress, 84
+
+
+  Dafonte, Mr., 310
+
+  Darwin, Ch., 30, 75, 105, 120, 144, 152, 299, 308
+
+  Darwin Glacier, 300;
+    Harbour, 28
+
+  _Dasypus minutus_, 209
+
+  Dawson Island, visit to mission station, 35
+
+  Day, R., 183
+
+  Deseado, Lake, excursion to, 37;
+    River, nature of, 212
+
+  Diaz Palacios, Lake, 62
+
+  _Diomedea chlororhyncha_, 16;
+    _exulans_, 320
+
+  Donoso, Mount, ascent of, 281
+
+  Douglas Bay, visit to mission station, 302
+
+  Dreyfus, Mr., 112
+
+  _Drimys Winteri_, 43
+
+  _Duc d’Aumale_, sailing vessel, 15
+
+  Dun, Mr., 193
+
+  _Durvillea_, 9, 110
+
+  Dusén, P., 156
+
+
+  Eberhard, H., 288, 291
+
+  Edwards, Port, 311
+
+  Ekdahl, G., 127
+
+  _Embothrium coccineum_, 196
+
+  _Empetrum rubrum_, 51
+
+  English-Argentine Land Company, 176
+
+  English Harbour, landing in, 142
+
+  English Narrows, 85
+
+  _Escallonia_, 250
+
+  Escarpada Island, old Indian camp on, 66
+
+  Esguel Mountains, 180
+
+  Espersen, Mr., 205
+
+  _Eudyptes chrysocome_, 16;
+    remarkable track of, 17
+
+  Evangelistas Islands, landing on, 80;
+    nature of, 81
+
+  Excelsior Sound, Indian portage in, 101
+
+
+  Fagnano, Lake, appearance of, 42;
+    arrival at, 43;
+    boat trip on, 54;
+    camp at, 47;
+    depth of, 57;
+    history of exploration, 34;
+    return from, 58;
+    road past, 306
+
+  Falkland Islands, albatross rookery, 16;
+    alpine plants, 21;
+    bishop, 4;
+    boggy ground, 29;
+    climate, 5, 21, 23;
+    climate during Ice Age, 17;
+    fossil forest, 18;
+    foxes, 13;
+    history, 22, 30;
+    lack of trees, 6, 17;
+    marine life, 8, 9;
+    mountainous district, 21;
+    nature, 6, 10;
+    origin of stone-runs, 18;
+    outlying islands, 13, 14;
+    penguin rookery, 16;
+    position, 2;
+    riding in, 19, 24, 27, 30;
+    sheepfarming, 20;
+    shepherds, 20;
+    tidal currents, 11, 12, 22;
+    tussock grass, 7, 16;
+    wild cattle, 12
+
+  Falkland Island Company, 4
+
+  Fallos Channel, 87
+
+  _Felis concolor_, 203
+
+  Felix Lighthouse, 90
+
+  Felton, A., x. 15
+
+  Fenix River, 207;
+    vegetation at, 210;
+    water-divide of, 212
+
+  Ferrier, W., 280, 285, 286
+
+  Fitzroy’s excursion in Patagonia, 152
+
+  Fitzroy Channel, 65
+
+  _Fitzroya Patagonica_, 108
+
+  Flach, C., 185
+
+  Foley, Ch., x. 28
+
+  Fonck, C., 153
+
+  Fontaine River, survey of valley, 44
+
+  Fósiles River, floating soil at sources, 244;
+    geological discoveries at, 245;
+    mountain pass, 245
+
+  Fortuna, Port, 298
+
+  Fox Bay, visit to, 25
+
+  Frank, S., 246
+
+  Fria, Laguna, 160
+
+  Frias Valley, excursion into, 188
+
+  Frio, Lago, 274
+
+  Froward, Cape, 63, 311
+
+  _Fuchsia magellanica_, 65
+
+  Fuhr, K., 263
+
+  _Furcifer chilensis_, 189
+
+  Furlong, Ch., 307
+
+
+  Gable Island, fossils on, 306
+
+  Gajardo Channel, survey in, 69, 70
+
+  Gajardo, T., 62
+
+  Galapagos Islands, 144
+
+  Gallant, Port, Indians in, 77
+
+  Gardiner, H., 152
+
+  Gesa Inlet, discovery of, 289
+
+  Gio River, camping at, 221
+
+  Girling, W. C., ix. 2
+
+  Glacier Sound, 299
+
+  _Glossopteris_, 27, 312
+
+  _Glossotherium_, 290
+
+  Gomez, Port, visits to, 38, 61
+
+  Granfelt, G., 126
+
+  Grappler, Port, Indians in, 84, 85
+
+  de Grey, Lake and River, 286
+
+  Guanaco, 42, 52, 208;
+    curiosity of, 220;
+    large herds, 179, 191;
+    tracks, 41, 45, 219
+
+  Guia Narrows, Indians in, 84
+
+  _Gunnera peltata_, 139
+
+  Guyon, Mr., 66
+
+  Gyldén, O., 1
+
+
+  Halle, J. G., viii.
+
+  Harberton Harbour, visit to, 306, 310
+
+  Harding, W., ix. 4, 27
+
+  “Harina tostada,” 111
+
+  Hatcher Expedition, 155, 242
+
+  Hauthal, R., 155, 273
+
+  Herrera, Mr., 304
+
+  Hielo, River, 286;
+    sources of, 287
+
+  Hill Cove, settlement in, 19
+
+  Hogberg, C., 240, 247
+
+  Holdich, Sir J., 155
+
+  Hooker, Sir J. D., 30
+
+  Hope Bay, camping in, 38, 59
+
+  Hoste Island, 303
+
+  Howard, Port, 24
+
+  Huafo Island, excursion to, 118;
+    forests on, 119;
+    gales, 118, 120;
+    wild dogs, 119
+
+  Huapiguilan Islands, 118, 120
+
+  Huemul, first encounter, 189;
+    hunting, 218, 226;
+    tameness, 220, 283
+
+  _Huemul_, steamer, 33, 60, 62, 65;
+    aground, 72;
+    damaged, 73
+
+  Huilliches, 105
+
+  Hülphers, H., 286
+
+  Hush Indians, 307
+
+  _Hymenophyllum_, 66, 139
+
+
+  Icy Reach, drifting ice in, 85
+
+  Inca Lake, 130
+
+  Indians of Patagonian Channels, appearance, 92;
+    food, 95;
+    future, 103;
+    garments, 94;
+    habits, 93, 94;
+    industry, 94, 97;
+    language, 102;
+    polygamy, 97;
+    portages, 101;
+    travels, 99, 100;
+    weapons, 96
+
+  Indian canoe, construction of, 91, 99
+
+  Indian interpreter, 77
+
+  Inocentes Channel, 85
+
+
+  Jeinemeni Valley, difficult passage, 217
+
+  Jerome Channel, nature of, 63;
+    nightly passage, 73
+
+  Johow, F., 139
+
+  Jones, Mr., 162
+
+  Joya, Lake, 235
+
+  Juan Fernandez Islands, arrival at, 135;
+    first appearance, 135;
+    history of discovery, 146;
+    lobsters, 147;
+    magui, 137;
+    palm trees, 138;
+    remarkable flora, 137;
+    sandal tree, 141;
+    situation, 134
+
+  _Juania australis_, 138
+
+  Juncal, railway station, 129
+
+
+  Kachaik, Mount, aspect of, 258
+
+  _Karl_, steamer, hunting whales on, 324
+
+  Kelpgeese, 44
+
+  Kentish Islands, 88
+
+  King, Cape, 82
+
+  Koslowsky Valley, 201
+
+  Krüger, P., 155
+
+
+  Laccolites in the Andes, 236, 282
+
+  Lacteo River, 237
+
+  Lafonia, district, nature of, 27
+
+  _Lafonia_, schooner, 10, 13, 25, 27
+
+  Landgren, T., 122
+
+  Lapataia, visit to, 300
+
+  Larson, C. A., 313, 320, 321
+
+  _Larus Scoresbyi_, 28
+
+  Las Cuevas, railway station, 131
+
+  Laurel, 108, 195
+
+  _Laurelia serrata_, 195
+
+  Lebu, 126
+
+  Lehmann-Nietsche, R., 307
+
+  Lelej, English farm, 176, 178
+
+  Leña dura, 286
+
+  León, F., 152
+
+  Leona River, 261;
+    bare landscape near, 262
+
+  _Lessonia_, 19, 22
+
+  _Libocedrus chilensis_, 162;
+    _tetragona_, 84, 108, 121
+
+  Lista, R., 154
+
+  Lista Valley, aspect of, 241
+
+  Llanguihue Province, colonisation in, 157
+
+  Los Amigos, stay at, 65
+
+  Los Andes, visit to, 128, 132
+
+  Lota, famous pack in, 126
+
+  Löwenborg, A., 33, 129
+
+  Löwenborg Lake, 53
+
+  Luche, 110
+
+  Luma, 108
+
+  Lundberg, Mr. (Koslowsky Valley), 205
+
+  Lundberg, Mr. (Lapataia), 300
+
+
+  _Macrocystis_, 10, 79
+
+  _Macrorhinus leoninus_, 319
+
+  Maldonado, R., 116
+
+  Mañiú, 84, 195
+
+  Mañiuales River, excursion to, 195
+
+  Margueirat, F., 297
+
+  Maria, Mount, ascent of, 24
+
+  _Marsippospermum grandiflorum_, 94
+
+  Martial Mountains, aspect of, 305
+
+  Masafuera Island, ascent of, 144;
+    flora, 144, 146;
+    future, 148;
+    penal settlement, 147;
+    topography, 144, 146;
+    wild goats, 144
+
+  Masatierra Island, topography of, 136, 138
+
+  Mascardi, Father, mission journeys of, 152
+
+  Mascarello River, 42;
+    camping at, 46
+
+  Mata Blanca, 245
+
+  Maté, 49
+
+  Mathews, Mr., x. 24
+
+  Mayer, Mr., 39
+
+  Mayer River, 242
+
+  Mayo River, boggy ground along, 199
+
+  Maytén, farm, 175
+
+  _Maytenus magellanica_, 286
+
+  _Megaptera_, 326
+
+  Merino, J. E., 117
+
+  Meseta Chalia, difficult crossing of, 199
+
+  Meseta Guenguel, pass across, 206
+
+  Meseta del Viento, crossing, 259
+
+  Messier Channel, 85
+
+  _Meteoro_, steamer, 76
+
+  Miguens, A., 181
+
+  Miller, Mr., x.
