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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 05:29:44 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 05:29:44 -0700 |
| commit | ab7081003b445f26286c3a793be421f73355a3e5 (patch) | |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/7470-h.zip b/7470-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8557fc5 --- /dev/null +++ b/7470-h.zip diff --git a/7470-h/7470-h.htm b/7470-h/7470-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..20aee9b --- /dev/null +++ b/7470-h/7470-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,13006 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<meta name="generator" content="HTML Tidy, see www.w3.org"> +<title>Castilian Days, by John Hay</title> +<meta http-equiv="CONTENT-TYPE" content= +"TEXT/HTML; CHARSET=ISO-8859-1"> +<style type="text/css"> + <!-- + body { text-align:justify; margin: 5%;} + P { text-indent: 1em; + margin-top: .75em; + margin-bottom: .75em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + hr.full { width: 100%; } + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + .play { margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; text-align: justify; font-size: 100%; } + img {border: 0;} + blockquote {font-size: 90%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%;} + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 1%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: left; + color: gray; + } /* page numbers */ + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 10%; margin-left: 1%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; + margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 5%; margin-bottom: .75em; font-size: 110%;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 5%;} + .indent {font-style: italic; font-size: 100%; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + CENTER { padding: 10px;} + PRE { font-family: Times; font-style: italic; font-size: 100%; margin-left: 10%;} + --> +</style> + +</head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Castilian Days, by John Hay + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Castilian Days + +Author: John Hay + +Release Date: February, 2005 [EBook #7470] +Last Updated: August 24, 2012 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CASTILIAN DAYS *** + + + + +Produced by Eric Eldred and David Widger + + + + + +</pre> + + + +<img src="images/cd1-1.jpg" alt="cd1-1.jpg" class="c1"> + +<p>[Cover: Castilian Days]</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-2.jpg" alt="cd1-2.jpg" class="c2"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6"><b>SEGOVIA FROM THE</b> +CORNER TOWER</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<h1>CASTILIAN DAYS</h1> + +<h2>BY JOHN HAY</h2> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c3">WITH ILLUSTRATIONS +BY JOSEPH PENNELL</span><br> +</p> + +<img src="images/cd1-3.jpg" alt="cd1-3.jpg" class="c4"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font8 c5">BOSTON AND NEW YORK +HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font4 c6">COPYRIGHT 1871 AND +1899 BY JOHN HAY</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font4 c6">COPYRIGHT 1903 BY +HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN 8t CO.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font4 c6">ALL RIGHTS +RESERVED</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font8"><i>Published November +1903</i></span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-4.jpg" alt="cd1-4.jpg" class="c7"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font17">PUBLISHERS' +NOTE</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c3">IN this Holiday +Edition of <i>Castilian Days</i> it has been thought advisable to +omit a few chapters that appeared in the original edition. These +chapters were less descriptive than the rest of the book, and not +so rich in the picturesque material which the art of the +illustrator demands. Otherwise, the text is reprinted without +change. The illustrations are the fruit of a special visit which +Mr. Pennell has recently made to Castile for this +purpose.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10">BOSTON, AUTUMN, +<b>1903</b></span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-5.jpg" alt="cd1-5.jpg" class="c8"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font24">CONTENTS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c9">MADRID AL +FRESCO</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7 c9">SPANISH LIVING AND +DYING</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7 c9">INFLUENCE OF +TRADITION IN SPANISH LIFE</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7 c9">TAUROMACHY</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7 c9">RED-LETTER +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7 c9">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c9">A CASTLE IN THE +AIR</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c9">THE CITY OF THE +VISIGOTHS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7 c9">THE +ESCORIAL</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7 c9">A MIRACLE +PLAY</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7 c9">THE CRADLE AND THE +GRAVE OF CERVANTES</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-6.jpg" alt="cd1-6.jpg" class="c10"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font24">LIST OF +ILLUSTRATIONS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>The Cathedral of +Toledo</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>Segovia from the +Corner Tower</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>The St. +Christopher of Toledo</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>Inn of +Cervantes, Toledo</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>Gallery of the +Prado</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>The Fountain +playing at La Granja</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>Puerta del Sol, +Madrid</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>The Palace, +Madrid</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>The Courtyard of +the Palace, Madrid</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>The Squares of +the Statues, Madrid</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>A Summer Day in +Madrid</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>The Bridge of +Toledo, Madrid</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>Delightful +Pictures of Domestic Life</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>In the Garden of +the Prince, Aranjuez</i></span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">x LIST OF +ILLUSTRATIONS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>Gardens of the +Royal Palace, Madrid</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>The Bridge of +Segovia, Madrid</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>Madrid +Market</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>The Promenades +of Madrid</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>The Royal +Palace, Madrid</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>Salon de los +Reyes Catolicos, Aranjuez</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>New +Madrid</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>Madrid al +Fresco</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class= +"font10 c11"><i>Cloak-Play</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>Entrance to +Bull-Ring, Madrid</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>The +Procession</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class= +"font10 c11"><i>Banderillas</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class= +"font10 c11"><i>Cloak-Dance</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class= +"font10 c11"><i>Espada</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>La +Granja</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>The Shrine of +San Isidro</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>Paula, La +Granja</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>The Plaza Major, +Madrid</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>In the Park, La +Granja</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>The Garden of +the Island, Aranjuez</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>Entrance to the +Velazquez Room, the Prado</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>Velazquez +Room</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>The Grand +Gallery of the Prado</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>The Long Gallery +of the Prado</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>La Granja +Fountain</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>The Palace. La +Granja</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>San +Ildefonso</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>Approach to +Segovia</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>The Aqueduct +from the Market, Segovia. Segovia</i></span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">LIST OF +ILLUSTRATIONS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>The Alcazar, +Segovia</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>San Juan de los +Reyes and Valley of Tagus The Alcazar, Toledo</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>The Cathedral of +Toledo</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>The Gilded +Organ-Pipes</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>The Zocodover, +Toledo</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>Cloisters, San +Juan de los Reyes</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>Interior of San +Juan, Toledo</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font10 c11"><i>Porta +Viragia</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>The Bridge, +Toledo</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>Endless +Escorial</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>Court of the +Temple, Escorial</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>High Altar, +Escorial</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>Interior of +Church, Escorial</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>Sacristy, +Escorial</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>Side Chapels, +the Cathedral of Toledo</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>A Street of +Toledo</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>Mozarabic +Chapel, Toledo</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>The Cheerful +Gothic Cloisters, Toledo</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>The Choir, +Toledo</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>An Inn Door, +Toledo</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>Chapel of the +University, Alcald</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>The University, +Alcald</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>The Gorgeous +Sarcophagus of Ximenez</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>Calle Major, +Alcald</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>Baptismal Font +of Cervantes, Alcald</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>House of +Cervantes, Madrid</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font11 c11"><i>The Tomb of +Cervantes</i></span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-7.jpg" alt="cd1-7.jpg" class="c12"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">MADRID AL +FRESCO</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">MADRID is a capital +with malice aforethought. Usually the seat of government +<b>is</b> established in some important town from the force of +circumstances. Some cities have an attraction too powerful for +the court to resist. There is no capital of England possible but +London. Paris is the heart of France. Rome is the predestined +capital of Italy in spite of the wandering flirtations its +varying governments in different centuries have carried on with +Ravenna, or Naples, or Florence. You can imagine no Residenz for +Austria but the Kaiserstadt, -- the gemüthlich Wien. But +there</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">4 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">are other capitals +where men have arranged things and consequently bungled them. The +great Czar Peter slapped his imperial court down on the marshy +shore of the Neva, where he could look westward into civilization +and watch with the jealous eye of an intelligent barbarian the +doings of his betters. Washington is another specimen of the +cold-blooded handiwork of the capital builders. We shall think +nothing less of the <i>clarum et venerabile nomen</i> of its +founder if we admit he was human, and his wishing the seat of +government nearer to Mount Vernon than Mount Washington +sufficiently proves this. But Madrid more plainly than any other +capital shows the traces of having been set down and properly +brought up by the strong hand of a paternal government; and like +children with whom the same regimen has been followed, it +presents in its maturity a curious mixture of lawlessness and +insipidity.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Its greatness was +thrust upon it by Philip II. Some premonitory symptoms of the +dangerous honor that awaited it had been seen in preceding +reigns. Ferdinand and Isabella occasionally set up their pilgrim +tabernacle on the declivity that overhangs the Manzanares. +Charles V. found the thin,</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">MADRID AL FRESCO +5</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">fine air comforting +to his gouty articulations. But Philip II. made it his court. It +seems hard to conceive how a king who had his choice of Lisbon, +with its glorious harbor and unequalled communications; Seville, +with its delicious climate and natural beauty; and Salamanca and +Toledo, with their wealth of tradition, splendor of architecture, +and renown of learning, should have chosen this barren mountain +for his home, and the seat of his empire. But when we know this +monkish king we wonder no longer. He chose Madrid simply because +it was cheerless and bare and of ophthalmic ugliness. The royal +kill-joy delighted in having the dreariest capital on earth. +After a while there seemed to him too much life and humanity +about Madrid, and he built the Escorial, the grandest ideal of +majesty and ennui that the world has ever seen. This vast mass of +granite has somehow acted as an anchor that has held the capital +fast moored at Madrid through all succeeding years.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">It was a dreary and +somewhat shabby court for many reigns. The great kings who +started the Austrian dynasty were too busy in their world +conquest to pay much attention to beautifying Madrid, and their +weak successors, sunk in ignoble</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">6 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">pleasures, had not +energy enough to indulge the royal folly of building. When the +Bourbons came down from France there was a little flurry of +construction under Philip V., but he never finished his palace in +the Plaza del Oriente, and was soon absorbed in constructing his +castle in cloud-land on the heights of La Granja. The only real +ruler the Bourbons ever gave to Spain was Charles III., and to +him Madrid owes all that it has of architecture and civic +improvement. Seconded by his able and liberal minister, Count +Aranda, who was educated abroad, and so free from the trammels of +Spanish ignorance and superstition, he rapidly changed the +ignoble town into something like a city. The greater portion of +the public buildings date from this active and beneficent reign. +It was he who laid out the walks and promenades which give to +Madrid almost its only outward attraction. The Picture Gallery, +which is the shrine of all pilgrims of taste, was built by him +for a Museum of Natural Science. In nearly all that a stranger +cares to see, Madrid is not an older city than Boston.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">There is +consequently no glory of tradition here. There are no cathedrals. +There are no</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-8.jpg" alt="cd1-8.jpg" class="c14"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">THE PALACE, +MADRID</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">MADRID AL FRESCO +7</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">ruins. There is +none of that mysterious and haunting memory that peoples the air +with spectres in quiet towns like Ravenna and Nuremberg. And +there is little of that vast movement of humanity that possesses +and bewilders you in San Francisco and New York. Madrid is larger +than Chicago; but Chicago is a great city and Madrid a great +village. The pulsations of life in the two places resemble each +other no more than the beating of Dexter's heart on the +home-stretch is like the rising and falling of an oozy tide in a +marshy inlet.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">There is nothing +indigenous in Madrid. There is no marked local color. It is a +city of Castile, but not a Castilian city, like Toledo, which +girds its graceful waist with the golden Tagus, or like Segovia, +fastened to its rock in hopeless shipwreck.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">But it is not for +this reason destitute of an interest of its own. By reason of its +exceptional history and character it is the best point in Spain +to study Spanish life. It has no distinctive traits itself, but +it is a patchwork of all Spain. Every province of the Peninsula +sends a contingent to its population. The Gallicians hew its wood +and draw its water; the Asturian women nurse its +babies</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">8 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">at their deep +bosoms, and fill the promenades with their brilliant costumes; +the Valentians carpet its halls and quench its thirst with orgeat +of chufas; in every street you shall see the red bonnet and +sandalled feet of the Catalan; in every café, the shaven +face and rat-tail chignon of the Majo of Andalusia. If it have no +character of its own, it is a mirror where all the faces of the +Peninsula may sometimes be seen. It is like the mockingbird of +the West, that has no song of its own, and yet makes the woods +ring with every note it has ever heard.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Though Madrid gives +a picture in little of all Spain, it is not all Spanish. It has a +large foreign population. Not only its immediate neighbors, the +French, are here in great numbers, -- conquering so far their +repugnance to emigration, and living as gayly as possible in the +midst of traditional hatred, -- but there are also many Germans +and English in business here, and a few stray Yankees have +pitched their tents, to reinforce the teeth of the Dons, and to +sell them ploughs and sewing-machines. Its railroads have waked +it up to a new life, and the Revolution has set free the thought +of its people to an extent which would</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">MADRID AL FRESCO +9</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">have been hardly +credible a few years ago. Its streets swarm with newsboys and +strangers, -- the agencies that are to bring its people into the +movement of the age.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">It has a superb +opera-house, which might as well be in Naples, for all the +national character it has; the court theatre, where not a word of +Cas-tilian is ever heard, nor a strain of Spanish music. Even +cosmopolite Paris has her grand opera sung in French, and +easy-going Vienna insists that Don Juan shall make love in +German. The champagny strains of Offenbach are heard in every +town of Spain oftener than the ballads of the country. In Madrid +there are more <i>pilluelos</i> who whistle <i>Bu qui +s'avance</i> than the Hymn of Riego. The Cancan has taken its +place on the boards of every stage in the city, apparently to +stay; and the exquisite jota and cachucha are giving way to the +bestialities of the casino cadet. It is useless perhaps to fight +against that hideous orgie of vulgar Menads which in these late +years has swept over all nations, and stung the loose world into +a tarantula dance from the Golden Horn to the Golden Gate. It +must have its day and go out; and when it has passed, perhaps we +may see that it was not so utterly</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">10 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">causeless and +irrational as it seemed; but that, as a young American poet has +impressively said, "Paris was proclaiming to the world in it +somewhat of the pent-up fire and fury of her nature, the +bitterness of her heart, the fierceness of her protest against +spiritual and political repression. It is an execration in +rhythm, -- a dance of fiends, which Paris has invented to express +in license what she lacks in liberty."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">This diluted +European, rather than Spanish, spirit may be seen in most of the +amusements of the politer world of Madrid. They have classical +concerts in the circuses and popular music in the open air. The +theatres play translations of French plays, which are pretty good +when they are in prose, and pretty dismal when they are turned +into verse, as is more frequent, for the Spanish mind delights in +the jingle of rhyme. The fine old Spanish drama is vanishing day +by day. The masterpieces of Lope and Calderón, which +inspired all subsequent playwriting in Europe, have sunk almost +utterly into oblivion. The stage is flooded with the washings of +the Boulevards. Bad as the translations are, the imitations are +worse. The original plays produced by the geniuses of +the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">MADRID AL FRESCO +n</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Spanish Academy, +for which they are crowned and sonneted and pensioned, are of the +kind upon which we are told that gods and men and columns look +austerely.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">This infection of +foreign manners has completely gained and now controls what is +called the best society of Madrid. A soiree in this circle is +like an evening in the corresponding grade of position in Paris +or Petersburg or New York in all external characteristics. The +toilets are by Worth; the beauties are coiffed by the deft +fingers of Parisian tiring-women; the men wear the penitential +garb of Poole; the music is by Gounod and Verdi; Strauss inspires +the rushing waltzes, and the married people walk through the +quadrilles to the measures of Blue Beard and Fair Helen, so +suggestive of conjugal rights and duties. As for the suppers, the +trail of the Neapolitan serpent is over them all. Honest eating +is a lost art among the effete denizens of the Old World. +Tantalizing ices, crisped shapes of baked nothing, arid +sandwiches, and the feeblest of sugary punch, are the only +supports exhausted nature receives for the shock of the cotillon. +I remember the stern reply of a friend of mine when I asked him +to go with me to a</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">12 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">brilliant +reception,--"No! Man liveth not by biscuit-glace alone!" His +heart was heavy for the steamed cherry-stones of Harvey and the +stewed terrapin of Augustin.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The speech of the +gay world has almost ceased to be national. Every one speaks +French sufficiently for all social requirements. It is sometimes +to be doubted whether this constant use of a foreign language in +official and diplomatic circles is a cause or effect of paucity +of ideas. It is impossible for any one to use another tongue with +the ease and grace with which he could use his own. You know how +tiresome the most charming foreigners are when they speak +English. A fetter-dance is always more curious than graceful. Yet +one who has nothing to say can say it better in a foreign +language. If you must speak nothing but phrases, Ollendorff's are +as good as any one's. Where there are a dozen people all speaking +French equally badly, each one imagines there is a certain +elegance in the hackneyed forms. I know of no other way of +accounting for the fact that clever people seem stupid and stupid +people clever when they speak French. This facile language thus +becomes the missionary of mental equality,--the principles +of</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-9.jpg" alt="cd1-9.jpg" class="c15"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5">THE COURTYARD OF THE +PALACE, MADRID</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">MADRID AL FRESCO +13</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">'89 applied to +conversation. All men are equal before the +phrase-book.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">But this is +hypercritical and ungrateful. We do not go to balls to hear +sermons nor discuss the origin of matter. If the young grandees +of Spain are rather weaker in the parapet than is allowed in the +nineteenth century, if the old boys are more frivolous than is +becoming to age, and both more ignorant of the day's doings than +is consistent with even their social responsibilities, in +compensation the women of this circle are as pretty and amiable +as it is possible to be in a fallen world. The foreigner never +forgets those piquant, <i>mutines</i> faces of Andalusia and +those dreamy eyes of Malaga,--the black masses of Moorish hair +and the blond glory of those graceful heads that trace their +descent from Gothic demigods. They were not very learned nor very +witty, but they were knowing enough to trouble the soundest +sleep. Their voices could interpret the sublimest ideas of +Mendelssohn. They knew sufficiently of lines and colors to dress +themselves charmingly at small cost, and their little feet were +well enough educated to bear them over the polished floor of a +ball-room as lightly as swallows' wings. The flirting of +their</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">14 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">intelligent fans, +the flashing of those quick smiles where eyes, teeth, and lips +all did their dazzling duty, and the satin twinkling of those +neat boots in the waltz, are harder to forget than things better +worth remembering.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Since the beginning +of the Revolutionary regime there have been serious schisms and +heart-burnings in the gay world. The people of the old situation +assumed that the people of the new were rebels and traitors, and +stopped breaking bread with them. But in spite of this the palace +and the ministry of war were gay enough,--for Madrid is a city of +office-holders, and the White House is always easy to fill, even +if two thirds of the Senate is uncongenial. The principal +fortress of the post was the palace of the spirituelle and +hospitable lady whose society name is Duchess of +Peñaranda, but who is better known as the mother of the +Empress of the French. Her salon was the weekly rendezvous of the +irreconcilable adherents of the House of Bourbon, and the +aristocratic beauty that gathered there was too powerful a +seduction even for the young and hopeful partisans of the powers +that be. There was nothing exclusive about this elegant +hospitality. Beauty and good manners have</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">MADRID AL FRESCO +15</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">always been a +passport there. I have seen a proconsul of Prim talking with a +Carlist leader, and a fiery young democrat dancing with a +countess of Castile.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">But there is +another phase of society in Madrid which is altogether +pleasing,--far from the domain of politics or public affairs, +where there is no pretension or luxury or conspiracy,--the +old-fashioned Tertulias of Spain. There is nowhere a kindlier and +more unaffected sociableness. The leading families of each little +circle have one evening a week on which they remain at home. +Nearly all their friends come in on that evening. There is +conversation and music and dancing. The young girls gather +together in little groups,--not confined under the jealous guard +of their mothers or chaperons,--and chatter of the momentous +events of the week--their dresses, their beaux, and their books. +Around these compact formations of loveliness skirmish light +bodies of the male enemy, but rarely effect a lodgment. A word or +a smile is momently thrown out to meet the advance; but the long, +desperate battle of flirtation, which so often takes place in +America in discreet corners and outlying boudoirs, is never seen +in this</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">16 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">well-organized +society. The mothers in Israel are ranged for the evening around +the walls in comfortable chairs, which they never leave; and the +colonels and generals and chiefs of administration, who form the +bulk of all Madrid gatherings, are gravely smoking in the library +or playing interminable games of tresillon, seasoned with +temperate denunciations of the follies of the time.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Nothing can be more +engaging than the tone of perfect ease and cordial courtesy which +pervades these family festivals. It is here that the Spanish +character is seen in its most attractive light. Nearly everybody +knows French, but it is never spoken. The exquisite Castilian, +softened by its graceful diminutives into a rival of the Italian +in tender melody, is the only medium of conversation; it is rare +that a stranger' is seen, but if he is, he must learn Spanish or +be a wet blanket forever.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">You will often +meet, in persons of wealth and distinction, an easy degenerate +accent in Spanish, strangely at variance with their elegance and +culture. These are Creoles of the Antilles, and they form one of +the most valued and popular elements of society in the capital. +There is a gallantry and</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">MADRID AL FRESCO +17</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">dash about the men, +and an intelligence and independence about the women, that +distinguish them from their cousins of the Peninsula. The +American element has recently grown very prominent in the +political and social world. Admiral Topete is a Mexican. His wife +is one of the distinguished Cuban family of Arrieta. General Prim +married a Mexican heiress. The magnificent Duchess de la Torre, +wife of the Regent Serrano, is a Cuban born and bred.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">In one particular +Madrid is unique among capitals,--it has no suburbs. It lies in a +desolate table-land in the windy waste of New Castile; on the +north the snowy Guadarrama chills its breezes, and on every other +side the tawny landscape stretches away in dwarfish hills and +shallow ravines barren of shrub or tree, until distance fuses the +vast steppes into one drab plain, which melts in the hazy verge +of the warm horizon. There are no villages sprinkled in the +environs to lure the Madrileños out of their walls for a +holiday. Those delicious picnics that break with such enchanting +freshness and variety the steady course of life in other capitals +cannot here exist. No Parisian loves <i>la bonne ville</i> so +much that he does not call those</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">18 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">the happiest of +days on which he deserts her for a row at Asniéres, a +donkey-ride at Enghien, or a bird-like dinner in the vast +chestnuts of Sceaux. "There is only one Kaiserstadt," sings the +loyal Kerl of Vienna, but he shakes the dust of the Graben from +his feet on holiday mornings, and makes his merry pilgrimage to +the lordly Schoen-brunn or the heartsome Dornbach, or the wooded +eyry of the Kahlenberg. What would white-bait be if not eaten at +Greenwich? What would life be in the great cities without the +knowledge that just outside, an hour away from the toil and dust +and struggle of this money-getting world, there are green fields, +and whispering forests, and verdurous nooks of breezy shadow by +the side of brooks where the white pebbles shine through the +mottled stream,--where you find great pied pan-sies under your +hands, and catch the black beady eyes of orioles watching you +from the thickets, and through the lush leafage over you see +patches of sky flecked with thin clouds that sail so lazily you +cannot be sure if the blue or the white is moving? Existence +without these luxuries would be very much like life in +Madrid.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Yet it is not so +dismal as it might seem. The</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">MADRID AL FRESCO +19</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Grande Duchesse of +Gerolstein, the cheeriest moralist who ever occupied a throne, +announces just before the curtain falls, "Quand on n'a pas ce +qu'on aime, il faut aimer ce qu'on a." But how much easier it is +to love what you have when you never imagined anything better! +The bulk of the good people of Madrid have never left their natal +city. If they have been, for their sins, some day to Val-lecas or +Carabanchel or any other of the dusty villages that bake and +shiver on the arid plains around them, they give fervid thanks on +returning alive, and never wish to go again. They shudder when +they hear of the summer excursions of other populations, and +commiserate them profoundly for living in a place they are so +anxious to leave. A lovely girl of Madrid once said to me she +never wished to travel,--some people who had been to France +preferred Paris to Madrid; as if that were an inexplicable +insanity by which their wanderings had been punished. The +indolent incuriousness of the Spaniard accepts the utter +isolation of his city as rather an advantage. It saves him the +trouble of making up his mind where to go. <i>Vamonos al +Prado!</i> or, as Browning says,--</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font9">"Let's to the Prado and +make the most of time."</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">20 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The people of +Madrid take more solid comfort in their promenade than any I +know. This is one of the inestimable benefits conferred upon them +by those wise and liberal free-thinkers Charles III. and Aranda. +They knew how important to the moral and physical health of the +people a place of recreation was. They reduced the hideous waste +land on the east side of the city to a breathing-space for future +generations, turning the meadow into a promenade and the hill +into the Buen Retiro. The people growled terribly at the time, as +they did at nearly everything this prematurely liberal government +did for them. The wise king once wittily said: "My people are +like bad children that kick the shins of their nurse whenever +their faces are washed."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">But they soon +became reconciled to their Prado,--a name, by the way, which runs +through several idioms,--in Paris they had a +Pré-aux-clercs, the Clerks' Meadow, and the great park of +Vienna is called the Prater. It was originally the favorite scene +of duels, and the cherished trysting-place of lovers. But in +modern times it is too popular for any such selfish +use.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The polite world +takes its stately promenade in</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-10.jpg" alt="cd1-10.jpg" class="c16"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font8">THE SQUARES OF THE +STATUES. MADRID</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">MADRID AL FRESCO +21</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">the winter +afternoons in the northern prolongation of the real Prado, called +in the official courtier style <i>Las delicias de Isabel +Segunda,</i> but in common speech the Castilian Fountain, or +<i>Castellana,</i> to save time. So perfect is the social +discipline in these old countries that people who are not in +society never walk in this long promenade, which is open to all +the world. You shall see there, any pleasant day before the +Carnival, the aristocracy of the kingdom, the fast young hopes of +the nobility, the diplomatic body resident, and the flexible +figures and graceful bearing of the high-born ladies of Castile. +Here they take the air as free from snobbish competition as the +good society of Olympus, while a hundred paces farther south, +just beyond the Mint, the world at large takes its plebeian +constitutional. How long, with a democratic system of government, +this purely conventional respect will be paid to blue-ness of +blood cannot be conjectured. Its existence a year after the +Revolution was to me one of the most singular of +phenomena.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">After Easter Monday +the Castellana is left to its own devices for the summer. With +the warm long days of May and June, the evening walk in the Salon +begins. Europe affords no scene more</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">22 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">original and +characteristic. The whole city meets in this starlit +drawing-room. It is a vast evening party al fresco, stretching +from the Alcalá to the Course of San Gerónimo. In +the wide street beside it every one in town who owns a carriage +may be seen moving lazily up and down, and apparently envying the +gossiping strollers on foot. On three nights in the week there is +music in the Retiro Garden,--not as in our feverish way beginning +so early that you must sacrifice your dinner to get there, and +then turning you out disconsolate in that seductive hour which +John Phoenix used to call the "shank of the evening," but opening +sensibly at half past nine and going leisurely forward until +after midnight. The music is very good. Sometimes Arban comes +down from Paris to recover from his winter fatigues and bewitch +the Spains with his wizard <i>baton.</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">In all this vast +crowd nobody is in a hurry. They have all night before them. They +stayed quietly at home in the stress of the noontide when the +sunbeams were falling in the glowing streets like javelins,--they +utilized some of the waste hours of the broiling afternoon in +sleep, and are fresh as daisies now. The women are not +haunted</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">MADRID AL FRESCO +23</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">by the thought of +lords and babies growling and wailing at home. Their lords are +beside them, the babies are sprawling in the clean gravel by +their chairs. Late in the small hours I have seen these family +parties in the promenade, the husband tranquilly smoking his +hundredth cigarette, his <i>placens uxor</i> dozing in her chair, +one baby asleep on the ground, and another slumbering in her +lap.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">This Madrid climate +is a gallant one, and kindlier to the women than the men. The +ladies are built on the old-fashioned generous plan. Like a +Southern table in the old times, the only fault is too abundant +plenty. They move along with a superb dignity of carriage that +Banting would like to banish from the world, their round white +shoulders shining in the starlight, their fine heads elegantly +draped in the coquettish and always graceful mantilla. But you +would look in vain among the men of Madrid for such fulness and +liberality of structure. They are thin, eager, sinewy in +appearance,--though it is the spareness of the Turk, not of the +American. It comes from tobacco and the Guadarrama winds. This +still, fine, subtle air that blows from the craggy peaks over the +treeless plateau seems to take all superfluous moisture +out</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">24 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">of the men of +Madrid. But it is, like Benedick's wit, "a most manly air, it +will not hurt a woman." This tropic summer-time brings the +halcyon days of the vagabonds of Madrid. They are a temperate, +reasonable people, after all, when they are let alone. They do +not require the savage stimulants of our colder-blooded race. The +fresh air is a feast. As Walt Whitman says, they loaf and invite +their souls. They provide for the banquet only the most spiritual +provender. Their dissipation is confined principally to starlight +and zephyrs; the coarser and wealthier spirits indulge in ice, +agraz, and meringues dissolved in water. The climax of their +luxury is a cool bed. Walking about the city at midnight, I have +seen the fountains all surrounded by luxurious vagabonds asleep +or in revery, dozens of them stretched along the rim of the +basins, in the spray of the splashing water, where the least +start would plunge them in. But the dreams of these Latin beggars +are too peaceful to trouble their slumber. They lie motionless, +amid the roar of wheels and the tramp of a thousand feet, their +bed the sculptured marble, their covering the deep, amethystine +vault, warm and cherishing with its breath of summer +winds,</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-11.jpg" alt="cd1-11.jpg" class="c17"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">A SUMMER <b>DAY IN +MADRID</b></span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">MADRID AL FRESCO +25</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">bright with its +trooping stars. The Providence of the worthless watches and +guards them!</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The chief commerce +of the streets of Madrid seems to be fire and water, bane and +antidote. It would be impossible for so many match-venders to +live anywhere else, in a city ten times the size of Madrid. On +every block you will find a wandering merchant dolefully +announcing paper and phosphorus,--the one to construct cigarettes +and the other to light them. The matches are little waxen tapers +very neatly made and enclosed in pasteboard boxes, which are sold +for a cent and contain about a hundred <i>fosforos.</i> These +boxes are ornamented with portraits of the popular favorites of +the day, and afford a very fair test of the progress and decline +of parties. The queen has disappeared from them except in +caricature, and the chivalrous face of Castelar and the heavy +Bourbon mouth of Don Carlos are oftener seen than any others. A +Madrid smoker of average industry will use a box a day. They +smoke more cigarettes than cigars, and in the ardor of +conversation allow their fire to go out every minute. A young +Austrian, who was watching a <i>señorito</i> light his +wisp of paper for the fifth time, and mentally comparing it with +the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15"><b>26</b> CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">volcano volume and +<i>kern-deutsch</i> integrity of purpose of the meerschaums of +his native land, said to me: "What can you expect of a people who +trifle in that way with the only work of their lives? +"</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">It is this habit of +constant smoking that makes the Madrileños the thirstiest +people in the world; so that, alternating with the cry of "Fire, +lord-lings! Matches, chevaliers!" you hear continually the drone +so tempting to parched throats, "Water! who wants water? freezing +water! colder than snow!" This is the daily song of the Gallician +who marches along in his irrigating mission, with his brown +blouse, his short breeches, and pointed hat, like that Aladdin +wears in the cheap editions; a little varied by the Valentian in +his party-colored mantle and his tow trousers, showing the +bronzed leg from the knee to the blue-bordered sandals. Numerous +as they are, they all seem to have enough to do. They carry their +scriptural-looking water-jars on their backs, and a smart tray of +tin and burnished brass, with meringues and glasses, in front. +The glasses are of enormous but not extravagant proportions. +These dropsical Iberians will drink water as if it were no +stronger than beer. In the winter-time, while the cheerful +invi-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">MADRID AL FRESCO +27</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">tation rings out to +the same effect,--that the beverage is cold as the snow,--the +merchant prudently carries a little pot of hot water over a +spirit-lamp to take the chill off for shivery +customers.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Madrid is one of +those cities where strangers fear the climate less than +residents. Nothing is too bad for the Castilian to say of his +native air. Before you have been a day in the city some kind soul +will warn you against everything you have been in the habit of +doing as leading to sudden and severe death in this subtle air. +You will hear in a dozen different tones the favorite proverb, +which may be translated,--</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font9">The air of Madrid is as +sharp as a knife,--</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font9">It will spare a candle +and blow out your life:--</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">and another where +the truth, as in many Spanish proverbs, is sacrificed to the +rhyme, saying that the climate is <i>tres meses invierno y nueve +infierno,--</i>three months winter and nine months Tophet. At the +first coming of the winter frosts the genuine son of Madrid gets +out his capa, the national full round cloak, and never leaves it +off till late in the hot spring days. They have a way of throwing +one corner over the left shoulder, so that a bright strip of gay +lining falls outward and pleasantly</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15"><b>28</b> CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">relieves the sombre +monotony of the streets. <b>In</b> this way the face is +completely covered by the heavy woollen folds, only the eyes +being visible under the sombrero. The true Spaniard breathes no +out-of-doors air all winter except through his cloak, and they +stare at strangers who go about with uncovered faces enjoying the +brisk air as if they were lunatics. But what makes the custom +absurdly incongruous is that the women have no such terror of +fresh air. While the hidalgo goes smothered in his wrappings his +wife and daughter wear nothing on their necks and faces but their +pretty complexions, and the gallant breeze, grateful for this +generous confidence, repays them in roses. I have sometimes +fancied that in this land of traditions this difference might +have arisen in those days of adventure when the cavaliers had +good reasons for keeping their faces concealed, while the +señoras, we are bound to believe, have never done anything +for which their own beauty was not the best excuse.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Nearly all there is +of interest in Madrid consists in the faces and the life of its +people. There is but one portion of the city which appeals to the +tourist's ordinary set of emotions. This is the old</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-12.jpg" alt="cd1-12.jpg" class="c18"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">THE BRIDGE OF TOLEDO, +MADRID</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">MADRID AL FRESCO +29</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Moors' +quarter,--the intricate jumble of streets and places on the +western edge of the town, overlooking the bankrupt river. Here is +St. Andrew's, the parish church where Isabella the Catholic and +her pious husband used to offer their stiff and dutiful prayers. +Behind it a market-place of the most primitive kind runs +precipitately down to the Street of. Segovia, at such an angle +that you wonder the turnips and carrots can ever be brought to +keep their places on the rocky slope. If you will wander through +the dark alleys and hilly streets of this quarter when twilight +is softening the tall tenement-houses to a softer purpose, and +the doorways are all full of gossiping groups, and here and there +in the little courts you can hear the tinkling of a guitar and +the drone of ballads, and see the idlers lounging by the +fountains, and everywhere against the purple sky the crosses of +old convents, while the evening air is musical with slow chimes +from the full-arched belfries, it will not be hard to imagine you +are in the Spain you have read and dreamed of. And, climbing out +of this labyrinth of slums, you pass under the gloomy gates that +lead to the Plaza Mayor. This once magnificent square is now as +squalid and forsaken as the Place</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">30 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Royale of Paris, +though it dates from a period comparatively recent. The mind so +instinctively revolts at the contemplation of those orgies of +priestly brutality which have made the very name of this place +redolent with a fragrance of scorched Christians, that we +naturally assign it an immemorial antiquity. But a glance at the +booby face of Philip III. on his round-bellied charger in the +centre of the square will remind us that this place was built at +the same time the Mayflower's passengers were laying the massive +foundations of the great Republic. The Autos-da-Fe, the plays of +Lope de Vega, and the bull-fights went on for many years with +impartial frequency under the approving eyes of royalty, which +occupied a convenient balcony in the Panadería, that +overdressed building with the two extinguisher towers. Down to a +period disgracefully near us, those balconies were occupied by +the dull-eyed, pendulous-lipped tyrants who have sat on the +throne of St. Ferdinand, while there in the spacious court below +the varied sports went on,--to-day a comedy of Master Lope, +to-morrow the gentle and joyous slaying of bulls, and the next +day, with greater pomp and ceremony, with banners hung from the +windows,</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">MADRID AL FRESCO +31</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">and my lord the +king surrounded by his women and his courtiers in their bravest +gear, and the august presence of the chief priests and their idol +in the form of wine and wafers,--the judgment and fiery sentence +of the thinking men of Spain.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Let us remember as +we leave this accursed spot that the old palace of the +Inquisition is now the Ministry of Justice, where a liberal +statesman has just drawn up the bill of civil marriage; and that +in the convent of the Trinitarians a Spanish Rationalist, the +Minister of Fomento, is laboring to secularize education in the +Peninsula. There is much coiling and hissing, but the fangs of +the ser-pent are much less prompt and effective than of +old<b>.</b></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The wide Calle +Mayor brings you in a moment out of these mouldy shadows and into +the broad light of nowadays which shines in the Puerta del Sol. +Here, under the walls of the Ministry of the Interior, the quick, +restless heart of Madrid beats with the new life it has lately +earned. The flags of the pavement have been often stained with +blood, but of blood shed in combat, in the assertion of +individual freedom. Although the govern-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">32 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">ment holds that +fortress-palace with a grasp of iron, it can exercise no control +over the free speech that asserts itself on the very sidewalk of +the Principal. At every step you see news-stands filled with the +sharp critical journalism of Spain,--often ignorant and unjust, +but generally courteous in expression and independent in thought. +Every day at noon the northern mails bring hither the word of all +Europe to the awaking Spanish mind, and within that massive +building the converging lines of the telegraph are whispering +every hour their persuasive lessons of the world's essential +unity.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The movement of +life and growth is bearing the population gradually away from +that dark mediaeval Madrid of the Catholic kings through the +Puerta del Sol to the airy heights beyond, and the new, fresh +quarter built by the philosopher Bourbon Charles III. is becoming +the most important part of the city. I think we may be permitted +to hope that the long reign of savage faith and repression is +broken at last, and that this abused and suffering people is +about to enter into its rightful inheritance of modern freedom +and progress.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-13.jpg" alt="cd1-13.jpg" class="c19"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">SPANISH LIVING AND +DYING</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">NOWHERE is the +sentiment of home stronger than in Spain. Strangers, whose ideas +of the Spanish character have been gained from romance and +comedy, are apt to note with some surprise the strength and +prevalence of the domestic affections. But a moment's reflection +shows us that nothing is more natural. It is the result of all +their history. The old Celtic population had scarcely any +religion but that of the family. The Goths brought in the pure +Teutonic regard for woman and marriage. The Moors were +distinguished by the patriarchal structure of their +soci-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">34 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">ety. The Spaniards +have thus learned the lesson of home in the school of history and +tradition. The intense feeling of individuality, which so +strongly marks the Spanish character, and which in the political +world is so fatal an element of strife and obstruction, favors +this peculiar domesticity. The Castilian is submissive to his +king and his priest, haughty and inflexible with his equals. But +his own house is a refuge from the contests of out of doors. The +reflex of absolute authority is here observed, it is true. The +Spanish father is absolute king and lord by his own hearthstone, +but his sway is so mild and so readily acquiesced in that it is +hardly felt. The evils of tyranny are rarely seen but by him who +resists it, and the Spanish family seldom calls for the harsh +exercise of parental authority.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">This is the rule. I +do not mean to say there are no exceptions. The pride and +jealousy inherent in the race make family quarrels, when they do +arise, the bitterest and the fiercest in the world. In every +grade of life these vindictive feuds among kindred are seen from +time to time. Twice at least the steps of the throne have been +splashed with royal blood shed by a princely hand. +Duels</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c3">SPANISH LIVING AND +DYING 35</span></p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">between noble +cousins and stabbing affrays between peasant brothers alike +attest the unbending sense of personal dignity that still infects +this people.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">A light word +between husbands and wives sometimes goes unexplained, and the +rift between them widens through life. I know some houses where +the wife enters at one door and the husband at another; where if +they meet on the stairs, they do not salute each other. Under the +same roof they have lived for years and have not spoken. One word +would heal all discord, and that word will never be spoken by +either. They cannot be divorced,--the Church is inexorable. They +will not incur the scandal of a public separation. So they pass +lives of lonely isolation in adjoining apartments, both thinking +rather better of each other and of themselves for this devilish +persistence.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">An infraction of +parental discipline is never forgiven. I knew a general whose +daughter fell in love with his adjutant, a clever and amiable +young officer. He had positively no objection to the suitor, but +was surprised that there should be any love-making in his house +without his previous suggestion. He refused his consent, and the +young</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">36 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">people were married +without it. The father and son-in-law went off on a campaign, +fought, and were wounded in the same battle. The general was +asked to recommend his son-in-law for promotion. "I have no +son-in-law!" "I mean your daughter's husband." "I have no +daughter." "I refer to Lieutenant Don Fulano de Tal. He is a good +officer. He distinguished himself greatly in the recent affair." +"Ah! otra cosa!" said the grim father-in-law. His hate could not +overcome his sense of justice. The youth got his promotion, but +his general will not recognize him at the club. It is in the +middle and lower classes that the most perfect pictures of the +true Spanish family are to be found. The aristocracy is more or +less infected with the contagion of Continental manners and +morals. You will find there the usual proportion of wives who +despise their husbands, and men who neglect their wives, and +children who do not honor their parents. The smartness of +American "pickles" has even made its appearance among the little +countesses of Madrid. A lady was eating an ice one day, hungrily +watched by the wide eyes of the infant heiress of the house. As +the latter saw the last hope vanishing before</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">SPANISH LIVING AND +DYING 37</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">the destroying +spoon, she cried out, "Thou eatest all and givest me +none,--maldita sea tu alma!" (accursed be thy soul). This +dreadful imprecation was greeted with roars of laughter from +admiring friends, and the profane little innocent was smothered +in kisses and cream.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Passing at noon by +any of the squares or shady places of Madrid, you will see dozens +of laboring-people at their meals. They sit on the ground, around +the steaming and savory <i>cocido</i> that forms the peasant +Spaniard's unvaried dinner. The foundation is of +<i>garbanzos,</i> the large chick-pea of the country, brought +originally to Europe by the Carthaginians,--the Roman +<i>cicer,</i> which gave its name to the greatest of the Latin +orators. All other available vegetables are thrown in; on days of +high gala a piece of meat is added, and some forehanded +housewives attain the climax of luxury by flavoring the compound +with a link of sausage. The mother brings the dinner and her +tawny brood of nestlings. A shady spot is selected for the feast. +The father dips his wooden spoon first into the vapory bowl, and +mother and babes follow with grave decorum. Idle loungers passing +these patriarchal groups, on their way to a vapid +French</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15"><b>38</b> CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">breakfast at a +restaurant, catch the fragrance of the <i>olla</i> and the +chatter of the family, and envy the dinner of herbs with +love.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">There is no people +so frugal. We often wonder how a Washington clerk can live on +twelve hundred dollars, but this would be luxury in expensive +Madrid. It is one of the dearest capitals in Europe. Foreigners +are never weary decrying its high prices for poor fare; but +Castilians live in good houses, dress well, receive their +intimate friends, and hold their own with the best in the +promenade, upon incomes that would seem penury to any country +parson in America. There are few of the nobility who retain the +great fortunes of former days. You can almost tell on your +fingers the tale of the grandees in Madrid who can live without +counting the cost. The army and navy are crowded with general +officers whose political services have obliged their promotion. +The state is too much impoverished to pay liberal salaries, and +yet the rank of these officers requires the maintenance of a +certain social position. Few of them are men of fortune. The +result is that necessity has taught them to live well upon +little, I knew widows who went everywhere in society,</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">SPANISH LIVING AND +DYING 39</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">whose daughters +were always charmingly dressed, who lived in a decent quarter of +the town, and who had no resources whatever but a husband's +pension.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">The best proof of +the capacity of Spaniards to spread a little gold over as much +space as a goldbeater could is the enormous competition for +public employment. Half the young men in Spain are candidates +for places under government ranging from $250 to $1000. Places of +$1500 to $2000 are considered objects of legitimate ambition even +to deputies and leading politicians. Expressed in reals these +sums have a large and satisfying sound. Fifty dollars seems +little enough for a month's work, but a thousand reals has the +look of a most respectable salary. In Portugal, however, you can +have all the delightful sensations of prodigality at <b>a</b> +contemptible cost. You can pay, without serious damage to your +purse, five thousand reis for your breakfast.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">It is the smallness +of incomes and the necessity of looking sharply to the means of +life that makes the young people of Madrid so prudent in their +love affairs. I know of no place where ugly heir-esses are such +belles, and where young men with</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14"><b>40</b> CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">handsome incomes +are so universally esteemed by all who know them. The stars on +the sleeves of young officers are more regarded than their +dancing, and the red belt of a field officer is as winning in the +eyes of beauty as a cestus of Venus. A. subaltern offered his +hand and heart to a black-eyed girl of Castile. She said kindly +but firmly that the night was too cloudy. "What," said the +stupefied lover, "the sky is full of stars." "I see but one," +said the prudent beauty, her fine eyes resting pensively upon his +cuff, where one lone luminary indicated his rank.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">This spirit is +really one of forethought, and not avarice. People who have +enough for two almost always marry from inclination, and +frequently take partners for life without a penny.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">If men were never +henpecked except by learned wives, Spain would be the place of +all others for timid men to marry in. The girls are bright, +vivacious, and naturally very clever, but they have scarcely any +education whatever. They never know the difference between +<i>b</i> and <i>v.</i> They throw themselves in orthography +entirely upon your benevolence. They know a little music and a +little French, but they have never crossed, even in a +school-day</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">SPANISH LIVING AND +DYING 41</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c20">excursion, the +border line of the ologies. They do not even read novels. They +are regarded as injurious, and cannot be trusted to the daughters +until mamma has read them. Mamma never has time to read them, and +so they are condemned by default. Fernán Caballero, in one +of her sleepy little romances, refers to this illiterate +character of the Spanish ladies, and says it is their chief +charm,--that a Christian woman, in good society, ought not to +know anything beyond her cookery-book and her missal.' There +is-an old proverb which coarsely conveys this idea: A mule that +whinnies and a woman that talks Latin never come to any +good.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">There is a +contented acquiescence in this moral servitude among the fair +Spaniards which would madden our agitatresses. (See what will +become of the language when male words are crowded out of the +dictionary!)</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">It must be the +innocence which springs from ignorance that induces an occasional +coarseness of expression which surprises you in the conversation +of those lovely young girls. They will speak with perfect freedom +of the <i>état-civil</i> of a young unmarried mother. A +maiden of fifteen said to me: "I must go to a party this evening +<i>décolletée,</i> and I hate</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">42 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">it. Benigno is +getting old enough to marry, and he wants to see all the girls in +low neck before he makes up his mind." They all swear like +troopers, without a thought of profanity. Their mildest +expression of surprise is Jesus Maria! They change their oaths +with the season. At the feast of the Immaculate Conception, the +favorite oath is Maria Purissima. This is a time of especial +interest to young girls. It is a period of compulsory +confession,--conscience-cleaning, as they call it. They are all +very pious in their way. They attend to their religious duties +with the same interest which they displayed a few years before in +dressing and undressing their dolls, and will display a few years +later in putting the lessons they learned with their dolls to a +more practical use.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The visible +concrete symbols and observances of religion have great influence +with them. They are fond of making vows in tight places and +faithfully observing them afterwards. In an hour's walk in the +streets of Madrid you will see a dozen ladies with a leather +strap buckled about their slender waists and hanging nearly to +the ground. Others wear a knotted cord and tassels. These are +worn as the fulfilment of vows, or penances.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-14.jpg" alt="cd1-14.jpg" class="c21"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">IN THE GARDEN OF THE +PRINCE, ARANJUEZ</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">SPANISH LIVING AND +DYING 43</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">I am afraid they +give rise to much worldly conjecture on the part of idle youth as +to what amiable sins these pretty penitents can have been guilty +of. It is not prudent to ask an explanation of the peculiar +mercy, or remorse, which this purgatorial strap commemorates. You +will probably not enlarge your stock of knowledge further than to +learn that the lady in question considers you a great +nuisance.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">The graceful lady +who, in ascending the throne of France, has not ceased to be a +thorough Spaniard, still preserves these pretty weaknesses of her +youth. She vowed a chapel to her patron saint if her firstborn +was a man-child, and paid it. She has hung a vestal lamp in the +Church of Nótre Dame des Victoires, in pursuance of a vow +she keeps rigidly secret. She is a firm believer in relics also, +and keeps a choice assortment on hand in the Tuileries for sudden +emergencies. When old Baciocchi lay near his death, worn out by a +horrible nervous disorder which would not let him sleep, the +empress told the doctors, with great mystery, that she would cure +him. After a few preliminary masses, she came into his room and +hung on his bedpost a little gold-embroidered sachet containing +(if the evidence</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">44 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">of holy men is to +be believed) a few threads of the swaddling-clothes of John the +Baptist. Her simple childlike faith wrung the last grim smile +from the tortured lips of the dying courtier.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The very names of +the Spanish women are a constant reminder of their worship. They +are all named out of the calendar of saints and virgin martyrs. A +large majority are christened Mary; but as this sacred name by +much use has lost all distinctive meaning, some attribute, some +especial invocation of the Virgin, is always coupled with it. The +names of Dolores, Mercedes, Milagros, recall Our Lady of the +Sorrows, of the Gifts, of the Miracles. I knew a hoydenish little +gypsy who bore the tearful name of Lagrimas. The most appropriate +name I heard for these large-eyed, soft-voiced beauties was +Peligros, Our Lady of Dangers. Who could resist the comforting +assurance of "Consuelo"? "Blessed," says my Lord Lytton, "is +woman who consoles." What an image of maiden purity goes with the +name of Nieves, the Virgin of the Snows! From a single cotillon +of Castilian girls you can construct the whole history of Our +Lady; Conception, Annunciation, Sorrows, Solitude, Assumption. As +young ladies are never</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">SPANISH LIVING AND +DYING 45</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">called by their +family names, but always by their baptismal appellations, you +cannot pass an evening in a Spanish <i>tertulia</i> without being +reminded of every stage in the life of the Immaculate Mother, +from Bethlehem to Calvary and beyond.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">The common use of +sacred words is universal in Catholic countries, but nowhere so +striking as in Spain. There is a little solemnity in the French +adieu. But the Spaniard says adiós instead of +"good-morning." No letter closes without the prayer, "God guard +your Grace many years!" They say a judge announces to a murderer +his sentence of death with the sacramental wish of length of +days. There is something a little shocking to a Yankee mind in +the label of Lachryma Christi; but in La Mancha they call +fritters the Grace of God.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">The piety of the +Spanish women does not prevent them from seeing some things +clearly enough with their bright eyes. One of the most bigoted +women in Spain recently said: "I hesitate to let my child go to +confession. The priests ask young girls such infamous questions, +that my cheeks burn when I think of them, after all these years." +I stood one Christmas Eve in the cold midnight</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15"><b>46</b> CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">wind, waiting for +the church doors to open for the night mass, the famous <i>misa +del gallo.</i> On the steps beside me sat a decent old woman with +her two daughters. At last she rose and said, "Girls, it is no +use waiting any longer. The priests won't leave their +housekeepers this cold night to save anybody's soul." In these +two cases, taken from the two extremes of the Catholic society, +there was no disrespect for the Church or for religion. Both +these women believed with a blind faith. But they could not help +seeing how unclean were the hands that dispensed the bread of +life.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The respect shown +to the priesthood as a body is marvellous, in view of the +profligate lives of many. The general progress of the age has +forced most of the dissolute priests into hypocrisy. But their +cynical immorality is still the bane of many families. And it +needs but a glance at the vile manual of confession, called the +Golden Key, the author of which is the too well known Padre +Claret, confessor to the queen, to see the systematic moral +poisoning the minds of Spanish women must undergo who pay due +attention to what is called their religious duties. If a +confessor obeys the injunctions of this high ecclesiastical +authority, his</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">SPANISH LIVING AND +DYING 47</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">fair penitents will +have nothing to learn from a diligent perusal of Faublas or +Casanova. It would, however, be unjust to the priesthood to +consider them all as corrupt as royal chaplains. It requires a +combination of convent and palace life to produce these finished +specimens of mitred infamy.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">It is to be +regretted that the Spanish women are kept in such systematic +ignorance. They have a quicker and more active intelligence than +the men. With a fair degree of education, much might be hoped +from them in the intellectual development of the country. In +society, you will at once be struck with the superiority of the +women to their husbands and brothers in cleverness and +appreciation. Among small tradesmen, the wife always comes to the +rescue of her slow spouse when she sees him befogged in a +bargain. In the fields, you ask a peasant some question about +your journey. He will hesitate, and stammer, and end with, +"<i>Quien sabe?"</i> but his wife will answer with glib +completeness all you want to know. I can imagine no cause for +this, unless it be that the men cloud their brains all day with +the fumes of tobacco, and the women do not.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">The personality of +the woman is not so entirely</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">48 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">merged in that of +the husband as among us. She retains her own baptismal and family +name through life. If Miss Matilda Smith marries Mr. Jonathan +Jones, all vestige of the former gentle being vanishes at once +from the earth, and Mrs. Jonathan Jones alone remains. But in +Spain she would become Mrs. Matilda Smith de Jones, and her +eldest-born would be called Don Juan Jones y Smith. You ask the +name of a married lady in society, and you hear as often her own +name as that of her husband.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Even among titled +people, the family name seems more highly valued than the titular +designation. Everybody knows Narvaez, but how few have heard of +the Duke of Valencia! The Regent Serrano has a name known and +honored over the world, but most people must think twice before +they remember the Duke de la Torre. Juan Prim is better known +than the Marques de los Castillejos ever will be. It is perhaps +due to the prodigality with which titles have been scattered in +late years that the older titles are more regarded than the new, +although of inferior grade. Thus Prim calls himself almost +invariably the Conde de Reus, though his grandeeship came with +his investiture as marquis.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">There is something +quite noticeable about this</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">SPANISH LIVING AND +DYING 49</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">easy way of +treating one's name. We are accustomed to think a man can have +but one name, and can sign it but in one way. Lord Derby can no +more call himself Mr. Stanley than President Grant can sign a +bill as U. Simpson. Yet both these signatures would be perfectly +valid according to Spanish analogy. The Marquis of Santa Marta +signs himself Guzman; the Marquis of Albaida uses no signature +but Orense; both of these gentlemen being Republican deputies. I +have seen General Prim's name signed officially, Conde de Reus, +Marques de los Castillejos, Prim, J. Prim, Juan Prim, and Jean +Prim, changing the style as often as the humor strikes +him.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Their forms of +courtesy are, however, invariable. You can never visit a Spaniard +without his informing you that you are in your own house. If, +walking with him, you pass his residence, he asks you to enter +your house and unfatigue yourself a moment. If you happen upon +any Spaniard, of whatever class, at the hour of repast, he always +offers you his dinner; if you decline, it must be with polite +wishes for his digestion. With the Spaniards, no news is good +news; it is therefore civil to ask a Spaniard if his lady-wife +goes on without novelty,</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">50 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">and to express your +profound gratification on being assured that she does. Their +forms of hospitality are evidently Moorish, derived from the +genuine open hand and open tent of the children of the desert; +now nothing is left of them but grave and decorous words. In the +old times, one who would have refused such offers would have been +held a churl; now one who would accept them would be regarded as +a boor.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">There is still +something primitive about the Spanish servants. A flavor of the +old romances and the old comedy still hangs about them. They are +chatty and confidential to a degree that appalls a stiff and +formal Englishman of the upper middle class. The British servant +is a chilly and statuesque image of propriety. The French is an +intelligent and sympathizing friend. You can make of him what you +like. But the Italian, and still more the Spaniard, is as gay as +a child, and as incapable of intentional disrespect. The +Castilian grandee does not regard his dignity as in danger from a +moment's chat with a waiter. He has no conception of that +ferocious decorum we Anglo-Saxons require from our manservants +and our maidservants. The Spanish servant seems to regard it as +part of his</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-15.jpg" alt="cd1-15.jpg" class="c22"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6">GARDENS OF <b>THE ROYAL +PALACE, MADRID</b></span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">SPANISH LIVING AND +DYING 51</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">duty to keep your +spirits gently excited while you dine by the gossip of the day. +He joins also in your discussions, whether they touch lightly on +the politics of the hour or plunge profoundly into the depths of +philosophic research. He laughs at your wit, and swings his +napkin with convulsions of mirth at your good stories. He tells +you the history of his life while you are breaking your egg, and +lays the story of his loves before you with your coffee. Yet he +is not intrusive. He will chatter on without waiting for a reply, +and when you are tired of him you can shut him off with a word. +There are few Spanish servants so uninteresting but that you can +find in them from time to time some sparks of that ineffable +light which shines forever in Sancho and Figaro.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">The traditions of +subordination, which are the result of long centuries of tyranny, +have prevented the development of that feeling of independence +among the lower orders, which in a freer race finds its +expression in ill manners and discourtesy to superiors. I knew a +gentleman in the West whose circumstances had forced him to +become a waiter in a backwoods restaurant. He bore a deadly +grudge at the profession that kept him from starv-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">52 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">ing, and asserted +his unconquered nobility of soul by scowling at his customers and +swearing at the viands he dispensed. I remember the deep sense of +wrong with which he would growl, "Two buckwheats, begawd!" You +see nothing of this defiant spirit in Spanish servants. They are +heartily glad to find employment, and ask no higher good-fortune +than to serve acceptably. As to drawing comparisons between +themselves and their masters, they never seem to think they +belong to the same race. I saw a pretty grisette once stop to +look at a show-window where there was a lay-figure completely +covered with all manner of trusses. She gazed at it long and +earnestly, evidently thinking it was some new fashion just +introduced into the gay world. At last she tripped away with all +the grace of her unfettered limbs, saying, "If the fine ladies +have to wear all those machines, I am glad I am not made like +them."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Whether it be from +their more regular and active lives, or from their being unable +to pay for medical attendance, the poorer classes suffer less +from sickness than their betters. An ordinary Spaniard is sick +but once in his life, and that once is enough,--'twill serve. The +traditions of the old satires</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">SPANISH LIVING AND +DYING 53</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">which represented +the doctor and death as always hunting in couples still survive +in Spain. It is taken as so entirely a matter of course that a +patient must die that the law of the land imposed a heavy fine +upon physicians who did not bring a priest on their second visit. +His labor of exhortation and confession was rarely wasted. There +were few sufferers who recovered from the shock of that solemn +ceremony in their chambers. Medical science still labors in Spain +under the ban of ostracism, imposed in the days when all research +was impiety. The Inquisition clamored for the blood of Vesalius, +who had committed the crime of a demonstration in anatomy. He was +forced into a pilgrimage of expiation, and died on the way to +Palestine. The Church has always looked with a jealous eye upon +the inquirers, the innovators. Why these probes, these lancets, +these multifarious drugs, when the object in view could be so +much more easily obtained by the judicious application of masses +and prayers?</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">So it has come +about that the doctor is a Pariah, and miracles flourish in the +Peninsula. At every considerable shrine you will see the walls +covered with waxen models of feet, legs, hands, and +arms</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">54 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">secured by the +miraculous interposition of the <i>genius loci,</i> and scores of +little crutches attesting the marvellous hour when they became +useless. Each shrine, like a mineral spring, has its own especial +virtue. A Santiago medal was better than quinine for ague. St. +Veronica's handkerchief is sovereign for sore eyes. A bone of St. +Magin supersedes the use of mercury. A finger-nail of San Frutos +cured at Segovia a case of congenital idiocy. The Virgin of +Oña acted as a vermifuge on royal infantas, and her girdle +at Tortosa smooths their passage into this world. In this age of +unfaith relics have lost much of their power. They turn out their +score or so of miracles every feast-day, it is true, but are no +longer capable of the <i>tours de force</i> of earlier days. +Cardinal de Retz saw with his eyes a man whose wooden legs were +turned to capering flesh and blood by the image of the Pillar of +Saragossa. But this was in the good old times before newspapers +and telegraphs had come to dispel the twilight of +belief.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Now, it is +excessively probable that neither doctor nor priest can do much +if the patient is hit in earnest. He soon succumbs, and is laid +out in his best clothes in an improvised chapel and duly +sped</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">SPANISH LIVING AND +DYING 55</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">on his way. The +custom of burying the dead in the gown and cowl of monks has +greatly passed into disuse. The mortal relics are treated with +growing contempt, as the superstitions of the people gradually +lose their concrete character. The soul is the important matter +which the Church now looks to. So the cold clay is carted off to +the cemetery with small ceremony. Even the coffins of the rich +are jammed away into receptacles too small for them, and hastily +plastered out of sight. The poor are carried off on trestles and +huddled into their nameless graves, without following or +blessing. Children are buried with some regard to the old +Oriental customs. The coffin is of some gay and cheerful color, +pink or blue, and is carried open to the grave by four of the +dead child's young companions, a fifth walking behind with the +ribboned coffin-lid. I have often seen these touching little +parties moving through the bustling streets, the peaceful small +face asleep under the open sky, decked with the fading roses and +withering lilies. In all well-to-do families the house of death +is deserted immediately after the funeral. The stricken ones +retire to some other habitation, and there pass eight days in +strict and inviolable seclusion. On</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">56 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">the ninth day the +great masses for the repose of the soul of the departed are said +in the parish church, and all the friends of the family are +expected to be present. These masses are the most important and +expensive incident of the funeral. They cost from two hundred to +one thousand dollars, according to the strength and fervor of the +orisons employed. They are repeated several years on the +anniversary of the decease, and afford a most sure and nourishing +revenue to the Church. They are founded upon those feelings +inseparable from every human heart, vanity and affection. Our +dead friends must be as well prayed for as those of others, and +who knows but that they may be in deadly need of prayers! To +shorten their fiery penance by one hour, who would not fast for a +week? On these anniversaries a black-bordered advertisement +appears in the newspapers, headed by the sign of the cross and +the Requiescat in Pace, announcing that on this day twelve months +Don Fulano de Tal passed from earth garnished with the holy +sacraments, that all the masses this day celebrated in such and +such churches will be applied to the benefit of his spirit's +repose, and that all Christian friends are hereby requested to +commend his</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-16.jpg" alt="cd1-16.jpg" class="c23"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">THE BRIDGE OF SEGOVIA, +MADRID</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">SPANISH LIVING AND +DYING 57</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">soul this day unto +God. These efforts, if they do the dead no good, at least do the +living no harm.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">A luxury of grief, +in those who can afford it, consists in shutting up the house +where a death has taken place and never suffering it to be opened +again. I once saw a beautiful house and wide garden thus +abandoned in one of the most fashionable streets of Madrid. I +inquired about it, and found it was formerly the residence of the +Duke of------. His wife had died there many years before, and +since that day not a door nor a window had been opened. The +garden gates were red and rough with rust. Grass grew tall and +rank in the gravelled walks. A thick lush undergrowth had overrun +the flower-beds and the lawns. The blinds were rotting over the +darkened windows. Luxuriant vines clambered over all the mossy +doors. The stucco was peeling from the walls in unwholesome +blotches. Wild birds sang all day in the safe solitude. There was +something impressive in this spot of mould and silence, lying +there so green and implacable in the very heart of a great and +noisy city. The duke lived in Paris, leading the rattling life of +a man of the world. He never would sell or let that Madrid house. +Perhaps in his heart also, that battered</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">58 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">thoroughfare worn +by the pattering boots of Ma-bine and the Bois, and the Quartier +Breda, there was a green spot sacred to memory and silence, where +no footfall should ever light, where no living voice should ever +be heard, shut out from the world and its cares and its +pleasures, where through the gloom of dead days he could catch a +glimpse of a white hand, a flash of a dark eye, the rustle of a +trailing robe, and feel sweeping over him the old magic of love's +young dream, softening his fancy to tender regret and his eyes to +a happy mist--</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font9 c24">"Like that which +kept the heart of Eden green Before the useful trouble of the +rain."</span><br> +</p> + +<img src="images/cd1-17.jpg" alt="cd1-17.jpg" class="c25"> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-18.jpg" alt="cd1-18.jpg" class="c26"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c20">INFLUENCE OF +TRADITION IN SPANISH LIFE</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">INTELLIGENT +Spaniards with whom I have conversed on political matters have +often exclaimed, "Ah, you Americans are happy! you have no +traditions." The phrase was at first a puzzling one. We Americans +are apt to think we have traditions,--a rather clearly marked +line of precedents. And it is hard to see how a people should be +happier without them. It is not anywhere considered a misfortune +to have had a grandfather, I believe, and some very good folks +take an innocent pride in that very natural fact. It was not easy +to con-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">60 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">ceive why the +possession of a glorious history of many centuries should be +regarded as a drawback. But a closer observation of Spanish life +and thought reveals the curious and hurtful effect of tradition +upon every phase of existence.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">In the commonest +events of every day you will find the flavor of past ages +lingering in petty annoyances. The insecurity of the middle ages +has left as a legacy to our times a complicated system of +obstacles to a man getting into his own house at night. I lived +in a pleasant house on the Prado, with a minute garden in front, +and an iron gate and railing. This gate was shut and locked by +the night watchman of the quarter at midnight,--so +conscientiously that he usually had everything snug by half past +eleven. As the same man had charge of a dozen or more houses, it +was scarcely reasonable to expect him to be always at your own +gate when you arrived. But by a singular fatality I think no man +ever found him in sight at any hour. He is always opening some +other gate or shutting some other door, or settling the affairs +of the nation with a friend in the next block, or carrying on a +chronic courtship at the lattice of some olive-cheeked soubrette +around the corner. Be that as</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">INFLUENCE OF TRADITION +61</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">it may, no one ever +found him on hand; and there is nothing to do but to sit down on +the curbstone and lift up your voice and shriek for him until he +comes. At two o'clock of a morning in January the exercise is not +improving to the larynx or the temper. There is a tradition in +the very name of this worthy. He is called the Sereno, because a +century or so ago he used to call the hour and the state of the +weather, and as the sky is almost always cloudless here, he got +the name of the Sereno, as the quail is called Bob White, from +much iteration. The Sereno opens your gate and the door of your +house. When you come to your own floor you must ring, and your +servant takes a careful survey of you through a latticed +peep-hole before he will let you in. You may positively forbid +this every day in the year, but the force of habit is too strong +in the Spanish mind to suffer amendment.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">This absurd custom +comes evidently down from a time of great lawlessness and +license, when no houses were secure without these precautions, +when people rarely stirred from their doors after nightfall, and +when a door was never opened to a stranger. Now, when no such +dangers exist, the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">62 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">annoying and +senseless habit still remains, because no one dreams of changing +anything which their fathers thought proper. Three hundred +thousand people in Madrid submit year after year to this nightly +cross, and I have never heard a voice raised in protest, nor even +in defence of the custom.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">There is often a +bitterness of opposition to evident improvement which is hard to +explain. In the last century, when the eminent naturalist Bowles +went down to the Almadén silver-mines, by appointment of +the government, to see what was the cause of their exhaustion, he +found that they had been worked entirely in perpendicular shafts +instead of following the direction of the veins. He perfected a +plan for working them in this simple and reasonable way, and no +earthly power could make the Spanish miners obey his orders. +There was no precedent for this new process, and they would not +touch it. They preferred starvation rather than offend the memory +of their fathers by a change. At last they had to be dismissed +and a full force imported from Germany, under whose hands the +mines became instantly enormously productive.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">I once asked a very +intelligent English contractor</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">INFLUENCE OF TRADITION +63</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">why he used no +wheelbarrows in his work. He had some hundreds of stalwart +navvies employed carrying dirt in small wicker baskets to an +embankment. He said the men would not use them. Some said it +broke their backs. Others discovered a capital way of amusing +themselves by putting the barrow on their heads and whirling the +wheel as rapidly as possible with their hands. This was a game +which never grew stale. The contractor gave up in despair, and +went back to the baskets. But it is in the official regions that +tradition is most powerful. In the budget of 1870 there was a +curious chapter called "Charges of Justice." This consisted of a +collection of articles appropriating large sums of money for the +payment of feudal taxes to the great aristocracy of the kingdom +as a compensation for long extinct seigniories. The Duke of Rivas +got thirteen hundred dollars for carrying the mail to Victoria. +The Duke of San Carlos draws ten thousand dollars for carrying +the royal correspondence to the Indies. Of course this service +ceased to belong to these families some centuries ago, but the +salary is still paid. The Duke of Almodovar is well paid for +supplying the <i>baton</i> of office to the Alguazil of Cordova. +The Duke of</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">64 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Osuna--one of the +greatest grandees of the kingdom, a gentleman who has the right +to wear seventeen hats in the presence of the Queen--receives +fifty thousand dollars a year for imaginary feudal services. The +Count of Altamira, who, as his name indicates, is a gentleman of +high views, receives as a salve for the suppression of his fief +thirty thousand dollars a year. In consideration of this sum he +surrenders, while it is punctually paid, the privilege of hanging +his neighbors.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">When the budget was +discussed, a Republican member gently criticised this chapter; +but his amendment for an investigation of these charges was +indignantly rejected. He was accused of a shocking want of +Españolismo. He was thought to have no feeling in his +heart for the glories of Spain. The respectability of the Chamber +could find but one word injurious enough to express their +contempt for so shameless a proposition; they said it was little +better than socialism. The "charges" were all voted. Spain, +tottering on the perilous verge of bankruptcy, her schoolmasters +not paid for months, her sinking fund plundered, her credit gone +out of sight, borrowing every cent she spends at thirty per +cent., is proud</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-19.jpg" alt="cd1-19.jpg" class="c27"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">THE ROYAL PALACE, +MADRID</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">INFLUENCE OF TRADITION +65</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">of the privilege of +paying into the hands of her richest and most useless class this +gratuity of twelve million reals simply because they are +descended from the robber chiefs of the darker ages. There is a +curious little comedy played by the family of Medina Celi at +every new coronation of a king of Spain. The duke claims to be +the rightful heir to the throne. He is descended from Prince +Ferdinand, who, dying before his father, Don Alonso X., left his +babies exposed to the cruel kindness of their uncle Sancho, who, +to save them the troubles of the throne, assumed it himself and +transmitted it to his children,--all this some half dozen +centuries ago. At every coronation the duke formally protests; an +athletic and sinister-looking court headsman comes down to his +palace in the Carrera San Gerónimo, and by threats of +immediate decapitation induces the duke to sign a paper +abdicating his rights to the throne of all the Spains. The duke +eats the Bourbon leek with inward profanity, and feels that he +has done a most clever and proper thing. This performance is +apparently his only object and mission in life. This one +sacrifice to tradition is what he is born for.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15"><b>66</b> CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The most important +part of a Spaniard's signature is the <i>rubrica</i> or flourish +with which it closes. The monarch's hand is set to public acts +exclusively by this <i>parafe.</i> This evidently dates from the +time when none but priests could write. In Madrid the mule-teams +are driven tandem through the wide streets, because this was +necessary in the ages when the streets were narrow.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">There is even a +show of argument sometimes to justify an adherence to things as +they are. About a century ago there was an effort made by people +who had lived abroad, and so become conscious of the possession +of noses, to have the streets of Madrid cleaned. The proposition +was at first received with apathetic contempt, but when the +innovators persevered they met the earnest and successful +opposition of all classes. The Cas-tilian <i>savans</i> gravely +reported that the air of Madrid, which blew down from the snowy +Guadarra-mas, was so thin and piercing that it absolutely needed +the gentle corrective of the ordure-heaps to make it fit for +human lungs.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">There is no nation +in Europe in which so little washing is done. I do not think it +is because the Spaniards do not want to be neat. They are, +on</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">INFLUENCE OF TRADITION +67</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">the whole, the +best-dressed people on the Continent. The hate of ablutions +descends from those centuries of warfare with the Moors. The +heathens washed themselves daily; therefore a Christian should +not. The monks, who were too lazy to bathe, taught their +followers to be filthy by precept and example. Water was never to +be applied externally except in baptism. It was a treacherous +element, and dallying with it had gotten Bathsheba and Susanna +into no end of trouble. So when the cleanly infidels were driven +out of Granada, the pious and hydrophobic Cardinal Ximenez +persuaded the Catholic sovereigns to destroy the abomination of +baths they left behind. Until very recently the Spanish mind has +been unable to separate a certain idea of immorality from +bathing. When Madame Daunoy, one of the sprightliest of +observers, visited the court of Philip IV., she found it was +considered shocking among the ladies of the best society to wash +the face and hands. Once or twice a week they would glaze their +pretty visages with the white of an egg. Of late years this +prejudice has given way somewhat; but it has lasted longer than +any monument in Spain.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">These, however, are +but trivial manifestations</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">68 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">of that power of +tradition which holds the Spanish intellect imprisoned as in a +vice of iron. The whole life of the nation is fatally influenced +by this blind reverence for things that have been. It may be said +that by force of tradition Christian morality has been driven +from individual life by religion, and honesty has been supplanted +as a rule of public conduct by honor,--a wretched substitute in +either case, and irreconcilably at war with the spirit of the +age.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The growth of this +double fanaticism is easily explained; it is the result of +centuries of religious wars. From the hour when Pelayo, the first +of the Asturian kings, successfully met and repulsed the hitherto +victorious Moors in his rocky fortress of Covadonga, to the day +when Boabdil the Unlucky saw for the last time through streaming +tears the vermilion towers of Alhambra crowned with the banner of +the cross, there was not a year of peace in Spain. No other +nation has had such an experience. Seven centuries of constant +warfare, with three thousand battles; this is the startling +epitome of Spanish history from the Mahometan conquest to the +reign of Ferdinand and Isabella. In this vast war there was laid +the foundation of the national character of to-day.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">INFLUENCE OF TRADITION +69</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Even before the +conquering Moslem crossed from Africa, Spain was the most deeply +religious country in Europe; and by this I mean the country in +which the Church was most powerful in its relations with the +State. When the Council of Toledo, in 633, received the king of +Castile, he fell on his face at the feet of the bishops before +venturing to address them. When the hosts of Islam had overspread +the Peninsula, and the last remnant of Christianity had taken +refuge in the inaccessible hills of the northwest, the richest +possession they carried into these inviolate fastnesses was a +chest of relics,--knuckle-bones of apostles and splinters of true +crosses, in which they trusted more than in mortal arms. The +Church had thus a favorable material to work upon in the years of +struggle that followed. The circumstances all lent themselves to +the scheme of spiritual domination. The fight was for the cross +against the crescent; the symbol of the quarrel was visible and +tangible. The Spaniards were poor and ignorant and credulous. The +priests were enough superior to lead and guide them, and not so +far above them as to be out of the reach of their sympathies and +their love. They marched with them. They shared their +toils</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">70 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">and dangers. They +stimulated their hate of the enemy. They taught them that their +cruel anger was the holy wrath of God. They held the keys of +eternal weal or woe, and rewarded subservience to the priestly +power with promises of everlasting felicity; while the least +symptom of rebellion in thought or action was punished with swift +death and the doom of endless flames. There was nothing in the +Church which the fighting Spaniard could recognize as a reproach +to himself. It was as bitter, as brave, as fierce, and revengeful +as he. His credulity regarded it as divine, and worthy of blind +adoration, and his heart went out to it with the sympathy of +perfect love.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">In these centuries +of war there was no commerce, no manufactures, no settled +industry of importance among the Spaniards. There was +consequently no wealth, none of that comfort and ease which is +the natural element of doubt and discussion. Science did not +exist. The little learning of the time was exclusively in the +hands of the priesthood. If from time to time an intelligent +spirit struggled against the chain of unquestioning bigotry that +bound him, he was rigorously silenced by prompt and bloody +punishment. There seemed</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">INFLUENCE OF TRADITION +71</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">to be no need of +discussion, no need of inculcation of doctrine. The serious work +of the time was the war with the infidel. The clergy managed +everything. The question, "What shall I do to be saved?" never +entered into those simple and ignorant minds. The Church would +take care of those who did her bidding.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Thus it was that in +the hammering of those struggling ages the nation became welded +together in one compact mass of unquestioning, unreasoning faith, +which the Church could manage at its own good +pleasure.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">It was also in +these times that Spanish honor took its rise. This sentiment is +so nearly connected with that of personal loyalty that they may +be regarded as phases of the same monarchical spirit. The rule of +honor as distinguished from honesty and virtue is the most +prominent characteristic of monarchy, and for that reason the +political theorists from the time of Montesquieu have pronounced +in favor of the monarchy as a more practicable form of government +than the republic, as requiring a less perfect and delicate +machinery, men of honor being far more common than men of virtue. +As in Spain, owing to special conditions, monarchy attained +the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">72 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">most perfect growth +and development which the world has seen, the sentiment of honor, +as a rule of personal and political action, has there reached its +most exaggerated form. I use this word, of course, in its +restricted meaning of an intense sense of personal dignity, and +readiness to sacrifice for this all considerations of interest +and morality.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">This phase of the +Spanish character is probably derived in its germ from the Gothic +blood of their ancestors. Their intense self-assertion has been, +in the Northern races, modified by the progress of intelligence +and the restraints of municipal law into a spirit of sturdy +self-respect and a disinclination to submit to wrong. The Goths +of Spain have unfortunately never gone through this civilizing +process. Their endless wars never gave an opportunity for the +development of the purely civic virtues of respect and obedience +to law. The people at large were too wretched, too harried by +constant coming and going of the waves of war, to do more than +live, in a shiftless, hand-to-mouth way, from the proceeds of +their flocks and herds. There were no cities of importance within +the Spanish lines. There was no opportunity for the growth of the +true burgher spirit.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-20.jpg" alt="cd1-20.jpg" class="c28"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">SALON DE LOS REYES +CATÓLICOS, ARANJUEZ</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">INFLUENCE OF TRADITION +73</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">There was no law to +speak of in all these years except the twin despotism of the +Church and the king. If there had been dissidence between them it +might have been better for the people. But up to late years there +has never been a quarrel between the clergy and the crown. Their +interests were so identified that the dual tyranny was stronger +than even a single one could have been. The crown always lending +to the Church when necessary the arm of flesh, and the Church +giving to the despotism of the sceptre the sanction of spiritual +authority, an absolute power was established over body and +soul.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The spirit of +individual independence inseparable from Gothic blood being thus +forced out of its natural channels of freedom of thought and +municipal liberty, it remained in the cavaliers of the army of +Spain in the same barbarous form which it had held in the +Northern forests,--a physical self-esteem and a readiness to +fight on the slightest provocation. This did not interfere with +the designs of the Church and was rather a useful engine against +its enemies. The absolute power of the crown kept the spirit of +feudal arrogance in check while the pressure of a com-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">74 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">mon danger existed. +The close cohesion which was so necessary in camp and Church +prevented the tendency to disintegration, while the right of life +and death was freely exercised by the great lords on their +distant estates without interference. The predominating power of +the crown was too great and too absolute to result in the +establishment of any fixed principle of obedience to law. The +union of crozier and sceptre had been, if anything, too +successful. The king was so far above the nobility that there was +no virtue in obeying him. His commission was divine, and he was +no more confined by human laws than the stars and the comets. The +obedience they owed and paid him was not respect to law. It +partook of the character of religious worship, and left untouched +and untamed in their savage hearts the instinct of resistance to +all earthly claims of authority.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Such was the +condition of the public spirit of Spain at the beginning of that +wonderful series of reigns from Ferdinand and Isabella to their +great-grandson Philip II., which in less than a century raised +Spain to the summit of greatness and built up a realm on which +the sun never set. All the events of these prodigious reigns +contributed to</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">INFLUENCE OF TRADITION +75</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">increase and +intensify the national traits to which we have referred. The +discovery of America flooded Europe with gold, and making the +better class of Spaniards the richest people in the world +naturally heightened their pride and arrogance. The long and +eventful religious wars of Charles V. and Philip II. gave +employment and distinction to thousands of families whose vanity +was nursed by the royal favor, and whose ferocious self-will was +fed and pampered by the blood of heretics and the spoil of +rebels.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The national +qualities of superstition and pride made the whole cavalier class +a wieldy and effective weapon in the hands of the monarch, and +the use he made of them reacted upon these very traits, +intensifying and affirming them.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">So terrible was +this absolute command of the spiritual and physical forces of the +kingdom possessed by the monarchs of that day, that when the +Reformation flashed out, a beacon in the northern sky of +political and religious freedom to the world, its light could not +penetrate into Spain. There was a momentary struggle there, it is +true. But so apathetic was the popular mind that the effort to +bring it into sympathy with the vast movement</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">76 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">of the age was +hopeless from the beginning. The axe and the fagot made rapid +work of the heresy. After only ten years of burnings and +beheadings Philip II. could boast that not a heretic lived in his +borders.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Crazed by his +success and his unquestioned omnipotence at home, and drunken +with the delirious dream that God's wrath was breathing through +him upon a revolted world, he essayed to crush heresy throughout +Europe; and in this mad and awful crime his people undoubtingly +seconded him. In this he failed, the stars in their courses +fighting against him, the God that his worship slandered taking +sides against him. But history records what rivers of blood he +shed in the long and desperate fight, and how lovingly and +adoringly his people sustained him. He killed, in cold blood, +some forty thousand harmless people for their faith, besides the +vastly greater number whose lives he took in battle.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Yet this horrible +monster, who is blackened with every crime at which humanity +shudders, who had no grace of manhood, no touch of humanity, no +gleam of sympathy which could redeem the gloomy picture of his +ravening life, was be-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">INFLUENCE OF TRADITION +77</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">loved and +worshipped as few men have been since the world has stood. The +common people mourned him at his death with genuine unpaid sobs +and tears. They will weep even yet at the story of his edifying +death,--this monkish vampire breathing his last with his eyes +fixed on the cross of the mild Nazarene, and tormented with +impish doubts as to whether he had drunk blood enough to fit him +for the company of the just!</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">His successors +rapidly fooled away the stupendous empire that had filled the +sixteenth century with its glory. Spain sank from the position of +ruler of the world and queen of the seas to the place of a +second-rate power, by reason of the weakening power of +superstition and bad government, and because the people and the +chieftains had never learned the lesson of law.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The clergy lost no +tittle of their power. They went on, gayly roasting their +heretics and devouring the substance of the people, more +prosperous than ever in those days of national decadence. Philip +III. gave up the government entirely to the Duke of Lerma, who +formed an alliance with the Church, and they led together a +joyous life. In the succeeding reign the Church had become +such</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font16">78 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">a gnawing cancer +upon the state that the servile Cortes had the pluck to protest +against its inroads. There were in 1626 nine thousand monasteries +for men, besides nunneries. There were thirty-two thousand +Dominican and Franciscan friars. In the diocese of Seville alone +there were fourteen thousand chaplains. There was a panic in the +land. Every one was rushing to get into holy orders. The Church +had all the bread. Men must be monks or starve. <i>Zelus domus +tuae come-dit me,</i> writes the British ambassador, detailing +these facts.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">We must remember +that this was the age when the vast modern movement of inquiry +and investigation was beginning. Bacon was laying in England the +foundations of philosophy, casting with his prophetic +intelligence the horoscope of unborn sciences. Descartes was +opening new vistas of thought to the world. But in Spain, while +the greatest names of her literature occur at this time, they +aimed at no higher object than to amuse their betters. Cervantes +wrote Quixote, but he died in a monk's hood; and Lope de Vega was +a familiar of the Inquisition. The sad story of the mind of Spain +in this momentous period may be written in</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">INFLUENCE OF TRADITION +79</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">one +word,--everybody believed and nobody inquired.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The country sank +fast into famine and anarchy. The madness of the monks and the +folly of the king expelled the Moors in 1609, and the loss of a +million of the best mechanics and farmers of Spain struck the +nation with a torpor like that of death. In 1650 Sir Edward Hyde +wrote that "affairs were in huge disorder." People murdered each +other for a loaf of bread. The marine perished for want of +sailors. In the stricken land nothing flourished but the rabble +of monks and the royal authority.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">This is the curious +fact. The Church and the Crown had brought them to this misery, +yet better than their lives the Spaniards loved the Church and +the Crown. A word against either would have cost any man his life +in those days. The old alliance still hung together firmly. The +Church bullied and dragooned the king in private, but it valued +his despotic power too highly ever to slight it in public. There +was something superhuman about the faith and veneration with +which the people, and the aristocracy as well, regarded the +person of the king. There was somewhat of</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">80 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">gloomy and +ferocious dignity about Philip II. which might easily bring a +courtier to his knees; but how can we account for the equal +reverence that was paid to the ninny Philip III., the debauched +trifler Philip IV., and the drivelling idiot Charles +II.?</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Yet all of these +were invested with the same attributes of the divine. Their +hands, like those of Midas, had the gift of making anything they +touched too precious for mortal use. A horse they had mounted +could never be ridden again. A woman they had loved must enter a +nunnery when they were tired of her.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">When Buckingham +came down to Spain with Charles of England, the Conde-Duque of +Olivares was shocked and scandalized at the relation of +confidential friendship that existed between the prince and the +duke. The world never saw a prouder man than Olivares. His +picture by Velazquez hangs side by side with that of his royal +master in Madrid. You see at a glance that the count-duke is the +better man physically, mentally, morally. But he never dreamed +it. He thought in his inmost heart that the best thing about him +was the favor of the worthless fribble whom he +governed.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">INFLUENCE OF TRADITION +81</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Through all the +vicissitudes of Spanish history the force of these married +superstitions--reverence for the Church as distinguished from the +fear of God, and reverence for the king as distinguished from +respect for law--have been the ruling characteristics of the +Spanish mind. Among the fatal effects of this has been the +extinction of rational piety and rational patriotism. If a man +was not a good Catholic he was pretty sure to be an atheist. If +he did not honor the king he was an outlaw. The wretched story of +Spanish dissensions beyond seas, and the loss of the vast +American empire, is distinctly traceable to the exaggerated +sentiment of personal honor, unrestrained by the absolute +authority of the crown. It seems impossible for the Spaniard of +history and tradition to obey anything out of his sight. The +American provinces have been lost one by one through petty +quarrels and colonial rivalries. At the first word of dispute +their notion of honor obliges them to fly to arms, and when blood +has been shed reconciliation is impossible. So weak is the +principle of territorial loyalty, that whenever the Peninsula +government finds it necessary to overrule some violence of its +own soldiers, these find no difficulty in marching</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15"><b>82</b> CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">over to the +insurrection, or raising a fresh rebellion of their own. So +little progress has there been in Spain from the middle ages to +to-day in true political science, that we see such butchers as +Caballero and Valmaseda repeating to-day the crimes and follies +of Cortes and Pamfilo Narvaez, of Pizarro and Almagro, and the +revolt of the bloodthirsty volunteers of the Havana is only a +question of time.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">It is true that in +later years there has been the beginning of a better system of +thought and discussion in Spain. But the old tradition still +holds its own gallantly in Church and state. Nowhere in the world +are the forms of religion so rigidly observed, and the precepts +of Christian morality less regarded. The most facile beauties in +Madrid are severe as Minervas on Holy Thursday. I have seen a +dozen fast men at the door of a gambling-house fall on their +knees in the dust as the Host passed by in the street. Yet the +fair were no less frail and the señoritos were no less +profligate for this unfeigned reverence for the outside of the +cup and platter.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">In the domain of +politics there is still the lamentable disproportion between +honor and honesty. A</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-21.jpg" alt="cd1-21.jpg" class="c29"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5">NEW MADRID</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">INFLUENCE OF TRADITION +83</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">high functionary +cares nothing if the whole Salon del Prado talks of his +pilferings, but he will risk his life in an instant if you call +him no gentleman. The word "honor" is still used in all +legislative assemblies, even in England and America. But the idea +has gone by the board in all democracies, and the word means no +more than the chamberlain's sword or the speaker's mace. The only +criterion which the statesman of the nineteenth century applies +to public acts is that of expediency and legality. The first +question is, "Is it lawful?" the second, "Does it pay?" Both of +these are questions of fact, and as such susceptible of +discussion and proof. The question of honor and religion carries +us at once into the realm of sentiment where no demonstration is +possible. But this is where every question is planted from the +beginning in Spanish politics. Every public matter presents +itself under this form: "Is it consistent with Spanish honor?" +and "Will it be to the advantage of the Roman Catholic Apostolic +Church?" Now, nothing is consistent with Spanish honor which does +not recognize the Spain of to-day as identical with the Spain of +the sixteenth century, and the bankrupt government of +Madrid</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">84 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">as equal in +authority to the world-wide autocracy of Charles V. And nothing +is thought to be to the advantage of the Church which does not +tend to the concubinage of the spiritual and temporal power, and +to the muzzling of speech and the drugging of the mind to +sleep.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Let any proposition +be made which touches this traditional susceptibility of race, no +matter how sensible or profitable it may be, and you hear in the +Cortes and the press, and, louder than all, among the idle +cavaliers of the <i>cafés,</i> the wildest denunciations +of the treason that would consent to look at things as they are. +The men who have ventured to support the common-sense view are +speedily stormed into silence or timid self-defence. The sword of +Guzman is brandished in the Chambers, the name of Pelayo is +invoked, the memory of the Cid is awakened, and the proposition +goes out in a blaze of patriotic pyrotechnics, to the intense +satisfaction of the unthinking and the grief of the judicious. +The señoritos go back to the serious business of their +lives--coffee and cigarettes--with a genuine glow of pride in a +country which is capable of the noble self-sacrifice of cutting +off its nose to spite somebody else's face.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">INFLUENCE OF TRADITION +85</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">But I repeat, the +most favorable sign of the times is that this tyranny of +tradition is losing its power. A great deal was done by the +single act of driving out the queen. This was a blow at +superstition which gave to the whole body politic a most salutary +shock. Never before in Spain had a revolution been directed at +the throne. Before it was always an obnoxious ministry that was +to be driven out. The monarch remained; and the exiled outlaw of +to-day might be premier to-morrow. But the fall of Novaliches at +the Bridge of Alcolea decided the fate not only of the ministry +but of the dynasty; and while General Concha was waiting for the +train to leave Madrid, Isabel of Bourbon and Divine Right were +passing the Pyrenees.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Although the moral +power of the Church is still so great, the incorporation of +freedom of worship in the constitution of 1869 has been followed +by a really remarkable development of freedom of thought. The +proposition was regarded by some with horror and by others with +contempt. One of the most enlightened statesmen in Spain once +said to me, "The provision for freedom of worship in the +constitution is a mere abstract proposition,--</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">86 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">it can never have +any practical value except for foreigners. I cannot conceive of a +Spaniard being anything but a Catholic." And so powerful was this +impression in the minds of the deputies that the article only +accords freedom of worship to foreigners in Spain, and adds, +hypothetically, that if any Spaniards should profess any other +religion than the Catholic, they are entitled to the same liberty +as foreigners. The Inquisition has been dead half a century, but +you can see how its ghost still haunts the official mind of +Spain. It is touching to see how the broken links of the chain of +superstition still hang about even those who imagine they are +defying it. As in their Christian burials, following unwittingly +the example of the hated Moors, they bear the corpse with +uncovered face to the grave, and follow it with the funeral torch +of the Romans, so the formula of the Church clings even to the +mummery of the atheists. Not long ago in Madrid a man and woman +who belonged to some fantastic order which rejected religion and +law had a child born to them in the course of things, and +determined that it should begin life free from the taint of +superstition. It should not be christened, it should be named, in +the Name of</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">INFLUENCE OF TRADITION +87</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Reason. But they +could not break loose from the idea of baptism. They poured a +bottle of water on the shivering nape of the poor little +neophyte, and its frail life went out in its first wheezing +week.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">But in spite of all +this a spirit of religious inquiry is growing up in Spain, and +the Church sees it and cannot prevent it. It watches the liberal +newspapers and the Protestant prayer-meetings much as the old +giant in Bunyan's dream glared at the passing pilgrims, mumbling +and muttering toothless curses. It looks as if the dead sleep of +uniformity of thought were to be broken at last, and Spain were +to enter the healthful and vivifying atmosphere of +controversy.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Symptoms of a +similar change may be seen in the world of politics. The +Republican party is only a year or two old, but what a vigorous +and noisy infant it is! With all its faults and errors, it seems +to have the promise of a sturdy and wholesome future. It refuses +to be bound by the memories of the past, but keeps its eyes fixed +on the brighter possibilities to come. Its journals, undeterred +by the sword of Guzman or the honor of all the Caballeros,--the +men on horseback,--are advo-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15"><b>88</b> CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c20">eating such +sensible measures as justice to the Antilles, and the sale of +outlying property, which costs more than it produces. Emilio +Castelar, casting behind him all the restraints of tradition, +announces as his idea of liberty "the right of all citizens to +obey nothing but the law." There is no sounder doctrine than this +preached in Manchester or Boston. If the Spanish people can be +brought to see that God is greater than the Church, and that the +law is above the king, the day of final deliverance is at +hand.</span><br> +</p> + +<img src="images/cd1-22.jpg" alt="cd1-22.jpg" class="c30"> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-23.jpg" alt="cd1-23.jpg" class="c31"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font2">TAUROMACHY</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">THE bull-fight is +the national festival of Spain. The rigid Britons have had their +fling at it for many years. The effeminate <i>badaud</i> of Paris +has declaimed against its barbarity. Even the aristocracy of +Spain has begun to suspect it of vulgarity and to withdraw from +the arena the light of its noble countenance. But the Spanish +people still hold it to their hearts and refuse to be weaned from +it.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font9 c24">"As Panem et +Circenses was the cry Among the Roman populace of old, So Pan y +Toros is the cry in Spain."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c20">It is a tradition +which has passed into their national existence. They received it +from nowhere. They</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">90 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">have transmitted it +nowhither except to their own colonies. In late years an effort +has been made to transplant it, but with small success. There +were a few bull-fights four years ago at Havre. There was a +sensation of curiosity which soon died away. This year in London +the experiment was tried, but was hooted out of existence, to the +great displeasure of the Spanish journals, who said the ferocious +Islanders would doubtless greatly prefer baiting to death a half +dozen Irish serfs from the estate of Lord Fritters,--a gentle +diversion in which we are led to believe the British peers pass +their leisure hours.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">It is this monopoly +of the bull-fight which so endears it to the Spanish heart. It is +to them conclusive proof of the vast superiority of both the +human and taurine species in Spain. The eminent torero, Pepe +Illo, said: "The love of bulls is inherent in man, especially in +the Spaniard, among which glorious people there have been +bull-fights ever since bulls were, because," adds Pepe, with that +modesty which forms so charming a trait of the Iberian character, +"the Spanish men are as much more brave than all other men, as +the Spanish bull is more savage and valiant than all other +bulls."</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">TAUROMACHY +91</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The sport permeates +the national life. I have seen it woven into the tapestry of +palaces, and rudely stamped on the handkerchief of the peasant. +It is the favorite game of children in the street. Loyal Spain +was thrilled with joy recently on reading in its Paris +correspondence that when the exiled Prince of Asturias went for a +half-holiday to visit his imperial comrade at the Tuileries, the +urchins had a game of "toro" on the terrace, admirably conducted +by the little Bourbon and followed up with great spirit by the +little Montijo-Bonaparte.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The bull-fight has +not always enjoyed the royal favor. Isabel the Catholic would +fain have abolished bathing and bull-fighting together. The +Spaniards, who willingly gave up their ablutions, stood stoutly +by their bulls, and the energetic queen was baffled. Again when +the Bourbons came in with Philip V., the courtiers turned up +their thin noses at the coarse diversion, and induced the king to +abolish it. It would not stay abolished, however, and Philip's +successor built the present coliseum in expiation. The spectacle +has, nevertheless, lost much of its early splendor by the +hammering of time. Formerly the gayest and bravest gentlemen of +the court, mounted on the best horses</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">92 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c20">in the kingdom, +went into the arena and defied the bull in the names of their +lady-loves. Now the bull is baited and slain by hired artists, +and the horses they mount are the sorriest hacks that ever went +to the knacker.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c20">One of the most +brilliant shows of the kind that was ever put upon the scene was +the Festival of Bulls given by Philip IV. in honor of Charles +I.,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font9 c24">"When the Stuart +came from far, Led by his love's sweet pain, To Mary, the guiding +star That shone in the heaven of Spain."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">And the memory of +that dazzling occasion was renewed by Ferdinand VII. in the year +of his death, when he called upon his subjects to swear +allegiance to his baby Isabel. This festival took place in the +Plaza Mayor. The king and court occupied the same balconies which +Charles and his royal friend and model had filled two centuries +before. The champions were poor nobles, of good blood but scanty +substance, who fought for glory and pensions, and had quadrilles +of well-trained bull-fighters at their stirrups to prevent the +farce from becoming tragedy. The royal life of Isabel of Bourbon +was inaugurated by the spilled blood of</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">TAUROMACHY +93</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">one hundred bulls +save one. The gory prophecy of that day has been well sustained. +Not one year has passed since then free from blood shed in her +cause.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">But these +extraordinary attractions are not necessary to make a festival of +bulls the most seductive of all pleasures to a Spaniard. On any +pleasant Sunday afternoon, from Easter to All Souls, you have +only to go into the street to see that there is some great +excitement fusing the populace into one living mass of sympathy. +All faces are turned one way, all minds are filled with one +purpose. From the Puerta del Sol down the wide Alcalá a +vast crowd winds, solid as a glacier and bright as a +kaleidoscope. From the grandee in his blazoned carriage to the +manóla in her calico gown, there is no class +unrepresented. Many a red hand grasps the magic ticket which is +to open the realm of enchantment to-day, and which represents +short commons for a week before. The pawnbrokers' shops have been +very animated for the few preceding days. There is nothing too +precious to be parted with for the sake of the bulls. Many of +these smart girls have made the ultimate sacrifice for that +coveted scrap of paper. They would leave</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">94 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">one their mother's +cross with the children of Israel rather than not go. It is no +cheap entertainment. The worst places in the broiling sun cost +twenty cents, four reals; and the boxes are sold usually at +fifteen dollars. These prices are necessary to cover the heavy +expenses of bulls, horses, and gladiators.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The way to the +bull-ring is one of indescribable animation. The cabmen drive +furiously this day their broken-kneed nags, who will soon be +found on the horns of the bulls, for this is the natural death of +the Madrid cab-horse; the omnibus teams dash gayly along with +their shrill chime of bells; there are the rude jests of clowns +and the high voices of excited girls; the water-venders droning +their tempting cry, "Cool as the snow!" the sellers of fans and +the merchants of gingerbread picking up their harvests in the hot +and hungry crowd.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The Plaza de Toros +stands just outside the monumental gate of the Alcalá. It +is a low, squat, prison-like circus of stone, stuccoed and +whitewashed, with no pretence of ornament or architectural +effect. There is no nonsense whatever about it. It is built for +the killing of bulls and for no other purpose. Around it, on a +day of battle, you</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-24.jpg" alt="cd1-24.jpg" class="c32"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">ENTRANCE TO THE +BULL-RING, MADRID</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">TAUROMACHY +95</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">will find encamped +great armies of the lower class of Madrileños, who, being +at financial ebb-tide, cannot pay to go in. But they come all the +same, to be in the enchanted neighborhood, to hear the shouts and +roars of the favored ones within, and to seize any possible +occasion for getting in. Who knows? A caballero may come out and +give them his check. An English lady may become disgusted and go +home, taking away numerous lords whose places will be vacant. The +sky may fall, and they may catch four reals' worth of larks. It +is worth taking the chances.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">One does not soon +forget the first sight of the full coliseum. In the centre is the +sanded arena, surrounded by a high barrier. Around this rises the +graded succession of stone benches for the people; then numbered +seats for the connoisseurs; and above a row of boxes extending +around the circle. The building holds, when full, some fourteen +thousand persons; and there is rarely any vacant space. For +myself I can say that what I vainly strove to imagine in the +coliseum at Rome, and in the more solemn solitude of the +amphitheatres of Capua and Pompeii, came up before me with the +vividness of life on entering the bull-ring</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">96 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">of Madrid. This, +and none other, was the classic arena. This was the crowd that +sat expectant, under the blue sky, in the hot glare of the South, +while the doomed captives of Dacia or the sectaries of Judea +commended their souls to the gods of the Danube, or the Crucified +of Galilee. Half the sand lay in the blinding sun. Half the seats +were illuminated by the fierce light. The other half was in +shadow, and the dark crescent crept slowly all the afternoon +across the arena as the sun declined in the west.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">It is hard to +conceive a more brilliant scene. The women put on their gayest +finery for this occasion. In the warm light, every bit of color +flashes out, every combination falls naturally into its place. I +am afraid the luxuriance of hues in the dress of the fair +Iberians would be considered shocking in Broadway, but in the +vast frame and broad light of the Plaza the effect was very +brilliant. Thousands of party-colored paper fans are sold at the +ring. The favorite colors are the national red and yellow, and +the fluttering of these broad, bright disks of color is +dazzlingly attractive. There is a gayety of conversation, a quick +fire of repartee, shouts of recognition and salutation, which +altogether make up a bewildering confusion.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">TAUROMACHY +97</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The weary young +water-men scream their snow-cold refreshment. The orange-men walk +with their gold-freighted baskets along the barrier, and throw +their oranges with the most marvellous skill and certainty to +people in distant boxes or benches. They never miss their mark. +They will throw over the heads of a thousand people a dozen +oranges into the outstretched hands of customers, so swiftly that +it seems like one line of gold from the dealer to the +buyer.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">At length the blast +of a trumpet announces the clearing of the ring. The idlers who +have been lounging in the arena are swept out by the alguaciles, +and the hum of conversation gives way to an expectant silence. +When the last loafer has reluctantly retired, the great gate is +thrown open, and the procession of the toreros enters. They +advance in a glittering line: first the marshals of the day, then +the picadors on horseback, then the matadors on foot surrounded +each by his quadrille of chulos. They walk towards the box which +holds the city fathers, under whose patronage the show is given, +and formally salute the authority. This is all very classic, +also, recalling the <i>Ave Caesar, morituri,</i> etc., of the +gladiators. It lacks, however, the solemnity</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">98 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">of the Roman +salute, from those splendid fellows who would never all leave the +arena alive. A bullfighter is sometimes killed, it is true, but +the percentage of deadly danger is scarcely enough to make a +spectator's heart beat as the bedizened procession comes flashing +by in the sun.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The municipal +authority throws the bowing alguacil a key, which he catches in +his hat, or is hissed if he misses it. With this he unlocks the +door through which the bull is to enter, and then scampers off +with undignified haste through the opposite entrance. There is a +bugle flourish, the door flies open, and the bull rushes out, +blind with the staring light, furious with rage, trembling in +every limb. This is the most intense moment of the day. The +glorious brute is the target of twelve thousand pairs of eyes. +There is a silence as of death, while every one waits to see his +first movement. He is doomed from the beginning; the curtain has +risen on a three-act tragedy, which will surely end with his +death, but the incidents which are to fill the interval are all +unknown. The minds and eyes of all that vast assembly know +nothing for the time but the movements of that brute. He stands +for an instant recovering</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-25.jpg" alt="cd1-25.jpg" class="c33"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">THE +PROCESSION</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">TAUROMACHY +99</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">his senses. He has +been shot suddenly out of the darkness into that dazzling light. +He sees around him a sight such as he never confronted before,--a +wall of living faces lit up by thousands of staring eyes. He does +not dwell long upon this, however; in his pride and anger he sees +a nearer enemy. The horsemen have taken position near the gate, +where they sit motionless as burlesque statues, their long ashen +spears, iron-tipped, in rest, their wretched nags standing +blindfolded, with trembling knees, and necks like dromedaries, +not dreaming of their near fate. The bull rushes, with a snort, +at the nearest one. The picador holds firmly, planting his +spear-point in the shoulder of the brute. Sometimes the bull +flinches at this sharp and sudden punishment, and the picador, by +a sudden turn to the left, gets away unhurt. Then there is +applause for the torero and hisses for the bull. Some indignant +amateurs go so far as to call him cow, and to inform him that he +is the son of his mother. But oftener he rushes in, not caring +for the spear, and with one toss of his sharp horns tumbles horse +and rider in one heap against the barrier and upon the sand. The +capeadores, the cloak-bearers, come fluttering around and +divert</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">100 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">the bull from his +prostrate victims. The picador is lifted to his feet,--his iron +armor not permitting him to rise without help,--and the horse is +rapidly scanned to see if his wounds are immediately mortal. If +not, the picador mounts again, and provokes the bull to another +rush. A horse will usually endure two or three attacks before +dying. Sometimes a single blow from in front pierces the heart, +and the blood spouts forth in a cataract. In this case the +picador hastily dismounts, and the bridle and saddle are stripped +in an instant from the dying brute. If a bull is energetic and +rapid in execution, he will clear the arena in a few moments. He +rushes at one horse after another, tears them open with his +terrible "spears" ("horns" is a word never used in the ring), and +sends them madly galloping over the arena, trampling out their +gushing bowels as they fly. The assistants watch their +opportunity, from time to time, to take the wounded horses out of +the ring, plug up their gaping rents with tow, and sew them +roughly up for another sally. It is incredible to see what these +poor creatures will endure,--carrying their riders at a lumbering +gallop over the ring, when their thin sides seem empty of +entrails.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">TAUROMACHY +101</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Sometimes the bull +comes upon the dead body of a horse he has killed. The smell of +blood and the unmoving helplessness of the victim excite him to +the highest pitch. He gores and tramples the carcass, and tosses +it in the air with evident enjoyment, until diverted by some +living tormentor. You will occasionally see a picador nervous and +anxious about his personal safety. They are ignorant and +superstitious, and subject to presentiments; they often go into +the ring with the impression that their last hour has come. If +one takes counsel of his fears and avoids the shock of combat, +the hard-hearted crowd immediately discover it and rain +maledictions on his head. I saw a picador once enter the ring as +pale as death. He kept carefully out of the way of the bull for a +few minutes. The sharp-eyed Spaniards noticed it, and commenced +shouting, "Craven! He wants to live forever!" They threw +orange-skins at him, and at last, their rage vanquishing their +economy, they pelted him with oranges. His pallor gave way to a +flush of shame and anger. He attacked the bull so awkwardly that +the animal, killing his horse, threw him also with great +violence. His hat flew off, his bald head struck the hard soil. +He lay there as</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">102 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">one dead, and was +borne away lifeless. This mollified the indignant people, and +they desisted from their abuse.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">A cowardly bull is +much more dangerous than a courageous one, who lowers his head, +shuts his eyes, and goes blindly at everything he sees. The last +refuge of a bull in trouble is to leap the barrier, where he +produces a lively moment among the water-carriers and orange-boys +and stage-carpenters. I once saw a bull, who had done very little +execution in the arena, leap the barrier suddenly and toss an +unfortunate carpenter from the gangway sheer into the ring. He +picked himself up, laughed, saluted his friends, ran a little +distance and fell, and was carried out dying. Fatal accidents are +rarely mentioned in the newspapers, and it is considered not +quite good form to talk about them.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">When the bull has +killed enough horses, the first act of the play terminates. But +this is an exceedingly delicate matter for the authorities to +decide. The audience will not endure any economy in this respect. +If the bull is enterprising and "voluntary," he must have as many +horses as he can dispose of. One day in Madrid the bulls operated +with such activity that the supply of horses was +exhausted</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">TAUROMACHY +103</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">before the close of +the show, and the contractors rushed out in a panic and bought a +half dozen screws from the nearest cab-stand. If the president +orders out the horses before their time, he will hear remarks by +no means complimentary from the austere groundlings.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The second act is +the play of the banderilleros, the flag-men. They are beautifully +dressed and superbly built fellows, principally from Andalusia, +got up precisely like Figaro in the opera. Theirs is the most +delicate and graceful operation of the bull-fight. They take a +pair of barbed darts, with little banners fluttering at their +ends, and provoke the bull to rush at them. At the instant he +reaches them, when it seems nothing can save them, they step +aside and plant the banderillas in the neck of the bull. If the +bull has been cowardly and sluggish, and the spectators have +called for "fire," darts are used filled with detonating powder +at the base, which explode in the flesh of the bull. He dances +and skips like a kid or a colt in his agony, which is very +diverting to the Spanish mind. A prettier conceit is that of +confining small birds in paper cages, which come apart when the +banderilla is planted, and set the little fluttering captives +free.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">104 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Decking the bull +with these torturing ornaments is the last stage in the +apprenticeship of the chulo, before he rises to the dignity of +matador, or killer. The matadors themselves on special occasions +think it no derogation from their dignity to act as +banderilleros. But they usually accompany the act with some +exaggeration of difficulty that reaps for them a harvest of +applause. Frascuelo sits in a chair and plants the irritating +bannerets. Lagartijo lays his handkerchief on the ground and +stands upon it while he coifs the bull. A performance which never +fails to bring down the house is for the torero to await the rush +of the bull, and when the bellowing monster comes at him with +winking eyes and lowered head, to put his slippered foot between +the horns, and vault lightly over his back.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">These chulos +exhibit the most wonderful skill and address in evading the +assault of the bull. They can almost always trick him by waving +their cloaks a little out of the line of their flight. Sometimes, +however, the bull runs straight at the man, disregarding the +flag, and if the distance is great to the barrier the danger is +imminent; for swift as these men are, the bulls are swifter. Once +I saw the bull strike the torero at the instant he +vaulted</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-26.jpg" alt="cd1-26.jpg" class="c34"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">BANDERILLAS</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font2">TAUROMACHY</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">105</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">over the barrier. +He fell sprawling some distance the other side, safe, but +terribly bruised and stunned. As soon as he could collect himself +he sprang into the arena again, looking very seedy; and the crowd +roared, "Saved by miracle." I could but think of Basilio, who, +when the many cried, "A miracle," answered, "Industria! +Industria!" But these bullfighters are all very pious, and glad +to curry favor with the saints by attributing every success to +their intervention. The famous matador, Paco Montes, fervently +believed in an amulet he carried, and in the invocation of Our +Lord of the True Cross. He called upon this special name in every +tight place, and while other people talked of his luck he stoutly +affirmed it was his faith that saved him; often he said he saw +the veritable picture of the Passion coming down between him and +the bull, in answer to his prayers. At every bull-ring there is a +little chapel in the refreshment-room where these devout ruffians +can toss off a prayer or two in the intervals of work. A priest +is always at hand with a consecrated wafer, to visa the torero's +passport who has to start suddenly for Paradise. It is not +exactly regular, but the ring has built many churches and endowed +many chapels, and must not be too rigidly</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">106 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">regarded. In many +places the chief boxes are reserved for the clergy, and prayers +are hurried through an hour earlier on the day of +combat.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The final act is +the death of the bull. It must come at last. His exploits in the +early part of his career afford to the amateur some indication of +the manner in which he will meet his end. If he is a generous, +courageous brute, with more heart than brains, he will die +gallantly and be easily killed. But if he has shown reflection, +forethought, and that saving quality of the oppressed, suspicion, +the matador has a serious work before him. The bull is always +regarded from this objective standpoint. The more power of reason +the brute has, the worse opinion the Spaniard has of him. A +stupid creature who rushes blindly on the sword of the matador is +an animal after his own heart. But if there be one into whose +brute brain some glimmer of the awful truth has come,--and this +sometimes happens,--if he feels the solemn question at issue +between him and his enemy, if he eyes the man and not the flag, +if he refuses to be fooled by the waving lure, but keeps all his +strength and all his faculties for his own defence, the soul of +the Spaniard rises up in hate and loathing. He calls on +the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">TAUROMACHY +107</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">matador to kill him +any way. If he will not rush at the flag, the crowd shouts for +the demi-lune; and the noble brute is houghed from behind, and +your soul grows sick with shame of human nature, at the hellish +glee with which they watch him hobbling on his severed +legs.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">This seldom +happens. The final act is usually an admirable study of coolness +and skill against brute force. When the banderillas are all +planted, and the bugles sound for the third time, the matador, +the espada, the sword, steps forward with a modest consciousness +of distinguished merit, and makes a brief speech to the +corregidor, offering in honor of the good city of Madrid to kill +the bull. He turns on his heel, throws his hat by a dexterous +back-handed movement over the barrier, and advances, sword and +cape in hand, to where his noble enemy awaits him. The bull +appears to recognize a more serious foe than any he has +encountered. He stops short and eyes the newcomer curiously. It +is always an impressive picture: the tortured, maddened animal, +whose thin flanks are palpitating with his hot breath, his coat +one shining mass of blood from the darts and the spear-thrusts, +his massive neck still decked as in</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">108 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">mockery with the +fluttering flags, his fine head and muzzle seeming sharpened by +the hour's terrible experience, his formidable horns crimsoned +with onset; in front of this fiery bulk of force and courage, the +slight, sinewy frame of the killer, whose only reliance is on his +coolness and his intellect. I never saw a matador come carelessly +to his work. He is usually pale and alert. He studies the bull +for a moment with all his eyes. He waves the blood-red +engaño, or lure, before his face. If the bull rushes at it +with his eyes shut, the work is easy. He has only to select his +own stroke and make it. But if the bull is jealous and sly, it +requires the most careful management to kill him. The disposition +of the bull is developed by a few rapid passes of the red flag. +This must not be continued too long: the tension of the nerves of +the auditory will not bear trifling. I remember one day the crowd +was aroused to fury by a bugler from the adjoining barracks +playing retreat at the moment of decision. All at once the +matador seizes the favorable instant. He poises his sword as the +bull rushes upon him. The point enters just between the left +shoulder and the spine; the long blade glides in up to the hilt. +The bull reels and staggers and dies.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">TAUROMACHY +109</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Sometimes the +matador severs the vertebrae. The effect is like magic. He lays +the point of his sword between the bull's horns, as lightly as a +lady who touches her cavalier with her fan, and he falls dead as +a stone.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">If the blow is a +clean, well-delivered one, the enthusiasm of the people is +unbounded. Their approval comes up in a thunderous shout of "Well +done! Valiente! Viva!" A brown shower of cigars rains on the +sand. The victor gathers them up: they fill his hands, his +pockets, his hat. He gives them to his friends, and the aromatic +shower continues. Hundreds of hats are flung into the ring. He +picks them up and shies them back to their shouting owners. +Sometimes a dollar is mingled with the flying compliments; but +the enthusiasm of the Spaniard rarely carries him so far as that. +For ten minutes after a good estocada, the matador is the most +popular man in Spain.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">But the trumpets +sound again, the door of the Toril flies open, another bull comes +rushing out, and the present interest quenches the past. The play +begins again, with its sameness of purpose and its infinite +variety of incident.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">It is not quite +accurate to say, as is often said,</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">110 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">that the +bull-fighter runs no risk. El Tato, the first sword of Spain, +lost his leg in 1869, and his life was saved by the coolness and +courage of Lagartijo, who succeeded him in the championship, and +who was terribly wounded in the foot the next summer. Arjona +killed a bull in the same year, which tossed and ruptured him +after receiving his death-blow. Pepe Illo died in harness, on the +sand. Every year picadors, chulos, and such small deer are +killed, without gossip. I must copy the inscription on the sword +which Tato presented to Lagartijo, as a specimen of tauromachian +literature:--</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">"If, as +philosophers say, gratitude is the tribute of noble souls, +accept, dear Lagartijo, this present; preserve it as a sacred +relic, for it symbolizes the memory of my glories, and is at the +same time the mute witness of my misfortune. With it I killed my +last bull named <i>Peregrino,</i> bred by D. Vicente +Martínez, fourth of the fight of the 7th June, 1869, in +which act I received the wound which has caused the amputation of +my right leg. The will of man can do nothing against the designs +of Providence. Nothing but resignation is left to thy +affectionate friend, Antonio Sánchez [Tato]."