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+ text-indent: 0; + margin: .75em 0 0 0; + font-size: .9em; +} +div.tb+p.speaker {margin-top: 0;} +p.dialog { + padding: 0 0 0 0; + margin-top: 0; + text-indent: 0; + font-size: .9em; + text-align: left; +} +.flora {font-style: italic;} + + /* ]]> */ </style> +</head> + +<body> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76057 ***</div> + +<div class="transnote section"> +<p class="center larger">Transcriber’s Note</p> + +<p>Larger, higher-quality versions of most illustrations may be seen by +clicking <i>“(Large)”</i> below them, or right-clicking that option and +opening the larger image in a new tab or window.</p> + +<p><a href="#Transcribers_Notes">Additional notes</a> will be found near the end of this ebook.</p> +<div> </div> +</div> + +<div class="section"> +<figure id="cover-small" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 25em;"> + <img src="images/cover-small.jpg" width="538" height="845" alt="book-cover"> +</figure> +<div> </div> +</div> + +<div class="section"> +<figure id="i_map" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 50em;"> + <img src="images/i_map.jpg" width="1005" height="826" alt="map"> + <figcaption class="large"> + <a href="images/i_map_large.jpg">(Large)</a> + </figcaption> +</figure> +<div> </div> +</div> + +<div class="section center p4"> +<h1>LONDON PARKS AND GARDENS</h1> +<div> </div> +</div> + +<div class="section center"> +<figure id="i_p01c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 42em;"> + <img src="images/i_p001c.jpg" width="665" height="556" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p001c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + ST. KATHARINE’S LODGE, REGENT’S PARK + </figcaption> +</figure> +<div> </div> +</div> + +<div class="section center wspace p2"> +<p class="xxlarge vspace"> +LONDON PARKS AND<br>GARDENS</p> + +<p class="p2 vspace"><span class="small">BY</span><br> +<span class="large">THE HON<sup>BLE</sup> MRS. EVELYN CECIL</span></p> +<p class="smaller">(ALICIA AMHERST)<br> +<span class="smcap">Citizen and Gardener of London</span></p> + +<p class="p1 small">AUTHOR OF “A HISTORY OF GARDENING IN ENGLAND”<br> +“CHILDREN’S GARDENS,” ETC.</p> + +<p class="p2 vspace"><span class="small">WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY</span><br> +<span class="large">LADY VICTORIA MANNERS</span></p> + +<p class="p2">“<i>Reade the whole and then judge</i>”<br> + +<span class="in4 smaller"><span class="smcap">John Christopherson</span>,<br> +<span class="in10">Bishop of Chichester, 1554</span></span></p> + +<p class="p2 larger">NEW YORK<br> +E. P. DUTTON AND COMPANY<br> +1907</p> +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div> </div> +</div> + +<div class="section center p4 vspace"> +<p class="smaller"> +Printed by<br> +<span class="smcap">Ballantyne, Hanson & Co.</span><br> +Edinburgh +</p> +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div> </div> +</div> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_v">v</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="PREFACE">PREFACE</h2> + +<p class="in0"><span class="smcap">In</span> spite of the abundance of books on London, not +one exists which tells the story of the Parks and +Gardens as a whole. Some of the Royal Parks have +been dealt with, and most of the Municipal Parks, but +in separate works. When Squares are touched on, in +guide-books, or in volumes to themselves, the Gardens +are for the most part left alone, and gossip of the +inhabitants forms the centre of the narrative. This is +the case also with public buildings and private houses +which have gardens attached to them. To give a +sketch of the history of the more important Parks and +Gardens, and to point out any features of horticultural +interest, is the object of the following pages. London +is such a wide word, and means such a different area +at various periods, that it has been necessary to make +some hard and fast rule to define the scope of this +work. I have, therefore, decided to keep strictly to +the limits of the County of London within the official +boundaries of the London County Council at the present +time.</p> + +<p>I would express my thanks to the authorities of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_vi">vi</span> +Parks, both Royal and Municipal, for their courtesy in +affording me information, and to many friends who +have facilitated my search in historical and private +gardens. I am also extremely grateful to my friend, +Miss Margaret MacArthur, who has assisted me in the +tedious task of correcting proofs. The lists of trees +and shrubs, and of plants in the beds in Hyde Park, were +kindly drawn up for me by the Park Superintendent, +the late Mr. Jordan, with the consent of H.M. Office +of Works.</p> + +<p class="right"> +ALICIA M. CECIL. +</p> + +<p class="p0 in0 in1"> +10 <span class="smcap">Eaton Place</span>,<br> +<span class="in1"><i>August 1907</i>.</span> +</p> +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +</div> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_vii">vii</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS</h2> + +<table id="toc"> +<tr class="xsmall"> + <td class="tdc">CHAP.</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">PAGE</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr top">I.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Introductory</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_1">1</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr top">II.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Hyde Park</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_23">23</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr top">III.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">St. James’s and Green Parks</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_56">56</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr top">IV.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Regent’s Park</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_83">83</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr top">V.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Greenwich Park</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_106">106</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr top">VI.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Municipal Parks</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_119">119</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr top">VII.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">South London Parks</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_155">155</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr top">VIII.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Commons and Open Spaces</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_185">185</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr top">IX.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Squares</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_217">217</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr top">X.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Burial-Grounds</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_242">242</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr top">XI.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Inns of Court</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_261">261</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr top">XII.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Historical Gardens</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_289">289</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr top">XIII.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Private Gardens</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_327">327</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Appendix to Private Gardens: Charlton</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_357">357</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">List of some of the Works Consulted</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_361">361</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens: List of Trees and Shrubs</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_368">368</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td class="tdl">INDEX</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#toclink_377">377</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +</div> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_ix">ix</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + +<table id="loi"> +<tr> + <td class="tdc chap" colspan="2">COLOURED PLATES</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl norpad" colspan="2"><span class="smcap">St. Katharine’s Lodge, Regent’s Park</span> +<span class="fright"><a href="#i_p01c"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr class="xsmall"> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr"><i>Page</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Dolphin Fountain, Hyde Park</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p38c">38</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Autumn Beds, Hyde Park</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p46c">46</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Fountain by Countess Feodor Gleichen, Hyde Park</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p54c">54</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Crocuses in Early Spring, St. James’s Park</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p64c">64</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Autumn in Regent’s Park</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p90c">90</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Spring in Regent’s Park</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p102c">102</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Waterlow Park</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p148c">148</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Old English Garden, Brockwell Park</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p172c">172</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Statue of Pitt, Hanover Square</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p220c">220</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Statue of William III. in St. James’s Square</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p226c">226</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">St. Paul’s Churchyard</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p250c">250</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Bank Garden</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p258c">258</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Inner Temple Garden</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p270c">270</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Fountain Court, Middle Temple</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p276c">276</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Lincoln’s Inn</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p280c">280</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Garden Gates, Gray’s Inn</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p288c">288</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Grey Coat School, Westminster</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p298c">298</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Little Cloister, Westminster Abbey</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p302c">302</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Herbaceous Border, Lambeth Palace</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p306c">306</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_x">x</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Statue of Charles II., Chelsea Hospital</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p312c">312</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Chelsea Physic Garden</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p324c">324</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Garden of Sir Laurence Alma-Tadema, R.A.</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p334c">334</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Lily Pond, Holland House</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p340c">340</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">St. John’s Lodge, Regent’s Park</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p346c">347</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdc chap" colspan="2">IN THE TEXT</td> +</tr> +<tr class="xsmall"> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">PAGE</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Dolphin Fountain in Hyde Park</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p39">39</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Fountains at the End of the Serpentine</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p43">43</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">A Corner of the Queen Victoria Memorial Gardens</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p81">81</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Stone Vase in Regent’s Park</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p101">101</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Pagoda on the Island, Victoria Park</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p138">138</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Stoke Newington Church from Clissold Park</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p143">143</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Fountain by Tinworth, Kennington Park</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p167">167</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Statue of Mrs. Siddons, Paddington Green</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p214">214</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Winter Garden, Duke Street, Grosvenor Square</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p220">220</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Sun-dial, St. Botolph’s</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p256">256</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Trinity Almshouses, Mile End Road</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p293">293</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Abbey Garden, Westminster</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p301">301</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Garden Gate, Chelsea Hospital</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p314">314</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">In the Garden, St. John’s Lodge</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_p349">349</a></td> +</tr> +</table> +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +</div> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">1</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="London_Parks_Gardens"><span id="toclink_1"></span><span class="larger">London Parks & Gardens</span></h2> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_I"><span class="gesperrt">CHAPTER I</span><br> + +<span class="subhead">INTRODUCTORY</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>London, thou art the Flour of cities all.</i></div> + </div> + <div class="attrib">—<span class="smcap">William Dunbar</span>, 1465–1530.</div> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="idc idc idcL"><img src="images/i_idc_l.png" width="176" height="180" alt="L"> +<span class="firstword">London</span> has a peculiar fascination +of its own, and to a vast number +of English-speaking people all +over the world it appeals with +irresistible force. So much has +been said and written about it +that the theme might seem to be +worn out, yet there are still fresh +aspects to present, still hidden charms to discover, still +deep problems to solve. The huge, unwieldly mass, +which cannot be managed or legislated for as other +towns, but has to be treated as a county, enfolds within +its area all the phases of human life. It embraces every +gradation from wealth to poverty, from the millionaire +to the pauper alien. The collection of buildings which +together make London are a most singular assortment +of innumerable variations between beauty and ugliness, +between palaces and works of art and hovels of sordid +and unlovely squalor.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">2</span></p> + +<p>An Englishman must be almost without soul who +can stand for the first time unmoved within the precincts +of Westminster Abbey or look without satisfaction +at the faultless proportions of St. Paul’s. The sense of +possession, the pride of inheritance, are the uppermost +feelings in his mind. But he who loves not only +London itself with a patriotic veneration, but also his +fellow-men, will not rest with the inspection of the +beautiful. He will journey eastward into the heart of +the mighty city, and see its seething millions at work, +its dismal poverty, its relentless hardness. The responsibility +of heirship comes over him, the sadness, the +pathos, the evil of it all depresses him, the hopelessness +of the contrast overpowers him; but apart from all +ideas of social reform, from legislative action or philanthropic +theories, there is one thin line of colour +running through the gloomy picture. The parks and +gardens of London form bright spots in the landscape. +They are beyond the pale of controversy; they appeal +to all sections of the community, to the workers as +well as to the idlers, to the rich as well as to the +poor, to the thoughtful as well as to the careless. +From the utilitarian point of view they are essential. +They bring new supplies of oxygen, and allow the freer +circulation of health-giving fresh air. They are not +less useful as places of exercise and recreation. They +waft a breath of nature where it is most needed, and +the part they play in brightening the lives of countless +thousands cannot be over-estimated.</p> + +<p>The parks and gardens of London have a past full +of historical associations, and at the present time their +full importance is slowly being realised. Much has +been done to improve and beautify them, but much<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">3</span> +remains to be achieved in that direction before their +capabilities will have been thoroughly developed. The +opportunity is great, and if only the best use can be +made of it London Parks could be the most beautiful +as well as the most useful in the world. It is impossible +to praise or criticise them collectively, as they have +different origins, are administered by separate bodies, +and have distinct functions to perform. It cannot be +denied that the laying out in some and the planting in +other cases could be improved. Plans could be carried +out with more taste than is sometimes shown, and new +ideas be encouraged, but on the whole there is so much +that is excellent and well done that there is a great deal +to be proud of.</p> + +<p>The various open spaces in London can easily be +grouped into classes. First there are the Royal Parks, +with a history and management of their own; then there +are all the Parks either created or kept up by the London +County Council, and most of the commons and other +large open spaces are in their jurisdiction also, though +a few parks and recreation grounds are under the +borough councils. Municipal bodies for the most +part take charge of all the disused burial grounds converted +into gardens, though some are maintained by +the parish or the rector. Then there is another class +of garden which must be included, namely, all the +squares of London, as, although few are open to the +public, they form no insignificant proportion of the +unbuilt area.</p> + +<p>All through London there are survivals of old +gardens, which are still either quiet and concealed, or +thrown open to the public. Such are the grounds of +the Charterhouse, of Chelsea Hospital, or of the Foundling<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">4</span> +Hospital, and of other old-world haunts of peace. The +rarest thing in London are the private gardens, yet they +too go to make up the aggregate lungs of the city. +Out of a total of upwards of 75,000 acres there are +in round numbers some 6000 acres of parks, commons, +squares, and open spaces in London: of these +a little over 4000 acres are in the hands of the London +County Council. Besides this it administers nearly +900 acres outside the county. The City of London +owns large forest tracts, commons, and parks beyond +the limit of the County of London—Epping, Burnham +Beeches, Highgate Wood, and parks in West Ham, +Kilburn, &c.—altogether nearly 6500 acres.</p> + +<p>London is such a wide word, it is difficult to set a +limit, and to decide what open spaces actually belong +to London. As the town stretches away into the +country, it is impossible to see the boundaries of London. +The line must be drawn near where the chimney-pots +become incessant, and the stems of the trees become +black. But the degree of blackness, dirt, and density +is impossible to decide; so a prosaic, matter-of-fact, but +necessary rule has been adhered to in the following pages, +of keeping as strictly as possible to the actual defined +limits of the County of London. Therefore all the parks +owned by the City Corporation or London County +Council outside this limit have not been dealt with, and +such places as Chiswick, Kew, Richmond, or Gunnersbury +have been omitted.</p> + +<p>To get to some of these places involves a considerable +journey. Many of the outlying parks have to be +reached by train, or by a very long drive, or tram ride. +From Hyde Park Corner, for instance, to Bostall Wood +or Avery Hill is a long expedition. To the fortunate<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">5</span> +few who possess motor cars the distances are trifling, but +the vast majority of people must exercise considerable +ingenuity, and possess a good bump of locality, if they +wish to visit all London’s open spaces. A knowledge +of the distant places, the names of which are inscribed +in large letters on every omnibus, is necessary. The +Royal Oak, Elephant and Castle, or Angel, are but +starting-places for the more distant routes, although +they form the goal of green, red, or blue ’busses. The +electric trams of South London have made the approach +to Dulwich, Peckham, Greenwich, and many other parks +much more simple, and motor ’busses rattle along close to +even the distant Golder’s Hill or Highbury Fields. With +a railway time-table, a good eye for colour in selecting +the right omnibus, and a knowledge of the points of the +compass, every green patch in London can be reached +with ease, even by those whose purses are not long +enough to let them indulge in motors, or whose nerves +are not steady enough to let them venture on bicycles.</p> + +<p>Each park forms the central point of some large +district, and they are not dependent on the casual visitor +for appreciation. Every single green spot, on a fine +Saturday throughout the year, is peopled with a crowd +from the neighbourhood, and on every day in the year, +winter as well as summer, almost every open space has +a ceaseless throng of comers and goers.</p> + +<p>What is the cost of maintenance of these parks is a +question that will naturally occur; and the answer in +many cases is easy to find, as the statistics of both the +London County Council Parks, published in their handbook, +and those of the Royal Parks, which are submitted +to Parliament every year, are accessible. The following +extracts may, however, be useful. In looking at the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">6</span> +two sets of figures, of course the acreage must be borne +in mind, and the great expense of police in the Royal +Parks, amounting to £8782 for Hyde Park alone, must +be deducted before any fair comparison can be made, +even when results are not considered.</p> + +<table id="t6a" class="blbr"> +<tr class="bt bb"> + <td rowspan="2"></td> + <td class="tdc" colspan="6">1907–8.</td> + <td class="tdc"><span class="locked">1906–7.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr class="bt bb"> + <td class="tdc"> Acres.</td> + <td class="tdc"> Wages and Salaries.</td> + <td class="tdc"> Police, Park-keepers.</td> + <td class="tdc"> New Works and Alterations.</td> + <td class="tdc"> Mainte-<br>nance.</td> + <td class="tdc"> Total.</td> + <td class="tdc"> Total.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdc"> £</td> + <td class="tdc"> £</td> + <td class="tdc"> £</td> + <td class="tdc"> £</td> + <td class="tdc"> £</td> + <td class="tdc"> £</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">1. Greenwich</td> + <td class="tdc"> 185 </td> + <td class="tdc"> 225</td> + <td class="tdc"> 1,090</td> + <td class="tdc"> 175</td> + <td class="tdc"> 3,737</td> + <td class="tdc"> 5,319</td> + <td class="tdc"> 4,554</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"> {Hyde Park }<br>2. { St. James’s }<br> { Green Park }</td> + <td class="tdc"> 509½</td> + <td class="tdc"> 724</td> + <td class="tdc"> 12,153</td> + <td class="tdc"> 4,965</td> + <td class="tdc"> 50,886</td> + <td class="tdc"> 69,269</td> + <td class="tdc"> 48,835</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">3. Kensington<br> Gardens</td> + <td class="tdc"> 274 </td> + <td class="tdc"> 138</td> + <td class="tdc"> 1,590</td> + <td class="tdc"> 50</td> + <td class="tdc"> 5,831</td> + <td class="tdc"> 7,730</td> + <td class="tdc"> 7,804</td> +</tr> +<tr class="bb"> + <td class="tdl"> {Regent’s Park}<br>4. { and }<br> {Primrose Hill }</td> + <td class="tdc"> 472½</td> + <td class="tdc"> 290</td> + <td class="tdc"> 2,171</td> + <td class="tdc"> 300</td> + <td class="tdc"> 11,417</td> + <td class="tdc"> 14,542</td> + <td class="tdc"> 13,329</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p class="b1 center"> +<cite>Taken from the Estimates for 1907–8.</cite> +</p> + +<table id="t6b" class="blbr"> +<tr class="bt bb"> + <td></td> + <td class="tdc"> Acres.</td> + <td class="tdc"> Net Aggregate Capital Expenditure.</td> + <td class="tdc"> Average Cost of Maintenance.</td> + <td class="tdc"> Number of Staff.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"></td> + <td class="tdc"></td> + <td class="tdc"> £</td> + <td class="tdc"> £</td> + <td class="tdc"></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Battersea</td> + <td class="tdc"> 199 </td> + <td class="tdc"> 21,042</td> + <td class="tdc"> 10,897 </td> + <td class="tdc"> 92</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Brockwell</td> + <td class="tdc"> 127¼</td> + <td class="tdc"> 114,322</td> + <td class="tdc"> 4,493</td> + <td class="tdc"> 34</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Dulwich</td> + <td class="tdc"> 72 </td> + <td class="tdc"> 45,510</td> + <td class="tdc"> 3,330</td> + <td class="tdc"> 28</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Finsbury</td> + <td class="tdc"> 115 </td> + <td class="tdc"> 137,934</td> + <td class="tdc"> 7,649</td> + <td class="tdc"> 52</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Victoria</td> + <td class="tdc"> 217 </td> + <td class="tdc"> 38,430</td> + <td class="tdc"> 12,099 </td> + <td class="tdc"> 107 </td> +</tr> +<tr class="bb"> + <td class="tdl">Waterlow</td> + <td class="tdc"> 26</td> + <td class="tdc"> 11,178</td> + <td class="tdc"> 2,658</td> + <td class="tdc"> 24</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p class="b1 center"> +<cite>Taken from L.C.C. Handbook No. 1009, 1906.</cite> +</p> + +<p>London has always been a city of gardens, and +although much boast is made of the newly-acquired +open spaces, a wail for those destroyed would have equal +justification. It is very terrible that everything in life<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">7</span> +has to be learnt by slow and hard lessons, dearly purchased +under the iron rod of experience. It is not till +the want of a green spot is brought painfully home to +people by its loss, that the thought of saving the last +remaining speck of greenery is borne in upon them with +sufficient force to transform the wish into action. For +generations garden after garden has passed into building +land. No one has a right to grudge the wealth or prosperity +that has accrued in consequence, but the wish that +the benevolence and foresight of past days had taken a +different bent, and that a more systematic retention of +some of the town gardens had received attention, cannot +be banished.</p> + +<p>When Roman civilisation had been swept away in +Britain, and with it all vestiges of the earliest gardens, +there are no vestiges of horticulture until Christianity had +taken hold of the country, and religious houses were +rising up in various parts of the kingdom. The cradle +of modern gardening may be said to have been within +the peaceful walls of these monastic foundations. In no +part of the country were they more numerous than in +and around London, and it is probable that every establishment +had its garden for the supply of vegetables, and +more particularly medicinal herbs. Attached to most +of them, there was also a special garden for the production +of flowers for decoration on church festivals. It is +probable that the earliest London gardens were of this +monastic character, and as long as the buildings were +maintained the gardens were in existence. The Grey, +the Black, the White, and the Austin Friars all had +gardens within their enclosures; and the Hospitaller +Orders—the Templars and Knights of St. John—had +large gardens within their precincts. The Temple<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">8</span> +Garden is still one of the charms of London, but only +the old gateway of the Priory of St. John in Clerkenwell +remains, and the garden, with all its historical +associations, has long since vanished. It was in a small +upper room, “next the garden in the Hospital of St. +John of Jerusalem in England, without the bars of +West Smythfield,” that Henry VII., in the first year +of his reign, gave the Great Seal to John Morton, +Bishop of Ely, and appointed him Chancellor, and he +“carried the seal with him” to his house, Ely Place, +hard by.<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">1</a> These small references show the picturesque +side of such events, the gardens constantly being the +background of the scenes.</p> + +<p>It is only one more of the regrettable results of the +barbarous way in which the Reformation was carried out +in England, that the gardens shared the fate of the +stately buildings round whose sheltering walls they +flourished. It is not easy to picture the desolation of +those days: the unkept, uncared-for garden, trodden +under foot, makes the forlorn aspect of the despoiled +monasteries more pathetic.</p> + +<p>London was a city of palaces in Plantagenet times, +and the great nobles had their gardens near or surrounding +their castles. Bayard’s Castle, facing the river for +centuries, had its gardens, and there were spacious +gardens within the precincts of the Tower when it was +the chief royal residence in London, and outside the +walls of the City fine dwellings and large gardens were +clustered together. Among the most famous in the +thirteenth century was the Earl of Lincoln’s, purchased +from the Dominicans, when they outgrew their demesne +in Holborn, and migrated to the riverside, where their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">9</span> +memory ever lives under their popular name of the Black +Friars. Minute accounts of the expenses of this garden +are preserved in the Manor Roll, and a very fairly +accurate picture of what it was can be pieced together. +The chief flowers in it were roses, and the choicest to +be found at that date, the sweet-scented double red +“rosa gallica,” would be in profusion. It might be that, +in the shady corners of the garden, periwinkle trailed +upon the ground, and violets perfumed the air. White +Madonna lilies reared their stately heads among the +clove pinks, lavender, and thyme. Peonies, columbines, +hollyhocks, honeysuckle, corncockles, and iris, +white, purple, and yellow, made no mean show. The +orchard could boast of many kinds of pears and apples, +cherries and nuts. A piece of water described as “the +greater ditch”<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">2</a> formed the fish stew where pike were +kept and artificially fed. Besides all this, there was a +considerable vineyard. It was thought a favourable spot +for vines, and the Bishop of Ely’s vineyard, the site of +which is still remembered by Vine Street, was hard by. +A good deal of imagination is now required to conjure +up a picture of a vintage in Holborn. Amid the crowd +of cabs, carts, carriages, and omnibuses rolling all +day over the Viaduct from Oxford Street to the heart of +the City, it needs as fertile a brain as that of the poet +who pictured the vision of poor Susan as she listens +to the song of the bird in Wood Street to call up such +a scene. The gardens sloping down to the “bourne” +were carefully enclosed—the Earl of Lincoln’s by strong +wooden palings, that of Ely Place by a thorn hedge +with wooden gates fitted with keys and locks.<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">3</a> The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">10</span> +inner gardens, that were specially reserved for the Bishop, +the great garden and the “grassyard,” were separated by +railings and locked doors from the vineyard. The +“grassyard” was mown, and a tithe of the proceeds +from the sale of the grass paid to the Rector of St. +Andrew’s, Holborn. The wine produced was more +of the character of vinegar, and was also sold; as much +as thirty gallons of this “verjuice” was produced in +one year. Extra hands were hired to weed and dress +the vineyard, and apparently the vineyard entailed a +good deal of trouble, and for many years it was let. +Think of a warm day in early autumn, clusters of grapes +hanging from the twisted vines, men and women in gay +colours carrying baskets of ripe fruit to the vats where +they were trodden, and the crimson juice squeezed out; +the mellow rays of the sinking sun light up the high +walls and many towers of the City, and the distant pile +of Westminster is half hidden by the mists rising from +the river, while there, too, the vintage is in full swing, +and the song<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">4</a> of the grape-gatherers breaks the stillness +of the October evening. Away to the north the landscape +is bounded by the wooded heights of Hampstead +and Highgate. Most of the country round London +then was forest land, and in spite of the changes of +centuries a few acres of the original forest remain in +Highgate Woods to this day, now owned by the Corporation +of London. Between the hills and the city on the +north-east lay the marshy ground known as Moorfields, +for some 800 years the favourite resort of Londoners +wishing to take the air. Gradually this open space +has been built over, although a few green patches, such +as Finsbury Square, the Artillery Ground, or the more<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">11</span> +distant Bunhill Fields, have remained through the changes +time has wrought. This space might have been like +one of the other heaths or commons of London, a +beautiful open space in the heart of the town, but the +supposed exigencies of modern civilisation, with the usual +want of foresight, have banished the life-giving fresh air, +and the Corporation of London has had to go far afield, +to Burnham Beeches and Epping Forest, to supply what +once was at its door. Literally at its door, as the +busy street of Moorgate recalls the Mayor, Thomas +Falconer by name, who in 1415 “caused the wall of +the citie to be broken neere unto Coleman Street, and +there builded a posterne now called <em>Moorgate</em>, upon the +Mooreside, where was never gate before. This gate he +made for ease of the citizens, that way to passe upon +cawseys into the Field for their recreation.”<a id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">5</a> The fields +in question were at that time a marsh, and though some +fifty years later “dikes and bridges” were made, it was +many years before the whole moor was drained. The +task at one time seemed so difficult that the chronicler +Stowe, in 1598, feared that even if the earth was raised +until it was level with the city walls it would be “but +little dryer,” such was the “moorish” nature of the +ground. Moorfields was the scene of many curious +dramas during its history. It was the great place for +displays, sham fights, and sports of the citizens. Pepys +notes in his Diary, July 26, 1664, that there was much +discourse about “the fray yesterday in Moorfields, how +the butchers at first did beat the weavers (between whom +there hath been ever an old competition for mastery), +but at last the weavers rallied and beat them.” Such +scenes were very frequent, and Moorfields for generations<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">12</span> +was the theatre of such contests. During the time of +the Great Fire, numbers of homeless people camped out +there, passing days of discomfort and anxiety about their +few remaining household goods. Pepys in his casual +way alludes to them: “5th September, ... Into Moorefields +(our feet ready to burn, walking through the town +among hot coles), and find that full of people, and poor +wretches carrying their goods there, and everybody +keeping his goods together by themselves (and a great +blessing it is to them that it is fair weather for them to +keep abroad night and day); drunk there and paid +twopence for a plain penny loaf.” The “trained bands” +used Moorfields as their exercise ground, and no doubt +the prototype of John Gilpin disported himself there. +As the fields were drained after 1527 they became more +and more the favourite resort of citizens of all ranks. +Laid out more as a public garden in 1606, they continued +the chief open space of the city until a few +generations ago.</p> + +<p>The garden of the Drapers’ Company was another +of the lungs of the City, and the disappearance of the +great part of it, also within recent years, is much to be +regretted. This land was purchased by the Company +from Henry VIII. after the garden had been made by +Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, and forfeited on his +attainder. His method of increasing his garden was +simple enough. He appears to have taken what he +wanted from the citizens adjoining, and his all-powerful +position at the time left them without redress. Stowe +describes the way this land was filched away. “This +house being finished, and having some reasonable plot +of ground left for a garden, hee caused the pales of the +gardens adjoining to the north part thereof, on a sudden<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">13</span> +to be taken doune, 22 foot to be measured forth right +into the north of every man’s ground, a line then to +be drawn, a trench to be cast, a foundation laid, and an +high bricke wall to be builded. My Father had a garden +there, and there was a house standing close to his south +pale; this house they loosed from the ground, and bare +upon Rowlers into my Father’s garden 22 foot ere my +Father heard thereof.... No man durst goe to argue +the matter, but each man lost his Land.”</p> + +<p>It is difficult to estimate whether the charitable munificence +of the Company is altogether as great a public +benefit, from a health point of view, as retaining some +of the garden for public use would have been. Men are +naturally so conservative, that, because they have been +content to talk and do business, and even search for a +breath of air, in the crowded streets on the hottest +summer days, it has probably never occurred to them +that a few minutes on a seat under shady trees would +have “refreshed their spirits,” and the addition of +better air improved their brain powers more effectually. +The idea of a garden city is such a new one that it +is not fair to judge by such standards. Distances are +now much reduced by electricity above and below +ground, so that the necessity of crowding business +houses together to save time is not so all-important. +When the City gardens became built over, no doubt the +newer and more sanitary conditions were felt amply to +compensate for the loss of oxygen given off by the +growing plants, and the preservation of air spaces in the +midst of crowded centres had not occurred to men’s +minds.</p> + +<p>London four or five hundred years ago must indeed +have needed its gardens. The squalor and dirt of its<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">14</span> +cramped streets, the noisy clamour, the rough and uncouth +manners, are unpleasing to realise. The contrast +of the little walled gardens, where the women could sit, +and the busy men find a little quiet from the noise +outside, must indeed have been precious. The profession +of a gardener, however, did not seem to soften +their behaviour, for some of the worst offenders were +gardeners. So serious did the “scurrility, clamour, and +nuisance of the gardeners and their servants,” who sold +their fruit and vegetables in the market, become, that +they disturbed the Austin Friars at their prayers in the +church hard by, and caused so much annoyance to the +people living near, that in 1345 a petition, to have these +“gardeners of the earls, barons, bishops, and citizens” +removed to another part of the town, was presented to +the Lord Mayor. Later on, gardening operations in the +City and for six miles round were restricted to freemen +and apprentices of the Gardeners’ Company, and the sale +of vegetables was almost exclusively in their hands. Their +guild had power to seize and destroy all bad plants, or +those exposed for sale by unlicensed persons. The +Gardeners’ Company, incorporated in 1605, had a second +charter in 1616, and a confirmation of their rights in +1635, and it still remains one of the City companies.</p> + +<p>All the smaller householders, even in the crowded +parts, continued to enjoy their little gardens for many +centuries. Even after the spoliation of the monasteries, +the houses rebuilt on their sites had their little enclosures; +and large houses such as Sir William Pawlet’s, +on the ground of the Augustine monastery, or later on +Sir Christopher Hatton’s on Ely Place, had their gardens +around them. Even now, in the heart of London, a small +row of shabby old houses survives, each with a small garden<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">15</span> +attached to it. These are called Nevill Court, from the +site having been within the precincts owned by Ralph +Nevill, Bishop of Chichester, Chancellor in the time of +Henry III., who built a great palace near here. One of +the row belongs to the Moravian Mission, or United +Brothers, a sect who trace their origin to John Huss. +They settled in this house in 1737. This old-world +corner opens out of Fetter Lane. A small wooden +paling separates the minute strips of blackened garden +from a narrow paved pathway. There were many such +gardens in this locality less than a century ago. Charles +Lamb, when aged six, went to school to a Mr. Bird in +Bond Stables, off Fetter Lane, now vanished; and, returning +to the spot in 1825, he recalled the early associations: +“The school-room stands where it did, looking +into a discoloured, dingy garden.... Oh, how I remember +... the truant looks side-long to the garden, +which seemed a mockery of our imprisonment.” Would +that some antiquarian millionaire—if such a combination +exists!—might take into his head to preserve Nevill +Court, to restore the houses and renovate the gardens, +and preserve this relic of Old London, to give future +generations some idea of what the smaller dwelling-houses +in the old city were like. In most districts these +little gardens were the usual appendage to dwelling-houses. +Pepys, living in Seething Lane, often mentions +his garden. It was there he sat with his wife and taught +her maid to sing; it was there he watched the flames +spreading over the town at the time of the Great Fire; +and in it his money was buried during the scare of the +Dutch invasion. So carelessly, indeed, was the money +hidden that 100 gold pieces were lost, but eventually +most of them recovered by sweeping the grass and sifting<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">16</span> +the soil. The natural way in which Pepys mentions how +other people—Sir W. Batten and Mrs. Turner—during +the Fire buried in their city gardens their wine and +other goods they could not send to the country, that +is, Bethnal Green, only shows how general these little +plots were.</p> + +<p>Gerard, that delightful old herbalist and gardener to +Lord Burghley, in Elizabeth’s reign, had his own garden in +Holborn. In it flourished no less than some 972 varieties +of plants, of which he published a catalogue in 1596. +His friend and fellow-botanist, L’Obel, whose name is +best remembered by the familiar genus Lobelia, testified +that he had seen all the plants on the list actually growing +there. The great faith and skill with which these old +gardeners attempted to grow in London all the newly-acquired +floral treasures, from all parts of the world, is +truly touching. To make them “denizons of our +London gardens” was Gerard’s delight. And this +worthy ambition was shared by L’Obel, who looked after +Lord Zouche’s garden in Hackney; by John Parkinson, +author of the delightful work on gardening; and later +on, the mantle descended to the Tradescants, who had +their museum (the nucleus of the Ashmolean) or “Ark” +and garden in Lambeth; by Sir Hans Sloane, who +established the Physic Garden in Chelsea, and numerous +others. It is curious to think how many of the plants +now familiar everywhere made their first appearance in +London. They were not reared elsewhere and brought to +the large shows which are arranged in the metropolis to +exhibit novelties to the public, but really London-grown. +They were foreign importations, little seeds or bulbs, +sent home to the merchants trading with the Levant, +or brought back by enterprising explorers from the New<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">17</span> +World and carefully nurtured in the London gardens, +that the citizens “set such store by.” There were +several of these “worshipful gentlemen” to whom the +introduction of flowers is due, and of many a plant +Gerard could say with pride, they “are strangers to +England, notwithstanding I have them in my garden.” +Most plants were grown for use, but others “we have +them,” says Gerard, “in our London gardens rather +more for toyes of pleasure than any vertues they are +possessed with.” Some of the first potatoes introduced +were grown in London. Gerard had those in his garden +direct from Virginia, and prized them as “a meat for +pleasure.” Jerusalem artichokes were brought to London +by him, and grown there in early days (1617). Parkinson +also had them, calling them “Potatos of Canada.” +Bananas were first seen in England in Johnson’s the +herbalist’s shop in Snow Hill. At a much later date—early +in last century—the fuchsia was made known for +the first time to Lee, a celebrated gardener, who saw a +pot of this attractive plant in the window of a house in +Wapping, where a sailor had brought it as a present to +his wife. So attached to it was she, that she only parted +with it when a sum of eight guineas was offered, besides +two of the young rooted cuttings. London can claim +so many flowers, it would be tedious to enumerate +them all. The first cedars in this country grew in the +Chelsea Physic Garden, some of the first orchids at +Loddige’s Garden in Hackney, and many things have +emanated from Veitch’s Nursery, or the Botanical +Gardens in Regent’s Park, or the gardens which used +to belong to the Royal Horticultural Society in South +Kensington. The chrysanthemum in early days flourished +in Stoke Newington, and one of the very first results of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">18</span> +cross-fertilisation, which now forms the chief part of +scientific garden work, was accomplished by Fairchild, a +famous nurseryman at Hoxton, who died in 1730.</p> + +<p>This same Thomas Fairchild left a bequest for a +sermon, to be preached annually on Whit Tuesday, at St. +Leonard’s, Shoreditch, on “the Wonderful Works of God +in the Creation,” which is still delivered, often by most +excellent preachers, but to a sadly small and unappreciative +congregation. Every opportunity ought to be taken +to awaken the interest in these wonders of creation in +the vegetable kingdom, and so much might be done in +London Parks. They are too frequently merely places +of recreation, and until recently but little has been +attempted to arouse enthusiasm for the beauties of +nature, and to make them instructive as well as attractive. +Even in the crowded heart of London a great deal could +be effected, and it is a satisfaction to feel that attention +is being drawn to the subject and an effort being made in +the right direction. In the summer of 1906 a “Country +in Town Exhibition” was held in Whitechapel. This +novel idea was so successful, and met with such appreciation, +that 33,250 people visited the exhibition during +the fortnight it was open, besides the hundreds that +collected to see H.R.H. Princess Christian perform the +opening ceremony. The available space of the Whitechapel +Art Gallery was filled with plants that would +thrive in London; the Office of Works arranged a +demonstration of potting; bees at work, aquaria, specimens +dried by children or drawn in the schools, growing +specimens of British plants, such as the dainty bee-orchis, +plants and window boxes grown in the district, and such-like, +made up the exhibits. Lectures were organised on +plant life and nature in London which were largely<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">19</span> +attended. A series of drawings and plans of the Mile +End Road and Shadwell, as they are, and as they might +be, were prepared, and the cost of such transformations +was worked out. These were exhibited in the hopes of +awakening the interest of the Corporation who owns the +site of the disused market in Shadwell, and of causing +more to be done in the Mile End Road. It appears that +with a comparatively small expenditure and ultimate loss, +these plans could be realised, and the physical and moral +conditions of the whole neighbourhood improved.</p> + +<p>Every year it is further to get into the country +from the centres of population, and the necessity of +improving existing open spaces becomes all the greater. +By improving it is not meant to suggest that what are +sometimes called improvements should be carried out; +grander band-stands, handsome railings, more asphalt +paths or stiff concrete ponds. No, it is only more +intelligent planting, grouping for artistic effect, and +arranging to demonstrate the wonders of nature in +spaces already in existence, and to suggest what could +be done to cheer and brighten the dark spots of the +city.</p> + +<p>The country round London has always been a good +district for wild flowers; the varied soils, aspects, and +levels all go to make it a propitious spot for botanising. +Many places now covered with streets were a few generations +ago a mass of wild flowers. The older herbalists—Gerard, +Johnson, and their friends—used to search the +neighbourhood of London for floral treasures, and incidentally +in their works the names of these friends, such +as Mr. James Clarke and Mr. Thomas Smith, “Apothecaries +of London,” and their “search for rare plants” +are mentioned. Gerard was constantly on the watch,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">20</span> +and records plants seen in the quaintest places, such as +the water-radish, which he says grew “in the joints or +chincks amongst mortar of a stone wall that bordereth +upon the river Thames by the Savoy in London, which +yee cannot finde but when the tide is much spent.” +Pennyroyal “was found on the common near London +called Miles ende,” “from whence poore women bring +plentie to sell in London markets.” The rare adders-tongue +and great wild valerian grew in damp meadows, +the fields abounded with all the more common wild +flowers, and such choice things as the pretty little +“ladies’ tresses,” grew on the common near Stepney, +while butcher’s broom, cow wheat, golden rod, butterfly +orchis, lilies of the valley and royal fern, wortleberries and +bilberries covered the heaths and woods of Hampstead and +Highgate. Many another flower is recorded by Gerard, +who must have had a keen and observant eye which +could spot a rare water-plant in a ditch while attending +an execution at Tyburn! yet he meekly excuses his want +of knowledge of where a particular hawkweed grew, +saying, “I meane, God willing, better to observe heerafter, +as oportunitie shall serve me.” That power of observation +is a gift to be fostered and encouraged, and were +that achieved by education in Council Schools, a great +success would have been scored, and probably it would +be more fruitful in the child’s after life than the scattered +crumbs from countless subjects with which the brain is +bewildered. The wild flowers could still be enticed +within the County of London, and species, which used +to make their homes within its area, might be induced +at least to visit some corners of its parks. The more +dingy the homes of children are, the more necessary it +must be to bring what is simple, pure, and elevating to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">21</span> +their minds, and modern systems of teaching are realising +this. If public gardens can be brought to lend their aid +in the actual training, as well as being a playground, +they will serve a twofold purpose. An old writer +quaintly puts this influence of plant life. “Flowers +through their beautie, varietie of colour and exquisite +forme, do bring to a liberall and gentle manly mind, +the remembrance of honestie, comelinesse, and all kindes +of vertues. For it would be an unseemly and filthie +thing, as a certain wise man saith, for him that doth looke +upon and handle faire and beautifull things, and who frequenteth +and is conversant in faire and beautifull places, +to have his mind not faire but filthie and deformed.”</p> + +<p>It is not possible for all London children to get into +the country now that it is further away, so the more +of nature, as well as true artistic gardening, they can be +shown in the parks the better. It used in olden days to +be the custom, among other May Day revels, to go out +to the country round London and enjoy the early spring +as the Arabs do at the present time, when they have the +fête of “Shem-en-Nazim,” or “Smelling the Spring.” +“On May day in the morning, every man, except impediment, +would walk into the Sweet Meddowes and +green woods, there to rejoyce their spirits with the +beauty and Savour of sweet Flowers, and with the harmonie +of Birdes, praising God in their kinde.”<a id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">6</a> It +would surprise many people to learn how many birds +still sing their praises within the parks of London, +although the meadows and other delights have vanished. +This serves to encourage the optimist in believing in +the future possibilities of London Parks.</p> + +<p>There is no “park system” in England as in the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">22</span> +United States of America, where each town provides, in +addition to its regular lines of streets, and its main +thoroughfares leading straight from the centre to the +more suburban parts, a complete system of parks. The +more old-fashioned town of Boston was behind the rest, +although it contained a few charming public gardens in +the heart of the town. Of late years large tracts of +low-lying waste grounds have been filled up, and one +piece connected with another, until it, too, rejoices in +a complete “park system.” Chicago, Pittsburgh, and all +these modern towns of rapid growth possess a well-ordered +“park system.” The conditions, the natural +aspect of the country, and the climate are so unlike our +own that no comparison is fair. Like everything else in +the United States, they are on a large scale, and while there +is much to admire, and something to learn, there is very +little in the points in which they differ from us that +could be imitated. London parks and open spaces, taken +as a whole, are unrivalled. The history and associations +which cluster round each and all of them, would fill +volumes if recorded facts were adhered to; and if the +imagination were allowed to run riot within the range of +possibility, there would be no limit. Things which have +grown gradually as circumstances changed can have no +system. Their variety and irregularity is their charm, +and no description of either the parks, gardens, or open +spaces of London can be given as a whole. Each has +its own associations, its own history, and to glance at +some of London’s bright spots and tell their stories will +be the endeavour of these pages.</p> +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">23</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_II"><span id="toclink_23"></span><span class="gesperrt">CHAPTER II</span><br> + +<span class="subhead">HYDE PARK</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>The Park shone brighter than the skyes,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Sing tan-tara-rara-tantivee,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>With jewels and gold, and Ladies’ eyes,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>That sparkled and cry’d come see me:</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Of all parts of England, Hide Park hath the name,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>For coaches and Horses and Persons of fame,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>It looked at first sight, like a field full of flame,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Which made me ride up tan-tivee.</i></div> + </div> + <div class="attrib">—<span class="smcap">News from Hide Park</span>, an old ballad, <i>c.</i> 1670.</div> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="idc idcI"><img src="images/i_idc_i.png" width="178" height="182" alt="I"> +<span class="firstword">In</span> writing about London Parks the +obvious starting-point seems to be +the group comprising Hyde, Green, +and St. James’s Parks, which are so +intimately connected with London +life to-day, and have a past teeming +with interest. What changes +some of those elms have witnessed! +Generation after generation of the world of fashion have +passed beneath their shades. Dainty ladies with powder +and patches have smiled at their beaux, perhaps concealing +aching hearts by a light and careless gaiety. +Stately coaches and prancing horsemen have passed +along. Crowds of enthusiasts for various causes have +aired their grievances on the green turf. Brilliant reviews +and endless parades have taken place on the wide +open spaces; games and races have amused thousands<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">24</span> +of spectators. In still earlier times there was many a +day’s good sport after the deer, or many a busy hour’s +ploughing the abbey lands of the then Manor of Hyde. +Scene after scene can be pictured down to the present +time, when, after centuries of change, the enjoyment of +these Parks remains perhaps one of the most treasured +privileges of the Londoner.</p> + +<p>In tracing the history of their various phases, the +survival of many features is as remarkable as the disappearance +of others. The present limits on the north +and east, Bayswater Road and Park Lane, have suffered +no substantial alteration since the roads were known as +the Via Trimobantina and the Watling Street in Roman +times. The Watling Street divided, and one section +followed the course of the present Oxford Street to the +City; the other, passing down the line of Park Lane, +crossed St. James’s Park, and so to the ford over the +Thames at Westminster. The Park was never common +or waste land, but must have been cleared and cultivated +in very early times. In Domesday Survey the Manor +was in plough and pasture land, with various “villains” +and peasants living on it. The Thames was the southern +boundary of the Manor of “Eia,” which was divided +into three parts, one being Hyde, the site of the existing +Hyde Park, the other two Ebury and Neate. Although +now forgotten, the latter name was familiar for +many centuries. When owned by the Abbots of Westminster, +the Manor House by the riverside was of some +importance, and John of Gaunt stayed there. Famous +nurseries and a tea garden, “the Neate houses,” marked +the spot in the eighteenth century.</p> + +<p>Until the stormy days of the Reformation these lands +remained much the same. Owned by the Abbey of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">25</span> +Westminster, they were probably well cultivated by +their tenants, and doubtless the game with which they +abounded from early times afforded the Abbot some +pleasant days’ sport and tasty meals. The first time +any of the Manor became part of the royal demesne, +was when the Abbot Islip exchanged 100 acres of what +is now St. James’s Park, adjoining the royal lands, for +Poughley in Berkshire, with Henry VIII. in 1531–2. +This Abbot, who had an ingenious device to represent +his name—a human eye and a cutting or “slip” of a tree—died +in the Manor House of Neate or Neyte the +same year. He gave up the lands from Charing Cross +“unto the Hospital of St. James in the fields” (now +St. James’s Palace), and the meadows between the +Hospital and Westminster. Five years later, when the +upheaval of the dissolution of the monasteries was +taking place, the monks of Westminster were forced to +take the lands of the Priory of Hurley—one of their own +cells just dissolved—in exchange for the rest of the manor. +Henry VIII., who loved sport, found these lands first-rate +hunting-ground. From his palace at Westminster, +through Hyde Park, right away to Hampstead, he had +an almost uninterrupted stretch of country, where hares +and herons, pheasants and partridges, could be pursued +and preserved “for his own disport and pastime.” +Hyde Park was enclosed, or “substancially empayled,” +as an old writer states, and a large herd of deer kept +there, and various proclamations show that the right +of sport had to be jealously guarded.</p> + +<p>What a gay scene must Hyde Park have often witnessed +in Elizabeth’s reign. The Queen, when not +actually joining in the chase, watched the proceedings +from the hunting pavilion, or “princelye standes therein,”<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">26</span> +and feasted the guests in the banqueting-house. There +were brilliantly caparisoned horses, men and women in +costly velvets and brocades, stiff frills, plumed hats and +embroidered gloves. Picture the <i lang="fr">cortège</i> entering by the +old lodge, where now is Hyde Park Corner, the honoured +guest, for whom the day’s sport was inaugurated—such +as John Casimir, son of the Elector Palatine, who showed +his skill by killing a particular deer out of a herd of 300—surrounded +by some of his foreign attendants, and +escorted by all the court gallants of the day.</p> + +<p>The Park must then have been as wild as the New +or Sherwood Forests of to-day. The tall trees, with +their sturdy stems, were then untouched by smoky +air, the sylvan glades and pasture lands had no distant +vistas of houses and chimneys to spoil their rural aspect, +while far off the pile of the buildings of Westminster +Abbey—without the conspicuous towers, which were +not finished till 1714—might be seen rising beyond the +swamps and fens of St. James’s Park. Hyde Park on +a May evening even now is still beautiful, if looked at +from the eastern side across a golden mist, against +which the dark trees stand up mysteriously, when a +glow of sunset light seems to transform even ragged +little Cockney children into fairies. It wants but little +imagination to see that same golden haze peopled with +huntsmen, and to hear the sound of the horn instead +of the roar of carriages.</p> + +<p>The next scene which can be brought vividly before +the mind’s eye is very different from the last pageant. +These are troublous times. The monarch and his +courtiers are occupied in far other pursuits than hunting +deer. Charles I. was fighting in the vain endeavour +to keep his throne, and Londoners were preparing to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">27</span> +defend the city. Hyde Park and Green Park became +the theatre of warlike operations. Forts were raised +and trenches were dug. Two small forts, one on Constitution +Hill and one near the present Mount Street +in Hyde Park, were made, but the more important were +those on the present sites of the Marble Arch and of +Hamilton Place. The energy displayed on the occasion +is described by Butler in “Hudibras,” and the part taken +by women in the work. Like the “sans culottes” of +the French Revolution, they helped with their own +hands.</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“Women, who were our first apostles,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Without whose aid w’ had all been lost else;</div> + </div> + <div class="tb">* * * * *</div> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0">March’d rank and file, with drum and ensign,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">T’ entrench the city for defence in;</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Rais’d rampires with their own soft hands,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">To put the enemy to stands;</div> + <div class="verse indent0">From ladies down to oyster-wenches</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Labour’d like pioneers in trenches,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Fell to their pickaxes and tools,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">And helped the men to dig like moles.”</div> + </div> + <div class="attrib">—<span class="smcap">Butler’s</span> “<i>Hudibras</i>.”</div> +</div> +</div> + +<p>The picture of their sombre garments, neat-fitting +caps, and severe faces, the close-cropped hair and stern +looks of the men, working with business-like determination, +stands out a striking contrast to the gay colours +and cheerful looks of the company engaged in the chase.</p> + +<p>The darker trees and sheltered corners of Hyde Park +afforded covert for the wary “Roundhead” to lie in +ambush for the imprudent Loyalist carrying letters to the +King. On more than one occasion the success was on his +side, and the bearer of news to his royal master was waylaid, +and the papers secured. The culminating scene of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">28</span> +this period must have been when Fairfax and the Parliamentary +army marched through Hyde Park in 1647, and +were met by the solemn procession of the Mayor and +Sheriffs of the City of London.</p> + +<p>Dismal days for the Parks followed. Although the +Parks had been declared the property of the Commonwealth, +it was from no wish to use them for sport or +recreation. During the latter years of Charles the First’s +reign Hyde Park had become somewhat of a fashionable +resort. People came to enjoy the air and meet their +friends, and it was less exclusively reserved for hunting. +Races took place, both foot and horse; crowds collected +to witness them, and ladies, with their attendant cavaliers, +drove there in coaches, and refreshed themselves at +the “Cake House” with syllabubs. This latter was +the favourite drink, made of milk or cream whipped up +with sugar and wine or cider. But the Puritan spirit, +which was rapidly asserting itself, soon interfered with +such harmless amusements. In 1645 the Parks were +ordered to be shut on the Lord’s Day, also on fast and +thanksgiving days. In 1649 the Parks, together with +Windsor, Hampton Court, Greenwich, and Richmond, +were declared to be the property of the Commonwealth, +and thrown open to the public. But this did not lead to +greater public enjoyment of Hyde Park. Far from it, +for only three years later it was put up to auction in +three lots. The first lot was the part bounded on one +side by the present Bayswater Road, and is described +as well wooded; the second, the Kensington side, was +chiefly pasture; the third, another well-wooded division, +included the lodge and banqueting-house and the Ring +where the races took place. This part was valued at +more than double the two others, and was purchased by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">29</span> +Anthony Dean, a ship-builder, for £9020, 8s. 2d. This +business-like gentleman presumably reserved the use of +the timber for his ships, and let out the pasture. His +tenant proceeded to make as much as he could, and +levied a toll on all carriages coming into the Park. On +some occasions he extorted 2s. 6d. from each coach. In +1653 John Evelyn in his diary complains on April 11 +that he “went to take the aire in Hide Park, when every +coach was made to pay a shilling, and every horse sixpence, +by the sordid fellow who had purchas’d it of the +State, as they were call’d.” Cromwell himself was fond +of riding in the Park, and crowds thronged him as he +galloped round the Ring. More than one plot was made +against the life of Cromwell, and the Park was considered +a likely place in which to succeed. On one occasion the +would-be assassin joined the crowd, which pursued the +Protector during his ride, ready, if at any moment he +galloped beyond the people, to dash at him with a fatal +blow. The plotter had carefully filed the Park gate off +its hinges so as to make good his own escape. It is a +curious fact that Cromwell more nearly met his death in +Hyde Park by accident than by design. He was presented +with some fine grey Friesland horses, by the Duke +of Holstein, and insisted on driving the spirited animals +himself. They bolted, he was thrown from the box, and +his pistol went off in his pocket, “though without any +hurt to himself”!</p> + +<p>The Ring, where all these performances took place, was +situated to the north-east of where the Humane Society’s +house, built in 1834, now stands, near the Serpentine. +There are a few remains of very large elm trees still to +be seen, which probably shaded some of the company +assembled to watch the coaches driving round and round<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">30</span> +the Ring, or cheer the winner of a hotly-contested race. +Even during the sombre days of the Commonwealth sports +took place in the Park, but with the Restoration it became +much more the resort of all the fashionable world and the +scene of many more amusements. The parks were still +in those days for the Court and the wealthy or well-to-do +citizens only. Probably to many of the rabble and poorer +Londoners the nearest view obtained of Hyde Park would +be the tall trees within its fence or wall, which formed a +background to the revolting but most engrossing of +popular sights, the horrors of the gallows at Tyburn. +The idea of giving parks as recreation grounds for the +poor is such a novel one that no old writer would think +of noticing their absence in an age when bull-baiting and +cock fights were their highest form of amusement.</p> + +<p>The Ring was an enclosure with a railing round it +and a wide road. It is described as “a ring railed in, +round w<sup>ch</sup> a gravel way, yt would admitt of twelve if +not more rowes of Coaches, w<sup>ch</sup> the Gentry to take the +aire and see each other Comes and drives round and +round; one row going Contrary to each other affords a +pleaseing diversion.”</p> + +<p>The gay companies who assembled to drive round +and round the Ring, or watch races, sometimes met with +unusual excitement. On one occasion Hind, a famous +highwayman, for a wager rode into the Ring and robbed +a coach of a bag of money. He was hotly pursued across +the Park, but made his escape, “riding by St. James’s,” +which then, and until a much later date, was a sanctuary, +and no one except a traitor could be arrested within it. +So narrow an escape from justice did he have that he is +said to have exclaimed, “I never earned £100 so dear in +all my life!”</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">31</span></p> + +<p>Numberless entries in Pepys’ Diary describe visits to +Hyde Park. His drives there in fine and wet weather, +the company he met, whether his wife looked well or was +in a good or ill temper, and the latest gossip the outing +afforded, are all noted. Many times he regrets not having +a coach of his own, and does not conceal the feelings of +wounded pride it occasioned. Once he naïvely explains +that having taken his wife and a friend to the Park +“in a hackney,” and they not in smart clothes, he “was +ashamed to go into the tour [Ring], but went round the +Park, and so, with pleasure, home.” His delight when +he possessed a coach is unbounded. He made frequent +visits to the coach-builder, and watched the final coat of +varnish to “make it more and more yellow,” and at last +on May Day, 1669, he describes his first appearance in +his own carriage: “At noon home to dinner, and there +find my wife extraordinary fine with her flowered tabby +gown that she made two years ago, now laced exceeding +pretty, and indeed was fine all over, and mighty earnest +to go; though the day was very lowering; and she would +have me put on my fine suit, which I did. And so anon, +we went alone through the town with our new liveries +of serge and the horses’ manes and tails tied with red +ribbons, and the standards gilt with varnish, and all +clean, and green reines, that people did mightily look +upon us; and the truth is I did not see any coach more +pretty, though more gay than ours, all that day ... the +day being unpleasing though the Park full of Coaches, +but dusty, and windy, and cold, and now and then a +little dribbling of rain; and what made it worse, there +were so many hackney coaches as spoiled the sight of the +gentlemen’s, and so we had little pleasure. But here +was Mr. Batelier and his sister in a borrowed coach by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">32</span> +themselves, and I took them and we to the lodge: and at +the door did give them a syllabub and other things, cost +me 12s. and pretty merry.”</p> + +<p>What an amusing picture, not only of Hyde Park in +1669 but of human nature of all time!—the start, the +pride and delight with their new acquisition, the little +annoyances, the marred pleasures, the ungenerous dislike +of the less fortunate who could not afford coaches of +their own, whose ranks he had swelled the very last drive +he had taken. Then the little kindness and the refreshment, +so that the story ends merrily.</p> + +<p>The “Lodge” is but another name for the “Cheese-cake +House” or “Cake House,” or as it was sometimes +called from the proprietor, the Gunter of those days, +“Price’s Lodge.” This house, which was a picturesque +feature, stood near the Ring, on the site of the present +building of the Humane Society, and must have been +the scene of many amusing incidents in the lives of +those who graced the Ring, in the seventeenth and +eighteenth centuries. A little stream ran in front of +it, and the door was approached over planks. White +with beams of timber, latticed windows, and gabled roof, +a few flowers clustering near, with the water flowing by +its walls, the old house gave a special charm and rural +flavour to the tarts and cheesecakes and syllabub with +which the company regaled themselves.</p> + +<p>The gay sights and sounds in Hyde Park were +silenced during those terrible weeks, when the Great +Plague spread death and destruction through London. +As the summer advanced, and the havoc became more +and more appalling, many of the soldiers quartered in the +city, were marched out to encamp in Hyde Park. At +first it seemed as if they would escape the deadly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">33</span> +scourge, but the men were not accustomed to the +rough quarters, and soon succumbed.</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“Our men (ere long) began to droop and quail,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Our lodgings cold, and some not us’d thereto,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Fell sick, and dy’d, and made us more adoe.</div> + <div class="verse indent0">At length the Plague amongst us ’gan to spread,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">When ev’ry morning some were found stark dead;</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Down to another field the sick we t’ane,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">But few went down that e’er came up again.”</div> + </div> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Thus all through the autumn of that terrible year +the Park was one of the fields of battle against the +relentless foe. The contemporary poet, whose lines +have been quoted, describes the return of the few +saddened survivors to the “doleful” city. They had +lingered through the cold and wet until December, and +surely the Park has no passage in its history more +piteous and depressing than the advent of those +frightened men who came with “heavy hearts,” “fearing +the Almighty’s arrows,” only to be overtaken by the +terror in their plague-stricken camp.</p> + +<p>Hyde Park has witnessed other gloomy pictures from +time to time. Although the colouring of fashion and +romance has endeavoured to make these incidents less +repulsive, duels cannot be otherwise than distressing to +the modern sense. For generations Hyde Park was a +favourite place in which to settle affairs of honour. +The usual spot is described by Fielding in “Amelia.” +The combatants walked up Constitution Hill and into +Hyde Park “to that place which may properly be called +the Field of Blood, being that part a little to the left of +the Ring, which Heroes have chosen for the scene of their +exit out of this World.” One of the most famous duels +was that fought between Lord Mohun and the Duke of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">34</span> +Hamilton on November 15, 1712, which resulted in the +death of both the combatants—the Duke, whose loss was +a great blow to the Jacobite cause in Scotland, and the +Whig opponent. All through the eighteenth century +Hyde Park was frequently the place in which disputes +were settled, and one of the last duels recorded, which +resulted in the death of Captain Macnamara (his +antagonist, Colonel Montgomery, being tried for manslaughter, +but acquitted), although fought on Primrose +Hill, originated in Hyde Park. The cause of quarrel +was that the dogs of these two gentlemen fought while +out with them in the Park, whereupon the respective +masters used such abusive language to each other that +the affair had to be settled by a duel.</p> + +<p>Military displays, for which Hyde Park is still +famous, have taken place there from early times. The +works of defence were thrown up, and Fairfax and the +Parliamentary army arrived there in the times of civil strife, +but soon after the Restoration Charles II. had a peaceful +demonstration, and there reviewed his Life Guards. +Again, in September 1668, there was a more brilliant +review, when the Duke of Monmouth took command +of the Life Guards, and the King and Duke of York +were both present. Pepys was there, and wrote, “It was +mighty noble, and their firing mighty fine, and the Duke +of Monmouth in mighty rich clothes; but the well +ordering of the men I understand not.”</p> + +<p>When, in 1715, the fear of a general Jacobite rising +induced the Whigs to take serious precautions, Hyde +Park became a camp from July till November. During +a similar scare in 1722 troops were again quartered there, +and the camp became the centre of popular attraction; +gaiety and frivolity were the order of the day, rather<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">35</span> +than business or watchfulness. The Park was also used +as a camp for six regiments of militia at the time of the +Gordon Riots in 1780. All through George III.’s long +reign reviews were frequent, and one of the most popular +was that held by the Prince Regent before the allied +sovereigns, the Emperor of Russia and King of Prussia, +in June 1814. Blücher was the popular hero on the +occasion, and when he afterwards appeared in the Park +he was so mobbed by the crowd, enthusiastic to see +something of “Forwärts,” as he was familiarly named, +that he had to defend himself against their rough +treatment.</p> + +<p>When the Park was again in the King’s hands after +the Restoration, a Keeper was once more appointed, who +was responsible for its maintenance. From the time of +Henry VIII. various well-known people had filled the +office of Keeper. The first in Henry VIII.’s time was +George Roper, succeeded in 1553 by Francis Nevill, and +in 1574 by Henry Carey, first Lord Hunsdon, while in +1607 Robert Cecil, Earl of Salisbury, was appointed, and +Sir Walter Cope held the office conjointly with him from +1610. The name of the first Keeper after the Restoration, +James Hamilton, is well remembered by the site of +his house and ground, which are still known as Hamilton +Place and Gardens. He was allowed to enclose 55 acres +of park, and to use it as an orchard on the condition that +he sent a certain quantity of the cider produced from it +to the King. In his time a brick wall was built round +the Park, and it was re-stocked with deer. The wall was +rebuilt in 1726, and not replaced by railings until a +hundred years later. These iron railings were pulled +down by the mob in 1866, after which the present ones +were set up. The deer, which formerly ranged all over<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">36</span> +the Park, were in course of time confined to a small +area on the north-west side, called Buckdean Hill. +They were kept for sport during the first half of the +eighteenth century, and the last time royalty took part +in killing deer in the Park was probably in 1768. The +exact date of the disappearance of all the deer is difficult +to ascertain. They are remembered by some who saw +them towards the end of the thirties, but by 1840 or +soon after they were done away with.</p> + +<p>The roads in Hyde Park must have been rather like +South African tracks at the present day, and driving at +night was not free from danger even at a comparatively +late date. Attacks from highwaymen were to be feared. +Horace Walpole was robbed in November 1749, and the +pistol shot was near enough to stun though not otherwise +to injure him. The Duke of Grafton had his collar bone +broken, and his coachman his leg, some ten years earlier, +when, on his way from Kensington to “the New Gate to +make some visits towards Grosvenor Square, the Chariot +through the darkness of the Night was overset in driving +along the Road and” fell “into a large deep pit.”</p> + +<p>Soon after William III. purchased Kensington Palace +from the Earl of Nottingham in 1691, he commenced +making a new road through the Park. This became +known as the King’s Road, or “Route du Roi”: a corruption +of the latter is Rotten Row, the name now given +to King William’s Drive. In the eighteenth century it +was called the King’s Old Road, and the one which +George II. made to the south of it was called the King’s +New Road. When this was finished in 1737, it was +intended to turf the older “Rotten Row,” but this +plan was never carried out. The old road was much +thought of at the time it was made, and the lighting<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">37</span> +of it up at night with 300 lamps caused wonder to all +beholders.</p> + +<p>A young lady, Celia Fiennes, describes the road in +her diary about 1695. “Y<sup>e</sup> whole length of this parke +there is a high Causey of a good breadth, 3 Coaches +may pass, and on each side are Rowes of posts on w<sup>ch</sup> +are glasses—Cases for Lamps w<sup>ch</sup> are Lighted in y<sup>e</sup> +Evening and appeares very fine as well as safe for y<sup>e</sup> +passenger. This is only a private roade y<sup>e</sup> King had +w<sup>ch</sup> reaches to Kensington, where for aire our Great +King W<sup>m.</sup> bought a house and filled it for a Retirement +w<sup>th</sup> pretty gardens.”</p> + +<p>The road was in bad repair before the new one was +in good order, and Lord Hervey, writing in 1736, says +it had grown “so infamously bad” as to form “a great +impassable gulf of mud” between London and Kensington +Palace. “There are two ways through the Park, +but the new one is so convex, and the old one is so +concave, that by this extreme of faults they agree in the +common of being, like the high road, impassable.”</p> + +<p>One of the most striking features of Hyde Park +to-day is the long sheet of water known as the “Serpentine,” +but this was a comparatively late addition to +the attractions of the Park. From earliest times there +was water. The deer came down to drink at pools supplied +by fresh springs. The stream of the West Bourne +flowed across the Park from north to south, leaving it +near the present Albert Gate. Near there it was spanned +by a bridge, from which the hamlet of Knightsbridge +derived its name. The water in the Park was used +to supply the West End of London as houses began to +be built further from the City, and Chelsea was also +supplied from it. The Dean and Chapter of Westminster<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">38</span> +had a right to the use of the water from the springs in +the Park, and the history of their privilege is recorded +on a stone which stands above “the Dell” on the north-east +of the bridge across the end of the Serpentine. The +inscription states that a supply of water by a conduit was +granted to the Abbey of Westminster by Edward the +Confessor, and the further history of the lands, which +passed into Henry VIII.’s hands at a time when all church +property was in peril of seizure, is neatly glossed over as +the “manor was resumed by the Crown in 1536.” The +use of the springs, however, was retained by the Abbey, +and confirmed to them by a charter of Elizabeth in 1560. +Later on the privilege was withdrawn, and in 1663 the +Chelsea Waterworks were granted the use of all the +streams and springs of Hyde Park. They made in +1725 a reservoir on the east side of the Park, opposite +Mount Street. The sunk garden, with the Dolphin +Fountain, the statue in Carrara marble, and the basin of +Sicilian marble, by A. Munro, was made in 1861 on the +site of this reservoir, which was abandoned two years +earlier. It has been stated that this sunk garden was +a remnant of the forts of Cromwell’s time, one small +one having been near here, but the history of the Chelsea +Waterworks reservoir must have been unknown to those +who believed the tradition. It contained a million and a +half gallons of water, and was protected by a wall and +railings, as suicides were once said to have been frequent. +When the Serpentine was made by Queen Caroline, considerable +compensation had to be paid to the Waterworks +Company.</p> + +<figure id="i_p38c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 29em;"> + <img src="images/i_p038c.jpg" width="522" height="813" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p038c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + DOLPHIN FOUNTAIN, HYDE PARK + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>In this age of experiments in plant growing, when +American writers glow with enthusiasm on the wonders +of the “New Earth,” and when science has transformed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">39</span> +the dullest operations of farming and gardening into +fields for enterprise and treasuries of possible discoveries, +it is humiliating to find the water in Hyde Park being +used for like experiments as long ago as 1691–92. +Stephen Switzer, a gardener, who would have been described +by his contemporaries as a “lover of ingenuities,” +was fond of indulging in speculations, and studied the +effect of water on plants. He quotes a series of experiments +made by Dr. Woodward on growing plants +entirely in water, or with certain mixtures. For fifty-two +days during the summer of 1692 he carefully watched +some plants of spearmint, which were all “the most +kindly, fresh, sprightly Shoots I could chuse,” and were +set in water previously weighed. For this trial he selected +“Hyde Park Conduit water”—one pure, another had an<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">40</span> +ounce and a half of common garden earth added to it, a +third was given an equal quantity of garden mould, and +a fourth was kept on “Hyde Park water distilled.” The +results in growth, and the quantity of water absorbed, +were carefully noted at the end of the time.</p> + +<figure id="i_p39" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 33em;"> + <img src="images/i_p039.jpg" width="525" height="382" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p039_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + <span class="smcap">Dolphin Fountain in Hyde Park</span> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>When Queen Caroline conceived the idea of throwing +the ponds in Hyde Park into one, and making a +sheet of water, the school of “natural” or “landscape” +gardening was becoming the rage. Bridgeman, a well-known +garden designer, who had charge of the royal +gardens, has the credit of having invented the “ha-ha” +or sunk fence, and thus led the way for merging gardens +into parks. Kent, who followed him, went still further. +He, Horace Walpole said, “leaped the fence, and saw +that all Nature was a garden.” The fashions in garden +design soon change, and the work of a former generation +is quickly obliterated. William III. brought with him +the fashion of Dutch gardening, and laid out Kensington +Gardens in that style. Switzer, writing twenty-five years +later, says the fault of the Dutch gardeners was “the +Pleasure Gardens being stuffed too thick with Box”; +they “used it to a fault, especially in England, where +we abound in so much good Grass and Gravel.” London +and Wise, very famous nursery gardeners, who made +considerable changes at Hampton Court, and laid out +the grounds of half the country seats in England, had +charge of Kensington Palace Gardens, and housed the +“tender greens” during the winter in their nurseries +hard by. These celebrated Brompton nurseries were so +vast that the Kensington plants took up “but little +room in comparison with” those belonging to the firm. +Queen Mary took great interest in the new gardens. +“This active Princess lost no time, but was either<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">41</span> +measuring, directing, or ordering her Buildings, but in +Gard’ning, especially Exoticks, she was particularly +skill’d, and allowed Dr. Pluknet £200 per ann. for his +Assistance therein.” After his queen’s death William III. +did no more to the gardens, but they were completed by +Queen Anne. She appointed Wise to the chief care of +the gardens, and when in 1712 rules for the “better +keeping Hyde Park in good Order” were drawn up, +and people were forbidden to leap the fences or ditches, +or to ride over the grass, a special exception was made +in favour of Henry Wise. Switzer, in tracing the history +of gardening to his day (1715), praises the “late pious +Queen, whose love to Gardening was not a little,” for +“Rooting up the <em>Box</em>, and giving an <em>English</em> Model +to the old-made Gardens at <em>Kensington</em>; and in 1704 +made that new garden behind the Green-House, that +is esteemed amongst the most valuable Pieces of Work +that has been done any where.... The place where +that beautiful Hollow now is, was a large irregular +Gravel-pit, which, according to several Designs given +in, was to have been filled, but that Mr. Wise prevailed, +and has given it that surprizing Model it now +appears in. As great a Piece of Work as that whole +Ground is, ’twas near all completed in one Season, (viz.) +between Michaelmas and Lady Day, which demonstrates +to what a pitch Gard’ning is arrived within these +twenty or thirty years.”</p> + +<p>When William III. purchased Kensington Palace, +the grounds covered less than thirty acres. Under +the management of Wise, in Queen Anne’s time, more +was added, and the Orangery was built in 1705. Few +people know the charms of this old building, which +stands to the north of the original garden, and which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">42</span> +future alterations may once more bring more into +sight. As the taste for gardening changed from the +shut-in gardens of the Dutch style to the more extended +plans of Wise, the garden grew in size. Again, +when Bridgeman was gardener, Queen Caroline, wife of +George II., wished to emulate the splendour of Versailles, +and 300 acres were taken from Hyde Park to +add to the Palace Garden. Bridgeman made the sunk +fence which is still the division between Kensington +Gardens and the Park; and with the earth which was +taken out a mount was made, on which a summer-house +was erected. This stood nearly opposite the present end +of Rotten Row, and though it has long since ceased to +exist, the gate into the Gardens is still known as the +Mount Gate. Kent, who succeeded Bridgeman, continued +the planting of the avenues and laying out of the +Gardens, and the greater part of his work still remains. +The Gardens were reduced in size when the road was +made from Kensington to Bayswater, and the houses +along it built about seventy years ago, and the exact +size is now 274 acres. Queen Caroline would have +liked to take still more of the Parks for her private use; +but when she hinted as much to Walpole, and asked the +cost, he voiced public opinion when he replied, “Three +crowns.”