+
+  Mogole, Lake, 236
+
+  Montt, J., 75, 127
+
+  Moreno, F. P., 153, 212
+
+  Morro Chico, stopping at, 292
+
+  Moyano, Mr., 153
+
+  _Mulinum spinosum_, 167
+
+  Müller, F., 49, 54
+
+  Murray Narrows, 302
+
+  Musters, G., 153
+
+  Mylodon Cave, visit to, 289, 291
+
+  _Myrcengenia apiculata_, 195
+
+  _Myrtus luma_, 108
+
+
+  Nahuelhuapi, Lake, 161
+
+  Navarin Island, 302
+
+  Ñire, 41
+
+  Ñirehuao Valley, excursions in, 191
+
+  Ñires River, camping at, 241
+
+  Nordenskiöld, E., 290
+
+  Nordenskjöld, O., 40, 289
+
+  Ñorquinco, last telegraph office, 172
+
+  _Nothofagus antarctica_, 41, 65, 89;
+    _betuloides_, 43;
+    _pumilio_, 51, 64
+
+
+  Obstruction Sound, Indian road to, 101
+
+  _Ogmorhinus leptonyx_, 319
+
+  Olivia, Mount, 305
+
+  Ona Indians, 306
+
+  Orange Bay, visit to, 308
+
+  _Oravia_, steamer, 1, 2
+
+  _Oronsa_, steamer, 31
+
+  Osborne, Mr., 13
+
+  Osorno volcano, 157
+
+  Otway Station, visit to, 293
+
+  Otway Water, nature of, 64
+
+
+  Pacheco Island, 82
+
+  Packe, V., x.
+
+  Packsaddle Bay, visit to, 304
+
+  Pagels, A., 34, 62, 150, 162
+
+  _Palinurus frontalis_, 147
+
+  Pampa Chica, stay at, 184
+
+  Pascua River, 249
+
+  Patagonia, alpine flora, 220;
+    boundary dispute, 154;
+    camping in, 169, 170;
+    cedars, 162;
+    dryness of, 187;
+    equipment for voyage in, 163;
+    forests in, 182, 195, 234;
+    foxes, tameness of, 279;
+    fur trade, 208;
+    history of discoveries, 151, 154;
+    horses, 163;
+    hospitality, 184;
+    journey planned, 150;
+    lamb-marking, 192;
+    life of peons, 177;
+    ostriches, 179;
+    rapid changes of temperature, 211;
+    salt-lagoons, 18;
+    solifluction, 200;
+    swamps, 198;
+    table-mountains, 188;
+    thefts of horses, 174;
+    water-birds, 187, 213;
+    vegetation of pampas, 107, 182, 203
+
+  Patagonian Channels, animal life in, 83;
+    forests, 84;
+    glaciers, 299;
+    latitudinal changes of vegetation, 84;
+    meeting Indians in, 82, 84, 85;
+    nature, 83;
+    scenery, 78;
+    traffic, 84;
+    weather, 79, 83;
+    western passage, 85
+
+  Patagonian skerries, nature of, 79
+
+  Payne, Mount, ascent of, 282;
+    aspect of, 280;
+    geology, 282, 284
+
+  Pearce, J., 8
+
+  Peel Inlet, survey in, 88;
+    possibility of crossing inland ice to, 287
+
+  Pembroke lighthouse, 7, 8
+
+  Penas Gulf, visit to, 85
+
+  Peninsula, Lake, 236
+
+  Perez-Rosales Pass, crossing of, 160
+
+  _Pernettya mucronata_, 56
+
+  Peulla, arrival in, 159;
+    forests round, 161
+
+  Pico River, visit to German settlement, 188
+
+  Pillar cactus, 128
+
+  Pitt Channel, bad anchorage in, 87
+
+  _Philesia buxifolia_, 84, 254
+
+  Philippi, F., 141
+
+  Philippi, R. A., 153
+
+  Philomel, Port, 11
+
+  _Poa flabellata_, 16
+
+  _Podocarpus nubigena_, 84
+
+  Poncho, 107, 129, 164
+
+  Popper, J., 309
+
+  Port Egmont, old settlement in, 22
+
+  Port Louis, 30
+
+  Port Stanley, life in, 3
+
+  _Porvenir_, steamer, 296
+
+  Posadas, Lake, visit to, 222, 224
+
+  Pot Harbour, changes in, 317
+
+  Potrancas, rivulet, 242
+
+  Preston, Mr., 176
+
+  Primero de Mayo, 297
+
+  _Princess Ingeborg_, leave Sweden on, 1
+
+  Principio, Mount, camping at, 222
+
+  Pudeto River, voyage up, 113
+
+  Pudú, 115
+
+  Puerto Blest, 160;
+    snowstorm in, 161
+
+  Puerto Montt, departure from, 156
+
+  Puerto Varas, 157
+
+  Pueyrredon, Lake, visit to, 222
+
+  Puma, 203
+
+  Punta Arenas, 32, 199, 312
+
+
+  Quebrada de las Casas, 144
+
+  Queen Adelaide group, 82
+
+  Quellon, visit to, 122
+
+  Quemado, Mount, camping at, 177
+
+  Quensel, P. D., viii.
+
+  _Querquedula Eatoni_, 320
+
+  Quila, 115
+
+  Quillango, 208
+
+
+  Ramirez, Chilean settlement, 83
+
+  Reeves, Mr., 259, 262
+
+  Reid, A., ix. 2
+
+  Resi Inlet, discovery of, 289
+
+  _Rhea_, 179
+
+  _Rhodostachys bicolor_, 115
+
+  Rio Grande, excursion to, 75
+
+  Robinson Crusoe, 135
+
+  Robinson’s Grotto, 143
+
+  Roble, 56, 64
+
+  Robles River, crossing of, 239
+
+  Roca, Lake, boat excursion on, 301
+
+  Rogberg, C., 1, 312
+
+  Rojas, B., 33, 62, 296
+
+  Rojas River, discovery of, 53
+
+  Romanche Bay, visit to, 299
+
+  Rosario, Lake, dangerous swamps near, 182
+
+  Roth, C., 159
+
+  Roth, S., 155
+
+  Roy Cove, settlement in, 15
+
+
+  Samuel Cove, visit to, 118
+
+  San Carlos, excursion to settlements, 29
+
+  San Clementi, Mount, 206
+
+  San Lorenzo, Mount, 236
+
+  San Martin, Lake, boat excursion on, 249;
+    glaciers, 253, 255;
+    icebergs, 249, 255;
+    terrible squalls, 250, 252
+
+  San Pedro Island, 117;
+    primeval forest, 120
+
+  San Valentin, Mount, 206
+
+  Santa Cruz River, crossing of, 264
+
+  _Santalum fernandezianum_, description of last specimen, 142
+
+  Santiago, Swedish colony in, 127
+
+  H.M.S. _Sappho_, arrival of, 31
+
+  Sarmiento Channel, 84
+
+  Sarmiento, Lake, remarkable nature of, 284
+
+  Sarmiento, Mount, 298
+
+  Saunders Island, visit to, 22
+
+  Saunders, Mr., 293
+
+  _Saxegothea conspicua_, 195
+
+  Schönmeyr, A., 127
+
+  Schönmeyr glacier, 255
+
+  Sea-elephant, 319, 323
+
+  Sea-leopard, 319
+
+  Selkirk, A., 139;
+    commemoration tablet to, 140
+
+  Senguerr River, crossing of, 191
+
+  Sheep-dip, 247, 268
+
+  Shehuen, valley of, 259
+
+  Sixteenth October Valley, 180;
+    rain-forests in, 182;
+    Welsh Colony, 181
+
+  Skottsberg, C., viii.