</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">TAUROMACHY +111</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">It is in +consideration of the mingled skill and danger of the trade, that +such enormous fees are paid the principal performers. The leading +swordsmen receive about three hundred dollars for each +performance, and they are eagerly disputed by the direction of +all the arenas of Spain. In spite of these large wages, they are +rarely rich. They are as wasteful and improvident as gamblers. +Tato, when he lost his leg, lost his means of subsistence, and +his comrades organized one or two benefits to keep him from want. +Cuchares died in the Havana, and left no provision for his +family.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">There is a curious +naíveté in the play-bill of a bull-fight, the only +conscientious public document I have seen in Spain. You know how +we of Northern blood exaggerate the attractions of all sorts of +shows, trusting to the magnanimity of the audience. "He warn't +nothing like so little as that," confesses Mr. Magsman, "but +where 's your dwarf what is?" There are few who have the moral +courage to demand their money back because they counted but +thirty-nine thieves when the bills promised forty. But the +management of the Madrid bull-ring knows its public too well to +promise more</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">112 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">than it is sure of +performing. It announces six bulls, and positively no more. It +says there will be no use of bloodhounds. It promises two +picadors, with three others in reserve, and warns the public that +if all five become inutilized in the combat, no more will be +issued. With so fair a preliminary statement, what crowd, however +inflammable, could mob the management?</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Some industrious +and ascetic statistician has visited Spain and interested himself +in the bullring. Here are some of the results of his researches. +In 1864 the number of places in all the taurine establishments of +Spain was 509,283, of which 246,813 belonged to the cities, and +262,470 to the country.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">In the year 1864, +there were 427 bull-fights, of which 294 took place in the +cities, and 13 3 in the country towns. The receipts of +ninety-eight bullrings in 1864 reached the enormous sum of two +hundred and seventeen and a half millions of reals (nearly +$11,000,000). The 427 bull-fights which took place in Spain +during the year 1864 caused the death of 2989 of these fine +animals, and about 7473 horses,--something more than half the +number of the cavalry of Spain. These wasted victims</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-27.jpg" alt="cd1-27.jpg" class="c35"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">CLOAK-DANCE</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">TAUROMACHY +<b>113</b></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">could have ploughed +three hundred thousand hectares of land, which would have +produced a million and a half hectolitres of grain, worth eighty +millions of reals; all this without counting the cost of the +slaughtered cattle, worth say seven or eight millions, at a +moderate calculation.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Thus far the +Arithmetic Man; to whom responds the tauromachian aficionado: +That the bulk of this income goes to purposes of charity; that +were there no bull-fights, bulls of good race would cease to be +bred; that nobody ever saw a horse in a bull-ring that could +plough a furrow of a hundred yards without giving up the ghost; +that the nerve, dexterity, and knowledge of brute nature gained +in the arena is a good thing to have in the country; that, in +short, it is our way of amusing ourselves, and if you don't like +it you can go home and cultivate prize-fighters, or kill +two-year-old colts on the racecourse, or murder jockeys in +hurdle-races, or break your own necks in steeple-chases, or in +search of wilder excitement thicken your blood with beer or burn +your souls out with whiskey.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">And this is all we +get by our well-meant effort to convince Spaniards of the +brutality of bullfights. Must Chicago be virtuous before I +can</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15"><b>114</b> CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">object to Madrid +ale, and say that its cakes are unduly gingered?</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Yet even those who +most stoutly defend the bull-fight feel that its glory has +departed and that it has entered into the era of full decadence. +I was talking one evening with a Castilian gentleman, one of +those who cling with most persistence to the national traditions, +and he confessed that the noble art was wounded to death. "I do +not refer, as many do, to the change from the old times, when +gentlemen fought on their own horses in the ring. That was +nonsense, and could not survive the time of Cervantes. Life is +too short to learn bull-fighting. A grandee of Spain, if he knows +anything else, would make a sorry torero. The good times of the +art are more modern. I saw the short day of the glory of the ring +when I was a boy. There was a race of gladiators then, such as +the world will never see again,--mighty fighters before the king. +Pepe Illo and Costillares, Romero and Paco Montes,--the world +does not contain the stuff to make their counterparts. They were +serious, earnest men. They would have let their right arms wither +before they would have courted the applause of the mob by killing +a bull outside of the severe</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">TAUROMACHY +115</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">traditions. Compare +them with the men of to-day, with your Rafael Molina, who allows +himself to be gored, playing with a heifer; with your frivolous +boys like Frascuelo. I have seen the ring convulsed with laughter +as that buffoon strutted across the arena, flirting his muleta as +a manóla does her skirts, the bewildered bull not knowing +what to make of it. It was enough to make Illo turn in his bloody +grave.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">"Why, my young +friend, I remember when bulls were a dignified and serious +matter; when we kept account of their progress from their pasture +to the capital. We had accounts of their condition by couriers +and carrier-pigeons. On the day when they appeared it was a high +festival in the court. All the sombreros in Spain were there, the +ladies in national dress with white mantillas. The young queen +always in her palco (may God guard her). The fighters of that day +were high priests of art; there was something of veneration in +the regard that was paid them. Duchesses threw them bouquets with +billets-doux. Gossip and newspapers have destroyed the romance of +common life.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">"The only pleasure +I take in the Plaza de Toros now is at night. The custodians know +me and let</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">116</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font13 c13">me moon about in +the dark. When all that is ignoble and mean has faded away with +the daylight, it seems to me the ghosts of the old time come back +upon the sands. I can fancy the patter of light hoofs, the +glancing of spectral horns. I can imagine the agile tread of +Romero, the deadly thrust of Montes, the whisper of long-vanished +applause, and the clapping of ghostly hands. I am growing too old +for such skylarking, and I sometimes come away with a cold in my +head. But you will never see a bull-fight you can enjoy as I do +these visionary festivals, where memory is the corregidor, and +where the only spectators are the stars and I."</span><br> +</p> + +<img src="images/cd1-28.jpg" alt="cd1-28.jpg" class="c36"> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-29.jpg" alt="cd1-29.jpg" class="c19"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">RED-LETTER +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">NO people embrace +more readily than the Spaniards the opportunity of spending a day +without work. Their frequent holidays are a relic of the days +when the Church stood between the people and their taskmasters, +and fastened more firmly its hold upon the hearts of the ignorant +and overworked masses, by becoming at once the fountain of +salvation in the next world, and of rest in this. The government +rather encouraged this growth of play-days, as the Italian +Bourbons used to foster mendicancy, by way of keeping the people +as unthrifty as possible. Lazzaroni are so much more easily +managed than burghers!</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">118 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">It is only the holy +days that are successfully celebrated in Spain. The state has +tried of late years to consecrate to idle parade a few +revolutionary dates, but they have no vigorous national life. +They grow feebler and more colorless year by year, because they +have no depth of earth.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The most +considerable of these national festivals is the 2d of May, which +commemorates the slaughter of patriots in the streets of Madrid +by Murat. This is a political holiday which appeals more strongly +to the national character of the Spaniards than any other. The +mingled pride of race and ignorant hate of everything foreign +which constitutes that singular passion called Spanish +patriotism, or Españolismo, is fully called into play by +the recollections of the terrible scenes of their war of +independence, which drove out a foreign king, and brought back +into Spain a native despot infinitely meaner and more injurious. +It is an impressive study in national character and thought, this +self-satisfaction of even liberal Spaniards at the reflection +that, by a vast and supreme effort of the nation, after countless +sacrifices and with the aid of coalesced Europe, they exchanged +Joseph Bonaparte for Ferdinand VII. and the Inquisition. But the +victims of the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">RED-LETTER DAYS +119</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Dos de Mayo fell +fighting. Daoiz, Velarde, and Ruiz were bayoneted at their guns, +scorning surrender. The alcalde of Mostoles, a petty village of +Castile, called on Spain to rise against the tyrant. And Spain +obeyed the summons of this cross-roads justice. The contempt of +probabilities, the Quixotism of these successive demonstrations, +endear them to the Spanish heart.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Every 2d of May the +city of Madrid gives up the day to funeral honors to the dead of +1808. The city government, attended by its Maceros, in their +gorgeous robes of gold and scarlet, with silver maces and long +white plumes; the public institutions of all grades, with +invalids and veterans and charity children; a large detachment of +the army and navy,--form a vast procession at the Town Hall, and, +headed by the Supreme Government, march to slow music through the +Puerta del Sol and the spacious Alcalá street to the +granite obelisk in the Prado which marks the resting-place of the +patriot dead. I saw the regent of the kingdom, surrounded by his +cabinet, sauntering all a summer's afternoon under a blazing sun +over the dusty mile that separates the monument from the +Ayuntamiento. The Spaniards are</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">120 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">hopelessly +inefficient in these matters. The people always fill the line of +march, and a rivulet of procession meanders feebly through a +wilderness of mob. It is fortunate that the crowd is more +entertaining than the show.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The Church has a +very indifferent part in this ceremonial. It does nothing more +than celebrate a mass in the shade of the dark cypresses in the +Place of Loyalty, and then leaves the field clear to the secular +power. But this is the only purely civic ceremony I ever saw in +Spain. The Church is lord of the holidays for the rest of the +year.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">In the middle of +May comes the feast of the ploughboy patron of Madrid,--San +Isidro. He was a true Madrileño in tastes, and spent his +time lying in the summer shade or basking in the winter sunshine, +seeing visions, while angels came down from heaven and did his +farm chores for him. The angels are less amiable nowadays, but +every true child of Madrid reveres the example and envies the +success of the San Isidro method of doing business. In the +process of years this lazy lout has become a great saint, and his +bones have done more extensive and remarkable miracle-work than +any equal amount of phosphate in ex-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-30.jpg" alt="cd1-30.jpg" class="c37"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">THE SHRINE OF SAN +ISIDRO</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">RED-LETTER DAYS +121</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">istence. In +desperate cases of sufficient rank the doctors throw up the +sponge and send for Isidro's urn, and the drugging having ceased, +the noble patient frequently recovers, and much honor and profit +comes thereby to the shrine of the saint. There is something of +the toady in Isidro's composition. You never hear of his curing +any one of less than princely rank. I read in an old chronicle of +Madrid, that once when Queen Isabel the Catholic was hunting in +the hills that overlook the Manzanares, near what is now the +oldest and quaintest quarter of the capital, she killed a bear of +great size and ferocity; and doubtless thinking it might not be +considered lady-like to have done it unassisted, she gave San +Isidro the credit of the lucky blow and built him a nice new +chapel for it near the Church of San Andrés. If there are +any doubters, let them go and see the chapel, as I did. When the +allied armies of the Christian kings of Spain were seeking for a +passage through the hills to the Plains of Tolosa, a shepherd +appeared and led them straight to victory and endless fame. After +the battle, which broke the Moorish power forever in Central +Spain, instead of looking for the shepherd and paying him +handsomely for his</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">122 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">timely +scout-service, they found it more pious and economical to say it +was San Isidro in person who had kindly made himself flesh for +this occasion. By the great altar in the Cathedral of Toledo +stand side by side the statues of Alonso VIIL, the Christian +commander, and San Isidro brazenly swelling in the shepherd garb +of that unknown guide who led Alonso and his chivalry through the +tangled defiles of the Sierra Morena.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">His fete is the +Derby Day of Madrid. The whole town goes out to his Hermitage on +the further banks of the Manzanares, and spends a day or two of +the soft spring weather in noisy frolic. The little church stands +on a bare brown hill, and all about it is an improvised village +consisting half of restaurants and the other half of toyshops. +The principal traffic is in a pretty sort of glass whistle which +forms the stem of an artificial rose, worn in the button-hole in +the intervals of tooting, and little earthen pig-bells, whose +ringing scares away the lightning. There is but one duty of the +day to flavor all its pleasures. The faithful must go into the +oratory, pay a penny, and kiss a glass-covered relic of the saint +which the attendant ecclesiastic holds in his hand. +The</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">RED-LETTER DAYS +123</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">bells are rung +violently until the church is full; then the doors are shut and +the kissing begins. They are very expeditious about it. The +worshippers drop on their knees by platoons before the railing. +The long-robed relic-keeper puts the precious trinket rapidly to +their lips; an acolyte follows with a saucer for the cash. The +glass grows humid with many breaths. The priest wipes it with a +dirty napkin from time to time. The multitude advances, kisses, +pays, and retires, till all have their blessing; then the doors +are opened and they all pass out,--the bells ringing furiously +for another detachment. The pleasures of the day are like those +of all fairs and public merrymaking. Working-people come to be +idle, and idle people come to have something to do. There is much +eating and little drinking. The milk-stalls are busier than the +wine-shops. The people are gay and jolly, but very decent and +clean and orderly. To the east of the Hermitage, over and beyond +the green cool valley, the city rises on its rocky hills, its +spires shining in the cloudless blue. Below on the emerald +meadows there are the tents and wagons of those who have come +from a distance to the Romería. The sound of guitars +and</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">124 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">the drone of +peasant songs come up the hill, and groups of men are leaping in +the wild barbaric dances of Iberia. The scene is of another day +and time. The Celt is here, lord of the land. You can see these +same faces at Donnybrook Fair. These large-mouthed, short-nosed, +rosy-cheeked peasant-girls are called Dolores and Catalina, but +they might be called Bridget and Kathleen. These strapping +fellows, with long simian upper lips, with brown leggings and +patched, mud-colored overcoats, who are leaping and swinging +their cudgels in that Pyrrhic round are as good Tipperary boys as +ever mobbed an agent or pounded, twenty to one, a landlord to +death. The same unquestioning, fervent faith, the same +superficial good-nature, the same facility to be amused, and at +bottom the same cowardly and cruel blood-thirst. What is this +mysterious law of race which is stronger than time, or varying +climates, or changing institutions? Which is cause, and which is +effect, race or religion?</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The great Church +holiday of the year is Corpus Christi. On this day the Host is +carried in solemn procession through the principal streets, +attended by the high officers of state, several battalions +of</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">RED-LETTER DAYS +125</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">each arm of the +service in fresh bright uniforms, and a vast array of +ecclesiastics in the most gorgeous stoles and chasubles their +vestiary contains. The windows along the line of march are gayly +decked with flags and tapestry. Work is absolutely suspended, and +the entire population dons its holiday garb. The Puerta del +Sol--at this season blazing with relentless light--is crowded +with patient Madrileños in their best clothes, the +brown-cheeked maidens with flowing silks as in a ball-room, and +with no protection against the ardent sky but the fluttering fan +they hold in their ungloved hands. As everything is behind time +in this easy-going land, there are two or three hours of broiling +gossip on the glowing pavement before the Sacred Presence is +announced by the ringing of silver bells. As the superb structure +of filigree gold goes by, a movement of reverent worship vibrates +through the crowd. Forgetful of silks and broadcloth and gossip, +they fall on their knees in one party-colored mass, and, bowing +their heads and beating their breasts, they mutter their +mechanical prayers. There are thinking men who say these shows +are necessary; that the Latin mind must see with bodily eyes +the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c38">126 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">thing it worships, +or the worship will fade away from its heart. If there were no +cathedrals and masses, they say, there would be no religion; if +there were no king, there would be no law. But we should not +accept too hurriedly this ethnological theory of necessity, which +would reject all principles of progress and positive good, and +condemn half the human race to perpetual childhood. There was a +time when we Anglo-Saxons built cathedrals and worshipped the +king. Look at Salisbury and Lincoln and Ely; read the history of +the growth of parliaments. There is nothing more beautifully +sensuous than the religious spirit that presided over those +master works of English Gothic; there is nothing in life more +abject than the relics of the English love and fear of princes. +But the steady growth of centuries has left nothing but the +outworn shell of the old religion and the old loyalty. The +churches and the castles still exist. The name of the king still +is extant in the constitution. They remain as objects of taste +and tradition, hallowed by a thousand memories of earlier days, +but, thanks be to God who has given us the victory, the English +race is now incapable of making a new cathedral or a new +king.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">RED-LETTER DAYS +127</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Let us not in our +safe egotism deny to others the possibility of a like +improvement.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">This summery month +of June is rich in saints. The great apostles, John, Peter, and +Paul, have their anniversaries on its closing days, and the +shortest nights of the year are given up to the riotous eating of +fritters in their honor. I am afraid that the progress of luxury +and love of ease has wrought a change in the observance of these +festivals. The feast of midsummer night is called the Verbena of +St. John, which indicates that it was formerly a morning +solemnity, as the vervain could not be hunted by the youths and +maidens of Spain with any success or decorum at midnight. But of +late years it may be that this useful and fragrant herb has +disappeared from the tawny hills of Castile. It is sure that +midsummer has grown too warm for any field work. So that the +Madrileños may be pardoned for spending the day napping, +and swarming into the breezy Prado in the light of moon and stars +and gas. The Prado is ordinarily the promenade of the better +classes, but every Spanish family has its John, Paul, and Peter, +and the crowded barrios of Toledo and the Peñue-las pour +out their ragged hordes to the popular</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">128 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">festival. The scene +has a strange gypsy wildness. From the round point of Atocha to +where Cybele, throned among spouting waters, drives southward her +spanking team of marble lions, the park is filled with the merry +roysterers. At short intervals are the busy groups of fritter +merchants; over the crackling fire a great caldron of boiling +oil; beside it a mighty bowl of dough. The buñolero, with +the swift precision of machinery, dips his hand into the bowl and +makes a delicate ring of the tough dough, which he throws into +the bubbling caldron. It remains but a few seconds, and his grimy +acolyte picks it out with a long wire and throws it on the tray +for sale. They are eaten warm, the droning cry continually +sounding, "Buñuelos! Calientitos!" There must be millions +of these oily dainties consumed on every night of the Verbena. +For the more genteel revellers, the Don Juans, Pedros, and Pablos +of the better sort, there are improvised restaurants built of +pine planks after sunset and gone before sunrise. But the greater +number are bought and eaten by the loitering crowd from the tray +of the fritterman. It is like a vast gitano-camp. The hurrying +crowd which is going nowhere, the blazing fires, the +cries</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-31.jpg" alt="cd1-31.jpg" class="c39"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5">PAULA, LA +GRANJA</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">RED-LETTER DAYS +129</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">of the venders, the +songs of the majos under the great trees of the Paseo, the +purposeless hurly-burly, and above, the steam of the boiling oil +and the dust raised by the myriad feet, form together a striking +and vivid picture. The city is more than usually quiet. The stir +of life is localized in the Prado. The only busy men in town are +those who stand by the seething oil-pots and manufacture the +brittle forage of the browsing herds. It is a jealous business, +and requires the undivided attention of its professors. The <i>ne +sutor ultra crepidam</i> of Spanish proverb is "Buñolero +haz tus buñuelos,"--Fritterman, mind thy fritters. With +the long days and cooler airs of the autumn begin the different +fairs. These are relics of the times of tyranny and exclusive +privilege, when for a few days each year, by the intervention of +the Church, or as a reward for civic service, full liberty of +barter and sale was allowed to all citizens. This custom, more or +less modified, may be found in most cities of Europe. The +boulevards of Paris swarm with little booths at Christmas-time, +which begin and end their lawless commercial life within the +week. In Vienna, in Leipsic, and other cities, the same +waste-weir of irregular trade is periodic-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">130 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">ally opened. These +fairs begin in Madrid with the autumnal equinox, and continue for +some weeks in October. They disappear from the Alcalá to +break out with renewed virulence in the avenue of Atocha, and +girdle the city at last with a belt of booths. While they last +they give great animation and spirit to the street life of the +town. You can scarcely make your way among the heaps of gaudy +shawls and handkerchiefs, cheap laces and illegitimate jewels, +that cumber the pavement. When the Jews were driven out of Spain, +they left behind the true genius of bargaining.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">A nut-brown maid is +attracted by a brilliant red and yellow scarf. She asks the +sleepy merchant nodding before his wares, "What is this rag +worth? "</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">He answers with +profound indifference, "Ten reals."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">"Hombre! Are you +dreaming or crazy?" She drops the coveted neck-gear, and moves +on, apparently horror-stricken.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The chapman calls +her back peremptorily. "Don't be rash! The scarf is worth twenty +reals, but for the sake of Santisima Maria I offered it to you +for half price. Very well! You are not suited. What will you +give?"</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">RED-LETTER DAYS +131</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">"Caramba! Am I +buyer and seller as well? The thing is worth three reals; more is +a robbery."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">"Jesus! Maria! +José! and all the family! Go thou with God! We cannot +trade. Sooner than sell for less than eight reals I will raise +the cover of my brains! Go thou! It is eight of the morning, and +still thou dreamest."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">She lays down the +scarf reluctantly, saying, "Five?"</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">But the outraged +mercer snorts scornfully, "Eight is my last word! Go +to!"</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">She moves away, +thinking how well that scarf would look in the Apollo Gardens, +and casts over her shoulder a Parthian glance and bid, +"Six!"</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">"Take it! It is +madness, but I cannot waste my time in bargaining."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Both congratulate +themselves on the operation. He would have taken five, and she +would have given seven. How trade would suffer if we had windows +in our breasts!</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The first days of +November are consecrated to all the saints, and to the souls of +all the blessed dead. They are observed in Spain with great +solemnity; but as the cemeteries are generally of the +dreariest</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7"><b>132</b></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">character, bare, +bleak, and most forbidding under the ashy sky of the late autumn, +the days are deprived of that exquisite sentiment that pervades +them in countries where the graves of the dead are beautiful. +There is nothing more touching than these offerings of memory you +see every year in Mont Parnasse and Pere-la-Chaise. Apart from +all beliefs, there is a mysterious influence for good exerted +upon the living by the memory of the beloved dead. On all hearts +not utterly corrupt, the thoughts that come by the graves of the +departed fall like dew from heaven, and quicken into life purer +and higher resolves.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">In Spain, where +there is nothing but desolation in graveyards, the churches are +crowded instead, and the bereaved survivors commend to God their +departed friends and their own stricken hearts in the dim and +perfumed aisles of temples made with hands. A taint of gloom thus +rests upon the recollection and the prayer, far different from +the consolation that comes with the free air and the sunshine, +and the infinite blue vault, where Nature conspires with +revelation to comfort and cherish and console.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Christmas +apparently comes in Spain on no other</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-32.jpg" alt="cd1-32.jpg" class="c40"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">THE PLAZA MAJOR, +MADRID</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">RED-LETTER DAYS +133</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">mission than that +referred to in the old English couplet, "bringing good cheer." +The Spaniards are the most frugal of people, but during the days +that precede their Noche Buena, their Good Night, they seem to be +given up as completely to cares of the commissariat as the most +eupeptic of Germans. Swarms of turkeys are driven in from the +surrounding country, and taken about the streets by their rustic +herdsmen, making the roads gay with their scarlet wattles, and +waking rural memories by their vociferous gobbling. The great +market-place of the season is the Plaza Mayor. The ever-fruitful +provinces of the South are laid under contribution, and the +result is a wasteful show of tropical luxuriance that seems most +incongruous under the wintry sky. There are mountains of oranges +and dates, brown hillocks of nuts of every kind, store of every +product of this versatile soil. The air is filled with nutty and +fruity fragrance. Under the ancient arcades are the stalls of the +butchers, rich with the mutton of Castile, the hams of +Estremadura, and the hero-nourishing bull-beef of Andalusian +pastures.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">At night the town +is given up to harmless racket. Nowhere has the tradition of the +Latin Saturnalia</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">134 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">been fitted with +less change into the Christian calendar. Men, women, and children +of the proletariat--the unemancipated slaves of necessity--go out +this night to cheat their misery with noisy frolic. The owner of +a tambourine is the equal of a peer; the proprietor of a guitar +is the captain of his hundred. They troop through the dim city +with discordant revel and song. They have little idea of music. +Every one sings and sings ill. Every one dances, without grace or +measure. Their music is a modulated howl of the East. Their +dancing is the savage leaping of barbarians. There is no lack of +couplets, religious, political, or amatory. I heard one ragged +woman with a brown baby at her breast go shrieking through the +Street of the Magdalen,--</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font9 c41">"This is the eve of +Christmas, No sleep from now till morn, The Virgin is in travail, +At twelve will the child be born!"</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Behind her stumped +a crippled beggar, who croaked in a voice rough with frost and +aguardiente his deep disillusion and distrust of the +great:--</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font9 c41">"This is the eve of +Christmas, But what is that to me? We are ruled by thieves and +robbers, As it was and will always be."</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">RED-LETTER DAYS +135</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c20">Next comes a +shouting band of the youth of Spain, strapping boys with bushy +locks, crisp and black almost to blueness, and gay young girls +with flexible forms and dark Arab eyes that shine with a +phosphorescent light in the shadows. They troop on with clacking +castinets. The challenge of the mozos rings out on the frosty +air,--</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font9 c11">"This is the eve of +Christmas, Let us drink and love our fill!"</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">And the saucy antiphon +of girlish voices responds,--</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font9 c42">"A man may be +bearded and gray, But a woman can fool him still!"</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The Christmas and +New-Year's holidays continue for a fortnight, ending with the +Epiphany. On the eve of the Day of the Kings a curious farce is +performed by bands of the lowest orders of the people, which +demonstrates the apparently endless naivete of their class. In +every coterie of water-carriers, or mozos de cordel, there will +be one found innocent enough to believe that the Magi are coming +to Madrid that night, and that a proper respect to their rank +requires that they must be met at the city gate. To perceive the +coming of their feet, beautiful upon the mountains, a ladder is +necessary, and the poor victim of the comedy is</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">136 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c20">loaded with this +indispensable "property." He is dragged by his gay companions, +who never tire of the exquisite wit of their jest, from one gate +to another, until suspicion supplants faith in the mind of the +neophyte, and the farce is over.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c20">In the burgher +society of Castile this night is devoted to a very different +ceremony. Each little social circle comes together in a house +agreed upon. They take mottoes of gilded paper and write on each +the name of some one of the company. The names of the ladies are +thrown into one urn, and those of the cavaliers into another, and +they are drawn out by pairs. These couples are thus condemned by +fortune to intimacy during the year. The gentleman is always to +be at the orders of the dame and to serve her faithfully in every +knightly fashion. He has all the duties and none of the +privileges of a lover, unless it be the joy of those "who stand +and wait." The relation is very like that which so astonished M. +de Gramont in his visit to Piedmont, where the cavalier of +service never left his mistress in public and never approached +her in private.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c20">The true Carnival +survives in its naive purity only in Spain. It has faded in Rome +into a romp-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-33.jpg" alt="cd1-33.jpg" class="c43"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">IN THE PARK, LA +GRANJA</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">RED-LETTER DAYS +137</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">ing day of clown's +play. In Paris it is little more than a busier season for dreary +and professional vice. Elsewhere all over the world the Carnival +gayeties are confined to the salon. But in Madrid the whole city, +from grandee to cordwainer, goes with childlike earnestness into +the enjoyment of the hour. The Corso begins in the Prado on the +last Sunday before Lent, and lasts four days. From noon to night +the great drive is filled with a double line of carriages two +miles long, and between them are the landaus of the favored +hundreds who have the privilege of driving up and down free from +the law of the road. This right is acquired by the payment of ten +dollars a day to city charities, and produces some fifteen +thousand dollars every Carnival. In these carriages all the +society of Madrid may be seen; and on foot, darting in and out +among the hoofs of the horses, are the young men of Castile in +every conceivable variety of absurd and fantastic disguise. There +are of course pirates and Indians and Turks, monks, prophets, and +kings, but the favorite costumes seem to be the Devil and the +Englishman. Sometimes the Yankee is attempted, with indifferent +success. He wears a ribbon-wreathed Italian bandit's hat, an +embroidered</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">138 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">jacket, slashed +buckskin trousers, and a wide crimson belt,--a dress you would at +once recognize as universal in Boston.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Most of the maskers +know by name at least the occupants of the carriages. There is +always room for a mask in a coach. They leap in, swarming over +the back or the sides, and in their shrill monotonous scream they +make the most startling revelations of the inmost secrets of your +soul. There is always something impressive in the talk of an +unknown voice, but especially is this so in Madrid, where every +one scorns his own business, and devotes himself rigorously to +his neighbor's. These shrieking young monks and devilkins often +surprise a half-formed thought in the heart of a fair Castilian +and drag it out into day and derision. No one has the right to be +offended. Duchesses are called Tu! Isabel! by chin-dimpled +school-boys, and the proudest beauties in Spain accept bonbons +from plebeian hands. It is true, most of the maskers are of the +better class. Some of the costumes are very rich and expensive, +of satin and velvet heavy with gold. I have seen a distinguished +diplomatist in the guise of a gigantic canary-bird, hopping +briskly about in the mud with bedraggled</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">RED-LETTER DAYS +139</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">tail-feathers, +shrieking well-bred sarcasms with his yellow beak.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The charm of the +Madrid Carnival is this, that it is respected and believed in. +The best and fairest pass the day in the Corso, and gallant young +gentlemen think it worth while to dress elaborately for a few +hours of harmless and spirituelle intrigue. A society that enjoys +a holiday so thoroughly has something in it better than the blase +cynicism of more civilized capitals. These young fellows talk +like the lovers of the old romances. I have never heard prettier +periods of devotion than from some gentle savage, stretched out +on the front seat of a landau under the peering eyes of his lady, +safe in his disguise, if not self-betrayed, pouring out his young +soul in passionate praise and prayer; around them the laughter +and the cries, the cracking of whips, the roll of wheels, the +presence of countless thousands, and yet these two young hearts +alone under the pale winter sky. The rest of the Continent has +outgrown the true Carnival. It is pleasant to see this gay relic +of simpler times, when youth was young. No one here is too +"swell" for it. You may find a duke in the disguise of a +chimney-sweep, or a butcher-boy in the dress of</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">140 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">a Crusader. There +are none so great that their dignity would suffer by a day's +reckless foolery, and there are none so poor that they cannot +take the price of a dinner to buy a mask and cheat their misery +by mingling for a time with their betters in the wild license of +the Carnival.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The winter's gayety +dies hard. Ash Wednesday is a day of loud merriment and is +devoted to a popular ceremony called the Burial of the Sardine. A +vast throng of workingmen carry with great pomp a link of sausage +to the bank of the Manzanares and inter it there with great +solemnity. On the following Saturday, after three days of death, +the Carnival has a resurrection, and the maddest, wildest ball of +the year takes place at the opera. Then the sackcloth and ashes +of Lent come down in good earnest and the town mourns over its +scarlet sins. It used to be very fashionable for the genteel +Christians to repair during this season of mortification to the +Church of San Gines, and scourge themselves lustily in its +subterranean chambers. A still more striking demonstration was +for gentlemen in love to lash themselves on the sidewalks where +passed the ladies of their thoughts. If the blood from +the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">RED-LETTER DAYS +141</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">scourges sprinkled +them as they sailed by, it was thought an attention no female +heart could withstand. But these wholesome customs have decayed +of late unbelieving years.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The Lenten piety +increases with the lengthening days. It reaches its climax on +Holy Thursday. On this day all Spain goes to church: it is one of +the obligatory days. The more you go, the better for you; so the +good people spend the whole day from dawn to dusk roaming from +one church to another, and investing an Ave and a Pater-Noster in +each. This fills every street of the city with the pious crowd. +No carriages are permitted. A silence like that of Venice falls +on the rattling capital. With three hundred thousand people in +the street, the town seems still. In 1870, a free-thinking cabman +dared to drive up the Calle Alcalá. He was dragged from +his box and beaten half to death by the chastened mourners, who +yelled as they kicked and cuffed him, "Que bruto! He will wake +our Jesus."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">On Good Friday the +gloom deepens. No colors are worn that day by the orthodox. The +señoras appear on the street in funeral garb. I saw a +group of fast youths come out of the jockey club,</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">142 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">black from hat to +boots, with jet studs and sleeve-buttons. The gayest and +prettiest ladies sit within the church doors and beg in the holy +name of charity, and earn large sums for the poor. There are +hourly services in the churches, passionate sermons from all the +pulpits. The streets are free from the painted haunters of the +pavement. The whole people taste the luxury of a sentimental +sorrow.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Yet in these heavy +days it is not the Redeemer whose sufferings and death most +nearly touch the hearts of the faithful. It is Santísima +Maria who is worshipped most. It is the Dolorous Mother who moves +them to tears of tenderness. The presiding deity of these final +days of meditation is Our Lady of Solitude.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">But at last the +days of mourning are accomplished. The expiation for sin is +finished. The grave is vanquished, death is swallowed up in +victory. Man can turn from the grief that is natural to the joy +that is eternal. From every steeple the bells fling out their +happy clangor in glad tidings of great joy. The streets are +flooded once more with eager multitudes, gay as in wedding +garments. Christ has arisen! The heathen myth of the +awak-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">RED-LETTER +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">143</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c20">ening of nature +blends the old tradition with the new gospel. The vernal breezes +sweep the skies clean and blue. Birds are pairing in the budding +trees. The streams leap down from the melting snow of the hills. +The brown turf takes a tint of verdure. Through the vast frame of +things runs a quick shudder of teeming power. In the heart of man +love and will mingle into hope. Hail to the new life and the +ever-new religion! Hail to the resurrection morning!</span><br> +</p> + +<img src="images/cd1-34.jpg" alt="cd1-34.jpg" class="c44"> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-35.jpg" alt="cd1-35.jpg" class="c45"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">AS a general thing +it is well to distrust a Spaniard's superlatives. He will tell +you that his people are the most amiable in the world, but you +will do well to carry your revolver into the interior. He will +say there are no wines worth drinking but the Spanish, but you +will scarcely forswear Clicquot and Yquem on the mere faith of +his assertion. A distinguished general once gravely assured me +that there was no literature in the world at all to be compared +with the productions of the Castilian mind. All others, he said, +were but pale imitations of Spanish master-work.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS 145</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Now, though you may +be shocked at learning such unfavorable facts of 'Shakespeare and +Goethe and Hugo, you will hardly condemn them to an Auto da fe, +on the testimony even of a grandee of Spain.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">But when a Spaniard +assures you that the picture-gallery of Madrid is the finest in +the world, you may believe him without reserve. He probably does +not know what he is talking about. He may never have crossed the +Pyrenees. He has no dream of the glories of Dresden, or Florence, +or the Louvre. It is even possible that he has not seen the +matchless collection he is boasting of. He crowns it with a +sweeping superlative simply because it is Spanish. But the +statement is nevertheless true.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The reason of this +is found in that gigantic and overshadowing fact which seems to +be an explanation of everything in Spain,--the power and the +tyranny of the House of Austria. The period of the vast increase +of Spanish dominion coincided with that of the meridian glory of +Italian art. The conquest of Granada was finished as the divine +child Raphael began to meddle with his father's brushes and +pallets, and before his short life ended Charles, Burgess of +Ghent, was emperor and king.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">146 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The dominions he +governed and transmitted to his son embraced Spain, the +Netherlands, Franche-Comté, the Milanese, Naples, and +Sicily; that is to say, those regions where art in that age and +the next attained its supreme development. He was also lord of +the New World, whose inexhaustible mines poured into the lap of +Europe a constant stream of gold. Hence came the riches and the +leisure necessary to art.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Charles V., as well +as his great contemporary and rival, Francis I., was a munificent +protector of art. He brought from Italy and Antwerp some of the +most perfect products of their immortal masters. He was the +friend and patron of Titian, and when, weary of the world and its +vanities, he retired to the lonely monastery of Yuste to spend in +devout contemplation the evening of his days, the most precious +solace of his solitude was that noble canvas of the great +Venetian, where Charles and Philip are borne, in penitential +guise and garb, on luminous clouds into the visible glory of the +Most High.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">These two great +kings made a good use of their unbounded opportunities. Spain +became illuminated with the glowing canvases of the +incom-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS 147</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">parable Italians. +The opening up of the New World beyond seas, the meteoric career +of European and African conquest in which the emperor had won so +much land and glory, had given an awakening shock to the +intelligent youth of Spain, and sent them forth in every avenue +of enterprise. This jealously patriotic race, which had remained +locked up by the mountains and the seas for centuries, started +suddenly out, seeking adventures over the earth. The mind of +Spain seemed suddenly to have brightened and developed like that +of her great king, who, in his first tourney at Val-ladolid, +wrote with proud sluggishness <i>Nondum--</i>not yet--on his +maiden shield, and a few years later in his young maturity +adopted the legend of arrogant hope and promise,--<i>Plus +Ultra.</i> There were seen two emigrations of the young men of +Spain, eastward and westward. The latter went for gold and +material conquest into the American wilds; and the former, led by +the sacred love of art, to that land of beauty and wonder, then, +now, and always the spiritual shrine of all +peoples,--Italy.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">A brilliant young +army went out from Spain on this new crusade of the beautiful. +From the plains</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">148 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">of Castile and the +hills of Navarre went, among others, Berruguete, Becerra, and the +marvellous deaf-mute Navarrete. The luxurious city of +Valentía sent Juan de Juanes and Ribalta. Luis de Vargas +went out from Seville, and from Cordova the scholar, artist, and +thinker, Paul of Céspedes. The schools of Rome and Venice +and Florence were thronged with eager pilgrims, speaking an alien +Latin and filled with a childlike wonder and +appreciation.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">In that stirring +age the emigration was not all in one direction. Many +distinguished foreigners came down to Spain, to profit by the new +love of art in the Peninsula. It was Philip of Burgundy who +carved, with Berruguete, those miracles of skill and patience we +admire to-day in the choir of Toledo. Peter of Champagne painted +at Seville the grand altar-piece that so comforted the eyes and +the soul of Murillo. The wild Greek bedouin, George +Theotocopouli, built the Mozarabic chapel and filled the walls of +convents with his weird ghost-faces. Moor, or Moro, came from the +Low Countries, and the Carducci brothers from Italy, to seek +their fortunes in Madrid. Torrigiani, after breaking Michael +Angelo's nose in Florence, fled</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS 149</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">to Granada, and +died in a prison of the Inquisition for smashing the face of a +Virgin which a grandee of Spain wanted to steal from +him.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">These immigrations, +and the refluent tide of Spanish students from Italy, founded the +various schools of Valentia, Toledo, Seville, and Madrid. Madrid +soon absorbed the school of Toledo, and the attraction of Seville +was too powerful for Valentia. The Andalusian school counts among +its early illustrations Vargas, Roelas, the Castillos, Herrera, +Pacheco, and Moya, and among its later glories Velazquez, Alonzo +Cano, Zurbaran, and Murillo, last and greatest of the mighty +line. The school of Madrid begins with Berruguete and Na-varrete, +the Italians Caxes, Rizi, and others, who are followed by +Sánchez Coello, Pantoja, Collantes. Then comes the great +invader Velazquez, followed by his retainers Pareja and +Carreño, and absorbs the whole life of the school. Claudio +Coello makes a good fight against the rapid decadence. Luca +Giordano comes rattling in from Naples with his whitewash-brush, +painting a mile a minute, and classic art is ended in Spain with +the brief and conscientious work of Raphael Mengs.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">There is therefore +little distinction of schools</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">15O CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">in Spain. Murillo, +the glory of Seville, studied in Madrid, and the mighty +Andalusian, Velazquez, performed his enormous life's work in the +capital of Castile.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">It now needs but +one word to show how the Museum of Madrid became so rich in +masterpieces. During the long and brilliant reigns of Charles V. +and Philip II., when art had arrived at its apogee in Italy, and +was just beginning its splendid career in Spain, these powerful +monarchs had the lion's share of all the best work that was done +in the world. There was no artist so great but he was honored by +the commands of these lords of the two worlds. They thus formed +in their various palaces, pleasure-houses, and cloisters a +priceless collection of pictures produced in the dawn of the +Spanish and the triumphant hey-day of Italian genius. Their +frivolous successors lost provinces and kingdoms, honor and +prestige, but they never lost their royal prerogative nor their +taste for the arts. They consoled themselves for the slings and +arrows of outrageous fortune by the delights of sensual life, and +imagined they preserved some distant likeness to their great +forerunners by encouraging and protecting Velazquez and Lope +de</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS 151</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Vega and other +intellectual giants of that decaying age. So while, as the result +of a vicious system of kingly and spiritual thraldom, the +intellect of Spain was forced away from its legitimate channels +of thought and action, under the shadow of the royal prerogative, +which survived the genuine power of the older kings, art +flourished and bloomed, unsuspected and unpersecuted by the +coward jealousy of courtier and monk.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The palace and the +convent divided the product of those marvellous days. Amid all +the poverty of the failing state, it was still the king and +clergy who were best able to appropriate the works of genius. +This may have contributed to the decay of art. The immortal +canvases passed into oblivion in the salons of palaces and the +cells of monasteries. Had they been scattered over the land and +seen by the people, they might have kept alive the spark that +kindled their creators. But exclusiveness is inevitably followed +by barrenness. When the great race of Spanish artists ended, +these matchless works were kept in the safe obscurity of palaces +and religious establishments. History was working in the +interests of this Museum. The pictures were held by the +clenched</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">152 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">dead hand of the +Church and the throne. They could not be sold or distributed. +They made the dark places luminous, patiently biding their +time.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">It was long enough +coming, and it was a despicable hand that brought them into the +light. Ferdinand VII. thought his palace would look fresher if +the walls were covered with French paper, and so packed all the +pictures off to the empty building on the Prado, which his +grandfather had built for a museum. As soon as the glorious +collection was exposed to the gaze of the world, its +incontestable merit was at once recognized. Especially were the +works of Velazquez, hitherto almost an unknown name in Europe, +admired and appreciated. Ferdinand, finding he had done a clever +thing unawares, began to put on airs and poser for a patron of +art. The gallery was still further immensely enriched on the +exclaustration of the monasteries, by the hidden treasures of +the Escorial, and other spoils of mortmain. And now, as a +collection of masterpieces, it has no equal in the +world.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">A few figures will +prove this. It contains more than two thousand pictures already +catalogued,--all of them worth a place on the walls. +Among</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-36.jpg" alt="cd1-36.jpg" class="c46"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">AN HOUR AMONG THE +PAINTERS, VELAZQUEZ ROOM</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS 153</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">these there are ten +by Raphael, forty-three by Titian, thirty-four by Tintoret, +twenty-five by Paul Veronese. Rubens has the enormous contingent +of sixty-four. Of Teniers, whose works are sold for fabulous sums +for the square inch, this extraordinary museum possesses no less +than sixty finished pictures,--the Louvre considers itself rich +with fourteen. So much for a few of the foreigners. Among the +Spaniards the three greatest names could alone fill a gallery. +There are sixty-five Velazquez, forty-six Murillos, and +fifty-eight Riberas. Compare these figures with those of any +other gallery in existence, and you will at once recognize the +hopeless superiority of this collection. It is not only the +greatest collection in the world, but the greatest that can ever +be made until this is broken up.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">But with all this +mass of wealth it is not a complete, nor, properly speaking, a +representative museum. You cannot trace upon its walls the slow, +groping progress of art towards perfection. It contains few of +what the book-lovers call <i>incunabula.</i> Spanish art sprang +out full-armed from the mature brain of Rome. Juan de Juanes +came back from Italy a great artist. The schools of</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">154 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Spain were budded +on a full-bearing tree. Charles and Philip bought masterpieces, +and cared Jittle for the crude efforts of the awkward pencils of +the necessary men who came before Raphael. There is not a +Perugino in Madrid. There is nothing Byzantine, no trace of +Renaissance; nothing of the patient work of the early +Flemings,--the art of Flanders comes blazing in with the full +splendor of Rubens and Van Dyck. And even among the masters, the +representation is most unequal. Among the wilderness of Titians +and Tintorets you find but two Domenichinos and two Correggios. +Even in Spanish art the gallery is far from complete. There is +almost nothing of such genuine painters as Zurbaran and +Herrera.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">But recognizing all +this, there is, in this glorious temple, enough to fill the least +enthusiastic lover of art with delight and adoration for weeks +and months together. If one knew he was to be blind in a year, +like the young musician in Auerbach's exquisite romance, I know +of no place in the world where he could garner up so precious a +store of memories for the days of darkness, memories that would +haunt the soul with so divine a light of consolation, as in that +graceful Palace of the Prado.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS 155</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">It would be a +hopeless task to attempt to review with any detail the gems of +this collection. My memory is filled with the countless canvases +that adorn the ten great halls. If I refer to my notebook I am +equally discouraged by the number I have marked for special +notice. The masterpieces are simply innumerable. I will say a +word of each room, and so give up the unequal contest.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">As you enter the +Museum from the north, you are in a wide sturdy-columned +vestibule, hung with splashy pictures of Luca Giordano. To your +right is the room devoted to the Spanish school; to the left, the +Italian. In front is the grand gallery where the greatest works +of both schools are collected. In the Spanish saloon there is an +indefinable air of severity and gloom. It is less perfectly +lighted than some others, and there is something forbidding in +the general tone of the room. There are prim portraits of queens +and princes, monks in contemplation, and holy people in antres +vast and deserts idle. Most visitors come in from a sense of +duty, look hurriedly about, and go out with a conscience at ease; +in fact, there is a dim suggestion of the fagot and the rack +about many of the Spanish masters. At one end of this +gallery</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">156 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">the Prometheus of +Ribera agonizes chained to his rock. His gigantic limbs are flung +about in the fury of immortal pain. A vulture, almost lost in the +blackness of the shadows, is tugging at his vitals. His brow is +convulsed with the pride and anguish of a demigod. It is a +picture of horrible power. Opposite hangs one of the few +Zurbarans of the gallery,--also a gloomy and terrible work. A +monk kneels in shadows which, by the masterly chiaroscuro of this +ascetic artist, are made to look darker than blackness. Before +him in a luminous nimbus that burns its way through the dark, is +the image of the crucified Saviour, head downwards. So remarkable +is the vigor of the drawing and the power of light in this +picture that you can imagine you see the resplendent crucifix +suddenly thrust into the shadow by the strong hands of invisible +spirits, and swayed for a moment only before the dazzled eyes of +the ecstatic solitary.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">But after you have +made friends with this room it will put off its forbidding +aspect, and you will find it hath a stern look but a gentle +heart. It has two lovely little landscapes by Murillo, showing +how universal was that wholesome genius. Also one of the largest +landscapes of Velazquez, which,</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-37.jpg" alt="cd1-37.jpg" class="c47"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">THE GRAND GALLERY OF THE +PRADO</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS 157</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">when you stand near +it, seems a confused mass of brown daubs, but stepping back a few +yards becomes a most perfect view of the entrance to a royal +park. The wide gate swings on its pivot before your eyes. A court +cortege moves in,--the long, dark alley stretches off for miles +directly in front, without any trick of lines or curves; the +artist has painted the shaded air. To the left a patch of still +water reflects the dark wood, and above there is a distant and +tranquil sky. Had Velazquez not done such vastly greater things, +his few landscapes would alone have won him fame enough. He has +in this room a large number of royal portraits,--one especially +worth attention, of Philip III. The scene is by the shore,--a +cool foreground of sandy beach,--a blue-gray stretch of rippled +water, and beyond, a low promontory between the curling waves and +the cirrus clouds. The king mounts a magnificent gray horse, with +a mane and tail like the broken rush of a cascade. The keeping is +wonderful; a fresh sea breeze blows out of the canvas. A +brilliant bit of color is thrown into the red, gold-fringed scarf +of the horseman, fluttering backward over his shoulder. Yet the +face of the king is, as it should</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">158 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">be, the principal +point of the picture,--the small-eyed, heavy-mouthed, red-lipped, +fair, self-satisfied face of these Austrian despots. It is a +handsomer face than most of Velazquez, as it was probably painted +from memory and lenient tradition. For Philip III. was gathered +to his fathers in the Escorial before Velazquez came up from +Andalusia to seek his fortune at the court. The first work he did +in Madrid was to paint the portrait of the king, which so pleased +his majesty that he had it repeated <i>ad nauseam.</i> You see +him served up in every form in this gallery,--on foot, on +horseback, in full armor, in a shooting-jacket, at picnics, and +actually on his knees at his prayers! We wonder if Velazquez ever +grew tired of that vacant face with its contented smirk, or if in +that loyal age the smile of royalty was not always the sunshine +of the court?</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">There is a most +instructive study of faces in the portraits of the Austrian line. +First comes Charles V., the First of Spain, painted by Titian at +Augsburg, on horseback, in the armor he wore at Muhl-berg, his +long lance in rest, his visor up over the eager, powerful +face,--the eye and beak of an eagle, the jaw of a bull-dog, the +face of a born</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS 159</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">ruler, a man of +prey. And yet in the converging lines about the eyes, in the +premature gray hair, in the nervous, irritable lips, you can see +the promise of early decay, of an age that will be the spoil of +superstition and bigotry. It is the face of a man who could make +himself emperor and hermit. In his son, Philip II., the soldier +dies out and the bigot is intensified. In the fine portrait by +Pantoja, of Philip in his age, there is scarcely any trace of the +fresh, fair youth that Titian painted as Adonis. It is the face +of a living corpse; of a ghastly pallor, heightened by the dull +black of his mourning suit, where all passion and feeling have +died out of the livid lips and the icy eyes. Beside him hangs the +portrait of his rickety, feebly passionate son, the unfortunate +Don Carlos. The forehead of the young prince is narrow and +ill-formed; the Austrian chin is exaggerated one degree more; he +looks a picture of fitful impulse. His brother, Philip III., we +have just seen, fair and inane,--a monster of cruelty, who burned +Jews and banished Moors, not from malice, but purely from vacuity +of spirit; his head broadens like a pine-apple from the blond +crest to the plump jowls. Every one knows the head of Philip +IV.,--he was fortunate in being the friend</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">160 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">of Velazquez,--the +high, narrow brow, the long, weak face, the yellow, curled +mustache, the thick, red lips, and the ever lengthening Hapsburg +chin. But the line of Austria ends with the utmost limit of +caricature in the face of Charles the Bewitched! Carreño +has given us an admirable portrait of this unfortunate,--the +forehead caved in like the hat of a drunkard, the red-lidded eyes +staring vacantly, a long, thin nose absurd as a Carnival +disguise, an enormous mouth which he could not shut, the +under-jaw projected so prodigiously,--a face incapable of any +emotion but fear. And yet in gazing at this idiotic mask you are +reminded of another face you have somewhere seen, and are +startled to remember it is the resolute face of the warrior and +statesman, the king of men, the Kaiser Karl. Yes, this pitiable +being was the descendant of the great emperor, and for that +sufficient reason, although he was an impotent and shivering +idiot, although he could not sleep without a friar in his bed to +keep the devils away, for thirty-five years this scarecrow ruled +over Spain, and dying made a will whose accomplishment bathed the +Peninsula in blood. It must be confessed this institution of +monarchy is a luxury that must be paid for.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS 161</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">We did not intend +to talk of politics in this room, but that line of royal effigies +was too tempting. Before we go, let us look at a beautiful +Magdalen in penitence, by an unknown artist of the school of +Murillo. She stands near the entrance of her cave, in a listening +attitude. The bright out-of-door light falls on her bare shoulder +and gives the faintest touch of gold to her dishevelled brown +hair. She casts her eyes upward, the large melting eyes of +Andalusia; a chastened sorrow, through which a trembling hope is +shining, softens the somewhat worldly beauty of her exquisite and +sensitive face. Through the mouth of the cave we catch a glimpse +of sunny mountain solitude, and in the rosy air that always +travels with Spanish angels a band of celestial serenaders is +playing. It is a charming composition, without any depth of +sentiment or especial mastery of treatment, but evidently painted +by a clever artist in his youth, and this Magdalen is the +portrait of the lady of his dreams. None of Murillo's pupils but +Tobar could have painted it, and the manner is precisely the same +as that of his Divina Pastora.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Across the hall is +the gallery consecrated to Italian artists. There are not many +pictures of the first</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15"><b>162</b> CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">rank here. They +have been reserved for the great central gallery, where we are +going. But while here, we must notice especially two glorious +works of Tintoret,--the same subject differently treated,--the +Death of Holofernes. Both are placed higher than they should be, +considering their incontestable merit. A full light is needed to +do justice to that magnificence of color which is the pride of +Venice. There are two remarkable pictures of Giordano,--one in +the Roman style, which would not be unworthy of the great Sanzio +himself, a Holy Family, drawn and colored with that scrupulous +correctness which seems so impossible in the ordinary products of +this Protean genius; and just opposite, an apotheosis of Rubens, +surrounded by his usual "properties" of fat angels and genii, +which could be readily sold anywhere as a specimen of the +estimate which the unabashed Fleming placed upon himself. It is +marvellous that any man should so master the habit and the +thought of two artists so widely apart as Raphael and Rubens, as +to produce just such pictures as they would have painted upon the +same themes. The halls and dark corridors of the Museum are +filled with Giordano's canvases. In less than ten years' +residence in Spain he covered the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS 163</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">walls of dozens of +churches and palaces with his fatally facile work. There are more +than three hundred pictures recorded as executed by him in that +time. They are far from being without merit. There is a singular +slap-dash vigor about his drawing. His coloring, except when he +is imitating some earlier master, is usually thin and poor. It is +difficult to repress an emotion of regret in looking at his +laborious yet useless life. With great talents, with +indefatigable industry, he deluged Europe with paintings that no +one cares for, and passed into history simply as Luca Fa +Presto,--Luke Work-Fast.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">It is not by mere +activity that great things are done in art. In the great gallery +we now enter we see the deathless work of the men who wrought in +faith. This is the grandest room in Christendom. It is about +three hundred and fifty feet long and thirty-five broad and high. +It is beautifully lighted from above. Its great length is broken +here and there by vases and statues, so placed between doors as +nowhere to embarrass the view. The northern half of the gallery +is Spanish, and the southern half Italian. Halfway down, a door +to the left opens into an oval chamber, devoted to an eclectic +set</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">164 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">of masterpieces of +every school and age. The gallery ends in a circular room of +French and German pictures, on either side of which there are two +great halls of Dutch and Flemish. On the ground floor there are +some hundreds more Flemish and a hall of sculpture.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The first pictures +you see to your left are by the early masters of Spain,--Morales, +called in Spain the Divine, whose works are now extremely rare, +the Museum possessing only three or four, long, fleshless faces +and stiff figures of Christs and Marys,--and Juan de Juanes, the +founder of the Valentian school, who brought back from Italy the +lessons of Raphael's studio, that firmness of design and +brilliancy of color, and whose genuine merit has survived all +vicissitudes of changing taste. He has here a superb Last Supper +and a spirited series of pictures illustrating the martyrdom of +Stephen. There is perhaps a little too much elaboration of +detail, even for the Romans. Stephen's robes are unnecessarily +new, and the ground where he is stoned is profusely covered with +convenient round missiles the size of Vienna rolls, so exactly +suited to the purpose that it looks as if Providence sided with +the persecutors. But what a wonderful vari-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS 165</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">ety and truth in +the faces and the attitudes of the groups! What mastery of +drawing, and what honest integrity of color after all these ages! +It is reported of Juanes that he always confessed and prayed +before venturing to take up his pencils to touch the features of +the saints and Saviours that shine on his canvas. His +conscientious fervor has its reward.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Across the room are +the Murillos. Hung together are two pictures, not of large +dimensions, but of exquisite perfection, which will serve as fair +illustrations of the work of his youth and his age; the frio and +the vaporoso manner. In the former manner is this charming +picture of Rebecca at the Well; a graceful composition, correct +and somewhat severe drawing, the greatest sharpness and clearness +of outline. In the Martyrdom of St. Andrew the drawing and the +composition are no less absolutely perfect, but there hangs over +the whole picture a luminous haze of strangeness and mystery. A +light that never was on sea or land bathes the distant hills and +battlements, touches the spears of the legionaries, and shines in +full glory on the ecstatic face of the aged saint. It does not +seem a part of the scene. You see the picture</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">166 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">through it. A step +further on there is a Holy Family, which seems to me the ultimate +effort of the early manner. A Jewish carpenter holds his +fair-haired child between his knees. The urchin holds up a bird +to attract the attention of a little white dog on the floor. The +mother, a dark-haired peasant woman, looks on the scene with +quiet amusement. The picture is absolutely perfect in detail. It +seems to be the <i>consigne</i> among critics to say it lacks +"style." They say it is a family scene in Judaea, <i>voilá +tout.</i> Of course, and it is that very truth and nature that +makes this picture so fascinating. The Word was made flesh, and +not a phosphorescent apparition; and Murillo knew what he was +about when he painted this view of the interior of St. Joseph's +shop. What absurd presumption to accuse this great thinker of a +deficiency of ideality, in face of these two glorious Marys of +the Conception that fill the room with light and majesty! They +hang side by side, so alike and yet so distinct in character. One +is a woman in knowledge and a goddess of purity; the other, +absolute innocence, startled by the stupendous revelation and +exalted by the vaguely comprehended glory of the future. It is +before this picture that the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS 167</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">visitor always +lingers longest. The face is the purest expression of girlish +loveliness possible to art. The Virgin floats upborne by rosy +clouds, flocks of pink cherubs flutter at her feet waving +palm-branches. The golden air is thick with suggestions of dim +celestial faces, but nothing mars the imposing solitude of the +Queen of Heaven, shrined alone, throned in the luminous azure. +Surely no man ever understood or interpreted like this grand +Andalusian the power that the worship of woman exerts on the +religions of the world. All the passionate love that has been +poured out in all the ages at the feet of Ashtaroth and Artemis +and Aphrodite and Freya found visible form and color at last on +that immortal canvas where, with his fervor of religion and the +full strength of his virile devotion to beauty, he created, for +the adoration of those who should follow him, this type of the +perfect Feminine,--</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font9 c42">"Thee! standing +loveliest in the open heaven! Ave Maria! only Heaven and +Thee!"</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">There are some +dozens more of Murillo here almost equally remarkable, but I +cannot stop to make an unmeaning catalogue of them. There is a +charming Gypsy Fortune-teller, whose wheedling voice and smile +were caught and fixed in some</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">168 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">happy moment in +Seville; an Adoration of the Shepherds, wonderful in its happy +combination of rigid truth with the warmest glow of poetry; two +Annunciations, rich with the radiance that streams through the +rent veil of the innermost heaven,--lights painted boldly upon +lights, the White Dove sailing out of the dazzling background of +celestial effulgence,--a miracle and mystery of theology repeated +by a miracle and mystery of art.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Even when you have +exhausted the Murillos of the Museum you have not reached his +highest achievements in color and design. You will find these in +the Academy of San Fernando,--the Dream of the Roman Gentleman, +and the Founding of the Church of St. Mary the Greater; and the +powerful composition of St. Elizabeth of Hungary, in her hospital +work. In the first, a noble Roman and his wife have suddenly +fallen asleep in their chairs in an elegant apartment. Their +slumber is painted with curious felicity,--you lower your voice +for fear of waking them. On the left of the picture is their +dream: the Virgin comes in a halo of golden clouds and designates +the spot where her church is to be built. In the next picture the +happy couple kneel before the pope and</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS 169</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">expose their high +commission, and outside a brilliant procession moves to the +ceremony of the laying of the corner-stone. The St. Elizabeth is +a triumph of genius over a most terribly repulsive subject. The +wounds and sores of the beggars are painted with unshrinking +fidelity, but every vulgar detail is redeemed by the beauty and +majesty of the whole. I think in these pictures of Murillo the +last word of Spanish art was reached. There was no further +progress possible in life, even for him. "Other heights in other +lives, God willing."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Returning to the +Museum and to Velazquez, we find ourselves in front of his +greatest historical work, the Surrender of Breda. This is +probably the most utterly unaffected historical painting in +existence. There is positively no stage business about it. On the +right is the Spanish staff, on the left the deputation of the +vanquished Flemings. In the centre the great Spinola accepts the +keys of the city from the governor; his attitude and face are +full of dignity softened by generous and affable grace. He lays +his hand upon the shoulder of the Flemish general, and you can +see he is paying him some chivalrous compliment on the gallant +fight he has lost. If your eyes wander through the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">170 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">open space between +the two escorts, you see a wonderful widespread landscape in the +Netherlands, which would form a fine picture if the figures all +were gone. Opposite this great work is another which artists +consider greater,--Las Meninas. When Luca Giordano came from +Italy he inquired for this picture, and said on seeing it, "This +is the theology of painting." If our theology were what it should +be, and cannot be, absolute and unquestionable truth, Luca the +Quick-worker would have been right. Velazquez was painting the +portrait of a stupid little infanta when the idea came to him of +perpetuating the scene just as it was. We know how we have wished +to be sure of the exact accessories of past events. The modern +rage for theatrical local color is an illustration of this +desire. The great artist, who must have honored his art, +determined to give to future ages an exact picture of one instant +of his glorious life. It is not too much to say he has done this. +He stands before his easel, his pencils in his hand. The little +princess is stiffly posing in the centre. Her little maids are +grouped about her. Two hideous dwarfs on the right are teasing a +noble dog who is too drowsy and magnanimous</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS 171</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">to growl. In the +background at the end of a long gallery a gentleman is opening a +door to the garden. The presence of royalty is indicated by the +reflection of the faces of the king and queen in a small mirror, +where you would expect to see your own. The longer you look upon +this marvellous painting, the less possible does it seem that it +is merely the placing of color on canvas which causes this +perfect illusion. It does not seem possible that you are looking +at a plane surface. There is a stratum of air before, behind, and +beside these figures. You could walk on that floor and see how +the artist is getting on with the portrait. There is space and +light in this picture, as in any room. Every object is detached, +as in the common miracle of the stereoscope. If art consist in +making a fleeting moment immortal, if the True is a higher ideal +than the Beautiful, then it will be hard to find a greater +painting than this. It is utterly without beauty; its tone is a +cold olive green-gray; there is not one redeeming grace or charm +about it except the noble figure of Velazquez himself,--yet in +its austere fidelity to truth it stands incomparable in the +world. It gained Velazquez his greatest triumph. You see on his +breast a sprawl-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">172 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">ing red cross, +painted evidently by an unskilful hand. This was the gracious +answer made by Philip IV. when the artist asked him if anything +was wanting to the picture. This decoration, daubed by the royal +hand, was the accolade of the knighthood of Santiago,--an honor +beyond the dreams of an artist of that day. It may be considered +the highest compliment ever paid to a painter, except the one +paid by Courbet to himself, when he refused to be decorated by +the Man of December.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Among Velazquez's +most admirable studies of life is his picture of the Borrachos. A +group of rustic roysterers are admitting a neophyte into the +drunken <i>confrérie.</i> He kneels to receive a crown of +ivy from the hands of the king of the revel. A group of older +tipplers are filling their cups, or eyeing their brimming +glasses, with tipsy, mock-serious glances. There has never been a +chapter written which so clearly shows the drunkard's nature as +this vulgar anacreontic. A thousand men have painted drunken +frolics, but never one with such distinct spiritual insight as +this. To me the finest product of Jordaens' genius is his Bohnen +Koenig in the Belvedere, but there you see only</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-38.jpg" alt="cd1-38.jpg" class="c48"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">THE LONG GALLERY OF THE +PRADO</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS 173</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">the incidents of +the mad revel; every one is shouting or singing or weeping with +maudlin glee or tears. But in this scene of the Borrachos there +is nothing scenic or forced. These topers have come together to +drink, for the love of the wine,--the fun is secondary. This +wonderful reserve of Velazquez is clearly seen in his conception +of the king of the rouse. He is a young man, with a heavy, dull, +somewhat serious face, fat rather than bloated, rather pale than +flushed. He is naked to the waist to show the plump white arms +and shoulders and the satiny skin of the voluptuary; one of those +men whose heads and whose stomachs are too loyal ever to give +them <i>Katzenjammer</i> or remorse. The others are of the +commoner type of haunters of wine-shops,--with red eyes and +coarse hides and grizzled matted hair,--but every man of them +inexorably true, and a predestined sot.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">We must break away +from Velazquez, passing by his marvellous portraits of kings and +dwarfs, saints and poodles,--among whom there is a dwarf of two +centuries ago, who is too like Tom Thumb to serve for his twin +brother,--and a portrait of Aesop<i>,</i> which is a flash of +intuition,</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">174 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">an epitome of all +the fables. Before leaving the Spaniards we must look at the most +pleasing of all Ribera's works,--the Ladder-Dream of Jacob. The +patriarch lies stretched on the open plain in the deep sleep of +the weary. To the right in a broad shaft of cloudy gold the +angels are ascending and descending. The picture is remarkable +for its mingling the merits of Ribera's first and second manner. +It is a Caravaggio in its strength and breadth of light and +shade, and a Correggio in its delicacy of sentiment and refined +beauty of coloring. He was not often so fortunate in his Parmese +efforts. They are usually marked by a timidity and an attempt at +prettiness inconceivable in the haughty and impulsive master of +the Neapolitan school.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Of the three great +Spaniards, Ribera is the least sympathetic. He often displays a +tumultuous power and energy to which his calmer rivals are +strangers. But you miss in him that steady devotion to truth +which distinguishes Velazquez, and that spiritual lift which +ennobles Murillo. The difference, I conceive, lies in the moral +character of the three. Ribera was a great artist, and the others +were noble men. Ribera passed a youth of</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS 175</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">struggle and hunger +and toil among the artists of Rome,--a stranger and penniless in +the magnificent city,--picking up crusts in the street and +sketching on quiet curbstones, with no friend, and no name but +that of Spagnoletto,--the little Spaniard. Suddenly rising to +fame, he broke loose from his Roman associations and fled to +Naples, where he soon became the wealthiest and the most arrogant +artist of his time. He held continually at his orders a faction +of <i>bravi</i> who drove from Naples, with threats and insults +and violence, every artist of eminence who dared visit the city. +Car-racci and Guido only saved their lives by flight, and the +blameless and gifted Domenichino, it is said, was foully murdered +by his order. It is not to such a heart as this that is given the +ineffable raptures of Murillo or the positive revelations of +Velazquez. These great souls were above cruelty or jealousy. +Velazquez never knew the storms of adversity. Safely anchored in +the royal favor, he passed his uneventful life in the calm of his +beloved work. But his hand and home were always open to the +struggling artists of Spain. He was the benefactor of Alonzo +Cano; and when Murillo came up to Madrid, weary and footsore with +his</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">176 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">long tramp from +Andalusia, sustained by an innate consciousness of power, all on +fire with a picture of Van Dyck he had seen in Seville, the rich +and honored painter of the court received with generous kindness +the shabby young wanderer, clothed him, and taught him, and +watched with noble delight the first flights of the young eagle +whose strong wing was so soon to cleave the empyrean. And when +Murillo went back to Seville he paid his debt by doing as much +for others. These magnanimous hearts were fit company for the +saints they drew.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">We have lingered so +long with the native artists we shall have little to say of the +rest. There are ten fine Raphaels, but it is needless to speak of +them. They have been endlessly reproduced. Raphael is known and +judged by the world. After some centuries of discussion the +scorners and the critics are dumb. All men have learned the habit +of Albani, who, in a frivolous and unappreciative age, always +uncovered his head at the name of Raphael Sanzio. We look at his +precious work with a mingled feeling of gratitude for what we +have, and of rebellious wonder that lives like his and Shelley's +should be extinguished in their glorious</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS 177</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">dawn, while kings +and country gentlemen live a hundred years. What boundless +possibilities of bright achievement these two divine youths owed +us in the forty years more they should have lived! Raphael's +greatest pictures in Madrid are the Spasimo di Sicilia, and the +Holy Family, called La Perla. The former has a singular history. +It was painted for a convent in Palermo, shipwrecked on the way, +and thrown ashore on the gulf of Genoa. It was again sent to +Sicily, brought to Spain by the Viceroy of Naples, stolen by +Napoleon, and in Paris was subjected to a brilliantly successful +operation for transferring the layer of paint from the worm-eaten +wood to canvas. It came back to Spain with other stolen goods +from the Louvre. La Perla was bought by Philip IV. at the sale of +Charles I.'s effects after his decapitation. Philip was fond of +Charles, but could not resist the temptation to profit by his +death. This picture was the richest of the booty. It is, of all +the faces of the Virgin extant, the most perfectly beautiful and +one of the least spiritual.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">There is another +fine Madonna, commonly called La Virgen del Pez, from a fish +which young Tobit holds in his hand. It is rather tawny in color, +as if</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">178 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">it had been painted +on a pine board and the wood had asserted itself from below. It +is a charming picture, with all the great Roman's inevitable +perfection of design; but it is incomprehensible that critics, M. +Viardot among them, should call it the first in rank of Raphael's +Virgins in Glory. There are none which can dispute that title +with Our Lady of San Sisto, unearthly and supernatural in beauty +and majesty.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The school of +Florence is represented by a charming Mona Lisa of Leonardo da +Vinci, almost identical with that of the Louvre; and six +admirable pictures of Andrea del Sarto. But the one which most +attracts and holds all those who regard the Faultless Painter +with sympathy, and who admiring his genius regret his errors, is +a portrait of his wife Lucrezia Fede, whose name, a French writer +has said, is a double epigram. It was this capricious and wilful +beauty who made poor Andrea break his word and embezzle the money +King Francis had given him to spend for works of art. Yet this +dangerous face is his best excuse,--the face of a man-snarer, +subtle and passionate and cruel in its blind selfishness, and yet +so beautiful that any man might yield to it against the cry +of</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS 179</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c20">his own warning +conscience. Browning must have seen it before he wrote, in his +pathetic poem,--</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font9 c24">"Let my hands frame +your face in your hair's gold, You beautiful Lucrezia, that are +mine!"</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Nowhere, away from +the Adriatic, is the Venetian school so richly represented as in +Madrid. Charles and Philip were the most munificent friends and +patrons of Titian, and the Royal Museum counts among its +treasures in consequence the enormous number of forty-three +pictures by the wonderful centenarian. Among these are two upon +which he set great value,--a Last Supper, which has unfortunately +mouldered to ruin in the humid refectory of the Escorial, equal +in merit and destiny with that of Leonardo; and the Gloria, or +apotheosis of the imperial family, which, after the death of +Charles, was brought from Yuste to the Escorial, and thence came +to swell the treasures of the Museum. It is a grand and masterly +work. The vigorous genius of Titian has grappled with the +essential difficulties of a subject that trembles on the balance +of ridiculous and sublime, and has come out triumphant. The +Father and the Son sit on high. The Operating Spirit hovers above +them. The Virgin in robes of azure stands in the blaze +of</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">180 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">the Presence. The +celestial army is ranged around. Below, a little lower than the +angels, are Charles and Philip with their wives, on their knees, +with white cowls and clasped hands,--Charles in his premature +age, with worn face and grizzled beard; and Philip in his youth +of unwholesome fairness, with red lips and pink eyelids, such as +Titian painted him in the Adonis. The foreground is filled with +prophets and saints of the first dignity, and a kneeling woman, +whose face is not visible, but whose attitude and drapery are +drawn with the sinuous and undulating grace of that hand which +could not fail. Every figure is turned to the enthroned Deity, +touched with ineffable light. The artist has painted heaven, and +is not absurd. In that age of substantial faith such achievements +were possible.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">There are two +Venuses by Titian very like that of Dresden, but the heads have +not the same dignity; and a Danaé which is a replica of +the Vienna one. His Salome bearing the Head of John the Baptist +is one of the finest impersonations of the pride of life +conceivable. So unapproachable are the soft lights and tones on +the perfect arms and shoulders of the full-bodied maiden, that +Tintoret</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS 181</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">one day exclaimed +in despair before it, "That fellow paints with ground +flesh."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">This gallery +possesses one of the last works of Titian,--the Battle of +Lepanto, which was fought when the artist was ninety-four years +of age. It is a courtly allegory,--King Philip holds his little +son in his arms, a courier angel brings the news of victory, and +to the infant a palm-branch and the scroll <i>Majora tibi.</i> +Outside you see the smoke and flash of a naval battle, and a +malignant and tur-baned Turk lies bound on the floor. It would +seem incredible that this enormous canvas should have been +executed at such an age, did we not know that when the pest cut +the mighty master off in his hundredth year he was busily at work +upon a Descent from the Cross, which Palma the Elder finished on +his knees and dedicated to God: Quod Titianus inchoatum reliquit +Palma reverenter absolvit Deoque dicavit opus.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The vast +representation of Titian rather injures Veronese and Tintoret. +Opposite the Gloria of Yuste hangs the sketch of that stupendous +Paradise of Tintoret, which we see in the Palace of the +Doges,--the biggest picture ever painted by mortal, thirty feet +high and seventy-four long.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">182 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">The sketch was +secured by Velazquez in his tour through Italy. The most charming +picture of Veronese is a Venus and Adonis, which is finer than +that of Titian,--a classic and most exquisite idyl of love and +sleep, cool shadow and golden-sifted sunshine. His most +considerable work in the gallery is a Christ teaching the +Doctors, magnificent in arrangement, severely correct in drawing, +and of a most vivid and dramatic interest.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">We pass through a +circular vaulted chamber to reach the Flemish rooms. There is a +choice though scanty collection of the German and French schools. +Albert Dürer has an Adam and Eve, and a priceless portrait +of himself as perfectly preserved as if it were painted +yesterday. He wears a curious and picturesque costume,--striped +black-and-white,--a graceful tasselled cap of the same. The +picture is sufficiently like the statue at Nuremberg; a long +South-German face, blue-eyed and thin, fair-whiskered, with that +expression of quiet confidence you would expect in the man who +said one day, with admirable candor, when people were praising a +picture of his, "It could not be better done." In this circular +room are four great Claudes, two of which, Sunrise and Sunset, +otherwise called the Embar-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS 183</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">cation of Sta. +Paula, and Tobit and the Angel, are in his best and richest +manner. It is inconceivable to us, who graduate men by a +high-school standard, that these refined and most elegant works +could have been produced by a man so imperfectly educated as +Claude Lorrain.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">There remain the +pictures of the Dutch and the Flemings. It is due to the causes +we have mentioned in the beginning that neither in Antwerp nor +Dresden nor Paris is there such wealth and profusion of the +Netherlands art as in this mountain-guarded corner of Western +Europe. I shall have but a word to say of these three vast rooms, +for Rubens and Van Dyck and Teniers are known to every one. The +first has here a representation so complete that if Europe were +sunk by a cataclysm from the Baltic to the Pyrenees every +essential characteristic of the great Fleming could still be +studied in this gallery. With the exception of his Descent from +the Cross in the Cathedral at Antwerp, painted in a moment of +full inspiration that never comes twice in a life, everything he +has done elsewhere may be matched in Madrid. His largest picture +here is an Adoration of the Kings, an overpowering exhibition of +wasteful luxuriance</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">184 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">of color and +<i>fougue</i> of composition. To the left the Virgin stands +leaning with queenly majesty over the effulgent Child. From this +point the light flashes out over the kneeling magi, the +gorgeously robed attendants, the prodigality of velvet and jewels +and gold, to fade into the lovely clear-obscure of a starry night +peopled with dim camels and cattle. On the extreme right is a +most graceful and gallant portrait of the artist on horseback. We +have another fine self-portraiture in the Garden of Love,--a +group of lords and ladies in a delicious pleasance where the +greatest seigneur is Peter Paul Rubens and the finest lady is +Helen Forman. These true artists had to paint for money so many +ignoble faces that they could not be blamed for taking their +revenge in painting sometimes their own noble heads. Van Dyck +never drew a profile so faultless in manly beauty as his own +which we see on the same canvas with that of his friend the Earl +of Bristol. Look at the two faces side by side, and say whether +God or the king can make the better nobleman.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Among those +mythological subjects in which Rubens delighted, the best here +are his Perseus and Andromeda, where the young hero comes +glori-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">AN HOUR WITH THE +PAINTERS 185</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">ously in a +brand-new suit of Milanese armor, while the lovely princess, in a +costume that never grows old-fashioned, consisting of sunshine +and golden hair, awaits him and deliverance in beautiful +resignation; a Judgment of Paris, the Three Graces,--both +prodigies of his strawberries-and-cream color; and a curious +suckling of Hercules, which is the prototype or adumbration of +the ecstatic vision of St. Bernard. He has also a copy of +Titian's Adam and Eve, in an out-of-the-way place downstairs, +which should be hung beside the original, to show the difference +of handling of the two master colorists.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Especially happy is +this Museum in its Van Dycks. Besides those incomparable +portraits of Lady Oxford, of Liberti the Organist of Antwerp, and +others better than the best of any other man, there are a few +large and elaborate compositions such as I have never seen +elsewhere. The principal one is the Capture of Christ by Night in +the Garden of Gethsemane, which has all the strength of Rubens, +with a more refined study of attitudes and a greater delicacy of +tone and touch. Another is the Crowning with Thorns,--although of +less dimensions, of profound significance in +expression,</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">186 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">and a flowing and +marrowy softness of execution. You cannot survey the work of Van +Dyck in this collection, so full of deep suggestion, showing an +intellect so vivid and so refined, a mastery of processes so +thorough and so intelligent, without the old wonder of what he +would have done in that ripe age when Titian and Murillo and +Shakespeare wrought their best and fullest, and the old regret +for the dead,--as Edgar Poe sings, the doubly dead in that they +died so young. We are tempted to lift the veil that hides the +unknown, at least with the furtive hand of conjecture; to imagine +a field of unquenched activity where the early dead, free from +the clogs and trammels of the lower world, may follow out the +impulses of their diviner nature,--where Andrea has no wife, and +Raphael and Van Dyck no disease,--where Keats and Shelley have +all eternity for their lofty rhyme,--where Ellsworth and Koerner +and the Lowell boys can turn their alert and athletic +intelligence to something better than war.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-39.jpg" alt="cd1-39.jpg" class="c49"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">A CASTLE IN THE +AIR</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">I HAVE sometimes +thought that a symptom of the decay of true kinghood in modern +times is the love of monarchs for solitude. In the early days +when monarchy was a real power to answer a real want, the king +had no need to hide himself. He was the strongest, the most +knowing, the most cunning. He moved among men their acknowledged +chief. He guided and controlled them. He never lost his dignity +by daily use. He could steal a horse like Diomede, he could mend +his own breeches like Dagobert, and never tarnish the lustre of +the crown by it. But in later times</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">188 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">the throne has +become an anachronism. The wearer of a crown has done nothing to +gain it but give himself the trouble to be born. He has no claim +to the reverence or respect of men. Yet he insists upon it, and +receives some show of it. His life is mainly passed in keeping up +this battle for a lost dignity and worship. He is given up to +shams and ceremonies.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">To a life like this +there is something embarrassing in the movement and activity of a +great city. The king cannot join in it without a loss of +prestige. Being outside of it, he is vexed and humiliated by it. +The empty forms become nauseous in the midst of this honest and +wholesome reality of out-of-doors.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Hence the necessity +of these quiet retreats in the forests, in the water-guarded +islands, in the cloud-girdled mountains. Here the world is not +seen or heard. Here the king may live with such approach to +nature as his false and deformed education will allow. He is +surrounded by nothing but the world of servants and courtiers, +and it requires little effort of the imagination to consider +himself chief and lord.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">A CASTLE IN THE AIR +189</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">It was this spirit +which in the decaying ripeness of the Bourbon dynasty drove the +Louis from Paris to Versailles and from Versailles to Marly. +Millions were wasted to build the vast monument of royal fatuity, +and when it was done the Grand Monarque found it necessary to fly +from time to time to the sham solitude and mock retirement he had +built an hour away.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">When Philip V. came +down from France to his splendid exile on the throne of Spain, he +soon wearied of the interminable ceremonies of the Cas-tilian +court, and finding one day, while hunting, a pleasant farm on the +territory of the Segovian monks, flourishing in a wrinkle of the +Guadarrama Mountains, he bought it, and reared the Palace of La +Granja. It is only kings who can build their castles in the air +of palpable stones and mortar. This lordly pleasure-house stands +four thousand feet above the sea level. On this commanding +height, in this savage Alpine loneliness, in the midst of a +scenery once wildly beautiful, but now shorn and shaven into a +smug likeness of a French garden, Philip passed all the later +years of his gloomy and inglorious life.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">190 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">It has been ever +since a most tempting summer-house to all the Bourbons. When the +sun is calcining the plains of Castile, and the streets of Madrid +are white with the hot light of midsummer, this palace in the +clouds is as cool and shadowy as spring twilights. And besides, +as all public business is transacted in Madrid, and La Granja is +a day's journey away, it is too much trouble to send a courier +every day for the royal signature,--or, rather, rubric, for +royalty in Spain is above handwriting, and gives its majestic +approval with a flourish of the pen,--so that everything waits a +week or so, and much business goes finally undone; and this is +the highest triumph of Spanish industry and skill.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">We had some formal +business with the court of the regent, and were not sorry to +learn that his highness would not return to the capital for some +weeks, and that consequently, following the precedent of a +certain prophet, we must go to the mountain.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">We found at the +Estación del Norte the state railway carriage of her late +majesty,--a brilliant creation of yellow satin and profuse +gilding, a bovidoir on wheels,--not too full of a +distinguished</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-40.jpg" alt="cd1-40.jpg" class="c50"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5">THE PALACE, LA +GRANJA</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">A CASTLE IN THE AIR +191</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">company. Some of +the leading men of New Spain, one or two ministers, were there, +and we passed a pleasant two hours on the road in that most +seductive of all human occupations,--talking politics.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">It is remarkable +that whenever a nation is remodelling its internal structure, the +subject most generally discussed is the constitutional system of +the United States. The republicans usually adopt it solid. The +monarchists study it with a jealous interest. I fell into +conversation with Señor------, one of the best minds in +Spain, an enlightened though conservative statesman. He said: "It +is hard for Europe to adopt a settled belief about you. America +is a land of wonders, of contradictions. One party calls your +system freedom, another anarchy. In all legislative assemblies of +Europe, republicans and absolutists alike draw arguments from +America. But what cannot be denied are the effects, the results. +These are evident, something vast and grandiose, a life and +movement to which the Old World is stranger." He afterwards +referred with great interest to the imaginary imperialist +movement in America, and raised his eyebrows in polite +incredulity when I assured him</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">192 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">there was as much +danger of Spain becoming Mohammedan as of America becoming +imperialist.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">We stopped at the +little station of Villalba, in the midst of the wide brown +table-land that stretches from Madrid to the Escorial. At +Villalba we found the inevitable swarm of beggars, who always +know by the sure instinct of wretchedness where a harvest of +cuartos is to be achieved. I have often passed Villalba and have +seen nothing but the station-master and the water-vender. But +to-day, because there were a half dozen excellencies on the +train, the entire mendicant force of the district was on parade. +They could not have known these gentlemen were coming; they must +have scented pennies in the air.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Awaiting us at the +rear of the station were three enormous lumbering diligences, +each furnished with nine superb mules,--four pairs and a leader. +They were loaded with gaudy trappings, and their shiny coats, and +backs shorn into graceful arabesques, showed that they did not +belong to the working-classes, but enjoyed the gentlemanly +leisure of official station. The drivers wore a smart postilion +uniform and the royal crown on their caps.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">We threw some +handfuls of copper and bronze</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">A CASTLE IN THE AIR +193</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">among the +picturesque mendicants. They gathered them up with grave +Castilian decorum, and said, "God will repay your graces." The +postilions cracked their whips, the mules shook their bells +gayly, the heavy wagons started off at a full gallop, and the +beggars said, "May your graces go with God!"</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">It was the end of +July, and the sky was blue and cloudless. The fine, soft light of +the afternoon was falling on the tawny slopes and the +close-reaped fields. The harvest was over. In the fields on +either side they were threshing their grain, not as in the +outside world, with the whirring of loud and swift machinery, nor +even with the active and lively swinging of flails; but in the +open air, under the warm sky, the cattle were lazily treading out +the corn on the bare ground, to be winnowed by the wandering +wind. No change from the time of Solomon. Through an infinity of +ages, ever since corn and cattle were, the Iberian farmer in this +very spot had driven his beasts over his crop, and never dreamed +of a better way of doing the work.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Not only does the +Spaniard not seek for improvements, he utterly despises and +rejects them.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">194 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The poorer classes +especially, who would find an enormous advantage in increased +production, lightening their hard lot by a greater plenty of the +means of life, regard every introduction of improved machinery as +a blow at the rights of labor. When many years ago a Dutch +vintner went to Valdepeñas and so greatly improved the +manufacture of that excellent but ill-made wine that its price +immediately rose in the Madrid market, he was mobbed and +plundered by his ignorant neighbors, because, as they said, he +was laboring to make wine dearer. In every attempt which has been +made to manufacture improved machinery in Spain, the greatest +care has to be taken to prevent the workmen from maliciously +damaging the works, which they imagine are to take the bread from +the mouths of their children.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">So strong is this +feeling in every department of national life, that the mayoral +who drove our spanking nine-in-hand received with very ill humor +our suggestion that the time could be greatly shortened by a Fell +railroad over the hills to La Granja. "What would become of +nosotros?" he asked. And it really would seem a pity to +annihilate so much picturesqueness and color at the bidding +of</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">A CASTLE IN THE AIR +195</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">mere utility. A +gayly embroidered Andalusian jacket, bright scarlet silk +waistcoat,--a rich wide belt, into which his long knife, the +navaja, was jauntily thrust,--buckskin breeches, with Valentian +stockings, which, as they are open at the bottom, have been aptly +likened to a Spaniard's purse,--and shoes made of Murcian +matting, composed his natty outfit. By his side on the box sat +the zagal, his assistant, whose especial function seemed to be to +swear at the cattle. I have heard some eloquent imprecation in my +day. "Our army swore terribly" at Hilton Head. The objuration of +the boatmen of the Mississippi is very vigorous and racy. But I +have never assisted at a session of profanity so loud, so +energetic, so original as that with which this Castilian +postilion regaled us. The wonderful consistency and perseverance +with which the role was sustained was worthy of a much better +cause.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">He began by yelling +in a coarse, strident voice, "Arre! arre!" (Get up!) with a +vicious emphasis on the final syllable. This is one of the +Moorish words that have remained fixed like fossils in the +language of the conquerors. Its constant use in the mouths of +muleteers has given them the name</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">196 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">of arrieros. This +general admonition being addressed to the team at large, the +zagal descended to details, and proceeded to vilipend the +galloping beasts separately, beginning with the leader. He +informed him, still in this wild, jerking scream, that he was a +dog, that his mother's character was far from that of Caesar's +wife, and that if more speed was not exhibited on this down +grade, he would be forced to resort to extreme measures. At the +mention of a whip, the tall male mule who led the team dashed +gallantly off, and the diligence was soon enveloped in a cloud of +dust. This seemed to excite our gay charioteer to the highest +degree. He screamed lustily at his mules, addressing each +personally by its name. "Andaluza, arre! Thou of Arragon, go! +Beware the scourge, Manchega!" and every animal acknowledged the +special attention by shaking its ears and bells and whisking its +shaven tail, as the diligence rolled furiously over the dull drab +plain.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">For three hours the +iron lungs of the muleteer knew no rest or pause. Several times +in the journey we stopped at a post-station to change our cattle, +but the same brazen throat sufficed for all the threatening and +encouragement that kept them</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">A CASTLE IN THE AIR +197</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">at the top of their +speed. Before we arrived at our journey's end, however, he was +hoarse as a raven, and kept one hand pressed to his jaw to +reinforce the exhausted muscles of speech.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">When the wide and +dusty plain was passed, we began by a slow and winding ascent the +passage of the Guadarrama. The road is an excellent one, and +although so seldom used,--a few months only in the year,--it is +kept in the most perfect repair. It is exclusively a summer road, +being in the winter impassable with snow. It affords at every +turn the most charming compositions of mountain and wooded +valley. At intervals we passed a mounted guardia civil, who sat +as motionless in his saddle as an equestrian statue, and saluted +as the coaches rattled by. And once or twice in a quiet nook by +the roadside we came upon the lonely cross that marked the spot +where a man had been murdered.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">It was nearly +sunset when we arrived at the summit of the pass. We halted to +ask for a glass of water at the hut of a gray-haired woman on the +mountain-top. It was given and received as always in this pious +country, in the name of God. As we descended, the mules seemed to +have gained new vigor from the prospect of an easy stretch of +<i>fací-</i></span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">198 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13"><i>lis +descensus,</i> and the zagal employed what was left of his voice +in provoking them to speed by insulting remarks upon their +lineage. The quick twilight fell as we entered a vast forest of +pines that clothed the mountain-side. The enormous trees looked +in the dim evening light like the forms of the Anakim, maimed +with lightning but still defying heaven. Years of battle with the +mountain winds had twisted them into every conceivable shape of +writhing and distorted deformity. I never saw trees that so +nearly conveyed the idea of being the visible prison of tortured +dryads. Their trunks, white and glistening with oozing resin, +added to the ghostly impression they created in the uncertain and +failing light.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">We reached the +valley and rattled by a sleepy village, where we were greeted by +a chorus of outraged curs whose beauty-sleep we had disturbed, +and then began the slow ascent of the hill where St. Ildefonso +stands. We had not gone far when we heard a pattering of hoofs +and a ringing of sabres coming down the road to meet us. The +diligence stopped, and the Introducer of Ambassadors jumped to +the ground and announced, "El Regente del Reino!" It was the +regent, the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-41.jpg" alt="cd1-41.jpg" class="c51"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5">SAN ILDEFONSO</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">A CASTLE IN THE AIR +199</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">courteous and +amiable Marshal Serrano, who had ridden out from the palace to +welcome his guests, and who, after hasty salutations, galloped +back to La Granja, where we soon arrived.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">We were assigned +the apartments usually given to the papal nuncio, and slept with +an episcopal peace of mind. In the morning, as we were walking +about the gardens, we saw looking from the palace window one of +the most accomplished gentlemen and diplomatists of the new +regime. He descended and did the honors of the place. The system +of gardens and fountains is enormous. It is evidently modelled +upon Versailles, but the copy is in many respects finer than the +original. The peculiarity of the site, while offering great +difficulties, at the same time enhances the triumph of success. +This is a garden taught to bloom upon a barren mountain-side. The +earth in which these trees are planted was brought from those dim +plains in the distance on the backs of men and mules. The pipes +that supply these innumerable fountains were laid on the bare +rocks and the soil was thrown over them. Every tree was guarded +and watched like a baby. There was probably never a garden that +grew under such circumstances,</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">200 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">--but the result is +superb. The fountains are fed by a vast reservoir in the +mountain, and the water they throw into the bright air is as +clear as morning dew. Every alley and avenue is a vista that ends +in a vast picture of shaggy hills or far-off plains,--while +behind the royal gardens towers the lordly peak of the +Peñalara, thrust eight thousand feet into the thin blue +ether.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The palace has its +share of history. It witnessed the abdication of the uxorious +bigot Philip V. in 1724, and his resumption of the crown the next +year at the instance of his proud and turbulent Parmesan wife. +His bones rest in the church here, as he hated the Austrian line +too intensely to share with them the gorgeous crypt of the +Escorial. His wife, Elizabeth Farnese, lies under the same +gravestone with him, as if unwilling to forego even in death that +tremendous influence which her vigorous vitality had always +exercised over his wavering and sensual nature. "Das +Ewig-Weibliche" masters and guides him still.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">This retreat in the +autumn of 1832 was the scene of a prodigious exhibition of +courage and energy on the part of another Italian woman, +Doña Louisa Carlota de Borbon. Ferdinand VIL,</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">A CASTLE IN THE AIR +201</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">his mind weakened +by illness, and influenced by his ministers, had proclaimed his +brother Don Carlos heir to the throne, to the exclusion of his +own infant daughter. His wife, Queen Christine, broken down by +the long conflict, had given way in despair. But her sister, +Doña Louisa Carlota, heard of the news in the south of +Spain, and, leaving her babies at <i>Cadiz</i> (two little +urchins, one of whom was to be king consort, and the other was to +fall by his cousin Montpensier's hand in the field of +Carabanchel), she posted without a moment's pause for rest or +sleep over mountains and plains from the sea to La Granja. She +fought with the lackeys and the ministers twenty-four hours +before she could see her sister the queen. Having breathed into +Christine her own invincible spirit, they succeeded, after +endless pains, in reaching the king. Obstinate as the weak often +are, he refused at first to listen to them; but by their womanly +wiles, their Italian policy, their magnetic force, they at last +brought him to revoke his decree in favor of Don Carlos and to +recognize the right of his daughter to the crown. Then, terrible +in her triumph, Doña Louisa Carlota sent for the Minister +Calomarde, overwhelmed him with the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">202 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">coarsest and most +furious abuse, and, unable to confine her victorious rage and +hate to words alone, she slapped the astounded minister in the +face. Calomarde, trembling with rage, bowed and said, "A white +hand cannot offend."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">There is nothing +stronger than a woman's weakness, or weaker than a woman's +strength.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">A few years later, +when Ferdinand was in his grave, and the baby Isabel reigned +under the regency of Christine, a movement in favor of the +constitution of 1812 burst out, where revolutions generally do, +in the south, and spread rapidly over the contiguous provinces. +The infection gained the troops of the royal guard at La Granja, +and they surrounded the palace bawling for the constitution. The +regentess, with a proud reliance upon her own power, ordered them +to send a deputation to her apartment. A dozen of the mutineers +came in, and demanded the constitution.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">"What is that?" +asked the queen.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">They looked at each +other and cudgelled their brains. They had never thought of that +before.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">"Caramba!" said +they. "We don't know. They say it is a good thing, and will raise +our pay and make salt cheaper."</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">A CASTLE IN THE AIR +203</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Their political +economy was somewhat flimsy, but they had the bayonets, and the +queen was compelled to give way and proclaim the +constitution.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">I must add one +trifling reminiscence more of La Granja, which has also its +little moral. A friend of mine, a colonel of engineers, in the +summer before the revolution, was standing before the palace with +some officers, when a mean-looking cur ran past.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">"What an ugly dog!" +said the colonel.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">"Hush!" replied +another, with an awe-struck face. "That is the dog of his royal +highness the Prince of Asturias."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">The colonel +unfortunately had a logical mind, and failed to see that +ownership had any bearing on a purely aesthetic question. He +defined his position. "I do not think the dog is ugly because he +belongs to the prince. I only mean the prince has an ugly +dog."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">The window just +above them slammed, and another officer came up and said that the +Adversary was to pay. "THE QUEEN was at the window and heard +every word you said."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">An hour after the +colonel received an order from the commandant of the place, +revoking his</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">204 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">leave of absence +and ordering him to duty in Madrid. It is not very surprising +that this officer was at the Bridge of Alcolea.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">At noon the day +grew dark with clouds, and the black storm-wreath came down over +the mountains. A terrific fire of artillery resounded for a +half-hour in the craggy peaks about us, and a driving shower +passed over palace and gardens. Then the sun came out again, the +pleasure-grounds were fresher and greener than ever, and the +visitors thronged in the court of the palace to see the fountains +in play. The regent led the way on foot. The general followed in +a pony phaeton, and ministers, adjutants, and the population of +the district trooped along in a party-colored mass.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">It was a good +afternoon's work to visit all the fountains. They are twenty-six +in number, strewn over the undulating grounds. People who visit +Paris usually consider a day of Grandes Eaux at Versailles the +last word of this species of costly trifling. But the waters at +Versailles bear no comparison with those of La Granja. The sense +is fatigued and bewildered here with their magnificence and +infinite variety. The vast reservoir in the bosom of the +mountain, filled with the purest</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">A CASTLE IN THE AIR +205</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">water, gives a +possibility of more superb effects than have been attained +anywhere else in the world. The Fountain of the Winds is one, +where a vast mass of water springs into the air from the foot of +a great cavernous rock; there is a succession of exquisite +cascades called the Race-Course, filled with graceful statuary; a +colossal group of Apollo slaying the Python, who in his death +agony bleeds a torrent of water; the Basket of Flowers, which +throws up a system of forty jets; the great single jet called +Fame, which leaps one hundred and thirty feet into the air, a +Niagara reversed; and the crowning glory of the garden, the Baths +of Diana, an immense stage scene in marble and bronze, crowded +with nymphs and hunting-parties, wild beasts and birds, and +everywhere the wildest luxuriance of spouting waters. We were +told that it was one of the royal caprices of a recent tenant of +the palace to emulate her chaste prototype of the silver bow by +choosing this artistic basin for her ablutions, a sufficient +number of civil guards being posted to prevent the approach of +Castilian Actaeons. Ford aptly remarks of these extravagant +follies: "The yoke of building kings is grievous, and especially +when, as St. Simon said of Louis</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">206 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">XIV. and his +Versailles, 'II se plut á tyranniser la +nature.'"</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">As the bilious +Philip paused before this mass of sculptured extravagance, he +looked at it a moment with evident pleasure. Then he thought of +the bill, and whined, "Thou hast amused me three minutes and hast +cost me three millions."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">To do Philip +justice, he did not allow the bills to trouble him much. He died +owing forty-five million piastres, which his dutiful son refused +to pay. When you deal with Bourbons, it is well to remember the +Spanish proverb, "A sparrow in the hand is better than a bustard +on the wing."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">We wasted an hour +in walking through the palace. It is, like all palaces, too fine +and dreary to describe. Miles of drawing-rooms and boudoirs, with +an infinity of tapestry and gilt chairs, all the apartments +haunted by the demon of ennui. All idea of comfort is sacrificed +to costly glitter and flimsy magnificence. Some fine paintings +were pining in exile on the desolate walls. They looked homesick +for the Museum, where they could be seen of men.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The next morning we +drove down the mountain and over the rolling plain to the fine +old city of Segovia. In point of antiquity and historic +inter-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-42.jpg" alt="cd1-42.jpg" class="c52"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">APPROACH TO +SEGOVIA</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">A CASTLE IN THE AIR +207</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">est it is inferior +to no town in Spain. It has lost its ancient importance as a seat +of government and a mart of commerce. Its population is now not +more than eleven thousand. Its manufactures have gone to decay. +Its woollen works, which once employed fourteen thousand persons +and produced annually twenty-five thousand pieces of cloth, now +sustain a sickly existence and turn out not more than two hundred +pieces yearly. Its mint, which once spread over Spain a Danaean +shower of ounces and dollars, is now reduced to the humble office +of striking copper cuartos. More than two centuries ago this +decline began. Boisel, who was there in 1669, speaks of the city +as "presque desert et fort pauvre." He mentions as a mark of the +general unthrift that the day he arrived there was no bread in +town until two o'clock in the afternoon, "and no one was +astonished at it."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Yet even in its +poverty and rags it has the air of a town that has seen better +days. Tradition says it was founded by Hercules. It was an +important city of the Roman Empire, and a great capital in the +days of the Arab monarchy. It was the court of the star-gazing +King Alonso the Wise. Through a dozen centuries it was the flower +of the moun-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">208 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">tains of Castile. +Each succeeding age and race beautified and embellished it, and +each, departing, left the trace of its passage in the abiding +granite of its monuments. The Romans left the glorious aqueduct, +that work of demigods who scorned to mention it in their +histories; its mediaeval bishops bequeathed to later times their +ideas of ecclesiastical architecture; and the Arabs the science +of fortification and the industrial arts.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Its very ruin and +decay makes it only more precious to the traveller. There are +here none of the modern and commonplace evidences of life and +activity that shock the artistic sense in other towns. All is +old, moribund, and picturesque. It lies here in the heart of the +Guadarramas, lost and forgotten by the civilization of the age, +muttering in its senile dream of the glories of an older world. +It has not vitality enough to attract a railroad, and so is only +reached by a long and tiresome journey by diligence. Its solitude +is rarely intruded upon by the impertinent curious, and the red +back of Murray is a rare apparition in its winding +streets.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Yet those who come +are richly repaid. One does not quickly forget the impression +produced by the first view of the vast aqueduct, as you drive +into</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-43.jpg" alt="cd1-43.jpg" class="c53"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6">THE AQUEDUCT FROM <b>THE +MARKET, SEGOVIA</b></span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">A CASTLE IN THE AIR +209</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">the town from La +Granja. It comes upon you in an instant,--the two great ranges of +superimposed arches, over one hundred feet high, spanning the +ravine-like suburb from the outer hills to the Alcázar. +You raise your eyes from the market-place, with its dickering +crowd, from the old and squalid houses clustered like shot +rubbish at the foot of the chasm, to this grand and soaring +wonder of utilitarian architecture, with something of a fancy +that it was never made, that it has stood there since the morning +of the world. It has the lightness and the strength, the absence +of ornament and the essential beauty, the vastness and the +perfection, of a work of nature.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">It is one of those +gigantic works of Trajan, so common in that magnificent age that +Roman authors do not allude to it. It was built to bring the cool +mountain water of the Sierra Fonfria a distance of nine miles +through the hills, the gulches, and the pine forests of Valsain, +and over the open plain to the thirsty city of Segovia. The +aqueduct proper runs from the old tower of Caserón three +thousand feet to the reservoir where the water deposits its sand +and sediment, and thence begins the series of one hundred and +nineteen arches, which traverse</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">210 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">three thousand feet +more and pass the valley, the arrabal, and reach the citadel. It +is composed of great blocks of granite, so perfectly framed and +fitted that not a particle of mortar or cement is employed in the +construction.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The wonder of the +work is not so much in its vastness or its beauty as in its +tremendous solidity and duration. A portion of it had been cut +away by barbarous armies during the fifteenth century, and in the +reign of Isabella the Catholic the monk-architect of the Parral, +Juan Escovedo, the greatest builder of his day in Spain, repaired +it. These repairs have themselves twice needed repairing since +then. Marshal Ney, when he came to this portion of the monument, +exclaimed, "Here begins the work of men's hands."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The true Segovian +would hoot at you if you assigned any mortal paternity to the +aqueduct. He calls it the Devil's Bridge, and tells you this +story. The Evil One was in love with a pretty girl of the upper +town, and full of protestations of devotion. The fair Segovian +listened to him one evening, when her plump arms ached with the +work of bringing water from the ravine, and promised eyes of +favor if his Infernal Majesty would build an</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">A CASTLE IN THE AIR +211</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">aqueduct to her +door before morning. He worked all night, like the Devil, and the +maiden, opening her black eyes at sunrise, saw him putting the +last stone in the last arch, as the first ray of the sun lighted +on his shining tail. The Church, we think very unfairly, decided +that he had failed, and released the coquettish contractor from +her promise; and it is said the Devil has never trusted a +Sego-vian out of his sight again.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The bartizaned keep +of the Moorish Alcázar is perched on the western +promontory of the city that guards the meeting of the streams +Eresma and Clamores. It has been in the changes of the warring +times a palace, a fortress, a prison (where our +friend--everybody's friend--Gil Blas was once confined), and of +late years a college of artillery. In one of its rooms Alonso the +Wise studied the heavens more than was good for his orthodoxy, +and from one of its windows a lady of the court once dropped a +royal baby, of the bad blood of Trasta-mara. Henry of Trastamara +will seem more real if we connect him with fiction. He was the +son of "La Favorita," who will outlast all legitimate princesses, +in the deathless music of Donizetti.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Driving through a +throng of beggars that en-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">212 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">cumbered the +carriage wheels as grasshoppers sometimes do the locomotives on a +Western railway, we came to the fine Gothic Cathedral, built by +Gil de Ontañon, father and son, in the early part of the +sixteenth century. It is a delight to the eyes; the rich +harmonious color of the stone, the symmetry of proportion, the +profuse opulence and grave finish of the details. It was built in +that happy era of architecture when a builder of taste and +culture had all the past of Gothic art at his disposition, and +before the degrading influence of the Jesuits appeared in the +churches of Europe. Within the Cathedral is remarkably airy and +graceful in effect. A most judicious use has been made of the +exquisite salmon-colored marbles of the country in the great +altar and the pavement.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">We were met by +civil ecclesiastics of the foundation and shown the beauties and +the wonders of the place. Among much that is worthless, there is +one very impressive Descent from the Cross by Juan de Juni, of +which that excellent Mr. Madoz says "it is worthy to rank with +the best masterpieces of Raphael or--Mengs;" as if one should say +of a poet that he was equal to Shakespeare or Southey.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-44.jpg" alt="cd1-44.jpg" class="c54"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">SEGOVIA</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">A CASTLE IN THE AIR +213</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">We walked through +the cloisters and looked at the tombs. A flood of warm light +poured through the graceful arches and lit up the trees in the +garden and set the birds to singing, and made these cloisters +pleasanter to remember than they usually are. Our attendant +priest told us, with an earnest credulity that was very touching, +the story of Maria del Salto, Mary of the Leap, whose history was +staring at us from the wall. She was a Jewish lady, whose husband +had doubts of her discretion, and so threw her from a local +Tarpeian rock. As she fell she invoked the Virgin, and came down +easily, sustained, as you see in the picture, by her faith and +her petticoats.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">As we parted from +the good fathers and entered our carriages at the door of the +church, the swarm of mendicants had become an army. The word had +doubtless gone through the city of the outlandish men who had +gone into the Cathedral with whole coats, and the result was a +<i>levee en masse</i> of the needy. Every coin that was thrown to +them but increased the clamor, as it confirmed them in their idea +of the boundless wealth and munificence of the givers. We +recalled the profound thought of Emerson, "If the rich were only +as rich as the poor think them!"</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">214 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">At last we drove +desperately away through the ragged and screaming throng. We +passed by the former home of the Jeronomite monks of the Parral, +which was once called an earthly paradise, and in later years has +been a pen for swine; past crumbling convents and ruined +churches; past the charming Romanesque San Millan, girdled with +its round-arched cloisters; the granite palace of his Reverence +the Bishop of Segovia, and the elegant tower of St. Esteban, +where the Roman is dying and the Gothic is dawning; and every +step of the route is a study and a joy to the +antiquarian.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">But though enriched +by all these legacies of an immemorial past, there seems no hope, +no future for Segovia. It is as dead as the cities of the Plain. +Its spindles have rusted into silence. Its gay company is gone. +Its streets are too large for the population, and yet they swarm +with beggars. I had often heard it compared in outline to a +ship,--the sunrise astern and the prow pointing westward,--and as +we drove away that day and I looked back to the receding town, it +seemed to me like a grand hulk of some richly laden galleon, +aground on the rock that holds it, alone, abandoned to its fate +among the barren billows of the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">A CASTLE IN THE +AIR</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">215</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c20">tumbling ridges, +its crew tired out with struggling and apathetic in despair, +mocked by the finest air and the clearest sunshine that ever +shone, and gazing always forward to the new world and the new +times hidden in the rosy sunset, which they shall never +see.</span><br> +</p> + +<img src="images/cd1-45.jpg" alt="cd1-45.jpg" class="c55"> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-46.jpg" alt="cd1-46.jpg" class="c56"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">THE CITY OF THE +VISIGOTHS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">EMILIO CASTELAR +said to me one day, "Toledo is the most remarkable city in Spain. +You will find there three strata of glories,--Gothic, Arab, and +Castilian,--and an upper crust of beggars and +silence."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">I went there in the +pleasantest time of the year, the first days of June. The early +harvest was in progress, and the sunny road ran through golden +fields which were enlivened by the reapers gathering in their +grain with shining sickles. The borders of the Tagus were so cool +and fresh that it was hard to believe one was in the arid land +of</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">THE CITY OF THE +VISIGOTHS 217</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Castile. From +Madrid to Aranjuez you meet the usual landscapes of dun hillocks +and pale-blue vegetation, such as are only seen in nature in +Central Spain, and only seen in art on the matchless canvas of +Velazquez. But from the time you cross the tawny flood of the +Tagus just north of Aranjuez, the valley is gladdened by its +waters all the way to the Primate City.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">I am glad I am not +writing a guide-book, and do not feel any responsibility resting +upon me of advising the gentle reader to stop at Aranjuez or to +go by on the other side. There is a most amiable and praiseworthy +class of travellers who feel a certain moral necessity impelling +them to visit every royal abode within their reach. They always +see precisely the same things,--some thousand of gilt chairs, +some faded tapestry and marvellous satin upholstery, a room in +porcelain, and a room in imitation of some other room somewhere +else, and a picture or two by that worthy and tedious young man, +Raphael Mengs. I knew I would see all these things at Aranjuez, +and so contented myself with admiring its pretty site, its +stone-cornered brick facade, its high-shouldered French roof, and +its general air of the Place Royale, from the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">218 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">outside. The +gardens are very pleasant, and lonely enough for the most +philosophic stroller. A clever Spanish writer says of them, "They +are sombre as the thoughts of Philip II., mysterious and gallant +as the pleasures of Philip IV." To a revolutionary mind, it is a +certain pleasure to remember that this was the scene of the +<i>emeute</i> that drove Charles IV. from his throne, and the +Prince of Peace from his queen's boudoir. Ferdinand VII., the +turbulent and restless Prince of Asturias, reaped the immediate +profit of his father's abdication; but the two worthless +creatures soon called in Napoleon to decide the squabble, which +he did in his leonine way by taking the crown away from both of +them and handing it over for safe-keeping to his lieutenant +brother Joseph. Honor among thieves!--a silly proverb, as one +readily sees if he falls into their hands, or reads the history +of kings.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">If Toledo had been +built, by some caprice of enlightened power, especially for a +show city, it could not be finer in effect. In detail, it is one +vast museum. In ensemble, it stands majestic on its hills, with +its long lines of palaces and convents terraced around the rocky +slope, and on the height</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-47.jpg" alt="cd1-47.jpg" class="c57"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">THE ALCAZAR, +TOLEDO</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">THE CITY OF THE +VISIGOTHS 219</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">the soaring +steeples of a swarm of churches piercing the blue, and the huge +cube of the Alcázar crowning the topmost crest, and +domineering the scene. The magnificent zigzag road which leads up +the steep hillside from the bridge of Alcántara gives an +indefinable impression, as of the lordly ramp of some fortress of +impossible extent.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">This road is new, +and in perfect condition. But do not imagine you can judge the +city by the approaches. When your carriage has mounted the hill +and passed the evening promenade of the To-ledans, the quaint +triangular Place,--I had nearly called it Square,--"waking +laughter in indolent reviewers," the Zocodover, you are lost in +the dae-dalian windings of the true streets of Toledo, where you +can touch the walls on either side, and where two carriages could +no more pass each other than two locomotives could salute and go +by on the same track. This interesting experiment, which is so +common in our favored land, could never be tried in Toledo, as I +believe there is only one turnout in the city, a minute omnibus +with striped linen hangings at the sides, driven by a young +Castilian whose love of money is the root of much discussion when +you pay his bill. It is a most</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">220 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">remarkable +establishment. The horses can cheerfully do their mile in fifteen +or twenty minutes, but they make more row about it than a +high-pressure Mississippi steamer; and the crazy little trap is +noisier in proportion to its size than anything I have ever seen, +except perhaps an Indiana tree-toad. If you make an excursion +outside the walls, the omnibus, noise and all, is inevitable; let +it come. But inside the city you must walk; the slower the +better, for every door is a study.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">It is hard to +conceive that this was once a great capital with a population of +two hundred thousand souls. You can easily walk from one end of +the city to the other in less than half an hour, and the houses +that remain seem comfortably filled by eighteen thousand +inhabitants. But in this narrow space once swarmed that enormous +and busy multitude. The city was walled about by powerful stone +ramparts, which yet stand in all their massy perfection. So there +could have been no suburbs. This great aggregation of humanity +lived and toiled on the crests and in the wrinkles of the seven +hills we see to-day. How important were the industries of the +earlier days we can guess from the single fact that John of +Padilla, when he rose in defence</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">THE CITY OF THE +VISIGOTHS 221</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">of municipal +liberty in the time of Charles V., drew in one day from the +teeming workshops twenty thousand fighting men. He met the usual +fate of all Spanish patriots, shameful and cruel death. His +palace was razed to the ground. Successive governments, in +shifting fever-fits of liberalism and absolutism, have set up and +pulled down his statue. But his memory is loved and honored, and +the example of this noblest of the comuneros impresses powerfully +to-day the ardent young minds of the new Spain.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Your first walk is +of course to the Cathedral, the Primate Church of the kingdom. +Besides its ecclesiastical importance, it is well worthy of +notice in itself. It is one of the purest specimens of Gothic +architecture in existence, and is kept in an admirable state of +preservation. Its situation is not the most favorable. It is +approached by a network of descending streets, all narrow and +winding, as streets were always built under the intelligent rule +of the Moors. They preferred to be cool in summer and sheltered +in winter, rather than to lay out great deserts of boulevards, +the haunts of sunstroke and pneumonia. The site of the Cathedral +was chosen from strategic reasons by St.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">222 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Eugene, who built +there his first Episcopal Church. The Moors made a mosque of it +when they conquered Castile, and the fastidious piety of St. +Ferdinand would not permit him to worship in a shrine thus +profaned. He tore down the old church and laid, in 1227, the +foundations of this magnificent structure, which was two +centuries after his death in building. There is, however, great +unity of purpose and execution in this Cathedral, due doubtless +to the fact that the architect Pérez gave fifty years of +his long life to the superintendence of the early work. Inside +and outside it is marked by a grave and harmonious majesty. The +great western facade is enriched with three splendid +portals,--the side ones called the doors of Hell and Judgment; +and the central a beautiful ogival arch divided into two smaller +ones, and adorned with a lavish profusion of delicately +sculptured figures of saints and prophets; on the chaste and +severe cornice above, a group of spirited busts represents the +Last Supper. There are five other doors to the temple, of which +the door of the Lions is the finest, and just beside it a heavy +Ionic portico in the most detestable taste indicates the feeling +and culture that survived in the reign of Charles IV.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-48.jpg" alt="cd1-48.jpg" class="c58"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">THE CATHEDRAL OF +TOLEDO</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">THE CITY OF THE +VISIGOTHS 223</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">To the north of the +west facade rises the massive tower. It is not among the tallest +in the world, being three hundred and twenty-four feet high, but +is very symmetrical and impressive. In the preservation of its +pyramidal purpose it is scarcely inferior to that most consummate +work, the tower of St. Stephen's in Vienna. It is composed of +three superimposed structures, gradually diminishing in solidity +and massiveness from the square base to the high-springing +octagonal spire, garlanded with thorny crowns. It is balanced at +the south end of the facade by the pretty cupola and lantern of +the Mozarabic Chapel, the work of the Greek +Theotocopouli.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">But we soon grow +tired of the hot glare of June, and pass in a moment into the +cool twilight vastness of the interior, refreshing to body and +soul. Five fine naves, with eighty-four pillars formed each of +sixteen graceful columns,--the entire edifice measuring four +hundred feet in length and two hundred feet in breadth,--a grand +and shadowy temple grove of marble and granite. At all times the +light is of an unearthly softness and purity, toned by the +exquisite windows and rosaces. But as evening draws on, you +should linger till</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">224 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">the sacristan grows +peremptory, to watch the gorgeous glow of the western sunlight on +the blazing roses of the portals, and the marvellous play of rich +shadows and faint gray lights in the eastern chapels, where the +grand aisles sweep in their perfect curves around the high altar. +A singular effect is here created by the gilded organ pipes +thrust out horizontally from the choir. When the powerful choral +anthems of the church peal out over the kneeling multitude, it +requires little fancy to imagine them the golden trumpets of +concealed archangels, who would be quite at home in that +incomparable choir.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">If one should speak +of all the noteworthy things you meet in this Cathedral, he would +find himself in danger of following in the footsteps of Mr. +Parro, who wrote a handbook of Toledo, in which seven hundred and +forty-five pages are devoted to a hasty sketch of the basilica. +For five hundred years enormous wealth and fanatical piety have +worked together and in rivalry to beautify this spot. The +boundless riches of the Church and the boundless superstition of +the laity have left their traces here in every generation in +forms of magnificence and beauty. Each of the +chapels--and</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-49.jpg" alt="cd1-49.jpg" class="c59"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">THE GILDED ORGAN +PIPES</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">THE CITY OF THE +VISIGOTHS 225</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">there are +twenty-one of them--is a separate masterpiece in its way. The +finest are those of Santiago and St. Ildefonso,--the former built +by the famous Constable Alvaro de Luna as a burial-place for +himself and family, and where he and his wife lie in storied +marble; and the other commemorating that celebrated visit of the +Virgin to the bishop, which is the favorite theme of the artists +and ecclesiastical gossips of Spain.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">There was probably +never a morning call which gave rise to so much talk. It was not +the first time the Virgin had come to Toledo. This was always a +favorite excursion of hers. She had come from time to time, +escorted by St. Peter, St. Paul, and St. James. But on the +morning in question, which was not long after Bishop Ildefonso +had written his clever treatise, "De Virginitate Stae Mariae," +the Queen of Heaven came down to matin prayers, and, taking the +bishop's seat, listened to the sermon with great edification. +After service she presented him with a nice new chasuble, as his +own was getting rather shabby, made of "cloth of heaven," in +token of her appreciation of his spirited pamphlet in her +defence. This chasuble still exists in a chest in Asturias. If +you</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">226 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">open the chest, you +will not see it; but this only proves the truth of the miracle, +for the chroniclers say the sacred vestment is invisible to +mortal eyes.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">But we have another +and more palpable proof of the truth of the history. The slab of +marble on which the feet of the celestial visitor alighted is +still preserved in the Cathedral in a tidy chapel built on the +very spot where the avatar took place. The slab is enclosed in +red jasper and guarded by an iron grating, and above it these +words of the Psalmist are engraved in the stone, <i>Adorabimus in +loco ubi steterunt pedes ejus.</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">This story is cut +in marble and carved in wood and drawn upon brass and painted +upon canvas, in a thousand shapes and forms all over Spain. You +see in the Museum at Madrid a picture by Murillo devoted to this +idle fancy of a cunning or dreaming priest. The subject was +unworthy of the painter, and the result is what might have been +expected,--a picture of trivial and mundane beauty, without the +least suggestion of spirituality.