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diff --git a/75558-0.txt b/75558-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e308e9b --- /dev/null +++ b/75558-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6917 @@ + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 75558 *** + + + + + + TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE + + Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. + + This book has only one Footnote and it has been placed close to its + anchor [1], in Appendix A. + + Some minor changes to the text are noted at the end of the book. + + + + +[Illustration: (photo portrait of O. B. Boyd, with his signature)] + + + + + CAVALRY LIFE + + IN + + TENT AND FIELD + + BY + + MRS. ORSEMUS BRONSON BOYD + + + NEW YORK + J. SELWIN TAIT & SONS + 65 FIFTH AVENUE + 1894 + + + + + COPYRIGHT, 1894, + + BY + + MRS. ORSEMUS BRONSON BOYD. + + _All Rights Reserved._ + + + C. J. PETERS & SON, + TYPE-SETTERS AND ELECTROTYPERS, + BOSTON, U.S.A. + + + + + CAVALRY LIFE + + IN + + TENT AND FIELD. + + + + + TO MY DEAR BROTHER + + JAMES, + + I Dedicate this Little Book + + AS A FAINT TOKEN OF GRATITUDE FOR THE LOVE THAT + A WHOLE LIFETIME OF DEVOTION WOULD + NOT BE SUFFICIENT TO REPAY. + + THE AUTHOR. + + + + +PREFACE. + + +I take pleasure in directing attention to the kind and affectionate +tribute paid my husband, Captain Orsemus Bronson Boyd, and contained +in the Appendix of this volume. It is from the pen of a former +classmate, the gifted writer, Colonel Richard Henry Savage. + +I trust my readers will not think this introduction too lengthy. The +perusal of it seems necessary to a proper understanding of my reasons +for describing, in the following pages, the pains, perils, and +pleasures experienced by land and sea in the various peregrinations +of a cavalry officer’s wife. With Colonel Savage’s testimonial it +furnishes a completeness to the narrative that would otherwise be +lacking. + + * * * * * + +In 1861, when every heart, both North and South, was fired by +military ardor, two brothers, named Amos and Orsemus Boyd, lived +in the small town of Croton, Delaware County, New York State. +Immediately on the declaration of civil war they experienced but one +desire—to join the Northern Army. The brothers had lost their mother +when very young, but the stepmother their father had given them +always endeavored to faithfully fill her place. + +Additions to the family circle of a tiny boy and girl had only +cemented its happy relations. Amos and his brother were, however, +at the ages when boys welcome any escape from a life of wearisome +monotony. Farm life, with its endless routine of seed-time and +harvest, stretched before them a barren horizon. But neither was old +enough to enlist without his father’s sanction. Amos was less than +eighteen years of age, and his brother but sixteen. Months passed +before the father could be persuaded to give even a reluctant consent +to the fervid desire of his sons to join the army. Finally it was +gained, though he afterward sorely repented, and begged his wife to +also spare him from her side, that he might accompany his boys. He +could not endure the thought of his youthful sons departing for the +scenes of such dangers without his sheltering presence. + +By what means Mrs. Boyd was induced to consent to her husband’s +enlistment can only be understood by those who recall the loyal +sentiments expressed by women in 1861. Our country was then aglow +with patriotism. As in the South women gave their nearest and dearest +to the cause, so in the North they were bereft of fathers, husbands, +sons and brothers. In the little town of Croton every family sent at +least one representative to the army, and many waved adieu to all +its male members. This left to women the severe tasks of cultivating +farms and rearing families. + +The young stepmother of the lads in question not only lent her +husband to his country, but during the entire three years of his +absence tilled and tended the farm, and so well, that on his return +it had not only improved in appearance, but also increased in value. + +It requires little imagination to picture the sad parting when father +and sons, after having enlisted in the Eighty-ninth Regiment New York +Volunteers, left the quiet little village to join the army. + +The younger son was not at first permitted to act as a soldier on +account of his youth. Allowed to carry the flag at the head of +the command, his bravery and boldness caused his father incessant +anxiety. At the battle of Camden, when the second color bearer fell, +our young hero seized his flag and carried that also until the close +of battle. For such an act of bravery General Burnside summoned him +to headquarters, and sent him home on recruiting service. + +Prior to this young Boyd had been with Burnside’s expedition off Cape +Hatteras, where for twenty-six days the soldiers had lain outside, +shipwrecked, and obliged to subsist on raw rice alone, as no fires +could be built. When they finally landed on Roanoke Island our young +lads were jubilant. + +Orsemus took an active part in raising the One Hundred and +Forty-fourth New York Volunteers, and for numberless acts of bravery +was commissioned second lieutenant of Company D, September, 1862. By +reason of the senior officers’ absence he was for months, though but +eighteen years of age, in command of a company of soldiers in which +his father and elder brother were enlisted men. Perhaps no incident, +even in those stirring war times, was more unusual. + +The young lieutenant’s father spent much time and effort in +endeavoring to restrain his young son’s ardor and ambition, which if +unchecked would no doubt have resulted either in rapid promotion or +an early grave. The lad knew no fear, and was always in the front of +battle. His name was again and again mentioned in “General Orders” +for “meritorious conduct.” + +Sadder than their home leaving was the return, two years later, +of father and youngest boy, who went back to lay the remains of +their eldest son and brother in the grave beside his mother. Amos +had served his country well, and met the fate of many other brave +soldiers. + +In addition to this sorrow the father constantly feared lest his +second son should also experience a soldier’s death; and while the +father’s heart glowed with pride at the encomiums lavished upon his +boy’s bravery, and the merited rewards it had already received, yet +the fear of losing him was strongest, and at that home coming a +compromise was effected. + +The member of Congress from their district, desirous of finding +an acceptable appointee to West Point, chose the gallant young +lieutenant, who unwillingly accepted. Two years of active service had +proved his essential fitness for the profession of arms. + +With a heart burdened with sorrow, and yet not entirely hopeless, the +father of two brave sons returned alone to his regiment, and finished +three years of service with our noble Army of the Potomac. + +Orsemus Boyd entered West Point in June, 1863, after having spent +a short time in preparation. No doubt his years of service at the +front had given the lad ideas at variance with the whims of those +young men who had already passed their first year at the academy. + +Any one who has been at West Point knows that a newly appointed +cadet, or “plebe” as he is called, is expected not only to bow before +his superior officers in the line of duty, but is compelled to endure +all slights and snubs that any cadet chooses to impose. In 1863 the +discipline in that respect was excessive. + +The result, in the case of Mr. Boyd, was that he became unpopular +for refusing to submit to many annoyances. The climax was reached +when, after having fought with one cadet and come out the victor, +he refused—having demonstrated his courage and ability—to fight +with another, a man who had criticised the language used in the +heat of battle, and was consequently dubbed a coward. This, though +exceedingly trying to a person of his sensitive nature, was endured +with the same patience as were subsequent trials. + +After the furlough year, which comes when the first long two years +of cadet life have passed, Mr. Boyd returned to West Point from that +most desired leave of absence, with renewed hope and courage. Two +months spent in his boyhood’s home, cheered and strengthened by the +love of many friends, enabled him to go back animated by fullest +intentions to ignore all disagreeables and calmly prepare for a life +of usefulness. But it was not to be. + +Shortly after Mr. Boyd’s return he missed sums of money brought from +home, but said nothing about it, as he had few confidants and was +naturally reticent. + +In the same class with Mr. Boyd was a man who had entered West Point +at the avowed age of twenty-five, though undoubtedly much older, +as his appearance indicated. During war time the extreme of age +for admission there, which before and since was and is limited to +twenty-two years, had been extended to twenty-five. This was done +in order to permit young men who had achieved distinction in real +warfare the opportunity of acquiring a military education. So this +man, named Casey, had entered at the acknowledged age of twenty-five. + +He was absolutely impecunious, and belonged to an Irish family in +very humble circumstances. Mr. Boyd’s parents, whose ancestors had +fought in the Revolutionary War, were of pure and unadulterated +American origin. Yet the superior age and cunning of the elder man +unfitted the younger to cope with him. Always open and above board, +Mr. Boyd neither knew nor expected tricks of any kind, and hence was +not prepared to meet them. + +Mr. Casey was compelled to procure money at all hazards. Before +entering West Point he had married. That fact, if known, would have +dismissed him at once from the academy, in accordance with the laws +governing that institution, which permit no cadet to marry. It +therefore became the object of Casey’s life to conceal all knowledge +of that which, if known, would have proved a potent factor in his +downfall. Consumed with ambition and the desire to reach distinction +in every social way, he assiduously cultivated the acquaintance of +all cadets who could in any manner help him upward. + +In the academy at that time were several cadets, sons of very wealthy +parents, who, contrary to West Point rules, kept in their rooms at +barracks large sums of money. That was Casey’s opportunity, for +he had constant need of it with which to silence the wife who had +threatened his exposure. So great was the confidence of the academy +classmates in each other that the money was simply placed in a trunk, +to which all the clique had free access, and used as a general fund. + +Government supplies cadets with all necessary articles, therefore +only luxuries need be purchased, and the limit of these is much +reduced by the absence of stores. So even to those generous young men +the disappearance of money in large sums became puzzling, and led to +inquiries which developed into suspicions, and a plan was formed to +mark some of the bills, and thus discover the evil-doer. Mr. Boyd, +by reason of his unpopularity, was unaware of these movements, and he +had told no one of his own losses. + +The cadets had informed their immediate commandant that money was +constantly being stolen in the corps. Aghast at such a state of +affairs, he had authorized and selected a committee of eight—two +from among the eldest members of each company—to find and punish the +thief. In an unguarded moment the commandant had said: + +“If you find the offender, you can deal with him as you deem +advisable.” + +The most prominent member of the committee was Casey, himself the +real culprit. After a perfunctory search through quarters occupied by +other cadets, they reached Mr. Boyd’s, and found nothing to reward +their efforts. At that juncture Casey glanced upward at a pile of +books lying on some shelves, and said: + +“Let us look in that large dictionary.” + +None but a crowd of frantic boys could have failed to have observed +how promptly he had selected the veritable book in which the money +was found, where subsequent events, as well as his dying confession, +proved he had himself placed it. + +Casey’s room, shared with Cadet Hamilton, was directly opposite that +occupied by Mr. Boyd, who roomed alone because of his unpopularity. +Mr. Boyd’s room was so unguarded and accessible, that no doubt Casey +had frequently entered it and taken money from the man whom he now +accused. Casey had skillfully sought to direct suspicion in every way +toward Mr. Boyd. Long had he wielded his baleful influence, to which, +though no one had observed it, all had succumbed. + +The search took place at noon, when the main body of the corps were +at dinner. On Mr. Boyd’s return to his room he found it filled with +cadets, who madly accused him of the crime. White with horror and +shame unspeakable, he answered their charges in a way which would +have convinced any judge of human nature that he was entirely +innocent. Sinking to his knees, and raising his eyes to heaven, he +said: + +“By the memory of my dead mother I swear I know nothing whatever of +this money!” + +To any one who knew the young man’s tender, brave soul, and how +hallowed was the memory of his mother, that avowal would have +sufficed. But it was not an occasion for calm and deliberate +judgment. The supposed culprit had at last been found, and he was in +the hands of Philistines. No thought of mercy impelled any of those +young men to hesitate in their cruelty. With brute force—eight men to +one man—they placed Mr. Boyd in confinement until later in the day, +when at dress parade they could publicly and brutally disgrace him. + +I now quote, from a published account by an eye-witness, the scene +which followed: + + “It was a cold, sad, lusterless day. The air was full of snow + and the cold was bitter. Orders were given to fall into ranks + in the area of barracks for undress parade. The cadet adjutant + commanded: ‘Parade Rest.’ After a pause he continued: ‘Cadet + captains will place themselves opposite their respective company + fronts, and arrest any man who leaves the ranks.’ + + “There was an interval of the most profound stillness. Then above + the wind’s howling came the sound of tramping feet. Across the + broad porch of the barracks and down the steps came four cadets, + bearing between them a man’s form. They advanced along the + battalion’s front. As they turned, the adjutant raised his right + hand, and forthwith the drums and fifes beat and wailed out, + in unmelodious and unearthly harmony, the terrible tune of the + ‘Rogue’s March.’ + + “On they came; and now I saw affixed to that man’s breast a large + white placard, and on it the words: ‘COWARD!’ ‘LIAR!’ ‘THIEF!’ + The face above the words was marble white as the face of the + dead, but the wild, staring, blood-red eyes seemed to wail and + shrink in their horrible misery. + + “The four cadets passed along the full length of the battalion, + and with their victim turned down the slope beyond the buildings + and disappeared.” + +On their way to the South Dock the persecuted man broke away from his +accusers, but was warned to “beware” how he “ever set foot again +upon West Point,” and threatened with yet worse treatment should he +do so. + +General Cullum was then in command at West Point. On that particular +evening he was returning from the direction of the dock toward which +those heartless cadets had driven Mr. Boyd, when he met the young man +face to face. Amazed at the temerity of a cadet who could boldly face +him in civilian’s attire, he halted and said: + +“What do you mean, sir? Return at once to your quarters!” + +The general’s first and most natural thought was that Mr. Boyd had +dressed himself in civilian’s clothes, and was stealing off the post +in search of amusement. But a second glance showed him a face full +of grief and shame—a countenance on which utter woe was depicted. +He took the young man at once to his own quarters, questioned him, +and found to his dismay that the cadets had perpetrated a most +unprecedented and cruel outrage. + +General Cullum determined then and there that the matter should be +sifted to the bottom. Mr. Boyd was to be tried, and proven either +guilty or guiltless. His father was sent for, and the son allowed to +return home pending the investigation. + +What greater sorrow can be imagined than that which then fell upon +this sorely stricken family? A young man who had faced the enemy’s +fire again and again, who had already won his shoulder-straps in +the very front of war’s alarms, to be charged with petty thievery, +untruth, and cowardice! His stepmother said: + +“Had our son been accused of fighting hastily, perhaps too readily, +I could have believed him guilty. But for the sake of money Orsemus +never could have done wrong.” + +Mr. Boyd had been supplied by his father with all the money he +wanted, and at his own request an account kept of it, which showed +that before this episode he had spent three hundred dollars—a large +sum in a place like West Point, where every need is supplied by +government. + +The court of inquiry instituted by General Cullum resulted in a +verdict of “not guilty.” In the eyes of the cadets, whose insensate +cruelty had warped their judgment, it was simply a Scotch verdict of +“not proven;” and, though acquitted, the defendant was thenceforth a +disgraced and dishonored man. + +Mr. Boyd remained at the academy nearly two years longer, until his +graduation in June, 1867. During all that time he was completely +ostracized, and, with one, or possibly two exceptions, never +exchanged one word with any cadet, all of whom regarded him as a +coward. But none can contemplate such a life without marveling at its +wonderful courage. Mr. Boyd had determined to graduate with honor, +and thus show the world that he possessed such bravery as would not +allow false charges to ruin his whole career. + +I was introduced to him in 1866, and before our meeting had heard +the whole story. The first look into his frank and manly countenance +made me from that moment his stanch and true advocate. I was then +attending school in New York, but finished in July, and we were +married in October, three months after Mr. Boyd graduated. + +Then began the hardships born of that West Point episode. Of course +such bitter and terrible wrongs could not have been done a sensitive +man without their affecting his whole life. To this may be attributed +Mr. Boyd’s desire to go West, and there remain. + +It engendered in him a great unwillingness to demand even his just +dues; and when he was ordered to leave California at a day’s notice, +and given no proper transportation, he submitted without a murmur. As +I shared all those hardships, and shall always feel their effects, +I have no hesitancy in saying that I attribute them all to the West +Point wrong and injury. + +Mr. Boyd could have entered the artillery branch of the service had +he not longed to escape all reminders of that terrible experience, +and so chose the Eighth Cavalry, which was stationed on the Pacific +coast. + +The subsequent hardships endured were due not only to the crude state +of affairs at the West in those days, but also to the crushed spirit +which so much injustice had engendered in my husband. He could not +bear to ask favors, and be, perhaps, refused. Mr. Boyd even shrank +at first from his fellow-officers. I know that no enlisted man’s +wife was ever exposed to more or severer perils than was the young +school-girl from New York City; and I consider them the direct result +of those sad years at West Point. + +Mr. Boyd was always selected in after-years to handle the funds at +every post where we were stationed, which distinctly showed how +his honor was regarded by men competent to judge. But it resulted +in countless expeditions that were both hazardous and expensive. +He was sent by General Pope to build Fort Bayard because of his +incorruptible honesty; but to be so constantly changing stations +added greatly to our hardships. + +“Vengeance is mine; I will repay, saith the Lord.” A singular +evidence of the truth and justice of this text is shown in the meting +out to those eight misguided young men of sorrow, misery, and sudden +death, which seems to me a return for their attempted sacrifice of +the career and honor of a gallant and innocent man. The roll is a +terrible one. Casey, after confessing his crime, concealed it, aided +and abetted by Hamilton. In less than a year after his apparently +honorable graduation, he was shot by one of his own soldiers. Of the +remainder, two committed suicide, one was murdered, one butchered by +Modoc Indians; while family sorrow, bankruptcy, and disappointment or +untimely death have caused the rest to mournfully regret their early +hastiness and error of judgment, and the acts of gross cruelty which +sprang therefrom. + + THE AUTHOR. + + + + +CAVALRY LIFE. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + +Whether or not these personal reminiscences will interest the public +remains to be determined; for one thing the narrator can vouch, +and that is they are not in the least exaggerated. Several army +experiences have of late been printed, and when in recounting mine I +have often been asked to write them, it was not, as I then thought, +for the purpose of publication; although, as they have been unusual, +to say the least, I have been tempted to do so; and now that the +whole course of my life has been changed I have reasons for issuing +this book which may perhaps plead my excuse should the narrative +prove uninteresting to some. + +The army world, though a small one, yet extends over a large +amount of territory. My experience of it, previous to marriage, +consisted in seeing, entirely at its best, beautiful West Point, +which I considered a fair type of every army post; so when I +married, immediately after his graduation from there, a young second +lieutenant, I thought that however far we might travel such a home +would always be found at our journey’s end. + +My husband, previous to his four years at West Point, as narrated +in the preface, had been a soldier for two years in the War of the +Rebellion, where he had so signalized himself by bravery that friends +united in urging his father to remove the lad from the perilous +surroundings of active warfare, and permit him to be educated in the +profession for which he had shown such a decided talent. He was at +that time but eighteen years old, and was probably the only man of +that age who ever commanded a company in which his father and brother +were enlisted men. + +Mr. Boyd’s previous career causing him to prefer the cavalry branch +of the service, application was therefore made for that; so when +appointed he was ordered to San Francisco. Not knowing whence from +there he would be sent, as some of the companies of his regiment were +in Nevada, some in Arizona, and others in California, it was deemed +unwise for me to accompany him, so I remained in New York. + +We had been married but two days, and it seemed to me as if San +Francisco was as far away as China, particularly as there was then no +trans-continental railroad. Besides, I had lived in New York City all +my life, and considered it the only habitable place on the globe. + +When Mr. Boyd reached San Francisco he was assigned to a station in +Nevada, which was so remote, and there appeared to be so little hope +for any comfortable habitation, that he wrote me the prospect for my +journey was very indefinite. + +However, with the hopefulness of youth, he counted on a far more +speedy accomplishment of his desires than anything in the nature of +the situation seemed to warrant. The troops had been sent, as a sort +of advance guard and protective force for the contemplated Pacific +Railroad, to a point in the very eastern part of Nevada. The camp was +named “Halleck,” in honor of General Halleck, and the accommodations +were so limited that ladies were hardly needed, except to emphasize +the limitations. Although it was well understood that I could not be +comfortably located until summer, yet no second hint was needed when +in mid-winter my husband wrote that I might come at least as far as +San Francisco. + +In the middle of January I left New York on one of the fine steamers +of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company. The three weeks _en route_ +were delightful, and the change from bleak, cold winter to the +tropical scenes of Panama, and thence to the soft and balmy air of +the Pacific, was so exhilarating that travel was simply a continuous +pleasure. + +Upon reaching San Francisco, nothing seemed more natural than that I +should press on, in spite of the protestations of friends, who said +that the Sierra Nevada Mountains were impassable at that season, and +who predicted all sorts of mishaps. Nothing daunted, I determined at +least to try, and so took steamer for Sacramento, and from thence +train to Cisco, at the foot of the mountains, and the then terminus +of the Pacific Railway. After leaving the train we continued our +journey on sleds, in the midst of a blinding snow-storm, that +compelled us to envelop our heads in blankets. + +The snow, however, did not last many miles, and we were soon +transferred to the regular stage-coach, a large vehicle with +thorough-braces instead of springs, and a roomy interior which +suggested comfort. Alas! only suggested! Possibly no greater +discomfort could have been endured than my companion and self +underwent that night. Those old-fashioned stage-coaches for +mountain travel were intended to be well filled inside, and well +packed outside. But it so happened that instead of the usual full +complement of passengers, one other woman and myself were all. + +A pen far more expert than mine would be required to do justice to +the horrors of that night. Though we had left Cisco at noon, we did +not reach Virginia City, on the other side of the mountains, until +ten o’clock next morning. As long as daylight lasted we watched in +amazement those wonderful mountains, which should have been called +“Rocky,” for they have enormous precipices and rocky elevations at +many points; from the highest we gazed down into ravines at least +fifteen hundred feet below, and shuddered again and again. + +One point, called Cape Horn, a bold promontory, is famous, and as +great a terror to stage-drivers as is the cape from which it takes +its name to navigators. We peered into endless precipices, down which +we momentarily expected to be launched, for the seeming recklessness +of our driver and extreme narrowness of the roads made such a fate +appear imminent. + +Our alarm did not permit us to duly appreciate the scenery’s +magnificent grandeur; besides, every possible effort was required to +keep from being tossed about like balls. We did not expect to find +ourselves alive in the morning, and passed the entire night holding +on to anything that promised stability. An ordinary posture was quite +impossible: we had either to brace ourselves by placing both feet +against the sides of the vehicle, or seize upon every strap within +reach. + +Long before morning all devices, except the extreme one of lying flat +on the bottom of the coach and resigning ourselves to the inevitable, +had failed. Every muscle ached with the strain that had been required +to keep from being bruised by the constant bumping, and even then we +had by no means escaped. + +We had supped at Donner Lake, a beautiful spot in the very heart of +the mountains, made famous by the frightful sufferings of the Donner +party, which had given the lake its name, and which has been so well +described by Bret Harte in “Gabriel Conroy,” that a passing mention +will suffice. It proved an unfortunate prelude to our eventful night; +for in the midst of our own sufferings we were compelled to think of +what might befall us if we, like that ill-fated party, should be left +to the mercy of those grand but cruel mountains, which already seemed +so relentless in their embrace that although haste meant torture yet +we longed to see the last of them. + +The bright sun shone high overhead long before we reached Virginia +City, where I saw for the first time a real mining-town. It is not my +purpose to describe what has been so ably done by others, but simply +confine myself to personal experiences; and I will, therefore, merely +state that I gladly left Virginia City, knowing that soon after +we should emerge from mountain roads, and on level plains be less +tortured. + +We were not, however, quite prepared for the method that made jolting +impossible, and which, being the very extreme of our previous +night’s journey, was almost equally unendurable. On leaving the +breakfast-table at Virginia City, we were greatly surprised to find +our coach almost full of passengers; but we climbed in, and for five +days and nights were carried onward without the slightest change of +any sort. There was a front and back seat, and between the two a +middle one, which faced the back that we occupied. Whenever in the +course of the succeeding five days and nights it was needful to move +even our feet, we could only do so by asking our _vis-à-vis_ to move +his at the same time, as there was not one inch of space unoccupied. + +The rough frontiersmen who were our fellow-passengers tried in +every way to make our situation more endurable. After we had sat +bolt upright for two days and nights, vainly trying to snatch a few +moments’ sleep, which the constant lurching of the stage rendered +impossible, the two men directly facing us proposed, with many +apologies, that we should allow them to lay folded blankets on their +laps, when, by leaning forward and laying our heads on the rests thus +provided, our weary brains might find some relief. We gratefully +assented, only to find, however, that the unnatural position rendered +sleep impossible, so decided to bear our hardships as best we could +until released by time. + +Our only respite was when the stage stopped for refreshments; but +as we experienced all the mishaps consequent upon a journey in +mid-winter, such as deep, clinging mud, which made regular progress +impossible, we frequently found that meals were conspicuous by +their absence; or we breakfasted at midnight and dined in the early +morning. The food was of the sort all frontier travelers have +eaten—biscuits almost green with saleratus, and meats sodden with +grease, which disguised their natural flavors so completely that I +often wondered what animals of the prairies were represented. + +The names of our stopping-places were pretentious to such a degree +that days passed before I was able to believe such grand titles +could be personated by so little. I also noticed that a particularly +forbidding exterior, and interior as well, would be called by the +most high sounding name. + +Alas for my hopes of escape from mountain travel! How gladly would +I have welcomed some mountains instead of the endless monotony of +that prairie! Nevada is particularly noted for the entire absence +of trees, and the presence of a low, uninteresting shrub called +sage-brush. It looks exactly as the name indicates, is a dingy +sage-green in color, and, with the exception of a bush somewhat +darker in hue and called grease-wood because it burns so readily, +nothing else could be seen, not only for miles and miles, but day +after day, until the weary eye longed for change. At dusk imagination +compelled me to regard those countless bushes as flocks of sheep, so +similar did they appear in the dim light, and I was unable to divest +my mind of that idea during our entire stay in Nevada. + +With such a state of affairs sleep was out of the question, and +consequently nights seemed endless. I considered myself fortunate +in having an end seat, and often counted the revolutions of the +wheels until they appeared to turn more and more slowly, when I would +propound that frequent query which always enraged the driver: + +“How long before we reach the next station?” + +I remember one night we made eight miles in fifteen hours, and the +next day fifteen miles in eight hours. Both seemed wearily slow; but +according to our driver the roads were to blame. + +That night the monotony was relieved by what we considered a very +pleasing incident, as it afforded some excitement. A rather small pig +decided to accompany us, and some of the passengers made our driver +frantic by betting on piggy winning the race: as a fact, he did reach +the station first. I felt quite dejected at having to leave him +there; for in our lonely journey we longed for companions in misery, +and he seemed very miserable during that weary night. + +Notwithstanding the level monotony of the country, we were constantly +being brought up short by gullies which crossed our road. The +sensation was akin to that one experiences when arrested by the +so-called “thank-you-mums,” met with in Eastern rural districts. + +As the very tiniest streams in the West are designated rivers, we +were always expecting, only to be disappointed, great things in that +line. At last, when we reached Austin, and saw that the Reese River +could be stepped across, all expectations of future greatness in the +way of rivers were relinquished. + +Austin, at that time a very small mining-town, was so insignificant +as to be regarded as merely a mile-stone on the journey. We gladly +left it to continue our travels, which soon became less monotonous by +reason of low mountains that we crossed in the night, before reaching +what I had hoped was to be the end of my long stage-ride. + +Mr. Boyd had arrived first at the military camp at Ruby, where +we remained two days to rest before continuing our journey. This +was necessary, as the loss of sleep for five long nights had so +prostrated me that when I found myself in a recumbent position, +consciousness to all outside surroundings was so completely lost that +the intervening day and night were entirely blotted out. + +I no longer felt particularly young. Experience and the loss of sleep +had aged me. Yet knowing that the years which had passed over my head +were as few as were consistent with the dignity of a married woman, +I was taken quite aback when one of the employees connected with the +stage station asked my husband: + +“How did the old woman stand the trip?” + +I listened intently for his answer, fully expecting to hear the man +severely rebuked, if not laid flat; but Mr. Boyd understood human +nature better than I, and in the most polite tones replied: + +“Thank you, very well indeed.” + +We were then within about one hundred miles of our destination, Fort +Halleck, Nevada, and the remainder of our journey was to be made +in an entirely different vehicle from the stage-coach—a government +ambulance, and in this case the most uncomfortable one I have ever +seen. Many are delightful; but that was an old, worthless affair, +and instead of the usual comfortable cross seats had long side +ones, which covered with slippery leather made security of position +impossible. My trunk was first placed inside, then a huge bundle of +forage, which left only room for two people near the door. + +We jogged on monotonously the first day, seeing the same scenery: +it seemed to me a duplicate of that looked upon for days past. Very +thankful I was, however, for the absence of any steep hills; for +we fully expected, at the first climb, to be buried under my own +huge trunk, which appeared to have as great a tendency to shift its +position as I had. + +Instead of feeling a womanly pride in the possession of an abundant +wardrobe, I ruefully wished most of it had been left behind, more +especially as the stage company charged a dollar for each pound of +its weight. The combined amount of this and my stage fare was just +two hundred and fifty dollars. As my fare by steamer had been exactly +that amount, I had, before reaching my husband, disposed of five +hundred dollars, in return for which five seemingly endless days and +sleepless nights of tiresome travel had been endured, together with +many bumps and bruises. + +One of the objects I have in writing these adventures is to show how +an army officer is compelled to part with all he obtains from the +government in paying expenses incurred by endless journeys through +newly settled countries. + +But to resume our ambulance trip. As night approached the motion +ceased, and I doubt if mortal was ever more amazed than I when told +we were to go no farther. Not a sign of habitation was in sight! +Nothing but broad plains surrounded us on all sides! Not even a tree +could be seen, and the four mules had to be hitched to our ambulance +wheels, as tiny bushes were not, of course, available for such a +purpose. A fire was made of grease-wood, a piece of bacon broiled on +the coals, and a huge pot of coffee served in quart tin cups, which +is the only way soldiers condescend to drink it, as no less amount +will suffice, coffee being their greatest solace on long marches. + +That, my first real experience in camping out, was indeed novel. The +knowledge that except one tiny dot in the wilderness—our ambulance—we +had no resting-place, gave me a curiously homeless feeling that was +indeed cheerless. + +When, a little later, we sought our couch, it proved to be anything +but downy. My trunk and the forage had been taken out, and the seats, +always made as in a sleeping-car so that the backs let down, formed +the bed. It was not, however, altogether uncomfortable, as we had +plenty of blankets. + +Soon after falling asleep I was awakened by what seemed to be a +complete upheaval of our couch. I was thoroughly terrified and +prepared for almost anything; but examination showed that our alarm +was caused by one of the mules, that had worked his way under +our ambulance, and in attempting to rise had almost upset it. A +readjustment of the lines by which a mule was tied to each wheel +somewhat reassured me; but those playful attempts to either upset or +drag our extemporized couch in any direction in which the mules felt +inclined to go, resulted in our passing a restless night. Sometimes +one mule would be seized with an ambitious desire to break away; +this would rouse the other three, who would each in turn attempt +to stampede, and but for the driver’s timely assistance it is +difficult to state what might have happened, as our vehicle was not +sufficiently strong to withstand such violent wrenches. + +When morning dawned we resumed our march, and great was my joy on +learning that we would have four walls around us during the two +succeeding nights. I was, however, rather startled to find myself +disturbing so many that evening, for when we reached the little log +hut that was to shelter us, it proved to be, though but eighteen +feet square, the abode of ten men. In all the log cabins at which +we stopped a bed occupied one corner of their only room. Those beds +were, of course, only rough bunks of unplaned pine timber; but by +reason of being raised above the mud floors formed very desirable +resting-places. + +The almost chivalrous kindness of frontiersmen has become proverbial +with women who have traveled alone in the far West, where the +presence of any member of the sex is so rare the sight of one seems +to remind each man that he once had a mother, and no attention +which can be shown is ever too great. When, therefore, our hosts +saw my reluctance to deprive them of what must have been occupied +by at least two of their number, they assured me I would confer a +favor by accepting the proffered hospitality. Although shrinking +from the proximity of so many men, yet remembering my shaky bed of +the previous night, I was glad to find refuge behind the improvised +curtains which they deftly arranged. + +It seemed indeed odd on this and succeeding nights to see huge, +stalwart men preparing food, baking the inevitable biscuits in Dutch +ovens over the coals in open fireplaces, and being so well pleased if +we seemed to enjoy what was placed before us. + +Our next day’s journey was diversified by the discovery that our +vehicle was like the famous one-horse shay, likely to drop in pieces; +indeed, we had twice to send back several miles for the tires, +which had parted company with their wheels. Such a condition of our +conveyance, coupled with several other mishaps, led us to feel very +dubious as to our destination being eventually reached in safety. + +On arriving at the cabin in which our third night was to be passed, +we found it occupied by fifteen men. As usual, we were ensconced +in the only bed. I tried to feel doubly protected, instead of +embarrassed, by the vicinity of so many men; nor did I consider it +necessary to peer about in an effort to learn how they disposed of +themselves. I well knew it was too cold to admit of any sleeping +outside. Being startled by some noise in the night, I drew back the +curtains, and looked on a scene not soon to be forgotten. Not only +were the men ranged in rows before us, but the number of sleepers had +been augmented by at least six dogs, which had crept in for shelter +from what I found in the morning was a severe snow-storm, that +covered the ground to the depth of ten inches or more. + +On the last day of that long journey I arose, feeling particularly +happy at the prospect of soon reaching our destination; and even the +sight of snow did not disconcert me, as I reasoned that we were to +ride in a covered vehicle, and with only twenty miles to traverse had +nothing to fear. + +Though all might have gone well had our ambulance been strong, +but two miles of the distance had been covered when we sank in an +enormous snow-drift. Our mules had wandered from the road into a deep +gully, and in trying to pull us out succeeded in extricating only the +front wheels of the wagon, so farther progress in that vehicle was +quite impossible. Nothing could be done except call upon our friends +of the past night for assistance, which they promptly rendered, +sending us their only wagon—an open, springless one—which seemed so +exposed they begged me to return to the cabin. But my anxiety to +reach our journey’s end was by that time so great I would have tried +to walk could no other mode of procedure have been found. + +So, seated in the very center of the wagon, with as much protection +as our blankets could afford, we rode the remaining eighteen miles, +snow falling continually and rendering it impossible to distinguish +the road. Travel under such conditions, and especially in a +springless conveyance, made our previous jaunt over mountains fade +into insignificance. + +The day seemed endless; and though at first I kept shaking off the +snow, yet when we reached our destination, after riding for twelve +long hours, I had become so worn and weary as to no longer care, and +was almost buried beneath it. + +It is always the last straw which breaks the camel’s back, and that, +the last day of our journey, was the first on which I had felt +discouraged; in spite of constant efforts I finally succumbed to our +doleful surroundings, and in tears was lifted out and carried into +what proved to be my home for the next year. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + +When courage to look around had at last been mustered, I found +that my new home was formed of two wall tents pitched together so +the inner one could be used as a sleeping and the outer one as a +sitting room. A calico curtain divided them, and a carpet made of +barley sacks covered the floor. In my weary state of mind and body +the effect produced was far from pleasant. The wall tents were only +eight feet square, and when windowless and doorless except for one +entrance, as were those, they seemed from the inside much like a +prison. + +As I lay in bed that night, feeling decidedly homesick, familiar +airs, played upon a very good piano, suddenly sounded in my ears. +It seemed impossible that there could be a fine musical instrument +such a distance from civilization, particularly when I remembered +the roads over which we had come, and the cluster of tents that +alone represented human habitation. The piano, which I soon learned +belonged to our captain’s wife, added greatly to her happiness, +and also to the pleasure of us all, though its first strains only +intensified my homesick longings. + +This lady and myself were the only women at the post, which +also included, besides our respective husbands, the doctor and +an unmarried first lieutenant. The latter, as quartermaster and +commissary, controlled all supplies, and could make us either +comfortable or the reverse, as he chose. + +Shortly afterward another company of soldiers, embracing one married +officer and two unmarried ones, joined us; but at first our troop of +cavalry was all. The men, instead of living in tents, were quartered +in dugouts, which, as their name implies, were holes dug in the +ground, warm enough, but to my unaccustomed eyes places in which only +animals should have been sheltered, so forbidding and dingy did they +seem. The soldiers were not, however, destined to spend the summer in +such accommodations, for by that time very comfortable barracks had +been erected. + +As everything in the life I then led was new and strange, and +surroundings have always powerfully influenced me, I took note +of many things which it seemed should have been remedied. One +which greatly troubled me was the power extremely young officers +exercised over enlisted men. If the latter were in the least unruly, +most fearful punishment awaited them, which in my opinion was not +commensurate with the offense, but depended entirely upon the mercy +and justice of the offender’s superior officer, who usually but a boy +himself had most rigid ideas of discipline. + +I have always noticed how years temper judgment with any one in +authority, and thus have come to believe that no very young man +is capable of wielding it. Situated as we were in tents, so the +slightest sound could be heard, we were made aware of all that +transpired outside. When an enlisted man transgressed some rule and +was severely punished, I always became frantic, for his outcries +reached my ears, and I recognized the injustice and impropriety of +some mere boy exercising cruel authority over any man old enough to +be his father. + +Methods have completely changed in the army since that time, and I am +glad to state that for many years past such scenes as then wrung my +heart have been unknown; but in those days our military organization +was so crude many things were permitted which are now scarcely +remembered by any one. Our soldiers, recruited from the Pacific +coast, then famous for the demoralized state of its poorer classes, +were indeed in need of firm discipline; but it required men with more +experience than those young officers possessed to wield it. + +I always have had, and always shall have, a tender, sympathetic +feeling for American soldiers. In fact, most of the kindly help which +made life on the frontier endurable to me came from those men. We +were never able to procure domestic help; it was simply out of the +question, and for years it would have been necessary for me either to +have cooked or starved but for their ever-ready service. + +To cook in a modern kitchen, or even in an ancient one, is not so +dreadful; but to cook amid the discomforts and inconveniences which +surrounded me for many years would have been impossible to any +delicately nurtured woman. I recall the delight with which an offer +of help from a soldier in that, my first effort at housekeeping, +was welcomed. Although I soon became the slave of my cook’s whims, +because of my utter inexperience and ignorance, yet his forethought +when the floor was soaked with rain in always having a large adobe +brick heated ready to be placed under my feet when dining, will never +be forgotten. + +The greatest proof of devotion I ever received was when that man, +learning that the laundress declined longer employing her services in +our behalf, saw me preparing to essay the task myself. To prevent +that he rose sufficiently early to do the work, and continued the +practice so long as we remained there, despite the fact that it +subjected him to ridicule from other soldiers; and so sensitive +was he in regard to the subject that I never unexpectedly entered +the kitchen while he was ironing without noticing his endeavors to +hastily remove all trace of such occupation. + +As the season was severe—the thermometer during that and the +succeeding winter frequently fell to thirty-three degrees below +zero—a large stove had been placed in the outer tent, and a huge +fireplace built in the inner one. A large pine bunk, forming a +double bed, occupied nearly all the spare space, and left only just +room enough in front of the fire to seat one’s self, and also to +accommodate the tiniest shelf for toilet purposes. It therefore +required constant watchfulness to avoid setting one’s clothing on +fire; and among other ludicrous occurrences was the following: + +In our inability to find suitable places for necessary articles, we +were apt to use most inappropriate ones. On the occasion referred +to, a lighted candle had been placed on the bed, where my husband +seated himself without noticing the candle. Soon arose the accustomed +smell of burning, and I executed my usual maneuver of turning about +in front of the fire to see if my draperies had caught. The odor of +burning continued to increase, yet I could find no occasion for it. + +The cause, however, was discovered when I leaned over the bed, and +saw that a large hole had been burned in the center of Mr. Boyd’s +only uniform coat. He had been too intent on shielding me to be +conscious of his own peril. It was an accident much to be regretted, +for our isolation was so complete that any loss, however trifling, +seemed irreparable by reason of our remoteness from supplies. A +lengthened account of our difficulties in procuring needed articles +during this and many subsequent years would seem incredible. + +I had been delighted to purchase, at the stage station where we +stopped previous to our one hundred miles’ ambulance trip, and for +exactly the amount of one month’s pay, a modest supply of dishes and +cooking utensils. Prior to their arrival we were happy to obtain our +meals at the house of the quartermaster’s clerk; yet I looked eagerly +forward to my first attempt at housekeeping, and daily sought to +induce our quartermaster to send for the goods. At last he informed +us that they were on the way, and then began tiresome efforts to have +some sort of kitchen and dining-room prepared. + +All my entreaties resulted only in a number of willows being stuck +in the ground and covered with barley sacking. Even the door was +composed of two upright and two cross pieces of willow covered with +sacking; a simple piece of leather, which when caught on a nail +served as fastening and handle, was deemed sufficient guard. The +floor was primitive ground, and in time, as it became hardened by +our feet, was smooth except where the water from above wore it into +hollows. No efforts of mine could ever induce the powers that were +to cover the roof so as to exclude rain. At first some old canvas +was simply stretched over it; but as the roof was nearly flat this +soon had to be replaced. By degrees, as cattle were killed for the +soldiers, we used the skins which were otherwise valueless, lapping +them as much as possible. However, they formed no effectual barrier +to melting snow or falling rain, as later experience proved, when it +became only an ordinary occurrence for me to change my seat half a +dozen times during one meal. + +Young people are not easily discouraged, and I was very happy when +informed that our housekeeping goods had arrived and been placed +in the quarters prepared for them. An ominous sound which greeted +our ears as we opened the boxes rather dismayed us; but we were not +prepared for the utter ruin that met our eyes. What had not been +so brittle as to break, had been rendered useless and unsightly by +having been chipped or cracked; and as we took out the last piece +of broken ware I concluded that what was left might be sold in New +York for a dollar. On comparing the residue with the inventory, we +discovered that half the goods were missing. + +The articles had been bought from an army officer who was changing +stations, and were not strictly what I should have chosen. +Everything, however, was useful there, and I was rather pleased that +we had duplicates of nearly every article, although results showed +that this had tempted the freighters’ cupidity, and they had fitted +themselves out with the primary supply; so when by breakages the +secondary disappeared, we had really nothing of any consequence left. +Bitterness was added to sorrow, when of a dozen tumblers only the +_débris_ of six were found. The common kitchen ware was too solid to +be shattered, but everything at all fragile was in fragments. + +The triumph with which we evolved from the chaos a large wash-bowl +and pitcher, which though in close proximity to a pair of flat-irons +had escaped injury, was equaled only by our chagrin when we found +our little toilet shelf too small to hold them, and were therefore +obliged to return to a primitive tin basin, though hoping in time for +enough lumber to build accommodations which would allow us the luxury +of white ware. + +I regret to state that the climate proved too much for our large +pitcher. One morning we found it cracked from the cold to which it +had been exposed in the out-door kitchen, in which we were obliged +to keep it. Our basin was cherished; but on the anniversary of our +wedding-day I nearly sank from mortification when Mr. Boyd came +into our tent, which was filled with friends who had gathered to +celebrate the occasion, carrying the wash-bowl full of very strong +punch which he had concocted. No thought of apologizing for our lack +of delicacies occurred to me, but I felt compelled to explain, in the +most vehement fashion, that the wash-bowl had never been utilized +for its obvious purpose; in fact, this was the first period of its +usefulness. + +My housekeeping was simplified by absolute lack of materials. I had, +as a basis of supplies, during that and the succeeding two years, +nothing but soldiers’ rations, which consisted entirely of bacon, +flour, beans, coffee, tea, rice, sugar, soap, and condiments. Our +only luxury was dried apples, and with these I experimented in every +imaginable way until toward the last my efforts to disguise them +utterly failed, and we returned to our simple rations. I was unable +to ring any changes on rice, for after Mr. Boyd’s experience with +General Burnside’s expedition off Cape Hatteras, the very sight of it +had become disagreeable to him. + +We had at that time no trader’s store within two miles, which was a +matter of congratulation, for when we indulged our desire for any +change of fare, however slight, we felt as if eating gold. Nothing +on the Pacific coast could be paid for in greenbacks; only gold and +silver were used; and when an officer’s pay, received in greenbacks, +was converted into gold, a premium of fifty per cent always had to be +paid. That, added to frontier prices, kept us poor and hungry for +years. If we indulged in a dozen eggs the price was two dollars in +gold. If we wanted the simplest kind of canned goods to relieve the +monotony of our diet, the equivalent was a dollar in gold. + +I had always disliked to offend any one; but remarking one day that +the flavor of wild onions which permeated the only butter we could +procure, and for which we paid two dollars and a half a pound, was +not exactly to our taste, seriously offended the person who made it. +I quite rejoiced thereat when she refused to supply us with any more, +feeling that a lasting economy had been achieved without any great +self-denial. The taint of numerous kinds of wild herbs of all sorts, +during the many years of my frontier life, always made both beef and +milk as well as butter unpalatable, especially in the early spring +season, and in Texas, where the flavor was abominable. + +There were so many motives for economy that we rejoiced continually +at our inability to procure supplies. First should be named the +fact that a lieutenant’s pay, exceedingly small at best, was, when +converted into gold, just eighty dollars per month. That reality was +augmented by an utter inequality in the cost of actual necessaries. +We found, for instance, that we must have at least two stoves—one +for cooking and the other for heating purposes. Their combined +cost was one hundred and seventy-five dollars, although both could +have been bought in New York for about twenty dollars. If we ever +rebelled against such seeming impositions, the cost of freight would +be alluded to; and remembering what the expenses of my poor solitary +trip had been we were effectually silenced. + +Among the many amusing stories told on that subject, none was +more frequently quoted in every frontier station than the retort +of a Hebrew trader, who, when expostulated with on account of the +exorbitant charge of a dollar for a paper of needles, vehemently +replied: + +“Oh, it is not de cost of de needles! It is de freight, de freight!” + +So when obliged to purchase any article we counted its cost as +compared with the freight as one to one hundred. + +Shortly after we reached Camp Halleck, a team was sent to Austin for +supplies; and being sadly in need of chairs it was decided that if we +ordered the very strongest and ugliest kitchen ones they would escape +injury, and be cheap. The bill was received before the team returned, +and to our dismay we found that the six chairs cost just six dollars +each in gold, or fifty dollars in greenbacks. We tried to hope they +would be so nice that the price would prove of slight consequence. +But lo! the teamster brought but one chair, and that a common, black, +old-fashioned kitchen one. + +When asked about the other five, the man replied that the roads were +so bad, our chairs, having been placed on top of the load, were +continually falling under the wheels, and finally, broken in pieces, +had been left to their fate. We, however, suspected that they had +served as firewood. We frequently joked, after the first pangs had +worn away, over our fifty-dollar chair, claiming a great favor was +bestowed upon any one allowed to occupy it. + +Reading matter was our only luxury, and the weekly mail, always an +uncertainty, was just as apt to have been lightened of its contents +in transit, if the roads were at all heavy, as any other package. We +were never sure, therefore, that we should be able to understand the +next chapters in serial stories, which were our delight. + +I remember being very much engrossed in one of Charles Reade’s +novels, the heroine of which was cast on a desert island, where I +thought only her lover’s presence could reconcile her to the absence +of supplies. The story was published in _Every Saturday_, and at +first came weekly; but after we had become most deeply interested +five weeks passed during which not a single number was received, and +we were left to imagine the sequel. + +Several periodicals of a more solid nature always came regularly, +which fact constrained us to believe that we were furnishing light +literature to the poor inhabitants of some lonely stage station on +the road; and in that belief we tried to find consolation for our +own losses. Rumors of the outside world grow dim in such an isolated +life: we were unwilling to become rusty, and hence read with avidity +all printed matter that reached us. + +There were, however, other diversions. I learned to play cribbage +admirably; and as my husband was able to give me a good deal of his +time we found it a pleasant pastime. The winter seemed well-nigh +interminable, and we longed for snow to disappear, intending then to +explore the whole country. I was such a novice in the saddle that +the steadiest old horse, called “Honest John,” was chosen for me; +and by the time pleasant weather had come I was ready to ride in any +direction, having learned that my steed was all his name implied. + +We found the streams, so small and insignificant during the dry +season, enlarged by melting snows from the mountains; and they were +not only beautiful, as clear running water ever is, but were filled +with the most delicious spotted trout, which on our fishing-trips we +caught and cooked on the spot, and whose excellence as food simply +beggars description. + +Though the country remained almost as dreary as in mid-winter, grass +made some improvement. The lovely wild-flowers, in endless beauty +and variety, were a ceaseless delight; while our camp, situated on +a lovely little stream in a grove of cottonwood-trees, was far more +beautiful than I had ever imagined it could be. + +Unfortunately there were no trees to cast their shade over our tents; +and as in mid-winter we had suffered from intense cold, so in summer +we suffered from intense heat. The sun penetrated the thin canvas +overhead to such an extent that my face was burned as if I had been +continually out-of-doors, or even more so, as its reflected glare +was most excessive. Then we were almost devoured by gnats so small +that netting was no protection against them. I had never before, nor +have I ever since, seen any insect in such quantities, nor any so +troublesome and annoying. + +In after-years I became accustomed to the most venomous creatures +of all sorts, and in time learned not to mind any of them; but +while in Nevada I endured tortures from a colony of wasps that took +possession of the canvas over the ridge-poles which connected the +uprights of our tents. At first we scarcely noticed them; but they +must either have multiplied incredibly, or else gathered recruits +from all directions, for soon they swarmed in countless numbers above +our heads, going in and out through the knot-holes in our rough pine +door, buzzing about angrily whenever we entered hastily—in fact, +disputing possession with us to such a degree that I dared not open +the door quickly. Whenever I did, one of the angry insects was sure +to meet and sting me. They remained with us during the summer, and +when we finally left were masters of the field by reason of their +superior numbers. + +I have often since wondered why we did not dispossess them by some +means, as they were the terror of my life. One day while in the inner +tent, where I felt safe, dressing for breakfast, I experienced the +most intense sting on my ankle. The pain was so great I screamed, +doubly frightened because confident a rattlesnake had bitten me, and +too terrified to exercise any self-control. My cries soon brought +a dozen or more persons to the scene, who found a wretched wasp, +and calmed my fears; but my nerves had been terribly shaken. Since +then I have met army ladies who live in constant terror of snakes, +tarantulas, and scorpions; though no longer sharing their fears, I +always sympathize with them. + +I soon became an expert fisher; and the dainty food thus procured was +a great addition to our supplies. With all its drawbacks, life in the +open air then began to have many charms for me. + +We made friends with the neighboring ranchmen, particularly those who +were married, as their wives interested us greatly, they were such +perfect specimens of frontier women. At first the rancheros were a +little shy, but soon made us welcome to their homes and festivities, +where we were always urged to remain as long as possible. Gradually +new arrivals—always called “sister” or “cousin”—appeared at several +of the ranches, and soon a rumor gained ground that though not +exactly in Utah, the Mormon religion prevailed to some extent in our +locality. + +Another source of great interest was the Piute and Shoshone Indians, +who were so numerous that I soon regarded red men as fearlessly +as if I had been accustomed to them all my life. They were deeply +interested in us, at times inconveniently so; for they never timed +their visits, but always came to stay, and would frequently spend the +entire day watching our movements. + +In one of their camps, several miles away, I found a beautiful +dark-eyed baby boy, to whom I paid frequent visits, which were at +first well received. But one day I carried the child a neat little +dress—my own handiwork—and before arraying baby in it gave him a +bath, which evidently caused his mother to decide that I had sinister +designs upon her prize, for on my subsequent visits no trace of the +baby could ever be found. Had his sex been different I probably could +have obtained complete possession; but boys are highly prized among +the Indians. + +We considered ourselves well repaid for a ride of twenty miles by +an Indian dance. It was, of course, only picturesque at night, when +seen by the light of huge fires; then, indeed, the sight was weird +and strange! On such an occasion, when depicting so perfectly their +warfare, the Indians seemed to return to their original savage +natures. Had it not been for our fully armed escort we might have +feared for safety. + +It was startling to see the Indians slowly circle around their +camp-fire, at first keeping time to a very slow, monotonous chant, +which by degrees increased in volume and rapidity, until finally +their movements became fast and furious, when savagery would be +written in every line of their implacable countenances. I could +then realize in some degree how little mercy would be shown us +should they once become inimical; but seeing them at all times so +thoroughly friendly made it difficult to think of them as otherwise; +and therefore, when we afterwards lived among the most savage tribes, +I never experienced that dread which has made life so hard for many +army ladies. + +With the advent of early spring active preparations were made to +build houses for the officers before the ensuing winter. We watched +their slow progress, hoping against hope that we might occupy one +of the cozy little dwellings. All sorts of difficulties, however, +seemed to delay their construction, for good workmen were as scarce +as good food, and we found that while anticipation and expectation +were pleasing fancies, realization was but a dream. All our hopes +were doomed to disappointment, for we finally left the post on the +following January, just one year after my arrival, with the house +we had longed to occupy still unfinished; thus I passed half of the +second winter in our two small tents. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + +Meantime much had happened to make that year an eventful one. My +expectation of finding the new, untried world into which I was +ushered a place where all were ready to meet me with open hearts and +hands had been completely shattered. The captain who commanded our +company, and the first lieutenant, had taken a violent dislike to +Mr. Boyd because he was unaccustomed to the lack of discipline they +allowed; and their almost unlimited powers enabled them to deprive us +of much to which we were justly entitled. + +They were two of the most illiterate men whom I have ever met; and +shortly after, when the army consolidated, both found more fitting +occupation in a frontier mining-town. I mention this only to account +for the unnecessary hardships to which we were subjected. For +instance, when gardens were planted, and the company was raising fine +vegetables, we were allowed neither to buy nor to use any, and had to +continue to live on rations. + +But the most unkind treatment of all was shown when my husband +met with a severe accident. He was returning from a successful +fishing-trip when his horse—and a more unruly mustang cannot well +be imagined—fancied some cause for fright, and began to buck on the +side of a steep hill. Mr. Boyd, deeming discretion the better part +of valor, jumped off, and fell with his entire weight upon one leg, +fracturing it just below the knee. His companion decided to ride into +camp, a distance of six miles, for assistance, and a litter was at +once sent out. My husband lay there alone, helpless and suffering, +until long after dark, the coyotes, or small wolves, coming around in +droves, and it was with the greatest difficulty he kept them off by +the use of both gun and pistol. + +When he was brought into camp late at night, my first remark was +that I derived some comfort from the situation, inasmuch as he would +not be compelled to join an expedition which had been for some time +projected. Mr. Boyd was to have been sent with an escort of twenty +men on a surveying party. That would have kept him in the field all +summer, and left me entirely alone. + +The officer in command displayed his malevolence by sending with +the expedition the soldier who had volunteered to wait on us, thus +leaving me without the slightest assistance in caring for my husband. +The doctor was exceedingly kind and good, and I could obtain my meals +where we had on my first arrival; but I was obliged to carry Mr. +Boyd’s food quite a long distance, and perform every sort of hard, +menial labor—even chopping wood; for nights, lying unable to move, my +husband would become chilly and need a fire. + +Many other hardships were entailed, and I was quite worn out with +working and nursing, when, in a month’s time, Mr. Boyd was able to +walk on crutches. However, the accident had given me his society for +the entire summer, at which I rejoiced exceedingly; for I had often +wondered what I should do if left alone, friendless as I felt myself +to be. + +At that time the whole army was in a chaotic state, especially on +the Pacific coast, where California volunteers, though brave and +hardy men, were totally unaccustomed to military discipline, and the +officers not of a character to enforce it. The wild lawlessness which +had made California a place of terror, and that had only been subdued +by the vigilance committee, was still extant, and many occurrences +during our first year of army life showed there were desperadoes +among us. + +Had the officers in command been gentlemen, at least a semblance of +respect would have been shown; but the enlisted men, treated by their +officers exactly as they had been while both were volunteers, were +disposed to dislike a man who after four years of rigid training at +West Point had grown accustomed to discipline and was disposed to +exact it. + +The first duty which called my husband from home was an expedition +after some horses that had been sent to Camp McDermott, a distance of +about two hundred miles. He took with him ten men, and experienced +very little difficulty in managing them while going; but returning, +with twenty extra horses, the soldiers were in a lawless state, +disposed to be unruly, and would become intoxicated whenever liquor +could be had. Despite the fact that water was obtainable only at +the stations _en route_, Mr. Boyd made a practice of procuring in +casks all that would be needed, and marching a few miles beyond the +stations, so as to prevent liquor being obtained; for in all those +places, although water might be scarce, a barrel of the vilest whisky +could always be found. + +The plan worked well for the first hundred miles; but one night the +men stole back to the station and insisted that liquor be given +them. Mr. Boyd always warned station-masters of the extreme danger +of allowing his men to have whisky, as with so many horses the +services of all were required; but that day some had been procured +from an unknown source, and they were determined to have more. The +station-master refused to furnish it, and barricaded his door so that +no one could enter. + +The men were infuriated; and just as my husband arrived on the scene +one of them rushed madly against the door and forced it open, only +to be met by a ball from a pistol fired by some one inside the room, +which killed him instantly. That sobered the rest, who obeyed the +order given to carry their dead comrade back to the encampment. +Fearing further disturbance my husband broke camp and traveled till +daylight, when finding the already over-loaded wagon much encumbered +by the dead body, which had repeatedly slipped off, he stopped and +buried it by the roadside. After that he had no trouble, as the men +were completely subdued. + +On their return to camp the entire story was related to me; and +knowing how great Mr. Boyd’s anxiety had been, I fully expected he +would be commended, if not rewarded. Instead of that he was actually +called to account, principally for burying the dead soldier by the +roadside, which the commanding officer seemed to consider wrong, when +to have traveled so many days with the body uncoffined would have +been quite impossible. + +I was highly diverted by the efforts my husband made to procure +presents for me, and shall never forget the peculiarity of his gifts. +In passing through Austin at one time he endeavored to buy fruit, as +we missed it greatly, and deemed a box of apples at only one dollar a +dozen a marvelous bargain, as three dollars had been paid for those +previously purchased. + +On another occasion Mr. Boyd had yielded to the temptation to buy a +sewing-machine, which he thought would please me very much, as indeed +it would had I been able to use it; but the machine was entirely out +of order and represented nothing in the way of usefulness, unless a +month’s pay which it had cost might be so considered. + +Another present was of a more noisy sort. Knowing that I had never +seen a “burro,” Mr. Boyd was induced to buy one for me because it was +cheap and so docile a child might ride it. The latter it certainly +proved to be; but living in tents, where every sound penetrated to +our ears, the animal became a perpetual nuisance; consequently, when +one day he strayed away, never to reappear, we were not sorry. + +The brute was indeed small, but his voice was a marvel of strength +and volume, and his bray resounded on all sides at the most +inopportune moments. If military orders were being read, “Burro” +kept up an accompaniment which drowned all other sounds; and in his +apparent loneliness, the poor fellow had a way of seeking human +companionship, and would appear at our doorstep and lift up his voice +in a manner that made us feel the roof must rise above our heads in +order to allow the fearful sound to escape. He afforded us a great +deal of amusement, however, and all his antics were laughed at and +condoned. + +About that time another troop of the regiment was sent from Idaho, +and we then enjoyed the society of a very charming New York woman, +who accompanied her husband, and the fittings of whose tent amused +us much. This lady had a large private fortune, yet she had not been +with us a month before, resigning herself to the inevitable, she +bent weekly over the wash-tub and ironing-board, as help was not +procurable; nor did this officer’s wife find a treasure of a soldier, +as I had, who would volunteer to relieve her of such unaccustomed +drudgery. + +Deciding that her tent would present a more cheerful appearance if +papered, all newspapers received were, immediately after being read, +pasted on the walls. A preference was given to illustrated journals, +and it was very diverting to inspect those pictures which reflected +many scenes of our former lives. How often the wish was expressed +that we could be as well sheltered as were the servants in city +homes, and my friend frequently longed for as good a roof overhead as +had her mother’s barn. A year of such hardships sufficed; at the end +of that time her husband resigned his commission, and for many years +they have been quartered in New York City. + +As the second winter of our camp life approached, we prepared in a +measure for it by procuring a larger heating stove; but the stove +took up a great deal of room in our little tent, and so was crowded +into a corner, with the result of constant danger from fire. I +attempted to keep account of the number of times our tent had ignited +and been patched to cover the burned places. Mr. Boyd usually built +a fire very early, before going to his duties, and on one memorable +morning the entire top of our sitting-room tent burned away, leaving +it quite uncovered. + +My anxiety to live in a house was so great that I calmly deliberated +whether or not to call for assistance; but second thoughts concerning +the probable destruction of our belongings, and the absurdity of +expecting a house to immediately erect itself for our benefit, +decided me. I had really grown inured to fire, as one would +naturally become who was exempt from all personal danger; for if the +canvas had burned away, open air and sky would have surrounded us. + +During all those months work had been actively prosecuted on the +Union Pacific Railroad; and as it was to approach us very closely, +we felt that not only would personal benefit result therefrom, but +it would bring an influx of inhabitants into the country which +must promote its prosperity through opening mines, irrigating and +cultivating arable land, and so forth. The latter, however, became +problematical, as it was found impossible to procure other labor +than Chinese on the railroad. The class of settlers who occasionally +appeared were of a restless, nomadic sort; and if they located on a +plot of land soon tired of the industry required to make of the place +a home. + +The chief result of the increased population was most noticeable in +the number of accidents which occurred both on the railroad and in +our neighborhood. The post doctor’s services were in almost daily +requisition; and as our hospital was also a tent, and many of the +injured were carried there, my soul was harrowed by the cries of +wounded men which could not be stifled in that clear atmosphere with +nothing but canvas intervening. + +One of the young officers who knew my terror on that score, delighted +in giving me exaggerated accounts of their sufferings, and used to +relate the most remarkable cases, which I fully believed at the time, +though later his deceit and exaggeration were discovered. It seemed +to me that the frontier at best was a place where suffering prevailed +to a degree not commensurate with the number of inhabitants. + +We were very near the “white pine region,” where an immense silver +mine created great excitement, the novelty of which pleased us almost +as much as if we were to share in the material benefits thereof. + +Mr. Boyd’s promotion to a first lieutenantcy, which had been +expected for many months, was at that time received, and we hoped +the railroad would enable us to make the journey consequent upon +such promotion in greater comfort than had been possible on our +previous one. Alas! how bitterly we deplored the unalterable fact so +common in army life, that after having endured severe hardships, and +watched the advent of brighter days, as promised by the approach of a +railroad and the completion of officers’ quarters, we were compelled +to leave for distant Arizona without sharing in any of the advantages +which would naturally follow. + +My husband’s promotion transferred him to a company of the regiment +stationed at Prescott, Arizona Territory. We had first to reach San +Francisco, go from thence by sea to Southern California, and then +across into Arizona. One beautiful morning, just a year from the +time of my arrival, we started for California. We were glad to be +able, instead of having to endure the discomforts of a stage-ride, +to strike the railroad twelve miles from Camp Halleck. The road had +reached that point only a few days before, and the rails having been +newly laid none but construction trains had passed over it. + +We were obliged to wait for a car until the next morning, when a +hospitable welcome was given us by the engineer in charge, who with +his wife and family occupied the construction train, and seemed most +comfortable in their movable home. They had every needful arrangement +to make them so, for the cars, two in number, were roomy as possible. +The first car was divided into an admirable kitchen and dining-room, +which were presided over by a Chinese cook; the second into sitting +and bedrooms so arranged that they were cozy and comfortable. + +Our only fear was of the possibly infested atmosphere, for we +were told that smallpox had broken out among the Chinese railroad +employees, and was prevailing to an alarming extent. A delightful day +and night were, however, passed with our new friends, who shared with +us their sleeping accommodations, Mr. Boyd rooming with the engineer +and I with his wife. At nine o’clock next morning we left them, +feeling very grateful for the kindness received. + +Our gratitude was in no wise lessened, though our fears were +increased, when the following day a telegram overtook us which stated +that our engineer friend had succumbed to smallpox. He recovered from +the disease perhaps sooner than we did from our panic: so great an +exposure was at a most inconvenient time, for, like Joe, we had to +“move on.” + +I was astonished to find that the car which was to take us farther +West was only the caboose or freight car of an ordinary train; and +when, having climbed into the huge side opening, the steps were taken +away, leaving us high and dry, the prospect was far from encouraging. +There was no accommodation for comfort of any sort, and only rough +benches for seats. The car, too, was filled with railroad employees, +and the atmosphere soon became intolerable. The roadbed was so new +and the jolting so alarming, I concluded a stage-ride would have +been preferable, as we could at least have seen what was before us. + +We stopped frequently, yet were so far above the ground I dared not +descend, and, in fact, there was no special occasion to do so, for +we rode until three the next morning before reaching a place where a +mouthful of food could be obtained. Having anticipated when once on +the railroad to travel so rapidly that we need make no preparations +beforehand, our ride of eighteen hours in covering less than fifty +miles was not only unexpected, but almost unendurable from hunger and +fatigue. When at three o’clock in the morning a stopping-place was at +last reached I was quite exhausted. Food and rest were found there, +and best of all a civilized sleeping-car, in which we went on to +Sacramento. + +The journey through Nevada seemed incredibly swift. As we crossed +the Sierra Nevada mountains and passed through twenty-five miles of +snow-sheds, which cut off the view just as one began to enjoy it, +I felt almost glad to have taken what had become so completely a +memory of the past—a stage-ride over those grand old mountains. + +It was wonderful to observe the marked difference in vegetation +between Nevada and California. Just as soon as we reached the Pacific +coast exquisite green verdure contrasted so favorably with Nevada’s +arid desolation as to cause one to feel as if in a veritable “land +of promise.” The refreshment to our weary eyes after a year of +absence from such scenery was a source of the greatest imaginable +pleasure. Then to cover in a few short hours the same distance which +had previously required five weary days and nights was not the least +of our many causes for gratitude. When Sacramento was reached, the +exquisite beauty of the country was so great we felt that all the +encomiums California had ever received were fully warranted. + +The next day we arrived in San Francisco, and once more felt +civilized. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + +My husband’s first duty was to report to the commanding general, +who gave him permission to remain there for two months, promising +to place him on duty in order that he might receive full pay and +allowances. That seemed a very great boon until we found the duty +consisted in Mr. Boyd’s being ordered five hundred miles away to +inspect some horses, which left me utterly lonely in a strange city. + +The place to which he was sent could be reached only by water, and +the steamers sailed weekly both going and returning, so I felt +particularly forlorn, knowing he could not be back for at least ten +days. When the first return steamer reached San Francisco without him +I was in despair, and indeed with reason. I had already found the +tender mercy of a boarding-house keeper to be all it is generally +represented. + +That night our little daughter was born, and a facetious friend +telegraphed to my husband: “Mother and child are doing well,” thus +leaving the sex to be conjectured, which caused bets to be made by +such officers as were always glad of an excuse to bet on any chance. + +But, indeed, “mother and child” were not doing well. A veritable +Sairy Gamp had taken possession of both: my own sufferings were +almost intolerable, while I felt sure the poor little baby was being +continually dosed. The nurse weighed nearly three hundred pounds, and +at night when she lay down beside me her enormous weight made such an +inclined plane of the bed that I could not keep from rolling against +her; and she snored so loudly that not only was it impossible for me +to sleep, but for any one else on the same floor. The sounds were not +at all sedative in their effects, and I spent the nights praying for +morning. + +My baby, too, was so restless that her position had to be frequently +changed; and when the nurse was awakened she treated me exactly as if +I were a naughty child, and so completely cowed me by her roughness +that I dared offer no remonstrance, but simply endured. + +Matters went on thus for several days until some of the kind ladies +in the house interfered; but not before I had been left entirely +alone the night our little one was a week old, and was found +unconscious with baby screaming so loudly that every one in the house +was aroused. + +The good old days are not so much to be deplored when we consider +that the nurse was a fair specimen of her class, and had no hesitancy +in asking forty dollars a week for the services she rendered. Now +that trained nurses are to be found everywhere, such creatures are +unknown. Instances of her cruel conduct might be multiplied, but it +is unnecessary. + +As usual I was tormented by fears on the score of expense, as all +supplies were most exorbitant in price. The increase in rank had +added only one hundred dollars a year to my husband’s pay, and +the land of fruitful abundance in which we then were was almost as +costly, so far as living expenses were concerned, as the frontier, +and under the circumstances far more so. + +After two steamers had arrived without bringing Mr. Boyd, I grew so +restless under the care of such a nurse that the determination to +discharge her was formed; yet sufficient courage to do so was not +summoned until after the arrival of my husband, five days before our +baby was three weeks old. + +We then essayed to minister to baby’s wants ourselves, and some +of the attempts were ludicrous. Having seen the nurse give the +child paregoric, once, when she cried desperately, I poured out +a teaspoonful, and while my husband held baby, tried to make her +swallow it. Had not the drug in its raw strength nearly strangled +her, we would, undoubtedly, have murdered our dear little infant. + +That was not the only experiment we tried, and looking back I pity +the poor child with all my heart. Our anxiety to improve her +appearance was so great that whatever we were advised to do was +attempted. I cut off baby’s eyelashes one day to make them grow +thicker; and when she was a little older, while we were in Arizona, +I found her father pressing that dear little nose between the prongs +of a clothespin to better its shape. She resented such treatment, and +her cries filled me with indignation, for at least my experiments had +all been painless. + +The day after Mr. Boyd’s return, notwithstanding the commanding +general’s promise that we should remain in San Francisco until May, +orders were received to proceed immediately to Arizona. It never +occurred to my husband that he should dispute the order, nor to me +that I could remain for a time in California. + +After a couple of days spent in purchasing needful supplies and +hunting the city over for a servant, we took steamer for Wilmington +in Southern California. The trip occupied two days, and as we kept +very near the coast, choppy seas made me extremely seasick and +miserable. I was so thin and pale as to excite the sympathies of +all who saw me. The doctor had said that the change would benefit +me, while, perhaps, I could not improve if left in California. +His prediction might have proved true had not the journey been so +fearfully hard. Baby was exactly three weeks old the day we reached +Los Angeles, from which place we were to start on our long interior +ride. + +Nothing can be more beautiful than were the surroundings of that +town. As we drove in from Wilmington the air was odorous with the +perfume of orange blossoms; and trees, heavy with their loads of +ripening fruits of different kinds, overshadowed our road. I have +never cared for oranges since eating those brought me still clinging +to their branches: no packed fruit can compare with such in flavor +and lusciousness. + +Having been housed so long I enjoyed to the full the flowers that +bloomed on all sides, making a perfect paradise of the spot. My +recollections of California, for I have never seen it since, are most +delightful, and I deem any one fortunate who has a settled home there. + +That part of Southern California is particularly favored, and my +recollections of the five days consumed in traveling toward the East +are among the pleasantest of my life. We stopped every night at some +ranch, where the occupants not only received us kindly, but where our +eyes could feast on glorious scenery, which combined with the liberal +creature comforts that were enjoyed, left little to be wished for. + +I longed to remain in Los Angeles; but we were obliged to hurry on +in compliance with military orders, and also for another reason. An +entire day spent in San Francisco hunting for a servant had only +resulted in procuring a Chinese boy twelve years old. No woman could +be induced to go to Arizona. First, because no church was there. +Second, and mainly, because many Indians were. + +Even the mercenary Chinese had never dreamed of passing into so +dangerous a region; and when on reaching Los Angeles my little +servant naturally exchanged confidences with those employed in the +hotel, such a tale of horrors—principally in the shape of Indian +cruelties—was told the boy, that he was terrified beyond belief, +and fairly shook with anguish and fear when informed that he must +accompany us. Evidently believing that his long queue would prove an +additional inducement for the Indians to scalp him, he was determined +to escape at all hazards. Our little servant could be kept from +running away only by locking him up; he was not released until we +were ready to step into the wagon, and a more woebegone face I have +never seen. + +It is to this day an historical fact, both in Arizona and New Mexico, +that we took the first Chinaman into those States which now swarm +with them, and where only recently they were boycotted. + +For some reason unknown to us, we were refused proper +transportation—an ambulance and four mules with driver. A small, +two-seated vehicle and span of horses had instead been provided, +which when loaded with our most needed articles presented a strange +appearance. A mattress and blankets were strapped on the back, and +over those a chair. The inside was simply crowded with an array of +articles demanded by our long journey. We had not only all necessary +clothing, but as much food in a condensed shape as could be taken; +there was no room for luxuries. Our first care was to be well armed, +as we were going among hostile Indians, a fact I could scarcely +realize; therefore our vehicle held, in addition to all else, a gun, +two pistols, and strapped overhead my husband’s two sabers, which he +required when on duty. + +Some premonition, which perhaps was the result of past experience, +made me careful to select all we might need for future as well as +present use in the way of clothing. It proved a wise precaution, for +the remainder of our baggage, including all household goods, which we +had left in the hands of freighters, was seized for their debts on +the borders of California, and not permitted to cross into Arizona +until means to liquidate the men’s obligations had been found. It +took just six months to do that, during which time we waited for our +property. + +With my usual docility in accepting advice concerning baby, I had +followed the suggestion of an army paymaster’s wife, who considered a +champagne basket the proper receptacle for an infant when traveling. +Never was advice given which proved more useful or beneficial. If +with all the other hardships of that journey I had been compelled +to hold baby day after day, not only would I have been far more +fatigued, but she far less comfortable. Cradled in that basket, the +motion of our carriage acted as a perpetual lullaby, and the little +one slept soundly all the time, waking only when progress ceased. The +basket was tightly strapped to the front seat beside my husband, who +drove, while I sat on the back one with our little Chinaman. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + +The time-honored “babes in the woods” could not have started on +their pilgrimage with more childlike simplicity than did my husband +and myself. The first five days, through the most beautiful country +imaginable, were like a pleasure trip, and little prepared us for the +hardships which followed. The roads were good, the scenery superb, +and each night we were most hospitably entertained by some kind +family. + +Besides good food and comfortable beds, considerable advice as to +the treatment of baby was thrown in gratuitously. It seemed all the +more necessary just then, for although during the entire trip our +little one slept sweetly throughout the day, no doubt lulled to rest +by the motion of the vehicle, when night came she was tortured by +that baby’s enemy—colic. As a cure, we kept adding to her coverings, +until no one could have dreamed that the tightly strapped and +blanketed basket contained a human being. Many were the comments of +surprise when the child was exhumed from her manifold wrappings. If +the custom of traveling by carriage long distances was not almost +obsolete, I should advise all young mothers to try the basket plan. +Not only was baby perfectly comfortable, but the saving of my +strength was great, and that alone enabled me to survive the journey. + +We passed the celebrated Cocomungo Ranch, with its beautiful +vineyards and delicious wines, and many other spots, then unoccupied +lands, which have since become populous towns. On the fifth day Camp +Cady, where we expected to take final leave of civilization and +enter the California desert, was reached. The camp was garrisoned by +a detachment of only twenty men, and but two could be spared as an +escort for us. Even then the wife of the officer in charge demurred, +saying: + +“Suppose the Indians should attack us? What could we do with only +eighteen men?” + +When during subsequent weeks I fully realized the dangers we were +encountering, her remark was frequently recalled. Certainly two men +were not sufficient to protect us from Indians. + +Immediately after leaving Camp Cady we descended into a small cañon, +and on emerging therefrom found ourselves dragging through deep +sand, which continued for miles and was wearisome in the extreme. +Our horses plodded along, and the monotony of desert travel was +thoroughly established. Only eighteen miles were covered that day, +yet it took ten hours, as we dared not urge the horses through such +deep sand. + +Our first encampment was a memorable one. Like all desert travelers, +we did not stop on account of having reached an oasis, but simply +because our horses could go no farther. I wondered then, as on our +previous journey, why the particular spot at which we stopped had +been selected. It always seemed to me that we might have gone on; +but that was not a common-sense view—merely an eager desire to hasten +toward home. + +I never knew why we had no tent of any kind, not even the tiny +shelter tent with which every soldier is supposed to be provided on +all journeys; I do, however, know that we had not a stitch of canvas +of any sort, and that baby was awakened every morning by the glaring +sun shining full in her face. As the sun on the desert sand is +reflective, we soon learned to dread it extremely. + +I wish it were possible to impress others with the sensation those +camps invariably produced upon me! Usually occupying as a spectator +a passive position, I sat apart and watched the blazing fire and +the figures of the men sharply defined against its light as they +prepared supper, and then, peering into the unfathomable distance +of loneliness beyond and on all sides, I indulged in all kinds of +visions, none of which were calculated to make me especially happy. + +That night, however, the men who accompanied us pretended to be +unequal to the task of making ready our slight repast, and I essayed +for the first time in my life, and under the greatest disadvantages, +to cook an entire meal. A strong wind was blowing, which drove the +smoke in my face and eyes. The more I tried to avoid this, the +more it seemed to torture me; while my utter lack of knowledge +in all culinary matters, especially when prosecuted under such +circumstances, was very trying. Baby added to my misery by screaming +with pain from her usual attack of colic. + +Want of space in our little wagon had compelled us to forego all but +the actual necessaries of life; and thus our bill of fare was limited +to bacon, hard tack, and a small supply of eggs, which, with coffee, +was our only food during that desert travel of five days. I learned +to grill bacon and make excellent coffee, but never to enjoy cooking +over a camp-fire. + +Bright and early, awakened by the sun shining full in our faces, we +started on our seventh day’s journey, which proved almost exactly +like our sixth, yet closed with a tragic incident. The horses were +our pride and glory—they were not only beautiful, but strong and +useful. Watching them as they carried us along so swiftly and safely +during the first five days had been a real pleasure, and we had +become attached to the faithful animals. + +On reaching Soda Lake at the end of our seventh day’s journey, +and second after leaving Camp Cady, we were not a little dismayed +to find that the horses were suffering quite severely from the +effects of their hard two days’ pull through the deep sand. On being +unharnessed, one immediately plunged into the lake, and in spite of +all efforts remained there. The result may be conjectured. In his +heated and exhausted condition he foundered, and to our great sorrow +had to be shot. + +That was a serious hindrance to our progress; but, fortunately, we +had with us a pack-mule laden with grain for the horses. Needless +to state he was relieved of his load, much of which we left by the +roadside; the remainder, necessary for the animals’ sustenance, was +placed in our wagon, which rendered us still more uncomfortable. It +would be difficult to tell what we did with our feet, for not an inch +of space on the bottom of the wagon was unoccupied. + +We left Soda Lake with joy, as its alkaline properties rendered the +water useless for all ordinary purposes, and a better supply was +longed for. During that entire desert journey, until the Colorado +River was reached, we had not a drop of water that could quench +thirst. Both men and animals were to be pitied. + +Our eighth day was dreadful in its manner of progress. The pack-mule, +quite unaccustomed to harness, had no idea of bearing his share of +the burden, while our beautiful little mare chafed in the company +of such an ungainly creature, and seemed so desirous to be rid of +him that she did all the pulling. For days our minds were occupied +with the problem of how to restrain her and urge on the mule. Every +effort to accomplish this only made matters worse, for it invariably +resulted in the latter breaking into a clumsy, lumbering gallop that +was very ludicrous. + +At length we left the deep sand and traveled over the most level +country imaginable. It proved, however, even more dreary, for the +ground was white as snow with alkaline deposits. As far as the eye +could reach, only an endless, white, barren plain, unrelieved by even +a scrub bush, was visible. In all my frontier life and travel I never +saw anything so utterly desolate as was that desert. + +We found, after the first day of unmatched steeds, that our little +mare must be favored or she too would die. It was therefore decided +to travel mainly at night. The ground was so hard and white that +the sun’s reflection was most dazzling. When, on the ninth day, we +encamped with only our wagon to shade us from its intense rays, I +would have given almost anything for the shelter a strip of canvas +would have afforded. Long before noon, and long after, the pitiless +sun poured down upon us, until hands and faces were blistered; even +poor little baby had to be smeared with glycerine as a preventive. + +In that manner we traveled for two days over the desert; and although +the sun’s heat was almost unendurable, yet our only safety lay in so +doing. + +We started about sundown on the ninth night, and reaching an +old disused house about midnight, prepared to camp. I had been +so tortured for several days and nights by the absence of all +shelter, that my husband readily complied with the request to place +our mattress inside those old walls. The roof had long before +disappeared: but it seemed good to be once more in any sort of +inclosure, and I lay down very composedly. My sleep was, however, +soon disturbed by the strangest sounds. I awakened to find that a +veritable carnival was being held by insects, and the uncertainty +concerning their species was anything but agreeable. Every imaginable +noise could be detected. I bore it silently as long as possible, +until confident I heard rattlesnakes, when in great fear I hugged +my baby closer, expecting our last moments had come, yet hoping to +shield her from their fangs. + +Such a night of wretchedness I hope never again to experience. All +kinds of horrible sounds terrified me to such an extent that a firm +resolve was formed never to pass another night in a place of whose +inhabitants I was unaware. I am confident that every sort of vermin +infested that old ruined house, and our subsequent perils with +visible foes gave me far less anxiety. + +Having learned to dread being a source of extra trouble to Mr. Boyd +on a journey which taxed every energy of his mind and body, I always +endured everything quietly as long as possible. That alone enabled +me to go through such a night of agony—interminable it seemed at the +time, but in reality only a few hours, for dawn soon came. + +Midday again found us on our way; and when we began to descend into +the Colorado basin, and caught sight of Fort Mojave’s adobe walls +and the muddy banks of the river, we felt as if the end of a hard +journey had at last been reached, and rejoiced exceedingly to see +friendly faces and receive a hearty welcome. Knowing that each day’s +travel was bringing us nearer home, we gladly crossed the river and +shook the dust of California from our feet. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + +Fort Mojave, at that time a mere collection of adobe buildings with +no special pretensions to comfort, stood on the eastern bank of the +Colorado River. It seemed to me, except for the extreme heat which +made it an uncomfortable sleeping-place, a very haven of rest. The +muddy river sluggishly wound its way to the gulf many miles below, +and nine months of the year the temperature of every place on its +banks was torrid. Fort Yuma, at its mouth, was noted for being a +veritable Tophet. + +A yarn illustrative of the general opinion of its climate is told of +a soldier who ventured out in the middle of a July day, and never +returned. Diligent search served only to discover a huge grease-spot +and pile of bones on the parade ground. + +Another tradition, very hackneyed to army ears, is that of a soldier +famous for his wickedness, who, having died, reappeared, and was seen +hunting for his blankets; the inference being that the warm place to +which he had been assigned was not hot enough for one accustomed to +Fort Yuma’s climate. + +All ladies who have lived there supplement these ridiculous tales +with more credible ones. It is quite true that eggs, if not gathered +as soon as laid, were sure to be roasted if the sun shone on them. +It is also a fact that those who had leisure to do so spent the +greater part of their time in the bath, and Indians would remain in +the stream for hours at a time, their heads covered with mud as a +protection from the sun’s rays. + +I soon realized that not being obliged to remain in so warm a climate +was a favor, and rejoiced greatly when once more fairly _en route_, +although the two days had been very pleasantly passed. We were +furnished with a pair of mules, so our poor little mare could be led +the remainder of the way, and we had as escort two men who were sent +into Arizona with the weekly mails. + +Our first day’s travel was pleasant; but when night came on we were +alarmed at the number of signal fires on all sides, which indicated +the near presence of hostile Indians. I shall never forget the shock +experienced when I first realized that we were in danger from such a +source. The past year had so accustomed me to Indians, that it seemed +as if all tribes were harmless; yet the constant wariness of our +escort soon convinced me of the contrary. + +The part of Arizona through which we were then passing was such an +agreeable contrast to our weary desert journey that I thoroughly +enjoyed the beautiful pine lands; and the change, as we ascended +daily into more mountainous regions, was delightful. Our second day +from Fort Mojave, and the twelfth of that long journey, however, +considerably dampened my ardor. + +The road had been rough from the start, but nothing to be compared +with what we then experienced. After a tedious ascent a long hill +was reached, seemingly miles in length, and which must be descended +amid boulders strewn all over the road. I was compelled to walk, with +baby in my arms, picking my way as best I could from one rock to +another. The time occupied in making the descent was three hours. My +fatigue can hardly be imagined. + +The wagon wheels were lashed together by ropes, which were held by +men on either side; and even then the vehicle fairly bounded onward, +each leap almost wrenching it asunder. I expected every moment to see +it lying in ruins. That such was not its fate was entirely due to the +care Mr. Boyd and the men took in guiding it safely between and over +the boulders. + +No hill I have ever since seen was like that, and no words are +adequate to give any idea of its horrors. I felt every moment as if +a single mis-step would launch my infant and self into eternity, +and wondered if I could survive the fatigue, even if successful in +placing my feet carefully enough to escape the greater danger. When +finally our little company at the foot of the hill was reached, I +sank, completely exhausted. Many days passed before I could step +without feeling the effects of that terrible scramble in mid-air. + +We had hoped to reach our destination in four days after leaving Fort +Mojave; but each day seemed longer than its predecessor, especially +as dangers increased. Our second night was spent in a military camp, +and a detachment of troops guarded the highway. I could no longer +doubt the necessity of exercising constant vigilance against hostile +foes. + +Every animal in the temporary stables had been maimed in some manner +by Indians, who would steal in under cover of darkness and shoot +whatever living thing they saw. The men were always in peril, even in +their tents; and the officer in charge did not lessen in any degree +my uneasiness when he showed me how his tent had been riddled in many +places by bullets. He was then recovering from the effects of a +wound received while pursuing Indians. + +We had breakfasted, and were about ready to start next morning, +when our attention was called to Indians’ footprints all over the +garden spot which the troops had prepared for their hoped-for supply +of vegetables. Alas for the poor people who in those days thought +to make fortunes out West! No amount of energy, perseverance, or +endurance, to say nothing of hardships bravely borne, could ward off +the cruel Indians. + +Although it may be justly said that our dealings with the red men +were the primary cause of all the suffering, yet could the hundreds +of settlers who lost their lives while endeavoring to make homes for +themselves in the West be avenged, not an Indian would be left to +tell the tale. My heart was wrung during those travels, when, every +hour of the day, we passed a pile of stones that marked a grave. +Arizona seemed to me a very burying-ground—a huge cemetery—for men +and women killed by Indians. + +In after-years I agreed perfectly with the common army belief +that attempting to settle a ranch in either Arizona or New Mexico +was simply courting an inevitable fate—death at the hands of +ruthless Indians. History was ever new in those regions, and kept +ever repeating itself. I frequently heard it said, referring to a +comparatively recent settler: + +“Well, his time will surely come.” + +Whenever a ranch was in an exceptionally isolated region, the sequel +would be accelerated. Indian horrors were every-day occurrences; +and yet I never grew accustomed to them. Long residence among those +much-abused frontiersmen taught me to feel that the early martyrs +suffered little in comparison with the constant peril in which they +lived. + +But to return to our journey and its growing dangers. A number +of soldiers escorted us through a perilous cañon outside of the +little detachment post, where, at ten o’clock, our officer friend +reluctantly bade us adieu, saying we were in great danger. Could his +post have been left with safety, he would willingly have escorted us +farther. + +We rode on, feeling indeed very anxious, and soon met a Major of +the Eighth Cavalry, who with an escort of sixteen men had been +peppered by Indians’ bullets in a cañon through which we must pass +the same day. As the escort of two men with which we left Camp Cady +had not been augmented, our feelings may be imagined. There was no +alternative; go on we must. + +I now see that we were then too young and inexperienced to realize +the dangers of our terrible position. It was, however, soon +understood, and before entering the cañon at six o’clock that evening +all warlike preparations possible under the circumstances had been +made. A civilian had joined our party at Fort Mojave, and thus there +were three outriders. The two sabres in our wagon overhead we took +down and unsheathed, so that, when thrust out on either side, there +seemed to be four weapons—at least we hoped the Indians would think +so, and unless they came very close, the dim light would favor our +deception. The gun was placed so it could be used at a moment’s +notice. I held one pistol, and Mr. Boyd the other. The soldiers, +with their bayonets bristling, looked as warlike as possible; +and altogether we relied upon what eventually saved our lives—an +appearance of strength which we in no wise possessed. + +We had been told that the Indians, at least in that region, never +attacked unless confident of victory; and we knew that unless they +were directly beside us, the appearance our wagon presented, so +covered they could not see its interior, and seemingly full of +weapons, would indicate a well-armed party of men. Instead, there +was one man, handicapped by the care of his team and the helpless +nature of his charges—a feeble woman, an infant, and a diminutive +heathen, who on perceiving the active preparations being made for +resisting what he had so feared, became literally green with terror +and altogether useless. + +The cañon was so precipitous on both sides that we seemed to be +traveling between two high walls. The rocks were of that treacherous +gray against which I had been told an Indian could so effectually +conceal himself as to seem but a part of them. The entire region +was weird and awful. The sides of the cañon towered far above us to +almost unseen heights, and as we slowly drove onward, our hearts +quivered with excitement and fear at the probability of an attack. + +We had proceeded some little distance and were feeling considerably +relieved, when suddenly a fearful Indian war-whoop arose. It was so +abrupt, and seemed such a natural outcome of our fears, that only +for repeated repetitions I could have believed it imaginary. Others, +however, quickly followed, so no doubt could be entertained of their +reality. I had only sufficient consciousness to wonder when we should +die, and how. I glanced involuntarily at our Chinese servant, who was +crouched in one corner of the wagon in a most pitiable heap, and +then at our poor little baby, bundled in many wraps and sleeping in +her basket. All were silent. No word was uttered, and no sound heard +but the lashing of the whip that urged forward our mules. Although +they fairly leaped onward, yet we seemed to crawl. Cruel death was +momentarily expected. + +At last, and it seemed ages, we were out of the cañon and on open +ground. Even then no time was lost. The mules were still hurried on. +I have often thought that, like Tennyson’s brook, we might have “gone +on forever” had not a large party of freighters soon been reached, +who were camping in front of a blazing wood fire. Their presence +gave us that sense of companionship and security so sorely needed. +We joined them; and while I sat in the blaze of their fire, Mr. Boyd +recounted our perilous ride. The conclusion was reached that we +had been spared only because apparently so well prepared to resist +attack. Any doubts which might have been entertained concerning the +presence of foes in the cañon were dispelled by what followed. + +I crawled that night under a wagon, for my nerves were too shattered +to sleep without some kind of shelter if it could be procured, and +my last waking thought was that our companions for the night would +have to pass next morning through the same dangerous cañon, their +destination being California. They started first, and one of the +superintendents—there were two in the party—foolishly disregarded +our warning and lagged behind. His mangled body was afterwards found +horribly mutilated on the very spot where we had heard the Indians’ +fearful yells. + +It was a well-known fact that the savages would lurk for days in one +place, and if disappointed by any party being too numerous or well +armed, would invariably later on destroy some careless straggler. +The freighters, having escaped such dangers again and again, would +frequently become reckless, when they were almost sure to finally +fall victims to their lack of caution. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + +Only two days were left in which to reach our destination. The +remainder of the road was level, and no further danger from Indians +need be apprehended. Our next encampment was at Willow Grove, a +lovely wooded spot where some of our own troops were stationed, and +but a short distance from what we supposed was to be our home, at +least for a time. + +At last Prescott, then a mining-town, was gained. Everything seemed +delightful. Situated among the hills, surrounded by trees, and with a +most enjoyable climate, never very hot or very cold, but bracing at +all seasons, it would indeed prove a desirable home to wanderers like +ourselves, and I fondly hoped we might remain there. + +We were warmly welcomed at the garrison, which was situated half +a mile from town. There were but three houses in the post, and all +occupied. The houses contained only three rooms each, and one of the +officers kindly relinquished his room in my favor. The ladies were +very hospitable in providing me with nourishing food, of which I was +in great need. + +Our dismay on learning that Mr. Boyd must leave the next day to join +his company, which had been sent eighty miles distant to a post +called Camp Date Creek, may be imagined. The movement was considered +only temporary, as the troop was permanently stationed at Prescott; +so, supposing that my husband might return almost immediately, it was +decided that I should remain there. + +All would have gone well had there been suitable accommodations; but +no sooner had Mr. Boyd left than the inspector-general, accompanied +by several other officers, arrived, and their baggage was placed in +the room I was occupying. There was no alternative but for me to move +into the adjoining room, an old, deserted kitchen, which had for +years past been the receptacle of miscellaneous _débris_. + +My bed had to be made on the floor between two windows, whose panes +of glass were either cracked or broken. An old stove, utterly +useless, occupied the hearth. As the nights and mornings were very +cold I tried to build a fire; but the smoke, instead of ascending, +poured into the room in volumes, and compelled me to abandon the task +as hopeless. I suffered far more from the cold there than I had while +on the march, and longed for a camp-fire. + +The kitchen was a perfect curiosity shop. Garments of every +imaginable kind, when no longer of use to their owners, had evidently +been left there. An “old clothes man” would have rejoiced at the +wealth of rubbish. I counted twenty pairs of boots and shoes, and +there were quite as many hats, coats, and nether garments. The +corners of that room were to be avoided as one would avoid the +plague. My chair, which had been brought from California, was planted +in the only clean spot—the floor’s immediate center. + +I tried to imagine myself camping out, but my surroundings were far +less agreeable than they would have been in that case, and whichever +way my eyes turned, they met unsightly objects. No one seemed to +consider the situation unpleasant, so I simply resigned myself to the +inevitable. + +After I had been living in that way for ten days, the post surgeon +came in and said: + +“Mrs. Boyd, I have observed your disagreeable plight if no one else +has, and am exceedingly sorry. I am ordered to Camp Date Creek, and +if you would like will escort you.” + +No farther words were needed. I was ready to leave immediately; and +when told of the disagreeables that would be encountered simply +laughed, I was so tired of homelessness. + +Prescott was in such a healthy location as to be a very desirable +station, while Camp Date Creek was low and malarious. The post +statistics showed that eighty per cent of the men were then suffering +from fever. The extreme heat and numerous supply of vermin were also +enlarged upon; but nothing daunted me, and I went on my way rejoicing. + +The journey was indeed very trying. The road was principally a lava +bed, and we were fearfully jolted. I disliked making trouble, and +remember riding for miles, holding on to the basket in which baby was +lying, which had been placed on the bottom of the vehicle at my feet. +To prevent the basket—precious contents and all—from slipping out +under the front seat, I was obliged to cling tightly to it, and at +the same time firmly brace myself in order to keep from being tossed +about. + +However, everything must have an end—even such a journey. I was +inexpressibly glad to find a house once more over my head, and to +receive my husband’s hearty welcome. + +Army life is uncertain in the extreme, and our detail proved no +exception to the rule. The troop was sent to Camp Date Creek for a +month, but it remained a year, until the regiment left Arizona. The +consolidation of regiments was at that time being effected. The +infantry had been reduced from forty to twenty-five regiments, which +necessitated many moves, and was the occasion for the detention there +of some troops until more infantry arrived. + +It was indeed a desolate and undesirable locality. The country was +ugly, flat, and inexpressibly dreary. The section stretching in front +of our camp was called “bad lands” (_mala pice_). The only pretty +spot at all near was a slow, sluggish stream some miles away, where +no one dared remain long for fear of malaria. + +Our only associate was the doctor, and subsequently, when a company +of infantry arrived, two officers; but for at least six months of +that year I was the only woman within at least fifty miles. I found, +too, that housekeeping was a burden; for in all the travel from north +to south, and the reverse, through Arizona, every one stopped _en +route_. Before we left I felt competent to keep a hotel if experience +was any education in the art. Even stage passengers had frequently +to be cared for, as in that region it would have been cruel, when +delays occurred, to have permitted them to have gone farther without +food. + +As usual, I had the help of a soldier; but unfortunately one who, +when he found that too much was likely to be required of him, +took refuge in intoxication; then the entire burden fell upon me. +Our little Chinese boy proved a treasure. He could wash and iron +capitally, excepting my husband’s shirts and the baby’s clothes, the +ironing of both of which came upon me. + +That year of my life was, in spite of many hardships, a very happy +one. I have often since wondered how it could have been so, for +surely no one ever lived more queerly. The houses were built of +mud-brick (adobe), which was not, as is usual, plastered either +inside or out. Being left unfinished they soon began to crumble in +the dry atmosphere, and large holes or openings formed, in which +vermin, especially centipeds, found hiding-places. The latter were +so plentiful that I have frequently counted a dozen or more crawling +in and out of the interstices. Scorpions and rattlesnakes also took +up their abode with us, and one snake of a more harmless nature +used almost daily to thrust his head through a hole in the floor. +Altogether we had plenty of such visitors. + +In faithfully recording my experiences, honesty compels me to state +that although I have encountered almost every species of noxious +and deadly vermin, from the ubiquitous rattlesnake to the deadly +vinageroon, my real trials have arisen from the simpler sorts, such +as wasps, gnats, fleas, flies, and mosquitoes, which, everywhere +prolific, are doubly so on the frontier. I think a kind Providence +must have watched over our encounters with deadly reptiles, though +nothing could save us from ordinary pests. + +Perhaps the most trying of all my experiences was when we made our +camp after dark. On those occasions we would be almost certain either +to find that our tents had been erected close beside a bed of +cacti, to fall into whenever we moved, or over an ant-heap of such +dimensions that cannot be conceived of by any one in the East. The +busy population of one of those ant-hills was among the millions; and +evidently each inhabitant felt called upon to resent our intrusion, +for soon we would be literally covered with the stinging pests. When +our little ones were the victims, as often happened, we longed to +live in a land where such creatures were unknown. + +But to return to a description of our home. The house consisted of +one long room, with a door at either end, and two windows on each +side. The room was sufficiently large to enable us to divide it by +a canvas curtain, and thus have a sitting-room and bedroom. We felt +very happy on account of having a floor other than the ground, though +it consisted only of broad, rough, unplaned planks, which had shrunk +so that the spaces between them were at least two inches in width, +and proved a trap for every little article that fell upon the floor. + +The brown, rough adobe walls were very uninviting, and centipeds +were so numerous I never dared place our bed within at least two +feet of them. The adjoining house, which was vacant, I used for a +dining-room. Our kitchen stood as far away in another direction, so +I seemed to daily walk miles in the simple routine of housekeeping +duties. + +The country was very desolate, and the dismal cry of the coyotes +at night anything but enlivening. Those animals became so bold as +actually to approach our door, and one night carried off a box of +shoe-blacking. They evidently did not care for that kind of relish, +as it was discovered next day a short distance from the house. + +We killed so many snakes that I made a collection of rattles. One +of the tales told about me was that a box of them sent to New York +was labelled “Rattlesnakes’ Rattles! Poison!” Of course that was not +true; but our lives were so monotonous we enjoyed any joke on each +other. + +I thought the last would never have been heard of my early +pronunciation of “Fort Mojave,” which it is probably needless to +state was exactly in English accord with its spelling. Probably had +I known the word was Spanish, not understanding the language, my +pronunciation would have been the same. + +I was always delighted when ladies passed through the post, and +invariably begged them to remain as long as possible. One lovely +woman, whose husband had been ordered from Southern to Northern +Arizona, only to find on reaching there that his station was to be +but twenty miles from the place he had just left, gladdened me twice +by her presence. When I expressed regret because she was obliged to +traverse the same road again during such extremely warm weather, +her assurance that she did not in the least mind it, surprised and +relieved me. + +I found Arizona even worse than Nevada, so far as supplies were +concerned. We could seldom obtain luxuries of any kind, and when +procurable they were exorbitant in price. Eggs cost two dollars and +fifty cents a dozen; butter the same per pound; chickens two dollars +and fifty cents apiece; potatoes, twenty cents per pound; kerosene +oil, five dollars a gallon, and I was told it had been as high as +fourteen dollars. Fortunately we could buy candles at government +rates. + +We were often at our wit’s ends to supply food for guests. I had five +bantam chickens, that each laid an egg daily for some time, which +we considered great cause for thankfulness. I actually learned to +concoct dainties without many of the ingredients usually supposed +necessary, and they were declared very good. + +Finally, after having been at Camp Date Creek some months, another +lady joined us, at which I rejoiced exceedingly. She proved a very +great acquisition to our army circle. + +Our mail was due once a week, but became very uncertain on account of +the Indians. Mr. Boyd was twice awakened late at night by sentries, +who reported the return of one man very badly wounded, and that +the other had been left dead, and the mail scattered all over the +country. Whenever the drums beat over the remains of any young man, +thoughts of his absent friends always came to me. Our miserable +little cemetery, out on that lonely plain, had not one grave whose +quiet occupant was more than twenty-three years of age, and none had +died a natural death. + +My husband was the busiest man imaginable. He had not only to command +his company, but was also in charge of all stores and buildings. The +quartermaster’s storehouse was a long distance off, and Mr. Boyd +was there all day long. I used to be in continual fear lest Indians +should attack him. No greater diligence could have been displayed +by any one, and no one could have worked more conscientiously or +faithfully than he did all through life. + +We feared to ride over the country on account of the Indians, and +therefore had less amusement and recreation than while in Nevada, yet +contentment shed its blessed rays about us. I was always joyful, and +ceased to wish that the hardships we were enduring might be exchanged +for even attic life if in New York. My regret on learning that we +were to leave for New Mexico was keen, although aware better quarters +were awaiting us. But I had grown to love my Arizona home, if the +walls were only rough adobe ones. In just nine months from the time +of my arrival at Date Creek, and in mid-winter, we left for our new +destination. It was with vexation of spirit that I again took up the +march. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + +As an illustration of the many delays consequent upon frontier travel +may be mentioned the receipt, just before leaving for New Mexico, +of a box that had been fourteen months _en route_, though sent by +express from New York. To recount the mishaps which had befallen it +would be tiresome; yet that was but one of many similar experiences. + +I had ordered the box in December, while at Camp Halleck, fully +expecting it would reach San Francisco by the time we did. The +contents were very valuable, and included an army overcoat intended +as a surprise for my husband, together with many other useful and +needed additions to our wardrobe. + +It was shipped by my brother, who mailed at the same time two bills +of lading. The box arrived safely by sea, but the mail, which was +sent overland, was snowbound on the Union Pacific, and consequently +our letters were delayed. Knowing my brother’s habitual promptness, +I haunted the express office in San Francisco, only to be told again +and again that no such box was there. We therefore started for +Arizona without it. On our arrival, letters and the two bills of +lading were awaiting us. The box had been in San Francisco all the +time. + +One of the bills was intrusted to an officer going there, who +promised to attend to the matter, but he never troubled himself about +it. After months had elapsed we begged another officer to hunt up the +box, which he not only did, but kindly brought it to us, after its +arrival had been vainly expected for fourteen months. The strangest +part of the whole affair, to my unworldly mind, was that the first +officer was under great obligations to us, while the one who really +obtained the box was almost a stranger. + +The present may not seem a fitting occasion to moralize; but as this +is a true account of my army life and experience, I desire to state +that my reward for undue exertions on any one’s behalf was usually +the basest ingratitude. Of course this is only in accordance with all +the time-honored maxims of wiser people than myself, but the personal +experience was none the less unpleasant. + +The officer to whom I refer as having been under obligations, had +brought a sick wife and child to the post for a temporary sojourn, +but the illness of his wife was so prolonged I was completely worn +out nursing her. As an addition to my troubles a second child +appeared upon the scene, which I was not only compelled to care +for, but supply with a wardrobe, in order that they might leave +for California in a month’s time. I was ill in bed, the result of +overwork, for weeks after they left, yet never have received a line +from them. + +My long experience on the frontier plainly demonstrated that the +absence of civilization and all its appliances compelled any one with +a sympathetic heart to learn all branches of nursing. Before having +been married ten years I had acted as midwife at least that number of +times, and, far sadder, had prepared sweet and beautiful women for +their last resting-places. + +Few who have seen delicately nurtured city girls marry so gladly the +men of their choice, have any idea of what they must endure in army +life. The utter absence of so much that is considered indispensable +in ordinary homes, added to the constant possibility of a move at the +most infelicitous moment, causes anxiety and restlessness which have +no adequate compensations in either the emoluments or glory that can +be gained in the service. Children always enjoy frontier travel, but +anxiety falls to the lot of mothers. + +In one march of our regiment from New Mexico to Texas, nine children +were born _en route_. In those instances which came under my +observation, both mothers and babies were on the second day bundled +into ambulances and marched onward. In my opinion the natural +desire of army officers’ wives to be with their husbands has cost +the sacrifice of many precious lives; while those who survive the +hardships have bitter sufferings to contend with in after years of +chronic illness. + +It is notorious that no provision is made for women in the army. Many +indignation meetings were held at which we discussed the matter, and +rebelled at being considered mere camp followers. It is a recognized +fact that woman’s presence—as wife—alone prevents demoralization, and +army officers are always encouraged to marry for that reason. + +While at Camp Date Creek we formed several pleasant friendships, and +it is a matter of regret that in the years which have since elapsed +I have never met any of the ladies. Through the resignation of our +company captain and promotion of the senior lieutenant, an addition +was made to our circle of a brave, true soldier a man appointed from +the ranks—who by his nobility of character graced the higher position. + +Consolidation at that time weeded out all worthless men. If an +officer’s reputation was aspersed, the charges were investigated, and +if proved, the chances of retaining his commission were very slight. + +A second lieutenant of our troop was a scamp. He victimized me before +receiving his _congé_. I had supposed the mere title, “officer of +the army,” to be synonymous with honesty, so intrusted to him the +hoardings of many months with which I had designed to purchase a +pipe, and present to my husband. The amount, seventy-five dollars, +was large to me, and evidently to him also, for I never saw the money +again, nor the pipe it was to buy. Neither did the lieutenant return, +for he was dismissed the service, or rather dropped for incompetency. + +Mr. Boyd had his pipe after all; for not discouraged by my loss I +began to save again, and although funds accumulated slowly, and a +year passed before the requisite amount was laid by, the pipe remains +to this day a memento of my early extravagance. + +We had no outside society at Date Creek except a few rough +frontiersmen, who not only dared the danger from Indians, but also +that of the low, malarious atmosphere, for the sake of raising +vegetables, which commanded high prices. True, our small military +post was the only market, and as all supplies required to supplement +the gardeners’ stores were by reason of freight equally high-priced, +I doubt if the men even succeeded in making a comfortable living. + +With all its drawbacks life was very enjoyable. Though out of the +question to go far, yet we explored the country within a radius +of several miles. Neither game nor fish were found, but it was a +pleasure to meet the strange characters with which that region +abounded. + +We indulged in one visit to our regimental friends at Camp Willow +Grove. Everything was delightful when once there, but we had as usual +a disagreeable time going. Two days were consumed on the way. The +first night was spent at a stage station where all the strange and +uncouth experiences of our Nevada journey were repeated. There was, +however, a woman in this rough home who shared her bed with me; but +as it was originally intended only for one person, and we each had an +infant to care for, it soon became a question of whether or not I, +who occupied the side next the wall, should be shoved through it. + +The thin boards of which the house was built were distinguished, +as is all frontier lumber, by their ability to warp, and therefore +proved a protection only from the rain, and not from the wind which +blew through the knot-holes and cracks. The inclemency of the weather +made matters worse. It was a fearful night! I mentally resolved +never to spend another in that rickety house. We changed our route +returning, and passed through Prescott. + +About that time we began to rejoice in the prospect of additional +stores being furnished by the commissary department. After striving +for nearly two years to vary the monotony of our rations, we felt as +if the promised treat, in the shape of chocolate, macaroni, prunes, +raisins, and currants, would be almost too much of a luxury, and +care must be exercised if indigestion was not desired. + +How much we enjoyed the slight variety! The zest with which cook and +I rang the changes on those different comestibles would seem really +childish at the present day, when almost all varieties of canned +goods and luxuries in the shape of grocers’ supplies can be found at +every military post, however small and remote. + +The amount of pleasure which can be derived from the most +insignificant sources seems incredible; but I attribute much of the +happiness I found in army life to my delight in trivial matters. Then +we all were so united in mutual interests. The officers, instead +of being immersed in business cares, were ever ready to be amazed +or amused, as the case might be, with the results of our industry, +and absolute delight was manifested over the most trifling plan for +social enjoyment, which doubled the pleasure. + +I have for many years entertained the greatest regard for +physicians, because during our army life they displayed so warm an +interest in my children. One of the merits of frontier residence is +that little ones thrive so much better there than in a city, and +rarely suffer from the many ailments to which town-bred children are +subject. The interest they inspire in every one, especially the post +surgeon, whose constant presence in cases of emergency gives one a +feeling of comfort and security nothing else can afford, is very +gratifying. The result, even in cases of severe illness, is usually +complete recovery. Both parents and patients unavoidably benefit by +the surroundings. + +Our doctor at Camp Date Creek was a character so uncommon that my +recollections of him can never be effaced. He was an Irishman, a +grandnephew of John Philpot Curran, the distinguished Irish wit, and +himself so full of humor that his very presence was an antidote to +sickness and sorrow. + +The doctor received a government contract after having been in +America but a few months. He never wearied of recounting the +impressions American slang had made upon him. Immediately on entering +our house he would seize baby and hold her for hours, all the time +pouring forth reminiscences of Ireland, and expressing surprise at +the difference between the two countries. + +Our slang was described as very effective, especially the +Californian, which had, or so the doctor assured me, a distinct +vocabulary of its own, that, like adjectives, was capable of being +positive, comparative, and superlative. As an example he instanced +the following: + +“You bet, you bet you, you bet your life.” “Why,” said he, “here is a +perfect declension! You bet your boots, you bet your bottom dollar, +you bet stamps.” + +The genial Irish doctor was immensely pleased with our vernacular, if +with nothing else. + +It would afford me much pleasure to prolong the narration of +incidents connected with those friends who aided so greatly in making +our life enjoyable, but I must hurry on with the account of our +journey to New Mexico. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + +Our little daughter was just eleven months old when the regiment was +ordered to move. We started on our long journey in mid-winter. The +troops from Prescott were to cross directly into New Mexico, and we +had hoped to accompany them, but were instead sent to join others +from the southern posts. That made our journey much longer, as after +going in a southerly, then easterly direction, our line lay north to +Fort Stanton, New Mexico. + +Eve could hardly have felt more reluctant to leave the Garden of +Eden than I did when we bade farewell to the camp, which though +indeed desolate, never had seemed so to me, but, rather, the most +delightful imaginable spot. I cried bitterly for days. My packing was +accomplished with a heavy heart, I was so miserable at the thought +of leaving that which had been my first real home. + +We were to have no company for some days but that of the troop and +our dear old captain, who was really like one of ourselves. His true +and loving nature had greatly endeared him to us, and he formed a +firm link in the family chain. + +Unaccustomed to any comfort on former journeys, I was not inclined +to exact much on that, so soon learned instinctively to fall into +the regular routine and discipline, and expected no consideration +on account of my sex. I had never before traveled with troops; and +though I did not like to rise long before the first peep of day, and +after a hurried and scanty breakfast climb into an ambulance and +drive for hours, I soon learned to do so without a murmur. My reward +came in the praise our captain bestowed, when he declared that during +the entire march of six long, weary weeks, I had never caused one +moment’s delay or trouble. + +I have often since questioned whether some plan might not have been +devised to prevent the officers’ wives from being subjected to the +stringent rules that must be enforced among soldiers. I suppose that +just as a woman whose husband is in business regulates her household +according to the needs or conveniences of its head, so, with the +same spirit, the wife of an army officer endures the hardships her +husband’s position imposes. + +Our beloved commanding officer had been in the army so many years +that the possibility of deviating in any degree from the routine +which had become second nature doubtless never occurred to him. +Probably no question of expediency—simply that of duty—ever suggested +itself. + +Though a sufferer all my life from army discipline, which has +continually controlled my movements, yet, when chafing most against +its restraints, I have admired the grand soldierly spirit which made +nearly every officer uncomplainingly forego all personal comfort for +the sake of duty. No one outside the army can realize what the true +soldier relinquishes when he forsakes home and family for the noble +cause. + +Every one has read or heard of the mad courage displayed in times +of war, and my knowledge of the soldier is in times of peace; yet I +have then seen exhibited what to me is by far the truer heroism. It +is easy to be brave when war trumps sound and the spirit is roused to +great hopes of personal achievements, when love for a cause deepens +the ardor which sustains men even in death; but tame submission to +petty and altogether unnecessary hardships, because in the line of +duty and part of a soldier’s inevitable fate, is, in my opinion, far +more praiseworthy. + +Our captain was a hero in the truest sense of the word. Like many +others, he had served for years during our civil war as a private +before being promoted to the rank of an officer. But after promotion +the possession and exercise of rare soldierly qualities soon enabled +him to reach a position of influence. He was intrusted with the +command of a company, which after a desperate resistance was +captured. Having been severely wounded, he was released on parole, +and remained in a little town of Southern New Mexico, where he was +well taken care of, and during that season of forced inactivity +recovered his health. + +Almost anyone would have considered him fairly entitled to pay; but +such was his idea of rectitude that he refused to accept a dollar, +not considering that it had been fairly earned; and to this day the +five months’ pay due him while a prisoner remains in the coffers of +our government. The subsequent life of this honorable man has been +one of duty and devotion to country. His health is ruined by the +almost incredible hardships a cavalry soldier’s duties entail. + +We journeyed south through Arizona to Tucson, then turned east. Our +outfit consisted of a wall tent, which on encamping at night was +placed on as smooth ground as could be found, and a mess chest filled +with supplies. By placing a support under the raised cover of the +latter, and filling the open space with a board that fitted nicely, +it could be utilized as a table. The interior contained plates and +dishes in addition to supplies, and the moment we reached camp our +cook, a soldier, would begin preparations for a meal, which though +ever so plain was always done full justice to by appetites the long +ride had sharpened. + +In accordance with my usual habit, I made all necessary preparations +in advance for supplying our wants; and it soon became more a +question of quantity than of quality, for the generous hearts of Mr. +Boyd and the captain always forgot that our supplies were limited. An +instance of their thoughtlessness in such matters was on one occasion +evinced by the arrival, unexpectedly to me, of four guests whom they +had invited to remain with us for a few days. To supply food for a +week—as it happened in that case—to those extra people, blessed with +unusually good appetites, taxed my ingenuity. + +We had by that time reached the celebrated Indian villages of the +Pimas and Maricopas. Those two tribes had been at peace with the +pale faces for a century. They cultivated land, and were industrious +and prosperous. Their villages stretched along the highway for many +miles, so we spent six days among them. They watched our progress in +the well-known, somewhat indifferent Indian fashion, though evincing +real interest when we encamped at night, and swarming about us with +various wares for sale, such as pottery and baskets, both unique in +pattern and very serviceable. The latter were made so fine in texture +and quality as to hold water. The various designs in which those +useful articles were woven displayed much taste. + +We felt that a land flowing with milk and honey had indeed been +reached. Not only could eggs and chickens be bought, but so cheaply +we could indulge in them to our hearts’ content. + +The Pima and Maricopa Indians, like all others, were unprepossessing +in appearance; but aware that after leaving them we would be once +more among the murderous Apaches, I, for one at least, enjoyed their +society because of the protection it afforded. + +Every night when we pitched our tents the women would crowd about +and indulge in ecstasies over the little white baby whose ablutions +were a source of constant and serious wonderment. This can be well +understood when one remembers that Indians rarely, if ever, use water +other than for drinking purposes. I never permitted any of them to +touch baby, being afraid to do so. + +Our little Chinaman, with his long pigtail, also caused much +amazement and no doubt speculation as to what he really was. As +no attempt was made to disguise this, he evidently became at once +disgusted with notoriety. It was, I believe, the cause of his one day +appearing minus that appendage so revered by all Chinese—his cue. +When I inquired what had become of it, and told him he could never +return to China, he replied: + +“Me no care. Me want to be ’Melican man.” + +Our baby was singularly fair and white; and in all our travels, both +among Indians and Mexicans, all went into raptures over the children, +who with their sunny heads were such utter contrasts to the swarthy +races among which we moved. + +A few days of travel after leaving the Indian villages brought +us to Tucson, then an insignificant town of flat mud houses, so +unprepossessing that we were glad to drive through without stopping, +and encamp beside a beautiful stream two miles beyond. The town was +then being decimated by smallpox, which raged among the Mexicans. +We were obliged to flee from contact with it, especially as our +soldiers were always ready to explore any new place, regardless of +consequences. + +We spent one day in sight seeing, though the only point of special +interest was a noted church nine miles from Tucson. I cannot express +the astonishment excited by the sight of that house of worship built +in those vast wilds, hundreds of miles from all civilization. The +edifice, of noble proportions, was of red brick and whitish stucco. +Both belfry and tower were complete. The interior decorations were +profuse, and covered the walls. The floor, once hard and smooth, had +been worn into hollows by the footsteps of countless devotees, whose +race even was unknown, though surmised to be that of the ancient +Aztecs, or followers of Montezuma. + +I doubt if even in Europe, with its mystic shrines dating back +countless ages, I could have experienced a more profound sense of awe +than when standing in that absolutely desert spot, and realizing that +skilled hands had once erected there such a monument. + +In that old church were marriage records dating back hundreds of +years; but the structure was to me the all absorbing wonder. + +The Mexicans living near worshiped most devoutly at its shrines; +and they were not the only frequenters of that house of prayer, +for the Spanish priests had a large following of Indians who had +intermarried with the Spaniards and settled there. + +I could hardly tear myself from the spot, and returned again and +again to ascend the belfry stairs and wonder and speculate upon the +strange mystery called “San Xavier del Bac.” + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + +At that point we parted with our four guests, who had contributed, +by their fund of wit and humor, to render the journey pleasant, and +had added much to our merriment at meal times. It required, however, +a stronger sense of humor than I possessed to be merry at breakfast, +eaten in semi-darkness, after having been awakened with military +precision. + +It was certainly not cheerful to watch the tent and its furnishings +disappear in the wagon while we sat trying to imagine ourselves +breakfasting, with the sharp morning air of February chilling, or +the March winds blowing about us. When the dreary meal was over we +scrambled into our ambulance, and by the time a few miles had been +passed I would be fairly awake and longing for lunch time. + +The strangest part of those travels is that children thrive so well, +and really enjoy every moment of the journey, however monotonous. +My baby could not walk, and I was glad of it; for a more thorny, +desolate country than that it has never been my lot to traverse. +The innumerable beds of cacti were the spots most delighted in by +children, and I rejoiced that baby had no chance of being lost among +those dangerous plants. + +After leaving Tucson, we passed many lonely graves dispersed over +the weird desolation of that uninhabited space, and soon learned to +discern where savage Apaches had moved. With our escort of fifty +well-mounted men we had nothing to fear; but those mounds of stones, +appealing in mute silence to the passer by, touched me deeply. + +On arriving at the different stage stations we generally rested a +while, and usually found there some poor woman who was working day +and night to assist her husband, and with whom I always made it a +custom to converse. The comparison of the lives of those women with +mine caused me to feel additional sympathy for them, and gratitude on +my own account. + +Notwithstanding our large escort, it was necessary to proceed with +great caution, for one never could tell what might happen when +passing through the mountainous regions of Southern Arizona. Camp +Bowie, at which we remained three days, was nestled amid high +mountains, and Indians often appeared on the bluffs above, from which +they fired recklessly and sometimes effectively. A large guard was +always detailed to watch the outposts; and yet so subtle, as is well +known, are Indians, that although close at hand they were seldom +caught. + +One evening while we were at Camp Bowie an Indian crept into the +stables, and while the sentry was pacing to and fro at the farther +end, mounted a fine horse standing near the entrance, and with a +yell of victory horse and rider disappeared. He well knew that once +mounted, pursuit could be defied. + +That strange little fort in the very heart of the mountain fastness +sheltered a number of women and children. As usual, we received a +hearty welcome, and were feasted and _fêted_ in true army fashion. +The post surgeon vacated his room in our honor; for which we were +very grateful, especially when one of those terrible mountain +blizzards came on, in which clouds of dust so thick are formed that +objects cannot be distinguished at a distance of ten feet. The room +we occupied was built of logs, and dust blew through the crevices +until it seemed as if we were a part of the universal grit. The tents +were simply uninhabitable, though before our destination was reached +we were compelled to occupy them through what seemed fully as severe +a storm. + +Officers have the habit of beautifying their quarters all +circumstances permit; and our friend the doctor, who had incommoded +himself for us, was no exception to the general rule. The rough +mud ceiling of his room had been covered with unbleached cotton; +and shelves, mostly laden with books, were suspended from rafters +by means of the same material torn into strips. One hanging over +the open fireplace was crowded with bottles of all sizes and +descriptions, which contained every form of vermin and reptile life +to be found in that region. In the eyes of one unaccustomed to such +sights it would, indeed, have been an alarming display. + +The collection embraced centipeds, scorpions, tarantulas in their +hideous blackness, and snakes of all kinds—at least those small +enough to be bottled. They were not elegant mantel ornaments, but +having been long accustomed to such sights I did not mind them. It +was, however, altogether another matter to be brought in actual +contact with the monstrosities, as happened on the second night of +the storm. + +We were thoroughly worn out combating the omnipresent dust, and had +retired early, when a tremendous crash suddenly awakened us from +sound sleep. At first we thought the end of the world had come; +but soon discovered that the shelf containing bottled tenants had +fallen. It was some time before a light could be procured; for +matches and lamps, as well as clocks and watches, were all buried +under the _débris_. + +No description can do justice to the scene. Everything upon the +shelf, ornamental as well as useful, formed a conglomerate mass, over +which the liberated monstrosities were scattered in every direction. + +The doctor apologized for the accident, but we were none the worse, +and it added one more to the list of funny experiences that were +often afterward laughed over. + +From Camp Bowie our road lay through grand and gorgeous mountain +scenery to Fort Cummings, in south-western New Mexico. A mountain +pass on that route has been the scene of more Indian atrocities than +any other spot in the entire Apache region. Magnificent Cook’s Peak +has looked down upon more outrages than time can ever efface. The +stage road wound through this pass for years, and the number of times +the Indians have brutally murdered passengers is countless. Even now +that a railroad has superseded the stage, it is a place of terror to +most travelers, and the history of its bloody battles and massacres +would fill volumes. + +We remained at Fort Cummings one day, and found it indeed a wretched +place, devoid of all attractions save the kind friends who made us so +welcome. + +Another day’s march brought us to Fort Selden, on the Rio Grande, +from whence we caught our first glimpse of that strange river. Rising +in Southern Colorado, a beautifully clear stream, it flows on for +hundreds and hundreds of miles, changing color as frequently as does +the famous chameleon. Now it is bright and sparkling, again dull and +sluggish, and anon disappears completely, to reappear with added +volume and intensity. How many have been deceived by that treacherous +river! Trusting to its apparently listless course, travelers have +been suddenly swept away in a mad, headlong current, which absorbed +their lives as the vampire is said to do those of his prey. Ah! if +the casualties that have occurred on the Rio Grande could be written, +each of its victims adding but one line to the record, what a strange +and fearful story would be told. + +There is a tradition to the effect that any one tasting its waters +will be compelled, by some strange, subtle charm or influence, +to return, even though after the lapse of years. Certain it is +that people always long to again experience its strange and weird +fascination, which seems really to follow them, and from which there +is no respite until the mighty stream is actually revisited. + +The Rio Grande, which I first saw twenty years ago, has often charmed +me since. Though not often again in the same region, I have elsewhere +followed its banks for miles, and the borders of no other river it +has ever been my fortune to gaze upon, present so many varieties +of life. Desolation and beautiful verdure are mingled; while its +fruitful produce tends to make the country, which without its +beneficent influence would indeed be a desert, a very paradise. + +But I would not forestall my narrative by saying too much of this +river, to which I so often returned, and which finally became like a +familiar friend, a part of my very life itself. + +We left the Rio Grande at Don Aña, and struck off into beautiful, +piney Lincoln County, New Mexico, where we had a happy home for +another year. Before reaching there we encamped for one night at +White Sands, memorable on account of the peculiarity of its soil. A +perfectly wonderful mass of pure white sand, which lay in hillocks, +extended far as the eye could reach. We climbed onward, our feet +sinking in slightly, just enough to remind us of “footsteps on the +sands of time.” Those sand hillocks had existed from time immemorial, +and will remain for ages to come, I suppose, unless some commercial +mind shall divine their value and utilize the white commodity, by +converting it into a merchantable article. I am glad to have seen +them in their spotless purity and beauty. + +The remainder of our journey to dear old Fort Stanton was through +exquisite forests of mountain pines, and beside clear streams that +yielded delicious trout. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + +At Fort Stanton nature was a constant source of joy and pleasure. The +nearby streams were fairly alive with delicious fish, so abundant +that a line could hardly be thrown before one would bite. Besides +fish, we had game of almost every variety, and fairly lived on +the “fat of the land.” New Mexico had been called “The Troopers’ +Paradise,” and we found the name to be well merited. + +Perhaps the very wildness of the country and abundance of game +provoked a lawless element; for Lincoln County, if a good one for +natural supplies, has always been regarded as a rallying point for +desperadoes, and its history is famous in the annals of crime. + +At first my wonder and sympathies were excited; but in time the +peaceful security one always experiences when surrounded by +well-armed troops deadened susceptibilities to what transpired +outside. Army officers’ wives hear of bloodshed with much the same +feeling as is experienced by women living in cities when they learn +of frightful accidents which involve the lives of others, but of none +who are near and dear to them. + +We passed one happy, peaceful year at Fort Stanton. The houses, built +of stone, which was very plentiful in that mountainous region, were +very comfortable. Each had two rooms, with a detached kitchen and +dining-room about fifteen feet in the rear. + +The climate was perfect, the air so exquisitely pure as to lend a +freshness and charm to each day’s existence. To breathe was like +drinking new wine. I cannot pity the isolation of settlers in those +regions, for the beauty of natural scenery displayed on all sides is +ample compensation, and to live is to enjoy. My recollections of that +year are delightful. + +Several companies had preceded us, so I had companions of my own +sex. Our amusements consisted in part of driving, and fishing in +streams where success, however inferior the angler’s skill, was +certain. Our wildest gayety was a card-party, and we always attended +military balls. There were not enough officers’ wives to have +dances of our own; but we always opened those of the soldiers’, and +thoroughly appreciated their enjoyment. + +Some of those affairs would have presented a strange picture to +people in the East; but the very absurdity and variety of the +costumes and conduct of frontiersmen and their wives, who were always +invited, only added zest to our enjoyment, and the recollections +amused us for days. + +One evening so fierce a storm raged that we hardly dared cross the +parade ground; yet our desire to go was sufficient to induce the +attempt. We were fairly blown into the room, and to our surprise +found it filled with the usual throng. How in the world they had all +reached the place through such a severe storm puzzled us greatly, +but there they were. + +It was a curious sight, and a still more curious sound, that all +those people produced. The strains of music, the stamping of many +feet, and the wild howling of the wind, all combined to greatly +stimulate our nerves. The excitement was still further increased when +suddenly a loud crash was heard; every one rushed out in alarm to +discover that a huge flagstaff, which it had taken months to make and +erect, had fallen and been splintered into a thousand fragments. The +staff had not been properly secured by stanchions. + +The occurrence was regretted, not only because the making and +erecting had consumed much time, but also because it had been +difficult to find a suitable tree tall enough for the purpose. Thus +our towering flagstaff, which had taken many years to grow and +several months to fashion, had been laid low in a less number of +seconds. + +Soon after I experienced another fright, quite different in its +nature from the one just related. I now firmly believe an army +garrison to be the most secure place on earth, and in later years +almost forgot the use of keys; but in those earlier days I was always +on the alert. + +One night when Mr. Boyd was away I placed a student lamp at the foot +of our bed, and after looking under it in the usual approved woman +fashion, lay down to rest. My nervous fears had only just passed +away, permitting me to fall into a light slumber, when I found myself +suddenly sitting up gazing at the form of a man entering the door. My +heart seemed to stop beating, yet fortunately I had the courage to +exclaim: + +“What are you doing here? Leave the room!” + +The man promptly obeyed. I sprang up, locked the door, and called the +servants. When I found that my nurse, who slept in the next room, had +disappeared, and that cook, on account of the distance between the +house and kitchen, could not hear me, I felt as if a plan was on +foot to murder me, and endured a half-hour of absolute agony, such as +I hope it will never again be my lot to experience. + +At last the nurse appeared, and I went once more to rest; but so +vivid were my impressions of the man that I picked him out next day +from among a hundred; and then begged, on learning that he had been +wandering around intoxicated, and merely entered the first door which +responded to his touch, that no punishment be inflicted. + +Beautiful Fort Stanton was not only perfect in natural scenery and +surroundings, but had been improved by excellent methods. Various +officers had from time to time planted trees around the parade +ground; and to facilitate their growth an _acequia_, as it was called +in Spanish, or ditch, had been dug, and the water, constantly running +through it, kept the roots of the trees always moist, so they grew +rapidly and formed a delightful shade in front of our quarters. + +We became so fond of our home in that charming spot that everything +else contented us. The mail came, as before, but once a week, and +its arrival made that day a red-letter one in our quiet lives. It +was always devoted to eager anticipations and close watching of +the long line of road over which the mail rider came. If over due, +nothing else could be thought or talked of until he arrived, and we +received our news from beyond the border. Even baby learned to look +for letters, and to expect some token of love from absent friends. +She would forsake her favorite playground near the muddy _acequia_ to +join the anxious group of watchers. + +Every one has heard the story of the baby who was taken by her mother +to some performance in San Francisco in the early days, when women +were scarce and babies so rare as almost to be wonders; and how, when +the little one cried and refused to be pacified, an old miner arose +and requested that the play should cease so they might hear the baby +cry. His request was applauded on all sides, and a hat passed round +for the baby, who had reminded those rough men of a home life almost +forgotten in their pioneer surroundings. + +My baby was not only of the greatest importance to me, but if I +noticed any sign of the devotion she was expected to receive from +other sources flagging, my displeasure was quickly expressed. I have +since been told that the officers, after reporting for duty to their +commander, would say: + +“Now we must go see baby, and report her condition.” + +Consequently she received as much notice as if it had been her divine +right. The little one could talk plainly by the time she was fifteen +months old, and amused us all greatly. + +In looking back upon those happy days I often wonder how I could +voluntarily have left so dear a home. But after residing there a year +I decided to visit friends in New York, so bade farewell to beautiful +Fort Stanton, not knowing I never should again see it. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + +We left Fort Stanton in March, prepared for a seemingly almost +interminable journey before reaching the railroad at Denver, five +hundred miles distant. Expecting to find houses in which to pass the +nights, we took no tent, and besides my trunk very little baggage. +It was entirely too early in the season for traveling to be really +comfortable, as in that exquisite mountain air mornings and evenings +are very cold. + +The country between Forts Stanton and Union was simply superb in +its wild grandeur and beauty. Only the pen of an artist could have +done justice to its many charms. We stopped every night with Mexican +families, who in their simple kindness were most truly hospitable. +They made us welcome, and yet exacted no reward for the time and +attention bestowed. I always required those hours for rest and +looking after baby, who with the happy unconcern of childhood had a +way of wandering in paths unsuited to such tender feet. + +In all those rough travels I never met with anything else which +gave me so much trouble as the cactus plant. Wherever we went, and +whatever else we missed, that was always present in some shape or +form. In regions where nothing else could be prevailed upon to grow, +that useful but disagreeable plant always throve; and the more +dreary, parched, and barren the soil, the more surely did the cactus +flourish and expand its bayonet-armed leaves. + +If very young children were allowed to wander in the least, one could +safely depend upon finding them in the vicinity of the dangerous +cacti. During that journey our little one tripped and fell directly +upon a large plant, which, it seemed to me, had more than the usual +complement of thorns, for her little knees were fairly filled with +them, and days passed before all were picked out. + +Cacti are the main feature of Western plant life. Sometimes with +fluted columns, as in Arizona, they rear their heads aloft in stately +grandeur. Again they are found in some one of the numerous less +inspiring shapes and forms the plant assumes in different parts of +the West. There must be at least fifty varieties. All are supplied +with that chief characteristic—sharp-pointed prickers—which remind +the unwary of their presence and power. + +It takes a great deal of frontier experience to deal correctly +with cacti. They have many and valuable properties which the early +settlers long since discovered. The most common variety is the low, +flat-land species which requires no seeking. In the far West it +flaunts itself by all roadsides and everywhere dots the prairies. It +is very nutritive, and utilized by natives as food for cattle; they +first burn away the prickles with which it has been so bountifully +supplied by nature. Even in that land of seeming barrenness for man +and beast, much can be found to support life. The cactus supplies an +intoxicating liquor called _mescal_; and one variety bears a fruit +which tastes somewhat like the strawberry, and is much sought after +by Mexicans. + +The only time when cacti are really pretty is in early spring, when +they bloom. Then the bright-hued flowers dot the country with color, +and relieve the eye from the monotonous gray hue which pervades all +nature in a region where rains are so periodical as to prevent the +vernal freshness of the East. + +There is a rare and nameless charm in the contemplation of those +extended prairies, with their soft gray tints, dreary to Eastern +people, but so dearly loved by those who become imbued with the deep +sentiment their vast expanse inspires. + +I shall never become reconciled to localities where the eye cannot +look for miles and miles beyond the spot where one stands, and where +the density of the atmosphere circumscribes the view, limiting it +to a comparatively short distance. I have traveled in New Mexico and +Arizona for days, when on starting early in the morning the objective +point of my journey, and an endless stretch of road, perhaps for a +hundred miles, could be seen. + +To mount a horse, such as can be found only in the West, perfect for +the purpose, and gallop over prairies, completely losing one’s self +in vast and illimitable space, as silent as lonely, is to leave every +petty care, and feel the contented frame of mind which can only be +produced by such surroundings. In those grand wastes one is truly +alone with God. Oh, I love the West, and dislike to think that the +day will surely come when it will teem with human life and all its +warring elements! + +On that journey East from my dear Western home everything seemed new. +After traveling for days, Fort Union was reached, where we remained +a while, and then went North, passing through beautiful Colorado, +stopping at Trinidad, Pueblo, and finally, after seventeen days +of ambulance travel, reaching Denver. It was more like a panoramic +journey than a real one; for we kept continually advancing toward a +higher and higher degree of civilization, till its apex—New York—was +reached. + +All those strange, crude, and uncivilized Western villages have since +become thriving railroad towns. Denver, with its perfect environment +of exquisite mountain scenery, will always remain in my mind a +picture of beauty. + +Mr. Boyd was to leave me at Denver, and return to Fort Stanton; but +we first spent a delightful week there. My brother met and introduced +us to some pleasant people. There was a fine company at the principal +theatre, which we attended nightly, and I shed tears over dear +old Rip Van Winkle, who, though not personated by Jefferson, was +sufficiently well portrayed to merit and receive great applause. +The absolute freshness of feeling one experiences after years of +absence from such scenes is sufficiently delightful to make the jaded +theater-goer envious. + +I was exceedingly proud of my introduction to that estimable +couple, Mr. and Mrs. McKee Rankin, the “stars” in that theatrical +combination; and we were honored by an invitation to dine with them, +which was accepted. We had the pleasantest imaginable time. + +My brother had been living in Cheyenne for some time, and, in his +great desire to again witness a fine theatrical performance, had, +with a friend, assumed the entire responsibility of the troupe’s +success. A week had been spent in enlisting every one’s interest; +and although he guaranteed expenses in any event, yet when the +important night arrived there was a full house, and one of the most +picturesque audiences ever collected. Every miner, ranchman, gambler, +and the whole military garrison at Cheyenne, were not only there, but +applauded everything as a Western audience alone can—in a manner that +made the very building tremble. + +Such an audience is a sight which once seen is not easily forgotten. +Similar heterogeneous elements never enter into the lives of the +people at the East, and it is almost impossible to describe such +a gathering. Imagine a peculiarly picturesque and large audience, +composed of every imaginable species of the human race, each so +intent upon the performance that actual surroundings are entirely +ignored. + +In those early days of which I am writing, the population of Denver +was much more composite than it is at the present time; and the +experienced eye could readily distinguish men and women of every +nationality, and from every station in life, from the cowboy to +the millionaire. Beautiful Denver! my heart turns longingly to its +perfect climate; and the desire to once again inhale that sweet, pure +air, and catch a glimpse of its glorious mountain scenery, cannot be +overcome. + +We left that lovely town after a week’s delightful stay, and for +two days and nights rolled over the prairies in cars, watching the +endless stretch of level and monotonous plains, relieved here and +there by herds of buffaloes, which sometimes approached so near as to +be shot at from the train. It reminded me of the excitement created +when whales are encountered on a sea voyage, because the passengers, +after once having seen them, were constantly on the lookout for more, +and the state of expectancy rendered their journey less tedious. +These herds of buffaloes have long since disappeared from the Kansas +plains, and their very memory will soon become a recollection of the +past. + +As we rolled into dingy St. Louis, where brother left me, my heart +sank at the prospect of again breathing air too heavy and dense to +be anything but suffocating. The next morning found me in Chicago, +where I was to be met by another brother. Our little daughter was so +accustomed to being on friendly terms with every one, that she used +to go from one end of the car to the other, chatting and enjoying +every moment of her trip. To ride in cars, after lurching about in +all sorts of uncomfortable conveyances over rough mountains and +plains, was like gently gliding; and but for the heavy atmosphere and +coal dust, it seemed as if I should never tire. + +A very enjoyable day was passed in Chicago. My brother pointed out, +with evident pride, the splendid public buildings, which but a +few months later were devastated by the fire fiend, only to rise, +phœnix-like, from their ruins in greater beauty and splendor. + +I have the most profound admiration both for Chicago and the spirit +of enterprise shown by its inhabitants; and when I saw it again after +the calamity, I bowed in reverence to a community that could evolve +so much architectural beauty and elegance, to say nothing of comfort, +from so disastrous a misfortune as that terrible fire. + +Twenty hours after leaving Chicago found me in New York. I had looked +forward with intense longing to that moment, supposing ineffable +happiness would be my portion when again there; but standing in front +of the Fifth Avenue hotel, a landmark more familiar to me than any +other in the city, my disappointment and heart sickness were severe. + +I had seen the hotel rise from nothing; had always lived in the +immediate vicinity, daily passed it going to and from school; and +when homesick during my army life the mere thought of that hotel +would awaken the happiest feelings; but when the desire to again +see it had been attained my heart sank with a bitter feeling of +loneliness. + +No longing has ever equaled in intensity the one which then took +possession of me—to be back again in my dear Western home, surrounded +by all the lonely grandeur of its lovely scenery. Though I remained +East an entire year, it was only because obliged to, and during all +those months I never ceased to sigh for the day of my return. + +I had many joyful reunions with kind relatives and dear friends, much +to make life bright and cheerful; but I raved about the delights +of the West until friends thought me nearly crazy on the subject. +Besides missing my own home, as do all married women, in spite of +the unbounded hospitality of friends, I missed the quiet and freedom +from that mad rush which seems an inevitable part of life in a great +city. I was also in the hands of physicians, which was depressing. +The hardships of frontier life, at times when I was entirely unfitted +for travel, had told their tale, and compelled my return East in +order that my shattered health might be regained. + +Three months were spent in New York, and then, with the approach of +warm weather, I wended my way to the mountains. Although they seemed +insipid after the rocky grandeur of the West, I preferred them, such +as they were, to the city with its endless streets and turmoil, where +tall chimney tops prevented my obtaining a glimpse of the blue sky I +had seen so freely and loved so well. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + + +I doubt if any but those who have lived among the prairies or +mountains of the far West can realize how keenly is felt the loss of +that endless environment which becomes a part of life itself, and +which is missed when deprived of, especially at first, almost like +one’s daily bread. + +From the city I went to my husband’s home in New York State, on +a spur of the Catskill Mountains, where I seemed to breathe more +freely, and was enchanted during those long summer months by the +exquisite green of grass, trees, and landscape—in a word, by every +thing that refreshed the eye after such a long period of gray hues, +and which certainly my beloved West lacked. + +I was enthusiastic over the fresh verdure of our beautiful mountain +home, just as I had been over the gray loveliness of the West. It +was, no doubt, the marked contrast which gladdened my eyes. Not a +moment was spent in-doors if it could be avoided; and when compelled +to do so, I placed myself where a perpetual feast to the eyes was in +full view. + +One could dwell perpetually amid recollections of the past; so I will +hasten over that quiet, restful summer to the succeeding fall, when +my husband arrived on his first leave of absence. Needless to say the +young soldier was greeted by his family with the welcome befitting +one, who, having spent three years in distant service, returned to +his home with unalloyed pleasure, and reviewed with renewed delight +the early surroundings and memories of his youth. + +During the month following Mr. Boyd’s arrival our first boy was +born, and no prince could ever have been received with more sincere +delight. Parents and grandparents were unanimous in considering +him wonderful, and indeed he was a splendid baby! My husband +celebrated his advent as we would have done on the frontier, with +much rejoicing; but the Puritan grandparents seriously objected to +conviviality of any kind, and seized the occasion to obtain their +son’s promise to abstain in future from intoxicating liquors of every +description. To gratify his dear father Mr. Boyd agreed, although +there was no necessity for such a pledge, as he had always been most +temperate. Our son was ten years of age before Captain Boyd again +tasted liquor, and then it was by the doctor’s express order. + +When our baby boy was three months old his father began to think +the country a cold place for us, and to debate the desirability +of a return to New York, especially as he felt we were entitled, +after our long sojourn on the frontier, to some of the pleasures +of Eastern life. One entire morning was spent in discussing the +matter. The conclusion arrived at was, that even if we remained with +relatives the amount of my husband’s pay would in no wise suffice +for the ordinary expenses of life in New York. In order to have any +leisure I should require a nurse for our two little children, and the +half-pay received was only sixty-five dollars a month. + +In relating these experiences of army life, I wish it distinctly +understood that I am not exaggerating—simply stating facts. A cavalry +officer was deprived of almost every opportunity of visiting home +and relatives in the East, and when permitted to do so on leave was +compelled to plunge in debt, which involved him for years afterward +in difficulties: so, great as was the pleasure, and most innocent and +natural, we considered it too dearly bought ever to be repeated, and +therefore did not again come East until compelled to do so on account +of our children’s education. + +My husband had journeyed from Fort Stanton to New York at frightful +expense, traveling by stage to Denver, which, as my previous +experience has shown, was the most costly mode of transit. An officer +has not only to make all trips when on leave at his own expense, but +in those days the pay was reduced to half its full amount; and as a +lieutenant was then allowed only one hundred and thirty dollars, Mr. +Boyd received but sixty-five dollars a month. Such reduction seems to +me most unjust, for surely no one can be expected to spend a lifetime +away from all early associations, or pay so dearly for the natural +desire to occasionally see parents and friends. + +We were indeed happy with the pleasure of again visiting our +relatives; but when the long, long return journey from New York to +New Mexico had to be undertaken, and we found that with the utmost +economy it would cost seven hundred dollars, which, with the limited +supply of household necessaries absolutely required, and the expenses +of Mr. Boyd’s journey East added, aggregated upwards of thirteen +hundred dollars, it was anything but a pleasant outlook for the +future. We were in debt to that amount, and must provide for its +payment. + +Can any one wonder either at our dismay, or the resolve never again +to think of leave of absence? For economy we had actually buried +ourselves in the mountains during the entire winter; and although +that was no great hardship, yet it would have been very pleasant +to have enjoyed New York during the season, especially as I never +expected to come East again. + +We realized the stern fact that with an income of only sixty-five +dollars a month, four people should be thankful to have the bare +necessaries of life, without expecting luxuries; but it did seem +rather hard to return without seeing more of the city than a fleeting +glimpse obtained in passing, and—because we were poor. + +While in New York one of my cousins found a servant willing to return +West with us, which seemed desirable, as a nurse would be needed on +that long journey, and the amount of her traveling expenses would be +saved in the wages to be paid—those current in New York instead of +the double rate demanded on the frontier. + +We congratulated ourselves on the servant’s appearance, which was so +far from pleasing it seemed safe to take her. Had it been otherwise +she would, we were sure, soon desert us for matrimony. The girl was +almost a grenadier in looks and manners; and although not absolutely +hideous, was so far from pleasing that we were confident of retaining +her services, so made a contract for one year. + +Our Western journey was uneventful in comparison with others that +had preceded it. It seemed a slight undertaking to travel with +our two little children, who were so good and healthy, and I had +the assistance both of my husband and the nurse. Besides, the joy +experienced at being fairly _en route_ for our own home made me feel +like a caged bird let loose. + +After four days and nights of travel from the East into the West, we +reached Cheyenne, Wyoming Territory, where the children, nurse, and I +were to remain with my brother, while Mr. Boyd went to New Mexico by +stage, and returned with an ambulance for our long journey. + +My heart swells when I think of those perfect days! It was in the +month of May, and we either camped out every night, or slept in some +ranch. Each moment was fraught with pleasure. Every whiff of mountain +air was inhaled with delight, for, like a Mohammedan, my face was +turned toward Mecca. I so rejoiced that our nurse, who was undergoing +the same disagreeable sensations I had experienced at the outset of +my army life in the strange surroundings, was so overpowered she +dared not express her dissatisfaction. + +On arriving at Trinidad, a halt was made, for I had forgotten to +check our trunks from Denver to Kit Carson, so they did not follow. +We awaited them there for a while, but finally decided to go on. +When the trunks eventually reached us, we discovered that they had +been left standing somewhere in the rain until their contents were +saturated with water and had mildewed. + +I felt badly enough over my own trunk; but the nurse wept, “refusing +to be comforted,” for all her finery was ruined. My own regrets +were silenced in listening to her lamentations, especially as I was +entirely to blame. + +We did not return to Fort Stanton, Mr. Boyd’s company having been +ordered to Fort Union; so the journey, which I regarded in the light +of a picnic, from the railroad to our home, required only twelve +days. It was delightful in every respect, or would have been but for +the sour face of our nurse, “who mourned, and mourned, and mourned.” + +When we reached Fort Union, and I asked if it would not be a pleasant +home for us, she looked out on the wide and desolate plain that faced +the fort, and with a weary sigh, said she “preferred New York.” + +Having known the pangs of homesickness, I sympathized with her +deeply; but she kept up so continuously her wail of despair over the +discomforts of our life generally, and it became so tiresome, that +when, five months afterward, she married a soldier, I was rather glad +than otherwise, and returned with a sense of relief to the faithful +men for service. + +We had soon discovered the fallacy of our belief that her plainness +would prevent the possibility of a lover. Women were so scarce, +and men so plenty, that no matter how old or ugly, a woman was not +neglected, and our unprepossessing nurse had scores of suitors for +her hand. She had not been in the fort three days before the man who +laid our carpets proposed to her. It required but little time in +which to become aware of her own value, and on learning that he was +intemperate she quickly discarded him. + +The one whom she finally married was brave in every sense of the +word. Trusting to the old adage, “Faint heart ne’er won fair ladie,” +that man engaged a carriage at Las Vegas for the wedding-trip before +ever having seen her. He was a soldier belonging at Fort Union, who +had been away on distant service for months, and, hearing that we +had a girl from the East with us, made the necessary preparations +for their marriage while _en route_ to the post. His pluck must have +pleased her, for three days after his return she accompanied him to +Las Vegas, where they were united for life. + +She had made my life harder in every way, and taught us the folly of +taking a servant accustomed to Eastern civilization into the Western +wilds. Not only had she scorned all our belongings and surroundings, +but absolutely wearied me with incessant complaints over the absence +of modern conveniences, which was absurd; for the climate was so +exquisite, and the houses so compact, there was really no necessity +for such fretfulness. We had clean, sweet, fresh quarters, which to +me seemed perfect. + +So greatly, however, had the girl deplored the situation, that I +wondered she thought to better her condition by marrying a soldier, +who can often give his wife no shelter whatever; in fact, unless +permitted to marry by the consent of his officers, she is not allowed +to live in the garrison. + +That was a hard summer in spite of my joy at our return. Mr. Boyd +had been ordered to join his troop in the field immediately after +our arrival. I had a dear little house, and with new carpets and +curtains, and the absolute freshness of all, would have been happy +enough but for the load of debt that was constantly worrying me, and +the discontent of our servant, which made her incapable to such a +degree that I had to work so hard the flesh and strength gained by my +pleasant Eastern visit greatly decreased. Before the summer was over +I had lost twenty-five pounds. + +Our dear captain had taken unto himself a bride, and in accordance +with the usual army experience had been ordered away immediately on +reaching the post, where he had hoped to enjoy his wife’s society at +least for a while. But the fortunes of war are ever the same, and our +garrison was denuded of cavalry, which pursued Indians all summer. +The officers always had so many comical stories to tell on their +return, that even the bride failed to realize her husband’s danger, +and joined in the general laugh over those recitals. + +One night the Indians actually invaded camp, and the officers were +obliged to fight in their night clothes, having no time even to +slip on shoes, but rushed immediately into the inclosure, that +when camping was always formed by the wagons, and within which the +animals were led. Having succeeded in driving off the Indians they +laughed immoderately at each other, and considered the whole affair a +great joke. The colonel was unusually tall, the quartermaster short +and very stout, and each must have presented a comical appearance, +fighting for dear life in such attire. + +When absent on those expeditions the troop usually encamped on the +banks of some stream. On one occasion the river by which they had +camped rose—agreeably to the frequent custom of Western rivers—and +carried away everything on its banks. When it fell their huge +blacksmith’s forge was found imbedded in the opposite shore, an +eighth of a mile lower down. + +The rainy season in those south-western countries is mostly confined +to a few months, either in early spring or midsummer; and as no +warning precedes its coming, sad accidents not infrequently occur. +Sometimes in the course of a few hours a tiny little stream grows +into an angry, surging torrent, so great is the downpour even in that +short time. One dear woman, an officer’s wife, who was camped with +her husband on the banks of a river apparently in full security, lost +her life from that cause. + +A storm arose so suddenly, that, seeing their camp would soon be +under water, she took shelter in an ambulance, to be driven across +the stream to higher ground; but the treacherous current had grown so +swift and strong that she and their child, together with the driver +and mules, were swept away before the eyes of her husband, who stood +agonized and helpless on the shore. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + + +We were always delighted to welcome back the troops from their +Indian reconnoitering, life was so dull without them. During their +absence the garrison would consist perhaps of only one company of +infantry, with its captain and lieutenant; and if at headquarters a +quartermaster and an adjutant, with of course a doctor, who was our +mainstay, and to whom we rushed if only a finger ached. That summer +even the band was in the field, so we had no music to cheer us. +All was, however, made up for on their return in November, when we +inaugurated a series of hops that were delightful. + +The quarters at Fort Union had an unusually wide hall which was +superb for dancing, and three rooms on each side. We had only to +notify the quartermaster that a hop was to be given, when our barren +hallway would immediately be transferred into a beautiful ballroom, +with canvas stretched tightly over the floor, flags decorating the +sides, and ceiling so charmingly draped as to make us feel doubly +patriotic. + +Many ladies greatly dislike Fort Union. It has always been noted +for severe dust-storms. Situated on a barren plain, the nearest +mountains, and those not very high, three miles distant, it has the +most exposed position of any military fort in New Mexico. + +The soil is composed of the finest and, seemingly, lightest brown +sand, which when the wind blows banks itself to a prodigious height +against any convenient object. The most exposed place was between two +sets of quarters, which were some distance apart. The wind would blow +from a certain direction one day, and completely bank the side of one +house; the next it would shift, when the sand would be found lying +against the other. + +The hope of having any trees, or even a grassy parade ground, had +been abandoned long before our residence there; for either the +grass-seed would be scattered by the wind, or the grass actually +uprooted and blown away after it had grown. + +In 1886, when I again visited Fort Union, it seemed indeed a +cheerless place on account of the lack of verdure. The cause is +simply want of shelter; for with the ample water-works which have +been built since we lived there, much could be done if it were in a +less exposed position. + +Those sand-banks were famous playgrounds for the children. One +little girl, whose mother was constantly upbraiding her for lack of +neatness, contrasting her with our little daughter who was almost +painfully tidy, determining to be avenged, coaxed my child near a +large sand-pile and threw her down on it, saying, as she again and +again poured the dirt over her: + +“There, now! I am glad to see you as dirty as I am!” + +Every eye is said to form its own beauty. Mine was disposed to see +much in Fort Union, for I had a home there. + +When my husband returned from his long scout we rode horseback daily. +Our objective point was always the mountains, where trees and green +grass were to be found in abundance. One day when in the Turkey +mountains, about three miles from home, we saw two very ugly-visaged +men approaching. Some instinct, or kind Providence, warned Mr. Boyd +to keep a watchful eye on them, so he deliberately turned in the +saddle, and placing one hand on a pistol to show that he was armed, +watched them out of sight. One of the men, who turned back and looked +at us, also rested a hand on his hip where the pistol is carried. +Observing that we were intently watching their movements, they rode +on, leaving us unmolested. + +On our return we were greeted with the tale of a horrible murder +that had been committed on the very outskirts of the post. A soldier +messenger, who for ten years had carried the mail between Fort Union +and the arsenal, a mile distant, had been shot within fifteen +hundred yards of the garrison, and fallen lifeless by the roadside. +His horse, instead of being captured by the murderers as they had +hoped, galloped wildly toward the arsenal, and thus raised an alarm. +The murderers were actually in sight when the poor man’s body was +found, still warm, but with life extinct. + +A pursuing party was organized without loss of time, and on that +open, level plain the wretches were almost immediately captured and +placed in the guard-house. Mr. Boyd at once visited them, and found, +as he expected, that they were the same men whom we had met in the +mountains only a few hours previously. They would not, of course, +reply to his query why they did not kill us for the sake of the fine +horses we rode. He felt certain the murderers would be dealt with +as summarily, and told them so, as had been the poor messenger whom +they so foully murdered, and whose family was then suffering the most +poignant sorrow. + +Late that evening the civil authorities demanded the prisoners. Their +only safety lay in the commanding officer refusing the request; but +claiming that he had no authority for so doing, they were delivered +to the sheriff, though begging and pleading to be permitted to remain +in the guard-house. The men dreaded lynch law, but saw no mercy in +the faces of their jailers. + +After proceeding a short distance from the garrison, their escort +increased in numbers until soon an immense crowd surrounded them. Not +a sound was heard until the very verge of the military reservation +had been reached, yet a more resolute and relentless body of men +never marched together. + +The very moment the last foot of military ground had been passed the +sheriff was overpowered, evidently with no very great reluctance; and +the crowd, producing coils of rope, quickly proceeded to hang the +prisoners to telegraph-poles, where their bodies dangled for days, a +warning to all horse-thieves and murderers. + +For a time my rides were spoiled; but soon I grew brave again, though +we were always thereafter careful to be thoroughly well armed on +leaving home. + +I might multiply accounts of our experiences at various garrisons, +but it would take too long. In a monotonous life days slip away +almost unconsciously, and one is surprised to find how quickly time +has flown. Looking back, it seems incredibly short, because there +were no important events to mark its progress. + +We were so happily situated that I hoped to remain at Fort Union, but +as usual springtime saw us on the wing. It was undoubtedly a high +compliment to my husband that he should always have been chosen as an +administrative officer. It not only proved Mr. Boyd’s ability, but +was a testimony to his honesty, and thus a complete refutation of the +charges made against him at West Point. It was also a special honor +to be singled out from among so many men by the general in command +at distant headquarters; but an inconvenience, particularly when we +were at a very desirable post or station, to be ordered to a most +uncomfortable one. Fort Union seemed far enough from the railroad, +especially as our year East had made us anxious to be as near +civilization as possible. + +We were looking forward to a long stay at our pleasant post, when an +unexpected order came for Mr. Boyd to proceed immediately to Fort +Bayard, and build the officers’ quarters needed there. He kept the +news from me during the day of its arrival, because I was deeply +engrossed in preparations for a hop to be given at our house that +evening, and he did not wish to spoil my pleasure. + +The entire day had been spent in decorating the hall and preparing +supper. Unfortunately the first guest who arrived effectually +dampened my spirits by sympathetically exclaiming: + +“Isn’t it too bad you have to leave here?” + +I was too unhappy to enjoy a single moment of the festivities which +followed; but the arrival of the entire garrison, who danced and +otherwise greatly enjoyed themselves, left in my mind a picture of +pleasant army gayety surpassed by none. + +As usual I packed our household belongings with a heavy heart. That +move was decidedly for the worse; and even if the journey, with its +attendant fatigue and expense, had not been dreaded, I would have +disliked going to a place so much farther from the railroad, and +where so little could be expected in the way of comfort. + +Fort Bayard, six hundred miles south-west of Fort Union, and a +few miles distant from Arizona, was considered a most undesirable +locality, both on account of its remoteness, and because no houses +had then been built for the officers’ use. It required eighteen days +to reach our destination by ambulance, traveling about thirty-five +miles each day. + +After leaving Fort Union we went directly to Santa Fé, and saw that +quaint old Mexican town, then across to Albuquerque, down by the +borders of the Rio Grande to Fort Selden, and from there by ascending +grades to Fort Bayard, which was in the more mountainous region. + +The journey was like all others in which ambulances were used as +conveyances—tiresome and monotonous in the extreme, but in my case +always either modified or intensified by the gladness or reluctance +experienced in regard to our destination. In that case I was heartily +sorry for the move. We had been only nine months at Fort Union; my +baby was at a troublesome age and needed constant care, and for +the first time I was without a nurse of any sort. Besides, it was +mid-winter, and unusual care must be exercised to keep the children +warm when camping out, which we were compelled to do a part of the +time. The season was, however, too cold to permit of that when it +could be avoided, so we occupied Mexican houses almost every night. + +The houses were very warm and comfortable, but oddly arranged +according to American ideas. In place of windows there were merely +openings for air, tightly closed or covered by solid wooden shutters +at night. Several beds were ranged about the walls of each long, +oddly shaped room, which except for a primitive wash-stand contained +no other furniture. There was, however, always an open fireplace and +a cheerful blaze of mesquite roots, which emitted much heat, and a +curious odor that one never forgets. + +The food was always enjoyed, for after long, open-air rides no one +is ever very fastidious. Mexican cooking is not usually relished by +those unaccustomed to it, because always highly flavored with garlic, +much soaked in grease, and almost everything deluged with red pepper, +without a lavish use of which no Mexican can prepare a single dish. + +The most primitive mode of grinding corn—by hand between two +stones—was then still in vogue; and the tortillas made from meal +thus obtained, simply mixed with water and baked, were not only +very sweet, but strange to say also light, probably because of the +manipulation by skilled hands. They reminded me of the delicious +beaten biscuits prepared in the South, which are never fit to be +eaten anywhere else. + +The Rio Grande again became our constant companion, and we drove +for days within sight of its banks. How I envied the Mexicans who +were able to spend their lives on its sunny shores. Volumes could be +written about those peculiar people, with their almost deathlike calm +of manner, seldom, under any circumstances, varied; though sometimes +the fact is betrayed that volcanic fires slumber beneath, to be fully +roused and find vent only when their deepest emotions are stirred. + +When living among them one feels the necessity of absorbing some of +their traits, which are indeed needed in a country where progress is +unknown, and where the customs of centuries past still remain, not as +traditions but as facts. They were always kind and gentle, and such +devoted admirers of our fairer race as to make most admirable nurses +for the children, except for their over indulgence. + +The towns of Mesilla and Las Cruçes are as characteristic in their +way as any of old Spain, and quite as interesting. We passed through +both _en route_ to Bayard, and my pen would fain linger over their +many peculiarities. Several days elapsed after leaving the Rio Grande +before our arrival at Fort Bayard in New Mexico, where we prepared +to begin afresh the old story of life in a new garrison. Baby had +climbed over me until I was glad to rest on terra firma again. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + + +Fort Bayard, surrounded by high mountains, is pleasantly situated +in a very hilly region. The officers’ quarters face the Santa Rita +Mountains, which rise to an abrupt point directly opposite the post, +a few miles distant, forming a landmark which is not soon forgotten, +especially if constantly in view for three years, during which time +we had the good fortune to remain there. + +On the brow of that sharp decline, which rises almost at right angles +with the hill beneath, a large, irregularly shaped rock had fallen, +which bears a perfect resemblance to a kneeling figure, and faces +the higher point. It was called the kneeling nun, and, of course, +invested with the natives by a suggestive history! The suppliant +posture is perfect, and the figure conveyed to me a world of deep +meaning. + +That little corner of South-western New Mexico, in which we remained +three years, a length of sojourn so unusual and unexpected that every +spring I looked for an order to move, has an unwritten history which +would cover many pages. It is the mining region of New Mexico, and +has the most perfect climate of any in the United States, neither +extremely warm in summer, nor severely cold in winter; and the sun +shines at least three hundred days in each year with a warmth and +brightness which render life perfectly enjoyable, if spent out of +doors as it should be. + +The only real storms are in summer, when during the rainy season +clouds suddenly gather in the afternoon, and are followed by such a +downpour of rain, with perhaps thunder and lightning, that it seems +as if everything would be washed away. After the full force and fury +of the elements have been spent, every cloud disappears, and the day +ends with a perfect sunset, which is followed by a night still, +calm, and wonderfully beautiful. + +Occasionally, but not often, snow falls in winter; altogether, +the climate is perfect, and I have often since wondered why that +locality is not popular as a health resort, for a more bracing and +invigorating air is never breathed anywhere. + +On account of the infrequency of rain, vegetation is not very green, +but neither is it shriveled and parched. Cattle never fail to find +succulent pasturage in the bunch grass, which even when perfectly dry +is nutritious. But for the constant Indian depredations from which +that region has suffered for twenty years, it would be the garden +spot of the West. The climate is much milder in winter than that of +Colorado. + +Mines of every description have been found in New Mexico, from the +famous Santa Rita copper mines, which bear traces of having been +worked centuries ago, to more recently discovered ones of silver and +gold. These latter have caused the building of the only American +town, known there, Silver City, which, with its one hundred beautiful +red brick houses, is a wonderful place, considering the locality and +surroundings. All this is, however, more recent, although the town +had a number of fine residences when we were there nearly a score of +years ago. It is only an hour’s drive from Fort Bayard, over the most +lovely rolling mountain road, and the visits to Silver City were a +very pleasant feature of our life when at that fort. + +The Fort Bayard which first greeted our eyes was, except for climate +and scenery, a sorry place. It boasted a large garrison, but we were +shown into a perfectly miserable hut that was our shelter for months. +The cabins or huts in which the officers lived were directly back of +the new quarters, stone foundations for which had already been laid. + +The houses were to be built of adobe bricks, that were made by simply +mixing to a proper consistency with water the earth obtained from +excavating in front of our dwellings, shaping in primitive wooden +molds, and drying in the hot sun. + +All the workmen were slow-moving Mexicans, who built houses in the +same way as had their forefathers for generations. They knew no +meaning for the word “hurry,” so it took months to erect those simple +homes; and meantime we not only lived in wretched huts, but could not +venture out after dark for fear of falling into some one of the many +pits. + +Our experience was dreadful for one long year, then the houses were +finally completed. The ground had been so torn up that the least gust +of wind seemed sufficient to start all the loose earth in motion, +when we would be almost buried in clouds of dust; but our worst +trouble was during the rainy season. + +Our houses were situated on the brow of a hill, and when sudden +summer storms arose they washed right through the house. We preferred +to give them the right of way rather than have the buildings, +wretched as they were, entirely disappear, so the back doors would +be opened, and the storms permitted to sweep through before finding +egress at the front doors. The houses, so-called by courtesy, were +merely log cabins without floors; it was therefore necessary, at +such times, to mount on chairs or tables if we desired to escape +mud baths. The roofs, thatched with straw and overlaid with mud, +had a way of leaking that was apt to result in huge mud-puddles +being spread in all directions. The ladies always took refuge under +umbrellas until after the storms subsided. + +None could envy others, for all were in the same boat, with no +comforts whatever. Sometimes the whole roof fell in, but no one was +ever hurt, and on the two occasions which I recall, bachelor officers +were the sufferers. + +The lieutenant-colonel who commanded our post, having no family, had +kindly given his house to a little bride, whose husband was a recent +graduate of West Point. She, like myself, had started out expecting +to find all military stations like that lovely place, and had brought +from New York the most luxurious outfit ever seen on the frontier. +Magnificent carpets and curtains from Sloan’s, fit for any New York +palace, had been shipped all that long distance, and she proceeded to +lay the former directly over the mud floor in her house, and to hang +the latter at her little windows. + +The house was in every respect like all the rest, with three rooms +in a row, and one or two forming an ell; yet she had decked the +interior to look like a perfect fairy bower. The front room, that +opened directly out of doors, was the sitting-room; back of that was +a sleeping apartment, and then the kitchen. + +When the first severe storm arose and swept right through that house, +the rain coming in at the back and going out at the front door, I +never saw a more dismayed and discouraged woman than was our little +bride, and no wonder. Her fairy bower had been transformed into a +mud-bank; the pretty white curtains were streaked and discolored +beyond recognition, the carpets covered with mud, while the pictures +and ornaments were unrecognizable. + +That lady was like many I have met, both before and since. She +expected ordinary modes of life to prevail at the frontier, and had +carried with her at least a dozen large trunks, for which she was +glad to find simply storage, and whose pretty contents never saw the +light. + +Her experience was pitiable. Having an abundance of money, she +naturally supposed it would purchase some comforts; but money was of +no use to her there, and, indeed, seemed only an aggravation. The +little woman used to send East for articles, which for economy’s sake +the rest of us went without, and disappointments invariably followed. +Whatever was received—which would be only after almost incredible +waiting—was never what she had expected; and if garments had been +ordered, alterations which none but a skilled hand could make were +always needed. + +I remember being once consulted about a Christmas present designed +for her husband. She had decided upon a beautiful picture, which, +although ordered in ample time, did not arrive until long after +the holidays, and the express charges alone were fifty dollars. Her +disappointments were well-nigh endless, and led me to believe that +money was not so much a promoter of happiness in frontier life as it, +would usually be considered elsewhere; for no matter how much people +were able to spend they could not buy luxuries, and to send East for +them meant only tantalization and weary waiting. + +Perhaps some of my own experiences in the matter of express charges +may not prove uninteresting. Every woman is said to love a new +bonnet; but army women show the greatest unconcern regarding +fashions, probably because their lives are so different from those of +their city sisters. + +When some head covering became a positive necessity, we usually sent +East for a plain little hat, dark and useful, as it was needed mainly +for wear when driving around the country. I had quite worn out my +Eastern supply after a two years’ residence at Bayard, so ordered +a quiet little hat or bonnet from New York. Instead, I received a +very gaudy, dashing piece of millinery that would have been suitable +for the opera, but was altogether out of place on the frontier. The +bonnet cost twenty dollars, and the express charges were twenty-two. +For that entirely useless arrangement, therefore, I had to pay +forty-two dollars, and then had no bonnet, for I never wore it. + +That little lady had all the ambition and pride in a refined way +of living that naturally arose from having spent her early life +amid luxurious surroundings. She had passed several years in the +gayest capitals of Europe, had imbibed most extravagant ideas from +fond and indulgent parents, had scarcely ever known an ungratified +wish, and was therefore less prepared for the actual realities of +life, as developed at Fort Bayard, than any one else I have ever +known. The desire and attempt to live in accordance with her means +resulted in constant disappointments and trials. I have never seen +any one who worked so hard to accomplish what were considered simply +necessities, and yet whose labor was so entirely unrewarded. + +She wanted to entertain lavishly; and having beautiful table +appointments it was really a treat to dine at her house; but when +she told of the labor involved, by reason of incompetent help, the +task seemed too great to include any pleasure. Her utter ignorance of +household duties made her an easy prey to servants’ wiles, and the +very fact that she could so lavishly supply materials only made them +more ready to take advantage. + +She tried the same experiment we had—taking a servant from +New York—but fared even worse, as her maid left when Santa Fé +was reached, saying she did “not care to go any farther from +civilization.” The officer’s wife had no redress, although she had +spent quite a large sum both on the girl’s fare and baggage, as they +had traveled by stage. + +When, a year later, this same lady had a dear little girl born, she +offered, but in vain, fifty dollars a week to any one who would care +for herself and child. It was really pitiful to see the beautiful +young woman lying neglected, deprived of the most common care, when +if money could have availed she would have been enveloped in luxury. +Of course, attentions were received from other ladies, but hers was +one of the many cases I have known where Dame Nature alone was at +hand to assist. + +My pen glides lovingly over the paper when I begin to describe army +ladies, and fain would linger to fill page after page with loving +reminiscences of their sweet goodness and devotion to husbands and +the cause they represented. Surely in no other life can women be +found who are at once so brave and true. + +At each post I formed devoted attachments to some woman, and were the +love experienced for them all and their perfections to be described, +this book could contain little else; for one story after another of +their wifely devotion and absolute self-abnegation, carried to such +an extent as to be actually heroic, is recalled. + +No murmur was ever heard at the order to move, if women were to be +included; for no matter how hard, long, or wearisome the journey, +they were content if permitted to accompany their husbands. But when +the officers were sent away on the many expeditions cavalry service +demanded, where their wives could not go with them, then were they +indeed wretched; hours and days seemed endless until the return of +loved ones. + +This intense devotion was the cause of incessant hardships being +borne; for in many instances, if the ladies would have returned to +their Eastern homes, care and attention would have been bestowed +which can never be expected on the frontier. + +The difficulty of obtaining competent help in household cares could +never be surmounted. Even when near Mexican settlements we would find +that a long line of idle ancestry, together with every tendency of +climate, surroundings, and viciousness, had so developed indolence +in the natives as to utterly incapacitate them for any serious +employment. They were capable only of such tasks as allowed them +to bask in the sun and smoke cigarettes all day long. As they made +admirable nurses, and we liked to have our children live out of +doors, they could be utilized in that way; but heavier household +tasks were left for more energetic hands. + +When I think of that delicious sun and air, and recall those happy +days, I wonder how any thing can be remembered except the absolute +content experienced when we finally moved into our new quarters, and +regularly settled down into sweet home life. The children throve and +bloomed like flowers, and were never ill. + +In the South-western climate ordinary diseases do not prevail, and +if any of the epidemics which mothers usually dread break out, the +absolute pureness of the air renders them innocuous; and with even +ordinary care children speedily recover. Army doctors, in the double +capacity of physician and family friend, also give most extraordinary +care, so sickness is rarely fatal. Except from teething and its +attendant ills, babies are almost exempt from maladies, and children +live so secluded from outside influences that mine never even had +measles or any other childish disease. + +One beautiful babe died from teething, and during its illness every +lady in the post passed her entire time at its bedside when allowed +to do so. But that may be instanced as only one proof of the sincere +interest felt in each other by people who are isolated from all the +rest of the world. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + + +I have always thought army life would be delightful if there was the +slightest certainty of remaining at any post for a given length of +time; but this is so out of the question that many comforts which +might otherwise be procured are gradually tabooed. + +Officers become so accustomed to expect removal, that they are +unwilling to accumulate comforts which must be left when marching +orders are received; and every one is apt to give credence in some +degree to the rumors which continually gain ground, and usually +emanate from an unknown source, that a change is soon to be made. One +lives in a veritable atmosphere of unrest until it becomes second +nature. + +At Bayard, for the first time during our army life, we felt somewhat +settled. Cavalry service consists entirely of unforeseen emergencies, +dependent upon the country’s condition and its need for the movement +of troops, either in the pursuit of Indians or horse-thieves. As +Mr. Boyd had been sent to superintend the building of the quarters +at Bayard, we felt that unless his regiment moved he would remain +as quartermaster until they were completed, so quietly established +ourselves in one of the new houses to enjoy life and a more prolonged +stay than usual. + +We made many pleasant friends in the neighboring town of Silver City, +enjoyed a great deal of company from there, and always drove over to +the entertainments they gave, some of which were of a very comical +nature. + +Imagine a ball at which every element is represented, from the most +refined to the most uncultivated, from the transplanted branches of +excellent Eastern families, who lured by enticing descriptions of +great mineral wealth to be found at the West had gone there in search +of fortunes, to the rudest specimens of frontier life, who had never +seen anything else, and were devoid of all education, yet, like true +Americans, regarded themselves as the very quintessence of knowledge +and good-breeding. + +The balls were always held in the courthouse; and when, during court +session, the judge and attendant lawyers were to be honored with an +entertainment in consonance with their dignity, the rude room would +be cleared of benches just before the hour at which the dance was to +begin, and pretty dresses would trail over the floor which had not +been cleaned for weeks, and which was the recipient of every kind of +_débris_. + +At one of those balls, held immediately after court had adjourned, +the window-sills had been made receptacles for all such usual +appliances of lawyers as paper, pens, and ink. The army-post guests +laid their many wraps in one of those windows because there was +no dressing-room. In fact, such a luxury was unknown. When ready +to return home, our wraps were pulled down, and with them came +several bottles of ink, which sprinkled their contents liberally +over shawls and head-gear. As usual, I was a sufferer, and have to +this day, as memento of the occasion, a very handsome shawl that was +completely ruined. But to remain at home from the only pleasure our +circumstances afforded was not to be thought of, and fine clothes +were willingly sacrificed. + +We could rarely indulge in dancing-parties at Bayard because there +were so few ladies. When, occasionally, a special effort in that +direction was made, the fact that we had no proper dancing-hall +would be emphasized, and the large double parlors of our commanding +officer’s house utilized. With the facilities at hand for decorating +them with beautiful flags, cannon, stacked bayonets and swords, we +gave several dances, which contrasted favorably with the town balls, +and quite cured me of any desire to ever again dance on so different +a floor. + +Yet we sincerely enjoyed our Silver City friends, and our greatest +pleasure was to drive over and visit them, returning early in the +evening, very much fatigued, but happy because we lived near any sort +of town, instead of being cut entirely off from all outside life. + +Our cook often rebelled at the large parties of friends who sometimes +visited us unexpectedly, and, as before in similar experiences, +showed his displeasure by indulging too freely in “strong water.” +One day he notably distinguished himself, and almost extinguished +me, by reeling in before a whole party of friends who were awaiting +luncheon, and declaring that he was no slave, neither had he engaged +himself as a hotel cook. His freedom of manner was so natural among +frontier people, that every one laughed, and all sallied out in the +dining-room, where we passed around bowls of bread and milk. + +We had two excellent cows, and my delight was to work large rolls of +butter into dainty pats for the table. Never before or since have +I so enjoyed housekeeping as at Fort Bayard. Our chickens seemed +fairly to multiply, and I could keep no count of the eggs they laid. +We were able to supply every one, and still have quantities left for +our own use. + +I was in my element; for I found that by dint of judicious management +fifty dollars a month could be laid aside, so in two years’ time we +were entirely out of debt, and fully resolved never again to enter +the state. That was our golden harvest time, and I look back upon it +with unspeakable pleasure. + +I would like the ability to describe one beautiful friend who was my +constant companion at that time, but no pen can do justice to the +admirable traits of so perfect a woman. She is still with her husband +in the West, a pattern of all womanly goodness. Her example may well +be followed by all who leave good homes to follow their husbands in +army life, for only the absolute unselfishness she so beautifully +exemplified will enable women to endure the same hardships. It was +her sweet little first baby to whose death I have alluded, and which +left us all sincere mourners for her dear sake. She always reminded +me of the virtuous woman described in the Bible, whose “children +arise up, and call her blessed.” + +But I must not linger over those recollections of dear Fort Bayard, +where we enjoyed a real home for three years, and even flowers in +abundance. If people in civil life could know of the weeks and months +of care one little plant has often received from an army woman, +because a dear reminder of her distant home, they would understand +what a luxury it was to be able to raise flowers without any +particular effort. Though one loves work, yet it is pleasant to be +sometimes rewarded; and we had never before been where flowers could +be freely indulged in, nor have we since. + +There was another especial pleasure we enjoyed at Fort Bayard, which +to me is the chief charm of army life—constant rides on horseback. +At that post they were delightful; for, go where we would in any +direction, excellent mountain roads and superb scenery rewarded us. +Our favorite jaunt was to the Santa Rita mountains. Having gained +them, we would dismount and explore the famous mines which were +tunneled in so many directions that I always feared lest we should be +buried alive. Those tunnels had been dug centuries before, and the +then so-called “new industry” was but a revival of past labors. + +Mr. Boyd, true to his nature, which was to employ every moment in +devoted service to the government, rarely found time to escort me +until after the day’s duties were over; or we would arise very early +in the morning, and enjoy a ride that colored my mind for weeks with +a vague fancy that life was not altogether and entirely real and +practical, but was full of deep beauty; and if we could only live +more out-of-doors, and be permeated more often and thoroughly with +the charms of nature as seen in the early freshness and beauty of +such mornings as were those, we should be elevated, and enabled to +grasp more of spiritual things than tame and ordinary humdrum life +permits. + +Oh, I envy the woodsman who is content with nature, and never pines +for the artificial life of cities! Nature is perfect, and in such +deep solitudes the most prosaic minds must realize this truth. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + + +I have not very often referred in this volume to the character of my +husband, for in my opinion it needs no vindication. Mr. Boyd always +left in the minds of every one with whom he came in contact the +impress of a most noble nature. His devotion to duty was so extreme +that all else was laid aside at its call; and at Fort Bayard he so +entirely gave his whole time and attention to arduous and unremitting +labors as to scarcely find time for any pleasures. Mr. Boyd was as +much of a worker as ever can be found in civil life, where a man +expects reward for faithful service. In the army there is none. Of +course that is well understood, and any one who devotes his life to +duty there, does it purely from principle. + +Two singular occurrences, which have always been mysteries to me, +happened at Fort Bayard. We moved into the new quarters before our +new house—a double one—was entirely completed. The part in which we +lived was separated from the other by a wall that divided the halls, +and the unoccupied side was filled with shavings and _débris_. One +night after we had retired, some one laid a lighted candle on a large +pile of shavings, which of course caught fire, and we were awakened +from sound sleep by a strong smell of smoke. This was soon traced to +its source, and we found a fine fire rapidly developing. The floor +had burned away, leaving a cavernous depth beneath. + +It was unquestionably the work of an incendiary; and a few weeks +afterward the same wicked hand, presumably, fired a huge stack of +hay, consisting of the entire winter’s supply of six hundred tons, +which at frontier posts is always stacked near the corral and guarded +day and night by sentries. + +In that absolutely dry climate such a fire, when once started, has +no hindrance to its progress; and though every available hand was +quickly on the spot pouring water, of course it was a useless task. +Though a beautiful sight to see that brilliant blaze of light defined +against the clear, dark sky, my heart ached when I thought of the +trouble and worry it would cause Mr. Boyd, and also of the animals’ +deprivation. The entire summer had been required in which to procure +enough hay for so many; and the fire occurred in early winter, when +no more could be cut. + +It is a custom in the army at the slightest alarm of fire to sound +a call, which brings every man to the spot with a bucket in his +hand. It is really marvelous to see how soon ordinary fires yield +to army treatment. But if a high wind is blowing, the supply of +water, limited to barrels which are placed between the houses and +always kept filled, is insufficient, and little can be done to stay +its devastating progress. In spite of sympathy and real concern for +losses sustained, one is sure to enjoy the excitement. + +I witnessed one shocking fire at Bayard which broke out in a small +private stable attached to the post-trader’s house. It had made such +headway that when discovered three beautiful horses were already +enveloped in flames: they were fairly roasted alive before the eyes +of the assembled garrison. Most pathetic cries proceeded from the +helpless animals before death mercifully released them from their +sufferings. + +While the ladies sorrowfully looked on, the men spread wet blankets +over an adjoining roof in order that it might be saved; for if a tiny +spark had fallen on the dry shingles they would have immediately +ignited and the flames spread rapidly. + +After three happy years had been passed at that post, orders were +received to march into Texas and exchange with the Ninth Cavalry. + +Christmas Day was celebrated in camp, and in a double sense, for we +had that morning a narrow escape from almost instant death. + +On reaching the Rio Grande, we found the river fairly booming. +It was a glorious sight, swelled to a huge flood that swept past +in majestic grandeur. A primitive flat-boat worked by ropes and +pulleys—nothing but a rude raft with no railing or chain either fore +or aft—was called into requisition to ferry us across, and we sat +quietly in the ambulance while it was driven aboard. + +A superb dog that belonged to one of our friends, and had been our +pet for years, was inadvertently left standing on the bank. Some one +on the boat tried to induce him to swim across, making the same sound +in calling the dog that would have been used to start the mules. Our +four mules, supposing it was a signal to them, immediately started, +and the leaders’ fore feet were actually on the very edge of the boat +when a man seized them by their heads. Another second, another step, +and our heavy ambulance would have been overboard. + +So rapidly had the occurrence passed that almost before realizing an +accident was seemingly inevitable, we had been saved from a watery +grave. The river at that point was at least twenty feet deep, and had +the mules plunged in, sudden and swift death would have followed. + +I have never since been able to sit quietly in a carriage while +crossing a ferry; though of course no such rude craft, without even a +rope guard, can be found in civilized parts of the world. + +After all was over, I looked at my little children, so unconscious +of danger, and shuddered at the thought of the horrible fate we had +escaped. If people should dwell continually on the perils of Western +life they would be wretched. That journey embraced every element of +danger, and yet I actually became callous. + +Our mules were such superb animals, and so capable of swift progress, +that every few days they evinced a spirit with which I heartily +sympathized, running for miles and creating a profound excitement +throughout the entire command. As nine-tenths of Texas is flat +prairie with excellent roads, I rather enjoyed the sensation. Nothing +in my whole army experience wearied me so much as those endless days +of slow, monotonous travel. When with troops we could not go faster +than a walk, for the horses must be favored in order that their +strength might hold out during the weeks those journeys consumed; and +it was not safe, in the then unsettled condition of the country, for +us to ride far in advance. + +Our march occupied eight weeks; but some of the troops that were +ordered from Northern New Mexico to Southern Texas were between three +and four months on the road, and the chapter of incidents which beset +their path was remarkable. I have before alluded to this journey—the +one on which nine infants were born _en route_; and in every instance +mothers and children were obliged to proceed the next day, regardless +of health or even life. + +During one week of our march it rained day and night, and tents were +pitched in the midst of mud and general discomfort; but after a +cheerful blaze had been started in our little stove we did not mind +so very much, though of course it was not pleasant. The real trials +from which others suffered, and which were therefore kept constantly +in mind, enabled us to realize that, our lot might be much worse. + +The baggage of one woman, who had four little girls to clothe and +care for, was deluged in crossing the Pecos River, and the fact not +discovered until their destination had been reached, when the clothes +dropped in pieces on being touched. + +As each family packed all superfluities, and kept only a traveling +outfit, the trunks with reserve clothing were never opened while _en +route_; and the treacherous streams, that seemed shallow enough in +crossing, would often, in some inexplicable way, reach the contents +of the wagons. + +To me the strangest part of that journey was the passing over so much +territory without seeing any inhabitants. El Paso, then a mining-town +of very slight importance, was the last we saw in Texas. If there +were others in that section they could not have been on the traveled +highway; for except the military posts, we saw nothing but prairies, +which were indeed a striking contrast to our beautiful mountains. + +We had all sorts of experiences before New Mexico was left; but after +that we settled down to calm travel, which the children enjoyed so +much, and that was rendered less monotonous to me by the daily use of +a fine saddle horse, and a delightful gallop over tufted grass. + +We remained at Mesilla and Las Cruçes long enough to enjoy a ball +given in our honor by the residents; and there, for the first time, +we saw really beautiful Mexican women, who danced with all the grace +for which the Spanish race is noted. We were obliged to hasten our +departure, because the soldiers celebrated Christmas too freely; +during the ball a perfect battle was raging outside, which compelled +the officers to break camp and resume the march before daylight, +leaving us to follow. + +Those old towns of Mesilla and Las Cruçes would surprise any one +from the East. They are situated on the Rio Grande, and surrounded +by dense and forbidding sand-hills; but the location being such +that much irrigation is practicable, are simply the most fruitful +imaginable places. I have never anywhere else seen such absolute +abundance of fruit in its season; grapes such as only a southern sun +can ripen, and in immense clusters; peaches, large and luscious, that +loaded the trees till it seemed impossible they could bear the burden +and live; apricots, and every species of small fruits. The same +luxuriance prevails in El Paso, and the wine made there is pure and +delicious. + +It seems needless to dwell at very great length on that journey into +Texas, for all those marches were so monotonously alike. If, as in +that case, no Indian dangers were to be feared, both on account of +our cavalry escort, and because at that time no active Indian warfare +was in progress, we were not allowed to forget the possibilities in +that line. Not only were the usual sad reminders present in graves +that bestrewed the country, but we encamped again and again in places +where the most violent outrages had been perpetrated, and entire +parties mercilessly slaughtered. It cast a sad shadow over our +resting-places, which shrinking women would fain have escaped; but we +were obliged to use the same old accustomed grounds, and even then +could not always find enough water for the horses and mules. + +That journey was on a progressive scale; and guided by previous +experiences we had taken two wall tents, and even a board floor for +the outer one in which we dined. It was quite envied by other ladies, +particularly when we had ten consecutive days of rain; for boards, +even if laid on wet ground inside a tent, make a flooring quite +different and much superior to mud. Our floor was, of course, in +sections, otherwise it could not have been carried. Skins covered the +earth in our inner tent, which was furnished with two large beds. + +A fire was lighted every night in our tiny stove, and I made +chocolate, custards, and many other dainties. It would surprise +Eastern people, who deem all the modern conveniences a necessity, to +see how systematic even such a mode of life can be, when, knowing it +is to last for weeks and months, proper preparations have been made. + +On leaving home we had taken the housekeeping supplies that would +have been used had we remained stationary. So, when encamped in +different military posts, at which we always remained several days, +I occupied the time in making mince-pies and baking them in a Dutch +oven, which is nothing more nor less than a broad and shallow iron +pot, with a cover like a frying-pan. On this cover hot coals are +laid, so when the utensil is placed over a bed of the same, uniform +heat from above and beneath bakes admirably. + +It was a time of rejoicing when we could remain long enough at a post +to straighten out the tangled ends continuous travel always produces. +Journeying in that way with women and children necessitated laundry +work; and when we encamped on the river bank the scene was animated. + +Again our route lay for days beside the Rio Grande; in fact, during +our entire journey we left it only to make a _détour_ and return. +When finally our destination, distant Fort Clark, was reached, +we were but forty miles from that famous river, and nearly the +entire regiment was to find a resting-place on its banks; for soon +our encampments were dispersed from Eagle Pass, on the river, to +Matamoras, six hundred miles below, at its mouth. + +We heard so many wearisome accounts of those lower camps, with their +continuous heat and glare, as to deem ourselves fortunate in being +permitted to remain at one situated on a high hill, where we would be +sure of a breeze, however warm the Texas summer nights might prove. + +A large ball was given on our arrival, and the different posts at +which we had stopped _en route_—Forts Bliss, Davis, and Stockton—had +all honored us in the same way. + +We were obliged to remain in camp at Fort Clark ten days, as the +Ninth Cavalry did not leave sooner for New Mexico, and consequently +houses were not vacated. Never did the same length of time seem +longer or more tedious, the shelter of a roof once again was so +longed for. Finally we moved into a very comfortable little house, +built of limestone, and charming as to exterior; for even in the +month of February vines were growing rapidly, and beginning to cover +verandas with beautiful green. + +If each woman who has lived at Fort Clark would give a chapter of her +experiences while there, I know people would be interested because of +the utter novelty. + +No other army post has ever been the scene of so constant a +succession of regimental changes, and at no other have such a large +number of people, for the same reason, been made so uncomfortable. +However little there might have been to expect in all the other +territories in which we had lived, that little, when once obtained, +was kept; but at Clark no one seemed sure, from day to day, of any +house in which he lived remaining his own for a length of time. + +This arose partly from the fact of there being an insufficient +number of quarters, but mainly from the position of the post being +such that troops were sent there to be held in readiness for any +emergency—which was generally supposed to be impending war with +Mexico. + +We were so near the border that whenever any marauding band of +Indians or horse-thieves succeeded in capturing a herd of cattle from +some neighboring ranch, they would coolly slip over the Rio Grande +into Mexico with their booty; and by the time our troops, again and +again called out, could overtake them, the marauders would have +crossed the border, where capture was impossible, because Mexico +allowed no American forces to enter her territory without special +permission. + +Matters continued on that basis for years, infuriating our troops, +who were delighted when it produced results that seemed likely to +culminate in a war between the two countries. + +But that never occurred, though its threatenings filled our post with +troops until they formed a little army, which when mustered in full +parade stretched in double columns across the immense parade ground, +and made a beautiful sight; one which, seen daily, was so pleasing +that we almost forgot the discomforts of life that surrounded us. + +Our first home, a pretty little house with double parlors on the +ground floor and two large bedrooms above, seemed delightful; though +we had no furnishings for months, and simply used our camp equipage, +until carpets, etc., could be sent for. The climate was so fearfully +hot, bare floors were no hardship; and during the long summer which +followed our arrival, I was so absorbed in the problem of how to live +at all, that the absence of luxuries was unheeded. + +Leaving the bright and bracing climate of New Mexico for a country +where one hundred and ten degrees in the shade was only to be +expected, and for six months of the year, was indeed a transition. +Ice was an unknown luxury. We had nothing to use for cooling +purposes except the _ollas_, made of porous earth by Mexicans. + +The post was one hundred and thirty-five miles from San Antonio, +the nearest point where anything except absolute essentials could +be obtained; and as stages were the only means of transportation, +charges of course were exorbitant. Even in San Antonio there was none +but manufactured ice; and to transport it such a distance in so warm +a climate, required not only much sawdust to prevent its melting, but +also a heavy box, all of which multiplied its weight, and the express +charges, as I found to my sorrow. + +I never indulged in such luxuries; but an officer, who considered +himself indebted for kindnesses extended during a severe attack of +malarial fever, was most anxious to show his gratitude; and when I, +in turn, succumbed to the fever, that was epidemic, he sent me three +boxes of ice. I accepted the gift, though, not caring for the ice, +dispatched it to the hospital. Some months afterward we received a +bill from the express office which amounted to eighteen dollars. It +was the charges on that ice—which we paid. The ice having been sent +direct to us, so was the bill, instead of being presented to our kind +friend who never imagined the sequel. + +After our bountiful supply of good things in Bayard, we nearly +starved in Texas. The butter was simply oil, if procurable at all; +the milk thin—not tasteless, but with a decidedly disagreeable flavor +of wild garlic and onions; and the beef dry, and with so strange a +flavor we could not eat it. Vegetables could not be procured; and +potatoes shipped from a distance were a mass of decay when received. +I never knew a woman who, amid all those conditions of improper and +insufficient food and severe heat, did not lose health and strength. + +For two years I re-lived all my former experiences in trying to keep +house under every disadvantage. + +We had hoped much from the accounts of famous colored cooks, who, in +our experience, proved delusions and snares. We had a succession so +worthless that I never have overcome my prejudice against them. They +must have been field-hands, who trusting to our Northern ignorance +boldly announced themselves as cooks, when perhaps they had never +cooked even one simple meal before. Each was succeeded by a worse +specimen, until finally, in despair, I begged for a soldier. After +that, housekeeping became once again a pleasure, even if under +difficulties; for I had a willing coadjutor, who joined heartily in +my plans to disguise the flavor of meats by every art we could devise +in the way of seasoning. + +When the long, hot summer had worn its weary six months away, +we began to again breathe freely, and with the advent of cooler +weather found ourselves able to enjoy every pleasure. The heat had +been so intense that during its continuance life had been simply +endured. Then everything brightened and improved, as it always does +with custom or habit; or rather, we knew better how to overcome +difficulties as time and experience familiarized us with them. + +In the winter we not only had better beef, because of the grass +which had grown during summer, so the cattle were not obliged to eat +weeds and vegetables, but, for the same reason, our milk improved in +flavor; butter also kept its consistency. + +The experience of a little bride on whom I called one summer evening +will perhaps better illustrate the difficulties of housekeeping. In +reply to my inquiry if she did not find the enforced idleness because +of heat tiresome, she said: + +“I am never idle, because my entire time is occupied in keeping wet +clothes around the jars that contain our milk and butter.” + +In that atmosphere of heat, devoid of dampness, no sooner was a wet +cloth wrapped about a jar than it began to dry, and evaporation +cooled the contents. If in addition the jar was placed in a draught, +great results in that line were attained, but at the expense of +constant attention. + +One reason that made our army life endurable was the constant +exchange of grievances, and our real sympathy one for the other. A +group of ladies would naturally fall into conversation regarding the +peculiar trials of such a life, and yet not one of them could have +been persuaded to leave her husband and seek more comfortable and +civilized surroundings. + +Fort Clark eventually became very dear to me; but the first two years +were exceedingly trying, for I had to accustom myself anew to fresh +modes in every direction. The peculiarities of our colored servants +would fill a volume. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + + +It took our first colored cook, a huge, strapping creature, who +seemed a very giant in strength and stature, three days to scrub our +tiny kitchen floor; and his ideas, one of which was that he should +sleep until nine o’clock in the morning, nor did he awaken then +unless called, were not to be changed to suit our convenience. + +I remember so well our first breakfast! Rice batter cakes had been +ordered; but the strangest looking and queerest tasting dish was +produced, which, when questioned, the cook admitted was simply rice +and molasses mixed together and fried in much grease. + +Our last colored cook was so surly I was afraid of him, and rejoiced +when he was finally replaced by a white man. On leaving us he +moved to the little town of Brackett, and after only a few days had +passed, murdered a woman, and to hide his guilt burned the house. +Circumstantial evidence was so strong that he was captured and +imprisoned in the little jail, which, constructed of heavy stone, +was the only decent building in town. The murdered woman had been +the widow of a white soldier, and his comrades-in-arms determined +to avenge her. So, one night, under cover of the darkness, a number +stormed the jail. Though well guarded, and the thick doors seemingly +impregnable, they effected an entrance. + +Meantime the garrison was greatly alarmed, for the town was so +near we could hear the firing and tumult. The ladies were doubly +frightened, because each one’s husband had been summoned to march at +the head of his troops and quell the disturbance. + +All were terrified, scarcely knowing what had happened, and the +volume of sound that reached our ears made us dread untold dangers. +We were frightened at having been left alone, and more alarmed for +our husbands, because, in the promiscuous firing which began the +moment the troops reached town, we knew not what shot had or might +hit one of them. + +Altogether we were panic-stricken, and moments seemed hours until +the troops returned, which they did very soon, and without a single +officer or soldier having been injured, although the shots were +numerous enough to have killed an army. + +The jail had been forced before the arrival of the troops; but the +soldiers, though carefully searching every cell, had been unable to +find the prisoner, and, after vowing vengeance on the authorities for +having removed him, assembled outside, where they vented their wrath +and disappointment by firing against the heavy stone building. When +the cavalry reached the scene, and in their turn began to fire, every +man disappeared, escaping under cover of the darkness and confusion, +and found his way back to the fort, where at roll-call all answered +to their names as innocently as possible. + +The officers were inclined to condone the offense, both from sympathy +with the murdered woman’s friends, and also because the murderer was +such a despicable coward, as was proved not only by his taking a +woman’s life, but also in his behavior afterward. + +The first officer who entered the jail was Mr. Boyd, who was at +once told by the sheriff that the murderer was secreted on its +roof, which, unknown to outsiders, had a stone coping six feet high +that well concealed him. A more pitiable object was never seen; for +expecting every moment would be his last he was praying and groaning +in true darkey fashion, and had the tumult outside been less would +have been quickly discovered. + +Mr. Boyd tried to calm him, but it was useless; the man was so +thoroughly frightened he could not be silenced, but kept calling on +the good Lord for protection, and throwing himself about with the +most grotesque contortions of face and figure. + +The sequel proved the soldiers to have been right in not trusting to +the course of law, for in Texas no crime but that of horse-stealing +is considered deserving of hanging; the murderer was only imprisoned, +but fortunately for himself was taken to another county. + +On this occasion Mr. Boyd interviewed a murderer to whose tender +mercies his own family had been exposed, and after that I was allowed +to have a white cook; for although they sometimes indulged in +dissipation, colored men and women did the same, and there is no such +fear known on earth as that a woman experiences when confronted by a +drunken negro. + +The cavalry stationed at Fort Clark previous to our arrival had been +colored, though the infantry, which composed half the post, was white. + +Never having been South before, we had much to learn before a home +feeling was possible. The level country seemed strange after having +lived among lovely mountains, and we had a new set of insects to +deal with. I had thought nothing could be worse than my first +enemies, the wasps, but soon found the immense roaches with which +our house was actually crammed much more disagreeable. They not only +covered the kitchen floor until it was black, but actually flew +around our heads, and even invaded the bedrooms up-stairs until life +seemed intolerable. A thorough system of cleaning and scrubbing was +instituted; for they love dirt, which was, in fact, the original +cause of such an undue supply. We tried borax and all other known +remedies, and in time greatly lessened their numbers. + +A picnic in Texas was simply impossible on account of the red bugs +and wood-ticks, which were not only countless and disagreeable, but +so poisonous that I knew an officer, who had been obliged to camp out +on the ground, suffer so severely from their attentions that hospital +treatment was necessary for weeks. The sores caused by these insects +are frequently very painful, because they bury themselves beneath the +skin, and actually have to be dug out. + +The larger vermin, scorpions, tarantulas, centipeds, and snakes I did +not mind; for they never molested us, and, like the really weighty +trials of life, were more easily endured than minor ones. I speak +from actual experience, having lived out of doors during our five +years residence in Texas, and allowed my children to enjoy themselves +in the same way, both because I deemed it necessary to health, and +because observation had convinced me that those ladies who did +otherwise suffered indescribably from fear; while to us, after we had +settled down, every moment was a joy in spite of heat and vermin. + +One evening a lady caller started frantically for the door +immediately after having entered. The cause of her terror was a +huge tarantula or spider of the most deadly sort, black, ugly, and +venomous, which measured fully three inches around the body. I picked +up a heavy basket and killed it. She called me very brave; but I +thought greater bravery would have been required to permit it to +live, when perhaps it might bite one of my children. + +Our first winter at Fort Clark was delightful. All had comfortable +double houses; and I felt very proud because of the bright, pretty +carpets and lace curtains that had been sent from the East. The +troops were called out only occasionally for Indian raids, but never +went farther than the river which divides Texas from Mexico. + +We enjoyed the game, which was so plentiful that delicious wild +turkey could be enjoyed every day if desired. The one vegetable that +grew almost spontaneously was sweet potato, which we luxuriated in +for months, as it improved by keeping. + +I scoured the country on horseback in all directions, and found a +rare charm in those boundless prairies, carpeted with gray grass so +thick the horse’s hoofs sank far out of sight, which made the pace an +exhilarating bound. A stream, which rose from the clear spring that +supplied us with water, flowed for miles amid groves of wild oak and +pecan trees which it was my delight to explore. + +We hunted jack rabbits a good deal. They were so numerous as to +destroy all hopes of the gardens in which the early freshets had +allowed us to indulge. A lady just from the East was appalled when I +said that each small head of cabbage cost a dollar, and was really +worth it; for the man who had sufficient enterprise to evade rabbits, +and build walls against freshets, must also examine each cabbage leaf +three times a day in order to destroy the ever encroaching worm or +bug. This will not seem exaggerated to any one who has ever gardened +under similar conditions. + +Our little streams were beautiful, and so well stocked with delicious +bass and trout that the children used to beg to picnic: after a day +thus spent, it would take hours of diligent search to find the dozens +of wood-ticks and tiny red insects which covered their clothing and +buried themselves in their tender flesh. Sometimes one would escape +notice, and be afterward found with head imbedded beneath the skin, +and body distended to treble its original size. + +Those torments made scouting in Texas a thing to be dreaded; and yet, +after the first year of quiet, our cavalry were kept in the field +nine months out of twelve. Though encamped most of the time on the +banks of a stream only seven miles distant, yet none the less they +were separated from us, and as the officers’ wives said, “Compelled +us to keep up two messes, and incur great expense, besides being +lonely and forlorn.” + +The sun’s scorching heat made it impossible to raise any flowers, +for if plants grew and budded the fierce heat would burn the outer +petals so blossoms never fully opened. Only one plant, the Madeira +vine, throve there, and it was esteemed a special luxury; for as +the post was located on a high limestone ridge, and the houses were +built of limestone, the white glare was something to be dreaded. +Those luxuriant green vines covered our porches so closely as to form +perfect little arbors, and enabled us to enjoy out-of-door life. +At least two hammocks were swung on every veranda, and they were +occupied most of the time, for the air was so hot and lifeless that +effort was impossible. + +Only one of the five summers we passed at Fort Clark was cool and +comfortable. That year the rainy season commenced late and lasted +throughout the summer. The other four were so fearfully hot and +uncomfortable that we were much exhausted when cooler weather arrived. + +Nevertheless, strange as it may seem, after we had once become +accustomed to the life and that routine which alone makes existence +in warm countries endurable, we were satisfied. + +During the day our costumes were the lightest and airiest that +could be devised. But when evening came—and no woman ever ventured +out-of-doors until after sunset—we arrayed ourselves in pretty white +dresses, and started forth to enjoy the breeze, whose never-failing, +grateful presence was compensation for the day’s intense heat. + +In that clear atmosphere the tiniest arc of a moon gives more light +than does a full one under other conditions; so by the time its +greatest splendor was reached, nothing on earth could have surpassed +the perfect beauty of those southern nights. The air was soft and +balmy, and every one rejoiced to find respite from the sun’s extreme +heat. Indeed, the change was so grateful that we fell into a habit of +almost turning night into day in our unwillingness to leave a scene +of such enchantment. + +Even our unsheltered, gray parade ground, on which grass absolutely +refused to grow, was softened by the moon’s mellow rays into a +semblance of all we desired it to be; and when, night after night, +our glorious band played entrancing strains of sweet music on the +luminous spot, we felt that life in the tropics was not so very +unendurable after all. + +Our limestone houses, which in the daytime could not be looked +upon because of the blinding glare, were toned by the moon’s magic +influence into poetic beauty, with their shading vines and groups of +dainty ladies in white, and gallant officers in uniform. + +I became wedded, heart and soul, to that part of our life, which made +me quite willing to live and die in Texas, despite many more prosaic +drawbacks. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + + +That unpleasant features were there is not, however, to be denied; +and as my aim is to present both the lights and shadows of army life, +I will now describe a few of the latter. + +As before stated, the supposed impending war with Mexico was the +occasion of an influx of troops far greater than our post could +comfortably accommodate. After we had been at Fort Clark a year and +a half, occupying that pretty, vine-embowered house, we learned that +our garrison of ten companies was to be increased to twenty-five, +with two headquarters and two bands. + +The custom that obtains throughout the army of each officer selecting +according to his rank the quarters which he may prefer, was never +more fully enforced than at Fort Clark. Fifty times, perhaps, there +was a general move of at least ten families, because some officer had +arrived who, in selecting a house, caused a dozen other officers to +move, for each in turn chose the one then occupied by the next lower +in rank. We used to call it “bricks falling,” because each toppled +that next in order over; but the annoyance was endured with great +good nature. + +When tidings of such an unusual expected influx reached our ears, we +wondered what would become of us, as there were not accommodations +for half the number who were to arrive. An onlooker would doubtless +have found the anxiety experienced by the officers’ wives amusing; +for though prepared for the worst we were, of course, solicitous. + +I was ill at the time, confined to my room; and messages were brought +at intervals from six different officers, who all outranked Mr. Boyd, +that each had selected our house. Ridiculous as it may seem, every +one was outranked by another. Finally, a captain of infantry chose +our quarters, and then the doctor declared I could not be moved; +consequently, the captain went temporarily into the house which we +were eventually compelled to occupy. + +Next day our third child and second son was born. During the entire +time of my recovery I indulged a delusive hope that the officer who +had chosen our home would be content to remain in the little house he +was then occupying, and which I dreaded to think of living in because +it was so small for our increased family. Delusive hope! built +entirely upon my belief in, or knowledge of, our respective needs. I +felt that a bachelor could live less inconveniently in one room than +could a family of five. + +The very day our baby was born the little fellow contracted +whooping-cough from his sister, who, charmed to welcome a new +brother, had repeatedly kissed him. I had no idea such a disease was +in the garrison, and when we learned of it the harm had been done. +Not only did all three of our children suffer in the most pronounced +fashion, but it was pitiable to see and hear that tiny baby coughing +violently before he was two weeks old. He would turn so black in the +face, perhaps a hundred times a day, that his nurse hardly dared +close her eyes, as it would be necessary to raise the infant to a +perfectly erect posture to prevent his strangling. + +In spite of baby’s sufferings he never lost flesh, which the doctor +said was marvelous, for my neighbors declared they could hear him +cough a hundred yards away. Our anxiety was great, and Mr. Boyd was a +veritable slave. + +For a week I was at death’s door with fever; and yet the very day +baby was four weeks old we were obliged to move, that the captain, +who demanded his house without further delay, might be accommodated. +Each of the children caught cold, and bronchitis was added to +whooping-cough; in consequence of which, during that and the +succeeding winter, I always slept with one hand under baby’s head, in +order to raise him suddenly when attacked by those terrible fits of +coughing. + +When I state that our new house consisted of but one room, with a +tiny addition back which was quite uninhabitable, and that we lived +in such quarters for two long summers and winters, it will scarcely +be believed. But even those meager accommodations were not deemed a +very severe hardship by many of the ladies who had been at Fort Clark +for years before the new quarters had been built, and who told tales +of far greater crowding. + +Among others, the case of a little bride was cited, who, coming from +a luxurious Eastern home, had been glad to find quarters in a hallway +between two other families. One morning her husband was told that +some superior officer wanted his hall, and disgusted he resigned. + +The recital of many such absolutely true tales might, perhaps, have +comforted me in some measure, had we not already endured ten long +years of hardships; and it seemed as if the time should have come +when length of service counted for something. + +But it never does in the army, as possibly only those know who have +realized the fact through actual experience. There one must endure +all discomforts as uncomplainingly as possible, and meekly relinquish +the refinements of life, which such a mode of living absolutely +forbids. For a family of five to live in one room through two +fearfully warm summers and two winters was far from pleasant; and in +order to relieve ourselves of discomforts so far as was possible, we +remained out-doors on our pleasant porch nearly all the time. + +The winters were delightful in that part of Texas, and yet very +trying. The only really cold weather there is caused by the +“northers,” which come up so suddenly as to render it out of +the question to be prepared for the change. A norther is always +preceded by a very sultry day; then the thermometer falls perhaps +fifty degrees in an hour, and there is something in the chill north +wind which seems to freeze the very blood in one’s veins. When, in +addition, a rainstorm follows, it is little wonder that the cattle +interests of Texas suffer, for no living creature can well exist in +such an atmosphere when exposed. + +Our little back room faced the north, so we could not use it in +winter, for the tiny house, built of wood with a canvas ceiling, +was then like a barn; and it was so old that in summer the canvas +and woodwork harbored every species of vermin, with which it simply +became alive. + +I was awakened one night by the raging of a violent storm that seemed +to shake the house to its foundations. The rain descended with such +force that I expected every moment the roof would fall in. A glance +showed me water pouring in under the door which separated the small +back room from the larger one in which we slept. I quickly arose +and stepped into the little room to find myself literally wading in +water which reached above my ankles. The fierce storm had beaten in +the old, weather-worn roof, and through a large hole which had been +forced in the canvas ceiling a stream of liquid mud was pouring that +deluged everything. The opening was directly over an open bureau +drawer, the contents of which were a strange sight. The mud was +formed by rain falling on the accumulation of dirt that miserable old +canvas held; and before the storm had ceased our possessions were +worthless, and the room, which within our knowledge never had been +worthy of the name, was still less so. + +Every house in the post was in a wretched condition long before +morning, and each woman thought that her individual experience could +not be exceeded in misery. + +It was so common for roofs to leak and plaster to fall that we +expected such mishaps; but fortunately, because they left more +serious trouble in their wake, such furious storms were not frequent. +One lady, a bride, who until that night had seen only the bright side +of army life, decided that if such experiences were common she did +not care to become accustomed to them; so one result in that instance +was her husband’s resignation from the army. + +A large double bed stood in one corner of our only room, and in the +other a lounge that could be used for the children at night. Over +our bed I swung a hammock, which served admirably for baby’s cradle, +and as an economy of space it was a great success. But during warm +weather the porch, as already stated, was our dwelling-place, and +at night the hammock suspended there was frequently occupied by Mr. +Boyd; for in such a climate to sleep with four other persons in one +small room was not very refreshing. + +We were, however, very gay through all our miseries and deprivations; +for with seventy-five officers and forty ladies in the garrison +many pleasures could be enjoyed. During the first winter we had a +series of balls for the exchange of regimental courtesies. Those +already stationed at Fort Clark gave a large ball to welcome the +new-comers, even if they did turn us out of houses and homes, which +courtesy was returned by a very grand affair. Then each regiment—six +were represented, two of them colored—extended hospitalities on +its individual account, and each vied with the others in somewhat +varying the character of the entertainment. + +Following that, the bachelors gave a large german where the favors +were superb. Then the ladies united in a New Year’s reception, +which was said to surpass all the rest. Afterward we had weekly +hops, a masquerade and phantom party, at which it was difficult to +hide our identity; for in a garrison where every personal trait was +necessarily observed, to disguise one’s individuality was not easy. +Probably the officer who entered the room encased in a well-stuffed +mattress did so most effectually. + +Studying how to puzzle the rest was great fun. So many amusements, +combined with the real kindly feeling constantly evinced, made our +social life very enjoyable. Every excuse for pleasant intercourse +was freely sought; and so long as life lasts I shall remember those +years at Fort Clark as not only joyous, but given up to experiences +so distinctly different from all others as to merit perpetual and +delightful recollection. + +In the first place, every one lived out-of-doors nine months of the +year. That necessitated, or made more easily possible, a constant +interchange of friendly remarks, and we became more like one large +family than like strangers. Our interests were identical. If any +change was made, it affected so many that all were drawn together by +that “fellow feeling which makes us wondrous kind.” + +When troops were ordered away, their departure was dreaded because +the officers’ society would be greatly missed. If new-comers arrived, +as they constantly did, we welcomed them cordially. Every time +an inspecting officer or one of high rank came to Fort Clark, as +frequently happened, we rejoiced in the opportunity to give a ball +in his honor, and the band serenaded him each night of his sojourn; +in fact, nothing was lacking that would prove our hospitality and +cordiality. + +Riding and driving parties were indulged in daily; for fully half of +the officers stationed at our garrison were in the cavalry, and in +addition to their mounts had fine carriages. When the cavalry were +sent to graze their horses near streams, and permanent camps were +thus established, we visited them frequently. In turn, they combined +their forces and gave grand picnics, which were so successful we were +enraptured. + +One night I shall never forget. The moon shone her best and brightest +on a smooth stretch of canvas, spread so as to form a splendid +dancing-floor, and on trees hung with fairy lanterns, which extending +as far as the eye could reach met as background the pretty little +stream on whose banks lovers wandered. Of course, in that region of +soft tropic warmth and fervor, romance blended with everything; and +no eligible young lady was ever known to leave Fort Clark without a +tiny circlet on her finger, which proved her right to return as an +officer’s bride. + +Meantime, rumors of war kept increasing, and finally all our troops +were marched into Mexico during the hottest month of the year. This +was, however, done merely as a menace; for in a week’s time they +returned, having faced the Mexicans on their own ground without +even exchanging shots. Blistered feet and swollen limbs, gained by +marching through parching sands, were the only reminders of the +affair brought back. + +Soon after, Mexico arranged new terms with our authorities, in +accordance with which incursions over the border were allowed when +our troops were on the trail of desperate adventurers who were +escaping with much booty. This caused the withdrawal from Fort Clark +of the gallant cavalry regiment, which with our own had hoped to reap +a little glory from the strained relations between our country and +her sister republic. + +Courtesies were exchanged between leading officers in the Mexican +and American armies, which we shared in by giving a grand ball to +the general and staff of the Mexican army on their visit to our post +while negotiating terms of peace. Our third winter at Fort Clark was +brilliant socially. We organized a theatrical company, which gave +with great success a number of popular plays, including “Caste,” +“Ours,” and several farces that were a source of much merriment. The +soldiers were allowed to fill the hall to its utmost capacity, and +their appreciation was an additional reward for our efforts. + +I doubt if anything can be funnier than a familiar face and form +rendered unrecognizable by an absurd and ridiculous disguise. The +night “Caste” was produced, I excelled myself in so completely +changing Mr. Boyd’s appearance that his entrance on the stage as +“Old Eccles” was greeted by loud and long-continued shouts, which +ceased only to be again and again renewed. It was the success of the +evening. In our sentimental parts Mr. Boyd eclipsed us all, and was +the cynosure of all eyes in his maudlin drunkenness. + +After having studied the book of directions until I understood how +to make my husband look utterly disreputable and unlike himself, I +delighted in having him assume various odd characters; for the moment +he appeared before an audience, deafening applause invariably greeted +him. + +We worked as hard to secure the success of our plays as though +fortunes had depended upon it, and unhesitatingly robbed our houses +of ornaments in order that the stage might present an attractive +appearance. + +I would not like to be a professional on the boards if it +necessitated as much real labor as did our amateur performances. But +we soon found that a good paying audience could readily be commanded, +and after the first few evenings raised money enough to build a very +pretty stage, and completely renovate the only hall in the garrison, +which had been used for church, schoolroom, ballroom, and theater for +years without any improvements or alterations having been made, and +was in sad need of the new floor and ceiling our money supplied. + +We also gave performances for several charities. One for the +famishing Irish, when we “Caste” our bread upon the waters, was +especially successful; and when at the approach of Christmas, money +was needed for a tree with which to gladden the hearts of the +soldiers’ one hundred little children, we had an immense audience. + +The actors afterwards went to San Antonio, where they played for the +Masonic fund; and also to a little nearby town where a church was +greatly needed. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + + +It was customary for companies of Mr. Boyd’s regiment to be sent for +six months to garrison the forts on the Rio Grande, which were close +by; our turn came when we had been two years at Fort Clark, which we +left reluctantly. + +No station immediately on the river was ever considered desirable, +on account of its unfailing sand and heat; and Fort Duncan, to which +we were assigned, had no comfortable houses. It was only forty miles +from Fort Clark, and as but two companies of infantry were stationed +there, the small garrison was inevitably dull. + +Our dwelling consisted of one room in a very dilapidated building. It +had been previously used as a store-room, and the barred windows made +it seem prison-like. + +The kitchen was so far away that a complete circuit of the house was +necessary in order to reach it, and the dining-room was a part of the +kitchen. + +Our sorrows were added to when our beautiful ponies, that had borne +us about the country for miles in every direction during our stay at +Clark, and which I had confidently expected would relieve the tedium +of life at Duncan, were attacked by glanders and ordered shot. In +spite, however, of this caution, the contagion spread; and before +another month Mr. Boyd’s splendid charger, and our other dear little +Mexican pony, had also been condemned. Thus we lost four horses +within one month, and I would have been in despair had we not found a +superb riding-horse in the troop, which proved so safe and reliable +that I was often tempted to go far beyond proper limits. + +One day, when riding alone, I espied smoke; ahead, and idly followed +in its direction until I found myself facing a house which I recalled +as having been described to me as a den of horse-thieves. My mount +was superb, but I was nine miles from home and conscious that rest +was imperative. I dismounted, led my horse to the house, and asked +for water. The man who appeared not only gave me that, but also +coffee; and when I related the loss of my ponies, offered to sell me +a fine pair very cheap. + +I used my eyes to good advantage, not neglecting to notice a ford, +directly in front of the door, which could be utilized at a moment’s +notice for horses to cross into Mexico. But that was none of my +affairs, and like all rough frontiersmen mine host of the hour was +exceedingly polite. He led up for inspection several pairs of fine +ponies. I did not, however, buy any, as I feared the owners might +meet me some day and claim their property. + +After a brief rest I remounted, and on reaching home found that my +absence had been of five hours’ duration, and the entire garrison was +alarmed. + +We remained at Duncan all that winter, and aside from daily rides +our only amusement was a trip across the river into Mexico. The +quaint old town of Piedras Negras lay directly opposite Fort Duncan; +and the same style of primitive boats as were used in New Mexico, +and on one of which we came so near to losing our lives, was there +employed to ferry us across. We were able to enjoy everything Piedras +Negras afforded in the way of sight seeing, having arrived just +before the yearly _fiesta_, which is the gala time among Mexicans. + +The town, like all I saw in Mexico, was built around squares called +_plazas_. These were occupied during the _fiesta_ as booths for the +sale of curiosities, and also for that sport so dear to Mexican +hearts—gambling. Any game could be indulged in, from three card monte +to roulette; or, if disposed, visitors might partake of Mexican +viands, served by bashful señoritas clad in pretty Spanish costumes. + +The climax of festivities was, of course, bullfights, when the large +amphitheater would be crowded by an excited Mexican audience. Having +heard so much of those affairs, we were, of course, eager to see one; +but our curiosity was soon satisfied, for a more tame encounter I +never beheld. + +The poor bull absolutely refused to fight, and, after having been +goaded and prodded by the matador with sharp-pointed spears, gayly +ribbon-bedecked, kept turning wistfully toward the door by which he +had entered, and every now and then rushed to it, only to be met by +more spear pricks, which, though causing his blood to flow, served +only to still farther intimidate the poor animal. Finally, amid the +shouts of the people, he would be dispatched and replaced by another, +that invariably showed the same want of spirit. + +To American on-lookers it seemed a cruel sport, unworthy its historic +greatness. + +The only delightful features connected with that so-called pastime +were the perfect Mexican band and superb drilling of Mexican +soldiers, who marched and countermarched for at least an hour without +a single order being spoken, they responding merely to a tap of the +drum as each new movement was initiated. + +The band was superb, and the music so sweet and thrilling we could +have listened for hours without weariness. On account of exchanging +many hospitalities with the Mexican officers, we enjoyed numerous +opportunities of hearing it. + +On one occasion the band was brought over to serenade us, and we +listened as in a dream to its rendering of various operas and Mexican +national airs, played with such expression that all the sentiments +they indicated were aroused. + +The perfect submission of Mexican soldiers, and the never-ending +drilling they received, made them more thorough than our own, who +never could have been kept in such slavish subjection. The Mexican +soldier is usually born a _peon_, or slave, and never dreams of +resenting the will of his superiors—nor of having one of his own. + +Those men were drilled hours before dawn, and that they might be in +good marching order were compelled to walk ten and even twenty miles +a day out in the open country. + +We were invited to all balls given by the Mexican officers, and +found them curious affairs. The women’s costumes were tawdry in +the extreme, and their manner of dancing so slow as to seem most +monotonous; yet I have never seen more perfect natural grace anywhere +displayed than in those measured Spanish dances. + +The variety those balls afforded was quite enjoyable until one night +a Mexican officer of high rank drew a pistol and fired directly at +a man who moved too slowly out of his path to suit the officer’s +dignity. I never attended another ball, being unwilling to witness +such scenes. We had also experienced much difficulty in crossing the +Rio Grande at night; so I was glad of an excuse to remain our side of +the river after dark, but loved to drive over in broad daylight, when +I felt safe and could avoid all midnight perils. + +It always seemed to me as if the suave Spanish politeness of those +Mexican officers concealed smoldering volcanoes. I have known an +officer to shoot a soldier dead at the first hint of insubordination. + +We remained at Fort Duncan until early spring, when the mesquite +trees, which beautified the parade grounds, were clothed in a tender, +fresh green whose tint I have never seen equaled. Our recall to Clark +by exchange in March was heartily welcomed. + +A cloud, however, loomed on my horizon in the certainty that I +must soon leave our dear army life for the East. It is never +deemed prudent to remain long in so debilitating a climate, and +malarial fever had fastened itself upon both our elder children, +completely reducing their strength. We had, however, great cause for +thankfulness in their being spared; for the disease was unusually +fatal that season, and, indeed, for three long weeks the lives of our +little ones hung in the balance, while fear and anxiety harassed our +souls. + +Texas malarial fever burns with an unremitting ardor nothing can +quench until its course has been run. Our good doctor almost lived +with us; and whenever the temperature rose above one hundred and two +degrees he would plunge our little boy into a tub of the coldest +water procurable,—no ice was to be had,—and hold him there until the +child’s body became blue, and his teeth began to chatter, when he +would be wrapped in blankets, and hot bottles placed at his feet. + +Heroic treatment that could not fail to wring a mother’s heart! When +our little daughter fought the same hard battle for three long weeks, +and came out from it a perfect shadow, with her head bald as any +infant’s, I realized that our physician was right, and that I must +leave Texas or we should lose our children. + +Better educational facilities also seemed imperative. Thus far I +had taught the little ones, and they were well advanced, but no one +expects to find very desirable schools in the wilderness; so we +began our preparations for departure, feeling that years must pass +before we could again settle down, as education had become the most +important need. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + + +Exactly ten years from the day we had left New York I returned. My +heart was so bound up in frontier life I had hoped until the last +moment that the spring rains, which had been unusually severe, would +keep us storm-bound in Texas. The town of Brackett had been flooded +just before our departure, and the post, from its high and dry hill, +looked down upon a scene of devastation and misery. Every house on +the low lands was undermined, and many were washed away; the people +sought refuge in trees, where they were obliged to remain for hours, +until assistance in the shape of boats reached them. + +Of course, as in all scenes where the colored race is conspicuous, +several ludicrous incidents occurred. One old mammy, who weighed at +least two hundred pounds, in her joy at being rescued, fell into the +arms of an unusually small white soldier, and swamped herself, the +soldier, and the boat. + +Days passed before the water subsided, and in consequence our journey +was delayed a month; as with four days of ambulance travel to San +Antonio we did not dare start until the roads were dry. I was wicked +enough to hope they never would be in condition for travel; but when +the mail again reached us regularly there was no farther excuse for +delay, and with tearful eyes I bade adieu to dearly loved Fort Clark. + +Many of the ladies thought my unwillingness to leave Texas could not +be really sincere, a change seemed to them so desirable. But my fears +that I should not feel at home in civil life, where everything was so +different, were verified. + +Four days’ travel by ambulance through deep mud was required to reach +San Antonio. We did not tarry to explore that curious old town, but +stepped immediately on board a train for Galveston, where we arrived +in twenty-four hours. At that place I parted from my husband, and +took a steamer for New York. Seven days’ passage over Southern and +into Northern seas brought us to the city, where our children saw +civilization for the first time within their recollections. + +It is needless to recount our experiences in New York, or rather +Coney Island, where we remained through the summer, and which was +just the place for little barbarians to see strange sights and become +familiarized with strange scenes. + +After all the frontier travel and its dangers through which we had +passed, it seemed odd that this land of safety should hardly have +been reached before we narrowly escaped serious harm. I chose the +boat as a means of transit to Coney Island; and when we reached the +pier found that our trunks had not arrived, and so waited hours for +the expressman, who did not come until very late in the day. + +I was overwhelmed with our belongings, which consisted of two +large trunks, the same number of hand-bags, an immense valise, and +a violin. After we had boarded the boat and fairly started on our +way, I was dismayed to find night rapidly approaching, and most +ominous-looking clouds arising. They proved precursors of a furious +storm, the violence of which reminded me of those experienced while +at the West. Much damage was done in and around New York Harbor. + +When we neared the island after a terrifying trip, I saw to my horror +that the boat, instead of landing at the first and completed iron +pier, passed it, and made for the uncompleted pier, which jutted much +farther out into the ocean, and at that time was simply an uncovered +walk about a quarter of a mile in length. + +Nothing, however, could be done except land—with three children—and +stand in the maddest rush of rain to which I had ever been exposed, +watching our trunks and bags tumbled out into the storm. Aware that a +few moments’ exposure to such a torrent would ruin their contents, I +looked, but in vain, for a means of conveyance to the hotel. No one +was in sight, the few passengers who had landed having immediately +hastened away; and as we were being completely drenched, I decided to +leave the baggage to its fate. + +Carrying as much as possible in my hands, I sent our little girl in +advance with her small brothers. Judge of my horror when suddenly I +saw the piles of boards that were stacked in readiness for roofing +the pier, moving and actually filling the air on all sides. The +children were directly in the path of that furious hurricane, and +I could only helplessly watch them. Fortunately it did not last +long; and my little daughter was wise enough to race ahead with +her brothers, so no damage was done except the loss of both the +boys’ hats, which blew into the ocean. Then the rain descended with +redoubled force; but some one compassionately let us into a little +house built for the workmen, where, terrified beyond measure, we were +shut in with darkness. + +I was all the while worrying about our trunks, and finally induced a +workman to promise that he would have them taken to the hotel. But +the man soon returned, and reported that they had disappeared. That +was a severe blow; and in the darkness I wandered all over the pier +until finally a kind policeman was found, who assured me the trunks +could not have been stolen. Our search was at last rewarded by their +discovery, when the policeman called a coach and bade me take the +children to a hotel. I did so, and then sent the coachman back for +our trunks. + +An hour passed without his return, when I made inquiries, only to be +consoled by being told that the coachman was unknown in the hotel, +and had probably stolen our possessions. + +I started again, in spite of the continued storm, for that pier, +where to my joy I spied the policeman, who said he had refused to +deliver the trunks without a written order. Although deeply grateful +for his caution, I would gladly have been back in Texas, where, +whatever happened, there was some one to share hardships with me. + +The storm was unusually severe. After its cessation sign-boards were +found scattered all over the island, and some buildings had been +unroofed. + +It is not my intention to dwell at length on our sojourn in the +East, which lasted four years. This is a tale of army life, and one +accustomed to it is amazed when living among civilians to find how +little they know of such an institution as the army. + +My husband had long been entitled, by reason of rank and length of +service, to the one detail—that of recruiting—which brings a cavalry +officer East. He had always intended to reserve this for the time +when an education would be demanded for our children, and that time +had come; so Mr. Boyd applied for and received the detail in the fall +of 1882. + +On reaching St. Louis, where the choice of several cities was given +him, he selected Boston because of its excellent schools. We spent +there a winter, which seemed to us, fresh from sunny climes, one long +succession of rain, fogs, and east winds. Still, the many advantages +of that well-regulated city were appreciated, and had I been well +we should have enjoyed its intellectual atmosphere. As it was, we +were glad when summer arrived, and a little cottage on one of the +delightful beaches near by could be taken. It was a great treat, and +we were most thoroughly enjoying our surroundings, when, in the month +of August, a thunder-clap fell on our ears in the shape of an order +for that Eastern cavalry recruiting station to be discontinued. + +Boston had kept the station for so many years I could not at first +believe the bad news was true. But it proved to be; and Captain +Boyd, who had just received his promotion, was ordered to open a +recruiting office in Davenport, Iowa. After having served faithfully +as lieutenant for twenty-one years, he had at last been advanced to +the rank of captain. + +It was not deemed advisable for the entire family to be continually +changing from East to West, and _vice versâ_, so Captain Boyd went +alone to his new station. Time showed that our decision had been +judicious; for before his two years of recruiting service were +over he had been assigned to four different stations, going from +Davenport, Iowa, to Rochester, New York, and finally spending three +months at Jefferson Barracks, Missouri. + +Our long planned Eastern tour had proved an utter failure, and was +one more added to the list of many disappointments. After giving up +our country home near Boston, I went to New York with our children, +and placing them in excellent schools entered a hospital, where I +remained for one long year, a sufferer from illness entailed by early +army hardships. Our little boy was sent to his grandparents in the +country, and my husband returned to Texas. + +After Captain Boyd had been alone there a year, he asked for and +obtained leave of absence, which permitted us to spend four pleasant +months at Cooperstown, on Otsego Lake, where we had a glorious time. +My husband endeared himself to every one, for he was constantly +helping others. + +While he was stationed at Davenport, Iowa, a gentleman from there +called on me in New York, who described Captain Boyd as the most +popular man in the city. He said that every white man, woman, and +child in the town knew and loved my husband, while every old darky +idolized him. + +The ladies connected with one of Davenport’s principal churches were +greatly in need of money for charitable purposes, and Captain Boyd +wrote and delivered a lecture in their behalf which netted nearly +three hundred dollars. It was a humorous view of the Indian question, +and elicited shouts of applause. He was subsequently invited to give +the same address in other cities. + +On Captain Boyd’s return to the frontier his services as a lecturer +were in great demand, and he was in that way able to raise large sums +of money for charitable purposes. My husband became the best-known +army officer at the West on account of his frequent appearances on +the lecture platform. + +In the early spring of 1885, four years after having left Texas, +I returned. In all that time not one moment had passed in which I +would not gladly have been there; so I seized the first plausible +excuse afforded—a greatly needed change for our daughter—and leaving +the eldest boy at school in New York, again sailed for husband and +frontier life. + +The sea voyage to Galveston was the most soothing and delightful trip +of the kind possible. The water never appears rough immediately after +leaving New York; and for three days, while off the coast of Florida, +the vessel seemed gently—almost imperceptibly so far as motion was +concerned—gliding along. On arriving at San Antonio, instead of a +tedious ambulance-ride awaiting us, we went by rail to Fort Clark, +which was reached in a few hours. + +The sight of dear old familiar landmarks was inexpressibly pleasant; +and when we were ushered into one of those well-remembered little +houses, with all the old furniture about, it really seemed too +good to be true. Everything was more than satisfactory; and the +gratification afforded by the change can be understood only by those +who have been away from loved scenes for years, and on returning +found all expectations realized. Old friends were there to greet us, +and we were supremely happy in the renewal of our former life. + +My content and joy lasted four months, when rumors of Indian +outbreaks in far away New Mexico reached our ears, and were soon +followed by an order for all cavalry troops to hold themselves in +immediate marching readiness. + +Captain Boyd had just returned from a trip to San Antonio, having +gone there in compliance with a request to deliver the oration at +the National Cemetery on Decoration Day. In that address my husband +distinguished himself in a way to be long remembered by his family +and friends. It was the most touching and felicitous tribute to +our dead soldiers ever written; touching because of the truest +sentiments; felicitous because in a place where sectional feeling +had for years run riot, not one word was uttered to which the +veterans on either side could object. + +The address was very lengthy, occupying four columns of the _San +Antonio Express_, in which it was published next day; but every word +was listened to with eager interest by the immense audience. Long +before its conclusion the fervent tears that fell from old soldiers’ +eyes attested Captain Boyd’s eloquence; and when he ceased speaking +the veterans, mainly of the Southern army, crowded about him with +words of earnest praise, and begged that he honor them with a visit. +The Texas papers were unanimous in the declaration that no such +masterly address had ever before been heard on a similar occasion. + +Captain Boyd was obliged to hasten his return because feeling very +ill; he had been scarcely able to stand in the heat of that day, May +30, 1885, when, as usual at that season of the year in Texas, the +temperature was extreme and the atmosphere torrid. After reaching +home he was confined to his room for a week, and then came word for +the troops to start for New Mexico. + +The order was received in a telegraphic dispatch from Washington, +and was immediately complied with. Before we could realize it, every +troop of cavalry had left Fort Clark for an indefinite period. A long +series of Apache outrages headed by Geronimo had resulted in the +determination to capture him and his band, if it took the whole army +to do it. Accordingly, from every post in New Mexico and Texas all +troops that could be spared were sent. + +A cordon of outposts was established, so that the Indians who had +gone into Mexico could not return without being captured. The +devastations they had wrought were terrible. The little corner of +south-western New Mexico, in the neighborhood of Fort Bayard, had +become a veritable charnel house. Every interest of the country had +been ruined by their constant raids. + +The President’s attention was directly drawn to the state of affairs +by my brother, who was in Washington at the time. He had edited a +paper in Silver City, New Mexico, for several years, and had kept an +account of the number of murders committed by Indians—five hundred in +eight years. In such a sparsely settled country the loss of so many +precious lives was not only sad beyond expression, but if continued +must result in hopeless ruin to that region, which, as I have before +stated, is the garden spot of the West. Sheltered by numerous hills, +cattle always thrive and increase there, because of the perfectly +equable climate and a constant supply of nutritive food. + +For those very reasons, probably, it was a paradise for the Indians, +who could steal in and out more readily on account of the numerous +mountain hiding-places. + +It was very unusual for troops stationed in Texas to be sent out of +their district; but in that case everything possible was done to +enhance the safety of the long-suffering people. I shall not try +to give an account of that long-protracted warfare, which lasted +eighteen months before Geronimo was captured. During that time our +troops marched over ground that was well-nigh impassable, and endured +every species of hardships. The cavalry worked night and day to +secure those wily Indians, and finally succeeded; but a volume would +be required if their hardships and sufferings were to be recounted. + +It is simply impossible for any one who has not seen the unsettled +portions of this country to imagine its character and the +difficulties which beset troops that follow on the trails of Indians. +Our cavalry has been criticised freely; but I would say to the +critic: “Go thou and do likewise.” More than they have done, it would +be impossible to do, and no country could be less grateful than ours. +If soldiers were rewarded according to their deserts, each cavalryman +would wear the choicest prize within the nation’s gift. The service +is very trying. I can scarcely recall an officer who is not a martyr +to severe sufferings caused by constant exposure, and who in middle +life is not an old man both in feeling and experience. + +After reaching Deming, New Mexico, Captain Boyd’s troop was sent +into the Black Range, where they encamped at a little place called +Grafton, fifty miles from the mountains. I have my husband’s diary, +which contains an account of the march and the country over which +they traveled. He greatly disliked to settle quietly down in the +camp selected as a permanent one, and was delighted when a letter +summoning him away was received. + +The letter was sent from a little Mexican town about one hundred +miles distant, and informed him that ten Indian women had reached +there, who, if captured, would perhaps prove valuable hostages. They +were the wives of some members of the band that were on the war-path; +and if they could be secured the probability of effecting a treaty +seemed reasonable. + +Captain Boyd lost no time in preparations, but started at once with +twenty mounted men. The march occupied five days, and on reaching the +town the Indian women were found in an almost starving condition. + +The country was very rough, and a few lines received from my husband +while there stated that he was suffering greatly from the effects of +bad drinking-water. The man who had sent the letter begged him to +remain a few days, and not risk the effects of the return to camp +while so ill. But he refused to stay, fearing the Indian women might +escape if not speedily taken to a permanent military station. + +My husband returned to camp, having suffered intensely during the ten +days of his absence, and when he reached his troop was dying, though +still refusing to consider himself seriously ill. He at once ordered +the only officer with him to proceed with the Indian women to the +place where the main body of the regiment was encamped, one hundred +and fifty miles distant. + +The young officer was so anxious about Captain Boyd that he sent +a courier for the nearest surgeon, who was at Hillsboro, eighty +miles away. It was four days before the doctor could reach Grafton, +and meantime Captain Boyd was without proper medical attendance. +Everything his faithful soldiers could do was done; but, alas, to no +purpose! The army doctor’s first glance showed him that Captain Boyd +was doomed. + +For five days the most unremitting care and attention were given him, +both by the kind physician and by a captain of the regiment who had +accompanied him. But all was useless. The fifth day ended the life of +this noble and true man. + +Captain Boyd’s last hard ride had developed violent inflammation +which was simply incurable, as the disease had been increasing for +years, having first developed when during the war the young soldier +had been compelled to drink impure water and go without food for +days. Subsequent years of cavalry hardships had increased its +strength until that last exposure proved fatal. + +Home in Texas we scarcely realized that he was ill when the terrible +news of his death came in a telegram that had been two days _en +route_. + +Letters had been received from him so regularly that when they ceased +I supposed he was still on the march. When the doctor and captain +began to write, their communications were at first so encouraging +that we could scarcely believe he was in any danger, and were totally +unprepared for the terrible sequel. In fact, no one could at first +accept the sad truth; for Captain Boyd had been the picture of +health, and had impressed every one with his unusual vitality. When +the young officer who had been sent forward with the Indian women +returned to find his beloved captain dead and buried, the shock was +so great he almost fell from his horse. + +That Indian campaign resulted in some terrible deaths, but none was +more shocking than this sad ending to a long and most faithful career. + +Only a few months previously Captain Boyd had spoken very feelingly +of the double loss army women sustained when death robbed them of +their husbands—the loss of both husband and home. He realized how +deeply attached to the life they became, and how sad it was that +they must be cast adrift from all the associations of years. But +such, though sorrowful in all its aspects, is the fate of army women. + +My grief was intensified by the utter refusal of the Secretary of +War to remove all that remained of so true and manly a soldier to +a National Cemetery. After my first request had been denied I went +to Washington, only to receive there a second from the same source; +the reason given being that government could not afford to incur the +expense. + +Had I not made every effort possible, there would have been another +lonely grave in the very heart of a remote mountain region, where +none who loved him could ever have visited the spot. + +Captain Boyd died on the same day as General Grant. A week later +orders were received at Fort Clark from the War Department, directing +that the nation’s great general should have every honor paid his +memory. Guns were fired, flags displayed at half-mast, and the band +played sad and solemn music, while troops paraded in honor of the +dead general and his great achievements. + +It seemed to me mournful and unjust, that while high and deserved +honors were paid the memory of one, the other, as noble and true a +soldier as ever walked this earth, and who had given twenty-four of +his forty-one years of life in faithful service, had endured terrible +hardships, and yielded at last even his life for his country, should +be laid to rest far from home and friends, out on the lonely prairie, +and except in the hearts of a few his memory should utterly fade. + +Captain Boyd sleeps in the National Cemetery at San Antonio, where +six weeks previously he had touched all hearts with his eloquence. +Graven on his tomb are the last words of that memorable address: + + “Sleep, soldier, still in honored rest + Thy truth and valor wearing; + The bravest are the tenderest, + The loving are the daring.” + + + + +APPENDIX A. + +_Extract from the proceedings of the Association of Graduates of the +United States military Academy at its annual reunion, held at West +Point, New York, June 10, 1886._[1] + +[1] This obituary was distributed throughout the corps of cadets at +West Point by the Commandant at the time of Captain Boyd’s death, and +its perfect justice has never in the slightest degree been challenged. + + +ORSEMUS B. BOYD. + +NO. 2216. CLASS OF 1867. + +_Died (in the field), at Camp near Grafton, New Mexico, July 23, +1885, aged 41._ + + “So passed the strong, heroic soul away—” + +Born in New York; appointed from New York; class rank, 61. + +Entered the War of the Rebellion as a member of the Eighty-ninth New +York Volunteer Infantry, Sept. 1, 1861, and served until July 1, +1863, when he was appointed a Cadet in the United States Military +Academy. He saw active service in our great war, and was mentioned +for gallantry at Roanoke Island, North Carolina. + +He was graduated on June 17, 1867, and appointed second lieutenant +Eighth United States Cavalry; first lieutenant same, Oct. 13, +1868; captain, Jan. 26, 1882. He died July 23, 1885, closing in +_acknowledged honor_ and undoubted manly effectiveness _twenty-four +years of faithful and gallant service_ in the saddest of our +wars, and in Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas, where he assisted in +developing our great inland resources. + +His family have an honest pride in his unostentatious record, and we +all may say: + + “Duncan is in his grave. + After life’s fitful fever, he sleeps well.” + + +THE RECORD OF A NOBLE LIFE. + + “I, the despised of fortune, lift mine eyes, + Bright with the luster of integrity, + In unappealing wretchedness, on high, + And the last rage of Destiny defy.” + +It is with deep solicitude that the writer endeavors, in a few words, +to do justice to the memory of Captain Boyd. + +For several long and intensely painful years I knew him to be +an innocent Enoch Arden in a lonely desert of solitude, bereft +of—dearer to the soldier than wife or life—his HONOR—a sufferer for +the crime of _another man_. + +It was in 1863 that he entered the academy—a veteran soldier, a young +man whose merits had gained for him the honorable rank of cadet. +In 1864 the writer joined the corps, and for three years marched +shoulder to shoulder in the line of the dear old Gray Battalion with +the man who sleeps far away from the Hudson, and where the foot +of the idle stranger may stop to mark where a good, honest, and +much-wronged man sleeps the sleep which knows no waking. + +No man ever did better work in the army than Boyd. By steady, +faithful, and efficient service, he wore out suspicion, +conspiracy, bad luck, and scandal. Since the establishment of his +innocence—unsought, unchallenged by him—his defamer has preceded him +to the awful bar of the Great Judge. + +He lived to round a career of usefulness and gallant service with the +tributes of regimental and army respect, the affection of his brother +officers, the endearments of family life, the respect of the people +of Texas and of the territories where he had served. Demonstrations +by his company and comments of the general press prove that his +once-shadowed name is now clear and clean, and may be honored by +those who loved him. + +The facts are these: In the winter of 1865-1866 the robbery of +certain sums of money occurred in “B” Company, United States Corps +of Cadets. It is unnecessary to refer to the facts other than that +after repeated robberies and some rather crude detective work, one +evening, at undress parade in the area of barracks, Cadet Boyd was +ignominiously brought before the battalion of cadets with a placard +of “Thief” on his breast, drummed out of the corps, mobbed and +maltreated. A most intense state of excitement prevailed on the +post, and the strongest discipline was enforced, the cadets being +summarily quelled in any riotous actions. Innocent parties had their +names dragged into the affair, and poor Boyd finished his cadetship +generally cut in the corps, and endured, till he graduated, a life +which was a living hell. + +The scandal followed him to his regiment, and years of exemplary +behavior were needed to enable him to live down his trouble. His +quiet, manly obstinacy in clinging to the army is explained by his +innocence. To the honorable but hot-headed men who so long made Boyd +carry the burden of another’s crime, deepest regret must ever attend +the memories of this affair. It is a matter of strange remark that +the guilty man who made Boyd suffer for him—John Joseph Casey, of +the class of 1868—was accidentally shot at drill, by a soldier, at +Fort Washington, Md., March 24, 1869, within nine months after his +apparently honorable graduation. The careers and untimely end of +several who bore down on the suffering man of whom we speak show +some strange and continued sadness or burdens of expiation. It is +all over now. The wandering squadron passing poor Boyd’s grave may +dip the colors to a man whose eyes closed in honor, true to himself, +to his family, his corps and to the dear old flag that he served so +patiently, so quietly, and so well. God rest his soul! Amen. + +His innocence was publicly established as follows: In the winter of +1867-1868, Cadet Casey, while sick in the hospital, confessed to his +room-mate, Cadet Hamilton (now dead), that he (Casey) had stolen the +moneys for which poor Boyd had suffered the loss of name and fame. + + * * * * * + +[The records show that Casey was in the hospital from Jan. 24 to Jan. +31, 1868, suffering from dementia. He was so ill that his classmates +took turns in nursing him. One night, in his delirium, he spoke of +the Boyd affair. Hamilton happened to be with him at the time. The +next morning, when Casey was again in a conscious condition, Hamilton +told him what he had said. It was _then_ that Casey confessed his +part of the conspiracy. If it had not been for Casey’s illness the +facts above narrated would never, in all human probability, have come +to light.—_Sec. Assn._] + + * * * * * + +It is unnecessary for the writer to state why Hamilton kept this +awful secret locked in his breast from 1867-1868 until he died, +Jan. 22, 1872, from consumption; but he did, alas for him! Casey +had peculiar temptations. Private matters and a hounding blackmail +pressed him for money, which he stole from rich cadets. The cause was +a concealed marriage of Casey’s, that if known would have voided his +cadetship and destroyed his chance for social elevation. + +Poor Boyd lived alone in a room on the third floor, third division, +“B” Company. Casey lived directly opposite, and concealed marked +money in Boyd’s books, which caused Boyd to be suspected as the thief +of all the money previously stolen. + +Hamilton, the confidant, feared his room-mate of four years, +erred, and kept silent, as far as I know, until June, 1871. At +the St. Marc Hotel, Washington, D.C., Lieutenant Hamilton, in +view of his approaching death, communicated to me his knowledge +of Casey’s confession and of Boyd’s innocence. I was shocked, and +at once communicated the facts to the then Lieut. O. B. Boyd, on +the frontier. On my return, after three years of absence in the +Orient, Europe, and the South, I discovered, in a conversation with +Captain Price of the engineers, that full justice had not been done. +Duplicate affidavits were immediately made by me and forwarded to +Captain Boyd and another person interested. I received a letter from +Boyd thanking me for my efforts—a letter that has made me always +happy, and which, I regret, is stored with valuable archives where I +cannot at once find it. It speaks of his struggles, and pleasantly +says that his character needs no present backing, but that a time +will come when I may speak and tell all, if I think it will please +those who value him. + +It was in Siberia that I received the letter asking me to commit +these facts to paper, and by hazard I found a stray copy of the +_Army and Navy_ which contained a report of Captain Boyd’s honorable +obsequies. + +From the Pacific I pen the last tribute to a man of much-tried worth. +The subject brings back painful memories of two men whom I loved and +honored in my cadet days—Casey and Hamilton. I am proud to state here +that two of my class never cut Boyd, and several others in the corps +did him some act of kindness in the awful silence of two years. With +pride I recall that the officers of the post did full justice to his +barren rights, and that the old and faithful servants of the Academy +treated him with a discerning kindness which is a wreath of honor on +their silent graves. I will not refer to one affection which cheered +him—there are things too sacred for words. + +It is all over! There is only one name off the duty roster; an empty +chair; a lonely grave; an old sword hanging idly in the sunshine +somewhere; a riderless horse; a void in the little family circle +which knew and loved the man who is no more. + +It is well to know that his name is mentioned with honor and respect; +that the burden of another’s crime has been cast from him, and that +Time will quietly and in honor carpet the grave of the honest soldier +with “the grass which springeth under the rain which raineth on the +just and the unjust alike.” I believe restitution of honor and +public consideration has, in so far as possible, been fully made. I +look back sadly on my waning youth, as I think of this story, its +actors, and that— + + “The saint who enjoyed the communion of heaven, + The sinner who dared to remain unforgiven, + The wise and the foolish, the guilty and just, + Have quietly mingled their bones with the dust.” + RICHARD H. SAVAGE, + _Class of 1868_. + + + + +APPENDIX B. + +AMERICAN CIVILIZATION. + +AS VIEWED BY WEEPING WEASEL, LATE CHIEF OF THE KIOWAS. + + +A LECTURE + + _Written by_ CAPTAIN ORSEMUS BRONSON BOYD, _in behalf of the + Charitable Enterprises of the Ladies connected with the —— Church + of Davenport, Iowa, and also given before the Masonic Lodge in + San Antonio, Texas._ + +_Ladies and Gentlemen_:—In the first place I am not a lecturer. I +make this announcement now, for fear you may not discover it before I +shall have finished, or if the fact should be rudely thrust upon you, +I will have pleaded guilty in advance to the indictment. + +When, a boy, I took part in the debating clubs that were held in +those old red schoolhouses where all great affairs of state—wars, +revolution, politics and finance—were discussed with the freedom of +boys and the ignorance of savages, there was one question which never +failed to elicit ample talk: “Resolved, that anticipation is better +than reality,” and on that question I was always in the affirmative. +In an hour you will all be with me. + +I shall tell no tale of personal adventure; nothing worth recording +ever happened to me. Diogenes, with a lantern, and open sunlight to +aid the lantern, in the city of Athens failed to find an honest man. +An untutored Indian from the plains of Texas, amid the common events +and every-day life of the Pale-faces, discovered that their vaunted +civilization was a myth, and their boasted culture a delusion. Let us +at once annihilate the Indian and discredit Diogenes. + +In common with all Christians of our kind, we believe that it is +easier for a camel to go through the eye of a needle than for a rich +man to inherit the kingdom of heaven. There are other Christians who +believe that it is easier for a rich man to go through the eye of a +needle than for a camel to inherit the kingdom of heaven. Who shall +say which Christian is _the_ Christian? + +Before the brothers of this noble profession, this mystic tie, whose +deeds have been known in every land and under every sun—amid burning +flames and on frozen mountains, on swollen rivers and tempestuous +seas, by the bedsides of dying princes, in the cabins of poverty, +desolation, and disease, in public and private, to bond and free, to +all brothers who own its symbolic rites—to all brothers and wives of +the brothers, I can more freely speak of one who, though ignorant and +a savage, still found in his own faith and his own civilization his +own Christianity. + +Eighteen hundred years ago, in Capernaum by the Sea of Galilee, a +man, whom the charity of God had sent into the world, was preaching +to the people. And a certain lawyer, willing to justify himself, +stood up and asked, “Who is my neighbor?” Promptly came the answer: + +“A certain man went down from Jerusalem to Jericho, and fell among +thieves, which stripped him of his raiment, and wounded him, and +departed, leaving him half dead. + +“And by chance there came down a certain priest that way, and when he +saw him he passed by on the other side. + +“And likewise a Levite, when he was at the place, came and looked on +him, and passed by on the other side. + +“But a certain Samaritan as he journeyed, came where he was; and when +he saw him, he had compassion on him. + +“And went to him, and bound up his wounds, pouring in oil and wine, +and set him on his own beast, and brought him to an inn, and took +care of him. + +“And on the morrow when he departed, he took out two pence, and gave +them to the host, and said unto him, Take care of him: and whatsoever +thou spendest more, when I come again, I will repay thee. + +“Which now of these three, thinkest thou, was neighbor unto him that +fell among the thieves?” + +On the boundless prairies of the West and South, that are in extent +empires, the white man has learned that devotion which Nature, in her +grandest forms, most surely teaches. He has learned that tolerance +which men unfettered by the bonds of conventional society most +quickly learn. + +Two years ago last July I found myself encamped upon the banks of the +Red River of Texas, with forty horsemen as scouts under my command. +Like a silver thread the river ran a thousand feet beneath us, +through the wildest and most precipitous cañon. + +At four o’clock one morning, a Seminole Indian, attached to the +command, brought me intelligence that six hours previously six +horses, four lodges, one sick Indian, five squaws, and several +children had descended into the cañon one mile above us, and were +then lost to sight. I asked: + +“Had they provisions?” + +“Yes; corn and buffalo meat.” + +“How do you know?” + +“Because I saw corn scattered upon one side of the trail, and flies +had gathered upon a piece of buffalo meat on the other.” + +“How do you know that one of the Indians is sick?” + +“Because the lodge poles were formed into a travois, that was drawn +by a horse blind in one eye.” + +“How do you know the horse was half blind?” + +“Because, while all the other horses grazed upon both sides of the +trail, this one ate only the grass that grew upon one side.” + +“How do you know the sick one was a man?” + +“Because when a halt was made all the women gathered around him.” + +“Of what tribe are they?” + +“Of the Kiowa tribe.” + +And thus, with no ray of intelligence upon his stolid face, the +Seminole Indian stood before me and told all I wished to know +concerning our new neighbors, whom he had never seen. + +Two hours from that time, not knowing whether they were friends or +enemies, I was carefully studying, from the bluff above, through a +field-glass, the Indian camp. + +The lodges had all been erected, and were gay with the robes of the +buffalo of the plains, the prairie wolf, and the coyote. A great war +bonnet of eagles’ feathers hung before the door of the principal +tepee, denoting that its occupant was a chief. From the lodge pole +floated a blue streamer, bearing the rude device, in red paint, of a +whip-poor-will attacking a rattlesnake; this told me that he was the +chief of all the Kiowas. I knew the man. I had met him, with many +others of his tribe, one night several years before, one hundred +miles below on the same river, and the meeting had not been pleasant +to either of us. + +In fact, several hours had been required in which to adjust our +differences; and as the chief left me amid the crack of rifles and +the swish of arrows, I heard his clear voice solemnly declaring in +Spanish that he would surely come again “when the moon was young.” +Fate was too strong even for the chief of the Kiowas; he never came; +his tribe had been conquered and were at peace. + +Returning to my cantonment, I hastily saddled a small detachment, +and descending the almost precipitous sides of the gorge reached the +Indian encampment, and dismounting, raised the buffalo skin that hung +before the entrance of the principal lodge, and stood unsummoned in +the presence of the chief. An old and shriveled man, with nerveless +arms and sunken eyes, from which the fire of battle had forever fled, +lay upon a rude couch of skins. He gave courteous greeting, said he +knew me, and even spoke my name. As I sat upon the ground at his side +he told me how, for weeks before our previous meeting to which I have +alluded, he had been upon my trail when I marched over the short, +crisp buffalo grass of the staked-plains. He had known my personal +habits, the disposition of the camp for defense at night, the number +of men, animals, and wagons; in fact, all that I had known myself. + +The chief then told me that he was stricken by death, and should soon +be in the presence of the Great Spirit, roaming the happy hunting +grounds of his tribe, and asked that he be allowed to die in peace. + +Day after day I visited the dying warrior, who related from time to +time, as his strength permitted, the story of his life and the story +of his tribe. He recounted the wrongs they had suffered, and the +wrongs they had done. He