+
+  Skottsberg, Lake, visit to, 283
+
+  Skunk, 260
+
+  Skyring Water, coal mines, 73;
+    colonists, 66;
+    fossils, 73;
+    gales, 65;
+    glaciers, 67, 68;
+    history of discovery, 62;
+    hydrography, 72;
+    nature of, 67;
+    travels of Indians, 66, 68
+
+  Slogget Bay, gold-digging in, 309;
+    fossils in, 308;
+    marine flora, 310
+
+  Smyth Channel, 84
+
+  Sociedad Esplotadora de Tierra del Fuego, 268, 271
+
+  _Solanum tuberosum_, 114
+
+  South Georgia, arrival in, 317;
+    climate, 318;
+    hunting whales, 325;
+    hurricanes, 323;
+    nature of, 318;
+    vegetation, 319;
+    voyage to, 314;
+    whaling industry, 313, 321
+
+  South Patagonia, gold-digging in, 64;
+    history of colonies, 269, 289
+
+  Steffen, H., 155
+
+  Stewart, Mr., 193
+
+  _Stipa_, 261
+
+  Svea, Mount, visit to, 51
+
+
+  _Tachyeres cinereus_, 47
+
+  Talkahuano, naval port, 126
+
+  Tar, Lake, swamps round, 258
+
+  Tecka River, 184
+
+  Tehuelches, 199, 237
+
+  Témpanos Narrows, strong tidal currents, 69
+
+  Témpanos, Port, discovery of, 89
+
+  Tepú, _Tepualia stipularis_, 96, 121
+
+  Thesleff, A., 155
+
+  _Thessalia_, steamer, 312
+
+  Tierra del Fuego, alpine flora, 50;
+    arrival at, 38;
+    bird life, 44, 47, 55;
+    boundary dispute, 311;
+    camp life, 48;
+    equinoctial gales, 57;
+    forests, 55;
+    gold prospecting, 309;
+    mission station, 35;
+    mountain scenery, 45, 49;
+    peat bogs, 42, 45;
+    tertiary fossils, 75;
+    weather, 43, 52, 55
+
+  Todos los Santos, Lake, 158
+
+  _Toro_, steamer, 117, 124
+
+  Transandino railway, 128;
+    great tunnel, 130;
+    wild life among labourers, 130
+
+  _Trichomanes_, 139
+
+  Tronador, Mount, excursion to, 160;
+    glaciers with vegetation on, 160
+
+  Tropilla, 163
+
+  Troya Channel, 86
+
+  Tuco-tuco, 189
+
+  Tuco-tuco, rivulet, 241
+
+  Turbis River, 292
+
+
+  Ulloa, F., 104
+
+  Ultima Esperanza, visit to, 288;
+    boat excursion from, 289;
+    great caverns near, 291, 292
+
+  _Ulva_, 110
+
+  Underwood’s farm, stay in, 180
+
+  _Undine_, steamer, 321
+
+  Upsala glacier, survey near, 277
+
+  Usborne, Mount, ascent of, 29
+
+  Ushuaia, visit to, 304, 311
+
+  Uspallata Pass, crossing of, 130;
+    statue of Christ in, 131
+
+
+  Vacas Mountains, 241
+
+  Valdivia, visit to, 126
+
+  Valdivia, P., 104
+
+  _Valdivia_, steamer, 116
+
+  Valdivieso Mountains, 40;
+    discovery of pass across, 53
+
+  Valenzuela, F., 296
+
+  Valparaiso, visit to, 127
+
+  Ventisqueros Inlet, survey in, 68
+
+  _Verbena_, 210
+
+  Verde, Mount, 40
+
+  _Veronica elliptica_, 13
+
+  _Vestfold_, steamer, 124, 127
+
+  Viedma, Lake, visit to, 261
+
+  Viel Channel, first encounter with channel Indians, 82
+
+
+  Warrah River, excursion in valley of, 23, 24
+
+  Westpoint Island, nature of, 15
+
+  Whales, blue, 326;
+    fin, 326;
+    humpback, 326;
+    right, 324;
+    whale-oil, 327
+
+  Whaleboat Sound, 298
+
+  Whaling steamers, 324
+
+  Wickham Heights, 29
+
+  Winter’s Bark, 43, 56, 66
+
+  Wollaston Islands, vegetation of, 304
+
+  Woodsworth Bay, beautiful waterfall in, 90
+
+  Worsley Sound, 289
+
+
+  Yahgan Indians, disappearance of, 101;
+    encounter with, 302, 303;
+    mussel-banks of, 301
+
+  _Yegua Madrina_, 163
+
+  Yelcho River, excursion in valley of, 123
+
+  Yerba, 49
+
+
+  Zapallar, visit to, 132
+
+  Zapato, Mount, 287
+
+  Zeballos River, camping at, 219;
+    mountain scenery east of, 220
+
+
+                              PRINTED BY
+                       BALLANTYNE & COMPANY LTD
+                    TAVISTOCK STREET COVENT GARDEN
+                                LONDON
+
+[Illustration: MAP OF SOUTH AMERICA SOUTH OF 41°
+
+SHOWING THE ROUTE OF Dᴿ SKOTTSBERG’S EXPEDITION
+
+SCALE 1:3000000]
+
+
+
+
+      Telegrams:             41 and 43 Maddox Street,
+  “Scholarly, London.”          Bond Street, London, W.
+      Telephone:
+  No. 1833 Mayfair.                   _September, 1911._
+
+  Mr. Edward Arnold’s
+  LIST OF NEW BOOKS,
+  Autumn, 1911.
+
+  MEMOIRS AND LETTERS OF THE
+  RIGHT HON. SIR ROBERT MORIER,
+  G.C.B.,
+  FROM 1826-1876.
+
+Edited by His Daughter, Mrs. ROSSLYN WEMYSS
+
+_In Two Volumes. With Portraits. Demy 8vo._ =32s. net.=
+
+These two volumes of the Memoirs and Letters of a very eminent
+diplomatist are of intense value, not only from a literary, but also
+from an historical point of view, containing as they do a most graphic
+and lucid description of the various events that went to make up the
+history of Germany from 1853 to 1876. The matters that led to the
+War of Schleswig-Holstein are dealt with in a vivid and interesting
+fashion, and with a clarity which will enable the reader to understand
+many points that have hitherto seemed obscure. The story of the
+struggle for supremacy in Germany, and for German Unity, and of the
+Franco-German War, is set forth impartially and without prejudice by
+one who witnessed critical events from the inside.
+
+Subjects of the most vital interest--as, for instance, the war scare of
+1875, the spread of European Liberalism, etc.--are dealt with by
+Sir Robert Morier in his correspondence in a style which must appeal to
+anyone at all interested in the European history of the past century.
+The distinguished diplomatist’s views upon the Foreign Office, the
+Emperor William I., and Bismarck, are given in a series of letters to
+various correspondents all over the world, among whom we may mention
+Jowett, Sir Louis Mallet, Lady Derby, and the Emperor Frederick.
+The friends and acquaintances of Sir Robert Morier’s youth--Froude,
+Tennyson, and other eminent contemporaries--are portrayed with a
+skilful pen.
+
+
+NUTS AND CHESTNUTS.
+
+  By the Hon. L. A. TOLLEMACHE,
+  AUTHOR OF “OLD AND ODD MEMORIES.”
+
+_One Volume. Crown 8vo._ =2s. 6d. net.=
+
+
+  A MEMOIR OF
+  EDWARD CHARLES WICKHAM,
+  DEAN OF LINCOLN, AND FORMERLY HEAD-MASTER
+  OF WELLINGTON COLLEGE.
+
+  By Canon LONSDALE RAGG,
+  RECTOR OF TICKENCOTE.
+  AUTHOR OF “DANTE AND HIS ITALY,” “THE BOOK OF BOOKS,” ETC.
+
+_With Illustrations. One Volume._ =7s. 6d. net.=
+
+The interest of a life is not necessarily proportioned to its share
+of dramatic incident and adventure. Edward Charles Wickham was
+essentially a scholar and a student rather than a man of action: his
+life was almost exclusively academic--at Winchester, at New College,
+at Wellington College, and finally in the Deanery at Lincoln. But it
+was far from being in any sense a stagnant one. Wherever he went he
+bore with him the inspiration of a born reformer, combined with an
+enlightened reverence for the past like that which made his illustrious
+father-in-law, Mr. W. E. Gladstone, a thorough-going Conservative in
+certain departments. In accordance with what would certainly have been
+the Dean’s own wish, the Memoir has been kept within strictly modest
+limits, and a sparing use has been made of letters; but the record is
+enriched by reminiscences contributed by not a few of Wickham’s former
+associates, colleagues, and pupils. Mr. A. O. Prickard supplies an
+appreciation of Wickham’s contribution to Scholarship, and Dr. Lock an
+appreciation of his University Preaching. Dr. Wickham’s singular gifts
+as a preacher are too well known to call for mention. Specimens of a
+few of his most notable sermons are given in an Appendix.
+
+
+  HANDLEY CROSS;
+  OR,
+  MR. JORROCKS’S HUNT.