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">But there can be no +doubt of the serious, solemn earnestness with which the worthy +Castilians from that day to this believe the romance. They came +up in groups and families, touching their fingers to</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">THE CITY OF THE +VISIGOTHS 227</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">the sacred slab and +kissing them reverentially with muttered prayers. A father would +take the first kiss himself, and pass his consecrated finger +around among his awe-struck babes, who were too brief to reach to +the grating. Even the aged verger who showed us the shrine, who +was so frail and so old that we thought he might be a ghost +escaped from some of the mediaeval tombs in the neighborhood, +never passed that pretty white-and-gold chapel without sticking +in his thumb and pulling out a blessing.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">A few feet from +this worship-worn stone, a circle drawn on one of the marble +flags marks the spot where Santa Leocadia also appeared to this +same favored Ildefonso and made her compliments on his pamphlet. +Was ever author so happy in his subject and his gentle readers? +The good bishop evidently thought the story of this second +apparition might be considered rather a heavy draught on the +credulity of his flock, so he whipped out a convenient knife and +cut off a piece of her saint-ship's veil, which clinched the +narrative and struck doubters dumb. That great king and crazy +relic-hunter, Philip II., saw this rag in his time with profound +emotion,--this tiger heart, who could</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">228 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">order the murder of +a thousand innocent beings without a pang.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">There is another +chapel in this Cathedral which preaches forever its silent +condemnation of Spanish bigotry to deaf ears. This is the +Mozarabic Chapel, sacred to the celebration of the early +Christian rite of Spain. During the three centuries of Moorish +domination the enlightened and magnanimous conquerors guaranteed +to those Christians who remained within their lines the free +exercise of all their rights, including perfect freedom of +worship. So that side by side the mosque and the church +worshipped God each in its own way without fear or wrong. But +when Alonso VI. recaptured the city in the eleventh century, he +wished to establish uniformity of worship, and forbade the use of +the ancient liturgy in Toledo. That which the heathen had +respected the Catholic outraged. The great Cardinal Ximenez +restored the primitive rite and devoted this charming chapel to +its service. How ill a return was made for Moorish tolerance we +see in the infernal treatment they afterwards received from king +and Church. They made them choose between conversion and death. +They embraced Christianity to save their</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">THE CITY OF THE +VISIGOTHS 229</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">lives. Then the +priests said, "Perhaps this conversion is not genuine! Let us +send the heathen away out of our sight." One million of the best +citizens of Spain were thus torn from their homes and landed +starving on the wild African coast. And Te Deums were sung in the +churches for this triumph of Catholic unity. From that hour Spain +has never prospered. It seems as if she were lying ever since +under the curse of these breaking hearts.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Passing by a world +of artistic beauties which never tire the eyes, but soon would +tire the chronicler and reader, stepping over the broad bronze +slab in the floor which covers the dust of the haughty primate +Porto Carrero, but which bears neither name nor date, only this +inscription of arrogant humility, HIC JACET PULVIS CINIS ET +NIHIL, we walk into the verdurous and cheerful Gothic cloisters. +They occupy the site of the ancient Jewish markets, and the +zealous prelate Tenorio, cousin to the great lady's man Don Juan, +could think of no better way of acquiring the ground than that of +stirring up the mob to burn the houses of the heretics. A fresco +that adorns the gate explains the means employed, adding insult +to the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">230 CASTILIAN DAYS +|</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">old injury. It is a +picture of a beautiful child hanging upon a cross; a +fiendish-looking Jew, on a ladder beside him, holds in his hand +the child's heart, which he has just taken from his bleeding +breast; he holds the dripping knife in his teeth. This brutal +myth was used for centuries with great effect by the priesthood +upon the mob whenever they wanted a Jew's money or his blood. +Even to-day the old poison has not lost its power. This very +morning I heard under my window loud and shrill voices. I looked +out and saw a group of brown and ragged women, with babies in +their arms, discussing the news from Madrid. The Protestants, +they said, had begun to steal Catholic children. They talked +themselves into a fury. Their elf-locks hung about their fierce +black eyes. The sinews of their lean necks worked tensely in +their voluble rage. Had they seen our mild missionary at that +moment, whom all men respect and all children instinctively love, +they would have torn him in pieces in their Maenad fury, and +would have thought they were doing their duty as mothers and +Catholics.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">This absurd and +devilish charge was seriously made in a Madrid journal, the organ +of the Mod-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-50.jpg" alt="cd1-50.jpg" class="c60"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">THE ZOCODOVER, +TOLEDO</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">THE CITY OF THE +VISIGOTHS 231</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">erates, and caused +great fermentation for several days, street rows, and debates in +the Cortes, before the excitement died away. Last summer, in the +old Murcian town of Lorca, an English gentleman, who had been +several weeks in the place, was attacked and nearly killed by a +mob, who insisted that he was engaged in the business of stealing +children, and using their spinal marrow for lubricating telegraph +wires! What a picture of blind and savage ignorance is here +presented! It reminds us of that sad and pitiful "blood-bath +revolt" of Paris, where the wretched mob rose against the +wretched tyrant Louis XV., accusing him of bathing in the blood +of children to restore his own wasted and corrupted +energies.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Toledo is a city +where you should eschew guides and trust implicitly to chance in +your wanderings. You can never be lost; the town is so small that +a short walk always brings you to the river or the wall, and +there you can take a new departure. If you do not know where you +are going, you have every moment the delight of some unforeseen +pleasure. There is not a street in Toledo that is not rich in +treasures of architecture,--hovels that once were marvels of +building, balconies of</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">232</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">curiously wrought +iron, great doors with sculptured posts and lintels, with +gracefully finished hinges, and studded with huge nails whose +fanciful heads are as large as billiard balls. Some of these are +still handsome residences, but most have fallen into neglect and +abandonment. You may find a beggar installed in the ruined palace +of a Moorish prince, a cobbler at work in the pleasure-house of a +Castilian conqueror. The graceful carvings are mutilated and +destroyed, the delicate arabesques are smothered and hidden under +a triple coat of whitewash. The most beautiful Moorish house in +the city, the so-called Taller del Moro, where the grim governor +of Huesca invited four hundred influential gentlemen of the +province to a political dinner, and cut off all their heads as +they entered (if we may believe the chronicle, which we do not), +is now empty and rapidly going to ruin. The exquisite panelling +of the walls, the endlessly varied stucco work that seems to have +been wrought by the deft fingers of ingenious fairies, is +shockingly broken and marred. Gigantic cacti look into the +windows from the outer court. A gay pomegranate-tree flings its +scarlet blossoms in on the ruined floor. Rude little birds have +built their nests in</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">THE CITY OF THE +VISIGOTHS 233</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">the beautiful +fretted rafters, and flutter in and out as busy as brokers. But +of all the feasting and loving and plotting these lovely walls +beheld in that strange age that seems like fable now,--the vivid, +intelligent, scientific, tolerant age of the Moors,--even the +memory has perished utterly and forever.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">We strolled away +aimlessly from this beautiful desolation, and soon came out upon +the bright and airy Paseo del Transito. The afternoon sunshine +lay warm on the dull brown suburb, but a breeze blew freshly +through the dark river-gorge, and we sat upon the stone benches +bordering the bluff and gave ourselves up to the scene. To the +right were the ruins of the Roman bridge and the Moorish mills; +to the left the airy arch of San Martin's bridge spanned the +bounding torrent, and far beyond stretched the vast expanse of +the green valley refreshed by the river, and rolling in rank +waves of verdure to the blue hills of Guadalupe. Below us on the +slippery rocks that lay at the foot of the sheer cliffs, some +luxurious fishermen reclined, idly watching their idle lines. The +hills stretched away, ragged and rocky, dotted with solitary +towers and villas.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">234</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">A squad of beggars +rapidly gathered, attracted by the gracious faces of Las +Señoras. Begging seems almost the only regular industry of +Toledo. Besides the serious professionals, who are real artists +in studied misery and ingenious deformity, all the children in +town occasionally leave their marbles and their leap-frog to turn +an honest penny by amateur mendicancy.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">A chorus of piteous +whines went up. But La Señora was firm. She checked the +ready hands of the juveniles. "Children should not be encouraged +to pursue this wretched life. We should give only to blind men, +because here is a great and evident affliction; and to old women, +because they look so lonely about the boots." The exposition was +so subtle and logical that it admitted no reply. The old women +and the blind men shuffled away with their pennies, and we began +to chaff the sturdy and rosy children.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">A Spanish beggar +can bear anything but banter. He is a keen physiognomist, and +selects his victims with unerring acumen. If you storm or scowl +at him, he knows he is making you uncomfortable, and hangs on +like a burr. But if you laugh at him, with good humor, he is +disarmed. A friend of mine</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">THE CITY OF THE +VISIGOTHS 235</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">reduced to +confusion one of the most unabashed mendicants in Castile by +replying to his whining petition, politely and with a beaming +smile, "No, thank you. I never eat them." The beggar is far from +considering his employment a degrading one. It is recognized by +the Church, and the obligation of this form of charity especially +inculcated. The average Spaniard regards it as a sort of tax to +be as readily satisfied as a toll-fee. He will often stop and +give a beggar a cent, and wait for the change in maravedises. One +day, at the railway station, a muscular rogue approached me and +begged for alms. I offered him my <i>sac-de-nuit</i> to carry a +block or two. He drew himself up proudly and said, "I beg your +pardon, sir; I am no Gallician." An old woman came up with a +basket on her arm. "Can it be possible in this far country," said +La Señora, "or are these--yes, they are, deliberate +peanuts." With a penny we bought unlimited quantities of this +levelling edible, and with them the devoted adherence of the aged +merchant. She immediately took charge of our education. We must +see Santa Maria la Blanca,--it was a beautiful thing; so was the +Transito. Did we see those men and women grubbing in the +hillside? They</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7"><b>236</b></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">were digging bones +to sell at the station. Where did the bones come from? Quien +sabe? Those dust-heaps have been there since King Wamba. Come, we +must go and see the Churches of Mary before it grew dark. And the +zealous old creature marched away with us to the synagogue built +by Samuel Ben Levi, treasurer to that crowned panther, Peter the +Cruel. This able financier built this fine temple to the God of +his fathers out of his own purse. He was murdered for his money +by his ungrateful lord, and his synagogue stolen by the Church. +It now belongs to the order of Cala-trava.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">But the other and +older synagogue, now called Santa Maria la Blanca, is much more +interesting. It stands in the same quarter, the suburb formerly +occupied by the industrious and thriving Hebrews of the Middle +Ages until the stupid zeal of the Catholic kings drove them out +of Spain. The synagogue was built in the ninth century under the +enlightened domination of the Moors. At the slaughter of the Jews +in 1405 it became a church. It has passed through varying +fortunes since then, having been hospital, hermitage, stable, and +warehouse; but it is now under the care of the provin-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">THE CITY OF THE +VISIGOTHS 237</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">cial committee of +art, and is somewhat decently restored. Its architecture is +altogether Moorish. It has three aisles with thick octagonal +columns supporting heavy horseshoe arches. The spandrels are +curiously adorned with rich circular stucco figures. The soil you +tread is sacred, for it was brought from Zion long before the +Crusades; the cedar rafters above you preserve the memory and the +odors of Lebanon.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">A little farther +west, on a fine hill overlooking the river, in the midst of the +ruined palaces of the early kings, stands the beautiful votive +church of San Juan de los Reyes. It was built by Ferdinand and +Isabella, before the Columbus days, to commemorate a victory over +their neighbors the Portuguese. During a prolonged absence of the +king, the pious queen, wishing to prepare him a pleasant +surprise, instead of embroidering a pair of impracticable +slippers as a faithful young wife would do nowadays, finished +this exquisite church by setting at work upon it some regiments +of stone-cutters and builders. It is not difficult to imagine the +beauty of the structure that greeted the king on his welcome +home. For even now, after the storms of four centuries have +beaten upon it, and the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">238 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">malignant hands of +invading armies have used their utmost malice against it, it is +still a won-drously perfect work of the Gothic +inspiration.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">We sat on the +terrace benches to enjoy the light and graceful lines of the +building, the delicately ornate door, the unique drapery of iron +chains which the freed Christians hung here when delivered from +the hands of the Moors. A lovely child, with pensive blue eyes +fringed with long lashes, and the slow sweet smile of a Madonna, +sat near us and sang to a soft, monotonous air a war-song of the +Carlists. Her beauty soon attracted the artistic eyes of La +Señora, and we learned she was named Francisca, and her +baby brother, whose flaxen head lay heavily on her shoulder, was +called Jesus Mary. She asked, Would we like to go into the +church? She knew the sacristan and would go for him. She ran away +like a fawn, the tow head of little Jesus tumbling dangerously +about. She reappeared in a moment; she had disposed of mi +niño, as she called it, and had found the sacristan. This +personage was rather disappointing. A sacristan should be aged +and mouldy, clothed in black of a decent shabbiness. This was a +Toledan swell in a velvet shooting-jacket, and yellow peg-top +trousers. How-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-51.jpg" alt="cd1-51.jpg" class="c61"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">CLOISTERS, SAN JUAN DE +LOS REYES</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">THE CITY OF THE +VISIGOTHS 239</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">ever, he had the +wit to confine himself to turning keys, and so we gradually +recovered from the shock of the shooting-jacket.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The church forms +one great nave, divided into four vaults enriched with wonderful +stone lace-work. A superb frieze surrounds the entire nave, +bearing in great Gothic letters an inscription narrating the +foundation of the church. Everywhere the arms of Castile and +Arragon, and the wedded ciphers of the Catholic kings. Statues of +heralds start unexpectedly out from the face of the pillars. Fine +as the church is, we cannot linger here long. The glory of San +Juan is its cloisters. It may challenge the world to show +anything so fine in the latest bloom and last development of +Gothic art. One of the galleries is in ruins,--a sad witness of +the brutality of armies. But the three others are enough to show +how much of beauty was possible in that final age of pure Gothic +building. The arches bear a double garland of leaves, of flowers, +and of fruits, and among them are ramping and writhing and +playing every figure of bird or beast or monster that man has +seen or poet imagined. There are no two arches alike, and yet a +most beautiful harmony pervades them</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">240 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">all. In some the +leaves are in profile, in others delicately spread upon the +graceful columns and every vein displayed. I saw one window where +a stone monkey sat reading his prayers, gowned and cowled,--an +odd caprice of the tired sculptor. There is in this infinite +variety of detail a delight that ends in something like fatigue. +You cannot help feeling that this was naturally and logically the +end of Gothic art. It had run its course. There was nothing left +but this feverish quest of variety. It was in danger, after +having gained such divine heights of invention, of degenerating +into prettinesses and affectation.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">But how +marvellously fine it was at last! One must see it, as in these +unequalled cloisters, half ruined, silent, and deserted, bearing +with something of conscious dignity the blows of time and the +ruder wrongs of men, to appreciate fully its proud superiority to +all the accidents of changing taste and modified culture. It is +only the truest art that can bear that test. The fanes of Paestum +will always be more beautiful even than the magical shore on +which they stand. The Parthenon, fixed like a battered coronet on +the brow of the Acropolis, will always be the loveliest sight +that</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-52.jpg" alt="cd1-52.jpg" class="c62"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font1">INTERIOR OF SAN JUAN, +TOLEDO</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">THE CITY OF THE +VISIGOTHS 241</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Greece can offer to +those who come sailing in from the blue Aegean. It is scarcely +possible to imagine a condition of thought or feeling in which +these master-works shall seem quaint or old-fashioned. They +appeal, now and always, with that calm power of perfection, to +the heart and eyes of every man born of woman.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">The cloisters +enclose a little garden just enough neglected to allow the lush +dark ivy, the passionflowers, and the spreading oleanders to do +their best in beautifying the place, as men have done their worst +in marring it. The clambering vines seem trying to hide the scars +of their hardly less perfect copies. Every arch is adorned with a +soft and delicious drapery of leaves and tendrils; the fair and +outraged child of art is cherished and caressed by the gracious +and bountiful hands of Mother Nature.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">As we came away, +little Francisca plucked one of the five-pointed leaves of the +passion-flowers and gave it to La Señora, saying +reverentially, "This is the Hand of Our Blessed Lord!"</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">The sun was +throned, red as a bacchanal king, upon the purple hills, as we +descended the rocky declivity and crossed the bridge of St. +Martin.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">242 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Our little Toledan +maid came with us, talking and singing incessantly, like a +sweet-voiced starling. We rested on the farther side and looked +back at the towering city, glorious in the sunset, its spires +aflame, its long lines of palace and convent clear in the level +rays, its ruins softened in the gathering shadows, the lofty +bridge hanging transfigured over the glowing river. Before us the +crumbling walls and turrets of the Gothic kings ran down from the +bluff to the water-side, its terrace overlooking the baths where, +for his woe, Don Roderick saw Count Julian's daughter under the +same inflammatory circumstances as those in which, from a Judaean +housetop, Don David beheld Captain Uriah's wife. There is a great +deal of human nature abroad in the world in all ages.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Little Francisca +kept on chattering. "That is St. Martin's bridge. A girl jumped +into the water last year. She was not a lady. She was in service. +She was tired of living because she was in love. They found her +three weeks afterwards; but, Santísima Maria! she was good +for nothing then."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Our little maid was +too young to have sympathy for kings or servant girls who die for +love. She</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">THE CITY OF THE +VISIGOTHS 243</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">was a pretty +picture as she sat there, her blue eyes and Madonna face turned +to the rosy west, singing in her sweet child's voice her fierce +little song of sedition and war:--</span><br> +</p> + +<blockquote>"Arriba los valientes!<br> + Abajo tiranía!<br> + Pronto llegara el dia<br> + De la Restauracion.<br> + <br> + Carlistas á caballo!<br> + Soldados en Campaña!<br> +Viva el Rey de España,<br> +Don Carlos de Borbon!"<br> +</blockquote> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">I cannot enumerate +the churches of Toledo,--you find them in every street and +by-way. In the palmy days of the absolute theocracy this narrow +space contained more than a hundred churches and chapels. The +province was gnawed by the cancer of sixteen monasteries of monks +and twice as many convents of nuns, all crowded within these city +walls. Fully one half the ground of the city was covered by +religious buildings and mortmain property. In that age, when +money meant ten times what it signifies now, the rent-roll of the +Church in Toledo was forty millions of reals. There are even yet +portions of the town where you find</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">244 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">nothing but +churches and convents. The grass grows green in the silent +streets. You hear nothing but the chime of bells and the faint +echoes of masses. You see on every side bolted doors and barred +windows, and, gliding over the mossy pavements, the +stealthy-stepping, long-robed priests.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">I will only mention +two more churches, and both of these converts from heathendom; +both of them dedicated to San Cristo, for in the democracy of the +calendar the Saviour is merely a saint, and reduced to the level +of the rest. One is the old pretorian temple of the Romans, which +was converted by King Sizebuto into a Christian church in the +seventh century. It is a curious structure in brick and mortar, +with an apsis and an odd arrangement of round arches sunken in +the outer wall and still deeper pointed ones. It is famed as the +resting-place of Saints Ildefonso and Leocadia, whom we have met +before. The statue of the latter stands over the door graceful +and pensive enough for a heathen muse. The little cloisters +leading to the church are burial vaults. On one side lie the +canonical dead and on the other the laity, with bright marble +tablets and gilt inscriptions. In the court outside I noticed a +flat stone marked <i>Ossua-</i></span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">THE CITY OF THE +VISIGOTHS 245</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13"><i>rium.</i> The +sacristan told me this covered the pit where the nameless dead +reposed, and when the genteel people in the gilt marble vaults +neglected to pay their annual rent, they were taken out and +tumbled in to moulder with the common clay.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">This San Cristo de +la Vega, St. Christ of the Plain, stands on the wide flat below +the town, where you find the greater portion of the Roman +remains. Heaps of crumbling composite stretched in an oval form +over the meadow mark the site of the great circus. Green turf and +fields of waving grain occupy the ground where once a Latin city +stood. The Romans built on the plain. The Goths, following their +instinct of isolation, fixed their dwelling on the steep and +rugged rock. The rapid Tagus girdling the city like a horseshoe +left only the declivity to the west to be defended, and the ruins +of King Wamba's wall show with what jealous care that work was +done. But the Moors, after they captured the city, apparently did +little for its defence. A great suburb grew up in the course of +ages outside the wall, and when the Christians recaptured Toledo +in 1085, the first care of Alonso VI. was to build another wall, +this time nearer the foot of the hill, taking inside all the +accretion of</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">246 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">these years. From +that day to this that wall has held Toledo. The city has never +reached, perhaps will never reach, the base of the steep rock on +which it stands.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">When King Alonso +stormed the city, his first thought, in the busy half hour that +follows victory, was to find some convenient place to say his +prayers. Chance led him to a beautiful little Moorish mosque or +oratory near the superb Puerta del Sol. He entered, gave thanks, +and hung up his shield as a votive offering. This is the Church +of San Cristo de la Luz. The shield of Alonso hangs there defying +time for eight centuries,--a golden cross on a red field,--and +the exquisite oratory, not much larger than a child's toy-house, +is to-day one of the most charming specimens of Moorish art in +Spain. Four square pillars support the roof, which is divided +into five equal "half-orange" domes, each different from the +others and each equally fascinating in its unexpected simplicity +and grace. You cannot avoid a feeling of personal kindliness and +respect for the refined and genial spirit who left this elegant +legacy to an alien race and a hostile creed.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The Military +College of Santa Cruz is one of the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">THE CITY OF THE +VISIGOTHS 247</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">most precious +specimens extant of those somewhat confused but beautiful results +of the transition from florid Gothic to the Renaissance. The +plateresque is young and modest, and seeks to please in this +splendid monument by allying the innovating forms with the +traditions of a school outgrown. There is an exquisite and +touching reminiscence of the Gothic in the superb portal and the +matchless group of the Invention of the Cross. All this fine +facade is by that true and genuine artist, Enrique de Egas, the +same who carved the grand Gate of the Lions, for which may the +gate of paradise be open to him.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">The inner court is +surrounded by two stories of airy arcades, supported by slim +Corinthian columns. In one corner is the most elaborate staircase +in Spain. All the elegance and fancy of Arab and Renaissance art +have been lavished upon this masterly work.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Santa Cruz was +built for a hospital by that haughty Cardinal Mendoza, the +Tertius Rex of Ferdinand and Isabella. It is now occupied by the +military school, which receives six hundred cadets. They are +under the charge of an inspector-general and a numerous staff of +professors. They pay forty</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">248 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">cents a day for +their board. The instruction is gratuitous and comprehends a +curriculum almost identical with that of West Point. It occupies, +however, only three years.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The most +considerable Renaissance structure in Toledo is the Royal +Alcázar. It covers with its vast bulk the highest hilltop +in the city. From the earliest antiquity this spot has been +occupied by a royal palace or fortress. But the present structure +was built by Charles V. and completed by Herrera for Philip II. +Its north and south facades are very fine. The Alcázar +seems to have been marked by fate. The Portuguese burned it in +the last century, and Charles III. restored it just in time for +the French to destroy it anew. Its indestructible walls alone +remain. Now, after many years of ruinous neglect, the government +has begun the work of restoration. The vast quadrangle is one +mass of scaffolding and plaster dust. The grand staircase is +almost finished again. In the course of a few years we may expect +to see the Alcázar in a state worthy of its name and +history. We would hope it might never again shelter a king. They +have had their day there. Their line goes back so far into the +mists of time that its</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">THE CITY OF THE +VISIGOTHS 249</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">beginning eludes +our utmost search. The Roman drove out the unnamed chiefs of +Iberia. The fair-haired Goth dispossessed the Italian. The Berber +destroyed the Gothic monarchy. Castile and León fought +their way down inch by inch through three centuries from +Covadonga to Toledo, halfway in time and territory to Granada and +the Midland Sea. And since then how many royal feet have trodden +this breezy crest,--Sanchos and Henrys and Ferdinands,--the line +broken now and then by a usurping uncle or a fratricide +brother,--a red-handed bastard of Trastamara, a star-gazing +Alonso, a plotting and praying Charles, and, after Philip, the +dwindling scions of Austria and the nullities of Bourbon. This +height has known as well the rustle of the trailing robes of +queens,--Berenguela, Isabel the Catholic, and Juana,--Crazy Jane. +It was the prison of the widow of Philip IV. and mother of +Charles II. What wonder if her life left much to be desired? With +such a husband and such a son, she had no memories nor +hopes.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">The kings have had +a long day here. They did some good in their time. But the world +has outgrown them, and the people, here as elsewhere, +is</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">250 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">coming of age. This +Alcázar is built more strongly than any dynasty. It will +make a glorious school-house when the repairs are finished and +the Republic is established, and then may both last +forever!</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">One morning at +sunrise, I crossed the ancient bridge of Alcántara, and +climbed the steep hill east of the river to the ruined castle of +San Cervantes, perched on a high, bold rock, which guards the +river and overlooks the valley. Near as it is to the city, it +stands entirely alone. The instinct of aggregation is so powerful +in this people that the old towns have no environs, no houses +sprinkled in the outlying country, like modern cities. Every one +must be huddled inside the walls. If a solitary house, like this +castle, is built without, it must be in itself an impregnable +fortress. This fine old ruin, in obedience to this instinct of +jealous distrust, has but one entrance, and that so narrow that +Sir John Falstaff would have been embarrassed to accept its +hospitalities. In the shade of the broken walls, grass-grown and +gay with scattered poppies, I looked at Toledo, fresh and clear +in the early day. On the extreme right lay the new spick-and-span +bull-ring, then the great</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-53.jpg" alt="cd1-53.jpg" class="c63"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5">PORTA VIRAGIA, +TOLEDO</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">THE CITY OF THE +VISIGOTHS 251</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">hospice and Chapel +of St. John the Baptist, the Convent of the Immaculate +Conception, and next, the Latin cross of the Chapel of Santa +Cruz, whose beautiful fagade lay soft in shadow; the huge +arrogant bulk of the Alcázar loomed squarely before me, +hiding half the view; to the left glittered the slender spire of +the Cathedral, holding up in the pure air that emblem of august +resignation, the triple crown of thorns; then a crowd of cupolas, +ending at last near the river-banks with the sharp angular mass +of San Cristóbal. The field of vision was filled with +churches and chapels, with the palaces of the king and the monk. +Behind me the waste lands went rolling away untilled to the brown +Toledo mountains. Below, the vigorous current of the Tagus +brawled over its rocky bed, and the distant valley showed in its +deep rich green what vitality there was in those waters if they +were only used.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">A quiet, as of a +plague-stricken city, lay on Toledo. A few mules wound up the +splendid roads with baskets of vegetables. A few listless +fishermen were preparing their lines. The chimes of sleepy bells +floated softly out on the morning air. They seemed like the +requiem of municipal</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font9">252</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">life and activity +slain centuries ago by the crozier and the crown.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Thank Heaven, that +double despotism is wounded to death. As Chesterfield predicted, +before the first muttering of the thunders of '89, "the trades of +king and priest have lost half their value." With the decay of +this unrighteous power, the false, unwholesome activity it +fostered has also disappeared. There must be years of toil and +leanness, years perhaps of struggle and misery, before the new +genuine life of the people springs up from beneath the dead and +withered rubbish of temporal and spiritual tyranny. Freedom is an +angel whose blessing is gained by wrestling.</span><br> +</p> + +<img src="images/cd1-54.jpg" alt="cd1-54.jpg" class="c64"> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-55.jpg" alt="cd1-55.jpg" class="c65"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">THE ESCORIAL</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">THE only battle in +which Philip II. was ever engaged was that of St. Quentin, and +the only part he took in that memorable fight was to listen to +the thunder of the captains and the shouting afar off, and pray +with great unction and fervor to various saints of his +acquaintance and particularly to St. Lawrence of the Gridiron, +who, being the celestial officer of the day, was supposed to have +unlimited authority, and to whom he was therefore profuse in +vows. While Egmont and his stout Flemings were capturing the +Constable Montmorency and cutting his army in pieces, +this</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">254 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">young and +chivalrous monarch was beating his breast and pattering his +panic-stricken prayers. As soon as the victory was won, however, +he lost his nervousness, and divided the entire credit of it +between himself and his saints. He had his picture painted in +full armor, as he appeared that day, and sent it to his doting +spouse, Bloody Mary of England. He even thought he had gained +glory enough, and while his father, the emperor-monk, was +fiercely asking the messenger who brought the news of victory to +Yuste, "Is my son at Paris?" the prudent Philip was making a +treaty of peace, by which his son Don Carlos was to marry the +Princess Elizabeth of France. But Mary obligingly died at this +moment, and the stricken widower thought he needed consolation +more than his boy, and so married the pretty princess +himself.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">He always prided +himself greatly on the battle of St. Quentin, and probably soon +came to believe he had done yeoman service there. The childlike +credulity of the people is a great temptation to kings. It is +very likely that after the coup-d'état of December, the +trembling puppet who had sat shivering over his fire in the +palace of the Elysée while Morny and Fleury and St. Arnaud +and the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">THE ESCORIAL +255</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">rest of the cool +gamblers were playing their last desperate stake on that fatal +night, really persuaded himself that the work was his, and that +<i>he</i> had saved society. That the fly should imagine he is +moving the coach is natural enough; but that the horses, and the +wooden lumbering machine, and the passengers should take it for +granted that the light gilded insect is carrying them all,--there +is the true miracle.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">We must confess to +a special fancy for Philip II. He was so true a king, so vain, so +superstitious, so mean and cruel, it is probable so great a king +never lived. Nothing could be more royal than the way he +distributed his gratitude for the victory on St. Lawrence's day. +To Count Egmont, whose splendid courage and loyalty gained him +the battle, he gave ignominy and death on the scaffold; and to +exhibit a gratitude to a myth which he was too mean to feel to a +man, he built to San Lorenzo that stupendous mass of granite +which is to-day the visible demonstration of the might and the +weakness of Philip and his age.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">He called it the +Monastery of San Lorenzo el Real, but the nomenclature of the +great has no authority with the people. It was built on a +site</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">256 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">once covered with +cinder-heaps from a long abandoned iron-mine, and so it was +called in common speech the Escorial. The royal seat of San +Ildefonso can gain from the general public no higher name than La +Granja, the Farm. The great palace of Catharine de Medici, the +home of three dynasties, is simply the Tuileries, the +Tile-fields. You cannot make people call the White House the +Executive Mansion. A merchant named Pitti built a palace in +Florence, and though kings and grand dukes have inhabited it +since, it is still the Pitti. There is nothing so democratic as +language. You may alter a name by trick when force is unavailing. +A noble lord in Segovia, following the custom of the good old +times, once murdered a Jew, and stole his house. It was a pretty +residence, but the skeleton in his closet was that the stupid +commons would not call it anything but "the Jew's house." He +killed a few of them for it, but that did not serve. At last, by +advice of his confessor, he had the facade ornamented with +projecting knobs of stucco, and the work was done. It is called +to this day "the knobby house."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The conscience of +Philip did not permit a long delay in the accomplishment of his +vow. Charles</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">THE ESCORIAL +257</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">V. had charged him +in his will to build a mausoleum for the kings of the Austrian +race. He bound the two obligations in one, and added a third +destination to the enormous pile he contemplated. It should be a +palace as well as a monastery and a royal charnel-house. He chose +the most appropriate spot in Spain for the erection of the most +cheerless monument in existence. He had fixed his capital at +Madrid because it was the dreariest town in Spain, and to envelop +himself in a still profounder desolation, he built the Escorial +out of sight of the city, on a bleak, bare hillside, swept by the +glacial gales of the Guadarrama, parched by the vertical suns of +summer, and cursed at all seasons with the curse of barrenness. +Before it towers the great chain of mountains separating Old and +New Castile. Behind it the chilled winds sweep down to the Madrid +plateau, over rocky hillocks and involved ravines,--a scene in +which probably no man ever took pleasure except the royal recluse +who chose it for his home.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">John Baptist of +Toledo laid the corner-stone on an April day of 1563, and in the +autumn of 1584 John of Herrera looked upon the finished work, so +vast and so gloomy that it lay like an incubus</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">258 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">upon the breast of +earth. It is a parallelogram measuring from north to south seven +hundred and forty-four feet, and five hundred and eighty feet +from east to west. It is built, by order of the fantastic bigot, +in the form of St. Lawrence's gridiron, the courts representing +the interstices of the bars, and the towers at the corners +sticking helpless in the air like the legs of the supine +implement. It is composed of a clean gray granite, chiefly in the +Doric order, with a severity of facade that degenerates into +poverty, and defrauds the building of the effect its great bulk +merits. The sheer monotonous walls are pierced with eleven +thousand windows, which, though really large enough for the +rooms, seem on that stupendous surface to shrink into musketry +loopholes. In the centre of the parallelogram stands the great +church, surmounted by its soaring dome. All around the principal +building is stretched a circumscribing line of convents, in the +same style of doleful yellowish-gray uniformity, so endless in +extent that the inmates might easily despair of any world beyond +them.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">There are few +scenes in the world so depressing as that which greets you as you +enter into the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-56.jpg" alt="cd1-56.jpg" class="c66"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">COURT OF THE TEMPLE, +ESCORIAL</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">THE ESCORIAL +259</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">wide court before +the church, called El Templo. You are shut finally in by these +iron-gray walls. The outside day has given you up. Your feet slip +on the damp flags. An unhealthy fungus tinges the humid corners +with a pallid green. You look in vain for any trace of human +sympathy in those blank walls and that severe facade. There is a +dismal attempt in that direction in the gilded garments and the +painted faces of the colossal prophets and kings that are perched +above the lofty doors. But they do not comfort you; they are +tinselled stones, not statues.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Entering the +vestibule of the church, and looking up, you observe with a sort +of horror that the ceiling is of massive granite and flat. The +sacristan has a story that when Philip saw this ceiling, which +forms the floor of the high choir, he remonstrated against it as +too audacious, and insisted on a strong pillar being built to +support it. The architect complied, but when Philip came to see +the improvement he burst into lamentation, as the enormous column +destroyed the effect of the great altar. The canny architect, who +had built the pillar of pasteboard, removed it with a touch, and +his majesty was comforted. Walking forward to the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7"><b>260</b></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">edge of this +shadowy vestibule, you recognize the skill and taste which +presided at this unique and intelligent arrangement of the choir. +If left, as usual, in the body of the church, it would have +seriously impaired that solemn and simple grandeur which +distinguishes this above all other temples. There is nothing to +break the effect of the three great naves, divided by immense +square-clustered columns, and surmounted by the vast dome that +rises with all the easy majesty of a mountain more than three +hundred feet from the decent black and white pavement. I know of +nothing so simple and so imposing as this royal chapel, built +purely for the glory of God and with no thought of mercy or +consolation for human infirmity. The frescos of Luca Giordano +show the attempt of a later and degenerate age to enliven with +form and color the sombre dignity of this faultless pile. But +there is something in the blue and vapory pictures which shows +that even the unabashed Luca was not free from the impressive +influence of the Escorial.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">A flight of veined +marble steps leads to the beautiful retable of the high altar. +The screen, over ninety feet high, cost the Milanese +Trezzo</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-57.jpg" alt="cd1-57.jpg" class="c67"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">THE HIGH ALTAR, +ESCORIAL</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">THE ESCORIAL +261</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">seven years of +labor. The pictures illustrative of the life of our Lord are by +Tibaldi and Zuccaro. The gilt bronze tabernacle of Trezzo and +Herrera, which has been likened with the doors of the Baptistery +of Florence as worthy to figure in the architecture of heaven, no +longer exists. It furnished a half hour's amusement to the +soldiers of France. On either side of the high altar are the +oratories of the royal family, and above them are the kneeling +effigies of Charles, with his wife, daughter, and sisters, and +Philip with his successive harem of wives. One of the few +luxuries this fierce bigot allowed himself was that of a new +widowhood every few years. There are forty other altars with +pictures good and bad. The best are by the wonderful deaf-mute, +Navarrete, of Logroño, and by Sánchez Coello, the +favorite of Philip.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">To the right of the +high altar in the transept you will find, if your tastes, unlike +Miss Rider-hood's, run in a bony direction, the most remarkable +Reliquary in the world. With the exception perhaps of Cuvier, +Philip could see more in a bone than any man who ever lived. In +his long life of osseous enthusiasm he collected seven thousand +four hundred and twenty-one genuine relics,--</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7"><b>262</b></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">whole skeletons, +odd shins, teeth, toe-nails, and skulls of martyrs,--sometimes by +a miracle of special grace getting duplicate skeletons of the +same saint. The prime jewels of this royal collection are the +grilled bones of San Lorenzo himself, bearing dim traces of his +sacred gridiron.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">The sacristan will +show you also the retable of the miraculous wafer, which bled +when trampled on by Protestant heels at Gorcum in 1525. This has +always been one of the chief treasures of the Spanish crown. The +devil-haunted idiot Charles II. made a sort of idol of it, +building it this superb altar, consecrated "in this miracle of +earth to the miracle of heaven." When the atheist Frenchmen +sacked the Escorial and stripped it of silver and gold, the pious +monks thought most of hiding this wonderful wafer, and when the +storm passed by, the booby Ferdinand VII. restored it with much +burning of candles, swinging of censers, and chiming of bells. +Worthless as it is, it has done one good work in the world. It +inspired the altar-picture of Claudio Coello, the last best work +of the last of the great school of Spanish painters. He finished +it just before he died of shame and grief at seeing Giordano, the +nimble Neapolitan, emptying his</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">THE ESCORIAL +263</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">buckets of paint on +the ceiling of the grand staircase, where St. Lawrence and an +army of martyrs go sailing with a fair wind into +glory.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The great days of +art in the Escorial are gone. Once in every nook and corner it +concealed treasures of beauty that the world had nearly +forgotten. The Perla of Raphael hung in the dark sacristy. The +Cena of Titian dropped to pieces in the refectory. The Gloria, +which had sunk into eclipse on the death of Charles V., was +hidden here among unappreciative monks. But on the secularization +of the monasteries, these superb canvases went to swell the +riches of the Royal Museum. There are still enough left here, +however, to vindicate the ancient fame of the collection. They +are perhaps more impressive in their beauty and loneliness than +if they were pranking among their kin in the glorious galleries +and perfect light of that enchanted palace of Charles III. The +inexhaustible old man of Cadora has the Prayer on Mount Olivet, +an Ecce Homo, an Adoration of the Magi. Velazquez one of his rare +scriptural pieces, Jacob and his Children. Tintoretto is rather +injured at the Museo by the number and importance of his pictures +left in this monkish twilight; among them</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">264 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">is a lovely Esther, +and a masterly Presentation of Christ to the People. Plenty of +Giordanos and Bassanos and one or two by El Greco, with his weird +plague-stricken faces, all chalk and charcoal. A sense of duty +will take you into the crypt where the dead kings are sleeping in +brass. This mausoleum, ordered by the great Charles, was slow in +finishing. All of his line had a hand in it down to Philip IV., +who completed it and gathered in the poor relics of royal +mortality from many graves. The key of the vault is the stone +where the priest stands when he elevates the Host in the temple +above. The vault is a graceful octagon about forty feet high, +with nearly the same diameter; the flickering light of your +torches shows twenty-six sarcophagi, some occupied and some +empty, filling the niches of the polished marble. On the right +sleep the sovereigns, on the left their consorts. There is a +coffin for Doña Isabel de Bourbon among the kings, and one +for her amiable and lady-like husband among the queens. They were +not lovely in their lives, and in their deaths they shall be +divided. The quaint old church-mouse who showed me the crypt +called my attention to the coffin where Maria Louisa, wife of +Charles</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">THE ESCORIAL +265</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">IV.,--the lady who +so gallantly bestrides her war-horse, in the uniform of a +colonel, in Goya's picture,--coming down those slippery steps +with the sure footing of feverish insanity, during a severe +illness, scratched <i>Luisa</i> with the point of her scissors +and marked the sarcophagus for her own. All there was good of her +is interred with her bones. Her frailties live on in scandalized +history.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Twice, it is said, +the coffin of the emperor has been opened by curious hands,--by +Philip IV., who found the corpse of his great ancestor intact, +and observed to the courtier at his elbow, "An honest body, Don +Luis!" and again by the Ministers of State and Fomento in the +spring of 1870, who started back aghast when the coffin-lid was +lifted and disclosed the grim face of the Burgess of Ghent, just +as Titian painted him,--the keen, bold face of a +world-stealer.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">I do not know if +Philip's funeral urn was ever opened. He stayed above ground too +long as it was, and it is probable that people have never cared +to look upon his face again. All that was human had died out of +him years before his actual demise, and death seemed not to +consider it worth</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">266</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">while to carry off +a vampire. Go into the little apartment where his last days were +passed; a wooden table and book-shelf, one arm-chair and two +stools--the one upholstered with cloth for winter, the other with +tin for summer--on which he rested his gouty leg, and a low chair +for a secretary,--this was all the furniture he used. The rooms +are not larger than cupboards, low and dark. The little oratory +where he died looks out upon the high altar of the Temple. In a +living death, as if by an awful anticipation of the common lot it +was ordained that in the flesh he should know corruption, he lay +waiting his summons hourly for fifty-three days. What tremendous +doubts and fears must have assailed him in that endless agony! He +had done more for the Church than any living man. He was the +author of that sublime utterance of uncalculating bigotry, +"Better not reign than reign over heretics." He had pursued error +with fire and sword. He had peopled limbo with myriads of rash +thinkers. He had impoverished his kingdom in Catholic wars. Yet +all this had not sufficed. He lay there like a leper smitten by +the hand of the God he had so zealously served. Even in his mind +there was no</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">THE ESCORIAL +267</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">peace. He held in +his clenched hand his father's crucifix, which Charles had held +in his exultant death at Yuste. Yet in his waking hours he was +never free from the horrible suggestion that he had not done +enough for salvation. He would start in horror from a sleep that +was peopled with shapes from torment. Humanity was avenged at +last.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">So powerful is the +influence of a great personality that in the Escorial you can +think of no one but Philip II. He lived here only fourteen years, +but every corridor and cloister seems to preserve the souvenir of +his sombre and imperious genius. For two and a half centuries his +feeble successors have trod these granite halls; but they flit +through your mind pale and unsubstantial as dreams. The only +tradition they preserved of their great descent was their +magnificence and their bigotry. There has never been one +utterance of liberty or free thought inspired by this haunted +ground. The king has always been absolute here, and the monk has +been the conscience-keeper of the king. The whole life of the +Escorial has been unwholesomely pervaded by a flavor of holy +water and burial vaults. There was enough of the repressive +influ-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">268</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">ence of that savage +Spanish piety to spoil the freshness and vigor of a natural life, +but not enough to lead the court and the courtiers to a moral +walk and conversation. It was as profligate a court in reality, +with all its masses and monks, as the gay and atheist circle of +the Regent of Orleans. Even Philip, the Inquisitor King, did not +confine his royal favor to his series of wives. A more reckless +and profligate young prodigal than Don Carlos, the hope of Spain +and Rome, it would be hard to find to-day at Mabille or +Cremorne. But he was a deeply religious lad for all that, and +asked absolution from his confessors before attempting to put in +practice his intention of killing his father. Philip, forewarned, +shut him up until he died, in an edifying frame of mind, and then +calmly superintended the funeral arrangements from a window of +the palace. The same mingling of vice and superstition is seen in +the lessening line down to our day. The last true king of the old +school was Philip IV. Amid the ruins of his tumbling kingdom he +lived royally here among his priests and his painters and his +ladies. There was one jealous exigency of Spanish etiquette that +made his favor fatal. The object of</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-58.jpg" alt="cd1-58.jpg" class="c68"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH, +ESCORIAL</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">THE ESCORIAL +269</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">his adoration, when +his errant fancy strayed to another, must go into a convent and +nevermore be seen of lesser men. Madame Daunoy, who lodged at +court, heard one night an august footstep in the hall and a +kingly rap on the bolted door of a lady of honor. But we are +happy to say she heard also the spirited reply from within, "May +your grace go with God! I do not wish to be a nun!"</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">There is little in +these frivolous lives that is worth knowing,--the long inglorious +reigns of the dwindling Austrians and the parody of greater days +played by the scions of Bourbon, relieved for a few creditable +years by the heroic struggle of Charles III. against the hopeless +decadence. You may walk for an hour through the dismal line of +drawing-rooms in the cheerless palace that forms the gridiron's +handle, and not a spirit is evoked from memory among all the +tapestry and panelling and gilding.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">The only cheerful +room in this granite wilderness is the library, still in good and +careful keeping. A long, beautiful room, two hundred feet of +bookcases, and tasteful frescos by Tibaldi and Carducho, +representing the march of the liberal sciences. Most of the older +folios are bound in</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font16">270</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">vellum, with their +gilded edges, on which the title is stamped, turned to the front. +A precious collection of old books and older manuscripts, useless +to the world as the hoard of a miser. Along the wall are hung the +portraits of the Escorial kings and builders. The hall is +furnished with marble and porphyry tables, and elaborate glass +cases display some of the curiosities of the library,--a copy of +the Gospels that belonged to the Emperor Conrad, the Suabian +Kurz; a richly illuminated Apocalypse; a gorgeous missal of +Charles V.; a Greek Bible, which once belonged to Mrs. Phoebus's +ancestor Cantacuzene; Persian and Chinese sacred books; and a +Koran, which is said to be the one captured by Don Juan at +Lepanto. Mr. Ford says it is spurious; Mr. Madoz says it is +genuine. The ladies with whom I had the happiness to visit the +library inclined to the latter opinion for two very good +reasons,--the book is a very pretty one, and Mr. Madoz's head is +much balder than Mr. Ford's. Wandering aimlessly through the +frescoed cloisters and looking in at all the open doors, over +each of which a cunning little gridiron is inlaid in the +woodwork, we heard the startling and unexpected sound of boyish +voices and laughter. We ap-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">THE ESCORIAL +<b>271</b></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">proached the scene +of such agreeable tumult, and found the theatre of the monastery +full of young students rehearsing a play for the coming holidays. +A clever-looking priest was directing the drama, and one juvenile +Thespis was denouncing tyrants and dying for his country in +hexameters of a shrill treble. His friends were applauding more +than was necessary or kind, and flourishing their wooden swords +with much ferocity of action. All that is left of the once +extensive establishment of the monastery is a boys' school, where +some two hundred youths are trained in the humanities, and a +college where an almost equal number are educated for the +priesthood.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">So depressing is +the effect of the Escorial's gloom and its memories, that when +you issue at last from its massive doors, the trim and terraced +gardens seem gay and heartsome, and the bleak wild scene is full +of comfort. For here at least there is light and air and +boundless space. You have emerged from the twilight of the past +into the present day. The sky above you bends over Paris and +Cheyenne. By this light Darwin is writing, and the merchants are +meeting in the Chicago Board of Trade. Just below you winds the +railway which</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font8"><b>272</b></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">will take you in +two hours to Madrid,--to the city of Philip II., where the +nineteenth century has arrived; where there are five Protestant +churches and fifteen hundred evangelical communicants. Our young +crusader, Professor Knapp, holds night schools and day schools +and prayer meetings, with an active devotion, a practical and +American fervor, that is leavening a great lump of apathy and +death. These Anglo-Saxon missionaries have a larger and more +tolerant spirit of propaganda than has been hitherto seen. They +can differ about the best shape for the cup and the platter, but +they use what they find to their hand. They are giving a tangible +direction and purpose to the vague impulse of reform that was +stirring, before they came, in many devout hearts. A little while +longer of this state of freedom and inquiry, and the shock of +controversy will come, and Spain will be brought to +life.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Already the signs +are full of promise. The ancient barriers of superstition have +already given way in many places. A Protestant can not only live +in Spain, but, what was once a more important matter, he can die +and be buried there. This is one of the conquests of the +revolution. So delicate</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-59.jpg" alt="cd1-59.jpg" class="c69"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">SACRISTY, +ESCORIAL</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">THE ESCORIAL +273</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">has been the +susceptibility of the Spanish mind in regard to the pollution of +its soil by heretic corpses that even Charles I. of England, when +he came a-wooing to Spain, could hardly gain permission to bury +his page by night in the garden of the embassy; and in later days +the Prussian Minister was compelled to smuggle his dead child out +of the kingdom among his luggage to give it Christian burial. +Even since the days of September the clergy has fought manfully +against giving sepulture to Protestants; but Rivero, alcalde of +Madrid and president of the Cortes, was not inclined to waste +time in dialectics, and sent a police force to protect the +heretic funerals and to arrest any priest who disturbed them. +There is freedom of speech and printing. The humorous journals +are full of blasphemous caricatures that would be impossible out +of a Catholic country, for superstition and blasphemy always run +in couples. It was the Duke de Guise, commanding the pope's army +at Civitella, who cried in his rage at a rain which favored Alva, +"God has turned Spaniard;" like Quashee, who burns his fetish +when the weather is foul. The liberal Spanish papers overflowed +with wit at the proclamation of infallibility. They announced +that</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">274 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">his holiness was +now going into the lottery business with brilliant prospects of +success; that he could now tell what Father Manterola had done +with the thirty thousand dollars' worth of bulls he sold last +year and punctually neglects to account for, and other levities +of the sort, which seemed greatly relished, and which would have +burned the facetious author two centuries before, and fined and +imprisoned him before the fight at Alcolea. The minister having +charge of the public instruction has promised to present a law +for the prohibition of dogmatic doctrine in the national schools. +The law of civil registry and civil marriage, after a desperate +struggle in the Cortes, has gone into operation with general +assent. There is a large party which actively favors the entire +separation of the spiritual from the temporal power, making +religion voluntary, and free, and breaking its long concubinage +with the crown. The old superstition, it is true, still hangs +like a malarial fog over Spain. But it is invaded by flashes and +rays of progress. It cannot resist much longer the sunshine of +this tolerant age.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Far up the +mountain-side, in the shade of a cluster of chestnuts, is a rude +block of stone, called</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">THE ESCORIAL +275</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">the "King's Chair," +where Philip used to sit in silent revery, watching as from an +eyry the progress of the enormous work below. If you go there, +you will see the same scene upon which his basilisk glance +reposed,--in a changed world, the .same unchanging scene,--the +stricken waste, the shaggy horror of the mountains, the fixed +plain wrinkled like a frozen sea, and in the centre of the +perfect picture the vast chill bulk of that granite pile, rising +cold, colorless, and stupendous, as if carved from an iceberg by +the hand of Northern gnomes. It is the palace of vanished +royalty, the temple of a religion which is dead. There are kings +and priests still, and will be for many coming years. But never +again can a power exist which shall rear to the glory of the +sceptre and the cowl a monument like this. It is a page of +history deserving to be well pondered, for it never will be +repeated. The world which Philip ruled from the foot of the +Guadarrama has passed away. A new heaven and a new earth came in +with the thunders of 1776 and 1789. There will be no more +Pyramids, no more Versailles, no more Escoriáis. The +unpublished fiat has gone forth that man is worth more than the +glory of princes. The better religion of the future</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font9">276</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">has no need of +these massive dungeon-temples of superstition and fear. Yet there +is a store of precious teachings in this mass of stone. It is one +of the results of that mysterious law to which the genius of +history has subjected the caprices of kings, to the end that we +might not be left without a witness of the past for our warning +and example,--the law which induces a judged and sentenced +dynasty to build for posterity some monument of its power, which +hastens and commemorates its ruin. By virtue of this law we read +on the plains of Egypt the pride and the fall of the Pharaohs. +Before the fagade of Versailles we see at a glance the grandeur +of the Capetian kings and the necessity of the Revolution. And +the most vivid picture of that fierce and gloomy religion of the +sixteenth century, compounded of a base alloy of worship for an +absolute king and a vengeful God, is to be found in this colossal +hermitage in the flinty heart of the mountains of +Castile.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-60.jpg" alt="cd1-60.jpg" class="c49"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">A MIRACLE +PLAY</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">IN the windy month +of March a sudden gloom falls upon Madrid,--the reaction after +the <i>folie gaieté</i> of the Carnival. The theatres are +at their gayest in February until Prince Carnival and his jolly +train assault the town, and convert the temples of the drama into +ball-rooms. They have not yet arrived at the wonderful expedition +and despatch observed in Paris, where a half hour is enough to +convert the grand opera into the masked ball. The invention of +this process of flooring the orchestra flush with the stage and +making a vast dancing-hall out of both is due to</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font16">278</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">an ingenious +courtier of the regency, bearing the great name of De Bouillon, +who got much credit and a pension by it. In Madrid they take the +afternoon leisurely to the transformation, and the evening's +performance is of course sacrificed. So the sock and buskin, not +being adapted to the cancan, yielded with February, and the +theatres were closed finally on Ash Wednesday.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Going by the +pleasant little theatre of Lope de Rueda, in the Calle Barquillo, +I saw the office-doors open, the posters up, and an unmistakable +air of animation among the loungers who mark with a seal so +peculiar the entrance of places of amusement. Struck by this +apparent levity in the midst of the general mortification, I went +over to look at the bills and found the subject announced serious +enough for the most Lenten entertainment,--Los Siete Dolores de +Maria,--The Seven Sorrows of Mary,--the old mediaeval Miracle of +the Life of the Saviour.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">This was bringing +suddenly home to me the fact that I was really in a Catholic +country. I had never thought of going to Ammergau, and so, when +reading of these shows, I had entertained no more hope of seeing +one than of assisting at an</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">A MIRACLE PLAY +279</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">auto-da-fé +or a witch-burning. I went to the box-office to buy seats. But +they were all sold. The forestallers had swept the board. I was +never able to determine whether I most pitied or despised these +pests of the theatre. Whenever a popular play is presented, a +dozen ragged and garlic-odorous vagabonds go early in the day and +buy as many of the best places as they can pay for. They hang +about the door of the theatre all day, and generally manage to +dispose of their purchases at an advance. But it happens very +often that they are disappointed; that the play does not draw, or +that the evening threatens rain, and the Spaniard is devoted to +his hat. He would keep out of a revolution if it rained. So that, +at the pleasant hour when the orchestra are giving the last tweak +to the key of their fiddles, you may see these woebegone wretches +rushing distractedly from the Piamonte to the Alcalá, +offering their tickets at a price which falls rapidly from double +to even, and tumbles headlong to half-price at the first note of +the opening overture. When I see the forestaller luxuriously +basking at the office-door in the warm sunshine, and scornfully +refusing to treat for less than twice the treasurer's figures, I +feel a</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7"><b>280</b></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">divided indignation +against the nuisance and the management that permits it. But when +in the evening I meet him haggard and feverish, hawking his +unsold places in desperate panic on the sidewalk, I cannot but +remember that probably a half dozen dirty and tawny descendants +of Pelayo will eat no beans to-morrow for those unfortunate +tickets, and my wrath melts, and I buy his crumpled papers, moist +with the sweat of anxiety, and add a slight propina, which I fear +will be spent in aguardiente to calm his shattered +nerves.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">This day the sky +looked threatening, and my shabby hidalgo listened to reason, and +sold me my places at their price and a <i>petit +verre.</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">As we entered in +the evening the play had just begun. The scene was the interior +of the Temple at Jerusalem, rather well done,--two ranges of +superimposed porphyry columns with a good effect of oblique +perspective, which is very common in the Spanish theatres. St. +Simeon, in a dress suspiciously resembling that of the modern +bishop, was talking with a fiery young Hebrew who turns out to be +Demás, the Penitent Thief, and who is destined to play a +very noticeable part in the evening's entertainment. He has +received some slight</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-61.jpg" alt="cd1-61.jpg" class="c70"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">A STREET OF +TOLEDO</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">A MIRACLE PLAY +281</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">from the government +authorities and does not propose to submit to it. The aged and +cooler-blooded Simeon advises him to do nothing rash. Here at the +very outset is a most characteristic Spanish touch. You are +expected to be interested in Demás, and the only crime +which could appeal to the sympathies of a Castilian crowd would +be one committed at the promptings of injured dignity.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">There is a soft, +gentle strain of music played pianissimo by the orchestra, and, +surrounded by a chorus of mothers and maidens, the Virgin Mother +enters with the Divine Child in her arms. The Madonna is a +strapping young girl named Gutiérrez, a very clever +actress; and the Child has been bought in the neighboring +toy-shop, a most palpable and cynical wax-doll. The doll is +handed to Simeon, and the solemn ceremony of the Presentation is +performed to fine and thoughtful music. St. Joseph has come in +sheepishly by the flies with his inseparable staff crowned with a +garland of lilies, which remain miraculously fresh during thirty +years or so, and kneels at the altar, on the side opposite to +Miss Gutiérrez.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">As the music +ceases, Simeon starts as from a trance and predicts in a few +rapid couplets the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">282 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">sufferings and the +crucifixion of the child. Mary falls overwhelmed into the arms of +her attendants, and Simeon exclaims, "Most blessed and most +unfortunate among women! thy heart is to be pierced with Seven +Sorrows, and this is the first." Demás rushes in and +announces the massacre of the innocents, concluding with the +appropriate reflection, "Perish the kings! always the murderers +of the people." This sentiment is so much to the taste of the +gamins of the paraíso that they vociferously demand an +encore; but the Roman soldiers come in and commence the pleasing +task of prodding the dolls in the arms of the chorus.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The next act is the +Flight into Egypt. The curtain rises on a rocky ravine with a +tinsel torrent in the background and a group of robbers on the +stage. Gestas, the impenitent thief, stands sulky and glum in a +corner, fingering his dagger as you might be sure he would, and +informing himself in a growling soliloquy that his heart is +consumed with envy and hate because he is not captain. The +captain, one Issachar, comes in, a superbly handsome young +fellow, named Mario, to my thinking the first comedian in Spain, +dressed in a flashy suit of leopard hides, and +announces</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">A MIRACLE PLAY +283</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">the arrival of a +stranger. Enters Demás, who says he hates the world and +would fain drink its foul blood. He is made politely welcome. No! +he will be captain or nothing. Issachar laughs scornfully and +says <i>he</i> is in the way of that modest aspiration. But +Demás speedily puts him out of the way with an Albacete +knife, and becomes captain, to the profound disgust of the +impenitent Gestas, who exclaims, just as the profane villains do +nowadays on every well-conducted stage, "Damnation! foiled +again!"</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The robbers pick up +their idolized leader and pitch him into the tinsel torrent. This +is also extremely satisfactory to the wide-awake young Arabs of +the cock-loft. The bandits disperse, and Demás indulges in +some fifty lines of rhymed reflections, which are interrupted by +the approach of the Holy Family, hotly pursued by the soldiery of +Herod. They stop under a sycamore tree, which instantly, by very +clever machinery, bends down its spreading branches and +miraculously hides them from the bloodthirsty legionaries. These +pass on, and Demás leads the saintly trio by a secret pass +over the torrent,--the Mother and Child mounted upon an ass and +St. Joseph trudging on behind</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">284 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">with his +lily-decked staff, looking all as if they were on a short leave +of absence from Correggio's picture-frame.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">Demás comes +back, calls up his merrymen, and has a battle-royal with the +enraged legionaries, which puts the critics of the gallery into a +frenzy of delight and assures the success of the spectacle. The +curtain falls in a gust of applause, is stormed up again, +Demás comes forward and makes a neat speech, announcing +the author. Que salga! roar the gods,--"Trot him out!" A shabby +young cripple hobbles to the front, leaning upon a crutch, his +sallow face flushed with a hectic glow of pride and pleasure. He +also makes a glib speech,--I have never seen a Spaniard who could +not,--disclaiming all credit for himself, but lauding the +sublimity of the acting and the perfection of the scene-painting, +and saying that the memory of this unmerited applause will be +forever engraved upon his humble heart.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Act third, the Lost +Child, or Christ in the Temple. The scene is before the Temple on +a festival day, plenty of chorus-girls, music, and flowers. +Demás and the impenitent Gestas and Barabbas, who, I was +pleased to see, was after all a very</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">A MIRACLE PLAY +285</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">good sort of +fellow, with no more malice than you or I, were down in the city +on a sort of lark, their leopard skins left in the mountains and +their daggers hid under the natty costume of the Judaean dandy of +the period. Demás and Gestas have a quarrel, in which +Gestas is rather roughly handled, and goes off growling like +every villain, <i>qui se respecte,--</i>"I will have r-revenge." +Barabbas proposes to go around to the cider-cellars, but +Demás confides to him that he is enslaved by a dream of a +child, who said to him, "Follow me--to Paradise;" that he had +come down to Jerusalem to seek and find the mysterious infant of +his vision. The jovial Barabbas seems imperfectly impressed by +these transcendental fancies, and at this moment Mary comes in +dressed like a Madonna of Guido Reni, and soon after St. Joseph +and his staff. They ask each other where is the Child,--a scene +of alarm and bustle, which ends by the door of the Temple flying +open and discovering, shrined in ineffable light, Jesus teaching +the doctors.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">In the fourth act, +Demás meets a beautiful woman by the city gate, in the +loose, graceful dress of the Hetairai, and the most wonderful +luxuriance</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">286</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">of black curls I +have ever seen falling in dense masses to her knees. After a +conversation of amorous banter, he gives her a golden chain, +which she assumes, well pleased, and gives him her name, La +Magdalena. A motley crowd of street loafers here rushed upon the +scene, and I am sure there was no one of Northern blood in the +theatre that did not shudder for an instant at the startling +apparition that formed the central figure of the group. The world +has long ago agreed upon a typical face and figure for the +Saviour of men; it has been repeated on myriads of canvases and +reproduced in thousands of statues, till there is scarcely a man +living that does not have the same image of the Redeemer in his +mind. Well, that image walked quietly upon the stage, so perfect +in make-up that you longed for some error to break the terrible +vraisemblance. I was really relieved when the august appearance +spoke, and I recognized the voice of a young actor named Morales, +a clever light comedian of the Bressant type.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">The Magdalene is +soon converted by the preaching of the Nazarene Prophet, and the +scene closes by the triumphant entry into Jerusalem amid the +waving of palm-branches, the strewing of flowers,</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-62.jpg" alt="cd1-62.jpg" class="c71"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">MOZARABIC CHAPEL, +TOLEDO</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">A MIRACLE PLAY +287</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">and "sonorous metal +blowing martial sounds." The pathetic and sublime lament, +"Jerusalem! Jerusalem! thou that killest the prophets!" was +delivered with great 'feeling and power.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The next act brings +us before the judgment-seat of Pontius Pilate. This act is almost +solely horrible. The Magdalene in her garb of penitence comes in +to beg the release of Jesus of Nazareth. Pontius, who is +represented as a gallant old gentleman, says he can refuse +nothing to a lady. The prisoner is dragged in by two ferocious +ruffians, who beat and buffet him with absurd and exaggerated +violence. There is nothing more hideous than the awful +concreteness of this show,--the naked helplessness of the +prisoner, his horrible, cringing, overdone humility, the coarse +kicking and cuffing of the deputy sheriffs. The Prophet is +stripped and scourged at the pillar until he drops from +exhaustion. He is dragged anew before Pilate and examined, but +his only word is, "Thou hast said." The scene lasts nearly an +hour. The theatre was full of sobbing women and children. At +every fresh brutality I could hear the weeping spectators say, +"Pobre Jesus!" "How wicked they are!" The bulk of the audience +was of people who do not</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">288 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">often go to +theatres. They looked upon the revolting scene as a real and +living fact. One hard-featured man near me clenched his fists and +cursed the cruel guards. A pale, delicate-featured girl who was +leaning out of her box, with her brown eyes, dilated with horror, +fixed upon the scene, suddenly shrieked as a Roman soldier struck +the unresisting Saviour, and fell back fainting in the arms of +her friends.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The Nazarene +Prophet was condemned at last. Gestas gives evidence against him, +and also delivers Demás to the law, but is himself +denounced, and shares their sentence. The crowd howled with +exultation, and Pilate washed his hands in impotent rage and +remorse. The curtain came down leaving the uncultivated portion +of the audience in the frame of mind in which their ancestors a +few centuries earlier would have gone from the theatre determined +to serve God and relieve their feelings by killing the first Jew +they could find. The diversion was all the better, because safer, +if they happened to the good luck of meeting a Hebrew woman or +child.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The Calle de +Amargura--the Street of Bitterness--was the next scene. First +came a long pro-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">A MIRACLE PLAY +289</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">cession of official +Romans,--lictors and swordsmen, and the heralds announcing the +day's business. Demás appears, dragged along with vicious +jerks to execution. The Saviour follows, and falls under the +weight of the cross before the footlights. Another long and +dreary scene takes place, of brutalities from the Roman soldiers, +the ringleader of whom is a sanguinary Andalusian ingeniously +encased in a tin barrel, a hundred lines of rhymed sorrow from +the Madonna, and a most curious scene of the Wandering Jew. This +worthy, who in defiance of tradition is called Samuel, is sitting +in his doorway watching the show, when the suffering Christ begs +permission to rest a moment on his threshold. He says churlishly, +Anda!--"Begone!" "I will go, but thou shalt go forever until I +come." The Jew's feet begin to twitch convulsively, as if pulled +from under him. He struggles for a moment, and at last is carried +off by his legs, which are moved like those of the walking dolls +with the Greek names. This odd tradition, so utterly in +contradiction with the picture the Scriptures give us of the meek +dignity with which the Redeemer forgave all personal injuries, +has taken a singular hold upon the imaginations of all peoples. +Under varying names,---</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">290</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Ahasuerus, +Salathiel, le Juif Errant, der ewige Jude,--his story is the +delight and edification of many lands; and I have met some worthy +people who stoutly insisted that they had read it in the +Bible.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The sinister +procession moves on. The audience, which had been somewhat +cheered by the prompt and picturesque punishment inflicted upon +the inhospitable Samuel, was still further exhilarated by the +spectacle of the impenitent traitor Gestas, staggering under an +enormous cross, his eyes and teeth glaring with abject fear, with +an athletic Roman haling him up to Calvary with a new hempen +halter.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">A long intermission +followed, devoted to putting babies to sleep,--for there were +hundreds of them, wide-eyed and strong-lunged,--to smoking the +hasty cigarette, to discussing the next combination of Prim or +the last scandal in the gay world. The carpenters were busy +behind the scenes building the mountain. When the curtain rose, +it was worth waiting for. It was an admirable scene. A genuine +Spanish mountain, great humpy undulations of rock and sand, +gigantic cacti for all vegetation, a lurid sky behind, but not +over-colored. A group</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-63.jpg" alt="cd1-63.jpg" class="c72"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5">THE CHEERFUL GOTHIC +CLOISTERS, TOLEDO</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">A MIRACLE PLAY +291</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">of Roman soldiers +in the foreground, in the rear the hill, and the executioners +busily employed in nailing the three victims to their crosses. +Demás was fastened first; then Gestas, who, when undressed +for execution, was a superb model of a youthful Hercules. But the +third cross still lay on the ground; the hammering and disputing +and coming and going were horribly lifelike and real.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">At last the victim +is securely nailed to the wood, and the cross is slowly and +clumsily lifted and falls with a shock into its socket. The +soldiers <i>huzza.,</i> the fiend in the tin barrel and another +in a tin hat come down to the footlights and throw dice for the +raiment. "Caramba! curse my luck!" says our friend in the tin +case, and the other walks off with the vestment.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The Passion begins, +and lasts an interminable time. The grouping is admirable, every +shifting of the crowd in the foreground produces a new and +finished picture, with always the same background of the three +high crosses and their agonizing burdens against that lurid sky. +The impenitent Gestas curses and dies; the penitent Demás +believes and receives eternal rest. The Holy</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">292 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Women come in and +group themselves in picturesque despair at the foot of the cross. +The awful drama goes on with no detail omitted,--the thirst the +sponge dipped in vinegar, the cry of desolation, the +spear-thrust, the giving up of the ghost. The stage-lights are +lowered. A thick darkness--of crape--comes down over the sky. +Horror falls on the impious multitude, and the scene is deserted +save by the faithful.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">The closing act +opens with a fine effect of moon and stars. "Que linda luna!" +sighed a young woman beside me, drying her tears, comforted by +the beauty of the scene. The central cross is bathed in the full +splendor that is denied the others. Joseph of Abarimathea (as he +is here called) comes in with ladders and winding-sheets, and the +dead Christ is taken from the cross. The Descent is managed with +singular skill and genuine artistic feeling. The principal actor, +who has been suspended for an hour in a most painful and +constrained posture, has a corpse-like rigidity and numbness. +There is one moment when you can almost imagine yourself in +Antwerp, looking at that sublimest work of Rubens. The Entombment +ends, and the last tableau is of the Mater Dolorosa</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">A MIRACLE PLAY +293</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">in the Solitude. I +have rarely seen an effect so simple, and yet so striking,--the +darkened stage, the softened moonlight, the now Holy Rood +spectral and tall against the starry sky, and the Dolorous +Mother, alone in her sublime sorrow, as she will be worshipped +and revered for coming aeons.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">A curious +observation is made by all foreigners, of the absence of the +apostles from the drama. They appear from time to time, but +merely as supernumeraries. One would think that the character of +Judas was especially fitted for dramatic use. I spoke of this to +a friend, and he said that formerly the false apostle was +introduced in the play, but that the sight of him so fired the +Spanish heart that not only his life, but the success of the +piece was endangered. This reminds one of Mr. A. Ward's account +of a high-handed outrage at "Utiky," where a young gentleman of +good family stove in the wax head of "Jewdas Iscarrit," +characterizing him at the same time as a "pew-serlanimous +cuss."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">"To see these +Mysteries in their glory," continued my friend, "you should go +into the small</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">294 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">towns in the +provinces, uncontaminated with railroads or unbelief. There they +last several days The stage is the town, the Temple scene takes +place in the church, the Judgment at the city hall, and the +procession of the Via Crucis moves through all the principal +streets. The leading roles are no joke,--carrying fifty kilos of +wood over the mud and cobble-stones for half a day. The Judas or +Gestas must be paid double for the kicks and cuffs he gets from +tender-hearted spectators,--the curses he accepts willingly as a +tribute to his dramatic ability. His proudest boast in the +evening is Querían matarme,--<i>'</i> They wanted to kill +me!' I once saw the hero of the drama stop before a wine-shop, +sweating like rain, and positively swear by the life of the +Devil, he would not carry his gallows a step farther unless he +had a drink. They brought him a bottle of Valdepeñas, and +he drained it before resuming his way to Golgotha. Some of us +laughed thoughtlessly, and narrowly escaped the knives of the +orthodox ruffians who followed the procession."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The most striking +fact in this species of exhibition is the evident and +unquestioning faith of the audience. To all foreigners the show +is at first</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-64.jpg" alt="cd1-64.jpg" class="c73"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">THE CHOIR, +TOLEDO</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">A MIRACLE PLAY +295</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">shocking and then +tedious; to the good people of Madrid it is a sermon, full of +absolute truth and vivid reality. The class of persons who attend +these spectacles is very different from that which you find at +the Royal Theatre or the Comic Opera. They are sober, serious +bourgeois, who mind their shops and go to mass regularly, and who +come to the theatre only in Lent, when the gay world stays away. +They would not dream of such an indiscretion as reading the +Bible. Their doctrinal education consists of their catechism, the +sermons of the curas, and the traditions of the Church. The +miracle of St. Veronica, who, wiping the brow of the Saviour in +the Street of Bitterness, finds his portrait on her handkerchief, +is to them as real and reverend as if it were related by the +evangelist. The spirit of inquiry which has broken so many idols, +and opened such new vistas of thought for the minds of all the +world, is as yet a stranger to Spain. It is the blind and fatal +boast of even the best of Spaniards that their country is a unit +in religious faith. Nunca se disputó en +España,--"There has never been any discussion in +Spain,"--exclaims proudly an eminent Spanish writer. Spectacles +like that which we have just seen</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">296 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">were one of the +elements which in a barbarous and unenlightened age contributed +strongly to the consolidation of that unthinking and ardent faith +which has fused the nation into one torpid and homogeneous mass +of superstition. No better means could have been devised for the +purpose. Leaving out of view the sublime teachings of the large +and tolerant morality of Jesus, the clergy made his personality +the sole object of worship and reverence. By dwelling almost +exclusively upon the story of his sufferings, they excited the +emotional nature of the ignorant, and left their intellects +untouched and dormant. They aimed to arouse their sympathies, and +when that was done, to turn their natural resentment against +those whom the Church considered dangerous. To the inflamed and +excited worshippers, a heretic was the enemy of the crucified +Saviour, a Jew was his murderer, a Moor was his reviler. A +Protestant wore to their bloodshot eyes the semblance of the +torturer who had mocked and scourged the meek Redeemer, who had +crowned his guileless head with thorns, who had pierced and slain +him. The rack, the gibbet, and the stake were not enough to glut +the pious hate this priestly trickery in-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12">A MIRACLE +PLAY</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12">297</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">spired. It was not +enough that the doubter's life should go out in the blaze of the +crackling fagots, but it must be loaded in eternity with the +curses of the faithful.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Is there not food +for earnest thought in the fact that faith in Christ, which led +the Puritans across the sea to found the purest social and +political system which the wit of man has yet evolved from the +tangled problems of time, has dragged this great Spanish people +down to a depth of hopeless apathy, from which it may take long +years of civil tumult to raise them? May we not find the +explanation of this strange phenomenon in the contrast of +Catholic unity with Protestant diversity? "Thou that killest the +prophets!"--the system to which this apostrophe can be applied is +doomed. And it matters little who the prophets may be.</span><br> +</p> + +<img src="images/cd1-65.jpg" alt="cd1-65.jpg" class="c74"> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-66.jpg" alt="cd1-66.jpg" class="c75"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font2 c76">THE CRADLE AND THE +GRAVE OF CERVANTES</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">IN Rembrandt +Peale's picture of the Court of Death a cadaverous shape lies for +judgment at the foot of the throne, touching at either extremity +the waters of Lethe. There is something similar in the history of +the greatest of Spanish writers. No man knew, for more than a +century after the death of Cervantes, the place of his birth and +burial. About a hundred years ago the investigations of Rios and +Pellicer established the claim of Alcalá de Henares to be +his native city; and last year the researches of the Spanish +Academy have</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">CERVANTES +299</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">proved conclusively +that he is buried in the Convent of the Trinitarians in Madrid. +But the precise spot where he was born is only indicated by vague +tradition; and the shadowy conjecture that has so long hallowed +the chapel and cloisters of the Calle Cantarranas has never +settled upon any one slab of their pavement.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">It is, however, +only the beginning and the end of this most chivalrous and genial +apparition of the sixteenth century that is concealed from our +view. We know where he was christened and where he died. So that +there are sufficiently authentic shrines in Alcalá and +Madrid to satisfy the most sceptical pilgrims.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">I went to +Alcalá one summer day, when the bare fields were brown and +dry in their after-harvest nudity, and the hills that bordered +the winding Henares were drab in the light and purple in the +shadow. From a distance the town is one of the most imposing in +Castile. It lies in the midst of a vast plain by the green +water-side, and the land approach is fortified by a most +impressive wall emphasized by sturdy square towers and flanking +bastions. But as you come nearer you see this wall is a +tradition. It is almost in ruins.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">300 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The crenellated +towers are good for nothing but to sketch. A short walk from the +station brings you to the gate, which is well defended by a gang +of picturesque beggars, who are old enough to have sat for +Murillo, and revoltingly pitiable enough to be millionaires by +this time, if Castilians had the cowardly habit of sponging out +disagreeable impressions with pennies. At the first charge we +rushed in panic into a tobacco-shop and filled our pockets with +maravedís, and thereafter faced the ragged battalion with +calm.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">It is a fine, +handsome, and terribly lonesome town. Its streets are wide, well +built, and silent v as avenues in a graveyard. On every hand +there are tall and stately churches, a few palaces, and some two +dozen great monasteries turning their long walls, pierced with +jealous grated windows, to the grass-grown streets. In many +quarters there is no sign of life, no human habitations among +these morose and now empty barracks of a monkish army. Some of +them have been turned into military casernes, and the bright red +and blue uniforms of the Spanish officers and troopers now +brighten the cloisters that used to see nothing gayer than the +gowns of cord-girdled friars. A</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">CERVANTES +301</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">large garrison is +always kept here. The convents are convenient for lodging men and +horses. The fields in the vicinity produce great store of grain +and alfalfa,--food for beast and rider. It is near enough to the +capital to use the garrison on any sudden emergency, such as +frequently happens in Peninsular politics.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">The railroad that +runs by Alcalá has not brought with it any taint of the +nineteenth century. The army is a corrupting influence, but not +modern. The vice that follows the trail of armies, or sprouts, +fungus-like, about the walls of barracks, is as old as war, and +links the present, with its struggle for a better life, to the +old mediaeval world of wrong. These trim fellows in loose +trousers and embroidered jackets are the same race that fought +and drank and made prompt love in Italy and Flanders and +butchered the Aztecs in the name of religion three hundred years +ago. They have laid off their helmets and hauberks, and use the +Berdan rifle instead of the Roman spear. But they are the same +careless, idle, dissolute bread-wasters now as then.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">The town has not +changed in the least. It has only shrunk a little. You think +sometimes it must</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font8"><b>302</b></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">be a vacation, and +that you will come again when people return. The little you see +of the people is very attractive. Passing along the desolate +streets, you glance in at an open door and see a most delightful +cabinet picture of domestic life. All the doors in the house are +open. You can see through the entry, the front room, into the +cool court beyond, gay with oleanders and vines, where a group of +women half dressed are sewing and spinning and cheering their +souls with gossip. If you enter under pretence of asking a +question, you will be received with grave courtesy, your doubts +solved, and they will bid you go with God, with the quaint +frankness of patriarchal times.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">They do not seem to +have been spoiled by overmuch travel. Such impressive and +Oriental courtesy could not have survived the trampling feet of +the great army of tourists. On our pilgrim-way to the cradle of +Cervantes we came suddenly upon the superb facade of the +university. This is one of the most exquisite compositions of +plateresque in ' existence. The entire front of the central body +of the building is covered with rich and tasteful ornamentation. +Over the great door is an enormous escutcheon of the arms of +Austria, supported</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-67.jpg" alt="cd1-67.jpg" class="c77"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5">THE UNIVERSITY, +ALCALÁ</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">CERVANTES +303</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">by two finely +carved statues,--on the one side a nearly nude warrior, on the +other the New World as a feather-clad Indian woman. Still above +this a fine, bold group of statuary, representing, with that +reverent naivete of early art, God the Father in the work of +creation. Surrounding the whole front as with a frame, and +reaching to the ground on either side, is carved the knotted cord +of the Franciscan monks. No description can convey the charming +impression given by the harmony of proportion and the loving +finish of detail everywhere seen in this beautifully preserved +fagade. While we were admiring it an officer came out of the +adjoining cuartel and walked by us with jingling spurs. I asked +him if one could go inside. He shrugged his shoulders with a +Quien sabe? indicating a doubt as profound as if I had asked him +whether chignons were worn in the moon. He had never thought of +anything inside. There was no wine nor pretty girls there. Why +should one want to go in? We entered the cool vestibule, and were +ascending the stairs to the first court, when a porter came out +of his lodge and inquired our errand. We were wandering +barbarians with an eye to the picturesque, and would fain see +the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font0">304</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">university, if it +were not unlawful. He replied, in a hushed and scholastic tone of +voice, and with a succession of confidential winks that would +have inspired confidence in the heart of a Talleyrand, that if +our lordships would give him our cards he had no doubt he could +obtain the required permission from the rector. He showed us into +a dim, claustral-looking anteroom, in which, as I was told by my +friend, who trifles in lost moments with the integral calculus, +there were seventy-two chairs and one microscopic table. The wall +was decked with portraits of the youth of the college, all from +the same artist, who probably went mad from the attempt to make +fifty beardless faces look unlike each other. We sat for some +time mourning over his failure, until the door opened, and not +the porter, but the rector himself, a most courteous and polished +gentleman in the black robe and three-cornered hat of his order, +came in and graciously placed himself and the university at our +disposition. We had reason to congratulate ourselves upon this +good fortune. He showed us every nook and corner of the vast +edifice, where the present and the past elbowed each other at +every turn: here the boys' gymnasium, there the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">CERVANTES +305</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">tomb of Valles; +here the new patent cocks of the water-pipes, and there the +tri-lingual patio where Alonso Sánchez lectured in Arabic, +Greek, and Chaldean, doubtless making a choice hash of the three; +the airy and graceful paraninfo, or hall of degrees, a +masterpiece of Moresque architecture, with a gorgeous panelled +roof, a rich profusion of plaster arabesques, and, <i>horresco +referens,</i> the walls covered with a bright French paper. Our +good rector groaned at this abomination, but said the Gauls had +torn away the glorious carved panelling for firewood in the war +of 1808, and the college was too poor to restore it. His +righteous indignation waxed hot again when we came to the +beautiful sculptured pulpit of the chapel, where all the delicate +details are degraded by a thick coating of whitewash, which in +some places has fallen away and shows the gilding of the time of +the Catholic kings.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">There is in this +chapel a picture of the Virgin appearing to the great cardinal +whom we call Ximenez and the Spaniards Cisneros, which is +precious for two reasons. The portrait of Ximenez was painted +from life by the nameless artist, who, it is said, came from +France for the purpose,</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">306</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">and the face of the +Virgin is a portrait of Isabella the Catholic. It is a good +wholesome face, such as you would expect. But the thin, powerful +profile of Ximenez is very striking, with his red hair and florid +tint, his curved beak, and long, nervous lips. He looks not +unlike that superb portrait Raphael has left of Cardinal +Medici.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">This university is +fragrant with the good fame of Ximenez. In the principal court +there is a fine medallion of the illustrious founder and +protector, as he delighted to be drawn, with a sword in one hand +and a crucifix in the other,--twin brother in genius and fortune +of the soldier-priest of France, the Cardinal-Duke Richelieu. On +his gorgeous sarcophagus you read the arrogant epitaph with which +he revenged himself for the littleness of kings and +courtiers:--</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font9 c24">"Praetextam junxi +sacco, galeamque galero, Frater, dux, praesul, cardineusque +pater. Quin, virtute mea junctum est diadema cucullo, Dum mihi +regnanti patuit Gesperia."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">By a happy chance +our visit was made in a holiday time, and the students were all +away. It was better that there should be perfect solitude and +silence as we walked through the noble system of</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-68.jpg" alt="cd1-68.jpg" class="c78"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7">THE GORGEOUS SARCOPHAGUS +OF XIMENEZ, ALCALÁ</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">CERVANTES +307</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">buildings and +strove to re-create the student world of Cervantes's time. The +chronicle which mentions the visit of Francis I. to +Alcalá, when a prisoner in Spain, says he was received by +eleven thousand students. This was only twenty years before the +birth of Cervantes. The world will never see again so brilliant a +throng of ingenuous youth as gathered together in the great +university towns in those years of vivid and impassioned greed +for letters that followed the revival of learning. The romance of +Oxford or Heidelberg or Harvard is tame compared with that +electric life of a new-born world that wrought and flourished in +Padua, Paris, and Alcalá. Walking with my long-robed +scholarly guide through the still, shadowy courts, under +Renaissance arches and Moorish roofs, hearing him talking with +enthusiasm of the glories of the past and never a word of the +events of the present, in his pure, strong, guttural Castilian, +no living thing in view but an occasional Franciscan gliding +under the graceful arcades, it was not difficult to imagine the +scenes of the intense young life which filled these noble halls +in that fresh day of aspiration and hope, when this Spanish +sunlight fell on the marble and the granite bright and sharp from +the chisel of the builder, and</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">308 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">the great Ximenez +looked proudly on his perfect work and saw that it was +good.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">The twilight of +superstition still hung heavily over Europe. But this was +nevertheless the breaking of dawn, the herald of the fuller day +of investigation and inquiry.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">It was into this +rosy morning of the modern world that Cervantes was ushered in +the season of the falling leaves of 1547. He was born to a life +of poverty and struggle and an immortality of fame. His own city +did not know him while he lived, and now is only known through +him. Pilgrims often come from over distant seas to breathe for +one day the air that filled his baby lungs, and to muse among the +scenes that shaped his earliest thoughts.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">We strolled away +from the university through the still lanes and squares to the +Calle Mayor, the only thoroughfare of the town that yet retains +some vestige of traffic. It is a fine, long street bordered by +stone arcades, within which are the shops, and without which in +the pleasant afternoon are the rosy and contemplative +shopkeepers. It would seem a pity to disturb their dreamy repose +by offering to trade; and in justice to Castilian taste +and</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-69.jpg" alt="cd1-69.jpg" class="c79"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5">CALLE MAJOR, +ALCALÁ</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">CERVANTES</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">309</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">feeling I must say +that nobody does it. Halfway down the street a side alley runs to +the right, called Calle de Cervantes, and into this we turned to +find the birthplace of the romancer. On one side was a line of +squalid, quaint, gabled houses, on the other a long garden wall. +We walked under the shadow of the latter and stared at the +house-fronts, looking for an inscription we had heard of. We saw +in sunny doorways mothers oiling into obedience the stiff +horse-tail hair of their daughters. By the grated windows we +caught glimpses of the black eyes and nut-brown cheeks of maidens +at their needles. But we saw nothing to show which of these +mansions had been honored by tradition as the residence of +Roderick Cervantes.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">A brisk and +practical-looking man went past us.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">I asked him where +was the house of the poet. He smiled in a superior sort of way, +and pointed to the wall above my head: "There is no such house. +Some people think it once stood here, and they have placed that +stone in the garden-wall to mark the spot. I believe what I see. +It is all child's play anyhow, whether true or false. There is +better work to be done now than to honor Cervantes.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">310 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">He fought for a +bigot king, and died in a monk's hood."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">"You think lightly +of a glory of Castile."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">"If we could forget +all the glories of Castile it would be better for us."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">"Puede ser," I +assented. "Many thanks. May your grace go with God!"</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">"Health and +fraternity!" he answered, and moved away with a step full of +energy and dissent. He entered a door under an inscription, +"Federal Republican Club."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Go your ways, I +thought, radical brother. You are not so courteous nor so learned +as the rector. But this Peninsula has need of men like you. The +ages of belief have done their work for good and ill. Let us have +some years of the spirit that denies, and asks for proofs. The +power of the monk is broken, but the work is not yet done. The +convents have been turned into barracks, which is no improvement. +The ringing of spurs in the streets of Alcalá is no better +than the rustling of the sandalled friars. If this Republican +party of yours cannot do something to free Spain from the triple +curse of crown, crozier, and sabre, then Spain is in doleful +case. They are at last divided, and the first</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">CERVANTES +311</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">two have been +sorely weakened in detail. The last should be the easiest +work.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The scorn of my +radical friend did not prevent my copying the modest tablet on +the wall:--</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">"Here was born +Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra, author of Don Quixote. By his fame +and his genius he belongs to the civilized world; by his cradle +to Alcalá de Henares."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">There is no doubt +of the truth of the latter part of this inscription. Eight +Spanish towns have claimed to have given birth to Cervantes, thus +beating the blind Scian by one town; every one that can show on +its church records the baptism of a child so called has made its +claim. Yet Alcalá, who spells his name wrong, calling him +Carvantes, is certainly in the right, as the names of his father, +mother, brothers, and sisters are also given in its records, and +all doubt is now removed from the matter by the discovery of +Cervantes's manuscript statement of his captivity in Algiers and +his petition for employment in America, in both of which he +styles himself "Natural de Alcalá de Henares."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Having examined the +evidence, we considered ourselves justly entitled to all the +usual emotions in visiting the church of the parish, Santa +Maria</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font7"><b>312</b></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">la Mayor. It was +evening, and from a dozen belfries in the neighborhood came the +soft dreamy chime of silver-throated bells. In the little square +in front of the church a few families sat in silence on the +massive stone benches. A few beggars hurried by, too intent upon +getting home to supper to beg. A rural and a twilight repose lay +on everything. Only in the air, rosy with the level light, flew +out and greeted each other those musical voices of the bells rich +with the memories of all the days of Alcalá. The church +was not open, but we followed a sacristan in, and he seemed too +feeble-minded to forbid. It is a pretty church, not large nor +imposing, with a look of cosy comfort about it. Through the +darkness the high altar loomed before us, dimly lighted by a few +candles where the sacristans were setting up the properties for +the grand mass of the morrow,--Our Lady of the Snows. There was +much talk and hot discussion as to the placing of the boards and +the draperies, and the image of Our Lady seemed unmoved by words +unsuited to her presence. We know that every vibration of air +makes its own impression on the world of matter. So that the +curses of the sacristans at their work, the prayers</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-70.jpg" alt="cd1-70.jpg" class="c80"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5">THE BAPTISMAL FONT OF +CERVANTES, <b>ALCALÁ</b></span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">CERVANTES +313</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">of penitents at the +altar, the wailing of breaking hearts bowed on the pavement +through many years, are all recorded mysteriously, in these rocky +walls. This church is the illegible history of the parish. But of +all its ringing of bells, and swinging of censers, and droning of +psalms, and putting on and off of goodly raiment, the only show +that consecrates it for the world's pilgrimage is that humble +procession that came on the gth day of October, in the year of +Grace 1547, to baptize Roderick Cervantes's youngest child. There +could not be an humbler christening. Juan Pardo--John Gray--was +the sponsor, and the witnesses were "Bal-tazar Vázquez, +the sacristan, and I who baptized him and signed with my name," +says Mr. Bachelor Serrano, who never dreamed he was stumbling +into fame when he touched that pink face with the holy water and +called the child Miguel. It is my profound conviction that Juan +Pardo brought the baby himself to the church and took it home +again, screaming wrathfully; Neighbor' Pardo feeling a little +sheepish and mentally resolving never to do another good-natured +action as long as he lived.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">As for the +neophyte, he could not be blamed</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">314 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">for screaming and +kicking against the new existence he was entering, if the +instinct of genius gave him any hint of it. Between the font of +St. Mary's and the bier at St. Ildefonso's there was scarcely an +hour of joy waiting him in his long life, except that which comes +from noble and earnest work.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">His youth was +passed in the shabby privation of a poor gentleman's house; his +early talents attracted the attention of my Lord Aquaviva, the +papal legate, who took him back to Rome in his service; but the +high-spirited youth soon left the inglorious ease of the +cardinal's house to enlist as a private soldier in the sea-war +against the Turk. He fought bravely at Lepanto, where he was +three times wounded and his left hand crippled. Going home for +promotion, loaded with praise and kind letters from the generous +bastard, Don Juan of Austria, the true son of the Emperor Charles +and pretty Barbara Blumberg, he was captured with his brother by +the Moors, and passed five miserable years in slavery, never for +one instant submitting to his lot, but wearying his hostile fate +with constant struggles. He headed a dozen attempts at flight or +insurrection, and yet his thrifty owners</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">CERVANTES +315</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">would not kill him. +They thought a man who bore letters from a prince, and who +continued cock of his walk through years of servitude, would one +day bring a round ransom. At last the tardy day of his redemption +came, but not from the cold-hearted tyrant he had so nobly +served. The matter was presented to him by Cervantes's comrades, +but he would do nothing. So that Don Roderick sold his estate and +his sisters sacrificed their dowry to buy the freedom of the +captive brothers.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">They came back to +Spain still young enough to be fond of glory, and simple-hearted +enough to believe in the justice of the great. They immediately +joined the army and served in the war with Portugal. The elder +brother made his way and got some little promotion, but Miguel +got married and discharged, and wrote verses and plays, and took +a small office in Seville, and moved with the Court to +Valladolid; and kept his accounts badly, and was too honest to +steal, and so got into jail, and grew every year poorer and +wittier and better; he was a public amanuensis, a business agent, +a sub-tax-gatherer,--anything to keep his lean larder garnished +with scant ammunition against the wolf hunger. In these few lines +you have the pitiful</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">316 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">story of the life +of the greatest of Spaniards, up to his return to Madrid in 1606, +when he was nearly sixty years old.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">From this point his +history becomes clearer and more connected up to the time of his +death. He lived in the new-built suburb, erected on the site of +the gardens of the Duke of Lerma, first minister and favorite of +Philip III. It was a quarter much affected by artists and men of +letters, and equally so by ecclesiastics. The names of the +streets indicate the traditions of piety and art that still +hallow the neighborhood. Jesus Street leads you into the street +of Lope de Vega. Quevedo and Saint Augustine run side by side. In +the same neighborhood are the streets called Cervantes, Saint +Mary, and Saint Joseph, and just round the corner are the +Magdalen and the Love-of-God. The actors and artists of that day +were pious and devout madcaps. They did not abound in morality, +but they had of religion enough and to spare. Many of them were +members of religious orders, and it is this fact which has +procured us such accurate records of their history. All the +events in the daily life of the religious establishments were +carefully recorded, and the manuscript archives of the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-71.jpg" alt="cd1-71.jpg" class="c81"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5">HOUSE OF CERVANTES, +MADRID</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12">CERVANTES</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12">317</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">convents and +brotherhoods of that period are rich in materials for the +biographer.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">There was a special +reason for the sudden rise of religious brotherhoods among the +laity. The great schism of England had been fully completed under +Elizabeth. The devout heart of Spain was bursting under this +wrong, and they could think of no way to avenge it. They would +fain have roasted the whole heretical island, but the memory of +the Armada was fresh in men's minds, and the great Philip was +dead. There were not enough heretics in Spain to make it worth +while to waste time in hunting them. Philip could say as Narvaez, +on his death-bed, said to his confessor who urged him to forgive +his enemies, "Bless your heart, I have none. I have killed them +all." To ease their pious hearts, they formed confraternities all +over Spain, for the worship of the Host. They called themselves +"Unworthy Slaves of the Most Holy Sacrament." These grew at once +very popular in all classes. Artisans rushed in, and wasted half +their working days in processions and meetings. The severe Suarez +de Figueroa speaks savagely of the crowd of Narcissuses and +petits maitres (a word which is delicious in its Spanish dress of +peti-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">metres) who entered +the congregations simply to flutter about the processions in +brave raiment, to be admired of the multitude. But there were +other more serious members,--the politicians who joined to stand +well with the bigot court, and the devout believers who found +comfort and edification in worship. Of this latter class was +Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra, who joined the brotherhood in the +street of the Olivar in 1609. He was now sixty-two years old, and +somewhat infirm,--a time, as he said, when a man's salvation is +no joke. From this period to the day of his death he seemed to be +laboring, after the fashion of the age, to fortify his standing +in the other world. He adopted the habit of the Franciscans in +Alcalá in 1613, and formally professed in the Third Order +in 1616, three weeks before his death.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">There are those who +find the mirth and fun of his later works so inconsistent with +these ascetic professions, that they have been led to believe +Cervantes a bit of a hypocrite. But we cannot agree with such. +Literature was at that time a diversion of the great, and the +chief aim of the writer was to amuse. The best opinion of +scholars</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">CERVANTES +319</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">now is that +Rabelais, whose genius illustrated the preceding century, was a +man of serious and severe life, whose gaulish crudeness of style +and brilliant wit have been the cause of all the fables that +distort his personal history.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">No one can read +attentively even the Quixote without seeing how powerful an +influence was exerted by his religion even upon the noble and +kindly soul of Cervantes. He was a blind bigot and a devoted +royalist, like all the rest. The mean neglect of the Court never +caused his stanch loyalty to swerve. The expulsion of the Moors, +the crowning crime and madness of the reign of Philip III., found +in him a hearty advocate and defender. <i>Non facit monachum +cucullus,--</i>it was not his hood and girdle that made him a +monk; he was thoroughly saturated with their spirit before he put +them on. But he was the noblest courtier and the kindliest bigot +that ever flattered or persecuted.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">In 1610, the Count +of Lemos, who had in his grand and distant way patronized the +poet, was appointed Viceroy of Naples, and took with him to his +kingdom a brilliant following of Spanish</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">320 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">wits and scholars. +He refused the petition of the greatest of them all, however, and +to soften the blow gave him a small pension, which he continued +during the rest of Cervantes's life. It was a mere pittance, a +bone thrown to an old hound, but he took it and gnawed it with a +gratitude more generous than the gift. From this time forth all +his works were dedicated to the Lord of Lemos, and they form a +garland more brilliant and enduring than the crown of the Spains. +Only kind words to disguised fairies have ever been so +munificently repaid, as this young noble's pension to the old +genius.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">It certainly eased +somewhat his declining years. Relieving him from the necessity of +earning his daily crust, it gave him leisure to complete and +bring out in rapid succession the works which have made him +immortal. He had published the first part of Don Quixote in the +midst of his hungry poverty at Valladolid in 1605. He was then +fifty-eight, and all his works that survive are posterior to that +date. He built his monument from the ground up, in his old age. +The Persiles and Sigis-munda, the Exemplary Novels, and that most +masterly and perfect work, the Second Part of Quix-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">CERVANTES</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">321</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">ote, were written +by the flickering glimmer of a life burnt out.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">It would be +incorrect to infer that the scanty dole of his patron sustained +him in comfort. Nothing more clearly proves his straitened +circumstances than his frequent change of lodgings. Old men do +not move for the love of variety. We have traced him through six +streets in the last four years of his life. But a touching fact +is that they are all in the same quarter. It is understood that +his natural daughter and only child, Isabel de Saavedra, entered +the Convent of the Trinitarian nuns in the street of +Cantarranas--Singing Frogs--at some date unknown. All the +shifting and changing which Cervantes made in these embarrassed +years are within a small half-circle, whose centre is his grave +and the cell of his child. He fluttered about that little convent +like a gaunt old eagle about the cage that guards his callow +young.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Like Albert Duerer, +like Raphael and Van Dyck, he painted his own portrait at this +time with a force and vigor of touch which leaves little to the +imagination. As few people ever read the Exemplary Novels,--more +is the pity,--I will translate this passage from the +Prologue:--</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<img src="images/cd1-72.jpg" alt="cd1-72.jpg" class="c82"> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">322 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">"He whom you see +there with the aquiline face, chestnut hair, a smooth and open +brow, merry eyes, a nose curved but well proportioned, a beard of +silver which twenty years ago was of gold, long mustaches, a +small mouth, not too full of teeth, seeing he has but six, and +these in bad condition, a form of middle height, a lively color, +rather fair than brown, somewhat round-shouldered and not too +light on his feet; this is the face of the author of Galatea and +of Don Quixote de la Mancha, of him who made the Voyage to +Parnassus, and other works which are straying about without the +name of the owner: he is commonly called Miguel de Cervantes +Saavedra."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">There were, after +all, compensations in this evening of life. As long as his dropsy +would let him, he climbed the hilly street of the Olivar to say +his prayers in the little oratory. He passed many a cheerful hour +of gossip with Mother Francisca Romero, the independent superior +of the Trinitarian Convent, until the time when the Supreme +Council, jealous of the freedom of the good lady's life, walled +up the door which led from her house to her convent and cut her +off from her nuns. He sometimes dropped into the studios of +Carducho</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">CERVANTES +323</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">and Caxes, and one +of them made a sketch of him one fortunate day. He was friends +with many of the easy-going Bohemians who swarmed in the +quarter,--Cristóbal de Mesa, Quevedo, and Mendoza, whose +writings, Don Miguel says, are distinguished by the absence of +all that would bring a "blush to the cheek of a young +person,"--</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font9">"Por graves, puros, +castos y excelentes."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">In the same street +where Cervantes lived and died,the great Lope de Vega passed his +edifying old age. This phenomenon of incredible fecundity is one +of the mysteries of that time. Few men of letters have ever won +so marvellous a success in their own lives, few have been so +little read after death. The inscription on Lope's house records +that he is the author of two thousand comedies and twenty-one +million of verses. Making all possible deductions for Spanish +exaggeration, it must still be admitted that his activity and +fertility of genius were prodigious. In those days a play was +rarely acted more than two or three times, and he wrote nearly +all that were produced in Spain. He had driven all competitors +from the scene. Cervantes, when he published his collection of +plays, admitted the impossibility of getting a hearing in the +theatre</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">324 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">while this "monster +of nature" existed. There was a courteous acquaintance between +the two great poets. They sometimes wrote sonnets to each other, +and often met in the same oratories. But a grand seigneur like +Frey Lope could not afford to be intimate with a shabby genius +like brother Miguel. In his inmost heart he thought Don Quixote +rather low, and wondered what people could see in it. Cervantes, +recognizing the great gifts of De Vega, and, generously giving +him his full meed of praise, saw with clearer insight than any +man of his time that this deluge of prodigal and facile genius +would desolate rather than fructify the drama of Spain. What a +contrast in character and destiny between our dilapidated poet +and his brilliant neighbor across the way! The one rich, +magnificent, the poet of princes and a prince among poets, the +"Phoenix of Spanish Genius," in whose ashes there is no flame of +resurrection; the other, hounded through life by unmerciful +disaster, and using the brief respite of age to achieve an +enduring renown; the one, with his twenty millions of verses, has +a great name in the history of literature; but the other, with +his volume you can carry in your pocket, has caused the world to +call the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">CERVANTES</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">325</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">Castilian tongue +the language of Cervantes. We will not decide which lot is the +more enviable. But it seems a poet must choose. We have the high +authority of Sancho for saying,--</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font9 c42">"Para dar y tener +Seso ha menester."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">He is a bright boy +who can eat his cake and have it.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">In some incidents +of the closing scenes of these memorable lives there is a curious +parallelism. Lope de Vega and Cervantes lived and died in the +same street, now called the Calle de Cervantes, and were buried +in the same convent of the street now called Calle de Lope de +Vega. In this convent each had placed a beloved daughter, the +fruit of an early and unlawful passion. Isabel de Saavedra, the +child of sin and poverty, was so ignorant she could not sign her +name; while Lope's daughter, the lovely and gifted Marcela de +Carpió, was rich in the genius of her father and the +beauty of her mother, the high-born Maria de Lujan. Cervantes's +child glided from obscurity to oblivion no one knew when, and the +name she assumed with her spiritual vows is lost to tradition. +But the mystic espousals of the sister Marcela de San Felix to +the eldest son</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font16">326</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">of God--the +audacious phrase is of the father and priest Frey Lope--were +celebrated with princely pomp and luxury; grandees of Spain were +her sponsors; the streets were invaded with carriages from the +palace, the verses of the dramatist were sung in the service by +the Court tenor Florian, called the "Canary of Heaven;" and the +event celebrated in endless rhymes by the genteel poets of the +period.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">Rarely has a +lovelier sacrifice been offered on the altar of superstition. The +father, who had been married twice before he entered the +priesthood, and who had seen the folly of errant loves without +number, twitters in the most innocent way about the beauty and +the charm of his child, without one thought of the crime of +quenching in the gloom of the cloister the light of that rich +young life. After the lapse of more than two centuries we know +better than he what the world lost by that lifelong imprisonment. +The Marquis of Mo-lins, director of the Spanish Academy, was +shown by the ladies of the convent in this year of 1870 a volume +of manuscript poems from the hand of Sor Marcela, which prove her +to have been one of the most vigorous and original poets of the +time. They</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">CERVANTES +327</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c20">are chiefly +mystical and ecstatic, and full of the refined and spiritual +voluptuousness of a devout young heart whose pulsations had never +learned to beat for earthly objects. M. de Molins is preparing a +volume of these manuscripts; but I am glad to present one of the +seguidillas here, as an illustration of the tender and ardent +fantasies of virginal passion this Christian Sappho embroidered +upon the theme of her wasted prayers:--</span><br> +</p> + +<blockquote>Let them say to my Lover That here I lie!<br> + The thing of his pleasure, His slave am I.<br> + Say that I seek him<br> + Only for love,<br> + And welcome are tortures<br> + My passion to prove.<br> + Love giving gifts<br> + Is suspicious and cold; I have <i>all,</i> my Beloved,<br> + When thee I hold.<br> + Hope and devotion<br> + The good may gain, I am but worthy<br> + Of passion and pain.<br> + So noble a Lord<br> + None serves in vain,--<br> +</blockquote> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">328 CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<blockquote>For the pay of my love<br> +Is my love's sweet pain.<br> + I love thee, to love thee,<br> + No more I desire,<br> + By faith is nourished<br> +My love's strong fire.<br> + I kiss thy hands<br> + When I feel their blows,<br> + In the place of caresses<br> +Thou givest me woes.<br> + But in thy chastising<br> + Is joy and peace,<br> +O Master and Love,<br> + Let thy blows not cease!<br> + Thy beauty, Beloved,<br> +With scorn is rife!<br> + But I know that thou lovest me,<br> + Better than life.<br> + And because thou lovest me,<br> + Lover of mine,<br> +Death can but make me<br> + Utterly thine!<br> + I die with longing<br> + Thy face to see;<br> +Ah! sweet is the anguish<br> + Of death to me!</blockquote> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">CERVANTES</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">329</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">This is a long +digression, but it will be forgiven by those who feel how much of +beautiful and pathetic there is in the memory of this mute +nightingale dying with her passionate music all unheard in the +silence and shadows. It is to me the most purely poetic +association that clings about the grave of Cervantes.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15 c13">This vein of +mysticism in religion has been made popular by the recent +canonization of Saint Theresa, the ecstatic nun of Avila. In the +ceremonies that celebrated this event there were three prizes +awarded for odes to the new saint. Lope de Vega was chairman of +the committee of award, and Cervantes was one of the competitors. +The prizes it must be admitted were very tempting: first, a +silver pitcher; second, eight yards of camlet; and third, a pair +of silk stockings. We hope Cervantes's poem was not the best. We +would rather see him carry home the stuff for a new cloak and +pourpoint, or even those very attractive silk stockings for his +shrunk shank, than that silver pitcher which he was too Castilian +ever to turn to any sensible use. The poems are published in a +compendium of the time, without indicating the</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font0">330</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">successful ones; +and that of Cervantes contained these lines, which would seem +hazardous in this colder age, but which then were greatly +admired:--</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font9 c24">"Breaking all bolts +and bars, Comes the Divine One, sailing from the +stars,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font9 c24">Full in thy sight to +dwell: And those who seek him, shortening the road,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font9 c24">Come to thy blest +abode, And find him in thy heart or in thy cell."</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The anti-climax is +the poet's, and not mine.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">He knew he was +nearing his end, but worked desperately to retrieve the lost +years of his youth, and leave the world some testimony of his +powers. He was able to finish and publish the Second Part of +Quixote, and to give the last touches of the file to his favorite +work, the long pondered and cherished Persiles. This, he assures +Count Lemos, will be either the best or the worst work ever +produced by mortal man, and he quickly adds that it will not be +the worst. The terrible disease gains upon him, laying its cold +hand on his heart. He feels the pulsations growing slower, but +bates no jot of his cheerful philosophy. "With one foot in the +stirrup," he writes a last farewell of noble gratitude to the +viceroy of Naples. He makes his</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">CERVANTES +331</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">will, commanding +that his body be laid in the Convent of the Trinitarians. He had +fixed his departure for Sunday, the 17th of April, but waited six +days for Shakespeare, and the two greatest souls of that age went +into the unknown together, on the 23d of April, 1616.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The burial of +Cervantes was as humble as his christening. His bier was borne on +the shoulders of four brethren of his order. The upper half of +the coffin-lid was open and displayed the sharpened features to +the few who cared to see them: his right hand grasped a crucifix +with the grip of a soldier. Behind the grating was a sobbing nun +whose name in the world was Isabel de Saavedra. But there was no +scenic effort or display, such as a few years later in that same +spot witnessed the laying away of the mortal part of Vega-Carpio. +This is the last of Cervantes upon earth. He had fought a good +fight. A long life had been devoted to his country's service. In +his youth he had poured out his blood, and dragged the chains of +captivity. In his age he had accomplished a work which folds in +with Spanish fame the orb of the world. But he was laid in his +grave like a pauper, and the spot where he lay was quickly +forgotten. At that very</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">332</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">hour a vast +multitude was assisting at what the polished academician calls a +"more solemn ceremony," the bearing of the Virgin of the Atocha +to the Convent of San Domingo el Real, to see if peradventure +pleased by the airing, she would send rain to the parching +fields.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14 c13">The world speedily +did justice to his name. Even before his death it had begun. The +gentlemen of the French embassy who came to Madrid in 1615 to +arrange the royal marriages asked the chaplain of the Archbishop +of Toledo in his first visit many questions of Miguel Cervantes. +The chaplain happened to be a friend of the poet, and so replied, +"I know him. He is old, a soldier, a gentleman, and poor." At +which they wondered greatly. But after a while, when the whole +civilized world had trans-lated and knew the Quixote by heart, +the Spaniards began to be proud of the genius they had neglected +and despised. They quote with a certain fatuity the eulogy of +Montesquieu, who says it is the only book they have; "a +proposition" which Navarrete considers "inexact," and we agree +with Navarrete. He has written a good book himself. The Spaniards +have very frankly accepted the judgment of the world, and +although they do not read Cervantes</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">CERVANTES</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font0">333</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c13">much, they admire +him greatly, and talk about him more than is amusing. The Spanish +Academy has set up a pretty mural tablet on the facade of the +convent which shelters the tired bones of the unlucky immortal, +enjoying now their first and only repose. In the Plaza of the +Cortes a fine bronze statue stands facing the Prado, catching on +his chiselled curls and forehead the first rays of morning that +leap over the hill of the Retiro. It is a well-poised, energetic, +chivalrous figure, and Mr. Ger-mond de Lavigne has criticised it +as having more of the sabreur than the savant. The objection does +not seem well founded. It is not pleasant for the world to be +continually reminded of its meannesses. We do not want to see +Cervantes's days of poverty and struggle eternized in statues. We +know that he always looked back with fondness on his campaigning +days, and even in his decrepit age he called himself a soldier. +If there were any period in that troubled history that could be +called happy, surely it was the time when he had youth and valor +and hope as the companions of his toil. It would have been a +precious consolation to his cheerless age to dream that he could +stand in bronze, as we hope he may stand for centuries, in the +un-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font0">334</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12">CASTILIAN +DAYS</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font12 c20">changing bloom of +manhood, with the cloak and sword of a gentleman and soldier, +bathing his Olympian brow forever in the light of all the +mornings, and gazing, at evening, at the rosy reflex flushing the +east,--the memory of the day and the promise of the +dawn.</span><br> +</p> + +<img src="images/cd1-73.jpg" alt="cd1-73.jpg" class="c83"> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">INDEX</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">INDEX</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Adoration of the +Shepherds, Murillo's, 168.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Alcalá de +Henares, birthplace of Cervantes, 298; appearance of, 299, 300; +garrison of, 301; people of, 302; university of, 302-307; church +of Santa Maria la Mayor, 312.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Alcázar, +Toledo, vicissitudes of, 248, 249.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Alguaciles, part of, +in bull-fights, 97, 98.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Alonso VI., +uniformity of worship demanded by, 228; wall built by, around +Toledo, 245; Moorish mosque used by, 246.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Alonso VIII., statue +of, at Toledo,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font3"><b>122.</b></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">America, effect of +discovery of, 75;</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Spanish emigration +to, 147. American element, prominence of, in</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Madrid, +17.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Andalusians, in +Madrid, 8. Andrew, St., Murillo's painting of the</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">martyrdom of, +165.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Anglo-Saxons, +religious forms outgrown by, 126.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Annunciation, +Murillo's, 168. Aranda, Count, debt of Madrid to, 6,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">20.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Aranjuez, royal +palace of, 217, 218. Arjona, famous bull-fighter, no. Arrieros, +origin of name, 196. Art, development of, in Spain, +145;</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Spanish students of, +in Italy, 148;</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">foreign students of, +in Spain, 148;</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">various schools and +masters of, in</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Spain, 149; decline +of, 151. Ash Wednesday, a popular ceremony</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">of, 140. Austria, +House of, influence of, in</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Spain, 145; +portraits of Spanish</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">kings of, 158-160; +profligacy of</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Spanish kings of, +268, 269.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Baciocchi, anecdote +of, 43.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Banderilleros, part +of, in bull-fights, 103.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Bathing, dislike of, +66, 67; discouraged by Isabella the Catholic, 91.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Beggars, 117, 192, +211, 213, 234, 300.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Berruguete, carvings +of, 148.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Boisel, anecdote of +Segovia by, 207.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Borbon, Louisa +Carlota de, 200-202.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Borrachos, painting +of the, by Velazquez, 172, 173.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Bouillon,----de, +pension of, 278.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Breda, Surrender of, +painting by Velazquez, 169.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Bull-fights, vain +ettort to transplant, 90; royal attempts to abolish, 91; two +famous, 92; sacrifices made to attend, 93; danger from cowardly +bulls in, 102; play-bills of, 111,112; statistics of, 112; +defense of, 113; decadence of, 114; former splendors of, 115, +116. <i>See also</i> Alguaciles, Banderilleros, Chulos, Matadors, +Picadors.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Burial, lack of +ceremony attending, 55; heathen rites attending, 86; right of, +denied to Protestants, 273.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Burial of the +Sardine, an Ash Wednesday ceremony, 140.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Caballero, +Fernán, illiteracy of Spanish women approved by, +41.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Calderón, +decline of interest in masterpieces of, io.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Calomarde, Minister +of Ferdinand VII., 201, 202.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Capa, use of, 27, +28.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Capital cities, +reasons for choice of,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c85">3» 4-Carlos +V., Don, son of Philip II.,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c86">portrait of, 159; +character of, 268. Carlos VII., Don, portrait of, on</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c86">cigarette boxes, +25.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font0">338</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">INDEX</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Carnival, survival +of the true, in Madrid, 136; costumes of, 137, 138; outgrown by +the rest of the continent, 139; renewal of, in Lent, +140.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Carpió, +Marcela de, daughter of Lope de Vega, 325; gifts of, 326; poem +by, 327, 328.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Carreño, +portrait of Charles the Bewitched by, 160.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Castelar, Emilio, +portrait of, on cigarette boxes, 25; idea of liberty of, 88; +comments of, on Toledo, 216.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Castellana, winter +promenades in the,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font3"><b>21.</b></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c86">Catalans, in Madrid, +8.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c86">Catholic unity, +method of attaining, 229, 295-297.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c86">Celts, in Ireland +and in Iberia, 124.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c86">Cemeteries, +desolation of, in Spain, 131, '32.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c86">Cervantes, +birth-place of, 298, 309-311; burial-place cf, 299, 331; sketch +of life of, 314-316; religious life of, 318; bigotry of, 319; +pension of, 320; late works of, 320, 330; poverty of, 321; +daughter of, 321, 325; description of himself, 322; friends of, +322, 323; relations of, with Lope de Vega, 324; memorials to, +333-</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Chapels, in the +bull-rings, 105.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Charity, proceeds of +Spanish carnival for, 137.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Charles I., of +England, famous bullfight in honor of, 92.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Charles III., of +Spain, debt of Madrid to, 6; establishment of the Prado by, 20; +growing importance of work done by, 32.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Charles V. of +Germany, I. of Spain, art encouraged by, 146, 150; portrait of, +by Titian, 158; opening of coffin of, 265.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Charles the +Bewitched, portrait of, 160.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Chicago, compared +with Madrid, 7.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Christine, Queen of +Ferdinand VII., 201; meeting of, as Regent, with revolutionists, +202.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Christmas, +celebration of, by the proletariat, 132-135.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Church. <i>See</i> +Priesthood.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Church and State, +identified interests of, 69, 73, 75, 79, 84; movement favoring +separation of, 274.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Chulos, part of, in +bull-fights, 104.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Cicer, modern use of +the Roman, 37.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Cigarettes. +<i>See</i> Tobacco.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Claret, Padre, +46.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Claude, paintings +by, at Madrid, 182, 183.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Clergy. <i>See</i> +Priesthood.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Coello, Claudio, +altar-picture by, in Escorial, 262.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c87">Competition, for +public employment, 39- _</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Constitution of +1812, movement in favor of, 202; proclaimed by Christine, as +Regent, 203.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Corpus Christi, +festival of, 124, 125.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Costillares, famous +bull-fighter, 114.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Courbet, refusal of, +to be decorated, 172.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Courtesy, invariable +forms of, 49, 50.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Creoles, of the +Antilles, characteristics of, 16, 17.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Cuchares, famous +bull-fighter, m.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Daunoy, Madame, +observations of, 67; anecdote of Philip IV., told by, +268.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Dead, ceremonies in +memory of the, 131, 132.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Devil's Bridge, +Segovian legend of, 210.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Domesticity, strong +feature of Spanish life, 33, 34-</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Drama, French +influence on, in Madrid, 10.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Dream of the Roman +Gentleman, 168.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Diirer, Albert, +paintings by, at Madrid, 182.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Dyck, Sir Anthony +van, paintings by, at Madrid, 185, 186.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Egas, Enrique de, +work of, in Toledo,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">247. Elizabeth +Farnese, wife of Philip V.,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">200. Elizabeth, St., +ol Hungary, Murillo's,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">168, 169. Epiphany, +farce performed by the</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">lowest orders on eve +of the, 135;</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">celebration in +burgher society, 136.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">INDEX</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">339</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Escorial, reasons +for building, 5, 255; situation of, 257; form of, 258; church of, +259-265; reliquary of, 261; miraculous wafer of, 262; pictures +of, 263; crypt of, 264, 265; library of, 269; schools of, 271; +teachings of, 276.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Escovedo, Juan, +aqueduct of Segovia repaired by, 210.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Españolismo, +64, 118.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Eugene, St., first +cathedral of Toledo built by, 222.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Eugenic, empress of +the French, belief of, in relics, 43.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Fairs, street, +129-131.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Family life. +<i>See</i> Domesticity; Parental discipline.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Family names. +<i>See</i> Names, family.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Fede, Lucrezia, +portrait of, 178.