</p> + +<figure id="i_p43" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 49em;"> + <img src="images/i_p043.jpg" width="781" height="320" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p043_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + <span class="smcap">Fountains at the End of the Serpentine</span> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>The fashion of making sheets of artificial water +with curves and twists, instead of a straight, canal-like +shape, was just taking the public fancy, when Queen +Caroline began the work of converting the rather marshy +ponds in Hyde Park into a “Serpentine River.” The +ponds were of considerable size, and in James I.’s time +there were as many as eleven large and small. Celia +Fiennes, the young lady who kept a diary in the time of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">44</span> +William and Mary, which has been already quoted, after +describing the Ring, says, “The rest of the park is +green, and full of deer; there are large ponds with fish +and fowle.” The work of draining the ponds and +forming a river was begun in October 1730, under the +direction of Charles Withers, Surveyor-General of the +Woods and Forests. The cost of the large undertaking +was supposed to come out of the Queen’s privy purse, +and it was not until after her death that it was found +that Walpole had supplemented it out of the public +funds. The West Bourne supplied the new river with +sufficient water for some hundred years, after which new +arrangements had to be made, as the stream had become +too foul. The water supply now comes from two +sources—one a well 400 feet deep at the west end of +the Serpentine, where the formal fountains and basins +were made, about 1861, in front of the building of Italian +design covering the well. The sculptured vases and +balustrade with sea-horses are by John Thomas. The +water in the well stands 172 feet below the ground level, +and the depth is continually increasing. It is pumped +up to the “Round Pond,” and descends by gravity. +The second supply comes from a well 28 feet deep in +the gravel on “Duck Island,” in St. James’s Park. The +water, which is 19 feet below the surface, remains constant, +that level being the same as the water-bearing +stratum of the Thames valley in London. It is pumped +up to the Serpentine, and returns to the lake in St. +James’s Park, supplying the lake in the gardens of Buckingham +Palace on the way. The deep well provides +about 120,000 gallons, and the shallow about 100,000 +a day. The “Round Pond”—which, by the way, is +not round—affords the greatest delight to the owners,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">45</span> +of all ages, of miniature yachts of all sizes. There are the +large boats with skilful masters, which sail triumphantly +across the placid waters, and there are the small craft that +spend days on the weeds, or founder amid “waves that run +inches high,” like the good steamship <i>Puffin</i> in Anstey’s +amusing poem. When the weeds are cut twice every +summer, many pathetic little wrecks are raised to the surface, +perchance to be restored to the expectant owners.</p> + +<p>Skating was an amusement in Hyde Park even before +the Serpentine existed, and the older ponds often presented +a gay scene in winter, although it was on the +canal in St. James’s Park that the use of the modern +skate is first recorded in Charles II.’s time.</p> + +<p>During the last hundred years Hyde Park has +frequently been disturbed by mobs and rioters, until +it has become the recognised place in which to air +popular discontent in any form, or to ventilate any +grievance. The first serious riot took place at the +funeral of Queen Caroline, in 1821. To avoid any +popular demonstration of feeling, it was arranged that +the funeral procession should not pass through the City. +The Queen had died at Brandenburgh House, and was +to be interred at Brunswick. Instead of going straight +by way of Knightsbridge and Piccadilly, a circuitous +route by Kensington, Bayswater, Islington, and Mile +End was planned. On reaching Kensington Church, +the mob prevented the turn towards Bayswater being +taken. Hyde Park was thronged with an excited crowd, +trying to force the escort to go the way it wished. At +Cumberland Gate quite a severe encounter took place, +in which the Life Guards twice charged the mob. +Further down Oxford Street were barricades, and to avoid +further rioting the procession eventually had to take the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">46</span> +people’s route, passing quietly down to the Strand and +through the City.</p> + +<p>The occasion of the Reform Bill riot in 1831, when +the windows were smashed in Apsley House, is well +known, and from 1855 to 1866 Hyde Park witnessed +many turbulent demonstrations. The first occasion was +in July 1855 against Lord Robert Grosvenor’s “Sunday +Trading Bill,” when some 150,000 people assembled, +and various scenes of disturbance took place. More or +less serious riots were of frequent occurrence, until they +culminated in the Reform League riot in July 1866, +when the railings between Marble Arch and Grosvenor +Gate “were entirely demolished, and the flower-beds +were ruined.” The flower-beds had not been long in +existence when they were wantonly damaged by the mob.</p> + +<figure id="i_p46c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 50em;"> + <img src="images/i_p046c.jpg" width="785" height="554" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p046c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + AUTUMN BEDS, HYDE PARK + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>The idea of introducing flowers into the Park began +about 1860, and the long rows of beds between Stanhope +Gate and Marble Arch were made about that time, when +Mr. Cowper Temple was First Commissioner of Works. +They were made when “bedding out” was at the height +of its fashion, when the one idea was to have large, glaring +patches of bright flowers as dazzling as possible, or minute +and intricate patterns carried out in carpet bedding. Now +this plan has been considerably modified. The process of +alteration has been slow, and the differences in some cases +subtle, but the old stiffness and crudeness has been +banished for ever. The harmony of colours, and variety +of plants used, are the principal features in the present +bedding out. It seems right that the Royal Parks +should lead the way in originality and beauty, and +undoubted success is frequently achieved, although +even the style of to-day has its opponents. The chief +objection from the more practical gardeners is the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">47</span> +putting out of comparatively tender plants in the +summer months, when the same general effect could be +got with a less expenditure both of money and plants. +But on the other hand numbers of people come to study +the beds, note the combinations, and examine the use of +certain plants which they would not otherwise have the +opportunity of testing. The public who enjoy the results, +and often those who most severely criticise, do not know +the system on which the gardening is carried out. Many +are even ignorant enough to suppose that the whole +bedding out is contracted for, and few know the hidden +recesses of Hyde Park, which produces everything for all +the display, both there and in St. James’s Park. The +old place in which all necessary plants were raised was a +series of green-houses and frames in front of Kensington +Palace. The erection of these pits and glass houses completely +destroyed the design of the old garden, although +even now the slope reveals the lines of the old terraces; +and they entirely obscure the beauty of the Orangery. +A few years ago three acres in the centre of Hyde Park +were taken, on which to form fresh nurseries. Gradually +better ranges have been built, and soon the old unsightly +frames at Kensington will disappear. The new garden is +so completely hidden that few have discovered its whereabouts. +The ground selected lies to the north-west of +the Ranger’s Lodge. There, a series of glass houses on +the most approved plan, and rows of frames, have been +erected. The unemployed have found work by excavating +the ground to the depth of some eight feet, and the +gravel taken out has made the wide walk across the Green +Park and the alterations in the “Mall.” A wall and +bank of shrubs and trees so completely hides even the +highest house in which the palms—such as those outside<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">48</span> +the National Gallery—are stored, that it is quite invisible +from the outside. There are storehouses for the bulbs, +and nurseries where masses of wall-flowers, delphiniums, +and all the hardier bedding plants, and those for the herbaceous +borders, are grown. Of late years the number of +beds in the Park has been considerably reduced, without +any diminution of the effect. In 1903 as many as ninety +were done away with between Grosvenor Gate and Marble +Arch. There is now a single row of long beds instead of +three rows with round ones at intervals. But even after +all these reductions the area of flower beds and borders +is very considerable, as the following table will <span class="locked">show:—</span></p> + +<table id="t48" class="blbr"> +<tr class="bt bb"> + <td class="tdl"></td> + <td class="tdc"> Area of Flower Beds.</td> + <td class="tdc"> Area of Flower Borders.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"></td> + <td class="tdc"> Sq. Yds.</td> + <td class="tdc"> Sq. Yds.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Hyde Park</td> + <td class="tdc"> 1742</td> + <td class="tdc"> 2975</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Kensington Gardens</td> + <td class="tdc"> 345</td> + <td class="tdc"> 3564</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">St. James’s Park</td> + <td class="tdc"> 30</td> + <td class="tdc"> 2642</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Queen Victoria<br> Memorial in front of<br> Buckingham Palace</td> + <td class="tdc"> 1270</td> + <td class="tdc"> ...</td> +</tr> +<tr class="bt bb"> + <td class="tdc"> Total</td> + <td class="tdc"> 3687</td> + <td class="tdc"> 9181</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p class="p1">An event of historic importance which took place in +Hyde Park was the Great Exhibition of 1851. Various +sites, such as Battersea, Regent’s Park, Somerset House, +and Leicester Square, were suggested, and the one chosen +met with some opposition, but finally the space between +Rotten Row and Knightsbridge Barracks was decided on. +Plans were submitted for competition, and though 245 +were sent in not one satisfied the committee, so, assisted +by three well-known architects, they evolved a plan of +their own. This was to be carried out in brick; the +labour of removing it after the Exhibition would have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">49</span> +been stupendous. It was when this plan was under +consideration that Paxton showed his idea for the +building of iron and glass so well known as the Crystal +Palace. It was 1851 feet long and 408 wide, with +a projection on the north 936 feet by 48, and the +building covered about 19 acres.</p> + +<p>One stipulation was made before the design was +accepted, and that was that three great elm trees growing +on the site should not be removed, but included +in the building. To effect this, some alterations were +made, and the trees were successfully encased in this +Crystal Palace, and the old trunk of one of them is +still standing in Hyde Park. There is a railing round +it, but no tablet to record this strange chapter in its +history. Some smaller trees were cut down, which led +to a cartoon in <i>Punch</i> and lines on the Prince Consort, +who was the prime mover in all pertaining to the Great +Exhibition.</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“Albert! spare those trees,</div> + <div class="verse indent2">Mind where you fix your show;</div> + <div class="verse indent0">For mercy’s sake, don’t, please,</div> + <div class="verse indent2">Go spoiling Rotten Row.”</div> + </div> +</div> +</div> + +<p>The Exhibition was opened by the Queen on May +1st. The enthusiasm it created in all sections of the +population has known no parallel, and in the success +and excitement the few small elm trees were soon forgotten +by the delighted people, who raised cheers and +<span class="locked">shouted—</span></p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent6">“Huzza for the Crystal Palace,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">And the world’s great National Fair.”</div> + </div> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Hyde Park never saw more people than during the +time it was open from the 1st of May to the 11th of +October, as 6,063,986 persons visited the Exhibition,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">50</span> +an average of 43,000 daily. Its success was phenomenal +also from a financial point of view, as after all +expenses were deducted there was a surplus of £150,000, +with which the land from the Park to South Kensington +was purchased, on which the Albert Hall and museums +have been built.</p> + +<p>It seems to have been the complete originality of +the whole structure that captivated all beholders. In +his memoirs the eighth Duke of Argyll refers to the +opening as the most beautiful spectacle he had ever +seen. “Merely,” he writes, “as a spectacle of joy and +of supreme beauty, the opening of the Great Exhibition +of 1851 stands in my memory as a thing unapproachable +and alone. This supreme beauty was mainly in the +building, not in its contents, nor even in the brilliant +and happy throng that filled it. The sight was a new +sensation, as if Fancy had been suddenly unveiled. +Nothing like it had ever been seen before—its light-someness, +its loftiness, its interminable vistas, its aisles +and domes of shining and brilliant colouring.”</p> + +<p>It was with the recollection of this world-famous +Exhibition fresh in men’s minds that the site for the +Albert Memorial was chosen. The idea conceived by +Sir Gilbert Scott was the reproduction on a large scale +of a mediæval shrine or reliquary. When it was erected +an alteration was made in some of the avenues in Kensington +Gardens, so as to bring one into line with the +Memorial. A fresh avenue of elms and planes straight +to the monument was planted, which joined into the +original one, and a few trees were dotted about to break +the old line. As first planned, the avenue must have +commanded a view of Paddington Church steeple in +the vista.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">51</span></p> + +<p>There is no better refutation of the theory that only +plane trees will live in London, than an examination of +the trees in Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens. An +appendix to this volume gives a list of the trees and +shrubs which have been planted there, and notes those +which are not in existence, having proved unsuitable +to London, or been removed from some other cause. +Many people will doubtless be surprised at the length +of the list. A large number of the trees are really fine +specimens, and would do credit to any park in the +kingdom. Take, for instance, some of the ash trees. +There is a very fine group not very far from the Mount +Gate inside Kensington Gardens. Two specimens with +light feathery foliage, <i class="flora" lang="la">Fraxinus lentiscifolia</i> and <i class="flora" lang="la">F. excelsior +angustifolia</i>, when seen like lace against the sky, are remarkably +pretty trees. Not far from them stand a +good tulip tree and the last remaining of the old Scotch +firs. The Ailanthus Avenue from the Serpentine Bridge +towards Rotten Row, planted in 1876, is looking most +prosperous. There are a few magnificent ancient sweet +chestnuts above the bastion near the Magazine. The +trees planted from time to time have wisely been grouped +together according to species. Near the Ranger’s Lodge, +outside the new frame-ground, some birches grow well, +and their white stems are washed every year. The collection +of pavias, which flower delightfully in the small +three-cornered enclosure where the road divides at the +Magazine, are most flourishing. To the south-west of +the fountains at the end of the Serpentine, some very +good Turkey and American oaks are growing into large +trees. Several really old thorns are dotted about. In +a walk from the “Round Pond,” by the stone which +marks the boundary of three parishes, towards Bayswater,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">52</span> +grand specimens of oak, ash, lime, elm, sweet +and horse-chestnuts are met with. The avenue of +horse-chestnuts is just as flourishing as those of planes +or elms. In fact the whole Park shows how well trees +will succeed if sufficient care is taken of them. One +feature of the Park in old days was the Walnut Avenue, +which grew nearly on the lines of the present trees +between Grosvenor Gate and the Achilles Statue. They +were decayed and were cut down in 1811, and the best +of the wood was used for gunstocks for the army. It +is a pity no walnut avenue was planted instead, as by +now it would have been a fine shady walk. The old +elms, which are of such great beauty in Hyde Park, +have, alas! often to be sacrificed for the safety of passers-by, +so that the recent severe lopping was necessary. +Their great branches are the first to fall in a gale. +Yet when one has to be removed there is an outcry, +though people tamely submit to a whole row of trees +being ruined by tram lines along the Embankment, so +inconsistent is public opinion. It is almost incredible +what narrow escapes from destruction even the beauty +of Hyde Park has had. In 1884 a Metropolitan and +Parks Railway Bill was before Parliament, which actually +proposed to cross the Park by tunnels and cuttings which +would have completely disfigured “The Dell” and other +parts of the Park. In this utilitarian age nothing is +sacred.</p> + +<p>The Dell had not been ten years in its present form +when the proposal was made. The site of the Dell was +a receiving lake, about 200 yards by 70, which had been +made in 1734. This was done away with in 1844, and +the overflow of the Serpentine allowed to pass over +the artificial rocks which still remain. It was enveloped<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">53</span> +in a dark and dirty shrubbery, the haunt of all the +ruffians and the worst characters who frequented the Park +at night. The place was not safe to pass after dark, +neither had it any beauty to recommend it. It was in +this state when the present Lord Redesdale became +Secretary of the Office of Works in 1874. He conceived +the idea of turning it into a sub-tropical garden, +designed the banks of the little stream, and introduced +suitable planting, banishing the old shrubs, and merely +using the best to form a background to the spireas, +iris, giant coltsfoot, osmundas, day lilies, and such-like, +which adorned the water’s edge in front. The dark +history of the Dell is quite forgotten, and watching the +ducks and rabbits playing about this pretty spot is one +of the chief delights of Hyde Park.</p> + +<p>The monolith which stands near was brought from +Liskeard in Cornwall by Mr. Cowper Temple, when +First Commissioner of Works, and set up in its present +place as a drinking-fountain in 1862. In 1887 the +water was cut off it, the railings altered, and the turf +laid round it, joining it on to the rest of the Dell. +To Lord Redesdale are due also the rhododendrons +which make such a glorious show on either side of +Rotten Row. He contracted with Messrs. Anthony +Waterer for a yearly supply, as they only look their +best for a short time exposed to London air. In his +time, too, many of the small flower-beds which were +dotted about without much rhyme or reason were done +away with, and the borders at the edge of the shrubs +substituted.</p> + +<p>The latest addition to Hyde Park is the fountain +presented by Sir Walter Palmer and put up near the +end of the “Row” in 1906. The sculpture and design<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">54</span> +are the work of Countess Feodore Gleichen. The graceful +figure of Artemis, with bow and arrow, and the supporting +cariatides, are of bronze, the upper basin of +Saravezza marble, and the lower of Tecovertino stone. +The whole is most light and elegant, and shows up well +against the dark trees.</p> + +<figure id="i_p54c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 30em;"> + <img src="images/i_p054c.jpg" width="556" height="835" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p054c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + FOUNTAIN BY COUNTESS FEODOR GLEICHEN, HYDE PARK + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>It has only been possible to glance at the history and +beauties of Hyde Park; many more pages could be +written without touching on half of the incidents connected +with it, between the days when it was monastic +lands to the days of the modern Sunday “Church Parade.” +It is interesting to trace the origin of the little customs +with which every one is now familiar, but which once +were new and original. For instance, the naming of +trees and flowers in the Parks was first done about 1842, +the idea having been suggested by Loudon, and carried +out by Nash the architect, and George Don the botanist. +Then the system of paying a penny for a seat began in +1820, but when some of the free seats were removed in +1859 there was a great outcry, and they were immediately +put back. Then the meets of the Four-in-hand and +Coaching Clubs, which are quite an institution in Hyde +Park, only continue the tradition of the “Whip Club,” +which first met in 1808. The history of the various +gates calls for notice. The Marble Arch, designed by +Nash, with ornaments by Flaxman, Westmacott, and +Rossi, in Carrara marble, was moved from Buckingham +Palace to its present position in 1851. Over £4000 was +expended on the removal, while the original sum spent +was £75,000. The statue of George IV. by Chantrey, +now in Pall Mall East, was intended for the top, and cost +9000 guineas, and the bronze gates are by Samuel Parker. +Near that corner of the Park was a stone where soldiers<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">55</span> +were shot, and one of the historians of the Park states +that it is still there, only covered over with earth when the +new Cumberland Gate was made in 1822. Apsley Gate +at Hyde Park Corner was designed by Decimus Burton, +and put up in 1827, and he planned the arch forming +the entrance to Constitution Hill the following year. +The stags, by Bartolozzi, on Albert Gate, came from +the Ranger’s Lodge in Green Park. Grosvenor Gate was +opened about 1724, and Stanhope Gate some twenty-five +years later. All the others are more modern.</p> + +<p>Those who wish to pursue the subject further will +find such details more or less accessible in various guide-books. +But to every one the Park, with all its charms, +its beauties, and its memories, is open, and it is certain +that the better it is known the more it will be appreciated.</p> +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">56</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_III"><span id="toclink_56"></span><span class="gesperrt">CHAPTER III</span><br> + +<span class="subhead">ST. JAMES’S AND GREEN PARKS</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Near this my Muse, what most delights her, sees</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>A living Gallery of Aged Trees:</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Bold sons of Earth, that thrust their Arms so high,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>As if once more they would invade the Sky.</i></div> + </div> + <div class="tb">* * * * *</div> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Here Charles contrives the ord’ring of his States;</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Here he resolves his neighb’ring Princes’ Fates;</i></div> + </div> + <div class="tb">* * * * *</div> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>A Prince on whom such diff’rent Lights did smile,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Born the divided World to reconcile.</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Whatever Heav’n or high extracted Blood</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Could promise or foretel, he’ll make it good,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Reform these Nations, and improve them more</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Than this fair Park, from what it was before.</i></div> + </div> + <div class="attrib">—<span class="smcap">St. James’s Park</span>: “Poetical Essay,” by Waller.</div> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="idc idcT"><img src="images/i_idc_t.png" width="180" height="181" alt="T"> +<span class="firstword">The</span> opening history of St. James’s +and Green Parks is similar to that +of Hyde Park. They formed part +of the same manor in early days, +and became Crown property in +Henry VIII.’s time. St. James’s +Park was chiefly a marsh. The +Thames overflowed its banks +nearly every year, and the low-lying parts were a swamp +and the haunt of wild fowl, and the chief use of the +Park was for the sport the wild birds afforded. The +Tyburn flowed through it on its way from where it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">57</span> +crossed the modern Oxford Street to where it joined +the Thames, a little west of where Vauxhall Bridge +afterwards stood. It passed right across Green Park, +where the depression of its valley can still be traced +between Half Moon Street and Down Street. The +name, St. James’s, originated with the hospital for lepers, +dedicated to St. James, on the site of the present palace. +The exact date of its foundation is lost in the mists of +antiquity, but it was established by the citizens of +London, “before the time of any man’s memorie, for +14 Sisters, maydens, that were leprous, living chastly +and honestly in Divine Service.” Later, there were +further gifts of land and money from the citizens, and +“8 brethren to minister Divine Service there” were +added to the foundation. All these gifts were subsequently +confirmed by Edward I., who granted a fair +to be held for seven days, commencing on the eve of +St. James’s Day, in St. James’s Fields, which belonged to +the hospital. The letting out of the land for booths +became a source of further income to the lepers. Stowe +shortly tells the subsequent history. “This Hospital +was surrendered to Henry the 8 the 23 of his reigne: +the Sisters being compounded with were allowed Pensions +for terme of their lives, and the King builded there a +goodly Mannor, annexing thereunto a Park, closed about +with a wall of brick, now called St. James’s Parke, serving +indifferently to the said Mannor, and to the Mannor +or Palace of Whitehall.” At first sight the summary +ejection of these helpless creatures appears unusually +heartless, even for those days; but leprosy, which during +the time of the Crusades had grown to a formidable +extent, was declining in the sixteenth century in England. +It is probable, therefore, that the poor outcast<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">58</span> +sisters, possessed of their pensions, would be able to find +shelter in one of the other leper hospitals, of which there +were still a number in the country.</p> + +<p>The space between Whitehall and Westminster, +acquired from the Abbey, was turned into an orchard. +The site of Montagu House was the bowling-green of +the Palace, which stretched to the river. A high terrace +and flight of steps led to the Privy Garden of Whitehall, +so, except for the Palace and the Westminster group, +there were no buildings between the river and the Park. +It requires some stretch of the imagination to efface the +well-known edifices which now surround it, and to see it +in its natural state. Flights of wild birds would pass +from the marshy ground to the river, unchecked by the +pile of Government offices. Behind the Leper Hospital +lay fields and scattered houses. The far-off villages of +Knightsbridge and Chelsea would scarcely come into sight, +while beyond the village of Charing the walls and towers +of the City would loom in the distance. Henry VIII. +made some alterations, and may have partially drained +the ground and stocked it with deer. Old maps show +a pond at the west end, near the present Wellington +Barracks, called Rosamund’s Pond. The origin of the +name is uncertain, but “Rosemonsbore, or Rosamund’s +Bower,” occurs in a lease of land near this spot from the +Abbey of Westminster as early as 1520. Hard by was a +“mount,” such as was to be seen in every sixteenth-century +garden, probably with an arbour and seat on the +top to overlook the pond. The first mention of St. +James’s as a Park is in 1539, on an occasion described +in Hall’s Chronicle, when Henry VIII. held a review +of the city militia. “The King himself,” writes the +chronicler, “would see the people of the Citie muster<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">59</span> +in sufficient nombre....” Some 15,000, leaving the +City after passing by St. Paul’s Churchyard, went +“directly to Westminster and so through the Sanctuary +and round about the Park of St. James, and so up into +the fields and came home through Holborne.”</p> + +<p>It was not until James I.’s time that the Park began +to be esteemed as a resort for those attached to the Court. +Prince Henry, the elder brother of Charles I., made the +tilting-ring on the site of the present Horse Guards’ +Parade, and brought the enclosure more into vogue for +games. James I. made use of the Park for his own +hobbies, one of which was the encouragement of growing +vines and mulberries in England. He planted considerable +vineyards, and in 1609 he sent a circular letter to +the Lords-Lieutenant of each county, ordering them to +announce that the following spring a thousand mulberry +trees would be sent to each county town, and people +were required to buy them at the rate of three-farthings +a plant. To further prosecute his plan, the King set +an example by planting a mulberry orchard at the end +of St. James’s Park. The place afterwards became a +fashionable tea garden, and Buckingham Palace is partly +built on the site. The King kept also quite a large +menagerie of beasts and birds presented to him by +various crowned heads, or sent to him by friends and +favourites. There are records of elephants, camels, +antelopes, beavers, crocodiles, wild boars, and sables, +besides many kinds of birds. The keepers of the +animals received large salaries, and the cost of the care +of these beasts would frighten the Zoological Society of +to-day. No expense was spared to give the best and +most suitable surroundings to the animals. For instance, +as much as £286 was expended in 1618 by Robert<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">60</span> +Wood, the keeper of the cormorants, ospreys, and otters, +“in building a place to keep the said cormorants in +and making nine fish-ponds on land within the vine +garden at Westminster.” Fish were put in for these +creatures, and a sluice was made to bring water from +the Thames to fill the ponds. These strange beasts +and birds and their attendants must have been a +quaint and unusual sight. The keepers were dressed +in red cloth (which cost nine shillings a yard), embroidered +with “I.R.” in Venice gold, and must have +added to the picturesque appearance of this early +Zoological Garden.</p> + +<p>Gradually the Park became more and more a favourite +place in which to stroll. Others were admitted besides +the Court circle, the privilege being first accorded to the +tenants of the houses at Westminster. Milton, who lived +at one time in Petty France, near where Queen Anne’s +Gate now stands, planted a tree in the garden overlooking +the Park, which survived until recent times, +would be one of those to enjoy the advantage. Charles +I. passed this way on his last journey to Whitehall on +the fatal 30th of January, and tradition says he paused +to notice a tree planted by his brother Henry. During +the Commonwealth, the Park still was resorted to. In +the sprightly letters of Dorothy Osborne to Sir William +Temple are some vivid little touches in reference to +it. She writes from the country in March 1654: “And +hark you, can you tell me whether the gentleman that +lost a crystal box the 1st of February in St. James’s +Park or Old Spring Gardens has found it again or not? +I have a strong curiosity to know.” Again, in June +of the same year, she writes from London, where she +was paying a visit: “I’ll swear they will not allow me<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">61</span> +time for anything; and to show how absolutely I am +governed, I need but tell you that I am every night +in the Park and at New Spring Gardens, where, though +I come with a mask, I cannot escape being known nor +my conversation being admired.”</p> + +<p>The most brilliant days of its history began, however, +in Charles II.’s reign. He entirely remodelled it, +and began the work soon after his return from exile, +imbued with foreign ideas of gardening. It has always +been supposed that Le Nôtre was responsible for the +designs, and it has often been asserted that he himself +came to England to see them carried out. But close +investigation has furnished no proof of this, and it is +practically certain that, although invited, and allowed +by Louis XIV. to come to England, he never actually +did so. Other “French gardeners” certainly came, and +one of them, La Quintinge, made many English friends, +and kept up a correspondence with them after his return +to France. Perrault probably visited London also, and +may have superintended the “French gardeners” who +were employed on St. James’s Park. They transformed +the whole place. Avenues—the Mall and “Birdcage +Walk”—were planted. A straight canal passed down +the middle, and at the end, near the present Foreign +Office, was the duck decoy. The “Birdcage Walk” +is no fantastic title, for birds were literally kept there +in cages. These were probably aviaries for large birds, +and not little hanging cages, as has been sometimes +suggested. A well-known passage occurs in Evelyn’s +Diary, 1664, where he enumerates some of the birds +and beasts he saw during one of his walks through +the Park. The pelican delighted him, although “a +melancholy waterfowl,” and he watched the skilful way<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">62</span> +it devoured fish; and it is not surprising that he recorded +the strange fact that one of the two Balearian +cranes had a wooden leg, made by a soldier, with a +joint, so that the bird could “walk and use it as well +as if it had been natural”; and he speaks with interest +of a solan goose, a stork, a milk-white raven, and “a +curious sort of poultry,” besides “deer of several +countries,” antelopes, elk, “Guinea goats, Arabian +sheep, etc.” The duck decoy lay at the south-west end +of the long canal, which formed part of the new French +design. This “duck island” was rather a series of +small islands, as it was intersected by canals and reed-covered +channels for catching duck. This was a +favourite resort of Charles II., who has often been described +feeding his ducks in St. James’s Park. To be +keeper of the ducks, or “Governor of Duck Island,” +was granted to St. Evremond, an excuse for bestowing +a yearly salary on a favourite. The birds continued +after the King, who had found in them a special recreation, +had passed away. In William III.’s time the +Park is still described as “full of very fine walkes and +rowes of trees, ponds, and curious birds, Deer, and some +fine Cows.” A Dutch traveller who was in England +from 1693–96 notices the famous old white raven. By +that time the ducks were no longer the fashion, and +evidently there was an inclination to despise the former +craze for wild fowl. A Frenchman, named M. de +Sorbiere, visited England about this time, and wrote an +account of his impressions. Some of his adverse criticisms +of English people and institutions got him into trouble. +A supposed translation of his book was published in +1698, and until 1709 was held to be a correct version. +In reality it was a clever skit, and not in the least like<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">63</span> +the original. In the true version he describes the Park +with its rows of trees and “admirable prospect” of +the suburbs, and mentions that the King had “erected +a tall Pile in the Park, the better to make use of +Telescopes, with which Sir Robert Murray shew’d me +Saturn and the Satellites of Jupiter.” Not a word about +the ducks. But in the spurious parody of 1698 there +is a humorous description, which shows how the next +generation laughed at the amusements of King Charles II. +“I was at St. James’s Park; there were no Pavillions, +nor decoration of Treilliage and Flowers; but I saw +there a vast number of Ducks; these were a most +surprising sight. I could not forbear to say to Mr. +Johnson, who was pleased to accompany me in this +Walk, that sure all the ponds in England had contributed +to this profussion of Ducks; which he took so +well, that he ran immediately to an Old Gentleman that +sate in a Chair, and was feeding of ’em. He rose up very +obligingly, embraced me, and saluted me with a Kiss, +and invited me to Dinner; telling me he was infinitely +oblig’d to me for flattering the King’s Ducks.”</p> + +<p>Little attention was paid to the wild fowl in the +Park after that date, until the Prince Consort took an +interest in them. In 1841 he became the Patron of the +Ornithological Society, and the cottage on Duck Island +was built for the Bird-keeper. For some thirty years +the Society flourished, and kept up the supply and cared +for the birds in the Park. In 1867, however, their +numbers were greatly reduced, and the Society sold +their collection of birds to H.M. Office of Works, +which has since then had them under its charge. It is +pleasant to know that the old tradition of the wild fowl +in that part of the Park is maintained. Although the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">64</span> +duck pond of King Charles’s time must have looked +somewhat different from that of to-day, the birds can be +made as much at home, and they nest peacefully on the +modern Duck Island, its direct descendant. Moorhens +and dabchicks, or little grebes, have for the last twenty +years nested in the Park. They used to leave for the +breeding season, but since 1883, when the first moorhen +nested, they have gradually taken to remaining contentedly +all through the year, and bring up their young +there. Birds seem to choose the Park to rest in, and +many migratory ones have been noticed. Kingfishers +have recently been let out near the site of the ancient +bird cages, in the hope that they may carry on the +historic association.</p> + +<figure id="i_p64c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 28em;"> + <img src="images/i_p064c.jpg" width="478" height="748" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p064c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + CROCUSES IN EARLY SPRING, ST. JAMES’S PARK + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>The cows, which were a part of ancient history, as +were the birds, have not been so fortunate. Although +a newspaper clamour in defence of the cows was raised, +the few remaining were finally banished in 1905, when +the alterations in the Mall were made. These survivals +standing by the dusty stalls could scarcely be called +picturesque; and although interest undoubtedly was +attached to them as venerable survivals of an old custom, +they hardly suggested the rural simplicity of the days +when cows were really pastured in the Park. For over +two centuries grazing was let to the milk-women who +sold milk at the end of the Park, near Whitehall. They +paid half-a-crown a week, and after 1772 three shillings +a week, for the right to feed cattle in the Park. A +Frenchman, describing St. James’s at that time, is astonished +at its rural aspect. “In that part nearest Westminster +nature appears in all its rustic simplicity; it is +a meadow, regularly intersected and watered by canals, +and with willows and poplars, without any regard to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">65</span> +order. On this side, as well as on that towards St. +James’s Palace, the grass plots are covered with cows +and deer, where they graze or chew the cud, some +standing, some lying down upon the grass.... Agreeably +to this rural simplicity, most of these cows are +driven, about noon and evening, to the gate which leads +from the Park to the quarter of Whitehall. Tied to +posts at the extremity of the grass plots, they swill passengers +with their milk, which, being drawn from their +udders on the spot, is served, with all cleanliness peculiar +to the English, in little mugs at the rate of a penny a +mug.” The combination of the gay crowd in hooped +petticoats, brilliant coats, and powdered wigs, with the +peaceful, green meadows and the browsing deer and cows, +forms an attractive picture.</p> + +<p>All this had changed long before the final departure +of the cattle, when the last old woman was pensioned off, +and the sheds carted away. A use was found for the +fragments of the concrete foundations of the last milkmaid’s +stall. They were made into a sort of rockery, +on which Alpine plants grow well, to support the bank at +the entrance to the new frame-grounds at Hyde Park.</p> + +<p>But to return to Charles II.’s time, when the cows +were undisturbed. The great feature of what Pepys +calls the “brave alterations” was the canal. He +mentions more than one visit when the works were in +progress. In October 1660 he went “to walk in St. +James’s Park, where we observed the several engines at +work to draw up water, with which sight I was very +much pleased.” The canal, when finished, was 2800 +feet long and 100 broad, and ran through the centre of +the Park, beginning near the north end of. Rosamund’s +Pond. An avenue of trees was planted on either side,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">66</span> +passing down between the canal and the duck decoy to +a semicircular double avenue near the tilting-ground. +Deer wandered under fine old oaks between the canal +and the avenues of “the Mall.” These old trees have +gradually disappeared, as much through gales as from +the wanton destruction of the would-be improver. At +the hour of Cromwell’s death, when the storm was so +fierce the Royalists said it was due to fiends coming to +claim their own, much havoc was wrought; and from +time to time similar destructions have taken place, one +of the most serious being in November 1703, when +part of the wall and over 100 elms were blown down. +Another notable gale was on March 15, 1752, when +many people lost their lives. “In St. James’s Park and +the villages about the metropolis great numbers of trees +were demolished.”</p> + +<p>The broad pathway, between avenues on the opposite +side of the Park to the Birdcage Walk, now called the +Mall, derives this name from the game of “paille-maille,” +which is known to have been played in France +as early as the thirteenth century, and which was popular +in England in the seventeenth. The locality, however, +where it was first played in James I.’s time was on the +northern side of the street, which is still called from it, +Pall Mall. In those days fields stretched away beyond +where now St. James’s Square lies, and a single row of +houses lay between the playground and the Park. As +the game became more the fashion, the coaches and dust +were found too disturbing for enjoyment, and a new +ground was laid out, running parallel to the old one, +but within the Park. The game is considered by some +to be a forerunner of croquet, as it was played with a ball +(= <i lang="la">pila</i>) and mallet, the name being derived from these<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">67</span> +two words. One or more hoops had to be passed +through, and a peg at the further end touched. The +winner was the player who passed the hoops and reached +the peg in the fewest number of strokes. The whole +course measured over 600 yards, and was kept brushed +and smooth, and the ground prepared by coating the +earth with crushed shells, which, however, remarked +Pepys, “in dry weather turns to dust and deads the +ball.” Both Charles II. and James II. were much +addicted to the game, and the flattering poet Waller +eulogises King Charles’s “matchless” <span class="locked">skill:—</span></p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“No sooner has he touched the flying ball,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">But ’tis already more than half the Mall.”</div> + </div> +</div> +</div> + +<p>The Park was by his time a much-frequented spot, +and crowds delighted to watch the King and his courtiers +displaying their dexterity. Charles II. is more intimately +connected with St. James’s Park than any other great +personage. He sauntered about, fed his ducks, played +his games, and made love to fair ladies, all with indulgent, +friendly crowds watching. He stood in the +“Green Walk,” beneath the trees, to talk with Nell +Gwynn, in her garden “on a terrace on the top of the +wall” overlooking the Park; and shocked John Evelyn, +who records, in his journal, that he heard and saw “a +very familiar discourse between the King and Mrs. +Nelly.” Charles’s well-known reply to his brother, that +no one would ever kill him to put James on the throne, +was said in answer to James’s protest that he should not +venture to roam about so much without attendants in +the Park. His dogs often accompanied him, and +perhaps, like most of their descendants, these pets had +a sporting instinct, and ran off to chase the deer. Anyhow,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">68</span> +they managed frequently to escape their master’s +vigilance, and fell a prey to the unscrupulous thief, and +descriptions of the missing dogs were published in the +Gazette. One, answering to the name Towser, was +“liver colour’d and white spotted”; and a “dogg of +His Majestie’s, full of blew spots, with a white cross on +his forehead about the bigness of a tumbler,” was lost on +another occasion.</p> + +<p>Charles with his dogs, his ducks, his wit, his engaging +manners, his doubtful morals, is the central figure of many +a picture in St. James’s Park, but it does not often form +a background to his Queen. One scene described by +Pepys has much charm. The party, returning from Hyde +Park on horseback with a great crowd of gallants, pass +down the Mall; the Queen, riding hand in hand with +the King, looking “mighty pretty” in her white laced +coat and crimson petticoat. Again, on another occasion, +the Queen forms an attractive vision, as she walks with +her ladies from Whitehall to St. James’s dressed from +head to foot in silver lace, each holding an immense +green fan to shade themselves from the fierce rays of the +June sun, while a delighted crowd throng round them.</p> + +<p>The popularity of the Mall as the rendezvous of all +classes lasted for over a century. Through the reigns +of Queen Anne and George I. and II. all the fashionable +world of London congregated there twice daily. In the +morning the promenade took them there from twelve +to two, and after dinner in full dress they thronged +thither again, not to play the game of paille-maille, which +was then out of fashion, but simply to walk about under +the trees and be amused with races, wrestlings, or an +impromptu dance. Every well-known person—courtiers, +wits, beaux, writers, poets, artists, soldiers—and all the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">69</span> +beautiful and fascinating women, great ladies as well +as more humble charmers, and bold adventuresses, were +to be seen there daily.</p> + +<p>The crowds seem to have been very free in their +admiration of some of the distinguished ladies. When +the three lovely Misses Gunning captivated everybody +with their wit and beauty, they had only to appear in +the Mall to be surrounded by admirers. On one occasion +they were so pressed by the curious mob that one of +these matchless young charmers fainted and had to be +“carried home in a sedan.”</p> + +<p>On looking at an old print of the ladies in their thin +dresses walking in the Mall, it is customary to bemoan +the change of climate, to wonder if our great-great-grand-mothers +were supernaturally strong and not sensitive +to cold, or to conclude that they only paraded there in +fine weather. Apparently this last is not the correct +solution, for in 1765 they astonished Monsieur Grosley +by their disregard of the elements. He is horrified at +the fog. “The smoke,” he writes, “forms a cloud +which envelopes London like a mantle; a cloud which +the sun pervades but rarely; a cloud which, recoiling +back upon itself, suffers the sun to break out only +now and then, which casual appearance procures the +Londoners a few of what they call <em>glorious days</em>. The +great love of the English for walking defies the badness +of other days. On the 26th April, St. James’s Park, +incessantly covered with fogs, smoke, and rain, that +scarce left a possibility of distinguishing objects at a +distance of four steps, was filled with walkers, who were +an object of musing and admiration to me during the +whole day.” Few ladies nowadays fear a little fog or +rain, but to walk in it they must be attired in short<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">70</span> +skirts, thick boots, and warm or mackintosh coats. It +must have been much more distressing in the days of +powdered hair, picture hats, and flimsy garments. No +wonder M. Grosley was astounded at the persistence +of the poor draggled ladies.</p> + +<p>All foreign visitors to London naturally went to +see the Mall. Here is the account of a German baron, +describing the man of the world: “He rises late, dresses +himself in a frock (close-fitting garment, without pockets, +and with narrow sleeves), leaves his sword at home, takes +his cane, and goes where he likes. Generally he takes +his promenade in the Park, for that is the exchange +for the men of quality. ’Tis such another place as the +Garden of the Tuileries in Paris, only the Park has a +certain beauty of simplicity which cannot be described. +The grand walk is called the Mall. It is full of people +at all hours of the day, but especially in the morning +and evening, when their Majesties often walk there, with +the royal family, who are attended only by half-a-dozen +Yeomen of the Guard, and permit all persons to walk at +the same time with them.”</p> + +<p>A writer in 1727, waxing eloquent on the charms +of the Park, gives up the task of describing it, as “the +beauty of the Mall in summer is almost past description.” +“What can be more glorious than to view the body of +the nobility of our three kingdoms in so short a compass, +especially when freed from mixed crowds of saucy fops +and city gentry?” But more often the company was +very mixed, and manners peculiar. This brilliant and +motley assembly indulged in all kinds of amusements. +Even the grandest frequenters afforded diversion sometimes +to the “saucy fops.” Wrestling matches between +various courtiers attracted crowds, or a race such as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">71</span> +one between the Duke of Grafton and Dr. Garth, +of 200 yards, was the excitement of the day. There +were odd and original races got up, and wagers freely +staked. Some inhuman parents backed their baby of +eighteen months old to walk the whole length of the +Mall (half a mile) in thirty minutes, and the poor little +mite performed the feat in twenty-three minutes. What +comments would modern philanthropic societies have +made on such a performance!</p> + +<p>A race between a fat cook and a lean footman caused +great merriment, but as the footman was handicapped by +carrying 110 lbs., the fat cook won. Another time it +was a hopping-race which engrossed attention—a man +undertook to hop one hundred yards in fifty hops, and +succeeded in doing it in forty-six—and endless variety +of similar follies. The crowds who assembled indulged +in every sort of gaiety; “in short, no freedoms that can +be taken here are reckoned indecent; all passes for raillery +and harmless gallantry.”</p> + +<p>Although open to all the world for walking, only +royal personages or a few specially favoured people were +allowed to drive through. It was one of the grievances +of the Duchess of Marlborough when the Duke was +in disgrace that the privilege of driving her coach and +six through the Park was denied her. The remaining +restrictions with regard to carriages have only passed +away in very recent years. The notice board stating that +Members of Parliament during the session might drive +through the Park from Great George Street to Marlborough +House was only removed when the road was +opened to all traffic in 1887, and Constitution Hill +only became a public highway in 1889. The use of +the road passing under the Horse Guards’ Archway is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">72</span> +still restricted to those who receive special permission +from the sovereign.</p> + +<p>The Park had never been drained, and had always +shown signs of its marshy origin, and “Duck Island” +was really a natural swamp. An unusually high tide +flooded the low-lying end where the Horse Guards’ +Parade and the houses of Downing Street with their +little gardens now stand. What state secrets they could +divulge had they the power of speech! The tilting-ground +was often in a condition quite unfit for the +exercise of troops, so with a view to preventing this, it +was paved with stone early in the eighteenth century. +It has always been used for military displays, and the +trooping of the colours on the King’s birthday takes +place on the same ground which witnessed the brilliant +scene when the colours, thirty-eight in number, captured +at the battle of Blenheim were conveyed to Westminster +Abbey. On the parade-ground now stands the gun cast +at Seville, used by Soult at Cadiz, and taken after the +battle of Salamanca. Here many an impressive ceremony +of distributing medals, and countless parades, have +taken place through many generations. Here, with the +brutality of old days, corporal punishment was administered, +and offending soldiers were flogged in full +view of the merry-making crowds assembled in the Park. +Round the Park lay other marshy lands, also frequently +flooded by the Thames, and it was not surprising that +on one occasion an otter found its way from the river and +settled down on Duck Island and there grew fat on the +King’s carp. Sir Robert Walpole sent to Houghton for +his otter-hounds, and an exciting hunt ensued, in which +the Duke of Cumberland took part, and the offending +otter was captured.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">73</span></p> + +<p>Rosamund’s Pond had, in the course of time, become +stagnant and unpleasant, and there were frequent complaints +of its unsavoury condition. About 1736 a machine +for pumping out water was invented by a Welshman, +and used successfully to empty the pond, and it was +thoroughly cleansed. Thirty years later the same evil +began again to be a nuisance, and it was decided to drain +and fill up the pond entirely, which was accomplished +about 1772. The trees on the island were felled, and +those near the bank died from the lack of water, so at +first the absence of the slimy pond must have been disfiguring. +The shady walk near it, known as the Close +Walk or the Jacobites’ Walk, must have disappeared +when the trees died. About the same time the swampy +moat round Duck Island was filled up and the canal +cleaned out. When these improvements were completed +in 1775 some birds were put on the canal. One of them +was a swan called Jack, belonging to Queen Charlotte, +which was reared in the garden of Buckingham House. +This bird ruled the roost for many a day, and was a +popular favourite. It lived until 1840, when some +new arrivals, in the shape of Polish geese, pecked and +ill-treated the poor old bird so seriously that he died.</p> + +<p>About 1786 fashion began to desert the Mall for the +Green Park, and the crowds which collected there were +no longer intermingled with the Court circle. In a letter +to her daughter Madame Roland describes the company +in the Mall as very different from what it was a few years +earlier, for though it was “very brilliant on a Sunday +evening, and full of well-to-do people and well-dressed +women, in general they are all tradespeople and citizens.” +A generation later the Mall seems to have become quite +deserted. Sir Richard Phillips, in his morning’s walk<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">74</span> +from London to Kew in 1817, bemoans the absence of +the gay <span class="locked">throng:—</span></p> + +<p>“My spirits sank, and a tear started into my eyes, as +I brought to mind those crowds of beauty, rank, and +fashion which, until within these few years, used to be +displayed in the centre Mall of this Park on Sunday +evenings during spring and summer. How often in my +youth had I been the delighted spectator of the enchanted +and enchanting assemblage. Here used to promenade, +for one or two hours after dinner, the whole British +world of gaiety, beauty, and splendour. Here could be +seen in one moving mass, extending the whole length of +the Mall, 5000 of the most lovely women in this country +of female beauty, all splendidly attired, and accompanied +by as many well-dressed men. What a change, I exclaimed, +has a few years wrought in these once happy +and cheerful personages! How many of those who on +this very spot then delighted my eyes are now mouldering +in the silent grave!”</p> + +<p>About 1730 Queen Caroline, who was then busy with +the alterations in Hyde Park, turned her attention to what +is now known as the Green Park also. It had all formed +part of St. James’s Park, and was known as the Upper Park +or Little St. James’s Park. It was enclosed by a brick wall +in 1667 by Charles II., who stocked it with deer. In the +centre of the Park an ice-house was made, at that time +a great novelty in this country, although well known in +France and Italy. In his poem on St. James’s Park +Waller alludes to <span class="locked">it:—</span></p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“Yonder the harvest of cold months laid up</div> + <div class="verse indent2">Gives a fresh coolness to the royal cup;</div> + <div class="verse indent0">There ice like crystal firm and never lost</div> + <div class="verse indent2">Tempers hot July with December’s frost.”</div> + </div> +</div> +</div> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">75</span></p> +<p>No further alterations were made, except that, in 1681, +Charles effected an exchange of land with the Earl of +Arlington, on which, a few years later, Arlington Street +was built. The path which runs parallel with the backs +of these houses was Queen Caroline’s idea, and she used it +frequently herself, and it became known as the “Queen’s +Walk.” The houses overlooking the Park went up in +value as the occupants could enjoy the sight of the Queen +and the Princesses taking their daily walk. The line of +this path is no longer the same, as a piece was cut off the +Park in 1795 and leased to the Duke of Bridgewater to +add to the garden of his house. The Queen also built +a pavilion known as the Queen’s Library in the Park, +where she spent some time after her morning promenades. +Although Queen Caroline took to the Upper Park, the +world of fashion did not follow at once, and it was not +until about 1786 that the Green Park for some reason +suddenly became the rage. The only incident of historic +interest between this date and the making of the road +was the celebration of the end of the War of Succession +in the spring following the Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle. A +great pavilion like a Doric temple, 410 feet long and 114 +feet high, was erected near the wall separating the Green +Park from St. James’s, and on the 27th of April a grand +display of fireworks was arranged. A fire, however, +broke out just as the performance was beginning, when a +grand overture composed by Handel had been performed, +and the King and dense crowds were watching the illuminations. +The flames were got under, but not before +much of the temporary building had been destroyed, and +the greater part of the fireworks perished in the flames, +and several fatal and serious accidents further marred the +entertainment.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">76</span></p> + +<p>Near the top of the Park was a reservoir or “fine +piece of water” belonging to the Chelsea Waterworks, +and the path round it was included in the fashionable +promenade by those who paraded in the Queen’s Walk +after dinner. Lower down, where there is still a depression, +was a little pond, originally part of the Tyburn +stream. The “green stagnant pool” was abused by a +writer in 1731, who regretted that trees had just been +planted near it, which probably meant that the offensive +pool would “not soon be removed.” The prophecy was +correct, for it was more than a hundred years later before +this was filled up. The Park wall ran along Piccadilly, +and here and there, as was often the case in the eighteenth +century, there were gaps with iron rails, through which +glimpses of the Park could be obtained. Some persons +had private keys to the gates leading into the Park from +Piccadilly. Daring robberies were by no means uncommon, +and thieves, having done mischief in the streets +near Piccadilly on more than one occasion, were found +to be provided with keys to the gates, through which +they could make their escape into the Park and elude +their pursuers. The Ranger’s Lodge stood on the +northern side, and was rebuilt and done up in 1773. +It was made so attractive that there was great competition, +when it was completed, to be Deputy-ranger and +live there. The two stags which now stand on Albert +Gate, Hyde Park, once adorned the gates of this Ranger’s +Lodge. It is described in 1792 as “a very neat lodge +surrounded by a shrubbery, which renders it enchantingly +rural.” When George III. bought Buckingham +House, then an old red-brick mansion, he +took away the wall which separated the Green Park +from St. James’s, and put a railing instead. In this<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">77</span> +wall was another lodge, and a few trees near it, known +as the Wilderness.</p> + +<p>The aspect of the Mall has greatly changed since +the days when its fashion was at its height. Then the +gardens of St. James’s Palace ran the whole length of the +north side from the Palace towards Whitehall. Stephen +Switzer, writing in 1715, extols the beauty of the garden, +which by his time was cut up and partly built on. “The +Royal Garden in St. James’s Park, part of which is now in +the possession of the Right Honourable Lord Carlton, +and the upper part belonging to Marlborough House, +was of that King’s [Charles II.] planting, which were in +the remembrance of most people the finest Lines of +Dwarfs perhaps in the Universe. Mr. London” ... +presumed “before Monsieur de la Quintinye, the famous +French gardener, ... to challenge all France with the +like, and if France, why not the whole World?”</p> + +<p>Carlton House, a red-brick building, with the stone +portico now in front of the National Gallery, was built +in 1709 on part of this garden. Some twenty years +later, before it was purchased by Frederick, Prince of +Wales, the grounds belonging to the house were laid out +by Kent. Until Carlton House was pulled down in +1827, therefore, the Mall was bounded on the north by +choice gardens. Between the Mall and the walls of +these gardens ran the “Green Walk,” or “Duke +Humphrey’s Walk,” as it was also often called. The +origin of the latter name is to be traced to old St. Paul’s. +The monument to Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, in the +centre aisle of old St. Paul’s Cathedral was where “poore +idlers” and “careless mal-contents” <span class="locked">congregated—</span></p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“Poets of Paules, those of Duke Humfrye’s messe</div> + <div class="verse indent0">That feed on nought but graves and emptinesse.”</div> + </div> +</div> +</div> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">78</span></p> +<p>When Duke Humphrey’s Walk in St. Paul’s was +burnt the name became attached to the walk in St. +James’s Park, where idlers also sauntered. Some writers +attribute the transference of the name to the fact that +the arched walk under the trees was like the cathedral +aisle. Anyhow the name clung to this walk in the Park +from 1666 and during the eighteenth century.</p> + +<p>When Carlton House became the centre of attraction +the Park itself was in a very neglected state. The canal +was turbid, the grass long, and the seats unpainted. +How long it would have remained in this condition is +uncertain had not a new impulse of gardening possessed +the whole nation, and once more it was resolved to alter +the entire Park.</p> + +<p>The rage for landscape gardening was at its height. +Capability Brown had done his work of destruction, and +set the fashion of “copying nature,” and his successors +were following on his lines, but going much further even +than Brown. The sight of a straight canal had become +intolerable. The Serpentine was designed when the idea +that it might be possible to make the banks of artificial +sheets of water in anything but a perfectly straight line +was just dawning, but the canal in St. James’s Park was +transformed when half the stiff ponds and canals in the +kingdom had been twisted and turned into lakes or +meres. Brown had had a hand in the alterations at the +time Rosamund’s Pond was removed, but it was Eyton +who planned and executed the work fifty years later. It +was begun in 1827, and a contemporary writer praises +the result as “the best obliteration of avenues” that +has been effected. Although he owns it involved “a +tremendous destruction of fine elms,” he is lost in +admiration of the “astounding ingenuity” which “converted<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">79</span> +a Dutch canal into a fine flowing river, with +incurvated banks, terminated at one end by a planted +island and at the other by a peninsula.” A permanent +bridge was first made across the water about this time. +Previously a temporary one had been made when the +Allied Sovereigns visited London in 1814—a kind of +Chinese design by Nash, surmounted by a pagoda of +seven storeys. It was this flimsy edifice which made +Canova say the thing that struck him most in England +was that Waterloo Bridge was the work of a private +company, while this bridge was put up by the Government. +It was on the canal in St. James’s Park that skates +of a modern type first appeared in London. Bone ones +were in use much earlier on Moorfields. Both Evelyn and +Pepys saw the new pattern first in the Park in 1662. +Two years later Pepys notes going to the canal with the +Duke of York, “where, though the ice was broken and +dangerous, yet he would go slide upon his scates, which +I did not like, but he slides very well.” Just before the +alterations began, and the complete change of the canal +was taken in hand, the Park was lighted with gas lamps, +an innovation which caused much excitement. At the +same time orders were issued to shut the gates by ten +every evening. A wit on this occasion wrote the following +lines, which were found stuck up on a <span class="locked">tree:—</span></p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“The trees in the Park</div> + <div class="verse indent2">Are illumined with gas,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">But after it’s dark</div> + <div class="verse indent2">No creatures can pass.</div> + </div> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“Ye sensible wights</div> + <div class="verse indent2">Who govern our fates,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Extinguish your lights</div> + <div class="verse indent2">Or open your gates.”</div> + </div> +</div> +</div> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">80</span></p> +<p>The same lamps inspired another poet, who wrote, +just before the destruction of the avenues took <span class="locked">place:—</span></p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“Hail, Royal Park! what various charms are thine;</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Thy patent lamps pale Cynthia’s rays outshine,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Thy limes and elms with grace majestic grow</div> + <div class="verse indent8">All in a row.”</div> + </div> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Yet once more has St. James’s Park been subjected to +renovation. The work, which is a memorial to our late +beloved Queen Victoria, is not yet completed, so its +description must be imperfect. The design aims at +drawing together the several quarters of the Park +towards Buckingham Palace and a central group of +statuary. The Mall is now the scene of ceaseless traffic, +and the sauntering pedestrian is a thing of the past. A +wide road runs at right angles across the Green Park, +and so once again more closely associates the Upper with +the Lower St. James’s Park. Probably the greatest praise +of the alterations would be to say that Le Nôtre would +have approved them. They seem to complete the +design in a fitting manner, but they banish once and for +all time, the semi-rural character which for so many +centuries clung to the Park. The design includes a +series of formal parterres which are filled with bedding-out +plants raised in Hyde Park. In the summer of +1906 they were planted with scarlet geraniums with an +edging of grasses and foliage and a few golden privets, +and on hot July days there were many people ready to +pronounce the arrangement as extremely bad taste. It +seemed a reversion to the days when a startling mass of +colour was the only effect aimed at. As they appeared +all through the mild October days, when a soft foggy +light enveloped the world, and the trees looked dark and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">81</span> +dreary, with their leaves, devoid of autumn tints, still +struggling to hold on, the vivid colouring of the beds +gave a very different impression. The charm of the warm +red tone against the cold blue mists must have given a +sensation of pleasure to any one sensitive to such contrasts.</p> + +<figure id="i_p81" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 34em;"> + <img src="images/i_p081.jpg" width="529" height="484" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p081_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + <span class="smcap">A Corner of the Queen Victoria Memorial Gardens, +in front of Buckingham Palace</span> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>The Park in spring has nothing of the stiff, early +Victorian gardening left. Under the trees crocuses raise +their dainty heads, as cheerily as from out of Alpine +snows, and the slopes of grass spangled with a “host of +golden daffodils” are a delight to all beholders.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">82</span></p> + +<p>The palmy days of St. James’s Park may have passed +away—no longer is the fate of nations and the happiness +of lives decided under its ancient elms—but those days +have left their mark. Every path, every tree, every +green-sward, could tell its story. The Park is now +more beautiful than it ever was, even though fashion has +deserted it. The last changes are but one more link in +the long historic chain. It brings the Park of the Stuarts, +the Mall of the Queen Anne’s age of letters, down to our +own great Queen and the days of Expansion and Empire. +A stroll under its shady trees and by its sparkling water +must be replete with suggestions to the moralist, with +thoughts to the poet, and with an inexpressible charm to +the ordinary appreciative Londoner.</p> +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">83</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IV"><span id="toclink_83"></span><span class="gesperrt">CHAPTER IV</span><br> + +<span class="subhead">REGENT’S PARK</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>When Philomel begins to sing</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>The grass grows green and flowers spring;</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Methinks it is a pleasant thing</i></div> + <div class="verse indent2"><i>To walk on Primrose Hill.</i></div> + </div> + <div class="attrib">—<span class="smcap">Roxburgh Ballads</span>, <i>c.</i> 1620.</div> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="idc idcR"><img src="images/i_idc_r.png" width="180" height="182" alt="R"> +<span class="firstword">Regent’s Park</span> has had but a +transitory day of fashion, and history +has not crowded it with associations +like the other Royal Parks. +It is the largest and one of the most +beautiful, yet there is something +cold and less attractive about it. +In spring, with its wealth of thorn +trees, it has a delightfully rural appearance, and it possesses +many charms on close acquaintance. Its history +as a Royal Park is as ancient as that of Hyde Park +or St. James’s, but it remained a distant country sporting +estate, and only assumed the form of a Park, in +the modern sense of the word, less than a hundred +years ago.</p> + +<p>In the dim distance of Domesday it formed part of +the manor of Tybourne. Later on the manor became +Marylebone or Mary le Bourne, the Church of St. Mary +by the Burn, the brook in question being the Tyburn. +The manor in Domesday is described as part of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">84</span> +lands belonging to the Abbey of Barking in Essex. In +the thirteenth century it was held by Robert de Vere, +and passed by descent through his daughter to the +Earls of Arundel. Later on the manor was divided, +and a fourth share came to Henry V. as heir to the +Earls of Derby. The greater part of the manor was +bought by Thomas Hobson, and his son, who was Lord +Mayor in 1544, exchanged it with Henry VIII. for some +church lands elsewhere. So it became part of the royal +hunting-ground, and the same enactment concerning +the preservation of game applied to Marylebone Park, +situated within the manor, as to Hyde Park. Queen +Elizabeth leased part of the manor to a certain Edward +Forset, and James I. sold him all the manor except the +part known as Marylebone Park, now Regent’s Park. +It was again sold by the grandson of Edward Forset +to John Holles, Duke of Newcastle, and passed to his +daughter, who married Edward Harley, Earl of Oxford, +and through their daughter, who married the second +Earl of Portland, to the Bentinck family. The Park +has always remained Crown property, although it has +frequently been let by the reigning sovereign. Charles I. +granted it to Sir G. Strode and J. Wandesford as a +payment of a debt of £2318 for arms and ammunition. +It was sold by Cromwell with all the other +royal lands, but after the Restoration it went back +to its former holders till the debt was discharged, +and after that to various other tenants. It was on +the expiration of a lease to the Duke of Portland in +1811 that the laying out of the Park in its present +form commenced.</p> + +<p>During the early period incidents connected with +it are meagre. It is for the most part only in royal<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">85</span> +accounts that references to Marylebone Park are found, +and they are merely a bare statement of facts. But +that hunting-parties, with all the show and splendour +attending them, took place frequently, is certain. Among +the Loseley MSS. occur, in 1554, instructions to Sir +Thomas Cawarden, as “Master of the Tents and +Toiles,” to superintend the making of “certaine banquiting +houses of Bowes [= boughs] and other devices of +pleasure.” One of these was made in “Marybone +Parke,” and a minute description is given. It was +40 feet long, and “wrought by tymber, brick, and +lyme, with their raunges and other necessary utensyles +therto insident, and to the like accustomed.” Also +three “standinges” were made at the same time, “all +of tymber garnished with boughes and flowers, every +[one] of them conteynenge in length 10 foote and in +bredth 8 foote, which houses and standings were so +edified, repaired, garnished, decked, and fynyshed against +the Marshall Saint Andrewes comynge thethere by speciale +and straight comandement, as well of the late King +as his counsell to Sir Tho<sup>s.</sup> Cawarden, Knt. M<sup>r.</sup> of +the said Office of Revels; and Lawrence Bradshaw, +Surveior of the King’s works, exhibited for the same +w<sup>t.</sup> earnest charge done, wrought and attended between +the 27th of June and the 2 of August in the said year” +[4th of Edward VI.]. Employed on the above works +for 22 days at all hours, a space to eat and drink +excepted, “Carpenters, bricklayers, 1d. the hour; +labourers, ½d. p. hour; plasterers, 11d. a day; painters, +7d. and 6d. a day.” “Charges for cutting boughs in +the wood at Hyde Park for trimming the banquetting +house, gathering rushes, flags, and ivy; painters, taylors +for sewing roof, etc., basket makers working upon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">86</span> +windows, total cost, £169, 7s. 8d.” Only about half of +this total was due to the work in Marylebone, as a similar +pavilion, and three other “standings,” were made in +Hyde Park at the same time.</p> + +<p>Hall, the chronicler of Henry VIII.’s time, inveighs +against the fashion of making these sumptuous banqueting +houses. They were not only a regal amusement, +but the citizens built in their suburban gardens “many +faire Summer houses ... some of them like Mid-summer +Pageants, with Towers, Turrets, and Chimney +tops, not so much for use or profit, as for shew and +pleasure, and bewraying the vanity of men’s mindes, +much unlike to the disposition of the ancient Citizens, +who delighted in building of Hospitals and Almes-houses +for the poore.” There stood in Marylebone +parish a banqueting house where the Lord Mayor and +aldermen dined when they inspected the conduits of the +Tybourne. On one occasion they hunted a hare before +dinner, and after, “they went to hunt the fox. There +was a great cry for a mile, and at length the hounds +killed him at the end of St. Giles.” During this run +the hunt must have skirted the royal preserves of +Marylebone. In Elizabeth’s time a hunting-party on +3rd February 1600 is recorded, in which the “Ambassador +from the Emperor of Russia and the other +Muscovites rode through the City of London to +Marylebone Park, and there hunted at their pleasure, +and shortly after returned homeward.”</p> + +<p>Marylebone was a retired spot for duels, and many +took place there down to the time when duelling ceased. +The quarrel which led to one in Elizabeth’s reign is +most typical of that age. Sir Charles Blount, afterwards +Earl of Devonshire, handsome and dashing,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">87</span> +distinguished himself in the lists, and won the approbation +of Queen Elizabeth. She presented him with a +chessman in gold, which he fastened on his arm with +a crimson ribbon. This aroused the jealousy of Essex, +who said with scorn, “Now I perceive that every fool +must have a favour.” Whereupon Blount challenged +him. They met in Marylebone Park, and Essex was +disarmed and wounded in the thigh.</p> + +<p>In Mary’s time the Park witnessed a warlike scene +in connection with one of the organised attempts to +dethrone the Queen. The indictment of Sir Nicholas +Throgmorton for high treason, because he, with Sir +Thomas Wyatt and others, “conspired to depose and +destroy the Queen,” states that “the said Sir Nicholas +plotted to take and hold the Tower, levy war in +Kent, Devonshire, etc., and, with Sir Henry Isley and +others, on 26 January 1554, rose with 2000 men, +marched from Kent to Southwark, and by Brentford and +Marylebone Park to London, the Queen being then at +Westminster, but were overthrown by her army.” The +incidents which centre round this Park are few. Even +in the accounts of all the royal lands it does not often +occur. In 1607 one item in the Domestic State +Papers, a list of nine parks, from each of which four +bucks were to be taken, includes Hyde Park, but +Marylebone is not mentioned, and in orders to the +keepers it does not often occur.</p> + +<p>During the Commonwealth it comes more into +notice, from the sad fact that it was then sold and disparked, +and the trees cut down. When Cromwell sold +it to “John Spencer of London, gent.,” the proceeds +were settled on Col. Thomas Harrison’s regiment of +dragoons for their pay. The existing Ranger, John<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">88</span> +Carey, was turned out, and Sir John Ipsley put in his +place. The price given for the Park was £13,215, 6s. 8d., +which included £130 for deer and £1774 for timber, +exclusive of 2976 trees which were marked for the +Royal Navy. Cromwell probably knew the Park and +its advantages well, as some years before, when he +was a boy, his uncle had had permission to hunt in +any of the royal forests. The warrant is dated 15th +June 1604, “to the lieutenants, wardens, and keepers +of the forests, chases, and parks, to permit Sir Oliver +Cromwell, Knt., Gentleman of the Privy Chamber, to +hunt where he shall think fit.” The work of hewing +the timber began at once. On October 19, 1649, the +Navy Commissioner was instructed to “repair the +crane at Whitehall for boating timber, which is to go +from Marylebone Park to the yards to build frigates.” +Again, Sir Henry Mildmay was ordered to “confer +with Mr. Carter, Surveyor of Works, for the timber +in Marylebone Park to be brought through Scotland +Yard, to be boated there for use of the navy.” Cromwell +converted the Park to other uses, as in June the +same year orders were given to put to grass in Marylebone +Park all the artillery horses “bought by Captain +Tomlins for Ireland till Monday week.” That a number +were turned out there for a time is clear from the further +warrant, dated July 12, to “permit William Yarvell, +Carriage Master, to put all the horses provided for +Ireland, which cannot be accommodated in Marylebone +Park, into Hyde Park to graze.” No doubt they found +excellent pasture, in spite of the game. Still, the deer +must have been fairly numerous, considering the price +paid for those left when the Park was sold. One +hundred of the “best deer” were first ordered to be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">89</span> +removed from there to St. James’s Park, “Colonel Pride +to see to the business.”</p> + +<p>At the Restoration the former tenants were reinstated +until the debt was discharged, and John Carey was compensated +for his loss of the rangership; but the Park +was never re-stocked with deer. It is supposed that the +Queens, Mary and Elizabeth, sometimes resided at the +Manor House belonging to the Manor, which stood at +the south side of what is now Marylebone Road, and +was built by Henry VIII. A drawing of the house in +1700 exists, and it is not the same as Oxford House, +with which it has sometimes been confused, belonging to +Lord Oxford, which contained the celebrated Harleian +collection of MSS. Henry VIII.’s Manor House was +pulled down in 1790. It is not until after that date that +anything further has to be recorded of the Park; until then +it remained let out as farms. In 1793 Mr. White, architect +to the Duke of Portland, the tenant of the Park from +the Crown, approached Mr. Fordyce, the Surveyor-General, +with his ideas and plans for the improvement +of the whole of the area. During the previous fifty +years the streets and squares between Oxford Street and +Marylebone had been growing up. Foley House, a large +building, stood on the site of the present Langham +Hotel; and in the lease by which the land was held +from the Duke of Portland, it was covenanted that no +buildings should obstruct the view of Marylebone Park +from this house. When, in 1772, the Brothers Adam +designed Portland Place, they made it the entire width +of Foley House, so that the agreement was fulfilled to +the letter. In those days the street ended where No. 8 +Portland Place now stands; then came the railings which +enclosed Marylebone Fields, with its buttercup meadows<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">90</span> +and country lanes and hedgerows. White’s idea commended +itself to Fordyce, and he approached the Treasury +on the subject. The total area, according to the survey +in 1794, was 543 ac. 17 p. This was disposed chiefly +between three farms of about 288, 133, and 117 acres +respectively. From the first all the plans embraced +extensive buildings, as well as a proportion of park. +Inspired by Fordyce, the Treasury offered a prize, not +exceeding £1000, for the best design, and several were +submitted. Fordyce aimed at something between the +most extreme votaries of the landscape school and the +older, debased, formal styles—a compromise which Loudon +was at that time trying to bring into vogue. A “union +of the ancient and modern styles of planting,” he called it, +which led by stages to the Italian parterres and brilliant +bedding out of the early Victorian gardens. Fordyce +did not live to see any plan put into execution. At his +death the Surveyor-General of Land Revenues and the +Commissioners of Woods and Forests were amalgamated, +and Leverton and Chawner, architects to the former, and +Nash, architect to the latter, submitted designs—Nash’s +being eventually accepted. The other design cut up the +whole ground into ornamental villas with pleasure +grounds, with a sort of village green or central square, +with a church in the middle, and a site for a market and +barracks. White’s views were more like Nash’s in some +respects, as he had artificial water and a drive round the +Park. The lease held by the Duke of Portland fell in, +in 1811, and soon after the work of carrying out Nash’s +design was begun by James Morgan. The Regent’s +Park Canal was included in the same plan, and begun in +1812 and finished in 1820. Its length from Paddington +to Limehouse is 8¾ miles, and the total fall 84 feet.</p> + +<figure id="i_p90c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 55em;"> + <img src="images/i_p090c.jpg" width="870" height="552" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p090c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + AUTUMN IN REGENT’S PARK + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">91</span></p> + +<p>Although the planting and levelling began in 1812, +the buildings rose up slowly. Of the villas in the Park +only two were built in 1820, the rent demanded for the +ground being extremely high. But two or three years +later the whole thing was more or less as it is now, so far +as the general outline and buildings are concerned. The +cost by May 1826 was £1,533,582, and the estimated +probable revenue £36,330. The Prince Regent took +the greatest interest in the proceedings, and Nash’s design +included a site for a palace for him, though even contemporary +writers condemned the suggestion, as the +situation was damp—“the soil was clay, ... and the view +bad.” It was only natural that the Park should henceforth +become the Regent’s, and not Marylebone Park, +and the “new street” to connect it with Carlton House +be called Regent Street.</p> + +<p>It is difficult to judge Regent’s Park with an unprejudiced +eye. The exaggerated praise it called forth +when just completed is only equalled by the unmeasured +censure of the next generation. Of the houses which surround +it the following are two descriptions. The first, in +1855, calls them “highly-embellished terraces of houses, +in which the Doric and Ionic, the Corinthian, and even +the Tuscan orders have been employed with ornate effect, +aided by architectural sculpture.” Fifty years later the +same houses are summed up with very different epithets: +“Most of the ugly terraces which surround it exhibit +all the worst follies of the Grecian architectural mania +which disgraced the beginning of this century”! It +may not be a style which commends itself to modern +taste, but one thing is certain, that having embarked on +classical architecture it was best to stick to it and complete +the whole. It is as much a bit of history, and as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">92</span> +typical of the age, as Elizabethan or Tudor architecture +is of theirs, and as such it is best to treat Regent’s Park as +an interesting example of early nineteenth-century taste.</p> + +<p>This ground was country when building was begun, +and when one thinks of the streets and crescents that +grow up when the country touches the town, and the incongruous +ugliness of most of them, there is much to +be said for the substantial uniformity of Regent’s Park. +What can be argued from the surroundings of the other +parks? Would Regent’s Park have been improved by +the erection of rows of houses of the Queen Anne’s +Mansion type? One cannot help wondering what Stowe +would have thought of such a production, when he +instances “a remarkable punishment of Pride in high +buildings,” how a man who built himself a tower in +Lime Street, to overlook his neighbours, was very soon +“tormented with gouts in his joynts, of his hands and +legs”—that he could go no “further than he was led, +much lesse was he able to climbe” his tower! What +retribution would he have thought sufficiently severe for +the perpetrators of Park Row Buildings, New York, with +their thirty-two storeys?</p> + +<p>Anyhow, Regent’s Park was welcomed by the generation +who watched it grow. A writer in 1823 says: +“When first we saw that Marylebone Fields were enclosed, +and that the hedgerow walks which twined through +them were gradually being obliterated and the whole +district artificially laid out, ... we underwent a painful +feeling or two.... A few years, however, have elapsed, +and we are not only reconciled to the change alluded to, +but rejoice in it. A noble Park is rapidly rising up, and +a vast space, close to the metropolis, not only preserved +from the encroachment of mean buildings, but laid out<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">93</span> +with groves, lakes, and villas, ... while through the +place there is a winding road, which commands at +every turn some fresh feature of an extensive country +prospect.” This enthusiast winds up by saying, “We +do not envy the apathy of the Englishman who can +walk through these splendid piles without feeling his +heart swell with national pride.” We may smile at such +high-sounding language, but, after all, it was an innocent +form for national pride to take.</p> + +<p>The special feature which the plan of the Park embraced, +was the villas, standing in their own pleasure +grounds. These were all built in the same Grecian style—most +of them designed by Decimus Burton, who was +also the architect of Cornwall Terrace, the only one not +by Nash. St. Dunstan’s Villa, now belonging to Lord +Aldenham, and containing his precious library, was his +work. It was built by the Marquis of Hertford, and +the name is taken from the two giant wooden figures of +Gog and Magog, which formerly stood by St. Dunstan’s +Church in Fleet Street. They had been placed there in +1671, and struck the hours on a large clock (the work +of Thomas Harrys), one of the curiosities of the City. +It was with reference to them that Cowper’s lines on a +feeble, uninspired poet were <span class="locked">written:—</span></p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“When Labour and when Dullness, club in hand,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Like the two figures of St. Dunstan’s stand,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Beating alternately, in measured time,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">The clock-work tintinabulum of rhyme,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Exact and regular the sounds will be,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">But such mere quarter strokes are not for me.”</div> + </div> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Lord Hertford used to be taken to see them as a +child, and had a child’s longing to possess the monsters. +Unlike most childish dreams, he was able, when the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">94</span> +church was rebuilt in 1832, to realise it and to purchase +the figures, and remove them to strike the hours in +his new villa. St. John’s Lodge is another of these +detached villas, with a fascinating garden, built by +Burton, for Sir Francis Henry Goldsmid; and also in +the inner circle there is South Villa, with an observatory, +erected in 1837 by Mr. George Bishop, from which +various stars and asteroids were discovered by Dawes +and Hinde.</p> + +<p>The most interesting of the houses in the park is +St. Katharine’s Lodge, not from any special beauty of +its own, but from the sad association of its history. +On the east of the road which encircles the Park is +St. Katharine’s Hospital, built by A. Poynter, a pupil +of Nash, in 1827, when the “act of barbarism” of removing +the Hospital from the East End was committed. +The home of the Hospital, with its church and almshouses, +was close to the Tower, and after a peaceful +existence of nearly seven hundred years it was completely +swept away to make room for more docks. +There is nothing to redeem the crude look of uselessness +that the new buildings in Regent’s Park present. +They seem out of place, and as if stranded there by +accident. Even thirty years after their removal an official +report on the revenues of the hospital shows some signs of +repentance. The writers sum up the increased income, +then about £11,000 a year, and wonder if in this far-away +spot it is being put to the best uses; and the +report even goes so far as to suggest its restoration to +the populous East End, where the recipients of the +charity would spend their lives in the cure of souls, or as +nurses and mission-women among the poor. Since then, +an improvement has set in as it has become the Central<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">95</span> +House for Nurses for the Poor, known as the Jubilee +Nurses, as the funds to provide them were raised by the +women of England as a Jubilee Gift to Queen Victoria.