summaryrefslogtreecommitdiff
path: root/74151-h/74151-h.htm
blob: d9861cc7d166454034082552f78117c86faa19ab (plain) 
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
92
93
94
95
96
97
98
99
100
101
102
103
104
105
106
107
108
109
110
111
112
113
114
115
116
117
118
119
120
121
122
123
124
125
126
127
128
129
130
131
132
133
134
135
136
137
138
139
140
141
142
143
144
145
146
147
148
149
150
151
152
153
154
155
156
157
158
159
160
161
162
163
164
165
166
167
168
169
170
171
172
173
174
175
176
177
178
179
180
181
182
183
184
185
186
187
188
189
190
191
192
193
194
195
196
197
198
199
200
201
202
203
204
205
206
207
208
209
210
211
212
213
214
215
216
217
218
219
220
221
222
223
224
225
226
227
228
229
230
231
232
233
234
235
236
237
238
239
240
241
242
243
244
245
246
247
248
249
250
251
252
253
254
255
256
257
258
259
260
261
262
263
264
265
266
267
268
269
270
271
272
273
274
275
276
277
278
279
280
281
282
283
284
285
286
287
288
289
290
291
292
293
294
295
296
297
298
299
300
301
302
303
304
305
306
307
308
309
310
311
312
313
314
315
316
317
318
319
320
321
322
323
324
325
326
327
328
329
330
331
332
333
334
335
336
337
338
339
340
341
342
343
344
345
346
347
348
349
350
351
352
353
354
355
356
357
358
359
360
361
362
363
364
365
366
367
368
369
370
371
372
373
374
375
376
377
378
379
380
381
382
383
384
385
386
387
388
389
390
391
392
393
394
395
396
397
398
399
400
401
402
403
404
405
406
407
408
409
410
411
412
413
414
415
416
417
418
419
420
421
422
423
424
425
426
427
428
429
430
431
432
433
434
435
436
437
438
439
440
441
442
443
444
445
446
447
448
449
450
451
452
453
454
455
456
457
458
459
460
461
462
463
464
465
466
467
468
469
470
471
472
473
474
475
476
477
478
479
480
481
482
483
484
485
486
487
488
489
490
491
492
493
494
495
496
497
498
499
500
501
502
503
504
505
506
507
508
509
510
511
512
513
514
515
516
517
518
519
520
521
522
523
524
525
526
527
528
529
530
531
532
533
534
535
536
537
538
539
540
541
542
543
544
545
546
547
548
549
550
551
552
553
554
555
556
557
558
559
560
561
562
563
564
565
566
567
568
569
570
571
572
573
574
575
576
577
578
579
580
581
582
583
584
585
586
587
588
589
590
591
592
593
594
595
596
597
598
599
600
601
602
603
604
605
606
607
608
609
610
611
612
613
614
615
616
617
618
619
620
621
622
623
624
625
626
627
628
629
630
631
632
633
634
635
636
637
638
639
640
641
642
643
644
645
646
647
648
649
650
651
652
653
654
655
656
657
658
659
660
661
662
663
664
665
666
667
668
669
670
671
672
673
674
675
676
677
678
679
680
681
682
683
684
685
686
687
688
689
690
691
692
693
694
695
696
697
698
699
700
701
702
703
704
705
706
707
708
709
710
711
712
713
714
715
716
717
718
719
720
721
722
723
724
725
726
727
728
729
730
731
732
733
734
735
736
737
738
739
740
741
742
743
744
745
746
747
748
749
750
751
752
753
754
755
756
757
758
759
760
761
762
763
764
765
766
767
768
769
770
771
772
773
774
775
776
777
778
779
780
781
782
783
784
785
786
787
788
789
790
791
792
793
794
795
796
797
798
799
800
801
802
803
804
805
806
807
808
809
810
811
812
813
814
815
816
817
818
819
820
821
822
823
824
825
826
827
828
829
830
831
832
833
834
835
836
837
838
839
840
841
842
843
844
845
846
847
848
849
850
851
852
853
854
855
856
857
858
859
860
861
862
863
864
865
866
867
868
869
870
871
872
873
874
875
876
877
878
879
880
881
882
883
884
885
886
887
888
889
890
891
892
893
894
895
896
897
898
899
900
901
902
903
904
905
906
907
908
909
910
911
912
913
914
915
916
917
918
919
920
921
922
923
924
925
926
927
928
929
930
931
932
933
934
935
936
937
938
939
940
941
942
943
944
945
946
947
948
949
950
951
952
953
954
955
956
957
958
959
960
961
962
963
964
965
966
967
968
969
970
971
972
973
974
975
976
977
978
979
980
981
982
983
984
985
986
987
988
989
990
991
992
993
994
995
996
997
998
999
1000
1001
1002
1003
1004
1005
1006
1007
1008
1009
1010
1011
1012
1013
1014
1015
1016
1017
1018
1019
1020
1021
1022
1023
1024
1025
1026
1027
1028
1029
1030
1031
1032
1033
1034
1035
1036
1037
1038
1039
1040
1041
1042
1043
1044
1045
1046
1047
1048
1049
1050
1051
1052
1053
1054
1055
1056
1057
1058
1059
1060
1061
1062
1063
1064
1065
1066
1067
1068
1069
1070
1071
1072
1073
1074
1075
1076
1077
1078
1079
1080
1081
1082
1083
1084
1085
1086
1087
1088
1089
1090
1091
1092
1093
1094
1095
1096
1097
1098
1099
1100
1101
1102
1103
1104
1105
1106
1107
1108
1109
1110
1111
1112
1113
1114
1115
1116
1117
1118
1119
1120
1121
1122
1123
1124
1125
1126
1127
1128
1129
1130
1131
1132
1133
1134
1135
1136
1137
1138
1139
1140
1141
1142
1143
1144
1145
1146
1147
1148
1149
1150
1151
1152
1153
1154
1155
1156
1157
1158
1159
1160
1161
1162
1163
1164
1165
1166
1167
1168
1169
1170
1171
1172
1173
1174
1175
1176
1177
1178
1179
1180
1181
1182
1183
1184
1185
1186
1187
1188
1189
1190
1191
1192
1193
1194
1195
1196
1197
1198
1199
1200
1201
1202
1203
1204
1205
1206
1207
1208
1209
1210
1211
1212
1213
1214
1215
1216
1217
1218
1219
1220
1221
1222
1223
1224
1225
1226
1227
1228
1229
1230
1231
1232
1233
1234
1235
1236
1237
1238
1239
1240
1241
1242
1243
1244
1245
1246
1247
1248
1249
1250
1251
1252
1253
1254
1255
1256
1257
1258
1259
1260
1261
1262
1263
1264
1265
1266
1267
1268
1269
1270
1271
1272
1273
1274
1275
1276
1277
1278
1279
1280
1281
1282
1283
1284
1285
1286
1287
1288
1289
1290
1291
1292
1293
1294
1295
1296
1297
1298
1299
1300
1301
1302
1303
1304
1305
1306
1307
1308
1309
1310
1311
1312
1313
1314
1315
1316
1317
1318
1319
1320
1321
1322
1323
1324
1325
1326
1327
1328
1329
1330
1331
1332
1333
1334
1335
1336
1337
1338
1339
1340
1341
1342
1343
1344
1345
1346
1347
1348
1349
1350
1351
1352
1353
1354
1355
1356
1357
1358
1359
1360
1361
1362
1363
1364
1365
1366
1367
1368
1369
1370
1371
1372
1373
1374
1375
1376
1377
1378
1379
1380
1381
1382
1383
1384
1385
1386
1387
1388
1389
1390
1391
1392
1393
1394
1395
1396
1397
1398
1399
1400
1401
1402
1403
1404
1405
1406
1407
1408
1409
1410
1411
1412
1413
1414
1415
1416
1417
1418
1419
1420
1421
1422
1423
1424
1425
1426
1427
1428
1429
1430
1431
1432
1433
1434
1435
1436
1437
1438
1439
1440
1441
1442
1443
1444
1445
1446
1447
1448
1449
1450
1451
1452
1453
1454
1455
1456
1457
1458
1459
1460
1461
1462
1463
1464
1465
1466
1467
1468
1469
1470
1471
1472
1473
1474
1475
1476
1477
1478
1479
1480
1481
1482
1483
1484
1485
1486
1487
1488
1489
1490
1491
1492
1493
1494
1495
1496
1497
1498
1499
1500
1501
1502
1503
1504
1505
1506
1507
1508
1509
1510
1511
1512
1513
1514
1515
1516
1517
1518
1519
1520
1521
1522
1523
1524
1525
1526
1527
1528
1529
1530
1531
1532
1533
1534
1535
1536
1537
1538
1539
1540
1541
1542
1543
1544
1545
1546
1547
1548
1549
1550
1551
1552
1553
1554
1555
1556
1557
1558
1559
1560
1561
1562
1563
1564
1565
1566
1567
1568
1569
1570
1571
1572
1573
1574
1575
1576
1577
1578
1579
1580
1581
1582
1583
1584
1585
1586
1587
1588
1589
1590
1591
1592
1593
1594
1595
1596
1597
1598
1599
1600
1601
1602
1603
1604
1605
1606
1607
1608
1609
1610
1611
1612
1613
1614
1615
1616
1617
1618
1619
1620
1621
1622
1623
1624
1625
1626
1627
1628
1629
1630
1631
1632
1633
1634
1635
1636
1637
1638
1639
1640
1641
1642
1643
1644
1645
1646
1647
1648
1649
1650
1651
1652
1653
1654
1655
1656
1657
1658
1659
1660
1661
1662
1663
1664
1665
1666
1667
1668
1669
1670
1671
1672
1673
1674
1675
1676
1677
1678
1679
1680
1681
1682
1683
1684
1685
1686
1687
1688
1689
1690
1691
1692
1693
1694
1695
1696
1697
1698
1699
1700
1701
1702
1703
1704
1705
1706
1707
1708
1709
1710
1711
1712
1713
1714
1715
1716
1717
1718
1719
1720
1721
1722
1723
1724
1725
1726
1727
1728
1729
1730
1731
1732
1733
1734
1735
1736
1737
1738
1739
1740
1741
1742
1743
1744
1745
1746
1747
1748
1749
1750
1751
1752
1753
1754
1755
1756
1757
1758
1759
1760
1761
1762
1763
1764
1765
1766
1767
1768
1769
1770
1771
1772
1773
1774
1775
1776
1777
1778
1779
1780
1781
1782
1783
1784
1785
1786
1787
1788
1789
1790
1791
1792
1793
1794
1795
1796
1797
1798
1799
1800
1801
1802
1803
1804
1805
1806
1807
1808
1809
1810
1811
1812
1813
1814
1815
1816
1817
1818
1819
1820
1821
1822
1823
1824
1825
1826
1827
1828
1829
1830
1831
1832
1833
1834
1835
1836
1837
1838
1839
1840
1841
1842
1843
1844
1845
1846
1847
1848
1849
1850
1851
1852
1853
1854
1855
1856
1857
1858
1859
1860
1861
1862
1863
1864
1865
1866
1867
1868
1869
1870
1871
1872
1873
1874
1875
1876
1877
1878
1879
1880
1881
1882
1883
1884
1885
1886
1887
1888
1889
1890
1891
1892
1893
1894
1895
1896
1897
1898
1899
1900
1901
1902
1903
1904
1905
1906
1907
1908
1909
1910
1911
1912
1913
1914
1915
1916
1917
1918
1919
1920
1921
1922
1923
1924
1925
1926
1927
1928
1929
1930
1931
1932
1933
1934
1935
1936
1937
1938
1939
1940
1941
1942
1943
1944
1945
1946
1947
1948
1949
1950
1951
1952
1953
1954
1955
1956
1957
1958
1959
1960
1961
1962
1963
1964
1965
1966
1967
1968
1969
1970
1971
1972
1973
1974
1975
1976
1977
1978
1979
1980
1981
1982
1983
1984
1985
1986
1987
1988
1989
1990
1991
1992
1993
1994
1995
1996
1997
1998
1999
2000
2001
2002
2003
2004
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009
2010
2011
2012
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
2019
2020
2021
2022
2023
2024
2025
2026
2027
2028
2029
2030
2031
2032
2033
2034
2035
2036
2037
2038
2039
2040
2041
2042
2043
2044
2045
2046
2047
2048
2049
2050
2051
2052
2053
2054
2055
2056
2057
2058
2059
2060
2061
2062
2063
2064
2065
2066
2067
2068
2069
2070
2071
2072
2073
2074
2075
2076
2077
2078
2079
2080
2081
2082
2083
2084
2085
2086
2087
2088
2089
2090
2091
2092
2093
2094
2095
2096
2097
2098
2099
2100
2101
2102
2103
2104
2105
2106
2107
2108
2109
2110
2111
2112
2113
2114
2115
2116
2117
2118
2119
2120
2121
2122
2123
2124
2125
2126
2127
2128
2129
2130
2131
2132
2133
2134
2135
2136
2137
2138
2139
2140
2141
2142
2143
2144
2145
2146
2147
2148
2149
2150
2151
2152
2153
2154
2155
2156
2157
2158
2159
2160
2161
2162
2163
2164
2165
2166
2167
2168
2169
2170
2171
2172
2173
2174
2175
2176
2177
2178
2179
2180
2181
2182
2183
2184
2185
2186
2187
2188
2189
2190
2191
2192
2193
2194
2195
2196
2197
2198
2199
2200
2201
2202
2203
2204
2205
2206
2207
2208
2209
2210
2211
2212
2213
2214
2215
2216
2217
2218
2219
2220
2221
2222
2223
2224
2225
2226
2227
2228
2229
2230
2231
2232
2233
2234
2235
2236
2237
2238
2239
2240
2241
2242
2243
2244
2245
2246
2247
2248
2249
2250
2251
2252
2253
2254
2255
2256
2257
2258
2259
2260
2261
2262
2263
2264
2265
2266
2267
2268
2269
2270
2271
2272
2273
2274
2275
2276
2277
2278
2279
2280
2281
2282
2283
2284
2285
2286
2287
2288
2289
2290
2291
2292
2293
2294
2295
2296
2297
2298
2299
2300
2301
2302
2303
2304
2305
2306
2307
2308
2309
2310
2311
2312
2313
2314
2315
2316
2317
2318
2319
2320
2321
2322
2323
2324
2325
2326
2327
2328
2329
2330
2331
2332
2333
2334
2335
2336
2337
2338
2339
2340
2341
2342
2343
2344
2345
2346
2347
2348
2349
2350
2351
2352
2353
2354
2355
2356
2357
2358
2359
2360
2361
2362
2363
2364
2365
2366
2367
2368
2369
2370
2371
2372
2373
2374
2375
2376
2377
2378
2379
2380
2381
2382
2383
2384
2385
2386
2387
2388
2389
2390
2391
2392
2393
2394
2395
2396
2397
2398
2399
2400
2401
2402
2403
2404
2405
2406
2407
2408
2409
2410
2411
2412
2413
2414
2415
2416
2417
2418
2419
2420
2421
2422
2423
2424
2425
2426
2427
2428
2429
2430
2431
2432
2433
2434
2435
2436
2437
2438
2439
2440
2441
2442
2443
2444
2445
2446
2447
2448
2449
2450
2451
2452
2453
2454
2455
2456
2457
2458
2459
2460
2461
2462
2463
2464
2465
2466
2467
2468
2469
2470
2471
2472
2473
2474
2475
2476
2477
2478
2479
2480
2481
2482
2483
2484
2485
2486
2487
2488
2489
2490
2491
2492
2493
2494
2495
2496
2497
2498
2499
2500
2501
2502
2503
2504
2505
2506
2507
2508
2509
2510
2511
2512
2513
2514
2515
2516
2517
2518
2519
2520
2521
2522
2523
2524
2525
2526
2527
2528
2529
2530
2531
2532
2533
2534
2535
2536
2537
2538
2539
2540
2541
2542
2543
2544
2545
2546
2547
2548
2549
2550
2551
2552
2553
2554
2555
2556
2557
2558
2559
2560
2561
2562
2563
2564
2565
2566
2567
2568
2569
2570
2571
2572
2573
2574
2575
2576
2577
2578
2579
2580
2581
2582
2583
2584
2585
2586
2587
2588
2589
2590
2591
2592
2593
2594
2595
2596
2597
2598
2599
2600
2601
2602
2603
2604
2605
2606
2607
2608
2609
2610
2611
2612
2613
2614
2615
2616
2617
2618
2619
2620
2621
2622
2623
2624
2625
2626
2627
2628
2629
2630
2631
2632
2633
2634
2635
2636
2637
2638
2639
2640
2641
2642
2643
2644
2645
2646
2647
2648
2649
2650
2651
2652
2653
2654
2655
2656
2657
2658
2659
2660
2661
2662
2663
2664
2665
2666
2667
2668
2669
2670
2671
2672
2673
2674
2675
2676
2677
2678
2679
2680
2681
2682
2683
2684
2685
2686
2687
2688
2689
2690
2691
2692
2693
2694
2695
2696
2697
2698
2699
2700
2701
2702
2703
2704
2705
2706
2707
2708
2709
2710
2711
2712
2713
2714
2715
2716
2717
2718
2719
2720
2721
2722
2723
2724
2725
2726
2727
2728
2729
2730
2731
2732
2733
2734
2735
2736
2737
2738
2739
2740
2741
2742
2743
2744
2745
2746
2747
2748
2749
2750
2751
2752
2753
2754
2755
2756
2757
2758
2759
2760
2761
2762
2763
2764
2765
2766
2767
2768
2769
2770
2771
2772
2773
2774
2775
2776
2777
2778
2779
2780
2781
2782
2783
2784
2785
2786
2787
2788
2789
2790
2791
2792
2793
2794
2795
2796
2797
2798
2799
2800
2801
2802
2803
2804
2805
2806
2807
2808
2809
2810
2811
2812
2813
2814
2815
2816
2817
2818
2819
2820
2821
2822
2823
2824
2825
2826
2827
2828
2829
2830
2831
2832
2833
2834
2835
2836
2837
2838
2839
2840
2841
2842
2843
2844
2845
2846
2847
2848
2849
2850
2851
2852
2853
2854
2855
2856
2857
2858
2859
2860
2861
2862
2863
2864
2865
2866
2867
2868
2869
2870
2871
2872
2873
2874
2875
2876
2877
2878
2879
2880
2881
2882
2883
2884
2885
2886
2887
2888
2889
2890
2891
2892
2893
2894
2895
2896
2897
2898
2899
2900
2901
2902
2903
2904
2905
2906
2907
2908
2909
2910
2911
2912
2913
2914
2915
2916
2917
2918
2919
2920
2921
2922
2923
2924
2925
2926
2927
2928
2929
2930
2931
2932
2933
2934
2935
2936
2937
2938
2939
2940
2941
2942
2943
2944
2945
2946
2947
2948
2949
2950
2951
2952
2953
2954
2955
2956
2957
2958
2959
2960
2961
2962
2963
2964
2965
2966
2967
2968
2969
2970
2971
2972
2973
2974
2975
2976
2977
2978
2979
2980
2981
2982
2983
2984
2985
2986
2987
2988
2989
2990
2991
2992
2993
2994
2995
2996
2997
2998
2999
3000
3001
3002
3003
3004
3005
3006
3007
3008
3009
3010
3011
3012
3013
3014
3015
3016
3017
3018
3019
3020
3021
3022
3023
3024
3025
3026
3027
3028
3029
3030
3031
3032
3033
3034
3035
3036
3037
3038
3039
3040
3041
3042
3043
3044
3045
3046
3047
3048
3049
3050
3051
3052
3053
3054
3055
3056
3057
3058
3059
3060
3061
3062
3063
3064
3065
3066
3067
3068
3069
3070
3071
3072
3073
3074
3075
3076
3077
3078
3079
3080
3081
3082
3083
3084
3085
3086
3087
3088
3089
3090
3091
3092
3093
3094
3095
3096
3097
3098
3099
3100
3101
3102
3103
3104
3105
3106
3107
3108
3109
3110
3111
3112
3113
3114
3115
3116
3117
3118
3119
3120
3121
3122
3123
3124
3125
3126
3127
3128
3129
3130
3131
3132
3133
3134
3135
3136
3137
3138
3139
3140
3141
3142
3143
3144
3145
3146
3147
3148
3149
3150
3151
3152
3153
3154
3155
3156
3157
3158
3159
3160
3161
3162
3163
3164
3165
3166
3167
3168
3169
3170
3171
3172
3173
3174
3175
3176
3177
3178
3179
3180
3181
3182
3183
3184
3185
3186
3187
3188
3189
3190
3191
3192
3193
3194
3195
3196
3197
3198
3199
3200
3201
3202
3203
3204
3205
3206
3207
3208
3209
3210
3211
3212
3213
3214
3215
3216
3217
3218
3219
3220
3221
3222
3223
3224
3225
3226
3227
3228
3229
3230
3231
3232
3233
3234
3235
3236
3237
3238
3239
3240
3241
3242
3243
3244
3245
3246
3247
3248
3249
3250
3251
3252
3253
3254
3255
3256
3257
3258
3259
3260
3261
3262
3263
3264
3265
3266
3267
3268
3269
3270
3271
3272
3273
3274
3275
3276
3277
3278
3279
3280
3281
3282
3283
3284
3285
3286
3287
3288
3289
3290
3291
3292
3293
3294
3295
3296
3297
3298
3299
3300
3301
3302
3303
3304
3305
3306
3307
3308
3309
3310
3311
3312
3313
3314
3315
3316
3317
3318
3319
3320
3321
3322
3323
3324
3325
3326
3327
3328
3329
3330
3331
3332
3333
3334
3335
3336
3337
3338
3339
3340
3341
3342
3343
3344
3345
3346
3347
3348
3349
3350
3351
3352
3353
3354
3355
3356
3357
3358
3359
3360
3361
3362
3363
3364
3365
3366
3367
3368
3369
3370
3371
3372
3373
3374
3375
3376
3377
3378
3379
3380
3381
3382
3383
3384
3385
3386
3387
3388
3389
3390
3391
3392
3393
3394
3395
3396
3397
3398
3399
3400
3401
3402
3403
3404
3405
3406
3407
3408
3409
3410
3411
3412
3413
3414
3415
3416
3417
3418
3419
3420
3421
3422
3423
3424
3425
3426
3427
3428
3429
3430
3431
3432
3433
3434
3435
3436
3437
3438
3439
3440
3441
3442
3443
3444
3445
3446
3447
3448
3449
3450
3451
3452
3453
3454
3455
3456
3457
3458
3459
3460
3461
3462
3463
3464
3465
3466
3467
3468
3469
3470
3471
3472
3473
3474
3475
3476
3477
3478
3479
3480
3481
3482
3483
3484
3485
3486
3487
3488
3489
3490
3491
3492
3493
3494
3495
3496
3497
3498
3499
3500
3501
3502
3503
3504
3505
3506
3507
3508
3509
3510
3511
3512
3513
3514
3515
3516
3517
3518
3519
3520
3521
3522
3523
3524
3525
3526
3527
3528
3529
3530
3531
3532
3533
3534
3535
3536
3537
3538
3539
3540
3541
3542
3543
3544
3545
3546
3547
3548
3549
3550
3551
3552
3553
3554
3555
3556
3557
3558
3559
3560
3561
3562
3563
3564
3565
3566
3567
3568
3569
3570
3571
3572
3573
3574
3575
3576
3577
3578
3579
3580
3581
3582
3583
3584
3585
3586
3587
3588
3589
3590
3591
3592
3593
3594
3595
3596
3597
3598
3599
3600
3601
3602
3603
3604
3605
3606
3607
3608
3609
3610
3611
3612
3613
3614
3615
3616
3617
3618
3619
3620
3621
3622
3623
3624
3625
3626
3627
3628
3629
3630
3631
3632
3633
3634
3635
3636
3637
3638
3639
3640
3641
3642
3643
3644
3645
3646
3647
3648
3649
3650
3651
3652
3653
3654
3655
3656
3657
3658
3659
3660
3661
3662
3663
3664
3665
3666
3667
3668
3669
3670
3671
3672
3673
3674
3675
3676
3677
3678
3679
3680
3681
3682
3683
3684
3685
3686
3687
3688
3689
3690
3691
3692
3693
3694
3695
3696
3697
3698
3699
3700
3701
3702
3703
3704
3705
3706
3707
3708
3709
3710
3711
3712
3713
3714
3715
3716
3717
3718
3719
3720
3721
3722
3723
3724
3725
3726
3727
3728
3729
3730
3731
3732
3733
3734
3735
3736
3737
3738
3739
3740
3741
3742
3743
3744
3745
3746
3747
3748
3749
3750
3751
3752
3753
3754
3755
3756
3757
3758
3759
3760
3761
3762
3763
3764
3765
3766
3767
3768
3769
3770
3771
3772
3773
3774
3775
3776
3777
3778
3779
3780
3781
3782
3783
3784
3785
3786
3787
3788
3789
3790
3791
3792
3793
3794
3795
3796
3797
3798
3799
3800
3801
3802
3803
3804
3805
3806
3807
3808
3809
3810
3811
3812
3813
3814
3815
3816
3817
3818
3819
3820
3821
3822
3823
3824
3825
3826
3827
3828
3829
3830
3831
3832
3833
3834
3835
3836
3837
3838
3839
3840
3841
3842
3843
3844
3845
3846
3847
3848
3849
3850
3851
3852
3853
3854
3855
3856
3857
3858
3859
3860
3861
3862
3863
3864
3865
3866
3867
3868
3869
3870
3871
3872
3873
3874
3875
3876
3877
3878
3879
3880
3881
3882
3883
3884
3885
3886
3887
3888
3889
3890
3891
3892
3893
3894
3895
3896
3897
3898
3899
3900
3901
3902
3903
3904
3905
3906
3907
3908
3909
3910
3911
3912
3913
3914
3915
3916
3917
3918
3919
3920
3921
3922
3923
3924
3925
3926
3927
3928
3929
3930
3931
3932
3933
3934
3935
3936
3937
3938
3939
3940
3941
3942
3943
3944
3945
3946
3947
3948
3949
3950
3951
3952
3953
3954
3955
3956
3957
3958
3959
3960
3961
3962
3963
3964
3965
3966
3967
3968
3969
3970
3971
3972
3973
3974
3975
3976
3977
3978
3979
3980
3981
3982
3983
3984
3985
3986
3987
3988
3989
3990
3991
3992
3993
3994
3995
3996
3997
3998
3999
4000
4001
4002
4003
4004
4005
4006
4007
4008
4009
4010
4011
4012
4013
4014
4015
4016
4017
4018
4019
4020
4021
4022
4023
4024
4025
4026
4027
4028
4029
4030
4031
4032
4033
4034
4035
4036
4037
4038
4039
4040
4041
4042
4043
4044
4045
4046
4047
4048
4049
4050
4051
4052
4053
4054
4055
4056
4057
4058
4059
4060
4061
4062
4063
4064
4065
4066
4067
4068
4069
4070
4071
4072
4073
4074
4075
4076
4077
4078
4079
4080
4081
4082
4083
4084
4085
4086
4087
4088
4089
4090
4091
4092
4093
4094
4095
4096
4097
4098
4099
4100
4101
4102
4103
4104
4105
4106
4107
4108
4109
4110
4111
4112
4113
4114
4115
4116
4117
4118
4119
4120
4121
4122
4123
4124
4125
4126
4127
4128
4129
4130
4131
4132
4133
4134
4135
4136
4137
4138
4139
4140
4141
4142
4143
4144
4145
4146
4147
4148
4149
4150
4151
4152
4153
4154
4155
4156
4157
4158
4159
4160
4161
4162
4163
4164
4165
4166
4167
4168
4169
4170
4171
4172
4173
4174
4175
4176
4177
4178
4179
4180
4181
4182
4183
4184
4185
4186
4187
4188
4189
4190
4191
4192
4193
4194
4195
4196
4197
4198
4199
4200
4201
4202
4203
4204
4205
4206
4207
4208
4209
4210
4211
4212
4213
4214
4215
4216
4217
4218
4219
4220
4221
4222
4223
4224
4225
4226
4227
4228
4229
4230
4231
4232
4233
4234
4235
4236
4237
4238
4239
4240
4241
4242
4243
4244
4245
4246
4247
4248
4249
4250
4251
4252
4253
4254
4255
4256
4257
4258
4259
4260
4261
4262
4263
4264
4265
4266
4267
4268
4269
4270
4271
4272
4273
4274
4275
4276
4277
4278
4279
4280
4281
4282
4283
4284
4285
4286
4287
4288
4289
4290
4291
4292
4293
4294
4295
4296
4297
4298
4299
4300
4301
4302
4303
4304
4305
4306
4307
4308
4309
4310
4311
4312
4313
4314
4315
4316
4317
4318
4319
4320
4321
4322
4323
4324
4325
4326
4327
4328
4329
4330
4331
4332
4333
4334
4335
4336
4337
4338
4339
4340
4341
4342
4343
4344
4345
4346
4347
4348
4349
4350
4351
4352
4353
4354
4355
4356
4357
4358
4359
4360
4361
4362
4363
4364
4365
4366
4367
4368
4369
4370
4371
4372
4373
4374
4375
4376
4377
4378
4379
4380
4381
4382
4383
4384
4385
4386
4387
4388
4389
4390
4391
4392
4393
4394
4395
4396
4397
4398
4399
4400
4401
4402
4403
4404
4405
4406
4407
4408
4409
4410
4411
4412
4413
4414
4415
4416
4417
4418
4419
4420
4421
4422
4423
4424
4425
4426
4427
4428
4429
4430
4431
4432
4433
4434
4435
4436
4437
4438
4439
4440
4441
4442
4443
4444
4445
4446
4447
4448
4449
4450
4451
4452
4453
4454
4455
4456
4457
4458
4459
4460
4461
4462
4463
4464
4465
4466
4467
4468
4469
4470
4471
4472
4473
4474
4475
4476
4477
4478
4479
4480
4481
4482
4483
4484
4485
4486
4487
4488
4489
4490
4491
4492
4493
4494
4495
4496
4497
4498
4499
4500
4501
4502
4503
4504
4505
4506
4507
4508
4509
4510
4511
4512
4513
4514
4515
4516
4517
4518
4519
4520
4521
4522
4523
4524
4525
4526
4527
4528
4529
4530
4531
4532
4533
4534
4535
4536
4537
4538
4539
4540
4541
4542
4543
4544
4545
4546
4547
4548
4549
4550
4551
4552
4553
4554
4555
4556
4557
4558
4559
4560
4561
4562
4563
4564
4565
4566
4567
4568
4569
4570
4571
4572
4573
4574
4575
4576
4577
4578
4579
4580
4581
4582
4583
4584
4585
4586
4587
4588
4589
4590
4591
4592
4593
4594
4595
4596
4597
4598
4599
4600
4601
4602
4603
4604
4605
4606
4607
4608
4609
4610
4611
4612
4613
4614
4615
4616
4617
4618
4619
4620
4621
4622
4623
4624
4625
4626
4627
4628
4629
4630
4631
4632
4633
4634
4635
4636
4637
4638
4639
4640
4641
4642
4643
4644
4645
4646
4647
4648
4649
4650
4651
4652
4653
4654
4655
4656
4657
4658
4659
4660
4661
4662
4663
4664
4665
4666
4667
4668
4669
4670
4671
4672
4673
4674
4675
4676
4677
4678
4679
4680
4681
4682
4683
4684
4685
4686
4687
4688
4689
4690
4691
4692
4693
4694
4695
4696
4697
4698
4699
4700
4701
4702
4703
4704
4705
4706
4707
4708
4709
4710
4711
4712
4713
4714
4715
4716
4717
4718
4719
4720
4721
4722
4723
4724
4725
4726
4727
4728
4729
4730
4731
4732
4733
4734
4735
4736
4737
4738
4739
4740
4741
4742
4743
4744
4745
4746
4747
4748
4749
4750
4751
4752
4753
4754
4755
4756
4757
4758
4759
4760
4761
4762
4763
4764
4765
4766
4767
4768
4769
4770
4771
4772
4773
4774
4775
4776
4777
4778
4779
4780
4781
4782
4783
4784
4785
4786
4787
4788
4789
4790
4791
4792
4793
4794
4795
4796
4797
4798
4799
4800
4801
4802
4803
4804
4805
4806
4807
4808
4809
4810
4811
4812
4813
4814
4815
4816
4817
4818
4819
4820
4821
4822
4823
4824
4825
4826
4827
4828
4829
4830
4831
4832
4833
4834
4835
4836
4837
4838
4839
4840
4841
4842
4843
4844
4845
4846
4847
4848
4849
4850
4851
4852
4853
4854
4855
4856
4857
4858
4859
4860
4861
4862
4863
4864
4865
4866
4867
4868
4869
4870
4871
4872
4873
4874
4875
4876
4877
4878
4879
4880
4881
4882
4883
4884
4885
4886
4887
4888
4889
4890
4891
4892
4893
4894
4895
4896
4897
4898
4899
4900
4901
4902
4903
4904
4905
4906
4907
4908
4909
4910
4911
4912
4913
4914
4915
4916
4917
4918
4919
4920
4921
4922
4923
4924
4925
4926
4927
4928
4929
4930
4931
4932
4933
4934
4935
4936
4937
4938
4939
4940
4941
4942
4943
4944
4945
4946
4947
4948
4949
4950
4951
4952
4953
4954
4955
4956
4957
4958
4959
4960
4961
4962
4963
4964
4965
4966
4967
4968
4969
4970
4971
4972
4973
4974
4975
4976
4977
4978
4979
4980
4981
4982
4983
4984
4985
4986
4987
4988
4989
4990
4991
4992
4993
4994
4995
4996
4997
4998
4999
5000
5001
5002
5003
5004
5005
5006
5007
5008
5009
5010
5011
5012
5013
5014
5015
5016
5017
5018
5019
5020
5021
5022
5023
5024
5025
5026
5027
5028
5029
5030
5031
5032
5033
5034
5035
5036
5037
5038
5039
5040
5041
5042
5043
5044
5045
5046
5047
5048
5049
5050
5051
5052
5053
5054
5055
5056
5057
5058
5059
5060
5061
5062
5063
5064
5065
5066
5067
5068
5069
5070
5071
5072
5073
5074
5075
5076
5077
5078
5079
5080
5081
5082
5083
5084
5085
5086
5087
5088
5089
5090
5091
5092
5093
5094
5095
5096
5097
5098
5099
5100
5101
5102
5103
5104
5105
5106
5107
5108
5109
5110
5111
5112
5113
5114
5115
5116
5117
5118
5119
5120
5121
5122
5123
5124
5125
5126
5127
5128
5129
5130
5131
5132
5133
5134
5135
5136
5137
5138
5139
5140
5141
5142
5143
5144
5145
5146
5147
5148
5149
5150
5151
5152
5153
5154
5155
5156
5157
5158
5159
5160
5161
5162
5163
5164
5165
5166
5167
5168
5169
5170
5171
5172
5173
5174
5175
5176
5177
5178
5179
5180
5181
5182
5183
5184
5185
5186
5187
5188
5189
5190
5191
5192
5193
5194
5195
5196
5197
5198
5199
5200
5201
5202
5203
5204
5205
5206
5207
5208
5209
5210
5211
5212
5213
5214
5215
5216
5217
5218
5219
5220
5221
5222
5223
5224
5225
5226
5227
5228
5229
5230
5231
5232
5233
5234
5235
5236
5237
5238
5239
5240
5241
5242
5243
5244
5245
5246
5247
5248
5249
5250
5251
5252
5253
5254
5255
5256
5257
5258
5259
5260
5261
5262
5263
5264
5265
5266
5267
5268
5269
5270
5271
5272
5273
5274
5275
5276
5277
5278
5279
5280
5281
5282
5283
5284
5285
5286
5287
5288
5289
5290
5291
5292
5293
5294
5295
5296
5297
5298
5299
5300
5301
5302
5303
5304
5305
5306
5307
5308
5309
5310
5311
5312
5313
5314
5315
5316
5317
5318
5319
5320
5321
5322
5323
5324
5325
5326
5327
5328
5329
5330
5331
5332
5333
5334
5335
5336
5337
5338
5339
5340
5341
5342
5343
5344
5345
5346
5347
5348
5349
5350
5351
5352
5353
5354
5355
5356
5357
5358
5359
5360
5361
5362
5363
5364
5365
5366
5367
5368
5369
5370
5371
5372
5373
5374
5375
5376
5377
5378
5379
5380
5381
5382
5383
5384
5385
5386
5387
5388
5389
5390
5391
5392
5393
5394
5395
5396
5397
5398
5399
5400
5401
5402
5403
5404
5405
5406
5407
5408
5409
5410
5411
5412
5413
5414
5415
5416
5417
5418
5419
5420
5421
5422
5423
5424
5425
5426
5427
5428
5429
5430
5431
5432
5433
5434
5435
5436
5437
5438
5439
5440
5441
5442
5443
5444
5445
5446
5447
5448
5449
5450
5451
5452
5453
5454
5455
5456
5457
5458
5459
5460
5461
5462
5463
5464
5465
5466
5467
5468
5469
5470
5471
5472
5473
5474
5475
5476
5477
5478
5479
5480
5481
5482
5483
5484
5485
5486
5487
5488
5489
5490
5491
5492
5493
5494
5495
5496
5497
5498
5499
5500
5501
5502
5503
5504
5505
5506
5507
5508
5509
5510
5511
5512
5513
5514
5515
5516
5517
5518
5519
5520
5521
5522
5523
5524
5525
5526
5527
5528
5529
5530
5531
5532
5533
5534
5535
5536
5537
5538
5539
5540
5541
5542
5543
5544
5545
5546
5547
5548
5549
5550
5551
5552
5553
5554
5555
5556
5557
5558
5559
5560
5561
5562
5563
5564
5565
5566
5567
5568
5569
5570
5571
5572
5573
5574
5575
5576
5577
5578
5579
5580
5581
5582
5583
5584
5585
5586
5587
5588
5589
5590
5591
5592
5593
5594
5595
5596
5597
5598
5599
5600
5601
5602
5603
5604
5605
5606
5607
5608
5609
5610
5611
5612
5613
5614
5615
5616
5617
5618
5619
5620
5621
5622
5623
5624
5625
5626
5627
5628
5629
5630
5631
5632
5633
5634
5635
5636
5637
5638
5639
5640
5641
5642
5643
5644
5645
5646
5647
5648
5649
5650
5651
5652
5653
5654
5655
5656
5657
5658
5659
5660
5661
5662
5663
5664
5665
5666
5667
5668
5669
5670
5671
5672
5673
5674
5675
5676
5677
5678
5679
5680
5681
5682
5683
5684
5685
5686
5687
5688
5689
5690
5691
5692
5693
5694
5695
5696
5697
5698
5699
5700
5701
5702
5703
5704
5705
5706
5707
5708
5709
5710
5711
5712
5713
5714
5715
5716
5717
5718
5719
5720
5721
5722
5723
5724
5725
5726
5727
5728
5729
5730
5731
5732
5733
5734
5735
5736
5737
5738
5739
5740
5741
5742
5743
5744
5745
5746
5747
5748
5749
5750
5751
5752
5753
5754
5755
5756
5757
5758
5759
5760
5761
5762
5763
5764
5765
5766
5767
5768
5769
5770
5771
5772
5773
5774
5775
5776
5777
5778
5779
5780
5781
5782
5783
5784
5785
5786
5787
5788
5789
5790
5791
5792
5793
5794
5795
5796
5797
5798
5799
5800
5801
5802
5803
5804
5805
5806
5807
5808
5809
5810
5811
5812
5813
5814
5815
5816
5817
5818
5819
5820
5821
5822
5823
5824
5825
5826
5827
5828
5829
5830
5831
5832
5833
5834
5835
5836
5837
5838
5839
5840
5841
5842
5843
5844
5845
5846
5847
5848
5849
5850
5851
5852
5853
5854
5855
5856
5857
5858
5859
5860
5861
5862
5863
5864
5865
5866
5867
5868
5869
5870
5871
5872
5873
5874
5875
5876
5877
5878
5879
5880
5881
5882
5883
5884
5885
5886
5887
5888
5889
5890
5891
5892
5893
5894
5895
5896
5897
5898
5899
5900
5901
5902
5903
5904
5905
5906
5907
5908
5909
5910
5911
5912
5913
5914
5915
5916
5917
5918
5919
5920
5921
5922
5923
5924
5925
5926
5927
5928
5929
5930
5931
5932
5933
5934
5935
5936
5937
5938
5939
5940
5941
5942
5943
5944
5945
5946
5947
5948
5949
5950
5951
5952
5953
5954
5955
5956
5957
5958
5959
5960
5961
5962
5963
5964
5965
5966
5967
5968
5969
5970
5971
5972
5973
5974
5975
5976
5977
5978
5979
5980
5981
5982
5983
5984
5985
5986
5987
5988
5989
5990
5991
5992
5993
5994
5995
5996
5997
5998
5999
6000
6001
6002
6003
6004
6005
6006
6007
6008
6009
6010
6011
6012
6013
6014
6015
6016
6017
6018
6019
6020
6021
6022
6023
6024
6025
6026
6027
6028
6029
6030
6031
6032
6033
6034
6035
6036
6037
6038
6039
6040
6041
6042
6043
6044
6045
6046
6047
6048
6049
6050
6051
6052
6053
6054
6055
6056
6057
6058
6059
6060
6061
6062
6063
6064
6065
6066
6067
6068
6069
6070
6071
6072
6073
6074
6075
6076
6077
6078
6079
6080
6081
6082
6083
6084
6085
6086
6087
6088
6089
6090
6091
6092
6093
6094
6095
6096
6097
6098
6099
6100
6101
6102
6103
6104
6105
6106
6107
6108
6109
6110
6111
6112
6113
6114
6115
6116
6117
6118
6119
6120
6121
6122
6123
6124
6125
6126
6127
6128
6129
6130
6131
6132
6133
6134
6135
6136
6137
6138
6139
6140
6141
6142
6143
6144
6145
6146
6147
6148
6149
6150
6151
6152
6153
6154
6155
6156
6157
6158
6159
6160
6161
6162
6163
6164
6165
6166
6167
6168
6169
6170
6171
6172
6173
6174
6175
6176
6177
6178
6179
6180
6181
6182
6183
6184
6185
6186
6187
6188
6189
6190
6191
6192
6193
6194
6195
6196
6197
6198
6199
6200
6201
6202
6203
6204
6205
6206
6207
6208
6209
6210
6211
6212
6213
6214
6215
6216
6217
6218
6219
6220
6221
6222
6223
6224
6225
6226
6227
6228
6229
6230
6231
6232
6233
6234
6235
6236
6237
6238
6239
6240
6241
6242
6243
6244
6245
6246
6247
6248
6249
6250
6251
6252
6253
6254
6255
6256
6257
6258
6259
6260
6261
6262
6263
6264
6265
6266
6267
6268
6269
6270
6271
6272
6273
6274
6275
6276
6277
6278
6279
6280
6281
6282
6283
6284
6285
6286
6287
6288
6289
6290
6291
6292
6293
6294
6295
6296
6297
6298
6299
6300
6301
6302
6303
6304
6305
6306
6307
6308
6309
6310
6311
6312
6313
6314
6315
6316
6317
6318
6319
6320
6321
6322
6323
6324
6325
6326
6327
6328
6329
6330
6331
6332
6333
6334
6335
6336
6337
6338
6339
6340
6341
6342
6343
6344
6345
6346
6347
6348
6349
6350
6351
6352
6353
6354
6355
6356
6357
6358
6359
6360
6361
6362
6363
6364
6365
6366
6367
6368
6369
6370
6371
6372
6373
6374
6375
6376
6377
6378
6379
6380
6381
6382
6383
6384
6385
6386
6387
6388
6389
6390
6391
6392
6393
6394
6395
6396
6397
6398
6399
6400
6401
6402
6403
6404
6405
6406
6407
6408
6409
6410
6411
6412
6413
6414
6415
6416
6417
6418
6419
6420
6421
6422
6423
6424
6425
6426
6427
6428
6429
6430
6431
6432
6433
6434
6435
6436
6437
6438
6439
6440
6441
6442
6443
6444
6445
6446
6447
6448
6449
6450
6451
6452
6453
6454
6455
6456
6457
6458
6459
6460
6461
6462
6463
6464
6465
6466
6467
6468
6469
6470
6471
6472
6473
6474
6475
6476
6477
6478
6479
6480
6481