told me of their customs and traditions, +their marriages, births, and deaths. For days he talked, sometimes in +the soft Spanish tongue, often in the beautiful sign language of the +plain Indian. + +In my youth I lived near, and of course read the romantic creations +of that clever gentleman who resided upon the shores of the beautiful +Cooperstown Lake. I had also read the works of a novelist from the +South who had invested the Indian character with all the warmth and +color of his native skies, with all the romance that belonged to +his Southern forests, gay with flowers and poetic with festoons of +clinging moss. + +In consequence of this I had come to look upon the Indian as all that +was noble, grand, and heroic in war, all that was gentle, tender, +and true in peace. I had read with breathless interest of his loves, +courtships, and marriages. I had admired his keenness of vision upon +the trail, his untiring energy, fleetness of foot, immunity from +fatigue, his long fasts, and the halo of romance that seemed to +ever encircle him. I considered him a “Chevalier Bayard,” a model of +physical beauty, who resembled, perhaps, the dying gladiator. + +My boyhood’s dream was rudely broken, and like many another boyish +illusion it disappeared in a day. I found the Indian dirty, unwashed, +and treacherous, a prey to the lowest instincts and the most +revolting cruelty. + +He was no “Chevalier Bayard,” and did not resemble the dying +gladiator. The romance, color, light and shades—all were gone, and I +learned that the Indian and our treatment of him were deformities and +blots upon our fair land and our modern civilization. Between the law +of force upon one side, and the law of civilization upon the other, +the Indian has been tossed like an unripe apple, and has not known +which to obey. + +One night the old Indian chief died, and the next morning, with such +rude and simple rites as obtained among the Kiowas, we carried him to +his last resting-place upon the platform which had been erected for +the purpose. + +The dawning light was flushing rosy red in the blushing East; in +the West the darkness of the night still lingered. The songs of a +thousand birds and the chirp of millions of insects broke in some +measure the eternal silence of those great plains. The buzzard, a +mere speck in the sky, with the eye of the eagle waited impatiently +for his prey. Herds of timid antelopes, with great startled eyes, +watched us from a distance, ready to dash away on fleetest foot at +a moment’s warning. Troops of buffaloes were slaking their thirst +in the rippling river. The great cat-fish, with strong leaps, rose +bodily from the water in pursuit of prey, and fell back with a splash. + +All animal life was awake with the flush of the morning; and as the +sun’s disk appeared above the horizon’s dead level, we laid the chief +upon the platform, with his face turned toward the “God of the Dome.” +His body was wrapped in a red blanket stoutly bound about with cords. +He had been brave in battle, so all his war implements were laid by +his side. His great war bonnet of eagle’s feathers was hung upon one +of the upright poles. His horses were slain by the scaffold. Then, to +the accompaniment of low-voiced chants, his widows began their work +of scarification with knives upon the lower extremities. When that +was finished we left him to the hush of those vast plains. + +That night in one of the lodges a great great granddaughter but a +few months old died. The child was placed in a frail burial canoe, +covered with trailing vines that had grown upon the river’s banks, +and gently cast adrift. No doubt the tiny bark was soon caught in +rippling eddies, or its course stopped by stout rushes, and in time +its lifeless occupant returned to the dust from which it had sprung. + +After the obsequies of the dead chief I returned to camp, and in +order to divert my mind sought to fatigue my body by stalking +buffaloes all day. But I had gained a new insight into the Indian +character, and one which enabled me to respect it. + +That evening, lying in a hammock under the awning of my tent, as the +first shades of darkness came creeping over the plains, there struck +upon my ears, borne upward from the gorge below, the chant of Indian +women for their dead. Its tones were the rhythm of sorrow and the +notes of woe. Until midnight the songs continued, now loud, then +sinking to the faint whisperings of the wind. Next morning the lodges +were in ashes, and nothing was left of our strange neighbors but the +dead chief upon his platform, and the footprints of their moccasins +as they traveled straight toward the North Star. + +These events made so strange and strong an impression upon me, that +I propose telling you this evening, in as simple words as possible, +the story of the pilgrimage of Weeping Weasel, late chief of all the +Kiowas. I shall dwell longer upon his attempts to introduce the white +man’s civilization in his tribe, what he saw, and the inferences +drawn therefrom, than upon all the other incidents he related. The +conclusions at which Weeping Weasel, with the intellect of an Indian +and the sagacity of a politician, arrived, are not necessarily mine; +and if their recital should wound any one within the sound of my +voice, I would beg them to remember that they were told me by a dying +Indian chief, as he lay in his lodge upon the banks of the Red River +flowing peacefully through the great staked-plains of Texas. + +Years and years before—even for hundreds of summers—the Kiowas had +been a powerful nation. When the tent of the chief was planted, there +clustered around it five thousand lodges. The tribe was rich in the +implements of war, owned thousands of horses, were mighty hunters, +bold and aggressive warriors. No footprint of man or animal, no +upturned stone, broken twig or bended grass escaped the keen vision +of their scouts. + +From El Paso, where the Rio Grande del Norte commences its westward +course, and swings in the arc of a great circle until completed at +the mouth of the Pecos, where it again flows south, they owned the +lands of which this river formed the Western boundary; thence south +across the “Devil’s River” and the Nueces, to where it empties into +beautiful Matagorda Bay. On the east they had fought for supremacy +with the Comanches, and been victorious. They had made the Tonkawas +a nation of beggars and old women. From across the border they had +repelled invasions of the Kickapoos and Lipan-Apaches. They had +marched, an irresistible army, across the pine ridges and cedar +mountains of New Mexico, and fearlessly confronted the Warm Springs +and Mescalero tribes. The Utes of Colorado had descended from their +mountain fastnesses, battled with them in the open plain, and +been defeated. They had measured lances with and beaten the Tonto +and Jicarrila—Apaches of Arizona. They had destroyed the great +wheat-fields on the Gila River of the Pima and Maricopa tribes. The +Yumas had heard their battle-cry. They had pushed their conquests +amongst the Pi-Utes and Shoshones of Nevada, and from thence had +marched against the Bannocks of Idaho, and the Nez Perces of Oregon. +Their spoils of war had been great. + +But in course of time the hands of all other tribes were raised +against them, and through disaster and defeat they had been reduced +to the occupancy of only the great plains of Western Texas. + +At that time Weeping Weasel became their chief. He was then in the +prime of manhood. The nerveless arm that I saw in his lodge could +then draw the six-foot arrow to its head, and make the cord of deer +sinews writhe and moan as in pain. + +He saw that peace and industry would perhaps be of great benefit to +his tribe, and after much communion with himself and consultation +with the elders, concluded at no distant day to turn his face toward +the rising sun, and learn the strange and barbarous ways of the +Pale-faces. He had been told they were as numberless as the leaves of +the forest when the hot sirocco that comes from the southern islands +shakes them with its fiery breath. + +Marching over these great and silent plains under the blazing sun, he +had learned in some instinctive way that the Pale-faces would build +cities there, and people them with busy men and women. + +Weeping Weasel had seen the _Pongo_ or smoke-man in the North that +traversed its iron rails faster than his fleetest pony could gallop. +He had seen a small wire stretched on poles through which he could +but dimly comprehend that the men who lived at the rising sun talked +with their brothers who lived at the setting sun. + +But before starting on a journey so fraught with peril, he thought +best to call to his aid teachers—those of good repute among the +Pale-faces. Through a missionary he secured the services of two +devotees from Massachusetts, who came and opened a school for the +boys and girls of his tribe. + +It is true that in visage and mien these teachers did not resemble +the dusky beauties of the Kiowa race. The ringlets worn at the +side of the face, the eyes that looked through strange pieces of +glass, the mysterious scrolls which they held in their hands, and +the sounding fall of a heavy foot instead of the dewy touch of the +moccasin, were not calculated to inspire love and respect from +untutored savages. + +Still, with the devotion of their calling, and in their desire +to do good, these mistaken and misguided women taught on. But one +fatal day they were surprised by Weeping Weasel while teaching the +children that the world is round. The Kiowas believed it to be flat. +Weeping Weasel, with the decision worthy a general of iron nerve and +unflinching courage in the right, seized and burned them at the stake. + +He scattered their ashes to the four winds of heaven, and in a long +address to the Historical Society of Boston, asked that others with +less pernicious doctrines be sent. It is perhaps needless to state +that even the old Bay State, with its advanced ideas and unyielding +principles, could find no more volunteer missionaries for that work. +Therefore Weeping Weasel must needs start upon his pilgrimage toward +the rising sun. + +The night previous to his departure all the tribes assembled, and +with the great Southern Cross gleaming and burning, they performed +the sacred rites and mysteries of the sun dance. A hundred fires +flamed brightly. Amid the yells of warriors and the shrieks of those +fainting from self-inflicted tortures, there arose the monotonous +chants of the women as they prayed for the safety of their chief. + +At break of day he left them, and a great silence fell upon the tribe +as they mournfully sought their separate lodges. + +Day by day Weeping Weasel traveled north and east, sleeping at night +under the stars, his food procured by bow and arrow, his drink taken +from limpid streams. + +At last he came to the country of the “Smoke-man,” and taking passage +was borne swiftly over mountains and through the valleys to some +bluffs upon the boundary of a great State, where other Indians had +held their councils years before, and where he determined to commence +his researches and investigations. + +His pilgrimage becoming known, the chief was hospitably lodged in the +house of a Christian gentleman of that town who was a land agent. +Among the Kiowas the title to all lands and the occupancy thereof +were considered sacred. Even in their forays against other tribes +they contended for supremacy, not for a title to the country. Indeed, +so strong was this honesty implanted in the breast of the savage and +barbarous Indian, that once, after a great battle with the Comanches, +rather than do violence to this principle he had ceded to them a +thousand square miles of his own country, deeming that better than +to question such undoubted right. + +The land agent showed him, in his office, maps of lands which bore +strong resemblance to those occupied by his tribe. Upon leaving, this +same Christian gentleman followed him across the State to a city with +a great bridge and offered to sell, beseeching him to buy, for a +merely nominal sum, thousands and thousands of acres upon which his +tribe had dwelt from time immemorial. Weeping Weasel determined not +to incorporate the land usages of the Pale-faces amongst his people. + +In the towns and camps of the Kiowas, great attention had been paid +to the sanitary conditions of their immediate surroundings. This was +necessary for the life and health of individual members of the tribe. + +In that city by the bridge he found the people in a certain locality +stricken unto death by a strange pestilence. Upon investigating the +cause, he learned they all had drank water from a certain well. +Weeping Weasel concluded that, if he were the chief in this locality, +there would be sewers and water-mains; or failing these, the +inhabitants who refused or were too indolent to carry water from the +river would receive a punishment, compared with which the cholera +would be a lingering and painless death. But Weeping Weasel was an +untaught, rude, and barbarous savage. + +The “Father of Waters” next attracted the attention of this curious +pilgrim. Compared with all other rivers he had ever seen, it was as +the sun to the faintest twinkling star. He worshiped it as a god. Day +by day he sat upon the banks, watched it through all changing moods, +loved it best when angry currents brought down yellow mud from the +far North, and worshiped it most when the setting sun’s ocher light +fell upon its surging waters, enveloping beautiful islands. + +There floated upon its broad expanse numberless strange monsters, +propelled in some mysterious way. Weeping Weasel found they carried +grain, fruit, and other produce from one part of the country to +another, and then first began to understand the law of trade—of +barter and sale. He took passage upon one of these palaces, +descending a hundred miles; saw the busy towns upon the banks of his +idol, filled, as he thought, with crazy men and women. Why all this +rush, ceaseless activity and strife for wealth, he questioned. + +Returning at night, and standing upon the deck with head uncovered +in the reverent attitude a savage always assumes when awe-stricken +in the presence of nature, he suddenly became conscious of a strange +throbbing through every fiber of the monster. He also saw abreast +another monster all aglow with fire; men were shouting and running +like mad! Every few minutes its huge furnace doors were opened, and +the blazing fires fed with pitch and resin. The vessel shook in every +joint; men and women were crowding the deck all hoarse from shouting; +money was freely changing hands; from the smoke-stacks long lines +of fire trailed out through the darkness; the gurgling water at the +bow was thrown in spray upon the deck. Suddenly there was a terrible +roar, a great flash of fire, then darkness came, and Weeping Weasel +knew no more until he found himself safe upon the river’s bank. + +He was told that a hundred men, women, and children had been +sacrificed that night. Burning with anger and righteous indignation, +Weeping Weasel attended the coroner’s inquest; the evidence was +conflicting; no one in particular seemed to have been to blame; it +was an accident. Weeping Weasel went forward to offer his testimony; +a savage could not take the oath. The coroner’s jury promptly +acquitted all of blame, even the poor Indian, and the event was soon +forgotten. Weeping Weasel determined that the civilization of the +steamboat should never be introduced among his people. + +Again he turned his face to the east, and traveled across a great +State where the fields were waving with ripening grain. Neat +farmhouses had been erected on every side. The corn and wheat that he +saw growing seemed to him of no use. Who would require it? + +On these undulating plains with cattle, sheep, and horses, where +peace and plenty seemed to reign and the merry voices of children +were heard at sunset, our untutored savage began to think perhaps was +the civilization of which he had dreamed. Still he had the Indian’s +caution, and arrived at conclusions slowly. + +He determined to abide three days in the most peaceful and quiet +village, and chose one with two churches, a bank, and store. + +Upon awakening the first morning, he found that the store had been +robbed and burned during the night. The following day the two +churches were in fierce dispute over some minor point of doctrine. +The third morning it was learned that the bank cashier had absconded +with all the funds, leaving hundreds of families destitute. + +The Kiowas did not steal from each other; the simple faith in the +Great Spirit which they had in common furnished no cause for dispute; +and the custodian of the tribe’s public goods never ran away with +them. They never had thought of such an occurrence; and the event was +so improbable that those barbarous savages had not even prescribed a +mode of punishment for it. + +Weary, harassed, tormented, and worn out even at the commencement +of his pilgrimage, Weeping Weasel would gladly have turned his face +toward the setting sun; but patience being one of the great virtues +of the Kiowas, he again girded up his loins and proceeded on his +journey. + +But a great fear was coming upon his superstitious soul. One +afternoon, years before, while hunting, Weeping Weasel had fallen +asleep by the side of a spring that bubbled from beneath an immense +boulder, which was sufficiently large to protect him from the sun’s +rays. As he slept, there appeared before him the god Stone-Shirt, +followed by Pantasco, or he who robs the living; Kay-Wit, he who robs +the dead; and Quite-Qiu, who robs both living and dead. All passed +before the sleeping warrior, to whom Stone-Shirt foretold in the sign +language this pilgrimage and the events which would follow. + +Weeping Weasel could only dimly comprehend on awaking, that in case +of failure he was to be turned into one of the three horrid shapes +shown him by Stone-Shirt; and, forever shut out from the Great Spirit +and the happy hunting grounds, his soul, without arms to defend +itself, must wander and fall through unfathomable space and darkness. + +When he saw the terrible anxiety, woe, and despair written upon the +faces of fathers, mothers, and children whom the vandal acts of the +faithless cashier had ruined, Weeping Weasel concluded to ever pray +that he be not turned into the horrid shape which steals from the +living. + +In the robbery of the store the proprietor had been killed; and as +this ignorant savage gazed upon the form of the man who had died +while defending his property, Weeping Weasel, in the agony of his +soul, prayed to Stone-Shirt that he be spared, both in this his +mortal, and in his future spiritual, existence, assuming the form of +him who robs the dead. + +In the dispute between the churches, so much rancor and venom had +been developed that men who were peacefully lying, as they had +lain for years, in the little cemetery of the town, were publicly +discussed, and motives and opinions the worst imputed to them. +Happily they were ignorant of all this. + +The living were slandered and the dead vilified. Brother became +the enemy of brother, sisters were estranged, husbands and wives +separated. Again Weeping Weasel besought Stone-Shirt, and with the +sweat of mortal agony upon his brow, that, if he must, he would face +either of the two horrible shapes to be spared the form of the one +who robs both the living and the dead. + +Weeping Weasel soon found himself in a great city by a lake. Here +he was lodged in the house of a gray-haired and respectable man, a +pillar of the church, and one who gave largely, in an indiscriminate +way, to churches and the poor. He had no time to investigate +charities, and only contributed to them because he had money, or +perhaps to ease the gnawings of a conscience not altogether dormant. + +Weeping Weasel was taken to church, where an eloquent preacher +held his audience spell-bound as he impressed upon it the evils of +gambling. To all his strictures the gray-haired man responded with +fervent “Ahmens!” + +The next morning his host escorted Weeping Weasel to a great mart of +trade in that populous city. There the savage Indian remembered the +immense wheat and corn fields he had passed as he journeyed east. He +saw the reverend gentleman who had spoken so eloquently on the sin +of gambling stealthily enter a broker’s office and sell thousands +and thousands of bushels of grain which he did not own, and never +would. His gray-haired entertainer, who had so graciously responded +“Ahmen!” stood in the center of hundreds of other men, all of whom +were shouting and howling as he drove grain up and down by a nod of +his head; men were ruined and families made destitute by this man, +who called gambling a sin. + +Weeping Weasel learned, but it was difficult to grasp the idea, that +crops were bought and sold before they were sown; that they became +a football upon “Change,” even while growing; and when finally sent +to market they ruined thousands. He found that all this disastrously +affected the poor brethren of the Pale-faces, and that children were +hungry in consequence. The chief decided he would grow only enough +corn to satisfy the wants of his people, and would forever remain +silent in regard to the gambling transactions. + +Once in the history of the Kiowa tribe an old and respected warrior +had been selected to build a lodge in which public meetings were +to be held. He was to be paid from the goods owned in common. To +the dismay and horror of all, it was found that this rude architect +had not been honest; he had demanded more buffalo hides than were +needed for the building, and the best he had conveyed to his own +lodge, and afterward sold to wandering traders. When the man’s crime +became known he was seized, and the elders sat around him with +stern visages. His trial was short; he was bound on the top of the +dishonestly built lodge, and met his death in its flames. + +Weeping Weasel was shown a great hall of justice in that city where +the granite was the finest and the workmanship the most skillful. +He was told that the builder had taken the best granite and sold +it to the traders among the Pale-faces. Thinking this had just +been discovered, our barbarous Indian went early the next morning +to witness the destruction of the building and cremation of the +dishonest builder. He waited until noon, and as the building +still stood and no torch had been applied, Weeping Weasel turned +sorrowfully away just in time to see the false builder drinking +champagne at a fashionable restaurant with his friends. This phase +of civilization would not do for the fierce and warlike Kiowas. + +The right of husbands to exact obedience, and the duty of wives to +obey, was one of the laws of the Kiowas, as unalterable as if written +upon tablets of stone. So strongly was this doctrine implanted in the +breast of the savage that once, in a foray against a Northern tribe, +a favorite squaw of Weeping Weasel’s had, in direct disobedience to +his command, followed a distance of two days’ march and entered his +lodge at nightfall. She was beautiful then; but when I saw her on the +banks of the Red River she was disfigured. A broken collar bone and +a flattened nose were the results of her disobedience. She returned +quickly; her only cause of anxiety being that she could not travel +nights for fear of passing her own village. + +But among the Pale-faces Weeping Weasel learned that the custom +was different. He found the wife frittered away her time while the +husband was at the counting-room or office. If he commanded her to +abstain from the round dances, she danced them; if he ordered her +east, she went west; if he asked her to attend church, she preferred +the opera; if he expressed a desire for the sea-shore, she chose the +mountains of New Hampshire. Weeping Weasel, with the cunning of the +savage, decided that this should never be told the squaws of his +nation. + +As no man, intent upon a great mission, can hope to escape annoyances +and observation from the idle, vulgar, and indolent, this warrior +from the South found that his wearing apparel, the dress of his +fathers, and the habit of his tribe, was a matter of curious comment +even among those busy people. His clothes were good enough for him, +and there were no fashion plates and paper patterns in use among the +Kiowas. Still, at a council held at one time for the general good of +the tribe, a daring innovator had, as a protection against snakes +while marching, suggested that the boots of the Pale-face be adopted. +A pair had been found amongst their war plunder at one time, and had +been examined curiously by all the tribe. + +In an institution for the sick, Weeping Weasel saw in a padded cell +a maniac, confined and chained to the floor. He held a wisp of straw +in his mouth, his clothes were torn to tatters, his hands cut and +bleeding, foam issued from his mouth and mingled with blasphemy +from his lips. His cries for salvation from invisible enemies were +piteous. The matted hair and bloodshot eye told the Indian a tale as +graphic as the pictured rocks of his own tribe. He found that the man +was young, rich, and respected. He asked the nature of the disease, +and was carelessly told that it was “snakes in his boots.” Sadly +Weeping Weasel asked that the wire be at once ordered to carry a +message to his tribe for the immediate destruction of the boots found +among their plunder. He also wondered why the Pale-faces did not at +once destroy the serpent whose terrible folds were coiling around the +youth of their country. + +All this time Weeping Weasel’s perceptions were being quickened and +his reasoning powers enlarged. The Kiowas had always considered +the marriage tie sacred. It was true a man might have many wives, +enough to do all the work of his lodge, while he used his energies +only for war or in the pursuit of game. But once taken, the man and +woman were bound for life. No power on earth could dissolve the tie. +Infidelity in either was punished by death. But in that great city +he found courts open as the day, in which shameless men and brazen +women sought the strong arm of the law to break and tear asunder the +most sacred and binding of oaths. Weeping Weasel learned that only +a publication in an obscure newspaper was necessary to satisfy the +goddess whom Weeping Weasel had seen represented as blind-folded, +with scales in her hand. Incompatibility of temperament was often the +cause alleged. This the Indian could not understand. Among the Kiowa +husbands and wives such a thing was unknown. The husband commanded, +the wife obeyed. Weeping Weasel found after a time that this term +was used to indicate that wives had become tired of their husbands, +or husbands had grown weary of their wives. It often meant dishonest +and unholy loves, and could be construed as indicative of a thousand +things when the cord that first bound two people together had become +a gnawing, corroding chain of iron. + +The ignorant savage had not as yet found any advantage to be gained +from the civilization of the Pale-faces. Weary and sick at heart, +the pilgrim pushed on until he reached the chief city of the great +nation. He had begun to comprehend the numbers of the Pale-faces +and their strength. His brain was confused. He was so torn by +conflicting emotions that he feared his judgment would become warped +and valueless. Arriving in the great city, he learned that a man with +unlimited power had betrayed his trust and plundered the city’s +treasury of millions. Yet the blind goddess had thrown around him +all possible shields to cover his glaring rascality. He had banded +with him an army of thieves. Again a great hall of justice had been +the means used to rob and plunder the people at will. Before public +exposure the thing had been a byword and a jest at the clubs. + +The man who had done all this had risen to power from the ranks of +the common people. Weeping Weasel wondered if he had risen to power +by his rascality. But conscious that he was ignorant and a savage, he +rejected the thought as unmanly. + +When a warrior among the Kiowas betrayed a public trust he was +terribly punished. But one such case had ever been handed down in the +traditions of their tribe. In that instance the culprit had been led +in a circle surrounded by all his tribe—every man, woman, and child +was present—the silence was fearful; then the body of the victim was +covered with the broad leaves of the prickly pear, and they were one +by one set on fire. The punishment seemed to have been effectual. + +Next morning our Indian appeared at the city hall to witness the +torture; again he waited until noon, and as no steps had been taken +against the wrong-doer, he concluded, to say the least, that the +white man was slow in punishing criminals. + +The Kiowas had always paid great attention to the rearing of their +children, and especially exercised great care and foresight over +the girls, who were to become future mothers of the warriors of the +tribe. No Indian girl of six or twelve years could be absent from her +lodge after the fall of evening dew. She knew no lovers until she had +arrived at the age and estate of womanhood. Among the Pale-faces this +custom did not obtain. Weeping Weasel saw misses of tender age, in +pinafores, give large parties to other children; boys were invited. +He saw childish eyes sparkle with bandied jest and compliments +fit only for mature years. He saw children, excited by the dance, +intoxicated with music, satiated with rich food, spend the best hours +of the night in gay and reckless dissipation. + +At certain seasons of the year the Chickasaw plum furnished much of +the food used by his tribe. If the pure white dust was brushed from +its surface when half-ripe, it never fruited in perfection. Weeping +Weasel found that the Pale-faces often brushed the dust of the plum +from the cheek of childhood. + +The Kiowa woman was to him the model of physical beauty; her large +waist, broad, strong shoulders, the strength of limb, elastic, +springing step, and downcast eyes were such as he deemed fitting for +women who were to rear the future braves of their race. + +Among the Pale-faces he found that maternity was a burden to be +avoided; that the waist was contracted by springs of steel; the body +thrown forward at an angle upon the hips by strong pieces of wood +placed under the heels; the face was covered by a vile compound +which looked like flour, or was painted as the savage paints when +he marches to battle or prepares for the sun dance. Curious to +ascertain the exact value of all this nonsense he made calculation, +and learned that the muslin and silk, velvet and ribbons, paint and +powder, flowers and bits of steel, amounted to about four hundred +and fifty-three dollars. That is to say, in the Kiowa computation, +forty-five and a half horses. + +Weeping Weasel determined to be silent upon this manifest absurdity +of the Pale-face women. + +The Kiowa women wore the hair straight down their backs and combed +away from their eyes. The daughters of the Pale-faces cut theirs +short in front and allowed it, except when curled by hot irons, +which the damp strangely affected, to fall into their eyes. The +meaning and mystery of this Weeping Weasel never attempted to fathom. + +Besides the Great Spirit whom the Kiowas worshiped in common, each +Indian had a personal god to whom alone he was responsible. This god +was the conscience of the savage, and above it was only the commands +of the Great Spirit. His religion was always with him; it was his +shield and strength in the day of battle, his comfort in time of +peace: he heard it in the whispering of the wind and the sighing +of the trees; he recognized it in the rustle of the growing grass +and the ripening grain; he felt it in the songs of birds and the +whirr of insects’ wings. It warned him in the broken watch-spring +buzz of the deadly rattlesnake; in the forms of the clouds he saw +it; in the flush of morning and the darkness of evening he knew it. +It was his only ideal of the estate of future happiness where game +would be plenty and peace eternal. The bark on which these mysteries +were written was to him sacred. The savage accepted as truth its +teachings, which long generations of Kiowas had confirmed. + +He went while in that city to hear a speaker—silver-tongued and +magnetic, who had all the graces which belong to the polished orator; +his voice was like the sound of bells to the Indian, whose nature is +ever open to the charm of this God-like gift. But he heard the man +revile, distort, and falsify the religion of the white man. He heard +him read from the sacred book, with laughing mien and careless jest, +most solemn promises. The mysteries of the creation and the origin of +the Pale-faces became in the mouth of this man as intangible as the +will-o’-the-wisp he had seen floating over his Southern swamps. + +Listening to him, and applauding to the echo, were sons and daughters +of the Pale-faces. Fair women and intelligent men accepted as +eternal truth the words of the speaker. Weeping Weasel was ashamed, +astonished, dismayed! In this desecration of religion the wild Indian +of the Southern plains thought he could dimly comprehend the future +downfall of a great nation. + +The pilgrim lost hope. Still he determined to pursue the subject to +its bitter end, and went one bright morning to the City of Churches. +Business had ceased, and the streets were quiet. In a darkened +temple, rich with stained glass, the air heavy with burning incense, +and stirred only by the notes of a great organ as it kept time +to the voices of boys who sang in angelic tones the litany of the +church, he heard an eloquent preacher tell of the wickedness and sin +of two great cities; and how, because not ten righteous men could +be found therein, they were destroyed from the face of the earth. +He also listened to the story of the wife who looked back, and was +turned into a pillar of salt. The next morning Weeping Weasel bought +a canopy of asbestos roofing, and thereafter never appeared in the +streets of either of the cities without carrying it above his head. + +Again he was shown the great marts of trade, larger than the grain +exchange of another city. Here men bought and sold scraps of paper +and the country’s gold. It was the same old scenes. Stocks went up +and down by a nod of the head, and again men were made poor in a +moment. The ruined ones were driven from the exchange, and forever +after, with wild eyes and fevered pulse, they haunted its doors and +talked, with the strange infatuation of the Indian hemp-eater, of the +rise and fall of the stocks that had ruined them. + +One terrible day Weeping Weasel saw a coin that the Pale-face used +in exchange for goods become enhanced in value three times. Wild, +haggard men clung to railings for support, so faint they could not +stand. Two unprincipled members of the exchange were the agents of +this scheme. When night came, the credit of the country had been +nearly ruined. The two conspirators slunk to a hotel that was soon +surrounded by a howling mob. Trade and industry were impaired, +commerce nearly swept from the sea and land, and credit almost lost +by the act of those two men. Weeping Weasel again determined that +gambling should forever be prohibited among his people, even the +throw of the six cherry stones for a quart of Chickasaw plums. + +Among the Kiowas the public singer of the tribe’s heroic deeds was +a warrior, always well paid for his services. He had the warmest +seat in the lodge, and at the feast of dog-meat the tenderest piece; +but the newspaper man of the Pale-faces was lean, ill-fed, and most +lightly paid. Weeping Weasel found that medicines for the cure of all +diseases were sold in bottles, and that the proprietors waxed rich. +The savage concluded that all the Pale-faces could drink, but that +few could read. + +In settling disputes among the Kiowas, all matters in question were +referred to a council composed of fifteen elders of the tribe. Each +principal laid his case before the tribunal with all the clearness +possible, in order that a just decision might be reached. Among the +Pale-faces the Indian found a class of men skilled in the preparation +of causes in dispute. From long practice, close study, and great +care, these men, who talked only of others’ rights and not of their +own, had become so skillful that white was made black, and black +white, as each argued his own point. Doubt was thrown upon the most +open and public transactions. Witnesses swore to the most improbable +events, and to occurrences they had never seen. In their harangues +before the elders each quoted the same statutes in the same words, +as applicable to his side of the cause. There were fierce disputes +and incessant wrangling. Weeping Weasel determined that this kind of +practice should never obtain a footing in his tribe. + +The Kiowas had always considered sacred the life of each member of +the tribe. In their rude and barbarous code there was no deviation +from the rule of “blood for blood;” it was as unchangeable as the +“Laws of the Medes and Persians.” In a court of justice Weeping +Weasel saw a man arraigned who had wantonly slain a brother by +sending a bullet through his heart. The crime had been seen by many; +there was no conflicting evidence; it was premeditated; but again the +counselors covered the case with doubt. The murderer had a bright, +intelligent face and an undimmed intellect. Weeping Weasel heard +him acquitted on the ground of temporary emotional insanity. The +proceedings of that court were unfit for the uncivilized Kiowa. + +Among the Kiowas, the position of medicine-man was one of great honor +and trust, but extremely hazardous to the incumbent. When a warrior +sickened the medicine-man was at once summoned. With rude rites, much +beating of drums and strange incantations, he sought to drive away +the disease. Sometimes he was unsuccessful and the patient died. When +the corpse of his mismanagement was ready for burial the medicine-man +was summoned, and he always came. He was divested of all his titles +to respect, all the trophies he had gained by successful practice of +physic, and manfully met his death on the scaffold with his victim. + +Such was not the custom among the Pale-faces. Everywhere Weeping +Weasel saw gilt-lettered signs of the medicine-man of the whites; +yet the Pale-faces died, and the same medicine-man ministered to +another. The savage also noticed that in this strange country the +physician never attended the burial of his victim. Weeping Weasel +concluded that the death of the doctor had once been a custom among +the Pale-faces, but having fallen into disuse the fraternity attended +no funerals for fear it might be revived. + +Among the medicine-men of the Pale-faces, Weeping Weasel found a +class who with pictures and posters attracted the eye to fabulous +certificates of wonderful cures. They resided in great houses wherein +were all comforts, and where, with endless noise and show, they +professed to cure all diseases by water, by physic, by pills, by +powders, by plasters, by new and strange remedies, even by the laying +on of hands. He found that while regular practitioners were allowed +to live, these people fared better even than they. They waxed fat +and grew rich upon the credulity of an ignorant public. They lived +and moved in the open glare of the noonday sun. After all he had +seen, Weeping Weasel ceased to wonder at the strange epidemics that +sometimes prevailed among the Pale-faces. + +He saw long trains, drawn by the mysterious Pongo man, and managed by +underpaid and careless workmen, collide with other trains, and as a +result men and women were killed and children maimed; yet no one was +punished. + +Our pilgrim now turned his face toward the capital of the great +nation. One of the three horrible shapes shown him by Stone-Shirt +must inevitably become his. But he did not look back. Civilization +had caused him to think of the exhortations of the Pale-faced +preacher. He “remembered Lot’s wife.” + +The Massachusetts school teachers had displayed in rude letters +on the walls of the lodge in which they taught this text from the +scriptures: “The wicked flee when no man pursueth.” In the city in +which Weeping Weasel had just arrived he found that an officer of +the Pale-face warriors was a defaulter to the sum of many thousands +of the coins of his people. He was shamefully untrue! His position +and name had been used to further defraud. There were no extenuating +circumstances—there could be none. But the officer escaped, and no +one followed and brought him back. Weeping Weasel was glad that he +had burned the teachers at the stake, for he concluded they had +willfully misrepresented the text hung upon the walls of the lodge, +and that it should have read, “No man pursueth when the wicked flee.” + +In the Kiowa tribe all the councils were held and the proceedings +argued in a grave and dignified manner. The pipe, signifying good +will and friendship, was first passed around. Each warrior touched it +with his lips. That day on the banks of the Red River, when Weeping +Weasel attempted to tell me of the councils of the elders of the +white man, his breath was short, and much of what he said was lost. + +In that city he was told offices were bargained for; the daughters +of the Pale-faces solicited them for their husbands and friends. He +saw a cabinet minister fall from his high place through the sale of +paltry positions. + +Worn, harassed and broken in spirit, his pilgrimage useless, as no +good could, in his opinion, come to the savage from the white man’s +civilization, Weeping Weasel turned his face towards the setting sun. +He traveled as before, sleeping at night under the stars, and again +his drink came from limpid streams; but his food was procured by a +revolver and magazine gun of the Pale-faces. Civilization had taught +him the deadly effect of these weapons which he afterward used upon +his enemies and the Pale-faces themselves. + +He returned to his tribe. His coming was seen from afar. Without a +word he entered his lodge: he had no greeting for his faithful wives +who clustered around him. + +Three days passed, and then Weeping Weasel told to his people the +story of his pilgrimage, told what he had seen and heard, and the +conclusions he had drawn therefrom. With barbarous splendor he was +tried for the crime of falsehood, which is capital among Indians, all +the men, women and children of the tribe serving as judges. + +In a great amphitheater of rock, at the junction of the Pecos with +the Rio Bravo del Norte, where the swift rush and meeting of the two +rivers forms a whirlpool from which nothing can escape, the public +trials of the tribe were held, the people sitting for days in solemn +judgment. If sentence of death was decreed the body was thrown into +this fearful eddy, and watched by all the tribe as it whirled, +leaped, and sprang in the boiling water until its final disappearance. + +For generations and generations the gray and frowning rocks had +witnessed the trials of offenders among the Kiowas. On one side rose +sloping to the bluff a half-circle of trees. So thickly grew the +branches of those pines and cedars that but scant sunlight could +filter through them. Custom had decreed that if, at the moment of +passing sentence, a ray of light should penetrate those thickly +mingled branches and fall upon the face of the criminal, one-half of +the sentence should be remitted. + +The trial was as great as the occasion. Eagle Face, the oldest +medicine-man of the tribe, was master of ceremonies. Flowing Hair, +the favorite wife of Weeping Weasel, who had at one time, during five +days of starvation, fed her first-born boy with blood drawn from her +breast, was there, but silent, in her great fear, as became an Indian +woman. Circumstances were against the pilgrim. Those wild savages +could by no argument be brought to believe that there were such +uncivilized people upon the face of the earth. If it were true, how +could they live together? It was decided that sentence of death must +be passed. + +The chief, proud and defiant, took his stand against the half-circle +of trees. Below, the pool was lashing itself into anger from a rising +river. Flowing Hair had thrown herself at his feet as if to interpose +her womanly strength against the dread sentence of an undeviating +Indian code. At that moment a broad, imprisoned ray of light that +had been entangled among the pines escaped and fell, in all its +trembling warmth and pitying tenderness, upon the face of the wild +Indian who had told the truth. In its soft caress it embraced the +form of his fainting squaw. + +Weeping Weasel escaped capital punishment, but was deposed from civil +authority over the Kiowas, and was only obeyed as their supreme +war-chief. His sentence further banished him, when stricken by death, +from his tribe and from burial with his brethren. This was why I +found him while dying, surrounded only by his family, on the banks of +the Red River. + +On the night of his death, to comfort a poor, dying soul, whose +future seemed bright enough—although his religion was not mine—I told +him, in the sign language, which his glazed and closing eyes could +but dimly see, that, in my opinion, his tribe was nearer civilization +than he dreamed, since to advanced ideas his sentence seemed just, +and that he had only suffered the fate of all reformers. + + + + + TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE + + Some hyphens in words have been silently removed, some added, + when a predominant preference was found in the original book. + + Except for those changes noted below, all misspellings in the text, + and inconsistent or archaic usage, have been retained. + + Pg 21, 23: Three occurrences of ‘General Cullom’ replaced by + ‘General Cullum’. + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 75558 *** |