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Ferdinand VII., +famous bull-fight given by, 92; establishment of Madrid gallery +by, 152; decree in favor of Don Carlos revoked by, +201.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Festival of Bulls, +92.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Feudal taxes, +continued payment of, 63, 64.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Forestallers. +<i>See</i> Speculators.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Forman, Helen, wife +of Rubens, 184.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Frascuelo, +bull-fighter, 104, 115.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Freedom of the +press, 273, 274.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Freedom of worship, +85.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">French language, the +missionary of mental equality, 12.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Fritters, +consumption of, during Verbena of St. John, 127, 128.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Frugality of the +Spaniards, 38.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Gallicians, in +Madrid, 7, 26.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Garbanzos, great use +of, 37.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Giordano, Luca, +imitation of Raphael and Rubens by, 162; vast number of pictures +by, 163; frescoes by, in church of the Escorial, 260, +262.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Gloria, Titian's, at +Madrid, 129, 180.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Golden Key, the +manual of confession, 46.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Good Friday, +observance of, 141.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Goths, wall built +by, around Toledo, 245.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Government +positions, competition for, 39.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Grain, manner of +threshing, 193.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Granja, La, castle +of Philip V., 6; situation of, 189; approach to, 197, 198; +gardens of, 199; history of, 200-202; fountains of, 204, 205; +interior of, 206.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Graveyards. +<i>See</i> Cemeteries.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Gutiérrez, +Miss, Spanish actress, 281.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Gypsy +fortune-tellers, Murillo's, 167,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Henry of Trastamara +(Henry II., of</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Castile), 211. +Holidays, frequency of, 117; political,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">118. <i>See also</i> +Corpus Christi;</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Fairs; St. John, +Verbena of; San</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Isidro.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Holofernes, +paintings of death of, 162. Holy Family, Giordano's painting +of,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">162; Murillo's, 166. +Holy Thursday, observance of, 141. Honor, Spanish idea of, 71; +effect of,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">81, 83. Horses, use +of, in bull-fights, 94, 99-</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">103.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c88">Hospitality, Moorish +origin of Spanish, 50.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Ildefonso, San, +visit of the Virgin to, 225, 226; visit of Santa Leocadia to, +227; burial-place of, 244.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c89">Illo, Pepe, famous +bull-fighter, 90, "4-</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c86">Imperialism, Spanish +expectation of, in America, 191.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c86">Individuality, +intense feeling of, 34; expression of, 73.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c86">Inquisition, old +palace of the, Madrid, 31.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c86">Isabella I., the +Catholic, opposed to bathing and bull-fights, 91; chapel to San +Isidro built by, 121; church of San Juan de los Reyes finished +by, 237-</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Isabella II. of +Bourbon, expulsion of, 85; bull-fight in honor of, 92; +recognition of rights of, to the throne, 201.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Isidro, San, +festival of, 120, 122-124 i miracles of, 121; statue of, at +Toledo, 122.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font5 c84">Italy, Spanish +emigration to, 147.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font0">340</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font15">INDEX</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Jacob, Ribera's +painting of Ladder-Dream of, 174.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Jews, Spanish hatred +of, 229, 288; mediaeval synagogues built by, in Toledo, +236.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">John, St., Verbena +of, 127.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Jordaens, painting +by, in the Belvedere, 172.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Juanes, Juan de, +paintings by, 164.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Juni, Juan de, +painting by, at Segovia,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font3"><b>212.</b></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c90">King, divine +attributes of Spanish, 74, 77, 80.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Laboring classes, in +Madrid, 37; revels of, at Christmas, 134; at Epiphany, +135.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c86">Lagartijo, +inscription on sword of, no.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c86">Language, democracy +of, 256.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c86">Last Supper, by +Juanes, 164; by Titian, 179.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c86">Latin races, demand +of outward religious forms by, 125.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c86">La Torre, Duchess +of, of Cuban origin, 17-</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c87">Lemos, Count of, +Cervantes pensioned by, 320-</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Lent, former +ceremonies of, 140, 141; present observances of, 141.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Leocadia, Santa, +visit of, to San Ildefonso, 227; burial-place of, 244.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Leonardo, Mona Lisa +of, at Madrid, 178.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Lepanto, Titian's +picture of the Battle of, 181.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Lerma, Duke of, +power of, 77.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Liberti, Van Dyck's +portrait of, 185.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Lisbon, superiority +of, over Madrid as a capital, 5.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">London, only +possible capital for England, 3.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Lorraine, Claude. +<i>See</i> Claude.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Luna, Alvaro de, +burial-place of, 225.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Machinery, Spanish +scorn for improved, 193, 194.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Madrid, choice of, +as capital of Spain, 3-5; natural characteristics of, 5; debt of, +to Charles III., 6; inferior natural attractions of, 6, 7; +best</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">point to study +Spanish life, 7; for-eign population of, 8; foreign influence on +music and drama of, 9, 10; on manners of, 11; on language +of,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">12; characteristics +of best society of,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">13: social schisms +in, 14; social life of Tertulias of, 15, 16; Creoles of, 16 > +American element in, 17; unattractive environs of, 17; +satisfaction of inhabitants with, 19; Prado of, 20; winter +promenades in the Castellana of, 2i; summer evenings in the Salon +of, 21, 22; differing effect of climate of, on men and women, 23, +24, 27; vagabonds of, 24; match-venders of, 25; water-venders of, +26; Moors' quarter, 29; Plaza Mayor, 29, 30; Puerta del Sol. 37; +picture-gallery of, 145, 150, 152-154; names of streets of, +316.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Magdalen, a possible +painting by Tobar, 161.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Maria del Salto, +legend of, 213.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Maria Louisa, wife +of Charles IV., anecdote of, 262.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Mario, Spanish +comedian, 282.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Market-place, +Madrid, 29.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Marriage, prudence +governing, 39, 40.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Mary of the +Conception, Murillo's, 166, 167.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Masses, for the +dead, 56.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Matadors, part of, +in bull-fights, 104, 107, 108; rewards of, 109, in; improvidence +of, in.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Match-venders, +prevalence of, in Madrid, 25.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Medical science, ban +upon, 53.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Medina Celi, Dukes +of, periodical claims to throne by, 65.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Mendicancy. +<i>See</i> Beggars.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Mendoza, Cardinal, +Military College of Santa Cruz, Toledo, built by, 247.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Meninas, Las, by +Velazquez, 170-172.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Military College of +Santa Cruz, Toledo, 247.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Mining, effect of +tradition on, 62.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Miracle-plays, +account of one, 278-293; staging of, 280, 282, 284, 290, 292; +appearance of Christ in, 286; horrible realism in, 287, 291; +introduction of the Wandering Jew into, 289; absence of Apostles +from, 293; per-</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">INDEX</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">341</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">formance of, in +country towns, 294; character of audience, 294.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Miracles, +53.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Missionaries, +Anglo-Saxon, in Spain, 272.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Molina, Rafael, +bull-fighter, 115.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Mona Lisa, +Leonardo's, at Madrid, 178.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Monarchs, modern, +love of, for solitude, 187.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Monarchy, perfect +form of, in Spain,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6">71</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Montes, Paco, famous +matador, 105, 114, 116.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Moors, expulsion of +(1609), 79; streets laid out by, in Toledo, 221; toleration of, +228; banishment of, 229.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Moors' quarter, +Madrid, 29.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Morales, paintings +by, 164.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Muleteers, profanity +of, 195-197.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Murat, +commemorations of slaughter by, 118-120.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Murillo, paintings +by, in Madrid Museum, 165-168; in Academy of San Fernando, 168, +169; character of, 174, 175; kindness of Velazquez to, +176.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Music, French +influence on, in Madrid, 9.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6">Names, Christian, 44; +family, 48.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c86">Olivares, Count-duke +of, 80. Ontañon, Gil de, Cathedral of Segovia</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c86">built by, 212. +Oxford, Lady, Van Dyck's portrait of.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c86">185.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Padilla, John of, +fate of, 221. Palma, the Klder, Titian's Descent</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">from the Cross +finished by, 181. Panaderia, Madrid, 30. Pantoja, portrait of +Philip II. by,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6">159-</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c87">Parental discipline, +among Spaniards, 35, 36.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Paris, logical +capital of France, 3; influence of, on Spanish music and drama, +9, 10.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Peñaranda, +Duchess of, Salon of, 14.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Pérez, +architect of Cathedral of Toledo, 222.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Perla, La, history +of Raphael's, 177.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Peter of Champagne, +paintings <b>of, in</b> Seville, 148.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Peter the Great, +choice of capital by, 4.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Philip II., court +established at Madrid by, 4, 5; brutalities of, 76; protection of +art by, 150; portraits of, 159; part of, in Battle of St. +Quen-tin, 253; marriage of, to Elizabeth of France, 254; building +of Escorial by, 255, 256; relics collected by, 261; manner of +death of, 266; powerful personality of, 267.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Philip III., statue +of, at Madrid, 30; portraits of, 157, 158, 159.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Philip IV., Festival +of Bulls given by, 92; portrait of, 159, 160; decoration of +Velazquez by, 172; last true king of the old school, +268.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Philip V., building +undertaken by, 6; bull-fights abolished by, 91; building of La +Granja by, 189; burial-place of, 200; debts of, 206.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Philip of Burgundy, +carvings of, 148.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Phoenix, John, +quoted, 22.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Picadors, part of, +in bull-fights, 99, 100: anxiety of, 101.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Plaza de Toros, +Madrid, 94, <i>et seq.</i></span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Plaza del Oriente, +Madrid, palace of Philip V. in, 6.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Plaza Mayor, Madrid, +present character of, 29; used as Christmas marketplace, +133.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Political science, +small progress in, 82, 83-</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Prado, appearance of +the word in other languages, 20; scene of Verbena of St. John, +127-129.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Priesthood, respect +shown to, 46; power of, 69,70, 77, 85; methods of, +296.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Prim, General, wife +of, 17; signatures used by, 49.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Profanity, +commonness of, 41, 195, 196.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Protestants, Spanish +hatred of, 230, 231, growing toleration for, 272,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c91">273-Puerta del Sol, +Madrid, 31.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c90">Rabelais, opinion of +scholars regarding, 319.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">342</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">INDEX</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Raphael, pain tings +by, in Madrid, 176, 177.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Rebecca, Murillo's +painting of, 165.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6">Reformation, Spain not +penetrated by, 75</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c86">Relics, declining +virtue of, 54.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c86">Religious forms, +regard for, 42, 82;</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c86">necessity of, for +Latin mind, 125; outgrown by Anglo-Saxons, 126.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c86">Religious orders, +reason for sudden rise of, 317.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6">Religious wars, result +of, in Spain, 68, 75</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Republican party, in +Spain, 87.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Retiro Garden, music +in the, 22,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Retz, Cardinal de, +54.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Ribera, the +Prometheus of, 156; Ladder-Dream of Jacob by, 174; +characteristics of, 174; early life of,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6">174, 175-</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Romans, relics of, +in Toledo, 244, 245.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Rome, predestined +capital of Italy, 3.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Romero, famous +bull-fighter, 114, 116. Rubens, paintings by, at Madrid, +183-185.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Rubrica, importance +of, 66, 190.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Saavedra, Isabel de, +daughter of Cervantes, 321, 325.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Sacred words, common +use of, 45. St. Andrew's, parish church of, Madrid, 29. St. +Quentin, part of Philip II. in the Battle of, 253, 254. +Salamanca, better fitted for capital than Madrid, 5.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Salome, Titian's, at +Madrid, 180.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Salon del Prado, +summer evening walks in the, 21,22. Samuel Ben Levi, synagogue +built by, in Toledo, 236.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">San Cervantes, +castle of, Toledo, 250. San Cristo de la Luz, church of, Toledo, +246.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c92">San Cristo de la +Vega, church of, Toledo, 244, 245.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c86">San Fernando, +Academy of, Murillo's paintings in, 168.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c86">San Gines, Lenten +scourges in church of, 140.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c86">San Ildefonso, royal +palace of. <i>See</i> Granja, La.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">San Juan de los +Reyes, church of, Toledo, 237-241.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">San Lorenzo el Real, +monastery of. <i>See</i> Escorial.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Santa Maria la +Mayor, church of, Alcalá, 312.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Sanzio, Raffaello. +<i>See</i> Raphael.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Sarto, Andrea del, +paintings by, in Madrid, 178.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Segovia, historic +interest of, 206; present poverty of, 207; monuments of, 208; +aqueduct of, 208-211; Moorish Alcázar of, 211; cathedral +of, 212, 213.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Sereno, duties of +the, 61.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Servants, Spanish, +50.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Seville, superior +fitness for a capital, 5.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Shrines, virtues of, +54.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Smoking. <i>See</i> +Tobacco.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Solitude, love of +modern monarchs for, 187.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Spain, growth of, +74; decline of, 77, 79; intellectual life of, in the 17th +century, 78; loss of American Colonies by, 81; small progress of +political science in, 82, 83; freedom of worship in, 85, 86; +spirit of religious inquiry in, 87; Republican party in, 87; +development of art in, 145-149.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Spaniards, +domesticity of, 33, 34; intense individuality of, 34, 73; family +quarrels among, 34, 35; parental discipline, 35; life of middle +and lower classes, 36, 37; frugality of, 38; competition for +government positions among, 39; outward forms of religion +observed by, 42, 82; use of sacred words by, 45; little illness +among lower classes of, 52; domination of the Church over, 69, +70; idea of honor among, 71, 72, 81-83; emigration of, 147, 148. +<i>See also</i> Women.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Spanish Academy, +plays produced by members of, 10, 11.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Spasimo di Sicilia, +history of Raphael's, 177.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Speculators in +theatre tickets, 279, 280.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Stephen, St., +pictures illustrating martyrdom of, by Juanes, 164.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Street-cleaning, +objections to, 66.</span><br> +</p> + +<hr><br> +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">INDEX</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font14">343</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Suburbs, value of, +to great cities, 17, 18.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Superlatives, +Spanish use of, 144.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Superstitions, +ruling, of the Spanish mind, 68, 81.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Synagogues, of +Toledo, 236.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Tandem driving, a +survival, 66.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Tato, El, famous +bull-fighter, 110, 111.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Taxes, feudal, +continued payment of, 63, 64.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Tertulias, social +life among, 15, 16.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Theotocopouli, +George, chapel built by, 148, 223.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Threshing, manner +of, 193.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Tintoret, paintings +by, in Madrid gallery, 162; sketch of the Paradise of, 181; +paintings by, in Escorial, 263.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Titian, protected by +Charles V., 146; portrait of Charles V. by, 158; of Philip II., +159; paintings by, in Madrid, 179-181; in the Escorial, +263.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Titles, slight use +of, 48.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Tobacco, effect of, +on men of Madrid, 23, 47; constant use of, 26.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Tobar, possible +painting by, 161.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Toledo, better +fitted than Madrid for capital, 5; Castelar's comment on, 216; +approach to, 218; streets of, 219; former population of, 220; +Cathedral of, 221-229; Mozarabic Chapel of, 228; architectural +beauties of, 231, 232; beggars of, 234; synagogues of, 236; +church of San Juan de los Reyes, 237-241; other churches of, +244-246; old walls of, 245; Military College of Santa Cruz, 247; +Alcázar of, 248, 249; castle of San Cervantes, +250.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Toleration, growth +of, in Spain, 272-274.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Topete, Admiral, of +Mexican origin,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6">17-</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Torrigiani, fate of, +148, 149.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Trajan, aqueduct of +Segovia built by, 209.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Travel, +disinclination of the Madrileños to, 19,</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Trinitarians, +Convent of the, present use of, 31; visits of Cervantes to 321, +322.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Jnited States, +foreign discussion <b>of</b> constitutional system of, +191.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c93">Vagabonds, halcyon +days of, in Madrid, 24.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Valentians, in +Madrid, 8, 26.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Van Dyck. <i>See</i> +Dyck, Sir Anthony van.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Vega, Lope de, +decline of interest in masterpieces of, 10; marvellous industry +of, 323; relations of, with Cervantes, 324; daughter of, 325, +326.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Velazquez, paintings +by, in Madrid gallery, 156, 157, 160, 169-173; character of, 174, +175; kindness of, to Murillo, 176; painting by, in Escorial, +263.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Venus, two pictures +of, by Titian, at Madrid, 180.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Veronese, paintings +by, at Madrid, 182.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Vervain, former +hunting of, 127.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Vesalius, +persecution of, 53.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Vienna, natural +capital of Austria, 3.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Villalba, +192.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Vinci, Leonardo da. +<i>See</i> Leonardo.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Virgen del Pez, La, +Raphael's, 177.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Wandering Jew, +introduction of, into Spanish miracle-play, 289.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Washington, not a +natural capital, 4.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Water-venders, in +Madrid, 26.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Wheelbarrows, +Spanish use of, 63.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Wien. <i>See</i> +Vienna.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Women, Spanish, +Asturiano in Madrid, 7, 8; charms of, 13, 14; physical +characteristics of, 23; small education of, 40; coarseness of +expression among, 41; penances performed by, 42; Christian names +of, 44; piety of, 45; natural superiority of, 47; retention of +maiden name by, after marriage, 48.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c84">Ximenes, Cardinal, +Moorish baths destroyed by, 67; portrait of, in University of +Alcalá, 305; founder of the university, 306.</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6 c92">Yankee, the, of the +Spanish carnival, 137-</span><br> +</p> + +<p class="paragraph"><span class="font6">Zurbaran, painting by, +156.</span><br> +</p> + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Castilian Days, by John Hay + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CASTILIAN DAYS *** + +***** This file should be named 7470-h.htm or 7470-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/7/4/7/7470/ + +Produced by Eric Eldred and David Widger + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Castilian Days + +Author: John Hay + +Release Date: February, 2005 [EBook #7470] +Last Updated: August 24, 2012 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CASTILIAN DAYS *** + + + + +Produced by Eric Eldred + + + + + + +CASTILIAN DAYS + +By John Hay + + +Published November 1903 + + + + +PUBLISHERS' NOTE + + +In this Holiday Edition of _Castilian Days_ it has been thought +advisable to omit a few chapters that appeared in the original edition. +These chapters were less descriptive than the rest of the book, and not +so rich in the picturesque material which the art of the illustrator +demands. Otherwise, the text is reprinted without change. The +illustrations are the fruit of a special visit which Mr. Pennell has +recently made to Castile for this purpose. + +BOSTON, AUTUMN, 1903 + + + + +LIST OF CONTENTS + + +MADRID AL FRESCO + +SPANISH LIVING AND DYING + +INFLUENCE OF TRADITION IN SPANISH LIFE + +TAUROMACHY + +RED-LETTER DAYS + +AN HOUR WITH THE PAINTERS + +A CASTLE IN THE AIR + +THE CITY OF THE VISIGOTHS + +THE ESCORIAL + +A MIRACLE PLAY + +THE CRADLE AND THE GRAVE OF CERVANTES + + + + +MADRID AL FRESCO + + +Madrid is a capital with malice aforethought. Usually the seat of +government is established in some important town from the force of +circumstances. Some cities have an attraction too powerful for the court +to resist. There is no capital of England possible but London. Paris is +the heart of France. Rome is the predestined capital of Italy in spite +of the wandering flirtations its varying governments in different +centuries have carried on with Ravenna, or Naples, or Florence. You can +imagine no Residenz for Austria but the Kaiserstadt,--the gemuthlich +Wien. But there are other capitals where men have arranged things and +consequently bungled them. The great Czar Peter slapped his imperial +court down on the marshy shore of the Neva, where he could look westward +into civilization and watch with the jealous eye of an intelligent +barbarian the doings of his betters. Washington is another specimen of +the cold-blooded handiwork of the capital builders. We shall think +nothing less of the _clarum et venerabile nomen_ of its founder if we +admit he was human, and his wishing the seat of government nearer to +Mount Vernon than Mount Washington sufficiently proves this. But Madrid +more plainly than any other capital shows the traces of having been set +down and properly brought up by the strong hand of a paternal +government; and like children with whom the same regimen has been +followed, it presents in its maturity a curious mixture of lawlessness +and insipidity. + +Its greatness was thrust upon it by Philip II. Some premonitory symptoms +of the dangerous honor that awaited it had been seen in preceding +reigns. Ferdinand and Isabella occasionally set up their pilgrim +tabernacle on the declivity that overhangs the Manzanares. Charles V. +found the thin, fine air comforting to his gouty articulations. But +Philip II. made it his court. It seems hard to conceive how a king who +had his choice of Lisbon, with its glorious harbor and unequalled +communications; Seville, with its delicious climate and natural beauty; +and Salamanca and Toledo, with their wealth of tradition, splendor of +architecture, and renown of learning, should have chosen this barren +mountain for his home, and the seat of his empire. But when we know this +monkish king we wonder no longer. He chose Madrid simply because it was +cheerless and bare and of ophthalmic ugliness. The royal kill-joy +delighted in having the dreariest capital on earth. After a while there +seemed to him too much life and humanity about Madrid, and he built the +Escorial, the grandest ideal of majesty and ennui that the world has +ever seen. This vast mass of granite has somehow acted as an anchor that +has held the capital fast moored at Madrid through all succeeding years. + +It was a dreary and somewhat shabby court for many reigns. The great +kings who started the Austrian dynasty were too busy in their world +conquest to pay much attention to beautifying Madrid, and their weak +successors, sunk in ignoble pleasures, had not energy enough to indulge +the royal folly of building. When the Bourbons came down from France +there was a little flurry of construction under Philip V., but he never +finished his palace in the Plaza del Oriente, and was soon absorbed in +constructing his castle in cloud-land on the heights of La Granja. The +only real ruler the Bourbons ever gave to Spain was Charles III., and to +him Madrid owes all that it has of architecture and civic improvement. +Seconded by his able and liberal minister, Count Aranda, who was +educated abroad, and so free from the trammels of Spanish ignorance and +superstition, he rapidly changed the ignoble town into something like a +city. The greater portion of the public buildings date from this active +and beneficent reign. It was he who laid out the walks and promenades +which give to Madrid almost its only outward attraction. The Picture +Gallery, which is the shrine of all pilgrims of taste, was built by him +for a Museum of Natural Science. In nearly all that a stranger cares to +see, Madrid is not an older city than Boston. + +There is consequently no glory of tradition here. There are no +cathedrals. There are no ruins. There is none of that mysterious and +haunting memory that peoples the air with spectres in quiet towns like +Ravenna and Nuremberg. And there is little of that vast movement of +humanity that possesses and bewilders you in San Francisco and New York. +Madrid is larger than Chicago; but Chicago is a great city and Madrid a +great village. The pulsations of life in the two places resemble each +other no more than the beating of Dexter's heart on the home-stretch is +like the rising and falling of an oozy tide in a marshy inlet. + +There is nothing indigenous in Madrid. There is no marked local color. +It is a city of Castile, but not a Castilian city, like Toledo, which +girds its graceful waist with the golden Tagus, or like Segovia, +fastened to its rock in hopeless shipwreck. + +But it is not for this reason destitute of an interest of its own. By +reason of its exceptional history and character it is the best point in +Spain to study Spanish life. It has no distinctive traits itself, but it +is a patchwork of all Spain. Every province of the Peninsula sends a +contingent to its population. The Gallicians hew its wood and draw its +water; the Asturian women nurse its babies at their deep bosoms, and +fill the promenades with their brilliant costumes; the Valentians carpet +its halls and quench its thirst with orgeat of chufas; in every street +you shall see the red bonnet and sandalled feet of the Catalan; in every +cafe, the shaven face and rat-tail chignon of the Majo of Andalusia. If +it have no character of its own, it is a mirror where all the faces of +the Peninsula may sometimes be seen. It is like the mockingbird of the +West, that has no song of its own, and yet makes the woods ring with +every note it has ever heard. + +Though Madrid gives a picture in little of all Spain, it is not all +Spanish. It has a large foreign population. Not only its immediate +neighbors, the French, are here in great numbers,--conquering so far +their repugnance to emigration, and living as gayly as possible in the +midst of traditional hatred,--but there are also many Germans and +English in business here, and a few stray Yankees have pitched their +tents, to reinforce the teeth of the Dons, and to sell them ploughs and +sewing-machines. Its railroads have waked it up to a new life, and the +Revolution has set free the thought of its people to an extent which +would have been hardly credible a few years ago. Its streets swarm with +newsboys and strangers,--the agencies that are to bring its people into +the movement of the age. + +It has a superb opera-house, which might as well be in Naples, for all +the national character it has; the court theatre, where not a word of +Cas-tilian is ever heard, nor a strain of Spanish music. Even +cosmopolite Paris has her grand opera sung in French, and easy-going +Vienna insists that Don Juan shall make love in German. The champagny +strains of Offenbach are heard in every town of Spain oftener than the +ballads of the country. In Madrid there are more _pilluelos_ who whistle +_Bu qui s'avance_ than the Hymn of Riego. The Cancan has taken its place +on the boards of every stage in the city, apparently to stay; and the +exquisite jota and cachucha are giving way to the bestialities of the +casino cadet. It is useless perhaps to fight against that hideous orgie +of vulgar Menads which in these late years has swept over all nations, +and stung the loose world into a tarantula dance from the Golden Horn to +the Golden Gate. It must have its day and go out; and when it has +passed, perhaps we may see that it was not so utterly causeless and +irrational as it seemed; but that, as a young American poet has +impressively said, "Paris was proclaiming to the world in it somewhat of +the pent-up fire and fury of her nature, the bitterness of her heart, +the fierceness of her protest against spiritual and political +repression. It is an execration in rhythm,--a dance of fiends, which +Paris has invented to express in license what she lacks in liberty." + +This diluted European, rather than Spanish, spirit may be seen in most +of the amusements of the politer world of Madrid. They have classical +concerts in the circuses and popular music in the open air. The theatres +play translations of French plays, which are pretty good when they are +in prose, and pretty dismal when they are turned into verse, as is more +frequent, for the Spanish mind delights in the jingle of rhyme. The fine +old Spanish drama is vanishing day by day. The masterpieces of Lope and +Calderon, which inspired all subsequent playwriting in Europe, have sunk +almost utterly into oblivion. The stage is flooded with the washings of +the Boulevards. Bad as the translations are, the imitations are worse. +The original plays produced by the geniuses of the Spanish Academy, for +which they are crowned and sonneted and pensioned, are of the kind upon +which we are told that gods and men and columns look austerely. + +This infection of foreign manners has completely gained and now controls +what is called the best society of Madrid. A soiree in this circle is +like an evening in the corresponding grade of position in Paris or +Petersburg or New York in all external characteristics. The toilets are +by Worth; the beauties are coiffed by the deft fingers of Parisian +tiring-women; the men wear the penitential garb of Poole; the music is +by Gounod and Verdi; Strauss inspires the rushing waltzes, and the +married people walk through the quadrilles to the measures of Blue Beard +and Fair Helen, so suggestive of conjugal rights and duties. As for the +suppers, the trail of the Neapolitan serpent is over them all. Honest +eating is a lost art among the effete denizens of the Old World. +Tantalizing ices, crisped shapes of baked nothing, arid sandwiches, and +the feeblest of sugary punch, are the only supports exhausted nature +receives for the shock of the cotillon. I remember the stern reply of a +friend of mine when I asked him to go with me to a brilliant +reception,--"No! Man liveth not by biscuit-glace alone!" His heart was +heavy for the steamed cherry-stones of Harvey and the stewed terrapin of +Augustin. + +The speech of the gay world has almost ceased to be national. Every one +speaks French sufficiently for all social requirements. It is sometimes +to be doubted whether this constant use of a foreign language in +official and diplomatic circles is a cause or effect of paucity of +ideas. It is impossible for any one to use another tongue with the ease +and grace with which he could use his own. You know how tiresome the +most charming foreigners are when they speak English. A fetter-dance is +always more curious than graceful. Yet one who has nothing to say can +say it better in a foreign language. If you must speak nothing but +phrases, Ollendorff's are as good as any one's. Where there are a dozen +people all speaking French equally badly, each one imagines there is a +certain elegance in the hackneyed forms. I know of no other way of +accounting for the fact that clever people seem stupid and stupid people +clever when they speak French. This facile language thus becomes the +missionary of mental equality,--the principles of '89 applied to +conversation. All men are equal before the phrase-book. + +But this is hypercritical and ungrateful. We do not go to balls to hear +sermons nor discuss the origin of matter. If the young grandees of Spain +are rather weaker in the parapet than is allowed in the nineteenth +century, if the old boys are more frivolous than is becoming to age, and +both more ignorant of the day's doings than is consistent with even +their social responsibilities, in compensation the women of this circle +are as pretty and amiable as it is possible to be in a fallen world. The +foreigner never forgets those piquant, _mutines_ faces of Andalusia and +those dreamy eyes of Malaga,--the black masses of Moorish hair and the +blond glory of those graceful heads that trace their descent from Gothic +demigods. They were not very learned nor very witty, but they were +knowing enough to trouble the soundest sleep. Their voices could +interpret the sublimest ideas of Mendelssohn. They knew sufficiently of +lines and colors to dress themselves charmingly at small cost, and their +little feet were well enough educated to bear them over the polished +floor of a ball-room as lightly as swallows' wings. The flirting of +their intelligent fans, the flashing of those quick smiles where eyes, +teeth, and lips all did their dazzling duty, and the satin twinkling of +those neat boots in the waltz, are harder to forget than things better +worth remembering. + +Since the beginning of the Revolutionary regime there have been serious +schisms and heart-burnings in the gay world. The people of the old +situation assumed that the people of the new were rebels and traitors, +and stopped breaking bread with them. But in spite of this the palace +and the ministry of war were gay enough,--for Madrid is a city of +office-holders, and the White House is always easy to fill, even if two +thirds of the Senate is uncongenial. The principal fortress of the post +was the palace of the spirituelle and hospitable lady whose society name +is Duchess of Penaranda, but who is better known as the mother of the +Empress of the French. Her salon was the weekly rendezvous of the +irreconcilable adherents of the House of Bourbon, and the aristocratic +beauty that gathered there was too powerful a seduction even for the +young and hopeful partisans of the powers that be. There was nothing +exclusive about this elegant hospitality. Beauty and good manners have +always been a passport there. I have seen a proconsul of Prim talking +with a Carlist leader, and a fiery young democrat dancing with a +countess of Castile. + +But there is another phase of society in Madrid which is altogether +pleasing,--far from the domain of politics or public affairs, where +there is no pretension or luxury or conspiracy,--the old-fashioned +Tertulias of Spain. There is nowhere a kindlier and more unaffected +sociableness. The leading families of each little circle have one +evening a week on which they remain at home. Nearly all their friends +come in on that evening. There is conversation and music and dancing. +The young girls gather together in little groups,--not confined under +the jealous guard of their mothers or chaperons,--and chatter of the +momentous events of the week--their dresses, their beaux, and their +books. Around these compact formations of loveliness skirmish light +bodies of the male enemy, but rarely effect a lodgment. A word or a +smile is momently thrown out to meet the advance; but the long, +desperate battle of flirtation, which so often takes place in America in +discreet corners and outlying boudoirs, is never seen in this +well-organized society. The mothers in Israel are ranged for the evening +around the walls in comfortable chairs, which they never leave; and the +colonels and generals and chiefs of administration, who form the bulk of +all Madrid gatherings, are gravely smoking in the library or playing +interminable games of tresillon, seasoned with temperate denunciations +of the follies of the time. + +Nothing can be more engaging than the tone of perfect ease and cordial +courtesy which pervades these family festivals. It is here that the +Spanish character is seen in its most attractive light. Nearly everybody +knows French, but it is never spoken. The exquisite Castilian, softened +by its graceful diminutives into a rival of the Italian in tender +melody, is the only medium of conversation; it is rare that a stranger' +is seen, but if he is, he must learn Spanish or be a wet blanket +forever. + +You will often meet, in persons of wealth and distinction, an easy +degenerate accent in Spanish, strangely at variance with their elegance +and culture. These are Creoles of the Antilles, and they form one of the +most valued and popular elements of society in the capital. There is a +gallantry and dash about the men, and an intelligence and independence +about the women, that distinguish them from their cousins of the +Peninsula. The American element has recently grown very prominent in the +political and social world. Admiral Topete is a Mexican. His wife is one +of the distinguished Cuban family of Arrieta. General Prim married a +Mexican heiress. The magnificent Duchess de la Torre, wife of the Regent +Serrano, is a Cuban born and bred. + +In one particular Madrid is unique among capitals,--it has no suburbs. +It lies in a desolate table-land in the windy waste of New Castile; on +the north the snowy Guadarrama chills its breezes, and on every other +side the tawny landscape stretches away in dwarfish hills and shallow +ravines barren of shrub or tree, until distance fuses the vast steppes +into one drab plain, which melts in the hazy verge of the warm horizon. +There are no villages sprinkled in the environs to lure the Madrilenos +out of their walls for a holiday. Those delicious picnics that break +with such enchanting freshness and variety the steady course of life in +other capitals cannot here exist. No Parisian loves _la bonne ville_ so +much that he does not call those the happiest of days on which he +deserts her for a row at Asnieres, a donkey-ride at Enghien, or a +bird-like dinner in the vast chestnuts of Sceaux. "There is only one +Kaiserstadt," sings the loyal Kerl of Vienna, but he shakes the dust of +the Graben from his feet on holiday mornings, and makes his merry +pilgrimage to the lordly Schoen-brunn or the heartsome Dornbach, or the +wooded eyry of the Kahlenberg. What would white-bait be if not eaten at +Greenwich? What would life be in the great cities without the knowledge +that just outside, an hour away from the toil and dust and struggle of +this money-getting world, there are green fields, and whispering +forests, and verdurous nooks of breezy shadow by the side of brooks +where the white pebbles shine through the mottled stream,--where you +find great pied pan-sies under your hands, and catch the black beady +eyes of orioles watching you from the thickets, and through the lush +leafage over you see patches of sky flecked with thin clouds that sail +so lazily you cannot be sure if the blue or the white is moving? +Existence without these luxuries would be very much like life in Madrid. + +Yet it is not so dismal as it might seem. The Grande Duchesse of +Gerolstein, the cheeriest moralist who ever occupied a throne, announces +just before the curtain falls, "Quand on n'a pas ce qu'on aime, il faut +aimer ce qu'on a." But how much easier it is to love what you have when +you never imagined anything better! The bulk of the good people of +Madrid have never left their natal city. If they have been, for their +sins, some day to Val-lecas or Carabanchel or any other of the dusty +villages that bake and shiver on the arid plains around them, they give +fervid thanks on returning alive, and never wish to go again. They +shudder when they hear of the summer excursions of other populations, +and commiserate them profoundly for living in a place they are so +anxious to leave. A lovely girl of Madrid once said to me she never +wished to travel,--some people who had been to France preferred Paris to +Madrid; as if that were an inexplicable insanity by which their +wanderings had been punished. The indolent incuriousness of the Spaniard +accepts the utter isolation of his city as rather an advantage. It saves +him the trouble of making up his mind where to go. _Vamonos al Prado!_ +or, as Browning says,-- + + "Let's to the Prado and make the most of time." + +The people of Madrid take more solid comfort in their promenade than any +I know. This is one of the inestimable benefits conferred upon them by +those wise and liberal free-thinkers Charles III. and Aranda. They knew +how important to the moral and physical health of the people a place of +recreation was. They reduced the hideous waste land on the east side of +the city to a breathing-space for future generations, turning the meadow +into a promenade and the hill into the Buen Retiro. The people growled +terribly at the time, as they did at nearly everything this prematurely +liberal government did for them. The wise king once wittily said: "My +people are like bad children that kick the shins of their nurse whenever +their faces are washed." + +But they soon became reconciled to their Prado,--a name, by the way, +which runs through several idioms,--in Paris they had a Pre-aux-clercs, +the Clerks' Meadow, and the great park of Vienna is called the Prater. +It was originally the favorite scene of duels, and the cherished +trysting-place of lovers. But in modern times it is too popular for any +such selfish use. + +The polite world takes its stately promenade in the winter afternoons in +the northern prolongation of the real Prado, called in the official +courtier style _Las delicias de Isabel Segunda,_ but in common speech +the Castilian Fountain, or _Castellana,_ to save time. So perfect is the +social discipline in these old countries that people who are not in +society never walk in this long promenade, which is open to all the +world. You shall see there, any pleasant day before the Carnival, the +aristocracy of the kingdom, the fast young hopes of the nobility, the +diplomatic body resident, and the flexible figures and graceful bearing +of the high-born ladies of Castile. Here they take the air as free from +snobbish competition as the good society of Olympus, while a hundred +paces farther south, just beyond the Mint, the world at large takes its +plebeian constitutional. How long, with a democratic system of +government, this purely conventional respect will be paid to blue-ness +of blood cannot be conjectured. Its existence a year after the +Revolution was to me one of the most singular of phenomena. + +After Easter Monday the Castellana is left to its own devices for the +summer. With the warm long days of May and June, the evening walk in the +Salon begins. Europe affords no scene more original and characteristic. +The whole city meets in this starlit drawing-room. It is a vast evening +party al fresco, stretching from the Alcala to the Course of San +Geronimo. In the wide street beside it every one in town who owns a +carriage may be seen moving lazily up and down, and apparently envying +the gossiping strollers on foot. On three nights in the week there is +music in the Retiro Garden,--not as in our feverish way beginning so +early that you must sacrifice your dinner to get there, and then turning +you out disconsolate in that seductive hour which John Phoenix used to +call the "shank of the evening," but opening sensibly at half past nine +and going leisurely forward until after midnight. The music is very +good. Sometimes Arban comes down from Paris to recover from his winter +fatigues and bewitch the Spains with his wizard _baton._ + +In all this vast crowd nobody is in a hurry. They have all night before +them. They stayed quietly at home in the stress of the noontide when the +sunbeams were falling in the glowing streets like javelins,--they +utilized some of the waste hours of the broiling afternoon in sleep, and +are fresh as daisies now. The women are not haunted by the thought of +lords and babies growling and wailing at home. Their lords are beside +them, the babies are sprawling in the clean gravel by their chairs. Late +in the small hours I have seen these family parties in the promenade, +the husband tranquilly smoking his hundredth cigarette, his _placens +uxor_ dozing in her chair, one baby asleep on the ground, and another +slumbering in her lap. + +This Madrid climate is a gallant one, and kindlier to the women than the +men. The ladies are built on the old-fashioned generous plan. Like a +Southern table in the old times, the only fault is too abundant plenty. +They move along with a superb dignity of carriage that Banting would +like to banish from the world, their round white shoulders shining in +the starlight, their fine heads elegantly draped in the coquettish and +always graceful mantilla. But you would look in vain among the men of +Madrid for such fulness and liberality of structure. They are thin, +eager, sinewy in appearance,--though it is the spareness of the Turk, +not of the American. It comes from tobacco and the Guadarrama winds. +This still, fine, subtle air that blows from the craggy peaks over the +treeless plateau seems to take all superfluous moisture out of the men +of Madrid. But it is, like Benedick's wit, "a most manly air, it will +not hurt a woman." This tropic summer-time brings the halcyon days of +the vagabonds of Madrid. They are a temperate, reasonable people, after +all, when they are let alone. They do not require the savage stimulants +of our colder-blooded race. The fresh air is a feast. As Walt Whitman +says, they loaf and invite their souls. They provide for the banquet +only the most spiritual provender. Their dissipation is confined +principally to starlight and zephyrs; the coarser and wealthier spirits +indulge in ice, agraz, and meringues dissolved in water. The climax of +their luxury is a cool bed. Walking about the city at midnight, I have +seen the fountains all surrounded by luxurious vagabonds asleep or in +revery, dozens of them stretched along the rim of the basins, in the +spray of the splashing water, where the least start would plunge them +in. But the dreams of these Latin beggars are too peaceful to trouble +their slumber. They lie motionless, amid the roar of wheels and the +tramp of a thousand feet, their bed the sculptured marble, their +covering the deep, amethystine vault, warm and cherishing with its +breath of summer winds, bright with its trooping stars. The Providence +of the worthless watches and guards them! + +The chief commerce of the streets of Madrid seems to be fire and water, +bane and antidote. It would be impossible for so many match-venders to +live anywhere else, in a city ten times the size of Madrid. On every +block you will find a wandering merchant dolefully announcing paper and +phosphorus,--the one to construct cigarettes and the other to light +them. The matches are little waxen tapers very neatly made and enclosed +in pasteboard boxes, which are sold for a cent and contain about a +hundred _fosforos._ These boxes are ornamented with portraits of the +popular favorites of the day, and afford a very fair test of the +progress and decline of parties. The queen has disappeared from them +except in caricature, and the chivalrous face of Castelar and the heavy +Bourbon mouth of Don Carlos are oftener seen than any others. A Madrid +smoker of average industry will use a box a day. They smoke more +cigarettes than cigars, and in the ardor of conversation allow their +fire to go out every minute. A young Austrian, who was watching a +_senorito_ light his wisp of paper for the fifth time, and mentally +comparing it with the volcano volume and _kern-deutsch_ integrity of +purpose of the meerschaums of his native land, said to me: "What can you +expect of a people who trifle in that way with the only work of their +lives?" + +It is this habit of constant smoking that makes the Madrilenos the +thirstiest people in the world; so that, alternating with the cry of +"Fire, lord-lings! Matches, chevaliers!" you hear continually the drone +so tempting to parched throats, "Water! who wants water? freezing water! +colder than snow!" This is the daily song of the Gallician who marches +along in his irrigating mission, with his brown blouse, his short +breeches, and pointed hat, like that Aladdin wears in the cheap +editions; a little varied by the Valentian in his party-colored mantle +and his tow trousers, showing the bronzed leg from the knee to the +blue-bordered sandals. Numerous as they are, they all seem to have +enough to do. They carry their scriptural-looking water-jars on their +backs, and a smart tray of tin and burnished brass, with meringues and +glasses, in front. The glasses are of enormous but not extravagant +proportions. These dropsical Iberians will drink water as if it were no +stronger than beer. In the winter-time, while the cheerful invitation +rings out to the same effect,--that the beverage is cold as the +snow,--the merchant prudently carries a little pot of hot water over a +spirit-lamp to take the chill off for shivery customers. + +Madrid is one of those cities where strangers fear the climate less than +residents. Nothing is too bad for the Castilian to say of his native +air. Before you have been a day in the city some kind soul will warn you +against everything you have been in the habit of doing as leading to +sudden and severe death in this subtle air. You will hear in a dozen +different tones the favorite proverb, which may be translated,-- + + The air of Madrid is as sharp as a knife,-- + It will spare a candle and blow out your life:-- + +and another where the truth, as in many Spanish proverbs, is sacrificed +to the rhyme, saying that the climate is _tres meses invierno y nueve +infierno,--_three months winter and nine months Tophet. At the first +coming of the winter frosts the genuine son of Madrid gets out his capa, +the national full round cloak, and never leaves it off till late in the +hot spring days. They have a way of throwing one corner over the left +shoulder, so that a bright strip of gay lining falls outward and +pleasantly relieves the sombre monotony of the streets. In this way the +face is completely covered by the heavy woollen folds, only the eyes +being visible under the sombrero. The true Spaniard breathes no +out-of-doors air all winter except through his cloak, and they stare at +strangers who go about with uncovered faces enjoying the brisk air as if +they were lunatics. But what makes the custom absurdly incongruous is +that the women have no such terror of fresh air. While the hidalgo goes +smothered in his wrappings his wife and daughter wear nothing on their +necks and faces but their pretty complexions, and the gallant breeze, +grateful for this generous confidence, repays them in roses. I have +sometimes fancied that in this land of traditions this difference might +have arisen in those days of adventure when the cavaliers had good +reasons for keeping their faces concealed, while the senoras, we are +bound to believe, have never done anything for which their own beauty +was not the best excuse. + +Nearly all there is of interest in Madrid consists in the faces and the +life of its people. There is but one portion of the city which appeals +to the tourist's ordinary set of emotions. This is the old Moors' +quarter,--the intricate jumble of streets and places on the western edge +of the town, overlooking the bankrupt river. Here is St. Andrew's, the +parish church where Isabella the Catholic and her pious husband used to +offer their stiff and dutiful prayers. Behind it a market-place of the +most primitive kind runs precipitately down to the Street of. Segovia, +at such an angle that you wonder the turnips and carrots can ever be +brought to keep their places on the rocky slope. If you will wander +through the dark alleys and hilly streets of this quarter when twilight +is softening the tall tenement-houses to a softer purpose, and the +doorways are all full of gossiping groups, and here and there in the +little courts you can hear the tinkling of a guitar and the drone of +ballads, and see the idlers lounging by the fountains, and everywhere +against the purple sky the crosses of old convents, while the evening +air is musical with slow chimes from the full-arched belfries, it will +not be hard to imagine you are in the Spain you have read and dreamed +of. And, climbing out of this labyrinth of slums, you pass under the +gloomy gates that lead to the Plaza Mayor. This once magnificent square +is now as squalid and forsaken as the Place Royale of Paris, though it +dates from a period comparatively recent. The mind so instinctively +revolts at the contemplation of those orgies of priestly brutality which +have made the very name of this place redolent with a fragrance of +scorched Christians, that we naturally assign it an immemorial +antiquity. But a glance at the booby face of Philip III. on his +round-bellied charger in the centre of the square will remind us that +this place was built at the same time the Mayflower's passengers were +laying the massive foundations of the great Republic. The Autos-da-Fe, +the plays of Lope de Vega, and the bull-fights went on for many years +with impartial frequency under the approving eyes of royalty, which +occupied a convenient balcony in the Panaderia, that overdressed +building with the two extinguisher towers. Down to a period +disgracefully near us, those balconies were occupied by the dull-eyed, +pendulous-lipped tyrants who have sat on the throne of St. Ferdinand, +while there in the spacious court below the varied sports went +on,--to-day a comedy of Master Lope, to-morrow the gentle and joyous +slaying of bulls, and the next day, with greater pomp and ceremony, with +banners hung from the windows, and my lord the king surrounded by his +women and his courtiers in their bravest gear, and the august presence +of the chief priests and their idol in the form of wine and wafers,--the +judgment and fiery sentence of the thinking men of Spain. + +Let us remember as we leave this accursed spot that the old palace of +the Inquisition is now the Ministry of Justice, where a liberal +statesman has just drawn up the bill of civil marriage; and that in the +convent of the Trinitarians a Spanish Rationalist, the Minister of +Fomento, is laboring to secularize education in the Peninsula. There is +much coiling and hissing, but the fangs of the ser-pent are much less +prompt and effective than of old. + +The wide Calle Mayor brings you in a moment out of these mouldy shadows +and into the broad light of nowadays which shines in the Puerta del Sol. +Here, under the walls of the Ministry of the Interior, the quick, +restless heart of Madrid beats with the new life it has lately earned. +The flags of the pavement have been often stained with blood, but of +blood shed in combat, in the assertion of individual freedom. Although +the government holds that fortress-palace with a grasp of iron, it can +exercise no control over the free speech that asserts itself on the very +sidewalk of the Principal. At every step you see news-stands filled with +the sharp critical journalism of Spain,--often ignorant and unjust, but +generally courteous in expression and independent in thought. Every day +at noon the northern mails bring hither the word of all Europe to the +awaking Spanish mind, and within that massive building the converging +lines of the telegraph are whispering every hour their persuasive +lessons of the world's essential unity. + +The movement of life and growth is bearing the population gradually away +from that dark mediaeval Madrid of the Catholic kings through the Puerta +del Sol to the airy heights beyond, and the new, fresh quarter built by +the philosopher Bourbon Charles III. is becoming the most important part +of the city. I think we may be permitted to hope that the long reign of +savage faith and repression is broken at last, and that this abused and +suffering people is about to enter into its rightful inheritance of +modern freedom and progress. + + + + +SPANISH LIVING AND DYING + + +Nowhere is the sentiment of home stronger than in Spain. Strangers, +whose ideas of the Spanish character have been gained from romance and +comedy, are apt to note with some surprise the strength and prevalence +of the domestic affections. But a moment's reflection shows us that +nothing is more natural. It is the result of all their history. The old +Celtic population had scarcely any religion but that of the family. The +Goths brought in the pure Teutonic regard for woman and marriage. The +Moors were distinguished by the patriarchal structure of their society. +The Spaniards have thus learned the lesson of home in the school of +history and tradition. The intense feeling of individuality, which so +strongly marks the Spanish character, and which in the political world +is so fatal an element of strife and obstruction, favors this peculiar +domesticity. The Castilian is submissive to his king and his priest, +haughty and inflexible with his equals. But his own house is a refuge +from the contests of out of doors. The reflex of absolute authority is +here observed, it is true. The Spanish father is absolute king and lord +by his own hearthstone, but his sway is so mild and so readily +acquiesced in that it is hardly felt. The evils of tyranny are rarely +seen but by him who resists it, and the Spanish family seldom calls for +the harsh exercise of parental authority. + +This is the rule. I do not mean to say there are no exceptions. The +pride and jealousy inherent in the race make family quarrels, when they +do arise, the bitterest and the fiercest in the world. In every grade of +life these vindictive feuds among kindred are seen from time to time. +Twice at least the steps of the throne have been splashed with royal +blood shed by a princely hand. Duels between noble cousins and stabbing +affrays between peasant brothers alike attest the unbending sense of +personal dignity that still infects this people. + +A light word between husbands and wives sometimes goes unexplained, and +the rift between them widens through life. I know some houses where the +wife enters at one door and the husband at another; where if they meet +on the stairs, they do not salute each other. Under the same roof they +have lived for years and have not spoken. One word would heal all +discord, and that word will never be spoken by either. They cannot be +divorced,--the Church is inexorable. They will not incur the scandal of +a public separation. So they pass lives of lonely isolation in adjoining +apartments, both thinking rather better of each other and of themselves +for this devilish persistence. + +An infraction of parental discipline is never forgiven. I knew a general +whose daughter fell in love with his adjutant, a clever and amiable +young officer. He had positively no objection to the suitor, but was +surprised that there should be any love-making in his house without his +previous suggestion. He refused his consent, and the young people were +married without it. The father and son-in-law went off on a campaign, +fought, and were wounded in the same battle. The general was asked to +recommend his son-in-law for promotion. "I have no son-in-law!" "I mean +your daughter's husband." "I have no daughter." "I refer to Lieutenant +Don Fulano de Tal. He is a good officer. He distinguished himself +greatly in the recent affair." "Ah! otra cosa!" said the grim +father-in-law. His hate could not overcome his sense of justice. The +youth got his promotion, but his general will not recognize him at the +club. It is in the middle and lower classes that the most perfect +pictures of the true Spanish family are to be found. The aristocracy is +more or less infected with the contagion of Continental manners and +morals. You will find there the usual proportion of wives who despise +their husbands, and men who neglect their wives, and children who do not +honor their parents. The smartness of American "pickles" has even made +its appearance among the little countesses of Madrid. A lady was eating +an ice one day, hungrily watched by the wide eyes of the infant heiress +of the house. As the latter saw the last hope vanishing before the +destroying spoon, she cried out, "Thou eatest all and givest me +none,--maldita sea tu alma!" (accursed be thy soul). This dreadful +imprecation was greeted with roars of laughter from admiring friends, +and the profane little innocent was smothered in kisses and cream. + +Passing at noon by any of the squares or shady places of Madrid, you +will see dozens of laboring-people at their meals. They sit on the +ground, around the steaming and savory _cocido_ that forms the peasant +Spaniard's unvaried dinner. The foundation is of _garbanzos,_ the large +chick-pea of the country, brought originally to Europe by the +Carthaginians,--the Roman _cicer,_ which gave its name to the greatest +of the Latin orators. All other available vegetables are thrown in; on +days of high gala a piece of meat is added, and some forehanded +housewives attain the climax of luxury by flavoring the compound with a +link of sausage. The mother brings the dinner and her tawny brood of +nestlings. A shady spot is selected for the feast. The father dips his +wooden spoon first into the vapory bowl, and mother and babes follow +with grave decorum. Idle loungers passing these patriarchal groups, on +their way to a vapid French breakfast at a restaurant, catch the +fragrance of the _olla_ and the chatter of the family, and envy the +dinner of herbs with love. + +There is no people so frugal. We often wonder how a Washington clerk can +live on twelve hundred dollars, but this would be luxury in expensive +Madrid. It is one of the dearest capitals in Europe. Foreigners are +never weary decrying its high prices for poor fare; but Castilians live +in good houses, dress well, receive their intimate friends, and hold +their own with the best in the promenade, upon incomes that would seem +penury to any country parson in America. There are few of the nobility +who retain the great fortunes of former days. You can almost tell on +your fingers the tale of the grandees in Madrid who can live without +counting the cost. The army and navy are crowded with general officers +whose political services have obliged their promotion. The state is too +much impoverished to pay liberal salaries, and yet the rank of these +officers requires the maintenance of a certain social position. Few of +them are men of fortune. The result is that necessity has taught them to +live well upon little, I knew widows who went everywhere in society, +whose daughters were always charmingly dressed, who lived in a decent +quarter of the town, and who had no resources whatever but a husband's +pension. + +The best proof of the capacity of Spaniards to spread a little gold over +as much space as a goldbeater could is the enormous competition for +public employment. Half the young men in Spain are candidates for +places under government ranging from $250 to $1000. Places of $1500 to +$2000 are considered objects of legitimate ambition even to deputies and +leading politicians. Expressed in reals these sums have a large and +satisfying sound. Fifty dollars seems little enough for a month's work, +but a thousand reals has the look of a most respectable salary. In +Portugal, however, you can have all the delightful sensations of +prodigality at a contemptible cost. You can pay, without serious damage +to your purse, five thousand reis for your breakfast. + +It is the smallness of incomes and the necessity of looking sharply to +the means of life that makes the young people of Madrid so prudent in +their love affairs. I know of no place where ugly heir-esses are such +belles, and where young men with handsome incomes are so universally +esteemed by all who know them. The stars on the sleeves of young +officers are more regarded than their dancing, and the red belt of a +field officer is as winning in the eyes of beauty as a cestus of Venus. +A. subaltern offered his hand and heart to a black-eyed girl of Castile. +She said kindly but firmly that the night was too cloudy. "What," said +the stupefied lover, "the sky is full of stars." "I see but one," said +the prudent beauty, her fine eyes resting pensively upon his cuff, where +one lone luminary indicated his rank. + +This spirit is really one of forethought, and not avarice. People who +have enough for two almost always marry from inclination, and frequently +take partners for life without a penny. + +If men were never henpecked except by learned wives, Spain would be the +place of all others for timid men to marry in. The girls are bright, +vivacious, and naturally very clever, but they have scarcely any +education whatever. They never know the difference between _b_ and _v._ +They throw themselves in orthography entirely upon your benevolence. +They know a little music and a little French, but they have never +crossed, even in a school-day excursion, the border line of the ologies. +They do not even read novels. They are regarded as injurious, and +cannot be trusted to the daughters until mamma has read them. Mamma +never has time to read them, and so they are condemned by default. +Fernan Caballero, in one of her sleepy little romances, refers to this +illiterate character of the Spanish ladies, and says it is their chief +charm,--that a Christian woman, in good society, ought not to know +anything beyond her cookery-book and her missal. There is-an old proverb +which coarsely conveys this idea: A mule that whinnies and a woman that +talks Latin never come to any good. + +There is a contented acquiescence in this moral servitude among the fair +Spaniards which would madden our agitatresses. (See what will become of +the language when male words are crowded out of the dictionary!) + +It must be the innocence which springs from ignorance that induces an +occasional coarseness of expression which surprises you in the +conversation of those lovely young girls. They will speak with perfect +freedom of the _etat-civil_ of a young unmarried mother. A maiden of +fifteen said to me: "I must go to a party this evening _decolletee,_ and +I hate it. Benigno is getting old enough to marry, and he wants to see +all the girls in low neck before he makes up his mind." They all swear +like troopers, without a thought of profanity. Their mildest expression +of surprise is Jesus Maria! They change their oaths with the season. At +the feast of the Immaculate Conception, the favorite oath is Maria +Purissima. This is a time of especial interest to young girls. It is a +period of compulsory confession,--conscience-cleaning, as they call it. +They are all very pious in their way. They attend to their religious +duties with the same interest which they displayed a few years before in +dressing and undressing their dolls, and will display a few years later +in putting the lessons they learned with their dolls to a more practical +use. + +The visible concrete symbols and observances of religion have great +influence with them. They are fond of making vows in tight places and +faithfully observing them afterwards. In an hour's walk in the streets +of Madrid you will see a dozen ladies with a leather strap buckled about +their slender waists and hanging nearly to the ground. Others wear a +knotted cord and tassels. These are worn as the fulfilment of vows, or +penances. + +I am afraid they give rise to much worldly conjecture on the part of +idle youth as to what amiable sins these pretty penitents can have been +guilty of. It is not prudent to ask an explanation of the peculiar +mercy, or remorse, which this purgatorial strap commemorates. You will +probably not enlarge your stock of knowledge further than to learn that +the lady in question considers you a great nuisance. + +The graceful lady who, in ascending the throne of France, has not ceased +to be a thorough Spaniard, still preserves these pretty weaknesses of +her youth. She vowed a chapel to her patron saint if her firstborn was a +man-child, and paid it. She has hung a vestal lamp in the Church of +Notre Dame des Victoires, in pursuance of a vow she keeps rigidly +secret. She is a firm believer in relics also, and keeps a choice +assortment on hand in the Tuileries for sudden emergencies. When old +Baciocchi lay near his death, worn out by a horrible nervous disorder +which would not let him sleep, the empress told the doctors, with great +mystery, that she would cure him. After a few preliminary masses, she +came into his room and hung on his bedpost a little gold-embroidered +sachet containing (if the evidence of holy men is to be believed) a few +threads of the swaddling-clothes of John the Baptist. Her simple +childlike faith wrung the last grim smile from the tortured lips of the +dying courtier. + +The very names of the Spanish women are a constant reminder of their +worship. They are all named out of the calendar of saints and virgin +martyrs. A large majority are christened Mary; but as this sacred name +by much use has lost all distinctive meaning, some attribute, some +especial invocation of the Virgin, is always coupled with it. The names +of Dolores, Mercedes, Milagros, recall Our Lady of the Sorrows, of the +Gifts, of the Miracles. I knew a hoydenish little gypsy who bore the +tearful name of Lagrimas. The most appropriate name I heard for these +large-eyed, soft-voiced beauties was Peligros, Our Lady of Dangers. Who +could resist the comforting assurance of "Consuelo"? "Blessed," says my +Lord Lytton, "is woman who consoles." What an image of maiden purity +goes with the name of Nieves, the Virgin of the Snows! From a single +cotillon of Castilian girls you can construct the whole history of Our +Lady; Conception, Annunciation, Sorrows, Solitude, Assumption. As young +ladies are never called by their family names, but always by their +baptismal appellations, you cannot pass an evening in a Spanish +_tertulia_ without being reminded of every stage in the life of the +Immaculate Mother, from Bethlehem to Calvary and beyond. + +The common use of sacred words is universal in Catholic countries, but +nowhere so striking as in Spain. There is a little solemnity in the +French adieu. But the Spaniard says adios instead of "good-morning." No +letter closes without the prayer, "God guard your Grace many years!" +They say a judge announces to a murderer his sentence of death with the +sacramental wish of length of days. There is something a little shocking +to a Yankee mind in the label of Lachryma Christi; but in La Mancha they +call fritters the Grace of God. + +The piety of the Spanish women does not prevent them from seeing some +things clearly enough with their bright eyes. One of the most bigoted +women in Spain recently said: "I hesitate to let my child go to +confession. The priests ask young girls such infamous questions, that my +cheeks burn when I think of them, after all these years." I stood one +Christmas Eve in the cold midnight wind, waiting for the church doors to +open for the night mass, the famous _misa del gallo._ On the steps +beside me sat a decent old woman with her two daughters. At last she +rose and said, "Girls, it is no use waiting any longer. The priests +won't leave their housekeepers this cold night to save anybody's soul." +In these two cases, taken from the two extremes of the Catholic society, +there was no disrespect for the Church or for religion. Both these women +believed with a blind faith. But they could not help seeing how unclean +were the hands that dispensed the bread of life. + +The respect shown to the priesthood as a body is marvellous, in view of +the profligate lives of many. The general progress of the age has forced +most of the dissolute priests into hypocrisy. But their cynical +immorality is still the bane of many families. And it needs but a glance +at the vile manual of confession, called the Golden Key, the author of +which is the too well known Padre Claret, confessor to the queen, to see +the systematic moral poisoning the minds of Spanish women must undergo +who pay due attention to what is called their religious duties. If a +confessor obeys the injunctions of this high ecclesiastical authority, +his fair penitents will have nothing to learn from a diligent perusal of +Faublas or Casanova. It would, however, be unjust to the priesthood to +consider them all as corrupt as royal chaplains. It requires a +combination of convent and palace life to produce these finished +specimens of mitred infamy. + +It is to be regretted that the Spanish women are kept in such systematic +ignorance. They have a quicker and more active intelligence than the +men. With a fair degree of education, much might be hoped from them in +the intellectual development of the country. In society, you will at +once be struck with the superiority of the women to their husbands and +brothers in cleverness and appreciation. Among small tradesmen, the wife +always comes to the rescue of her slow spouse when she sees him befogged +in a bargain. In the fields, you ask a peasant some question about your +journey. He will hesitate, and stammer, and end with, "_Quien sabe?"_ +but his wife will answer with glib completeness all you want to know. I +can imagine no cause for this, unless it be that the men cloud their +brains all day with the fumes of tobacco, and the women do not. + +The personality of the woman is not so entirely merged in that of the +husband as among us. She retains her own baptismal and family name +through life. If Miss Matilda Smith marries Mr. Jonathan Jones, all +vestige of the former gentle being vanishes at once from the earth, and +Mrs. Jonathan Jones alone remains. But in Spain she would become Mrs. +Matilda Smith de Jones, and her eldest-born would be called Don Juan +Jones y Smith. You ask the name of a married lady in society, and you +hear as often her own name as that of her husband. + +Even among titled people, the family name seems more highly valued than +the titular designation. Everybody knows Narvaez, but how few have heard +of the Duke of Valencia! The Regent Serrano has a name known and honored +over the world, but most people must think twice before they remember +the Duke de la Torre. Juan Prim is better known than the Marques de los +Castillejos ever will be. It is perhaps due to the prodigality with +which titles have been scattered in late years that the older titles are +more regarded than the new, although of inferior grade. Thus Prim calls +himself almost invariably the Conde de Reus, though his grandeeship came +with his investiture as marquis. + +There is something quite noticeable about this easy way of treating +one's name. We are accustomed to think a man can have but one name, and +can sign it but in one way. Lord Derby can no more call himself Mr. +Stanley than President Grant can sign a bill as U. Simpson. Yet both +these signatures would be perfectly valid according to Spanish analogy. +The Marquis of Santa Marta signs himself Guzman; the Marquis of Albaida +uses no signature but Orense; both of these gentlemen being Republican +deputies. I have seen General Prim's name signed officially, Conde de +Reus, Marques de los Castillejos, Prim, J. Prim, Juan Prim, and Jean +Prim, changing the style as often as the humor strikes him. + +Their forms of courtesy are, however, invariable. You can never visit a +Spaniard without his informing you that you are in your own house. If, +walking with him, you pass his residence, he asks you to enter your +house and unfatigue yourself a moment. If you happen upon any Spaniard, +of whatever class, at the hour of repast, he always offers you his +dinner; if you decline, it must be with polite wishes for his digestion. +With the Spaniards, no news is good news; it is therefore civil to ask a +Spaniard if his lady-wife goes on without novelty, and to express your +profound gratification on being assured that she does. Their forms of +hospitality are evidently Moorish, derived from the genuine open hand +and open tent of the children of the desert; now nothing is left of them +but grave and decorous words. In the old times, one who would have +refused such offers would have been held a churl; now one who would +accept them would be regarded as a boor. + +There is still something primitive about the Spanish servants. A flavor +of the old romances and the old comedy still hangs about them. They are +chatty and confidential to a degree that appalls a stiff and formal +Englishman of the upper middle class. The British servant is a chilly +and statuesque image of propriety. The French is an intelligent and +sympathizing friend. You can make of him what you like. But the Italian, +and still more the Spaniard, is as gay as a child, and as incapable of +intentional disrespect. The Castilian grandee does not regard his +dignity as in danger from a moment's chat with a waiter. He has no +conception of that ferocious decorum we Anglo-Saxons require from our +manservants and our maidservants. The Spanish servant seems to regard it +as part of his duty to keep your spirits gently excited while you dine +by the gossip of the day. He joins also in your discussions, whether +they touch lightly on the politics of the hour or plunge profoundly into +the depths of philosophic research. He laughs at your wit, and swings +his napkin with convulsions of mirth at your good stories. He tells you +the history of his life while you are breaking your egg, and lays the +story of his loves before you with your coffee. Yet he is not intrusive. +He will chatter on without waiting for a reply, and when you are tired +of him you can shut him off with a word. There are few Spanish servants +so uninteresting but that you can find in them from time to time some +sparks of that ineffable light which shines forever in Sancho and +Figaro. + +The traditions of subordination, which are the result of long centuries +of tyranny, have prevented the development of that feeling of +independence among the lower orders, which in a freer race finds its +expression in ill manners and discourtesy to superiors. I knew a +gentleman in the West whose circumstances had forced him to become a +waiter in a backwoods restaurant. He bore a deadly grudge at the +profession that kept him from starving, and asserted his unconquered +nobility of soul by scowling at his customers and swearing at the viands +he dispensed. I remember the deep sense of wrong with which he would +growl, "Two buckwheats, begawd!" You see nothing of this defiant spirit +in Spanish servants. They are heartily glad to find employment, and ask +no higher good-fortune than to serve acceptably. As to drawing +comparisons between themselves and their masters, they never seem to +think they belong to the same race. I saw a pretty grisette once stop to +look at a show-window where there was a lay-figure completely covered +with all manner of trusses. She gazed at it long and earnestly, +evidently thinking it was some new fashion just introduced into the gay +world. At last she tripped away with all the grace of her unfettered +limbs, saying, "If the fine ladies have to wear all those machines, I am +glad I am not made like them." + +Whether it be from their more regular and active lives, or from their +being unable to pay for medical attendance, the poorer classes suffer +less from sickness than their betters. An ordinary Spaniard is sick but +once in his life, and that once is enough,--'twill serve. The traditions +of the old satires which represented the doctor and death as always +hunting in couples still survive in Spain. It is taken as so entirely a +matter of course that a patient must die that the law of the land +imposed a heavy fine upon physicians who did not bring a priest on their +second visit. His labor of exhortation and confession was rarely wasted. +There were few sufferers who recovered from the shock of that solemn +ceremony in their chambers. Medical science still labors in Spain under +the ban of ostracism, imposed in the days when all research was impiety. +The Inquisition clamored for the blood of Vesalius, who had committed +the crime of a demonstration in anatomy. He was forced into a pilgrimage +of expiation, and died on the way to Palestine. The Church has always +looked with a jealous eye upon the inquirers, the innovators. Why these +probes, these lancets, these multifarious drugs, when the object in view +could be so much more easily obtained by the judicious application of +masses and prayers? + +So it has come about that the doctor is a Pariah, and miracles flourish +in the Peninsula. At every considerable shrine you will see the walls +covered with waxen models of feet, legs, hands, and arms secured by the +miraculous interposition of the _genius loci,_ and scores of little +crutches attesting the marvellous hour when they became useless. Each +shrine, like a mineral spring, has its own especial virtue. A Santiago +medal was better than quinine for ague. St. Veronica's handkerchief is +sovereign for sore eyes. A bone of St. Magin supersedes the use of +mercury. A finger-nail of San Frutos cured at Segovia a case of +congenital idiocy. The Virgin of Ona acted as a vermifuge on royal +infantas, and her girdle at Tortosa smooths their passage into this +world. In this age of unfaith relics have lost much of their power. They +turn out their score or so of miracles every feast-day, it is true, but +are no longer capable of the _tours de force_ of earlier days. Cardinal +de Retz saw with his eyes a man whose wooden legs were turned to +capering flesh and blood by the image of the Pillar of Saragossa. But +this was in the good old times before newspapers and telegraphs had come +to dispel the twilight of belief. + +Now, it is excessively probable that neither doctor nor priest can do +much if the patient is hit in earnest. He soon succumbs, and is laid out +in his best clothes in an improvised chapel and duly sped on his way. +The custom of burying the dead in the gown and cowl of monks has greatly +passed into disuse. The mortal relics are treated with growing contempt, +as the superstitions of the people gradually lose their concrete +character. The soul is the important matter which the Church now looks +to. So the cold clay is carted off to the cemetery with small ceremony. +Even the coffins of the rich are jammed away into receptacles too small +for them, and hastily plastered out of sight. The poor are carried off +on trestles and huddled into their nameless graves, without following or +blessing. Children are buried with some regard to the old Oriental +customs. The coffin is of some gay and cheerful color, pink or blue, and +is carried open to the grave by four of the dead child's young +companions, a fifth walking behind with the ribboned coffin-lid. I have +often seen these touching little parties moving through the bustling +streets, the peaceful small face asleep under the open sky, decked with +the fading roses and withering lilies. In all well-to-do families the +house of death is deserted immediately after the funeral. The stricken +ones retire to some other habitation, and there pass eight days in +strict and inviolable seclusion. On the ninth day the great masses for +the repose of the soul of the departed are said in the parish church, +and all the friends of the family are expected to be present. These +masses are the most important and expensive incident of the funeral. +They cost from two hundred to one thousand dollars, according to the +strength and fervor of the orisons employed. They are repeated several +years on the anniversary of the decease, and afford a most sure and +nourishing revenue to the Church. They are founded upon those feelings +inseparable from every human heart, vanity and affection. Our dead +friends must be as well prayed for as those of others, and who knows but +that they may be in deadly need of prayers! To shorten their fiery +penance by one hour, who would not fast for a week? On these +anniversaries a black-bordered advertisement appears in the newspapers, +headed by the sign of the cross and the Requiescat in Pace, announcing +that on this day twelve months Don Fulano de Tal passed from earth +garnished with the holy sacraments, that all the masses this day +celebrated in such and such churches will be applied to the benefit of +his spirit's repose, and that all Christian friends are hereby requested +to commend his soul this day unto God. These efforts, if they do the +dead no good, at least do the living no harm. + +A luxury of grief, in those who can afford it, consists in shutting up +the house where a death has taken place and never suffering it to be +opened again. I once saw a beautiful house and wide garden thus +abandoned in one of the most fashionable streets of Madrid. I inquired +about it, and found it was formerly the residence of the Duke of------. +His wife had died there many years before, and since that day not a door +nor a window had been opened. The garden gates were red and rough with +rust. Grass grew tall and rank in the gravelled walks. A thick lush +undergrowth had overrun the flower-beds and the lawns. The blinds were +rotting over the darkened windows. Luxuriant vines clambered over all +the mossy doors. The stucco was peeling from the walls in unwholesome +blotches. Wild birds sang all day in the safe solitude. There was +something impressive in this spot of mould and silence, lying there so +green and implacable in the very heart of a great and noisy city. The +duke lived in Paris, leading the rattling life of a man of the world. He +never would sell or let that Madrid house. Perhaps in his heart also, +that battered thoroughfare worn by the pattering boots of Ma-bine and +the Bois, and the Quartier Breda, there was a green spot sacred to +memory and silence, where no footfall should ever light, where no living +voice should ever be heard, shut out from the world and its cares and +its pleasures, where through the gloom of dead days he could catch a +glimpse of a white hand, a flash of a dark eye, the rustle of a trailing +robe, and feel sweeping over him the old magic of love's young dream, +softening his fancy to tender regret and his eyes to a happy mist-- + + "Like that which kept the heart of Eden green + Before the useful trouble of the rain." + + + + +INFLUENCE OF TRADITION IN SPANISH LIFE + + +Intelligent Spaniards with whom I have conversed on political matters +have often exclaimed, "Ah, you Americans are happy! you have no +traditions." The phrase was at first a puzzling one. We Americans are +apt to think we have traditions,--a rather clearly marked line of +precedents. And it is hard to see how a people should be happier without +them. It is not anywhere considered a misfortune to have had a +grandfather, I believe, and some very good folks take an innocent pride +in that very natural fact. It was not easy to conceive why the +possession of a glorious history of many centuries should be regarded as +a drawback. But a closer observation of Spanish life and thought reveals +the curious and hurtful effect of tradition upon every phase of +existence. + +In the commonest events of every day you will find the flavor of past +ages lingering in petty annoyances. The insecurity of the middle ages +has left as a legacy to our times a complicated system of obstacles to a +man getting into his own house at night. I lived in a pleasant house on +the Prado, with a minute garden in front, and an iron gate and railing. +This gate was shut and locked by the night watchman of the quarter at +midnight,--so conscientiously that he usually had everything snug by +half past eleven. As the same man had charge of a dozen or more houses, +it was scarcely reasonable to expect him to be always at your own gate +when you arrived. But by a singular fatality I think no man ever found +him in sight at any hour. He is always opening some other gate or +shutting some other door, or settling the affairs of the nation with a +friend in the next block, or carrying on a chronic courtship at the +lattice of some olive-cheeked soubrette around the corner. Be that as it +may, no one ever found him on hand; and there is nothing to do but to +sit down on the curbstone and lift up your voice and shriek for him +until he comes. At two o'clock of a morning in January the exercise is +not improving to the larynx or the temper. There is a tradition in the +very name of this worthy. He is called the Sereno, because a century or +so ago he used to call the hour and the state of the weather, and as the +sky is almost always cloudless here, he got the name of the Sereno, as +the quail is called Bob White, from much iteration. The Sereno opens +your gate and the door of your house. When you come to your own floor +you must ring, and your servant takes a careful survey of you through a +latticed peep-hole before he will let you in. You may positively forbid +this every day in the year, but the force of habit is too strong in the +Spanish mind to suffer amendment. + +This absurd custom comes evidently down from a time of great lawlessness +and license, when no houses were secure without these precautions, when +people rarely stirred from their doors after nightfall, and when a door +was never opened to a stranger. Now, when no such dangers exist, the +annoying and senseless habit still remains, because no one dreams of +changing anything which their fathers thought proper. Three hundred +thousand people in Madrid submit year after year to this nightly cross, +and I have never heard a voice raised in protest, nor even in defence of +the custom. + +There is often a bitterness of opposition to evident improvement which +is hard to explain. In the last century, when the eminent naturalist +Bowles went down to the Almaden silver-mines, by appointment of the +government, to see what was the cause of their exhaustion, he found that +they had been worked entirely in perpendicular shafts instead of +following the direction of the veins. He perfected a plan for working +them in this simple and reasonable way, and no earthly power could make +the Spanish miners obey his orders. There was no precedent for this new +process, and they would not touch it. They preferred starvation rather +than offend the memory of their fathers by a change. At last they had to +be dismissed and a full force imported from Germany, under whose hands +the mines became instantly enormously productive. + +I once asked a very intelligent English contractor why he used no +wheelbarrows in his work. He had some hundreds of stalwart navvies +employed carrying dirt in small wicker baskets to an embankment. He said +the men would not use them. Some said it broke their backs. Others +discovered a capital way of amusing themselves by putting the barrow on +their heads and whirling the wheel as rapidly as possible with their +hands. This was a game which never grew stale. The contractor gave up in +despair, and went back to the baskets. But it is in the official regions +that tradition is most powerful. In the budget of 1870 there was a +curious chapter called "Charges of Justice." This consisted of a +collection of articles appropriating large sums of money for the payment +of feudal taxes to the great aristocracy of the kingdom as a +compensation for long extinct seigniories. The Duke of Rivas got +thirteen hundred dollars for carrying the mail to Victoria. The Duke of +San Carlos draws ten thousand dollars for carrying the royal +correspondence to the Indies. Of course this service ceased to belong to +these families some centuries ago, but the salary is still paid. The +Duke of Almodovar is well paid for supplying the _baton_ of office to +the Alguazil of Cordova. The Duke of Osuna--one of the greatest grandees +of the kingdom, a gentleman who has the right to wear seventeen hats in +the presence of the Queen--receives fifty thousand dollars a year for +imaginary feudal services. The Count of Altamira, who, as his name +indicates, is a gentleman of high views, receives as a salve for the +suppression of his fief thirty thousand dollars a year. In consideration +of this sum he surrenders, while it is punctually paid, the privilege of +hanging his neighbors. + +When the budget was discussed, a Republican member gently criticised +this chapter; but his amendment for an investigation of these charges +was indignantly rejected. He was accused of a shocking want of +Espanolismo. He was thought to have no feeling in his heart for the +glories of Spain. The respectability of the Chamber could find but one +word injurious enough to express their contempt for so shameless a +proposition; they said it was little better than socialism. The +"charges" were all voted. Spain, tottering on the perilous verge of +bankruptcy, her schoolmasters not paid for months, her sinking fund +plundered, her credit gone out of sight, borrowing every cent she spends +at thirty per cent., is proud of the privilege of paying into the hands +of her richest and most useless class this gratuity of twelve million +reals simply because they are descended from the robber chiefs of the +darker ages. There is a curious little comedy played by the family of +Medina Celi at every new coronation of a king of Spain. The duke claims +to be the rightful heir to the throne. He is descended from Prince +Ferdinand, who, dying before his father, Don Alonso X., left his babies +exposed to the cruel kindness of their uncle Sancho, who, to save them +the troubles of the throne, assumed it himself and transmitted it to his +children,--all this some half dozen centuries ago. At every coronation +the duke formally protests; an athletic and sinister-looking court +headsman comes down to his palace in the Carrera San Geronimo, and by +threats of immediate decapitation induces the duke to sign a paper +abdicating his rights to the throne of all the Spains. The duke eats the +Bourbon leek with inward profanity, and feels that he has done a most +clever and proper thing. This performance is apparently his only object +and mission in life. This one sacrifice to tradition is what he is born +for. + +The most important part of a Spaniard's signature is the _rubrica_ or +flourish with which it closes. The monarch's hand is set to public acts +exclusively by this _parafe._ This evidently dates from the time when +none but priests could write. In Madrid the mule-teams are driven tandem +through the wide streets, because this was necessary in the ages when +the streets were narrow. + +There is even a show of argument sometimes to justify an adherence to +things as they are. About a century ago there was an effort made by +people who had lived abroad, and so become conscious of the possession +of noses, to have the streets of Madrid cleaned. The proposition was at +first received with apathetic contempt, but when the innovators +persevered they met the earnest and successful opposition of all +classes. The Cas-tilian _savans_ gravely reported that the air of +Madrid, which blew down from the snowy Guadarra-mas, was so thin and +piercing that it absolutely needed the gentle corrective of the +ordure-heaps to make it fit for human lungs. + +There is no nation in Europe in which so little washing is done. I do +not think it is because the Spaniards do not want to be neat. They are, +on the whole, the best-dressed people on the Continent. The hate of +ablutions descends from those centuries of warfare with the Moors. The +heathens washed themselves daily; therefore a Christian should not. The +monks, who were too lazy to bathe, taught their followers to be filthy +by precept and example. Water was never to be applied externally except +in baptism. It was a treacherous element, and dallying with it had +gotten Bathsheba and Susanna into no end of trouble. So when the cleanly +infidels were driven out of Granada, the pious and hydrophobic Cardinal +Ximenez persuaded the Catholic sovereigns to destroy the abomination of +baths they left behind. Until very recently the Spanish mind has been +unable to separate a certain idea of immorality from bathing. When +Madame Daunoy, one of the sprightliest of observers, visited the court +of Philip IV., she found it was considered shocking among the ladies of +the best society to wash the face and hands. Once or twice a week they +would glaze their pretty visages with the white of an egg. Of late years +this prejudice has given way somewhat; but it has lasted longer than any +monument in Spain. + +These, however, are but trivial manifestations of that power of +tradition which holds the Spanish intellect imprisoned as in a vice of +iron. The whole life of the nation is fatally influenced by this blind +reverence for things that have been. It may be said that by force of +tradition Christian morality has been driven from individual life by +religion, and honesty has been supplanted as a rule of public conduct by +honor,--a wretched substitute in either case, and irreconcilably at war +with the spirit of the age. + +The growth of this double fanaticism is easily explained; it is the +result of centuries of religious wars. From the hour when Pelayo, the +first of the Asturian kings, successfully met and repulsed the hitherto +victorious Moors in his rocky fortress of Covadonga, to the day when +Boabdil the Unlucky saw for the last time through streaming tears the +vermilion towers of Alhambra crowned with the banner of the cross, there +was not a year of peace in Spain. No other nation has had such an +experience. Seven centuries of constant warfare, with three thousand +battles; this is the startling epitome of Spanish history from the +Mahometan conquest to the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella. In this vast +war there was laid the foundation of the national character of to-day. + +Even before the conquering Moslem crossed from Africa, Spain was the +most deeply religious country in Europe; and by this I mean the country +in which the Church was most powerful in its relations with the State. +When the Council of Toledo, in 633, received the king of Castile, he +fell on his face at the feet of the bishops before venturing to address +them. When the hosts of Islam had overspread the Peninsula, and the last +remnant of Christianity had taken refuge in the inaccessible hills of +the northwest, the richest possession they carried into these inviolate +fastnesses was a chest of relics,--knuckle-bones of apostles and +splinters of true crosses, in which they trusted more than in mortal +arms. The Church had thus a favorable material to work upon in the years +of struggle that followed. The circumstances all lent themselves to the +scheme of spiritual domination. The fight was for the cross against the +crescent; the symbol of the quarrel was visible and tangible. The +Spaniards were poor and ignorant and credulous. The priests were enough +superior to lead and guide them, and not so far above them as to be out +of the reach of their sympathies and their love. They marched with them. +They shared their toils and dangers. They stimulated their hate of the +enemy. They taught them that their cruel anger was the holy wrath of +God. They held the keys of eternal weal or woe, and rewarded +subservience to the priestly power with promises of everlasting +felicity; while the least symptom of rebellion in thought or action was +punished with swift death and the doom of endless flames. There was +nothing in the Church which the fighting Spaniard could recognize as a +reproach to himself. It was as bitter, as brave, as fierce, and +revengeful as he. His credulity regarded it as divine, and worthy of +blind adoration, and his heart went out to it with the sympathy of +perfect love. + +In these centuries of war there was no commerce, no manufactures, no +settled industry of importance among the Spaniards. There was +consequently no wealth, none of that comfort and ease which is the +natural element of doubt and discussion. Science did not exist. The +little learning of the time was exclusively in the hands of the +priesthood. If from time to time an intelligent spirit struggled against +the chain of unquestioning bigotry that bound him, he was rigorously +silenced by prompt and bloody punishment. There seemed to be no need of +discussion, no need of inculcation of doctrine. The serious work of the +time was the war with the infidel. The clergy managed everything. The +question, "What shall I do to be saved?" never entered into those simple +and ignorant minds. The Church would take care of those who did her +bidding. + +Thus it was that in the hammering of those struggling ages the nation +became welded together in one compact mass of unquestioning, unreasoning +faith, which the Church could manage at its own good pleasure. + +It was also in these times that Spanish honor took its rise. This +sentiment is so nearly connected with that of personal loyalty that they +may be regarded as phases of the same monarchical spirit. The rule of +honor as distinguished from honesty and virtue is the most prominent +characteristic of monarchy, and for that reason the political theorists +from the time of Montesquieu have pronounced in favor of the monarchy as +a more practicable form of government than the republic, as requiring a +less perfect and delicate machinery, men of honor being far more common +than men of virtue. As in Spain, owing to special conditions, monarchy +attained the most perfect growth and development which the world has +seen, the sentiment of honor, as a rule of personal and political +action, has there reached its most exaggerated form. I use this word, of +course, in its restricted meaning of an intense sense of personal +dignity, and readiness to sacrifice for this all considerations of +interest and morality. + +This phase of the Spanish character is probably derived in its germ from +the Gothic blood of their ancestors. Their intense self-assertion has +been, in the Northern races, modified by the progress of intelligence +and the restraints of municipal law into a spirit of sturdy self-respect +and a disinclination to submit to wrong. The Goths of Spain have +unfortunately never gone through this civilizing process. Their endless +wars never gave an opportunity for the development of the purely civic +virtues of respect and obedience to law. The people at large were too +wretched, too harried by constant coming and going of the waves of war, +to do more than live, in a shiftless, hand-to-mouth way, from the +proceeds of their flocks and herds. There were no cities of importance +within the Spanish lines. There was no opportunity for the growth of the +true burgher spirit. + +There was no law to speak of in all these years except the twin +despotism of the Church and the king. If there had been dissidence +between them it might have been better for the people. But up to late +years there has never been a quarrel between the clergy and the crown. +Their interests were so identified that the dual tyranny was stronger +than even a single one could have been. The crown always lending to the +Church when necessary the arm of flesh, and the Church giving to the +despotism of the sceptre the sanction of spiritual authority, an +absolute power was established over body and soul. + +The spirit of individual independence inseparable from Gothic blood +being thus forced out of its natural channels of freedom of thought and +municipal liberty, it remained in the cavaliers of the army of Spain in +the same barbarous form which it had held in the Northern forests,--a +physical self-esteem and a readiness to fight on the slightest +provocation. This did not interfere with the designs of the Church and +was rather a useful engine against its enemies. The absolute power of +the crown kept the spirit of feudal arrogance in check while the +pressure of a common danger existed. The close cohesion which was so +necessary in camp and Church prevented the tendency to disintegration, +while the right of life and death was freely exercised by the great +lords on their distant estates without interference. The predominating +power of the crown was too great and too absolute to result in the +establishment of any fixed principle of obedience to law. The union of +crozier and sceptre had been, if anything, too successful. The king was +so far above the nobility that there was no virtue in obeying him. His +commission was divine, and he was no more confined by human laws than +the stars and the comets. The obedience they owed and paid him was not +respect to law. It partook of the character of religious worship, and +left untouched and untamed in their savage hearts the instinct of +resistance to all earthly claims of authority. + +Such was the condition of the public spirit of Spain at the beginning of +that wonderful series of reigns from Ferdinand and Isabella to their +great-grandson Philip II., which in less than a century raised Spain to +the summit of greatness and built up a realm on which the sun never set. +All the events of these prodigious reigns contributed to increase and +intensify the national traits to which we have referred. The discovery +of America flooded Europe with gold, and making the better class of +Spaniards the richest people in the world naturally heightened their +pride and arrogance. The long and eventful religious wars of Charles V. +and Philip II. gave employment and distinction to thousands of families +whose vanity was nursed by the royal favor, and whose ferocious +self-will was fed and pampered by the blood of heretics and the spoil of +rebels. + +The national qualities of superstition and pride made the whole cavalier +class a wieldy and effective weapon in the hands of the monarch, and the +use he made of them reacted upon these very traits, intensifying and +affirming them. + +So terrible was this absolute command of the spiritual and physical +forces of the kingdom possessed by the monarchs of that day, that when +the Reformation flashed out, a beacon in the northern sky of political +and religious freedom to the world, its light could not penetrate into +Spain. There was a momentary struggle there, it is true. But so +apathetic was the popular mind that the effort to bring it into sympathy +with the vast movement of the age was hopeless from the beginning. The +axe and the fagot made rapid work of the heresy. After only ten years of +burnings and beheadings Philip II. could boast that not a heretic lived +in his borders. + +Crazed by his success and his unquestioned omnipotence at home, and +drunken with the delirious dream that God's wrath was breathing through +him upon a revolted world, he essayed to crush heresy throughout Europe; +and in this mad and awful crime his people undoubtingly seconded him. In +this he failed, the stars in their courses fighting against him, the God +that his worship slandered taking sides against him. But history records +what rivers of blood he shed in the long and desperate fight, and how +lovingly and adoringly his people sustained him. He killed, in cold +blood, some forty thousand harmless people for their faith, besides the +vastly greater number whose lives he took in battle. + +Yet this horrible monster, who is blackened with every crime at which +humanity shudders, who had no grace of manhood, no touch of humanity, no +gleam of sympathy which could redeem the gloomy picture of his ravening +life, was beloved and worshipped as few men have been since the world +has stood. The common people mourned him at his death with genuine +unpaid sobs and tears. They will weep even yet at the story of his +edifying death,--this monkish vampire breathing his last with his eyes +fixed on the cross of the mild Nazarene, and tormented with impish +doubts as to whether he had drunk blood enough to fit him for the +company of the just! + +His successors rapidly fooled away the stupendous empire that had filled +the sixteenth century with its glory. Spain sank from the position of +ruler of the world and queen of the seas to the place of a second-rate +power, by reason of the weakening power of superstition and bad +government, and because the people and the chieftains had never learned +the lesson of law. + +The clergy lost no tittle of their power. They went on, gayly roasting +their heretics and devouring the substance of the people, more +prosperous than ever in those days of national decadence. Philip III. +gave up the government entirely to the Duke of Lerma, who formed an +alliance with the Church, and they led together a joyous life. In the +succeeding reign the Church had become such a gnawing cancer upon the +state that the servile Cortes had the pluck to protest against its +inroads. There were in 1626 nine thousand monasteries for men, besides +nunneries. There were thirty-two thousand Dominican and Franciscan +friars. In the diocese of Seville alone there were fourteen thousand +chaplains. There was a panic in the land. Every one was rushing to get +into holy orders. The Church had all the bread. Men must be monks or +starve. _Zelus domus tuae come-dit me,_ writes the British ambassador, +detailing these facts. + +We must remember that this was the age when the vast modern movement of +inquiry and investigation was beginning. Bacon was laying in England the +foundations of philosophy, casting with his prophetic intelligence the +horoscope of unborn sciences. Descartes was opening new vistas of +thought to the world. But in Spain, while the greatest names of her +literature occur at this time, they aimed at no higher object than to +amuse their betters. Cervantes wrote Quixote, but he died in a monk's +hood; and Lope de Vega was a familiar of the Inquisition. The sad story +of the mind of Spain in this momentous period may be written in one +word,--everybody believed and nobody inquired. + +The country sank fast into famine and anarchy. The madness of the monks +and the folly of the king expelled the Moors in 1609, and the loss of a +million of the best mechanics and farmers of Spain struck the nation +with a torpor like that of death. In 1650 Sir Edward Hyde wrote that +"affairs were in huge disorder." People murdered each other for a loaf +of bread. The marine perished for want of sailors. In the stricken land +nothing flourished but the rabble of monks and the royal authority. + +This is the curious fact. The Church and the Crown had brought them to +this misery, yet better than their lives the Spaniards loved the Church +and the Crown. A word against either would have cost any man his life in +those days. The old alliance still hung together firmly. The Church +bullied and dragooned the king in private, but it valued his despotic +power too highly ever to slight it in public. There was something +superhuman about the faith and veneration with which the people, and the +aristocracy as well, regarded the person of the king. There was somewhat +of gloomy and ferocious dignity about Philip II. which might easily +bring a courtier to his knees; but how can we account for the equal +reverence that was paid to the ninny Philip III., the debauched trifler +Philip IV., and the drivelling idiot Charles II.? + +Yet all of these were invested with the same attributes of the divine. +Their hands, like those of Midas, had the gift of making anything they +touched too precious for mortal use. A horse they had mounted could +never be ridden again. A woman they had loved must enter a nunnery when +they were tired of her. + +When Buckingham came down to Spain with Charles of England, the +Conde-Duque of Olivares was shocked and scandalized at the relation of +confidential friendship that existed between the prince and the duke. +The world never saw a prouder man than Olivares. His picture by +Velazquez hangs side by side with that of his royal master in Madrid. +You see at a glance that the count-duke is the better man physically, +mentally, morally. But he never dreamed it. He thought in his inmost +heart that the best thing about him was the favor of the worthless +fribble whom he governed. + +Through all the vicissitudes of Spanish history the force of these +married superstitions--reverence for the Church as distinguished from +the fear of God, and reverence for the king as distinguished from +respect for law--have been the ruling characteristics of the Spanish +mind. Among the fatal effects of this has been the extinction of +rational piety and rational patriotism. If a man was not a good Catholic +he was pretty sure to be an atheist. If he did not honor the king he was +an outlaw. The wretched story of Spanish dissensions beyond seas, and +the loss of the vast American empire, is distinctly traceable to the +exaggerated sentiment of personal honor, unrestrained by the absolute +authority of the crown. It seems impossible for the Spaniard of history +and tradition to obey anything out of his sight. The American provinces +have been lost one by one through petty quarrels and colonial rivalries. +At the first word of dispute their notion of honor obliges them to fly +to arms, and when blood has been shed reconciliation is impossible. So +weak is the principle of territorial loyalty, that whenever the +Peninsula government finds it necessary to overrule some violence of its +own soldiers, these find no difficulty in marching over to the +insurrection, or raising a fresh rebellion of their own. So little +progress has there been in Spain from the middle ages to to-day in true +political science, that we see such butchers as Caballero and Valmaseda +repeating to-day the crimes and follies of Cortes and Pamfilo Narvaez, +of Pizarro and Almagro, and the revolt of the bloodthirsty volunteers of +the Havana is only a question of time. + +It is true that in later years there has been the beginning of a better +system of thought and discussion in Spain. But the old tradition still +holds its own gallantly in Church and state. Nowhere in the world are +the forms of religion so rigidly observed, and the precepts of Christian +morality less regarded. The most facile beauties in Madrid are severe as +Minervas on Holy Thursday. I have seen a dozen fast men at the door of a +gambling-house fall on their knees in the dust as the Host passed by in +the street. Yet the fair were no less frail and the senoritos were no +less profligate for this unfeigned reverence for the outside of the cup +and platter. + +In the domain of politics there is still the lamentable disproportion +between honor and honesty. A high functionary cares nothing if the whole +Salon del Prado talks of his pilferings, but he will risk his life in an +instant if you call him no gentleman. The word "honor" is still used in +all legislative assemblies, even in England and America. But the idea +has gone by the board in all democracies, and the word means no more +than the chamberlain's sword or the speaker's mace. The only criterion +which the statesman of the nineteenth century applies to public acts is +that of expediency and legality. The first question is, "Is it lawful?" +the second, "Does it pay?" Both of these are questions of fact, and as +such susceptible of discussion and proof. The question of honor and +religion carries us at once into the realm of sentiment where no +demonstration is possible. But this is where every question is planted +from the beginning in Spanish politics. Every public matter presents +itself under this form: "Is it consistent with Spanish honor?" and "Will +it be to the advantage of the Roman Catholic Apostolic Church?" Now, +nothing is consistent with Spanish honor which does not recognize the +Spain of to-day as identical with the Spain of the sixteenth century, +and the bankrupt government of Madrid as equal in authority to the +world-wide autocracy of Charles V. And nothing is thought to be to the +advantage of the Church which does not tend to the concubinage of the +spiritual and temporal power, and to the muzzling of speech and the +drugging of the mind to sleep. + +Let any proposition be made which touches this traditional +susceptibility of race, no matter how sensible or profitable it may be, +and you hear in the Cortes and the press, and, louder than all, among +the idle cavaliers of the _cafes,_ the wildest denunciations of the +treason that would consent to look at things as they are. The men who +have ventured to support the common-sense view are speedily stormed into +silence or timid self-defence. The sword of Guzman is brandished in the +Chambers, the name of Pelayo is invoked, the memory of the Cid is +awakened, and the proposition goes out in a blaze of patriotic +pyrotechnics, to the intense satisfaction of the unthinking and the +grief of the judicious. The senoritos go back to the serious business of +their lives--coffee and cigarettes--with a genuine glow of pride in a +country which is capable of the noble self-sacrifice of cutting off its +nose to spite somebody else's face. + +But I repeat, the most favorable sign of the times is that this tyranny +of tradition is losing its power. A great deal was done by the single +act of driving out the queen. This was a blow at superstition which gave +to the whole body politic a most salutary shock. Never before in Spain +had a revolution been directed at the throne. Before it was always an +obnoxious ministry that was to be driven out. The monarch remained; and +the exiled outlaw of to-day might be premier to-morrow. But the fall of +Novaliches at the Bridge of Alcolea decided the fate not only of the +ministry but of the dynasty; and while General Concha was waiting for +the train to leave Madrid, Isabel of Bourbon and Divine Right were +passing the Pyrenees. + +Although the moral power of the Church is still so great, the +incorporation of freedom of worship in the constitution of 1869 has been +followed by a really remarkable development of freedom of thought. The +proposition was regarded by some with horror and by others with +contempt. One of the most enlightened statesmen in Spain once said to +me, "The provision for freedom of worship in the constitution is a mere +abstract proposition,--it can never have any practical value except for +foreigners. I cannot conceive of a Spaniard being anything but a +Catholic." And so powerful was this impression in the minds of the +deputies that the article only accords freedom of worship to foreigners +in Spain, and adds, hypothetically, that if any Spaniards should profess +any other religion than the Catholic, they are entitled to the same +liberty as foreigners. The Inquisition has been dead half a century, +but you can see how its ghost still haunts the official mind of Spain. +It is touching to see how the broken links of the chain of superstition +still hang about even those who imagine they are defying it. As in their +Christian burials, following unwittingly the example of the hated Moors, +they bear the corpse with uncovered face to the grave, and follow it +with the funeral torch of the Romans, so the formula of the Church +clings even to the mummery of the atheists. Not long ago in Madrid a man +and woman who belonged to some fantastic order which rejected religion +and law had a child born to them in the course of things, and determined +that it should begin life free from the taint of superstition. It should +not be christened, it should be named, in the Name of Reason. But they +could not break loose from the idea of baptism. They poured a bottle of +water on the shivering nape of the poor little neophyte, and its frail +life went out in its first wheezing week. + +But in spite of all this a spirit of religious inquiry is growing up in +Spain, and the Church sees it and cannot prevent it. It watches the +liberal newspapers and the Protestant prayer-meetings much as the old +giant in Bunyan's dream glared at the passing pilgrims, mumbling and +muttering toothless curses. It looks as if the dead sleep of uniformity +of thought were to be broken at last, and Spain were to enter the +healthful and vivifying atmosphere of controversy. + +Symptoms of a similar change may be seen in the world of politics. The +Republican party is only a year or two old, but what a vigorous and +noisy infant it is! With all its faults and errors, it seems to have the +promise of a sturdy and wholesome future. It refuses to be bound by the +memories of the past, but keeps its eyes fixed on the brighter +possibilities to come. Its journals, undeterred by the sword of Guzman +or the honor of all the Caballeros,--the men on horseback,--are +advocating such sensible measures as justice to the Antilles, and the +sale of outlying property, which costs more than it produces. Emilio +Castelar, casting behind him all the restraints of tradition, announces +as his idea of liberty "the right of all citizens to obey nothing but +the law." There is no sounder doctrine than this preached in Manchester +or Boston. If the Spanish people can be brought to see that God is +greater than the Church, and that the law is above the king, the day of +final deliverance is at hand. + + + + +TAUROMACHY + + +The bull-fight is the national festival of Spain. The rigid Britons have +had their fling at it for many years. The effeminate _badaud_ of Paris +has declaimed against its barbarity. Even the aristocracy of Spain has +begun to suspect it of vulgarity and to withdraw from the arena the +light of its noble countenance. But the Spanish people still hold it to +their hearts and refuse to be weaned from it. + +"As Panem et Circenses was the cry Among the Roman populace of old, So +Pan y Toros is the cry in Spain." + +It is a tradition which has passed into their national existence. They +received it from nowhere. They have transmitted it nowhither except to +their own colonies. In late years an effort has been made to transplant +it, but with small success. There were a few bull-fights four years ago +at Havre. There was a sensation of curiosity which soon died away. This +year in London the experiment was tried, but was hooted out of +existence, to the great displeasure of the Spanish journals, who said +the ferocious Islanders would doubtless greatly prefer baiting to death +a half dozen Irish serfs from the estate of Lord Fritters,--a gentle +diversion in which we are led to believe the British peers pass their +leisure hours. + +It is this monopoly of the bull-fight which so endears it to the Spanish +heart. It is to them conclusive proof of the vast superiority of both +the human and taurine species in Spain. The eminent torero, Pepe Illo, +said: "The love of bulls is inherent in man, especially in the Spaniard, +among which glorious people there have been bull-fights ever since bulls +were, because," adds Pepe, with that modesty which forms so charming a +trait of the Iberian character, "the Spanish men are as much more brave +than all other men, as the Spanish bull is more savage and valiant than +all other bulls." + +The sport permeates the national life. I have seen it woven into the +tapestry of palaces, and rudely stamped on the handkerchief of the +peasant. It is the favorite game of children in the street. Loyal Spain +was thrilled with joy recently on reading in its Paris correspondence +that when the exiled Prince of Asturias went for a half-holiday to visit +his imperial comrade at the Tuileries, the urchins had a game of "toro" +on the terrace, admirably conducted by the little Bourbon and followed +up with great spirit by the little Montijo-Bonaparte. + +The bull-fight has not always enjoyed the royal favor. Isabel the +Catholic would fain have abolished bathing and bull-fighting together. +The Spaniards, who willingly gave up their ablutions, stood stoutly by +their bulls, and the energetic queen was baffled. Again when the +Bourbons came in with Philip V., the courtiers turned up their thin +noses at the coarse diversion, and induced the king to abolish it. It +would not stay abolished, however, and Philip's successor built the +present coliseum in expiation. The spectacle has, nevertheless, lost +much of its early splendor by the hammering of time. Formerly the gayest +and bravest gentlemen of the court, mounted on the best horses in the +kingdom, went into the arena and defied the bull in the names of their +lady-loves. Now the bull is baited and slain by hired artists, and the +horses they mount are the sorriest hacks that ever went to the knacker. + +One of the most brilliant shows of the kind that was ever put upon the +scene was the Festival of Bulls given by Philip IV. in honor of Charles +I., + + "When the Stuart came from far, + Led by his love's sweet pain, + To Mary, the guiding star + That shone in the heaven of Spain." + +And the memory of that dazzling occasion was renewed by Ferdinand VII. +in the year of his death, when he called upon his subjects to swear +allegiance to his baby Isabel. This festival took place in the Plaza +Mayor. The king and court occupied the same balconies which Charles and +his royal friend and model had filled two centuries before. The +champions were poor nobles, of good blood but scanty substance, who +fought for glory and pensions, and had quadrilles of well-trained +bull-fighters at their stirrups to prevent the farce from becoming +tragedy. The royal life of Isabel of Bourbon was inaugurated by the +spilled blood of one hundred bulls save one. The gory prophecy of that +day has been well sustained. Not one year has passed since then free +from blood shed in her cause. + +But these extraordinary attractions are not necessary to make a festival +of bulls the most seductive of all pleasures to a Spaniard. On any +pleasant Sunday afternoon, from Easter to All Souls, you have only to go +into the street to see that there is some great excitement fusing the +populace into one living mass of sympathy. All faces are turned one way, +all minds are filled with one purpose. From the Puerta del Sol down the +wide Alcala a vast crowd winds, solid as a glacier and bright as a +kaleidoscope. From the grandee in his blazoned carriage to the manola in +her calico gown, there is no class unrepresented. Many a red hand grasps +the magic ticket which is to open the realm of enchantment to-day, and +which represents short commons for a week before. The pawnbrokers' shops +have been very animated for the few preceding days. There is nothing too +precious to be parted with for the sake of the bulls. Many of these +smart girls have made the ultimate sacrifice for that coveted scrap of +paper. They would leave one their mother's cross with the children of +Israel rather than not go. It is no cheap entertainment. The worst +places in the broiling sun cost twenty cents, four reals; and the boxes +are sold usually at fifteen dollars. These prices are necessary to cover +the heavy expenses of bulls, horses, and gladiators. + +The way to the bull-ring is one of indescribable animation. The cabmen +drive furiously this day their broken-kneed nags, who will soon be found +on the horns of the bulls, for this is the natural death of the Madrid +cab-horse; the omnibus teams dash gayly along with their shrill chime of +bells; there are the rude jests of clowns and the high voices of excited +girls; the water-venders droning their tempting cry, "Cool as the snow!" +the sellers of fans and the merchants of gingerbread picking up their +harvests in the hot and hungry crowd. + +The Plaza de Toros stands just outside the monumental gate of the +Alcala. It is a low, squat, prison-like circus of stone, stuccoed and +whitewashed, with no pretence of ornament or architectural effect. There +is no nonsense whatever about it. It is built for the killing of bulls +and for no other purpose. Around it, on a day of battle, you will find +encamped great armies of the lower class of Madrilenos, who, being at +financial ebb-tide, cannot pay to go in. But they come all the same, to +be in the enchanted neighborhood, to hear the shouts and roars of the +favored ones within, and to seize any possible occasion for getting in. +Who knows? A caballero may come out and give them his check. An English +lady may become disgusted and go home, taking away numerous lords whose +places will be vacant. The sky may fall, and they may catch four reals' +worth of larks. It is worth taking the chances. + +One does not soon forget the first sight of the full coliseum. In the +centre is the sanded arena, surrounded by a high barrier. Around this +rises the graded succession of stone benches for the people; then +numbered seats for the connoisseurs; and above a row of boxes extending +around the circle. The building holds, when full, some fourteen thousand +persons; and there is rarely any vacant space. For myself I can say that +what I vainly strove to imagine in the coliseum at Rome, and in the more +solemn solitude of the amphitheatres of Capua and Pompeii, came up +before me with the vividness of life on entering the bull-ring of +Madrid. This, and none other, was the classic arena. This was the crowd +that sat expectant, under the blue sky, in the hot glare of the South, +while the doomed captives of Dacia or the sectaries of Judea commended +their souls to the gods of the Danube, or the Crucified of Galilee. Half +the sand lay in the blinding sun. Half the seats were illuminated by the +fierce light. The other half was in shadow, and the dark crescent crept +slowly all the afternoon across the arena as the sun declined in the +west. + +It is hard to conceive a more brilliant scene. The women put on their +gayest finery for this occasion. In the warm light, every bit of color +flashes out, every combination falls naturally into its place. I am +afraid the luxuriance of hues in the dress of the fair Iberians would be +considered shocking in Broadway, but in the vast frame and broad light +of the Plaza the effect was very brilliant. Thousands of party-colored +paper fans are sold at the ring. The favorite colors are the national +red and yellow, and the fluttering of these broad, bright disks of color +is dazzlingly attractive. There is a gayety of conversation, a quick +fire of repartee, shouts of recognition and salutation, which altogether +make up a bewildering confusion. + +The weary young water-men scream their snow-cold refreshment. The +orange-men walk with their gold-freighted baskets along the barrier, and +throw their oranges with the most marvellous skill and certainty to +people in distant boxes or benches. They never miss their mark. They +will throw over the heads of a thousand people a dozen oranges into the +outstretched hands of customers, so swiftly that it seems like one line +of gold from the dealer to the buyer. + +At length the blast of a trumpet announces the clearing of the ring. The +idlers who have been lounging in the arena are swept out by the +alguaciles, and the hum of conversation gives way to an expectant +silence. When the last loafer has reluctantly retired, the great gate is +thrown open, and the procession of the toreros enters. They advance in a +glittering line: first the marshals of the day, then the picadors on +horseback, then the matadors on foot surrounded each by his quadrille of +chulos. They walk towards the box which holds the city fathers, under +whose patronage the show is given, and formally salute the authority. +This is all very classic, also, recalling the _Ave Caesar, morituri,_ +etc., of the gladiators. It lacks, however, the solemnity of the Roman +salute, from those splendid fellows who would never all leave the arena +alive. A bullfighter is sometimes killed, it is true, but the percentage +of deadly danger is scarcely enough to make a spectator's heart beat as +the bedizened procession comes flashing by in the sun. + +The municipal authority throws the bowing alguacil a key, which he +catches in his hat, or is hissed if he misses it. With this he unlocks +the door through which the bull is to enter, and then scampers off with +undignified haste through the opposite entrance. There is a bugle +flourish, the door flies open, and the bull rushes out, blind with the +staring light, furious with rage, trembling in every limb. This is the +most intense moment of the day. The glorious brute is the target of +twelve thousand pairs of eyes. There is a silence as of death, while +every one waits to see his first movement. He is doomed from the +beginning; the curtain has risen on a three-act tragedy, which will +surely end with his death, but the incidents which are to fill the +interval are all unknown. The minds and eyes of all that vast assembly +know nothing for the time but the movements of that brute. He stands for +an instant recovering his senses. He has been shot suddenly out of the +darkness into that dazzling light. He sees around him a sight such as he +never confronted before,--a wall of living faces lit up by thousands of +staring eyes. He does not dwell long upon this, however; in his pride +and anger he sees a nearer enemy. The horsemen have taken position near +the gate, where they sit motionless as burlesque statues, their long +ashen spears, iron-tipped, in rest, their wretched nags standing +blindfolded, with trembling knees, and necks like dromedaries, not +dreaming of their near fate. The bull rushes, with a snort, at the +nearest one. The picador holds firmly, planting his spear-point in the +shoulder of the brute. Sometimes the bull flinches at this sharp and +sudden punishment, and the picador, by a sudden turn to the left, gets +away unhurt. Then there is applause for the torero and hisses for the +bull. Some indignant amateurs go so far as to call him cow, and to +inform him that he is the son of his mother. But oftener he rushes in, +not caring for the spear, and with one toss of his sharp horns tumbles +horse and rider in one heap against the barrier and upon the sand. The +capeadores, the cloak-bearers, come fluttering around and divert the +bull from his prostrate victims. The picador is lifted to his feet,--his +iron armor not permitting him to rise without help,--and the horse is +rapidly scanned to see if his wounds are immediately mortal. If not, the +picador mounts again, and provokes the bull to another rush. A horse +will usually endure two or three attacks before dying. Sometimes a +single blow from in front pierces the heart, and the blood spouts forth +in a cataract. In this case the picador hastily dismounts, and the +bridle and saddle are stripped in an instant from the dying brute. If a +bull is energetic and rapid in execution, he will clear the arena in a +few moments. He rushes at one horse after another, tears them open with +his terrible "spears" ("horns" is a word never used in the ring), and +sends them madly galloping over the arena, trampling out their gushing +bowels as they fly. The assistants watch their opportunity, from time to +time, to take the wounded horses out of the ring, plug up their gaping +rents with tow, and sew them roughly up for another sally. It is +incredible to see what these poor creatures will endure,--carrying their +riders at a lumbering gallop over the ring, when their thin sides seem +empty of entrails. + +Sometimes the bull comes upon the dead body of a horse he has killed. +The smell of blood and the unmoving helplessness of the victim excite +him to the highest pitch. He gores and tramples the carcass, and tosses +it in the air with evident enjoyment, until diverted by some living +tormentor. You will occasionally see a picador nervous and anxious about +his personal safety. They are ignorant and superstitious, and subject to +presentiments; they often go into the ring with the impression that +their last hour has come. If one takes counsel of his fears and avoids +the shock of combat, the hard-hearted crowd immediately discover it and +rain maledictions on his head. I saw a picador once enter the ring as +pale as death. He kept carefully out of the way of the bull for a few +minutes. The sharp-eyed Spaniards noticed it, and commenced shouting, +"Craven! He wants to live forever!" They threw orange-skins at him, and +at last, their rage vanquishing their economy, they pelted him with +oranges. His pallor gave way to a flush of shame and anger. He attacked +the bull so awkwardly that the animal, killing his horse, threw him also +with great violence. His hat flew off, his bald head struck the hard +soil. He lay there as one dead, and was borne away lifeless. This +mollified the indignant people, and they desisted from their abuse. + +A cowardly bull is much more dangerous than a courageous one, who lowers +his head, shuts his eyes, and goes blindly at everything he sees. The +last refuge of a bull in trouble is to leap the barrier, where he +produces a lively moment among the water-carriers and orange-boys and +stage-carpenters. I once saw a bull, who had done very little execution +in the arena, leap the barrier suddenly and toss an unfortunate +carpenter from the gangway sheer into the ring. He picked himself up, +laughed, saluted his friends, ran a little distance and fell, and was +carried out dying. Fatal accidents are rarely mentioned in the +newspapers, and it is considered not quite good form to talk about them. + +When the bull has killed enough horses, the first act of the play +terminates. But this is an exceedingly delicate matter for the +authorities to decide. The audience will not endure any economy in this +respect. If the bull is enterprising and "voluntary," he must have as +many horses as he can dispose of. One day in Madrid the bulls operated +with such activity that the supply of horses was exhausted before the +close of the show, and the contractors rushed out in a panic and bought +a half dozen screws from the nearest cab-stand. If the president orders +out the horses before their time, he will hear remarks by no means +complimentary from the austere groundlings. + +The second act is the play of the banderilleros, the flag-men. They are +beautifully dressed and superbly built fellows, principally from +Andalusia, got up precisely like Figaro in the opera. Theirs is the most +delicate and graceful operation of the bull-fight. They take a pair of +barbed darts, with little banners fluttering at their ends, and provoke +the bull to rush at them. At the instant he reaches them, when it seems +nothing can save them, they step aside and plant the banderillas in the +neck of the bull. If the bull has been cowardly and sluggish, and the +spectators have called for "fire," darts are used filled with detonating +powder at the base, which explode in the flesh of the bull. He dances +and skips like a kid or a colt in his agony, which is very diverting to +the Spanish mind. A prettier conceit is that of confining small birds in +paper cages, which come apart when the banderilla is planted, and set +the little fluttering captives free. + +Decking the bull with these torturing ornaments is the last stage in the +apprenticeship of the chulo, before he rises to the dignity of matador, +or killer. The matadors themselves on special occasions think it no +derogation from their dignity to act as banderilleros. But they usually +accompany the act with some exaggeration of difficulty that reaps for +them a harvest of applause. Frascuelo sits in a chair and plants the +irritating bannerets. Lagartijo lays his handkerchief on the ground and +stands upon it while he coifs the bull. A performance which never fails +to bring down the house is for the torero to await the rush of the bull, +and when the bellowing monster comes at him with winking eyes and +lowered head, to put his slippered foot between the horns, and vault +lightly over his back. + +These chulos exhibit the most wonderful skill and address in evading the +assault of the bull. They can almost always trick him by waving their +cloaks a little out of the line of their flight. Sometimes, however, the +bull runs straight at the man, disregarding the flag, and if the +distance is great to the barrier the danger is imminent; for swift as +these men are, the bulls are swifter. Once I saw the bull strike the +torero at the instant he vaulted over the barrier. He fell sprawling +some distance the other side, safe, but terribly bruised and stunned. As +soon as he could collect himself he sprang into the arena again, looking +very seedy; and the crowd roared, "Saved by miracle." I could but think +of Basilio, who, when the many cried, "A miracle," answered, "Industria! +Industria!" But these bullfighters are all very pious, and glad to curry +favor with the saints by attributing every success to their +intervention. The famous matador, Paco Montes, fervently believed in an +amulet he carried, and in the invocation of Our Lord of the True Cross. +He called upon this special name in every tight place, and while other +people talked of his luck he stoutly affirmed it was his faith that +saved him; often he said he saw the veritable picture of the Passion +coming down between him and the bull, in answer to his prayers. At every +bull-ring there is a little chapel in the refreshment-room where these +devout ruffians can toss off a prayer or two in the intervals of work. A +priest is always at hand with a consecrated wafer, to visa the torero's +passport who has to start suddenly for Paradise. It is not exactly +regular, but the ring has built many churches and endowed many chapels, +and must not be too rigidly regarded. In many places the chief boxes are +reserved for the clergy, and prayers are hurried through an hour earlier +on the day of combat. + +The final act is the death of the bull. It must come at last. His +exploits in the early part of his career afford to the amateur some +indication of the manner in which he will meet his end. If he is a +generous, courageous brute, with more heart than brains, he will die +gallantly and be easily killed. But if he has shown reflection, +forethought, and that saving quality of the oppressed, suspicion, the +matador has a serious work before him. The bull is always regarded from +this objective standpoint. The more power of reason the brute has, the +worse opinion the Spaniard has of him. A stupid creature who rushes +blindly on the sword of the matador is an animal after his own heart. +But if there be one into whose brute brain some glimmer of the awful +truth has come,--and this sometimes happens,--if he feels the solemn +question at issue between him and his enemy, if he eyes the man and not +the flag, if he refuses to be fooled by the waving lure, but keeps all +his strength and all his faculties for his own defence, the soul of the +Spaniard rises up in hate and loathing. He calls on the matador to kill +him any way. If he will not rush at the flag, the crowd shouts for the +demi-lune; and the noble brute is houghed from behind, and your soul +grows sick with shame of human nature, at the hellish glee with which +they watch him hobbling on his severed legs. + +This seldom happens. The final act is usually an admirable study of +coolness and skill against brute force. When the banderillas are all +planted, and the bugles sound for the third time, the matador, the +espada, the sword, steps forward with a modest consciousness of +distinguished merit, and makes a brief speech to the corregidor, +offering in honor of the good city of Madrid to kill the bull. He turns +on his heel, throws his hat by a dexterous back-handed movement over the +barrier, and advances, sword and cape in hand, to where his noble enemy +awaits him. The bull appears to recognize a more serious foe than any he +has encountered. He stops short and eyes the newcomer curiously. It is +always an impressive picture: the tortured, maddened animal, whose thin +flanks are palpitating with his hot breath, his coat one shining mass of +blood from the darts and the spear-thrusts, his massive neck still +decked as in mockery with the fluttering flags, his fine head and muzzle +seeming sharpened by the hour's terrible experience, his formidable +horns crimsoned with onset; in front of this fiery bulk of force and +courage, the slight, sinewy frame of the killer, whose only reliance is +on his coolness and his intellect. I never saw a matador come carelessly +to his work. He is usually pale and alert. He studies the bull for a +moment with all his eyes. He waves the blood-red engano, or lure, before +his face. If the bull rushes at it with his eyes shut, the work is easy. +He has only to select his own stroke and make it. But if the bull is +jealous and sly, it requires the most careful management to kill him. +The disposition of the bull is developed by a few rapid passes of the +red flag. This must not be continued too long: the tension of the nerves +of the auditory will not bear trifling. I remember one day the crowd was +aroused to fury by a bugler from the adjoining barracks playing retreat +at the moment of decision. All at once the matador seizes the favorable +instant. He poises his sword as the bull rushes upon him. The point +enters just between the left shoulder and the spine; the long blade +glides in up to the hilt. The bull reels and staggers and dies. +Sometimes the matador severs the vertebrae. The effect is like magic. He +lays the point of his sword between the bull's horns, as lightly as a +lady who touches her cavalier with her fan, and he falls dead as a +stone. + +If the blow is a clean, well-delivered one, the enthusiasm of the people +is unbounded. Their approval comes up in a thunderous shout of "Well +done! Valiente! Viva!" A brown shower of cigars rains on the sand. The +victor gathers them up: they fill his hands, his pockets, his hat. He +gives them to his friends, and the aromatic shower continues. Hundreds +of hats are flung into the ring. He picks them up and shies them back to +their shouting owners. Sometimes a dollar is mingled with the flying +compliments; but the enthusiasm of the Spaniard rarely carries him so +far as that. For ten minutes after a good estocada, the matador is the +most popular man in Spain. + +But the trumpets sound again, the door of the Toril flies open, another +bull comes rushing out, and the present interest quenches the past. The +play begins again, with its sameness of purpose and its infinite variety +of incident. + +It is not quite accurate to say, as is often said, that the bull-fighter +runs no risk. El Tato, the first sword of Spain, lost his leg in 1869, +and his life was saved by the coolness and courage of Lagartijo, who +succeeded him in the championship, and who was terribly wounded in the +foot the next summer. Arjona killed a bull in the same year, which +tossed and ruptured him after receiving his death-blow. Pepe Illo died +in harness, on the sand. Every year picadors, chulos, and such small +deer are killed, without gossip. I must copy the inscription on the +sword which Tato presented to Lagartijo, as a specimen of tauromachian +literature:-- + +"If, as philosophers say, gratitude is the tribute of noble souls, +accept, dear Lagartijo, this present; preserve it as a sacred relic, for +it symbolizes the memory of my glories, and is at the same time the mute +witness of my misfortune. With it I killed my last bull named +_Peregrino,_ bred by D. Vicente Martinez, fourth of the fight of the 7th +June, 1869, in which act I received the wound which has caused the +amputation of my right leg. The will of man can do nothing against the +designs of Providence. Nothing but resignation is left to thy +affectionate friend, Antonio Sanchez [Tato]." + +It is in consideration of the mingled skill and danger of the trade, +that such enormous fees are paid the principal performers. The leading +swordsmen receive about three hundred dollars for each performance, and +they are eagerly disputed by the direction of all the arenas of Spain. +In spite of these large wages, they are rarely rich. They are as +wasteful and improvident as gamblers. Tato, when he lost his leg, lost +his means of subsistence, and his comrades organized one or two benefits +to keep him from want. Cuchares died in the Havana, and left no +provision for his family. + +There is a curious naivete in the play-bill of a bull-fight, the only +conscientious public document I have seen in Spain. You know how we of +Northern blood exaggerate the attractions of all sorts of shows, +trusting to the magnanimity of the audience. "He warn't nothing like so +little as that," confesses Mr. Magsman, "but where's your dwarf what +is?" There are few who have the moral courage to demand their money back +because they counted but thirty-nine thieves when the bills promised +forty. But the management of the Madrid bull-ring knows its public too +well to promise more than it is sure of performing. It announces six +bulls, and positively no more. It says there will be no use of +bloodhounds. It promises two picadors, with three others in reserve, and +warns the public that if all five become inutilized in the combat, no +more will be issued. With so fair a preliminary statement, what crowd, +however inflammable, could mob the management? + +Some industrious and ascetic statistician has visited Spain and +interested himself in the bullring. Here are some of the results of his +researches. In 1864 the number of places in all the taurine +establishments of Spain was 509,283, of which 246,813 belonged to the +cities, and 262,470 to the country. + +In the year 1864, there were 427 bull-fights, of which 294 took place in +the cities, and 13 3 in the country towns. The receipts of ninety-eight +bullrings in 1864 reached the enormous sum of two hundred and seventeen +and a half millions of reals (nearly $11,000,000). The 427 bull-fights +which took place in Spain during the year 1864 caused the death of 2989 +of these fine animals, and about 7473 horses,--something more than half +the number of the cavalry of Spain. These wasted victims could have +ploughed three hundred thousand hectares of land, which would have +produced a million and a half hectolitres of grain, worth eighty +millions of reals; all this without counting the cost of the slaughtered +cattle, worth say seven or eight millions, at a moderate calculation. + +Thus far the Arithmetic Man; to whom responds the tauromachian +aficionado: That the bulk of this income goes to purposes of charity; +that were there no bull-fights, bulls of good race would cease to be +bred; that nobody ever saw a horse in a bull-ring that could plough a +furrow of a hundred yards without giving up the ghost; that the nerve, +dexterity, and knowledge of brute nature gained in the arena is a good +thing to have in the country; that, in short, it is our way of amusing +ourselves, and if you don't like it you can go home and cultivate +prize-fighters, or kill two-year-old colts on the racecourse, or murder +jockeys in hurdle-races, or break your own necks in steeple-chases, or +in search of wilder excitement thicken your blood with beer or burn your +souls out with whiskey. + +And this is all we get by our well-meant effort to convince Spaniards of +the brutality of bullfights. Must Chicago be virtuous before I can +object to Madrid ale, and say that its cakes are unduly gingered? + +Yet even those who most stoutly defend the bull-fight feel that its +glory has departed and that it has entered into the era of full +decadence. I was talking one evening with a Castilian gentleman, one of +those who cling with most persistence to the national traditions, and he +confessed that the noble art was wounded to death. "I do not refer, as +many do, to the change from the old times, when gentlemen fought on +their own horses in the ring. That was nonsense, and could not survive +the time of Cervantes. Life is too short to learn bull-fighting. A +grandee of Spain, if he knows anything else, would make a sorry torero. +The good times of the art are more modern. I saw the short day of the +glory of the ring when I was a boy. There was a race of gladiators then, +such as the world will never see again,--mighty fighters before the +king. Pepe Illo and Costillares, Romero and Paco Montes,--the world does +not contain the stuff to make their counterparts. They were serious, +earnest men. They would have let their right arms wither before they +would have courted the applause of the mob by killing a bull outside of +the severe traditions. Compare them with the men of to-day, with your +Rafael Molina, who allows himself to be gored, playing with a heifer; +with your frivolous boys like Frascuelo. I have seen the ring convulsed +with laughter as that buffoon strutted across the arena, flirting his +muleta as a manola does her skirts, the bewildered bull not knowing what +to make of it. It was enough to make Illo turn in his bloody grave. + +"Why, my young friend, I remember when bulls were a dignified and +serious matter; when we kept account of their progress from their +pasture to the capital. We had accounts of their condition by couriers +and carrier-pigeons. On the day when they appeared it was a high +festival in the court. All the sombreros in Spain were there, the ladies +in national dress with white mantillas. The young queen always in her +palco (may God guard her). The fighters of that day were high priests of +art; there was something of veneration in the regard that was paid them. +Duchesses threw them bouquets with billets-doux. Gossip and newspapers +have destroyed the romance of common life. + +"The only pleasure I take in the Plaza de Toros now is at night. The +custodians know me and let me moon about in the dark. When all that is +ignoble and mean has faded away with the daylight, it seems to me the +ghosts of the old time come back upon the sands. I can fancy the patter +of light hoofs, the glancing of spectral horns. I can imagine the agile +tread of Romero, the deadly thrust of Montes, the whisper of +long-vanished applause, and the clapping of ghostly hands. I am growing +too old for such skylarking, and I sometimes come away with a cold in my +head. But you will never see a bull-fight you can enjoy as I do these +visionary festivals, where memory is the corregidor, and where the only +spectators are the stars and I." + + + + +RED-LETTER DAYS + + +No people embrace more readily than the Spaniards the opportunity of +spending a day without work. Their frequent holidays are a relic of the +days when the Church stood between the people and their taskmasters, and +fastened more firmly its hold upon the hearts of the ignorant and +overworked masses, by becoming at once the fountain of salvation in the +next world, and of rest in this. The government rather encouraged this +growth of play-days, as the Italian Bourbons used to foster mendicancy, +by way of keeping the people as unthrifty as possible. Lazzaroni are so +much more easily managed than burghers! + +It is only the holy days that are successfully celebrated in Spain. The +state has tried of late years to consecrate to idle parade a few +revolutionary dates, but they have no vigorous national life. They grow +feebler and more colorless year by year, because they have no depth of +earth. + +The most considerable of these national festivals is the 2d of May, +which commemorates the slaughter of patriots in the streets of Madrid by +Murat. This is a political holiday which appeals more strongly to the +national character of the Spaniards than any other. The mingled pride of +race and ignorant hate of everything foreign which constitutes that +singular passion called Spanish patriotism, or Espanolismo, is fully +called into play by the recollections of the terrible scenes of their +war of independence, which drove out a foreign king, and brought back +into Spain a native despot infinitely meaner and more injurious. It is +an impressive study in national character and thought, this +self-satisfaction of even liberal Spaniards at the reflection that, by a +vast and supreme effort of the nation, after countless sacrifices and +with the aid of coalesced Europe, they exchanged Joseph Bonaparte for +Ferdinand VII. and the Inquisition. But the victims of the Dos de Mayo +fell fighting. Daoiz, Velarde, and Ruiz were bayoneted at their guns, +scorning surrender. The alcalde of Mostoles, a petty village of Castile, +called on Spain to rise against the tyrant. And Spain obeyed the summons +of this cross-roads justice. The contempt of probabilities, the +Quixotism of these successive demonstrations, endear them to the Spanish +heart. + +Every 2d of May the city of Madrid gives up the day to funeral honors to +the dead of 1808. The city government, attended by its Maceros, in their +gorgeous robes of gold and scarlet, with silver maces and long white +plumes; the public institutions of all grades, with invalids and +veterans and charity children; a large detachment of the army and +navy,--form a vast procession at the Town Hall, and, headed by the +Supreme Government, march to slow music through the Puerta del Sol and +the spacious Alcala street to the granite obelisk in the Prado which +marks the resting-place of the patriot dead. I saw the regent of the +kingdom, surrounded by his cabinet, sauntering all a summer's afternoon +under a blazing sun over the dusty mile that separates the monument from +the Ayuntamiento. The Spaniards are hopelessly inefficient in these +matters. The people always fill the line of march, and a rivulet of +procession meanders feebly through a wilderness of mob. It is fortunate +that the crowd is more entertaining than the show. + +The Church has a very indifferent part in this ceremonial. It does +nothing more than celebrate a mass in the shade of the dark cypresses in +the Place of Loyalty, and then leaves the field clear to the secular +power. But this is the only purely civic ceremony I ever saw in Spain. +The Church is lord of the holidays for the rest of the year. + +In the middle of May comes the feast of the ploughboy patron of +Madrid,--San Isidro. He was a true Madrileno in tastes, and spent his +time lying in the summer shade or basking in the winter sunshine, seeing +visions, while angels came down from heaven and did his farm chores for +him. The angels are less amiable nowadays, but every true child of +Madrid reveres the example and envies the success of the San Isidro +method of doing business. In the process of years this lazy lout has +become a great saint, and his bones have done more extensive and +remarkable miracle-work than any equal amount of phosphate in existence. +In desperate cases of sufficient rank the doctors throw up the sponge +and send for Isidro's urn, and the drugging having ceased, the noble +patient frequently recovers, and much honor and profit comes thereby to +the shrine of the saint. There is something of the toady in Isidro's +composition. You never hear of his curing any one of less than princely +rank. I read in an old chronicle of Madrid, that once when Queen Isabel +the Catholic was hunting in the hills that overlook the Manzanares, near +what is now the oldest and quaintest quarter of the capital, she killed +a bear of great size and ferocity; and doubtless thinking it might not +be considered lady-like to have done it unassisted, she gave San Isidro +the credit of the lucky blow and built him a nice new chapel for it near +the Church of San Andres. If there are any doubters, let them go and see +the chapel, as I did. When the allied armies of the Christian kings of +Spain were seeking for a passage through the hills to the Plains of +Tolosa, a shepherd appeared and led them straight to victory and endless +fame. After the battle, which broke the Moorish power forever in Central +Spain, instead of looking for the shepherd and paying him handsomely for +his timely scout-service, they found it more pious and economical to say +it was San Isidro in person who had kindly made himself flesh for this +occasion. By the great altar in the Cathedral of Toledo stand side by +side the statues of Alonso VIII., the Christian commander, and San Isidro +brazenly swelling in the shepherd garb of that unknown guide who led +Alonso and his chivalry through the tangled defiles of the Sierra +Morena. + +His fete is the Derby Day of Madrid. The whole town goes out to his +Hermitage on the further banks of the Manzanares, and spends a day or +two of the soft spring weather in noisy frolic. The little church stands +on a bare brown hill, and all about it is an improvised village +consisting half of restaurants and the other half of toyshops. The +principal traffic is in a pretty sort of glass whistle which forms the +stem of an artificial rose, worn in the button-hole in the intervals of +tooting, and little earthen pig-bells, whose ringing scares away the +lightning. There is but one duty of the day to flavor all its pleasures. +The faithful must go into the oratory, pay a penny, and kiss a +glass-covered relic of the saint which the attendant ecclesiastic holds +in his hand. The bells are rung violently until the church is full; then +the doors are shut and the kissing begins. They are very expeditious +about it. The worshippers drop on their knees by platoons before the +railing. The long-robed relic-keeper puts the precious trinket rapidly +to their lips; an acolyte follows with a saucer for the cash. The glass +grows humid with many breaths. The priest wipes it with a dirty napkin +from time to time. The multitude advances, kisses, pays, and retires, +till all have their blessing; then the doors are opened and they all +pass out,--the bells ringing furiously for another detachment. The +pleasures of the day are like those of all fairs and public merrymaking. +Working-people come to be idle, and idle people come to have something +to do. There is much eating and little drinking. The milk-stalls are +busier than the wine-shops. The people are gay and jolly, but very +decent and clean and orderly. To the east of the Hermitage, over and +beyond the green cool valley, the city rises on its rocky hills, its +spires shining in the cloudless blue. Below on the emerald meadows there +are the tents and wagons of those who have come from a distance to the +Romeria. The sound of guitars and the drone of peasant songs come up the +hill, and groups of men are leaping in the wild barbaric dances of +Iberia. The scene is of another day and time. The Celt is here, lord of +the land. You can see these same faces at Donnybrook Fair. These +large-mouthed, short-nosed, rosy-cheeked peasant-girls are called +Dolores and Catalina, but they might be called Bridget and Kathleen. +These strapping fellows, with long simian upper lips, with brown +leggings and patched, mud-colored overcoats, who are leaping and +swinging their cudgels in that Pyrrhic round are as good Tipperary boys +as ever mobbed an agent or pounded, twenty to one, a landlord to death. +The same unquestioning, fervent faith, the same superficial good-nature, +the same facility to be amused, and at bottom the same cowardly and +cruel blood-thirst. What is this mysterious law of race which is +stronger than time, or varying climates, or changing institutions? Which +is cause, and which is effect, race or religion? + +The great Church holiday of the year is Corpus Christi. On this day the +Host is carried in solemn procession through the principal streets, +attended by the high officers of state, several battalions of each arm +of the service in fresh bright uniforms, and a vast array of +ecclesiastics in the most gorgeous stoles and chasubles their vestiary +contains. The windows along the line of march are gayly decked with +flags and tapestry. Work is absolutely suspended, and the entire +population dons its holiday garb. The Puerta del Sol--at this season +blazing with relentless light--is crowded with patient Madrilenos in +their best clothes, the brown-cheeked maidens with flowing silks as in a +ball-room, and with no protection against the ardent sky but the +fluttering fan they hold in their ungloved hands. As everything is +behind time in this easy-going land, there are two or three hours of +broiling gossip on the glowing pavement before the Sacred Presence is +announced by the ringing of silver bells. As the superb structure of +filigree gold goes by, a movement of reverent worship vibrates through +the crowd. Forgetful of silks and broadcloth and gossip, they fall on +their knees in one party-colored mass, and, bowing their heads and +beating their breasts, they mutter their mechanical prayers. There are +thinking men who say these shows are necessary; that the Latin mind must +see with bodily eyes the thing it worships, or the worship will fade +away from its heart. If there were no cathedrals and masses, they say, +there would be no religion; if there were no king, there would be no +law. But we should not accept too hurriedly this ethnological theory of +necessity, which would reject all principles of progress and positive +good, and condemn half the human race to perpetual childhood. There was +a time when we Anglo-Saxons built cathedrals and worshipped the king. +Look at Salisbury and Lincoln and Ely; read the history of the growth of +parliaments. There is nothing more beautifully sensuous than the +religious spirit that presided over those master works of English +Gothic; there is nothing in life more abject than the relics of the +English love and fear of princes. But the steady growth of centuries has +left nothing but the outworn shell of the old religion and the old +loyalty. The churches and the castles still exist. The name of the king +still is extant in the constitution. They remain as objects of taste and +tradition, hallowed by a thousand memories of earlier days, but, thanks +be to God who has given us the victory, the English race is now +incapable of making a new cathedral or a new king. + +Let us not in our safe egotism deny to others the possibility of a like +improvement. + +This summery month of June is rich in saints. The great apostles, John, +Peter, and Paul, have their anniversaries on its closing days, and the +shortest nights of the year are given up to the riotous eating of +fritters in their honor. I am afraid that the progress of luxury and +love of ease has wrought a change in the observance of these festivals. +The feast of midsummer night is called the Verbena of St. John, which +indicates that it was formerly a morning solemnity, as the vervain could +not be hunted by the youths and maidens of Spain with any success or +decorum at midnight. But of late years it may be that this useful and +fragrant herb has disappeared from the tawny hills of Castile. It is +sure that midsummer has grown too warm for any field work. So that the +Madrilenos may be pardoned for spending the day napping, and swarming +into the breezy Prado in the light of moon and stars and gas. The Prado +is ordinarily the promenade of the better classes, but every Spanish +family has its John, Paul, and Peter, and the crowded barrios of Toledo +and the Penue-las pour out their ragged hordes to the popular festival. +The scene has a strange gypsy wildness. From the round point of Atocha +to where Cybele, throned among spouting waters, drives southward her +spanking team of marble lions, the park is filled with the merry +roysterers. At short intervals are the busy groups of fritter merchants; +over the crackling fire a great caldron of boiling oil; beside it a +mighty bowl of dough. The bunolero, with the swift precision of +machinery, dips his hand into the bowl and makes a delicate ring of the +tough dough, which he throws into the bubbling caldron. It remains but a +few seconds, and his grimy acolyte picks it out with a long wire and +throws it on the tray for sale. They are eaten warm, the droning cry +continually sounding, "Bunuelos! Calientitos!" There must be millions of +these oily dainties consumed on every night of the Verbena. For the more +genteel revellers, the Don Juans, Pedros, and Pablos of the better sort, +there are improvised restaurants built of pine planks after sunset and +gone before sunrise. But the greater number are bought and eaten by the +loitering crowd from the tray of the fritterman. It is like a vast +gitano-camp. The hurrying crowd which is going nowhere, the blazing +fires, the cries of the venders, the songs of the majos under the great +trees of the Paseo, the purposeless hurly-burly, and above, the steam of +the boiling oil and the dust raised by the myriad feet, form together a +striking and vivid picture. The city is more than usually quiet. The +stir of life is localized in the Prado. The only busy men in town are +those who stand by the seething oil-pots and manufacture the brittle +forage of the browsing herds. It is a jealous business, and requires the +undivided attention of its professors. The _ne sutor ultra crepidam_ of +Spanish proverb is "Bunolero haz tus bunuelos,"--Fritterman, mind thy +fritters. With the long days and cooler airs of the autumn begin the +different fairs. These are relics of the times of tyranny and exclusive +privilege, when for a few days each year, by the intervention of the +Church, or as a reward for civic service, full liberty of barter and +sale was allowed to all citizens. This custom, more or less modified, +may be found in most cities of Europe. The boulevards of Paris swarm +with little booths at Christmas-time, which begin and end their lawless +commercial life within the week. In Vienna, in Leipsic, and other +cities, the same waste-weir of irregular trade is periodically opened. +These fairs begin in Madrid with the autumnal equinox, and continue for +some weeks in October. They disappear from the Alcala to break out with +renewed virulence in the avenue of Atocha, and girdle the city at last +with a belt of booths. While they last they give great animation and +spirit to the street life of the town. You can scarcely make your way +among the heaps of gaudy shawls and handkerchiefs, cheap laces and +illegitimate jewels, that cumber the pavement. When the Jews were driven +out of Spain, they left behind the true genius of bargaining. + +A nut-brown maid is attracted by a brilliant red and yellow scarf. She +asks the sleepy merchant nodding before his wares, "What is this rag +worth?" + +He answers with profound indifference, "Ten reals." + +"Hombre! Are you dreaming or crazy?" She drops the coveted neck-gear, +and moves on, apparently horror-stricken. + +The chapman calls her back peremptorily. "Don't be rash! The scarf is +worth twenty reals, but for the sake of Santisima Maria I offered it to +you for half price. Very well! You are not suited. What will you give?" + +"Caramba! Am I buyer and seller as well? The thing is worth three reals; +more is a robbery." + +"Jesus! Maria! Jose! and all the family! Go thou with God! We cannot +trade. Sooner than sell for less than eight reals I will raise the cover +of my brains! Go thou! It is eight of the morning, and still thou +dreamest." + +She lays down the scarf reluctantly, saying, "Five?" + +But the outraged mercer snorts scornfully, "Eight is my last word! Go +to!" + +She moves away, thinking how well that scarf would look in the Apollo +Gardens, and casts over her shoulder a Parthian glance and bid, "Six!" + +"Take it! It is madness, but I cannot waste my time in bargaining." + +Both congratulate themselves on the operation. He would have taken five, +and she would have given seven. How trade would suffer if we had windows +in our breasts! + +The first days of November are consecrated to all the saints, and to the +souls of all the blessed dead. They are observed in Spain with great +solemnity; but as the cemeteries are generally of the dreariest +character, bare, bleak, and most forbidding under the ashy sky of the +late autumn, the days are deprived of that exquisite sentiment that +pervades them in countries where the graves of the dead are beautiful. +There is nothing more touching than these offerings of memory you see +every year in Mont Parnasse and Pere-la-Chaise. Apart from all beliefs, +there is a mysterious influence for good exerted upon the living by the +memory of the beloved dead. On all hearts not utterly corrupt, the +thoughts that come by the graves of the departed fall like dew from +heaven, and quicken into life purer and higher resolves. + +In Spain, where there is nothing but desolation in graveyards, the +churches are crowded instead, and the bereaved survivors commend to God +their departed friends and their own stricken hearts in the dim and +perfumed aisles of temples made with hands. A taint of gloom thus rests +upon the recollection and the prayer, far different from the consolation +that comes with the free air and the sunshine, and the infinite blue +vault, where Nature conspires with revelation to comfort and cherish and +console. + +Christmas apparently comes in Spain on no other mission than that +referred to in the old English couplet, "bringing good cheer." The +Spaniards are the most frugal of people, but during the days that +precede their Noche Buena, their Good Night, they seem to be given up as +completely to cares of the commissariat as the most eupeptic of Germans. +Swarms of turkeys are driven in from the surrounding country, and taken +about the streets by their rustic herdsmen, making the roads gay with +their scarlet wattles, and waking rural memories by their vociferous +gobbling. The great market-place of the season is the Plaza Mayor. The +ever-fruitful provinces of the South are laid under contribution, and +the result is a wasteful show of tropical luxuriance that seems most +incongruous under the wintry sky. There are mountains of oranges and +dates, brown hillocks of nuts of every kind, store of every product of +this versatile soil. The air is filled with nutty and fruity fragrance. +Under the ancient arcades are the stalls of the butchers, rich with the +mutton of Castile, the hams of Estremadura, and the hero-nourishing +bull-beef of Andalusian pastures. + +At night the town is given up to harmless racket. Nowhere has the +tradition of the Latin Saturnalia been fitted with less change into the +Christian calendar. Men, women, and children of the proletariat--the +unemancipated slaves of necessity--go out this night to cheat their +misery with noisy frolic. The owner of a tambourine is the equal of a +peer; the proprietor of a guitar is the captain of his hundred. They +troop through the dim city with discordant revel and song. They have +little idea of music. Every one sings and sings ill. Every one dances, +without grace or measure. Their music is a modulated howl of the East. +Their dancing is the savage leaping of barbarians. There is no lack of +couplets, religious, political, or amatory. I heard one ragged woman +with a brown baby at her breast go shrieking through the Street of the +Magdalen,-- + + "This is the eve of Christmas, + No sleep from now till morn, + The Virgin is in travail, + At twelve will the child be born!" + +Behind her stumped a crippled beggar, who croaked in a voice rough with +frost and aguardiente his deep disillusion and distrust of the great:-- + + "This is the eve of Christmas, + But what is that to me? + We are ruled by thieves and robbers, + As it was and will always be." + +Next comes a shouting band of the youth of Spain, strapping boys with +bushy locks, crisp and black almost to blueness, and gay young girls +with flexible forms and dark Arab eyes that shine with a phosphorescent +light in the shadows. They troop on with clacking castinets. The +challenge of the mozos rings out on the frosty air,-- + + "This is the eve of Christmas, + Let us drink and love our fill!" + +And the saucy antiphon of girlish voices responds,-- + + "A man may be bearded and gray, + But a woman can fool him still!" + +The Christmas and New-Year's holidays continue for a fortnight, ending +with the Epiphany. On the eve of the Day of the Kings a curious farce is +performed by bands of the lowest orders of the people, which +demonstrates the apparently endless naivete of their class. In every +coterie of water-carriers, or mozos de cordel, there will be one found +innocent enough to believe that the Magi are coming to Madrid that +night, and that a proper respect to their rank requires that they must +be met at the city gate. To perceive the coming of their feet, beautiful +upon the mountains, a ladder is necessary, and the poor victim of the +comedy is loaded with this indispensable "property." He is dragged by +his gay companions, who never tire of the exquisite wit of their jest, +from one gate to another, until suspicion supplants faith in the mind of +the neophyte, and the farce is over. + +In the burgher society of Castile this night is devoted to a very +different ceremony. Each little social circle comes together in a house +agreed upon. They take mottoes of gilded paper and write on each the +name of some one of the company. The names of the ladies are thrown into +one urn, and those of the cavaliers into another, and they are drawn out +by pairs. These couples are thus condemned by fortune to intimacy during +the year. The gentleman is always to be at the orders of the dame and to +serve her faithfully in every knightly fashion. He has all the duties +and none of the privileges of a lover, unless it be the joy of those +"who stand and wait." The relation is very like that which so astonished +M. de Gramont in his visit to Piedmont, where the cavalier of service +never left his mistress in public and never approached her in private. + +The true Carnival survives in its naive purity only in Spain. It has +faded in Rome into a romping day of clown's play. In Paris it is little +more than a busier season for dreary and professional vice. Elsewhere +all over the world the Carnival gayeties are confined to the salon. But +in Madrid the whole city, from grandee to cordwainer, goes with +childlike earnestness into the enjoyment of the hour. The Corso begins +in the Prado on the last Sunday before Lent, and lasts four days. From +noon to night the great drive is filled with a double line of carriages +two miles long, and between them are the landaus of the favored hundreds +who have the privilege of driving up and down free from the law of the +road. This right is acquired by the payment of ten dollars a day to city +charities, and produces some fifteen thousand dollars every Carnival. In +these carriages all the society of Madrid may be seen; and on foot, +darting in and out among the hoofs of the horses, are the young men of +Castile in every conceivable variety of absurd and fantastic disguise. +There are of course pirates and Indians and Turks, monks, prophets, and +kings, but the favorite costumes seem to be the Devil and the +Englishman. Sometimes the Yankee is attempted, with indifferent success. +He wears a ribbon-wreathed Italian bandit's hat, an embroidered jacket, +slashed buckskin trousers, and a wide crimson belt,--a dress you would +at once recognize as universal in Boston. + +Most of the maskers know by name at least the occupants of the +carriages. There is always room for a mask in a coach. They leap in, +swarming over the back or the sides, and in their shrill monotonous +scream they make the most startling revelations of the inmost secrets of +your soul. There is always something impressive in the talk of an +unknown voice, but especially is this so in Madrid, where every one +scorns his own business, and devotes himself rigorously to his +neighbor's. These shrieking young monks and devilkins often surprise a +half-formed thought in the heart of a fair Castilian and drag it out +into day and derision. No one has the right to be offended. Duchesses +are called Tu! Isabel! by chin-dimpled school-boys, and the proudest +beauties in Spain accept bonbons from plebeian hands. It is true, most +of the maskers are of the better class. Some of the costumes are very +rich and expensive, of satin and velvet heavy with gold. I have seen a +distinguished diplomatist in the guise of a gigantic canary-bird, +hopping briskly about in the mud with bedraggled tail-feathers, +shrieking well-bred sarcasms with his yellow beak. + +The charm of the Madrid Carnival is this, that it is respected and +believed in. The best and fairest pass the day in the Corso, and gallant +young gentlemen think it worth while to dress elaborately for a few +hours of harmless and spirituelle intrigue. A society that enjoys a +holiday so thoroughly has something in it better than the blase cynicism +of more civilized capitals. These young fellows talk like the lovers of +the old romances. I have never heard prettier periods of devotion than +from some gentle savage, stretched out on the front seat of a landau +under the peering eyes of his lady, safe in his disguise, if not +self-betrayed, pouring out his young soul in passionate praise and +prayer; around them the laughter and the cries, the cracking of whips, +the roll of wheels, the presence of countless thousands, and yet these +two young hearts alone under the pale winter sky. The rest of the +Continent has outgrown the true Carnival. It is pleasant to see this gay +relic of simpler times, when youth was young. No one here is too "swell" +for it. You may find a duke in the disguise of a chimney-sweep, or a +butcher-boy in the dress of a Crusader. There are none so great that +their dignity would suffer by a day's reckless foolery, and there are +none so poor that they cannot take the price of a dinner to buy a mask +and cheat their misery by mingling for a time with their betters in the +wild license of the Carnival. + +The winter's gayety dies hard. Ash Wednesday is a day of loud merriment +and is devoted to a popular ceremony called the Burial of the Sardine. A +vast throng of workingmen carry with great pomp a link of sausage to the +bank of the Manzanares and inter it there with great solemnity. On the +following Saturday, after three days of death, the Carnival has a +resurrection, and the maddest, wildest ball of the year takes place at +the opera. Then the sackcloth and ashes of Lent come down in good +earnest and the town mourns over its scarlet sins. It used to be very +fashionable for the genteel Christians to repair during this season of +mortification to the Church of San Gines, and scourge themselves lustily +in its subterranean chambers. A still more striking demonstration was +for gentlemen in love to lash themselves on the sidewalks where passed +the ladies of their thoughts. If the blood from the scourges sprinkled +them as they sailed by, it was thought an attention no female heart +could withstand. But these wholesome customs have decayed of late +unbelieving years. + +The Lenten piety increases with the lengthening days. It reaches its +climax on Holy Thursday. On this day all Spain goes to church: it is one +of the obligatory days. The more you go, the better for you; so the good +people spend the whole day from dawn to dusk roaming from one church to +another, and investing an Ave and a Pater-Noster in each. This fills +every street of the city with the pious crowd. No carriages are +permitted. A silence like that of Venice falls on the rattling capital. +With three hundred thousand people in the street, the town seems still. +In 1870, a free-thinking cabman dared to drive up the Calle Alcala. He +was dragged from his box and beaten half to death by the chastened +mourners, who yelled as they kicked and cuffed him, "Que bruto! He will +wake our Jesus." + +On Good Friday the gloom deepens. No colors are worn that day by the +orthodox. The senoras appear on the street in funeral garb. I saw a +group of fast youths come out of the jockey club, black from hat to +boots, with jet studs and sleeve-buttons. The gayest and prettiest +ladies sit within the church doors and beg in the holy name of charity, +and earn large sums for the poor. There are hourly services in the +churches, passionate sermons from all the pulpits. The streets are free +from the painted haunters of the pavement. The whole people taste the +luxury of a sentimental sorrow. + +Yet in these heavy days it is not the Redeemer whose sufferings and +death most nearly touch the hearts of the faithful. It is Santisima +Maria who is worshipped most. It is the Dolorous Mother who moves them +to tears of tenderness. The presiding deity of these final days of +meditation is Our Lady of Solitude. + +But at last the days of mourning are accomplished. The expiation for sin +is finished. The grave is vanquished, death is swallowed up in victory. +Man can turn from the grief that is natural to the joy that is eternal. +From every steeple the bells fling out their happy clangor in glad +tidings of great joy. The streets are flooded once more with eager +multitudes, gay as in wedding garments. Christ has arisen! The heathen +myth of the awakening of nature blends the old tradition with the new +gospel. The vernal breezes sweep the skies clean and blue. Birds are +pairing in the budding trees. The streams leap down from the melting +snow of the hills. The brown turf takes a tint of verdure. Through the +vast frame of things runs a quick shudder of teeming power. In the heart +of man love and will mingle into hope. Hail to the new life and the +ever-new religion! Hail to the resurrection morning! + + + + +AN HOUR WITH THE PAINTERS + + +As a general thing it is well to distrust a Spaniard's superlatives. He +will tell you that his people are the most amiable in the world, but you +will do well to carry your revolver into the interior. He will say there +are no wines worth drinking but the Spanish, but you will scarcely +forswear Clicquot and Yquem on the mere faith of his assertion. A +distinguished general once gravely assured me that there was no +literature in the world at all to be compared with the productions of +the Castilian mind. All others, he said, were but pale imitations of +Spanish master-work. + +Now, though you may be shocked at learning such unfavorable facts of +'Shakespeare and Goethe and Hugo, you will hardly condemn them to an +Auto da fe, on the testimony even of a grandee of Spain. + +But when a Spaniard assures you that the picture-gallery of Madrid is +the finest in the world, you may believe him without reserve. He +probably does not know what he is talking about. He may never have +crossed the Pyrenees. He has no dream of the glories of Dresden, or +Florence, or the Louvre. It is even possible that he has not seen the +matchless collection he is boasting of. He crowns it with a sweeping +superlative simply because it is Spanish. But the statement is +nevertheless true. + +The reason of this is found in that gigantic and overshadowing fact +which seems to be an explanation of everything in Spain,--the power and +the tyranny of the House of Austria. The period of the vast increase of +Spanish dominion coincided with that of the meridian glory of Italian +art. The conquest of Granada was finished as the divine child Raphael +began to meddle with his father's brushes and pallets, and before his +short life ended Charles, Burgess of Ghent, was emperor and king. + +The dominions he governed and transmitted to his son embraced Spain, the +Netherlands, Franche-Comte, the Milanese, Naples, and Sicily; that is to +say, those regions where art in that age and the next attained its +supreme development. He was also lord of the New World, whose +inexhaustible mines poured into the lap of Europe a constant stream of +gold. Hence came the riches and the leisure necessary to art. + +Charles V., as well as his great contemporary and rival, Francis I., was +a munificent protector of art. He brought from Italy and Antwerp some of +the most perfect products of their immortal masters. He was the friend +and patron of Titian, and when, weary of the world and its vanities, he +retired to the lonely monastery of Yuste to spend in devout +contemplation the evening of his days, the most precious solace of his +solitude was that noble canvas of the great Venetian, where Charles and +Philip are borne, in penitential guise and garb, on luminous clouds into +the visible glory of the Most High. + +These two great kings made a good use of their unbounded opportunities. +Spain became illuminated with the glowing canvases of the incomparable +Italians. The opening up of the New World beyond seas, the meteoric +career of European and African conquest in which the emperor had won so +much land and glory, had given an awakening shock to the intelligent +youth of Spain, and sent them forth in every avenue of enterprise. This +jealously patriotic race, which had remained locked up by the mountains +and the seas for centuries, started suddenly out, seeking adventures +over the earth. The mind of Spain seemed suddenly to have brightened and +developed like that of her great king, who, in his first tourney at +Valladolid, wrote with proud sluggishness _Nondum_--not yet--on his +maiden shield, and a few years later in his young maturity adopted the +legend of arrogant hope and promise,--_Plus Ultra._ There were seen two +emigrations of the young men of Spain, eastward and westward. The latter +went for gold and material conquest into the American wilds; and the +former, led by the sacred love of art, to that land of beauty and +wonder, then, now, and always the spiritual shrine of all +peoples,--Italy. + +A brilliant young army went out from Spain on this new crusade of the +beautiful. From the plains of Castile and the hills of Navarre went, +among others, Berruguete, Becerra, and the marvellous deaf-mute +Navarrete. The luxurious city of Valentia sent Juan de Juanes and +Ribalta. Luis de Vargas went out from Seville, and from Cordova the +scholar, artist, and thinker, Paul of Cespedes. The schools of Rome and +Venice and Florence were thronged with eager pilgrims, speaking an alien +Latin and filled with a childlike wonder and appreciation. + +In that stirring age the emigration was not all in one direction. Many +distinguished foreigners came down to Spain, to profit by the new love +of art in the Peninsula. It was Philip of Burgundy who carved, with +Berruguete, those miracles of skill and patience we admire to-day in the +choir of Toledo. Peter of Champagne painted at Seville the grand +altar-piece that so comforted the eyes and the soul of Murillo. The wild +Greek bedouin, George Theotocopouli, built the Mozarabic chapel and +filled the walls of convents with his weird ghost-faces. Moor, or Moro, +came from the Low Countries, and the Carducci brothers from Italy, to +seek their fortunes in Madrid. Torrigiani, after breaking Michael +Angelo's nose in Florence, fled to Granada, and died in a prison of the +Inquisition for smashing the face of a Virgin which a grandee of Spain +wanted to steal from him. + +These immigrations, and the refluent tide of Spanish students from +Italy, founded the various schools of Valentia, Toledo, Seville, and +Madrid. Madrid soon absorbed the school of Toledo, and the attraction of +Seville was too powerful for Valentia. The Andalusian school counts +among its early illustrations Vargas, Roelas, the Castillos, Herrera, +Pacheco, and Moya, and among its later glories Velazquez, Alonzo Cano, +Zurbaran, and Murillo, last and greatest of the mighty line. The school +of Madrid begins with Berruguete and Na-varrete, the Italians Caxes, +Rizi, and others, who are followed by Sanchez Coello, Pantoja, +Collantes. Then comes the great invader Velazquez, followed by his +retainers Pareja and Carreno, and absorbs the whole life of the school. +Claudio Coello makes a good fight against the rapid decadence. Luca +Giordano comes rattling in from Naples with his whitewash-brush, +painting a mile a minute, and classic art is ended in Spain with the +brief and conscientious work of Raphael Mengs. + +There is therefore little distinction of schools in Spain. Murillo, the +glory of Seville, studied in Madrid, and the mighty Andalusian, +Velazquez, performed his enormous life's work in the capital of Castile. + +It now needs but one word to show how the Museum of Madrid became so +rich in masterpieces. During the long and brilliant reigns of Charles V. +and Philip II., when art had arrived at its apogee in Italy, and was +just beginning its splendid career in Spain, these powerful monarchs had +the lion's share of all the best work that was done in the world. There +was no artist so great but he was honored by the commands of these lords +of the two worlds. They thus formed in their various palaces, +pleasure-houses, and cloisters a priceless collection of pictures +produced in the dawn of the Spanish and the triumphant hey-day of +Italian genius. Their frivolous successors lost provinces and kingdoms, +honor and prestige, but they never lost their royal prerogative nor +their taste for the arts. They consoled themselves for the slings and +arrows of outrageous fortune by the delights of sensual life, and +imagined they preserved some distant likeness to their great forerunners +by encouraging and protecting Velazquez and Lope de Vega and other +intellectual giants of that decaying age. So while, as the result of a +vicious system of kingly and spiritual thraldom, the intellect of Spain +was forced away from its legitimate channels of thought and action, +under the shadow of the royal prerogative, which survived the genuine +power of the older kings, art flourished and bloomed, unsuspected and +unpersecuted by the coward jealousy of courtier and monk. + +The palace and the convent divided the product of those marvellous days. +Amid all the poverty of the failing state, it was still the king and +clergy who were best able to appropriate the works of genius. This may +have contributed to the decay of art. The immortal canvases passed into +oblivion in the salons of palaces and the cells of monasteries. Had they +been scattered over the land and seen by the people, they might have +kept alive the spark that kindled their creators. But exclusiveness is +inevitably followed by barrenness. When the great race of Spanish +artists ended, these matchless works were kept in the safe obscurity of +palaces and religious establishments. History was working in the +interests of this Museum. The pictures were held by the clenched dead +hand of the Church and the throne. They could not be sold or +distributed. They made the dark places luminous, patiently biding their +time. + +It was long enough coming, and it was a despicable hand that brought +them into the light. Ferdinand VII. thought his palace would look +fresher if the walls were covered with French paper, and so packed all +the pictures off to the empty building on the Prado, which his +grandfather had built for a museum. As soon as the glorious collection +was exposed to the gaze of the world, its incontestable merit was at +once recognized. Especially were the works of Velazquez, hitherto almost +an unknown name in Europe, admired and appreciated. Ferdinand, finding +he had done a clever thing unawares, began to put on airs and poser for +a patron of art. The gallery was still further immensely enriched on the +exclaustration of the monasteries, by the hidden treasures of the +Escorial, and other spoils of mortmain. And now, as a collection of +masterpieces, it has no equal in the world. + +A few figures will prove this. It contains more than two thousand +pictures already catalogued,--all of them worth a place on the walls. +Among these there are ten by Raphael, forty-three by Titian, thirty-four +by Tintoret, twenty-five by Paul Veronese. Rubens has the enormous +contingent of sixty-four. Of Teniers, whose works are sold for fabulous +sums for the square inch, this extraordinary museum possesses no less +than sixty finished pictures,--the Louvre considers itself rich with +fourteen. So much for a few of the foreigners. Among the Spaniards the +three greatest names could alone fill a gallery. There are sixty-five +Velazquez, forty-six Murillos, and fifty-eight Riberas. Compare these +figures with those of any other gallery in existence, and you will at +once recognize the hopeless superiority of this collection. It is not +only the greatest collection in the world, but the greatest that can +ever be made until this is broken up. + +But with all this mass of wealth it is not a complete, nor, properly +speaking, a representative museum. You cannot trace upon its walls the +slow, groping progress of art towards perfection. It contains few of +what the book-lovers call _incunabula._ Spanish art sprang out +full-armed from the mature brain of Rome. Juan de Juanes came back from +Italy a great artist. The schools of Spain were budded on a full-bearing +tree. Charles and Philip bought masterpieces, and cared little for the +crude efforts of the awkward pencils of the necessary men who came +before Raphael. There is not a Perugino in Madrid. There is nothing +Byzantine, no trace of Renaissance; nothing of the patient work of the +early Flemings,--the art of Flanders comes blazing in with the full +splendor of Rubens and Van Dyck. And even among the masters, the +representation is most unequal. Among the wilderness of Titians and +Tintorets you find but two Domenichinos and two Correggios. Even in +Spanish art the gallery is far from complete. There is almost nothing +of such genuine painters as Zurbaran and Herrera. + +But recognizing all this, there is, in this glorious temple, enough to +fill the least enthusiastic lover of art with delight and adoration for +weeks and months together. If one knew he was to be blind in a year, +like the young musician in Auerbach's exquisite romance, I know of no +place in the world where he could garner up so precious a store of +memories for the days of darkness, memories that would haunt the soul +with so divine a light of consolation, as in that graceful Palace of the +Prado. + +It would be a hopeless task to attempt to review with any detail the +gems of this collection. My memory is filled with the countless canvases +that adorn the ten great halls. If I refer to my notebook I am equally +discouraged by the number I have marked for special notice. The +masterpieces are simply innumerable. I will say a word of each room, and +so give up the unequal contest. + +As you enter the Museum from the north, you are in a wide +sturdy-columned vestibule, hung with splashy pictures of Luca Giordano. +To your right is the room devoted to the Spanish school; to the left, +the Italian. In front is the grand gallery where the greatest works of +both schools are collected. In the Spanish saloon there is an +indefinable air of severity and gloom. It is less perfectly lighted than +some others, and there is something forbidding in the general tone of +the room. There are prim portraits of queens and princes, monks in +contemplation, and holy people in antres vast and deserts idle. Most +visitors come in from a sense of duty, look hurriedly about, and go out +with a conscience at ease; in fact, there is a dim suggestion of the +fagot and the rack about many of the Spanish masters. At one end of this +gallery the Prometheus of Ribera agonizes chained to his rock. His +gigantic limbs are flung about in the fury of immortal pain. A vulture, +almost lost in the blackness of the shadows, is tugging at his vitals. +His brow is convulsed with the pride and anguish of a demigod. It is a +picture of horrible power. Opposite hangs one of the few Zurbarans of +the gallery,--also a gloomy and terrible work. A monk kneels in shadows +which, by the masterly chiaroscuro of this ascetic artist, are made to +look darker than blackness. Before him in a luminous nimbus that burns +its way through the dark, is the image of the crucified Saviour, head +downwards. So remarkable is the vigor of the drawing and the power of +light in this picture that you can imagine you see the resplendent +crucifix suddenly thrust into the shadow by the strong hands of +invisible spirits, and swayed for a moment only before the dazzled eyes +of the ecstatic solitary. + +But after you have made friends with this room it will put off its +forbidding aspect, and you will find it hath a stern look but a gentle +heart. It has two lovely little landscapes by Murillo, showing how +universal was that wholesome genius. Also one of the largest landscapes +of Velazquez, which, when you stand near it, seems a confused mass of +brown daubs, but stepping back a few yards becomes a most perfect view +of the entrance to a royal park. The wide gate swings on its pivot +before your eyes. A court cortege moves in,--the long, dark alley +stretches off for miles directly in front, without any trick of lines or +curves; the artist has painted the shaded air. To the left a patch of +still water reflects the dark wood, and above there is a distant and +tranquil sky. Had Velazquez not done such vastly greater things, his few +landscapes would alone have won him fame enough. He has in this room a +large number of royal portraits,--one especially worth attention, of +Philip III. The scene is by the shore,--a cool foreground of sandy +beach,--a blue-gray stretch of rippled water, and beyond, a low +promontory between the curling waves and the cirrus clouds. The king +mounts a magnificent gray horse, with a mane and tail like the broken +rush of a cascade. The keeping is wonderful; a fresh sea breeze blows +out of the canvas. A brilliant bit of color is thrown into the red, +gold-fringed scarf of the horseman, fluttering backward over his +shoulder. Yet the face of the king is, as it should be, the principal +point of the picture,--the small-eyed, heavy-mouthed, red-lipped, fair, +self-satisfied face of these Austrian despots. It is a handsomer face +than most of Velazquez, as it was probably painted from memory and +lenient tradition. For Philip III. was gathered to his fathers in the +Escorial before Velazquez came up from Andalusia to seek his fortune at +the court. The first work he did in Madrid was to paint the portrait of +the king, which so pleased his majesty that he had it repeated _ad +nauseam._ You see him served up in every form in this gallery,--on foot, +on horseback, in full armor, in a shooting-jacket, at picnics, and +actually on his knees at his prayers! We wonder if Velazquez ever grew +tired of that vacant face with its contented smirk, or if in that loyal +age the smile of royalty was not always the sunshine of the court? + +There is a most instructive study of faces in the portraits of the +Austrian line. First comes Charles V., the First of Spain, painted by +Titian at Augsburg, on horseback, in the armor he wore at Muhl-berg, his +long lance in rest, his visor up over the eager, powerful face,--the eye +and beak of an eagle, the jaw of a bull-dog, the face of a born ruler, a +man of prey. And yet in the converging lines about the eyes, in the +premature gray hair, in the nervous, irritable lips, you can see the +promise of early decay, of an age that will be the spoil of superstition +and bigotry. It is the face of a man who could make himself emperor and +hermit. In his son, Philip II., the soldier dies out and the bigot is +intensified. In the fine portrait by Pantoja, of Philip in his age, +there is scarcely any trace of the fresh, fair youth that Titian painted +as Adonis. It is the face of a living corpse; of a ghastly pallor, +heightened by the dull black of his mourning suit, where all passion and +feeling have died out of the livid lips and the icy eyes. Beside him +hangs the portrait of his rickety, feebly passionate son, the +unfortunate Don Carlos. The forehead of the young prince is narrow and +ill-formed; the Austrian chin is exaggerated one degree more; he looks a +picture of fitful impulse. His brother, Philip III., we have just seen, +fair and inane,--a monster of cruelty, who burned Jews and banished +Moors, not from malice, but purely from vacuity of spirit; his head +broadens like a pine-apple from the blond crest to the plump jowls. +Every one knows the head of Philip IV.,--he was fortunate in being the +friend of Velazquez,--the high, narrow brow, the long, weak face, the +yellow, curled mustache, the thick, red lips, and the ever lengthening +Hapsburg chin. But the line of Austria ends with the utmost limit of +caricature in the face of Charles the Bewitched! Carreno has given us an +admirable portrait of this unfortunate,--the forehead caved in like the +hat of a drunkard, the red-lidded eyes staring vacantly, a long, thin +nose absurd as a Carnival disguise, an enormous mouth which he could not +shut, the under-jaw projected so prodigiously,--a face incapable of any +emotion but fear. And yet in gazing at this idiotic mask you are +reminded of another face you have somewhere seen, and are startled to +remember it is the resolute face of the warrior and statesman, the king +of men, the Kaiser Karl. Yes, this pitiable being was the descendant of +the great emperor, and for that sufficient reason, although he was an +impotent and shivering idiot, although he could not sleep without a +friar in his bed to keep the devils away, for thirty-five years this +scarecrow ruled over Spain, and dying made a will whose accomplishment +bathed the Peninsula in blood. It must be confessed this institution of +monarchy is a luxury that must be paid for. + +We did not intend to talk of politics in this room, but that line of +royal effigies was too tempting. Before we go, let us look at a +beautiful Magdalen in penitence, by an unknown artist of the school of +Murillo. She stands near the entrance of her cave, in a listening +attitude. The bright out-of-door light falls on her bare shoulder and +gives the faintest touch of gold to her dishevelled brown hair. She +casts her eyes upward, the large melting eyes of Andalusia; a chastened +sorrow, through which a trembling hope is shining, softens the somewhat +worldly beauty of her exquisite and sensitive face. Through the mouth of +the cave we catch a glimpse of sunny mountain solitude, and in the rosy +air that always travels with Spanish angels a band of celestial +serenaders is playing. It is a charming composition, without any depth +of sentiment or especial mastery of treatment, but evidently painted by +a clever artist in his youth, and this Magdalen is the portrait of the +lady of his dreams. None of Murillo's pupils but Tobar could have +painted it, and the manner is precisely the same as that of his Divina +Pastora. + +Across the hall is the gallery consecrated to Italian artists. There are +not many pictures of the first rank here. They have been reserved for +the great central gallery, where we are going. But while here, we must +notice especially two glorious works of Tintoret,--the same subject +differently treated,--the Death of Holofernes. Both are placed higher +than they should be, considering their incontestable merit. A full light +is needed to do justice to that magnificence of color which is the pride +of Venice. There are two remarkable pictures of Giordano,--one in the +Roman style, which would not be unworthy of the great Sanzio himself, a +Holy Family, drawn and colored with that scrupulous correctness which +seems so impossible in the ordinary products of this Protean genius; and +just opposite, an apotheosis of Rubens, surrounded by his usual +"properties" of fat angels and genii, which could be readily sold +anywhere as a specimen of the estimate which the unabashed Fleming +placed upon himself. It is marvellous that any man should so master the +habit and the thought of two artists so widely apart as Raphael and +Rubens, as to produce just such pictures as they would have painted upon +the same themes. The halls and dark corridors of the Museum are filled +with Giordano's canvases. In less than ten years' residence in Spain he +covered the walls of dozens of churches and palaces with his fatally +facile work. There are more than three hundred pictures recorded as +executed by him in that time. They are far from being without merit. +There is a singular slap-dash vigor about his drawing. His coloring, +except when he is imitating some earlier master, is usually thin and +poor. It is difficult to repress an emotion of regret in looking at his +laborious yet useless life. With great talents, with indefatigable +industry, he deluged Europe with paintings that no one cares for, and +passed into history simply as Luca Fa Presto,--Luke Work-Fast. + +It is not by mere activity that great things are done in art. In the +great gallery we now enter we see the deathless work of the men who +wrought in faith. This is the grandest room in Christendom. It is about +three hundred and fifty feet long and thirty-five broad and high. It is +beautifully lighted from above. Its great length is broken here and +there by vases and statues, so placed between doors as nowhere to +embarrass the view. The northern half of the gallery is Spanish, and the +southern half Italian. Halfway down, a door to the left opens into an +oval chamber, devoted to an eclectic set of masterpieces of every school +and age. The gallery ends in a circular room of French and German +pictures, on either side of which there are two great halls of Dutch and +Flemish. On the ground floor there are some hundreds more Flemish and a +hall of sculpture. + +The first pictures you see to your left are by the early masters of +Spain,--Morales, called in Spain the Divine, whose works are now +extremely rare, the Museum possessing only three or four, long, +fleshless faces and stiff figures of Christs and Marys,--and Juan de +Juanes, the founder of the Valentian school, who brought back from Italy +the lessons of Raphael's studio, that firmness of design and brilliancy +of color, and whose genuine merit has survived all vicissitudes of +changing taste. He has here a superb Last Supper and a spirited series +of pictures illustrating the martyrdom of Stephen. There is perhaps a +little too much elaboration of detail, even for the Romans. Stephen's +robes are unnecessarily new, and the ground where he is stoned is +profusely covered with convenient round missiles the size of Vienna +rolls, so exactly suited to the purpose that it looks as if Providence +sided with the persecutors. But what a wonderful variety and truth in +the faces and the attitudes of the groups! What mastery of drawing, and +what honest integrity of color after all these ages! It is reported of +Juanes that he always confessed and prayed before venturing to take up +his pencils to touch the features of the saints and Saviours that shine +on his canvas. His conscientious fervor has its reward. + +Across the room are the Murillos. Hung together are two pictures, not of +large dimensions, but of exquisite perfection, which will serve as fair +illustrations of the work of his youth and his age; the frio and the +vaporoso manner. In the former manner is this charming picture of +Rebecca at the Well; a graceful composition, correct and somewhat severe +drawing, the greatest sharpness and clearness of outline. In the +Martyrdom of St. Andrew the drawing and the composition are no less +absolutely perfect, but there hangs over the whole picture a luminous +haze of strangeness and mystery. A light that never was on sea or land +bathes the distant hills and battlements, touches the spears of the +legionaries, and shines in full glory on the ecstatic face of the aged +saint. It does not seem a part of the scene. You see the picture through +it. A step further on there is a Holy Family, which seems to me the +ultimate effort of the early manner. A Jewish carpenter holds his +fair-haired child between his knees. The urchin holds up a bird to +attract the attention of a little white dog on the floor. The mother, a +dark-haired peasant woman, looks on the scene with quiet amusement. The +picture is absolutely perfect in detail. It seems to be the _consigne_ +among critics to say it lacks "style." They say it is a family scene in +Judaea, _voila tout._ Of course, and it is that very truth and nature +that makes this picture so fascinating. The Word was made flesh, and not +a phosphorescent apparition; and Murillo knew what he was about when he +painted this view of the interior of St. Joseph's shop. What absurd +presumption to accuse this great thinker of a deficiency of ideality, in +face of these two glorious Marys of the Conception that fill the room +with light and majesty! They hang side by side, so alike and yet so +distinct in character. One is a woman in knowledge and a goddess of +purity; the other, absolute innocence, startled by the stupendous +revelation and exalted by the vaguely comprehended glory of the future. +It is before this picture that the visitor always lingers longest. The +face is the purest expression of girlish loveliness possible to art. The +Virgin floats upborne by rosy clouds, flocks of pink cherubs flutter at +her feet waving palm-branches. The golden air is thick with suggestions +of dim celestial faces, but nothing mars the imposing solitude of the +Queen of Heaven, shrined alone, throned in the luminous azure. Surely no +man ever understood or interpreted like this grand Andalusian the power +that the worship of woman exerts on the religions of the world. All the +passionate love that has been poured out in all the ages at the feet of +Ashtaroth and Artemis and Aphrodite and Freya found visible form and +color at last on that immortal canvas where, with his fervor of religion +and the full strength of his virile devotion to beauty, he created, for +the adoration of those who should follow him, this type of the perfect +Feminine,-- + +"Thee! standing loveliest in the open heaven! Ave Maria! only Heaven and +Thee!" + +There are some dozens more of Murillo here almost equally remarkable, +but I cannot stop to make an unmeaning catalogue of them. There is a +charming Gypsy Fortune-teller, whose wheedling voice and smile were +caught and fixed in some happy moment in Seville; an Adoration of the +Shepherds, wonderful in its happy combination of rigid truth with the +warmest glow of poetry; two Annunciations, rich with the radiance that +streams through the rent veil of the innermost heaven,--lights painted +boldly upon lights, the White Dove sailing out of the dazzling +background of celestial effulgence,--a miracle and mystery of theology +repeated by a miracle and mystery of art. + +Even when you have exhausted the Murillos of the Museum you have not +reached his highest achievements in color and design. You will find +these in the Academy of San Fernando,--the Dream of the Roman Gentleman, +and the Founding of the Church of St. Mary the Greater; and the powerful +composition of St. Elizabeth of Hungary, in her hospital work. In the +first, a noble Roman and his wife have suddenly fallen asleep in their +chairs in an elegant apartment. Their slumber is painted with curious +felicity,--you lower your voice for fear of waking them. On the left of +the picture is their dream: the Virgin comes in a halo of golden clouds +and designates the spot where her church is to be built. In the next +picture the happy couple kneel before the pope and expose their high +commission, and outside a brilliant procession moves to the ceremony of +the laying of the corner-stone. The St. Elizabeth is a triumph of genius +over a most terribly repulsive subject. The wounds and sores of the +beggars are painted with unshrinking fidelity, but every vulgar detail +is redeemed by the beauty and majesty of the whole. I think in these +pictures of Murillo the last word of Spanish art was reached. There was +no further progress possible in life, even for him. "Other heights in +other lives, God willing." + +Returning to the Museum and to Velazquez, we find ourselves in front of +his greatest historical work, the Surrender of Breda. This is probably +the most utterly unaffected historical painting in existence. There is +positively no stage business about it. On the right is the Spanish +staff, on the left the deputation of the vanquished Flemings. In the +centre the great Spinola accepts the keys of the city from the governor; +his attitude and face are full of dignity softened by generous and +affable grace. He lays his hand upon the shoulder of the Flemish +general, and you can see he is paying him some chivalrous compliment on +the gallant fight he has lost. If your eyes wander through the open +space between the two escorts, you see a wonderful widespread landscape +in the Netherlands, which would form a fine picture if the figures all +were gone. Opposite this great work is another which artists consider +greater,--Las Meninas. When Luca Giordano came from Italy he inquired +for this picture, and said on seeing it, "This is the theology of +painting." If our theology were what it should be, and cannot be, +absolute and unquestionable truth, Luca the Quick-worker would have been +right. Velazquez was painting the portrait of a stupid little infanta +when the idea came to him of perpetuating the scene just as it was. We +know how we have wished to be sure of the exact accessories of past +events. The modern rage for theatrical local color is an illustration of +this desire. The great artist, who must have honored his art, determined +to give to future ages an exact picture of one instant of his glorious +life. It is not too much to say he has done this. He stands before his +easel, his pencils in his hand. The little princess is stiffly posing in +the centre. Her little maids are grouped about her. Two hideous dwarfs +on the right are teasing a noble dog who is too drowsy and magnanimous +to growl. In the background at the end of a long gallery a gentleman is +opening a door to the garden. The presence of royalty is indicated by +the reflection of the faces of the king and queen in a small mirror, +where you would expect to see your own. The longer you look upon this +marvellous painting, the less possible does it seem that it is merely +the placing of color on canvas which causes this perfect illusion. It +does not seem possible that you are looking at a plane surface. There is +a stratum of air before, behind, and beside these figures. You could +walk on that floor and see how the artist is getting on with the +portrait. There is space and light in this picture, as in any room. +Every object is detached, as in the common miracle of the stereoscope. +If art consist in making a fleeting moment immortal, if the True is a +higher ideal than the Beautiful, then it will be hard to find a greater +painting than this. It is utterly without beauty; its tone is a cold +olive green-gray; there is not one redeeming grace or charm about it +except the noble figure of Velazquez himself,--yet in its austere +fidelity to truth it stands incomparable in the world. It gained +Velazquez his greatest triumph. You see on his breast a sprawling red +cross, painted evidently by an unskilful hand. This was the gracious +answer made by Philip IV. when the artist asked him if anything was +wanting to the picture. This decoration, daubed by the royal hand, was +the accolade of the knighthood of Santiago,--an honor beyond the dreams +of an artist of that day. It may be considered the highest compliment +ever paid to a painter, except the one paid by Courbet to himself, when +he refused to be decorated by the Man of December. + +Among Velazquez's most admirable studies of life is his picture of the +Borrachos. A group of rustic roysterers are admitting a neophyte into +the drunken _confrerie._ He kneels to receive a crown of ivy from the +hands of the king of the revel. A group of older tipplers are filling +their cups, or eyeing their brimming glasses, with tipsy, mock-serious +glances. There has never been a chapter written which so clearly shows +the drunkard's nature as this vulgar anacreontic. A thousand men have +painted drunken frolics, but never one with such distinct spiritual +insight as this. To me the finest product of Jordaens' genius is his +Bohnen Koenig in the Belvedere, but there you see only the incidents of +the mad revel; every one is shouting or singing or weeping with maudlin +glee or tears. But in this scene of the Borrachos there is nothing +scenic or forced. These topers have come together to drink, for the love +of the wine,--the fun is secondary. This wonderful reserve of Velazquez +is clearly seen in his conception of the king of the rouse. He is a +young man, with a heavy, dull, somewhat serious face, fat rather than +bloated, rather pale than flushed. He is naked to the waist to show the +plump white arms and shoulders and the satiny skin of the voluptuary; +one of those men whose heads and whose stomachs are too loyal ever to +give them _Katzenjammer_ or remorse. The others are of the commoner type +of haunters of wine-shops,--with red eyes and coarse hides and grizzled +matted hair,--but every man of them inexorably true, and a predestined +sot. + +We must break away from Velazquez, passing by his marvellous portraits +of kings and dwarfs, saints and poodles,--among whom there is a dwarf of +two centuries ago, who is too like Tom Thumb to serve for his twin +brother,--and a portrait of Aesop, which is a flash of intuition, an +epitome of all the fables. Before leaving the Spaniards we must look at +the most pleasing of all Ribera's works,--the Ladder-Dream of Jacob. +The patriarch lies stretched on the open plain in the deep sleep of the +weary. To the right in a broad shaft of cloudy gold the angels are +ascending and descending. The picture is remarkable for its mingling the +merits of Ribera's first and second manner. It is a Caravaggio in its +strength and breadth of light and shade, and a Correggio in its delicacy +of sentiment and refined beauty of coloring. He was not often so +fortunate in his Parmese efforts. They are usually marked by a timidity +and an attempt at prettiness inconceivable in the haughty and impulsive +master of the Neapolitan school. + +Of the three great Spaniards, Ribera is the least sympathetic. He often +displays a tumultuous power and energy to which his calmer rivals are +strangers. But you miss in him that steady devotion to truth which +distinguishes Velazquez, and that spiritual lift which ennobles Murillo. +The difference, I conceive, lies in the moral character of the three. +Ribera was a great artist, and the others were noble men. Ribera passed +a youth of struggle and hunger and toil among the artists of Rome,--a +stranger and penniless in the magnificent city,--picking up crusts in +the street and sketching on quiet curbstones, with no friend, and no +name but that of Spagnoletto,--the little Spaniard. Suddenly rising to +fame, he broke loose from his Roman associations and fled to Naples, +where he soon became the wealthiest and the most arrogant artist of his +time. He held continually at his orders a faction of _bravi_ who drove +from Naples, with threats and insults and violence, every artist of +eminence who dared visit the city. Car-racci and Guido only saved their +lives by flight, and the blameless and gifted Domenichino, it is said, +was foully murdered by his order. It is not to such a heart as this that +is given the ineffable raptures of Murillo or the positive revelations +of Velazquez. These great souls were above cruelty or jealousy. +Velazquez never knew the storms of adversity. Safely anchored in the +royal favor, he passed his uneventful life in the calm of his beloved +work. But his hand and home were always open to the struggling artists +of Spain. He was the benefactor of Alonzo Cano; and when Murillo came up +to Madrid, weary and footsore with his long tramp from Andalusia, +sustained by an innate consciousness of power, all on fire with a +picture of Van Dyck he had seen in Seville, the rich and honored painter +of the court received with generous kindness the shabby young wanderer, +clothed him, and taught him, and watched with noble delight the first +flights of the young eagle whose strong wing was so soon to cleave the +empyrean. And when Murillo went back to Seville he paid his debt by +doing as much for others. These magnanimous hearts were fit company for +the saints they drew. + +We have lingered so long with the native artists we shall have little to +say of the rest. There are ten fine Raphaels, but it is needless to +speak of them. They have been endlessly reproduced. Raphael is known and +judged by the world. After some centuries of discussion the scorners and +the critics are dumb. All men have learned the habit of Albani, who, in +a frivolous and unappreciative age, always uncovered his head at the +name of Raphael Sanzio. We look at his precious work with a mingled +feeling of gratitude for what we have, and of rebellious wonder that +lives like his and Shelley's should be extinguished in their glorious +dawn, while kings and country gentlemen live a hundred years. What +boundless possibilities of bright achievement these two divine youths +owed us in the forty years more they should have lived! Raphael's +greatest pictures in Madrid are the Spasimo di Sicilia, and the Holy +Family, called La Perla. The former has a singular history. It was +painted for a convent in Palermo, shipwrecked on the way, and thrown +ashore on the gulf of Genoa. It was again sent to Sicily, brought to +Spain by the Viceroy of Naples, stolen by Napoleon, and in Paris was +subjected to a brilliantly successful operation for transferring the +layer of paint from the worm-eaten wood to canvas. It came back to Spain +with other stolen goods from the Louvre. La Perla was bought by Philip +IV. at the sale of Charles I.'s effects after his decapitation. Philip +was fond of Charles, but could not resist the temptation to profit by +his death. This picture was the richest of the booty. It is, of all the +faces of the Virgin extant, the most perfectly beautiful and one of the +least spiritual. + +There is another fine Madonna, commonly called La Virgen del Pez, from a +fish which young Tobit holds in his hand. It is rather tawny in color, +as if it had been painted on a pine board and the wood had asserted +itself from below. It is a charming picture, with all the great Roman's +inevitable perfection of design; but it is incomprehensible that +critics, M. Viardot among them, should call it the first in rank of +Raphael's Virgins in Glory. There are none which can dispute that title +with Our Lady of San Sisto, unearthly and supernatural in beauty and +majesty. + +The school of Florence is represented by a charming Mona Lisa of +Leonardo da Vinci, almost identical with that of the Louvre; and six +admirable pictures of Andrea del Sarto. But the one which most attracts +and holds all those who regard the Faultless Painter with sympathy, and +who admiring his genius regret his errors, is a portrait of his wife +Lucrezia Fede, whose name, a French writer has said, is a double +epigram. It was this capricious and wilful beauty who made poor Andrea +break his word and embezzle the money King Francis had given him to +spend for works of art. Yet this dangerous face is his best excuse,--the +face of a man-snarer, subtle and passionate and cruel in its blind +selfishness, and yet so beautiful that any man might yield to it against +the cry of his own warning conscience. Browning must have seen it before +he wrote, in his pathetic poem,-- + + "Let my hands frame your face in your hair's gold, + You beautiful Lucrezia, that are mine!" + +Nowhere, away from the Adriatic, is the Venetian school so richly +represented as in Madrid. Charles and Philip were the most munificent +friends and patrons of Titian, and the Royal Museum counts among its +treasures in consequence the enormous number of forty-three pictures by +the wonderful centenarian. Among these are two upon which he set great +value,--a Last Supper, which has unfortunately mouldered to ruin in the +humid refectory of the Escorial, equal in merit and destiny with that of +Leonardo; and the Gloria, or apotheosis of the imperial family, which, +after the death of Charles, was brought from Yuste to the Escorial, and +thence came to swell the treasures of the Museum. It is a grand and +masterly work. The vigorous genius of Titian has grappled with the +essential difficulties of a subject that trembles on the balance of +ridiculous and sublime, and has come out triumphant. The Father and the +Son sit on high. The Operating Spirit hovers above them. The Virgin in +robes of azure stands in the blaze of the Presence. The celestial army +is ranged around. Below, a little lower than the angels, are Charles and +Philip with their wives, on their knees, with white cowls and clasped +hands,--Charles in his premature age, with worn face and grizzled beard; +and Philip in his youth of unwholesome fairness, with red lips and pink +eyelids, such as Titian painted him in the Adonis. The foreground is +filled with prophets and saints of the first dignity, and a kneeling +woman, whose face is not visible, but whose attitude and drapery are +drawn with the sinuous and undulating grace of that hand which could not +fail. Every figure is turned to the enthroned Deity, touched with +ineffable light. The artist has painted heaven, and is not absurd. In +that age of substantial faith such achievements were possible. + +There are two Venuses by Titian very like that of Dresden, but the heads +have not the same dignity; and a Danae which is a replica of the Vienna +one. His Salome bearing the Head of John the Baptist is one of the +finest impersonations of the pride of life conceivable. So +unapproachable are the soft lights and tones on the perfect arms and +shoulders of the full-bodied maiden, that Tintoret one day exclaimed in +despair before it, "That fellow paints with ground flesh." + +This gallery possesses one of the last works of Titian,--the Battle of +Lepanto, which was fought when the artist was ninety-four years of age. +It is a courtly allegory,--King Philip holds his little son in his arms, +a courier angel brings the news of victory, and to the infant a +palm-branch and the scroll _Majora tibi._ Outside you see the smoke and +flash of a naval battle, and a malignant and tur-baned Turk lies bound +on the floor. It would seem incredible that this enormous canvas should +have been executed at such an age, did we not know that when the pest +cut the mighty master off in his hundredth year he was busily at work +upon a Descent from the Cross, which Palma the Elder finished on his +knees and dedicated to God: Quod Titianus inchoatum reliquit Palma +reverenter absolvit Deoque dicavit opus. + +The vast representation of Titian rather injures Veronese and Tintoret. +Opposite the Gloria of Yuste hangs the sketch of that stupendous +Paradise of Tintoret, which we see in the Palace of the Doges,--the +biggest picture ever painted by mortal, thirty feet high and +seventy-four long. + +The sketch was secured by Velazquez in his tour through Italy. The most +charming picture of Veronese is a Venus and Adonis, which is finer than +that of Titian,--a classic and most exquisite idyl of love and sleep, +cool shadow and golden-sifted sunshine. His most considerable work in +the gallery is a Christ teaching the Doctors, magnificent in +arrangement, severely correct in drawing, and of a most vivid and +dramatic interest. + +We pass through a circular vaulted chamber to reach the Flemish rooms. +There is a choice though scanty collection of the German and French +schools. Albert Durer has an Adam and Eve, and a priceless portrait of +himself as perfectly preserved as if it were painted yesterday. He wears +a curious and picturesque costume,--striped black-and-white,--a graceful +tasselled cap of the same. The picture is sufficiently like the statue +at Nuremberg; a long South-German face, blue-eyed and thin, +fair-whiskered, with that expression of quiet confidence you would +expect in the man who said one day, with admirable candor, when people +were praising a picture of his, "It could not be better done." In this +circular room are four great Claudes, two of which, Sunrise and Sunset, +otherwise called the Embarcation of Sta. Paula, and Tobit and the Angel, +are in his best and richest manner. It is inconceivable to us, who +graduate men by a high-school standard, that these refined and most +elegant works could have been produced by a man so imperfectly educated +as Claude Lorrain. + +There remain the pictures of the Dutch and the Flemings. It is due to +the causes we have mentioned in the beginning that neither in Antwerp +nor Dresden nor Paris is there such wealth and profusion of the +Netherlands art as in this mountain-guarded corner of Western Europe. I +shall have but a word to say of these three vast rooms, for Rubens and +Van Dyck and Teniers are known to every one. The first has here a +representation so complete that if Europe were sunk by a cataclysm from +the Baltic to the Pyrenees every essential characteristic of the great +Fleming could still be studied in this gallery. With the exception of +his Descent from the Cross in the Cathedral at Antwerp, painted in a +moment of full inspiration that never comes twice in a life, everything +he has done elsewhere may be matched in Madrid. His largest picture here +is an Adoration of the Kings, an overpowering exhibition of wasteful +luxuriance of color and _fougue_ of composition. To the left the Virgin +stands leaning with queenly majesty over the effulgent Child. From this +point the light flashes out over the kneeling magi, the gorgeously +robed attendants, the prodigality of velvet and jewels and gold, to fade +into the lovely clear-obscure of a starry night peopled with dim camels +and cattle. On the extreme right is a most graceful and gallant portrait +of the artist on horseback. We have another fine self-portraiture in the +Garden of Love,--a group of lords and ladies in a delicious pleasance +where the greatest seigneur is Peter Paul Rubens and the finest lady is +Helen Forman. These true artists had to paint for money so many ignoble +faces that they could not be blamed for taking their revenge in painting +sometimes their own noble heads. Van Dyck never drew a profile so +faultless in manly beauty as his own which we see on the same canvas +with that of his friend the Earl of Bristol. Look at the two faces side +by side, and say whether God or the king can make the better nobleman. + +Among those mythological subjects in which Rubens delighted, the best +here are his Perseus and Andromeda, where the young hero comes +gloriously in a brand-new suit of Milanese armor, while the lovely +princess, in a costume that never grows old-fashioned, consisting of +sunshine and golden hair, awaits him and deliverance in beautiful +resignation; a Judgment of Paris, the Three Graces,--both prodigies of +his strawberries-and-cream color; and a curious suckling of Hercules, +which is the prototype or adumbration of the ecstatic vision of St. +Bernard. He has also a copy of Titian's Adam and Eve, in an +out-of-the-way place downstairs, which should be hung beside the +original, to show the difference of handling of the two master +colorists. + +Especially happy is this Museum in its Van Dycks. Besides those +incomparable portraits of Lady Oxford, of Liberti the Organist of +Antwerp, and others better than the best of any other man, there are a +few large and elaborate compositions such as I have never seen +elsewhere. The principal one is the Capture of Christ by Night in the +Garden of Gethsemane, which has all the strength of Rubens, with a more +refined study of attitudes and a greater delicacy of tone and touch. +Another is the Crowning with Thorns,--although of less dimensions, of +profound significance in expression, and a flowing and marrowy softness +of execution. You cannot survey the work of Van Dyck in this collection, +so full of deep suggestion, showing an intellect so vivid and so +refined, a mastery of processes so thorough and so intelligent, without +the old wonder of what he would have done in that ripe age when Titian +and Murillo and Shakespeare wrought their best and fullest, and the old +regret for the dead,--as Edgar Poe sings, the doubly dead in that they +died so young. We are tempted to lift the veil that hides the unknown, +at least with the furtive hand of conjecture; to imagine a field of +unquenched activity where the early dead, free from the clogs and +trammels of the lower world, may follow out the impulses of their +diviner nature,--where Andrea has no wife, and Raphael and Van Dyck no +disease,--where Keats and Shelley have all eternity for their lofty +rhyme,--where Ellsworth and Koerner and the Lowell boys can turn their +alert and athletic intelligence to something better than war. + + + + +A CASTLE IN THE AIR + + +I have sometimes thought that a symptom of the decay of true kinghood in +modern times is the love of monarchs for solitude. In the early days +when monarchy was a real power to answer a real want, the king had no +need to hide himself. He was the strongest, the most knowing, the most +cunning. He moved among men their acknowledged chief. He guided and +controlled them. He never lost his dignity by daily use. He could steal +a horse like Diomede, he could mend his own breeches like Dagobert, and +never tarnish the lustre of the crown by it. But in later times the +throne has become an anachronism. The wearer of a crown has done nothing +to gain it but give himself the trouble to be born. He has no claim to +the reverence or respect of men. Yet he insists upon it, and receives +some show of it. His life is mainly passed in keeping up this battle for +a lost dignity and worship. He is given up to shams and ceremonies. + +To a life like this there is something embarrassing in the movement and +activity of a great city. The king cannot join in it without a loss of +prestige. Being outside of it, he is vexed and humiliated by it. The +empty forms become nauseous in the midst of this honest and wholesome +reality of out-of-doors. + +Hence the necessity of these quiet retreats in the forests, in the +water-guarded islands, in the cloud-girdled mountains. Here the world is +not seen or heard. Here the king may live with such approach to nature +as his false and deformed education will allow. He is surrounded by +nothing but the world of servants and courtiers, and it requires little +effort of the imagination to consider himself chief and lord. + +It was this spirit which in the decaying ripeness of the Bourbon dynasty +drove the Louis from Paris to Versailles and from Versailles to Marly. +Millions were wasted to build the vast monument of royal fatuity, and +when it was done the Grand Monarque found it necessary to fly from time +to time to the sham solitude and mock retirement he had built an hour +away. + +When Philip V. came down from France to his splendid exile on the throne +of Spain, he soon wearied of the interminable ceremonies of the +Cas-tilian court, and finding one day, while hunting, a pleasant farm on +the territory of the Segovian monks, flourishing in a wrinkle of the +Guadarrama Mountains, he bought it, and reared the Palace of La Granja. +It is only kings who can build their castles in the air of palpable +stones and mortar. This lordly pleasure-house stands four thousand feet +above the sea level. On this commanding height, in this savage Alpine +loneliness, in the midst of a scenery once wildly beautiful, but now +shorn and shaven into a smug likeness of a French garden, Philip passed +all the later years of his gloomy and inglorious life. + +It has been ever since a most tempting summer-house to all the Bourbons. +When the sun is calcining the plains of Castile, and the streets of +Madrid are white with the hot light of midsummer, this palace in the +clouds is as cool and shadowy as spring twilights. And besides, as all +public business is transacted in Madrid, and La Granja is a day's +journey away, it is too much trouble to send a courier every day for the +royal signature,--or, rather, rubric, for royalty in Spain is above +handwriting, and gives its majestic approval with a flourish of the +pen,--so that everything waits a week or so, and much business goes +finally undone; and this is the highest triumph of Spanish industry and +skill. + +We had some formal business with the court of the regent, and were not +sorry to learn that his highness would not return to the capital for +some weeks, and that consequently, following the precedent of a certain +prophet, we must go to the mountain. + +We found at the Estacion del Norte the state railway carriage of her +late majesty,--a brilliant creation of yellow satin and profuse gilding, +a bovidoir on wheels,--not too full of a distinguished company. Some of +the leading men of New Spain, one or two ministers, were there, and we +passed a pleasant two hours on the road in that most seductive of all +human occupations,--talking politics. + +It is remarkable that whenever a nation is remodelling its internal +structure, the subject most generally discussed is the constitutional +system of the United States. The republicans usually adopt it solid. The +monarchists study it with a jealous interest. I fell into conversation +with Senor------, one of the best minds in Spain, an enlightened though +conservative statesman. He said: "It is hard for Europe to adopt a +settled belief about you. America is a land of wonders, of +contradictions. One party calls your system freedom, another anarchy. In +all legislative assemblies of Europe, republicans and absolutists alike +draw arguments from America. But what cannot be denied are the effects, +the results. These are evident, something vast and grandiose, a life and +movement to which the Old World is stranger." He afterwards referred +with great interest to the imaginary imperialist movement in America, +and raised his eyebrows in polite incredulity when I assured him there +was as much danger of Spain becoming Mohammedan as of America becoming +imperialist. + +We stopped at the little station of Villalba, in the midst of the wide +brown table-land that stretches from Madrid to the Escorial. At Villalba +we found the inevitable swarm of beggars, who always know by the sure +instinct of wretchedness where a harvest of cuartos is to be achieved. I +have often passed Villalba and have seen nothing but the station-master +and the water-vender. But to-day, because there were a half dozen +excellencies on the train, the entire mendicant force of the district +was on parade. They could not have known these gentlemen were coming; +they must have scented pennies in the air. + +Awaiting us at the rear of the station were three enormous lumbering +diligences, each furnished with nine superb mules,--four pairs and a +leader. They were loaded with gaudy trappings, and their shiny coats, +and backs shorn into graceful arabesques, showed that they did not +belong to the working-classes, but enjoyed the gentlemanly leisure of +official station. The drivers wore a smart postilion uniform and the +royal crown on their caps. + +We threw some handfuls of copper and bronze among the picturesque +mendicants. They gathered them up with grave Castilian decorum, and +said, "God will repay your graces." The postilions cracked their whips, +the mules shook their bells gayly, the heavy wagons started off at a +full gallop, and the beggars said, "May your graces go with God!" + +It was the end of July, and the sky was blue and cloudless. The fine, +soft light of the afternoon was falling on the tawny slopes and the +close-reaped fields. The harvest was over. In the fields on either side +they were threshing their grain, not as in the outside world, with the +whirring of loud and swift machinery, nor even with the active and +lively swinging of flails; but in the open air, under the warm sky, the +cattle were lazily treading out the corn on the bare ground, to be +winnowed by the wandering wind. No change from the time of Solomon. +Through an infinity of ages, ever since corn and cattle were, the +Iberian farmer in this very spot had driven his beasts over his crop, +and never dreamed of a better way of doing the work. + +Not only does the Spaniard not seek for improvements, he utterly +despises and rejects them. The poorer classes especially, who would +find an enormous advantage in increased production, lightening their +hard lot by a greater plenty of the means of life, regard every +introduction of improved machinery as a blow at the rights of labor. +When many years ago a Dutch vintner went to Valdepenas and so greatly +improved the manufacture of that excellent but ill-made wine that its +price immediately rose in the Madrid market, he was mobbed and plundered +by his ignorant neighbors, because, as they said, he was laboring to +make wine dearer. In every attempt which has been made to manufacture +improved machinery in Spain, the greatest care has to be taken to +prevent the workmen from maliciously damaging the works, which they +imagine are to take the bread from the mouths of their children. + +So strong is this feeling in every department of national life, that the +mayoral who drove our spanking nine-in-hand received with very ill humor +our suggestion that the time could be greatly shortened by a Fell +railroad over the hills to La Granja. "What would become of nosotros?" +he asked. And it really would seem a pity to annihilate so much +picturesqueness and color at the bidding of mere utility. A gayly +embroidered Andalusian jacket, bright scarlet silk waistcoat,--a rich +wide belt, into which his long knife, the navaja, was jauntily +thrust,--buckskin breeches, with Valentian stockings, which, as they are +open at the bottom, have been aptly likened to a Spaniard's purse,--and +shoes made of Murcian matting, composed his natty outfit. By his side on +the box sat the zagal, his assistant, whose especial function seemed to +be to swear at the cattle. I have heard some eloquent imprecation in my +day. "Our army swore terribly" at Hilton Head. The objuration of the +boatmen of the Mississippi is very vigorous and racy. But I have never +assisted at a session of profanity so loud, so energetic, so original as +that with which this Castilian postilion regaled us. The wonderful +consistency and perseverance with which the role was sustained was +worthy of a much better cause. + +He began by yelling in a coarse, strident voice, "Arre! arre!" (Get up!) +with a vicious emphasis on the final syllable. This is one of the +Moorish words that have remained fixed like fossils in the language of +the conquerors. Its constant use in the mouths of muleteers has given +them the name of arrieros. This general admonition being addressed to +the team at large, the zagal descended to details, and proceeded to +vilipend the galloping beasts separately, beginning with the leader. He +informed him, still in this wild, jerking scream, that he was a dog, +that his mother's character was far from that of Caesar's wife, and that +if more speed was not exhibited on this down grade, he would be forced +to resort to extreme measures. At the mention of a whip, the tall male +mule who led the team dashed gallantly off, and the diligence was soon +enveloped in a cloud of dust. This seemed to excite our gay charioteer +to the highest degree. He screamed lustily at his mules, addressing each +personally by its name. "Andaluza, arre! Thou of Arragon, go! Beware the +scourge, Manchega!" and every animal acknowledged the special attention +by shaking its ears and bells and whisking its shaven tail, as the +diligence rolled furiously over the dull drab plain. + +For three hours the iron lungs of the muleteer knew no rest or pause. +Several times in the journey we stopped at a post-station to change our +cattle, but the same brazen throat sufficed for all the threatening and +encouragement that kept them at the top of their speed. Before we +arrived at our journey's end, however, he was hoarse as a raven, and +kept one hand pressed to his jaw to reinforce the exhausted muscles of +speech. + +When the wide and dusty plain was passed, we began by a slow and winding +ascent the passage of the Guadarrama. The road is an excellent one, and +although so seldom used,--a few months only in the year,--it is kept in +the most perfect repair. It is exclusively a summer road, being in the +winter impassable with snow. It affords at every turn the most charming +compositions of mountain and wooded valley. At intervals we passed a +mounted guardia civil, who sat as motionless in his saddle as an +equestrian statue, and saluted as the coaches rattled by. And once or +twice in a quiet nook by the roadside we came upon the lonely cross that +marked the spot where a man had been murdered. + +It was nearly sunset when we arrived at the summit of the pass. We +halted to ask for a glass of water at the hut of a gray-haired woman on +the mountain-top. It was given and received as always in this pious +country, in the name of God. As we descended, the mules seemed to have +gained new vigor from the prospect of an easy stretch of _facilis +descensus,_ and the zagal employed what was left of his voice in +provoking them to speed by insulting remarks upon their lineage. The +quick twilight fell as we entered a vast forest of pines that clothed +the mountain-side. The enormous trees looked in the dim evening light +like the forms of the Anakim, maimed with lightning but still defying +heaven. Years of battle with the mountain winds had twisted them into +every conceivable shape of writhing and distorted deformity. I never saw +trees that so nearly conveyed the idea of being the visible prison of +tortured dryads. Their trunks, white and glistening with oozing resin, +added to the ghostly impression they created in the uncertain and +failing light. + +We reached the valley and rattled by a sleepy village, where we were +greeted by a chorus of outraged curs whose beauty-sleep we had +disturbed, and then began the slow ascent of the hill where St. +Ildefonso stands. We had not gone far when we heard a pattering of hoofs +and a ringing of sabres coming down the road to meet us. The diligence +stopped, and the Introducer of Ambassadors jumped to the ground and +announced, "El Regente del Reino!" It was the regent, the courteous and +amiable Marshal Serrano, who had ridden out from the palace to welcome +his guests, and who, after hasty salutations, galloped back to La +Granja, where we soon arrived. + +We were assigned the apartments usually given to the papal nuncio, and +slept with an episcopal peace of mind. In the morning, as we were +walking about the gardens, we saw looking from the palace window one of +the most accomplished gentlemen and diplomatists of the new regime. He +descended and did the honors of the place. The system of gardens and +fountains is enormous. It is evidently modelled upon Versailles, but the +copy is in many respects finer than the original. The peculiarity of the +site, while offering great difficulties, at the same time enhances the +triumph of success. This is a garden taught to bloom upon a barren +mountain-side. The earth in which these trees are planted was brought +from those dim plains in the distance on the backs of men and mules. The +pipes that supply these innumerable fountains were laid on the bare +rocks and the soil was thrown over them. Every tree was guarded and +watched like a baby. There was probably never a garden that grew under +such circumstances,--but the result is superb. The fountains are fed by +a vast reservoir in the mountain, and the water they throw into the +bright air is as clear as morning dew. Every alley and avenue is a vista +that ends in a vast picture of shaggy hills or far-off plains,--while +behind the royal gardens towers the lordly peak of the Penalara, thrust +eight thousand feet into the thin blue ether. + +The palace has its share of history. It witnessed the abdication of the +uxorious bigot Philip V. in 1724, and his resumption of the crown the +next year at the instance of his proud and turbulent Parmesan wife. His +bones rest in the church here, as he hated the Austrian line too +intensely to share with them the gorgeous crypt of the Escorial. His +wife, Elizabeth Farnese, lies under the same gravestone with him, as if +unwilling to forego even in death that tremendous influence which her +vigorous vitality had always exercised over his wavering and sensual +nature. "Das Ewig-Weibliche" masters and guides him still. + +This retreat in the autumn of 1832 was the scene of a prodigious +exhibition of courage and energy on the part of another Italian woman, +Dona Louisa Carlota de Borbon. Ferdinand VIL, his mind weakened by +illness, and influenced by his ministers, had proclaimed his brother Don +Carlos heir to the throne, to the exclusion of his own infant daughter. +His wife, Queen Christine, broken down by the long conflict, had given +way in despair. But her sister, Dona Louisa Carlota, heard of the news +in the south of Spain, and, leaving her babies at _Cadiz_ (two little +urchins, one of whom was to be king consort, and the other was to fall +by his cousin Montpensier's hand in the field of Carabanchel), she +posted without a moment's pause for rest or sleep over mountains and +plains from the sea to La Granja. She fought with the lackeys and the +ministers twenty-four hours before she could see her sister the queen. +Having breathed into Christine her own invincible spirit, they +succeeded, after endless pains, in reaching the king. Obstinate as the +weak often are, he refused at first to listen to them; but by their +womanly wiles, their Italian policy, their magnetic force, they at last +brought him to revoke his decree in favor of Don Carlos and to recognize +the right of his daughter to the crown. Then, terrible in her triumph, +Dona Louisa Carlota sent for the Minister Calomarde, overwhelmed him +with the coarsest and most furious abuse, and, unable to confine her +victorious rage and hate to words alone, she slapped the astounded +minister in the face. Calomarde, trembling with rage, bowed and said, "A +white hand cannot offend." + +There is nothing stronger than a woman's weakness, or weaker than a +woman's strength. + +A few years later, when Ferdinand was in his grave, and the baby Isabel +reigned under the regency of Christine, a movement in favor of the +constitution of 1812 burst out, where revolutions generally do, in the +south, and spread rapidly over the contiguous provinces. The infection +gained the troops of the royal guard at La Granja, and they surrounded +the palace bawling for the constitution. The regentess, with a proud +reliance upon her own power, ordered them to send a deputation to her +apartment. A dozen of the mutineers came in, and demanded the +constitution. + +"What is that?" asked the queen. + +They looked at each other and cudgelled their brains. They had never +thought of that before. + +"Caramba!" said they. "We don't know. They say it is a good thing, and +will raise our pay and make salt cheaper." + +Their political economy was somewhat flimsy, but they had the bayonets, +and the queen was compelled to give way and proclaim the constitution. + +I must add one trifling reminiscence more of La Granja, which has also +its little moral. A friend of mine, a colonel of engineers, in the +summer before the revolution, was standing before the palace with some +officers, when a mean-looking cur ran past. + +"What an ugly dog!" said the colonel. + +"Hush!" replied another, with an awe-struck face. "That is the dog of +his royal highness the Prince of Asturias." + +The colonel unfortunately had a logical mind, and failed to see that +ownership had any bearing on a purely aesthetic question. He defined his +position. "I do not think the dog is ugly because he belongs to the +prince. I only mean the prince has an ugly dog." + +The window just above them slammed, and another officer came up and said +that the Adversary was to pay. "THE QUEEN was at the window and heard +every word you said." + +An hour after the colonel received an order from the commandant of the +place, revoking his leave of absence and ordering him to duty in Madrid. +It is not very surprising that this officer was at the Bridge of +Alcolea. + +At noon the day grew dark with clouds, and the black storm-wreath came +down over the mountains. A terrific fire of artillery resounded for a +half-hour in the craggy peaks about us, and a driving shower passed over +palace and gardens. Then the sun came out again, the pleasure-grounds +were fresher and greener than ever, and the visitors thronged in the +court of the palace to see the fountains in play. The regent led the way +on foot. The general followed in a pony phaeton, and ministers, +adjutants, and the population of the district trooped along in a +party-colored mass. + +It was a good afternoon's work to visit all the fountains. They are +twenty-six in number, strewn over the undulating grounds. People who +visit Paris usually consider a day of Grandes Eaux at Versailles the +last word of this species of costly trifling. But the waters at +Versailles bear no comparison with those of La Granja. The sense is +fatigued and bewildered here with their magnificence and infinite +variety. The vast reservoir in the bosom of the mountain, filled with +the purest water, gives a possibility of more superb effects than have +been attained anywhere else in the world. The Fountain of the Winds is +one, where a vast mass of water springs into the air from the foot of a +great cavernous rock; there is a succession of exquisite cascades called +the Race-Course, filled with graceful statuary; a colossal group of +Apollo slaying the Python, who in his death agony bleeds a torrent of +water; the Basket of Flowers, which throws up a system of forty jets; +the great single jet called Fame, which leaps one hundred and thirty +feet into the air, a Niagara reversed; and the crowning glory of the +garden, the Baths of Diana, an immense stage scene in marble and bronze, +crowded with nymphs and hunting-parties, wild beasts and birds, and +everywhere the wildest luxuriance of spouting waters. We were told that +it was one of the royal caprices of a recent tenant of the palace to +emulate her chaste prototype of the silver bow by choosing this artistic +basin for her ablutions, a sufficient number of civil guards being +posted to prevent the approach of Castilian Actaeons. Ford aptly remarks +of these extravagant follies: "The yoke of building kings is grievous, +and especially when, as St. Simon said of Louis XIV. and his Versailles, +'II se plut a tyranniser la nature.'" + +As the bilious Philip paused before this mass of sculptured +extravagance, he looked at it a moment with evident pleasure. Then he +thought of the bill, and whined, "Thou hast amused me three minutes and +hast cost me three millions." + +To do Philip justice, he did not allow the bills to trouble him much. He +died owing forty-five million piastres, which his dutiful son refused to +pay. When you deal with Bourbons, it is well to remember the Spanish +proverb, "A sparrow in the hand is better than a bustard on the wing." + +We wasted an hour in walking through the palace. It is, like all +palaces, too fine and dreary to describe. Miles of drawing-rooms and +boudoirs, with an infinity of tapestry and gilt chairs, all the +apartments haunted by the demon of ennui. All idea of comfort is +sacrificed to costly glitter and flimsy magnificence. Some fine +paintings were pining in exile on the desolate walls. They looked +homesick for the Museum, where they could be seen of men. + +The next morning we drove down the mountain and over the rolling plain +to the fine old city of Segovia. In point of antiquity and historic +interest it is inferior to no town in Spain. It has lost its ancient +importance as a seat of government and a mart of commerce. Its +population is now not more than eleven thousand. Its manufactures have +gone to decay. Its woollen works, which once employed fourteen thousand +persons and produced annually twenty-five thousand pieces of cloth, now +sustain a sickly existence and turn out not more than two hundred pieces +yearly. Its mint, which once spread over Spain a Danaean shower of +ounces and dollars, is now reduced to the humble office of striking +copper cuartos. More than two centuries ago this decline began. Boisel, +who was there in 1669, speaks of the city as "presque desert et fort +pauvre." He mentions as a mark of the general unthrift that the day he +arrived there was no bread in town until two o'clock in the afternoon, +"and no one was astonished at it." + +Yet even in its poverty and rags it has the air of a town that has seen +better days. Tradition says it was founded by Hercules. It was an +important city of the Roman Empire, and a great capital in the days of +the Arab monarchy. It was the court of the star-gazing King Alonso the +Wise. Through a dozen centuries it was the flower of the mountains of +Castile. Each succeeding age and race beautified and embellished it, and +each, departing, left the trace of its passage in the abiding granite of +its monuments. The Romans left the glorious aqueduct, that work of +demigods who scorned to mention it in their histories; its mediaeval +bishops bequeathed to later times their ideas of ecclesiastical +architecture; and the Arabs the science of fortification and the +industrial arts. + +Its very ruin and decay makes it only more precious to the traveller. +There are here none of the modern and commonplace evidences of life and +activity that shock the artistic sense in other towns. All is old, +moribund, and picturesque. It lies here in the heart of the Guadarramas, +lost and forgotten by the civilization of the age, muttering in its +senile dream of the glories of an older world. It has not vitality +enough to attract a railroad, and so is only reached by a long and +tiresome journey by diligence. Its solitude is rarely intruded upon by +the impertinent curious, and the red back of Murray is a rare apparition +in its winding streets. + +Yet those who come are richly repaid. One does not quickly forget the +impression produced by the first view of the vast aqueduct, as you drive +into the town from La Granja. It comes upon you in an instant,--the two +great ranges of superimposed arches, over one hundred feet high, +spanning the ravine-like suburb from the outer hills to the Alcazar. You +raise your eyes from the market-place, with its dickering crowd, from +the old and squalid houses clustered like shot rubbish at the foot of +the chasm, to this grand and soaring wonder of utilitarian architecture, +with something of a fancy that it was never made, that it has stood +there since the morning of the world. It has the lightness and the +strength, the absence of ornament and the essential beauty, the vastness +and the perfection, of a work of nature. + +It is one of those gigantic works of Trajan, so common in that +magnificent age that Roman authors do not allude to it. It was built to +bring the cool mountain water of the Sierra Fonfria a distance of nine +miles through the hills, the gulches, and the pine forests of Valsain, +and over the open plain to the thirsty city of Segovia. The aqueduct +proper runs from the old tower of Caseron three thousand feet to the +reservoir where the water deposits its sand and sediment, and thence +begins the series of one hundred and nineteen arches, which traverse +three thousand feet more and pass the valley, the arrabal, and reach the +citadel. It is composed of great blocks of granite, so perfectly framed +and fitted that not a particle of mortar or cement is employed in the +construction. + +The wonder of the work is not so much in its vastness or its beauty as +in its tremendous solidity and duration. A portion of it had been cut +away by barbarous armies during the fifteenth century, and in the reign +of Isabella the Catholic the monk-architect of the Parral, Juan +Escovedo, the greatest builder of his day in Spain, repaired it. These +repairs have themselves twice needed repairing since then. Marshal Ney, +when he came to this portion of the monument, exclaimed, "Here begins +the work of men's hands." + +The true Segovian would hoot at you if you assigned any mortal paternity +to the aqueduct. He calls it the Devil's Bridge, and tells you this +story. The Evil One was in love with a pretty girl of the upper town, +and full of protestations of devotion. The fair Segovian listened to him +one evening, when her plump arms ached with the work of bringing water +from the ravine, and promised eyes of favor if his Infernal Majesty +would build an aqueduct to her door before morning. He worked all night, +like the Devil, and the maiden, opening her black eyes at sunrise, saw +him putting the last stone in the last arch, as the first ray of the sun +lighted on his shining tail. The Church, we think very unfairly, decided +that he had failed, and released the coquettish contractor from her +promise; and it is said the Devil has never trusted a Sego-vian out of +his sight again. + +The bartizaned keep of the Moorish Alcazar is perched on the western +promontory of the city that guards the meeting of the streams Eresma and +Clamores. It has been in the changes of the warring times a palace, a +fortress, a prison (where our friend--everybody's friend--Gil Blas was +once confined), and of late years a college of artillery. In one of its +rooms Alonso the Wise studied the heavens more than was good for his +orthodoxy, and from one of its windows a lady of the court once dropped +a royal baby, of the bad blood of Trasta-mara. Henry of Trastamara will +seem more real if we connect him with fiction. He was the son of "La +Favorita," who will outlast all legitimate princesses, in the deathless +music of Donizetti. + +Driving through a throng of beggars that encumbered the carriage wheels +as grasshoppers sometimes do the locomotives on a Western railway, we +came to the fine Gothic Cathedral, built by Gil de Ontanon, father and +son, in the early part of the sixteenth century. It is a delight to the +eyes; the rich harmonious color of the stone, the symmetry of +proportion, the profuse opulence and grave finish of the details. It was +built in that happy era of architecture when a builder of taste and +culture had all the past of Gothic art at his disposition, and before +the degrading influence of the Jesuits appeared in the churches of +Europe. Within the Cathedral is remarkably airy and graceful in effect. +A most judicious use has been made of the exquisite salmon-colored +marbles of the country in the great altar and the pavement. + +We were met by civil ecclesiastics of the foundation and shown the +beauties and the wonders of the place. Among much that is worthless, +there is one very impressive Descent from the Cross by Juan de Juni, of +which that excellent Mr. Madoz says "it is worthy to rank with the best +masterpieces of Raphael or--Mengs;" as if one should say of a poet that +he was equal to Shakespeare or Southey. + +We walked through the cloisters and looked at the tombs. A flood of warm +light poured through the graceful arches and lit up the trees in the +garden and set the birds to singing, and made these cloisters pleasanter +to remember than they usually are. Our attendant priest told us, with an +earnest credulity that was very touching, the story of Maria del Salto, +Mary of the Leap, whose history was staring at us from the wall. She was +a Jewish lady, whose husband had doubts of her discretion, and so threw +her from a local Tarpeian rock. As she fell she invoked the Virgin, and +came down easily, sustained, as you see in the picture, by her faith and +her petticoats. + +As we parted from the good fathers and entered our carriages at the door +of the church, the swarm of mendicants had become an army. The word had +doubtless gone through the city of the outlandish men who had gone into +the Cathedral with whole coats, and the result was a _levee en masse_ of +the needy. Every coin that was thrown to them but increased the clamor, +as it confirmed them in their idea of the boundless wealth and +munificence of the givers. We recalled the profound thought of Emerson, +"If the rich were only as rich as the poor think them!" + +At last we drove desperately away through the ragged and screaming +throng. We passed by the former home of the Jeronomite monks of the +Parral, which was once called an earthly paradise, and in later years +has been a pen for swine; past crumbling convents and ruined churches; +past the charming Romanesque San Millan, girdled with its round-arched +cloisters; the granite palace of his Reverence the Bishop of Segovia, +and the elegant tower of St. Esteban, where the Roman is dying and the +Gothic is dawning; and every step of the route is a study and a joy to +the antiquarian. + +But though enriched by all these legacies of an immemorial past, there +seems no hope, no future for Segovia. It is as dead as the cities of the +Plain. Its spindles have rusted into silence. Its gay company is gone. +Its streets are too large for the population, and yet they swarm with +beggars. I had often heard it compared in outline to a ship,--the +sunrise astern and the prow pointing westward,--and as we drove away +that day and I looked back to the receding town, it seemed to me like a +grand hulk of some richly laden galleon, aground on the rock that holds +it, alone, abandoned to its fate among the barren billows of the +tumbling ridges, its crew tired out with struggling and apathetic in +despair, mocked by the finest air and the clearest sunshine that ever +shone, and gazing always forward to the new world and the new times +hidden in the rosy sunset, which they shall never see. + + + + +THE CITY OF THE VISIGOTHS + + +Emilio Castelar said to me one day, "Toledo is the most remarkable city +in Spain. You will find there three strata of glories,--Gothic, Arab, +and Castilian,--and an upper crust of beggars and silence." + +I went there in the pleasantest time of the year, the first days of +June. The early harvest was in progress, and the sunny road ran through +golden fields which were enlivened by the reapers gathering in their +grain with shining sickles. The borders of the Tagus were so cool and +fresh that it was hard to believe one was in the arid land of Castile. +From Madrid to Aranjuez you meet the usual landscapes of dun hillocks +and pale-blue vegetation, such as are only seen in nature in Central +Spain, and only seen in art on the matchless canvas of Velazquez. But +from the time you cross the tawny flood of the Tagus just north of +Aranjuez, the valley is gladdened by its waters all the way to the +Primate City. + +I am glad I am not writing a guide-book, and do not feel any +responsibility resting upon me of advising the gentle reader to stop at +Aranjuez or to go by on the other side. There is a most amiable and +praiseworthy class of travellers who feel a certain moral necessity +impelling them to visit every royal abode within their reach. They +always see precisely the same things,--some thousand of gilt chairs, +some faded tapestry and marvellous satin upholstery, a room in +porcelain, and a room in imitation of some other room somewhere else, +and a picture or two by that worthy and tedious young man, Raphael +Mengs. I knew I would see all these things at Aranjuez, and so contented +myself with admiring its pretty site, its stone-cornered brick facade, +its high-shouldered French roof, and its general air of the Place +Royale, from the outside. The gardens are very pleasant, and lonely +enough for the most philosophic stroller. A clever Spanish writer says +of them, "They are sombre as the thoughts of Philip II., mysterious and +gallant as the pleasures of Philip IV." To a revolutionary mind, it is a +certain pleasure to remember that this was the scene of the _emeute_ +that drove Charles IV. from his throne, and the Prince of Peace from his +queen's boudoir. Ferdinand VII., the turbulent and restless Prince of +Asturias, reaped the immediate profit of his father's abdication; but +the two worthless creatures soon called in Napoleon to decide the +squabble, which he did in his leonine way by taking the crown away from +both of them and handing it over for safe-keeping to his lieutenant +brother Joseph. Honor among thieves!--a silly proverb, as one readily +sees if he falls into their hands, or reads the history of kings. + +If Toledo had been built, by some caprice of enlightened power, +especially for a show city, it could not be finer in effect. In detail, +it is one vast museum. In ensemble, it stands majestic on its hills, +with its long lines of palaces and convents terraced around the rocky +slope, and on the height the soaring steeples of a swarm of churches +piercing the blue, and the huge cube of the Alcazar crowning the topmost +crest, and domineering the scene. The magnificent zigzag road which +leads up the steep hillside from the bridge of Alcantara gives an +indefinable impression, as of the lordly ramp of some fortress of +impossible extent. + +This road is new, and in perfect condition. But do not imagine you can +judge the city by the approaches. When your carriage has mounted the +hill and passed the evening promenade of the To-ledans, the quaint +triangular Place,--I had nearly called it Square,--"waking laughter in +indolent reviewers," the Zocodover, you are lost in the dae-dalian +windings of the true streets of Toledo, where you can touch the walls on +either side, and where two carriages could no more pass each other than +two locomotives could salute and go by on the same track. This +interesting experiment, which is so common in our favored land, could +never be tried in Toledo, as I believe there is only one turnout in the +city, a minute omnibus with striped linen hangings at the sides, driven +by a young Castilian whose love of money is the root of much discussion +when you pay his bill. It is a most remarkable establishment. The horses +can cheerfully do their mile in fifteen or twenty minutes, but they make +more row about it than a high-pressure Mississippi steamer; and the +crazy little trap is noisier in proportion to its size than anything I +have ever seen, except perhaps an Indiana tree-toad. If you make an +excursion outside the walls, the omnibus, noise and all, is inevitable; +let it come. But inside the city you must walk; the slower the better, +for every door is a study. + +It is hard to conceive that this was once a great capital with a +population of two hundred thousand souls. You can easily walk from one +end of the city to the other in less than half an hour, and the houses +that remain seem comfortably filled by eighteen thousand inhabitants. +But in this narrow space once swarmed that enormous and busy multitude. +The city was walled about by powerful stone ramparts, which yet stand in +all their massy perfection. So there could have been no suburbs. This +great aggregation of humanity lived and toiled on the crests and in the +wrinkles of the seven hills we see to-day. How important were the +industries of the earlier days we can guess from the single fact that +John of Padilla, when he rose in defence of municipal liberty in the +time of Charles V., drew in one day from the teeming workshops twenty +thousand fighting men. He met the usual fate of all Spanish patriots, +shameful and cruel death. His palace was razed to the ground. Successive +governments, in shifting fever-fits of liberalism and absolutism, have +set up and pulled down his statue. But his memory is loved and honored, +and the example of this noblest of the comuneros impresses powerfully +to-day the ardent young minds of the new Spain. + +Your first walk is of course to the Cathedral, the Primate Church of the +kingdom. Besides its ecclesiastical importance, it is well worthy of +notice in itself. It is one of the purest specimens of Gothic +architecture in existence, and is kept in an admirable state of +preservation. Its situation is not the most favorable. It is approached +by a network of descending streets, all narrow and winding, as streets +were always built under the intelligent rule of the Moors. They +preferred to be cool in summer and sheltered in winter, rather than to +lay out great deserts of boulevards, the haunts of sunstroke and +pneumonia. The site of the Cathedral was chosen from strategic reasons +by St. Eugene, who built there his first Episcopal Church. The Moors +made a mosque of it when they conquered Castile, and the fastidious +piety of St. Ferdinand would not permit him to worship in a shrine thus +profaned. He tore down the old church and laid, in 1227, the +foundations of this magnificent structure, which was two centuries after +his death in building. There is, however, great unity of purpose and +execution in this Cathedral, due doubtless to the fact that the +architect Perez gave fifty years of his long life to the superintendence +of the early work. Inside and outside it is marked by a grave and +harmonious majesty. The great western facade is enriched with three +splendid portals,--the side ones called the doors of Hell and Judgment; +and the central a beautiful ogival arch divided into two smaller ones, +and adorned with a lavish profusion of delicately sculptured figures of +saints and prophets; on the chaste and severe cornice above, a group of +spirited busts represents the Last Supper. There are five other doors to +the temple, of which the door of the Lions is the finest, and just +beside it a heavy Ionic portico in the most detestable taste indicates +the feeling and culture that survived in the reign of Charles IV. + +To the north of the west facade rises the massive tower. It is not among +the tallest in the world, being three hundred and twenty-four feet high, +but is very symmetrical and impressive. In the preservation of its +pyramidal purpose it is scarcely inferior to that most consummate work, +the tower of St. Stephen's in Vienna. It is composed of three +superimposed structures, gradually diminishing in solidity and +massiveness from the square base to the high-springing octagonal spire, +garlanded with thorny crowns. It is balanced at the south end of the +facade by the pretty cupola and lantern of the Mozarabic Chapel, the +work of the Greek Theotocopouli. + +But we soon grow tired of the hot glare of June, and pass in a moment +into the cool twilight vastness of the interior, refreshing to body and +soul. Five fine naves, with eighty-four pillars formed each of sixteen +graceful columns,--the entire edifice measuring four hundred feet in +length and two hundred feet in breadth,--a grand and shadowy temple +grove of marble and granite. At all times the light is of an unearthly +softness and purity, toned by the exquisite windows and rosaces. But as +evening draws on, you should linger till the sacristan grows peremptory, +to watch the gorgeous glow of the western sunlight on the blazing roses +of the portals, and the marvellous play of rich shadows and faint gray +lights in the eastern chapels, where the grand aisles sweep in their +perfect curves around the high altar. A singular effect is here created +by the gilded organ pipes thrust out horizontally from the choir. When +the powerful choral anthems of the church peal out over the kneeling +multitude, it requires little fancy to imagine them the golden trumpets +of concealed archangels, who would be quite at home in that incomparable +choir. + +If one should speak of all the noteworthy things you meet in this +Cathedral, he would find himself in danger of following in the footsteps +of Mr. Parro, who wrote a handbook of Toledo, in which seven hundred and +forty-five pages are devoted to a hasty sketch of the basilica. For five +hundred years enormous wealth and fanatical piety have worked together +and in rivalry to beautify this spot. The boundless riches of the Church +and the boundless superstition of the laity have left their traces here +in every generation in forms of magnificence and beauty. Each of the +chapels--and there are twenty-one of them--is a separate masterpiece in +its way. The finest are those of Santiago and St. Ildefonso,--the former +built by the famous Constable Alvaro de Luna as a burial-place for +himself and family, and where he and his wife lie in storied marble; and +the other commemorating that celebrated visit of the Virgin to the +bishop, which is the favorite theme of the artists and ecclesiastical +gossips of Spain. + +There was probably never a morning call which gave rise to so much talk. +It was not the first time the Virgin had come to Toledo. This was always +a favorite excursion of hers. She had come from time to time, escorted +by St. Peter, St. Paul, and St. James. But on the morning in question, +which was not long after Bishop Ildefonso had written his clever +treatise, "De Virginitate Stae Mariae," the Queen of Heaven came down to +matin prayers, and, taking the bishop's seat, listened to the sermon +with great edification. After service she presented him with a nice new +chasuble, as his own was getting rather shabby, made of "cloth of +heaven," in token of her appreciation of his spirited pamphlet in her +defence. This chasuble still exists in a chest in Asturias. If you open +the chest, you will not see it; but this only proves the truth of the +miracle, for the chroniclers say the sacred vestment is invisible to +mortal eyes. + +But we have another and more palpable proof of the truth of the history. +The slab of marble on which the feet of the celestial visitor alighted +is still preserved in the Cathedral in a tidy chapel built on the very +spot where the avatar took place. The slab is enclosed in red jasper and +guarded by an iron grating, and above it these words of the Psalmist are +engraved in the stone, _Adorabimus in loco ubi steterunt pedes ejus._ + +This story is cut in marble and carved in wood and drawn upon brass and +painted upon canvas, in a thousand shapes and forms all over Spain. You +see in the Museum at Madrid a picture by Murillo devoted to this idle +fancy of a cunning or dreaming priest. The subject was unworthy of the +painter, and the result is what might have been expected,--a picture of +trivial and mundane beauty, without the least suggestion of +spirituality. + +But there can be no doubt of the serious, solemn earnestness with which +the worthy Castilians from that day to this believe the romance. They +came up in groups and families, touching their fingers to the sacred +slab and kissing them reverentially with muttered prayers. A father +would take the first kiss himself, and pass his consecrated finger +around among his awe-struck babes, who were too brief to reach to the +grating. Even the aged verger who showed us the shrine, who was so frail +and so old that we thought he might be a ghost escaped from some of the +mediaeval tombs in the neighborhood, never passed that pretty +white-and-gold chapel without sticking in his thumb and pulling out a +blessing. + +A few feet from this worship-worn stone, a circle drawn on one of the +marble flags marks the spot where Santa Leocadia also appeared to this +same favored Ildefonso and made her compliments on his pamphlet. Was +ever author so happy in his subject and his gentle readers? The good +bishop evidently thought the story of this second apparition might be +considered rather a heavy draught on the credulity of his flock, so he +whipped out a convenient knife and cut off a piece of her saint-ship's +veil, which clinched the narrative and struck doubters dumb. That great +king and crazy relic-hunter, Philip II., saw this rag in his time with +profound emotion,--this tiger heart, who could order the murder of a +thousand innocent beings without a pang. + +There is another chapel in this Cathedral which preaches forever its +silent condemnation of Spanish bigotry to deaf ears. This is the +Mozarabic Chapel, sacred to the celebration of the early Christian rite +of Spain. During the three centuries of Moorish domination the +enlightened and magnanimous conquerors guaranteed to those Christians +who remained within their lines the free exercise of all their rights, +including perfect freedom of worship. So that side by side the mosque +and the church worshipped God each in its own way without fear or wrong. +But when Alonso VI. recaptured the city in the eleventh century, he +wished to establish uniformity of worship, and forbade the use of the +ancient liturgy in Toledo. That which the heathen had respected the +Catholic outraged. The great Cardinal Ximenez restored the primitive +rite and devoted this charming chapel to its service. How ill a return +was made for Moorish tolerance we see in the infernal treatment they +afterwards received from king and Church. They made them choose between +conversion and death. They embraced Christianity to save their lives. +Then the priests said, "Perhaps this conversion is not genuine! Let us +send the heathen away out of our sight." One million of the best +citizens of Spain were thus torn from their homes and landed starving on +the wild African coast. And Te Deums were sung in the churches for this +triumph of Catholic unity. From that hour Spain has never prospered. It +seems as if she were lying ever since under the curse of these breaking +hearts. + +Passing by a world of artistic beauties which never tire the eyes, but +soon would tire the chronicler and reader, stepping over the broad +bronze slab in the floor which covers the dust of the haughty primate +Porto Carrero, but which bears neither name nor date, only this +inscription of arrogant humility, HIC JACET PULVIS CINIS ET NIHIL, we +walk into the verdurous and cheerful Gothic cloisters. They occupy the +site of the ancient Jewish markets, and the zealous prelate Tenorio, +cousin to the great lady's man Don Juan, could think of no better way of +acquiring the ground than that of stirring up the mob to burn the houses +of the heretics. A fresco that adorns the gate explains the means +employed, adding insult to the old injury. It is a picture of a +beautiful child hanging upon a cross; a fiendish-looking Jew, on a +ladder beside him, holds in his hand the child's heart, which he has +just taken from his bleeding breast; he holds the dripping knife in his +teeth. This brutal myth was used for centuries with great effect by the +priesthood upon the mob whenever they wanted a Jew's money or his blood. +Even to-day the old poison has not lost its power. This very morning I +heard under my window loud and shrill voices. I looked out and saw a +group of brown and ragged women, with babies in their arms, discussing +the news from Madrid. The Protestants, they said, had begun to steal +Catholic children. They talked themselves into a fury. Their elf-locks +hung about their fierce black eyes. The sinews of their lean necks +worked tensely in their voluble rage. Had they seen our mild missionary +at that moment, whom all men respect and all children instinctively +love, they would have torn him in pieces in their Maenad fury, and would +have thought they were doing their duty as mothers and Catholics. + +This absurd and devilish charge was seriously made in a Madrid journal, +the organ of the Moderates, and caused great fermentation for several +days, street rows, and debates in the Cortes, before the excitement died +away. Last summer, in the old Murcian town of Lorca, an English +gentleman, who had been several weeks in the place, was attacked and +nearly killed by a mob, who insisted that he was engaged in the business +of stealing children, and using their spinal marrow for lubricating +telegraph wires! What a picture of blind and savage ignorance is here +presented! It reminds us of that sad and pitiful "blood-bath revolt" of +Paris, where the wretched mob rose against the wretched tyrant Louis +XV., accusing him of bathing in the blood of children to restore his own +wasted and corrupted energies. + +Toledo is a city where you should eschew guides and trust implicitly to +chance in your wanderings. You can never be lost; the town is so small +that a short walk always brings you to the river or the wall, and there +you can take a new departure. If you do not know where you are going, +you have every moment the delight of some unforeseen pleasure. There is +not a street in Toledo that is not rich in treasures of +architecture,--hovels that once were marvels of building, balconies of +curiously wrought iron, great doors with sculptured posts and lintels, +with gracefully finished hinges, and studded with huge nails whose +fanciful heads are as large as billiard balls. Some of these are still +handsome residences, but most have fallen into neglect and abandonment. +You may find a beggar installed in the ruined palace of a Moorish +prince, a cobbler at work in the pleasure-house of a Castilian +conqueror. The graceful carvings are mutilated and destroyed, the +delicate arabesques are smothered and hidden under a triple coat of +whitewash. The most beautiful Moorish house in the city, the so-called +Taller del Moro, where the grim governor of Huesca invited four hundred +influential gentlemen of the province to a political dinner, and cut off +all their heads as they entered (if we may believe the chronicle, which +we do not), is now empty and rapidly going to ruin. The exquisite +panelling of the walls, the endlessly varied stucco work that seems to +have been wrought by the deft fingers of ingenious fairies, is +shockingly broken and marred. Gigantic cacti look into the windows from +the outer court. A gay pomegranate-tree flings its scarlet blossoms in +on the ruined floor. Rude little birds have built their nests in the +beautiful fretted rafters, and flutter in and out as busy as brokers. +But of all the feasting and loving and plotting these lovely walls +beheld in that strange age that seems like fable now,--the vivid, +intelligent, scientific, tolerant age of the Moors,--even the memory has +perished utterly and forever. + +We strolled away aimlessly from this beautiful desolation, and soon came +out upon the bright and airy Paseo del Transito. The afternoon sunshine +lay warm on the dull brown suburb, but a breeze blew freshly through the +dark river-gorge, and we sat upon the stone benches bordering the bluff +and gave ourselves up to the scene. To the right were the ruins of the +Roman bridge and the Moorish mills; to the left the airy arch of San +Martin's bridge spanned the bounding torrent, and far beyond stretched +the vast expanse of the green valley refreshed by the river, and rolling +in rank waves of verdure to the blue hills of Guadalupe. Below us on the +slippery rocks that lay at the foot of the sheer cliffs, some luxurious +fishermen reclined, idly watching their idle lines. The hills stretched +away, ragged and rocky, dotted with solitary towers and villas. + +A squad of beggars rapidly gathered, attracted by the gracious faces of +Las Senoras. Begging seems almost the only regular industry of Toledo. +Besides the serious professionals, who are real artists in studied +misery and ingenious deformity, all the children in town occasionally +leave their marbles and their leap-frog to turn an honest penny by +amateur mendicancy. + +A chorus of piteous whines went up. But La Senora was firm. She checked +the ready hands of the juveniles. "Children should not be encouraged to +pursue this wretched life. We should give only to blind men, because +here is a great and evident affliction; and to old women, because they +look so lonely about the boots." The exposition was so subtle and +logical that it admitted no reply. The old women and the blind men +shuffled away with their pennies, and we began to chaff the sturdy and +rosy children. + +A Spanish beggar can bear anything but banter. He is a keen +physiognomist, and selects his victims with unerring acumen. If you +storm or scowl at him, he knows he is making you uncomfortable, and +hangs on like a burr. But if you laugh at him, with good humor, he is +disarmed. A friend of mine reduced to confusion one of the most +unabashed mendicants in Castile by replying to his whining petition, +politely and with a beaming smile, "No, thank you. I never eat them." +The beggar is far from considering his employment a degrading one. It is +recognized by the Church, and the obligation of this form of charity +especially inculcated. The average Spaniard regards it as a sort of tax +to be as readily satisfied as a toll-fee. He will often stop and give a +beggar a cent, and wait for the change in maravedises. One day, at the +railway station, a muscular rogue approached me and begged for alms. I +offered him my _sac-de-nuit_ to carry a block or two. He drew himself up +proudly and said, "I beg your pardon, sir; I am no Gallician." An old +woman came up with a basket on her arm. "Can it be possible in this far +country," said La Senora, "or are these--yes, they are, deliberate +peanuts." With a penny we bought unlimited quantities of this levelling +edible, and with them the devoted adherence of the aged merchant. She +immediately took charge of our education. We must see Santa Maria la +Blanca,--it was a beautiful thing; so was the Transito. Did we see those +men and women grubbing in the hillside? They were digging bones to sell +at the station. Where did the bones come from? Quien sabe? Those +dust-heaps have been there since King Wamba. Come, we must go and see +the Churches of Mary before it grew dark. And the zealous old creature +marched away with us to the synagogue built by Samuel Ben Levi, +treasurer to that crowned panther, Peter the Cruel. This able financier +built this fine temple to the God of his fathers out of his own purse. +He was murdered for his money by his ungrateful lord, and his synagogue +stolen by the Church. It now belongs to the order of Cala-trava. + +But the other and older synagogue, now called Santa Maria la Blanca, is +much more interesting. It stands in the same quarter, the suburb +formerly occupied by the industrious and thriving Hebrews of the Middle +Ages until the stupid zeal of the Catholic kings drove them out of +Spain. The synagogue was built in the ninth century under the +enlightened domination of the Moors. At the slaughter of the Jews in +1405 it became a church. It has passed through varying fortunes since +then, having been hospital, hermitage, stable, and warehouse; but it is +now under the care of the provincial committee of art, and is somewhat +decently restored. Its architecture is altogether Moorish. It has three +aisles with thick octagonal columns supporting heavy horseshoe arches. +The spandrels are curiously adorned with rich circular stucco figures. +The soil you tread is sacred, for it was brought from Zion long before +the Crusades; the cedar rafters above you preserve the memory and the +odors of Lebanon. + +A little farther west, on a fine hill overlooking the river, in the +midst of the ruined palaces of the early kings, stands the beautiful +votive church of San Juan de los Reyes. It was built by Ferdinand and +Isabella, before the Columbus days, to commemorate a victory over their +neighbors the Portuguese. During a prolonged absence of the king, the +pious queen, wishing to prepare him a pleasant surprise, instead of +embroidering a pair of impracticable slippers as a faithful young wife +would do nowadays, finished this exquisite church by setting at work +upon it some regiments of stone-cutters and builders. It is not +difficult to imagine the beauty of the structure that greeted the king +on his welcome home. For even now, after the storms of four centuries +have beaten upon it, and the malignant hands of invading armies have +used their utmost malice against it, it is still a won-drously perfect +work of the Gothic inspiration. + +We sat on the terrace benches to enjoy the light and graceful lines of +the building, the delicately ornate door, the unique drapery of iron +chains which the freed Christians hung here when delivered from the +hands of the Moors. A lovely child, with pensive blue eyes fringed with +long lashes, and the slow sweet smile of a Madonna, sat near us and sang +to a soft, monotonous air a war-song of the Carlists. Her beauty soon +attracted the artistic eyes of La Senora, and we learned she was named +Francisca, and her baby brother, whose flaxen head lay heavily on her +shoulder, was called Jesus Mary. She asked, Would we like to go into the +church? She knew the sacristan and would go for him. She ran away like a +fawn, the tow head of little Jesus tumbling dangerously about. She +reappeared in a moment; she had disposed of mi nino, as she called it, +and had found the sacristan. This personage was rather disappointing. A +sacristan should be aged and mouldy, clothed in black of a decent +shabbiness. This was a Toledan swell in a velvet shooting-jacket, and +yellow peg-top trousers. However, he had the wit to confine himself to +turning keys, and so we gradually recovered from the shock of the +shooting-jacket. + +The church forms one great nave, divided into four vaults enriched with +wonderful stone lace-work. A superb frieze surrounds the entire nave, +bearing in great Gothic letters an inscription narrating the foundation +of the church. Everywhere the arms of Castile and Arragon, and the +wedded ciphers of the Catholic kings. Statues of heralds start +unexpectedly out from the face of the pillars. Fine as the church is, we +cannot linger here long. The glory of San Juan is its cloisters. It may +challenge the world to show anything so fine in the latest bloom and +last development of Gothic art. One of the galleries is in ruins,--a sad +witness of the brutality of armies. But the three others are enough to +show how much of beauty was possible in that final age of pure Gothic +building. The arches bear a double garland of leaves, of flowers, and of +fruits, and among them are ramping and writhing and playing every figure +of bird or beast or monster that man has seen or poet imagined. There +are no two arches alike, and yet a most beautiful harmony pervades them +all. In some the leaves are in profile, in others delicately spread upon +the graceful columns and every vein displayed. I saw one window where a +stone monkey sat reading his prayers, gowned and cowled,--an odd caprice +of the tired sculptor. There is in this infinite variety of detail a +delight that ends in something like fatigue. You cannot help feeling +that this was naturally and logically the end of Gothic art. It had run +its course. There was nothing left but this feverish quest of variety. +It was in danger, after having gained such divine heights of invention, +of degenerating into prettinesses and affectation. + +But how marvellously fine it was at last! One must see it, as in these +unequalled cloisters, half ruined, silent, and deserted, bearing with +something of conscious dignity the blows of time and the ruder wrongs of +men, to appreciate fully its proud superiority to all the accidents of +changing taste and modified culture. It is only the truest art that can +bear that test. The fanes of Paestum will always be more beautiful even +than the magical shore on which they stand. The Parthenon, fixed like a +battered coronet on the brow of the Acropolis, will always be the +loveliest sight that Greece can offer to those who come sailing in from +the blue Aegean. It is scarcely possible to imagine a condition of +thought or feeling in which these master-works shall seem quaint or +old-fashioned. They appeal, now and always, with that calm power of +perfection, to the heart and eyes of every man born of woman. + +The cloisters enclose a little garden just enough neglected to allow the +lush dark ivy, the passionflowers, and the spreading oleanders to do +their best in beautifying the place, as men have done their worst in +marring it. The clambering vines seem trying to hide the scars of their +hardly less perfect copies. Every arch is adorned with a soft and +delicious drapery of leaves and tendrils; the fair and outraged child of +art is cherished and caressed by the gracious and bountiful hands of +Mother Nature. + +As we came away, little Francisca plucked one of the five-pointed leaves +of the passion-flowers and gave it to La Senora, saying reverentially, +"This is the Hand of Our Blessed Lord!" + +The sun was throned, red as a bacchanal king, upon the purple hills, as +we descended the rocky declivity and crossed the bridge of St. Martin. + +Our little Toledan maid came with us, talking and singing incessantly, +like a sweet-voiced starling. We rested on the farther side and looked +back at the towering city, glorious in the sunset, its spires aflame, +its long lines of palace and convent clear in the level rays, its ruins +softened in the gathering shadows, the lofty bridge hanging transfigured +over the glowing river. Before us the crumbling walls and turrets of the +Gothic kings ran down from the bluff to the water-side, its terrace +overlooking the baths where, for his woe, Don Roderick saw Count +Julian's daughter under the same inflammatory circumstances as those in +which, from a Judaean housetop, Don David beheld Captain Uriah's wife. +There is a great deal of human nature abroad in the world in all ages. + +Little Francisca kept on chattering. "That is St. Martin's bridge. A +girl jumped into the water last year. She was not a lady. She was in +service. She was tired of living because she was in love. They found her +three weeks afterwards; but, Santisima Maria! she was good for nothing +then." + +Our little maid was too young to have sympathy for kings or servant +girls who die for love. She was a pretty picture as she sat there, her +blue eyes and Madonna face turned to the rosy west, singing in her sweet +child's voice her fierce little song of sedition and war:-- + + "Arriba los valientes! + Abajo tirania! + Pronto llegara el dia + De la Restauracion. + + Carlistas a caballo! + Soldados en Campana! + Viva el Rey de Espana, + Don Carlos de Borbon!" + +I cannot enumerate the churches of Toledo,--you find them in every +street and by-way. In the palmy days of the absolute theocracy this +narrow space contained more than a hundred churches and chapels. The +province was gnawed by the cancer of sixteen monasteries of monks and +twice as many convents of nuns, all crowded within these city walls. +Fully one half the ground of the city was covered by religious buildings +and mortmain property. In that age, when money meant ten times what it +signifies now, the rent-roll of the Church in Toledo was forty millions +of reals. There are even yet portions of the town where you find nothing +but churches and convents. The grass grows green in the silent streets. +You hear nothing but the chime of bells and the faint echoes of masses. +You see on every side bolted doors and barred windows, and, gliding over +the mossy pavements, the stealthy-stepping, long-robed priests. + +I will only mention two more churches, and both of these converts from +heathendom; both of them dedicated to San Cristo, for in the democracy +of the calendar the Saviour is merely a saint, and reduced to the level +of the rest. One is the old pretorian temple of the Romans, which was +converted by King Sizebuto into a Christian church in the seventh +century. It is a curious structure in brick and mortar, with an apsis +and an odd arrangement of round arches sunken in the outer wall and +still deeper pointed ones. It is famed as the resting-place of Saints +Ildefonso and Leocadia, whom we have met before. The statue of the +latter stands over the door graceful and pensive enough for a heathen +muse. The little cloisters leading to the church are burial vaults. On +one side lie the canonical dead and on the other the laity, with bright +marble tablets and gilt inscriptions. In the court outside I noticed a +flat stone marked _Ossuarium._ The sacristan told me this covered the +pit where the nameless dead reposed, and when the genteel people in the +gilt marble vaults neglected to pay their annual rent, they were taken +out and tumbled in to moulder with the common clay. + +This San Cristo de la Vega, St. Christ of the Plain, stands on the wide +flat below the town, where you find the greater portion of the Roman +remains. Heaps of crumbling composite stretched in an oval form over the +meadow mark the site of the great circus. Green turf and fields of +waving grain occupy the ground where once a Latin city stood. The Romans +built on the plain. The Goths, following their instinct of isolation, +fixed their dwelling on the steep and rugged rock. The rapid Tagus +girdling the city like a horseshoe left only the declivity to the west +to be defended, and the ruins of King Wamba's wall show with what +jealous care that work was done. But the Moors, after they captured the +city, apparently did little for its defence. A great suburb grew up in +the course of ages outside the wall, and when the Christians recaptured +Toledo in 1085, the first care of Alonso VI. was to build another wall, +this time nearer the foot of the hill, taking inside all the accretion +of these years. From that day to this that wall has held Toledo. The +city has never reached, perhaps will never reach, the base of the steep +rock on which it stands. + +When King Alonso stormed the city, his first thought, in the busy half +hour that follows victory, was to find some convenient place to say his +prayers. Chance led him to a beautiful little Moorish mosque or oratory +near the superb Puerta del Sol. He entered, gave thanks, and hung up his +shield as a votive offering. This is the Church of San Cristo de la Luz. +The shield of Alonso hangs there defying time for eight centuries,--a +golden cross on a red field,--and the exquisite oratory, not much larger +than a child's toy-house, is to-day one of the most charming specimens +of Moorish art in Spain. Four square pillars support the roof, which is +divided into five equal "half-orange" domes, each different from the +others and each equally fascinating in its unexpected simplicity and +grace. You cannot avoid a feeling of personal kindliness and respect for +the refined and genial spirit who left this elegant legacy to an alien +race and a hostile creed. + +The Military College of Santa Cruz is one of the most precious specimens +extant of those somewhat confused but beautiful results of the +transition from florid Gothic to the Renaissance. The plateresque is +young and modest, and seeks to please in this splendid monument by +allying the innovating forms with the traditions of a school outgrown. +There is an exquisite and touching reminiscence of the Gothic in the +superb portal and the matchless group of the Invention of the Cross. All +this fine facade is by that true and genuine artist, Enrique de Egas, +the same who carved the grand Gate of the Lions, for which may the gate +of paradise be open to him. + +The inner court is surrounded by two stories of airy arcades, supported +by slim Corinthian columns. In one corner is the most elaborate +staircase in Spain. All the elegance and fancy of Arab and Renaissance +art have been lavished upon this masterly work. + +Santa Cruz was built for a hospital by that haughty Cardinal Mendoza, +the Tertius Rex of Ferdinand and Isabella. It is now occupied by the +military school, which receives six hundred cadets. They are under the +charge of an inspector-general and a numerous staff of professors. They +pay forty cents a day for their board. The instruction is gratuitous and +comprehends a curriculum almost identical with that of West Point. It +occupies, however, only three years. + +The most considerable Renaissance structure in Toledo is the Royal +Alcazar. It covers with its vast bulk the highest hilltop in the city. +From the earliest antiquity this spot has been occupied by a royal +palace or fortress. But the present structure was built by Charles V. +and completed by Herrera for Philip II. Its north and south facades are +very fine. The Alcazar seems to have been marked by fate. The Portuguese +burned it in the last century, and Charles III. restored it just in time +for the French to destroy it anew. Its indestructible walls alone +remain. Now, after many years of ruinous neglect, the government has +begun the work of restoration. The vast quadrangle is one mass of +scaffolding and plaster dust. The grand staircase is almost finished +again. In the course of a few years we may expect to see the Alcazar in +a state worthy of its name and history. We would hope it might never +again shelter a king. They have had their day there. Their line goes +back so far into the mists of time that its beginning eludes our utmost +search. The Roman drove out the unnamed chiefs of Iberia. The +fair-haired Goth dispossessed the Italian. The Berber destroyed the +Gothic monarchy. Castile and Leon fought their way down inch by inch +through three centuries from Covadonga to Toledo, halfway in time and +territory to Granada and the Midland Sea. And since then how many royal +feet have trodden this breezy crest,--Sanchos and Henrys and +Ferdinands,--the line broken now and then by a usurping uncle or a +fratricide brother,--a red-handed bastard of Trastamara, a star-gazing +Alonso, a plotting and praying Charles, and, after Philip, the dwindling +scions of Austria and the nullities of Bourbon. This height has known as +well the rustle of the trailing robes of queens,--Berenguela, Isabel the +Catholic, and Juana,--Crazy Jane. It was the prison of the widow of +Philip IV. and mother of Charles II. What wonder if her life left much +to be desired? With such a husband and such a son, she had no memories +nor hopes. + +The kings have had a long day here. They did some good in their time. +But the world has outgrown them, and the people, here as elsewhere, is +coming of age. This Alcazar is built more strongly than any dynasty. It +will make a glorious school-house when the repairs are finished and the +Republic is established, and then may both last forever! + +One morning at sunrise, I crossed the ancient bridge of Alcantara, and +climbed the steep hill east of the river to the ruined castle of San +Cervantes, perched on a high, bold rock, which guards the river and +overlooks the valley. Near as it is to the city, it stands entirely +alone. The instinct of aggregation is so powerful in this people that +the old towns have no environs, no houses sprinkled in the outlying +country, like modern cities. Every one must be huddled inside the walls. +If a solitary house, like this castle, is built without, it must be in +itself an impregnable fortress. This fine old ruin, in obedience to this +instinct of jealous distrust, has but one entrance, and that so narrow +that Sir John Falstaff would have been embarrassed to accept its +hospitalities. In the shade of the broken walls, grass-grown and gay +with scattered poppies, I looked at Toledo, fresh and clear in the early +day. On the extreme right lay the new spick-and-span bull-ring, then the +great hospice and Chapel of St. John the Baptist, the Convent of the +Immaculate Conception, and next, the Latin cross of the Chapel of Santa +Cruz, whose beautiful fagade lay soft in shadow; the huge arrogant bulk +of the Alcazar loomed squarely before me, hiding half the view; to the +left glittered the slender spire of the Cathedral, holding up in the +pure air that emblem of august resignation, the triple crown of thorns; +then a crowd of cupolas, ending at last near the river-banks with the +sharp angular mass of San Cristobal. The field of vision was filled with +churches and chapels, with the palaces of the king and the monk. Behind +me the waste lands went rolling away untilled to the brown Toledo +mountains. Below, the vigorous current of the Tagus brawled over its +rocky bed, and the distant valley showed in its deep rich green what +vitality there was in those waters if they were only used. + +A quiet, as of a plague-stricken city, lay on Toledo. A few mules wound +up the splendid roads with baskets of vegetables. A few listless +fishermen were preparing their lines. The chimes of sleepy bells floated +softly out on the morning air. They seemed like the requiem of municipal +life and activity slain centuries ago by the crozier and the crown. + +Thank Heaven, that double despotism is wounded to death. As Chesterfield +predicted, before the first muttering of the thunders of '89, "the +trades of king and priest have lost half their value." With the decay of +this unrighteous power, the false, unwholesome activity it fostered has +also disappeared. There must be years of toil and leanness, years +perhaps of struggle and misery, before the new genuine life of the +people springs up from beneath the dead and withered rubbish of temporal +and spiritual tyranny. Freedom is an angel whose blessing is gained by +wrestling. + + + + +THE ESCORIAL + + +The only battle in which Philip II. was ever engaged was that of St. +Quentin, and the only part he took in that memorable fight was to listen +to the thunder of the captains and the shouting afar off, and pray with +great unction and fervor to various saints of his acquaintance and +particularly to St. Lawrence of the Gridiron, who, being the celestial +officer of the day, was supposed to have unlimited authority, and to +whom he was therefore