6482
6483
6484
6485
6486
6487
6488
6489
6490
6491
6492
6493
6494
6495
6496
6497
6498
6499
6500
6501
6502
6503
6504
6505
6506
6507
6508
6509
6510
6511
6512
6513
6514
6515
6516
6517
6518
6519
6520
6521
6522
6523
6524
6525
6526
6527
6528
6529
6530
6531
6532
6533
6534
6535
6536
6537
6538
6539
6540
6541
6542
6543
6544
6545
6546
6547
6548
6549
6550
6551
6552
6553
6554
6555
6556
6557
6558
6559
6560
6561
6562
6563
6564
6565
6566
6567
6568
6569
6570
6571
6572
6573
6574
6575
6576
6577
6578
6579
6580
6581
6582
6583
6584
6585
6586
6587
6588
6589
6590
6591
6592
6593
6594
6595
6596
6597
6598
6599
6600
6601
6602
6603
6604
6605
6606
6607
6608
6609
6610
6611
6612
6613
6614
6615
6616
6617
6618
6619
6620
6621
6622
6623
6624
6625
6626
6627
6628
6629
6630
6631
6632
6633
6634
6635
6636
6637
6638
6639
6640
6641
6642
6643
6644
6645
6646
6647
6648
6649
6650
6651
6652
6653
6654
6655
6656
6657
6658
6659
6660
6661
6662
6663
6664
6665
6666
6667
6668
6669
6670
6671
6672
6673
6674
6675
6676
6677
6678
6679
6680
6681
6682
6683
6684
6685
6686
6687
6688
6689
6690
6691
6692
6693
6694
6695
6696
6697
6698
6699
6700
6701
6702
6703
6704
6705
6706
6707
6708
6709
6710
6711
6712
6713
6714
6715
6716
6717
6718
6719
6720
6721
6722
6723
6724
6725
6726
6727
6728
6729
6730
6731
6732
6733
6734
6735
6736
6737
6738
6739
6740
6741
6742
6743
6744
6745
6746
6747
6748
6749
6750
6751
6752
6753
6754
6755
6756
6757
6758
6759
6760
6761
6762
6763
6764
6765
6766
6767
6768
6769
6770
6771
6772
6773
6774
6775
6776
6777
6778
6779
6780
6781
6782
6783
6784
6785
6786
6787
6788
6789
6790
6791
6792
6793
6794
6795
6796
6797
6798
6799
6800
6801
6802
6803
6804
6805
6806
6807
6808
6809
6810
6811
6812
6813
6814
6815
6816
6817
6818
6819
6820
6821
6822
6823
6824
6825
6826
6827
6828
6829
6830
6831
6832
6833
6834
6835
6836
6837
6838
6839
6840
6841
6842
6843
6844
6845
6846
6847
6848
6849
6850
6851
6852
6853
6854
6855
6856
6857
6858
6859
6860
6861
6862
6863
6864
6865
6866
6867
6868
6869
6870
6871
6872
6873
6874
6875
6876
6877
6878
6879
6880
6881
6882
6883
6884
6885
6886
6887
6888
6889
6890
6891
6892
6893
6894
6895
6896
6897
6898
6899
6900
6901
6902
6903
6904
6905
6906
6907
6908
6909
6910
6911
6912
6913
6914
6915
6916
6917
6918
6919
6920
6921
6922
6923
6924
6925
6926
6927
6928
6929
6930
6931
6932
6933
6934
6935
6936
6937
6938
6939
6940
6941
6942
6943
6944
6945
6946
6947
6948
6949
6950
6951
6952
6953
6954
6955
6956
6957
6958
6959
6960
6961
6962
6963
6964
6965
6966
6967
6968
6969
6970
6971
6972
6973
6974
6975
6976
6977
6978
6979
6980
6981
6982
6983
6984
6985
6986
6987
6988
6989
6990
6991
6992
6993
6994
6995
6996
6997
6998
6999
7000
7001
7002
7003
7004
7005
7006
7007
7008
7009
7010
7011
7012
7013
7014
7015
7016
7017
7018
7019
7020
7021
7022
7023
7024
7025
7026
7027
7028
7029
7030
7031
7032
7033
7034
7035
7036
7037
7038
7039
7040
7041
7042
7043
7044
7045
7046
7047
7048
7049
7050
7051
7052
7053
7054
7055
7056
7057
7058
7059
7060
7061
7062
7063
7064
7065
7066
7067
7068
7069
7070
7071
7072
7073
7074
7075
7076
7077
7078
7079
7080
7081
7082
7083
7084
7085
7086
7087
7088
7089
7090
7091
7092
7093
7094
7095
7096
7097
7098
7099
7100
7101
7102
7103
7104
7105
7106
7107
7108
7109
7110
7111
7112
7113
7114
7115
7116
7117
7118
7119
7120
7121
7122
7123
7124
7125
7126
7127
7128
7129
7130
7131
7132
7133
7134
7135
7136
7137
7138
7139
7140
7141
7142
7143
7144
7145
7146
7147
7148
7149
7150
7151
7152
7153
7154
7155
7156
7157
7158
7159
7160
7161
7162
7163
7164
7165
7166
7167
7168
7169
7170
7171
7172
7173
7174
7175
7176
7177
7178
7179
7180
7181
7182
7183
7184
7185
7186
7187
7188
7189
7190
7191
7192
7193
7194
7195
7196
7197
7198
7199
7200
7201
7202
7203
7204
7205
7206
7207
7208
7209
7210
7211
7212
7213
7214
7215
7216
7217
7218
7219
7220
7221
7222
7223
7224
7225
7226
7227
7228
7229
7230
7231
7232
7233
7234
7235
7236
7237
7238
7239
7240
7241
7242
7243
7244
7245
7246
7247
7248
7249
7250
7251
7252
7253
7254
7255
7256
7257
7258
7259
7260
7261
7262
7263
7264
7265
7266
7267
7268
7269
7270
7271
7272
7273
7274
7275
7276
7277
7278
7279
7280
7281
7282
7283
7284
7285
7286
7287
7288
7289
7290
7291
7292
7293
7294
7295
7296
7297
7298
7299
7300
7301
7302
7303
7304
7305
7306
7307
7308
7309
7310
7311
7312
7313
7314
7315
7316
7317
7318
7319
7320
7321
7322
7323
7324
7325
7326
7327
7328
7329
7330
7331
7332
7333
7334
7335
7336
7337
7338
7339
7340
7341
7342
7343
7344
7345
7346
7347
7348
7349
7350
7351
7352
7353
7354
7355
7356
7357
7358
7359
7360
7361
7362
7363
7364
7365
7366
7367
7368
7369
7370
7371
7372
7373
7374
7375
7376
7377
7378
7379
7380
7381
7382
7383
7384
7385
7386
7387
7388
7389
7390
7391
7392
7393
7394
7395
7396
7397
7398
7399
7400
7401
7402
7403
7404
7405
7406
7407
7408
7409
7410
7411
7412
7413
7414
7415
7416
7417
7418
7419
7420
7421
7422
7423
7424
7425
7426
7427
7428
7429
7430
7431
7432
7433
7434
7435
7436
7437
7438
7439
7440
7441
7442
7443
7444
7445
7446
7447
7448
7449
7450
7451
7452
7453
7454
7455
7456
7457
7458
7459
7460
7461
7462
7463
7464
7465
7466
7467
7468
7469
7470
7471
7472
7473
7474
7475
7476
7477
7478
7479
7480
7481
7482
7483
7484
7485
7486
7487
7488
7489
7490
7491
7492
7493
7494
7495
7496
7497
7498
7499
7500
7501
7502
7503
7504
7505
7506
7507
7508
7509
7510
7511
7512
7513
7514
7515
7516
7517
7518
7519
7520
7521
7522
7523
7524
7525
7526
7527
7528
7529
7530
7531
7532
7533
7534
7535
7536
7537
7538
7539
7540
7541
7542
7543
7544
7545
7546
7547
7548
7549
7550
7551
7552
7553
7554
7555
7556
7557
7558
7559
7560
7561
7562
7563
7564
7565
7566
7567
7568
7569
7570
7571
7572
7573
7574
7575
7576
7577
7578
7579
7580
7581
7582
7583
7584
7585
7586
7587
7588
7589
7590
7591
7592
7593
7594
7595
7596
7597
7598
7599
7600
7601
7602
7603
7604
7605
7606
7607
7608
7609
7610
7611
7612
7613
7614
7615
7616
7617
7618
7619
7620
7621
7622
7623
7624
7625
7626
7627
7628
7629
7630
7631
7632
7633
7634
7635
7636
7637
7638
7639
7640
7641
7642
7643
7644
7645
7646
7647
7648
7649
7650
7651
7652
7653
7654
7655
7656
7657
7658
7659
7660
7661
7662
7663
7664
7665
7666
7667
7668
7669
7670
7671
7672
7673
7674
7675
7676
7677
7678
7679
7680
7681
7682
7683
7684
7685
7686
7687
7688
7689
7690
7691
7692
7693
7694
7695
7696
7697
7698
7699
7700
7701
7702
7703
7704
7705
7706
7707
7708
7709
7710
7711
7712
7713
7714
7715
7716
7717
7718
7719
7720
7721
7722
7723
7724
7725
7726
7727
7728
7729
7730
7731
7732
7733
7734
7735
7736
7737
7738
7739
7740
7741
7742
7743
7744
7745
7746
7747
7748
7749
7750
7751
7752
7753
7754
7755
7756
7757
7758
7759
7760
7761
7762
7763
7764
7765
7766
7767
7768
7769
7770
7771
7772
7773
7774
7775
7776
7777
7778
7779
7780
7781
7782
7783
7784
7785
7786
7787
7788
7789
7790
7791
7792
7793
7794
7795
7796
7797
7798
7799
7800
7801
7802
7803
7804
7805
7806
7807
7808
7809
7810
7811
7812
7813
7814
7815
7816
7817
7818
7819
7820
7821
7822
7823
7824
7825
7826
7827
7828
7829
7830
7831
7832
7833
7834
7835
7836
7837
7838
7839
7840
7841
7842
7843
7844
7845
7846
7847
7848
7849
7850
7851
7852
7853
7854
7855
7856
7857
7858
7859
7860
7861
7862
7863
7864
7865
7866
7867
7868
7869
7870
7871
7872
7873
7874
7875
7876
7877
7878
7879
7880
7881
7882
7883
7884
7885
7886
7887
7888
7889
7890
7891
7892
7893
7894
7895
7896
7897
7898
7899
7900
7901
7902
7903
7904
7905
7906
7907
7908
7909
7910
7911
7912
7913
7914
7915
7916
7917
7918
7919
7920
7921
7922
7923
7924
7925
7926
7927
7928
7929
7930
7931
7932
7933
7934
7935
7936
7937
7938
7939
7940
7941
7942
7943
7944
7945
7946
7947
7948
7949
7950
7951
7952
7953
7954
7955
7956
7957
7958
7959
7960
7961
7962
7963
7964
7965
7966
7967
7968
7969
7970
7971
7972
7973
7974
7975
7976
7977
7978
7979
7980
7981
7982
7983
7984
7985
7986
7987
7988
7989
7990
7991
7992
7993
7994
7995
7996
7997
7998
7999
8000
8001
8002
8003
8004
8005
8006
8007
8008
8009
8010
8011
8012
8013
8014
8015
8016
8017
8018
8019
8020
8021
8022
8023
8024
8025
8026
8027
8028
8029
8030
8031
8032
8033
8034
8035
8036
8037
8038
8039
8040
8041
8042
8043
8044
8045
8046
8047
8048
8049
8050
8051
8052
8053
8054
8055
8056
8057
8058
8059
8060
8061
8062
8063
8064
8065
8066
8067
8068
8069
8070
8071
8072
8073
8074
8075
8076
8077
8078
8079
8080
8081
8082
8083
8084
8085
8086
8087
8088
8089
8090
8091
8092
8093
8094
8095
8096
8097
8098
8099
8100
8101
8102
8103
8104
8105
8106
8107
8108
8109
8110
8111
8112
8113
8114
8115
8116
8117
8118
8119
8120
8121
8122
8123
8124
8125
8126
8127
8128
8129
8130
8131
8132
8133
8134
8135
8136
8137
8138
8139
8140
8141
8142
8143
8144
8145
8146
8147
8148
8149
8150
8151
8152
8153
8154
8155
8156
8157
8158
8159
8160
8161
8162
8163
8164
8165
8166
8167
8168
8169
8170
8171
8172
8173
8174
8175
8176
8177
8178
8179
8180
8181
8182
8183
8184
8185
8186
8187
8188
8189
8190
8191
8192
8193
8194
8195
8196
8197
8198
8199
8200
8201
8202
8203
8204
8205
8206
8207
8208
8209
8210
8211
8212
8213
8214
8215
8216
8217
8218
8219
8220
8221
8222
8223
8224
8225
8226
8227
8228
8229
8230
8231
8232
8233
8234
8235
8236
8237
8238
8239
8240
8241
8242
8243
8244
8245
8246
8247
8248
8249
8250
8251
8252
8253
8254
8255
8256
8257
8258
8259
8260
8261
8262
8263
8264
8265
8266
8267
8268
8269
8270
8271
8272
8273
8274
8275
8276
8277
8278
8279
8280
8281
8282
8283
8284
8285
8286
8287
8288
8289
8290
8291
8292
8293
8294
8295
8296
8297
8298
8299
8300
8301
8302
8303
8304
8305
8306
8307
8308
8309
8310
8311
8312
8313
8314
8315
8316
8317
8318
8319
8320
8321
8322
8323
8324
8325
8326
8327
8328
8329
8330
8331
8332
8333
8334
8335
8336
8337
8338
8339
8340
8341
8342
8343
8344
8345
8346
8347
8348
8349
8350
8351
8352
8353
8354
8355
8356
8357
8358
8359
8360
8361
8362
8363
8364
8365
8366
8367
8368
8369
8370
8371
8372
8373
8374
8375
8376
8377
8378
8379
8380
8381
8382
8383
8384
8385
8386
8387
8388
8389
8390
8391
8392
8393
8394
8395
8396
8397
8398
8399
8400
8401
8402
8403
8404
8405
8406
8407
8408
8409
8410
8411
8412
8413
8414
8415
8416
8417
8418
8419
8420
8421
8422
8423
8424
8425
8426
8427
8428
8429
8430
8431
8432
8433
8434
8435
8436
8437
8438
8439
8440
8441
8442
8443
8444
8445
8446
8447
8448
8449
8450
8451
8452
8453
8454
8455
8456
8457
8458
8459
8460
8461
8462
8463
8464
8465
8466
8467
8468
8469
8470
8471
8472
8473
8474
8475
8476
8477
8478
8479
8480
8481
8482
8483
8484
8485
8486
8487
8488
8489
8490
8491
8492
8493
8494
8495
8496
8497
8498
8499
8500
8501
8502
8503
8504
8505
8506
8507
8508
8509
8510
8511
8512
8513
8514
8515
8516
8517
8518
8519
8520
8521
8522
8523
8524
8525
8526
8527
8528
8529
8530
8531
8532
8533
8534
8535
8536
8537
8538
8539
8540
8541
8542
8543
8544
8545
8546
8547
8548
8549
8550
8551
8552
8553
8554
8555
8556
8557
8558
8559
8560
8561
8562
8563
8564
8565
8566
8567
8568
8569
8570
8571
8572
8573
8574
8575
8576
8577
8578
8579
8580
8581
8582
8583
8584
8585
8586
8587
8588
8589
8590
8591
8592
8593
8594
8595
8596
8597
8598
8599
8600
8601
8602
8603
8604
8605
8606
8607
8608
8609
8610
8611
8612
8613
8614
8615
8616
8617
8618
8619
8620
8621
8622
8623
8624
8625
8626
8627
8628
8629
8630
8631
8632
8633
8634
8635
8636
8637
8638
8639
8640
8641
8642
8643
8644
8645
8646
8647
8648
8649
8650
8651
8652
8653
8654
8655
8656
8657
8658
8659
8660
8661
8662
8663
8664
8665
8666
8667
8668
8669
8670
8671
8672
8673
8674
8675
8676
8677
8678
8679
8680
8681
8682
8683
8684
8685
8686
8687
8688
8689
8690
8691
8692
8693
8694
8695
8696
8697
8698
8699
8700
8701
8702
8703
8704
8705
8706
8707
8708
8709
8710
8711
8712
8713
8714
8715
8716
8717
8718
8719
8720
8721
8722
8723
8724
8725
8726
8727
8728
8729
8730
8731
8732
8733
8734
8735
8736
8737
8738
8739
8740
8741
8742
8743
8744
8745
8746
8747
8748
8749
8750
8751
8752
8753
8754
8755
8756
8757
8758
8759
8760
8761
8762
8763
8764
8765
8766
8767
8768
8769
8770
8771
8772
8773
8774
8775
8776
8777
8778
8779
8780
8781
8782
8783
8784
8785
8786
8787
8788
8789
8790
8791
8792
8793
8794
8795
8796
8797
8798
8799
8800
8801
8802
8803
8804
8805
8806
8807
8808
8809
8810
8811
8812
8813
8814
8815
8816
8817
8818
8819
8820
8821
8822
8823
8824
8825
8826
8827
8828
8829
8830
8831
8832
8833
8834
8835
8836
8837
8838
8839
8840
8841
8842
8843
8844
8845
8846
8847
8848
8849
8850
8851
8852
8853
8854
8855
8856
8857
8858
8859
8860
8861
8862
8863
8864
8865
8866
8867
8868
8869
8870
8871
8872
8873
8874
8875
8876
8877
8878
8879
8880
8881
8882
8883
8884
8885
8886
8887
8888
8889
8890
8891
8892
8893
8894
8895
8896
8897
8898
8899
8900
8901
8902
8903
8904
8905
8906
8907
8908
8909
8910
8911
8912
8913
8914
8915
8916
8917
8918
8919
8920
8921
8922
8923
8924
8925
8926
8927
8928
8929
8930
8931
8932
8933
8934
8935
8936
8937
8938
8939
8940
8941
8942
8943
8944
8945
8946
8947
8948
8949
8950
8951
8952
8953
8954
8955
8956
8957
8958
8959
8960
8961
8962
8963
8964
8965
8966
8967
8968
8969
8970
8971
8972
8973
8974
8975
8976
8977
8978
8979
8980
8981
8982
8983
8984
8985
8986
8987
8988
8989
8990
8991
8992
8993
8994
8995
8996
8997
8998
8999
9000
9001
9002
9003
9004
9005
9006
9007
9008
9009
9010
9011
9012
9013
9014
9015
9016
9017
9018
9019
9020
9021
9022
9023
9024
9025
9026
9027
9028
9029
9030
9031
9032
9033
9034
9035
9036
9037
9038
9039
9040
9041
9042
9043
9044
9045
9046
9047
9048
9049
9050
9051
9052
9053
9054
9055
9056
9057
9058
9059
9060
9061
9062
9063
9064
9065
9066
9067
9068
9069
9070
9071
9072
9073
9074
9075
9076
9077
9078
9079
9080
9081
9082
9083
9084
9085
9086
9087
9088
9089
9090
9091
9092
9093
9094
9095
9096
9097
9098
9099
9100
9101
9102
9103
9104
9105
9106
9107
9108
9109
9110
9111
9112
9113
9114
9115
9116
9117
9118
9119
9120
9121
9122
9123
9124
9125
9126
9127
9128
9129
9130
9131
9132
9133
9134
9135
9136
9137
9138
9139
9140
9141
9142
9143
9144
9145
9146
9147
9148
9149
9150
9151
9152
9153
9154
9155
9156
9157
9158
9159
9160
9161
9162
9163
9164
9165
9166
9167
9168
9169
9170
9171
9172
9173
9174
9175
9176
9177
9178
9179
9180
9181
9182
9183
9184
9185
9186
9187
9188
9189
9190
9191
9192
9193
9194
9195
9196
9197
9198
9199
9200
9201
9202
9203
9204
9205
9206
9207
9208
9209
9210
9211
9212
9213
9214
9215
9216
9217
9218
9219
9220
9221
9222
9223
9224
9225
9226
9227
9228
9229
9230
9231
9232
9233
9234
9235
9236
9237
9238
9239
9240
9241
9242
9243
9244
9245
9246
9247
9248
9249
9250
9251
9252
9253
9254
9255
9256
9257
9258
9259
9260
9261
9262
9263
9264
9265
9266
9267
9268
9269
9270
9271
9272
9273
9274
9275
9276
9277
9278
9279
9280
9281
9282
9283
9284
9285
9286
9287
9288
9289
9290
9291
9292
9293
9294
9295
9296
9297
9298
9299
9300
9301
9302
9303
9304
9305
9306
9307
9308
9309
9310
9311
9312
9313
9314
9315
9316
9317
9318
9319
9320
9321
9322
9323
9324
9325
9326
9327
9328
9329
9330
9331
9332
9333
9334
9335
9336
9337
9338
9339
9340
9341
9342
9343
9344
9345
9346
9347
9348
9349
9350
9351
9352
9353
9354
9355
9356
9357
9358
9359
9360
9361
9362
9363
9364
9365
9366
9367
9368
9369
9370
9371
9372
9373
9374
9375
9376
9377
9378
9379
9380
9381
9382
9383
9384
9385
9386
9387
9388
9389
9390
9391
9392
9393
9394
9395
9396
9397
9398
9399
9400
9401
9402
9403
9404
9405
9406
9407
9408
9409
9410
9411
9412
9413
9414
9415
9416
9417
9418
9419
9420
9421
9422
9423
9424
9425
9426
9427
9428
9429
9430
9431
9432
9433
9434
9435
9436
9437
9438
9439
9440
9441
9442
9443
9444
9445
9446
9447
9448
9449
9450
9451
9452
9453
9454
9455
9456
9457
9458
9459
9460
9461
9462
9463
9464
9465
9466
9467
9468
9469
9470
9471
9472
9473
9474
9475
9476
9477
9478
9479
9480
9481
9482
9483
9484
9485
9486
9487
9488
9489
9490
9491
9492
9493
9494
9495
9496
9497
9498
9499
9500
9501
9502
9503
9504
9505
9506
9507
9508
9509
9510
9511
9512
9513
9514
9515
9516
9517
9518
9519
9520
9521
9522
9523
9524
9525
9526
9527
9528
9529
9530
9531
9532
9533
9534
9535
9536
9537
9538
9539
9540
9541
9542
9543
9544
9545
9546
9547
9548
9549
9550
9551
9552
9553
9554
9555
9556
9557
9558
9559
9560
9561
9562
9563
9564
9565
9566
9567
9568
9569
9570
9571
9572
9573
9574
9575
9576
9577
9578
9579
9580
9581
9582
9583
9584
9585
9586
9587
9588
9589
9590
9591
9592
9593
9594
9595
9596
9597
9598
9599
9600
9601
9602
9603
9604
9605
9606
9607
9608
9609
9610
9611
9612
9613
9614
9615
9616
9617
9618
9619
9620
9621
9622
9623
9624
9625
9626
9627
9628
9629
9630
9631
9632
9633
9634
9635
9636
9637
9638
9639
9640
9641
9642
9643
9644
9645
9646
9647
9648
9649
9650
9651
9652
9653
9654
9655
9656
9657
9658
9659
9660
9661
9662
9663
9664
9665
9666
9667
9668
9669
9670
9671
9672
9673
9674
9675
9676
9677
9678
9679
9680
9681
9682
9683
9684
9685
9686
9687
9688
9689
9690
9691
9692
9693
9694
9695
9696
9697
9698
9699
9700
9701
9702
9703
9704
9705
9706
9707
9708
9709
9710
9711
9712
9713
9714
9715
9716
9717
9718
9719
9720
9721
9722
9723
9724
9725
9726
9727
9728
9729
9730
9731
9732
9733
9734
9735
9736
9737
9738
9739
9740
9741
9742
9743
9744
9745
9746
9747
9748
9749
9750
9751
9752
9753
9754
9755
9756
9757
9758
9759
9760
9761
9762
9763
9764
9765
9766
9767
9768
9769
9770
9771
9772
9773
9774
9775
9776
9777
9778
9779
9780
9781
9782
9783
9784
9785
9786
9787
9788
9789
9790
9791
9792
9793
9794
9795
9796
9797
9798
9799
9800
9801
9802
9803
9804
9805
9806
9807
9808
9809
9810
9811
9812
9813
9814
9815
9816
9817
9818
9819
9820
9821
9822
9823
9824
9825
9826
9827
9828
9829
9830
9831
9832
9833
9834
9835
9836
9837
9838
9839
9840
9841
9842
9843
9844
9845
9846
9847
9848
9849
9850
9851
9852
9853
9854
9855
9856
9857
9858
9859
9860
9861
9862
9863
9864
9865
9866
9867
9868
9869
9870
9871
9872
9873
9874
9875
9876
9877
9878
9879
9880
9881
9882
9883
9884
9885
9886
9887
9888
9889
9890
9891
9892
9893
9894
9895
9896
9897
9898
9899
9900
9901
9902
9903
9904
9905
9906
9907
9908
9909
9910
9911
9912
9913
9914
9915
9916
9917
9918
9919
9920
9921
9922
9923
9924
9925
9926
9927
9928
9929
9930
9931
9932
9933
9934
9935
9936
9937
9938
9939
9940
9941
9942
9943
9944
9945
9946
9947
9948
9949
9950
9951
9952
9953
9954
9955
9956
9957
9958
9959
9960
9961
9962
9963
9964
9965
9966
9967
9968
9969
9970
9971
9972
9973
9974
9975
9976
9977
9978
9979
9980
9981
9982
9983
9984
9985
9986
9987
9988
9989
9990
9991
9992
9993
9994
9995
9996
9997
9998
9999
10000
10001
10002
10003
10004
10005
10006
10007
10008
10009
10010
10011
10012
10013
10014
10015
10016
10017
10018
10019
10020
10021
10022
10023
10024
10025
10026
10027
10028
10029
10030
10031
10032
10033
10034
10035
10036
10037
10038
10039
10040
10041
10042
10043
10044
10045
10046
10047
10048
10049
10050
10051
10052
10053
10054
10055
10056
10057
10058
10059
10060
10061
10062
10063
10064
10065
10066
10067
10068
10069
10070
10071
10072
10073
10074
10075
10076
10077
10078
10079
10080
10081
10082
10083
10084
10085
10086
10087
10088
10089
10090
10091
10092
10093
10094
10095
10096
10097
10098
10099
10100
10101
10102
10103
10104
10105
10106
10107
10108
10109
10110
10111
10112
10113
10114
10115
10116
10117
10118
10119
10120
10121
10122
10123
10124
10125
10126
10127
10128
10129
10130
10131
10132
10133
10134
10135
10136
10137
10138
10139
10140
10141
10142
10143
10144
10145
10146
10147
10148
10149
10150
10151
10152
10153
10154
10155
10156
10157
10158
10159
10160
10161
10162
10163
10164
10165
10166
10167
10168
10169
10170
10171
10172
10173
10174
10175
10176
10177
10178
10179
10180
10181
10182
10183
10184
10185
10186
10187
10188
10189
10190
10191
10192
10193
10194
10195
10196
10197
10198
10199
10200
10201
10202
10203
10204
10205
10206
10207
10208
10209
10210
10211
10212
10213
10214
10215
10216
10217
10218
10219
10220
10221
10222
10223
10224
10225
10226
10227
10228
10229
10230
10231
10232
10233
10234
10235
10236
10237
10238
10239
10240
10241
10242
10243
10244
10245
10246
10247
10248
10249
10250
10251
10252
10253
10254
10255
10256
10257
10258
10259
10260
10261
10262
10263
10264
10265
10266
10267
10268
10269
10270
10271
10272
10273
10274
10275
10276
10277
10278
10279
10280
10281
10282
10283
10284
10285
10286
10287
10288
10289
10290
10291
10292
10293
10294
10295
10296
10297
10298
10299
10300
10301
10302
10303
10304
10305
10306
10307
10308
10309
10310
10311
10312
10313
10314
10315
10316
10317
10318
10319
10320
10321
10322
10323
10324
10325
10326
10327
10328
10329
10330
10331
10332
10333
10334
10335
10336
10337
10338
10339
10340
10341
10342
10343
10344
10345
10346
10347
10348
10349
10350
10351
10352
10353
10354
10355
10356
10357
10358
10359
10360
10361
10362
10363
10364
10365
10366
10367
10368
10369
10370
10371
10372
10373
10374
10375
10376
10377
10378
10379
10380
10381
10382
10383
10384
10385
10386
10387
10388
10389
10390
10391
10392
10393
10394
10395
10396
10397
10398
10399
10400
10401
10402
10403
10404
10405
10406
10407
10408
10409
10410
10411
10412
10413
10414
10415
10416
10417
10418
10419
10420
10421
10422
10423
10424
10425
10426
10427
10428
10429
10430
10431
10432
10433
10434
10435
10436
10437
10438
10439
10440
10441
10442
10443
10444
10445
10446
10447
10448
10449
10450
10451
10452
10453
10454
10455
10456
10457
10458
10459
10460
10461
10462
10463
10464
10465
10466
10467
10468
10469
10470
10471
10472
10473
10474
10475
10476
10477
10478
10479
10480
10481
10482
10483
10484
10485
10486
10487
10488
10489
10490
10491
10492
10493
10494
10495
10496
10497
10498
10499
10500
10501
10502
10503
10504
10505
10506
10507
10508
10509
10510
10511
10512
10513
10514
10515
10516
10517
10518
10519
10520
10521
10522
10523
10524
10525
10526
10527
10528
10529
10530
10531
10532
10533
10534
10535
10536
10537
10538
10539
10540
10541
10542
10543
10544
10545
10546
10547
10548
10549
10550
10551
10552
10553
10554
10555
10556
10557
10558
10559
10560
10561
10562
10563
10564
10565
10566
10567
10568
10569
10570
10571
10572
10573
10574
10575
10576
10577
10578
10579
10580
10581
10582
10583
10584
10585
10586
10587
10588
10589
10590
10591
10592
10593
10594
10595
10596
10597
10598
10599
10600
10601
10602
10603
10604
10605
10606
10607
10608
10609
10610
10611
10612
10613
10614
10615
10616
10617
10618
10619
10620
10621
10622
10623
10624
10625
10626
10627
10628
10629
10630
10631
10632
10633
10634
10635
10636
10637
10638
10639
10640
10641
10642
10643
10644
10645
10646
10647
10648
10649
10650
10651
10652
10653
10654
10655
10656
10657
10658
10659
10660
10661
10662
10663
10664
10665
10666
10667
10668
10669
10670
10671
10672
10673
10674
10675
10676
10677
10678
10679
10680
10681
10682
10683
10684
10685
10686
10687
10688
10689
10690
10691
10692
10693
10694
10695
10696
10697
10698
10699
10700
10701
10702
10703
10704
10705
10706
10707
10708
10709
10710
10711
10712
10713
10714
10715
10716
10717
10718
10719
10720
10721
10722
10723
10724
10725
10726
10727
10728
10729
10730
10731
10732
10733
10734
10735
10736
10737
10738
10739
10740
10741
10742
10743
10744
10745
10746
10747
10748
10749
10750
10751
10752
10753
10754
10755
10756
10757
10758
10759
10760
10761
10762
10763
10764
10765
10766
10767
10768
10769
10770
10771
10772
10773
10774
10775
10776
10777
10778
10779
10780
10781
10782
10783
10784
10785
10786
10787
10788
10789
10790
10791
10792
10793
10794
10795
10796
10797
10798
10799
10800
10801
10802
10803
10804
10805
10806
10807
10808
10809
10810
10811
10812
10813
10814
10815
10816
10817
10818
10819
10820
10821
10822
10823
10824
10825
10826
10827
10828
10829
10830
10831
10832
10833
10834
10835
10836
10837
10838
10839
10840
10841
10842
10843
10844
10845
10846
10847
10848
10849
10850
10851
10852
10853
10854
10855
10856
10857
10858
10859
10860
10861
10862
10863
10864
10865
10866
10867
10868
10869
10870
10871
10872
10873
10874
10875
10876
10877
10878
10879
10880
10881
10882
10883
10884
10885
10886
10887
10888
10889
10890
10891
10892
10893
10894
10895
10896
10897
10898
10899
10900
10901
10902
10903
10904
10905
10906
10907
10908
10909
10910
10911
10912
10913
10914
10915
10916
10917
10918
10919
10920
10921
10922
10923
10924
10925
10926
10927
10928
10929
10930
10931
10932
10933
10934
10935
10936
10937
10938
10939
10940
10941
10942
10943
10944
10945
10946
10947
10948
10949
10950
10951
10952
10953
10954
10955
10956
10957
10958
10959
10960
10961
10962
10963
10964
10965
10966
10967
10968
10969
10970
10971
10972
10973
10974
10975
10976
10977
10978
10979
10980
10981
10982
10983
10984
10985
10986
10987
10988
10989
10990
10991
10992
10993
10994
10995
10996
10997
10998
10999
11000
11001
11002
11003
11004
11005
11006
11007
11008
11009
11010
11011
11012
11013
11014
11015
11016
11017
11018
11019
11020
11021
11022
11023
11024
11025
11026
11027
11028
11029
11030
11031
11032
11033
11034
11035
11036
11037
11038
11039
11040
11041
11042
11043
11044
11045
11046
11047
11048
11049
11050
11051
11052
11053
11054
11055
11056
11057
11058
11059
11060
11061
11062
11063
11064
11065
11066
11067
11068
11069
11070
11071
11072
11073
11074
11075
11076
11077
11078
11079
11080
11081
11082
11083
11084
11085
11086
11087
11088
11089
11090
11091
11092
11093
11094
11095
11096
11097
11098
11099
11100
11101
11102
11103
11104
11105
11106
11107
11108
11109
11110
11111
11112
11113
11114
11115
11116
11117
11118
11119
11120
11121
11122
11123
11124
11125
11126
11127
11128
11129
11130
11131
11132
11133
11134
11135
11136
11137
11138
11139
11140
11141
11142
11143
11144
11145
11146
11147
11148
11149
11150
11151
11152
11153
11154
11155
11156
11157
11158
11159
11160
11161
11162
11163
11164
11165
11166
11167
11168
11169
11170
11171
11172
11173
11174
11175
11176
11177
11178
11179
11180
11181
11182
11183
11184
11185
11186
11187
11188
11189
11190
11191
11192
11193
11194
11195
11196
11197
11198
11199
11200
11201
11202
11203
11204
11205
11206
11207
11208
11209
11210
11211
11212
11213
11214
11215
11216
11217
11218
11219
11220
11221
11222
11223
11224
11225
11226
11227
11228
11229
11230
11231
11232
11233
11234
11235
11236
11237
11238
11239
11240
11241
11242
11243
11244
11245
11246
11247
11248
11249
11250
11251
11252
11253
11254
11255
11256
11257
11258
11259
11260
11261
11262
11263
11264
11265
11266
11267
11268
11269
11270
11271
11272
11273
11274
11275
11276
11277
11278
11279
11280
11281
11282
11283
11284
11285
11286
11287
11288
11289
11290
11291
11292
11293
11294
11295
11296
11297
11298
11299
11300
11301
11302
11303
11304
11305
11306
11307
11308
11309
11310
11311
11312
11313
11314
11315
11316
11317
11318
11319
11320
11321
11322
11323
11324
11325
11326
11327
11328
11329
11330
11331
11332
11333
11334
11335
11336
11337
11338
11339
11340
11341
11342
11343
11344
11345
11346
11347
11348
11349
11350
11351
11352
11353
11354
11355
11356
11357
11358
11359
11360
11361
11362
11363
11364
11365
11366
11367
11368
11369
11370
11371
11372
11373
11374
11375
11376
11377
11378
11379
11380
11381
11382
11383
11384
11385
11386
11387
11388
11389
11390
11391
11392
11393
11394
11395
11396
11397
11398
11399
11400
11401
11402
11403
11404
11405
11406
11407
11408
11409
11410
11411
11412
11413
11414
11415
11416
11417
11418
11419
11420
11421
11422
11423
11424
11425
11426
11427
11428
11429
11430
11431
11432
11433
11434
11435
11436
11437
11438
11439
11440
11441
11442
11443
11444
11445
11446
11447
11448
11449
11450
11451
11452
11453
11454
11455
11456
11457
11458
11459
11460
11461
11462
11463
11464
11465
11466
11467
11468
11469
11470
11471
11472
11473
11474
11475
11476
11477
11478
11479
11480
11481
11482
11483
11484
11485
11486
11487
11488
11489
11490
11491
11492
11493
11494
11495
11496
11497
11498
11499
11500
11501
11502
11503
11504
11505
11506
11507
11508
11509
11510
11511
11512
11513
11514
11515
11516
11517
11518
11519
11520
11521
11522
11523
11524
11525
11526
11527
11528
11529
11530
11531
11532
11533
11534
11535
11536
11537
11538
11539
11540
11541
11542
11543
11544
11545
11546
11547
11548
11549
11550
11551
11552
11553
11554
11555
11556
11557
11558
11559
11560
11561
11562
11563
11564
11565
11566
11567
11568
11569
11570
11571
11572
11573
11574
11575
11576
11577
11578
11579
11580
11581
11582
11583
11584
11585
11586
11587
11588
11589
11590
11591
11592
11593
11594
11595
11596
11597
11598
11599
11600
11601
11602
11603
11604
11605
11606
11607
11608
11609
11610
11611
11612
11613
11614
11615
11616
11617
11618
11619
11620
11621
11622
11623
11624
11625
11626
11627
11628
11629
11630
11631
11632
11633
11634
11635
11636
11637
11638
11639
11640
11641
11642
11643
11644
11645
11646
11647
11648
11649
11650
11651
11652
11653
11654
11655
11656
11657
11658
11659
11660
11661
11662
11663
11664
11665
11666
11667
11668
11669
11670
11671
11672
11673
11674
11675
11676
11677
11678
11679
11680
11681
11682
11683
11684
11685
11686
11687
11688
11689
11690
11691
11692
11693
11694
11695
11696
11697
11698
11699
11700
11701
11702
11703
11704
11705
11706
11707
11708
11709
11710
11711
11712
11713
11714
11715
11716
11717
11718
11719
11720
11721
11722
11723
11724
11725
11726
11727
11728
11729
11730
11731
11732
11733
11734
11735
11736
11737
11738
11739
11740
11741
11742
11743
11744
11745
11746
11747
11748
11749
11750
11751
11752
11753
11754
11755
11756
11757
11758
11759
11760
11761
11762
11763
11764
11765
11766
11767
11768
11769
11770
11771
11772
11773
11774
11775
11776
11777
11778
11779
11780
11781
11782
11783
11784
11785
11786
11787
11788
11789
11790
11791
11792
11793
11794
11795
11796
11797
11798
11799
11800
11801
11802
11803
11804
11805
11806
11807
11808
11809
11810
11811
11812
11813
11814
11815
11816
11817
11818
11819
11820
11821
11822
11823
11824
11825
11826
11827
11828
11829
11830
11831
11832
11833
11834
11835
11836
11837
11838
11839
11840
11841
11842
11843
11844
11845
11846
11847
11848
11849
11850
11851
11852
11853
11854
11855
11856
11857
11858
11859
11860
11861
11862
11863
11864
11865
11866
11867
11868
11869
11870
11871
11872
11873
11874
11875
11876
11877
11878
11879
11880
11881
11882
11883
11884
11885
11886
11887
11888
11889
11890
11891
11892
11893
11894
11895
11896
11897
11898
11899
11900
11901
11902
11903
11904
11905
11906
11907
11908
11909
11910
11911
11912
11913
11914
11915
11916
11917
11918
11919
11920
11921
11922
11923
11924
11925
11926
11927
11928
11929
11930
11931
11932
11933
11934
11935
11936
11937
11938
11939
11940
11941
11942
11943
11944
11945
11946
11947
11948
11949
11950
11951
11952
11953
11954
11955
11956
11957
11958
11959
11960
11961
11962
11963
11964
11965
11966
11967
11968
11969
11970
11971
11972
11973
11974
11975
11976
11977
11978
11979
11980
11981
11982
11983
11984
11985
11986
11987
11988
11989
11990
11991
11992
11993
11994
11995
11996
11997
11998
11999
12000
12001
12002
12003
12004
12005
12006
12007
12008
12009
12010
12011
12012
12013
12014
12015
12016
12017
12018
12019
12020
12021
12022
12023
12024
12025
12026
12027
12028
12029
12030
12031
12032
12033
12034
12035
12036
12037
12038
12039
12040
12041
12042
12043
12044
12045
12046
12047
12048
12049
12050
12051
12052
12053
12054
12055
12056
12057
12058
12059
12060
12061
12062
12063
12064
12065
12066
12067
12068
12069
12070
12071
12072
12073
12074
12075
12076
12077
12078
12079
12080
12081
12082
12083
12084
12085
12086
12087
12088
12089
12090
12091
12092
12093
12094
12095
12096
12097
12098
12099
12100
12101
12102
12103
12104
12105
12106
12107
12108
12109
12110
12111
12112
12113
12114
12115
12116
12117
12118
12119
12120
12121
12122
12123
12124
12125
12126
12127
12128
12129
12130
12131
12132
12133
12134
12135
12136
12137
12138
12139
12140
12141
12142
12143
12144
12145
12146
12147
12148
12149
12150
12151
12152
12153
12154
12155
12156
12157
12158
12159
12160
12161
12162
12163
12164
12165
12166
12167
12168
12169
12170
12171
12172
12173
12174
12175
12176
12177
12178
12179
12180
12181
12182
12183
12184
12185
12186
12187
12188
12189
12190
12191
12192
12193
12194
12195
12196
12197
12198
12199
12200
12201
12202
12203
12204
12205
12206
12207
12208
12209
12210
12211
12212
12213
12214
12215
12216
12217
12218
12219
12220
12221
12222
12223
12224
12225
12226
12227
12228
12229
12230
12231
12232
12233
12234
12235
12236
12237
12238
12239
12240
12241
12242
12243
12244
12245
12246
12247
12248
12249
12250
12251
12252
12253
12254
12255
12256
12257
12258
12259
12260
12261
12262
12263
12264
12265
12266
12267
12268
12269
12270
12271
12272
12273
12274
12275
12276
12277
