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| author | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-03-01 11:21:05 -0800 |
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| committer | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-03-01 11:21:05 -0800 |
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diff --git a/75494-0.txt b/75494-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..edfe9fe --- /dev/null +++ b/75494-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,23203 @@ + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 75494 *** + + + + + +Transcriber’s Notes: + + Underscores “_” before and after a word or phrase indicate _italics_ + in the original text. + Equal signs “=” before and after a word or phrase indicate =bold= + in the original text. + Small capitals have been converted to SOLID capitals. + Illustrations have been moved so they do not break up paragraphs. + Deprecated spellings have been preserved. + Typographical and punctuation errors have been silently corrected. + + + + +[Illustration: =FRONTISPIECE=] + + _She stretcheth out her hand to the Poor.— + _She looketh well to the ways of her Household._ + _Provˢ. 31 Ch._ + +Frontispiece to the Work Woman’s Guide.—Pubᵈ. by Stephen Marshall & Cᵒ. + + + + + THE + WORKWOMAN’S GUIDE, + + CONTAINING + + INSTRUCTIONS TO THE INEXPERIENCED IN CUTTING OUT AND COMPLETING + THOSE ARTICLES OF WEARING APPAREL, &c., WHICH ARE USUALLY + MADE AT HOME; ALSO, EXPLANATIONS ON UPHOLSTERY, + STRAW PLATTING, BONNET-MAKING, KNITTING, &c. + + BY A LADY. + + “_METHOD SHORTENS LABOUR._” + + LONDON: + SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, AND CO., STATIONERS’ HALL COURT: + THOMAS EVANS, COLMORE ROW, BIRMINGHAM. + 1838. + + BIRMINGHAM: + PRINTED BY THOMAS EVANS, COLMORE ROW. + + + + +PREFACE. + + “But to know + That which before us lies in daily life; + Is the prime wisdom.” + MILTON. + +The Author of the following pages has been encouraged to hope, that, +in placing them, after much deliberation, in the hands of a printer, +she is tendering an important and acceptable, however humble, service +to persons of her own sex, who, in any condition of life, are engaged, +by duty, or inclination, in cutting out wearing apparel in a family, +or for their poorer neighbours. She trusts, in particular, that +Clergymen’s Wives, Young Married Women, School-mistresses, and Ladies’ +Maids may find, in the “Workwoman’s Guide,” a fast and serviceable +friend. + +The patterns, which comprise all the necessary parts of clothing in +great variety, to suit both rich and poor, have been some years in +collecting, and are given as the most generally approved shapes and +sizes in present use. Economy and neatness of appearance have been +equally consulted in choosing them, and all have been successfully +tried. In selecting and arranging the Infant’s wardrobe, the comfort of +the little wearers and ease of dressing, have been accurately studied. +Interested by the feelings of a Mother in this division of her book, +the Author has worked at it with especial zeal and assiduity, and +submits it with particular confidence. + +To assist the unpractised in understanding the written descriptions, +almost every pattern is likewise drawn twice (see Plates), so as not +only to represent its appearance when cut out, but also when made up. +The difficulty of describing irregular and complicated shapes has +been obviated by enclosing each in a square, marked with a scale of +nails; by which means, even sleeves, collars, capes, and bonnets can +be cut out with unfailing precision. In a charity school, for which +the Author was much interested, and for the use of which, both her +collection of patterns was originally begun, and her drawings made, +girls from ten to sixteen years of age were in the constant habit of +cutting out correctly and easily, with no other guidance than the +drawings. To sketch the pattern on a slate, and to cut it out first in +paper, was all the facility afforded to, or needed by, beginners. + +The Reader, as she advances, will see that this work is not confined to +the simply cutting out and making up articles of dress, but likewise +includes the important subjects of House Linen and Upholstery, and that +the minor branches of knitting and straw platting have their places. +Directions which, it is trusted, will be found useful, respecting +various other points of domestic industry, are not omitted. + +On the general plan of the work, and the motives which have induced +the writer to venture it before the Public, she need not, perhaps, say +more. A few words are near her heart, which she does not resist the +temptation of adding. + +A woman, who in the upper classes of society, has taken her place at +the head of a family, has undertaken a high and responsible situation; +but one, in which, by daily attention to certain humble details, she +can essentially serve the welfare of some who are dear to her, and of +many who are dependent on her. + +The Author, as an Englishwoman, reflects with pride upon the number +of her country women, whom the gifts of nature, and a brilliant or +careful education enables to grace their place in society. She believes +that very many of them are further qualified, as far as good will +and natural intelligence can go, to discharge those humbler, but not +less honourable, parts of their calling, to which she has alluded, +but are deterred from applying to them (or much embarrassed if they +do), from finding that, whilst they are proficients in many beautiful +accomplishments, and not without cultivation in the more solid parts +of information, they are yet mere novices in other unostentatious +attainments, that have become indispensable to their domestic +efficiency. The complete remedy for this inconvenience can only be +found in making some further knowledge of domestic arts and economy a +prominent part of the education of our daughters; home and school must +both be called upon to contribute. Amongst the arts in question, the +homely one of cutting out is entitled to rank high, for subserviency +to comfort and elegance, as well as to economy, whenever this is an +object, and in what fortune can it wisely be neglected? It is one which +may seem peculiarly fitted to be taught in schools, by the conveniency +of the means for teaching, by its cleanliness, and, if the Author may +be allowed to say so, by its intellectual character, since to cut +out well, it is necessary to think, and indeed the art, continually +depending upon exact measurements, proportions and even correct +diagrams, or figures, must be considered as a sort of unassuming +household mathematics. Dress, it seems, has of late been admitted by +philosophical critics to the dignity of a fine art: it both requires +and cultivates taste, and the consideration of a pleasing effect and +air in dress is first applied in the cutting out. + +No one who has not been a frequent visitor in the homes of the poor, +is aware of the extravagance and waste usual among women of a humble +class, arising from their total ignorance in matters of cutting out +and needle-work, nor how much instruction they want on those points, +even to the making of a petticoat and a pinafore. The same ignorance +and unskilfulness, and the same consequent waste of laborious and +scanty earnings is common among our female household servants; who, by +putting out their clothes to dress-makers, pay nearly half as much for +the making up as for the materials. The direct saving of expense upon +articles of dress, were they qualified to work for themselves, would, +with all persons in these conditions of life, be an important annual +item. But the indirect and further benefit would be of infinitely more +account. The thrifty disposition, the regularity and neatness, the +ideas of order and management, inspired by the conscious ability and +successful exertion, in one leading branch of good housewifery, cannot +be too highly prized or diligently cultivated; for the result is moral. +The orderly house but reflects the orderly mind; the humble wife and +mother, whose active indefatigable hand, silently executing her careful +ingenious thought, improves the comforts, the visible respectability, +and real condition of her husband and children, is mistress of a secret +for blending her best and tenderest affections with the employment of +every day: she contrives judiciously what she constantly and earnestly +meditates, and finds no weariness in the labour to which strength +continually flows from a deep fountain in her heart. + +Personal investigation alone can satisfy those ladies who interest +themselves in the welfare of the poor, how useful a kindness they would +exercise in making efficient systematic instruction, in these arts, an +ordinary and important part of school business. + +Could the Author hope that the little work, in which she has +endeavoured to arrange the elements of cutting out progressively, +would ever be admitted as a manual in the village school-room, a +cherished wish of her heart would be gratified; in the mean time, she +will be glad to think, that she may have saved some wives and mothers, +entering upon their arduous vocations, a part of the inconveniences +experienced by herself, although accounted a tolerable workwoman in the +general acceptation of the term, when, on assuming the former of these +characters, she was compelled to rely on her own resources. + +The Author must here acknowledge her obligations to that valuable +little work “Cottage Comforts;” also to the “Teacher’s Assistant +in Needlework” and “Knitting,” and a few others, for some useful +suggestions. + + + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS. + + + CHAPTER I. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON NEEDLEWORK. + Comprising Plain Stitches, Fancy Stitches, Marking, + Darning, Braiding, &c. General Rules for completing Work. + + CHAPTER II. A FEW OBSERVATIONS ON PURCHASING GOODS. + + CHAPTER III. GENERAL RULES FOR CUTTING OUT. + + CHAPTER IV. THE WORK-BOX. + + CHAPTER V. ON BABY LINEN, WITH SCALES FOR THE CLOTHES OF + OLDER CHILDREN. Caps; Cockades; Rosettes; Infants’ + Open Shirts; first Flannel Gowns; Flannel Bands; + Night-gowns; Pinafores; Petticoats; Robes; Receiver; + Shawl; Flannel Cloak; Child’s Bib; Infants’ Pelisses and + Cloaks; Infant’s Hood; Cots; Cribs; Cradles; Basket; + Pincushion. + + CHAPTER VI. LINEN FOR MEN, WOMEN, GIRLS, AND BOYS. + Women’s Shifts; Child’s Shifts; Child’s Trowsers; + Girl’s Trowsers; Trowsers for Girls or Boys; Leglets; + Women’s Drawers; Turkish Trowsers; Men’s Drawers; + Women’s Night Jackets; Night-gowns; Flannel Waistcoat + for a Lady; Boys’ Waistcoats; Man’s Under Waistcoat; + Boy’s Upper Waistcoat; Child’s Night Vest; Child’s + Day Vest; Bathing Gown; Women’s Night-caps; Caps for + poor Women; Caps for Servants; Caps for School girls; + Bathing Cap; Dressing-gowns for Men; Dressing-gowns for + Women; Cloak Dressing-gown; Dressing Jacket; Flannel + Petticoats; Pockets; Frills; Cuffs; Tidy Cuffs; Mourning + Cuffs; Aprons; Dress Aprons; Working Aprons; Apron + Pockets; Grocers’ Aprons; Cooking Apron; Pantry Apron; + Gentleman’s Working Apron; Neck-tie; Scarfs; Women’s + Stays; Nursing Stays; Men’s Stays or Belts; Children’s + Stays; Bustles; Veils; Long and short Sleeves for + Children; Long and short Sleeves for grown-up Persons; + Old Woman’s Sleeve; Boy’s Sleeve; Shoulder-pieces; + Capes; Collars; Riding Collar; Habit-shirt; Chemisette; + School-girl’s Tippet; Petticoats; Nursing Petticoat; + Gowns; General observations on Colours; On the making + up and choosing Dresses; General observations on + cutting out Dresses; Bodies of Gowns—high, low, full, + plain; On trimming Bodies of low Dresses; Nursing + Gowns; Children’s Frocks and Tunics; Boy’s Surtout; + Child’s Pelisses; Day-caps; Morning Caps; Bonnet Caps; + Cap for an Old Lady; Caps for the Society of Friends; + Lappets; Widow’s Cap; Velvet or Silk Cap; Care of the + Lady’s Wardrobe; To fold up Dresses and Frocks; General + observations on Packing; Care of the Gentleman’s + Wardrobe; Mourning and Dress at Funerals; Pinafores + and Saccarines for Children; Housemaid’s Pinafore; + School-girl’s Pinafore; Surgeon’s Pinafore; Waggoner’s + Smock-frock; Shirts for the Labouring Classes; + Gentlemen’s Shirts; Gentlemen’s Shirt Fronts; Boys’ + Shirt Fronts; Gentlemen’s Stocks; Clergyman’s Dress; The + Cassock; The Gown; The Surplice; The Sash; Scarf; Bands; + The Clerk’s Gown; Children’s Bonnets; Hats and Caps for + Boys; Travelling Caps; Lady’s Riding Cap; Working Man’s + Cap; Women’s Bonnets; Old Women’s Bonnets; Bonnet for a + Member of the Society of Friends; School-girl’s Bonnet; + Oiled Silk Hood; Calèche; Women’s Cloaks; Mantelet or + short Cloak; Carriage Cloak; Old Woman’s Cloak and + Hood; School-girl’s Cape or Cloak; Boy’s Cloak; Shawls; + Shawl for a Member of the Society of Friends; Quilted + Shawl; Mourning Shawl; Spencers for Children; Tippet + and Sleeves; Neck Handkerchiefs; Pocket Handkerchiefs; + Bridal Favours; Men’s Slippers; Ladies’ Slippers; + Travelling or Over-shoes; Half-slippers; Carriage + Slippers; Babies’ Shoes; On covering Shoes; Gloves; On + Down and Fur; Muffs; Boas; Tippets; Operas or Ruffs; To + clean Fur and Down; To preserve Fur. + + CHAPTER VII. HOUSE LINEN. Division into Bed-room, Table + and Pantry, Housemaid’s, Kitchen, and Stable Linen; + Number required, kinds to be chosen, size and price of + each; Sheets; Pillow-slips; Towels; Toilette or Dressing + Table Covers; Table Cloths; Dinner Napkins; Doyleys; + Knife-box Cloths; Pantry Knife Cloths; Pantry Dresser + Cloths; Plate-basket Cloth; Pantry China Cloths; Pantry + Glass Cloths; Pantry Lamp Cloths; Waiting Gloves; + Housemaid’s Dusters; Scouring Flannels; Paint Cloths; + Chamber Bottle Cloths; Chamber Bucket Cloths; Clothes + Bags; Kitchen Table Cloths; Dresser Cloths; Roller + Cloths; Dusters; Tea Cloths; Jelly Bags; Ham Bags; + Cheese Cloths; Stable Linen; General observations on + Linen; On marking House Linen; Linen Press; Washing + Books—Nursery Washing Book; Lady’s Washing Book; + Gentleman’s Washing Book; House Linen Washing Book. + + CHAPTER VIII. UPHOLSTERY. General observations; + Bedsteads—all their parts and the different kinds; + Hints on putting up Beds; On furnishing Beds; General + observations on the choice and arrangement of Drapery + for Beds; On the Heads and Tops of Beds; Footboards; + The Half-tester; French Pole Bed; French Arrow Bed; + French Bed; French Block Bed; French Canopy Bed; Turn-up + Bed; Press Bed; Stump Bed; Trestle Bed; Hanging Bed or + Cot; Mattresses; Beds; Bolsters and Pillows; Blankets; + Counterpanes; Watch-Pockets; Carpets; List of different + kinds; General observations on making up Carpets; Window + Curtains—Various kinds of Drapery for Windows; Curtains + for a Passage or Church Window; Muslin Curtains; Half + Curtains; Full Curtains; Rod Curtain; Window Blinds; + Chair, Sofa, and other Covers; Divan; Footstools and + Hassocks; Church Basses; Church Seats; Table Covers; + Screens. + + CHAPTER IX. COVERS, CASES, &C. Night-gown Bag; + Travelling Dressing-case or Tidy; Glove Cases; Pocket + Handkerchief Case; Shoe or Brush and Comb Bags; Shoe + Bags; Mat; Boot Bags; Nursery Bag; Book Covers; Trunk + Cover; Knife or Fork Case; Card Case; Candlestick Case; + Nosegay Case; Wool Case; Housewife; Yard Measure; + Pincushions; Bags; Needle Case; Work Basket; Travelling + Bag; School-girl’s Badge; Carriage Case or Portfolio; + Travelling Portfolio; Seaman’s or Traveller’s Case; + Gentleman’s Travelling Dressing-Case; Watch Pocket; + Invalid’s Chair. + + CHAPTER X. RECEIPTS. Marking Ink; Red Marking Ink; To + remove Marking Ink; Salts of Lemon; To take out Ink + without Salts of Lemon; Bleaching Liquid; To remove + Stains; Scouring Drops; To remove Grease; To take out + Mildew; To take out Iron-moulds; To remove Paint Spots; + To clean Silks and Cottons; To restore scorched Linen; + To clean Calico Furniture; To clean Chintz; To scour + Carpets; To wash Silk Handkerchiefs; To wash coloured + Muslins, &c.; To restore the colour of Linen; To wash + China-crape Scarfs, &c.; To wash Blonde; To wash Lace; + To wash Kid Gloves; To clean white Satin Shoes; To keep + Blonde, &c.; To dye Gloves like York-Tan or Limerick; To + dye white Gloves purple; Wash for Leather Gloves; To dye + Cotton a Nankeen colour; To dye the Linings of Furniture + buff or salmon colour; To clean Gold and Silver Lace; + To preserve Linen from Moths; To preserve Woollens and + Blankets; To preserve Furs and Woollens from Moths; To + varnish old Straw or Chip Hats; To raise the surface of + Velvet; To make Starch; To make Court Plaister; Lavender + Water; Eau de Cologne; Powder for Infants’ Dust Bags; + Pot-Pourri; Scent Bags; To make Shoes Waterproof; + Remedy against Fleas; Remedy against Bugs; To destroy + Bugs; To destroy Flies; General observations on Washing + and Ironing; List of Articles required in a Laundry; + Washing; Hanging to dry; Mangling and Ironing; Clear + Starching; Gaufiering. + + CHAPTER XI. KNITTING. Knitting Pins; Materials for + Knitting; Knit Stitches; Casting on Stitches; Common + Knitting Stitch; Dutch common Knitting; Turn or Seam + Stitch; Widening; Narrowing; Slipping a Stitch; + Finishing off; Welting; Binding; Fancy Stitches; Double + Knitting; Open Hem Stitch; Honey-comb Stitch; French + Stitch; Fantail Stitch; Network Stitch; Open Cross + Stitch; Berlin Wire Stitch; Plain open Stitch; Crowsfoot + Stitch; Chain Stitch; Embossed Hexagon Stitch; Common + Plat; Elastic Rib; Rough-cast or Huckaback Stitch; + Embossed Diamond Stitch; Ladder Stitch; Imitation Double + Knitting; Herring-bone Stitch; Purse Stitch; Lace wave + Stitch; Herring-bone Bag Stitch; Improved Open Stitch; + Shawl Pattern; Cross-stitch Pattern; Curb Stitch; + Ribbed Stitch; Diamond Stitch; Raised French Stitch; + Two coloured Chain Stitch; Rug Stitch; The Nondescript; + A New Stitch; Muffatee Stitch; Knit Fringes; Fringe and + Border; Stockings—General proportions for Stockings; + Scale for Stockings; Socks; Garters; Socks for Babies; + Babies’ Socks or Slippers; Child’s long Sock; Child’s + first Stocking; The Ribbed Boot; The Over shoe; The + Snow-heel; Little Night Boots; Socks for Invalids; + Knit Boots; Scale for Knit Boots; Night Socks; Knit + Sole; Knee Cap; Knit Gloves; Driving Mits; Mittens for + Babies; Mittens; Armlets; Muffatees; Frill or Ruff; + Scarf; Comforter; Handkerchief; Knit Habit-shirt; + Knit Half-handkerchief; Honey-comb Shawl; A Tippet; A + Purse; A Baby’s Knitted Cap; Baby’s Hood; Gentleman’s + Night-cap; Knitted Bags; Kettle Holders; Knit Open + Braid; Mats; Coverlet; Blankets; Knit Cotton Doyleys. + + CHAPTER XII. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON STRAW PLATTING. + Apparatus required; Bleaching Box; Mill for the Plat; + Bonnet Stand; Box Iron; Dyeing Kettle; Straw Splitter; + On preparing Straw; On Bleaching Straw; Dyeing Straw + black; Directions for Platting; Plats; Plats of Three; + Plat of Four; Angular Plat of Four; Plat of Five; Plats + of Six; Plats of Seven; Plats of Eight; Plats of Nine; + Plats of Ten; Plats of Eleven; Plat of Twelve; Plats + of Thirteen; Plat of Fourteen; Plat of Fifteen; Plat + of Sixteen; Hollow Spiral Straw work; The Tuscan Hat; + English Leghorn Plat; Bonnets; Receipts for Stiffening; + On cleaning Bonnets; Turning Bonnets; Hats; Mats; To + make Bobbin Tape. + +[Illustration: PLATE 1. + +Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 5 Fig 6 + +Fig 7 Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 12 + +Fig 8 Fig 11 Fig 13] + + + + +PART FIRST. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +A FEW GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON NEEDLEWORK. + + + “But here the needle plies its busy task.”—COWPER. + +See that the edges of the work are perfectly even before turning +down, which should be done to a thread, unless the work is not cut +straight-wise. + +The needle and cotton should be adapted to the quality of the work, +and when the latter is very fine, rovings taken from it, and used as +thread, are very good for the purpose. + +The cotton should be always worked the way it unwinds from the reel, +for this reason, the needle had better be threaded before cutting off +the cotton. + +The thimble should be worn on the second finger of the right hand. The +needle, while being threaded, is held in the left hand, and the cotton +in the right. + +The scissors, when used, should have the thumb placed in the upper +ring, and the third finger in the lower: they should also be held with +the sharper point uppermost. + +When work is very strong, the thread used in making it up should be +strengthened by waxing. + +Thread is much more durable than cotton, and it should therefore be +used in working all kinds of linen. + +Cottons are better for calico, muslin, &c. + +All kinds of threads and cottons, especially when coloured, should be +kept (when not in use) wrapped up in brown paper, as the air is apt to +decay them. + +Sewing silks should be wrapped up in soft wash-leather. + +Buttons, hooks and eyes, tapes, &c. are all better kept folded up, as +they are apt to tarnish and decay. + +Needles, scissors, and all kinds of steel, injure materially when +exposed much to the air, especially at the sea coast. + + +HEMMING. + +Turn down the raw edge twice very evenly, and flatten it with the thumb +and finger, taking care to arrange the corners nicely. + +In _beginning_ to hem, point your needle from your chest towards the +right, and after drawing the thread nearly through, stroke the end +under the hem, so as to keep it fast without the assistance of a knot, +which is always untidy. When your needleful is used, cut off the end, +leaving just sufficient to stroke under the hem. In fastening off +effectually, sew several stitches close together, and cut off the +thread closely. Hem from right to left. + + +SEWING AND FELLING. + +The work for sewing is thus prepared: the two selvages are placed +together, or if there are no selvages, the raw edge of one piece is +turned down once, and the edge of the other piece is turned down double +the width, and then half the width is turned back again for the fell. +The two pieces are pinned or basted together, with the parts turned +down face to face, and held firmly between the finger and thumb: the +thread is fastened on by pressing the end carefully into the seam with +the needle, and working over it. The stitches should be just deep +enough to keep the parts strongly together; they should also lie in a +slanting direction, at even distances from each other. When the seam +is sewn, the finger should be placed under it, while the thumb nail +flattens it down. Turn the work on the other side, and fell the seam +just the same as in hemming. + + +MANTUA-MAKERS’ HEMMING. + +This is often used instead of sewing, for bags and sleeves that have +no linings, or skirts of petticoats, &c., and the work is prepared +as follows. Lay the raw edge of one piece a little below that of the +other, then turn the upper edge over the lower, twice, as in hemming, +and fell it securely down. + + +STITCHING. + +Having observed that your work is quite even, turn down a piece to +stitch to, count twelve or fourteen threads from the edge, and draw a +thread to stitch upon. In stitching, take two threads back, and pass +the needle so as to come out from under two before. Join on a fresh +piece of thread by passing the needle between the edges, and bringing +it out where the last stitch left off. + + +GATHERING. + +Observe that the part going to be gathered is cut evenly and straight. +Divide the piece into half, and then into quarters, putting pins at the +divisions as marks; do the same with the piece to which it is to be +gathered, by which means the fulness will be equal. + +Begin about twelve or fourteen threads from the top, take up three +threads on your needle and miss four, more or less according to the +fulness required: when a quarter is done, draw the gatherings pretty +closely, and secure the thread by twisting it round a pin; then stroke +the gathers nicely down, one at a time, with a large needle, so as to +make them lie closely and evenly together. Afterwards, untwist the +thread from the pin, and loosen the gathers till you have made the +quarter gathered, correspond with the quarter to which it is to be +sewn. Fasten the thread again firmly to a pin, and sew the gathers +strongly on, one at a time, letting the stitches take a slanting +direction, so as to slip between the gathers. + + +RUNNING. + +The work for running must be prepared by putting the two edges exactly +together, if they are both selvages; but if they are raw edges and +afterwards to be felled, one raw edge must be turned down once, and the +other laid upon it a few threads from the top. It should be run about +six threads below the turned down part. Take three threads and leave +three, and back-stitch occasionally, to keep the work firm. + + +DOUBLE GATHERING OR PUFFING. + +PLATE 1. FIG. 3, 4. + +Double gathering or puffing is sometimes used in setting on frills, +and gives a very neat finished appearance; it is done in the following +manner. Gather your frill at the top, in the usual way, and stroke +it strongly down; then gather it again below the first gathering, +according to the depth of the puffing you wish to make, about half an +inch, more or less according to fancy, and sew on the first gathering +to the dressing-gown, frock, or whatever you wish to trim, at a +distance that corresponds with the width of the puffing: the second +gathering is to be sewn to the edge of the dress, so that the part +between the two gatherings forms a full hem. Some people make three +gatherings, and proceed in the same way, forming the two full hems +or puffings. It is usually put on straight, but sometimes in sewing +on, the hem is drawn obliquely, or to one side, which makes a little +variety, and when there are three gatherings, one hem is drawn to +one side, and the other to the opposite one, but this requires much +exactness to do it equally. + + +GERMAN HEMMING. + +German hemming or felling is a neat substitute for sewing, where it is +desirable that the seam should lie very flat; it is sometimes employed +with great advantage for sleeves, and even in the long seams of shifts. +It is quite as strong as the old method of a seam and fell, and looks +better, as it is all done on the wrong side. + +Turn down the raw edges of both your pieces of cloth once, (having +them both turned down next you,) and lay one below the other, so that +the smooth top of the lower one does not touch the edge of the upper +one, but is just below it, then hem or fell the lower one to the cloth +against which it is laid, still holding it before you, as you had +prepared it, which is exactly like hemming upside down. When you have +got to the end of your seam, open your sleeve, or whatever you are +doing, and lay the upper fold over the lower edge, which you must then +fell neatly down, and it is completed. + + +WHIPPING. + +The edge for whipping should be cut particularly smooth, and divided +into halves and quarters; the muslin is then rolled very tightly with +the left thumb upon the finger, about ten threads from the edge. The +cotton with which you whip should be very strong and even, and the +needle should be stuck in on the outside, and brought out on the +inside, the needle pointing towards your chest. Take the stitches very +evenly, and so as to draw easily. Draw the whipping up to the width +of the piece to which it is going to be sewn; pin it down, and sew it +firmly, holding the whipping towards you, and letting the stitches lie +athwart, so as to be hidden between the whips. If you stroke whipping +with a large pin or needle, in the same way as in gathering, it adds +much to its neat appearance in setting on, and makes it more easy to do. + + +BUTTON-HOLES. + +PLATE 1. FIG. 5. + +Cut the button-hole with a chisel (or the proper scissors made for that +purpose) by a thread, the same size as the width across the button. +In holding the work, let the button-hole lie length-wise along the +forefinger. Begin at the side opposite the thumb farthest from the +point of the finger. Put the needle in through the wrong side of the +hole, and bring it out five threads down on the right. The stitch is +made by putting the needle through the loop of the thread before it is +drawn close. Observe that you keep your work evenly by the thread, and +do not turn the corners too soon; the needle should be put in between +every two threads, else the work will not be thick enough. It has a +neat effect to stitch all round the button-hole. + + +HERRING-BONING. + +PLATE 1. FIG. 7, 8. + +This is a stitch generally used for flannels and other woollens, also, +for carpets, druggets, window blinds, &c. when a hem would be thick and +clumsy from being turned down twice; whereas in herring-boning the edge +is turned down only once, and lies flat and more compact. + +Turn the work down once evenly, first cutting off any woollen fuzz at +the raw edge which looks untidy, and then beginning to work from the +left of your piece of work towards the right, take a stitch of two or +three threads close under the raw turned-down edge, then put in your +needle half way up the turned-down part, and four or five threads +towards the right hand, and make another stitch of three threads; +bring down the needle, and make another stitch as before under the raw +edge, still working a few threads each time farther to the right hand, +and so on forming a stitch something like the backbone of a fish, and +therefore termed herring-bone. This same stitch done on muslin with +fine cord or braid is very ornamental, and is often used at the tops of +hems or bodies of infants’ robes. + + +DARNING. + + “A stitch in time saves nine.”—POOR RICHARD. + +The stocking or work should be held across the first and second +fingers of the left hand. In beginning to darn, the needle should be +held pointed from the chest. The work should be begun a few threads +before the hole, or even the thin place, to give a firmer hold to the +cotton. Take one thread and leave one, alternately till the row is +complete; afterwards, point the needle towards the chest, and take up +the intermediate threads which were left before. The cotton must not be +drawn tight, as it is apt to shrink in washing, therefore a loop should +be left at each end. Continue darning backwards and forwards till the +hole and thin parts are covered, afterwards begin to darn crosswise, +being particularly careful to avoid splitting the threads or pulling +the loops tight. + +Some people make a point of running the feet of new stockings all +over, which is very advisable for men and boys who wear boots, as it +preserves them much longer. + +There are a variety of stitches in darning, some of which have a very +neat appearance, among others the following:- + + Take up 1 thread and leave 2 + Take up 2 2 + Take up 1 3 + Take up 2 4 + Take up 3 3 + +Table linen, when darned, looks neater if the work is done in some +pattern; thus, a diamond or circle looks more tidy than an irregular +patch of darning. + + +ON MENDING A CRACK. + +In taking up a crack in a stocking, fasten the thread firmly on, and +then take the two half loops which are next each other on one side of +the crack, upon the needle, and having drawn the thread through them, +do the same on the other side, making the half loop, which was last +taken up on either side, the first of the next stitch. + + +ON TAKING UP A LADDER. + +A ladder is caused by the fall or dropping of a stitch, which it +is necessary to pick up as soon as possible, by putting the needle +into the loop that has fallen, and drawing the bar immediately above +through the loop, thus the bar becomes a loop in its turn, and the +next bar above is in like manner draw through it, till all are taken +up, when the last loop is well secured and darned over. + + +ON MAKING BUTTONS. + +PLATE 1. FIG. 6. + +Cover your piece of wire with a square piece of calico, which you must +double over the corners, and sew firmly in the middle; afterwards +stitch the button round close to the wire, or else work over the wire +the button-hole stitch, and in the centre, work a little regular star +to set it off. + + +ON MAKING TUCKS. + +Tucks should be very even; for this purpose, have a bit of card on +which is notched the depth of each tuck, and also the space between +them. Tucks should be run firmly in small regular stitches, constantly +taking a back-stitch as you go on. + + +MARKING. + +In marking, two threads are generally taken each way. There are three +ways in which the needle is passed before the stitch is perfect. One +is aslant from you towards the right hand; the second is straight +downwards towards you; the third is across or aslant from you towards +the left hand, taking care to bring out the needle at that corner of +the stitch nearest the one you are going to make. The generality of +markers make the first stitch aslant twice over, to make it clearer +before proceeding onwards; thus, in Plate 1, Fig. 2, the thread, being +brought out at A, passes across to B, and out again at A; again, across +to B, and out at C; then, aslant to D, and out again at B, ready to +proceed to the next stitch. Where there are two or three letters to +be marked, the thread should be neatly fastened off at the end of +each letter and not carried on from one to the other. Two or four +threads are left between the letters, according to the quality of the +article to be marked. In linen, eight threads are generally left. In +gentlemen’s families, house linen is either marked with the gentleman’s +initials, or else with those of the lady’s christian name added to +the gentleman’s full initials, his christian name coming first: thus, +supposing Edward Montagu’s wife is named Louisa, the initials would be +E. L. M., afterwards the name of the cloth and the number are marked +thus: + + E. L. M. + G. C. + 8 + ..37. + +signifying, Edward Louisa Montagu, Glass Cloth, Number 8, 1837. +There are many pretty marking patterns for samplers, flat canvass +pincushions, or needle-books. In noblemen’s families, the marks are +surmounted by coronets. There are also two other kinds of marking; +the one is the same stitch as that above described, but differing in +the form of the letters, which are in writing or Italian characters; +this may best be done by copying written letters accurately: the other +kind of marking is, by making the letters perfectly straight, as in +printing, and instead of the marking stitch, working them in small +oylet holes. + +In Plate 1, Fig. 1, the sampler drawn gives an accurate idea of the +canvass, and the shape of all the letters in the different alphabets. +The first alphabet is that in most general use; the second contains the +small letters; the third is a correct representation of the Italian +characters, which are much used for marking pocket handkerchiefs and +other fine articles of dress; the fourth and last is quite a fancy +stitch, and rarely employed. The oylet-holes are formed by working +in small stitches round each square, about four stitches in the four +corners, and four intermediate stitches between, are necessary to form +each oylet hole. + + +PIPING + +Is a neat mode of finishing capes, sleeves at the wrist, waistbands, +tops of bodies, &c., and is sewn on in the following way. + +Cut crosswise strips of silk, (or whatever other material you are +piping with,) sufficiently wide to admit well the cord, run these +strips neatly together, to make them of a proper length for the piping +you want. Some people run the silk on the cord first, before sewing +it to the piece of work; others, however, merely lay the cord neatly +inside the silk, which is then placed on the edge of the work to which +it is piped, so that the two raw edges of the strip of silk enclosing +the cord should lie on the raw edge of the work; the three thicknesses +are then all firmly run together, the stitches being made just below +the cord. When it is sewn on, the raw edges are pressed inwards, so as +to make the cord set at the edge. The lining is then neatly put in, +which covers these edges and makes all look tidy. + + +PLAITING. + +Care should be taken that the plaits lie evenly one against another, +and that they are of the same size, especially in frills, sleeves, &c. +In double plaiting, the plaits lie both ways, and look very handsome +and full in frills: it requires great care to do them evenly, without +which they will not look well. + + +ON LINING SLEEVES, BAGS, &c. + +After cutting out the lining exactly the same size as the sleeve, fold +it very carefully, so as to make the raw edges lie exactly one on the +other; do the same with the sleeve, taking care to fold the wrong side +outwards. Place the lining on the sleeve and pin them evenly together; +after which, run all the four thicknesses strongly down the seam. Put +your hand in the sleeve, and turn it inside out, drawing the lining +inside; the seam is then quite neat, both inside and outside, as the +stitches lie between the lining and the outer silk. The same should be +done with bags, and any other thing that will admit of it. + + +ON BRAIDING. + +This work can scarcely come under the head of plain work, still, as +children’s dresses are so much ornamented with it, a few observations +may be useful. The very fine flat braid should be used, as it looks +so much neater than that which is thick; it is sold in knots. Silk +braids look well on silk, merino, or muslin; but cotton is the best for +jean, prints, or stuffs. The pattern should be drawn on silver paper, +which is tacked on the piece of work, and the braid worked on it with +the same coloured sewing silk, as thread washes white. To sew on silk +braid, you should use the silk drawn out of the braid, as it is finer +and more even, and will match the colour better than any other you +can procure: cut off, therefore, a bit the length of a needleful, to +keep for the purpose of unroving. If you want to take the pattern of +a piece of work upon paper, place some letter paper on the work, and +while holding it firmly, rub the paper well with half a nutmeg, which +will mark the pattern correctly, and sufficiently distinct on the paper +to admit of its being inked afterwards. Two shades of braid sewn close +together have a pretty effect. + + +BIASSING. + +PLATE 1. FIG. 9. + +In biassing, the first part of the stitch resembles gathering, and +after stroking in down with a large needle or pin, you lay, upon the +right side of the gathers, a thread very much thicker than that you +are using in your needle; you then sew over this thread, taking hold, +at the same time, of the gathering thread, and pointing your needle to +your chest; you must be very careful to put your needle between every +gather: the thick thread, thus worked upon the gathering, has a very +neat effect, and adds much to its strength; two or three rows of it, +at short distances from each other, look very well: it is particularly +suitable for the shoulders and sleeves of dresses, and for children’s +saccarines, pelisses, &c. It is a good plan to bias with sewing and +netting silk, in preference to thread, as it is much stronger. + + +GAGING. + +This is very suitable for the fronts of children’s dresses, and the +tops of the cuffs of sleeves; it is done as follows. Take up the +stitches at regular intervals of half an inch, for the first row. For +the second, continue doing the same; letting the needle, however, take +up the intermediate parts. The third row resembles the first, and +so on. For the purpose of securing the gathers firmly, work them as +follows, with very strong netting silk. Take on your needle the two +first gathers, and the thread on which they run, pulling your thread +firmly through. For the next stitch, again take two gathers and the +thread upon your needle, letting the first of them be the last gather +that was taken up at the former stitch, so that the work proceeds but +by one gather at a time. Observe to draw the netting silk as tightly as +possible, so as to make the stitches lie very closely together, in a +slanting position. + + +HONEY-COMBING. + +PLATE 1. FIG. 10, 11. + +This sort of work is much used for the inside of the tops of +work-boxes, and sometimes for the tops and heads of beds; it is usually +done with silk, satin, or velvet, for the former; and highly-glazed +chintz or calico, for the latter. Crease your material in even folds, +taking care to have them very regular, and of a proper depth to suit +the purpose for which it is intended; with a strong thread, tack the +folds together with long stitches, so as to make them lie compactly +one against another; then, with sewing silk of the proper colour, +stitch firmly together, at moderate equal distances, the first and +second folds: afterwards, stitch the second and third folds, at +equal distances, taking your stitches in the intermediate intervals +(see Plate 1, Fig. 10 and 11). The third and fourth folds are only +repetitions of the first and second, and by continuing your work in +this way, the stitches of the alternate rows will accord with each +other. When the piece is completed, and the tacking-thread drawn +out, pull your work open, and it will form puffings, in the shape of +diamonds, on the right side. + + +BINDING. + +Flannel is generally bound with sarsenet ribbon, or a kind of thin tape +called flannel binding. This is generally put on so as merely to shew +a little way over the edge on the right side, and should be neatly and +firmly hemmed down. On the other side, run the binding down with small +neat stitches, so as to look very tidy on the right side. Some people, +in binding flannel, turn half on the other side of the edge, but this +is not nearly so neat in appearance. + + +QUILTING. + +PLATE 1. FIG. 12, 13. + +Is generally employed for coverlets, silk shoes, cushions, linings of +work-baskets and boxes; also, for babies’ bonnets, hoods, &c. &c.; and +is well adapted to those purposes for which warmth and softness are +essential. + +It is done in the following manner. Lay a piece of flannel, demet, or +other soft substance, between the satin (or other material forming +the outside) and the lining of whatever you are going to make. Run it +firmly together, taking care that the stitches go through, not only the +satin, but the flannel and lining. The running is done in diamonds, +squares, octagons, or any other pattern with very small stitches, in +silk the same colour as the material. Coverlets are often quilted with +patterns of birds, fishes, stars, &c. &c. + +Another kind of quilting, which looks very neat, is done as follows. +Baste the piece of work in diamonds, with very long stitches of +thread, and then, with your needle, work a little star at each of the +intersections or points of the diamonds, putting in your needle between +the material and the lining, when the thread is ready to be carried +from one star to another, to conceal the stitches. + + +MAKING ROULEAUS. + +These are used for trimming dresses, capes, &c., and are made of satin, +silk, or velvet, in the following manner. Cut pieces of the material +crosswise, about one or more nails, and join a sufficient number of +them to form the length required; after which double the strip in two, +on the wrong side, and run along near the edge. When you have got to +the end, see that your needle is fastened firmly, with strong thread +to it, and turn your needle inside the roll, running it through as you +would a bodkin, and, on pulling it gently out, it will pull the rouleau +inside out, and make it look neat; after which, draw sufficient wool +through the rouleau to fill it. + + +CORONATION BRAID. + +This kind of braid is bought in knots, and resembles Fig. 10, Plate 1. +In putting it on frocks, it may be sewn in various patterns of leaves, +&c.: it looks pretty, and both wears and washes well. (See Plate 5, +Fig. 28, 29.) + + +CORD SEWN ON. + +This is often put on infants’ frock bodies, it looks neat and washes +remarkably well. It is sewn on in waves, diamonds, vandykes, or any +other pattern. The thread for sewing it on should be fine, and the +stitches very small. + + +CHAIN STITCH. + +PLATE 5. FIG. 21. + +It is a kind of ornamental work, which, as it is often used in frock +bodies for children, will be here explained; together with some other +fancy stitches, although they do not strictly come under the head of +plain work. + +Chain stitch is done as follows. Thread your needle with fine round +union cord, braid, or bobbin; tie a knot at the end of it, and draw the +cord through to the right side of your work. Let your cord hang loosely +in front, while you stick in your needle, as in the Plate, and bring +it out below, inclining it a little to the left, passing your needle +over your thread as you draw it out, so as to form a loop. Draw out +the needle, taking care not to pull the stitch tightly, and repeat the +same, putting the needle in a little higher, and to the right hand of +the place where it was last drawn out: thus each new loop begins within +the lower part of the preceding one, and you produce the effect of a +chain. + + +FANCY CHAIN STITCH. + +PLATE 5. FIG. 22. + +This is a very pretty stitch for ornamenting babies’ dresses, and +especially their hats, and should be worked in netting silk, silk +cord, or braid. The stitch resembles that of the common chain stitch +above mentioned, excepting that very little is taken up on the needle +at a time, and the stitches made far apart. The stitch may be varied +according to whether the needle slants little or much. If it is made to +lie quite horizontally before the work, it becomes button-hole stitch +at once. + + +CHAIN STITCH ON GATHERS. + +This has a remarkably neat effect, and if done with coloured worsted +upon Holland dresses, when biassed or gaged, it will wash and wear +well. Take up two gathers at a time for each stitch, always taking one +old, and one new gather on the needle at a time. + + +FANCY BOBBIN EDGING. + +PLATE 5. FIG. 18. + +This is pretty for the edges of frocks and robings, and is a very +simple stitch, which wears well. After hemming the edge, tie a knot at +the end of your bobbin, and draw it through to the right side of the +work, just below the hem. Carry the bobbin over the hem, by sticking +in your needle at the wrong side, bringing it through; after which, on +drawing the loop to the proper size, pass your bobbin through it, and +begin the next stitch, and so on, forming a succession of loops. + + +FANCY HERRING-BONING. + +PLATE 5. FIG. 23. + +This stitch resembles that of the common herring-bone, except that it +is worked perpendicularly instead of from left to right, and the thread +is brought round behind the needle, as represented in Plate 5, which +gives a greater finish to the stitch. + + +DOUBLE HERRING-BONING. + +PLATE 5. FIG. 27. + +This pattern is too intricate to describe, farther than by saying it is +a kind of double herring-bone on each side. The Plate gives a tolerably +accurate idea of the stitch. As great care is requisite to keep the +pattern even, it is better to run a tacking-thread, as a guide, down +the middle of it. + + +THE ANGULAR STITCH. + +PLATE 5. FIG. 24. + +This is a neat ornament for capes, cuffs, and the skirts of children’s +pelisses, and resembles the button-hole stitch, but is carried +angularly from right to left, to form the pattern. Care should be taken +to make the pattern of equal width and very even and straight, as much +of its merit depends upon its regularity. + + +THE SERPENTINE STITCH. + +PLATE 5. FIG. 25. + +This is a peculiarly pretty work, and much employed for children’s +dresses. It is worked with the hand, and sewn on to the material when +made. Take the cord, knot it so as to form a loop at one end, and pass +the other end through the loop towards the front, to form another loop +to the right hand; continue passing the bobbin first through the loop +on one side, and then through the loop on the other, directing the +cord so as to pass from the outer side of the work invariably towards +the inner, or that part next the work. The Plate will give a clearer +representation of this than can be easily done by words. + + +THE HORSE-SHOE STITCH. + +PLATE 5. FIG. 20. + +This stitch is worked from left to right, as seen in the Plate, and is +pretty when worked near to the edge of robings, hems, &c. The Plate +gives so clear a representation of the way to hold the needle and +thread, that no explanation is necessary. It is done with thick loosely +twisted cotton or bobbin. + + +FANCY BUTTON-HOLE STITCH. + +PLATE 5. FIG. 19. + +This is very pretty for the fronts of bodies, also for the bands +and shoulder-bits, and above the broad hems or tucks of frocks. It +resembles a very wide button-hole stitch. It washes and wears well. + + +CORAL PATTERN. + +PLATE 5. FIG. 26. + +This pattern is particularly suitable for the tops of broad hems, or +the waistbands of children’s frocks. It requires great accuracy in +the working; and if attempted by an inexperienced person, it would be +desirable to run lines, in long stitches, to determine the middle and +outer sides of the pattern. It can be best understood by reference to +the Plate, merely remarking that the stitch is begun on the left hand, +and continued alternately from left to right, always pointing the +needle towards the centre. + + +GENERAL RULES FOR COMPLETING WORK. + + + “The threaded steel + Flies swiftly, and unfelt the task proceeds.” + —COWPER. + +In making up dresses, all openings of pocket holes, of sleeves near +the wrist, &c. &c., should be very firmly fastened off, as they are +apt to tear. There are two or three modes of making them strong: one +is by working round the pail in button-hole stitch, and also by making +a bar from one side to the other, by passing the needle backwards and +forwards several times, working the button-hole stitch upon the bar; a +second is by sewing a piece of strong tape upon the hem, about an inch +on each side from the bottom; and a third way, which can only be done +when the pocket-hole is in a seam, is by making one side lap over the +other considerably, by which means the slit is not only strengthened, +but it does not gape open, which always has an untidy appearance. To +prevent dresses from opening at the slit below the band, it is a good +plan to extend the gathers, on one side, an inch beyond the band, by +joining a piece of strong tape to the end of it, and sewing the gathers +neatly upon it. This piece of tape must be contrived so as to hook or +button on to the band on the other side, so as to lap over the slit, +and thus prevent its opening. + +In fastening on tapes, sew firmly in close small stitches round the +three outer sides, and back-stitch across the fourth. + +In sewing on buttons, it is best to put the needle in and out, so as +to form a cross-stitch in the centre over and over again, till firmly +fastened. + +In sewing on the long tapes to the bands of petticoats, gowns, &c., it +is an excellent plan to make a large button-hole near one end, through +which the tape of the other end is passed, before brought to tie in +front. + +The gussets of sleeves, &c., are put in as follows. Take the piece +intended for the gusset and prove, by folding it crosswise, that it is +a perfect square; after which, it is the best and most durable plan +to hem it all round: next hem the two ends of the sleeve, and fix on +the gusset by sewing one end of the sleeve firmly to one side of the +gusset, and the other end of the sleeve to the next side of the gusset, +immediately round the corner. The easiest mode of ascertaining which +sides of the gusset are joined to the sleeve, is by folding the gusset +corner-wise, and the two sides that lie one above the other are sewn +to the two ends of the sleeve, and the other two sides, lying also one +above the other, form that part of the sleeve fastened to the body of +the dress. Sometimes the gusset is cut out much smaller than the ends +of the sleeve, especially for baby clothes, in which case the sides of +the gusset forming the part fastened to the skirt, ought to be still +placed so as to continue in a line with those sides of the sleeve sewn +on to the skirt. That part of the ends of the sleeve which is longer +than the gusset should be sewn together. + +Some sleeves are cut with the gussets in one length, so that it is +only necessary to turn up the one corner of the piece, like a half +handkerchief, so as to make it lie upon the side of the strip which is +folded just in half, and when the second end is sewn to that part which +meets it, the sleeve is formed, and only requires hemming at the bottom +to complete it, before putting it in. + +In setting a long sleeve, such as a shirt or night-gown sleeve, into a +wristband, let the slit be sufficiently long to admit of the wristband +being laid open and easily ironed. The gathers at the top of the sleeve +should be set into a space exactly the same as the wristband, to make +it lie flat also. These little attentions are a great assistance to the +washerwoman. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +A FEW OBSERVATIONS ON PURCHASING GOODS. + + + “Many have been ruined by buying good pennyworths.” + —POOR RICHARD. + +It is very bad economy to purchase, for articles of clothing, cheap +bargains. They generally consist of damaged goods, or are otherwise +inferior in their quality, as it stands to reason that no mercer would +feel inclined to sell his stock at a lower rate than its worth. + +The only parts of dress which it may be sometimes advisable to purchase +at a cheap rate, are gloves, ribbons, and such articles as are easily +soiled long before being worn out, and cannot well be cleaned: in large +towns and dirty neighbourhoods they are soon discoloured, and therefore +their durability is of little consequence. + +Linens, calicoes, woollens, prints, &c., should be carefully chosen +from the best, as they are in constant wash and wear, and would soon +become worn and threadbare if not good and strong. Two sets of good +linen will wear out three or four sets of inferior, which, when the +expense of making up is considered, becomes, in its turn, far more +expensive, besides the extra trouble and time, both of which are well +worth saving. + +Observe that the cloth is the proper width for the articles wanted, +so as to cut out to the best advantage. Much waste may arise from its +being one nail too wide or too narrow. Take notice that the selvages, +and also the threads, are even and good both ways. + + +CALICO. + +Observe that it is free from dress, which is a preparation of lime +employed by the manufacturers to make it of a better colour, as, if +(as is often the case) the dressing is too high in proportion to +the strength of the threads, it becomes rotten, tears, and wears +badly, and after washing, is poor and thin, like canvass; choose your +calico, therefore, undressed, for then you can more exactly judge of +its quality and strength. It should be soft, without specks, and the +threads and selvages even. It is often cheaper to buy the whole piece, +if much is wanted, as a small allowance is made per yard. If a small +quantity is wanted for a baby’s caps, shirts, &c., it is often good +economy to purchase remnants, fencings, or felts, by which means you +sometimes get the best qualities for very low prices. Calico runs of +various widths and qualities: the unbleached, or grey, is the best +for shifts, boys’ shirts, &c., for the lower orders, being warmer and +stronger than the white. + +The following are the useful widths, with the general prices at the +present time, though, of course, they are constantly varying. + +Unbleached calico, from 13 nails wide to 2 yards 4 nails, price from +4_d._ to 1_s._ 6_d._ + +Fine white calico for caps, aprons, &c., from 12 nails upwards to 1½ +yard, price from 4_d._ upwards. + +Stout calico, from 14 nails upwards to 3 yards wide, price from 8_d._ +to 3_s._ + + +LINEN. + +The Suffolk hemp is considered the best. The threads should be +particularly even. The useful widths are from 13¼ nails to 16, for +shirting. The common linen is sometimes as low as 8_d._ or 9½_d._ per +yard, and the best at 2_s._ 9_d._ or 3_s._ Linen should be scalded +before it is cut out and made up, as it is too stiff to allow of its +being sewn with ease. + + +LAWN. + +Lawn is merely a finer quality of linen, and is sometimes used for the +fronts of gentlemen’s shirts, also for babies’ night-caps, shirts, +frilling, &c. Its width varies from 13 nails upwards, and the price +from about 4_s._ to 8_s._ + + +CAMBRIC. + +Cambric is a finer sort of lawn. Its width is about three-quarters of a +yard, and the price from 4_s._ to 12_s._ + + +MUSLIN CHECKS. + +The small check which is used for caps generally wears the best. +Observe that the thin places between the checks are good, and the +threads even. They are generally 1¼ yard wide, and from 9_d._ to 20_d._ +or 2_s._ per yard. + + +BLUE CHECKS. + +This is very serviceable for aprons, and should be entirely linen, if +wanted to wear well. It runs from 1 yard wide to 1¼ yard, and is from +3_d._ to 16_d._ per yard. + +The cotton check answers very well for children’s pinbefores, though +not nearly so durable as the other. It is of various widths, and from +6_d._ to 1_s._ per yard. + + +PRINTS, CHINTZES, AND GINGHAMS. + +These often wash very badly: if, therefore, you are buying a doubtful +colour, it would be advisable to beg a piece as a pattern, and wash +half of it, which, when compared with the other half, will shew at once +whether the colours are fixed or not. They are better when the pattern +is the same on both sides. + +Dark and light blue, lilac, buff, bright brown, red, and pink are good +wearing colours. + +Green, chocolate, and violet are very fading colours. They vary in +price from 3_d._ to 10_d._, or even 1_s._ The usual width for gowns is +11 nails. The width sold for aprons is 14 nails. + + +FLANNELS. + +The Welsh is far superior to the Lancashire, and both washes and wears +better; the latter is, however, cheaper. It is generally of a yellowish +colour, while the Welsh is more of a blue grey. + +Purchasing large quantities at the fairs at Welsh-Pool, Newtown, and +other Welsh markets, is good economy, as several yards are often given +in to the hundred. The common flannels for petticoats are 9_d._ to +14_d._ per yard, and the finer upwards, to 2_s._ or 3_s._ 8_d._: they +vary in width from 9 nails to 16. New flannel should be plunged in +scalding water, and hung out to dry without wringing. + + +CLOTH. + +Cloth should be smooth, with a good nap. + + +STUFFS. + +Observe that they are evenly dyed, as they are often dashed. Hold them +up to the light, that you may better judge of their quality. The black +dye is apt to decay the stuff. Brown and dark green are particularly +good wearing colours. Width from ½ and ¾ yard, upwards. Price from +8_d._ to 2_s._ + + +CRAPE. + +Crape is often dashed and spotted, as it is a difficult article to take +dye evenly. Have it spread over white before buying it, when you can +more easily detect blemishes. The width is 1 yard, and the price 2_s._ +to 4_s._ 6_d._ + + +SATIN. + +It should be soft and thick, unless for trimming caps, when a poorer +kind may be used. When wanted for trimmings, satin should be cut +crosswise.—(See the end of Chapter III.) It is from ½ yard to 10 nails +wide, and from 2_s._ 6_d._ to 7_s._ 6_d._ + + +SILKS. + +Should not be too stiff, thin, or papery, as they are apt to tear or +slit in the plaits and folds. See that they are soft, without specks +or stains; and, as silk dresses turn well, and even dye afterwards, it +would be advisable to have no wrong side—that is, the pattern equally +good on both sides. They are generally ½ yard wide, though black silk +of 1 yard in width can be bought for aprons. + +In cheap silks, a kind of camel’s hair is frequently woven to make them +appear richer and thicker to the touch, but this is highly injurious to +the silk, as it causes it to wear very ill, and cut in all the folds +and creases. The way to detect the existence of camel hair in silks, +is to take a little bit in the hand and pull it gently cross-way, and +if there be any camel hair interwoven with the silk it will spring back +as if elastic, making a soft kind of whistling sound. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +GENERAL RULES FOR CUTTING OUT. + + + “Waste not, want not.” + “Cut your coat according to your cloth.” + +Articles of clothing are measured by cloth measure. + + 2¼ inches make 1 nail. + 4 nails — 1 quarter. + 4 quarters — 1 yard. + 5 — — 1 English ell. + 6 — — 1 French ell. + +All linens, calicoes, &c., to be washed before cut out. + +All linens, including lawn, cambric, and Holland, should be cut by the +thread. + +All calicoes, muslins, and flannels will tear, though the former, +unless very stout, pull a good deal awry. + +All small articles, as gussets, should be cut, in preference to being +torn. + +Cutting out whole sets of things together often prevents much waste; +hence it is better to cut out six or twelve shirts at once, than only +one at a time. + +Skirts, sleeves, wristbands, shoulder-straps, collars, waistbands, and +every thing liable to be stretched in wearing, to be cut selvage-wise. + +Frills, flounces, and pieces fulled between bands, are usually cut the +width way. + +Frills for caps are generally twice as long as the article they are to +be frilled upon; three times is very full, and is sometimes used for +neck frills. + +Linings of hats, bonnets, fronts, and backs of gowns, tippets, most +women’s collars, and every thing intended to set well and closely, of +an irregular shape or surface, to be cut crosswise. + +Pipings and linings to broad hems always to be cut crosswise. + +In cutting crosswise, first fold the end of the piece like a +half-handkerchief, so as to lay the raw edge evenly against the selvage +side, and cut off the half square, from which cut the strips for +piping, &c. + +To cut off a yard crosswise, measure a yard along each of the selvage +sides, (after the half square has been cut off) crease it slantingly +across, and cut it. + +Satins, velvets, and some silks, may be purchased cut the cross way, as +well as the straight. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE WORK-BOX. + + “Your thimble gone? Your scissors, where are they? + Your needles, pins, your thread, and tapes all lost. + Your housewife here, and there your work-bag tost.” + —POEMS. + + +The next thing which will come under our observation is the work-box, +or basket, and of this it may be useful to say a few words, as much of +the comfort of a good workwoman depends on the choice and arrangement +of her tools (if they may be so termed) and materials. + +A work-box, or basket, should be large enough to hold a moderate supply +of work and all its requisites, without being of such a size as to be +inconvenient to carry about, or lift with ease. There should be in it +divisions or partitions, as they assist in keeping it in order; but +some persons are apt to run into the extreme of over-partitioning their +boxes, which defeats its own purpose and becomes troublesome: this +should be carefully avoided. + +A work-box should contain six or eight of the useful sized white reel +sewing cottons, black cotton, and silks, white, black, and coloured, +both round and for darning; a few useful tapes, bobbin, galloon, +buttons of all kinds, including thread, pearl, metal, and black; also, +hooks and eyes. An ample needle-book, containing a page of kerseymere +for each sized needle, not omitting the darning, glove, stay, and +worsted or carpet needles. + +There are various kinds of scissors; the most useful are, + + A large pair, for cutting out linen; + A medium size, for common use; + A small pair with rounded points; + A smaller pair with sharper points, for cutting out muslin work, &c.; + Lace scissors with a flat knob at one of the points; + Button-hole scissors. + +A pincushion, an emery cushion, a waxen reel for strengthening thread, +a stiletto, bodkins, a thimble, a small knife, and a yard measure, made +like a carpenter’s foot rule, only with nails instead of inches marked +upon it: for a further description of it, see explanation to Plate 24. + +These complete the list of things necessary for a good workwoman; other +things, as shield, tweezers, which are often added, may be considered +as superfluities. + +It is a good plan to fit up a square basket for the use of each working +servant in the house, as for instance, the lady’s-maid, the nurse, the +housemaid, the laundry-maid. These baskets should vary sufficiently in +form and size to be easily distinguished one from the other; the kind +usually sold for babies’ baskets is the most convenient, being large +enough to hold plenty of work, and yet shallow, so as easily to search +for things at the bottom. + +To these baskets should belong, a small tin box for buttons, hooks and +eyes, bodkins, &c.; a large pair of scissors and sheath tied to each +other, and fastened by a long string to the handle of the basket. A +heavy pincushion, formed of a brick or piece of iron or lead, placed in +a bag full of bran, padded with flannel, and covered over with print +or calico. A large needle-book. A bag to contain tapes, silks, darning +cottons, &c. It is advisable to mark the scissors sheath, needle-book, +pincushion, bag, and even basket, with the initial of the maid by whom +it is used, as H. B. for housemaid’s basket. + +A rag bag is a desirable thing to have hung up in some conspicuous part +of the house, into which all odd bits, and even shreds, of calico, +print, linen, muslin, &c. should be put; as they are useful to come in +when a gusset or chin-stay, or other small article is wanting. Those +bits too small for this purpose may still be used by school children, +for practising stitches of needle-work upon; or, at all events, may be +disposed of to the rag merchants, and thus prove of some value at last. +Another family bag, for the purpose of containing stray tapes, or shoe +strings, hooks, eyes, odd buttons, pieces of silk, or bits of ribbon, +may be kept with advantage; especially where there is a large family of +children, whose demands for these small articles are daily and constant. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +ON BABY-LINEN, WITH SCALES FOR CLOTHES OF OLDER CHILDREN. + + + “The mother, wi’ her needle and her shears, + Gars auld claes look amaist as weel’s the new.” + —BURNS. + +The following articles are necessary to be prepared for an infant’s +first dress, and are equally applicable (with some exceptions) to +the poor as well as the rich, though the quality of the materials, +of course, must differ. The average number of each article usually +provided by ladies for an infant’s wardrobe, may here be introduced +with propriety, though they must vary according to circumstances. +Persons to whom economy is a great object may find a much smaller stock +answer as well, if they are able to send the linen often to the wash. + + + Shirts 12 to 18 Plate 2 Fig. 23 + Flannel bands 2-4 — 3 — 12 + Flannel caps 2-3 — 2 — 8 + Night-caps 6-12 — 2 — 4 + Day-caps 3-6 — 2 + Napkins (dozens of) 4-6 — 3 — 11 + Pilchers 4-6 — 3 — 10 + Pinafores 6-12 — 3 — 18 + Bedgowns 4-6 — 3 — 16 + First day-gowns 3-4 — 3 — 14 + Night-flannels 3-4 — 3 — 1, 2 + Day-flannels 3-4 — 3 — 3 + Flannel cloak 1-2 — 4 — 19, 24 + Flannel shawl 2-3 + Robes 4-6 — 4 — 2 to 8 + Petticoats 4-6 — 4 — 1 + Socks 4-8 + Hood 1 — 4 — 29 + Cloak or pelisse 1 — 4 — 20, 21, 23 + +Also, the following et ceteras:— + +One receiver; 1 basket-cover; 1 flannel, and 1 India rubber apron; 6 +nursery soft towels; 1 cradle, bassinette, or crib-cover, and bedding; +1 pincushion. + + +LENDING LINEN FOR THE POOR. + +Linen is often lent by ladies to the poor, at their confinements, in +bags, boxes, or baskets, containing the following articles:— + + +-------------------------------------+---------------+ + | WOMAN. | | + +-------------------------------------+---------------+ + | | Pl. Fig. | + | 2 shifts | 6 2 | + | 2 night jackets | 8 2 | + | 2 caps | 9 2 or 20 | + | 1 flannel petticoat | 8 9 | + | 1 flannel gown (or shawl) | 10 4 | + | 1 pair of sheets | | + | 1 roll of flannel, 4 breadths long,| | + | and ½ yard deep | | + +-------------------------------------+---------------+ + | BABY. | | + +-------------------------------------+---------------+ + | | Pl. Fig. | + | 3 shirts | 2 27 | + | 3 caps | 2 4 | + | 1 flannel cap | 2 8 | + | 1 flannel band | 3 12 | + | 3 night-gowns | 3 12 | + | 2 flannel gowns | 3 6 | + | 12 napkins | 3 4 | + | 2 soft towels | 3 11 | + +-------------------------------------+---------------+ + +Also, may be added, a baby’s crockery bottle, bed-pan, dust-bag, pair +of blankets, bottle of castor oil, sal volatile, with proper directions +pasted on, some large pins, strong thread, and a few books. + +The most convenient kind of basket for containing these articles of +clothing, is a light wicker-work one, about 20 inches long, 12 inches +wide, and 20 inches high. This size holds two folded sheets, side +by side, at the bottom, and all the rest above. It should have two +handles, sufficiently high to allow of the lid opening easily. (See +Plate 5, Fig. 14.) + + +A FEW GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. + +Baby-linen should be cut out with great exactness and precision, and +made up with the most scrupulous neatness. In all the patterns, an +eye should be had to their being contrived so as to put on with the +greatest comfort and ease to the infant, and made to button or tie +readily. No hard seams, buttons, or runners should come in contact with +their tender skin, therefore all strings should be made to tie on the +outside. + +To each head a scale is affixed, by which the same patterns may be +cut out of various sizes, in proper proportions, to suit children of +different ages. + +There are three lengths for the skirts of baby-linen; the first and +longest, for the rich, is generally 18 nails, and for the poor, 16; the +second size, commonly called three-quarters, is about 15 nails for the +rich, and 13 for the poor; the third size, or short coats, is about +half a yard. + +To prevent mistakes, observe, that on all occasions, the number of +nails marked on the Plate, refers to the size of the article when cut +out, and not when made up. + + +CAPS + +Are generally made of soft calico, or checked muslin, with muslin +frills, for the poor, and of fine lawn or cambric, with cambric frills +or lace borders for the higher classes. Babies’ caps, of whatever size +they may be, are generally cut so as to form a square when they are +doubled, after allowing for runners, &c. + + +FOUNDLING CAP. + +PLATE 2. FIG. 1, 2, 3, 4. + +SCALE. + + +-----------------------------------------------+------------------+ + | ———————— | Baby’s 1st size. | + +-----------------------------------------------+------------------+ + | | Yds. nls. in. | + | Width of calico, to cut to the best advantage | 16 .. 0 | + | Quantity required for twelve caps | 1 .. 2 .. 0 | + | Width of cap | 4 .. 0 | + | Length of cap down to the selvage | 6 .. 0 | + | Distance from the bottom to the slit behind | 1 .. 0 | + | Depth of slit into the cap | 1 .. 0 | + | Depth in front to be turned back | 1 .. 0 | + | Depth of frill | 1 | + | Length of frill | 1 .. 10 .. 0 | + +-----------------------------------------------+------------------+ + | ———————— | Child of 2 years.| + +-----------------------------------------------+------------------+ + | | | + | Width of calico, to cut to the best advantage | 13½ or 18 nls. | + +-----------------------------------------------+------------------+ + | Quantity required for twelve caps | 1 yd. 12 nls. | + | | 1 yd. 5 nls. | + +-----------------------------------------------+------------------+ + | Width of cap | 4½ nails | + | Length of cap down to the selvage | 7 do. | + | Distance from the bottom to the slit behind | 1¼ do. | + | Depth of slit into the cap | 1 do. | + | Depth in front to be turned back | 1 do. | + | Depth of frill | ½ do. | + | Length of frill | 2 yards | + +-----------------------------------------------+------------------+ + | ———————— | Child of 4 years.| + +-----------------------------------------------+------------------+ + | | Yds. nls. in. | + | Width of calico, to cut to the best advantage | 15 .. 0 | + | Quantity required for twelve caps | 2 .. 0 .. 0 | + | Width of cap | 5 .. 0 | + | Length of cap down to the selvage | 8 0 | + | Distance from the bottom to the slit behind | 1½ 0 | + | Depth of slit into the cap | 1 0 | + | Depth in front to be turned back | 1 0 | + | Depth of frill | ¾ 0 | + | Length of frill | 2 0 0 | + +-----------------------------------------------+------------------+ + + +BABY’S FIRST SIZE. + +Choose your calico soft and fine, of 12 or 16 nails wide, so as to +enable you to cut exactly three or four caps in the width, the depth of +the cap, from front to back, being 4 nails; the whole length, from ear +to ear, is 6 nails, which you must measure down the selvage-way of the +cloth (see Fig. 2). One yard and 2 nails will cut into twelve caps, if +the calico is 16 nails wide. + +When you have divided your calico into pieces for caps, cut them out as +follows:— + +Take one piece, and fold the edge backwards one nail down the long +side, and then, by doubling the cap in half the other way, it should +form a square (Fig. 1): the nail thus doubled back, (see Fig. 3, A +upon B), is to be hemmed down neatly, and a runner formed for a bobbin +(see Fig. 4, T). The corners, by the ears, are rounded off (see Fig. +4, S), and another runner formed all round the edge. (Observe, in all +the Plates the letter D denotes the folded, or doubled part of the +material.) The back is shaped by first measuring one nail from the +bottom (see Fig. 3, D D), and cutting into the cap one nail (Fig. 3, D +E), taking care to cut it very evenly by a thread: afterwards slope off +the crown, above the slit, in a semi-circular form (Fig. 3, E). + +The cap is made up by neatly felling and back-stitching the seam from +D to D, Fig. 3, and gathering the semi-circular part into the straight +piece, E D, and felling it over. A strip of calico is often neatly +sewn on the inside, over the gathers, to make them set softer to the +child’s head, and is called a back-stay. These strips, together with +the chin-stays, should be cut selvage-wise of the cloth. + +A chin-stay is three nails long, and half a nail wide, therefore cut +off three nails from down the selvage, and then divide from this piece +as many chin-stays as are wanted; afterwards cut the back-stays, which +are only two and a half nails long, and a quarter of a nail wide. The +chin-stay should be neatly sewn up the whole length, with a small +button-hole at one end; they are generally sewn on at the left corner +of the cap, and the button on the right. + +Some persons prefer having two buttons sewn on the cap, one at each +ear, and the stay made with two button-holes, so as easily to be +changed and washed, without changing the cap also, as babies are apt +to wet them, which makes them hard and rough to the chin. The frills +should be cut width-wise of the muslin; the strips should be one inch +wide. The length is generally determined by the width of the muslin, +and is from a breadth and a half to two breadths, so as to prevent +waste as much as possible. For a cap this size, about a yard and ten +nails length of frilling is sufficient. + +[Illustration: PLATE 2. + +Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 19 + +Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 20 Fig 21 + +Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 22 Fig 23 + +Fig 24 Fig 25 Fig 28 + +Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 26 Fig 27 Fig 29 + +Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 11 Fig 30 + +Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 16] + + +ANOTHER CHILD’S CAP. + +PLATE 2. FIG. 5, 6. + +SCALE FOR DIFFERENT SIZES. + + +-------------------------------------------------+---------------+ + | | | + | ———————— | First size. | + | | | + +-------------------------------------------------+---------------+ + | | Yds. nls. | + | Width of calico, to cut to the best advantage | 15 | + | Quantity of calico required to cut twelve caps | 1 2 | + | Width of cap | 3¾ | + | Length along the selvage | 6 | + | Distance from the bottom to the slit behind | 1 | + | Depth of the slit into the cap | 1 | + | Depth of frill | 1 | + +-------------------------------------------------+---------------+ + | | | + | ———————— |Child of 2 yrs.| + | | | + +-------------------------------------------------+---------------+ + | | Yds. nls. | + | Width of calico, to cut to the best advantage | 17 | + | Quantity of calico required to cut twelve caps | 1 5 | + | Width of cap | 4¾ | + | Length along the selvage | 7 | + | Distance from the bottom to the slit behind | 1¾ | + | Depth of the slit into the cap | 1 | + | Depth of frill | ½ | + +-------------------------------------------------+---------------+ + | | | + | ———————— |Child of 7 yrs.| + | | and upwards. | + +-------------------------------------------------+---------------+ + | | Yds. nls. | + | Width of calico, to cut to the best advantage | 14¼ | + | Quantity of calico required to cut twelve caps | 2 0 | + | Width of cap | 4¾ | + | Length along the selvage | 8 | + | Distance from the bottom to the slit behind | 1½ | + | Depth of the slit into the cap | 1 | + | Depth of frill | ¾ | + +-------------------------------------------------+---------------+ + + +INFANT’S FIRST SIZE. + +This sort will answer for either day or night-cap, and, when nicely +made, looks neat and pretty. The calico should, if possible, be 15 +nails wide, to allow of exactly four caps being cut in the width, to +prevent waste, as these caps are to be 3¾ nails wide: should any waste +arise, it will, however, come in for chin-stays, &c. The cap is 6 nails +long. Double the piece in half, and it will form a square, by allowing +the ¾ of a nail for the runners in front. Measure one nail behind from +the bottom, S S, and slit into the cap one nail, S P. Slope off the +crown in a semi-circular form, P Q. + +In making up the cap, make three or four runners at regular intervals, +Z Z, and a neat hem all round, to admit of bobbins. The semi-circular +part, P Q, is gathered into the straight part, P S, and neatly felled +over, the seam, S S, being previously sewn up. Hem the back-stay inside +the gathers, and put on the chin-stay and frill. + + +CHILD’S FLANNEL CAP. + +PLATE 2. FIG. 7, 8. + + +SCALE FOR DIFFERENT SIZES. + + +------------------------------------------+------+------+------+ + | | |Child |Child | + | ———————— |First | of | of | + | |size. |3 yrs.|6 yrs.| + +------------------------------------------+------+------+------+ + | |Nails.|Nails.|Nails.| + |Width of cap, cut in width of cloth | 3 | 3½ | 4 | + |Length cut down the selvage | 7 | 8 | 9 | + |Distance at the bottom to the slit behind | 1¼ | 1½ | 1¾ | + |Length of slit | 1 | 1¼ | 1½ | + +------------------------------------------+------+------+------+ + + +INFANT’S FIRST SIZE. + +These caps are of use after washing an infant’s head, to prevent its +taking cold, till its hair is sufficiently dry to put on its usual cap. +Choose very soft fine Welsh flannel, of 15 nails wide, so as to cut +five caps in the width, of 3 nails each. Let them be 7 nails long, so +as to come well over the ears, and admit of shrinking in washing. Fold +the pieces in half, measure at the back 1¼ nails from the bottom, S T, +and slit into the cap, T A. Slope off the crown from C to D. In making +them up, they should be neatly hemmed, and the hem run at the edge +with very fine thread, to make it lie flat, or else herring-boned with +very small stitches. Ladies generally have these caps bound with white +sarsenet ribbon (see explanation of binding, page 7). The back ought +to be herring-boned with very small regular stitches, and the circular +part, C D, plaited and herring-boned into the straight part, A T, and a +piece of fine calico or sarsenet ribbon hemmed inside, over the plaits. +Two runners, or string cases (Fig. 8, F G), are then made by hemming +neatly two bits of soft tape or sarsenet inside, at proper distances. +The one marked G not to be carried lower down on each side than H, +which is nearly opposite the slit at the back. All the tapes are tied +outside, and the tape-holes neatly worked round in button-hole stitch. +Two tapes for strings. + + +INFANT’S DAY-CAP. + +PLATE 2. FIG. 9, 10, 11. + +No scale necessary, as this shape is generally worn only by infants. + + +INFANT’S FIRST SIZE. + +This shape is the most suitable for a day-cap for the higher classes, +and is generally made of worked cambric or spotted lace. The cap is +8 nails long, to be cut down the selvage, and 2½ nails wide; your +material would, therefore, cut to the best advantage if 15 nails wide, +to admit of six caps being cut in the width. The crown or circular +piece is 1 nail across when hemmed, therefore, cut it as much larger as +will allow for the turning down. + +It is finished as follows: make the runners and hem in front very small +and firm, either at regular distances from each other, or otherwise, +according to fancy. Sew up the back, H, and make a small neat hem +at the bottom, J K, to admit another bobbin; afterwards, whip the +top, L M, having previously with pins divided it into quarters. Hem +the circular piece and crease it into four also, and gather the cap +into the crown, drawing the whipping evenly, and making each quarter +correspond. + +Fig. 11 is the same shape, but more ornamented, having a worked crown, +and made of spotted cambric. These caps look very pretty with a white +or delicate blue or pink satin or silk inner cap, to set off the work. +A piece of insertion-work is also put between the runners in front, +which adds to the lightness of their appearance. + + +PLATE 2. FIG. 12, 13. + +This is much used by the poor, and is easily made and as easily washed. +Take of the material a piece 6 nails down the selvage, and 3½ nails +wide. Double it, letting D be the doubled part. Sew up the back from A +to C, leaving a small hole or button-hole at the top, C; make a runner +all round the front and behind, at half a nail’s distance from the +edge, which is hemmed with a very narrow hem to form a frill: also, lay +in a runner from E to F; next, sew a bobbin at B, letting one end of +the string hang outside, and the other, being pulled through the seam, +remains inside the cap. This end is carried up and brought out through +the hole at C (see the dotted line in the Plate which represents the +top inside); when worn, the tapes, on being tied together at B, draw +up the cap into shape, and if neatly arranged and pulled out with the +fingers, it looks very neat and pretty. (See Fig. 13.) Some put a loop +of bobbin inside at B, which, on being brought out through C, fastens +to a button at B, on the outside. + + +THE FULL FRENCH CAP. + +PLATE 2. FIG. 14, 15, 16. + +This is exceedingly pretty, but is rather troublesome to get up at the +wash, and sometimes requires unpicking to be neatly done. + +Take a piece of cambric 10 nails wide width-way, and 1¼ deep +selvage-wise (see Fig. 15). Take another piece, 6 nails long +selvage-wise and 1¼ wide (see Fig. 16). The latter piece is that part +in which runners are made to admit of bobbins. + +A crown of 1 nail across is then cut, to which the long strip (Fig. 15) +is evenly fulled all round with a piece of lace or edging let in all +round. The other side is fulled to the front of the cap, and the border +being put on, the whole is completed. + + +CHILD’S HORSE-SHOE CAP. + +PLATE 2. FIG. 17, 18, 19. + + +SCALE FOR DIFFERENT SIZES. + + +------------------------------------------+--------+------------+ + | | First | Second | + | ———————— | size. | size. | + +------------------------------------------+--------+------------+ + | | Nails. | Yds. nls. | + |Proper width of material to cut | | | + | to best advantage | 15 | 12 | + |How much wanted for twelve caps | 14 | 1 12½ | + |Length of cap down the selvage | 6 | 8 | + |Depth of cap cut in the width of material | 2½ | 3 | + |Quantity sloped off at M | ½ | ½ | + |Length of horse-shoe crown | 2 | 2¼ | + |Width of ditto | 1¼ | 1½ | + |At what distance from the top begin | ½ | ¾ | + | to slope off | ½ | ¾ | + |To how much at the bottom, when doubled | | | + | it is to be sloped off | ¼ | ½ | + +------------------------------------------+--------+------------+ + +EXPLANATION OF THE FIRST SIZE. + +This is commonly called the horse-shoe cap, from the resemblance of the +crown in shape to a horse-shoe. The length of the cap down the selvage +is 6 nails, and the width 2½ nails. Double it, (see Fig. 18, D being +the double part,) and slope at the top of the front, L, to the back, +M. The distance from M to O is 2 nails, therefore, half a nail is thus +sloped off. For the horse-shoe or crown (Fig. 17), cut a piece 2 nails +long and 1¼ wide; fold it length-wise in half, and half a nail from the +top, begin to round off the corner towards C, to form the horse-shoe; +then measure off at the bottom of the piece, while still doubled, a +quarter of a nail, which cut off from A to B, curving it a little to +give it a prettier shape. The cap is made up with two or three runners +in front: the head-piece is put into the crown, the gathers to be +rather fulled at B (Fig. 19), and nearly, if not quite, plain from D to +D. The frilling is one inch deep. + + +INFANT’S FRENCH CAP. + +PLATE 2. FIG. 20, 21. + + +FIRST SIZE. + +This shape is only used for infants, therefore, a scale is unnecessary. +It is very pretty, though but little worn, and never used for the poor. + +The cap is 8 nails long down the selvage, and 2¾ wide. After doubling +it in half, fold it again from A to A, and then from A to B; shape a +quarter of a nail off the corners, in a semi-circular form. In the +front, D, measure 3 nails, and cut off the 1 nail, taking care to cut +by the thread, in an upright direction, for the distance of 1 nail, (P +G,) and then slope it off in a corner, to half a nail below the top. +In making it up, sew up the back neatly, and full the cap very equally +into the crown, which must be one nail across, when hemmed. Three or +more runners in front, and double frills, complete the cap. + +Ribbon chin-strings to draw through loops on each side, on account of +washing. + + +COCKADES, ROSETTES, &c. + +A few words on the rosettes and bows usually put on children’s caps, +hats, and bonnets, may not be unacceptable. + +There are several kinds of these bows, of which the following are the +principal. + +A cockade for an infant boy’s cap or hat. This is made of narrow white +satin ribbon, sewn on a small circle of buckram, which should be about +the size of half-a-crown. Begin at the outer edge of the buckram, and +sew the ribbon on in small loops or bows, round and round, until you +fill it quite up to the centre. + +Lace cockade for a boy. This is often made of some costly kind of +lace, generally Valenciennes, and requires four yards. It should be +whipped at the edge, and sewn on to a piece of buckram or stiff muslin, +beginning at the outer edge of it. + +When intended for a girl, it is called a rosette, and instead of being +round, it is an oval or long shape, and looks like several frillings of +lace sewn together, perhaps 1½ nail long. It is made in the same way as +the cockade. + +A pretty and less expensive lace cockade or rosette, may be made by +sewing edging on each side of a broad piece of net, gathering the net +in the middle and running it upon a buckram circle or oval beginning in +the centre of it and working to the edge, making the lace stand as full +and close as possible. + +Infants’ hats and bonnets have pretty trimmings of satin cut the cross +way, and about 1½ or 2 nails broad, on a buckram foundation, either +round for a cockade, or oval for a rosette; they are merely gathered +at one edge, and sewn on the buckram, as described above, beginning in +the centre. Being cut the cross way prevents the outer edge roving out +easily. + +A simple little bow for a bonnet, or to fasten the neck of a dress +or pelisse, may be made as follows. Cut off a piece of ribbon 2½ +nails long, and plait or gather it up in the middle; this is for the +ends: take another piece 3½ or nearly 4 nails long, gather it up in +the centre, and turn the two ends of it underneath, to the middle, +gathering them up also, thus forming two bows; lay these bows upon +the first piece, and sew them together in the centre, with strong +thread: to conceal the gathering, fold a small piece of the ribbon very +narrow, and tie or sew it round the middle of the bow, as if to hold it +together; this finishes it neatly. + + +INFANTS’ OPEN SHIRTS. + +PLATE 2. FIG. 22, 23, 24, 25, 26. + +Infants’ shirts are generally made of soft calico for the poor, and +very fine lawn or cambric, for the higher classes. + +SCALE. + + +-------------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+ + | ———————— |Small size.|Large size.| + +-------------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+ + | | Yds. nls. |Yds. nls. | + |Width of material, to cut out | | | + | to best advantage | 15 | 16½ | + |Quantity requisite for twenty-four shirts | 5 13 | 6 10 | + |Depth of shirt to be cut in the width | 5 | 5½ | + |Length of shirt to be cut down the selvage | 10 | 11 | + |Length of sleeve to be cut down the selvage| 1¼ | 1½ | + |Width of sleeve | 2½ | 3 | + |Gusset | bare nail.| full nail.| + |Slit down for the arm-hole | 1½ | 1⅔ | + |Space for shoulder | ¾ | ¾ | + |Slit for flaps | full nail.| full nail.| + +-------------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+ + +Either of the above sizes is very good for babies’ first shirts. The +small size fits the best for the first five or six weeks after the +infant’s birth, but with a large baby would soon be too small; the +second size, therefore, though rather too large to begin with, is +eventually the most useful. As it is advisable to avoid waste as much +as possible, the width of the material would best determine the size, +taking care, however, that it does not exceed the one, or be smaller +than the other of the above scales. + +In cutting out 24 shirts (see Plate 2, Fig. 22), cut eight lengths of +10 nails for the skirts (see A), eight lengths of 1¼ nails for sleeves +(see B), and three lengths of 1 nail (see C) for gussets. + +In cutting out the first size, choose your calico of exactly 15 nails, +to admit of three shirts being cut in the width, of 5 nails long each. +The width of the shirt down the selvage is 10 nails. Fold the shirt in +half, and then double it again, so as to fold it in quarters (Fig. 27), +cut a slit down the two doubled parts in front for the arm-holes (see +O Q); take care that you do not cut your arm-holes at the wrong end of +the doubled part, they should be slit at the end where there are two +folded parts to slit down: make them 1½ nails deep, then leave a full +three-quarters of a nail for the shoulder (see O B), and slit down a +full nail to form the bosom and back flaps (see B D). The sleeves are +1¼ nails long, to be cut down the selvage, and 2½ nails wide, so that +three pairs will cut exactly in the width of the calico, if 15 nails +wide. + +The gussets are a bare nail square; about eight pairs will cut in the +width. Fig. 26 is the appearance of the skirt after being cut out, when +half opened, so as to be doubled once. In making a shirt, hem it neatly +with a very narrow hem, unless there is a selvage at the bottom: hem, +also, the two sides and the flaps, taking care to do the last properly, +so as when falling over, to lie the right side outwards. Two narrow +tape strings are sewn to the corners of the middle flap, 7 nails long. +The shoulders are sewn and felled with very narrow seams; the gussets +are then sewn on the sleeves, which are very neatly hemmed. The sleeve +is set into the shirt, and fulled at the top in neat and very small +gathers. All the seams should lie particularly flat, and be as narrow +as you can make them. + + +INFANT’S SECOND OR CLOSE SHIRT. + +PLATE 2. FIG. 27, 28, 29, 30. + +When infants are about nine months old, they generally leave off using +the open or first shirt, and begin to wear the close shirt (Fig. 30) +until they reach the age of seven or eight years, when the usual shaped +shirt or shift is worn. + +SCALE FOR DIFFERENT SIZES. + + +----------------------------------------------+---------+--------+ + | |Child of |Child of| + | ———————— |8 months.| 2 yrs. | + +----------------------------------------------+---------+--------+ + | | Nails. | Nails. | + |Width of material | 14 | 15 | + |Full breadth of shirt to be cut in width | 14 | 15 | + |Length of shirt to be cut down the selvage | 4 | 5½ | + |Length or depth of sleeve cut down the selvage| 1 | 1 | + |Width of sleeve | 3 | 3 | + |Gusset | 1 | 1 | + |Slit down the arm-hole | 1¾ | 2 | + |Space for shoulder | 1½ | 1½ | + |Slit for flaps | 1½ | 1½ | + |Slit for tail | 1 | 1¼ | + +----------------------------------------------+---------+--------+ + +----------------------------------------------+--------+----------+ + | |Child of|Child of | + | ———————— | 5 yrs. |7 or 9 yrs| + +----------------------------------------------+--------+----------+ + | | Nails. | Nails. | + |Width of material | 16 | 18 | + |Full breadth of shirt to be cut in width | 16 | 18 | + |Length of shirt to be cut down the selvage | 7 | 9 or 10 | + |Length or depth of sleeve cut down the selvage| 1½ | 2 | + |Width of sleeve | 3 | 3½ | + |Gusset | 1¼ | 2 | + |Slit down the arm-hole | 2¼ | 3 | + |Space for shoulder | 1¾ | 2 | + |Slit for flaps | 1½ | 2 | + |Slit for tail | 1½ | 2 | + +----------------------------------------------+--------+----------+ + + +EXPLANATION OF THE FIRST SIZE. + +Choose your lawn or calico 14 nails wide, if possible, to admit exactly +of one shirt in the width. Cut 4 nails down the selvage-way for the +length of the shirt. + +Fold the piece in half, which will make it 7 nails wide when thus +doubled, make a slit down the doubled part of 1¾ nails deep for the +arm-hole, and put a pin in the two selvages to mark the depth of +the other arm-hole. Fold the shirt once more, so as to lay the two +arm-holes one upon the other, (see Fig. 27), and, at the top, from O +to Q, measure 1½ nails for the shoulder, and slit 1½ nails, making the +slit B D slope outwards towards the sleeve, about half a nail out of +the straight line, as bosom flaps shaped thus, set much better to the +figure, and also that part of the shoulder (Fig. 30, P) can be turned +over, and confines all straps, tapes, &c. neatly, so as to prevent +their being seen from under the frock sleeve. + +The sleeve usually put in is 1 nail deep, to be cut down the selvage, +and 3 nails wide. The sleeve-gusset a full nail square, and the skirt +gusset half a nail square. (See Fig. 24.) + +The shirt is made up as follows (see Fig. 30). Sew the two selvages +together (see R) with fine strong thread, leaving 1¾ nails above for +the arm-hole, S, and 1 nail below for the opening, or tail of the +shirt, U. The corresponding side, H, is double, so that the slit for +the arm-hole and for the tail have to be cut. Hem the bottom of the +skirt and up the tails, after putting in the gussets (or tail bits +as they are generally called). Some people think these tail gussets +unnecessary for young children; but they add so much to the strength of +the shirt, and give so little extra trouble, that they are well worth +the pains. Sew and fell the shoulders with flat narrow seams, hem the +bosom flaps, taking care to turn down your hems so as to be the right +side outwards, where the flap falls over. Set in your sleeves quite +plain, till nearly the top of the shoulder, and full in the remainder, +in very small neat gathers. Two tape strings are sewn at the corners of +the front bosom flaps. + +Fig. 25 is another pattern of a sleeve which is very neat when worn, +as it is never seen below the frock sleeve; but it has a less finished +appearance than the other. This last shape, however, is preferable +for children from four to six years of age, from its strength and +simplicity, and is made as follows:—Cut a piece of calico two nails +square, which fold and cut in half, corner-wise (see Fig. 29); fold +this half square again, and the double part, D, falls under the arm, +E is set into the shirt, and H is hemmed neatly for the arm to go +through. The great advantage of this shape is, that the shift sleeve is +never seen from beneath the child’s frock, and therefore always sets +neatly (see Fig. 30, the sleeve to the right). + +[Illustration: Plate 3. + +Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4 + +Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 7 + +Fig 8 Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 11 + +Fig 12 Fig 13 + +Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 17 + +Fig 18 Fig 19 Fig 20 Fig 21 Fig 22] + + +INFANTS’ FIRST FLANNEL GOWNS. + +PLATE 3. FIG. 1, 2. + +This is an excellent pattern for an infant’s first gown, either day or +night, from the ease with which it is put on, and also for the warmth +and support it gives to the child. The body is made of flannel, lined +with very fine soft calico or lawn. + +In cutting out the skirt, tear off two breadths of the proper length. +The long clothes of babies of the higher classes are longer than those +of the poor, as the latter would soon be tumbled and dirty, they should +be 13 or 14 nails, and for the former, about one yard is ample. Some +ladies dress their children in very long flannels and robes, but this +is as unnecessary as it is ill-judged; for the weight of the long +petticoats must be painful, besides the perfect inability of the poor +infant to stretch and kick about its little limbs, is obvious. + +Divide one of these breadths in two, and pin a half-breadth to +each side of the whole breadth. Run firmly down the two seams, and +herring-bone them back again, and then bind with the flannel binding +neatly down the two sides of the front, and at the bottom of the skirt. +The body is 12 nails long to be cut down the selvage, and 2 nails wide. +About seven bodies can be cut in the width, flannel being generally 14 +nails wide. Double the piece for the body length-wise, and stick in a +pin 1½ nail from the front or doubled part (see A B) to mark where the +beginning of the arm-hole lies. The arm-hole is 1¼ nail across, and ¾ +nail deep; after cutting it out, slope the remainder of the body from +H to K in a straight line, to within a ¼ nail from the bottom at the +end, so as not to finish off in a point. A large opening, or sort of +button-hole is next made under the left arm-hole, to be ¾ nail long, +leaving about ¼ nail above and below it. It is thus made up: place +the soft lining upon the flannel, taking care that the wrong side is +outwards, and run them firmly together, pretty near the edge, along +the two sides, the top of the body, and round the arm-holes; after +which, finish your thread firmly off, turn the body inside out, and +stroke the lining and flannel smoothly together, by putting your hand +inside and pressing it gently all round. Next put the skirt into the +body; measure the middle of each and pin them together; afterwards, pin +the front or opening of the skirt at M, exactly half way between the +arm-hole and the end of the body (see O P). The skirt from M to O to be +set in plain, and then the remainder plaited up in about twelve small +equal plaits to the middle, taking care to turn the plaits so as to lie +outwards from the centre towards the point; the other half is then to +be fixed in, and with a strong thread, stitch the plaits to the flannel +body, laying the two rough edges together. When done, smooth down the +stitched part, and hem the calico lining to it. + +The body should next be run neatly and firmly with very small stitches +all round, about ¼ inch from the edge. In the part from P to M, the +lining should be made so as to be a little seen on the outside, and +be hemmed down to represent flannel binding. The lawn or calico +shoulder-straps should be cut 1¾ nail long, and a button-hole worked at +one end, while the other is sewn on that end of the arm-hole towards +the middle. The slit or button-hole should be turned over neatly by the +lining, to appear as if bound all round. Two narrow tapes of 4 nails +long, sewn to the points, complete the whole. In dressing the infant, +the one end is drawn round through the slit, which makes it fit closely +and compactly to the figure, and yet be soft and elastic. Fig. 2 is the +representation of one folded as if on. + + +ANOTHER SHAPE FOR AN INFANT’S FIRST FLANNEL NIGHT-GOWN. + +PLATE 3. FIG. 5, 6, 7. + +This is a very good kind also, and the one in most general use, though +not equal to the one just described. It takes a breadth and a half to +make this petticoat, therefore it prevents waste if you cut out two at +once. + +Cut your two breadths 14 nails long, or a yard, according to pleasure, +and measure along the width of one breadth (Fig. 5) 3½ nails from the +selvage (see A B), and put in a pin as a mark. Measure the same at the +other end of the width of the flannel, making your measurement from the +opposite selvage (see C D); then double your flannel smoothly across +from B to D, and cut it evenly along the sloping line. + +The other breadth of flannel is torn exactly down the middle. Take one +of these halves, and let one of the above mentioned sloped pieces be +pinned on each side of it, taking care to place them with the sloped +part outwards (see Fig. 6, E E), and the smaller part of each sloped +piece be at the top. After running and herring-boning the two seams, P +P, you must cut out the top part of the skirt to form the body. First, +therefore, double the skirt very evenly in half, and beginning at the +end which is open, leave 3½ nails for the back, L L, and place a pin as +a mark; and also in order that the flannel, when once laid correctly, +may not slip out of its place. Measure 1½ nail for the arm-hole, +which you must also pin; then cut it out to the depth of ½ nail, L +O N, measure 1½ nail beyond for the bosom, N X, and then cut down 1 +nail deep, in a straight line, X Y; after which, cut off the flannel +in a straight line, Y W, to the end. The gown, when opened, has the +appearance of Fig. 6, with a large piece cut out of the bosom in the +middle. The two sides of this gap in the bosom should be very firmly +run together about one inch from the edges; these edges then should be +laid open, so as to turn back, one on the one side, and the other on +the other, and very neatly herring-boned down; it will thus have the +appearance of two hems (see Z Z, Fig. 7). The skirt, which of course is +very full, must be set into two equal double plaits, and herring-boned +upon the body in the inside. The skirt at the sides must next be +set in two or three plaits (see F G, Fig. 7), so that, when plaited +up, the space from the arm-hole to the back be but 1½ nail. Bind or +herring-bone the top of the bosom, and make a string-case of soft tape +at the top of the back. Put in the tapes, sew on shoulder straps of +soft calico or tape, with button-holes, and put on the buttons at the +end of the arm-hole, towards the back. + + +ANOTHER INFANT’S FLANNEL GOWN. + +PLATE 3. FIG. 4. + +This shape is the one generally used by the lower classes, not only +for flannels, but for print gowns and petticoats; and is preferred +to others on account of the ease with which it is cut out, and also +because there is much less needle-work in the making up: there is, +however, some waste, which is an objection. The gown is 13 nails long, +but as there should be no seam on the shoulder, the two breadths must +be cut in one length of 26 nails, which is 1 yard 10 nails. Double it +in two, so as to be 13 nails long, and then fold it in half very evenly +down the middle, so as to make the four selvages lie exactly one upon +the other, and pin them firmly down to keep the folds in place; then, +after measuring 3 nails from the selvages at the top (see A S), to +determine the length of the sleeves, cut out the part S C D, to form +the neck of the gown. Observe that the part from S to C is a nail deep, +which should be nicely rounded off, and from C to D, the bosom is cut +straight along. + +The gown is next shaped at the side; and to do so properly, put in a +pin at S, and fold it in a regular slope down to the bottom of the +gown. Measure down the slope from the top, S, the distance of 2 nails, +and put in a pin as a guide; cut off from the bottom upwards to T, +and rounding it off at the corner, slope along T K for the sleeve, +allowing 1½ nail width for the wrist. In making it up, the seams should +be joined with a mantua-maker’s hem, and a band should be sewn on +the inside of the front, to be 6 nails in length, and about 1½ nail +below the neck. Cut a button-hole in the gown at each end of the band, +draw with a bodkin a piece of tape through one hole, and fasten it +down at the other extremity of the band; do the same with the other +button-hole, so that on pulling the tapes, the gown will be drawn up, +and neatly fulled in front. + + +INFANT’S SECOND SIZE NIGHT-FLANNEL. + +PLATE 3. FIG. 3. + +This shape is used when infants are six or eight months old, and is +merely a double flannel body sewn upon the skirt, which is two breadths +of 12 nails in length. + +The body is 11 nails long, to be cut down the selvage, and 2½ nails +deep when doubled; therefore cut it 5 nails wide, and double it down +all the length very carefully. You must pin or tack it together evenly, +to enable you to cut out the arm-holes correctly. Then fold the body +in two, measure from the end two nails for the back, A, and cut out +the arm-hole 1 nail deep, and 1½ nail across. Open the body again, +unpick the tacking-threads, and run round the arm-holes with small +firm stitches on the wrong side of the flannel, also up the sides; +after which, turn the body inside out, and then make a large plait +in front as a support to the child; this plait ought to be so large, +that when made, only 2¾ nails will remain between the arm-holes, +instead of 4 nails. After herring-boning this plait neatly down, run +in small stitches all round the body (see the dotted line) at about a +¼ of an inch from the edge, to make the flannel lie flat, and give it +a finished appearance. Some people back-stitch it, and others prefer +making a line of very small herring-bone, or else chain-stitch it all +round. These last two modes are certainly more ornamental, but the +simple running is quite as neat, and saves much time; three tapes must +be sewn on one end of the body, at equal distances from each other, and +at scarcely a nail from the edge; the three tapes at the other end to +be sewn on close to the edge, and to correspond with the others, so as +to tie neatly with each other, and to allow of the body lapping over +nearly a nail. The shoulder straps of tape are sewn on, and are 2 nails +long, after allowing an extra half nail for turning in. + +The skirt is sewn up, and not open as the others; the bottom is neatly +bound, the pocket-hole is torn down the middle of one of the breadths, +and is two nails long; it must also be bound all round. The skirt is +set into the body in small plaits. + + +INFANT’S FIRST SIZE DAY FLANNEL. + +PLATE 3. FIG. 8. + + +SCALE OF DIFFERENT SIZES. + + +-------------------------------+-------+-------+--------+--------+ + | |Infant.| Child |Child of|Child of| + | ———————— | | of 6 | 2 or 3 | 4 or 6 | + | | |months.| yrs. | yrs. | + +-------------------------------+-------+-------+--------+--------+ + | | Nails.| Nails.| Nails. | Nails. | + |Length of skirt | 16 | 12 | 5 | 6 | + |Length of body down the selvage| 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | + |Depth of body | 1¼ | 1½ | 2 | 3 | + |Space across the arm-hole | 1 | 1¼ | 1½ | 2 | + |Depth of arm-hole | ¾ | 1 | 1¼ | 1½ | + +-------------------------------+-------+-------+--------+--------+ + | ⁂ The space for the bosom and back is ascertained by dividing | + | the body in four, and cutting out the arm-holes according to | + | the Scale. | + +-----------------------------------------------------------------+ + +The body is made of fine jean or twill, lined with lawn; or, if for the +lower classes, of soft coarse calico, with plenty of nap upon it. The +body is 8 nails long, to be cut down the selvage, and 1¼ deep, so that +twelve bodies could be exactly cut in the width, if your stuff were 15 +nails wide. + +Fold the body in two, and, after measuring 1½ nail from the edge, cut +out the arm-holes, which are 1 nail across, and ¾ nail deep. Slope off, +both at the top of the back and at the bosom, about a ¾ of an inch, +to make it set better. The lining is next cut out, and both are run +neatly together, the wrong side outwards, near the edges, along the +sides and top, and round the arm-holes: when done, turn the body inside +outwards, and flatten it between your finger and thumb, so as to make +it lie flat. Afterwards back-stitch it, in beautifully even stitches, +all round the top and sides, at a little distance from the edge. Sew +on the shoulder-straps and tapes, putting three on each side; those on +one side to be set close to the edge, and the other three at about half +a nail’s distance from it. The skirt is about 14 nails or a yard long: +the two breadths are sewn together, and the pocket-hole torn in the +middle of the back breadth about 2 nails. The bottom is bound, as also +the pocket-hole, and the skirt set in the body in regular small plaits +at the sides, leaving it plain in the middle for about 2 nails. + + +ANOTHER CHILD’S DAY FLANNEL. + +PLATE 3. FIG. 13. + +This pattern is intended for children of six to ten years, previous +to their wearing stays. The body is made of fine jean, and lined with +calico; pieces of cord or bobbin are placed between the two in rows, +and fastened in by the needle, running the body and lining together +between each two rows. Rows of cord may be thus run in various +patterns, and, if neatly done, look very pretty. + +The Plate is a sufficient guide for cutting out the body, without +further description. The skirt should be set in plaits in the middle, +and towards the ends. The shoulder-straps should also be of jean. + + +INFANT’S FLANNEL BAND. + +PLATE 3. FIG. 12. + +Infants require great warmth and support round the stomach and hips, +and for that purpose, wear flannel bands for the first ten or twelve +months. + +Cut the flannel down the selvage 14 nails long, and 2½ nails wide. +It should be exactly 15 nails in width, to enable you to cut out six +without waste. + +Herring-bone very neatly the top and bottom, and herring-bone a deep +hem of ½ a nail (see A) at one end, and a narrow one (see D) at the +other; then make two large plaits in the middle, to reduce the length +to 11 nails (see B C). These plaits will be about half a nail deep, and +should fall one on each side of the middle, and be herring-boned down. +The three strings on each side to be sewn as seen in the Plate; those +of the one side to be put at 3 nails from the end. + + +INFANTS’ FLANNEL PILCHERS OR SAVERS. + +PLATE 3. FIG. 9, 10. + +Infants often wear pilchers or savers, put over their napkins, to +prevent their clothes from being wetted. They are made as follows:— + +Cut a piece of flannel 11 nails square, fold it in half, and cut it +crosswise, A B: it will make two pilchers. It must next be rounded +off a little at the two corners, A B, and at the third corner, E, +(which, observe, is opposite the cross-way of the flannel,) sew on a +piece of calico, in which cut a button-hole. The crossed part, A B, +is then neatly plaited into a calico band, 1 nail deep, when doubled, +and 8 nails long, and a button and button-hole sewn on at the ends. In +putting it on, first button the band round the waist in front, bring +the corner between the legs, and button it to the same button. + + +INFANTS’ NAPKINS. + +PLATE 3. FIG 11. + +Babies napkins should be made of soft diaper, or, if for the poor, old +sheeting, table linen, or strong fine linen answers well. Choose your +material exactly 10 or 20 nails wide. Napkins are generally made by +cutting the diaper in lengths of 20 nails, and doubling each length +in two. Sew nearly all round the doubled piece, taking care to turn +the raw edges outwards instead of inwards, as usually done, because +the napkin is turned inside out, when it is sewn all round, with the +exception of a space large enough to admit the hand, to enable it to be +turned. This opening is afterwards neatly sewn up with small stitches. +It is essential that the seam or outer edge of napkins should be as +smooth and soft as possible, on account of the tender skin of infants: +it is very desirable to soak and scald the material often before it is +used. Two strings and a tape loop may be added, to be used instead of a +pin, to fasten it on. + + +ANOTHER MODE OF MAKING NAPKINS. + +The pieces, when cut off, should be merely hemmed like towels, and, +when used, are doubled and put on as the others. The grand advantage +of this simple sort is, that when there is but one baby, they come in, +after nursery use, for towels and other purposes, whereas the others +are comparatively useless. + + +INFANT’S NIGHT-GOWN. + +PLATE 3. FIG. 14, 15. + +Night-gowns are generally made of calico or dimity, and sometimes of +fine twilled muslin. The calico are most frequently used, but the +dimity look the prettiest; they, however, often split, and are not so +durable as the former. + +This pattern is the one usually adopted by ladies for infants: it +requires great neatness in the making up, to look well. + +Let your material be about a yard wide, and cut two breadths of 18 +nails long each. Fold each breadth very evenly down the middle, and +at one end stick a pin, exactly 2 nails from the selvages. Crease the +stuff from this point to about a nail from the bottom, and cut off the +gore. These gores come in for the two bands and wristbands. The former +are each 10 nails long, and 1 nail deep; the wristbands are 2½ nails +wide, and, when double, are ¾ nail deep: they should be nicely rounded +at one end. The sleeves are cut in the shape and to the size of Plate +4, Fig. 15. + +After sewing up the seams, the neck and arm-holes are formed. The +shoulder is a little sloped, and is 1¼ nail long. The arm-holes are a +little curved, and 1¾ nail deep. The bosom and back are hollowed, and +the slit behind is 3 nails deep. + +Procure a piece of strong insertion-work, 2½ nails long, and ⅔ of a +nail deep. + +In making it up, first hem the neck of the gown, and, at ¾ of a nail +below the bosom, run the finest gathers possible, leaving a space of 1½ +nail on each side, between the end of the gathers and the sleeve. The +gown is again gathered across, about a nail below the first gathering, +and then the insertion muslin is very neatly sewn on the gathers, with +very small even stitches; the two bands are next stitched, one at each +end of the insertion-work, and are rounded off at the ends. A narrow +frill of lawn is put round the bosom. The sleeves are fulled at the +top, and set in; they are either merely hemmed to admit a tape, and +a lawn frill sewn on them, or are put into wristbands, which should +button over. Instead of putting in insertion-work, some bias it at the +waist, which is thought to make it wear better. + +Fig. 14 represents the front, and Fig. 15 the back of the gown. + + +ANOTHER INFANT’S NIGHT-GOWN. + +PLATE 3. FIG. 16, 17. + +The skirt of this pattern is cut out exactly like the one before +mentioned, but is made up in a more simple manner. The gown, instead +of being gathered in front, is left loose, and a strip of calico, ½ a +nail deep, is sewn on in the inside, about ¾ of a nail deep from the +bosom, and of such a length as to leave, on each side, but two nails +space between it and the arm-holes. This piece of calico is to be used +as a string-case, and two small slits for tape-holes must be cut in the +gown, at about a ¼ of a nail distance, within each end of the strip. +The tapes should be rather broad, and each, on being drawn by a bodkin +through its slit, should be carried along the string-case and firmly +fastened down to the opposite end, so that, on pulling the two strings, +the gown is drawn up in neat gathers, forming a body. The sleeves are +cut down the selvage instead of crosswise, and are nearly straight, +the top being 4 nails wide, and the bottom or wrist, 2½ nails. A small +frill may be put on the bosom and wrists; or, if it is a coloured gown +for a poor child, a small runner to admit a bobbin, at the distance of +the width of a narrow frill from the edge, will, on being drawn up, +form a very neat frill both for the bosom and sleeves. + + +ANOTHER INFANT’S NIGHT-GOWN. + +This sort is only used by the poorer classes. It is made of coloured +print or soft calico, and is cut out exactly after the pattern of the +flannel bed-gown (see Plate 3, Fig. 4). The frills are formed by making +runners near the edge of the neck and wrists. + + +INFANTS’ PINAFORES. + +PLATE 3. FIG. 18. + +Pinafores are made of diaper, Holland, linen, or print. The former +are for ladies’ infants—the latter for the poor. The patterns vary +according to sex and age. The one generally used at first is as +follows:— + +SCALE. + + +---------------------------------+-----------+---------+---------+ + | ———————— |First size.