profuse in vows. While Egmont and his stout +Flemings were capturing the Constable Montmorency and cutting his army +in pieces, this young and chivalrous monarch was beating his breast and +pattering his panic-stricken prayers. As soon as the victory was won, +however, he lost his nervousness, and divided the entire credit of it +between himself and his saints. He had his picture painted in full +armor, as he appeared that day, and sent it to his doting spouse, Bloody +Mary of England. He even thought he had gained glory enough, and while +his father, the emperor-monk, was fiercely asking the messenger who +brought the news of victory to Yuste, "Is my son at Paris?" the prudent +Philip was making a treaty of peace, by which his son Don Carlos was to +marry the Princess Elizabeth of France. But Mary obligingly died at this +moment, and the stricken widower thought he needed consolation more than +his boy, and so married the pretty princess himself. + +He always prided himself greatly on the battle of St. Quentin, and +probably soon came to believe he had done yeoman service there. The +childlike credulity of the people is a great temptation to kings. It is +very likely that after the coup-d'etat of December, the trembling puppet +who had sat shivering over his fire in the palace of the Elysee while +Morny and Fleury and St. Arnaud and the rest of the cool gamblers were +playing their last desperate stake on that fatal night, really persuaded +himself that the work was his, and that _he_ had saved society. That the +fly should imagine he is moving the coach is natural enough; but that +the horses, and the wooden lumbering machine, and the passengers should +take it for granted that the light gilded insect is carrying them +all,--there is the true miracle. + +We must confess to a special fancy for Philip II. He was so true a king, +so vain, so superstitious, so mean and cruel, it is probable so great a +king never lived. Nothing could be more royal than the way he +distributed his gratitude for the victory on St. Lawrence's day. To +Count Egmont, whose splendid courage and loyalty gained him the battle, +he gave ignominy and death on the scaffold; and to exhibit a gratitude +to a myth which he was too mean to feel to a man, he built to San +Lorenzo that stupendous mass of granite which is to-day the visible +demonstration of the might and the weakness of Philip and his age. + +He called it the Monastery of San Lorenzo el Real, but the nomenclature +of the great has no authority with the people. It was built on a site +once covered with cinder-heaps from a long abandoned iron-mine, and so +it was called in common speech the Escorial. The royal seat of San +Ildefonso can gain from the general public no higher name than La +Granja, the Farm. The great palace of Catharine de Medici, the home of +three dynasties, is simply the Tuileries, the Tile-fields. You cannot +make people call the White House the Executive Mansion. A merchant named +Pitti built a palace in Florence, and though kings and grand dukes have +inhabited it since, it is still the Pitti. There is nothing so +democratic as language. You may alter a name by trick when force is +unavailing. A noble lord in Segovia, following the custom of the good +old times, once murdered a Jew, and stole his house. It was a pretty +residence, but the skeleton in his closet was that the stupid commons +would not call it anything but "the Jew's house." He killed a few of +them for it, but that did not serve. At last, by advice of his +confessor, he had the facade ornamented with projecting knobs of stucco, +and the work was done. It is called to this day "the knobby house." + +The conscience of Philip did not permit a long delay in the +accomplishment of his vow. Charles V. had charged him in his will to +build a mausoleum for the kings of the Austrian race. He bound the two +obligations in one, and added a third destination to the enormous pile +he contemplated. It should be a palace as well as a monastery and a +royal charnel-house. He chose the most appropriate spot in Spain for the +erection of the most cheerless monument in existence. He had fixed his +capital at Madrid because it was the dreariest town in Spain, and to +envelop himself in a still profounder desolation, he built the Escorial +out of sight of the city, on a bleak, bare hillside, swept by the +glacial gales of the Guadarrama, parched by the vertical suns of summer, +and cursed at all seasons with the curse of barrenness. Before it towers +the great chain of mountains separating Old and New Castile. Behind it +the chilled winds sweep down to the Madrid plateau, over rocky hillocks +and involved ravines,--a scene in which probably no man ever took +pleasure except the royal recluse who chose it for his home. + +John Baptist of Toledo laid the corner-stone on an April day of 1563, +and in the autumn of 1584 John of Herrera looked upon the finished work, +so vast and so gloomy that it lay like an incubus upon the breast of +earth. It is a parallelogram measuring from north to south seven hundred +and forty-four feet, and five hundred and eighty feet from east to west. +It is built, by order of the fantastic bigot, in the form of St. +Lawrence's gridiron, the courts representing the interstices of the +bars, and the towers at the corners sticking helpless in the air like +the legs of the supine implement. It is composed of a clean gray +granite, chiefly in the Doric order, with a severity of facade that +degenerates into poverty, and defrauds the building of the effect its +great bulk merits. The sheer monotonous walls are pierced with eleven +thousand windows, which, though really large enough for the rooms, seem +on that stupendous surface to shrink into musketry loopholes. In the +centre of the parallelogram stands the great church, surmounted by its +soaring dome. All around the principal building is stretched a +circumscribing line of convents, in the same style of doleful +yellowish-gray uniformity, so endless in extent that the inmates might +easily despair of any world beyond them. + +There are few scenes in the world so depressing as that which greets you +as you enter into the wide court before the church, called El Templo. +You are shut finally in by these iron-gray walls. The outside day has +given you up. Your feet slip on the damp flags. An unhealthy fungus +tinges the humid corners with a pallid green. You look in vain for any +trace of human sympathy in those blank walls and that severe facade. +There is a dismal attempt in that direction in the gilded garments and +the painted faces of the colossal prophets and kings that are perched +above the lofty doors. But they do not comfort you; they are tinselled +stones, not statues. + +Entering the vestibule of the church, and looking up, you observe with a +sort of horror that the ceiling is of massive granite and flat. The +sacristan has a story that when Philip saw this ceiling, which forms the +floor of the high choir, he remonstrated against it as too audacious, +and insisted on a strong pillar being built to support it. The architect +complied, but when Philip came to see the improvement he burst into +lamentation, as the enormous column destroyed the effect of the great +altar. The canny architect, who had built the pillar of pasteboard, +removed it with a touch, and his majesty was comforted. Walking forward +to the edge of this shadowy vestibule, you recognize the skill and taste +which presided at this unique and intelligent arrangement of the choir. +If left, as usual, in the body of the church, it would have seriously +impaired that solemn and simple grandeur which distinguishes this above +all other temples. There is nothing to break the effect of the three +great naves, divided by immense square-clustered columns, and surmounted +by the vast dome that rises with all the easy majesty of a mountain more +than three hundred feet from the decent black and white pavement. I know +of nothing so simple and so imposing as this royal chapel, built purely +for the glory of God and with no thought of mercy or consolation for +human infirmity. The frescos of Luca Giordano show the attempt of a +later and degenerate age to enliven with form and color the sombre +dignity of this faultless pile. But there is something in the blue and +vapory pictures which shows that even the unabashed Luca was not free +from the impressive influence of the Escorial. + +A flight of veined marble steps leads to the beautiful retable of the +high altar. The screen, over ninety feet high, cost the Milanese Trezzo +seven years of labor. The pictures illustrative of the life of our Lord +are by Tibaldi and Zuccaro. The gilt bronze tabernacle of Trezzo and +Herrera, which has been likened with the doors of the Baptistery of +Florence as worthy to figure in the architecture of heaven, no longer +exists. It furnished a half hour's amusement to the soldiers of France. +On either side of the high altar are the oratories of the royal family, +and above them are the kneeling effigies of Charles, with his wife, +daughter, and sisters, and Philip with his successive harem of wives. +One of the few luxuries this fierce bigot allowed himself was that of a +new widowhood every few years. There are forty other altars with +pictures good and bad. The best are by the wonderful deaf-mute, +Navarrete, of Logrono, and by Sanchez Coello, the favorite of Philip. + +To the right of the high altar in the transept you will find, if your +tastes, unlike Miss Riderhood's, run in a bony direction, the most +remarkable Reliquary in the world. With the exception perhaps of Cuvier, +Philip could see more in a bone than any man who ever lived. In his long +life of osseous enthusiasm he collected seven thousand four hundred and +twenty-one genuine relics,--whole skeletons, odd shins, teeth, +toe-nails, and skulls of martyrs,--sometimes by a miracle of special +grace getting duplicate skeletons of the same saint. The prime jewels of +this royal collection are the grilled bones of San Lorenzo himself, +bearing dim traces of his sacred gridiron. + +The sacristan will show you also the retable of the miraculous wafer, +which bled when trampled on by Protestant heels at Gorcum in 1525. This +has always been one of the chief treasures of the Spanish crown. The +devil-haunted idiot Charles II. made a sort of idol of it, building it +this superb altar, consecrated "in this miracle of earth to the miracle +of heaven." When the atheist Frenchmen sacked the Escorial and stripped +it of silver and gold, the pious monks thought most of hiding this +wonderful wafer, and when the storm passed by, the booby Ferdinand VII. +restored it with much burning of candles, swinging of censers, and +chiming of bells. Worthless as it is, it has done one good work in the +world. It inspired the altar-picture of Claudio Coello, the last best +work of the last of the great school of Spanish painters. He finished it +just before he died of shame and grief at seeing Giordano, the nimble +Neapolitan, emptying his buckets of paint on the ceiling of the grand +staircase, where St. Lawrence and an army of martyrs go sailing with a +fair wind into glory. + +The great days of art in the Escorial are gone. Once in every nook and +corner it concealed treasures of beauty that the world had nearly +forgotten. The Perla of Raphael hung in the dark sacristy. The Cena of +Titian dropped to pieces in the refectory. The Gloria, which had sunk +into eclipse on the death of Charles V., was hidden here among +unappreciative monks. But on the secularization of the monasteries, +these superb canvases went to swell the riches of the Royal Museum. +There are still enough left here, however, to vindicate the ancient fame +of the collection. They are perhaps more impressive in their beauty and +loneliness than if they were pranking among their kin in the glorious +galleries and perfect light of that enchanted palace of Charles III. The +inexhaustible old man of Cadora has the Prayer on Mount Olivet, an Ecce +Homo, an Adoration of the Magi. Velazquez one of his rare scriptural +pieces, Jacob and his Children. Tintoretto is rather injured at the +Museo by the number and importance of his pictures left in this monkish +twilight; among them is a lovely Esther, and a masterly Presentation of +Christ to the People. Plenty of Giordanos and Bassanos and one or two +by El Greco, with his weird plague-stricken faces, all chalk and +charcoal. A sense of duty will take you into the crypt where the dead +kings are sleeping in brass. This mausoleum, ordered by the great +Charles, was slow in finishing. All of his line had a hand in it down to +Philip IV., who completed it and gathered in the poor relics of royal +mortality from many graves. The key of the vault is the stone where the +priest stands when he elevates the Host in the temple above. The vault +is a graceful octagon about forty feet high, with nearly the same +diameter; the flickering light of your torches shows twenty-six +sarcophagi, some occupied and some empty, filling the niches of the +polished marble. On the right sleep the sovereigns, on the left their +consorts. There is a coffin for Dona Isabel de Bourbon among the kings, +and one for her amiable and lady-like husband among the queens. They +were not lovely in their lives, and in their deaths they shall be +divided. The quaint old church-mouse who showed me the crypt called my +attention to the coffin where Maria Louisa, wife of Charles IV.,--the +lady who so gallantly bestrides her war-horse, in the uniform of a +colonel, in Goya's picture,--coming down those slippery steps with the +sure footing of feverish insanity, during a severe illness, scratched +_Luisa_ with the point of her scissors and marked the sarcophagus for +her own. All there was good of her is interred with her bones. Her +frailties live on in scandalized history. + +Twice, it is said, the coffin of the emperor has been opened by curious +hands,--by Philip IV., who found the corpse of his great ancestor +intact, and observed to the courtier at his elbow, "An honest body, Don +Luis!" and again by the Ministers of State and Fomento in the spring of +1870, who started back aghast when the coffin-lid was lifted and +disclosed the grim face of the Burgess of Ghent, just as Titian painted +him,--the keen, bold face of a world-stealer. + +I do not know if Philip's funeral urn was ever opened. He stayed above +ground too long as it was, and it is probable that people have never +cared to look upon his face again. All that was human had died out of +him years before his actual demise, and death seemed not to consider it +worth while to carry off a vampire. Go into the little apartment where +his last days were passed; a wooden table and book-shelf, one arm-chair +and two stools--the one upholstered with cloth for winter, the other +with tin for summer--on which he rested his gouty leg, and a low chair +for a secretary,--this was all the furniture he used. The rooms are not +larger than cupboards, low and dark. The little oratory where he died +looks out upon the high altar of the Temple. In a living death, as if by +an awful anticipation of the common lot it was ordained that in the +flesh he should know corruption, he lay waiting his summons hourly for +fifty-three days. What tremendous doubts and fears must have assailed +him in that endless agony! He had done more for the Church than any +living man. He was the author of that sublime utterance of uncalculating +bigotry, "Better not reign than reign over heretics." He had pursued +error with fire and sword. He had peopled limbo with myriads of rash +thinkers. He had impoverished his kingdom in Catholic wars. Yet all this +had not sufficed. He lay there like a leper smitten by the hand of the +God he had so zealously served. Even in his mind there was no peace. He +held in his clenched hand his father's crucifix, which Charles had held +in his exultant death at Yuste. Yet in his waking hours he was never +free from the horrible suggestion that he had not done enough for +salvation. He would start in horror from a sleep that was peopled with +shapes from torment. Humanity was avenged at last. + +So powerful is the influence of a great personality that in the Escorial +you can think of no one but Philip II. He lived here only fourteen +years, but every corridor and cloister seems to preserve the souvenir of +his sombre and imperious genius. For two and a half centuries his feeble +successors have trod these granite halls; but they flit through your +mind pale and unsubstantial as dreams. The only tradition they preserved +of their great descent was their magnificence and their bigotry. There +has never been one utterance of liberty or free thought inspired by this +haunted ground. The king has always been absolute here, and the monk has +been the conscience-keeper of the king. The whole life of the Escorial +has been unwholesomely pervaded by a flavor of holy water and burial +vaults. There was enough of the repressive influence of that savage +Spanish piety to spoil the freshness and vigor of a natural life, but +not enough to lead the court and the courtiers to a moral walk and +conversation. It was as profligate a court in reality, with all its +masses and monks, as the gay and atheist circle of the Regent of +Orleans. Even Philip, the Inquisitor King, did not confine his royal +favor to his series of wives. A more reckless and profligate young +prodigal than Don Carlos, the hope of Spain and Rome, it would be hard +to find to-day at Mabille or Cremorne. But he was a deeply religious +lad for all that, and asked absolution from his confessors before +attempting to put in practice his intention of killing his father. +Philip, forewarned, shut him up until he died, in an edifying frame of +mind, and then calmly superintended the funeral arrangements from a +window of the palace. The same mingling of vice and superstition is seen +in the lessening line down to our day. The last true king of the old +school was Philip IV. Amid the ruins of his tumbling kingdom he lived +royally here among his priests and his painters and his ladies. There +was one jealous exigency of Spanish etiquette that made his favor fatal. +The object of his adoration, when his errant fancy strayed to another, +must go into a convent and nevermore be seen of lesser men. Madame +Daunoy, who lodged at court, heard one night an august footstep in the +hall and a kingly rap on the bolted door of a lady of honor. But we are +happy to say she heard also the spirited reply from within, "May your +grace go with God! I do not wish to be a nun!" + +There is little in these frivolous lives that is worth knowing,--the +long inglorious reigns of the dwindling Austrians and the parody of +greater days played by the scions of Bourbon, relieved for a few +creditable years by the heroic struggle of Charles III. against the +hopeless decadence. You may walk for an hour through the dismal line of +drawing-rooms in the cheerless palace that forms the gridiron's handle, +and not a spirit is evoked from memory among all the tapestry and +panelling and gilding. + +The only cheerful room in this granite wilderness is the library, still +in good and careful keeping. A long, beautiful room, two hundred feet of +bookcases, and tasteful frescos by Tibaldi and Carducho, representing +the march of the liberal sciences. Most of the older folios are bound in +vellum, with their gilded edges, on which the title is stamped, turned +to the front. A precious collection of old books and older manuscripts, +useless to the world as the hoard of a miser. Along the wall are hung +the portraits of the Escorial kings and builders. The hall is furnished +with marble and porphyry tables, and elaborate glass cases display some +of the curiosities of the library,--a copy of the Gospels that belonged +to the Emperor Conrad, the Suabian Kurz; a richly illuminated +Apocalypse; a gorgeous missal of Charles V.; a Greek Bible, which once +belonged to Mrs. Phoebus's ancestor Cantacuzene; Persian and Chinese +sacred books; and a Koran, which is said to be the one captured by Don +Juan at Lepanto. Mr. Ford says it is spurious; Mr. Madoz says it is +genuine. The ladies with whom I had the happiness to visit the library +inclined to the latter opinion for two very good reasons,--the book is a +very pretty one, and Mr. Madoz's head is much balder than Mr. Ford's. +Wandering aimlessly through the frescoed cloisters and looking in at all +the open doors, over each of which a cunning little gridiron is inlaid +in the woodwork, we heard the startling and unexpected sound of boyish +voices and laughter. We approached the scene of such agreeable tumult, +and found the theatre of the monastery full of young students rehearsing +a play for the coming holidays. A clever-looking priest was directing +the drama, and one juvenile Thespis was denouncing tyrants and dying for +his country in hexameters of a shrill treble. His friends were +applauding more than was necessary or kind, and flourishing their wooden +swords with much ferocity of action. All that is left of the once +extensive establishment of the monastery is a boys' school, where some +two hundred youths are trained in the humanities, and a college where an +almost equal number are educated for the priesthood. + +So depressing is the effect of the Escorial's gloom and its memories, +that when you issue at last from its massive doors, the trim and +terraced gardens seem gay and heartsome, and the bleak wild scene is +full of comfort. For here at least there is light and air and boundless +space. You have emerged from the twilight of the past into the present +day. The sky above you bends over Paris and Cheyenne. By this light +Darwin is writing, and the merchants are meeting in the Chicago Board of +Trade. Just below you winds the railway which will take you in two hours +to Madrid,--to the city of Philip II., where the nineteenth century has +arrived; where there are five Protestant churches and fifteen hundred +evangelical communicants. Our young crusader, Professor Knapp, holds +night schools and day schools and prayer meetings, with an active +devotion, a practical and American fervor, that is leavening a great +lump of apathy and death. These Anglo-Saxon missionaries have a larger +and more tolerant spirit of propaganda than has been hitherto seen. They +can differ about the best shape for the cup and the platter, but they +use what they find to their hand. They are giving a tangible direction +and purpose to the vague impulse of reform that was stirring, before +they came, in many devout hearts. A little while longer of this state of +freedom and inquiry, and the shock of controversy will come, and Spain +will be brought to life. + +Already the signs are full of promise. The ancient barriers of +superstition have already given way in many places. A Protestant can not +only live in Spain, but, what was once a more important matter, he can +die and be buried there. This is one of the conquests of the revolution. +So delicate has been the susceptibility of the Spanish mind in regard to +the pollution of its soil by heretic corpses that even Charles I. of +England, when he came a-wooing to Spain, could hardly gain permission to +bury his page by night in the garden of the embassy; and in later days +the Prussian Minister was compelled to smuggle his dead child out of the +kingdom among his luggage to give it Christian burial. Even since the +days of September the clergy has fought manfully against giving +sepulture to Protestants; but Rivero, alcalde of Madrid and president of +the Cortes, was not inclined to waste time in dialectics, and sent a +police force to protect the heretic funerals and to arrest any priest +who disturbed them. There is freedom of speech and printing. The +humorous journals are full of blasphemous caricatures that would be +impossible out of a Catholic country, for superstition and blasphemy +always run in couples. It was the Duke de Guise, commanding the pope's +army at Civitella, who cried in his rage at a rain which favored Alva, +"God has turned Spaniard;" like Quashee, who burns his fetish when the +weather is foul. The liberal Spanish papers overflowed with wit at the +proclamation of infallibility. They announced that his holiness was now +going into the lottery business with brilliant prospects of success; +that he could now tell what Father Manterola had done with the thirty +thousand dollars' worth of bulls he sold last year and punctually +neglects to account for, and other levities of the sort, which seemed +greatly relished, and which would have burned the facetious author two +centuries before, and fined and imprisoned him before the fight at +Alcolea. The minister having charge of the public instruction has +promised to present a law for the prohibition of dogmatic doctrine in +the national schools. The law of civil registry and civil marriage, +after a desperate struggle in the Cortes, has gone into operation with +general assent. There is a large party which actively favors the entire +separation of the spiritual from the temporal power, making religion +voluntary, and free, and breaking its long concubinage with the crown. +The old superstition, it is true, still hangs like a malarial fog over +Spain. But it is invaded by flashes and rays of progress. It cannot +resist much longer the sunshine of this tolerant age. + +Far up the mountain-side, in the shade of a cluster of chestnuts, is a +rude block of stone, called the "King's Chair," where Philip used to sit +in silent revery, watching as from an eyry the progress of the enormous +work below. If you go there, you will see the same scene upon which his +basilisk glance reposed,--in a changed world, the same unchanging +scene,--the stricken waste, the shaggy horror of the mountains, the +fixed plain wrinkled like a frozen sea, and in the centre of the perfect +picture the vast chill bulk of that granite pile, rising cold, +colorless, and stupendous, as if carved from an iceberg by the hand of +Northern gnomes. It is the palace of vanished royalty, the temple of a +religion which is dead. There are kings and priests still, and will be +for many coming years. But never again can a power exist which shall +rear to the glory of the sceptre and the cowl a monument like this. It +is a page of history deserving to be well pondered, for it never will be +repeated. The world which Philip ruled from the foot of the Guadarrama +has passed away. A new heaven and a new earth came in with the thunders +of 1776 and 1789. There will be no more Pyramids, no more Versailles, no +more Escoriais. The unpublished fiat has gone forth that man is worth +more than the glory of princes. The better religion of the future has +no need of these massive dungeon-temples of superstition and fear. Yet +there is a store of precious teachings in this mass of stone. It is one +of the results of that mysterious law to which the genius of history has +subjected the caprices of kings, to the end that we might not be left +without a witness of the past for our warning and example,--the law +which induces a judged and sentenced dynasty to build for posterity some +monument of its power, which hastens and commemorates its ruin. By +virtue of this law we read on the plains of Egypt the pride and the fall +of the Pharaohs. Before the fagade of Versailles we see at a glance the +grandeur of the Capetian kings and the necessity of the Revolution. And +the most vivid picture of that fierce and gloomy religion of the +sixteenth century, compounded of a base alloy of worship for an absolute +king and a vengeful God, is to be found in this colossal hermitage in +the flinty heart of the mountains of Castile. + + + + +A MIRACLE PLAY + + +In the windy month of March a sudden gloom falls upon Madrid,--the +reaction after the _folie gaiete_ of the Carnival. The theatres are at +their gayest in February until Prince Carnival and his jolly train +assault the town, and convert the temples of the drama into ball-rooms. +They have not yet arrived at the wonderful expedition and despatch +observed in Paris, where a half hour is enough to convert the grand +opera into the masked ball. The invention of this process of flooring +the orchestra flush with the stage and making a vast dancing-hall out of +both is due to an ingenious courtier of the regency, bearing the great +name of De Bouillon, who got much credit and a pension by it. In Madrid +they take the afternoon leisurely to the transformation, and the +evening's performance is of course sacrificed. So the sock and buskin, +not being adapted to the cancan, yielded with February, and the theatres +were closed finally on Ash Wednesday. + +Going by the pleasant little theatre of Lope de Rueda, in the Calle +Barquillo, I saw the office-doors open, the posters up, and an +unmistakable air of animation among the loungers who mark with a seal so +peculiar the entrance of places of amusement. Struck by this apparent +levity in the midst of the general mortification, I went over to look at +the bills and found the subject announced serious enough for the most +Lenten entertainment,--Los Siete Dolores de Maria,--The Seven Sorrows of +Mary,--the old mediaeval Miracle of the Life of the Saviour. + +This was bringing suddenly home to me the fact that I was really in a +Catholic country. I had never thought of going to Ammergau, and so, when +reading of these shows, I had entertained no more hope of seeing one +than of assisting at an auto-da-fe or a witch-burning. I went to the +box-office to buy seats. But they were all sold. The forestallers had +swept the board. I was never able to determine whether I most pitied or +despised these pests of the theatre. Whenever a popular play is +presented, a dozen ragged and garlic-odorous vagabonds go early in the +day and buy as many of the best places as they can pay for. They hang +about the door of the theatre all day, and generally manage to dispose +of their purchases at an advance. But it happens very often that they +are disappointed; that the play does not draw, or that the evening +threatens rain, and the Spaniard is devoted to his hat. He would keep +out of a revolution if it rained. So that, at the pleasant hour when the +orchestra are giving the last tweak to the key of their fiddles, you may +see these woebegone wretches rushing distractedly from the Piamonte to +the Alcala, offering their tickets at a price which falls rapidly from +double to even, and tumbles headlong to half-price at the first note of +the opening overture. When I see the forestaller luxuriously basking at +the office-door in the warm sunshine, and scornfully refusing to treat +for less than twice the treasurer's figures, I feel a divided +indignation against the nuisance and the management that permits it. But +when in the evening I meet him haggard and feverish, hawking his unsold +places in desperate panic on the sidewalk, I cannot but remember that +probably a half dozen dirty and tawny descendants of Pelayo will eat no +beans to-morrow for those unfortunate tickets, and my wrath melts, and I +buy his crumpled papers, moist with the sweat of anxiety, and add a +slight propina, which I fear will be spent in aguardiente to calm his +shattered nerves. + +This day the sky looked threatening, and my shabby hidalgo listened to +reason, and sold me my places at their price and a _petit verre._ + +As we entered in the evening the play had just begun. The scene was the +interior of the Temple at Jerusalem, rather well done,--two ranges of +superimposed porphyry columns with a good effect of oblique perspective, +which is very common in the Spanish theatres. St. Simeon, in a dress +suspiciously resembling that of the modern bishop, was talking with a +fiery young Hebrew who turns out to be Demas, the Penitent Thief, and +who is destined to play a very noticeable part in the evening's +entertainment. He has received some slight from the government +authorities and does not propose to submit to it. The aged and +cooler-blooded Simeon advises him to do nothing rash. Here at the very +outset is a most characteristic Spanish touch. You are expected to be +interested in Demas, and the only crime which could appeal to the +sympathies of a Castilian crowd would be one committed at the promptings +of injured dignity. + +There is a soft, gentle strain of music played pianissimo by the +orchestra, and, surrounded by a chorus of mothers and maidens, the +Virgin Mother enters with the Divine Child in her arms. The Madonna is a +strapping young girl named Gutierrez, a very clever actress; and the +Child has been bought in the neighboring toy-shop, a most palpable and +cynical wax-doll. The doll is handed to Simeon, and the solemn ceremony +of the Presentation is performed to fine and thoughtful music. St. +Joseph has come in sheepishly by the flies with his inseparable staff +crowned with a garland of lilies, which remain miraculously fresh during +thirty years or so, and kneels at the altar, on the side opposite to +Miss Gutierrez. + +As the music ceases, Simeon starts as from a trance and predicts in a +few rapid couplets the sufferings and the crucifixion of the child. Mary +falls overwhelmed into the arms of her attendants, and Simeon exclaims, +"Most blessed and most unfortunate among women! thy heart is to be +pierced with Seven Sorrows, and this is the first." Demas rushes in and +announces the massacre of the innocents, concluding with the appropriate +reflection, "Perish the kings! always the murderers of the people." This +sentiment is so much to the taste of the gamins of the paraiso that they +vociferously demand an encore; but the Roman soldiers come in and +commence the pleasing task of prodding the dolls in the arms of the +chorus. + +The next act is the Flight into Egypt. The curtain rises on a rocky +ravine with a tinsel torrent in the background and a group of robbers on +the stage. Gestas, the impenitent thief, stands sulky and glum in a +corner, fingering his dagger as you might be sure he would, and +informing himself in a growling soliloquy that his heart is consumed +with envy and hate because he is not captain. The captain, one Issachar, +comes in, a superbly handsome young fellow, named Mario, to my thinking +the first comedian in Spain, dressed in a flashy suit of leopard hides, +and announces the arrival of a stranger. Enters Demas, who says he hates +the world and would fain drink its foul blood. He is made politely +welcome. No! he will be captain or nothing. Issachar laughs scornfully +and says _he_ is in the way of that modest aspiration. But Demas +speedily puts him out of the way with an Albacete knife, and becomes +captain, to the profound disgust of the impenitent Gestas, who exclaims, +just as the profane villains do nowadays on every well-conducted stage, +"Damnation! foiled again!" + +The robbers pick up their idolized leader and pitch him into the tinsel +torrent. This is also extremely satisfactory to the wide-awake young +Arabs of the cock-loft. The bandits disperse, and Demas indulges in some +fifty lines of rhymed reflections, which are interrupted by the approach +of the Holy Family, hotly pursued by the soldiery of Herod. They stop +under a sycamore tree, which instantly, by very clever machinery, bends +down its spreading branches and miraculously hides them from the +bloodthirsty legionaries. These pass on, and Demas leads the saintly +trio by a secret pass over the torrent,--the Mother and Child mounted +upon an ass and St. Joseph trudging on behind with his lily-decked +staff, looking all as if they were on a short leave of absence from +Correggio's picture-frame. + +Demas comes back, calls up his merrymen, and has a battle-royal with the +enraged legionaries, which puts the critics of the gallery into a frenzy +of delight and assures the success of the spectacle. The curtain falls +in a gust of applause, is stormed up again, Demas comes forward and +makes a neat speech, announcing the author. Que salga! roar the +gods,--"Trot him out!" A shabby young cripple hobbles to the front, +leaning upon a crutch, his sallow face flushed with a hectic glow of +pride and pleasure. He also makes a glib speech,--I have never seen a +Spaniard who could not,--disclaiming all credit for himself, but lauding +the sublimity of the acting and the perfection of the scene-painting, +and saying that the memory of this unmerited applause will be forever +engraved upon his humble heart. + +Act third, the Lost Child, or Christ in the Temple. The scene is before +the Temple on a festival day, plenty of chorus-girls, music, and +flowers. Demas and the impenitent Gestas and Barabbas, who, I was +pleased to see, was after all a very good sort of fellow, with no more +malice than you or I, were down in the city on a sort of lark, their +leopard skins left in the mountains and their daggers hid under the +natty costume of the Judaean dandy of the period. Demas and Gestas have +a quarrel, in which Gestas is rather roughly handled, and goes off +growling like every villain, _qui se respecte,--_"I will have +r-revenge." Barabbas proposes to go around to the cider-cellars, but +Demas confides to him that he is enslaved by a dream of a child, who +said to him, "Follow me--to Paradise;" that he had come down to +Jerusalem to seek and find the mysterious infant of his vision. The +jovial Barabbas seems imperfectly impressed by these transcendental +fancies, and at this moment Mary comes in dressed like a Madonna of +Guido Reni, and soon after St. Joseph and his staff. They ask each other +where is the Child,--a scene of alarm and bustle, which ends by the door +of the Temple flying open and discovering, shrined in ineffable light, +Jesus teaching the doctors. + +In the fourth act, Demas meets a beautiful woman by the city gate, in +the loose, graceful dress of the Hetairai, and the most wonderful +luxuriance of black curls I have ever seen falling in dense masses to +her knees. After a conversation of amorous banter, he gives her a +golden chain, which she assumes, well pleased, and gives him her name, +La Magdalena. A motley crowd of street loafers here rushed upon the +scene, and I am sure there was no one of Northern blood in the theatre +that did not shudder for an instant at the startling apparition that +formed the central figure of the group. The world has long ago agreed +upon a typical face and figure for the Saviour of men; it has been +repeated on myriads of canvases and reproduced in thousands of statues, +till there is scarcely a man living that does not have the same image of +the Redeemer in his mind. Well, that image walked quietly upon the +stage, so perfect in make-up that you longed for some error to break the +terrible vraisemblance. I was really relieved when the august appearance +spoke, and I recognized the voice of a young actor named Morales, a +clever light comedian of the Bressant type. + +The Magdalene is soon converted by the preaching of the Nazarene +Prophet, and the scene closes by the triumphant entry into Jerusalem +amid the waving of palm-branches, the strewing of flowers, and "sonorous +metal blowing martial sounds." The pathetic and sublime lament, +"Jerusalem! Jerusalem! thou that killest the prophets!" was delivered +with great 'feeling and power. + +The next act brings us before the judgment-seat of Pontius Pilate. This +act is almost solely horrible. The Magdalene in her garb of penitence +comes in to beg the release of Jesus of Nazareth. Pontius, who is +represented as a gallant old gentleman, says he can refuse nothing to a +lady. The prisoner is dragged in by two ferocious ruffians, who beat and +buffet him with absurd and exaggerated violence. There is nothing more +hideous than the awful concreteness of this show,--the naked +helplessness of the prisoner, his horrible, cringing, overdone humility, +the coarse kicking and cuffing of the deputy sheriffs. The Prophet is +stripped and scourged at the pillar until he drops from exhaustion. He +is dragged anew before Pilate and examined, but his only word is, "Thou +hast said." The scene lasts nearly an hour. The theatre was full of +sobbing women and children. At every fresh brutality I could hear the +weeping spectators say, "Pobre Jesus!" "How wicked they are!" The bulk +of the audience was of people who do not often go to theatres. They +looked upon the revolting scene as a real and living fact. One +hard-featured man near me clenched his fists and cursed the cruel +guards. A pale, delicate-featured girl who was leaning out of her box, +with her brown eyes, dilated with horror, fixed upon the scene, suddenly +shrieked as a Roman soldier struck the unresisting Saviour, and fell +back fainting in the arms of her friends. + +The Nazarene Prophet was condemned at last. Gestas gives evidence +against him, and also delivers Demas to the law, but is himself +denounced, and shares their sentence. The crowd howled with exultation, +and Pilate washed his hands in impotent rage and remorse. The curtain +came down leaving the uncultivated portion of the audience in the frame +of mind in which their ancestors a few centuries earlier would have gone +from the theatre determined to serve God and relieve their feelings by +killing the first Jew they could find. The diversion was all the better, +because safer, if they happened to the good luck of meeting a Hebrew +woman or child. + +The Calle de Amargura--the Street of Bitterness--was the next scene. +First came a long procession of official Romans,--lictors and swordsmen, +and the heralds announcing the day's business. Demas appears, dragged +along with vicious jerks to execution. The Saviour follows, and falls +under the weight of the cross before the footlights. Another long and +dreary scene takes place, of brutalities from the Roman soldiers, the +ringleader of whom is a sanguinary Andalusian ingeniously encased in a +tin barrel, a hundred lines of rhymed sorrow from the Madonna, and a +most curious scene of the Wandering Jew. This worthy, who in defiance of +tradition is called Samuel, is sitting in his doorway watching the show, +when the suffering Christ begs permission to rest a moment on his +threshold. He says churlishly, Anda!--"Begone!" "I will go, but thou +shalt go forever until I come." The Jew's feet begin to twitch +convulsively, as if pulled from under him. He struggles for a moment, +and at last is carried off by his legs, which are moved like those of +the walking dolls with the Greek names. This odd tradition, so utterly +in contradiction with the picture the Scriptures give us of the meek +dignity with which the Redeemer forgave all personal injuries, has taken +a singular hold upon the imaginations of all peoples. Under varying +names,---Ahasuerus, Salathiel, le Juif Errant, der ewige Jude,--his +story is the delight and edification of many lands; and I have met some +worthy people who stoutly insisted that they had read it in the Bible. + +The sinister procession moves on. The audience, which had been somewhat +cheered by the prompt and picturesque punishment inflicted upon the +inhospitable Samuel, was still further exhilarated by the spectacle of +the impenitent traitor Gestas, staggering under an enormous cross, his +eyes and teeth glaring with abject fear, with an athletic Roman haling +him up to Calvary with a new hempen halter. + +A long intermission followed, devoted to putting babies to sleep,--for +there were hundreds of them, wide-eyed and strong-lunged,--to smoking +the hasty cigarette, to discussing the next combination of Prim or the +last scandal in the gay world. The carpenters were busy behind the +scenes building the mountain. When the curtain rose, it was worth +waiting for. It was an admirable scene. A genuine Spanish mountain, +great humpy undulations of rock and sand, gigantic cacti for all +vegetation, a lurid sky behind, but not over-colored. A group of Roman +soldiers in the foreground, in the rear the hill, and the executioners +busily employed in nailing the three victims to their crosses. Demas was +fastened first; then Gestas, who, when undressed for execution, was a +superb model of a youthful Hercules. But the third cross still lay on +the ground; the hammering and disputing and coming and going were +horribly lifelike and real. + +At last the victim is securely nailed to the wood, and the cross is +slowly and clumsily lifted and falls with a shock into its socket. The +soldiers _huzza.,_ the fiend in the tin barrel and another in a tin hat +come down to the footlights and throw dice for the raiment. "Caramba! +curse my luck!" says our friend in the tin case, and the other walks off +with the vestment. + +The Passion begins, and lasts an interminable time. The grouping is +admirable, every shifting of the crowd in the foreground produces a new +and finished picture, with always the same background of the three high +crosses and their agonizing burdens against that lurid sky. The +impenitent Gestas curses and dies; the penitent Demas believes and +receives eternal rest. The Holy Women come in and group themselves in +picturesque despair at the foot of the cross. The awful drama goes on +with no detail omitted,--the thirst the sponge dipped in vinegar, the +cry of desolation, the spear-thrust, the giving up of the ghost. The +stage-lights are lowered. A thick darkness--of crape--comes down over +the sky. Horror falls on the impious multitude, and the scene is +deserted save by the faithful. + +The closing act opens with a fine effect of moon and stars. "Que linda +luna!" sighed a young woman beside me, drying her tears, comforted by +the beauty of the scene. The central cross is bathed in the full +splendor that is denied the others. Joseph of Abarimathea (as he is here +called) comes in with ladders and winding-sheets, and the dead Christ is +taken from the cross. The Descent is managed with singular skill and +genuine artistic feeling. The principal actor, who has been suspended +for an hour in a most painful and constrained posture, has a corpse-like +rigidity and numbness. There is one moment when you can almost imagine +yourself in Antwerp, looking at that sublimest work of Rubens. The +Entombment ends, and the last tableau is of the Mater Dolorosa in the +Solitude. I have rarely seen an effect so simple, and yet so +striking,--the darkened stage, the softened moonlight, the now Holy Rood +spectral and tall against the starry sky, and the Dolorous Mother, alone +in her sublime sorrow, as she will be worshipped and revered for coming +aeons. + +A curious observation is made by all foreigners, of the absence of the +apostles from the drama. They appear from time to time, but merely as +supernumeraries. One would think that the character of Judas was +especially fitted for dramatic use. I spoke of this to a friend, and he +said that formerly the false apostle was introduced in the play, but +that the sight of him so fired the Spanish heart that not only his life, +but the success of the piece was endangered. This reminds one of Mr. A. +Ward's account of a high-handed outrage at "Utiky," where a young +gentleman of good family stove in the wax head of "Jewdas Iscarrit," +characterizing him at the same time as a "pew-serlanimous cuss." + +"To see these Mysteries in their glory," continued my friend, "you +should go into the small towns in the provinces, uncontaminated with +railroads or unbelief. There they last several days The stage is the +town, the Temple scene takes place in the church, the Judgment at the +city hall, and the procession of the Via Crucis moves through all the +principal streets. The leading roles are no joke,--carrying fifty kilos +of wood over the mud and cobble-stones for half a day. The Judas or +Gestas must be paid double for the kicks and cuffs he gets from +tender-hearted spectators,--the curses he accepts willingly as a tribute +to his dramatic ability. His proudest boast in the evening is Querian +matarme,--'They wanted to kill me!' I once saw the hero of the drama +stop before a wine-shop, sweating like rain, and positively swear by the +life of the Devil, he would not carry his gallows a step farther unless +he had a drink. They brought him a bottle of Valdepenas, and he drained +it before resuming his way to Golgotha. Some of us laughed +thoughtlessly, and narrowly escaped the knives of the orthodox ruffians +who followed the procession." + +The most striking fact in this species of exhibition is the evident and +unquestioning faith of the audience. To all foreigners the show is at +first shocking and then tedious; to the good people of Madrid it is a +sermon, full of absolute truth and vivid reality. The class of persons +who attend these spectacles is very different from that which you find +at the Royal Theatre or the Comic Opera. They are sober, serious +bourgeois, who mind their shops and go to mass regularly, and who come +to the theatre only in Lent, when the gay world stays away. They would +not dream of such an indiscretion as reading the Bible. Their doctrinal +education consists of their catechism, the sermons of the curas, and the +traditions of the Church. The miracle of St. Veronica, who, wiping the +brow of the Saviour in the Street of Bitterness, finds his portrait on +her handkerchief, is to them as real and reverend as if it were related +by the evangelist. The spirit of inquiry which has broken so many idols, +and opened such new vistas of thought for the minds of all the world, is +as yet a stranger to Spain. It is the blind and fatal boast of even the +best of Spaniards that their country is a unit in religious faith. Nunca +se disputo en Espana,--"There has never been any discussion in +Spain,"--exclaims proudly an eminent Spanish writer. Spectacles like +that which we have just seen were one of the elements which in a +barbarous and unenlightened age contributed strongly to the +consolidation of that unthinking and ardent faith which has fused the +nation into one torpid and homogeneous mass of superstition. No better +means could have been devised for the purpose. Leaving out of view the +sublime teachings of the large and tolerant morality of Jesus, the +clergy made his personality the sole object of worship and reverence. By +dwelling almost exclusively upon the story of his sufferings, they +excited the emotional nature of the ignorant, and left their intellects +untouched and dormant. They aimed to arouse their sympathies, and when +that was done, to turn their natural resentment against those whom the +Church considered dangerous. To the inflamed and excited worshippers, a +heretic was the enemy of the crucified Saviour, a Jew was his murderer, +a Moor was his reviler. A Protestant wore to their bloodshot eyes the +semblance of the torturer who had mocked and scourged the meek Redeemer, +who had crowned his guileless head with thorns, who had pierced and +slain him. The rack, the gibbet, and the stake were not enough to glut +the pious hate this priestly trickery inspired. It was not enough that +the doubter's life should go out in the blaze of the crackling fagots, +but it must be loaded in eternity with the curses of the faithful. + +Is there not food for earnest thought in the fact that faith in Christ, +which led the Puritans across the sea to found the purest social and +political system which the wit of man has yet evolved from the tangled +problems of time, has dragged this great Spanish people down to a depth +of hopeless apathy, from which it may take long years of civil tumult to +raise them? May we not find the explanation of this strange phenomenon +in the contrast of Catholic unity with Protestant diversity? "Thou that +killest the prophets!"--the system to which this apostrophe can be +applied is doomed. And it matters little who the prophets may be. + + + + +THE CRADLE AND THE GRAVE OF CERVANTES + + +In Rembrandt Peale's picture of the Court of Death a cadaverous shape +lies for judgment at the foot of the throne, touching at either +extremity the waters of Lethe. There is something similar in the history +of the greatest of Spanish writers. No man knew, for more than a century +after the death of Cervantes, the place of his birth and burial. About a +hundred years ago the investigations of Rios and Pellicer established +the claim of Alcala de Henares to be his native city; and last year the +researches of the Spanish Academy have proved conclusively that he is +buried in the Convent of the Trinitarians in Madrid. But the precise +spot where he was born is only indicated by vague tradition; and the +shadowy conjecture that has so long hallowed the chapel and cloisters of +the Calle Cantarranas has never settled upon any one slab of their +pavement. + +It is, however, only the beginning and the end of this most chivalrous +and genial apparition of the sixteenth century that is concealed from +our view. We know where he was christened and where he died. So that +there are sufficiently authentic shrines in Alcala and Madrid to satisfy +the most sceptical pilgrims. + +I went to Alcala one summer day, when the bare fields were brown and dry +in their after-harvest nudity, and the hills that bordered the winding +Henares were drab in the light and purple in the shadow. From a distance +the town is one of the most imposing in Castile. It lies in the midst of +a vast plain by the green water-side, and the land approach is fortified +by a most impressive wall emphasized by sturdy square towers and +flanking bastions. But as you come nearer you see this wall is a +tradition. It is almost in ruins. + +The crenellated towers are good for nothing but to sketch. A short walk +from the station brings you to the gate, which is well defended by a +gang of picturesque beggars, who are old enough to have sat for Murillo, +and revoltingly pitiable enough to be millionaires by this time, if +Castilians had the cowardly habit of sponging out disagreeable +impressions with pennies. At the first charge we rushed in panic into a +tobacco-shop and filled our pockets with maravedis, and thereafter faced +the ragged battalion with calm. + +It is a fine, handsome, and terribly lonesome town. Its streets are +wide, well built, and silent v as avenues in a graveyard. On every hand +there are tall and stately churches, a few palaces, and some two dozen +great monasteries turning their long walls, pierced with jealous grated +windows, to the grass-grown streets. In many quarters there is no sign +of life, no human habitations among these morose and now empty barracks +of a monkish army. Some of them have been turned into military casernes, +and the bright red and blue uniforms of the Spanish officers and +troopers now brighten the cloisters that used to see nothing gayer than +the gowns of cord-girdled friars. A large garrison is always kept here. +The convents are convenient for lodging men and horses. The fields in +the vicinity produce great store of grain and alfalfa,--food for beast +and rider. It is near enough to the capital to use the garrison on any +sudden emergency, such as frequently happens in Peninsular politics. + +The railroad that runs by Alcala has not brought with it any taint of +the nineteenth century. The army is a corrupting influence, but not +modern. The vice that follows the trail of armies, or sprouts, +fungus-like, about the walls of barracks, is as old as war, and links +the present, with its struggle for a better life, to the old mediaeval +world of wrong. These trim fellows in loose trousers and embroidered +jackets are the same race that fought and drank and made prompt love in +Italy and Flanders and butchered the Aztecs in the name of religion +three hundred years ago. They have laid off their helmets and hauberks, +and use the Berdan rifle instead of the Roman spear. But they are the +same careless, idle, dissolute bread-wasters now as then. + +The town has not changed in the least. It has only shrunk a little. You +think sometimes it must be a vacation, and that you will come again when +people return. The little you see of the people is very attractive. +Passing along the desolate streets, you glance in at an open door and +see a most delightful cabinet picture of domestic life. All the doors in +the house are open. You can see through the entry, the front room, into +the cool court beyond, gay with oleanders and vines, where a group of +women half dressed are sewing and spinning and cheering their souls with +gossip. If you enter under pretence of asking a question, you will be +received with grave courtesy, your doubts solved, and they will bid you +go with God, with the quaint frankness of patriarchal times. + +They do not seem to have been spoiled by overmuch travel. Such +impressive and Oriental courtesy could not have survived the trampling +feet of the great army of tourists. On our pilgrim-way to the cradle of +Cervantes we came suddenly upon the superb facade of the university. +This is one of the most exquisite compositions of plateresque in +existence. The entire front of the central body of the building is +covered with rich and tasteful ornamentation. Over the great door is an +enormous escutcheon of the arms of Austria, supported by two finely +carved statues,--on the one side a nearly nude warrior, on the other the +New World as a feather-clad Indian woman. Still above this a fine, bold +group of statuary, representing, with that reverent naivete of early +art, God the Father in the work of creation. Surrounding the whole front +as with a frame, and reaching to the ground on either side, is carved +the knotted cord of the Franciscan monks. No description can convey the +charming impression given by the harmony of proportion and the loving +finish of detail everywhere seen in this beautifully preserved fagade. +While we were admiring it an officer came out of the adjoining cuartel +and walked by us with jingling spurs. I asked him if one could go +inside. He shrugged his shoulders with a Quien sabe? indicating a doubt +as profound as if I had asked him whether chignons were worn in the +moon. He had never thought of anything inside. There was no wine nor +pretty girls there. Why should one want to go in? We entered the cool +vestibule, and were ascending the stairs to the first court, when a +porter came out of his lodge and inquired our errand. We were wandering +barbarians with an eye to the picturesque, and would fain see the +university, if it were not unlawful. He replied, in a hushed and +scholastic tone of voice, and with a succession of confidential winks +that would have inspired confidence in the heart of a Talleyrand, that +if our lordships would give him our cards he had no doubt he could +obtain the required permission from the rector. He showed us into a dim, +claustral-looking anteroom, in which, as I was told by my friend, who +trifles in lost moments with the integral calculus, there were +seventy-two chairs and one microscopic table. The wall was decked with +portraits of the youth of the college, all from the same artist, who +probably went mad from the attempt to make fifty beardless faces look +unlike each other. We sat for some time mourning over his failure, until +the door opened, and not the porter, but the rector himself, a most +courteous and polished gentleman in the black robe and three-cornered +hat of his order, came in and graciously placed himself and the +university at our disposition. We had reason to congratulate ourselves +upon this good fortune. He showed us every nook and corner of the vast +edifice, where the present and the past elbowed each other at every +turn: here the boys' gymnasium, there the tomb of Valles; here the new +patent cocks of the water-pipes, and there the tri-lingual patio where +Alonso Sanchez lectured in Arabic, Greek, and Chaldean, doubtless making +a choice hash of the three; the airy and graceful paraninfo, or hall of +degrees, a masterpiece of Moresque architecture, with a gorgeous +panelled roof, a rich profusion of plaster arabesques, and, _horresco +referens,_ the walls covered with a bright French paper. Our good rector +groaned at this abomination, but said the Gauls had torn away the +glorious carved panelling for firewood in the war of 1808, and the +college was too poor to restore it. His righteous indignation waxed hot +again when we came to the beautiful sculptured pulpit of the chapel, +where all the delicate details are degraded by a thick coating of +whitewash, which in some places has fallen away and shows the gilding of +the time of the Catholic kings. + +There is in this chapel a picture of the Virgin appearing to the great +cardinal whom we call Ximenez and the Spaniards Cisneros, which is +precious for two reasons. The portrait of Ximenez was painted from life +by the nameless artist, who, it is said, came from France for the +purpose, and the face of the Virgin is a portrait of Isabella the +Catholic. It is a good wholesome face, such as you would expect. But the +thin, powerful profile of Ximenez is very striking, with his red hair +and florid tint, his curved beak, and long, nervous lips. He looks not +unlike that superb portrait Raphael has left of Cardinal Medici. + +This university is fragrant with the good fame of Ximenez. In the +principal court there is a fine medallion of the illustrious founder and +protector, as he delighted to be drawn, with a sword in one hand and a +crucifix in the other,--twin brother in genius and fortune of the +soldier-priest of France, the Cardinal-Duke Richelieu. On his gorgeous +sarcophagus you read the arrogant epitaph with which he revenged himself +for the littleness of kings and courtiers:-- + +"Praetextam junxi sacco, galeamque galero, Frater, dux, praesul, +cardineusque pater. Quin, virtute mea junctum est diadema cucullo, Dum +mihi regnanti patuit Gesperia." + +By a happy chance our visit was made in a holiday time, and the students +were all away. It was better that there should be perfect solitude and +silence as we walked through the noble system of buildings and strove to +re-create the student world of Cervantes's time. The chronicle which +mentions the visit of Francis I. to Alcala, when a prisoner in Spain, +says he was received by eleven thousand students. This was only twenty +years before the birth of Cervantes. The world will never see again so +brilliant a throng of ingenuous youth as gathered together in the great +university towns in those years of vivid and impassioned greed for +letters that followed the revival of learning. The romance of Oxford or +Heidelberg or Harvard is tame compared with that electric life of a +new-born world that wrought and flourished in Padua, Paris, and Alcala. +Walking with my long-robed scholarly guide through the still, shadowy +courts, under Renaissance arches and Moorish roofs, hearing him talking +with enthusiasm of the glories of the past and never a word of the +events of the present, in his pure, strong, guttural Castilian, no +living thing in view but an occasional Franciscan gliding under the +graceful arcades, it was not difficult to imagine the scenes of the +intense young life which filled these noble halls in that fresh day of +aspiration and hope, when this Spanish sunlight fell on the marble and +the granite bright and sharp from the chisel of the builder, and the +great Ximenez looked proudly on his perfect work and saw that it was +good. + +The twilight of superstition still hung heavily over Europe. But this +was nevertheless the breaking of dawn, the herald of the fuller day of +investigation and inquiry. + +It was into this rosy morning of the modern world that Cervantes was +ushered in the season of the falling leaves of 1547. He was born to a +life of poverty and struggle and an immortality of fame. His own city +did not know him while he lived, and now is only known through him. +Pilgrims often come from over distant seas to breathe for one day the +air that filled his baby lungs, and to muse among the scenes that shaped +his earliest thoughts. + +We strolled away from the university through the still lanes and squares +to the Calle Mayor, the only thoroughfare of the town that yet retains +some vestige of traffic. It is a fine, long street bordered by stone +arcades, within which are the shops, and without which in the pleasant +afternoon are the rosy and contemplative shopkeepers. It would seem a +pity to disturb their dreamy repose by offering to trade; and in justice +to Castilian taste and feeling I must say that nobody does it. Halfway +down the street a side alley runs to the right, called Calle de +Cervantes, and into this we turned to find the birthplace of the +romancer. On one side was a line of squalid, quaint, gabled houses, on +the other a long garden wall. We walked under the shadow of the latter +and stared at the house-fronts, looking for an inscription we had heard +of. We saw in sunny doorways mothers oiling into obedience the stiff +horse-tail hair of their daughters. By the grated windows we caught +glimpses of the black eyes and nut-brown cheeks of maidens at their +needles. But we saw nothing to show which of these mansions had been +honored by tradition as the residence of Roderick Cervantes. + +A brisk and practical-looking man went past us. + +I asked him where was the house of the poet. He smiled in a superior +sort of way, and pointed to the wall above my head: "There is no such +house. Some people think it once stood here, and they have placed that +stone in the garden-wall to mark the spot. I believe what I see. It is +all child's play anyhow, whether true or false. There is better work to +be done now than to honor Cervantes. He fought for a bigot king, and +died in a monk's hood." + +"You think lightly of a glory of Castile." + +"If we could forget all the glories of Castile it would be better for +us." + +"Puede ser," I assented. "Many thanks. May your grace go with God!" + +"Health and fraternity!" he answered, and moved away with a step full of +energy and dissent. He entered a door under an inscription, "Federal +Republican Club." + +Go your ways, I thought, radical brother. You are not so courteous nor +so learned as the rector. But this Peninsula has need of men like you. +The ages of belief have done their work for good and ill. Let us have +some years of the spirit that denies, and asks for proofs. The power of +the monk is broken, but the work is not yet done. The convents have been +turned into barracks, which is no improvement. The ringing of spurs in +the streets of Alcala is no better than the rustling of the sandalled +friars. If this Republican party of yours cannot do something to free +Spain from the triple curse of crown, crozier, and sabre, then Spain is +in doleful case. They are at last divided, and the first two have been +sorely weakened in detail. The last should be the easiest work. + +The scorn of my radical friend did not prevent my copying the modest +tablet on the wall:-- + +"Here was born Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra, author of Don Quixote. By +his fame and his genius he belongs to the civilized world; by his cradle +to Alcala de Henares." + +There is no doubt of the truth of the latter part of this inscription. +Eight Spanish towns have claimed to have given birth to Cervantes, thus +beating the blind Scian by one town; every one that can show on its +church records the baptism of a child so called has made its claim. Yet +Alcala, who spells his name wrong, calling him Carvantes, is certainly +in the right, as the names of his father, mother, brothers, and sisters +are also given in its records, and all doubt is now removed from the +matter by the discovery of Cervantes's manuscript statement of his +captivity in Algiers and his petition for employment in America, in both +of which he styles himself "Natural de Alcala de Henares." + +Having examined the evidence, we considered ourselves justly entitled to +all the usual emotions in visiting the church of the parish, Santa Maria +la Mayor. It was evening, and from a dozen belfries in the neighborhood +came the soft dreamy chime of silver-throated bells. In the little +square in front of the church a few families sat in silence on the +massive stone benches. A few beggars hurried by, too intent upon getting +home to supper to beg. A rural and a twilight repose lay on everything. +Only in the air, rosy with the level light, flew out and greeted each +other those musical voices of the bells rich with the memories of all +the days of Alcala. The church was not open, but we followed a sacristan +in, and he seemed too feeble-minded to forbid. It is a pretty church, +not large nor imposing, with a look of cosy comfort about it. Through +the darkness the high altar loomed before us, dimly lighted by a few +candles where the sacristans were setting up the properties for the +grand mass of the morrow,--Our Lady of the Snows. There was much talk +and hot discussion as to the placing of the boards and the draperies, +and the image of Our Lady seemed unmoved by words unsuited to her +presence. We know that every vibration of air makes its own impression +on the world of matter. So that the curses of the sacristans at their +work, the prayers of penitents at the altar, the wailing of breaking +hearts bowed on the pavement through many years, are all recorded +mysteriously, in these rocky walls. This church is the illegible history +of the parish. But of all its ringing of bells, and swinging of censers, +and droning of psalms, and putting on and off of goodly raiment, the +only show that consecrates it for the world's pilgrimage is that humble +procession that came on the 9th day of October, in the year of Grace +1547, to baptize Roderick Cervantes's youngest child. There could not be +an humbler christening. Juan Pardo--John Gray--was the sponsor, and the +witnesses were "Baltazar Vazquez, the sacristan, and I who baptized him +and signed with my name," says Mr. Bachelor Serrano, who never dreamed +he was stumbling into fame when he touched that pink face with the holy +water and called the child Miguel. It is my profound conviction that +Juan Pardo brought the baby himself to the church and took it home +again, screaming wrathfully; Neighbor' Pardo feeling a little sheepish +and mentally resolving never to do another good-natured action as long +as he lived. + +As for the neophyte, he could not be blamed for screaming and kicking +against the new existence he was entering, if the instinct of genius +gave him any hint of it. Between the font of St. Mary's and the bier at +St. Ildefonso's there was scarcely an hour of joy waiting him in his +long life, except that which comes from noble and earnest work. + +His youth was passed in the shabby privation of a poor gentleman's +house; his early talents attracted the attention of my Lord Aquaviva, +the papal legate, who took him back to Rome in his service; but the +high-spirited youth soon left the inglorious ease of the cardinal's +house to enlist as a private soldier in the sea-war against the Turk. He +fought bravely at Lepanto, where he was three times wounded and his left +hand crippled. Going home for promotion, loaded with praise and kind +letters from the generous bastard, Don Juan of Austria, the true son of +the Emperor Charles and pretty Barbara Blumberg, he was captured with +his brother by the Moors, and passed five miserable years in slavery, +never for one instant submitting to his lot, but wearying his hostile +fate with constant struggles. He headed a dozen attempts at flight or +insurrection, and yet his thrifty owners would not kill him. They +thought a man who bore letters from a prince, and who continued cock of +his walk through years of servitude, would one day bring a round ransom. +At last the tardy day of his redemption came, but not from the +cold-hearted tyrant he had so nobly served. The matter was presented to +him by Cervantes's comrades, but he would do nothing. So that Don +Roderick sold his estate and his sisters sacrificed their dowry to buy +the freedom of the captive brothers. + +They came back to Spain still young enough to be fond of glory, and +simple-hearted enough to believe in the justice of the great. They +immediately joined the army and served in the war with Portugal. The +elder brother made his way and got some little promotion, but Miguel got +married and discharged, and wrote verses and plays, and took a small +office in Seville, and moved with the Court to Valladolid; and kept his +accounts badly, and was too honest to steal, and so got into jail, and +grew every year poorer and wittier and better; he was a public +amanuensis, a business agent, a sub-tax-gatherer,--anything to keep his +lean larder garnished with scant ammunition against the wolf hunger. In +these few lines you have the pitiful story of the life of the greatest +of Spaniards, up to his return to Madrid in 1606, when he was nearly +sixty years old. + +From this point his history becomes clearer and more connected up to the +time of his death. He lived in the new-built suburb, erected on the site +of the gardens of the Duke of Lerma, first minister and favorite of +Philip III. It was a quarter much affected by artists and men of +letters, and equally so by ecclesiastics. The names of the streets +indicate the traditions of piety and art that still hallow the +neighborhood. Jesus Street leads you into the street of Lope de Vega. +Quevedo and Saint Augustine run side by side. In the same neighborhood +are the streets called Cervantes, Saint Mary, and Saint Joseph, and just +round the corner are the Magdalen and the Love-of-God. The actors and +artists of that day were pious and devout madcaps. They did not abound +in morality, but they had of religion enough and to spare. Many of them +were members of religious orders, and it is this fact which has procured +us such accurate records of their history. All the events in the daily +life of the religious establishments were carefully recorded, and the +manuscript archives of the convents and brotherhoods of that period are +rich in materials for the biographer. + +There was a special reason for the sudden rise of religious brotherhoods +among the laity. The great schism of England had been fully completed +under Elizabeth. The devout heart of Spain was bursting under this +wrong, and they could think of no way to avenge it. They would fain have +roasted the whole heretical island, but the memory of the Armada was +fresh in men's minds, and the great Philip was dead. There were not +enough heretics in Spain to make it worth while to waste time in hunting +them. Philip could say as Narvaez, on his death-bed, said to his +confessor who urged him to forgive his enemies, "Bless your heart, I +have none. I have killed them all." To ease their pious hearts, they +formed confraternities all over Spain, for the worship of the Host. They +called themselves "Unworthy Slaves of the Most Holy Sacrament." These +grew at once very popular in all classes. Artisans rushed in, and wasted +half their working days in processions and meetings. The severe Suarez +de Figueroa speaks savagely of the crowd of Narcissuses and petits +maitres (a word which is delicious in its Spanish dress of petimetres) +who entered the congregations simply to flutter about the processions in +brave raiment, to be admired of the multitude. But there were other more +serious members,--the politicians who joined to stand well with the +bigot court, and the devout believers who found comfort and edification +in worship. Of this latter class was Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra, who +joined the brotherhood in the street of the Olivar in 1609. He was now +sixty-two years old, and somewhat infirm,--a time, as he said, when a +man's salvation is no joke. From this period to the day of his death he +seemed to be laboring, after the fashion of the age, to fortify his +standing in the other world. He adopted the habit of the Franciscans in +Alcala in 1613, and formally professed in the Third Order in 1616, three +weeks before his death. + +There are those who find the mirth and fun of his later works so +inconsistent with these ascetic professions, that they have been led to +believe Cervantes a bit of a hypocrite. But we cannot agree with such. +Literature was at that time a diversion of the great, and the chief aim +of the writer was to amuse. The best opinion of scholars now is that +Rabelais, whose genius illustrated the preceding century, was a man of +serious and severe life, whose gaulish crudeness of style and brilliant +wit have been the cause of all the fables that distort his personal +history. + +No one can read attentively even the Quixote without seeing how powerful +an influence was exerted by his religion even upon the noble and kindly +soul of Cervantes. He was a blind bigot and a devoted royalist, like all +the rest. The mean neglect of the Court never caused his stanch loyalty +to swerve. The expulsion of the Moors, the crowning crime and madness of +the reign of Philip III., found in him a hearty advocate and defender. +_Non facit monachum cucullus,--_it was not his hood and girdle that made +him a monk; he was thoroughly saturated with their spirit before he put +them on. But he was the noblest courtier and the kindliest bigot that +ever flattered or persecuted. + +In 1610, the Count of Lemos, who had in his grand and distant way +patronized the poet, was appointed Viceroy of Naples, and took with him +to his kingdom a brilliant following of Spanish wits and scholars. He +refused the petition of the greatest of them all, however, and to soften +the blow gave him a small pension, which he continued during the rest of +Cervantes's life. It was a mere pittance, a bone thrown to an old hound, +but he took it and gnawed it with a gratitude more generous than the +gift. From this time forth all his works were dedicated to the Lord of +Lemos, and they form a garland more brilliant and enduring than the +crown of the Spains. Only kind words to disguised fairies have ever been +so munificently repaid, as this young noble's pension to the old genius. + +It certainly eased somewhat his declining years. Relieving him from the +necessity of earning his daily crust, it gave him leisure to complete +and bring out in rapid succession the works which have made him +immortal. He had published the first part of Don Quixote in the midst of +his hungry poverty at Valladolid in 1605. He was then fifty-eight, and +all his works that survive are posterior to that date. He built his +monument from the ground up, in his old age. The Persiles and +Sigis-munda, the Exemplary Novels, and that most masterly and perfect +work, the Second Part of Quixote, were written by the flickering glimmer +of a life burnt out. + +It would be incorrect to infer that the scanty dole of his patron +sustained him in comfort. Nothing more clearly proves his straitened +circumstances than his frequent change of lodgings. Old men do not move +for the love of variety. We have traced him through six streets in the +last four years of his life. But a touching fact is that they are all in +the same quarter. It is understood that his natural daughter and only +child, Isabel de Saavedra, entered the Convent of the Trinitarian nuns +in the street of Cantarranas--Singing Frogs--at some date unknown. All +the shifting and changing which Cervantes made in these embarrassed +years are within a small half-circle, whose centre is his grave and the +cell of his child. He fluttered about that little convent like a gaunt +old eagle about the cage that guards his callow young. + +Like Albert Duerer, like Raphael and Van Dyck, he painted his own +portrait at this time with a force and vigor of touch which leaves +little to the imagination. As few people ever read the Exemplary +Novels,--more is the pity,--I will translate this passage from the +Prologue:-- + +"He whom you see there with the aquiline face, chestnut hair, a smooth +and open brow, merry eyes, a nose curved but well proportioned, a beard +of silver which twenty years ago was of gold, long mustaches, a small +mouth, not too full of teeth, seeing he has but six, and these in bad +condition, a form of middle height, a lively color, rather fair than +brown, somewhat round-shouldered and not too light on his feet; this is +the face of the author of Galatea and of Don Quixote de la Mancha, of +him who made the Voyage to Parnassus, and other works which are straying +about without the name of the owner: he is commonly called Miguel de +Cervantes Saavedra." + +There were, after all, compensations in this evening of life. As long as +his dropsy would let him, he climbed the hilly street of the Olivar to +say his prayers in the little oratory. He passed many a cheerful hour of +gossip with Mother Francisca Romero, the independent superior of the +Trinitarian Convent, until the time when the Supreme Council, jealous of +the freedom of the good lady's life, walled up the door which led from +her house to her convent and cut her off from her nuns. He sometimes +dropped into the studios of Carducho and Caxes, and one of them made a +sketch of him one fortunate day. He was friends with many of the +easy-going Bohemians who swarmed in the quarter,--Cristobal de Mesa, +Quevedo, and Mendoza, whose writings, Don Miguel says, are distinguished +by the absence of all that would bring a "blush to the cheek of a young +person,"-- + +"Por graves, puros, castos y excelentes." + +In the same street where Cervantes lived and died, the great Lope de +Vega passed his edifying old age. This phenomenon of incredible +fecundity is one of the mysteries of that time. Few men of letters have +ever won so marvellous a success in their own lives, few have been so +little read after death. The inscription on Lope's house records that he +is the author of two thousand comedies and twenty-one million of verses. +Making all possible deductions for Spanish exaggeration, it must still +be admitted that his activity and fertility of genius were prodigious. +In those days a play was rarely acted more than two or three times, and +he wrote nearly all that were produced in Spain. He had driven all +competitors from the scene. Cervantes, when he published his collection +of plays, admitted the impossibility of getting a hearing in the theatre +while this "monster of nature" existed. There was a courteous +acquaintance between the two great poets. They sometimes wrote sonnets +to each other, and often met in the same oratories. But a grand seigneur +like Frey Lope could not afford to be intimate with a shabby genius like +brother Miguel. In his inmost heart he thought Don Quixote rather low, +and wondered what people could see in it. Cervantes, recognizing the +great gifts of De Vega, and, generously giving him his full meed of +praise, saw with clearer insight than any man of his time that this +deluge of prodigal and facile genius would desolate rather than fructify +the drama of Spain. What a contrast in character and destiny between our +dilapidated poet and his brilliant neighbor across the way! The one +rich, magnificent, the poet of princes and a prince among poets, the +"Phoenix of Spanish Genius," in whose ashes there is no flame of +resurrection; the other, hounded through life by unmerciful disaster, +and using the brief respite of age to achieve an enduring renown; the +one, with his twenty millions of verses, has a great name in the history +of literature; but the other, with his volume you can carry in your +pocket, has caused the world to call the Castilian tongue the language +of Cervantes. We will not decide which lot is the more enviable. But it +seems a poet must choose. We have the high authority of Sancho for +saying,-- + + "Para dar y tener + Seso ha menester." + + He is a bright boy who can eat his cake and have it. + +In some incidents of the closing scenes of these memorable lives there +is a curious parallelism. Lope de Vega and Cervantes lived and died in +the same street, now called the Calle de Cervantes, and were buried in +the same convent of the street now called Calle de Lope de Vega. In this +convent each had placed a beloved daughter, the fruit of an early and +unlawful passion. Isabel de Saavedra, the child of sin and poverty, was +so ignorant she could not sign her name; while Lope's daughter, the +lovely and gifted Marcela de Carpio, was rich in the genius of her +father and the beauty of her mother, the high-born Maria de Lujan. +Cervantes's child glided from obscurity to oblivion no one knew when, +and the name she assumed with her spiritual vows is lost to tradition. +But the mystic espousals of the sister Marcela de San Felix to the +eldest son of God--the audacious phrase is of the father and priest Frey +Lope--were celebrated with princely pomp and luxury; grandees of Spain +were her sponsors; the streets were invaded with carriages from the +palace, the verses of the dramatist were sung in the service by the +Court tenor Florian, called the "Canary of Heaven;" and the event +celebrated in endless rhymes by the genteel poets of the period. + +Rarely has a lovelier sacrifice been offered on the altar of +superstition. The father, who had been married twice before he entered +the priesthood, and who had seen the folly of errant loves without +number, twitters in the most innocent way about the beauty and the charm +of his child, without one thought of the crime of quenching in the gloom +of the cloister the light of that rich young life. After the lapse of +more than two centuries we know better than he what the world lost by +that lifelong imprisonment. The Marquis of Mo-lins, director of the +Spanish Academy, was shown by the ladies of the convent in this year of +1870 a volume of manuscript poems from the hand of Sor Marcela, which +prove her to have been one of the most vigorous and original poets of +the time. They are chiefly mystical and ecstatic, and full of the +refined and spiritual voluptuousness of a devout young heart whose +pulsations had never learned to beat for earthly objects. M. de Molins +is preparing a volume of these manuscripts; but I am glad to present one +of the seguidillas here, as an illustration of the tender and ardent +fantasies of virginal passion this Christian Sappho embroidered upon the +theme of her wasted prayers:-- + + Let them say to my Lover + That here I lie! + The thing of his pleasure, + His slave am I. + + Say that I seek him + Only for love, + And welcome are tortures + My passion to prove. + + Love giving gifts + Is suspicious and cold; + I have _all,_ my Beloved, + When thee I hold. + + Hope and devotion + The good may gain, + I am but worthy + Of passion and pain. + + So noble a Lord + None serves in vain,-- + For the pay of my love + Is my love's sweet pain. + + I love thee, to love thee, + No more I desire, + By faith is nourished + My love's strong fire. + + I kiss thy hands + When I feel their blows, + In the place of caresses + Thou givest me woes. + + But in thy chastising + Is joy and peace, + O Master and Love, + Let thy blows not cease! + + Thy beauty, Beloved, + With scorn is rife! + But I know that thou lovest me, + Better than life. + + And because thou lovest me, + Lover of mine, + Death can but make me + Utterly thine! + + I die with longing + Thy face to see; + Ah! sweet is the anguish + Of death to me! + +This is a long digression, but it will be forgiven by those who feel how +much of beautiful and pathetic there is in the memory of this mute +nightingale dying with her passionate music all unheard in the silence +and shadows. It is to me the most purely poetic association that clings +about the grave of Cervantes. + +This vein of mysticism in religion has been made popular by the recent +canonization of Saint Theresa, the ecstatic nun of Avila. In the +ceremonies that celebrated this event there were three prizes awarded +for odes to the new saint. Lope de Vega was chairman of the committee of +award, and Cervantes was one of the competitors. The prizes it must be +admitted were very tempting: first, a silver pitcher; second, eight +yards of camlet; and third, a pair of silk stockings. We hope +Cervantes's poem was not the best. We would rather see him carry home +the stuff for a new cloak and pourpoint, or even those very attractive +silk stockings for his shrunk shank, than that silver pitcher which he +was too Castilian ever to turn to any sensible use. The poems are +published in a compendium of the time, without indicating the successful +ones; and that of Cervantes contained these lines, which would seem +hazardous in this colder age, but which then were greatly admired:-- + + "Breaking all bolts and bars, + Comes the Divine One, sailing from the stars, + Full in thy sight to dwell: + And those who seek him, shortening the road, + Come to thy blest abode, + And find him in thy heart or in thy cell." + +The anti-climax is the poet's, and not mine. + +He knew he was nearing his end, but worked desperately to retrieve the +lost years of his youth, and leave the world some testimony of his +powers. He was able to finish and publish the Second Part of Quixote, +and to give the last touches of the file to his favorite work, the long +pondered and cherished Persiles. This, he assures Count Lemos, will be +either the best or the worst work ever produced by mortal man, and he +quickly adds that it will not be the worst. The terrible disease gains +upon him, laying its cold hand on his heart. He feels the pulsations +growing slower, but bates no jot of his cheerful philosophy. "With one +foot in the stirrup," he writes a last farewell of noble gratitude to +the viceroy of Naples. He makes his will, commanding that his body be +laid in the Convent of the Trinitarians. He had fixed his departure for +Sunday, the 17th of April, but waited six days for Shakespeare, and the +two greatest souls of that age went into the unknown together, on the +23d of April, 1616. + +The burial of Cervantes was as humble as his christening. His bier was +borne on the shoulders of four brethren of his order. The upper half of +the coffin-lid was open and displayed the sharpened features to the few +who cared to see them: his right hand grasped a crucifix with the grip +of a soldier. Behind the grating was a sobbing nun whose name in the +world was Isabel de Saavedra. But there was no scenic effort or display, +such as a few years later in that same spot witnessed the laying away of +the mortal part of Vega-Carpio. This is the last of Cervantes upon +earth. He had fought a good fight. A long life had been devoted to his +country's service. In his youth he had poured out his blood, and dragged +the chains of captivity. In his age he had accomplished a work which +folds in with Spanish fame the orb of the world. But he was laid in his +grave like a pauper, and the spot where he lay was quickly forgotten. At +that very hour a vast multitude was assisting at what the polished +academician calls a "more solemn ceremony," the bearing of the Virgin of +the Atocha to the Convent of San Domingo el Real, to see if peradventure +pleased by the airing, she would send rain to the parching fields. + +The world speedily did justice to his name. Even before his death it had +begun. The gentlemen of the French embassy who came to Madrid in 1615 to +arrange the royal marriages asked the chaplain of the Archbishop of +Toledo in his first visit many questions of Miguel Cervantes. The +chaplain happened to be a friend of the poet, and so replied, "I know +him. He is old, a soldier, a gentleman, and poor." At which they +wondered greatly. But after a while, when the whole civilized world had +trans-lated and knew the Quixote by heart, the Spaniards began to be +proud of the genius they had neglected and despised. They quote with a +certain fatuity the eulogy of Montesquieu, who says it is the only book +they have; "a proposition" which Navarrete considers "inexact," and we +agree with Navarrete. He has written a good book himself. The Spaniards +have very frankly accepted the judgment of the world, and although they +do not read Cervantes much, they admire him greatly, and talk about him +more than is amusing. The Spanish Academy has set up a pretty mural +tablet on the facade of the convent which shelters the tired bones of +the unlucky immortal, enjoying now their first and only repose. In the +Plaza of the Cortes a fine bronze statue stands facing the Prado, +catching on his chiselled curls and forehead the first rays of morning +that leap over the hill of the Retiro. It is a well-poised, energetic, +chivalrous figure, and Mr. Ger-mond de Lavigne has criticised it as +having more of the sabreur than the savant. The objection does not seem +well founded. It is not pleasant for the world to be continually +reminded of its meannesses. We do not want to see Cervantes's days of +poverty and struggle eternized in statues. We know that he always looked +back with fondness on his campaigning days, and even in his decrepit age +he called himself a soldier. If there were any period in that troubled +history that could be called happy, surely it was the time when he had +youth and valor and hope as the companions of his toil. It would have +been a precious consolation to his cheerless age to dream that he could +stand in bronze, as we hope he may stand for centuries, in the +unchanging bloom of manhood, with the cloak and sword of a gentleman and +soldier, bathing his Olympian brow forever in the light of all the +mornings, and gazing, at evening, at the rosy reflex flushing the +east,--the memory of the day and the promise of the dawn. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Castilian Days, by John Hay + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CASTILIAN DAYS *** + +***** This file should be named 7470.txt or 7470.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/7/4/7/7470/ + +Produced by Eric Eldred + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: Castilian Days + +Author: John Hay + +Release Date: February, 2005 [EBook #7470] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on May 5, 2003] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CASTILIAN DAYS *** + + + + +Produced by Eric Eldred + + + + + +CASTILIAN DAYS + +BY JOHN HAY + + +Published November 1903 + + + + +PUBLISHERS' NOTE + + +In this Holiday Edition of _Castilian Days_ it has been thought +advisable to omit a few chapters that appeared in the original edition. +These chapters were less descriptive than the rest of the book, and not +so rich in the picturesque material which the art of the illustrator +demands. Otherwise, the text is reprinted without change. The +illustrations are the fruit of a special visit which Mr. Pennell has +recently made to Castile for this purpose. + +BOSTON, AUTUMN, 1903 + + + + +CONTENTS + + +MADRID AL FRESCO + +SPANISH LIVING AND DYING + +INFLUENCE OF TRADITION IN SPANISH LIFE + +TAUROMACHY + +RED-LETTER DAYS + +AN HOUR WITH THE PAINTERS + +A CASTLE IN THE AIR + +THE CITY OF THE VISIGOTHS + +THE ESCORIAL + +A MIRACLE PLAY + +THE CRADLE AND THE GRAVE OF CERVANTES + + + + +MADRID AL FRESCO + + +Madrid is a capital with malice aforethought. Usually the seat of +government is established in some important town from the force of +circumstances. Some cities have an attraction too powerful for the court +to resist. There is no capital of England possible but London. Paris is +the heart of France. Rome is the predestined capital of Italy in spite +of the wandering flirtations its varying governments in different +centuries have carried on with Ravenna, or Naples, or Florence. You can +imagine no Residenz for Austria but the Kaiserstadt,--the gemuthlich +Wien. But there are other capitals where men have arranged things and +consequently bungled them. The great Czar Peter slapped his imperial +court down on the marshy shore of the Neva, where he could look westward +into civilization and watch with the jealous eye of an intelligent +barbarian the doings of his betters. Washington is another specimen of +the cold-blooded handiwork of the capital builders. We shall think +nothing less of the _clarum et venerabile nomen_ of its founder if we +admit he was human, and his wishing the seat of government nearer to +Mount Vernon than Mount Washington sufficiently proves this. But Madrid +more plainly than any other capital shows the traces of having been set +down and properly brought up by the strong hand of a paternal +government; and like children with whom the same regimen has been +followed, it presents in its maturity a curious mixture of lawlessness +and insipidity. + +Its greatness was thrust upon it by Philip II. Some premonitory symptoms +of the dangerous honor that awaited it had been seen in preceding +reigns. Ferdinand and Isabella occasionally set up their pilgrim +tabernacle on the declivity that overhangs the Manzanares. Charles V. +found the thin, fine air comforting to his gouty articulations. But +Philip II. made it his court. It seems hard to conceive how a king who +had his choice of Lisbon, with its glorious harbor and unequalled +communications; Seville, with its delicious climate and natural beauty; +and Salamanca and Toledo, with their wealth of tradition, splendor of +architecture, and renown of learning, should have chosen this barren +mountain for his home, and the seat of his empire. But when we know this +monkish king we wonder no longer. He chose Madrid simply because it was +cheerless and bare and of ophthalmic ugliness. The royal kill-joy +delighted in having the dreariest capital on earth. After a while there +seemed to him too much life and humanity about Madrid, and he built the +Escorial, the grandest ideal of majesty and ennui that the world has +ever seen. This vast mass of granite has somehow acted as an anchor that +has held the capital fast moored at Madrid through all succeeding years. + +It was a dreary and somewhat shabby court for many reigns. The great +kings who started the Austrian dynasty were too busy in their world +conquest to pay much attention to beautifying Madrid, and their weak +successors, sunk in ignoble pleasures, had not energy enough to indulge +the royal folly of building. When the Bourbons came down from France +there was a little flurry of construction under Philip V., but he never +finished his palace in the Plaza del Oriente, and was soon absorbed in +constructing his castle in cloud-land on the heights of La Granja. The +only real ruler the Bourbons ever gave to Spain was Charles III., and to +him Madrid owes all that it has of architecture and civic improvement. +Seconded by his able and liberal minister, Count Aranda, who was +educated abroad, and so free from the trammels of Spanish ignorance and +superstition, he rapidly changed the ignoble town into something like a +city. The greater portion of the public buildings date from this active +and beneficent reign. It was he who laid out the walks and promenades +which give to Madrid almost its only outward attraction. The Picture +Gallery, which is the shrine of all pilgrims of taste, was built by him +for a Museum of Natural Science. In nearly all that a stranger cares to +see, Madrid is not an older city than Boston. + +There is consequently no glory of tradition here. There are no +cathedrals. There are no ruins. There is none of that mysterious and +haunting memory that peoples the air with spectres in quiet towns like +Ravenna and Nuremberg. And there is little of that vast movement of +humanity that possesses and bewilders you in San Francisco and New York. +Madrid is larger than Chicago; but Chicago is a great city and Madrid a +great village. The pulsations of life in the two places resemble each +other no more than the beating of Dexter's heart on the home-stretch is +like the rising and falling of an oozy tide in a marshy inlet. + +There is nothing indigenous in Madrid. There is no marked local color. +It is a city of Castile, but not a Castilian city, like Toledo, which +girds its graceful waist with the golden Tagus, or like Segovia, +fastened to its rock in hopeless shipwreck. + +But it is not for this reason destitute of an interest of its own. By +reason of its exceptional history and character it is the best point in +Spain to study Spanish life. It has no distinctive traits itself, but it +is a patchwork of all Spain. Every province of the Peninsula sends a +contingent to its population. The Gallicians hew its wood and draw its +water; the Asturian women nurse its babies at their deep bosoms, and +fill the promenades with their brilliant costumes; the Valentians carpet +its halls and quench its thirst with orgeat of chufas; in every street +you shall see the red bonnet and sandalled feet of the Catalan; in every +cafe, the shaven face and rat-tail chignon of the Majo of Andalusia. If +it have no character of its own, it is a mirror where all the faces of +the Peninsula may sometimes be seen. It is like the mockingbird of the +West, that has no song of its own, and yet makes the woods ring with +every note it has ever heard. + +Though Madrid gives a picture in little of all Spain, it is not all +Spanish. It has a large foreign population. Not only its immediate +neighbors, the French, are here in great numbers,--conquering so far +their repugnance to emigration, and living as gayly as possible in the +midst of traditional hatred,--but there are also many Germans and +English in business here, and a few stray Yankees have pitched their +tents, to reinforce the teeth of the Dons, and to sell them ploughs and +sewing-machines. Its railroads have waked it up to a new life, and the +Revolution has set free the thought of its people to an extent which +would have been hardly credible a few years ago. Its streets swarm with +newsboys and strangers,--the agencies that are to bring its people into +the movement of the age. + +It has a superb opera-house, which might as well be in Naples, for all +the national character it has; the court theatre, where not a word of +Cas-tilian is ever heard, nor a strain of Spanish music. Even +cosmopolite Paris has her grand opera sung in French, and easy-going +Vienna insists that Don Juan shall make love in German. The champagny +strains of Offenbach are heard in every town of Spain oftener than the +ballads of the country. In Madrid there are more _pilluelos_ who whistle +_Bu qui s'avance_ than the Hymn of Riego. The Cancan has taken its place +on the boards of every stage in the city, apparently to stay; and the +exquisite jota and cachucha are giving way to the bestialities of the +casino cadet. It is useless perhaps to fight against that hideous orgie +of vulgar Menads which in these late years has swept over all nations, +and stung the loose world into a tarantula dance from the Golden Horn to +the Golden Gate. It must have its day and go out; and when it has +passed, perhaps we may see that it was not so utterly causeless and +irrational as it seemed; but that, as a young American poet has +impressively said, "Paris was proclaiming to the world in it somewhat of +the pent-up fire and fury of her nature, the bitterness of her heart, +the fierceness of her protest against spiritual and political +repression. It is an execration in rhythm,--a dance of fiends, which +Paris has invented to express in license what she lacks in liberty." + +This diluted European, rather than Spanish, spirit may be seen in most +of the amusements of the politer world of Madrid. They have classical +concerts in the circuses and popular music in the open air. The theatres +play translations of French plays, which are pretty good when they are +in prose, and pretty dismal when they are turned into verse, as is more +frequent, for the Spanish mind delights in the jingle of rhyme. The fine +old Spanish drama is vanishing day by day. The masterpieces of Lope and +Calderon, which inspired all subsequent playwriting in Europe, have sunk +almost utterly into oblivion. The stage is flooded with the washings of +the Boulevards. Bad as the translations are, the imitations are worse. +The original plays produced by the geniuses of the Spanish Academy, for +which they are crowned and sonneted and pensioned, are of the kind upon +which we are told that gods and men and columns look austerely. + +This infection of foreign manners has completely gained and now controls +what is called the best society of Madrid. A soiree in this circle is +like an evening in the corresponding grade of position in Paris or +Petersburg or New York in all external characteristics. The toilets are +by Worth; the beauties are coiffed by the deft fingers of Parisian +tiring-women; the men wear the penitential garb of Poole; the music is +by Gounod and Verdi; Strauss inspires the rushing waltzes, and the +married people walk through the quadrilles to the measures of Blue Beard +and Fair Helen, so suggestive of conjugal rights and duties. As for the +suppers, the trail of the Neapolitan serpent is over them all. Honest +eating is a lost art among the effete denizens of the Old World. +Tantalizing ices, crisped shapes of baked nothing, arid sandwiches, and +the feeblest of sugary punch, are the only supports exhausted nature +receives for the shock of the cotillon. I remember the stern reply of a +friend of mine when I asked him to go with me to a brilliant +reception,--"No! Man liveth not by biscuit-glace alone!" His heart was +heavy for the steamed cherry-stones of Harvey and the stewed terrapin of +Augustin. + +The speech of the gay world has almost ceased to be national. Every one +speaks French sufficiently for all social requirements. It is sometimes +to be doubted whether this constant use of a foreign language in +official and diplomatic circles is a cause or effect of paucity of +ideas. It is impossible for any one to use another tongue with the ease +and grace with which he could use his own. You know how tiresome the +most charming foreigners are when they speak English. A fetter-dance is +always more curious than graceful. Yet one who has nothing to say can +say it better in a foreign language. If you must speak nothing but +phrases, Ollendorff's are as good as any one's. Where there are a dozen +people all speaking French equally badly, each one imagines there is a +certain elegance in the hackneyed forms. I know of no other way of +accounting for the fact that clever people seem stupid and stupid people +clever when they speak French. This facile language thus becomes the +missionary of mental equality,--the principles of '89 applied to +conversation. All men are equal before the phrase-book. + +But this is hypercritical and ungrateful. We do not go to balls to hear +sermons nor discuss the origin of matter. If the young grandees of Spain +are rather weaker in the parapet than is allowed in the nineteenth +century, if the old boys are more frivolous than is becoming to age, and +both more ignorant of the day's doings than is consistent with even +their social responsibilities, in compensation the women of this circle +are as pretty and amiable as it is possible to be in a fallen world. The +foreigner never forgets those piquant, _mutines_ faces of Andalusia and +those dreamy eyes of Malaga,--the black masses of Moorish hair and the +blond glory of those graceful heads that trace their descent from Gothic +demigods. They were not very learned nor very witty, but they were +knowing enough to trouble the soundest sleep. Their voices could +interpret the sublimest ideas of Mendelssohn. They knew sufficiently of +lines and colors to dress themselves charmingly at small cost, and their +little feet were well enough educated to bear them over the polished +floor of a ball-room as lightly as swallows' wings. The flirting of +their intelligent fans, the flashing of those quick smiles where eyes, +teeth, and lips all did their dazzling duty, and the satin twinkling of +those neat boots in the waltz, are harder to forget than things better +worth remembering. + +Since the beginning of the Revolutionary regime there have been serious +schisms and heart-burnings in the gay world. The people of the old +situation assumed that the people of the new were rebels and traitors, +and stopped breaking bread with them. But in spite of this the palace +and the ministry of war were gay enough,--for Madrid is a city of +office-holders, and the White House is always easy to fill, even if two +thirds of the Senate is uncongenial. The principal fortress of the post +was the palace of the spirituelle and hospitable lady whose society name +is Duchess of Penaranda, but who is better known as the mother of the +Empress of the French. Her salon was the weekly rendezvous of the +irreconcilable adherents of the House of Bourbon, and the aristocratic +beauty that gathered there was too powerful a seduction even for the +young and hopeful partisans of the powers that be. There was nothing +exclusive about this elegant hospitality. Beauty and good manners have +always been a passport there. I have seen a proconsul of Prim talking +with a Carlist leader, and a fiery young democrat dancing with a +countess of Castile. + +But there is another phase of society in Madrid which is altogether +pleasing,--far from the domain of politics or public affairs, where +there is no pretension or luxury or conspiracy,--the old-fashioned +Tertulias of Spain. There is nowhere a kindlier and more unaffected +sociableness. The leading families of each little circle have one +evening a week on which they remain at home. Nearly all their friends +come in on that evening. There is conversation and music and dancing. +The young girls gather together in little groups,--not confined under +the jealous guard of their mothers or chaperons,--and chatter of the +momentous events of the week--their dresses, their beaux, and their +books. Around these compact formations of loveliness skirmish light +bodies of the male enemy, but rarely effect a lodgment. A word or a +smile is momently thrown out to meet the advance; but the long, +desperate battle of flirtation, which so often takes place in America in +discreet corners and outlying boudoirs, is never seen in this +well-organized society. The mothers in Israel are ranged for the evening +around the walls in comfortable chairs, which they never leave; and the +colonels and generals and chiefs of administration, who form the bulk of +all Madrid gatherings, are gravely smoking in the library or playing +interminable games of tresillon, seasoned with temperate denunciations +of the follies of the time. + +Nothing can be more engaging than the tone of perfect ease and cordial +courtesy which pervades these family festivals. It is here that the +Spanish character is seen in its most attractive light. Nearly everybody +knows French, but it is never spoken. The exquisite Castilian, softened +by its graceful diminutives into a rival of the Italian in tender +melody, is the only medium of conversation; it is rare that a stranger' +is seen, but if he is, he must learn Spanish or be a wet blanket +forever. + +You will often meet, in persons of wealth and distinction, an easy +degenerate accent in Spanish, strangely at variance with their elegance +and culture. These are Creoles of the Antilles, and they form one of the +most valued and popular elements of society in the capital. There is a +gallantry and dash about the men, and an intelligence and independence +about the women, that distinguish them from their cousins of the +Peninsula. The American element has recently grown very prominent in the +political and social world. Admiral Topete is a Mexican. His wife is one +of the distinguished Cuban family of Arrieta. General Prim married a +Mexican heiress. The magnificent Duchess de la Torre, wife of the Regent +Serrano, is a Cuban born and bred. + +In one particular Madrid is unique among capitals,--it has no suburbs. +It lies in a desolate table-land in the windy waste of New Castile; on +the north the snowy Guadarrama chills its breezes, and on every other +side the tawny landscape stretches away in dwarfish hills and shallow +ravines barren of shrub or tree, until distance fuses the vast steppes +into one drab plain, which melts in the hazy verge of the warm horizon. +There are no villages sprinkled in the environs to lure the Madrilenos +out of their walls for a holiday. Those delicious picnics that break +with such enchanting freshness and variety the steady course of life in +other capitals cannot here exist. No Parisian loves _la bonne ville_ so +much that he does not call those the happiest of days on which he +deserts her for a row at Asnieres, a donkey-ride at Enghien, or a +bird-like dinner in the vast chestnuts of Sceaux. "There is only one +Kaiserstadt," sings the loyal Kerl of Vienna, but he shakes the dust of +the Graben from his feet on holiday mornings, and makes his merry +pilgrimage to the lordly Schoen-brunn or the heartsome Dornbach, or the +wooded eyry of the Kahlenberg. What would white-bait be if not eaten at +Greenwich? What would life be in the great cities without the knowledge +that just outside, an hour away from the toil and dust and struggle of +this money-getting world, there are green fields, and whispering +forests, and verdurous nooks of breezy shadow by the side of brooks +where the white pebbles shine through the mottled stream,--where you +find great pied pan-sies under your hands, and catch the black beady +eyes of orioles watching you from the thickets, and through the lush +leafage over you see patches of sky flecked with thin clouds that sail +so lazily you cannot be sure if the blue or the white is moving? +Existence without these luxuries would be very much like life in Madrid. + +Yet it is not so dismal as it might seem. The Grande Duchesse of +Gerolstein, the cheeriest moralist who ever occupied a throne, announces +just before the curtain falls, "Quand on n'a pas ce qu'on aime, il faut +aimer ce qu'on a." But how much easier it is to love what you have when +you never imagined anything better! The bulk of the good people of +Madrid have never left their natal city. If they have been, for their +sins, some day to Val-lecas or Carabanchel or any other of the dusty +villages that bake and shiver on the arid plains around them, they give +fervid thanks on returning alive, and never wish to go again. They +shudder when they hear of the summer excursions of other populations, +and commiserate them profoundly for living in a place they are so +anxious to leave. A lovely girl of Madrid once said to me she never +wished to travel,--some people who had been to France preferred Paris to +Madrid; as if that were an inexplicable insanity by which their +wanderings had been punished. The indolent incuriousness of the Spaniard +accepts the utter isolation of his city as rather an advantage. It saves +him the trouble of making up his mind where to go. _Vamonos al Prado!_ +or, as Browning says,-- + + "Let's to the Prado and make the most of time." + +The people of Madrid take more solid comfort in their promenade than any +I know. This is one of the inestimable benefits conferred upon them by +those wise and liberal free-thinkers Charles III. and Aranda. They knew +how important to the moral and physical health of the people a place of +recreation was. They reduced the hideous waste land on the east side of +the city to a breathing-space for future generations, turning the meadow +into a promenade and the hill into the Buen Retiro. The people growled +terribly at the time, as they did at nearly everything this prematurely +liberal government did for them. The wise king once wittily said: "My +people are like bad children that kick the shins of their nurse whenever +their faces are washed." + +But they soon became reconciled to their Prado,--a name, by the way, +which runs through several idioms,--in Paris they had a Pre-aux-clercs, +the Clerks' Meadow, and the great park of Vienna is called the Prater. +It was originally the favorite scene of duels, and the cherished +trysting-place of lovers. But in modern times it is too popular for any +such selfish use. + +The polite world takes its stately promenade in the winter afternoons in +the northern prolongation of the real Prado, called in the official +courtier style _Las delicias de Isabel Segunda,_ but in common speech +the Castilian Fountain, or _Castellana,_ to save time. So perfect is the +social discipline in these old countries that people who are not in +society never walk in this long promenade, which is open to all the +world. You shall see there, any pleasant day before the Carnival, the +aristocracy of the kingdom, the fast young hopes of the nobility, the +diplomatic body resident, and the flexible figures and graceful bearing +of the high-born ladies of Castile. Here they take the air as free from +snobbish competition as the good society of Olympus, while a hundred +paces farther south, just beyond the Mint, the world at large takes its +plebeian constitutional. How long, with a democratic system of +government, this purely conventional respect will be paid to blue-ness +of blood cannot be conjectured. Its existence a year after the +Revolution was to me one of the most singular of phenomena. + +After Easter Monday the Castellana is left to its own devices for the +summer. With the warm long days of May and June, the evening walk in the +Salon begins. Europe affords no scene more original and characteristic. +The whole city meets in this starlit drawing-room. It is a vast evening +party al fresco, stretching from the Alcala to the Course of San +Geronimo. In the wide street beside it every one in town who owns a +carriage may be seen moving lazily up and down, and apparently envying +the gossiping strollers on foot. On three nights in the week there is +music in the Retiro Garden,--not as in our feverish way beginning so +early that you must sacrifice your dinner to get there, and then turning +you out disconsolate in that seductive hour which John Phoenix used to +call the "shank of the evening," but opening sensibly at half past nine +and going leisurely forward until after midnight. The music is very +good. Sometimes Arban comes down from Paris to recover from his winter +fatigues and bewitch the Spains with his wizard _baton._ + +In all this vast crowd nobody is in a hurry. They have all night before +them. They stayed quietly at home in the stress of the noontide when the +sunbeams were falling in the glowing streets like javelins,--they +utilized some of the waste hours of the broiling afternoon in sleep, and +are fresh as daisies now. The women are not haunted by the thought of +lords and babies growling and wailing at home. Their lords are beside +them, the babies are sprawling in the clean gravel by their chairs. Late +in the small hours I have seen these family parties in the promenade, +the husband tranquilly smoking his hundredth cigarette, his _placens +uxor_ dozing in her chair, one baby asleep on the ground, and another +slumbering in her lap. + +This Madrid climate is a gallant one, and kindlier to the women than the +men. The ladies are built on the old-fashioned generous plan. Like a +Southern table in the old times, the only fault is too abundant plenty. +They move along with a superb dignity of carriage that Banting would +like to banish from the world, their round white shoulders shining in +the starlight, their fine heads elegantly draped in the coquettish and +always graceful mantilla. But you would look in vain among the men of +Madrid for such fulness and liberality of structure. They are thin, +eager, sinewy in ap' pearance,--though it is the spareness of the Turk, +not of the American. It comes from tobacco and the Guadarrama winds. +This still, fine, subtle air that blows from the craggy peaks over the +treeless plateau seems to take all superfluous moisture out of the men +of Madrid. But it is, like Benedick's wit, "a most manly air, it will +not hurt a woman." This tropic summer-time brings the halcyon days of +the vagabonds of Madrid. They are a temperate, reasonable people, after +all, when they are let alone. They do not require the savage stimulants +of our colder-blooded race. The fresh air is a feast. As Walt Whitman +says, they loaf and invite their souls. They provide for the banquet +only the most spiritual provender. Their dissipation is confined +principally to starlight and zephyrs; the coarser and wealthier spirits +indulge in ice, agraz, and meringues dissolved in water. The climax of +their luxury is a cool bed. Walking about the city at midnight, I have +seen the fountains all surrounded by luxurious vagabonds asleep or in +revery, dozens of them stretched along the rim of the basins, in the +spray of the splashing water, where the least start would plunge them +in. But the dreams of these Latin beggars are too peaceful to trouble +their slumber. They lie motionless, amid the roar of wheels and the +tramp of a thousand feet, their bed the sculptured marble, their +covering the deep, amethystine vault, warm and cherishing with its +breath of summer winds, bright with its trooping stars. The Providence +of the worthless watches and guards them! + +The chief commerce of the streets of Madrid seems to be fire and water, +bane and antidote. It would be impossible for so many match-venders to +live anywhere else, in a city ten times the size of Madrid. On every +block you will find a wandering merchant dolefully announcing paper and +phosphorus,--the one to construct cigarettes and the other to light +them. The matches are little waxen tapers very neatly made and enclosed +in pasteboard boxes, which are sold for a cent and contain about a +hundred _fosforos._ These boxes are ornamented with portraits of the +popular favorites of the day, and afford a very fair test of the +progress and decline of parties. The queen has disappeared from them +except in caricature, and the chivalrous face of Castelar and the heavy +Bourbon mouth of Don Carlos are oftener seen than any others. A Madrid +smoker of average industry will use a box a day. They smoke more +cigarettes than cigars, and in the ardor of conversation allow their +fire to go out every minute. A young Austrian, who was watching a +_senorito_ light his wisp of paper for the fifth time, and mentally +comparing it with the volcano volume and _kern-deutsch_ integrity of +purpose of the meerschaums of his native land, said to me: "What can you +expect of a people who trifle in that way with the only work of their +lives?" + +It is this habit of constant smoking that makes the Madrilenos the +thirstiest people in the world; so that, alternating with the cry of +"Fire, lord-lings! Matches, chevaliers!" you hear continually the drone +so tempting to parched throats, "Water! who wants water? freezing water! +colder than snow!" This is the daily song of the Gallician who marches +along in his irrigating mission, with his brown blouse, his short +breeches, and pointed hat, like that Aladdin wears in the cheap +editions; a little varied by the Valentian in his party-colored mantle +and his tow trousers, showing the bronzed leg from the knee to the +blue-bordered sandals. Numerous as they are, they all seem to have +enough to do. They carry their scriptural-looking water-jars on their +backs, and a smart tray of tin and burnished brass, with meringues and +glasses, in front. The glasses are of enormous but not extravagant +proportions. These dropsical Iberians will drink water as if it were no +stronger than beer. In the winter-time, while the cheerful invitation +rings out to the same effect,--that the beverage is cold as the +snow,--the merchant prudently carries a little pot of hot water over a +spirit-lamp to take the chill off for shivery customers. + +Madrid is one of those cities where strangers fear the climate less than +residents. Nothing is too bad for the Castilian to say of his native +air. Before you have been a day in the city some kind soul will warn you +against everything you have been in the habit of doing as leading to +sudden and severe death in this subtle air. You will hear in a dozen +different tones the favorite proverb, which may be translated,-- + + The air of Madrid is as sharp as a knife,-- + It will spare a candle and blow out your life:-- + +and another where the truth, as in many Spanish proverbs, is sacrificed +to the rhyme, saying that the climate is _tres meses invierno y nueve +infierno,--_three months winter and nine months Tophet. At the first +coming of the winter frosts the genuine son of Madrid gets out his capa, +the national full round cloak, and never leaves it off till late in the +hot spring days. They have a way of throwing one corner over the left +shoulder, so that a bright strip of gay lining falls outward and +pleasantly relieves the sombre monotony of the streets. In this way the +face is completely covered by the heavy woollen folds, only the eyes +being visible under the sombrero. The true Spaniard breathes no +out-of-doors air all winter except through his cloak, and they stare at +strangers who go about with uncovered faces enjoying the brisk air as if +they were lunatics. But what makes the custom absurdly incongruous is +that the women have no such terror of fresh air. While the hidalgo goes +smothered in his wrappings his wife and daughter wear nothing on their +necks and faces but their pretty complexions, and the gallant breeze, +grateful for this generous confidence, repays them in roses. I have +sometimes fancied that in this land of traditions this difference might +have arisen in those days of adventure when the cavaliers had good +reasons for keeping their faces concealed, while the senoras, we are +bound to believe, have never done anything for which their own beauty +was not the best excuse. + +Nearly all there is of interest in Madrid consists in the faces and the +life of its people. There is but one portion of the city which appeals +to the tourist's ordinary set of emotions. This is the old Moors' +quarter,--the intricate jumble of streets and places on the western edge +of the town, overlooking the bankrupt river. Here is St. Andrew's, the +parish church where Isabella the Catholic and her pious husband used to +offer their stiff and dutiful prayers. Behind it a market-place of the +most primitive kind runs precipitately down to the Street of. Segovia, +at such an angle that you wonder the turnips and carrots can ever be +brought to keep their places on the rocky slope. If you will wander +through the dark alleys and hilly streets of this quarter when twilight +is softening the tall tenement-houses to a softer purpose, and the +doorways are all full of gossiping groups, and here and there in the +little courts you can hear the tinkling of a guitar and the drone of +ballads, and see the idlers lounging by the fountains, and everywhere +against the purple sky the crosses of old convents, while the evening +air is musical with slow chimes from the full-arched belfries, it will +not be hard to imagine you are in the Spain you have read and dreamed +of. And, climbing out of this labyrinth of slums, you pass under the +gloomy gates that lead to the Plaza Mayor. This once magnificent square +is now as squalid and forsaken as the Place Royale of Paris, though it +dates from a period comparatively recent. The mind so instinctively +revolts at the contemplation of those orgies of priestly brutality which +have made the very name of this place redolent with a fragrance of +scorched Christians, that we naturally assign it an immemorial +antiquity. But a glance at the booby face of Philip III. on his +round-bellied charger in the centre of the square will remind us that +this place was built at the same time the Mayflower's passengers were +laying the massive foundations of the great Republic. The Autos-da-Fe, +the plays of Lope de Vega, and the bull-fights went on for many years +with impartial frequency under the approving eyes of royalty, which +occupied a convenient balcony in the Panaderia, that overdressed +building with the two extinguisher towers. Down to a period +disgracefully near us, those balconies were occupied by the dull-eyed, +pendulous-lipped tyrants who have sat on the throne of St. Ferdinand, +while there in the spacious court below the varied sports went +on,--to-day a comedy of Master Lope, to-morrow the gentle and joyous +slaying of bulls, and the next day, with greater pomp and ceremony, with +banners hung from the windows, and my lord the king surrounded by his +women and his courtiers in their bravest gear, and the august presence +of the chief priests and their idol in the form of wine and wafers,--the +judg-ment and fiery sentence of the thinking men of Spain. + +Let us remember as we leave this accursed spot that the old palace of +the Inquisition is now the Ministry of Justice, where a liberal +statesman has just drawn up the bill of civil marriage; and that in the +convent of the Trinitarians a Spanish Rationalist, the Minister of +Fomento, is laboring to secularize education in the Peninsula. There is +much coiling and hissing, but the fangs of the ser-pent are much less +prompt and effective than of old. + +The wide Calle Mayor brings you in a moment out of these mouldy shadows +and into the broad light of nowadays which shines in the Puerta del Sol. +Here, under the walls of the Ministry of the Interior, the quick, +restless heart of Madrid beats with the new life it has lately earned. +The flags of the pavement have been often stained with blood, but of +blood shed in combat, in the assertion of individual freedom. Although +the government holds that fortress-palace with a grasp of iron, it can +exercise no control over the free speech that asserts itself on the very +sidewalk of the Principal. At every step you see news-stands filled with +the sharp critical journalism of Spain,--often ignorant and unjust, but +generally courteous in expression and independent in thought. Every day +at noon the northern mails bring hither the word of all Europe to the +awaking Spanish mind, and within that massive building the converging +lines of the telegraph are whispering every hour their persuasive +lessons of the world's essential unity. + +The movement of life and growth is bearing the population gradually away +from that dark mediaeval Madrid of the Catholic kings through the Puerta +del Sol to the airy heights beyond, and the new, fresh quarter built by +the philosopher Bourbon Charles III. is becoming the most important part +of the city. I think we may be permitted to hope that the long reign of +savage faith and repression is broken at last, and that this abused and +suffering people is about to enter into its rightful inheritance of +modern freedom and progress. + + + + +SPANISH LIVING AND DYING + + +Nowhere is the sentiment of home stronger than in Spain. Strangers, +whose ideas of the Spanish character have been gained from romance and +comedy, are apt to note with some surprise the strength and prevalence +of the domestic affections. But a moment's reflection shows us that +nothing is more natural. It is the result of all their history. The old +Celtic population had scarcely any religion but that of the family. The +Goths brought in the pure Teutonic regard for woman and marriage. The +Moors were distinguished by the patriarchal structure of their society. +The Spaniards have thus learned the lesson of home in the school of +history and tradition. The intense feeling of individuality, which so +strongly marks the Spanish character, and which in the political world +is so fatal an element of strife and obstruction, favors this peculiar +domesticity. The Castilian is submissive to his king and his priest, +haughty and inflexible with his equals. But his own house is a refuge +from the contests of out of doors. The reflex of absolute authority is +here observed, it is true. The Spanish father is absolute king and lord +by his own hearthstone, but his sway is so mild and so readily +acquiesced in that it is hardly felt. The evils of tyranny are rarely +seen but by him who resists it, and the Spanish family seldom calls for +the harsh exercise of parental authority. + +This is the rule. I do not mean to say there are no exceptions. The +pride and jealousy inherent in the race make family quarrels, when they +do arise, the bitterest and the fiercest in the world. In every grade of +life these vindictive feuds among kindred are seen from time to time. +Twice at least the steps of the throne have been splashed with royal +blood shed by a princely hand. Duels between noble cousins and stabbing +affrays between peasant brothers alike attest the unbending sense of +personal dignity that still infects this people. + +A light word between husbands and wives sometimes goes unexplained, and +the rift between them widens through life. I know some houses where the +wife enters at one door and the husband at another; where if they meet +on the stairs, they do not salute each other. Under the same roof they +have lived for years and have not spoken. One word would heal all +discord, and that word will never be spoken by either. They cannot be +divorced,--the Church is inexorable. They will not incur the scandal of +a public separation. So they pass lives of lonely isolation in adjoining +apartments, both thinking rather better of each other and of themselves +for this devilish persistence. + +An infraction of parental discipline is never forgiven. I knew a general +whose daughter fell in love with his adjutant, a clever and amiable +young officer. He had positively no objection to the suitor, but was +surprised that there should be any love-making in his house without his +previous suggestion. He refused his consent, and the young people were +married without it. The father and son-in-law went off on a campaign, +fought, and were wounded in the same battle. The general was asked to +recommend his son-in-law for promotion. "I have no son-in-law!" "I mean +your daughter's husband." "I have no daughter." "I refer to Lieutenant +Don Fulano de Tal. He is a good officer. He distinguished himself +greatly in the recent affair." "Ah! otra cosa!" said the grim +father-in-law. His hate could not overcome his sense of justice. The +youth got his promotion, but his general will not recognize him at the +club. It is in the middle and lower classes that the most perfect +pictures of the true Spanish family are to be found. The aristocracy is +more or less infected with the contagion of Continental manners and +morals. You will find there the usual proportion of wives who despise +their husbands, and men who neglect their wives, and children who do not +honor their parents. The smartness of American "pickles" has even made +its appearance among the little countesses of Madrid. A lady was eating +an ice one day, hungrily watched by the wide eyes of the infant heiress +of the house. As the latter saw the last hope vanishing before the +destroying spoon, she cried out, "Thou eatest all and givest me +none,--maldita sea tu alma!" (accursed be thy soul). This dreadful +imprecation was greeted with roars of laughter from admiring friends, +and the profane little innocent was smothered in kisses and cream. + +Passing at noon by any of the squares or shady places of Madrid, you +will see dozens of laboring-people at their meals. They sit on the +ground, around the steaming and savory _cocido_ that forms the peasant +Spaniard's unvaried dinner. The foundation is of _garbanzos,_ the large +chick-pea of the country, brought originally to Europe by the +Carthaginians,--the Roman _cicer,_ which gave its name to the greatest +of the Latin orators. All other available vegetables are thrown in; on +days of high gala a piece of meat is added, and some forehanded +housewives attain the climax of luxury by flavoring the compound with a +link of sausage. The mother brings the dinner and her tawny brood of +nestlings. A shady spot is selected for the feast. The father dips his +wooden spoon first into the vapory bowl, and mother and babes follow +with grave decorum. Idle loungers passing these patriarchal groups, on +their way to a vapid French breakfast at a restaurant, catch the +fragrance of the _olla_ and the chatter of the family, and envy the +dinner of herbs with love. + +There is no people so frugal. We often wonder how a Washington clerk can +live on twelve hundred dollars, but this would be luxury in expensive +Madrid. It is one of the dearest capitals in Europe. Foreigners are +never weary decrying its high prices for poor fare; but Castilians live +in good houses, dress well, receive their intimate friends, and hold +their own with the best in the promenade, upon incomes that would seem +penury to any country parson in America. There are few of the nobility +who retain the great fortunes of former days. You can almost tell on +your fingers the tale of the grandees in Madrid who can live without +counting the cost. The army and navy are crowded with general officers +whose political services have obliged their promotion. The state is too +much impoverished to pay liberal salaries, and yet the rank of these +officers requires the maintenance of a certain social position. Few of +them are men of fortune. The result is that necessity has taught them to +live well upon little, I knew widows who went everywhere in society, +whose daughters were always charmingly dressed, who lived in a decent +quarter of the town, and who had no resources whatever but a husband's +pension. + +The best proof of the capacity of Spaniards to spread a little gold over +as much space as a goldbeater could is the enormous competition for +pub-lic employment. Half the young men in Spain are candidates for +places under government ranging from $250 to $1000. Places of $1500 to +$2000 are considered objects of legitimate ambition even to deputies and +leading politicians. Expressed in reals these sums have a large and +satisfying sound. Fifty dollars seems little enough for a month's work, +but a thousand reals has the look of a most respectable salary. In +Portugal, however, you can have all the delightful sensations of +prodigality at a contemptible cost. You can pay, without serious damage +to your purse, five thousand reis for your breakfast. + +It is the smallness of incomes and the necessity of looking sharply to +the means of life that makes the young people of Madrid so prudent in +their love affairs. I know of no place where ugly heir-esses are such +belles, and where young men with handsome incomes are so universally +esteemed by all who know them. The stars on the sleeves of young +officers are more regarded than their dancing, and the red belt of a +field officer is as winning in the eyes of beauty as a cestus of Venus. +A. subaltern offered his hand and heart to a black-eyed girl of Castile. +She said kindly but firmly that the night was too cloudy. "What," said +the stupefied lover, "the sky is full of stars." "I see but one," said +the prudent beauty, her fine eyes resting pensively upon his cuff, where +one lone luminary indicated his rank. + +This spirit is really one of forethought, and not avarice. People who +have enough for two almost always marry from inclination, and frequently +take partners for life without a penny. + +If men were never henpecked except by learned wives, Spain would be the +place of all others for timid men to marry in. The girls are bright, +vivacious, and naturally very clever, but they have scarcely any +education whatever. They never know the difference between _b_ and _v._ +They throw themselves in orthography entirely upon your benevolence. +They know a little music and a little French, but they have never +crossed, even in a school-day excursion, the border line of the ologies. +They do not even read novels. They are regarded as injurious, and +cannot be trusted to the daughters until mamma has read them. Mamma +never has time to read them, and so they are condemned by default. +Fernan Caballero, in one of her sleepy little romances, refers to this +illiterate character of the Spanish ladies, and says it is their chief +charm,--that a Christian woman, in good society, ought not to know +anything beyond her cookery-book and her missal. There is-an old proverb +which coarsely conveys this idea: A mule that whinnies and a woman that +talks Latin never come to any good. + +There is a contented acquiescence in this moral servitude among the fair +Spaniards which would madden our agitatresses. (See what will become of +the language when male words are crowded out of the dictionary!) + +It must be the innocence which springs from ignorance that induces an +occasional coarseness of expression which surprises you in the +conversation of those lovely young girls. They will speak with perfect +freedom of the _etat-civil_ of a young unmarried mother. A maiden of +fifteen said to me: "I must go to a party this evening _decolletee,_ and +I hate it. Benigno is getting old enough to marry, and he wants to see +all the girls in low neck before he makes up his mind." They all swear +like troopers, without a thought of profanity. Their mildest expression +of surprise is Jesus Maria! They change their oaths with the season. At +the feast of the Immaculate Conception, the favorite oath is Maria +Purissima. This is a time of especial interest to young girls. It is a +period of compulsory confession,--conscience-cleaning, as they call it. +They are all very pious in their way. They attend to their religious +duties with the same interest which they displayed a few years before in +dressing and undressing their dolls, and will display a few years later +in putting the lessons they learned with their dolls to a more practical +use. + +The visible concrete symbols and observances of religion have great +influence with them. They are fond of making vows in tight places and +faithfully observing them afterwards. In an hour's walk in the streets +of Madrid you will see a dozen ladies with a leather strap buckled about +their slender waists and hanging nearly to the ground. Others wear a +knotted cord and tassels. These are worn as the fulfilment of vows, or +penances. + +I am afraid they give rise to much worldly conjecture on the part of +idle youth as to what amiable sins these pretty penitents can have been +guilty of. It is not prudent to ask an explanation of the peculiar +mercy, or remorse, which this purgatorial strap commemorates. You will +probably not enlarge your stock of knowledge further than to learn that +the lady in question considers you a great nuisance. + +The graceful lady who, in ascending the throne of France, has not ceased +to be a thorough Spaniard, still preserves these pretty weaknesses of +her youth. She vowed a chapel to her patron saint if her firstborn was a +man-child, and paid it. She has hung a vestal lamp in the Church of +Notre Dame des Victoires, in pursuance of a vow she keeps rigidly +secret. She is a firm believer in relics also, and keeps a choice +assortment on hand in the Tuileries for sudden emergencies. When old +Baciocchi lay near his death, worn out by a horrible nervous disorder +which would not let him sleep, the empress told the doctors, with great +mystery, that she would cure him. After a few preliminary masses, she +came into his room and hung on his bedpost a little gold-embroidered +sachet containing (if the evidence of holy men is to be believed) a few +threads of the swaddling-clothes of John the Baptist. Her simple +childlike faith wrung the last grim smile from the tortured lips of the +dying courtier. + +The very names of the Spanish women are a constant reminder of their +worship. They are all named out of the calendar of saints and virgin +martyrs. A large majority are christened Mary; but as this sacred name +by much use has lost all distinctive meaning, some attribute, some +especial invocation of the Virgin, is always coupled with it. The names +of Dolores, Mercedes, Milagros, recall Our Lady of the Sorrows, of the +Gifts, of the Miracles. I knew a hoydenish little gypsy who bore the +tearful name of Lagrimas. The most appropriate name I heard for these +large-eyed, soft-voiced beauties was Peligros, Our Lady of Dangers. Who +could resist the comforting assurance of "Consuelo"? "Blessed," says my +Lord Lytton, "is woman who consoles." What an image of maiden purity +goes with the name of Nieves, the Virgin of the Snows! From a single +cotillon of Castilian girls you can construct the whole history of Our +Lady; Conception, Annunciation, Sorrows, Solitude, Assumption. As young +ladies are never called by their family names, but always by their +baptismal appellations, you cannot pass an evening in a Spanish +_tertulia_ without being reminded of every stage in the life of the +Immaculate Mother, from Bethlehem to Calvary and beyond. + +The common use of sacred words is universal in Catholic countries, but +nowhere so striking as in Spain. There is a little solemnity in the +French adieu. But the Spaniard says adios instead of "good-morning." No +letter closes without the prayer, "God guard your Grace many years!" +They say a judge announces to a murderer his sentence of death with the +sacramental wish of length of days. There is something a little shocking +to a Yankee mind in the label of Lachryma Christi; but in La Mancha they +call fritters the Grace of God. + +The piety of the Spanish women does not prevent them from seeing some +things clearly enough with their bright eyes. One of the most bigoted +women in Spain recently said: "I hesitate to let my child go to +confession. The priests ask young girls such infamous questions, that my +cheeks burn when I think of them, after all these years." I stood one +Christmas Eve in the cold midnight wind, waiting for the church doors to +open for the night mass, the famous _misa del gallo._ On the steps +beside me sat a decent old woman with her two daughters. At last she +rose and said, "Girls, it is no use waiting any longer. The priests +won't leave their housekeepers this cold night to save anybody's soul." +In these two cases, taken from the two extremes of the Catholic society, +there was no disrespect for the Church or for religion. Both these women +believed with a blind faith. But they could not help seeing how unclean +were the hands that dispensed the bread of life. + +The respect shown to the priesthood as a body is marvellous, in view of +the profligate lives of many. The general progress of the age has forced +most of the dissolute priests into hypocrisy. But their cynical +immorality is still the bane of many families. And it needs but a glance +at the vile manual of confession, called the Golden Key, the author of +which is the too well known Padre Claret, confessor to the queen, to see +the systematic moral poisoning the minds of Spanish women must undergo +who pay due attention to what is called their religious duties. If a +confessor obeys the injunctions of this high ecclesiastical authority, +his fair penitents will have nothing to learn from a diligent perusal of +Faublas or Casanova. It would, however, be unjust to the priesthood to +consider them all as corrupt as royal chaplains. It requires a +combination of convent and palace life to produce these finished +specimens of mitred infamy. + +It is to be regretted that the Spanish women are kept in such systematic +ignorance. They have a quicker and more active intelligence than the +men. With a fair degree of education, much might be hoped from them in +the intellectual development of the country. In society, you will at +once be struck with the superiority of the women to their husbands and +brothers in cleverness and appreciation. Among small tradesmen, the wife +always comes to the rescue of her slow spouse when she sees him befogged +in a bargain. In the fields, you ask a peasant some question about your +journey. He will hesitate, and stammer, and end with, "_Quien sabe?"