12278
12279
12280
12281
12282
12283
12284
12285
12286
12287
12288
12289
12290
12291
12292
12293
12294
12295
12296
12297
12298
12299
12300
12301
12302
12303
12304
12305
12306
12307
12308
12309
12310
12311
12312
12313
12314
12315
12316
12317
12318
12319
12320
12321
12322
12323
12324
12325
12326
12327
12328
12329
12330
12331
12332
12333
12334
12335
12336
12337
12338
12339
12340
12341
12342
12343
12344
12345
12346
12347
12348
12349
12350
12351
12352
12353
12354
12355
12356
12357
12358
12359
12360
12361
12362
12363
12364
12365
12366
12367
12368
12369
12370
12371
12372
12373
12374
12375
12376
12377
12378
12379
12380
12381
12382
12383
12384
12385
12386
12387
12388
12389
12390
12391
12392
12393
12394
12395
12396
12397
12398
12399
12400
12401
12402
12403
12404
12405
12406
12407
12408
12409
12410
12411
12412
12413
12414
12415
12416
12417
12418
12419
12420
12421
12422
12423
12424
12425
12426
12427
12428
12429
12430
12431
12432
12433
12434
12435
12436
12437
12438
12439
12440
12441
12442
12443
12444
12445
12446
12447
12448
12449
12450
12451
12452
12453
12454
12455
12456
12457
12458
12459
12460
12461
12462
12463
12464
12465
12466
12467
12468
12469
12470
12471
12472
12473
12474
12475
12476
12477
12478
12479
12480
12481
12482
12483
12484
12485
12486
12487
12488
12489
12490
12491
12492
12493
12494
12495
12496
12497
12498
12499
12500
12501
12502
12503
12504
12505
12506
12507
12508
12509
12510
12511
12512
12513
12514
12515
12516
12517
12518
12519
12520
12521
12522
12523
12524
12525
12526
12527
12528
12529
12530
12531
12532
12533
12534
12535
12536
12537
12538
12539
12540
12541
12542
12543
12544
12545
12546
12547
12548
12549
12550
12551
12552
12553
12554
12555
12556
12557
12558
12559
12560
12561
12562
12563
12564
12565
12566
12567
12568
12569
12570
12571
12572
12573
12574
12575
12576
12577
12578
12579
12580
12581
12582
12583
12584
12585
12586
12587
12588
12589
12590
12591
12592
12593
12594
12595
12596
12597
12598
12599
12600
12601
12602
12603
12604
12605
12606
12607
12608
12609
12610
12611
12612
12613
12614
12615
12616
12617
12618
12619
12620
12621
12622
12623
12624
12625
12626
12627
12628
12629
12630
12631
12632
12633
12634
12635
12636
12637
12638
12639
12640
12641
12642
12643
12644
12645
12646
12647
12648
12649
12650
12651
12652
12653
12654
12655
12656
12657
12658
12659
12660
12661
12662
12663
12664
12665
12666
12667
12668
12669
12670
12671
12672
12673
12674
12675
12676
12677
12678
12679
12680
12681
12682
12683
12684
12685
12686
12687
12688
12689
12690
12691
12692
12693
12694
12695
12696
12697
12698
12699
12700
12701
12702
12703
12704
12705
12706
12707
12708
12709
12710
12711
12712
12713
12714
12715
12716
12717
12718
12719
12720
12721
12722
12723
12724
12725
12726
12727
12728
12729
12730
12731
12732
12733
12734
12735
12736
12737
12738
12739
12740
12741
12742
12743
12744
12745
12746
12747
12748
12749
12750
12751
12752
12753
12754
12755
12756
12757
12758
12759
12760
12761
12762
12763
12764
12765
12766
12767
12768
12769
12770
12771
12772
12773
12774
12775
12776
12777
12778
12779
12780
12781
12782
12783
12784
12785
12786
12787
12788
12789
12790
12791
12792
12793
12794
12795
12796
12797
12798
12799
12800
12801
12802
12803
12804
12805
12806
12807
12808
12809
12810
12811
12812
12813
12814
12815
12816
12817
12818
12819
12820
12821
12822
12823
12824
12825
12826
12827
12828
12829
12830
12831
12832
12833
12834
12835
12836
12837
12838
12839
12840
12841
12842
12843
12844
12845
12846
12847
12848
12849
12850
12851
12852
12853
12854
12855
12856
12857
12858
12859
12860
12861
12862
12863
12864
12865
12866
12867
12868
12869
12870
12871
12872
12873
12874
12875
12876
12877
12878
12879
12880
12881
12882
12883
12884
12885
12886
12887
12888
12889
12890
12891
12892
12893
12894
12895
12896
12897
12898
12899
12900
12901
12902
12903
12904
12905
12906
12907
12908
12909
12910
12911
12912
12913
12914
12915
12916
12917
12918
12919
12920
12921
12922
12923
12924
12925
12926
12927
12928
12929
12930
12931
12932
12933
12934
12935
12936
12937
12938
12939
12940
12941
12942
12943
12944
12945
12946
12947
12948
12949
12950
12951
12952
12953
12954
12955
12956
12957
12958
12959
12960
12961
12962
12963
12964
12965
12966
12967
12968
12969
12970
12971
12972
12973
12974
12975
12976
12977
12978
12979
12980
12981
12982
12983
12984
12985
12986
12987
12988
12989
12990
12991
12992
12993
12994
12995
12996
12997
12998
12999
13000
13001
13002
13003
13004
13005
13006
13007
13008
13009
13010
13011
13012
13013
13014
13015
13016
13017
13018
13019
13020
13021
13022
13023
13024
13025
13026
13027
13028
13029
13030
13031
13032
13033
13034
13035
13036
13037
13038
13039
13040
13041
13042
13043
13044
13045
13046
13047
13048
13049
13050
13051
13052
13053
13054
13055
13056
13057
13058
13059
13060
13061
13062
13063
13064
13065
13066
13067
13068
13069
13070
13071
13072
13073
13074
13075
13076
13077
13078
13079
13080
13081
13082
13083
13084
13085
13086
13087
13088
13089
13090
13091
13092
13093
13094
13095
13096
13097
13098
13099
13100
13101
13102
13103
13104
13105
13106
13107
13108
13109
13110
13111
13112
13113
13114
13115
13116
13117
13118
13119
13120
13121
13122
13123
13124
13125
13126
13127
13128
13129
13130
13131
13132
13133
13134
13135
13136
13137
13138
13139
13140
13141
13142
13143
13144
13145
13146
13147
13148
13149
13150
13151
13152
13153
13154
13155
13156
13157
13158
13159
13160
13161
13162
13163
13164
13165
13166
13167
13168
13169
13170
13171
13172
13173
13174
13175
13176
13177
13178
13179
13180
13181
13182
13183
13184
13185
13186
13187
13188
13189
13190
13191
13192
13193
13194
13195
13196
13197
13198
13199
13200
13201
13202
13203
13204
13205
13206
13207
13208
13209
13210
13211
13212
13213
13214
13215
13216
13217
13218
13219
13220
13221
13222
13223
13224
13225
13226
13227
13228
13229
13230
13231
13232
13233
13234
13235
13236
13237
13238
13239
13240
13241
13242
13243
13244
13245
13246
13247
13248
13249
13250
13251
13252
13253
13254
13255
13256
13257
13258
13259
13260
13261
13262
13263
13264
13265
13266
13267
13268
13269
13270
13271
13272
13273
13274
13275
13276
13277
13278
13279
13280
13281
13282
13283
13284
13285
13286
13287
13288
13289
13290
13291
13292
13293
13294
13295
13296
13297
13298
13299
13300
13301
13302
13303
13304
13305
13306
13307
13308
13309
13310
13311
13312
13313
13314
13315
13316
13317
13318
13319
13320
13321
13322
13323
13324
13325
13326
13327
13328
13329
13330
13331
13332
13333
13334
13335
13336
13337
13338
13339
13340
13341
13342
13343
13344
13345
13346
13347
13348
13349
13350
13351
13352
13353
13354
13355
13356
13357
13358
13359
13360
13361
13362
13363
13364
13365
13366
13367
13368
13369
13370
13371
13372
13373
13374
13375
13376
13377
13378
13379
13380
13381
13382
13383
13384
13385
13386
13387
13388
13389
13390
13391
13392
13393
13394
13395
13396
13397
13398
13399
13400
13401
13402
13403
13404
13405
13406
13407
13408
13409
13410
13411
13412
13413
13414
13415
13416
13417
13418
13419
13420
13421
13422
13423
13424
13425
13426
13427
13428
13429
13430
13431
13432
13433
13434
13435
13436
13437
13438
13439
13440
13441
13442
13443
13444
13445
13446
13447
13448
13449
13450
13451
13452
13453
13454
13455
13456
13457
13458
13459
13460
13461
13462
13463
13464
13465
13466
13467
13468
13469
13470
13471
13472
13473
13474
13475
13476
13477
13478
13479
13480
13481
13482
13483
13484
13485
13486
13487
13488
13489
13490
13491
13492
13493
13494
13495
13496
13497
13498
13499
13500
13501
13502
13503
13504
13505
13506
13507
13508
13509
13510
13511
13512
13513
13514
13515
13516
13517
13518
13519
13520
13521
13522
13523
13524
13525
13526
13527
13528
13529
13530
13531
13532
13533
13534
13535
13536
13537
13538
13539
13540
13541
13542
13543
13544
13545
13546
13547
13548
13549
13550
13551
13552
13553
13554
13555
13556
13557
13558
13559
13560
13561
13562
13563
13564
13565
13566
13567
13568
13569
13570
13571
13572
13573
13574
13575
13576
13577
13578
13579
13580
13581
13582
13583
13584
13585
13586
13587
13588
13589
13590
13591
13592
13593
13594
13595
13596
13597
13598
13599
13600
13601
13602
13603
13604
13605
13606
13607
13608
13609
13610
13611
13612
13613
13614
13615
13616
13617
13618
13619
13620
13621
13622
13623
13624
13625
13626
13627
13628
13629
13630
13631
13632
13633
13634
13635
13636
13637
13638
13639
13640
13641
13642
13643
13644
13645
13646
13647
13648
13649
13650
13651
13652
13653
13654
13655
13656
13657
13658
13659
13660
13661
13662
13663
13664
13665
13666
13667
13668
13669
13670
13671
13672
13673
13674
13675
13676
13677
13678
13679
13680
13681
13682
13683
13684
13685
13686
13687
13688
13689
13690
13691
13692
13693
13694
13695
13696
13697
13698
13699
13700
13701
13702
13703
13704
13705
13706
13707
13708
13709
13710
13711
13712
13713
13714
13715
13716
13717
13718
13719
13720
13721
13722
13723
13724
13725
13726
13727
13728
13729
13730
13731
13732
13733
13734
13735
13736
13737
13738
13739
13740
13741
13742
13743
13744
13745
13746
13747
13748
13749
13750
13751
13752
13753
13754
13755
13756
13757
13758
13759
13760
13761
13762
13763
13764
13765
13766
13767
13768
13769
13770
13771
13772
13773
13774
13775
13776
13777
13778
13779
13780
13781
13782
13783
13784
13785
13786
13787
13788
13789
13790
13791
13792
13793
13794
13795
13796
13797
13798
13799
13800
13801
13802
13803
13804
13805
13806
13807
13808
13809
13810
13811
13812
13813
13814
13815
13816
13817
13818
13819
13820
13821
13822
13823
13824
13825
13826
13827
13828
13829
13830
13831
13832
13833
13834
13835
13836
13837
13838
13839
13840
13841
13842
13843
13844
13845
13846
13847
13848
13849
13850
13851
13852
13853
13854
13855
13856
13857
13858
13859
13860
13861
13862
13863
13864
13865
13866
13867
13868
13869
13870
13871
13872
13873
13874
13875
13876
13877
13878
13879
13880
13881
13882
13883
13884
13885
13886
13887
13888
13889
13890
13891
13892
13893
13894
13895
13896
13897
13898
13899
13900
13901
13902
13903
13904
13905
13906
13907
13908
13909
13910
13911
13912
13913
13914
13915
13916
13917
13918
13919
13920
13921
13922
13923
13924
13925
13926
13927
13928
13929
13930
13931
13932
13933
13934
13935
13936
13937
13938
13939
13940
13941
13942
13943
13944
13945
13946
13947
13948
13949
13950
13951
13952
13953
13954
13955
13956
13957
13958
13959
13960
13961
13962
13963
13964
13965
13966
13967
13968
13969
13970
13971
13972
13973
13974
13975
13976
13977
13978
13979
13980
13981
13982
13983
13984
13985
13986
13987
13988
13989
13990
13991
13992
13993
13994
13995
13996
13997
13998
13999
14000
14001
14002
14003
14004
14005
14006
14007
14008
14009
14010
14011
14012
14013
14014
14015
14016
14017
14018
14019
14020
14021
14022
14023
14024
14025
14026
14027
14028
14029
14030
14031
14032
14033
14034
14035
14036
14037
14038
14039
14040
14041
14042
14043
14044
14045
14046
14047
14048
14049
14050
14051
14052
14053
14054
14055
14056
14057
14058
14059
14060
14061
14062
14063
14064
14065
14066
14067
14068
14069
14070
14071
14072
14073
14074
14075
14076
14077
14078
14079
14080
14081
14082
14083
14084
14085
14086
14087
14088
14089
14090
14091
14092
14093
14094
14095
14096
14097
14098
14099
14100
14101
14102
14103
14104
14105
14106
14107
14108
14109
14110
14111
14112
14113
14114
14115
14116
14117
14118
14119
14120
14121
14122
14123
14124
14125
14126
14127
14128
14129
14130
14131
14132
14133
14134
14135
14136
14137
14138
14139
14140
14141
14142
14143
14144
14145
14146
14147
14148
14149
14150
14151
14152
14153
14154
14155
14156
14157
14158
14159
14160
14161
14162
14163
14164
14165
14166
14167
14168
14169
14170
14171
14172
14173
14174
14175
14176
14177
14178
14179
14180
14181
14182
14183
14184
14185
14186
14187
14188
14189
14190
14191
14192
14193
14194
14195
14196
14197
14198
14199
14200
14201
14202
14203
14204
14205
14206
14207
14208
14209
14210
14211
14212
14213
14214
14215
14216
14217
14218
14219
14220
14221
14222
14223
14224
14225
14226
14227
14228
14229
14230
14231
14232
14233
14234
14235
14236
14237
14238
14239
14240
14241
14242
14243
14244
14245
14246
14247
14248
14249
14250
14251
14252
14253
14254
14255
14256
14257
14258
14259
14260
14261
14262
14263
14264
14265
14266
14267
14268
14269
14270
14271
14272
14273
14274
14275
14276
14277
14278
14279
14280
14281
14282
14283
14284
14285
14286
14287
14288
14289
14290
14291
14292
14293
14294
14295
14296
14297
14298
14299
14300
14301
14302
14303
14304
14305
14306
14307
14308
14309
14310
14311
14312
14313
14314
14315
14316
14317
14318
14319
14320
14321
14322
14323
14324
14325
14326
14327
14328
14329
14330
14331
14332
14333
14334
14335
14336
14337
14338
14339
14340
14341
14342
14343
14344
14345
14346
14347
14348
14349
14350
14351
14352
14353
14354
14355
14356
14357
14358
14359
14360
14361
14362
14363
14364
14365
14366
14367
14368
14369
14370
14371
14372
14373
14374
14375
14376
14377
14378
14379
14380
14381
14382
14383
14384
14385
14386
14387
14388
14389
14390
14391
14392
14393
14394
14395
14396
14397
14398
14399
14400
14401
14402
14403
14404
14405
14406
14407
14408
14409
14410
14411
14412
14413
14414
14415
14416
14417
14418
14419
14420
14421
14422
14423
14424
14425
14426
14427
14428
14429
14430
14431
14432
14433
14434
14435
14436
14437
14438
14439
14440
14441
14442
14443
14444
14445
14446
14447
14448
14449
14450
14451
14452
14453
14454
14455
14456
14457
14458
14459
14460
14461
14462
14463
14464
14465
14466
14467
14468
14469
14470
14471
14472
14473
14474
14475
14476
14477
14478
14479
14480
14481
14482
14483
14484
14485
14486
14487
14488
14489
14490
14491
14492
14493
14494
14495
14496
14497
14498
14499
14500
14501
14502
14503
14504
14505
14506
14507
14508
14509
14510
14511
14512
14513
14514
14515
14516
14517
14518
14519
14520
14521
14522
14523
14524
14525
14526
14527
14528
14529
14530
14531
14532
14533
14534
14535
14536
14537
14538
14539
14540
14541
14542
14543
14544
14545
14546
14547
14548
14549
14550
14551
14552
14553
14554
14555
14556
14557
14558
14559
14560
14561
14562
14563
14564
14565
14566
14567
14568
14569
14570
14571
14572
14573
14574
14575
14576
14577
14578
14579
14580
14581
14582
14583
14584
14585
14586
14587
14588
14589
14590
14591
14592
14593
14594
14595
14596
14597
14598
14599
14600
14601
14602
14603
14604
14605
14606
14607
14608
14609
14610
14611
14612
14613
14614
14615
14616
14617
14618
14619
14620
14621
14622
14623
14624
14625
14626
14627
14628
14629
14630
14631
14632
14633
14634
14635
14636
14637
14638
14639
14640
14641
14642
14643
14644
14645
14646
14647
14648
14649
14650
14651
14652
14653
14654
14655
14656
14657
14658
14659
14660
14661
14662
14663
14664
14665
14666
14667
14668
14669
14670
14671
14672
14673
14674
14675
14676
14677
14678
14679
14680
14681
14682
14683
14684
14685
14686
14687
14688
14689
14690
14691
14692
14693
14694
14695
14696
14697
14698
14699
14700
14701
14702
14703
14704
14705
14706
14707
14708
14709
14710
14711
14712
14713
14714
14715
14716
14717
14718
14719
14720
14721
14722
14723
14724
14725
14726
14727
14728
14729
14730
14731
14732
14733
14734
14735
14736
14737
14738
14739
14740
14741
14742
14743
14744
14745
14746
14747
14748
14749
14750
14751
14752
14753
14754
14755
14756
14757
14758
14759
14760
14761
14762
14763
14764
14765
14766
14767
14768
14769
14770
14771
14772
14773
14774
14775
14776
14777
14778
14779
14780
14781
14782
14783
14784
14785
14786
14787
14788
14789
14790
14791
14792
14793
14794
14795
14796
14797
14798
14799
14800
14801
14802
14803
14804
14805
14806
14807
14808
14809
14810
14811
14812
14813
14814
14815
14816
14817
14818
14819
14820
14821
14822
14823
14824
14825
14826
14827
14828
14829
14830
14831
14832
14833
14834
14835
14836
14837
14838
14839
14840
14841
14842
14843
14844
14845
14846
14847
14848
14849
14850
14851
14852
14853
14854
14855
14856
14857
14858
14859
14860
14861
14862
14863
14864
14865
14866
14867
14868
14869
14870
14871
14872
14873
14874
14875
14876
14877
14878
14879
14880
14881
14882
14883
14884
14885
14886
14887
14888
14889
14890
14891
14892
14893
14894
14895
14896
14897
14898
14899
14900
14901
14902
14903
14904
14905
14906
14907
14908
14909
14910
14911
14912
14913
14914
14915
14916
14917
14918
14919
14920
14921
14922
14923
14924
14925
14926
14927
14928
14929
14930
14931
14932
14933
14934
14935
14936
14937
14938
14939
14940
14941
14942
14943
14944
14945
14946
14947
14948
14949
14950
14951
14952
14953
14954
14955
14956
14957
14958
14959
14960
14961
14962
14963
14964
14965
14966
14967
14968
14969
14970
14971
14972
14973
14974
14975
14976
14977
14978
14979
14980
14981
14982
14983
14984
14985
14986
14987
14988
14989
14990
14991
14992
14993
14994
14995
14996
14997
14998
14999
15000
15001
15002
15003
15004
15005
15006
15007
15008
15009
15010
15011
15012
15013
15014
15015
15016
15017
15018
15019
15020
15021
15022
15023
15024
15025
15026
15027
15028
15029
15030
15031
15032
15033
15034
15035
15036
15037
15038
15039
15040
15041
15042
15043
15044
15045
15046
15047
15048
15049
15050
15051
15052
15053
15054
15055
15056
15057
15058
15059
15060
15061
15062
15063
15064
15065
15066
15067
15068
15069
15070
15071
15072
15073
15074
15075
15076
15077
15078
15079
15080
15081
15082
15083
15084
15085
15086
15087
15088
15089
15090
15091
15092
15093
15094
15095
15096
15097
15098
15099
15100
15101
15102
15103
15104
15105
15106
15107
15108
15109
15110
15111
15112
15113
15114
15115
15116
15117
15118
15119
15120
15121
15122
15123
15124
15125
15126
15127
15128
15129
15130
15131
15132
15133
15134
15135
15136
15137
15138
15139
15140
15141
15142
15143
15144
15145
15146
15147
15148
15149
15150
15151
15152
15153
15154
15155
15156
15157
15158
15159
15160
15161
15162
15163
15164
15165
15166
15167
15168
15169
15170
15171
15172
15173
15174
15175
15176
15177
15178
15179
15180
15181
15182
15183
15184
15185
15186
15187
15188
15189
15190
15191
15192
15193
15194
15195
15196
15197
15198
15199
15200
15201
15202
15203
15204
15205
15206
15207
15208
15209
15210
15211
15212
15213
15214
15215
15216
15217
15218
15219
15220
15221
15222
15223
15224
15225
15226
15227
15228
15229
15230
15231
15232
15233
15234
15235
15236
15237
15238
15239
15240
15241
15242
15243
15244
15245
15246
15247
15248
15249
15250
15251
15252
15253
15254
15255
15256
15257
15258
15259
15260
15261
15262
15263
15264
15265
15266
15267
15268
15269
15270
15271
15272
15273
15274
15275
15276
15277
15278
15279
15280
15281
15282
15283
15284
15285
15286
15287
15288
15289
15290
15291
15292
15293
15294
15295
15296
15297
15298
15299
15300
15301
15302
15303
15304
15305
15306
15307
15308
15309
15310
15311
15312
15313
15314
15315
15316
15317
15318
15319
15320
15321
15322
15323
15324
15325
15326
15327
15328
15329
15330
15331
15332
15333
15334
15335
15336
15337
15338
15339
15340
15341
15342
15343
15344
15345
15346
15347
15348
15349
15350
15351
15352
15353
15354
15355
15356
15357
15358
15359
15360
15361
15362
15363
15364
15365
15366
15367
15368
15369
15370
15371
15372
15373
15374
15375
15376
15377
15378
15379
15380
15381
15382
15383
15384
15385
15386
15387
15388
15389
15390
15391
15392
15393
15394
15395
15396
15397
15398
15399
15400
15401
15402
15403
15404
15405
15406
15407
15408
15409
15410
15411
15412
15413
15414
15415
15416
15417
15418
15419
15420
15421
15422
15423
15424
15425
15426
15427
15428
15429
15430
15431
15432
15433
15434
15435
15436
15437
15438
15439
15440
15441
15442
15443
15444
15445
15446
15447
15448
15449
15450
15451
15452
15453
15454
15455
15456
15457
15458
15459
15460
15461
15462
15463
15464
15465
15466
15467
15468
15469
15470
15471
15472
15473
15474
15475
15476
15477
15478
15479
15480
15481
15482
15483
15484
15485
15486
15487
15488
15489
15490
15491
15492
15493
15494
15495
15496
15497
15498
15499
15500
15501
15502
15503
15504
15505
15506
15507
15508
15509
15510
15511
15512
15513
15514
15515
15516
15517
15518
15519
15520
15521
15522
15523
15524
15525
15526
15527
15528
15529
15530
15531
15532
15533
15534
15535
15536
15537
15538
15539
15540
15541
15542
15543
15544
15545
15546
15547
15548
15549
15550
15551
15552
15553
15554
15555
15556
15557
15558
15559
15560
15561
15562
15563
15564
15565
15566
15567
15568
15569
15570
15571
15572
15573
15574
15575
15576
15577
15578
15579
15580
15581
15582
15583
15584
15585
15586
15587
15588
15589
15590
15591
15592
15593
15594
15595
15596
15597
15598
15599
15600
15601
15602
15603
15604
15605
15606
15607
15608
15609
15610
15611
15612
15613
15614
15615
15616
15617
15618
15619
15620
15621
15622
15623
15624
15625
15626
15627
15628
15629
15630
15631
15632
15633
15634
15635
15636
15637
15638
15639
15640
15641
15642
15643
15644
15645
15646
15647
15648
15649
15650
15651
15652
15653
15654
15655
15656
15657
15658
15659
15660
15661
15662
15663
15664
15665
15666
15667
15668
15669
15670
15671
15672
15673
15674
15675
15676
15677
15678
15679
15680
15681
15682
15683
15684
15685
15686
15687
15688
15689
15690
15691
15692
15693
15694
15695
15696
15697
15698
15699
15700
15701
15702
15703
15704
15705
15706
15707
15708
15709
15710
15711
15712
15713
15714
15715
15716
15717
15718
15719
15720
15721
15722
15723
15724
15725
15726
15727
15728
15729
15730
15731
15732
15733
15734
15735
15736
15737
15738
15739
15740
15741
15742
15743
15744
15745
15746
15747
15748
15749
15750
15751
15752
15753
15754
15755
15756
15757
15758
15759
15760
15761
15762
15763
15764
15765
15766
15767
15768
15769
15770
15771
15772
15773
15774
15775
15776
15777
15778
15779
15780
15781
15782
15783
15784
15785
15786
15787
15788
15789
15790
15791
15792
15793
15794
15795
15796
15797
15798
15799
15800
15801
15802
15803
15804
15805
15806
15807
15808
15809
15810
15811
15812
15813
15814
15815
15816
15817
15818
15819
15820
15821
15822
15823
15824
15825
15826
15827
15828
15829
15830
15831
15832
15833
15834
15835
15836
15837
15838
15839
15840
15841
15842
15843
15844
15845
15846
15847
15848
15849
15850
15851
15852
15853
15854
15855
15856
15857
15858
15859
15860
15861
15862
15863
15864
15865
15866
15867
15868
15869
15870
15871
15872
15873
15874
15875
15876
15877
15878
15879
15880
15881
15882
15883
15884
15885
15886
15887
15888
15889
15890
15891
15892
15893
15894
15895
15896
15897
15898
15899
15900
15901
15902
15903
15904
15905
15906
15907
15908
15909
15910
15911
15912
15913
15914
15915
15916
15917
15918
15919
15920
15921
15922
15923
15924
15925
15926
15927
15928
15929
15930
15931
15932
15933
15934
15935
15936
15937
15938
15939
15940
15941
15942
15943
15944
15945
15946
15947
15948
15949
15950
15951
15952
15953
15954
15955
15956
15957
15958
15959
15960
15961
15962
15963
15964
15965
15966
15967
15968
15969
15970
15971
15972
15973
15974
15975
15976
15977
15978
15979
15980
15981
15982
15983
15984
15985
15986
15987
15988
15989
15990
15991
15992
15993
15994
15995
15996
15997
15998
15999
16000
16001
16002
16003
16004
16005
16006
16007
16008
16009
16010
16011
16012
16013
16014
16015
16016
16017
16018
16019
16020
16021
16022
16023
16024
16025
16026
16027
16028
16029
16030
16031
16032
16033
16034
16035
16036
16037
16038
16039
16040
16041
16042
16043
16044
16045
16046
16047
16048
16049
16050
16051
16052
16053
16054
16055
16056
16057
16058
16059
16060
16061
16062
16063
16064
16065
16066
16067
16068
16069
16070
16071
16072
16073
16074
16075
16076
16077
16078
16079
16080
16081
16082
16083
16084
16085
16086
16087
16088
16089
16090
16091
16092
16093
16094
16095
16096
16097
16098
16099
16100
16101
16102
16103
16104
16105
16106
16107
16108
16109
16110
16111
16112
16113
16114
16115
16116
16117
16118
16119
16120
16121
16122
16123
16124
16125
16126
16127
16128
16129
16130
16131
16132
16133
16134
16135
16136
16137
16138
16139
16140
16141
16142
16143
16144
16145
16146
16147
16148
16149
16150
16151
16152
16153
16154
16155
16156
16157
16158
16159
16160
16161
16162
16163
16164
16165
16166
16167
16168
16169
16170
16171
16172
16173
16174
16175
16176
16177
16178
16179
16180
16181
16182
16183
16184
16185
16186
16187
16188
16189
16190
16191
16192
16193
16194
16195
16196
16197
16198
16199
16200
16201
16202
16203
16204
16205
16206
16207
16208
16209
16210
16211
16212
16213
16214
16215
16216
16217
16218
16219
16220
16221
16222
16223
16224
16225
16226
16227
16228
16229
16230
16231
16232
16233
16234
16235
16236
16237
16238
16239
16240
16241
16242
16243
16244
16245
16246
16247
16248
16249
16250
16251
16252
16253
16254
16255
16256
16257
16258
16259
16260
16261
16262
16263
16264
16265
16266
16267
16268
16269
16270
16271
16272
16273
16274
16275
16276
16277
16278
16279
16280
16281
16282
16283
16284
16285
16286
16287
16288
16289
16290
16291
16292
16293
16294
16295
16296
16297
16298
16299
16300
16301
16302
16303
16304
16305
16306
16307
16308
16309
16310
16311
16312
16313
16314
16315
16316
16317
16318
16319
16320
16321
16322
16323
16324
16325
16326
16327
16328
16329
16330
16331
16332
16333
16334
16335
16336
16337
16338
16339
16340
16341
16342
16343
16344
16345
16346
16347
16348
16349
16350
16351
16352
16353
16354
16355
16356
16357
16358
16359
16360
16361
16362
16363
16364
16365
16366
16367
16368
16369
16370
16371
16372
16373
16374
16375
16376
16377
16378
16379
16380
16381
16382
16383
16384
16385
16386
16387
16388
16389
16390
16391
16392
16393
16394
16395
16396
16397
16398
16399
16400
16401
16402
16403
16404
16405
16406
16407
16408
16409
16410
16411
16412
16413
16414
16415
16416
16417
16418
16419
16420
16421
16422
16423
16424
16425
16426
16427
16428
16429
16430
16431
16432
16433
16434
16435
16436
16437
16438
16439
16440
16441
16442
16443
16444
16445
16446
16447
16448
16449
16450
16451
16452
16453
16454
16455
16456
16457
16458
16459
16460
16461
16462
16463
16464
16465
16466
16467
16468
16469
16470
16471
16472
16473
16474
16475
16476
16477
16478
16479
16480
16481
16482
16483
16484
16485
16486
16487
16488
16489
16490
16491
16492
16493
16494
16495
16496
16497
16498
16499
16500
16501
16502
16503
16504
16505
16506
16507
16508
16509
16510
16511
16512
16513
16514
16515
16516
16517
16518
16519
16520
16521
16522
16523
16524
16525
16526
16527
16528
16529
16530
16531
16532
16533
16534
16535
16536
16537
16538
16539
16540
16541
16542
16543
16544
16545
16546
16547
16548
16549
16550
16551
16552
16553
16554
16555
16556
16557
16558
16559
16560
16561
16562
16563
16564
16565
16566
16567
16568
16569
16570
16571
16572
16573
16574
16575
16576
16577
16578
16579
16580
16581
16582
16583
16584
16585
16586
16587
16588
16589
16590
16591
16592
16593
16594
16595
16596
16597
16598
16599
16600
16601
16602
16603
16604
16605
16606
16607
16608
16609
16610
16611
16612
16613
16614
16615
16616
16617
16618
16619
16620
16621
16622
16623
16624
16625
16626
16627
16628
16629
16630
16631
16632
16633
16634
16635
16636
16637
16638
16639
16640
16641
16642
16643
16644
16645
16646
16647
16648
16649
16650
16651
16652
16653
16654
16655
16656
16657
16658
16659
16660
16661
16662
16663
16664
16665
16666
16667
16668
16669
16670
16671
16672
16673
16674
16675
16676
16677
16678
16679
16680
16681
16682
16683
16684
16685
16686
16687
16688
16689
16690
16691
16692
16693
16694
16695
16696
16697
16698
16699
16700
16701
16702
16703
16704
16705
16706
16707
16708
16709
16710
16711
16712
16713
16714
16715
16716
16717
16718
16719
16720
16721
16722
16723
16724
16725
16726
16727
16728
16729
16730
16731
16732
16733
16734
16735
16736
16737
16738
16739
16740
16741
16742
16743
16744
16745
16746
16747
16748
16749
16750
16751
16752
16753
16754
16755
16756
16757
16758
16759
16760
16761
16762
16763
16764
16765
16766
16767
16768
16769
16770
16771
16772
16773
16774
16775
16776
16777
16778
16779
16780
16781
16782
16783
16784
16785
16786
16787
16788
16789
16790
16791
16792
16793
16794
16795
16796
16797
16798
16799
16800
16801
16802
16803
16804
16805
16806
16807
16808
16809
16810
16811
16812
16813
16814
16815
16816
16817
16818
16819
16820
16821
16822
16823
16824
16825
16826
16827
16828
16829
16830
16831
16832
16833
16834
16835
16836
16837
16838
16839
16840
16841
16842
16843
16844
16845
16846
16847
16848
16849
16850
16851
16852
16853
16854
16855
16856
16857
16858
16859
16860
16861
16862
16863
16864
16865
16866
16867
16868
16869
16870
16871
16872
16873
16874
16875
16876
16877
16878
16879
16880
16881
16882
16883
16884
16885
16886
16887
16888
16889
16890
16891
16892
16893
16894
16895
16896
16897
16898
16899
16900
16901
16902
16903
16904
16905
16906
16907
16908
16909
16910
16911
16912
16913
16914
16915
16916
16917
16918
16919
16920
16921
16922
16923
16924
16925
16926
16927
16928
16929
16930
16931
16932
16933
16934
16935
16936
16937
16938
16939
16940
16941
16942
16943
16944
16945
16946
16947
16948
16949
16950
16951
16952
16953
16954
16955
16956
16957
16958
16959
16960
16961
16962
16963
16964
16965
16966
16967
16968
16969
16970
16971
16972
16973
16974
16975
16976
16977
16978
16979
16980
16981
16982
16983
16984
16985
16986
16987
16988
16989
16990
16991
16992
16993
16994
16995
16996
16997
16998
16999
17000
17001
17002
17003
17004
17005
17006
17007
17008
17009
17010
17011
17012
17013
17014
17015
17016
17017
17018
17019
17020
17021
17022
17023
17024
17025
17026
17027
17028
17029
17030
17031
17032
17033
17034
17035
17036
17037
17038
17039
17040
17041
17042
17043
17044
17045
17046
17047
17048
17049
17050
17051
17052
17053
17054
17055
17056
17057
17058
17059
17060
17061
17062
17063
17064
17065
17066
17067
17068
17069
17070
17071
17072
17073
17074
17075
17076
17077
17078
17079
17080
17081
17082
17083
17084
17085
17086
17087
17088
17089
17090
17091
17092
17093
17094
17095
17096
17097
17098
17099
17100
17101
17102
17103
17104
17105
17106
17107
17108
17109
17110
17111
17112
17113
17114
17115
17116
17117
17118
17119
17120
17121
17122
17123
17124
17125
17126
17127
17128
17129
17130
17131
17132
17133
17134
17135
17136
17137
17138
17139
17140
17141
17142
17143
17144
17145
17146
17147
17148
17149
17150
17151
17152
17153
17154
17155
17156
17157
17158
17159
17160
17161
17162
17163
17164
17165
17166
17167
17168
17169
17170
17171
17172
17173
17174
17175
17176
17177
17178
17179
17180
17181
17182
17183
17184
17185
17186
17187
17188
17189
17190
17191
17192
17193
17194
17195
17196
17197
17198
17199
17200
17201
17202
17203
17204
17205
17206
17207
17208
17209
17210
17211
17212
17213
17214
17215
17216
17217
17218
17219
17220
17221
17222
17223
17224
17225
17226
17227
17228
17229
17230
17231
17232
17233
17234
17235
17236
17237
17238
17239
17240
17241
17242
17243
17244
17245
17246
17247
17248
17249
17250
17251
17252
17253
17254
17255
17256
17257
17258
17259
17260
17261
17262
17263
17264
17265
17266
17267
17268
17269
17270
17271
17272
17273
17274
17275
17276
17277
17278
17279
17280
17281
17282
17283
17284
17285
17286
17287
17288
17289
17290
17291
17292
17293
17294
17295
17296
17297
17298
17299
17300
17301
17302
17303
17304
17305
17306
17307
17308
17309
17310
17311
17312
17313
17314
17315
17316
17317
17318
17319
17320
17321
17322
17323
17324
17325
17326
17327
17328
17329
17330
17331
17332
17333
17334
17335
17336
17337
17338
17339
17340
17341
17342
17343
17344
17345
17346
17347
17348
17349
17350
17351
17352
17353
17354
17355
17356
17357
17358
17359
17360
17361
17362
17363
17364
17365
17366
17367
17368
17369
17370
17371
17372
17373
17374
17375
17376
17377
17378
17379
17380
17381
17382
17383
17384
17385
17386
17387
17388
17389
17390
17391
17392
17393
17394
17395
17396
17397
17398
17399
17400
17401
17402
17403
17404
17405
17406
17407
17408
17409
17410
17411
17412
17413
17414
17415
17416
17417
17418
17419
17420
17421
17422
17423
17424
17425
17426
17427
17428
17429
17430
17431
17432
17433
17434
17435
17436
17437
17438
17439
17440
17441
17442
17443
17444
17445
17446
17447
17448
17449
17450
17451
17452
17453
17454
17455
17456
17457
17458
17459
17460
17461
17462
17463
17464
17465
17466
17467
17468
17469
17470
17471
17472
17473
17474
17475
17476
17477
17478
17479
17480
17481
17482
17483
17484
17485
17486
17487