|Child of |Child of | + | | | 2 yrs. | 6 yrs. | + +---------------------------------+-----------+---------+---------+ + | | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. | + |Length down selvage | 8 | 10 | 12 | + |Width of material | 11 | 14 | 15 | + |Depth of arm-hole | 2 | 2¾ | 2¾ | + |Piece left for shoulder | ¾ | 1 | 1¼ | + |Quantity hollowed out of neck | ¼ | ¼ | ¼ | + |Length of frill to each arm-hole | 10 or 11 | — | — | + |Depth of frill | ⅓ | ½ | ¾ | + |Distance from top for the second | | | | + | tape to be sewn on | 2 | 2¼ | 2½ | + |Size of gussets | ½ | ½ | ¾ | + +---------------------------------+-----------+---------+---------+ + +Procure your material exactly the proper width for the pinafore, to +prevent waste. Alter cutting off the pieces of the proper length and +width for the pinafores, take one piece and fold it down the middle, +length-wise, in two; then again fold it, and cut the slits for the +arm-holes by a thread. Pin it carefully together, still folded in +four, whilst you hollow out the neck, leaving the proper space for +the shoulders. Hem it at the top as you would a shift, by turning +down the hem, and then turning it backwards, the more readily to hold +it while you sew the hem firmly all round. The arm-holes should have +narrow hems, and be very firmly sewed at the bottom, or they will tear. +Whip and sew on the frills, hem the bottom, sew on the tapes, and the +pinafore is completed. Some people put gussets in at the shoulder: and +it is better to do so for elder children. + +For further sizes, see School Girl’s Pinafore. + + +PINAFORE WITH LAPPETS. + +PLATE 3. FIG. 19. + +This shape is very much used by the poor, as it protects the sleeves. +The pinafore is cut out exactly as in Fig. 18; but instead of putting +on frills, little capes or lappets are substituted. These capes are cut +width-way of the size, according to the Scale. + +SCALE OF LAPPETS. + + +--------------------+-------------+--------------+ + | ———————— | First size. | Second size. | + +--------------------+-------------+--------------+ + |Length down selvage | 10 nails | 1 yard | + |Depth | 1 ditto | 1½ nail | + +--------------------+-------------+--------------+ + +The cape is rounded off towards the ends, and, after being neatly +hemmed, is whipped and sewn all round the arm-hole, making the ends +come under the arm. In front, the pinafore is confined with a band, +which is stitched firmly on in two places before, and which, passing +round the waist, buttons behind. + + +THE WASTE-NOT PINAFORE. + +PLATE 3. FIG. 20, 21. + +This is a particularly simple shape, being cut without any waste +whatever. + +Divide the pinafore in four, and cut it according to the Plate. + + +SCALE. + + Nails. + Width of material 12 + Length of ditto 8 + Space from A to B 1½ + Space from B to C ¾ + Space from C to D ¾ + +Cut from A to D, by which means a shoulder-flap is made, and, when on, +the shoulder-piece is raised sufficiently to prevent the necessity +of hollowing out the neck. A double plait should be sewn under the +arm-hole (see Fig. 21, A). This cape, being plain, is improved by an +edging of work, or a little braid, to add lightness to its appearance. + + +A BABY’S DRESS PINAFORE OR TIDY. + +PLATE 3. FIG. 22. + +Intended to be worn when the child’s frock is tumbled or untidy. It is +made of cambric or jaconet muslin. There are two breadths in it of 14 +nails wide—one breadth in front, and the other cut in two, and sewn on +each side. The arm-holes are made in the seams, and frilled round, or +lappets sewn on. At the top in front, from shoulder to shoulder, the +pinafore is drawn up by a tape in the hem, and secured to the proper +size. The front is biassed into a band of insertion-work, to go partly +round the waist. The back is drawn by a string at the top, and again +below by a string-case. The front may be either simply biassed once +into the band, or it may have three or four rows of biassing. Round the +top is an edging of work, or a frill. + + +INFANTS’ PETTICOATS. + +PLATE 4. FIG. 1. + +SCALE. + + +---------------------------------------+------+----------+--------+ + | ———————— |First | Child of |Child of| + | |size. |18 months.| 2 yrs. | + +---------------------------------------+------+----------+--------+ + | |Nails.| Nails. | Nails. | + |Width of material | 14 | 14 | 16 | + |Length of body down the selvage | 9 | 10 | 11 | + |Depth of body | 1¾ | 2 | 2¼ | + |Depth of arm-holes | ¾ | 1 | 1¼ | + |Width of arm-holes | 1½ | 1¾ | 2 | + |Depth of slit behind | 3 | 3 | 3 | + |Length of shoulder-straps | 1½ | 1¾ | 2 | + |Length of short sleeve when opened out | 4½ | 7 | 8 | + |Greatest depth of ditto | 2¼ | 2½ | 3 | + |Least depth of ditto | ¾ | 1 | 1¼ | + +---------------------------------------+------+-+--------+--------+ + | ———————— |Child of|Child of| + | | 5 yrs. | 8 yrs. | + +---------------------------------------+--------+--------+ + | | Nails. | Nails. | + |Width of material | 16 | 18 | + |Length of body down the selvage | 12 | 13 | + |Depth of body | 2½ | 2¾ | + |Depth of arm-holes | 1½ | 2 | + |Width of arm-holes | 2 | 2¼ | + |Depth of slit behind | 3 | 3 | + |Length of shoulder-straps | 2 | 2¼ | + |Length of short sleeve when opened out | 9 | 10 | + |Greatest depth of ditto | 3½ | 4 | + |Least depth of ditto | 1½ | 2 | + +---------------------------------------+--------+--------+ + +Petticoats are generally made of jaconet muslin, twilled muslin, or +fine calico, and should be about 14 nails wide. The skirt is 2 breadths +in width, and cut to the length required, after allowing for the deep +hem or tucks. They are usually cut the following sizes for the rich and +poor. + + Nails. Nails. + First size 17 15 + Three-quarter size 13 12 + Small size 8 7 + +In cutting out the body, double the strip in two, and again in half, so +as to be folded exactly in four, and cut out the arm-holes according +to the depth and width wanted, as seen by the Scale. The sleeves +are cut out according to the pattern in Plate 4, Fig. 12 or 13; the +shoulder-straps are cut out, and the body is ready for making up. Hem +it along the top, sufficiently wide to admit a tape, stitch on the +shoulder-straps, sew and hem the sleeves, and gather them into the +shoulder-straps. The body should have rather wide hems at the two ends, +and a sufficiently wide hem at the bottom to admit a narrow tape. Full +the body in front, and sew it firmly to the skirt (which should be +previously gathered), making it lie pretty evenly all round. The top +strings should draw from the shoulder-straps only, and another string +may be run in the front to draw it, and tie on one side. + + +INFANTS’ FROCKS. + +PLATE 4. + +Are generally made of jaconet muslin, twilled muslin, and print, and, +when the children are older, sometimes of nankeen, jean, Holland, +merino, cloth, stuff, and silk. Those for the poor are usually of +print, and are made according to the pattern for petticoats (see Plate +4, Fig. 1); those for the rich are made in various ways, among which +are the following:— + + The full body. + The plain body, cut in one piece. + The plain body, with backs and fronts cut crosswise. + +[Illustration: PLATE 4. + +Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4 + +Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 7 + +Fig 8 Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 11 + +Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 17 Fig 18 + +Fig 19 Fig 20 Fig 21 Fig 22 Fig 23 + +Fig 24 Fig 28 + +Fig 25 Fig 26 Fig 27 Fig 29 Fig 30] + + +SCALE FOR THE SKIRTS. + +Width of skirt 2 or 3 breadths, so as to form from 14 to 16 nails wide, +when the skirt is double, as if made up. + + Rich. Poor. + ———— ———— + Nails. Nails. + + Length of skirt for first size 18 15 + Ditto three-quarters size 12 or 14 10 + Ditto short coats 8 8 + Depth of hem at the bottom 4 1 + Depth of slit to the skirt 2½ 2½ + +There are so many ways of making up skirts, that only a few will be +described. + +Broad hems and tucks of various depths are the simplest and prettiest; +others are more ornamented by letting in work at the top of the broad +hem, or working with braid, bobbin, or cord. Robings are often brought +down in front, in continuation of the little capes sewn on the bodies. +These robings should be 1½ nail broad, sloped off to ½ nail, and +carried down to the bottom of the skirt, or to the top of a deep hem. +They should be sewn on so that the edge of the work is turned outwards. + +The sleeves are made according to fancy, and are of the sizes marked in +the Scale, pages 35, 36.—(See also, Plate 4.) + + +FULL BODIES. + +PLATE 4. FIG. 1. + +SCALE. + + +-------------------------------------+-------+--------+--------+ + | | | Child | Child | + | ———————— | First | of | of | + | | size. | 1 yr. | 3 yrs. | + |-------------------------------------+-------+--------+--------+ + | | Nails.| Nails. | Nails. | + |Depth of body down the selvage | 1½ | 2 | 2¼ | + |Length of body width-way of the cloth| 14 | 16 | 20 | + |Depth of arm-hole | 1 | 1¼ | 1½ | + |Width across arm-hole | 1½ | 2 | 2¼ | + |Length of waistband | 8 | 9 | 10 | + |Length of band for the hem at top | 8 | 9 | 11 | + |Length of sleeve-bands | 3 | 3½ | 4 | + |Length of shoulder-strap, if wanted | 1¾ | 2¼ | 2½ | + +-------------------------------------+-------+--+-----+----+---+ + | | Child | Child | + | ———————— | of | of | + | | 5 yrs. | 8 yrs. | + |-------------------------------------+----------+----------+ + | | Nails. | Nails. | + |Depth of body down the selvage | 2½ | 3 | + |Length of body width-way of the cloth| 20 | 20 | + |Depth of arm-hole | 1¾ | 2 | + |Width across arm-hole | 2½ | 3 | + |Length of waistband | 11 | 13 | + |Length of band for the hem at top | 12 | 13 | + |Length of sleeve-bands | 4¼ | 4½ | + |Length of shoulder-strap, if wanted | 2¾ | 3 | + +-------------------------------------+----------+----------+ + +In cutting it out, double the strip for the body once, and again in +half, and then cut out the arm-holes the proper depth and width. The +full body is made up in either of the following ways:—the first and +most simple, is by merely hemming it at the top and bottom, putting +wide hems at the ends, and then setting it upon the skirt, making more +fulness at the back and in front than at the sides. The sleeves are put +into the body with shoulder-straps. + +The tapes are put in to draw from the shoulder-straps behind, at the +top, and another string to draw in front, also a tape all through the +waist-hem. + +These simply-made frocks are very useful for fast-growing children, as +they will let out to the size wanted. + + +ANOTHER MODE OF MAKING UP. + +PLATE 4. FIG. 2. + +The other mode of making them up is the neatest in appearance. The body +is gathered at the top and set into a long narrow band, which forms +the hem and the shoulder-straps. The bottom of the body is also firmly +gathered, and sewn on with very strong thread to the skirt, which +is also gathered so as to let the fulness lie principally in front. +Sometimes the body is biassed in front in two or three rows, as in Fig. +2. + + +PLAIN STRAIGHT BODY. + +SCALE. + + +----------------------------+--------+--------+--------+ + | | First |Child of|Child of| + | ———————— | size. | 1 yr. | 2 yrs. | + +----------------------------+--------+--------+--------+ + | | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. | + |Length of body down selvage | 10 | 11 | 12 | + |Depth of body | 1½ | 1¾ | 2 | + |Depth of arm-hole | ¾ | 1 | 1½ | + |Width across arm-hole | 1½ | 1¾ | 2 | + |Length of band, if wanted | 8 | 9 | 9½ | + |Length of shoulder-straps | 1¾ | 2 | 2¼ | + |Length of sleeve-bands | 3 | 3 | 3 | + |Length of band at top | 9 | 10 | 10 | + |Length of each cape | 9 | 10 | 11 | + |Depth down selvage | ¾ | ¾ | 1 | + +----------------------------+--------+--------+--------+ + | |Child of|Child of|Child of| + | | 4 yrs. | 8 yrs. | 10 yrs.| + +----------------------------+--------+--------+--------+ + | | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. | + |Length of body down selvage | 14 | 16 | 18 | + |Depth of body | 2½ | 2¾ | 3 | + |Depth of arm-hole | 2 | 2½ | 3 | + |Width across arm-hole | 2¼ | 2¾ | 3 | + |Length of band, if wanted | 10 | 11 | 12 | + |Length of shoulder-straps | 2½ | 2¾ | 3¼ | + |Length of sleeve-bands | 3½ | 4 | 4 | + |Length of band at top | 10 | 11 | 12 | + |Length of each cape | 13 | 14 | 14 | + |Depth down selvage | 1¼ | 1¼ | 1¼ | + +----------------------------+--------+--------+--------+ + +Straight bodies are generally used for ladies’ children, and are +ornamented in different ways. Some are worked in bobbin-work, +coronation braid (see Fig. 4), common braid, or else work is let in; +and others with satin-stitch worked on the muslin, or very fine small +tucks, either horizontal or perpendicular (see Fig. 3). One or two +bodies will be more minutely described here, as a guide by which to +make others. + + +PLATE 4. FIG. 5. + +Divide the body in half, so as to ascertain the middle, and run a +tacking-thread down it; run two others, one on each side, at the +distance of little more than ½ a nail from the middle, at the top, +and slanting down to the middle point at the bottom of the body; run +two others, at the distance of ⅔ of a nail on each side of the last, +slanting them towards the centre, at the distance of ½ a nail on each +side from the centre. These tacking-threads serve as a guide, by which +means the pattern can be done more regularly. Sew two bobbin-lines, +one on each side of each tacking-thread, leaving a small space between +them sufficiently wide for little oylet-holes, or some other ornamental +pattern, to be worked. Afterwards, sew on the bobbin neatly in +patterns, according to fancy. Put in the sleeves next, having worked +the bands and the triangular shoulder-bits to correspond with the +front. Next put on the capes. The whole should be trimmed with a little +edging or narrow work. + +PLATE 4. FIG. 8. + +The front is worked in fancy button-hole stitch, as in Plate 5, Fig. +19. The bands round the sleeves and the triangular shoulder-bits are +worked in rows of the same stitch. The capes are worked near the edge +with the horse-shoe stitch, as also the ends of the body (Plate 5, Fig. +20), and the edging is entirely of fancy bobbin edging (Plate 5, Fig. +18). + +PLATE 4. FIG. 6. + +Procure some pretty open work, in the style of that in the Plate, and +sew several strips together, always making the pieces narrower at the +bottom than at the top, in order to make them point towards the centre, +as in the Plate. A body made thus generally wears and washes very well. +The capes should be of some pretty work, and the whole trimmed with +edging to match the rest. The triangular shoulder-bits have a piece of +insertion-work inlaid in them. + + +BODY WITH HONEY-COMB STITCH. + +This body has the side-bits cut as above, and the front is a triangular +piece of honeycomb-stitch worked and let in. In making the triangular +bit, lay the plaits very narrow and even, before working it in +honeycomb. For a description of the stitch, see Plate 1, Fig. 15, 16. + + +SLEEVES. + +PLATE 4. + +There are various sorts of long and short sleeves, some of which it +is impossible to describe clearly, and it will not, therefore, be +attempted. The most simple are the following:— + + +THE ROUND SLEEVE. + +FIG. 1, 18. + +SCALE. + + +----------------------------------+-------+------+------+------+ + | | |Child |Child |Child | + | ————— | First | of | of | of | + | | size. | 1 yr.|3 yrs.|6 yrs.| + +----------------------------------+-------+------+------+------+ + | | Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.| + |Size of square piece out of which | | | | | + | the circle for the sleeve is cut| 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | + |Diameter of inner circle | 1 | 1¼ | 1½ | 2 | + |Length of shoulder-strap | 1¼ | 1¼ | 1½ | 2 | + |Length of sleeve-band | 3 | 3¼ | 3½ | 3¾ | + |Depth of sleeve-band | ½ | ¾ | 1 | 1¼ | + +----------------------------------+-------+------+------+------+ + + +FIG. 18. + +Cut your material into square pieces of the size wanted (in proportion +to the Scale), and double the square in half, so as to make it +triangular, or three-cornered in shape. Fold it in the same manner +again and again, as often as it will admit of being done; one side is +longer than the other, mark it with your scissors the same distance +on the long side from the point, as it is on the short, and cut it +directly across; by which means the square will become a circle, as +will be seen when opened. This circle should be hollowed out at one +side (Plate 4, Fig. 18), in order to make it set better under the +arm. Before opening the circle, a small hole should be cut at the +pointed end, to form the opening for the arm in proper proportion. The +shoulder-strap and band are next cut. Set the inner circle very neatly +into the band; after which, gather the outer circle and sew it to the +shoulder-strap, ready to put into the body. This sleeve is sometimes +confined by loops of ribbon, or little triangular pieces of work, as in +Fig. 2 and 6. + + +ANOTHER SHAPE. + +PLATE 4. FIG. 13. + +PRINCIPALLY USED FOR PETTICOATS AND PLAIN FROCKS. + + +SCALE. + + +----------------------------------+-----------+--------+--------+ + | | Baby’s |Child of|Child of| + | —————————— |first size.| 2 yrs. | 4 yrs. | + +----------------------------------+-----------+--------+--------+ + | | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. | + |Measure of the largest depth | 2 | 2½ | 3 | + |Length of sleeve, when open, | | | | + | to cut crosswise of the material| 7 | 9 | 11 | + |Measure of the smallest depth | ½ | ¾ | 1 | + |Length of band | 3 | 3¼ | 3½ | + |Length of shoulder-strap | 1¼ | 1½ | 2 | + +----------------------------------+-----------+--------+--------+ + +It is better to cut this pattern (and indeed all patterns of sleeves) +in paper, before cutting your material, to prevent waste. The pattern, +when folded in half, resembles Fig. 13, being for the first size, and +is 2 nails deep from A to B, and 3½ nails long from B to C. The top, +from A to D, is sloped down, beginning at E, which is about half the +length, by which means the depth from D to C is only 1 nail. When +opened, the sleeve resembles Fig. 12. In cutting it out, turn up a +corner of your material (Fig. 12) in the form of a half-handkerchief, A +B being parallel to, or straight with C D. The pattern sleeve is laid +with the long straight end upon the crease, so as to lie crosswise. Cut +through the folded muslin carefully by the pattern, so that the _pair_ +of sleeves is cut at once. The part which forms the bottom of the +sleeve is straight, and should be gathered into the band. The sloped +side is gathered or whipped into the shoulder-strap. + + +PLATE 4. FIG. 14. + +The Scale is the same as Fig. 13 and 8. + +This sleeve is the most favourite shape, and is cut out exactly like +Fig. 13; after which the part, A B, is sloped off at 1 nail from the +end, C. A triangular piece of worked muslin is hemmed round; the sleeve +is then neatly put into the arm-hole, with mantua-maker’s hem, or run +and felled, after which the rest of the sleeve is whipped and sewed on +to the triangular piece. These sleeves are generally made with a little +frill very much fulled, which forms a cape behind, and also in front; +the frill is therefore sewed on the sleeve neatly at the edge of the +triangular bit. + + +PLATE 4. FIG. 9, 11. + +This is another variety of sleeve, and is very pretty for a young +child. It is cut out, in the first instance, exactly like Fig. 14; +after which it is sloped off in the shape of a triangle below, so that +the sleeve requires a triangular bit below, as well as on the shoulder, +for the sleeve to be fulled to. The bottom triangle should be cut with +the band, into which the sleeve is confined. + + +LONG SLEEVES. + +PLATE 4. FIG. 15, 16, 17. + +Long sleeves, if for bed-gowns and under clothes, may be cut according +to the bits of cloth left, to prevent waste, always remembering to cut +selvage-wise. They are generally the shape of Fig. 15, Plate 4. The +sleeve is sloped off from D to A, so as to cut about a nail off the +stuff (see D C). Slope in the direction D E, to make the wrist about 1½ +or 2 nails wide. The part, A B D, should be hollowed. Sometimes it is +desirable to piece the sleeve when there are many bits; in which case +it may be joined across from B to E of the under double, taking care +that the muslin pieced on also runs selvage-wise. In cutting out long +sleeves, take care to cut them a pair, so that the joinings shall lie +outside, and the hollowed part towards the inside or front. From A to C +is 3½ nails. + +Long sleeves, for dresses, spencers, &c., to be properly made, should +be cut as follows (Plate 4, Fig. 16 and 17):—turn up the corner of your +muslin to form such an angle as will just hold the sleeve, so as to +make the one side of the long sleeve lie along the selvage, as in Fig. +16, where, the sleeve being small, but little of the corner is turned +up, in which the sleeve, A B C D, exactly fits. The top corner, F, must +be sloped off, and the corner, D C, also, to the proper width for the +wrist, which is 1½ nail. + +Fig. 17 is a better sort of sleeve, and is here introduced, though +it properly belongs to the table of sleeves in Plate 12, in which a +description and pattern of each size is correctly given. The corner is +turned up to a complete half square, so that A and B are parallel to C +D. From A to B is 6 nails; from B to D 5½ nails. From A to H, and from +B to C, are 1½ nail. Curve from H to E. From H to G are 5½ nails. From +E to F are 3½ nails. From F to G, 1¼ nail. This sleeve is called the +gigot, or gigot de mouton sleeve, from its likeness to a leg of mutton. +For further particulars, see Sleeves, Plate 12. + + +AN INFANT’S RECEIVER. + +A receiver, or wrapper, in which an infant is put immediately on its +birth, previous to its being washed and dressed, is composed of the +finest Welsh flannel, with a soft warm nap upon it. This flannel should +be a perfect square, and is generally made of 2 breadths of flannel; +the width of the flannel must, therefore, determine the size of the +square, which should not be less than 24 nails, or more than 2 yards. +A soft piece of fine calico, linen, or cambric muslin, is taken, of +the same size, and they are bound together with flannel binding. This +receiver is frequently used afterwards by the poor in the double +capacity of coverlet and shawl, to carry the infant about in. + + +INFANT’S SHAWL. + +For the first three months, infants should be carried about in a shawl, +not only on account of the warmth, but as a matter of security to their +tender heads and limbs, which cannot bear the hard pressure of the +nurse’s arm or hand. + +These shawls for the nursery should be simply a square of flannel of 1½ +breadth or 2 breadths. The best shawl, with which it is carried into +sitting-rooms, should be made of merino, Indiana, kerseymere, or, what +is better still, of the fine thick Saxony flannel. These are usually +made with very deep hems, about 1½ nail of the same material, braided +with silk braid all round, and worked at the corners, or else the hem +is formed of pearl-white satin or rich silk; but these last spoil so +soon, that it is a great expense. + + +INFANT’S FLANNEL CLOAK. + +PLATE 4. FIG. 19, 24. + +It is recommended to all mothers to have a flannel cloak to wrap round +their infants when carried about in their night clothes, and when up at +night; and they will be found especially useful when the baby is old +enough to be dipped in a cold bath, or obliged to be put in a warm one, +as, on taking the child out of it, they can wrap it up entirely, and +almost rub it dry with the cloak itself. + +The first size here mentioned will last a child well from its birth +until eighteen months or two years old. + + +SCALE. + + +-------------------------------------+--------------+-------------+ + | | First size. | Child from | + | —————————— | |3 to 6 years.| + +-------------------------------------+--------------+-------------+ + |Number of breadths of 14 nails | 3 | 3 | + |Length of skirt |1 yd. 4 nls. | 1 yd. 8 nls.| + |Distance of arm-hole from top | 4 nails | 5 nails | + |Length of arm-hole | 2 do. | 2½ do. | + |Collar (see Plate 13, Fig. 3) | column 4 | column 2 | + |Shoulder-piece (see Plate 13, Fig. 1)| | | + |Large cape, if wanted | 2 breadths | 2 breadths | + +-------------------------------------+--------------+-------------+ + | | Child from | + | —————————— | 6 to 9 years.| + +-------------------------------------+--------------+ + |Number of breadths of 14 nails | 4 | + |Length of skirt | 1 yd. 12 nls.| + |Distance of arm-hole from top | 6 nails | + |Length of arm-hole | 3 do. | + |Collar (see Plate 13, Fig. 3) | column 2 | + |Shoulder-piece (see Plate 13, Fig. 1)| | + |Large cape, if wanted | 2½ breadths | + +-------------------------------------+--------------+ + +The cloak requires two flannel shoulder-pieces to make it strong. Full +the skirt very evenly all round to the proper size, and then laying the +edge between the edges of the two shoulder-pieces, which should be held +so as to fall back or down against the skirt, one on each side, sew, or +rather back-stitch them very firmly together. When this is done, turn +up the shoulder-pieces on each side, so that the edges are completely +hidden on both sides of the cloak. Sew the collar neatly on to the +other two edges of the shoulder-pieces, and conceal the rough edges by +means of a wide string-case of soft tape or calico. + +The cloak is bound with flannel binding, and the arm-holes also; they +are either opened in the seam, or if that would make them too far back, +they should be cut in the flannel at once, at the proper distance. A +deep cape might be added as the child grew older, or if it were sickly +and required additional warmth. + + +CHILD’S BIB. + +PLATE 4. FIG. 25. + +This is often used by mothers for their children while cutting their +teeth, to prevent the moisture from their mouths wetting their chests +and the bosoms of their frocks. It is made of three or four folds of +fine diaper, sewed together on the wrong side, and turned inside out, +to conceal the edges, it is hollowed to fit under the chin, and made to +tie with a ribbon round the neck. + + +INFANTS’ PELISSES AND CLOAKS. + +PLATE 4. FIG. 20. + +Infant’s first cloaks are generally made of some warm material, as +cloth, merino, kerseymere, or wadded silk. The last-mentioned, though +pretty, soon spoils, being easily injured by wet, and the colours +of those parts near the baby’s chin fly and look shabby; merino and +kerseymere are decidedly the best for the purpose, and look equally +neat and handsome. There is a kind of fine but thickly woven flannel, +particularly strong and elastic, and well adapted for children’s shawls +and cloaks. It is called Saxony flannel, but is rarely to be procured +at country shops, and seldom of any colour but white. It is about 1 and +1½ yard wide, and varies from 3_s._ 2_d._ to 5_s._ per yard: for the +lower orders, cloth, stuff, nankeen, gingham, or print, are the most +serviceable. + + +INFANT’S LONG PELISSE. + +PLATE 4. FIG. 20, 21, 22, 28. + +It must be made of two or more breadths, according to the material; as +the widths vary exceedingly, it is impossible to lay down a definite +rule further than this; that the whole width round the bottom should be +from 30 to 33 nails; and at the top sloped off to 24 nails. + +Supposing the material to be of wide width (say 20 nails), half one +breadth would be wide enough for the back, and one whole breadth +crossed according to Fig. 22, would form the two fronts. Observe that +the two straight sides of the crossed pieces are set in front. + +SCALE. + + +---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+ + | | First | Second | + | —————————— | size. | size. | + +---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+ + | |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.| + |Length of skirt | 1 3 | 1 0 | + |Width round the bottom, about | 33 | 30 | + |Sloped off at the top to reduce the width to | 24 | 24 | + |Length of shoulder | 2 | 2¼ | + |Sloped off from the shoulder | ½ | ½ | + |Length of arm-hole | 2 | 2½ | + |Arm-hole curves into the skirt (see Fig. 28) | ½ | ½ | + |Length of sleeve down the selvage | 5 | 6 | + |Width of ditto | 5 | 6 | + |Double the sleeve selvage-wise, and slope off| | | + | for the wrist to | 1½ | 2 | + |Case for string sewed on inside | 4 | 5 | + |Whole length of band | 10 | 11 | + |Cape, according to Plate 13, Fig. 31 | | | + |Collar, according to Plate 13, Fig. 13 | | | + +---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+ + | —————————— | Third | + | | size. | + +---------------------------------------------+---------+ + | | Nails. | + |Length of skirt | 14 | + |Width round the bottom, about | 30 | + |Sloped off at the top to reduce the width to | 24 | + |Length of shoulder | 2¼ | + |Sloped off from the shoulder | ½ | + |Length of arm-hole | 3 | + |Arm-hole curves into the skirt (see Fig. 28) | ½ | + |Length of sleeve down the selvage | 7 | + |Width of ditto | 6 | + |Double the sleeve selvage-wise, and slope off| | + | for the wrist to | 2 | + |Case for string sewed on inside | 6 | + |Whole length of band | 12 | + |Cape, according to Plate 13, Fig. 31 | | + |Collar, according to Plate 13, Fig. 13 | | + +---------------------------------------------+---------+ + +The sleeves, collar, &c. should be cut from the remaining half-breadth +of the cloth. + +If the material be but 10 or 12 nails wide, 3 breadths must be used, +and the two front breadths sloped off to the proper width at the top. + +In making up the pelisses, the front breadths are lined with silk or +sarsenet, as also the top part or body, collar, cape, &c., but the back +breadth should be lined with cambric muslin. The hem at the bottom of +the skirt is about 1½ nail deep, while that up the sides and round +the cape and collar are but ¾ of a nail. Take notice, in cutting your +collar and cape, that allowance must be made for the hems. + +The skirt seams are sewed up, as well as the lining, and joined +together by means of the broad hem round the bottom; the shoulders, +arm-holes, and sleeves are next completed, after which the neck is +finished by making a hem at the top, and drawing a tape through it, +which is fastened down at both ends after the skirt has been drawn up +to the proper width which should be about 1 nail wider than is required +to set round the neck. A strong case of ribbon or other soft material +is next put round the neck inside, through which a ribbon is drawn and +fastened in the middle. This ribbon, of course, ties in front. + +For children’s short pelisses, see Plate 14. + + +CLOAKS FOR SUMMER. + +PLATE 4. FIG. 23. + +This is a very simple and remarkably neat looking pattern for a second +sized cloak. It looks well when made of twilled muslin, cloth, nankeen, +print, and especially fine dimity. The material should be about 1 yard +3 nails wide, in which case one breadth and 14 nails is sufficient for +the skirt, which should be one yard long. + + +SCALE. + + +-------------------------------------------+----------+ + | | Yds. nls.| + |Quantity required for one at 19 nails wide | 3 14 | + |Width of cloak at the bottom | 2 1 | + |Length of ditto | 1 0 | + |Size of sleeves, both width and length | 5 | + |Length of wristband down the selvage | 3 | + |Width of ditto | 2 | + |Length of band | 12 | + |Width of ditto | 2 | + |Collar cut according to Plate 13, Fig. 3 | column 2 | + |Shoulder-piece (see Plate 13, Fig. 4) | column 1 | + |Length of cape down the selvage | 7 | + |Whole width of ditto | 2 0 | + +-------------------------------------------+----------+ + +The remaining 5 nails off the second breadth of the skirt may be cut +into collar, shoulder-piece, &c. The cloak has a broad hem laid on +all round, which the cape and collar have also, to form which, strips +should be cut selvage-wise of 1¼ nail, and sometimes worked muslin +edging of a neat but open pattern is put on all round. + +About 9 or 10 yards of the strips are required, and, as frequent +joinings look ill, it would be better to cut off a piece of the +material a yard long, from which all the strips can be taken off; 9 +strips of this length will only take 11¼ nails out of the breadth; +therefore, if economy is a great object, 10 strips might be cut in the +breadth of but 10 nails deep, which would cut up the breadth without +waste. + + Yds. nls. + Material for Cloak and most of the et ceteras 2 0 + Ditto for long cape 14 + Ditto for strips 1 0 + —— —— + 3 14 + +If the strips are often joined, 3 yards 8 nails. + +In making up the cloak, the shoulder-piece is piped all round, and the +skirt fulled evenly into it. The collar is then sewn on, and a casing +made at the top, to admit of a ribbon. The broad hem is next laid on +all round, and the sleeves put in. At the waist, the casing is sewn on +inside, and the band outside, the back may be confined to the band or +not, at pleasure. + + +INFANT’S FIRST HOOD. + +PLATE 4. FIG. 26, 27, 29, 30. + +This is the most approved shape for infant’s first hoods, whether they +are boys or girls, owing to its warmth and softness, and also for the +comfort with which an infant can rest its head on its nurse’s shoulder. +They are generally made of merino, Indiana, kerseymere, satin, silk, +nankeen, or indeed of any material similar to the cloak. Kerseymere, +lined with silk or satin of a pale colour is particularly pretty and +suitable, from its simplicity. + +[Illustration: PLATE 5. + +Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 10 + +Fig 3 Fig 4 + +Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 12 Fig 14 Fig 15 + +Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 13 Fig 16 + +Fig 30 Fig 31 + +Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 19 Fig 20 Fig 21 + +Fig 21 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 24 Fig 25 Fig 26 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 29] + +Cut a piece along the selvage, 7 nails long, and three nails wide; +double it in half its length, making it only 3½ nails. Let F A (see +Fig. 27) be the doubled part, and on the opposite end, measure off one +nail from C to B, and cut it off in a direct line from B to A. F D is +the front of the hood. The horse-shoe crown (Fig. 26) must be cut next, +for which take another piece of 2¼ nails long, down the selvage, and +2 nails wide. Fold it half the width, and slope off a third of a nail +from the bottom, B to D, also round off the top. For the tippet or +curtain, form a perfect circle, from a square of 8 nails, from which +take out the triangular piece (see Fig. 30, A B C), the distance from B +to C being 2 nails along the line. In making up the hood, cut a lining +of silk or satin the same size; also one of fine flannel, wadding, or +demet; then sew the crowns into the head-pieces of each of the three +materials separately. The merino hood may be piped with silk or satin, +braided with silk braid or worked in chain-stitch, with netting silk, +round the horse-shoe crown, after which, place the flannel lining +between the merino and silk, and stitch them firmly together with +small neat stitches, as close to the piping or braid as possible. +Next run them all together at the edges, admitting a piece of chip or +thin whalebone to give a little stiffness. Two runners are made three +quarters of a nail from the edge, and from each other; these runners +must be of sufficient width to admit the three-penny width ribbon. +These ribbons are fastened at one side of the hood, and drawn up to +the proper size, and then tacked down at the other, leaving sufficient +ribbon to allow of the hood being undrawn entirely, when it is wanted; +another ribbon is put behind. A rosette of satin ribbon is worn on the +left side, if a boy, and in front, if a girl, and a small bow behind. +The curtain is sewed on plainly along the horse-shoe, but fulled from +thence to the ears. + +These hoods will draw out to last a child twelve months after its +birth, and will clean well, when of merino. + +For children’s hats and bonnets, see Plate 19. + + +COVER FOR A BASSINETTE. + +PLATE 5. FIG. 1, 2, 3, 4. + +A bassinette (see Fig. 4) is a very small cradle made of wicker-work, +about 3 feet long, 18 inches wide, and 15 inches high. It is very +useful for carrying about, and may be set upon a table, sofa, or bed, +taken in a carriage, or even upon the lap with little inconvenience. +For a delicate child, and in the winter, it is very desirable, being +much warmer than a larger cradle. + +Bassinettes are fitted up with a coloured lining under a thin dimity +or muslin covering. The lining is sometimes made of white, blue or +pink satin or silk, but more generally, and more sensibly, of glazed +calico. It should be put on the outside of the wicker-work, and also +very neatly fulled in regular folds inside it. The cover is made about +half a yard deep down the selvage, and 4½ yards wide. When all the +breadths are sewed together, a deep hem is made at the top, with a +runner for a string (the hem and runner together to be about 1 nail). +If the material is thick, it is better to sew to it, quite plainly, a +deep frill, of a finer texture, to give it lightness, instead of having +the frill made of the same; through the runner pass a tape, which will +draw it all round to the proper size, to fit the body of the cradle; +a second hem at the bottom will also be required for the same purpose +(see Plate 5, Fig. 1). The head-piece, Fig. 2, is made, so that when +drawn up, it will fit the head of the bassinette. Cut a piece of ½ a +yard down the selvage, and 1 yard 2 nails in width. As there must be +no seam in the width, if the material be not wide enough, it would +be better to cut the width down the selvage-way instead. It must be +doubled in half the width (the 1 yard 2 nails), see Fig. 2, and sloped +off from B to C in a very gradual curve, the space from A to B is 3 +nails. Hem each of the two straight sides, and make a runner from B to +C for a tape. Next full the straight part, D A, to the exact size round +the front of the head; let the fulling lie towards the middle, and when +ready, sew on the double frill, which is made of fine clear muslin. The +frill, Fig. 3, is cut in strips width-way, of 3 nails each; sew these +strips together till you have about 4 yards length of frilling; make a +narrow hem on each side of the frill, and then begin to put it upon the +front, or fulled part of the head-piece; for this purpose, double the +frilling exactly in half, and while thus doubled, allow from the centre +¼ of a nail for the frilling, and make another even crease all along. +Open the frills, and turning down at the one side, begin to run; and, +dividing it, of course, into quarters, gather it evenly; when done, +sew it firmly to the cover, at within ¼ of a nail from the edge; after +which, turn down the other outer crease at the proper distance from the +centre of the frill, and do the same with it; when ready, sew it on to +the edge itself of the head-piece. This frilling should stand up well, +and not he flat against the cover; for this end, not quite so much as +¼of a nail should be allowed between the two seams. A ribbon the same +colour as the lining runs through the puffing, and fastens the cover on +in front, while the tape or ribbon, through the other runner, ties it +at the bottom of the head, and draws it up to the right size. + + +CRADLE COVER. + +PLATE 5. FIG. 5, 6, 7, 8. + +A cradle merely requires a little drapery over the head, to form +curtains, in order to guard the infant from the sun, or from draughts +of air, while asleep, and to give an air of comfort and cleanliness. + +The drapery should always be perfectly white, of dimity, twilled +muslin, or other neat strong material. Some ladies put covers of thin +muslin over a coloured lining, but nothing looks so well as perfectly +white curtains. The dimity, &c. should be about 1 yard wide; take two +breadths of the proper length from the head of the cradle to the floor, +about 14 nails, pin them evenly together, and sew up the seam from A to +B (Fig. 5), about the distance of ½ a yard, but this must be determined +by the cradle, observing to sew up until it begins to curve. As the +curve must be cut while the material is fitted on the cradle itself, +the dimity should be pinned along the bottom of the cradle from A to +E, and also from A to B at the back. Then fit it accurately by pinning +the breadths exactly, though easily together, along the curve, allowing +enough for shrinking in washing, and when nicely fitted on, cut off the +superfluous part and stitch it along, while on the cradle; the rough +edges may afterwards be turned over, and hemmed down. The remainder of +the dimity in front, is intended to hang over the cradle top, to form +little curtains; hem round each side, and connect them together with +small stitches, by running a cord up one hem, and down the other (Fig. +5, C D), the piece is drawn up to a small compass. This drawn up piece +will require a bow or rosette of muslin (see Fig. 8); the whole piece +may be trimmed with fringe, or turned up with a piping, which, if the +cover be lined with glazed coloured calico, should be of the same. A +loop of cord should come from underneath, and encircle the rosette (see +Fig. 8). + +For noblemen’s families, these covers are sometimes edged with silk +fringe, or turned up with silk or satin, to accord with a lining of the +same. + + +CRIB COVERS. + +PLATE 5. FIG. 16. + +These are generally made with a horse-shoe back, reaching from the top +to the bottom of the crib; it is piped all round, and a piece of the +proper width to go from side to side over the hoops is cut selvage-way, +and either sewn plainly or fulled on to the horse-shoe back. This +piece may either be finished in front like that over the cradle head, +by drawing it up, and thus forming curtains; or two half-breadths may +be fulled evenly round to this head-piece. Crib covers are frequently +lined with blue or other coloured calico, which is sometimes made +larger than the cover, to admit of being turned up so as to form a +little border outside. + + +INFANT’S HANGING COT. + +PLATE 5. FIG. 9. + +This is a convenient shape, as it easily takes to pieces when not in +use. The sides are either made entirely of wood, when no drapery is +necessary; but they are usually merely frames to which ticking or any +other material is fixed. + +If it is furnished with ticking, it is laid on plain, though almost any +other material, which will not wash is laid in plaits or fulled. The +material is bound all round, and nailed on at the inner side, after +which, an inside lining of glazed calico, or other material is put. + +If the material is a washing one, glazed calico, chintz, twill, or +white dimity is used; and this last is particularly neat and nice, and +in the country might be made to keep clean a long time; the pieces +should be fulled into some strong binding, to which very small loops +might be sewn, large enough to admit of the nail to confine it firmly +to the crib, so that when the covering is removed for washing, the +loops alone are torn by the nails, and they can be easily replaced. +The head drapery is similar to that of Fig. 16. Cotton fringe and gimp +set all round, both above and below, gives a pretty finish to the +whole. The ropes of the cots should be often looked to, and frequently +renewed, as they wear out quickly, and the child’s safety depends on +their strength. + + +THE TRAVELLING COT. + +PLATE 5. FIG. 10,11,12, 13. + +This is a most convenient crib for mothers to use when travelling with +young children, as it is extremely light, and can be put up in two +minutes, and if kept in a leathern case, with straps (see Fig. 10), +it can easily be attached to the roof, or below a carriage, and be +perfectly free from damp. + +The stand (see Fig. 13) is made of strong beech-wood, and when taken +to pieces, is in seven parts. The upright posts are fastened together +two by two, by the short bits of wood, A and B, which are screwed tight +into the legs by long iron screws, with brass heads. The long bar, C D, +connects the two sides together also, by means of screws. These screws +should be attached to the posts or bars they belong to, by a string, +as the loss of one would render the crib unsafe. The lower parts of +the four posts are much thicker than the upper, to give support to +the crib. This is formed of five pieces of wicker-work (see Fig. 11), +the bottom and four sides. The four sides are fastened firmly to the +bottom, allowing, however, ample room to give full play for the sides +to fold backwards or forwards. At each extreme corner is fastened a +ring of iron, brass, or strong wicker-work. These rings are so placed, +that when the sides are turned up to form the crib, the two rings at +each corner shall slip over the top of each post of the stand, by which +means all will remain firm. + +The wicker crib should be 4 feet long, 2 feet 6 inches wide, and 15 +inches deep. The one narrow end might be made deeper to give more +protection to the head; and one or two hoops might be put into a ring +or staple at the sides of the wicker-work, by which means a head-piece +is easily made. + +The stand posts should be 30 inches high, letting from E to G be 13 +inches, from G to H, 7 inches, and from H to J be 10 inches. + +The head drapery might be made similar to Fig. 15. The lining should +be very simple and easily put on; also very warm, on account of the +open wicker-work sides. Wadding or flannel should be quilted well +over, between two folds of Holland, coloured glazed calico, or chintz, +and made to tie on inside. This lining should be very thin, else it +will take room in packing. When the crib is packed up, the posts are +unscrewed, and the basket is folded with the sides inwards, so as to +require as small a case as possible. A pillow from any bed is all that +would be required, as bedding for the crib. + +A child’s cradle or crib contains the following articles:— + + A mattress, which should be 1 nail thick, made of ticking or + Holland, and stuffed with wool or horse-hair. + +Some ladies have their mattresses filled with finely cut chaff, others +with sea-weed or with beech leaves. Chaff keeps particularly dry, and +is cool and pleasant to lie on in the summer. + + A bed, which should be very thin, and made either of best feathers + or down. + + A pillow, also thin, and made of down. + + Three blankets, made of thick Welsh flannel, and bound round with + flannel binding, or worked with coloured worsted. + + One coverlet, of which some can be procured made for the purpose; + or, if not, the material sold for toilette covers will answer as + well, if it is light. + + A head-piece, or drapery for the head. + + To which may be added a pair of calico sheets, if the child is + some months old; otherwise they are not sufficiently warm for them + to lie upon: an Indian rubber or a leathern sheet, to prevent the + feather bed from getting wet, and the ticking decayed; a foot + flannel, or piece of flannel 2 breadths square, bound round, to + wrap up the child’s feet. + + +BABY’S BASKET. + +PLATE 5. FIG. 31. + +A baby’s basket should be lined either with the finest dimity or +cambric muslin; in the latter case, an inner lining of coloured glazed +calico or silk is often added. The cover should be very full—about +three times the length round the basket, or more. After cutting the +strips width-way, and sewing together sufficient to form the length +required, make a small hem or runner along one side; after which, +another is made about ½ a nail or more from it, according to the exact +width of the ledge at the top of the basket. Upon the outer of these +two runners is sewed a double frill, and between this and the inner +runner, slits are cut in the proper places to admit the four handles, +which are neatly hemmed round. At the bottom, on the other side of the +strip, there is also a runner, through which a cord is drawn. A piece +of the dimity is next fitted to the bottom of the basket, after which, +the strip that goes round it being drawn up evenly, it is sewed on very +neatly and firmly to the bottom piece. To the four corner strings are +sewed, which being passed through the straw work of the basket, tie the +cover firmly down to it. + +The strings for the top are put in as follows:—four long pieces of cord +are cut off, about 1½-yard each; they are doubled in two, so that one +end is only a ¼ of a yard long: these cords are sewed firmly in the +runner, each to the one side of each of the four handles, letting the +short end of the cord be drawn through the runner at that shortest side +next the corner, while the long cord has to be drawn past the handle +and along to the furthest corner, where, on meeting the short end of +another cord, it is tied firmly under the ledge of the basket. Of +course these cords cannot be run in until the covering is actually upon +the basket. + +It may not be considered as out of place here, to state the usual +contents of a basket, when prepared for an infant at its birth. + +At the bottom, after putting in the bottle, with its leather or +parchment suck, the other things are placed in the following order:— + +The large flannel shawl, the calico bed-gown, night-flannel, night-cap, +shirt, napkins, flannel cap and band, soft towels, sponge, hair brush, +powder-bag, or box. Quite at the top are the receiver, the pincushion, +with large and small pins, large pair of scissors, and a ball of strong +thread or fine twine. + + +THE PINCUSHION. + +PLATE 5. FIG. 17. + + “The satin cushion chequered o’er + With shining pins, this motto bore.” + —THE MOTHER. + +One kind, out of the numerous sorts known to every body, is alone +mentioned here, as being the best, on account of its steadiness and the +depth, which renders it safer, should it chance to get into the hands +of a young child. + +It is rather longer than it is broad, being about 7 nails by 6 nails, +and nearly 3 nails deep. This will hold the largest pins without danger +of their pricking through to the other side. The top and bottom should +be made alike, with a frill all round, as seen in the Plate. These +pincushions are sometimes made of muslin over satin or silk, but, if +intended to be useful, white dimity is by far the best. + + +THE LEATHER SUCK FOR BOTTLES. + +PLATE 5. FIG. 15. + +As most of the articles used by infants have been entered upon in turn, +it is considered advisable to mention also the mode of making and +fastening on the leather or parchment suck to the bottle. The suck is +cut in the shape of the figure, so that when doubled down the middle, +it resembles the upper part of the thumb of a glove. The two sides +and the top are either joined together in the button-hole stitch or +back-stitch; and if the latter, the suck must be turned inside out, +that the smooth side may come in contact with the infant’s mouth. If +mothers follow the rather dangerous practice of putting a bit of sponge +inside the suck, it should be first well tied round and fastened to +the nose of the bottle, and the string brought round the ledge of the +hole (see Fig. 15), and brought again to the nose of the bottle and +fastened. The sucks are merely fastened on by a strong thread wound +round the nose. + + +LINING FOR CHAIRS. + +PLATE 5. FIG. 30. + +These little chairs, without legs, which are so useful to set upon +the table or floor, for those children to sit in who cannot support +themselves safely, should be softly lined throughout. A piece of +flannel and wadding, cut to fit the chair, should be quilted together +with the material the chair is to be covered with, either Holland, +chintz, or calico. The whole should be very neatly bound, and then +sewn or tacked on to the chair. A little cushion, stuffed with bran +or horse-hair, should be put for the seat. These chairs should have +sticks, with large knobs to screw on at each end. They should also +be made with the sides or arms to lay flat, or turn up and fasten +at pleasure, as they can, when flat, be easily packed in a trunk or +laid under the carriage seats; and these comforts, when travelling, +are well worth attending to. These little chairs, when the child can +walk, come in nicely for swings, when, of course, the sides require +lacing up firmly. For the baby’s night-chair should be made a flannel +cushion to sit upon. Three or four doubles of flannel, cut to the size +of the seat, with a hole stitched round in the centre, and run over in +diamonds, is both neat and serviceable. + +A child’s travelling night-stool is so great a convenience in the +carriage, during long journeys, that it is here mentioned, though +there is little to be said as to its fitting up. The lid should be +covered with cloth, stuffed well with horse-hair or wool, to make it +soft as a seat. This cloth should be nailed all round with smooth +brass-headed nails. The lid should open with a spring, and the seat +inside be covered with soft quilted flannel or Indian rubber cloth. The +pan, which is of block-tin or crockery, should have a lid made to fit +it tightly. These little stools should be about 9 inches high, and 10 +inches square. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + +WOMEN’S SHIFTS. + +PLATE 6. + +Shifts are generally made of fine Irish linen or calico, for the +upper classes, and of stout linen, or strong but soft calico for poor +children. + +Shifts are cut out differently, according to the width of the cloth. If +it is wide, the shift takes 2 breadths in the skirt, and gores are cut +off from the top to sew on the bottom to widen the skirt. + +If the cloth is still wider, so as to admit of only 1½ breadth in the +shift, or else very narrow, so that 2 breadths are barely sufficient, +the shift is crossed. The tops vary, as do also the shapes of the +sleeves. The following are those generally worn. + +SCALE FOR GORED SHIFTS. + + +---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+ + | | Largest | Smaller | + | ———————— | size. | size. | + +---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+ + | |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.| + |Width of material | 14 | 14 | + |Quantity required for one | 3.. 2 | 2.. 14 | + | Ditto ditto for six |18.. 12 |17.. 4 | + |Length of skirt, cut in one piece | 2.. 12 | 2.. 8 | + |Width of piece to gore off at the top | 2½| 2 | + |Space to leave for the shoulders | 1¾| 1½| + |Depth to hollow the bosom | 2¾| 2½| + | Do. to hollow the back | 2 | 2 | + | Do. of flaps, if preferred | 3 | 3 | + |Length of sleeve down the selvage for Fig. 1 | 6 | 6 | + |Depth of sleeve | 3 | 3 | + |Size of gusset | 3 | 3 | + +---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+ + | | Second | First | + | ———————— | size. | size. | + +---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+ + | |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.| + |Width of material | 13 | 12 | + |Quantity required for one | 2.. 7 | 1.. 15 | + | Ditto ditto for six |13.. 11 | 9.. 11 | + |Length of skirt, cut in one piece | 2.. 2 | 1.. 10 | + |Width of piece to gore off at the top | 2 | 1¾| + |Space to leave for the shoulders | 1¼| 1 | + |Depth to hollow the bosom | 2¼| 2 | + | Do. to hollow the back | 1¾| 1½| + | Do. of flaps, if preferred | 2½| 2 | + |Length of sleeve down the selvage for Fig. 1 | 5 | 5 | + |Depth of sleeve | 2½| 2¼| + |Size of gusset | 2½| 2¼| + +---------------------------------------------+---------+---------+ + +[Illustration: PLATE 6 + +Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4 + +Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 7 + +Fig 20 Fig 8 Fig 16 + +Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 11 + +Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 17 Fig 18 + +Fig 19] + +In goring a shift, the 2 breadths may be cut in one length, to prevent +a seam on the shoulder. Fold your piece of cloth in two, and pin the +sides very accurately together, or with long stitches tack them up the +selvages. Next double the shift in half its length, from A to B, and +put in pins to mark the crease in the middle, C C. Unfold the shift +and double it again very carefully the width-way, so as to let the +four selvages lie very evenly one upon another. Measure from the top, +B, the space, B D, to be cut off, crease the linen in a straight line, +from D to C, and cut it carefully off through the four thicknesses +of cloth. The gores thus cut from off the top are reversed and sewed +on to the bottom, to widen the skirt. The dotted lines in the Plate +shew the width of the cloth, and the dark clear lines are intended to +represent the shape of the shift. When the gores are sewed in, shifts +are generally hollowed out at the back, and may either be also hollowed +in front or have a flap cut, as seen in Fig. 2. The hollowing at the +back is not so deep as in the front, therefore, great care must be +taken in cutting the one not to injure the shape of the other; and in +order to insure the two halves of each side being cut to correspond, +it is advisable to cut the shape of the parts to be hollowed out in +paper, to lay the paper on the linen, and cut by it. When the breadths +are cut separately, as in some cases they must be, the seams on the +shoulders should be sewed previously to the parts behind and before +being hollowed. If the flap in front is preferred, it may either +be cut straight down, as in Fig. 2, or in a slanting direction, as +the shoulder in Fig. 6. This last plan is usually followed, and a +button-hole is worked near the front of the shoulder-strap, which, +being folded over to a button sewed on the shoulder-strap of the stays, +neatly confines all straps, &c., in the fold. + +SCALE FOR FIG. 6. + + +-------------------------+-----------+------------+-----------+ + | ———————— |First size.|Second size.|Third size.| + +-------------------------+-----------+------------+-----------+ + | | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. | + |Length of shoulder-strap | 4 | 3½ | 3 | + |Widest width of ditto | 1¾ | 1½ | 1¼ | + |Sloped off to | ¾ | ¾ | ½ | + |Length of plaited sleeve | 8 | 7 | 6 | + |Depth of ditto | 2½ | 2 | 1½ | + |Size of gusset | 2 | 1½ | 1½ | + |Length of sleeve-band | 4½ | 3¾ | 2¾ | + |Width of ditto | ½ | ½ | ½ | + |Length of bosom gore |1 full nail| 1 | ¾ | + |Width of ditto at the top| 1 | 1 | 1 | + +-------------------------+-----------+------------+-----------+ + +There is another mode of cutting out the top of a shift, and, from its +simplicity and economy, is preferable to any other. The shoulder-straps +are cut separately from the skirt, which is, consequently, cut shorter, +and is made quite straight at the top. The shift, after being gored or +crossed, has little bosom gores put in front. The top is then hemmed, +both before and behind, and the straps put on. A neat frill may be +added, to give a finish to the whole. + +The sleeves are sometimes cut out of the width of one of the breadths +of the skirt, when the material is a little too wide; but unless you +have linen of an awkward width by you, it is a wasteful plan, as the +strip thus cut off is generally twice as long as the quantity required +for the sleeves. Observe, if this plan be adopted, to cut off the +length for the sleeves all in one piece, and not length by length from +each separate breadth, as much waste would arise from so doing. If the +sleeves are to be made as in Fig. 2, they may be cut in one length, +sleeve and gusset together, down the selvage (see Fig. 17, 18, 19), +and so many lengths in the width of the cloth. If they are to be made +according to Fig. 6, an extra nail in length must be allowed for the +plaiting. The gussets are reduced in size, according to the Scale, and +a band to gather the sleeve into, at the bottom, is neatly stitched. + + +CROSSED SHIFTS. + +PLATE 6. FIG. 3, 4, 5. + +SCALE. + + +----------------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+ + | | Largest| Second | Third | + | ———————— | size. | size. | size. | + +----------------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+ + | |Yds. nls|Yds. nls|Yds. nls| + |Width of material | 1 0| 14| 12| + |Quantity for one, not including sleeves | 2 12|2¼ 0| 2 0| + |Quantity for six, not including sleeves | 16 8|4½ 0| 12 0| + |Length of skirt | 1 6|1¼ 0| 1 0| + |Width of skirt, when sewed up, should be| 1 0| 14| 12| + |Part to mark off at top and bottom, | | | | + | at opposite corners | 10| 9| 8| + |Width of skirt at the top, when sewed up| | | | + | and double | 11| 10| 8| + |Width of ditto at the bottom, when sewed| | | | + | up, and double | 1 4|1 2| 1 0| + |Sleeves for one | 6| 6| 5| + |Sleeves for six | 1 5|1½ 0| 15| + +----------------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+ + +Before crossing a shift, sew the 2 breadths or the 1½ breadth, +whichever it happens to be, together, and next, after flattening the +seams with your thumb nail, crease the skirt, so that these two seams +shall lie exactly one upon the other, and tack or pin them firmly +together; or, to give a neater effect, the seams are brought, one in +front and the other behind, so as to divide it in exact thirds. Fig. +4 represents the skirt when sewn up, A A being intended for the seam. +Measure off 1¼ nails at the left hand of the top B D, and on the right +hand of the bottom B D of the skirt, and double it from D to D, as in +Fig. 5; and that you may be sure your measurements are accurate, it +is better to double it again upwards, at X and Y, so that B D at the +bottom, should lie upon B D at the top, and the corner C upon C, as in +Fig. 3. If they do not exactly correspond, the shift is not correctly +folded. After pressing these creases with the hand, unfold C from C, as +it was before (see Fig. 5), and cut evenly from D to D. The skirt must +then be turned. The two wide ends are for the bottom—the two narrow +ones for the top of the shift. + +It is made up as follows:—After sewing and felling the seams, and +hemming the bottom, the hem at the top must be turned down, as if for +hemming, and then turned back again and sewed all round, which is much +stronger than a common hem. The sleeves are generally set in plainly, +excepting, of course, in those intended to be full, as in Fig. 6. + + +CHILD’S SHIFT. + +PLATE 6. FIG. 9, 10, 11. + +This is a particularly neat pattern for a child from five years up to +any age, and is generally the first shift used after leaving off the +little shirt which is seen in the baby-linen. + +As these shifts consist of 1½ breadth of 9 yards long, an even number, +as 2, 4, or 6, should be cut out at the same time to prevent waste. + +SCALE. + + +--------------------------------------------------+------------+ + |Width of Irish linen | 12½ nails | + |Length of ditto | 9 do. | + |Number of breadths | 1½ breadth| + |Width of shift at the top, when gored, and double | 8 nails | + |Width at the bottom, when double | 11 do. | + |Space left for shoulders | 1½ do. | + |Depth of slit for lappets | 2 do. | + |Depth of arm-hole | 2¾ do. | + |Whole length of sleeve, including gusset | 4½ do. | + |Depth of sleeve | 1½ do. | + |Length of shoulder-flap | 3 do. | + |Width of ditto | 1¼ do. | + |Length of lining | 7 do. | + |Width of ditto | 1¾ do. | + +--------------------------------------------------+------------+ + +Two gores, of 2¼ nails at the top, and ¾ of a nail at the bottom, are +cut off the whole breadth (see Fig. 9), which reduces the body to 8 +nails at the top, and 11 at the bottom, which is the proper width of +the shift. These gores are sewn on to the half-breadth, which makes it +exactly correspond with the other side. After sewing the two halves +together, leaving 2¾ nails from the top for the arm-holes, cut down +the slits for the bosom flaps 2 nails deep, leaving 1½ nail space for +the shoulders. Next, cut out the sleeve flaps (see Fig. 11) of 1¼ +nail deep, and 3 nails long, and, after hemming them all round, sew +them with firm small stitches to the shoulder. At the edge, B, sew on +a piece of tape, in which make a button-hole, which buttons over the +shoulder to the button, K, and confines all straps, as seen in the +sleeve marked A, in Fig. 11, where the flap is represented as turned +back over the shoulder, as it is when worn; whereas in the sleeve, +marked B, the flap is unturned. The sleeves are hemmed all round, and +then one end is turned up to form the gusset, to one side of which the +other end of the sleeve is sewn, as in Fig. 17, 18, 19; they are then +put plainly into the arm-hole, which must be previously hemmed. + +The lining is put in last, and is turned down once a deep fold, all +round. It is neatly felled inside to the shift. The lining is 7 nails +long, and 1⅓ nail wide. It is sewn in a little below the arm-hole, and +carried over the shoulder to the corresponding place on the other side +of the shift. Strings are sewn to the points of the flaps, both before +and behind. Children’s sleeves are sometimes fulled on the shoulder. +The work should be close and strong. The flaps are sometimes made of +fine lawn, edged with a cambric frill or worked muslin, and allowed to +lie over the shoulder, outside the dress, which has a clean and neat +appearance. + + +A SECRET WORTH KNOWING. + +HOW TO SAVE ONE SEAM AND TWO FELLS IN MAKING UP TWO SHIFTS. + +PLATE 6. FIG. 12, 13, 14, 15. + +This is a useful hint for those who make up much linen at home. It is +done as follows:— + +Take 3 breadths of the wide-width cloth, and sew them all together +like a bag; then lay two of the seams very exactly one upon the other, +and either pin or tack them firmly together; fold the whole piece in +half, width-wise, so as to have four thicknesses of linen lying upon +one another. Cross it like a common shift, Fig. 15, measuring it top +and bottom to see if it is even, and it will cut into four pieces, one +of which, Fig. 12, will have no seam at all; one, Fig. 13, will have +a straight seam down the middle; the other two, Fig. 14, have each a +piece like a gore on one side. These shifts, when neatly made, are just +as serviceable and as good as those cut in the usual way, and it saves +a great deal of work. + + +PLATE 6. FIG. 8, 16. + +This is a pretty variety of sleeve, and is most suitable for young +children. It is intended to fall over the frock. Fig. 8 represents the +shape of the sleeve when cut out, and Fig. 16 when it is finished. The +sleeve is cut all in one piece, taking care that the slope of the flap, +C, when turned back, corresponds with the slope of the sleeve, D. The +sleeve and flap are frilled with cambric, work, or lace. The advantage +of this shape is, that both sleeve and flap are in one. + + +TROWSERS OR DRAWERS. + +PLATE 7. + +These are worn by men, women, and children of all classes, and almost +all ages, under the different names of trowsers and drawers. They are +made in a great variety of ways. Those mentioned here are the kinds +most generally approved. Drawers for ladies and children are usually +made of calico, twill, and cambric muslin. Those ladies who are +invalids, or who ride much, frequently wear flannel or wash-leather +drawers, with or without white calico leglets. For men, drawers are +composed of very strong twill, calico, linen, flannel, and stockinet. + + +CHILD’S TROWSERS. + +PLATE 7. FIG. 1, 2. + +This is a child’s first pair of trowsers, and should be made of fine +twill or calico. Each leg is cut in one piece, and, when folded, is 4½ +nails wide; therefore, to prevent waste, the material should be 9 nails +in width. + +Cut off the 2 breadths for the two legs, of the proper length, and +observe the following directions:— + +SCALE. + + +------------------------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | Width of material | 9 | + | Length of each breadth | 9 | + | Fold the breadth in half its width | — | + | Measure from A to B, Fig. 2 | 4 | + | From E to C | 2 | + | From F to B | 4 | + +------------------------------------+--------+ + +Slope off from A to C, and cut from A to B, taking off ½ a nail from +the width at the top. + +In making, sew up the legs and join them at the seam in front, leaving +them open behind, with a broad hem on each side, formed by laying +a strip of the same material at each end, which is run at the edge +on the wrong side, turned over to hide the stitches, and hemmed or +back-stitched near the edge. The legs are then tucked, and the work +or frill sewn on. The whole is next set into a band, ¾ of a nail deep +when doubled, and 5 nails long, which buttons behind. Shoulder-straps, +with button-holes, are attached to the trowsers by means of buttons +before and behind. This plan is far more convenient than that of +sewing on the straps, as, when they are only buttoned on, if it is +necessary to change the trowsers in the course of the day, they may be +simply unbuttoned without undressing the child, and the clean trowsers +fastened to the shoulder-straps, which still remain over the shoulder. + +[Illustration: PLATE 7 + +Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 11 Fig 12 Fig 20 + +Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 21 + +Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 22 + +Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 17 Fig 19 + +Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 18] + + +A CHILD’S LARGER TROWSERS. + +PLATE 7. FIG. 3, 4. + +This resembles Fig. 1 and 2 in every respect, excepting that the top is +sloped or hollowed at the back. + +Procure your material 10½ nails wide, to admit exactly of one leg being +cut in the width. + +SCALE. + + +-----------------------------------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | Length of each breadth | 10½ | + | Fold it in half, letting D be the double part | — | + | From the top to B | 1 | + | From B to A | 4½ | + | From B to F | 4 | + | From F to E, or the half-breadth | 5¼ | + | From F to H | 5½ | + +-----------------------------------------------+--------+ + +Slope from G to E, and again from E to C, through A; after which, cut +at the top of one fold from A to B, and of the other from B to C. Take +care to cut the pair to match, so that the outer, or hollowed parts of +the legs should rise, the one towards the right, and the other towards +the left side. These are made up in a similar manner to Fig. 1. + + +GIRL’S TROWSERS. + +PLATE 7. FIG. 5, 6. + +Each leg of these trowsers is also made in the entire breadth. + +Procure your material 10 nails broad. + +Cut each breadth 8 nails long, not including the tucks, which, if they +are deep, will add about 2 nails more. Supposing it but 8 nails long, +cut as follows, after folding the breadth in half its width. + +SCALE. + + +-----------------------------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | From A to B | 1 | + | From B to C | 4 | + | From C to E | 3 | + | From F to G, or the entire half-breadth | 5 | + +-----------------------------------------+--------+ + +Slope from E to G. Cut in a straight line from G, past C, to H. Cut one +fold from C to B, and the other from H to B. + +If the tucks require 2 nails length in addition to the above size, +continue the width of the legs, the same as from C to E (3 nails), to +the end. + +In making up, sew the trowsers up before and behind, and cut two slits, +one on each side, to the depth of 3 nails. These slits have broad hems +laid on all round them; to form which, cut two strips of 4½ nails long, +and 2 nails broad; split each length down the middle, to within 1½ nail +from the end (see Fig. 2). This strap is laid close to the edge and run +all round the two sides of the slit, turned over, and hemmed down. This +false hem greatly strengthens these slits. + +The whole is then set into two bands, one for the front, and the other +for the back of the trowsers. These bands are 5½ nails long, and ¾ +of a nail wide, when doubled. A button-hole is strongly worked, in a +slanting direction, at each corner of the bands, by which they are +fastened to two buttons sewed upon the stays. + + +TROWSERS FOR A BOY OR GIRL. + +PLATE 7. FIG. 7, 8, 9. + +This is a pretty body and trowsers, and is very suitable to little +boys, especially if they are at all delicate, being particularly warm. + +The body is composed of one middle piece, 6 nails long, and two side +pieces, 3½ nails long each. They are 2½ nails deep, and, when sewed +together, the middle is hollowed so as to make it only 2¼ nails. + +The trowsers are made as follows:— + + Width of material, 12 nails. + Length of each breadth, 11½ nails. + Fold each breadth in two (see Fig. 8). + + +SCALE. + + +-----------------------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | From A to B | 3½ | + | From A to C | 4½ | + | From C to H, half the breadth, or | 6 | + | From C to E | 6 | + | From E to F | 5 | + +-----------------------------------+--------+ + +Slope from H to B; also from H, past F, to G, at the top of the +breadth, whence it is cut to E, for the hollowed fold, while the under +one is cut straight from E to F. + +This trowser opens at the side; there is also a small opening in front +(see K, Fig. 7). The body is hemmed all round, and sewed on plainly +to the front band of the trowser, but it is left loose, as in Fig. 7, +beyond the arm-holes on each side. The two bands button to each other +at the sides, the body ties behind, and may, or may not be fastened +also to the band of the trowsers at each side, having button-holes to +correspond with the buttons. A little pocket should be sewed inside the +slit down the sides, as in Fig. 9, where it is represented as if drawn +out, or turned inside out. + + +LEGLETS. + +PLATE 7. FIG. 10. + +These are useful to put over the legs of children’s trowsers, when they +are soiled or tumbled, before it is necessary to put on an entirely +clean pair. They are usually made of some finer material than the +trowser itself, and look well for an evening, when they are of fine +cambric muslin, with open work, or small tucks. They are fastened by +three or four buttons and button-holes or loops, the buttons being +sewed to the trowsers. Sometimes the trowser itself only reaches to the +knee, and leglets are always attached to it, by means of small buttons; +they should be put on pretty closely, to make the leglets fit well, say +six or eight on each leg; button-holes are made to correspond in the +leglets. They are especially advantageous for children who play a great +deal out of doors, or who live in a town, they will sometimes soil one +or two pair in a day. + + +WOMEN’S DRAWERS. + +PLATE 7. FIG. 11, 12. + +These are formed of two separate legs sewed into a band, which is made +to button before or behind, at pleasure. For a moderate size, Fig. 12 +will be a good guide. + +Width of material, 14 nails. + +Length of each breadth, 15 nails. + +Fold each breadth in half its width, letting D be the doubled part, and +measure as follows:— + + +SCALE. + + +------------------------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | From A to B is | 4 | + | From B to C | 8 | + | From C to G | 7 | + | From C to E | 7 | + | Cut in a straight line from A to E | — | + | From F to G | 1 | + | From F to S | 5 | + +------------------------------------+--------+ + +Cut in a straight line from S to G; cut also from E to Z, the point Z +being within ½ a nail from the side. Hem the bottoms of the legs, after +sewing up the seams, and hem round the slits, or open part; set them +into the band, making them overlap each other (see Fig. 11). The band +is 11 nails long, and 3 nails wide. + + +ANOTHER SHAPE. + +PLATE 7. FIG. 13, 14. + +Some persons, both ladies and children, wear bodies attached to their +drawers, as in the figure, which represents a child’s size. + +Procure your material 10½ nails wide. + +Cut each breadth 9 nails long. + +Let D be the doubled part, and mark as follows:—(Fig. 14.) + + +SCALE. + + +-------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | From A to B | 2½ | + | From A to E | 4 | + | From E to B | 5¼ | + | Slope from B to B | — | + | From E to G | 4 | + | From the top to G | 1 | + +-------------------+--------+ + +Cut from G to H, H being 4½ nails from the doubled side. + +Cut from H to C. + +Let the body be 2½ nails deep, and 10 nails long, fold it in four, cut +out the arm-holes, and sew on the shoulder-straps. + +In making up the trowsers, sew the legs together in front, after they +have been run up, leaving them open behind, and laying on a broad tape +(see T T, Fig. 13), sew on the body, and it is completed. + + +TURKISH TROWSERS. + +PLATE 7. FIG. 15, 16. + +These Turkish or full trowsers are often worn by little girls. + +Procure your material 10 nails wide, to admit one leg exactly in the +breadth. + +Cut each breadth the proper length, say 9 nails long. + +Fold each breadth in half, letting D be the doubled part (Fig. 16.) + +SCALE. + + +--------------------------------------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | From A to B, or the width of the doubled breadth | 5 | + | From B to C | 4 | + | From the top to E | 1 | + | From E to F | 4 | + +--------------------------------------------------+--------+ + +Cut one fold from E to F, and the other from E to G. Cut from G to C in +a straight line. + +In making, sew up from B to C, and either gather the bottom, A B, into +a band, to which a frill is set on, or else make a deep hem to admit of +a ribbon, which draws it up to the proper size, and ties in a bow. To +this hem is sewed a broad frill or handsome piece of work. The latter +is the most convenient plan of the two for the washerwoman, as the leg +will lie quite flatly to be ironed. + + +TROWSERS FOR A LITTLE BOY. + +PLATE 7. FIG. 17, 18, 19. + +This is a particularly good pattern, and very suitable for a boy. + +Procure your material 10 nails wide, to admit of one leg in the breadth. + +Cut each breadth 7½ nails long. + +Double the leg so as to leave 2 nails unfolded, or rather, fold it to +within two nails of the selvage. Let D, Fig. 19, be the doubled part. +From A to B is 2 nails, and is not double. From B to C is 4 nails, the +one fold being cut in a slight curve from B to C, and in a sweep from A +to C. The bottom of the leg is 3 nails wide. Slope from G to C, G being +nearly 2 nails from the bottom. + +The body is 10 nails long, and 2½ nails deep; fold it in four, and cut +out the arm-holes (see Fig. 18). + +In making, sew up each leg from K to G, and hem round every other part; +next, make the body, hemming it all round, after which, sew the legs +firmly to the body, making the flap, A L C, of one leg, overlap or lie +across the flap of the other leg. These two flaps, after being firmly +set into the band, are farther secured by back-stitching them together +along the dotted line. Fig. 17. + + +MEN’S DRAWERS. + +PLATE 7. FIG. 20, 21, 22. + +These are men’s strong drawers, made of coarse twill or calico. + +Procure your material 14 nails wide. + +Cut each breadth 13 nails long. + +Fold the breadths in half, letting D, Fig. 20, be the doubled part. The +drawers are quite straight at the top, the piece, C H F, being an extra +bit put in (see Fig. 20). + +[Illustration: PLATE 8 + +Fig 1 Fig 4 Fig 12 + +Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 15 + +Fig 5 Fig 16 Fig 19 + +Fig 2 Fig 6 Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 20 + +Fig 3 Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 21 Fig 25 + +Fig 9 Fig 22 + +Fig 10 Fig 23 Fig 24 + +Fig 11] + +SCALE. + + +-------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | From A to B | 3¾ | + | From C to E | 4¼ | + | From the top to G | 5 | + | From F to E | ½ | + +-------------------+--------+ + +Cut from G to B, and one fold from G to E; the other is from G to F. + +A triangular piece is put in at the top of the back, of 3 nails in +continuation from F to H. + +The pair of drawers has two bands of about 7 nails long each, and 1½ +nail deep, when doubled. + +In making, sew up the legs, and put on the extra piece at the back. +Sew the two legs together at the back, and hem the slit on each side +in front. Set each leg into a separate band, leaving them open before +and behind. Work four little oylet-holes in the band behind, to admit +tapes, which are laced through them and tie; in front, metal buttons +are put, and button-holes made. Down each leg, in the front, a broad +tape or piece of strong calico is laid, to strengthen it. A slit of +about 2 nails long is made at the bottom of each leg. Broad tape is +laid on round each leg at the bottom, forming a sort of hem, and oylet +holes are worked on each side of the slit, for tape to come out at, +which draws them to the proper size. + +Fig. 20 represents the back of the drawers cut out. + +Fig. 21 represents the back of the drawers made up. + +Fig. 22 represents the front of the drawers made up. + + +WOMAN’S NIGHT-JACKET. + +PLATE 8. FIG. 1, 2, 3. + +SCALE OF DIFFERENT SIZES. + + +--------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+ + | | Woman. | Girl of |Girl of | + | | | 18 yrs. | 12 yrs. | + +--------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+ + | |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.| + |Width of material | 14 | 14 | 12 | + |Quantity required for one | 2 10 | 2 3 | 1 13 | + |Quantity required for six |15 1 |13 2 |10 14 | + |Quantity required for twelve |31 8 |26 4 |21 12 | + |Whole length of body to be doubled | 1 8 | 1 4 | 1 0 | + |Space to leave for shoulders | 3 | 2¾ | 2½ | + |Length of sleeves down the selvage | 10 | 8 | 6½ | + |Width of ditto, two in breadth | 7 | 7 | 6 | + |Length of collar down the selvage | 8 | 7 | 6½ | + |Width of ditto, or four in the width | 3½ | 3½ | 3 | + |Length of wristband down the selvage | 4 | 3½ | 3¼ | + |Width of ditto, or four in the breadth| 3½ | 3½ | 3 | + |Length of binder down the selvage | 4½ | 3½ | 3 | + |Width of ditto | 1 | 1 | 1 | + |Size of sleeve-gusset | 3 | 2¾ | 2½ | + |Size of neck-gusset | 1½ | 1¼ | 1 | + |Width of frill | 1¼ | 1 | ¾ | + +--------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+ + +Night jackets for the higher classes are made of linen, lawn, cambric +muslin, and fine calico; also of dimity and twilled calico; and for +the lower orders, of linen or calico. The calico should be soft and +strong; and the unbleached or grey calico, as it is usually called by +Linen Drapers, is warmer and often more durable than the white. + +Fig. 1 represents the plan or picture of a piece of cloth of the +proper width, on which all the parts for forming a woman’s jacket are +accurately marked, with the exception of the shoulder-straps, which, as +they do not fit in, might be made of any extra bits. + +Cut out the two breadths of the skirt in one length, to avoid a seam +on the shoulder. Fold it very exactly in half, and, after leaving 3 +nails at each end of the folded side, to allow for the shoulders, slit +open the neck from A to G, after which, measure carefully and find the +middle of the neck, C, and slit it down to the bottom, D, to form the +opening in front of the jacket. + +The sleeves, which are 10 nails long, and the two cut in the width, are +either sloped off towards the wrist, fulled into a wristband, as in +Fig. 10, or else neatly run, at a sufficient distance from the edge, +to form a kind of frill (Fig. 9). This running is done in two rows, +extended nearly all round the cuff, and neatly stretched upon a piece +of tape, which is laid inside, and carried all round the cuff. + +Fig. 3 represents a plan for cutting out twelve jackets, which is the +most economical number, cut out at once, to avoid waste. The pieces in +the Plate are marked with the initial letter for their use, and the +width of the piece, thus, S 7, signifies sleeve 7 nails wide. On the +left hand of the plan is marked the length of each piece, and on the +right hand is set down the number of those lengths required to be cut +to form the set complete, thus, 12 L means 12 lengths. The frills are +generally of fine lawn or cambric, or else corded, jaconet, checked, or +other muslins. + + +NIGHT-GOWN. + +PLATE 8. FIG. 5. + +SCALE. + + +------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+ + | | | | | + | | Woman. | Girl of | Girl of | + | | | 18 yrs. | 14 yrs. | + |------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+ + | |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.| + |Width of material, if gored | 15 | 14 | 12 | + |Width of gore to be cut off each | 1¾ | 1¾ | 2 | + | side at the top | 1¾ | 1¾ | 2 | + |Width of the bottom will be | 18½ | 17½ | 16 | + |Width across the top will be | 11½ | 10½ | 8 | + |Quantity required for one | 4 1 | 3 8 | 3 0 | + |Quantity required for two | 7 13 | 6 8 | 5 11 | + |Length of skirt | 1½ 0 | 1¼ 0 | 1 0 | + |Depth of slit in front | 6 | 6 | 5 | + |Space to leave for shoulders | 2½ | 2½ | 2 | + |Slope of shoulders | 1 | 1 | ¾ | + |Width of binders | 2 | 1½ | 1½ | + |Length of ditto down the selvage | 8 | 8 | 8 | + |Width of sleeves or two in | | | | + | the breadth | 7½ | 7 | 6 | + |Length of sleeves down the selvage | 9 | 8 | 8 | + |Width of wristband (if required) | 2 | 2 | 2 | + |Length of wristband down the selvage| 4 | 3½ | 3 | + |Size of sleeve-gusset | 3 | 2 | 3 | + |Depth of frill | 1¼ | 1 | ¾ | + +------------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+ + +This shape is not so much worn as that of Fig. 4, nor perhaps has it +so neat and finished an appearance, but on many accounts it is the +most desirable, being in the first place, more economical; it also +washes more easily, and above all, is particularly convenient in time +of sickness, when it is very essential to a weak or suffering person +to be able to draw open the gown at the neck and wrists, so as to have +full play for the arms in changing her linen, or having blisters, +leeches, &c. applied; whereas those night dresses confined at the neck +in collars are very irksome, and cause much unnecessary suffering in +being removed. The scale and plans so clearly explain the size, shape, +&c. that nothing remains to be said, except that a band is sometimes +worn round the waist, with a narrow frill sewn round the ends, which +are sloped off, according to fancy. + +It is better economy to cut three or six gowns together, as the +gussets, binders, &c. take about the third of a breadth, so that in +cutting out one, there is an unavoidable waste of the other two-thirds +of a breadth. The two sleeves cut in the width, and are, for the +largest size, 9 nails long. + + +ANOTHER NIGHT GOWN. + +PLATE 8. FIG. 4. + +It is more economical to buy your material of a sufficient width to +merely gore it, if only one gown is to be cut out. + +It is better to cross the skirt, and use 1½ breadth of very wide +material, if six are to be cut. + +SCALE FOR CROSSED SKIRT. + + +---------------------------------+-----------+----------+----------+ + | | | Girl of | Girl of | + | ———————— | Woman. | 18 yrs.| 14 yrs. | + +---------------------------------+-----------+----------+----------+ + | | Yds. nls.| Yds. nls.| Yds. nls.| + |Width of material | 18 | 16 | 14 | + |Quantity required for six | 18 14 | 16 15 | 15 0 | + |Length of skirt | 1½ 0 | 1 6 | 1 3 | + |Width of ditto | 1½ breadth|1½ breadth|1½ breadth| + +---------------------------------+-----------+----------+----------+ + |Piece to mark off at top and | 7½| 7 | 6 | + | bottom for crossing |leaving 10½|leaving 9 |leaving 8 | + +---------------------------------+-----------+----------+----------+ + |Width of bottom when crossed | 21 | 18 | 16 | + |Width of top when crossed | 15 | 14 | 12 | + |Length of sleeve down the selvage| 9 | 8 | 7 | + |Width of sleeve | 9 | 8 | 7 | + |Length of binder down the selvage| 10 | 8 | 7 | + |Width of binder | 1½| 1½| 1½| + |Length of collar down the selvage| 8 | 6½| 5 | + |Width of collar | 3 | 2½| 2¼| + |Length of wristband | | | | + | down the selvage | 4 | 3½| 3 | + |Width of wristband | 2 | 2 | 2 | + |Size of sleeve-gusset | 3 | 2 | 2 | + |Size of neck-gusset | 2 | 1 | 1 | + |Depth of slit in front | 6½| 6 | 6 | + |Space to leave for shoulders | 3 | 2½| 2 | + |Width of frill | 1¼| 1 | ¾| + +---------------------------------+-----------+----------+----------+ + +SCALE FOR A GORED GOWN. + + +----------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+ + | | Woman. | Girl of | Girl of | + | ———————— | | 18 yrs. | 14 yrs. | + +----------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+ + | |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.| + | Width of material | 15 | 15 | 14 | + | Piece to be gored off at each | | | | + | end of the top | 1¾ | 1¾ | 1¾ | + | Length of skirt | 1½ 0 | 1 6 | 1 3 | + | Width of sleeve | 7½ | 7½ | 7 | + | Width of binders | 2 | 2 | 1½ | + +----------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+ + +All the other parts are the same as in the scale for the crossed gown. + +In cutting out six crossed gowns, tear off the 9 breadths for the +skirts, allowing 1½ breadth to each; after which, cut off the 6 lengths +(9 nails long each) for the sleeves; two sleeves cut in the width. +Next cut off a piece 10 nails long, which divide width-way into twelve +binders of 1½ nail wide each. Afterwards, cut off another breadth of +8 nails long, to divide width-way into six collars of 4 nails width. +The gussets will require two breadths of 3 nails deep, to be divided +width-way also, in six of 3 nails width. + +The wristbands are 4 nails long; and as only nine of 2 nails width +can be cut in 1 breadth, the remaining three must be cut off a second +breadth, which will leave sufficient cloth over, exactly to cut the 12 +neck-gussets, in two rows deep of 2 nails square. By this arrangement, +no waste whatever is made. + +The one gored gown is cut according to the scale; Fig. 8 is a +bosom-bit, which adds much to the strength of the slit. It is +impossible to cut out one of these gowns alone, without a little waste. + + +PLATE 8. FIG. 6. + +This is an exceedingly neat looking night-dress, and for full size is +cut according to the following dimensions. Cut two breadths of 1 yard +wide, and 1½ yard long each, and sew up the seams, leaving 3 nails from +the top for arm-holes. Cut out two shoulder-pieces according to Fig. +7, which represents half, the letter D being the doubled part. If it +is made of calico, put a neat piping round the one shoulder-piece, as +it materially strengthens the night-dress; and after fulling the skirt +evenly round to the other, and setting in the sleeves, lay the upper +shoulder-piece over the lower one. Pipe and frill it up the neck, and +if preferred, a collar may be added, with a second frill above. If the +night-dress is made of linen, it must be neatly stitched instead of +piped. The sleeves are 8 nails square, and the wristband, as in Fig. +11, 4 nails square, to which a frill is added. + + +FLANNEL WAISTCOAT FOR A LADY. + +PLATE 8. FIG. 12. + +Cut a piece of flannel 12 nails wide, and 7 nails deep; fold it in two, +and at 2 full nails from the middle or doubled part, cut the arm-holes, +which are 2 full nails wide, and 1¼ nail deep, leaving 2 nails for half +the back; hollow the front half a nail. At the bottom of the waistcoat, +immediately under the arm-holes, cut a slit upwards to the distance of +3 nails, and put into these slits, gores of 3 nails wide at the bottom, +sloped off to a point, being 3 nails long. These gores are differently +cut to most others, being sloped equally on both sides, instead of +having one side straight, so that the point is in a straight line with +the middle of the gore at the bottom (see Fig. 12). + +Cut two other slits to admit of bosom gores of similar shape, but +smaller size, being 1¾ nail broad, and 1¾ nail long. They are put in 1 +nail from the shoulder-strap. + +In making up, herring-bone all round the waistcoat; the slits and +gores, and the seams also, are herring-boned with strong thread, the +seams being turned flatly back, and laid side by side on the finger, +so that the one row of herring-boning shall join the two compactly +together (see Fig. 15). Some persons lay a broad tape, say a nail +wide, down the front, on which the buttons are sewed, and button-holes +worked. Tape shoulder-straps complete the whole. This waistcoat buttons +in the front. + + +A BOY’S WAISTCOAT. + +PLATE 8. FIG. 13, 14. + +The following size is suitable for a child of 12 years old:— + +The waistcoat is made in three parts; the middle piece should be 7 +nails wide, and 6½ nails deep; the side-pieces must be the same depth, +and 5 nails wide. Sew up the seams, and fold the waistcoat in four, +like a pinafore, then cut out the arm-holes, which, while thus doubled, +are 1½ nail in width, and the same in depth; the waistcoat is then +opened, and hollowed out in the front (see Fig. 13). + +In making up, tape is sewed all round the edge, at the inside, and +broad tapes down the sides, in which the button-holes are cut. Straps +are sewed on, and the whole is finished. + + +A WAISTCOAT FOR AN INVALID BOY OF THE WORKING CLASS. + +PLATE 8. FIG. 16. + +Take a breadth and a half of flannel, each 9 nails long, and sew them +together, leaving them open in the front. Fold the waistcoat in four, +and cut the shoulders, and slits for the arm-holes, as in a pinafore; +the shoulders are 1½ nail deep, and the arm-holes 2½ nails long. Hollow +it a little at the top, and after sewing up the shoulders, gather it +at the top into a tape the proper length (say 5 nails). Put in sleeves +without gussets, which are 7 nails long, and 4 nails wide before being +sewed up; hem the fronts, and lay on a broad tape at the inside of the +hem, in which the button-holes are made; herring-bone the bottom and +sleeves. + + +A MAN’S UNDER WAISTCOAT. + +PLATE 8. FIG. 17, 18. + +This is generally made of fine calico, and is cut out according to the +Plate. + +For the back (Fig. 17), cut your paper pattern 9 nails long, and 7 +nails wide: double it in half its width, and, as in the Plate, letting +D be the doubled part, mark as follows:— + +SCALE. + + +-----------------------------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | From A to the top | 1½ | + | From B to the doubled side | 1½ | + | C is half way, and from C to the side F | 1½ | + | From E to the doubled side | 2 | + +-----------------------------------------+--------+ + +Curve from A to B, and from A through C to E. + +The front is cut as follows:—Let your pattern be 11 nails long, and 8 +nails wide (see Plate 8, Fig. 18). + +SCALE. + + +-------------------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | From A to B is | 9 | + | From B to C | 2 | + | From C to D | 2½ | + | The shoulder, from D, slopes | ½ | + | Length of the shoulder | 2 | + +-------------------------------+--------+ + +The arm-hole is sloped, and is rather difficult to manage, but by +looking at the Plate, and following the directions, as nearly as +possible, the same shape may be attained. + +SCALE. + + +-----------------------------------+---------+ + | | Nails. | + | From the arm-hole, S, to the side | 3½ | + | From the bottom, T, to the side | 5 | + | From the point, R, to the top | 2 | + | From the side to R | 1 | + +-----------------------------------+---------+ + +Curve from R to the bottom, also from D to B, and cut out the arm-hole. + +In making up, sew the pieces together, lay on a broad piece of calico +all down the front, lay a tape round the neck, and set on your buttons +down the front, with button-holes to correspond. + +This shape, but varying of course in size, will do for boys of all ages. + + +BOY’S VEST OR UPPER WAISTCOAT. + +PLATE 8. FIG. 19, 20. + +This is made of cloth, jean, or nankeen. The size here given, would +suit a boy ten or eleven years old. + +The vest is in three parts, viz.—one back and two fronts. To cut out +the front (Fig. 19), let your paper pattern be 3½ nails wide, by 4¼ +nails long. + +SCALE. + + +-------------------------+---------+ + | | Nails. | + | From the corner to E is | 2¾ | + | From the top to A | ½ | + | From the side to A | ½ | + | From B to each side | 1¾ | + | From C to the top | 1 | + +-------------------------+---------+ + +Curve in for the arm-hole, from E to A, cut from A to B, and curve from +B to C. + +For the back (Fig. 20), let your paper be 5 nails long, by 3¼ nails +wide. + +SCALE. + + +----------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | From the top to A | ¼ | + | From the corner to B | 1¼ | + | From the side to C | 1 | + | From the top to C | ¾ | + | From the top to F | 2½ | + | From the corner to E | ¼ | + +----------------------+--------+ + +Curve slightly from A to B, cut in a straight line from B to C, hollow +for the arm-hole from C to F, cutting into the cloth about 1¼ nail, +slope from F to E. + +In making up, join the two shoulders together, then sew E G, Fig. +19, to F E, Fig. 20; line it, bind with galloon or tape round the +neck, arm-holes, waist, and up the fronts, put on buttons, and make +button-holes to correspond in front. Buttons are also put on round the +waist, to which the trowsers are to button, as no braces are worn with +this vest. + + +CHILD’S NIGHT VEST. + +PLATE 8. FIG. 21, 22. + +Some children are in the habit (when in bed) of kicking off their +sheets; and it is very desirable for such to wear fine flannel or +demet waistcoats under their night-gowns in winter, and calico ones +in summer, to prevent their catching cold. These waistcoats or vests, +if for children under five or six, may be cut two in the width of the +flannel, and about 8, 10, or 12 nails long, according to the size of +the child. After cutting off the pieces required, fold each in half its +length, and sew up the side-seams, leaving 1½ nail from the top on each +side, to form the arm-holes, which are neatly herring-boned round. The +top is hollowed thus: leave about 1¼ nail on each folded side for the +shoulders, and hollow down to 1½ nail in front, for the bosom, and to 1 +nail behind, for the back. Herring-bone flatly all round, and the vest +is completed. + + +CHILD’S DAY VEST. + +PLATE 8. FIG. 23, 24. + +Delicate children are often recommended to wear flannel shirts or vests +next their skin. They should be of the finest flannel, with plenty of +nap, which should be next the skin. These are cut much in the same +shape as babies’ second shirts (see Plate 2, Fig. 30), excepting that +the back is hollowed out, and it has no sleeves. Two shirts might be +cut in the width, of 8 or 10 nails long. When folded in two, and sewed +up at the seams, leaving 1½ nail for the arm-hole, the front should +be cut. Leave 1¼ nail in each folded side for the shoulders, cut down +nearly straight to 1½ nail for a front flap, and slope down behind to +the same depth. + + +BATHING GOWN. + +PLATE 8. FIG. 25. + +Bathing gowns are made of blue or white flannel, stuff, calimanco, or +blue linen. As it is especially desirable that the water should have +free access to the person, and yet that the dress should not cling to, +or weigh down the bather, stuff or calimanco are preferred to most +other materials: the dark coloured gowns are the best for several +reasons, but chiefly because they do not shew the figure, and make the +bather less conspicuous than she would be in a white dress. + +As the width of the materials, of which a bathing gown is made, varies, +it is impossible to say of how many breadths it should consist. The +width at the bottom, when the gown is doubled, should be about 15 +nails: fold it like a pinafore, slope 3½ nails for the shoulders, cut +or open slits of 3½ nails long for the arm-holes; set in plain sleeves +4½ nails long, 3½ nails wide, and make a slit in front 5 nails long. + +In making up, delicacy is the great object to be attended to. Hem +the gown at the bottom, gather it into a band at the top, and run in +strings; hem the opening and the bottom of the sleeves, and put in +strings. A broad band should be sewed in about half a yard from the +top, to button round the waist. + + +WOMEN’S CAPS. + +Women’s caps are generally made of checked, spotted, clear, or twilled +muslin, widow’s lawn, and if for night-caps for the poor, sometimes of +soft fine calico. The borders are of corded, cambric, jaconet, or clear +muslin, and are sometimes, for ladies’ caps, edged with narrow lace, or +are made entirely of hemmed net. + + +WOMAN’S DAY OR NIGHT-CAP. + +PLATE 9. FIG. 1, 2 + +This is a favourite shape for a day-cap among the poor. + + +SCALE. + + +-------------------------------------------------------+---------+ + | |Yds. nls.| + |Width of checked muslin | 1½ 0 | + |Width of crown to cap, four in the width of material, | 6 | + | or, | | + |Length of crown down the selvage | 6½ | + |Width of puffing or head-piece, twenty-four in width | | + | of material, or, | 1 | + |Length of ditto down the selvage | 14 | + |Width of bands to confine the puffing, 48 in the width,| ½ | + | or, | | + |Length of bands down the selvage | 7 | + |Width of strings, forty-eight in the breadth | ½ | + |Length of strings down the selvage | 7 | + |Quantity of material for one cap | 14 | + |Quantity of material for twenty-four | 4 3 | + |Length of bordering to each, three breadths of | 16 | + |Depth of bordering down the selvage | 1¼ | + +-------------------------------------------------------+---------+ + +Observe, that in the Plates the letter D always stands for the doubled +part of the muslin. + +In cutting out these caps, it is by far the most economical to cut out +24 at a time, as, if half that number is cut, half the width of the +length of cloth from which the puffing is cut, is wasted, whereas the +24 exactly fit in. + +The crown must be rounded off at the top, for which purpose, double it +in half its width, and at 2 nails from the top corner each way, round, +or slope off the piece from A to B (see Plate 9, Fig. 1). + +The cap is made up as follows:— + +Double the bands in two, and turn down the edges as if for sewing. Hem +the crown-piece with a very narrow hem up each side, to the distance of +half a nail, and sew it firmly to each end of one of the bands; after +which, whip and stroke evenly the remaining part of the crown, and sew +it to the rest of the band in the middle. To the other side of the +band, full on the head-piece or puffing, which is afterwards confined +on the other side by being whipped and sewed to the second band. The +double border is sewed on in front, and a single one behind, where +previously there has been a pretty deep hem made, to admit of strings +to draw behind. These strings are sewed into the cap, each at the +opposite end of the hem to that on which it comes out. The strings are +hemmed at the end, being either pointed or rounded, according to taste. +Some ladies prefer their being 1 nail wide and rounded at the end, with +a narrow frill or edging sewed on to the distance of 3 or 4 nails round +the ends. + + +A VERY NEAT NIGHT-CAP. + +PLATE 9. FIG. 3, 4, 5, 6. + +This, when made of checked muslin, with a border of corded muslin, +has a very pretty appearance, and is particularly comfortable for a +night-cap, as it sets close to the head. + +[Illustration: PLATE 9 + +Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 11 Fig 12 Fig 17 + +Fig 3 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 18 + +Fig 28 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 19 + +Fig 4 Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 20 Fig 21 Fig 24 + +Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 25 + +Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 26] + +SCALE. + + +-----------------------------------------------------+-----------+ + | | Yds. nls. | + |Best width of material | 18 | + |Length of head-piece down the selvage | 14 | + |Width of ditto | 4½ | + |Length of horse-shoe down the selvage | 3½ | + |Width of ditto | 2½ | + |Length of strings down the selvage | 7 | + |Width of ditto | ½ | + |Quantity of material for eight | 2 3 | + |Quantity of bordering, 3 breadths of muslin in width | 16 | + |Depth of ditto | 1¼ | + +-----------------------------------------------------+-----------+ + +The most economical number of caps of this pattern to cut at once, is +eight, and should be done as follows, to prevent waste (see Fig. 3). +Tear off two lengths of 14 nails, which, when torn each in four, will +form the eight head-pieces. The horse-shoe crowns must be cut in two +rows deep, four in each row, of 2½ nails wide, which will require 10 +nails of the breadth, leaving a piece 8 nails wide and 7 nails long. +This piece will cut the eight pairs of strings, which are each half +a nail wide, and 7 nails long. After cutting out the cap, shape the +head-pieces according to Fig. 4 in the Plate, by which it will be seen +that 1¼ nail is taken off in a direct line from A to B. The piece for +the horse-shoe crown must be folded, and rounded carefully at the top, +and then sloped off in a direct line, thus cutting off half a nail from +each side. + +In making up the cap, place the straight part of the head-piece in +front, and put two runners, besides hem, at equal distances from +each other in front, say ¾ of a nail. Whip the back neatly, and +after hemming the horse-shoe crown, sew the head-piece firmly to it. +Some people hem a cord round the horse-shoe which gives it a greater +firmness, and looks like a piping when the head-piece is sewed in, as +it ought to be, to the bottom, instead of the top of the hem. A hem is +made at the bottom of the cap for a string to draw. Double borders in +front, a single one behind, and the strings sewed on, complete the cap. + + +A YOUNG SERVANT’S NEAT DAY-CAP. + +PLATE 9. FIG. 7, 8. + +This shape is generally made of clear muslin, widow’s lawn, or jaconet, +and is particularly adapted for girls on first going to service, from +its neat simplicity. + +SCALE. + + +----------------------------------------------+----------+ + | | Nails. | + |Best width of material | 16 or 24 | + |Width of cap | 8 | + |Length down the selvage | 5 | + |Quantity required for four caps, if yard wide | 10 | + +----------------------------------------------+----------+ + +The cap is folded in half the width, and cut according to Fig. 7. The +side marked D is the doubled part. Mark on the opposite side 2 nails +from the top, E, and slope or hollow out a piece from E to H very +gradually, letting the greater width of the piece thus hollowed out not +exceed half a nail. + +Next slope off gradually from H to L at the distance of ½ a nail from +the bottom; after which, cut the straight line E K, which is 1 nail in +length, the letter K being situated about ¾ of a nail from the side +and 1¼ from the top, and then slope gradually to M. In making up the +cap, sew from E to K, and gather in the top from K to M, as in Fig. 8. +A single or double border is put in front. This is a small size. + +Fig. 18, 19, 27, and 28 are different shaped strings for caps. + + +ANOTHER NEAT CAP FOR SERVANTS. + +PLATE 9. FIG. 9, 10. + +This shape is particularly liked by the poor, from the ease with which +it is made up and washed, as, upon undrawing the string, it opens +readily at the top, and lies quite flat to be ironed. + +As the shape is peculiar, if many are to be cut at once, it would be +the least wasteful plan to cut out on a doubled piece of paper, the +pattern of the cap, according to Fig. 9; open it out and lay it on +the material in such directions as to cut to most advantage. If only +one is to be cut, procure a piece of muslin 8 nails wide and 5½ nails +long; which, when folded evenly in half its width, shape as follows, +according to the Plate. The side marked D is the doubled part; from E +at the bottom to F is 2¼ nails. From the top, G to H, measure 2¼ nails, +and cut off in a sloping line from I, at the top of the doubled corner, +to H, again cut from H to F, after which cut off from F to about ½ a +nail above E, and then the shape of the cap is formed. + +Strings of the usual size, ½ nail wide and 7 nails long, complete the +cap. + +In making it up, sew from H to Y, and then hem all round the open part +along Y to I, and sew on a full frill of ¾ nail deep, and about 18 +nails long. Afterwards hem the front and back of the cap, put double +borders in front, and a single one behind, of 1 nail deep, and 3 +breadths of 16 or 18 nails wide. + + +ANOTHER SHAPE. + +PLATE 9. FIG. 11, 12. + +This is a very simple shape, and for washing and making up is equally +convenient with Fig 10. It answers well for a bonnet cap for ladies, in +which case it might be made of net or tulle, with a quilling or lace +border. + +SCALE. + + +-------------------------------------+----------+ + | | Yds. nls.| + |Best width of material | 1 2 | + |Width of cap without runners | 4 | + |Length of cap down the selvage | 9 | + |Sloped off at the bottom from C to A | ½ | + +-------------------------------------+----------+ + +Fold the cap in half its length, making D the doubled part (see Fig. +11). Sew and fell from A to B, to the depth of 1 nail, and hem round +the rest of the opening behind, to admit of a ribbon. Let there be two +runners besides the hem in front, to admit of tape or narrow ribbon. +The border must depend upon the purpose for which the cap is intended: +if for a night-cap, a double border in front and single behind will be +required: if for a bonnet cap, a double border or quilling only, in +front will be sufficient. It may be as well also to remark, that if it +is meant for a night-cap, the length of the cap down the selvage should +be greater, say 11 or 12 nails; and the width of the material, to cut +to the best advantage, must, of course, be either exactly the same, or +double. + + +A NEAT SCHOOL-GIRL’S CAP. + +PLATE 9. FIG. 13, 14. + +SCALE. + + +--------------------------------------------------+-----------+ + | | Yds. nls. | + |Best width of material | 1 8 | + |Length of the crown down the selvage | 6 | + |Width of the crown, or three in the breadth | 8 | + |Length of the head-piece down the selvage | 8 | + |Width of the head-piece, or twelve in the breadth | 2 | + |Quantity required for twelve caps without strings | 2 0 | + |Quantity required for twelve caps with strings | 2 12 | + +--------------------------------------------------+-----------+ + +This pattern needs little further explanation, the shape and size are +so clearly given in the Plate. The head-piece is sloped off at the +ears, beginning to cut at 1 nail above the corner, to 1 nail beyond the +corner, at the bottom of the cap. + +This cap is for school girls, and is particularly neat if of checked +muslin with corded muslin frills. + + +A FAVOURITE CAP FOR LADIES AND POOR WOMEN. + +PLATE 9. FIG. 15, 16, 17, 18, 19. + +SCALE. + + +--------------------------------------------------+---------+ + | |Yds. nls.| + |Best width of material | 1 8 | + |Width of crown-piece, three in the width | 8 | + |Length of ditto down the selvage | 6½ | + |Width of head-piece, twelve in the breadth | 2 | + |Length of ditto down the selvage | 8 | + |Length of weepers (if wanted) down the selvage | 2½ | + |Width of ditto, sixteen in the breadth | 1½ | + |Length of bands down the selvage (if wanted) | 1 14 | + |Width of ditto, twelve in the width | 2 | + |Quantity required for twelve caps, without extras | 2 2 | + |Quantity for twelve, if with weepers | 2 5 | + |Quantity for twelve, if complete with bands | 4 3 | + |Width of bordering | 1 | + |Length of ditto, two breadths width | 1 8 | + +--------------------------------------------------+---------+ + +This cap is pretty and not expensive if made without the band and +weepers, which, of course, add much to the cost; twelve is the best +number to cut out at once. They are generally made for ladies of +sprigged muslin, when the head-piece should be of strong muslin or +fine calico. The borders are cambric, muslin, or net, edged with +Valenciennes lace, or other neat trimming. The weepers are also frilled +and edged, as also the rounded ends of the band. The crown is sloped +off a little at the corner, as seen in Fig. 16, at A, which is about 2 +nails from the corner. The weepers are also shaped to a point, as in +Fig. 19 (see B). The band (Fig. 18) is gathered in at about 1½ nail +from the end, which is rounded, with edging sewed on. The middle of the +band is plaited, and sewed firmly on to the middle of the head-piece, +in front. + + +A NEAT COMFORTABLE DAY OR NIGHT-CAP. + +PLATE 9. FIG. 20. + +This is a shape particularly suitable for day-caps for young servants, +or night-caps for any age or station. If intended for day-caps, they +should be made of clear or jaconet muslin; if for night-caps, of check +or calico. + +SCALE. + + +-----------------------------------------------------+----------+ + | | Yds. nls.