+
+Illustrated by CECIL ALDIN.
+
+_In Two Volumes, with 24 Coloured Plates and about 100 Black-and-White
+Illustrations in the Text. The Ordinary Edition will be Royal 8vo.,
+handsomely bound._ =21s. net.=
+
+_Also a limited Edition de Luxe of 250 copies only for the British
+Empire, each Copy Numbered and Signed by the Artist._ =£3 3s. net.=
+
+This is a complete edition of Surtees’ glorious work, illustrated by
+the one artist of the day who is pre-eminently fitted to do justice
+to it. The tale of the immortal Jorrocks and his Hunt is to-day
+the most popular classic work on fox-hunting, and Mr. Cecil Aldin
+is unquestionably the most popular sporting artist. He has entered
+heart and soul into the spirit of the work, and the excellence of his
+pictures proves that they were inspired by enthusiasm for his subject.
+The period is one that Mr. Aldin has made peculiarly his own, and while
+preserving the traditional representation of the characters, he has
+been able to give full play to his powers of depicting old-fashioned
+country scenes both indoors and in the open, especially, of course,
+those in the hunting-field. His strikingly original style brings out
+the full flavour of the famous book.
+
+
+THE HORSE:
+
+Its Origin and Development, combined with Stable Practice.
+
+By Colonel R. F. MEYSEY-THOMPSON,
+
+AUTHOR OF “A HUNTING CATECHISM,” “REMINISCENCES OF CAMP, COURSE, AND
+CHASE,” ETC.
+
+_With Illustrations. One Volume. Demy 8vo._ =15s. net.=
+
+This work covers a large field of remarkable interest to all lovers of
+the horse. It is full of valuable matter, combined with sound advice.
+The volume commences with the horse in its earliest shape, and traces
+briefly its development down to the present time. Each breed has a
+special chapter devoted to it which has been submitted to the best
+known authorities in each department; and, amongst others, it may be
+mentioned that Lady Anne Blunt has kindly criticized the chapter
+upon Arabian Horses, while Mr. Hermon Biddell has done the same for
+Suffolk Punches, Mr. Walter Winans that on American Trotting Horses,
+and Mr. Alfred Withers has overlooked the account of Carriage Horses;
+in this way it is hoped the work may be regarded as authoritative on
+these subjects. The latter half of the book deals with Stable Practice,
+Simple Ailments and how to treat them, Breeding, Riding, Driving,
+Race-Riding, and Training Horses for the race-course and for hunting.
+Colonel Meysey-Thompson has had a lifetime’s experience in all these
+subjects, and is admirably qualified to deal with them.
+
+
+THE PACIFICATION OF BURMA.
+
+By Sir CHARLES CROSTHWAITE, K.C.S.I.,
+
+CHIEF COMMISSIONER OF BURMA, 1887-1890; MEMBER OF THE COUNCIL OF INDIA,
+ETC.
+
+_With Maps and Illustrations. One Volume. Demy 8vo._ =16s. net.=
+
+Sir Charles Crosthwaite succeeded the late Sir Charles Bernard as Chief
+Commissioner of Burma when that officer was compelled by sickness to
+leave the Province in March, 1887. From that date until December,
+1890, he administered Burma, and he had every opportunity, therefore,
+of knowing what was done. The measures by which, in four years and in
+a country which has been described by a soldier as “one vast military
+obstacle,” order and law were established, are narrated. After the
+military measures, without which no attempt at a Civil Government would
+have been possible, the constitution of the Indian military police and
+the establishment on a legal basis of the indigenous village system
+were the chief means of restoring peace. These measures are explained,
+and the way in which order was gradually evolved out of confusion is
+told. Separate chapters deal with the Shan States, with the wild Chins
+on the West between Burma and Bengal, with the Kachins about Mogaung on
+the North, and the Red Karrus on the South-East.
+
+
+MY ADVENTURES IN THE CONGO.
+
+By MARGUERITE ROBY.
+
+_With Numerous Illustrations and a Map. One Volume. Demy 8vo._ =12s.
+6d. net.=
+
+This is a book that casts an entirely new light on the vexed question
+of Belgian rule in the Congo. The authoress travelled alone with
+black porters for hundreds of miles through the very districts in the
+Congo where the alleged Belgian atrocities have been taking place, and
+the results of her observations, as here set forth, put a somewhat
+startling complexion upon some views of the situation that have been
+commonly accepted hitherto.
+
+Although the conclusions drawn by Mrs. Roby from her travels in Central
+Africa are such as to set all truly patriotic Britons thinking, this
+book is no mere political tract. On the contrary, it is a stirring
+human document, in which humour, pathos, adventure, and indomitable
+pluck stand out from every page.
+
+The devotion of “Thomas,” the authoress’s black boy, who stood by her
+when everyone else had deserted her, and to whom on more than one
+occasion she owed her life; her desperate straits amongst mutinous
+porters who sought to kill her; her days and nights of raging fever,
+alone and delirious in the Bush; her big-game exploits; her experiences
+with savages who had never before clapped eyes on a white woman; these
+and innumerable other incidents combine to make this one of the most
+remarkable books ever penned by traveller.
+
+The emotions of a lifetime are crowded into this record of a
+six-months’ trek through Darkest Africa.
+
+A feature that makes the book still more fascinating is the series of
+splendid photographs taken by the authoress and her black boy during
+their hazardous journey.
+
+
+THE WILDS OF PATAGONIA.
+
+  A Narrative of the Swedish Expedition to Patagonia,
+  Tierra del Fuego, and the Falkland Islands
+  in 1907-1909.
+
+By CARL SKOTTSBERG, D.Sc., etc.
+
+_With Illustrations and Maps. One Volume. Demy 8vo._ =15s. net.=
+
+Three years after his return from the great Swedish Antarctic
+expedition in which he played so prominent a part, Dr. Carl Skottsberg,
+the distinguished naturalist and botanist, set forth once more, with
+two eminent fellow-scientists, Dr. Quensel and Dr. Halle, to explore
+the territories of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego, of which so little
+is known to the outside world. This “Swedish Magellanic Expedition,”
+as it was called, not only resulted in many valuable biological,
+botanical, and geological discoveries, but was also the means of
+supplying Dr. Skottsberg with the material upon which he has founded
+his book, “The Wilds of Patagonia.” Full of interest and excitement
+are the graphic accounts which the author gives in this volume of
+the various expeditions made by him in the Falkland Islands, of the
+hardships he endured in the unknown interior of Tierra del Fuego, of
+his constant exposure to wind and weather in the heart of Chile, of his
+visit to Robinson Crusoe’s romantic island, and his journeys across the
+Andes and through the Cordilleras. Dr. Skottsberg writes with humour
+as well as charm, and while the descriptions of his various adventures
+and misadventures are amusing as well as thrilling, his pen-pictures
+of South American scenery are striking and vivid. This book should
+appeal especially to the naturalist and the traveller, but cannot fail
+to prove a source of pleasure and interest to the general reader. Its
+attractive character is further enhanced by a number of illustrations
+from photographs taken by the author in the course of his travels.
+
+
+BRITISH AND GERMAN EAST
+
+AFRICA.
+
+Their Economic and Commercial Relations.
+
+By Dr. H. BRODE,
+
+AUTHOR OF “TIPPOO TIB.”
+
+_With a Map. One Volume, Demy 8vo._ =7s. 6d. net.=
+
+In this book Dr. Brode graphically describes the growth and
+development of British and German territories in East Africa, gives
+most interesting details as to the trade of the country, the shipping
+and railway services, etc., and discusses the question of native
+taxation and the position of native labour. He deals at length with
+the agricultural position of East Africa, its natural products and
+resources, the education of its aboriginal inhabitants, and many other
+matters of paramount importance. The comparison which Dr. Brode draws
+between the administration and commercial methods and arrangements of
+Germany and Great Britain respectively is of the greatest possible
+interest to British readers, and the tables of statistics with which he
+supplements his arguments must prove of enormous value to all who seek
+for information on the subject of East Africa.
+
+
+THE KING’S CARAVAN.
+
+Across Australia in a Waggon.
+
+By E. J. BRADY.
+
+_With Illustrations and Map. One Volume. Demy 8vo._ =12s. 6d. net.=
+
+After attaining eminence in the musical and cricket worlds, Australia
+seems to be rapidly coming to the front in literature. The _Sydney
+Bulletin_ has for some time been the centre of a group of young
+Australian-born writers who bid fair to do their country great service
+by revealing its charms to the world at large through the medium of
+both poetry and prose. One of the strongest among them is Mr. Brady,
+whose volume announced above is the outcome of an adventurous driving
+tour he made a few years ago. Starting from Sydney in a light waggon,
+he made his way gradually to Townsville in the north of Queensland.
+The route he took--parallel with the coast, but for the most part some
+way inland--enabled him to visit all the places of importance on the
+way, and to study the conditions of life under great variations of
+climate. The result of his observations, given with much dry humour and
+interspersed with interesting yarns, will be a revelation to English
+readers, and probably very largely so to Australians. The trip was not
+without its dangers, for the veneer of civilization is in parts still
+somewhat thin, while there were also tornados, snakes, alligators, and
+the peculiarly Australian terror of getting lost.