<!DOCTYPE html>
<html lang="en">
<head>
<title>The Project Gutenberg Ebook of Travels in Ethiopia by George
Alexander Hoskins</title>
<meta charset="utf-8">
<link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover">
<style>
body {
    margin-left: 10%;
    margin-right: 10%;
}
h1
{
  text-align: center;
  font-weight: normal;
  font-size: 100%;
  line-height: 2;
  margin-top: 4em;
  margin-bottom: 0;
  clear: both;
}
@media screen and (max-width: 1500px) {
h1 {
  line-height: 1.6;
}
}
.x-ebookmaker h1 {
  margin-top: 0.5em;
  line-height: 1.6;
}
h2 {
  font-size: 100%;
  text-align: center;
  font-weight: normal;
  line-height: 1.1;
  margin-top: 2em;
  margin-bottom: 1.5em;
  page-break-before: always;
  clear: both;
}
h2.nopb {
  page-break-before: avoid;
}
h3 {
  font-size: 80%;
  margin-top: 2em;
  margin-bottom: 1em;
  font-weight: normal;
  text-align: center;
  page-break-before: avoid;
  clear: both;
}
hr.chap {
    color: Gray;
    background-color: Gray;
    width: 65%;
    margin-top: 1em;
    margin-bottom: 2em;
    margin-left: auto;
    margin-right: auto;
    clear: both;
}
hr.decor {
    margin-left: auto;
    margin-right: auto;
    clear: both;
}
hr.spaced2 {
  margin-top: 1em;
  margin-bottom: 1em;
}
hr.space-above15 {
  margin-top: 1.5em;
}
hr.space-below15 {
  margin-bottom: 1.5em;
}
hr.spaced3 {
  margin-top: 1em;
  margin-bottom: 1.5em;
}
.no-wrap {
  white-space: nowrap;
}
.pb {
   page-break-before: always;
}
.x-ebookmaker hr.chap { display: none; visibility: hidden; }
.spaced15 {
  line-height: 1.5;
}
.spaced2 {
  line-height: 2;
}
.spaced3 {
  line-height: 3;
}
.space-above {
  margin-top: 4em;
}
.space-above2 {
  margin-top: 2em;
}
.space-above15 {
  margin-top: 1.5em;
}
.letter-spaced0075 {
  letter-spacing: 0.075em;
}
.letter-spaced {
  letter-spacing: 0.05em;
}
.letter-spaced01 {
  letter-spacing: 0.1em;
}
.letter-spaced02 {
  letter-spacing: 0.2em;
}
.letter-spaced03 {
  letter-spacing: 0.3em;
}
.letter-spaced08 {
  letter-spacing: 0.8em;
}
.word-spaced03 {
  word-spacing: 0.3em;
}
.word-spaced02 {
  word-spacing: 0.2em;
}
.word-spaced2em {
  word-spacing: 2em;
}
.word-spaced3em {
  word-spacing: 3em;
}
.nind {
  text-indent: 0;
}
.hang1 {
    text-indent: -1em;
    padding-left: 1em;
    }
.hang2 {
    text-indent: -1em;
    padding-left: 2em;
    }
.publisher {
  margin-top: 2.5em;
  font-size: 100%;
  line-height: 1.7;
  text-align: center;
  letter-spacing: 0.05em;
  text-indent: 0;
}
p {
    text-align: justify;
    text-indent: 1.5em;
    line-height: 1.2;
    max-width: 1200px;
    margin: auto;
    margin-top: .51em;
    margin-bottom: .49em;
}
.xxlarge  {
    font-size: 200%;
}
.xlarge  {
    font-size: 150%;
}
.large120   {font-size: 120%;}
.large   {font-size: 110%;}
.less95  {font-size: 95%;}
.less    {font-size: 90%;}
.less85  {font-size: 85%;}
.med     {font-size: 80%;}
.small   {font-size: 75%;}
.vsmall  {font-size: 70%;}
.tiny    {font-size: 65%;}
.bold  {font-weight: bold;}
.linethrough {
  text-decoration: line-through;
}
.sc {
    font-variant: small-caps;
    }
.sc2 {
    font-variant: small-caps;
    font-size: 80%;
    }
.copt {
    }
.gothic {
    font-family: "Old English Text MT", "Old English", serif
    }
.center {
    text-align: center;
    text-indent: 0;
    }
.pad1 {
    padding-left: 1em
    }
.pad2 {
    padding-left: 2em
    }
.pad-right2 {
    padding-right: 2em
    }
.right {
    text-align: right;
    }
.sch {
    text-indent: 0;
    text-align: center;
    font-size: 90%;
    margin-top: 1em;
    margin-bottom: 1em;
}
.csum {
    padding-left: 1.5em;
    text-indent: -1.5em;
    font-size: 75%;
    line-height: 1.4;
    margin-bottom: 2em;
}
.footnotes {
   border: dashed 1px;
   max-width: 1200px;
   margin: auto;
}
.footnote {
   margin-top: 0.5em;
   margin-left: 10%;
   margin-right: 5%;
   font-size: 90%;
}
.footnote .label  {
   float: left;
   margin-left: -12%;
   text-align: right;
}
.subft {
   margin-top: 0.5em;
   margin-left: 20%;
   margin-right: 20%;
   font-size: 90%;
}
.subft .label  {
   float: left;
   margin-left: -12%;
   text-align: right;
}
.fnanchor {
    vertical-align: super;
    font-size: .8em;
    text-decoration: none;
    font-style: normal;
    font-weight: normal;
    letter-spacing: normal;
}
.pagenum {
    position: absolute;
    left: 92%;
    font-size: small;
    text-align: right;
    font-style: normal;
    font-weight: normal;
    font-variant: normal;
    letter-spacing: normal;
    color: silver;
    text-indent: 0;
}
.linegrp-container {
    text-align: center
    }
.linegrp {
    display: inline-block;
    text-align: left;
    font-size: 90%;
    }
.linegrp .group {
    margin: 1em 0 1em 0
    }
.linegrp .line {
    padding-left: 3em;
    line-height: 1.4em;
    }
.linegrp .indent0 {
    text-indent: -3em
    }
.linegrp .indent2 {
    text-indent: -2em
    }
.linegrp .indent6 {
    text-indent: 4em
    }
.linegrp .indent8 {
    text-indent: 6.5em
    }
div.margins {
  width: 1200px;
  max-width: 100%;
  margin: auto;
}
div.page {
  text-align: center;
  page-break-before: always;
}
div.dedic {
  width: 35em;
  max-width: 100%;
  margin: auto;
}
div.dedic > p {
  line-height: 1.6;
}
@media screen and (max-width: 1500px) {
div.dedic > p {
  font-size: 90%;
  line-height: 1.5;
}
}
.pad8pc {
  margin-left: 8%;
}
.ind11pc {
  text-indent: 11%;
}
.pad15pc {
  margin-left: 15%;
}
.pad26pc {
  margin-left: 26%;
}
.pad30pc {
  margin-left: 30%;
}
.ind33pc {
  text-indent: 33%;
}
.pad40pc {
  margin-left: 40%;
}
.pad50pc {
  margin-left: 50%;
}
.pad57pc {
  margin-left: 57%;
}
div.title-page {
  text-align: center;
  page-break-before: always;
  page-break-inside: avoid;
  margin: auto;
}
@media screen and (max-width: 1500px) {
div.title-page {
  font-size: 90%;
}
}
.x-ebookmaker div.title-page {
  font-size: 85%;
}
.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA;
    color: black;
     font-size:smaller;
     padding:0.5em;
     font-family:sans-serif, serif; 
}
li.no-bullet {
   list-style-type: none;
}
table {
    margin-left: auto;
    margin-right: auto;
    font-size: 100%;
}
table.errata td {
    font-size: 80%;
}
table.bd-collapse {
    border-collapse: collapse;
}
table.toc {
    max-width: 45em;
    font-size: 95%;
}
table.toi {
    max-width: 45em;
    font-size: 90%;
}
table.toi td {
    padding-top: 0.25em;
    padding-bottom: 0.25em;
    padding-right: 0.4em;
}
table.toc td {
    padding-top: 0.2em;
    padding-bottom: 0.2em;
    padding-right: 0.4em;
}
.blb {
    border-left-width: 1px;
    border-left-style: solid;
    border-bottom-width: 1px;
    border-bottom-style: solid;
}
.linel {
    border-left-width: 1px;
    border-left-style: solid;
}
.blt {
    border-left-width: 1px;
    border-left-style: solid;
    border-top-style: solid;
    border-top-width: 1px;
}
.width-brace1 {
   width: 0.5em;
}
table td.sect1 {
    padding-top: 1em;
}
table td.pad-right03 {
    padding-right: 0.3em;
}
table td.pad-right1 {
    padding-right: 1em;
}
table td.pad-right2 {
    padding-right: 2em;
}
table td.pad1 {
    padding-left: 1em;
}
table td.pad2 {
    padding-left: 2em;
}
th {
    font-weight: normal;
    font-size: 85%;
    text-align: center;
}
td, td > p {
    margin-top: 0.25em;
    line-height: 1.1em;
}
td.bt, tr.bt td {
    border-top: thin solid black;
}
td.bbdb, tr.bbdb td {
    border-bottom:  5px double black;
}
.tdl-top {
    text-align: left;
    vertical-align: top;
    }
.tdr-top {
    text-align: right;
    vertical-align: top;
    }
.tdr-bot {
    text-align: right;
    vertical-align: bottom;
    }
.tdl      {text-align: left;}
.tdr      {text-align: right;}
.tdc      {text-align: center;}
.tdc-bot {
    text-align: center;
    vertical-align: bottom;
    }
.width-full {
  width: 100%;
}
.width-half {
  width: 50%;
}
.tabw40 {
  width: 40em;
  max-width: 100%;
}
.x-ebookmaker .tabw40 {
  width: 100%;
}
.tabw35 {
  width: 35em;
  max-width: 100%;
}
.x-ebookmaker .tabw35 {
  width: 100%;
}
.width6 {
  width: 6em;
}
.width4 {
  width: 4em;
}
div.box-float{
  text-align: center;
  margin: auto;
  padding: 1em 1em 1em 1em;
}
div.figfloat   {
    margin: auto;
    margin-top: 0;
    margin-bottom: 0;
    text-align: center;
    max-width: 100%;
}
div.figcenterplate   {
    page-break-before: always;
    margin: auto;
    margin-top: 2em;
    margin-bottom: 2em;
    text-align: center;
    max-width: 100%;
}
.x-ebookmaker div.figcenterplate   {
    margin-top: 0;
}
div.figcenter   {
    margin: auto;
    margin-top: 1em;
    margin-bottom: 1em;
    text-align: center;
    max-width: 100%;
}
figure {
    display: inline-block;
    margin: 0 auto;
    text-align: center;
    max-width: 100%;
}
figure p {
    text-indent: 0;
    margin-top: 0;
    margin-bottom: 0;
    margin-left: auto;
    margin-right: auto;
    }
figure td.cp1 {
    text-indent: 0;
    text-align: center;
    vertical-align: top;
    font-size: 95%;
    letter-spacing: 0.07em;
    padding-top: 0.7em;
}
.x-ebookmaker figure td.cp1 {
    font-size: 90%;
    letter-spacing: 0.05em;
}
figure p.cp1 {
    text-align: center;
    font-size: 95%;
    letter-spacing: 0.07em;
    margin-top: 0.7em;
}
.x-ebookmaker figure p.cp1 {
    font-size: 90%;
    letter-spacing: 0.05em;
}
.cp2 {
    text-align: center;
    font-size: 85%;
    letter-spacing: 0.01em;
    margin-top: 0.1em;
}
figure p.cp2 {
    text-align: center;
    font-size: 85%;
    letter-spacing: 0.01em;
    margin-top: 0.1em;
}
figure p.cp3 {
    text-align: center;
    font-size: 75%;
    letter-spacing: 0.01em;
    margin-top: 0.1em;
}
figure p.cp4 {
    text-align: center;
    font-size: 90%;
    letter-spacing: 0.04em;
    margin-top: 0.7em;
}
figure p.cp5 {
    text-align: center;
    font-size: 85%;
    margin-top: 0.5em;
}
figure p.cpf {
    text-align: center;
    font-size: 75%;
    margin-top: 0.5em;
    margin-bottom: 0.3em;
}
figure p.ipub {
    font-size: 65%;
    margin-top: 0;
}
figure td.ipub {
    font-size: 65%;
}
.ipubr {
    text-align: right;
    font-size: 65%;
    margin-top: 0;
}
figure p.ipubr {
    text-align: right;
    font-size: 65%;
    margin-top: 0;
}
figure p.ipubl {
    text-align: left;
    font-size: 65%;
    margin-top: 0;
}
figure p.platelabel {
    text-align: right;
    font-size: 70%;
    margin-top: 0;
}
figure p.ipubb {
    text-align: center;
    font-size: 65%;
    margin-top: 1em;
}
figure p.small {
    text-align: center;
    font-size: 70%;
}
figure p.map {
    text-align: center;
    margin-top: 0.05em;
    line-height: 1.5;
    font-size: 85%;
}
.x-ebookmaker figure p.map {
    line-height: 1.2;
}
.float-left {
    float: left;
}
.x-ebookmaker .float-left {
    float: none;
}
.clear {
    clear: both;
}
img {
   width: inherit;
   max-width: 100%;
}
.iwsym {
    width: 1.5em;
}
.iw1 {
    width: 1050px;
}
.iw2 {
    width: 1030px;
}
.iw3 {
    width: 1000px;
}
.iw4 {
    width: 970px;
}
.iw5 {
    width: 950px;
}
.iw6 {
    width: 930px;
}
.iw7 {
    width: 900px;
}
.iw8 {
    width: 870px;
}
.iw9 {
    width: 770px;
}
@media screen and (max-width: 1500px) {
.iw9 {
    width: 420px;
}
}
.x-ebookmaker .iw9 {
    max-width: 65%;
}
.iw10 {
    width: 730px;
}
@media screen and (max-width: 1500px) {
.iw10 {
    width: 400px;
}
}
.x-ebookmaker .iw10 {
    max-width: 65%;
}
.iw11 {
    width: 700px;
}
.iw12 {
    width: 670px;
}
@media screen and (max-width: 1500px) {
.iw12 {
    width: 335px;
}
}
.x-ebookmaker .iw12 {
    max-width: 65%;
}
.iw13 {
    width: 600px;
}
@media screen and (max-width: 1500px) {
.iw13 {
    width: 300px;
}
}
.x-ebookmaker .iw13 {
    max-width: 65%;
}
.iw14 {
    width: 530px;
}
.iw15 {
    width: 500px;
}
.iw16 {
    width: 450px;
}
.iw17 {
    width: 330px;
}
.iw18 {
    width: 330px;
}
.iw19 {
    width: 300px;
}
.iw20 {
    width: 170px;
}
.iw21 {
    width: 170px;
}
.iw22 {
    width: 100px;
}
.iw23 {
    width: 30px;
}
</style>
</head>
<body>
<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 74151 ***</div>
<div class="margins">
<div class="transnote x-ebookmaker-drop">
<p class="center">Large-size versions of illustrations are
available by clicking on them.</p>
</div>