</p> + +<p>The Hospital of St. Katharine was founded by Queen +Matilda, “wife to King Stephen, by licence of the Prior +and Convent of the Holy Trinity in London, on whose +ground she founded it. Elianor the Queene, wife to +King Edward the First, a second Foundresse, appointed +to be there, one Master, three Brethren Chaplaines and +three Sisters, ten poore women, and six poore clerkes. +She gave to them the Manor of Clarton in Wiltshire +and Upchurch in Kent, etc. Queene Philip, wife to +King Edward the Third, 1351, founded a Chauntry +there, and gave to that Hospital tenne pound land by +yeere; it was of late time [1598] called a free Chappell, a +Colledge and an Hospital for poore sisters. The Quire +which (of late yeares) was not much inferior to that of +Pauls, was dissolved by Doctor Wilson, a late Master +there.” Such is Stowe’s account of the foundation.</p> + +<p>Even in those days the district was becoming crowded, +“pestered with small Tenements,” chiefly owing to the +influx from Calais, Hammes, and Guisnes when those +places were lost in Mary’s reign. Many, “wanting +Habitation,” were allowed a “Place belonging to St. +Katharine’s.” The curious name, “Hangman’s Gains,” +in that locality was said to be derived from a corruption +of two of the places the refugees came from.</p> + +<p>In Henry VIII.’s time a Guild or Fraternity was +“founded in the Church of this Hospital of St. Katharine +to the Honour of St. Barbara.” Katharine of Aragon +and Henry VIII. and Cardinal Wolsey belonged to it, +and many other “honourable persons.” The object was +to secure a home for any “Brother or Sister who fell into<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">96</span> +Decay of worldly Goods as by Sekenes or Hurt by the +Warrys, or upon Land or See, or by any other means.” +Those belonging to the Fraternity who had paid the full +sum due, namely 10s. 4d., in “money, plate, or any other +honest stufe,” were entitled to fourteen pence a week, +house-room and bedding, “and a woman to wash his +clothes and to dresse his mete; and so to continue Yere +by Yere and Weke by Weke durynge his Lyfe,” like a +modern benefit society. The fine old church contained +many monuments, some of which were transferred to the +new church when the removal took place. Among them +the effigy of John Holland, Duke of Exeter, and one of +his wives, dating from 1447, reposes under a fine canopy. +The stalls and pulpit of the sixteenth century were also +brought to the new building. Thus shorn of all its +associations and all its beauty, the foundation remains, +like a flower ruthlessly transplanted too late to take root +and regain its former charm.</p> + +<p>The Master’s house makes a most delightful residence, +and has always been let. Mr. Marley, the present tenant, +who has filled the house with works of art, has made a +very charming garden also, more like an Italian than an +English villa garden, as the view reproduced in this +volume testifies.</p> + +<p>Three Societies occupy pieces of ground within the +Park. The most ancient and least well known is the +Toxophilite. Archery has for many hundred years been +practised by the citizens of London. The ground chosen +for shooting was chiefly near Islington, Hoxton, and +Shoreditch. To encourage the use of bows and arrows +Henry VIII. ordered Sir Christopher Morris, Master of +Ordnance, to form the “Fraternitye or Guylde of Saint +George” about 1537, and these archers used to shoot in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">97</span> +Spital Fields. About the time of the Spanish Armada +the Honourable Artillery Company was formed, which +possessed a company of archers, and for over two hundred +years archery was kept alive by this corps, and, following +them, by the Finsbury Archers. Just at the time +when the corps was abolished Sir Ashton Lever formed +the Toxophilite Society in 1781, and the archers of the +Honourable Artillery Company became merged in the +new Society, which then shot on Blackheath. George IV. +belonged to it, and it henceforth became the Royal Toxophilite +Society, and settled on ground given to it in +Regent’s Park in 1834, where it remains, as the lineal +descendant of the old historic Guild of Archers. It +possesses several interesting relics; a shield given by +Queen Mary, and silver cups of the Georgian period, +besides a valuable collection of bows and arrows. The +hall where the members meet, built when the Society +moved to Regent’s Park, and added to since, has +beneath it some curious cellars with underground +passages branching off from them, which it has been +suggested may have been part of the outhouses belonging +to the Royal Manor House, which stood not far off, on +ground now outside the Park. The large iron hooks +that were until recently in the cellar walls, seemed suggestive +of venison from the Park for the royal table. The +ground of the Society is suitably laid out, with a fine sunk +lawn for the archery practice. By an arrangement with +the Toxophilite Society, “the Skating Club” have their +own pavilion, and the lawn is flooded during the winter +for their use. There is so much talk about the change +of the climate of England, and of the so-called old-fashioned +winters, that the record kept by this Skating +Club since its foundation in 1830 of the number of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">98</span> +skating days in each winter is instructive. Taking the +periods of ten years during the first decade, 1830–40, there +was an average of 10.2 skating days per winter. In +1833–34 there were none, in 1837–38 thirty-seven days. +Between 1850–60 the average was only 8.5, while the last +ten years of the century it was 16.8. It is difficult to +see how any argument could be deduced from such +figures in favour of the excess of cold in the good old +days! When the freezing of the Thames is quoted to +prove the case, people forget that the Thames has completely +changed. The narrow piers of old London +Bridge no longer get stopped with ice-floes, and the +current is much more rapid now that the whole length is +properly embanked. In the days when coaches plied from +Westminster to the Temple Stairs as in 1684, or when +people dwelt on the Thames in tents for weeks in 1740, +all the low land was flooded and the stream wider and +more sluggish. The believers in the hard winters generally +maintain the springs were warmer than now, May +Day more like what poets pictured, even allowing the +eleven days later for our equivalent. But in 1614 there +was snow a foot deep in April, and those who went in +search of flowers on May Day only got snowflakes. In +1698, on May 8th, there was a deep fall of snow all over +England, and many other instances might be quoted. So +it seems, though people may grumble now, their ancestors +were no better off.</p> + +<p>In the centre of the ground is the Royal Botanical +Society of London, founded in 1839. At one time the +Society was greatly in fashion, and the membership was +eagerly sought after. No doubt such will be the case +again, although for some reason the immense advance in +gardening during the last ten years has not met with the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">99</span> +response looked for from this Society, and hence a certain +decrease instead of increase in popularity—a phase which +can but be transitory. The botanical portions of the +grounds illustrative of the natural orders were arranged +by James de Carle Sowerby, son of the author of the +well-known “English Botany,” assisted by Dr. Frederick +Farre and others, and the ornamental part of the garden, +with the lake, by Marnoch. The designs were severely +criticised by Loudon in the first instance, who prophesied +failure to the garden, but was well satisfied +when the modified plans were announced. Some of +the earliest flower shows in the modern sense were +held there. And this Society was the pioneer in exhibitions +of spring flowers. The first was held in 1862, +and was quite a novel departure, although summer and +autumn floral shows had been instituted for more than +thirty years. These exhibitions and fêtes became very +fashionable, and people flocked to them, and numbers +joined the Society. It is always difficult to combine +two objects, and this is the problem the Botanical Society +now has to face. It is almost impossible to keep up +the Botanical side and at the same time make a bid for +popular public support by turning the grounds partly +into a Tea Garden. Now that gardening is more the +fashion than it has ever been, it is sad to see this ancient +Society taking a back place instead of leading. It is +actual horticulture that now engrosses people, the practical +cultivation of new and rare plants, the raising and hybridising +of florists’ varieties. The time for merely well-kept +lawns and artificial water and a few masses of bright +flowers, which was all the public asked for in the Sixties, +has gone by. A thirst for new flowers, for strange combinations +of colours, for revivals of long-forgotten plants<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">100</span> +and curious shrubs, has now taken possession of the +large circle of people who profess to be gardeners. Apart +from the question whether the present fashion has taken +the best direction for the advancement of botany and +horticulture, it is evident no society can prosper unless +it directs its attention to suit the popular fancy. No +doubt this worthy Society will realise this, and emerge +triumphant from its present embarrassments.</p> + +<p>The third and best known of the societies is the +Zoological one. What London child has not spent +moments of supreme joy mingled with awe on the back +of the forbearing elephant? And there are few grown +persons who do not share with them the delight of an +hour’s stroll through the “Zoo.” More than ever, +with the improved aviaries and delightful seal ponds, is +the Zoo attractive. It was the first of the three Societies +to settle in the Park, having been there since 1826. +Some of the original buildings were designed by Decimus +Burton, who, next to Nash, is the architect most associated +with the Park. The Society was the idea of +Sir Thomas Raffles, who became the first President in +1825. In three years there were over 12,000 members, +and the gardens were thronged by 30,000 visitors. A pass +signed by a member was necessary for the admission of +every party of people, besides the payment of a shilling +each. An abuse of this soon crept in, and people waited +at the gates to attach themselves to the parties entering, +and well-dressed young ladies begged the kindness of +members who were seen approaching the gates. Now +only Sunday admittance is dependent on the members. +A Guide to Regent’s Park in 1829 gives engravings of +many of the animals, and shows the summer quarters +of the monkeys—most quaint arrangements, like a pigeon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">101</span> +cot on a pole, to which the monkey with chain and ring +was attached, to race up and down at will.</p> + +<figure id="i_p101" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 33em;"> + <img src="images/i_p101.jpg" width="527" height="398" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p101_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + <span class="smcap">Stone Vase in Regent’s Park</span> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>The only alterations of importance after the completion +of the Park were the making of the flower +garden, and the filling up of the artificial water to a +uniform depth of 4 feet, after a terrible accident had +occurred in 1867, when the ice broke and forty skaters +lost their lives. The flower-beds are now one of the +most attractive features in the Park, and were originally +designed by Nesfield in 1863. The centre walk continues +the line of the “Broad Walk” avenue at its +southern end. In the middle is a fine stone vase supported +by griffins, and other stone ornaments in keeping +with the formal style.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">102</span></p> + +<p>The frame-ground in Regent’s Park has to be a +spacious one, to produce all that is required in the +way of spring and summer plants. The fogs are the +greatest enemies of the London gardener, and more +especially on the heavier soil of Regent’s Park. Not +even the most hardy of the bedding-out plants will +survive the winter, unless in frames. Even wall-flowers +and forget-me-nots will perish with a single bad night +of fog, unless under glass. Although, on the other +hand, it is surprising how some species apparently unsuited +to withstand the climate will survive. Among +the rock plants growing in a private rock-garden within +the Park <i class="flora" lang="la">Azalia procumbens</i>, that precarious Alpine, is +perfectly at home. Clumps of <i class="flora" lang="la">Cypripedium spectabele</i> come +up and flower year after year, and <i class="flora" lang="la">Arnebia echioides</i>, the +prophet flower, by no means easy to grow, seems quite +established. But to return to the frame-ground, from +whence all the bedding plants emanate. Violas are a +special feature in the Park, and one which is much to +be commended, as their season of beauty is so protracted. +They are all struck in frames, one row of fifty-three +lights being devoted to them, in which 23,750 cuttings +are put annually. The green-houses are used for storing +plants not only for the decoration of the Park +but for some fourteen other places outside. The +Tower, the Law Courts, Mint, Audit Office, the +Mercantile Marine in Poplar, are all supplied from +Regent’s Park. The Tate Gallery and Hertford +House have to be catered for also. Whether the +visitors to the Wallace Collection even notice the +plants it is impossible to say; they might miss their +absence. But the gardeners have to give these few +pots considerable care, as they will only stand for a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">103</span> +very short time inside the building, and after three +weeks’ visit return to hospital.</p> + +<figure id="i_p102c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 52em;"> + <img src="images/i_p102c.jpg" width="826" height="553" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p102c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + SPRING IN REGENT’S PARK + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Of late years a considerable alteration has been +made in the arrangement of the beds in the flower-garden +of the Park, chiefly with a view to reducing +the bedding and yet obtaining a better effect. Long +herbaceous borders have been substituted for one of the +rows of formal beds, requiring a constant succession +of plants. This has necessitated the removal of some +of the flowers shown in the view of this garden taken +in the spring. The loss of these is compensated by +the new arrangement of beds, separated from the Park +by a hedge and flowering shrubs.</p> + +<p>Very few of the old trees remain in Regent’s Park; +what became of them between the time when only a +portion were marked for the navy by Cromwell, and +the present day, there is no record as yet forthcoming. +Two elms near the flower-garden are, however, remarkably +fine specimens, as the branches feather on to the +ground all round. A <i class="flora" lang="la">Paulownia tomentosa</i> is well worthy +of notice. It must have been one of the earliest to +be planted in this country, and is a large spreading tree. +It stands on what is known as the Mound, near Chester +Gate. Nineteen years ago it flowered, and in the unusually +warm autumn of 1906 it was covered with buds +of blossom, all ready to expand, when, alas! the long-delayed +frost arrived in October, just too soon for +them to come to perfection. Not far from it is a +large tree of <i class="flora" lang="la">Cotoneaster frigida</i>, which has masses of +red berries every year.</p> + +<p>The railings of Regent’s Park have always been of +timber, but it is now threatened to alter this survival +of the days when it first changed from Marylebone Farm.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">104</span> +The present timber fence has stood for forty years, so +even from an economical point of view iron, which requires +painting, could not be recommended. It is to be +hoped the old traditional style of fence of this delightful +Park may be continued.</p> + +<p>To the north of Regent’s Park, and only divided +from it by a road, lies Primrose Hill. This curious +conical hill, 216 feet high, so well known as an open +space enjoyed by the public, formerly belonged to +Eton College, but became Crown property about the +middle of last century, and is now under the Office of +Works, who keep it in order, and have done all the +planting which has of late years improved this otherwise +bare eminence. Some of the guide-books to London +refer to the lines of Mother Shipton’s prophecy that +Primrose Hill “must one day be the centre of London.” +The passage this is supposed to be based on, is that +which used to be said to foretell railways, and now +people see in it a foreshadowing of motor cars. At +one time also the marriage reference which is in the +same poem was applied to Queen Victoria. The lines +are <span class="locked">these—</span></p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“Carriages without horses shall go,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">And accidents fill the world with woe:</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Primrose Hill in London shall be,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">And in its centre a Bishop’s see.</div> + </div> + <div class="tb">* * * * *</div> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0">The British Olive next shall twine,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">In marriage with the German Vine.”</div> + </div> +</div> +</div> + +<p>The early editions of the prophecy contain none of +these lines except the two last, which are quoted in the +1687 edition, and are there interpreted to refer to the +marriage of Elizabeth, daughter of James I., and the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">105</span> +Elector Palatine. The Primrose Hill lines first made +their appearance in 1877! So, although now quite +surrounded by houses, and well within the County of +London, that this would be so in time to come, was not +foretold three hundred years ago.</p> + +<p>The delightfully rural name dates from the time of +Queen Elizabeth, and is said to be derived from the +number of primroses which grew there. The earlier +name was Barrow Hill, from supposed ancient burials. +After the mysterious murder of Sir Edmondsbury Godfrey +in October 1678, his body was found in a ditch +at the foot of the hill. At one time the superstitious +thought his ghost haunted the place, and a contemporary +medal has this <span class="locked">inscription—</span></p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“Godfrey walks up hill after he was dead;</div> + <div class="verse indent0">[St.] Denis walks down hill carrying his head.”</div> + </div> +</div> +</div> + +<p>The fresh air and pleasant view from the top of the +hill, and the cheery sounds of games, have long ago +dispelled all these gloomy memories.</p> +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">106</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_V"><span id="toclink_106"></span><span class="gesperrt">CHAPTER V</span><br> + +<span class="subhead">GREENWICH PARK</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Towered cities please us then,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>And the busy hum of men,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Where throngs of knights and barons bold</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>In weeds of peace high triumphs hold,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>With store of ladies, whose bright eyes</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Rain influence, and judge the prize</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Of wit, or arms, while both contend</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>To win her grace, whom all commend.</i></div> + </div> + <div class="attrib">—<span class="smcap">Milton.</span></div> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="idc idcI"><img src="images/i_idc_i.png" width="178" height="182" alt="I"> +<span class="firstword">It</span> would not occur to most people +to reckon Greenwich among the +London Parks. But it is well +within the bounds of the County +of London, and now so easy of +access that it should have no +difficulty in substantiating its +claim to be one of the most beautiful +among them. Both for natural features and +historic interest it is one of the most fascinating.</p> + +<p>Its Spanish chestnuts are among the distinguishing +characteristics, and although smoke is slowly telling on +them, numbers of these sturdy timber trees are still +in their prime, and it would be hard to find a more +splendid collection in any part of the country. One +of the giants is 20 feet in girth at 3 feet from the +ground, and contains 200 feet of timber.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">107</span></p> + +<p>Those who are the ready champions of the rights of +the people to the common lands, and who justly inveigh +against all encroachments, must feel bound to admit that, +in the case of Greenwich Park, what they would call +pilfering in other instances is thoroughly justified. The +land which forms the Park was part of Blackheath until +Henry VI., in the fifteenth year of his reign, gave his +uncle Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, licence to enclose +200 acres of the wood and heath “to make a park in +Greenwich.”</p> + +<p>The modern history of Greenwich Park may be said +to begin in Duke Humphrey’s time, but it was a favourite +resort long before that. Situated on the high ground +above the marshy banks of the river, and near the Watling +Street between London and Dover, Greenwich was +found suitable for country residence in Roman times. +On one of the hills in the Park, with a commanding view +over the river, the remains of a Roman villa have been +excavated. Over 300 coins were found, dating from +35 <span class="allsmcap">B.C.</span> to <span class="allsmcap">A.D.</span> 423. Bronzes, pottery, a tesselated +pavement, and the remains of painted plaster were +discovered, showing that it must have been a villa of +“taste and elegance,” and there were indications that +the final destruction of this charming abode was by fire. +A peep into the past might reveal the last of its +Roman occupants flying before the barbarian Jute.</p> + +<p>Doubtless in its prime there would be a garden near +the villa—perhaps a faint imitation of those Roman +gardens like Pliny’s. There, “in front of the portico,” +was “a sort of terrace, embellished with various figures +and bounded with a box-hedge,” which descended “by an +easy slope, adorned with the representation of divers +animals in box,” to a soft lawn. There were shady trees<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">108</span> +and a splashing fountain, and sunny walks to form “a +very pleasing contrast,” where the air was “perfumed +with roses.” The slopes of Greenwich may have presented +such a scene in the days when Roman galleys +rowed up the Thames.</p> + +<p>In another part of the Park, Roman graves have been +found, and other burying-places of a later date suggest a +very different picture from that of Roman times. These +tumuli are very numerous, and although over twenty +remain, a much greater number existed, and have been +rifled from time to time, or excavated, as in 1784, when +some fifty were opened, and braids of human hair, fragments +of woollen cloth, and beads were found. These +graves suggest the occupation of these heights by the +Danes, who were encamped there for some three years +about 1011. Wild and lawless must have been the +aspect then, and the incident that stands out prominently +is the martyrdom of St. Alphege, the Archbishop, slain +here by the Danes in 1012.</p> + +<p>There was probably some royal residence at Greenwich +from the time of Edward I., but it was not +until it came to Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, that +the Palace much used in Tudor times was built. This +building faced the Thames, and went by the name of +“Placentia” or “Plaisance,” and round it there was a +garden. The royal licence, which gave the Duke leave +to enclose a portion of the heath, provided that he might +also build “Towers of stone and lime.” The tower +stood on the hill now crowned by the Observatory, and +was pulled down when Charles II. had the Observatory +erected from designs by Wren in 1675. The plan included +a well 100 feet deep, at the bottom of which the +astronomer Flamsteed could lie and observe the heavens.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">109</span> +All through the earlier history of the Park this tower +must have been a conspicuous object. During Tudor +times Greenwich was much lived in by the Sovereign, and +many a gay pageant enlivened the Park. Jousts and tournaments, +Christmas games and May Day frolics, were of +yearly recurrence in the early days of Henry VIII. +The Court moved there regularly to “bring in the +May.” A picturesque account is given of one of these +merry-makings by the Venetian Ambassador and his +Secretary. The Ambassador was charmed with the King. +“Not only,” he writes, is he “very expert in arms and +of great valour, and most excellent in personal endowment, +but is likewise so gifted and adorned with mental +accomplishments of every sort.” He joined in the May +Day proceedings, which must indeed have presented a +brilliant spectacle, with the oaks and hawthorn, and all +the wild beauty of Greenwich Park, as a background. +Katharine of Aragon, “most excellently attired and very +richly, and with her twenty-five damsels mounted on +white palfreys, with housings of the same fashion most +beautifully embroidered in gold,” and followed by +“a number of footmen,” rode out into the wood, +where “they found the King with his guard, all clad in +a livery of green with bowers [boughs] in their hands, +and about 100 noblemen on horseback, all gorgeously +arrayed.” “In this wood were certain bowers filled purposely +with singing birds, which carrolled most sweetly.” +Music played, and a banquet under the trees followed, +then the procession with the King and Queen together +returned to the Palace. The crowds flocking round them +the Venetian estimated “to exceed ... 25,000 persons.”</p> + +<p>Queen Mary was born at Greenwich, and there she +was betrothed to the Dauphin of France. She resided<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">110</span> +here much during her short and troublous reign; and +perhaps her fondness for this Palace came from the +association of her early youth, when she was the centre +of attraction. Greenwich cannot always have been +pleasant for the Princess Mary, for here came Anne +Boleyn. From Greenwich she was escorted in state to +London by the Lord Mayor, who was summoned by the +King to fetch her, and from Greenwich she was taken up +the river, her last melancholy journey to the Tower. The +oak under which Henry VIII. is said to have danced +with her is still standing. It is a huge, old, hollow stem, +though quite dead, kept upright by the ivy. The trunk +has a hole 6 feet in diameter, and it is known as Queen +Elizabeth’s Oak, as tradition also says she took refreshments +inside it. It was fitted with a door, and those who +transgressed the rules of the Park were confined in this +original prison. It was at Greenwich that Queen Elizabeth +was born; and to Greenwich Henry brought his +fourth bride, when poor Anne Boleyn’s short-lived favour +was at an end, and Jane Seymour dead. The less beautiful +Anne of Cleves, who so signally failed to please the King, +was escorted in state from Calais by thirty gentlemen, +with their servants, “in cotes of black velvet with cheines +of gold about their neckes.” On January 3, 1540, the +King rode up from the Palace to meet her on Blackheath +with noblemen, knights, and gentlemen, and citizens, all +in velvet with gold chains. The King rode a horse with +rich trappings of gold damask studded with pearls, a +coat of purple velvet slashed with gold, and a bonnet +decorated with “unvalued gems.” Anne came out of +her tent on the Heath to meet him, clad in cloth of gold, +and mounted on a horse with trappings embroidered with +her arms, a lion sable. She rode right through the Park<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">111</span> +from the Black Heath to the northern gate and round +through the town to the Palace, the guns firing from the +Tower in her honour.</p> + +<p>It was at Greenwich that the boy king, Edward VI., +died, and Mary and Elizabeth were constantly there. +Their state barges bearing them to and from the Palace +must have been no uncommon sight on the Thames. It +was on landing on one of these occasions that the famous +episode of Sir Walter Raleigh laying his cloak in the +mud for the Queen to tread on, happened. One of the +many brilliant scenes in the Park took place after Elizabeth’s +accession, when the citizens of London, overjoyed, +wished to give her a very special greeting. It was on +July 2, 1559, that “the City of London entertained the +Queen at Greenwich with a muster, each Company +sending out a certain number of men-at-arms” (1400 +in all), “to her great delight.... On the 1st of July +they marched out of London in coats of velvet and +chaines of gold, with guns, moris pikes, halberds, and +flags; and so over London Bridge unto the Duke of +Suffolk’s Park in Southwark; where they all mustered +before the Lord Mayor, and lay abroad in St. George’s +Fields all that night. The next morning they removed +towards Greenwich to the Court there; and thence to +Greenwich Park. Here they tarried till eight of the +clock; then they marched down into the Lawn, and +mustered in arms: all the gunners in shirts of mail. At +five of the clock at night the Queen came into the +gallery over the Park Gate, with the Ambassadors, Lords, +and Ladies, to a great number. The Lord Marquis, +Lord Admiral, Lord Dudley, and divers other Lords +and Knights, rode to and fro to view them, and to set +the two battles in array to skirmish before the Queen:<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">112</span> +then came the trumpets to blow on each part, the drums +beating, and the flutes playing. There were given three +onsets in every battle; the guns discharged on one +another, the moris pikes encountered together with great +alarm; each ran to their weapons again, and then they +fell together as fast as they could, in imitation of close +fight. All this while the Queen, with the rest of the +Nobles about her, beheld the skirmishings.... After +all this, Mr. Chamberlain, and divers of the Commons of +the City and the Wiflers, came before her Grace, who +thanked them heartily, and all the City: whereupon +immediately was given the greatest shout as ever was +heard, with hurling up of caps. And the Queen shewed +herself very merry. After this was a running at tilt. +And lastly, all departed home to London.”</p> + +<p>This fête took place on a Sunday, and the time +between the muster and the fight was probably mostly +spent in refreshment. The account for the supplies of +the “Mete and Drynke” for 1st day of July and Sunday +night supper is preserved. They were far from being +starved, as, among other items, 9 geese, 14 capons, 8 +chickens, 3 quarters and 2 necks of mutton, 4 breasts of +veal, beside a sirloin of beef, venison pasties, 8 marrow-bones, +fresh sturgeon, 3 gallons of cream, and other +delicacies were provided for them. Floral decorations +in their honour were not forgotten, and appear in the +accounts—“gely flowers and marygolds for iii garlands, +7d.; strawynge herbes, 1/4; bowes for the chemneys, 1d.; +flowers for the potts in the wyndowys, 6d.”</p> + +<p>There is no end to the gay scenes that the Park +and even some of the most ancient trees have witnessed. +“Goodly banquetting houses” were built of “fir poles +decked with birch branches and all manner of flowers<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">113</span> +both of the field and garden, as roses, gilly flowers, +lavender, marigold, and all manner of strewing herbs and +rushes” (10th July 1572); and many a brilliant pageant +took place under the greenwood tree as well as in the +Palace, where Shakespeare acted before the Queen.</p> + +<p>Although the days of sumptuous pageantry ended +with Elizabeth, much was done for Greenwich by the +Stuarts. James I. replaced the wooden fence of the +Park by a brick wall, 12 feet high and 2 miles round. +At various times sections have been altered or replaced +by iron rails, but the greater part of the wall remains as +completed between 1619–25.</p> + +<p>The “Queen’s House,” which is the only portion of +the older building which still exists, was begun under +James I., and completed by Inigo Jones for Queen +Henrietta Maria. It was called the House of Delight +or the Queen’s House, and still bears the latter title. +Although the sale does not appear to have been actually +completed, Greenwich is among the Royal Parks the +Parliament intended to sell. The deer at the time must +have been numerous and in good condition, for during +the Commonwealth the fear of their being stolen was +such, that soldiers were posted in the tower for their +preservation. Not any great change, however, took +place; the Park remained as it was until completely +remodelled by Charles II.</p> + +<p>Le Nôtre’s name is associated with the changes at +Greenwich, as it is with those in St. James’s Park, and the +style was undoubtedly his; but it is not at all likely that +he ever actually came to England, but sent some representative +who helped to carry out his ideas. The alterations +were under the superintendence of Sir William +Boreman, who became Keeper of the Park about that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">114</span> +date. In March 1644 John Evelyn made a note in his +Diary about planting some trees at his house of Sayes +Court, Deptford, and adds, “being the same year that +the elms were planted by His Majesty in Greenwich +Park.” The avenues and all the fine sweet chestnuts +were planted about this time, besides coppices and +orchards. John Evelyn must have approved of these +avenues, as in his “Sylva” he praises the chestnut for +“Avenues to our Country-houses; they are a magnificent +and royal Ornament.” Their nuts were not appreciated +in England. “We give that food to our swine,” Evelyn +continues, “which is amongst the delicacies of Princes +in other Countries; ... doubtless we might propagate +their use amongst our common people ... being a Food +so cheap and so lasting.”</p> + +<p>A series of terraces sloping down from the tower +formed part of the design, and their outline can still be +traced between the Observatory and the Queen’s House, +which faces the hill at the foot. Each terrace was 40 +yards wide, and on either side Scotch firs were planted +24 feet apart. These trees were brought by General +Monk from Scotland in 1664, and until forty years ago +many were standing, and the line of the avenue was still +traceable; some of the trunks measured 4 feet in diameter +at the ground. Smoke tells so much more on all the +coniferous tribes than on the deciduous trees, that they +have all now perished. The last dead stump had to be +felled some ten years ago. The old Palace was much +gone to decay when Charles II. began the alterations, +so he pulled it down with the exception of the Queen’s +House, the only part said to be in good repair, and +commenced a vast building designed by Wren, one +wing of which only was completed in his reign.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">115</span></p> + +<p>Pepys, who always did the right and fashionable +thing, of course often went to Greenwich, and mentions +many pleasant days there. On one occasion (June 16, +1662) he went “in the afternoon with all the children +by water to Greenwich, where I showed them the King’s +yacht, the house, and the parke, all very pleasant; and +to the taverne, and had the musique of the house, and so +merrily home again.” This excursion having been so +successful, he soon after escorted Lady Carteret with +great pride, “she being very fine, and her page carrying +up her train, she staying a little at my house, and then +walked through the garden, and took water, and went +first on board the King’s pleasure-boat, which pleased her +much. Then to Greenwiche Parke; and with much ado +she was able to walk up to the top of the hill, and so +down again, and took boat....” His wife and servants, +unencumbered by the fine clothes and the page, had +evidently not minded the steep ascent as did this “fine” +lady, who, however, was “much pleased with the ramble +in every particular of it.”</p> + +<p>Greenwich Fair was always a great institution, and as +a rule it was a riotous and disorderly gathering. Two +took place each year, in May and October, and lasted +several days. During the seventeenth and following +centuries the fairs were notorious, and finally had to be +suppressed in the middle of the nineteenth.</p> + +<p>When William III. altered the building of Charles II. +from a palace to a hospital for seamen in 1694 the Park +was kept separate, and the Ranger lived in the “Queen’s +House.” It was not until Princess Sophia held the office +in 1816 that the residence was changed to the house +which still goes by the name of the Ranger’s Lodge, and +was lived in by the last Ranger, Lord Wolseley. This<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">116</span> +Ranger’s House had formerly belonged to Lord Chesterfield, +and many of the famous letters to his godson are +dated from there. No special feature in the garden, +which was thrown open to the public with the Park in +1898, can be attributed to him. He was not, as Lord +Carnarvon’s memoir of him points out, fond of the +country; though he “took some interest in growing +fruit in his garden at Blackheath, he had no love for his +garden like Bacon” or Sir William Temple. There are +some fine trees in the grounds, especially a copper beech, +with a spread 57 feet in diameter, and a good tulip tree. +Queen Caroline, as Princess of Wales, was Ranger in +1806, and lived in Montague House, since pulled down, +and the “Queen’s House” was appropriated to the Royal +Naval School. At the same time the “Ranger’s” was +inhabited by the Duchess of Brunswick, her mother, and +it was on her death that it was purchased by the Crown, +and Princess Sophia, daughter of the Duke of Gloucester, +came to live there as Ranger. The last royal personage +to stay in the house was the Duke of Connaught, when +studying at Woolwich; and now it serves as refreshment +rooms for the numberless trippers who enjoy Greenwich +Park in the summer.</p> + +<p>The most recent changes in the Park have all been +improvements, and now it is beautifully kept. There is +much that is still wild, and the flora and fauna of the +Park would astonish many. Among the wild flowers +butcher’s broom, spindle, and the parasites on the heather +and the broom, dodder and broom-rape are to be found, +and hart’s-tongue, wall rue, polypody and male and lady +ferns. The list of birds that breed there still is a long +<span class="locked">one:—</span></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">117</span></p> + +<ul> +<li>Barndoor owl.</li> +<li>Spotted fly-catcher.</li> +<li>Missel and the song thrush.</li> +<li>Blackbird.</li> +<li>Hedge sparrow.</li> +<li>Robin.</li> +<li>Sedge and reed warblers.</li> +<li>Black-cap.</li> +<li>White-throat.</li> +<li>The great, blue, and cole tits.</li> +<li>Pied wagtail.</li> +<li>Common bunting.</li> +<li>House sparrow.</li> +<li>Greenfinch.</li> +<li>Linnet.</li> +<li>Bullfinch.</li> +<li>Starling.</li> +<li>Carrion crow.</li> +<li>Jackdaw.</li> +<li>Green woodpecker.</li> +<li>Tree creeper.</li> +<li>Wren.</li> +<li>Nuthatch.</li> +<li>Swallow.</li> +<li>Ring, turtle, and stock doves.</li> +<li>Pigeon.</li> +<li>Moorhen.</li> +<li>Lesser grebe. +</li> +</ul> + +<p>The part of the Park fenced off and known as the +Wilderness is quiet and undisturbed; there under the +big trees, among long grass and bracken, the young fawns +are reared every year. They are most confiding and +tame—those in the Park too much so; for they are only +too ready to eat what is given them, and tragic deaths +from a surfeit of orange-peel or such-like delights are +the result.</p> + +<p>The lake is prettily planted, and red marliac varieties +of water-lilies now float on the surface in the summer. +The dell, planted with a large collection of flowering +shrubs, is well arranged, and many choice varieties, +<i class="flora" lang="la">Solanum crispum</i>, gum cistus, magnolias, <i class="flora" lang="la">Buddlea intermedia</i>, +<i class="flora" lang="la">Indigofera gerardiana floribunda</i>, and such-like are +doing well. The frame-ground is most unostentatious, +and it is satisfactory to see how much can be produced. +The climate allows of the spring bedding plants and +hardy chrysanthemums for autumn being raised out of +doors; and the small amount of glass shelters the standard +heliotropes, <i class="flora" lang="la">Streptosolens Jamesoni</i>, and the like for bedding. +Lilies do well in the open; <i class="flora" lang="la">superbum</i>, tiger, <i class="flora" lang="la">thunbergium</i>,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">118</span> +<i class="flora" lang="la">Henryii</i>, &c., and pots of <i class="flora" lang="la">longifolium</i> flower +strongly after doing duty for three years. There is now +a fair-sized garden, where these plants are displayed, +near the Wilderness, adjoining Blackheath; while the +rest of the Park, with the deer wandering under the +chestnuts, is still left delightfully wild. Under the +shady trees on a summer’s day it would still be possible +to dream of Romans and Danes, of pageants and tournaments, +and to people the scene with the heroes and +heroines of yore.</p> +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">119</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VI"><span id="toclink_119"></span><span class="gesperrt">CHAPTER VI</span><br> + +<span class="subhead">MUNICIPAL PARKS</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Let cities, kirks, and everie noble towne</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Be purified, and decked up and downe.</i></div> + </div> + <div class="attrib">—<span class="smcap">Alexander Hume</span> (1557–1609).</div> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="idc idcL"><img src="images/i_idc_l.png" width="176" height="180" alt="L"> +<span class="firstword">London</span> is almost completely surrounded +by a chain of parks. +Luckily, as the town grew, the +necessity for fresh air began to be +realised, and before it was too late, +in the thickly-populated districts +north, south, east, and west, any +available open space has been converted +into a public garden, or into a more ambitious +park. Would that this laudable spirit had moved people +sooner, and then there might have been a Finsbury Park +nearer Finsbury, and the circle of green patches on the +map might have been more evenly dotted about some of +the intervening parishes. Many of the open spaces are +heaths, or commons, or Lammas Lands, which have +various rights attached to them, and, in consequence, +have been saved from the encroachments which have +threatened them from time to time, and have thus been +preserved, in spite of the growth of the surrounding +districts. Of late years the rights have in many instances +been acquired by public bodies, so as to keep for ever +these priceless boons. It was not until the middle of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">120</span> +last century that the movement in favour of city parks +assumed definite form. They were in contemplation +before 1840, but none were completed until several years +later. Victoria was the first, opened in 1845; Battersea, +although begun then, was not ready for planting till +1857; Kennington, Finsbury, and Southwark had followed +before 1870, and, since then, every few years new +open spaces have been added. They have been purchased +by public bodies for the most part, but a large share of +the honour of acquiring these grounds is due to private +munificence and individual enterprise.</p> + +<p>Irrespective of the commons which link them together, +the principal parks are the following. Beginning on the +extreme north there is Golder’s Hill, then to the east of +Hampstead lies Waterlow, the next going eastwards is +Finsbury, then Clissold and Springfield, and down +towards the east Victoria. In South London, between +Woolwich and Greenwich, lies Maryon Park; then, west +of Greenwich, Deptford and Southwark; then a densely +built-over district before Kennington, Vauxhall, and +Battersea are reached; while away to the south lie +Camberwell, Ruskin, Brockwell, and Dulwich; right +away into the country, on the south-east, Avery Hill and +Eltham; and back again west, across the river again, in +Hammersmith, is Ravenscourt. These parks of varying +sizes, and smaller recreation grounds between, make up +the actual parks, although some of the commons, with +playgrounds, artificial water, and band-stands, can hardly +be distinguished from the true park.</p> + +<p>The oldest of the parks now under the London County +Council—Battersea, Kennington, and Victoria—were for +many years under the Office of Works, and on the same +footing as the Royal Parks. Government, and no municipal<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">121</span> +authority, has the credit of their formation. Then +came several formed by or transferred to the Metropolitan +Board of Works. To all these, already over +2050 acres, the London County Council automatically +succeeded. After the Bill reorganising the disposal of +the funds of the London Parochial Charities in 1883, a +part of their money was allotted to provide open spaces, +and they helped to purchase many of the parks—Clissold, +Vauxhall, Ravenscourt, Brockwell, and so on. The +acquisition of parks has, in many cases, been due to +private individuals, who helped to raise the necessary +funds, and themselves contributed, and were generally +assisted by the local vestries, and, later on, Borough +Councils. Miss Octavia Hill, by writing and trying to +influence public opinion, made many efforts to secure +open spaces. At her instance the Kyrle Society was +founded for the general improvement of homes, of disused +burial-grounds, and open spaces; and from this +developed the Metropolitan Gardens Association, of +which the Earl of Meath is Chairman. Immense credit +is due to this Society, both for acquiring new sites and +beautifying existing ones, and being instrumental in +having countless places opened to the public. And to +private individuals who have given whole parks, or +largely contributed to others, too much gratitude cannot +be expressed. Since they came into office, the London +County Council has had added some 2300 acres of +open spaces and parks to those under its care, which have +been purchased, or given in whole or in part, by private +individuals or other public bodies. Some of the last +acquisitions of the London County Council lie quite +outside the county boundary, so are beyond the limit +set to this volume. Marble Hill is away at Twickenham,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">122</span> +but half the purchase-money of £72,000 was paid +by the London County Council, and the entire cost of +alteration and maintenance is found by it. The place +was bought chiefly to preserve the wooded aspect of the +view from Richmond Hill. The Forest of Hainault is +also outside the bounds, near Epping. The 805 acres +there are partly fields, and in part the remains of the old +Forest of “Hyneholt,” as it was often written, a section +of the Royal Forest which covered a large tract of Essex.</p> + +<p>The most natural division, when dealing with these +open spaces, is the river, and it is a division which strikes +a fairly even balance. Including Royal Parks, which +contain some 1266 acres, the northern side can claim the +larger area, as, irrespective of squares and churchyards +and gardens, there are about 3141 acres of green. The +south side has only Greenwich Park of 185 acres of +Royal Park, and, exclusive of that, there are quite 2169 +acres, as against 1875 of the municipal areas on the +northern side, when the Crown land is deducted. Besides +these, there are 226 acres maintained by the Borough +Councils; so in round numbers London has about +5721 acres of open space. These figures are only rough +estimates, and do not include all the smaller recreation +grounds or gardens of less than an acre.</p> + +<p>These parks scattered around London are enjoyed by +hundreds of thousands annually, and yet, to a comparative +handful of people who live near Hyde Park, they +are as much unexplored country as the regions of Timbuctoo. +The bicycling craze of ten years ago suddenly +brought Battersea Park into fashion; but the miles of +crowded streets, with their rushing trams and top-heavy +omnibuses, put a considerable bar between the “West +End” and those more distant favoured spots. There is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">123</span> +much variety in these parks, both north and south, and +the chief difference lies in their origin. When a suburban +manor-house, standing in its own grounds, with +well-timbered park and a garden of some design, has +been acquired, a much finer effect is produced than when +fields or market-gardens have been bought up and made +into a park.</p> + +<p>Finsbury Park, for instance, was merely fields, while +Waterlow has always been part of a private demesne. +It is the same on the south of the river. Brockwell is an +old park and garden. Battersea was entirely made. Each +park has features which give it an individual character, +while there is and must be a certain repetition in describing +every one separately.</p> + +<p>Many details are of necessity more or less the same in +each. The London County Council is responsible for +the greater number, and in every case they have thought +certain things essential. For instance, the band-stand; no +park, large or small, is considered complete without one. +It is hardly necessary to mention each individually, though +some are of the ordinary patterns, others more “rustic” +in construction (as in Brockwell Park), with branching +oak supports and thatched or tiled roofs. Every park, +except Waterlow, which is too hilly, furnishes ample area +for games. Cricket pitches by the dozen, and space for +numerous goal-posts is provided for, in each and all of +the larger parks. Gymnasiums, too, are included in the +requirements of a fully-equipped park. Swings for the +smaller children, bars, ropes, and higher swings for older +boys and girls, are supplied. Bathing pools of greater or +less dimensions are often added, the one in Victoria +Park being especially large and crowded. Then the larger +parks have green-houses, and a succession of plants are on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">124</span> +view all the year round. The chrysanthemum time is one +specially looked forward to in the East End districts. +Iron railings and paths, of course, are the inevitable +beginnings in the creation of a park, and more or less +ambitious gates. It is only in the larger ones, such as +Finsbury, Victoria, Dulwich, and Battersea, that carriages +are anticipated. Though there is a drive through Brockwell, +and the steep hill in Waterlow might be climbed, +and the avenue in Ravenscourt is wide enough, it is +evidently only foot passengers who are expected, as a +rule. Fancy ducks and geese attract the small children +on all the ponds, and some parks have enclosures for +deer or other animals. Sand gardens, or “seasides” for +children to dig in, are also frequently included.</p> + +<p>The larger parks are self-contained—that is to +say, the bedding out and all the plants necessary +for the flower-gardens are reared on the premises. +There is a frame-ground with green-houses attached, +where the stock is kept and propagated. Of course, +much depends on the soil and locality. In some parks +the things will stand the winter much better than in +others, where fog and smoke and damp work deadly +havoc.</p> + +<p>A great deal is now done with simple, hardy flowers, +which give just as good an effect as more elaborate and +expensive bedding. Roses in the show beds will do well +for two or even three years; with a few annuals between +they make charming effects. In Finsbury Park, the dark +red roses with Canterbury bells, and fuchsias with a +ground of alyssum, were effective and simple. In some +parks the spring plants will thrive all through the winter. +Beds of white Arabis with pink tulips between; forget-me-nots +with white tulips; mixed collections of auriculas,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">125</span> +that dear old-fashioned “bear’s ears,” put in about the +end of October, make a little show all the winter, and +produce a mass of colour in spring. There is still room +for improvement in the direction of the planting, but of +late years the war waged against the monopoly of calceolarias, +geraniums, and blue lobelias has, fortunately, had +its effect in a marked degree on the London Parks, +municipal as well as royal.</p> + +<p>There is apt to be a great uniformity in the selection +of plants, more especially among the trees and bushes. +The future should always be borne in mind in planting, +and alas! that is not always the case. Anything that will +grow quickly is often put in, whereas a little patience +and a much finer effect would be the result in the end. +Privet grows faster than holly, but can the two results be +compared? There is a very fine old elm avenue in +Ravenscourt; trees which the planter never saw in perfection, +but which many generations have since enjoyed. +But will the avenue of poplars in Finsbury Park have +such a future? After thirty-five years’ growth they are +considerable trees, but how long will they last? The +plane does grow remarkably well, there is no denying, +but is it necessary for that reason to exclude almost every +other tree? Ash trees thrive surprisingly. Some of the +oaks take kindly to London, yet how few are planted. +Richard Jefferies, that most delightful of writers on nature, +bemoans the lack of English trees in the suburban gardens +of London, and the same may be said of the parks to +some extent. “Go round the entire circumference of +Greater London,” he writes, “and find the list ceaselessly +repeated. There are acacias, sumachs, cedar +deodaras, araucarias, laurels, planes, beds of rhododendrons, +and so on.” “If, again, search were made in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">126</span> +these enclosures for English trees and English shrubs, it +would be found that none have been introduced.”</p> + +<p>It would be even more charming in a London Park +than a suburban garden to plant some of the delights of +our English country, such as thorns, crab apples, elder, +and wild roses, with horse-chestnuts, and hazel. What can +be more beautiful than birches at all times of the year? +That they grow readily, their well-washed white stems +in Hyde Park testify. Birds, too, love the native trees, +and some of the songsters, which till lately were plentiful +in many parks, might return to build if thus encouraged.</p> + +<p>There is much monotony in the laying out of all +these parks. The undulating green turf with a wavy +line of bushes seems the only recognised form. A narrow +strip of herbaceous plants is put between the smutty +bushes and well-mown turf, and the official park flower-border +is produced. Curving lines of uncertain direction, +tortuous paths that carefully avoid the straight line, are +all part of the generally received idea of a correct outline. +It is always more easy to criticise than to suggest, but +surely more variety would be achieved if parks were +planted really like wild gardens—the groups of plants +more as they might occur in a natural glade or woodland. +Then let the herbaceous border be a thing apart—a garden, +straight and formal, or curved and round, but not always +in bays and promontories jutting into seas of undulating +green. A straight line occasionally is a great rest to the +eye, but it should begin and end at a definite and tangible +point. The small Park in Camberwell has a little avenue +of limes running straight across, with a centre where seats +can be put and paths diverge at right angles. It is quite +small, and yet the Park would be exactly like every other +piece of ground, with no particular design, without this.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">127</span> +It gives a point and centre to the meandering paths, and +comes as a distinct relief. In Southwark Park an avenue +is growing up into fairly large trees. It seems stuck on to +the Park—it is not straight, but it is not a definite curve, +and it ends somehow by turning towards the entrance at +one end and twisting in the direction of the pond at the +other. So it remains a shady walk, but not an avenue +with any pretension to forming part of a design.</p> + +<p>It is not for the formal only this appeal is made, it is +for less formality and more real wildness, also a protest +against the monotony of the green banks, and bunches of +bushes, and meaningless curves, too often the only form +of design. The aim in every case must be to have as +much variety as possible without incongruity, and to make +the utmost use of the ground; to give the most pleasure +at the least expense.</p> + +<p>One of the great difficulties must always be the +numbers of people who enjoy these parks. The grass +suffers to such an extent that portions must be periodically +enclosed to recover. Then the children have to +be kept at a certain distance from the flowers, or the +temptation to gather one over-masters the fear of the +park-keeper.</p> + +<p>A green walk between trees would be a pleasing +change from gravel and asphalt in a less-frequented +part of some park, but it would doubtless have to +be closed in sections, or there would soon be no turf +left; but such an experiment might well be tried. +The attempts in Brockwell, Golder’s Hill, and Ravenscourt +at “old English gardens” are most successful, +and a welcome change in the monotony, and one has +only to look at the crowded seats to see how much +they are appreciated.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">128</span></p> + +<p>The effort to make use of the parks to supplement +nature-teaching in the schools is also an advance +in the right direction, and one that could be followed +up with advantage.</p> + +<p>The trials of the climate of London, and the hurtful +fogs, must not be forgotten when criticising. They +are no new thing, and gardeners for two hundred +years have had to contend with the smoke, and wage +war against its effects. But the evil has, of course, +become greatly intensified during the last fifty years. +Fairchild, the author of the “City Gardener,” in 1722, +regrets that plants will not prosper because of the +“Sea Coal.” Mirabeau, writing from London in 1784, +deplores the fogs in England, and especially “those +of London. The prodigious quantity of coal that is +consumed, adds to their consistence, prolongs their +duration, and eminently contributes to render these +vapours more black, and more suffocating—you feel +this when rising in the morning. To breathe the +fresh morning air is a sort of happiness you cannot +enjoy in this immense Capital.” Yet in spite of this +gloomy picture there are trees now within the London +area, which were getting black when Mirabeau wrote. +Smuts are by no means solely responsible for trees +dying. There are many other contributory causes. +The drainage and want of water is often a serious +danger, and bad pruning in the case of the younger +trees is another. When branches begin to die, it is a +very safe and salutary precaution to lop them off, as +has lately been done to such a noticeable extent in +Kensington Gardens. But the cutting and pruning of +trees by those employed by various municipal bodies is +often lamentably performed. The branches are not cut<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">129</span> +off clean, or to a joint, where fresh twigs will soon +sprout and fill in and make good the gaps. Often +they are cut leaving a piece of wood, which decays +back to the young growth, and rots into the sound +part of the tree.</p> + +<p>Some of the worst enemies of the gardener are the +electric power-stations. The trees suffer terribly from +the smoke they emit. Even healthy young shrubs and +bushes, such as laurels, are destroyed by it. In a very +short time they become completely dried up, brown, and +shrivelled. In a memorandum on the Electric Power +and Supply Bill of 1906, the First Commissioner of +Works pointed out these disastrous effects. He says, +“The case is not entirely one of the emission or consumption +of black or sooty or tarry matters. The +other products of combustion, such as sulphurous and +sulphuric acid, with solid particles of mineral matter +or ash, are very deleterious to vegetation.” It appears +from the report of Dr. Thorpe, of the Government +Laboratory, that the production of sulphuric acid could +be “much diminished, if not entirely prevented, by +pouring lime-water on the coal before it goes into the +furnaces, but from the look of trees in some neighbourhoods +this precaution does not appear to be taken.” +These hindrances are often very disheartening, and the +many and serious difficulties that have to be contended +with, must never be lost sight of in any review of +the parks.</p> + +<p>In every case the park is thoroughly appreciated by +the inhabitants, and no one can overestimate the +health-giving properties of these lungs of the city. It +would be vain repetition to point out the fact in each +case, or to picture the crowds who enjoy them on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">130</span> +Sundays—who walk about, or lounge, or listen to the +bands, or to what appears still more stimulating, to the +impassioned harangue of some would-be reformer or +earnest preacher. The densely-packed audiences, the +gesticulations and heated and declamatory arguments, are +not confined to Hyde Park. Victoria Park gathers just +such assemblies, and every park could make more or +less the same boast. The seats are equally full in each +and all, and the grass as thickly strewn with prostrate +forms. Perambulators are as numerous and children +as conspicuous in the north, south, and eastern parks +as in those of the west.</p> + +<p>In looking round the parks it will be well to take +a glance at the smaller ones, then to consider each of +the larger ones more in detail, in every case missing +out some of the obvious appendages which are +characteristic of all.</p> + +<p>How pathetic some of these little parks are, and what +a part they play in the lives of those who live in the +dingy streets near. Take, for instance, one with a +high-sounding name, Avondale Park. It is little more +than ten minutes’ walk from Shepherd’s Bush Station or +Notting Hill Gate. Yet, on inquiry for the most direct +road, nobody can give a satisfactory answer. One man +will say, “I have lived here for years and never heard of +it”; another, “I don’t think it can be in this district.” +The same would be the result even nearer to it; but ask +for the recreation ground, and any child will tell you. +“Down the first narrow turning and to the right again, +by the pawnbroker at the corner.” It is a melancholy +shop, with the plain necessaries of life and tiny babies’ +boots for sale on the trays outside the door—what a +volume of wretchedness and poverty those poor things<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">131</span> +bespeak. A few yards further, and the iron railings of +the “Park” come in view. The happy shrill voices of +children resound, the swings are in full motion, the seats +well filled, and up and down the asphalt walk, old and +young are enjoying themselves. When the band plays +the place is packed. “I’ve calculated as many as nine +hundred at one time,” says the old guardian, who is proud +of the place, “and as for the children, you often can’t see +the ground for them.” Yes, this open space of four and +a quarter acres is really appreciated. It is difficult for +those in easier circumstances to realise what a difference +that little patch of green, those few bright flowers, make +to the neighbourhood, or the social effect of the summer +evenings, when the band and the pleasant trees offer a +counter-attraction to the public-house. For some twelve +years this little Park has been enjoyed. Formed by the +vestry, and kept up by the Royal Borough of Kensington, +it greatly pleases, although it scarce can be called beautiful. +The centre is given over to the children, and the +boys have ample room, and the girls and infants keep +their twenty-four swings in constant motion. A path +twists round the irregular plot, and most of the way is +bordered by those London-loving plants, the iris, and +the usual groups of smutty bushes. Along the front +runs a wide asphalt walk, well furnished with seats, a +band-stand half way, and a fountain at one end. Some +bedding out with gay flowers is the attraction here. A +gardener and a boy keep it in order, while for about £20 +a year a nurseryman supplies all the necessary bedding-out +plants. The old guardian sweeps the scraps of +paper up and sees the children are not too riotous +at the swings. Thus, for no great expense, widespread +pleasure is conferred.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">132</span></p> + +<p>The Embankment Gardens, between Westminster and +Blackfriars, are much frequented. At all seasons of the +year the seats are crowded, and now, with the statues, +bands playing in summer, refreshment buffet, and newspaper +kiosk, they look more like a foreign garden than +the usual solemn squares of London. During the +dinner-hour they are filled with the printers from the +many newspaper offices near, and the band was in the +first instance paid for by the Press.</p> + +<p>They are divided into three sections, and measure +ten acres in all, not including the garden beyond the +Victoria Tower. The peace has been utterly destroyed +by the din of trams, which are for ever passing and re-passing, +and it is much to be feared that the trees next +the river, which were growing so well, will not withstand +the ill-treatment they have received—the cutting of +roots and depriving them of moisture. The Gardens +are entirely on the ground made up when the Embankment +was formed, between 1864 and 1870.</p> + +<p>The Gardens were opened in 1870, but many improvements +have since been made in the design, and various +statues put up to famous men. One is to John Stuart +Mill, and at the Westminster end, one of William +Tyndall, the translator of the New Testament and Pentateuch, +to which translation is due much of the beautiful +language of the Authorised Version of the Bible.</p> + +<p>Of the old gardens and entrances to the great houses +which stretched the whole length of the river bank, from +Westminster and Whitehall to the City, only one trace +remains. It is the Water Gate of York House. The +low level on which it stands, below the terrace end of +Buckingham Street, shows to what point the river rose. +York House was so called as it was the town house of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">133</span> +the Archbishops of York, but none of them ever lived +there except Heath, in Queen Mary’s time, who was the +first to possess it. It was let, as a rule, to the Keepers +of the Great Seal, and Bacon lived there. George Villiers, +Duke of Buckingham, pulled down most of the old +house, and commenced rebuilding. Nothing now remains +but the Water Gate, supposed to be by Inigo Jones, +although the design is also attributed to Nicholas Stone, +who built it. The house and gardens were sold and +divided in 1672. Buckingham Street and the streets +adjoining are built on the site, and all that is left is +the fine old gateway, with most modern-looking gardens +between it and the river, which once flowed up to its +arches.</p> + +<p>Another Embankment recreation ground is the Island +Garden, Poplar, and it is one that is also much appreciated. +It was made on some ground not required for ship-building +or docks on the river front of the Isle of Dogs, and +opened to the public in 1895. The idea of making a +garden of it had for some few years been in contemplation, +and as soon as the necessary funds were found, this +space, somewhat less than three acres, was saved from +being built over, and a wide walk of about 700 feet +made along the river embankment. The view from the +seats, with which it is plentifully supplied, over towards +Greenwich Hospital and Park makes it a really charming +promenade. The quaint name of this part of London is +said to be derived from the fact that the kennels of the +sporting dogs of the royal residents of Greenwich Palace +were kept there, “which usually making a great noise, +the seamen and others thereupon called the place the Isle +of Dogs.” This seems the most plausible of the various +definitions of the name of this peninsula—for it is only<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">134</span> +an island by means of the dock canal, made in 1800. +A quotation from a play of Middleton and Dekker, +in 1611, shows that then, at any rate, it was associated +with actual dogs.</p> + +<p>“<i>Moll Cutpurse</i>: O Sir, he hath been brought +up in the Isle of Dogs, and can both fawn like a +spaniel and bite like a mastiff, as he finds occasion.”</p> + +<p>The ground in those days and until much later +times was a fertile marsh, subject to frequent inundations, +but affording very rich pasture. Breaches in the +embankment occurred at intervals until a solid pile and +brick wall was made in the last century, above which +the “Island Gardens” were laid.</p> + +<p>Further along the north bank of the river there is +another and a larger garden, kept up by the London +County Council, although it is in East Ham and not +within the County of London. This was made on +the site of the North Woolwich Tea Gardens, which +enjoyed a kind of popularity for some fifty years. +Having been started in 1851, they kept up their reputation +for “Baby Shows,” “Beard Shows,” and such-like +attractions, until the ground became too valuable +for building, and too heavily rated for them to exist, +and, but for timely interference, this open space would +have been converted into wharves.</p> + +<p>The story of the Bethnal Green Gardens is very +different. Although it was only in 1891 that the +present arrangements with regard to keeping up the +Gardens were established, the 15½ acres of which they +form part has a long history. As far back as 1667 +the land was purchased by a group of residents, who +collectively subscribed £200, and by a trust-deed dated +1690 conveyed the land to trustees, to be administered<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">135</span> +for the benefit of the poor. It had been purchased +and enclosed, the deed specified, “for the prevention +of any new building thereon.” Of this ground 9 acres +form the present Garden; on part of the remainder +St. John’s Church was built, and in 1872 the Bethnal +Green Museum, an offshoot from South Kensington, +was opened on another section. The most exhaustive +work on Municipal Parks says that when the land +“came into the possession of the London County +Council” it “consisted of orchard, paddock, kitchen +garden, and pleasure grounds, all in a rough and +neglected condition.” Under the levelling hand of +the London County Council it has been made to look +exactly like every other public garden, with “ornamental +wrought-iron enclosing fences, broad walks, +shrubberies,” and so on, at a cost of over £5000, +and was opened in 1895. There is no trace of its +former condition, nothing to point to its antiquity or +any difference in its appearance from the most modern +acquisition. Perhaps after all it is as well, for among +the thousands of that poor and crowded district that +use and enjoy it, there is not one to whom a passing +thought of the old weavers who were settled there +when the land was given, or to whom the legend of +pretty Bessee the Blind Beggar’s daughter of Bethnal +Green would occur. Though the design is prosaic, the +gardens are made cheerful and gay, and if they add +a gleam of brightness to the lives of toil of those living +near them, they must be said to fulfil their purpose.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Victoria Park</span></h3> + +<p>Victoria Park was the first of the modern Parks to +be laid out, and it is the largest. When the advantage<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">136</span> +of an East End Park was admitted, the work of +forming one was carried out by the Commissioners of +Woods and Forests. An Act passed in 1840 enabled +them to sell York House to the Duke of Sutherland +(hence it became Stafford House), for £72,000, and +to purchase about 290 acres of land in the East End +in the parishes of Hackney, Bethnal Green, and Bow. +Part of this was reserved for building improved dwellings, +and 193 acres formed Victoria Park, the laying +out of which began in 1842. Thirty years later, when +some of the land adjoining was about to be built on, +the Metropolitan Board of Works bought some 24 acres +to add to the Park, the whole of which, including +the new part, was under the Office of Works. Other +additions have been made from time to time, chiefly +with a view to opening entrances to the Park, so as +to make it as easy of access as possible from the crowded +districts in the direction of Limehouse and the docks, +and round Mile End Road.</p> + +<p>The ground which the Park covers was chiefly +brick-fields and market-gardens, and Bishop’s Hall +Farm. The latter place is the only part with any +historical association. The farm was in the manor of +Stepney, which was held by the Bishops of London, +and Bishop’s or Bonner’s Hall was the Manor House. +Many of the Bishops of London resided here in early +days. Stowe, in 1598, referring to Bishop Richard de +Gravesend in 1280, writes: “It appeareth by the +Charter [of free] warren granted to this Bishop, that (in +his time) there were two Woods in the Parish of Stebunheth +[Stepney], pertaining to the said Bishop: I have +(since I kept house for my selfe) knowne the one of +them by <i class="flora">Bishops Hall</i>, but now they are both made<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">137</span> +plaine of wood, and not to be discerned from other +grounds.” These woods were on the ground covered +by the Park. Stowe notices in his short accounts of +the Bishops of London that Ralph Stratford, who was +Bishop from 1339 to 1354, “deceased at Stebunhith.” +The name Bonner’s Hall somehow became attached to +the Manor House. The same chronicler also records +that Bishop Ridley gave the manors of Stepney and +Hackney to the King in the fourth year of Edward VI., +who granted them to Lord Wentworth. Bonner, therefore, +would be the last Bishop who could have resided +there. The old Manor House was not destroyed till +1800, when part of the material was taken to build +a farm-house, which was cleared away when the Park +was formed.</p> + +<p>The first laying out of the Park does not seem to +have been altogether satisfactory. A writer in 1851 +criticises it very severely. The roads and paths, he says, +were so badly laid as to require almost reconstruction. +The “banks of the lake must be reduced to something +like shape to resist the wash of the water,” and the remodelling +of the plantations will be “a work of time.” +Just then Mr. Gibson assumed the charge of the Park, +and even this captious critic seems to have been well +satisfied that he had “begun in real earnest” to carry +out the necessary improvements. Modern gardeners +might not applaud all his planting quite so enthusiastically +as his contemporaries. For instance, the rage for +araucarias—monkey puzzles—has somewhat subsided, +though the planting of a number met with great praise +in the Fifties. Most of the Park was planted with +discrimination. In a line with the canal which forms +one boundary, an avenue was put, now a charming<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">138</span> +shady road with well-grown trees. The artificial water +with fancy ducks, in which is a wooded island with +a Chinese pagoda, is a great delight for boating. The +bathing-lake has still greater attraction, and thousands +bathe there daily all through the summer months. +It is said, as many as 25,000 have been counted on a +summer’s morning. Bedding out was at its height +when Victoria Park was laid out, so the flower-garden +included some elaborate scroll designs which were +suited to the style of carpet-bedding then in vogue. +Now, though less stiff, the formal bedding is well done,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">139</span> +and attracts great attention. Those in the East End +have just as keen an appreciation as the frequenters of +Hyde Park, of the display of flowers. The green-house +in winter is much enjoyed, and a succession of bright +flowers is kept there during the dark months of the +year. The children’s sand garden is also a delight.</p> + +<figure id="i_p138" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 29em;"> + <img src="images/i_p138.jpg" width="462" height="465" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p138_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + <span class="smcap">Pagoda on the Island, Victoria Park.</span> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>In spite of its situation in a densely-populated district, +the feathered tribes have not quite deserted the Park. +The moor-hen builds by the lake and the ringdove +nests in the trees. Though the greenfinch and the wren +have vanished, some songsters still gladden the world. +Blackbirds, thrushes, and chaffinches are by no means +uncommon. Some of these latter get caught, and take +part in the popular amusement of singing-matches. +Many men in the district keep chaffinches in cages, and +bring them to the Park on a Sunday morning that they +may practise their notes in chorus with their wild +associates, and so beat the caged bird of some rival. +Sometimes the temptation is too great, and the wild birds +are kidnapped to join the competition.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Finsbury Park</span></h3> + +<p>Finsbury is second in size, and second in date of construction, +of the Parks of North London. It is far from +Finsbury, being really in Hornsey, but as the idea, first +expressed about 1850, was to make a Park for the +borough of Finsbury, the name was retained although +the land acquired some years later was somewhat +remote.</p> + +<p>The movement was first set on foot when building +began to destroy all the open spaces near Finsbury Fields. +Some of these, like Spa Fields, had been popular places +of resort as Tea Gardens, but were being rapidly covered<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">140</span> +with houses, and separating Finsbury altogether from the +country. Many delays, owing to changes of Government, +occurred before the necessary legislation was accomplished. +When the Metropolitan Board of Works came into being, +it took up the scheme, and it was finally under its auspices +that the land was purchased, and the Park, 115 acres in +extent, was opened in 1869.</p> + +<p>On the highest point of the ground there is a +lake, which was in existence before it became a public +park. Near there stood Hornsey Wood House, a Tea +Garden of some reputation in the eighteenth century. +About the year 1800 the old house was pulled down, +and the new proprietor built another tavern, and converted +part of the remains of Hornsey Wood into an artificial +lake for boating and angling. This second house existed +until it was pulled down in 1866, when the Park was in +progress. Hornsey Wood was part of the forest which +bounded London on the north, and the site of the Park +was in the manor of Brownswood, which was held by the +See of London.</p> + +<p>Accounts of various incidents which are connected +with this spot are given in histories of Hornsey. The +most picturesque is that in which the ill-fated little King +Edward V. is the central figure, overshadowed by his +perfidious uncle. “The King on his way to London +[from Ludlow] was on the fourth of May met at Hornsey +Park (now [1756] Highgate) by Edmund Shaw, the +Mayor, accompanied by the Aldermen, Sheriffs and five +hundred Citizens on Horseback, richly accoutered in +purple Gowns; whence they conducted him to the City; +where he was received by the Citizens with a joy inexpressible.... +In this solemn Cavalcade, the Duke of +Gloucester’s Deportment was very remarkable; for riding<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">141</span> +before the King, uncovered, he frequently called to the +Citizens, with an audible voice, to behold their Prince +and Sovereign.” What a scene must the site of Finsbury +Park have presented that May morning. The +Londoners, incensed at Gloucester’s having taken possession +of the young King, no doubt meet him with +distrust and anger, and while the procession moves on +towards the City he allays their suspicions, acting a +part to deceive them.</p> + +<p>The trees in Finsbury are beginning to grow up, and +the Park is losing the new, bare look which made it unattractive +in its early years. Poplars (fast-growing trees) +have been largely used. That is very well for a beginning, +but others of a slower growth, but making finer timber, +are the trees for the future. There is nothing very +special to notice in the general laying out of the grounds, +as beyond the avenue of black poplars and the lake, there +are no striking features. The view from the high ground, +towards Epping, adds to the attractions of this useful +open space but not very interesting Park. One of the +most pleasing corners is the rock garden, not far from +the lake. The plants seem well established and very +much at home. The green-houses, too, are well kept +up, and in the gloomy seasons of the year especially +are much frequented.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Clissold Park</span></h3> + +<p>Clissold, or Stoke Newington Park, is one of the +parks which has the advantage of having been the +grounds of a private house, and enjoys all the benefits +of a well-planted suburban demesne. The old trees at +once give it a certain <i lang="fr">cachet</i> that even County Council +railings, notice-boards, and bird-cages cannot destroy.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">142</span> +It has the additional charm of the New River passing +through the heart of it, and, furthermore, the ground is +undulating.</p> + +<p>One of the approaches to the Park still has a semi-rural +aspect and associations attached to it. This is +Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, with a row of fine elm trees, +under which the Queen may have passed as a girl while +staying in seclusion at the manor-house, then in the +possession of the Dudley family, relations to the Earl of +Leicester. Stoke Newington, until lately, was not so +overrun with small houses as most of the suburbs. In +1855 it was described as “one of the few rural villages +in the immediate environs [of London]. Though, as the +crow flies, but three miles from the General Post Office, +it is still rich in parks, gardens, and old trees.” The last +fifty years have quite transformed its appearance. “Green +Lanes,” which skirts the west of the Park, though with +such a rural-sounding name, is a busy thoroughfare, with +rushing trams; and, but for Clissold Park and Abney +Park Cemetery, but little of its former attractions would +remain. The Cemetery is on the grounds of the old +Manor House, where Sir Thomas Abney lived, and “the +late excellent Dr. Isaac Watts was treated for thirty-six years +with all the kindness that friendship could prompt, and +all the attention that respect could dictate.” The manor +was sold by direction of Sir Thomas’s daughter’s will, and +the proceeds devoted to charitable purposes. The old +church, with its thin spire, and the new large, handsome +Gothic church, built to meet the needs of the growing +population, stand close together at one corner of the +Park, at the end of Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, and on all +sides the towers among the trees form pretty and conspicuous +objects. The house in the Park, for the most<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">143</span> +part disused, stands above the bend of the New River, +which makes a loop through the grounds. It is a white +Georgian house with columns, and looks well with +wide steps and slope to the water’s edge, now alas! +disfigured by high iron railings. The place belonged to +the Crawshay family, by whom it was sold. The +daughter of one of the owners had a romantic attachment +to a curate, the Rev. Augustus Clissold, but the +father would not allow the marriage, and kept his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">144</span> +daughter more or less a prisoner. After her father’s +death, however, she married her lover, and succeeded +to the estate, and changed its name from Crawshay +Farm to Clissold Place. This title has stuck to it, +although it reverted to the Crawshays, and in 1886 +was sold by them.</p> + +<figure id="i_p143" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 30em;"> + <img src="images/i_p143.jpg" width="467" height="510" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p143_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + <span class="smcap">Stoke Newington Church from Clissold Park</span> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>The Park measures 53 acres. There is a small +enclosure with fallow deer and guinea-pigs, some artificial +water, and wide green spaces for games; but the special +beauty of the Park consists in the canal-like New River, +with walks beside it, and in places foliage arching over +it, and the fine large specimen trees round the house. +There are some good cedars, deciduous cypress, ilex, +thorns, and laburnums; a good specimen of one of the +American varieties of oak, <i class="flora" lang="la">Quercus palustris</i>; also acacias +and chestnuts—all looking quite healthy.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Springfield Park</span></h3> + +<p>Not very far from Clissold lies Springfield Park, in +Upper Clapton, opened to the public in 1905. It also +has the advantage of being made out of well laid out +private grounds. The area, 32½ acres, embraced three +residences, two of which have been pulled down, while +the third, Springfield House, which gives its name to +the Park, has been retained, and serves as refreshment +rooms. The view from the front of the house over +Walthamstow Marshes is very extensive. The ground +slopes steeply to the river Lea, and beyond on the plain, +like a lake, the reservoirs of the “East London Works,” +now part of the Metropolitan Water Board, make a +striking picture. Springfield House was, until lately, +one of those pleasant old-fashioned residences of which +there were many in this neighbourhood, standing in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">145</span> +well-planted gardens overlooking the marshes and fertile +flats below. These delightful houses are becoming more +rare every year, and it is fortunate that the grounds of +one of the most attractive should have been preserved as +a public park. The place was well cared for in old days, +as the good specimen trees testify. A flourishing purple +beech is growing up, also a sweet chestnut and several +birches. A very old black mulberry still survives, +although showing signs of age. There are other nice +timber trees on the hillside, and among the shrubs an +<i class="flora" lang="la">Arbutus unedo</i>, the strawberry tree, is one of the most +unusual. This Park, though small, is quite unlike any +other, and has much to recommend it to the general public, +while in the more immediate neighbourhood it is greatly +appreciated.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Waterlow Park</span></h3> + +<p>Undoubtedly the most beautiful of all the parks is +Waterlow, the munificent gift of Sir Sydney Waterlow. +Its situation near Highgate, above all City smoke; its +steep slopes and fine trees; its old garden and historic +associations, combine to give it a character and a charm +of its own. It is small in comparison with such parks +as Victoria, Battersea, or Finsbury, being only 29 acres, +but it has a fascination quite out of proportion to +its size. There are few pleasanter spots on a summer’s +day, and at any season of the year it would well repay a +visit. It is especially attractive when the great city with +its domes and towers is seen clearly at the foot of the +hill. London from a distance never looks hard and +sharp and clear, like some foreign towns. The buildings +do not stand up in definite outline like the churches of +Paris looked down upon from the Eiffel Tower: the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">146</span> +soft curtain of smoke, the mysterious blue light, a +gentle reminder of orange and black fog, shrouds and +beautifies everything it touches. On a June day, when +the grass is vivid and the trees a bright pale green, +Waterlow Park is at its best. The dome of St. Paul’s, +the countless towers of Wren’s city churches, the pinnacles +of the Law Courts, the wonderful Tower Bridge, +dwarfing the old Norman White Tower, all appear in +softened beauty behind the fresh verdure, through well-contrived +peeps and gaps in the trees.</p> + +<p>Most of the ground is too steep for the cricket and +football to which the greater part of other parks are given +over. Only lawn tennis and bowls can be provided for, on +the green lawns at the top of the Park. A delightful +old pond, with steep banks overshadowed by limes and +chestnuts, has a feeling of the real country about it. The +concrete edges, the little patches of aquatic plants and neat +turf, are missing. The banks show signs of last year’s +leaves, fallen sticks, and blackened chestnuts, and any green +near it, is only natural wild plants that enjoy shade and +moisture. It is the sort of place a water-hen would feel +at home in, and not expect to meet intruding Mandarin +ducks or Canadian geese. Let us hope this quiet spot +may long remain untouched. There are two newer lakes +lower down, laid out in approved County Council style, +trim and neat, with water-fowl, water-lilies, and judicious +planting round the banks of weeping willows and +rhododendron clumps. Probably many visitors find +them more attractive than the upper pool. There is +no fault to find with them, and they are perhaps more +suited to a public park, but they are devoid of the +poetry which raises the other out of the commonplace. +As the slopes towards the lower lakes are the playground<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">147</span> +of multitudes of babies, it is necessary to protect them +from the water’s edge by substantial railings, but most +of the Park is singularly free from these unsightly but +often necessary safeguards. The trees all through the +grounds are unusually fine. Four hickories are particularly +worthy of note. They are indeed grand and +graceful trees, and it is astonishing they should be so +little planted. These are noble specimens, and look +extremely healthy.</p> + +<p>The most characteristic feature in the Park is the +house it contains and the garden immediately round it. +This was built for Lauderdale, the “L” in the Cabal of +Charles II., probably about 1660. When this unattractive +character was not living there himself, he not unfrequently +lent it to Nell Gwynn. The ground floor of +the house is open to the public as refreshment rooms, +and one empty parlour with seats has much good old +carving, of the date of the house, over the mantelpiece, +also in a recess which encloses a marble bath known as +“Nell Gwynn’s bath.” It is said to have been from a +window in Lauderdale House that she held out her son +when Charles was walking below, threatening to let him +drop if the King did not promise to confer some title +upon him. In response Charles exclaimed, “Save the +Earl of Burford,” which title (and later, that of Duke +of St. Albans) was formally conferred upon him.