_ +but his wife will answer with glib completeness all you want to know. I +can imagine no cause for this, unless it be that the men cloud their +brains all day with the fumes of tobacco, and the women do not. + +The personality of the woman is not so entirely merged in that of the +husband as among us. She retains her own baptismal and family name +through life. If Miss Matilda Smith marries Mr. Jonathan Jones, all +vestige of the former gentle being vanishes at once from the earth, and +Mrs. Jonathan Jones alone remains. But in Spain she would become Mrs. +Matilda Smith de Jones, and her eldest-born would be called Don Juan +Jones y Smith. You ask the name of a married lady in society, and you +hear as often her own name as that of her husband. + +Even among titled people, the family name seems more highly valued than +the titular designation. Everybody knows Narvaez, but how few have heard +of the Duke of Valencia! The Regent Serrano has a name known and honored +over the world, but most people must think twice before they remember +the Duke de la Torre. Juan Prim is better known than the Marques de los +Castillejos ever will be. It is perhaps due to the prodigality with +which titles have been scattered in late years that the older titles are +more regarded than the new, although of inferior grade. Thus Prim calls +himself almost invariably the Conde de Reus, though his grandeeship came +with his investiture as marquis. + +There is something quite noticeable about this easy way of treating +one's name. We are accustomed to think a man can have but one name, and +can sign it but in one way. Lord Derby can no more call himself Mr. +Stanley than President Grant can sign a bill as U. Simpson. Yet both +these signatures would be perfectly valid according to Spanish analogy. +The Marquis of Santa Marta signs himself Guzman; the Marquis of Albaida +uses no signature but Orense; both of these gentlemen being Republican +deputies. I have seen General Prim's name signed officially, Conde de +Reus, Marques de los Castillejos, Prim, J. Prim, Juan Prim, and Jean +Prim, changing the style as often as the humor strikes him. + +Their forms of courtesy are, however, invariable. You can never visit a +Spaniard without his informing you that you are in your own house. If, +walking with him, you pass his residence, he asks you to enter your +house and unfatigue yourself a moment. If you happen upon any Spaniard, +of whatever class, at the hour of repast, he always offers you his +dinner; if you decline, it must be with polite wishes for his digestion. +With the Spaniards, no news is good news; it is therefore civil to ask a +Spaniard if his lady-wife goes on without novelty, and to express your +profound gratification on being assured that she does. Their forms of +hospitality are evidently Moorish, derived from the genuine open hand +and open tent of the children of the desert; now nothing is left of them +but grave and decorous words. In the old times, one who would have +refused such offers would have been held a churl; now one who would +accept them would be regarded as a boor. + +There is still something primitive about the Spanish servants. A flavor +of the old romances and the old comedy still hangs about them. They are +chatty and confidential to a degree that appalls a stiff and formal +Englishman of the upper middle class. The British servant is a chilly +and statuesque image of propriety. The French is an intelligent and +sympathizing friend. You can make of him what you like. But the Italian, +and still more the Spaniard, is as gay as a child, and as incapable of +intentional disrespect. The Castilian grandee does not regard his +dignity as in danger from a moment's chat with a waiter. He has no +conception of that ferocious decorum we Anglo-Saxons require from our +manservants and our maidservants. The Spanish servant seems to regard it +as part of his duty to keep your spirits gently excited while you dine +by the gossip of the day. He joins also in your discussions, whether +they touch lightly on the politics of the hour or plunge profoundly into +the depths of philosophic research. He laughs at your wit, and swings +his napkin with convulsions of mirth at your good stories. He tells you +the history of his life while you are breaking your egg, and lays the +story of his loves before you with your coffee. Yet he is not intrusive. +He will chatter on without waiting for a reply, and when you are tired +of him you can shut him off with a word. There are few Spanish servants +so uninteresting but that you can find in them from time to time some +sparks of that ineffable light which shines forever in Sancho and +Figaro. + +The traditions of subordination, which are the result of long centuries +of tyranny, have prevented the development of that feeling of +independence among the lower orders, which in a freer race finds its +expression in ill manners and discourtesy to superiors. I knew a +gentleman in the West whose circumstances had forced him to become a +waiter in a backwoods restaurant. He bore a deadly grudge at the +profession that kept him from starving, and asserted his unconquered +nobility of soul by scowling at his customers and swearing at the viands +he dispensed. I remember the deep sense of wrong with which he would +growl, "Two buckwheats, begawd!" You see nothing of this defiant spirit +in Spanish servants. They are heartily glad to find employment, and ask +no higher good-fortune than to serve acceptably. As to drawing +comparisons between themselves and their masters, they never seem to +think they belong to the same race. I saw a pretty grisette once stop to +look at a show-window where there was a lay-figure completely covered +with all manner of trusses. She gazed at it long and earnestly, +evidently thinking it was some new fashion just introduced into the gay +world. At last she tripped away with all the grace of her unfettered +limbs, saying, "If the fine ladies have to wear all those machines, I am +glad I am not made like them." + +Whether it be from their more regular and active lives, or from their +being unable to pay for medical attendance, the poorer classes suffer +less from sickness than their betters. An ordinary Spaniard is sick but +once in his life, and that once is enough,--'twill serve. The traditions +of the old satires which represented the doctor and death as always +hunting in couples still survive in Spain. It is taken as so entirely a +matter of course that a patient must die that the law of the land +imposed a heavy fine upon physicians who did not bring a priest on their +second visit. His labor of exhortation and confession was rarely wasted. +There were few sufferers who recovered from the shock of that solemn +ceremony in their chambers. Medical science still labors in Spain under +the ban of ostracism, imposed in the days when all research was impiety. +The Inquisition clamored for the blood of Vesalius, who had committed +the crime of a demonstration in anatomy. He was forced into a pilgrimage +of expiation, and died on the way to Palestine. The Church has always +looked with a jealous eye upon the inquirers, the innovators. Why these +probes, these lancets, these multifarious drugs, when the object in view +could be so much more easily obtained by the judicious application of +masses and prayers? + +So it has come about that the doctor is a Pariah, and miracles flourish +in the Peninsula. At every considerable shrine you will see the walls +covered with waxen models of feet, legs, hands, and arms secured by the +miraculous interposition of the _genius loci,_ and scores of little +crutches attesting the marvellous hour when they became useless. Each +shrine, like a mineral spring, has its own especial virtue. A Santiago +medal was better than quinine for ague. St. Veronica's handkerchief is +sovereign for sore eyes. A bone of St. Magin supersedes the use of +mercury. A finger-nail of San Frutos cured at Segovia a case of +congenital idiocy. The Virgin of Ona acted as a vermifuge on royal +infantas, and her girdle at Tortosa smooths their passage into this +world. In this age of unfaith relics have lost much of their power. They +turn out their score or so of miracles every feast-day, it is true, but +are no longer capable of the _tours de force_ of earlier days. Cardinal +de Retz saw with his eyes a man whose wooden legs were turned to +capering flesh and blood by the image of the Pillar of Saragossa. But +this was in the good old times before newspapers and telegraphs had come +to dispel the twilight of belief. + +Now, it is excessively probable that neither doctor nor priest can do +much if the patient is hit in earnest. He soon succumbs, and is laid out +in his best clothes in an improvised chapel and duly sped on his way. +The custom of burying the dead in the gown and cowl of monks has greatly +passed into disuse. The mortal relics are treated with growing contempt, +as the superstitions of the people gradually lose their concrete +character. The soul is the important matter which the Church now looks +to. So the cold clay is carted off to the cemetery with small ceremony. +Even the coffins of the rich are jammed away into receptacles too small +for them, and hastily plastered out of sight. The poor are carried off +on trestles and huddled into their nameless graves, without following or +blessing. Children are buried with some regard to the old Oriental +customs. The coffin is of some gay and cheerful color, pink or blue, and +is carried open to the grave by four of the dead child's young +companions, a fifth walking behind with the ribboned coffin-lid. I have +often seen these touching little parties moving through the bustling +streets, the peaceful small face asleep under the open sky, decked with +the fading roses and withering lilies. In all well-to-do families the +house of death is deserted immediately after the funeral. The stricken +ones retire to some other habitation, and there pass eight days in +strict and inviolable seclusion. On the ninth day the great masses for +the repose of the soul of the departed are said in the parish church, +and all the friends of the family are expected to be present. These +masses are the most important and expensive incident of the funeral. +They cost from two hundred to one thousand dollars, according to the +strength and fervor of the orisons employed. They are repeated several +years on the anniversary of the decease, and afford a most sure and +nourishing revenue to the Church. They are founded upon those feelings +inseparable from every human heart, vanity and affection. Our dead +friends must be as well prayed for as those of others, and who knows but +that they may be in deadly need of prayers! To shorten their fiery +penance by one hour, who would not fast for a week? On these +anniversaries a black-bordered advertisement appears in the newspapers, +headed by the sign of the cross and the Requiescat in Pace, announcing +that on this day twelve months Don Fulano de Tal passed from earth +garnished with the holy sacraments, that all the masses this day +celebrated in such and such churches will be applied to the benefit of +his spirit's repose, and that all Christian friends are hereby requested +to commend his soul this day unto God. These efforts, if they do the +dead no good, at least do the living no harm. + +A luxury of grief, in those who can afford it, consists in shutting up +the house where a death has taken place and never suffering it to be +opened again. I once saw a beautiful house and wide garden thus +abandoned in one of the most fashionable streets of Madrid. I inquired +about it, and found it was formerly the residence of the Duke of------. +His wife had died there many years before, and since that day not a door +nor a window had been opened. The garden gates were red and rough with +rust. Grass grew tall and rank in the gravelled walks. A thick lush +undergrowth had overrun the flower-beds and the lawns. The blinds were +rotting over the darkened windows. Luxuriant vines clambered over all +the mossy doors. The stucco was peeling from the walls in unwholesome +blotches. Wild birds sang all day in the safe solitude. There was +something impressive in this spot of mould and silence, lying there so +green and implacable in the very heart of a great and noisy city. The +duke lived in Paris, leading the rattling life of a man of the world. He +never would sell or let that Madrid house. Perhaps in his heart also, +that battered thoroughfare worn by the pattering boots of Ma-bine and +the Bois, and the Quartier Breda, there was a green spot sacred to +memory and silence, where no footfall should ever light, where no living +voice should ever be heard, shut out from the world and its cares and +its pleasures, where through the gloom of dead days he could catch a +glimpse of a white hand, a flash of a dark eye, the rustle of a trailing +robe, and feel sweeping over him the old magic of love's young dream, +softening his fancy to tender regret and his eyes to a happy mist-- + + "Like that which kept the heart of Eden green + Before the useful trouble of the rain." + + + + +INFLUENCE OF TRADITION IN SPANISH LIFE + + +Intelligent Spaniards with whom I have conversed on political matters +have often exclaimed, "Ah, you Americans are happy! you have no +traditions." The phrase was at first a puzzling one. We Americans are +apt to think we have traditions,--a rather clearly marked line of +precedents. And it is hard to see how a people should be happier without +them. It is not anywhere considered a misfortune to have had a +grandfather, I believe, and some very good folks take an innocent pride +in that very natural fact. It was not easy to conceive why the +possession of a glorious history of many centuries should be regarded as +a drawback. But a closer observation of Spanish life and thought reveals +the curious and hurtful effect of tradition upon every phase of +existence. + +In the commonest events of every day you will find the flavor of past +ages lingering in petty annoyances. The insecurity of the middle ages +has left as a legacy to our times a complicated system of obstacles to a +man getting into his own house at night. I lived in a pleasant house on +the Prado, with a minute garden in front, and an iron gate and railing. +This gate was shut and locked by the night watchman of the quarter at +midnight,--so conscientiously that he usually had everything snug by +half past eleven. As the same man had charge of a dozen or more houses, +it was scarcely reasonable to expect him to be always at your own gate +when you arrived. But by a singular fatality I think no man ever found +him in sight at any hour. He is always opening some other gate or +shutting some other door, or settling the affairs of the nation with a +friend in the next block, or carrying on a chronic courtship at the +lattice of some olive-cheeked soubrette around the corner. Be that as it +may, no one ever found him on hand; and there is nothing to do but to +sit down on the curbstone and lift up your voice and shriek for him +until he comes. At two o'clock of a morning in January the exercise is +not improving to the larynx or the temper. There is a tradition in the +very name of this worthy. He is called the Sereno, because a century or +so ago he used to call the hour and the state of the weather, and as the +sky is almost always cloudless here, he got the name of the Sereno, as +the quail is called Bob White, from much iteration. The Sereno opens +your gate and the door of your house. When you come to your own floor +you must ring, and your servant takes a careful survey of you through a +latticed peep-hole before he will let you in. You may positively forbid +this every day in the year, but the force of habit is too strong in the +Spanish mind to suffer amendment. + +This absurd custom comes evidently down from a time of great lawlessness +and license, when no houses were secure without these precautions, when +people rarely stirred from their doors after nightfall, and when a door +was never opened to a stranger. Now, when no such dangers exist, the +annoying and senseless habit still remains, because no one dreams of +changing anything which their fathers thought proper. Three hundred +thousand people in Madrid submit year after year to this nightly cross, +and I have never heard a voice raised in protest, nor even in defence of +the custom. + +There is often a bitterness of opposition to evident improvement which +is hard to explain. In the last century, when the eminent naturalist +Bowles went down to the Almaden silver-mines, by appointment of the +government, to see what was the cause of their exhaustion, he found that +they had been worked entirely in perpendicular shafts instead of +following the direction of the veins. He perfected a plan for working +them in this simple and reasonable way, and no earthly power could make +the Spanish miners obey his orders. There was no precedent for this new +process, and they would not touch it. They preferred starvation rather +than offend the memory of their fathers by a change. At last they had to +be dismissed and a full force imported from Germany, under whose hands +the mines became instantly enormously productive. + +I once asked a very intelligent English contractor why he used no +wheelbarrows in his work. He had some hundreds of stalwart navvies +employed carrying dirt in small wicker baskets to an embankment. He said +the men would not use them. Some said it broke their backs. Others +discovered a capital way of amusing themselves by putting the barrow on +their heads and whirling the wheel as rapidly as possible with their +hands. This was a game which never grew stale. The contractor gave up in +despair, and went back to the baskets. But it is in the official regions +that tradition is most powerful. In the budget of 1870 there was a +curious chapter called "Charges of Justice." This consisted of a +collection of articles appropriating large sums of money for the payment +of feudal taxes to the great aristocracy of the kingdom as a +compensation for long extinct seigniories. The Duke of Rivas got +thirteen hundred dollars for carrying the mail to Victoria. The Duke of +San Carlos draws ten thousand dollars for carrying the royal +correspondence to the Indies. Of course this service ceased to belong to +these families some centuries ago, but the salary is still paid. The +Duke of Almodovar is well paid for supplying the _baton_ of office to +the Alguazil of Cordova. The Duke of Osuna--one of the greatest grandees +of the kingdom, a gentleman who has the right to wear seventeen hats in +the presence of the Queen--receives fifty thousand dollars a year for +imaginary feudal services. The Count of Altamira, who, as his name +indicates, is a gentleman of high views, receives as a salve for the +suppression of his fief thirty thousand dollars a year. In consideration +of this sum he surrenders, while it is punctually paid, the privilege of +hanging his neighbors. + +When the budget was discussed, a Republican member gently criticised +this chapter; but his amendment for an investigation of these charges +was indignantly rejected. He was accused of a shocking want of +Espanolismo. He was thought to have no feeling in his heart for the +glories of Spain. The respectability of the Chamber could find but one +word injurious enough to express their contempt for so shameless a +proposition; they said it was little better than socialism. The +"charges" were all voted. Spain, tottering on the perilous verge of +bankruptcy, her schoolmasters not paid for months, her sinking fund +plundered, her credit gone out of sight, borrowing every cent she spends +at thirty per cent., is proud of the privilege of paying into the hands +of her richest and most useless class this gratuity of twelve million +reals simply because they are descended from the robber chiefs of the +darker ages. There is a curious little comedy played by the family of +Medina Celi at every new coronation of a king of Spain. The duke claims +to be the rightful heir to the throne. He is descended from Prince +Ferdinand, who, dying before his father, Don Alonso X., left his babies +exposed to the cruel kindness of their uncle Sancho, who, to save them +the troubles of the throne, assumed it himself and transmitted it to his +children,--all this some half dozen centuries ago. At every coronation +the duke formally protests; an athletic and sinister-looking court +headsman comes down to his palace in the Carrera San Geronimo, and by +threats of immediate decapitation induces the duke to sign a paper +abdicating his rights to the throne of all the Spains. The duke eats the +Bourbon leek with inward profanity, and feels that he has done a most +clever and proper thing. This performance is apparently his only object +and mission in life. This one sacrifice to tradition is what he is born +for. + +The most important part of a Spaniard's signature is the _rubrica_ or +flourish with which it closes. The monarch's hand is set to public acts +exclusively by this _parafe._ This evidently dates from the time when +none but priests could write. In Madrid the mule-teams are driven tandem +through the wide streets, because this was necessary in the ages when +the streets were narrow. + +There is even a show of argument sometimes to justify an adherence to +things as they are. About a century ago there was an effort made by +people who had lived abroad, and so become conscious of the possession +of noses, to have the streets of Madrid cleaned. The proposition was at +first received with apathetic contempt, but when the innovators +persevered they met the earnest and successful opposition of all +classes. The Cas-tilian _savans_ gravely reported that the air of +Madrid, which blew down from the snowy Guadarra-mas, was so thin and +piercing that it absolutely needed the gentle corrective of the +ordure-heaps to make it fit for human lungs. + +There is no nation in Europe in which so little washing is done. I do +not think it is because the Spaniards do not want to be neat. They are, +on the whole, the best-dressed people on the Continent. The hate of +ablutions descends from those centuries of warfare with the Moors. The +heathens washed themselves daily; therefore a Christian should not. The +monks, who were too lazy to bathe, taught their followers to be filthy +by precept and example. Water was never to be applied externally except +in baptism. It was a treacherous element, and dallying with it had +gotten Bathsheba and Susanna into no end of trouble. So when the cleanly +infidels were driven out of Granada, the pious and hydrophobic Cardinal +Ximenez persuaded the Catholic sovereigns to destroy the abomination of +baths they left behind. Until very recently the Spanish mind has been +unable to separate a certain idea of immorality from bathing. When +Madame Daunoy, one of the sprightliest of observers, visited the court +of Philip IV., she found it was considered shocking among the ladies of +the best society to wash the face and hands. Once or twice a week they +would glaze their pretty visages with the white of an egg. Of late years +this prejudice has given way somewhat; but it has lasted longer than any +monument in Spain. + +These, however, are but trivial manifestations of that power of +tradition which holds the Spanish intellect imprisoned as in a vice of +iron. The whole life of the nation is fatally influenced by this blind +reverence for things that have been. It may be said that by force of +tradition Christian morality has been driven from individual life by +religion, and honesty has been supplanted as a rule of public conduct by +honor,--a wretched substitute in either case, and irreconcilably at war +with the spirit of the age. + +The growth of this double fanaticism is easily explained; it is the +result of centuries of religious wars. From the hour when Pelayo, the +first of the Asturian kings, successfully met and repulsed the hitherto +victorious Moors in his rocky fortress of Covadonga, to the day when +Boabdil the Unlucky saw for the last time through streaming tears the +vermilion towers of Alhambra crowned with the banner of the cross, there +was not a year of peace in Spain. No other nation has had such an +experience. Seven centuries of constant warfare, with three thousand +battles; this is the startling epitome of Spanish history from the +Mahometan conquest to the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella. In this vast +war there was laid the foundation of the national character of to-day. + +Even before the conquering Moslem crossed from Africa, Spain was the +most deeply religious country in Europe; and by this I mean the country +in which the Church was most powerful in its relations with the State. +When the Council of Toledo, in 633, received the king of Castile, he +fell on his face at the feet of the bishops before venturing to address +them. When the hosts of Islam had overspread the Peninsula, and the last +remnant of Christianity had taken refuge in the inaccessible hills of +the northwest, the richest possession they carried into these inviolate +fastnesses was a chest of relics,--knuckle-bones of apostles and +splinters of true crosses, in which they trusted more than in mortal +arms. The Church had thus a favorable material to work upon in the years +of struggle that followed. The circumstances all lent themselves to the +scheme of spiritual domination. The fight was for the cross against the +crescent; the symbol of the quarrel was visible and tangible. The +Spaniards were poor and ignorant and credulous. The priests were enough +superior to lead and guide them, and not so far above them as to be out +of the reach of their sympathies and their love. They marched with them. +They shared their toils and dangers. They stimulated their hate of the +enemy. They taught them that their cruel anger was the holy wrath of +God. They held the keys of eternal weal or woe, and rewarded +subservience to the priestly power with promises of everlasting +felicity; while the least symptom of rebellion in thought or action was +punished with swift death and the doom of endless flames. There was +nothing in the Church which the fighting Spaniard could recognize as a +reproach to himself. It was as bitter, as brave, as fierce, and +revengeful as he. His credulity regarded it as divine, and worthy of +blind adoration, and his heart went out to it with the sympathy of +perfect love. + +In these centuries of war there was no commerce, no manufactures, no +settled industry of importance among the Spaniards. There was +consequently no wealth, none of that comfort and ease which is the +natural element of doubt and discussion. Science did not exist. The +little learning of the time was exclusively in the hands of the +priesthood. If from time to time an intelligent spirit struggled against +the chain of unquestioning bigotry that bound him, he was rigorously +silenced by prompt and bloody punishment. There seemed to be no need of +discussion, no need of inculcation of doctrine. The serious work of the +time was the war with the infidel. The clergy managed everything. The +question, "What shall I do to be saved?" never entered into those simple +and ignorant minds. The Church would take care of those who did her +bidding. + +Thus it was that in the hammering of those struggling ages the nation +became welded together in one compact mass of unquestioning, unreasoning +faith, which the Church could manage at its own good pleasure. + +It was also in these times that Spanish honor took its rise. This +sentiment is so nearly connected with that of personal loyalty that they +may be regarded as phases of the same monarchical spirit. The rule of +honor as distinguished from honesty and virtue is the most prominent +characteristic of monarchy, and for that reason the political theorists +from the time of Montesquieu have pronounced in favor of the monarchy as +a more practicable form of government than the republic, as requiring a +less perfect and delicate machinery, men of honor being far more common +than men of virtue. As in Spain, owing to special conditions, monarchy +attained the most perfect growth and development which the world has +seen, the sentiment of honor, as a rule of personal and political +action, has there reached its most exaggerated form. I use this word, of +course, in its restricted meaning of an intense sense of personal +dignity, and readiness to sacrifice for this all considerations of +interest and morality. + +This phase of the Spanish character is probably derived in its germ from +the Gothic blood of their ancestors. Their intense self-assertion has +been, in the Northern races, modified by the progress of intelligence +and the restraints of municipal law into a spirit of sturdy self-respect +and a disinclination to submit to wrong. The Goths of Spain have +unfortunately never gone through this civilizing process. Their endless +wars never gave an opportunity for the development of the purely civic +virtues of respect and obedience to law. The people at large were too +wretched, too harried by constant coming and going of the waves of war, +to do more than live, in a shiftless, hand-to-mouth way, from the +proceeds of their flocks and herds. There were no cities of importance +within the Spanish lines. There was no opportunity for the growth of the +true burgher spirit. + +There was no law to speak of in all these years except the twin +despotism of the Church and the king. If there had been dissidence +between them it might have been better for the people. But up to late +years there has never been a quarrel between the clergy and the crown. +Their interests were so identified that the dual tyranny was stronger +than even a single one could have been. The crown always lending to the +Church when necessary the arm of flesh, and the Church giving to the +despotism of the sceptre the sanction of spiritual authority, an +absolute power was established over body and soul. + +The spirit of individual independence inseparable from Gothic blood +being thus forced out of its natural channels of freedom of thought and +municipal liberty, it remained in the cavaliers of the army of Spain in +the same barbarous form which it had held in the Northern forests,--a +physical self-esteem and a readiness to fight on the slightest +provocation. This did not interfere with the designs of the Church and +was rather a useful engine against its enemies. The absolute power of +the crown kept the spirit of feudal arrogance in check while the +pressure of a common danger existed. The close cohesion which was so +necessary in camp and Church prevented the tendency to disintegration, +while the right of life and death was freely exercised by the great +lords on their distant estates without interference. The predominating +power of the crown was too great and too absolute to result in the +establishment of any fixed principle of obedience to law. The union of +crozier and sceptre had been, if anything, too successful. The king was +so far above the nobility that there was no virtue in obeying him. His +commission was divine, and he was no more confined by human laws than +the stars and the comets. The obedience they owed and paid him was not +respect to law. It partook of the character of religious worship, and +left untouched and untamed in their savage hearts the instinct of +resistance to all earthly claims of authority. + +Such was the condition of the public spirit of Spain at the beginning of +that wonderful series of reigns from Ferdinand and Isabella to their +great-grandson Philip II., which in less than a century raised Spain to +the summit of greatness and built up a realm on which the sun never set. +All the events of these prodigious reigns contributed to increase and +intensify the national traits to which we have referred. The discovery +of America flooded Europe with gold, and making the better class of +Spaniards the richest people in the world naturally heightened their +pride and arrogance. The long and eventful religious wars of Charles V. +and Philip II. gave employment and distinction to thousands of families +whose vanity was nursed by the royal favor, and whose ferocious +self-will was fed and pampered by the blood of heretics and the spoil of +rebels. + +The national qualities of superstition and pride made the whole cavalier +class a wieldy and effective weapon in the hands of the monarch, and the +use he made of them reacted upon these very traits, intensifying and +affirming them. + +So terrible was this absolute command of the spiritual and physical +forces of the kingdom possessed by the monarchs of that day, that when +the Reformation flashed out, a beacon in the northern sky of political +and religious freedom to the world, its light could not penetrate into +Spain. There was a momentary struggle there, it is true. But so +apathetic was the popular mind that the effort to bring it into sympathy +with the vast movement of the age was hopeless from the beginning. The +axe and the fagot made rapid work of the heresy. After only ten years of +burnings and beheadings Philip II. could boast that not a heretic lived +in his borders. + +Crazed by his success and his unquestioned omnipotence at home, and +drunken with the delirious dream that God's wrath was breathing through +him upon a revolted world, he essayed to crush heresy throughout Europe; +and in this mad and awful crime his people undoubtingly seconded him. In +this he failed, the stars in their courses fighting against him, the God +that his worship slandered taking sides against him. But history records +what rivers of blood he shed in the long and desperate fight, and how +lovingly and adoringly his people sustained him. He killed, in cold +blood, some forty thousand harmless people for their faith, besides the +vastly greater number whose lives he took in battle. + +Yet this horrible monster, who is blackened with every crime at which +humanity shudders, who had no grace of manhood, no touch of humanity, no +gleam of sympathy which could redeem the gloomy picture of his ravening +life, was beloved and worshipped as few men have been since the world +has stood. The common people mourned him at his death with genuine +unpaid sobs and tears. They will weep even yet at the story of his +edifying death,--this monkish vampire breathing his last with his eyes +fixed on the cross of the mild Nazarene, and tormented with impish +doubts as to whether he had drunk blood enough to fit him for the +company of the just! + +His successors rapidly fooled away the stupendous empire that had filled +the sixteenth century with its glory. Spain sank from the position of +ruler of the world and queen of the seas to the place of a second-rate +power, by reason of the weakening power of superstition and bad +government, and because the people and the chieftains had never learned +the lesson of law. + +The clergy lost no tittle of their power. They went on, gayly roasting +their heretics and devouring the substance of the people, more +prosperous than ever in those days of national decadence. Philip III. +gave up the government entirely to the Duke of Lerma, who formed an +alliance with the Church, and they led together a joyous life. In the +succeeding reign the Church had become such a gnawing cancer upon the +state that the servile Cortes had the pluck to protest against its +inroads. There were in 1626 nine thousand monasteries for men, besides +nunneries. There were thirty-two thousand Dominican and Franciscan +friars. In the diocese of Seville alone there were fourteen thousand +chaplains. There was a panic in the land. Every one was rushing to get +into holy orders. The Church had all the bread. Men must be monks or +starve. _Zelus domus tuae come-dit me,_ writes the British ambassador, +detailing these facts. + +We must remember that this was the age when the vast modern movement of +inquiry and investigation was beginning. Bacon was laying in England the +foundations of philosophy, casting with his prophetic intelligence the +horoscope of unborn sciences. Descartes was opening new vistas of +thought to the world. But in Spain, while the greatest names of her +literature occur at this time, they aimed at no higher object than to +amuse their betters. Cervantes wrote Quixote, but he died in a monk's +hood; and Lope de Vega was a familiar of the Inquisition. The sad story +of the mind of Spain in this momentous period may be written in one +word,--everybody believed and nobody inquired. + +The country sank fast into famine and anarchy. The madness of the monks +and the folly of the king expelled the Moors in 1609, and the loss of a +million of the best mechanics and farmers of Spain struck the nation +with a torpor like that of death. In 1650 Sir Edward Hyde wrote that +"affairs were in huge disorder." People murdered each other for a loaf +of bread. The marine perished for want of sailors. In the stricken land +nothing flourished but the rabble of monks and the royal authority. + +This is the curious fact. The Church and the Crown had brought them to +this misery, yet better than their lives the Spaniards loved the Church +and the Crown. A word against either would have cost any man his life in +those days. The old alliance still hung together firmly. The Church +bullied and dragooned the king in private, but it valued his despotic +power too highly ever to slight it in public. There was something +superhuman about the faith and veneration with which the people, and the +aristocracy as well, regarded the person of the king. There was somewhat +of gloomy and ferocious dignity about Philip II. which might easily +bring a courtier to his knees; but how can we account for the equal +reverence that was paid to the ninny Philip III., the debauched trifler +Philip IV., and the drivelling idiot Charles II.? + +Yet all of these were invested with the same attributes of the divine. +Their hands, like those of Midas, had the gift of making anything they +touched too precious for mortal use. A horse they had mounted could +never be ridden again. A woman they had loved must enter a nunnery when +they were tired of her. + +When Buckingham came down to Spain with Charles of England, the +Conde-Duque of Olivares was shocked and scandalized at the relation of +confidential friendship that existed between the prince and the duke. +The world never saw a prouder man than Olivares. His picture by +Velazquez hangs side by side with that of his royal master in Madrid. +You see at a glance that the count-duke is the better man physically, +mentally, morally. But he never dreamed it. He thought in his inmost +heart that the best thing about him was the favor of the worthless +fribble whom he governed. + +Through all the vicissitudes of Spanish history the force of these +married superstitions--reverence for the Church as distinguished from +the fear of God, and reverence for the king as distinguished from +respect for law--have been the ruling characteristics of the Spanish +mind. Among the fatal effects of this has been the extinction of +rational piety and rational patriotism. If a man was not a good Catholic +he was pretty sure to be an atheist. If he did not honor the king he was +an outlaw. The wretched story of Spanish dissensions beyond seas, and +the loss of the vast American empire, is distinctly traceable to the +exaggerated sentiment of personal honor, unrestrained by the absolute +authority of the crown. It seems impossible for the Spaniard of history +and tradition to obey anything out of his sight. The American provinces +have been lost one by one through petty quarrels and colonial rivalries. +At the first word of dispute their notion of honor obliges them to fly +to arms, and when blood has been shed reconciliation is impossible. So +weak is the principle of territorial loyalty, that whenever the +Peninsula government finds it necessary to overrule some violence of its +own soldiers, these find no difficulty in marching over to the +insurrection, or raising a fresh rebellion of their own. So little +progress has there been in Spain from the middle ages to to-day in true +political science, that we see such butchers as Caballero and Valmaseda +repeating to-day the crimes and follies of Cortes and Pamfilo Narvaez, +of Pizarro and Almagro, and the revolt of the bloodthirsty volunteers of +the Havana is only a question of time. + +It is true that in later years there has been the beginning of a better +system of thought and discussion in Spain. But the old tradition still +holds its own gallantly in Church and state. Nowhere in the world are +the forms of religion so rigidly observed, and the precepts of Christian +morality less regarded. The most facile beauties in Madrid are severe as +Minervas on Holy Thursday. I have seen a dozen fast men at the door of a +gambling-house fall on their knees in the dust as the Host passed by in +the street. Yet the fair were no less frail and the senoritos were no +less profligate for this unfeigned reverence for the outside of the cup +and platter. + +In the domain of politics there is still the lamentable disproportion +between honor and honesty. A high functionary cares nothing if the whole +Salon del Prado talks of his pilferings, but he will risk his life in an +instant if you call him no gentleman. The word "honor" is still used in +all legislative assemblies, even in England and America. But the idea +has gone by the board in all democracies, and the word means no more +than the chamberlain's sword or the speaker's mace. The only criterion +which the statesman of the nineteenth century applies to public acts is +that of expediency and legality. The first question is, "Is it lawful?" +the second, "Does it pay?" Both of these are questions of fact, and as +such susceptible of discussion and proof. The question of honor and +religion carries us at once into the realm of sentiment where no +demonstration is possible. But this is where every question is planted +from the beginning in Spanish politics. Every public matter presents +itself under this form: "Is it consistent with Spanish honor?" and "Will +it be to the advantage of the Roman Catholic Apostolic Church?" Now, +nothing is consistent with Spanish honor which does not recognize the +Spain of to-day as identical with the Spain of the sixteenth century, +and the bankrupt government of Madrid as equal in authority to the +world-wide autocracy of Charles V. And nothing is thought to be to the +advantage of the Church which does not tend to the concubinage of the +spiritual and temporal power, and to the muzzling of speech and the +drugging of the mind to sleep. + +Let any proposition be made which touches this traditional +susceptibility of race, no matter how sensible or profitable it may be, +and you hear in the Cortes and the press, and, louder than all, among +the idle cavaliers of the _cafes,_ the wildest denunciations of the +treason that would consent to look at things as they are. The men who +have ventured to support the common-sense view are speedily stormed into +silence or timid self-defence. The sword of Guzman is brandished in the +Chambers, the name of Pelayo is invoked, the memory of the Cid is +awakened, and the proposition goes out in a blaze of patriotic +pyrotechnics, to the intense satisfaction of the unthinking and the +grief of the judicious. The senoritos go back to the serious business of +their lives--coffee and cigarettes--with a genuine glow of pride in a +country which is capable of the noble self-sacrifice of cutting off its +nose to spite somebody else's face. + +But I repeat, the most favorable sign of the times is that this tyranny +of tradition is losing its power. A great deal was done by the single +act of driving out the queen. This was a blow at superstition which gave +to the whole body politic a most salutary shock. Never before in Spain +had a revolution been directed at the throne. Before it was always an +obnoxious ministry that was to be driven out. The monarch remained; and +the exiled outlaw of to-day might be premier to-morrow. But the fall of +Novaliches at the Bridge of Alcolea decided the fate not only of the +ministry but of the dynasty; and while General Concha was waiting for +the train to leave Madrid, Isabel of Bourbon and Divine Right were +passing the Pyrenees. + +Although the moral power of the Church is still so great, the +incorporation of freedom of worship in the constitution of 1869 has been +followed by a really remarkable development of freedom of thought. The +proposition was regarded by some with horror and by others with +contempt. One of the most enlightened statesmen in Spain once said to +me, "The provision for freedom of worship in the constitution is a mere +abstract proposition,--it can never have any practical value except for +foreigners. I cannot conceive of a Spaniard being anything but a +Catholic." And so powerful was this impression in the minds of the +deputies that the article only accords freedom of worship to foreigners +in Spain, and adds, hypothetically, that if any Spaniards should profess +any other religion than the Catholic, they are entitled to the same +liberty as foreigners. The Inquisition has been dead half a century, +but you can see how its ghost still haunts the official mind of Spain. +It is touching to see how the broken links of the chain of superstition +still hang about even those who imagine they are defying it. As in their +Christian burials, following unwittingly the example of the hated Moors, +they bear the corpse with uncovered face to the grave, and follow it +with the funeral torch of the Romans, so the formula of the Church +clings even to the mummery of the atheists. Not long ago in Madrid a man +and woman who belonged to some fantastic order which rejected religion +and law had a child born to them in the course of things, and determined +that it should begin life free from the taint of superstition. It should +not be christened, it should be named, in the Name of Reason. But they +could not break loose from the idea of baptism. They poured a bottle of +water on the shivering nape of the poor little neophyte, and its frail +life went out in its first wheezing week. + +But in spite of all this a spirit of religious inquiry is growing up in +Spain, and the Church sees it and cannot prevent it. It watches the +liberal newspapers and the Protestant prayer-meetings much as the old +giant in Bunyan's dream glared at the passing pilgrims, mumbling and +muttering toothless curses. It looks as if the dead sleep of uniformity +of thought were to be broken at last, and Spain were to enter the +healthful and vivifying atmosphere of controversy. + +Symptoms of a similar change may be seen in the world of politics. The +Republican party is only a year or two old, but what a vigorous and +noisy infant it is! With all its faults and errors, it seems to have the +promise of a sturdy and wholesome future. It refuses to be bound by the +memories of the past, but keeps its eyes fixed on the brighter +possibilities to come. Its journals, undeterred by the sword of Guzman +or the honor of all the Caballeros,--the men on horseback,--are +advocating such sensible measures as justice to the Antilles, and the +sale of outlying property, which costs more than it produces. Emilio +Castelar, casting behind him all the restraints of tradition, announces +as his idea of liberty "the right of all citizens to obey nothing but +the law." There is no sounder doctrine than this preached in Manchester +or Boston. If the Spanish people can be brought to see that God is +greater than the Church, and that the law is above the king, the day of +final deliverance is at hand. + + + + +TAUROMACHY + + +The bull-fight is the national festival of Spain. The rigid Britons have +had their fling at it for many years. The effeminate _badaud_ of Paris +has declaimed against its barbarity. Even the aristocracy of Spain has +begun to suspect it of vulgarity and to withdraw from the arena the +light of its noble countenance. But the Spanish people still hold it to +their hearts and refuse to be weaned from it. + +"As Panem et Circenses was the cry Among the Roman populace of old, So +Pan y Toros is the cry in Spain." + +It is a tradition which has passed into their national existence. They +received it from nowhere. They have transmitted it nowhither except to +their own colonies. In late years an effort has been made to transplant +it, but with small success. There were a few bull-fights four years ago +at Havre. There was a sensation of curiosity which soon died away. This +year in London the experiment was tried, but was hooted out of +existence, to the great displeasure of the Spanish journals, who said +the ferocious Islanders would doubtless greatly prefer baiting to death +a half dozen Irish serfs from the estate of Lord Fritters,--a gentle +diversion in which we are led to believe the British peers pass their +leisure hours. + +It is this monopoly of the bull-fight which so endears it to the Spanish +heart. It is to them conclusive proof of the vast superiority of both +the human and taurine species in Spain. The eminent torero, Pepe Illo, +said: "The love of bulls is inherent in man, especially in the Spaniard, +among which glorious people there have been bull-fights ever since bulls +were, because," adds Pepe, with that modesty which forms so charming a +trait of the Iberian character, "the Spanish men are as much more brave +than all other men, as the Spanish bull is more savage and valiant than +all other bulls." + +The sport permeates the national life. I have seen it woven into the +tapestry of palaces, and rudely stamped on the handkerchief of the +peasant. It is the favorite game of children in the street. Loyal Spain +was thrilled with joy recently on reading in its Paris correspondence +that when the exiled Prince of Asturias went for a half-holiday to visit +his imperial comrade at the Tuileries, the urchins had a game of "toro" +on the terrace, admirably conducted by the little Bourbon and followed +up with great spirit by the little Montijo-Bonaparte. + +The bull-fight has not always enjoyed the royal favor. Isabel the +Catholic would fain have abolished bathing and bull-fighting together. +The Spaniards, who willingly gave up their ablutions, stood stoutly by +their bulls, and the energetic queen was baffled. Again when the +Bourbons came in with Philip V., the courtiers turned up their thin +noses at the coarse diversion, and induced the king to abolish it. It +would not stay abolished, however, and Philip's successor built the +present coliseum in expiation. The spectacle has, nevertheless, lost +much of its early splendor by the hammering of time. Formerly the gayest +and bravest gentlemen of the court, mounted on the best horses in the +kingdom, went into the arena and defied the bull in the names of their +lady-loves. Now the bull is baited and slain by hired artists, and the +horses they mount are the sorriest hacks that ever went to the knacker. + +One of the most brilliant shows of the kind that was ever put upon the +scene was the Festival of Bulls given by Philip IV. in honor of Charles +I., + + "When the Stuart came from far, + Led by his love's sweet pain, + To Mary, the guiding star + That shone in the heaven of Spain." + +And the memory of that dazzling occasion was renewed by Ferdinand VII. +in the year of his death, when he called upon his subjects to swear +allegiance to his baby Isabel. This festival took place in the Plaza +Mayor. The king and court occupied the same balconies which Charles and +his royal friend and model had filled two centuries before. The +champions were poor nobles, of good blood but scanty substance, who +fought for glory and pensions, and had quadrilles of well-trained +bull-fighters at their stirrups to prevent the farce from becoming +tragedy. The royal life of Isabel of Bourbon was inaugurated by the +spilled blood of one hundred bulls save one. The gory prophecy of that +day has been well sustained. Not one year has passed since then free +from blood shed in her cause. + +But these extraordinary attractions are not necessary to make a festival +of bulls the most seductive of all pleasures to a Spaniard. On any +pleasant Sunday afternoon, from Easter to All Souls, you have only to go +into the street to see that there is some great excitement fusing the +populace into one living mass of sympathy. All faces are turned one way, +all minds are filled with one purpose. From the Puerta del Sol down the +wide Alcala a vast crowd winds, solid as a glacier and bright as a +kaleidoscope. From the grandee in his blazoned carriage to the manola in +her calico gown, there is no class unrepresented. Many a red hand grasps +the magic ticket which is to open the realm of enchantment to-day, and +which represents short commons for a week before. The pawnbrokers' shops +have been very animated for the few preceding days. There is nothing too +precious to be parted with for the sake of the bulls. Many of these +smart girls have made the ultimate sacrifice for that coveted scrap of +paper. They would leave one their mother's cross with the children of +Israel rather than not go. It is no cheap entertainment. The worst +places in the broiling sun cost twenty cents, four reals; and the boxes +are sold usually at fifteen dollars. These prices are necessary to cover +the heavy expenses of bulls, horses, and gladiators. + +The way to the bull-ring is one of indescribable animation. The cabmen +drive furiously this day their broken-kneed nags, who will soon be found +on the horns of the bulls, for this is the natural death of the Madrid +cab-horse; the omnibus teams dash gayly along with their shrill chime of +bells; there are the rude jests of clowns and the high voices of excited +girls; the water-venders droning their tempting cry, "Cool as the snow!" +the sellers of fans and the merchants of gingerbread picking up their +harvests in the hot and hungry crowd. + +The Plaza de Toros stands just outside the monumental gate of the +Alcala. It is a low, squat, prison-like circus of stone, stuccoed and +whitewashed, with no pretence of ornament or architectural effect. There +is no nonsense whatever about it. It is built for the killing of bulls +and for no other purpose. Around it, on a day of battle, you will find +encamped great armies of the lower class of Madrilenos, who, being at +financial ebb-tide, cannot pay to go in. But they come all the same, to +be in the enchanted neighborhood, to hear the shouts and roars of the +favored ones within, and to seize any possible occasion for getting in. +Who knows? A caballero may come out and give them his check. An English +lady may become disgusted and go home, taking away numerous lords whose +places will be vacant. The sky may fall, and they may catch four reals' +worth of larks. It is worth taking the chances. + +One does not soon forget the first sight of the full coliseum. In the +centre is the sanded arena, surrounded by a high barrier. Around this +rises the graded succession of stone benches for the people; then +numbered seats for the connoisseurs; and above a row of boxes extending +around the circle. The building holds, when full, some fourteen thousand +persons; and there is rarely any vacant space. For myself I can say that +what I vainly strove to imagine in the coliseum at Rome, and in the more +solemn solitude of the amphitheatres of Capua and Pompeii, came up +before me with the vividness of life on entering the bull-ring of +Madrid. This, and none other, was the classic arena. This was the crowd +that sat expectant, under the blue sky, in the hot glare of the South, +while the doomed captives of Dacia or the sectaries of Judea commended +their souls to the gods of the Danube, or the Crucified of Galilee. Half +the sand lay in the blinding sun. Half the seats were illuminated by the +fierce light. The other half was in shadow, and the dark crescent crept +slowly all the afternoon across the arena as the sun declined in the +west. + +It is hard to conceive a more brilliant scene. The women put on their +gayest finery for this occasion. In the warm light, every bit of color +flashes out, every combination falls naturally into its place. I am +afraid the luxuriance of hues in the dress of the fair Iberians would be +considered shocking in Broadway, but in the vast frame and broad light +of the Plaza the effect was very brilliant. Thousands of party-colored +paper fans are sold at the ring. The favorite colors are the national +red and yellow, and the fluttering of these broad, bright disks of color +is dazzlingly attractive. There is a gayety of conversation, a quick +fire of repartee, shouts of recognition and salutation, which altogether +make up a bewildering confusion. + +The weary young water-men scream their snow-cold refreshment. The +orange-men walk with their gold-freighted baskets along the barrier, and +throw their oranges with the most marvellous skill and certainty to +people in distant boxes or benches. They never miss their mark. They +will throw over the heads of a thousand people a dozen oranges into the +outstretched hands of customers, so swiftly that it seems like one line +of gold from the dealer to the buyer. + +At length the blast of a trumpet announces the clearing of the ring. The +idlers who have been lounging in the arena are swept out by the +alguaciles, and the hum of conversation gives way to an expectant +silence. When the last loafer has reluctantly retired, the great gate is +thrown open, and the procession of the toreros enters. They advance in a +glittering line: first the marshals of the day, then the picadors on +horseback, then the matadors on foot surrounded each by his quadrille of +chulos. They walk towards the box which holds the city fathers, under +whose patronage the show is given, and formally salute the authority. +This is all very classic, also, recalling the _Ave Caesar, morituri,_ +etc., of the gladiators. It lacks, however, the solemnity of the Roman +salute, from those splendid fellows who would never all leave the arena +alive. A bullfighter is sometimes killed, it is true, but the percentage +of deadly danger is scarcely enough to make a spectator's heart beat as +the bedizened procession comes flashing by in the sun. + +The municipal authority throws the bowing alguacil a key, which he +catches in his hat, or is hissed if he misses it. With this he unlocks +the door through which the bull is to enter, and then scampers off with +undignified haste through the opposite entrance. There is a bugle +flourish, the door flies open, and the bull rushes out, blind with the +staring light, furious with rage, trembling in every limb. This is the +most intense moment of the day. The glorious brute is the target of +twelve thousand pairs of eyes. There is a silence as of death, while +every one waits to see his first movement. He is doomed from the +beginning; the curtain has risen on a three-act tragedy, which will +surely end with his death, but the incidents which are to fill the +interval are all unknown. The minds and eyes of all that vast assembly +know nothing for the time but the movements of that brute. He stands for +an instant recovering his senses. He has been shot suddenly out of the +darkness into that dazzling light. He sees around him a sight such as he +never confronted before,--a wall of living faces lit up by thousands of +staring eyes. He does not dwell long upon this, however; in his pride +and anger he sees a nearer enemy. The horsemen have taken position near +the gate, where they sit motionless as burlesque statues, their long +ashen spears, iron-tipped, in rest, their wretched nags standing +blindfolded, with trembling knees, and necks like dromedaries, not +dreaming of their near fate. The bull rushes, with a snort, at the +nearest one. The picador holds firmly, planting his spear-point in the +shoulder of the brute. Sometimes the bull flinches at this sharp and +sudden punishment, and the picador, by a sudden turn to the left, gets +away unhurt. Then there is applause for the torero and hisses for the +bull. Some indignant amateurs go so far as to call him cow, and to +inform him that he is the son of his mother. But oftener he rushes in, +not caring for the spear, and with one toss of his sharp horns tumbles +horse and rider in one heap against the barrier and upon the sand. The +capeadores, the cloak-bearers, come fluttering around and divert the +bull from his prostrate victims. The picador is lifted to his feet,--his +iron armor not permitting him to rise without help,--and the horse is +rapidly scanned to see if his wounds are immediately mortal. If not, the +picador mounts again, and provokes the bull to another rush. A horse +will usually endure two or three attacks before dying. Sometimes a +single blow from in front pierces the heart, and the blood spouts forth +in a cataract. In this case the picador hastily dismounts, and the +bridle and saddle are stripped in an instant from the dying brute. If a +bull is energetic and rapid in execution, he will clear the arena in a +few moments. He rushes at one horse after another, tears them open with +his terrible "spears" ("horns" is a word never used in the ring), and +sends them madly galloping over the arena, trampling out their gushing +bowels as they fly. The assistants watch their opportunity, from time to +time, to take the wounded horses out of the ring, plug up their gaping +rents with tow, and sew them roughly up for another sally. It is +incredible to see what these poor creatures will endure,--carrying their +riders at a lumbering gallop over the ring, when their thin sides seem +empty of entrails. + +Sometimes the bull comes upon the dead body of a horse he has killed. +The smell of blood and the unmoving helplessness of the victim excite +him to the highest pitch. He gores and tramples the carcass, and tosses +it in the air with evident enjoyment, until diverted by some living +tormentor. You will occasionally see a picador nervous and anxious about +his personal safety. They are ignorant and superstitious, and subject to +presentiments; they often go into the ring with the impression that +their last hour has come. If one takes counsel of his fears and avoids +the shock of combat, the hard-hearted crowd immediately discover it and +rain maledictions on his head. I saw a picador once enter the ring as +pale as death. He kept carefully out of the way of the bull for a few +minutes. The sharp-eyed Spaniards noticed it, and commenced shouting, +"Craven! He wants to live forever!" They threw orange-skins at him, and +at last, their rage vanquishing their economy, they pelted him with +oranges. His pallor gave way to a flush of shame and anger. He attacked +the bull so awkwardly that the animal, killing his horse, threw him also +with great violence. His hat flew off, his bald head struck the hard +soil. He lay there as one dead, and was borne away lifeless. This +mollified the indignant people, and they desisted from their abuse. + +A cowardly bull is much more dangerous than a courageous one, who lowers +his head, shuts his eyes, and goes blindly at everything he sees. The +last refuge of a bull in trouble is to leap the barrier, where he +produces a lively moment among the water-carriers and orange-boys and +stage-carpenters. I once saw a bull, who had done very little execution +in the arena, leap the barrier suddenly and toss an unfortunate +carpenter from the gangway sheer into the ring. He picked himself up, +laughed, saluted his friends, ran a little distance and fell, and was +carried out dying. Fatal accidents are rarely mentioned in the +newspapers, and it is considered not quite good form to talk about them. + +When the bull has killed enough horses, the first act of the play +terminates. But this is an exceedingly delicate matter for the +authorities to decide. The audience will not endure any economy in this +respect. If the bull is enterprising and "voluntary," he must have as +many horses as he can dispose of. One day in Madrid the bulls operated +with such activity that the supply of horses was exhausted before the +close of the show, and the contractors rushed out in a panic and bought +a half dozen screws from the nearest cab-stand. If the president orders +out the horses before their time, he will hear remarks by no means +complimentary from the austere groundlings. + +The second act is the play of the banderilleros, the flag-men. They are +beautifully dressed and superbly built fellows, principally from +Andalusia, got up precisely like Figaro in the opera. Theirs is the most +delicate and graceful operation of the bull-fight. They take a pair of +barbed darts, with little banners fluttering at their ends, and provoke +the bull to rush at them. At the instant he reaches them, when it seems +nothing can save them, they step aside and plant the banderillas in the +neck of the bull. If the bull has been cowardly and sluggish, and the +spectators have called for "fire," darts are used filled with detonating +powder at the base, which explode in the flesh of the bull. He dances +and skips like a kid or a colt in his agony, which is very diverting to +the Spanish mind. A prettier conceit is that of confining small birds in +paper cages, which come apart when the banderilla is planted, and set +the little fluttering captives free. + +Decking the bull with these torturing ornaments is the last stage in the +apprenticeship of the chulo, before he rises to the dignity of matador, +or killer. The matadors themselves on special occasions think it no +derogation from their dignity to act as banderilleros. But they usually +accompany the act with some exaggeration of difficulty that reaps for +them a harvest of applause. Frascuelo sits in a chair and plants the +irritating bannerets. Lagartijo lays his handkerchief on the ground and +stands upon it while he coifs the bull. A performance which never fails +to bring down the house is for the torero to await the rush of the bull, +and when the bellowing monster comes at him with winking eyes and +lowered head, to put his slippered foot between the horns, and vault +lightly over his back. + +These chulos exhibit the most wonderful skill and address in evading the +assault of the bull. They can almost always trick him by waving their +cloaks a little out of the line of their flight. Sometimes, however, the +bull runs straight at the man, disregarding the flag, and if the +distance is great to the barrier the danger is imminent; for swift as +these men are, the bulls are swifter. Once I saw the bull strike the +torero at the instant he vaulted over the barrier. He fell sprawling +some distance the other side, safe, but terribly bruised and stunned. As +soon as he could collect himself he sprang into the arena again, looking +very seedy; and the crowd roared, "Saved by miracle." I could but think +of Basilio, who, when the many cried, "A miracle," answered, "Industria! +Industria!" But these bullfighters are all very pious, and glad to curry +favor with the saints by attributing every success to their +intervention. The famous matador, Paco Montes, fervently believed in an +amulet he carried, and in the invocation of Our Lord of the True Cross. +He called upon this special name in every tight place, and while other +people talked of his luck he stoutly affirmed it was his faith that +saved him; often he said he saw the veritable picture of the Passion +coming down between him and the bull, in answer to his prayers. At every +bull-ring there is a little chapel in the refreshment-room where these +devout ruffians can toss off a prayer or two in the intervals of work. A +priest is always at hand with a consecrated wafer, to visa the torero's +passport who has to start suddenly for Paradise. It is not exactly +regular, but the ring has built many churches and endowed many chapels, +and must not be too rigidly regarded. In many places the chief boxes are +reserved for the clergy, and prayers are hurried through an hour earlier +on the day of combat. + +The final act is the death of the bull. It must come at last. His +exploits in the early part of his career afford to the amateur some +indication of the manner in which he will meet his end. If he is a +generous, courageous brute, with more heart than brains, he will die +gallantly and be easily killed. But if he has shown reflection, +forethought, and that saving quality of the oppressed, suspicion, the +matador has a serious work before him. The bull is always regarded from +this objective standpoint. The more power of reason the brute has, the +worse opinion the Spaniard has of him. A stupid creature who rushes +blindly on the sword of the matador is an animal after his own heart. +But if there be one into whose brute brain some glimmer of the awful +truth has come,--and this sometimes happens,--if he feels the solemn +question at issue between him and his enemy, if he eyes the man and not +the flag, if he refuses to be fooled by the waving lure, but keeps all +his strength and all his faculties for his own defence, the soul of the +Spaniard rises up in hate and loathing. He calls on the matador to kill +him any way. If he will not rush at the flag, the crowd shouts for the +demi-lune; and the noble brute is houghed from behind, and your soul +grows sick with shame of human nature, at the hellish glee with which +they watch him hobbling on his severed legs. + +This seldom happens. The final act is usually an admirable study of +coolness and skill against brute force. When the banderillas are all +planted, and the bugles sound for the third time, the matador, the +espada, the sword, steps forward with a modest consciousness of +distinguished merit, and makes a brief speech to the corregidor, +offering in honor of the good city of Madrid to kill the bull. He turns +on his heel, throws his hat by a dexterous back-handed movement over the +barrier, and advances, sword and cape in hand, to where his noble enemy +awaits him. The bull appears to recognize a more serious foe than any he +has encountered. He stops short and eyes the newcomer curiously. It is +always an impressive picture: the tortured, maddened animal, whose thin +flanks are palpitating with his hot breath, his coat one shining mass of +blood from the darts and the spear-thrusts, his massive neck still +decked as in mockery with the fluttering flags, his fine head and muzzle +seeming sharpened by the hour's terrible experience, his formidable +horns crimsoned with onset; in front of this fiery bulk of force and +courage, the slight, sinewy frame of the killer, whose only reliance is +on his coolness and his intellect. I never saw a matador come carelessly +to his work. He is usually pale and alert. He studies the bull for a +moment with all his eyes. He waves the blood-red engano, or lure, before +his face. If the bull rushes at it with his eyes shut, the work is easy. +He has only to select his own stroke and make it. But if the bull is +jealous and sly, it requires the most careful management to kill him. +The disposition of the bull is developed by a few rapid passes of the +red flag. This must not be continued too long: the tension of the nerves +of the auditory will not bear trifling. I remember one day the crowd was +aroused to fury by a bugler from the adjoining barracks playing retreat +at the moment of decision. All at once the matador seizes the favorable +instant. He poises his sword as the bull rushes upon him. The point +enters just between the left shoulder and the spine; the long blade +glides in up to the hilt. The bull reels and staggers and dies. +Sometimes the matador severs the vertebrae. The effect is like magic. He +lays the point of his sword between the bull's horns, as lightly as a +lady who touches her cavalier with her fan, and he falls dead as a +stone. + +If the blow is a clean, well-delivered one, the enthusiasm of the people +is unbounded. Their approval comes up in a thunderous shout of "Well +done! Valiente! Viva!" A brown shower of cigars rains on the sand. The +victor gathers them up: they fill his hands, his pockets, his hat. He +gives them to his friends, and the aromatic shower continues. Hundreds +of hats are flung into the ring. He picks them up and shies them back to +their shouting owners. Sometimes a dollar is mingled with the flying +compliments; but the enthusiasm of the Spaniard rarely carries him so +far as that. For ten minutes after a good estocada, the matador is the +most popular man in Spain. + +But the trumpets sound again, the door of the Toril flies open, another +bull comes rushing out, and the present interest quenches the past. The +play begins again, with its sameness of purpose and its infinite variety +of incident. + +It is not quite accurate to say, as is often said, that the bull-fighter +runs no risk. El Tato, the first sword of Spain, lost his leg in 1869, +and his life was saved by the coolness and courage of Lagartijo, who +succeeded him in the championship, and who was terribly wounded in the +foot the next summer. Arjona killed a bull in the same year, which +tossed and ruptured him after receiving his death-blow. Pepe Illo died +in harness, on the sand. Every year picadors, chulos, and such small +deer are killed, without gossip. I must copy the inscription on the +sword which Tato presented to Lagartijo, as a specimen of tauromachian +literature:-- + +"If, as philosophers say, gratitude is the tribute of noble souls, +accept, dear Lagartijo, this present; preserve it as a sacred relic, for +it symbolizes the memory of my glories, and is at the same time the mute +witness of my misfortune. With it I killed my last bull named +_Peregrino,_ bred by D. Vicente Martinez, fourth of the fight of the 7th +June, 1869, in which act I received the wound which has caused the +amputation of my right leg. The will of man can do nothing against the +designs of Providence. Nothing but resignation is left to thy +affectionate friend, Antonio Sanchez [Tato]." + +It is in consideration of the mingled skill and danger of the trade, +that such enormous fees are paid the principal performers. The leading +swordsmen receive about three hundred dollars for each performance, and +they are eagerly disputed by the direction of all the arenas of Spain. +In spite of these large wages, they are rarely rich. They are as +wasteful and improvident as gamblers. Tato, when he lost his leg, lost +his means of subsistence, and his comrades organized one or two benefits +to keep him from want. Cuchares died in the Havana, and left no +provision for his family. + +There is a curious naivete in the play-bill of a bull-fight, the only +conscientious public document I have seen in Spain. You know how we of +Northern blood exaggerate the attractions of all sorts of shows, +trusting to the magnanimity of the audience. "He warn't nothing like so +little as that," confesses Mr. Magsman, "but where's your dwarf what +is?" There are few who have the moral courage to demand their money back +because they counted but thirty-nine thieves when the bills promised +forty. But the management of the Madrid bull-ring knows its public too +well to promise more than it is sure of performing. It announces six +bulls, and positively no more. It says there will be no use of +bloodhounds. It promises two picadors, with three others in reserve, and +warns the public that if all five become inutilized in the combat, no +more will be issued. With so fair a preliminary statement, what crowd, +however inflammable, could mob the management? + +Some industrious and ascetic statistician has visited Spain and +interested himself in the bullring. Here are some of the results of his +researches. In 1864 the number of places in all the taurine +establishments of Spain was 509,283, of which 246,813 belonged to the +cities, and 262,470 to the country. + +In the year 1864, there were 427 bull-fights, of which 294 took place in +the cities, and 13 3 in the country towns. The receipts of ninety-eight +bullrings in 1864 reached the enormous sum of two hundred and seventeen +and a half millions of reals (nearly $11,000,000). The 427 bull-fights +which took place in Spain during the year 1864 caused the death of 2989 +of these fine animals, and about 7473 horses,--something more than half +the number of the cavalry of Spain. These wasted victims could have +ploughed three hundred thousand hectares of land, which would have +produced a million and a half hectolitres of grain, worth eighty +millions of reals; all this without counting the cost of the slaughtered +cattle, worth say seven or eight millions, at a moderate calculation. + +Thus far the Arithmetic Man; to whom responds the tauromachian +aficionado: That the bulk of this income goes to purposes of charity; +that were there no bull-fights, bulls of good race would cease to be +bred; that nobody ever saw a horse in a bull-ring that could plough a +furrow of a hundred yards without giving up the ghost; that the nerve, +dexterity, and knowledge of brute nature gained in the arena is a good +thing to have in the country; that, in short, it is our way of amusing +ourselves, and if you don't like it you can go home and cultivate +prize-fighters, or kill two-year-old colts on the racecourse, or murder +jockeys in hurdle-races, or break your own necks in steeple-chases, or +in search of wilder excitement thicken your blood with beer or burn your +souls out with whiskey. + +And this is all we get by our well-meant effort to convince Spaniards of +the brutality of bullfights. Must Chicago be virtuous before I can +object to Madrid ale, and say that its cakes are unduly gingered? + +Yet even those who most stoutly defend the bull-fight feel that its +glory has departed and that it has entered into the era of full +decadence. I was talking one evening with a Castilian gentleman, one of +those who cling with most persistence to the national traditions, and he +confessed that the noble art was wounded to death. "I do not refer, as +many do, to the change from the old times, when gentlemen fought on +their own horses in the ring. That was nonsense, and could not survive +the time of Cervantes. Life is too short to learn bull-fighting. A +grandee of Spain, if he knows anything else, would make a sorry torero. +The good times of the art are more modern. I saw the short day of the +glory of the ring when I was a boy. There was a race of gladiators then, +such as the world will never see again,--mighty fighters before the +king. Pepe Illo and Costillares, Romero and Paco Montes,--the world does +not contain the stuff to make their counterparts. They were serious, +earnest men. They would have let their right arms wither before they +would have courted the applause of the mob by killing a bull outside of +the severe traditions. Compare them with the men of to-day, with your +Rafael Molina, who allows himself to be gored, playing with a heifer; +with your frivolous boys like Frascuelo. I have seen the ring convulsed +with laughter as that buffoon strutted across the arena, flirting his +muleta as a manola does her skirts, the bewildered bull not knowing what +to make of it. It was enough to make Illo turn in his bloody grave. + +"Why, my young friend, I remember when bulls were a dignified and +serious matter; when we kept account of their progress from their +pasture to the capital. We had accounts of their condition by couriers +and carrier-pigeons. On the day when they appeared it was a high +festival in the court. All the sombreros in Spain were there, the ladies +in national dress with white mantillas. The young queen always in her +palco (may God guard her). The fighters of that day were high priests of +art; there was something of veneration in the regard that was paid them. +Duchesses threw them bouquets with billets-doux. Gossip and newspapers +have destroyed the romance of common life. + +"The only pleasure I take in the Plaza de Toros now is at night. The +custodians know me and let me moon about in the dark. When all that is +ignoble and mean has faded away with the daylight, it seems to me the +ghosts of the old time come back upon the sands. I can fancy the patter +of light hoofs, the glancing of spectral horns. I can imagine the agile +tread of Romero, the deadly thrust of Montes, the whisper of +long-vanished applause, and the clapping of ghostly hands. I am growing +too old for such skylarking, and I sometimes come away with a cold in my +head. But you will never see a bull-fight you can enjoy as I do these +visionary festivals, where memory is the corregidor, and where the only +spectators are the stars and I." + + + + +RED-LETTER DAYS + + +No people embrace more readily than the Spaniards the opportunity of +spending a day without work. Their frequent holidays are a relic of the +days when the Church stood between the people and their taskmasters, and +fastened more firmly its hold upon the hearts of the ignorant and +overworked masses, by becoming at once the fountain of salvation in the +next world, and of rest in this. The government rather encouraged this +growth of play-days, as the Italian Bourbons used to foster mendicancy, +by way of keeping the people as unthrifty as possible. Lazzaroni are so +much more easily managed than burghers! + +It is only the holy days that are successfully celebrated in Spain. The +state has tried of late years to consecrate to idle parade a few +revolutionary dates, but they have no vigorous national life. They grow +feebler and more colorless year by year, because they have no depth of +earth. + +The most considerable of these national festivals is the 2d of May, +which commemorates the slaughter of patriots in the streets of Madrid by +Murat. This is a political holiday which appeals more strongly to the +national character of the Spaniards than any other. The mingled pride of +race and ignorant hate of everything foreign which constitutes that +singular passion called Spanish patriotism, or Espanolismo, is fully +called into play by the recollections of the terrible scenes of their +war of independence, which drove out a foreign king, and brought back +into Spain a native despot infinitely meaner and more injurious. It is +an impressive study in national character and thought, this +self-satisfaction of even liberal Spaniards at the reflection that, by a +vast and supreme effort of the nation, after countless sacrifices and +with the aid of coalesced Europe, they exchanged Joseph Bonaparte for +Ferdinand VII. and the Inquisition. But the victims of the Dos de Mayo +fell fighting. Daoiz, Velarde, and Ruiz were bayoneted at their guns, +scorning surrender. The alcalde of Mostoles, a petty village of Castile, +called on Spain to rise against the tyrant. And Spain obeyed the summons +of this cross-roads justice. The contempt of probabilities, the +Quixotism of these successive demonstrations, endear them to the Spanish +heart. + +Every 2d of May the city of Madrid gives up the day to funeral honors to +the dead of 1808. The city government, attended by its Maceros, in their +gorgeous robes of gold and scarlet, with silver maces and long white +plumes; the public institutions of all grades, with invalids and +veterans and charity children; a large detachment of the army and +navy,--form a vast procession at the Town Hall, and, headed by the +Supreme Government, march to slow music through the Puerta del Sol and +the spacious Alcala street to the granite obelisk in the Prado which +marks the resting-place of the patriot dead. I saw the regent of the +kingdom, surrounded by his cabinet, sauntering all a summer's afternoon +under a blazing sun over the dusty mile that separates the monument from +the Ayuntamiento. The Spaniards are hopelessly inefficient in these +matters. The people always fill the line of march, and a rivulet of +procession meanders feebly through a wilderness of mob. It is fortunate +that the crowd is more entertaining than the show. + +The Church has a very indifferent part in this ceremonial. It does +nothing more than celebrate a mass in the shade of the dark cypresses in +the Place of Loyalty, and then leaves the field clear to the secular +power. But this is the only purely civic ceremony I ever saw in Spain. +The Church is lord of the holidays for the rest of the year. + +In the middle of May comes the feast of the ploughboy patron of +Madrid,--San Isidro. He was a true Madrileno in tastes, and spent his +time lying in the summer shade or basking in the winter sunshine, seeing +visions, while angels came down from heaven and did his farm chores for +him. The angels are less amiable nowadays, but every true child of +Madrid reveres the example and envies the success of the San Isidro +method of doing business. In the process of years this lazy lout has +become a great saint, and his bones have done more extensive and +remarkable miracle-work than any equal amount of phosphate in existence. +In desperate cases of sufficient rank the doctors throw up the sponge +and send for Isidro's urn, and the drugging having ceased, the noble +patient frequently recovers, and much honor and profit comes thereby to +the shrine of the saint. There is something of the toady in Isidro's +composition. You never hear of his curing any one of less than princely +rank. I read in an old chronicle of Madrid, that once when Queen Isabel +the Catholic was hunting in the hills that overlook the Manzanares, near +what is now the oldest and quaintest quarter of the capital, she killed +a bear of great size and ferocity; and doubtless thinking it might not +be considered lady-like to have done it unassisted, she gave San Isidro +the credit of the lucky blow and built him a nice new chapel for it near +the Church of San Andres. If there are any doubters, let them go and see +the chapel, as I did. When the allied armies of the Christian kings of +Spain were seeking for a passage through the hills to the Plains of +Tolosa, a shepherd appeared and led them straight to victory and endless +fame. After the battle, which broke the Moorish power forever in Central +Spain, instead of looking for the shepherd and paying him handsomely for +his timely scout-service, they found it more pious and economical to say +it was San Isidro in person who had kindly made himself flesh for this +occasion. By the great altar in the Cathedral of Toledo stand side by +side the statues of Alonso VIIL, the Christian commander, and San Isidro +brazenly swelling in the shepherd garb of that unknown guide who led +Alonso and his chivalry through the tangled defiles of the Sierra +Morena. + +His fete is the Derby Day of Madrid. The whole town goes out to his +Hermitage on the further banks of the Manzanares, and spends a day or +two of the soft spring weather in noisy frolic. The little church stands +on a bare brown hill, and all about it is an improvised village +consisting half of restaurants and the other half of toyshops. The +principal traffic is in a pretty sort of glass whistle which forms the +stem of an artificial rose, worn in the button-hole in the intervals of +tooting, and little earthen pig-bells, whose ringing scares away the +lightning. There is but one duty of the day to flavor all its pleasures. +The faithful must go into the oratory, pay a penny, and kiss a +glass-covered relic of the saint which the attendant ecclesiastic holds +in his hand. The bells are rung violently until the church is full; then +the doors are shut and the kissing begins. They are very expeditious +about it. The worshippers drop on their knees by platoons before the +railing. The long-robed relic-keeper puts the precious trinket rapidly +to their lips; an acolyte follows with a saucer for the cash. The glass +grows humid with many breaths. The priest wipes it with a dirty napkin +from time to time. The multitude advances, kisses, pays, and retires, +till all have their blessing; then the doors are opened and they all +pass out,--the bells ringing furiously for another detachment. The +pleasures of the day are like those of all fairs and public merrymaking. +Working-people come to be idle, and idle people come to have something +to do. There is much eating and little drinking. The milk-stalls are +busier than the wine-shops. The people are gay and jolly, but very +decent and clean and orderly. To the east of the Hermitage, over and +beyond the green cool valley, the city rises on its rocky hills, its +spires shining in the cloudless blue. Below on the emerald meadows there +are the tents and wagons of those who have come from a distance to the +Romeria. The sound of guitars and the drone of peasant songs come up the +hill, and groups of men are leaping in the wild barbaric dances of +Iberia. The scene is of another day and time. The Celt is here, lord of +the land. You can see these same faces at Donnybrook Fair. These +large-mouthed, short-nosed, rosy-cheeked peasant-girls are called +Dolores and Catalina, but they might be called Bridget and Kathleen. +These strapping fellows, with long simian upper lips, with brown +leggings and patched, mud-colored overcoats, who are leaping and +swinging their cudgels in that Pyrrhic round are as good Tipperary boys +as ever mobbed an agent or pounded, twenty to one, a landlord to death. +The same unquestioning, fervent faith, the same superficial good-nature, +the same facility to be amused, and at bottom the same cowardly and +cruel blood-thirst. What is this mysterious law of race which is +stronger than time, or varying climates, or changing institutions? Which +is cause, and which is effect, race or religion? + +The great Church holiday of the year is Corpus Christi. On this day the +Host is carried in solemn procession through the principal streets, +attended by the high officers of state, several battalions of each arm +of the service in fresh bright uniforms, and a vast array of +ecclesiastics in the most gorgeous stoles and chasubles their vestiary +contains. The windows along the line of march are gayly decked with +flags and tapestry. Work is absolutely suspended, and the entire +population dons its holiday garb. The Puerta del Sol--at this season +blazing with relentless light--is crowded with patient Madrilenos in +their best clothes, the brown-cheeked maidens with flowing silks as in a +ball-room, and with no protection against the ardent sky but the +fluttering fan they hold in their ungloved hands. As everything is +behind time in this easy-going land, there are two or three hours of +broiling gossip on the glowing pavement before the Sacred Presence is +announced by the ringing of silver bells. As the superb structure of +filigree gold goes by, a movement of reverent worship vibrates through +the crowd. Forgetful of silks and broadcloth and gossip, they fall on +their knees in one party-colored mass, and, bowing their heads and +beating their breasts, they mutter their mechanical prayers. There are +thinking men who say these shows are necessary; that the Latin mind must +see with bodily eyes the thing it worships, or the worship will fade +away from its heart. If there were no cathedrals and masses, they say, +there would be no religion; if there were no king, there would be no +law. But we should not accept too hurriedly this ethnological theory of +necessity, which would reject all principles of progress and positive +good, and condemn half the human race to perpetual childhood. There was +a time when we Anglo-Saxons built cathedrals and worshipped the king. +Look at Salisbury and Lincoln and Ely; read the history of the growth of +parliaments. There is nothing more beautifully sensuous than the +religious spirit that presided over those master works of English +Gothic; there is nothing in life more abject than the relics of the +English love and fear of princes. But the steady growth of centuries has +left nothing but the outworn shell of the old religion and the old +loyalty. The churches and the castles still exist. The name of the king +still is extant in the constitution. They remain as objects of taste and +tradition, hallowed by a thousand memories of earlier days, but, thanks +be to God who has given us the victory, the English race is now +incapable of making a new cathedral or a new king. + +Let us not in our safe egotism deny to others the possibility of a like +improvement. + +This summery month of June is rich in saints. The great apostles, John, +Peter, and Paul, have their anniversaries on its closing days, and the +shortest nights of the year are given up to the riotous eating of +fritters in their honor. I am afraid that the progress of luxury and +love of ease has wrought a change in the observance of these festivals. +The feast of midsummer night is called the Verbena of St. John, which +indicates that it was formerly a morning solemnity, as the vervain could +not be hunted by the youths and maidens of Spain with any success or +decorum at midnight. But of late years it may be that this useful and +fragrant herb has disappeared from the tawny hills of Castile. It is +sure that midsummer has grown too warm for any field work. So that the +Madrilenos may be pardoned for spending the day napping, and swarming +into the breezy Prado in the light of moon and stars and gas. The Prado +is ordinarily the promenade of the better classes, but every Spanish +family has its John, Paul, and Peter, and the crowded barrios of Toledo +and the Penue-las pour out their ragged hordes to the popular festival. +The scene has a strange gypsy wildness. From the round point of Atocha +to where Cybele, throned among spouting waters, drives southward her +spanking team of marble lions, the park is filled with the merry +roysterers. At short intervals are the busy groups of fritter merchants; +over the crackling fire a great caldron of boiling oil; beside it a +mighty bowl of dough. The bunolero, with the swift precision of +machinery, dips his hand into the bowl and makes a delicate ring of the +tough dough, which he throws into the bubbling caldron. It remains but a +few seconds, and his grimy acolyte picks it out with a long wire and +throws it on the tray for sale. They are eaten warm, the droning cry +continually sounding, "Bunuelos! Calientitos!" There must be millions of +these oily dainties consumed on every night of the Verbena. For the more +genteel revellers, the Don Juans, Pedros, and Pablos of the better sort, +there are improvised restaurants built of pine planks after sunset and +gone before sunrise. But the greater number are bought and eaten by the +loitering crowd from the tray of the fritterman. It is like a vast +gitano-camp. The hurrying crowd which is going nowhere, the blazing +fires, the cries of the venders, the songs of the majos under the great +trees of the Paseo, the purposeless hurly-burly, and above, the steam of +the boiling oil and the dust raised by the myriad feet, form together a +striking and vivid picture. The city is more than usually quiet. The +stir of life is localized in the Prado. The only busy men in town are +those who stand by the seething oil-pots and manufacture the brittle +forage of the browsing herds. It is a jealous business, and requires the +undivided attention of its professors. The _ne sutor ultra crepidam_ of +Spanish proverb is "Bunolero haz tus bunuelos,"--Fritterman, mind thy +fritters. With the long days and cooler airs of the autumn begin the +different fairs. These are relics of the times of tyranny and exclusive +privilege, when for a few days each year, by the intervention of the +Church, or as a reward for civic service, full liberty of barter and +sale was allowed to all citizens. This custom, more or less modified, +may be found in most cities of Europe. The boulevards of Paris swarm +with little booths at Christmas-time, which begin and end their lawless +commercial life within the week. In Vienna, in Leipsic, and other +cities, the same waste-weir of irregular trade is periodically opened. +These fairs begin in Madrid with the autumnal equinox, and continue for +some weeks in October. They disappear from the Alcala to break out with +renewed virulence in the avenue of Atocha, and girdle the city at last +with a belt of booths. While they last they give great animation and +spirit to the street life of the town. You can scarcely make your way +among the heaps of gaudy shawls and handkerchiefs, cheap laces and +illegitimate jewels, that cumber the pavement. When the Jews were driven +out of Spain, they left behind the true genius of bargaining. + +A nut-brown maid is attracted by a brilliant red and yellow scarf. She +asks the sleepy merchant nodding before his wares, "What is this rag +worth?" + +He answers with profound indifference, "Ten reals." + +"Hombre! Are you dreaming or crazy?" She drops the coveted neck-gear, +and moves on, apparently horror-stricken. + +The chapman calls her back peremptorily. "Don't be rash! The scarf is +worth twenty reals, but for the sake of Santisima Maria I offered it to +you for half price. Very well! You are not suited. What will you give?" + +"Caramba! Am I buyer and seller as well? The thing is worth three reals; +more is a robbery." + +"Jesus! Maria! Jose! and all the family! Go thou with God! We cannot +trade. Sooner than sell for less than eight reals I will raise the cover +of my brains! Go thou! It is eight of the morning, and still thou +dreamest." + +She lays down the scarf reluctantly, saying, "Five?" + +But the outraged mercer snorts scornfully, "Eight is my last word! Go +to!" + +She moves away, thinking how well that scarf would look in the Apollo +Gardens, and casts over her shoulder a Parthian glance and bid, "Six!" + +"Take it! It is madness, but I cannot waste my time in bargaining." + +Both congratulate themselves on the operation. He would have taken five, +and she would have given seven. How trade would suffer if we had windows +in our breasts! + +The first days of November are consecrated to all the saints, and to the +souls of all the blessed dead. They are observed in Spain with great +solemnity; but as the cemeteries are generally of the dreariest +character, bare, bleak, and most forbidding under the ashy sky of the +late autumn, the days are deprived of that exquisite sentiment that +pervades them in countries where the graves of the dead are beautiful. +There is nothing more touching than these offerings of memory you see +every year in Mont Parnasse and Pere-la-Chaise. Apart from all beliefs, +there is a mysterious influence for good exerted upon the living by the +memory of the beloved dead. On all hearts not utterly corrupt, the +thoughts that come by the graves of the departed fall like dew from +heaven, and quicken into life purer and higher resolves. + +In Spain, where there is nothing but desolation in graveyards, the +churches are crowded instead, and the bereaved survivors commend to God +their departed friends and their own stricken hearts in the dim and +perfumed aisles of temples made with hands. A taint of gloom thus rests +upon the recollection and the prayer, far different from the consolation +that comes with the free air and the sunshine, and the infinite blue +vault, where Nature conspires with revelation to comfort and cherish and +console. + +Christmas apparently comes in Spain on no other mission than that +referred to in the old English couplet, "bringing good cheer." The +Spaniards are the most frugal of people, but during the days that +precede their Noche Buena, their Good Night, they seem to be given up as +completely to cares of the commissariat as the most eupeptic of Germans. +Swarms of turkeys are driven in from the surrounding country, and taken +about the streets by their rustic herdsmen, making the roads gay with +their scarlet wattles, and waking rural memories by their vociferous +gobbling. The great market-place of the season is the Plaza Mayor. The +ever-fruitful provinces of the South are laid under contribution, and +the result is a wasteful show of tropical luxuriance that seems most +incongruous under the wintry sky. There are mountains of oranges and +dates, brown hillocks of nuts of every kind, store of every product of +this versatile soil. The air is filled with nutty and fruity fragrance. +Under the ancient arcades are the stalls of the butchers, rich with the +mutton of Castile, the hams of Estremadura, and the hero-nourishing +bull-beef of Andalusian pastures. + +At night the town is given up to harmless racket. Nowhere has the +tradition of the Latin Saturnalia been fitted with less change into the +Christian calendar. Men, women, and children of the proletariat--the +unemancipated slaves of necessity--go out this night to cheat their +misery with noisy frolic. The owner of a tambourine is the equal of a +peer; the proprietor of a guitar is the captain of his hundred. They +troop through the dim city with discordant revel and song. They have +little idea of music. Every one sings and sings ill. Every one dances, +without grace or measure. Their music is a modulated howl of the East. +Their dancing is the savage leaping of barbarians. There is no lack of +couplets, religious, political, or amatory. I heard one ragged woman +with a brown baby at her breast go shrieking through the Street of the +Magdalen,-- + + "This is the eve of Christmas, + No sleep from now till morn, + The Virgin is in travail, + At twelve will the child be born!" + +Behind her stumped a crippled beggar, who croaked in a voice rough with +frost and aguardiente his deep disillusion and distrust of the great:-- + + "This is the eve of Christmas, + But what is that to me? + We are ruled by thieves and robbers, + As it was and will always be." + +Next comes a shouting band of the youth of Spain, strapping boys with +bushy locks, crisp and black almost to blueness, and gay young girls +with flexible forms and dark Arab eyes that shine with a phosphorescent +light in the shadows. They troop on with clacking castinets. The +challenge of the mozos rings out on the frosty air,-- + + "This is the eve of Christmas, + Let us drink and love our fill!" + +And the saucy antiphon of girlish voices responds,-- + + "A man may be bearded and gray, + But a woman can fool him still!" + +The Christmas and New-Year's holidays continue for a fortnight, ending +with the Epiphany. On the eve of the Day of the Kings a curious farce is +performed by bands of the lowest orders of the people, which +demonstrates the apparently endless naivete of their class. In every +coterie of water-carriers, or mozos de cordel, there will be one found +innocent enough to believe that the Magi are coming to Madrid that +night, and that a proper respect to their rank requires that they must +be met at the city gate. To perceive the coming of their feet, beautiful +upon the mountains, a ladder is necessary, and the poor victim of the +comedy is loaded with this indispensable "property." He is dragged by +his gay companions, who never tire of the exquisite wit of their jest, +from one gate to another, until suspicion supplants faith in the mind of +the neophyte, and the farce is over. + +In the burgher society of Castile this night is devoted to a very +different ceremony. Each little social circle comes together in a house +agreed upon. They take mottoes of gilded paper and write on each the +name of some one of the company. The names of the ladies are thrown into +one urn, and those of the cavaliers into another, and they are drawn out +by pairs. These couples are thus condemned by fortune to intimacy during +the year. The gentleman is always to be at the orders of the dame and to +serve her faithfully in every knightly fashion. He has all the duties +and none of the privileges of a lover, unless it be the joy of those +"who stand and wait." The relation is very like that which so astonished +M. de Gramont in his visit to Piedmont, where the cavalier of service +never left his mistress in public and never approached her in private. + +The true Carnival survives in its naive purity only in Spain. It has +faded in Rome into a romping day of clown's play. In Paris it is little +more than a busier season for dreary and professional vice. Elsewhere +all over the world the Carnival gayeties are confined to the salon. But +in Madrid the whole city, from grandee to cordwainer, goes with +childlike earnestness into the enjoyment of the hour. The Corso begins +in the Prado on the last Sunday before Lent, and lasts four days. From +noon to night the great drive is filled with a double line of carriages +two miles long, and between them are the landaus of the favored hundreds +who have the privilege of driving up and down free from the law of the +road. This right is acquired by the payment of ten dollars a day to city +charities, and produces some fifteen thousand dollars every Carnival. In +these carriages all the society of Madrid may be seen; and on foot, +darting in and out among the hoofs of the horses, are the young men of +Castile in every conceivable variety of absurd and fantastic disguise. +There are of course pirates and Indians and Turks, monks, prophets, and +kings, but the favorite costumes seem to be the Devil and the +Englishman. Sometimes the Yankee is attempted, with indifferent success. +He wears a ribbon-wreathed Italian bandit's hat, an embroidered jacket, +slashed buckskin trousers, and a wide crimson belt,--a dress you would +at once recognize as universal in Boston. + +Most of the maskers know by name at least the occupants of the +carriages. There is always room for a mask in a coach. They leap in, +swarming over the back or the sides, and in their shrill monotonous +scream they make the most startling revelations of the inmost secrets of +your soul. There is always something impressive in the talk of an +unknown voice, but especially is this so in Madrid, where every one +scorns his own business, and devotes himself rigorously to his +neighbor's. These shrieking young monks and devilkins often surprise a +half-formed thought in the heart of a fair Castilian and drag it out +into day and derision. No one has the right to be offended. Duchesses +are called Tu! Isabel! by chin-dimpled school-boys, and the proudest +beauties in Spain accept bonbons from plebeian hands. It is true, most +of the maskers are of the better class. Some of the costumes are very +rich and expensive, of satin and velvet heavy with gold. I have seen a +distinguished diplomatist in the guise of a gigantic canary-bird, +hopping briskly about in the mud with bedraggled tail-feathers, +shrieking well-bred sarcasms with his yellow beak. + +The charm of the Madrid Carnival is this, that it is respected and +believed in. The best and fairest pass the day in the Corso, and gallant +young gentlemen think it worth while to dress elaborately for a few +hours of harmless and spirituelle intrigue. A society that enjoys a +holiday so thoroughly has something in it better than the blase cynicism +of more civilized capitals. These young fellows talk like the lovers of +the old romances. I have never heard prettier periods of devotion than +from some gentle savage, stretched out on the front seat of a landau +under the peering eyes of his lady, safe in his disguise, if not +self-betrayed, pouring out his young soul in passionate praise and +prayer; around them the laughter and the cries, the cracking of whips, +the roll of wheels, the presence of countless thousands, and yet these +two young hearts alone under the pale winter sky. The rest of the +Continent has outgrown the true Carnival. It is pleasant to see this gay +relic of simpler times, when youth was young. No one here is too "swell" +for it. You may find a duke in the disguise of a chimney-sweep, or a +butcher-boy in the dress of a Crusader. There are none so great that +their dignity would suffer by a day's reckless foolery, and there are +none so poor that they cannot take the price of a dinner to buy a mask +and cheat their misery by mingling for a time with their betters in the +wild license of the Carnival. + +The winter's gayety dies hard. Ash Wednesday is a day of loud merriment +and is devoted to a popular ceremony called the Burial of the Sardine. A +vast throng of workingmen carry with great pomp a link of sausage to the +bank of the Manzanares and inter it there with great solemnity. On the +following Saturday, after three days of death, the Carnival has a +resurrection, and the maddest, wildest ball of the year takes place at +the opera. Then the sackcloth and ashes of Lent come down in good +earnest and the town mourns over its scarlet sins. It used to be very +fashionable for the genteel Christians to repair during this season of +mortification to the Church of San Gines, and scourge themselves lustily +in its subterranean chambers. A still more striking demonstration was +for gentlemen in love to lash themselves on the sidewalks where passed +the ladies of their thoughts. If the blood from the scourges sprinkled +them as they sailed by, it was thought an attention no female heart +could withstand. But these wholesome customs have decayed of late +unbelieving years. + +The Lenten piety increases with the lengthening days. It reaches its +climax on Holy Thursday. On this day all Spain goes to church: it is one +of the obligatory days. The more you go, the better for you; so the good +people spend the whole day from dawn to dusk roaming from one church to +another, and investing an Ave and a Pater-Noster in each. This fills +every street of the city with the pious crowd. No carriages are +permitted. A silence like that of Venice falls on the rattling capital. +With three hundred thousand people in the street, the town seems still. +In 1870, a free-thinking cabman dared to drive up the Calle Alcala. He +was dragged from his box and beaten half to death by the chastened +mourners, who yelled as they kicked and cuffed him, "Que bruto! He will +wake our Jesus." + +On Good Friday the gloom deepens. No colors are worn that day by the +orthodox. The senoras appear on the street in funeral garb. I saw a +group of fast youths come out of the jockey club, black from hat to +boots, with jet studs and sleeve-buttons. The gayest and prettiest +ladies sit within the church doors and beg in the holy name of charity, +and earn large sums for the poor. There are hourly services in the +churches, passionate sermons from all the pulpits. The streets are free +from the painted haunters of the pavement. The whole people taste the +luxury of a sentimental sorrow. + +Yet in these heavy days it is not the Redeemer whose sufferings and +death most nearly touch the hearts of the faithful. It is Santisima +Maria who is worshipped most. It is the Dolorous Mother who moves them +to tears of tenderness. The presiding deity of these final days of +meditation is Our Lady of Solitude. + +But at last the days of mourning are accomplished. The expiation for sin +is finished. The grave is vanquished, death is swallowed up in victory. +Man can turn from the grief that is natural to the joy that is eternal. +From every steeple the bells fling out their happy clangor in glad +tidings of great joy. The streets are flooded once more with eager +multitudes, gay as in wedding garments. Christ has arisen! The heathen +myth of the awakening of nature blends the old tradition with the new +gospel. The vernal breezes sweep the skies clean and blue. Birds are +pairing in the budding trees. The streams leap down from the melting +snow of the hills. The brown turf takes a tint of verdure. Through the +vast frame of things runs a quick shudder of teeming power. In the heart +of man love and will mingle into hope. Hail to the new life and the +ever-new religion! Hail to the resurrection morning! + + + + +AN HOUR WITH THE PAINTERS + + +As a general thing it is well to distrust a Spaniard's superlatives. He +will tell you that his people are the most amiable in the world, but you +will do well to carry your revolver into the interior. He will say there +are no wines worth drinking but the Spanish, but you will scarcely +forswear Clicquot and Yquem on the mere faith of his assertion. A +distinguished general once gravely assured me that there was no +literature in the world at all to be compared with the productions of +the Castilian mind. All others, he said, were but pale imitations of +Spanish master-work. + +Now, though you may be shocked at learning such unfavorable facts of +'Shakespeare and Goethe and Hugo, you will hardly condemn them to an +Auto da fe, on the testimony even of a grandee of Spain. + +But when a Spaniard assures you that the picture-gallery of Madrid is +the finest in the world, you may believe him without reserve. He +probably does not know what he is talking about. He may never have +crossed the Pyrenees. He has no dream of the glories of Dresden, or +Florence, or the Louvre. It is even possible that he has not seen the +matchless collection he is boasting of. He crowns it with a sweeping +superlative simply because it is Spanish. But the statement is +nevertheless true. + +The reason of this is found in that gigantic and overshadowing fact +which seems to be an explanation of everything in Spain,--the power and +the tyranny of the House of Austria. The period of the vast increase of +Spanish dominion coincided with that of the meridian glory of Italian +art. The conquest of Granada was finished as the divine child Raphael +began to meddle with his father's brushes and pallets, and before his +short life ended Charles, Burgess of Ghent, was emperor and king. + +The dominions he governed and transmitted to his son embraced Spain, the +Netherlands, Franche-Comte, the Milanese, Naples, and Sicily; that is to +say, those regions where art in that age and the next attained its +supreme development. He was also lord of the New World, whose +inexhaustible mines poured into the lap of Europe a constant stream of +gold. Hence came the riches and the leisure necessary to art. + +Charles V., as well as his great contemporary and rival, Francis I., was +a munificent protector of art. He brought from Italy and Antwerp some of +the most perfect products of their immortal masters. He was the friend +and patron of Titian, and when, weary of the world and its vanities, he +retired to the lonely monastery of Yuste to spend in devout +contemplation the evening of his days, the most precious solace of his +solitude was that noble canvas of the great Venetian, where Charles and +Philip are borne, in penitential guise and garb, on luminous clouds into +the visible glory of the Most High. + +These two great kings made a good use of their unbounded opportunities. +Spain became illuminated with the glowing canvases of the incomparable +Italians. The opening up of the New World beyond seas, the meteoric +career of European and African conquest in which the emperor had won so +much land and glory, had given an awakening shock to the intelligent +youth of Spain, and sent them forth in every avenue of enterprise. This +jealously patriotic race, which had remained locked up by the mountains +and the seas for centuries, started suddenly out, seeking adventures +over the earth. The mind of Spain seemed suddenly to have brightened and +developed like that of her great king, who, in his first tourney at +Valladolid, wrote with proud sluggishness _Nondum_--not yet--on his +maiden shield, and a few years later in his young maturity adopted the +legend of arrogant hope and promise,--_Plus Ultra._ There were seen two +emigrations of the young men of Spain, eastward and westward. The latter +went for gold and material conquest into the American wilds; and the +former, led by the sacred love of art, to that land of beauty and +wonder, then, now, and always the spiritual shrine of all +peoples,--Italy. + +A brilliant young army went out from Spain on this new crusade of the +beautiful. From the plains of Castile and the hills of Navarre went, +among others, Berruguete, Becerra, and the marvellous deaf-mute +Navarrete. The luxurious city of Valentia sent Juan de Juanes and +Ribalta. Luis de Vargas went out from Seville, and from Cordova the +scholar, artist, and thinker, Paul of Cespedes. The schools of Rome and +Venice and Florence were thronged with eager pilgrims, speaking an alien +Latin and filled with a childlike wonder and appreciation. + +In that stirring age the emigration was not all in one direction. Many +distinguished foreigners came down to Spain, to profit by the new love +of art in the Peninsula. It was Philip of Burgundy who carved, with +Berruguete, those miracles of skill and patience we admire to-day in the +choir of Toledo. Peter of Champagne painted at Seville the grand +altar-piece that so comforted the eyes and the soul of Murillo. The wild +Greek bedouin, George Theotocopouli, built the Mozarabic chapel and +filled the walls of convents with his weird ghost-faces. Moor, or Moro, +came from the Low Countries, and the Carducci brothers from Italy, to +seek their fortunes in Madrid. Torrigiani, after breaking Michael +Angelo's nose in Florence, fled to Granada, and died in a prison of the +Inquisition for smashing the face of a Virgin which a grandee of Spain +wanted to steal from him. + +These immigrations, and the refluent tide of Spanish students from +Italy, founded the various schools of Valentia, Toledo, Seville, and +Madrid. Madrid soon absorbed the school of Toledo, and the attraction of +Seville was too powerful for Valentia. The Andalusian school counts +among its early illustrations Vargas, Roelas, the Castillos, Herrera, +Pacheco, and Moya, and among its later glories Velazquez, Alonzo Cano, +Zurbaran, and Murillo, last and greatest of the mighty line. The school +of Madrid begins with Berruguete and Na-varrete, the Italians Caxes, +Rizi, and others, who are followed by Sanchez Coello, Pantoja, +Collantes. Then comes the great invader Velazquez, followed by his +retainers Pareja and Carreno, and absorbs the whole life of the school. +Claudio Coello makes a good fight against the rapid decadence. Luca +Giordano comes rattling in from Naples with his whitewash-brush, +painting a mile a minute, and classic art is ended in Spain with the +brief and conscientious work of Raphael Mengs. + +There is therefore little distinction of schools in Spain. Murillo, the +glory of Seville, studied in Madrid, and the mighty Andalusian, +Velazquez, performed his enormous life's work in the capital of Castile. + +It now needs but one word to show how the Museum of Madrid became so +rich in masterpieces. During the long and brilliant reigns of Charles V. +and Philip II., when art had arrived at its apogee in Italy, and was +just beginning its splendid career in Spain, these powerful monarchs had +the lion's share of all the best work that was done in the world. There +was no artist so great but he was honored by the commands of these lords +of the two worlds. They thus formed in their various palaces, +pleasure-houses, and cloisters a priceless collection of pictures +produced in the dawn of the Spanish and the triumphant hey-day of +Italian genius. Their frivolous successors lost provinces and kingdoms, +honor and prestige, but they never lost their royal prerogative nor +their taste for the arts. They consoled themselves for the slings and +arrows of outrageous fortune by the delights of sensual life, and +imagined they preserved some distant likeness to their great forerunners +by encouraging and protecting Velazquez and Lope de Vega and other +intellectual giants of that decaying age. So while, as the result of a +vicious system of kingly and spiritual thraldom, the intellect of Spain +was forced away from its legitimate channels of thought and action, +under the shadow of the royal prerogative, which survived the genuine +power of the older kings, art flourished and bloomed, unsuspected and +unpersecuted by the coward jealousy of courtier and monk. + +The palace and the convent divided the product of those marvellous days. +Amid all the poverty of the failing state, it was still the king and +clergy who were best able to appropriate the works of genius. This may +have contributed to the decay of art. The immortal canvases passed into +oblivion in the salons of palaces and the cells of monasteries. Had they +been scattered over the land and seen by the people, they might have +kept alive the spark that kindled their creators. But exclu-siveness is +inevitably followed by barrenness. When the great race of Spanish +artists ended, these matchless works were kept in the safe obscurity of +palaces and religious establishments. History was working in the +interests of this Museum. The pictures were held by the clenched dead +hand of the Church and the throne. They could not be sold or +distributed. They made the dark places luminous, patiently biding their +time. + +It was long enough coming, and it was a despicable hand that brought +them into the light. Ferdinand VII. thought his palace would look +fresher if the walls were covered with French paper, and so packed all +the pictures off to the empty building on the Prado, which his +grandfather had built for a museum. As soon as the glorious collection +was exposed to the gaze of the world, its incontestable merit was at +once recognized. Especially were the works of Velazquez, hitherto almost +an unknown name in Europe, admired and appreciated. Ferdinand, finding +he had done a clever thing unawares, began to put on airs and poser for +a patron of art. The gallery was still further immensely enriched on the +exclaustra-tion of the monasteries, by the hidden treasures of the +Escorial, and other spoils of mortmain. And now, as a collection of +masterpieces, it has no equal in the world. + +A few figures will prove this. It contains more than two thousand +pictures already catalogued,--all of them worth a place on the walls. +Among these there are ten by Raphael, forty-three by Titian, thirty-four +by Tintoret, twenty-five by Paul Veronese. Rubens has the enormous +contingent of sixty-four. Of Teniers, whose works are sold for fabulous +sums for the square inch, this extraordinary museum possesses no less +than sixty finished pictures,--the Louvre considers itself rich with +fourteen. So much for a few of the foreigners. Among the Spaniards the +three greatest names could alone fill a gallery. There are sixty-five +Velazquez, forty-six Murillos, and fifty-eight Riberas. Compare these +figures with those of any other gallery in existence, and you will at +once recognize the hopeless superiority of this collection. It is not +only the greatest collection in the world, but the greatest that can +ever be made until this is broken up. + +But with all this mass of wealth it is not a complete, nor, properly +speaking, a representative museum. You cannot trace upon its walls the +slow, groping progress of art towards perfection. It contains few of +what the book-lovers call _incunabula._ Spanish art sprang out +full-armed from the mature brain of Rome. Juan de Juanes carne back from +Italy a great artist. The schools of Spain were budded on a full-bearing +tree. Charles and Philip bought masterpieces, and cared Jittle for the +crude efforts of the awkward pencils of the necessary men who came +before Raphael. There is not a Perugino in Madrid. There is nothing +Byzantine, no trace of Renaissance; nothing of the patient work of the +early Flemings,--the art of Flanders comes blazing in with the full +splendor of Rubens and Van Dyck. And even among the masters, the +representation is most unequal. Among the wilderness of Titians and +Tintorets you find but two Domenichinos and two Correg-gios. Even in +Spanish art the gallery is far from complete. There is almost nothing +of such genuine painters as Zurbaran and Herrera. + +But recognizing all this, there is, in this glorious temple, enough to +fill the least enthusiastic lover of art with delight and adoration for +weeks and months together. If one knew he was to be blind in a year, +like the young musician in Auerbach's exquisite romance, I know of no +place in the world where he could garner up so precious a store of +memories for the days of darkness, memories that would haunt the soul +with so divine a light of consolation, as in that graceful Palace of the +Prado. + +It would be a hopeless task to attempt to review with any detail the +gems of this collection. My memory is filled with the countless canvases +that adorn the ten great halls. If I refer to my notebook I am equally +discouraged by the number I have marked for special notice. The +masterpieces are simply innumerable. I will say a word of each room, and +so give up the unequal contest. + +As you enter the Museum from the north, you are in a wide +sturdy-columned vestibule, hung with splashy pictures of Luca Giordano. +To your right is the room devoted to the Spanish school; to the left, +the Italian. In front is the grand gallery where the greatest works of +both schools are collected. In the Spanish saloon there is an +indefinable air of severity and gloom. It is less perfectly lighted than +some others, and there is something forbidding in the general tone of +the room. There are prim portraits of queens and princes, monks in +contemplation, and holy people in antres vast and deserts idle. Most +visitors come in from a sense of duty, look hurriedly about, and go out +with a conscience at ease; in fact, there is a dim suggestion of the +fagot and the rack about many of the Spanish masters. At one end of this +gallery the Prometheus of Ribera agonizes chained to his rock. His +gigantic limbs are flung about in the fury of immortal pain. A vulture, +almost lost in the blackness of the shadows, is tugging at his vitals. +His brow is convulsed with the pride and anguish of a demigod. It is a +picture of horrible power. Opposite hangs one of the few Zurbarans of +the gallery,--also a gloomy and terrible work. A monk kneels in shadows +which, by the masterly chiaroscuro of this ascetic artist, are made to +look darker than blackness. Before him in a luminous nimbus that burns +its way through the dark, is the image of the crucified Saviour, head +downwards. So remarkable is the vigor of the drawing and the power of +light in this picture that you can imagine you see the resplendent +crucifix suddenly thrust into the shadow by the strong hands of +invisible spirits, and swayed for a moment only before the dazzled eyes +of the ecstatic solitary. + +But after you have made friends with this room it will put off its +forbidding aspect, and you will find it hath a stern look but a gentle +heart. It has two lovely little landscapes by Murillo, showing how +universal was that wholesome genius. Also one of the largest landscapes +of Velazquez, which, when you stand near it, seems a confused mass of +brown daubs, but stepping back a few yards becomes a most perfect view +of the entrance to a royal park. The wide gate swings on its pivot +before your eyes. A court cortege moves in,--the long, dark alley +stretches off for miles directly in front, without any trick of lines or +curves; the artist has painted the shaded air. To the left a patch of +still water reflects the dark wood, and above there is a distant and +tranquil sky. Had Velazquez not done such vastly greater things, his few +landscapes would alone have won him fame enough. He has in this room a +large number of royal portraits,--one especially worth attention, of +Philip III. The scene is by the shore,--a cool foreground of sandy +beach,--a blue-gray stretch of rippled water, and beyond, a low +promontory between the curling waves and the cirrus clouds. The king +mounts a magnificent gray horse, with a mane and tail like the broken +rush of a cascade. The keeping is wonderful; a fresh sea breeze blows +out of the canvas. A brilliant bit of color is thrown into the red, +gold-fringed scarf of the horseman, fluttering backward over his +shoulder. Yet the face of the king is, as it should be, the principal +point of the picture,--the small-eyed, heavy-mouthed, red-lipped, fair, +self-satisfied face of these Austrian despots. It is a handsomer face +than most of Velazquez, as it was probably painted from memory and +lenient tradition. For Philip III. was gathered to his fathers in the +Escorial before Velazquez came up from Andalusia to seek his fortune at +the court. The first work he did in Madrid was to paint the portrait of +the king, which so pleased his majesty that he had it repeated _ad +nauseam._ You see him served up in every form in this gallery,--on foot, +on horseback, in full armor, in a shooting-jacket, at picnics, and +actually on his knees at his prayers! We wonder if Velazquez ever grew +tired of that vacant face with its contented smirk, or if in that loyal +age the smile of royalty was not always the sunshine of the court? + +There is a most instructive study of faces in the portraits of the +Austrian line. First comes Charles V., the First of Spain, painted by +Titian at Augsburg, on horseback, in the armor he wore at Muhl-berg, his +long lance in rest, his visor up over the eager, powerful face,--the eye +and beak of an eagle, the jaw of a bull-dog, the face of a born ruler, a +man of prey. And yet in the converging lines about the eyes, in the +premature gray hair, in the nervous, irritable lips, you can see the +promise of early decay, of an age that will be the spoil of superstition +and bigotry. It is the face of a man who could make himself emperor and +hermit. In his son, Philip II., the soldier dies out and the bigot is +intensified. In the fine portrait by Pantoja, of Philip in his age, +there is scarcely any trace of the fresh, fair youth that Titian painted +as Adonis. It is the face of a living corpse; of a ghastly pallor, +heightened by the dull black of his mourning suit, where all passion and +feeling have died out of the livid lips and the icy eyes. Beside him +hangs the portrait of his rickety, feebly passionate son, the +unfortunate Don Carlos. The forehead of the young prince is narrow and +ill-formed; the Austrian chin is exaggerated one degree more; he looks a +picture of fitful impulse. His brother, Philip III., we have just seen, +fair and inane,--a monster of cruelty, who burned Jews and banished +Moors, not from malice, but purely from vacuity of spirit; his head +broadens like a pine-apple from the blond crest to the plump jowls. +Every one knows the head of Philip IV.,--he was fortunate in being the +friend of Velazquez,--the high, narrow brow, the long, weak face, the +yellow, curled mustache, the thick, red lips, and the ever lengthening +Hapsburg chin. But the line of Austria ends with the utmost limit of +caricature in the face of Charles the Bewitched! Carreno has given us an +admirable portrait of this unfortunate,--the forehead caved in like the +hat of a drunkard, the red-lidded eyes staring vacantly, a long, thin +nose absurd as a Carnival disguise, an enormous mouth which he could not +shut, the under-jaw projected so prodigiously,--a face incapable of any +emotion but fear. And yet in gazing at this idiotic mask you are +reminded of another face you have somewhere seen, and are startled to +remember it is the resolute face of the warrior and statesman, the king +of men, the Kaiser Karl. Yes, this pitiable being was the descendant of +the great emperor, and for that sufficient reason, although he was an +impotent and shivering idiot, although he could not sleep without a +friar in his bed to keep the devils away, for thirty-five years this +scarecrow ruled over Spain, and dying made a will whose accomplishment +bathed the Peninsula in blood. It must be confessed this institution of +monarchy is a luxury that must be paid for. + +We did not intend to talk of politics in this room, but that line of +royal effigies was too tempting. Before we go, let us look at a +beautiful Magdalen in penitence, by an unknown artist of the school of +Murillo. She stands near the entrance of her cave, in a listening +attitude. The bright out-of-door light falls on her bare shoulder and +gives the faintest touch of gold to her dishevelled brown hair. She +casts her eyes upward, the large melting eyes of Andalusia; a chastened +sorrow, through which a trembling hope is shining, softens the somewhat +worldly beauty of her exquisite and sensitive face. Through the mouth of +the cave we catch a glimpse of sunny mountain solitude, and in the rosy +air that always travels with Spanish angels a band of celestial +serenaders is playing. It is a charming composition, without any depth +of sentiment or especial mastery of treatment, but evidently painted by +a clever artist in his youth, and this Magdalen is the portrait of the +lady of his dreams. None of Murillo's pupils but Tobar could have +painted it, and the manner is precisely the same as that of his Divina +Pastora. + +Across the hall is the gallery consecrated to Italian artists. There are +not many pictures of the first rank here. They have been reserved for +the great central gallery, where we are going. But while here, we must +notice especially two glorious works of Tintoret,--the same subject +differently treated,--the Death of Holofernes. Both are placed higher +than they should be, considering their incontestable merit. A full light +is needed to do justice to that magnificence of color which is the pride +of Venice. There are two remarkable pictures of Giordano,--one in the +Roman style, which would not be unworthy of the great Sanzio himself, a +Holy Family, drawn and colored with that scrupulous correctness which +seems so impossible in the ordinary products of this Protean genius; and +just opposite, an apotheosis of Rubens, surrounded by his usual +"properties" of fat angels and genii, which could be readily sold +anywhere as a specimen of the estimate which the unabashed Fleming +placed upon himself. It is marvellous that any man should so master the +habit and the thought of two artists so widely apart as Raphael and +Rubens, as to produce just such pictures as they would have painted upon +the same themes. The halls and dark corridors of the Museum are filled +with Giordano's canvases. In less than ten years' residence in Spain he +covered the walls of dozens of churches and palaces with his fatally +facile work. There are more than three hundred pictures recorded as +executed by him in that time. They are far from being without merit. +There is a singular slap-dash vigor about his drawing. His coloring, +except when he is imitating some earlier master, is usually thin and +poor. It is difficult to repress an emotion of regret in looking at his +laborious yet useless life. With great talents, with indefatigable +industry, he deluged Europe with paintings that no one cares for, and +passed into history simply as Luca Fa Presto,--Luke Work-Fast. + +It is not by mere activity that great things are done in art. In the +great gallery we now enter we see the deathless work of the men who +wrought in faith. This is the grandest room in Christendom. It is about +three hundred and fifty feet long and thirty-five broad and high. It is +beautifully lighted from above. Its great length is broken here and +there by vases and statues, so placed between doors as nowhere to +embarrass the view. The northern half of the gallery is Spanish, and the +southern half Italian. Halfway down, a door to the left opens into an +oval chamber, devoted to an eclectic set of masterpieces of every school +and age. The gallery ends in a circular room of French and German +pictures, on either side of which there are two great halls of Dutch and +Flemish. On the ground floor there are some hundreds more Flemish and a +hall of sculpture. + +The first pictures you see to your left are by the early masters of +Spain,--Morales, called in Spain the Divine, whose works are now +extremely rare, the Museum possessing only three or four, long, +fleshless faces and stiff figures of Christs and Marys,--and Juan de +Juanes, the founder of the Valentian school, who brought back from Italy +the lessons of Raphael's studio, that firmness of design and brilliancy +of color, and whose genuine merit has survived all vicissitudes of +changing taste. He has here a superb Last Supper and a spirited series +of pictures illustrating the martyrdom of Stephen. There is perhaps a +little too much elaboration of detail, even for the Romans. Stephen's +robes are unnecessarily new, and the ground where he is stoned is +profusely covered with convenient round missiles the size of Vienna +rolls, so exactly suited to the purpose that it looks as if Providence +sided with the persecutors. But what a wonderful variety and truth in +the faces and the attitudes of the groups! What mastery of drawing, and +what honest integrity of color after all these ages! It is reported of +Juanes that he always confessed and prayed before venturing to take up +his pencils to touch the features of the saints and Saviours that shine +on his canvas. His conscientious fervor has its reward. + +Across the room are the Murillos. Hung together are two pictures, not of +large dimensions, but of exquisite perfection, which will serve as fair +illustrations of the work of his youth and his age; the frio and the +vaporoso manner. In the former manner is this charming picture of +Rebecca at the Well; a graceful composition, correct and somewhat severe +drawing, the greatest sharpness and clearness of outline. In the +Martyrdom of St. Andrew the drawing and the composition are no less +absolutely perfect, but there hangs over the whole picture a luminous +haze of strangeness and mystery. A light that never was on sea or land +bathes the distant hills and battlements, touches the spears of the +legionaries, and shines in full glory on the ecstatic face of the aged +saint. It does not seem a part of the scene. You see the picture through +it. A step further on there is a Holy Family, which seems to me the +ultimate effort of the early manner. A Jewish carpenter holds his +fair-haired child between his knees. The urchin holds up a bird to +attract the attention of a little white dog on the floor. The mother, a +dark-haired peasant woman, looks on the scene with quiet amusement. The +picture is absolutely perfect in detail. It seems to be the _consigne_ +among critics to say it lacks "style." They say it is a family scene in +Judaea, _voila tout._ Of course, and it is that very truth and nature +that makes this picture so fascinating. The Word was made flesh, and not +a phosphorescent apparition; and Murillo knew what he was about when he +painted this view of the interior of St. Joseph's shop. What absurd +presumption to accuse this great thinker of a deficiency of ideality, in +face of these two glorious Marys of the Conception that fill the room +with light and majesty! They hang side by side, so alike and yet so +distinct in character. One is a woman in knowledge and a goddess of +purity; the other, absolute innocence, startled by the stupendous +revelation and exalted by the vaguely comprehended glory of the future. +It is before this picture that the visitor always lingers longest. The +face is the purest expression of girlish loveliness possible to art. The +Virgin floats upborne by rosy clouds, flocks of pink cherubs flutter at +her feet waving palm-branches. The golden air is thick with suggestions +of dim celestial faces, but nothing mars the imposing solitude of the +Queen of Heaven, shrined alone, throned in the luminous azure. Surely no +man ever understood or interpreted like this grand Andalusian the power +that the worship of woman exerts on the religions of the world. All the +passionate love that has been poured out in all the ages at the feet of +Ashtaroth and Artemis and Aphrodite and Freya found visible form and +color at last on that immortal canvas where, with his fervor of religion +and the full strength of his virile devotion to beauty, he created, for +the adoration of those who should follow him, this type of the perfect +Feminine,-- + +"Thee! standing loveliest in the open heaven! Ave Maria! only Heaven and +Thee!" + +There are some dozens more of Murillo here almost equally remarkable, +but I cannot stop to make an unmeaning catalogue of them. There is a +charming Gypsy Fortune-teller, whose wheedling voice and smile were +caught and fixed in some happy moment in Seville; an Adoration of the +Shepherds, wonderful in its happy combination of rigid truth with the +warmest glow of poetry; two Annunciations, rich with the radiance that +streams through the rent veil of the innermost heaven,--lights painted +boldly upon lights, the White Dove sailing out of the dazzling +background of celestial effulgence,--a miracle and mystery of theology +repeated by a miracle and mystery of art. + +Even when you have exhausted the Murillos of the Museum you have not +reached his highest achievements in color and design. You will find +these in the Academy of San Fernando,--the Dream of the Roman Gentleman, +and the Founding of the Church of St. Mary the Greater; and the powerful +composition of St. Elizabeth of Hungary, in her hospital work. In the +first, a noble Roman and his wife have suddenly fallen asleep in their +chairs in an elegant apartment. Their slumber is painted with curious +felicity,--you lower your voice for fear of waking them. On the left of +the picture is their dream: the Virgin comes in a halo of golden clouds +and designates the spot where her church is to be built. In the next +picture the happy couple kneel before the pope and expose their high +commission, and outside a brilliant procession moves to the ceremony of +the laying of the corner-stone. The St. Elizabeth is a triumph of genius +over a most terribly repulsive subject. The wounds and sores of the +beggars are painted with unshrinking fidelity, but every vulgar detail +is redeemed by the beauty and majesty of the whole. I think in these +pictures of Murillo the last word of Spanish art was reached. There was +no further progress possible in life, even for him. "Other heights in +other lives, God willing." + +Returning to the Museum and to Velazquez, we find ourselves in front of +his greatest historical work, the Surrender of Breda. This is probably +the most utterly unaffected historical painting in existence. There is +positively no stage business about it. On the right is the Spanish +staff, on the left the deputation of the vanquished Flemings. In the +centre the great Spinola accepts the keys of the city from the governor; +his attitude and face are full of dignity softened by generous and +affable grace. He lays his hand upon the shoulder of the Flemish +general, and you can see he is paying him some chivalrous compliment on +the gallant fight he has lost. If your eyes wander through the open +space between the two escorts, you see a wonderful widespread landscape +in the Netherlands, which would form a fine picture if the figures all +were gone. Opposite this great work is another which artists consider +greater,--Las Meninas. When Luca Giordano came from Italy he inquired +for this picture, and said on seeing it, "This is the theology of +painting." If our theology were what it should be, and cannot be, +absolute and unquestionable truth, Luca the Quick-worker would have been +right. Velazquez was painting the portrait of a stupid little infanta +when the idea came to him of perpetuating the scene just as it was. We +know how we have wished to be sure of the exact accessories of past +events. The modern rage for theatrical local color is an illustration of +this desire. The great artist, who must have honored his art, determined +to give to future ages an exact picture of one instant of his glorious +life. It is not too much to say he has done this. He stands before his +easel, his pencils in his hand. The little princess is stiffly posing in +the centre. Her little maids are grouped about her. Two hideous dwarfs +on the right are teasing a noble dog who is too drowsy and magnanimous +to growl. In the background at the end of a long gallery a gentleman is +opening a door to the garden. The presence of royalty is indicated by +the reflection of the faces of the king and queen in a small mirror, +where you would expect to see your own. The longer you look upon this +marvellous painting, the less possible does it seem that it is merely +the placing of color on canvas which causes this perfect illusion. It +does not seem possible that you are looking at a plane surface. There is +a stratum of air before, behind, and beside these figures. You could +walk on that floor and see how the artist is getting on with the +portrait. There is space and light in this picture, as in any room. +Every object is detached, as in the common miracle of the stereoscope. +If art consist in making a fleeting moment immortal, if the True is a +higher ideal than the Beautiful, then it will be hard to find a greater +painting than this. It is utterly without beauty; its tone is a cold +olive green-gray; there is not one redeeming grace or charm about it +except the noble figure of Velazquez himself,--yet in its austere +fidelity to truth it stands incomparable in the world. It gained +Velazquez his greatest triumph. You see on his breast a sprawling red +cross, painted evidently by an unskilful hand. This was the gracious +answer made by Philip IV. when the artist asked him if anything was +wanting to the picture. This decoration, daubed by the royal hand, was +the accolade of the knighthood of Santiago,--an honor beyond the dreams +of an artist of that day. It may be considered the highest compliment +ever paid to a painter, except the one paid by Courbet to himself, when +he refused to be decorated by the Man of December. + +Among Velazquez's most admirable studies of life is his picture of the +Borrachos. A group of rustic roysterers are admitting a neophyte into +the drunken _confrerie._ He kneels to receive a crown of ivy from the +hands of the king of the revel. A group of older tipplers are filling +their cups, or eyeing their brimming glasses, with tipsy, mock-serious +glances. There has never been a chapter written which so clearly shows +the drunkard's nature as this vulgar anacreontic. A thousand men have +painted drunken frolics, but never one with such distinct spiritual +insight as this. To me the finest product of Jordaens' genius is his +Bohnen Koenig in the Belvedere, but there you see only the incidents of +the mad revel; every one is shouting or singing or weeping with maudlin +glee or tears. But in this scene of the Borrachos there is nothing +scenic or forced. These topers have come together to drink, for the love +of the wine,--the fun is secondary. This wonderful reserve of Velazquez +is clearly seen in his conception of the king of the rouse. He is a +young man, with a heavy, dull, somewhat serious face, fat rather than +bloated, rather pale than flushed. He is naked to the waist to show the +plump white arms and shoulders and the satiny skin of the voluptuary; +one of those men whose heads and whose stomachs are too loyal ever to +give them _Katzenjammer_ or remorse. The others are of the commoner type +of haunters of wine-shops,--with red eyes and coarse hides and grizzled +matted hair,--but every man of them inexorably true, and a predestined +sot. + +We must break away from Velazquez, passing by his marvellous portraits +of kings and dwarfs, saints and poodles,--among whom there is a dwarf of +two centuries ago, who is too like Tom Thumb to serve for his twin +brother,--and a portrait of Aesop, which is a flash of intuition, an +epitome of all the fables. Before leaving the Spaniards we must look at +the most pleasing of all Ribera's works,--the Ladder-Dream of Jacob. +The patriarch lies stretched on the open plain in the deep sleep of the +weary. To the right in a broad shaft of cloudy gold the angels are +ascending and descending. The picture is remarkable for its mingling the +merits of Ribera's first and second manner. It is a Caravaggio in its +strength and breadth of light and shade, and a Correggio in its delicacy +of sentiment and refined beauty of coloring. He was not often so +fortunate in his Parmese efforts. They are usually marked by a timidity +and an attempt at prettiness inconceivable in the haughty and impulsive +master of the Neapolitan school. + +Of the three great Spaniards, Ribera is the least sympathetic. He often +displays a tumultuous power and energy to which his calmer rivals are +strangers. But you miss in him that steady devotion to truth which +distinguishes Velazquez, and that spiritual lift which ennobles Murillo. +The difference, I conceive, lies in the moral character of the three. +Ribera was a great artist, and the others were noble men. Ribera passed +a youth of struggle and hunger and toil among the artists of Rome,--a +stranger and penniless in the magnificent city,--picking up crusts in +the street and sketching on quiet curbstones, with no friend, and no +name but that of Spagnoletto,--the little Spaniard. Suddenly rising to +fame, he broke loose from his Roman associations and fled to Naples, +where he soon became the wealthiest and the most arrogant artist of his +time. He held continually at his orders a faction of _bravi_ who drove +from Naples, with threats and insults and violence, every artist of +eminence who dared visit the city. Car-racci and Guido only saved their +lives by flight, and the blameless and gifted Domenichino, it is said, +was foully murdered by his order. It is not to such a heart as this that +is given the ineffable raptures of Murillo or the positive revelations +of Velazquez. These great souls were above cruelty or jealousy. +Velazquez never knew the storms of adversity. Safely anchored in the +royal favor, he passed his uneventful life in the calm of his beloved +work. But his hand and home were always open to the struggling artists +of Spain. He was the benefactor of Alonzo Cano; and when Murillo came up +to Madrid, weary and footsore with his long tramp from Andalusia, +sustained by an innate consciousness of power, all on fire with a +picture of Van Dyck he had seen in Seville, the rich and honored painter +of the court received with generous kindness the shabby young wanderer, +clothed him, and taught him, and watched with noble delight the first +flights of the young eagle whose strong wing was so soon to cleave the +empyrean. And when Murillo went back to Seville he paid his debt by +doing as much for others. These magnanimous hearts were fit company for +the saints they drew. + +We have lingered so long with the native artists we shall have little to +say of the rest. There are ten fine Raphaels, but it is needless to +speak of them. They have been endlessly reproduced. Raphael is known and +judged by the world. After some centuries of discussion the scorners and +the critics are dumb. All men have learned the habit of Albani, who, in +a frivolous and unappreciative age, always uncovered his head at the +name of Raphael Sanzio. We look at his precious work with a mingled +feeling of gratitude for what we have, and of rebellious wonder that +lives like his and Shelley's should be extinguished in their glorious +dawn, while kings and country gentlemen live a hundred years. What +boundless possibilities of bright achievement these two divine youths +owed us in the forty years more they should have lived! Raphael's +greatest pictures in Madrid are the Spasimo di Sicilia, and the Holy +Family, called La Perla. The former has a singular history. It was +painted for a convent in Palermo, shipwrecked on the way, and thrown +ashore on the gulf of Genoa. It was again sent to Sicily, brought to +Spain by the Viceroy of Naples, stolen by Napoleon, and in Paris was +subjected to a brilliantly successful operation for transferring the +layer of paint from the worm-eaten wood to canvas. It came back to Spain +with other stolen goods from the Louvre. La Perla was bought by Philip +IV. at the sale of Charles I.'s effects after his decapitation. Philip +was fond of Charles, but could not resist the temptation to profit by +his death. This picture was the richest of the booty. It is, of all the +faces of the Virgin extant, the most perfectly beautiful and one of the +least spiritual. + +There is another fine Madonna, commonly called La Virgen del Pez, from a +fish which young Tobit holds in his hand. It is rather tawny in color, +as if it had been painted on a pine board and the wood had asserted +itself from below. It is a charming picture, with all the great Roman's +inevitable perfection of design; but it is incomprehensible that +critics, M. Viardot among them, should call it the first in rank of +Raphael's Virgins in Glory. There are none which can dispute that title +with Our Lady of San Sisto, unearthly and supernatural in beauty and +majesty. + +The school of Florence is represented by a charming Mona Lisa of +Leonardo da Vinci, almost identical with that of the Louvre; and six +admirable pictures of Andrea del Sarto. But the one which most attracts +and holds all those who regard the Faultless Painter with sympathy, and +who admiring his genius regret his errors, is a portrait of his wife +Lucrezia Fede, whose name, a French writer has said, is a double +epigram. It was this capricious and wilful beauty who made poor Andrea +break his word and embezzle the money King Francis had given him to +spend for works of art. Yet this dangerous face is his best excuse,--the +face of a man-snarer, subtle and passionate and cruel in its blind +selfishness, and yet so beautiful that any man might yield to it against +the cry of his own warning conscience. Browning must have seen it before +he wrote, in his pathetic poem,-- + + "Let my hands frame your face in your hair's gold, + You beautiful Lucrezia, that are mine!" + +Nowhere, away from the Adriatic, is the Venetian school so richly +represented as in Madrid. Charles and Philip were the most munificent +friends and patrons of Titian, and the Royal Museum counts among its +treasures in consequence the enormous number of forty-three pictures by +the wonderful centenarian. Among these are two upon which he set great +value,--a Last Supper, which has unfortunately mouldered to ruin in the +humid refectory of the Escorial, equal in merit and destiny with that of +Leonardo; and the Gloria, or apotheosis of the imperial family, which, +after the death of Charles, was brought from Yuste to the Escorial, and +thence came to swell the treasures of the Museum. It is a grand and +masterly work. The vigorous genius of Titian has grappled with the +essential difficulties of a subject that trembles on the balance of +ridiculous and sublime, and has come out triumphant. The Father and the +Son sit on high. The Operating Spirit hovers above them. The Virgin in +robes of azure stands in the blaze of the Presence. The celestial army +is ranged around. Below, a little lower than the angels, are Charles and +Philip with their wives, on their knees, with white cowls and clasped +hands,--Charles in his premature age, with worn face and grizzled beard; +and Philip in his youth of unwholesome fairness, with red lips and pink +eyelids, such as Titian painted him in the Adonis. The foreground is +filled with prophets and saints of the first dignity, and a kneeling +woman, whose face is not visible, but whose attitude and drapery are +drawn with the sinuous and undulating grace of that hand which could not +fail. Every figure is turned to the enthroned Deity, touched with +ineffable light. The artist has painted heaven, and is not absurd. In +that age of substantial faith such achievements were possible. + +There are two Venuses by Titian very like that of Dresden, but the heads +have not the same dignity; and a Danae which is a replica of the Vienna +one. His Salome bearing the Head of John the Baptist is one of the +finest impersonations of the pride of life conceivable. So +unapproachable are the soft lights and tones on the perfect arms and +shoulders of the full-bodied maiden, that Tintoret one day exclaimed in +despair before it, "That fellow paints with ground flesh." + +This gallery possesses one of the last works of Titian,--the Battle of +Lepanto, which was fought when the artist was ninety-four years of age. +It is a courtly allegory,--King Philip holds his little son in his arms, +a courier angel brings the news of victory, and to the infant a +palm-branch and the scroll _Majora tibi._ Outside you see the smoke and +flash of a naval battle, and a malignant and tur-baned Turk lies bound +on the floor. It would seem incredible that this enormous canvas should +have been executed at such an age, did we not know that when the pest +cut the mighty master off in his hundredth year he was busily at work +upon a Descent from the Cross, which Palma the Elder finished on his +knees and dedicated to God: Quod Titianus inchoatum reliquit Palma +reverenter absolvit Deoque dicavit opus. + +The vast representation of Titian rather injures Veronese and Tintoret. +Opposite the Gloria of Yuste hangs the sketch of that stupendous +Paradise of Tintoret, which we see in the Palace of the Doges,--the +biggest picture ever painted by mortal, thirty feet high and +seventy-four long. + +The sketch was secured by Velazquez in his tour through Italy. The most +charming picture of Veronese is a Venus and Adonis, which is finer than +that of Titian,--a classic and most exquisite idyl of love and sleep, +cool shadow and golden-sifted sunshine. His most considerable work in +the gallery is a Christ teaching the Doctors, magnificent in +arrangement, severely correct in drawing, and of a most vivid and +dramatic interest. + +We pass through a circular vaulted chamber to reach the Flemish rooms. +There is a choice though scanty collection of the German and French +schools. Albert Durer has an Adam and Eve, and a priceless portrait of +himself as perfectly preserved as if it were painted yesterday. He wears +a curious and picturesque costume,--striped black-and-white,--a graceful +tasselled cap of the same. The picture is sufficiently like the statue +at Nuremberg; a long South-German face, blue-eyed and thin, +fair-whiskered, with that expression of quiet confidence you would +expect in the man who said one day, with admirable candor, when people +were praising a picture of his, "It could not be better done." In this +circular room are four great Claudes, two of which, Sunrise and Sunset, +otherwise called the Embarcation of Sta. Paula, and Tobit and the Angel, +are in his best and richest manner. It is inconceivable to us, who +graduate men by a high-school standard, that these refined and most +elegant works could have been produced by a man so imperfectly educated +as Claude Lorrain. + +There remain the pictures of the Dutch and the Flemings. It is due to +the causes we have mentioned in the beginning that neither in Antwerp +nor Dresden nor Paris is there such wealth and profusion of the +Netherlands art as in this mountain-guarded corner of Western Europe. I +shall have but a word to say of these three vast rooms, for Rubens and +Van Dyck and Teniers are known to every one. The first has here a +representation so complete that if Europe were sunk by a cataclysm from +the Baltic to the Pyrenees every essential characteristic of the great +Fleming could still be studied in this gallery. With the exception of +his Descent from the Cross in the Cathedral at Antwerp, painted in a +moment of full inspiration that never comes twice in a life, everything +he has done elsewhere may be matched in Madrid. His largest picture here +is an Adoration of the Kings, an overpowering exhibition of wasteful +luxuriance of color and _fougue_ of composition. To the left the Virgin +stands leaning with queenly majesty over the effulgent Child. From this +point the light flashes out over the kneeling magi, the gorgeously +robed attendants, the prodigality of velvet and jewels and gold, to fade +into the lovely clear-obscure of a starry night peopled with dim camels +and cattle. On the extreme right is a most graceful and gallant portrait +of the artist on horseback. We have another fine self-portraiture in the +Garden of Love,--a group of lords and ladies in a delicious pleasance +where the greatest seigneur is Peter Paul Rubens and the finest lady is +Helen Forman. These true artists had to paint for money so many ignoble +faces that they could not be blamed for taking their revenge in painting +sometimes their own noble heads. Van Dyck never drew a profile so +faultless in manly beauty as his own which we see on the same canvas +with that of his friend the Earl of Bristol. Look at the two faces side +by side, and say whether God or the king can make the better nobleman. + +Among those mythological subjects in which Rubens delighted, the best +here are his Perseus and Andromeda, where the young hero comes +gloriously in a brand-new suit of Milanese armor, while the lovely +princess, in a costume that never grows old-fashioned, consisting of +sunshine and golden hair, awaits him and deliverance in beautiful +resignation; a Judgment of Paris, the Three Graces,--both prodigies of +his strawberries-and-cream color; and a curious suckling of Hercules, +which is the prototype or adumbration of the ecstatic vision of St. +Bernard. He has also a copy of Titian's Adam and Eve, in an +out-of-the-way place downstairs, which should be hung beside the +original, to show the difference of handling of the two master +colorists. + +Especially happy is this Museum in its Van Dycks. Besides those +incomparable portraits of Lady Oxford, of Liberti the Organist of +Antwerp, and others better than the best of any other man, there are a +few large and elaborate compositions such as I have never seen +elsewhere. The principal one is the Capture of Christ by Night in the +Garden of Gethsemane, which has all the strength of Rubens, with a more +refined study of attitudes and a greater delicacy of tone and touch. +Another is the Crowning with Thorns,--although of less dimensions, of +profound significance in expression, and a flowing and marrowy softness +of execution. You cannot survey the work of Van Dyck in this collection, +so full of deep suggestion, showing an intellect so vivid and so +refined, a mastery of processes so thorough and so intelligent, without +the old wonder of what he would have done in that ripe age when Titian +and Murillo and Shakespeare wrought their best and fullest, and the old +regret for the dead,--as Edgar Poe sings, the doubly dead in that they +died so young. We are tempted to lift the veil that hides the unknown, +at least with the furtive hand of conjecture; to imagine a field of +unquenched activity where the early dead, free from the clogs and +trammels of the lower world, may follow out the impulses of their +diviner nature,--where Andrea has no wife, and Raphael and Van Dyck no +disease,--where Keats and Shelley have all eternity for their lofty +rhyme,--where Ellsworth and Koerner and the Lowell boys can turn their +alert and athletic intelligence to something better than war. + + + + +A CASTLE IN THE AIR + + +I have sometimes thought that a symptom of the decay of true kinghood in +modern times is the love of monarchs for solitude. In the early days +when monarchy was a real power to answer a real want, the king had no +need to hide himself. He was the strongest, the most knowing, the most +cunning. He moved among men their acknowledged chief. He guided and +controlled them. He never lost his dignity by daily use. He could steal +a horse like Diomede, he could mend his own breeches like Dagobert, and +never tarnish the lustre of the crown by it. But in later times the +throne has become an anachronism. The wearer of a crown has done nothing +to gain it but give himself the trouble to be born. He has no claim to +the reverence or respect of men. Yet he insists upon it, and receives +some show of it. His life is mainly passed in keeping up this battle for +a lost dignity and worship. He is given up to shams and ceremonies. + +To a life like this there is something embarrassing in the movement and +activity of a great city. The king cannot join in it without a loss of +prestige. Being outside of it, he is vexed and humiliated by it. The +empty forms become nauseous in the midst of this honest and wholesome +reality of out-of-doors. + +Hence the necessity of these quiet retreats in the forests, in the +water-guarded islands, in the cloud-girdled mountains. Here the world is +not seen or heard. Here the king may live with such approach to nature +as his false and deformed education will allow. He is surrounded by +nothing but the world of servants and courtiers, and it requires little +effort of the imagination to consider himself chief and lord. + +It was this spirit which in the decaying ripeness of the Bourbon dynasty +drove the Louis from Paris to Versailles and from Versailles to Marly. +Millions were wasted to build the vast monument of royal fatuity, and +when it was done the Grand Monarque found it necessary to fly from time +to time to the sham solitude and mock retirement he had built an hour +away. + +When Philip V. came down from France to his splendid exile on the throne +of Spain, he soon wearied of the interminable ceremonies of the +Cas-tilian court, and finding one day, while hunting, a pleasant farm on +the territory of the Segovian monks, flourishing in a wrinkle of the +Guadarrama Mountains, he bought it, and reared the Palace of La Granja. +It is only kings who can build their castles in the air of palpable +stones and mortar. This lordly pleasure-house stands four thousand feet +above the sea level. On this commanding height, in this savage Alpine +loneliness, in the midst of a scenery once wildly beautiful, but now +shorn and shaven into a smug likeness of a French garden, Philip passed +all the later years of his gloomy and inglorious life. + +It has been ever since a most tempting summer-house to all the Bourbons. +When the sun is calcining the plains of Castile, and the streets of +Madrid are white with the hot light of midsummer, this palace in the +clouds is as cool and shadowy as spring twilights. And besides, as all +public business is transacted in Madrid, and La Granja is a day's +journey away, it is too much trouble to send a courier every day for the +royal signature,--or, rather, rubric, for royalty in Spain is above +handwriting, and gives its majestic approval with a flourish of the +pen,--so that everything waits a week or so, and much business goes +finally undone; and this is the highest triumph of Spanish industry and +skill. + +We had some formal business with the court of the regent, and were not +sorry to learn that his highness would not return to the capital for +some weeks, and that consequently, following the precedent of a certain +prophet, we must go to the mountain. + +We found at the Estacion del Norte the state railway carriage of her +late majesty,--a brilliant creation of yellow satin and profuse gilding, +a bovidoir on wheels,--not too full of a distinguished company. Some of +the leading men of New Spain, one or two ministers, were there, and we +passed a pleasant two hours on the road in that most seductive of all +human occupations,--talking politics. + +It is remarkable that whenever a nation is remodelling its internal +structure, the subject most generally discussed is the constitutional +system of the United States. The republicans usually adopt it solid. The +monarchists study it with a jealous interest. I fell into conversation +with Senor------, one of the best minds in Spain, an enlightened though +conservative statesman. He said: "It is hard for Europe to adopt a +settled belief about you. America is a land of wonders, of +contradictions. One party calls your system freedom, another anarchy. In +all legislative assemblies of Europe, republicans and absolutists alike +draw arguments from America. But what cannot be denied are the effects, +the results. These are evident, something vast and grandiose, a life and +movement to which the Old World is stranger." He afterwards referred +with great interest to the imaginary imperialist movement in America, +and raised his eyebrows in polite incredulity when I assured him there +was as much danger of Spain becoming Mohammedan as of America becoming +imperialist. + +We stopped at the little station of Villalba, in the midst of the wide +brown table-land that stretches from Madrid to the Escorial. At Villalba +we found the inevitable swarm of beggars, who always know by the sure +instinct of wretchedness where a harvest of cuartos is to be achieved. I +have often passed Villalba and have seen nothing but the station-master +and the water-vender. But to-day, because there were a half dozen +excellencies on the train, the entire mendicant force of the district +was on parade. They could not have known these gentlemen were coming; +they must have scented pennies in the air. + +Awaiting us at the rear of the station were three enormous lumbering +diligences, each furnished with nine superb mules,--four pairs and a +leader. They were loaded with gaudy trappings, and their shiny coats, +and backs shorn into graceful arabesques, showed that they did not +belong to the working-classes, but enjoyed the gentlemanly leisure of +official station. The drivers wore a smart postilion uniform and the +royal crown on their caps. + +We threw some handfuls of copper and bronze among the picturesque +mendicants. They gathered them up with grave Castilian decorum, and +said, "God will repay your graces." The postilions cracked their whips, +the mules shook their bells gayly, the heavy wagons started off at a +full gallop, and the beggars said, "May your graces go with God!" + +It was the end of July, and the sky was blue and cloudless. The fine, +soft light of the afternoon was falling on the tawny slopes and the +close-reaped fields. The harvest was over. In the fields on either side +they were threshing their grain, not as in the outside world, with the +whirring of loud and swift machinery, nor even with the active and +lively swinging of flails; but in the open air, under the warm sky, the +cattle were lazily treading out the corn on the bare ground, to be +winnowed by the wandering wind. No change from the time of Solomon. +Through an infinity of ages, ever since corn and cattle were, the +Iberian farmer in this very spot had driven his beasts over his crop, +and never dreamed of a better way of doing the work. + +Not only does the Spaniard not seek for improvements, he utterly +despises and rejects them. The poorer classes especially, who would +find an enormous advantage in increased production, lightening their +hard lot by a greater plenty of the means of life, regard every +introduction of improved machinery as a blow at the rights of labor. +When many years ago a Dutch vintner went to Valdepenas and so greatly +improved the manufacture of that excellent but ill-made wine that its +price immediately rose in the Madrid market, he was mobbed and plundered +by his ignorant neighbors, because, as they said, he was laboring to +make wine dearer. In every attempt which has been made to manufacture +improved machinery in Spain, the greatest care has to be taken to +prevent the workmen from maliciously damaging the works, which they +imagine are to take the bread from the mouths of their children. + +So strong is this feeling in every department of national life, that the +mayoral who drove our spanking nine-in-hand received with very ill humor +our suggestion that the time could be greatly shortened by a Fell +railroad over the hills to La Granja. "What would become of nosotros?" +he asked. And it really would seem a pity to annihilate so much +picturesqueness and color at the bidding of mere utility. A gayly +embroidered Andalusian jacket, bright scarlet silk waistcoat,--a rich +wide belt, into which his long knife, the navaja, was jauntily +thrust,--buckskin breeches, with Valentian stockings, which, as they are +open at the bottom, have been aptly likened to a Spaniard's purse,--and +shoes made of Murcian matting, composed his natty outfit. By his side on +the box sat the zagal, his assistant, whose especial function seemed to +be to swear at the cattle. I have heard some eloquent imprecation in my +day. "Our army swore terribly" at Hilton Head. The objuration of the +boatmen of the Mississippi is very vigorous and racy. But I have never +assisted at a session of profanity so loud, so energetic, so original as +that with which this Castilian postilion regaled us. The wonderful +consistency and perseverance with which the role was sustained was +worthy of a much better cause. + +He began by yelling in a coarse, strident voice, "Arre! arre!" (Get up!) +with a vicious emphasis on the final syllable. This is one of the +Moorish words that have remained fixed like fossils in the language of +the conquerors. Its constant use in the mouths of muleteers has given +them the name of arrieros. This general admonition being addressed to +the team at large, the zagal descended to details, and proceeded to +vilipend the galloping beasts separately, beginning with the leader. He +informed him, still in this wild, jerking scream, that