+
+
+FROM PILLAR TO POST.
+
+  By Lieut.-Colonel H. C. LOWTHER, D.S.O., M.V.O.,
+  SCOTS GUARDS.
+
+_With Illustrations. One Volume. Demy 8vo._ =15s. net.=
+
+Colonel Lowther is already well known as a soldier and a diplomatist.
+He has held a commission in the Scots Guards for over twenty years, has
+served with distinction in the last South African War, and has held
+an important appointment in the Intelligence Department of the War
+Office. In 1905 he accompanied the Diplomatic Mission to Fez, and for
+the next four years filled the responsible position of Military Attaché
+at Paris, Madrid, and Lisbon. Colonel Lowther, who is a brother of the
+present Speaker of the House of Commons, has recently been appointed
+Military Secretary to H.R.H. The Duke of Connaught, who is shortly to
+take up his duties as Governor-General of Canada. In his volume of
+personal reminiscences, “From Pillar to Post,” Colonel Lowther shows
+himself not only as a soldier and a diplomat, but also as an explorer,
+a world-wide traveller, and a sportsman, possessing great powers of
+observation, a facile and gifted pen, and a keen sense of humour.
+In a light and breezy style he describes his travels all over the
+world--from Crete to Morocco, from Ceylon to East Africa. He narrates
+his experiences of cattle-ranching in America and of lion-hunting in
+Somaliland, and gives a most interesting account of his adventures
+in times of peace and war, on active service in South Africa, and on
+manœuvres at home. The volume is illustrated throughout by original
+photographs taken by the author.
+
+
+MY LIFE STORY.
+
+By EMILY, SHAREEFA OF WAZAN.
+
+_With Illustrations. One Volume, Demy 8vo._ =12s. 6d. net.=
+
+Some forty years ago there was a considerable stir in European circles
+in Morocco, and in London as well, when the news was published that a
+young Englishwoman was about to marry the Grand Shareef of Wazan, who
+is the Ecclesiastical Head of Morocco. There was a violent discussion
+in the London Press, many people going so far as to protest against the
+intended marriage. Now, in 1911, the Grand Shareef is no more, but his
+widow is still living in Morocco, and, at the request of their many
+friends in Europe and America, has set down the story of her life. It
+may be safely said that her experiences have not been paralleled by any
+European woman, and that she has been brought face to face with the
+intimate seclusion of the Moorish woman’s life, even while maintaining
+her original faith. The story of her life has been edited by Mr. S. L.
+Bensusan, and Mr. R. B. Cunninghame Graham has written a preface. The
+book is dedicated by permission to Princess Henry of Battenberg, and
+will contain many original illustrations.
+
+
+PERU OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY.
+
+  By PERCY F. MARTIN,
+  AUTHOR OF “MEXICO OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY,” ETC.
+
+_With 32 pages of Illustrations and a Map. One Volume. Demy 8vo._ =15s.
+net.=
+
+Of all the South American Republics, perhaps Peru ranks as the most
+interesting, not only on account of its romantic history and the
+extremely picturesque nature of its people, but because its future is,
+by general consent of those travellers who have sufficiently studied
+the subject, one of the most brilliant and likely to prove one of the
+most permanent.
+
+Of the many volumes upon Peru which have been issued from time to
+time, the economic student has sought in vain for a complete account
+of the Republic’s commercial and industrial conditions, and thus a new
+work from the pen of an acknowledged authority upon this part of South
+America will be especially welcome.
+
+Herein will be found a careful, well-considered, and painstaking
+account of the Republic’s present condition and future prospects. The
+writer has studied the country very closely and very carefully; and it
+was generally admitted in Peru at the time of his visit last year that
+he actually travelled more extensively throughout the State, and looked
+more deeply and critically into its economic resources, than any author
+who had latterly visited it.
+
+The result is a volume literally crammed with valuable first-hand
+information about the leading industries. The many different railways
+are described fully. The copper, gold, and other mines are carefully
+dealt with. The sugar, guano, rubber, oil, and cotton industries are
+faithfully depicted and frequently illustrated, and new mercantile
+prospects of every description are foreshadowed.
+
+
+SALVADOR OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY.
+
+  By PERCY F. MARTIN,
+  AUTHOR OF “MEXICO OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY,” ETC.
+
+_With 32 pages of Illustrations and a Map. One Volume. Demy 8vo._ =15s.
+net.=
+
+Of late months the smaller Latin-American States--those forming
+what is known geographically as “Central America”--have attracted a
+great amount of attention, principally owing to the attempt made by
+the United States to force an alliance, commercial and financial,
+with them. Hitherto not a single book has been written regarding the
+most important, because most settled and most progressive, of these
+States--Salvador--and the present volume will therefore meet with
+more than ordinary attention. This work is from the pen of Mr. Percy
+F. Martin, F.R.G.S., the author of several well-known publications,
+most of which (at least those devoted to Argentina and Mexico) have
+received the _cachet_ of “standard works” upon their particular
+subjects. Mr. Martin has probably seen more of Latin-America than any
+living writer; and he has made this particular portion of the world his
+careful and special study. “Salvador of the Twentieth Century” will
+afford a complete description of the Republic; will show its gradual
+emancipation from the thraldom of the Spanish yoke; its early struggles
+against annexation by more powerful neighbours; its commercial
+accomplishments and possibilities--in fact, it will afford a thorough
+insight into a little-known but extremely interesting land with vast
+potentialities.
+
+Mr. Martin, who travelled extensively throughout the Republic, and was
+accorded every facility by the Government for making his enquiries
+and investigations untrammelled by official interference, has shown
+us in these pages an unexpectedly impressive and attractive picture
+of Central American life and progress, which, being assisted by a
+number of capital illustrations, should prove a welcome addition to
+Latin-American literature.
+
+
+ROUGHING IT IN SOUTHERN INDIA.
+
+By Mrs. M. A. HANDLEY.
+
+_With Numerous Illustrations. One Volume. Demy 8vo._
+
+12s. 6d. net.
+
+“Roughing it in Southern India” is just what its name implies--a book
+of travel, but with such a refreshingly picknicky air about it as
+lifts it quite out of the common rut of such books. The work is an
+account of the writer’s journeyings with her husband through the wilder
+forest tracts of Coimbatore, the Wynâd, and Malabar--vast districts,
+each of them--in the course of his duties as an officer of the Madras
+Woods and Forests Department; it relates a story of adventure and
+novel experience in pursuance of work and _shikar_ with all the
+incidental predicaments and obstacles. It describes encounters, sought
+and unsought, with wild animals; dealings with quaint jungle-people;
+excitements of travel along bad roads and no roads; difficulties in
+great variety, all of which had to be got through and over somehow. The
+manner in which these difficulties are portrayed gives a vivid human
+interest to every page, the whole being sketched in with an enviable
+lightness of touch, and clearly shows that _nerve_ without _nerves_ is
+indispensable to make such a day-after-day life as is here depicted
+possible, to say nothing of enjoyable. To a person hampered with nerves
+it could be no better than a series of nightmares.
+
+The book gives one a pleasant feeling that the day has gone by when
+Englishmen in India thought it fine to speak slightingly of, and even
+to, natives as “niggers”--a manner of speech as ignorant as it is
+insulting.
+
+
+THE LIFE OF A TIGER.
+
+By S. EARDLEY-WILMOT,
+
+AUTHOR OF “FOREST LIFE AND SPORT IN INDIA.”
+
+_With nearly 150 Original Illustrations. One Volume. Medium 8vo._
+
+7s. 6d. net.
+
+In his popular work, “Forest Life and Sport in India,” published last
+autumn, Mr. Eardley-Wilmot devoted a chapter to the habits of tigers.
+This, however, by no means exhausted his material, but it aroused much
+interest in an enthralling subject and paved the way for the present
+volume. The author has cast his work in the form of a life-history
+of an individual tiger from birth until, owing to the inroads of
+civilization into his ancient preserves, he becomes a man-eater and is
+finally shot. It would be difficult to over-emphasise the fascination
+of this tale, which not only records the _vie intime_ of the tiger
+family, but introduces the whole life of the jungle in a series of
+vivid and kaleidoscopic pictures. The attractions of the book are
+enhanced by about 150 thumb-nail sketches by the author’s daughter, as
+well as by reproductions of some of Mrs. Eardley-Wilmot’s charming and
+artistic photographs.
+
+
+THE SPORT OF SHOOTING.
+
+By OWEN JONES,
+
+AUTHOR OF “TEN YEARS OF GAME-KEEPING,” ETC.