</p> + +<p>The terrace along which the King was walking is still +there. A little inscription has been inserted on a sun-dial +near the wall, to record the fact that the dial-plate is level +with the top of St. Paul’s Cathedral. A flight of steps +leads to a lower terrace. This is planted in a formal +design consisting of three circles, the centre one having +a fountain. Two more flights of steps descend, in a line<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">148</span> +from the fountain, to a broad walk bordered with flowers +leading to one of the entrances to the Park. At right +angles to the other steps a walk leads from the fountain +to another part of the garden, which is planted with old +fruit-trees on the grassy slope. It is at the foot of these +steps that the water-colour sketch is taken. The “eagles +with wings expanded” are the supporters of the Lauderdale +arms. The whole garden is delightful, and so much +in keeping with the house that it is easy to picture the +much-disliked Lauderdale, the genial King, and fascinating +“Nell,” living and moving on its terraces. Pepys +gives a glimpse of one of these characters at home. He +drove up alone with Lord Brouncker, in a coach and six. +No doubt the hill made the six very necessary, as in +another place Pepys talks of the bad road to Highgate. +They joined Lord Lauderdale “and his lady, and some +Scotch people,” at supper. Scotch airs were played by +one of the servants on the violin; “the best of their +country, as they seemed to esteem them, by their praising +and admiring them: but, Lord! the strangest ayre that +ever I heard in my life, and all of one cast. But strange +to hear my Lord Lauderdale say himself that he had +rather hear a cat mew, than the best musique in the +world; and the better the musique, the more sick it +makes him; and that of all instruments, he hates the +lute most, and next to that the baggpipe.” These +sentiments may not prove that Lauderdale was “a +man of mighty good reason and judgement,” as Lord +Brouncker assured Pepys when he said he thought it +“odd company,” but at least it shows him honest! +How many people who sit patiently through a performance +of the “Ring” would have as much courage +of their opinions?</p> + +<figure id="i_p148c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 52em;"> + <img src="images/i_p148c.jpg" width="826" height="548" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p148c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + WATERLOW PARK + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">149</span></p> + +<p>Within the grounds of the present Park, near Lauderdale +House, stood a small cottage in which Andrew +Marvel lived, which was only pulled down in 1869. It +was considered unsafe, and no National Trust Society +was then in existence to make efforts for its preservation. +In a “History of Highgate” in 1842 the connection +between the place and this curious personage, political +writer, poet, Member of Parliament, and friend of Milton +is barely commented on. “Andrew Marvel, a writer +of the seventeenth century, resided on the Bank at Highgate +in the cottage now occupied by Mrs. Walker.” The +reader of these lines is penetrated with a feeling that he +ought to know all about Mrs. Walker, rather than the +obscure writer!</p> + +<p>The kitchen-garden is large, with charming herbaceous +borders, and a long row of glass-houses and vineries, +and the grapes produced have hitherto been given to +hospitals. Let us hope that the same complaint will not +arise here as in another Park, where out-door fruit was +distributed, and caused such jealousies that the practice +was discontinued.</p> + +<p>With such a high standard set by the existing gardens, +it is curious that the new bedding should be as much out +of harmony as possible. The beds which call forth this +remark are those round the band-stand. The shape of +them it is impossible to describe, for they are of uncertain +form and indistinct meaning. The flowers are in bold +groups, and yet they look thoroughly out of place.</p> + +<p>Wandering one summer’s day near the statue, erected +to Sir Sydney Waterlow, the writer overheard some girls, +who looked like shop-girls out for a holiday, discussing +who it was. The most enterprising went up and read +the inscription. “To Sir Sydney H. Waterlow, Bart.,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">150</span> +donor of the Park 1889, Lord Mayor of London +1872–73. Erected by public subscription 1900.” “Why, +it’s to some chap that was once Lord Mayor,” was the +remark to her friend, following a close scrutiny of this +bald inscription. The impulse to explain the meaning of +the word “donor” was irresistible; it was evidently quite +Greek to these two Cockney young ladies. On learning +the meaning they were very ready to join in a tribute of +gratitude to the giver of such a princely present. Surely +a few words expressing such a feeling would have been +appropriate on the statue so rightly erected in memory +of the gift! Profound feelings of thanks to the giver +must indeed be experienced by every one who has +the privilege of enjoying this lovely Park, one of the +most charming spots within easy reach of the heart +of the City.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Golder’s Hill Park</span></h3> + +<p>Golder’s Hill Park joins the western end of +Hampstead Heath, but its park-like appearance and +house and garden are quite a contrast to the wilder +scenery of the Heath, although Golder’s Hill seems +more in the country than Hampstead, as the houses +near are so well hidden from it. The mansion has +a modern exterior, although parts of it are very old, +and the fine trees in the grounds show that it has +been a pleasant residence for some hundreds of years. +The estate of 36 acres was bought in 1898 from the +executors of Sir Spencer Wells, the money in the first +instance being advanced by three public-spirited gentlemen, +anxious to save the charming spot from the hands +of the builder. The view from the terrace of the house, +which now serves as a refreshment room, is very pretty,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">151</span> +with a gently sloping lawn in front, park-like meadows, +and fine trees beyond the dividing sunk fence, and distant +peeps of the country towards Harrow. The approach +from the Finchley Road is by an avenue of chestnuts, and +a flat paddock on one side is a hockey and cricket-ground +for ladies. There are some really fine oaks, good beeches, +ash, sycamore, Spanish chestnuts, and Scotch firs; but the +most remarkable tree is a very fine tulip, which flowers +profusely nearly every year. At the bottom of the Park +an undisturbed pond, with reedy margin, is much frequented +by moor-hens. The valley above is railed off for +some red deer, peacocks, and an emu, while three storks +are to be seen prancing about under the oak trees in the +open Park. The most attractive corner is the kitchen-garden, +which, like the one in Brockwell, has been turned +into an extremely pretty flower-garden. On one side is a +range of hothouses, where plants are produced for bedding +out, and a good supply of fruit is raised and sold +to the refreshment-room contractor on the spot. Two +sides have old red walls covered with pear trees, which +produce but little fruit, and the fourth has a good +holly hedge. The vines from one of the vineries have +been planted out, and they cover a large rustic shelter, +and have picturesque though not edible bunches of +grapes every year. The way the planting of roses, +herbaceous and rock plants, and spring bulbs is arranged +is very good; but the same misleadingly-worded notice +with regard to the plants of Shakespeare is placed here +as in the Brockwell “old English garden.”<a id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">7</a> There +is a nice old quince and other fruit-tree standards in +this really charming garden. In another part of the +grounds there is an orchard, not “improved” in any<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">152</span> +way, but left as it might be in Herefordshire, with grass +and wild flowers under the trees, which bear bushels of +ruddy apples every year.</p> + +<p>Part of the Park is actually outside London, but it is +all kept up by the London County Council. The parish +boundary of Hampstead and Hendon, which is also the +limit of the County of London, is seen in the middle +among the oak trees.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Ravenscourt Park</span></h3> + +<p>Ravenscourt is another of those parks the nucleus of +which was an old Manor House, hence the existence +of fine old trees, which at once lift from it the crudeness +which is invariably associated with a brand-new Municipal +Park. A bird’s-eye view of the ground is familiar to +many who pass over the viaduct in the London and +South-Western trains. These arches intersect one end of +the Park, and cut across the beginning of the fine old +elm avenue, one of its most beautiful features. A bright +piece of garden, typical of every London Park, with raised +borders in bays and promontories, jutting into grass and +backed by bushes, lies to the south of the viaduct. +Where two paths diverge there is a pleasing variation to +the usual type—a sun-dial—erected by Sir William Bull +to “a sunny memory.” The arches have been utilised +so as to compensate for the intrusion of the railway. +Asphalted underneath, they form shelters in wet weather—one +is given over to an aviary, two to bars for the +elder children to climb on, and one is fitted with swings +for the babies. This arch is by far the most popular, +and it requires all the vigilance of the park-keeper to see +that only the really small children use the swings, or +the bigger girls would monopolise them. Perhaps the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">153</span> +indulgent and fatherly London County Council will +provide swings for the elders, too, some day, and so +remove the small jealousies.</p> + +<p>To the west of the long avenue lies the orchard. A +stretch of grass, devoted to tennis-courts and bowling-greens, +separates the pear trees from the walk. These +pears and the solitary apple tree are delightful in spring, +and a temptation in autumn. Round the house, which +is not by any means as picturesque as the date of its +building (about 1649) would lead one to expect, are some +good trees—planes that are really old, with massive +stems, horse-chestnuts and limes, acacias that have seen +their best days, cedars suffering from age and smoke, +and a good catalpa. The Manor House which preceded +the present building was of ancient origin. In early +times it was known as the Manor House of Paddenswick, +or Pallenswick, under the Manor of Fulham, and was +the residence of Alice Perrers, the favourite of Edward +III. It was seized in 1378, when she was banished +by Richard II.; but after the reversion of her sentence, +she returned to England as the wife of Lord Windsor, +and the King, in 1380, granted the manor to him. It is +not heard of again till Elizabeth’s time, when it belonged +to the Payne family, and was sold by them in 1631 to +Sir Richard Gurney, the Royalist Lord Mayor, who +perished in the Tower. After his death it was bought +by Maximilian Bard, who probably pulled down the old +house and built the present one, which is now used as +the Hammersmith Public Library. In the eighteenth +century the name was changed from Paddenswick (a +title preserved by a road of that name running near the +Park) to Ravenscourt, an enduring recollection of the +device of a black raven, the arms of Thomas Corbett,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">154</span> +Secretary to the Admiralty, who owned the place for a +few short years. Nearly every vestige of the surroundings +of the old manor was obliterated and improved away +by Humphrey Repton, the celebrated landscape gardener. +He filled up most of the old moat, except a small piece, +which was transformed into a lake, more in harmony +with the landscape school to which he belonged. This +piece of water is a pretty feature in the Park, and an +attempt has been made to recall the older style, by introducing +a little formal garden in an angle of the enclosing +wall of the Park. The square has been completed with +two hedges, one of them of holly, and good iron gates +afford an entrance. The “old English garden,” from +which dogs and young children, unless under proper +supervision, are excluded, is laid out in good taste—a +simple, suitable design, with appropriate masses of roses +and herbaceous plants, arches with climbers, and an +abundance of seats. It has the same misleading notice +with regard to Shakespearian plants, as in Golder’s Hill +and Brockwell, one of the South London Parks, which +must now be looked at.</p> +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">155</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VII"><span id="toclink_155"></span><span class="gesperrt">CHAPTER VII</span><br> + +<span class="subhead">MUNICIPAL PARKS IN SOUTH LONDON</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>No fresh’ning breeze—no trellised bower,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>No bee to chase from flower to flower;</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>’Tis dimly close—in city pent—</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>But the hearts within it are well content.</i></div> + </div> + <div class="attrib">—<span class="smcap">Eliza Cook.</span></div> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="idc idcO"><img src="images/i_idc_o.png" width="181" height="186" alt="O"> +<span class="firstword">Of</span> the South London Parks Battersea +is the largest and most westerly, +and the best known to people +outside its own district. Battersea +is entirely new, and has no +history as a Park, for before the +middle of last century the +greater part was nothing but a +dismal marsh. The ground had to be raised and +entirely made before the planting of it as a park could +begin at all. The site was low-lying fields with reeds +and swamps near the water, and market-gardens +famous for the asparagus, sold as “Battersea bundles,” +growing around it. In the eighteenth century three +windmills were conspicuous from the river. One ground +corn, another the colours, and the third served to grind +the white lead for the potteries. This was during +the time when Battersea enamel was at its height, and +snuff-boxes were being turned out in quantities. On +the banks of the river stood a tavern and Tea Garden,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">156</span> +known as the Red House for many generations. It was +much resorted to, but latterly its reputation was none +of the best. Games of all kinds took place in its +gardens, and pigeon-shooting was one of the greatest +attractions there, during the first half of the nineteenth +century. Although for long, crowds enjoyed harmless +amusements there—“flounder breakfasts,” and an annual +“sucking-pig dinner,” and such-like—towards the end +of the time of its existence, it became the centre +of such noisy and riotous merrymakings that the +grounds of the Red House became notorious. The +Sunday fairs, with the attendant evils of races, gambling, +and drinking, were crowded, and thousands of the +less reputable sections of the community landed every +Sunday at the Red House to join in these revellings. +It was chiefly with a view to doing away with this +state of affairs, that the scheme was set on foot, for +absorbing the grounds of the Red House, and other +less famous taverns and gardens that had sprung up +round it, and forming a Park.</p> + +<p>Battersea, or “Patricesy,” as it is written in +Domesday, was a manor belonging to the Abbey of +Westminster until the Dissolution of the Monasteries. +The name is most probably derived from the fact that +it was lands of St. Peter’s Abbey “by the water.” +Later on it came into the St. John family, and Henry +St. John, Lord Bolingbroke, was born and died in +Battersea. After his death it was purchased by Earl +Spencer, in whose family it remains. Part of the +fields were Lammas Lands, for which the parish was +duly compensated. The gloomy wildness of the fields +gave rise to superstitions, and a haunted house, from +which groans proceeded and mysterious lights were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">157</span> +seen at night, at one time scared the neighbourhood, +and enticed the adventurous. The only historical +incident, connected with the fields, is the duel fought +there in 1829 between the Duke of Wellington and +the Marquess of Winchelsea; the latter having personally +attacked the Duke during the debates on the +Catholic Emancipation Bill. The Duke aimed his +shot through his adversary’s hat, who then fired in +the air, and the affair of honour was thus settled. +Battersea Fields were approached, in those days, by the +old wooden Battersea Bridge which had superseded +the ferry; the only means of communication till 1772. +The present bridges at either corner of the Park have +both been built since the Park was formed.</p> + +<p>Like Victoria Park, Battersea was administered +with the other Royal Parks, in the first instance. The +Act of Parliament giving powers to the “Commissioners +of Her Majesty’s Woods” to form the Park +was passed in 1846, but so much had to be done to +the land, that the actual planting did not begin until +1857. The ground had all to be drained, and raised, +and a proper embankment made to keep out the river. +Just at this time the Victoria Docks were being excavated, +and the earth dug out of them was conveyed +to Battersea. Places were left, to form the shallow +artificial lake, mounds raised, to make the ground round +the water undulating, and the rest of the surface of +the Park levelled. Altogether about a million cubic +yards of earth were deposited in Battersea Park. The +extent is 198 acres, and from the nature of the +ground, except the artificial elevations near the lake, it +is quite flat. The design was originally made by Sir +James Pennethorne, architect of the Office of Works,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">158</span> +and the execution of it completed by Mr. Farrow. +The chief features, are the artificial water (for the +most part supplied by the Thames), and the avenue +of elms which traverses the Park from east to west, +and cross walks, with a band-stand and drinking-fountain +at the converging points. Round the Park +runs a carriage drive, and, following a different line, +a track for riders—with the usual spaces for games +between. The trees are growing up well, so already +any bareness has disappeared. The absolute flatness, +which makes the open spaces uninteresting, is relieved +by the avenue, which will some day be a fine one.</p> + +<p>It is an object-lesson to show the advantage of +avenues and shady walks, too often ignored by modern +park designers, or only carried out in a feeble, half-hearted +way. The chief variation in Battersea Park +was achieved by John Gibson, the Park Superintendent, +who made the sub-tropical garden in 1864. His experience, +gained on a botanical mission to India, which +he undertook for the Duke of Devonshire, well fitted +him for the task. This garden has always been kept +up and added to, and specially improved in the Seventies, +while the present Lord Redesdale was at the +Office of Works.</p> + +<p>A sub-tropical garden was quite a novelty when +first started here, and caused much interest to horticulturalists +and landscape gardeners. The “Sub-tropical +Garden,” by W. Robinson, and other writings on the +subject, have since made the effects which can be produced +familiar to all gardeners; but in 1864 to group +hardy plants of a tropical appearance, such as aralias, +acanthus, eulalias, bamboos, or fan palms, was a new +idea. During the summer, cannas, tobacco, various<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">159</span> +palms, bananas, and so on, were added to the collection, +and caused quite an excitement when they first appeared +at Battersea. The garden is still kept up, and looks +pretty and cool in summer, and on a cold winter’s +day is sheltered and pleasant. But much of the +charm and originality of the early planting has been +lost, in the present official idea of what sub-tropical +gardens should contain, which carries a certain stereotyped +stiffness with it.</p> + +<p>In 1887 the Park, at the same time as Victoria +and Kennington, was given up to the Metropolitan +Board of Works, and since then the control has passed +to its successor, the London County Council. The +gardens are kept up, more or less, as before, with a +few additions. An aviary with a restless raven, fat +gold and silver pheasants, and contented pigeons, +delights the small children, who are as plentiful in +Battersea as in all the other London playgrounds. +Like the other parks, Saturdays and Sundays are the +great days. The games of cricket are played as close +together as possible, until to the passer-by the elevens +and even the balls seem hopelessly mixed. The ground +not devoted to games is thickly strewn with prostrate +forms, and certainly, in this, Battersea is by no means +singular! In autumn, one of the green-houses, in which +the more tender sub-tropical plants are housed is given +up to chrysanthemums. This flower is the one of +all others for London. It will thrive in the dingiest +corners of the town, and display its colours long after +the fogs and frosts have deprived the parks and gardens +of all other colour. The shows in the East End testify +to what can be achieved, even by the poorest, with +this friendly plant. Every year at Shoreditch Town<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">160</span> +Hall the local exhibition takes place, and there are +many similar institutions, where monster blooms, grown +on roofs or in small back gardens, would compete +creditably at a national show. The popularity of the +chrysanthemums in Battersea Park is so great, that +on a fine Sunday there is a string of people waiting +their turn of walking through, stretching for fifty +yards at least from the green-house to the entrance to +the frame-ground. Certainly the arrangement of the +green-house is prettily done. The stages are removed, +and a sanded path with a double twist meanders among +groups of plants sloping up to the rafters, and a few +long, lanky ones trained to arch under the roof. The +show is much looked forward to, and the colours and +arrangements compared with former years, praised or +criticised, such is the eager interest of those who crowd to +take their turn for a peep. It is delightful to watch the +pleasure on all faces, as a whole family out for their Sunday +walk, press in together. It is only one more instance +of the joy the London Parks bring to millions of lives.</p> + +<p>The world of fashion has only attacked Battersea +Park spasmodically. When it was new, and the sub-tropical +garden a rarity, people drove out from Mayfair +or Belgravia to see it. Again Battersea became +the fashion when the cycling craze began. In the +summer of 1895 it suddenly became “the thing” to +bicycle to breakfast in Battersea Park, and ladies who +had never before visited this South London Park +flocked there in the early mornings. It was away +from the traffic that disturbed the beginner in Hyde +or St. James’s Park, and perhaps the daring originality +of cycling seemed to demand that conventions should +further be violated; and nothing so commonplace as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">161</span> +Hyde Park would satisfy the aspirations of the newly-emancipated +lady cyclists. What would their ancestors, +who had paced the Mall in powder and crinolines, +have said to the short-skirted, energetic young or even +elderly cyclist? No doubt some of that language +which shocks modern ears, used by the heroines in +“Sir Charles Grandison,” would have been found equal +to the occasion. The great cycling rage is over, and +Battersea is again deserted by fair beings, who now +prefer to fly further afield in motors, but the Park +is just as crowded by those for whose benefit it was +really made—the ever-growing population of London +south of the river.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Vauxhall Park</span></h3> + +<p>Going east from Battersea the next Park is Vauxhall, +a small oasis of green in a crowded district. Although +only 8 acres in extent, it is a great boon to the neighbourhood, +and hundreds of children play there every day. +It has been open since 1891, the land, occupied by houses +with gardens, having been acquired and the houses demolished, +and the little Park is owned and kept up by +Lambeth Borough Council.</p> + +<p>It has nothing to do with the famous Vauxhall +Gardens, to which the rank and fashion of the town +flocked for nearly two hundred years; and the country +visitor to Vauxhall Park could hardly speak of it in such +glowing terms as Farmer Colin to his wife in 1741 of +the famous Vauxhall Spring <span class="locked">Gardens:—</span></p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“O Mary! soft in feature,</div> + <div class="verse indent2">I’ve been at dear Vauxhall;</div> + <div class="verse indent0">No paradise is sweeter,</div> + <div class="verse indent2">Not that they Eden call.</div><span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">162</span> + </div> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“Methought, when first I entered,</div> + <div class="verse indent2">Such splendours round me shone,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Into a world I ventured</div> + <div class="verse indent2">Where rose another sun.”</div> + </div> +</div> +</div> + +<p>The site of these Gardens, which covered some twelve +acres with groves, avenues, dining-halls, the famous +Rotunda and caverns, cascades and pavilions, is now all +built over. It lay about as far to the south-east of +Vauxhall Bridge as the little Park is to the south-west. +In name Vauxhall sounds quaint and un-English. In +earlier times it was known as Foxhall, or more correctly +Foukeshall, from Foukes de Breant, who married a sister +of Archbishop Baldwin in the latter half of the twelfth +century.</p> + +<p>The land of the present Park was purchased in May +1889.<a id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">8</a> Then it was covered by houses standing in +their own grounds. The largest of these was Carroun +or Caroone House, which had been built by Sir Noel de +Caron, who was Ambassador of the Netherlands for +thirty-three years, during the reigns of Elizabeth and +James I.—the others, a row of eight with gardens, were +known as “The Lawn.” In front of them was a long +pond, said to have been fed by the Effra River. This +stream, which rose in Norwood and flowed into the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">163</span> +Thames at Vauxhall, has, like most of the other streams +of London, become a sewer, and the pond is no more. +In one of these houses (51 South Lambeth Road) Mr. +Henry Fawcett resided, and when the houses were pulled +down to form the Park his was left, the intention being +to make it into some memorial of him. It was found to +be too much out of repair to retain, and had to be pulled +down. With the sum which the sale of materials from +the old house realised, it was proposed to erect a memorial +drinking-fountain. This idea bore fruit, as Sir Henry +Doulton sold one to the vestry for less than one-third of +its value, and moreover gave a further memorial to the +courageous blind Postmaster-General of a portrait statue +by Tinworth, with appropriate allegorical figures. +This fine group recording the connection of Henry +Fawcett with the place is the most conspicuous feature +of the Park. The trees are growing up, and an abundance +of seats and dry walks made it an enjoyable if not +beautiful garden. The swings and gymnasiums are +numerous and large, but what gives most pleasure is +the sand-garden for little children. For hours and hours +these small mites are happily occupied digging and making +clean mud pies, while their elders sit by and work. It is +touching to see the miniature castles and carefully patted +puddings at the close of a busy baby’s day. In the +summer, when the sand is too dry to bind, some of the +infants bring small bottles, which they manage to get +filled at the drinking-fountain, and water their little handfuls +of sand. These children’s sand-gardens, common in +parks in the United States, are a delightful invention for +the safe amusement of these small folk, and the delight +caused by this one, which was only made in 1905, shows +how greatly they are appreciated. Many of the parks<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">164</span> +and some of the commons now have their “sea-side” or +“sand-pit,” and probably not only do they give immense +pleasure, but they act as a safety-valve for small mischievous +urchins, who otherwise could not resist trespassing +on flower-beds.</p> + +<p>The grass in this, as in all the parks, has to be enclosed +at times, to let it recover, the tramp of many feet. +The wattled hurdles which are often used in the London +Parks for this purpose, have quite a rustic appearance. +They are like those which appear in all the agricultural +scenes depicted in fifteenth century MSS. It is much to +be hoped that no modern invention in metal will be +found to take their place.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Kennington Park</span></h3> + +<p>Not very far from Vauxhall, beyond the famous +Oval, lies the larger and more pretentious Kennington +Park of 19½ acres. This has a long history as Kennington +Common. It formed part of the Duchy of Cornwall +estates, having been settled by James I. on Prince Henry, +and has since belonged to each succeeding Prince of +Wales. In still earlier times there was a Royal Palace +at Kennington, which fell into decay after Henry +VIII.’s reign. Here as on all similar commons, the +people had a right of grazing cattle for six months of +the year. But the moment it was open to them in the +spring such a number of beasts were turned on to the +ground, that in a very short time “the herbage” was +“devoured, and it remained entirely bare for the rest of +the season.”</p> + +<p>The Common was a great place for games of all sorts, +particularly cricket. When in 1852 it was turned into +a Park, and play could not go on to the same extent, by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">165</span> +suggestion of the Prince Consort, a piece of land, then +market-gardens, was let by the Duchy to the Surrey +Cricket Club, which was formed for the purpose of +maintaining it. This is the ground that has since +gained such notoriety as the Oval, the scene of many +a match historical in the annals of cricket. The +Common, too, was famous for the masses that collected +there to hear Whitfield preach. His congregations +numbered from 10,000 to 40,000 persons, and his +voice would carry to the “extremest part of the +audience.” He notes in his diary, Sunday, May 6, +1731—“At six in the evening went and preached at +Kennington; but such a sight I never saw before. Some +supposed there were above 30,000 or 40,000 people, and +near fourscore coaches, besides great number of horses; +and there was such an awful silence amongst them, and +the Word of God came with such power, that all seemed +pleasingly surprised. I continued my discourse for an +hour and a half.” The last time he preached there was +a farewell sermon before he went to America in August +1739.</p> + +<p>Two other incidents are connected with Kennington +Common, neither so pleasant—the scenes of the execution +for high treason, with all the attendant horrors, +of the “Manchester rebels” after the ’45; and the +great Chartist revolutionary meeting under Feargus +O’Connor in 1848. The precautions taken by the +Duke of Wellington saved the situation, and the +200,000 people who it had been proposed should +march to Westminster melted away, and the whole +thing was a fiasco.</p> + +<p>It was soon after this episode that the Common was +converted into a Park. The ground, including all the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">166</span> +Common and the site of the Pound, was handed over +by the Duchy of Cornwall (by Act of Parliament), +to be laid out as “Pleasure grounds for the recreation +of the public; but if it cease to be so maintained” +to “revert to the Duchy.”</p> + +<p>The transformation has been very successful, and the +design was suitable and well conceived. The large greens +are divided by wide paths shaded by trees, and each +section can be closed in turn to preserve the grass. There +is a sunk formal garden, bedded out with bright flowers, +which show up well on the green turf; and at one +end there are shrubberies with twisting walks in the +style that is truly characteristic of the English Park, and +seems to appeal to so many people. The whole space is +not large, but the most is made of it, and both the formal +and the “natural” sections have their attractions. At +the “natural” end, near the church—which, by the way, +was built as a thank-offering after Waterloo—is a handsome +granite drinking-fountain, designed by Driver, +and presented by Mr. Felix Slade; and in the centre of +the Park is a fountain, given by Sir Henry Doulton, +with a group of figures by Tinworth, emblematic of +“The Pilgrimage of Life.” The Lodge was the model +lodging-house erected by the Prince Consort in the +Great Exhibition of 1851.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Myatt’s Fields</span></h3> + +<p>Myatt’s Fields or Camberwell Park is but a short +distance to the south-west of Kennington. This Park +of 14½ acres was one of those princely gifts which +have been showered on the inhabitants of London. It +was presented by Mr. William Minet, in whose family +the land has been since 1770. His ancestors were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">168</span> +Huguenots who had come to England at the time of +the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes.</p> + +<figure id="i_p167" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 30em;"> + <img src="images/i_p167.jpg" width="529" height="788" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p167_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + <span class="smcap">Fountain by Tinworth, Kennington Park</span> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>It was handed over to the newly-formed County +Council in 1889, having been previously laid out. The +way in which this was done with an avenue, which will +some day be one of the great beauties of the neighbourhood, +and which is in the meantime a pleasant shady +walk, has already been commented on. For its size, +Myatt’s Fields is one of the most tasteful of the new +parks. Its quaint name is a survival of the time +when the ground was a market-garden leased by a +certain Myatt from 1818–69. The excellent qualities +of the strawberries and rhubarb raised there, gave the +Fields such a good reputation in the district, and the +name became so familiar, that it was retained for the +Park.</p> + +<p>Camberwell Green is a distinct place, not far distant, +and is noticed among the village greens of London.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Ruskin Park</span></h3> + +<p>Ruskin Park, the newest of all the parks, is not very +far from Camberwell, and has been formed of a cluster of +houses, with grounds of their own, on Denmark Hill, +known as the Sanders’ Estate. The name, which has an +“Art Nouveau” sound about it, and raises an expectation +of something beautiful, was given to it because John +Ruskin for many years lived in the neighbourhood. From +1823, when he was four, to 1843, his home was 28 Herne +Hill, and there he wrote “Modern Painters.” From then +until 1871 he lived even nearer the present Park, at 163 +Denmark Hill. Describing the house, Ruskin wrote of +it: “It stood in command of seven acres of healthy +ground ... half of it meadow sloping to the sunrise,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">169</span> +the rest prudently and pleasantly divided into an +upper and lower kitchen-garden; a fruitful bit of +orchard, and chance inlets and outlets of wood walk, +opening to the sunny path by the field, which was +gladdened on its other side in springtime by flushes of +almond and double peach blossom.” Such might have +been the description of the houses and grounds now +turned into a park. Some of the lines of the villa +gardens have been retained, and some wise and necessary +additions and changes have been made to bring the whole +together; but even the inspiration of Ruskin has not +kept out the inevitable edges and backbones of uninteresting +evergreens. Some of the green-houses have been kept, +but six dwellings have been demolished, and one of the +two retained will be used as a refreshment room. The +outside wall of the garden front of one, covered with +wistaria, has been left, facing its own little terrace and lawn +and cedars, and soon after the opening, in February 1907, +many people found it was possible to get sun and shelter +and enjoy the prospect from the seats in front of the +ruined drawing-room windows. The dividing wall of +two houses has been cleverly turned into what will be a +charming pergola, and below, the ground has been levelled +to form a bowling-green. The terraces and steps from +one level to another are a pleasing feature in the design. +The ground is not yet finished, and it is greatly to be +hoped that the usual clumps of evergreens will not be +multiplied, but Ruskin’s description borne in mind, and +let there be almonds and double peaches to gladden the +spring, and not drooping, smutty evergreens, or “ever +blacks,” as they might be more fittingly called, to jar on +the picture of fresh young growth. The pond, a stiff +oval, has had to have the necessary iron railings, and the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">170</span> +trees near it have been substantially barricaded with rustic +seats—a most important addition. The avenue of chestnuts +which crosses the open part of the ground has been +left; and there are other good young trees growing up, +and a fine old ilex and mulberry. There is already +a question of adding a further 12 acres to this Park, +which is 24 acres at present, but the scheme is still +under consideration.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Brockwell Park</span></h3> + +<p>Those who want a change, from the roar and bustle +of streets, can attain their object very quickly by the +expenditure of a few pence and fifteen minutes in the +train. Getting out at Herne Hill Station, in a few +seconds the gates of Brockwell Park are reached. The +old trees and undulating ground are all that could be +desired, but the chief attraction, and the object that well +repays a visit, is the old walled garden. It is a high +brick enclosure, with fine old trees peeping above, and +festoons of climbing plants brightening the dull red +walls. The narrow paths, running in straight lines +round and across, are here and there, spanned by rustic +arches covered with roses, or clematis, or gourds, from +which hang glowing orange fruit in autumn. In the +centre of the garden a small fountain plays on to moss-grown +stones, and on a hot summer’s day the seats, +shaded by the luxuriant Traveller’s Joy, make a cool +resting-place, though not so sequestered as the arbours +in the angles of the wall, darkened by other climbers. +The rest of the garden is a delightful tangle of herbaceous +plants. All the old favourites are there, and a small +notice near the entrance announces to those in search of +knowledge that the garden contains all herbs and garden<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">171</span> +plants mentioned in Shakespeare’s works. A little knowledge +is a dangerous thing, and the unwary might not +realise that the flowers of Shakespeare’s time, although +undoubtedly there, only form a small portion of the +whole display. The board is literally true, but visitors +are apt to go away with the idea that brilliant dahlias, +and gaudy calceolarias, or even the most modern introduction, +<i class="flora" lang="la">Kochia tricophila</i>, were friends of Shakespeare’s! +A large number of the plants, however, are truly of the +Elizabethan age, that golden time of progress in gardening +as well as of other arts, when spirited courtiers and +hardened old sailors alike scoured the seas and brought +strange plants from new lands. Many of these now +familiar treasures from east and west flourish in this little +enclosure, and recall the romantic days of the sixteenth +century: the Marvel of Peru—the very name tells the +delight that heralded its arrival from the West—the +quaint Egg-plant (<i class="flora" lang="la">Solanum ovigerum</i>) brought from +Africa, and the bright-seeded Capsicums from India. +Even the bush, with its wealth of white or purple flowers, +the <i class="flora" lang="la">Hibiscus Syriacus</i>, was known in those days, though +not by that name. Gerard, in describing it, says it was +a stranger to England; “notwithstanding, I have sowen +some seedes of them in my garden, expecting successe.” +That delightful confidence, which is the great characteristic +of all these old gardeners, was not abused, apparently, +in this case, for two years later, in the catalogue +of plants in his garden, 1599, this great tree mallow was +flourishing. Many of the gourds, which are grown to +great advantage in this little garden, were also known at +an early date. Gerard says of them, “they joy in a +fruitful soil, and are common in England.” Were it not +for the conspicuous little notice-board, no fault could be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">172</span> +found with the selection of plants which, from early +spring till late autumn, brighten this romantic little +garden. The <i class="flora" lang="la">Solanum jasminoides</i> is none the less +graceful because it has only found a home in sheltered +corners in England, for the last seventy years. <i class="flora" lang="la">Cobæa +scandens</i>, which festoons very charmingly some of the +arches, is certainly an old friend, having been over a +hundred years in this country; but it is a new-comer +when compared with the Passion Flower growing in +profusion near it, and even that did not appear until +after Shakespeare’s death. It was unknown to Gerard, +but his editor, Thomas Johnson, illustrates it in the +appendix to the edition of 1633. It had then arrived +from America, “whence it hath been brought into +our English gardens, where it growes very well, but +floures only in some few places, and in hot and seasonable +yeares: it is in good plenty growing with Mistresse +Tuggy at Westminster, where I have some years seene +it beare a great many floures.” Mistress Tuggy and +her friend would have rejoiced at the sight of the +house in the centre of Brockwell Park on a warm +October day, thickly covered with the golden fruit as +well as star-like flowers of their precious “Maracoc or +Passion-floure.”</p> + +<figure id="i_p172c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 35em;"> + <img src="images/i_p172c.jpg" width="553" height="669" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p172c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + OLD ENGLISH GARDEN, BROCKWELL PARK + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>This delightful walled garden was the old kitchen-garden. +Luckily, the fashion for the gardens of a past +generation was growing at the time the Park was purchased, +and the London County Council must be congratulated +on the good taste displayed in dealing with it. +The history of the acquisition of the ground is soon told. +The desire for a park in this neighbourhood led those +interested to try and arrange to buy Raleigh House in +the Brixton Road, with some 10 acres of land, for about<span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">173</span> +£40,000. Having got an Act of Parliament to allow +this, Brockwell Park came into the market with a ready-made +park of 78 acres. The Act of 1888 was repealed, +and eventually a sum of nearly £120,000 was spent on +the purchase of Brockwell, which was opened to the +public in 1892. Near the entrance gates, close to Herne +Hill Railway Station, a drinking-fountain, with a graceful +figure of “Perseverance” and portrait bust, has been +erected to Mr. Thomas Lynn Bristowe, M.P. for Norwood, +who was chiefly instrumental in obtaining the +Park, and whose death occurred with tragic suddenness +at the opening ceremony. It is quite a steep hill up +to the house, which is of no great antiquity or beauty, +having been built at the beginning of last century, when +the older manor-house was pulled down, by Mr. Blades, +the ancestor of the last owner. The view on all sides is +extensive, and the timber is fine. There are good old +oaks, as well as elms and limes; and it is satisfactory to +see that, in the recent planting, limes have been given a +place, and not only the overdone plane. As a contrast +to the delightful formal garden, some pretty wild grouping +has been carried out beside the artificial water. This +series of ponds are an addition to the Park as originally +purchased. It now measures 84 acres, and the extra +piece contained water, which has been enlarged into a big +bathing-pool and a so-called “Japanese garden.” These +ponds are well arranged; and although there are various +kinds of ducks and geese and black swans, and concrete +edges and wire netting are inevitable, they are not so +aggressive as in many parks. In places tall plants have +been put in behind the railings and allowed to hang over, +to break the undue stiffness. In the late autumn purple +Michaelmas daisies nearly touched the water, and the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">174</span> +red berries of the Pyracantha overhung the ducks +without apparent disagreement.</p> + +<p>The opening of Brockwell as a public Park has had +the effect of banishing most of the rooks. There was a +large rookery, but year by year the nests decrease. In +1896 there were thirty-five nests, the next year twenty, +while in 1898 there were only eight or ten. Thus every +season they are getting fewer, but still, in the spring of +1907, one pair of rooks were bold enough to build.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Dulwich Park</span></h3> + +<p>Dulwich Park is not very far from Brockwell, but +its surroundings are more open. A few of the roads +near it have some feeling of the country left. The +houses that are springing up are of a cheerful villa +type, and have nothing of the monotony and dulness +of most of the suburbs. Fine old trees grow along +many of the roads. The chestnuts, for instance, in +Half Moon Lane between Herne Hill and Dulwich +are charming, and also on the further side of the Park, +where the celebrated inn, the “Green Man,” was situated, +there is a rural aspect and a delightful walk between +trees. It was within the grounds of the “Green Man” +that the Wells of chalybeate water were situated. The +Wells had been discovered in the reign of Charles II., +and the water sold in London, but the “Green Man” +did not become a popular resort until after 1739. A +story connected with this popular spa is recorded in the +“Percy Anecdotes” in 1823. A well-known literary +man was invited to dinner there, and wished to be +directed. However, he inquired vainly for the “Dull +Man at Greenwich,” instead of the “Green Man at +Dulwich.” One of the entrances to the Park is close<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">175</span> +to the site of the once famous Wells. The Park itself, +which covers 72 acres, was the munificent gift of +Dulwich College. The gift was confirmed by an Act +of Parliament in 1885, and the Park opened to the +public in 1890. The College was founded by Edward +Alleyn in 1614, who called it “The College of God’s +Gift.” Originally, there were besides the Master, +Warden, and four Fellows, six poor brethren and six +sisters, and thirty out-members. The value of the +property has so enormously increased that the number +of scholars has been very greatly added to, and now +hundreds of boys, some quite free, and some for a very +low fee, obtain a sound commercial education. The +founder was a friend of Shakespeare, and one of the +best actors of his plays in the poet’s lifetime. His +early biographers go out of their way to refute the +alleged reason of his founding “God’s Gift College,” +namely, that when on one occasion he was personating +the devil, the original appeared, and so frightened him +that he gave up the stage to devote himself to good +works. Were this story true, the vision was certainly +well timed, and has produced unexpected and far-reaching +results. The educational work, the picture gallery, +and the well laid out estate of Dulwich Manor, including +the large public Park, are all the direct result!</p> + +<p>There are a few fine old trees in the Park, particularly +a row of gnarled oaks near the lake. This is a +small sheet of water on the side nearest the College. The +carriage road, which encircles the Park, crosses by a +stone bridge the trickling stream, formed by the overflow +from the lake. On the south-east side of the Park +there are but few trees, but large masses of rhododendrons +and azaleas have been planted, which make a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">176</span> +brilliant show in the summer. The most distinctive +feature is the rock gardening. There is a very large +collection of Alpine and rock plants, which are growing +extremely well and covering the stones with delicious +soft green cushions, which turn to pink, yellow, white, +and purple, as the season advances. Even in the cold, +early spring, snowdrops, and the pretty little Chionodoxa, +the “Glory of the Snow,” begin to peep out amongst +the rocks, and these are the harbingers of a succession +of bloom, through the spring and summer months. On +either side of one of the entrances, a long and pleasing +line of this rock-work extends, but the plants for the most +part are grown on mounds like rocky islands rising up +from a sea of gravel. There are several of these isolated +patches in the middle of the carriage drive. It is certainly +fortunate, for those who only drive round the +Park, thus to have a full view of the charming rock +plants; but to compare such a display to the rock +garden at Kew is misleading. There may be nearly as +many plants at Dulwich as at Kew, but the arrangement +of that charming little retired valley at Kew is +so infinitely superior that the comparison is unjustified. +The small stream which leaves the lake, and other +places in the Park, offer, just as good a foundation for +a really effective rock garden as the one at Kew. Such +an arrangement would give a much better idea of the +plants, in their own homes, than the islands in the +roadway, that must suffer from dust, besides looking +stiff and unnatural. It is, however, delightful to see how +well these plants are thriving. This is hardly astonishing, +as it is not in a crowded, smoky district, but in +one of the most favoured of suburbs. Dulwich Park +adds greatly to the advantages of the neighbourhood:<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">177</span> +it has not hitherto been crowded, and is by no means +a playground of the poorest classes, but now the advent +of electric trams and rapid communication may somewhat +lessen its exclusiveness.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Horniman Gardens</span></h3> + +<p>There are gardens of a very different character round +the Horniman Museum, not far distant. This collection, +as well as the 9¼ acres of ground adjoining it on +Forest Hill, were the gift of the late Mr. J. F. Horniman, +M.P., and the garden, kept up by the London +County Council, was opened in June 1901. The situation +is extremely attractive. A steep walk up an avenue +from London Road, Forest Hill, near Lordship Lane +Station, leads to a villa standing in its own grounds, +which is utilised for refreshment rooms and caretaker’s +house, &c. The lawns descend steeply on three sides, +and on the western slope there is a wide terrace, with +a row of gnarled pollard oaks. From this walk there +is a wide and beautiful view, over the hills and parks, +chimney-pots and steeples of South London, with the +lawns and pond of Horniman Gardens in front. On +this terrace a shelter and band-stand have been put +up, and no more favoured spot for enjoying the open-air +town life, so common on the Continent, but until +lately so rare in England, can well be imagined. The +country round is still fairly open, between Forest Hill +and Brixton. Near the foot of Horniman Gardens lies +Dulwich Park, with the shady path known as “Cox’s +Walk,” from the proprietor of the “Green Man,” and +the roads lined with trees connect Dulwich with Brockwell +Park, Herne Hill, so that this corner of London is +well supplied with trees.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">178</span></p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Deptford Park</span></h3> + +<p>Deptford Park is a complete contrast to the semi-rural +Dulwich. It is in one of the most densely-populated +and poor districts, where it is greatly needed, and has +been open since 1897. The site was market-gardens, +and was sold by the owner, Mr. Evelyn, below its value, +to benefit the neighbourhood. It is merely a square, +flat, open space of 17 acres, with only a few young +trees planted round the outskirts. Near the principal +entrance in Lower Road, the approach is by a short +walk between two walls. Along either side of the pathway, +and for some little distance to the right and left, +after the open space is reached, a nice border of herbaceous +plants has been made along the wall, and a few +beds placed in the grass on either side, and ornamental +trees planted. Thus the entrance to this wide playground +is made cheerful and attractive, and a pleasant +contrast to the grimy streets outside.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Telegraph Hill</span></h3> + +<p>Between these two extremes lies a small Park known +as Telegraph Hill. It is only 9½ acres, and is cut in +two by a road, but it is very varied in surface. The +origin of its name is from its having been a station +for a kind of telegraphy that was invented before the +electric telegraph had been discovered. Two brothers +Chappé invented the system, and were so successful in +telegraphing the news of a victory in 1793, that their +plan was adopted in France, and soon throughout +Europe. In Russia a large sum was expended in +establishing a line of communication between the +German frontier and St. Petersburg; but so slow was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">179</span> +the building that the stations were hardly at work +before they were superseded by electricity. The signals +were made by opening and shutting six shutters, arranged +on two frames on the roofs of a small house, and by +various combinations sixty-three signals could be formed. +The Admiralty established the English line, of this form +of telegraphy between Dover and London in 1795, and +the first public news of the battle of Waterloo actually +reached London by means of the one on “Telegraph +Hill.” The place was well chosen, for even now, all +surrounded by houses, the hill is so steep and conical, that +a very extensive view is still obtained. The site of the +semaphore station is now a level green for lawn tennis. +On the other side of the roadway, the descent is steep into +the valley, and there are two small ponds at the bottom. +The cliffs are covered with turf, interspersed by the usual +meaningless clumps of bushes, and a few nice trees.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Southwark Park</span></h3> + +<p>Southwark Park lies far away from Southwark, beyond +Bermondsey, in Rotherhithe. It was in the parliamentary +borough of Southwark, hence the misleading name. The +Park is a gloomy enough place when compared with the +more distant or West End Parks, but a perfect paradise in +this crowded district. Between its creation in 1864 and +its completion in 1869, a great reformation was worked +in the district. Close to the docks, and intersected by +streams and canals, with the poorest kind of rickety +houses so vividly described by Dickens in “Oliver Twist,” +the surroundings were among the most dismal imaginable. +The actual site of the Park was partly market-gardens, +which had for long been established in this +locality owing to the fertility of the alluvial soil.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">180</span> +Vines were grown here for wine with success in the +first half of the eighteenth century, when there was a +revival in grape-growing, and vineyards were planted +at Hoxton and elsewhere. Over 100 gallons of wine +were made in a year in Rotherhithe. Some of the +earth excavated from the Thames Tunnel was put on the +ground covered by the Park before the laying out commenced. +When the land, 65 acres, was bought, only +45 were to be kept for the Park, and the rest were +reserved for building. But when the day of building +arrived there was such an outcry that the whole plan +was remodelled, the drives which encircled it done away +with, and tar-paved paths substituted, only one driving +road crossing it being left, and the ponds added. It +is more the want of design, than any special style, that is +conspicuous, and a good deal more could have been done +to make the Park less gloomy. An avenue is growing +up, but it will never have the charming effect of the one +across Battersea, as the line is neither straight nor a +definite curve. The wild fowl on the pond are such +an attraction, that perhaps it may be that the wire netting +and asphalt edges they apparently require are not drawbacks, +but they are not beautiful. The gateway into the +Park, near Deptford Station, has rather the grim look of +a prison, and yet, with the forest of masts behind, all it +requires is a climbing plant or two to make a picture. +On the opposite end of the Park runs Jamaica Road, +which perpetuates the name of a well-known Tea Garden, +Jamaica House. Pepys records a visit there, on a Sunday +in April 1667. “Took out my wife, and the two Mercers, +and two of our maids, Barker and Jane, and over the +water to Jamaica House, where I never was before, and +there the girls did run for wagers over the bowling-green;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">181</span> +and there, with much pleasure, spent little and so home.” +Pepys’ home in Seething Lane near the Tower would be +an easy distance from the Tea Gardens of Redriff, as +Rotherhithe was called then, and in the days when Swift +made Gulliver live there. There were other well-known +Tea Gardens near, the “Cherry Garden,” “Half-way +House,” and at a much later date “St. Helena’s Gardens,” +which were only closed in 1881. The disappearance of +all the Tea Gardens and open spaces made the necessity +of a Park very obvious, and it was to meet this want that +Southwark Park was made.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Maryon Park</span></h3> + +<p>There is one more small Park to complete the line of +South London Parks, for which the public is indebted to +Sir Spencer Maryon-Wilson, the lord of the manor of +Charlton, in which parish it is situated. It lies between +Greenwich and Woolwich, and the South-Eastern Railway +skirts the northern side. The ground was chiefly large +gravel pits, and has a hill in the middle partly caused by +the excavations. This hill has some pretty brushwood +still growing on its slope, showing it was once joined to +Hanging Wood, a well-known hiding-place of highwaymen. +It was conveniently thick, and there are many tales +of pursuit from Blackheath which ended by losing the +thieves in Hanging Wood. The hill in the Park is +locally known as Cox’s Mount, having been rented by +an inhabitant of that name in 1838, who built a summer-house +there and planted poplars. The area of the Park +is about 12 acres, and except for one or two trees on the +Mount and patches of brushwood, it is open grass. The +boys on the <i>Warspite</i> training ship anchored near are +allowed to play cricket there, provision for this having<span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">182</span> +been made by the generous donor of the Park in the +deed of gift to the London County Council in 1891.</p> + +<p>Quite outside these crowded districts, yet within the +County of London, lie three more Parks maintained by +the County Council. The one nearest the heart of +London is Manor Park, or Manor House Gardens, between +the High Road, Lee, and Hither Green Station, +opened in 1902. There are 8¾ acres here attached to the +Lee Manor House, a substantial building in the Adams +style, now used as the Public Library. The Gardens slope +gently away from the house to a large pond—or lake as +the Council would prefer to call it—and beyond to a +rapid little stream, the Quaggy, a tributary of the +Ravensbourne. Beyond the Quaggy’s steep banks, well +protected by spiked railings, is a flat green devoted to +games. The chief beauty of this little Park is four +magnificent old elms and a few other good trees—beech, +chestnut, <i class="flora" lang="la">Robinia speudo acacia</i>, &c. In the +spring of 1907 the pond was in process of cleaning, so +no rooks had ventured to build within the Park, but +just at the gates a large elm in a small garden had been +favoured by these capricious birds, and their hoarse voices +were making a deliciously countrified sound.</p> + +<p>The other London County Council Parks are in what is +still nearly open country, although rows of villas are being +rather rapidly reared in the district. Eltham is one of +these. It is at present not enclosed with massive iron +railings, but the wide, flat stretch of smooth turf, studded +with patriarchal trees, is left untouched, except that a few +spaces have been levelled for games. This Park of 41 +acres was bought in 1902, the Borough of Woolwich paying +half the cost of purchase—£9600—with the Council.</p> + +<p>Still further into the country is Avery Hill, with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">183</span> +the large house and grounds, extending over 84 acres, +built and laid out by Colonel J. T. North. The London +County Council were offered this estate in 1902, if purchased +within a certain limit of time, for £25,000. +Usually the Council, in making a purchase, have ascertained +beforehand what contributions the local Boroughs +were prepared to subscribe towards the total cost, but, +on this occasion, the Boroughs were invited to share the +expense after the purchase had been made, with the result +that all those concerned—Camberwell, Lewisham, +Greenwich, Deptford, and Woolwich—refused; so the +whole of the purchase and upkeep devolved on the +London County Council. The large mansion is now +used as a teachers’ training college for girls, but the +greater part of the grounds, and the immense winter +gardens are open to the public. It is still so far from +the centres of population that the public who make use +of these spacious gardens is very limited. The nearest +railway station, New Eltham, is three-quarters of a mile +distant from the Park, and half-an-hour or more by train +from Charing Cross. Although it is now so far into the +country, and some people would deprecate the purchase, +it is only fair to remember that most of the crowded +districts were also country not long ago, and that when +land is dear and houses being built is not a favourable +moment to purchase. As a rule it is want of foresight +that is the complaint, and not excess of zeal, as in this +case. The garden is made use of to furnish supplies +of plants to some of the smaller parks, and a portion is +being reserved for growing specimens for demonstration +in the Council Schools. On the west side of the house +there are three terraced gardens, prettily planted with +roses and fruit-trees. In front of the house a sloping<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">184</span> +lawn, with a few large beds, touches the park-like +meadows studded with trees. Sheep feeding with their +tinkling bells gives a rural appearance. To the large, +modern, very red brick house is attached a huge winter +garden. This is on a very large scale, with lofty palms, +date, dom, and cocoa-nut growing with tropical luxuriance +in the central house, with a large camellia house on +one side and a fernery with rock-work, pools, and goldfish +on the other. All this requires a good deal of +keeping up—nearly £3000 a year—and although it has +been open now some five years, it has been enjoyed by +few. It is greatly to be hoped that it has a much-appreciated +future before it.</p> + +<p>Such is a slight sketch of some of London’s Parks. +No doubt there is much that could be changed for the +better, both in design and planting: less sameness and +meaningless formality without true lines of beauty in +design would be an improvement. In planting, there +might be more variety of British trees—alder, oak, ash, +and hawthorn; and a wider range of foreign ones—limes, +American or Turkey oaks, and many others; more +climbing plants, such as Virginian creepers, more simple +herbaceous borders and fewer clumps of unattractive +bushes, and more lilacs, laburnums, thorns, almonds, +cherries, and medlars in groups on the grass. If greater +originality was displayed and a thorough knowledge of +horticulture were shown, especially by the authorities +that supervise the largest number of these parks, many +improvements in existing ones could be easily achieved, +and in forming new parks the same idea need not be so +rigidly followed. But, in spite of small defects, the +Parks as a whole are extremely beautiful, and Londoners +may well be proud of them.</p> +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">185</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VIII"><span id="toclink_185"></span><span class="gesperrt">CHAPTER VIII</span><br> + +<span class="subhead">COMMONS AND OPEN SPACES</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>’Tis very bad in man or woman</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>To steal a goose from off the common,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>But who shall plead that man’s excuse</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Who steals the common from the goose?</i></div> + </div> + <div class="attrib">—<span class="smcap">An Old Ditty.</span></div> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="idc idcI"><img src="images/i_idc_i.png" width="178" height="182" alt="I"> +<span class="firstword">It</span> was only fifty years ago, when the +want of fresh air and room for +recreation was being realised, that +people began to wake up to the +truth that there were already great +open spaces in London which ought +to be cared for and preserved. It +was brought home by the fact that +over £1000 an acre was being paid to purchase market-gardens +or fields so as to transform them into parks, +while at the same time land which already belonged to +the people was being recklessly sold away and built over. +All through the history of most of the common lands +encroachments of a more or less serious nature are recorded +from time to time. The exercise of common +rights also was often so unrestrained as to inflict permanent +injury on the commons. The digging for gravel was +frequently carried to excess, whins and brushwood were +cut, and grass over-grazed until nothing remained. At +last, in 1865, a Commons Preservation Society was formed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">186</span> +with the view of arousing public attention to the subject. +As is often the case, some people ran to the opposite +extreme, and wished to transform the commons into +parks without giving compensation to the freeholders +and copyhold tenants, who thereby would lose considerable +benefits. In some cases after the Metropolitan +Commons Act of 1866 was passed, the Lord of the +Manor, on behalf of all the freeholders, disputed the +right of the Metropolitan Board of Works to take +the land without compensation to the owners. The +lord of the manor was considered unreasonable by some +of the agitators for the transference of the common lands +to public bodies, but he was fighting the battle of all the +small owners. The freeholders in some cases were as +many as fifty for some 40 acres. Many of the commons +were Lammas Lands. The freeholders, of which there +were a large number, had the use of the land from the +6th of April until the 12th of August, and the copyhold +tenants of the manor had the right of grazing during +the remainder of the year. The number of cattle each +could graze was determined by the amount of rent they +paid, and the grazing was regulated by the “marsh +drivers,” men elected annually by the courts of the +Manor for the purpose. A curious incident in connection +with these rights happened on Hackney Downs in +1837. The season was late, and the steward of the +Manor put up a notice to the effect that as the freeholders’ +crops were not gathered the grazing on the +Downs could not begin until the 25th, instead of the +usual 12th of August. The marshes and other common +lands in the parish were open, so there was actually plenty +of pasture available for those entitled to it. There was a +fine crop of wheat on some plots on the Downs, and on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">187</span> +the morning of Monday the 14th August, “a few persons +made their appearance and began to help themselves to +the corn.” Summoned before the magistrates, the bench +decided that after the usual opening day the corn “was +common property, and could be claimed by no one +parishioner more than another.” On the strength of this +decision the whole parish turned out, and a terrible scene +of looting the crop took place, while the poor owners +vainly tried to save what they could. The freeholder +with the most wheat, a Mr. Adamson, lost over £100 +worth, although he worked all night to save what he +could. A case followed, as Mr. Adamson prosecuted +Thomas Wright, one of the many looters who thought +they had a right to it, for stealing his wheat. This time +the magistrates fined the man twenty shillings, and half-a-crown, +the value of the wheat he had actually taken, +as he had no right to take away the crop, although he +had a right to put cattle on the Downs. Further trials +for riot before the Court of Queen’s Bench resulted in +the prisoners being discharged after they had pleaded +guilty. It appeared both the looters and Mr. Adamson +were in the wrong. They had no right to remove the +corn, neither had he, after the 12th August, and those +who had grazing rights could have turned on their +cattle to eat the standing corn. This incident just +shows how the right of freeholders and copyholders +could not lightly be trifled with.</p> + +<p>The report of the Select Committee on Open Spaces +in 1865 pointed out in the same way, that although the +right to these common lands had been enjoyed from time +immemorial, the rights were vague as far as the public +at large were concerned. They were probably limited to +a certain defined area or body of persons, as the inhabitants<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">188</span> +of a parish, and it was doubtful if the custom +would hold good at law for such a large place as +London. Thousands of people from all parts of London +trampling over a common was a very different thing to +the free use of it by the parishioners. This report led to +the passing of the Metropolitan Commons Act of 1866. +Both before and after this Act there were several others +for the maintenance and regulation of the commons and +all the parks, gardens, and open spaces too numerous to +mention.<a id="FNanchor_9" href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">9</a></p> + +<p>Under the present system most of the metropolitan +commons and heaths are in the hands of the County +Council, and in some cases considerable sums have been +spent on them. Among the smaller ones is London +Fields, Hackney, the nearest open space to the city. +This was in a very untidy state when first taken in hand +after 1866. The grass was worn away, and it was the +scene of a kind of fair, and the resort of all the worst +characters in the neighbourhood. It used to be known +as Shoulder of Mutton Fields, and the name survives in +a “Cat and Mutton” public-house on the site of a +tavern which gave its name to the fields. It was in the +eighteenth century a well-known haunt of robbers and +footpads, and in spite of a watch-house and special +guard robberies were frequent. The watch must have +been rather slack, as about 1732 a Mr. Baxter was robbed +about five in the morning “by two fellows, who started +out on him from behind the Watch-House in the +Shoulder of Mutton Fields.” Hackney is rich in open +spaces, as besides London Fields there is Hackney or +Well Street Common, near Victoria Park, Mill Fields, +Stoke Newington and Clapton Commons, Hackney Downs<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">189</span> +(over 40 acres) on the north, and Hackney Marshes +(337 acres) on the east. These were Lammas Lands, and +the marshes were used for grazing until within the last +few years, when the rights were bought up and the land +finally thrown open to the public in 1894. The river +Lea skirts the marsh, and used not unfrequently to +flood, doing considerable damage. The London County +Council have made four cuts across the bends of the +river, forming islands. The water now can more easily +flow in a wet season, and the periodical inundations no +longer occur. The planting of these islands has not +been carried out at all satisfactorily. An utter want +of appreciation of the habits of plants or the localities +suited to them has been shown. A stiff row of the +large saxifrage, <i class="flora" lang="la">S. cordifolia</i>, charming in a rock garden +or mixed border, has been put round the water’s +edge, and behind it, berberis, laurels, and a few flowering +bushes suited to a villa garden shrubbery. The +opportunity for a really pleasing effect has thus been +missed, and money wasted. A few willows and alders, +with groups of iris and common yellow flags, and free +growing willow herb, and purple loosestrife, would soon, +for much less expense, have made the islands worthy of +a visit from an artist. Instead, an eyesore to every +tasteful gardener and lover of nature has been produced. +The beauty of the marsh has always been appreciated by +the dwellers in Hackney and Clapton. The view over +the fertile fields from the high land was one of the attractions +since the time when Pepys wrote, “I every day +grow more and more in love with” Hackney.</p> + +<p>Hackney Downs now form a large open area for +recreation, but they were fruitful fields sixty years ago. +An engraving, from a drawing by W. Walker, dated<span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">190</span> +1814, represents a “Harvest Scene, Hackney Downs, +with a View of the Old Tower, and Part of the Town +of Hackney,” and gives a delightful picture of harvesters +reaping with sickles, and binding up sheaves of +the tall, thick-growing corn. That some of the Downs +were arable land was a grievance to those who had +grazing rights, and there was a considerable agitation +to get the freeholders to lay it all down in +grass, after the incident of looting the corn in 1837, +already referred to. The Downs continued rural within +the memory of many still living. The Lord of the +Manor remembers that an inhabitant stated that she had, +whilst walking across the Downs, startled a wild hare +from her form. This would be about the year 1845, +and for ten or twelve years later there were partridges +in the larger fields of turnip and mangold-wurzel which +adjoined the Downs. The rural character has quite +changed, and now the Downs are a large open space, with +young trees growing up to supply shade along the roads +which encircle the wide grassy area.</p> + +<p>Highbury Fields, although much smaller than +Hackney Downs, being only 27 instead of 41 acres, play +as important a part in the north of London, as the +Downs do in the north-east. They are not, however, +Common Lands, but until recently were actually fields +with sheep grazing in them. Tradition points to Highbury +Fields as the site of the Roman encampment during +the final struggle with Boadicea. In the Middle Ages +they belonged to the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, +and there the rebels of the Wat Tyler rising, headed by +Jack Straw, camped after leaving Hampstead. There +are a few old trees still standing in the Fields, which +were formerly within the grounds of two detached residences,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">191</span> +one of them the Manor House. An old “moated +grange,” or barn, belonging to the ancient Priory, gives +its name to the public-house, Highbury Barn, the goal of +motor omnibuses. The moat was only filled up fifty +years ago, and the old buildings pulled down, after enjoying +some notoriety as a Tea Garden for over a century. +A part of the present Fields was called “the Reedmote,” +or “Six Acre Field,” and is also shown on old +maps as “Mother Field.” When Islington Spa was a +fashionable resort, and Sadler’s Wells at the height of its +prosperity, the houses facing the Fields were built. On +the north-west the row is inscribed in large letters, +“Highbury Terrace, 1789,” and this, according to old +guide-books, “commands a beautiful prospect.” On the +east lies another substantial row of eighteenth-century +mansions, and the inhabitants are proud to point out to +strangers No. 25 Highbury Place as the house in which +Mr. Chamberlain lived, from the age of nine until he was +eighteen, when he went to live in Birmingham. His +present home, now so well known, was built in 1879, +and was named in remembrance of Highbury Place. In +the early years of the nineteenth century several well-known +people were living in these houses. John Nichols, +the biographer of Hogarth, who was for fifty years editor +of the <i>Gentleman’s Magazine</i>, died there in 1826. A few +years later a historian of Islington describes Highbury +Place as “thirty-nine houses built on a large scale, but +varying in size, all having good gardens, and some of +them allotments of meadow land in the front and rear. +The road is private, and is frequented only by the carriages +passing to and from the several dwellings situated +between the village and Highbury House.” This description +draws a very rural picture, of which nothing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">192</span> +now remains but the name. The Fields were turned +into a public Park in 1885, and now consist of wide +open spaces for games, with intersecting paths well +planted with limes, elms, chestnuts, and planes, and an +abundance of seats. Near the point where Upper Street, +Islington ends and Holloway Road joins it, a memorial +to the soldiers and volunteers of Islington who fell in +the Boer War has been erected, and the figure of Victory +stands conspicuously facing the approach from the city.</p> + +<p>By far the most beautiful and the most frequented +of all London Commons is Hampstead Heath. The +original Heath measured 240 acres, but, with the addition +of Parliament Hill, there are now over 500 acres of wild +open country for ever preserved for the benefit of Londoners. +’Appy ’Ampstead, the resort not only of ’Arrys +and ’Arriets, but poets, artists, and people of every rank +in life, is too well known to demand description. The +view from it seems more beautiful every time the occasional +visitor ascends the hill, and gazes down on London +and away over the lovely country of the Thames valley. +The County Council, the present holders of this public +trust, have mercifully refrained from turning it into a +park—the original intention of those who first wished to +preserve it. The bracken still flourishes, the gorse still +blooms, and there is yet a wild freshness about it that +has not been “improved” away.</p> + +<p>Hampstead has had periods of fashion as a residence. +In the eighteenth century it is described as “a village in +Middlesex, on the declivity of a fine hill, 4 miles from +London. On the summit of this hill is a heath, adorned +with many gentlemen’s houses.... The water of the +[Hampstead] Wells is equal in efficacy to that of Tunbridge, +and superior to that of Islington.” These Wells<span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">193</span> +appear to have first attracted notice in the time of +Charles II. In 1698, Susanna Noel and her son, third +Earl of Gainsborough (then the owner of the soil), gave +the Well, with six acres of ground, to the poor of +Hampstead. For more than thirty years the Wells, +with all the attendant attractions of the pump-room, +with balls and music, drew the fashionable world up to +Hampstead. It was said to be “much more frequented +by good company than can well be expected, considering +its vicinity to London; but such care has been taken to +discourage the meaner sort from making it a place of +residence, that it is now become ... one of the Politest +Public Places in England.” Here Fanny Burney made +her heroine, Evelina, attend dances, and it plays a part +in the fortunes of Richardson’s Clarissa Harlowe; and +here all the wits and poets of the time mingled in the +gay throng. Many have been the celebrated residents +in Hampstead—Lord Chatham, Dr. Johnson, Crabbe, +Steele, Gay, Keats, William Blake, Leigh Hunt, Romney +and Constable, John Linnell, and David Wilkie among +the number. The site of the pump-room is all built +over, but some fine old elm trees in Well Walk, still have +an air of romance and faded glory about them. The +houses near the Heath—such as Shelford, afterwards +Rosslyn House, with a celebrated avenue of Spanish +chestnuts, The Grove, Belsize Park, the residence of Lord +Wotton, and then of Philip, Earl of Chesterfield—have +all been consumed by the inroads of bricks and mortar. +It is more than likely that the Heath would have shared +the same fate, had not the inhabitants taken active steps +to arouse public attention to preserve this wild heath, +unequalled near any great city. Already aggressive red +villas were making their appearance in far too great<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">194</span> +numbers. The western side was dotted over with them. +That the purchase of it for the public benefit has been +appreciated it is not difficult to prove, when over 100,000 +visit it on a Bank Holiday. It was the commencement of +building operations near the Flagstaff by the lord of the +manor, Sir Thomas Maryon Wilson, in the heart of the +Heath, that brought things to a crisis in 1866. A case +began against the lord of the manor, but he died before +it was ended, and his brother, Sir John, being willing to +compromise, the sum of £47,000 was agreed on for the +sale of the Heath to the Metropolitan Board of Works. +The few houses dotted about on the Heath are those of +squatters, who have established their right by the length +of time they have been in possession. The small hamlet +or collection of houses in the “Vale of Health,” those +near the “Spaniards” and round Jack Straw’s Castle, +have existed from time immemorial, although few old +houses of interest remain, and large, unsightly buildings +have taken the place of the picturesque ones. In the +Vale of Health the houses are chiefly given up to catering +for holiday-makers. The “Spaniards,” at the most +northerly point of the Heath, is a genuine old house, +and it still has a nice garden, although all the alleys +and fantastic ornaments which made it popular, in the +eighteenth century, have vanished. The name came from +the fact that the first owner was a Spaniard. The next +proprietor was a Mr. Staples, who “improved and beautifully +ornamented it.” The house was on the site of the +toll-gate and lodge to Caen Wood, and its position saved +that house from destruction, at the time of the Gordon +riots. The rioters had burnt and wantonly destroyed +Lord Mansfield’s house in Bloomsbury Square. Maddened +with drink, and flushed with triumph at the success<span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">195</span> +of their outrages, they made a bonfire in the square of +the invaluable books collected by Lord Mansfield. Their +temper may be imagined as they marched by Hampstead +to commit the same violence at Caen Wood, Lord Mansfield’s +country house. The proprietor of the “Spaniards” +invited them in, and threw open his cellars to the mob. +Fresh barrels of drink were sent down from Caen Wood, +and meanwhile messengers were despatched for soldiers; +so that by the time all the liquor had been consumed, and +the drunken rioters began to proceed, they were confronted +by a troop of Horse Guards, who, in their addled condition, +soon put them all to flight. The name of the +other inn on Hampstead Heath, which stands conspicuously +on the highest point, 443 feet above the sea, +is Jack Straw’s Castle, and has also some connection with +a riot. Jack Straw was one of the leaders in the Wat +Tyler rebellion, and after burning the Priory of St. John +of Jerusalem, he came up to Hampstead and Highgate, +though there is no direct evidence to connect him, in +1381, with any tavern on the spot on which the inn +stands. The addition of Castle to the name is from +the fact, that there was some sort of fortress or earthworks +on this commanding point. The inn on the +site was known as the Castle Inn, and not until 1822 +is there any mention of it as Jack Straw’s Castle. The +wood of the gallows on which a famous highwayman +was hung behind the house in 1673 was built into +the wall. Jack Straw’s Castle is now quite modernised, +but the view from it, on all sides, is still as lovely as +ever. The Whitestone Pond in front is really a +reservoir, and to the south of that lies the Grove, with +fine trees and some old-fashioned houses. The most +picturesque walk is that known as the Judges’ or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">196</span> +King’s Bench Walk, from a tradition that justice was +administered under the trees there, when the judges +fled from London at the time of the Great Plague. +This walk is on the south-west side of the Heath, +the Well Walk on the south-east. To the east of +the highest point with Jack Straw’s Castle and the +road which runs northwards towards the “Spaniards” +is the Vale of Health, and below are a series of +ponds. Hampstead has always furnished a water-supply +for the city at its feet. When more water +was required, in the sixteenth century, the Lord Mayor +proposed to utilise the springs there, and convey the +water to London by conduits. A pound of pepper +at the Feast of St. Michael annually to the “Bishop +of Westminster,” was the tribute for the use of the +water, as the land belonged to the Abbey of Westminster, +having been granted to it by King Ethelred +in 986. The managers of water-supply in 1692 were +a company known as the Hampstead Water Company, +which became absorbed in the New River Company. +The lakes are very deep, and dangerous for boating, +bathing, and skating, although used for all those +purposes.</p> + +<p>The hill which rises beyond the ponds and stretches +away to the east, is part of the land adjoining the true +Heath, which was bought in 1887, so as to double +the area of open country, and prevent that side of +the Heath being overlooked by houses. The character +is quite a contrast, and lacks the wildness, but it is +pretty, park-like scenery, and Hampstead Heath would +have been greatly spoilt had this further wide space +of pasture land not been saved. The first hill to +the east of the Heath is crowned by a mound or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">197</span> +tumulus, which was opened a few years ago; the +investigations leading scientists to believe that it was +a British burial-place of the bronze age. This used to +be very picturesque with a group of Scotch firs—now, +alas! all dead. The next hill is Parliament or Traitor’s +Hill, and there is no very definite solution of the +name. It may have been a meeting-place of the +British “Moot” or Parliament, or the origin may +only be traced to Cromwell’s time. As if to encourage +the tradition being kept up, a stone suggests that +meetings may take place within 50 yards of the spot +by daylight. Below the hill are flat meadows by Gospel +Oak, said to be so named from its being a parish +boundary, and the Gospel was read under the tree +to impress the parishioners, with the same object as +the other and more familiar form of beating the +bounds. These Gospel Oak fields are the typical +London County Council greens for games, so gradually, +after leaving the summit of the Heath, the descent is +made, from the artistic and picturesque, to the practical +and prosaic.</p> + +<p>Hampstead was always famous for its wild flowers. +The older botanists roamed there in search of rare +plants, and the frequent references in their works, +especially in Gerard’s “Herbal,” show how often +they were successful. Osmundas, or royal ferns, +sundew or drosera, and the bog bean grew in the +damp places, and lilies of the valley were among the +familiar flowers. As late as 1838 a work on London +Flora enumerates 290 genera, and no less than 650 +species, as found round about the Heath. The soil, the +aspect, the situation, are all propitious. Even now it is +so far above the densest smoke-fogs that much might<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">198</span> +be done to encourage the growth of wild flowers. +It is true notice-boards forbid the plucking of them, +and that is a great step in advance—but the sowing +of a few species, which have become extinct, would add +greatly to the charm of the place. It is also still +the favourite haunt of wild birds, and the more the +true wildness is encouraged, the more likely they are +to frequent it. It is much to be hoped that the +London County Council will refrain in their planting, +from anything but native trees and bushes which look +at home, and which would attract our native songsters. +Within the last ten or twelve years a very great variety +of birds have been recorded either as nesting there +or as visitors. The following list (taken from “Birds +in London” by W. H. Hudson, 1898) may interest +bird <span class="locked">lovers:—</span></p> + +<p>Wryneck, cuckoo, blackcap, grasshopper, sedge, +reed and garden warblers, both white-throats, wood +and willow wrens, chiff-chaff, redstart, stonechat, pied +wagtail, tree pipit, red-backed shrike, spotted fly-catcher, +swallow, house martin, swift, goldfinch, wheat-ears +in passage, fieldfare in winter, occasionally redwings, +also redpoles, siskin, and grey wagtail.</p> + +<p>This list is certainly a revelation to those who only +associate dusty sparrows and greedy wood-pigeons with the +ornithology of London. No better testimony is wanted to +prove that Hampstead is still the beautiful wild Heath +that has given pleasure to so many generations.</p> + +<p>The only other large space of common land, north of +the river within the London area, is Wormwood Scrubs, +of very different appearance and associations from Hampstead. +The manorial and common rights were purchased +by the War Office, and the ground made over to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">199</span> +the Metropolitan Board of Works in 1879, with reservations +for the rifle range and military exercises. +The space is altogether over 200 acres. The ground +in ancient times was a wood, adjoining “Old Oak +Common,” just beyond the London boundary, which +was covered with patriarchal oaks. The last was felled +in 1830. The ground, being flat, is admirably suited for +the War Office purposes; it has gone through a process +of draining, and the only part not downtrodden by +soldiers has been “improved” by the London County +Council, so there is little wildness or attraction in the +place. The presence of a prison, erected in 1874, still +further diminishes its charm as an open space.</p> + +<p>This completes the open large spaces on the north; +the south of the river is even richer in commons. One +of the most thoroughly rural spots within the London +area is Bostall Wood. There is nothing to spoil the +illusion, and for quite a considerable walk it would be +easy to imagine that a journey on the magic horse of the +“Arabian Nights” had been taken to some distant forest +land, to forget that the roar of the town was barely out +of one’s ears, and that ten minutes’ walk would take one, +out of the enchanted land, back to suburban villas and +electric trams.</p> + +<p>Beyond the inevitable band-stand, which attracts +thousands on a summer Sunday evening, there is nothing +to jar, and spoil the illusion of real country. The woods, +and Bostall Heath which adjoins them, can be reached +from Plumstead or Abbey Wood Station, in twenty +minutes’ walk up the steep hill. Pine woods crest the +summit, and below them stretches a delightful thicket, +chiefly of oaks and sweet chestnut, with an undergrowth +of holly and a pleasant tangle of bracken and bramble,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">200</span> +where the blackbirds, chaffinches, and robins call to each +other and flit across the path. Steep slopes, and valleys, +and hollows clothed with trees, give possibilities of real +rambles, in a truly sylvan scene. Under the pines, which +are tall enough to produce that soothing, soughing sound +even in the most gentle breeze, the carpet of pine needles +is cushioned here and there with patches of vivid green +moss where the moisture has penetrated. Beyond the +Wood lies the Heath, studded with birch trees, among +gorse and bracken. There are narrow gullies and glades, +like miniature “gates” or “gwyles” of the sea coast, and +at the foot of the Heath lie the marshes, often in the +soft light as blue as the sea, and the silver Thames, a +bright streak across the picture, chequered with the red +sails of the barges, and tall masts of the more stately ships.</p> + +<p>The whole area of woods and common is only about +133 acres, but the varied surface, and the distant views +from it, make it appear of larger extent. It is little +known to most Londoners, although the Heath was purchased +as far back as 1877, and the Wood bought by the +London County Council in 1891. The place, however, is +much frequented and duly appreciated by the neighbouring +population. This peaceful country-side could be +reached within an hour, from any point in the City. It is +attractive at all times of the year, especially in spring, +when the green is pale and the young brackens, soft and +downy, are uncurling their fronds, and the dark firs stand +up in sharp contrast to the tender greens. Or, perhaps, +still more delightful is it in autumn, when</p> + +<p class="center"> +“Red o’er the forest gleams the setting sun,” +</p> + +<p class="in0">and the oaks have turned a rich russet, and the birches, +of brilliant yellow, shower their tiny leaves on the mossy<span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">201</span> +earth, like the golden showers which fell on Danaë in her +prison.