<div class="figcenterplate iw9">
<figure id="pl44">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 44.</p>
<a href="images/pl44.jpg"><img src='images/pl44.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="ipub tdl"><em>From a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins
Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="ipub tdr"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">TEMPLE OF AMARAH.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<div class="title-page">
<h1><span class="bold xlarge letter-spaced03">TRAVELS</span><br>
<span class="vsmall">IN</span><br>
<span class="bold xxlarge"><span class=
"letter-spaced08">ETHIOPI</span>A,</span><br>
<span class="vsmall">ABOVE THE SECOND CATARACT OF THE NILE;</span>
</h1>

<p class="center spaced15"><span class=
"tiny">EXHIBITING</span><br class="spaced2">
<span class="small word-spaced02">THE STATE OF THAT COUNTRY, AND
ITS VARIOUS INHABITANTS,</span><br>
<span class="vsmall">UNDER THE DOMINION OF MOHAMMED ALI;</span>
</p>

<p class="center spaced15"><span class="tiny">AND
ILLUSTRATING</span><br class="spaced2">
<span class="bold less85 word-spaced02">THE ANTIQUITIES, ARTS, AND
HISTORY</span><br>
<span class="tiny">OF</span><br>
<span class="med">THE ANCIENT KINGDOM OF MEROE.</span>
</p>