| + |Best width of material | 1 0 | + |Length of head-piece down the selvage | 8 | + |Width of ditto, or four in the width | 4 | + |Length of crown down the selvage | 6 | + |Width of ditto, or four in the width | 4 | + |Quantity required for four caps without strings | 14 | + |Quantity required for twelve caps without strings | 2 10 | + +-----------------------------------------------------+----------+ + | ⁂ Cap strings, for any number of caps not exceeding sixteen, | + | require seven additional nails, as sixteen pairs exactly cut in| + | the width, so that sixteen caps would he the most economical | + | number to cut. | + +----------------------------------------------------------------+ + +The head-piece is a little sloped off at the ear from A to B, and +is made up double, so as to be only 2 nails deep, when the cap is +completed. + + +ANOTHER CAP. + +PLATE 9. FIG. 21. + +This shape is very suitable for a servant’s day or bonnet cap; it is +simple and pretty in appearance, and not expensive. + +SCALE. + + +-----------------------------------------------+----------+ + | | Yds. nls.| + |Best width of material | 1½ 0 | + |Length of crown down the selvage | 7 | + |Width of ditto, or four in the width | 6 | + |Length of band down the selvage | 8 | + |Width of band[1] | 1 | + |Quantity required for twelve caps with strings | 1 13 | + +-----------------------------------------------+----------+ + +[1] The remainder of the breadth from which the bands are cut will make +strings. + +In making it up, the band is doubled in half, the crown whipped and +sewed to it, leaving it plain from A to B, for the space of 1¾ nail. A +double border is sewn on in front. + + +AN OLD WOMAN’S CAP. + +PLATE 9. FIG. 22, 23. + +This shape is generally preferred by old women, as it sets comfortably +over the ears. + +SCALE. + + +--------------------------------------------------------+----------+ + | |Yds. nls.| + |Best width of material | 21 | + |Length of head-piece down the selvage | 7 | + |Width of ditto, or twelve in the breadth | 1¾ | + |Length of crown down the selvage | 9 | + |Width of ditto at the widest part, or three in the width| 7 | + |Width of ditto when sloped off at the bottom | 5 | + |Quantity required for twelve caps without strings | 2 11 | + |Additional quantity for strings | 7 | + +--------------------------------------------------------+----------+ + +It is almost impossible to cut out a number of these caps without a +little waste. + +The head-pieces, when torn off, are 7 nails long, and 1¾ wide; double +them in half their length, and then slope off from A to B, one nail. +The straight part is the front, to which a border is sewed. The crown +is next shaped, according to Fig. 23, for which purpose, double the +piece in half its width, and from the corner, B, measure 7 nails on the +side to A, and 1 nail on the bottom, to C, and cut off in a straight +line from A to C. Round off the corner at the top, from A to D. The +crown is sewed on plain for the space of 1½ nail from the bottom, and +then evenly fulled into the remainder of the head-piece. + + +A POOR WOMAN’S NIGHT-CAP. + +PLATE 9. FIG. 24, 25, 26. + +This shape is sometimes made of linen, but generally of strong calico +or check. + +SCALE. + + +-------------------------------------------------------+---------+ + | |Yds. nls.| + |Best width of material | 18 | + |Length of head-piece down the selvage | 9 | + |Width of ditto, or twelve in the breadth | 1½ | + |Size of squares in which to cut out the circular crown,| | + | or two in the breadth | 9 | + |Quantity required for twelve caps without strings | 3 15 | + |Additional quantity for twelve pair of strings | 7 | + +-------------------------------------------------------+---------+ + +The head-piece is sloped off, as in Fig. 24, from A, which is 1½ nail +above the corner, B, to C. + +The crown, after being rounded, is evenly fulled into the head-piece, +which latter is sewed neatly together behind, at the opening, D C. + + +ANOTHER CAP. + +PLATE 9. FIG. 27, 28. + +This is a pretty shape for almost any purpose, and in any thin +material; it is cut out in front very much in the same manner that a +baby’s cap is cut behind, which will be seen if the Plate is turned +round, so as to place the doubled part, D, at the top. + +SCALE. + + +-----------------------------------------------+---------+ + | |Yds. nls.| + |Best width of material | 1 8 | + |Length of cap down the selvage | 5½ | + |Width of ditto, or three in the breadth | 8 | + |Depth from F to A | 1½ | + |Space from A to B, to be cut | 1 | + |Length to be cut from B to C | 2 | + |Then slope gradually, in a circular direction, | | + | from E to C | | + +-----------------------------------------------+---------+ + +In making up the cap, sew neatly from A to B, and then full in the part +from E to C, evenly to the part between C and B; a hem in the front and +at the back, is next made for a ribbon or tape, and a small bow, either +of the same material (see Fig. 17), or white or coloured ribbon may be +put at B (Fig. 28). + + +BATHING CAP. + +These are made of oil-silk, and are worn, when bathing, by ladies who +have long hair. Cut a piece of oil-silk, 4 nails long and 8 nails wide; +double it so as to make a square; let the doubled part be the back of +the cap, and slope off the corner at the top, towards the back, in a +curve, so as to shape it to the form of the back of the head. Sew up +along the top of the bathing cap, binding it with tape at the seam, +both at the top and in the front. Lay on a tape behind to form a hem, +making oylet-holes at the ears, and passing a string through each +oylet-hole, which is fastened down at the opposite side; these strings +draw up the cap, when worn, to the size required. + +It is advisable, however, for those who have not long hair, to bathe in +plain linen caps, so as to admit the water without the sand or grit, +and thus the bather, unless prohibited on account of health, enjoys all +the benefit of the shock without injuring the hair. + +These caps are often worn by children when the head is shaved, if +subject to diseases in the head, as ring-worm, scald-head, &c. + + +DRESSING-GOWNS. + +PLATE 10. + +Dressing-gowns are generally made of warm materials, for the winter, as +flannels, either printed or plain, merino, shawl, either the real or +imitation, and for gentlemen, of cloth or jean. For summer, they are of +dimity, calico, twilled muslin, and sometimes, though rarely, of silk. +There are various ways of making them; only a few of the most approved +shapes will be here mentioned. + + +PLATE 10. FIG. 1. + +A PLAIN USEFUL SHAPE, ESPECIALLY FOR MEN. + +This gown is made with a deep hem turned up, and a strong piping at the +top of it. It is divided into four, and the arm-holes left in the two +front seams, sloping the flannel 1 nail deep, and 2½ nails long, for +the shoulders. The neck-gusset is put in double, and the shoulder-strap +laid over it. The gown must be neatly plaited behind and in front, set +firmly into the double collar, and stitched with strong thread near +the edge. Some people pipe every seam of a dressing-gown with white +or coloured muslin, linen, or glazed calico. The back is drawn up by +means of a string-case, over which a band should button. A large button +is put on the band, and on the collar, and the button-holes should be +very firmly sewed round, either with tape or with button-hole stitch. +After putting in the sleeves, run or back-stitch the plaits firmly down +again, at about ¼ nail below the gathering, to make them lie flat. + +[Illustration: PLATE 10. + +Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 + +Fig 4 Fig 5A Fig 5B Fig 6 + +Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 10 Fig 11 Fig 12 + +Fig 9 Fig 13 Fig 14 + +Fig 15 Fig 16 + +Fig 20 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 18 Fig 17 + +Fig 19 Fig 21 Fig 24 Fig 25 Fig 26 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 29] + +SCALE. + + +----------------------------------+---------+---------+-----------+ + | —————————— | Man’s | Woman’s | Girl’s | + | | size. | size. |large size.| + +----------------------------------+---------+---------+-----------+ + | |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.|Yds. nls. | + |Width of flannel | 14 | 14 | 14 | + |Quantity required for one |10 5 | 8 10 | 6 0 | + |Length of skirts | 2 0 | 1¾ 0 | 1¼ 0 | + |Number of breadths | 4 0 | 4 0 | 4 0 | + |Length of sleeve down the selvage | 12 | 10 | 8 | + |Width of ditto | 9 | 8 | 7 | + |Length of shoulder-strap | 4½ | 4 | 3½ | + |Width of ditto | 1½ | 1½ | 1 | + |Size of double neck-gusset | 2½ | 2 | 2 | + |Size of sleeve-gusset | 3 | 3 | 2½ | + |Width of collar | 5 | 6 | 4 | + |Length down the selvage | 10 | 8 | 8 | + |Width of wristband | 2½ | 2 | 2 | + |Length of ditto down the selvage | 4½ | 4 | 4 | + |Width of band | 2½ | 2 | 2 | + |Length of ditto down the selvage | 20 | 12 | 12 | + |Space to cut for the shoulders | 2½ | 2 | 2 | + |Depth for the shoulders to slope | 1 | 1 | ¾ | + +----------------------------------+---------+---------+-----------+ + + +PLATE 10. FIG. 2. + +This figure represents a dressing-gown made of dimity. A deep hem of +3 or 4 nails is made at the bottom, insertion-work is sewed up the +fronts, and round the cape, collar, and wrists, at the edge of the work +a frill is put on. The gown is fulled in evenly to the shoulder-strap +and neck-gusset at the top, and may be confined or not, at the waist +behind, according to pleasure. The front is generally left unconfined, +so that the band alone arranges it in folds. + + +FIG. 2, 3. + +SCALE. + + +-----------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+ + | —————————— | Woman’s | Woman’s | + | |large size.|small size.| + +-----------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+ + | |Yds. nls. |Yds. nls. | + |Width of material | 14 | 14 | + |Number of breadths | 3 breadths| 3 breadths| + |The one breadth crossed off at the top | 5 | 5½ | + |Length of breadths | 1¾ 0 |1½ 0 | + |Length of shoulder-strap | 3¼ | 3¼ | + |Width of ditto | 1½ | 1½ | + |Length of neck-band or case | 10 | 9 | + |Space for shoulder | 3½ | 3½ | + |Length of arm-hole | 3 | 2½ | + |Arm-hole curved into the cloth | 1¼ | 1 | + |Length of waist | 5 | 4½ | + |Length of string-case | 10 | 8 | + |Sleeve cut according to Plate 12, |Fig. 5 & 6 |Fig. 5 & 6 | + | Fig. 5 and 6 | | | + |Collar cut according to Plate 13, Fig. 7 | Fig. 7 | Fig. 7 | + |Cape cut according to Plate 13, Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 | + +-----------------------------------------+-----------+-----------+ + + +PLATE 10. FIG. 3. + +This gown, made of flannel, either plain or printed, is plaited in +small regular folds at the neck, where a string-case of muslin or +white ribbon is put for a string to pass through. The gown is again +plaited in the same folds at the waist, in two rows, to which another +string-case is sewed all round the waist. A deep hem is made at the +bottom, and turned up with a piping of white; or if it is a printed +flannel, of some coloured glazed calico or muslin; the ribbons in front +are the same colour, and a flannel band is piped with it, as well as +the wristbands and every seam on the shoulders, round the sleeves, &c. +The sleeves should be stitched down about 1 nail below the shoulder, to +make the fulness lie close and flat. If made of printed flannel, it is +useful to wear at the sea-side, as a walking dress, to and from bathing. + + +CLOAK DRESSING-GOWN. + +PLATE 10. FIG. 4. + +This is a comfortable simple pattern; it can be made either of flannel +or lighter material, and is equally suitable for men, women, and +children; it is very convenient for the latter when taken out of a +bath, or for sitting up in bed. + +SCALE. + + +-----------------------------+---------+---------+---------------+ + | —————————— | Man. | Woman. |Girl of 16 yrs.| + +-----------------------------+---------+---------+---------------+ + | |Yds. nls.|Yds. nls.| Yds. nls. | + |Length of skirt |2 0 |1½ 0 | 1¼ 0 | + |Number of breadths |4 0 |4 0 | 4 0 | + |Space for shoulder | 2 | 1 | 1 | + |Depth of arm-holes | 5 | 4 | 3½ | + |Length of string-case | 12 | 10 | 9 | + |Length of band | 16 | 14 | 12 | + |Shoulder-piece (see Plate 13)| Fig. 1 | Fig. 1 | Fig. 1 | + |Collar (see Plate 13) | Fig. 7 | Fig. 7 | Fig. 7 | + |Cape (see Plate 13) | Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 | + |Sleeves (see Plate 12) | Fig. 16 | Fig. 16 | Fig. 16 | + | | | | | + +-----------------------------+---------+---------+---------------+ + | —————————— | Girl of 10 yrs. |Child of 5 yrs.| + +-----------------------------+-------------------+---------------+ + | | Yds. nls. | Yds. nls. | + |Length of skirt | 1¼ 0 | 1½ 0 | + |Number of breadths | 3 0 | 3 0 | + |Space for shoulder | ¾ | ¾ | + |Depth of arm-holes | 3½ | 3 | + |Length of string-case | 8 | 7 | + |Length of band | 10 | 8 | + |Shoulder-piece (see Plate 13)| Fig. 4 | Fig. 4 | + |Collar (see Plate 13) | Fig. 31 | Fig. 13 | + |Cape (see Plate 13) | Fig. 6 | Fig. 6 | + |Sleeves (see Plate 12) | Fig. 16 | Fig. 16 | + | | cut smaller | cut smaller | + +-----------------------------+-------------------+---------------+ + +After the seams have been herring-boned up, the cloak is folded in +four, to find the shoulders, which are cut in a gentle slope to the +proper width, and sewed up. The arm-holes having been left, the sleeves +are next put in, after which, the gown is fulled evenly into the double +shoulder-piece; the collar and cape are next put on; the hem at the +bottom should be deep, and turned up with a flannel or tape piping; +down the sides and round the cape, collar, &c., should be bound with +flannel binding, to give a finish. Some persons omit the sleeves, +having merely slits for the arms. + + +A DRESSING JACKET. + +PLATE 10. FIG. 5, 6. + +Some persons merely wear a little flannel, calico, or twilled muslin +dressing jacket, and as it is usually made to fit the figure, the +breadths are much gored; for the purpose, therefore, of better +explaining the shape, a figure is made of the breadth when cut out. +Fig. 5 A, is half of the back breadth, which is doubled in two, and +Fig. 5 B is the whole of one of the front breadths. + +SCALE. + + +----------------------+----------+----------+----------+---------+ + | | Woman’s | Woman’s | Girl’s | Girl’s | + | ———————— | large | small | large | small | + | | size. | size. | size. | size. | + +----------------------+----------+----------+----------+---------+ + |Number of breadths | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | + |Width of material |12 nls. |11 nls. |11 nls. |11 nls.| + |Length of each breadth|14 — |12 — |10 — | 8 — | + |Length of sleeve |12 — |10 — | 8 — | 8 — | + |Width of ditto |10 — | 8 — | 8 — | 8 — | + |Length of collar | 8 — | 6½ — | 6 — | 5½ — | + |Width of ditto | 3 — | 3 — | 2 — | 2 — | + |Size of neck-gusset | 2 — | 1¾ — | 1½ — | 1¼ — | + |Length of arm-hole | 4 — | 4 — | 3½ — | 3 — | + |Length of string-case | 4 — | 3½ — | 3½ — | 3 — | + |Space for shoulder | 3¾ — | 3½ — | 3 — | 2½ — | + |Length of skirt-gusset| 4 — | 3 — | 3 — | 2½ — | + |Breadth of ditto | 2 — | 1½ — | 1½ — | 1½ — | + +----------------------+----------+----------+----------+---------+ + +FIG. 5 A. + +Or half the back of the jacket when cut out, supposing the breadth to +be folded exactly in two. + +Let A L be the folded side. + +SCALE. + + +---------------------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + +---------------------------+-------+ + | Space from A to B | 5½ | + | Do. do. B to C | 2½ | + | Do. do. C to D | 3½ | + | Do. do. D to E | 1¼ | + | Do. do. D to F | 2½ | + | Do. do. F to G | ¾ | + | Do. do. F to H | 3 | + | Do. do. H to I | 1½ | + | Do. do. H to J | ½ | + | Do. do. J to K | 3 | + | Do. do. K to L | 2½ | + +---------------------------+-------+ + +FIG. 5 B. + +Or the whole of one of the front breadths. + +SCALE. + + +--------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + +--------------------+--------+ + | Space from A to B | 4 | + | Do. do. B to C | 4½ | + | Do. do. C to D | 1 | + | Do. do. C to E | 2½ | + | Do. do. E to F | 2¾ | + | Do. do. E to G | 1 | + | Do. do. G to H | 2¾ | + | Do. do. H to I | 2¼ | + | Do. do. I to J | 6 | + | Do. do. J to K | 12 | + +--------------------+--------+ + +In making up this jacket, sew the 3 breadths together, putting in at +the bottom two gussets or triangular pieces. Make a narrow hem at the +bottom, sew up the shoulders, and put in the sleeves. Set the back +breadth plainly into the collar, but full it at each end into the neck +gusset, and also in front. Put the string-case about a nail lower than +the arm-holes. + + +FLANNEL PETTICOATS. + +PLATE 10. FIG. 7. + +The breadths of flannel are cut according to the height of the person, +allowing a good tuck besides, to be let down after the petticoat has +been washed. + +SCALE. + + First or largest size, for a full grown woman:—3 breadths + of flannel sewed simply together; slit behind 6 nails + deep, and opened in a seam. + + Second size, for a middle sized woman, 2½ breadths; the half + is crossed off 5 nails, and the two gores are sewed, + one on each side, between the two plain breadths; slit + behind 5 nails; it is made in the middle of one of + the plain breadths. It is more economical to cut two + petticoats at once, as 5 breadths will make two, but it + requires 3 to cut one out, and there must be waste. + + Third size, for a girl of fourteen or sixteen, 2 breadths. + From 1 breadth is cut a gore of 5 nails at the top, + sloped off to 1 nail; this gore is sewed at the opposite + side of the same breadth, placing the 1 nail width at + the narrow end of the breadth. The slit behind must be + determined by doubling the petticoat exactly in half, + letting it be about 4 nails long. + + Another way of cutting this petticoat, is by crossing it + like a shift, and then putting the two broader ends to + the bottom, while the narrow part is at the top; by this + method there is no waste, and it saves both time and + trouble. + + Fourth size, 2 breadths: 1 breadth is cut in half, and 1 + half is gored 5 nails; the two gores are sewed, one on + each side of the whole breadth, in front, and the half + breadth is put in behind. The slit is torn down the + middle of the half-breadth, and is 4 nails long. + + Fifth size, for a girl eight or ten, 1½ breadth. The ½ + breadth is gored, and the whole breadth torn in half; + a gore is sewed on each side between the two half breadths. + Slit behind 3 nails deep, in the middle of the ½ breadth, + behind. + + Sixth size, for a child five or six, 1½ or 2 breadths, sewed + simply together without goring. Slit 3 nails long behind. + +Petticoats are variously made up. The most usual way is plaiting the +top in regular folds on each side, letting it be quite plain, or nearly +so, in front; it is then set firmly into a linen, calico, or jean band, +of the proper width to encircle the waist, and of 1 nail deep when +doubled and turned in. Strong tapes are sewed to the ends of the band, +and sometimes a large button-hole is made in the band, about 2 nails +from the end, through which the tape of the opposite end is drawn, +which makes the petticoat set neatly to the figure. + +Another manner is to make the petticoat up without any slit behind, +so as to be a round skirt; a band of the same size is set on quite +plainly, without plait or fulness (see Fig. 8). A runner is made +all round in the middle of the band, and two button-holes for the +strings to come out of, are made at the two sides of the petticoat +under the arm; one tape is sewed firmly down at the end of one of the +button-holes, carried all round the petticoat, and drawn out again at +the same hole; the other tape, in a similar manner, is sewed down at +the other button-hole: when the petticoat is on, and the tapes drawn +and tied in front, the fulled part lies behind, forming a sort of +bustle to set off the dress properly (see Fig. 9). + +The tops for children’s petticoats are generally a kind of stay, to +which the skirt is either sewed or fastened by means of buttons, and to +which the drawers button also. For children’s stays, see Plate 11. + + +POCKETS. + +PLATE 10. + +Pockets are either worn tied round the waist, fastened into the +petticoat, or buttoned upon the stays. When fastened into the +petticoat, they are made of the same material, otherwise of dimity, +calico, jean, twilled muslin, and sometimes of nankeen or brown jean. + +Take a doubled piece of six nails width-way, and seven nails +selvage-way when doubled, and cut according to Fig. 10. For this +purpose, double the folded piece in half width-way, and slope off +from A to B one nail. The hole in the pocket is slit down about four +nails, beginning at three-quarters of a nail from the top. Cut the +slit in the shape of an I, in order to allow of a deep hem being made +on each side. The two pieces of the pocket are run firmly together +all round, at a little distance from the edge, on the wrong side. It +is then turned inside out, the seam well flattened, and back-stitched +all round with white silk, about a quarter of an inch from the edge. +The top is set into a broad piece of tape, which is doubled over it +and forms the strings also. The slit is hemmed or back-stitched neatly +down. Sometimes an inner pocket or pockets are made for a watch, &c., +and this is done by sewing a square piece of the material inside the +pocket. The top is left open, but the sides and bottom of it are firmly +sewed down. + + +ANOTHER POCKET. + +PLATE 10. FIG. 11. + +This differs from the other merely in having the slit cut the contrary +way, so as to open width, instead of length-wise. + + +ANOTHER POCKET. + +PLATE 10. FIG. 13, 14. + +This shape is preferred by some persons, as it sets better to the +figure than the others. The straight side is worn in front; and, in +cutting out a pair of pockets, care must be taken to make them for +the right and left side. The shape is exactly the same as Fig. 10, +excepting that, after they are cut out, a gore is taken off from the +one side and sewed on to the other, by which means the one is straight +and the other, in consequence of the addition, is very much sloped. +When pockets are fastened into gowns and petticoats, they are a +little fulled at the top, and the slit of the pocket is sewed to the +corresponding slit of the petticoat. Some people cut out the slit for +the pocket differently, as they are considered to lie flatter to the +person than the usual shaped pocket. It is formed by making an oblong +bag or pocket, about eight nails long and five nails wide, and cutting +at one end, in a slanting direction, so as to take off a triangular +piece. To save waste, it is better to make two pockets at once, letting +the oblong piece be still five nails wide, when doubled, but fifteen +nails long (see Fig. 12); crease it in half its length, and then cut, +in a slanting direction, across from A to B. The part cut forms the +slit or opening to the pocket, which is sewed all round to the slit in +the petticoat or gown. + + +ANOTHER METHOD. + +This is simply a lining or square piece of calico, about ten nails +wide and eight nails deep, sewed to the inside of the petticoat quite +plainly. The petticoat has a slit of four nails deep. + + +FRILLS. + +Frills are in use when high gowns are worn, and are made of cambric, +muslin, net, lace, tulle, crape, &c. + + +A SIMPLE FRILL. + +This is merely a strip of muslin, about fourteen nails long and three +nails wide, more or less, according to pleasure. It is merely hemmed +all round, and simply plaited up, in regular folds, to the proper size. + + +A PARTICULARLY NEAT FRILL. + +PLATE 10. FIG. 15. + +This is made of net or clear muslin, and is neatly fulled to the band. +The edge, instead of being hemmed, is rolled over a bobbin to stiffen +it. The band is about half a nail wide, and doubled, and is nine nails +long. The frill on each side is fourteen nails long, and two nails +wide. A button-hole is put in the middle to fasten it to the gown, and +it ties at the ends with ribbons. + + +A CRIMPED FRILL. + +PLATE 10. FIG. 16. + +This is very suitable for young children, especially boys, and is +generally made of lawn or cambric. The frill should be double the +length of the size round the neck, and about one nail wide. A neat hem +at one edge, and the other is sewed to a band of the proper length, say +about five nails, and of half a nail in depth. These frills should be +crimped very neatly. + +PLATE 10. FIG. 17. + +This frill is to be made like Fig. 15, excepting that the muslin is +only one nail deep, and crimped in the same manner as Fig. 16. It is +very suitable for young children. + +PLATE 10. FIG. 18. + +Another and more ornamental frill, made of muslin or net, with edging +sewed on it. + +The muslin or net must be about four nails wide, and fourteen or +sixteen nails long. The frill is creased down the middle, and on each +side of the crease, at a quarter of a nail distance, it is neatly +run with a long thread, and drawn up to the proper width, forming a +puffing in the centre of the frill. This puffing is first stroked with +the needle into an even fulness, and then sewed at each side close to +the gatherings, to a band of a quarter of a nail wide only, or still +narrower, so as to raise the puffing sufficiently to look well, and yet +not too much to admit of a ribbon being drawn smoothly through it. This +ribbon ties the frill round the neck. + +PLATE 10. FIG. 19. + +This is a very simple frill, and, when well made, looks remarkably +neat. The net of which it is composed must be about two nails and a +quarter wide, creased in the middle, and finely plaited in small neat +plaits. It is then doubled, and bound on the outside down the folded +centre with a narrow ribbon, so that the two sides of the frill lie +close together, instead of being open, like Fig. 18. + + +ANOTHER FRILL. + +This kind, which is sometimes called a Ruche, is made exactly contrary +to the usual mode. The frill, instead of being run down the middle, +is joined down the sides, and confined at the joining into a ribbon, +so that the top of the frill is double; and as it is usually made of +tulle, or some rather stiff material, it stands out stiffly from the +neck. Pelerines have sometimes a double frill or Ruche, of the same +material that they are made of, sewed to them. + + +CUFFS. + +PLATE 10. + +There are various kinds of cuffs, for different purposes, of which the +most useful only are here explained. + + +TIDY CUFFS. + +PLATE 10. FIG. 20, 21. + +Tidy cuffs are much worn by persons whose employments are apt to injure +the sleeve of the gown, either by wearing it out, staining, or greasing +it. They are very valuable whilst drawing, writing, pasting, or when +in the kitchen; and in these cases are generally made of Holland or +nankeen, and when braided with dark blue, green, crimson, brown, or +any other suitable colour, with ribbons to lace up of the same, they +have a particularly neat effect. The cuff is cut out as follows (Fig. +21):—Procure a piece of Holland four nails down the selvage, and five +nails wide; double it in half its width, and slope down by the selvage +from A to D, and from B to C, cutting off half a nail in a direct +slope, so that, when open, the end, C D, is but four nails wide, while +A B is five. Turn down a deep hem along each of the sloped sides half +a nail deep, and over the stitches put a braid, with two other rows of +the same close together on the hem, leaving sufficient space between to +insert a thin whalebone to support the cuff, and keep it from wrinkling +when on the arm. The lace-holes are worked with silk the same colour as +the ribbon. Fig. 20 represents the cuff when laced up. + + +PLATE 10. FIG. 22. + +This is a neat cuff to lay on the dress, and is either made of plain +net, of lace, or of muslin, with or without edging, and sometimes of +satin ribbon. If for mourning, the net should have a broad hem. It is +gathered and sewed into a band about one nail deep, and three or three +and a half wide, according to the size of the wrist. There should be +two pearl buttons set on one end, and button-holes made to correspond. + + +PLATE 10. FIG. 23. + +This is a plain band, to be made to fit the wrist exactly, of silk, +satin, or velvet, to be laid on a thin evening sleeve. It may be one +nail broad or more. A rouleau is sometimes laid on round it, or a +narrow piping. If it is made of silk the colour of the dress, or of +white silk embroidered, it has a very pretty effect. + + +PLATE 10. FIG. 24. + +This is a dress cuff, to wear with lace or tulle sleeves, and may be +made of any rich material, with a piping of satin and an edging of +blonde or lace. The inside is sometimes embroidered in floss silk. In +cutting it out, procure a piece of paper about two nails and a half +deep, and four nails long; double it in half its length, and measure +up the side from A to C, one nail and a quarter, leaving from C to the +upper edge, J, one nail and a quarter also. Cut off the corner from E +to C, curving it a little inwards, and again, from C to A, cut off in a +direct line one quarter of a nail. Open it, and it will resemble Fig. +24 exactly. + + +PLATE 10. FIG. 25. + +This cuff resembles the preceding one, but has, in addition, a small +second cuff laid on the lower part of it, and a slit cut down from the +top to about one nail and a quarter depth from A to B. The top of the +second cuff comes just below the slit, and it is a little sloped away +at the sides. + + +PLATE 10. FIG. 26. + +A cuff worn in deep mourning, especially by widows, and made either +of clear muslin or black crape. It consists of fold lying upon fold, +and is either sewed upon the sleeve or made to slip over the hand. The +folds are four or five in number, and lie just one above the other, +each being about a quarter of a nail deep. + + +PLATE 10. FIG. 27. + +This is to be worn as a trimming or edging, below the sleeve, upon +the hand: the band buttons inside the sleeve. The frill is of muslin, +cambric, net, or lace. It should be very full, and got up in puffs, or +very finely crimped. The ends of the bands should have deep hems, in +which the button-holes are worked. The band is about three-quarters of +a nail deep, and three or three nails and a half wide. + + +PLATE 10. FIG. 28. + +This is a neat simple little cuff, and suits the collar, Plate 13, Fig. +26. It is well adapted for mourning. Cut two pieces of muslin, net, +lawn, or cambric, of two nails square, and hem each round with a broad +hem; sew the two together to the depth of about one nail; the parts +sewed together form a sort of band inside, while the others, being +unattached, fall backwards over the sleeve. + + +PLATE 10. FIG. 29. + +A simple, plain, mourning cuff, with a broad hem above and below. The +cuff to be about two nails deep, and three and a half or four nails +long, according to the size of the wrist. + + +APRONS. + +PLATE 11. + +If for common use, aprons are made of white, brown, blue, black, or +checked linen, of black stuff, calico, Holland, leather, nankeen, +print, or long cloth; if for better purposes, of cambric muslin, clear, +mulled, or jaconet muslin, silk, satinette, satin, &c. The length of +the apron is, of course, generally determined by the height of the +wearer, and the width, by that of the material, and by the purpose for +which it is intended. For working aprons, the width is generally one +breadth of a yard wide; for dress aprons, two breadths, one of which +is cut in half, and these halves put one on each side of the whole +breadth. If the material should be wide enough, one breadth, of from +fourteen to twenty nails, will answer very well. + + +DRESS APRON. + +PLATE 11. FIG. 1. + +This is made of satinette, or thick satin silk, and consists of two +breadths, one in front, and a half-breadth sewed on each side of it. +None of them are to be at all sloped. The length is regulated by the +pleasure of the wearer, and a broad hem of three-quarters of a nail +deep is made all round. The length of the band must vary according to +the size of the waist, and must be cut by Fig. L, which represents +it when doubled. The part from A to B, or that to which the apron is +fulled, is five nails and a half; from A to C is one nail and a half; +and from B to D is one full nail. The remainder of the band, from +B D, onwards to F, is determined by the size of the waist. A piece +of whalebone is stitched into the centre of the band, A C, and on +each side of it a little chain-stitch is worked, in thick silk, of +the same colour as the apron. The folds are exactly according to the +Plate, beginning within the hem, and laid evenly along until below the +whalebone, when a space is left. The chain-stitch is next worked in +two rows, parallel with the curved shape of the band, allowing little +more than a quarter of a nail between the rows. By this means the folds +are neatly confined, and it prevents the bustling effect they might +otherwise have. These folds are very small and close. The band has a +small piping below, but is plain at the top, and fastens behind with +hooks and eyes. + +[Illustration: PLATE 11 + +Fig L Fig P + +Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4 + +Fig 5 + +Fig 6 Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 9 + +Fig 10 Fig 11 Fig 12 Fig 13 + +Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 26 + +Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 19 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 24 Fig 25 + +Fig 20 Fig 21 Fig 27 Fig 28 + +Fig 29 Fig 30 Fig 32 + +Fig 31 + +Fig 33] + + +PLATE 11. FIG. 2. + +This apron is generally made of silk, but looks well also in muslin. +It requires care in the making as well as in the washing. The vandykes +are formed by turning the edge of the apron down once, all round, to +about three-quarters of a nail deep; and, after tacking it firmly down, +vandykes are neatly run, in very small stitches (Fig. 5), from the +edge of the apron to pretty near the rough edge of the silk, leaving +sufficient to turn in well afterwards:—thus, let the vandykes be run +to the depth of from A to B, leaving a small space all the way from B +to C. When finished turn each vandyke inside out, and smooth all the +wrinkles at the corners and points with a stiletto or scissors. When it +is well and evenly pulled out, turn in the rough edge and hem it neatly +down. Sometimes a little braid, or a row of chain-stitch, is put over +the stitches on the right side. The plaits are regularly laid, those +on each side being folded towards the middle. The band is frequently +lined with buckram or stiff muslin, and is made with or without piping. +Scollops are sometimes substituted for vandykes. + + +PLATE 11. FIG. 3. + +This apron is of muslin, either clear or otherwise. A broad hem is made +all round, of the proper width to admit a coloured or white ribbon of +the half or three-quarter nail breadth. Some fine work or edging may +be sewed to the hem all round. The band should be open at the ends to +admit of the ribbon that ties it being drawn out when the apron is +washed. The hem all round should also be kept open at the ends for the +same purpose, and merely tacked up when the ribbon is put in. + + +PLATE 11. FIG. 4. + +This is an apron with a broad hem all round, and a full frill of any +fine material. + + +PLATE 11. FIG. 6. + +A clear muslin apron, with a broad hem of three-quarters of a nail +deep, and a shawl bordering laid all round within the hem, either half +or three-quarters of a nail deep. This is a pretty apron for a young +person. The bordering must be taken off before the apron is washed. + + +PLATE 11. FIG. 7. + +This represents the bottom of an apron when hollowed out. It has a +simple broad hem, turned up with a piping. + + +PLATE 11. FIG. 8. + +The broad hem here is surrounded by a deep crimped frill of about a +nail broad. These aprons are generally made of jaconet or cambric +muslin, and the frill of cambric or lawn. They are very suitable for +ladies to wear in a morning when cutting out, or in the housekeeper’s +room. + + +PLATE 11. FIG. 9. + +This is a pretty evening apron, made with a broad hem, and muslin +insertion-work let in all round, inside which, coloured ribbon may or +may not be run. Edging, either of lace or worked muslin, is put on all +round. + + +APRON POCKETS. + +These vary very much, some being laid on the apron as in Fig. 3, 4, +and 6; others put on at the back, a slit being made in the apron to +correspond with the place of the pockets. These last are made as +in Fig. P, from a long double piece, which, being sewed up, is cut +diagonally or crosswise, from A to B, and forms two pockets, the part +cut being sewed to the slit of the apron. The whole length of the +narrow piece, before it is cut, is six nails, and the width, when +double, two nails. The slit in the apron is neatly hemmed, and a +trimming of ribbon or silk put round it, with a bow at the bottom, or a +fringe and tassels. + +In Fig. 3 the pocket is a piece of two nails and a half deep and five +nails wide. This piece is plaited in regular folds at the top to a +lining of only two nails and a half deep, and the same width. The +bottom is fulled nearly to a point in small folds, and the lining, +being turned in to the same shape, is sewed to it with a piping. The +pocket is then stitched firmly on to the apron, and trimmed according +to fancy. One or three small bows are put on the pocket. + +In Fig. 4 the pocket is cut in the shape of a heart, and put plainly on +the apron. It is about two nails and three-quarters wide, and two nails +and a half deep. The pocket is piped or trimmed with edging. + +In Fig. 6 the pocket is particularly neat and pretty, being made of +folds of the same material as the apron, with a coloured piping all +round it, and three bows the same colour as the piping. + + +COMMON APRONS. + +The simplest kind, and that generally worn by working men, is a yard +wide or more, hemmed at the bottom and at the top, with a string run +through to tie round the waist. It is thus worn by brewers, &c. + + +PLATE 11. FIG. 10. + +This is a simple shape, and the one most in use. It is either plaited +or gathered into the band, which is about a nail deep. These aprons +are usually worn by all servants and women while at work. Blue, check, +and brown linen are most used for scouring and cleaning; white linen, +Holland, and print, for less dirty employments. Ladies wear them of +silk or muslin, with or without pockets. + + +PLATE 11. FIG. 11. + +This is a pretty apron, often worn by girls from eight to sixteen or +eighteen years of age. The bib is made of the proper size to fit in +front, between the shoulders of the wearer, coming down in a slope to +the waist. These bibs may be plain, or they are ornamented with tucks +or folds, either upright or length-wise. The shoulder-strap may be of +the same material, or of tape or ribbon. The apron is gathered evenly, +or plaited so as to reach to A on each side, which is situated exactly +between the bottom of the bib and the shoulder-strap behind. + + +PLATE 11. FIG. 12. + +May be worn either as a common or as a pretty dress apron, according +to the material and trimming. It may be made of silk, coloured +muslin, or print. After being properly gathered into the band, two +shoulder-straps, in the form of four lappets, are cut out, either +pointed, as in A, or rounded, as in B. These lappets may be piped, and +either edged with lace or fringe, or left plain. For a full size, the +lappet is five nails along the selvage, from D to C, and one nail and +three-quarters from C to B. The two straps are sewed together at C, and +fastened with a bow of ribbon. The lappet is piped all round with a +strong cord, to make it wear well. + + +PLATE 11. FIG. 13. + +This shape is much worn by men servants, apothecaries, grocers, +&c., and is simply gathered into a band, leaving a piece of two +nails unattached to it, A B, which is hemmed at the top, and falls +negligently down. + + +A COOKING APRON. + +PLATE 11. FIG. 14. + +This is a neat pattern for a housekeeper, cook, or kitchen-maid. The +bib is quite plain, and pins to the gown at the corners. The size given +in the Plate is suitable for a girl, but the bib should be cut to suit +the wearer at once, and not made by guess. The apron is made of check +or strong linen. + + +A PANTRY APRON. + +PLATE 11. FIG. 15. + +A very good shape for men servants to wear when trimming lamps, +cleaning shoes and knives, &c. The apron is about a yard and a quarter +long, and it is made of strong linen or calico. The tape for the neck +should be nine or ten nails long. A pocket may be added in front. The +corners of the apron are simply turned down to the distance of five +nails and a half from the top (see A A), the letters, A A, being each +exactly five nails and a half from B. These corners are either sewed or +strongly hemmed down. + + +GENTLEMEN’S WORKSHOP APRON. + +PLATE 11. FIG. 16. + +This is very useful for gentlemen when turning, or using tools, and is +generally made of Holland or strong white or brown linen. The width is +fifteen or sixteen nails; the part for the neck four and a half, five, +or more, according to the width across the shoulders of the wearer. +The depth of this part two nails and a half or more. The straps, about +eight nails and a half long, cross each other from the neck to the +half of the shoulder part of the apron; which plan holds it up neatly +in front, and makes it set more comfortably. A pocket may be added, +according to pleasure, in front, or two at the sides. A slit in the +apron, bound round with tape, and a square piece put on behind it, +looks the neatest as a pocket. + + +SENTIMENT, FIANCÉE, OR NECK-TIE. + +PLATE 11. FIG. 17, 18. + +This is made of velvet, satin, or silk, and is worn for the purpose +of keeping the neck warm, and as a finish to the dress. It is made of +two colours, which are joined in the middle and lined with sarsenet: +the silk or other material is cut crosswise and pointed at the ends. +The sentiment is six or seven nails long from point to point, when +made up, and within one nail and a half of the point at one end, is +fastened with strong stitches or a silk ring. When the tie is worn, the +other point is passed through the ring and drawn close. Sometimes the +neck-tie is of a dark coloured silk in the middle with two coloured +ends. + + +A DRESS SCARF OR CAPRICE. + +PLATE 11. FIG. 19, 20. + +This is made of the broadest satin ribbon that can be procured, say two +nails and a half wide, and is two yards and three-quarters long. Double +the ribbon on the wrong side exactly in two, and, while so doubled, +run across the width of the ribbon in a slanting direction (Fig. 19, +A B), and when opened, the scarf will set to the form of the neck. An +edging of swansdown is sewed all round, and the ends may be either +embroidered, braided, or left plain, according to the taste of the +wearer. + + +A CACHEMIRE OR INDIANA SCARF. + +PLATE 11. FIG. 21. + +This is a kind of scarf which is easily made, and is a pretty finish to +a walking dress, or may be worn in an evening at home: it is formed of +three colours, say black, scarlet, and light blue. To make one scarf, +you will want one yard and six nails in length and four nails and a +half in width, of the black cachemire. + +Sometimes the length of the scarf will lie in the width of the +material, in which case it will be a great saving of expense. Procure +a piece of each of the other two colours, seven nails long, and of the +same width as the black, viz., four nails and a half. Find the middle +of each end of the black strip, and slope off one nail and a half from +the middle to each side (see Fig. 21, A C A D): next, slope one end of +the blue, and one end of the scarlet strip, to accord exactly with the +black strip, cutting the nail and a half from the middle to the ends. +After this, split the blue and the scarlet pieces down the middle, sew +half the blue and half the scarlet very accurately, first together, and +then to the black strip, making the points fit in as neatly as possible +to the half strips: do the same at the other end, arranging the colours +so as to be at cross corners with each other. Observe that the pieces +are sewed flatly together, and herring-boned all round on the right +side. A narrow silk gymp, one-third of a nail wide, is laid at the edge +and upon all the joinings; this gymp should be of some clear bright +colour, as yellow and deep brown or gold colour, and at the ends is a +silk fringe of blue and scarlet, to match the two half strips. + + +A SIMPLE SCARF. + +This is made of plain net or tulle, the whole width of the material, +say three-quarters of a yard, and three yards long. A broad hem is made +all round, wide enough to admit of a satin ribbon of a three-penny +breadth. + + +STAYS OR CORSETS. + +PLATE 11. + +It is impossible to give any particular patterns or sizes of stays, as +they must, of course, be cut differently, according to the figure, and +be variously supported with more or less bones or runners of cotton, +according to the age, strength, or constitution of the wearer; we +shall, therefore, confine ourselves to a few observations on the making +up: and with respect to the cutting out, it is recommended to those who +make their own stays, to purchase a pair from an experienced stay-maker +that fit perfectly well, and also a pair cut out, but not made up, so +as to be a good pattern for the home-made stays. + + +WOMEN’S STAYS. + +PLATE 11. FIG. 22. + +If for ladies, they are made of sattine, or best French jean, which is +half a yard wide, and about 20_d._ or 2_s._ per yard: if of an inferior +quality, they are made of white, brown, grey, or nankeen jean, at 8_d._ +or 10_d._ per yard, and lined with calico between the doubles. The stay +is generally lined between the two pieces of jean with union cloth or +Irish linen in every part excepting the gores. Stays are usually cut in +four parts, all of which are generally upon the cross, as this assists +materially in making them set better to the figure. Two of the pieces +reach from each side of the back, nearly to the hips, and the other two +from thence to the middle of the busk or steel. There are two gores on +each side for the bosom, and two larger ones on each side below, for +the hips. + +The necessary bones are as follows: + +A steel in the middle, which should be narrower at the top than at the +bottom, and confined in a strong wash-leather, before being put into +the stay-case. + +Two bones at the extreme ends, to prevent the holes from bursting +beyond the edge. + +We may also add, as they are in common use, a second bone down each +back, on the other side of the lace-holes. + +Bones between the front bosom gores, on each side; but these should be +very thin and elastic, and are seldom wanted unless the wearer requires +much additional support. + +Two other bones, one on each side, from about a nail below each +arm-hole to the bottom of the stay. + +A few slight rib or cross-bones are sometimes put in. + +It is as well to observe that unless particularly feeble, or otherwise +an invalid, it is most desirable to wear as few bones as possible; and +that for healthy persons, the two back bones, with the steel in front, +are quite sufficient. The casing of the steel in front is sometimes +made elastic to the depth of four nails from the top, by means of +Indian rubber runners; which adds much to the comfort of asthmatic or +delicate persons. (See Fig. 23.) + +On each side of the steel is a cotton runner, and these are also put in +various other parts of the stays, according to fancy. + + +ON MAKING UP. + +The needles used for making stays are called the _between_ needles. +Strong sewing silk, called stay-silk, is used for the best corsets, +and strong waxed cotton for the common ones. In sewing the seams, take +great care to turn in the work properly, so as to have all the rough +edges within the stay: for this purpose, first turn down the outside +and inside piece of jean lying on one side of the seam, with the rough +edges and the lining prepared as if for common sewing; do the same +with the other side of the seam, placing the two seams, thus prepared, +side by side, and sew them firmly together. It will have the effect of +a double ordinary seam, when held between the finger and thumb. The +mode of sewing these four thicknesses so as to make them lie flatly +when opened, is rather peculiar. Take up with your needle, three of +the thicknesses, leaving the fourth unsewed. The next stitch, take +again three folds, leaving the other outside one unsewed: continue +alternately taking up one outside and omitting the other, letting the +stitches lie close together: when completed, open the seam, and flatten +it with the finger and thumb. + +The gores are next laid between the doubles of jean, and neatly +back-stitched all round; the narrow parts at the top being worked in +button-hole stitch. + +The bone-cases are then made, and the cotton runners back-stitched. + +The oylet or lace-holes are next worked, and after the stay-bones are +put in, the top and bottom of the stays, with the shoulder-straps, are +neatly bound with stay-binding. + +As there are many varieties in the shapes of the different parts of +stays, they will be described in detail, under their respective heads. + + +GORES. + +These are sometimes made of elastic wires, as in Fig. 23, sometimes of +Indian rubber, and sometimes of a kind of elastic twill. + + +SHOULDER-STRAPS + +Are made of the same material as the stays, and back-stitched to the +front and back of the shoulder. Sometimes they are buttoned down in the +front, which enables the wearer, by unbuttoning them, to dress her hair +in an evening with perfect ease. (See Fig. 22.) + +Others have oylet-holes to admit of bobbins, which lace them to +corresponding holes in the stays. (See Fig. 24.) + +A piece of Indian rubber or elastic wire, of about one nail in length, +is frequently sewed to the end of the strap, and this is considered the +most convenient, as it will lengthen or contract at pleasure. + + +LACE-HOLES + +Are generally worked round in button-hole stitch; sometimes tape is +laced from the outside through these holes, being drawn through every +other hole till they reach the top, and then brought down again, +drawing it round the edge, through the intermediate holes; this +preserves them from being worn. (See Fig. 26.) Others insert in every +hole a ring, called a patent lace-hole. These are very durable, but are +said to destroy the laces. + + +MODESTY-PIECE. + +To the top of the stay is sometimes attached a small modesty-piece, +which for some people is an excellent contrivance, as it makes it set +more closely and delicately in front. This extra piece is all in one, +and is the cross-way; it is carried along the whole of the front of the +stay: it is about half a nail deep over the bosom, and sloped off to +a quarter of a nail over the stay-bone; at the top of this additional +strip, which is bound all round, a bobbin is run to draw it up. When +drawn properly, this modesty lies over the bosom so as to shade it +delicately, whereas if it were cut all in one piece with the stay +it would make it higher, but it would stand out, and not answer the +desired end. (See Fig. 25.) + + +NURSING STAYS. + +It is essential to open the front of nursing stays, so as to give the +mother the greatest ease while feeding her infant; for this purpose, +care should be taken that no stay-bones or hard buttons should come in +contact with the child’s face: the two or three best modes of opening +them are the following: + +Leave open that side of the bosom gore which is next to the +shoulder-strap, to the depth of a full nail and a half; neatly bind +the side of the gore, and after back-stitching the opposite side, sew +on very firmly two buttons, one at the top and the other lower down. +To the gore is attached two loops, by which it can be buttoned or +unbuttoned at pleasure. (See Fig. 24.) + +Another mode is that of leaving open the outer sides of those gores +nearest the steel or middle of the stays. + +These sides, and the parts with which they accord, have oylet-holes +worked down them, exactly opposite to each other. Through each +oylet-hole in the gore, pass a bobbin of about two nails and a quarter +long, which is fastened at one end firmly to the wrong side, just +behind the oylet-hole. The other end of each bobbin is drawn across to +the inner side of the corresponding hole, and pulled through. By this +arrangement all the ends of the bobbins lace up the whole gore. The +bobbins are sewed together at the ends, forming a loop to attach it to +a button on each side of the steel (see Fig. 23, A B). + +These bobbins should be carefully cut and joined, so as to pull the +gores properly in their places. When it is unbuttoned the whole front +lets down comfortably. It is advisable to sew a little fold or oblong +piece to the stay on the inside, which forms a flap to lie between the +shift and the opening, as a guard from cold. + + +MEN’S STAYS, OR BELTS. + +PLATE 11. FIG. 27, 28. + +These are worn by gentlemen in the army, hunters, or by those using +violent exercise. + +They are made of strong jean, duck, leather, or webbing. + +Sometimes the stay is merely a strip or belt, as Fig. 28; at others it +is a little shaped or peaked, as Fig. 27. Towards the ends is sewed a +piece of elastic work (see Fig. 28 E). Runners of cotton are made in +various places to strengthen the whole. Long webbing straps are sewed +three on each end. These straps are sewed on with pieces of leather +over them, and are about three nails deep. The length is, of course, +determined by the size of the wearer. + + +BELT FOR A HUNTER OR COACHMAN. + +This is often merely a simple leather belt, with three tongues and +buckles. + + +CHILD’S LITTLE STAY. + +PLATE 11. FIG. 33. + +This is made of fine jean, doubled, of three nails depth, and of the +width required by the child. Cord runners are made in front, and at the +backs, and buttons are put on, before and behind, for the drawers and +flannels to be attached to. + + +AN OLDER CHILD’S STAY. + +PLATE 11. FIG. 29. + +This is formed of double jean, and may be lined between with Irish +linen. If it is preferred, all the runners may have cotton drawn +through them, so as to admit of no bones. + + +BUSTLES. + +PLATE 11. FIG. 30, 32. + +Bustles are worn by those whose shape requires something to set off +the skirt of the gown. They should not be too large, or they look +indelicate, and in bad taste. They are made of jean, strong calico, and +sometimes of glazed calico. + +Fig. 30 represents a simple bustle of strong calico. It is composed of +one piece the width of the calico, say a yard, and eight nails deep. +This piece is doubled in two, so as to make two flounces, the one four +nails and a half long, and the other three and a half. At one nail from +the doubled top make a narrow case to admit of tapes. The bottoms of +the flounces are hemmed with a very thick cord in them. When worn, the +bustle is turned inside out, by which means the frill falls between the +two flounces (see Fig. 32). + +Fig. 31 is merely two flounces of jean, one four nails deep and the +other three nails, gathered into a tape at the top and vandyked at the +bottom. + +Some persons wear down bustles (see Fig. 33), which are made of +glazed lining muslin. A flat half circle or oval is cut out, about +two nails and a half wide by two nails deep, and another piece, of +an oblong shape, rounded at the corners, much longer and deeper, say +three-quarters of a yard long by four nails and a half deep, is fulled +into the smaller piece on one side, and into a tape on the other or +top, thus making a bag to contain the down, which should be either +swan’s or the best goose down. + + +VEILS. + +The subject of veils is one that may soon be dismissed, as a few words +on the materials of which they are composed, together with the usual +sizes, comprises all that can be said upon them. + +Veils for ordinary wear may be of a kind of soft tulle, made on +purpose, of net, gauze, or crape. The size for a grown-up person is +from thirteen nails to a yard long, and about twenty nails wide; for +a child, eleven nails long, and the width is determined by that of +the material. Demi-voiles are about four nails deep, and the width is +regulated by that of the bonnet to which they are attached. + +A pretty way of making a net or tulle veil is by hemming a satin ribbon +half a nail deep all round it, either the same colour, or, if the veil +is white, of some pale shade to suit the bonnet or the dress. This, +by strengthening the edges, makes the veil wear better than it would +otherwise do. + +A crape or gauze veil is simply hemmed all round, the hem being deeper +at the bottom to give it a little weight. A ribbon is run in at the top. + +Mourning veils are of black crape. They should be made of what is +termed the best, or jet black crape, as the blue-black soon wears +whitish, and looks shabby. The other, though the most expensive at +first, is the best economy in the end. They are made quite plainly, +with a broad hem all round—say three-quarters of a nail deep. + +Demi-voiles, when not of blonde, Chantilly, or worked lace, are of +tulle, with ribbon run in. They should be set on the bonnet slightly, +fulled all round the brim, but much more so at the ears, to make +them hang well. A demi-voile should also be a little taken up at the +ears, so as not to be the full depth, which is apt to give a slovenly +appearance. + +Riding veils are much shorter than any other kind except demi-voiles, +and sufficiently wide to draw nearly all round the hat. They are made +either of black lace, worked on purpose, or of brown or green crape. +It is a good plan to run a string through a riding-veil, both at the +top and bottom, taking care that the ribbon at the bottom is only just +as long as the veil is wide, so that it is not seen when not in use. +The advantage of this second string is, that in hot weather, and under +a glaring sun, the wearer may tie both ribbons round her hat, thus +forming a double veil for the protection of her eyes, whilst the lower +part of the face has all the benefit of the cool air. + + +SLEEVES. + +PLATE 12. + +Sleeves should, when it is possible, be cut upon the cross; for which +purpose a corner of the material should be turned up, until the doubled +part, which is the cross way, is large enough to admit of the length +and width of the sleeve. + +Silk is sometimes too narrow for a very large sleeve to be made without +joining, when care should be taken to join together two selvages. The +joinings must be so contrived as to set either under, or at the back of +the sleeves. + +[Illustration: Plate 12. + +Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 4 Fig. 5 Fig. 6 Fig. 7 + +Fig. 9 Fig. 10 Fig. 11 Fig. 12 Fig. 13 Fig. 14 Fig. 8 + +Fig. 15 Fig. 16 Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Fig. 19 Fig. 20 Fig. 21 + +Fig. 22 Fig. 23 Fig. 24 Fig. 25 Fig. 26 Fig. 27 Fig. 28 Fig. 29 + +Fig. 30 Fig. 31 Fig. 32 Fig. 33 Fig. 34 Fig. 35] + +In order to make sleeves set well, they are hollowed out, as it is +called, which is nothing more than cutting away a little of the front, +at the top, so as to make it less deep than the back, observing always +that it is straight in the front, the crosswise part of the sleeve +falling behind. This is of great importance, as the set of the sleeve +depends upon it. Of course attention must be paid to make them in pairs. + +There are so many ways of finishing sleeves, and so many fancies +about them, that to describe them all would be equally impossible and +useless. A few rows of biassing, both at the top and bottom, or small +plaits, confined once or twice by narrow bands, or by back-stitching, +give a very neat appearance when the sleeve is at all a full one. + +For lining sleeves, see the description in Chapter I. + + +A CHILD’S FIRST SLEEVE. + +PLATE 12. FIG. 1, 2. + +This is a neat shape for a child of a year old, before which time their +sleeves are generally cut straight, and merely sloped down to the cuff. + +Turn up your material seven nails, and, after cutting a pattern +according to the figure, lay it on the piece and cut by it. + +The pattern is cut as follows (see Fig. 2):—Take half a square of seven +nails each way, and from A to B measure two nails; the same from A to +H, and mark across, letting the wrist be one nail and three-quarters +wide. From B to C is four nails, between which, measure downwards, one +nail and a half, and curve from B, by L, to C, which is one nail from +D. Measure next to E, three nails, and curve from C to E, and again +from E to G, which is two nails from F. + +The part marked D in all the sleeves is double. When made up it +resembles Fig. 1. + + +AN OLDER CHILD’S SLEEVE. + +PLATE 12. FIG. 3, 4. + +Turn up seven nails crosswise, and cut as follows, see Fig. 4:— + +SCALE. + + +-------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + | From A to B | 1¾ | + | From A to C | 1½ | + +-------------+-------+ + +Cut across one nail and a quarter for the wrist. + +SCALE. + + +----------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + | From A to E is | 6 | + | From E to F | 1 | + +----------------+-------+ + +Slope gradually from B to F. + +SCALE. + + +-------------------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + | From the corner, K to G | 3½ | + | From the corner, I to H | 1½ | + +-------------------------+-------+ + +Slope from F to G, and from G to H. + +In making up Fig. 3, after joining the seams, and hemming or piping +it at the bottom, gather it into the arm-hole at the top, and make a +string-case just above the elbow to confine it as in the Plate. If +preferred, it may be gathered above the elbow, and a narrow band put on. + + +LONG SLEEVE FOR A GROWN-UP PERSON. + +PLATE 12. FIG. 5, 6. + +This is cut as follows:—Turn up your paper pattern, or material, nine +nails upon the cross (see Fig. 6). + +SCALE. + + +----------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + | From A to B is | 2 | + | From A to J is | 2 | + +----------------+-------+ + +Cut straight from J to B for the wrist. + +SCALE. + + +----------------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + | From B to C | 3 | + | From C to E | 3 | + | From E to the corner | 1 | + +----------------------+-------+ + +Cut straight from B to K, which is two nails below C. Cut in a sweep +from K to the point, O, which is a quarter of a nail below E. + +SCALE. + + +----------------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + | From the corner to F | 3½ | + | From F to G | 2½ | + | From G to H | 3 | + | From H to I | 2 | + +----------------------+-------+ + +Cut in a sweep from O to F, and from G to I. + +The making up is perfectly simple. It is for a small-sized person. + + +THE CIRCULAR LONG SLEEVE. + +PLATE 12. FIG. 7, 8. + +This takes rather more of the material than the other shapes, but it is +so easily cut out, and looks so well when made up, that it is allowed a +place here. + +For the full size it is a perfect circle, in a square of about fifteen +nails. + +After the circle is formed, double it in half (see Fig. 8); measure +at A B a sufficient width to admit of the wrist, and slit up, in a +slightly curving line, from B to C for about four nails, to form the +arm of the sleeve. A little of the circle, from E towards B, is then +sloped off to form the hollowing. + +When made up, this part, E, is all taken up and gathered into the +shoulder-strap. It is considered to hang particularly well, falling +over the tight part of the sleeve (see Fig. 7.) + + +A PLAIN LONG SLEEVE. + +PLATE 12. FIG. 9, 10. + +Turn up your material a yard or fifteen nails. If it will not permit of +this being done without joining, add a straight piece along the dotted +line, running the two selvages together. Cut out as follows: + +SCALE. + + +----------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + | From A to B is | 3 | + | From A to C | 2 | + | From B to L | 3 | + | From L to E | 3 | + | From E to F | 6 | + | From F to G | 8 | + | From G to H | 8 | + | From H to I | 4 | + +----------------+-------+ + +Cut from C to within half a nail below B for the wrist. Cut nearly +straight from B to O, which is two nails and a half below L, and in a +sweep from O to E. + +Sweep well from E to G, and from G to I. + +The making up is perfectly simple. + + +A FULL SLEEVE. + +PLATE 12. FIG. 11, 12. + +Turn up fifteen nails of your material, and mark as follows:— + +SCALE. + + +--------------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + | From A to B | 8 | + | From B to E | 7 | + | From E to F | 7 | + | From F to H | 5 | + | From the side to G | 1¾ | + | From H to I | 3 | + | From I to J | 2 | + | From A to C | 3¼ | + +--------------------+-------+ + +Curve from C to B; from B to F. Hollow from F to G, and cut nearly +straight from G to H. + +It is made up either quite simply, or with one or two rows of biassing +below the gathers at the top. + + +ANOTHER FULL SLEEVE. + +PLATE 12. FIG. 13, 14. + +Turn up thirteen nails of your material, and mark as follows:— + +SCALE. + + +-------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + | From A to B | 8 | + | From A to C | 2¼ | + | From B to O | 5 | + | From O to E | 3 | + | From E to F | 6 | + | From F to G | 2 | + | From F to H | 2 | + | From H to I | 3 | + | From I to J | 2 | + +-------------+-------+ + +Slope in a regular curve from C, by B, to E. Curve easily from E to G, +and cut nearly straight from G to H. Cut from H to I for the wrist. + + +A SMALL SLEEVE. + +PLATE 12. FIG. 15, 16. + +Turn up your material so that the cross part, is seventeen nails long. +Cut as follows (Fig. 16): + +SCALE. + + +-------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + | From A to B | 3¼ | + | From A to C | 2 | + | From B to E | 5¾ | + | From E to F | 3 | + | From F to G | 8 | + | From G to H | 3½ | + | From H to I | 3½ | + +-------------+-------+ + +Slope, in an equal and full curve, from C, by B, to F. Cut straight +from G to I. + + +AN OLD WOMAN’S SLEEVE. + +PLATE 12. FIG. 17, 18. + +This is an economical kind of sleeve, worn much by the working classes. + +Double your material either on the cross or nearly straight, according +to taste and economy. From A to B, the doubled part, is ten nails and +a half. C is the point opposite O, which is two nails below B. Slope, +in an outward curve, from B to C, and then, taking but one fold of the +silk, cut the inward curve from B to C, which forms the hollowing or +inside of the sleeve. + + +A BOY’S SLEEVE. + +PLATE 12. FIG. 19, 20. + +This is for a boy of about six years old, who wears tunics of cloth. +The sleeve, when doubled, is six nails long, four nails wide at the +top, and one nail and three-quarters at the wrist. A is three nails +from the top, opposite to which is B. + +Curve from C to B, hollowing out one fold. Fig. 20 represents the +sleeve made up. + + +A BOY’S SLEEVE. + +PLATE 12. FIG. 21. + +This sleeve is for a boy’s coat or tunic, and has two seams in it, like +a man’s coat sleeve. + +Take two pieces of cloth eight nails long and three wide. A is half way +down the length. Curve from A to the bottom, to within half a nail from +the corner. Curve from B to C at two nails from the top, and from A to +B at three-quarters of a nail from the side, which forms the elbow. +Curve from C to the bottom, at three-quarters of a nail from the side. + + +A WOMAN’S LARGE SLEEVE. + +PLATE 12. FIG. 22, 23. + +Turn up your material fourteen nails, and double it so as to be sixteen +nails long at the top, A C E. + +SCALE. + + +----------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + | From A to B is | 2 | + | From A to C | 8 | + | From C to E | 8 | + | From E to F | 2 | + | From F to G | 6 | + | From G to H | 3 | + | From G to I | 6 | + | From I to J | 7 | + +----------------+-------+ + +Sweep gradually from B, past C, to F. Curve again from F to H. Cut in a +straight line from H to J. + +In making up, the sleeve may be biassed one nail from the top, and a +piped band laid on, and again three or four times at the wrist, or it +may be confined above the elbow; in which case it must be made a little +longer than would otherwise be necessary. + +This is a pattern that can only be used when large sleeves are worn; +but, being a good shape, it is hoped it may prove acceptable. + + +SHORT SLEEVES. + +PLATE 12. FIG. 24, 25, 26. + +These are for dresses, frocks, or even petticoats, when full sleeves +are worn and liked. + +Cut the pattern of the whole sleeve in paper; and then, turning up your +material to a sufficient size crosswise, lay the sleeve open upon it, +placing the long side of the pattern upon the cross or doubled part of +the material. Both sleeves may thus be cut out at once. + +SCALE OF DIFFERENT SIZES. + + +--------------------------------+--------+--------+-------+ + | ———————— | Large | Second | Third | + | | size. | size. | size. | + +--------------------------------+--------+--------+-------+ + | | Nails. | Nails. | Nails.| + |Turn up the material at the side| 17 | 13 | 12 | + |From A to B | 3 | 2 | 3 | + |From A to C | 3 | 2 | 3 | + |From C to B | 2 | 1½ | 2 | + |From B to D | 14 | 10 | 8 | + |From D to E | 15 | 11 | 9½ | + |From E to F | 2 | 2 | 3 | + |From F to G | 2 | 3 | 2½ | + |From H to I | 6 | 5 | 4½ | + |From C to G | 20 | 14 | 12 | + |Length of band, say | 5½ | 5 | 4½ | + +--------------------------------+--------+--------+-------+ + | | | Small | | + | ———————— | Girl’s | girl’s |Child’s| + | | size. | size. | size. | + +--------------------------------+--------+--------+-------+ + | | Nails. | Nails. | Nails.| + |Turn up the material at the side| 9 | 6½ | 5½ | + |From A to B | 2 | 1 | 1 | + |From A to C | 2 | 1 | 1 | + |From C to B | 1½ | ¾ | ¾ | + |From B to D | 7½ | 5 | 4½ | + |From D to E | 7 | 5 | 4½ | + |From E to F | 2 | 1½ | 1 | + |From F to G | 2 | 1½ | 1 | + |From H to I | 3½ | 2½ | 2 | + |From C to G | 9 | 7 | 6 | + |Length of band, say | 4 | 3½ | 3¼ | + +--------------------------------+--------+--------+-------+ + +When cut out, fold each sleeve in half (see Fig. 26), and hollow one +fold out to form the inside. + +Take care to hollow the sleeves properly, so as to make a pair, the +straight part of the sleeve being in front, which is to be hollowed. If +the sleeve should require joining, sew two selvages together (see the +dotted line, Fig. 25). + +In making up, the bottom of the sleeve may be either set into a band, +as in the Plate, or into a piping; at the top it is gathered, and +frequently a piping is put round it, which gives it a neat finish: it +is set into the dress quite plainly under the arms; the fulness is +thrown a little back, for if brought too forward, it is very unbecoming +to the figure. + + +SHORT SLEEVE. + +PLATE 12. FIG. 27, 28, 29. + +These are cut out exactly like Fig. 25, excepting that after the sleeve +is simply cut out, a triangular piece is taken from the top of the +doubled part of it, and a triangle of worked muslin inserted. To cut +out this piece, double the sleeve, as in Fig. 29, and cut off from A to +B: when opened again, it will resemble Fig. 28, and when made up, it +will be like Fig. 27. + +In making up, after setting the sleeve into a band or piping at the +bottom, gather it at the top and sew it to the triangular piece, +throwing the fulness pretty equally at the sides, and making it very +full at the point of the triangle. Sometimes the triangle is piped to +make it firmer. + + +CIRCULAR SHORT SLEEVE. + +PLATE 12. FIG. 30, 31, 32. + +This is another kind of short sleeve, being cut out of a circle. It +is hollowed a little (see Fig. 30), A B, for the inside of the arm. A +circular hole is cut in the centre, a little larger than the width of +the arm; this inner circle is gathered and set into the band, and the +outer one, also gathered, is sewed into the arm-hole of the dress. + +The following are good sizes for circular sleeves, all of which must be +cut out of squares. + +SCALE. + + +-----------------------+------+------+------+------+-------+------+ + | ———————— |Full |Second| Third|Girl’s|Child’s|Baby’s| + | |size. |size. | size.| size.| size. |size. | + +-----------------------+------+------+------+------+-------+------+ + | |Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.| Nails.|Nails.| + |Size of the square | 18 | 15 | 13½ | 11 | 9 | 7 | + |Size of the hole across| 3½ | 3¼ | 3¼ | 2½ | 2 | 1¾ | + |Length of the band | 5½ | 5 | 4½ | 4 | 3½ | 3¼ | + +-----------------------+------+------+------+------+-------+------+ + + +TIGHT SLEEVE. + +PLATE 12. FIG. 33, 34, 35. + +This sleeve may be used either for petticoats, or, when tight sleeves +are worn, for evening dresses, and children’s frocks, in which case it +is ornamented in different ways. + +Turn up the material on the perfect cross, and for the better cutting +it out, double it again, as in Fig. 33, on which four folds lay your +pattern, D being the doubled part. + +Turn up your material eight nails, then fold it from A to B, Fig. 35, +and cut as follows, see Fig. 33: + +SCALE. + + +----------------+---------+ + | | Nails. | + | From A to B is | 3 | + | From A to C | 3 | + | From B to E | 4½ | + | From E to F | 2 | + | From F to G | 3½ | + | From C to H | ½ | + +----------------+---------+ + +Cut from B to C, sweep from B to F, and then cut from H, which is half +a nail above C, to G. + +[Illustration: PLATE 13 + +Fig. 1 Fig. 6 Fig. 9 Fig. 12 Fig. 13 Fig. 14 + +Fig. 2 Fig. 7 Fig. 10 Fig. 16 Fig. 15 + +Fig. 3 Fig. 39 Fig. 17 Fig. 18 + +Fig. 4 Fig. 8 Fig. 11 Fig. 19 Fig. 20 + +Fig. 21 Fig. 22 Fig. 23 + +Fig. 5 Fig. 24 Fig. 25 Fig. 26 Fig. 27 + +Fig. 28 Fig. 29 Fig. 30 Fig. 31 Fig. 32 Fig. 33 + +Fig. 34 Fig. 35 Fig. 36 Fig. 37 Fig. 38] + + +SHOULDER-PIECES, COLLARS, CAPES &c. + +PLATE 13. + +As the above articles, together with pelerines, tippets, and +collarettes, are required for cloaks, gowns, pelisses, frocks, +and dressing-gowns, it is advisable to class them under a head by +themselves, by which means they can be more readily explained, without +confusion or repetition, and the pattern wanted for any particular +dress, referred to. + +Patterns of the prettiest and most varied forms are selected, together +with a few scales for different sizes. + +OBSERVE that the Plates represent but half of the pattern, which is +supposed to be double at the end marked D; also NOTICE, that they are +drawn to a scale of the exact size of the pattern when _made up_, +so that about a quarter of a nail must be allowed all round for the +turnings in. It is a good plan, when cutting out any difficult shape, +to make a pattern on paper, very accurately, first; and then to lay it +on the material and cut by it. + +As it would be impossible to describe any intricate shape clearly, +without putting it into some regular form, it is deemed necessary to +enclose each pattern within an oblong or a square, on the sides of +which are marked distinctly the nails, so that by making a figure on +paper to a scale of real nails in the same proportion, and marking with +great accuracy the parts, which the extreme points of the irregular +pattern within, touch, the shape may be easily obtained by curving +inwardly or outwardly from point to point, according to the shape to be +represented in the drawing. It is always preferable to cut the above +articles crosswise, both before and behind, as they set much better +to the shape, especially behind; for the sake of economy, they are +sometimes cut straight-wise with one end placed against the selvage; +sometimes the collar or cape is joined behind with a neat piping, in +which case the back of the pattern is frequently laid against the +selvage and the points made to lie crosswise. The Plate represents the +patterns as cut on the most economical plan, shewing whether the front +or back should be straight-wise. Observe that if one side of the back +be cut across, the other side must be so likewise, and if one side of +the back be cut selvage-wise, so must the corresponding; whereas, with +regard to the front ends, one side may be straight, while the other is +on the cross. + + +IN CUTTING CROSSWISE. + +Turn up a sufficient quantity of the corner of the material, like a +half-handkerchief, and laying the pattern with the part marked D on the +doubled part of the material, cut it out, allowing a quarter of a nail +all round for the turning in. + + +IN CUTTING STRAIGHT-WISE. + +Double the material selvage-wise to the proper width, and cut out +according to the paper pattern, still placing D on the folded part of +the muslin. + + +SHOULDER-PIECES. + +Are generally employed in dressing-gowns, cloaks, and capes, also in +boys’ high dresses. It is the part to which the skirt or deep cape is +fulled, and should be made to set particularly well to the figure, else +the whole dress will have an awkward appearance. + +In making up, the shoulder-pieces are generally lined, unless they are +intended for any light article of dress. If they are meant for a cloak +or warm cape, a piece of fine flannel or demet, is often put between +the material of which the cloak is made and the lining, with a piping +round the edge. + + +A NEAT SHOULDER-PIECE FOR A WOMAN’S CLOAK. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 1. + +SCALE. + + +-----------------------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + |Width of square when doubled | 3½ | + |Length of square | 5¾ | + |Space from A to B | 2¾ | + |Space from B to C | 3 | + |Space from C to D | 1½ | + |Space from D to E | 2 | + |Space from E to F | 1 | + |Space from F to G | 1 | + |Space from F to H | 2½ | + |Space from H to I | 2¼ | + +-----------------------------+-------+ + +Shape off in a gradual curve from D to B, from B to I. Cut in a +straight line from D to G. Slope from G to H. + + +SHOULDER-PIECE FOR A CHILD’S CLOAK. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 2. + +SCALE. + + +----------------------------+-------+ + | |Nails. | + |Length of square | 4¼ | + |Width of square when folded | 3¼ | + |Space from A to B | 3 | + |Space from B to C | 1¼ | + |Space from D to E | ½ | + |Space from E to F | 1¾ | + |Space from E to G | 1¾ | + |Space from G to H | 2 | + +----------------------------+-------+ + +Cut in a straight line from C to J. Curve gradually from F to G, and +from B to H. + + +A VERY NEAT SHOULDER-PIECE FOR A WOMAN’S CLOAK. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 3 + +SCALE. + + +----------------------------+---------------+-------------+ + | ———————— |Shoulder-piece.| Collar for a| + | | |baby’s cloak.| + +----------------------------+---------------+-------------+ + | | Nails. | Nails. | + |Length of square | 4¼ | 4 | + |Width of square when double | 3¾ | 3½ | + |Space from A to B | 2¼ | 1½ | + |Space from B to C | 2 | 2½ | + |Space from C to D | 1¾ | 1½ | + |Space from D to E | 2 | 2 | + |Space from E to F | 1¾ | 2 | + |Space from F to G | 2½ | 2 | + |Space from G to H | 1½ | 2 | + +----------------------------+---------------+-------------+ + +Form the curve from B to H, so as to end without abruptness, and be +lost in the straight line. Round well from B to D. + + +SHOULDER-PIECE FOR A BABY’S CLOAK. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 4. + +SCALE. + + +-----------------------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + |Length of square | 3 | + |Width of square when doubled | 3 | + |Space from A to B | 2½ | + |Space from B to C | ½ | + |Space from C to D | ½ | + |Space from D to E | 2½ | + |Space from E to F | 1½ | + |Space from F to G | 1½ | + |Space from G to H | 1 | + +-----------------------------+-------+ + + +SHOULDER-PIECE TO A CHILD’S PELISSE. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 5. + +This shape is much in use for spencers, pelisses, and boys’ high +dresses. The part marked S sets over the shoulder when the sleeve +is fulled on at the top. The parts marked B and F lie in the +middle, exactly behind, and in front; thus the pattern shows half +the shoulder-piece, the curve being for half round the neck. The +other half is piped and sewed on to it in front, and is fastened +behind by buttons. The fulness of the body is then sewed on to this +shoulder-piece, which is piped all round. + +SCALE. + + +-----------------------------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + |Length of square | 3 | + |Width of square | 3¼ | + |Space from A to B | ¾ | + |Space from B to C | 2¼ | + |Space from C to D | 1¼ | + |Space from D to E | ½ | + |Space from E to F | 1½ | + |Space from F to G | 1½ | + |Space from G to H, and from H to L | 1 | + +-----------------------------------+-------+ + + +VARIOUS SIZES FOR CAPES AND TIPPETS FOR WOMEN AND CHILDREN. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 6. + + Column 1. A woman’s large cape for walking in. + Column 2. A woman’s large cape for morning dress. + Column 3. A child’s large cape for walking in. + Column 4. A woman’s collar. + Column 5. A child’s pretty cape for morning dress. + Column 6. A child’s cape for a pelisse. + Column 7. Pretty cape for the morning dress of a + child of four or five years old. + The Plate represents the pattern in the fourth column. + +SCALE. + + +-----------------+------+------+------+------+------+------+------+ + | ———————— |No. 1.|No. 2.|No. 3.|No. 4.|No. 5.|No. 6.|No. 7.| + +-----------------+------+------+------+------+------+------+------+ + | |Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.| + |Length of square | 12½ | 9¾ | 8½ | 7¾ | 8 | 7¼ | 6½ | + |Width of square | | | | | | | | + | doubled | 8¾ | 7¾ | 5½ | 5½ | 5 | 4¾ | 4½ | + |Width from A to B| 6½ | 4½ | 4½ | 4¾ | 5 | 3 | 3 | + |Width from B to C| 6 | 5¼ | 4 | 3 | 3 | 4¼ | 3½ | + |Width from C to D| 3¾ | 2¼ | 1½ | 1½ | 2½ | 2¾ | 1 | + |Width from D to E| 5 | 5½ | 4 | 3½ | 2½ | 2 | 3½ | + |Width from E to F| 2¾ | 1¾ | 2½ | 1½ | 2½ | 2 | 1 | + |Width from F to G| 1½ | 1¾ | 1½ | 1¾ | ½ | ½ | 1 | + |Width from F to H| 2¼ | 2 | 1¾ | 1¾ | 1½ | 1¾ | 3¼ | + |Width from H to I| 7 | 5¾ | 4¼ | 4½ | 4 | 3½ | 3¼ | + |Width from I to J| 3¾ | 3 | ¼ | ½ | 1 | ¼ | | + +-----------------+------+------+------+------+------+------+------+ + + +PLATE 13. FIG. 7. + + Column 1. A neat collar for a woman’s cloak or dressing-gown. + Column 2. Rather smaller pattern of the above. + Column 3. A very neat collar for a girl of fourteen. + Column 4. A collar for a baby’s flannel cloak. + The Plate represents column 2. + +SCALE. + + +------------------------------+------+------+-------+------+ + | ———————— |No. 1.|No. 2.| No. 3.|No. 4.| + +------------------------------+------+------+-------+------+ + | |Nails.|Nails.| Nails.|Nails.| + | Length of square | 5½ | 5 | 4½ | 4 | + | Width of square when doubled | 5¾ | 5½ | 5½ | 5 | + | Space from A to B | 1¾ | 1 | corner| ½ | + | | | |rounded| | + | Space from B to C | 3¾ | 4 | 4 | 3½ | + | Space from C to D | 3¼ | 3 | 2 | 2 | + | Space from D to E | 2 | 2½ | 3½ | 3 | + | Space from E to F | 2½ | 2¼ | 1¼ | 1 | + | Space from F to G | 3 | 2¾ | 3¼ | 3 | + | Space from G to H | ½ | ½ | | | + +------------------------------+------+------+-------+------+ + +In column 3, mark one quarter of a nail above the corner, G, and slope +off in a direct line from the mark to the opposite corner, A, which is +merely rounded off at the corner, about a quarter of a nail on each +side. + + +PLATE 13. FIG. 8. + +A pretty collar to put on a silk mourning shawl, or for a dress or +cloak. Both the back and front must be on the cross. + +SCALE. + + +-------------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + | Length of square | 7½ | + | Width of square | 6½ | + | Space from A to B | 5½ | + | Space from B to C | 2 | + | Space from C to D | 5 | + | Space from D to E | 1½ | + | Space from E to F | 3½ | + | Space from F to G | 4 | + | Space from G to H | 2½ | + +-------------------+-------+ + + +A PARTICULARLY NEAT AND WELL-SETTING CAPE. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 9. + +SCALE. + + +------------------------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + | Length of square | 12 | + | Width of square when doubled | 8 | + | Space from A to B | 4 | + | Space from B to C | 8 | + | Space from C to D | 3 | + | Space from D to E | 5 | + | Space from E to F | 3¾ | + | Space from F to G | 2 | + | Space from F to H | 3 | + | Space from H to I | 5¼ | + | Space from I to J | 1¾ | + +------------------------------+-------+ + + +PLATE 13. FIG. 10, 11. + +Fig. 11 is a very pretty pattern for a walking cape, and is often worn +in mourning, with black crape gaufiered round the edge a nail deep, as +in the Plate. Fig. 10 is a simple collarette, which is sewed on the +cape to give it a finish. + +SCALE TO FIG. 10. + + +------------------------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + | Length of square | 4¼ | + | Width of square when doubled | 5½ | + | Space from A to B | 1 | + | Space from B to C | 3½ | + | Space from C to D | 2½ | + | Space from D to E | 3 | + | Space from E to F | 2 | + | Space from F to G | 2¼ | + | Space from G to H | 2 | + +------------------------------+-------+ + +SCALE TO FIG. 11. + + +------------------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | Length of square | 7½ | + | Width of square when doubled | 10½ | + | Space from A to B | 6½ | + | Space from B to C | 1 | + | Space from C to D | 1 | + | Space from D to E | 4 | + | Space from E to F | 5½ | + | Space from F to G | 1½ | + | Space from G to H | 3 | + | Space from G to I | 6 | + | Space from I to J | 7 | + +------------------------------+--------+ + + +A REMARKABLY NEAT MORNING COLLAR. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 12. + +SCALE. + + +------------------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | Length of square | 10 | + | Width of square when doubled | 7½ | + | Space from A to B | 2¾ | + | Space from B to C | 7¼ | + | Space from C to D | 3½ | + | Space from D to E | 4 | + | Space from E to F | 2 | + | Space from F to G | 1½ | + | Space from F to H | 2¼ | + | Space from H to I | 5¾ | + +------------------------------+--------+ + + +A PRETTY LITTLE CAPE FOR A BABY’S CLOAK OR PELISSE. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 13. + +SCALE. + + +------------------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | Length of square | 3¼ | + | Width of square when doubled | 3 | + | Space from A to B | 1¼ | + | Space from B to C | 2 | + | Space from C to D | 1¼ | + | Space from D to E | 1¾ | + | Space from E to F | ½ | + | Space from F to G | 1 | + | Space from F to H | ¾ | + | Space from H to I | 2 | + +------------------------------+--------+ + + +SMALL COLLAR TO BE SEWED TO A HABIT-SHIRT. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 14. + +SCALE. + + +------------------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | Length of square | 4 | + | Width of square when doubled | 4½ | + | Space from A to B | 1 | + | Space from B to C | 3 | + | Space from C to D | 1 | + | Space from D to E | 3½ | + | Space from E to F | 1 | + | Space from F to G | 3 | + +------------------------------+--------+ + + +PLATE 13. FIG. 15, 16. + +Fig. 15, is the pattern of a very handsome long pointed cape, commonly +worn to rich silk cloaks and sometimes alone; when that is the case, +they are frequently made of velvet or fine cloth, and trimmed with fur +or swan’s down. + +The cape is made as follows:—Sew together three breadths of the +material, eight nails and a half long and about eight nails wide (of +course a less number of breadths will be required, if the material be +much wider, as merinos, &c.), to each end of the three breadths thus +sewed in one length, add another breadth, which, as in Fig. 15 (see A), +is eight and a half nails deep at one end, and twelve nails deep at the +other, the material being cut in a straight line from B to C. + + +A GOOD SHAPE FOR A LADY’S RIDING COLLAR, TO BE SEWED TO A HABIT-SHIRT. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 17. + + +SCALE. + + +------------------------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + | Length of square | 4 | + | Width of square when doubled | 4 | + | Space from A to B | 2 | + | Space from B to C | 2 | + | Space from C to D | 1½ | + | Space from D to E | 2½ | + | Space from E to F | 1¾ | + | Space from F to G | 2¼ | + +------------------------------+-------+ + +These collars are made of a doubled piece of lawn, which being run +together and turned inside out, are neatly stitched near the edge like +gentlemen’s collars. + + +A CHEMISETTE DE VIERGE, MODESTY, OR TUCKER. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 18. + +This is but a quarter of the article, and when the paper pattern is +made from the drawing, it should be doubled, so that when cut, it forms +half the chemisette, which if it is again laid on a piece of muslin or +net doubled, the two sides may be cut at once. + +Chemisettes are worn under evening dresses, and are trimmed with +blonde, lace, or muslin edging, which should just be seen above the +gown. The part marked S is the shoulder. The chemisette is put on over +the head and draws round the waist by a tape. + +SCALE. + + +-------------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + | Length of square | 4¾ | + | Width of square | 4¼ | + | Space from A to B | 3¾ | + | Space from B to C | 1 | + | Space from C to D | 1 | + | Space from D to E | 3¼ | + | Space from E to F | 1½ | + | Space from F to G | 3¾ | + +-------------------+-------+ + + +A BABY’S COLLARETTE. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 19. + +This is particularly neat for a baby’s pelisse, and may be sewed on to +the shoulder-piece. (Fig. 5). + +SCALE. + + +------------------------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + | Length of square | 3¾ | + | Width of square when doubled | 4 | + | Space from A to B | 2¼ | + | Space from B to C | 1½ | + | Space from C to D | 1¼ | + | Space from D to E | 2 | + | Space from E to F | ¾ | + | Space from F to G | 2½ | + | Space from G to H | 1¼ | + | Space from H to I | 1½ | + +------------------------------+-------+ + +This collarette should be piped all round, and edged with work, +excepting the curve, which goes half round the neck. Two half +collarettes must be cut, one for the right, and one for the left side +of the neck. + + +A HABIT-SHIRT. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 20, 23. + +Fig. 23 represents half of the back of a habit-shirt. Fig. 20, one of +the two fronts which are sewed on to the back at the shoulder, the +parts marked in each figure, S, being the corresponding pieces. + +SCALE TO FIG. 23. + + +----------------------------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + | Length of the square | 8½ | + | Width of the square when doubled | 4 | + | Space from A to B | 6½ | + | Space from B to C | 2 | + | Space from C to D | 2¼ | + | Space from D to E | 1¼ | + | Space from E to F | 1 | + +----------------------------------+-------+ + +This back, which, of course is cut in the whole piece, has a tape +passed through a hem at the bottom, which tape also passes through the +hems at the bottom of the two fronts, and ties before. + +SCALE TO FIG. 20. + + +---------------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | Length of the square | 6¼ | + | Width of the square | 6 | + | Space from A to B | 5¼ | + | Space from B to C | 1 | + | Space from C to D | 4 | + | Space from D to E | 2 | + | Space from E to F | 1¼ | + | Space from F to G | 5 | + +---------------------------+--------+ + +This figure represents one of the fronts of the habit-shirt; the part +marked D is the front, S is the shoulder; where the two fronts meet +they may be fastened by small buttons, and sometimes work is let in, or +narrow tucks made, which have a neat effect. Below the shoulder, and +down the front, it is finished with a narrow hem. A collar may be sewed +to it at the neck, by a mantua-maker’s hem. + + +A MOURNING COLLAR. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 21. + +Made of clear muslin, white crape, widow’s lawn, net or tulle, with a +broad hem one nail deep all round. + +SCALE. + + +------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | Length of square | 5½ | + | Width of square | 6 | + | From A to B | 5½ | + | From B to C | 2½ | + | From C to D | 3½ | + | From D to E | 2½ | + | From E to F | 3 | + +------------------+--------+ + +The hems to these collars are generally laid on, by being run at the +edge, and then turned back and hemmed, this is a much neater plan than +any other. Sometimes two collars with deep hems are worn one above the +other. + +For mourning collars of net with either a broad hem, frills with deep +hems, or gaufiered frills are used. If the mourning is very deep, the +muslin collar is covered with black crape. + + +A ROUND CAPE OR TIPPET. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 22. + +No scale can be made to this tippet, as the size is only determined +according to the purpose for which it is to be used. Form a perfect +circle, and slit from the outer edge of the circle A to the centre B, +after which cut out a piece for the neck. This is a very good shape for +school girls, it also makes a useful dressing or combing tippet. + + +A HABIT-SHIRT. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 24. + +This is a very simple neat shape for a habit-shirt. T is the front, +and D the middle of the back. It is all cut in one piece, and the part +marked B may be laid against the selvage; S is the shoulder. + + +SCALE. + + +-------------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + | Length of square | 6 | + | Width of square | 10 | + | Space from A to B | 4 | + | Space from B to C | 3 | + | Space from B to D | 2 | + | Space from D to E | 6 | + | Space from E to F | 4 | + +-------------------+-------+ + +Cut in a straight line from C to A, and square the corner off at A. + + +A PELERINE. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 25. + +The back is on the cross and the front is straight. + +SCALE. + + +------------------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | Length of oblong | 7 | + | Width of oblong when doubled | 13 | + | Space from A to B | 6½ | + | Space from B to C | ½ | + | Space from C to D | 6 | + | Space from D to E | 3 | + | Space from E to F | 1 | + | Space from E to G | 4 | + | Space from H to I | 4 | + | Space from I to J | 1¼ | + | Space from I to K | 3 | + | Space from K to L | ¾ | + +------------------------------+--------+ + + +PLATE 13. FIG. 26. + +This is a very simple collar, and much worn by persons of quiet +unassuming habits. It is composed of two oblong strips of muslin, +hemmed all round with rather a broad hem, and sewed together at the +ends half the way up. Each oblong is four nails long and about three +nails deep. + + +A REMARKABLY PRETTY PELERINE FOR A MORNING DRESS. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 27. + +SCALE. + + +-------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | Length of square | 5 | + | Width of square | 11 | + | Space from A to B | 3½ | + | Space from B to C | 1½ | + | Space from C to D | 5 | + | Space from D to E | 2½ | + | Space from E to F | 3½ | + | Space from F to G | 2 | + | Space from F to H | 3 | + | Space from H to I | 5 | + +-------------------+--------+ + + +PLATE 13. FIG. 28. + +This is the pattern of a very handsome long pelerine. The part marked S +must be laid along the selvage. Of course this is in two parts, both of +which will nearly lie side by side on the opposite selvages of the same +breadth. + +SCALE. + + +----------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | Length of the square | 21 | + | Width of the square | 8 | + | Space from A to B | 14 | + | Space from B to C | 3 | + | Space from C to D | 1 | + | Space from D to E | 4 | + | Space from E to F | 5½ | + | Space from F to G | 2½ | + | Space from G to H | 6 | + | Space from H to I | 4 | + | Space from I to J | 5½ | + | Space from J to K | 1 | + | Space from K to L | 1½ | + | Space from I to M | 11 | + | Space from M to N | 4 | + +----------------------+--------+ + + +A HANDSOME SHAPE FOR A PELERINE WITH A SQUARE COLLAR. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 29. + +SCALE. + + +------------------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | Length of square | 7 | + | Width of square when doubled | 12 | + | Space from A to B | 6½ | + | Space from B to C | 4 | + | Space from C to D | 2½ | + | Space from C to E | 2 | + | Space from E to F | 3 | + | Space from F to G | 3 | + | Space from G to H | 4 | + | Space from H to I | 1 | + | Space from I to J | 3 | + | Space from I to K | 2 | + | Space from K to L | 4 | + | Space from L to M | 4½ | + | Space from M to N | 2 | + +------------------------------+--------+ + +The letters E, F, J, and D, point out the shape of the upper collar. + + +PLATE 13. FIG. 30. + +This is a frill to go over each shoulder of a cape or pelerine, as a +finish, and is peculiarly adapted to Fig. 25, 27. + +SCALE TO FIG. 30. + + +----------------------+-------+ + | | Nails.| + | Length of the square | 8 | + | Width of the square | 10 | + +----------------------+-------+ + +Draw a straight line across from A to B, which are situated one nail +within the corners of the square. + + +SCALE. + + +----------------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | Space from the corner to C | 7 | + | Space from C to E | 2 | + | Space from C to D | 3½ | + | Space from F to the corner | 1 | + +----------------------------+--------+ + +Curve, according to the pattern, from the corner to E. The cross part +is then fulled on to the pelerine, leaving about two nails from the +front and back points. + + +A CAPE FOR A BABY’S PELISSE. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 31. + +SCALE. + + +------------------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | Length of square | 5 | + | Width of square when doubled | 5 | + | Space from A to B | 3 | + | Space from B to C | 2 | + | Space from C to D | 1½ | + | Space from D to E | 1 | + | Space from E to F | 2½ | + | Space from F to G | 1½ | + | Space from G to H | 1 | + | Space from H to I | 2½ | + | Space from I to J | 3 | + +------------------------------+--------+ + + +ANOTHER SHOULDER-PIECE, OR NEAT COLLAR. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 32. + +If used for the latter, it may be made with a hem all round, through +which a coloured or white satin ribbon may be drawn of about twopenny +width. A single or double frill of net should be sewed round it, with a +corresponding hem for ribbon. This frill, after the hem is made, should +be a full nail deep. + +SCALE. + + +------------------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | Length of square | 4 | + | Width of square when doubled | 4 | + | Space from A to B | 2 | + | Space from B to C | 2 | + | Space from C to D | 1½ | + | Space from D to E | 2½ | + | Space from E to F | 1¼ | + +------------------------------+--------+ + + +A MODESTY, OR TUCKER. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 33. + +This little front, or modesty, is to put inside a low dress, and may +be made very prettily. The materials most in use for them are cambric, +lawn, muslin, net, tulle, satin, or crape. They are generally tucked, +or in folds, or frilled into strips of insertion-work, either the +length or the width-way, and always trimmed with a little work or +edging on the top. When made, they are about three nails deep, and five +nails wide at the top, and tapering to three nails at the waist. They +are almost always made the straight way, particularly when they are +intended to wash. + + +A SIMPLE COLLAR. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 34. + +This is a particularly simple pretty collar, and is frequently made of +net or muslin, trimmed with narrow work or muslin. It has a broad hem +all round, through which satin ribbon is passed. The collar is merely +a straight piece, eight nails deep and fourteen nails wide. Double it +in half length-wise, and also width-wise to find the centre, and then +cut in a straight line from A B, at the top, to the centre. The points, +A B, each fall over, as seen in the Plate, and give the appearance of +a second collar. The ends should be a little hollowed out, to make the +whole set better. + + +ANOTHER HANDSOME PELERINE. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 35. + +SCALE. + + +-------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | Length of square | 8 | + | Width of square | 11 | + | Space from A to B | 8 | + | Space from B to C | 4 | + | Space from C to D | 1¼ | + | Space from C to E | 2 | + | Space from D to F | 5 | + | Space from F to G | 4 | + | Space from G to H | 2 | + | Space from H to I | 2½ | + | Space from H to J | 2 | + | Space from J to K | 7 | + | Space from K to L | 3 | + | Space from K to M | 2 | + +-------------------+--------+ + +The corner or tip to be rounded off, beginning at two nails from A, at +the bottom, to one nail above A, at the side. + + +A ROUND COLLAR. + +PLATE 13. FIG. 36. + +This is a small and simple shape for a round collar, with a smaller +one upon it. When the larger is cut, the lesser one may be cut by the +eye, only taking notice to shape it off more abruptly in front than the +other. + + +SCALE. + + +-------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | Length of square | 6½ | + | Width of square | 5½ | + | Space from A to B | 3½ | + | Space from B to C | 3 | + | Space from C to D | 1¾ | + | Space from D to E | 3¼ | + | Space from E to F | ¾ | + | Space from F to G | 1½ | + | Space from F to H | 2¼ | + | Space from H to I | 3½ | + +-------------------+--------+ + + +A SCHOOL-GIRL’S TIPPET. + +PLATE 16. FIG. 37, 38. + +This is an economical mode of making tippets for poor children, or +charity schools, of remnants of cloth, print, &c. Cut a circle in +paper, of the right size, and pin it on the carpet or table cloth, +whilst you arrange strips of your material on it, in regular lines, +as in the Fig. 37; two or three strips may cross each other at right +angles; between them should be other straight pieces, and then +triangular bits will fill up the circle. Black, orange, crimson, blue, +and brown cloth, look very well. + + +ANOTHER SCHOOL-GIRL’S TIPPET. + +PLATE 16. FIG. 39. (Near to FIG. 10, 16.) + +This is made of the list of flannel, the selvage of cloth, or any +other warm material, and is sewed on to calico; cut a lining in the +shape required, and beginning at the bottom, place layer above layer, +or strip above strip, something in the way that the many capes of a +coachman’s great coat are done: the list or cloth is not put on quite +flat, but is a very little fulled. It is then lined with flannel or +cloth, and is a most comfortable and strong tippet. + + +PETTICOATS. + +PLATE 14. + +Petticoats are made of calico, twill, dimity, cambric, and jaconet +muslin, sometimes for mourning, or for wearing under thin dresses of +silk and satin: for the middling and lower classes, they are of calico, +strong dimity, calimanco, stuff, and bombazine: they are made in +various ways, which will be described in the following pages, and the +patterns given: the figures and sizes of persons differ so essentially +that scales will not be attempted. + +Petticoats are in three distinct parts—the skirt, the body, and the +sleeves, the varieties of each will be treated of in their turn. + + +SKIRTS. + +Skirts have generally from two, to two and a half-breadths in them, +according to the width of the material of which they are made: they are +sometimes finished at the bottom with a deep hem, three nails broad, +tucks, or worked muslin. Sometimes they are bought with cotton runners, +woven in them at the bottom, six or eight nails deep, which make the +dress stand out, and if the gown is of a clinging material, causes it +to hang better. Skirts are generally made with the opening behind, +but for elderly persons or servants, it is at the sides, the seams +being left unsewed for about four nails from the top; sometimes they +are furnished with pockets on one or both sides; for a description of +which, see Pockets. Skirts may be set on to the body, either equally +full all round, plain under the arms, and full at the front and +back, or with all the fulness behind. Servants frequently wear their +petticoats merely set into a tape round the waist, without any body, +and with or without tape shoulder-straps, to keep them up. Under or +middle petticoats are also made in this manner. + + +BODIES OR WAISTS. + +These are made either full or tight to the figure. + +[Illustration: PLATE 14. + +Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 + +Fig 4 Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 11 + +Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 17 + +Fig 18 Fig 19 Fig 20 Fig 21 Fig 22 Fig 23 + +Fig 24 Fig 25 Fig 26 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 29 + +Fig 30 Fig 31 Fig 32 Fig 33 Fig 34 + +Fig 35 Fig 36 Fig 37 Fig 38 Fig 39 Fig 40 + +Fig 41 Fig 42 Fig 43 Fig 44 Fig 45 + +Fig 46 Fig 47 + +Fig 48 Fig 49 Fig 50 Fig 51 Fig 52 Fig 53 Fig 54 Fig 55] + +Tight or plain bodies consist of five parts: the front, two +side-pieces, and two backs (see Fig. 1). The front is always cut on the +cross, and reaches from below one arm to the other: the side-pieces are +also cut crosswise on one side, and straight on the other, the straight +side being joined to the front, and that which is cross being stitched +to the backs, which are straight behind. Fig. 1 represents a tight body +made up, for a small person. Observe that the various directions of +the lines drawn on the engravings, represents the selvage-way of the +material, as a better guide for the inexperienced. In making up, all +the parts should be back-stitched together: the band ought to be very +strong; it is often made of webbing or stout tape. Petticoat bodies may +be made with or without sleeves, according to the taste of the wearer. + +Full bodies are made in a similar manner to tight ones, excepting that +two nails more are added in width to the front, so that when laid open +it is ten nails and a half at its greatest extent, instead of only +seven and a half, like the plain body, and half a nail is also given +to each back. The front is cut straight instead of cross, in the full +bodies. (See Plate 14, Fig. 2.) + + +SLEEVES. + +For figures of sleeves, see Plate 12 and the descriptions annexed. + + +NURSING PETTICOATS. + +PLATE 14. + +For the convenience of those mothers who nurse their infants, the +petticoat body in front may be opened in various ways. + + +PLATE 14. FIG. 3. + +The most general mode is simply to have the front of the body in two +pieces, so as to open in the middle before, hemming it on each side, +and letting the parts tie or button together at the top: it is as well +to set the two sides of the front into the band, so that they may +overlap each other, in order to guard against cold. This petticoat +fastens behind in the usual manner. + + +PLATE 14. FIG. 4. + +Another approved method is that of having the petticoat open on each +side in front, so as to be close at the back. This petticoat body +is made in four parts: one back, two side pieces, one front. The +back piece is cut the straight way, so as to let A B, Fig. 4, lie +selvage-wise. + +SCALE. + + +--------------------------------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | Depth from A to B | 4 | + | Width from G to D | 6 | + | Width from F to E | 8½ | + | Slope it down to H H | 1½ | + | Side-piece from below the arm to the waist | 2¼ | + | From H to J | 4 | + | From J to K cut straight-wise | 3 | + | Length of shoulder-straps | 2 | + | Breadth of shoulder-straps | 1 | + +--------------------------------------------+--------+ + +The shoulder-straps connect the top of the side-piece with the top of +the back. The front of the body is in one piece, being eight nails +wide at the top, sloped down to five nails and a half at the bottom; +it is four nails deep in the middle, but being hollowed out, is half +a nail deeper at the sides. This front has a broad hem all round it, +and is set into a band, which is attached to the front breadth of the +skirt, the seam on each side of this breadth being open for the space +of four nails. Tapes are attached to the band of the back breadth, and +tie in front; buttons are set on, to within a nail of the end of the +band below the side pieces, to which the band of the front buttons on +each side, and by this means overlaps the opening: button-holes are +also made at the two corners of the front (see X Z), which correspond +with the buttons on the shoulder-strap, Z. The left hand side of Fig. +4 represents the petticoat with the body drawn forward, as if for the +purpose of tying it, while the opposite side shows it as if thrown +back, ready to put the arm into the sleeve. The front is unfastened and +has fallen down. + + +GOWNS. + +PLATE 14. + +Gowns being a part of dress much influenced by the fashion or custom +of the day, will not be fully entered on in this work, as it would +be impossible to give the variety of form and size which is seen in +them, and equally impossible, were a selection attempted, to please +all tastes, or suit all figures: a few simple patterns for those kinds +which are independent of fashion, and especially for those worn by +servants, and persons engaged in laborious employments, with a very few +other plain ones, will alone come within the limits of the work. + +Those commonly worn by servants, and the working classes, are of print, +linen, stuff, and for best, light ginghams, merino, or bombazine; +ladies wear muslin, gingham, silk, merino, and for dress, either +lighter or richer materials, as satins, velvets, gauzes, &c. + + +GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. + +The bodies of working gowns should be lined with strong linen, which is +preferable to calico, as it does not shrink in the washing; they should +be of dark and good washing colours, deep blue and lilac are the best +for wear. + +It is a good plan to line silk and merino, or stuff gown bodies, with +strong linen or brown Holland, as it keeps them in shape, by preventing +them from stretching. + +In buying striped dresses, be careful that the stripes run +selvage-wise, otherwise they are very unbecoming. In making up the +bodies, the stripes should lie in the same direction, and not crosswise +from shoulder to shoulder. + +Checks or plaids are rarely becoming when they are large: for children +they should be particularly small and narrow, the colours should not be +too bright or gay, but sufficiently contrasted and decided, to give a +clear clean effect; plaids of which the colours are pale and indistinct +never look very well; and after wearing a short time appear faded and +shabby. + +Checks are becoming to tall people, and stripes to short ones, as the +former rather diminish, while the latter give an appearance of greater +length to the figure than is natural to it, in the same way that a +striped paper makes a room look higher, than one which is checked, or +of which the pattern goes round instead of from top to bottom. + +Broad hems and deep flounces also tend to lessen the height, it may +therefore be taken as a general rule that tall persons should endeavour +to add to their width, by making all the accompaniments to their dress +as full and wide, as is consistent with the reigning taste, while those +who are short, should let all theirs be as moderate as possible. + +The same observations will also apply to stout and thin persons; for +the former, all trimmings of the bodies in front, such as rouleaux, +folds, and straps, should, generally speaking, be carried from the +shoulder to the waist, in preference to being laid on crosswise; while +with those who are of a slighter make, it is merely a matter of fancy, +only remarking that every advantage of fulness should be given them. + +If the trimming of a dress does not exactly match it, care should be +taken to select it darker than the dress itself. Waistbands, when +shaded, or of two colours, should be always worn with the darkest shade +or colour at the bottom of the waist. + +The complexion should determine the choice of colours. Persons of a +sallow or muddy complexion should carefully avoid bright and glaring, +or on the other hand, undecided colours; such as yellow, cherry colour, +light green, buff, or drab; clear tints are more suitable to them, as +white, light blue, violet, or black. + +Those with pale but clear complexions, may wear all the shades of rose +colour, primrose, apricot, buff, light green, lilac, brown, and violet. + +Fair persons with a colour, will find few shades decidedly unbecoming; +perhaps it will be as well for them not to wear buff. + +Dark olive or brown complexions should avoid either very dark or very +light colours, but they should be careful to select clear tints: pink, +geranium, and violet are the most decidedly suitable to them. + +On all occasions let the old saying be kept in mind, + + “Gaudy colours strike the eye, + And magnify deformity.” + +These remarks may seem superfluous to some, but as attention to the +minutiæ of dress adds much to a lady-like and refined appearance, +and as an endeavour to please by an agreeable exterior, does not +necessarily involve a disposition to vanity and frivolity, it is hoped +that they will not be hastily condemned. + + +GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CUTTING OUT DRESSES. + +It would be useless to form scales for the different kinds of dresses, +as shapes vary so much, therefore none will be introduced, excepting +for children and young persons; as, however, this article of dress +forms one of the most important parts of a person’s wardrobe, all +general observations for cutting out, that can be reduced to rule, will +be given as clearly as the subject will admit of, at the same time, it +is strongly recommended to all those who can afford it, to have their +best dresses invariably made by a mantua-maker, as those which are cut +out at home seldom fit so comfortably, or look so well, as when made +by persons in constant practice. To those who have large families or +limited means, it certainly is a great saving of expense having them +made at home, and to such, the following rules may be useful. It would +be very advisable, _as a practice_, for persons little acquainted with +cutting out, to purchase cheap print for poor children’s dress and by +fitting them on, much experience and nicety might be acquired at little +waste or expense. + +In making a dress for any body, the following measurements should be +taken with a piece of common tape. + +From the waist to the bottom of the skirt. + +From the nape of the neck to the waist behind. + +Round the waist. + +Round the wrist. + +From the shoulder to the wrist, with the arm bent. + +In sending to London or elsewhere for a dress or riding habit, of which +the exact measure is required, observe the following directions for +transmitting measure in inches:— + + 1. Height of the person, observing if they stand upright. + 2. The length of the arm from the centre of the back to the elbow, + and thence to the knuckles. + 3. The circumference of the body, over the full part of the chest. + 4. The circumference of the smallest part of the waist. + 5. Length of the nape of the neck to the waist, and thence to the + ground. + 6. From the front of the armpit to the centre of the bosom, thence + to the chest. + 7. From the nape of the neck, over the shoulder, to the centre of + the bosom, and thence to the waist immediately under it. + + +PLATE 14. + +The bodies of dresses contain various parts, called the fronts, the +backs, the side-pieces, the shoulder-straps, the shoulder-pieces, +collars, &c., &c. These parts are variously employed and differently +cut out, according to the style of the dress, sometimes being on the +cross, and sometimes on the straight way. + +Observe that the lines in the engravings denote, by their direction, +which way the selvage side of the material runs. For the purpose of +making this quite clear, let it be supposed that these lines represent +stripes which run along or down the selvage. + +Linings should always be cut to lie the same direction as the material +of the gown. + +In cutting out a dress, it is usual to fit the lining upon the figure, +and cut out the gown from it, though, with an inexperienced person, it +would be advisable to fit on the gown also, if the dress is to be full, +or in folds. + +Gowns are high, low, three-quartered, plain, or full, open before or +behind, all of which sorts will be treated of in their proper order. + + +SIDE-PIECES. + +PLATE 14. FIG. 12, 13. + +Most dresses have side-pieces or bits under the arm, to join the backs +to the fronts. These side-pieces are cut variously. For stout persons, +the selvage-way or stripe should run from the extreme point at the +bottom of the back of the side-piece, A, towards the middle of the top, +B, of Fig. 12. For slight figures, the selvage-way or stripe should run +along, or nearly along the front of the side-piece, thus A B, in Fig. +13. + +The size of a side-piece depends much upon the figure and fashion. It +should never, however, be brought much forwarder than under the middle +of the arm-hole. It varies very much at the back, sometimes being +brought but just behind the arm-hole, at others to within a nail of the +middle of the back. The side-piece is sometimes cut straight at the +back, and at others in a kind of half-arch; the latter is required for +stout persons. + + +BACK SHOULDER-PIECES. + +PLATE 14. FIG. 5. + +These are not necessary to the set of the gown, and are seldom +introduced, unless it is the reigning fashion, or for the better +cutting up of the material. When these are used, of course +shoulder-straps are unnecessary, as they connect the backs with the +fronts. A represents a back shoulder-piece. + + +SHOULDER-STRAPS. + +PLATE 14. FIG. 6, 7. + +These are mere straps to connect the fronts and backs, and lie over +the shoulder. The straps are always double and are generally sloped +at each end, so as to be wider next the sleeve than at the shoulder or +neck (see Fig. 7). + + +SKIRTS. + +These vary very much as to the number of breadths, according to fashion +and material. Thin clinging materials, as muslin, require more breadths +than thick or standing out articles of dress, as silk-gauze, velvet, +&c.; six, seven, or eight breadths are worn now for full dresses, but +formerly four breadths were deemed sufficient. They are usually lined +with thin glazed muslin, unless the dress is very heavy as stuff, +merino, &c., it is economical to line the skirt, as it keeps the dress +cleaner and makes it look better if turned. + + +A PLAIN HIGH BODY. + +PLATE 14. FIG. 8. + +For stout persons, indeed for the generality of figures, it is +preferable to have the fronts of the body in two pieces, with a piping +up the middle. In cutting out a high plain body, lay the material upon +the person as follows:— + +Let the selvage-way or stripe of the cloth lie in the direction from +the extreme point of the shoulder, A (see Fig. 8), to the middle of +the waist, B. In doing this, pin it at a sufficient distance from the +selvage of the material to allow of plenty to cover the front. Thus, +pin the material on at A B, which is some distance from the selvage, C +D. Stroke the material up to the neck in front and hollow out at the +neck, putting pins at C E. The front is thus thrown quite on the cross, +up the middle. Do the same on the opposite side. Hollow out towards the +arm, and cut off where it meets the side-piece. The back pieces, Fig. +9, always have the selvage up the middle, and are properly fitted to +the figure till they meet the side-pieces. + +In making up, a piping is laid along each seam, and the edges of the +lining, and the dress should be well overcast. The sleeves have piping +also round them. The backs should have broad hems, and, together with +the waist, be lined with a strong tape or calico. + + +A FULL FRENCH HIGH BODY. + +PLATE 14. FIG. 10, 11, 14. + +This body is also in two parts in front. The material is pinned for +the selvage-way, or stripe to run from the side of the neck or collar +bone, A, to the middle of the waist, B (in Fig. 10), so as to throw the +part up the front but slightly on the cross. Put strong pins in at A +B C, to keep the material firm, and then commence laying the material +in plaits (see Fig. 11), slanting from the shoulder towards the waist, +folding them much deeper at the waist than at the top; five, six, or +seven of these plaits are sufficient. In laying them along they should +be arranged so that when the last plait is formed, and the plain part +of the body pinned under the arm, the selvage-way or stripe should lie +almost parallel with, or along with, the waist (see L M, in Fig. 11). + +The backs, Fig. 14, are always selvage-way up the middle; the plaits, +about three in number, should lie from the shoulder to the middle of +the waist in a fan-like direction. They will almost form themselves +properly at the top on the shoulder, if first properly pinned on the +waist, and the material held up, and slightly pulled or shaken above +the shoulder, with one hand, while the other arranges them. They will +naturally fall in deeper folds below than above. + + +A WRAP HIGH DRESS. + +PLATE 14. FIG. 15. + +This has two fronts, to be cut out as follows:— + +Lay the merino, or other material, selvage or stripe-wise from the top +of the shoulder, A, to a little beyond the middle of the waist, so as +to throw the body a little on the cross up the middle. + +The plaits must be formed, while on the person, one after another, +slanting from the shoulder, across the middle, to the opposite side of +the waist. These plaits should be so folded, as to make the plain part, +under the arm, fall selvage-wise along the band. + +The back is made to correspond, the selvage is straight up the back, +and the material being held tightly above the shoulder at the top, +with one hand, the three or four plaits are the more easily arranged +by the other, and should be folded over more deeply at the bottom than +upon the shoulder. These plaits should exactly meet the others on the +shoulder. + +The backs and fronts join under the arm without side-pieces. In making +up, the plaits should be secured on the shoulder, with a pipe or strap, +and again secured about half a nail on each side of the shoulder. The +fronts cross, or wrap over, and are well secured to the waistband. + + +A HIGH FULL GOWN, TO OPEN IN FRONT. + +PLATE 14. FIG. 16, 17. + +These are particularly suitable for house-maids, dairy or +kitchen-maids, chair and washerwomen; they should be made of the +strongest print, at 8_d._ or 1_s._ per yard. It is bad economy to buy +a cheap poor material for a working dress, under the idea that it will +do very well for common purposes, when it is of importance that they +should stand a good deal of wear and tear. + +For a young person, the skirt is in three breadths of extra-width +print, of about eighteen nails; the seams must be sewed up, making one +come in the front, which must overlap half a nail down the whole length +of the skirt, leaving the hem or seam open for about four nails below +the waist. The body is six pieces, having one back, two fronts, two +side-pieces, and one collar. + +The two fronts are selvage-wise up the middle, and are cut as +follows:—Pin the material selvage-wise at A, and at the bottom, lay it +in plaits or fullings along the shoulder, to lie towards the waist, and +smooth the plain part to fit the shape, till it meets the side-piece, +cut it off, and hollow it under the arm. The back-piece, Fig. 17, is +in one piece with the selvage, to lie up the middle; therefore, pin it +firmly at the middle of the top, A, and at the waist just below, B. +Lay the material on each side in fullings or plaits, pinning them down +here and there, and, after arranging them at the top, along the back +and shoulders, smooth down the plain part, hollow out at the arm-holes, +and cut along the shoulders. Cut the side-piece next, and then make +a neat simple collar; one like Fig. 7, in Plate 13, would be very +suitable. In making up, after cutting out your tight lining, lay each +part of the gown upon each piece of the lining, and begin to stitch +strongly together all the pieces, laying a piping up every seam, and +over-casting the rough edges inside, to make them wear well and look +neat. The sleeves are short (see Fig. 24, in Plate 12). The collar and +arm-holes are also piped. + +Make a broad hem up each side of the front, and put the body into the +band; let the fulness be pretty even along the piping on the shoulder, +but bring it rather towards the middle of the waistband, in front. + +The fulness behind is regular along the shoulders and collar, but +drawn towards the centre of the back, at the band. Sew the body on the +skirt, put strings or bands, of the same material, of about one nail +wide, to tie the dress at the throat. The waistband is one nail deep +and about eleven nails long, and can either button or fasten with a +strong hook and eye in front. + + +A HIGH BODY, TO OPEN IN FRONT. + +PLATE 14. FIG. 18. + +This shape is often worn by elderly ladies, sometimes by servants, and +is convenient, as it enables the wearer to dress herself without the +assistance of a maid. The gown is open down the two seams at the sides +for about four or five nails, so that the front ties round the waist +like an apron, being of course well fulled in front into a band, to +which strings are attached. The slits at the sides form pocket holes. + +The body is sewed on to the skirt behind and opens in front. It has +one back, which, if full, is cut with the selvage-way or stripe to lie +straight down from the neck to the waist, but if plain, it should be +on the cross. The fronts are generally on the cross with the material +cut to lie with the stripe or selvage-way, from the extreme point of +the shoulder to the middle of the waist. The fronts are continued so as +to pin down at the waist, one across the other, over which the front +breadth or apron ties. + + +PLAIN LOW BODY. + +Pin the material with the selvage-way or stripe, to lie from the +extreme point of the shoulder to the middle of the waist, so as to +throw the body quite on the cross up the middle, which is joined with a +piping. The backs are always selvage-wise up the middle. Join the backs +and fronts with a piping on the shoulder, also at the seams, for the +side-pieces. Stitch up the plaits that are made at the bosoms. + + +ANOTHER FRENCH LOW PLAIN FRONT. + +PLATE 14. FIG. 19. + +This is in five pieces, two backs, one front, and two side-pieces. +The front is all in one piece, and in cutting it out, the material is +pinned with the selvage-way or stripe up the middle. Pin it firmly +at A and B, at the top and bottom of the middle of the body. Lay the +material along to the shoulders, and pin it down again at C. Slope +with the scissors from the point of the shoulder to a peak down at +the front. The backs are likewise cut selvage-wise up the middle, and +peaked from the back to the shoulders: the side-pieces are joined to +the front and back by a piping. Make the bosom plaits and stitch them +up. + + +VARIOUS MODES OF TRIMMING LOW BODIES WHEN TIGHT TO THE FIGURE. + +PLATE 14. + +Tight or plain bodies require some ornament or finish to set them +off, a few neat methods of putting on folds, &c., will therefore be +explained. + +Plate 14, Fig. 20, represents a plain body with the folds sewed on. +These folds are in two parts one for each side of the body in front. +They are cut crosswise and are only suitable to those gowns which are +not of a washing material, they should be from nine to ten nails wide, +and as long as will reach from the shoulder to the middle of the waist. +In making them up stitch them firmly down on the shoulder in regular +plaits, and again about a nail in front of the shoulder. Arrange them +as regularly at the waist, sewing them firmly into the middle of the +band, exactly to meet or correspond with the folds of the other side. + +Plate 14, Fig. 21, represents a plain body with loose folds upon it, +the body is made exactly like that of a petticoat, the front may or may +not be in two parts, according to pleasure, and convenience; if there +is a joining, a piping should be laid between the two parts. If the +dress is of a washing material, the folds should be the straight way, +and the cross-way if it is not. + +The straight folds are merely a piece of muslin or print, six and a +half or seven nails long and about seven nails wide, gathered at the +top, and neatly biassed two or three times at intervals of half a nail; +the upper gathering is then sewed very strongly on the shoulder, where +the front joins the shoulder-strap; the bottom is simply hemmed. When +worn, this piece is folded in large or small plaits, according to the +taste of the wearer, and neatly pinned across under the waist ribbon. +This method of making muslin, gingham, or print dresses, is very +convenient for the washerwoman. + +The loose cross-way folds are very similar. The piece of silk, or other +material, must be six nails and a half or seven nails long, and nine +nails wide. It is secured, both at the top and bottom, in the proper +folds, as in this instance no advantage can accrue from the piece being +left unconfined at the bottom, as in the washing gowns. The top is +sewed on the shoulder, and, when worn, the folds are pinned under the +waist ribbon, as in the kind described above. + +Other modes of ornamenting plain bodies are so various, it would be +endless to have plates to illustrate each—suffice it to say that bands +or rouleaux of satin, silk, gauze, &c., are often laid in various +forms. For white gowns, straps, with a neat piping at one or both +sides, are generally made; also puffings, frillings, and flouncings. +For silks, merinos, &c., satin, silk, or velvet pipings, to straps +of the same material as the gown, look well. Sometimes gaufiered or +quilled ribbon or lace is employed. For children, braid, bobbin, or +coarse netting silk is laid or worked on, in every variety of pattern. + + +A FRENCH FULL LOW BODY. + +PLATE 14. FIG. 22, 23. + +This dress is composed of a kind of plain shoulder-piece round the top, +to which the body is fulled all round. This piece is cut as follows:— + +Lay the material with the selvage-way or stripe down the middle of the +top, in front (see A, Fig. 22), to the extreme point of the shoulder, +B, and pin it firmly down. Begin to cut at E, which is at a little +distance within B, and slope it along to the middle, A, making it +a little on the cross. Cut again, according to taste, either in a +peak or slope, from B to D. The backs, which are made to accord with +the fronts, are quite straight at the bottom, but a little sloped +or hollowed at the top. The fulling for the body is cut variously, +according to the texture of the dress. Cotton, muslin, or other thin +dresses should have the fulness set in with the selvage-way up the +middle; but silk, merino, and other thick dresses are made otherwise. +This body is sometimes set in plaits, and is exceedingly pretty. In +this case, the width-way of the material lies up the middle. + + +A GRECIAN LOW BODY. + +PLATE 14. FIG. 24, 25. + +This is a remarkably pretty shape, but requires great nicety in +arranging it, to make it fit well. + +Turn up the corner of your material half-handkerchief way until +sufficiently wide, A to B, to reach amply from the middle of the top +of the body in front, across the bosom, to the shoulder. The folded +part, A C, must next be laid down the middle of the front. Pin A to +the top of the middle, and B to the shoulder, and begin to make four +or five plaits to lie in the same direction, making them swell more in +the middle than at the ends. In arranging these plaits fold in plenty +of the material, or they will not set well. Smooth the remainder to +the figure, and hollow out under the arm. As the material is double, +both sides are thus cut at once. The plaits should be secured twice or +three times on the shoulder. The backs, as usual, selvage-wise down +the middle, and a few plaits may or may not be added along the top. + + +A SIMPLE FULL BODY. + +Let the width-way of the material lie up the middle in front, and plait +it in straight regular folds from top to bottom, letting the last fold +be rather deeper, in order to throw the plain part of the body more on +the cross. These plaits or fullings should slant a little towards the +middle in a fan-like shape. + + +FULL LOW BODY. + +PLATE 14. FIG. 26, 27, 28, 29. + +This is only worn by very young persons and children. It is made nearly +like a full petticoat body. The front is in one piece, and may be +either the straight or the cross-way, according to pleasure. That in +the Plate is a good average size for a girl of ten years old. + +The pattern should be cut first in paper. Fig. 27 is the front, D being +the doubled part. The measurements need not be repeated, as they are +quite accurately given in the Plate. The reason why the front is so +much sloped at the lower part, is to make it set better than it would +do if left straight; and it is considered preferable to slope the +bottom rather than the top of the body: of course it is gathered and +sewed to the band in the usual manner. Fig. 28 is one back, and Fig. 29 +a side-piece. In making up, if the top of the body is set into a narrow +band, instead of having a string-case, the fulness should be pretty +equal all round, only making it a little plainer towards the shoulders, +but at the bottom of the waist the gathers should be drawn towards the +centre, both in front and at the back, which gives a becoming fan-like +appearance to it. + + +VELVET DRESSES. + +PLATE 14. FIG. 30. + +Velvet dresses have frequently a breadth of satin put in behind, as +velvet injures by being sat upon. The great object is to put in the +satin so that it shall not be seen when the person who wears it is +standing or walking. There are various methods of doing this. The +following is one of the best. + +The piece of satin is sewed in at the back, in addition to the full +number of breadths of velvet. After joining the breadths together, +and lining the whole skirt, the two back breadths of velvet are sewed +together at the bottom for the depth of about half a yard, the satin +being plaited up within them, and not seen at all. + +At the top the opening or pocket-hole behind is made in the satin, but +not in the velvet, as the two back breadths of velvet are left open +all the way up from the half-yard at the bottom, previously mentioned, +having the satin between them. The gathers of velvet are sewed in +the usual manner into the band, but the satin is sewed back on each +side within it, so that when the gown is unfastened the pocket-hole +gapes open, and the dress has the appearance given in Fig. 30. S, in +the Plate, means the satin, and the V, velvet breadths of the skirt. +Instead of putting in a satin breadth, some persons have the back +breadth of velvet wadded, which is said to answer well. + + +NURSING GOWNS. + +These must vary according to the pattern of the gown. In a body with +folds laid on, the openings must be made in the bosom-gore on each +side, which button up, having a fold or flap of silk behind, to prevent +any danger of taking cold. + +Sometimes a tight body may be made cut in a point from the shoulders to +one nail above the waist: over this, full loose folds, confined at the +shoulder, may be pinned over at the waist. + +A third may be made like a pelisse body, open in the middle of the +front. + + +CHILDREN’S FROCKS AND TUNICS. + +PLATE 14. + +These should be made of strong and washing materials, as children +should be allowed to have full exercise, and not be restrained from +running and rolling about, both in doors and out: for this purpose +(unless from its extreme delicacy a child requires much additional +warmth) cloth, merino, and stuffs are not good or suitable for them; +neither are silk, velvet, or gauze, as they soon become dirty and look +tumbled, and the child cannot play with ease or comfort. + +Jeans, twills, prints, Holland, and nankeen are most proper for the +morning dress, and white or coloured muslin, or fine twill, and +sometimes washing silks, for an evening. + +For children’s simple frocks, refer to the Scales belonging to the +description of baby’s frocks. + + +CHILDREN’S SIMPLE PLAIN FROCKS. + +PLATE 14. FIG. 31, 32, 33, 34. + +This is the most simple body that can be made, and equally suited to +boys and girls. + +The body is in three parts—namely, two backs and one front. + +The front is cut along the width of the material, and joins the backs +on the top of the shoulders and below the arms, so as to require +neither side-pieces nor shoulder-straps. This front lies quite plain to +the figure, but the backs are made to have two plaits and a broad hem. +This body can be ornamented in various ways, either with braid sewed +on, or by capes. A very pretty cape is made by cutting a diamond (see +Fig. 33), and hollowing it out on the inside exactly to correspond with +the neck of the frock. + +Fig. 31 represents half the body in front. + +Fig. 32 represents half the body behind, when cut out. + +Fig. 33 represents the diamond for the cape. + +Fig. 34 represents the front, when made up. + +The sleeves may be plain, like petticoat sleeves, having three frills +laid upon them, and braided at the edge. The skirt to a frock of this +size would be about nine nails, including the deep hem of two nails, +and about two and a half-breadths wide, each breadth being thirteen +nails wide. If there are pockets in front, the slits may be braided +round, and are two nails and a half deep. In making up, the body +and cape are sewed firmly together to a band at the top, which is +ornamented by two lines of braid. The skirt is evenly gathered behind, +the gathers lying close together. The remainder is laid in regular +plaits all round. + +The band round the neck is ten nails long, cut crosswise, and the +waistband ten nails long, cut selvage-wise. + + +A CHILD’S FULL FROCK. + +PLATE 14. FIG. 35, 36. + +This body is also in three parts, the front and two backs. They are +very much fulled, and are both cut the width-way of the material, so +that the selvage-way goes up the middle, both before and behind. + +For a child of three, four, or five years old, cut the body as follows:— + +Cut for each back a piece of six nails along the width-way, and two +nails and three-quarters down the selvage-way of the material. Cut +for the front a piece of thirteen nails along the width-way, and two +nails and three-quarters down the selvage-way of the material. Fold the +front in two, very evenly, and lay the two backs upon the two ends of +the double front, and pin the four thicknesses together, so as to lie +quite firmly and evenly one upon the other, as in Fig. 35. Then with +the scissors, after sloping one nail for below the arm, A B, begin to +cut, B D, for the arm-hole, cutting into the cloth about half a nail +at C. Slope from D, which is half a nail from the top, to E, for the +shoulder, letting the part, D E, be three-quarters of a nail. Hollow +down from E to F one nail, letting F to G be quite straight, for the +bosoms and backs; from G to the bottom is one nail and three-quarters +deep. + +In making up, after sewing the backs to the front and putting in the +sleeves, begin to full in the body to the band round the neck, leaving +it plain both before and behind, for about one nail and a quarter from +the sleeve. + +This band is about eleven nails long, and should be cut on the cross; +being doubled in quarters, mark the points for the middle behind and +before, and for the two shoulders. + +The waistband is also eleven nails selvage-way, and one nail and a +quarter wide. The body is gathered at the waist, exactly to correspond +with the top. + +The skirt of two and a half-breadths, of thirteen nails width, is +gathered (not plaited) all round quite evenly. The sleeves are the +usual shape (see Plate 12, Fig. 27 or 32). A braid may be laid along +the top and band, round the sleeves and the broad hem, and the whole is +completed. + + +CHILD’S SIMPLE THREE-QUARTERS DRESS. + +PLATE 14. FIG. 37. + +The body has one front and two backs. + +For the front, cut a piece of thirteen nails width-way, and two nails +and three-quarters selvage-way of the material; and the back pieces +each six nails width-way, and two nails and three-quarters selvage-way +of the material. + +In cutting the arm-holes, leave one nail and three-quarters under the +arm, and cut into the cloth three-quarters of a nail. Leave nearly +three-quarters of a nail for the shoulders. In making up the frock, +prepare a piping of ten nails and a half long, and a waistband of +eleven nails and a half. Divide the piping into four parts, and then +begin laying the plaits to go from the shoulders rather towards the +middle of the waist, as in Fig. 10, sewing them firmly with piping at +the top. The back is similar to the front. The skirt is laid in regular +plaits all round. The sleeves are fulled or plaited evenly at the +shoulder, and confined by a strap a little below it. A frill may be put +round the sleeve. + + +A CHILD’S PLAIN DRESS. + +PLATE 14. FIG. 38, 39, 40. + +This frock has two backs, two side front-pieces, and one centre +front-piece. + +The backs, Fig. 38, are cut with the selvage-way up the middle; they +are first fitted on the figure to set plainly, afterwards, allowing two +extra nails in width for the fulness, they are hollowed out for the +arm-hole, leaving one nail and a half under the arm. The side fronts, +Fig. 39, are cut a little on the cross, so that the selvage-way or +stripe leans in the same direction with the strap or piping which joins +the centre-piece. The centre-piece, Fig. 40, is cut quite on the cross, +for which purpose, turn up a piece of material half-handkerchief way, +and lay it in fourteen or fifteen regular plaits. This centre-piece, +when plaited up, should form a triangular piece of two nails deep, +three nails and a half at its greatest width, and half a nail at its +narrowest. Put a band from each side of the triangle to the back, to +confine the gathers. The front requires no band. + + +A CHILD’S FULL FROCK. + +PLATE 14. FIG. 41. + +This frock has body and skirt all cut in one piece. + +For a child’s frock, of two, four, or five years old, cut two breadths +and a half of the proper length, from the shoulder to the bottom of the +skirt. Double it in four, like a pinafore, slope for the shoulder, and +hollow it out for the arm-holes. Cut a band crosswise of the proper +length, from ten to twelve nails, and pipe it on each side; after +which, confine the top into it in regular gathers. After marking a +proper depth for the body, gather the skirt again in two rows, upon +which lay a waistband piped on each side. To this dress may be worn +long sleeves, which are piped round the arm-hole, and plaited evenly +with a strap a little below, to confine the plaits. This dress is very +pretty, when made in spotted or figured muslins or prints. The piping +should be matched with the darkest shade on the dress. Sometimes three +buttons, covered with the same as the piping, are worn on the shoulders. + + +CHILD’S MORNING DRESS. + +PLATE 14. FIG. 42. + +This looks very neat when made of Holland, and is a useful dress to +put on, for keeping the under clothes clean; it also looks well in any +other material. The skirt and body, all in one, is doubled in four, and +the arm-holes cut from the top, without sloping any for the shoulders. +A shoulder-piece is made of the proper size (see Plate 13), to which +the skirt is fulled, with a piping, in regular plaits. Set on the +sleeves also to the shoulder-piece, and full the skirt again in two +rows, on which lay the waistband, also piped. A collar or neck-band is +put on, to finish it at the neck. The sleeves are strongly biassed, +or confined by a strap, laid on regular plaits, a little below the +shoulder. + + +DRESS FOR A BOY OF FOUR YEARS OLD. + +PLATE 14. FIG. 43. + +This little frock may be worn with or without trowsers. + +The width must be regulated of course by that of the material; if +nankeen is preferred, it being only six nails wide, six breadths must +be put in. Divide it into four, cut the arm-holes and a slit behind, +put in the sleeves, and then set it in double plaits all round, behind, +and before, to a band the proper width to fit the child’s neck. On +the edge of each plait, lay a piece of silk braid, which reaches to +the waist and then turns and is brought up at the other side (see the +Plate). A runner or string-case is made inside, at the bottom of the +waist, for strings to draw, and a deep hem at the bottom of the frock. + + +A BOY’S JEAN TUNIC. + +PLATE 14. FIG. 46, 47. + +This is worn by boys of five and six years old, with trowsers of white +or some material to match the dress, which is of coloured jean or +gingham cloth. + +Cut a shoulder-piece similar to Fig. 5, Plate 13. + +The skirt is in three breadths, and when they are sewed together, it is +doubled like a pinafore, to cut out the arm-holes. It is then gathered +before and behind to the shoulder-piece, which has previously been +piped all round. The sleeves are also fulled into the shoulder-piece, +leaving sufficient plain of them to sew into the arm-hole of the skirt, +which is about one nail and a half deep. A robing is put on in the +front. The dress is braided in front, and round the shoulder-piece and +collar. The bottom of the skirt is turned up two nails and a half, and +braided above the hem. The dress is open behind. A belt is cut out, as +in Fig. 47, which is braided round each square, and fastens behind with +hooks and eyes, or buttons. The sleeve is finished with braiding. + + +SURTOUT FOR A BOY OF FIVE OR SIX YEARS OLD. + +PLATE 14. FIG. 44, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52. + +This is made of cloth, lined with silk or net, according to pleasure, +and trimmed with flat black braid. + +The body is separate from the skirt. The former is in five parts; viz. +the back, two side-pieces, and two fronts. + +For the back, Fig. 50, let your paper be four nails long, and five +nails and a half wide. Fold it in half its width, letting D be the +doubled part or middle of the back. Mark as follows:— + +SCALE. + + +-------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | From A to B | 2¼ | + | From B to C | ¾ | + | From C to E | 1 | + | From E to F | 1¼ | + | From F to G | 1½ | + | From A to H | 1½ | + +-------------+--------+ + +Cut from H to B, and from C to F. + +For the front, Fig. 51, cut your paper three nails and three-quarters +wide and five nails and a quarter long. + +SCALE. + + +----------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | From the bottom to J | 1¾ | + | From K to the side | 1 | + | From K to the top | ½ | + | From L to M | 2¾ | + | From M to N | 1¼ | + | From N to O | 2¼ | + | From P to the side | ¼ | + +----------------------+--------+ + +Slope from J to K for the arm-hole. Cut from K to M for the shoulder. +From M to O for the neck. Slope from O to P. + +For the side-piece, Fig. 52, cut your paper one nail and a half wide +and three nails long. + + +SCALE. + + +--------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | From Q to R | 1¼ | + | From the side to S | ¾ | + | From the top to S | ⅛ | + | From T to U | ¼ | + +--------------------+--------+ + +Cut from V to R, and again from R to S. Curve from S to T. The small +collar, or band, is attached to O M, Fig. 51, and F G, Fig. 50. Of +course the other side of the body is made up in a similar manner. + +The skirt must be next put together, and the back-piece, Fig. 48, being +opened, the two fronts, Fig. 49, being also opened out, C F, Fig. 48, +is sewed to G H, Fig. 49, it is then set on to the body in regular +plaits, and left open in the front. + +The body should be lined entirely with tailors’ twilled silk, and part +of the front breadths with the same, each with half a breadth of silk. +The parts should all be strongly and neatly back-stitched together, and +braid laid on all the seams of the body. The hooks and eyes are put on +between the lining and the cloth. The skirt is hemmed and braided in +front. + +The dress is worn with a broad black band. Trowsers made to button at +the side, and an under waistcoat, are worn with this surtout. + + +CHILD’S FIRST PELISSE + +PLATE 17. FIG. 45, 53, 54, 55. + +These are made of gingham, jean, cloth, merino, or silk. The former are +the best for the summer, and cloth for the winter. + +For the skirt, take three breadths of about eleven nails wide and +nine nails long. Sew up the seams, make a deep hem of one nail and +a half, on which is sewed a broad flat braid. The opening behind or +pocket-hole, should be made in one of the seams. + +The body is in three parts, besides the collar; viz. one front and two +back pieces. For the front-piece, Fig. 53, cut your paper seven nails +wide and three nails and a half long. Fold it in half its width, making +it a perfect square, and letting D be the doubled part, as in Fig. 53. + +SCALE. + + +----------------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | From A to B | ¼ | + | From the corner, B, to C | 1¼ | + | From the side to E | ¾ | + | From the top to E | ½ | + | From the lower corner to F | 1¼ | + | From the corner to G | 2 | + +----------------------------+--------+ + +Curve from A to C. Cut straight from C to E. Curve, for the arm-hole, +from E to F. Cut in a line from F to G. + +For the back, Fig. 54, cut your paper three nails and a half square. + +SCALE. + + +----------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | From A to B | ¾ | + | From B to the top | 2½ | + | From the top to O | ¾ | + | From the side to O | ¾ | + | From the corner to F | 1¾ | + | From the corner to H | ½ | + | From A to J | ½ | + +----------------------+--------+ + +Cut from J to B. Curve from B to O. Cut in a straight line from O to F. +Curve gently from F to H. + +The collar is in two parts. For each part let your paper pattern be +three nails wide and two nails and a half long. + +SCALE. + + +----------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | From N to the bottom | 1½ | + | From O to the corner | 1 | + | From J to the top | ¼ | + | From J to K | ½ | + | Leaving from K to L | 1¾ | + | From the corner to M | 1 | + +----------------------+--------+ + +Slope from O to N, and from O to J. Curve from K to M. + +In making up, sew O F, Fig. 54, to E C, Fig. 53, for the shoulder. F G, +Fig. 53, is placed against B J, Fig. 54. + +The skirt is fulled on evenly all round. The collar, cuffs, and top of +the hem may have a bordering of braid or work, and a trimming of the +same may be put down the front of the skirt. + +A cape, or tippet, is added to it, which is made separate. + + +CARE OF THE LADY’S WARDROBE. + +“Order is the best economy of time.” + +It is of great consequence that dresses should be carefully and neatly +put away, as their preservation depends much on the attention paid to +this: a gown smoothly folded, and laid by directly it is taken off, +will last half as long again as one that is thrown about upon dirty +chairs, or tumbled and creased in the wrapping up. The dresses that +are in constant use may be hung up in a closet; but those that are +only occasionally worn, should be folded up and wrapped either in a +linen cloth, or covered with the coarsest brown paper; the latter is +particularly good for white silk or satin dresses, as the turpentine +in it excludes the air, and thus preserves the colour more effectually +than any thing else. + +The best way to fold up a dress, either when put away or packed up, is +as follows:— + +Place your gown upon a bed, so that the front and back breadths, lay +one upon the other quite flatly, the back breadth being uppermost, and +the slit behind in the centre, then fold the two outer sides over, so +as to make them meet down the middle of the back; take hold at the +bottom of the skirt, and double it underneath the gown for about a +quarter of a yard deep, then fold the upper part of the skirt forwards, +to lie above it, turn back the body and arrange it and the sleeves +neatly, so as not to crush them or the trimming, turning the sleeves in +towards the middle; then take hold of the upper two folds of the gown, +and by lifting them up, the tail falls down again without displacing +the upper part of the dress: this tail or bottom of the gown is then +turned up over the sleeves and body: a pin is put in at each end, and +thus the dress may be carried about, or packed up, without tumbling +it in the least. It may be well to mention that the reason the bottom +of the skirt is turned up in the first instance, is to determine the +size to which the body is to be folded, and the reason why it is let +down in the second, is, that it may preserve the body, &c., from being +crushed. The dress may be folded to fit any drawer or trunk by wrapping +the sides more or less over each other in the middle. This is called +the French method of folding; it may appear rather complicated at +first, but by exactly following the directions here given, and a little +practice, it will soon become easy. + +To wrap up a child’s frock, place it on a bed, so that the front and +back breadths lie one upon the other quite flatly, the back being +uppermost; fold the skirt once or twice, according to the length, +letting the body lie upon the skirt, and turn the two ends over the +centre. + +After travelling, dresses are apt to be creased, they should therefore +be hung up, either in a closet, or on hooks fixed in the wall; they +should never be pinned to bed or window curtains, as this very bad +practice is apt to tear the chintz. + +Care should be taken to separate mourning from coloured dresses, winter +clothing from that worn in the summer, perfectly white articles from +those of a dark colour, as they are liable to be soiled and injured by +coming in contact with each other. + +Stains, grease spots, &c., &c., should always be taken out as soon as +possible, or they may become fixed in the silk or other material (see +Receipts). After walking in dusty or dirty weather, the dress should be +carefully wiped with a clean towel or handkerchief: if splashed with +mire, it should be dried first, and then rubbed clean with the hand and +a cloth. + +Caps or bonnets should be put on cap poles when they are laid by, but +as these take a great deal of room, it is a good plan to have hooks or +branches fixed in the wardrobe for the purpose. + +After being out in the damp, wadding or tissue paper should be put in +the bows of a bonnet, until they are quite dry, and then removed, lest +from its weight it should pull the ribbon out of shape. + +Veils should be stretched out on a bed to dry after having been worn in +the damp: if this be not done, they will dry tumbled and creased. + +Shawls should never be put away whilst they are at all damp, nor left +folded as worn, but wrapped up properly. + +For those persons who have not ample space for the number of drawers, +&c., requisite to contain their clothes, it is a good plan to have a +long narrow ottoman, settee, or sofa, without backs or ends, which is +made hollow, and to open: it might be the proper length to stand at +the foot of a bed, in a window, &c., &c. These are useful to contain +bonnets, furs, or for putting away winter or summer clothing. Plate 21, +Fig. 2, 4. + +A dressing stool might also be contrived hollow, which would hold +soiled linen, &c. Plate 21, Fig. 2. + +An exact inventory of the linen should be kept in the wardrobe or +drawers. + +Plate 21, Fig. 1, represents a very convenient wardrobe for ladies’ +dresses, heavy linen, bonnets, caps, furs, sleeves, &c., and is +contrived as follows. The centre is divided into two compartments, the +upper is enclosed with doors, and contains sliding shelves or trays for +dresses, collars, &c., the rest, consisting of drawers, contains the +heavy linen. The left hand wing has one door from top to bottom, in +which a mirror is fixed. This closet is intended for dresses to be hung +in, and the drawers below to put away furs, &c. The closet on the other +side holds bonnets in the upper part, and shoes in the lower, each part +having a door to itself. + + +GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON PACKING. + +Arrange so that your heavy linen, books, &c., shall go in strong +trunks, whilst the lighter articles may be put in boxes. + +Every leather trunk or portmanteau, should have the name and residence +of the owner engraved on a brass plate, in the middle, at the top: +these trunks should have leather or sacking cases (for the latter, +see Plate 24), to fit them: the cases are made to have an opening +just above the plate, so that if going home the person needs no other +direction, but in case he is travelling elsewhere, holes are made in +the cover all round the edge of the aperture, to which a card may be +fixed, with the address. + +The keys should each be labelled with the name of the trunk, or box, as +Imperial Portmanteau, No. 1., &c. + +No trunk should be filled so as to strain the hinges. + +Every trunk or portmanteau should have straps fixed in the inside half +way up, in order to strap down when the linen is packed over the three +flat sticks joined together with webbing, which it is usual to lay at +the top of trunks. These sticks are of great use in keeping the linen +flat and in its place. Tapes should be nailed across the top of the +trunk in the inside, for inventories, &c., to be slipped into. + +Carpet bags should be purchased with large gores at the sides, as when +thus made, they contain many more articles, and more conveniently than +when they are only two plain pieces of carpet. They should also have a +brass plate. + +When gentlemen travel much between two places, it is well to have the +brass plate moveable, and engraved with one address on each side, +so that nothing is necessary but to turn it, thereby preventing the +necessity of constantly renewing the written directions: this plate is +fastened at one end by a pivot, which is secured between the two locks +(every bag should have two locks), at the mouth of the bag, and at the +other end of the plate is a brass loop, which is fastened to the lock +at either side. + +In packing for a large family it is a good plan to keep the linen +separate by putting a towel between the layers of linen, letting each +layer consist only of the clothes of one person, so that on unpacking, +the towel containing the linen of each individual is simply lifted out, +without the trouble of looking at the marks. + +When the party sleep several nights on the road, it is advisable to +have a large carpet bag containing the night-dress of each individual +packed up in night-gown bags, dressing tidies (see plate 24), marked +with the initials of the person; by this means much trouble is saved. + +It is a good plan to sew a camphor bag to the night-gown to prevent the +attack of fleas and bugs. + +In packing, observe the following general rules:— + +First, divide the light things from the heavy ones; lay drawings, +portfolios, books, desks, boxes, shoes, and all hard flat things at the +bottom of your trunk, taking great care to fit them together, so as to +be perfectly even at the top, putting paper, or any small soft things +in the crevices; then put in a packing cloth, and on this lay flannels, +linen, &c., &c.: these things should be opened to their full extent, +and laid quite flat; in the corners, stockings, rolls of ribbon, &c., +may be put; silk or any thick dresses, folded as described above, may +be laid at the top, and the whole carefully covered with the packing +sheet tightly pinned down, and strong brown paper to prevent the +possibility of rain getting in. + +Bonnets, caps, muslin, or gauze dresses, and collars, should be put in +a box by themselves: tapes may be nailed across the box and the bonnets +or caps pinned to them to keep them steady. + +In packing a carpet bag, it is well to roll every thing _possible_ +in small compact parcels, and to put them in, very close together, +especially at the corners and ends, keeping the bag as flat as it can +be, and stretched out to its full extent, width-wise at the same time. + + +CARE OF THE GENTLEMAN’S WARDROBE. + +Above all things in a gentleman’s wardrobe, it is necessary that the +linen should be kept perfectly separate from the cloth clothes, because +the dark colour of coats, &c. comes off slightly, and would soil the +linen. + +The following is the best method of folding a coat for travelling, or +for putting away in a wardrobe, where there is not much room:— + +Lay the coat at its full length upon a table, with the collar towards +the left hand; pull out the collar, so as to make it lie quite +straight; turn up the coat towards the collar, letting the crease be +just at the elbow; let the lapel or breast on one side, be turned +smoothly back on the arm and sleeves. Turn the skirt over the lapel, so +that the end of the skirt will reach to the collar, and the crease or +folding will be just where the skirts part at the bottom of the waist; +when you have done one side, do the same with the other. Turn the +collar towards the right hand, fold one skirt over the other, observing +to let the fold be in the middle of the collar. + +It is advisable to have about a yard and a half of brown Holland in +which to wrap the coat, trowsers, and waistcoat; this will keep them +clean and free from dust. + +If a coat is new, sponge it the way the nap lies; a silk handkerchief +is a good thing to wipe cloth with, when spotted with drops of wet. + +When a hat gets wet, it should be gently brushed till dry, so as not to +crack the felt. + +Boot-stands should always be made so that the legs of the boots hang +downwards. + +When boots are packed up, they should always be put into cases (see +Plate 24), which cases should be marked in pairs. + +An exact inventory should be kept, and pasted on one of the doors of +the wardrobe. + + +MOURNING. + +It shows the best taste to make mourning as plain and as little +fanciful as possible. + +The deepest mourning is bombazine trimmed with crape; and entirely +crape, or silk and crape bonnet. + +The next is black silk trimmed with crape: silk and crape bonnet. There +is a peculiar kind of very rich silk worn only by widows, and called +“Widow’s silk.” + +A third or slighter mourning, is a plain silk dress, with either black +or white silk, or even a straw bonnet. + +Half-mourning is grey or lavender silk in a morning, and the same +or white with black ornaments in an evening: bonnet either white or +lavender silk, or straw. + +Bombazine and black silk dresses have broad hems at the bottom, or are +turned up with crape from five to eight nails deep; this is cut the +cross-way, and is put on with a crape piping at the top. The crape +should be put on double, or if economy is an object, should be lined +with black book-muslin, which makes it wear much better, than it would +do if put on single. + +The cape or collar of the dress should be either of silk covered with +crape, or of plain silk, edged with hemmed or gaufiered crape, and the +cuffs to suit. + +In very deep mourning, the collar and cuffs are made of white muslin, +covered with crape. + +Frills and caps, either for the bonnet or to wear in the morning, +should have the borders of white crape lisse, tulle, or net, with broad +hems. + +The peculiar kind of ribbon worn in mourning is called love ribbon, +and may be had either white or black; it is very plain gauze ribbon, +without any pattern on it but stripes. + +Young persons, or those who are in mourning for young persons, +frequently wear a good deal of white, as for instance, white ribbons, +handkerchiefs, and white gloves sewed with black: very young children, +only wear white frocks and black ribbons. + +For caps, collars, veils, see under their respective heads. + +It is the wisest economy in the end to buy the best or jet black crape, +it is more highly curled or craped than the blue-black, which makes it +more expensive, but it wears well to the last, whereas the other, even +when new, does not look handsome. + +The following observations may be found useful in some cases, though +they should be received with allowance, according to the circumstances +in which the individuals are placed. + +Mourning is worn for a husband or wife, from one to two years. + +For a parent, six months or a year. + +For children, if above ten years old, from six months to a year; below +that age, from three to six months; for an infant, six weeks and +upwards. + +For brothers and sisters, six to eight months. + +For uncles and aunts, three to six months. + +For cousins, or uncles and aunts, related by marriage, from six weeks +to three months. + +For more distant relations or friends, from three weeks upwards. + +It is usual for persons of large fortune to put their servants in +mourning on the following occasions:— + +At the death of the heads of the family, their parents or children, the +deepest mourning is given, as follows:— + +For women servants, one stuff or bombazine gown for best, and two black +print or working gowns, a bonnet made of silk and trimmed with crape, +muslin for collars and caps, a black silk handkerchief, black stockings +and gloves. + +For men servants, a complete suit of dress and common livery, with +hat-bands and shoulder-knots, gloves and stockings. + +For the brothers and sisters of the master and mistress of the family, +the mourning is slighter, consisting of one best and one common gown, +and no crape on the bonnet: collar, caps, handkerchief, stockings and +gloves, as above. + +In less affluent families, of course, a difference is made, as it +is a great expense to put a whole establishment into mourning, and +frequently only one suit is given. + +For infants or very young children, the nurse or immediate attendant +alone receives mourning. + +Hat-bands, scarfs, and gloves, are given to those who attend a funeral, +including servants; and also, in some counties, are sent, as well as +cake and gloves, to the intimate acquaintance and friends. + + +HAT-BANDS. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 36. + +Are worn of black or white silk by all those who attend a funeral; the +latter only, if the deceased is a young girl. They are made of the +whole width of the silk, and two yards and a quarter long; they are +laid in plaits, and then doubled in half the length, and tied together +with ribbon, so as to fit the hat, leaving long ends: these silk are +replaced by crape during the rest of the mourning. Crape hat-bands are +generally put on the best, at the mercer’s shop: they are the whole +width of the crape, which goes round the hat, and are sometimes put +on plainly, and sometimes folded in several folds. When made up, a +hat-band is from one nail and a half to three nails deep, according to +the relationship of the person to the deceased. + +Scarfs are made the whole width of the silk, and three yards long, tied +under the arm with a piece of narrow love ribbon. A scarf is worn over +the right shoulder, so that the bow comes below the left arm. Plate 20, +Fig. 37. + +Military men merely wear a piece of crape, two or three nails deep, +folded round the left arm, below the elbow. + + +HOODS. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 38. + +The hood which is worn by female mourners at a funeral, is composed of +black or white silk, book-muslin, or cambric; it is the whole width of +the silk, and is three yards long; it is made as follows:— + +Double the silk in half, making three folds in the front or part near +the face, all the way down; the back is plaited or gathered up, and the +two sides sewed together for half a yard from the top, so as to form a +kind of cap with long lappets; a bow is put on at the gathered part, +another in the middle in front, and a third on one side near the ear. +These hoods are made in pairs, because those who wear them walk two and +two; that is, the bow above the ear is put on the right side of one, +and the left side of the other. + + +A SHROUD, + +PLATE 20. FIG. 39, + +Is composed of a peculiar kind of flannel, woven on purpose, and called +shrouding flannel; it is made of a breadth and a half, full length, +so as to cover the feet; one seam is sewed up, leaving the other open +behind, like a pinafore; slits are cut for arm-holes, and plain long +sleeves, without gussets set in; the front is gathered at the waist, +and drawn up into a narrow piece; this is twice repeated, at intervals +of three nails down the skirt, upon each of these gatherings, round the +neck and at the wrists, a kind of border of the same flannel, punched +at the edge in a pattern, is plaited, and an edging of the same is made +at the bottom. + +For men, the shroud is made exactly the same as the above for women, +excepting that there is no gathering in the front. + + +CAP. + +If the usual cap is not put on, the following is made for a man:—it is +of flannel, cut exactly like an infant’s foundling cap (see Fig. 40). +A quilling of the punched flannel is put round the face, and a band of +it laid on behind, and across the top of the head, strings of the same, +are also sewed on. + + +CAP FOR A WOMAN. + +This is of flannel, cut in the shape of Fig. 41: the round part is +plaited up to form the front, and a quilling of the bordering put on, a +band of the same laid on at the back, and strings (see Fig. 42). + + +DAY CAPS. + +PLATE 15. + +Caps are made of worked muslin, lace, tulle, or blonde, and are usually +formed upon chip or wire ribbon, either silk or cotton, which gives a +firmness, and causes the cap to set better to the head. A few of the +simplest shapes are given in the Plate, and a separate description of +each is annexed; in the mean while, a few words on the general manner +of making up caps, equally applicable to all, may be found useful by +the inexperienced. + +After collecting your materials, and spreading a clean cloth upon the +table, begin to make your cap, by sewing wire ribbon on such parts as +require it, generally all round the head-piece; the crown is then put +in; if a round one, it may be either gathered or plaited—the latter +looks the best; the fulness is usually put quite in the front, letting +the part at the side of the face be plain: horse-shoe crowns are +sometimes fulled a little at the top. The joinings of caps are covered +or concealed by a narrow piping or rouleau of satin. + +When you buy stiff satin ribbon, before trimming your cap, pull it +obliquely across all the length, first one way and then the other, to +take out the dressing. + +Bonnet or other caps, made of a washing material, should have white +lambs’ wool run in the string cases, when they are sent to the +laundress, it does not take the starch so much as the net itself, and +thus the ribbons are easily run in again, on drawing the lambs’ wool +out. + +[Illustration: PLATE 15 + +Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 16 Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 29 + +Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 5 Fig 19 Fig 20 Fig 30 + +Fig 6 Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 21 Fig 22 Fig 31 Fig 32 + +Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 11 Fig 23 Fig 24 Fig 33 Fig 34 + +Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 25 Fig 26 Fig 35 Fig 36 + +Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 37 Fig 38 + +Fig 39] + + +CAP FOR A YOUNG LADY. + +PLATE 15. FIG. 1, 2. + +This is a pretty simple cap for a young lady or invalid, as it is not +liable to be crushed by lying on a sofa. + +Take a piece of paper, four nails and a quarter long, and five nails +and a quarter wide, curve out nearly half a nail from the top, A, to +within half a nail of the bottom, E, to form the part that is to set +round the face; from the corner, J to F, is two nails and a half, +cut in a straight line from E to F, and from F to H, in a slanting +direction, the point H being one nail and a half from the bottom, and +one nail and a quarter from the side; cut into the cap from H to C, +also sloping a quarter of a nail, and then round it gradually up to B. +When you cut out your cap, be careful that the net is doubled at D. + +In making up this cap, join it neatly from F to H, and then gather the +crown, B C, into the small piece, H C. Hem it from E to F, and run a +coloured ribbon into the string-case: hem or bind it in the front, and +make one broad runner, to contain a ribbon, which sets it off. A small +bow may be put at H: and any simple trimming of loops or bows between +the borders. + + +A MORNING CAP. + +PLATE 15. FIG. 3, 4, 5. + +This is easily made, takes very little material, and has a pretty +effect. The head-piece is cut all in one. + +For the pattern, take a piece of paper four nails long by three nails +and a half broad. The front, A B, is four nails; from B to C two nails +and a half. Curve from C to E, E being two nails from the top. Cut in +a straight line from E to F, at a quarter of a nail from the bottom, +and curve from F to A. The net must be doubled at D. The small circular +crown is one nail and a half across. + +This cap is made up as follows:—Wire the head-piece all round, and put +a wire also from B to C, up the front, and from E to F, up the back, +to keep it in shape. The round crown is put in quite plainly, the part +into which it fits having been previously wired. The border may then be +sewed on, and a double quilling of blonde or tulle put round the crown +at the top. Lay a piece of ribbon in the middle of the quilling, and +cover the wires up the back and front; bind it with the same behind, +and put a ribbon, which forms the strings, across the border in front. +A bow at the side, and two behind, at the top and bottom, will be found +sufficient trimming. + + +A SIMPLE UNDRESS, OR BONNET CAP. + +PLATE 15. FIG. 6, 7, 8. + +This cap is in two parts, a head-piece and a horse-shoe. To cut the +pattern of the former, Fig. 6, let your paper be four nails broad by +four nails and three-quarters long. A to B is the front of the cap. +Curve it slightly about a quarter of a nail to B, which is a quarter +of a nail from the bottom; then curve to E one nail from the side, +and from C to E is a gradual slope, D being the doubled part. For the +horse-shoe, let your paper be three nails broad by four nails long. F +and K are each half a nail from the side. Slope from F to I, which is +two nails and a half from the bottom, and then round to H, which is in +the centre. + +In making up, hem or bind the front, and put one or more runners, +according to fancy. The size here given is only measured for one. Whip +from E to C, and sew it to the horse-shoe, keeping the fulness at the +top of the cap. Hem or bind it behind, and put on the border. + + +DRESS MORNING CAP. + +PLATE 15. FIG. 9, 10, 11. + +This cap is in two parts. For half the front-piece, Fig. 9, cut a piece +of paper five nails and a quarter long and two nails wide. D is the +doubled part of the net, cut in a straight line from A to B, which is +half a nail from the side. Slope from B to C, which is one nail and a +half from the bottom. + +For half the crown, cut a piece four nails and three-quarters long and +two nails and a half wide. Slope off from the top, A to B, cutting off +half a nail. D is the doubled, or middle part of the crown. + +In making up, the head-piece is wired all round, and the crown then +set in quite plainly for two nails above the ear, and the rest plaited +in small neat plaits quite in the front: then take two pieces of wire, +rather shorter than the front of the cap, and quill upon them tulle, +blonde, or lace, similar to that of which the border is made. This +quilling should be narrower than the border, and only moderately full. +A ribbon must be laid upon the edge to conceal the stitches and the +wire. When these bands are put upon the cap, one of them is laid on +close to the crown, and the other between it and the front. The cap is +plaited a little behind to make it fit, and a small bow is put on in +the middle of the back. A ribbon, forming also the strings, is passed +over the front, and a small bow put on one side, close to the border. + +In making up this cap more simply, or as a bonnet cap, the two trimmed +bands may be omitted, and a satin or gauze ribbon merely put across the +crown and in front, with two or three loops between the borders. + + +PLAIN CAP FOR AN ELDERLY LADY. + +PLATE 15. FIG. 12, 13. + +Cut your pattern four nails wide by seven nails long. Slope off at +the top from A to B, D being the back or doubled part of the cap, and +hollow it a little at the bottom. + +In making up, run two string cases, to admit ribbon in the front, hem +it behind and pass a ribbon through, sew on the border, put a small bow +at one side, close to the front, and with strings it is complete. + + +CAP FOR A YOUNG MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF FRIENDS. + +PLATE 15. FIG. 14, 15. + +This cap is in two pieces. For the pattern of the head-piece, let +your paper be five nails and a half long, and three nails and a +quarter wide. A B is the front of the cap. From B to D is one nail +and three-quarters, and is the top or doubled part of it. Curve from +D to E, the point, E, being three nails and a half from the top. F is +three-quarters of a nail from the side and half a nail from the bottom. +Cut in a straight line from E to F, and curve from F to A. + +For the crown, cut a circle of six nails across. + +In making up, join the head-piece behind, and hem it all round with +a narrow hem, so as only to admit a bobbin, which draws it to the +proper size. The front is quite plain for one nail and a half above the +ear, on each side, and then drawn equally in the middle. The crown is +gathered regularly all round, and set in. The single border, about one +nail broad, is of the same material as the cap. A narrow hem is made at +the edge, and it is set on rather scantily. White ribbon strings are +sewed on at the ears. + + +CAP FOR AN ELDERLY MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF FRIENDS. + +PLATE 15. FIG. 16, 17, 18. + +This cap is also in two pieces. The paper pattern should be six nails +and a quarter long and two nails wide. Slope from A to B, B being +three-quarters of a nail from the corner. Slope again from B to C, +cutting off half a nail. + +For the crown, D, which is the doubled part, is five nails and a half +long. E, or the bottom of the cap, is three nails wide. Round off the +corner at the top, F. + +The front border of this cap is in one with the head-piece. The first +thing to be done in making it up, is to join a piece of the same +material, six nails long, and double the width of the border, say one +nail and a half, to the corner or ear of the cap. This is neatly hemmed +on both sides, together with the front edge of the head-piece, which +is to form the border. A frill the same breadth is sewed to each end +of the head-piece, and is joined to the long chin-pieces at one end, +and at the other end to the lower part of the crown, which is to be the +border behind. A narrow string-case is made in front, one nail and a +half from the edge, and a bobbin run in along the front to the ends of +the chin-piece. A similar string-case is also made at the lower part +of the crown, and two bobbins run in, fastened at one end, and brought +out at the opposite one, so that when drawn up they make the cap set to +the head. The crown is set in equally full along the head-piece, the +straight part being behind. + + +A BONNET CAP. + +PLATE 15. FIG. 19, 20. + +This cap is in one piece. Let your paper be four nails wide by three +nails and a half long. The front, A B, is a little hollowed, say a +quarter of a nail. D is the doubled part. E is two nails and a half +from the top, and a quarter of a nail from the side. Slope from F to +E, and from E to C, which is one nail and a half from the side, and a +quarter of a nail from the bottom. Curve a little to B. + +In making up, hem it in the front, and make three or four runners to +admit a coloured ribbon, the number and breadth of these depending on +fancy. They must be allowed for in cutting out, as the pattern here +given is not measured for any at all. Join it from E to C, either +plainly or with a piece of insertion-lace, and at the back, C B, make +another string-case. The upper part, from F to E, is gathered and drawn +together, and a bow put on to conceal the gathering. + + +A BONNET CAP. + +PLATE 15. FIG. 21, 22. + +The pattern of this cap is a square of three nails and a half. D is the +doubled part at the back. It is slightly hollowed, as in the Plate. + +In making up, hem the front, A F, and the back, F E; join it up neatly +from A to B, either with a piece of insertion-lace, with a satin +rouleau, or with a ribbon, and gather the rest, B C, up to the point, +B, where a bow of ribbon finishes it. Sometimes, as in the Plate, the +border is not carried on in the front, but, leaving about one nail from +the top of the cap, is earned back again to the ear, forming a second +frilling. + + +HELMET CAP. + +PLATE 15. FIG. 23, 24. + +This is a remarkably pretty little morning or bonnet cap, and is +generally made of tulle or lisse, as the shape is not so suitable to a +washing material. It is in three parts, the two sides and a piece let +in between them. + +To cut the pattern of the sides, Fig. 23, let your paper be four nails +long by two nails and three-quarters broad. A B is the front, which is +a little sloped. + + +SCALE. + + +----------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | From B to C | 2¼ | + | From C to the bottom | ⅝ | + | From E to the bottom | 2½ | + | From F to the top | 1 | + | From G to the corner | ¾ | + +----------------------+--------+ + +Curve from B to C. Slope upwards from C to E, and round from F to G. + +The piece let in between these two sides is about three-quarters of a +yard long, two nails broad in the front, and one nail and a quarter +behind, gradually sloped. + +In making up, the long narrow strip is gathered on both sides and sewed +to the other pieces, Fig. 23, at A, G, F, E, C, equally full all the +way. The stitches are concealed by a small satin rouleau laid on. The +front and back are then wired and bound with ribbon. The border and any +simple trimming complete it. + + +BONNET CAP. + +PLATE 15. FIG. 25, 26. + +To cut the pattern of half this neat and simple bonnet cap, let your +paper be six nails long and four nails broad. A B is the front. Curve +from B, past C to E, C being one nail and three-quarters from the +bottom and half a nail from the side, and E being two nails and a half +from the top. D is the part where the net is to be doubled. + +In making up, plait it behind in the centre, or rather large folds, +seven on each side of the middle, and wrapping the folds over each +other, so as to keep them all quite behind. Ribbon is laid on in two or +three rows in front, either simply upon the cap, or covered with net. +Bind it behind, and put on a border and some light trimming. + + +HANDKERCHIEF BONNET CAP. + +PLATE 15. FIG. 27, 28. + +This cap is formed of a half-handkerchief, cut from a square of six +nails and a half. D is the doubled part. The front is from A to B. +Shape it a little, beginning about three nails from the top, to make it +set better to the face. The extreme point, C, is rounded off. + +In making up, hem it all round, and run in a tape or ribbon behind. + + +BONNET CAP. + +PLATE 15. FIG. 29, 30. + +The pattern of half this cap is cut from a paper five nails long by +four nails broad. A B is the front, D the doubled part of the net. +Slope from B to C, cutting off one nail and a half. Allow for runners, +according to your taste. + +In making up, hem the front and back, run the string-case, join it up +the back from C to F, and hem the rest from F to the top. Run a ribbon +in this hem, which draws it up into a crown, and ties with a bow behind +at F. This cap looks very like Fig. 20, but the chief advantage of it +is, that it can be very easily ironed, as, when the ribbon is drawn out +of the crown, it is a flat piece. + + +BONNET CAP FOR A CHILD. + +PLATE 15. FIG. 31, 32. + +This is an oblong, six nails long by four nails wide. Hem it all round. +A E is the front. A ribbon is run through the hems, both in front and +at the back, B C, which draws up the cap as much as is necessary to +make it fit. + + +A CAPETTE. + +PLATE 15. FIG. 33. + +A capette is a sort of half-cap worn by young ladies, as a preservation +from cold; it is also useful as a pretty kind of evening head dress; +they are not expensive and are easily made. + +Take a piece of silk or satin ribbon, the proper length for the front +of a cap, and about two-thirds of a nail broad, along each edge hem in +a wire ribbon so as to reduce the width to half a nail, putting three +ribs or stays of wire across, to keep the ribbon its full breadth; one +should be in the middle, and one at each end: then take another piece +of wire ribbon, which is to go at the back of the head, and which is +covered with ribbon similar to the front; the length of this must be +regulated by the size of the wearer’s head, and it should be very +accurately fitted, as all the comfort, and much of the neat appearance +of the capette depends upon it setting well and closely to the shape +of the head; this back-piece should be sewed very firmly to the front, +a little above the ears. A border of net, tulle, or blonde is then +plaited on to the front, and a gauze or satin ribbon folded, and laid +upon the edge of it, so as to cover the stitches, and the foundation; +this ribbon is long enough to form strings. On the back-strap is also +laid a similar piece of ribbon, and sometimes a small bow is put in the +centre of it. The front is trimmed according to fancy, the most simple +mode generally looking the best. + +Some persons wear capettes under their bonnets, and then they are +usually made without wire, and merely bound with ribbon. + + +LAPPETS. + +PLATE 15. FIG. 34. + +Lappets are merely a double border of net, tulle, or blonde, three +nails on each side, leaving a space in the middle; sometimes they +are plaited all round, or made with a plain piece of blonde over the +forehead. The edge is bound with ribbon, the ends of which form the +strings. + + +WIDOW’S CAP. + +PLATE 15. FIG. 35, 36, 37. + +A widow’s cap is a very difficult thing to make well, and looks +particularly slovenly when ill put together; it is, therefore, often +the best economy to buy one ready-made, as there are persons who do +little or nothing else; however, as there may be some cases in which +this plan is not advisable, a pattern is given of a full sized one, and +a few words on the manner of making it up. + +These caps should be of book-muslin (not of the thinnest kind) or of +white crape. + +In the Plate, half of the crown, Fig. 35, and half of the head-piece, +Fig. 36, are represented. To cut out the former, let your paper be +seven nails and a half long, and three nails and a half wide; from the +side to A is two nails and three-quarters, from the bottom to B is +three nails and three-quarters, and from the corner to C, two nails and +a half. The doubled part of the muslin is to be laid upon D. + +For the head-piece, Fig. 36, your paper must be three nails and +three-quarters long, by one nail and a quarter broad. From A to the +corner is three-quarters of a nail, slope gradually to B. D is the +doubled part. + +In making up, after setting the crown into the head-piece, with the +fulness chiefly in the front, and hemming it behind and all round the +face, sew on the borders: these are made of the same muslin, about +a quarter of a nail deep, they are double in front, and put on very +full: after the muslin is hemmed, a short round stick is run through, +which gives a crimped appearance, and makes the hem hollow; to keep +the border in its place, a fine tape is passed through each hem, which +is tied up to the proper size; a sort of binder is then laid upon the +head-piece and meets behind; it is thus made:—take a piece of muslin, +one nail and a half broad and two yards long, make a hem at each edge +and a tuck in the middle, the same width as the hem of the borders, +pass the stick through all these hems, and run in a fine tape or +bobbin, to draw it up to the proper size. A piece is then prepared to +fasten under the chin which is three-quarters of a yard long, and broad +enough to admit of a hem, one quarter of a nail deep at each edge, no +plain muslin being left between; the stick is passed through these +hems, and a tape run in. When worn, the ends are pinned on each side at +the ears of the cap. + + +VELVET OR WADDED SILK CAP. + +PLATE 15. FIG. 38. + +This cap is very useful to wear under a bonnet, especially in +travelling. It is four nails long in the front, when folded in two, and +three nails and a half wide, it is sloped behind one nail, and rounded +about half a nail at the top. + +In making up, a lining is put into it, and a piece of wadding laid +between it and the cap: they are neatly run together down the front +and behind: a string-case is made at the back, for about half a nail +on each side of the middle, and a ribbon run in to draw it up to the +proper size. It is neatly joined for one nail and a half, and the rest +is gathered up, the stitches being concealed by a large button, covered +with the same silk. + + +SILK CAP. + +PLATE 15. FIG. 39. + +These are often worn by elderly or invalid ladies, under their caps and +bonnets. Fig. 39 is an approved shape, to wear under a cap; it is made +of silk that approaches the nearest in colour to the shade of the hair. +It is in two pieces, the one a strip ten nails long, three nails deep, +and sloped off at the ends to two nails; and the other a round cushion, +one nail and a half across, and half a nail high: the strip is joined +up at the ends, which part fits to the front of the head, hemmed all +round, and strings run in to draw it up to the proper size. The cushion +is made and filled with light sheep’s wool, and the strip or head-piece +gathered regularly to it. The use of it is to make the crown of the cap +stand up. + + +PINAFORES, SACCARINES, &c. + +PLATE 16. + +Pinafores and saccarines are worn chiefly by children of both sexes, +and of every age, also by house-maids, while making beds, or persons +engaged in particularly dusty or dirty employments. For children’s +pinafores during their earliest years, look in Plate 3, where two or +three patterns are entered, among other articles of baby linen, and +where scales are affixed for children of various ages. The following +are the other shapes most in use. + + +CHILD’S SURTOUT PINAFORE. + +PLATE 16. FIG. 1. + +This is a neat and simple pinafore for a young child, and is made of +diaper, Holland or print. + +[Illustration: PLATE 16 + +Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 + +Fig 5 Fig 7 Fig 4 + +Fig 6 Fig 10 + +Fig 8 Fig 9 Fig 14 + +Fig 11 Fig 13 + +Fig 12 Fig 15 Fig 16] + +SCALE. + + +-------------------------------+----------+----------+ + | ———————— | Child of | Child of | + | | 1 yr. | 3 yrs. | + +-------------------------------+----------+----------+ + | | Nails. | Nails. | + | Width of cloth | 12 | 14 | + | Length of cloth | 6 | 8 | + | Depth of shoulder | 1 | 1¼ | + | Slope of shoulder | ½ | ½ | + | Length of arm-hole | 2½ | 2½ | + | Depth of lappet or shoulder | 1 | 1¼ | + | Length of lappet or shoulder | 8 | 10 | + | Depth of neck-band when open | ¾ | 1 | + | Length of neck-band when open | 5 | 6 | + | Depth of band round the waist | 1 | 1 | + +-------------------------------+----------+----------+ + +The pinafore is folded in half, and again in two, to find the situation +of the arm-holes at the quarters: after sloping the shoulders, hollow +out the neck about a quarter of a nail; the shoulders must then be +sewed up, and the pinafore set into the neck-band, which is first +doubled exactly in half; this neck-band buttons behind. The sleeve +lappets are gathered near the edge, and neatly set on to the arm-hole +before it is hemmed, so that when the hem is turned down, no stitches +are seen on the right side; the lappet is then fulled at the edge a +second time, which being also firmly sewed down, makes it lie flat upon +the hem. The other edge of the lappet is hemmed, and silk washing braid +put on, to hide the stitches. The lappet should be set on to within +half a nail of the bottom of the slit of the arm-hole on each side; +little gussets may be put in at the bottom of the slit, to make it +stronger. A band is sewed on in front, of the proper length to button +behind, its proper situation is in the centre in front, and a little +below the level of the bottom of the arm-hole. Boys often wear a band +of patent leather instead, with a buckle. This pinafore is quite open +behind, being only fastened by the neck-button and the band. + + +A CHILD’S SMOCK-FROCK, OR CLOSE PINAFORE. + +PLATE 16. FIG. 2, 3. + +If for gentlemen’s children, they are made of Holland, either black +or brown, or diaper, but for the lower classes, of blue check, dark +blue linen, brown and black linen, or coloured prints. These close +pinafores are very suitable for children playing in a garden, or +for going to school in, and preserve clean frocks, or hide soiled +ones effectually. It would be well if at most large charity schools, +children attended with these kind of pinafores, which at once give them +a neat respectable appearance. + +The number of breadths is not mentioned in the scale, as the widths +of the material differ so much; but it is advisable, if possible, +to obtain it of such a width as will agree with the width of the +pinafore, to admit of their being but one, one and a half, or exactly +two breadths in it. The sleeves, collar, bands, and gussets, may be +made to cut to little or no waste, by fitting them well, one with +another, especially if the band be made in two pieces, instead of one +length. The pinafore is easily made up; after putting in the neck +gussets, the collar is set on, the skirt being regularly fulled into +it. The sleeves, &c., are all put on as in a shirt, excepting that the +wristbands are sewed up so as to form cuffs. + +Metal or bone buttons are those in general use to fasten them. The +two nails by one and a half that are over (see K), serve for covering +buttons, or make a small gusset for the slit behind, and also for the +bottom of the sleeves, if the wristband is made open. + +SCALE. + + +-----------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+ + | | First | Second | Third | + | | size. | size. | size. | + +-----------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+ + | | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. | + | Width of skirt when sewed up | 9 | 10 | 12 | + | Length of skirt | 9 | 11 | 13 | + | Length of shoulder | 1¼ | 1½ | 1¾ | + | Slope of shoulder to | ¼ | ⅓ | ½ | + | Length of arm-hole | 2½ | 3 | 3½ | + | Size of neck-gusset | 1 | 1½ | 1¾ | + | Size of sleeve-gusset | 2 | 2¼ | 2½ | + | Length of collar | 6 | 6½ | 7 | + | Depth of collar before doubled | 1 | 2 | 2 | + | Depth of slit behind | 3 | 3½ | 4 | + | Length of sleeve down the selvage | 4½ | 5¼ | 6 | + | Width of sleeve | 4 | 5½ | 6½ | + | Depth of wristband | 1 | 1¼ | 1½ | + | Length of wristband down selvage | 3 | 3½ | 3¾ | + | Depth of band | 1 | 1½ | 1½ | + | Length of band down selvage | 11 | 12 | 13 | + +-----------------------------------+--------+--------+--------+ + + +LARGE SIZED PINAFORE. + +PLATE 16. FIG. 4. + +To prevent waste, it would be advisable to cut out two at once, as +the collars, &c., will cut for both pinafores in one width. Cut two +breadths for each pinafore, and from one breadth of each, cut the +sleeves. For the collars, &c., cut off a piece of Holland, seven +nails long, and divide it according to the Figure in the Plate, first +taking off the two collars, C C, the whole length selvage-wise, and +each two nails wide; next, the four wristbands, W W, of which two cut +in the length, of three and a half nails long, and three nails wide; +afterwards the four gussets, G G, two and a half nails square, leaving +a strip, two nails long, and five nails wide, out of which cut the two +neck-gussets, each two nails square, to be afterwards cut crosswise in +half; also little gussets for the slit behind, and the sleeves, if the +wristbands are made open. + +These pinafores are made up like those before mentioned. + + +PINAFORES FOR BOYS, OF STRONG BLACK GLAZED CALICO, OR HOLLAND, AT 1s. +PER YARD. + +PLATE 16. FIG. 2, 3, + +Represents the width of the cloth on which the pieces composing the +pinafore of the smallest size are marked. + +Cut two breadths and divide one in half, from the half cut all the et +cetera according to the figure. + + S S are the two sleeves, five and a half nails square. + C is the collar, two nails by six long. + W W are the two wristbands, two nails by three long. + G G are the two sleeve-gussets, two nails square. + N N are the two neck-gussets, one nail square. + +SCALE. + + +-------------------------------------+-----------+------------+ + | | Boy of | Boy of | + | ———————— | 8 years. | 10 years. | + +-------------------------------------+-----------+------------+ + | | Yds. nls. | Yds. nls. | + | Width of material | 15 | 15 | + | Quantity for one | 1 10 | 2 0 | + | Number of breadths in each pinafore | 2 bdths.| 2 bdths. | + | Length of breadths | 13 | 15 | + | Length of sleeve down selvage | 5½ | 7 | + | Width of sleeve | 5½ | 6 | + | Length of wristband down selvage | 3 | 3½ | + | Width of wristband | 2 | 2 | + | Neck-gusset cut in half | 1 | 1½ | + | Sleeve-gusset | 2 | 3 | + | Length of collar | 6 | 7 | + | Width of collar | 2 | 2 | + +-------------------------------------+-----------+------------+ + + +CHILDREN’S SACCARINES. + +PLATE 16. FIG. 7. + +These are exceedingly pretty, if finished neatly with braid or silk, +and are generally made of Holland, either brown, or the light grey +called French Holland. They answer well as morning dresses, in which +children can run about, and work in the garden, with less danger of +tearing or dirtying their under clothes, than with frocks of lighter +materials. + +SCALE. + + +--------------------------------------+-------------+-------------+ + | | Child from | Child from | + | ———————— | 2 to 4 yrs. | 4 to 6 yrs. | + +--------------------------------------+-------------+-------------+ + | | Yds. nls. | Yds. nls. | + | Quantity for one | 1 14 | 2 2½ | + | Width of material | 12 | 14 | + | Number of breadths | 2 bdths. | 2 bdths. | + | Length of skirt | 9 | 11 | + | Length of shoulder | 1½ | 1½ | + | Slope of shoulder | ½ | ½ | + | Length of arm-hole | 2¾ | 3 | + | Length of slit behind | 4 | 4½ | + | Length of sleeve down the selvage | 6 | 6½ | + | Width of sleeve | 6 | 6 | + | Length of collar down the selvage | 6 | 6 | + | Width of collar | 1 | 1 | + | Length of shoulder-strap | 1½ | 1¾ | + | Width of shoulder-strap | ½ | ¾ | + | Sleeve-gussets | 2 | 3 | + | Neck-gussets | ¾ | ¾ | + | Length of wristband down the selvage | 2½ | 3 | + | Width of wristband | 1 | 1½ | + | Length of band down the selvage | 11 | 12 | + | Depth of band | 1 | 1 | + +--------------------------------------+-------------+-------------+ + +In making up these saccarines, the work must be very good and strong. +The hem at the bottom should be about one nail and a half deep. The +shoulder-straps and neck-gussets being put on, the slit hemmed, and +everything ready for biassing the pinafore, prepare some strong netting +silk of a colour that will wash well—black, purple, or white are the +best—and then bias the front and back in four rows below the collar. +Small spots worked on the gathers, between the rows of biassing, in +the same coloured silk, have a finished and neat effect. The sleeve is +also biassed at about a quarter of a nail below the shoulder, and at +the wrist. For a description of biassing, see Part I., Chapter I. Some +persons put coloured worsted braid over the biassing, and, if chosen of +a colour that washes well, and sewed on with crewel, it looks pretty, +and stands washing better than most kinds of netting silk. Little +pockets of Holland should be put in front, being particularly useful to +children for their handkerchiefs, &c. The wristbands, collar, and band +should have some little ornamental work, either in silk or braid, to +correspond with the rest. + +FIG. 5 + +Represents the width of the Holland on which the pieces are marked for +the largest saccarine, supposing two of them cut out together, which is +by far the most economical way. + +After cutting out the skirts, mark off and cut in one piece the two +breadths for the two pairs of sleeves, and, before dividing the +breadths, cut selvage-wise the whole length a strip two nails wide, +which will be twelve long, and form one of the bands. The two sleeves +exactly fit in the remainder of the width. Cut next another breadth of +the cloth of six nails long, and from it take, according to the Plate:— + + Two collars, C C, the whole length, and one nail wide each. + Four wristbands, W W, two in the length, and one nail wide each. + Four gussets, G G, three nails square, two in the length. + Two half bands, B B, to be sewed together to make one, each + one nail wide, and the whole length. (The other band is + already cut off.) + Two neck-gussets, N N, of two nails square, to be afterwards + cut crosswise to form the pair. + Four shoulder-straps, S S S S, of half a nail wide and one + nail and three-quarters long, and one piece over, which will + form a slit-gusset. + +FIG. 6 + +Represents the smaller saccarine on cloth of the proper width. In this +case, also, it is necessary to cut two at once, to prevent waste. + +After cutting the two skirts and two pairs of sleeves, of which two +sleeves exactly fit in the width, cut off a breadth six nails down the +selvage, and divide it as follows, according to the Plate:— + + Two collars, C C, one nail wide each, and the whole depth. + Four half bands, B B B B, one nail wide each, of the whole + length of two nails and a half, leaving one nail over. + Four sleeve-gussets, G G G G, of two nails square, + underneath which lie + Four shoulder-straps, S S, of three-quarters of a nail wide + and one nail and a half long, and two other gussets. + A strip of Holland, half a nail by three nails, remains to + bind round the slit behind, which makes it firm and durable. + + +HOUSEMAID’S PINAFORE. + +PLATE 16. FIG. 8. + +House-maids have, or ought to have, a calico pinafore to put on +when making beds, as, after cleaning grates and emptying slops, +their clothes should not come in contact with clean bed-linen and +counterpanes, lest they should soil them. + +SCALE. + + +-------------------------------+-------------+ + | | Yds. nls. | + | Quantity for one | 3 5½ | + | Number of breadths | 2 bdths. | + | Width of calico | 1 0 | + | Length of pinafore | 1¼ 0 | + | Length of shoulder | 2½ | + | Shoulder sloped to | ½ | + | Length of arm-hole | 5½ | + | Length of sleeve down selvage | 9½ | + | Width of sleeve | 9 | + | Size of sleeve-gusset | 4 | + +-------------------------------+--------------+ + +The sleeves should be left large and loose, so as to admit of the +pinafore being easily put on and off, over the gown. It is more +economical to cut out two pinafores than one, as otherwise two gussets +are wasted. + + +SCHOOL GIRL’S PINAFORE. + +PLATE 16. FIG. 9. + +Pinafores for the national and other schools are generally made +of strong blue linen check, with one or two pockets at the front +and sides, in which their knitting and needle-work are put. These +pinafores, after buttoning up the pockets, are carefully taken off +when school hours are over, folded, and locked up at the school-house. +In front, near the top of the pinafore, is sewed a square patch of +the linen, on which is marked, in red or other tape, the number of +the child to whom it belongs. The child is generally called by her +companions by the number of the pinafore, instead of being addressed by +her name, which is, in many ways, a great saving of memory, time, and +trouble. + +SCALE. + + +------------------+---------+---------+----------+----------+ + | |Girl from|Girl from|Girl from |Girl from | + | ———————— | 6 to 8 | 8 to 10 | 10 to 13 | 13 to 18 | + | | yrs. | yrs. | yrs. | yrs. | + +------------------+---------+---------+----------+----------+ + | | Nails. | Nails.| Yds. nls.| Yds. nls.| + |Width of material | 12 | 14 | 1 0 | 1 0 | + |Length of pinafore| 10 | 12 | 14 | 1 0 | + |Piece for shoulder| 1¼ | 1½ | 1¾ | 2 | + |Sloped to | ½ | ½ | ¾ | 1 | + |Slit for arm-hole | 2¾ | 3 | 3½ | 4 | + |Hollowed in front | ¼ | ¼ | ½ | ½ | + |Length of pocket | 3¾ | 3¾ | 4 | 4 | + |Width of pocket | 4 | 4 | 4½ | 4½ | + +------------------+---------+---------+----------+----------+ + + +A CHILD’S PINAFORE. + +PLATE 16. FIG. 10. + +This is made of brown Holland, or any other neat material, and trimmed +with braid or an edging, or simply piped, to give a sort of finish to +it. Take two breadths of the proper length (say twelve nails), and sew +them together up the seams, leaving two nails and a half from the top +for the arm-holes. When thus sewed, fold the skirt in half the width, +and hollow out the arm-holes, cutting into the cloth, from A to B, +half a nail. The neck is also hollowed to about one nail, from C to D, +leaving one nail and a quarter for the shoulders, which are not sewed +up, but neatly hemmed and made to button together. + +There is no slit behind, but the back is made exactly like the front, +either with large plaits, as in the figure, biassed, or gathered. A +band, sewed on in front, buttons round the waist. When the pinafore is +taken off, the shoulders are merely unbuttoned, and it falls down, as +seen on the right hand side of the figure. Lappets or frills may be +added with advantage round the arm-holes, taking care to divide them at +top, to allow of the shoulders separating. + + +A SURGEON’S DISSECTING PINAFORE. + +PLATE 16. FIG. 11. + +These pinafores are worn by surgeons over the coat, and are made high +up to the neck and down to the waist, to prevent anything soiling +the dress while dissecting and performing operations. The pinafores +are generally of black, but sometimes of grey Holland. They have two +pockets, in which to put the instruments, cloths, &c. &c. + +SCALE. + + +-----------------------------------------------+------------+ + | | Yds. nls. | + |Width of material | 1 0 | + |Number of breadths | 1½ bdth. | + |Length of pinafore | 1 6 | + |Length of sleeve down the selvage | 10 | + |Width of sleeve, or two in the breadth | 8 | + |Length of collar down the selvage | 9 | + |Width of collar | 2¼ | + |Length of wristband down the selvage | 4 | + |Width of wristband | 1 | + |Length of shoulder-strap down the selvage | 4 | + |Width of the two together before being cut | 2 | + |Size of sleeve-gusset | 3 | + |Length of arm-hole | 5½ | + |Size of square pocket | 5 | + |Distance from under the arm to the pocket-hole | 3½ | + |Slit width-way for the pocket-hole | 3 | + +-----------------------------------------------+------------+ + +The breadth and half are sewed together, the pinafore doubled as usual, +and the slits for the arms cut; after which the shoulder-straps are +sewed between, and not upon the parts forming the shoulder, taking care +to put the wide end of the shoulder-straps (which are sloped as seen +below), towards the neck. Put in the sleeves, and set the neck into +the collar. Find the situation of the pocket-hole, letting the middle +of it fall in a straight line, exactly under the arm. The slit is cut +width-way, and a piece of narrow tape is sewed round it at the edge, +and hemmed down. The pocket is _sewed_ on (but not _hemmed_) at the +inside with small stitches, and, when done, well flattened with the +finger and thumb. + +The piece for the shoulder-straps is crossed, making the narrow end +about one-third of a nail, as in Fig. 12. + +A strong case is sewed round the pinafore inside, made of 2_d._ or +3_d._ tape. Two large oylet-holes are made at the sides, and a very +long piece of tape is first drawn all round the string-case coming +out behind, and secured in front. These strings cross behind, and are +carried through the opposite string-case, as far as the oylet-holes, at +which they are brought out. The pinafore is generally put on over the +head. The strings draw round and tie in front. + +[Illustration: PLATE 17. + +Fig 1 Fig 3 Fig 5 Fig 7 + +Fig 2 Fig 4 Fig 6 Fig 8 + +Fig 9 Fig 10 + +Fig 13 Fig 11 Fig 12] + + +WAGGONER’S SMOCK-FROCK. + +PLATE 16. FIG. 13, 14, 15, 16. + +It is made of strong linen, similar to that used for sheeting, and the +biassing upon it is worked with the strongest glazed thread or cotton +that can be procured. This work must be firmly and regularly done, as +the price of these frocks depends on the quantity and quality of work +in them. + +SCALE. + + +--------------------------------------------------------+---------+ + | |Yds. nls.| + |Width of the material | 1 0 | + |Length of the body, both breadths being cut in one piece| 2 14 | + |Length of each half collar down the selvage | 6 | + |Width of each half collar | 4 | + |Length of shoulder-binding | 3 | + |Width of shoulder-binding | 1¼ | + |Length of sleeve down the selvage | 10 | + |Width of sleeve | 8 | + |Length of wristband down the selvage | 5½ | + |Size of gusset | 1 | + |Length of slit behind and before | 1¼ | + |Length of worked part in front | 5 | + |Wrist biassed up to about | 1¾ | + +--------------------------------------------------------+---------+ + +The two breadths are cut in one piece, and hollowed out at the neck +to the depth of one nail, making the hollowing, Fig. 13, from A to +B, as abruptly as possible, so that from B to C is quite straight by +a thread. After the body is gathered to the proper size, so as to +correspond with the two half collars, set them on so that the divisions +shall come behind and in front, at which places the frock itself is cut +down one nail and a quarter deep. + +The shoulders and wrists, as well as the front and back, are biassed +with strong glazed thread, in various patterns, and stitched as in Fig. +16. The plain part, between the biassing and arm-hole, is worked in +chain-stitch, as also the collar, in various patterns. + +These frocks are to be met with at clothing warehouses, and cost from +9_s._ to 18_s._ each, the price depending upon the quantity and quality +of work put on. + + +SHIRTS FOR THE LABOURING CLASSES. + +PLATE 17. + +Shirts for labouring men are generally made of the stout linen called +shirting-linen, at from 9_d._ to 1_s._ per yard. Shirts for men of +lighter occupations are sometimes of calico, with linen collars and +wristbands. Blue checks, unbleached, and striped calicoes, or prints, +are used for that purpose. + +Linen for shirts should be chosen of exactly the proper width, +according to the size wanted; and as it is an expensive article, +especially when cut to waste, six Scales are drawn upon the Plate for +six different sizes of shirts, by which the most economical plan for +cutting the shirt is seen. + +Each Scale is drawn upon the width of cloth suitable to the sized +shirt. Scales are also affixed for cutting out a set of six of the same +sized shirts, as, by a little management, and occasionally reducing or +enlarging a sleeve a quarter of a nail, or making some such immaterial +difference, the various parts of a set, take much less cloth by being +cut together. + +If shirts are made of linen, they should always be cut by a thread; +but if they are of calico, they may be torn: still, however, the +smaller parts, as gussets, straps, &c., should be cut, in preference to +tearing, as they are apt to pull out of shape. In preparing a set of +shirts, time is saved by cutting out all the pieces of the same size +together, instead of cutting first a sleeve, then a wristband, &c. It +also saves cloth to cut strips all in one length, and then sub-divide +it: for instance, when binders and sleeves are cut in the breadth, +as one is longer than the other, it is necessary to mark off the +width of the sleeve, and then cut down the whole length of the set of +sleeves, leaving the strip in one length, to be sub-divided afterwards. +The bodies should be cut each in one piece, and not in two separate +breadths. The neck-gussets are generally single, therefore, one gusset, +cut crosswise in half, forms the pair. + +Before cutting the bosom, slit, &c., of the body, observe that the +shirt should be folded in two, so as to let the front breadth be one +nail shorter than the back breadth. When thus folded, crease it by +a thread, and, after leaving the proper distance for the shoulders, +proceed to cut the slit for the neck, and down for the bosom. Next +measure the length of opening for the flaps, and for the arm-holes, and +put in pins as marks. + + +A FEW GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON SHIRTS. + +There are nineteen useful parts to a shirt, which are cut out pretty +nearly by the following rough proportions; but as the figures of men +differ materially, no exact rule can be laid down. + + 1st The SKIRT or BODY, which is cut, with + the two breadths in one piece, and should be long enough + to reach from the shoulder to the knee of the wearer. + 2nd and 3rd. The SLEEVES, which are generally about + half the length of the skirt when sewed up, and the + breadth the same. + 4th The COLLAR, which is the same length as the + sleeve. + 5th and 6th. The WRISTBANDS, each of which is half + the length of the collar. + 7th and 8th. The BINDERS, the length of a sleeve + and a quarter. + 9th and 10th. The SHOULDER-STRAPS, the same length + as the wristbands. + 11th and 12th. Two SLEEVE-GUSSETS. + 13th and 14th. Two NECK-GUSSETS. + 15th and 16th. Two HIP, or SIDE-GUSSETS. + 17th and 18th. Two WRIST-GUSSETS. + 19th One BOSOM-GUSSET. + + +PLATE 17. + +SCALE OF SHIRTS OF VARIOUS SIZES. + + +----------------------------+----------+----------+----------+ + | | Fig. | Fig. | Fig. | + | | 1, 2. | 3, 4. | 5, 6. | + | ———————— +----------+----------+----------+ + | |Child from|Child from|Child from| + | | 8 to 10 | 11 to 14 | 15 to 18 | + | | yrs. | yrs. | yrs. | + +----------------------------+----------+----------+----------+ + | |Yds. nls. |Yds. nls. |Yds. nls. | + |Quantity required for one | 2 8 | 2 11½ | 3 1 | + |Quantity required for six | 13 14 | 14 8 | 18 0 | + |Proper width of cloth | 9 | 12 | 13 | + |Whole length of skirt | 1 9 | 1 11 | 2 0 | + |Space to leave for shoulders| 2 | 2 | 2½ | + |The space for the neck | | | | + | will then be | 5 | 8 | 8 | + |Slit downwards for bosom | 3½ | 3¾ | 4 | + |Length of arm-holes | 3 | 3½ | 4 | + |Slit at the bottom for flaps| 3 | 3½ | 4 | + |Width of sleeve | 6 | 7 | 8 | + |Length down the selvage | 4½ | 5 | 6 | + |Width of binders or linings | 1½ | 2 | 2½ | + |Length down the selvage | 6½ | 7 | 10 | + |Width of collar | 5 | 3 | 3 | + |Length down the selvage | 6 | 6½ | 7 | + |Width of wristband | 1½ | 2½ | 2 | + |Length down the selvage | 2½ | 3 | 3½ | + |Width of shoulder-strap | 1 | 1 | 1 | + |Length down the selvage | 3 | 3½ | 4 | + |Size of sleeve-gussets | 2½ | 2½ | 3 | + |Size of neck-gussets | 1½ | 1½ | 2 | + |Size of bosom-gussets | ½ | ½ | ½ | + |Size of flap-gussets | ½ | ½ | 1 | + +----------------------------+----------+----------+----------+ + | | Fig. | Fig. | Fig. | + | | 7, 8. | 9, 10. | 11, 12. | + | ———————— +----------+----------+----------+ + | | Man’s | Man’s | Man’s | + | | small | larger | largest | + | | size. | size. | size. | + +----------------------------+----------+----------+----------+ + | | Yds. nls.| Yds. nls.| Yds. nls.| + |Quantity required for one | 3 4 | 3 8 | 3 14 | + |Quantity required for six | 19 12 | 21 1 | 23 0 | + |Proper width of cloth | 13½ | 14 | 15 | + |Whole length of skirt | 2 2 | 2 4 | 2 5 | + |Space to leave for shoulders| 2½ | 2½ | 3 | + |The space for the neck | | | | + | will then be | 8½ | 9 | 9 | + |Slit downwards for bosom | 4½ | 5 | 5½ | + |Length of arm-holes | 5 | 5¼ | 5½ | + |Slit at the bottom for flaps| 5 | 5 | 5 | + |Width of sleeve | 7½ | 8 | 8 | + |Length down the selvage | 7 | 8 | 10 | + |Width of binders or linings | 3 | 3 | 3½ | + |Length down the selvage | 11 | 12 | 12 | + |Width of collar | 3 | 3 | 3½ | + |Length down the selvage | 8 | 8 | 8 | + |Width of wristband | 2½ | 2½ | 3 | + |Length down the selvage | 4 | 4 | 4 | + |Width of shoulder-strap | 1¼ | 1½ | 2 | + |Length down the selvage | 4 | 4 | 5 | + |Size of sleeve-gussets | 3 | 3 | 4 | + |Size of neck-gussets | 2 | 2 | 2½ | + |Size of bosom-gussets | ½ | ½ | ½ | + |Size of flap-gussets | 1 | 1 | 1 | + +----------------------------+----------+----------+----------+ + + +PLATE 17. FIG. 2 + +Represents the best mode of cutting out six shirts of the same size as +Fig. 1. + +Cut off the bodies or skirts. + +Cut off from the breadth the strip for the twelve sleeves, being in all +three yards six nails in length, and six nails in width. + +Cut from the remainder of the breadth the twelve linings, two in the +breadth, six nails and a half long, and the twelve wristbands, two in +the breadth, of two nails and a half long, thus using up all the strip. + +Cut the other pieces as follows:— + +Two collars in the breadth, C C, six nails long, three breadths. +Nine shoulder-straps, S S, three nails long, one breadth. Three +shoulder-straps and six neck-gussets, N N, three nails long, one +breadth. Four sleeve-gussets, G G, two nails and a half long, three +breadths. The collar is very wide, and intended to turn over. + + +PLATE 17. FIG. 4. + +The most economical plan of cutting six shirts, the size of Fig. 3:— +Two sleeves in the breadth, five nails long, six breadths. Six linings, +B B, seven nails long, two breadths. Four collars, C C, six nails and a +half long, one breadth. Two collars and twelve straps, S S, six nails +and a half long, one breadth. Six sleeve-gussets, G G, two nails long, +two breadths. Four wristbands (leaving two nails over), three nails +long, three breadths. + +The remainder, two nails wide, and nine nails long, to be cut up into +six neck-gussets, N N, one nail and a half square, leaving a piece, +half a nail wide and nine long, to form the remainder of the gussets. + + +PLATE 17. FIG. 6, + +Is the most economical plan of cutting six shirts of the same size, as +Fig. 5. Take off twelve sleeves, eight nails wide, and six long, twelve +lengths. From the long strip cut two binders, in width eight nails and +a half, six lengths. And two wristbands in the width, W W, three nails +and a quarter long, six lengths. + +The whole strip is thus exactly used up. Three collars, C C, to be +three nails wide and a piece over, seven nails long, two lengths. The +piece left over of the breadth to be cut into Twelve shoulder-straps, +S S, four in the width, four nails long, three breadths. Also two +neck-gussets, N N, two nails square. Four sleeve-gussets, G, three +nails square, and one neck-gusset, N, in the width, three nails square, +three breadths. Thirteen flap and bosom-gussets, one nail square, one +breadth. + + +PLATE 17. FIG. 8, + +Represents the best plan of cutting six shirts, similar in size to Fig. +7. + + +Cut twelve sleeves, S S, seven nails and a half wide, seven nails long, +twelve lengths. + +In the remainder of the breadth, two binders in the width, of Eleven +nails long, six lengths. Twelve sleeve-gussets, G G, three nails +square, six lengths. + +After which, cut as follows:— Four collars, C C, three nails wide and +eight nails long, leaving a strip one nail and a half wide for little +gussets, one length. Two collars and six wristbands, W W, eight nails +long, one length. Three wristbands, and six neck-gussets, N N, four +nails long, two lengths. Twelve shoulder-straps, S S, four nails long, +one length. + + +A PLAN FOR CUTTING SIX SHIRTS OF THE SAME SIZE AS FIG. 9. + +PLATE 17. FIG. 10. + + +Measure off the whole length for sleeves, eight nails square, twelve +lengths. + +From the remainder of the breadth cut Two linings, B B, in the width, +of twelve nails long, six lengths. Two collars, C C, in the width, of +eight nails long, three lengths. The strip is thus exactly made up;— +Cut six wristbands, W W, in the width, four nails long, two lengths. +Four gussets, of three nails square and two nails over, three lengths. +From the piece over, cut two shoulder-straps, four nails long, and a +piece over. Six neck-gussets, two nails square in the breadth, one +length. Ten shoulder-straps in the width, four nails long, one length. +Fourteen gussets in the breadth, one nail square, one length. + + +A PLAN FOR CUTTING SIX SHIRTS SIMILAR IN SIZE TO FIG. 11. + +PLATE 17. FIG. 12. + + +Measure off the twelve sleeves, eight nails wide, and ten long, twelve +lengths. Two binders in the width, twelve nails long, six lengths. Two +collars in the width, eight nails long, three lengths. Two wristbands +in the width, four nails long, six lengths. + +The strip is thus exactly used up, after which, Cut four sleeve-gussets +in the width, three lengths. Six shoulder-straps, five nails long, two +lengths. Six neck-gussets in the width, one length. Twelve flap-gussets +in the width, two lengths. + + +EXPLANATION OF MAKING UP SHIRTS. + +Double the long piece for the skirt in two, making the front breadth +one nail shorter than the back breadth. + +Measure the proper distance from the top for the arm-holes, and the +proper distance from the bottom for flaps, and put in pins for marks. + +The skirt is usually simply sewed up, but it is preferable, especially +with gentlemen’s shirts, to make a hem the whole length of the skirt, +on each side, and then sew up between the arm-holes and flaps, firmly, +with thick even stitches. + +Proceed next to stitch the collar and wristbands. Let the stitching be +made about six threads from the edge, and carried all round both the +wristbands and collar; taking care not to pass the stitches through +both folds of them, at the opening or part, in which the fulness of the +sleeve or shirt is to be gathered. + +Next prepare the straps by turning them in, and drawing the threads; do +the same with the neck and other gussets. + +Now sew up the sleeves, putting in the large gussets, the little +wrist-gussets and gathering them into the wristbands, to prepare them +for putting into the shirts. Then put in the side-gussets, and hem +the flaps and bottom of the shirt. These gussets are fixed by sewing +them on at the wrong side of the shirt to within a quarter of an inch +less than the square, and felling the other side nearly over. The neck +gussets are next managed in the same manner, taking care to put the +stitched part on the right side. + +The shoulder-strap is then doubled in half, and slightly tacked on the +middle of the shoulder in the inside; then place each side flat on the +shirt, and stitch it in the lines that have been prepared for it. + +The bosom is then stitched; and the button-holes made, or if, as in +gentlemen’s shirts, a piece is let into the front, it must be arranged +according to the taste of the wearer. + +The lining is now neatly felled on, and the neck gathered, and set +into the collar, after which the sleeves are gathered and put in. The +bosom-bit may then be sewed in, and when the buttons are put on the +whole is completed. + +The shirt is marked about an inch below the left hip or gusset. + + +GENTLEMEN’S SHIRTS. + +PLATE 18. + +Gentlemen’s shirts are usually made of fine Irish linen or lawn, and +sometimes of long cloth. Some gentlemen wear striped calico, but +seldom, unless engaged in sporting, boating, or fishing. Gentlemen’s +sons, up to ten or eleven years of age, or persons going into hot +climates, wear strong calico, it being considered more healthful than +linen, the latter is, however, the best wearing of the two, but more +expensive. Care should be taken to procure the proper width, according +to the size wanted; and the proper quantity, according to the number +required. The Suffolk hemp is considered the best for shirting. + +Gentlemen’s shirts are cut much on the same principle, but upon a more +liberal plan than those mentioned for the labouring classes, with a few +exceptions: such as some varieties in the pattern and size of binders, +collars, shoulder-straps, &c. In most of them also, a piece of the +linen is cut out in the front or bosom, and two pieces of cambric, or +fine lawn, either plaited, or fulled in the place, to form the two +sides or half fronts to the shirt. A scale is first given of different +sizes, and then the best of the various patterns will be explained. + +SCALE. + + +---------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+ + | | 6 Years. | 8 Years. | 10 Years.| + +---------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+ + | | Yds. nls. | Yds. nls.|Yds. nls. | + |Quantity of cloth required | | | | + | for 1, about | 2 7 | 2 15 | 3 3 | + |Quantity required for six, about |14 10 | 16 4 |20 10 | + |Proper width of cloth | 9 | 9 | 10 | + |Whole length of shirt | 1 8 | 1 9 | 1 12 | + |Space to leave for shoulders | 2 | 2¼ | 3 | + |Length of arm-holes | 3 | 3¼ | 3¾ | + |Slit at the bottom for flaps | 3 | 4 | 4 | + |Width of sleeve | 4½ |6½ or 7 nls| 6 | + |Length of sleeve down the selvage| 6½ | 7 | 8 | + |Width of binders or linings | 1½ | 1½ | 1½ | + |Length of ditto down the selvage | 6½ | 8 | 8 | + |Width of collar |4 or 5 nls | 2 |5 or 6 nls| + |Length down the selvage | 6 | 6 | 7 | + |Width of wristband | 1½ | 2 | 2 | + |Length down the selvage | 2½ |3 or 3½ nls| 3½ | + |Width of shoulder-straps | 1 | 1 | | + |Length down the selvage | 3 | 3 | 4 | + |Size of sleeve-gussets | 2 | 2 | 3 | + |Size of neck-gusset | 1½ | 1½ | 1¾ | + |Length of piece to cut for bosom | | 5 | 5 | + |Width of ditto | | 3 | 3½ | + |Width of cambric to put | | | | + | in each side | | 4 | 4 | + |Width of shoulder-strap, if gored| 1½ | 2 | 2 | + |Widest width to be gored to | 1 | 1½ | 1½ | + |Width of frills if used | | ½ | ¾ | + |Bosom flap and wrist-gussets | ½ | ½ | ½ | + |Slit for bosom | 4 | 5 | 5 | + +---------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+---------+ + | | 12 Years. | 16 Years. | Men’s | Men’s | + | | | | Small | Large | + +---------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+---------+ + | | Yds. nls. | Yds. nls. |Yds. nls. |Yds. nls.| + |Quantity of cloth required | | | | | + | for 1, about | 2 14 | 3 5 | 3 9½ | 3 15 | + |Quantity required for six, about | 18 9 | 18 9 |20 11 |22 7½ | + |Proper width of cloth | 12 | 14 | 14½ | 16 | + |Whole length of shirt | 1 13 | 2 0 | 2 2 | 2 4 | + |Space to leave for shoulders | 3¼ | 3½ | 3½ | 3½ | + |Length of arm-holes | 4½ | 4½ | 5 | 5 | + |Slit at the bottom for flaps | 4½ | 4½ | 4½ | 4½ | + |Width of sleeve | 6 or 7 nls| 7 | 7¼ | 8 | + |Length of sleeve down the selvage| 9 | 9 | 9 | 11 | + |Width of binders or linings | 2 | 3 | 3½ | 4 | + |Length of ditto down the selvage | 12 | 9 | 11 | 11 | + |Width of collar |2 or 2½ nls| 2½ |2 or 3 nls| 4 | + |Length down the selvage | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 | + |Width of wristband | 3 | 3 | 4 | 4 | + |Length down the selvage | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | + |Width of shoulder-straps | 2 | 2 | 1¼ | 1½ | + |Length down the selvage | 6 | 4½ | 4½ | 5 | + |Size of sleeve-gussets | 3 | 3¼ | 3½ | 3½ | + |Size of neck-gusset | 1¾ | 1¾ | 2 | 2 | + |Length of piece to cut for bosom | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | + |Width of ditto | 4 | 5 | 5 | 5 | + |Width of cambric to put | | | | | + | in each side | 4 | 6 | 6 | 6 | + |Width of shoulder-strap, if gored| 2¼ | 2½ | 2½ | 2½ | + |Widest width to be gored to | 1¾ | 2 | 2 | 2 | + |Width of frills if used | ¾ | 1 | 1 | 1¼ | + |Bosom flap and wrist-gussets | ½ | ½ | ½ | ½ | + |Slit for bosom | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | + +---------------------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+---------+ + +[Illustration: PLATE 18 + +Fig 1 Fig 14 Fig 16 Fig 30 + +Fig 7 Fig 15 Fig 31 Fig 27 Fig 29 Fig 32 + +Fig 8 Fig 17 Fig 28 + +Fig 9 Fig 18 Fig 20 + +Fig 10 Fig 2 Fig 19 Fig 33 + +Fig 11 Fig 3 Fig 21 Fig 36 Fig 34 Fig 35 + +Fig 12 Fig 4 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 37 Fig 38 + +Fig 13 Fig 5 Fig 24 Fig 39 Fig 40 + +Fig 6 Fig 25 Fig 41 Fig 42] + + +GENTLEMEN’S SHIRT FRONTS. + +PLATE 18. + +There are various modes of making up fronts, dependant on the age +and taste of the wearer, as well as upon the changes of fashion. The +material of which the front is made, should be of a width as to allow +of the two half fronts being cut in the breadth; the length is measured +from the top of the shoulder to the bottom of the opening prepared for +it, allowing plenty to turn in at each end. The two halves having been +made up according to fancy, are put into the front, making them overlap +each other a full nail, exactly in the middle (see Fig. 2), which +prevents the slit opening and exposing the skin. The most approved +fronts, and those in general use, are the following:— + + +A YOUNG CHILD’S FRONT. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 1. + +Is generally quite plain, with a broad hem and small pearl buttons; it +should overlap half a nail. + + +A BOY’S FRONT. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 2. + +This is neatly gathered in, and at the end marked A, the fulling is set +into a band of calico or linen, according to the material of the shirt, +into which the shirt itself is also gathered. + + +AN OLDER BOY’S FRONT. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 3. + +These are usually secured in broad or narrow plaits, according to +taste, at both ends, but not stitched down the whole way. The advantage +of this is to permit of the first being pulled over when washed and +ironed, at the same time that it naturally arranges itself in regular +plaits whilst worn. The hem is sometimes made to project from the +collar to half its depth at the top, where a little corner is left, +attached to which is a button-hole which buttons it over to the other +side of the collar. + + +ANOTHER BOY’S FRONT. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 4. + +This is arranged in small neat tucks, and is more adapted to young boys +than the last. The make of this shirt differs from the others in most +particulars. The front is entire, but with false buttons, and it opens +behind, where there is a slit for the purpose in both shirt and collar. +Many boys have their shirts made in this manner, but the washerwomen +complain much of the trouble of ironing these closed fronts. + + +A GENTLEMAN’S SHIRT. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 5. + +This front is stitched down with the greatest neatness, in the most +perfectly regular plaits, either broad or narrow, according to the +fashion. The distance of the spaces between the plaits also varies +much; sometimes an equal distance with the width of the plait is +observed, at others only a half or a quarter, and sometimes the plaits +are made to overlap one another: this last mode looks heavy and common. +Either buttons or two sets of button-holes are put, to admit of shirt +studs, in which case, the buttons of one side are straight down the +hem, and the corresponding button-holes on the other side are cut +width-wise. + + +ANOTHER GENTLEMAN’S FRONT. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 6. + +This is fulled evenly at the top and bottom, and a frill of the finest +cambric, sewed on to both sides. Sometimes the front is sewed in plain, +and two frills sewed on one side, without any on the other, but this is +rather an old fashioned shirt. + + +SHOULDER-STRAPS. + +The shoulder-straps to gentlemen’s shirts vary also a little, but +the plain long strap, Fig. 1 and 7, is the one most usually approved +of, nevertheless the few following shapes will be explained, for the +benefit of those who may like to adopt them. + + +A CHILD’S SHOULDER-STRAP. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 2. + +The skirt of this shirt is carried straight up to the neck-gusset, +which alone forms the strap, while an extra neck-gusset, the same +size, is sewed on to the skirt at B, to lengthen the shoulder; this +gusset must be cut in two parts, to admit of the fulling of the sleeve +between the pieces. All the sleeve is fulled into this gusset, and the +sleeve-gusset below, forms the rest of the arm-holes. + + +A SHOULDER-STRAP FOR ANY SIZED SHIRT. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 3, 8, 9. + +Some straps, instead of being continued over the neck-gusset, are +divided, or split into two parts, for about half their length, and are +made to be laid along, the one on each side of the neck-gusset. The +piece is cut in a straight length, and merely slit far enough to admit +of the neck-gusset between. + + +ANOTHER SHOULDER-STRAP. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 4, 10. + +This forms shoulder-strap and neck-gusset at once, and has a neat +appearance. The strip of cloth must be of the proper length and width +for straps when gored, as mentioned in the Scale: after being gored, +this piece of cloth is set on the shoulder, with, of course, the wide +end towards the collar. + + +SLEEVES FOR LITTLE SHIRTS. + +Young boys often have short sleeves confined into a band, as in the +right hand sleeve of the shirt marked Fig. 1. + + +ANOTHER SLEEVE. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 2. + +This is often worn by children of the working classes, and is merely a +large gusset doubled, and sewed on double (see the right hand sleeve of +Fig. 2). + + +AN OLDER BOY’S SLEEVE. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 3. + +This is made similar to those of a regular shirt, excepting that +sometimes half a gusset only is sewed on to the sleeve instead of a +square. This is less clumsy, and with a thin arm is more comfortable, +though, generally speaking, the square gusset is the best, both for +wear and for appearance. + + +VARIOUS WAYS OF PLAITING THE SKIRT IN FRONT. + +When the part is cut out in front, a piece of cambric that is not so +wide is put in for the front, so that the skirt below the slit is full +and requires confining; this is done in various ways:— + + +Sometimes in regular fulling, as in Fig. 2. Sometimes in regular +plaits, as in Fig. 3. Sometimes in gathers, brought much in front, as +Fig. 4. Sometimes in double plaits. Sometimes in plaits, stitched down, +as in Fig 5. + + +VARIOUS SHAPES OF WRISTBANDS. + +The most common shaped wristband, and one of the neatest, is that which +is perfectly straight, and stitched neatly all round. + + +ANOTHER SHAPE. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 1, 13. + +Fig. 13 is a favourite shape, especially for boys. It is pointed; +care must be taken in stitching it, to make the right side lie on the +outside, when turned back, as in Fig. 1 (see the wristband attached to +the sleeve). + + +ANOTHER SHAPE. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 11. + +This is a very neat shape, and accords with the collar of the shirt, +Fig. 6. It is stitched all round, neat button-holes made, and buttons +sewed on. + + +ANOTHER SHAPE. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 12. + +This is remarkably pretty, and is much worn. The wristband when +unturned is nearly as wide again as its proper width, not including the +stitched hems. + + +BINDERS AND LININGS. + +Shirts should always have binders or linings, and these vary in a few +particulars. The binder is intended to strengthen that part of the +shirt brought most into play by the movement of the arms, especially at +the back, and also prevent the wear and tear of the braces. + +Gentlemen’s shirts have usually the binders very narrow, so as to leave +a pretty wide space between each binder and the front, as in Fig. 4. +It is however thought preferable by prudent wives, either to increase +the width of the binder, so as to join the front, as in Fig. 5, or else +to have a second binder or lining smaller than the first, between the +regular lining and the front (see A, Fig. 6). + + +GENTLEMEN’S AND BOYS’ COLLARS. + +These vary so very much, according to the make of the neck and chin, as +also the taste of the wearer, that only a few general patterns will be +introduced as guides. + +Many gentlemen prefer having a narrow band sewed on to the shirt, as +in Fig. 5, about three-quarters of a nail deep, on which they fasten +the collar, by letting the shirt button slip through a button-hole made +in the middle of the collar. + +Collars are always of double lawn or linen. + + +A LITTLE BOY’S COLLAR. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 1, + +is a neat finish to a shirt, being a simple broad band back-stitched, +and a fine cambric or lawn frill crimped and sewed at the top. The band +should be one nail deep, when made up. + + +AN OLDER BOY’S COLLAR. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 2. + +This is a very pretty collar also for the children of friends, being +particularly simple. It is, when made up, about two nails and a half +deep. As it falls over the jacket, observe to stitch it properly. It +would suit the wristbands in Fig. 12. + + +OTHER COLLARS FOR OLDER BOYS. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 3, + +Is merely a straight band about one nail deep, and Fig. 4 is the same a +little curved, so as to be deeper and more pointed in front than at the +back, which gives a light appearance. + + +A MAN’S COLLAR. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 6. + +See Fig. 6. This is a very neat collar, for an elderly gentleman +especially, and when made up, is about two nails and a quarter deep. +The front is curved, and rather deeper than the back (say half a nail): +to this collar should be worn wristbands, Fig. 11. + + +ANOTHER COLLAR. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 14. + +This is a neat shape, but, as it is doubtful whether it would suit +every one, it should be cut in paper, and tried on. The Plate only +represents one half, the letter A being the centre. It should be sewed +into a band. + + +A NEAT GENTLEMAN’S COLLAR. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 15. + +This is the most approved sort, and may be sewed to the shirt, or to +a loose band. The half or gills, are cut crosswise of the cloth, and +four of them make one collar, as they are double; in sewing them on the +band, two places are left to form a kind of long button-hole, through +which the strings are put when tying it on. A button-hole in the middle +of the collar, enables it to be firmly fastened to the shirt, as also +do the two strings sewed to the band. Fig. 17 is one gill, and Fig. 18, +the band. + + +ANOTHER GENTLEMAN’S COLLAR. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 27. + +This is also sewed upon a band, and is a remarkably pretty shape, if +cut according to the plan of the drawing, on which the measurements of +the nails are marked. The band, Fig. 28, has in it two button-holes; it +is about one nail deep, and eight nails long. The collar is cut all in +one length, and slit down in the middle to within half a nail of the +bottom, thus making the slit one nail deep. + + +A LITTLE BOY’S COLLAR. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 20, 21. + +These are particularly pretty collars for little boys of from six to +eight or nine. They are made of double Irish linen stitched round, and +made to fall over the dress. Frills are sometimes attached to them, and +suit young children very well; two or three button-holes are made in +them, to attach them to the shirt. A broad black ribbon is generally +worn with them round the neck. + + +A MAN’S FRONT. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 19. + +These are worn by men and boys, to put on over a soiled or tumbled +shirt, to give a neat appearance; they are, however, seldom used, it +being much better to put on a clean shirt at once. It has two sides +of fine lawn, with a front of cambric, which is plaited or gathered, +according to pleasure, with a false hem down the middle, and buttons, +so as to appear to open. This is hollowed under the neck, to the depth +of a nail; two neck-gussets are attached, of one nail and a half square. + +The gussets and front are sewed to a band or collar eight nails long, +and about one nail and a half in depth before it is made up. + + +A BOY’S CHEAT OR FRONT. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 23, 24, 25. + +This is a kind of habit-shirt, to which a collar with a frill is +attached. Fig. 23 is the collar, which should be neatly stitched, and a +frill of fine lawn or cambric, half a nail in the whole depth, set on +round it. Fig. 24 is the habit-shirt of the dimensions marked on the +Plate, and Fig. 5 is the cheat completed, when sewed together. + + +A GENTLEMAN’S STOCK. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 26. + +Gentlemen’s stocks are worn round the neck over the collar, and are +made of stuff, muslin, horse-hair or buckram: the Figure is the shape +of half of one. The halves are sewed firmly together up the centre (see +M); they are bound round the edge with leather, and covered with satin, +mode, or rich twilled silk. They are sometimes made, as in Fig. 29, +with a fold of silk in the middle, through which two ends are passed; +these are of one piece of silk, cut the cross way, and are four nails +broad, and seven nails long, rounded a little at the ends. + + +CRAVATS. + +They are generally made of fine muslin, and are the shape of a half +handkerchief, being cut from a square of eighteen nails. + + +CLERGYMAN’S DRESS. + +The cassock, the gown, the surplice, the badge or sash, the scarf or +hood, and the bands, constitute the chief. + + +THE CASSOCK. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 34, 35. + +It is made sometimes of stuff, sometimes of rich black silk, in the +following manner:—Cut four breadths of silk, one yard and a half long +each. Two breadths form the front, and are sewed together; after which, +a gore is cut from each outer side, the width of half the breadth at +the top, sloped to a point at the bottom, by which means, when reversed +and the seams are sown, the front is increased at the bottom to three +breadths, while at the top it is reduced to one. + +The other two breadths form the back; they are gored in the same +manner, excepting that the gore is only a quarter of a breadth wide at +the bottom. + + +The shoulder is hollowed down two nails. The shoulder is two and a half +or three nails long. The arm-hole is three nails deep. The arm-hole is +cut into the stuff one nail. The collar is six nails long, four nails +wide behind, and two nails wide in front. + +The sleeve is shaped like a coat sleeve, with two seams down it, +three-quarters of a yard long, and the whole width of the silk, which +just admits of its being shaped off in the width. The wristband is four +nails long, and about two nails wide. The pocket is six nails long, and +just the width of the breadth of silk, which, when doubled, forms it. + +In making up, run and fell the seams very neatly, making the two gores +fall together between the front and back breadths. + +The hem down the opening in front, is half a nail broad. + +The back has a piece of sufficient width cut out from the top, A, to +the waist, B (Fig. 35), to admit of its setting plain to the figure, +and from the waist the skirt is left open; the extra fulness may be +confined in two large plaits behind. + +The top of the front is cut on each side to a point, and on each point +is a little loop or button-hole; one loop fastens to a button inside +near the collar, see A (Fig. 34), and the other outside, to a button at +the opposite side of the neck (see B). + +The collar is sewed on to the back of the cassock, so as to leave off +on each side, just at the turn in front, thus allowing plenty of space +for the bands. The pocket is put in straight, under the right arm, +about four nails below the arm-hole (see the dotted line, Fig. 34). + +The sleeves are lined with black twilled cotton, the wristbands are +also lined and turned up. + +A cross-way piece of silk is laid on at the bottom of the collar of the +cassock inside, and also in front at A B (Fig. 34). + + +THE GOWN. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 36, 37, 38, 39, 40. + +This is made of fine bombazine, and contains four breadths, of nineteen +nails long, and four gores of the same length, and three nails and a +half wide at the bottom, sloped to a point at the top. + +Two of these breadths fall behind, next are sewed the two gores, one on +each side, and then the one breadth to hang in front on each side. + +The sleeves are one yard long, and, when open, thirteen nails wide. At +the end they are shaped according to Fig. 39, 40: the end, A B, being +but three nails wide, and a piece cut out at C, at four nails from +A. At five nails from the shoulder, a slit is made in front (see S), +through which the arms appear, whilst the remainder of the sleeve is +sewed up all round. At the back of the sleeve, two gores of one nail +and a half wide, and two nails and a half long, are put in. + +The shoulder-piece is cut according to Fig. 36. + +The distance from A to B being three nails, and the depth of the sides, +C to E, D to E two nails and a half, while that in the middle is only +one nail and a quarter. + +In making up, after sewing the seams, &c. together, and making a hem +of about one nail broad all round, the two back breadths of the skirt +should be fulled into the middle of the shoulder-piece. This fulling +is biassed down at about the distance of one nail and a half below the +first gathering. The two gores are set in on each side into the sleeve, +which is set into the shoulder-piece, and also biassed; the other +breadth comes in front. + +The shoulder-piece is lined with buckram and silk, or black glazed +calico, to make it more durable. + + +THE SURPLICE. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 32, 33. + +This is made of fine Irish linen, one yard wide, and has in it four +breadths of one yard and a half long; two breadths being behind, and +one on each side of the opening in front. Besides these four breadths, +a gore, three nails wide and carried up to a point, is put between the +front and back breadths, up to below the arm. + + +The straight part of the gore comes in front. The sleeve, Fig. 33, is +one yard and one nail long, and the whole width of the linen in the +breadth. The sleeve has two gussets in it; that in front of the sleeve, +or nearest the wrist, is thirteen nails square; the other gusset, which +also forms part of the arm-hole, is five nails and a half square. + +The collar is thirteen nails long, and five nails and a half in its +whole width. + +In making up, run and fell the seams, letting in the gores, observing +to put the straight part in front. Hem down the fronts half a nail +deep, and at the bottom one nail. The sleeve is very peculiar, and +requires attention in making up (see Fig. 32, 33). The large gusset +is put into the sleeve towards the wrist, so as to hang down very low +below the arms. This gusset is rounded off at the corner, A; and forms +the other corner of the gusset, B, along the doubled part, B A, cut +open a piece large enough to admit of the small gusset being sewed into +it; D is the doubled part of each gusset. The whole of the top of the +sleeve is gathered up into the neck at the collar, while part of the +side of the sleeve and the small gusset form the part that fits into +the arm-hole of the surplice; the skirt is all fulled into the collar, +together with the top of the two sleeves, and then nicely biassed down +in two rows below the collar. + +The collar is stitched all round like that of a shirt. + + +THE SASH OR BADGE. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 30. + +It is made of rich black silk or satin. + +It is the whole breadth of the silk in depth, and three-quarters of a +yard long. It is folded in three or four regular plaits until it is +about two nails broad; these plaits are confined at the ends by sewing +them to double pieces of silk (see A), which are cut out two nails +square, and rounded off at the outer ends, to a half circular form. +Strings of ribbon of 3d. width, are sewed to these ends, which tie +round the waist. + + +THE SCARF OR HOOD. + +This is made of silk, but of such various forms, depending on the +degree of the wearer, and the college where he has been educated, that +it is needless to enter upon the subject in detail. + + +THE BANDS. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 31. + +They are made of the finest cambric, and are about two nails deep, and +one nail wide when hemmed. The hem being a quarter of a nail deep. They +should be a little hollowed at the top, to fit the neck. The two bands +are sewed to a tape in the inside, which ties round the neck. + + +THE CLERK’S GOWN. + +PLATE 18. FIG. 41, 42. + +The clerk’s gown is made of black stuff or calimanco. + +Cut four breadths of about one yard and a half long; these breadths +when sewed together, leaving one open for the front, are biassed +behind, from the middle of the second to the middle of the third +breadth; this biassing is in three rows from the collar, the first row +being one quarter of a nail below it, and the two others at one nail +distant from each other. + +The shoulders are next sloped from the remainder, like those of a +pinafore, being three nails and a half long, and sewed up. The arm-hole +is cut into the front breadth at the distance of one nail beyond the +first seam, and is five nails long. The shoulder-flaps are one nail and +a half deep, by five long. + +The sleeve is the whole width of the breadth, about six nails wide when +doubled, and is fifteen or sixteen nails long; at six nails from the +top, the slit is cut in the sleeves of two nails deep on each side of +the top of the arm. The bottom of the sleeve is sewed up together, and +when done, instead of sewing them as the sleeve would naturally lie, +the stuff at the bottom is differently folded, so as to make the two +creases lie together, and thus distorts or twists the sleeve. + +Strings are put to the collar, which is cut like Fig. 13, Plate 16. A +broad hem is made in front, and at the bottom. + + +CHILDREN’S BONNETS. + +PLATE 19. + +The first bonnet for infants after the hood (see Chap. 4, in +baby-linen), should be soft and warm, and till they are two or three +years old, children should wear them of cloth, merino, silk, satin, +print, or calico, in preference to straw, or pasteboard. Bonnets should +be light but warm, and for young children especially, should have +little trimming or ornament. A few pretty and simple shapes for both +the upper and lower classes are here given and explained. + + +SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD SIX YEARS OLD. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 1, 2, 3. + +This may be made of cloth, merino, chintz, or nankeen, with cotton +runners. It is in three parts, the brim, front or poke, the crown, and +the round patch. + +Cut first a paper pattern the whole size of each part of the bonnet, +the Plate represents but half, therefore double the paper and cut it by +the figure. Your paper must be five nails wide by four long, for the +poke, Fig. 2. + +Measure along the top, A B, two and three-quarter nails, the point, C, +is exactly half way down the side, two nails from the top and bottom; +the point, G, is two nails from the side, and one and a half nails from +the top; curve along B G C. E is two and a half nails from the corner; +from C to E, must be gradually sloped or rounded: go on, sloping it +easily, up to F, which is one and a half nails from the top; from F to +A, is quite straight. + +The crown comes next; your paper must be four nails square, when +doubled at D. From the corner to H, is half a nail, from H to I, two +nails, slope gradually to K, which is two and a quarter nails from the +top: cut in a straight line from K to L, which is situated two nails +from the corner, and again in a straight line from L to M, one and a +quarter nail from the bottom. From M to H, is slightly curved. The +patch is made to fit the crown. + +[Illustration: PLATE 19 + +Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 + +Fig. 4 Fig. 5 Fig. 6 + +Fig. 7 Fig. 8 Fig. 9 Fig. 10 + +Fig. 11 Fig. 12 Fig. 13 Fig. 14 Fig. 15 + +Fig. 16 Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Fig. 19 + +Fig. 20 Fig. 21 Fig. 22 + +Fig. 23 Fig. 24 Fig. 25 Fig. 26 + +Fig. 27 Fig. 28 Fig. 29 + +Fig. 30 Fig. 31 Fig. 32 + +Fig. 33 Fig. 34 Fig. 35 + +Fig. 36 Fig. 37 Fig. 38 Fig. 39 + +Fig. 40 Fig. 41 Fig. 42 Fig. 43 + +Fig. 44 Fig. 45 Fig. 46 Fig. 47 + +Fig. 48 Fig. 49 Fig. 51 + +Fig. 50 Fig. 52 + +Fig. 53 Fig. 54 Fig. 55 + +Fig. 56 Fig. 57 + +Fig. 59 Fig. 60 Fig. 58 + +Fig. 61 Fig. 62 Fig. 63 + +Fig. 64 Fig. 65 Fig. 66] + +In making up, a lining is cut out exactly the size of the outside, run +the two together on the wrong side, at the edge of the brim, and turn +them; then run cotton cords between the lining and the outside, as in +the Plate, and two or three are put round the edge to give it firmness: +runners are also made in the crown and the patch, the latter having a +cord all round it, and they are then sewed strongly together, the part, +H M, fitting into B G C, and the patch into I K. A curtain, one nail +and a half in depth, is put on rather full behind, and strings of the +chintz, or calico neatly hemmed, or of ribbon will complete it. + +The size here given is for a child five years old, but it is a useful +kind of bonnet for those much younger. + + +CHILD’S DRAWN BONNET. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 4, 5, 6. + +This is usually made of silk, satin, or glazed calico. + +The poke or front (Fig. 5), is an oblong, which is cut two or more +nails down the selvage, according to the depth desired, and of such a +length (cut width-way of the material), as will be two and a half times +the length from ear to ear. This oblong is hemmed at each side, and +bobbins put in to draw it up: two runners are made at equal distances +between to draw up. The crown or head-piece, Fig. 6, is in one piece, +and is also an oblong, about one nail deeper than the poke, and a +fourth longer. Make runners down each side, and three or four equal +distances between. + +In making up the bonnet, the poke is drawn up to the proper size, and +a double piping laid round it. The crown is then formed by drawing up +the first runner as close as possible, and the second sufficiently so +to make it flat and circular. The remainder is drawn to the proper +shape to form the head-piece, being less drawn at each succeeding +runner to make it wider at the bottom. Lay on a band of silk piped at +each end, and sew it firmly round, and then attach the poke to it. Next +make a soft lining to the head-piece, and a circular piece of wool in +muslin may be attached to the crown, to keep it in shape. A curtain and +strings complete the bonnet. A quilling of ribbon round the edge, and a +rosette at the side, give a greater finish. + + +SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD SEVEN OR EIGHT YEARS OLD. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 7, 8, 9, 10. + +This is a remarkably neat little bonnet; it is in four parts. The +poke is a plain piece two nails and a half deep, by ten nails and a +half long, sloped off at the outer edge one nail and a half at each +end, it is ornamented with cotton runners, quilted or braided; cut a +strip, Fig. 8, nine nails long by one nail and a half wide, which must +have a runner at each edge, and the same in rows across, to give it +firmness, if it is not quilted or braided; the third part is another +strip sixteen nails long, and three nails and a quarter wide at the +widest part, sloped off nearly to a point at each end, Fig. 10; the +horse-shoe, two nails and a quarter long, and one nail and three +quarters broad at the top, is lined and has a cord run all round the +edge. The curtain is one nail and a half deep, put on rather full. + +In making up, sew the quilted poke or front strongly to the straight +strip, Fig. 8; gather the sloped strip, Fig. 10, at each edge, set +it on one side into the straight piece, and on the other into the +horse-shoe, fulling it more in front than at the sides. Put on the +curtain, and the bonnet is finished. It draws up behind to the side of +the head; here it is represented as undrawn. + + +SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD TWO YEARS OLD. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 11, 12, 13, 14, 15. + +This is well adapted for a child’s first or second bonnet, and looks +well, made of coloured kerseymere or Indiana braided or worked in +chain-stitch. + +To cut out the poke, take a piece of paper, which when doubled is four +nails long by two and a half nails wide (see Fig. 12), the doubled +part from D to B, is two nails long; slope off gradually from A to E, +beginning the greatest sloping at F, which is about half way down the +side; the point E is one nail and a half from the corner, continue +sloping to C, which is about one nail above the bottom of your paper; +the curve, B C, is parallel to, or even with the curve, A F E. The +head-piece, Fig. 13, is cut from a paper, which when folded is three +nails long and two broad; from G to H, the doubled part, is one nail, +from G to L, two nails and a quarter; cut a slightly curved line from +L to K, the point K, being half a nail from the corner, next cut quite +straight to J, being three-quarters of a nail above the angle or +corner, sweep gradually from J to H. Fig. 14 represents half the crown; +D is the doubled part, and is four nails long from M to N; the part +from N to O is four and a half nails, the rest from O to M, is cut like +a quarter of a circle. Fig. 15 is the part that supports or holds up +the crown behind, the doubled part, U P, is two nails and a half long, +from U to T is two nails and a quarter, curve it gently about half a +nail; from the corner to T is half a nail; from T to S is one nail and +a half, S being half a nail from the side of the square; the top of R, +the next vandyke is two nails in a straight line from the bottom. These +vandykes are about one nail deep. + +The Plate shows sufficiently clearly how this bonnet is made up, to +dispense with any further description, except to say that the crown, +Fig. 14, is evenly gathered into the head-piece, Fig. 13, and the +back-piece, Fig. 15. The curtain is put on, strings and a small bow may +be added behind. + + +SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD THREE YEARS OLD. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 16, 17, 18, 19. + +This bonnet is very generally worn; the one represented in the Plate +is for a little girl about three years old, though older and younger +children would find it both suitable and comfortable; it is made of +cloth, print, or nankeen, lined, and with runners in every part. It is +in three pieces; to cut out the poke, Fig. 19, take a piece of paper, +which, when folded in two, is four nails long and two nails and a +quarter broad. D is the doubled part; from A to B is three nails, it is +slightly curved; A being about one quarter of a nail from the top and +half a nail from the side, next cut in nearly a straight line to C, and +continue the curving to E, which is half a nail from the corner; from B +to E, in a straight line, is two nails and a quarter; cut in a straight +direction from E to F, the latter being one quarter of a nail above the +corner; from A to F is one nail and three-quarters. + +The head-piece, Fig. 17, when doubled (D being the folded part), is two +nails and a half long, and two nails at the deepest part, which is to +go in the front, sloped off to one nail and a half for the back. The +crown is merely a horse-shoe; Fig. 18 is two nails and a half long, one +nail and three-quarters at the top, and sloped off one quarter of a +nail on each side, so as to make it only one nail and a quarter at the +bottom. + +In making up, the runners may be put in simply as in the Plate, or +arranged in a pattern, or the bonnet may be quilted, but there must be +two or three runners round the edge, and inner part of the poke, at the +top and bottom of the head-piece, and all round the horse-shoe. + +Put on a full curtain of one nail and a half deep. + + +BONNET FOR A CHILD FOUR YEARS OLD. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 20, 21, 22. + +This is a neat little bonnet with a stiff front, and is cut out as +follows:— + +For the pattern of the front, Fig. 20, let your paper, when folded in +two, be three nails and a half long, by three nails broad, it may be +rounded or left square at the ends, according to fancy, D being the +doubled part; this front or poke is made of stiff pasteboard. + +The crown, Fig. 22, is seven nails long at the doubled part, D, and +six nails long at the bottom, A B, cut in a straight line, A F, for +two nails, and again straight, F E, for three nails, then round it +gradually up to C. + +Before making up, cut out two pieces of calico, print, silk, or other +material, the size of the poke, Fig. 21, then run them neatly together +at the edge, and up the ends, and slip the pasteboard in; hem the +bottom of the crown, Fig. 22, A B, and up the ends, A F, for the +curtain. Hem from F to E, and make a runner about half a nail within +the edge up to C, through which a bobbin must be passed, and drawn up +to the width of the poke; it must be sewed strongly to the outside +of the front, letting the little frill lie over it, as in the Plate, +forming a sort of trimming; the lining of the poke must be only turned +in, and slightly tacked down, so that the pasteboard may be easily +taken out when the bonnet is washed. A runner is made across the back +of the crown, about two nails above F E G, through which tapes are +passed: the ends of the lower ones are sewed a little way along the +poke, and when the bonnet is fitted to the head, these runners are +drawn to the proper size. Put on hemmed strings of the same material. + + +SOFT BONNET FOR A CHILD, THREE, FOUR, OR FIVE YEARS OLD. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 23, 24, 25, 26. + +This is a school child’s common bonnet, it may be made of print, +gingham, or nankeen, and is in three parts. The head-piece, Fig. 24, +when folded in two, is seven nails long, and three nails wide at the +doubled and widest part, D, sloped off to one nail and a half at the +bottom. The poke, Fig. 26, when doubled, is two nails and a half broad, +by three nails and a half long, and a little rounded from A to B. Fig. +25 is the horse-shoe, two nails long, and two nails broad at the top, +sloped off to one nail and three-quarters at the bottom. + +In making up, the front is wadded or quilted, with a cotton runner +at the outer edge, and two or three at the inner edge, to give it +firmness; a runner is also put in round the horse-shoe. The front of +the crown is gathered evenly to the poke, the horse-shoe set in, and a +curtain set on behind. + +When worn, the front of the bonnet is turned up, as in the Plate. + + +ANOTHER SOFT BONNET FOR A YOUNG CHILD. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 27, 28, 29. + +This is also a school child’s bonnet, and may be made of any soft or +washing material. + +Fig. 29 represents the poke, which, when doubled at D, is three nails +and a half long, by three nails wide. The crown, Fig. 28, is six nails +wide at the bottom, and seven nails at its longest part, rounded off +on each side; three runners are made at the bottom of it, about a nail +apart. + +The poke is quilted, wadded, or run with cotton, and the crown sewed +to it, rather fuller in the centre in front, than at the sides; the +runners are drawn up, and tied at the proper size, and upon the lower +one a curtain, one nail and a half or two nails deep, is set, and +extends a little on each side upon the ends of the front or brim. + + +HATS AND CAPS. + +PLATE 19. + +Hats and caps for young boys should be made of soft materials, similar +to bonnets for little girls; as they become older, their hats must +of course be stronger and stiffer; some of both sorts will here be +described, as well as travelling and other caps for grown-up persons. + + +PORRINGER CLOTH CAP. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 30. + +This is an extremely simple cap for young boys; it is made of cloth +or merino, and consists of three pieces. The band, which is merely a +piece of cloth half a nail deep, and sufficiently long to go round the +child’s head, say, eight nails and a half, or nine nails long; the +head-piece, which is also about nine nails long, before being joined +up, and one nail and a half deep, is made with runners in an upright +direction or across the cloth at regular distances, which give a degree +of firmness to the cap; the round patch or crown is about one nail and +a half across, with a runner made round the edge of it. When made up, +it should be lined with demet or flannel and soft calico. + + +SOFT HAT FOR A YOUNG CHILD. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 31, 32. + +This little hat looks very pretty made of glazed cambric muslin or of +calico, either white or coloured; if wanted for winter wear, it may be +made of merino, cloth, or kerseymere, plain or braided. + +For the brim, Fig. 32, cut a circle five nails across, with a hole in +the centre of it two nails across, for the head, a little may be sloped +off from the back, or not, according to pleasure; the crown is one nail +and a quarter deep, and nine nails long before it is joined up, and the +circle or patch is made to fit exactly. When the hat is made of glazed +calico, it is lined with the same, and runners of cotton put in, either +simply or in a pattern. A strap or ribbon is attached on each side, +from about half way up the crown to about half the breadth of the brim, +to keep it up and in its place. Strings are sewed at the inside. + + +SOFT CAP FOR A YOUNG BOY. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 33. + +This cap is made of glazed calico, white or coloured, or of any other +soft light material, with runners in it; the brim is cut in the shape +of Fig. 39, it is four nails and a quarter long, one nail and a half +broad at the deepest part, sloped off as in the Plate; the crown is one +nail and a quarter deep, and from eight to nine nails long before being +sewed up; the circle of course is made to fit it. + + +ANOTHER CAP. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 34. + +This is only a variety of the preceding cap; the brim is cut like Fig. +35, and is four nails long, and one nail deep, at the broadest part in +front, sloped off at the ends; the Plate shews the way in which the +runners are put in. + + +CAP FOR AN INFANT BOY. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 36, 37, 38, 39. + +This is a remarkably pretty cap for an infant, after he has left off +his hood; it is made of white or coloured satin, kerseymere, or merino. + +The brim, Fig. 39, is four nails and a quarter long, one nail and a +half deep, and sloped as in the Plate, the head-piece is a full nail +deep when folded in small plaits, and eight nails and three-quarters +long before it is sewed up; the little flap or piece behind, Fig. 38, +is about one nail deep; the longest part of it, or that to be turned +up, is two nails and three-quarters long; that fastened to the hat is +one nail and three-quarters; it is sloped at each end. The square or +top of the hat, is two nails and a half every way; four other pieces +must be cut one nail deep, and two nails and three-quarters wide at the +top, sloped at each side down to two nails at the bottom. + +In making up, take a piece of buckram of the size of the head-piece, +lay it upon a demet or thin wadding, and flute the kerseymere upon it, +putting a fine silk cord, or a piece of coarse stay or netting silk +between the flutes. + +The crown must next be prepared; ornament the square according to +fancy, working the pattern in spots, either in braid, or in stay or +netting silk; line this also with buckram, demet, and silk, to each +side of the square, sew the widest side of each of the four pieces +above described, these pieces having previously been lined, as before +mentioned, sew the corners of the four firmly together, inlaying a +piping; the head-piece is then put on, next set on the back-piece, Fig. +38, this is lined with silk or satin, in the following manner:—After +the buckram is put in, the lining is sewed to it, and not being sloped +at the narrow end of the kerseymere, it allows of being fulled or +plaited at the part nearest the hat. The brim is finished in the same +manner, the satin lining being plain at the edge, and gathered to the +head-piece; it has also demet and buckram within the lining, and is +worked in a similar manner to the square, upon the front or turned up +part, which is of kerseymere. Put a silk, calico, or muslin lining into +the head, and a silk tassel at the left corner of the square; a satin +rosette in front, and strings complete the cap. + + +BOY’S CAP OF FIVE OR SIX YEARS OLD. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 40, 41, 42, 43. + +This cap is made of cloth or Holland; the crown, Fig. 41, is fourteen +nails long, and three nails deep; the band, Fig. 42, is eight nails +long, and half a nail broad; the brim or edge, Fig. 43, is eleven nails +long, and one nail deep. + +In making up, the crown, Fig. 41, is wadded and lined, it is then +gathered evenly into the band on one side, and into the small circular +patch or button on the other; the band, Fig. 42, is lined with flannel +as well as calico; the brim, which is wadded and lined, has a piece of +buckram put within the lining, it is sewed on so as to turn up and set +rather round. A tassel or bow of ribbon may or may not be added at the +top, according to pleasure. + + +CAP FOR A BOY SEVEN OR EIGHT YEARS OLD. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 44, 45, 46, 47. + +This looks neat made of Holland, with a piping of dark blue, green, or +the same colour. + +The top of the crown is in eight pieces, cut out of a circle, five +nails across; this will make each division two nails and a half long, +and two nails at the broadest part, sloped to a point, and the shape +of Fig. 46. The side of the crown is in four pieces, Fig. 47; to cut +these, make another circle the same size as the top, and in the centre +of it cut a smaller one, two nails across, then divide the circle into +four parts. The band is about one nail broad, when made up, and nine +nails long, before it is joined at the ends. + +In making up, sew the eight pieces together, laying a coloured piping +between them, and putting a button at the top; the four sides, Fig. +47, being previously lined with buckram, demet, and glazed calico, are +then each sewed to the circle thus formed, one of the sides fitting to +two of the smaller pieces at the top; they must be sewed on the wrong +side very firmly, and turned down, so that the stitches are not seen on +the outside, the ends of these four pieces being piped, are then sewed +together. The cap is now ready for the band, which, after being wadded, +is stitched on, and the whole is finished. + + +CAP FOR A BOY, SIX OR EIGHT YEARS OLD. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 48, 49, 50. + +This is a simple cap and easily made; it consists merely of two pieces. + +The crown is a circle of eight nails across, lined and wadded, which is +equally gathered all round, and set into a band, which is one nail and +a half deep, and nine or ten nails long before it is joined up, Fig. +50: this band is also wadded, and a bow of ribbon may be put on one +side. + + +CAP FOR AN OLDER BOY. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 53, 54, 55, 56. + +This is a remarkably neat cap, and may be worn by either a boy or a +man; it is generally made of cloth. + +The circle at the top is five nails across, the side part is cut out +of a circle in the same manner as that of Fig. 45, the outer circle +being five nails across, and the inner one two nails; this circle is +divided into four pieces; the band, Fig. 56, is one nail and a quarter +broad, and eleven nails long before it is sewed up; the peak, Fig 55, +is generally made of patent leather; it is part of a circle, five nails +across, and is one nail and a quarter deep at the broadest part. + +In making up, the circle is first lined with flannel and then with +silk; it is stretched over a strong but not very thick wire at the +edge, to keep it in shape, and a piping of cloth put on all round: the +sides, Fig. 54, are then lined with soft leather, and sewed to the +circle on the wrong side, before being joined together; the seams are +next sewed up, and a thin hoop of whalebone put at the bottom of these +sides, just where the band is to be joined on, round the head; the band +is firmly stitched to it, which band is also lined with thin, but not +very pliable leather: the peak is then put on; a lining of leather one +nail and a quarter deep is sewed in the inside, to the inner part of +which, a piece of silk is attached, with a string-case and cord to draw +it up to the size of the head. Sometimes a band of black velvet, or of +silver or gold lace is laid upon the cloth one, sometimes it is left +quite plain. The strap under the chin is of patent leather, fastened at +the side with a small buckle. + + +GENTLEMEN’S TRAVELLING CAP. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 57, 58. + +This is a particularly comfortable cap, and is easily made. It is +composed of fine cloth of any dark colour, trimmed with fur. + +Make a circle, seven nails across, and cut it into six parts; the +brim is made either of patent leather, or of cloth, it must be three +nails and a half long at the straight part or bottom of it, one and +three-quarters of a nail deep at the broadest part, and rounded +off at each end: the flaps or pieces for the ears are also one and +three-quarters of a nail deep at the broadest part; they are cut in one +length with the band, which goes behind the cap, and is one nail deep; +the whole length, including the ear-flaps, is seven nails. + +In making up, first join with a piping of the same, all the six +divisions of the crown, fastening them at the top with a round button, +and put in a lining of wadding, stiffened muslin, and any dark coloured +silk; sew all these round the edge, and then put on the brim or peak: +this, when of cloth, is made of two pieces the same size and shape; +run them together at the edge on the wrong side, with a piping between +them, turn them to the right side, put in a piece of stiff muslin, and +a thin wadding, sew it on to the front of the cap at the edge, and +again half a nail above, so that, though it can be pulled down over the +eyes, it usually remains turned up, as in Fig. 57: the band behind, +with the ear-flaps, is then sewed on; this is a piece of cloth, with +a strip of dark fur or velvet laid on it, so that when the strings of +the ear-flaps are tied under the chin, the fur lies against the throat +and ears, and when not required, the strings are tied on the top of the +head, the velvet or fur forming a kind of trimming to the cap. + + +A LADY’S RIDING CAP. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 59. + +This is made of velvet, and is simply a straight piece, a yard long +and about eight nails deep, lined with flannel or wadding, buckram and +silk, which is joined up at the two ends, and gathered on the one side, +under a small flat silk or gold button, and on the other, into a velvet +band, one nail deep, and made to fit the head. A silk bow and tassel +(see Fig. 51) are put on at the top, and ribbon strings fasten under +the chin, or not, according to pleasure. + + +A TRAVELLING CAP. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 60. + +This is a soft cap, and is generally made of cloth. It is formed of a +circle, eight nails across, cut in eight parts, which are joined with +pipings of the same, and fastened at the top with a knot or tassel. +The crown is lined in a similar manner to Fig. 58, and the band, which +must have buckram within the lining of silk or soft leather, is firmly +stitched to it. + + +A NEAT BOY’S CAP. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 61. + +This is made of cloth or Holland. The top is a circle of five nails +across, the head-piece is nine nails long, and one nail and a half deep +when made up, it is plaited in very small exact folds, and therefore +before it is made up, it must be four nails and a half broad: the brim +or peak is of patent leather, and the strap under the chin of the same. + +In making up, the top or crown must be wadded, stiffened with buckram, +and lined: the head-piece is then prepared, by being folded, and the +folds stitched upon a piece of stiff buckram, the proper length: the +crown is sewed to it, the peak and strap put on, as in the Plate. + + +A TRAVELLING CAP FOR GENTLEMEN OR LADIES. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 62, 63. + +This is a very simple, and at the same time, a very good looking cap: +it is made either of velvet, or of fine cloth, and when doubled, as in +Fig. 62, forms nearly a square. + +To make it, put in a wadding and lining, join it up behind, A B, make a +string-case, A C, through which a silk cord must be run, which draws it +up to the shape of a cap, and trim it round the edge or brim with some +rich fur. The advantage of the string-case at the top is, that when not +in use, it will pack quite flatly and take up little room. + + +THE WORKING MAN’S CAP. + +PLATE 19. FIG. 64, 65, 66. + +Fold a sheet of common brown paper to make a workman’s cap, as follows:— + +Let it be a square of ten nails, double it across like a +half-handkerchief, and crease it well; open it and cross it again the +other way, open it again, double down the middle one way, and crease +it well; on spreading it out, it will be marked according to the lines +in Fig. 65. Measure from the centre on the cross lines, about one nail +and three-quarters (see A B C D), next crease the paper from side to +side through these points, thus:—one line through A B, another through +C D, and again C A, and D B; this will form a square in the middle. Cut +out a nail square at every corner, as in Fig. 66. + +In folding it up, the square, A B C D, in the centre, forms the top of +the cap, and the points, E F, are doubled according to the crosswise +plait, and crossed in front towards each other, the other points, G H, +are likewise crossed behind towards their opposite ends. The cap is +then formed by merely turning up a piece all round to make it stand +firmly. (Fig. 64.) + + +WOMEN’S BONNETS. + +PLATE 20. + +Bonnets being, like gowns, dependent in a great measure on the fancy +and whim of the day, will only be treated of as to the general modes of +making them up, and a few of the very plainest shapes given. + +Bonnets are made of velvet, plush, satin, silk, crape, book-muslin, +chip, gingham, and glazed calico. + +The foundations are either pasteboard, buckram, stiff muslin, or willow. + +Bonnets are kept in shape by means of wire, chip, or whalebone. + +They are lined either with the material of which the bonnet is made, or +with some other, lighter or warmer, according to taste, and the time of +the year; but care must be taken that the colours either harmonize or +decidedly contrast. When the lining is white, a sheet of tissue paper +is put between it and the bonnet, whether it be of silk, or only of +straw; this makes the white material, whatever it may be, look a much +purer colour than it otherwise would do. A piece of demet or of thin +wadding should always be laid between the foundation and the silk, or +other material of which it is made, unless that material is very thick. + +Bonnets may be lined with ribbon in the following manner:— + +Take a piece similar to the trimming, and long enough to be run plainly +to the outer edge of the bonnet all round, the other side of the ribbon +is finely gathered, and being drawn up to the size of the inside of the +bonnet, it is neatly sewed to it, forming a kind of border or trimming. + +When a bonnet is lined plainly, or the cross-way, it takes half a yard +cut crosswise. If a curtain is required in addition, three-quarters of +a yard, cut the straight way, must be purchased. + +In fitting your lining, lay it across the bonnet, so that as little as +possible is wasted or cut off at the corner; put small pins all round +the edge, and the inside also, so as to keep it in its place, cutting +off the superfluous quantity and then sew it, concealing your stitches +as much as possible between the lining and the bonnet. + +To line a bonnet the straight way, so that, though plain at the edge, +it is a little fulled or plaited into the crown, about three-quarters +of a yard is required, influenced of course in some degree, both by the +depth of the poke and its width. This lining is very easily put in; sew +it round the edge on the wrong side as far as the ears or rounded part +of the bonnet, by which means the stitches are quite concealed, then +turn it, and sew the rest as neatly as you can; the lining looks the +best plaited into the crown; to do this equally, begin in the middle, +making a perfectly straight fold, the rest on each side should incline +a little to the centre, and be very small and regular. + +Bonnets may be trimmed in a great variety of ways with the material of +which they are made, cut crosswise and either hemmed or lined, so as to +form a kind of ribbon, with velvet, plush, satin, silk, crape, gauze, +muslin, or ribbon. + +[Illustration: PLATE 20. + +Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 21 Fig. 22 Fig. 23 + +Fig. 4 Fig. 5 Fig. 6 Fig. 25 + +Fig. 7 Fig. 8 9 Fig. 9 Fig. 24 Fig. 26 + +Fig. 10 Fig. 11 Fig. 12 Fig. 27 Fig. 28 + +Fig. 13 Fig. 14 Fig. 15 Fig. 29 Fig. 30 Fig. 31 + +Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Fig. 16 Fig. 32 Fig. 33 Fig. 34 Fig. 36 + +Fig. 19 Fig. 20 Fig. 37 Fig. 38 Fig. 35 Fig. 40 Fig. 41 + +Fig. 45 Fig. 49 Fig. 51 Fig. 52 Fig. 39 + +Fig. 42 Fig. 46 Fig. 48 Fig. 53 + +Fig. 43 Fig. 44 Fig. 47 Fig. 50 Fig. 54] + +Bows to be worn in front, or at the side, are generally made up and +sewed upon a piece of wire ribbon, which gives them firmness, and makes +them keep in their place and shape. + +Velvet or plush trimmings are generally lined with satin or silk of the +same shade. The colour of the ribbon, if not an exact match with that +of the bonnet, should be darker. + +Curtains may be made either of the material that lines the bonnet or +ribbon. For the former, the silk or satin is cut the cross-way, and is +from one nail and a half to two nails deep; it is hemmed at the edge, +and sometimes a straw plait or silk cord is laid on above the hem; they +may be either plaited on to the bonnet in large full plaits, or hemmed, +and a piece of ribbon, exactly the length that the curtain is to be, +run in; this looks better than the plaiting, and does not so soon +become flattened. + +Ribbon curtains are made in two ways, the one by merely plaiting or +gathering a straight piece of ribbon, and hemming the ends; the other, +and much the prettiest method, is also the most complicated. Fold the +end of your ribbon down like a half-handkerchief, Fig. 13, and cut it +off, thus leaving a cross-way end; fold it again, straight down the +ribbon, measuring it so as to be doubled the same depth top and bottom, +thus forming a piece like Fig. 14: cut off a number of these pieces, +which must then be run very flatly together, so that the cross-way +parts of the ribbon are at the top and bottom, and the border or edge +lies in oblique or slanting lines across the curtain, Fig. 15, 16; one +end will be pointed or sloped outwards, in order to make the other like +it, the half square cut off at first, must be joined to it. The number +of pieces of course must depend on the breadth of the ribbon, the whole +curtain should be about three-quarters of a yard long; when the parts +are joined together, hem your curtain top and bottom, running a ribbon +in at the top, in order to full it properly to the bonnet. + + +OLD WOMAN’S BONNET. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 1, 2, 3. + +This is a comfortable shape for an old woman, and is very easily made. +It is in two pieces, the front or poke is made of pasteboard, covered +with silk or any dark coloured material. To cut the pattern of it, +take a piece of paper, four nails and a half square when folded (see +Fig. 2), let D be the doubled part, and round it off gradually at the +corner, A. The crown is cut out according to Fig. 3. + +SCALE. + + ++----------------------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From +B to C the doubled part | 8 | | From B to G | 8½ | | From G to F +| 2 | | From F to E | 4 | | Then slope gradually to C from E | | ++----------------------------------+--------+ */ + +In making up, having previously cut out two pieces the proper size to +cover the poke, one for the outside, and one for the lining, run them +together on the wrong side, round that part which is to form the edge +of the bonnet, leaving open that which is to be sewed to the crown, and +slip the pasteboard into it: then begin the crown, Fig. 3, hem it at +the bottom and make a runner from F E to H, and another, one nail or +one nail and half above it, and put in a string; set the front of the +crown, C E, on to the poke, either in gathers or small plaits, draw up +the runners behind to the proper size to fit the head, and fasten them; +sew each end of the curtain a little way on the ends of the poke as in +the Plate; put a ribbon on across the front, and strings, with a bow at +the top; one may be added behind, at pleasure. + + +BONNET FOR A MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF FRIENDS. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 4, 5, 6. + +These bonnets are made of black, white, grey, or fawn coloured silk. +They are cut out as follows:— + +For the pattern of the poke, Fig. 6, let your paper be doubled at D, +which part must be four nails and a half long; from A to B is three +nails and three-quarters; slope off the front at the corner. For the +crown, Fig. 5, let the doubled part, D, be eight nails long, and from C +to E is four nails and a half; it is gradually sloped from F, as in the +Plate. + +In making up, run the pieces cut for the outside and lining together +at the edge, on the wrong side, and having turned them, slip in the +pasteboard; plait the front of the crown into the poke in very small +exact folds, leaving it quite plain for some distance above the ears; +make a narrow runner behind of one nail and a half in depth, to form a +curtain, and put on ribbon strings the same colour as the bonnet. + + +A NEAT BONNET FOR A SERVANT. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 7, 8, 9. + +To cut out the poke of this bonnet, Fig. 8, which is of pasteboard, +take a doubled piece of paper, five nails wide, by four nails and a +half long, letting D be the doubled part. + +SCALE. + + ++-----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From A to B | 2 | | +From A to F | 1 | | From the corner to E | 3 | | Above the corner to C +| 2¼ | +-----------------------+--------+ */ + +Curve from B to C, slope from C to E, round from E to F. + +The foundation of the crown, Fig. 9, is of buckram, or willow; let +your doubled paper be three nails and a half wide, by four nails and a +quarter long; D is the doubled part. + +SCALE. + + ++----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From the corner to C +| 2¾ | | From the corner to H | 2¼ | | From the corner to I | 1½ | | J +above the corner | 1 | +----------------------+--------+ */ + +Curve from G to H, cut from H to I, and from I to J. + +The circular top or patch, is cut to fit the bonnet. + +In making up, cover each part with silk, laying a thin piece of +wadding between the silk and the foundation, then sew them very firmly +together, with strong silk or waxed thread, and put a Persian or muslin +lining in the crown. Silk cut the cross-way and laid in moderate sized +plaits may be folded round the crown of the bonnet, which has a very +neat appearance. The more simply it is trimmed, the better it looks; a +ribbon across, to form strings, and one bow behind or at the side, is +quite sufficient. + + +A SCHOOL GIRL’S BONNET. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 10, 11, 12. + +To cut out the poke, Fig. 11, when laid open, let your paper be eight +nails wide, by seven long. + +SCALE. + + ++-----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From A to S is | 3¾ | +| From S to B | 2½ | | From T to C | 4 | | Above the corner to E | 1½ | +| From the side to F | 1 | | From the top to F | 2¼ | | From Z to Y | +3½ | +-----------------------+--------+ */ + +Cut from F to E, round from F to C, and from C, through Y, and B, to A, +curve A Z F. + +The crown or head-piece, Fig. 12, is thus formed; let your paper be six +nails wide, by seven nails and a half long. + +SCALE. + + ++----------------------+--------+ | | Nails. | | From H to G +| 2¼ | | From the corner to G | ¾ | | From the corner to K | +2½ | | J is from the corner | 1 | | From the corner to I | 2 | ++----------------------+--------+ */ + +Slope G to K, shape according to the Plate from K to J, cut from J to +I, curve from I to H. + +The top or circle is cut exactly to fit this crown. + +This bonnet is made of glazed calico; the poke is of pasteboard. If +many of them are required, it is the best economy to cut out all the +pokes at once, and then all the crowns, as they will fit into each +other. Make it up as follows:— + +After joining the two ends of the head-piece, wire and sew the circle +into it, then tack the calico on the crown or circle; then tack a piece +of calico outside the head-piece, piping it up the joinings; run on the +lining of the poke, after which the outside cover is put on and tacked +strongly at the edge; the trimming will conceal the stitches; sew the +trimming, which is merely a cross-way hem one nail deep and piped to +the inside of the edge of the poke with small stitches, then turn it +over on the outside and sew it neatly down to the upper calico, taking +care not to go through the pasteboard. Fasten the poke to the crown, +and then put in the lining, making it to draw, and sewing it on the +inside. The trimming, piping and bow, are all cut the cross-way; the +strings are half a yard long, cut straight. One bonnet takes one sheet +of 3_d._ pasteboard, and about one yard and a half of 4_d._ glazed +calico, including the trimming; with the wire it comes to 9_d._ prime +cost. + +For winter wear, it is desirable to line both poke and crown with +wadding or flannel. + +A neat simple trimming for children’s bonnets, is made as follows:— + +Cut strips of glazed calico, one nail wide, fold them so that the raw +edges shall lie at the back; making each strip somewhat less than half +a nail broad, and then with a long needleful of coloured thread, run on +the right side of it, up and down in vandykes; when done, draw it up, +and it forms a pretty sort of edging. + + +OILED SILK HOODS. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 17, 18. + +These hoods are convenient for persons who travel much, or go +excursions in open carriages, as a protection against rain; they are +made of oiled silk, either black, or light coloured, the former looks +best. + +The shape is very simple, the hood consisting of four parts: the front +is a straight piece, one yard long, and six nails and a half broad. The +horse-shoe, Fig. 18, which is rather a different shape to the usual +one, is six nails and a half long, four nails wide at the top, and five +nails at the bottom; the curtain or tippet is half a yard deep, and one +yard and three-quarters long; the band is one nail broad, ten nails +long. + +In making up, the head-piece is run to the horse-shoe quite plainly, +and the front, or part round the face is hemmed or bound; it is then +set into the band, the horse-shoe being plainly put in, and the rest +plaited in small folds; the curtain is sewed on in small plaits all +round, the band lined with silk or ribbon, and a large hook and eye or +chain is put on. The curtain is either hemmed or bound all round. + + +CALÈCHE. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 19, 20. + +These are worn by ladies who walk short distances to evening parties, +and are better than a bonnet as they do not crush or disturb the cap or +head dress. + +A calèche is best made of dark silk or satin, and lined with the same +colour; it is in three parts. The front, or head-piece, is seven nails +and a half wide, and one yard long; the horse-shoe, Fig. 19, is five +nails and a half long by four nails and a half broad, at the widest +part, sloped down to four nails at the bottom; the curtain is one yard +and a quarter long, and one nail and a half deep. A lining is cut out +exactly similar to the outside; and it is made up as follows:— + +Run the edges of the head-piece and lining together on the wrong side, +and turn them, put in a piece of whalebone the whole length of the +front, viz:—one yard, about half a quarter of a nail broad, and run +on the other side of it, to secure it, leave a space of one nail and +a half broad, and make a runner the proper width to receive a second +whalebone, and then, leaving the same distances, make runners for two +more; the spaces between are quilted, as in the Plate, to give a little +firmness to the whole. + +Between the fourth whalebone and the outer edge is an interval of two +nails and a half, and this is not quilted like the rest. The horse-shoe +is then made, the outside and lining being run together, a whalebone +is put in, (see Fig. 19), at the edge, and again another, one nail +within. The head-piece is then gathered (the rough edges of both the +satin and lining being turned within, so as to make it perfectly neat +at the inside), and sewed to the horse-shoe, the fulness being chiefly +towards the top. It is then gathered at the neck, and bound with +ribbon, or a piece of the same material, which form a string-case; and +the curtain is set on, lined or not, according to pleasure. A ribbon, +about one yard long, is sewn on the front of the calèche, three nails +from the bottom on each side, forming a kind of loop, by which to hold +it forward when it is worn. + + +CLOAKS. + +PLATE 20. + +Cloaks may be made of satin, silk, cloth, merino, shawling, both the +real and the imitation, Scotch-plaid, Orleans or common stuff. The +choice of materials is of course influenced by the purpose for which +the cloak is intended to be used; for instance, carriage or travelling +cloaks are plain of a thicker substance, and have less work in them +than those used for walking in. + +Satin cloaks have frequently a velvet cape or collar, sometimes they +are trimmed with broad velvet hems, laid on all round, or with fur, and +occasionally lined with fur also. Silk and merino cloaks may likewise +be trimmed with velvet, cut or uncut, plush or fur, and lined with the +same, or they may be made perfectly plain. As a silk cloak is at all +times a costly article of dress, and, with care, will last a long time, +it is worth while to have the silk a very good one; it should be soft +and rich, not liable to crease: levantine, satinette, or satin silk, +are the best; and the colour should be one that will not easily fly, +change, or spot; dark shades generally look the best, as black, violet, +myrtle-green, or deep marone. + +Satin, silk, and fine merino cloaks should be lined with sarsenet, +either the same colour, or some well chosen contrast: but as these +sarsenet linings cost a good deal for a full sized cloak, two old silk +gowns, nicely picked to pieces, and either washed or dyed, would be a +good substitute, where economy is an object: when this is done, it is a +good plan to turn a deep hem of the outside silk over the edge, on each +side in front, or it is better still to let the two front breadths of +the lining be of new silk. + +Cloaks may either be simply lined with a piece of flannel between the +silk and the lining, which makes them light and suitable for walking +in the autumn and the spring, or they may be lined and wadded; this +is done by laying breadths either of thin flannel or lining muslin, +cut the same size as the breadths of silk on a table, and placing upon +them sheets of wadding, so as to cover them entirely; then with a long +needleful of thread, the wadding should be tacked or basted in wide +stitches backwards and forwards in sort of vandykes upon the muslin or +flannel, in order that it may always keep in its place, which otherwise +it would not do. The flannel with the wadding thus sewed to it, is then +put between the two silks and the seams run up. + + +LADY’S SILK CLOAK. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 21. + +It consists of six breadths of silk, the proper length to fit the +person for whom it is made, i. e. from the collar-bone to the top of +the shoe. Cut a shoulder-piece the shape of Fig. 1, or 4, Plate 13, +making it to fit, with flannel and silk lining to suit; next cut a +collar, Fig. 7, Plate 13, with a stiff muslin and silk lining; then cut +the cape, Fig. 15 and 16, Plate 13, with only a silk lining. + +In making up, having laid the lining and wadding together as described +above, run up the seams; cut the arm-holes one nail and a half from the +seam between the first and second breadths, and two nails and a quarter +below the shoulder-piece; each arm-hole is three nails and a quarter +long. + +The shoulder-piece is next made, by running the silk and lining +together, with the wadding and flannel between them on the wrong side, +and then turning it to the other; the three back breadths of the skirt +are then hollowed out to fit the shoulder-piece, next full the whole +into the shoulder-piece, letting the two front breadths, reach to the +shoulder only, while the rest is sewed to the back. A hem one nail and +three-quarters deep of cross-way velvet, cut or uncut, or an edging of +fur may be put on, up the fronts according to pleasure. The back is +then plaited in behind, at a proper distance below the shoulder-piece, +to suit the waist, say four nails, and a band long enough to go round +the waist is laid upon these folds, and drawn through two large +button-holes, one at each end of the plaiting; this band hooks or +buttons in front, inside the cloak. Another way of confining it at the +waist, is, by laying a ribbon along the inside of the back breadth, at +the proper distance from the top, thus forming a kind of string-case, +through which two ribbons are passed, fastened at one end, and drawn +out at the other, of the runner; these ribbons tie round the waist at +the inside. The collar having previously been lined, is then set on, +and small pieces, three nails and a quarter long and half a nail broad, +are lined, piped all round, and sewed on one side of each arm-hole, +so as to lay over and cover it when the arms are not in. The cloak is +fastened at the throat either by long silk cords the same colour, with +tassels at the ends, or by a gilt or bronze chain. + +The capes of these cloaks are frequently made loose from them, in which +case they may be worn separately as mantles or short cloaks; when they +are fastened on, they are sewed to the shoulder-piece. + + +LADY’S MANTELET OR SHORT CLOAK. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 22. + +These are made of velvet, satin, silk, cloth, merino or shawling; they +are lined with silk, muslin, or glazed calico, and trimmed with lace, +fringe, velvet, satin or fur; they are very convenient and light for +walking, or going out in an evening. A mantelet reaches to a little +above the knee, and fastens in the front with hooks and eyes; it is +made exactly like the cape of a large cloak, with five breadths in it, +a little hollowed round the neck, and set into a band, or a collar +turned over. + + +LARGE CARRIAGE CLOAK OR ROQUELAURE. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 23. + +Used by ladies in an open carriage, to put on in case of rain. It is +made of plaid or some woollen material, and consists of five breadths +of eleven nails wide, and one yard and a half long; two arm-holes are +made five nails from the top of the cloak, and five nails long, to +these arm-holes are sewed loose sleeves, eight nails long, and four +nails wide, when sewed up; they are merely attached to the cloak by +being sewed to the top of the arm-hole, so that they may be put on, +or left to hang down at pleasure. The cloak is lined with flannel and +glazed calico, or calimanco, it is set into a band at the neck, of +about ten nails long, and a collar and one or more deep capes put on. +It fastens at the throat with a gilt or bronze chain. + + +LADY’S NEAT GARDEN OR SERVANT’S CLOAK. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 24. + +This may be made either of merino or Scotch-plaid; if the former, it +has three breadths in it, of seventeen nails wide; if the latter, it +requires five breadths, eleven nails wide. + +The shoulder-piece is like Fig. 3 or 4, Plate 13; it is lined and +wadded, as are also two capes the same shape as the shoulder-piece cut +larger; the collar is like Fig. 7, Plate 13. The whole cloak is lined +with black or coloured glazed calico; arm-holes are left between the +first and second breadths; they are four nails long, and three nails +and a half from the bottom of the shoulder-piece; a small piece of the +material, four nails long and three-quarters of a nail wide, lined and +piped all round, is set on along each slit or arm-hole. + +These cloaks can be purchased ready-made at the mercer’s shop, and are +from 9s. to 18s. each. + + +OLD WOMAN’S CLOAK AND HOOD. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 25, 27. + +These are generally made of scarlet cloth, or grey duffel, and have +only one breadth in them. The cloth is about three yards wide, and it +is cut as follows:— + +The width of the cloak is made in that of the material, therefore, when +the proper length for the cloak is cut off the piece (say one yard and +eight nails), it is doubled exactly in half the width, and then the +selvages being laid together, they are sloped off at the top, perhaps +from four to five nails gradually to about four nails above the bottom; +the two corners in front are also rounded off at the bottom, so that a +great part of it, as well as the two fronts are slightly on the cross, +which renders binding or hemming not absolutely necessary, though the +cloak looks much better when finished with a neat binding of scarlet or +black ribbon; the top is set into a band the proper length to go round +the neck, and a few plaits are made. + +When two cloaks are cut out together, which is the most economical +plan, the hoods will come out of the sloping at the neck, but this +cannot be, if there is only one. + +The hood is very simple, and is thus formed. Cut a paper pattern of +half the hood, exactly like Fig. 27, and lay it on the cloth, taking +care that D is upon the doubled part of it. In making it up, it is +gathered or plaited from the top, or doubled part to A; the rest to B, +is simply sewed up; B to C, is the part attached to the cloak, and the +front, or what goes round the face, is neatly bound with ribbon. These +hoods may be lined or not, at pleasure. + + +SCHOOL GIRL’S CAPE OR CLOAK. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 26. + +These are made of plaid or other stuff, lined with flannel and calico, +and are good things for school girls to wear at church and elsewhere. + +SCALE. + + ++---------------------------------+------+------+------+------+ | +———————— | 1st. | 2nd. | 3rd. | 4th. | | | Size | Size | Size | Size +| +---------------------------------+------+------+------+------+ +| |Nails.|Nails.|Nails.|Nails.| |Usual width of plaid | 11 | +12 | | | |Number of breadths | 2½ | 3 | 3½ | 4 | |Depth to +be cut down the selvage | 8 | 10 | 12 | 13 | |Collar like +Fig. 7, Plate 13, | | | | | | cut according to size | | | | | ++---------------------------------+------+------+------+------+ */ + +The skirt of the cloak having been lined with coarse flannel and glazed +calico, and the shoulder-piece being piped all round with a pretty +thick piping, the skirt is plaited evenly to the shoulder-piece in +handsome plaits, and the flannel being laid against it, the calico +linings are neatly felled down over the plaits, so as to hide the rough +edges; the collar, lined also with flannel and calico, is sewed on, and +a piece of tape or strong calico laid upon the part where it joins the +shoulder-piece at the top. A button is put on at the throat, on the +right hand side, and another, four nails below, and small squares of +plaid doubled, with each a button-hole made in them, put to correspond +on the other side. + +By lengthening the skirt, this would make a very suitable cloak for a +woman. + +A more economical cloak, of this pattern, may be made of green baize; +without a collar, it costs very little, but of course it does not wear +nearly so well as the plaid ones. + + +BOY’S CLOAK. + +A cloak or deep cape for a boy, may be made very simply as follows:— + +Cut a large circle of cloth or plaid, the size you wish the cloak to +be, and in the centre of it, make a smaller circle for the neck; cut +from this small circle to the edge in a straight line, which will form +the opening in front. Gather or plait the neck into a broad band, and +it is completed. A cloak thus made will hang in full handsome folds, +and be very warm. + + +SHAWLS. + +Shawls may be made of various materials, velvet, plush, silk, cloth, +duffel, plaid, or printed flannel, and they may either be square or in +the form of a half-handkerchief; they are variously lined and trimmed, +according to taste and circumstances. + + +CARRIAGE OR DRESS SHAWL. + +This is either velvet, plush, or satin, and is half a square of one +yard, twelve nails, or less, to suit the figure of the person, and the +width of the material. It is lined with white or coloured sarsenet, and +trimmed at the edge of the two straight sides, with a satin or silk +hem, from one to one nail and a half deep, cut crosswise, lace, fringe, +or fur. + + +LADY’S WALKING SHAWL. + +Silk, cloth, or merino, are equally appropriate for this purpose. It +may either be a square of one yard, twelve nails, or half of it, and +is lined with silk. When the whole square is preferred, and when a hem +of velvet, satin, or silk is laid on, care must be taken to arrange it +so that when the shawl is doubled handkerchief-wise, the hems of both +folds shall be seen at the same time, one lying nearly over the other, +for which purpose, after laying the border on two successive sides +of the square, turn your shawl over before sewing the border of the +remaining two sides on. Thus half the trimming is on one, and half on +the other side of the shawl. + +These shawls, like the one mentioned above, may be trimmed in various +ways. + + +SHAWL FOR A MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF FRIENDS. + +This is a square of about one yard, twelve nails, and is made either +of fine white, or very pale drab, grey, or other quiet coloured cloth, +with a satin ribbon, the same shade and one nail broad, laid on all +round it. It may be lined or not, according to pleasure. + + +QUILTED SHAWL. + +This is half a square of silk of about one yard, twelve nails, and has +a very neat appearance, besides being both light and warm. It is thus +made:— + +Lay wadding, demet, or flannel between the outside silk and the lining, +which should be either white or some pretty suitable colour: it must +then be run in three or four rows round the edge, and the middle +quilted in diamonds, or any other pattern, according to taste. + + +CASHMERE SHAWL. + +Purchase a piece of coloured Cashmere or Indiana, one yard, six nails +square, to form the centre of the shawl, and make a very narrow hem all +round it; then take shawl bordering, or four strips of Cashmere of some +other colour, which will harmonize, or contrast well with the centre; +these should be from two to three nails broad, and one yard, twelve +nails long; they are likewise hemmed on both sides, and then sewed to +the square; the corners are joined obliquely, or from point to point. +A fringe should be set on all round. This coloured border must be put +on, so that when the shawl is worn, the two corners shall fall properly +over each other, as described in the “Lady’s Walking Shawl.” Coloured +gimp is sometimes laid on over the joinings. + + +MOURNING SHAWLS. + +These may be made in two ways, according to the depth of the mourning. +The first and deepest kind is half a square of black silk, entirely +covered with black crape, and lined with black sarsenet. + +The other is also a half square of rich, but not very bright black +silk, with a hem of crape from one to two nails deep, laid on the two +straight sides. + + +PLAIN WALKING SHAWL. + +This may be made of plaid, printed flannel, or duffel, and is suitable +for ladies, children, and servants. + +Cut half a square of the proper size, line it with silk, or calico, +and run it at about one nail from the edge, on the two straight sides, +so as to keep it flat, and make a sort of hem: this shawl is made to +fit the neck, for this end, instead of hollowing it out, run on the +cross-way part in the centre, a little string-case, in a semi-circular +form, and by passing a ribbon through, it is drawn up to fit the neck, +making a sort of frill or standing up collar. This shawl is plaited +in at the bottom of the waist, and strings, or a band sewed on at the +inside. + +Arm-holes may also be made in it at pleasure. + + +TRAVELLING SHAWL. + +A warm shawl or handkerchief for travelling, may be made of a square of +wadding doubled in half, and covered with silk or muslin. + + +SPENCERS. + +PLATE 20. + +Spencers are made of silk, cloth, muslin, and print, and are worn with +low frocks, by children, to walk out in. + + +PLAIN SPENCER. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 28, 29. + +From its simplicity, this is suited to very young children, as well as +to school girls, or young servants. + +SCALE. + + +-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+ + | ———————— | 1st. |Child of | + | | Size. |4 years. | + +-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+ + | | Nails. | Nails. | + |Length of the body, | | | + | cut width-wise of the material | 12 | 15 | + |Depth of ditto, cut selvage-wise | 3 | 3½ | + |When doubled in four, cut for shoulder | 1 | 1½ | + |Depth of arm-hole | 1¼ | 1½ | + |Arm-hole cut into the stuff | ½ | ½ | + |Width of sleeve | 4 | 6 | + |Length of ditto | 4 | 6 | + |Neck hollowed out | ¼ | ¼ | + |Length of band or collar | 6 | 6 | + |Depth of ditto | 1 | 1 | + +-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+ + | ———————— |Child of| Girl of | + | |6 years.| 12 yrs. | + +-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+ + | | Nails. |Yds. nls.| + |Length of the body, | 16 | 1 5 | + | cut width-wise of the material | 16 | 1 5 | + |Depth of ditto, cut selvage-wise | 4 | 5 | + |When doubled in four, cut for shoulder | 2 | 2 | + |Depth of arm-hole | 1¾ | 2¼ | + |Arm-hole cut into the stuff | ¾ | ¾ | + |Width of sleeve | 8 | 8 | + |Length of ditto | 8 | 10 | + |Neck hollowed out | ½ | ½ | + |Length of band or collar | 8 | 9 | + |Depth of ditto | 1½ | 2 | + +-------------------------------------------+--------+---------+ + +In making, sew up the shoulders, make up the sleeves, and set them in, +a little fulled at the top. Make a string-case at the wrist at about +half or three-quarters of a nail from the bottom of the sleeve, which, +when drawn, forms a frill. Gather it equally into the band or collar; +for stout children, small gussets may be put in the neck. It is either +hemmed or set into a band at the bottom; sometimes a frill is sewed on +round the waist, sometimes the spencer is cut one nail longer to admit +of a runner being put one nail above the bottom, so as to form a frill. + + +DRESS SPENCER. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 30, 31. + +This is a very pretty shape for ladies’ children, but as it must be +cut out to fit the figure, only one size, for a child from two to four +years old, will be given. It may be made of kerseymere, cloth, cambric, +or jaconet muslin. + +SCALE. + + +--------------------------------------------------+-----------+ + | | Yds. nls. | + |Length of body, width-way of the material | 1 0 | + |Depth of body cut down the selvage | 2 | + |When doubled in four, slit for the arm-hole | 2 | + |Cut into the material for the arm-hole | ¾ | + |For collar, see Plate 13, Fig. 17 | | + |For sleeves, see Plate 12, Fig. 1 | | + |Length of band | 10 | + |Depth of ditto | 1 | + |Length of robing, from the back over the shoulder | | + | to the front | 12 | + |Smallest width of ditto | ½ | + |Greatest width of ditto | 2 | + |For shoulder-piece, see Plate 13, Fig. 5 | | + +--------------------------------------------------+-----------+ + +In making up, supposing the spencer to be of cambric muslin, sew +a piece of strong insertion-work to the backs and front of the +shoulder-piece, simply hemming that part of it which goes over the +shoulder; full the body evenly into the insertion-work, both before +and behind, leaving it perfectly plain under the arm-holes; the sleeve +is next gathered into the shoulder-piece, and sewed plainly into the +arm-hole; the body is next fulled into the band. In the band, on each +side behind, is a little runner of about two nails from the ends, +through which a bobbin is run, which comes out through an oylet-hole, +at about a quarter of a nail from the end; it fastens also with a +button or with hooks and eyes: up the backs of both shoulder-pieces +and body a broad hem is made, in which are buttons and button-holes to +correspond. The robings are next put on, a little fulled at the back +and front, and a good deal over the shoulders: the robing at the back +is sewed immediately below the insertion-work; it is one nail and a +half deep, which increases to its fullest breadth over the shoulders, +and is gradually narrowed off again to the band in front. The collar, +which is trimmed with neat work or a frill, is then set on. The sleeves +are made and put in. + + +TIPPET AND SLEEVES. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 32, 33, 34, 35. + +These are very convenient for children to wear in the summer, as they +are easily put off and on. They are made of jaconet or cambric muslin, +gingham, or print, to suit the frock. + +To cut the front, Fig. 33, let your paper be five nails and +three-quarters long, and three nails and three-quarters wide, when +folded in two. D is the doubled part. + +SCALE. + + +-----------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | From the corner to L | 2 | + | Above the corner to T | 1 | + | From the side to V | ½ | + | From the top to V | ¾ | + | From the corner to S | 1¾ | + | From S to Z | 1½ | + | From Z to N | ¾ | + +-----------------------+--------+ + +Curve from L to T, again from T to V; cut from V to S; slope from S to +N. The part marked N, is for the neck; S V, for the shoulder; V T, the +flap or shoulder-piece. + +For the back, Fig. 35, let your paper be three nails wide and four +nails long. + +SCALE. + + +----------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | From the bottom to A | 1¼ | + | From B to C | ¾ | + | From C to F | 2 | + | Leaving to G | 1 | + | From H to K | 1 | + +----------------------+--------+ + +Cut from H to A; slope from A to B; cut from B to F; curve from F to +half a nail below G; N is the neck; S the shoulder. + +For the little flap or shoulder-piece, Fig. 32, take a piece of paper, +letting it be one nail and three-quarters long, when doubled, and one +nail and a half deep; at the opposite side to the doubled part, mark +the point A one quarter of a nail from the side, and one-third of a +nail from the bottom; cut in a straight line from the top to A, and +slope gradually from A to the bottom. + +In making up, sew the shoulders of the two backs to those of the front, +set in the two shoulder-flaps, fulling them in the middle, gather the +front into the space of one nail, setting it into a band, which is +about one-third of a nail, when doubled, and nine nails long, made to +button behind; the backs are also gathered, and sewed to the band at +each end, at a proper distance, say about three nails from the middle. +The Plate represents the tippet as if the sides were not attached to +the band, observe, however, that the bottom, A, is to be sewed to the +part marked B, of the band. On the top of the tippet is set a collar, +according to fancy; Fig. 19, Plate 13, is that generally preferred. +Sleeves cut according to Fig. 1, Plate 12, are then made; they are +set into a band at the top, and then sewed on to the fullest part or +middle, under the flap, for the space of half a nail. + +These tippets may be trimmed with braid, if made of cloth or +kerseymere; when they are of muslin, with narrow work or edging. + + +NECK HANDKERCHIEFS. + +Many persons wear net or muslin handkerchiefs within their dress, +and under the collar or habit-shirt, and for those liable to be soon +heated, or who are engaged in warm or dusty employments, it is a +particularly good plan to do so, especially if the dress is not of +a washing material, as it keeps the body clean and nice much longer +than it otherwise could be. Elderly persons should always wear these +handkerchiefs, as there is something delicate and cleanly in their +having what will wash next the skin. + +Muslin handkerchiefs may be purchased, woven for the purpose, with +borders, at from about 6_d._ to 2_s._, but the cheap ones are not worth +buying, they soon tear in the washing, and look thick and cottony; the +fine ones are so costly that it is better economy to have squares of +muslin cut from the piece; these, like the bordered ones, may either be +worn double, or the square may be cut in two, which most people prefer. +The muslin should be yard wide, not very coarse, nor yet extremely +fine, if wanted for common wear, but a thin transparent muslin should +be selected; that which is called India book, having a yellowish white +cast, is preferable to the blue muslins, which are apt to look heavy +and clothy when washed. Real India muslin is the best, but it is too +costly for general wear. + +The extreme points of the half square should be cut off, or turned up, +which is a good plan for the back, as it makes it stronger; and after +hemming the handkerchief all round, a tape is set on behind, to go +round the waist and tie in front. + +For net handkerchiefs, the best width of the net is from one yard +and two nails to one yard and four nails; it should be of a medium +fineness, not too close, or it will lose its clearness after washing. +In making net handkerchiefs, it is a good plan to run a hem of book +muslin, of about half or a quarter of a nail broad, on the two straight +sides, which prevents the handkerchief running up in the washing; on +the cross side, of course, a narrow hem is made, as the muslin would +shew in the wearing, and would look untidy. The points should be cut +off, and a tape sewed on behind. + +Net handkerchiefs are, on the whole, more economical than muslin, as +they wear longer. + + +POCKET HANDKERCHIEFS. + +These are made of French cambric, fine lawn, Scotch cambric, cotton, +or silk; the former are chiefly worn by ladies, and the latter by +gentlemen; lawn and Scotch cambric are used by young persons and +children; cotton handkerchiefs are confined to the working classes. + +Ladies’ pocket handkerchiefs are usually eleven or twelve nails square; +they are purchased woven on purpose with borders. Sometimes very fine +cambric may be procured eleven nails wide, which many persons prefer to +the bordered handkerchiefs; these are often made with broad hems, half +or three-quarters of a nail deep, and a row of open veining worked at +the bottom of the hem, or a narrow edging of lace is sewed all round. + +Cambric handkerchiefs for gentlemen are larger than those for ladies, +say fourteen or fifteen nails. + +Gentlemen’s silk handkerchiefs should be of India silk, and are about +5_s._ 6_d._ each; they are far preferable to British silk, as they +are much softer, and keep the dye to the very last. British silk +handkerchiefs should be dipped in gall the first time they are washed. +Printed cotton handkerchiefs, for poor children, may be bought at a +penny and even a halfpenny each. + + +BRIDAL FAVOURS. + +The customs respecting favours and bridal paraphernalia differ so much +in different places, that no general rules can be given respecting them. + +Sometimes white ribbons, gloves, and handkerchiefs are given, and +sometimes only the former. Favours for the higher orders are usually +of lace, flowers, silver ribbon, or cord, and those for the middling +classes, of satin ribbon; they are worn on the left side. The usual +quantity given to servants, both men and women, coachmen, &c. is three +yards, which is worn as a trimming for either the cap or bonnet by the +women, and made up into very large bows for the men, to pin on their +coats. + + +SHOES AND SLIPPERS. + +PLATE 20. + +No shoes will be here described but such as are soft, and therefore +easily made at home, or those worn by children. + +Slippers may be made of velvet, silk, cloth, kerseymere, carpet, +wrap-rascal, or frieze, and worked canvass, any of these materials, +together with ticking, having a pattern worked on it, may be used for +children’s shoes. + +Cut a paper pattern of half the shoe, as follows, according to the size +required. Fig. 42. + +SCALE FOR ALL SIZES. + + +-------------------------+----------+--------+---------+----------+ + | | Man. | Woman. | Girl of | Child of | + | | | | 9 or 10 | 5 or 6 | + | | | | yrs. | yrs. | + +-------------------------+----------+--------+---------+----------+ + | | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. | Nails. | + |Length of paper | 5¼ | 4¾ | 3½ | 3 | + |Width of ditto | 2 | 1¾ | 1¼ | 1⅛ | + |Size from A to the bottom| 1¼ | 1⅛ | ⅞ | ⅞ | + |Size from B to the bottom| ¾ | ⅔ | ⅜ | ⅜ | + |From the side to B | ¼ | ¼ | ¼ | ⅛ | + |From the corner to C | 2 | 2 | 1½ | 1½ | + |From C to E | 3¼ | 2¾ | 2 | 1½ | + |From E to F | 1⅛ | 1 | ⅞ | ¾ | + |From F to H | 3 | 2½ | 1⅞ | 1½ | + |From H to G | ½ | ¼ | ¼ | ¼ | + |From G to I |a bare nl.| ½ | ⅜ | ½ | + |From F to the side | ⅛ | ⅛ | ⅛ | ⅛ | + +-------------------------+----------+--------+---------+----------+ + +Cut from I to A, and again from A to B; curve from B to C, cut from F +to H; H to G being only a slit; cut off from G to I; from I to A is the +doubled part. + + +MEN’S SLIPPERS. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 42. + +These may be made of carpet, cloth and frieze, or wrap-rascal. + +In cutting them out, the material should be doubled at D; these +slippers should be lined with flannel, and either silk or cloth; the +linings are tacked to the outside, and the three bound together all +round with silk ferreting or binding; the sole is of strong leather or +pasteboard, if the latter, it is put between two pieces of carpeting or +cloth, as no needle is strong enough to go through it, and the edges of +these pieces being bound round, the sole thus formed is attached to the +slipper. + +It is, however, better in general that men’s slippers should be made by +a shoe-maker, as it is hard work for women. + + +LADIES’ SLIPPERS. + +There are many neat and ornamental ways of making ladies’ slippers, or +toilette shoes; the following are the most generally approved:— + +Canvass, worked in tent or cross-stitch, silk, jean, or print quilted, +cloth, or soft leather, braided or embroidered. + +Care should be taken that the braid is very fine and flat; gold or +silver twist may be sewed at the edge of it, which improves the effect +very much. + +When made up, these slippers should be lined with flannel, or wadding, +and silk, and bound round with silk binding or galloon. A pasteboard +sole, put between two pieces of thick cloth, or carpet, is bound round, +and sewed to the upper part of the shoe, and a warm lining of flannel, +or fleecy hosiery, put upon it, on the inside. A trimming of fur is +sewed round the edge. + + +QUILTED SLIPPERS. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 43. + +Some of these are made of strong silk, with a silk lining and soft +flannel between; they are quilted all over in vandykes, octagons, or +diamonds. + +Some are made so as to wash, and look very well, if the material is of +blue, or any lively coloured print or jean. They should be lined with +flannel and good strong calico; the whole is then quilted together, +with thread or coloured silk. The initials of the owner may be worked +in button-hole or chain-stitch, on the top or side of the slipper; it +is slit down in the front, for about three-quarters of a nail, and the +two sides of the slit, as well as the whole shoe, bound with ribbon; +purple galloon is the best, if it suits the prints, as it washes well. + +A string is made to draw from about the middle of each side, which ties +in the front. + + +LADIES’ SLIPPERS. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 44, 46, 50. + +This slipper is in two parts, the back and the front, which is by some +persons considered an advantage, and it certainly enables it to be cut +out with more economy. + +Fig. 44 represents the back-piece when doubled. + +SCALE. + + +------------------------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | Greatest length of back-piece | 6½ | + | Shortest length of ditto | 6 | + | Width of ditto | 1⅛ | + | Depth of front-piece, when doubled | 1¾ | + | Width of ditto | 3 | + | From A to B | 2½ | + | From B to C | ¾ | + | From C to the bottom | ¾ | + | From F to the side | ½ | + | From F to G | 1 | + | From H to A | ½ | + | From the bottom to E | ¾ | + +------------------------------------+--------+ + +Cut from B to C, from C to E, from E to F, and from G to H. + +This shoe is made like those described before, excepting that, being in +two pieces, the ends of the back-piece, S S, Fig. 44, are bound as well +as the top and bottom of it, and the corresponding parts, E F, of Fig. +46, being bound also, they are sewed together very securely with strong +silk. + + +TRAVELLING OR OVER-SHOES. + +These are useful to wear on a journey, or to put over dress shoes, to +keep the feet warm in going out to dinner, &c. They are very easily +made. + +Cut out the shape of the slipper (see Fig. 42), in frieze or +wrap-rascal, and also a lining of soft flannel, and of silk; tack the +linings to the outside, and then bind them round with silk-ferretting +the colour of the wrap-rascal; make a sole of the material, bind it +also round, and sew them altogether; then cut out a sole of strong +millboard, which must be covered with thick flannel, and as this is +too hard for the needle to pass through, it must be tied down within +the sole of the slipper, by means of a halfpenny ribbon passed through +holes made at the toe and heel, which must be so contrived as to secure +it effectually. + + +LADY OR GENTLEMAN’S HALF SLIPPER. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 45. + +There is also a manner of making a slipper by merely sewing on a front +to a sole, and leaving it without any back-piece at all, as shewn in +the Plate. + + +CARRIAGE SLIPPERS. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 49. + +These are particularly desirable for invalids, especially on long +journies. They consist of a mat, or small rug, either of sheep-skin, +or worked in rug stitch; upon this are sewed two large morocco shoes, +without soles, which are lined with soft flannel, or fleecy hosiery, +and trimmed round the top with fur, the rug itself acting as soles to +the slippers, which should be large enough to admit of any person’s +foot. + + +BABY’S FIRST SHOES. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 51, 52, 53, 54. + +These look very well made of crimson cloth, with soles of black cloth, +or they may be of silk or satin, quilted. The shoe is in two parts, +each of which is lined with flannel, and bound with crimson ribbon, +which is stitched on very neatly; between the cloth and the flannel of +the sole, is laid one of pliable leather, to give it a little firmness. +The front part, Fig. 51, is first sewed on to the sole (see Fig. 54), +after which, the back, Fig. 52, is put on, and being so cut as to +overlap the front, oylet-holes are made at A, Fig. 54, and at E, Fig. +52, through which a ribbon is passed, which serves at once to tie the +shoe, and to keep the front and back of it together; the sides not +being sewed up at all. + + +BABY’S SECOND SHOES. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 47. + +This is made of soft velveteen, strong jean, or thick cloth, lined with +fine calico. It is cut all in one piece, as follows:—let your paper for +the pattern be two nails and a half long, and one deep. + +SCALE. + + +----------------------+--------+ + | | Nails. | + | From the top to A | ⅓ | + | From the side to A | ¾ | + | From the bottom to B | ⅓ | + | From the corner to C | ½ | + | From the bottom to E | ¾ | + | From the side to E | ½ | + | From the top to F | ⅓ | + | From H to G | 1 | + +----------------------+--------+ + +Lay B A, which is the folded part, on a double piece of the material. +Cut from F to G, slope from G to E, curve from E to A, round from C to +B, cut from B to A. This shoe should be bound with ribbon; it looks +pretty made of drab or grey, and bound with blue or rose colour. A +little bow is put on in front, and strings are sewed to the ends of the +straps, or passed through oylet-holes made in them, to tie round the +ankle, and thus keep the shoe in its place. + + +BABY’S TICKING SHOE. + +PLATE 20. FIG. 50. + +This is also in one piece, and makes a pretty variety, it is cut +according to the scale given before, and care must be taken in the +cutting out to place the ticking on the pattern, so that the stripes +lie properly, i. e. straight from the middle or front of the shoe, +to the toe. The ticking is then ornamented by being worked in the +intervals between the dark stripes, either in herring-bone, or some +other fancy stitch, in coloured netting silk, either in one colour, +or in two well chosen contrasts, as blue and brown, crimson and dark +green. It is then lined all through, bound with ribbon to suit the +work, and sewed up behind. The sole is of thick but flexible leather, +lined and bound. Oylet-holes are made on each side of the slit in the +front, through which a ribbon is laced, to tie it up, and a bow put on +at the top of the slit, completes it. + + +ON COVERING SHOES. + +It is sometimes very good economy to cover white or light coloured silk +or satin shoes, but it requires great exactness, both in the fitting +and sewing the new cover on; black silk or satin is generally found +to answer the best, as from its dark colour any inaccuracies are less +likely to be observed. The quantity required for covering a full sized +pair of lady’s shoes is six nails, cut the straight way. + +Lay a piece of soft paper upon your shoe, and cut an exact pattern, +divided of course in two parts, the front and the back. Place the +pattern upon your satin or silk, so that the material lies the straight +way, and so as to economize the satin. + +The shoes must be first well rubbed and cleaned with a cloth; the +binding should, if possible, be picked off, and every little crack or +thin place neatly darned. + +When you put the satin on the shoe, begin with the front, and be +careful that it lies perfectly straight and even, pin it with small +pins very near together, all round the front, next to the sole, keeping +your hand in the shoe, so as to fill it out, almost as when the foot is +in it; whip or sew it over at the inside round the edge, with a tacking +thread, and pretty close stitches; then with a stout needle and strong +but not coarse black silk, sew the satin to the shoe, as close to the +sole as possible, with small neat stitches, taking very great care not +to draw or confine it in any part, for fear of hurting the foot, and +trying it on from time to time, to make sure. The back is done in a +similar manner, and then a ribbon is laid on up the sides, where the +front and back join, and double stitched. The binding is next put on, +this must also be neatly back-stitched, and is broad enough to conceal +the tacking, or sewing-over threads; you must observe not to hold it in +too much, or all your work is wasted; for if the binding is tight, the +shoes can never be worn. Small bows and strings complete the whole. + +Shoes that have been wetted by sea water, should be washed with soap +and water, which prevents their spoiling. + +For cleaning white satin shoes, see Receipt, No. 41. + +Patent leather shoes should be well rubbed with oil outside, to clean +them, and prevent their cracking. + +The soles of shoes should be cut straight-wise, as when cut on the +cross, they will crack. + + +GLOVES. + +The chief kinds are kid, doe-skin, Berlin, Woodstock, and Limerick. The +principal manufactures for the former kinds, are at Worcester, Dundee, +and Jersey; the latter take their names from the places where they +are made. French gloves are by some preferred to the English make, as +they are considered to be more elastic. The Berlin gloves look like +Woodstock, and wash and wear beautifully; a little pearl ash in the +water makes them look as well as new. Others are made of cotton, silk, +and worsted, and woven, net, or knit; for the latter, see “Knit Gloves.” + +Cotton gloves are worn by men servants when waiting at table, and are +very good for the purpose, as they are easily washed. + +It is impossible to give any shapes or scales for gloves; the best plan +to get an exact pattern is to pick an old glove to pieces, and cut +out by it. Gloves are sewed with a peculiar kind of silk, prepared on +purpose, which is finer and less twisted than ordinary sewing silk; it +is between floss and round silk. The needles are small, very sharp, and +three-sided towards the point. + +For cleaning gloves, see Receipt, No. 40, 45. + + +ON DOWN AND FUR. + +As it may be a matter of economy to some persons, especially to those +who live in the country, to understand something of the making up, +cleaning, and keeping of down and fur, such hints as are essential +to those not regularly employed in the business, are given in the +following pages. + + +DOWN. + +The down of the swan, from its high price, is rarely used; as it is not +plucked from the skin, there is little to be said about it, excepting +that, after being well cleaned, the skin is cut into strips or squares +of the size required, and at once sewed upon the article to be trimmed +or ornamented. + +Christmas is the prime season for goose down, and a great difference +is made in the waste, if it is gathered out of season, when there will +probably be a mass of pen feathers, or new quills, growing under the +breast, which must all be picked out, before the down can be got at, +which of course adds much to the trouble and expense. That down which +lies under the wings has no quill, therefore it cannot be sewed at all, +but is kept for stuffing cushions, coverlets, &c. Down should be kept +in paper bags or boxes, in a very dry place; damp spoils it. + +A little while before it is used, it should be laid in paper bags +before the fire, to lighten or separate it. + +For sewing on down, to be used as trimmings, &c., the following +instructions should be attended to. + +Choose a small empty room, with as few drafts of air as possible in +it; wear a black silk pinafore or apron, and have a silk cover, or old +apron on the table, to prevent the down adhering to it, or to the dress. + +Begin by sorting your down into a box, keeping the refuse, or that +without quills, in another box or bag by itself; in sorting it, draw +a handful out of the bag, holding it fast in the palm of the hand, +pulling it out piece by piece, by which means there is little waste; +the hands of the workwoman should be very clean and cool. When all +those pieces which have quills to them have been carefully picked out, +lay them in pairs upon the table. + +Cut your strip of calico to the proper size, whether for a boa or muff, +it must be the straight way. Pin the calico, beyond the part where you +are going to work, to your waist or dress, and have some strong thread +in your needle; double your calico in regular rows or creases, rather +less than one quarter of a nail apart; then begin to sew the down upon +the first crease or fold, pass your needle through the ends of two of +the small quilled pieces, which you must hold in your hand, push them +down upon the calico, and sew three stitches strongly upon them, taking +care not to pull the thread too tight, or it will not wash well; then +take another stitch, a little further on the line, before beginning +with the next piece of down. When the row is finished, go on to the +next line marked on the calico, keeping that already done, next to you, +so as to lie inside, or under your hand. + +Observe, that for a boa, the rows of down go width-wise of the calico, +while for a muff, the rows must be in a downward direction or round it; +in short it should always be sewed in that way which will make it shew +to the best advantage when made up, and so as to conceal the rows of +sewing. + +Upon an average, six ounces of down will make a boa, with nearly three +ounces waste. The best goose down is about 2_s._ an ounce; it chiefly +comes from Lincolnshire. + +Turkey down is also at its prime at Christmas, and is sometimes used +for cuffs, neck-ruffs, or operas, and other small articles. + + +IMITATION ERMINE. + +Sew tails of false black sable into white Spanish rabbit skin, cut +a little V and let the tail in, covering it over with the flap, and +sewing the tail firmly in. + +The following is a list of the furs in general use:— + + Sable, which is black and brown. + Ermine, black and white. + Chincilla, greyish blue. + Bear, black, brown, and Isabella. + Otter. + Fox, black, brown, and white or Arctic. + Wolf, yellow or sandy. + Wolverine. + Lynx, black. + Squirrel, brown, or silver, which is also called Minever. + Racoon. + Fitch, brown. + Weazel. + Rat, Norwegian or Russian. + Rabbit. + Martin. + Cat. + + +TO MAKE A MUFF. + +A full sized muff is about nine nails wide, and fourteen nails long, +before it is sewed up. To make a foundation for a muff, lay a piece of +Jersey on the table, and upon it a layer of curled horse-hair, next a +sheet of wadding, roll it round, and sew it up the proper size, put +it inside the muff and tack round the edge at each end, then make the +lining, slip it in neatly and fasten it. One yard and a quarter of silk +will line a full sized muff. + + +TO MAKE A BOA. + +After sewing the down on the calico, as before directed, or the skins +of fur together, turn it to the wrong side, and sew the seam up neatly +and strongly, turning it out to the right side as you go on, then fill +it with Jersey to a proper thickness. + +The usual length of a boa, is from two yards and three-quarters to +three yards. + + +TO MAKE A TIPPET. + +A tippet is lined with flannel and wadding between the silk and the fur. + + +TO MAKE AN OPERA, OR RUFF. + +This is lined with flannel and wadding, within the silk lining. + +Fur is always cut at the back, with a knife and rule. + + +TO CLEAN FUR. + +Unpick the seam, but not the skins. Place it on a large deal table, +and tack it slightly down with small nails. Pound white French chalk, +add some bran to it, and keep rubbing it on with the hand and a clean +flannel very hard backwards and forwards, take it out with a brush, and +when done, shake it well. When a grub or moth is in the fur, put it in +a stove hot enough to bear the hand. + + +TO CLEAN DOWN. + +Open the seam, and wash with white soap and warm water; shake it before +a gentle fire till dry. + + +TO PRESERVE FUR + +With respect to keeping furs, it is well to bear in mind the old adage +that + + “A little neglect may breed a great mischief:” + +great care should be taken to preserve them free from moths and damp; +the following are the best methods of doing so:— + +On laying furs by for the summer, they should be put into brown paper +bags, with clean hops scattered over them, and once or twice during the +season, they should be exposed to the air and well combed or shaken, or +they may be put away in tin boxes, or sewed up in strong linen; pepper, +Russia leather, or a piece of mould candle are very good preservatives +against moths, when put in the box or bag with the fur. + +When fur has been wetted, it should not be wiped, but only shaken, and +laid in the sun or a warm room till dry. + +The best method of cleaning or preserving fur, is by washing the skin +with a solution of corrosive sublimate in as much spirits of wine as +will dissolve it, and gently shaking it, dry near but not close to a +fire. After this process has been gone through, the moth will not touch +it, but it requires care, as corrosive sublimate is a strong poison. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +HOUSE LINEN. + + +House linen appears to be a branch of domestic economy little +understood and considered, in comparison with its importance. + +Many persons are little aware how much the good washing and wearing +of their house linen depends on the choice and adaption of it to the +purposes for which it is intended, as well as of the different methods +of cutting and making it up, so as to have a handsome appearance, with +due attention to economy. The following suggestions, though not adopted +in all families, may, it is hoped, prove useful to some. + +House linen may be classed under four heads, namely, bed-room linen, +table and pantry linen, housemaid’s linen, and kitchen linen, to which +may be added stable linen. + +The following is a general table of all the linen necessary in a +gentleman’s house, together with the price, width, and quality. Each +article will afterwards be entered upon at large. + + +BED-ROOM LINEN. + +SCALE. + + +--------------+-------------------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---------------------+ + | Number | | Kind of Linen. |Length.| Width.| Price. | + | required. | | | | | | + +--------------+-------------------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---------------------+ + | | | |Yds nls|Yds nls| | + | |Best sheets, double bed|Fine linen | 4 0 | 3¼ 0 | 8_s._ to 6_s._ 6_d._| + | |Family sheets, double bed|Coarser linen | 3 8 | 2¾ 0 | 4_s._ to 5_s._ 9_d._| + | |Calico sheets, double bed|Fine strong calico | 3 0 | 2½ 0 | 3_s._ or 22_d._ | + | +-------------------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---------------------+ + | |Servant’s linen sheets, | | | | | + | | double bed|Stout unbleached linen| 3 0 | 2½ 0 | 2_s._ 6_d._ to 4_s._| + | +-------------------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---------------------+ + |From three |Best sheets, single bed|Fine linen | 2¾ 0 | 2½ 0 | 3_s._ to 5_s._ | + |sheets to two |Family sheets, single bed|Coarser linen | 2 0 | 2½ 0 | 3_s._ to 4_s._ | + |pairs to each |Calico sheets, single bed|Fine strong calico | 2 0 | 2½ 0 | 20_d._ | + |bed. +-------------------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---------------------+ + | |Servant’s sheets, | | | | | + | | single bed|Stout unbleached ditto| 2 0 | 2½ 0 |10_d._ to 1_s._ 6_d._| + | +-------------------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---------------------+ + | |Ditto, ditto |Ditto | 2 0 | 1 0 | 4_d._ to 8_d._ | + | |Crib sheets |Fine calico or linen | 2 0 | 1½ 0 | 1_s._ | + | |Cradle sheets |Fine calico | 1½ 0 | 1 0 | 1_s._ | + +--------------+-------------------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---------------------+ + | | | | |19 nls.| | + | | | | |before | | + | |Best pillow cases |Finest linen | 1 0 | sew’d | 3_s._ | + |Two to each |Family pillow cases |Fine linen | 1 0 | 19 | 2_s._ | + |pillow. |Calico pillow cases |Fine calico | 1 0 | 19 | 14_d._ | + | |Servant’s pillow cases |Soft strong linen | 1 0 | | 11_d._ | + +--------------+-------------------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---------------------+ + | |Best fine towels |Finest pinafore diaper| 1 0 | 12 | 20_d._ | + |From six to |Family fine towels |Fine check diaper | 1 0 | 12 | 1_s._ 6_d._ | + |twelve towels |Best coarse towels |Fine huckaback | 1 0 | 12 | 1_s._ 4_d._ | + |each washing |Family coarse towels |Coarser huckaback | 1 0 | 11 | 1_s._ 2_d._ | + |stand. |Servant’s towels |Coarse huckaback | 1 0 | 11 | 1_s._ | + +--------------+-------------------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---------------------+ + |Two to each | | | | | | + |or three to |Toilet table covers |Diaper or quilting | | | 3_s._ | + |two toilets. | | | | | | + +--------------+-------------------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---------------------+ + |Two to each |Pincushion covers |Dimity or muslin | | | | + |toilet. | | | | | | + +--------------+-------------------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---------------------+ + + +TABLE LINEN. + +SCALE. + + +------------+-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+ + | Number | | Kind of | | | | + | required. | | Linen. |Length.