</p> + +<p>The attractive wood-clad hills of Bostall are the +most remote of all London’s open spaces. They lie the +furthest east on the fringe of the suburbs. From Bostall +westward roofs and chimney-pots become continuous—Woolwich, +Greenwich, Deptford, Bermondsey, Southwark +getting more and more densely crowded. But +westward also begins the chain of commons which circle +the town round the southern border—with breaks, it is +true, yet so nearly continuous that from the highest +point of one, the view almost ranges on to the next.</p> + +<p>Only a deep valley, with Wickham Lane on the track +of a Roman road, divides Bostall Wood from Plumstead +Common. This is open and breezy, standing high +above what was in ancient times the marsh overflowed by +the Thames. The greater part is, however, used by the +military, and the trample of horse artillery makes it look +like a desert. It is a curious effect to see this part of +the Common in winter. It has probably been used for +manœuvring all the week, and by Saturday afternoon +there are pools of mud, and ruts, and furrows, and hoofmarks +all over it. On this dreary waste hundreds of +boys and young men, sorted according to age, play more +or less serious football matches. The coats of the +players, in four little heaps, do duty for goal-posts, +and these are so thickly strewn over the surface, and +the players so closely mingled, that the effect is like +bands of savages fighting among their slain—the ancient +barrow in the centre of the ground gives colour to the +supposition.</p> + +<p>A sudden deep valley, called “the Slade,” cuts the +Common in two. In the hollow there are ponds, and on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">202</span> +the high ground beyond stood a windmill, the remains of +which are embedded in the Windmill Tavern.</p> + +<p>The next common west of Plumstead, is Woolwich, +maintained by the War Office and given up to military +exercises. The extent is 159 acres. It is so much +absorbed by the requirements of the War Office that it +cannot be classed among London’s playgrounds.</p> + +<p>Going westward, the next large space is Blackheath, +whose history is wrapped up with that of Greenwich, +the beautiful Greenwich Park having once been part of +the Heath. It is high ground, for the most part bare of +trees, and with roads intersecting it—one of them, the +old Roman Watling Street. The wild, bare summit of +the Heath was a dangerous place for travellers, and many +was the highway robbery committed there in times past. +It is of very large extent, some 267 acres, and has been +effectually preserved for public use, for some thirty-five +years, since early in the Seventies.</p> + +<p>The Heath has played its part in history—gay scenes, +such as when the Mayor and aldermen of London flocked, +with a great assemblage, to welcome Henry V. after the +battle of Agincourt, or more ominous and hostile demonstrations, +as when Wat Tyler collected his followers +there, or when Jack Cade, some seventy years later, did +the same thing. A few fine old eighteenth-century houses +still stand on the edge of the Heath, and an avenue, +“Chesterfield Walk,” perpetuates the name of one of +the distinguished residents. Morden College, at the +south-east corner of the Heath, is a fine old building +of Wren’s design, founded by Sir John Morden, for +merchants trading with the East who, through unforeseen +accidents, had lost their fortunes.</p> + +<p>To the west of Blackheath there was once a Deptford<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">203</span> +Common, but it has long since been built over, and, +with the exception of the small Deptford Park, there is +a large district of dense population without any open +space. The nearest is Hilly Fields on the south. This +is a steep, conical hill, with little beauty to recommend +it, except its breezy height, and views over chimney-pots +to the Crystal Palace. A large, bleak-looking building, +with a small enclosure on the highest point—at present +for sale—marked the West Kent Grammer School, +does not improve the appearance of this open space. +There are some 45 acres of turf, and a line of old +elms and another of twisted thorns show that there were +once hedgerows. There is some promiscuous planting +of young trees, and iron railings, and of course a band-stand; +otherwise no particular “beautifying” has been +attempted since it was opened to the public in 1896.</p> + +<p>In the valley of the Ravensbourne, below the hill +stretches the long, narrow strip of the Ladywell Recreation +Ground. It lies on either bank of the stream +between Ladywell and Catford Bridge stations. It is +intersected by railways, and the pathway passes sometimes +over, sometimes under the lines, and constant trains +whizz by. But in spite of such drawbacks, the place +has a special attraction in the stream which meanders +through the patches of grass devoted to games. Where +the stream has been untouched, and allowed to continue +its course unmolested between iron railings, even the railings +cannot destroy a certain rural aspect it has retained. +Alders and elms, with gnarled and twisted roots, lean +over the banks, and hawthorns dip down towards the +rather swiftly flowing water. When the land was bought +for public use in 1889 the stream frequently overflowed +its sandy banks, and one or two necessary cuttings were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">204</span> +made across some of the sharpest curves, to allow a better +flow of water. This has stopped all the objectionable +flooding, but the melancholy part is that, having been +obliged to make these imperative but necessarily artificial +cuttings, the London County Council did not plant them +with alders, thorns, and willows, like the pretty, natural +stream; but instead, the islands thus formed, and the +banks, were dotted about with box and aucuba bushes. +The babbling stream seems to jeer at these poor sickly +little black bushes, as if to say, “What is the good of +bravely playing at being in the country, and trying to +make believe trout may jump from my ripples and water-ousels +pop in and out of my banks, if you dreadful +Cockneys disfigure me like that?” Very likely it does +not jar on the feelings of the inhabitants of Lewisham +or Catford, but when public money is spent by way of +improvement, it is cruel to mar and deform instead. +Where the churchyard of St. Mary’s, Lewisham, touches +the stream is a pretty spot, but, in places, untidy little +back-gardens are the only adornment; but that is not +the fault of the London County Council.</p> + +<p>Peckham Rye Common is more or less flat, without +any special feature of interest, except at the southern +end, which has been converted into a Park. The Rye—what +a quaint name it is! and there is no very satisfactory +derivation. It may either come from a stream of that +name, long since disappeared, or from a Celtic word, +<em>rhyn</em>, a projecting piece of land—Peckham Rye, the village +on the spur of the hill, now known as Forest Hill and +Honor Oak. This “Rye” has been a place of recreation +from time immemorial, and at one time must +have extended so as to embrace the smaller patches of +common known as Nunhead Green (now black asphalt),<span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">205</span> +and Goose Green. The Common was secured by purchase +from further encroachments in 1882.</p> + +<p>The Park has much that savours of the country. An +enclosure within it, is not open to the public, and for that +very reason is one of the most rural spots. There is a +delightful public road across it, known as “the Avenue.” +The old trees form an archway overhead, and on either +side of the fence the wood is like a covert somewhere +miles from London; brambles and fern and brushwood +make shelter for pheasants, and squirrels run up the +trees. The farm-house, and its out-buildings with +their moss-grown tiled roofs, have nothing suburban +about them. The front facing the Rye Common has a +notice to say it is the Friern Manor Dairy, but even that +is not aggressive, as the name carries back the history +to the time of Henry I., when the manor was granted to +the Earl of Gloucester, and on till it was given by his +descendants to the Priory of Halliwell, which held it +until the church property was taken by Henry VIII. and +granted to Robert Draper, and so on till modern days. +There is, besides this attractive farm, a regular piece of +laid-out garden, and a pond and well-planted flower-beds; +but the little walk among trees, beside a streamlet which +has been formed into small cascades, and crossed by rustic +bridges, is a more original conception, and is decidedly a +success, and a good imitation of a woodland scene. The +contrast is all the greater as Peckham is so eminently +prosaic, busy, and unpicturesque; the old houses having +for the most part given place to modern suburban +edifices.</p> + +<p>Due west of Peckham lies Clapham, the largest of +the South London Commons, 220 acres in extent; +although, being flat and compact in shape, it does not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">206</span> +appear larger than Tooting, which is really only 10 acres +less, but of more rambling shape. The Common has +suffered much less than most of its neighbours from +enclosures. It was shared between two manors, Battersea +and Clapham, and the rival lords and commonalities, each +jealous of their own special rights, were more careful to +prevent encroachments than was often the case. At one +time Battersea went so far as to dig a great ditch to +prevent the cattle of the Clapham people coming into +its part of the ground. The other parish resisted and +filled up the ditch, and was sued for trespass by Battersea, +which, however, lost its case—this ended in 1718. The +Common has an air of dignified respectability, and is still +surrounded with some solid old-fashioned houses, although +modern innovations have destroyed a great number of +them. A nice old buttressed wall, over which ilex trees +show their heads, and suggest possibilities of a shady +lawn, carries one back to the time when Pepys retired +to Clapham to “a very noble house and sweete place, +where he enjoyed the fruite of his labour in great +prosperity”; or to the days when Wilberforce lived +there, and he, together with the other workers in the +same cause, Clarkson, Granville Sharp, and Zachary +Macaulay, used to meet at the house of John Thornton +by the Common.</p> + +<p>There is nothing wild now about the Common, and +the numbers of paths which intersect it are edged by high +iron railings, to prevent the entire wearing away of the +grass. The beauty of the ground is its trees. They +proclaim it to be an old and honoured open space, and +not a modern creation. Only one tree has any pretentions +to historical interest, having been planted by the eldest son +of Captain Cook the explorer, but only a stump remains.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">207</span> +The ponds are the distinctive feature of the Common, +and there are several of them dotted about, the joy of +boys for bathing and boat-sailing. The origin of most +of them has been gravel pits dug in early days. There +is the Cock Pond near the church, the Long Pond, the +Mount Pond, and the Eagle House Pond, some of them +fairly large. The Mount Pond was at one time nearly +lost to the Common, as about 1748 a Mr. Henton +Brown, who had a house close by, and who kept a boat +on the water, obtained leave to fence it in for his own +private gratification. It was not until others followed +Mr. Brown’s example, and further encroachments began +to frighten the parish, that it repented of having let in +the thin end of the wedge. A committee was formed +to watch over the interests of the Common lands, and +took away Mr. Brown’s privileges; but in spite of their +vigilance other pieces were from time to time taken away. +A little group of houses by the Windmill Inn are on +the site of one of these shavings off the area, for a house +called Windmill Place. The church was built on a +corner of the Common in 1774, and has a peaceful, solid, +dignified appearance, standing among fine old elms and +away from the din of trams, which rush in all directions +from the corner hard by. It was built to replace an +older parish church, which was described as “a mean +edifice, without a steeple” by a writer of the eighteenth +century, who admired the “elegant” one which took its +place. The present generation would hardly apply that +epithet to the massive Georgian edifice, but it seems to +suit its surroundings: substantial and unostentatious, +recalling memories of the evangelical revival, it seems an +essential part of the Common and its history.</p> + +<p>Away to the south-west of Clapham lies Tooting<span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">208</span> +(why does the very name sound comic, and invariably +produce a laugh?), another Common, nearly as large, and +much more wild and picturesque. Clapham is essentially +a town open space, like an overgrown village green; but +on Tooting Common one can successfully play at being +in the country. The trees are quite patriarchal, and have +nothing suburban about them, except their blackened +stems. There are good spreading oaks and grand old +elms, gnarled thorns, tangles of brambles, and golden +gorse. The grass grows long, with stretches of mossy +turf, and has not the melancholy, down-trodden appearance +of Clapham or Peckham Rye.</p> + +<p>Fine elm avenues overshadow the main roads, and no +stiff paths with iron rails, take away from the rural effect. +Even the railway, which cuts across it in two directions, +has only disfigured and not completely spoilt the park-like +appearance. The disused gravel-pits, now filled with +water, have been enlarged since the London County Council +had possession; and if only the banks could be left as wild +and natural, as nature is willing to make them, they may +be preserved from the inevitable stamp which marks every +municipal park. The smaller holes, excavated by virtue +of the former rights of digging gravel, and already overgrown, +assist rather than take away from the charms of +the Common.</p> + +<p>Tooting Common consists of two parts, belonging to +two ancient manors. The smallest is Tooting Graveney, +which derives its name from the De Gravenelle family, +who held the manor soon after the Conquest, on the +payment of a rose yearly at the feast of St. John the +Baptist. The larger half, Tooting Beck, takes its name +from the Abbey of Bec in Normandy, which was in +possession of the Manor from Domesday till 1414,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">209</span> +when it came to the Crown. Both manors can be traced +through successive owners until the rights were purchased +in 1875 and 1873 by the Metropolitan Board of Works. +The avenue of elms which runs right across the Common +divides the two. Tooting Beck is more than twice the +size of Graveney, and has the finest trees. One of the +oldest elm trees, now encircled by a railing, was completely +hollow, but now has a young poplar sprouting +out of its shell. Tradition associates this tree particularly +with Dr. Johnson, and though he did not +compose his Dictionary under it, it is more than likely +he often enjoyed the shade of what must have been a +very old tree in his day. For fifteen years he was a +constant visitor at Thrale Place close by. “He frequently +resided here,” says a contemporary guide-book, +“and experienced that sincere respect to which his +virtues and talents were entitled, and those soothing +attentions which his ill-health and melancholy demanded.” +The house stood in 100 acres of ground +between Tooting and Streatham Commons, and has +since been pulled down and built over. During these +years, no doubt, Tooting as well as Streatham Common +was often trodden by the brilliant circle who drank +tea and conversed with the accomplished Mrs. Thrale—Sir +Joshua Reynolds, Burke, Garrick, Goldsmith—to +all of them the woodland scenes of both Commons +were familiar.</p> + +<p>To prevent the too free use of the turf by riders, +a special track has been made for them, skirting the +Common, and passing down one of the finest avenues. +It may save the grass from being too much cut up, but +to those who don’t feel called to gallop across the Common, +the loss of the green sward under the tall feathery<span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">210</span> +elms is a cause of regret. It is such, perhaps necessary, +alterations which spoil the delusion of genuine country, +otherwise so well counterfeited on Tooting Common. +A charming time is when the may is out and the gorse +ablaze with bloom, the chestnuts in blossom, and birds +are singing all around; or if one happens to be there +on a winter’s day, when it is too cold for loungers or +holiday-makers, there are moments when the nearness +of streets and trams could be forgotten. The frosty +air, and dew-drops on the vivid green grass, the brown +of the fallen leaves, the dark stems clear against an +amber sky, with the intense blue distance, which London +atmosphere produces so readily, combine harmoniously +into a telling picture, which remains photographed “upon +that inward eye, which is the gift of solitude.” The +dream is as quickly dispelled. A sight, a sound, recalls +the nearness of London, which makes its presence felt +even when one is trying to play Hide-and-seek with +the chimney-pots. How well Richard Jefferies, that +inimitable writer on nature, describes his feelings in the +neighbourhood of London, in spots only a little further +from Hyde Park Corner than Tooting <span class="locked">Beck:—</span></p> + +<p>“Though my preconceived ideas were overthrown by +the presence of so much that was beautiful and interesting +close to London, yet in course of time I came to +understand what was at first a dim sense of something +wanting. In the shadiest lane, in the still pine-woods, on +the hills of purple heather, after brief contemplation +there arose a restlessness, a feeling that it was essential to +be moving. In no grassy mead was there a nook where +I could stretch myself in slumbrous ease and watch the +swallows ever wheeling, wheeling in the sky. This was +the unseen influence of mighty London. The strong<span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">211</span> +life of the vast city magnetised me, and I felt it under +the calm oaks.”</p> + +<p>The most remote of London open spaces in this +direction is Streatham, to the south-east of Tooting, +close to Norwood, and on the very extremity of the +County of London. Much smaller than the other +commons, it possesses attractions of its own. It is +less spoilt by modern buildings than any of these once +country villages, but ominous boards foretell the rapid +advance of the red-brick villa. The houses which +now overlook the upper part are substantial, in the +solid, simple style of the eighteenth century, In those +days Streatham possessed a mineral spring, and for a +few years people flocked to drink at it. But long +before the end of the eighteenth century other more +fashionable watering-places had supplanted it, and in +1792 Streatham is described as “once frequented for +its medicinal waters.” The spring was in the grounds +afterwards belonging to a house called the Rookery, +and near the house called Wellfield, on the southern +side of the Common. The waters were said to be so +strong that three glasses of Streatham were equivalent +to nine of Epsom. Although so near London, the +journey to the springs presented some dangers, as this +was one of the most noted localities for footpads and +highwaymen. The woods of Norwood, which came +close to the Common, afforded covert and an easy means +of escape. This road from London, which went on +to Croydon and Brighton, had such a bad reputation +that the risk of an adventure must have counterbalanced +some of the health-giving properties to any nervous +invalid! The lower part of the Common, near the +road, is flat and open, and not particularly inviting.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">212</span> +The charms of the top of the hill are all the more +delightful, as they come as a surprise. There are fine +old trees, and a wealth of fern, thorns, and bramble, +and the short grass is exchanged for springy turf the +moment the crest of the steep hill is reached. But by +far the greatest surprise is the glorious view. Away +and away over soft, hazy, blue country the eye can +reach. It may or may not be true that Woolwich, +Windsor, and Stanmore can be seen: nobody will care +who gazes over that wide stretch of country bathed in +a mysterious light, perhaps with the rays of the sun, +like golden pathways from heaven, carrying the thoughts +far from the prosaic villas or harrowing slums concealed +at one’s feet. Only the wide expanse and the +waving bracken and tangled brushwood fill the picture—while +one rejoices that such a beautiful scene should +be within the reach of so many of London’s toilers.</p> + +<p>Wandsworth is among the least beautiful and the +most cut-up of the commons. Large and straggling +in extent, it has been so much encroached upon that +roads, and houses, and railways cross it. It is narrowed +to a strip in places, and all the wildness and all the +old trees have gone. Some young avenues by the main +road have been planted, and no more curtailments can +be perpetrated, as it was acquired for the use of the +public in 1871. For many years the encroachments +had roused the inhabitants, and about 1760 a species +of club was formed to protect the rights of the commoners. +When enclosures took place, the members all +subscribed and went to law, and often won their cases. +The head was called the “Mayor of Garratt,” from +Garratt Lane, near the Common, where a “ridiculous +mock election” was held. A mob collected, and encouraged<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">213</span> +by Foote, Wilkes, and others, witty speeches +were made. Foote wrote a farce called “The Mayor +of Garratt,” which for some time gave the ceremony +no small celebrity. The rowdyism becoming serious +at the sham elections, they were suppressed in 1796. +When the Common was eventually saved, it was in a +bad and untidy state: quantities of gravel had been +dug, and holes, some of them filled with water, were +a danger; the trees had all disappeared, and the whole +surface was bare and muddy. It has improved since +then, but there is nothing picturesque left. The “Three +Island Pond,” which is supposed to be its greatest +beauty, is stiff, formal, and new-looking, with a few +straggly trees growing up. Still it is safely preserved +as an open space, and makes a good recreation ground.</p> + +<p>All round London, besides the larger commons, +smaller greens are to be found, which are survivals of +the old village greens. They recall the time when +London was a walled city, and thickly scattered round +it were the little hamlets which have now been absorbed +by the ever-growing, monster town.</p> + +<p>There is little that is distinctive about them. For +the most part they are simply open spaces of well-worn +turf without trees. Shepherd’s Bush is one of these. +Brook Green, in Hammersmith, not very far from it, +has the remains of a few fine elm trees. In Fulham +there are Parson’s Green and Eel Brook Common. +Away in South London, Goose Green and Nunhead +Green are other examples where grass is even more +inconspicuous.</p> + +<figure id="i_p214" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 30em;"> + <img src="images/i_p214.jpg" width="528" height="770" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p214_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + <span class="smcap">Statue of Mrs. Siddons, Paddington Green</span> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>On the north lies Paddington Green, which is small +in extent, but close to the large graveyard turned into a +public garden. In the centre of the Green a statue to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">215</span> +Mrs. Siddons, by Chevaliand, was erected in 1897, as +she lived in the neighbourhood when Paddington was +still rural. There is nothing beautiful about the asphalt +paths between high iron railings surrounding the small +space of grass and trees. Some of the other greens are +more of the ordinary public garden type. Islington Green +has been planted with trees, and outside the railings +stands a statue of Sir Hugh Myddelton, who died in +1631, representing him holding a plan of the New River. +Stepney was once a very large green, and has still +3¼ acres of garden cut up into four sections. Some +quaint old houses, wood with tiled roofs, and good +seventeenth-century brick ones, still overlook the +gardens. The gardens have been made exactly like +every other, with a slightly serpentine path, a border +running parallel in irregular curves not following the +line of the path, and trees dotted about. One really +fine, thick-stemmed laburnum shows how well that tree +will do in smoke, and some curious old wooden water-pipes +dug up in 1890, dating from 1570, are placed at +intervals in the grass.</p> + +<p>Camberwell has one of the large village greens of +South London, and has been made into a satisfactory +garden. All the trams seem to meet there, but in +spite of the din it is a pleasant garden in which to +rest. The 2½ acres are well laid out, and the clipped +lime-trees round the railings are a protection from the +street which other places would do well to copy. When +the trees are in leaf the garden is partially hidden even +from those on the tops of omnibuses.</p> + +<p>These greens scattered round London help to connect +the larger areas, thus forming links in the chain +of open spaces which encircles London. These natural<span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">216</span> +recreation grounds are the admiration of all foreigners, +and a priceless boon to the citizens, ensuring the preservation +of green grass and green trees to refresh their +fog-dimmed eyes, at no great distance from the throng +of city life.</p> +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">217</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IX"><span id="toclink_217"></span><span class="gesperrt">CHAPTER IX</span><br> + +<span class="subhead">SQUARES</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Fountains and Trees our wearied Pride do please,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Even in the midst of Gilded Palaces;</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>And in our Towns, that Prospect gives Delight,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Which opens round the Country to our Sight.</i></div> + </div> + <div class="attrib">—Lines in a Letter from <span class="smcap">Sprat</span> to <span class="smcap">Sir Christopher<br>Wren</span> <span class="l2">on the Translation of Horace.</span></div> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="idc idcN"><img src="images/i_idc_n.png" width="179" height="181" alt="N"> +<span class="firstword">Nothing</span> is more essentially characteristic +of London than its +squares. They have no exact +counterpart in any foreign city. +The iron railings, the enclosure +of dusty bushes and lofty trees, +with wood-pigeons and twittering +sparrows, have little in common +with, say for instance, the Place Vendôme in Paris, +or the Grand’ Place in Brussels, or Madison Square, +New York. The vicissitudes of some of the London +Squares would fill a volume, but most of them have +had much the same origin. They have been built +with residential houses surrounding them, and though +some have changed to shops, and in others the houses +are dilapidated and forsaken by the wealthier classes, +nearly every one has had its day of popularity.</p> + +<p>In some of those now deserted by the world +of fashion, the gardens have been opened to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">218</span> +public, but by far the greater number of squares are +maintained by the residents in their neighbourhood, +who have keys to the gardens. But even though they +are kept outside the railings the rest of the public +receive a benefit from these air spaces and oxygen-exhaling +trees. Sometimes the public get more direct +advantage, as in such cases as Eaton Square, where +seats are placed down the centre on the pavement +under the shade of the trees inside the rails, and are +much frequented in hot weather; or in Lower Grosvenor +Gardens, which are open for six weeks in the autumn, +when most of the residents in the houses are absent.</p> + +<p>Squares are dotted about nearly all over London, +but they can, for the most part, be grouped together. +There are the older ones, of different sizes, and varying +in their modern conditions. Among such are Lincoln’s +Inn Fields, Charterhouse, Soho, Golden, Leicester, and +St. James’s Squares. Then there is the large Bloomsbury +group, and further westward the chain of squares +begins with Cavendish, Manchester, Portman, on the +north, and Hanover and Grosvenor to the south of +Oxford Street. Then follow the later continuations +of the sequence—Bryanston, Montagu, and so on to +Ladbroke Square, nearly to Shepherd’s Bush. To the +south of the Park lies the Belgravia group, with more +and more modern additions stretching westward till +they join the old village of Kensington, with dignified +squares of its own, or till their further multiplication +is checked by the River.</p> + +<p>To describe most of these squares would imply a +vast amount of vain repetition. Few have anything +original either in design or planting. The majority +have elms and planes mixed with ailanthus, while<span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">219</span> +aucubas, euonymous, and straggling privet form the +staple product of the encircling borders, with a pleasant +admixture of lilac and laburnum, and generally a +good supply of iris facing the gravel pathway. A few +annuals and bedding-out plants brighten the borders +in summer, and some can boast of one or two ferns. +Occasionally the luxury of a summer-house is indulged +in, and here and there a weeping ash has been ventured +upon by way of shelter; a secluded walk or seat is +practically unknown. The older gardens have some +large trees, and the turf in all of them is good, and +when it is with “daisies pied” it forms the chief delight +of the children who play there. It may be that the +distance of Notting Hill Gate from the smoke of +the East End has encouraged more enterprise in +gardening; certainly the result of the planting in +Ladbroke Square is satisfactory. Several healthy young +oaks are growing up; and a fountain and small piece +of formal gardening round it, on the highest point of +the long, sloping lawn, is effective. In the older +squares, such as Grosvenor Square, the bushes are high, +and the openings so well arranged that the lawns in +the centre are perfectly private, and hidden from the +streets. In the less ancient ones, such as Eccleston +and Warwick, Connaught and Montagu Squares, the +long, narrow strip leaves little scope for variation.</p> + +<p>An innovation of the usual square is to be seen +in Duke Street, Grosvenor Square. This small +square, which was laid out as a garden with sheltered +seats, was made when the new red-brick dwellings +replaced the smaller and more crowded houses. The +middle is now the distributing centre of an electric +power-station, but the roof is low and flat, and has been<span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">220</span> +successfully transformed into a formal garden, with +trees in tubs and boxes of flowers.</p> + +<figure id="i_p220" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 34em;"> + <img src="images/i_p220.jpg" width="529" height="408" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p220_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + <span class="smcap">Winter Garden, Duke Street, Grosvenor Square</span> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Some of the squares have finer trees than others, and +in many a statue is a feature. Originally these statues +formed the central object towards which the garden +paths converged, but most of the central statues have +been moved, though in a few, like St. James’s and +Golden Squares, they are still in the middle. These +statues were evidently a good deal thought of by +Londoners, but they did not strike foreigners as very +good. In one of Mirabeau’s letters he writes in 1784 +from London: “The public monuments in honour of +Sovereigns, reflect little honour on English Sculpture.... +The Statues of the last Kings, which adorn the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">221</span> +Squares in the new quarters of London, being cast in +brass or copper, have nothing remarkable in them but +their lustre; they are doubtless kept in repair, cleaned +and rubbed with as much care as the larger knockers at +gentlemen’s doors, which are of similar metal.” The +usual plan now is to place the statue facing the street, +where a background of green shows it off to the +passer-by. Thus Lord George Bentinck is prominent +in Cavendish Square, from which the equestrian central +statue of the Duke of Cumberland has gone; and from +Hanover Square, built about the same time as Cavendish +(between 1717–20), Chantrey’s statue of Pitt gazes +down towards St. George’s Church. In Grosvenor +Square no statue has replaced the central one of +George I. by Von Nost, which was placed there in 1726, +and is described by Maitland as a “stately gilt equestrian +statue.” This Square is older than the two last mentioned, +having been built in 1695. In those days each +of the spacious houses had its large garden at the back, +with a view of the country away to Hampstead and +Highgate. The garden was designed by Kent, but a plan +of it about 1750 shows a considerable difference between +the arrangements then and now, although some details +are the same. The raised square of grass in the centre +where the statue stood has now a large, octagonal, covered +seat, apparently formed with the old pedestal. The +walk round and the four wide paths to the centre are +retained, but the smaller intersecting paths are replaced +by lawns on which grow some fine old elms. The railings +with stone piers and handsome gates, shown in the +engraving, have given place to much less ornamental +iron rails.</p> + +<figure id="i_p220c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 24em;"> + <img src="images/i_p220c.jpg" width="421" height="781" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p220c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + STATUE OF PITT, HANOVER SQUARE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Manchester Square is of later date. It was an open<span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">222</span> +space approached by shady lanes from Cavendish Square +for some fifty years after that was built. The houses in +Manchester Square were not begun till 1776—some ten +years after the commencement of Portman Square. This +district was all very semi-rural and unfinished until much +later. Southey, in a letter, writes of Portman Square as +“on the outskirts of the town,” and approached “on +one side by a road, unlit, unpaved, and inaccessible by +carriages.” The large corner house, now occupied by +Lord Portman, was built for Mrs. Montagu, “Queen +of the Blue Stockings,” and during her time “Montagu +House” was the salon to which the literary celebrities +of the day flocked. When Mrs. Montagu moved +there from Hill Street she wrote to a friend, “My +health has not been interrupted by the bad weather +we have had; I believe Portman Square is the Montpellier +of England.” In the centre of the Square garden +was planted a “wilderness,” after the fashion of the day, +and early in the nineteenth century, when the Turkish +Ambassador resided in the Square, he erected a kiosk in +this “wilderness,” where he used to smoke and imagine +himself in a perfumed garden of the East. It is still +one of the best kept-up of the squares.</p> + +<p>Berkeley Square dates from nearly the same time as +Grosvenor, having been begun in 1698, on the site of the +extensive gardens of Berkeley House, which John Evelyn +so much admired, and where flourished the holly hedges +of which he advised the planting. The central statue +here was one by Beaupré and Wilton of George III., +which was removed in 1827, and the base of the statue +made into a summer-house. In the place of the usual +statesman, a drinking fountain, with a figure pouring +the water—the gift of the Marquess of Lansdowne—has<span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">223</span> +been placed outside the rails at the southern end. +The plane trees are very fine, and were planted at the +end of the eighteenth century, it is said, by Mr. Edward +Bouverie in 1789. The plane has been so long grown +in London these cannot be said with certainty to be the +oldest, as is so often stated. Some in Lincoln’s Inn +Fields are decidedly larger. In 1722 Fairchild writes +in praise of the plane trees, about 40 feet high, in +the churchyard of St. Dunstan-in-the-East. Loudon +mentions one at the Physic Garden, planted by Philip +Miller, which was 115 feet high in 1837 (a western +Plane—not the great oriental Plane which fell down a +few years ago). The western Plane (<i class="flora" lang="la">Platinus occidentalis</i>) +was introduced to this country many years after the +eastern Plane (<i class="flora" lang="la">Platinus orientalis</i>). The tree most common +in town is a variety of eastern Plane called <i class="flora" lang="la">accrifolia</i>, +known as the “London Plane”: this must have been a +good deal planted all through the eighteenth century, +so it is difficult to assign to any actual tree the priority.</p> + +<p>St. James’s Square is older than any of the squares +already glanced at, having been built in the time of +Charles II. It was known as Pall Mall Field or Close, +originally part of St. James’s Fields, and the actual site +of the Square was a meadow used by those attached to +the Court as a sort of recreation ground. Henry +Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans, leased it in 1665 from +Charles II., and began to plan the Square or “Piazza,” +as it was called at first. The deadly year of the Plague, +followed by the Great Fire, delayed the building, and +the houses were not finished and lived in till 1676. +No. 6 in the Square, belonging to the Marquess of +Bristol, has been in his family since that time. Every +one of the fine old houses has its story of history and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">224</span> +romance. Here Charles II. was frequently seen visiting +Moll Davis, Sir Cyril Wyche, and the Earl of Ranelagh. +The Earl of Romney, and the Duke of Ormond, and +Count Tallard the French Ambassador, are names connected +with the Square in William III.’s time, and +Josiah Wedgwood lived at No. 7. But these and many +other historical personages did not look from their +windows on to a well-ordered garden, and the Court +beauties did not wander with their admirers under the +spreading trees. The centre of the Square was left open, +and merely like a field. The chief use to which the +space seems to have been put was for displays of fireworks. +One of the great occasions for these was after +the Peace of Ryswick, but unfortunately they were not +always very successful. An eye-witness, writing to Sir +Christopher Hatton, says of Sir Martin Beckman, who +had the management of them, that he “hath got the +curses of a good many and the praises of nobody.” The +open space eventually became so untidy that the residents +in 1726 petitioned Parliament to allow them to levy a +special rate to “cleanse, adorn, and beautify the Square,” +as “the ground hath for some years past lain, and doth +now lie, rude and in great disorder, contrary to the +design of King Charles II., who granted the soil for +erecting capital buildings.” So badly used was it that +even a coach-builder had erected a shed in the middle of +it, in which to store his timber. Strong measures were +taken, and any one “annoying the Square” after May 1, +1726, was to be fined 20s., and any one encroaching +on it, £50. No hackney coach was allowed to ply +there, and unless a coachman, after setting down his fare, +immediately drove out of the Square, he was to be fined +10s. The whole place was levelled and paved, and a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">225</span> +round basin of water, which was intended to have a +fountain in it, and never did, was dug in the centre. +Round it ran an octagon railing with stone obelisks, surmounted +with lamps at each angle. A road of flat paving-stones +with posts went round the Square in front of the +houses; the rest was paved with cobble stones. As early +as 1697 it was proposed to place a statue of William III., +and figures emblematical of his victories, in the Square, +but nothing was done. In 1721 the Chevalier de David +tried to get up a subscription for a sum of £2500 for a +statute of George I. to be done by himself and set up, +but, as he only collected £100 towards it, that scheme +also fell through. Once more an effort was made +which bore tardy fruit, for in 1724 Samuel Travers +bequeathed a sum of money by will “to purchase and +erect an equestrian statue in brass to the glorious +memory of my master, King William III.” Somehow +this was not carried out at the time, but in 1806 the +money appeared in a list of unclaimed dividends, and +John Bacon the younger was given the commission to +model the statue, which was cast in bronze at the +artist’s own studio in Newman Street, and put up in +the centre of the pond. Thus it remained until towards +the middle of last century the stagnant pool was drained. +In the 1780 riots the mob carried off the keys of Newgate +and flung them into this basin, where years afterwards +they were found. It was 150 feet in diameter, +and 6 or 7 feet deep. When the pond was drained, the +garden was planted in the form it now is, and the statue +left standing in the centre. St. James’s is still one of +the finest residential squares in London, and the old +rhyme, picturing the attractions in store for the lady of +quality who became a duchess and lived in the Square,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">226</span> +might have been written in the twentieth instead of the +eighteenth century.</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“She shall have all that’s fine and fair,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">And the best of silk and satin shall wear;</div> + <div class="verse indent0">And ride in a coach to take the air,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">And have a house in St. James’s Square.”</div> + </div> +</div> +</div> + +<figure id="i_p226c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 30em;"> + <img src="images/i_p226c.jpg" width="554" height="830" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p226c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + STATUE OF WILLIAM III. IN ST. JAMES’S SQUARE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Less cheerful has been the fate of Golden Square, +which has a forsaken look, and the days when it may +have justified its name are past. Originally Gelding +Square, from the name of an inn hard by, the grander-sounding +and more attractive corruption supplanted the +older name. Another derivation for the word is +also given—“Golding,” from the name of the first +builder; but anyhow it was called Golden Square soon +after it came into being. The houses round it were +built about the opening years of the eighteenth century, +when the dismal memories of the Plague were growing +faint. For the site of Golden Square, “far from the +haunts of men,” was one of the spots where, during +the Plague, thousands of dead were cast, by scores +every night. These gloomy scenes forgotten, the Square +was built, and at one time fashionable Lord Bolingbroke +lived here, while Secretary for War. It is still +“not exactly in anybody’s way, to or from anywhere.” +The garden is neat, with a row of trees round the +Square enclosure, and a path following the same lines. +In the centre stands a statue of George II., looking +thoroughly out of place, like a dilapidated Roman +emperor. It was bought from Canons, the Duke of +Chandos’s house, near Edgware, when the house was +pulled down and everything sold in 1747. There are +a few seats, but they are rarely used, and it has a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">227</span> +very quiet and dreary aspect when compared with the +cheerful crowds enjoying the gardens in its larger +neighbour, Leicester Square. This was known as +Leicester Fields, and was traversed by two rows of +elm trees; and even after the houses round it were +begun, about 1635, the name of Fields clung to +it. The ground was part of the Lammas Lands belonging +to the parish of St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields, and +Robert Sydney, Earl of Leicester, who built the house +from which the Square takes its name, paid compensation +for the land, to the poor of the parish £3 yearly. +The house occupied the north-east corner of the Square, +and in after years became famous as a royal residence. +It has been called “the pouting-place” of princes, +as it was to Leicester House that the Prince of Wales +retired when he quarrelled with his father, George I.; +and there Caroline the Illustrious gathered all the +dissatisfied courtiers, and such wit and beauty as could +be found, round her. When he became George II., +and quarrelled in his turn with his son, Frederick, +Prince of Wales, the latter came to live in Leicester +House. The statue of George I. which stood in the +centre of the garden was, it was said, put up by +Frederick, with the express purpose of annoying his +father. A view of the Square in 1700, shows a neatly-kept +square garden with four straight walks, and trees +at even distances, and Leicester House standing back, +with a forecourt and large entrance gates, and a garden +of its own with lawns and statues at the back. Savile +House, next door to Leicester House, on the site +of the present Empire Theatre, was also the scene +of many interesting incidents, until it was practically +destroyed during the Gordon Riots. The list of great<span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">228</span> +names connected with the Square is too long to recite, +but four of the greatest are commemorated by the four +busts in the modern garden—Sir Joshua Reynolds, +Hogarth, John Hunter, the eminent surgeon, and Sir +Isaac Newton. But before these monuments were +erected Leicester Square Garden had gone through a +period of decay. It was left unkept up and uncared +for; the gilt statue was tumbling to pieces, and was +only propped up with wooden posts. The garden +from 1851 for ten years, was used to exhibit the Great +Globe of Wylde, the geographer, who leased the space +from the Tulk family, then the owners of the land. +Leicester House, after it ceased to be a royal residence, +was in the hands of Sir Ashton Lever, who turned +it into a museum, which was open from 1771 to 1784, +but failed to obtain much popularity. The collection +was dispersed, and soon after the house was pulled +down and the site built over, and the Square was +allowed to get more and more untidy. Several efforts +were made to purchase it for the public, but the price +asked was prohibitive, as the owners wished to build +on it. When, however, after much litigation, the +Court of Appeal decided it could not be built on, +but must be maintained as an open space, they were +more ready to come to terms. A generous purchaser +came forward, Mr. Albert (afterwards Baron) Grant, +who bought the land, laid it out as a garden, and +presented it to the public, to be kept up by the +Metropolitan Board of Works. The plans for the +newly-restored garden, were made for Mr. Grant by +Mr. James Knowles, and the planting done by Mr. +John Gibson, who was then occupied with the sub-tropical +garden in Battersea Park. The statue of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">229</span> +Shakespeare in the centre, and the four busts, were +also the gift of the same public benefactor, who +presented the Square complete, with trees, statues, +railings, and seats, in 1874.</p> + +<p>Soho Square was another of the fashionable squares of +London, now gloomy and deserted by its former aristocratic +residents. The gardens are kept up for the benefit +of those living in the Square only, and are not enjoyed +by the masses, like Leicester Square. Maitland describes +the building and consecration of St. Anne’s, Soho, or, as +he calls it, St. Anne’s, Westminster, which was in 1685 +separated from St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields, and a new +parish created, just in the same way as scores of parishes +have to be treated nowadays, to meet the needs of the +much more rapidly-growing population. Of the new +parish, he says the only remarkable things were “its +beautiful streets, spacious and handsome Church, and +stately Quadrate, denominated King’s-Square, but vulgarly +Soho-Square.” Various suggestions have been made as +to the origin of the name, and the most popular explanation +is that it was a hunting-cry used in hunting hares, +which sport was indulged in over these fields. The word +Soho occurs in the parish registers as early as 1632. +When first built the Square was called King Square, from +Geoffrey King, who surveyed it, not after King Charles II. +But the old name of the fields became for ever attached +to the Square, to the entire exclusion of the more modern +one, after the battle of Sedgemoor. Monmouth’s supporters +on that occasion took the word Soho for their +watchword, from the fact that Monmouth lived in the +Square. In 1690 John Evelyn notes that he went with +his family “to winter at Soho in the Great Square.” +Monmouth House was built by Wren, when the Square<span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">230</span> +was begun in 1681, and it was pulled down, to make +room for smaller houses on the south side of the Square, in +1773. There are some fine old trees in the garden, and +a statue of Charles II. used, till the middle of last century, +like the one in St. James’s Square, to stand in a basin of +water, with figures round it, emblematic of the rivers +Thames, Severn, Tyne, and Humber, spouting water. +Nollekens, the sculptor, who was born in 28 Dean Street, +Soho, in 1738, recalled how he stood as a boy “for hours +together to see the water run out of the jug of the old +river-gods in the basin in the middle of the Square, but +the water never would run out of their jugs but when +the windmill was going round at the top of Rathbone +Place.” The centre of the Square was in 1748 “new +made and inclosed with iron railings on a stone kirb,” +and “eight lamp Irons 3 ft. 6 in. high above the spikes +in each of the Eight corner Angles”: the “Channell all +round the Square” was paved with “good new Kentish +Ragg stones.”</p> + +<p>Beyond Oxford Street are collected a great number of +squares in the district of Bloomsbury. They are all surrounded +by solid, well-built houses, which seem to hold +their own with dignity, even though fashion has moved +away from them westward. Before the squares arose, +this was the site of two great palaces with their gardens. +One of them, Southampton House, afterwards known as +Bedford or Russell House, was where Bloomsbury Square +now is. In 1665, February 9, Evelyn notes that he +“dined at my Lord Treasurer’s the Earl of Southampton, +in Bloomsbury, where he was building a noble square or +piazza, a little town; his own house stands too low—some +noble rooms, a pretty cedar chapel, a naked garden +to the North, but good air.” This house was pulled<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">231</span> +down in 1800, and Russell Square was built on the +garden. Both Bloomsbury, or Southampton Square, as it +was sometimes called, and Russell Square have good trees, +and in each garden there is a statue by Westmacott. +Charles James Fox, seated in classical drapery, erected in +1816, looks down Bedford Place, where stood Southampton +House, towards the larger statue, with elaborate +pedestal and cupids, of Francis, Duke of Bedford, in +Russell Square. This is one of London’s largest +Squares, being only about 140 feet smaller than Lincoln’s +Inn Fields, and included most of the garden of +Southampton House, with its fine limes, and a large +locust-tree, <i class="flora" lang="la">Robinia pseudo acacia</i>.</p> + +<p>The laying out is more original in design than most +of the squares, having been done by Repton in 1810. +In Repton’s book on Landscape Gardening he goes +fully into his reasons for the design of Russell Square. +“The ground,” he said, “had all been brought to one +level plain at too great expense to admit of its being +altered.” He approves of the novel plan of placing the +statue at the edge instead of in the usual position in the +centre of the Square. “To screen the broad gravel-walk +from the street, a compact hedge is intended to be kept +clipt to about six feet high; this, composed of privet +and hornbeam, will become almost as impervious as a +hedge of laurels, or other evergreens, which will not +succeed in a London atmosphere.” He says he has not +“clothed the lawn” with plantation, so that children +playing there could be seen from the windows, to meet +“the particular wishes of some mothers.” “The outline +of this area is formed by a walk under two rows of lime-trees, +regularly planted at equal distances, not in a perfect +circle, but finishing towards the statue in two straight<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">232</span> +lines.” He imagines that fanciful advocates of landscape +gardening will object to this as too formal, and be “further +shocked” by learning that he hoped they would be kept +cut and trimmed. Within were to be “groves in one +quarter of the area, the other three enriched with flowers +and shrubs, each disposed in a different manner, to indulge +the various tastes for regular or irregular gardens.” He +ends his description by saying: “A few years hence, when +the present patches of shrubs shall have become thickets—when +the present meagre rows of trees shall have +become an umbrageous avenue—and the children now in +their nurses’ arms shall have become the parents or grand-sires +of future generations—this square may serve to +record, that the Art of Landscape Gardening in the +beginning of the nineteenth century was not directed +by whim or caprice, but founded on a due consideration +of utility as well as beauty, without a bigoted adherence +to forms and lines, whether straight, or crooked, or +serpentine.”</p> + +<p>Repton always put forth his ideas in high-sounding +language, often not so well justified as in the present +case. The lime-trees have been allowed to grow taller +than he desired, and yet are not fine trees from having at +one period been kept trimmed; but they certainly form an +attractive addition to the usual design, and looking at +them, after nearly a hundred years, from the outside, +where they form a background to the statue, the effect +in summer is very attractive.</p> + +<p>Bedford Square is on the gardens of the other great +house—Montagu House, built by the Duke of Montagu. +Evelyn also notes going to see that. In 1676, “I dined,” +he says, “with Mr. Charleton and went to see Mr. +Montagu’s new palace near Bloomsbury, built by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">233</span> +Mr. Hooke of our Society [the Royal] after the French +manner.” This house was burnt down ten years later, +and rebuilt with equal magnificence; but when the Duke +moved to Montagu House, Whitehall, in 1757, it became +the home of the British Museum. The old house was +pulled down and the present building erected in 1845. +The Square was laid out at the end of the eighteenth +century on the gardens and the open fields of the parish +of St. Giles-in-the-Fields beyond. Lord Loughborough +lived in No. 6, and after him Lord Eldon from 1804 to +1815. At the time of the Gordon Riots in 1780, when +Lord Mansfield’s house was plundered, troops were +stationed near, and a camp formed in the garden of the +British Museum. That garden was also of use when, in +March 1815, Lord Eldon’s house in Bedford Square was +attacked by a mob, and he was forced to make his escape +out of the back into the Museum garden.</p> + +<p>Of Queen’s Square, built in Queen Anne’s time, +but containing a statue of Queen Charlotte, and all the +other squares of this district there is little of special +interest to record directly connected with their gardens. +They all have good trees, and are kept up much in the +same style.</p> + +<p>Red Lion Square is an exception. It has a longer +history, and now its garden differs from the rest, as it +is open to the public, and a great boon in this crowded +district. It takes its name from a Red Lion Inn, which +stood in the fields long before any other houses had +grown up near it. It was to this inn that the bodies +of the regicides Cromwell, Ireton, and Bradshaw were +carried, when they were exhumed from Westminster Abbey +and taken, with all the horrible indignities meted out to +traitors, to Tyburn. A tradition, probably without foundation,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">234</span> +was for long current that a rough stone obelisk, +which stood afterwards in the Square, marked the spot +where Cromwell’s body was buried by friends who rescued +the remains from the scaffold. The houses were built +round it at the end of the seventeenth century, but the +space in the middle seems, like all other squares at this +time, to have been more or less a rubbish heap, and a +resort of “vagabonds and other disorderly persons.” In +1737 the inhabitants got an Act of Parliament to allow +them to levy a rate to keep the Square in order. A +contemporary, in praising this determination to beautify +the Square, “which had run much to decay,” hopes that +“Leicester Fields and Golden Square will soon follow these +good examples.” The “beautifying” consisted in setting +up a railing round it, with watch-houses at the corners, +while the obelisk rose in the centre out of the rank grass.</p> + +<p>The present garden, when first opened to the public, +was managed by the Metropolitan Gardens Association, +but since 1895 the London County Council have looked +after it; the inhabitants having made a practically free +gift of it for the public benefit. The nice old trees, +flowers, seats, and fountain make it a much less gloomy +spot than during any time of its history since the Red +Lion kept solitary watch in the fields.</p> + +<p>The largest of all the squares is Lincoln’s Inn Fields. +The garden, which is 7¼ acres in extent, was, after +many lengthy negotiations, finally opened to the public +in 1895. The fine old houses which survive, show the +importance and size of Inigo Jones’s original conception. +It has been said that the Square is exactly the same size +as the base of the Great Pyramid, but this is not the case. +The west side, which was completed by Inigo Jones, was +begun in 1618, but the centre of the Square was left an<span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">235</span> +open waste till long after that date. The Fields, before +the building commenced, were used as a place of execution, +and Babington and his associates met a traitor’s +death, in 1586, on the spot where it was supposed they +had planned some of their conspiracy. The surrounding +houses had been built, and the ground was no longer an +open field when William, Lord Russell, was beheaded +there in 1683. The scaffold was erected in what is now +the centre of the garden. The Fields for many years +bore a bad name, and were the haunt of thieves and +ruffians of all sorts. When things reached such a climax, +that the Master of the Rolls was knocked down in crossing +the Fields, the centre was railed in. This was done +about 1735, with a view to improving their condition, +and they remained closed, and kept up by the inhabitants, +until a few years ago. The chief feature in the pleasant +gardens now are the very fine trees. There are some +patriarchal planes, with immense branches, under which +numbers of people are always to be seen resting. The +houses, Old Lindsay House, Newcastle House, the +College of Surgeons, Sir John Soane’s Museum, with +long histories of their own, and all the lesser ones, with +a sleepy air of dingy respectability and ancient splendour, +now look down on a most peaceful, well-kept garden, and +Gay’s lines of warning are no longer a necessary <span class="locked">caution:—</span></p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“Where Lincoln’s Inn wide space is rail’d around,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Cross not with venturous step; there oft is found</div> + <div class="verse indent0">The lurking thief, who, while the daylight shone,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Made the walls echo with his begging tone;</div> + <div class="verse indent0">That crutch, which late compassion moved, shall wound</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Thy bleeding head, and fell thee to the ground.”</div> + </div> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Adjoining the Fields is New Square, which used to be +known as Little Lincoln’s Inn Fields, and earlier still as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">236</span> +Fickett’s Field or Croft. It was built in 1687. Fickett’s +Fields occupied a wider area, and until 1620 they, like +the larger Fields, were a place of execution. The site of +New Square was planted and laid out in very early days. +The Knights of St. John in 1376 made it into a walking +place, planted with trees, for the clerks, apprentices, and +students of the law. In 1399 a certain Roger Legit was +fined and imprisoned for setting mantraps with a “malicious +intention to maim the said clerks and others,” as +they strolled in their shaded walks. This Square, like all +others, went through phases of being unkept and untidy, +but was finally remodelled, into its present neat form, in +1845.</p> + +<p>Eastwards, into the heart of London there are the +squares which are the remains of the open ground +without the City walls. Charterhouse Square, which is +now a retired, quiet spot with old houses telling of a +former prosperity, has a history reaching back to the +fourteenth century. In the days of the Black Death, +when people were dying so fast that the Chronicler of +London, Stowe, says that “scarce the tenth person of all +sorts was left alive,” the “churchyards were not sufficient +to receive the dead, but men were forced to chuse out +certaine fields for burials: whereupon Ralph Stratford, +Bishop of London, in the yeere 1348 bought a piece of +ground, called <em>No man’s land</em>, which he inclosed with a +wall of Bricke, and dedicated for buriall of the dead, +builded thereupon a proper Chappell, which is now +enlarged, and made a dwelling-house: and this burying +plot is become a faire Garden, retaining the old name +of Pardon Churchyard.” It was very soon after this +purchase, that the Carthusian monastery was founded +hard by; but although the land was bought by the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">237</span> +Order, Pardon Churchyard was maintained as a burial-ground +for felons and suicides. After the dissolution +of the monasteries, when Charterhouse School and +Hospital had been established by Thomas Sutton, the +houses round the other three sides of the Square began +to be built. One of the finest was Rutland House, once +the residence of the Venetian Ambassador. It is still a +quiet, quaint place of old memories; and the garden, +with two walks crossing each other diagonally, and some +fair-sized trees, has a solemn look, as if, even after all +the centuries that have passed, it had some trace of its +origin. Finsbury Circus and Finsbury Square are very +different. They are more modern, bustling places which +have entirely effaced the past. That they were, for long +years, the most resorted to of open spaces, where Londoners +took their walks is well-nigh forgotten, except +in the name Finsbury, or Fensbury, the fen or moor-like +fields without the walls. Bethlehem Hospital, +known as Bedlam, was, for many generations, the only +large building on the Fields. Finsbury Square was +begun more than a hundred years ago, and but for the +few green trees, nothing suggests the former country +origin. Trinity Square, by the Tower, is so unique +in aspect and association that it must be mentioned. In +the sixteenth century the “tenements and garden plots” +encroached on Tower Hill right up to the “Tower +Ditch,” and from the earliest time some kind of garden +existed at the Tower. When it was a royal residence, +frequent entries appear in the accounts of payments for +the upkeep of the garden. Although so much has +changed, and the wild animals that afforded amusement +for centuries are removed, it is pleasant to see the moat +turned into walks, and well planted with iris and hardy<span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">238</span> +plants, and making quite a bright show in summer, in +contrast to the sombre grey walls.</p> + +<p>Away in the East End there are numbers of other +gloomy little squares whose gardens are the playground +of the neighbourhood. They are useful spaces of air +and light, and the few trees and low houses surrounding +them give a little ventilation in some of the very crowded +districts. They are all much alike; in some more care +has been taken in the planting and selection of the trees +than in others. There is De Beauvoir Square, Dalston; +Arbour Square, off the Commercial Road; York Square, +Stepney; Wellclose, near the Mint and London Docks; +Trafalgar Square, Mile End; and many others dotted +about among the dismal streets. Turning to the +West End again, the largest of the square spaces is +Vincent Square, which forms the playground of the +Westminster boys. It derives its name from Dr. Vincent, +the head-master who was chiefly instrumental in obtaining +it for the use of the boys. It was first marked +out in 1810, and enclosed by railings in 1842. The +10 acres of ground were part of Tothill Fields, and the +site was a burial-place in the time of the Great Plague.</p> + +<p>There is nothing of historical interest in the Squares +of Belgravia. The ground covered by Belgrave Square +was known as Five Fields, which were so swampy that +no one had attempted to build on them. It was the +celebrated builder, Thomas Cubitt, who in 1825 was +able by draining, and removing clay, which he used for +bricks, to reach a solid foundation, and in a few years +had built Belgrave and Eaton Squares and the streets +adjoining. The site of the centre of Belgrave Square +was then a market-garden. Ebury Square, the garden +of which is open to the public, and tastefully laid out,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">239</span> +was built about 1820. The farm on that spot, which +in 1676 came to the Grosvenor family, was a farm of +430 acres in Queen Elizabeth’s time, and is mentioned +as early as 1307, when Edward I. gave John de +Benstede permission to fortify it. There was only one +road across the swampy ground from St. James’s to +Chelsea, and that was the King’s Road, which followed +the line of the centre of Eaton Square. There were, +however, numerous footpaths, infested by footpads and +robbers at night, and bright with wild flowers and +scented by briar roses by day. There is a great sameness +among all the squares between Vauxhall Bridge +and the Pimlico Road. Of this latter original-sounding +name there seems no satisfactory explanation. The +space between Warwick Street and the river, was in +old times occupied by the Manor House of Neyte, +and in later days by nurseries and a tea garden, known +as the Neat House. The ground near Eccleston Square +was an osier bed. The whole surface was raised by +Cubitt, with soil from St. Katherine’s Docks in 1827, +and the houses built, and square gardens laid out; Eccleston +in 1835, Warwick 1843, St. George’s 1850, and so +on until the whole was covered. The gardens are all +in the same style, and have no horticultural interest. +The garden in front of Cadogan Place varied most from +the usual pattern, having been designed by Repton. +“Instead of raising the surface to the level of the street, +as had usually been the custom, by bringing earth from +a distance,” he “recommended a valley to be formed +through its whole length, with other lesser valleys flowing +from it, and hills to be raised by the ground so +taken from the valleys.” The original intention was to +bring the overflow of the Serpentine down Repton’s<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">240</span> +valley, but this was never done, and the gardens now +only show the variation of level in one part. There is +a good assortment of trees, and a group of mulberries +which bear fruit every year.</p> + +<p>Further west again, the old hamlet of Brompton has +small, quiet squares of its own. The trees of Brompton +Square, that quiet <i lang="fr">cul-de-sac</i>, and the way through with a +nice row of trees to Holy Trinity Church (built in 1829), +with Cottage Place running parallel with it, is rather +unlike any other corner of London. Before it was +built over Brompton was famous for its gardens—first +that of London and Wise, in the reign of William III. +and Anne, and then that of William Curtis, the editor +of the <i>Botanical Magazine</i>. A guide-book of 1792, describes +Brompton as “a populous hamlet of Kensington, +adjoining Knightsbridge, remarkable for the salubrity +of its air. This place was the residence of Oliver +Cromwell.” Kensington Square is older than any of the +Brompton Squares, having been begun in James II.’s +reign, and completed after William III. was living in +Kensington Palace. From the first it was very fashionable, +and has many celebrated names connected with +it—Addison, Talleyrand, Archbishop Herring, John +Stuart Mill, and many others. The weeping ash trees +and circular beds give the gardens a character of their +own. Edwardes differs from all other London Squares. +The small houses and large square garden are said by +Leigh Hunt, who lived there at one time, to have been +laid out to suit the taste of French refugees, who it was +thought might take up their quarters there. The small +houses were to suit their empty pockets, and the large +garden their taste for a sociable out-of-door life. +Loudon was an admirer of the design of the garden,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">241</span> +which he says was made by Aiglio, an eminent landscape +painter, in 1819. The arrangement is quite distinct +from other squares—small paths, partly hidden by +groups of bushes and larger trees, all round the edge, +and from them twisting walks diverge towards the +centre. At their meeting-point now stands a shell +from the battle of the Alma. The Square with its nice +trees, standard hollies, and even a few conifers and +carefully-planted beds, is further original in possessing +a beadle. This gentleman, who lives in a delightful +little house, with a portico in which the visitors to +the Square can shelter from the rain, looks most imposing +in his uniform and gold-braided hat, and adds +greatly to the old-world appearance of the place. It +is sad to think the leases all fall in within the next +few years, and this quaint personage and vast garden +(it is 3¼ acres) and funny little houses may all disappear +from London.</p> + +<p>It is impossible in such a hasty glance to give +more than a very faint sketch of the story of the +squares, or a mere suggestion of the romance attached +to them. Though the gardening in many leaves much +to be desired, it is well to appreciate things as they +are, and enjoy to the full the pleasure the sight of +the huge planes in Berkeley or Bedford Squares, or +Lincoln’s Inn Fields, can bring even to the harassed +Londoner. When the sun shines through the large +leaves, and the chequered light and shade play on the +grass beneath, and sunbeams even light up the massive +black stems, which defy the injurious fogs, they possess +a soothing and refreshing power. They, indeed, add to +the enjoyment, the health, and the beauty of London.</p> +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">242</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_X"><span id="toclink_242"></span><span class="gesperrt">CHAPTER X</span><br> + +<span class="subhead">BURIAL-GROUNDS</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Praises on tombs are trifles vainly spent,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>A man’s good name is his best monument.</i></div> + </div> + <div class="attrib">—<span class="smcap">Epitaph in St. Botolph, Aldersgate.</span></div> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="idc idcT"><img src="images/i_idc_t.png" width="180" height="181" alt="T"> +<span class="firstword">The</span> disused burial-grounds within +the London area must now be +counted among its gardens. There +are those who would not have the +living benefit by these hallowed +spots set apart for the dead, but +the vast majority of people have +welcomed the movement which +has led to this change. In some instances there is no +doubt the transformation has been badly done. Here +and there graves have been disturbed and tombstones +heedlessly moved, but on the whole the improvement +of the last fifty years has been immense. It is appalling +even to read the accounts of many of the London graveyards +before this reaction set in. The hideous sights, +the foul condition in which God’s acre was often allowed +to remain, as revealed by the inquiry held about 1850, +together with the horrors of body-snatchers, are such +a disagreeable contrast to the orderly graveyards of +to-day, that the removal of a few head-stones is a much +lesser evil.</p> + +<p>Loudon, in the <i>Botanical Magazine</i>, was one of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">243</span> +the first to write about the improvement of public +cemeteries, and to point out how they could be beautified, +and the suggestion that the smaller burial-grounds +could be turned into gardens was made as early as 1843 +by Sir Edwin Chadwick. But the closing of them did +not come until ten years later, and it was many years +after that, before any attempt was made to turn them +into gardens. By 1877 eight had been transformed, +and from that time onwards, every year something has +been done. The Metropolitan Gardens Association, +started by Lord Meath (then Lord Brabazon) in 1882, +has done much towards accomplishing this work. One +of the earliest churchyards taken in hand was that of St. +Pancras, and joined to it St. Giles-in-the-Fields. The +Act permitting this was in 1875. Perhaps because it +was one of the first, it is also one of the worst in taste +and arrangement. The church of St. Pancras-in-the-Fields +is one of the oldest in Middlesex. “For the +antiquity thereof” it “is thought not to yield to St. +Paul’s in London.” In 1593 the houses standing near +this old Norman church were much “decaied, leaving +poore Pancras without companie or comfort.” The +bell of St. Pancras Church was said to be the last tolled +in England at the time of the Reformation, to call +people to Mass. In the seventeenth and eighteenth +century, adjoining to the south side of the churchyard, +was “a good spaw, whose water is of a sweet taste,” +very clear, and imbued with various medicinal qualities. +These “Pancras Wells” had a large garden, which +extended from the Spa buildings by the churchyard, +between the coach road from Hampstead, and the footpath +across the meadows to Gray’s Inn. As late as 1772 +the coach was stopped and robbed at this corner, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">244</span> +the footpads, armed with cutlasses, made off through +the churchyard. It was of this then lonely, rural churchyard +that it was said the dead would rest “as secure +against the day of resurrection as ... in stately Paules”; +but, alas for modern exigencies, the Midland Railway +now spans the sacred ground by a viaduct, and the +would-be improvers, in turning what remained into a +garden, have moved the tombstones, levelled the undulating +ground, and heaped the head-stones into +terrible rocky mounds, or pushed them in rows along +the wall. Numerous were the interesting monuments it +contained; many a courtly French <i lang="fr">emigré</i> here found +a resting-place, such as the Comte de Front, on whose +tomb was the line, “A foreign land preserves his ashes +with respect.” Although a monumental tablet put up +to record the opening, and the names of the designers +of the garden, proclaims it to be “a boon to the living, +a grace to the dead”; it is doubtful how that respect +to the dead was shown. The lines go on to say it was +“not for the culture of health only, but also of +thought.” Surely health and thought could have been +equally well stimulated by making pretty paths, lined +with trees and flowers, wind reverently in and out +among the tombs, and up and down the undulating +ground, with seats in shade or sun, arranged with peeps +of the old church; and there might even have been +room for the fine sun-dial (the gift of Baroness +Burdett-Coutts) without levelling the whole area and +laying it out with geometrically straight asphalt walks. +The asphalt paths are in themselves a necessity in +most cases, as the expense of keeping gravel in order +is too great, and the majority of the renovated disused +burial-grounds suffer from this fact.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">245</span></p> + +<p>Westward from St. Pancras the next large churchyard +is that of Marylebone, and further to the north +is St. John’s Wood burial-ground. Its large trees and +shaded walks are familiar to the thousands who go +every year to Lord’s Cricket Ground. Another large +one, still more westward, now used as a garden, is +Paddington. The small green patch round St. Mary’s +Church, and a large cemetery beyond, together make +over 4 acres. All round London these spaces are being +used, and in most cases little has been done to upset the +ground—among the more prominent are St. George’s, +Hanover Square, in Bayswater; St. John’s, Waterloo +Road; Brixton Parish Church, with a row of yew +trees; Fulham Parish Church, with Irish yews, and tall, +closely clipped hollies; St. Mary’s, Upper Street, Islington, +and many others. Some are large spaces, such as +St. John-at-Hackney, which covers 3 acres, and in it +stands the tower of the old church, the present very +large church which dominates it being in the Georgian +style of 1797.</p> + +<p>Stepney is the largest of all these disused churchyards, +and covers 7 acres. It was opened as a public +garden in 1887. The beautiful old Perpendicular +church of St. Dunstan, with its carved gargoyles and +fine old tower, which escaped the fire that destroyed the +roof, stands on a low level, with the large square stone +graves, of which there are a great quantity, on higher +mounds round it. The central path, the old approach +to the church, has trees on either side, and runs straight +across the graveyard, and is as peaceful-looking as the +walk in many a country churchyard. The way the laying +out as a garden has been carried out is unfortunate +in many respects. The number of the big, stone, box-like<span class="pagenum" id="Page_246">246</span> +monuments made it difficult to carry intersecting paths +across between them, so a plan hardly to be commended +has been followed, of half burying a number of these, and +planting bushes in the earth thus thrown about, and +putting the necessary frames for raising plants in the +centre. To place the frames against the wall, and make +a raised path or terrace among the tombs, and not to +have banked them up with a kind of rockery of broken +pieces, might have been more fitting. The part of the +ground which is less crowded is well planted. Birch and +alder (<i class="flora" lang="la">Alnus cordifolia</i>) are doing well, and a nice clump +of gorse flourishes.</p> + +<p>One of the best-arranged of these old East End +graveyards is that of St. George’s-in-the-East, near +Ratcliffe Highway. It is kept up by the Borough +of Stepney, having been put in order under the direction +of the rector, Rev. C. H. Turner (now Bishop of +Islington), at the expense of Mr. A. G. Crowder, in +1866. The tombstones have for the most part been +placed against the wall, or left standing if out of the +way, as in the case of the one to the Marr family, whose +murder caused horror in 1811. In the centre stands the +obelisk monument to Mrs. Raine, a benefactress of the +parish, who died in 1725. The whole of the ground is +laid out with great taste and simplicity, and is thoroughly +well cared for. The flowers seem to flourish particularly +well, and the borders in summer are redolent with the +scent of old clove carnations, which are actually raised +and kept from year to year on the premises. A small +green-house supplies the needs of the flower-beds, The +superintendence of the garden is left to Miss Kate Hall, +who takes charge of the Borough of Stepney Museum in +Whitechapel Road, and also of the charming little<span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">247</span> +nature-study museum in the St. George’s Churchyard +Garden. What formerly was the mortuary has been +turned to good account, and hundreds of children in the +borough benefit by Miss Hall’s instruction. Aquaria both +for fresh-water fish and shells, and salt-water collections, +with a lobster, starfish, sea anemones, and growing sea +weeds are to be seen, and moths, butterflies, dragon-flies, +pass through all their stages, while toads, frogs, and +salamanders and such-like are a great delight. The +hedgehog spends his summer in the garden, and +hibernates comfortably in the museum. The bees at +work in the glass hive are another source of instruction. +Outside the museum a special plot is tended by +the pupils, who are allowed in turn to work, dig, and +prune, and who obtain, under the eye of their sympathetic +teacher, most creditable results. The charm of +this East End garden, and the special educational uses it +has been put to, shows what can be achieved, and sets a +good example to others, where similar opportunities exist. +A less promising neighbourhood for gardening could +hardly be imagined, which surely shows that no one need +be disheartened.</p> + +<p>Some of the burial-grounds were in such a shocking +state before they were taken in hand, that very few of +the head-stones remained in their right places, and many +had gone altogether, while some even reappeared as paving-stones +in the district. Spa Fields, Clerkenwell, had a +very chequered history. The site was first a tea garden, +near the famous Sadler’s Wells. For a few years, from +1770, its “little Pantheon” and pretty garden, with a +pond or “canal” stocked with fish, and alcoves for tea +drinkers, was thronged by the middle class, small tradesmen, +and apprentices, while the more fashionable world<span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">248</span> +flocked to Ranelagh or Almack’s. It was the sort of +place in which John Gilpin and his spouse might have +amused themselves, on a less important holiday than their +wedding anniversary. Twenty years later the scene had +changed. The rotunda was turned into a chapel, by the +Countess of Huntingdon, who took up her residence in +a jessamine-covered house that had been a tavern, near +to it. The gardens had already been turned into a +private burial-ground, which soon became notorious for +the evil condition in which it was kept. There every +single gravestone had disappeared long before it was converted +into the neat little garden, the delight of poor +Clerkenwell children. The rotunda was at length +pulled down, and in 1888 a new church was erected on +the site. The same disgraceful story of neglect and +repulsive overcrowding, can be told of the Victoria Park +Cemetery, although the ground had not such a strange +early history. It was one of those private cemeteries +which the legislation with regard to other burial-places +did not touch. It was never consecrated, and abuses of +every kind were connected with it. It is a space of 9½ +acres in a crowded district between Bethnal Green and +Bow, a little to the south of Victoria Park. After +various difficulties in raising funds and so forth, it was +laid out by the Metropolitan Gardens Association, +opened to the public in 1894, and is kept up by the +London County Council, and is an extremely popular +recreation ground, under the name of “Meath Gardens.”</p> + +<p>One of the quiet spots near the City is Bunhill Fields. +This has for over two hundred years been the Nonconformist +burial-ground. The land was enclosed by a brick +wall, by the City of London in 1665 for interments “in +that dreadful year of Pestilence. However, it not being<span class="pagenum" id="Page_249">249</span> +made use of on that occasion,” a man called “Tindal took +a lease thereof, and converted it into a burial-ground for +the use of Dissenters.” As late as 1756 it appears to +have been known as “Tindal’s Burial-ground.” The +name Bunhill Fields was given to that part of Finsbury +Fields, on to which quantities of bones were taken from +St. Paul’s in 1549. It is said “above a thousand cartloads +of human bones” were deposited there. No +wonder the ghastly name of “bone hill,” corrupted into +Bunhill, has clung to the place. At the present time +the gravestones here are undisturbed, and more respect +has been shown to them than to the bones in the sixteenth +century. Asphalt paths meander through a forest +of monuments, and a few seats are placed in the shade +of some of the trees. Those who live in this poor +and busy district no doubt make much use of these +places of rest, but the visitor is only brought to this +depressing, gloomy spot on a pilgrimage to the tomb +of John Bunyan. He rests near the centre of the +ground, under a modern effigy. Not far off is the +tomb of Dr. Isaac Watts, whose hymns are repeated +wherever the British tongue is spoken, and near him lies +the author of “Robinson Crusoe,” Daniel Defoe. This +quaint old enclosure opens off the City Road, opposite +Wesley’s Chapel, and on the western side it is skirted +by Bunhill Row. But a few yards distant is another +graveyard of very different aspect, as it contains only +one stone, and that a very small one, with the name of +George Fox, who died in 1690. The other graves in +this, the “Friends’ Burial-ground,” never having been +marked in any way, it has the appearance of a dismal +little garden, like the approach or “gravel sweep” to +a suburban villa. But it is neatly kept.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_250">250</span></p> + +<p>Of all the churchyards, that of St. Paul’s is best +known, and least like the ordinary idea of one. But +this was not always so. It was for centuries an actual +burying-place. When the foundations of the present +cathedral were dug, after the Great Fire, a series of early +burials were disclosed. There were Saxon coffins, and +below them British graves, where wooden and ivory pins +were found, which fastened the woollen shrouds of those +who rested there, and below that again, between twenty +and thirty feet deep, were Roman remains, with fragments +of pottery, rings, beads, and such-like.</p> + +<p>The original churchyard was very much larger, as the +present houses in “St. Paul’s Churchyard” are actually +on part of the ground included in it. It extended from +Old Change in Cheapside to Paternoster Row, and on +the south to Carter Lane, and the whole was surrounded +by a wall built in 1109, with the principal gateway opening +into “Ludgate Street.” This wall seems to have +been unfinished, or else part of it became ruinous in +course of time, and the churchyard became the resort +of thieves and ruffians. To remedy this state of things, +the wall was completed and fortified early in the fourteenth +century. It had six gates, and remained like this +until the Great Fire, although long before that date +houses had been built against the wall both within and +without. Round here were collected the shops of the +most famous booksellers, such as John Day, who came +here in 1575.</p> + +<figure id="i_p250c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 33em;"> + <img src="images/i_p250c.jpg" width="553" height="741" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p250c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + ST. PAUL’S CHURCHYARD + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>On the north side was a plot of ground known as +Pardon’s Churchyard, and here was built a cloister in +Henry V.’s time, decorated with paintings to illustrate +Lidgate’s translation of “The Dance of Death.” +Here, too, was a chapel and charnel-house, and the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">251</span> +whole was pulled down by order of the Protector +Somerset, who used some of the material in building +Somerset House. It was on that occasion that the +cartloads of bones were removed to Finsbury Fields. +There, covered with earth, they made a solid, conspicuous +hill on which windmills were erected. It was +part of this same ground which has already been referred +to as Bunhill Fields. Great as was the damage done by +the Fire, perhaps no site has been so completely altered as +that of St. Paul’s. The modern cathedral, dearly loved +by all Londoners, stands at quite a different angle from +the old one, the western limit of which is marked by the +statue of Queen Anne. Nestling close to the south-west +corner of the great Gothic cathedral with its lofty spire, +was the parish church of St. Gregory, and the crypt was +the parish church of St. Faith’s. Both these parishes +were allocated a portion of the churchyard for their +burials.</p> + +<p>To the north-east of the cathedral stood Paul’s +Cross, the out-door pulpit whence many notable sermons +were preached. It is described by Stowe. “About the +middest of this Churchyard is a pulpit-crosse of timber, +mounted upon steps of stone, and covered with Lead, in +which are Sermons preached by learned Divines, every +Sunday in the fore-noone. The very antiquity of which +Crosse is to me unknowne.” The earliest scene he +records as taking place at this “crosse,” was when +Henry III., in 1259, commanded the Mayor to cause +“every stripling of twelve years of age and upward to +assemble there,” to swear “to be true to the King and +his heires, Kings of England.” In later times, the most +distinguished preachers of the day were summoned to +preach before the Court and the Mayor, Aldermen and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">252</span> +citizens, and the political significance of such harangues +may well be imagined. It was here Papal Bulls were +promulgated; here Tyndal’s translation of the New +Testament was publicly burnt; here Queen Elizabeth +listened to a sermon of thanksgiving on the defeat of +the Armada—only to mention a few of the associations +that cling round the spot, which, until within the last +fifty years, was marked by an old elm tree which kept its +memory green. Now it is treated with scant respect. +There is, indeed, a little wooden notice-board, like a +giant flower-label, stuck into the ground by an iron +support, which records the fact that here stood Paul’s +Cross, destroyed by the Fire of 1666. The notice is not +so large or conspicuous as the one a few feet from it, +beseeching the kindly friends of the pigeons not to feed +them on the flower-beds! It is to be hoped that before +long the bequest of £5000 of the late H. C. Richards, +for the re-erection of the Cross, may be embodied in some +visible form.</p> + +<p>What a picture such recollections call up!—the excited +crowds with all the colour of Tudor costumes, the +eager, fanatical faces of the “defenders of the Faith,” +the sad and despondent faces of the intensely serious +Reformers, as they see the blue smoke curl upwards, and +the flames consume the sacred volumes.</p> + +<p>Picture the churchyard once more in still earlier +times, when strange, fantastic customs clung round the +cathedral services. One of the most original seems to +have arisen from the tenure of land in Essex granted to +Sir William Baud by the Dean and Chapter. The +twenty-two acres of land were held on the condition +that “hee would (for ever) upon the Feast day of the +Conversion of Paul in Winter give unto them a good<span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">253</span> +Doe, seasonable and sweete, and upon the Feast of the +Commemoration of St. Paul in Summer, a good Buck, +and offer the same at the high Altar, the same to bee +spent amongst the Canons residents.” On the appointed +days the keeper who had brought the deer carried it +through the procession to the high altar. There the +head was severed, and the body sent off to be cooked, +while the horns, stuck on a spear, were carried round the +cathedral. The procession consisted of the Dean and +Chapter in their copes—special ones for the two occasions—one +embroidered with does, the other with bucks, +the gift of the Baud family, and on their heads garlands +of roses. Having performed the ceremony within the +church, the whole procession issued out of the west +door, and there the keeper blew a blast upon his horn, +and when he had “blowed the death of the Bucke,” +the “Horners that were about the City presently answered +him in like manner.” The Dean and Chapter paid the +blowers of horns fourpence each and their dinner, while +the man who brought the venison got five shillings and +his food and lodgings, and a “loafe of bread, having the +picture of Saint Paul upon it,” to take away with him. +What a strange picture of mediæval life and half-pagan +rites! yet all conducted with perfect good faith, in all +seriousness. It is just one of the great charms of knowing +London and its traditions, that one is able to clear +away in imagination the growth of centuries, and throw +back one’s mind to the past—to stand at the top of +Ludgate Hill and to remove Wren’s building and to +see the Gothic pinnacles; to blot out the garden and +fountain and modern seats, and see Paul’s Cross; on +the left to see the arches of the cloisters, and on the +right the high wall and timbered houses; then to open<span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">254</span> +the western door and see this strange procession issue +forth, with the antlers borne aloft, and hear the bugle-blast +and answering notes.