+
+_With Illustrations. One Volume. Demy 8vo._ =10s. 6d. net.=
+
+This is an informative volume of absorbing interest and utility to the
+ever-increasing army of shooting-men, and to those many others who
+cherish an innate hankering after shot-gun sport. While the seasoned
+sportsman cannot fail to glean many a useful idea, the chief object
+of the book is to cater sympathetically (at the same time avoiding
+technical phraseology) for the beginner, whether he be an eager
+youngster or one whose opportunities have come with riper years--to
+put him from the first on the right track, and save him the endless
+disappointments of unguided inexperience. It explains those perplexing
+questions which undermine confidence and account for disheartening
+failures, puts him in the way of meeting each difficulty as it comes,
+assists him in laying out his money to good advantage, in buying a gun,
+cartridges, or dog: taking a shoot, engaging a keeper, and managing
+them both: or in distributing appropriate tips. Thus, perceiving the
+why and wherefore of this or that all-important detail of the ropes
+of shooting, he will be resourceful, self-reliant, and independent
+of others for the goodness of his sport; find abundance of healthy
+recreation in the making of a modest bag; by his own wise woodcraft
+cancel mere deficiencies of marksmanship; and last, but not least,
+whether as guest or host, add tenfold to his own enjoyment and that of
+his companions.
+
+
+THE ROMANCE OF THE HOLY LAND.
+
+By Dr. CHARLES LEACH, M.P.
+
+_With Numerous Illustrations. Large Crown 8vo._ =7s. 6d. net.=
+
+Avoiding technical terms and scientific descriptions, the author has
+produced a volume that should be welcomed by men and women in every
+country who have even a remote interest in the Bible and the land in
+which it was produced.
+
+The writer has made nine visits to Palestine during the last twenty
+years, and has delivered lectures upon it in many of the large towns of
+England. He takes the reader on a tour to the Holy Land, and travels
+with him to the principal places of Biblical interest. He describes
+many of the chief towns in such terms that the reader not only sees
+them as they are to-day, but can picture them as they were in the
+far-off first century. He describes the manners and customs of the
+people, the physical features of the country, the rivers and lakes of
+Palestine, and some of the remarkable historic events which have made
+the land famous throughout the world.
+
+Those who have been to the Holy Land will welcome this book, whilst
+those who have not been so fortunate will profit greatly from its pages.
+
+
+THE GRAVEN PALM.
+
+A Manual of the Science of Palmistry.
+
+By Mrs. ROBINSON.
+
+_With about 250 Original Illustrations. Medium 8vo._ =10s. 6d. net.=
+
+This work is the result of nearly twenty years’ practical experience,
+and the careful examination of many thousands of hands. The
+illustrations are drawn by Mrs. Robinson herself, and are in every case
+taken from hands which she has herself read. The great majority of the
+lines given are entirely original--_i.e._, are not to be found in any
+known work upon the Science of Palmistry.
+
+This book will enable those who study it to read character correctly
+from the shapes of the hands and the comparative lengths of fingers
+and phalanges; to understand the values of the different mounts, as
+bearing upon the character and life; and, by the full and comprehensive
+delineation of the six principal and the many chance lines upon the
+hand, to understand and read correctly the events of their own past and
+future, as given by the lines on the Mount of Venus in particular, and
+also in a minor degree by the lines of fate, fortune, and health.
+
+There are also at the end of the book several photographs of the hands
+of well-known and celebrated people.
+
+
+SOCIETY SKETCHES IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY.
+
+By NORMAN PEARSON,
+
+AUTHOR OF “SOME PROBLEMS OF EXISTENCE.”
+
+_With Photogravure Portraits. One Volume. Demy 8vo._ =12s. 6d. net.=
+
+This book deals with some features and figures of the eighteenth
+century which have hitherto escaped any detailed treatment, and with
+certain aspects of familiar persons which have been unduly overlooked.
+The Virtuosi who founded the Royal Society, but also called into
+existence a host of scientific quacks and charlatans; the Scowrers, and
+their successors the Mohocks, who infested the streets of London at the
+beginning of the eighteenth, and the Highwaymen who survived into the
+nineteenth century, are discussed in its pages. An essay is devoted to
+the fashionable Wits of the period, and another throws new light upon
+the inner history of the Macaronis. Tradition represents these as mere
+brainless fops, but the author shows that this reproach belongs rather
+to their later imitators than to the Macaronis of 1764.
+
+Governor Pitt, grandfather of the first Lord Chatham, the brilliant
+scapegrace “Etheldreda” (third Viscountess Townshend), the “Mad
+Duchess” of Queensberry, and that clever oddity Soame Jenyns, also
+find a place in the book, while new aspects of even such well-known
+characters as Horace Walpole and Hannah More are revealed in “The
+Serious Side of a Worldly Man,” and “The Lighter Side of a Serious
+Woman.”
+
+
+CAMEO BOOK-STAMPS.
+
+By CYRIL DAVENPORT, F.S.A.,
+
+SUPERINTENDENT OF BOOKBINDING IN THE BRITISH MUSEUM.
+
+_With about 150 Illustrations from Original Drawings by the Author._
+
+_The First Edition will be limited to 500 Copies only. In One Volume._
+
+_Super-Royal 8vo._ =21s. net.=
+
+Bookbinding stamps of different kinds have already been much written
+about, especially heraldic ones, but cameo stamps, although they have
+now and then been mentioned, have up to the present received no special
+recognition. They are in low relief, like medals, and are generally
+left ungilded and uncoloured.
+
+These stamps--the larger and more important of which are illustrated
+in this book--form, in fact, a very important division of the subject
+of decorative bookbinding, and, unlike most of the other kinds of
+book decoration, they rarely can be satisfactorily photographed. Mr.
+Davenport’s drawings, however, are singularly accurate copies of their
+originals, and will undoubtedly prove of the utmost value both to
+book-collectors and dealers in books.
+
+Some of the stamps shown are well known--those English ones, for
+instance, showing the Tudor Rose, and the coat-of-arms of Henry VIII.;
+but others are not so common. The English stamps of St. George and
+of St. Michael are very fine indeed. The beautiful French stamps of
+the vision of the Emperor Augustus, and the very interesting Italian
+stamps of Horatius Codes and of Marcus Curtius, will doubtless come
+as a revelation to many, and so with the “Canevari” stamp of Apollo,
+although it is better known to connoisseurs.
+
+The large series of German stamps, mostly on pigskin, is of great
+importance; there are several excellent portraits of Luther and of
+Melanchthon, and quaint stamps of Lot and his daughters, Judith and
+Holofernes, Jonah and the Whale, and many delicately cut stamps of
+incidents in the life of Christ and of the Virgin Mary.
+
+All these stamps, of which there are about 150, are beautifully
+and truthfully copied from the originals, and with each is a short
+description. At the end is a full and most useful index. Every
+inscription, whether in Greek, Latin, or German, is translated, and
+every initial noted and indexed.
+
+The book will be invaluable to every librarian--in fact, necessary--and
+it will add much to the interest of every book, whether in morocco,
+calf, or pigskin, that bears upon it one of the stamps illustrated.
+
+
+A LITTLE HISTORY OF MUSIC.
+
+By ANNETTE HULLAH.
+
+_With Numerous Illustrations. One Volume. Medium 8vo._ =5s.=
+
+This is a history of music written in a simple way for young people.
+After a chapter on aboriginal songs and dance-tunes, and another on
+the music of ancient nations, the Romans lead us into early Britain,
+and so to the first Christian chants. Then we have mediæval monks
+and scholars arranging scales. Minstrels and troubadours, with the
+stories of their time, bring us to the Elizabethian age of masque and
+madrigal. How Florentine genius developed these into the first operas
+and oratorios completes the next century. Then we come to a period of
+fine players and fine instruments, of Corelli and Tartini, of Amati
+and Stradivarius, of harpsichordists like Scarlatti, and of German
+organists long since eclipsed by the light of Bach. What he, and the
+other great composers since his day, did for music fills up the rest of
+the chapters and takes the record down to our own time. There are many
+legends and anecdotes in the book, and illustrations of quaint musical
+instruments of old days.
+
+
+THE FRAMEWORK OF HOME RULE.
+
+By ERSKINE CHILDERS,
+
+AUTHOR OF “WAR AND THE ARME BLANCHE,” “THE RIDDLE OF THE SANDS,” ETC.
+
+_One Volume. Demy 8vo._ =10s. 6d. net.=
+
+A study of the Irish question, mainly from the Imperial standpoint.
+First sketching the history of Ireland in close conjunction with that
+of the lost American Colonies and the present self-governing Dominions,
+the author shows that the same forms of misgovernment arising from
+similar conditions have always led to the same mischievous results, and
+that their only remedy, when applied in time, has been Home Rule. He
+then reviews the present state of Ireland, describing the extraordinary
+anomalies of the semi-colonial government. Full attention is given
+also to the brighter side of Irish life. But the author points out the
+deep marks of arrested development, and the need for self-reliance and
+self-development under a responsible Irish Government.
+
+With regard to the form Home Rule should take, the author devotes
+special attention to the vital questions of finance and Irish
+representation at Westminster, as well as to guarantees for an Ulster
+minority, executive power, police, judges, and numerous other points of
+secondary importance.
+
+The aim is to supply not only a reasoned defence of Home Rule, but
+a practical up-to-date guide to the legislative settlement of the
+question.
+
+
+PROS AND CONS OF POLITICAL PROBLEMS.
+
+By Sir J. D. REES, K.C.I.E.