<hr class="decor width6 space-above15">

<p class="center">BY G. A. HOSKINS, ESQ.</p>

<hr class="decor width6 space-below15">

<p class="center"><span class="small">WITH A MAP,</span><br class=
"spaced2">
<span class="vsmall">AND NINETY ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE TEMPLES,
PYRAMIDS, ETC. OF MEROE,<br>
GIBEL-EL-BIRKEL, SOLIB, ETC.</span><br>
<span class="tiny">FROM DRAWINGS FINISHED ON THE SPOT, BY THE
AUTHOR,<br>
AND AN ARTIST WHOM HE EMPLOYED.</span>
</p>

<p class="publisher">LONDON:<br>
<span class="less95">LONGMAN, REES, ORME, BROWN, GREEN, &
LONGMAN,</span><br>
<span class="tiny">PATERNOSTER-ROW.</span><br>
<span class="med">1835.</span></p>
</div>

<div class="page">
<p class="center tiny space-above">London:<br>
Printed by A. <span class="sc">Spottiswoode</span>,<br>
New-Street-Square.</p>
</div>

<hr class="chap">

<p class="center spaced3 pb"><span class="small">TO</span><br>
<span class="bold">HER ROYAL HIGHNESS</span><br>
<span class="bold xlarge"><span class="letter-spaced02">THE DUCHESS
OF KEN</span>T.</span>
</p>

<div class="dedic">
<p class="nind pad8pc space-above2"><span class=
"sc">Madam</span>,</p>

<p class="ind33pc">Your Royal Highness having been pleased to
inspect, with some apparent interest, the portfolios of original
drawings from which the illustrations of the annexed volume have
been selected, I have ventured to solicit permission to inscribe
the Work to Your Royal Highness.</p>

<p class="ind11pc">It has little merit, perhaps, except fidelity of
representation. But, claiming this for it, I presume to hope that
it may obtain Your Royal Highness’s indulgent consideration, even
though it should be found more deficient in other respects than I
am willing to believe.</p>

<p class="nind pad15pc">I have the honour to be,</p>

<p class="nind pad30pc"><span class="sc">Madam</span>,</p>

<p class="nind pad26pc">With profound respect,</p>

<p class="nind pad40pc">Your Royal Highness’s</p>

<p class="nind pad50pc">Most obedient</p>

<p class="nind pad57pc">Humble Servant,</p>

<p class="nind right">THE AUTHOR.</p>
</div>

<hr class="chap">

<h2 class="large bold"><span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_v">[v]</span><span class=
"letter-spaced01">PREFAC</span>E.</h2>

<hr class="decor width4 spaced3">

<p class="nind"><span class="sc">The</span> following work contains
the observations made by the Author during a journey performed by
him in 1833 into the higher parts of Ethiopia. It is illustrated by
engraved representations of the most remarkable objects in that
country, from large drawings, finished on the spot by himself, or
under his direction.</p>

<p>The monuments of Egypt, the most wonderful ever reared by human
hands, have been described by numerous travellers, though there is
still ample room for more full and accurate delineation. Even the
antiquities of Lower Nubia have of late been repeatedly visited.
But Ethiopia, above the second cataract, including the metropolis
of the ancient kingdom of Meroe, had been explored by very few
Europeans, and only two Englishmen; yet it abounds with monuments
rivalling those of Egypt in grandeur and beauty, and possessing, in
some respects, a superior interest. According to Heeren,
Champollion, Rosellini, and other eminent inquirers, whose judgment
was confirmed by my own observations, this was the land whence the
arts and learning of Egypt, and ultimately of Greece and Rome,
derived their origin. In this remarkable country we behold the
earliest efforts of human science and ingenuity.</p>

<p>Such were the objects which induced the Author to encounter the
difficulties and hardships of a journey into the upper
valley<span class="pagenum" id="Page_vi">[vi]</span> of the Nile.
It were to be wished, that the task had fallen into abler hands;
yet he may be permitted to mention, that he had, to a certain
extent, been prepared for it, by a series of years spent in Italy,
Sicily, Greece, and other countries, distinguished by splendid
remains of antiquity. He resided afterwards for a year in Upper
Egypt, delineating its most remarkable edifices, and studying the
sculptures and the hieroglyphics. He had thus acquired considerable
experience in architectural drawing, and he took care, by the use
of the <em>camera lucida</em>, to secure the accuracy of his
outline. He had, likewise, the good fortune to engage the services
of a very able Italian artist. No spot of any consequence was left
till a leisurely and careful delineation had been made of every
object of interest which it contained. It is therefore hoped, that
a tolerably complete and accurate delineation has now been made of
the most important antiquities of Ethiopia.</p>

<p>Although the illustration of ancient monuments formed the
Author’s primary object, he has not neglected to make observations
on the various and often singular tribes by whom the country is at
present inhabited. He has been enabled to exhibit them under a new
and very peculiar aspect, as no longer proud and independent, but
reduced to complete subjection under the severe sway of that
extraordinary character, Mohammed Ali, Pasha of Egypt. It is hoped
that some light has been thrown upon the Turkish system of
government, particularly in the provinces. Perhaps, also, the
narrative of his journeys through extensive tracts of desert may be
read with some interest. The original form of a journal has been
retained, as that in which the impressions of the observer are
given in the most faithful and brief manner.</p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_vii">[vii]</span>In the
concluding chapters, the Author has endeavoured to collect into one
view the scattered notices which alone record the history,
commerce, and arts of the celebrated kingdom of Meroe, and to
illustrate these by recent materials, collected by himself, and
others, from the sculptures and inscriptions still remaining.
Lamentably deficient as our information is on this important
subject, it may be interesting to find the few particulars related
in ancient history, and particularly in the sacred volume, in many
respects so fully confirmed by the evidence of existing
monuments.<a id="FNanchor_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1" class=
"fnanchor">[1]</a></p>

<hr class="chap">

<h2 class="bold large"><span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_ix">[ix]</span><span class=
"letter-spaced01">CONTENT</span>S.</h2>