| Width.| Price. | + +------------+-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+ + | | | |Yds nls|Yds nls| | + | | Breakfast cloth | Damask | 1¼ 0 | 1¼ 0 | 3_s._ 6_d._ to 6_s._ | + | | Ditto | Ditto | 1½ 0 | 1½ 0 | 4_s._ to 8_s._ | + | 8 or 10 +-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+ + | | Ditto, large size,| | | | | + | | or small | Ditto | 1¾ 0 | 1½ 0 | 6_s._ to 12_s._ | + | | dinner cloth| | | | | + | +-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+ + | | Ditto square | Ditto | 2 0 | 2 0 | 8_s._ to 20_s._ | + +------------+-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+ + | | Common table cloth| Ditto | 2½ 0 | 2 0 | 10_s._ to 25_s._ | + | | Table cloth | Ditto | 3 0 | 2½ 0 | 18_s._ to 40_s._ | + | 8 to 10 | Ditto | Ditto | 3½ 0 | 2½ 0 | 21_s._ to 60_s._ | + | | Ditto | Ditto | 4 0 | 2½ 0 | 30_s._ to 40_s._ | + | | Ditto | Ditto | 5 0 | 2½ 0 | 80_s._ to 120_s._ | + | +-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+ + | | Largest size | Fine | | | | + | | | Damask | 8 0 | 2½ 0 | 80_s._ to 160_s._ | + +------------+-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+ + | | Table linen in the| | | | | + | | piece, per yard| Damask | | 1½ 0 | 2_s._ 9_d._ to 4_s._ | + | 1 to 3 +-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+ + | | Ditto | Ditto | | 1¾ 0 | 3_s._ 6_d._ to 5_s._ 6_d._| + | | Ditto | Ditto | | 2 0 | 4_s._ 6_d._ to 10_s._ | + | | Ditto | Ditto | | 2½ 0 | 6_s._ to 12_s._ | + | | Ditto | Diaper | | 1½ 0 | 1_s._ 6_d._ to 2_s._ 6_d._| + | | Ditto | Ditto | | 1¾ 0 | 2_s._ to 3_s._ | + | | Ditto | Ditto | | 2 0 | 2_s._ 6_d._ to 3_s._ 6_d._| + | | Ditto | Ditto | | 2½ 0 | 3_s._ 6_d._ | + +------------+-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+ + |3 to 6 doz. | Dinner napkins | Fine | | 14 | 18_s._ to 60_s._ | + | | | Damask | | | per dozen. | + +------------+-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+ + |3 to 6 doz. | Breakfast napkins| Damask | | 12 | 12_s._ to 24_s._ | + | | | | | | per dozen. | + +------------+-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+ + |3 to 6 doz. | Doyleys | White or| 6 | Square| 6_s._ to 12_s._ | + | | |coloured | | | | + | | | do. | | | | + +------------+-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+ + |6 to 12 doz.| Large tray cloths|Damask or| 1 6 | 2 6 | | + | | | diaper| 1 6 | 2 6 | prices too variable | + |6 to 12 doz.| Small ditto | Ditto | 1 3 | 13 | to notify. | + +------------+-------------------+---------+-------+-------+---------------------------+ + + +PANTRY LINEN. + +SCALE. + + +---------+---------------------+---------------+-------+-------+-------------+ + | Number | | | | | | + |required.| ———————— |Kind of Linen. |Length.| Width.| Price. | + +---------+---------------------+---------------+-------+-------+-------------+ + | | | |Yds nls|Yds nls| | + | 6 to 12|Knife-box cloths |Linen | 6 | 6 | 7_d._ per yd| + | 6 to 12|Pantry knife cloths |Coarse linen | 8 | 8 | 7_d._ ditto | + | |Pantry dresser cloths|Coarse diaper | | 11 | 9_d._ ditto | + | 3 |Plate-basket cloths |Linen | | |11_d._ ditto | + | 12 to 24|China cloths |Soft linen | | | | + | | | or diaper | 1 0 | ¾ 0 |11_d._ ditto | + | 12 to 24|Glass cloths |Soft fine linen| ¾ 0 | ¾ 0 |11_d._ ditto | + | |Lamp cloths |Linen and silk | ¾ 0 | ¾ 0 | | + +---------+---------------------+---------------+-------+-------+-------------+ + | 4 to 6 |Aprons |Leather and | See | | | + | | | linen | aprons| | | + +---------+---------------------+---------------+-------+-------+-------------+ + | 6 pr. & |Waiting gloves |Cotton wove | | |1_s._ per pr.| + | upwards | | | | | | + +---------+---------------------+---------------+-------+-------+-------------+ + + +HOUSEMAID’S LINEN. + +SCALE. + + +---------+--------------+---------------+-------+-------+------------+ + | Number | | | | | | + |required.| ———————— | Kind of Linen.|Length.| Width.| Price. | + +---------+--------------+---------------+-------+-------+------------+ + | | | |Yds nls|Yds nls| | + |12 to 36 |House dusters |Linen | 1 0 | 12 |1_s._ per yd| + +---------+--------------+---------------+-------+-------+------------+ + | 2 |Scouring |Coarse | ½ 0 | 14 |7_d._ ditto | + | | flannels | flannels | | | | + +---------+--------------+---------------+-------+-------+------------+ + | 6 to 12 |Paint cloths |Soft old linen | ½ 0 | 12 | | + +---------+--------------+---------------+-------+-------+------------+ + | 6 |Chamber bottle|Linen | ¾ 0 | 12 |9_d._ ditto | + | | cloths | | | | | + +---------+--------------+---------------+-------+-------+------------+ + | 6 |Chamber bucket|Checked blue or| 1 0 | 12 |9_d._ ditto | + | | | lilac linen | | | | + +---------+--------------+---------------+-------+-------+------------+ + | 4 to 8 |Clothes bags |Calico or linen| | |8_d._ ditto | + +---------+--------------+---------------+-------+-------+------------+ + |2 to each|Pinafores |See pinafores | | | Pl. 16. | + | maid | | | | | Fig. 8. | + +---------+--------------+---------------+-------+-------+------------+ + + +KITCHEN LINEN. + +SCALE. + + +--------+--------------+-------------+----------+-------+--------------+ + | No. | | | | | | + |required| ———————— |Kind of Linen| Length. | Width.| Price. | + +--------+--------------+-------------+----------+-------+--------------+ + | | | | Yds. nls.|Yds nls| | + | 6 to 12|Table cloths |Coarse diaper|2 or 3 yds| 2 0 |at 2_s._ 6_d._| + +--------+--------------+-------------+----------+-------+--------------+ + | 4 to 12|Dresser cloths|Diaper or | | 11 |at 20_d._ | + | | | huckaback | | | | + +--------+--------------+-------------+----------+-------+--------------+ + | 6 to 12|Cooking cloths|Huckaback | 3 0 | 12 |at 1_s._ | + | 6 to 12|Roller towels |Ditto | 4 0 | 11 |at 1_s._ | + +--------+--------------+-------------+----------+-------+--------------+ + |12 to 24|Dusters |Blue linen | 1 0 | 12 |at 11_d._ | + | | | check | | | | + +--------+--------------+-------------+----------+-------+--------------+ + |24 to 36|Tea cloths |Soft linen | 12 | 12 |at 1_s._ 1_d._| + |24 to 36|Knife cloths |Linen | 8 | 8 |at 1_s._ | + | 6 to 12|Pudding cloths|Old linen | 12 | 12 | | + | 2 |Jelly bags |Flannel | | |at 1_s._ 4_d._| + +--------+--------------+-------------+----------+-------+--------------+ + | |Ham and bacon |Brown earn | | |at 1_s._ | + | | bags | | | | | + +--------+--------------+-------------+----------+-------+--------------+ + | 6 to 12|Cheese cloths |Canvass or | 12 | 8 |at 8_d._ | + | | | cheese cloth| | | | + +--------+--------------+-------------+----------+-------+--------------+ + + +STABLE LINEN. + +SCALE. + + +-----------------+-----------------+---------+--------+ + | ———————— | Kind of Linen. | Length. | Width. | + +-----------------+-----------------+---------+--------+ + | | | Nails. | Nails. | + | Carriage cloths | Soft linen | 12 | 12 | + | Paint ditto | Old silk | | | + | Flannels | Soft but coarse | | | + | Saddle-cases | See “Cases” | | | + +-----------------+-----------------+---------+--------+ + +[Illustration: PLATE 21 + +Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 + +Fig. 6 Fig. 4 + +Fig. 5 Fig. 7 11 Fig. 16 17 + +Fig. 8 12 9 13 18 + +10 14 19 + +21 23 24 26 28 31 34 37 15 + +25 27 32 35 38 40 41 42 + +22 29 30 33 36 39 43 44 45 + +46 47 48 49 50 51 52 58 59 60 + +53 54 55 56 57 61 66 + +64 65 62 63 67] + + +SHEETS. + +These are of different sizes and qualities, which are regulated by the +size of the bed, and other circumstances. + +Gentleman’s families generally have three and sometimes more qualities +of sheeting. The finest and best for the spare beds; the second quality +for the general use of the family; and the third, of a commoner kind +for servants; where there are several children, it is good economy to +have bed-linen of an intermediate quality, for their use. + +For those families who are in the habit of going periodically to the +sea-side, it is a good plan to have calico sheets for the express +purpose, for several reasons; in the first place, they take much less +room than the linen in packing; secondly, if lost during the journey, +they, not being of such value as linen, it will not be of so much +importance; and thirdly, as very indifferent washerwomen are usually +met with at watering or sea-bathing places, it would be a pity that +linen sheets should run the risk of being badly washed or discoloured. + +Invalids, infants, and young children should have sheets and pillow +cases of fine calico, as they are warmer and considered more wholesome, +especially in hot weather, when persons are liable to perspire. + +Sheets should, if possible, be of such a width as to avoid a seam in +the middle, but they seldom can be procured of more than two yards and +three-quarters wide, which size, though wide enough for a good double +family bed, is still rather within that usually adopted for spare beds. + +In making up, if they are in two breadths, sew them together firmly, +but with neat small stitches, the ends are turned down, as if for +hemming, but they are sewed in the same manner as the tops of shifts. + +Sheets should be marked at the corner with the initials of the master +of the house alone, or with those of the master and mistress, with the +set to which it belongs, the number and the date, for instance:— + + H. M. S. + F. + 4 + ..38 + +Signifies Henry and Mary Saville, family sheets, the 4th pair, 1838. + +B may be put for the best sheets, F for family, S for servants. + +The stock of sheets should depend on the number of beds, allowing, upon +an average, either three sheets or two pair for each bed. + +When worn in the middle, sheets should be turned, that is, unpicked +down the seam, and the two outer selvages sewn together, so that the +inner selvages thus become the outer, and the sheet is equally worn. + + Best sheeting, four yards wide, costs per yard 6_s._ 6_d._ to 8_s._ + Ditto, three yards wide, costs per yard 5_s._ 3_d._ + Second best sheeting, four yards wide, costs per yard 4_s._ 6_d._ to 5_s._ + Ditto, three yards wide, costs per yard 2_s._ 9_d._ to 4_s._ + Servants’ common, one yard wide, costs per yard 8_d._ to 1_s._ 6_d._ + Ditto, two yards wide, costs per yard 1_s._ 6_d._ to 2_s._ + Ditto, two yards and a quarter wide, costs per yard 2_s._ to 3_s._ + Ditto, two yards and a half wide, costs per yard 2_s._ 6_d._ to 4_s._ + Servants’ common sheeting, two yards and three + quarters wide, costs 3_s._ to 5_s._ + Ditto, three yards wide, costs per yard 4_s._ to 7_s._ 6_d._ + Fine calico, two yards wide, costs per yard 1_s._ 8_d._ to 2_s._ 3_d._ + Ditto, one yard and a half wide, costs per yard 1_s._ 2_d._ to 1_s._ 8_d._ + Unbleached calico, one yard wide, costs per yard 4_d._ to 8_d._ + Ditto, wide width, costs per yard 10_d._ to 1_s._ 6_d._ + +There is a common kind of calico sold in the piece, or whole sheet, for +the poor, which is both warm and cheap. + + +PILLOW CASES OR SLIPS. + +These are made of fine linen for the best, and of coarser linen and +calico for the family and servants’ use. + +Procure your material of a width which corresponds with the length of +the pillow; cut it one yard and three nails down the selvage. Fold the +piece in half its length and sew it up; one end is also sewed up to +form the bottom; at the other end, a broad hem is made, say half a nail +wide, and strings or buttons sewed on to fasten in the pillow. It is a +good plan, followed by some managing housekeepers, to cover the pillows +with linen or calico, which is slightly sewed on, and the pillow cover +is slipped over it. The advantage gained is, that it makes the pillow +case look particularly white, and as it is of no consequence whether it +is of linen or calico, the first cover may be made of any old pieces of +either that happen to be in the house. + +The stock of pillow cases must depend on the number of pillows to each +bed; some beds have four belonging to them, while others have only +two; each pillow in daily use, should have two slips belonging to it, +and spare beds might have a cover to each pillow, and half the number +besides, for the washing. + +In addition to the full sized pillows, some persons have small ones +made of down, five or six nails square; they are a great comfort to +those who are in delicate health, or who suffer from cold. + + +TOWELS. + +These are always a yard long, and eleven or twelve nails wide; they may +be bought singly, with fringe at the edges, or in the piece, in which +case the ends are sewed, or very strongly hemmed. Nursery or school +towels have sometimes loops sewed to the ends by which they may be hung +to the wall. + +Best towels are made of fine diaper, similar to that used for +pinafores, and fine huckaback. + +The second quality is of diaper, of a different pattern, and rather a +coarser huckaback. + +Servants’ towels are of coarse huckaback. + +The stock of towels should depend upon circumstances, such as the +frequency or otherwise of washing; but upon an average, from six to +twelve should be allowed to each washing stand. + + +DRESSING-TABLE COVERS. + +These are of various kinds; sometimes merely a piece of diaper of +the proper size is used, at others, a kind of Marseilles quilting +made on purpose, and muslin or dimity, trimmed with fringe or frills. +Much depends on the shape of the toilet table; some have merely the +cover laid on the top, others are bordered along the sides and front +with frills or work. Some persons have merely a piece of oil-cloth, +the proper size, and bound with ribbon round the edge, upon their +dressing-tables and washing-stands they look neat and are very durable. + + +PINCUSHIONS. + +For these and their cover, see “Pincushions.” One cushion and two +covers should belong to each toilet table. + + +TABLE CLOTHS. + +These vary in quality, according to circumstances. The finest are the +most expensive, and are only used for company. The price varies not +only with the size, but also with the pattern. + +The material of which they are made is called damask, and may be +purchased up to a certain size in single table cloths, after which it +must be bought in the piece. + +Care should be taken in choosing a table cloth, to see that the edges +are even, and the threads regular. + + +DINNER NAPKINS. + +These are also made of damask, and vary in quality and price, according +to the pattern. + + The best are from 50_s._ to 60_s._ per dozen. + The second quality from 18_s._ to 45_s._ per dozen. + +Dinner napkins are folded in various ways, and are generally put upon +the plate, enclosing the roll or bread. The following modes are those +usually adopted. + + +THE HALF-PYRAMID SHAPE. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 7, 8, 9, 10. + +1st. Take the cloth as it comes from the wash, and open the square +length-wise, drawing the folded napkin to its fullest extent. + +2nd. Turn up the ends to meet in the centre. Fig. 7. + +3rd. Turn the napkin thus folded, so that the turned up ends are below, +or underneath. + +4th. Turn up each corner, half-handkerchief-wise, towards the centre. +Fig. 8. + +5th. Turn the cloth again the other side uppermost, and again turn the +corners up to the centre. Fig. 9. + +6th. Take hold of the corners, A B, and by drawing them under, make +the napkin stand on its end, so that C stands up, and the cloth is +supported by A B D. The bread is within the hollow, or between the +folds thus formed. + + +THE DIAMOND SHAPE. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 7, 8, 9, 11, 17. + +1st. Open the square length-wise, drawing out the napkin to its full +length. + +2nd. Fold the ends to meet in the centre. Fig. 7. + +3rd. Turn up each corner, half-handkerchief-wise, towards the centre. +Fig. 8. + +4th. Turn down the corners towards the centre. Fig. 11. + +5th. Turn the cloth entirely over, and it is ready. Fig. 9. The bread +is put in the mouth of the napkin, which should be turned on the plate +towards the person. Fig. 17. + + +ANOTHER MODE. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 12, 13, 14, 15, 18, 19. + +1st. Open the napkin length-wise. + +2nd. Fold it down from the centre, half-handkerchief-wise, at the +centre, leaving two long ends. Fig. 12, 18. + +3rd. Take the right hand piece, and draw it over towards the left hand, +making the point, B, lie upon the point, A, thus forming a second +half-handkerchief, Fig. 13; turn the end back towards the right from +the centre, fold it back again in several neat straight folds towards +the centre, Fig. 19; do the same with the left hand piece, Fig. 14, +turn the napkin, and it resembles a diamond on a square, Fig. 15. + +Napkins are often used to lay under fish, pastry, or sweet things, in +which case, they may be folded in the shape of a diamond, or else the +whole napkin, being first laid open, is plaited in regular and very +small folds till reduced to the proper width; it is then doubled down +a little at each end to secure the folds, and to make it fit the dish, +Fig. 16. + + +DOYLEYS. + +These may be either white or coloured, and are sometimes open, of six +nails square; they are generally fringed. + + The best linen doyleys are about 11_s._ 6_d._ per dozen. + The second linen quality, 8_s._ per dozen. + The common sort or cotton, 4_s._ to 5_s._ 3_d._ per dozen. + + +KNIFE-BOX CLOTHS. + +These are used to lay in the knife boxes, to prevent their being +creased, and should be of thick but soft linen. + + +PANTRY KNIFE CLOTHS. + +These are for wiping knives and forks with, when cleaning them; they +should be of common but strong material. + + +PANTRY DRESSER CLOTHS. + +These are useful and neat in appearance; they save the paint of the +dresser from being scratched. The length and width must of course +depend on that of the dresser. They are made of coarse damask, or +tolerably fine huckaback. + + +PLATE-BASKET CLOTHS. + +This is a sort of bag to place within the plate-basket, in order to +prevent the sides being greased by the plates, which would cause it to +smell disagreeably. These bags are made of linen and fit the basket; a +circle is cut the size of the bottom, and the sides are equally well +fitted, and sewed to it; these sides are made to hang over outside +the basket, a sufficient depth to allow it either to have a tape run +through the hem, to draw it round under the rim, or it should have +slits to fit over the handles, by which it is secured tolerably firmly +to the basket. + + +PANTRY CHINA CLOTHS. + +These are used for washing and wiping china, they should be of a soft +and rather thin material, as linen or diaper. + + +PANTRY GLASS CLOTHS. + +These are used for glass, and should be as thin, or thinner than the +china cloths. Old silk handkerchiefs are sometimes allowed in addition, +to give the finishing polish to glass. + + +PANTRY LAMP CLOTHS. + +These are for cleaning lamps and candlesticks, and are of flannel, +linen, and silk. + + +PANTRY APRONS. + +Are worn by men servants, whilst at their work; for a description of +them, see “Aprons.” + + +WAITING GLOVES. + +These should belong to the pantry linen, as they give a clean +appearance, and are particularly desirable for coachmen, and +out-of-door servants, who are occasionally required to wait at table. +These gloves are of woven cotton, and should be marked with their +number, &c. + + +HOUSEMAID’S LINEN. + + +DUSTERS. + +These are used for dusting furniture, &c.; they should be of strong and +good quality; linen is generally used, though some persons have a kind +of blue cotton check, but it wears badly, and therefore, though cheap, +is bad economy in the end. + + +SCOURING FLANNELS. + +These should be made of strong coarse flannel, not of a very open +texture, or they wear out soon. As they do not last long, it is of +no use to mark them further than by over-casting them with different +coloured worsteds, to prevent the edges becoming ragged, and to +distinguish the kitchen ones from those used up stairs. + + +PAINT CLOTHS. + +These should be of old soft linen, as, if they are new and hard, they +are apt to scratch the paint. + + +CHAMBER BOTTLE CLOTHS. + +Are used for wiping the jugs, glasses, and basins; they should be soft +and not too thick. + + +CHAMBER BUCKET CLOTHS. + +These are for the slop-bucket, and should be of a different colour and +pattern to any other, for fear of getting them mixed, and employed for +other uses. Blue or lilac checks or stripes are good for the purpose. + + +CLOTHES BAGS. + +The size of these must depend entirely upon the use for which they are +destined. They are generally made of linen, especially when large. The +largest size is two yards long, of two breadths before sewed up; the +small ones, two yards long, of one breadth before sewed up. + + +PINAFORES. + +These are worn by servants while making beds, as, after emptying slops, +cleaning grates, dusting rooms, &c., the clothes are apt to soil the +bed-linen, which is very unpleasant and untidy. + + +KITCHEN LINEN. + + +TABLE CLOTHS. + +These should be made of coarse and often unbleached diaper; the size +must depend on the number of servants, or rather on the length of the +table. + + +DRESSER CLOTHS. + +These are laid on the dressers and cooking tables, and are of huckaback +or coarse diaper; they should be merely the width of the dresser, and +long enough to fall over a little at each end. + + +ROLLER CLOTHS. + +These are very useful, and are fastened upon rollers fixed against the +kitchen doors or walls. They are one breadth, and four yards long, the +ends being sewed together; they are put upon the roller, and are used +by servants after washing their hands in the kitchen. + + +KITCHEN DUSTERS + +are made of strong cloth; often of blue linen check. + + +KITCHEN TEA CLOTHS + +are of thin linen, and used for wiping tea things, &c. + + +KITCHEN KNIFE CLOTHS + +are made of any common old linen, used for wiping the knives and forks. + + +PUDDING CLOTHS. + +As these are liable to be stained, they should be made of old towels or +other coarse linen. + + +JELLY BAGS. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 2. + +These are made of flannel, and are in the shape of a half handkerchief +cut from the square of a yard, the sides being sewed together, it +resembles a reversed sugar loaf. The top is hemmed and has three loops +sewed to it, which loop on to the corners of a frame which is made on +purpose. + + +HAM BAGS. + +These are made of earn, strong canvass or sacking, and are made of the +same shape as a ham, or else are square, as a common bag; if the former +is preferred, the wide end or mouth is hemmed, and has strings drawn +through it, so that when the ham is put in, the bag is drawn up and +hung up by them to the hooks in the ceiling. Bacon is also put into +bags, which must be open at the long side, with an ample space to admit +of the bacon being put in. + + +CHEESE CLOTHS. + +These are made of a material usually called in the shops “cheese +cloth”; it is a kind of thin canvass. + + +STABLE LINEN. + +No remarks are necessary under this head, excepting as respects +saddle-cases, which should be furnished always for ladies’ saddles, +as they are liable to be moth-eaten, being stuffed. They should be of +linen or brown Holland, like a bag, cut out a little to the shape of +the saddle they are to contain. + +Harness should always be hung against matting or drugget, instead of +against the naked wall; those parts of the harness not in general use, +may also be put in bags. + + +GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON LINEN. + +House linen should be purchased of various patterns, according to the +use for which it is intended, and a great difference should be made +between kitchen, housemaid’s and pantry linen, so that they may not +easily be mixed, for servants frequently forget to look at the marks, +and the tea cloths should be easily distinguishable from the glass or +china cloths. + +House linen should be marked very clearly and fully for this purpose; +ink is better than silk: it is well to mark all pantry things P, +kitchen K, house H, and stable S, but the use should be more fully +marked, thus “P china cloth,” or “K duster,” is not at all more than is +useful. + +Plate 21, Fig. 5, is a drawing of a very convenient linen press, being +a kind of bin or chest, to contain dirty linen, placed between two +cupboards, three feet wide and twenty inches deep, and from six to +seven feet high. The doors of these cupboards may be in two parts, if +preferred to one, so that the pantry linen may be divided from the +kitchen on the one side, and the housemaid’s from the bed-room on the +other; the stable linen and any that is old may be put in the two +drawers under the cupboards; the apparent drawers under the bin are +false. + +The bin is four feet and a half long, twenty inches deep, and three +feet high; it should have two lids on hinges, and a division inside +down the centre, so that wearing apparel may be kept separate from +the house linen; over the bin is a shelf, on which may be kept +clothes-baskets, &c., and beneath the shelf, lists of the linen may be +hung; an inkstand and washing books might also stand there. + +The cupboards should have moveable shelves, with slides all down the +sides. It is an excellent plan to paste on the edges of these shelves, +tickets of card-board, on which are written the name and number of +the article upon the shelf. Thus, a ticket with “best sheets, 6 +pair,” is placed on the edge of the shelf on which they lie; perhaps, +“best pillow cases, 12 pair,” will be side by side with the sheets, +the ticket belonging to them will therefore be on the edge of the +same shelf. This arrangement is useful both to mistress and servant, +particularly when a change takes place in the household. Fig. 6. + +House linen should be counted over once a year at least. + +A card containing a list of articles, together with the number and +the mark, should be fastened within the cupboard, together with +another list containing the quantity of linen allowed per week for the +laundress, and the price to be paid the washerwoman for each article. + +A linen press should be kept in the most perfect order. + + +REMARKS. + +In purchasing house linen, it is a good plan to buy it in the piece, +whether wanted at the time or not; by this means, you have always +plenty of new linen by you, which being cut up, may be made by the +the servants when there is any spare time, they should also be marked, +so that when a towel or any thing wants replacing, it can be done +immediately, and it does not appear nearly so great a tax on the purse +when several things are wanted at once; much time is thus saved, and +when things are bought in the piece they are charged less. + +Shirt fronts, collars, and wristbands, children’s shifts, shirts and +pinafores, with several other articles might also be cut out in the +same manner, so that there is a constant supply of new linen ready-made +when wanted. This plan, of course, only answers with large families +where children of all sizes are to be fitted. + +Very convenient washing books may be printed for families who pay for +their washing by the piece, with the prices affixed, of which the +following is a specimen. + +It is the best economy to wash by the year, or by the quarter, in +places where it can be done, and by the score or dozen in preference to +the piece. A calculation may easily be made so as to be quite fair both +to the washerwoman and her employer. + + +COUNTRY PRICES. + +NURSERY WASHING BOOK. + + _Betty Powell_, _For Mrs. Wilson_. + + Date. Date. + March March + 1st. 1st. + Number. Number. Price. £. _s._ _d._ + =========+========+=============================+=====+===+====+==== + | | | _d._| | | + 8 | 8 | Aprons | ½ | | | 4 + 2 | 2 | Bands | ½ | | | 1 + 5 | 5 | Caps | 1 | | | 5 + 7 | 7 | —— Night | ½ | | | 3½ + | | —— Flannel | ½ | | | + | | Cloaks | 3 | | | + | | Frills | 1 | | | + | | Frocks | 2 | | | + | | Gowns, Night | 2 | | | + | | —— Flannel | 2 | | | + | | —— Dressing | 3 | | | + | | Handkerchiefs | ½ | | | + | | —— Neck | ½ | | | + | | Long Infant’s Robes | 3 | | | + | | —— Petticoats | 2 | | | + | | —— Day-Flannels | 2 | | | + | | —— Night-Flannels | 2 | | | + | | —— Day-Gowns | 2 | | | + | | —— Night-Gowns | 2 | | | + | | Napkins | ½ | | | + | | Petticoats | 1 | | | + | | —— Flannel | 2 | | | + | | Pinafores | ½ | | | + | | Saccarines | 2 | | | + | | Stockings, pairs of | 1 | | | + | | Socks, pairs of | ½ | | | + | | Shifts | 1 | | | + | | Shirts | ½ | | | + | | Shawls | 1 | | | + | | —— Flannel | 1 | | | + | | Spencers | 1 | | | + | | Tippet and Sleeves | 1 | | | + | | Trowsers | 2 | | | + | | Leglets | ½ | | | + | | Waistcoats | 1 | | | + | | Cradle Covers | 2 | | | + | | —— Sheets | 1 | | | + | | —— Blankets | 2 | | | + | | —— Coverlets | 3 | | | + | | —— Pillow Cases | ½ | | | + | | Towels | ½ | | | + | | Pincushion Covers | ½ | | | + | | Pieces of lace | 1 | | | + | | Mending | | | | + March 4.| | | | | | + £1. 11 2½ | | | | | | + Settled,| | | +---+----+--- + _E. P._ | | | £ | 1 | 11 | 2½ + | | | +---+----+--- + + +LADY’S WASHING BOOK. + + Number. Number. Price. £._s._ _d._ + --------+--------+---------------------------+-------+---+----+---- + | | Aprons | ½ | | | + | | Caps, Bonnet | 1 | | | + | | —— Night | 1 | | | + | | Collars | 1 | | | + | | Dresses | 4 or 6| | | + | | Dressing-Gowns | 3 | | | + | | Flannel ditto | 3 | | | + | | Drawers | 1 | | | + | | Flannel Petticoats | 1 | | | + | | Flannel Drawers | 2 | | | + | | Flannel Waistcoats | 1 | | | + | | Frills | 1 | | | + | | Habit-Shirts | ½ | | | + | | Jackets | 2 | | | + | | Night-Gowns | 2 | | | + | | Neck Handkerchiefs | ½ | | | + | | Pocket ditto | ½ | | | + | | Napkins | ½ | | | + | | Pockets | ½ | | | + | | Petticoats | 2 | | | + | | Socks, pairs of | 1 | | | + | | Stockings, pairs of | 1 | | | + | | Shifts | 2 | | | + | | Stays | 6 | | | + | | Skirts | 2 | | | + | | Shawls | 2 | | | + | | Tippets | 1 | | | + + +GENTLEMEN’S WASHING BOOK. + + Number. Number. Price. £. _s._ _d._ + --------+--------+---------------------------+-------+---+----+---- + | | Breeches, pairs of | 3 | | | + | | Dressing-Gowns | 3 | | | + | | —— Flannel | 3 | | | + | | Drawers | 2 | | | + | | —— Flannel | 2 | | | + | | Flannel Waistcoats | 1 | | | + | | Jackets | 1 | | | + | | Night-caps | ½ | | | + | | Nightshirts | 2 | | | + | | Neck handkerchiefs | 1 | | | + | | Pocket ditto | ½ | | | + | | Socks, pairs of | 1 | | | + | | Stockings, pairs of | 1 | | | + | | Shirts | 3 | | | + | | Shirt Collars | 1 | | | + | | Waistcoats | 1½ | | | + | | Under Waistcoats | 1 | | | + +HOUSE LINEN WASHING BOOK. + + Number. Number. Price. £. _s._ _d._ + --------+--------+---------------------+--------------+---+----+---- + | | | | | | + | |Bed Furniture |2_s._ 6_d._ | | | + | |Blankets, per pair |8_d._ or 1_s._| | | + | |Counterpanes |1_s._ | | | + | |Chair covers | ½_d._ | | | + | |Dusters and Cloths | ½_d._ | | | + | |Doyleys | ½_d._ | | | + | |Jack or Roller Towels|1_d._ | | | + | |Kitchen Cloths | ½_d._ | | | + | |Napkins | ½_d._ | | | + | |Pillow Cases | ½_d._ | | | + | |Sheets, pairs of |2_d._ or 4_d._| | | + | |Sofa Covers |3_d._ | | | + | |Table Cloths |2_d._ or 4_d._| | | + | |Towels | ½_d._ | | | + | |Window Curtains |2_d._ | | | + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +ON UPHOLSTERY. + + +As some knowledge of upholstery is of importance to the head of every +establishment, a few general observations relating to the fitting up of +beds, windows, and other articles of furniture requiring much drapery; +also, blinds, carpets, &c., may be advantageously inserted in this +work; as, in families of limited income, it is a great saving to make +up the above mentioned articles at home. + +The Author has only introduced those patterns which, from their +simplicity, may always be used, without being decidedly in or out +of fashion. It is strongly recommended to those who can afford the +expense, to employ an experienced upholsterer, as the patterns will not +only be more in fashion, but more tastefully and regularly put up, than +they could possibly be by any one unaccustomed to the business. + +Great accuracy is necessary for the graceful arrangement of drapery. + + +BEDSTEADS. + +PLATE 22. + +There are various shaped bedsteads, and consequently numerous modes of +fitting them up, the most simple of which will be explained in their +proper order. + +[Illustration: PLATE 22 + +Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 7 Fig 8 + +Fig 10 Fig 9 Fig 11 Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 14 + +Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 19 Fig 20 + +Fig 21 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 24 Fig 25 + +Fig 27 Fig 29 Fig 30 + +Fig 26 Fig 28 Fig 31] + +In providing bedsteads, it is always better to purchase them quite +new, even when required for the commonest purposes, as those which are +second-hand are liable to harbour bugs, which it takes both time and +patience to get rid of. + +It is desirable that all bedsteads should have castors to roll upon, +that they may be the more readily moved about. Observe likewise that +there are valance sticks, curtain rods, and a good head board. + +The best bedsteads are made of mahogany and oak: the commoner sorts, of +beech, stained red or painted. Those for hospitals or prisons, of iron; +supposed to be a preventative against bugs. + +Brass bedsteads are used abroad, especially by travellers, and are +ornamental and durable, but very expensive. + +The following is a list of the different kinds of bedsteads in general +use:— + + The four-post bed, from £2. 10_s._ upwards, Plate 22, Fig. 2. + The tent bed, — £2. 0_s._ —— — 22, — 15. + The camp, — £2. 0_s._ —— — 22, — 16. + The half-tester, — 18_s._ —— — 22, — 19. + The French pole, — £1. 18_s._ —— — 22, — 21. + The French arrow bed, — £1. 10_s._ —— — 22, — 22. + The canopy bed, — £2. 0_s._ —— — 22, — 25. + The French block bed, — £2. 0_s._ —— — 22, — 24. + The turn-up bed, — £2. 0_s._ —— — 22, — 26. + The stump bed, — 9_s._ —— — 22, — 31. + The trestle or x, — 9_s._ —— — 22, — 27. + +Besides which may be added, hanging beds or cots, hammocks, cribs, sofa +or chair beds, &c. + + +HINTS ON PUTTING UP BEDS. + +So few ladies or servants understand how to put up or take down +bedsteads, that the following instructions are entered upon at full +length. An instrument called a bed key should be procured for the +purpose (see Plate 22, Fig. 1), after which proceed as follows:—Divide +the high upright posts for the head of the bed, from those intended for +the foot; the former are easily distinguished from the latter, being +usually square and perfectly plain, whereas those for the foot are +generally circular and ornamented. + +Place the two head posts near that part of the wall where the bed is +to stand. Lay the foot posts below them on the floor, first observing +whether there are any marks or numbers upon them, by which you can be +directed to place the proper foot post opposite to its corresponding +head post; next lay the side and end pieces in their proper places; the +longer ones for the sides, and the shorter for the ends; these should +also be marked to point out their relative situations. Lay the head +board at the top, and the foot board at the bottom, and afterwards put +one long and one short screw at each corner of the bedstead. Assistance +must now be procured to rear up the four posts and set in the sides. +Three persons are necessary to effect this, but four are better for a +full sized bed. + +Raise up the posts and set between them the side pieces, taking care +to slip into the groove, both the head and the foot boards, as they +cannot be put in after the posts are screwed together, unless they +button against them. The four long screws are intended to screw into +the sides, and the four short ones into the ends. The screw holes are +placed behind the little brass plates usually put on the legs of the +posts. Proceed with the bed key to turn each screw till firmly fixed in +the hole. + +The sacking is next tightly laced up with strong cord, and ought to be +pulled together and knotted by a man, as a woman is scarcely strong +enough to do it effectually. The top-rails are next put on by slipping +the holes at the ends over the spikes at the tops of the bed posts. + +The curtains are generally put on before the outer cornice, this last +is generally fastened on by a spring, or by hooks, or some other simple +contrivance. + +Camp or tent beds have ribs or bars across the roof of the bed to keep +the curved top firm, but in other respects, differ little from the +four-post bed. + +Observe, on taking down a bed, to mark carefully upon the pieces, +before removing them, different numbers, so as easily to place them in +their proper situations when next put up. + +The head of a half-tester bedstead, should be very strongly attached +to the back, as its weight will endanger its falling, if not firmly +secured. + +The other shapes will be entered upon when the mode of furnishing them +is explained. + + +ON FURNISHING BEDS. + +Beds are furnished with the following articles, which with the addition +of sheets and pillow cases, explained in the article of house linen, +make them complete. + + The drapery, including curtains. + The straw mattress. + The wool or hair mattress. + The feather bed. + The bolster. + The two or three pillows. + The quilt or counterpane. + The blankets. + The watch-pockets. + +Beds for common use are hung with linen or cotton check, or stripe, +print or stuff, but for better purposes, with dimity, fine stuff, +moreen, damask, chintz, Turkey twill, and lined with glazed calico or +muslin of various colours, and for state-rooms, fine silk, satin, or +velvet is employed. + +The modes of fitting up beds are various, according to the shape of +the bedstead, as well as to the taste. The most usual and simple +methods alone will be treated of here, all best beds and drapery for +sitting-rooms should be put up by regular upholsterers, as it requires +much correctness of eye, added to taste and knowledge of the prevailing +fashion. + +The following observations on taste, on the choice of materials, +and arrangement of drapery, generally speaking, will be found worth +attending to. + +Beds that are placed in small and low rooms should be hung with as +little drapery, as is consistent with comfort. Large valances, deep +fringes, high mattresses look bustling, and are not so airy and +therefore not so healthful as plenty of open space. + +Beds placed in lofty rooms should be high, and have deep fringe and +valances, otherwise they will have a mean appearance, still if the room +be narrow, the less bulk of drapery the better. + +Beds situated in dark gloomy rooms should be furnished with a cheerful +airy material, at the same time avoiding too violent a contrast with +the character of the room, furniture, or carpet. Every thing must be +taken into consideration and is worth attending to, for with a little +judgment, a room may be more elegantly furnished than another where six +times the money has been laid out, if not under the direction of taste. + +Blue is pretty, but rather cold; yellow gives great cheerfulness, as +also pink, but the latter is apt to fade soon and is perhaps a little +too shewy. Crimson, claret, stone-colour, buff, and light green all +look well; a darker green is very refreshing to the eye, and therefore +suitable for very light sunny rooms. + +Beds that are furnished with thick drapery, as stuff, moreen, damask or +linens, seldom, if ever, require linings, while chintzes and sometimes +dimities are lined with glazed calico, in which case, care should be +taken that the colour of the lining harmonizes not only with the bed +furniture, but with the papering of the room. The fringe, tassels, +ribbons, cord, and other decorations, should match in colour with the +lining. The pattern of the material should also be a consideration. +Stripes or small patterns are suitable for small rooms, while large +flowers or patterns best accord with large ones. + + +ON THE VARIOUS MODES OF DECORATING BED FURNITURE. + +Beds are generally decorated with tassels or fringe, if the latter, +lace is usually laid on, at about a nail above the edge upon the hem +which is turned up. Sometimes the lining is cut larger than the outer +part, and brought over the edge to form a hem of a nail deep all round +the material outside. This looks pretty and simple. If the cornice be +a common one, the valance may be made with a kind of frill or heading +above, or a band or rouleau of the material laid above the valance +round which may be wrapped strips of the coloured lining of half an +inch, or even a nail in width. Cords in festoons, cut velvet, binding +and ornamental gimp or open work, are often employed. White dimity +furniture is sometimes lined with coloured calico with turned up hems, +sometimes merely coloured hems, at others finished with white fringe, +or frills with white cords and tassels. + + +ON FURNISHING A FULL SIZED FOUR-POST BED. + +Bed furniture is composed of a top, a back, two head curtains, two foot +curtains, one top outer and one top inner valance, one bottom valance, +and sometimes extra drapery laid on the back of the bed. + +When beds are lined, the lining is put inside the curtains, and within +the top and back of the bed. If there is any drapery laid upon the +back, it is generally composed of the outer chintz, as is also the +inside top valance. + +Large sheets of coarse brown paper pasted together in lengths should be +laid over the beds to catch the dust. Some persons lay harden or coarse +linen between the head of the bed and these sheets of paper. + +The furniture for beds must be cut differently, according to the +pattern of the material. If it is in stripes down the selvage the +valances are cut in breadths, if otherwise, upholsterers generally cut +them along the selvage, as they are less liable to shrink when cleaned +or washed. + + +PLAIN DRAPERY FOR A LARGE SIZED FOUR-POST BED. + +PLATE 22. FIG. 3. + + If in If cut down + Breadths. the Selvage. + + Width of head curtains, each 2 breadths 2 breadths + Width of each foot curtain 4 or 5 4 or 5 + Width of foot valance all round 9 or 11 11 yards. + Width of the top outside valance 15 breadths 16 yards. + Width of the top inside valance 11 breadths 11 yards. + +The back and head must be exactly measured, letting the selvage-way +ran from head to foot of the bed. The curtains should just touch the +ground, as also should the foot valance. The inner top valance should +be half a nail narrower than the outer. In making up, the curtains are +bound round, or if lined, sometimes the lining is brought outside to +form a hem all round. Lace is often laid on at about one nail from the +edge. The valances accord with the rest, having often fringe added to +gve a greater finish. + + +FESTOON HANGINGS. + +PLATE 22. FIG. 4. + +In making festoon valances or hangings, measure as follows:— + +Divide the side of the bed in half, driving in a small tack as a mark. +Hang a piece of tape from the middle of the side to the end, Fig. 7, +making it fall in the droop or curve desired (see A B C, Fig. 7). Do +the same with another piece of tape, making it fall in the direction +of the upper part of the droop (see D E). Lay the material, Fig. 5, +on the table, and after taking down the pieces of tape, measure the +material from A to B, the length of the lower droop. Put a pin (see +D) immediately above B, upon the other selvage as a mark, and then +measure from the end, R, upon the selvage, the length of the upper +droop or shortest tape, which will fall at E, at some distance within +the mark D. Divide the space between D and E, exactly in half at G, and +cut from B to G; cut three other pieces to correspond, which, as they +exactly fit one with another (see Fig. 5), prevents waste. These four +pieces or breadths are for part of each of the four festoons, which +require a breadth and a half in each. For the half breadths fold the +material in exactly half its width, laying selvage along selvage, and +measure for the rest of the festoons (see Fig. 6). Upon the selvage +side, H, measure the length of the shortest part of the first breadths +already cut, and on the doubled side, measure the _exact_ length of +the smallest tape for the upper droop, L, and cut from H, to within a +nail of L, thus, when the doubled part is slit down, forming two half +breadths to correspond with the two whole breadths, making in all two +complete festoons. Cut two others, and the four festoons are complete, +and when the half breadths are sewed to the whole breadths, they appear +each similar to Fig. 10. Lay them one upon another, and slope off from +the straight end at the bottom A, about two nails from the sloped side, +B, and the festoons are ready to be made up. The bottom of the bed must +be measured with tape, and cut out in a similar manner. + +The corners of the festoons are cut as follows:— + +Measure off from the end, A, Fig. 8, down the selvage, the length +desired, putting a pin, B, in one of the selvages as a mark. Measure +the half of the length, A B, on the opposite selvage at D, and slope +off from D to B. This forms one head post corner, or half a foot post +corner, so that it requires six of these sloped lengths to complete +the four corners of the bedstead, and if cut properly to fit into each +other, no waste occurs. The Plate, Fig. 9, represents a head corner, +and Fig. 8, a foot corner or two breadths sewed together. + +Sometimes a double corner is also made to hang between the two +festoons, in which case, it is cut similarly to the above, excepting +that it is much shorter and rounder. When the festoon is carried over a +pole, it is all in one piece (see Fig. 11), the pieces being shaped at +the ends, as in the separate festoons above. + + +ANOTHER UPPER DRAPERY. + +PLATE 22. FIG. 12. + +This is simply a deep fringe, and looks exceedingly plain and handsome. +A back-piece or very narrow valance should be put outside, the inner +valance to accord exactly with the outer, to which the fringe is sewed. +The rod or pole should be handsome, and should be put outside this +valance, so as just to conceal the part where the fringe is attached. +The curtains are suspended to the rod by handsome rings, and draw +outside the valance and fringe. Cord and tassels may be added, if +preferred. + + +ANOTHER UPPER DRAPERY. + +PLATE 22. FIG. 13. + +This is simple and pretty, and takes less material than the full +valance; it is cut selvage-way of the material of such a depth as +will accord with both room and bedstead, and exactly to fit round +the cornice. This valance is cut in various shapes, either pointed, +rounded, vandyked, gothic or otherwise, and usually with tassels fixed +to each point or angle to give a finish. Cords may be hung in festoons +at pleasure. + + +ANOTHER UPPER BED DRAPERY. + +PLATE 22. FIG. 14. + +This is equally simple; it is cut in breadths and takes about nine on +each side, and seven at the bottom, to go round the bedstead; it is +sloped or cut nearly to a point in the middle of each of the three +sides, where a bow or ornament of some kind may be put. + + +ANOTHER UPPER BED DRAPERY. + +PLATE 22. FIG. 15. + +This is suitable for tent beds, and is hung with a succession of +festoons, made as explained before. + + +ANOTHER UPPER BED DRAPERY. + +PLATE 22. FIG. 16. + +This is intended for a camp bed, and is hung in festoons, having +however a back valance of plaited or plain material, which, together +with the curtains may, if preferred, be of a different colour to the +valances. + + +ON THE HEADS AND TOPS OF BEDS. + +These vary very much, being sometimes plain and at others ornamented. +The material must always lie selvage-way from head to foot, and never +crosswise of the bedstead. + +When plain, the material is stretched across so as to shew neither +crease nor wrinkle. Gimp is often laid down the seams and along the +sides. + +When the head is plain, it is usual to put two festoons to give it a +more finished appearance. These festoons should be of the same material +as the outer drapery. + +When full, Plate 22, Fig. 20, it takes four or more breadths, and is +set evenly into a band of webbing, which is tacked on to the bed, or +with loops hung firmly to hooks, so as not to tear the furniture. + +When starred, Plate 22, Fig. 17, it generally takes eight breadths, +four at the corners, and the other four top and bottom, and the sides, +these must be shaped to form the square. It is all drawn to a centre +and fastened with a brass star. Sometimes they are half starred, as in +Fig. 18, where the plaits radiate from just above the pillow. + + +ON FOOT BOARDS. + +These are generally entirely solid wood, but sometimes the foot board +is merely a handsome frame of mahogany containing the same material as +the lining of the bed furniture. + +Fig. 11 represents a foot board of wood only. + +Fig. 15 represents a foot board starred within the frame with chintz or +calico. + + +THE HALF-TESTER. + +PLATE 22. FIG. 19, 20. + +These may be trimmed in a variety of ways, either festoons, as in +Fig. 19, valances, or plain, and cut out in vandykes and scollops, as +in Fig. 20. This last looks pretty and simple, and as it gives the +appearance of great lightness to the head, it is preferable to the +others. The backs should be hung to accord with the outside. + +Fig. 19 may be plain, with festoons of the outer material. + +Fig. 20, with a simple inside valance, or the back fulled or gathered +into a half star, or set in flutes. + + +FRENCH POLE BED. + +PLATE 22. FIG. 21. + +This is a compact, pretty shaped bed, and as it can be easily moved +about, or taken to pieces, it is convenient in an invalid’s room as an +extra bed. Two poles which rise from the head and foot board, support +the curtain rod which should be handsomely finished, and might be +fastened on by pushing the ends through the rings or circular holes +formed at the top of the supporters, and large ends screwed on to fix +it firmly. The four curtains have three breadths in each, and are +bound together firmly at the top. Rings must be fastened on, through +which the rod is drawn, and fastened to the supporters. Tassels may be +hung, and cords if preferred. Valances being put round, the drapery is +complete. Sometimes the two curtains, falling one on each side, are +sewed together behind. + + +THE FRENCH ARROW BED. + +PLATE 22. FIG. 22. + +This bedstead is much the same shape as the pole bed, excepting that +it has no supporters or curtain rod, and therefore, when hung with +drapery, requires being placed near the wall, into which a pin or arrow +is driven, over which the drapery is hung. This shaped bedstead, when +not hung with drapery, is particularly desirable for servants, or for +schools, as the danger of fire is lessened, and if nicely finished and +painted looks neat and respectable, besides being economical and clean. +When hung, sew nine or eleven breadths together according to the size +of the bedstead. Measure the length with a piece of tape, allowing it +to droop as it lies from the top of the pole over the foot board to the +floor. Sew the breadths up all the seams, and then, after dividing the +whole width in half, marking it with a pin, hem the whole, and draw it +up folded in two, sewing it firmly to a case which should be made to +slip on the pole, something like an umbrella case. Another, and perhaps +a better mode, is that of sewing rings to the doubled part thus drawn +up, which will slip on to the pole, the head or knob of which when +screwed on, would prevent the rings from falling off. + + +FRENCH BED. + +PLATE 22. FIG. 23. + +The drapery to this bed is exactly similar to the arrow French bed, +excepting that it is passed over a hook secured to the ceiling, in +preference to a pole from the wall. + + +FRENCH BLOCK BED. + +PLATE 22. FIG. 24. + +The drapery for this is also similar to that of the arrow French bed, +excepting that it is fastened with tacks round four sides of a handsome +mahogany block fixed to the ceiling. To this should be added a handsome +valance or deep fringe to hide the fastenings of the drapery. + + +THE FRENCH CANOPY BED. + +PLATE 22. FIG. 25. + +The bedstead and drapery are as the preceding, but fastened to a head +or crown secured to the wall having round it festoons as a finish. + +Sometimes the head is supported by rods from the bedstead. A valance is +added to complete it. + + +THE TURN-UP BED. + +PLATE 22. FIG. 26. + +This is also useful as an extra bed for invalids, or for small rooms, +as it takes up but little space, can be easily moved, and when turned +up, looks neat and tidy. In the one here represented, the sides are +made to draw out, the legs to unhook, and the top to take to pieces, +so that the whole can be packed in a small compass when not wanted. +In making up the drapery, the back may be full, plain or starred; +the sides plain or plaited, and two curtains sewed on, so made as to +overlap each other a little in front. These curtains loop up at the +sides with cords. + + +THE PRESS BED. + +PLATE 22. FIG. 28. + +This shuts up still more completely than the turn-up bed, and forms +a chest or toilet table, when not in use; it looks very neat with +a simple toilet cover over the top. These beds are useful on some +occasions, in towns and in small houses, although they are not +generally considered wholesome, being low and rather confined. They are +sometimes lined with glazed calico, and a cover put outside of dimity, +frilled round the top, to which is sewed a piece of the same material, +very much fulled all round, to open in the middle of the front, down +each side of which is put a frill or fringe. + + +THE STUMP BED. + +PLATE 22. FIG. 31. + +These are principally used by cottagers, and men servants, and require +no drapery, they are called stump bedsteads because the head posts are +short, not being higher than is sufficient to admit of a head board. + +Sometimes cottagers attach a kind of curtain to a hook in the wall, +which adds much to their warmth and comfort, and would appear like a +half French bed. This drapery might be two breadths behind, and two +on each side, making six in all, which should be doubled and gathered +to a strong webbing. Baize, calimanco, or cotton check would be very +suitable. + + +THE TRESTLE BED. + +PLATE 22. FIG. 27. + +This is the most simple and most common kind of bedstead made, and from +its construction, is not calculated to support a very heavy person, all +the strength depending upon the power of the two pins or screws which +fasten the legs. No drapery is used unless fastened to the wall as in +the above stump bedstead. A head board, with two pins, slips into the +holes at the top. + + +THE HANGING BED OR COT. + +PLATE 22. FIG. 29, 30. + +These are excellent things for children, especially where there is a +large family of sons; for officers’ families who are often obliged to +change their residence, they are particularly desirable, on account of +their cheapness, durability, and the little space they occupy. They are +only proper for single beds, but are sufficiently strong for a grown-up +person. They would answer exceedingly well for cottagers, as in the day +time, they might be drawn up to the ceiling, thus affording more room +in the apartment for washing, or performing other household duties. +They are made for the higher classes as follows:— + +Procure a strong frame of wood, of about six feet long, and two feet +and a half wide, also two round poles of wood, two feet long and about +two inches in diameter. Get some strong ticking, or if it be covered +and lined, a kind of thick sacking would do, which might have a cover +of chintz, and lining of glazed calico. This sacking must be cut +according to the Plate 22, Fig. 29, allowing in addition to the size of +the frame, three feet at each end, and eighteen inches at the sides. +The ends have a strong hem or case sewed to them, into which the poles +are slipped. The four sides have lace-holes large enough to admit of +strong coloured cord to lace them together. The frame is let into the +square thus formed, having previously fastened to the sides two pieces +of ticking, one sewed on each long side at the bottom. + +Put the frame into the square, having, however, first firmly fastened +at the bottom of the square, another piece of ticking, which shall +lace over the frame, down the length of the cot, so as to make a kind +of straight waistcoat, which keeps the frame firmly in place. Observe +that the cot, which is two feet six inches wide at the frame, is sloped +off to two feet at the ends where the poles are admitted, in order to +contract the sides a little, this keeps the clothes in place, and if +for a child, adds much to its safety. Crimson or other coloured ropes +should be employed to hang the cot from under the frame through hems +up the high ends, and out through holes made in the poles, afterwards +to meet at the hook in the ceiling on each side. A strong cord is also +run in at the hem along the long sides of the cot. Fringe may be added +at the bottom, if preferred. They should be hung at the same height +from the ground as common beds, the ropes should be very strong, and +be constantly looked at. They are better when fitted up with two thin +mattresses than with a mattress and bed. When not wanted, they will, if +unlaced, lie flat against a wall in a closet and take but little room. +They are hung from a ring on a hook in the ceiling. + +Very little cots might be made with advantage to hang in a carriage, or +within a very large four-post bed, where the mother might attend her +infant without rising in the night to the danger of taking cold. + +The expense of a handsomely fitted up cot would be about £2., but a +common one might be made for eight or ten shillings. + +There are no further observations to be made on beds, excepting that +the more readily the drapery can be taken off and put on to the +bedstead, the less will be the wear and tear, so that if small loops or +rings could be sewed on the valances, so as to loop over the cornice, +it would be desirable. Once or twice a year bed furniture should be +taken down and well dusted, rubbed with crusts of bread, and sometimes +calendered to keep it in order. On leaving home, the curtains should +be rolled up to the top of the bed and put into linen bags, and the +cornices and valances taken down and covered up. + + +MATTRESSES. + +The first mattress usually laid on the bedstead is made of straw, it +is very thick, and as hard as a board; as these are never made at +home, nothing more will be said about them, excepting that they are +made in a frame, and should be covered with a very strong good tick or +Holland. + +The second mattress is made of horse-hair or wool for large beds; +and for children, of chaff, sea-weed, beech leaves, cocoa nut fibre, +paper, and many other things of the sort; chaff and horse-hair appear +the most desirable, from being cool, and neither too soft nor too hard +for comfort. These mattresses are made of various sorts of ticking, of +which linen or cotton stripe, and a kind called cranky tick are most +in use. For the poor, mattresses are often filled with mill-puff, or +flock, and for children, bran might be a good substitute. Mattresses +are made exactly to fit the bedstead, being cut out at the corners to +surround the post, if they intrude into the square of the bedstead. +They have sides sewed all round of one nail and a half or two nails +deep. + +In cutting out a mattress, the rule is to allow an extra inch to every +foot, to give room for the stuffing both in length and in width. + +These sides are usually cut the selvage-way of the ticking, and are +attached to the top and bottom by means of ferreting or webbing, which +is stitched with strongly waxed whitey brown thread, after which, the +mattress is filled with the stuffing, and then is tufted, as it is +usually called, which is done by passing a packing needle threaded with +strong thread entirely through the thickness of the mattress and again +passing it back at a little distance, and tying the two ends firmly +together. This is repeated at intervals of four nails or more apart, in +a straight row along it. A second line of tufting is now done, still +at four nails apart, letting the stitches fall opposite the middle of +the spaces in the last row, and so on. This secures the stuffing of +the mattress, and keeps it in place, little tufts of worsted are sewed +to these parts thus stitched, to hide the stitches and ornament the +mattress, sometimes mere circles of red leather are sewed on instead. + + The price of a straw mattress is from 10_s._ to 30_s._ + The price of a wool mattress is from 35_s._ to 60_s._ + The price of horse-hair, per lb., is from 1_s._ to 2_s._ + The price of mill-puff, per lb. 2_d._ + The price of linen tick, per yard, is from 9_d._ to 2_s._ 9_d._ + The price of cotton tick, per yard, is from 4½_d._ to 1_s._ 6_d._ + The price of wool, per lb., is from 6_d._ to 1_s._ 2_d._ + + +BEDS, BOLSTERS, AND PILLOWS. + +These are filled with chicken, turkey, goose feathers, and down, for +the higher classes, and mill-puff, which is a kind of cotton, for the +lower classes. The following prices are an average of the expense of +the various articles for making up beds. + + Mill-puff, 2½_d._ per lb., of which fifty pounds make a large bed. + Flock, at 3_d._ per lb. + Chicken feathers, at 10_d._ or 1_s._ + Grey goose, or turkeys’, at 2_s._ or 2_s._ 6_d._ + Best goose, white feathers, at 2_s._ 2_d._ to 3_s._ 6_d._ + Down from geese, for pillows, 6_s._ per lb. + Cotton ticking, for beds, at 6_d._ or 8_d._ + Linen ticking, for beds, at 1_s._ or 1_s._ 3_d._ + +Beds are made sometimes with sides, and sometimes without; in the +latter case, nine yards of ticking are sufficient, otherwise eleven +yards. Divide one yard and two nails into four, to make the long sides, +and another yard, divided into four, to make ends; the bed is two +yards and a quarter in length, two breadths above, and two below. The +ticking is waxed with white wax, or rubbed with brown soap, and when +the feathers are in, the sides are bound with the usual binding, or +what is still better, piped throughout. + +In making up mill-puff beds, care should be taken to separate dust, and +disentangle it well, before putting it into the ticking. + +For a bolster, two yards are required, and for each pillow, one yard. +These should be filled with the softest feathers, and the ticking well +stitched. + +Pillows are sometimes covered with calico covers, which tack or button +on underneath the usual pillow cases, mentioned in the article “House +Linen,” and make them look beautifully white and clean. + +Every double bed should have three or four pillows, and single ones, +either one or two. Bolsters sometimes have also covers to preserve the +ticking. Pillows are often stuffed with down, or torn pieces of paper +of a quarter of an inch square; this last is said to be particularly +soft and cool. + + +BLANKETS. + +Every bed should have one under blanket, and two or three upper ones. +These last are usually the Witney, whilst the under blanket is of an +inferior sort; they should be thick and light, with a soft nap or wool +upon them. Blankets are generally sold in pairs, or two woven together. +These, for beds must be cut, in which case, the edges are sewed over +in a very wide kind of button-hole stitch, with red, or other coloured +wool, also a kind of circle or star is often worked in the corner with +various coloured wool. + +For cribs, it is better not to divide the blankets but lay them on the +crib double, as they come in more usefully as under blankets for beds +afterwards, when uncut. The Witney blanket is considered the best. + +The Rose and the Bath are the other varieties. + +When not in use, blankets should be folded, and laid under those beds +in use, to keep them aired. Some persons lend blankets to the poor, +in which case, on their being returned, they should be scoured well +and baked in an oven, before they are put by in brown paper bags with +pepper sprinkled over them. + + +COVERLETS OR COUNTERPANES. + +There are various kinds of quilts or counterpanes. Those most known are, + + The Marseilles, which sell from 6_s._ to 25_s._ + The Imperial, which sell from 9_s._ to 30_s._ + The Summer, which sell from 25_s._ to 58_s._ + The Toilet cover, or cradle quilt 15_s._ to 42_s._ + +Those used for servants, are of a dark brown, violet, or grey colour. + +Those used by cottagers, are often of patchwork made by them at school, +or in their leisure moments. These quilts are sometimes made of a +succession of hexagons or six-sided pieces of print, at others, birds, +figures, and other devices are cut out and sewed up with various shaped +bits of calico, prints, &c. These quilts are durable when lined, and +may be good work for school children, though they certainly take up a +good deal of time in making. + +All counterpanes not in constant use, should be either put by in +drawers, or laid on the bed with the wrong side uppermost. + +Having now entered upon each article belonging to the bedstead, it only +remains for us to make the following observation. + +It is advisable to cut several small squares of linen, and having wet +them with the marking liquid, to mark upon them the list of every +article belonging to the bed to which the square of calico is to be +attached. These squares should be washed and ironed, and sewed upon +the mattress, bed, bolster, pillows, blankets, and coverlet of each +bedstead, thus:— + + BLUE ROOM. + + One straw mattress. + One hair ditto. + One feather bed. + Four pillows, one bolster. + One under and three upper blankets. + One counterpane. + Two watch-pockets. + +By this method, the bed furniture, if mixed, can easily be sorted and +counted by the mistress or housemaid. + + +WATCH POCKETS. + +These are often made of the same material as the bed-curtains, or of +white muslin, or dimity, or tick ornamented. A few shapes are mentioned +hereafter, in the chapter on cases, bags, &c. + + +CARPETS. + +Those generally known, are as follows:— + + Superb Axminster. + Saxony. + Royal velvet pile. + Tournay. + Brussels. + Turkey. + Imperial. + Kidderminster. + Venetian. + Danish Venetian. + Scotch. + Druggets. + Rugs, &c. + +All these carpets are expensive and durable, the Brussels is that +most in use for best apartments, and best stair-cases in the present +day, being very durable, and less expensive than most of the others +mentioned in the same list. Their price varies from 4_s._ 6_d._ to +10_s._ 6_d._ per yard. Turkey carpets were formerly in great request +for dining-rooms, and were sometimes used as table cloths in libraries, +which gave a remarkably rich and handsome, though heavy appearance. +The great objection to them is their great weight, which renders it +difficult to shake them. These Turkey carpets look well for years, and +are made in the piece, measuring sometimes ten or more yards long, and +five or more wide. The expense varies according to their size, from +£10. to £80. or more. + +Those carpets generally employed for common sitting-rooms, stair-cases, +servants’ apartments, &c. are the following:— + + Kidderminster. + Venetian. + Damask Venetian. + Scotch. + Druggets. + Baizes, &c. + +The Kidderminster and Damask Venetian are the most desirable of these +inferior carpets; the Scotch and common Venetian being used for +school-rooms and servants’ apartments. + +These vary much in price, from 2_s._ to 6_s._ per yard. + +Druggets are very wide, being sometimes two yards, and sometimes +four yards. They are chiefly employed to lay over another carpet, +to preserve it when the room is in daily use, and only removed for +company. Sometimes druggets alone are laid, and when of a handsome +brown or marone colour, look exceedingly well. They should be very +tightly stretched on the floor, so as not to present a wrinkle to view. + +Carpets are often made in worsted-work upon canvass, and are considered +durable, though the time occupied in making them is great. + +A worked border upon canvass, with the arms or crest, with drugget +sewed between, has a very pretty effect for a stair carpet, and might +be quickly done. Borders can be purchased in shops for the same purpose. + +There are various modes of making up rugs, but as this belongs more +properly to fancy work, it will not here be mentioned. + +Rugs may be knit in various ways also, as will be seen in the chapter +upon knitting. + +In making up carpets, observe the following directions, as they are +necessary for their appearance and durability. + +Brussels, when made up, should be turned with the wrong side outwards, +with the selvages just touching each other, but not laid one upon the +other. The carpet needle is then passed backwards and forwards, always +taking up both seams at a time, first pointing the needle from, and +next towards the chest. Observe, the alternate stitches are always +taken behind, or at the back of the last stitch, so as to work along +the seam from right to left in a kind of back-stitch fashion. The seam +will be close together and tread down flat. Observe, carefully to +cut out the carpet, and sew it up to match the pattern properly and +exactly, as the slightest mistake or pucker will ruin the appearance of +the whole carpet. There is a kind of thread, called carpet thread, sold +for the purpose, of every colour. + +Kidderminster and other carpets are sewed in the usual mode of sewing +seams together, taking care to secure the selvages very firmly +together, taking up every thread. + +Druggets. These are turned down once, and herring-boned at the edges, +and sewed up at the seams, as above. + +All carpets should be bound with the regular carpet binding at the +edges, or the carpet simply turned down with the binding laid on. This +last plan is the flattest, and answers for that end of the room where +the doors are situated, for them to open and shut more easily upon. + +Expensive carpets should be cut as little as possible, therefore, +when a piece is obliged to be cut for the hearth stone, it is better +to slit the piece only at the sides, and having caught the edges over +to prevent their ravelling, the piece or lip should then be turned +in underneath the carpet. By this means, if the carpet is wanted for +another room, the lip might be sewed up neatly and form the square +again. + +Carpet rods are very useful things, not only for stair-cases, but for +bed-rooms, or sitting-rooms, to fasten and stretch the carpets on the +floor with. In this case, the rod should be a little longer than the +breadth of the carpet, and a Holland or linen case sewed very firmly +underneath the carpet so as just to come to the edge of it, or even +strong tape loops would answer as well. Run the rod along them, and let +it pass at each end into two or more brass rings or hooks fastened to +the floor. + +Matting is used for halls, passages, and sometimes laid beneath the +carpets to preserve them. It should always be neatly bound with red, +green, or other coloured leather. + +Carpets should always be mended with a loose kind of untwisted worsted, +called thrums. + +[Illustration: PLATE 23. + +Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 4 Fig. 5 + +Fig. 6 Fig. 7 Fig. 8 + +Fig. 9 Fig. 10 Fig. 11 Fig. 12 + +Fig. 15 Fig. 16 Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Fig. 13 + +Fig. 19 Fig. 14 + +Fig. 21 Fig. 22 Fig. 23 Fig. 20 Fig. 24] + + +WINDOW CURTAINS. + + +PLATE 23. + +The drapery for window curtains, if for sitting-rooms, is generally +attached to one cornice, whether for two, three, or even four windows; +but for bed-rooms, the drapery is always separately hung. Observe for +bed-rooms, that the window curtains should always accord with the +hanging on the bed, both in colour and material, as also in shape. +Those hangings already drawn for bed furniture will be a sufficient +pattern by which to form the corresponding window curtains, therefore +but a few additional patterns for bed-rooms will be explained. + +It is desirable to have as little window drapery as possible to family +or secondary rooms, particularly nurseries and servants’ rooms, on +account of their liability to catch fire, especially as toilet tables +are so often situated within the window. In an upper story, curtains +might be dispensed with, using only the valance and corners. + +Windows have generally two brass pins or hooks on each side, over which +the curtains are hung or looped. + +Curtains should always be cut six or eight nails longer than the length +of the window, to allow for their touching the ground when looped upon +the pin. For a window of three panes, two breadths are sufficient in +each curtain, but for four or five panes, two and a half, or three +breadths, will be necessary for each. They should be often dusted, and +in hot summers, bed-room and even sitting-room curtains might be taken +down and put by till wanted for winter, as the sun fades and makes them +look shabby. + + +PLATE 23. FIG. 1. + +This is very handsome for a sitting-room, or even for a drawing-room, a +kind of straight valance is put behind a rod, to which a deep fringe is +sewed. The curtains with tassels sewed to them at the top, draw along +the rod with large rings. A lace may be laid down the curtains, at one +nail from the edge: this curtain in green and gold looks very handsome. + + +PLATE 23. FIG. 2. + +This style is more suited to a sitting-room or bed-room, being rather +too heavy for a drawing-room. + +The cornice is of mahogany or painted wood, to which a plain valance, +cut selvage-way, is fastened. This valance is either scolloped, +vandyked, or cut in any other form at the bottom, and a pattern in +cut velvet or lace is sewed on at the edge, and also at about a nail +above it. Two plain corners are cut, and with the curtains, are also +ornamented at one nail from the edge, with the same decoration as the +valance. + + +PLATE 23. FIG. 3. + +This is very neat for a bed-room, or for a common sitting-room, but +unless of very handsome materials, might be considered too plain for a +best room. To a mahogany cornice is fastened a straight valance, cut +down the selvage, and shaped according to the Plate, or otherwise, +according to taste. It must be bound with another coloured binding, and +handsome tassels sewed on at each point. + + +PLATE 23. FIG. 4. + +This is a very handsome drapery for any room, and is simply a festoon +thrown over a pole, as before explained, with double corners. Fringe +and lace add to the finish. + + +PLATE 23. FIG. 5. + +This is suitable for gothic windows, or for a study or library, it is +very simple, and may be formed to any shape, according to the style of +the room. + +The corners are in a piece with the valance, and are cut down the +selvage; a pattern of cut velvet may be laid on at the corners, to give +it relief. + + +PLATE 23. FIG. 6. + +This is a handsome drapery for a drawing or dining-room, and might be +adapted to any number of windows, by continuing the lower cornice, and +providing one or more upper rods, in addition to the one represented in +the Plate. The corners should reach more than half way down the window, +but the middle double piece should be much shorter. Lace and tassels +are required to finish the whole. + +The cornice may be black, with brass ends, or entirely brass. + + +PLATE 23. FIG. 7. + +Another very pretty festoon, and suitable for a drawing-room or +elsewhere. The middle part is a festoon, with a point attached to it, +and, on this account, would require two breadths instead of one and a +half, to form the depth required. + + +PLATE 23. FIG. 9. + +This is a beautiful drawing-room window festoon, and requires a more +ornamental brass cornice than usual. + +The festoons are all very simple, being cut out as before explained, +excepting that the corners are longer than ordinary, being looped upon +a high curtain pin, so that the ends must be sloped off from one-third, +instead of one half of the material. + +Sometimes with three windows, the two inner curtains of the outer +windows are simply muslin, and the middle window has two of muslin, as +well as of the material. + + +PLATE 23. FIG. 8. + +Passage or church windows are generally circular, unless pointed; +in the former case, they should be hung at the top with a piece of +straight material of the depth of half the diameter of the circle, +and sufficiently long to be a little fulled to the outer part of the +circle. The inner part is gathered to a point in the middle; the +curtains simply hang to the rod, ornamented by a little frill, valance, +fringe, or tassels, as taste may direct. + +There are many ways of drawing curtains together, but the one now +most adopted is that of bringing them forwards or backwards by means +of one string which at once draws both curtains; the following is an +explanation. + + +PLATE 23. FIG. 10. + +Let A B represent the two rods under the cornice, and behind, or +concealed by the valance. After putting the rings of each curtain upon +its own rod, tie the cord to the ring, No. 1, and pass across through +the rings marked No. 2, over the side pulley of the window, down the +side, C, round the pulley, D, up the side again, and under the top +pulley, and then take it across above the rings, till it comes to +the first ring, No. 1, when it is also passed through it and all the +others towards E, it is next taken round the pulley, H, and outside +the rings, and fastened to the ring, No. 2, in a hard knot. + + +PLATE 23. FIG. 11. + +This is an old fashioned simple curtain still in use in churches, small +houses, and for housekeepers’ rooms. The curtain is in as many breadths +as is required for the width of the window, and of the proper length. +The top is nailed to the cornice, and small loops or rings are put down +the seams of the breadths, at equal distances (say about four nails +from each other). Through these rings are passed cords which unite in +one long cord, and on pulling this cord, the whole curtain draws up, +forming as many festoons as there are breadths, or rather lengths of +rings down it. This cord must be wound round and round two pins or +hooks placed at the side of the window, at about six nails apart. + +Other curtains are passed backwards and forwards like bed-curtains, or +have a cord on each side, to draw them separately; in which case, it is +passed through all the rings, being fastened to the last or innermost +ring. + + +MUSLIN CURTAINS. + +These are put within the outer curtains in drawing-rooms, dining-rooms, +and sometimes even for bed-rooms. They serve as a great shade to the +best curtains, both from dust and sun, and have besides a neat, clean, +and rather dress appearance. Many persons take down their chintz +curtains when they put up muslin ones. + +Muslin curtains are generally made of book-muslin, though sometimes +mull or jaconet have been employed. They are made with deep hems and +rings at the top, and so arranged as to fall towards the inside of the +window. Curtains are sometimes knit or net of cotton, they look very +neat and pretty, and are besides very durable. + + +LITTLE HALF CURTAINS. + +PLATE 23. + +These are much in use for the lower windows of town houses, to prevent +persons from looking into the rooms, and are generally made to reach +half way up to the second pane, or merely to the first. They are made +of muslin, or a kind of canvass, and sometimes, though very rarely of +chintz. + + +FULL CURTAIN. + +PLATE 23. FIG. 12. + +This is simply cut in as many breadths as wanted to full it to the +window, a frill is made near the top by turning down a nail or more, +and making a runner, into which the tape is run, to draw it up to the +size required, this tape is looped at each end and fastened on to two +hooks at the sides. + + +ROD CURTAIN. + +PLATE 23. FIG. 13. + +This is a favourite and very neat pattern, and is made by sewing six or +more breadths together according to the size of the window, of eight or +ten nails deep. They are hemmed at the top and bottom, and two gilt or +wooden rods are passed through the hems, fulling the curtain well upon +them, after which, the rods exactly fit into the window frames. + + +PLATE 23. FIG. 14. + +By way of variety these rods are sometimes put in at the sides, instead +of top and bottom. + + +PLATE 23. + +Sometimes these curtains are fixed in a frame, exactly to fit the width +of the window, in which case they are often starred like a bed foot +board, and look exceedingly neat and pretty. + + +WINDOW BLINDS. + +PLATE 23. FIG. 15. + +These are generally made of linen or long lawn, and sometimes of +Holland, calico, painted print, green canvass or gauze, or calimanco. +If possible, procure the material of the exact breadth of the window, +allowing for a good turning in, to herring-bone down, as blinds wear +and set far better without seams, and with the side herring-boned. + +They should have tape loops or a case for the rod to slip in, and not +be nailed on, as the blind is so apt to wear and tear when taken off +for washing. Sometimes a small ring is fastened to the blind at the +bottom on each side, through which a cord runs, and is nailed tightly +top and bottom of the window, this contrivance always makes the blind +draw up straightly. A hem is made at the bottom, to admit of the stick, +and a cord and tassel generally fastened to the middle, by which it may +be drawn down. A cord moving round a pulley at the top, and a window +crank at the bottom, enable it to be drawn up and down at pleasure. + + +CHAIR, SOFA, AND OTHER COVERS. + +When chairs and sofas are fitted up with damask, merino, stuff, horse +hair, or other material that does not wash, they are generally covered +with Holland, chintz, or glazed calico, which protects them from dust +and dirt, and are easily removed, when required for company. Holland +covers are the most durable, but look cold; chintz, unless very strong, +should be lined with thin glazed calico. The cover should be made +exactly to fit the chair or sofa, with or without piping at the edge, +and with loops sewed on three of the sides underneath, and a pair +of strings on the fourth side; the cover is firmly fastened down by +passing one of the strings through the three loops, and making it tie. +Ottomans generally have the covers to fit along beneath the edging of +wood, in which case, they must be pinned to the stuffing with very +strong pins, which from their length are called sofa pins. + + +ARM CHAIRS. + +PLATE 23. FIG. 16. + +It is a good plan to make a kind of case of Holland to fit half way +down the cushion, A B C D, which protects the cover from being soiled +by the head, on leaning back. Each arm chair should have two or three +of these cases for wash and wear. + + +SOFAS. + +These, besides being covered, should have a length of Holland of one +breadth, and about one yard, or more long, for the feet of any person +lying down to be placed upon. + +Where there is an invalid in the house, constantly resting upon the +sofa, it is very desirable to make a little flat pillow, put into a +muslin cover, frilled all round, to lay the head upon, thus keeping the +cushions perfectly clean and neat. + + +DIVAN. + +PLATE 23. FIG. 17. + +This is a kind of long sofa, without either back or sides, and may be +made to open, which forms a very convenient box for large engravings, +drawings, &c., &c. The cover should be all in one piece behind, but in +front, and at the sides, the top should be unconnected with the lower +part, to admit of its opening, so that in fact, the cover must look +as much like a box that opens as possible; loops sewed to the edge +might fix it into some hooks inside. These divans are very useful for +bed-rooms, and would hold bonnets or furs, or mourning, or any thing +else, and at the same time, act as a sofa also. + + +FOOTSTOOLS AND HASSOCKS. + +PLATE 23. FIG. 18. + +These are made in various ways, and may be got up very cheaply at +home. The most simple and one of the prettiest for a bed-room or even +a sitting-room is a cloth or velvet hassock braided over, or otherwise +ornamented. It is cut circular both top and bottom, a straight side is +sewed in between, and ears or handles fastened on, by which they may be +carried. These are very soft for young children to sit upon. + + +ANOTHER KIND. + +This is made of two or four bricks tied firmly together, wrapped round +with strong sacking, and then neatly covered with cloth, and if not in +good shape a little extra stuffing may be added. These footstools are +very useful for nurseries, school-rooms, or for servants at work. + + +CHURCH BASSES. + +PLATE 23. FIG. 20. + +Flat circular ones are often in use. Sometimes straw ones are covered +with green or crimson cloth, and look very neat. Basses may be filled +with mill-puff, straw, chaff, bran, or bits of cloth, &c. Some persons +prefer a simple cushion or flat pillow to kneel upon, in which case, +they may be filled with feathers. + + +CHURCH SEATS. + +PLATE 23. FIG. 24. + +Church pews are generally lined with cloth, and fastened by brass nails +and binding laid on. The cushions, Plate 23, Fig. 24, are oblong, and +made like a very soft mattress. + +They have pieces of cloth, bound round and sewed to them in front, to +give an air of comfort and neatness to the seat. + +The ground or floor is generally covered with a drugget of the same +colour as the lining of the seat. + + +TABLE COVERS. + +These may be made variously at home, or else cloth or linen covers may +be procured at the mercers’ shops. Those made at home are generally of +cloth or silk, and sometimes, though very rarely, of satin or velvet. +Cloth ones are generally bound with binding, and a lace laid on at a +nail from the edging. Velvet, cut in leaves or patterns, is sometimes +laid on; different kinds of coloured cloth, cut in the shape of oak +leaves, or according to taste, sewed on round the edge look very +pretty. Patchwork of silks on a black ground also looks handsome. + + +SCREENS. + +PLATE 23. FIG. 21. + +These may be made by merely hemming a piece of rich silk at the top, +through which a rod is passed, which is secured to the pole of the +screen. The bottom of this silk is hemmed neatly and has a deep fringe +set on. The silk should be a good deal fulled, when on the rod, to look +handsome. + +Others are made by plaiting or fluting rich silk in straight lines, +Fig. 22, or to radiate from the centre, which is confined within a +frame of rosewood or mahogany. + +Large folding screens are made for putting near to doors, to prevent +draughts of air, and are useful to place near a warm bath, especially +for infants or delicate persons, so as to enable them to dress free +from cold air: small screens of two folds are very convenient to place +by every washing stand, when two persons occupy the same room. The +frames, after being made by a carpenter, should be finished up at home. +They are usually covered with canvass, Holland, calimanco, chintz, +twill, or other material. Black Holland looks very neat. These screens +make very good scrap books for children, by being pasted over with +riddles, prints, caricatures, &c., &c. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +ON COVERS, CASES, &c., &c. + + +NIGHT-GOWN BAG. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 1. + +This is made of Holland, calico, or thick cambric, or glazed muslin, +and sometimes trimmed all round with a frill, or piped with coloured +calico. It is intended to contain the night-gown, cap, also the +dressing-gown, and perhaps a change of linen, and the tidy or +dressing-case, and may be made to any size, according to the number of +things it is intended to contain. + +Its chief use is in travelling, especially in a large family, when the +separate case, containing each individual’s night things are easily +found together, and as easily put up in a large carpet bag. Each bag +should bear either the name or the initials of the person to whom it +belongs. + + +A TRAVELLING DRESSING-CASE OR TIDY. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 3. + +These are most useful things, and no one who has once used them will +travel without them, unless they can conveniently carry a dressing-case +with them. + +They are made of Russia duck, ticking, or stamped cloth, or any other +firm material. + +In making up, the greatest exactness is required to make the parts +fit truly. The back, which is all in one piece, is lined with strong +calico, and the various pockets are then laid on, the bottom of one +being sewed a little below where the top of the next will come, so +that the whole has a neat appearance: the sizes of the pockets, given +in the Plate, allow for this wrapping over. The top of each pocket is +bound with purple or other coloured galloon, and the divisions for the +smaller ones are formed by stitching a piece of narrow galloon neatly +down upon them. The whole is then bound round with galloon, and strings +of the same colour fastened to the pointed end, so as to tie round the +dressing-case when it is full. As purple galloon will wash well, it is +best for this purpose, as most other colours fade. On each pocket is +written with marking ink, the name of the article to be contained in +it; these of course differ according to the fancy of the owner, but +the most usual are curl papers in the triangular pocket at the top, H +for hair-pins, W for thread, tapes, buttons, &c., S for soap, P for +tooth-powder, T for tooth-brush, which ought also to be enclosed in an +oil silk bag; C for comb, and B for hair brush. + +[Illustration: PLATE 24. + +Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 4 + +Fig. 5 Fig. 6 Fig. 7 Fig. 8 Fig. 9 Fig. 10 + +Fig. 11 Fig. 12 Fig. 13 + +Fig. 14 Fig. 15 Fig. 16 Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Fig. 19 Fig. 20 + +Fig. 21 Fig. 22 Fig. 23 Fig. 24 Fig. 25 Fig. 26 + +Fig. 34 Fig. 27 Fig. 28 + +Fig. 36 Fig. 35 Fig. 29 Fig. 30 Fig. 31 + +Fig. 37 Fig. 38 Fig. 39 Fig. 40 Fig. 32 Fig. 33 + +Fig. 42 Fig. 43 Fig. 41 + +Fig. 44 Fig. 45 Fig. 46 Fig. 49 Fig. 50 + +Fig. 53 Fig. 47 Fig. 48 Fig. 51 Fig. 52] + + +GLOVE CASE. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 4. + +Gloves easily become soiled, if not covered carefully, and as white +gloves, coloured, and black should be kept in separate cases, it is +better to make bags for the express purpose of keeping them nicely. It +is also advantageous to buy several pairs at once, as they are cheaper +when sold by the dozen or half dozen. + +For ladies’ gloves, take a strip of the material, about four nails +wide, and five nails and a quarter long, and pipe or bind it all round +with coloured glazed calico, or ribbon; cut another strip, one nail +and three-quarters wide, and nine nails long, this is also piped and +bound; the ends may be finished according to fancy, either left square, +rounded off, or turned down to form a triangle. Crease both strips in +half their length, and lay the middle of the first strip crosswise upon +the middle of the other, so that the longest piece lies underneath, +after pinning them very evenly together, stitch them firmly with small +stitches in the piping, so as not to be seen. Strings, or a button and +button-hole are fixed to the ends of the longest strip. + +White gloves may be put between the two strips and the coloured ones +above, when they are laid in, fold the side of the smallest piece over +first, then the long one, and button it together. + +On the outside mark the name, and the colour of the gloves. + +Gentlemen’s glove cases vary only in being larger. + + +POCKET HANDKERCHIEF CASE, COMMONLY CALLED PORTE MOUCHOIR. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 5. + +This is usually made of silk, and is lined with muslin or sarsenet, +having perfume between the silk and the lining, and when put in ladies +drawers, with the handkerchiefs laid in, gives them an agreeable scent. +It consists either of one or two pockets, generally the latter, so that +in folding up, the case is merely doubled over. + +The case is about four nails wide, and if intended for double pockets, +nine nails and a half long, each pocket being full four nails, and +allowing half a nail for turnings in, and a nail space between them, +cut out the lining, and two pieces of fine muslin the same size, and +lay them as follows:— + +First the silk, next one piece of muslin, then sprinkle the scent +freely all over it, after which place the other piece of muslin, and +then the lining, pin them evenly, and run them round at the edges. +Quilt it or not, according to pleasure. + +The quilting keeps the scent in place; the ends are turned up the two +nails on each side, and the whole is bound with ribbon. Sometimes +the initials of the owner are marked on the outside. For a suitable +perfume, see Receipt, No. 14. + + +SHOE OR BRUSH AND COMB BAG. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 6. + +These are very convenient in travelling, as they save much paper, and +take up little room, they are made of different materials, according +to the shoe to be put in. If for walking shoes, a coarse brown canvass +called earn, is the most suitable. For house shoes, calico or Holland, +and for satin slippers, old silk. The bags are made to draw up at one +end in the usual way, and should be just wide enough to contain the +shoes, but as they are useful to put in one’s muff, or to carry in the +hand when going out to dine or spend the day, it is as well to leave +sufficient space at the top for a pair of stockings above the shoe. The +name of the owner, and the quality of the shoe, should be put outside. + + +ANOTHER SHOE BAG. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 15. + +This is a better shape for large shoes or ladies’ boots, as they +lie flatter when packed in separate pockets. The bag is therefore +back-stitched up the middle, and a button put on for the upper flap to +button upon. + + +A MAT. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 7. + +These are very useful to put on handsome tables, or to use as kettle +holders. They are made with wool, which forms a fringe similar to that +on a rug. Procure a piece of coarse flannel, the size wanted for the +mat, which must be hemmed or herring-boned down to make it firm at +the edges. Choose a mesh of the width required for the depth of the +fringe, and then after fastening the wool at one of the outer corners, +commence working by carrying the wool round the mesh and fastening the +loop thus made by a cross-stitch to the flannel. Observe always to work +along the thread, to keep it straight, and make the fringe lie very +much thicker at the corners. Continue working, never fastening off, +letting the second square be about four or five threads from the outer +one, and connected at the corners to the outer square by fringe added +diagonally. This makes the comers full and handsome. When the fringe is +all sewed on, fasten off, and then proceed to cut the fringe neatly all +round, and with the scissors spread it out, or comb it, to make it look +rich and full. Afterwards procure some stiff muslin or buckram and tack +it behind, and then sew on neatly the silk or glazed calico lining, and +the mat is complete. + + +BOOT BAGS. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 8. + +These are very useful for gentlemen whose boots take much room when +wrapped in paper, which they often burst, and soil the clean linen; a +boot when packed is generally rolled up from the top about half the +leg, the bag should be made to fit it when thus rolled, and is on an +average, about the following size:— + + The width at the top of the case, about three nails. + The width at the bottom, about five nails. + The length of the case when doubled, about four nails in + front, sloped down at the top to three nails and a quarter. + + +NURSERY BAG. + +This is used by nurses while travelling, and is very convenient for +the purpose of carrying infants’ soiled linen. The bag should be of +dark coloured silk, or washing material, made in two divisions, and +lined throughout with oiled silk, or Indian rubber cloth, so as to be +waterproof. They should be six nails wide, and five or six nails deep. +The oil-silk bag should be made to draw out of the silk or outer bag. +The one pocket or division holds the soiled linen, and the other pocket +contains a damp sponge. + + +BOOK COVER. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 5. + +Bibles or other valuable books are often covered with cloth, leather, +wash leather, Holland, &c., and for books in every day use it is far +better than wrapping them in paper. Purple or claret coloured cloth +looks very handsome, and when bound with ribbon, ribbon strings, and +the initials marked outside, it looks finished and particularly neat. +The case is merely a long piece of cloth of the width of the book, and +of such a length as to lie outside, and turn in a piece to cover the +inside of each flap with the book shut about two-thirds of the way. +The book, when shut, takes more than when open, therefore it should be +measured when shut. + + +ANOTHER BOOK CASE. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 9. + +This is a simple cover made usually of leather or Holland. One piece is +sufficient to go before and behind the book, allowing an extra piece +for a flap to turn over. Two strips for side-pieces complete the case. +If of leather, the pieces are back-stitched neatly together; but if of +Holland, &c., the sides are bound up with ribbon. + + +ANOTHER BOOK CASE. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 10, 11. + +This is made with a regular lid, as in the drawing, and buttons over. + +Fig. 11 has fly pieces or bits, to lay over the book, but beneath the +outer flap or lid. + + +A TRUNK CASE. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 12. + +This is made of coarse sacking or earn, and is most useful for covering +large trunks, and is composed simply of two lengths of the stuff, laid +one across the other, and stitched firmly together, exactly where they +fall upon each other, forming an oblong or square of back-stitching, as +in the Plate, of the size of the bottom of the trunk. Four holes should +be made in one of the sides, on which the direction card may be more +easily fastened (see A). + +The ends are turned down with a broad hem, and button-holes made on the +hems of the two ends, B and C, and at two or more nails from the hem at +the opposite sides. In packing up the trunk, it is simply laid upon the +back-stitched square of the sacking, and the sides being turned up, two +at a time, they are laced up with cord, without the trouble of getting +a packing needle and sewing it up every time. + + +A KNIFE OR FORK CASE. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 13. + +This is usually made of green baize, and is used for wrapping up knives +and forks (both steel and dessert or silver), when not in daily use. +The knives are put in one case and the forks in another. These cases +are made out of half or a whole breadth of the baize, according to the +width. After cutting sufficient length to hold six or twelve knives, +allowing at one end enough to tie over, cut it at the top straight from +A to B, which is to turn over as a side flap, and shape the rest from +B to C, in a semi-circular form. Cut another long strip of baize, half +the width of from B to C, lay it along and stitch it down at proper +equal distances, and when done, bind it along the outer edge, and all +round the case. The knives are then put in, with the blades between the +pieces of baize. The flap turns over the handles, the whole rolls up, +and is finally tied round with strings, sewed at the circular end. + + +A SACHET OR CARD CASE. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 14. + +This is very similar in shape to the porte mouchoir, excepting that +four little gores or hinges are put in at the sides of the pockets, +to enable it to open wider and contain more cards (see A). This hinge +should be creased in two, after being sewed in, and when once creased +_well_, will always set properly. They are made of morocco paper, silk, +rich satin, or velvet. A piece of flannel or demet may be put between +the outside and the lining. They are sometimes embroidered or braided +round the edge, with the initials or crest put in the middle. A cord or +twist is sometimes put round the edge, to give a finish. + + +A CANDLESTICK CASE. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 16. + +Covers for bed-room candlesticks, teapots, cream jugs, sugar basins, +dish covers, salvers, and indeed all plated or silver articles may +either be made to the shape or circular. The advantage of the latter +plan is, that by hemming it round and putting in a string, it will +draw up and suit any shaped article, whereas cases made to fit one +particular article will do for no other. + + +A NOSEGAY CASE. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 17. + +Flowers, especially geraniums, are apt sadly to injure the dress and +waistband when worn; it is therefore very useful to put flower stalks +in a kind of case, similar to a scissors sheath, which protects the +dress completely. It should be cut out of card-board, in the shape of a +wide scissors sheath, and covered all over with silk. + + +A WOOL CASE. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 18. + +This is made of thin muslin or of Holland, and is most useful for +holding and preserving wools. It is made something like a housewife, +having runners for the wool, side by side. The wools should be put in +in shades and numbered; each colour might have six or seven shades +allowed, so that it would require a long piece to admit three or four +colours, with their various shades. The flaps at both ends turn over, +the whole rolls up when not in use, and ties round. + + +ANOTHER WOOL CASE. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 34, 35. + +This is made to resemble thread papers, and is usually formed of +muslin. It is plaited along, or doubled, like Fig. 35, and all the +doubles sewed along together, thus forming a bunch of runners, for the +wool to be drawn through. + + +A HOUSEWIFE. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 19, 20, 21. + +This is made of leather, stamped paper, silk, ribbon, satin, velvet, +white dimity, Holland, or any other material, even common print. + +Two pieces, the size of A B C D, are first of all cut out and +back-stitched along, to form the thread runners, after which, another +piece, E F G H, is cut out, and the places for the scissors, bodkin, +&c. made, and then a long strip is cut, not only sufficient for the +whole length, but to turn over at the end to form a pocket. The other +pieces are neatly bound to it, and the flannel or kerseymere for +needles is added. The initials may be put at the sloped end. The case +may wrap up like Fig. 19 or 20. + + +A YARD MEASURE. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 21, 22. + +This is very convenient, from the small compass in which it goes, when +folded up. It is similar to a carpenter’s rule in shape, and is marked +with nails on one side and inches on the other. + + +PINCUSHIONS. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 23, 24, 25, 26, 27. + +Pincushions may be made of every variety of shape and material, and +stuffed with bran, wool, hair, flannel, chaff, &c., &c. + +Fig. 23 makes a very nice toilet pincushion, and is circular at the +top, with a deep length sewed all round, which is hemmed at the bottom; +it draws neatly beneath the cushion, and ties firmly on it. + +Fig. 24 is very neat for a toilet pincushion, and is made to button and +unbutton from beneath. + +Fig. 25. Another very neat toilet pincushion, made with a fringe or +frill round it. + +Sometimes the cushion is of glazed calico or coloured silk, and the +cover of muslin, with a handsome worked edging all round. These are +very handsome for spare rooms, but too good for daily use. The colour +of the cushion ought to correspond with the paper or drapery of the +room. + +Fig. 26 is a flat pocket pincushion, and may be circular, square, +diamond, oblong, or any other shape. + +Cut out the form in two cards, both of which are covered with silk. +Flannel is put between, and the two sides neatly sewed together. + +Fig. 27 is a drawing-room pincushion, usually made of silk or satin, +and is tufted like a mattress with bows or tufts of silk. Bows are +attached to all the corners. + + +BAGS. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33. + +Bags are made of silk, satin, velvet, and many other materials, and are +almost always lined; in which case, they are done in a similar manner +to sleeves. + +There is a great variety of shapes, and they are trimmed with fringe, +lace, ribbon, silk cord, &c., &c. + +The Figures represent the shapes most in use at present, and need +little description. + +Fig. 32 is a double bag, being two pockets or bags, which, being sewed +together up the sides and along the bottom, form a third pocket between +them, which may either be left open, or have a regular silk bag sewed +above. + +In one pocket may be kept pencil, knife, Indian rubber, and other +writing materials; in the other, money, bills, memoranda, &c.; and in +the middle part, scissors, thimble, cotton, and other materials for +work. + + +NEEDLE CASE. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 36. + +This is made of a strip of kerseymere, one nail and a quarter wide, +which is marked out in the required number of divisions, to separate +the different sized needles from each other. Each space between the +divisions should be half or three-quarters of a nail, so that the +length of the strip must depend upon the number and size of these +divisions. After fixing upon the length and width, cutting off the +strip, and marking in pencil the lines for the divisions, work over +the lines in chain-stitch in silk, or lay on braid, marking at the top +of each space, the number of the needles to be put in; then bind the +kerseymere down with some broad ribbon, which serves likewise for the +back of the case. This ribbon should be stiff and rich, and when turned +over the edges of the kerseymere, should be back-stitched down very +neatly. The end of the strip is usually rounded, as in the Plate, and +the initials worked on. Ribbons, or a button and loop are attached to +the end, to fasten it up by. + + +WORK BASKET. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 37. + +These are very pretty, light, and useful. Purchase a suitable size, of +the shape of the pattern, about twelve inches long, eight wide, and +three and a half deep, or smaller, are the usual sizes. As they look +neater and keep better when painted, it is advisable to send them to +the coach-maker’s to be coloured the shade desired (the darker, the +more handsome); when quite dry, procure a good silk of a suitable +colour, and also satin ribbon to match, of two-thirds of a nail wide, +and line the basket, putting first muslin, and then a layer of fine +flannel, and afterwards silk. It should be made exactly to fit, and +be quilted in some pretty pattern all over, after which, the satin +ribbon, neatly quilled, is sewed round at the top. Sometimes ladies put +little pockets or bags all round, to contain a knife, scissors, money, +pincushion, &c. + + +TRAVELLING BAG. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 38. + +A travelling bag is very useful for ladies, when taking long journeys, +especially when they are fond of working or sketching while in the +carriage. + +The Fig. represents both sides of the bag complete, excepting that it +requires the sides to be sewed up. It is thus laid open, or unsewed, in +order to explain the plan more clearly. + +The bag should be made of rich strong silk, and on one side pockets are +made to contain as follows:— + + A. Needle-book or housewife. + B. Scissors. + C. Work and cotton. + D. Pocket for money. + E. Ditto for watch, or gold, &c. + + On the other side, the pockets are as follows:— + + F. For a note book, or journal. + G. For two pencils. + H. Sketch book. + I. Rules. + J. Knife. + +A piece of Indian rubber is fastened to a bit of galloon and confined +to one end of the bag. The pockets should be put in rather lower from +the top than is represented in the Plate, else the bag will not close +neatly, when the strings are drawn. + + +SCHOOL GIRL’S BADGE. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 39. + +This band is made of webbing, black tape, calimanco, or any other firm +material. + +To the middle of the band is attached a square piece of pasteboard, or +tin covered with flannel and calimanco, on which the girl’s number is +marked. + +On this band are put several strings of galloon or tape, to which +are tied scissors, keys, pincushion, &c. A simple band of Holland, +or tape would be very useful for servants, especially housekeepers, +lady’s maids, and house-maids, to attach the keys belonging to their +department, also scissors, cushion, pencil, &c. These bands might have +button-holes, or large oylet-holes worked in them, to receive the +ribbons to which the things are attached, and they should be made to +button neatly behind. + +Shoulder-straps might be added of the same material. + + +CARRIAGE CASE, OR PORTE FOLIO. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 40. + +This is very useful for those ladies who drive about constantly in a +town, and who have much shopping, or many calls, &c. to make. + +The left hand side of the case marked A, is a porte folio to carry +paper, bills, &c. with a long pencil at the side, which, when the +book or case is shut, secures the two sides together, by being passed +through the loops. + +The other side is made with two pockets above, at B, for visiting +cards, one pocket below C, for a rule, and crossed narrow ribbons +between, to hold bills, &c. in. This case may be made of leather, +cloth, or stamped paper, and should be laid on millboard, or pieces of +tin to form the sides. + + +TRAVELLING PORTE FOLIO. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 41. + +This is convenient for travelling, when there is not sufficient room +for a desk; it is made of card or book board, and covered with black +silk or paper. Under the part marked A, is a porte folio for paper, the +two parts being connected together by means of a wide ribbon all round. +The four flaps lay over and tie across with ribbon. On the part, A, are +places for sealing wax, pencil, pens, knife and paper knife, all in +one, and at the corner a piece of ribbon sewed on in a circle, and made +to draw up like a bag, to contain wafers. + + +SEAMAN’S OR TRAVELLER’S CASE. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 42, 43. + +This sort of case is very useful for men in all classes when +travelling, and for school boys, and is usually made of Russia duck, +or of leather; it is one yard long, and about one nail and a half or +two nails wide. The pockets and thread-case must all be prepared before +sewing them to the back. A is divided, according to the Plate, for the +thread case as in a housewife, it is about four nails long, and has +two flaps, C and B, at the ends, to keep the thread neat. The flap, +C, is finished inside, as seen in Fig. 43, with boot hooks, &c., &c. +The thread should be strong white, strong black, whitey brown, carpet +thread, pack thread, and other kinds, also white and black silk. + +D is a square pincushion with divisions for scissors, tweezers, +stiletto, &c. Inside this pocket should slip a needle-book and sticking +plaister case, both in one; the flaps of E F G H, all hook and eye down +to their respective pockets, which contain fish-hooks, buttons, hooks +and eyes, &c., &c. + + +GENTLEMAN’S TRAVELLING DRESSING-CASE. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 44. + +This is made of leather of any length, according to the number of +things put in. It should be the width of the longest of the articles +to be put in (say the razors). A row of divisions of the proper sizes +are made by a strap of leather carried all along the case in which the +razor strop, boot hooks, razors, scissors, knife, tweezers, pencil, +tooth brush case, shaving brush, and soap case are put. The flaps fold +over, and the whole wraps up and ties round. The articles should be +bought before the case is made, as the divisions can then be formed +exactly to fit. + + +WATCH POCKET. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 45. + +These may be made of silk or cambric muslin. The one here represented +is composed of one large and two small pockets, the latter are to +hold the watch and smelling bottle, and the large pocket is for the +handkerchief. The large pocket is supported by three runners of +whalebone or ribbon wire. These should be put in so as easily to draw +out, if the watch pocket is of a washing material. Whalebone is also +put at the top of each of the three pockets. + +The whole should be frilled round or ornamented with narrow lace or +fringe. The size must greatly depend upon the size of the bed, but five +nails long by four deep is a good average size for a large bedstead. + + +ANOTHER WATCH POCKET. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 46. + +This is the usual shape, and intended merely to contain the watch. +They may be made of silk, dimity, ribbon, or any other material. Some +are composed of bed-ticking, which is worked in the light stripe with +coloured silk in chain-stitch, herring-boning, or any other fancy +stitch. They are ornamented round with fringe, lace, or frilling. + + +AN INVALID’S CHAIR. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 47. + +This is very convenient for carrying invalids about when they have lost +the use of their legs, especially for conveying them down steps, to the +carriage, &c. + +The two outer pieces of wood should be of beech or some other strong +kind, to which handles may be attached. These pieces of wood are +connected together by four or more pieces of very strong double +webbing, between which three strips of strong wood are firmly secured. +When used, a simple cushion is put upon this webbing, and two servants, +one on each side, can carry it with ease and safety. When not in use, +it can be rolled up in a very little compass. + +It is particularly useful for invalids while travelling. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +RECEIPTS. + + +The following receipts have all been tried either by the Authoress +herself, or by her immediate friends, and are thoroughly to be depended +upon. + +A few have been introduced not immediately connected with the +work-book, but from their value, no apology is necessary for their +insertion. + + +No. 1. + +PERMANENT INK FOR MARKING LINEN. + + 1 ounce, 5 drachms, 1 scruple of lunar caustic nitrate of silver, + 2 ounces of gum arabic, powdered, + 1 pint of distilled water, + ½ an ounce of sap green. + + For the liquid pounce with which the linen is wetted, previously to the + application of the ink, mix + + 4 ounces of carbonate of soda, + 2 ounces of powdered gum arabic, + 1 pint of distilled water, + +and a little cochineal, to colour it. + +In marking linen, after applying the liquid pounce with a common small +bristle brush, to the part which is to receive the mark, and wetting +it very well, let it dry by the fire, and then after rubbing it with a +glass calender or glazing stone, to make it smooth, mark it with a fine +hard steel pen. It should then be exposed to the air, which makes the +letters turn quite black. The place should be washed soon after it is +dry, as the liquid pounce injures the linen, if left on it long. + + +No. 2. + +PERMANENT RED MARKING INK. + +Take half an ounce of vermillion, and a drachm of salt of steel, let +them be finely levigated with linseed oil to the thickness required. +The mixture must be well shaken before used. + +Inks of various colours may be made, by using sap green, Prussian blue, +gamboge, &c. instead of vermillion. + + +No. 3. + +TO REMOVE MARKING INK FROM LINEN. + +When linen is erroneously marked or spotted with marking ink, an +application of chloride of lime with either cold or hot water, will +efface it. It should be applied over and over again till the marks are +obliterated; but as the chloride of lime spoils linen, it is advisable +to wash the part well, immediately after each application, so as to +prevent its eating away the linen. + +Chloride of lime being poisonous, the mixture should be carefully +thrown away after being used. + + +No. 4. + +TO REMOVE COMMON INK FROM CLOTHES, &c. + +Rub the place immediately with lemon juice, and hot soap and water, and +if this does not succeed, have recourse to salts of lemon, which seldom +fails. + + +No. 5. + +SALTS OF LEMON. + +They are used to remove ink and iron-moulds from linen, calico, all +articles of dress and furniture, and even from wood, books, &c. + +It is made as follows:— + + A quarter of a pound of salts of sorrel, + A quarter of a pound of cream of tartar, + + Well mixed and rubbed together in a mortar, and it is then + ready for use. + +It should be kept locked up, the salts of sorrel being a strong poison. + +In using salts of lemon to an inked carpet or table, merely rub it on +with the top of the finger, having previously dipped it in hot water. + +If it is a piece of linen, or an article of dress that has been inked, +it is best to stretch it over a pewter or other vessel full of hot +water, and when wetted through with the steam, apply a small quantity +of the salts on the ink or iron-mould, rubbing it well at the same +time with the finger, and a spot will, on repeating the application, +disappear. + + +No. 6. + +TO TAKE OUT INK, WHEN SALTS OF LEMON ARE NOT AT HAND. + +Dip the spotted part into some melted tallow from a mould candle. Send +it to the wash thus greased, and it will return clean and white. + +Of course this is only applicable to articles that will wash. + + +No. 7. + +TO REMOVE INK FROM CLOTH OR CARPETS. + +Take up the ink instantly with a spoon, and pour on water in abundance, +while still applying the spoon constantly, till it is removed; rub +afterwards a bit of lemon upon the place, which will brighten any +colour that may be deadened. + + +No. 8. + +BLEACHING LIQUID + +Is used to remove iron-moulds, or restore discoloured linen, and calico +to its former whiteness. + +Pour it into a basin, one part of the liquid to six parts of water; the +cloth is dipped into it, allowed to lie in it, and well rubbed, till +the mark is effaced, when the part is washed in clear water. + +The bleaching liquid is made as follows:— + +A solution of chloride of carbonate of soda; this cannot be procured in +powder, but a preparation of lime in powder can be had, which will do +equally well. Unless much diluted, this is apt to injure the texture of +the linen. + +Another receipt for making it is the following:— + +Chloride of lime, the powder to be put into water, a part of it will +dissolve, and a part will not; decant the clear fluid, and keep it in a +dark place. The powder is apt to attract moisture from the air, and to +lose its chlorine by exposure, it must be kept in a bottle with a glass +stopper, as it corrodes corks. + + +No. 9. + +TO REMOVE STAINS MADE BY ACIDS. + +Wet the part, and lay on it some salt of wormwood; rub it, without +diluting it with more water. + + +No. 10. + +ANOTHER RECEIPT. + +Let the cloth imbibe a little water without putting it in, and hold the +part over a lighted match at a proper distance, to avoid its catching +fire. The spots will be removed by the sulphureous gas. + + +No. 11. + +ANOTHER RECEIPT. + +Tie up in the stained part, some pearl ash, then scrape some soap into +cold soft water, to make a lather, and boil the linen till the stains +disappear. + + +No. 12. + +TO REMOVE STAINS OF WINE, FRUIT, &c. WHEN THEY HAVE BEEN LONG IN LINEN. + +Rub the part on each side with yellow soap, then lay on a mixture of +starch with cold water, very thick, like paste; rub it in well, and +expose the linen to the sun and air till the stain comes out; if not +removed in three or four days, take the starch off, and renew the +process. When dry, sprinkle it again with water, and send it to the +wash. + +Many other stains may be taken out by dipping the linen in sour +buttermilk, and drying it in a hot sun, then wash and dry it two or +three times in the day. + + +No. 13. + +TO REMOVE STAINS OF PORT WINE. + +Directly the wine is spilt, spread common salt all over the stain, and +wash it with water. + + +No. 14. + +TO TAKE STAINS OUT OF SCARLET CLOTH. + +Take soap wort, bruise it, strain out the juice, and add to it a small +quantity of black soap, wash the stains a few times with this liquor, +suffering the cloth to dry between, and in a day or two they will +disappear. + + +No. 15. + +TO TAKE STAINS OUT OF BLACK CLOTH, SILK, CRAPE, &c. + +Boil a handful of fig-leaves in two quarts of water, until reduced to +a pint; squeeze the leaves, take them out, and put the liquid into a +bottle for use. The articles need only be rubbed with a sponge dipped +in it, and the stains will soon disappear. + +When black is stained by fruit or other acids, the spotted part turns +yellow or red, touch it with a little spirits of hartshorn, which +immediately restores the colour. + + +No. 16. + +SCOURING DROPS + +Are used to remove stains and grease from all silks; they are rubbed on +with a bit of flannel, and generally answer perfectly well. They are +prepared as follows:— + +Mix equal quantities of spirits of turpentine, and essence of lemons. + + +No. 17. + +TO REMOVE GREASE FROM SILK. + +Rub it for some time with a split card, or a piece of cap paper, or if +much greased, lay under it a piece of soft paper, or blotting paper, +and the same over it, and place a warm iron upon it, which causes the +paper to imbibe the grease from the silk; after repeating this, taking +care each time the iron is applied to furnish clean bits of paper, then +rub it with split card, or soft paper. Cloth may be cleaned in the same +way. + +Or, dip a clean piece of flannel into spirits of turpentine, and rub +the spots until they disappear; the silk should not be made very wet +with turpentine, or it will lose its lustre. + + +No. 18. + +ANOTHER RECEIPT. + +Rub the part with French chalk, or with part of the back of the cuttle +fish scraped, which may be bought at the druggists for one penny each. + + +No. 19. + +LIQUID FOR REMOVING SPOTS OF GREASE, PITCH, OR OIL FROM LINEN AND +CLOTHES. + +In a pint of spring water, dissolve an ounce of pure pearl ash, add to +the solution a lemon cut in small slices. This being properly mixed and +kept in a warm state for two days, the whole must be strained, and the +clear liquid kept in a bottle for use. + +A little of this mixture being poured on the stained part, removes all +spots of grease, pitch, or oil, and the moment they disappear, the +cloth is washed in clear water. + + +No. 20. + +TO REMOVE GREASE FROM SILK OR WOOLLEN. + +Mix together three ounces of spirits of wine, three ounces of French +chalk powdered, and five ounces of pipe clay. + +Rub the mixture on the stain, either wet or dry, and afterwards take it +off with a brush. + +Sometimes an equal quantity of spirits of turpentine and pipe clay +mixed, and used as above, will have the desired effect. + +This will remove stains from silk, woollen or cotton. + + +No. 21. + +PORTABLE BALLS FOR REMOVING GREASE SPOTS. + +Dry fuller’s earth so as to crumble easily into powder, and moisten it +well with lemon juice, add a small quantity of pure pulverized pearl +ash, and work the whole up into a thick paste; roll it up into small +balls, let them dry in the heat of the sun, and they will be ready for +use. + +The manner of using them is by moistening with water the spots on the +cloth, rubbing the ball upon them, and leaving them to dry in the sun; +on washing the places with water, and very often, with brushing alone, +the spots will disappear. + + +No. 22. + +TO TAKE OUT MILDEW. + +Mix soft soap with powdered starch, half as much salt, and the juice of +a lemon. Lay it on the mildewed part, on both sides, with a brush. Let +it lie on the grass day and night till the stain comes out. + + +No. 23. + +TO TAKE OUT IRON-MOULDS. + +Rub them with sulphuret of potash; then bathe them well with citric +acid (lemon acid), afterwards wash the places well in water, and the +linens will be completely restored. + + +No. 24. + +TO REMOVE PAINT SPOTS FROM SILK, &c. + +Apply spirits of turpentine repeatedly, when the article is silk. + +If it is muslin or linen, cover it with butter, and then wash it. + + +No. 25. + +TO CLEAN SILKS AND COTTONS WITHOUT INJURY TO THEIR COLOUR OR TEXTURE. + +Grate two or three raw potatoes into a pint of clean water, and pass +the liquid through a sieve, when it has stood to settle, pour off the +clear part, and it will be fit for use. + +Dip a clean sponge in the liquid, and apply it to the silk till the +dirt is well separated, then wash it in pure water. + +The coarse pulp of the potatoes which does not pass the sieve, is of +great use in cleaning worsted curtains, carpets, and other coarse goods. + + +No. 26. + +TO WASH BLACK SILK AND CRAPE. + +Warm some small beer, and mix some milk with it, then sponge the silk +with this liquid, and it will freshen the colour very much. + +A strong decoction of fig-leaves, a little gin, or spirits of wine, +will have an equally good effect. + + +No. 27. + +TO RESTORE RUSTY SILK. + +Boil some green tea in an iron pot, nearly a cup full of tea to three +quarts of water. Sponge the silk with it, and iron it while damp. + + +No. 28. + +TO CLEAN BOMBAZINE. + +Use the liquid mentioned, No. 25, and sponge the bombazine with it, and +then with water, remembering to rub width-wise, not selvage-wise, or +the bombazine will be frayed. + + +No. 29. + +COMPOSITION FOR RESTORING SCORCHED LINEN. + +Boil to a consistency two ounces of fuller’s earth, half an ounce of +cake soap, and the juice of two onions, in half a pint of vinegar. +Spread it over the damaged part, and suffer it to dry on, then give it +one or two washings, and if the scorching is not so great as to injure +the threads, the part will appear white and perfect. + + +No. 30. + +TO CLEAN CALICO FURNITURE. + +Shake off the loose dust, and slightly brush it with a small long +haired brush; after which, wipe it with clean flannels, and rub it with +dry old bread. If well done, the furniture will look nearly as well as +at first. + +Bran is also an excellent cleanser. + +While furniture remains up, it should be preserved as much as possible +from sun and air, which injure delicate colours; the dust may be blown +off with bellows. + + +No. 31. + +TO CLEAN CHINTZ. + +Chintz may be cleaned as follows:— + +Boil two pounds of rice in two gallons of water till it is soft, when +the whole is poured into a tub fit for use. + +Wash the chintz till it is quite clean in soap and water, and then +rinse it in the rice water, which will act like starch. In drying, it +must be hung very smoothly, and rubbed with a glazed stone, but not +ironed. + +An upper crust of bread or bran, are very good for cleaning also. + + +No. 32. + +TO SCOUR CARPETS. + +Shake the carpet well. + +Dissolve one ounce and a half of alum in a quart of warm water, also +one ounce and a half of fuller’s earth in another quart of warm water, +put a little of each into a bucket full of soft water, adding a very +little gall, and rubbing in some common brown soap. Then wash a small +piece of the carpet with a flannel dipped in this mixture, so as to +make it rather wet, and to shew the colour, brush it over with soap, +which must be well washed off, and the carpet rubbed over with a coarse +cloth. Then wash it over without soap, and with water in which alum, +gall, and fuller’s earth are mixed, and rub it as dry as possible with +a cloth. When the whole carpet is washed over in this manner, piece by +piece, it will appear as fresh and bright as a new one. The quantities +here given are sufficient for a large sized carpet. + +If a carpet is not very much soiled, it may be cleaned by being first +well shook and beaten, and then scoured with gall, and soap and water, +after which, it must be laid on the grass, or hung up to dry. + + +No. 33. + +TO WASH SILK HANDKERCHIEFS. + +These must be first washed in cold water, and the second lather must be +only lukewarm, then rinse them in cold water, dry them gradually, and +send them to the mangle. + + +No. 34. + +TO WASH COLOURED MUSLINS, PRINTS, &c. + +Coloured muslin, washing silk handkerchiefs and aprons, should have +a little spirits of wine in the water, about a dessert spoonful to a +gallon. + +For prints, a little gall will fix the colours; if the principal +colour is lilac, pearl ash put in the water will refresh it. If green +prevails, put in a few half pence. + + +No. 35. + +TO MAKE LINEN WHITE THAT HAS TURNED YELLOW. + +Heat a gallon of milk over the fire, and scrape into it one pound of +cake soap, when it is quite dissolved, put the linen in, and let it +boil some time, then take it out, put it into a lather of hot water, +and wash it properly out. + + +No. 36. + +TO MAKE LINEN WASHED IN THE TOWN AS PURE AND WHITE AS THAT WASHED IN +THE COUNTRY. + +In great towns where linen cannot be exposed to the air and sun upon +the grass, let it be steeped for some time before it is washed, in a +solution of oxmuriate of lime; let it then be boiled in an alkaline +lye. Linen or cotton thus treated, will not become yellow from age, as +is too often the case with town washed linen. + + +No. 37. + +TO WASH CHINA-CRAPE SCARFS, &c. + +Make a strong lather of soap and boiling water, suffer it to cool, +and when nearly cold, wash the scarf quickly and thoroughly; dip it +immediately afterwards into cold hard water, in which a little common +salt has been thrown, to preserve the colours; rinse, wring and hang +it out to dry in the open air; pin it at the extreme ends to the line, +so that it may not be folded together in any part. The more rapidly it +dries the clearer the colour will be. + + +No. 38. + +TO WASH BLONDE. + +If the blonde be very narrow, it should be slightly run to the edge +of either net, or old tulle, in order to make it easier to iron, tack +it together in the same way that lace is done, in a length of three +or four nails, and wash it clean, in a light lather of white soap and +water; then put it into a basin in which there is powder blue mixed +with cold water, of a sufficiently deep colour to remove the yellow +tinge of the soiled blonde. + +The iron should be getting ready whilst the blonde lies in the blue +water, which must be a few minutes, and it must only be taken out piece +by piece, to be pulled out and ironed whilst it is still damp. The iron +must be moderately warm. + +The tulle, which is spoiled by the washing, is then taken off, and the +blonde will be found to have a brightness similar to new. + +The following is another method, which has been found to answer equally +well:— + +Tack the blonde together as before; prepare a lather of fine white +soap and hot soft water, in which a little powder blue is mixed. Dip +the blonde into this hot water, and squeeze it in the hand, so that +it shall be wetted through and through, it should not be allowed to +remain in the water, lest the blue should settle upon it unequally. +When the colour is restored, take it out, and clap it between the +hands, while still folded, until it is nearly dry, when it must be +opened out, and ironed with a moderately hot iron. + + +No. 39. + +TO WASH LACE. + +The best methods of washing fine, and valuable lace, are as follows:— + +Take a pint bottle (which is better than a larger one, being more +easily held), wrap a piece of clean muslin or linen round it, and +fasten it with a few stitches, then wind the lace round the bottle, +avoiding the neck, and wash it in a light lather of white soap and +water. + +When it appears clean, rinse it in fresh water, and put the bottle in +the sun, or in a warm room, to dry the lace. + +On taking it off, pull it out with the first and second finger and +thumb, taking care not to tear it, at the same time to pull it open +to its full width; then lay it between the leaves of a blank book, or +pieces of thin card-board, not allowing one piece to fold over another, +and put it under a weight, till it is properly pressed. + +The soap should be cut in thin slices, and boiled in the water, to make +the lather; this is particularly adapted to Mechlin lace. + +The following plan is chiefly useful for Valenciennes or Lisle lace, or +for the borders of infants’ caps. + +Fold the piece of lace evenly backwards and forwards (not round and +round), the length of about three or four nails, and when done, tack +it together down the middle with long loose stitches; then wash it +thoroughly in a lather of white soap and water, rinsing it repeatedly, +and squeezing it in clear water, then, while still wet, dip it in a +mixture ready prepared of beer and water in equal quantities, let it +remain about a minute, and then wring it out. + +It must now be unstitched, and pulled out two or three times, until +nearly dry, this must be done width-wise of the lace, and very +thoroughly. Lay it on a table covered with a linen cloth, and glaze it +with a glass calender, or, if one is not at hand, with a glass phial +bottle. + +The beer gives the creamy colour of new lace, and a little stiffness +besides; some persons dip it in water, in which they put a little snuff +tied up in a muslin bag, to colour it, instead of the beer. + +Starch should never be put into lace, as it tears and spoils it. + + +No. 40. + +TO WASH KID GLOVES. + +Kid gloves, if they are good ones, and have never been touched by +Indian rubber, may be washed so as to look like new, in the following +manner; and some will bear the operation more than once; it answers +equally well both for white and coloured gloves. + +Lay the gloves on a clean towel, and with a piece of flannel dipped in +warm water with a good deal of white soap, rub them thoroughly till +all the dirt is removed; take care to use as little water as possible. +Hang them up to dry gradually, at a distance from the fire, and the +next morning, they will appear shrivelled and yellow, pull them out the +cross way of the leather, and they will soon resume their colour and +shape. + + +No. 41. + +TO CLEAN WHITE SATIN SHOES. + +Rub them with stale bread. Or rub them with a piece of new flannel +dipped in spirits of wine. + + +No. 42. + +TO KEEP BLONDE, WHITE SATIN, SILK, &c. + +The above, and all articles which are apt to be discoloured by lying +by, should be wrapped up and covered with the coarsest brown paper, as +the turpentine contained in it, is an effectual preservation. + + +No. 43. + +TO DYE GLOVES LIKE YORK-TAN OR LIMERICK. + +Put some saffron into a pint of soft water boiling hot, and let it +infuse all night; next morning, wet the leather all over with a brush. + +The tops should be previously sewed up, to prevent the colour getting +in. + + +No. 44. + +TO DYE WHITE GLOVES TO PURPLE. + +Boil four ounces of logwood, and two ounces of rock alum, in three +pints of soft water, till it is half wasted; strain, and let it stand +till cold. Then wet the gloves all over with a brush dipped in this +mixture, and repeat it when dry. + +Twice is sufficient, unless the colour is to be very dark. When dry, +rub off the loose dye with a coarse cloth, beat up the white of an egg, +and rub it over the gloves with a sponge. + +The hands will be stained in the process of dyeing, but wetting them +with vinegar before they are washed, will take it off. + + +No. 45. + +WASH FOR LEATHER GLOVES. + +If you wish to have your gloves quite yellow, take yellow ochre; if +quite white, pipe clay; if between the two, mix a little of each; if +dark, take rotten stone and fuller’s earth. + +By a proper mixture of these, you may produce any shade you desire; mix +the colour you fix on with beer or vinegar, _not water_, and apply it +to the gloves, having previously washed them, let them dry gradually, +rub and pull them out crosswise. + +After applying the mixture equally all over, let them dry very +gradually, not in the sun or near a fire, lest they should shrink. Rub +and pull them out before they are quite dry. + + +No. 46. + +TO DYE COTTON A NANKEEN COLOUR. + +Keep old nails and rusty iron for fifteen days in good vinegar; apply +this dye to the cotton with a brush, it will give an excellent colour, +which improves by washing. + + +No. 47. + +TO DYE THE LININGS OF FURNITURE BUFF OR SALMON COLOUR, ACCORDING TO THE +DEPTH OF THE HUE. + +Rub down on a pewter plate two pennyworth of Spanish annatto, and then +boil it in a pail of water a quarter of an hour. Put into it two ounces +of potash, stir it round, and instantly put in the lining; stir it +about all the while it is boiling, which must be five or six minutes; +then put it into cold pump water, and hang the articles up singly +without wringing; when almost dry, fold and mangle it. + + +PINK. + +The calico must be washed extremely clean, and dried. Then boiled in +two gallons of soft water, and four ounces of alum; take it out, and +dry it in the air. In the mean time boil in the alum water two handfuls +of wheat bran, till quite slippery, and then strain it. + +Take two scruples of cochineal, and two ounces of argall, finely +pounded and sifted; mix it with the liquor, a little at a time; then +put the calico into the liquor and boil it till it is almost wasted, +moving it about. + +Take out the calico, and wash it in chamber lye first, and cold water +after; then rinse it in water, starch, strain, and dry it quickly +without hanging in folds. Mangle it very highly, unless you have it +calendered, which is the best. + + +BLUE. + +Let the calico be washed clean and dried, then mix some of Scott’s +liquid blue in as much water as will be sufficient to cover the things +to be dyed, and put in some starch to give it a light stiffness. Dry a +bit to see if the colour is deep enough; then put the linen, &c. into +it, and wash it; dry the articles singly, and mangle or calender them. + + +No. 48. + +TO CLEAN GOLD AND SILVER LACE. + +Sew the lace in linen cloth, and boil it in a pint of water, and two +ounces of soap, then wash it in water. + +When it is tarnished, apply a little warm spirits of wine to the +tarnished part. + + +No. 49. + +TO PRESERVE LINEN FROM MOTHS. + +When well washed and dried, fold it up, and scatter in the folds +powdered cedar wood, having previously perfumed your chest or drawers +with storax; this will effectually prevent damp or moths from injuring +the linen. + + +No. 50. + +TO PRESERVE WOOLLENS AND BLANKETS. + +They should first be properly washed in a lather of soap and water, and +well dried, then pepper must be sprinkled over them before they are +folded up and put away. + +It is a good plan to keep them in brown paper bags. + + +No. 51. + +TO PRESERVE FURS AND WOOLLENS FROM MOTHS. + +Let the former be occasionally combed, while in use, and the latter +brushed and shaken. When put away, dry them very well, then mix among +them bitter apples from the apothecary’s, sewed up in small muslin +bags, or pieces of Russia leather. + + +No. 52. + +TO VARNISH OLD STRAW OR CHIP HATS. + +Take half an ounce of the best black sealing wax, bruise it, and put +to it two ounces of spirits of turpentine, melt the sealing wax very +gently, by placing the bottle that holds it in boiling water, near the +fire, taking care the spirit does not catch fire; when all the wax is +melted, lay it on the hat warm, with a fine hair brush, near the fire, +or in the sun. It will not only give a beautiful gloss and stiffness to +the hat, but will make it resist wet. + + +No. 53. + +TO RAISE THE SURFACE OF VELVET. + +Warm a smoothing iron moderately, cover it with a wet cloth, hold it +under the velvet, and the vapour arising from the heated cloth will +raise the pile of the velvet, especially with the assistance of a rush +wisk. Velvet should be cleaned either with a bit of old velvet or crape. + + +No. 54. + +TO MAKE STARCH. + +Peel and grate a quantity of potatoes, put the pulp into a coarse +cloth, between two boards, and press it into a dry cake; the juice thus +pressed out of the potatoe, must be mixed with an equal quantity of +water, and in an hour’s time it will deposit a fine sediment, which may +be used as starch. + + +No. 55. + +TO MAKE COURT PLAISTER. + +Lay some thin black silk on the table, and put on it with a brush some +dissolved isinglass, or gum water, and let it dry, then dip it several +times in the white of an egg. + + +No. 56. + +TO MAKE LAVENDER WATER. + +To one pint of spirits of wine, add eight pennyworth of essence of +ambergris, and one shilling worth of oil of lavender. + + +No. 57. + +TO MAKE EAU DE COLOGNE. + + Spirits of wine (rectified at 36 degrees), one pound and a half, + Essence of bergamot, two drachms, + Essence of rosemary, half a drachm, + Essence of cedras, half a drachm, + Essence of lemon, half a drachm, + Essence of orange flowers, twenty drops, + Essence of mereby, twenty drops, + Spirits of melisse, one ounce and a half, + Of soft water, boiled and dropt slowly through clean blotting paper, + one quart. + + +No. 58. + +POWDER FOR INFANTS’ DUST BAGS. + +The skin of infants is so apt to chafe, if not thoroughly dried after +washing, that powder is put upon all the folds of their skin, and +rubbed by the hand upon them. + +This is either put on with a powder puff, or dusted out of little +muslin bags. + +Lapis calaminaris, a fine yellow powder, is that generally used. + +Fuller’s earth is particularly adapted, from its cooling nature, to +check inflammation. It is dusted on when the skin is not sore, but when +the chafing has taken place it is put on mixed with cold water. + +Violet powder is often used, but this is frequently mixed with some +hurtful ingredient, which irritates and inflames the skin, and is +therefore objected to by medical men. It can be procured perfectly +harmless, but the druggist of whom it is purchased should be told for +what purpose it is intended. + + +No. 59. + +POT-POURRI, OR SWEET SCENT JAR. + +Put the following ingredients into a large china jar, in layers, with +bay salt between each layer; two pecks of damask roses, part in buds, +and part blown; of violets, jessamine, and orange flowers, a handful +each; two ounces of orris root sliced, storax, and gum benjamin; a +quarter of a pound of angelica root sliced; a quart of the red part of +clove gilly flowers, two handsful of lavender flowers, half a handful +of rosemary flowers, bay and laurel leaves; three Seville oranges, +stuck as full of cloves as possible, dried in a cool oven, and pounded; +half a handful of knotted majoram, two handsful of balm of gilead dried. + +Cover all quite close for some weeks, and the perfume is very fine. + + +No. 60. + +A QUICKER SORT OF POT-POURRI. + +Take three handsful of orange flowers, three of clove gilly flowers, +three of damask roses, one of knotted marjoram, one of lemon thyme, +six bay leaves, two handsful of rosemary, a handful of myrtle, half a +one of mint, one of lavender, the rind of a lemon, and a quarter of an +ounce of cloves. + +Chop them all, and put them in layers with pounded bay salt between +them, up to the top of the jar. + +If all the ingredients cannot be procured at once, put them in as you +obtain them, always throwing in bay salt, after each fresh layer. + + +No. 61. + +SCENT BAGS TO LAY IN DRAWERS. + +Half a pound of coriander seeds, half a pound of damask rose leaves, +half a pound of sweet orris root, half a pound of calamus aromaticus, +one ounce of mace, one ounce of cinnamon, half an ounce of cloves, +three ounces of verbena powder, four drachms of musk powder, two +drachms of loaf sugar, three ounces of lavender flowers, and some +rhodium wood; beat them well together, and sew them up in muslin or +silk bags. + + +No. 62. + +TO MAKE SHOES WATERPROOF. + +One pound of mutton suet, four ounces of bees-wax, two ounces of Venice +turpentine, mixed altogether; the bees-wax being melted and strained. + +Put on the composition with a hare’s foot or brush, drying it before +the fire, and repeating it at intervals of time, till all the seams and +little cracks are filled up. + +No. 63. + +REMEDY AGAINST FLEAS. + +Sew the leaves of fresh penny-royal, in little muslin bags, and put +them between the blankets, or mattresses. Wormwood, or dried moss, will +have the same effect. + + +No. 64. + +TO PREVENT BEING BITTEN BY BUGS. + +Put a sprig or two of tansy at the head of the bed, or as near the +pillow as is not disagreeable. Pieces of camphor sewed to the bed, or +mattress, will also drive them away. + + +No. 65. + +TO DESTROY BUGS. + +Mix some quicksilver in a mortar with the white of an egg, till the +quicksilver is all mixed, and there are no bubbles; then beat up the +white of another egg, and put it to the mixture in the mortar, till it +becomes a fine ointment. + +Anoint the bedstead all over in every crack, with a brush, and put it +also about the cord lacing, head board, &c. When repeated for the two +or three following days, the cure will be effectual, and the bedstead +uninjured. + + +No. 66. + +TO DESTROY FLIES. + +Ground black pepper and moist sugar mixed in equal quantities, and +diluted with milk, put into saucers, adding fresh milk, and stirring +the mixture when required. + + +No. 67. + +TO DESTROY BUGS FROM FURNITURE. + +Wash the bedstead or floor with water thoroughly saturated with glauber +salts, once or twice a year, and the bugs will shortly be effectually +destroyed. + + The following receipts have been taken from that useful + and interesting work, called the Magazine of Domestic + Economy, which is strongly recommended to the notice + of all those who are engaged in the management of a + household, as containing a great variety of directions + and useful knowledge in every branch of domestic economy. + + +No. 68. + +TO PREPARE RABBIT SKINS. + +To be good, the skin should be in season. + +Take the skin as fresh as possible, and having mixed a quantity of salt +and water, till it will bear an egg, saturate it with alum; put your +skin into this mixture, blood warm, and let it lie and soak twenty-four +hours; then take it out, and having tacked it upon a board, the fur +inwards, scrape the skin, and a thin membrane will come off; then +having warmed up the liquor again, put your skin again into it, and let +it remain five hours more, after which, take it out and nail it upon a +board to dry, the fur inwards as before; and rub it well with pumice +stone and whiting. + + +No. 69. + +FRENCH POLISH FOR BOOTS, SHOES, AND HARNESS. + +A quarter of a pound of glue, half a pound of logwood chips, a quarter +of an ounce of indigo, powdered very fine, a quarter of an ounce of +soft soap, a quarter of an ounce of isinglass. + +Boil these ingredients in two pints of vinegar and one pint of water, +during ten minutes after the ebullition begins. + +Then strain the liquid; when cold it is fit for use, and may be put +into either pint or half pint bottles. + +The dirt must be sponged off the boots and shoes, and the polish +afterwards put on with a clean sponge; should the polish ever become +too thick, it must be held near to the fire to warm a little, when the +heat will give it the proper liquescence. + + +No. 70. + +TO PRESERVE GILT FRAMES AND LAMPS. + +It is usual to clothe all frames and lamps with gauze, Holland, muslin +or chintz bags, to protect them from damp, but this practice has been +stated to be very injurious to them, as these bags are known to retain +any moisture for so long a time as to be of great injury to the gilt; +whereas, when left uncovered, though more exposed to the air, it +becomes sooner dry. + +The following is a good method of + + +REVIVING GILT FRAMES. + +Beat up three ounces of eggs, with one ounce of chloride of potash, or +soda, lay it over the frame with a soft brush dipped in the mixture. + + +No. 71. + +TO MAKE CLOTH WATERPROOF. + +Take half an ounce of isinglass (Russian is best), put it into one +pound of rain water, and boil until dissolved; take one ounce of alum, +put it into two pounds of water, and boil till it is dissolved; take a +quarter of an ounce of white soap, with one pound of rain water, and +boil till it is dissolved. After each of these ingredients has been +separately dissolved, strain them separately through a piece of linen; +afterwards mix them well together in a pot, put it on the fire again +till it simmers, then take it off, and while thus near boiling, dip a +brush into it, and apply it to the wrong side of the cloth intended to +be waterproof. + +The cloth must be spread out on a table during the operation, and +remain there until it is dry; after it is dry it must be brushed on +the wrong side against the grain; and then dipping the brush in clear +water, pass it lightly over, and leave it again to dry. + +After that, the gloss caused by the application of the ingredients can +be taken off. + +Three days after the operation has been done, the cloth will be +impervious to water but not to air. + + +No. 72. + +TO EXTRACT GREASE SPOTS FROM LINEN. + +The following method is not generally known, and is the best we ever +met with. + +Take magnesia in the lump, wet it, and rub the grease spots well with +it. In a little time brush it off, and no appearance of grease will be +left. + + +No. 73. + +TO CLEAN MERINO CURTAINS. + +Remove the dust as much as possible with a brush, and lay the curtain +over a large table, and having procured three or four pieces of +flannel, and a quantity of bran, sprinkle a handful of the latter on a +portion of the furniture, and proceed to rub it round and round with a +bit of the flannel. When the bran becomes soiled, take more bran and +a fresh piece of flannel, and thus continue till the merino becomes +bright and clean. + + +No. 74. + +METHOD OF CLEANSING SILK, WOOLLEN, AND COTTON. + +Take raw potatoes in their natural state, and when well washed, let +them be rubbed on a grater over a vessel of clean water, to a fine +pulp; pass the liquid matter through a coarse sieve into another tub of +clean water; let this mixture stand till the fine white particles of +potatoe are precipitated, then pour off the liquor, which preserve for +use. + +The article to be cleaned should be laid on a table, and well rubbed +with a sponge dipped in the liquor until clean, when it is washed +several times in clean water, and then dried and ironed. + +Two middle sized potatoes will suffice for a pint of water. The coarse +pulp of the potatoe, which will not pass the sieve, is of use in +cleaning worsted curtains, tapestry, carpets, and other coarse goods, +while the liquor prepared as above, will clean silk, cotton, and +woollen goods. + + +No. 75. + +TO BLEACH WOOL. + +To one pound of wool yarn, take two pounds of powdered white chalk, +mixed with river water, to the consistency of paste; knead the yarn +thoroughly in it, that it may be completely saturated, and let it dry +for twenty-four hours, then rub it well, and wash it in cold water, to +remove all the chalk, and the yarn will be quite clean, and very white. + +Warm water spoils the colour of the wool. + + +No. 76. + +BALLS FOR REMOVING SPOTS FROM CLOTH. + +Mix well four ounces of fuller’s earth, dried so as to crumble into +powder, with a piece of lemon; when well incorporated, add two drachms +of common pearl ash powdered. Work up the whole into a stiff paste, and +form it into balls. + +Set them to dry on a gently heated stove, and when dry, they are fit +for use. + +When using this preparation, first moisten with cold water, the spots +you wish to remove, and rub a ball all over them. Let the place dry in +the sun, or near the fire, and when quite dry, wash the spots with a +sponge and water, and they will disappear. + + +No. 77. + +MODE OF WASHING A SILK DRESS. + +If the dress is made up, the seams need not be separated, but the body +should be removed from the skirt, and the lining taken away from the +bottom. Trimming and ornaments should be taken off. + +If dirty, let the dress be simply washed first in soft, cold clear +water, and if black, a pint of gin should be added to every gallon of +water, then proceed as follows:— + + Lay the dress on a clean smooth table, a flannel should be + well soaped, being made just wet enough with lukewarm water, + and the silk rubbed one way, being careful that this rubbing + is quite even. When the dirt has disappeared, the soap must + be washed off with a sponge, and plenty of cold water. As + soon as one side is finished, the other must be washed + precisely in the same manner. + + Observe that not more of either side must be done at a time, + than can be spread perfectly flat upon the table, and the + hand conveniently reach; likewise, the soap must be sponged + off one portion of the dress, before the soaped flannel is + applied to another. + + The dresses should be hung up on a linen horse, in the + shade, and when dry, if of a black, or dark blue colour, + another sponging of gin, or whiskey, is highly advantageous. + + Washed silks are spoiled if ironed with a hot iron, therefore + use one of moderate heat, with a sheet of paper between. + +No. 78. + +INDIAN RUBBER VARNISH. + +Put in a bottle two ounces of Indian rubber, cut very small; add one +pound of spirits of turpentine, and stop the bottle close, that the +spirit may not evaporate; leave it two days without moving, then stir +the liquor with a wooden spatula, and if the India rubber is swollen, +and has absorbed the spirit, add a sufficient quantity for it just to +swim in the liquid. Stir it every forty-eight hours, till the India +rubber is quite dissolved, which is ascertained by squeezing a little +of it between the fingers; when in this state put it into a glass +bottle and keep it well corked till wanted for use; the longer it is +kept the better it becomes. + + +No. 79. + +TO CLEAN PAINT THAT IS NOT VARNISHED. + +Put upon a plate some of the best whiting, have ready some clean warm +water, and a piece of flannel, which dip into the water and squeeze +nearly dry; then take as much whiting as will adhere to it, apply it +to the paint, when a little rubbing will instantly remove any dirt or +grease; wash it well off with water, and rub it dry with a soft cloth. + +Paint thus cleaned looks equal to new; and without doing the least +injury to the most delicate colour, it will preserve the paint much +longer than if cleaned with soap; and it does not require more than +half the time usually occupied in cleaning. + + +No. 80. + +HINTS ON PURCHASING FURNITURE. + +A misfortune of not very rare occurrence, is the splitting of valuable +tables that are veneered. We have known the infliction, and we guard +others from a similar annoyance. + +One of the causes may be traced to the cabinet makers; it is not +unusual for them to make use of wood for the foundation, that has not +been sufficiently seasoned, and is besides of an open porous texture, +so different from the close hard grained wood, which is to form the +veneer, that a very long time is requisite before they can manufacture +their goods without risk of shrinking. + +In order to ensure this certainty of seasoning, a larger stock of wood +is required than is always convenient to be on hand by a cabinet maker, +either from want of capital or accommodation; hence, the purchase of +new furniture requires circumspection. + +In this, as well as every other requisite, we would enforce the oft +repeated advice, that a preference is always given to the trader of +known probity. + +Chance bargains, cheap to the eye, almost always become dear and +unsatisfactory in the end. + +Veneered furniture which is purchased from a damp warehouse, and +brought suddenly into a well aired warm room will almost infallibly fly. + +Chests of drawers, particularly if they be made of coarse Honduras +mahogany, scarcely fail to crack, and throw up from their edges slips +of veneer, which snap off, and are swept away, leaving unsightly white +gaps; these have to be replaced, and look shabby and patched. + +Spanish mahogany, though much more expensive in the first purchase, is +far more certain, hard, rich-coloured, and durable. + +It is essential that new furniture should be inured by degrees to a +change of temperature, in order to prevent this hazardous warping, and +unequal contracting of the wood. Tables in particular, if intended to +occupy a station opposite a fire, should be kept with the grain of the +wood lying longways; not the ends of the grain and the joint pointing +to the fire; for want of this simple precaution, we have known a +beautiful rosewood table entirely spoiled. + +Spanish mahogany was the beautiful wood which was first known in +England, and which was said to be of so hard and close a grain as to +turn the edges of our workmen’s tools; but since our possessions and +commerce have been extended to the North of America, we have been +stocked with vast quantities of that open grained inferior kind, that +is made into almost all our household goods, and which, from its +facility of working, is so cheap, that purchasers are continually +deceived by unprincipled tradesmen, by the substitution of one for the +other. + +No person can well be deceived, however, to whom the two sorts of wood +have been explained; the one (Spanish) being rich-coloured, of an even +texture, like satin, when polished, with no grain visible; the other +pale, rough, and uneven when highly polished, shewing the coarse grain +like threads; the latter too is so soft, that it is dented with the +slightest touch, a pencil-case falling upon it, six inches from its +surface, will leave a dent that never can be removed, unless the whole +is plained over. + + +No. 81. + +TO CLEAN SPONGE. + +Wash them in very dilute tartaric acid, rinsing them afterwards in +water; it will make them very soft and white. Be careful to dilute the +acid well, as it is very corrosive. + + +No. 82. + +A USEFUL GLUE. + +This is excellent for joining wood, in furniture, &c., as it forms so +tenacious a union of the parts, that the point of junction is stronger, +and is more difficult to break, than any other part of the wood. Also +if sawdust is mixed up into a ball with the glue, it becomes solid and +elastic, so as to be fit for turning. + +Beat an ounce of isinglass to shreds, and put it into a small skillet, +and pour over it a pint of brandy. Set the skillet over a very slow +fire, so that a very gentle heat may be applied to the mixture. When +all the isinglass is dissolved, strain the solution, and put it in a +wide mouthed bottle with a glass stopper, which must remain constantly +closed. + +At the time it is required for use, it must be liquified by a moderate +heat, which renders it thin and transparent. + +This solution in brandy never corrupts, and is therefore the best form +of dissolved isinglass for fining wines, and other liquids. + +This solution likewise serves admirably for taking impressions of coins +and models, over the surface of which, a very thin coating must be +poured of the melted glue. + +This coating being left on the coin, medal, or seal, during several +days, until it is hard, is then a tough, horny, transparent substance, +bearing the impression in relief on one side, and in intaglio on the +other. + +Nothing can injure this glue excepting water, which dissolves it, +therefore it will not serve as a cement for china, or any thing holding +or coming in contact with water. + + +No. 83. + +TO PRESERVE BRASS ORNAMENTS. + +Brass ornaments, when not gilt or lackered, may be cleaned, and a fine +colour may be given to them by either of the two following simple +processes. + +The first is, to beat sal-ammoniac into a fine powder, then to moisten +it with soft water, rubbing it on the ornaments, which must be heated +over charcoal, and rubbed dry with bran and whiting. + +The second is, to wash the brass work with roche alum boiled in strong +lye, in the proportion of an ounce to a pint; when dry, it must be +rubbed with fine tripoli. + + +No. 84. + +CHEAP SCOURING DROPS. + +Take a wine-glassful of the rectified oil of turpentine, half a +tea-spoonful or more of essential oil of lemons, mix them well, and +preserve in a well stopped phial. If you have not oil of lemons, oil of +cloves, or of cinnamon, or of peppermint, will do. + +The scorning drops thus prepared, are of a pleasant odour, and will +take out of silk, woollen, linen, or cotton stuffs, all sorts of grease +spots, oil, paint, pitch, tar, fruit stains, &c. by rubbing a little on +the satin, with a piece of flannel or woollen cloth. + +A bit of silk velvet is the best rubber for silks; the drops do not +affect the colour of stuffs. + + +No. 85. + +IMITATION OF MAPLE WOOD. + +For frames or furniture. The stain is merely aquafortis, washed on with +a brush; as soon as it has been hastily brushed over, hold the article +to the fire, it will become yellow in a few minutes. It is then to be +brushed over with copal varnish, and left to dry in the sun or open +air; two or three coats completely fill the pores of the wood; then rub +it gently with a bit of flat pumice-stone, and give it another coat, +perhaps two, letting it be completely dry between each; then polish +again very gently, and finish off with flour and a soft rag. It is as +good as French polish, and may be washed at any time. + + +No. 86. + +RECEIPT FOR FRENCH POLISH. + + One quart of rectified spirits of wine, + Two ounces of seed lac, + One ounce of shell lac, + One ounce of gum sandrach, + One ounce of gum copal, + One ounce of camphor, + +Pound the gums together and put them with the whole of the other +articles into a stone bottle; cork it securely, and place the bottle in +hot water, shaking it often, till all be dissolved. + +A very small quantity is said to be used at a time, and only a small +surface of the piece of furniture is covered with the liquid, and that +is rubbed off immediately; a little more is then applied, which is also +rubbed off, and this is repeated till the desired polish is attained. +Another part of the table &c. is then treated in the same manner, till +the whole surface is polished. + + +No. 87. + +TO CLEAN HAIR BRUSHES. + +The best mode is to use soda, dissolved in cold water, instead of soap +and hot water; the latter very soon softens the hairs of the brush, +and the rubbing completes their destruction. Soda having an affinity +for grease, cleans the brush with very little friction. Hair brushes +are generally chosen by the whiteness and delicacy of the hair, it is +therefore prepared (which is injurious to them) to suit the taste of +purchasers. Dark white, coarse thick Foreign bristles make the most +durable brushes. + + +No. 88. + +TO CLEAN KID GLOVES, WHITE OR COLOURED. + +Have ready a little new milk in one saucer and a piece of brown soap in +another, and a clean cloth or towel folded three or four times. On the +cloth spread out the glove smooth and neat; take a piece of flannel, +dip it in the milk, then rub off a good quantity of soap on to the +wetted flannel, and commence to rub the glove downwards, towards the +fingers, holding it firmly with the left hand. Continue this process +till the glove, if white, looks of a dingy yellow, though clean; if +coloured, till it looks dark and spoiled; lay it to dry, and the old +gloves shall look nearly new. They will become soft, elastic, smooth +and glossy. + + +WASHING AND IRONING. + +As the appearance of many articles of dress depends greatly upon the +skill of the washerwoman, it is thought that a few hints on the subject +may not be misapplied; these have been collected from experienced +laundresses, and from that excellent little work “Cottage Comforts.” +The first things to be attended to are, the articles required for both +wash-house and laundry, which are as follows:— + +1ST. LARGE AND SMALL WASHING TUBS.—These should be of smooth wood, +with no nails, or iron hoops outside, lest the linen should be torn or +rusted. + +2ND. A COPPER FURNACE in which to boil the Linen.—If required for large +washings, it should be capable of holding eighteen or twenty gallons of +water. + +3RD. A MAID OR DOLLEY.—These are sometimes circular like a barrel +churn, and sometimes upright, they are used for shaking and rinsing +dirty and coarse linen. + +4TH. LINES.—These should be of worsted, if not too expensive, otherwise +soft flaxen lines answer well. When they are done with, and dry, they +should be taken down, wound on a skein, and put carefully aside until +wanted. + +5TH. LINE PEGS.—These should be of white soft wood; they must be kept +very clean for use, and counted before being put away. + +6TH. AS RAIN WATER is essential for many articles, if none is at hand, +a cask should be kept, to catch what falls from the house. + + +FOR THE LAUNDRY. + +The following articles are in use. + + 1st. Ironing cloths or blankets; these are generally made of + proper kind of flannel called fearnought; they should be + carefully dried when put away, lest moths should destroy + them. + 2nd. A mangle for heavy linen. + 3rd. The common irons for lighter articles. + 4th. The Italian iron for frills, &c. + 5th. The sleeve iron. + 6th. The box iron. + 7th. The gaufiering iron. + +ON WASHING LINEN, &c. + +A good washerwoman will examine carefully the linen she has to wash, +and rub soap on to such parts as require it the most, as the collars +and wristbands of shirts, taking care that the water is not too hot, +otherwise it will set in the dirt. + +She afterwards twice thoroughly washes out all her white things in +plenty of white warm lather, shaking each article out, and examining if +every spot or stain is removed. She then boils them, taking care not to +put too many into the copper at once. + +A small quantity of soft soap thrown in to the boil, helps to give a +good colour to the linen, and if well washed out of the boil, as all +linen ought to be, and afterwards well rinsed in plenty of spring +water, no unpleasant smell will be retained. + +The rinsing water should be made moderately blue, by means of stone +blue tied up in a flannel bag, and squeezed in. + +Such things as are to be starched, will be much clearer if they are +first dried; then dipped in the starch before it is quite cold; then +dipped in cold water and dried again; then once more dipped in cold +water, spread upon a coarse dry cloth, and rolled up; by this mode +also, their sticking to the ironing cloth, will be prevented. + +The best way to make starch, is, very gradually to moisten with cold +water, a table spoonful of starch; when quite smooth, stir it into a +pint of boiling water, with a morsel of white wax, and let it boil +gently for several minutes, stirring it all the time; when poured out, +cover it over with a plate, to prevent a skin forming at top, which is +both troublesome and wasteful. + +To prevent flannels or woollen stockings from shrinking, pour over +them, when new, boiling water; suffer it to remain till cold, then hang +them up without wringing; and when dry, shake them well. + +Greasy spots may be taken out of all kinds of woollen cloths, blankets, +scarlet cloaks, or table baizes, without injury to the colour, by +washing them with gall, instead of soap; the gall may be had at the +butcher’s, at 3_d._ a pint. + +A pint mixed up in a good sized tub of soft water, will be sufficient +for several articles; it will lather exactly like soap. + +This is the process used by the scourer. The articles so washed, will +require to be several times rinsed in water, to remove the smell of the +gall; when dry, they should be removed, and suffered to remain in the +mangle all night, after which, they will appear as good as new. + +In washing prints the colours should be rubbed as little as possible, +for which reason it is a good thing to boil a lather of soap till it +is like a jelly, mix this jelly with cold water, and wash them in it. +It is a good plan also to wash coloured things the first time, in +the suds in which flannels have been washed, if it is not too dirty. +They should be taken immediately from one water into another, and not +suffered to lie together damp, or they will dry streaky. + +When washed, rinse them twice in spring water, and hang them out +immediately, without wringing. + +Blankets are washed with soft soap. + +Gall is used for bombazines and stuffs. + +Any thing that has been singed in the ironing should be wetted with +cold water, and laid in the air. + +Soda may be put in the water in which very greasy cloths are washed, +but it is liable to spoil other things. + +Grease may be taken out with cold water and suds. + +Men and boy’s stockings should be steeped, and stewed in cold water and +soap, in a slow oven, or boiled. + + +HANGING TO DRY. + +Stockings should be hung by the toe, to prevent the feet becoming thick. + +Gowns should be pinned up by the shoulders, rather than by the bottom +of the skirt, or the body lining becomes discoloured. + + +MANGLING AND IRONING. + +Damp over the things, and iron or mangle them; the latter is used for +heavy linen, such as sheets, towels, table cloths, &c. + +Those articles which have buttons or thick plaits should not be +mangled; the mangle is injured by them; besides the buttons are broken +to pieces, and the plaited articles cannot be made smooth. + +In ironing, be careful first to rub over something of little value, +lest fine things be either scorched or smeared. + +The Italian iron is used entirely for puffs, frills, &c. + +The sleeve iron, which resembles a mushroom, having a half circle at +the top, to which is attached a handle or stalk, is put up through the +opening of the sleeve towards the wrist, and the sleeve is drawn or +passed over the iron backwards and forwards until it is all properly +ironed. This only suits some kinds of sleeves, but is remarkably good +for them. + +Let every thing be thoroughly dried, and aired by the fire, otherwise +they will have a tumbled, half finished appearance, besides exposing +the wearer to the risk of taking cold. + + +CLEAR STARCHING. + +Wash out the articles to be clear starched, and then in a very clean +vessel, put about two table spoonsful of water to two ounces of starch, +wet it and mix it well up into a paste, pour about half a pint of +boiling water upon it, keep stirring it all the while, till of the +proper consistency, then boil it up well for a quarter of an hour, and +by adding a little white wax, it prevents the starch sticking to the +iron. + +Dip the articles in, and wring the starch out again very dry, spread +the things on a clean cloth, and then roll the cloth and articles +together very tightly. It should remain thus about two hours, and then +be ironed nicely. + +The iron should be very clean; to effect this, rub it each time on +taking it from the fire, upon a little sand paper and a cloth. + + +GAUFIERING. + +This may be done either with gaufiering irons, or by means of straws, +which are brought in bundles prepared for the purpose. + +The following is the manner in which the straws are used:— + +Procure a board about a yard long, and six nails broad, cover it with +flannel, and fasten two tapes length-wise, leaving about a quarter of +a yard between them; then pin the net to the flannel at one end, and +place a straw over the tapes (between which the net is lying) and under +the net, the next straw is laid under the tapes and over the net, and +so on alternately, taking care that the upper straws are put close to +each other, upon the under ones, forming two layers of straws. When all +the net is folded, dip a coarse cloth in water, and wring it as dry as +you can, lay this upon the net, and iron it dry, pressing on the board +as much as you can without splitting the straws; remove the cloth, and +place the board before the fire for half an hour, when you may draw out +the upper straws, and run in some cotton to secure it, after which, the +remaining straws may be taken away, and the work is complete. + +Some persons hold the board in the steam of a kettle for some time and +then dry it before the fire, in preference to ironing it. + +Some others sprinkle it with very weak starch water, gum water, or rice +water, before ironing. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +KNITTING. + + +GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. + +Knitting is the art of uniting worsted, or any other material together, +without the aid of a loom. This work is applied to stockings, socks, +boots, coverlids, and various other articles of wear or ornament, and +is generally done with worsted, cotton or silk, but as the latter +material properly belongs to fancy work, it will not be often mentioned. + + +KNITTING PINS OR NEEDLES, + +As they are variously called, are made of iron or brass, for common +use, and steel for best. They can be procured of every size and +thickness, and are sold in sets, each set containing four pins. These +sets cost from ⅛_d._ to 2_d._ each, according to the metal and size. + +Ivory, bone, whalebone, steel, rosewood, ebony, and cane pins, of a +larger size and thickness, are employed for knitting coverlids, boots, +carpets, and other thickly knit articles. These are sometimes twenty +inches, or two feet long, and have a knob at one end to prevent the +stitches from slipping off. Of these pins two or three form the set. +For schools, common pins may be procured from a carpenter or turner, +for 2_d._ a set, whereas the former are charged at from 1_s._ 6_d._ to +8_s._ or 9_s._ the set. + + +MATERIALS FOR KNITTING. + +Worsted, lambs’ wool, or fleecy wool, is used for stockings, and other +wearing articles. + +Cotton is employed for curtains, window blinds, bags, fringe, &c. + +These materials are always sold by the weight; one pound contains +sixteen ounces. + +The expense of wools and worsteds varies so materially, that an average +price can hardly be stated. It has been sold as low as at 2_s._ per +pound, and as high as 6_s._ 6_d._ Crimsons are the most expensive +colours, greens and oranges the next, blue is more moderate, and black, +grey, purple, and pepper and salt are the least expensive, always +excepting white, which is the lowest of any. + +Grey and white common worsted contain a good deal of turpentine, and +are often preferred by the poor on that account. + +Black should be well soaked in strong vinegar, to set the colour, and +prevent its coming off on the hands while being knitted. + +Worsteds are more suitable for men’s and women’s stockings. + +Wools for children’s stockings, or for muffatees, ruffs, and other +lighter articles of wear, which should be soft and warm. + +All worsteds and wools should be carefully wrapped up in the coarsest +brown paper, which also contains turpentine, and keeps out the air. +They should be often looked to, as the moths are apt to get at them and +spoil them. + +Worsteds in use should be neatly wound in small balls, about the size +of an orange. + + +ON KNITTING STITCHES. + +In knitting, keep the ball in the pocket, or in a bag hung to the arm, +or a basket, and do not allow it to roll on the table or floor, to get +dusted. + +There are a great variety of knit stitches, all of which, are founded +on the following kinds, beginning with casting or setting on stitches, +all of which will be explained in due order. + + +CASTING ON STITCHES. + +This must be first learned, and signifies putting the stitches on the +pins, in order to begin working. + +There are two or three modes of doing this. + +Hold the worsted at about a quarter of a yard from the end, together +with one of the pins in the right hand, between the finger and thumb. + +Next, hold the worsted at some distance from the end, and lay it across +the palm of the left hand, holding it down with the fingers while you +make a loop, by bringing the worsted before the thumb, and carrying it +outside and back again, between the thumb and first finger into the +palm, taking care to cross it over the other worsted; with the right +hand put the pin under the loop, and take it off from the thumb upon +it, drawing the end of the worsted tight at the same time. Continue +making loops with the left thumb, and taking them off on the right hand +pin, until the proper number of stitches be set on. + +Another and a better mode, is that of knitting on the stitches. For +this purpose, after making the first loop with the left hand thumb, as +above, and slipping it off the thumb upon the right hand pin, continue +as follows:— + +Take another pin in the right hand, and put it under the loop on the +pin, making this right hand pin lie across under the left. Next, put +the worsted between the two pins, and press the end of the right hand +pin upon the worsted, till it is brought through the first stitch, +and forms a loop upon the pin. Take this loop off upon the left hand +pin, by putting the end of it under the loop, which gives it a kind of +twist; continue thus increasing the stitches on the left hand pin until +the proper number is formed. + + +THE COMMON KNITTING STITCH. + +After setting on the number of stitches in the manner before mentioned, +begin to knit them off from one pin to the other, as follows:— + +Hold the pin with the stitches on, in the left hand; with the right +hand, put the other pin under the first loop, making the pin lie across +behind the left hand pin, while with the first finger, the worsted is +drawn in front between the pins. Then with the end of the right pin, +press this worsted till it is brought through the stitch in the form +of a loop upon the right hand pin. Keep it on the right pin, taking +the loop quite off from the left pin. Continue knitting the stitches +off the left upon the right hand pin, till the row is completed, when +change pins, putting the one with stitches in the left hand, and the +disengaged pin in the other. + + +DUTCH COMMON KNITTING. + +This is another mode of knitting the common stitch, and is more simple, +and more quickly done than the usual way. + +Hold the pin-ful of stitches in the left hand, as also the worsted, +which should be wound once or twice round the little finger, to keep it +firm, and allowed to pass over the first finger to the pins. The right +hand pin is then simply passed through the stitch, and catching the +worsted outside, draws it through, and forms the loop on the right pin, +and so on. + + +THE TURN OR SEAM STITCH. + +This is also called back-stitching, or pearling, but when alluded to +hereafter, it will invariably be called turn-stitch. It is simply +bringing the worsted between the needles, and taking up the loop, by +putting the needle into the stitch from behind, and knitting it off by +putting the worsted round the pin, and pressing the loop through the +stitch. + + +WIDENING. + +This is increasing the number of loops, and is generally done in the +middle of a pin-ful of stitches. + +There are various modes of widening. One is, that of simply passing +the worsted in front, before knitting the loop, and is termed making +a stitch. Another, is effected by taking up the cross loop, below the +next stitch belonging to the row before, and afterwards continuing the +plain knitting. + +In some cases where the widening occurs at the end, in order to form +a gradual slope, knit the last stitch without taking the loop off the +pin. Again put the right hand pin into the loop, but in order to give a +twist to the worsted, put it in under the side furthest from you, and +knit it off. + + +NARROWING. + +This is decreasing the number of stitches, by simply knitting two +together. + + +SLIPPING A STITCH. + +This is merely taking the stitch or loop off one pin upon the other +without knitting it. + + +FINISHING OFF. + +In finishing off a piece of knitting, knit two stitches from off the +left hand pin, upon the right, and then with the left pin, take up the +first stitch and put it over the second, slipping it off the pin at the +same time, so as only to leave the second stitch upon it. Knit a third +stitch, and slip the second loop over it also off the pin, and so on +till the last stitch or loop remains on the left hand pin, and none on +the right; when, after breaking off the worsted, pass the end through +the loop and draw it up, and the whole is completed. + +Observe, in finishing off, not to pull the worsted too tight, as the +end will curl up, and look puckered. + + +WELTING. + +This is usually knit at the tops of stockings, socks, muffatees, &c. +and tends to confine the article to the leg or arm of the wearer, from +its tendency to contract. + +Knit three or more plain stitches, and the same number of turn stitches +alternately for several rows, observing always to knit one row or bout +exactly to correspond with the other, so that the welts or ribs are +regular. + + +BINDING. + +In binding, or joining two stitches together, as for instance, in the +heel of the stocking, lay the two pins together in one hand, and with a +third pin knit a stitch, first off one pin and then off another, after +which, put the first knit stitch over the second, slipping it off the +pin as in fastening off, already described. Continue knitting a fresh +stitch to it, first from one pin and slipping the loop over it, and +then from the other. Pass the worsted through the last loop and the +whole is completed. + +There are many terms used in knitting which ought to be familiar to all +knitters, as they are constantly introduced into knitting receipts. + +The following will be described, but there are probably many more +peculiar to different counties. + + A Row is one line or length of knitting. + A Rib is two rows, or a row forwards and backwards, and is + sometimes called a turn. + A Bout is one round of knitting, as in stockings. + A Welt is that part ribbed at the top of the leg of the stocking. + A Seam is that open line in a stocking, formed by a continuation + of turn stitches. + + +FANCY STITCHES. + +The following are the various fancy stitches commonly employed by +knitters for useful articles:— + + No. 1. Double knitting. + 2. Another ditto. + 3. Another ditto. + 4. Open hem. + 5. Honey-comb stitch. + 6. French stitch. + 7. Fantail stitch. + 8. Imitation net-work stitch. + 9. Open cross-stitch. + 10. Insertion-work, or Berlin wire. + 11. Plain open stitch. + 12. The crow’s-foot stitch. + 13. The chain stitch. + 14. The embossed hexicon stitch. + 15. The common plat. + 16. The elastic rib. + 17. The rough-cast, or huckaback stitch. + 18. The embossed diamond stitch. + 19. The ornamental ladder. + 20. Imitation double knitting. + 21. The knit herring-bone stitch. + 22. The purse stitch. + 23. The lace wave stitch. + 24. The herring-bone bag stitch. + 25. An improved open stitch. + 26. The shawl stitch. + 27. The cross-stitch pattern. + 28. The curb stitch. + 29. The two coloured rib-stitch. + 30. A beautiful diamond stitch. + 31. The raised French stitch. + 32. The two coloured chain stitch. + 33. The rug stitch. + 34. The nondescript. + 35. A new stitch + 36. The new muffatee stitch. + +KNIT FRINGES. + + No. 1. Fringe. + 2. Fringe. + 3. Shawl fringe. + 4. A beautiful fringe, and border. + 5. A very pretty fringe. + 6. Fringe for curtains. + + +No. 1. + +DOUBLE KNITTING. + +This is very suitable for blankets, coverlets, comforters, socks, +sleeves, ruffs, shawls, &c. There are three kinds of double knitting; +the first is as follows:— + + Put on an even number of stitches, + Knit a few plain rows, + + Then begin a fresh row as follows:— + + Knit a stitch, + Pass the worsted between the needles in front; + Take off a stitch, putting the needle inside the loop; + Pass the worsted back again, + Knit another stitch, as before, and so on. + + +No. 2. + +DOUBLE KNITTING. + +Another mode is as follows:— + + Put on an even number of stitches, + Knit the first stitch plain, putting the worsted twice over the pin, + Pass the worsted between the needles before, + Slip a stitch, + Pass the worsted behind again. + Again knit a stitch, putting the wool twice over the pin, and so on. + +In the next row, knit those stitches that were slipped, and slip those +which were before knit. + +It is advisable to knit the first three or four stitches plain in every +row, as it confines it down neatly at the sides. + + +No. 3. + +DOUBLE KNITTING. + +This is worked on the wrong side, and is particularly simple, and +far quicker work than the former method, but, as when completed, it +requires turning inside out, it must be knit with plain knitting at the +ends or sides, which to some, is an objection. + + Set on an even number of stitches, + Proceed at once, without knitting a plain row, + Put the worsted in front of the pins before beginning to knit, + observing always to keep it so. + Turn the first stitch, + Take off the second stitch, and so on throughout. + + +No. 4. + +OPEN HEM. + +Use very fine pins and sewing cotton, + + Set on any number of stitches, divisable by four, + Slip the first stitch at the beginning of each row, + Knit the second stitch, + Put the cotton over the pin, to make a stitch; + Knit two loops together, + Continue by knitting the next stitch, + Making a stitch, &c. &c., as before. + + +No. 5. + +HONEY-COMB STITCH. + +This is very applicable for shawls, purses, muffatees, and other fancy +articles. + + Knit the first stitch, + Put the cotton over the pin, to make a loop, + Knit two stitches together, + Continue making a loop, and knitting two stitches together, + till the row is completed. + Knit the second row plain, and so on, every other row + honeycomb-stitch. + + +No. 6. + +FRENCH STITCH. + +Set on the stitches in fours, leaving two over. + + Turn the first stitch, + Turn the thread back, + Knit two stitches together, + Bring the thread in front, + Knit a stitch, thus forming a new loop, + Bring the thread again in front, + Turn a stitch, one rib or pattern is then complete. + +Begin the next in a similar manner, by turning the thread back, and +knitting two together at the end of the row, turn the thread, and knit +the last stitch. + + +No. 7. + +FAN-TAIL STITCH. + +This is very suitable for gloves, mits, purses, &c. + + Set on fourteen loops, + Make a loop, by putting the cotton over the pin, + Knit a loop, + Make a loop, and so on, + Knit each of the two last plain, + + +Then narrow at the second and third stitches, both at the beginning +and ending of each row, until it is reduced to the original number of +fourteen stitches. + + +No. 8. + +IMITATION NET-WORK STITCH. + +Set on any even number of stitches you please. + +Knit a row plain, + +Commence the next row by putting the free pin on the wool, and twisting +the wool round it, by bringing it from behind over the pin, and putting +it behind again, then knit two loops together, putting the pin into +the one nearest to you first, then twist the wool round the pin in the +manner described above; knit two together, and so on to the end. Every +succeeding row is knit in the same manner. + + +No. 9. + +OPEN CROSS-STITCH. + +This is generally knit with two colours (suppose blue and brown); each +colour is worked along two rows alternately. In changing colours, +observe that the fresh colour crosses from under the last one, which +prevents its leaving a hole. + +The first row of each colour is turn-stitched the whole way, and the +second row of each colour is worked as follows:— + + Knit a stitch, + Make a stitch, + Slip a stitch, + Knit two stitches together, + +Draw the slipped loop over the two knit loops. Continue to the end of +the row, and then commence two rows with the fresh colour. + +This is a very suitable stitch for a shawl-handkerchief, round which, +another pattern of knitting should be made. + + +No. 10. + +INSERTION-WORK, OR BERLIN WIRE STITCH. + +If knit with fine thread, and finest needles, it forms beautiful +insertion-work for collars, capes, frocks, &c. + +If knit with large pins, and lamb’s wool, it is useful for comforters +and shawls, and looks very pretty. + + Set on an even number of stitches, + + (If for insertion-work, eight, every four stitches forms one pattern.) + + Knit three plain rows or more, + Take off the first stitch, + Knit a stitch, + Knit off two together, + Make a stitch, + Again knit a stitch, + Knit off two together, + Make a stitch, and knit the last stitch, + and so on to the end of the row, + + Every alternate row should be knit plain. + + +No. 11. + +PLAIN OPEN STITCH. + + Set on an even number of stitches. + Knit two plain rows; then, + Knit the first stitch, + Pass the worsted in front, + Knit two together, thus forming a new stitch, + Again bring the worsted in front, + Knit two together, thus forming a new one, + And so on, till the last stitch, which is knit; + Knit two more rows, and so on. + +This is very suitable for shawls and caps. + + +No. 12. + +THE CROW’S-FOOT STITCH. + +This is very suitable for shawls, in which case, it should be begun at +one of the corners, and added to at every row. + +Otherwise set on any number of stitches divisible by three, allowing +one over, to begin with. + + After knitting one plain row, begin the pattern as follows:— + Knit the first stitch, + Make a stitch, + Slip a stitch, + Knit two plain stitches, + Put the slipped stitch over the two plain ones, + Again make a stitch, + Slip a stitch, and so continue to the end. + +For the next row, turn every stitch. + + +No. 13. + +CHAIN-STITCH. + + Set on thirteen loops, + Knit two plain rows, + Knit three stitches plain, + Bring the worsted in front, + Turn seven stitches, + Turn the worsted back, and knit the remaining three stitches, + Knit the next row plain, + Continue as above, till you have knit in all sixteen rows; + Next knit three stitches plain, + Take off the four next stitches upon a third pin, + Knit the next three stitches from behind the third pin, so as + entirely to miss it, drawing the worsted very tight, so + as to connect the pins close together; + Then, knit the four stitches off the third pin, and the twist is + completed. Knit the remaining three and begin to form a fresh + link, by knitting three stitches, + Turning seven, + Knitting three, and so on; making sixteen more rows before you + twist again. + + +No. 14. + +THE EMBOSSED HEXAGON STITCH. + +Set on any number of stitches, divisable by six, + + Knit a row plain, + Turn a row, + Knit a row plain, + Knit four stitches, and slip two to the end of the row, + Turn a row, slipping the stitches that were slipped in + the preceding row, + Knit a row, still slipping the two stitches, + Turn a row, slipping the same two stitches, + Knit a row, slipping the two stitches, + Turn a row, slipping the same stitches, + Turn a row, taking up every stitch, + Knit a row plain, + Turn a row. + +Commence the next pattern by turning a row, slipping the fifth and +sixth stitches, taking care that the slipped loops come in the centre +of the previous pattern, continue alternately knitting and turning a +row, remembering to slip the two stitches, till you have done six rows, +when knit a row, taking up every stitch and so on. + + +No. 15. + +THE COMMON PLAT. + +This is very pretty for coverlets, muffatees, &c. + + Set on any number of stitches in threes. + After knitting a plain row, begin as follows:— + +1st Row. Knit three plain, and turn three all along. + +2nd Row. The same as above, observing to continue from where you left +off in the last row, so that if the row ended in turning, you should +begin with plain stitches and so on. + +3rd Row. Observe as above. + +These three rows form a succession of squares, of alternate inside and +outside knitting. + +4th Row. As the work of the squares should now cross or sit alternately +with those above, like the squares of a chess-board, the first three +stitches should be the same as those with which the last row is +completed. + +Continue turning and knitting plain every alternate three stitches, and +varying the squares every three rows, till the whole is completed. + + +No. 16. + +THE ELASTIC RIB. + +This is very suitable for cuffs and garters, as it clings or contracts +to the form. + + Set on any number of stitches, + Knit a row, + Turn a row, + Knit two rows, + Turn a row, + Continue knitting two, and turning one row to the end of the work. + + +No. 17. + +THE ROUGH-CAST, OR, HUCKABACK STITCH. + + Set on any uneven number of stitches. + Knit plain and turn stitch alternately, observing to begin every + row with the plain stitch. + This is very pretty, and firm, and suitable for borders. + + +No. 18. + +THE EMBOSSED DIAMOND. + + Set on any number of stitches, divisable by seven, + Knit a row plain. + Turn a stitch, then knit five, and turn two alternately to the end, + Knit two, then turn three, and knit four, alternately to the end, + Turn three, then knit one, and turn six alternately, + Knit a row plain. + Turn two, and then knit two, and turn five alternately, + Knit two, then turn four, and knit three alternately, + Knit six, and turn one alternately, + Knit one, and turn six alternately, + Knit five, then turn three, and knit four alternately, + Knit three, then turn two, and knit five alternately, + Knit a row plain. + + +No. 19. + +THE ORNAMENTAL LADDER STITCH. + + Set on your stitches in elevens, + Knit two plain stitches, + Knit two together, again knit two together, draw the first loop + over the second, knit one plain, and then knit two together, + knit two more together, draw the first loop over second, + knit one plain, and so on to the end. + +In the second row, turn two, pass the thread twice over the pin, turn +two, and so on. + +In the third row, knit two, pass the thread twice round the pin, knit +two, and so on. + +Continue alternately knitting one row and turning one, till it is the +length required, observing always to slip the loops, formed by passing +the thread twice round the pin off, without knitting them. + + +No. 20. + +IMITATION DOUBLE KNITTING. + + Set on any even number of stitches. + Turn a stitch, and knit a stitch alternately. + +As the stitch that was knit before is now to be turned, commence every +row with a turn stitch; this makes both sides alike, and though single, +gives it the appearance of double knitting. + + +No. 21. + +THE KNIT HERRING-BONE STITCH. + +Set on any number of stitches, allowing three stitches for each +pattern, and one besides at each end. + + Knit a plain row, + Take off the first loop, + Knit two stitches together in turn stitch, + Make a stitch by passing the wool before, and knitting one, + Turn two stitches together, + Again make and knit a stitch, and so on, + Every row is begun and continued the same. + + +No. 22. + +THE PURSE STITCH. + + Set on ninety or an hundred stitches, + Knit the first stitch, + Make a stitch by putting the silk over the pin, + Slip a stitch, + Knit a stitch, + Turn the slipped stitch over the knit one, + Repeat this till the row is finished, + Knit the next row in turn stitch, + Repeat as above, alternately knitting a row in turn stitch, + till the whole is completed. + + +No. 23. + +THE LACE WAVE STITCH. + + Set on an even number of stitches, + Slip the first stitch, + Knit a stitch, + Make a stitch (by putting the cotton over the pin), + Knit two stitches together to narrow, + Again knit a stitch, + Make a stitch, and narrow till the row is complete, + Knit the next row plain, + Next row, knit two plain stitches, make a stitch, + narrow two stitches in one, knit a stitch, make + a stitch, and narrow to the end of the row, + Next row, knit plain, + Next row, knit three plain stitches, and continue as above, + by making a stitch, narrowing two stitches in one, + and knitting a stitch, + Next row, knit plain, + Next row, knit four stitches, and continue as above, + by making one, narrowing two, and knitting one stitch. + Next row, knit plain, + Next row, knit five stitches plain, and do as above, + Knit two rows plain. + This forms one wave or pattern. + +Continue as above to any length required; this, knit with fine thread, +forms beautiful lace for night-cap borders. + + +No. 24. + +THE HERRING-BONE BAG STITCH. + + Set on your stitches by fours, + Knit two plain stitches, + Turn the silk twice over the pin to make a long stitch, + Knit two stitches together, + Repeat this till the whole is finished. + + +No. 25. + +AN IMPROVED OPEN STITCH. + + Knit the first row plain, + Knit the second row like the usual open stitch, + by knitting the first stitch, putting the worsted + in front, to make a stitch, and knitting two stitches + together, and so on; + Next knit one row plain, + Turn-stitch three rows, and + Knit one row plain, + +This is particularly suitable for muffatees, bags, and reticules. + + +No. 26. + +THE SHAWL STITCH. + +This is very suitable for shawls, caps, and handkerchiefs, knit with +soft wool, and large pins, and for mittens, with fine black thread or +silk, and is done as follows:— + + Set on an even number of stitches, + Knit the second row in the Hole-stitch, + the next row in Turn-stitch, and so on. + + +No. 27. + +THE CROSS-STITCH PATTERN. + +This is very suitable for bags, purses, gentlemen’s caps, &c. + + Set on an even number of stitches, + Put the wool over the pin, and make a stitch, + Put the needle into two stitches, and knit them backwards, + and so on. + Observe to throw the wool properly over the pin, as, if wrongly + twisted, it is apt to make two stitches. + + +No. 28. + +THE CURB STITCH. + + Set on an even number of stitches, + Knit a plain row, + + Next row, knit the first stitch, after which continue as follows:— + + Bring the wool in front, turn a stitch, put the wool back, + knit a stitch, putting the wool twice over the pin. + Observe, in the next row, the long stitch is the turned stitch. + + +No. 29. + +THE TWO COLOURED RIBBED STITCH. + +This is a very pretty stitch for cuffs, mits, or muffatees, and should +be done in two colours, or one colour with white. + + Set on an even number of stitches, and continue knitting, + letting every other stitch be of one colour, and the + alternate loops of the other. + Observe, in crossing the worsteds, always to keep the + white wool uppermost. + + +No. 30. + +A BEAUTIFUL DIAMOND STITCH. + + Set on the stitches in threes, and one over, + Slip off the first stitch. Then knit all along as follows, + always keeping the wool in front, + Slip one stitch, holding the loop, as if going to turn-stitch, + Put the wool over the pin, to make a loop, + Knit two turn stitches in one. + Next row, it is to be turn-stitched all the way, excepting that + the formed stitch of the last row is always to be slipped, + taking hold of it as in turning. + +After the beginning of this alternate row, there will be always two +single turn stitches, and one slipped stitch all along. + + +No. 31. + +THE RAISED FRENCH STITCH. + + Set on an even number of stitches, + Turn the wool over the pin to make a stitch, + Knit two together, and so on to the end of the row: + Next row, turn-stitch the whole way, + Next row, knit plain, + Next row, turn-stitch, making in all three plain rows; + Repeat the whole as above. + +If this is for a shawl, increase one stitch at two loops from the end +of the needle, always at the same place, once in every rib. + + +No. 32. + +THE TWO COLOURED CHAIN STITCH. + +This is a very pretty stitch, and is suitable for muffatees, bags, and +mats. It is knit with two wools, coloured and white, and is done as +follows:— + +Set on the required number of stitches, and knit in the coloured wool +alternately with the white. To form the chain-like appearance, observe +to cross the wool, with which the loop is being knit, over the wool of +the last loop. Observe to knit off the white loops with the coloured +wool, and the coloured loops with the white wool. + + +No. 33. + +THE RUG STITCH. + +This is knit with fine pins and worsted of a common kind, and the rug +or woolly part is composed of soft thick wool. + +Set on any number of stitches, and knit one plain row, after which, +begin with the wool, knitting first one plain stitch, and then pass the +wool between the pins, round the second or third finger, according to +the depth required, and in front between the pins. Knit another plain +stitch, and again carry the wool between the pins, round the fingers in +front, and make another stitch, and so on to the end of the row, when +cut off the wool, and knit the row back with the worsted, which secures +the fringe. + +Lay the wool between the pins again, after knitting the first plain +stitch, and continue as before, making a loop of fringe between each +plain stitch, and so on. After knitting the number of rows required, +cut the fringe and open the wool as much as possible, taking care not +to pull it out. + + +No. 34. + +THE NONDESCRIPT. + + Set on any number of stitches, knit as follows, + always slipping the first stitch; + Make a stitch, by putting the wool over the pin, + Knit a stitch; + Next row, knit two stitches together all along the pin; + Continue as above. + + +No. 35. + +A NEW STITCH. + + Set on any number of stitches, + Put the wool over the pin to make a stitch, + Turn a stitch, and so on: + Next row, turn-stitch, taking two loops at + once the whole way. + + +No. 36. + +THE NEW MUFFATEE STITCH. + + Set on any even number of stitches, + Slip the first stitch, then knit as follows:— + + Put the wool in front of the pin, then take up a loop + of the former row on the pin, then turn a stitch, + take up a loop as before, turn a stitch as before, + and so on; + Next row, turn-stitch all along, taking two loops at once. + + +No. 1. + +FRINGE. + + Set on eight stitches, + Knit a plain round, + Slip the first loop, + +Double the wool, and put the knot over the pin; knit two loops, put +the wool behind, knit one, bring it in front, knit two, turn it +behind, and knit one; turn it again in front, and knit the last loop, +then knit a plain row. In the third row, slip the first loop, put the +little finger of the left hand through the fringe, and pass the wool +for the next loop, round the finger also, then turn it over the pin, +and knit the row as before. + + +No. 2. + +ANOTHER FRINGE. + +This is very suitable for doyleys and pincushion covers; in which case, +it must be knit with cotton. + + Set on twelve stitches, + Knit a stitch, + Make a stitch, by putting the cotton over the pin, + Knit two stitches in one, + Continue this till the row is finished. + +Proceed onwards until a strip of sufficient length is made to go round +the doyley or article for which it is intended. Then fasten off six of +the stitches, letting the other six drop off your pins, and unrove it +down the whole length of the strip, to form the fringe. Sew it on with +coarse white cotton. + + +No. 3. + +A SHAWL FRINGE. + + Cast on five stitches, + Slip off the first stitch, + Knit the second stitch, + Make a stitch, + Knit two stitches together, + +At the last stitch, twist the cotton three times over the pin and the +second finger, or over the pin and a mesh of the proper depth of the +fringe, and knit it firmly on. Let every alternate row be plain. + + +No. 4. + +A BEAUTIFUL FRINGE AND BORDER. + +Set on an even number of stitches of any depth sufficient to allow for +the fringe, and for the head of the fringe, and knit thus:— + +Make a stitch, by laying the wool over the needle. Put the needle in +two loops, and knit them in one, just contrary to the usual way. + +Continue thus, row after row, until a strip of sufficient length is +done. Fasten off, letting four, six, eight, or ten stitches drop off +the pin to unrove for the fringe. + + +No. 5. + +A VERY PRETTY FRINGE, + +For mats, handkerchiefs, mits, &c. + +Use fine pins and common worsted for knitting the fringe, which should +be of thick handsome wool. + +Set on as many stitches as are required for the length of the piece of +fringe. + + Knit one plain row, + Next row, knit one stitch, + +Lay the wool (either singly, or doubly, or even trebly, if required +very full) between the pins, from the front towards the back, round the +second or third finger, according to the depth required, and back again +through the pins in front. Knit the next stitch, and again carry the +wool behind round the fingers, to make another loop of fringe, and when +brought forward between the pins, make another stitch and so on, to the +end of the row, after which, knit a plain row back, to secure it more +firmly, knitting alternately with the wool and worsted, fastening off +as you go along. + + +No 6. + +FRINGE FOR CURTAINS. + +This is a useful and very pretty fringe for toilet tables, curtains, +pincushions, &c., and is made of cotton, wool, worsted, silk, or any +other material; the first, however, is more useful, because it washes +well. + + Set on ten stitches, and knit every row as follows:— + Slip the first stitch, + Knit the next stitch, + Put the cotton over the pin twice, + Turn two stitches together, + Turn the cotton back, + +Put the cotton or wool, for the fringe, over the pin, leaving the ends +behind. Knit one stitch, turn the wool in front, knit two stitches, +turn the wool behind, knit two stitches, again bring the wool in front, +and knit the remaining stitch. Knit a row plain, taking the wool with +the stitch when you come to it, to make it quite firm. + +The fringe should be cut in pieces of the proper length, and three or +four taken together, to be knit in at once. + + +STOCKINGS. + +Knit stockings are considered so much better than woven ones for +wear, that it is advisable for all servants, cottagers and labourers +invariably to adopt them, as the former will last out three or more of +the woven, which are more suitable for the higher classes. + +The children of the poor should always be taught to knit, and each +member of a family ought to have a stocking in hand to take up at idle +moments, by which means many pairs might be completed in the year. +It is difficult to make very correct scales for different sized knit +stockings, as so much depends on the quality of the worsted and of the +pins, as also on the knitter, as some persons work much slacker than +others, so that two stockings knit with the same pins and worsted, may +be of very different sizes when knit by different persons. + +The following proportion for a general rule is good, and may prove +useful, though to tolerably experienced knitters, it is recommended to +procure a pair of stockings that fit very well, and to knit others like +them, which can easily be done by means of constantly measuring and +comparing them with the pattern. + + +GENERAL PROPORTIONS FOR STOCKINGS. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 21. + + Ascertain the proper breadth of the stocking. + From the top to the bend of the knee is one square, + or the length of the breadth. + From the bend of the knee to the beginning of the calf + is one square or breadth. + From the beginning to the end of the calf, is one square + or breadth.[2] + +[2] In this square, we narrow as many stitches as are contained on +_one_ of our three pins, narrowing always twice on the same row, +placing one of them on each side of the seam stitch. We calculate +the number of rows intervening between each narrowing, by dividing +_half_ the number of stitches contained on one pin, with the number of +stitches contained on the three, and abide by the result. + +For the small of the leg, one square or breadth; for the heel, half a +square; for the narrowing on each side of the instep, one quarter of +a square; from the heel to the narrowing of the toe, one and a half +square; for the narrowing, a quarter of a square. + +Observe, that the squares always relate to the breadth of the stocking, +at the time the next square is begun. + +In making up stockings, see that the pins and worsted are suitable to +each other; observe also to knit regularly, and let but one person knit +each pair, otherwise they will not match or look well. + +Stockings are knit with four pins, three of which hold the stitches, +and the fourth serves to knit with. + +After setting on the number of stitches required, dividing them equally +on the three pins (always observing, however, that one pin has an +uneven number), commence knitting round and round, according to the +scale, taking care always to make the middle or odd stitch in the one +pin a turn-stitch, which forms a kind of seam down the stocking, and +serves as a guide, by which the place of narrowing is more easily +ascertained. + +After welting several rounds or bouts, continue knitting and widening, +or narrowing, according to the scale, observing to widen or narrow +invariably on each side, within one loop of the seam-stitch. + +For a description of welting, widening, narrowing, binding, &c., refer +to knitting stitches and terms. + +After knitting the heel and foot, the stitches are put upon two pins +instead of three, and the narrowing begun and continued; after which it +is fastened off, and the stocking completed. + + +SCALE FOR STOCKINGS. + +Observe these are the proper proportions for stockings, when knit with +coarse worsted and pins. + + +------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+ + | |Child|Child|Child|Child|Child | + | |of 4 |of 6 |of 9 |of 12|of 14 | + | | | | | | | + +------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+ + |Stitches on each pin, allowing one | | | | | | + |extra for the seam-stitch in the | 16 | 18 | 20 | 25 | 30 | + |middle of one pin | | | | | | + +------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+ + |Stitches altogether, including the | 49 | 55 | 61 | 76 | 91 | + |seam stitch | | | | | | + +------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+ + |Knit rows for welting | 8 | 8 | 8 | 10 | 10 | + |Plain rows, or two squares | 49 | 55 | 61 | 76 | 91 | + +------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+ + |Number of double narrowings, one | | | | | | + |on each side of the seam-stitch, | 8 | 9 | 10 | 12 | 15 | + |at three rows between | | | | | | + +------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+ + |Stitches altogether | 33 | 37 | 41 | 51 | 61 | + |Plain rows to the heel | 16 | 18 | 20 | 25 | 30 | + |Stitches upon one pin for the heel | 17 | 19 | 21 | 27 | 31 | + |Knit rows for the heel | 9 | 10 | 11 | 13 | 16 | + +------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+ + |Narrowings on each side the seam | 2 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 3 | + |stitch, at one row between | | | | | | + +------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+ + |Bind down the heel | | | | | | + |Pick up loops on each side of the | 9 | 10 | 11 | 13 | 16 | + |seam-stitch | | | | | | + +------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+ + |Widen one row every third stitch on | 4 | 5 | 5 | 6 | 8 | + |each side of the heel | | | | | | + +------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+ + |Narrow at the two corners of the | 24 | 27 | 30 | 37 | 45 | + |heel, at one row between | | | | | | + +------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+ + |Knit off plain rows | | | | | | + |Put half the stitches on one pin and| | | | | | + |half on the other, and narrow till | 6 | 8 | 8 | 10 | 10 | + |there are stitches left on each pin | | | | | | + |Bind down and fasten off | | | | | | + +------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+ + | |Child|Child| Man’s | Man’s| + | |of 16|of 18| Small or |Large.| + | | | | Woman’s | | + +------------------------------------|-----+-----+-----------+------+ + |Stitches on each pin, allowing one | | | | | + |extra for the seam-stitch in the | 33 | 35 | 42 | 45 | + |middle of one pin | | | | | + +------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+ + |Stitches altogether, including the | 100 | 106 | 127 | 136 | + |seam stitch | | | | | + +------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+ + |Knit rows for welting | 12 | 16 | 20 | 24 | + |Plain rows, or two squares | 100 | 106 | 127 | 136 | + +------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+ + |Number of double narrowings, one | | | | | + |on each side of the seam-stitch, | 16 | 17 | 21 | 22 | + |at three rows between | | | | | + +------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+ + |Stitches altogether | 67 | 71 | 85 | 91 | + |Plain rows to the heel | 33 | 35 | 42 | 45 | + |Stitches upon one pin for the heel | 35 | 37 | 43 | 47 | + |Knit rows for the heel | 18 | 19 | 22 | 24 | + +------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+ + |Narrowings on each side the seam | 3 | 4 | 4 | 4 | + |stitch, at one row between | | | | | + +------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+ + |Bind down the heel | | | | | + |Pick up loops on each side of the | 18 | 19 | 22 | 24 | + |seam-stitch | | | | | + +------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+ + |Widen one row every third stitch on | 9 | 9 | 11 | 12 | + |each side of the heel | | | | | + +------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+ + |Narrow at the two corners of the | 49 | 52 | 63 | 67 | + |heel, at one row between | | | | | + +------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+ + |Knit off plain rows | | | | | + |Put half the stitches on one pin and| | | | | + |half on the other, and narrow till | 11 | 11 | 12 | 12 | + |there are stitches left on each pin | | | | | + |Bind down and fasten off | | | | | + +------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----------+------+ + + +SOCKS. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 22. + +Socks are often worn by men and boys of all classes, and are made +similarly to the stockings, excepting that the knitter begins +immediately after the two squares knit for stockings; welting, of +course, several bouts. + + +GARTERS. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 33. + +These are chiefly worn by females, and are merely narrow strips of +knitting, of three-quarters of a yard long, and a nail, more or less, +wide. + +They are made of worsted, cotton, or soft wool; the latter is most +elastic and pleasant. + +For garters, set on from twelve to twenty, or even thirty stitches, +according to the fineness of the material. + +Knit backwards and forwards till of the proper length, when fasten off. +Some persons prefer a loop at the end; for which purpose, when near +the end, divide the stitches equally upon two pins, and knit each pin +about ten ribs, after which connect them together by binding them in +fastening off. + +Garters are sometimes knit by putting the material, which is fine, +twice round the pin at every stitch, letting the pin be very thick. + +Garters are sometimes ribbed, at others knit, in a succession of +squares of different patterns. + + +BABYS’ SOCKS. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 24. + + Set on thirty loops. Knit three ribs. + Narrow each end. Knit three ribs. + Narrow each end. Knit three ribs. + Narrow each end. Knit one row plain. + +There are now eleven ribs and twenty-four loops on your pin. Put twelve +on another pin, and add fourteen. Knit three ribs, and narrow at the +toe. Knit three ribs, narrow at the toe. Knit three ribs, narrow at the +toe. Narrow at the heel every other row three times. There ought to be +thirteen ribs. Add fourteen loops to the twelve left on the other pin, +and do the same. Join the two together and sew up the sock. + + +BABYS’ SOCKS, ANOTHER KIND. + +Set on twenty-four stitches. Widen at the beginning of each row, till +there are twenty-eight stitches. Knit ten ribs, narrow at the heel, +twice at one end. Take twelve on one pin and add twelve, make another +side the same, and fasten off. Add fourteen stitches to the twelve that +were left, widen each end every rib till there are thirty. Knit ten +ribs and fasten off. + + +BABYS’ SOCKS OR BOOTS. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 25. + + Set on twenty-two stitches. + Knit three ribs, widening at the beginning and end of each rib. + Knit five ribs, widening at the toe end of each rib. + Stitches altogether, thirty-three. + Knit three plain ribs, + Take off eleven stitches from the toe end upon one pin, and + fasten off the rest. + Knit six ribs, widening every rib at the toe, + Knit six ribs, narrowing every rib at the toe, + Add twenty-two stitches to the eleven already on the pin, + making thirty-three. + Knit three plain ribs, + Knit five ribs, narrowing at the end of each rib, + Knit three ribs, narrowing at the beginning and end of each rib, + and fasten off. + This forms the shoe part of the sock, and is knit of some pretty + colour, as green or blue. + For the sock or upper part, pick up twelve stitches from the front + or top of the shoe, and knit with white wool. + Knit nine ribs, connecting it with the sides, by picking up the + stitches at each edge, as you knit along + Pick up the remaining coloured stitches on each side, + Knit three plain ribs, and then one row widened at the beginning + and end alternately, for four times; + Then knit two ribs, after which, one rib more of coloured work, + and fasten off, + Sew up the seams, and the sock is completed. + + +BABYS’ SOCKS, OR SLIPPERS. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 26, 27. + +This is a very pretty kind of sock, and from being worn in two colours +with a kind of sandal, resembles slippers worn over stockings. + + Set on twenty stitches of coloured wool, + Widen one at the beginning and end of each rib, four times, + Widen at the beginning, or toe end of each rib, for two ribs, + Knit two plain ribs, + Knit nine stitches at the toe end, and fasten off the + remaining ones, + Knit the nine stitches, two ribs plain, + Widen at the beginning, or toe end of the three next ribs, + Knit three plain ribs, + Narrow at the beginning, or toe end of the next three ribs, + Knit two plain ribs, + Knit the next row, which should consist of nine stitches, + and add twenty-one stitches, + Knit two plain ribs, + Narrow at the toe end of each rib, for two more ribs, + Narrow at the beginning and end of each rib, for four times, + and fasten off, + Pick up thirteen stitches, in the front of the boot, + Knit eight plain stitches in white wool, + Widen at the beginning, and end of the next rib, + Knit one plain rib, + Pick up the stitches on both sides at the top of the boot + on the same pin, + Knit two plain ribs in coloured wool, and continue afterwards + in white wool, + Narrow at the beginning and end of the next rib, + Knit two plain ribs, + Widen at the beginning, and end of the next rib, + Knit three plain ribs, + Widen at the beginning, and end of the next rib, + Knit three plain ribs, + Knit another rib in coloured wool, fasten off, and put a little + ribbon bow in front of the boot. + Sew or lace up the square in front of the boot all round. + + +CHILD’S LONG SOCK. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 28. + +This may be knit either of two colours, or entirely of white. + + Set on thirty-four stitches, + Knit sixteen rows, turning every other stitch to form a welt, + Knit one rib of coloured wool and two of white, alternately + four times, + Knit two ribs white, + Take fifteen stitches on one pin, and add fifteen stitches, + Knit twelve plain ribs in coloured wool, + Knit three ribs, narrowing at the beginning and end of each row, + and fasten off; + Take up the fifteen stitches which project beyond the leg, + and which form the top or front of the boot, + Knit twelve plain ribs, + Knit three plain ribs, narrowing at the beginning and end + of each row, and fasten off. + +The loose slit in front must be connected to the shoe part, by knitting +two stitches in the centre, forming a hole on each side, through which +the ribbon is drawn. Sew up the sock and it is completed. Sometimes the +boot has a little white intermixed with the colour; in which case, the +coloured wool is simply laid inside, and brought forward when wanted. + + +CHILD’S FIRST STOCKING OR SOCK. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 29, 30. + +This is commonly made with fine cotton, letting two rows be knit in +stocking, and one in garter or turn-stitch, alternately the whole way. + + Set on twenty-two stitches to each of three pins, + Knit round and round for fifty-four rows, + Put thirty-three stitches on one pin for the heel, + Knit thirty-three rows, and bind the heel, + Pick up the remaining stitches, so as to have + twenty-two again on each pin, + Narrow once at each end of the heel for five rows, + Knit seventy-three rows, + Bind down the toe and fasten off. + + +THE RIBBED BOOT. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 31. + + Set on twenty stitches on each of the three pins, + Knit a square, + Put thirty stitches on one pin, and the remaining thirty + on another pin, + Continue knitting the thirty stitches on the pin for the instep, + towards the toe, which is generally about two squares, + Then narrow at each end till but five stitches remain on the pin, + then fasten off; + Next, take the other thirty stitches, and knit a square for the heel + and fasten off; + Knit two gores to put in between the front and heel on each side, + for which purpose, + Set on twenty stitches, and narrow at the beginning of every other + row till it ends in a point, + Set in the gores, + Next, make a sole by setting on fourteen stitches, or any number, + according to the width of the + foot. Knit it straight along, till of a sufficient length, + Sew the sole upon the boot, and the whole is complete. + This boot is generally ribbed by knitting two stitches and + turning two. + + +THE OVER SHOE. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 32. + +This is very convenient to slip over a satin shoe, or as a house shoe. + + Set on thirty-four stitches. + Knit a plain square, double it, and sew it up one side + to form the heel; sew up about three inches to form + the instep, and pucker in the end for the toe. + + +THE SNOW-HEEL. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 33. + +This is very useful in slippery weather for persons to put over their +shoe or boot heels, to prevent their falling. It is particularly good +for old people and children. + + Set on sixty-six stitches on one pin, + Knit five ribs, + Finish off four stitches on each side, and continue knitting + the middle part, + Knit fourteen ribs, + Knit twenty-five stitches, then narrow; knit six, again narrow, + and then knit the remainder. + Continue narrowing every alternate row twice in the row, + reducing the six centre stitches every time, so that at the + sixth narrowing there are none of them left. Fasten off. + + +LITTLE NIGHT BOOTS. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 34. + +These are made by knitting a piece of six nails long, and a nail and a +half or more deep. This, when fastened at the ends, is sewed to a sole, +which is made by knitting an oval piece. + + For this sole, set on about six stitches and knit on, + widening at both ends, till about fifteen stitches + are upon the pin; continue knitting till nearly of + the proper length, and then begin narrowing down to + the six stitches again. Fasten off. + + The sides of the boot are generally ornamented by knitting + four rows of garter-stitch of one colour, and then four + rows of stocking-stitch of another, and so on throughout. + About thirty stitches may be set on the pin. + + +A VERY PRETTY OVER SHOE. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 35. + + Set on thirty-six stitches on each of three pins; + Knit one plain round, after which knit fifty rows (more or less, + according to pleasure) in the welt of three, by which means + it is ribbed up and elastic, and will fit almost any person’s + foot. + If for a child of five or six years old, set on eighteen stitches + to each pin. + + +SOCKS FOR INVALIDS, OR THOSE WHO HAVE COLD FEET. + +These are very useful for those who have cold feet, either to wear in +bed, or slip over the stockings when dressing; and as they set quite +close to the foot and ankle, they give a great deal of warmth. + +They are best made of floss wool of five or six threads, and about two +and a half ounces of wool is sufficient for each pair. Whalebone or +wooden pins are used; they should not be very thick, considerably less +than a drawing pencil. + +For women’s full sized socks cast on thirty-six stitches on three +needles, and knit ten plain rows, then turn the first stitch of the +next row; after this, for the thirty following rows, narrow thus—the +two last loops of the last needle must be knit as one; turn the first +loop of the next row, and take the two next loops off at once, taking +hold of the loops at the back instead of in the usual way. After this +you begin to welt, and the depth of the welting is regulated by fancy. + + +VERY PRETTY KNIT BOOTS. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 36. + +Commonly called Derby jail boots, at which place the female prisoners +are employed in making them. + +SCALE FOR KNIT BOOTS. + + +-------------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+ + | |Child|Child|Child| + | ———————— |of 8 |of 10|of 12| + +-------------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+ + |Loops set on one pin | 14 | 16 | 18 | + | | | | | + |Widen every rib on one end till the | 17 | 19 | 21 | + | number of loops are | | | | + | | | | | + |Knit plain ribs | 2 | 3 | 3 | + | | | | | + |Narrow every rib on one end, till the | | | | + | number of loops are | 14 | 16 | 18 | + | | | | | + |Number of loops to be added, half of which | | | | + | are to be set on the pin with the | | | | + | stitches already on, and the other half| | | | + | on a fresh pin immediately joining it | 20 | 22 | 24 | + | | | | | + |Pick up the stitches on the second pin, | | | | + | which were first set on for the toe | | | | + | | | | | + |Ribs knit for the side of the foot | 7 | 8 | 9 | + | | | | | + |Pick up loops to the toe | | | | + | | | | | + |Ribs for the bottom of the foot | 1 | 2 | 2 | + | | | | | + |Pick up the loops round the ankle, | | | | + | and narrow every rib on the right | | | | + | side three or four stitches from | 10 | 11 | 12 | + | the front of the rows | | | | + | | | | | + |Fasten off | | | | + +-------------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+ + | |Child|Child|Child| | + | ———————— |of 14|of 16|of 18|Woman| + +-------------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+ + |Loops set on one pin | 22 | 24 | 26 | 28 | + | | | | | | + |Widen every rib on one end till the | 26 | 28 | 31 | 33 | + | number of loops are | | | | | + | | | | | | + |Knit plain ribs | 3 | 4 | 4 | 4 | + | | | | | | + |Narrow every rib on one end, till the | | | | | + | number of loops are | 22 | 24 | 26 | 28 | + | | | | | | + |Number of loops to be added, half of which | | | | | + | are to be set on the pin with the | | | | | + | stitches already on, and the other half| | | | | + | on a fresh pin immediately joining it | 28 | 30 | 32 | 34 | + | | | | | | + |Pick up the stitches on the second pin, | | | | | + | which were first set on for the toe | | | | | + | | | | | | + |Ribs knit for the side of the foot | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | + | | | | | | + |Pick up loops to the toe | | | | | + | | | | | | + |Ribs for the bottom of the foot | 2 | 3 | 3 | 4 | + | | | | | | + |Pick up the loops round the ankle, | | | | | + | and narrow every rib on the right | | | | | + | side three or four stitches from | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | + | the front of the rows | | | | | + | | | | | | + |Fasten off | | | | | + +-------------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+ + +These boots may be knit in two wools, white and coloured. They should +have leather soles sewed on, to make them more durable. They should +have fringe, and worsted platted strings. + + +NIGHT SOCKS. + + Coarse lamb’s wool and thick pins. + + Set on thirty-six stitches, knit ten ribs, put eighteen on + one pin, and knit twelve ribs; narrow each rib at the + heel twice, making in all fourteen ribs. The other side + the same. Pick up loops on both the side pieces; for the + toe, knit ten ribs; narrow every rib on each side, so + that the narrowings shall be on the sides of the foot, and + not at the bottom; seven narrowings, and finish in a point. + + +VERY NEAT NIGHT SOCKS. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 37. + + Set forty-six stitches on one pin, + Knit twenty-seven plain ribs, + Add twenty stitches, setting them equally on three pins, + Knit twenty-six plain bouts or rounds, + Divide the stitches, letting half of them lie on one pin, + and the other half equally divided between two pins. + This arrangement makes it easier to knit than on two pins, + and, at the same time, distinctly marks the half for the + two narrowings; + Narrow on each side of the pin with half the stitches. + + +SQUARE NIGHT BOOTS. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 38. + + Set on forty loops, knit the two first stitches plain, + the rest double knitting till it is a square bag; + fasten it off, making it to open at the top; large + pins and coarse; lamb’s wool. + + +KNIT SOLE. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 39. + +This is a sole to put within a shoe or boot, and is made in double +knitting and sewed to a piece of stiff muslin of the proper shape, and +bound all round with ribbon. + +For a good average size, set on fourteen stitches, knit in double +knitting for twenty-three rows, and fasten off. The knitting must be +brought into shape by taking it in with the galloon, when wanted to be +narrowed. + + +KNEE CAP. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 40. + + Set on one pin forty-seven stitches, + Knit plain seventeen ribs, + Next row, knit twenty-three plain stitches, widen, knit a stitch, + widen again, and knit the remaining twenty-three stitches. + Every alternate row, widen at each of the above widenings exactly + in a straight line, so that the increase of stitches falls + in the centre, forming a gore or half diamond. + Knit sixteen plain ribs, + Next row, knit twenty-three plain stitches, narrow, knit + thirty-six stitches, narrow again, knit the remaining + twenty-three stitches. + Every alternate row, narrow in a straight line, over each of + these two narrowings, so as to reduce the stitches between + by degrees to a point again, at the end of thirteen ribs. + Knit thirty-one plain ribs; + Next row, fasten off four stitches, and knit the rest of the row; + knit a plain row; + Next row, fasten off four more stitches, and knit the rest of + the row; knit a plain row; + Next row, same as above, and then fasten off, + and sew up the seams. + + +KNIT GLOVES, LARGE SIZE. + +Put eighteen stitches on a pin, leave about thirteen rows open (by +knitting backwards and forwards instead of round) for the thumb; knit +round till you come to the fingers. Put half the stitches on one pin, +and half on the other. Take nine stitches off each pin for the first +finger, and add eight between the first and second finger to make a +gore, then there will be twenty-six stitches on your pins altogether; +knit two rows plain, narrow every other row at each end of the eight +loops you added, for three times on each side; there should now be +twenty stitches left. Knit plain till the finger is long enough. Then +narrow twice at each end of the finger, leaving one stitch between the +two narrowings on each side. Do this every other row three times, when +there will be eight loops left, divide them on two pins and bind them +down. For the second finger, take six stitches off each pin, and pick +up eleven stitches for a gore, between the second and third fingers. +Knit two rows plain; there should then be thirty-four stitches; narrow +every other row on each side of _both_ the gores three times. There +should then be twenty-two stitches. Finish the finger like the other. +For the third finger, take six stitches off each pin, pick up ten +at the bottom of the last gore, and add ten for the new gore; there +are then thirty-two stitches. Narrow as before, and there should +then be twenty left. For the little finger, pick up ten stitches for +the gore, and the six off the two pins make twenty-two, after the +narrowings there should be sixteen stitches left. For the thumb, pick +up three stitches at the bottom of the hole, and knit backwards and +forwards, picking up an extra stitch each time, till there are sixteen +stitches on a pin, then pick up three at the top, and knit backwards +and forwards till there are eight. Join all together, and knit round; +finish the thumb as the fingers. + + +DRIVING MITS. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 41. + +These are very useful for gentlemen or coachmen, in severe weather, +being double on the out, and single in the inside. + +Set on forty stitches on ivory pins, of thick soft floss wool. Knit +several rows in double knitting until half the muffatee is completed, +when knit the remainder in imitation double knitting, which is not +so clumsy for the palm of the hand, when grasping reins, &c. When +completed, sew it up, leaving a hole of a full nail for the thumb, at +half a nail’s distance from the end. + + +BABY’S MITTENS. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 42. + +Set on twenty stitches on each of three pins, and knit plain one square. + +Knit backwards and forwards along two of the pins, letting every other +row be turn-stitch, for another square, and fasten off. + +Knit the other pin in a similar manner for thirty rows, and fasten off. + +Sew up the hand and thumb, and add a fringe or a ribbon to tie, or, if +preferred, it may be begun with a welt at the wrist. + + +MITTENS. + +Set on twenty-two loops on each of the three pins, welt twenty rows, +knit one row plain, next row alternate _turn and plain_, third row +plain, fourth row alternate _plain and turn_, so that the plain stitch +is over the one that was turned before, and so on till you come to the +beginning of the thumb. Then knit backwards and forwards, leaving a +hole for the thumb. Then knit round again, and finish with a welt. To +make a thumb, pick up three loops at the top of the hole left, and knit +backwards and forwards, picking up an additional loop at the end of +each row, for about ten rows. Then pick up three loops at the bottom of +the hole, and do the same till you meet the stitches at the top. Join +all together and knit round and round till it is long enough; welt five +or six rows and finish. + + +THE KNIT ARMLET. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 43. + +This is very suitable for school girls to wear over their arms, or for +old persons, or people when travelling. They may be made as high as the +elbow, or up to the shoulder. Little children, in severe weather, wear +them over their little naked arms to prevent them from chapping. Fine +black lamb’s wool is most usually worn, in which case, it should be +well steeped in vinegar, and then dried, to prevent the dye coming off. + +For a grown-up person, one hundred stitches will reach to the elbow. +Knit plain, as you would a garter, backwards and forwards, using large +ivory or steel pins. About twenty rows (more or less, according to the +size of the arm) are sufficient. Sew down the whole length, leaving an +opening of about a nail long to admit the thumb, sewing beyond it to +the end, about half a nail or less. When worn, they cling to the hand +and arm, keep them warm, and look particularly neat. + +Some persons prefer them welted at the top and bottom, or ribbed the +whole way. + + +KNIT MUFFATEE. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 44. + +This is made simply by setting on forty stitches, and knitting three +rows plain and three rows turn-stitch, till wide enough, when it is +sewed up, leaving a hole for the thumb. It looks very neat in black or +light grey. Use finest wool and pins. + + +MUFFATEE. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 45. + +This is in plain knitting. + + Set on twenty stitches, + Knit twenty-eight ribs. + +Fringe is sewed on with a carpet needle in a kind of cross-stitch, +being wound over a mesh of the proper width. + + +MUFFATEE. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 26. + +This is extremely pretty, made of the two coloured ribbed stitch, or +the two coloured chain stitch. + +Set on thirty loops, and knit the first and last three loops of every +pin plain knitting, of one colour, to make a kind of border. Continue +this for about twenty-two ribs, when sew up, and either add fringe, or +not, according to pleasure. + + +MUFFATEES. + +Use fine pins and merino wool. Set on seventy four loops, knit six +rows, backwards and forwards, then six rows double knitting, and so on +alternately three times of double, and four of plain; then knit twelve +double, six plain, and finish off. Sew it up. + + +MUFFATEES. + +Set on an even number of stitches (twenty for a child, thirty for a +lady, or fifty for a man) on an ivory pin. + +Knit four, six, or eight stitches plain, according to the above sizes, +and continue the row in imitation double knitting stitch, making as +many plain stitches at the end of the row, as at the beginning. + +Continue knitting backwards and forwards until sufficient is done for +the thickness of the wrist. + +Sew or lace it up, and it is completed. + + +FRILL OR RUFF. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 47. + +These are very soft for children, and are generally knit of two +coloured wools and with ivory pins of a middling thickness. + + Set on thirty-five stitches for a child, and fifty for + a grown-up person. + Knit three plain rows with the coloured wool, + Knit ten rows, putting the wool twice round the pin, + with white wool. + Again, knit four plain rows with the coloured wool, + and ten rows putting the wool twice round the pin, + with the white wool. + Knit three plain rows with the coloured wool, and fasten off. + +Make up the frill as follows:— + +Plat or double each white row, making the three sets of white rows lie +side by side, so as to stand up, and have a square appearance. When +done, lay the frill the wrong side uppermost, and sew the middle row of +each set of stitches together, side by side, all along. + +Sew a ribbon at each end, to tie. + + +A RUFF. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 48. + +This is particularly useful for children to tie round the neck, and +is knit with fine wool and coarse pins. It may be knit in the raised +French stitch, or the open hem, or any other elastic soft stitch. + +Set a sufficient number of stitches on the pin to be about two nails +wide, and knit six or eight nails long, and when done, sew up along the +side, and after drawing a piece of rolled wadding through, draw it, or +sew it up at each end, and attach ribbons, or worsted cord to tie it. +It resembles a boa in shape. + + +A SCARF. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 49. + +Set on sixty stitches (more or less, according to taste), always +choosing an even number, and knit along in the “Imitation Network +Stitch, No. 8,” to the length required, from one yard and a half to two +yards. Next make a fringe by setting on eighteen stitches, and, after +knitting a sufficient quantity in the same stitch to sew along the two +ends, fasten off, leaving, however, fourteen stitches to unrove, to +form the fringe. + +These scarfs look beautiful in shaded colours, and may be knit of +floss silk, netting silk, cotton, thread, or wool. The above number of +stitches is calculated for wool. + + +ANOTHER SCARF. + +This is made of the “French Raised Stitch, No. 31,” and looks +exceedingly beautiful, when made with fine wool and small pins. + +The number of stitches depends, of course, on the quality of the wool; +it is therefore impossible to set down any fixed number; suffice it to +say it should be made of the usual width. At the ends fix some long +fringe, of which there are various kinds given in this work. + + +COMFORTER. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 50. + +For one comforter, buy a quarter of a pound of lamb’s wool. The six +thread, untwisted, is the best. + +Set forty stitches on a pin, and, if the pins are not very thick, put +the wool twice round them while knitting every stitch, which should be +knit in double knitting, and may have a border and fringe at the ends +to give a finish, in which case, a little more wool will be required. + + +COMFORTER. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 51. + + Set thirty stitches on one pin, + Knit sixty-four plain ribs, backwards and forwards, + Pick up twenty-two stitches from the middle of the side + of the piece, leaving twenty-one stitches on each + side from the end. + Knit on backwards and forwards for twenty-two ribs, + to make a chest piece, and fasten off. + Sew up the two ends of the long piece, and it is completed. + When worn, the comforter is drawn over the head, letting + the chest piece hang down in front. + This is knit with soft wool and upon ivory pins. + + +ANOTHER COMFORTER, THE SAME SHAPE, BUT DONE IN DOUBLE KNITTING. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 51. + +Set on fifty-four stitches, and knit in double knitting, about +sixty-six or seventy rows, and fasten off, by knitting or binding the +two ends together. + +From the middle of the length in front, pick up stitches for the chest +piece, and knit forty rows or more, according to pleasure. + + +A HANDKERCHIEF. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 52. + +This is a small and very warm handkerchief, to wear under a shawl or +fur tippet, in the winter; it is knit with pretty thick floss wool, +either white or coloured, in blue or crimson it looks well; the needles +used are either of wood, whalebone, or cane. + +Cast on 160 common stitches, and knit one plain row, then nine rows of +double knitting with a plain stitch at the beginning and end of each +row, continue this double knitting, narrowing at one end, until the +handkerchief is brought to five or six stitches, then take it off like +a garter. This bottom corner is bound with ribbon, and two strings put +on to tie round the waist, the other two ends are also bound, and a +ribbon loop put on each, the ribbon passes through these loops, and it +fits neatly to the figure. + + +LITTLE KNIT HABIT-SHIRT. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 53, 54, 55. + +These are remarkably nice things to wear under the shawl, as they set +close to the chest, and give a great deal of warmth. They are best knit +with small wooden or thick steel pins, and with floss wool, about three +or four threads, and in double knitting. + +The habit-shirt is in four pieces, namely, one back, two fronts and one +collar. + +The back should be cut out to fit the person tolerably, and the fronts +joined to it on the shoulder, and brought across over the chest. + +Observe, in the Plate that in Fig. 53, SS represent the straight parts, +and PP the sloped. + +Begin to knit the front, by setting on as many stitches as will form +the length required from S to A, or top, and observe, as you continue +knitting, that one end of the knitting must be much more sloped than +the other, for which purpose, at that end most sloped, increase at +the beginning and end of the row, but at the side which is less +sloped, widen only at the end of the pin. Having made the two fronts +to match each other so as to be a pair, begin making the back. Begin +it at the bottom or narrow straight part at the waist; increase it at +the beginning and end of each row, till sufficiently wide to go from +shoulder to shoulder; after which, diminish in the same way at each end +of every row to the neck. Take off or finish the few centre stitches +that may remain, and knit up first on one side, and then on the other, +lessening each row till it is properly hollowed. + +The collar is merely a straight piece. + +In making up, sew the sides marked P, to each side of the back marked +ZZ, and sew on the collar all round. Put a ribbon behind, to tie round +the waist, and another at the throat. + + +A PRETTY KNIT HALF-HANDKERCHIEF. + +Begin the handkerchief from one stitch, knit as many rows, increasing +one stitch every row at the same end, until there are seven loops upon +the pin. + + Begin the pattern thus:— + Make a stitch, + Slip off a stitch, + Knit two together, + Put the slipped stitch over the two just knitted in one. + Again make a stitch, + Slip off a stitch, + Knit two stitches, + Put the slipped stitch over as before, + Continue thus until four stitches from the end of the row, + then make a stitch, and knit the four remaining stitches + plain. + Knit every alternate row in turn-stitch; + This alternate row must have the three last stitches knit plain, + increasing it by making a stitch. + The handkerchief must be one yard and a quarter long on the + straight side. When done, fasten off. + + +HONEYCOMB-KNIT SHAWL. + +This is made of fine lamb’s wool or yarn; it looks very well when the +centre is white, with a shaded border of some bright colour. + +For a small shawl, or a large handkerchief, the following quantity is +required:— + + Three ounces of fine white lamb’s wool. + Two skeins of the darkest shade of colour. + Two skeins of the next. + Two skeins of the next. + One skein of the lightest. + +The needles are of wood, rather fine, not so thick as a drawing pencil. + +The centre is first knit, beginning with only two loops on your needle, +to make the point fine; knit several plain rows, raising one loop in +each row; the raising is merely knitting first the outside and then the +inside of the last loop, and is continued in every row, whether plain +or open, through the whole shawl. + +When you have ten loops on your needle begin your pattern, which is +done as follows:— + + Knit four plain stitches, bring the wool in front of the + needle, and then, taking hold of two loops instead of + one, knit them plainly together; continue this till + within four loops of the end, which must be knit plain. + Always begin and end every open row with four plain + stitches. + + Knit three plain rows between each figured one. When you + have from 200 to 250 loops, (which will make a good + sized shawl), begin the border, which looks best dark at + the edges, and shaded up to light in the middle. Before + beginning the border at the top, it is best to knit + three or four plain rows of the white wool; and observe, + that as there is a right and a wrong side to the shawl, + the first row of the border must be continued so as to + suit it, by knitting one, more or less, of the plain + white rows. + + Begin with your darkest shade of border, and knit three or + more rows of it, according to taste; then the second, + the third, the lightest, the third again, second, and + darkest, increasing one loop in every row, both open and + plain, as before; the last three or four rows should be + plain, to make the edge firm. Then fasten off. + + Begin the side border by taking up all the inside loops, as + those in the heel of a stocking are done, and begin with + the dark shade as at the top, and in the _first row + only_, raise a loop every fifth stitch, which may be + easily done by taking up the little bars or loops that + lie between the stitches; go on as before, raising one + loop at the end of every row. + + Be careful to begin all the borders on the same side, as, + in consequence of the manner of taking up the loops, + there is a difference. + +The raising the loops at the side border is done to make it set loosely +to the shawl, as, if it were not thus enlarged, it would be tight and +confined. The corners and point of the border are neatly joined with a +needle and thread. + + +A TIPPET. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 56. + +Cut out a tippet or cape of the proper shape and size in paper, and +then divide it into five equal portions; each portion may be considered +a gore, and by measuring by the stitches put on the pin with the +pattern, the right number may easily be ascertained. These gores may be +made to increase equally on both sides, as in the Plate, or only on one +side. Sometimes long ends are continued with the two front gores, to +make a sort of mantilla or pelerine. + +Neat tippets might be made with advantage for school girls at times +when worsteds are cheap. + + +FOR A PURSE. + +Set on one pin ninety or a hundred stitches, knit the first stitch, put +the silk over the pin, then slip a stitch and knit a stitch; turn the +slipped stitch over the last knit one, and so on all through the pin; +then seam the next row, and so on till completed, when fasten off. + + +FOR A PURSE + +Use four pins. If the silk twist be fine it requires two skeins—if +coarse, three skeins; or, if to be made of two colours, half that +quantity. Cast on your three pins eighteen loops, if fine, or sixteen +loops, if coarse, and begin (after one plain row) to knit in raised +French stitch (see No. 31); and when sufficient rounds have been +completed to form fourteen holes length-wise, knit backwards or +forwards on two pins in the same stitch, to form the opening; after +complete fourteen more holes or batterns, join the purse again by +knitting in three pins, as before, until fourteen more holes are done, +when bind down and fasten off. + + +FOR A PURSE, + +Two skeins of silk are sufficient (generally of two colours); use four +pins, set on four stitches on each pin; begin to knit plain round and +round, widen one stitch each round, until you have eighteen stitches on +each pin (measure here how much silk you have used that you may know +how much to reserve for narrowing with), then knit one stitch plain +and one turned for every round, until time to make the opening, when +put all your stitches on one needle, knitting backwards and forwards, +taking care to preserve the stitch by knitting the back rows properly, +by turning the stitches that were before knit plain, continue this till +the one skein is used up, when you are at the middle of your purse; +take the other skein as many rows again, backwards and forwards, then +join the opening by putting the stitches on three needles, as before, +and knit round and round until you have but enough silk left for the +narrowing, when begin to knit plain, narrowing every round until +reduced to four stitches, as before, on each pin, when fasten off. + + +FOR A PURSE. + +Cast seventy-five stitches on one pin; two skeins of silk are +sufficient, and very fine pins are best; after knitting one plain row, +continue as follows: knit one stitch plain, and then knit the silk +twice round the pin, knit two stitches together in turn stitch; again +put the silk twice round the pin, and knit two stitches together in +turn stitch, and so on to every row, remembering that the first stitch +in every row is knit plain. + + PRETTY NEW PURSE PATTERN. + + Use four pins and set on each of three pins eighteen or twenty loops, + Knit one plain round, and then continue for another round as follows:— + Bring the silk in front of the pin, slip a stitch, knit a stitch, + then turn the slipped stitch over the knit one; + Again bring the silk in front of the pin, slip a stitch, knit a + stitch, and turn the slipped stitch over the knit one, and so + on to the end of the round, + Knit the two next rounds plain, + And continue alternately knitting one round of the pattern, and two + rounds plain, until the purse is finished. + + +RECEIPT FOR A ZEPHYRINE. + +This is a very convenient thing to lie over the head instead of a +bonnet, especially in travelling, and is generally knit of two colours. +It should be knit with Berlin wool, on two rather fine pins, with knobs +at the end. + + Set on your pin 100 stitches, + Knit a row plain, + Turn, or purl a row, + Repeat this twice more each, + Then change the colour, and continue knitting and purling + alternately, three rows each, + Again change to the first colour, and continue knitting and + purling, three rows more each, + Continue thus changing colour until there are five stripes + of one colour, and six stripes of the other, + when it is finished, + Then gather the ends to a point, bind them with ribbon, + and sew on strings to match the darkest colour. + + +A ZEPHYR. + +This is a soft shawl to lay a baby on, or carry it out in, and is +desirable on account of its warmth and lightness. Some are made square, +others of a half-handkerchief shape. + +In either case, set on about 130 or more stitches, and knit in +honeycomb or French raised stitch, the embossed, hexagon, or any other +simple pretty pattern preferred. A border and fringe may be added, +according to taste, and certainly gives a rich finish to it. + + +A BABY’S CAP. + +Put on eighty stitches on the three pins, so as to have 240 stitches; +knit twelve, turning every alternate stitch; in the next row turn the +stitch which was plain before; take in eighty stitches, one at every +fourth stitch, so as to leave a full border; then knit one row plain, +one open row, three rows plain, and twenty-four rows double knitting; +then knit three rows plain, one open row, three rows plain, twenty-four +rows double knitting, three rows plain, one open row, and three rows +plain. + +Cast on twenty-four stitches at each end of the first three plain, to +form the back of the cap; then knit forty-eight rows double knitting +the whole length; then take in gradually to the size of the crown in +one row, knit three rows plain, one open row; again three plain; fasten +off at the top, join up the back, and knit three rows plain, one open +row, and three plain. + +The crown is made by putting on sixteen stitches, and increasing one +at each end for sixteen rows; then knit sixteen rows; then decrease +sixteen rows, which forms the circle. + + +A BABY’S CAP. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 57. + +Set on one stitch on each of three pins, and knit a circular piece of +knitting in hole-stitch, until there are 110 stitches altogether on the +three pins. + + Knit six ribs of stocking knitting, one of holes, + and one of garter rib, + Knit six ribs of stocking knitting, one of holes, + and one rib of garter-stitch, + Knit six ribs of stocking, one of holes, and one of garter, + Knit six ribs of stocking, one of holes, one of garter, + two of stocking, and two of garter, + Finish off twenty-two stitches, and divide the remainder + of the stitches on two pins, + Knit three ribs of stocking, making holes at six stitches + distance, which serve for ribbons, + Knit three ribs of garter-stitch, two of stocking, six of + garter, three of stocking, one row of holes, four ribs + of stocking, six ribs of garter, three ribs of stocking, + one row of holes, four ribs of stocking, six ribs of + garter, and three of stocking; after which three more of + stocking, with holes at six stitches distance, to admit + of a second ribbon. + For the border, continue knitting twenty rows in huckaback + stitch; for the border behind, take up the stitches + at the ear on each side, and knit sufficient rows in + huckaback stitch till each strip is long enough to reach + the middle of the back. Put in a ribbon behind, and the + whole is completed. + + +A BABY’S BONNET OR HOOD. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 58. + +For the border, set on eighty stitches and knit in huckaback stitch, +narrow one stitch at each end of every other row, till you have knit +ten rows. Next, commence the head-piece, and knit six rows in double +knitting, the one row of holes, eight rows of double knitting, one +of holes, and six rows of double knitting, then begin to knit in +honeycomb-stitch, fasten off two stitches at the end of each pin, every +row until there are but twenty-four on the pin, then fasten off. + +For the crown, set on five stitches, widen each row till you have +sixteen loops, then knit twelve rows. Narrow at each end for two rows, +knit fourteen rows and fasten off. Sew the crown to the head-piece with +wool of the same quality. + +Begin the curtain by taking up all the stitches at the back, and +knitting six rows in double knitting, widening four stitches on each +pin; then one row of holes, widening two stitches; then six rows of +double knitting still widening, one of holes, widening two stitches, +and double knitting, increasing till there are 150 stitches on the pin, +then fasten off, and put in ribbons through the holes where wanted. + + +A GENTLEMAN’S NIGHT-CAP. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 59. + +This cap has a very pretty appearance, something resembling old +fashioned insertion-lace, as there is an ornamented border round the +head. It is done with fine needles and cotton, and knit round like a +stocking. The plan is as follows:— + + Cast on any number of stitches, divisable by thirteen. + 1st Row. Turn one, knit one, turn one, slip one, knit one. + Draw the slipt loop over, knit six plain, bring the + cotton over, as though going to turn, knit one, bring + your cotton to the top and knit one. + + 2nd Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine. + + 3rd Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit five, + bring the cotton to the top and knit two. + + 4th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine. + + 5th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit four, + bring the cotton to the top, knit one, bring the cotton + to the top, knit three. + + 6th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine. + + 7th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit three, + bring the cotton to the top, knit one, bring the cotton + to the top, knit four. + + 8th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine. + + 9th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit two, + bring the cotton to the top, knit five. + + 10th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit nine. + + 11th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit one, + bring the cotton to the top, knit six. + + 12th Row. Turn, knit, turn, slip, and draw over, knit + nine, knit two plain rounds, turn five rounds, knit + one round, throwing the cotton twice over the needle; + turn one round, repeat this until you have eighteen + turned rounds. Knit two plain rounds, turn five rounds, + take four needles, and knit and turn three rounds + alternately, narrowing at each needle end, having a + turn, knit and seam between each narrowing; continue + this until there are four loops on each needle, which + will draw round the tassel. + + +KNIT BAGS. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 60, 61. + +Very pretty bags may be made of fantail stitch in silk twist, for which +purpose set on as many stitches, divisable by fourteen, as are required +for the width of the bag. About four times fourteen or fifty-six +stitches will be a useful size, adding, if preferred, four extra +stitches on each end, and between each of the fourteen stitches, to +separate the pattern more effectually, and make it look richer. These +extra stitches will amount to five times four or twenty, making in all +seventy-six stitches. Knit the four stitches of any pattern preferred; +supposing the open hem, No. 4, is selected, then knit as follows:— + + Set on seventy-six stitches, knit four plain ribs, + and six turn-stitch rows. + Open hem the first four stitches, + Fantail the next fourteen stitches, + +Open hem the next four stitches, and so on, till the last open hemmed +four stitches complete the row. + +Continue as above till a sufficient length is done for both sides of +the bag, after which, seam it up, and put cord and tassels to complete +the whole, lining it or not, according to pleasure. + + +KETTLE HOLDERS. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 62. + +This is knit in double knitting, with a border of plain ribs round. + + Set thirty-two stitches on one pin, + Knit four ribs plain, + Knit double knitting, letting the first four stitches and the + last four stitches of every row be plain knitting. + When the double knit part is quite square, add the four ribs + of plain knitting, to complete the border, and fasten off. + A little loop of twisted wool is put at the top to hang it by. + + +KNIT MATS, OR KETTLE HOLDERS. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 63. + +This is knit to resemble fringe all over, and when well done looks very +pretty. + +Use fine needles and a common kind of worsted for knitting the wool +fringe, which must be thick and soft. + +Set on any number of stitches, and knit one plain row, after which, +begin the next row by knitting one plain stitch, then put the wool +between the pins round the fingers, and back again between the pins in +front, and so on, similar to the rug stitch, No. 33. + + +KNIT OPEN BRAID. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 64. + +This is very simple, and if done with cord or thick cotton or worsted, +might be very useful for sewing on, to ornament children’s dresses; or +if of silk twist, for putting round pincushions, curtains, &c. + +Set on one stitch, and knit as many stitches as the longest pin will +possibly hold. Knit two rows plain, and then unrove one row by pulling +out the pin, and draw the wool through the last loop, to keep it from +roving still further. The braid is thus formed, and must be sewed on at +each top and bottom loop. + + +KNIT MATS. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 65. + +Set on thirty stitches or more, according to the size required, and +knit in the two coloured chain-stitch till a square is completed, when +make a fringe, No. 1, and sew it round. When completed, cut it and comb +it out, taking care not to pull out the bits by drawing too hard. + + +COVERLET. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 66. + +This is knit with cotton, and is composed of several squares sewed +together. These squares are begun at one corner, commencing with two +stitches, and increasing to fifty or more, by widening at each end of +each row. It is then decreased by narrowing at each end of each row, +and fastened off when two stitches are left on the pins. These squares +are often ornamented, sometimes by knitting one row turn-stitch, seven +rows plain, backwards and forwards, and so on, so as to form three ribs +garter, and one rib stocking-stitch. + +Some persons ornament each square differently, others merely sew them, +so that the rows shall run or lie in different positions. A border with +fringe may be put round, for which purpose, refer to the stitches for +fringes, &c. + +The huckaback pattern is very suitable for coverlets. + + +BLANKETS. + +These are usually made for infants’ cradles and invalids, on account of +their warmth and lightness; they should be knit with very large pins +and thick wool, and in double knitting all the way, having a border of +imitation double knitting or huckaback all round, to keep them more in +place. + + Set on from 100 to 200 stitches, according to the size + required, knitting about ten ribs of border, after which + the remainder is plain double knitting. Observe that the + first and last eight or ten loops on each end of the pin + be knit in the border-stitch. + + +COTTON DOYLEYS. + +PLATE 21. FIG. 67. + +These are very pretty, and may be made in various stitches. + +The following is a particularly pretty way:— + + Set on thirty-eight stitches, + Knit two plain ribs, + Continue knitting two plain stitches and two turn stitches, + remembering every two ribs to knit plain stitches over + turn stitches, and turn stitches over plain, so as to + form a kind of ornamental knitting, resembling huckaback + or checks. + Observe, the two last, as well as the two first stitches of + every row are plain, to continue the border; also knit + two plain ribs to correspond, before fastening off. Sew + in the fringe, No. 2. + + +ANOTHER DOYLEY. + +This is similar to the one before, excepting that it is knit in +honeycomb or hole-stitch. + + +A HANDSOME BORDER AND CORNERS FOR A SHAWL. + +This is a very beautiful pattern when properly done, and would answer +well for a shawl, a baby’s zephyrine, a mat, carpet, counterpane, or +any other article enclosed in a square. + +The border (which is a kind of fantail stitch) is ended at each corner +by squares, which gives great lightness to the whole. + +In beginning one of these corners, set on but two stitches on the pin +to form the point; and observe, as you go on, to increase one stitch +at the end of every row, until the square or diamond is knit to a +sufficient width (say thirteen rows) when decrease every row one stitch +at the end, until the number of loops on your pin is reduced to two +again, when fasten off, and the square is completed. + +The stitch with which the square is knitted is formed as follows; and +the number of ribs at the side should be divisable by six and one over, +to be the proper width for the border; thirteen is a very good number +of ribs. + +Begin the square by knitting plain every row until you have thirteen +stitches on your pin (remembering to increase one stitch at the end of +each row) and then continue as below. + + 1st Row. Knit six stitches plain, + Pass the cotton in front to make a stitch, + Knit two together, + Knit the remaining stitches plain. + + Next Row. Knit plain, + Knit six stitches plain, + Pass the cotton in front, to make a stitch, + Knit two stitches together, + Pass the cotton in front again, to make a stitch, + Knit two stitches together, + Knit the remaining stitches plain. + + Next Row. Knit plain. + + Continue the above, observing that every alternate row is + knit plain, and the rows between knit in the above + stitch; always leaving six plain stitches at each end of + the pin, to make a kind of little border to the square. + +When complete, begin the border by picking up the stitches on one side +of the square, and then continue thus:— + + 1st Row. Seam a stitch, + Knit a stitch, + Seam a stitch, + Knit two stitches, + Pass the cotton in front to make a stitch. + Knit a stitch. + Repeat the same for six more stitches; then, + Knit one stitch. + + Next Row. Knit a stitch, + Seam a stitch, + Knit a stitch, + Knit two together, + Seam eleven stitches, + Knit two together. + + Next Row. Seam a stitch, + Knit one, + Seam one, + Knit two together, + Knit nine plain, + Knit three together. + + Next Row. Knit a stitch, + Seam a stitch, + Knit a stitch, + Knit two together, + Seam seven stitches, + Knit two together. + + Continue these four rows successively, until the border is long + enough to insert another corner or square, as before. + + +GENTLEMAN’S TRAVELLING CAPS. + +These are remarkably pretty and comfortable, and should be made of +shaded wool or silk, and are knit with two pins only. + + Set on an even number of stitches, + + Knit the first row plain; + + Observe to slip off the first stitch of every row + throughout, and continue as follows:— + + 1st Row. (After slipping the first stitch) put the wool in front + to make a stitch, + Slip off a stitch the contrary way, + Knit a stitch, as before, + Continue this until at the end of the row, + + Next Row. (After, as usual, slipping off the 1st stitch) knit two + stitches together the whole way, leaving one at the + end to knit plain. Repeat this. + + +SOFA FOOT COVERS, OR WARMERS. + +These are useful for the feet of an invalid, when lying on the sofa, +and are knit as follows:— + + Set on one pin 174 stitches, and knit one plain row, after + which knit eleven or twelve rows in any fancy stitch + to form a border, and then commence double knitting, + remembering to continue the border pattern at each side, + by knitting the first and last twelve stitches on the + pin, every row in the same fancy stitch. + + Continue this until your work is square, when open it like + a bag, which must be done by gently taking out your pin + and picking up the loops on two pins, each pin taking up + the alternate loops. Knit a similar border as that made + at the beginning, to each pin of stitches, and fasten + off. The foot warmer, or bag, is then completed, and may + have a fringe sewn on all round, to give a finish to the + whole. + + +RETICULE BAG. + +This is knit in two colours, say violet and green. + + Set on your pin any number of stitches divisible by six, + (about seventy-eight is a good size), and, after + knitting one plain row, fasten on the other colour and + knit six stitches with the violet and six with the + green, alternately, to the end of the row. + + Next row, knit entirely turn-stitch, still knitting six + stitches, alternately, of the two colours, taking care + that each colour shall be knit in continuation of + itself, so as to form distinct stripes. + + Continue knitting alternate rows of plain stitch and + seam-stitch, until the work is so long, as when doubled + will form a well-proportioned reticule bag. Observe, in + passing the wool behind of one colour across the other, + not to pull it tight; when completed, fasten off; line + with buckram and flannel and violet green or gold silk; + put a cord of silk or wool all round, with cord handles + and tassels. + + This makes a durable handsome bag, and may be knit of even + more colours or shades, if preferred. + +Reticules knit with other stitches look very pretty, as the +herring-bone back-stitch, + + The two coloured rib-stitch, + The two coloured chain-stitch. + +Or the above striped pattern may be varied by arranging the stripes in +checks instead. + +Papier machée tops are now made for bags, which look very handsome. + + +KNIT PETTICOAT. + +For delicate children, a knit petticoat is far warmer and lighter than +a flannel one, and is knit in double knitting, or in imitation double +knitting:—for a child of four or six years of age, set on 400 stitches +and knit the proper length, when finish with a few plain rows and +fasten off. Sew up the seam to the proper distance behind. + + +CHILD’S KNIT STAYS. + +As stays vary so very much in size, according to the make of the child, +it would be difficult to form a receipt, as they should fit well, and +the styles of knitters vary so much. It is better to cut, in paper, +the exact shape of the stay, and then knit your stay to match it, by +constantly measuring. Set on sufficient stitches on your pin to form +the depth of the end of the stay, and knit several plain rows until the +rise of the shoulder. + +Add a stitch at the beginning of every rib until it is sufficiently +raised or hollowed, to form the beginning of the shoulder-strap, +then begin to hollow for the arm-hole, decreasing one stitch at the +beginning of one row, and the end of the next, and so on, until the +hole is deep enough, when commence increasing in the same proportion, +to form the rise inside the arm-hole. + +The body in front should be slightly hollowed towards the middle, and +the remainder half of the body finished in the same manner, therefore, +it is advisable to set down every widening and narrowing as you do it, +in order that the one half may exactly correspond with the other. + +These bodies generally have tape shoulder straps, but knit ones can +easily be attached, by picking up six stitches on the shoulder, +knitting a narrow strip. + +They are generally straight at the bottom, and are usually knit of +cotton, and are very elastic. + + +SILK WATCH GUARD. + +Set on your pin seven or nine stitches, or even more if the silk is +very fine. + +Knit in common knitting a yard and a half in length. + +Some thread their silk with beads, either black or gold, and introduce +them in the knitting to form the initials or name of the wearer, or +to make fanciful devices; others knit it entirely with beads of one +or more colours, introducing one bead at every stitch, but the plain +knitting is the neatest and handsomest of the three kinds, the other +two being too gay for daily wear. + + +CHECKED NAPKIN RINGS. + +Choose two colours, say green and gold, set on your pin with the green +wool twenty-four stitches and knit one plain row, and then knit as +follows:— + + 1st Row. Knit plain four stitches, alternately of each colour, + to the end of the row. + + 2nd Row. Turn-stitch (four stitches alternately of each colour) + to the end of the row, observing to keep the gold colour + over the gold, and green over the green + . + 3rd Row. Plain knit, as in the first row. + + 4th Row. Turn-stitch, as in the second row. + + Repeat these four rows. + +The next eight rows are knit exactly the same way, excepting that the +colours are arranged so that the green is placed over the gold, and the +gold over the green. + +Continue alternately changing the situation of the colours every eight +rows, until about one and a half nail in length is knit, when fasten +off, line with buckram or wire, and silk, putting a bow at the seam +where the ends are sewn together, and it is completed. Some knit these +in the two coloured rib and two coloured chain-stitch. + + +SOFA SHAWL. + +These are very expensive, but useful for invalids, on account of their +warmth and lightness. + +Set on five or six hundred stitches and knit a square of double +knitting, or imitation double knitting, either with or without a +border, if the latter is preferred, the one which is explained with +corners is the handsomest, unless fringe is also required, when one of +the fringe borders may be added at once. + + +A BOSOM FRIEND. + +Set on your pin seventy stitches, and knit in imitation knitting for +about 100 rows, when knit twenty-five stitches of the next row, after +which take another pin and fasten off the next twenty stitches, then +knit the last twenty-five stitches on another pin. + +Continue knitting the twenty-five stitches on one pin in the same +stitch, fastening off one stitch at every end and beginning of each +row, next to the middle, which forms the hollowing round the neck. + +When the stitches are reduced to four, fasten off. + +Do the same with the other pin containing twenty-five stitches, and +fasten off. + +Sew pieces of white ribbon to the corners, to hang it by round the neck. + +Some persons do not hollow out bosom friends, but knit them square or +oblong. + + +BRACES FOR GENTLEMEN. + +These may be knit in wool, cotton, or even silk. The following receipt +is for cotton braces (the wool would require fewer stitches, and the +silk more than the cotton). + +The shape of a brace is wide in the middle, with two narrow ends. + +For the first narrow end, set on twenty-four stitches, and knit two +nails in length, in imitation of double knitting, or in huckaback +stitch. Widen to forty-eight stitches, and knit a length of nine nails. + +Narrow at each end, till reduced to thirty stitches, when put half +the loops on one pin and half on another; continue knitting each end +separately until three nails long, when fasten off and the one brace +is completed. These two last ends should be knit with a button-hole in +each, which is easily done by again halving the stitches on two pins, +and knitting them separately a few rows (say eight or twelve), and +afterwards joining them together on one pin again. + + +THE SPIRAL BOA, OR RUFF. + +Set on any quantity of stitches to form an even number of threes, say +thirty-six or forty-eight, and knit a plain row in one coloured wool. + +Fasten on the other colour, and knit three stitches alternately with +each colour. + + Next row, turn-stitch back again, knitting each colour over + its own shade. + Continue knitting one row plain, and turn-stitch back again, + observing each plain row to alter the arrangement of the + colours one stitch, which gives the shades a spiral direction. + + For a clearer explanation, observe as follows:— + + 1st Row. Knit plain three grey and three scarlet stitches, + alternately to the end of the row. + + 2nd Row. Turn-stitch back, keeping the colours over their + own shades. + + 3rd Row. Knit two grey stitches, then three scarlet and + three grey, alternately, to the end of the row, leaving + one grey at the end. + + 4th Row. Knit the colours over their shade in the last row + in turn-stitch. + + 5th Row. Knit one grey stitch, then three scarlet and three + grey, alternately, ending with two grey at the end. + + 6th Row. Turn-stitch back again. + + 7th Row. Knit three scarlet and three grey, alternately to + the end. + + 8th Row. Turn-stitch back again. + + 9th Row. Knit two scarlet, and three grey, and three scarlet + alternately, leaving one scarlet at the end. + + 10th Row. Turn-stitch back again. + + 11th Row. Knit one scarlet, and three grey, and three + scarlet alternately, leaving two scarlet at the end. + + 12th Row. Knit three grey and three scarlet, alternately + and so on. Observe that you keep your wool (which is + constantly passed across) always at the wrong side of + the knitting, or that side which does not resemble the + stitch of a knit stocking. Take care not to pull the + wool tight when passing it across. + +When a sufficient length is knit, fasten off and sew up, and fill with +wadding or wool, which is pushed down with a stick or long knitting +pin, and then sewn up. + +Three or more colours may be used, but it is rather troublesome to +prevent the wools from entangling, on account of their crossing each +other so frequently. + + +SWISS CAP. + +This is a kind of woollen tie or frill, to keep the head and ears warm +when in an open carriage, and is put on over the border of the bonnet +cap, and ties under the chin. + +Its length is about six nails and a half, and the depth when double, +one nail and a half. + +The colours generally chosen are white, blue, and scarlet. + +Choose two very thick wooden pins, also some very fine lamb’s wool, and +some thick sewing silk of the same colour. + +Set on about sixty stitches or more (according to the length desired) +on one pin with silk, and knit a plain row, then knit another plain row +with wool, putting it three times round the needle every stitch instead +of once. + +Next row, knit exactly the same. + +Next row, knit plain, passing the wool but once round the pin as usual. + +Repeat the three rows twice more, and then finish off by knitting a +plain row of silk. + +Double the piece of knitting in half its depth, so as to form a kind of +frill, and run in a ribbon along the third row of long stitches in and +out through both the folds or frills, to keep them in place, which also +serves as strings to keep the cap on the head by tying under the chin. + + +A LIGHT SCARF. + +Set on 100 stitches, and knit either in one or two colours, seven nails +of raised French stitch, or honeycomb-stitch, after which, knit a row +plain, putting the wool six times round the pin at every stitch. + + Next row, knit plain, taking care to keep the long stitches even. + Knit one row of honeycomb pattern. + Knit another plain row. + Repeat the row of long stitches, by again putting the wool six + times round the pin. + Again the plain row, as also the row of honeycomb pattern, + and the other plain row. + +Continue this till the scarf is long enough to allow of your ending as +you began, with seven nails of fancy stitch. A fringe should be added. + +These scarfs are often made with the long stitches white, and all the +rest coloured, and look very handsome. + + +AN IMPROVED SOCK. + + Use coarse lamb’s wool and middle sized pins; cast on + seventeen stitches of coloured wool, this makes the + first row in reckoning. + At the end of the second row, make a stitch, which gives + a better form to the heel than setting on eighteen at + first. + At the end of the third row, add a stitch. + Add a stitch at the end of the fifth, seventh, ninth, + eleventh, &c., until you have twenty-five loops on the pin. + Then with a third pin knit ten stitches only. + Continue knitting backwards and forwards the ten stitches + only, until you have knit twenty rows.[3] + At the end of the twenty-first row, make fifteen stitches, + so as to have twenty-five stitches again on the pin, and + to make it correspond with the other side. + Finish this side of the shoe with as many rows as you knit + on the opposite side, decreasing every other row by + knitting the two first stitches together at the toe, + until there are but seventeen left on the pin, and + fasten off. + All this has been knit of red wool. + Then continue with the white wool for twenty-four rows, + which will complete the sock, adding at the end of the + two first sixth and seventh rows, one to enlarge the boot. + Sew up the shoe to the sock at the instep, and draw up the + toe and sew it round the heel and up the leg. A bow may + be added, if required, also leather soles. + +[3] At the end of this twenty rows, take up ten stitches, and with +white wool knit fourteen rows. Then take on to this middle pin, which +has the white even upon it, nine stitches from each side (namely, from +the top of the heel) of the red shoe, and knit two rows with coloured +wool for the strap. + + +FLOWER STAND COVERS. + +Take a tin can or jar, of the proper size for the flowers to be placed +in, and make the knit cover as follows:— + +Choose two middle sized steel pins, and rather fine wool of two +colours, and begin as follows:— + + Set on as many stitches as will measure to the depth of the + flower stand, and knit six rows of one colour, letting + the alternate rows be plain, and turn-stitch so as to + make one side appear like knit stockings on the right + side. The next six rows knit of the other colour, and + altering the alternate rows of plain and turn-stitch, so + as to throw the stocking-stitch inside. Continue thus + ribbing the piece of work until you have knit sufficient + to go round the base, when fasten off and sew up. Add a + fringe at the top, and a circular piece of wire inside, + both at top and bottom, is sometimes put to keep it in + shape; though the jar generally is sufficient in itself + when put inside. A leather or cloth bottom may be added. + + +KNIT PEN WIPER. + + Set on your pin thirty stitches of black wool, and knit + eight rows backwards and forwards for the border. The + middle part is next begun in the embossed hexagon-stitch + of red, or any other colour, still observing to continue + the border, by knitting four plain stitches at the + beginning and ending of each pin of the black wool. + + End by knitting the eight plain rows of black wool as + before, to complete the first enclosed square of the pen + wiper, do not fasten off, but begin knitting another + piece exactly to match the first, which when finished + completes the pen wiper. Double it like a book and sew a + bit of ribbon down the inside, under which may be passed + bits of silk or rag to wipe the pens upon. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +STRAW PLATTING. + + +GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. + +The precise period when the Dunstable bonnets, made of straw plat, were +invented, is unknown, but is supposed to be probably a century and a +half old. + +The straw platting districts now, include Bedfordshire, +Buckinghamshire, Hertfordshire, and Essex. In many other counties the +platting is partially followed, and it may be well adopted in other +districts for the supply of the neighbourhood. + +There are markets for the sale of the large bundles of long straw, both +rough and properly stripped; also the short straws, the straw plats, +and the bonnets throughout the straw plat districts. The best bonnet +market is at St. Alban’s, but there are others at Luton, Dunstable, and +Braintree. These markets are held only in the morning, from about eight +to ten o’clock, when the plat buyers always attend. + +Experiments on the different straws of corn and grass, and on the +precise times when they should be cut, whether before or at the time +when the grass and corn are ripe, might lead to some discoveries which +would add to the durability and beauty of the bonnets. + +There are few manufactories in the kingdom in which so little capital +is wanted, or the knowledge of the art so soon acquired as in that of +straw platting; it is, therefore, particularly suitable for school +children, from six years old and upwards, as also for the sons of +cottagers to employ their spare moments. + +The expense of a _perfect_ apparatus for bleaching, rolling, pressing +upon, &c., amounts to about three guineas, which will employ any number +of persons from one to one hundred; but, by contriving with materials +at hand, a guinea alone would almost provide those articles not to be +procured at home. + +The following are the articles required for platting, and making up the +plats into articles for sale:— + + £. _s._ _d._ + Box for bleaching the straw and bonnets 0 18 0 + Mill for rolling and glazing the plat 0 18 0 + Bonnet stand for ironing and shaping the bonnet upon 0 11 0 + Box iron with two or three heaters 0 4 6 + Tin kettle for dyeing 0 5 0 + Tailor’s measure 0 0 6 + Earthenware jar for the brimstone 0 0 4 + Cloths for ironing 0 0 6 + Large iron basin tinned 0 1 6 + Straw splitting machines, two at 4½_d._ 0 0 9 + Stone brimstone, bone-dust, needles, &c., about 0 3 0 + £. 3 3 0 + + +THE BLEACHING, OR FUMIGATION BOX. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 50. + +If required to be large enough to hold several bonnets, two stories +high and two rows in width, it should be made about three feet long, +two feet wide, and two feet deep. + +The earthen jar is put in the middle of it, in which the brimstone +is put and set fire to when articles are to be bleached, as there is +danger of some of the straw falling into the jar and catching fire; +it is advisable to have four stout legs or wires about a foot high, +fastened round the jar in the centre of the box, and, by carrying a +wire round from peg to peg at the top, and the second a little lower, +a kind of double railing would be formed round the jar as a protection +to the straw (see Fig. 50). The box should be made to shut down very +close, for which purpose the lid should have a ledge to fall over the +sides of the box, something similar to the lid of a band-box. + + +MILL FOR ROLLING THE PLAT. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 49. + +This is difficult to procure well made, and is essential to give the +gloss and finish to the straw plat. It should be made of the strongest +oak or box-wood, and of the following size, or larger:— + + Inches + The upright sides, from A to B 15½ + Ditto sloped down to (as from C to D) 13½ + Width of these sides, from E to F 1½ + Depth, or thickness, from F to G 3½ + The two bars of wood, H and T, in width and depth, to be 3½ + Distance between H and T 11 + Circumference of each wheel, K L 7 + Length of screw, not including handle 4½ + Length of handle 3½ + Depth of bar across, R ½ + Length of handle, L 3 + Height of upright, M 5½ + Length of upper handle, O 5 + +The use of the screw is to press the upper wheel nearer upon the lower +one, if wanted, as the thickness of the various plats vary materially, +and what will press one kind, will not be close enough to do another +properly. + +The plat being put in at one end, is worked through between the wheel, +till the whole is drawn through. The wheels should always be as near +together as will just admit the straw without spoiling, as the greater +the pressure the finer the gloss. It is a question whether glass +rollers would not produce a still higher finish. The holes are made +entirely through the wood at the end, A B, to admit of screws, by +which the whole mill is fastened to the side of some chest, or press, +or door. Care should be taken to place it at the proper height from +the floor, for convenience. From three feet and a half to four feet +and a half is about the best distance. It should also be placed in a +situation where the handle may have free play when turned. + + +THE BONNET STAND. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 48. + +This is made of strong deal or oak, and is formed at one end smaller +and differently to the other. The one end is circular, and so formed +as to fit into the crown of a bonnet or hat; the other end is shaped +like the poke, or front. This wood is mounted on a kind of stand, at +a convenient height, and is used for ironing the bonnets upon, after +being wet with the stiffening. + + +BOX IRON. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 52. + +This is made much in the usual way, excepting that it should be +particularly heavy, and have a large handle to enable the person, while +ironing, to have a firm grasp. + + +THE TIN DYEING KETTLE. + +This should be made as long as the longest bundle of straw, as also +deep and narrow. To have a lid to fit tightly on, and a long handle to +carry it about with greater ease. The following dimensions are very +suitable:— + + Inches + Length 17 + Width 5 + Depth 6 + +The earthenware jar should be like a little painter’s pot. + +The tailors’ measure is used for measuring round a person’s head, to +work the crown of the bonnet by. + +The ironing cloth is merely to lay between the iron and the bonnet; it +might be of calico, or any other common material. + + +THE STRAW SPLITTER. + +This is a useful little machine, for dividing or splitting the straws, +and may be procured with almost any number of wires or divisions, from +two up to seven or eight. The machine, which is nothing but crossed +wires or divisions in iron, is set into a wooden handle, through which +the straw is pressed, and thus divided into an equal number of splints +or split straws. These machines cost from 2_d._ to 8_d._ each. + + +ON PREPARING STRAW. + +In selecting the straw, great care should be taken as to the sort and +the colour. Rye straw is considered the best for platting, but is more +difficult to get than wheat, which is preferable to any other sort of +common straw. As it should be picked carefully, it is advisable to +go to the barn itself, or to send some experienced person thither, +previous to the straw being thrashed. Soft good coloured straws should +be chosen, as free from blight and spots as possible. The ears should +be cut off with scissors (not pulled off), and then the straw is tied +in bundles and removed. It is then prepared as follows:— + +Cut off at the joint and pull off the outer or loose covering, which +process is called shocking. + +Each straw will generally cut into three lengths of different +thicknesses and sizes. These lengths should be carefully sorted into +bundles, taking care to put together not only those of the same +thickness, but those also of the same length. + + +ON BLEACHING STRAW. + +Take six quarts of water, and make a strong lather of soap; put in +half an ounce of pearl ash, and half an ounce of sugar of lead, and +make it quite hot. Wash the straws well in it, (keeping it still tied +up in little bundles) after which, place the bundles in the fumigating +box, which should be air tight, and shut it down close, after having +previously lighted the stone brimstone, which should be broken into +small pieces in the jar. + +Observe carefully, when setting the bundles round the box, that they +stand firmly, so as not to fall upon the lighted brimstone and catch +fire. + +These bundles should not be tied very tightly, but sufficiently loose +to stand out a little, as in Fig. 51, Plate 24, to allow of the steam +gaining free access to them. + +They should remain shut up for twelve or eighteen hours, after which, +the bundles should be opened one at a time, cleaned with a cloth, and +then tied up again, ready for platting. + + +ON DYEING STRAW BLACK. + + One pound of logwood chips, + Four quarts of water, + A piece of copperas the size of a walnut, + One pennyworth of verdigris. + +Let the logwood remain in the water three hours, then boil it half an +hour over a slow fire, put in the articles, whether straw, silk, or any +thing else, let it boil half an hour, then take out the chips, and the +straw, add the copperas and the verdigris, previously dissolved over a +slow fire, then put in the straw again, boil it half an hour, let it +stand to cool three hours, wash the straw in cold water, and dry it in +the air, without putting it in the sun. + +To stiffen it, steep gum arabic in small beer, wet the straw with it, +and dry it as before. + + +ANOTHER BLACK DYE. + + Three quarts of water, + Three quarts of urine, + Three quarters of a pound of logwood, + Half a pound of alum, + Quarter of a pound of copperas, + Three or four nut galls. + +Boil the water, urine, logwood, alum, and nut galls together a quarter +of an hour, then add the copperas and boil the whole half an hour, +afterwards put in the straw, and let it boil six hours. Let the straw +remain in the dye till quite cold, then take it out, spread it on a +tray or board to dry in the air, turn it every day for a fortnight, +then rub each straw with an old linen duster, tie the straw in bundles, +and keep it in a damp place. It should be used up quickly, or else it +will decay, without being stiffened. + + +DIRECTIONS FOR PLATTING. + +Each platter should have a separate bundle of straws, and great care +taken that the straws in the bundle are exactly alike, unblemished, and +equal in quality, as no good platter would work a tough straw with a +pliant one. These bundles should have a piece of paper or calico round +them to keep them clean, and they are generally kept by school children +under the arm to prevent their being mixed with a fellow platter’s +straws. + +Observe as follows:— + + 1st. Platters should use the second finger and thumb, + instead of the forefinger, as this last is very useful + in assisting to turn the splints, and thus facilitates + the work. + + 2nd. The straws while being platted should be held with + the long ends turned up above the hand, and not below + towards the waist; this arrangement keeps the straws + cleaner and they are less liable to be bent or broken. + + 3rd. The straws should be renewed before used too near + the end, as the joining is more firm; also avoid if + possible, renewing two straws at the same time as the + plat will be weakened. + + 4th. Avoid wetting the straws unless absolutely necessary + while platting, as water tends much to diminish the + glossy appearance afterwards. In working double splints, + there should be just sufficient moisture to make them + stick together while being worked. + + 5th. Each platter should have a piece of board, about a + quarter or half a yard long, and three or four inches + wide, on which should be wound the plat worked, taking + care to cut off the ends of the straw as the plat is + worked along, previous to winding it on the roller, to + keep it in nice order. These boards should be rounded + at the sides, to keep the plat from cracking. Some use + rollers, and this last is perhaps the better plan. The + circumference of the rollers should be of some settled + size, say half a yard, so as to enable the platter + easily to ascertain by counting the turns of the plat + wound round it, how many yards have been completed. + + 6th. When the number of yards required are finished, + the plat is passed through a roller, as often as is + necessary, till well flattened and glazed, when it is + folded like a coil of ropes in an oblong shape, ready + for making up. The coils should be kept perfectly dry + and free from dust, until a sufficient number is made + for use. + + +PLATS. + +There are numerous kinds of plats of which the names vary so much in +the different countries that it is needless to call them by their +names, excepting those universally known by one term; they will +therefore be simply distinguished by the number of straws employed in +making them. + +Plats are sometimes made with whole straws; sometimes with half straws; +sometimes with a third or fourth or even seventh parts of straws, +according to the quality required. + +Another plat is made with double straws; that is laying two splints or +part of a straw together with the polished parts outside. + +Plats of whole coarse straws are applicable to mats, basket, matting, +&c. + +Plats with finer whole straws; are used for school children, servant’s, +or ladies’ country bonnets, and are commonly called Dunstable. + +The split single, or split double, are made of every quality and +number, and vary in price, according to the labour. + +Some bonnets are made of paper, of grass, of Tuscan plat, and even of +rushes; also of whalebone, of chip, &c. + +Plats made of coloured straw may be platted in various patterns, by +varying the number or position of the one colour with the other. + +The following names of plats, together with their prices per score, are +those in general use. + + _s._ _d._ + Whole Dunstable 0 6 + Fine whole Dunstable 2 3 + Patent Dunstable 2 6 + Luton Dunstable 1 4 + Devonshire plat of seven or eight 0 0 + Bedford Leghorn 4 0 + --------------------------------------------------------- + 1 2 + Mixture plats to + 2 0 + --------------------------------------------------------- + Tuscan ends 3 0 + Rustic plats 0 6 + Fine seven plats 0 0 + Back-bone straw 0 0 + Double seven 0 0 + The eleven straw 0 0 + The double eleven 0 0 + The lustre, or shining, of seventeen straws 0 0 + The wave of twenty-two + (the straws appear as if worked one way) 0 0 + The diamond of twenty-three straws 0 0 + + +PLAT OF THREE. + +Double one straw in two, letting the ends be unequal. Lay a second +straw upright, between the two ends of the first; thus forming three +ends, which must be held with the points upright, between the finger +and thumb of the left hand. Put the right hand straw over the middle +straw, flatten it with the finger and thumb. + + Put the left hand straw over the middle, also flatten it. + Continue thus all the way along, remembering when + joining on a new straw, to let the ends all lie on the + outer side. + Observe, in platting, that the straw be always entirely + folded over, as you would in platting paper, and the + edges kept even. + This may be platted with whole straws, or split ones. + + +ANOTHER PLAT OF THREE. + +This is done with very fine split straws, and is similarly platted with +the one above, excepting that the straw is not flattened on folding in +the patterns, but simply a little twisted, so as to keep the polished +edge uppermost. This is called pearl plat, and is used by bonnet makers +to form ornamental bonnets. + + +PLAT OF FOUR. + +Double two straws, so that all the ends shall be of unequal lengths, +and plat as follows:— + + Put the right hand straw, over one, and under one; + Put the left hand straw, under one; + Again, the right hand straw over one, and under one, + and so on. + + +ANGULAR PLAT OF FOUR. + + This is sometimes called the corner plat, + Put the right hand straw, over one, and under one; + Again, put the right hand straw, over two, and under the + last straw, making it the left hand, or outside straw. + Put the left hand straw, over one, and under one. + Again, put the left hand straw, over two, and under the last + straw, making it the right hand straw. + + +PLAT OF FIVE. + +Double two straws, so that the ends shall be of unequal lengths, and +add a fifth straw between the left hand, first and second. + + Put the right hand straw, over one, and under one; + Put the left hand straw, over one, and under one; + Repeat this all along. + + +PLAT OF SIX. + +Double three straws unequally, and begin. + + Put the right hand straw, over one, and under two; Put the + left hand straw, over one, and under one. + + +PLAT OF SIX. + + Double three straws unequally, making six ends to plat with; + Put the right hand first straw, over one, and under one; + Put the left hand straw, over one, and under one; + Repeat this. + + +PLAT OF SEVEN. + + Double your straws; + Put the right hand first straw, over one, under one, and + over one; + Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, and over one. + + +ANOTHER PLAT OF SEVEN. + + Put the right hand straw, over one, and under two; + Put the left hand straw, over one, and under two; + Repeat this all along. + + +ANOTHER PLAT OF SEVEN. + + Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, and over one. + Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, and over one. + Repeat this. + + +PLAT OF EIGHT. + + Put the right hand straw, over one, and under two; + Put the left hand straw, over two, and under two; + Repeat this. + + +ANOTHER PLAT OF EIGHT. + + Put the right hand straw, over one, and under three; + Put the left hand straw, over one, and under two; + Repeat this. + + +ANOTHER PLAT OF EIGHT. + + Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, and over two; + Put the left hand straw, under one, and over two; + Repeat this. + + +PLAT OF NINE. + + Put the right hand straw, over one, under two, and over one; + Put the left hand straw, over one, under two, and over one; + Repeat this. + + +ANOTHER PLAT OF NINE. + + Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, over one, and + under one; + Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, over one, and + under one; + Repeat this. + + +ANOTHER PLAT OF NINE. + + Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, and over two; + Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, and over two; + Repeat this. + + +PLAT OF TEN. + + Put the right hand straw, over one, under two, and over two; + Put the left hand straw, over one, under two, and over one; + Repeat this. + + +ANOTHER PLAT OF TEN. + + Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, over one, and + under two; + Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, over one, and + under one; + Repeat this. + + +PLAT OF ELEVEN. + + Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, over one, + under one, and over one; + Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, over one, + under one, and over one; + Repeat this. + + +ANOTHER PLAT OF ELEVEN. + + Put the right hand straw, over three, under three; + Put the left hand straw, over three, and under one; + Continue thus all along. + + +ANOTHER PLAT OF ELEVEN. + + Put the right hand straw, over two, under two, and over two; + Put the left hand straw, over two, and under one; + Repeat this. + + +ANOTHER PLAT OF ELEVEN. + + Put the right hand straw, over one, under two, and over two; + Put the left hand straw, over one, under two, and over two; + Continue this. + + +PLAT OF TWELVE. + + Put the right hand straw, over one, under two, and over two; + Put the left hand straw, over one, under two, over two, and + under one; + Continue this. + + +PLAT OF THIRTEEN. + + Put the right hand straw, over one, and under two, over two; + Put the left hand straw, over one, under two, over two, and + under one. + + +ANOTHER PLAT OF THIRTEEN. + + Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, over three, + and under one; + Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, over three, + and under one; + Repeat this. + + +ANOTHER PLAT OF THIRTEEN. + + Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, over one, + under one, and over one; + Put the left hand straw over one, under one, over one, under + one, over one, under one, and over one. + Repeat the same. + + +PLAT OF FOURTEEN. + + Put the right hand straw, over one, under two, over two, + under two, and over one; + Put the left hand straw, over one, under two, and over two. + + +PLAT OF FIFTEEN. + + Put the right hand straw, over one, under two, and over two; + Put the left hand straw, over one, under two, and over two. + + +ANOTHER PLAT OF FIFTEEN. + + Put the right hand straw, over one, under one, over one, + under one, over one, under one, and over one; + Put the left hand straw, over one, under one, over one, + under one, over one, under one, and over one. + + +PLAT OF SIXTEEN. + + Put the right hand straw, over one, under three, over three, + and under one; + Put the left hand straw, over two, under three, and over + three; + Continue this. + + +HOLLOW SPIRAL STRAW WORK. + +This is used for ornamented bonnets, and when made with a great many +straws forms a basket, into which may be put fruit, and other small +light things. + +Take any number of uneven straws, from five upwards, to fifteen or +twenty-one. + +If five are taken, tie them securely together in a knot, and spread out +the straws, laying a pencil or other round thing upright upon the knot, +and begin working, making each straw as it is folded over, lie across +in a horizontal position. + + Lay one straw, across over two straws, + Miss the next straw, + Lay the next again across over two straws, + Again miss the next straw, + Repeat this continually until sufficient is made, and fasten + off. + + +THE TUSCAN HAT, COMMONLY CALLED LEGHORN BONNETS. + +The manufacture of straw bonnets is a considerable employment in +Tuscany. The platting is chiefly carried on in the neighbourhood of +Florence, Pisa, and Sienna. + +The straws used in working those flats, which is the term for large +flat circular plats, is grown in barren and mountainous districts, +and is produced from a kind of wheat, said to be like cape wheat, of +which the grain is very small. This straw, though slender, has much +consistency, and the upper part of the stalk being hollow is easily +dried. It is pulled out of the earth before the grain begins to form. +After being freed from the soil that adheres to the root, it is formed +into small sheaves for winnowing. The part above the last joint of the +stem is then plucked off, the ear remaining attached to it, this being +done, it is bleached alternately by the dew and the sun-shine; rain is +very injurious and destroys much of its proper colour. The lower parts +of the straw are treated in the same manner, and employed in forming +flats of an inferior quality. The upper parts, torn off just to the +knot, are sorted according to their degrees of fineness. This stapling +is made with much care, and usually affords straw of three different +prices. A quantity of straw worthbut 4½ _d._ will, after undergoing +this process, be sold for 4_s._ 7_d._ + +The tress is formed sometimes of seven or nine straws, but generally +of thirteen. For the latter number, tie them together at one end; then +divide them, placing six straws on the left side, and seven on the +right. The seventh or outermost on the right, is to be turned down +by the finger and thumb of the right hand, and brought up under two +straws, over two, and under two, thus seven straws will be placed on +the left hand; then the finger and thumb of the left hand is to turn +the seventh or outermost straw on the left side, and bring it up under +two straws, over two, and under two, and seven straws will again be +on the right hand, and so on alternately doubling and platting the +outermost seventh straw from side to side until it becomes too short +to cross over; then take another straw and put it under the short +end at the point of the angle, and by another straw coming over and +under the joined one from both sides of the angle, in the operation of +platting, it will become fastened; the short ends always being left out +underneath the plat. Continue until a piece of about twenty yards or +more, is completed. As fast as it is worked, it is rolled on a cylinder +of wood: when it is finished, the projecting ends and ears are cut off, +it is then passed with force between the hand and a piece of wood, cut +with a sharp edge to press and polish it. The tresses, when prepared, +are used so that a complete hat shall be made of one piece; they are +sewed together with raw silk; the diameter the of various kinds of hat +is in general the same; the only difference being in the degree of +fineness, and consequently the number of turns which the plat has to +make, varies. + +These hats have from twenty to eighty such turns, the number regulating +the price from 9s. to £20. + +The Tuscan plat, made from Italian straw, and Tuscan bonnets, have +since become a considerable manufacture in this country. + + +ENGLISH IMITATION LEGHORN FLAT. + +A kind of grass has been discovered in America, England, and in +Ireland, which, upon repeated trials, has been found to answer as well, +and is broke equally fine as the Tuscan straw. It is called the crested +dog’s tail, and grows on barren poor soils. Its flower stalks are so +remarkably harsh and tough that cattle will not touch them, and they +remain all the winter in the fields useless. They are called, in Irish, +trawnyeens; hence the Irish saying, “When a thing is useless, it is not +worth a trawnyeen.” This has been dried and platted, and made up by the +Irish, and it said likely to become a productive manufacture. + + +ARTICLES MADE UP OF STRAW PLAT. + + Bonnets of all descriptions and sizes. + Boy’s straw hats. + Boy’s straw caps. + Baskets and reticules. + Mats. + Basses. + Matting. + + +BONNETS. + +In making these up, begin by preparing the plat for the crown by +pulling out the edge, as the outer circle must be larger than the +inner one. Sew the plat, making long stitches on the wrong side, and +laying one plat about half or more under the preceding one. No good +directions for bonnet-making can be given in writing, it is therefore +recommended to the inexperienced to take a lesson from a bonnet maker, +or to pick an old one to pieces, as a kind of guide. When made up to +shape or pattern, the bonnet, if it requires it, is bleached in the +sulphur-box, after which, when quite dry, it is sponged all over, +inside and outside, with the stiffening prepared according to the +receipt mentioned below; when dry, another wash of stiffening is put +on, and then, when quite dry, spread a wet piece of jaconet muslin +over the bonnet, and press it with the box iron upon the bonnet block +until it is quite in proper shape. This pressing is very hard work, and +requires much strength and weight. The bonnet is then wired and papered. + + +RECEIPTS FOR STIFFENING. + +The best stiffening is that made of buffalo’s hide or vellum, which may +be procured in London and Liverpool, cut in shreds, and sold at 8_d._ a +pound. Others use bone-dust, ivory shavings, also isinglass for best, +and white glue for common bonnets. + + +VELLUM STIFFENING. + +Boil a quarter of a pound of vellum shavings in two quarts of soft +water for six or seven hours, filling it up occasionally until quite +glutinous, then let it stand a few minutes to settle, pour it out into +a basin, and it will become a thick jelly. A second two quarts of +water may be added to the sediment left in the pot, and after a second +boiling, will form a second quantity of almost as strong a jelly. + +When used, melt up a quart of the jelly, and add a sufficient quantity +of oxalic acid to make it white in the degree desired, a table spoonful +to a quart is a very good average measure for good bonnets, more is +required for the very best, and less for servants and school girls, &c. +This acid, if too strong, turns the straws a pink colour. + +Observe, that oxalic acid is a most dangerous poison, and should be +kept locked up in a safe place. + + +BONE-DUST STIFFENING. + +Put half a pint of bone-dust to half a pint of water, and boil it eight +hours; then strain it through a thick earn strainer into a basin, let +it stand about five minutes, and pour it very carefully into another +vessel, as there will be a sediment at the bottom. Put the stiffening +on the straw articles with a clean brush, making them quite wet. Hold +the bonnets before the fire a few minutes, pulling them into shape, and +afterwards hang them to dry for six hours, then with a sponge damp them +with warm water, and spread over them a fine cloth or handkerchief, and +press them well with a box iron. Take off the cloth, gloss the bonnets, +then wire and paper the crown. + +N.B. The white bonnets should have a little sugar of lead put in the +stiffening, and they should be steamed in the brimstone a second time, +after being made up, previous to being stiffened. + + +ON CLEANING BONNETS. + +Take out the wires, and wash the bonnet with common brown soap and +water. Bleach them with stone brimstone; a bit the size of a walnut is +sufficient for twelve bonnets, dry, and mend them; if required, stiffen +them according to the receipt and press them. + + +ON TURNING BONNETS. + +The bonnet is picked to pieces, and the plat turned, so that which was +inside is then outwards, the bonnet should be cleaned well before being +unpicked. + + +HATS. + +Men’s and boy’s hats are easily made of straw, and the brims may be +narrow or broad, at pleasure; baby’s straw hats are generally looped up +with a plat loop. + +Boy’s caps may be made of straw also, and are very serviceable. + + +MATS. + +These are made of plats also, and may be made round or oblong for the +table, as also for door mats. The latter requires a very wide plat. + +Very pretty mats may be made of fine straws or rushes, about twenty +taken in the hand at once, and connected together in a similar manner +as the straw work of a bee-hive, either with very fine split osiers, +which are passed through the straws easily when a hole is bored through +with a kind of packing needle threaded with twine; braid answers very +well indeed. The stitches should be very regular, and if for a circle +or oval, observe to let the stitches radiate from the centre. Baskets +look very pretty when made in this way, also church basses, which also +are made of straw plats, and sewed over sackcloth after it is made to +the shape of a cushion, and properly filled with bits of straw, bran, +or flock, &c. + + +BOBBIN MAKING. + +PLATE 24. FIG. 53, 54, 55. + +This is done on a cushion, and with bobbin handles similar to those +used by lace makers; Fig. 54, a cushion stuffed with wool is firmer +than one of feathers, it is rather heavier, but that is not an +objection. The cost of the bobbin handles is four-pence each, and there +are nine required. It is preferable to have the handles made with two +_necks_, any turner accustomed to make lace bobbins will know what is +meant. + +The best cotton for use is knitting cotton, and for very broad bobbin, +a double thread of middling fineness is preferable to a single coarse +one. It is done as follows:— + +Let the nine threads be tied together, and fastened upon the top of the +cushion with a stout pin; Fig. 53, then separate them so that five fall +on one side, and four on the other. Fig. 55. + +The object is to pass No. 9 _over_ Nos. 7 and 8, and under Nos. 5 and +6; therefore, take up the two latter bobbins in the right hand, No. 5 +between the thumb and first finger, and No. 6 between the first and +second fingers; the thumb and first finger may, notwithstanding, grasp +No. 9, and throw it over Nos. 7 and 8 to the left hand side of the +cushion, next to No. 4. Lay Nos. 5 and 6 in the places from which they +were raised, and perform the same process described with the left hand, +taking up Nos. 9 and 4, and passing No. 1 across to the right hand. +The bobbin, as it is made, may be wound several times round a card at +the top of the cushion, and then passed under a large pin. Fasten on +a single thread, by tying the two ends together, and looping it round +a pin stuck just above where you are at work, it is thus perfectly +strong, and a knot does not occur in the bobbin. + +The outer thread to the left hand, over two, and under two; the same +with the right hand. + + + + +INDEX. + + + Page + + ANGULAR STITCH, see _Stitches in Needlework_ + APRONS, 76 + —— Clear Muslin, 77 + —— Common for Ladies, 78 + —— Working, ib. + —— Cooking, 79 + —— Dress, 76 + —— Evening, 78 + —— Frilled, 77 + —— Gentleman’s Working, 79 + —— Grocers’, ib. + —— Hollowed at the bottom, 77 + —— Muslin, ib. + —— Nursery, 17 + —— Pantry, 79, 179 + —— Silk, 77 + —— Pockets, 78 + —— with Bibs, ib. + —— with Shoulder-straps, 79 + ARTICLES USED IN THE LAUNDRY, see _Washing_ + ARTICLES USED IN THE WASH-HOUSE, see _Washing_ + + BABY LINEN, 16 + —— —— General Observations on, 17 + —— —— Articles necessary for Wardrobe, 16 + —— —— —— for lending the Poor, 17 + —— —— Band, 28 + —— —— Basket for Nursery, 44 + —— —— Bassinette Cover, 41 + —— —— Bib, 38 + —— Bodies, full, for Robes, 33 + —— —— Plain, 34 + —— —— Fancy, ib. + —— Bottle, Leather suck of, 45 + —— Caps, material for, 17 + —— —— Day, 20 + —— —— Flannel, 19 + —— —— Foundling, 18 + —— —— Full French, 21 + —— —— French, ib. + —— —— Horse-shoe, ib. + —— with Runners, 19 + —— Cloak, Flannel, 38, + —— —— Silk or Merino, 38 + —— Cockades, 22 + —— Cot, Hanging, 43 + —— —— Travelling, ib. + —— Cradle and Cover, 42 + —— Crib and Cover, ib. + —— Crib, or Cradle Furniture, 44 + —— Chair for Day, 45 + —— —— for Travelling, Night, 46 + —— Frocks and Robes, 32 + —— Gowns, First Flannel, 25 + —— —— Another, 26 + —— —— for the Poor, ib. + —— —— Second size Night-Flannel, 27 + —— —— First size Day Flannel, ib. + —— —— Another, 28 + —— —— First Calico Night Gown, 29 + —— —— Another, 30 + —— Another, ib. + —— Hood, for Boy or Girl, 40 + —— Napkins, 29 + —— —— Another sort, ib. + —— Pelisse, 38 + —— —— Long, 39 + —— —— Summer, 40 + —— Petticoats, 32 + —— Pilcher, 28 + —— Pincushion, 45 + —— Pinafores, 30 + —— —— with Lappets, 31 + —— —— Waste Not, ib. + —— —— Tidy, or Dress, ib. + —— Receiver, 37 + —— Robes, 32 + —— Rosettes, 22 + —— Savers, 28 + —— Shawl, 37 + —— Shirts, First Open, 22 + —— —— Close, or Second, 23 + —— Sleeves, the Round, 35 + —— —— the Common, ib. + —— —— the Triangular, 36 + —— ——, Long, 37 + —— Skirts, 33 + BADGE, Clergyman’s, 149 + —— School Girl’s, 214 + BANDS, Clergyman’s, 150 + —— Infant’s, 28 + BAGS, Boot, 210 + —— Brush and Comb, 209 + —— Clothes + —— Family, 1 + —— Night Gown, 208 + —— Nursery, 210 + —— Rag, 15 + —— Travelling, 214 + —— Work, 213 + BASKETS, lending out for the Poor, 17 + —— Nursery, 44 + —— Work, how to line, 214 + —— —— for Servants, 15 + BATHING GOWN, 61 + —— Cap, 68 + BEDS, see _Upholstery_ + BELTS, Men’s, 83 + —— Hunter’s, ib. + —— Coachmen’s, ib. + BIASSING, see _Stitches in Needlework_ + BINDING, see _Stitches in Needlework_ + BLANKETS, see _Upholstery_ + BLEACHING LIQUID, see _Receipts_ + BLEACH Linen, Wool, &c., see _Receipts_ + BLINDS, see _Upholstery_ + BLUE CHECKS, 12 + BOA, fur, 176 + BOBBIN, making, 290 + BOLSTERS, making, see _Upholstery_ + BOOK Cases, 211 + —— Covers, 211 + BOMBAZINE, to clean, see _Receipts_ + BONNETS, Children’s, 150 + —— —— soft, for young, ib. + —— —— drawn up, 151 + —— —— soft, for two years old, 151 + —— —— soft, for three years old, 152 + —— —— soft, for four or five years old, 153 + —— —— soft, for eight years old, 151 + —— —— soft, another sort, 153 + —— Women’s, 158 + —— —— Another shape, 159 + —— Member of the Society of Friends, 160 + —— For a Servant, ib. + —— School Girls, 161 + BOX Clothes, see _House Linen_ + —— Tin, 15 + —— Work, 15 + —— Carriage, 16 + BRAIDING, see _Stitches in Needlework_ + BRASS Ornaments, to preserve, see _Receipts_ + BREAKFAST CLOTHS, see _House Linen_ + BRIDAL FAVOURS, 170 + BROAD HEMS, rules for cutting out, 14 + BUGS, to destroy and prevent, see _Receipts_ + BUSTLES, 83 + BUTTON Holes, see _Stitches in Needlework_ + BUTTONS, to make, 5 + —— How to keep, 1 + + CALICO, on choosing, see _Purchasing Goods_ + CALICO FURNITURE, to clean, see _Receipts_ + CALÈCHE, or Woman’s large Hood, 162 + CAMBRIC, on choosing, see _Purchasing Goods_ + CANDLESTICK Case, 212 + CAPS for Infants, see _Baby Linen_ + —— for Boys, 153 + —— Soft and Light, 154 + —— —— Porringer, Cloth, ib. + —— —— for a Young Child, ib. + —— —— Another, ib. + —— for an Infant Boy, ib. + —— for a Boy of six years old, 155 + —— Another, ib. + —— for a Boy of seven or eight, 156 + —— for an older Boy, ib. + —— Boy’s neat, 157 + —— Gentleman’s Travelling, 156 + —— Another, ib. + —— for a Lady or Gentleman, 157 + —— Lady’s Riding, ib. + —— Workman’s Paper, ib. + CAPS of Muslin, or Thick Material, 61 + —— Woman’s, Day or Night, 62 + —— —— very neat Night, ib. + —— Young Servant’s Day, 63 + —— Very neat shape, 64 + —— Another, ib. + —— School Girl’s, 65 + —— Favourite Lady’s Night, ib. + —— Neat Day or Night, 66 + —— Another, ib. + —— An Old Woman’s, ib. + —— A Poor Woman’s Night, 67 + —— A Neat Old Fashioned, ib. + —— Bathing, 68 + CAPS of a thin material, as Net, &c., 124 + —— Day, 124 + —— for a Young Lady, 125 + —— Morning, ib. + —— Undress, ib. + —— Dress Morning, 126 + —— Plain, for an Elderly Lady, ib. + —— for a Member of the Society of Friends, ib. + —— for an Elderly Friend, 127 + —— Bonnet, ib. + —— another Shape, ib. + —— Helmet Morning, ib. + —— Bonnet Cap, 128 + —— another Shape, 129 + —— Handkerchief Bonnet, 128 + —— Bonnet Cap for a Child, 129 + —— Widows, ib. + —— Velvet, 130 + —— Silk, ib. + —— Half-Cap, or Lappets, 129 + CAPES, see _Collars_ + CAPETTE, 129 + CARE of a Lady’s Wardrobe, 119 + —— of a Gentleman’s Wardrobe, 121 + CARD CASE, or Sachet, 212 + CARPETS, see _Upholstery_ + —— to Scour, see _Receipts_ + CARRIAGE Cloths, see _House Linen_ + CHAIN-STITCH, see _Stitches in Needlework_ + —— Fancy, ib. + —— on Gathers, 9 + CHAIR for Invalids, 216 + —— and other Covers, see _Upholstery_ + CHAMBER BOTTLE Cloths, see _House Linen_ + CHAMBER BUCKET Cloths, see _House Linen_ + CHEAT, Boy’s, 147 + CHECKS, see _Purchasing Goods_ + CHEESE CLOTHS, see _House Linen_ + CHEMISETTE, 97 + CHINA CLOTHS, see _House Linen_ + CHINTZES, see _On Purchasing Goods_ + —— to Clean, see _Receipts_ + CHURCH SEATS and BASSES, see _Upholstery_ + CLEAN, Curtains, see _Receipts_ + —— Gold and Silver Lace, ib. + —— Gloves, ib. + —— Shoes, ib. + —— Sponges, ib. + —— Hair Brushes, ib. + —— Paint, ib. + —— Cotton, Woollen, Silk, ib. + CLEAR STARCHING, see _Washing_ + CLERGYMAN’S Dress, 147 + —— Cassock, ib. + —— Gown, ib. + —— Surplice, 149 + —— Sash, or Badge, ib. + —— Scarf, or Hood, ib. + —— Bands, ib. + CLERK’S Gown, 150 + CLOAKS, Infants’, 38 + —— Womans’, 163 + —— —— Short, or Mantelet, 164 + —— —— Carriage, ib. + —— —— Garden, ib. + —— —— Servants, ib. + —— Old Woman’s, and Hood, ib. + —— School Girls’, 165 + —— Boys’, ib. + CLOTH, see _On Purchasing Goods_ + CLOTHES BAG, see _House Linen_ + COCKADES, 22 + COLLARETTE, 98 + COLLARS, Gentlemens’, 145 + —— Boys’, 146 + —— General Rules for Cutting, 14 + —— Women’s, 93 + —— —— Round, 94 + —— —— another, 99 + —— for Infants, 94 + —— Square, 95 + —— Mourning, 99 + —— for a Cloak, 94 + —— to wear over a Shawl, ib. + —— a very Pretty one, 95 + —— for Walking in, ib. + —— Morning, 95 + —— for a Habit-Shirt, 97 + —— Pointed, ib. + COMB BAG, 209 + COMPLETING WORK, General Rules, 10 + COOKING CLOTHS, see _House Linen_ + CORONATION BRAID, 8 + CORSETS, see _Stays_, 180 + CORD, sewn on, 8 + CORAL PATTERN, see _Stitches in Needlework_ + COT for Infants, 43 + —— or Hammock, 198 + COTTONS, to Clean, see _Receipts_ + —— Sewing, how to keep, 1 + —— —— how worked, ib. + COVERS, CASES, &c., 208 + COUNTERPANES, see _Upholstery_ + COURT PLAISTER, to make, see _Receipts_ + COVERLETS, see _Upholstery_ + CRACK, on mending one, 4 + CRAPE, see _On Purchasing Goods_ + CRADLE, 42 + CRAVAT, 147 + CRIB, 42 + CROSSWISE, how to Cut, 14 + CURTAINS, see _Upholstery_ + —— Moreen to Clean, see _Receipts_ + CUFFS, Tidy, 75 + —— Morning, ib. + —— Satin, ib. + —— Dress, ib. + —— Double, 76 + —— Mourning, ib. + —— Muslin, ib. + —— Mourning, ib. + —— another Shape, ib. + CUTTING OUT, General Rules, 14 + CUTTING OUT Dresses, 107 + + DARNING, see _Stitches in Needlework_ + DINNER NAPKINS, 179 + DIVAN, see _Upholstery_ + DOUBLE HERRING-BONING, 9 + DOWN, see _Fur_, 175 + DRAWERS, see _Trowsers_, 50 + —— Women’s, 53 + —— Women’s, ib. + —— Men’s, 54 + DRAPERY, see _Upholstery_ + DRESSES, see _Gowns_, 106 + —— see _Frocks_, 32 + DRESSING-GOWNS, Men’s, 68 + —— —— Plain, ib. + —— —— Cloak, 70 + —— —— Ladies’, 69 + —— Jacket, 70 + —— Case, or Tidy for Travelling, 208 + DRESSER CLOTHS, see _House Linen_ + DUSTERS, see _House Linen_ + DOYLEYS, ib. + DYE Cotton Nankeen, see _Receipts_ + —— Furniture, ib. + —— Gloves, ib. + + EAU DE COLOGNE, see _Receipts_ + + FANCY BOBBIN EDGING, see _Stitches on Needlework_ + —— Button-hole Stitch, ib. + —— Chain-stitch, ib. + —— Herring-bone Stitch, ib. + FIANCEE, or Neck Tie, 79 + FLANNEL, see _On Purchasing Goods_ + —— Scouring, see _Upholstery_ + FLANNEL, Petticoats, Women’s, 72 + —— —— Small Size, ib. + —— —— Girl’s Large Size, ib. + —— —— Smaller, ib. + —— —— Ten years old, ib. + —— —— Six years old, ib. + FLEAS, to Destroy, see _Receipts_ + FLIES, to Destroy, see _Receipts_ + FLOUNCES, Rules for Cutting, 14 + FOOTSTOOLS, see _Upholstery_ + FRENCH POLISH, see _Receipts_ + FRILLS, 74 + —— General Rules for Cutting, 14 + —— Simple, ib. + —— Neat, ib. + —— Crimped, ib. + —— For Children, ib. + —— Dress, ib. + —— Otherwise called Ruche, ib. + FROCKS, Infant’s, see _Baby Linen_ + —— Child’s simple, 114 + —— —— full, ib. + —— —— simple, three-quarters, 115 + —— —— plain, ib. + —— —— full, 116 + —— —— Morning, ib. + —— —— for a Boy, ib. + —— —— jean tunic, 117 + —— —— surtout, ib. + FRONT for Shirts, 147 + FUNERAL, articles worn at, 123 + FUR AND DOWN, 175 + —— Muff, 176 + —— Boa, ib. + —— Tippet, 177 + —— Opera, ib. + —— How to clean, ib. + —— To clean Down, ib. + —— How to Preserve, see _Receipts_, 177 + FURNITURE, Hints on Buying, see _Receipts_ + + GAGING, see _Stitches in Needlework_ + GATHERING, see _Stitches in Needlework_ + GAUFERING, see _On Washing_ + GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON NEEDLEWORK, 1 + GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BABY LINEN, 17 + —— —— ON COMPLETING WORK, 10 + —— —— ON CUTTING OUT, 14 + —— —— ON GENTLEMAN’S WARDROBE, 121 + —— —— ON LADY’S WARDROBE, 119 + —— —— ON LINEN PRESS, 187 + —— —— ON NEEDLEWORK, 1 + —— —— ON PURCHASING WORK, 11 + —— —— ON PACKING, 121 + GENERAL RULES FOR COMPLETING WORK, 10 + GERMAN HEMMING, see _Stitches in Needlework_ + GINGHAMS, see _On Purchasing Goods_ + GLOVES, 175 + —— to Wash, see _Receipts_ + —— to Clean, ib. + —— to Dye, ib. + —— Cases, 209 + GLUE, How to make, see _Receipts_ + GOWNS, 106 + —— General Observations on, ib. + —— On Cutting out, 197 + —— Side pieces, 108 + —— Back Shoulder-pieces, ib. + —— Shoulder straps, ib. + —— Skirts, 109 + —— Plain high body, ib. + —— Full French body, ib. + —— Wrapping high body, 110 + —— High, to open in front, ib. + —— Another pattern, 111 + —— Plain low body, ib. + —— Another French low front, ib. + —— Trimming low bodies, ib. + —— French low full body, 112 + —— Grecian low body, ib. + —— A simple low body, 113 + —— Full low body, ib. + —— Select dresses, ib. + —— Nursing, ib. + —— Bathing, 61 + GOWN, Clergyman’s, 148 + —— Clerk’s, 150 + GRAVE CLOTHES, 124 + GREASE, to Remove, see _Receipts_ + GUSSETS, to Cut, 14 + + HAM AND BACON BAGS, see _House Linen_ + HATS AND CAPS, 153 + HAT LININGS, 14 + HAT-BANDS, 123 + HABIT-SHIRTS, 99 + HEAVY PINCUSHIONS, 15 + HEMMING, see _Stitches in Needlework_ + HERRING-BONEING, ib. + HONEY-COMBING, ib. + HOOD, Oiled Silk, 162 + HORSE-SHOE STITCH, see _Stitches on Needlework_ + HOUSE LINEN, 178 + —— —— Bed-Room Linen, ib. + —— —— —— —— Sheets, 181 + —— —— —— —— Pillow Cases, 183 + —— —— —— —— Towels, ib. + —— —— —— —— Toilet Covers, ib. + —— —— —— —— Pincushions, ib. + —— —— Table Linen, 179 + —— —— —— —— Table Cloths, 183 + —— —— —— —— Dinner Napkins, ib. + —— —— —— —— —— how to fold, ib. + —— —— —— —— Doyleys, 184 + —— —— —— —— Large Tray Napkins, 179 + —— —— —— —— Small ditto ditto, ib. + —— —— Pantry Linen, ib. + —— —— —— —— Knife-box Cloths, 184 + —— —— —— —— —— Pantry Cloths, ib. + —— —— —— —— Dresser Cloths, ib. + —— —— —— —— Plate-basket Cloths, ib. + —— —— —— China Cloths, ib. + —— —— —— Glass Cloths, ib. + —— —— —— Lamp Clothes, 185 + —— —— —— Aprons, ib. + —— —— —— Waiting Gloves, ib. + —— —— House-maids’ Linen, 180 + —— —— —— House Dusters, 185 + —— —— —— Scouring Flannel, ib. + —— —— —— Paint Cloths, ib. + —— —— —— Chamber Bottle do., ib. + —— —— —— —— bucket do., ib. + —— —— —— Clothes Bags, ib. + —— —— —— Pinafores, 185 + —— —— Kitchen Linen, 180 + —— —— —— Table Cloths, 186 + —— —— —— Dresser Cloths, ib. + —— —— —— Cooking Cloths, 180 + —— —— —— Roller Towels, 180, 186 + —— —— —— Dusters, ib. ib. + —— —— —— Tea Cloths, ib. ib. + —— —— —— Knife Cloths, ib. ib. + —— —— —— Pudding Cloths, ib. ib. + —— —— —— Jelly Bags, ib. ib. + —— —— —— Ham and Bacon Bags, ib. ib + —— —— —— Cheese Cloths, ib. ib. + —— —— Stable Linen, 180 + —— —— —— Carriage Cloths, ib. + —— —— —— Paint Cloths, ib. + —— —— —— Flannels, ib. + —— —— —— Saddle-Cases, ib. + —— —— General Observations, ib. + —— ——, Remarks, 180 + HOUSEWIFE, 212 + + INFANT’S WARDROBE, 16 + IMITATION OF MAPLE WOOD, see _Receipts_ + INDIA RUBBER VARNISH, ib. + INK, Marking, to Make, ib. + —— —— to Remove Spots of, ib. + IRON-MOULDS, to Remove, ib. + + JACKET, Woman’s Night, 55 + —— —— Dressing, 70 + JELLY BAGS, see _House Linen_ + + KNIFE AND FORK CASE, 211 + KNITTING, see _separate Index_ + + LADDER, on taking up, 4 + LAMP CLOTHS, see _House Linen_ + LAPPETS, 129 + LAVENDER WATER, to Make, see _Receipts_ + LAWN, see _On Purchasing Goods_ + LENDING LINEN, for the Poor, 17 + LEGGETS, 52 + LINEN, see _On Purchasing Goods_ + LINEN, Baby, 16 + —— Men and Women’s, 46 + —— House, 178 + —— Press, 187 + LININGS, 14 + + MANTUA-MAKER’S HEM, see _Stitches in Needlework_ + MARKING, ib. + MANTELET, 164 + MAT, 210 + MATTRESSES, see _Upholstery_ + MENDING A CRACK, 4 + MILDEW, to remove, see _Receipts_ + MODESTY, 102 + MOURNING, 122 + MUFF, 176 + + NAPKINS, Infants, see _Baby Linen_ + —— Dinner, see _House Linen_ + NEEDLES, How to keep, 1 + NEEDLE CASE, 15 & 213 + NEEDLEWORK, Observations on, 1 + NECK-TIE, 79 + NECK HANDKERCHIEF, 169 + NIGHT-JACKET, 55 + —— Gown, 56 + —— Another pattern, 57 + —— —— Gored, ib. + NIGHT-GOWN BAG, 208 + —— Chair, 45 + NOSEGAY CASE, 212 + NURSERY BAG, 210 + + OPERA, or Ruff, see _Fur_, 177 + + PACKING, Directions for, 120 + PAINT Cloths, see _House Linen_ + —— Spots, to remove, see _Receipts_ + PELERINES, see _Collars_, 100 + —— long, 101 + —— —— Frill for, ib. + —— Morning, 100 + —— Handsome, 193 + PELISSE, Baby’s, see _Baby Linen_ + —— Child’s, 118 + PETTICOATS, Flannel, 72 + —— Calico, &c., 104 + —— Skirts for, ib. + —— Bodies or waists, ib. + —— Nursing, 105 + —— Pieces, fulled in bands, how to cut, 15 + PILLOWS, see _Upholstery_ + PILLOW CASES, see _House Linen_ + PINAFORES and Saccarines, 130 + —— Child’s Surtout, ib. + —— —— Close or Smock-Frock, 131 + —— —— Large sized, 132 + —— —— —— for Boys, ib. + —— —— Saccarines, 133 + —— Housemaid’s, 134 & 180 + —— School Girl’s, 135 + —— Child’s, 135 + —— Surgeon’s, ib. + —— Waggoner’s Smock, 136 + PINCUSHIONS, Nursery, see _Baby Linen_ + —— heavy, 15 + —— other sorts, 213 + —— covers, see _House Linen_ + PIPING, see _Stitches in Needlework_ + —— how to cut, 14 + PITCH and Oil spots to remove, see _Receipts_ + PLAITING, see _Stitches in Needlework_ + PLATE-BASKET BAG, see _House Linen_ + PLATTING, see _Straw Work_ + POCKETS, 73 + —— for Aprons, 78 + —— Watch, 216 + —— Handkerchiefs, 170 + —— —— Case, 209 + PORTFOLIO for a Carriage, 215 + —— for travelling, ib. + POWDER for Infant’s Dust bags see _Receipts_ + POT-POURRI, ib. + PRESERVE Linen, Woollen, Furs, &c., ib. + PREPARE Rabbit Skins, ib. + PRINTS, see _On Purchasing Goods_ + PUDDING CLOTHS, see _House Linen_ + PUFFING, see _Stitches in Needle-Work_ + PURCHASING GOODS, 11 + —— —— Blue Checks, 12 + —— —— Calico, ib. + —— —— Cambric, ib. + —— —— Cloth, 13 + —— —— Crape, 13 + —— —— Flannels, ib. + —— —— Lawn, 12 + —— —— Linen, ib. + —— —— Muslin Checks, ib. + —— —— Prints, Chintzes, &c., 13 + —— —— Satins, ib. + —— —— Silks, ib. + —— —— Stuffs, ib. + + QUILTING, see _Stitches in Needle-Work_ + + RAISE THE SURFACE OF VELVET, see _Receipts_ + RECEIVER, see _Baby Linen_ + RECEIPTS, 217 + —— Balls to remove Grease, 229 + —— Another Receipt, ib. + —— Bleaching Liquid, 218 + —— Bleach Wool, 229 + —— Bleach Yellow Linen, 223 + —— Blonde to Wash, 223 + —— —— Town Washed, 223 + —— —— Wool, 229 + —— Brass Ornaments to keep, 233 + —— Bugs to prevent, 227 + —— Bugs to destroy, ib. + —— Carpets to scour, 222 + —— Clean Bombazine, 221 + —— —— Brass Ornaments, 233 + —— —— Cotton Silk, Woollen, 229 + —— —— —— —— —— 221 + —— —— Chintz, 222 + —— —— Curtains, Moreen, 229 + —— —— Calico Furniture, 222 + —— —— Gold and Silver Lace, 225 + —— —— Hair Brushes, 234 + —— —— Kid Gloves, 234, 224 + —— —— Paint, 230 + —— —— Satin Shoes, 224 + —— —— Sponges, 232 + —— Cloth to make Waterproof, 228 + —— Court Plaister, to make, 226 + —— Dye Cotton and Nankeen, 224 + —— —— Furniture buff, ib. + —— —— —— pink, 225 + —— —— —— blue, ib. + —— Leather (wash for), 224 + —— —— Gloves like tan, ib. + —— —— —— purple, ib. + —— Eau de Cologne, 226 + —— Fleas, to destroy, 227 + —— Flies, to destroy, ib. + —— French polish for Furniture, 233 + —— —— —— Boots and Harness, 228 + —— Fur, to preserve, 225 + —— Furniture, hints on buying, 230 + —— Grease to remove from Silk, 220 + —— Another Receipt, ib. + —— —— from Silk or Woollen, ib. + —— —— from Linen, 229 & ib. + —— Glue to make, 232 + —— Imitation of Maple wood, 233 + —— Indian Rubber Varnish, 231 + —— Ink, permanent marking, 217 + —— —— red marking, ib. + —— —— to remove spots of, ib. + —— —— to remove, common, 218 + —— —— from Cloth, &c., ib. + —— —— Iron-moulds, to remove, 222 + —— —— Lavender water to make, 226 + —— Mildew to take out, 221 + —— Paint spots, to remove, ib. + —— Pitch and Oil spots to remove, 220 + —— Powder for Infant’s dust bags, 226 + —— Pot-pourri, ib. + —— —— quicker sort, ib. + —— Prepare Rabbit skins, 227 + —— Preserve Linen from Moths, 225 + —— —— Woollens and Blankets, ib. + —— —— Furs, ib. + —— —— Blonde, Satin, &c., 224 + —— —— Gilt Frames, 228 + —— Raise the Surface of Velvet, 226 + —— Restore rusty Silk, 221 + —— —— Scorched Linen, 222 + —— Revive Gilt Frames, 228 + —— Another Method, ib. + —— Salts of Lemon, to make, 218 + —— Scent Bags, 226 + —-— Scouring Drops to make, 220 + —— Another kind, 233 + —— —— —— Cheap, ib. + —— Shoes to make Waterproof, 226 + —— Stains to remove, from acids, 219 + —— —— Another Receipt, ib. + —— —— Fruit or Wine, ib. + —— —— Port Wine, ib. + —— —— Out of Scarlet Cloth, ib. + —— —— Black Cloth, Silk, &c., ib. + —— Starch, to Make, 226 + —— Varnish old Straw Hats, 225 + —— Wash black Silk or Crape, 223 + —— —— Silk Handkerchiefs, 222 + —— —— coloured Prints, Muslins, 223 + —— —— Blonde, ib. + —— —— Lace, 224 + —— —— Kid Gloves, 224 & 234 + —— —— Leather Gloves, 224 + —— —— Silk Dresses, 230 + —— Waterproof, to make Shoes, 226 & 228 + —— —— to make Cloth, 228 + RESTORE RUSTY SILK, see _Receipts_ + —— Scorched linen, ib. + ROBES, Infant’s, see _Baby Linen_ + ROLLER CLOTHS, see _House Linen_ + ROQUELAURE, 164 + ROSETTE, see _Baby Linen_ + ROULEAUS, 8 + RUCHE, 74 + RUNNING, see _Stitches in Needlework_ + + SACCARINE, see _Pinafore_ + SATCHEL, or Card Case, 212 + SALTS OF LEMON, see _Receipts_ + SASH, or Badge, 149 + SATIN, see _On Purchasing Goods_ + SCARFS, Clergyman’s, 149 + —— Dress, or Caprice, 80 + —— Cashmere, ib. + —— Simple, ib. + SCENT BAGS, see _Receipts_ + SCISSORS, Remarks upon, 1 & 15 + SCOURING FLANNEL, 180 + —— Drops, see _Receipts_ + SCREENS, see _Upholstery_ + SEAMAN’S CASE, 215 + SENTIMENT, or Neck Tie, 79 + SERPENTINE STITCH, see _Stitches in Needlework_ + SEWING SILKS, How kept, 1 + SEWING and Felling, see _Stitches in Needlework_ + SHOULDER Pieces, or Stays, how cut, 15 + SHIFTS Gored, 46 + —— Not hollowed, 47 + —— Crossed, 48 + —— Child’s ... ib. + —— To save a seam and two fells, 49 + SHIRTS, Infant’s see _Baby Linen_ + —— For Labouring Men, 137 + —— Scales for, 139 + —— On making up, 141 + —— Gentlemen’s, 142 + —— —— Fronts, 143 + —— Young Child’s Front, ib. + —— A Boy’s Front, ib. + —— An older Boy’s Front, ib. + —— Another, ib. + —— A Gentleman’s Front, ib. + —— Another, 144 + —— Shoulder-Strap, ib. + —— Child’s Shoulder-Strap, ib. + —— Sleeves, ib. + —— Wristbands, 145 + —— Binders and Linings, ib. + —— Collars, ib. + —— Boy’s Collars, 146 + —— Men’s Collars, ib. + SHAWLS, Infant’s, see _Baby Linen_ + —— Carriage, 166 + —— Walking, ib. + —— For a Member of the Society of Friends, ib. + —— Quilted, ib. + —— Cashmere, ib. + —— Mourning, 167 + —— Plain walking, ib. + —— Travelling, ib. + SHEETS, see _House Linen_ + SHOES, SLIPPERS, 171 + —— —— Men’s, ib. + —— —— Ladies’, ib. + —— —— Quilted, 172 + —— —— Ladies’, ib. + —— —— Half, 173 + —— —— Carriage, ib. + —— —— Infants’ first, ib. + —— —— —— second, ib. + —— —— —— Ticking, 174 + —— To Cover, ib. + —— To Clean, see _Receipts_ + —— Bags 186 + SHOULDER-PIECES, 91 + —— —— For Woman’s Cloak, 92 + —— —— For a Child’s Cloak, ib. & 93 + —— —— —— Woman’s Cloak, ib. + —— —— —— Infant’s Cloak, 93 + SHROUD, 124 + SILK, see _On Purchasing Goods_ + —— sewing, how to keep, 1 + SLEEVES, Infant’s first, see _Baby Linen_ + —— General Rules, 15 + —— Child’s first, 85 + —— Older Child’s, ib. + —— Long, 86 + —— Circular, ib. + —— Plain long, 87 + —— Full, ib. + —— Another, ib. + —— Small, 88 + —— Old Woman’s, ib. + —— Boy’s, ib. + —— Woman’s large, ib. + —— —— short, 89 + —— —— short, 90 + —— —— circular, ib. + —— —— tight, ib. + —— On lining, 6 + SLIPS, or Pillow Cases, 182 + SOFA, see _Upholstery_ + SPENCERS, Plain, 167 + —— Dress, 168 + STARCH, to make, see _Receipts_ + STAYS, or Corsets, 80 + —— —— materials for, 81 + —— —— making up, ib. + —— Woman’s, ib. + —— —— gores for, 82 + —— —— shoulder straps, ib. + —— —— lace-holes, ib. + —— —— modesty-piece, ib. + —— —— nursing, ib. + —— Men’s, 83 + —— Coachmen’s, ib. + —— Hunter’s, ib. + —— Child’s small, ib. + —— —— large, ib. + —— —— first, see _Baby Linen_ + STAINS, to remove, see _Receipts_ + —— —— from acids, ib. + —— —— from fruit or wine, ib. + —— —— from Port wine, ib. + —— —— out of scarlet cloth, ib. + —— —— out of black cloth, ib. + STEEL, How to keep, 1 + STITCHES IN NEEDLEWORK, 1 + —— Angular stitch, 9 + —— Biassing, 6 + —— Binding, 7 + —— Braiding, 6 + —— Button-holes, 3 + —— Chain-stitch, 8 + —— Coral pattern, 10 + —— Darning, 4 + —— Double gathering, 2 + —— Fancy Chain-stitch, 8 + —— Fancy Bobbin-stitch, 9 + —— Fancy Herring-boning, ib. + —— Fancy Button-hole stitch, 10 + —— Gaging, 7 + —— Gathering, 2 + —— German hemming, 3 + —— Hemming, 1 + —— Herring-boning, 4 + —— Honey-combing, 7 + —— Horseshoe-stitch, 10 + —— Mantua-maker’s hem, 2 + —— Marking, 5 + —— Quilting, 7 + —— Running, 2 + —— Serpentine stitch, 9 + —— Sewing and felling, 2 + —— Stitching, ib. + —— Whipping, 3 + STOCKS, 147 + STRAW PLATTING, see _Separate Index_ + STUFFS, see _On Purchasing Goods_ + SUCK, to Baby’s bottle, 45 + SURPLICE, 149 + SURTOUT, 117 + + TABLE CLOTHS, see _House Linen_ + TABLE COVERS, see _Upholstery_ + TAPES, How to keep, 1 + TEA CLOTHS, see _House Linen_ + THIMBLE, Remarks upon, 1 + THREAD, How to strengthen, 1 + —— How to keep, ib. + TIPPETS, see _Collars_ + —— School Girl’s, 99 + —— Another, 104 + —— Another, 168 + TOILET Covers, see _House Linen_ + TOWELS, see _House Linen_ + TRAVELLING DRESSING-CASE, 215 + —— Portfolio, ib. + —— Bag, 214 + TROWSERS, Child’s, 50 + —— —— larger, 51 + —— Girl’s, ib. + —— Boy or Girl’s, 52 + —— Turkish, 54 + —— For a little Boy, ib. + TRUNK CASE, 211 + TUCKS, Making, 5 + TUCKER, 97 + TUNICS, see _Frocks_ + + UPHOLSTERY, 190 + —— Arm chair Covers, 206 + —— Bedsteads, 190 + —— —— Hints on putting up, 191 + —— —— On Drapery, 193 + —— —— On Heads and tops, 195 + —— —— On Footboards, ib. + —— —— On furnishing, 4 posts, 193 + —— —— On Prices, 199 + —— —— On Coverlets, 200 + —— —— On Blankets, ib. + —— Beds, the Tent, 191 195 + —— —— Camp, ib. ib. + —— —— Half-tester, ib, 196 + —— —— French Pole, ib. ib. + —— —— French Arrow, ib. ib. + —— —— French, ib. ib. + —— —— French Block, ib. ib. + —— —— French Canopy, ib, 197 + —— —— Turn-up, ib. ib. + —— —— Press, ib. ib. + —— —— Stump, ib. ib. + —— —— Trestle, ib. ib. + —— —— Hanging, or Cot, 198 + —— Mattress, ib. + —— Beds, 199 + —— Bolsters, ib. + —— Pillows, ib. + —— Blinds, window, 206 + —— Chair, Sofa &c. covers, ib. + —— Carpets, 201 + —— Curtains, window, 203 + —— —— Muslin, 205 + —— —— Little Half, ib. + —— —— Full, ib. + —— —— Rod, ib. + —— Church Basses, 207 + —— Church Seats, ib. + —— Divan, 206 + —— Footstools and Hassocks, 207 + —— Screens, ib. + —— Sofa, 206 + —— Table Covers, 207 + —— Watch-pockets, 201 + + VARNISH, old Straw Hats, see _Receipts_ + VEILS, common, 84 + —— Crape, ib. + —— Demi-voile, ib. + —— Mourning, ib. + —— Riding, ib. + —— Tulle, ib. + VELVET, Dress, 113 + —— Cap, 130 + —— To raise the Surface of, see _Receipts_ + VEST, Boy’s, 60 + —— Night, 61 + —— Day, ib. + + WAISTCOAT, Lady’s Flannel, 58 + —— Boy’s, ib. + —— —— Invalid, 59 + —— Man’s under, ib. + —— Boy’s upper, 60 + —— Child’s, see _Vest_ + WAITING GLOVES, see _House Linen_ + WASHING BOOKS, for Nursery, 188 + —— —— Ladies’, 189 + —— —— Gentlemen’s, ib. + —— —— House Linen, 190 + WASHING AND IRONING, 234 + —— Articles used in the Wash-house, ib. + —— —— —— —— Laundry, 235 + —— Clear Starching, 236 + —— Gaufiering, 237 + —— Hanging to dry, 236 + —— Ironing, Mangling, 235 + WASH, Black Silk or Crape, see _Receipts_ + —— Silk Handkerchiefs, ib. + —— Coloured Prints, &c., ib. + —— Lace, ib. + —— Blonde, ib. + —— Kid Gloves, ib. + —— Silk Dresses, ib. + WATCH POCKET, see _Upholstery_, 216 + —— —— Another, ib. + WATERPROOF, see _Receipts_ + —— Shoes and Boots, ib. + WHIPPING, see _Stitches in Needlework_ + WORK-BOX, 15 + —— Basket, 214 + + YARD MEASURE, 213 + + +ON KNITTING. + + Page + GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 237 + KNITTING PINS ib. + MATERIALS FOR KNITTING ib. + ON KNITTING STITCHES 238 + —— —— Binding, 240 + —— —— Casting on stitches, 238 + —— —— Common knitting stitch, 239 + —— —— Dutch common stitch, ib. + —— —— Finishing off, ib. + —— —— Narrowing, ib. + —— —— Slipping a stitch, ib. + —— —— Turns for stitches, 240 + —— —— Turn or seam stitch, 239 + —— —— Welting, 240 + —— —— Widening, 239 + FANCY STITCHES, 240 + —— —— Berlin wire or insertion, ib. + —— —— Chain stitch, ib. + —— —— —— —— two coloured, ib. + —— —— Cross-stitch pattern, ib. + —— —— —— —— Open, ib. + —— —— Crowsfoot stitch, ib. + —— —— Curb stitch, ib. + —— —— Diamond stitch, ib. + —— —— —— —— Embossed, ib. + —— —— Double knitting, ib. + —— —— Another kind, ib. + —— —— Another kind, ib. + —— —— —— Imitation, ib. + —— —— Fantail stitch, ib. + —— —— French stitch, ib. + —— —— —— Raised, ib. + —— —— Hem open, ib. + —— —— Herring-bone stitch, ib. + —— —— Another kind, ib. + —— —— Hexagon embossed, ib. + —— —— Honey-comb, ib. + —— —— Huckaback, or rough-cast, ib. + —— —— Lace wave stitch, ib. + —— —— Ladder, ornamental, ib. + —— —— Muffatee stitch, new, 240 + —— —— Network, imitation, 244 + —— —— New stitch, ib. + —— —— Nondescript, ib. + —— —— Open stitch, plain, ib. + —— —— —— —— Improved, ib. + —— —— Plat, common, ib. + —— —— Purse stitch, ib. + —— —— Rib-stitch, elastic, ib. + —— Two colours, ib. + —— —— Rug stitch, ib. + —— —— Shawl stitch, ib. + FRINGES KNIT, ib. + —— —— Plain, ib. + —— —— Beautiful on border, ib. + —— —— Very pretty, ib + —— —— For a Shawl, ib. + —— —— For Curtains, ib. + ARMLET, 262 + BAGS, 270 + BLANKETS, 271 + BONNET, or hood, 269 + BOA or ruff, spiral knit, 276 + BOSOM FRIEND, 275 + BOOT, ribbed, 257 + —— For infants, 258 + —— Night, ib. + —— Square night, 260 + —— Derby jail, 259 + BORDER AND CORNER, handsome for Shawl, 272 + BRAID, open, 270 + BRACES, for Gentlemen, 275 + CAP, Infant’s, 268 + —— Another, ib. + —— Gentleman‘s night, 269 + —— Gentleman’s silk travelling, 273 + —— Travelling knit silk, + —— Knee, 260 + —— Swiss, 276 + COMFORTER, 264 + —— Another, 264 + —— Another, ib. + COVERLET, 271 + DOYLEYS, Cotton, ib. + —— —— Other sorts, ib. + FLOWER STAND COVERS, 278 + FRILL, 263 + GARTERS, 255 + GLOVES, Large size, 261 + HABIT-SHIRT, 264 + HANDKERCHIEF, ib. + —— Small half, 265 + HEEL, to wear in snow, 258 + HOOD, or Bonnet for a baby, 269 + KETTLE HOLDERS, 270 + LIGHT SCARF, 277 + MATS, 270 + —— Another kind, 271 + MITTENS, 261 + —— For driving in, ib. + —— For Infants, ib. + MUFFATEES, 264 + —— Another kind, ib. + —— Another kind, ib. + —— Another kind, ib. + NAPKIN RINGS, 275 + PETTICOAT, for a child, 274 + PEN WIPER, 278 + RETICULE BAG, 273 + RINGS, for dinner napkins, 275 + RUFF, 263 + SCARF, ib. + —— Light, 277 + —— Another, 263 + SHOE, over, 258 + —— Another pretty kind, 258 + SLIPPERS, Infant’s, 256 + SNOW HEELS, 258 + SOCKS, Night, 259 + —— For invalids, ib. + —— For infants, 255 + —— For grown-up persons, ib. + —— Child’s long, 257 + —— Child’s improved, 277 + —— Neat night, 260 + —— Several kinds, 256 + —— Another sort, 255 + SOFA, Foot warmer, 273 + —— Shawl for Invalids, 275 + SOLE, For inside of Shoe, 260 + STAYS For Children, 274 + STOCKINGS, 253 + —— Proportions for, ib. + —— Scales for, 254 + —— Child’s first, 257 + SHAWL, For a Baby, 268 + —— For a Sofa, 275 + —— Honey-Comb, 265 + —— Fantail border and corners, 272 + SPIRAL Boa or Ruff, 276 + SWISS CAP, 276 + TIPPET, 266 + PURSE, ib. + —— Another, 267 + —— Another, ib. + —— Another, ib. + —— Another very pretty, ib. + WATCH GUARD, Silk, 274 + ZEPHYR, or Baby’s Shawl, 268 + ZEPHYRINE, or Soft Bonnet, 267 + + +ON STRAW PLATTING. + + Page + STRAW PLATTING, 278 + —— —— General Observations, ib. + BLEACHING BOX, 279 + BONNET STAND, 280 + BOX IRON, 280 + MILL FOR ROLLING THE PLAT, 279 + STRAW SPLITTER, 281 + STRAW, on Preparing, ib. + —— on Bleaching, ib. + —— on Dyeing Black, ib. + —— Another Black Dye, 282 + TIN DYEING KETTLE, 280 + DIRECTIONS FOR PLATTING, 282 + PLATS IN GENERAL USE, 283 + —— —— of 3, ib. + —— —— Another, 284 + —— —— of 4, ib. + —— —— Angular 4, ib. + —— —— of 5, ib. + —— —— of 6, ib. + —— —— Another, ib. + —— —— of 7, 285 + —— —— Another, ib. + —— —— Another, ib. + —— —— of 8, ib. + —— —— Another, ib. + —— —— Another, ib. + —— —— of 9, ib. + —— —— Another, 285 + —— —— Another, ib. + —— —— of 10, 286 + —— —— Another, ib. + —— —— of 11, ib. + —— —— Another, ib. + —— —— Another, ib. + —— —— Another, ib. + —— —— of 12, ib. + —— —— of 13, ib. + —— —— Another, ib. + —— —— Another, 287 + —— —— of 14, ib. + —— —— of 15, ib. + —— —— Another, ib. + —— —— of 16, ib. + HOLLOW SPIRAL PLAT, ib. + ARTICLES MADE OF STRAW PLAT, 288 + BONNETS, 289 + —— On cleaning, ib. + —— On turning, 290 + HATS, ib. + —— Tuscan, 287 + LEGHORN, English imitation, 288 + MATS, 290 + STIFFENING, 289 + —— Made of Vellum, ib. + —— —— of Bone-dust, ib. + +THOMAS EVANS, PRINTER, 30, COLMORE ROW, BIRMINGHAM. + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 75494 *** |