+
+_One Volume._ =7s. 6d. net.=
+
+In this book Sir J. D. Rees, K.C.I.E., ex.-M.P., surveys the more
+important political problems at present before the nation from the
+points of view of both great parties in the State. The following
+subjects are dealt with: Imperial Organization, Defence, Foreign
+Policy, Indian and Colonial Problems, Trade Relations and Tariff
+Reform, Suffrage, Home Rule, Education, Disestablishment, Finance,
+Socialism, Labour Questions, Land Reform, and the Constitutional
+Problems at present before the country. To each great question a
+chapter is devoted which gives the reader a concise survey of the
+points at issue and a summary of the position at the present day, and
+to every chapter are appended the arguments for and against: in the
+hope that the reader in a few pages may find a guide to the reasons
+upon which political parties base their case. The utility of the work
+to the student and politician will be enhanced by the bibliographical
+notes at the end of each chapter, which indicate the scope of the works
+recommended, so that the reader may be able to follow up his study of
+any political question. The information has been compressed into a
+volume of handy size so as to be of use to speakers and politicians.
+It is not, however, merely a work of reference--although an excellent
+index and the sub-division of the chapters make reference easy--but is
+intended to be read.
+
+
+ECONOMICS FOR BEGINNERS.
+
+By GEORGE W. GOUGH, M.A.,
+
+SOMETIME EXHIBITIONER OF BALLIOL COLLEGE.
+
+_One Volume. Crown 8vo._ =3s. 6d. net.=
+
+The need of a short textbook of economics which teachers can place
+in the hands of pupils who are starting the subject with a view to
+preparing for the more elementary parts of the higher examinations in
+it, is well known, and Mr. Gough’s little volume is an attempt to meet
+it. The _core_ of this vast subject, if the expression may be used,
+is fully and simply treated in accordance with authoritative opinion.
+Hence the beginner who means to continue his studies will be put in a
+position to read one or more of the larger manuals with advantage. As
+appendices there will be given a guide to further reading, a selection
+of typical questions--for the answers to which the text of the book
+will be found to furnish materials and hints--and a short selection
+of statistics illustrating modern economic conditions in the United
+Kingdom. It is, further, the author’s hope that the book will be useful
+to older students interested in social problems, and that they will
+find in it the elements of the economic principles bearing on their
+solution.
+
+
+THE GREAT PLATEAU OF NORTHERN RHODESIA.
+
+By CULLEN GOULDSBURY AND HERBERT SHEANE,
+
+OF THE BRITISH SOUTH AFRICA COMPANY’S SERVICE.
+
+With Preface by Sir ALFRED SHARPE, K.C.M.G., C.B.
+
+_With 40 pages of Illustrations and a Map. One Volume. Demy 8vo._ =16s.
+net.=
+
+This book has been written about the Tanganyika Plateau of Northern
+Rhodesia, which--though some fifty thousand square miles in extent--is
+still practically unknown, since it has not yet been penetrated, or its
+resources tapped by the Cape to Cairo Railway.
+
+Apart from its abundant natural resources, the excellent climate of the
+Plateau and its high altitude (from 4,000 to 6,000 feet) render it as
+healthy and suitable for white colonization as the far-famed Highlands
+of British East Africa.
+
+The book is divided into two parts, European and Ethnographic. The
+Ethnographic Section is dealt with by Mr. Sheane, who, during the past
+ten years, has made a special study of language and native customs upon
+the Tanganyika Plateau.
+
+The needs of prospective settlers and ranchers are fully discussed, and
+information for sportsmen and travellers is supplied in two chapters
+dealing with elephant-hunting and the species and habits of game, big
+and small, to be found upon the Plateau.
+
+Lastly, the Native chapters should prove of value, not only to
+anthropologists, but also to that increasing body of readers who are
+interested in the problems of native life and of native law and custom
+in Central Africa.
+
+
+HINTS TO SPEAKERS AND PLAYERS.
+
+By ROSINA FILIPPI.
+
+_One Volume. Crown 8vo._ =3s. 6d. net.=
+
+Miss Rosina Filippi is an actress well known to, and deservedly popular
+with, the playgoing public of Great Britain. The excellent work she has
+done in teaching the younger members of her profession has evoked the
+admiration of her colleagues who recognize her claims to a front place
+on the English stage which she has long adorned. She has, indeed, won
+a deservedly high reputation as a teacher of dramatic art, and many
+are the students who have profited by her instruction and owe their
+success to her ripe experience. “Hints to Speakers and Players” is,
+as its name implies, a guide or handbook to all who desire to attain
+proficiency in the art of speaking or acting. In this work the author
+offers invaluable advice upon such subjects as Elocution, Diction,
+Gesticulation, Ranting, etc., not only to would-be actors, but also to
+Members of Parliament, orators, clergymen, and all who may be called
+upon to deliver speeches on the political platform, in the pulpit, or
+at the dinner-table. Her facile pen ranges over the wide field of her
+experience and deals in a light but informing fashion with a hundred
+matters that must inevitably prove interesting to all who are compelled
+to raise their voices in public.
+
+
+THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY AND LIFE OF FATHER TYRRELL.
+
+By MAUD PETRE.
+
+_In Two Volumes. Demy 8vo., cloth._ =21s. net.=
+
+The first volume, which is autobiographical, will cover the period
+from George Tyrrell’s birth in 1861 to the year 1885, including an
+account of his family, his childhood, schooldays, and youth in Dublin;
+his conversion from Agnosticism, through a phase of High Church
+Protestantism to Catholicism; his experiences in Cyprus and Malta,
+where he lived as a probationer before entering the Society of Jesus;
+his early life as a Jesuit, with his novitiate and first studies in
+scholastic philosophy and Thomism. This autobiography, written in 1901,
+ends just before the death of his mother, and was not carried any
+farther. It is edited with notes and supplements to each chapter by M.
+D. Petre.
+
+The second volume, which takes up the story where the first ends,
+deals chiefly with the storm and stress period of his later years.
+Large use is made of his own notes, and of his letters, of which a
+great number have been lent by correspondents of all shades of thought.
+Various documents of importance figure in this later volume, in which
+the editor aims at making the history as complete and objective as
+possible. Incidentally some account is given of the general movement
+of thought, which has been loosely described as “modernism,” but the
+chief aim of the writer will be to describe the part which Father
+Tyrrell himself played in this movement, and the successive stages of
+his mental development as he brought his scholastic training to bear on
+the modern problems that confronted him. The work ends with his death
+on July 15, 1909, and the events immediately subsequent to his death.
+The date of publication is uncertain, but will be announced as soon as
+possible.
+
+
+THE PARTING OF THE WAYS.
+
+Essays on Judaism and Christian Origins.
+
+By GRADUATES OF JESUS COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE.
+
+Edited by Dr. F. J. FOAKES-JACKSON.
+
+With an Introduction by the Very Rev. W. R. INGE, D.D., DEAN OF ST.
+PAUL’S.
+
+_One Volume. Demy 8vo._ =10s. 6d. net.=
+
+Several volumes of Theological Essays have appeared from the two
+ancient Universities, but none hitherto by members of a single college.
+Jesus College, Cambridge, has, however, had exceptional opportunities
+for encouraging the study of Divinity, owing to the fact that of recent
+years it has numbered two Lady Margaret Professors among the fellows,
+and has been generously endowed by the late Lord Justice Kay, who
+founded scholarships for post-graduate study in Theology.
+
+The object of these essays is to trace the origin of Christianity
+from Judaism, and its development till the final parting of the two
+religions. With the exception of the Introduction and Essays I.
+and III., all the writers have taken their degrees quite recently,
+and though they have obtained high honours at the University, the
+volume must be judged as a young men’s book. As such it may prove the
+more interesting as illustrating the ideas of some of our younger
+theologians. The essays are not the product of any school, but
+represent all shades of thought in the Church of England, whilst one is
+written by a Nonconformist, and another by a Jewish scholar. All the
+essayists have, however, been the pupils of the editor, and most have
+come under the influence of the Dean of St. Paul’s.
+
+
+HOW TO DEAL WITH MEN.
+
+By the Rev. PETER GREEN, M.A.,
+
+RECTOR OF ST. PHILIP’S, SALFORD, AND CANON OF MANCHESTER.
+
+AUTHOR OF “HOW TO DEAL WITH LADS,” ETC.
+
+_One Volume. Crown 8vo._ =2s. 6d. net.=
+
+
+Beginning with chapters on the nature of work among men, and the
+special needs of the present time, and on the type of man required
+for success in this kind of work, the author goes on to treat in
+detail such subjects as the Men’s Bible-Class; the various methods for
+promoting its success; the different kinds of work which should spring
+out of the work of the class; and some of the commoner dangers to be
+watched and guarded against. Following the chapters on the Bible-Class
+and its developments, come chapters on social and recreative work,
+such as that of the Men’s Club and the minor clubs in connection with
+it, temperance benefit societies, and social and parochial work for
+men. The second part of the book is devoted to a detailed treatment
+of personal work with individual men. Methods with men troubled with
+religious doubt, or with other intellectual difficulties, and methods
+of dealing with various moral problems, are carefully and fully
+discussed.