<hr class="decor width4 spaced3">

<table class="toc">
<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c01">CHAPTER I.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Intended Return to Cairo. — Arrival of
Artist. — Determination to penetrate to Meroe. — Motives. —
Advantages to be derived from the Discoveries of Young, Wilkinson,
Champollion, and Rosellini. — Departure from Thebes. — Turkish Mode
of Fasting. — Arrival at Assuan. — Hints to Travellers on Turkish
Etiquette. — Nazr of Berber. — Unpromising Accounts of the Desert.
— Detention for Want of Camels. — Sheakh of the Ababde Tribe. —
Ruins of Elephantine and Assuan. — Bosnian Soldiers. — Water Skins
defective. — Arrival of the Camels. — Commencement of the Journey.
— Nubian Poverty. — Caravan from Khartoun. — Cultivation in Lower
Nubia. — Singular and Picturesque Scenery. — Nubian Peasantry and
their Slaves. — Turkish Humanity. — Roman Enclosure at Dacker. —
Provisions in Nubia. — Similarity of a modern and ancient Custom. —
Nubians, their Prejudices, Poverty, Food, Want of Religion, and
Drunkenness. — Their domestic Comfort, and comparative Freedom. —
Wady el Arab. — Arrival at Korosko. — Preparations for crossing the
Great Nubian Desert. — The Governor of Korosko. — Drunken Coptic
Secretary</td>
<td class="tdr-bot no-wrap">Page 1</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c02">CHAPTER II.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Commencement of the Journey across the
Great Nubian Desert. — Description of the Caravan. — Advantages of
Turkish Dress and Customs. — Provisions necessary for the Desert. —
Akaba, or Mountain Passes. — Dead Camels. — Fear of Robbers. —
Anxiety about the Stock of Water. — Arab Opinion of Travellers. —
Alarming Diminution of our Water. — Dead Bodies of Slaves and
Camels. — Hojab el Jenous. — Bab el Korosko. — Age of the Camel. —
Bahr Bela Ma, or Sea without Water. — Mirage. — Perils and Charms
of the Desert Life. — Dilet el Doom, Valley of the Shade of the
Dooms. — Gold Mines. — Omrishi Sufir. — Wells now dry.<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_x">[x]</span> — El Murrah, or the Well of Bitter
Waters. — Hieroglyphics on the Rocks. — Colony of Bishareen. —
Height and Character of the Mountains. — Arab Songs. — Gazelle. —
Danger of leaving Caravan. — Absah Gold Mines. — Storms in the
Desert. — Cambyses. — Bruce. — Arab Manner of mounting the Camel. —
Manner in which the Arabs repose. — Arrival at the Nile. — Estimate
of the Length of the Route and general Pace of the Camel</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">17</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c03">CHAPTER III.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Abou-Hammed. — Fortified House of the
Sheakh. — Island of Mograt. — Population. — Tax to the Pasha. —
Tropical Rains. — Arab Raft. — Fortunate Escape. — Manner in which
the Camels pass the River. — Gagi. — Description of the Harem of a
Sheakh. — Office hereditary. — Habitation of a Sheakh. — Ethiopian
Flies. — Doum Trees. — Abou-Hashim and other Villages. —
Cultivation. — Arab Civilities. — Berber Sheep and Goats. —
Villages and Islands. — Arab Burial-ground. — General Character of
the Country. — Tract of Desert. — Wild Asses. — Fifth Cataract. —
Present State of numerous Villages. — Arrival at Makkarif, Capital
of Berber</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">34</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c04">CHAPTER IV.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Visit to the Governor. — Court and
ancient Chiefs of the Country. — Hospitable Reception. — Turkish
Entertainments. — Character of the Governor. — His Attentions. —
Style of living. — Dongolah Horses. — Anecdotes, Costumes, and
Portraits of the Chiefs. — Turkish Knowledge of the Arts. — Bazaar
of Makkarif. — Houses. — Manufactory of Indigo. — Extent of
Cultivation. — Population. — Camels’ Hides. — Sugar Manufactory. —
Ethiopian Wool. — Bishareen Tribe. — Manner of collecting their
Tribute. — Ababdes and other Arab Tribes. — Turkish Policy. —
Burckhardt. — Character of the People. — Arabs of the Desert</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">44</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c05">CHAPTER V.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Departure from Makkarif. — Various
Villages. — The Mugrum, ancient Astoboras. — Route to Goss Redjab.
— Verdant Appearance of the Island of Meroe. — Voyage on the
Astapus. — Numerous Villages. — Cottages. — Hippopotami. — Manner
of destroying them. — Villages. — Arrival at the Pyramids of
Meroe</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">62</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_xi">[xi]</span><a href="#c06">CHAPTER VI.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc less">MEROE.</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Historical Evidence that this is the
Cemetery of the Capital of Ethiopia. — The imposing Appearance,
Number, Position, and Dimensions of the Pyramids. — Ethiopian Arch.
— Proofs that the Knowledge of the Arts descended front Ethiopia. —
Edifices of a pyramidal Form the best adapted to resist the Ravages
of Time. — Peculiar Style of the Sculpture. — The Language of
Hieroglyphics generally known in Ethiopia. — The Style of the
Sculpture the Criterion of the Age. — Monumental, geological, and
historical Evidence that the Knowledge of the Arts descended from
Meroe. — Description of the Sculpture. — Name of Meroe on the
Monuments. — Meroe peculiarly interesting, as the Birth-place of
the Arts. — Sandstone Quarries. — Site of the City. — Villages of
the present Inhabitants. — Agriculture. — Cailliaud</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">66</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c07">CHAPTER VII.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Departure from the Ruins. — Numerous
Villages, one called Meroueer. — Shendy. — Fortified House of the
Melek. — Insignificance of the present Capitals of Ethiopia. —
Population of Shendy. — Bazaar. — Prices of Camels, Slaves, &amp;c.
— Manner of transacting Business. — Women of Shendy. — Slave
System. — Power of the ancient Meleks. — Their Wives. — Army of the
Pasha. — Death of Ismael Pasha. — Metammah. — The Katshef of that
Place, and his Court. — Katshef of Shendy</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">86</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c08">CHAPTER VIII.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Departure from Shendy. — Difficulties. —
Desert. — Visit from and Anecdotes of Lions. — Immense Ruins. —
Confusion of the Plan. — Built by bad Architects. — Detailed
Description of the principal Temple. — Style of the Sculpture. —
Other Ruins. — Singular Situation of the Ruins. — The Purpose for
which they were constructed. — Their probable Age</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">94</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c09">CHAPTER IX.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Deficiency of Water. — Return to the
Nile. — Wild Animals. — Ancient Canal. — Temple of Abou Naga. —
Difficulties. — The modern Capitals of Ethiopia. — Sennaar. — The
Difficulty of penetrating to the Source of the Bahr el Abiad. —
Tribe of Arabs on its Banks. — Water less sweet than that of the
Bahr el Azruk. — Arab Description of the River. — Inundation of the
Nile. — Return to Shendy. — Mameluke Exercise</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">111</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_xii">[xii]</span><a href="#c10">CHAPTER X.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Metammah. — Difficulty of finding Camels
to cross the Bahiouda Desert. — Wretched State of the Peasants when
attacked by Illness. — Intermittent Fevers. — Costumes of Metammah.
— Women of high Rank. — Their long Nails. — Manner of increasing
their Length. — Bahiouda Desert. — Wells at Aboulay. — Reflections
on the Desert Life. — Shageea Tribe. — Wells called Gagdool. —
Signor B. unwell. — Hassanyeh Tribe. — Animals of the Desert. —
Greyhound Dog. — Well of Magaga. — Dangerous Illness of Signor B. —
Well of delicious Water called Haless. — Beauty of the Scenery. —
Shepherd Boys. — Character of the Rocks. — Wells of good Water
called Hannek and Prasoli. — The Manner the Shageea salute. —
Coptic Christian Church. — Arrival at the Town of Meroueh. —
Hieroglyphics on a Slab in the Castle</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">123</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c11">CHAPTER XI.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Antiquities of Gibel el Birkel. —
Description and Dimensions of the Mountain. — Temple built by the
Tirhaka of the Bible. — Various other interesting Remains and
Temples. — Pyramids. — Circular and pointed Arch invented in
Ethiopia</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">134</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c12">CHAPTER XII.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Present Inhabitants of Birkel. — Funeral
Ceremonies in the Mahometan Burial-grounds. — Name of Rameses II.
or Sesostris. — Description of the present State of the Country. —
Indigo Manufactories. — The Shageea Tribe. — One of their Meleks. —
Pyramids of Nouri, dilapidated State. — Curious Construction of
one. — General Dimensions. — Antiquity. — Comparison between the
ancient and modern Buildings of Ethiopia. — Return to Meroueh. —
Turkish Manner of being paid for Services. — Voyage down the Nile.
— Numerous Villages. — Shageea Tribe. — Intoxication, Learning,
&amp;c. — Various Villages and Islands. — Effects of the Climate
and other Peculiarities of this Country on the Character of the
People. — Noble Manners of the Arabs. — Dongolah Agous. — Probable
Site of Napata. — Negro Slaves. — Effects of the Cruelty of their
Owners. — Encroachments of the Desert. — Cultivation. —
Peasants</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">160</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c13">CHAPTER XIII.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Visit to the Governor. — Extent of his
Government. — Indigo. — Water Wheels. — Population. — Taxes. —
Prices of Produce. — Oasis of Dongolah,<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_xiii">[xiii]</span> called El Gab. — Route to Kordofan. —
Information about that Country. — Baneful Climate. — Captain
Gordon. — Arab Tribes of Kordofan. — General Appearance of New
Dongolah. — The Bazaar. — Curious Use of Ointment. — Merchandise. —
The Bazaar. — Slave Market. — Commerce carried on by Barter. —
Curious Manner of effecting Sales. — Dongolah Goldsmith. —
Auctioneers. — Various Arab Tribes. — Costumes. — Women, the
Elegance of their Attire. — Breaking of the <em>Rat</em>. —
Giraffe. — Hassanyeh Tribe. — Elephants</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">176</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c14">CHAPTER XIV.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Marriage and other Ceremonies of
Dongolah. — Character of the People, their Habitations. — Women,
their Amusements. — Arab Tale. — Government of Dongolah</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">189</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c15">CHAPTER XV.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Departure from Dongolah. — Numerous
Villages. — Island of Argo. — Residence of the Melek. — Arab
Accountants. — Melek Tumbol. — Extent of his Territory. — Arab
Manners compared with European. — Philosophy of the Arabs. — The
Melek’s Dinner. — Military Force. — Garden. — Visit to the
Antiquities. — Numerous Vestiges of ancient Towns. — Colossal
Statues. — Remains of a large Temple. — Name of Sabaco, the
Conqueror of Egypt. — Entertainment of an Arab Sheakh. — Richness
of the Island. — Indigo. — Ethiopian Fort. — Cataract of Toumbos. —
Mutilated colossal Statue. — Hospitality of an Arab Sheakh. —
Character of the Inhabitants. — Hippopotamus. — Alarming
Intelligence. — Revolt of the Mahas. — Dreadful Consequences. — Our
providential Escape. — Arab Stories of Travellers</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">204</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c16">CHAPTER XVI.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Return to New Dongolah. — The Governor. —
His Indecision. — General Alarm. — Interview with the Governor. —
His difficult Situation and Want of Energy. — Increase of the
Insurgents. — Retreat of the Katshef of Haffeer. — Troops marched
out against the Insurgents. — Fears about the Result. — Their Army.
— The Battle. — Effects of the Revolt. — Roads impassable. — Return
of the Expedition. — Turkish and Arab Evolutions. — Hassanyeh. —
Funge. — Curious Assemblage. — <em>Lululoo</em> of the Women. —
Turkish System of Government in the Provinces, and present State of
the Peasantry and Arabs of the Desert above Wady Halfah</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">222</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_xiv">[xiv]</span><a href="#c17">CHAPTER XVII.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Departure from El Ourde. — Alarms of the
Caravan. — Melek Backeet. — Return to Haffeer. — Detention in the
Indigo Manufactory. — Nubian Plants. — Second Expedition of the
Government. — Fanaticism of the Insurgents. — The Battle. —
Prisoners. — Departure from Haffeer. — Description of the Caravan.
— Cataract. — Effects of the Revolution. — Splendid Ruins of Solib.
— Excavated Tomb near Solib. — Ruins of Sukkot. — Heat of the
Climate. — Island of Sais. — Remains of Christian Ruins. —
Destructive Effects of the Desert</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">237</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c18">CHAPTER XVIII.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Kasr Towaga. — Difficulty of crossing the
River. — Indolence of the Arabs. — Arab Sheakh. — Temple of Amarah.
— Present Inhabitants. — Wady el Hadjar. — Fortified House on an
Island at Dahl. — Cataract of Uckma. — Bigotry of the Inhabitants.
— Various Cataracts of the Nile. — Mineral Spring at Tangoure. —
Temples of Semneh, on the Western Bank. — Curious Manner of
crossing the River. — Temple of Semneh, on the Eastern Bank. —
Inscriptions on the Rocks. — The Arab Robber Isah. — Second
Cataract of the Nile. — Inducements for Travellers to extend their
Journey beyond this Point. — Comparison between Voyages in the
Desert and at Sea</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">259</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c19">CHAPTER XIX.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc less">ON THE HISTORY OF MERGE.</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Obscurity of her Annals. — Historical
Associations necessary to render a Country interesting. — Works of
Art historical Documents. — Lapidary Inscriptions. — Amunoph III. —
Memnon, King of Ethiopia. — Expedition of Semiramis, Queen of
Assyria, into Ethiopia. — Ethiopians in the Army of Shishak marched
to Jerusalem. — The Sukkiims of Scripture. — Expedition of Zerah,
the Ethiopian King of the Bible, and his Defeat by the Tribes of
Judah and Benjamin. — The Ethiopian Dynasty of Kings who reigned
over Egypt. — The Testimony of the Historians proved by lapidary
Inscriptions. — The Name of Tirhaka, King of Ethiopia, who defeated
Sennacherib, King of Assyria, found both on the Monuments of Egypt
and Ethiopia. — The Names and Titles of this Dynasty of Kings. —
Accordance of the Scriptural, monumental, and historical Evidences.
— The Sethos of Herodotus, the Tirhaka of Scripture and of the
Monuments.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xv">[xv]</span> — The Sua,
King of Egypt of the Bible, the Sevechus of Manetho, and the
Shabatok of the Monuments</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">284</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c20">CHAPTER XX.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">The Emigration of Egyptian Soldiers at
the Time of Psammitichus. — Expedition of Cambyses. — Manners,
Customs, &amp;c. of the Macrobians, &amp;c. — Curious Customs of
the Ethiopians. — Ergamenes, the Ethiopian King’s, Conquests in
Lower Nubia. — Atarraman and Silco, Ethiopian Kings. — Expedition
of Petronius. — Queen Candace. — Christianity first introduced into
Ethiopia. — Its Duration. — Napata, Capital of Candace. — Blemmyes
and the Nubians</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">306</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c21">CHAPTER XXI.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc less">ON THE COMMERCE OF MEROE.</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Requisites for a State enjoying extensive
Commerce. — Advantageous Position of Meroe. — Probable Extent of
her Commerce. — The Facility afforded to its Extension by Means of
the Camel. — Commerce of Arabia and India. — Abundance of Gold. —
Iron and Gum. — Ethiopian Tribute to Egypt. — Description of a
splendid Ethiopian Procession at Thebes. — Commerce of the
Interior. — Causes of the Decline of Meroe. — Diminution of her
agricultural Resources. — Exhaustion of Mines. — Rivalry of Egypt.
— Wars with Egypt. — Arab Conquest. — Present Commerce</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">321</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c22">CHAPTER XXII.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdc less">ON THE ARTS OF MEROE.</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Affluence would introduce a Taste for the
Arts. — The Heat of the Climate favourable to Sedentary Pursuits. —
Private Emulation would afford farther Encouragement. — Desire of
distinguishing themselves by Intellectual Pursuits. — Testimony of
Diodorus that Knowledge was very generally diffused in Ethiopia. —
The Pyramids of Meroe the oldest Specimens of Ethiopian Art. —
Civilisation of the Ethiopians proved by their monumental Edifices.
— The Ethiopians Inventors of the Arch. — Egyptian Arches. —
Ethiopian Sculpture. — Probable Cause of their peculiar Style. —
Reasons for preserving it. — Deference of the Ptolemies and Romans
for the Superstitions of the Egyptians. — Pleasing Effect of the
Egyptian and Ethiopian Sculpture. — Admirable Manner of drawing
Animals, Hieroglyphics, and their Taste in Ornaments. — Colouring
on Ethiopian Sculpture. — The Knowledge of the Arts descended
from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xvi">[xvi]</span> Ethiopia. —
Complexion of the ancient and present Inhabitants. — Accuracy of
Diodorus’s Account proved by the Monuments. — Taste for the Arts in
a Nation inseparable from other Intellectual Pursuits. — Works of
the Ethiopian King Tirhaka. — Review of the Antiquities in
Ethiopia. — Folly of comparing the present with the ancient
Inhabitants of the Valley of the Nile</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">346</td>
</tr>
</table>

<hr class="chap">

<h2 class="bold"><span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_xvii">[xvii]</span>ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2>

<hr class="decor width4 spaced3">

<p class="center less space-above2"><a href="#map"><span class=
"sc">Map of the Nile</span></a> from Assuan to the conflux of the
Bahr El Abiad and the Azruk.</p>

<table class="toi">
<tr>
<td colspan="4" class="tdc sect1">ENGRAVINGS ON STONE.</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr sc med">Plate</td>
<td>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdr med">Page</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl01">I.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Shageea of the Desert and Camel Man of
the Ababde Tribe</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">164</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl02">II.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Sheahk Beshir, and Son of a Bishareen
Sheahk</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">46</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl03">III.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Nazr ed Deen and Sheakh Sayd, Chief of
the Ababde Tribe</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">44</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl04">IV.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Senna and Indigo Plants</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">240</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl05">V.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">General Plan of the Pyramids of
Meroe</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">66</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl06">VI.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Principal Group of the Pyramids of
Meroe</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">68</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl07">VII.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Sections of the Pyramids of Meroe</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">70</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl08">VIII.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Pyramids of Meroe</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">72</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl09">IX.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Pyramids of Meroe</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">74</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl10">X.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Sculpture in the Porticoes of the
Pyramids of Meroe</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">76</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl11">XI.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Sculpture in the Porticoes of the
Pyramids of Meroe</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">78</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl12">XII.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Sculpture in the Porticoes of the
Pyramids of Meroe</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">80</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl13">XIII.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Plan of the Ruins of Wady Owataib</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">100</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl14">XIV.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Picturesque View of the ruins of Wady
Owataib</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">102</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl15">XV.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Picturesque View of the ruins of Wady
Owataib</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">104</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl16">XVI.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Costumes of Moussa, Son of a Melek of
Berber, and a Woman of Shendy</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">88</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl17">XVII.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">General Plan of the Ruins of Gibel el
Birkel</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">134</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl18">XVIII.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">General View of the Ruins of Gibel el
Birkel</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">136</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl19">XIX.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Temple of Tirhaka</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">138</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl20">XX.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Temple of Tirhaka</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">140</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl21">XXI.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Plan of the Temple of Tirhaka</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">142</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl22">XXII.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Restoration of the Temple of Tirhaka</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">144</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl23">XXIII.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">View of Temple of Amun Sekon Gibel el
Birkel</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">146</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl24"><span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_xviii">[xviii]</span>XXIV.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Plan of the Great Temple at Gibel el
Birkel</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">148</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl25">XXV.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">View from the Great Temple at Gibel el
Birkel</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">150</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl26">XXVI.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Pyramids of Gibel el
Birkel</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">152</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl27">XXVII.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Pyramids of Gibel el
Birkel</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">154</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl28">XXVIII.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Sections of the Pyramids of Gibel el
Birkel</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">156</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl29">XXIX.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Sculpture in the Portico of a Pyramid at
Gibel el Birkel</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">158</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl30">XXX.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Melek of the Shageea Tribe</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">162</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl31">XXXI.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Pyramids of Nouri</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">166</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl32">XXXII.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Plan of the Pyramids of Nouri</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">168</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl33">XXXIII.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">View of a Colossal Statue in the Island
of Argo</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">210</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl34">XXXIV.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">View of a Colossal Statue in the Island
of Argo</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">212</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl35">XXXV.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Restoration of the two Colossal Statues
in the Island of Argo</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">214</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl36">XXXVI.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Exterior of a Dongolah
Cottage</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">192</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl37">XXXVII.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Interior of a Dongolah
Cottage</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">194</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl38">XXXVIII.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Shageea fighting</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">228</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl39">XXXIX.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Hassanyeh Tribe</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">188</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl40">XL.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Plan of the Temple of Solib</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">246</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl41">XLI.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Temple of Solib</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">248</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl42">XLII.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Temple of Solib</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">250</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl43">XLIII.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Temple of Solib</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">252</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl44">XLIV.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Temple of Amarah</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">Frontispiece.</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl45">XLV.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Ruins of Semneh</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">276</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl46">XLVI.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Part 1. Grand Ethiopian Procession in a
Tomb at Thebes</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">328</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl47">XLVII.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Part 2. Grand Ethiopian Procession in a
Tomb at Thebes</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">330</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl48">XLVIII.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Part 3. Grand Ethiopian Procession in a
Tomb at Thebes</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">332</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl49">XLIX.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Part 4. Grand Ethiopian Procession in a
Tomb at Thebes</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">334</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl50">L.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Second Cataract of the Nile</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">278</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl51">LI.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Sculpture in the Temple of Semneh</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">270</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl52">LII.</a>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Osshi Plant</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">240</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl53">LIII.</a>
</td>
<td rowspan="2">⎱<br>
⎰</td>
<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1">Hieroglyphic Inscriptions and
Sculpture at Meroe and Gibel el Birkel</td>
<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">286</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#pl54">LIV.</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="4" class="tdc sect1">WOOD ENGRAVINGS.</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Cottages of
Berber</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i01">1</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Fifth Cataract of
the Nile</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i02">41</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Pyramids of
Meroe</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i03">69</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">View of the South-east Group
of the Pyramids of Meroe</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i04">71</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1"><span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_xix">[xix]</span>View of the fortified Residence of the
ancient Meleks or Kings of Shendy</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i05">87</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">View of the small Temple of
Wady el Owataib</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i06">102</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">Sections of the Columns at
Wady el Owataib</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i07">104</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Temple of Abou
Naga</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i08">112</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">Plan of the Ruins of Abou
Naga</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i09">113</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">Plan of the Pyramids of Gibel
el Birkel</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i10">149</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Pyramids of Gibel
el Birkel</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i11">151</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">View of the fortified House
of Melek Tumbol</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i12">206</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Ruins of an
Ethiopian Fort</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i13">216</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Cataract of
Hennek</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i14">217</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">View of a Colossal Statue in
the Quarries at Toumbos</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i15">218</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">Section of the Columns of
Solib</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i16">247</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">View from a Tomb excavated
out of the Rock near Solib</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i17">253</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">Plan of a Temple at
Sukkot</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i18">254</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">View of a Temple at
Sukkot</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i19">253</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">Plan of the Temple of
Amarah</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i20">261</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">Harp of the Shageea</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i21">263</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Island of Dahl in
the Wady el Hadjar</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i22">265</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Temple of Semneh,
West Side of the River</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i23">269</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">Plan of the Temple of Semneh,
West Side of the River</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i24">271</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">View of the Temple of Semneh,
East Side of the River</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i25">273</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">Plan of the Temple of Semneh,
East Side of the River</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i26">274</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">Egyptian Arch formed by
approaching Stones</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i27">351</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">Egyptian Arch,
elliptical</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i28">352</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">Egyptian Arch, Segment of a
Circle</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i29">353</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">Name in Hieroglyphics of King
Sabaco</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i30">296</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">Name in Hieroglyphics of King
Sevechus</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i31">297</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">Name in Hieroglyphics of King
Tirhaka</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i32">297</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">Name in Hieroglyphics of
other Ethiopians of the Royal Family</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i33a">298</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">Name in Hieroglyphics of King
Ergamenes</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i34">314</a>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">Name in Hieroglyphics of King
Atarramon</td>
<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i35">315</a>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<hr class="chap">

<h2 class="med"><a id="errata"></a>ERRATA.</h2>

<table class="errata">
<tr>
<td>Pages</td>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#Page_5">5</a>,</td>
<td><a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href=
"#Page_46">46</a>. <em>for</em> “Katschef, Katshief,” <em>read</em>
“Katshef.”</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#Page_18">18</a>,</td>
<td><a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href=
"#Page_32">32</a>. <em>for</em> “Ababdis,” <em>read</em>
“Ababdes.”</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#Page_11">11</a>,</td>
<td><a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href=
"#Page_14">14</a>. <em>for</em> “Melik,” <em>read</em>
“Melek.”</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#Page_20">20</a>.</td>
<td>line 1. <em>for</em> “danger of fatigue,” <em>read</em> “danger
and fatigue.”</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#Page_32">32</a>.</td>
<td>line 1. for “Mogran,” <em>read</em> “Mogram.”</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#Page_44">44</a>.</td>
<td>line 3. <em>for</em> “Dongolar,” <em>read</em> “Dongolah.”</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#Page_69">69</a>.</td>
<td>line 18. <em>for</em> “monuments,” <em>read</em>
“tablets.”</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#Page_80">80</a>.</td>
<td>line 9. <em>for</em> “in the second row,” <em>read</em> “in the
same row.”</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</td>
<td>line 25. <em>for</em> “eleven,” <em>read</em> “ten.”</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</td>
<td>line 22. <em>for</em> “Psammeticus,” <em>read</em>
“Psammitichus.”</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</td>
<td>line 25. <em>for</em> “Thotmes,” <em>read</em> “Thothmes.”</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#Page_178">178</a>.</td>
<td>the prices of grain in this page are per ardeb.</td>
</tr>
</table>

<hr class="chap">

<div class="figcenterplate">
<figure id="map">
<p class="map"><span class="large120 letter-spaced01 bold sc">The
Nile</span><br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
from Assuan to the<br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
<span class="large letter-spaced">Conflux of the Blue and White
Rivers;</span><br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
<em>Comprising the routes across</em><br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
The Great Nubian and Bahiouda Deserts.<br class=
"x-ebookmaker-drop">
<span class="bold">By G. A. Hoskins, Esq<sup>r</sup>.</span></p>
<a href="images/map_large.jpg"><img src='images/map.jpg' alt=''
class="iw13"></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="ipub tdl"><em>London: London & C<sup>o</sup>.
Paternoster Row. 1835.</em>
</td>
<td class="ipub tdr"><em>J. Arrowsmith.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
</figure>
</div>

<p class="center spaced3 space-above pb"><span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_1">[1]</span><span class="bold large">TRAVELS</span><br>
<span class="vsmall">IN</span><br>
<span class="xxlarge bold"><span class=
"letter-spaced03">ETHIOPI</span>A.</span>
</p>

<div class="figcenter iw15">
<figure id="i01"><a href="images/i01.jpg"><img src='images/i01.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">COTTAGES OF BERBER.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<h2 class="nopb"><a id="c01"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2>

<p class="csum">INTENDED RETURN TO CAIRO. — ARRIVAL OF ARTIST. —
DETERMINATION TO PENETRATE TO MEROE. — MOTIVES. — ADVANTAGES TO BE
DERIVED FROM THE DISCOVERIES OF YOUNG, WILKINSON, CHAMPOLLION, AND
ROSELLINI. — DEPARTURE FROM THEBES. — TURKISH MODE OF FASTING. —
ARRIVAL AT ASSUAN. — HINTS TO TRAVELLERS ON TURKISH ETIQUETTE. —
NAZR OF BERBER. — UNPROMISING ACCOUNTS OF THE DESERT. — DETENTION
FOR WANT OF CAMELS. — SHEAKH OF THE ABABDE TRIBE. — RUINS OF
ELEPHANTINE AND ASSUAN. — BOSNIAN SOLDIERS. — WATER SKINS
DEFECTIVE. — ARRIVAL OF THE CAMELS. — COMMENCEMENT OF THE JOURNEY.
— NUBIAN POVERTY. — CARAVAN FROM KHARTOUN. — CULTIVATION IN LOWER
NUBIA. — SINGULAR AND PICTURESQUE SCENERY. — NUBIAN PEASANTRY AND
THEIR SLAVES. — TURKISH HUMANITY. — ROMAN ENCLOSURE AT DACKER. —
PROVISIONS IN NUBIA. — SIMILARITY OF A MODERN<span class="pagenum"
id="Page_2">[2]</span> AND ANCIENT CUSTOM. — NUBIANS, THEIR
PREJUDICES, POVERTY, FOOD, WANT OF RELIGION, AND DRUNKENNESS —
THEIR DOMESTIC COMFORT, AND COMPARATIVE FREEDOM. — WADY EL ARAB. —
ARRIVAL AT KOROSKO. — PREPARATIONS FOR CROSSING THE GREAT NUBIAN
DESERT. — THE GOVERNOR OF KOROSKO. — DRUNKEN COPTIC SECRETARY.</p>