</p> + +<p>Surely no place can be more crowded with memories +than busy, “roaring London,” and nowhere are the +past and present so unexpectedly brought together. +The City is full of surprises to those who have leisure +to wander among its narrow, crowded streets. The +quiet little graveyards afford many of these telling +contrasts. Suddenly, in the busiest thoroughfares, where +a constant stream of men are walking by every weekday, +come these quiet little back-waters. In many +cases the churches themselves have vanished, or only +remain in part. St. Mary’s Staining is one of these, +so hidden away that one might walk along Fenchurch +Street hundreds of times and never find it. The +approach is by a very narrow alley, at the end of +which is this quiet little graveyard, where, among +other worthies, reposes Sir Arthur Savage, knighted +at Cadiz in 1596. The church, all except the tower, +was destroyed in the Great Fire, and never rebuilt. +The picturesque old tower stands in the centre of +this little plot, which now forms the garden of the +Clothworkers’ Company, whose hall opens on to one +side of it.</p> + +<p>Another church which perished in the Fire and was +never rebuilt is St. Olave’s, Hart Street, but its churchyard +remains, and a few large tombs stand in a small +garden with seats, where at all times of the year some +weary wayfarers are resting.</p> + +<p>Another such graveyard where the burnt church +was not restored is at the corner of Wood Street and +Cheapside. The old tree inside the closed railings<span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">255</span> +may have inspired the lark to carol so joyously as to +call up the “vision of poor Susan.”</p> + +<p>St. Botolph’s, Aldersgate, has one of the largest +churchyards in the City, but it really consists of four +pieces of land thrown into one in 1892, by a scheme +under the London Parochial Charities, which contributed +part of the purchase-money of some of the +land, and gives £150 a year for the upkeep—£100 +being paid to them by the General Post Office, which +has the right of light over the whole space. One-half +of the churchyard is St. Botolph’s, and the rest +is made up of the burial-grounds of St. Leonard, +Foster Lane, and Christ Church, Newgate Street, +and a strip of land which might have been built +on, but which, under the revised scheme in 1900, +became permanently part of this open space. The +garden is carefully laid out; there are nice plane trees +and a little fountain, regular paths and numerous seats. +A sheltered gallery runs along one side, and in it +are tablets to commemorate deeds of heroism in humble +life—Londoners who lost their lives in saving the lives +of others. The church of St. Botolph was one which +escaped the Fire, but had fallen into such disrepair +that it was rebuilt, by Act of Parliament, in 1754. +The Act specially stipulates that none of the gravestones +were to be removed, but where some of them +are, now that it is a trim garden, it would be hard to +say. Being not far from the General Post Office, this +garden is so much used by its officials during the middle +of the day, it has earned the name of the “Postman’s +Park.”</p> + +<figure id="i_p256" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 31em;"> + <img src="images/i_p256.jpg" width="523" height="752" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p256_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + <span class="smcap">Sun-dial, St. Botolph’s</span> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Another much-frequented but much smaller churchyard +is that of St. Katharine Coleman. Suddenly, in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">257</span> +a corner of crowded Fenchurch Street, comes this +retired shade. The church, with its old high pews, +and tiny graveyard, devoid of monuments, is a peaceful +oasis. These surprises in the densest parts of the +City are very refreshing, and they are too numerous +to mention each individually. Most of them now are +neatly kept, though some look dreary enough. None +of them recall the neglect of half a century ago. +St. Olave’s, Hart Street, in Seething Lane, is perhaps +among the most gloomy. It is the church Pepys +speaks of so often as “our owne church,” and was +one of the churches that escaped the Fire. The archway +with the skulls over it, leads from Seething Lane +to the dismal-looking churchyard. Nothing is done +to alter or brighten this place of many memories. +One shudders to think of what it must have been like +when Pepys crossed it for the first time after the +Great Plague, when he went to the memorial service +for King Charles I., on 30th January 1666. No +wonder he says it “frighted me indeed to go through +the church more than I thought it could have done, +to see so many graves lie so high upon the churchyard, +where people have been buried of the Plague. +I was much troubled about it, and do not think to +go through it again a good while.” The parish +registers show that no less than 326 were interred in this +very small place, during the previous six months, so +Pepys’ feelings were well justified. The old church +has a special interest to lovers of gardens, as in it is +the tomb of William Turner, the author of the first +English Herbal.</p> + +<p>In more than one City churchyard a portion of +the old wall makes its appearance. There is St.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">258</span> +Alphage, London Wall, and Allhallows-in-the-Wall, +where the little gardens by the wall have been formed +with a view to preserving it. The most picturesque +is St. Giles’s, Cripplegate, where Milton is buried. The +graveyard is large, and the ground rises above the +footpath, which was made across it some thirty years +ago, to a bastion of the wall, of rough stones and +flint, which is in its old state, although part of the +wall was rebuilt in 1803. There has been no attempt +here to make it a resting-place for the living, although +it is used as a thoroughfare.</p> + +<figure id="i_p258c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 54em;"> + <img src="images/i_p258c.jpg" width="852" height="569" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p258c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + THE BANK GARDEN + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Few people who have not entered the Bank of England +would suspect it of enclosing an extremely pretty +garden. There the inner courtyard possesses tall lime +trees, gay rhododendrons, and a cool splashing fountain, +with ferns and iris glistening in the spray. It is quite +one of the most delightfully fresh and peaceful corners +on a hot summer’s day, and carries one in imagination to +Italy. Yet this is but another of the many old City +churchyards. The parish of St. Christopher-le-Stocks +was absorbed, with five other parishes, into St. Margaret’s, +Lothbury, in 1781. Some of the tombs, and pictures of +Moses and Aaron, were removed from it, and are still +to be seen in St. Margaret’s, which is crowded with +monuments from all six churches. The Bank was +already in possession of most of the land within the +parish, and by the Act of Parliament of 1781, the church +and churchyard became part of the Bank premises, which +cover nearly three acres. The church site was built +over, but the graveyard became the garden. This +enclosure at first was a simple grass plot, as shown in +an engraving dated 1790. The lime trees may have +been planted soon after, as they appear as large trees<span class="pagenum" id="Page_259">259</span> +sixty years later, and are spoken of in 1855 as two of +the finest lime trees in London. The fountain was put +up in 1852 by Mr. Thomas Hankey, then the governor. +The water for it came from the tanks belonging to the +Bank, supplied by an artesian well 330 feet deep, said to +be very pure, and free from lime. Perhaps that is why +the rhododendrons look so flourishing. Most of the +Bank, as is well known, was the work of the architect Sir +John Soane, but some of the portions built by Sir Robert +Taylor, before his death in 1788, when Soane was appointed +to succeed him, are to be seen in the garden +court. It is said that the last person buried there +was a Bank clerk named Jenkins, who was 7½ feet +in height. He was allowed to rest there, as he feared +he might be disinterred on account of his gigantic +proportions.</p> + +<p>Very different is the churchyard of St. Martin’s, on +Ludgate Hill. It belongs to Stationers’ Hall, and +although it boasts of one fine plane tree, is an untidy, +grimy, dingy little square. By permission of all the +necessary authorities, the coffins (480 in number) were +removed and reverently buried in Brookwood Cemetery +in 1893, a careful register of all the names and dates, +that could be deciphered, being kept. This having +been done, the earth was merely left in an irregular +heap round the tree, and no attempt has been made +to improve in any way the forsaken appearance of the +place.</p> + +<p>This sketch does not aim at being a guide-book, +and it would only be tedious to enumerate the many +churchyards, without as well as within the City, which +of late years have been made worthy “gardens of sleep.” +St. Luke’s, Old Street; St. Leonard’s, Shoreditch;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">260</span> +St. Anne’s, Soho; St. Sepulchre, Holborn, and many +others in every part of the town, from being dreary +and untidy, have become orderly and well kept; and instead +of being unwholesome and unsightly, have become +attractive harbours of refuge in the sea of streets and +houses.</p> +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">261</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XI"><span id="toclink_261"></span><span class="gesperrt">CHAPTER XI</span><br> + +<span class="subhead">INNS OF COURT</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Sweete Themmes! runne softly, till I end my Song.</i></div> + <div class="verse indent2"><i>At length they all to mery London came,</i></div> + </div> + <div class="tb">* * * * *</div> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>There when they came, whereas those brickly towers</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>The which on Themmes brode aged backe doe ryde</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Where now the studious Lawyers have their bowers,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>There whylome wont the Templer Knights to byde,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Till they decayed through pride:</i></div> + </div> + <div class="tb">* * * * *</div> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Sweete Themmes! runne softly, till I end my Song.</i></div> + </div> + <div class="attrib">—<span class="smcap">Spenser</span>: “Prothalamion, or a Spousall Verse.”</div> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="idc idcT"><img src="images/i_idc_t.png" width="180" height="181" alt="T"> +<span class="firstword">There</span> are no more peaceful gardens +in all London than those among +the venerable buildings devoted to +the study of the law. There is +a sense of dignity and repose, the +moment one has entered from the +noisy thoroughfares which surround +these quiet courts. They +may be dark, dull, and dingy, as seen by a Dickens, and +sombre and serious, to those whose business lies there; +but to the ordinary Londoner, who loves the old world +of the City, and the links that bind the present with the +past, there are no more reposeful places than these +gardens. The courts and buildings seem peopled with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">262</span> +those who have worked and lived there. If stones could +speak, what tales some of these could tell!</p> + +<p>The best-known, perhaps, of the gardens are those +belonging to the Inner and Middle Temple, as their +green lawns are visible from the Embankment. They +add greatly to the charm of one of London’s most +beautiful roadways, now, alas! desecrated by the rush of +electric trams, and its fine young trees sacrificed to make +yet more rapid the stream of beings hourly passing +between South London and the City. The modern +whirl of business life can leave nothing untouched in +this age of bustle, money-making, ceaseless toil, and care. +Even pleasures have to be provided by united effort, and +partake of noise and hurry. Thought and contemplation +are hardly counted among the pleasures of life; yet +to those who value them, even to look through the +iron railings on the smooth turf brings a sense of relief. +Even to those who scarcely seem to feel it, the very +existence of these haunts of comparative peace, which +flash on their vision as they hurry by, leaves something, +a subtle influence, a faint impression on the brain. It +must make a difference to a child who knows nothing +beyond the noisy streets and alleys in which its lot is +cast, to hear the rooks caw and the birds sing in the +quiet gardens of Gray’s Inn. It must come as a welcome +relief, even though unperceived and unappreciated, from +the din and clatter in which most of its days are passed. +One cannot be too grateful that it has not been thought +necessary to change and modernise “our English juridical +university.”</p> + +<p>Although the four great Inns of Court are untouched, +the lesser Inns have vanished or are vanishing. Clement’s +Inn has gone. The garden there was small, but had a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">263</span> +special feature of its own—a sun-dial upheld by the kneeling +figure of a blackamoor. This is now preserved in the +Temple Garden, where it appeared soon after Clement’s +Inn was disestablished in 1884. Clement’s Inn, which +appertained to the Inner Temple, was so named from the +Church of St. Clement Danes and St. Clement’s Well, +where “the City Youth on Festival Days used to entertain +themselves with a variety of Diversions.” The sun-dial +is said to have been presented to the Inn by a Holles, +Lord Clare, and some writers state that it was brought +from Italy. It was, however, more probably made in +London by John Van Nost, a Dutch sculptor, who came +to England in William III.’s time, and established himself +in Piccadilly. When he died in 1711 the business +was continued by John Cheere, brother of Sir Henry +Cheere, who executed various monuments in Westminster +Abbey. Similar work is known to have issued from this +studio. At Clifford’s Inn, which was also attached to the +Inner Temple, there is still a vestige of the garden, but it +looks a miserable doomed wreck, a few black trees rising +among heaps of earth and rubbish. It was described in +1756 as “an airy place, and neatly kept; the garden being +inclosed with a pallisado Pale, and adorned with Rows +of Lime trees, set round the gravel Plats and gravel +walks.” Its present forlorn appearance is certainly not +suggestive of its past glories. Barnard’s Inn has been +converted into a school by the Mercers’ Company; it +also has its court and trees on a very small scale. Staples +Inn, so familiar from the timbered, gabled front it presents +to Holborn, carefully preserved by the Prudential +Assurance Company, its present owners, still has its +quiet little quadrangle of green at the back. It was of +that Dickens wrote such an inimitable description. “It<span class="pagenum" id="Page_264">264</span> +is one of those nooks, the turning into which out of the +clashing streets imparts to the relieved pedestrian the +sensation of having put cotton in his ears and velvet soles +on his boots.” Furnival’s, Thavies’, and all the other +Inns famous in olden days, have disappeared, and their +quiet little gardens with them.</p> + +<p>The Temple Gardens are larger now than in the +earlier days of their history, as then there was nothing +to keep the Thames within its channel at high tide. +The landing steps from the river were approached by +a causeway of arches across the muddy banks. It was +not until 1528 that a protecting wall was built, and a +pathway ran outside the wall between it and the river. +Gardens must have existed on this site from a very +early date. When the Templars moved there from +Holborn and built the church in 1185, it was all open +country round, with a few great houses and conventual +buildings standing in their own orchards and gardens. +After the suppression of the Order, it was in the hands +of Aimer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, and in 1324 +the land was given to the Knights of St. John. As +they had their own buildings and church not far off, +they granted it “to the Students of the Common Lawes +of England: in whose possession the same hath sithence +remained.” All the consecrated land, and all within the +City, was included in the grant to the Knights of St. +John: besides this there was some land outside the City, +or the Outer Temple, part of which remained in secular +hands, and in later times was covered by Essex House, +with its famous gardens. The section belonging to the +Law Societies, beyond the City, is spoken of in early +records as the Outer Garden, and from time to time +buildings were erected on it—at first under protest,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_265">265</span> +as in 1565 there was an order “for the plucking down +of a study newly erected,” and again in 1567, “the +nuisance made by Woodye, by building his house in +the Outer Garden, shall be abated and plucked down, +or as much thereof as is upon Temple ground.” All +this garden has long ago been completely built over, +and the large spaces now forming the Temple Gardens +are those anciently known as the “Great Garden,” +belonging to the Inner Temple and the Middle Temple +Garden. The Outer Temple (never another Inn) was +merely the ground outside the limits of the City.</p> + +<p>The long green slopes down to the Embankment, +are much larger than the older gardens, as the wall +which was built in 1528 to keep out the river, cut +across from where No. 10 King’s Bench Walk now +stands. The wall must have been a vast improvement, +and was greatly appreciated. In 1534 a vote of thanks +was passed by the “parliament” of the Inner Temple +to the late Treasurer, John Parkynton, who had “takyn +many and sundrie payns in the buylding of the walle +betwene the Thamez and the garden,” for which +“greate dyligens” they gave unto him “hartey thankes.” +And, indeed, the garden must sorely have needed this +protection. It is difficult to picture the Temple in +the sixteenth century, and the little gardens must +have been as bewildering as the present courts and +buildings. In the records there are references to various +gardens, no doubt small enclosures like the present +courts, besides the Great Garden and the kitchen-garden. +There was the nut garden, perhaps adorned +with nut trees, as Fig-tree Court probably was with +figs. There is more than one record of payments for +attending to the fig-tree or painting rails round it.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_266">266</span> +In 1610, just at the time James I. brought them into +notice, a mulberry was “set in Fairfield’s Court.” In +1605 seats were set “about the trees in Hare’s Court”; +thus all the courts were more or less little gardens. +In 1510 a chamber is assigned to some one “in the +garden called le Olyvaunte.” This was probably the +Elephant, from a sign carved or painted to distinguish +a particular house facing it. There was similarly “le +Talbott,” probably from a greyhound sign, in another +court. The houses facing the Great Garden apparently +had steps descending into it from the chief rooms, +and it was a special privilege to have your staircase +opening on to it. Thus, “May 1573, Mr. Wyott and +Mr. Hall, licensed to have ‘a steeyrs’ (stairs) from +their chamber into the garden.” The Great Garden +was constantly being encroached on as new chambers +were built. Entries in the records with regard to permission +to build into the garden often occur; for +<span class="locked">instance—</span></p> + +<p>“1581. Thomas Compton ... to build ... within +the compass of the garden or little Court ... from the +south corner of the brick wall of the said garden ... +57 feet ... and from the said wall into the garden +22 feet.”</p> + +<p>On one occasion a license to build was exceeded, and +the offence further aggravated by cutting down “divers +timber trees.” The offender was at first put out of +commons, and fined £20, which was afterwards mitigated +to £5, with the addition of a most wise proviso, that +“he shall plant double the number of trees he caused +to be cut down.” Would that the fault of felling +timber always met with the same punishment!</p> + +<p>When houses were put on the site of the present<span class="pagenum" id="Page_267">267</span> +Paper Buildings in 1610, the Great Garden was cut in +two, and the eastern portion went to form the broad +stretch with its trees known as King’s Bench Walk. +Elm trees were planted, and the walks and seats under +them repaired from time to time, and kept in good +order. The part to the west was carefully tended, and +became from that year the chief garden. In James I.’s +reign, that age of gardening, when every house of any +pretensions was having its garden enlarged, and Bacon +was laying out the grounds of Gray’s Inn, the Temple +was not behind-hand. The accounts show constant +repairs and additions and buying of trees. The items +for painting posts and rails are very frequent. Probably +they do not always refer to outer palings, but it +may be that the Tudor fashion of railing round the +beds, with a low trellis and posts at the angles, still +prevailed. One of the largest items of the expenses +was for making “the pound” in 1618. This, it is +said, was a pond, but no record of digging it out, or +filling it with water occurs, while all the payments +in connection with it went to painters or carpenters, +and therefore it was more probably a kind of garden-house, +much in favour at that time, made by the wall, +to command a view over the river. The chief items +with regard to it <span class="locked">are:—</span></p> + +<p>“1618, To John Fielde, the carpenter, for making +‘the pound’ in the garden, £19.”</p> + +<p>“To Bowden, the painter, for stopping and ‘refreshing’ +the rails in the ‘wakes’ (walks), the posts, seats +and balusters belonging to the same, and for stopping +and finishing the ‘pound’ by the waterside, £9, 10s.”</p> + +<p>Again in 1639 the entry certainly implies some kind +of summer-house and not “a pond”: “Edward Simmes,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_268">268</span> +carpenter, for repairing ‘the pound’ and other seats in +the garden and walks, &c., £15, 8s.” There must have +been another summer-house at the same time, unless the +sums paid to a plasterer “for work done about the +summer-house in the garden,” in 1630, refers to the +same “pound.”</p> + +<p>A great deal seems to have been done to the Garden +during the first few years of the Commonwealth, and +large sums were expended in procuring new gravel and +turf: “392 loads of gravel at 2s. 6d. the load” is one +entry. But the chief work was the re-turfing. An +arrangement was made, by payment of various small +sums to the poor of Greenwich, to cut 3000 turfs on +Blackheath, and convey them in lighters to the Temple +Stairs. A second transaction procured them 2000 +more, each turf being a foot broad and a yard long. +These amounts would cover a third of an acre with +turf. The head gardeners seem to have been particularly +unruly people. Although they remained in +office many years, there were frequent complaints. On +one occasion this official had cut down trees, another +time he had the plague, and his house was frequented +by rogues and beggars. At first the gardener’s house +was on the present King’s Bench Walk side of the +Garden, near the river; later on, near where Harcourt +Buildings are now. In 1690 the house, then in Middle +Temple Lane, was turned into an ale-house, and evidently +none of the quietest, for the occupier was forbidden +to sell drink, and the “door out of the gardener’s +lodge towards the water gate” was ordered to be bricked +up, so as to prevent all the riffraff from the river rioting +in his rooms. Yet the post descended from father +to son. In 1687 Thomas Elliott succeeded his father,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_269">269</span> +Seth Elliott, who had been there some years, and when +in 1708 Charles Gardner had taken the second Elliott’s +place, his daughter Elizabeth’s name occurs as a recipient +of money, and Elliott himself received a pension of £20 +a-year, although he was the culprit of the riotous ale-house. +During the years succeeding the Restoration, the +Garden seems to have been little touched. The kitchen-garden +would still be maintained, and either it was +farmed by the gardener, or its supplies were inadequate, +as on fast-days there was always a special payment to the +gardener for vegetables. Such items as the following are +of frequent occurrence: “Sallating for the hall in grass +week, strewings and ‘bow pots’ for the hall in Easter +and Trinity terms.”</p> + +<p>Though the French fashions in gardening of Charles +II.’s reign do not seem to have affected the Temple precincts, +yet the Dutch influence that came in with +William and Mary made itself felt. A small garden +was specially set apart for the Benchers, and done up +entirely in the prevailing style. A piece of ground +between King’s Bench Office and Serjeants’ Inn was made +use of for this. It had been let to the Alienation Office, +but after the Great Fire the Temple resumed the control +of it, and finally did it up and replanted it for the use +of the Benchers. It was known as the “Benchers’,” the +“Little” or the “Privy” Garden, and great care, +attention, and money were expended on it. Turf, +gravel, and plants were bought; a sun-dial put on +the wall; orange trees set out in tubs; and a fountain +erected in the middle. This fountain must have been +the chief feature of the Garden, and from the immense +amount of care it required to keep it in order, it seems +that it was one of those elaborate “waterworks,” without<span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">270</span> +which no garden was then complete. Such fountains +were made with secret arrangements for turning on the +water, which dropped from birds’ bills, or spurted out of +dolphins or such-like, with an unpleasant suddenness +which gave the unwary visitor a shower-bath. Other +fountains played tunes or set curious machinery in +motion, or otherwise surprised the beholder. From +the descriptions, this one in the Benchers’ Garden +doubtless concealed some original variation. It consisted +of a lion’s face with a copper scallop shell, and +a copper cherry-tree with branches, and perhaps the +water dropped from the leaves. One payment in 1700 +occurs for “a new scallop shell to the fountain, for a +cock and a lion’s face to draw the water out of the +fountain, and for keeping the fountain in repair, £12.” +The copper cherry-tree was painted, and perhaps the +Pegasus—the arms of the Inner Temple—figured in the +strange medley, as the cost of painting the tree and “gilding +the horse” are together paid to the man “Fowler,” +who had charge of the fountain. The “best way to +bring the water” had to be carefully considered for +these “waterworks” which Fowler was designing and +carrying out, and it evidently was brought up to the +pitch of perfection required of a fountain in those days. +There was also a summer-house with a paved floor, and +an alcove with seats. Altogether, even without the +glories of the strange fountain, the little enclosed Dutch +garden must have been an attractive place.</p> + +<figure id="i_p270c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 47em;"> + <img src="images/i_p270c.jpg" width="747" height="545" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p270c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + THE INNER TEMPLE GARDEN + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>While the Benchers’ Garden was being made, the +Great Garden was not neglected. Its form was altered +to suit the prevailing taste. This remodelling must +have begun in the winter of 1703, as it was then resolved +that “the trees in the Great Garden be cut down, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">271</span> +the Garden to be put in the same model as the gardener +hath proposed.” The delightful terrace, which is still +one of the most beautiful features in the Garden, existed +before these alterations began, but the sun-dial which still +adorns it was added during these changes. The payment +for it was made to Strong, who was contractor for +St. Paul’s under Wren: “To Edward Strong, for the +pedestal for the dial in the Great Garden steps, &c., +£25.” The beautiful gates of wrought iron were put +up in 1730. The design shows the arms of Gray’s Inn, +as well as the winged horse of the Inner Temple, in +compliment to the other learned society, its close ally. +In the same way the Pegasus occurs at Gray’s Inn. It +was probably along this terrace that some of the orange +trees in pots were placed during the summer. The pots +in which these oranges and other “greens” were grown +seem to have been specially decorative. It was a serious +offence when Allgood, a member of the Inn, broke some, +and was obliged to “furnish other pots of like fashion +and value,” otherwise he would “be put out of commons.” +After this others were purchased, as the payment +of £8 was made “for a large mould, carved in +wood, for casting of earthen pots for the Garden”; +and in other years further similar expenses occur, one in +1690 “to the potter for a large pot made for the Garden, +painted in oil, £1, 5s.” Some of the plants grown +would stand the winter in the open, but after the oranges +made their appearance a shelter had to be provided. +Green-houses owed their origin to this necessity, and as +they were only used in winter, and merely sheltered the +large pots of “greens,” these green-houses or orangeries +were built like rooms, and used as summer-houses during +warm months. All the larger gardens had their green-houses,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">272</span> +but the smaller proprietors frequently sent their +plants away to a nurseryman to be housed during the +winter. Even the “greens” at Kensington Palace were +kept by London and Wise, until the new orangery was +built. The Temple orange trees were first sent to the +house of Cadrow at Islington. In 1704 the green-house +seems to have been made, and used as a garden-house in +summer. Such items in the accounts as “a chimney-glass +and sconces for the green-house” show that it was +in the usual solid architectural style then in fashion. +That the “panierman,” an officer, one of whose duties +was to summon members to meals by blowing a horn, +was appointed to take charge of it as well as of the library, +is a further proof that it bore the character of a room, +and was more or less outside the gardener’s department. +The panierman also had the care of the elaborate fountain, +after it had been supervised for some years by the +maker. This green-house stood at the end of the terrace, +which still runs parallel with Crown Office Row, and +near the site of Harcourt Buildings, behind the gardener’s +house. This gardener’s house was pulled down +two or three years later to make way for Harcourt +Buildings, which was joined to the summer-house. The +first or ground floor opened on to the garden below the +“paved walk” or terrace, on which level stood the +summer-house.</p> + +<p>The most fascinating feature of a garden ought to +be its flowers, and of these also some particulars can be +gleaned from the accounts. There is enough to show +that the Temple Garden was quite up to date in its horticulture, +and that it followed fashion as closely in its +plants as in its design. It is not surprising to find Dutch +bulbs, and especially tulips, being bought when such a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">273</span> +lover of those flowers as Sir Thomas Hanmer was a +member. He was one of those who devoted much time +to the culture of that flower, when the tulip mania was +at its height, and raised new varieties, which were known +by his name, “the agate Hanmer.” In 1703 the list of +bulbs purchased is carefully noted. There were “200 +‘junquiles’ at 6s. a hundred; for 200 tulips at 5s. a +hundred; for 100 yellow Dutch crocus, for 50 Armathagalum.” +The spelling of “junquiles” is much more +correct than our modern “jonquil,” and all the old +writers would have written it so. Parkinson, in 1629, +describes them as “Narcissus juncifolius” or the “Junquilia +or Rush Daffodill”; but “Ornithogalum” was too +much for the Temple scribe. The “Ornithogalum” or +“Starre of Bethlehem,” and probably one of the rarer +varieties, must be meant by “Armathagalum.” The +Arabian variety was then “nursed in gardens,” but it +should be “housed all the winter, that so it may bee +defended from the frosts,” wrote Parkinson, and sadly +admitted that the two roots sent to him “out of Spain” +had “prospered not” “for want of knowledge” of this +“rule.” There was also the “Starre flower of Æthiopia,” +which “was gathered by some Hollanders on the +West side of the Cape of Good Hope”; and this is more +likely to have been the variety bought for the Temple +with the other Dutch bulbs. Among the other purchases +were various shrubs, on which the topiary art was +then commonly practised. There were “15 yew trees +for the Great Garden in pots, ... 4 box trees for the +grass plots, ... 12 striped ‘fillerayes’”—this latter being +variegated phillyreas (most likely <i class="flora" lang="la">angustifolia</i>), which were +largely used for cutting into quaint shapes. Another +account is for “28 standard laurels, 4 ‘perimic’ (laurels),<span class="pagenum" id="Page_274">274</span> +6 junipers, 4 hollies, and 2 perimic box trees.” These +“perimetric” trees had already gone through the necessary +clipping and training, to enable them to take their +place in the trim Dutch garden. Another year flowering +shrubs are got for the Benchers’ Garden: “2 messerius +at 2s., and 2 lorrestines at 2s.” The <i class="flora" lang="la">Daphne mezereum</i> +had been a favourite in English gardens from the earliest +times, and the laurestinus (<i class="flora" lang="la">Viburnum tinus</i>) came from +South Europe in the sixteenth century. Parkinson, the +most attractive of all the old gardening authors, has a +delightfully true description of the “Laurus Tinus,” with +its “many small white sweete-smelling flowers thrusting +together, ... the edges whereof have a shew of a wash +purple or light blush in them; which for the most part +fall away without bearing any perfect ripe fruit in our +countrey: yet sometimes it hath small black berries, as if +they were good, but are not”! Fruit-trees were also to +be found—peaches, “nectrons,” cherries, and plums, +besides figs and mulberries. That the walls were +covered with climbing roses and jessamine is certain, +from the oft-recurring cost of nailing them up. “Nails +and list for the jessamy wall,” and the needful bits of +old felt required to fasten them up, was another time +supplied by “hatt parings for the jessamines.”</p> + +<p>Thus it is easy, bit by bit, out of the old accounts, +to piece together the Garden, until the mind’s eye can see +back into the days of Queen Anne, and take an imaginary +walk through it on a fine spring evening. The Bencher +walks out of the large window of the “green-house” on +to the terrace, where the sun-dial points the hour: the +orange trees, glossy and fresh from their winter quarters, +stand in stiff array, in the large artistic pots. Down the +steps, a few stiff beds are bright with Dutch bulbs in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">275</span> +flower. The turf, well rolled (for a new stone roller has +just been purchased), stretches down to the river between +straight lines of quaintly cut box, yews, and hollies. +He sees Surrey hills clear in the early evening light, and +the barges sail by, and boats pass up and down the river. +He may linger on one of the seats in the garden-house +overlooking the river, or wander back under the stately +elms of King’s Bench Walk, to rest awhile in the Privy +Garden, where the air is scented with mezereum, and +cooled by the drops that fall from the metal leaves +hanging over the basin of the fountain.</p> + +<p>The Middle Temple, too, had its Benchers’ Garden, +and part of it survives to this day in the delightful +Fountain Court. The Benchers’ Garden was larger, +covering the ground where Garden Court now stands, +up to the wall of the famous gardens of Essex House. +A garden covered the space where the library has been +built, and the terrace and steps in front of the fountain +reached right across to the Essex House wall. Below +the beautiful old hall which Queen Elizabeth opened in +person, and where Shakespeare’s contemporaries witnessed +“Twelfth Night,” lay the rest of the Garden, with green +lawns and shady trees down the water’s edge. The +fountain, once the glory of the Benchers’ private garden, +is still one of the most delightful in all London. Sir +Christopher Hatton, whose garden of Ely Place—wrung +by Queen Elizabeth from the unwilling Bishop—was +not far off, was an admirer of the Middle Temple +fountain. It was kept, he says, “in so good order as +always to force its stream to a vast and almost incredible +altitude. It is fenced with timber palisades, constituting +a quadrangle, wherein grow several lofty trees, +and without are walks extending on every side of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_276">276</span> +the quadrangle, all paved with Purbeck, very pleasant +and delightful.” In an eighteenth-century picture, with +groups of strollers and a lady passing the gay company +in her sedan chair, the palings are superseded by fine +iron railings enclosing the lofty jet, its marble basin, and +shady trees. The pavement ended with the terrace wall +overlooking the garden below, and the Thames covered +at high tide what is now the lower part of the lawn. +The Fountain Court has inspired many a thought which +has found expression in prose and verse, but no picture +is more vivid or well known than the figure of Ruth +Pinch, in “Martin Chuzzlewit,” waiting for her brother +“with the best little laugh upon her face that ever +played in opposition to the fountain,” or the description +at the end, of that crowning day to her happiness, when +she walks there with John Westlock, and “Brilliantly +the Temple Fountain splashed in the sun, and laughingly +its liquid music played, and merrily the idle drops of +water danced and danced, and peeping out in sport +among the trees, plunged lightly down to hide themselves, +as little Ruth and her companion came towards +it.” The fountain has suffered some modernising +changes since Dickens wrote those lines; but in spite of +them there is still music in its sound, which calls up +dreams of other ages and of brighter gardens as it +tosses its spray into the murky air.</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“Away in the distance is heard the vast sound</div> + <div class="verse indent0">From the streets of the city that compass it round,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Like the echo of mountains or ocean’s deep call:</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Yet that fountain’s low singing is heard over all.”</div> + </div> + <div class="attrib">—<span class="smcap">Miss Landon.</span></div> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Of all the incidents that are associated with particular +places, none stands out more vividly than the scene told<span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">277</span> +by Shakespeare, of the first beginning to the Wars of the +Roses in the Temple Garden.</p> + +<figure id="i_p276c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 53em;"> + <img src="images/i_p276c.jpg" width="841" height="554" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p276c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + THE FOUNTAIN COURT, MIDDLE TEMPLE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Richard Plantagenet, with the Earls of Somerset, +Suffolk, and Warwick, Vernon, and a lawyer, enter the +Temple Garden (“Henry VI.” Pt. I. Act 2, sc. iv.).</p> + +<div id="dialog"> +<p class="speaker"><i>Suffolk.</i></p> +<p class="dialog">Within the Temple Hall we were too loud;<br> +The garden here is more convenient.</p> + +<p class="speaker"><i>Plantagenet.</i></p> +<p class="dialog">Then say at once if I maintained the truth,<br> +Or else was wrangling Somerset in the error?</p> + +<div class="tb">* * * * *</div> + +<p class="p1 b1">The direct answer being evaded, Plantagenet <span class="locked">continues—</span></p> + +<p class="dialog">Since you are tongue-tied and so loath to speak,<br> +In dumb significants proclaim your thoughts;<br> +Let him that is a true-born gentleman,<br> +And stands upon the honour of his birth,<br> +If he suppose that I have pleaded truth,<br> +From off this brier pluck a white rose with me.</p> + +<p class="speaker"><i>Somerset.</i></p> +<p class="dialog">Let him that is no coward nor no flatterer,<br> +But dare maintain the party of the truth,<br> +Pluck a red rose from off this thorn with me.</p> + +<div class="tb">* * * * *</div> + +<p class="speaker"><i>Warwick.</i></p> +<p class="dialog">I pluck this white rose with Plantagenet.</p> + +<p class="speaker"><i>Suffolk.</i></p> +<p class="dialog">I pluck this red rose with young Somerset.</p> + +<div class="tb">* * * * *</div> + +<p class="speaker"><i>Vernon.</i></p> +<p class="dialog">I pluck this pale and maiden blossom here,<br> +Giving my verdict on the white rose side.</p> + +<div class="tb">* * * * *</div> + +<p class="speaker"><i>Lawyer</i> (to <i>Somerset</i>)</p> +<p class="dialog">... The argument you held was wrong in you,<br> +In sign whereof I pluck a white rose too.</p> + +<p class="speaker"><i>Plan.</i></p> +<p class="dialog">Now, Somerset, where is your argument?</p> + +<p class="speaker"><i>Som.</i></p> +<p>Here, in my scabbard, meditating that<br> +Shall dye your white rose in a bloody red.</p> + +<div class="tb">* * * * *</div> + +<p class="speaker"><i>Plan.</i></p> +<p class="dialog">Hath not thy rose a canker, Somerset?</p> + +<p class="speaker"><i>Som.</i></p> +<p class="dialog">Hath not thy rose a thorn, Plantagenet?</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_278">278</span><br></p> + +<p class="speaker"><i>Plan.</i></p> +<p class="dialog">Ay, sharp and piercing to maintain his truth;<br> +Whiles thy consuming canker eats his falsehood.</p> + +<p class="speaker"><i>Som.</i></p> +<p class="dialog">Well, I’ll find friends to wear my bleeding roses,<br> +That shall maintain what I have said is true.</p> + +<div class="tb">* * * * *</div> + +<p class="speaker"><i>Warwick.</i></p> +<p class="dialog">And here I prophesy this brawl to-day,<br> +Grown to this faction in the Temple-garden,<br> +Shall send between the red rose and the white<br> +A thousand souls to death and deadly night.</p> +</div> + +<p>With such a tradition the Temple Garden should +never be without its roses. They are one of those +friendly plants which will do their best to fight against +fog and smoke, and flower boldly for two or three years +in succession: so a supply of red and white, and the +delightful <i class="flora" lang="la">Rosa mundi</i>, the “York and Lancaster,” +could without much difficulty be seen there every +summer. Certainly some of the finest roses in existence +have been in the Temple Gardens, as the Flower Shows, +which are looked forward to by all lovers of horticulture, +have for many years been permitted to take place in these +historic grounds. How astonished those adherents of +the red or white roses would have been to see the colours, +shades, and forms which the descendants of those briars +now produce. The Plantagenet Garden would not contain +many varieties, although every known one was +cherished in every garden, as roses have always been first +favourites. Besides the briars, dog roses, and sweet +briars, there was the double white and double red, a +variety of <i class="flora" lang="la">Rosa gallica</i>. Many so-called old-fashioned +roses, such as the common monthly roses, came to England +very much later, and the vast number of gorgeous +hybrids are absolutely new. Elizabethan gardens had a +fair show of roses with centifolia, including moss and +Provence roses, and York and Lancaster, <i class="flora" lang="la">Rosa lutea</i>, musk,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_279">279</span> +damask, and cinnamon roses in several varieties; and as +the old records show, the Temple Garden was well supplied +with roses. All these probably flourished there in the +days of Shakespeare, and would readily suggest the scene +he immortalised.</p> + +<p>Among the spirits that haunt the Temple Garden, +there is none that seems to cling to it more than that of +Charles Lamb. It should be a pride of these peaceful +gardens that they helped to mould that lovable and +unselfish character. A schoolfellow, who describes his +ways as a boy at Christ’s Hospital, recalls how all his +young days were spent in the solemn surrounding of the +Temple, and how, while at school, “On every half holiday +(and there were two in the week), in ten minutes he was +in the gardens, on the terrace, or at the fountain of the +Temple. Here was his home, here his recreation; and +the influence they had on his infant mind is vividly +shown in his description of the old Benchers.”</p> + +<p>“Shadows we are and like shadows depart,” suggests +the sun-dial on the wall of Pump Court, but shadows of +such gentle spirits as Charles Lamb leave something +behind, and those “footprints on the sands of time” +are nowhere more traceable than in these solemn +precincts of law with their quiet, restful gardens.</p> + +<p>The attractions of the Temple are so great, one feels +loth to cross the noisy thoroughfare and plunge +through the traffic till the stately old gateway out of +Chancery Lane, on which Ben Jonson is said to have +worked, affords an opening towards the spacious gardens +of Lincoln’s Inn.</p> + +<p>Lincoln’s Inn Gardens have a special claim to +antiquity as they are partly on the site of the famous +garden of the Earl of Lincoln, of which some of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_280">280</span> +accounts are preserved in a splendid big old manor roll +now at the Record Office. It is supposed that at his +death in 1311, Henry de Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, +assigned these lands to the “Professors of the Law as a +residence.” Additions were made later from the ground +belonging to the Bishop of Chichester, round the palace +which Ralph Neville had built in 1228. Part of the +site was the “coney garth,” which belonged to one +William Cotterell, and hence is often mentioned as +“Cotterell’s Garden.” Garden of course only meant a +garth or yard, and though the name now signifies an +enclosure for plants, in early times other enclosures +were common. There was the “grass yard” or lawn, +the “cook’s garth” or kitchen-garden, and “coney +garth” where rabbits were kept, as well as the “wyrt +yard” or plant yard, the “ort yard” or orchard, apple +yard, cherry yard, and so on. The coney garth was not +a mere name, but was well stocked with game, and even +at a much later date, from Edward IV. to Henry VIII., +there were various ordinances in force for punishing law +students who hunted rabbits with bows and arrows or +darts.</p> + +<figure id="i_p280c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 35em;"> + <img src="images/i_p280c.jpg" width="555" height="691" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p280c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + LINCOLN’S INN + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>In the first year of Queen Elizabeth the Garden was +separated from the fields by a clay embankment, and a +little later a brick wall was added, with a gate into the +fields, which is probably the same as the present little +gate to the north of the new hall, at the end of the +border, shown in the illustration. The Garden continued +much further along the wall then, and only was curtailed +when the new hall and library were built in 1843. +The delightful terrace which is raised against the wall +overlooking the “fields” was made in 1663. On June +27th of that year, Pepys, who on other occasions<span class="pagenum" id="Page_281">281</span> +mentions his walks there with his wife, went to see the +alterations. “So to Lincoln’s Inne, and there walked +up and down to see the new garden which they are +making, and will be very pretty.” The outside world +seems to have had easy access to the gardens of all the +Inns of Court in those days, but it was regarded as a +special privilege granted to a very wide circle, and a +favour not accorded to the public at large. In the +<cite>Tatler</cite> occur such passages as, “I went into Lincoln’s +Inn walks, and having taken a round or two I sat down +according to the allowed familiarity of these places.” +Again, “I was last week taking a solitary walk in the +garden of Lincoln’s Inn, a favour that is indulged me by +several of the benchers who are my intimate friends.”</p> + +<p>They were, however, so much frequented by all the +fashionable world of London, that the foreigner arriving +there naturally took them for public gardens. Mr. +Grosley, who came to London in 1765, thus describes +<span class="locked">them:—</span></p> + +<p>“Besides St. James’s Park, the Green Park, and Hyde +Park, the two last of which are continuations of the first, +which, like the Tuileries at Paris, lie at the extremity of +the metropolis, London has several public walks, which +are much more agreeable to the English, as they are less +frequented and more solitary than the Park. Such are +the gardens contained within the compass of the Temple, +of Gray’s Inn and Lincoln’s Inn. They consist of grass +plots, which are kept in excellent order, and planted with +trees, either cut regularly, or with high stocks: some of +them have a part laid out for culinary uses. The grass +plots of the gardens at Lincoln’s Inn are adorned with +statues, which, taken all together, form a scene very +pleasing to the eye.”</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">282</span></p> + +<p>The students must certainly have aimed at keeping +their gardens from the vulgar gaze, and showed their +displeasure at some one who had built a house with +windows overlooking the Garden in 1632 in an uproarious +manner. They flung brickbats at the offending window +until “one out of the house discharged haile shot upon +Mr. Attornie’s sonne’s face, which though by good chance +it missed his eyes yet it pitifully mangled his visage.”</p> + +<p>Old maps of the gardens show a wall dividing the +large upper garden from the smaller, but by 1772 the +partition had disappeared. It was doubtless unnecessary +when the terrace was made and the rabbits done away +with.</p> + +<p>The 1658 map with the wall in it shows the upper +garden intersected by four paths, and an avenue of trees +round three sides, and the small garden with a single row +of trees round it divided into two large grass plots. +The lovely shady avenue below the terrace in the large +garden has still a great charm, and although not so +extensive as it once was, the great green-sward and walks +seem very spacious in these days of crowding. The +terrace overlooking Lincoln’s Inn Fields, with the broad +walk and border of suitable old-fashioned herbaceous +plants, has great attractions. The view from here must +have improved since the days when the Fields were a +wild-looking place of evil repute, and the scene of bloody +executions. In the lonely darkness below the terrace wall, +deeds of violence were only too common.</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“Though thou are tempted by the linkman’s call,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Yet trust him not along the lonely wall.</div> + <div class="verse indent0">In the mid-way he’ll quench the flaming brand,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">And share the booty with the pilfering band.”</div> + </div> + <div class="attrib">—<span class="smcap">Gay.</span></div> +</div> +</div> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_283">283</span></p> +<p>Certainly when one is sentimental over the departed +charms of Old London, it would be an excellent antidote +to call up some of the inconveniences that electric light +and the metropolitan police have banished.</p> + +<p>There is more character about the gardens of Gray’s +Inn than either the Temple or Lincoln’s Inn. They have +come down with but little alteration from the hands of +that great lover of gardens, Bacon. But long before his +time gardens existed. The land on which Gray’s Inn +stands formed part of a prebend of St. Paul’s of the +manor of Portpoole, and subsequently belonged to the +family of Grey de Wilton, and in the fourteenth century +the Inn of Court was established. Between its grounds +and the villages of Highgate and Hampstead was an +unbroken stretch of open country. There, in Mary’s +reign, Henry Lord Berkeley used daily to hunt “in Gray’s +Inne fields and in those parts towards Islington and Heygate +with his hounds,” and in his company were “many +gentlemen of the Innes of Court and others of lower +condition ... and 150 servants in livery that daily +attended him in their tawny coates.” In Bacon’s time +it must still have been as open, and Theobald’s Road a +country lane with hedgerows. The Garden already +boasted of fine trees, and among the records of the +Society there is a list of the elms in 1583 all carefully enumerated, +and the exact places they were growing: “In +the grene Courte xi Elmes and iii Walnut trees,” and so +on. Eighty-seven elms, besides four young elms and one +young ash, appear on the list; so the Garden was well furnished +with trees even before Bacon commenced his work. +Gray’s Inn was the most popular of the four Inns of Court +in the Elizabethan period, and many famous men, such +as Lord Burghley, belonged to it. It was in 1597 that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_284">284</span> +Bacon took the Garden in hand, some ten years after +he became a Bencher. In the accounts of that year +£7. 15s. 4d. appears “due to Mr. Bacon for planting +of trees in the walkes.” In 1598 it was resolved to +“supply more yonge elme trees in the places of such as +are decayed, and that a new Rayle and quicksett hedge +be sett upon the upper long walke at the good discretion +of Mr. Bacon, and Mr. Wilbraham, soe that the charges +thereof doe not exceed the sum of seventy pounds.” On +29th April 1600, £60. 6s. 8d. was paid to “Mr. Bacon +for money disbursed about garnishing of the walkes.”</p> + +<p>Bacon’s own ideas of what a garden should be +are so delightfully set forth in his essay on gardens, +that the whole as it left his hand is not difficult to +imagine. The fair alleys, the great hedge, were +essentials, and the green, “because nothing is more +pleasant to the eye than green grass kept finely shorn.” +His list of plants which bloom in all the months of +the year was compiled of those specially suited “for +the Climate of London,” so no doubt some would +be included in this Garden under his eye, although +they do not appear in the records. He wished “also +in the very middle a fair mount,” and even this desire +he carried out in Gray’s Inn. In a description of the +Garden as late as 1761, a summer-house which Bacon +put up in 1609 to the memory of his friend Jeremiah +Bettenham is mentioned as only recently destroyed. +“Till lately,” it says, “there was a summer-house +erected by the great Sir Francis Bacon upon a small +mount: it was open on all sides, and the roof supported +by slender pillars. A few years ago the uninterrupted +prospect of the neighbouring fields, as far as the hills +of Highgate and Hampstead, was obstructed by a handsome<span class="pagenum" id="Page_285">285</span> +row of houses on the north; since which the above +summer-house has been levelled, and many trees cut +down to lay the Garden more open.” The view, even +then, was fairly open, as Sir Samuel Romilly, in 1780, +complains of the cold, as there was “only one row +of houses” between him and Hampstead, and “a north-west +wind blows full against” his chambers. This +“most gallant prospect into the country, and its +beautiful walks” were the great attractions of these +Gardens. They appear to have been one of the most +fashionable walks, especially on Sundays. Pepys was +frequently there, and his diary records, several times, +that he went to morning church, then had dinner, +then to church again, and after went for a walk +in Gray’s Inn. That he met there “great store of +gallants,” or “saw many beauties,” is the usual comment +after a visit. On one occasion, he took his wife there +to “observe the fashions of the ladies,” because she +was “making some clothes.” The walks and trees +are redolent with associations, and the Gardens, though +curtailed, have much the same appearance as of yore. +When a portion of the ground was sacrificed to the +new buildings, those who loved the Garden deeply +bewailed. “Those accursed Verulam Buildings,” wrote +Charles Lamb, recalling his early walks in Gray’s Inn +Gardens, “had not encroached upon all the east side +of them, cutting out delicate green crankles, and +shouldering away one of two stately alcoves of the +terrace. The survivor stands gaping and relationless, +as if it remembered its brother. They are still the +best gardens of any of the Inns of Court—my beloved +Temple not forgotten—have the gravest character, +their aspect being altogether reserved and law-breathing.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_286">286</span> +Bacon has left the impress of his foot upon their +gravel walks.”</p> + +<p>After such a delightful summary of their charms +it seems cruel to try and dispel one of their most +treasured traditions—namely, that Bacon planted the +catalpa. It is a splendid and venerable tree, and +there is no wish to pull it from its proud position of +the first catalpa planted, and the finest in existence +in this country; but it is hard to believe that Bacon +planted it, in the light of the history of the plant. +There is no mention of a catalpa in any of the +earlier writers—Gerard did not know it, and it is not +in the later edition of his work by Thomas Johnson, +in 1633, or in Parkinson’s “Paradisus,” in 1629, or in +Evelyn’s “Sylva,” in 1664, all published after Bacon’s +death.</p> + +<p>The tree was first described by Catesby in his +“Natural History of Carolina,” a splendid folio which +appeared in 1731. There it is classed as <i class="flora" lang="la">Bignonia +urucu foliis</i>, or <i class="flora" lang="la">Catalpa</i>, as it was not until later that +Jussieu separated the genus <i class="flora" lang="la">Catalpa</i>. He says the +tree was not known to the inhabitants of Carolina +till the seeds “were brought there from the remoter +parts of the country,” “and though the inhabitants +are little curious in gardening, the uncommon beauty +of this tree induced them to propagate it, and it is +become an ornament to many of their gardens, and +probably will be the same to ours in England, it being +as hardy as most of our American plants: many of +them, now at Mr. Bacon’s, at Hoxton, having stood +out several winters without any protection, except the +first year.” Hoxton was then a place famous for its +nursery gardens. In 1767, in Catesby’s volume on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_287">287</span> +the trees of North America, he gives the same story, +and adds, “in August 1748” it produced, “at Mr. +Gray’s, such numbers of blossoms, that the leaves were +almost hid thereby.” This Mr. Gray owned the +nurseries in Brompton, famous under the management +of London and Wise.</p> + +<p>In Philip Miller’s dictionary, Catesby’s history of +the plant is referred to, and also in 1808, in the +<i>Botanical Magazine</i>, when the plant was figured. +There it says the plant “has been long an inhabitant +of our gardens, being introduced by the same Botanist +[Catesby] about the year 1728.” “It bears the smoke +of large towns better than most trees; the largest +specimen we have ever seen grows in the garden +belonging to the Society of Gray’s Inn.” There is +no hint that the tree in question could have been +here before Catesby’s discovery, and it is not till +Loudon’s Encyclopædia in 1822 that the planting is +attributed to Bacon. Such a remarkable tree could +hardly have escaped all gardeners for more than a +century, during a time when gardening was greatly +in fashion, and every new plant greedily sought after. +We know that nearly a hundred years ago this specimen +was the finest in England, and therefore it may have +been planted not more than a hundred years or so +after Bacon’s death. Raleigh very likely walked with +Bacon on the spot where it now stands, but, alas! the +possibility that he brought Bacon a tree from Virginia, +which was only discovered near the Mississippi a century +later, is hardly credible.</p> + +<p>The entrance to the Gardens on the Holborn side +is through massive wrought-iron gates, on which the +date 1723 is legible. The letters “<span class="smcap">W. I. G.</span>” are the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_288">288</span> +initials of the Treasurer during whose tenure of office +they were erected, the “T” above standing for Treasurer. +In the Inns of Chancery a “P” for Principal, associated +with the various initials, is often to be noticed. These +fine gates are a charming approach to the sequestered +walks and ancient trees. Gray’s Inn Gardens have +another delightful speciality, in that the rooks delight +to honour them by building there. They have a warm +welcome, and good food in cold weather, and seem +likely to remain. Looking through the lofty iron +gates, the rooks’ nests are seen, and the pleasant cawing +sound adds greatly to the attraction of the place.</p> + +<figure id="i_p288c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 46em;"> + <img src="images/i_p288c.jpg" width="731" height="550" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p288c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + THE GARDEN GATES, GRAY’S INN + </figcaption> +</figure> +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_289">289</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XII"><span id="toclink_289"></span><span class="gesperrt">CHAPTER XII</span><br> + +<span class="subhead">HISTORICAL GARDENS</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>History is philosophy teaching by examples.</i></div> + </div> + <div class="attrib">—<span class="smcap">Bolingbroke.</span></div> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="idc idcA"><img src="images/i_idc_a.png" width="178" height="180" alt="A"> +<span class="firstword">Although</span> their number has sadly +diminished of late years, London +still has a few spaces remaining +which may be classed as gardens. +Often they are merely green +patches of a formal type, which +are better suited to the present +climate than attempts at flowers; +but a few regular gardens still exist, bringing dreams +of a former period. In St. Bartholomew’s Hospital, the +oldest of all such institutions, the square, with a handsome +fountain in the centre, is more what one expects +to find in Italy than in Smithfield. It is this sort of +surprise that makes the charm of London, and renders +a wander through its mazes so attractive. What a +contrast the walk of a few minutes can bring in the +heart of London! but of all these changes none is +more impressive than the hush of the Charterhouse +after the rush of Aldermanbury or the noise of Clerkenwell. +There is still lingering there the touch of the +old monastery; a breath of a bygone age seems to +pervade the courtyards and gateways, and something in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_290">290</span> +the silence speaks of another world. The first indication +of its hidden green courts are the mulberry leaves +peeping over the worn stone wall, near the gateway +which leads to the weathered archway, the entrance of +the old Carthusian monastery. This is the very spot +where, with the brutal severity of Tudor times, the +arm of the last Prior was exposed after his cruel +execution at Tyburn. The monastery, founded in 1371, +was dissolved with unusual barbarity, and passed into +secular hands. The possession of it by the Duke of +Norfolk has left its mark in many of the existing +buildings, as he converted it from a cloister to a palace, +but its palatial days did not last long. It was bought +by the benevolent Thomas Sutton, a portion of whose +large fortune, amassed from profitably working coal +mines, was bestowed in founding “a hospital for poor +brethren and scholars.” The scholars have been taken +away from the historical associations, to the purer air +of Godalming, and the parts of the buildings devoted +to their accommodation were in 1872 bought by the +Merchants Taylors’ Company for their school. The +playing field of the boys is the ample space which was +enclosed by the cloister of the monastery. Part of the +land to the north has been built over, and a tall warehouse +overlooks the burying-ground of the monks, +which is still a large green sward of hallowed ground, +with a row of mulberries. This lies so far below the +level of Clerkenwell Road that a flight of steps leads +to the postern gate in the high wall, overhung with +climbing plants. This “God’s acre” is covered with +smooth turf, and some day the two walnut trees planted +by the master in 1901 may afford grateful shade. It +is in keeping with the spirit of the place to plant trees<span class="pagenum" id="Page_291">291</span> +of such slow and stately growth. The Preachers’ Court +and the smaller Pensioners’ Court are like college quadrangles, +with that perfect turf that England alone produces. +The smooth surface is broken only by the +regular intersecting gravel paths, and one row of mulberry +trees some seventy years old. The red-brick +buildings have a venerable appearance, although they +do not carry the weight of centuries with dignity, like +the “Wash-house Court,” the hall, the library, or the +brick cloister, and the delightful old walls with their +deliciously-scented fig-trees. The whole place has a +mediæval look and feeling, and teems with ghosts and +recollections of the monks of the early peaceful days, +and their courageous successors at the Dissolution. The +pious founder, as the chorus of the old Carthusian +melody says, must not be <span class="locked">forgotten:—</span></p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“Then blessed be the memory</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Of good old Thomas Sutton,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Who gave us lodging, learning,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">As well as beef and mutton.”</div> + </div> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Of the shades which surround these peaceful green +courts none appear more real than that of Colonel +Newcome. The guardian will point out the room in +which he died, or his pew in the chapel, as if he +belonged to history as much as Wray, who bequeathed +the old books in the “Officers’ Library,” or any of the +well-known pensioners. With such true and pathetic +touches has Thackeray drawn the character of Colonel +Newcome that fiction has here become entwined round +the walls almost as closely as fact.</p> + +<p>Further eastward is an open piece of ground, which is +hardly a garden; but as it is green, and took the place of +what was known as the Artillery Garden, it may claim a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_292">292</span> +moment’s consideration. Push open a door in the +modern-looking castellated building in the City Road +near Bunhill Fields, and a large, quiet, open space is +discovered. Old guns look inoffensively down on a +wide square of green turf. This is the home of the +Honourable Artillery Company, the descendants of the +“Trained Bands” of citizens, first enrolled in 1585 in +the fear of a Spanish invasion. They have been here +since 1622, when they moved from near Bishopsgate +Without. “Artillery Garden,” or Teazel Close or +Garden, was the name of the older place, from the teazel +grown there for the cloth workers.</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“Teazel of ground we enlarge St. Mary’s Spittle,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Trees cut down, and gardens added to it,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Thanks to the lords that gave us leave to do it,”</div> + </div> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="in0">says an old poem. The existing Artillery Ground was +a great place for cricket matches, where county met +county in the eighteenth century. It was here that a +vast crowd witnessed the first balloon ever launched into +the air in England, sent up by Count Zambeccari in +1783. The next year, from the same place, Lunardi was +more ambitious, and actually went up in his balloon. +It proved too small for the friend who was ready to +risk his life in his company, so he took a dog, a cat, and +a pigeon with him instead.</p> + +<p>Passing on into the City, the remains of the once +extensive Drapers’ Garden is met with.<a id="FNanchor_10" href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">10</a> Only a small +piece, seen from the street through iron railings, and +approached through the hall, has been retained; a few +trees and bright flowers survive of what was once a +fashionable and much sought after resort.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_293">293</span></p> + +<figure id="i_p293" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 33em;"> + <img src="images/i_p293.jpg" width="525" height="377" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p293_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + <span class="smcap">Trinity Almshouses, Mile End Road</span> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Most of the other patches of green in the City are +disused burial-grounds, and are considered in a chapter +by themselves. Beyond the City, on the east, in the Mile +End Road, is the quiet old Trinity Hospital. It stands +on the north of that wide road, which might be made +one of the most beautiful entrances to the City. The +simple good taste of these delightful old almshouses is +a great contrast to some of the surroundings. They +were probably designed by John Evelyn, with the assistance +of Wren. His father-in-law, Sir Richard Browne, +founded and built very similar almshouses at Deptford, +long since swept away. Of these Evelyn writes, “It +was a good and charitable work and gift, but would have +been better bestowed on the poor of that parish than on +seamen’s widows, the Trinity Company being very rich,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_294">294</span> +and the rest of the poor of the parish exceedingly indigent.” +In spite of these sentiments, he is believed to +have had a hand in the Mile End Almshouses, which +were founded by Captain Henry Mudd of Ratcliffe, +Captain Sandes or Sanders, and Captain Maples. The +two last are remembered by statues still standing in the +little formal gardens. Maples, who appears in the dress +of a naval officer of the period, left a fortune for the use +of the guild in diamonds, collected in India, where he +was an early pioneer, and where he died in 1680. A +similar endowment in Hull is described in a poem in +<span class="locked">1662:—</span></p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“It is a comely built, well-ordered place,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">But that which most of all the house doth grace</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Are rooms for widowes, who are old and poore,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">And have been wives to mariners before.”</div> + </div> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="in0">Certainly Trinity Hospital, Mile End, is comely and +well ordered. The pensioners take a pride in keeping +every nook and corner scrupulously clean. Everything +is, in fact, in “ship-shape” order. The grass is neatly +mown, the trees on either side well trimmed and clipped. +Outside each little house a few plants are carefully +tended, the pots arranged with precision, and every +flower looked after with pride. It is indeed a peaceful +place for these old people to pass their declining years +in, and the sight makes the regret for St. Katharine’s and +the other vanished charitable buildings all the more keen.</p> + +<p>The site of another benevolent institution near is +fulfilling a useful and delightful task, although the +old houses attached to it have disappeared. It was +a row of almshouses founded by a member of the +Brewers’ Company, named Baker, about 150 years ago,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_295">295</span> +for widows. The garden was much too large for these +decrepid old women to cultivate, so the place was taken +in hand some twenty-five years ago by the Rev. Sidney +Vatcher, who built the beautiful church of St. Philip, +Stepney, hard by, and he became the tenant of the +Brewers’ Company. This charming garden was at first +more or less opened by him to the parish, but lately it +has been put to the most suitable use of giving a quiet +place for rest and recreation to the nurses of the London +Hospital. The almshouses were pulled down about +four years ago, to make way for the laundries of the +Hospital. Here, indeed, is one of those sudden and +surprising contrasts to be found in London. A high +brick wall encloses this oasis, and the nurses and some +privileged people have keys to the door, which opens, +from a side street close to the noise of the Mile End +Road, suddenly into a peaceful, picturesque garden. The +idea in the formation was a willow-pattern plate, and the +little bridge over a miniature stream is reproduced. +Plane trees in a formal array are kept trimmed to give +a dense shade, and the hammocks hung from them in +summer provide the most ideal resting-places for the +worn-out nurses. At one time animals were kept here +in cages, as a kind of small “Zoo” for Whitechapel; +but since the last alterations the animals have been relinquished, +and the bear-pit makes a delightful rock +garden, and the various other cages form summer-houses. +One thoughtful addition of the vicar was placing a small +stove in one of these shelters, with an array of kettles, +teapots, cups and saucers, so that any of the nurses +resting can have their <i lang="it">al fresco</i> cup of tea—and what +could be more grateful and comforting? A French +writer who recently gave her impressions of L’Ile Inconnue<span class="pagenum" id="Page_296">296</span> +was charmed with the peace and repose of this +little East End Paradise. After seeing the Hospital and +all its wonderful appliances, “You will now see our +Eden,” said the guide. “Ici! l’Eden! m’écriai-je, après +le péché alors!” Then, when she had for a moment looked +within those mysterious high walls, “N’avais-je pas raison +d’appeler ce jardin l’Eden?” said the friend. “Oui, +repondis-je, c’est l’Eden après la Rédemption.” Certainly +any one who sees this little garden, and realises +the devoted lives of those who made it and those who +enjoy it, must agree with this writer.</p> + +<p>It is not often that, when the old almshouses vanish, +the neighbourhood benefits to such an extent. What +will be the fate of the Ironmongers’ Almshouses in +Kingsland Road, between Shoreditch and Dalston? A +large board in the garden that fronts the street announces +the site is for sale!</p> + +<p>The Foundling Hospital has large green courts, on +which the merry but sombrely-clad little children are +seen running about, through the fine iron gates which +face Guildford Street. This was founded in 1739 by +Captain Thomas Coram, who gave so much of his wealth +to objects of charity and philanthropy that a subscription +had to be raised to support him in his old age. Theodore +Jacobson (died 1772) was the architect of the +building. A colonnade runs round the whole length of +the forecourt up to the gates, part of which is used as +laundries, or other things necessary to the institution. +A writer in 1773 describes the “large area between the +gates and the hospital” as “adorned with grass plats, +gravel walks, and lamps erected upon handsome posts: +beside which there are two convenient gardens,” and +exactly the same description holds good to-day. Brunswick<span class="pagenum" id="Page_297">297</span> +Square lies to the west, and Mecklenburgh Square +to the east, so the Hospital grounds are still airy. There +is a small garden at the back of the building in front of +the Infirmary; on the east is the Treasurer’s Garden, +a fair-sized enclosure, and on the other side, with the +poplars growing in Brunswick Square overhanging it, lies +the other and larger of the two “convenient gardens.” +There is nothing old-fashioned or attractive in these +gardens left; merely a green lawn, a weeping ash, and a +few commonplace “bedding-out” plants; not altogether +in keeping with the age or dignity of the building and +spacious forecourt.</p> + +<p>Less well known is the delightful Garden of the Grey-coat +School in Westminster. Most of the old foundations +in Westminster have vanished, such as Emanuel +Hospital and the “Blue-coat School,” which disappeared +a few years ago, but so far this charming old house has +been respected. Quaint figures of the children in the +dress of the time—it was founded by the citizens of +Westminster in 1698—stand on either side of the +entrance. The children from the parishes of St. +Margaret and St. John the Evangelist, who have +attended the elementary schools for three years, are +eligible for admission, up to the age of ten. The +school was reconstituted as a day school for 300 girls +in 1873, and, in spite of all educational vicissitudes, has +been allowed to survive, and the sweet and wholesome +influence of those old-fashioned surroundings would be +a great loss, should it ever be swept away. The Garden +is delightful. It is practical as well as ornamental, as it +furnishes the staff of teachers with a good supply of +vegetables. They have each a small flower-bed too, +tended with great care, and the children are allowed a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_298">298</span> +place of their own, where they work, dig, and plant. +Down the centre runs a wide gravel walk, with a deep +herbaceous border along either side, sweet-scented pinks +and low-growing plants near the front, then a long row +of spiderwort, and behind that a regiment of magnificent +hollyhocks. The spiderwort or Tradescantia is a flower +eminently suited to London gardens, not only because it +seems to withstand any amount of smoke and bad air, +but because of its association with the famous garden in +Lambeth, where it was first grown. Parkinson, in 1629, +gives the history of his friend’s introduction of the plant. +“The Spiderwort,” he writes, “is of late knowledge, and +for it the Christian World is indebted unto that painfull +industrious searcher, and lover of all nature’s varieties, +John Tradescant (sometimes belonging to the Right +Honourable Lord Robert Earle of Salisbury, Lord +Treasurer of England in his time, and unto the Right +Honourable the Lord Wotton at Canterbury in Kent, +and lastly unto the late Duke of Buckingham), who first +received it of a friend, that brought it out of Virginia, +thinking it to bee the Silke Grasse that groweth there, +and hath imparted hereof, as of many other things, +both to me and others.” “Unto this plant I confess I +first imposed the name ... which untill some can finde +a more proper, I desire may still continue ... John +Tradescant’s Spider Wort of Virginia.” Courageous as +herbalists generally were in tasting plants, Parkinson +confesses there had “not beene any tryall made of the +properties” or “vertues.” Luckily no one has disputed +Parkinson’s choice of a name, and his friend’s +memory is still preserved. The plant is not confined +to Virginia, but grows much further into the Wild West, +and is common in Kansas, Nebraska, and distant States.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_299">299</span> +Yet it will still adapt itself to the grimy limits of a +London garden, and flower year after year. The Grey-coat +School Garden is quite refreshing; the plants look +so healthy and prosperous that it is really encouraging. +The interior of the house, with oak beams and +panels, is all in keeping, and the long class-room, with +windows looking out on the bright Garden, is most ideal. +As, at the close of their afternoon studies, the girls, singing +sweetly in parts, join in some familiar hymn, and the +melodious sounds are wafted across the sunlit Garden, it +is hard to believe in the existence of the crowded, unsavoury +slums of Westminster, only a stone’s throw from +this “haunt of ancient peace.”</p> + +<figure id="i_p298c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 31em;"> + <img src="images/i_p298c.jpg" width="547" height="774" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p298c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + GREY COAT SCHOOL, WESTMINSTER + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Among its many charms and associations Westminster +Abbey can lay claim to possessing one of the oldest +gardens in England. The ground still occupied by the +space known as the “College Garden” was part of the +infirmary garden of the ancient monastery. It cannot +trace back its history with the Abbey to the Saxon +Sebert, but when Edward the Confessor’s pile began to +rise, and all the usual adjuncts of a monastery gathered +round it, the infirmary with the necessary herb-garden of +simples for treating the sick monks would be one of the +first buildings to be completed. One of the most peaceful +and retired spots within the Abbey precincts is the +Little Cloister, which was the infirmary in early days. +When the Great Cloister was finished in 1365, the +Little Cloister was taken in hand. Payments for work +on “the New Cloister of the Infirmary” appear in the +accounts from 1377, and it was completed in 1390, and +that year the centre was laid down in turf. The garden +belonging to the infirmary covered all the space now +occupied by the “College Garden,” and joined the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_300">300</span> +“Grete Garden,” which lay to the west. It was probably, +like all the gardens of that date, laid out in long, +narrow, straight beds, in which were grown all the healing +herbs used for the sick of the monastery. Probably +there were fruit-trees, too, as in 1362 John de Mordon, +the infirmarer, got 9s. for his apples, and the following +year 10s. for pears and apples. No doubt the favourite +Wardon pear was among them, as in another record, +between 1380–90, it is specially mentioned. The chapel +of St. Katharine, which stood on the north side of the +Garden, was destroyed in Elizabeth’s reign. This, the +infirmary chapel of Norman building, was as replete +with history as every other nook and corner of the Abbey +buildings. Here St. Hugh of Lincoln and most of the +early bishops were consecrated, and here took place the +unseemly dispute for precedence, between the Primates of +Canterbury and York in 1186, which led to the settling +of their respective ranks by the Pope. While so many +changes have swept over the Abbey, and whole buildings +have vanished, the herb-garden of early days has kept its +place, and is still a garden, though bereft of its neat little +beds.</p> + +<figure id="i_p301" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 28em;"> + <img src="images/i_p301.jpg" width="545" height="874" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p301_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + <span class="smcap">Abbey Garden, Westminster</span> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>The Little Cloister has been greatly altered since then, +having been refashioned in the early part of the eighteenth +century under the influence of Wren. Although so changed +since the time when strange decoctions of medicinal herbs +were administered within its walls, it has retained much +of its fascination, and the approach to it by the dim +vaulted entrance, dating from the Confessor’s time, out +of the narrow passage known as the “Dark Entry,” adds +to its charm. The sun streams down on this small +court, with its tree and ferns and old moss-grown fountain, +lighting it with a kind of “dusky splendour.”<span class="pagenum" id="Page_302">302</span> +Any one standing in this suggestive spot will feel with +Washington Irving, that “The Cloisters still retain +something of the quiet and seclusion of former days. +The gray walls are discoloured by damps, and crumbling +with age; a coat of hoary moss has gathered over the +inscriptions of the mural monuments, and obscured +the death’s heads, and other mural emblems. The +sharp touches of the chisel are gone from the rich +tracery of the arches; the roses which adorned the +keystones have lost their leafy beauty; everything bears +marks of the gradual dilapidations of time, which yet +has something touching and pleasing in its very decay.”</p> + +<p>These lines refer to the Great Cloister, but the quiet +and repose are still more noticeable in the Little Cloister, +which rarely echoes to the sound of hurrying feet. The +noise and laughter of Westminster scholars is only dimly +heard in this secluded corner. The boys are not as +boisterous as when Horace Walpole feared to face them +alone, even to visit his mother’s tomb. “I literally had +not courage to venture alone among the Westminster +boys; they are as formidable to me as the ship carpenters +at Portsmouth,” he wrote in 1754. Even in those days +the list of eminent scholars was already a long one—Hakluyt, +Ben Jonson, George Herbert, Dryden, Wren, +being on the roll of those who had passed away, besides +others then living, such as Gibbon and Warren Hastings, +who carried on the tradition of this classic ground.</p> + +<figure id="i_p302c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 31em;"> + <img src="images/i_p302c.jpg" width="556" height="792" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p302c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + THE LITTLE CLOISTER, WESTMINSTER ABBEY + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>In monastic times there were many gardens within the +precincts of the Abbey, besides the infirmary garden; but +it is difficult to locate all of them with certainty, although +the sites of some are known. The abbot’s garden lay +in the north-west angle of the wall, and must have +covered part of the present Broad Sanctuary, including<span class="pagenum" id="Page_303">303</span> +the spot where the Crimean monument now stands. +Beyond the abbot’s house, just west of the cloister, was +the abbot’s little garden. The northern part of Dean’s +Yard was from very early times known as “The Elms,” +from the grove of fine trees, some of which remain. It +is said that when Elizabeth ascended the throne and +summoned Abbot Feckenham, who had been reinstated +by Mary, he was planting some, perhaps these identical, +elm trees. Among them formerly stood a huge oak, +which was blown down in 1791. The horse pool was +on the west of the Elms, and beyond both to the south +lay the numerous adjuncts of the monastery, the brewhouse, +bakehouse, and granaries. Skirting this enclosure +was the “Long Ditch,” which flowed by the line of the +present Delahay Street and Prince’s Streets, and passed +along outside of the wall of the Infirmary Garden, in what +is now Great College Street, and fell into the Thames. +This stream turned the mill from which “Millbank” +took its name. In it, to the south of the granary, was +a small island osier bed. The sale of the osiers on it +used to bring in 10s. annually in the fourteenth century. +Beyond the stream were more gardens. The “Hostry +Garden” was a large one on the site of the church +of St. John, and next to it the “Bowling Alley,” where +Bowling Street ran in later times, and to the west of that +was a kitchen-garden. Somewhere also on the west of +the “Long Ditch,” before it turned towards the Thames +near the osier island, must have been the “Precentor’s +Mede,” or, as it was sometimes called, the “Chaunter’s-hull,” +and also the “Almoner’s Mede” or “Almery +Garden.” On the other side of the “Hostry Garden,” +southwards on the site of “Vine Street” and “Market +Street,” was situated the vineyard, without which no<span class="pagenum" id="Page_304">304</span> +thirteenth-century monastery was complete, and “Market +Mede.” Even this does not exhaust the list of separate +gardens, but the others probably lay further away. The +cellarer had charge of a large garden, which may have been +the “Convent Garden,” which is so familiar as “Covent +Garden” that the connection between the site of the +market and the Abbey has been lost sight of. One +of the large gardens which was generally let was +“Maudit’s Garden.” In the records it is spoken of as +“Maudit’s” or “Caleys.” The name Maudit was given +to it because Thomas Maudit, Earl of Warwick, in the +thirteenth century effected an exchange of lands with +the Abbey, of which the garden formed a part. The +other name, “Caleys,” was “Calais,” named from the +wool staplers who came from that town and resided +near there, just as “Petty France” (where Milton lived) +was called so from the French merchants. An Act of +interchange of land between Henry VIII. and the Abbey, +in the twenty-third year of his reign, mentions “a +certain great messuage or tenement commonly called +Pety Caleys, and all messuages, houses, barns, stables, +dove-houses, orchards, gardens, pools, fisheries, waters, +ditches, lands, meadows, and pastures.” Part of this was +“Maudit’s” garden, which was sometimes in the hands +of the convent, but more frequently let out. Among +the muniments in 1350, “a toft called Maudit’s garden, +and a croft called Maudit’s croft,” are referred to. There +seems to have been an enclosure within this “toft” which +was let out separately, and in the twentieth year of +Edward IV., Matilda, the widow of Richard Willy, who +had held it, gave up this enclosure or “conyn garth.” +This was probably a “coney garth” or rabbit enclosure, +like the one at Lincoln’s Inn, which was kept up for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_305">305</span> +a long time. Such rabbit gardens were by no means +uncommon. All gardening operations must at times +have been rendered difficult by reason of the wet soil +and frequent flooding of the river, but with the patient +persistence characteristic of gardeners in those days, the +gardens in monastic times were probably well kept, and +yielded profitable crops. It is delightful to know that, +in spite of all the changes, one portion of the old gardens +actually remains to this day.</p> + +<p>Lambeth, on the opposite bank, fared no better than +Westminster for high tides, and wet seasons did occasional +damage there. In Archbishop Laud’s Diary, he notes +the inroad of a high tide, which certainly would be destructive:—“November +15, 1635, Sunday. At afternoon +the greatest tide that hath been seen. It came +within my gates, walks, cloysters, and stables at +Lambeth.” Nothing of great antiquity now remains +in these Lambeth Gardens, although they are indeed +historic ground. The long terrace and wide herbaceous +border, with a profusion of madonna lilies, backed by +a wooden paling, and fruit-trees peeping over, is now a +charming walk. The trees on the right of the illustration +are planes, ailanthus, and catalpas, all smoke-resisting +and suitable, but not such as would have +ornamented the Garden in older days, when Archbishop +Cranmer adorned his garden with “a summer-house of +exquisite workmanship.” It was designed by his chaplain, +Dr. John Ponet or Poynet, who is said to have +had “great skill and taste in works of that kind.” The +summer-house was repaired by Archbishop Parker, but +afterwards fell into decay and was removed, and in 1828 +not even a tradition of where it had stood remained. +The site of “Clarendon’s Walk,” another historical<span class="pagenum" id="Page_306">306</span> +corner of the Lambeth Garden, is also uncertain. It +appears to have received the name from a conversation +which took place in the Garden between Laud and +Hyde, in which the latter seems to have told the +Archbishop pretty plainly that “people were universally +discontented ... and many people spoke extreme ill +of his grace,” on account of his discourteous manners, +which culminated on one occasion by his telling a guest +“he had no time for compliments,” which greatly incensed +him. The only survivals of former years are +the delightfully fragrant fig-trees, which flourish between +the buttresses on the sunny side of the library—the +great hall rebuilt by Archbishop Juxon after the +destruction in Cromwell’s time. These figs are now +fair-sized trees, but they are only cuttings of the older +ones destroyed in 1829, when Archbishop Howley +commenced his rebuilding. The two parent trees, in +1792, measured 28 inches and 21 inches in circumference, +and were 50 feet high and 40 feet in breadth, +and, according to contemporary evidence, bore delicious +fruit of the white Marseilles variety. Tradition ascribed +their planting to Cardinal Pole during his brief sojourn +as Archbishop.