+
+
+THE FAITH OF AN AVERAGE MAN.
+
+By the Rev. CHARLES H. S. MATTHEWS, M.A.,
+
+AUTHOR OF “A PARSON IN THE AUSTRALIAN BUSH,” ETC.
+
+_One Volume. Crown 8vo._ =3s. 6d. net.=
+
+The author is profoundly convinced that on the one hand the endless
+restlessness of modern life is a witness to man’s need of a vital
+faith, and on the other that the continued vitality of the historic
+Church of England is in itself a proof of her power to meet this
+fundamental need of men. The position he occupies, and would in this
+book commend to others, may best be described as a kind of progressive
+Catholicism, a true _via media_ between an exclusive Protestantism on
+the one hand, which seems to him to be founded on a view of the Bible
+no longer tenable, and an equally exclusive Catholicism on the other,
+which in its turn seems to be founded on a no less untenable view of
+the Church. It is the author’s hope that his appeal may be read, not
+only by laymen, but also by the younger clergy.
+
+
+THE CHURCH AND MODERN PROBLEMS.
+
+By the Rev. C. F. GARBETT, M.A.,
+
+VICAR OF PORTSEA.
+
+_One Volume. Crown 8vo._ =3s. 6d. net.=
+
+An interesting volume, composed of addresses mainly delivered in the
+course of the author’s ordinary parochial work during the last two
+years. They are all united by the attempt to state the attitude of
+the Church to some of the many modern problems of religious thought
+and action. Among these are Modernism, Rationalism, Agnosticism, the
+Higher Criticism, Inspiration, the Reunion of Christendom, Divorce,
+Temperance Reform, and Socialism. The attitude of the Church to all
+these tremendous intellectual, moral, and social problems is briefly
+argued and discussed with tact and ability.
+
+
+THE MIND OF ST. PAUL:
+
+As Illustrated by his Second Epistle to the Corinthians.
+
+By Canon H. L. GOUDGE, D.D.
+
+PRINCIPAL OF ELY THEOLOGICAL COLLEGE.
+
+_One Volume. Crown 8vo._ =2s. 6d. net.=
+
+
+A GOODLY FELLOWSHIP
+
+Thoughts in Verse and Prose from many Sources.
+
+Collected by ROSE E. SELFE.
+
+With a Preface by His Grace the ARCHBISHOP OF CANTERBURY.
+
+_One Volume. Small 8vo._ =2s. 6d. net.=
+
+This small religious anthology has been compiled in the hope that
+the various suggestions and counsels, the voices of praise and
+aspiration, and the poets’ visions of the past, present, and future
+may come through the windows of the soul, which are open to receive
+them with comfort, encouragement, and inspiration. The passages are
+grouped under the following headings: Religion in Childhood, Our Human
+Life, Sorrow and Suffering, On Prayer, Aspiration and Communion, The
+Incarnate Christ, Christian Seasons, Old Age, Death and After. But
+there are no hard and fast divisions, and many of the extracts might be
+appropriately classed under two or more of these headings. More than
+seventy authors have been laid under contribution, including some as
+widely separated in time as Boethius, Thomas Traherne, William Law,
+Christina Rossetti, the present Dean of St. Paul’s (Dr. W. R. Inge),
+and Mr. G. K. Chesterton.
+
+
+_New and Cheaper Edition._
+
+SCOTTISH GARDENS.
+
+By the Right Hon. Sir HERBERT MAXWELL, Bart.
+
+_With 32 Coloured Plates from Pastel Drawings especially done for this
+work by_
+
+Miss M. G. W. WILSON,
+
+MEMBER OF THE PASTEL SOCIETY AND OF THE SCOTTISH SOCIETY OF ARTISTS
+
+_New Edition. Medium 8vo._ =7s. 6d. net.=
+
+It was not originally intended that this charming work, of which both
+the Edition de Luxe and the ordinary Edition were sold out two months
+after publication, should be reprinted. So persistent, however, have
+been the inquiries for it that it has been decided to re-issue it in a
+cheaper edition, but with all the original plates. The success of the
+book in the first instance may be attributed both to the attractiveness
+of the subject and to the harmonious combination of artistic and
+literary skill which characterized it, and these features will in no
+sense be modified in the new edition.
+
+
+_A New Edition Revised._
+
+A BOOK ABOUT ROSES.
+
+By the late Very Rev. S. REYNOLDS HOLE,
+
+DEAN OF ROCHESTER.
+
+_With Coloured Plates. Crown 8vo._ =3s. 6d.=
+
+This edition contains the Dean’s latest corrections of his famous
+book, a new chapter on “Progress” up to the present time by Dr. Alfred
+Williams, Member of Committee of the National Rose Society, and a
+full and up-to-date list of roses compiled and classified by the same
+competent hand.
+
+
+NEW FICTION.
+
+
+TANTE.
+
+By ANNE DOUGLAS SEDGWICK
+
+(Mrs. Basil de Sélincourt),
+
+AUTHOR OF “FRANKLIN KANE,” “VALÉRIE UPTON,” ETC.
+
+_One Volume. Crown 8vo._ =6s.=
+
+A deeply interesting book, which, it is believed, will be considered by
+far the most powerful work the author has accomplished. It is a long
+story, but the interest never flags, and the plot culminates in an
+exceedingly dramatic way.
+
+
+THE BRACKNELS.
+
+By FORREST REID.
+
+_One Volume. Crown 8vo._ =6s.=
+
+This is an interesting novel describing the fortunes of an Irish
+family, into the midst of which comes Mr. Rusk, a young English tutor.
+Each member of the family is well and distinctly portrayed, and there
+is an under-current of mysticism of a distinctly uncanny tendency.
+Denis, a boy of sixteen, the pupil of Mr. Rusk, is a particularly
+charming figure, who contrasts sharply with some of the other members
+of the Bracknel family.
+
+
+A ROMANCE OF THE SIMPLE.
+
+By MARY J. H. SKRINE.
+
+AUTHOR OF “A STEPSON OF THE SOIL.”
+
+6s.
+
+
+MORE GHOST STORIES.
+
+By Dr. M. R. JAMES,
+
+PROVOST OF KING’S COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE.
+
+AUTHOR OF “GHOST STORIES OF AN ANTIQUARY,” ETC.
+
+_Medium 8vo._ =6s.=
+
+
+THE MOTTO OF MRS. McLANE.
+
+The Story of an American Farm.
+
+By SHIRLEY CARSON.
+
+_One Volume. Crown 8vo._ =3s. 6d.=
+
+A very clever piece of character drawing; the scene is laid in a
+Western American farm, where the McLane family have been settled for a
+considerable number of years. Life on the farm at various seasons is
+painted in vivid and attractive colours, but the feature of the story
+is the shrewd homely wit of Mrs. McLane and her neighbours. Their
+conversations remind one of the success of “Mrs. Wiggs of the Cabbage
+Patch,” and are so clever and spontaneous that they cannot fail to be
+thoroughly enjoyed by all readers.
+
+
+LOVE IN BLACK.
+
+By Sir H. HESKETH BELL, K.C.M.G.,
+
+GOVERNOR OF NORTHERN NIGERIA.
+
+_One Volume. Medium 8vo._ =6s.=
+
+This volume contains a number of sketches of native life in West
+Africa, in the garb of fiction. No one has had better opportunities
+than the author of penetrating the veil of mystery and fetish that
+enshrouds the inner life of the native, and no one has drawn their
+characters with a more sympathetic and romantic hand. The titles of
+the sketches give some idea of the contents of the volume. Among them
+are “The Fetish Mountain of Krobo,” “The Yam Custom,” “The Tale of a
+Tail-Girl,” “His Highness Prince Kwakoo,” “On Her Majesty’s Service,”
+“A Woman of Ashanti.”
+
+
+STEAM TURBINE DESIGN:
+
+With Especial Reference to the Reaction Type.
+
+By JOHN MORROW, M.Sc., D.Eng.,
+
+LECTURER IN ENGINEERING, ARMSTRONG COLLEGE, NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE.
+
+_Demy 8vo. Fully illustrated with 150 Diagrams and 9 Folding Plates._
+
+Since the days of Watt no greater revolution has taken place in steam
+machinery than the advent of the turbine. In the face of the greatest
+difficulties it was introduced by the Hon. Sir Charles A. Parsons
+both for marine and electrical work, and with the success of the s.s.
+_Lusitania_ and _Mauretania_ the public for the first time realized
+that it had come to stay. Many books, both of description and theory,
+have been written on the steam turbine, yet up to the present few have
+been devoted definitely to its design. In the present volume Dr. Morrow
+gives a clear explanation of the principles and practice of turbine
+design and construction as followed out in the drawing-office and
+engineering workshop.
+
+
+LONDON: EDWARD ARNOLD, 41 & 43 MADDOX STREET, W.
+
+
+
+
+  Transcriber's Notes:
+
+  Italics are shown thus: _sloping_.
+
+  Variations in spelling and hyphenation are retained.
+
+  Perceived typographical errors have been changed.
+
+
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76274 ***