he was a dog, +that his mother's character was far from that of Caesar's wife, and that +if more speed was not exhibited on this down grade, he would be forced +to resort to extreme measures. At the mention of a whip, the tall male +mule who led the team dashed gallantly off, and the diligence was soon +enveloped in a cloud of dust. This seemed to excite our gay charioteer +to the highest degree. He screamed lustily at his mules, addressing each +personally by its name. "Andaluza, arre! Thou of Arragon, go! Beware the +scourge, Manchega!" and every animal acknowledged the special attention +by shaking its ears and bells and whisking its shaven tail, as the +diligence rolled furiously over the dull drab plain. + +For three hours the iron lungs of the muleteer knew no rest or pause. +Several times in the journey we stopped at a post-station to change our +cattle, but the same brazen throat sufficed for all the threatening and +encouragement that kept them at the top of their speed. Before we +arrived at our journey's end, however, he was hoarse as a raven, and +kept one hand pressed to his jaw to reinforce the exhausted muscles of +speech. + +When the wide and dusty plain was passed, we began by a slow and winding +ascent the passage of the Guadarrama. The road is an excellent one, and +although so seldom used,--a few months only in the year,--it is kept in +the most perfect repair. It is exclusively a summer road, being in the +winter impassable with snow. It affords at every turn the most charming +compositions of mountain and wooded valley. At intervals we passed a +mounted guardia civil, who sat as motionless in his saddle as an +equestrian statue, and saluted as the coaches rattled by. And once or +twice in a quiet nook by the roadside we came upon the lonely cross that +marked the spot where a man had been murdered. + +It was nearly sunset when we arrived at the summit of the pass. We +halted to ask for a glass of water at the hut of a gray-haired woman on +the mountain-top. It was given and received as always in this pious +country, in the name of God. As we descended, the mules seemed to have +gained new vigor from the prospect of an easy stretch of _facilis +descensus,_ and the zagal employed what was left of his voice in +provoking them to speed by insulting remarks upon their lineage. The +quick twilight fell as we entered a vast forest of pines that clothed +the mountain-side. The enormous trees looked in the dim evening light +like the forms of the Anakim, maimed with lightning but still defying +heaven. Years of battle with the mountain winds had twisted them into +every conceivable shape of writhing and distorted deformity. I never saw +trees that so nearly conveyed the idea of being the visible prison of +tortured dryads. Their trunks, white and glistening with oozing resin, +added to the ghostly impression they created in the uncertain and +failing light. + +We reached the valley and rattled by a sleepy village, where we were +greeted by a chorus of outraged curs whose beauty-sleep we had +disturbed, and then began the slow ascent of the hill where St. +Ildefonso stands. We had not gone far when we heard a pattering of hoofs +and a ringing of sabres coming down the road to meet us. The diligence +stopped, and the Introducer of Ambassadors jumped to the ground and +announced, "El Regente del Reino!" It was the regent, the courteous and +amiable Marshal Serrano, who had ridden out from the palace to welcome +his guests, and who, after hasty salutations, galloped back to La +Granja, where we soon arrived. + +We were assigned the apartments usually given to the papal nuncio, and +slept with an episcopal peace of mind. In the morning, as we were +walking about the gardens, we saw looking from the palace window one of +the most accomplished gentlemen and diplomatists of the new regime. He +descended and did the honors of the place. The system of gardens and +fountains is enormous. It is evidently modelled upon Versailles, but the +copy is in many respects finer than the original. The peculiarity of the +site, while offering great difficulties, at the same time enhances the +triumph of success. This is a garden taught to bloom upon a barren +mountain-side. The earth in which these trees are planted was brought +from those dim plains in the distance on the backs of men and mules. The +pipes that supply these innumerable fountains were laid on the bare +rocks and the soil was thrown over them. Every tree was guarded and +watched like a baby. There was probably never a garden that grew under +such circumstances,--but the result is superb. The fountains are fed by +a vast reservoir in the mountain, and the water they throw into the +bright air is as clear as morning dew. Every alley and avenue is a vista +that ends in a vast picture of shaggy hills or far-off plains,--while +behind the royal gardens towers the lordly peak of the Penalara, thrust +eight thousand feet into the thin blue ether. + +The palace has its share of history. It witnessed the abdication of the +uxorious bigot Philip V. in 1724, and his resumption of the crown the +next year at the instance of his proud and turbulent Parmesan wife. His +bones rest in the church here, as he hated the Austrian line too +intensely to share with them the gorgeous crypt of the Escorial. His +wife, Elizabeth Farnese, lies under the same gravestone with him, as if +unwilling to forego even in death that tremendous influence which her +vigorous vitality had always exercised over his wavering and sensual +nature. "Das Ewig-Weibliche" masters and guides him still. + +This retreat in the autumn of 1832 was the scene of a prodigious +exhibition of courage and energy on the part of another Italian woman, +Dona Louisa Carlota de Borbon. Ferdinand VIL, his mind weakened by +illness, and influenced by his ministers, had proclaimed his brother Don +Carlos heir to the throne, to the exclusion of his own infant daughter. +His wife, Queen Christine, broken down by the long conflict, had given +way in despair. But her sister, Dona Louisa Carlota, heard of the news +in the south of Spain, and, leaving her babies at _Cadiz_ (two little +urchins, one of whom was to be king consort, and the other was to fall +by his cousin Montpensier's hand in the field of Carabanchel), she +posted without a moment's pause for rest or sleep over mountains and +plains from the sea to La Granja. She fought with the lackeys and the +ministers twenty-four hours before she could see her sister the queen. +Having breathed into Christine her own invincible spirit, they +succeeded, after endless pains, in reaching the king. Obstinate as the +weak often are, he refused at first to listen to them; but by their +womanly wiles, their Italian policy, their magnetic force, they at last +brought him to revoke his decree in favor of Don Carlos and to recognize +the right of his daughter to the crown. Then, terrible in her triumph, +Dona Louisa Carlota sent for the Minister Calomarde, overwhelmed him +with the coarsest and most furious abuse, and, unable to confine her +victorious rage and hate to words alone, she slapped the astounded +minister in the face. Calomarde, trembling with rage, bowed and said, "A +white hand cannot offend." + +There is nothing stronger than a woman's weakness, or weaker than a +woman's strength. + +A few years later, when Ferdinand was in his grave, and the baby Isabel +reigned under the regency of Christine, a movement in favor of the +constitution of 1812 burst out, where revolutions generally do, in the +south, and spread rapidly over the contiguous provinces. The infection +gained the troops of the royal guard at La Granja, and they surrounded +the palace bawling for the constitution. The regentess, with a proud +reliance upon her own power, ordered them to send a deputation to her +apartment. A dozen of the mutineers came in, and demanded the +constitution. + +"What is that?" asked the queen. + +They looked at each other and cudgelled their brains. They had never +thought of that before. + +"Caramba!" said they. "We don't know. They say it is a good thing, and +will raise our pay and make salt cheaper." + +Their political economy was somewhat flimsy, but they had the bayonets, +and the queen was compelled to give way and proclaim the constitution. + +I must add one trifling reminiscence more of La Granja, which has also +its little moral. A friend of mine, a colonel of engineers, in the +summer before the revolution, was standing before the palace with some +officers, when a mean-looking cur ran past. + +"What an ugly dog!" said the colonel. + +"Hush!" replied another, with an awe-struck face. "That is the dog of +his royal highness the Prince of Asturias." + +The colonel unfortunately had a logical mind, and failed to see that +ownership had any bearing on a purely aesthetic question. He defined his +position. "I do not think the dog is ugly because he belongs to the +prince. I only mean the prince has an ugly dog." + +The window just above them slammed, and another officer came up and said +that the Adversary was to pay. "THE QUEEN was at the window and heard +every word you said." + +An hour after the colonel received an order from the commandant of the +place, revoking his leave of absence and ordering him to duty in Madrid. +It is not very surprising that this officer was at the Bridge of +Alcolea. + +At noon the day grew dark with clouds, and the black storm-wreath came +down over the mountains. A terrific fire of artillery resounded for a +half-hour in the craggy peaks about us, and a driving shower passed over +palace and gardens. Then the sun came out again, the pleasure-grounds +were fresher and greener than ever, and the visitors thronged in the +court of the palace to see the fountains in play. The regent led the way +on foot. The general followed in a pony phaeton, and ministers, +adjutants, and the population of the district trooped along in a +party-colored mass. + +It was a good afternoon's work to visit all the fountains. They are +twenty-six in number, strewn over the undulating grounds. People who +visit Paris usually consider a day of Grandes Eaux at Versailles the +last word of this species of costly trifling. But the waters at +Versailles bear no comparison with those of La Granja. The sense is +fatigued and bewildered here with their magnificence and infinite +variety. The vast reservoir in the bosom of the mountain, filled with +the purest water, gives a possibility of more superb effects than have +been attained anywhere else in the world. The Fountain of the Winds is +one, where a vast mass of water springs into the air from the foot of a +great cavernous rock; there is a succession of exquisite cascades called +the Race-Course, filled with graceful statuary; a colossal group of +Apollo slaying the Python, who in his death agony bleeds a torrent of +water; the Basket of Flowers, which throws up a system of forty jets; +the great single jet called Fame, which leaps one hundred and thirty +feet into the air, a Niagara reversed; and the crowning glory of the +garden, the Baths of Diana, an immense stage scene in marble and bronze, +crowded with nymphs and hunting-parties, wild beasts and birds, and +everywhere the wildest luxuriance of spouting waters. We were told that +it was one of the royal caprices of a recent tenant of the palace to +emulate her chaste prototype of the silver bow by choosing this artistic +basin for her ablutions, a sufficient number of civil guards being +posted to prevent the approach of Castilian Actaeons. Ford aptly remarks +of these extravagant follies: "The yoke of building kings is grievous, +and especially when, as St. Simon said of Louis XIV. and his Versailles, +'II se plut a tyranniser la nature.'" + +As the bilious Philip paused before this mass of sculptured +extravagance, he looked at it a moment with evident pleasure. Then he +thought of the bill, and whined, "Thou hast amused me three minutes and +hast cost me three millions." + +To do Philip justice, he did not allow the bills to trouble him much. He +died owing forty-five million piastres, which his dutiful son refused to +pay. When you deal with Bourbons, it is well to remember the Spanish +proverb, "A sparrow in the hand is better than a bustard on the wing." + +We wasted an hour in walking through the palace. It is, like all +palaces, too fine and dreary to describe. Miles of drawing-rooms and +boudoirs, with an infinity of tapestry and gilt chairs, all the +apartments haunted by the demon of ennui. All idea of comfort is +sacrificed to costly glitter and flimsy magnificence. Some fine +paintings were pining in exile on the desolate walls. They looked +homesick for the Museum, where they could be seen of men. + +The next morning we drove down the mountain and over the rolling plain +to the fine old city of Segovia. In point of antiquity and historic +interest it is inferior to no town in Spain. It has lost its ancient +importance as a seat of government and a mart of commerce. Its +population is now not more than eleven thousand. Its manufactures have +gone to decay. Its woollen works, which once employed fourteen thousand +persons and produced annually twenty-five thousand pieces of cloth, now +sustain a sickly existence and turn out not more than two hundred pieces +yearly. Its mint, which once spread over Spain a Danaean shower of +ounces and dollars, is now reduced to the humble office of striking +copper cuartos. More than two centuries ago this decline began. Boisel, +who was there in 1669, speaks of the city as "presque desert et fort +pauvre." He mentions as a mark of the general unthrift that the day he +arrived there was no bread in town until two o'clock in the afternoon, +"and no one was astonished at it." + +Yet even in its poverty and rags it has the air of a town that has seen +better days. Tradition says it was founded by Hercules. It was an +important city of the Roman Empire, and a great capital in the days of +the Arab monarchy. It was the court of the star-gazing King Alonso the +Wise. Through a dozen centuries it was the flower of the mountains of +Castile. Each succeeding age and race beautified and embellished it, and +each, departing, left the trace of its passage in the abiding granite of +its monuments. The Romans left the glorious aqueduct, that work of +demigods who scorned to mention it in their histories; its mediaeval +bishops bequeathed to later times their ideas of ecclesiastical +architecture; and the Arabs the science of fortification and the +industrial arts. + +Its very ruin and decay makes it only more precious to the traveller. +There are here none of the modern and commonplace evidences of life and +activity that shock the artistic sense in other towns. All is old, +moribund, and picturesque. It lies here in the heart of the Guadarramas, +lost and forgotten by the civilization of the age, muttering in its +senile dream of the glories of an older world. It has not vitality +enough to attract a railroad, and so is only reached by a long and +tiresome journey by diligence. Its solitude is rarely intruded upon by +the impertinent curious, and the red back of Murray is a rare apparition +in its winding streets. + +Yet those who come are richly repaid. One does not quickly forget the +impression produced by the first view of the vast aqueduct, as you drive +into the town from La Granja. It comes upon you in an instant,--the two +great ranges of superimposed arches, over one hundred feet high, +spanning the ravine-like suburb from the outer hills to the Alcazar. You +raise your eyes from the market-place, with its dickering crowd, from +the old and squalid houses clustered like shot rubbish at the foot of +the chasm, to this grand and soaring wonder of utilitarian architecture, +with something of a fancy that it was never made, that it has stood +there since the morning of the world. It has the lightness and the +strength, the absence of ornament and the essential beauty, the vastness +and the perfection, of a work of nature. + +It is one of those gigantic works of Trajan, so common in that +magnificent age that Roman authors do not allude to it. It was built to +bring the cool mountain water of the Sierra Fonfria a distance of nine +miles through the hills, the gulches, and the pine forests of Valsain, +and over the open plain to the thirsty city of Segovia. The aqueduct +proper runs from the old tower of Caseron three thousand feet to the +reservoir where the water deposits its sand and sediment, and thence +begins the series of one hundred and nineteen arches, which traverse +three thousand feet more and pass the valley, the arrabal, and reach the +citadel. It is composed of great blocks of granite, so perfectly framed +and fitted that not a particle of mortar or cement is employed in the +construction. + +The wonder of the work is not so much in its vastness or its beauty as +in its tremendous solidity and duration. A portion of it had been cut +away by barbarous armies during the fifteenth century, and in the reign +of Isabella the Catholic the monk-architect of the Parral, Juan +Escovedo, the greatest builder of his day in Spain, repaired it. These +repairs have themselves twice needed repairing since then. Marshal Ney, +when he came to this portion of the monument, exclaimed, "Here begins +the work of men's hands." + +The true Segovian would hoot at you if you assigned any mortal paternity +to the aqueduct. He calls it the Devil's Bridge, and tells you this +story. The Evil One was in love with a pretty girl of the upper town, +and full of protestations of devotion. The fair Segovian listened to him +one evening, when her plump arms ached with the work of bringing water +from the ravine, and promised eyes of favor if his Infernal Majesty +would build an aqueduct to her door before morning. He worked all night, +like the Devil, and the maiden, opening her black eyes at sunrise, saw +him putting the last stone in the last arch, as the first ray of the sun +lighted on his shining tail. The Church, we think very unfairly, decided +that he had failed, and released the coquettish contractor from her +promise; and it is said the Devil has never trusted a Sego-vian out of +his sight again. + +The bartizaned keep of the Moorish Alcazar is perched on the western +promontory of the city that guards the meeting of the streams Eresma and +Clamores. It has been in the changes of the warring times a palace, a +fortress, a prison (where our friend--everybody's friend--Gil Blas was +once confined), and of late years a college of artillery. In one of its +rooms Alonso the Wise studied the heavens more than was good for his +orthodoxy, and from one of its windows a lady of the court once dropped +a royal baby, of the bad blood of Trasta-mara. Henry of Trastamara will +seem more real if we connect him with fiction. He was the son of "La +Favorita," who will outlast all legitimate princesses, in the deathless +music of Donizetti. + +Driving through a throng of beggars that encumbered the carriage wheels +as grasshoppers sometimes do the locomotives on a Western railway, we +came to the fine Gothic Cathedral, built by Gil de Ontanon, father and +son, in the early part of the sixteenth century. It is a delight to the +eyes; the rich harmonious color of the stone, the symmetry of +proportion, the profuse opulence and grave finish of the details. It was +built in that happy era of architecture when a builder of taste and +culture had all the past of Gothic art at his disposition, and before +the degrading influence of the Jesuits appeared in the churches of +Europe. Within the Cathedral is remarkably airy and graceful in effect. +A most judicious use has been made of the exquisite salmon-colored +marbles of the country in the great altar and the pavement. + +We were met by civil ecclesiastics of the foundation and shown the +beauties and the wonders of the place. Among much that is worthless, +there is one very impressive Descent from the Cross by Juan de Juni, of +which that excellent Mr. Madoz says "it is worthy to rank with the best +masterpieces of Raphael or--Mengs;" as if one should say of a poet that +he was equal to Shakespeare or Southey. + +We walked through the cloisters and looked at the tombs. A flood of warm +light poured through the graceful arches and lit up the trees in the +garden and set the birds to singing, and made these cloisters pleasanter +to remember than they usually are. Our attendant priest told us, with an +earnest credulity that was very touching, the story of Maria del Salto, +Mary of the Leap, whose history was staring at us from the wall. She was +a Jewish lady, whose husband had doubts of her discretion, and so threw +her from a local Tarpeian rock. As she fell she invoked the Virgin, and +came down easily, sustained, as you see in the picture, by her faith and +her petticoats. + +As we parted from the good fathers and entered our carriages at the door +of the church, the swarm of mendicants had become an army. The word had +doubtless gone through the city of the outlandish men who had gone into +the Cathedral with whole coats, and the result was a _levee en masse_ of +the needy. Every coin that was thrown to them but increased the clamor, +as it confirmed them in their idea of the boundless wealth and +munificence of the givers. We recalled the profound thought of Emerson, +"If the rich were only as rich as the poor think them!" + +At last we drove desperately away through the ragged and screaming +throng. We passed by the former home of the Jeronomite monks of the +Parral, which was once called an earthly paradise, and in later years +has been a pen for swine; past crumbling convents and ruined churches; +past the charming Romanesque San Millan, girdled with its round-arched +cloisters; the granite palace of his Reverence the Bishop of Segovia, +and the elegant tower of St. Esteban, where the Roman is dying and the +Gothic is dawning; and every step of the route is a study and a joy to +the antiquarian. + +But though enriched by all these legacies of an immemorial past, there +seems no hope, no future for Segovia. It is as dead as the cities of the +Plain. Its spindles have rusted into silence. Its gay company is gone. +Its streets are too large for the population, and yet they swarm with +beggars. I had often heard it compared in outline to a ship,--the +sunrise astern and the prow pointing westward,--and as we drove away +that day and I looked back to the receding town, it seemed to me like a +grand hulk of some richly laden galleon, aground on the rock that holds +it, alone, abandoned to its fate among the barren billows of the +tumbling ridges, its crew tired out with struggling and apathetic in +despair, mocked by the finest air and the clearest sunshine that ever +shone, and gazing always forward to the new world and the new times +hidden in the rosy sunset, which they shall never see. + + + + +THE CITY OF THE VISIGOTHS + + +Emilio Castelar said to me one day, "Toledo is the most remarkable city +in Spain. You will find there three strata of glories,--Gothic, Arab, +and Castilian,--and an upper crust of beggars and silence." + +I went there in the pleasantest time of the year, the first days of +June. The early harvest was in progress, and the sunny road ran through +golden fields which were enlivened by the reapers gathering in their +grain with shining sickles. The borders of the Tagus were so cool and +fresh that it was hard to believe one was in the arid land of Castile. +From Madrid to Aranjuez you meet the usual landscapes of dun hillocks +and pale-blue vegetation, such as are only seen in nature in Central +Spain, and only seen in art on the matchless canvas of Velazquez. But +from the time you cross the tawny flood of the Tagus just north of +Aranjuez, the valley is gladdened by its waters all the way to the +Primate City. + +I am glad I am not writing a guide-book, and do not feel any +responsibility resting upon me of advising the gentle reader to stop at +Aranjuez or to go by on the other side. There is a most amiable and +praiseworthy class of travellers who feel a certain moral necessity +impelling them to visit every royal abode within their reach. They +always see precisely the same things,--some thousand of gilt chairs, +some faded tapestry and marvellous satin upholstery, a room in +porcelain, and a room in imitation of some other room somewhere else, +and a picture or two by that worthy and tedious young man, Raphael +Mengs. I knew I would see all these things at Aranjuez, and so contented +myself with admiring its pretty site, its stone-cornered brick facade, +its high-shouldered French roof, and its general air of the Place +Royale, from the outside. The gardens are very pleasant, and lonely +enough for the most philosophic stroller. A clever Spanish writer says +of them, "They are sombre as the thoughts of Philip II., mysterious and +gallant as the pleasures of Philip IV." To a revolutionary mind, it is a +certain pleasure to remember that this was the scene of the _emeute_ +that drove Charles IV. from his throne, and the Prince of Peace from his +queen's boudoir. Ferdinand VII., the turbulent and restless Prince of +Asturias, reaped the immediate profit of his father's abdication; but +the two worthless creatures soon called in Napoleon to decide the +squabble, which he did in his leonine way by taking the crown away from +both of them and handing it over for safe-keeping to his lieutenant +brother Joseph. Honor among thieves!--a silly proverb, as one readily +sees if he falls into their hands, or reads the history of kings. + +If Toledo had been built, by some caprice of enlightened power, +especially for a show city, it could not be finer in effect. In detail, +it is one vast museum. In ensemble, it stands majestic on its hills, +with its long lines of palaces and convents terraced around the rocky +slope, and on the height the soaring steeples of a swarm of churches +piercing the blue, and the huge cube of the Alcazar crowning the topmost +crest, and domineering the scene. The magnificent zigzag road which +leads up the steep hillside from the bridge of Alcantara gives an +indefinable impression, as of the lordly ramp of some fortress of +impossible extent. + +This road is new, and in perfect condition. But do not imagine you can +judge the city by the approaches. When your carriage has mounted the +hill and passed the evening promenade of the To-ledans, the quaint +triangular Place,--I had nearly called it Square,--"waking laughter in +indolent reviewers," the Zocodover, you are lost in the dae-dalian +windings of the true streets of Toledo, where you can touch the walls on +either side, and where two carriages could no more pass each other than +two locomotives could salute and go by on the same track. This +interesting experiment, which is so common in our favored land, could +never be tried in Toledo, as I believe there is only one turnout in the +city, a minute omnibus with striped linen hangings at the sides, driven +by a young Castilian whose love of money is the root of much discussion +when you pay his bill. It is a most remarkable establishment. The horses +can cheerfully do their mile in fifteen or twenty minutes, but they make +more row about it than a high-pressure Mississippi steamer; and the +crazy little trap is noisier in proportion to its size than anything I +have ever seen, except perhaps an Indiana tree-toad. If you make an +excursion outside the walls, the omnibus, noise and all, is inevitable; +let it come. But inside the city you must walk; the slower the better, +for every door is a study. + +It is hard to conceive that this was once a great capital with a +population of two hundred thousand souls. You can easily walk from one +end of the city to the other in less than half an hour, and the houses +that remain seem comfortably filled by eighteen thousand inhabitants. +But in this narrow space once swarmed that enormous and busy multitude. +The city was walled about by powerful stone ramparts, which yet stand in +all their massy perfection. So there could have been no suburbs. This +great aggregation of humanity lived and toiled on the crests and in the +wrinkles of the seven hills we see to-day. How important were the +industries of the earlier days we can guess from the single fact that +John of Padilla, when he rose in defence of municipal liberty in the +time of Charles V., drew in one day from the teeming workshops twenty +thousand fighting men. He met the usual fate of all Spanish patriots, +shameful and cruel death. His palace was razed to the ground. Successive +governments, in shifting fever-fits of liberalism and absolutism, have +set up and pulled down his statue. But his memory is loved and honored, +and the example of this noblest of the comuneros impresses powerfully +to-day the ardent young minds of the new Spain. + +Your first walk is of course to the Cathedral, the Primate Church of the +kingdom. Besides its ecclesiastical importance, it is well worthy of +notice in itself. It is one of the purest specimens of Gothic +architecture in existence, and is kept in an admirable state of +preservation. Its situation is not the most favorable. It is approached +by a network of descending streets, all narrow and winding, as streets +were always built under the intelligent rule of the Moors. They +preferred to be cool in summer and sheltered in winter, rather than to +lay out great deserts of boulevards, the haunts of sunstroke and +pneumonia. The site of the Cathedral was chosen from strategic reasons +by St. Eugene, who built there his first Episcopal Church. The Moors +made a mosque of it when they conquered Castile, and the fastidious +piety of St. Ferdinand would not permit him to worship in a shrine thus +profaned. He tore down the old church and laid, in 1227, the +foundations of this magnificent structure, which was two centuries after +his death in building. There is, however, great unity of purpose and +execution in this Cathedral, due doubtless to the fact that the +architect Perez gave fifty years of his long life to the superintendence +of the early work. Inside and outside it is marked by a grave and +harmonious majesty. The great western facade is enriched with three +splendid portals,--the side ones called the doors of Hell and Judgment; +and the central a beautiful ogival arch divided into two smaller ones, +and adorned with a lavish profusion of delicately sculptured figures of +saints and prophets; on the chaste and severe cornice above, a group of +spirited busts represents the Last Supper. There are five other doors to +the temple, of which the door of the Lions is the finest, and just +beside it a heavy Ionic portico in the most detestable taste indicates +the feeling and culture that survived in the reign of Charles IV. + +To the north of the west facade rises the massive tower. It is not among +the tallest in the world, being three hundred and twenty-four feet high, +but is very symmetrical and impressive. In the preservation of its +pyramidal purpose it is scarcely inferior to that most consummate work, +the tower of St. Stephen's in Vienna. It is composed of three +superimposed structures, gradually diminishing in solidity and +massiveness from the square base to the high-springing octagonal spire, +garlanded with thorny crowns. It is balanced at the south end of the +facade by the pretty cupola and lantern of the Mozarabic Chapel, the +work of the Greek Theotocopouli. + +But we soon grow tired of the hot glare of June, and pass in a moment +into the cool twilight vastness of the interior, refreshing to body and +soul. Five fine naves, with eighty-four pillars formed each of sixteen +graceful columns,--the entire edifice measuring four hundred feet in +length and two hundred feet in breadth,--a grand and shadowy temple +grove of marble and granite. At all times the light is of an unearthly +softness and purity, toned by the exquisite windows and rosaces. But as +evening draws on, you should linger till the sacristan grows peremptory, +to watch the gorgeous glow of the western sunlight on the blazing roses +of the portals, and the marvellous play of rich shadows and faint gray +lights in the eastern chapels, where the grand aisles sweep in their +perfect curves around the high altar. A singular effect is here created +by the gilded organ pipes thrust out horizontally from the choir. When +the powerful choral anthems of the church peal out over the kneeling +multitude, it requires little fancy to imagine them the golden trumpets +of concealed archangels, who would be quite at home in that incomparable +choir. + +If one should speak of all the noteworthy things you meet in this +Cathedral, he would find himself in danger of following in the footsteps +of Mr. Parro, who wrote a handbook of Toledo, in which seven hundred and +forty-five pages are devoted to a hasty sketch of the basilica. For five +hundred years enormous wealth and fanatical piety have worked together +and in rivalry to beautify this spot. The boundless riches of the Church +and the boundless superstition of the laity have left their traces here +in every generation in forms of magnificence and beauty. Each of the +chapels--and there are twenty-one of them--is a separate masterpiece in +its way. The finest are those of Santiago and St. Ildefonso,--the former +built by the famous Constable Alvaro de Luna as a burial-place for +himself and family, and where he and his wife lie in storied marble; and +the other commemorating that celebrated visit of the Virgin to the +bishop, which is the favorite theme of the artists and ecclesiastical +gossips of Spain. + +There was probably never a morning call which gave rise to so much talk. +It was not the first time the Virgin had come to Toledo. This was always +a favorite excursion of hers. She had come from time to time, escorted +by St. Peter, St. Paul, and St. James. But on the morning in question, +which was not long after Bishop Ildefonso had written his clever +treatise, "De Virginitate Stae Mariae," the Queen of Heaven came down to +matin prayers, and, taking the bishop's seat, listened to the sermon +with great edification. After service she presented him with a nice new +chasuble, as his own was getting rather shabby, made of "cloth of +heaven," in token of her appreciation of his spirited pamphlet in her +defence. This chasuble still exists in a chest in Asturias. If you open +the chest, you will not see it; but this only proves the truth of the +miracle, for the chroniclers say the sacred vestment is invisible to +mortal eyes. + +But we have another and more palpable proof of the truth of the history. +The slab of marble on which the feet of the celestial visitor alighted +is still preserved in the Cathedral in a tidy chapel built on the very +spot where the avatar took place. The slab is enclosed in red jasper and +guarded by an iron grating, and above it these words of the Psalmist are +engraved in the stone, _Adorabimus in loco ubi steterunt pedes ejus._ + +This story is cut in marble and carved in wood and drawn upon brass and +painted upon canvas, in a thousand shapes and forms all over Spain. You +see in the Museum at Madrid a picture by Murillo devoted to this idle +fancy of a cunning or dreaming priest. The subject was unworthy of the +painter, and the result is what might have been expected,--a picture of +trivial and mundane beauty, without the least suggestion of +spirituality. + +But there can be no doubt of the serious, solemn earnestness with which +the worthy Castilians from that day to this believe the romance. They +came up in groups and families, touching their fingers to the sacred +slab and kissing them reverentially with muttered prayers. A father +would take the first kiss himself, and pass his consecrated finger +around among his awe-struck babes, who were too brief to reach to the +grating. Even the aged verger who showed us the shrine, who was so frail +and so old that we thought he might be a ghost escaped from some of the +mediaeval tombs in the neighborhood, never passed that pretty +white-and-gold chapel without sticking in his thumb and pulling out a +blessing. + +A few feet from this worship-worn stone, a circle drawn on one of the +marble flags marks the spot where Santa Leocadia also appeared to this +same favored Ildefonso and made her compliments on his pamphlet. Was +ever author so happy in his subject and his gentle readers? The good +bishop evidently thought the story of this second apparition might be +considered rather a heavy draught on the credulity of his flock, so he +whipped out a convenient knife and cut off a piece of her saint-ship's +veil, which clinched the narrative and struck doubters dumb. That great +king and crazy relic-hunter, Philip II., saw this rag in his time with +profound emotion,--this tiger heart, who could order the murder of a +thousand innocent beings without a pang. + +There is another chapel in this Cathedral which preaches forever its +silent condemnation of Spanish bigotry to deaf ears. This is the +Mozarabic Chapel, sacred to the celebration of the early Christian rite +of Spain. During the three centuries of Moorish domination the +enlightened and magnanimous conquerors guaranteed to those Christians +who remained within their lines the free exercise of all their rights, +including perfect freedom of worship. So that side by side the mosque +and the church worshipped God each in its own way without fear or wrong. +But when Alonso VI. recaptured the city in the eleventh century, he +wished to establish uniformity of worship, and forbade the use of the +ancient liturgy in Toledo. That which the heathen had respected the +Catholic outraged. The great Cardinal Ximenez restored the primitive +rite and devoted this charming chapel to its service. How ill a return +was made for Moorish tolerance we see in the infernal treatment they +afterwards received from king and Church. They made them choose between +conversion and death. They embraced Christianity to save their lives. +Then the priests said, "Perhaps this conversion is not genuine! Let us +send the heathen away out of our sight." One million of the best +citizens of Spain were thus torn from their homes and landed starving on +the wild African coast. And Te Deums were sung in the churches for this +triumph of Catholic unity. From that hour Spain has never prospered. It +seems as if she were lying ever since under the curse of these breaking +hearts. + +Passing by a world of artistic beauties which never tire the eyes, but +soon would tire the chronicler and reader, stepping over the broad +bronze slab in the floor which covers the dust of the haughty primate +Porto Carrero, but which bears neither name nor date, only this +inscription of arrogant humility, HIC JACET PULVIS CINIS ET NIHIL, we +walk into the verdurous and cheerful Gothic cloisters. They occupy the +site of the ancient Jewish markets, and the zealous prelate Tenorio, +cousin to the great lady's man Don Juan, could think of no better way of +acquiring the ground than that of stirring up the mob to burn the houses +of the heretics. A fresco that adorns the gate explains the means +employed, adding insult to the old injury. It is a picture of a +beautiful child hanging upon a cross; a fiendish-looking Jew, on a +ladder beside him, holds in his hand the child's heart, which he has +just taken from his bleeding breast; he holds the dripping knife in his +teeth. This brutal myth was used for centuries with great effect by the +priesthood upon the mob whenever they wanted a Jew's money or his blood. +Even to-day the old poison has not lost its power. This very morning I +heard under my window loud and shrill voices. I looked out and saw a +group of brown and ragged women, with babies in their arms, discussing +the news from Madrid. The Protestants, they said, had begun to steal +Catholic children. They talked themselves into a fury. Their elf-locks +hung about their fierce black eyes. The sinews of their lean necks +worked tensely in their voluble rage. Had they seen our mild missionary +at that moment, whom all men respect and all children instinctively +love, they would have torn him in pieces in their Maenad fury, and would +have thought they were doing their duty as mothers and Catholics. + +This absurd and devilish charge was seriously made in a Madrid journal, +the organ of the Moderates, and caused great fermentation for several +days, street rows, and debates in the Cortes, before the excitement died +away. Last summer, in the old Murcian town of Lorca, an English +gentleman, who had been several weeks in the place, was attacked and +nearly killed by a mob, who insisted that he was engaged in the business +of stealing children, and using their spinal marrow for lubricating +telegraph wires! What a picture of blind and savage ignorance is here +presented! It reminds us of that sad and pitiful "blood-bath revolt" of +Paris, where the wretched mob rose against the wretched tyrant Louis +XV., accusing him of bathing in the blood of children to restore his own +wasted and corrupted energies. + +Toledo is a city where you should eschew guides and trust implicitly to +chance in your wanderings. You can never be lost; the town is so small +that a short walk always brings you to the river or the wall, and there +you can take a new departure. If you do not know where you are going, +you have every moment the delight of some unforeseen pleasure. There is +not a street in Toledo that is not rich in treasures of +architecture,--hovels that once were marvels of building, balconies of +curiously wrought iron, great doors with sculptured posts and lintels, +with gracefully finished hinges, and studded with huge nails whose +fanciful heads are as large as billiard balls. Some of these are still +handsome residences, but most have fallen into neglect and abandonment. +You may find a beggar installed in the ruined palace of a Moorish +prince, a cobbler at work in the pleasure-house of a Castilian +conqueror. The graceful carvings are mutilated and destroyed, the +delicate arabesques are smothered and hidden under a triple coat of +whitewash. The most beautiful Moorish house in the city, the so-called +Taller del Moro, where the grim governor of Huesca invited four hundred +influential gentlemen of the province to a political dinner, and cut off +all their heads as they entered (if we may believe the chronicle, which +we do not), is now empty and rapidly going to ruin. The exquisite +panelling of the walls, the endlessly varied stucco work that seems to +have been wrought by the deft fingers of ingenious fairies, is +shockingly broken and marred. Gigantic cacti look into the windows from +the outer court. A gay pomegranate-tree flings its scarlet blossoms in +on the ruined floor. Rude little birds have built their nests in the +beautiful fretted rafters, and flutter in and out as busy as brokers. +But of all the feasting and loving and plotting these lovely walls +beheld in that strange age that seems like fable now,--the vivid, +intelligent, scientific, tolerant age of the Moors,--even the memory has +perished utterly and forever. + +We strolled away aimlessly from this beautiful desolation, and soon came +out upon the bright and airy Paseo del Transito. The afternoon sunshine +lay warm on the dull brown suburb, but a breeze blew freshly through the +dark river-gorge, and we sat upon the stone benches bordering the bluff +and gave ourselves up to the scene. To the right were the ruins of the +Roman bridge and the Moorish mills; to the left the airy arch of San +Martin's bridge spanned the bounding torrent, and far beyond stretched +the vast expanse of the green valley refreshed by the river, and rolling +in rank waves of verdure to the blue hills of Guadalupe. Below us on the +slippery rocks that lay at the foot of the sheer cliffs, some luxurious +fishermen reclined, idly watching their idle lines. The hills stretched +away, ragged and rocky, dotted with solitary towers and villas. + +A squad of beggars rapidly gathered, attracted by the gracious faces of +Las Senoras. Begging seems almost the only regular industry of Toledo. +Besides the serious professionals, who are real artists in studied +misery and ingenious deformity, all the children in town occasionally +leave their marbles and their leap-frog to turn an honest penny by +amateur mendicancy. + +A chorus of piteous whines went up. But La Senora was firm. She checked +the ready hands of the juveniles. "Children should not be encouraged to +pursue this wretched life. We should give only to blind men, because +here is a great and evident affliction; and to old women, because they +look so lonely about the boots." The exposition was so subtle and +logical that it admitted no reply. The old women and the blind men +shuffled away with their pennies, and we began to chaff the sturdy and +rosy children. + +A Spanish beggar can bear anything but banter. He is a keen +physiognomist, and selects his victims with unerring acumen. If you +storm or scowl at him, he knows he is making you uncomfortable, and +hangs on like a burr. But if you laugh at him, with good humor, he is +disarmed. A friend of mine reduced to confusion one of the most +unabashed mendicants in Castile by replying to his whining petition, +politely and with a beaming smile, "No, thank you. I never eat them." +The beggar is far from considering his employment a degrading one. It is +recognized by the Church, and the obligation of this form of charity +especially inculcated. The average Spaniard regards it as a sort of tax +to be as readily satisfied as a toll-fee. He will often stop and give a +beggar a cent, and wait for the change in maravedises. One day, at the +railway station, a muscular rogue approached me and begged for alms. I +offered him my _sac-de-nuit_ to carry a block or two. He drew himself up +proudly and said, "I beg your pardon, sir; I am no Gallician." An old +woman came up with a basket on her arm. "Can it be possible in this far +country," said La Senora, "or are these--yes, they are, deliberate +peanuts." With a penny we bought unlimited quantities of this levelling +edible, and with them the devoted adherence of the aged merchant. She +immediately took charge of our education. We must see Santa Maria la +Blanca,--it was a beautiful thing; so was the Transito. Did we see those +men and women grubbing in the hillside? They were digging bones to sell +at the station. Where did the bones come from? Quien sabe? Those +dust-heaps have been there since King Wamba. Come, we must go and see +the Churches of Mary before it grew dark. And the zealous old creature +marched away with us to the synagogue built by Samuel Ben Levi, +treasurer to that crowned panther, Peter the Cruel. This able financier +built this fine temple to the God of his fathers out of his own purse. +He was murdered for his money by his ungrateful lord, and his synagogue +stolen by the Church. It now belongs to the order of Cala-trava. + +But the other and older synagogue, now called Santa Maria la Blanca, is +much more interesting. It stands in the same quarter, the suburb +formerly occupied by the industrious and thriving Hebrews of the Middle +Ages until the stupid zeal of the Catholic kings drove them out of +Spain. The synagogue was built in the ninth century under the +enlightened domination of the Moors. At the slaughter of the Jews in +1405 it became a church. It has passed through varying fortunes since +then, having been hospital, hermitage, stable, and warehouse; but it is +now under the care of the provincial committee of art, and is somewhat +decently restored. Its architecture is altogether Moorish. It has three +aisles with thick octagonal columns supporting heavy horseshoe arches. +The spandrels are curiously adorned with rich circular stucco figures. +The soil you tread is sacred, for it was brought from Zion long before +the Crusades; the cedar rafters above you preserve the memory and the +odors of Lebanon. + +A little farther west, on a fine hill overlooking the river, in the +midst of the ruined palaces of the early kings, stands the beautiful +votive church of San Juan de los Reyes. It was built by Ferdinand and +Isabella, before the Columbus days, to commemorate a victory over their +neighbors the Portuguese. During a prolonged absence of the king, the +pious queen, wishing to prepare him a pleasant surprise, instead of +embroidering a pair of impracticable slippers as a faithful young wife +would do nowadays, finished this exquisite church by setting at work +upon it some regiments of stone-cutters and builders. It is not +difficult to imagine the beauty of the structure that greeted the king +on his welcome home. For even now, after the storms of four centuries +have beaten upon it, and the malignant hands of invading armies have +used their utmost malice against it, it is still a won-drously perfect +work of the Gothic inspiration. + +We sat on the terrace benches to enjoy the light and graceful lines of +the building, the delicately ornate door, the unique drapery of iron +chains which the freed Christians hung here when delivered from the +hands of the Moors. A lovely child, with pensive blue eyes fringed with +long lashes, and the slow sweet smile of a Madonna, sat near us and sang +to a soft, monotonous air a war-song of the Carlists. Her beauty soon +attracted the artistic eyes of La Senora, and we learned she was named +Francisca, and her baby brother, whose flaxen head lay heavily on her +shoulder, was called Jesus Mary. She asked, Would we like to go into the +church? She knew the sacristan and would go for him. She ran away like a +fawn, the tow head of little Jesus tumbling dangerously about. She +reappeared in a moment; she had disposed of mi nino, as she called it, +and had found the sacristan. This personage was rather disappointing. A +sacristan should be aged and mouldy, clothed in black of a decent +shabbiness. This was a Toledan swell in a velvet shooting-jacket, and +yellow peg-top trousers. However, he had the wit to confine himself to +turning keys, and so we gradually recovered from the shock of the +shooting-jacket. + +The church forms one great nave, divided into four vaults enriched with +wonderful stone lace-work. A superb frieze surrounds the entire nave, +bearing in great Gothic letters an inscription narrating the foundation +of the church. Everywhere the arms of Castile and Arragon, and the +wedded ciphers of the Catholic kings. Statues of heralds start +unexpectedly out from the face of the pillars. Fine as the church is, we +cannot linger here long. The glory of San Juan is its cloisters. It may +challenge the world to show anything so fine in the latest bloom and +last development of Gothic art. One of the galleries is in ruins,--a sad +witness of the brutality of armies. But the three others are enough to +show how much of beauty was possible in that final age of pure Gothic +building. The arches bear a double garland of leaves, of flowers, and of +fruits, and among them are ramping and writhing and playing every figure +of bird or beast or monster that man has seen or poet imagined. There +are no two arches alike, and yet a most beautiful harmony pervades them +all. In some the leaves are in profile, in others delicately spread upon +the graceful columns and every vein displayed. I saw one window where a +stone monkey sat reading his prayers, gowned and cowled,--an odd caprice +of the tired sculptor. There is in this infinite variety of detail a +delight that ends in something like fatigue. You cannot help feeling +that this was naturally and logically the end of Gothic art. It had run +its course. There was nothing left but this feverish quest of variety. +It was in danger, after having gained such divine heights of invention, +of degenerating into prettinesses and affectation. + +But how marvellously fine it was at last! One must see it, as in these +unequalled cloisters, half ruined, silent, and deserted, bearing with +something of conscious dignity the blows of time and the ruder wrongs of +men, to appreciate fully its proud superiority to all the accidents of +changing taste and modified culture. It is only the truest art that can +bear that test. The fanes of Paestum will always be more beautiful even +than the magical shore on which they stand. The Parthenon, fixed like a +battered coronet on the brow of the Acropolis, will always be the +loveliest sight that Greece can offer to those who come sailing in from +the blue Aegean. It is scarcely possible to imagine a condition of +thought or feeling in which these master-works shall seem quaint or +old-fashioned. They appeal, now and always, with that calm power of +perfection, to the heart and eyes of every man born of woman. + +The cloisters enclose a little garden just enough neglected to allow the +lush dark ivy, the passionflowers, and the spreading oleanders to do +their best in beautifying the place, as men have done their worst in +marring it. The clambering vines seem trying to hide the scars of their +hardly less perfect copies. Every arch is adorned with a soft and +delicious drapery of leaves and tendrils; the fair and outraged child of +art is cherished and caressed by the gracious and bountiful hands of +Mother Nature. + +As we came away, little Francisca plucked one of the five-pointed leaves +of the passion-flowers and gave it to La Senora, saying reverentially, +"This is the Hand of Our Blessed Lord!" + +The sun was throned, red as a bacchanal king, upon the purple hills, as +we descended the rocky declivity and crossed the bridge of St. Martin. + +Our little Toledan maid came with us, talking and singing incessantly, +like a sweet-voiced starling. We rested on the farther side and looked +back at the towering city, glorious in the sunset, its spires aflame, +its long lines of palace and convent clear in the level rays, its ruins +softened in the gathering shadows, the lofty bridge hanging transfigured +over the glowing river. Before us the crumbling walls and turrets of the +Gothic kings ran down from the bluff to the water-side, its terrace +overlooking the baths where, for his woe, Don Roderick saw Count +Julian's daughter under the same inflammatory circumstances as those in +which, from a Judaean housetop, Don David beheld Captain Uriah's wife. +There is a great deal of human nature abroad in the world in all ages. + +Little Francisca kept on chattering. "That is St. Martin's bridge. A +girl jumped into the water last year. She was not a lady. She was in +service. She was tired of living because she was in love. They found her +three weeks afterwards; but, Santisima Maria! she was good for nothing +then." + +Our little maid was too young to have sympathy for kings or servant +girls who die for love. She was a pretty picture as she sat there, her +blue eyes and Madonna face turned to the rosy west, singing in her sweet +child's voice her fierce little song of sedition and war:-- + + "Arriba los valientes! + Abajo tirania! + Pronto llegara el dia + De la Restauracion. + + Carlistas a caballo! + Soldados en Campana! + Viva el Rey de Espana, + Don Carlos de Borbon!" + +I cannot enumerate the churches of Toledo,--you find them in every +street and by-way. In the palmy days of the absolute theocracy this +narrow space contained more than a hundred churches and chapels. The +province was gnawed by the cancer of sixteen monasteries of monks and +twice as many convents of nuns, all crowded within these city walls. +Fully one half the ground of the city was covered by religious buildings +and mortmain property. In that age, when money meant ten times what it +signifies now, the rent-roll of the Church in Toledo was forty millions +of reals. There are even yet portions of the town where you find nothing +but churches and convents. The grass grows green in the silent streets. +You hear nothing but the chime of bells and the faint echoes of masses. +You see on every side bolted doors and barred windows, and, gliding over +the mossy pavements, the stealthy-stepping, long-robed priests. + +I will only mention two more churches, and both of these converts from +heathendom; both of them dedicated to San Cristo, for in the democracy +of the calendar the Saviour is merely a saint, and reduced to the level +of the rest. One is the old pretorian temple of the Romans, which was +converted by King Sizebuto into a Christian church in the seventh +century. It is a curious structure in brick and mortar, with an apsis +and an odd arrangement of round arches sunken in the outer wall and +still deeper pointed ones. It is famed as the resting-place of Saints +Ildefonso and Leocadia, whom we have met before. The statue of the +latter stands over the door graceful and pensive enough for a heathen +muse. The little cloisters leading to the church are burial vaults. On +one side lie the canonical dead and on the other the laity, with bright +marble tablets and gilt inscriptions. In the court outside I noticed a +flat stone marked _Ossuarium._ The sacristan told me this covered the +pit where the nameless dead reposed, and when the genteel people in the +gilt marble vaults neglected to pay their annual rent, they were taken +out and tumbled in to moulder with the common clay. + +This San Cristo de la Vega, St. Christ of the Plain, stands on the wide +flat below the town, where you find the greater portion of the Roman +remains. Heaps of crumbling composite stretched in an oval form over the +meadow mark the site of the great circus. Green turf and fields of +waving grain occupy the ground where once a Latin city stood. The Romans +built on the plain. The Goths, following their instinct of isolation, +fixed their dwelling on the steep and rugged rock. The rapid Tagus +girdling the city like a horseshoe left only the declivity to the west +to be defended, and the ruins of King Wamba's wall show with what +jealous care that work was done. But the Moors, after they captured the +city, apparently did little for its defence. A great suburb grew up in +the course of ages outside the wall, and when the Christians recaptured +Toledo in 1085, the first care of Alonso VI. was to build another wall, +this time nearer the foot of the hill, taking inside all the accretion +of these years. From that day to this that wall has held Toledo. The +city has never reached, perhaps will never reach, the base of the steep +rock on which it stands. + +When King Alonso stormed the city, his first thought, in the busy half +hour that follows victory, was to find some convenient place to say his +prayers. Chance led him to a beautiful little Moorish mosque or oratory +near the superb Puerta del Sol. He entered, gave thanks, and hung up his +shield as a votive offering. This is the Church of San Cristo de la Luz. +The shield of Alonso hangs there defying time for eight centuries,--a +golden cross on a red field,--and the exquisite oratory, not much larger +than a child's toy-house, is to-day one of the most charming specimens +of Moorish art in Spain. Four square pillars support the roof, which is +divided into five equal "half-orange" domes, each different from the +others and each equally fascinating in its unexpected simplicity and +grace. You cannot avoid a feeling of personal kindliness and respect for +the refined and genial spirit who left this elegant legacy to an alien +race and a hostile creed. + +The Military College of Santa Cruz is one of the most precious specimens +extant of those somewhat confused but beautiful results of the +transition from florid Gothic to the Renaissance. The plateresque is +young and modest, and seeks to please in this splendid monument by +allying the innovating forms with the traditions of a school outgrown. +There is an exquisite and touching reminiscence of the Gothic in the +superb portal and the matchless group of the Invention of the Cross. All +this fine facade is by that true and genuine artist, Enrique de Egas, +the same who carved the grand Gate of the Lions, for which may the gate +of paradise be open to him. + +The inner court is surrounded by two stories of airy arcades, supported +by slim Corinthian columns. In one corner is the most elaborate +staircase in Spain. All the elegance and fancy of Arab and Renaissance +art have been lavished upon this masterly work. + +Santa Cruz was built for a hospital by that haughty Cardinal Mendoza, +the Tertius Rex of Ferdinand and Isabella. It is now occupied by the +military school, which receives six hundred cadets. They are under the +charge of an inspector-general and a numerous staff of professors. They +pay forty cents a day for their board. The instruction is gratuitous and +comprehends a curriculum almost identical with that of West Point. It +occupies, however, only three years. + +The most considerable Renaissance structure in Toledo is the Royal +Alcazar. It covers with its vast bulk the highest hilltop in the city. +From the earliest antiquity this spot has been occupied by a royal +palace or fortress. But the present structure was built by Charles V. +and completed by Herrera for Philip II. Its north and south facades are +very fine. The Alcazar seems to have been marked by fate. The Portuguese +burned it in the last century, and Charles III. restored it just in time +for the French to destroy it anew. Its indestructible walls alone +remain. Now, after many years of ruinous neglect, the government has +begun the work of restoration. The vast quadrangle is one mass of +scaffolding and plaster dust. The grand staircase is almost finished +again. In the course of a few years we may expect to see the Alcazar in +a state worthy of its name and history. We would hope it might never +again shelter a king. They have had their day there. Their line goes +back so far into the mists of time that its beginning eludes our utmost +search. The Roman drove out the unnamed chiefs of Iberia. The +fair-haired Goth dispossessed the Italian. The Berber destroyed the +Gothic monarchy. Castile and Leon fought their way down inch by inch +through three centuries from Covadonga to Toledo, halfway in time and +territory to Granada and the Midland Sea. And since then how many royal +feet have trodden this breezy crest,--Sanchos and Henrys and +Ferdinands,--the line broken now and then by a usurping uncle or a +fratricide brother,--a red-handed bastard of Trastamara, a star-gazing +Alonso, a plotting and praying Charles, and, after Philip, the dwindling +scions of Austria and the nullities of Bourbon. This height has known as +well the rustle of the trailing robes of queens,--Berenguela, Isabel the +Catholic, and Juana,--Crazy Jane. It was the prison of the widow of +Philip IV. and mother of Charles II. What wonder if her life left much +to be desired? With such a husband and such a son, she had no memories +nor hopes. + +The kings have had a long day here. They did some good in their time. +But the world has outgrown them, and the people, here as elsewhere, is +coming of age. This Alcazar is built more strongly than any dynasty. It +will make a glorious school-house when the repairs are finished and the +Republic is established, and then may both last forever! + +One morning at sunrise, I crossed the ancient bridge of Alcantara, and +climbed the steep hill east of the river to the ruined castle of San +Cervantes, perched on a high, bold rock, which guards the river and +overlooks the valley. Near as it is to the city, it stands entirely +alone. The instinct of aggregation is so powerful in this people that +the old towns have no environs, no houses sprinkled in the outlying +country, like modern cities. Every one must be huddled inside the walls. +If a solitary house, like this castle, is built without, it must be in +itself an impregnable fortress. This fine old ruin, in obedience to this +instinct of jealous distrust, has but one entrance, and that so narrow +that Sir John Falstaff would have been embarrassed to accept its +hospitalities. In the shade of the broken walls, grass-grown and gay +with scattered poppies, I looked at Toledo, fresh and clear in the early +day. On the extreme right lay the new spick-and-span bull-ring, then the +great hospice and Chapel of St. John the Baptist, the Convent of the +Immaculate Conception, and next, the Latin cross of the Chapel of Santa +Cruz, whose beautiful fagade lay soft in shadow; the huge arrogant bulk +of the Alcazar loomed squarely before me, hiding half the view; to the +left glittered the slender spire of the Cathedral, holding up in the +pure air that emblem of august resignation, the triple crown of thorns; +then a crowd of cupolas, ending at last near the river-banks with the +sharp angular mass of San Cristobal. The field of vision was filled with +churches and chapels, with the palaces of the king and the monk. Behind +me the waste lands went rolling away untilled to the brown Toledo +mountains. Below, the vigorous current of the Tagus brawled over its +rocky bed, and the distant valley showed in its deep rich green what +vitality there was in those waters if they were only used. + +A quiet, as of a plague-stricken city, lay on Toledo. A few mules wound +up the splendid roads with baskets of vegetables. A few listless +fishermen were preparing their lines. The chimes of sleepy bells floated +softly out on the morning air. They seemed like the requiem of municipal +life and activity slain centuries ago by the crozier and the crown. + +Thank Heaven, that double despotism is wounded to death. As Chesterfield +predicted, before the first muttering of the thunders of '89, "the +trades of king and priest have lost half their value." With the decay of +this unrighteous power, the false, unwholesome activity it fostered has +also disappeared. There must be years of toil and leanness, years +perhaps of struggle and misery, before the new genuine life of the +people springs up from beneath the dead and withered rubbish of temporal +and spiritual tyranny. Freedom is an angel whose blessing is gained by +wrestling. + + + + +THE ESCORIAL + + +The only battle in which Philip II. was ever engaged was that of St. +Quentin, and the only part he took in that memorable fight was to listen +to the thunder of the captains and the shouting afar off, and pray with +great unction and fervor to various saints of his acquaintance and +particularly to St. Lawrence of the Gridiron, who, being the celestial +officer of the day, was supposed to have unlimited authority, and to +whom he was therefore profuse in vows. While Egmont and his stout +Flemings were capturing the Constable Montmorency and cutting his army +in pieces, this young and chivalrous monarch was beating his breast and +pattering his panic-stricken prayers. As soon as the victory was won, +however, he lost his nervousness, and divided the entire credit of it +between himself and his saints. He had his picture painted in full +armor, as he appeared that day, and sent it to his doting spouse, Bloody +Mary of England. He even thought he had gained glory enough, and while +his father, the emperor-monk, was fiercely asking the messenger who +brought the news of victory to Yuste, "Is my son at Paris?" the prudent +Philip was making a treaty of peace, by which his son Don Carlos was to +marry the Princess Elizabeth of France. But Mary obligingly died at this +moment, and the stricken widower thought he needed consolation more than +his boy, and so married the pretty princess himself. + +He always prided himself greatly on the battle of St. Quentin, and +probably soon came to believe he had done yeoman service there. The +childlike credulity of the people is a great temptation to kings. It is +very likely that after the coup-d'etat of December, the trembling puppet +who had sat shivering over his fire in the palace of the Elysee while +Morny and Fleury and St. Arnaud and the rest of the cool gamblers were +playing their last desperate stake on that fatal night, really persuaded +himself that the work was his, and that _he_ had saved society. That the +fly should imagine he is moving the coach is natural enough; but that +the horses, and the wooden lumbering machine, and the passengers should +take it for granted that the light gilded insect is carrying them +all,--there is the true miracle. + +We must confess to a special fancy for Philip II. He was so true a king, +so vain, so superstitious, so mean and cruel, it is probable so great a +king never lived. Nothing could be more royal than the way he +distributed his gratitude for the victory on St. Lawrence's day. To +Count Egmont, whose splendid courage and loyalty gained him the battle, +he gave ignominy and death on the scaffold; and to exhibit a gratitude +to a myth which he was too mean to feel to a man, he built to San +Lorenzo that stupendous mass of granite which is to-day the visible +demonstration of the might and the weakness of Philip and his age. + +He called it the Monastery of San Lorenzo el Real, but the nomenclature +of the great has no authority with the people. It was built on a site +once covered with cinder-heaps from a long abandoned iron-mine, and so +it was called in common speech the Escorial. The royal seat of San +Ildefonso can gain from the general public no higher name than La +Granja, the Farm. The great palace of Catharine de Medici, the home of +three dynasties, is simply the Tuileries, the Tile-fields. You cannot +make people call the White House the Executive Mansion. A merchant named +Pitti built a palace in Florence, and though kings and grand dukes have +inhabited it since, it is still the Pitti. There is nothing so +democratic as language. You may alter a name by trick when force is +unavailing. A noble lord in Segovia, following the custom of the good +old times, once murdered a Jew, and stole his house. It was a pretty +residence, but the skeleton in his closet was that the stupid commons +would not call it anything but "the Jew's house." He killed a few of +them for it, but that did not serve. At last, by advice of his +confessor, he had the facade ornamented with projecting knobs of stucco, +and the work was done. It is called to this day "the knobby house." + +The conscience of Philip did not permit a long delay in the +accomplishment of his vow. Charles V. had charged him in his will to +build a mausoleum for the kings of the Austrian race. He bound the two +obligations in one, and added a third destination to the enormous pile +he contemplated. It should be a palace as well as a monastery and a +royal charnel-house. He chose the most appropriate spot in Spain for the +erection of the most cheerless monument in existence. He had fixed his +capital at Madrid because it was the dreariest town in Spain, and to +envelop himself in a still profounder desolation, he built the Escorial +out of sight of the city, on a bleak, bare hillside, swept by the +glacial gales of the Guadarrama, parched by the vertical suns of summer, +and cursed at all seasons with the curse of barrenness. Before it towers +the great chain of mountains separating Old and New Castile. Behind it +the chilled winds sweep down to the Madrid plateau, over rocky hillocks +and involved ravines,--a scene in which probably no man ever took +pleasure except the royal recluse who chose it for his home. + +John Baptist of Toledo laid the corner-stone on an April day of 1563, +and in the autumn of 1584 John of Herrera looked upon the finished work, +so vast and so gloomy that it lay like an incubus upon the breast of +earth. It is a parallelogram measuring from north to south seven hundred +and forty-four feet, and five hundred and eighty feet from east to west. +It is built, by order of the fantastic bigot, in the form of St. +Lawrence's gridiron, the courts representing the interstices of the +bars, and the towers at the corners sticking helpless in the air like +the legs of the supine implement. It is composed of a clean gray +granite, chiefly in the Doric order, with a severity of facade that +degenerates into poverty, and defrauds the building of the effect its +great bulk merits. The sheer monotonous walls are pierced with eleven +thousand windows, which, though really large enough for the rooms, seem +on that stupendous surface to shrink into musketry loopholes. In the +centre of the parallelogram stands the great church, surmounted by its +soaring dome. All around the principal building is stretched a +circumscribing line of convents, in the same style of doleful +yellowish-gray uniformity, so endless in extent that the inmates might +easily despair of any world beyond them. + +There are few scenes in the world so depressing as that which greets you +as you enter into the wide court before the church, called El Templo. +You are shut finally in by these iron-gray walls. The outside day has +given you up. Your feet slip on the damp flags. An unhealthy fungus +tinges the humid corners with a pallid green. You look in vain for any +trace of human sympathy in those blank walls and that severe facade. +There is a dismal attempt in that direction in the gilded garments and +the painted faces of the colossal prophets and kings that are perched +above the lofty doors. But they do not comfort you; they are tinselled +stones, not statues. + +Entering the vestibule of the church, and looking up, you observe with a +sort of horror that the ceiling is of massive granite and flat. The +sacristan has a story that when Philip saw this ceiling, which forms the +floor of the high choir, he remonstrated against it as too audacious, +and insisted on a strong pillar being built to support it. The architect +complied, but when Philip came to see the improvement he burst into +lamentation, as the enormous column destroyed the effect of the great +altar. The canny architect, who had built the pillar of pasteboard, +removed it with a touch, and his majesty was comforted. Walking forward +to the edge of this shadowy vestibule, you recognize the skill and taste +which presided at this unique and intelligent arrangement of the choir. +If left, as usual, in the body of the church, it would have seriously +impaired that solemn and simple grandeur which distinguishes this above +all other temples. There is nothing to break the effect of the three +great naves, divided by immense square-clustered columns, and surmounted +by the vast dome that rises with all the easy majesty of a mountain more +than three hundred feet from the decent black and white pavement. I know +of nothing so simple and so imposing as this royal chapel, built purely +for the glory of God and with no thought of mercy or consolation for +human infirmity. The frescos of Luca Giordano show the attempt of a +later and degenerate age to enliven with form and color the sombre +dignity of this faultless pile. But there is something in the blue and +vapory pictures which shows that even the unabashed Luca was not free +from the impressive influence of the Escorial. + +A flight of veined marble steps leads to the beautiful retable of the +high altar. The screen, over ninety feet high, cost the Milanese Trezzo +seven years of labor. The pictures illustrative of the life of our Lord +are by Tibaldi and Zuccaro. The gilt bronze tabernacle of Trezzo and +Herrera, which has been likened with the doors of the Baptistery of +Florence as worthy to figure in the architecture of heaven, no longer +exists. It furnished a half hour's amusement to the soldiers of France. +On either side of the high altar are the oratories of the royal family, +and above them are the kneeling effigies of Charles, with his wife, +daughter, and sisters, and Philip with his successive harem of wives. +One of the few luxuries this fierce bigot allowed himself was that of a +new widowhood every few years. There are forty other altars with +pictures good and bad. The best are by the wonderful deaf-mute, +Navarrete, of Logrono, and by Sanchez Coello, the favorite of Philip. + +To the right of the high altar in the transept you will find, if your +tastes, unlike Miss Riderhood's, run in a bony direction, the most +remarkable Reliquary in the world. With the exception perhaps of Cuvier, +Philip could see more in a bone than any man who ever lived. In his long +life of osseous enthusiasm he collected seven thousand four hundred and +twenty-one genuine relics,--whole skeletons, odd shins, teeth, +toe-nails, and skulls of martyrs,--sometimes by a miracle of special +grace getting duplicate skeletons of the same saint. The prime jewels of +this royal collection are the grilled bones of San Lorenzo himself, +bearing dim traces of his sacred gridiron. + +The sacristan will show you also the retable of the miraculous wafer, +which bled when trampled on by Protestant heels at Gorcum in 1525. This +has always been one of the chief treasures of the Spanish crown. The +devil-haunted idiot Charles II. made a sort of idol of it, building it +this superb altar, consecrated "in this miracle of earth to the miracle +of heaven." When the atheist Frenchmen sacked the Escorial and stripped +it of silver and gold, the pious monks thought most of hiding this +wonderful wafer, and when the storm passed by, the booby Ferdinand VII. +restored it with much burning of candles, swinging of censers, and +chiming of bells. Worthless as it is, it has done one good work in the +world. It inspired the altar-picture of Claudio Coello, the last best +work of the last of the great school of Spanish painters. He finished it +just before he died of shame and grief at seeing Giordano, the nimble +Neapolitan, emptying his buckets of paint on the ceiling of the grand +staircase, where St. Lawrence and an army of martyrs go sailing with a +fair wind into glory. + +The great days of art in the Escorial are gone. Once in every nook and +corner it concealed treasures of beauty that the world had nearly +forgotten. The Perla of Raphael hung in the dark sacristy. The Cena of +Titian dropped to pieces in the refectory. The Gloria, which had sunk +into eclipse on the death of Charles V., was hidden here among +unappreciative monks. But on the secularization of the monasteries, +these superb canvases went to swell the riches of the Royal Museum. +There are still enough left here, however, to vindicate the ancient fame +of the collection. They are perhaps more impressive in their beauty and +loneliness than if they were pranking among their kin in the glorious +galleries and perfect light of that enchanted palace of Charles III. The +inexhaustible old man of Cadora has the Prayer on Mount Olivet, an Ecce +Homo, an Adoration of the Magi. Velazquez one of his rare scriptural +pieces, Jacob and his Children. Tintoretto is rather injured at the +Museo by the number and importance of his pictures left in this monkish +twilight; among them is a lovely Esther, and a masterly Presentation of +Christ to the People. Plenty of Giordanos and Bassanos and one or two +by El Greco, with his weird plague-stricken faces, all chalk and +charcoal. A sense of duty will take you into the crypt where the dead +kings are sleeping in brass. This mausoleum, ordered by the great +Charles, was slow in finishing. All of his line had a hand in it down to +Philip IV., who completed it and gathered in the poor relics of royal +mortality from many graves. The key of the vault is the stone where the +priest stands when he elevates the Host in the temple above. The vault +is a graceful octagon about forty feet high, with nearly the same +diameter; the flickering light of your torches shows twenty-six +sarcophagi, some occupied and some empty, filling the niches of the +polished marble. On the right sleep the sovereigns, on the left their +consorts. There is a coffin for Dona Isabel de Bourbon among the kings, +and one for her amiable and lady-like husband among the queens. They +were not lovely in their lives, and in their deaths they shall be +divided. The quaint old church-mouse who showed me the crypt called my +attention to the coffin where Maria Louisa, wife of Charles IV.,--the +lady who so gallantly bestrides her war-horse, in the uniform of a +colonel, in Goya's picture,--coming down those slippery steps with the +sure footing of feverish insanity, during a severe illness, scratched +_Luisa_ with the point of her scissors and marked the sarcophagus for +her own. All there was good of her is interred with her bones. Her +frailties live on in scandalized history. + +Twice, it is said, the coffin of the emperor has been opened by curious +hands,--by Philip IV., who found the corpse of his great ancestor +intact, and observed to the courtier at his elbow, "An honest body, Don +Luis!" and again by the Ministers of State and Fomento in the spring of +1870, who started back aghast when the coffin-lid was lifted and +disclosed the grim face of the Burgess of Ghent, just as Titian painted +him,--the keen, bold face of a world-stealer. + +I do not know if Philip's funeral urn was ever opened. He stayed above +ground too long as it was, and it is probable that people have never +cared to look upon his face again. All that was human had died out of +him years before his actual demise, and death seemed not to consider it +worth while to carry off a vampire. Go into the little apartment where +his last days were passed; a wooden table and book-shelf, one arm-chair +and two stools--the one upholstered with cloth for winter, the other +with tin for summer--on which he rested his gouty leg, and a low chair +for a secretary,--this was all the furniture he used. The rooms are not +larger than cupboards, low and dark. The little oratory where he died +looks out upon the high altar of the Temple. In a living death, as if by +an awful anticipation of the common lot it was ordained that in the +flesh he should know corruption, he lay waiting his summons hourly for +fifty-three days. What tremendous doubts and fears must have assailed +him in that endless agony! He had done more for the Church than any +living man. He was the author of that sublime utterance of uncalculating +bigotry, "Better not reign than reign over heretics." He had pursued +error with fire and sword. He had peopled limbo with myriads of rash +thinkers. He had impoverished his kingdom in Catholic wars. Yet all this +had not sufficed. He lay there like a leper smitten by the hand of the +God he had so zealously served. Even in his mind there was no peace. He +held in his clenched hand his father's crucifix, which Charles had held +in his exultant death at Yuste. Yet in his waking hours he was never +free from the horrible suggestion that he had not done enough for +salvation. He would start in horror from a sleep that was peopled with +shapes from torment. Humanity was avenged at last. + +So powerful is the influence of a great personality that in the Escorial +you can think of no one but Philip II. He lived here only fourteen +years, but every corridor and cloister seems to preserve the souvenir of +his sombre and imperious genius. For two and a half centuries his feeble +successors have trod these granite halls; but they flit through your +mind pale and unsubstantial as dreams. The only tradition they preserved +of their great descent was their magnificence and their bigotry. There +has never been one utterance of liberty or free thought inspired by this +haunted ground. The king has always been absolute here, and the monk has +been the conscience-keeper of the king. The whole life of the Escorial +has been unwholesomely pervaded by a flavor of holy water and burial +vaults. There was enough of the repressive influence of that savage +Spanish piety to spoil the freshness and vigor of a natural life, but +not enough to lead the court and the courtiers to a moral walk and +conversation. It was as profligate a court in reality, with all its +masses and monks, as the gay and atheist circle of the Regent of +Orleans. Even Philip, the Inquisitor King, did not confine his royal +favor to his series of wives. A more reckless and profligate young +prodigal than Don Carlos, the hope of Spain and Rome, it would be hard +to find to-day at Mabille or Cre-morne. But he was a deeply religious +lad for all that, and asked absolution from his confessors before +attempting to put in practice his intention of killing his father. +Philip, forewarned, shut him up until he died, in an edifying frame of +mind, and then calmly superintended the funeral arrangements from a +window of the palace. The same mingling of vice and superstition is seen +in the lessening line down to our day. The last true king of the old +school was Philip IV. Amid the ruins of his tumbling kingdom he lived +royally here among his priests and his painters and his ladies. There +was one jealous exigency of Spanish etiquette that made his favor fatal. +The object of his adoration, when his errant fancy strayed to another, +must go into a convent and nevermore be seen of lesser men. Madame +Daunoy, who lodged at court, heard one night an august footstep in the +hall and a kingly rap on the bolted door of a lady of honor. But we are +happy to say she heard also the spirited reply from within, "May your +grace go with God! I do not wish to be a nun!" + +There is little in these frivolous lives that is worth knowing,--the +long inglorious reigns of the dwindling Austrians and the parody of +greater days played by the scions of Bourbon, relieved for a few +creditable years by the heroic struggle of Charles III. against the +hopeless decadence. You may walk for an hour through the dismal line of +drawing-rooms in the cheerless palace that forms the gridiron's handle, +and not a spirit is evoked from memory among all the tapestry and +panelling and gilding. + +The only cheerful room in this granite wilderness is the library, still +in good and careful keeping. A long, beautiful room, two hundred feet of +bookcases, and tasteful frescos by Tibaldi and Carducho, representing +the march of the liberal sciences. Most of the older folios are bound in +vellum, with their gilded edges, on which the title is stamped, turned +to the front. A precious collection of old books and older manuscripts, +useless to the world as the hoard of a miser. Along the wall are hung +the portraits of the Escorial kings and builders. The hall is furnished +with marble and porphyry tables, and elaborate glass cases display some +of the curiosities of the library,--a copy of the Gospels that belonged +to the Emperor Conrad, the Suabian Kurz; a richly illuminated +Apocalypse; a gorgeous missal of Charles V.; a Greek Bible, which once +belonged to Mrs. Phcebus's ancestor Cantacuzene; Persian and Chinese +sacred books; and a Koran, which is said to be the one captured by Don +Juan at Lepanto. Mr. Ford says it is spurious; Mr. Madoz says it is +genuine. The ladies with whom I had the happiness to visit the library +inclined to the latter opinion for two very good reasons,--the book is a +very pretty one, and Mr. Madoz's head is much balder than Mr. Ford's. +Wandering aimlessly through the frescoed cloisters and looking in at all +the open doors, over each of which a cunning little gridiron is inlaid +in the woodwork, we heard the startling and unexpected sound of boyish +voices and laughter. We approached the scene of such agreeable tumult, +and found the theatre of the monastery full of young students rehearsing +a play for the coming holidays. A clever-looking priest was directing +the drama, and one juvenile Thespis was denouncing tyrants and dying for +his country in hexameters of a shrill treble. His friends were +applauding more than was necessary or kind, and flourishing their wooden +swords with much ferocity of action. All that is left of the once +extensive establishment of the monastery is a boys' school, where some +two hundred youths are trained in the humanities, and a college where an +almost equal number are educated for the priesthood. + +So depressing is the effect of the Escorial's gloom and its memories, +that when you issue at last from its massive doors, the trim and +terraced gardens seem gay and heartsome, and the bleak wild scene is +full of comfort. For here at least there is light and air and boundless +space. You have emerged from the twilight of the past into the present +day. The sky above you bends over Paris and Cheyenne. By this light +Darwin is writing, and the merchants are meeting in the Chicago Board of +Trade. Just below you winds the railway which will take you in two hours +to Madrid,--to the city of Philip II., where the nineteenth century has +arrived; where there are five Protestant churches and fifteen hundred +evangelical communicants. Our young crusader, Professor Knapp, holds +night schools and day schools and prayer meetings, with an active +devotion, a practical and American fervor, that is leavening a great +lump of apathy and death. These Anglo-Saxon missionaries have a larger +and more tolerant spirit of propaganda than has been hitherto seen. They +can differ about the best shape for the cup and the platter, but they +use what they find to their hand. They are giving a tangible direction +and purpose to the vague impulse of reform that was stirring, before +they came, in many devout hearts. A little while longer of this state of +freedom and inquiry, and the shock of controversy will come, and Spain +will be brought to life. + +Already the signs are full of promise. The ancient barriers of +superstition have already given way in many places. A Protestant can not +only live in Spain, but, what was once a more important matter, he can +die and be buried there. This is one of the conquests of the revolution. +So delicate has been the susceptibility of the Spanish mind in regard to +the pollution of its soil by heretic corpses that even Charles I. of +England, when he came a-wooing to Spain, could hardly gain permission to +bury his page by night in the garden of the embassy; and in later days +the Prussian Minister was compelled to smuggle his dead child out of the +kingdom among his luggage to give it Christian burial. Even since the +days of September the clergy has fought manfully against giving +sepulture to Protestants; but Rivero, alcalde of Madrid and president of +the Cortes, was not inclined to waste time in dialectics, and sent a +police force to protect the heretic funerals and to arrest any priest +who disturbed them. There is freedom of speech and printing. The +humorous journals are full of blasphemous caricatures that would be +impossible out of a Catholic country, for superstition and blasphemy +always run in couples. It was the Duke de Guise, commanding the pope's +army at Civitella, who cried in his rage at a rain which favored Alva, +"God has turned Spaniard;" like Quashee, who burns his fetish when the +weather is foul. The liberal Spanish papers overflowed with wit at the +proclamation of infallibility. They announced that his holiness was now +going into the lottery business with brilliant prospects of success; +that he could now tell what Father Manterola had done with the thirty +thousand dollars' worth of bulls he sold last year and punctually +neglects to account for, and other levities of the sort, which seemed +greatly relished, and which would have burned the facetious author two +centuries before, and fined and imprisoned him before the fight at +Alcolea. The minister having charge of the public instruction has +promised to present a law for the prohibition of dogmatic doctrine in +the national schools. The law of civil registry and civil marriage, +after a desperate struggle in the Cortes, has gone into operation with +general assent. There is a large party which actively favors the entire +separation of the spiritual from the temporal power, making religion +voluntary, and free, and breaking its long concubinage with the crown. +The old superstition, it is true, still hangs like a malarial fog over +Spain. But it is invaded by flashes and rays of progress. It cannot +resist much longer the sunshine of this tolerant age. + +Far up the mountain-side, in the shade of a cluster of chestnuts, is a +rude block of stone, called the "King's Chair," where Philip used to sit +in silent revery, watching as from an eyry the progress of the enormous +work below. If you go there, you will see the same scene upon which his +basilisk glance reposed,--in a changed world, the .same unchanging +scene,--the stricken waste, the shaggy horror of the mountains, the +fixed plain wrinkled like a frozen sea, and in the centre of the perfect +picture the vast chill bulk of that granite pile, rising cold, +colorless, and stupendous, as if carved from an iceberg by the hand of +Northern gnomes. It is the palace of vanished royalty, the temple of a +religion which is dead. There are kings and priests still, and will be +for many coming years. But never again can a power exist which shall +rear to the glory of the sceptre and the cowl a monument like this. It +is a page of history deserving to be well pondered, for it never will be +repeated. The world which Philip ruled from the foot of the Guadarrama +has passed away. A new heaven and a new earth came in with the thunders +of 1776 and 1789. There will be no more Pyramids, no more Versailles, no +more Escoriais. The unpublished fiat has gone forth that man is worth +more than the glory of princes. The better religion of the future has +no need of these massive dungeon-temples of superstition and fear. Yet +there is a store of precious teachings in this mass of stone. It is one +of the results of that mysterious law to which the genius of history has +subjected the caprices of kings, to the end that we might not be left +without a witness of the past for our warning and example,--the law +which induces a judged and sentenced dynasty to build for posterity some +monument of its power, which hastens and commemorates its ruin. By +virtue of this law we read on the plains of Egypt the pride and the fall +of the Pharaohs. Before the fagade of Versailles we see at a glance the +grandeur of the Capetian kings and the necessity of the Revolution. And +the most vivid picture of that fierce and gloomy religion of the +sixteenth century, compounded of a base alloy of worship for an absolute +king and a vengeful God, is to be found in this colossal hermitage in +the flinty heart of the mountains of Castile. + + + + +A MIRACLE PLAY + + +In the windy month of March a sudden gloom falls upon Madrid,--the +reaction after the _folie gaiete_ of the Carnival. The theatres are at +their gayest in February until Prince Carnival and his jolly train +assault the town, and convert the temples of the drama into ball-rooms. +They have not yet arrived at the wonderful expedition and despatch +observed in Paris, where a half hour is enough to convert the grand +opera into the masked ball. The invention of this process of flooring +the orchestra flush with the stage and making a vast dancing-hall out of +both is due to an ingenious courtier of the regency, bearing the great +name of De Bouillon, who got much credit and a pension by it. In Madrid +they take the afternoon leisurely to the transformation, and the +evening's performance is of course sacrificed. So the sock and buskin, +not being adapted to the cancan, yielded with February, and the theatres +were closed finally on Ash Wednesday. + +Going by the pleasant little theatre of Lope de Rueda, in the Calle +Barquillo, I saw the office-doors open, the posters up, and an +unmistakable air of animation among the loungers who mark with a seal so +peculiar the entrance of places of amusement. Struck by this apparent +levity in the midst of the general mortification, I went over to look at +the bills and found the subject announced serious enough for the most +Lenten entertainment,--Los Siete Dolores de Maria,--The Seven Sorrows of +Mary,--the old mediaeval Miracle of the Life of the Saviour. + +This was bringing suddenly home to me the fact that I was really in a +Catholic country. I had never thought of going to Ammergau, and so, when +reading of these shows, I had entertained no more hope of seeing one +than of assisting at an auto-da-fe or a witch-burning. I went to the +box-office to buy seats. But they were all sold. The forestallers had +swept the board. I was never able to determine whether I most pitied or +despised these pests of the theatre. Whenever a popular play is +presented, a dozen ragged and garlic-odorous vagabonds go early in the +day and buy as many of the best places as they can pay for. They hang +about the door of the theatre all day, and generally manage to dispose +of their purchases at an advance. But it happens very often that they +are disappointed; that the play does not draw, or that the evening +threatens rain, and the Spaniard is devoted to his hat. He would keep +out of a revolution if it rained. So that, at the pleasant hour when the +orchestra are giving the last tweak to the key of their fiddles, you may +see these woebegone wretches rushing distractedly from the Piamonte to +the Alcala, offering their tickets at a price which falls rapidly from +double to even, and tumbles headlong to half-price at the first note of +the opening overture. When I see the fore-staller luxuriously basking at +the office-door in the warm sunshine, and scornfully refusing to treat +for less than twice the treasurer's figures, I feel a divided +indignation against the nuisance and the management that permits it. But +when in the evening I meet him haggard and feverish, hawking his unsold +places in desperate panic on the sidewalk, I cannot but remember that +probably a half dozen dirty and tawny descendants of Pelayo will eat no +beans to-morrow for those unfortunate tickets, and my wrath melts, and I +buy his crumpled papers, moist with the sweat of anxiety, and add a +slight propina, which I fear will be spent in aguardiente to calm his +shattered nerves. + +This day the sky looked threatening, and my shabby hidalgo listened to +reason, and sold me my places at their price and a _petit verre._ + +As we entered in the evening the play had just begun. The scene was the +interior of the Temple at Jerusalem, rather well done,--two ranges of +superimposed porphyry columns with a good effect of oblique perspective, +which is very common in the Spanish theatres. St. Simeon, in a dress +suspiciously resembling that of the modern bishop, was talking with a +fiery young Hebrew who turns out to be Demas, the Penitent Thief, and +who is destined to play a very noticeable part in the evening's +entertainment. He has received some slight from the government +authorities and does not propose to submit to it. The aged and +cooler-blooded Simeon advises him to do nothing rash. Here at the very +outset is a most characteristic Spanish touch. You are expected to be +interested in Demas, and the only crime which could appeal to the +sympathies of a Castilian crowd would be one committed at the promptings +of injured dignity. + +There is a soft, gentle strain of music played pianissimo by the +orchestra, and, surrounded by a chorus of mothers and maidens, the +Virgin Mother enters with the Divine Child in her arms. The Madonna is a +strapping young girl named Gutierrez, a very clever actress; and the +Child has been bought in the neighboring toy-shop, a most palpable and +cynical wax-doll. The doll is handed to Simeon, and the solemn ceremony +of the Presentation is performed to fine and thoughtful music. St. +Joseph has come in sheepishly by the flies with his inseparable staff +crowned with a garland of lilies, which remain miraculously fresh during +thirty years or so, and kneels at the altar, on the side opposite to +Miss Gutierrez. + +As the music ceases, Simeon starts as from a trance and predicts in a +few rapid couplets the sufferings and the crucifixion of the child. Mary +falls overwhelmed into the arms of her attendants, and Simeon exclaims, +"Most blessed and most unfortunate among women! thy heart is to be +pierced with Seven Sorrows, and this is the first." Demas rushes in and +announces the massacre of the innocents, concluding with the appropriate +reflection, "Perish the kings! always the murderers of the people." This +sentiment is so much to the taste of the gamins of the paraiso that they +vociferously demand an encore; but the Roman soldiers come in and +commence the pleasing task of prodding the dolls in the arms of the +chorus. + +The next act is the Flight into Egypt. The curtain rises on a rocky +ravine with a tinsel torrent in the background and a group of robbers on +the stage. Gestas, the impenitent thief, stands sulky and glum in a +corner, fingering his dagger as you might be sure he would, and +informing himself in a growling soliloquy that his heart is consumed +with envy and hate because he is not captain. The captain, one Issachar, +comes in, a superbly handsome young fellow, named Mario, to my thinking +the first comedian in Spain, dressed in a flashy suit of leopard hides, +and announces the arrival of a stranger. Enters Demas, who says he hates +the world and would fain drink its foul blood. He is made politely +welcome. No! he will be captain or nothing. Issachar laughs scornfully +and says _he_ is in the way of that modest aspiration. But Demas +speedily puts him out of the way with an Albacete knife, and becomes +captain, to the profound disgust of the impenitent Gestas, who exclaims, +just as the profane villains do nowadays on every well-conducted stage, +"Damnation! foiled again!" + +The robbers pick up their idolized leader and pitch him into the tinsel +torrent. This is also extremely satisfactory to the wide-awake young +Arabs of the cock-loft. The bandits disperse, and Demas indulges in some +fifty lines of rhymed reflections, which are interrupted by the approach +of the Holy Family, hotly pursued by the soldiery of Herod. They stop +under a sycamore tree, which instantly, by very clever machinery, bends +down its spreading branches and miraculously hides them from the +bloodthirsty legionaries. These pass on, and Demas leads the saintly +trio by a secret pass over the torrent,--the Mother and Child mounted +upon an ass and St. Joseph trudging on behind with his lily-decked +staff, looking all as if they were on a short leave of absence from +Correggio's picture-frame. + +Demas comes back, calls up his merrymen, and has a battle-royal with the +enraged legionaries, which puts the critics of the gallery into a frenzy +of delight and assures the success of the spectacle. The curtain falls +in a gust of applause, is stormed up again, Demas comes forward and +makes a neat speech, announcing the author. Que salga! roar the +gods,--"Trot him out!" A shabby young cripple hobbles to the front, +leaning upon a crutch, his sallow face flushed with a hectic glow of +pride and pleasure. He also makes a glib speech,--I have never seen a +Spaniard who could not,--disclaiming all credit for himself, but lauding +the sublimity of the acting and the perfection of the scene-painting, +and saying that the memory of this unmerited applause will be forever +engraved upon his humble heart. + +Act third, the Lost Child, or Christ in the Temple. The scene is before +the Temple on a festival day, plenty of chorus-girls, music, and +flowers. Demas and the impenitent Gestas and Barabbas, who, I was +pleased to see, was after all a very good sort of fellow, with no more +malice than you or I, were down in the city on a sort of lark, their +leopard skins left in the mountains and their daggers hid under the +natty costume of the Judaean dandy of the period. Demas and Gestas have +a quarrel, in which Gestas is rather roughly handled, and goes off +growling like every villain, _qui se respecte,--_"I will have +r-revenge." Barabbas proposes to go around to the cider-cellars, but +Demas confides to him that he is enslaved by a dream of a child, who +said to him, "Follow me--to Paradise;" that he had come down to +Jerusalem to seek and find the mysterious infant of his vision. The +jovial Barabbas seems imperfectly impressed by these transcendental +fancies, and at this moment Mary comes in dressed like a Madonna of +Guido Reni, and soon after St. Joseph and his staff. They ask each other +where is the Child,--a scene of alarm and bustle, which ends by the door +of the Temple flying open and discovering, shrined in ineffable light, +Jesus teaching the doctors. + +In the fourth act, Demas meets a beautiful woman by the city gate, in +the loose, graceful dress of the Hetairai, and the most wonderful +luxuriance of black curls I have ever seen falling in dense masses to +her knees. After a conversation of amorous banter, he gives her a +golden chain, which she assumes, well pleased, and gives him her name, +La Magdalena. A motley crowd of street loafers here rushed upon the +scene, and I am sure there was no one of Northern blood in the theatre +that did not shudder for an instant at the startling apparition that +formed the central figure of the group. The world has long ago agreed +upon a typical face and figure for the Saviour of men; it has been +repeated on myriads of canvases and reproduced in thousands of statues, +till there is scarcely a man living that does not have the same image of +the Redeemer in his mind. Well, that image walked quietly upon the +stage, so perfect in make-up that you longed for some error to break the +terrible vraisemblance. I was really relieved when the august appearance +spoke, and I recognized the voice of a young actor named Morales, a +clever light comedian of the Bressant type. + +The Magdalene is soon converted by the preaching of the Nazarene +Prophet, and the scene closes by the triumphant entry into Jerusalem +amid the waving of palm-branches, the strewing of flowers, and "sonorous +metal blowing martial sounds." The pathetic and sublime lament, +"Jerusalem! Jerusalem! thou that killest the prophets!" was delivered +with great 'feeling and power. + +The next act brings us before the judgment-seat of Pontius Pilate. This +act is almost solely horrible. The Magdalene in her garb of penitence +comes in to beg the release of Jesus of Nazareth. Pontius, who is +represented as a gallant old gentleman, says he can refuse nothing to a +lady. The prisoner is dragged in by two ferocious ruffians, who beat and +buffet him with absurd and exaggerated violence. There is nothing more +hideous than the awful concreteness of this show,--the naked +helplessness of the prisoner, his horrible, cringing, overdone humility, +the coarse kicking and cuffing of the deputy sheriffs. The Prophet is +stripped and scourged at the pillar until he drops from exhaustion. He +is dragged anew before Pilate and examined, but his only word is, "Thou +hast said." The scene lasts nearly an hour. The theatre was full of +sobbing women and children. At every fresh brutality I could hear the +weeping spectators say, "Pobre Jesus!" "How wicked they are!" The bulk +of the audience was of people who do not often go to theatres. They +looked upon the revolting scene as a real and living fact. One +hard-featured man near me clenched his fists and cursed the cruel +guards. A pale, delicate-featured girl who was leaning out of her box, +with her brown eyes, dilated with horror, fixed upon the scene, suddenly +shrieked as a Roman soldier struck the unresisting Saviour, and fell +back fainting in the arms of her friends. + +The Nazarene Prophet was condemned at last. Gestas gives evidence +against him, and also delivers Demas to the law, but is himself +denounced, and shares their sentence. The crowd howled with exultation, +and Pilate washed his hands in impotent rage and remorse. The curtain +came down leaving the uncultivated portion of the audience in the frame +of mind in which their ancestors a few centuries earlier would have gone +from the theatre determined to serve God and relieve their feelings by +killing the first Jew they could find. The diversion was all the better, +because safer, if they happened to the good luck of meeting a Hebrew +woman or child. + +The Calle de Amargura--the Street of Bitterness--was the next scene. +First came a long procession of official Romans,--lictors and swordsmen, +and the heralds announcing the day's business. Demas appears, dragged +along with vicious jerks to execution. The Saviour follows, and falls +under the weight of the cross before the footlights. Another long and +dreary scene takes place, of brutalities from the Roman soldiers, the +ringleader of whom is a sanguinary Andalusian ingeniously encased in a +tin barrel, a hundred lines of rhymed sorrow from the Madonna, and a +most curious scene of the Wandering Jew. This worthy, who in defiance of +tradition is called Samuel, is sitting in his doorway watching the show, +when the suffering Christ begs permission to rest a moment on his +threshold. He says churlishly, Anda!--"Begone!" "I will go, but thou +shalt go forever until I come." The Jew's feet begin to twitch +convulsively, as if pulled from under him. He struggles for a moment, +and at last is carried off by his legs, which are moved like those of +the walking dolls with the Greek names. This odd tradition, so utterly +in contradiction with the picture the Scriptures give us of the meek +dignity with which the Redeemer forgave all personal injuries, has taken +a singular hold upon the imaginations of all peoples. Under varying +names,---Ahasuerus, Salathiel, le Juif Errant, der ewige Jude,--his +story is the delight and edification of many lands; and I have met some +worthy people who stoutly insisted that they had read it in the Bible. + +The sinister procession moves on. The audience, which had been somewhat +cheered by the prompt and picturesque punishment inflicted upon the +inhospitable Samuel, was still further exhilarated by the spectacle of +the impenitent traitor Gestas, staggering under an enormous cross, his +eyes and teeth glaring with abject fear, with an athletic Roman haling +him up to Calvary with a new hempen halter. + +A long intermission followed, devoted to putting babies to sleep,--for +there were hundreds of them, wide-eyed and strong-lunged,--to smoking +the hasty cigarette, to discussing the next combination of Prim or the +last scandal in the gay world. The carpenters were busy behind the +scenes building the mountain. When the curtain rose, it was worth +waiting for. It was an admirable scene. A genuine Spanish mountain, +great humpy undulations of rock and sand, gigantic cacti for all +vegetation, a lurid sky behind, but not over-colored. A group of Roman +soldiers in the foreground, in the rear the hill, and the executioners +busily employed in nailing the three victims to their crosses. Demas was +fastened first; then Gestas, who, when undressed for execution, was a +superb model of a youthful Hercules. But the third cross still lay on +the ground; the hammering and disputing and coming and going were +horribly lifelike and real. + +At last the victim is securely nailed to the wood, and the cross is +slowly and clumsily lifted and falls with a shock into its socket. The +soldiers _huzza.,_ the fiend in the tin barrel and another in a tin hat +come down to the footlights and throw dice for the raiment. "Caramba! +curse my luck!" says our friend in the tin case, and the other walks off +with the vestment. + +The Passion begins, and lasts an interminable time. The grouping is +admirable, every shifting of the crowd in the foreground produces a new +and finished picture, with always the same background of the three high +crosses and their agonizing burdens against that lurid sky. The +impenitent Gestas curses and dies; the penitent Demas believes and +receives eternal rest. The Holy Women come in and group themselves in +picturesque despair at the foot of the cross. The awful drama goes on +with no detail omitted,--the thirst the sponge dipped in vinegar, the +cry of desolation, the spear-thrust, the giving up of the ghost. The +stage-lights are lowered. A thick darkness--of crape--comes down over +the sky. Horror falls on the impious multitude, and the scene is +deserted save by the faithful. + +The closing act opens with a fine effect of moon and stars. "Que linda +luna!" sighed a young woman beside me, drying her tears, comforted by +the beauty of the scene. The central cross is bathed in the full +splendor that is denied the others. Joseph of Abarimathea (as he is here +called) comes in with ladders and winding-sheets, and the dead Christ is +taken from the cross. The Descent is managed with singular skill and +genuine artistic feeling. The principal actor, who has been suspended +for an hour in a most painful and constrained posture, has a corpse-like +rigidity and numbness. There is one moment when you can almost imagine +yourself in Antwerp, looking at that sublimest work of Rubens. The +Entombment ends, and the last tableau is of the Mater Dolorosa in the +Solitude. I have rarely seen an effect so simple, and yet so +striking,--the darkened stage, the softened moonlight, the now Holy Rood +spectral and tall against the starry sky, and the Dolorous Mother, alone +in her sublime sorrow, as she will be worshipped and revered for coming +aeons. + +A curious observation is made by all foreigners, of the absence of the +apostles from the drama. They appear from time to time, but merely as +supernumeraries. One would think that the character of Judas was +especially fitted for dramatic use. I spoke of this to a friend, and he +said that formerly the false apostle was introduced in the play, but +that the sight of him so fired the Spanish heart that not only his life, +but the success of the piece was endangered. This reminds one of Mr. A. +Ward's account of a high-handed outrage at "Utiky," where a young +gentleman of good family stove in the wax head of "Jewdas Iscarrit," +characterizing him at the same time as a "pew-serlanimous cuss." + +"To see these Mysteries in their glory," continued my friend, "you +should go into the small towns in the provinces, uncontaminated with +railroads or unbelief. There they last several days The stage is the +town, the Temple scene takes place in the church, the Judgment at the +city hall, and the procession of the Via Crucis moves through all the +principal streets. The leading roles are no joke,--carrying fifty kilos +of wood over the mud and cobble-stones for half a day. The Judas or +Gestas must be paid double for the kicks and cuffs he gets from +tender-hearted spectators,--the curses he accepts willingly as a tribute +to his dramatic ability. His proudest boast in the evening is Querian +matarme,--'They wanted to kill me!' I once saw the hero of the drama +stop before a wine-shop, sweating like rain, and positively swear by the +life of the Devil, he would not carry his gallows a step farther unless +he had a drink. They brought him a bottle of Valdepenas, and he drained +it before resuming his way to Golgotha. Some of us laughed +thoughtlessly, and narrowly escaped the knives of the orthodox ruffians +who followed the procession." + +The most striking fact in this species of exhibition is the evident and +unquestioning faith of the audience. To all foreigners the show is at +first shocking and then tedious; to the good people of Madrid it is a +sermon, full of absolute truth and vivid reality. The class of persons +who attend these spectacles is very different from that which you find +at the Royal Theatre or the Comic Opera. They are sober, serious +bourgeois, who mind their shops and go to mass regularly, and who come +to the theatre only in Lent, when the gay world stays away. They would +not dream of such an indiscretion as reading the Bible. Their doctrinal +education consists of their catechism, the sermons of the curas, and the +traditions of the Church. The miracle of St. Veronica, who, wiping the +brow of the Saviour in the Street of Bitterness, finds his portrait on +her handkerchief, is to them as real and reverend as if it were related +by the evangelist. The spirit of inquiry which has broken so many idols, +and opened such new vistas of thought for the minds of all the world, is +as yet a stranger to Spain. It is the blind and fatal boast of even the +best of Spaniards that their country is a unit in religious faith. Nunca +se disputo en Espana,--"There has never been any discussion in +Spain,"--exclaims proudly an eminent Spanish writer. Spectacles like +that which we have just seen were one of the elements which in a +barbarous and unenlightened age contributed strongly to the +consolidation of that unthinking and ardent faith which has fused the +nation into one torpid and homogeneous mass of superstition. No better +means could have been devised for the purpose. Leaving out of view the +sublime teachings of the large and tolerant morality of Jesus, the +clergy made his personality the sole object of worship and reverence. By +dwelling almost exclusively upon the story of his sufferings, they +excited the emotional nature of the ignorant, and left their intellects +untouched and dormant. They aimed to arouse their sympathies, and when +that was done, to turn their natural resentment against those whom the +Church considered dangerous. To the inflamed and excited worshippers, a +heretic was the enemy of the crucified Saviour, a Jew was his murderer, +a Moor was his reviler. A Protestant wore to their bloodshot eyes the +semblance of the torturer who had mocked and scourged the meek Redeemer, +who had crowned his guileless head with thorns, who had pierced and +slain him. The rack, the gibbet, and the stake were not enough to glut +the pious hate this priestly trickery inspired. It was not enough that +the doubter's life should go out in the blaze of the crackling fagots, +but it must be loaded in eternity with the curses of the faithful. + +Is there not food for earnest thought in the fact that faith in Christ, +which led the Puritans across the sea to found the purest social and +political system which the wit of man has yet evolved from the tangled +problems of time, has dragged this great Spanish people down to a depth +of hopeless apathy, from which it may take long years of civil tumult to +raise them? May we not find the explanation of this strange phenomenon +in the contrast of Catholic unity with Protestant diversity? "Thou that +killest the prophets!"--the system to which this apostrophe can be +applied is doomed. And it matters little who the prophets may be. + + + + +THE CRADLE AND THE GRAVE OF CERVANTES + + +In Rembrandt Peale's picture of the Court of Death a cadaverous shape +lies for judgment at the foot of the throne, touching at either +extremity the waters of Lethe. There is something similar in the history +of the greatest of Spanish writers. No man knew, for more than a century +after the death of Cervantes, the place of his birth and burial. About a +hundred years ago the investigations of Rios and Pellicer established +the claim of Alcala de Henares to be his native city; and last year the +researches of the Spanish Academy have proved conclusively that he is +buried in the Convent of the Trinitarians in Madrid. But the precise +spot where he was born is only indicated by vague tradition; and the +shadowy conjecture that has so long hallowed the chapel and cloisters of +the Calle Cantarranas has never settled upon any one slab of their +pavement. + +It is, however, only the beginning and the end of this most chivalrous +and genial apparition of the sixteenth century that is concealed from +our view. We know where he was christened and where he died. So that +there are sufficiently authentic shrines in Alcala and Madrid to satisfy +the most sceptical pilgrims. + +I went to Alcala one summer day, when the bare fields were brown and dry +in their after-harvest nudity, and the hills that bordered the winding +Henares were drab in the light and purple in the shadow. From a distance +the town is one of the most imposing in Castile. It lies in the midst of +a vast plain by the green water-side, and the land approach is fortified +by a most impressive wall emphasized by sturdy square towers and +flanking bastions. But as you come nearer you see this wall is a +tradition. It is almost in ruins. + +The crenellated towers are good for nothing but to sketch. A short walk +from the station brings you to the gate, which is well defended by a +gang of picturesque beggars, who are old enough to have sat for Murillo, +and revoltingly pitiable enough to be millionaires by this time, if +Castilians had the cowardly habit of sponging out disagreeable +impressions with pennies. At the first charge we rushed in panic into a +tobacco-shop and filled our pockets with maravedis, and thereafter faced +the ragged battalion with calm. + +It is a fine, handsome, and terribly lonesome town. Its streets are +wide, well built, and silent v as avenues in a graveyard. On every hand +there are tall and stately churches, a few palaces, and some two dozen +great monasteries turning their long walls, pierced with jealous grated +windows, to the grass-grown streets. In many quarters there is no sign +of life, no human habitations among these morose and now empty barracks +of a monkish army. Some of them have been turned into military casernes, +and the bright red and blue uniforms of the Spanish officers and +troopers now brighten the cloisters that used to see nothing gayer than +the gowns of cord-girdled friars. A large garrison is always kept here. +The convents are convenient for lodging men and horses. The fields in +the vicinity produce great store of grain and alfalfa,--food for beast +and rider. It is near enough to the capital to use the garrison on any +sudden emergency, such as frequently happens in Peninsular politics. + +The railroad that runs by Alcala has not brought with it any taint of +the nineteenth century. The army is a corrupting influence, but not +modern. The vice that follows the trail of armies, or sprouts, +fungus-like, about the walls of barracks, is as old as war, and links +the present, with its struggle for a better life, to the old mediaeval +world of wrong. These trim fellows in loose trousers and embroidered +jackets are the same race that fought and drank and made prompt love in +Italy and Flanders and butchered the Aztecs in the name of religion +three hundred years ago. They have laid off their helmets and hauberks, +and use the Berdan rifle instead of the Roman spear. But they are the +same careless, idle, dissolute bread-wasters now as then. + +The town has not changed in the least. It has only shrunk a little. You +think sometimes it must be a vacation, and that you will come again when +people return. The little you see of the people is very attractive. +Passing along the desolate streets, you glance in at an open door and +see a most delightful cabinet picture of domestic life. All the doors in +the house are open. You can see through the entry, the front room, into +the cool court beyond, gay with oleanders and vines, where a group of +women half dressed are sewing and spinning and cheering their souls with +gossip. If you enter under pretence of asking a question, you will be +received with grave courtesy, your doubts solved, and they will bid you +go with God, with the quaint^ frankness of patriarchal times. + +They do not seem to have been spoiled by overmuch travel. Such +impressive and Oriental courtesy could not have survived the trampling +feet of the great army of tourists. On our pilgrim-way to the cradle of +Cervantes we came suddenly upon the superb facade of the university. +This is one of the most exquisite compositions of plateresque in +existence. The entire front of the central body of the building is +covered with rich and tasteful ornamentation. Over the great door is an +enormous escutcheon of the arms of Austria, supported by two finely +carved statues,--on the one side a nearly nude warrior, on the other the +New World as a feather-clad Indian woman. Still above this a fine, bold +group of statuary, representing, with that reverent naivete of early +art, God the Father in the work of creation. Surrounding the whole front +as with a frame, and reaching to the ground on either side, is carved +the knotted cord of the Franciscan monks. No description can convey the +charming impression given by the harmony of proportion and the loving +finish of detail everywhere seen in this beautifully preserved fagade. +While we were admiring it an officer came out of the adjoining cuartel +and walked by us with jingling spurs. I asked him if one could go +inside. He shrugged his shoulders with a Quien sabe? indicating a doubt +as profound as if I had asked him whether chignons were worn in the +moon. He had never thought of anything inside. There was no wine nor +pretty girls there. Why should one want to go in? We entered the cool +vestibule, and were ascending the stairs to the first court, when a +porter came out of his lodge and inquired our errand. We were wandering +barbarians with an eye to the picturesque, and would fain see the +university, if it were not unlawful. He replied, in a hushed and +scholastic tone of voice, and with a succession of confidential winks +that would have inspired confidence in the heart of a Talleyrand, that +if our lordships would give him our cards he had no doubt he could +obtain the required permission from the rector. He showed us into a dim, +claustral-looking anteroom, in which, as I was told by my friend, who +trifles in lost moments with the integral calculus, there were +seventy-two chairs and one microscopic table. The wall was decked with +portraits of the youth of the college, all from the same artist, who +probably went mad from the attempt to make fifty beardless faces look +unlike each other. We sat for some time mourning over his failure, until +the door opened, and not the porter, but the rector himself, a most +courteous and polished gentleman in the black robe and three-cornered +hat of his order, came in and graciously placed himself and the +university at our disposition. We had reason to congratulate ourselves +upon this good fortune. He showed us every nook and corner of the vast +edifice, where the present and the past elbowed each other at every +turn: here the boys' gymnasium, there the tomb of Valles; here the new +patent cocks of the water-pipes, and there the tri-lingual patio where +Alonso Sanchez lectured in Arabic, Greek, and Chaldean, doubtless making +a choice hash of the three; the airy and graceful paraninfo, or hall of +degrees, a masterpiece of Moresque architecture, with a gorgeous +panelled roof, a rich profusion of plaster arabesques, and, _horresco +referens,_ the walls covered with a bright French paper. Our good rector +groaned at this abomination, but said the Gauls had torn away the +glorious carved panelling for firewood in the war of 1808, and the +college was too poor to restore it. His righteous indignation waxed hot +again when we came to the beautiful sculptured pulpit of the chapel, +where all the delicate details are degraded by a thick coating of +whitewash, which in some places has fallen away and shows the gilding of +the time of the Catholic kings. + +There is in this chapel a picture of the Virgin appearing to the great +cardinal whom we call Ximenez and the Spaniards Cisneros, which is +precious for two reasons. The portrait of Ximenez was painted from life +by the nameless artist, who, it is said, came from France for the +purpose, and the face of the Virgin is a portrait of Isabella the +Catholic. It is a good wholesome face, such as you would expect. But the +thin, powerful profile of Ximenez is very striking, with his red hair +and florid tint, his curved beak, and long, nervous lips. He looks not +unlike that superb portrait Raphael has left of Cardinal Medici. + +This university is fragrant with the good fame of Ximenez. In the +principal court there is a fine medallion of the illustrious founder and +protector, as he delighted to be drawn, with a sword in one hand and a +crucifix in the other,--twin brother in genius and fortune of the +soldier-priest of France, the Cardinal-Duke Richelieu. On his gorgeous +sarcophagus you read the arrogant epitaph with which he revenged himself +for the littleness of kings and courtiers:-- + +"Praetextam junxi sacco, galeamque galero, Frater, dux, praesul, +cardineusque pater. Quin, virtute mea junctum est diadema cucullo, Dum +mihi regnanti patuit Gesperia." + +By a happy chance our visit was made in a holiday time, and the students +were all away. It was better that there should be perfect solitude and +silence as we walked through the noble system of buildings and strove to +re-create the student world of Cervantes's time. The chronicle which +mentions the visit of Francis I. to Alcala, when a prisoner in Spain, +says he was received by eleven thousand students. This was only twenty +years before the birth of Cervantes. The world will never see again so +brilliant a throng of ingenuous youth as gathered together in the great +university towns in those years of vivid and impassioned greed for +letters that followed the revival of learning. The romance of Oxford or +Heidelberg or Harvard is tame compared with that electric life of a +new-born world that wrought and flourished in Padua, Paris, and Alcala. +Walking with my long-robed scholarly guide through the still, shadowy +courts, under Renaissance arches and Moorish roofs, hearing him talking +with enthusiasm of the glories of the past and never a word of the +events of the present, in his pure, strong, guttural Castilian, no +living thing in view but an occasional Franciscan gliding under the +graceful arcades, it was not difficult to imagine the scenes of the +intense young life which filled these noble halls in that fresh day of +aspiration and hope, when this Spanish sunlight fell on the marble and +the granite bright and sharp from the chisel of the builder, and the +great Ximenez looked proudly on his perfect work and saw that it was +good. + +The twilight of superstition still hung heavily over Europe. But this +was nevertheless the breaking of dawn, the herald of the fuller day of +investigation and inquiry. + +It was into this rosy morning of the modern world that Cervantes was +ushered in the season of the falling leaves of 1547. He was born to a +life of poverty and struggle and an immortality of fame. His own city +did not know him while he lived, and now is only known through him. +Pilgrims often come from over distant seas to breathe for one day the +air that filled his baby lungs, and to muse among the scenes that shaped +his earliest thoughts. + +We strolled away from the university through the still lanes and squares +to the Calle Mayor, the only thoroughfare of the town that yet retains +some vestige of traffic. It is a fine, long street bordered by stone +arcades, within which are the shops, and without which in the pleasant +afternoon are the rosy and contemplative shopkeepers. It would seem a +pity to disturb their dreamy repose by offering to trade; and in justice +to Castilian taste and feeling I must say that nobody does it. Halfway +down the street a side alley runs to the right, called Calle de +Cervantes, and into this we turned to find the birthplace of the +romancer. On one side was a line of squalid, quaint, gabled houses, on +the other a long garden wall. We walked under the shadow of the latter +and stared at the house-fronts, looking for an inscription we had heard +of. We saw in sunny doorways mothers oiling into obedience the stiff +horse-tail hair of their daughters. By the grated windows we caught +glimpses of the black eyes and nut-brown cheeks of maidens at their +needles. But we saw nothing to show which of these mansions had been +honored by tradition as the residence of Roderick Cervantes. + +A brisk and practical-looking man went past us. + +I asked him where was the house of the poet. He smiled in a superior +sort of way, and pointed to the wall above my head: "There is no such +house. Some people think it once stood here, and they have placed that +stone in the garden-wall to mark the spot. I believe what I see. It is +all child's play anyhow, whether true or false. There is better work to +be done now than to honor Cervantes. He fought for a bigot king, and +died in a monk's hood." + +"You think lightly of a glory of Castile." + +"If we could forget all the glories of Castile it would be better for +us." + +"Puede ser," I assented. "Many thanks. May your grace go with God!" + +"Health and fraternity!" he answered, and moved away with a step full of +energy and dissent. He entered a door under an inscription, "Federal +Republican Club." + +Go your ways, I thought, radical brother. You are not so courteous nor +so learned as the rector. But this Peninsula has need of men like you. +The ages of belief have done their work for good and ill. Let us have +some years of the spirit that denies, and asks for proofs. The power of +the monk is broken, but the work is not yet done. The convents have been +turned into barracks, which is no improvement. The ringing of spurs in +the streets of Alcala is no better than the rustling of the sandalled +friars. If this Republican party of yours cannot do something to free +Spain from the triple curse of crown, crozier, and sabre, then Spain is +in doleful case. They are at last divided, and the first two have been +sorely weakened in detail. The last should be the easiest work. + +The scorn of my radical friend did not prevent my copying the modest +tablet on the wall:-- + +"Here was born Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra, author of Don Quixote. By +his fame and his genius he belongs to the civilized world; by his cradle +to Alcala de Henares." + +There is no doubt of the truth of the latter part of this inscription. +Eight Spanish towns have claimed to have given birth to Cervantes, thus +beating the blind Scian by one town; every one that can show on its +church records the baptism of a child so called has made its claim. Yet +Alcala, who spells his name wrong, calling him Carvantes, is certainly +in the right, as the names of his father, mother, brothers, and sisters +are also given in its records, and all doubt is now removed from the +matter by the discovery of Cervantes's manuscript statement of his +captivity in Algiers and his petition for employment in America, in both +of which he styles himself "Natural de Alcala de Henares." + +Having examined the evidence, we considered ourselves justly entitled to +all the usual emotions in visiting the church of the parish, Santa Maria +la Mayor. It was evening, and from a dozen belfries in the neighborhood +came the soft dreamy chime of silver-throated bells. In the little +square in front of the church a few families sat in silence on the +massive stone benches. A few beggars hurried by, too intent upon getting +home to supper to beg. A rural and a twilight repose lay on everything. +Only in the air, rosy with the level light, flew out and greeted each +other those musical voices of the bells rich with the memories of all +the days of Alcala. The church was not open, but we followed a sacristan +in, and he seemed too feeble-minded to forbid. It is a pretty church, +not large nor imposing, with a look of cosy comfort about it. Through +the darkness the high altar loomed before us, dimly lighted by a few +candles where the sacristans were setting up the properties for the +grand mass of the morrow,--Our Lady of the Snows. There was much talk +and hot discussion as to the placing of the boards and the draperies, +and the image of Our Lady seemed unmoved by words unsuited to her +presence. We know that every vibration of air makes its own impression +on the world of matter. So that the curses of the sacristans at their +work, the prayers of penitents at the altar, the wailing of breaking +hearts bowed on the pavement through many years, are all recorded +mysteriously, in these rocky walls. This church is the illegible history +of the parish. But of all its ringing of bells, and swinging of censers, +and droning of psalms, and putting on and off of goodly raiment, the +only show that consecrates it for the world's pilgrimage is that humble +procession that came on the 9th day of October, in the year of Grace +1547, to baptize Roderick Cervantes's youngest child. There could not be +an humbler christening. Juan Pardo--John Gray--was the sponsor, and the +witnesses were "Baltazar Vazquez, the sacristan, and I who baptized him +and signed with my name," says Mr. Bachelor Serrano, who never dreamed +he was stumbling into fame when he touched that pink face with the holy +water and called the child Miguel. It is my profound conviction that +Juan Pardo brought the baby himself to the church and took it home +again, screaming wrathfully; Neighbor' Pardo feeling a little sheepish +and mentally resolving never to do another good-natured action as long +as he lived. + +As for the neophyte, he could not be blamed for screaming and kicking +against the new existence he was entering, if the instinct of genius +gave him any hint of it. Between the font of St. Mary's and the bier at +St. Ildefonso's there was scarcely an hour of joy waiting him in his +long life, except that which comes from noble and earnest work. + +His youth was passed in the shabby privation of a poor gentleman's +house; his early talents attracted the attention of my Lord Aquaviva, +the papal legate, who took him back to Rome in his service; but the +high-spirited youth soon left the inglorious ease of the cardinal's +house to enlist as a private soldier in the sea-war against the Turk. He +fought bravely at Lepanto, where he was three times wounded and his left +hand crippled. Going home for promotion, loaded with praise and kind +letters from the generous bastard, Don Juan of Austria, the true son of +the Emperor Charles and pretty Barbara Blumberg, he was captured with +his brother by the Moors, and passed five miserable years in slavery, +never for one instant submitting to his lot, but wearying his hostile +fate with constant struggles. He headed a dozen attempts at flight or +insurrection, and yet his thrifty owners would not kill him. They +thought a man who bore letters from a prince, and who continued cock of +his walk through years of servitude, would one day bring a round ransom. +At last the tardy day of his redemption came, but not from the +cold-hearted tyrant he had so nobly served. The matter was presented to +him by Cervantes's comrades, but he would do nothing. So that Don +Roderick sold his estate and his sisters sacrificed their dowry to buy +the freedom of the captive brothers. + +They came back to Spain still young enough to be fond of glory, and +simple-hearted enough to believe in the justice of the great. They +immediately joined the army and served in the war with Portugal. The +elder brother made his way and got some little promotion, but Miguel got +married and discharged, and wrote verses and plays, and took a small +office in Seville, and moved with the Court to Valladolid; and kept his +accounts badly, and was too honest to steal, and so got into jail, and +grew every year poorer and wittier and better; he was a public +amanuensis, a business agent, a sub-tax-gatherer,--anything to keep his +lean larder garnished with scant ammunition against the wolf hunger. In +these few lines you have the pitiful story of the life of the greatest +of Spaniards, up to his return to Madrid in 1606, when he was nearly +sixty years old. + +From this point his history becomes clearer and more connected up to the +time of his death. He lived in the new-built suburb, erected on the site +of the gardens of the Duke of Lerma, first minister and favorite of +Philip III. It was a quarter much affected by artists and men of +letters, and equally so by ecclesiastics. The names of the streets +indicate the traditions of piety and art that still hallow the +neighborhood. Jesus Street leads you into the street of Lope de Vega. +Quevedo and Saint Augustine run side by side. In the same neighborhood +are the streets called Cervantes, Saint Mary, and Saint Joseph, and just +round the corner are the Magdalen and the Love-of-God. The actors and +artists of that day were pious and devout madcaps. They did not abound +in morality, but they had of religion enough and to spare. Many of them +were members of religious orders, and it is this fact which has procured +us such accurate records of their history. All the events in the daily +life of the religious establishments were carefully recorded, and the +manuscript archives of the convents and brotherhoods of that period are +rich in materials for the biographer. + +There was a special reason for the sudden rise of religious brotherhoods +among the laity. The great schism of England had been fully completed +under Elizabeth. The devout heart of Spain was bursting under this +wrong, and they could think of no way to avenge it. They would fain have +roasted the whole heretical island, but the memory of the Armada was +fresh in men's minds, and the great Philip was dead. There were not +enough heretics in Spain to make it worth while to waste time in hunting +them. Philip could say as Narvaez, on his death-bed, said to his +confessor who urged him to forgive his enemies, "Bless your heart, I +have none. I have killed them all." To ease their pious hearts, they +formed confraternities all over Spain, for the worship of the Host. They +called themselves "Unworthy Slaves of the Most Holy Sacrament." These +grew at once very popular in all classes. Artisans rushed in, and wasted +half their working days in processions and meetings. The severe Suarez +de Figueroa speaks savagely of the crowd of Narcissuses and petits +maitres (a word which is delicious in its Spanish dress of petimetres) +who entered the congregations simply to flutter about the processions in +brave raiment, to be admired of the multitude. But there were other more +serious members,--the politicians who joined to stand well with the +bigot court, and the devout believers who found comfort and edification +in worship. Of this latter class was Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra, who +joined the brotherhood in the street of the Olivar in 1609. He was now +sixty-two years old, and somewhat infirm,--a time, as he said, when a +man's salvation is no joke. From this period to the day of his death he +seemed to be laboring, after the fashion of the age, to fortify his +standing in the other world. He adopted the habit of the Franciscans in +Alcala in 1613, and formally professed in the Third Order in 1616, three +weeks before his death. + +There are those who find the mirth and fun of his later works so +inconsistent with these ascetic professions, that they have been led to +believe Cervantes a bit of a hypocrite. But we cannot agree with such. +Literature was at that time a diversion of the great, and the chief aim +of the writer was to amuse. The best opinion of scholars now is that +Rabelais, whose genius illustrated the preceding century, was a man of +serious and severe life, whose gaulish crudeness of style and brilliant +wit have been the cause of all the fables that distort his personal +history. + +No one can read attentively even the Quixote without seeing how powerful +an influence was exerted by his religion even upon the noble and kindly +soul of Cervantes. He was a blind bigot and a devoted royalist, like all +the rest. The mean neglect of the Court never caused his stanch loyalty +to swerve. The expulsion of the Moors, the crowning crime and madness of +the reign of Philip III., found in him a hearty advocate and defender. +_Non facit monachum cucullus,--_it was not his hood and girdle that made +him a monk; he was thoroughly saturated with their spirit before he put +them on. But he was the noblest courtier and the kindliest bigot that +ever flattered or persecuted. + +In 1610, the Count of Lemos, who had in his grand and distant way +patronized the poet, was appointed Viceroy of Naples, and took with him +to his kingdom a brilliant following of Spanish wits and scholars. He +refused the petition of the greatest of them all, however, and to soften +the blow gave him a small pension, which he continued during the rest of +Cervantes's life. It was a mere pittance, a bone thrown to an old hound, +but he took it and gnawed it with a gratitude more generous than the +gift. From this time forth all his works were dedicated to the Lord of +Lemos, and they form a garland more brilliant and enduring than the +crown of the Spains. Only kind words to disguised fairies have ever been +so munificently repaid, as this young noble's pension to the old genius. + +It certainly eased somewhat his declining years. Relieving him from the +necessity of earning his daily crust, it gave him leisure to complete +and bring out in rapid succession the works which have made him +immortal. He had published the first part of Don Quixote in the midst of +his hungry poverty at Valladolid in 1605. He was then fifty-eight, and +all his works that survive are posterior to that date. He built his +monument from the ground up, in his old age. The Persiles and +Sigis-munda, the Exemplary Novels, and that most masterly and perfect +work, the Second Part of Quixote, were written by the flickering glimmer +of a life burnt out. + +It would be incorrect to infer that the scanty dole of his patron +sustained him in comfort. Nothing more clearly proves his straitened +circumstances than his frequent change of lodgings. Old men do not move +for the love of variety. We have traced him through six streets in the +last four years of his life. But a touching fact is that they are all in +the same quarter. It is understood that his natural daughter and only +child, Isabel de Saavedra, entered the Convent of the Trinitarian nuns +in the street of Cantarranas--Singing Frogs--at some date unknown. All +the shifting and changing which Cervantes made in these embarrassed +years are within a small half-circle, whose centre is his grave and the +cell of his child. He fluttered about that little convent like a gaunt +old eagle about the cage that guards his callow young. + +Like Albert Duerer, like Raphael and Van Dyck, he painted his own +portrait at this time with a force and vigor of touch which leaves +little to the imagination. As few people ever read the Exemplary +Novels,--more is the pity,--I will translate this passage from the +Prologue:-- + +"He whom you see there with the aquiline face, chestnut hair, a smooth +and open brow, merry eyes, a nose curved but well proportioned, a beard +of silver which twenty years ago was of gold, long mustaches, a small +mouth, not too full of teeth, seeing he has but six, and these in bad +condition, a form of middle height, a lively color, rather fair than +brown, somewhat round-shouldered and not too light on his feet; this is +the face of the author of Galatea and of Don Quixote de la Mancha, of +him who made the Voyage to Parnassus, and other works which are straying +about without the name of the owner: he is commonly called Miguel de +Cervantes Saavedra." + +There were, after all, compensations in this evening of life. As long as +his dropsy would let him, he climbed the hilly street of the Olivar to +say his prayers in the little oratory. He passed many a cheerful hour of +gossip with Mother Francisca Romero, the independent superior of the +Trinitarian Convent, until the time when the Supreme Council, jealous of +the freedom of the good lady's life, walled up the door which led from +her house to her convent and cut her off from her nuns. He sometimes +dropped into the studios of Carducho and Caxes, and one of them made a +sketch of him one fortunate day. He was friends with many of the +easy-going Bohemians who swarmed in the quarter,--Cristobal de Mesa, +Quevedo, and Mendoza, whose writings, Don Miguel says, are distinguished +by the absence of all that would bring a "blush to the cheek of a young +person,"-- + +"Por graves, puros, castos y excelentes." + +In the same street where Cervantes lived and died, the great Lope de +Vega passed his edifying old age. This phenomenon of incredible +fecundity is one of the mysteries of that time. Few men of letters have +ever won so marvellous a success in their own lives, few have been so +little read after death. The inscription on Lope's house records that he +is the author of two thousand comedies and twenty-one million of verses. +Making all possible deductions for Spanish exaggeration, it must still +be admitted that his activity and fertility of genius were prodigious. +In those days a play was rarely acted more than two or three times, and +he wrote nearly all that were produced in Spain. He had driven all +competitors from the scene. Cervantes, when he published his collection +of plays, admitted the impossibility of getting a hearing in the theatre +while this "monster of nature" existed. There was a courteous +acquaintance between the two great poets. They sometimes wrote sonnets +to each other, and often met in the same oratories. But a grand seigneur +like Frey Lope could not afford to be intimate with a shabby genius like +brother Miguel. In his inmost heart he thought Don Quixote rather low, +and wondered what people could see in it. Cervantes, recognizing the +great gifts of De Vega, and, generously giving him his full meed of +praise, saw with clearer insight than any man of his time that this +deluge of prodigal and facile genius would desolate rather than fructify +the drama of Spain. What a contrast in character and destiny between our +dilapidated poet and his brilliant neighbor across the way! The one +rich, magnificent, the poet of princes and a prince among poets, the +"Phoenix of Spanish Genius," in whose ashes there is no flame of +resurrection; the other, hounded through life by unmerciful disaster, +and using the brief respite of age to achieve an enduring renown; the +one, with his twenty millions of verses, has a great name in the history +of literature; but the other, with his volume you can carry in your +pocket, has caused the world to call the Castilian tongue the language +of Cervantes. We will not decide which lot is the more enviable. But it +seems a poet must choose. We have the high authority of Sancho for +saying,-- + + "Para dar y tener + Seso ha menester." + + He is a bright boy who can eat his cake and have it. + +In some incidents of the closing scenes of these memorable lives there +is a curious parallelism. Lope de Vega and Cervantes lived and died in +the same street, now called the Calle de Cervantes, and were buried in +the same convent of the street now called Calle de Lope de Vega. In this +convent each had placed a beloved daughter, the fruit of an early and +unlawful passion. Isabel de Saavedra, the child of sin and poverty, was +so ignorant she could not sign her name; while Lope's daughter, the +lovely and gifted Marcela de Carpio, was rich in the genius of her +father and the beauty of her mother, the high-born Maria de Lujan. +Cervantes's child glided from obscurity to oblivion no one knew when, +and the name she assumed with her spiritual vows is lost to tradition. +But the mystic espousals of the sister Marcela de San Felix to the +eldest son of God--the audacious phrase is of the father and priest Frey +Lope--were celebrated with princely pomp and luxury; grandees of Spain +were her sponsors; the streets were invaded with carriages from the +palace, the verses of the dramatist were sung in the service by the +Court tenor Florian, called the "Canary of Heaven;" and the event +celebrated in endless rhymes by the genteel poets of the period. + +Rarely has a lovelier sacrifice been offered on the altar of +superstition. The father, who had been married twice before he entered +the priesthood, and who had seen the folly of errant loves without +number, twitters in the most innocent way about the beauty and the charm +of his child, without one thought of the crime of quenching in the gloom +of the cloister the light of that rich young life. After the lapse of +more than two centuries we know better than he what the world lost by +that lifelong imprisonment. The Marquis of Mo-lins, director of the +Spanish Academy, was shown by the ladies of the convent in this year of +1870 a volume of manuscript poems from the hand of Sor Marcela, which +prove her to have been one of the most vigorous and original poets of +the time. They are chiefly mystical and ecstatic, and full of the +refined and spiritual voluptuousness of a devout young heart whose +pulsations had never learned to beat for earthly objects. M. de Molins +is preparing a volume of these manuscripts; but I am glad to present one +of the seguidillas here, as an illustration of the tender and ardent +fantasies of virginal passion this Christian Sappho embroidered upon the +theme of her wasted prayers:-- + + Let them say to my Lover + That here I lie! + The thing of his pleasure, + His slave am I. + + Say that I seek him + Only for love, + And welcome are tortures + My passion to prove. + + Love giving gifts + Is suspicious and cold; + I have _all,_ my Beloved, + When thee I hold. + + Hope and devotion + The good may gain, + I am but worthy + Of passion and pain. + + So noble a Lord + None serves in vain,-- + For the pay of my love + Is my love's sweet pain. + + I love thee, to love thee, + No more I desire, + By faith is nourished + My love's strong fire. + + I kiss thy hands + When I feel their blows, + In the place of caresses + Thou givest me woes. + + But in thy chastising + Is joy and peace, + O Master and Love, + Let thy blows not cease! + + Thy beauty, Beloved, + With scorn is rife! + But I know that thou lovest me, + Better than life. + + And because thou lovest me, + Lover of mine, + Death can but make me + Utterly thine! + + I die with longing + Thy face to see; + Ah! sweet is the anguish + Of death to me! + +This is a long digression, but it will be forgiven by those who feel how +much of beautiful and pathetic there is in the memory of this mute +nightingale dying with her passionate music all unheard in the silence +and shadows. It is to me the most purely poetic association that clings +about the grave of Cervantes. + +This vein of mysticism in religion has been made popular by the recent +canonization of Saint Theresa, the ecstatic nun of Avila. In the +ceremonies that celebrated this event there were three prizes awarded +for odes to the new saint. Lope de Vega was chairman of the committee of +award, and Cervantes was one of the competitors. The prizes it must be +admitted were very tempting: first, a silver pitcher; second, eight +yards of camlet; and third, a pair of silk stockings. We hope +Cervantes's poem was not the best. We would rather see him carry home +the stuff for a new cloak and pourpoint, or even those very attractive +silk stockings for his shrunk shank, than that silver pitcher which he +was too Castilian ever to turn to any sensible use. The poems are +published in a compendium of the time, without indicating the successful +ones; and that of Cervantes contained these lines, which would seem +hazardous in this colder age, but which then were greatly admired:-- + + "Breaking all bolts and bars, + Comes the Divine One, sailing from the stars, + Full in thy sight to dwell: + And those who seek him, shortening the road, + Come to thy blest abode, + And find him in thy heart or in thy cell." + +The anti-climax is the poet's, and not mine. + +He knew he was nearing his end, but worked desperately to retrieve the +lost years of his youth, and leave the world some testimony of his +powers. He was able to finish and publish the Second Part of Quixote, +and to give the last touches of the file to his favorite work, the long +pondered and cherished Persiles. This, he assures Count Lemos, will be +either the best or the worst work ever produced by mortal man, and he +quickly adds that it will not be the worst. The terrible disease gains +upon him, laying its cold hand on his heart. He feels the pulsations +growing slower, but bates no jot of his cheerful philosophy. "With one +foot in the stirrup," he writes a last farewell of noble gratitude to +the viceroy of Naples. He makes his will, commanding that his body be +laid in the Convent of the Trinitarians. He had fixed his departure for +Sunday, the 17th of April, but waited six days for Shakespeare, and the +two greatest souls of that age went into the unknown together, on the +23d of April, 1616. + +The burial of Cervantes was as humble as his christening. His bier was +borne on the shoulders of four brethren of his order. The upper half of +the coffin-lid was open and displayed the sharpened features to the few +who cared to see them: his right hand grasped a crucifix with the grip +of a soldier. Behind the grating was a sobbing nun whose name in the +world was Isabel de Saavedra. But there was no scenic effort or display, +such as a few years later in that same spot witnessed the laying away of +the mortal part of Vega-Carpio. This is the last of Cervantes upon +earth. He had fought a good fight. A long life had been devoted to his +country's service. In his youth he had poured out his blood, and dragged +the chains of captivity. In his age he had accomplished a work which +folds in with Spanish fame the orb of the world. But he was laid in his +grave like a pauper, and the spot where he lay was quickly forgotten. At +that very hour a vast multitude was assisting at what the polished +academician calls a "more solemn ceremony," the bearing of the Virgin of +the Atocha to the Convent of San Domingo el Real, to see if peradventure +pleased by the airing, she would send rain to the parching fields. + +The world speedily did justice to his name. Even before his death it had +begun. The gentlemen of the French embassy who came to Madrid in 1615 to +arrange the royal marriages asked the chaplain of the Archbishop of +Toledo in his first visit many questions of Miguel Cervantes. The +chaplain happened to be a friend of the poet, and so replied, "I know +him. He is old, a soldier, a gentleman, and poor." At which they +wondered greatly. But after a while, when the whole civilized world had +trans-lated and knew the Quixote by heart, the Spaniards began to be +proud of the genius they had neglected and despised. They quote with a +certain fatuity the eulogy of Montesquieu, who says it is the only book +they have; "a proposition" which Navarrete considers "inexact," and we +agree with Navarrete. He has written a good book himself. The Spaniards +have very frankly accepted the judgment of the world, and although they +do not read Cervantes much, they admire him greatly, and talk about him +more than is amusing. The Spanish Academy has set up a pretty mural +tablet on the facade of the convent which shelters the tired bones of +the unlucky immortal, enjoying now their first and only repose. In the +Plaza of the Cortes a fine bronze statue stands facing the Prado, +catching on his chiselled curls and forehead the first rays of morning +that leap over the hill of the Retiro. It is a well-poised, energetic, +chivalrous figure, and Mr. Ger-mond de Lavigne has criticised it as +having more of the sabreur than the savant. The objection does not seem +well founded. It is not pleasant for the world to be continually +reminded of its meannesses. We do not want to see Cervantes's days of +poverty and struggle eternized in statues. We know that he always looked +back with fondness on his campaigning days, and even in his decrepit age +he called himself a soldier. If there were any period in that troubled +history that could be called happy, surely it was the time when he had +youth and valor and hope as the companions of his toil. It would have +been a precious consolation to his cheerless age to dream that he could +stand in bronze, as we hope he may stand for centuries, in the +unchanging bloom of manhood, with the cloak and sword of a gentleman and +soldier, bathing his Olympian brow forever in the light of all the +mornings, and gazing, at evening, at the rosy reflex flushing the +east,--the memory of the day and the promise of the dawn. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Castilian Days, by John Hay + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CASTILIAN DAYS *** + +This file should be named cdays10.txt or cdays10.zip +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, cdays11.txt +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, cdays10a.txt + +Produced by Eric Eldred + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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