</p> + +<figure id="i_p306c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 42em;"> + <img src="images/i_p306c.jpg" width="670" height="521" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p306c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + HERBACEOUS BORDER, LAMBETH PALACE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Latimer seems much to have appreciated the Lambeth +Garden, when business called him to the Palace. Sir +Thomas More describes, in 1534, how he watched him +walking in the Garden from the windows. Latimer +himself, in writing to Edward VI., says, “I trouble my +Lord of Canterbury, and being at his house now and +then, I walk in the Garden looking at my book, as I +can do but little good at it. But something I must +needs do to satisfy the place. I am no sooner in the +Garden and have read awhile, but by-and-by cometh<span class="pagenum" id="Page_307">307</span> +there some one or other knocking at the gate. Anon +cometh my man and saith, ‘Sir, there is one at the +gate would speak with you.’” How many of us +that have been called in from a pleasant garden to +perform some unpleasant task will sympathise with the +Bishop!</p> + +<p>One famous inhabitant of the Garden lived through +many and great changes. This was a tortoise, which is +said to have been put into the Garden by Archbishop +Laud, and lived until 1757, when he perished by the +negligence of a gardener. This legend is apparently quite +true, so it had been there for over 110 years.</p> + +<p>A short account of the principal gardens near London, +written by Gibson in 1691, describes that of Lambeth +Palace. It “has,” he says, “little in it but walks, the +late Archbishop [Sancroft] not delighting in” gardens, +“but they are now making them better; and they have +already made a green-house, one of the finest and costliest +about the town. It is of three rooms, the middle having +a stove under it; ... but it is placed so near Lambeth +Church, that the sun shines most on it in winter after +eleven o’clock, a fault owned by the gardener, but not +thought of by the contrivers. Most of the greens are +oranges and lemons, which have very large ripe fruit on +them.” The Archbishop who thus took the garden in +hand was Tillotson, and it is not surprising to find him +adopting that keenness for gardening and the cultivation +of “greens” brought into fashion by William III.</p> + +<p>Nearly ten acres of the extensive grounds of Lambeth +Palace have now been put under the management of the +London County Council, and made open to the public +as “Archbishop’s Park.” For many years this Park +had been used for cricket and so on, but the transference<span class="pagenum" id="Page_308">308</span> +entailed some alterations, and extended its use +to a wider circle.</p> + +<p>The Garden of Fulham, the other ecclesiastical palace +of London, is even more interesting than Lambeth, on +account of the fine trees still remaining of which the +history is known. Among the Bishops of London +several have shown great interest in the gardens, +and two especially, Grindal and Compton, were +eminent gardeners. The tamarisk was introduced by +Bishop Grindal, and in the golden age of gardening +he was in the foremost rank of the patrons of +the art, with Bacon and Burghley. He used to send +Queen Elizabeth presents of choice fruits from his +garden, and on one occasion got into trouble by sending +fruit, when one of his servants was supposed, +unjustly, to have the plague. He wrote (5th August +1566) to Burghley, to say he was sorry he had “no +fruit to offer him but some grapes.” These grapes +were of course produced out of doors, as growing +vines in green-houses was a fashion unknown until +some 150 years later. Even before the additions of +Grindal, the gardens were extensive, and Bonner is said +to have been much in his garden, not from the love of +its repose, but, according to contemporary but prejudiced +chroniclers, because in the further arbours of +the garden he could with the rod or by other equally +stringent measures, “persuade” undisturbed those of +the reformed religion to recant and adopt his views. +His successor, Grindal, used the Garden for more laudable +and peaceful practices, and his work of planting +was much appreciated in that garden-loving age. Bishop +Aylmer, who, after Sandys, succeeded Grindal in 1577, +was accused of destroying much of Grindal’s work and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_309">309</span> +cutting down his trees, then some thirty-five years old. +Strype, however, protests that he only cut down “two +or three of the decayed ones.” That there should be +a controversy on the subject only shows how much +was thought of Grindal’s planting. The same thing +happened after the death of Compton, the next great +planter, as Robinson, who followed him, let the gardener +sell and cut down as much as he liked. In our +own day, even, some of Compton’s elms have been +removed, to make the alterations in the Bishop’s Park +when it was opened to the public. The Bishop’s Park +is the long, narrow strip of land between the moat and +the river. Flowering shrubs on the bank of the moat, +and rows of cut plane trees by the river, have been +planted. There are two long asphalt paths, and some +bedding out and rock gardening between the grass +lawns. It is now kept in order by the Borough of +Fulham, which reminds the public of the fact by the +notices stuck up: “Ratepayers, protect your property.”</p> + +<p>The Elm Avenue was part of Compton’s design, and +many very fine trees known to be his remain to this +day. During the long duration of his episcopate—1675 +to 1714—he had time to see his plants grow and flourish. +His gardening achievements were much appreciated in his +own day. John Evelyn, a great authority on horticultural +matters, was often at Fulham. He notes in his +Diary on Oct. 11, 1681: “To Fulham to visit the +Bishop of London, in whose garden I first saw the <i class="flora" lang="la">Sedum +arborescens</i> in flower, which was exceedingly beautiful.” +Richard Bradley, a well-known gardener, in his book +published in 1717, quotes many of the plants at Fulham +as examples in his pages. With regard to the +passion flower, his notice is interesting, as it gives the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_310">310</span> +name of Bishop Compton’s gardener. “That [the +passion flower] may bear fruit,” he writes, “we must +Plant it in very moist and cool places, where it may be +continually fed with Water; this I had from the Curious +Mr. Adam Holt, Gardener to the late Bishop of +London, who shew’d me a letter from the West Indies, +from whence I learnt it was an Inhabitant of Swampy +Places.” Bradley had seen the pistachio fruiting against +a wall at Fulham, and he thought he had also noticed an +olive flourishing there. From time to time there have been +special notices of the trees round the Bishop’s palace. Sir +William Watson wrote a paper on them for the Royal +Society, in which he gives a list of thirty-seven special +trees, many of them the finest of their kind in England. +“For exemplification of this I would,” he says, “recommend +to the curious observer the black Virginian walnut +tree, the cluster pine, the honey locust, the pseudo-acacia, +the ash maple, &c., now remaining at Fulham.” +Many of the later bishops have paid great attention to +the grounds. Bishop Porteous (1787–1809) who planted +cedars; Howley (1813–1828), and especially Blomfield +(1828–1856), all took delight in the Garden. Bishop +Blomfield planted a deciduous cypress and the ailanthus, +which now measures 10 feet 4 inches at 4 feet from the +ground, curiously exactly the same girth as the one at +Broom House close by. In 1865, Bishop Tait had the +old trees measured, and there are later measurements of +some of the finest. The cork tree was 13 feet 9 inches, +and although sadly shattered, part of this magnificent old +tree, with its thick cork bark, still holds its own. The +great black walnut or hickory has not been so fortunate, +and died about ten years ago, and only a venerable +stump is left; but a good specimen still stands in the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_311">311</span> +meadow. The great tree in 1865 measured 15 feet +5 inches; in 1894, 17 feet 3 inches. The tulip tree died +about the same time as the hickory. The honey locust +(<i class="flora" lang="la">Gleditschia triacanthos</i>), one of Bishop Compton’s trees, +only died last year, the large white elm in 1904, and, +sad to say, the flowering ash (<i class="flora" lang="la">Fraxinus ornus</i>) was blown +down in March 1907. The Wych elm and a beautiful +walnut still flourish, and also the variety of Turkey oak +(<i class="flora" lang="la">Quercus cerris lucumbeana</i> or <i class="flora" lang="la">fulhamensis</i>), so in spite of +many disasters Fulham Palace still can show some fine trees.</p> + +<p>Chelsea still abounds in gardens. There are the +modern plots along the Embankment, laid out with +the wriggling path that municipal authorities seem to +deem necessary nowadays. The private gardens in front +of some of the houses are an older institution, and some +can boast of delightful patches of old gardens in their rear +also. Behind Lindsay House the Moravian burial-ground +is hidden away, and part of its wall may be the actual wall +of Sir Thomas More’s garden. There are the remains of +elms and several good mulberry trees. The large mulberry +on the Embankment near looks as if it once might have +been in the garden too. Chelsea further possesses one of +the first botanical gardens in England, the Duke of York’s +School with large grass area and fine elm trees, and the +spacious grounds that surround the Hospital. Much +of the old stately simplicity still clings to these latter, +although last century saw many variations in their plan.</p> + +<p>The site was occupied by King James’s College, +founded by Matthew Sutcliffe, Dean of Exeter, in 1610, +which, in spite of the King’s patronage and the interest +of Prince Henry, was a failure. It added to, rather +than allayed, religious discussion, and was familiarly +known as “Controversy College.” The ground was,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_312">312</span> +in 1669, given to the Royal Society, but the buildings +were too dilapidated for them to use. To Sir Stephen +Fox is probably due the idea of founding a hospital +for disabled soldiers, although tradition also attributes +some of the credit to Nell Gwynn, who is said to +have appealed to Charles II. on their behalf. The King +laid the foundation-stone, on the 12th of March 1682, +of the building designed by Wren. John Evelyn, as +one of the Council of the Royal Society, had been +consulted when the idea was first mooted, and in +January 1682 he notes in his Diary a talk on the +subject with Sir Stephen Fox, who asked for Evelyn’s +assistance with regard to the staff and management. +So in Sir Stephen’s study, as Evelyn writes, “We +arranged the governor, chaplain, steward, housekeeper, +chirurgeon, cook, butler, gardener, porter, and other +officers, with their several salaries and entertainments.” +This list of officials shows the importance of the Garden +from the first—and no wonder, as the grounds occupied +some twenty-six acres. A survey made in 1702 shows +how this space was divided. The largest part, lying +to the north of the Hospital, is what is now known +as “Burton’s Court,” and is used as a recreation ground +for the soldiers in the barracks near, and a cricket +ground for the brigade of Guards. The avenue down +the central walk, “planted with limes and chestnuts,” +was included in the early design, and “Royal Avenue” +is a continuation of it, Queen Anne having, it is said, +intended to carry it on to Kensington. This part, +called “the great court north of the buildings,” occupied +over thirteen acres. The rest was divided into grass +plots between the quadrangle courts and canals, nearly +three acres; the “garden on the east, now the governor’s,”<span class="pagenum" id="Page_313">313</span> +about two acres; a kitchen-garden towards the +river of more than three acres, two L-shaped canals +with wide walks between, an “apothecary’s garden” +for medicinal herbs, bleaching yards, and the churchyard. +The front garden, with its canals in Dutch +style, ended in a terrace along the river. This garden +was subject to much abuse by the landscape school +of designers. “It was laid out,” wrote one in 1805, +“when the art of landscape gardening was at its +lowest pitch; the principal absurdity in the garden +is cutting two insignificant canals as ornaments, whilst +one side of the garden is bounded by the noble stream +of the Thames.” The writer adds that the gardens +were open on Sundays in summer, and were much +frequented as a public promenade. These severely-criticised +canals were filled up in the middle of last +century, and the space is now grass with avenues on +either side, and a central obelisk, a monument to our +soldiers who fell in the battle of Chillianwallah.</p> + +<figure id="i_p312c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 33em;"> + <img src="images/i_p312c.jpg" width="550" height="744" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p312c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + STATUE OF CHARLES II., CHELSEA HOSPITAL + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>The statue of Charles II. as a Roman emperor, by +Gibbons, in the centre of the court, was given by Tobias +Rustat. The view over the simple, spacious garden +from this central court, to the long balustrade with +steps down to the lower terrace, is very satisfying, and +in keeping with the stately architecture. The Governor’s +house has its own special garden, a fine, wide terrace +and large, straight beds, and a delightful red-brick wall +covered with trailing plants and fine iron gateway. The +old pensioners, in their long coats and weather-beaten +faces, enjoying their “peace pipe” and their well-earned +repose, add very greatly to the picturesque +effect of the Garden, and all its surroundings. The +churchyard, clearly seen through the railings along<span class="pagenum" id="Page_314">314</span> +Queen’s Road from Chelsea Barracks, has an air of +dignified repose. It has been closed since 1854. The +first soldier buried there in 1692, Simon Box, had +served four kings: Charles I., Charles II., James II., +and William III. The tombs are much worn with age, +and it is no longer possible to find some of those +known to have been laid to rest there. Among them +are two women who had served as privates; one of +them, who died in 1739, Christian Davies or “Mother +Ross,” had served in Marlborough’s campaigns. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_315">315</span> +extraordinary number of centenarians this small burying-ground +contains is astounding. William Hisland surely +beats the record, as he was married when he was over +a hundred! He was born in August 1620, and died +in February 1732. Another veteran of 112 died five +years later, while another, Robert Comming, who was +buried in 1767, was 115, and before the end of the +eighteenth century three others, aged respectively 102, +111, and 107, were interred. The eldest of these +three, who died in 1772, had fought in the Battle of +the Boyne! It certainly speaks well for the care and +attention bestowed on them in the Hospital.</p> + +<figure id="i_p314" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 33em;"> + <img src="images/i_p314.jpg" width="523" height="537" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p314_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + <span class="smcap">Garden Gate, Chelsea Hospital</span> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>The garden to the east of the buildings was part +of the original ground, but has had a career and history +of its own. It was the famous Ranelagh Gardens, which +enchanted the beaux and fair ladies of the eighteenth +century. From 1742 to 1803 its glories lasted. Ranelagh +House was built by the Earl of that name, who +was Paymaster to the Forces in the reign of James II., +a clever, unscrupulous person, who amassed considerable +wealth in the course of his office-work. He obtained +a grant of the land from Chelsea Hospital, built a house +and laid out a garden, where the “plots, borders, and +walks” were “curiously kept, and elegantly designed.” +After passing through the hands of his daughter, Lady +Catherine Jones, the property was sold to Swift and +Timbrell, who leased it to Lacey, the patentee of Drury +Lane Theatre. The idea was to turn it into a winter +Vauxhall. Eventually it was open from Easter till +the end of the summer, and effectually outshone Vauxhall. +Walpole, in a letter two days after it was first +opened, did not think much of it. “I was there, last +night, but did not find the joy of it. Vauxhall is a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_316">316</span> +little better, for the garden is pleasanter, and one goes +to it by water.” Two years later he wrote in a very +different strain. “Every night constantly I go to +Ranelagh, which has totally beat Vauxhall. Nobody +goes anywhere else—everybody goes there. My Lord +Chesterfield is so fond of it, that he says he has +ordered all his letters to be directed thither.” Fanny +Burney, in “Evelina,” to bring out the character of +the “surly, vulgar, and disagreeable man,” makes him +abuse the place which fascinated polite society. “There’s +your famous Ranelagh, that you make such a fuss +about; why, what a dull place is that!” The chief +amusement was walking about and looking at each +other, as the poem by Bloomfield puts <span class="locked">it—</span></p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“We had seen every soul that was in it,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Then we went round and saw them again.”</div> + </div> +</div> +</div> + +<p>The great attraction was the Rotunda, supposed to +be like the Pantheon at Rome. The outside diameter +was 185 feet. An arcade ran all round, and above it a +gallery, with steps up to it through four Doric porticos. +Over the gallery were sixty windows, and the whole was +surmounted by a slate roof. In the middle, supporting +the roof, was a huge fireplace, on the space at first +occupied by the orchestra. “Round the Rotunda,” +inside, were “47 boxes ... with a table and cloth +spread in each; in these the company” were “regaled, +without any further expense, with tea and coffee.” The +whole was adorned with looking-glasses and paintings, +imitation marble, stucco, and gilding. Dr. Arne wrote +music for the special performances; breakfasts were at +one time the rage, and at another masquerades were the +order of the day; while fireworks and illuminations<span class="pagenum" id="Page_317">317</span> +amused the company at intervals, all through the years +in which Ranelagh was prosperous.</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“There thousands of gay lamps aspir’d</div> + <div class="verse indent0">To the tops of the trees and beyond;</div> + <div class="verse indent0">And, what was most hugely admired,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">They looked upside-down in a pond.</div> + <div class="verse indent0">The blaze scarce an eagle could bear</div> + <div class="verse indent0">And an owl had most surely been slain;</div> + <div class="verse indent0">We returned to the circle, and then—</div> + <div class="verse indent0">And then we went round it again.”</div> + </div> +</div> +</div> + +<p>One of the last entertainments at Ranelagh was the +Installation Ball of the Knights of the Bath in 1803; +and a few years afterwards all trace of Ranelagh House, +the Rotunda, and even the Garden was gone. The +ground reverted to Chelsea Hospital, and not a vestige +of the former glories is left. The pleasant shady walks +and undulating lawns on the site, bear no resemblance +to the lines of the former gardens, and only some of the +older trees can have been there when Lord Chesterfield +and Walpole were paying it daily visits.</p> + +<p>The most important of Chelsea gardens, and one of +the most interesting in England, is the Physic Garden, +which lies between the Embankment and Queen’s Road, +now called Royal Hospital Road. The Garden, both +horticulturally, botanically, and historically, has claims +on every Londoner. England was much behind the +rest of Europe in starting botanic gardens. That of +Padua, begun in 1545, was the first on the Continent, +and it was nearly a hundred years later before any +were attempted in this country. Oxford led the way +in 1632, and the Chelsea one followed in 1673. Its +formation was due to the Apothecaries’ Company, and +its first object the study of medicinal herbs. In those<span class="pagenum" id="Page_318">318</span> +days botany and medicine were closely entwined. Every +botanical and horticultural work was occupied with the +virtues and properties of plants, far more than their +structural peculiarities, or their beauties of form or +growth. Gerard, Johnson, and less well-known botanists, +were herbalists and apothecaries, so it was only natural +that the Worshipful Company of Apothecaries should +be the founders of a garden. It was not the first of its +kind in London, but it ranks now as the second oldest +in England, as its predecessors in London, such as +Gerard’s Garden in Holborn, and the Tradescants in +Lambeth, have long since passed away. It probably, +moreover, embodies the earlier one at Westminster, +which was under the care of Hugh Morgan, said by his +contemporaries to be a very skilful botanist. The Westminster +Garden seems to have been still flourishing when +the Apothecaries started theirs in Chelsea, but three years +later it was bought by them, one of the conditions of sale +being that the plants might be moved to Chelsea. The +land in Chelsea was leased from Lord Cheyne. By the +time the lease had expired, Sir Hans Sloane was owner of +the property, having purchased it from Lord Cheyne +in 1712. He granted the land to the Apothecaries’ +Company on a yearly rent of £5, on condition that it +should always be maintained as a Physic Garden, and +certain other conditions, such as supplying a number +of specimens to the Royal Society. The deed of gift +further provided that should the Apothecaries not continue +to fulfil their obligation, the Garden should be held +in trust by the Royal Society, and should they not wish +to take it over, by the College of Physicians. It was +acting in conformity with these wishes, that, when the +Apothecaries ceased to desire to maintain it, the Charity<span class="pagenum" id="Page_319">319</span> +Commissioners, in 1898, established a scheme for the +management of the Garden: £800 towards its maintenance +was provided by the London Parochial Charities, +who became trustees of the Garden, and £150 by the +Treasury. A committee was appointed to manage the +Garden, and see that it fulfilled the founder’s intentions. +The original societies mentioned by Sir Hans +Sloane, the Treasury, the London County Council, +and other modern bodies each nominate one representative +on the board of management, and the trustees +appoint nine. It has been worked under this scheme +since May 1899. The buildings and green-houses, +which were tumbling down, have been rebuilt, and now +include up-to-date conveniences for growing and rearing +plants, and a well-fitted laboratory and lecture room. +The Garden is certainly now fulfilling the purposes +for which it was founded. It has proved to be of the +greatest use to the students of the Royal College of +Science, and members of schools and polytechnics. Cut +specimens, for demonstration at lectures, are sent out in +quantities during the summer, often as many as 750 in a +day. Students and teachers have admission to the Garden, +and the numbers who come (nearly 3000 is the average +annual attendance) show it is appreciated. Lectures on advanced +botany have been attended by an average of seventy +students, and research experiments are carried on in the +laboratory. Seeds are exchanged with botanical gardens +all over the world, to the extent of over a thousand +packets in a year. In this it is carrying on a very early +tradition, as seeds were exchanged with the University of +Leyden in 1682, after Dr. Herman, from that city, had +visited Chelsea.</p> + +<p>Even in its early days the Apothecaries found the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_320">320</span> +Garden expensive to keep up. When in 1685 it cost +them £130, besides the Curator’s salary, they made an +arrangement, by which they paid him £100 a year, out +of which he had to keep up the Garden, and was allowed +to sell the plants. Watt was the first Curator under this +new plan, and Doody, a botanist of some standing who +succeeded him, was under the same conditions. Philip +Miller was appointed Curator, after the land had been +given by Sir Hans Sloane, and other well-known men +have been connected with it. After 1724, besides the +Curator, a “Præfectus Horti,” or Director, was appointed +to visit and inspect the Garden, and report on its condition +to the Company. Sometimes there was a little +rivalry between the two, and at one time this occasioned +two lists of the plants contained in the Garden being +published, one by Isaac Rand, the other by Philip Miller. +Among the famous names in botany or horticulture connected +with the Garden are Dr. Dale, Mrs. Elizabeth +Blackwell, James Sherard and his brother William, +Joseph Millar, William Curtis, Forsyth, Robert Fortune +and Dr. Lindley, and Nathaniel Ward, the inventor of +“Wardian Cases.” But of all the Curators, Philip +Miller was one of the most eminent, and did most +for the Garden. His Dictionary was for years the +standard work on horticulture, and went through +numerous editions and translations. He published a +catalogue of plants in the Physic Garden in 1730. +The last “Præfectus Horti” was Lindley, who held +the office from 1835 to 1853. During that time the +expenses were getting too heavy for the Society, and +after his death no successor was appointed. Thomas +Moore, who was co-editor with Lindley of the well-known +“Treasury of Botany,” and author of several<span class="pagenum" id="Page_321">321</span> +works on British ferns, continued alone as Curator. He +held the office from 1848 to 1887. During his later years +the Garden gradually declined for want of funds, and +after his death no new appointment was made by the +Apothecaries, and a labourer looked after the grounds. +With the advent of the new authority and great expansion +of work, the office was once more bestowed on a +competent man, William Hales, the present Curator, who +ably maintains the old traditions of the garden.</p> + +<p>One of the institutions of early days which has had +to be discontinued was the “herborising.” Expeditions +in search of herbs were undertaken by the students, in +company of their teacher, in the neighbourhood. After +1834, owing to the spread of London, these excursions +had to be abandoned.</p> + +<p>The famous cedars were planted in Watt’s time, and +from contemporary references to them, there seems no +doubt that they were the first to be grown in England. +John Evelyn in his “Sylva” in 1663, writing of the +cedar, says, “Why should it not thrive in Old England?” +and Ray is astonished in 1684 to see the young trees +flourishing at Chelsea without protection. They are +shown in a plan of the Garden in 1753 (the year of Sir +Hans Sloane’s death) at the four corners of a pond, +which no longer remains in the same position. Eighteen +years later the two furthest from the river were cut +down (1771), “being in a decayed state” (and no wonder) +from the rough usage they had been subjected to. The +timber, 133¾ feet, was sold at 2s. 8d. a foot, and, together +with the branches, the trees fetched £23, 9s. 8d. The +two specimens nearest the river were for nearly a hundred +years a conspicuous object, although much injured by +snow in 1809. By 1871, only one remained, and, in a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_322">322</span> +report of the Garden seven years later, it was said to be +in a “dying condition.” At the time the new Management +Committee came into office, that one was quite +dead. They left the tree standing until the fungi on it +became a danger to the rest of the trees in the Garden, +when most reluctantly it was felled in March 1904, all +the sound parts of the timber being carefully preserved. +Miller gives a good account of them in his time. “The +four trees,” he writes, “(which as I have been credibly +informed) were planted there in the year 1683, and at +that time were not above three feet high; two of which +Trees are at this time (viz. 1757) upwards of eleven +feet and a Half in girt, at two Feet above ground, and +thereby afford a goodly shade in the hotest Season of the +Year.” He goes on to point out that they were planted +so near the pond, which was bricked up to within two +feet of them, that the roots could not spread on one +side. Whether the water was good for them he is not +sure, but feels certain it was injurious to cramp the +roots. The two specimens nearest the green-house had +had some of their branches lopped off, to prevent their +shading the grass, and suffered in consequence. Though +one remained for nearly 150 years after Miller gave these +measurements, it was only 13 feet round the trunk +at the base when it was felled, and was so completely +rotten it must soon have fallen. Miller records that +three of the trees began producing cones about 1732, +and that in his time the seeds ripened, and germinated +freely, so it is probable that many plants in England are +descendants of the Chelsea trees. That these were +actually the first to be grown in England there is not +much doubt. Evelyn regrets in his “Sylva” the absence +of the cedars in England. The only trees which have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_323">323</span> +put forth rival claims to the Chelsea ones are those of +Bretby and Enfield. The Bretby one is undoubtedly +very old, but there is no early reference to it in histories +which mention the Enfield trees, and the famous one at +Hendon, traditionally planted by Queen Elizabeth and +blown down in 1779, and a few others; and there is no +contemporary evidence of the date of its planting to +warrant the assumption that it was before 1683. The +Enfield tree in the garden of Robert Uvedale was said, in +1823, by Henry Phillips, to be about 156 years old, therefore +older than the Chelsea ones by some six years; but +there is no evidence to corroborate this. When Gibson +describes the Garden in 1691, he makes no mention of it, +and it seems unlikely he would have omitted such an +important tree. There exists much correspondence with +Uvedale and botanists of his time, but in none of the +letters or early notices is the cedar mentioned before +Ray’s note of the Chelsea trees, or even referred to as +the first planted in England, so it seems the Chelsea +trees’ claim to be the first is fairly established.</p> + +<p>The oriental plane, which fell just as it was going to be +taken down in 1904, was one of the finest in London, +planted by Philip Miller, and is quoted by Loudon, in +1837, as then 115 feet high. Some of the other famous +trees have also died, such as the cork trees and paper +mulberries; but some have been more fortunate, and are +among the oldest of their kind in England. The <i class="flora" lang="la">Koelreuteria +paniculata</i> is probably the finest in this country, +and the other old trees which were noted as being particularly +fine specimens in 1813 or 1820, and which +are still alive, are <i class="flora" lang="la">Diospyros Virginiana</i>, the Persimmon +or Virginian date plum, the Quercus ilex, black walnut, +mulberry, and <i class="flora" lang="la">Styrax officinale</i>. <i class="flora" lang="la">Rhus juglandifolia</i>, which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_324">324</span> +grows by the wall, was probably planted when introduced +from Nepaul in 1823. The wistaria and pomegranate +are old and still flourishing, and young plants +of the trees once famous in the Garden are doing +well. The amount of attention the novelties in the +Physic Garden used to attract is well shown by the +spurious translation of De Sorbière’s travels. The little +book, published in 1698, purported to be a translation +of De Sorbière, but was really an original skit. The +writer pretends De Sorbière visited the Garden, and reported +a delightful series of imaginary flowers. “I was +at Chelsey, where I took particular notice of the plants +in the Green House at that time, as <i class="flora" lang="la">Urtica male oleus +Japoniæ</i>, the stinking nettle of Japan; <i class="flora" lang="la">Goosberia sterelis +Armenia</i>, the Armenian gooseberry bush that bears no +fruit (this had been potted thirty years); <i class="flora" lang="la">Brambelia fructificans +Laplandiæ</i>, or the Blooming Bramble of Lapland; +with a hundred other curious plants, and a particular +Collection of Briars and Thorns, which were some part +of the curse of the Creation.” That it was worth while +laughing at the Garden in a popular skit, shows what +an important position it had taken. The green-houses +were among the earliest attempted, and many scientific +visitors describe their plans and arrangements. They +were rebuilt at great cost in 1732. The statue to Sir +Hans Sloane, by Michael Rysbrach, stood in a niche in +the green-house wall. It was moved to the centre of the +Garden in 1751, where it still stands. The Garden was +honoured by a visit from the great Linnæus in 1736, and +he noted in his diary: “Miller of Chelsea permitted me +to collect many plants in the Garden, and gave me several +dried specimens collected in South America.” Among +the valuable bequests to the Garden were collections of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_325">325</span> +dried plants, now in the British Museum of Natural +History, and a library left by Dr. Dale in 1739, on condition +that “suitable and proper conveniences” were +made for them at the Physic Garden. They should be +there still, and the new buildings are eminently suited +for their reception; and their use to students would be +very great, now that the Garden is well equipped for +supplying all the requirements for the modern teaching +of botany.</p> + +<figure id="i_p324c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 47em;"> + <img src="images/i_p324c.jpg" width="741" height="556" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p324c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + CHELSEA PHYSIC GARDEN + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Before quitting these gardens of historic interest, +there is one which must not be forgotten, although its +former charms have vanished, and it can no longer claim +such botanical curiosities as the Chelsea Physic Garden—that +is, the remains of John Evelyn’s Garden of Sayes +Court. The Garden is now enjoyed by numbers in that +crowded district of Deptford, through the kindness of +Mr. Evelyn, the descendant of the famous diarist, John +Evelyn, who keeps it up as well as opens it to the public. +The Manor of Deptford was retained by the Crown in +James I.’s time, and Sayes Court was leased to Christopher +Browne, the grandfather of Sir Richard Browne, +whose only daughter and heiress John Evelyn married. +After his wife had succeeded to the property, and they +had lived there some years and made the Garden, John +Evelyn purchased the freehold land from Charles II. +The delight he took in his garden, how he exchanged +seeds and plants, imported rare specimens from abroad, +through his many friends, and grew them with success, +is well known. The ruthless way his treasures were +treated by Peter the Great was a sore trial to Evelyn. +The Czar amused himself, among other acts of vandalism, +by being wheeled about the beds and hedges +in a wheelbarrow. The holly hedge, even, he partially<span class="pagenum" id="Page_326">326</span> +destroyed. In writing of the merits of holly in his +“Sylva,” Evelyn says of this one: “Is there under +heaven a more glorious and refreshing object of the kind, +than an impregnable Hedge a hundred and sixty feet in +length, and seven feet high, and five in diameter, which +I can shew in my poor Gardens at any time of the year, +glittering with its armed and vernish’d leaves? the taller +Standards at orderly distances blushing with their natural +Corall. It mocks at the rudest assaults of the Weather, +Beasts, and Hedgebreakers.” This hedge has long since +departed, but young hollies, planted in groups on the +same part of the Garden, keep up the old associations. +One wing of the house is standing, and is at present used +as a school. The walled garden on the south side is +still there, and on the north a wide terrace walk, with a +straight grass lawn with large beds, is in keeping with +the old place. But instead of the views over the river, +and the Garden descending to the water’s edge, there is a +high rampart of the buildings of the Foreign Cattle +Market, from whence the sounds of lowing oxen mingle +with the din of streets which close round the Garden on +the three other sides. In spite of these drawbacks, it is +delightful to know, that the surviving portion of the once-beautiful +Garden is fulfilling a want among the poor in +a way that would have appealed to the generous and +kind-hearted author.</p> + +<div class="tb">* * * * *</div> + +<p>These are some of the chief gardens of historic +interest, but it by no means exhausts the list of the +smaller ones rich in associations, green courts attached to +schools, almshouses, hospitals, or such-like, which are +hidden away in unexpected corners throughout London.</p> +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_327">327</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIII"><span id="toclink_327"></span><span class="gesperrt">CHAPTER XIII</span><br> + +<span class="subhead">PRIVATE GARDENS</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Even in the stifling bosom of a town</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>A garden, in which nothing thrives, has charms</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>That soothe the rich possessor</i>; ...</div> + </div> + <div class="attrib">—<span class="smcap">Cowper.</span></div> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="idc idcI"><img src="images/i_idc_i.png" width="178" height="182" alt="I"> +<span class="firstword">In</span> writing of the private gardens of +London it is difficult to know +where to begin. There are a few +large and beautiful gardens, but +for the most part the smaller they +are, and the less there is to write +about them of interest to the +general reader, the more they are +of value to the happy possessors. It is the minute +back-garden, invaded by all the cats of the neighbourhood, +with a few plants on which an infinity of time +and trouble, care and thought, have been expended, +that is the real typical London garden. What a joy to +see the patches of seeds come up in the summer, and +with what expectation are the buds on the one lilac +bush examined to see if really at last it is going to +flower! What pleasure the fern dug up on a summer +holiday gives, as it bravely uncurls its fronds year by +year! What delight is occasioned if the Virginian +creeper, which covers the wall, grows more luxuriantly +than those of the houses on either side, and what excitement<span class="pagenum" id="Page_328">328</span> +if it really turns red once in a way in October, +instead of shrivelling up to an inglorious end! What +grief is felt when the fuchsia, purchased as a fitting +centre-piece to the formal geranium bed, loses its buds +one by one before they expand! These and many +similar joys and sorrows are the portion of those who +tend small gardens in London. How fascinating it is +to look into back-gardens as the train passes over +viaducts out of the heart of the town. Certainly the +differences in their appearance show what skill and +devotion can accomplish. Nothing but real love of +the plants, and a tender solicitude for their welfare, can +induce them to exist in the confined areas and stifling +atmosphere of the average London garden. But even +these inauspicious surroundings may be brightened by +flowers. When those absolutely ignorant of the requirements +of plant life take to gardening in the country, +they have Nature at hand to help them. The sunlight, +air, and good soil supplement their deficiencies of knowledge, +and, though terribly handicapped by careless +planting, unsuitable situations, want of water, and such +drawbacks, the plants can struggle with success to maintain +their natural beauty. But let the ignorant try in +town to grow plants, where all the conditions militate +against them, instead of assisting, and the results are +very different. For instance, many a small back-garden, +or even window box, is planted year after year with no +renewal of the soil. The crumbling mould, which is +either caked hard or pours like dust from the hand, is +completely exhausted, and the poor plants are starved. +They should be given plenty of what in gardeners’ +slang is called “good stuff,” if they are to grow in such +adverse conditions. A little of the money expended on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_329">329</span> +plants which dwindle and die, spent on manure or good +soil, would better repay the would-be gardener. Many +plants require a good deal of water when making their +growth, and if that is denied them they will not thrive, +no matter how great the solicitude for their welfare in +other ways. Washing the leaves, especially of evergreens, +and scrubbing stems is also a great help, as leaves +choked with dirt have no chance of imbibing the life-giving +properties necessary to the plant.</p> + +<p>The back-garden has many enemies besides soot and +fogs. Cats are one of the greatest trials, and most +destructive. Sparrows also are very mischievous. They +will pick the flower-buds off trees just at the critical +moment. A wistaria climber laden with young blossoms +they will destroy in a few days, just before the purple +buds appear. But, notwithstanding all these pests +and difficulties, it is surprising how many things will +not only survive, but grow well. The task becomes +more and more easy as the houses recede from the City. +In St. John’s Wood, Bayswater, or Earl’s Court, in +Camberwell or Stoke Newington, plants will grow better +than in Bloomsbury or Southwark. But yet it is possible +to grow many things even in Whitechapel.</p> + +<p>It is impossible to prescribe the best plants for all +London gardens, as there is such a great difference in +soil and aspect, that what does well in one part will not +flourish in another. The heavy soil of Regent’s Park, +for instance, is well suited to peonies, which do not seem +at home in Chelsea. On the other hand, some of the +showy, hardy spring flowers, such as wallflowers and +forget-me-nots, die off with fogs much more quickly +in the Regent’s Park than in other districts. Any +deciduous tree or shrub thrives better than an evergreen<span class="pagenum" id="Page_330">330</span> +or a conifer in any part of London. The fresh growth +of clean leaves every year, by which the plant absorbs +much of its nourishment, must necessarily be better +for it than dried-up, blackened leaves. Among flowering +shrubs, a great number grow sturdily in London. +Laburnums of all kinds, thorns in many varieties, flower +well; lilacs grow and look fresh and green everywhere, +but cannot be depended on always to flower; almonds, +snowy medlars, double cherries, weigelas or diervillas +succeed; broom, Forsythias, acacia, syringa, many kinds +of prunus, ribes, rose acacia, Guelder rose, Japanese red +peach, <i class="flora" lang="la">Kerria japonica</i>, <i class="flora" lang="la">Hibiscus Syriacus</i>, or <i class="flora" lang="la">Althæa frutex</i>, +are all satisfactory, and many more could be mentioned. +<i class="flora" lang="la">Yucca gloriosa</i> will stand any amount of smoke, and +<i class="flora" lang="la">Aralia spinosa</i> does well in many parts; and among +evergreens, <i class="flora" lang="la">Arbutus Andrachne</i> can be recommended. +Fruit-trees, pears, and apples are charming when in +bloom, and in a large space, or to cover a wall, figs +are valuable.</p> + +<p>Alpines grow astonishingly well, and though a considerable +percentage will die from the alternating damp +fogs and frost in the winter, many will really establish +themselves, and be quite at home, much nearer the +heart of London than Dulwich, where many have +been cultivated. “I know a bank whereon the wild +thyme grows” in London—not a green, mossy bank, +but rather a blackened rockery; still the slope is +really covered with large patches of wild thyme, purple +with bloom in the summer, carefully marked by the +London County Council “<i class="flora" lang="la">Thymus serpyllum</i>,” for the +benefit of the inquiring. Several of the other thymes, +which form good carpets, will also grow. <i class="flora" lang="la">Antennaria +dioica</i>, a British plant, forms a pretty silvery groundwork<span class="pagenum" id="Page_331">331</span> +on beds or rockeries, and nothing seems to kill +it. Saxifrages in great numbers are suitable, beginning +with the well-known mossy green <i class="flora" lang="la">hypnoides</i>, to the +giant known as <i class="flora" lang="la">Megasia cordifolia</i>, also sedums, semper-viviums, +aubrietias, phloxes, tiarella, dianthus in variety; +and several other Alpines have succeeded in different +parks and gardens, such as <i class="flora" lang="la">Androsace sarmentosa</i>, <i class="flora" lang="la">Dryas +octopetala</i>, yellow fumitory, <i class="flora" lang="la">Cotoneaster frigida</i>, the small +ivy <i class="flora" lang="la">Hedera conglomerata</i>, <i class="flora" lang="la">Achillea tormentosa</i>, <i class="flora" lang="la">Lychnis +Haageana</i>, <i class="flora" lang="la">Linnæa borealis</i>, <i class="flora" lang="la">Azalea procumbens</i>, <i class="flora" lang="la">Campanula +garganica</i>, only to mention some that have been noticed; +even edelweiss has been successfully grown in the centre +of London.</p> + +<p>A few annuals will make a good show, and nothing +is better in a window-box or really dingy corner than +Virginian stock; but, as a rule, it repays trouble best +to rear perennials. Seedling wallflowers, sweet Williams +and Canterbury bells, and such like, make a border +bright. The great secret of success in growing annuals +is to thin them out well; the patches of seedlings are +too often left far too much overcrowded. This +“thinning” is even more important than good soil and +careful watering. Marigolds thrive best of all, and +will often seed themselves, but a few other annuals +can be safely recommended.</p> + +<ul class="list"> +<li>Candytuft.</li> +<li>Catchfly. (Silene pendula and</li> +<li>armeria).</li> +<li>Erysinum perofskianum (a kind of</li> +<li>Treacle mustard).</li> +<li>Eschscholzia.</li> +<li>Flax (scarlet).</li> +<li>Godetias.</li> +<li>Ionopsidium acaule (violet cress).</li> +<li>Larkspur (annual).</li> +<li>Love-in-a-mist (Nigella).</li> +<li>Nasturtiums.</li> +<li>Phlox drummondi.</li> +<li>Snapdragon (Antirrhinum).</li> +<li>Toadflax (Linaria).</li> +</ul> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_332">332</span></p> + +<p>Very many things may succeed well that are not +specially noted here, but the following list of fifty herbaceous +plants have all been seen really growing, and +coming up, year after year, in private gardens in London. +Some are not so sturdy as others; for instance, neither +alyssum nor phlox flourish as well as thrift or the +members of the iris tribe, but all are hardy in London. +Thomas Fairchild, who had a famous nursery garden +at Hoxton, writing of City gardens in 1722, gives his +experience of plants that succeed best, and many on +his list are those that do well still. He specially notes +some growing in the most shut-in parts of the City, +which were flourishing: fraxinella in Aldermanbury, +monkshood and lily of the valley near the Guildhall, +bladder senna in Crutched Friars, and so on, mentioning +many of those which still prove the most smoke-resisting. +One large, coarse, but handsome plant deserves mention, +as it grows so well it will seed itself, and that is the +giant heracleum. It propagates itself in the garden of +Lowther Lodge, Kensington Gore, and in much more +confined spaces, even in the garden used by the London +Hospital, near the Mile End Road.</p> + +<h3>LIST OF FIFTY HERBACEOUS PLANTS</h3> + +<ul class="list"> +<li>Alyssum.</li> +<li>Auricula.</li> +<li>Bachelors’ buttons.</li> +<li>Buglos.</li> +<li>Campanula—several varieties.</li> +<li>Candytuft.</li> +<li>Carnations.</li> +<li>Centaurea.</li> +<li>Chrysanthemums.</li> +<li>Columbines.</li> +<li>Comfrey.</li> +<li>Crane’s bill.</li> +<li>Creeping Jenny.</li> +<li>Crown Imperial.</li> +<li>Cyclamen.</li> +<li>Day lilies.</li> +<li>Dictamnus fraxinella (burning bush).</li> +<li>Doronicum (leopard’s bane).</li> +<li>Erigeron (Fleabane).</li> +<li>Funkias (Plantain lilies).<span class="pagenum" id="Page_333">333</span></li> +<li>Galega officinalis.</li> +<li>Golden rod (solidago).</li> +<li>Heucheras.</li> +<li>Hollyhocks.</li> +<li>Iris—several varieties, especially those with rhizomes and non-bulbous roots.</li> +<li>Japanese anemone.</li> +<li>Larkspur.</li> +<li>Lilies of the valley.</li> +<li>Lilies—</li> +<li> Canadense.</li> +<li> Candidum.</li> +<li> Davuricum.</li> +<li> Lancifolium (speciosum).</li> +<li> Martagon dalmaticum.</li> +<li> Pyrenaicum.</li> +<li> Tigrinum.</li> +<li>London Pride (also many other Saxifrages).</li> +<li>Lupin.</li> +<li>Mallow.</li> +<li>Michaelmas daisies.</li> +<li>Monkshood.</li> +<li>Montbretia.</li> +<li>Pansies.</li> +<li>Periwinkle.</li> +<li>Phlox.</li> +<li>Polygonum.</li> +<li>Primroses (also Japanese primulas, cowslips, and polyanthus).</li> +<li>Pyrethrum.</li> +<li>Rock roses.</li> +<li>Solomon’s seal.</li> +<li>Southernwood.</li> +<li>Speedwell (Veronica amethystina and others).</li> +<li>Spiræa (S. aruncus, venusta, &c.).</li> +<li>Sunflower (perennial, including Harpalium).</li> +<li>Thrift.</li> +<li>Tradescantia.</li> +<li>Trollius.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Of climbing plants the Virginian creeper, which +makes a green bower of so many London houses, must +come first, but the real grape vine is quite as successful. +In several parts of London vines laden with grapes may +be seen in the autumn, by those on the look-out for +such things. One vine in Buckingham Gate had forty +bunches of fruit that ripened in 1906. On one branch +of a vine, near Ladbroke Square, fourteen purple bunches +were hanging in a row at the same time, and in other +parts of the town well-cared-for vines will bear well. +Wistaria also thrives, and jasmine, yellow or white, and +ivy. Besides these in constant use, for more special +gardens there are Everlasting peas, Dutchman’s pipe +(<i class="flora" lang="la">Aristolochia</i>), clematis, Jackmani, Montana, or the Wild<span class="pagenum" id="Page_334">334</span> +Traveller’s Joy, and Passion flower; also convolvulus, +<i class="flora" lang="la">Cobæa scandens</i>, and gourds of all kinds for the +summer.</p> + +<p>Spring flowers planted in autumn succeed, and even +those in pots or boxes in windows or on roof gardens +flower freely. Hyacinths, crocus, tulips, daffodils, and +narcissus do well; snowdrops are not so successful as a +rule, but Spanish Iris will make a good show when the +earlier bulbs are over. The minute green-house which +often opens out of a staircase window in London houses +can easily be made gay in spring by this means. Acorns +and chestnuts sown in the autumn in shallow pans and +covered with moss make a delightful small forest from +May onwards. Foxgloves dug out of the woods will +flower well in these dingy little green-houses, and are a +delightful contrast to the ferns which will flourish best +in them. A few other plants are sturdy for this purpose, +such as the fan palms, <i class="flora" lang="la">Chamærops excelsa</i>, <i class="flora" lang="la">Fortunei</i>, and +<i class="flora" lang="la">humilis</i>, Aspidistra, <i class="flora" lang="la">Aralia Sieboldii</i>, <i class="flora" lang="la">Selaginella Kraussina</i>, +the Cornish money-wort (Sibthorpia). Geraniums will +flower well, and Imantophyllums (or Clivias) are one of +the most accommodating plants for such small green-houses, +as although they take up an undue share of +room on account of the large pots necessary, they will +flower well every year.</p> + +<figure id="i_p334c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 49em;"> + <img src="images/i_p334c.jpg" width="776" height="521" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p334c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + THE GARDEN OF SIR LAURENCE ALMA-TADEMA, R.A. + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Roses only do fairly well; but though they sometimes +will last two or three years, they are apt to give +disappointments and must often be renewed. The +climbing roses, however, in some gardens are very +charming. In one of the prettiest in London—that +belonging to Sir Laurence Alma-Tadema, in Grove End +Road—the illustration shows how charmingly an iron +trellis is covered with red and white roses. The garden<span class="pagenum" id="Page_335">335</span> +is most artistically arranged and is a good illustration of +how much can be made of a small space. A large evergreen +oak overhangs the basin with a stone margin and +splashing fountain, on which water-lilies gracefully float. +The variety and harmony of the whole garden, with its +paths shaded by fig-trees, apples and pears, cherries and +lilacs, sunny borders with Scotch roses, Day lilies, foxgloves, +and iris, and formal fountains, all in a small space, +yet not crowded, and bright with flowers, is delightful. +Another small garden in Kensington—tended by Lady +Bergne—of quite another type, contains nearly all the +flowers that have been mentioned as growing well in +London. It is only the stereotyped long narrow strip +at the back of the house; but by putting a path and +rock-work and pools of water on one side, and having +grass and flower borders on the other, backed by flowering +shrubs and ferns at the shaded end, a great variety +of plants have been grown successfully.</p> + +<p>In most London gardens very little enterprise is +shown. The old system of bedding out is adhered to. +Of the large London houses standing by their own +lawns, none have gardens of any horticultural interest. +Montagu House is on the site of the extensive gardens +of Whitehall, and the present lawn is where the bowling +green, with its gay throng of players, lay in former +years, and the terrace keeps up the tradition of the wide +terraces that descended from the palace to the green. +The turf is still fair and green, and is brightened in +summer by lines of geraniums, white daisies, and +calceolarias. Devonshire House garden, on the site +of the famous one belonging to Berkeley House that +covered all the present Square, is in the same way +merely planted with the usual summer bedding plants.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_336">336</span> +Lord Portman’s house, 22 Portman Square, is where +Mrs. Montagu, the Queen of the Blue-Stockings, held +her court. The present garden, with spacious lawn, +has no horticultural peculiarity, but its historical interest +lies in the fact that it was here that Mrs. Montagu +entertained the chimney-sweeps, every year on the 1st of +May. She is said to have done so, to give these poor +children “one happy day in the year,” and when the +horrors and tragedies attending the lives and often +deaths of these cruelly treated little creatures is realised, +it is not to be wondered at that one lady was humane +enough to befriend them.</p> + +<p>A quaint pathetic poem by Allan Cunningham, +written in 1824, records in characteristically stilted +language an incident supposed to have occurred to +Mrs. Montagu. A sad boy, whose life was spent in +climbing flues, is pictured, and one lady he supplicates +turns away—“And lo! another lady came,” and spoke +kindly to him, asked him why he thus spent his life, +listened to his tale of how he was an orphan and “sold +to this cruel trade.”</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“She stroked the sooty locks and smiled,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">While o’er the dusky boy,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">As streams the sunbeam through a cloud,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">There came a flash of joy.</div> + <div class="verse indent0">She took him from his cruel trade,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">And soon the milk-white hue</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Came to his neck; he with the muse</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Sings, ‘Bless the Montagu.’”</div> + </div> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Her kindness is recorded in other poems, and in +her lifetime took the practical shape of a sumptuous +spread of beef and plum-pudding on the lawn of her +house in Portman Square.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_337">337</span></p> + +<p>Grosvenor House garden, with terrace and lawn +sloping down to large trees, has natural advantages for +a beautiful garden, but a row of beds along the terrace +are the only flowers. The owners of these large London +gardens have such an abundance of floral display elsewhere +that no real gardening seems to be attempted. +To understand what are the horticultural possibilities of +London, it is in the minute back-garden that the +lesson must be learned, and the subject studied. +Holland House is an exception to this rule, for there +the most beautiful garden, in keeping with the magnificent +old house, is kept up, and the greatest care and +skill were bestowed on it with wonderful results by +the late Earl of Ilchester.</p> + +<figure id="i_p340c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 47em;"> + <img src="images/i_p340c.jpg" width="742" height="552" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p340c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + THE LILY POND, HOLLAND HOUSE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>No house, perhaps, has more associations than +Holland House. Its history has been so often written, +that to go over it in detail would be superfluous. +Built by Sir Walter Cope, while Elizabeth was on the +throne, from the designs of Thorpe, it doubtless from +the first had a good garden, as in those days great care +was expended on the surroundings of a house, for +people realised, as did Bacon, that, “men come to build +stately, sooner than to garden finely; as if gardening +were the greater perfection.” The second stage in its +history, when it passed to Henry Rich, through his +marriage with Sir Walter Cope’s daughter and heiress, +was even more eventful. He enlarged the house, +which became known as Holland House after Charles I. +had created him Baron Kensington and Earl of Holland. +His wonderful personal charm, inherited from his mother, +the “Stella” of Sir Philip Sidney, made him a general +favourite; but not even his attachment to the Queen +preserved him from disloyalty, although in the end he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_338">338</span> +fought for the King’s cause. While he was on the +Parliamentary side, Holland House was often the +meeting-place of its leaders. Cromwell and Ireton +talked together in the centre of the field in front of +the house, so that their raised voices, occasioned by +Ireton’s deafness, should not be overheard. For a time +after the Restoration, Holland House was tenanted by +various people of note, to whom it was let out in +suites by the widowed Countess. One among them, the +Frenchman Chardin, who became famous by his travels +to Persia, it has been surmised, may have brought some +of the rare plants to the garden. The connection with +Addison came from his marriage with the Dowager +Lady Warwick, to whom the house belonged, the +second Lord Holland having succeeded his cousin as +Earl of Warwick. He must have delighted in the +gardens of Holland House, although they were hardly +so wild as the ideal one he describes in the <i class="flora" lang="la">Spectator</i>. +There he said, “I look upon the pleasure which we +take in a garden as one of the most innocent delights +in human life.” No doubt he found some solace in +the beauties of Holland House garden to cheer the +depression of the unhappiness the marriage had +brought him. The brilliant days of Holland House +continued after it changed hands, and was owned by +Henry Fox, second son of Sir Stephen Fox, +who was chiefly instrumental in starting Chelsea +Hospital. Henry Fox eloped with Lady Caroline +Lennox, and was afterwards created Lord Holland. +He took great interest in his garden, and was advised +and helped by the well-known collector and horticulturist, +Peter Collinson. This friend was the means +of introducing many new plants to this country—a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_339">339</span> +genus Collinsonia was named after him—and he must +have been pleasant and good besides, for his biographer +says to him was attached “all that respect which is due +to benevolence and virtue.” He was in correspondence +with leading men in America, and was constantly receiving +seeds and plants, and his own garden contained “a +more complete assortment of the <i class="flora" lang="la">orchis</i> genus than, +perhaps, had ever been seen in one collection before.” +No doubt some found their way to the gardens of his +friend, Lord Holland. How astonished they both would +be could they peep for a moment at the orchids displayed +in the tents of the Horticultural Society’s shows, +which have been allowed to take place in the park +where Cromwell conversed? At this time the gardens +must have been considerably remodelled, as the taste +for the formal was waning, and the “natural” school +taking its place. One of the pioneers of the natural +style, Charles Hamilton, assisted the new design. His +own place, Painshill, near Cobham, in Surrey, embraced +all the newest ideas, groves, thickets, lakes, temples, +grottos, sham ruins, and hermitages. A contemporary +admirer, Wheatley, says of Painshill, it “is all a new +creation; and a boldness of design, and a happiness of +execution attend the wonderful efforts which art has +there made to rival nature.” No doubt this adept in +the new art would introduce many changes. The +“Green Lane” was a road shut up by Lady Holland, +and Hamilton is said to have suggested turfing it. He +appears to have been fond of woodland glades and turfed +the shaded walks in his own creation, so it seems very +likely that the idea of grass was his. In the Green Lane, +Charles James Fox, son of the first Lady Holland, who +closed the road, loved to walk, and still the Green Lane<span class="pagenum" id="Page_340">340</span> +is one of the most attractive spots in all London. The +fame of Holland House increased as time went on, and +some of its most brilliant days were during the time +of the third Lord Holland, when Lady Holland drew +all the wit and fashion of London to her salon. +Although it is no longer a country place, and though +no highwaymen have to be braved to reach it, and +though its surroundings are completely changed, the +garden of Holland House was never more beautiful +than it is to-day. It is easy to forget it is a London +garden, the flowers look so clean and fresh. The long +vista into the rose garden from the lawn, which lies +to the north, is flanked on either side with pink roses, +that pretty free-flowering Caroline Testout. To the +west, overlooking the Dutch garden, the view is even +more attractive, and the garden so well harmonises with +the house that it is easy to picture the beaux in wigs, +and ladies in hoops and powder, moving among the +box-edged beds. On the south, the wide terrace shown +in the sketch was made in 1848, when the footpath was +altered and the entrance to the house changed to the +eastern side. The stone basin in the centre was put +in by the late Lord Ilchester. The hybrid water-lilies, +raised by Marliac, grow well in it, and that rather +delicate, but most beautiful of the Sagittarias, <i class="flora" lang="la">montevidensis</i> +has flowered there. The raised terrace on the +arches of the old stables, which encloses one side of +the garden and is covered with a tangle of ivy, affords +a charming view over the Dutch garden. Beyond +is the old ballroom, orangery and garden enclosed by +arches of cut limes. A terrace runs to the south of +the Dutch garden and orangery, and the Italian garden +which lies here is in itself as complete a contrast to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_341">341</span> +box-edged beds of the Dutch garden as is the Japanese +garden, a new addition which lies further to the north. +It was near here that the fatal duel between Lord +Camelford and Colonel Best took place in 1804. There +is yet another small enclosed garden cut off by thick +yew hedges and fat hollies from the rest. In it is the +seat inscribed with lines to the poet <span class="locked">Rogers:—</span></p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indentq">“Here Rogers sat, and here forever dwell</div> + <div class="verse indent0">With me those Pleasures that he sings so well.”</div> + </div> +</div> +</div> + +<p>In this garden, year by year, dahlias have grown +ever since they were first successfully grown in England. +In 1789 the dahlia came for the first time from the +New World to the Old. It was then sent to Spain, +and that same year Lady Bute procured some from +Madrid. She was not, however, successful in growing +it and it quite died out, until it was reintroduced by +Lady Holland in 1804. The plants remained rare in +England for some years. It was being grown in France, +Germany, and Holland, but little had been done to +improve the original plant. When, however, a larger +supply was available in England after 1814, the English +growers took it up, and produced, before long, the +round very double flowers which soon became the rage. +In stilted style a writer in 1824 describes the dahlia +mania, after giving the history of its introduction. “It +was left to English capital and perseverance,” he says, +“to illuminate the northern part of the globe by the +full brilliancy of these floral luminaries.” Thus in +extravagant language he continues to sing the praises +of the dahlia. It is curious that the name is now +generally pronounced as if it were “dalea,” forgetful +of the fact that there is a flower, something like a vetch,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_342">342</span> +called “Dalea” by Linnæus, after Dr. Samuel Dale, who +died in 1739, a well-known botanist and friend of Ray. +The dahlia was named long after in honour of the +Swedish botanist Dahl.</p> + +<p>The so-called “Japanese garden” was made by the +late Lord Ilchester. It is extremely pretty, but is +entirely an English idea of what a Japanese garden is +like, and, however pleasing it may be to the uninitiated, +would probably shock the Japanese gardener, who is +guided by as precise rules in his garden, as the painter +in his art. In Japan the rules governing the laying-out +of a garden are so exact that, apparently, it requires +years of study to acquire the rudiments. The Japanese +garden at Holland House, which is pleasing to the +English eye, consists of a little stream descending +through grassy lawns, with groups of plants, a stone +lantern, and rustic bridges, and water plants at each +little pond. The delightful <i class="flora" lang="la">Iris kæmpferi</i> flowers well, +and yuccas, which, by the way, come from America, +and not Japan; neither do <i class="flora" lang="la">Aralia spinosa</i> or <i class="flora" lang="la">Saxifraga +peltata</i>, which together form charming groups, with +auratum lilies in the summer and other Japanese plants. +The French hybrid water-lilies, of varying shades of +pink, red, and yellow, here too make a picture, with +their brilliant blossoms floating on the miniature pools—while +bamboos, maples, and eulalias, true natives of +Japan, make a soft and feathery background. Above +the Japanese garden there is a well-furnished rock +garden, and between that and the roses, which make +such a grand display on the north of the house, green +walks through rhododendrons and flowering shrubs +unite the gardens. There are some really fine trees, +as well as all the charming flowers, in the grounds.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_343">343</span> +Near the bridge leading to the Japanese garden there +is a beautiful evergreen oak and rare forest trees, while +on the lawn some old cedars, planted by Charles James +Fox, are showing signs of decrepitude, although the +delightful picturesque effect a cedar always has, adds +one more to the many charms of this, the most beautiful +as well as the largest of London gardens.</p> + +<p>There is a charming group of houses standing in +their own grounds still left on Campden Hill, although +Campden House has been demolished and its site built +over within the last few years. The property on which +Campden House stood, and some authorities say the +house itself, was won over some game of chance in +James I.’s time by Sir Baptist Hicks, afterwards Viscount +Campden, from Sir Walter Cope, the builder of Holland +House, hard by. It was to Campden House that Queen +Anne’s little son, the Duke of Gloucester, was taken +for country air. The air is still pleasant on these +heights, and the open tract of Holland Park gives so +much freshness that plants flourish wonderfully. There +are good gardens attached to many of the houses—Cam +House, Blundell House, Aubrey House, Thornwood, +Holly, and Moray Lodges, and several others. Holly +Lodge is noteworthy as having for a few years been +the residence of Lord Macaulay. There are some +charming trees in the grounds, even yews (which are +among the first to suffer from smoke) looking well; a +good old mulberry and silver elms, and a camellia in a +border near the wall, which often flowers out of doors, +although some years the half-open buds drop off from +the effects of frosty fogs.</p> + +<p>Cam House has one of the most charming gardens. +It is now lived in by Sir Walter Phillimore, and has<span class="pagenum" id="Page_344">344</span> +been in his family for some 150 years. It was well +known as Argyll Lodge, as the late Duke bought the +lease and made it his town residence from the time +he first took office in Lord Aberdeen’s ministry in 1852. +Before that it was known as Bedford Lodge, as the +Duchess of Bedford, step-mother of Lord John Russell, +the Prime Minister, had lived there and laid out and +planted most of the garden. The “two very old oaks, +which,” wrote the Duke of Argyll, “would have done +no discredit to any ancient chase in England,” are still +to be seen. The Duke was also delighted with the wild +birds which there made their homes in the garden; in +fact, he says in his Memoirs, it was the sight of the +“fine lawn covered with starlings, hunting for grubs +and insects in their very peculiar fashion,” the nut-hatches +“moving over the trees, as if they were in +some deep English woodland,” the fly-catchers and the +warblers, that made him decide to take the house. +During the half-century he lived there many of the +birds, the fly catchers, reed-wren, black cap, and willow-wren, +and nut-hatches, deserted the garden, but even +now starlings and wood-pigeons abound, and, what is +even more rare in London, squirrels may be seen +swinging from branch to branch of the old trees. Besides +the two old pollard oaks there are good beech and +copper-beech, elder, chestnuts, snowy medlar, sycamore, +several varieties of thorn, and a large Scotch laburnum, +<i class="flora" lang="la">Laburnum alpinum</i>, which flowers later than the ordinary +laburnum, and is therefore valuable to prolong the +season of these golden showers. The leaves are broader +and darker, and growth more spreading. On the vine +trellis is a curious old vine with strongly scented flowers. +All the plants which thrive in London are well grown<span class="pagenum" id="Page_345">345</span> +in the charming formal garden and along the old wall, +which is covered with delicious climbing plants. So +luxuriously will some flowers grow, that the hollyhocks +from this garden took the prize at the horticultural +show held in the grounds of Holland House, in a +competition open to all the gardens in the Kingdom.</p> + +<p>At Fulham there is a charming garden, with trees +which would be remarkable anywhere, and appear still +more beautiful from their proximity to London. These +trees in the grounds of Broom House have fared on +the whole better than those at Fulham Palace, hard by. +It is separated from the Palace by the grounds now +attached to the club of Hurlingham. Of Hurlingham +there is not much early history. Faulkner, the authority +for this district, writes in 1813: “Hurlingham Field +is now the property of the Earl of Ranelagh and the +site of his house. It was here that great numbers of +people were buried during the Plague.” The same +authority mentions: “The Dowager Countess of Lonsdale +has an elegant house and gardens here in full view +of the Thames,” and Broom House is shown on +Rocque’s map of 1757. The estate was bought by Mr. +Sulivan from the Nepean family in 1824, and his +daughter, Miss Sulivan, keeps up the garden with the +utmost good taste and knowledge of horticulture. The +ailanthus, with a trunk 10 feet 4 inches in girth at +4 feet from the ground, is probably one of the finest +specimens in England. The one in Fulham Palace +garden is exactly the same girth, but does not appear +to be so lofty. The liquidamber is also a magnificent +tree, and the false acacia is quite as fine as the one in +Fulham Palace, and was probably planted at the same +time. There are still two cedars left, although the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_346">346</span> +finest was blown down some years ago, and the timber +afforded panelling for a large room and many pieces of +furniture. Perhaps the most beautiful of the trees is +the copper or purple beech. Not only is it very tall +and has a massive trunk (14 feet 6 inches at 2 feet from +the ground), but the shape is quite perfect, and its +branches are furnished evenly all round. There are +also good evergreen oaks, elms, chestnuts and Scotch +firs. There is a large collection of flowering shrubs, +which are in no way affected by the smoky air. Standard +magnolias, grandiflora, conspicua and stellata, many +varieties of the delightful autumn-flowering plant, the +<i class="flora" lang="la">Hibiscus syriacus</i>, known to older gardeners as <i class="flora" lang="la">Althæa +frutex</i>, and recommended under that name by Fairchild +in 1722 as suited to London, <i class="flora" lang="la">Cratægus pyracantha</i>, <i class="flora" lang="la">Choysia</i>, +<i class="flora" lang="la">Pyrus spectabilis</i>, and many other equally delightful shrubs +all appear most flourishing. These, together with herbaceous +plants and ornamental trees, well grouped in a +garden of good design, with the river flowing at the foot +of it, make the grounds of Broom House rank among +the most attractive about London.</p> + +<figure id="i_p346c" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 53em;"> + <img src="images/i_p346c.jpg" width="842" height="555" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p346c_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + ST. JOHN’S LODGE, REGENT’S PARK + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>A few of the gardens, like this one, have succeeded +in keeping the real stamp of the country, in spite of the +encroachments of the town and the advance of trams and +motor omnibuses, but they are every day becoming more +scarce. Hampstead and Highgate have many such, and +here and there, to the north and on the south of the +river, such delightful spots are to be found, although the +temptation to cut them up and build small red villas on +the sites is very great. Towards the north of London +there are many small gardens which are bright and attractive, +and without going so far as Hampstead, pleached +walks and small but tastefully arranged grounds are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_347">347</span> +met with. Within Regent’s Park there are several +charming gardens round the detached villas, which have +been already noticed in the chapter on that Park. The +two most interesting from a horticultural point of view +are St. Katharine’s and St. John’s Lodges. The fountain +in the former is the frontispiece to this volume, and +that view says more than any elaborate description. It +might be in some far-away Italian garden, so perfectly +are the sights and sounds of London obliterated. On +a still, hot day, when the fountain drips with a cool +sound and there is a shimmering light of summer over +the distant trees beyond the terrace, the delusion is perfect. +Most of the herbaceous plants which take kindly +to London grow in the border—hollyhocks, day lilies, +poppies, peonies, pulmoneria and lilies, while there is a +large variety of flowering shrubs—ribes, lilacs, buddleias, +shumachs and <i class="flora" lang="la">Aralia spinosa</i>. The kitchen-garden produces +good crops of most of the ordinary vegetables. +The garden is arranged with a definite design; there is +nothing specially formal, no cut trees or anything associated +with some of the formal ideas in England, but there +is method in the design; the trees and plants grow as +Nature intended them, but they are not stuck about in +incongruous disorder and meaningless, distorted lines, +as is so often thought necessary, in designing a garden or +“improving” a park.</p> + +<p>St. John’s Lodge has also a well-thought-out garden, +some of it of a distinctly formal type. The coloured +illustration of it is taken from a part of the garden +enclosed with cut privet hedges, with a fountain in the +centre, on which stands a statue of St. John the Baptist, +by Mr. Johnes. Between the four wide grass walks +there are masses of herbaceous plants, backed by rhododendrons,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_348">348</span> +which, as the picture shows, stand out with +brilliant colour in summer against the green background. +This garden opens into a bowling-green enclosed by +cut lime trees, and a cool walk for summer shaded by +pleached lime trees. A seductive broad walk bordered +with fruit-trees is another feature. This attractive garden +has been made within the last eighteen years. The conception +of it was due to Lord Bute, and the designing +and carrying out to Mr. Schultz. The other side of +the house, with a wide terrace and park stretching +down toward the water, has no special horticultural +feature, but the formal garden is full of charm, and +the plants are thriving and trees growing up so fast +there is no trace of its newness. It only shows how +much can be done where knowledge and good taste are +displayed.</p> + +<p>St. James’s Park is still skirted by garden walls—Stafford, +Clarence, and Marlborough Houses, as well as +St. James’s Palace, though their gardens are hardly as +elaborate as those of former years. The garden of that +Palace delighted the Sieur de la Serre, who accompanied +Marie de Medicis when she came to pay a visit to +Henrietta Maria and Charles I. and was lodged in +St. James’s Palace. After describing the house, “there +were, besides,” he writes, “two grand gardens with +parterres of different figures, bordered on every side +by a hedge of box, carefully cultivated by the hands +of a skilful gardener; and in order to render the +walks on both sides which enclosed it appear more +agreeable, all sorts of fine flowers were sowed.... +The other garden, which was adjoining and of the +same extent, had divers walks, some sanded and others +grass, but both bordered on each side by an infinity of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_350">350</span> +fruit-trees, which rendered walking so agreeable that one +could never be tired.”</p> + +<figure id="i_p349" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 29em;"> + <img src="images/i_p349.jpg" width="527" height="814" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p class="large"> + <a href="images/i_p349_large.jpg">(Large)</a></p><br> + <span class="smcap">In the Garden, St. John’s Lodge</span> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>The garden of Bridgewater House was a little slice +taken off Green Park. On the advice of Fordyce, the +Crown in 1795 granted a lease, on certain conditions, to +the Duke of Bridgewater and other proprietors near +their respective houses, on the ground that it would +improve rather than injure the Park. In 1850 the +question arose whether the plans Barry had just made +for the garden of Bridgewater House infringed the terms +of the lease, and Pennethorne, architect to the Office of +Works, had to report on the question. It being finally +settled that the proposed wall and terrace would not +hurt the Park, the alterations were allowed.</p> + +<p>Last, but by no means least, either in size or importance, +the gardens of Buckingham Palace must be glanced +at. The Palace is so modern, when compared with the +older Royal residences, that it is easy to forget the +history of the forty acres enclosed in the King’s private +garden, yet they have much historical interest. In the +time of James I. a portion of the ground was covered +by a mulberry garden, which the King had planted, +in pursuance of his scheme to encourage the culture +of silkworms, in 1609. That year he spent £935 in +levelling the four acres of ground and building a wall +round it for the protection of the trees. A few years +later most of the enclosure became a tea-garden, while +part was occupied by Goring House. There are many +references to these famous tea-gardens, called the +“Mulberry Garden,” in plays and writings of the seventeenth +century. Evelyn notes in his “Diary,” on 10th +April 1654: “My Lady Gerrard treated us at Mulberry +Garden, now the only place of refreshment about the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_351">351</span> +town for persons of the best quality to be exceeding +cheated at, Cromwell and his partisans having shut +up and seized Spring Garden, which till now had been +the usual rendezvous for the ladies and gallants at this +season.”</p> + +<p>Goring House stood just where Buckingham Palace +does now, and was the residence of George Goring, Earl +of Norwich, and of his son, with whom the title became +extinct. It was let in 1666, by the last Earl of Norwich, +to Lord Arlington, and became known sometimes as +Arlington House. It was burnt in 1674, and Evelyn +notes in his “Diary” of 21st September: “I went to see +the great losse that Lord Arlington had sustained by fire +at Goring House, this night consumed to the ground, +with exceeding losse of hangings, plate, rare pictures, and +cabinets; hardly anything was saved of the best and +most princely furniture that any subject had in England. +My lord and lady were both absent at the Bath.” Buckingham +House, which was built in 1703 on the same +site for the Duke of Buckingham, must have been very +charming. Defoe describes it as “one of the beauties +of London, both by reason of its situation and its building.... +Behind it is a fine garden, a noble terrace +(from whence, as well as from the apartments, you have +a most delicious prospect), and a little park with a pretty +canal.” The Duke of Buckingham himself gives a full +description of his garden in a letter to a friend, telling +him how he passed his time and what were his enjoyments, +when he resigned being Privy Seal to Queen +Anne (1709). “To the garden,” he writes, “we go +down from the house by seven steps into a gravel walk +that reaches across the garden, with a covered arbour at +each end. Another of thirty feet broad leads from the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_352">352</span> +front of the house, and lies between two groves of tall +lime trees, planted on a carpet of grass. The outsides +of those groves are bordered with tubs of bays and +orange trees. At the end of the broad walk you go up +to a terrace 400 paces long, with a large semicircle in +the middle, from where are beheld the Queen’s (Anne’s) +two parks and a great part of Surrey: then, going down +a few steps, you walk on the bank of a canal 600 yards +long and 17 broad, with two rows of limes on either +side. On one side of this terrace a wall, covered with +roses and jessamines, is made low to admit the view of a +meadow full of cattle just beneath (no disagreeable +object in the midst of a great city), and at each end is a +descent into parterres with fountains and waterworks. +From the biggest of these parterres we pass into a little +square garden, that has a fountain in the middle and +two green-houses on the sides ... below this a kitchen-garden ... +and under the windows ... of this green-house +is a little wilderness full of blackbirds and +nightingales.” This is truly an entrancing picture of +a town garden.</p> + +<p>The waterworks, those elaborate fountains then in +vogue, were supplied by water pumped up from the +Thames into a tank above the kitchen, which held fifty +tons of water. Buckingham House was then a red-brick +building, consisting of a central square structure, with +stone pillars and balustrade along the top, and two +wings attached to the main building by a colonnade. +It was this style of house when King George III. bought +it, originally for a dower-house for Queen Charlotte, +instead of Somerset House, where the Queens-Dowager +had previously lived. These formal gardens were not +suited to the taste of the time, and George IV. had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_353">353</span> +all the garden altered, as well as the house rebuilt by +Nash. The whole of the parterres, terraces and +fountains and canal were swept away, and most of the +lime-trees cut down. A wide lawn and five acres of +ornamental water, glades, walks and thickets took their +place. When first made the water was severely criticised +by a writer of the landscape school, the chief +fault he found being that too much was visible at once +from the path which encircled it, so that the limits were +not well concealed. This seems to have been altered +to the satisfaction of later critics. Dennis, writing in +1835, gives a plan in which the path has been made +a little distance from the water’s edge, and the outline +broken by clumps of trees and a promontory, which +later on was turned into an island, on which a willow +from Napoleon’s tomb at St. Helena is said to have +been planted, though no old willow now exists. This +writer gives great praise to Aiton, who superintended all +the execution of the plans. The pavilion in the grounds +was added in 1844, and decorated with paintings of +scenes from Milton’s <cite>Comus</cite> by Eastlake, Maclise, Landseer +and other artists, with borders and gilt ornaments +by Gruner.</p> + +<p>During the last four years his Majesty has had a +great deal done to improve the grounds. His appreciation +of what is beautiful in gardening has led him to +effect several changes, which, while keeping the park-like +character of the gardens, have added immensely +to their scenic beauty and horticultural interest. The +dead and dying trees and others of poor and stunted +growth have been removed, giving air and light to +those remaining. Several good specimens of plane, lime, +elm, beech, ash, ailanthus and hawthorn have thus secured<span class="pagenum" id="Page_354">354</span> +more space to develop. A very large assortment of all +the best flowering shrubs which will flourish in London +have taken the place of worn-out evergreens. The best +of the hollies, arbutus and healthy evergreens have been +encouraged by careful attention. The great object in +laying out the garden originally was naturally to obtain +as much privacy as possible, and the earth taken out of +the lake was formed into a great bank, which was +thickly planted to screen the stables and distant houses. +This bank, which was stiff and formal in appearance, +has now been artistically broken by planting and rock-work—not +merely by a few stones, which would seem +small, unnatural, and out of place, but by bold crags, +over which roses climb, and where gorse, savin and +broom, and countless other suitable plants look perfectly +at home. The aspect of the lake is also +greatly enhanced by the substitution of rustic stone +bridges for the iron structures, The water’s edge is +well furnished with iris and other water-loving plants—the +finest Marliac lilies brighten its surface—and +the stiff, round island is now varied by striking rocky +promontories and is prettily adorned with broom and +cherries.</p> + +<p>The colossal vase by Westmacott, executed as a +memento of the Battle of Waterloo, has lately been +placed on one of the lawns in an amphitheatre of trees. +It stands in front of his Majesty’s summer-house, +which is quaint in design, and was brought from the +old Spring Gardens at Whitehall. The views down +the wide glades, with the groups of tall trees, the +bridges, the herbaceous borders, and the wealth of +flowering shrubs, make the garden altogether one of +singular charm considering it is even more truly “in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_355">355</span> +the midst of a great city” than when the Duke of +Buckingham described the same spot nearly 200 years +ago.</p> + +<p>The Buckingham Palace Gardens show how much +judicious planting can do, and how much is lost in +many of the parks as well as gardens by not sufficiently +considering the decorative value of plants. The +old landscape gardeners, in their desire to copy nature +and depart from all formality, forgot the horticultural +part of their work in their plans for the creation of +landscapes. They had not studied the effects which +skilful planting will produce, and ignored flowers as a +factor in their scenery. They had not got the wealth +of genera which the twentieth century possesses, and of +which, in many instances, full use is made. But in a +review of London Parks and Gardens, it is impossible +not to notice effects missed as well as success achieved. +The immense advance gardening has made of late years, +and the knowledge and wide range of plants, makes it +easier to garden now than ever before. The enormous +number of trees and flowers now in cultivation leaves a +good choice to select from, even among those suitable +for the fog-begrimed gardens of London. The carpets +of spring flowering bulbs, the masses of brilliant rhododendrons, +the groups of choice blossoming trees, which +so greatly beautify many of the parks and gardens, are +all the result of modern developments. Experience, too, +has pointed out the mistakes in landscape gardening, +which is for the most part the style followed in London, +and it should be easy to avoid the errors of earlier +generations. In formal designing, also, the recent introductions +and modern taste in flowers should have a +marked influence. In all the parks and gardens, public<span class="pagenum" id="Page_356">356</span> +and private, the chief aim should be to make the best +use of the existing material, to draw upon the vast +resources of horticulture, which have never been so great +as at the present time, and thus to maintain the position +of superiority of London gardens among the cities of +the world.</p> +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_357">357</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="APPENDIX_TO_PRIVATE_GARDENS"><span id="toclink_357"></span><span class="gesperrt">APPENDIX TO PRIVATE GARDENS</span></h2> +</div> + +<h3>CHARLTON</h3> + +<p class="idc idcO"><img src="images/i_idc_o.png" width="181" height="186" alt="O"> +<span class="firstword">Owing</span> to unavoidable circumstances +it was not possible to +include Charlton in the foregoing +chapter on private gardens, but +some account of this place of +historic interest is necessary to +complete this book. Further +from the centres of fashion, on +the eastern limits of London, it has not been the scene +of such brilliant assemblies as Holland House on the +west; yet its early days share that speculative fascination +which gathers round the personality of Henry, Prince of +Wales, who figures for such a short time on the pages of +English history. Only two miles from Greenwich, in the +hundred of Blackheath, lies the manor of Charlton, which +was bestowed by William the Conqueror on his half-brother, +Odo of Bayeux. Later on it passed by gift to +the Priory of Bermondsey, and so remained until the Dissolution +of the Monasteries, when it became crown land +until James I. gave it to Sir Adam Newton, “who built +a goodly brave house” thereon. Born in Scotland, Sir +Adam had spent much of his life in France, and passing +himself off as a priest, had taught Greek at St. Maixant +in Poitou. On his return to Scotland in 1600, he was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_358">358</span> +appointed tutor to Prince Henry, and was in attendance +on him as secretary when the Prince grew up. In 1607 +he commenced to build Charlton for him, Inigo Jones +being the architect, and after the Prince’s death in 1612, +the King granted Sir Adam the manor, in lieu of payment +for the expenses he had incurred in building the +house. The owner of Charlton continued to enjoy royal +favour, became Treasurer of the Household to Prince +Charles, was created a baronet in 1620, and married a +daughter of Sir John Puckering, who had been Keeper of +the Great Seal to Queen Elizabeth. His second son, Sir +Henry Newton, who succeeded him at Charlton, and took +the name of Puckering from estates inherited from his +uncle, was an ardent supporter of Charles I. He sold +the property to Sir William Ducie, Viscount Downe, at +whose death it was again sold. The purchaser, Sir +William Langhorne, was a wealthy East India merchant, +who was, from 1670 to 1677, Governor of Madras. On +his death it passed by entail to his cousin Mrs. Maryon, +and eventually to her great-granddaughter, the wife of +Sir Thomas Spencer Wilson, in whose family Charlton +still remains.</p> + +<p>The gardens show traces of all the many owners, and +in spite of the growth of London and its attendant drawbacks, +they are still charming. The house stands in +about 150 acres of undulating deer park, with some fine +old trees, an avenue of English elms on the east, and one +of horse-chestnuts, forming the approach on the west. +Perhaps the planting of the tulip tree near the present +lodge was due to John Evelyn, the friend of Sir Henry +Puckering. Evelyn’s liking for tulip trees is well known, +and this specimen looks old enough to claim his acquaintance. +The two shattered but grand old mulberry trees<span class="pagenum" id="Page_359">359</span> +probably date from the year 1609, when James I. +encouraged all his subjects to plant them, and tradition +points to one as the first brought to England. There is +an immense horse-chestnut on the lawn, with a wide +spread of branches which are rooted in the ground all +round, and among the evergreen oaks and other attractive +trees in the “Wilderness,” a Judas of great age is +remarkable. The small house standing near the road +which passes the parish church, known as the “Guard +House,” recalls the time when Prince Henry was living +there, and his guard of honour kept watch near the +entrance. The stables are just as they were built by +Inigo Jones, and the little “Dutch” walled garden which +adjoins them on one side is also a pretty relic of those +days, and the “Gooseberry Garden” near it is a survival +of the same period. A walk overshadowed by tall yew +trees stretches across and along the main part of the +grounds, and hidden away near its southern end is a delightful +rose garden. The beautiful lead fountain in the +centre must have been put there by Sir William Langhorne. +His initials appear on the leaden tank, and the +spray rises from a basin held up by a charming little +cupid standing on a pedestal surrounded by swans. The +same group appears without the tank in another part of +the garden, and there are lead vases and figures, and a +cistern dated 1777, which add greatly to the old-world +charm which still lingers. Chemical works and sulphurous +fumes now work deadly havoc among the old +trees, but everything that modern science can recommend +is done to preserve them, and young ones planted to +keep up the traditions, and bridge over the centuries +dividing the present from the days of Prince Henry and +his learned and courtly tutor.</p> +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_361">361</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="LIST_OF_SOME_OF_THE_WORKS_CONSULTED"><span id="toclink_361"></span>LIST OF SOME OF THE WORKS CONSULTED.</h2> +</div> + +<p class="b1 center smaller">(<i>The date does not always refer to the first edition, but to the one consulted.</i>)</p> + +<ul class="list"> +<li>Ambulator. A Pocket Companion in a Tour Round London. 1792.</li> + +<li>Amusements of Old London. Boulton. 1900.</li> + +<li>Argyll, Autobiography of George Douglas, Eighth Duke of. Ed. by the Dowager Duchess of Argyll. 1907.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Baker, T. H. Records of Seasons and Prices.</li> + +<li>Battersea, All About. H. S. Simmonds. 1882.</li> + +<li>Birds in London. W. H. Hudson. 1898.</li> + +<li> „ of London. H. K. Swann. 1893.</li> + +<li>Bloomsbury. Chronicle of Blemundsbury. W. Blott. 1892.</li> + +<li> „ and St. Giles. George Cluich. 1890.</li> + +<li>Bradley, Richard. New Improvements of Planting and Gardening. 1717.</li> + +<li>Burial Grounds, London. Mrs. Basil Holmes. 1896.</li> + +<li>Butler, Samuel. Hudibras. Notes by Grey and Nash. 1847.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Calendar of State Papers. 1557, &c. Ed. J. Redington.</li> + +<li>Camberwell. Parish of All Saints. T. J. Gaster. 1896.</li> + +<li> „ Ye Parish of Camerwell. W. H. Blanch. 1875.</li> + +<li>Catesby, Mark. Natural History of Carolina. 1731–43.</li> + +<li> „ „ Hortus Europæ Americanus. 1767.</li> + +<li>Chelsea. Memoirs of the Botanic Garden. Henry Field. 1820.</li> + +<li> „ „ „ „ Ed. by R. H. Semple. 1878.</li> + +<li> „ An Account of Chelsea Hospital. 1805.</li> + +<li> „ Historical Notes. Isabella Burt. 1871.</li> + +<li> „ Hospital. Thomas Faulkener. 1805.</li> + +<li> „ Thomas Faulkener. 1810.</li> + +<li>Cleveland. Character of a London Diurnal. 1647.</li> + +<li> „ Poems, annotated by J. M. Berden. 1903.</li> + +<li>Cole, John. A Pleasant and Profitable Journey to London. 1828.<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_362">362</span></p></li> + +<li>Commons. A Glance at the Commons and Open Spaces of London. 1867.</li> + +<li>Curtis, William. Botanical Magazine. 1787–1906.</li> + +<li> „ „ A Catalogue of the Plants Growing Wild in the Environs of London. 1774.</li> + +<li> „ „ Flora Londinensis. 1777–1828.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Dennis, John. The Landscape Gardener. 1835.</li> + +<li>Domesday Book. Ed. 1812.</li> + +<li>Draper, W. H. The Morning Walk; or, City Encompass’d. 1751.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Evelyn, John. Diary.</li> + +<li> „ „ Sylva. 1664.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Fairchild, Thomas. The City Gardener. 1722.</li> + +<li>Fiennes, Celia. Through England on a Side-Saddle in the Time of William and Mary. Ed. Hon. Mrs. Griffiths. 1888.</li> + +<li>Foreign Visitors to England. Smith. 1889.</li> + +<li>Fulham, Old and New. C. J. Feret. 1900.</li> + +<li> „ and Hammersmith. Faulkener. 1813.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Gardeners’ Magazine. Conducted by J. C. Loudon. 1826–43.</li> + +<li>Gardening. History of, in England. Alicia Amherst. 1896.</li> + +<li>Gerard. Herbal. 1597.</li> + +<li> „ „ Ed. by T. Johnson. 1633.</li> + +<li> „ Catalogus. 1599.</li> + +<li>Greenwich. W. Howarth. 1886.</li> + +<li> „ and Blackheath. Half Holiday Hand-book Series. 1881.</li> + +<li> „ Park: Its History and Associations. Angus D. Webster. 1902.</li> + +<li> „ The Palace and Hospital. A. G. K. L’Estrange. 1886.</li> + +<li>Grosley. A Tour to London. 1765.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Hackney. Magazine and Parish Reformer. 1833–38.</li> + +<li> „ Collecteanea Geographica, &c. 1842.</li> + +<li> „ History and Antiquities of. William Robinson. 1842.</li> + +<li>Hawthorne, Nathaniel. Passages from English Note-Books. 1870.</li> + +<li>Hazlitt, W. C. Gleanings in Old Garden Literature. 1887.</li> + +<li>Highgate, History of. Frederick Prickett. 1842.</li> + +<li>Hook, Dean of Chichester. Lives of the Archbishops of Canterbury. 1875.</li> + +<li>Hyde Park, from Domesday to Date. J. Ashton. 1900.<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_363">363</span></p></li> + +<li class="ifrst">Index Kewensis. 1893, &c.</li> + +<li>Inns of Court. Inner Temple Records, F. A. Inderwick. 1896.</li> + +<li> „ „ Inner and Middle Temple. H. H. L. Bellot. 1902.</li> + +<li> „ „ Lincoln’s Inn. Douthwaite. 1886.</li> + +<li> „ „ Gray’s Inn. Douthwaite. 1886.</li> + +<li> „ „ and Chancery. W.J. Loftée. Illustrations by Herbert Railton. 1893.</li> + +<li>Islington. History of the Parish of St. Mary. S. Lewis. 1842.</li> + +<li>Issue Rolls. James I., &c.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Lamb, Charles, Life of. E. V. Lucas. 1905.</li> + +<li>Lambeth, History of. Ducarel. 1785.</li> + +<li> „ „ Thomas Allen. 1828.</li> + +<li> „ Palace and its Associations. J. C. Browne. 1883.</li> + +<li>Laud, Archbishop’s, Diary.</li> + +<li>Loimographia: An Account of the Great Plague. W. Boghurst. 1894.</li> + +<li>London, Ancient and Modern, from a Sanitary Point of View. G. V. Poore. 1889.</li> + +<li> „ Birds and Insects. T. D. Pigott. 1892.</li> + +<li> „ Botanic Gardens, Pierre E. F. Perrédès. Pub. by Wellcome Chemical Research Laboratories. No. 62.</li> + +<li> „ Bygone. F. Ross. 1892.</li> + +<li> „ City Suburbs as they are To-Day. 1893.</li> + +<li> „ City: Its History, &c. W. J. Loftie.</li> + +<li> „ Curiosities of. Timbs. 1868.</li> + +<li> „ Environs of. Daniel Lysons. 1790–96.</li> + +<li> „ Familiar, J. C. L’Estrange. 1890.</li> + +<li> „ Fascination of. Series ed. by Sir W. Besant.</li> + +<li> „ Flora. Alexander Irvine. 1838.</li> + +<li> „ Garland. W. E. Henley. 1895.</li> + +<li> „ Greater. E. Walford. 1893–95.</li> + +<li> „ Hand-book of. Peter Cunningham. 1850.</li> + +<li> „ Highways and Byways in. Mrs. E. T. Cook. 1903.</li> + +<li> „ History of. Noorthouck. 1773.</li> + +<li> „ „ William Maitland. 1756.</li> + +<li> „ „ Plantagenet, Tudor Times, &c. Sir W. Besant.</li> + +<li> „ Illustrata. Wilkinson.</li> + +<li> „ Its Neighbourhood, &c. Hughson David. 1805–9.<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_364">364</span></p></li> + +<li> „ Journey to. John Cole. 1825.</li> + +<li> „ Knight, Charles. Revised by E. Walford.</li> + +<li> „ Life Seen Through German Eyes. Brand. 1887.</li> + +<li> „ Memories. C. W. Heckethorne. 1900.</li> + +<li> „ Our Rambles in Old. E. S. M. Smith. 1895.</li> + +<li> „ Pageant of. Richard Davey. 1906.</li> + +<li> „ Past and Present. H. B. Wheatley and P. Cunningham, 1891.</li> + +<li> „ Pleasure Gardens of the Eighteenth Century, W. Wroth. 1896.</li> + +<li> „ Redivivium. James Peter Malcolm. 1807.</li> + +<li> „ Reliques of Old London and Suburbs. H. B, Wheatley. 1896.</li> + +<li> „ Round About. W. J. Loftée, 1893.</li> + +<li> „ Signs and Inscriptions, Wheatley and Philip Norman. 1893.</li> + +<li> „ Some Account of. Thomas Pennant. 1793.</li> + +<li> „ Soul of. F. H. Madox Heuffer. 1905.</li> + +<li> „ Story of. H. B. Wheatley. 1904.</li> + +<li> „ Survey of. (London County Council.) C. R. Ashbee. 1900.</li> + +<li> „ „ Stowe. Several Editions. 1598, 1633, &c.</li> + +<li> „ of To-Day. C. E. Pascoe. 1885.</li> + +<li> „ Town. Marcus Fall. 1880.</li> + +<li> „ Vanished and Vanishing. P. Norman, 1905.</li> + +<li> „ Vestiges of Old. Archer J. Wykeham. 1851.</li> + +<li> „ Walks Through. Hughson David. 1817.</li> + +<li> „ „ In. Augustus Hare. 1901.</li> + +<li>Londres et Les Anglais en 1771. Join Lambert. 1890.</li> + +<li>London, G., and H. Wise. Complete Gardener. 1701.</li> + +<li>Loudon, J. C. Arboretum. 1838.</li> + +<li> „ Encyclopædia of Gardening. 1822.</li> + +<li> „ „ of Plants. 1838.</li> + +<li> „ Gardeners’ Magazine.</li> + +<li> „ Laying Out, &c., of Cemetries, 1843.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Magalotti. Travels of Cosmo III., Grand Duke of Tuscany, through England, 1669. 1821.</li> + +<li>Maitland, William. History and Survey of London. 1756.</li> + +<li>Marylebone, Random Sketches in. F. H. Hallam. 1885.</li> + +<li> „ and St. Pancras, G. Cluich. 1890.</li> + +<li>Mayfair and Belgravia. G. Cluich. 1892.<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_365">365</span></p></li> + +<li>Miller, Philip. Gardeners’ and Florists’ Dictionary. 1724.</li> + +<li> „ „ „ Dictionary. 1759.</li> + +<li>Mirabeau. Letters during his Residence in England. 1832.</li> + +<li>Misson, H. Memoirs and Observations in his Travels over England. Translated by Mr. Ozell. 1719.</li> + +<li>Montagu, Letters of Mrs. E. 1809–13.</li> + +<li> „ Mrs. E. By J. Doran. 1873.</li> + +<li>Montgomerie, James. Chimney Sweepers’ Friend. 1824.</li> + +<li>Municipal History, Bibliography of. Cross. 1897.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Nichol. Progress of Queen Elizabeth.</li> + +<li>Nisbet, J. British Forest Trees. 1895.</li> + +<li>Norden. Notes on his Map of London, 1593. H. B. Wheatley. 1877.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Open Lands, Inclosure and Preservation of. Sir Robert Hunter. Reprint. 1897.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Parliamentary Reports—</li> +<li> Committee on the Public Parks, &c. 1887.</li> +<li> „ „ Best Means of Preserving ... Use of Forests, Commons, &c. 1865.</li> +<li> Other Reports: see Catalogue of Parliamentary Papers, 1801–1908. P. and S. King & Co.</li> +<li> Plan of Improvements proposed opposite Buckingham Palace. 1850.</li> +<li> Return of the Outlay on Battersea Park. 1856.</li> +<li> Select Committee on Open Spaces. 1865.</li> + +<li>Parks, Gardens, &c., of London. Edward Kemp. 1851.</li> + +<li> „ Hyde Park, from Domesday to Date. J. Ashton. 1896.</li> + +<li> „ Municipal, and Gardens. Lieut.-Col. J. G. Sexby. 1905.</li> + +<li> „ and Pleasure Grounds. C. H. J. Smith, 1852.</li> + +<li> „ „ Open Spaces. London County Council Sixpenny Guide. 1906.</li> + +<li> „ „ „ and Thoroughfares. A. M’Kenzie. 1869.</li> + +<li> „ Royal, and Gardens. N. Cole. 1877.</li> + +<li> „ Story of the London. Jacob Larwood. 1872.</li> + +<li>Parkinson, John. Paradise in Sole. 1629.</li> + +<li>Pepys, Samuel. Diary.</li> + +<li>Piccadilly and Pall Mall, Round About. H. B. Wheatley. 1817.<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_366">366</span></p></li> + +<li>Philips, Henry. Sylva Florifera. 1823. Flora Historica, &c.</li> + +<li>Phillips, Sir Richard. Morning Walk to Kew. 1817.</li> + +<li>Pulteney, Richard. History of the Progress of Botany in England. 1790.</li> + +<li>Pyne, Wm. H. History of the Royal Residences. 1819.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Regent’s Park. Some Account of the Improvements. 1814.</li> + +<li> „ „ „ „ „ . John White. 1815.</li> + +<li> „ „ Literary Pocket Book. 1823.</li> + +<li> „ „ Picturesque Guide to. 1829.</li> + +<li>Repton. Landscape Gardening. Ed. J. C. Loudon. 1840.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">St. Botolph, Aldgate. A. G. B. Atkinson. 1898.</li> + +<li>St. James’s Square. Dasent. 1895.</li> + +<li>Selby, P. J. British Forest Trees. 1841.</li> + +<li>Shipton, Mother. Life and Death of. 1687.</li> + +<li> „ „ Prophecies. Ed. E. Pearson. 1871.</li> + +<li> „ „ „ C. Hindley. 1877.</li> + +<li>Soho, Two Centuries of. J. H. Cardwell. 1898.</li> + +<li> „ and its Associations. E. F. Rimbault. 1895.</li> + +<li>Sorbière, Samuel de. A Journey to London. [William King.] 1698.</li> + +<li> „ „ A Voyage to England. 1709.</li> + +<li> „ „ Journey to London. 1832.</li> + +<li> „ „ Reponse aux Faussetés ... dans la relation du Voyage en Angleterre. 1675.</li> + +<li>Stepney. Two Centuries of History. W. H. Frere. 1892.</li> + +<li>Stowe. Survey of London. 1598.</li> + +<li> „ Munday’s Edition. 1633.</li> + +<li> „ Strype’s Edition. 1720.</li> + +<li>Suburban Reliques of Old Londons. H. B, Wheatley. Drawn by T. R. Way. 1715.</li> + +<li>Switzer, Stephen. Nobleman, Gentleman, and Gardener’s Recreation. 1715.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Tradescant, John. Museum Tradescantianum. 1656.</li> + +<li>Trinity Hospital, Mile End Road, C. R. Ashbee, 1896.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Westminster, Antiquities of. John T. Smith. 1807.</li> + +<li> „ Abbey. W. J. Loftie. 1890.<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_367">367</span></p></li> + +<li> „ „ Dean Stanley.</li> + +<li> „ „ MSS. Records.</li> + +<li> „ „ Richard Widmore. 1751.</li> + +<li> „ Memorials of the City, St. Peter’s College, &c. Rev. MacKenzie E. C. Walcott. 1849.</li> + +<li>Wheatley. Observations on Modern Gardening. 1793.</li> + +<li>Whitten, W. London in Song. 1898.</li> + +<li>Wren, Christopher. Parentalia. 1750.</li> +</ul> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_368">368</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="HYDE_PARK_AND_KENSINGTON_GARDENS"><span id="toclink_368"></span>HYDE PARK AND KENSINGTON GARDENS</h2> +</div> + +<h3>LIST OF TREES AND SHRUBS</h3> + +<p class="p2 b2 smaller"><i>N.B.</i>—Those marked thus * are not in existence at the present time. +A small number proved unsuitable for London, and others have been +removed from the plantations for various reasons.</p> + +<ul class="list"> +<li>Acer campestre.</li> +<li> „ circinatum.</li> +<li> „ creticum.</li> +<li> „ dasycarpum.</li> +<li> „ macrophyllum.</li> +<li> „ Negundo.</li> +<li> „ „ foliis variegatis.</li> +<li> „ palmatum.</li> +<li> „ platanoides.</li> +<li> „ „ Reitenbachii.</li> +<li> „ „ Schwedleri.</li> +<li> „ Pseudo-platanus.</li> +<li> „ „ „ foliis variegatis.</li> +<li> „ „ „ purpureum.</li> +<li> „ rubrum.</li> +<li> „ saccharum.</li> +<li> „ saccharum nigrum.</li> +<li> „ tartaricum.</li> +<li>Æsculus Hippocastanum.</li> +<li> „ „ laciniata.</li> +<li> „ „ rubicunda.</li> +<li>Ailantus glandulosa.</li> +<li>Alnus barbata.</li> +<li> „ glutinosa.</li> +<li> „ „ incisa.</li> +<li> „ „ laciniata.</li> +<li> „ „ quercifolia.</li> +<li>Amorpha fruticosa.</li> +<li>Amygdalus (Prunus) communis.</li> +<li> „ „ „ amara.</li> +<li>Amygdalus communis macrocarpa.</li> +<li> „ nana.</li> +<li>Amelanchier canadensis.</li> +<li> „ vulgaris.</li> +<li>Aralia chinensis.</li> +<li> „ spinosa.</li> +<li>Arbutus Andrachne.</li> +<li> „ Unedo.</li> +<li> „ „ rubra.</li> +<li>Aristolochia Sipho.</li> +<li>Armeniaca (Prunus) sibirica.</li> +<li>Artemisia arborescens.</li> +<li>Asimina triloba.</li> +<li>Aucuba japonica.</li> +<li> „ „ maculata.</li> +<li> „ „ viridis.</li> +<li>Azalea (Rhododendron) sinense.</li> +<li> „ pontica.</li> +<li> „ nudiflorum.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Berberis Aquifolium.</li> +<li> „ Darwinii.</li> +<li> „ Fortunei.</li> +<li> „ japonica.*</li> +<li> „ repens.</li> +<li> „ stenophylla.</li> +<li> „ vulgaris.</li> +<li> „ „ foliis purpureis.</li> +<li>Betula alba.</li> +<li> „ „ pendula.<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_369">369</span></p></li> +<li>Betula fruticosa.</li> +<li> „ lenta.</li> +<li> „ nana.</li> +<li> „ nigra.</li> +<li> „ populifolia.</li> +<li> „ urticifolia.</li> +<li>Buxus balearica.</li> +<li> „ caucasica.</li> +<li> „ sempervirens arborescens.</li> +<li> „ „ aureo-marginita.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Caragana arborescens.</li> +<li> „ Chamluga.</li> +<li> „ frutescens.</li> +<li> „ spinosa.</li> +<li>Carpinus betulus.</li> +<li>Carya amara.</li> +<li>Caryopteris Mastacanthus.</li> +<li>Castanea sativa.</li> +<li>Catalpa bignonioides.</li> +<li>Cedrus Deodora.*</li> +<li> „ Libani.</li> +<li>Cerasus. <i>See</i> <a href="#Prunus">Prunus</a>.</li> +<li>Cercis Siliquastrum.</li> +<li>Cistus florentinus.</li> +<li> „ ladaniferus.</li> +<li> „ monspeliensis.</li> +<li>Clematis Flammula.</li> +<li> „ Jackmani.</li> +<li> „ montana.</li> +<li> „ Vitalba.</li> +<li>Celtis Tournefortii.</li> +<li>Clerodendron trichotomum.</li> +<li>Colutea arborescens.</li> +<li>Cornus alba.</li> +<li> „ „ Spæthii.</li> +<li> „ Mas.</li> +<li> „ „ aurea elegantissima.</li> +<li> „ „ variegata.</li> +<li> „ sanguinea.</li> +<li> „ stolonifera.</li> +<li>Coronilla Emerus.</li> +<li>Coryllus Avellana.</li> +<li> „ maxima atropurpurea.</li> +<li>Cotoneaster acuminata.</li> +<li> „ bacillaris.</li> +<li>Cotoneaster frigida.</li> +<li> „ horizontalis.</li> +<li> „ microphylla.</li> +<li> „ Nummularia.</li> +<li> „ Simmonsii.</li> +<li>Cratægus altaica.</li> +<li> „ Azarolus.</li> +<li> „ coccinea.</li> +<li> „ cordata.</li> +<li> „ „ accrifolia.</li> +<li> „ „ maxima.</li> +<li> „ Crus-galli.</li> +<li> „ „ ovalifolium.</li> +<li> „ „ pyracanthafolia.</li> +<li> „ „ splendens.</li> +<li> „ dippeliana.</li> +<li> „ heterophylla.</li> +<li> „ macrantha.</li> +<li> „ nigra.</li> +<li> „ orientalis.</li> +<li> „ Oxyacantha.</li> +<li> „ „ aurea.</li> +<li> „ „ eriocarpa.</li> +<li> „ „ flexuosa.</li> +<li> „ „ flore pleno albo.</li> +<li> „ „ flore pleno coccineo.</li> +<li> „ „ flore pleno puniceo.</li> +<li> „ „ flore pleno roseo.</li> +<li> „ „ flore pleno rubro.</li> +<li> „ „ flore roseo.</li> +<li> „ „ laciniata.</li> +<li> „ „ pendula.</li> +<li> „ „ præcox.</li> +<li> „ „ quercifolia.</li> +<li> „ „ stricta.</li> +<li> „ punctata.</li> +<li> „ „ brevispina.</li> +<li> „ „ xanthocarpa.</li> +<li> „ pyracantha.</li> +<li> „ „ Lalandi.</li> +<li> „ siniaca.</li> +<li> „ spathulata.</li> +<li> „ tanacetifolia.</li> +<li>Cupressus Lawsoniana.*</li> +<li> „ Nootkatensis.*</li> +<li> „ sempervirens.*<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_370">370</span></p></li> +<li>Cydonia japonica.</li> +<li> „ Maulei.</li> +<li> „ vulgaris lusitanica.</li> +<li> „ „ maliformis.</li> +<li>Cytisus albus.</li> +<li> „ alpinus.</li> +<li> „ nigricans.</li> +<li> „ præcox.</li> +<li> „ racemosus.</li> +<li> „ scoparius.</li> +<li> „ sessilifolius.</li> +<li> „ tinctoria.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Daphne Mezereum.</li> +<li> „ pontica.</li> +<li>Diospyros Lotus.</li> +<li> „ virginiana.</li> +<li>Diplopappus chrysophylla.</li> +<li>Deutzia crenata.</li> +<li> „ „ flore pleno.</li> +<li> „ „ gracilis.</li> +<li> „ scabra.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Elæagnus angustifolia.</li> +<li> „ argentea.</li> +<li>Euonymus europæus.</li> +<li> „ „ fructo albo.</li> +<li> „ japonicus.</li> +<li> „ „ argenteus.</li> +<li> „ „ aureo-variegatus.</li> +<li> „ „ radicans.</li> +<li> „ „ „ foliis pictis.</li> +<li> „ latifolius.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Fagus sylvatica.</li> +<li> „ „ cuprea.</li> +<li> „ „ pendula.</li> +<li> „ „ purpurea.</li> +<li> „ „ „ pendula.</li> +<li>Fatsia japonica.</li> +<li>Ficus Carica.</li> +<li>Fontanesia phillyræoides.</li> +<li>Forsythia intermedia.</li> +<li> „ suspensa.</li> +<li> „ viridissima.</li> +<li>Fraxinus americana cinerea.</li> +<li> „ „ elliptica.</li> +<li> „ „ juglandifolia.</li> +<li> „ excelsior.</li> +<li> „ „ angustifolia.</li> +<li> „ „ aurea.</li> +<li> „ „ heterophylla.</li> +<li> „ „ pendula.</li> +<li> „ Ornus.</li> +<li> „ „ angustifolia.</li> +<li> „ parvifolia.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Genista hispanica.</li> +<li>Gleditschia triacanthos.</li> +<li> „ sinensis.</li> +<li> „ „ nana.</li> +<li>Gymnocladus canadensis.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Halesia diptera.</li> +<li> „ tetraptera.</li> +<li>Halimodendron argenteum.</li> +<li>Hamamelis virginica.</li> +<li>Hedera Helix.</li> +<li> „ „ arborescens.</li> +<li> „ „ caenwoodiana.</li> +<li> „ „ canariensis.</li> +<li> „ „ „ arborescens.</li> +<li> „ „ chrysocarpa.</li> +<li> „ „ colchica.</li> +<li> „ „ dentata.</li> +<li> „ „ digitata.</li> +<li> „ „ lucida.</li> +<li> „ „ maderensis variegata.</li> +<li> „ „ minima.</li> +<li> „ „ taurica.</li> +<li> „ „ variegata.</li> +<li>Hibiscus syriacus—and numerous garden varieties.</li> +<li>Hippophæ rhamnoides.</li> +<li> „ salicifolia.</li> +<li>Hydrangea hortensia.</li> +<li> „ paniculata grandiflora.</li> +<li>Hypericum calycinum.</li> +<li> „ elatum.</li> +<li> „ hircinum.</li> +<li> „ patulum.<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_371">371</span></p></li> + +<li class="ifrst">Ilex Aquifolium.</li> +<li> „ „ albo-picta.</li> +<li> „ „ altaclerense.</li> +<li> „ „ angustifolia.</li> +<li> „ „ „ variegata.</li> +<li> „ „ argentea variegata.</li> +<li> „ „ argentea marginata.</li> +<li> „ „ aureo-picta.</li> +<li> „ „ aureo-regina.</li> +<li> „ „ balearica.</li> +<li> „ „ camelliæfolia.</li> +<li> „ „ ferox.</li> +<li> „ „ „ argentea.</li> +<li> „ „ „ aurea.</li> +<li> „ „ fructo luteo.</li> +<li> „ „ heterophylla.</li> +<li> „ „ Hodginsii.</li> +<li> „ „ latispina.</li> +<li> „ „ laurifolia.</li> +<li> „ „ myrtifolia.</li> +<li> „ „ recurva.</li> +<li> „ „ scotica.</li> +<li> „ „ Shepherdii.</li> +<li> „ „ Watereriana.</li> +<li> „ dipyrena</li> +<li> „ latifolia.</li> +<li> „ opaca.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Jasminum fruticans.</li> +<li> „ humile.</li> +<li> „ nudiflorum.</li> +<li> „ officinale.</li> +<li>Juniperus chinensis.*</li> +<li> „ communis.*</li> +<li> „ nana.*</li> +<li> „ Sabina tamariscifolia.</li> +<li> „ „ procumbens.</li> +<li> „ virginiana.*</li> +<li>Juglans cinerea.</li> +<li> „ nigra.</li> +<li> „ regia.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Kerria japonica.</li> +<li>Koelreuteria paniculata.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Laburnum alpinum.</li> +<li> „ vulgare.</li> +<li> „ „ quercifolium.</li> +<li> „ „ Watereri.</li> +<li>Laurus nobilis.</li> +<li>Leycesteria formosa.</li> +<li>Ligustrum Ibota.</li> +<li> „ japonicum.</li> +<li> „ lucidum.</li> +<li> „ ovalifolium.</li> +<li> „ „ foliis aureis.</li> +<li> „ Quihoui.</li> +<li> „ vulgare.</li> +<li>Liquidamber styraciflua.</li> +<li>Liriodendron tulipifera.</li> +<li>Lonicera Caprifolium.</li> +<li> „ flexuosa.</li> +<li> „ involucrata.</li> +<li> „ Periclymenum.</li> +<li>Lycium chinense.</li> +<li> „ hamilifolium.*</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Magnolia acuminata.</li> +<li> „ conspicua.</li> +<li> „ „ Soulangeana.</li> +<li> „ grandiflora.</li> +<li> „ stellata.</li> +<li>Morus alba.</li> +<li> „ „ pendula.</li> +<li> „ nigra.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Osmanthus Aquifolium ilicifolius.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Pavia (Æsculus) flava.</li> +<li> „ „ purpurascens.</li> +<li> „ glabra arguta.</li> +<li> „ humulis.</li> +<li> „ neglecta.</li> +<li> „ parvifolia.</li> +<li> „ rubra.</li> +<li>Philadelphus coronarius.</li> +<li> „ „ tomentosus.</li> +<li> „ floribundus.</li> +<li> „ „ verrucosus.</li> +<li> „ Gordonianus.</li> +<li> „ grandiflorus floribundus.</li> +<li> „ hirsutus.</li> +<li> „ inodorus.<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_372">372</span></p></li> +<li> „ Lemoinei.</li> +<li>Phillyrea angustifolium.</li> +<li> „ decora.</li> +<li> „ latifolia.</li> +<li>Photinia serrulata.</li> +<li>Pinus cembra.*</li> +<li> „ insignis.*</li> +<li> „ Laricio.*</li> +<li> „ sylvestris.</li> +<li>Planera aquatica.*</li> +<li> „ Richardi.*</li> +<li>Platanus accrifolia.</li> +<li>Populus alba.</li> +<li> „ „ pyramidalis (bolleana).</li> +<li> „ balsamifera.</li> +<li> „ canescens.</li> +<li> „ deltoidea.</li> +<li> „ „ aurea.</li> +<li> „ macrophylla.</li> +<li> „ nigra.</li> +<li> „ „ betulæfolia.</li> +<li> „ „ pyramidalis.</li> +<li> „ tremula.</li> +<li> „ „ pendula.</li> +<li><a id="Prunus"></a>Prunus including Cerasus and persica.</li> +<li> „ persica camelliæflora.</li> +<li> „ „ flore roseo pleno.</li> +<li> „ „ „ alba pleno.</li> +<li> „ „ dianthiflora pleno.</li> +<li> „ Avium.</li> +<li> „ „ flore pleno.</li> +<li> „ „ pendula.</li> +<li> „ cerasifera.</li> +<li> „ „ atropurpureum.</li> +<li> „ communis.</li> +<li> „ (Cerasus) acida semperflorens.</li> +<li> „ japonicas flore roseo pleno.</li> +<li> „ pseudo-cerasus.</li> +<li> „ (Padus) Mahaleb.</li> +<li> „ „ pendula.</li> +<li> „ Padus.</li> +<li> „ rotundifolia.</li> +<li> „ serotina.</li> +<li> „ (Laurocerasus) caucasica.</li> +<li> „ „ colchica.</li> +<li> „ „ Laurocerasus.</li> +<li> „ serrulata.</li> +<li> „ spinosa.</li> +<li> „ triloba.</li> +<li> „ Watereri.</li> +<li>Ptelea trifoliata.</li> +<li>Pterocarya caucasica.</li> +<li>Pyrus Aria.</li> +<li> „ „ salicifolia.</li> +<li> „ „ undulata.</li> +<li> „ amygdaliformis.</li> +<li> „ arbutifolia.</li> +<li> „ Aucuparia.</li> +<li> „ auricularis.</li> +<li> „ baccata.</li> +<li> „ communis.</li> +<li> „ floribunda.</li> +<li> „ hybrida.</li> +<li> „ intermedia.</li> +<li> „ lanata.</li> +<li> „ malus astracanica.</li> +<li> „ nivalis.</li> +<li> „ pinnatifida.</li> +<li> „ rivularis.</li> +<li> „ spectabilis.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Quercus Ægilops.</li> +<li> „ cerris.</li> +<li> „ „ cana-major.</li> +<li> „ „ cana-minor.</li> +<li> „ „ fulhamensis.</li> +<li> „ coccinea.</li> +<li> „ fastigiata.</li> +<li> „ filicifolia.</li> +<li> „ Ilex.</li> +<li> „ „ Gramuntia.</li> +<li> „ lucombeana.</li> +<li> „ palustris.</li> +<li> „ pedunculata.</li> +<li> „ „ fastigiata.</li> +<li> „ rubra.</li> +<li> „ „ longifolia.</li> +<li> „ Suber.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Rhamnus Alaternus maculata.</li> +<li> „ alpina.<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_373">373</span></p></li> +<li> „ cathartica.</li> +<li> „ Frangula.</li> +<li> „ infectoria.</li> +<li>Rhododendron Cunninghami.</li> +<li> „ dauricum.</li> +<li> „ hybrids in variety.</li> +<li> „ ponticum.</li> +<li> „ præcox.</li> +<li>Rhus canadensis.</li> +<li> „ copallina.</li> +<li> „ cotinus.</li> +<li> „ glabra laciniata.</li> +<li> „ typhina.</li> +<li> „ „ frutescens.</li> +<li>Ribes alpinum.</li> +<li> „ „ pumilum.</li> +<li> „ aureum.</li> +<li> „ „ præcox.</li> +<li> „ Diacantha.</li> +<li> „ nigrum variegatum.</li> +<li> „ Sanguineum.</li> +<li> „ „ albidum.</li> +<li>Robinia hispida.</li> +<li> „ inermis.</li> +<li> „ Pseudacacia.</li> +<li> „ „ angustifolium.</li> +<li> „ „ bessoniana.</li> +<li> „ „ Decaisneana.</li> +<li> „ „ dubea.</li> +<li> „ „ elegans.</li> +<li> „ „ fastigiata.</li> +<li> „ „ heterophylla.</li> +<li> „ „ inermis.</li> +<li> „ „ monophylla.</li> +<li> „ „ semperflorens.</li> +<li> „ „ tortuosa.</li> +<li> „ viscosa.</li> +<li>Rosa arvensis.</li> +<li> „ Banksiæ.</li> +<li> „ canina.</li> +<li> „ damascena.</li> +<li> „ gallica centifolia.</li> +<li> „ „ muscosa.</li> +<li> „ indica.</li> +<li> „ multiflora.</li> +<li> „ noisettiana.</li> +<li> „ rubiginosa.</li> +<li> „ rugosa.</li> +<li> „ „ flore pleno.</li> +<li> „ wichuraiana.</li> +<li> „ hybrids in variety.</li> +<li>Rosmarinus officinalis.</li> +<li>Rubus fruticosus.</li> +<li> „ „ albo-pleno.</li> +<li> „ „ rubra-pleno.</li> +<li> „ laciniatus.</li> +<li> „ nutkanus.</li> +<li>Ruscus aculeatus.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Salisburia (Ginkgo) adiantifolia.</li> +<li>Salix alba.</li> +<li> „ babylonica.</li> +<li> „ Caprea.</li> +<li> „ daphnoides.</li> +<li> „ rosmarinifolia.</li> +<li> „ viminalis.</li> +<li>Sambucus nigra.</li> +<li> „ „ laciniata.</li> +<li> „ „ foliis aureis.</li> +<li> „ racemosa.</li> +<li> „ „ plumosa.</li> +<li> „ „ „ aurea.</li> +<li>Skimmia Fortunei.</li> +<li> „ japonica.</li> +<li>Spartium junceum.</li> +<li>Smilax aspera.</li> +<li> „ glauca.</li> +<li> „ rotundifolia.</li> +<li>Sophora japonica.</li> +<li>Spiræa bullata.</li> +<li> „ canescens.</li> +<li> „ cantoniensis.*</li> +<li> „ chamædrifolia.*</li> +<li> „ discolor.*</li> +<li> „ japonica.*</li> +<li> „ „ Bumalda.</li> +<li> „ prunifolia flore pleno.</li> +<li> „ salicifolia.</li> +<li> „ sorbifolia.</li> +<li> „ Thunbergii.</li> +<li>Symphoricarpus orbiculatus.</li> +<li> „ racemosus.<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_374">374</span></p></li> +<li>Syringa Emodi.</li> +<li> „ Josikæa.</li> +<li> „ persica.</li> +<li> „ „ alba.</li> +<li> „ vulgaris.</li> +<li> And many garden varieties.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Taxodium distichum.</li> +<li>Taxus baccata.</li> +<li> „ „ adpressa.</li> +<li> „ „ „ aurea.</li> +<li> „ „ Dovastoni.</li> +<li> „ „ fastigiata.</li> +<li> „ „ fructo luteo.</li> +<li> „ canadensis.</li> +<li> „ cuspidata.</li> +<li>Thuja dolobrata.*</li> +<li> „ japonica.*</li> +<li> „ occidentalis.</li> +<li> „ orientalis.</li> +<li> „ „ aureo-variegata.</li> +<li> „ plicata.*</li> +<li>Tilia americana.</li> +<li> „ argentea.</li> +<li> „ cordata.</li> +<li> „ dasystyla.</li> +<li> „ petiolaris.</li> +<li> „ platyphyllus asplenifolia.</li> +<li> „ vulgaris.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Ulex europæus.</li> +<li> „ „ flore pleno.</li> +<li> „ nanus.</li> +<li>Ulmus americanus.</li> +<li> „ „ pendula.</li> +<li> „ campestris.</li> +<li> „ „ Louis van Houtte.</li> +<li> „ „ sarniensis.</li> +<li> „ „ Wheatleyi.</li> +<li> „ glabra.</li> +<li> „ „ cornubiensis.</li> +<li> „ „ stricta.</li> +<li> „ montana.</li> +<li> „ „ atropurpureum.</li> +<li> „ „ fastigiata aurea.</li> +<li> „ „ pendula.</li> +<li> „ „ vegeta.</li> +<li> „ pedunculata.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Veronica cupressoides.</li> +<li> „ Traversii.</li> +<li>Viburnum dentatum.</li> +<li> „ Lantana.</li> +<li> „ Lentago.</li> +<li> „ Opulus.</li> +<li> „ „ sterile.</li> +<li> „ Tinus.</li> +<li> „ „ hirtum.</li> +<li> „ plicatum.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Weigela (Diervilla) florida.</li> +<li> „ hybrida.</li> +<li> „ Looymansi aurea.</li> +<li>Wistaria chinensis.</li> +<li> „ multijuga.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Xanthorrhiza apiifolia.*</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Yucca angustifolia.</li> +<li> „ filamentosa.</li> +<li> „ „ flaccida.</li> +<li> „ gloriosa.</li> +<li> „ recurvifolia.</li> +</ul> +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_375">375</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="EXAMPLES"><span id="toclink_375"></span>EXAMPLES OF PLANTING FLOWER-BEDS +IN HYDE PARK IN <span class="locked">1905–6</span></h2> +</div> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Bed 1.</span></h3> + +<p>1. Autumn planting for spring flowers:—Hyacinths, margin of Saxifrage. +Day Lily, thinly planted, for bright green foliage growing up +with and above the Hyacinths.</p> + +<p>2. Spring planting for early summer flowers:—Pansies for margin 18 +inches wide, the centre of bed planted with Ragged Robin.</p> + +<p>3. Summer planting for later summer and autumn display:—Large +plants of Calceolaria Burbidgeii 8 feet high, Cassia corymbosa 6 feet +high, Heliotrope 6 feet to 7 feet high, finishing off with Nicotiana affinis +and sylvestris, Lantana Drap d’Or with Lilium longifiorum interspersed.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Bed 2.</span></h3> + +<p>1. Autumn planting for spring flowers:—-Tulips, margin of Saxifrage. +Iris germanica for foliage planted thinly with bulbs.</p> + +<p>2. Delphiniums, deep blue, 18 inch margin of yellow Pansies.</p> + +<p>3. Broad margin of Dell’s dark Beet, remainder of bed well planted +with Cannas, Alphonse Bouvier, and Flambeau, brilliant crimson flowers.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Bed 3.</span></h3> + +<p>1. Autumn planting for spring flowers:—-Narcissus Emperor with a +6 to 1 mixture of Hyacinth King of the Blues, margin of Saxifrage.</p> + +<p>2. Broad margin of Pansies, remainder of bed filled with Erigeron +speciosum.</p> + +<p>3. Large plants in pots of Ivy-leaved Pelargonium Madame Crousse, +6 feet high, placed 5 feet apart. Margin and intermediate spaces planted +with dwarf plants of a deeper coloured Ivy-leaved Pelargonium.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Bed 4.</span></h3> + +<p>1. Autumn planting for spring flowers:—-Hyacinths Czar Peter, +light-blue, Gigantea blush, margin of Saxifrage.</p> + +<p>2. Dictamnus in two colours, about 2 feet apart, ground of bed +Anemone coronaria margined with Saxifraga Camposii.</p> + +<p>3. Gymnothrix latifolia, Kochia scoparia tricophylla interspersed with +Acalypha musaica.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_376">376</span></p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Bed 5.</span></h3> + +<p>1. Dark Wallflowers with margin of Gardiner’s Garter (Phalaris).</p> + +<p>2. Pelargonium Achievement 4 feet high and 4 feet apart, centre of +bed and margin planted with dwarf plants of same variety.</p> + +<p>3. Celosia pyramidalis crimson and gold, with some crimson Cockscombs +intermixed, the remaining portion of bed thickly planted to the +margin with Leucophytum Brownii.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Bed 6.</span></h3> + +<p>1. Autumn planting for spring flowers:—Hyacinth Grande Maitre, +blue.</p> + +<p>2. An interesting combination of the following flowers in rotation, +fresh ones being introduced as others faded:—Linum perenne, Ixias, +Sparaxis, and Calochortus, in variety, Oxalis rosea, Camassia esculenta, +Lychnis Viscaria, Crassula coccinea, Balsams with double pink blooms. +The setting for these flowers was a variegated grass. A good effect +was the result for many weeks.</p> + +<p>3. For the remainder of the season this bed was filled with a succession +of Lilium speciosum roseum on a green ground, with a margin of +Agathea cœlestis.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="section"> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="ERRATA"><span class="gesperrt">ERRATA</span></h2> + +<div class="center-container"> +<div class="container"> +Page 16, line 24, <i>for</i> ‘Sir John Sloane’ <i>read</i> ‘Sir Hans Sloane.’<br> + „ 42, „ 4, <i>for</i> ‘places’ <i>read</i> ‘plans.’<br> + „ 77, „ 15, <i>for</i> ‘Quintinge’ <i>read</i> ‘Quintinye.’<br> + „ 241, „ 7, <i>for</i> ‘battle of Alma’ <i>read</i> ‘battle of the Alma.’ +</div></div> +<div> </div> +</div> + +<div class="chapter footnotes"> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="FOOTNOTES"><span class="gesperrt">FOOTNOTES</span></h2> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p class="fn1"><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">1</a> Close Roll, Henry VII.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p class="fn1"><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">2</a> MSS. Manor Roll in the Record Office.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p class="fn1"><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">3</a> MSS. Manor Roll, Archives of Ely Cathedral.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p class="fn1"><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">4</a> See Alexander Necham, <cite lang="la">De Naturis Rerum</cite>, twelfth century.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p class="fn1"><a id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5" class="label">5</a> Stowe, “Survey of London.”</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p class="fn1"><a id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6" class="label">6</a> Stowe’s “Survey of London.”</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p class="fn1"><a id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7" class="label">7</a> See <a href="#Page_171">p. 171</a>.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p class="fn1"><a id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8" class="label">8</a> As Vauxhall is not included in Lieut.-Col. Sexby’s exhaustive book, +the following details are not very accessible. It was bought from Mr. +Cobeldick for £43,500.</p> + +<table id="t162"> +<tr> + <td class="tdl">Made up by Lambeth Vestry</td> + <td class="tdr">£11,746 17 6</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="d162">„</span> Charity Commissioners</td> + <td class="tdr">12,500 0 0</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="d162">„</span> London County Council</td> + <td class="tdr">11,746 17 6</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdl"><span class="d162">„</span> Donations and other sources</td> + <td class="tdr">7,506 5 0</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr bt">£43,500 0 0</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>The fencing and laying out was done by the Kyrle Society. The Park +was opened by the present King and Queen, July 7, 1890.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p class="fn1"><a id="Footnote_9" href="#FNanchor_9" class="label">9</a> See “Chitty’s Statutes,” by J. M. Lely, under “Metropolis.”</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p class="fn2"><a id="Footnote_10" href="#FNanchor_10" class="label">10</a> See <a href="#Page_12">page 12</a>.</p> + +</div> +</div> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_377">377</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="INDEX"><span id="toclink_377"></span><span class="gesperrt">INDEX</span></h2> + +<div class="index"> +<ul class="index"> +<li class="pix">A</li> + +<li class="indx">Acreage of Parks, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Aiglio, <a href="#Page_241">241</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Albert Memorial, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Alma-Tadema, Sir Laurence, <a href="#Page_334">334</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Alpine plants, <a href="#Page_330">330</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Anne Boleyn, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of Cleves, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Queen, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Annual flowers, <a href="#Page_331">331</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Apothecaries’ Garden, Chelsea, <a href="#Page_317">317</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Archbishop’s Park, <a href="#Page_307">307</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Archery, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Argyll Lodge, <a href="#Page_344">344</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Artillery Garden, <a href="#Page_292">292</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Ground, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Austin Friars, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Avery Hill, <a href="#Page_183">183</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Avondale Park, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li> + +<li class="pix">B</li> + +<li class="indx">Bacon and Gray’s Inn, <a href="#Page_283">283</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Balloon ascents, <a href="#Page_292">292</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bank of England, <a href="#Page_258">258</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Banqueting-houses, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Barnard’s Inn, <a href="#Page_263">263</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Battersea enamel, <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Battersea Park, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155–161</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— bicycling in, <a href="#Page_161">161</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— chrysanthemums in, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— duel in, <a href="#Page_157">157</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— early history of, <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Red House in, <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— sub-tropical garden in, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bayard’s Castle, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bergne, Lady, garden in Kensington, <a href="#Page_335">335</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bethlehem Hospital (Bedlam), <a href="#Page_237">237</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bethnal Green Gardens, <a href="#Page_134">134</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Birdcage Walk, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Birds, wild, in Greenwich Park, <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in Victoria Park, <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— on Hampstead Heath, <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Blackfriars, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Blackheath, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bostall Wood, <a href="#Page_199">199</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Botanical Garden, Regent’s Park, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Society, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Brewers’ Almshouses, <a href="#Page_294">294</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bridgeman, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bridgewater House, <a href="#Page_350">350</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Broad Walk, Regent’s Park, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Brockwell Park, <a href="#Page_170">170–174</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— old English garden in, <a href="#Page_170">170–172</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— purchase of, <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— rooks in, <a href="#Page_174">174</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Brook Green, <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Broome House, <a href="#Page_345">345</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Brown, Sir Richard, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>, <a href="#Page_325">325</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Buckingham House, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_351">351</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Palace, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_350">350–355</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bunhill Fields, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_248">248–251</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Bunyan, John, tomb, <a href="#Page_249">249</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Burial-grounds, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_242">242–260</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Friends’, <a href="#Page_249">249</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in the City, <a href="#Page_254">254–259</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Marylebone, <a href="#Page_245">245</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— St. John’s Wood, <a href="#Page_245">245</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— St. Pancras, <a href="#Page_243">243</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Stepney, <a href="#Page_245">245</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Burton’s Court, <a href="#Page_312">312</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_378">378</span>Burton, Decimus, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li> + +<li class="pix">C</li> + +<li class="indx">Cadogan Place, <a href="#Page_239">239</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cake-house in Hyde Park, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Camberwell Park, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Green, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cam House, <a href="#Page_343">343</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Campden Hill, gardens on, <a href="#Page_343">343</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Carlton House, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Caroline, Queen, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Catalpa, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_286">286</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cedars, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_321">321</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Chamberlain, Mr., house at Highbury, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Charles I., <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Charles II., <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Charlton, <a href="#Page_357">357</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Charterhouse, <a href="#Page_289">289–291</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Chelsea, <a href="#Page_311">311</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Ranelagh Gardens, <a href="#Page_315">315</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Waterworks, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Chelsea Hospital, <a href="#Page_311">311–317</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— burial-ground, <a href="#Page_314">314</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— statue in, <a href="#Page_313">313</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Chelsea Physic Garden, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_317">317</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— cedars, <a href="#Page_321">321</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— curators of, <a href="#Page_320">320</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— new management of, <a href="#Page_319">319</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— trees in, <a href="#Page_323">323</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— visit of Linnæus, <a href="#Page_324">324</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Chrysanthemums, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_159">159</a></li> + +<li class="indx">City Corporation Parks, <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Clapham Common, <a href="#Page_205">205–207</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Clement’s Inn, <a href="#Page_262">262</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Clifford’s Inn, <a href="#Page_263">263</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Climate, changes of, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Clissold Park, <a href="#Page_141">141–144</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Commons, <a href="#Page_185">185–216</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Clapham, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Deptford, <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hackney, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Old Oak, <a href="#Page_199">199</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Peckham Rye, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Plumstead, <a href="#Page_201">201</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Streatham, <a href="#Page_211">211</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Tooting, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Wandsworth, <a href="#Page_212">212</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Commons’ Preservation Society, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Commonwealth, sale of Royal Parks in time of, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cost of maintenance of Parks, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li> + +<li class="indx">County in Town Exhibition, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cox’s Walk, <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cromwell, Oliver, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_233">233</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Cromwell, Thomas, seizure of gardens by, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> + +<li class="pix">D</li> + +<li class="indx">Dahlia, <a href="#Page_341">341</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Deer, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Dell in Hyde Park, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Deptford Park, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Devonshire House, <a href="#Page_335">335</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Dolphin Fountain, Hyde Park, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Downing Street, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Drapers’ Company Garden, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Duck Island, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Duels, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_341">341</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Duke Humphrey’s Walk, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Duke of York’s School, Chelsea, <a href="#Page_311">311</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Dulwich College, <a href="#Page_175">175</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Dulwich Park, <a href="#Page_174">174–177</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— rock garden in, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> + +<li class="pix">E</li> + +<li class="indx">Eel Brook Common, <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Eltham Park, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Ely Place, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Embankment Gardens, <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Enfield, <a href="#Page_323">323</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Evelyn, John, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>, + <a href="#Page_309">309</a>, <a href="#Page_312">312</a>, <a href="#Page_325">325–326</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Exhibition of 1851, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> + +<li class="pix">F</li> + +<li class="indx">Fairchild, Thomas, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>, <a href="#Page_223">223</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Fawcett, Henry, <a href="#Page_163">163</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Fetter Lane, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Fickett’s Field, <a href="#Page_236">236</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Finsbury Circus, <a href="#Page_237">237</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Park, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139–141</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Square, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Fire of London, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Flowers at the Grey-coat School, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_379">379</span>—— in Greenwich Park, <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in Holborn, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in Hyde Park, <a href="#Page_46">46–48</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in Municipal Parks, <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in the Temple Gardens, <a href="#Page_272">272</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— of Shakespeare, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— suited to London, <a href="#Page_330">330–335</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Fogs, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Foley House, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Fordyce, Mr., <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Foundling Hospital, <a href="#Page_296">296</a></li> + +<li class="indx">French Gardeners, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Fuchsia, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Fulham Palace, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>, <a href="#Page_311">311</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— gardens at, <a href="#Page_345">345</a></li> + +<li class="pix">G</li> + +<li class="indx">Gardeners, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Company, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gardens, Castle, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— City, <a href="#Page_14">14–16</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— monastic, <a href="#Page_7">7–8</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gay, lines on Lincoln’s Inn Fields, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>, <a href="#Page_282">282</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gerard, John, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gibson, Mr., <a href="#Page_137">137–158</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Godfrey, Sir Edmondsbury, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Goose Green, <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gordon riots, <a href="#Page_194">194–233</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gospel Oak, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Grant, Baron, <a href="#Page_228">228</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gray’s Inn, <a href="#Page_283">283–288</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Green Park, <a href="#Page_56">56–73</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— fireworks in, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— railings round, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Ranger’s lodge in, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Green Walk, St. James’s Park, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Greens, <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Greenwich Fair, <a href="#Page_115">115</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Greenwich Park, <a href="#Page_106">106–118</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— birds in, <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— burials in, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— flowers in, <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Queen’s House, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— royal pageants in, <a href="#Page_109">109–113</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— wild flowers in, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Grey-coat School, Westminster, <a href="#Page_297">297</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Grosley, Mr., <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_281">281</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Grosvenor House, <a href="#Page_337">337</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Gunning, The Misses, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> + +<li class="pix">H</li> + +<li class="indx">Hackney, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Commons, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Downs, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Marsh, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hainault, Forest of, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hamilton Place, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hampstead Heath, <a href="#Page_192">192–198</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Jack Straw’s Castle, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Spaniards, <a href="#Page_194">194</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Wells, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— wild flowers, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hatton, Sir Christopher, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Heath, Bostall, <a href="#Page_199">199</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hampstead, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Henry VIII. and Hyde Park, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— at Greenwich, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Henry, Prince of Wales, <a href="#Page_357">357–359</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Highbury Fields, <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Highgate, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hilly Fields, <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Holborn, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Holland House, <a href="#Page_337">337–343</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Honourable Artillery Company, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Horniman Gardens, <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hornsey Wood, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Horse Guards’ Parade, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Horticultural Society, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hoxton, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hunting, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85–86</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hyde, Manor of, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hyde Park, <a href="#Page_23">23–55</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— area of flower beds, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— boundaries, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— cake-house in, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— deer in, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— dell, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— duels in, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— flowers in, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— forts erected in, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— fountains in, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— frame-ground in, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— gates, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— hunting in, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— keepers of, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_380">380</span>—— Parliamentary army in, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Plague in, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— railings round, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— reviews in, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Ring in, <a href="#Page_28">28–30</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— roads in, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— sale of, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— trees in, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— water in, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> + +<li class="pix">I</li> + +<li class="indx">Ice accident, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Ice-house in Green Park, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Inns of Court, <a href="#Page_261">261–288</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Ironmongers’ Almshouses, <a href="#Page_296">296</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Island Garden, Poplar, <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Isle of Dogs, <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Islip Abbot, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> + +<li class="pix">J</li> + +<li class="indx">Jack Straw’s Castle, <a href="#Page_194">194</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Jacobite Walk, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> + +<li class="indx">James I., <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> + +<li class="indx">James II., <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Jefferies, Richard, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Johnson, Thomas, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li> + +<li class="pix">K</li> + +<li class="indx">Kennington Common, <a href="#Page_164">164</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Kennington Park, <a href="#Page_164">164–166</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— fountain in, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— historical incidents, <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Kensington Gardens, <a href="#Page_41">41–50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— trees in, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Kensington Palace, <a href="#Page_36">36–40</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Kent, landscape gardener, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Kyrle Society, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> + +<li class="pix">L</li> + +<li class="indx">Ladywell Recreation Ground, <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lamb, Charles, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>, <a href="#Page_285">285</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lambeth, <a href="#Page_305">305</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lammas Lands, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Latimer, Bishop, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>, <a href="#Page_308">308</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Laud, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_305">305–306</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lauderdale House, Waterlow Park, <a href="#Page_147">147</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Le Nôtre, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lincoln, Earl of, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lincoln’s Inn, <a href="#Page_279">279–282</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Lincoln’s Inn Fields, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>, <a href="#Page_282">282</a></li> + +<li class="indx">L’Obel, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Loddige, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> + +<li class="indx">London and Wise, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> + +<li class="indx">London County Council, equipment of, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— expenditure on parks, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— inappropriate planting by, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— parks owned by, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> + +<li class="indx">London Fields, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hospital Garden, <a href="#Page_295">295</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Loudon, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>, <a href="#Page_223">223</a></li> + +<li class="pix">M</li> + +<li class="indx">Mall, The, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Manor Park or Manor House Gardens, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Marble Arch, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hill, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Marvel, Andrew, <a href="#Page_149">149</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Mary, Queen, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Marylebone Fields, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— origin of, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Marylebone Park, <a href="#Page_84">84–89</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— called Regent’s Park, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— lease to the Duke of Portland, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Manor-house in, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Maryon Park, <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Mayor of Garrett, <a href="#Page_212">212</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Meath Gardens, <a href="#Page_248">248</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Earl of, <a href="#Page_243">243</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Metropolitan Commons Act, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Gardens Association, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>, <a href="#Page_248">248</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Milton, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Minet, Mr. William, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Mirabeau, letters of, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Monastic gardens, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Montagu House, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>, <a href="#Page_335">335</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Montagu, Mrs., <a href="#Page_222">222</a>, <a href="#Page_336">336</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Moorfields, <a href="#Page_10">10–12</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_381">381</span>Moorgate, <a href="#Page_11">11</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Moravian Mission, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_311">311</a></li> + +<li class="indx">More, Sir Thomas, <a href="#Page_311">311</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Mother Shipton, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Municipal Parks, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— acreage of, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— criticisms upon, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— equipment of, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— flowers in, <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— formation of, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— green-houses in, <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— laying out of, <a href="#Page_126">126</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— old English gardens in, <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— situation of, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Myatt’s Fields, Camberwell, <a href="#Page_166">166–168</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— avenue in, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li> + +<li class="pix">N</li> + +<li class="indx">Naming plants, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Nash, architect, <a href="#Page_90">90–91</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Navy, timber in Marylebone Park used by Cromwell for, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Neate or Neyte, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_239">239</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Nell Gwynn, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Nesfield, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Nevill, Bishop of Chichester, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Court, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> + +<li class="indx">New River, <a href="#Page_142">142–143</a></li> + +<li class="indx">North Woolwich tea garden, <a href="#Page_134">134</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Nunhead Green, <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="pix">O</li> + +<li class="indx">Observatory, Greenwich, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> + +<li class="indx">“Old English Gardens,” <a href="#Page_151">151–154</a>, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Open Spaces, Select Committee on, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Osborne, Dorothy, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> + +<li class="pix">P</li> + +<li class="indx">Paddington Green, <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Pall Mall, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Pardon Churchyard, Charterhouse, <a href="#Page_236">236</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— St. Paul’s, <a href="#Page_250">250</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Parkinson, John, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_298">298</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Parks, acreage of, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— classes of, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— duels in, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— lighting of, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— maintenance of, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Municipal, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_159">159</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Royal, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— sale of, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Park system, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Parliament Hill, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Parson’s Green, <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Paul’s Cross, <a href="#Page_252">252</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Pawlet, Sir William, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Peckham Rye, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Pennethorne, Sir James, <a href="#Page_157">157</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Pepys, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, + <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>, + <a href="#Page_280">280</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Piccadilly, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Placentia or Plaisance, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Plague, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>, + <a href="#Page_257">257</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Plane trees, <a href="#Page_223">223</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Plants suited to London, <a href="#Page_330">330–335</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Plumstead Common, <a href="#Page_201">201</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Portland Place, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Postman’s Park, <a href="#Page_255">255</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Potatoes, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Primrose Hill, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Private gardens, <a href="#Page_327">327–356</a></li> + +<li class="pix">Q</li> + +<li class="indx">Quaggy River, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Queen’s House, Greenwich, <a href="#Page_113">113–114</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Queen’s Walk, Green Park, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Quintinye, de la, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> + +<li class="pix">R</li> + +<li class="indx">Ranelagh Gardens, <a href="#Page_315">315</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Ranger’s Lodge, Green Park, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Greenwich Park, <a href="#Page_115">115</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Ravensbourne, <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Ravenscourt Park, <a href="#Page_152">152–154</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— old English garden in, <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— trees in, <a href="#Page_153">153</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Red House, Battersea, <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Reform Bill riots, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Regent’s Park, <a href="#Page_83">83–105</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— architecture and houses, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— banqueting houses in, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_382">382</span>—— canal, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— deer, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— duels in, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— flowers in, <a href="#Page_101">101–102</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— formerly Marylebone Park, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— hunting in, <a href="#Page_85">85–86</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Manor-house in, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— railings, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— sale by Cromwell, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Societies in, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— stone vase in, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— villas in, <a href="#Page_93">93–94</a>, <a href="#Page_347">347</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Repton, Humphrey, <a href="#Page_231">231–239</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Rhododendrons in Hyde Park, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Ring in Hyde Park, <a href="#Page_28">28–30</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Riots in Hyde Park, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Rock gardens, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Rooks, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Rosamond’s Pond, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Roses, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>, <a href="#Page_334">334</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Rotten Row, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Round Pond, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Royal Avenue, Chelsea, <a href="#Page_312">312</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Ruskin Park, <a href="#Page_168">168–170</a></li> + +<li class="pix">S</li> + +<li class="indx">Saint Alphege, London Wall, <a href="#Page_258">258</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Bartholomew’s Hospital, <a href="#Page_289">289</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Botolph’s, Aldersgate, <a href="#Page_255">255–256</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Christopher-le-Stocks, <a href="#Page_258">258</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Dunstan’s Lodge, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Dunstan’s, Stepney, <a href="#Page_245">245</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— George’s-in-the-East, <a href="#Page_246">246</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Giles, Cripplegate, <a href="#Page_258">258</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— James’s Palace, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_348">348</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— James’s Park, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56–82</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— —— animals and birds in, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>,73</li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— —— canal in, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— —— cows in, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— —— driving privileges in, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— —— Duck Island, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— —— flowers in, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— —— leper hospital in, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— —— a races in, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— —— Rosamond’sPond, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— —— tilting ring, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— John at Hackney, <a href="#Page_245">245</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— —— Knights of, <a href="#Page_7">7–8</a>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>, <a href="#Page_264">264</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— John’s Lodge, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Katherine Coleman, <a href="#Page_255">256</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Katharine’s, Regent’s Park, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_347">437</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Leonard’s, Shoreditch, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Martin, <a href="#Page_259">259</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Mary Staining, <a href="#Page_254">254</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Mary, Islington, <a href="#Page_245">245</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Olave’s, Hart Street, <a href="#Page_254">254–257</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Pancras-in-the-Fields, <a href="#Page_243">243</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Paul’s Churchyard, <a href="#Page_250">250–254</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Sand gardens for children, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Sayes Court, Deptford, <a href="#Page_325">325</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Scott, Sir Gilbert, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Seething Lane, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Serpentine, <a href="#Page_37">37–38</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42–45</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Shakespeare, flowers of, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Shepherd’s Bush, <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Shrubs suitable for London, <a href="#Page_330">330</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Skating, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— club, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Sloane, Sir Hans, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_318">318</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Smoke, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>, <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Spa Fields, <a href="#Page_247">247</a></li> + +<li class="indx">“Spaniards,” Hampstead, <a href="#Page_194">194</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Spring flowers suitable for London, <a href="#Page_334">334</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Springfield Park, <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Spring Gardens, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Squares, <a href="#Page_217">217–241</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Bedford, <a href="#Page_232">232</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Belgrave, <a href="#Page_238">238</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Berkeley, <a href="#Page_222">222</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Bloomsbury, <a href="#Page_231">231</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Brompton, <a href="#Page_240">240</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Brunswick, <a href="#Page_296">296</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Cadogan Place, <a href="#Page_239">239</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Cavendish, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Eaton, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>, <a href="#Page_239">239</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Finsbury, <a href="#Page_237">237</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Golden, <a href="#Page_226">226</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Grosvenor, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Hanover, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in Belgravia, <a href="#Page_238">238</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in Bloomsbury, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>, <a href="#Page_297">297</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in the East End, <a href="#Page_238">238</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Kensington, <a href="#Page_240">240</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_383">383</span>—— Ladbroke, <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Leicester, <a href="#Page_227">227</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Lincoln’s Inn Fields, <a href="#Page_234">234</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Manchester, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Mecklenburgh, <a href="#Page_297">297</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— New, <a href="#Page_235">235</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Portman, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>, <a href="#Page_336">336</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Queen’s, <a href="#Page_233">233</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Red Lion, <a href="#Page_233">233</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Russell, <a href="#Page_321">321</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Saint James’s, <a href="#Page_223">223</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Soho, <a href="#Page_229">229</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Southampton, <a href="#Page_231">231</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— statues in, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>, + <a href="#Page_231">231</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Trinity, <a href="#Page_237">237</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Vincent, <a href="#Page_238">238</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Sorbiere, M. de, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li> + +<li class="indx">South London Parks, <a href="#Page_155">155–184</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Southwark Park, <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Stepney, Manor of, <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Museum, <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Stoke Newington or Clissold Park, <a href="#Page_141">141–144</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Streatham Common, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, <a href="#Page_211">211</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Sub-tropical Garden, Battersea, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Summer-houses, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Switzer, Stephen, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> + +<li class="pix">T</li> + +<li class="indx">Telegraph Hill, <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Templars, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Temple, The, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>, <a href="#Page_264">264–279</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Bencher’s Garden, Inner, <a href="#Page_275">275</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Bencher’s Garden, Middle, <a href="#Page_275">275</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Temple Garden, chambers built on the, <a href="#Page_266">266</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— flowers in, <a href="#Page_272">272</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Fountain, <a href="#Page_269">269–275</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— green-house, <a href="#Page_272">272</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— iron gates, <a href="#Page_271">271</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— re-turfing, <a href="#Page_268">268</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— sun-dial, <a href="#Page_271">271</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Wars of the Roses begin in, <a href="#Page_277">277</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Thrale Place, <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Tinworth, sculpture by, <a href="#Page_163">163–166</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Tooting Beck, <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Common, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Graveney, <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Tortoise at Lambeth, <a href="#Page_307">307</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Toxopholite Society, <a href="#Page_307">307</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Tradescant, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_298">298</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Trees at Fulham, <a href="#Page_310">310</a>, <a href="#Page_345">345</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in Chelsea Physic Garden, <a href="#Page_321">321–323</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in Greenwich Park, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in Hyde Park, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in Municipal Parks, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, + <a href="#Page_147">147</a>, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in Regent’s Park, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— in squares, <a href="#Page_223">223</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— pruning of, <a href="#Page_128">128</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Trinity Hospital, Mile End, <a href="#Page_293">293</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Turner, William, <a href="#Page_257">257</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Tyburn, Manor of, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> + +<li class="pix">U</li> + +<li class="indx">Upper Park, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Uvedale, Robert, <a href="#Page_323">323</a></li> + +<li class="pix">V</li> + +<li class="indx">Vatcher, Rev. Sidney, <a href="#Page_295">295</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Vauxhall Gardens, <a href="#Page_161">161</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Vauxhall Park, <a href="#Page_161">161–164</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— purchase of, <a href="#Page_162">162</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Veitch, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Verjuice, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Victoria Docks, <a href="#Page_157">157</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Victoria Park, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135–139</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— birds in, <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— planting in, <a href="#Page_137">137</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Victoria Park Cemetery, <a href="#Page_248">248</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Victoria, Queen, Memorial, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Vineyards, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Vintage, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> + +<li class="pix">W</li> + +<li class="indx">Wages in 1554, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Wandsworth Common, <a href="#Page_212">212</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Waterlow Park, <a href="#Page_145">145–150</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— historical events in, <a href="#Page_147">147–149</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— ponds in, <a href="#Page_147">147</a></li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_384">384</span>—— trees in, <a href="#Page_147">147</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Waterlow, Sir Sidney, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_149">149</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Waterworks Company, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Westminster, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_299">299</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Westminster Abbey, <a href="#Page_299">299–305</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— gardens in monastic times, <a href="#Page_302">302</a></li> + +<li class="indx">—— Little Cloister, <a href="#Page_299">299</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Whip Club, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Whitechapel, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Whitfield, <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Wild flowers near London, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li> + +<li class="indx">William III., <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Wine, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Winter Garden, Duke Street, <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Wise, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Woolwich, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Wormwood Scrubs, <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li> + +<li class="pix">Y</li> + +<li class="indx">Yews, Irish, <a href="#Page_245">245</a></li> + +<li class="pix">Z</li> + +<li class="indx">Zoological Society, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Zouche, Lord, Garden in Hackney, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> +</ul> +</div></div> + +<p class="p2 center wspace smaller">THE END</p> + +<p class="p2 center smaller vspace"> +Printed by <span class="smcap">Ballantyne, Hanson & Co.</span><br> +Edinburgh & London +</p> + +<figure id="i_mapback" class="figcenter" style="max-width: 50em;"> + <img src="images/i_map.jpg" width="1005" height="826" alt="map"> + <figcaption class="large"> + <a href="images/i_map_large.jpg">(Large)</a> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<div class="chapter transnote"> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="Transcribers_Notes">Transcriber’s Notes</h2> + +<p>Punctuation, hyphenation, and spelling were made +consistent when a predominant preference was found +in the original book; otherwise they were not changed.</p> + +<p>Simple typographical errors were corrected; unbalanced +quotation marks were remedied when the change was +obvious, and otherwise left unbalanced.</p> + +<p>Illustrations in this eBook have been positioned +between paragraphs and outside quotations. In versions +of this eBook that support hyperlinks, the page +references in the List of Illustrations lead to the +corresponding illustrations.</p> + +<p>The Errata following <a href="#ERRATA">page 376</a> have been corrected +in this eBook.</p> + +<p><a href="#FOOTNOTES">Footnotes</a>, originally at the bottoms of the pages that referenced them, +have been collected, sequentially renumbered, and placed near the end of +the book, just before the index.</p> + +<p>The <a href="#INDEX">index</a> was not checked for proper alphabetization +or correct page references.</p> + +<p><a href="#Page_203">Page 203</a>: “West Kent Grammer School” was printed +that way.</p> + +<p><a href="#Page_277">Pages 277–278</a>: In the original book, the speakers’ names were to the +left of the dialog. In this eBook, they are above the dialog.</p> + +<p>Ditto marks in the <a href="#LIST_OF_SOME_OF_THE_WORKS_CONSULTED">Appendices</a> of this eBook are not aligned as nicely +as in the original book.</p> + +<p><a href="#Page_368">Pages 368–374</a>: In the original book, asterisks +indicating “not in existence” were positioned +at the left sides of the lines. In this ebook, +they are positioned at the right sides. +</p> +</div> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76057 ***</div> +</body> +</html> + diff --git a/76057-h/images/cover-small.jpg b/76057-h/images/cover-small.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..356ad42 --- /dev/null +++ b/76057-h/images/cover-small.jpg diff --git a/76057-h/images/cover.jpg b/76057-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a900eaf --- /dev/null +++ b/76057-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/76057-h/images/i_idc_a.png b/76057-h/images/i_idc_a.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..179cd0b --- /dev/null +++ b/76057-h/images/i_idc_a.png diff --git a/76057-h/images/i_idc_i.png b/76057-h/images/i_idc_i.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..615bbb8 --- /dev/null +++ b/76057-h/images/i_idc_i.png diff --git a/76057-h/images/i_idc_l.png b/76057-h/images/i_idc_l.png Binary files differnew file mode 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