<p><em>Feb.</em> 1. 1833. <span class="sc">Having</span> spent
twelve months in the valley of the Nile, I had designed to leave
Thebes this week, and return to Cairo. To this long period had an
intended stay of a few weeks been protracted, in consequence of my
daily increasing devotion to the fascinating but laborious study of
Egyptian antiquities. I cannot, however, escape some uncomfortable
feelings when I contrast the prospect now before me, of privation
and dreariness in a long journey through the desert, with the hopes
I had indulged of returning now to Europe, to the enjoyments of
social and domestic intercourse, and the refinements and comforts
of civilised life. My boat was ready, and all preparations made for
my voyage down the Nile, when its direction was changed by the
arrival of Signor Bandoni, a skilful Italian artist, whom I had
long anxiously expected. I then immediately determined to proceed
with my projected journey to the antiquities of Meroe, and thus
complete my investigation of the architectural wonders of the Nile.
Wearied, however, with my previous labours at Thebes, and in the
Oasis Magna, I had felt reluctant to make this arduous attempt
without the assistance of an artist. Had I now lacked courage, the
redoubtable appearance of my Lucchese ally would have inspired me
with resolution to encounter the wildest Bishareen of the Nubian
desert, or the hungriest lion of Ethiopia. The Signor brings with
him his bosom companion, a double-barrelled Spanish
<em>escopette</em>, of awe-inspiring calibre, the destructive
powers of which, he assures me, have been frequently proved upon
the turtle doves in the palm groves of the Nile: he animates me
also with the assurance, that “non ha niente paura;” nor, since his
landing in these barbarous regions, has he yet known bodily fear,
except once, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[3]</span> that
by mistake, when scared by the <em>lion-like</em> roar of a
buffalo, near the base of Pompey’s Pillar. The valley of the Nile,
as far as Wady Halfah, has been described by many. Only six or
seven Europeans have penetrated beyond that cataract; and,
unfortunately, all even of those were not sufficiently acquainted
with Egyptian antiquities, and competent, as artists, to give a
satisfactory description and correct delineations of the
interesting remains which still exist in those remote
regions.<a id="FNanchor_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2" class=
"fnanchor">[2]</a> In using the term acquainted, I do not mean to
state that any person has penetrated very deeply into the mysteries
of Egyptian lore, much less can I pretend to have lifted “the veil
of Isis which no mortal has yet raised;” but even a slight
knowledge of the recent discoveries in hieroglyphics gives to the
traveller of the present day an advantage over, perhaps, even the
most learned travellers who visited this country before the
discoveries of Young, Wilkinson, Champollion, and Rosellini. Egypt
is no longer a field for speculative ingenuity and brilliant
imagination. The daylight has appeared, and the efforts of talent
and perseverance have cleared away many of the difficulties which
obstructed the first labourers in this rich mine of antiquarian
research. Enough is already known of hieroglyphics to make the
subject be duly appreciated by literary men, and we may confidently
expect important information from that source. The drawings which
have hitherto been made in Upper Nubia are considered to be very
inaccurate; much has been left undone, and the hieroglyphics have
been but partially and imperfectly copied; while many of the
inscriptions are totally unknown. Aware of these circumstances, and
also that not a drawing or description of the antiquities of Meroe
has yet been published in England, and hoping that my labours may
be of some service to those interested in these subjects, I leave
Thebes to encounter again the fatigues<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_4">[4]</span> and perils of the desert; but Meroe is before
me, the probable birth-place of the arts and sciences.</p>

<p>I bade adieu, last night, to my kind friends, Mr. and Mrs. Hay,
whose society, attention, and valuable services, have been an
indescribable resource to me during my long residence at Thebes. I
felt how gratifying it is, in setting out on a journey of this
description, to have the warm wishes of others that it may be
successful. “Bring as many drawings as you can,” was the good
advice given to me, and which I intend to follow.</p>

<p>I cannot perform impossibilities, by bringing the antiquities
themselves; but I trust and hope, with the assistance of my camera
lucida, my long experience in drawing that peculiar style of
architecture and sculpture, and last, though not least, the
valuable aid of my excellent Italian artist, Signor B., I shall be
able to bring back drawings and plans which shall have the merit
and value of strict accuracy. But I must disclaim, in the outset,
any idea of adding much to the geographical knowledge of the
interior of Africa. The object of my journey is Meroe, and to
elucidate the existing vestiges of the ancient grandeur of the
kingdom of Ethiopia. The wind this day has been favourable; but
there was so little of it, that our progress has not been
great.</p>

<p><em>Feb.</em> 2. We arrived at Esneh this morning at eight, and
remained until ten. I wished to see the Governor, to procure from
him a letter to the Nazr of Assuan, requesting him to assist me in
procuring camels; but I was told that he was asleep, and would not
be visible till late in the afternoon. It is now the month of
Ramadan, during which the law forbids them to eat or drink before
sunset; however, the Turkish grandees avoid this privation by
turning night into day, sleeping the greater part of the latter,
and devoting the former to business and their pleasures. This
manner of keeping their fast is somewhat similar to the devotee
Peter Pindar describes, who, when sentenced to perform a pilgrimage
with peas in his shoes, wisely took the liberty to boil<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_5">[5]</span> his peas. The wind being
favourable, I could not wait the awakening of the Mahmoor.</p>

<p><em>Assuan.—Feb. 5.</em> In our journey of this and the two
preceding days, we have only had six to seven hours of wind;
however, this afternoon, we arrived at Assuan, and I immediately
waited on the Nazr to procure camels. On entering a Turkish divan,
the traveller is merely required to make a grave bow, placing his
right hand to his left breast, and to seat himself on the divan in
the Turkish style, which, for the information of those readers who
have not been in the country, I should say is exactly that easy
position, which it seems in Europe tailors only are privileged to
assume. When seated, he usually salutes the great man again in the
same manner as before; but if the latter be of very high rank, it
is better to show respect by placing the right hand, first, to the
lips, and then, above the forehead. A few complimentary speeches
are now exchanged; such as “How do you do?” “What a tall man you
are!” “What a fine beard!” “You are like one of us!” Welcome and
thanks. Coffee is then presented to the traveller. The Pasha gives
pipes to noblemen at his own divan only; but every English
gentleman has a right to expect one, or to smoke his own at the
divan of any of his subordinate officers. The Turk, if he is only a
Katshef or Nazr, ought to make a kind of half rise from his seat
when the traveller enters; but it is very seldom that his pride and
desire of appearing a great man in his little court permits him to
show this courtesy. All the Turks possess, or have the power of
assuming, an apparently natural dignity of manner. The liberated
slave, raised suddenly to rank and authority, seems always at his
ease, as if born to the station that he fills. Education, that is,
the having learned with difficulty to read and write a letter of
four or five lines, makes no distinction, being an attainment in
which those of the highest rank are sometimes deficient. I
presented to the Nazr, a common-looking fellow, the Pasha’s firman,
which, as usual, he kissed and<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_6">[6]</span> placed to his forehead. As soon as his Coptic
writer had read it to him, he ordered me a pipe, an attention
previously omitted, and in the mean time offered me his own; but my
servant at that moment entered with mine. I had ordered it, because
my not assuming my right in this trifling etiquette would have made
me less respected, not only by the Nazr and his court, but, what
was of real consequence, by the Arabs, who were to accompany me
across the desert to Berber. Generally I hate etiquette and
ceremony, as the north and north-east winds of society; but I have
found from experience, that with the Turks it is absolutely
necessary to insist upon their observance. Travellers, in their
ignorance of Eastern manners, are generally too humble to them. If
even a Katshef pays them a visit, they rise from their seats and
bow, as often and as low as if he were a monarch. Accordingly, when
they return the visit, they have the mortification to perceive,
that the Turk, misconstruing such European courtesy into
obsequiousness, and an acknowledgment of inferiority, does not even
rise to receive him; but, with a slight condescending nod, desires
his visitor to be seated, and of course has less regard to his
requests in matters of real importance. The days of Burckhardt are
past. The traveller throughout Mohammed Ali’s dominions has now no
occasion to submit to any indignity, or even incivility: his
forbearance will gain him nothing except the consciousness of
having fruitlessly submitted to the contempt of an ignorant and
illiterate barbarian. I have dwelt upon this little circumstance,
from my experience of its importance for the guidance of future
travellers. The Nazr, during the rest of my visit, was profuse in
his offers of services. He informed me, that the Government were
themselves in want of camels; but that I should have the first that
could be procured, which he hoped would be next day. Along with the
Nazr was a Bey, just returned across the desert from Berber. I
could get little information from him; and, indeed, could not ask
many questions of him, as I found he had just been
removed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[7]</span> from the
government in disgrace, on account of extortion. I might have
guessed the cause from his physiognomy, for I have rarely seen so
villainous a countenance. He did not seem neglected in his
adversity, as numbers of Turks were visiting him, each kissing his
hand, and wishing him a speedy return to the favour of the Pasha.
He gave me no flattering description of the desert, telling me I
should feel it bitterly cold at night, and should spend nine or ten
days, without finding any water at all drinkable. The sorry
condition of his camels, too, strongly confirmed the truth of this
account.</p>

<p><em>Feb.</em> 6. I heard this morning, with surprise, that I
should probably have to wait a week longer before procuring camels.
Knowing the Turks to be adepts at procrastination, I went to the
Nazr, and urged the necessity of my starting immediately. At my
request, he sent for the Sheakh of the Ababdes, the tribe who
provide camels to caravans and travellers for the journey between
Assuan and Makkarif, the capital of Berber. They act also as
carriers to the Red Sea, the Oasis Magna, along the Nile to
Dongolah, and also across the western side of the great Nubian
desert. The residence of the Sheakh being two hours distant, he did
not arrive before this evening. I was agreeably struck with his
appearance; he was a man of middle size; extremely regular
features; a calm and dignified manner; a benevolent, and at the
same time noble, expression of countenance. His dress was
remarkably neat and clean. His turban and long linen gown were
beautifully white and of good materials. He promised us that we
should have camels the next day, and we agreed that the price
should be seventy piastres for the use of each during the journey
to Makkarif, where, it is said, we shall arrive in twenty days. It
is rather annoying to be thus detained, since every day is of
consequence, the season being so far advanced; but it is some
consolation that our time has not been quite lost. The island of
Elephantine is no longer adorned with temples. Some ruins of walls,
a rude statue of Osiris, slight traces of the temple of Chnubis,
and the Nilometer,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[8]</span> are
all the remains which now exist. The northern part resembles a
garden ornamented with beautiful groves of palm trees and the
richest cultivation. Syene offers still less to interest the
antiquarian, but much to strengthen the believer in Holy Writ. The
prophetic denunciation of Ezekiel is fulfilled. The tower of Syene
has truly fallen from the pride of her power. The ruin of a pier,
partly Roman but chiefly Arab, and an insignificant fragment of a
temple, are the only vestiges of this once important city. Yet the
natural scenery around is still beautiful, and the views from it,
as well as from the Island of Elephantine, are the most lovely in
Egypt. The castle of Syene, built by the Bosnian soldiers, forms,
even in its ruined state, a highly picturesque object. Several of
the descendants of the Bosnian soldiers are living at Assuan, and
in Lower Nubia. I met with one as far south as Amarah.<a id=
"FNanchor_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p>

<p><em>Feb.</em> 7. No camels are arrived; we are obliged,
therefore, to delay another day. This requires some patience, when
every thing is prepared for our expedition. I superintended this
morning the filling of the skins with water: I am sorry to find
them very indifferent, although the best I could procure.</p>

<p><em>Philæ.—Feb.</em> 9. After repeated applications to the
Governor, I have procured at last nine camels and two dromedaries
for ourselves. Any complaint of this delay would be unreasonable,
otherwise than as a misfortune. Several Turks in the employment of
the Pasha have been detained for want of them during this last
fortnight; notwithstanding which, from their knowledge of his
favour for travellers, they have given me the preference. Our
start, however, is at last made. I have been very anxious to leave
Assuan, having perceived an increasing disinclination on the part
of my artist and servants to undertake the journey. The tales of
some<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[9]</span> Arab merchants
have excited among them so much alarm, that all my powers of
persuasion and remonstrance were necessary to keep them from
defection. They have unfortunately heard the exclamations of some
of my old Nubian friends, the Rais of the Cataract and others, when
I told them I was going to Shendy. “Wonderful! God is great! but
are you not afraid to go into such a hot country, where it rains
fire?” It has been no easy task to persuade them that a passage of
eight or ten days over a desert, without water, and of twenty days
without intermission on the backs of camels, can be an easy
undertaking. I hope, for their sakes, we shall not have to suffer
much: as to myself, I feel more indifferent. I am going to Meroe;
and the idea of the desert, notwithstanding Burckhardt’s, and still
more Bruce’s, description of it, does not damp my ardour.</p>

<p><em>Sail on the Nile.—Feb.</em> 10. We left Philæ this morning
at half past seven, entered into the mountains, and at three
o’clock descended again into the valley of the Nile; at a quarter
to six, we pitched our tents on the banks of the river. The
mountains we have passed are of the same character as at the
cataract, chiefly of syenite, the exterior of which is darkened by
the sun. The formation consists of the same round blocks, appearing
at a distance as disjoined. The place where we are encamped, and
indeed all the country we have traversed to-day, is miserably poor.
The strip of cultivated land is not an eighth of a mile in breadth.
Barley, cotton, and <em>sherangig</em> are all that the country
produces. The latter, which forms the chief food of the Nubian, is
a hard disagreeable kind of pea, which no culinary art can render
palatable to European taste. We have passed several small villages,
each containing from ten to twenty houses. This morning we met a
troop of cavalry from Khartoun, which had passed the desert, of
which they gave us any thing but an encouraging description. They
say we shall be ten days in crossing it; and “take care of your
water” is their constant advice. The same admonition
has<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[10]</span> been dunned in
our ears more than a hundred times since the day that we arrived at
Assuan.</p>

<p><em>Marwal.—Feb.</em> 11. We set out this morning at half past
seven, and proceeded, for some time, on the banks of the river.
Nearly opposite to the small temple of Kardassy, we again turned
into the mountains. There the granite chain suddenly ceases, and
the hills are of sandstone, until opposite Tafey, where again, for
a short space, they are of granite, and then of sandstone. Arriving
at the district of Kalabshy, I found the mountains partially
composed of sandstone, and immediately afterwards of granite. The
belt of cultivated land, on both sides of the river, is always
extremely narrow, seldom above fifty paces wide; and sometimes the
rocks extend to the water, scarcely leaving a narrow and dangerous
path. My own camel fell, and also the one conveying the baggage.
This is the first time that such an accident has occurred to me
with these animals; and I ought to add, not to have the appearance
of contradicting what I have elsewhere said, that any horse, or
even mule, would have run considerable risk of stumbling over these
slippery granite rocks. Before leaving Assuan, a fortune-teller
came to my tent: being busy at the time, I ordered her away rather
angrily. In her rage, she exclaimed that I should fall from my
camel. I did not expect that her malediction would be so soon
fulfilled. I had quite forgotten the circumstance; but my Arabs,
shaking their heads, soon reminded me of it. My fall might have
been serious, as such accidents with this animal generally are, if
the creature had rolled immediately; but, the instant it stumbled,
I leaped off, and escaped unhurt. Barley, sherangig, and cotton are
the only productions I have observed this day: they are often
mingled together, in patches, upon the same field. I observed the
peasants breaking the sandstone and spreading it on the ground. The
best way of seeing to advantage the scenery on the Nile is,
certainly, to ride on its banks: in a boat the effect is lost. The
finest view we have had<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_11">[11]</span> this morning, was in descending from the
mountains opposite Tafey. The basalt and red but exteriorly
dark-coloured granite, contrasted with the light red sand of the
desert, similar rocks and sands in the distance, in the midst the
serpentine river with its verdant banks, adorned with groves of
palm trees and the interesting remains of temples, all illumined
with the clearest blue sky and the most gorgeous sunset, formed
often a scene to which few painters could do justice. Though not
romantic nor strikingly picturesque, according to the original
import of those terms, yet the extraordinary contrast and magical
effect produced by this wonderful combination of brilliant colours,
are magnificent, and present almost insuperable difficulties to the
artist who attempts faithfully to delineate such a landscape. Three
hours before arriving here, we passed the small village of Abaho,
in which I counted nearly thirty houses. The inhabitants are
evidently wretchedly poor; however, they enjoy the luxury of
idleness. Very few seemed engaged in any occupation. One woman I
observed spinning cotton and two or three busy about their domestic
concerns; but the many were enjoying <em>il dolce fur niente</em>
of the Italians. They were almost all miserably clad; the clothes
of both sexes were in rags, the children naked, and girls from
fourteen to sixteen, with beautiful forms, and extremely graceful
and elegant in their movements, had merely a covering which
extended from the waist to a little above the knee. This ceinture,
or <em>rat</em>, as it is called in Arabic, is made of thin thongs
of hippopotamus hide, and fancifully ornamented with beads and
small shells. The number of thongs is so great, that it fully
serves its purpose as a covering. They wear it till they are
married; an event, however, which often takes place before they are
twelve years of age.</p>

<p><em>Dacker.—Feb.</em> 12. We left the village of Marwal at
seven, and encamped here at sunset. Our route has this day, also,
been alternately in the mountains and on the banks of
the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[12]</span> river. We observe
the same poverty, the same sterility; villages of about a dozen
houses each, constructed, in the rudest manner, of stones piled on
each other. The cultivated land on the banks is never more than
fifty paces wide, often not twenty, and in some parts the barren
rocks extend to the river. We met, this morning, another troop of a
cavalry regiment, returning by the desert from Khartoun. We shall,
no doubt, meet traces of their passage,—dead camels, if not men.
Some of their animals could scarcely crawl, and one of them dropped
on the ground unable to proceed any farther. The master, a Turk,
seemed very much concerned; but whether for the value of the beast,
or real attachment to his fellow traveller, I will not decide; yet,
in justice to his humanity, I must relate, that, when the Arabs
wished to stab and cut it up for food, he refused his consent.
Finding, however, that it was impossible the animal could proceed,
or even live many hours, he ordered his servant to shoot it with
his musket. This showed some feeling; for had he left it to die on
the road, the Arabs would have killed it with their knives, and
then could lawfully have eaten it. They were very much disappointed
at being deprived of their repast, and considered it quite a waste
of valuable food. We have passed the village and temple of Dandour
(on the other bank), and are now encamped opposite the temple and
village of Dacker.<a id="FNanchor_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4"
class="fnanchor">[4]</a> Adjoining is a Roman inclosure of large
extent with towers, constructed of unburnt bricks. There are no
traces of a temple within the inclosure; but contiguous to the
south-east corner are some fragments of a room still adorned with
hieroglyphics and sculpture, but too much defaced for us to
discover the subject. The style is very wretched, and evidently
Roman. Mountains of hornblende and sandstone.</p>

<p><em>Wady el Elayat.—Feb.</em> 13. We quitted Dacker this
morning,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[13]</span> soon after
sunrise, and have encamped this evening in a small valley near the
river, and, as is generally the custom of the caravans, close to a
village. There is not much provision to be procured from a Nubian
village, frequently not even eggs and fowls. A half-starved sheep
or kid may sometimes be purchased, but at a much higher price than
in Upper Egypt. Yet there is no uniformity in the rates: you have a
sheep one day for six piastres; and the next, perhaps at only
thirty miles’ distance off, you must pay twelve, or even more, for
one not larger. This arises, of course, from the poverty of the
land, and the very little communication which exists between the
different villages. My servants and camel-drivers like to chat with
the women; and, perhaps, near the villages we are less annoyed by
the wolves than we might be at a greater distance, the dogs of the
peasants affording a certain protection, though I have often heard
them snuffing around my tent. We have passed this morning the
village of Uffidunia: the temple of that name is on the opposite
side of the river. Our track has chiefly followed the banks of the
Nile, but the views have not been very pleasing. The mountains
consist chiefly of a soft sandstone, the surface of which is very
much darkened by the sun. We have met another troop of the cavalry
from Khartoun. The soldiers have all male or female slaves; some
for their own service, others on speculation for the Cairo market.
The women are almost entirely covered; sometimes I could
distinguish a fine black eye glancing from under the coverings, but
it is not considered decorous to notice them much. This etiquette,
which still prevails so generally in the East, is the same ancient
custom by which Themistocles profited to facilitate his escape to
the Persian king. We are encamped at the borders of the province
called Wady el Elayat.</p>

<p><em>Sungar.—Feb.</em> 14. We have been eleven hours in the
district of El Elayat. We left the small village at the
commencement of the Wady this morning at seven, and encamped here
at sunset.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[14]</span> This is
the last village of the Wady. We have suffered more from fatigue
than before; the road, or rather path, having led for a long time
over the hills. Immediately after starting, we left the valley of
the Nile for an hour and a half. That part of the road was not very
fatiguing. We passed Seboua at eleven, and at two P.M. left the
Nile, and were obliged to alight from our camels and climb the
mountain, for three hours, over the most difficult paths we have
yet met with. A notion prevails in Europe, that camels are
incapable of crossing rough mountainous and stony roads; I can only
say that, upon this rocky, and sometimes steep path, none of our
camels fell; had we used horses, the difficulty would certainly
have been as great, particularly when heavy loads were upon their
backs. I would not have ventured to ride over, even on a mule. The
mountains are of sandstone, some also of hornblende. I sketched,
this evening, a native of this district, my dragoman in the mean
time keeping him in conversation till I finished my sketch, without
his having any suspicion what I was doing. All the Nubians have a
superstitious prejudice against having their portraits drawn. I
made some enquiries about the village, its name, the number of
houses, and of inhabitants, &amp;c. The poor peasants imagined I
was employed by the Pasha to take an account of the country.
Apprehensive that I should cause their taxes to be raised, they
gave me a lamentable description of their poverty, saying that
there were indeed eleven houses, but they were all tumbling to
pieces; that they were miserably poor; had scarcely a rag to cover
them; that their land did produce some little cotton and barley,
but if I caused their taxes to be increased, they could not
subsist, but must absolutely die of starvation. Man here may be
said only to vegetate. He drags on, from day to day, a miserable
existence, living on the coarsest food, and ignorant of any
comfort. In examining, however, more closely, we find the peasants
of Nubia possessing some great advantages over those of Lower and
Upper Egypt. Their domestic comfort is decidedly greater.
Their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[15]</span> women, unlike
those of Egypt, have always their faces uncovered, and enjoy in
other respects much freedom; while that depravity as regards both
sexes, which pervades the whole land of Egypt, is almost utterly
unknown in these Nubian villages. They are also less oppressed;
and, thanks to the poverty of their country, less annoyed by the
presence of their rulers. Their predominant vice is drinking
immoderately of bouza and arracki. There being only three mosques
from the first to the second cataract, a distance of more than 220
miles, and their almost total deficiency of religious instruction,
are perhaps some excuse for their violating, in this respect, so
openly, and to such an excess, the precepts of the Koran.</p>

<p><em>Korosko.—Feb.</em> 15. We arrived at this village at ten
o’clock. Here again commences a Nubian dialect, but different from
the Kenous, above the first cataract. The district of Wady el
Elayat, or Wady el Arabi, which we passed through yesterday, is the
division between these two Nubian tribes. We have allowed our
camels to rest this afternoon, previous to commencing to-morrow
morning the fatigues, perils, and privations of the Great Desert:
they are making the last hearty meal which they will enjoy for some
time; the Ababdes are filling the water skins, while my servants
are employed in foraging for provisions; no easy task in a Nubian
village. Mr. B. has made me a view in colours of the extraordinary
effect of the scenery in Nubia, produced by the wonderful contrast
between the dark hills and the bright yellow sands, fringed with
strips of the beautiful verdure on the banks of the river. The
Governor, an Effendi, paid me a visit in my tent, and frankly asked
me for several things which he saw, and fancied; which I as frankly
refused. The visits of inferior Turks are always annoyances: it is
very seldom that any information can be obtained from them, and
their impertinence is without bounds. I was amused by his
secretary, a Copt, who complained that he was affected by a pain in
his chest when the weather was cold. I gave him some flannel, which
I could ill spare, also some medicine; and, with<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_16">[16]</span> other advice, I told him most
peremptorily that he must drink no arracki (spirit). This last
injunction disconcerted him exceedingly; and his master laughed
heartily at an advice which he knew to be so unwelcome to his
jovial secretary. I told him it would kill him. “Well,” said he,
“if it kills me, <em>maktoob min Allah!</em> it is written, but
drink I must.” In the evening, he came to me again, half
intoxicated. As I offered him no beverage, except coffee, he soon,
with a cunning smile and an expressive nod, pulled out of his
pocket a small bottle of excellent arracki and a little cup. I did
not wish to offend the fellow, having occasion to leave some boxes
in his charge until my return, and therefore endured his company
for some time. At last, his intoxication increasing, he was quite
insupportable, and I was obliged to desire my servant to turn him
out. His good-humour did not forsake him, nor did he seem at all
offended; coolly observing, that he was sorry I was tired of his
company.</p>

<hr class="chap">

<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[17]</span><a id=
"c02"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2>

<p class="csum">COMMENCEMENT OF THE JOURNEY ACROSS THE GREAT NUBIAN
DESERT. — DESCRIPTION OF THE CARAVAN. — ADVANTAGES OF TURKISH DRESS
AND CUSTOMS. — PROVISIONS NECESSARY FOR THE DESERT. — AKABA, OR
MOUNTAIN PASSES. — DEAD CAMELS. — FEAR OF ROBBERS. — ANXIETY ABOUT
THE STOCK OF WATER. — ARAB OPINION OF TRAVELLERS. — ALARMING
DIMINUTION OF OUR WATER. — DEAD BODIES OF SLAVES AND CAMELS. —
HOJAB EL JENOUS. — BAB EL KOROSKO. — AGE OF THE CAMEL. — BAHR BELA
MA, OR SEA WITHOUT WATER. — MERAGE. — PERILS AND CHARMS OF THE
DESERT LIFE. — DILET EL DOOM, VALLEY OF THE SHADE OF THE DOOMS. —
GOLD MINES. — OMRISHI SUFIR. — WELLS NOW DRY. — EL MURRAH, OR THE
WELL OF BITTER WATERS. — HIEROGLYPHICS ON THE ROCKS. — COLONY OF
BISHAREEN. — HEIGHT AND CHARACTER OF THE MOUNTAINS. — ARAB SONGS. —
GAZELLE. — DANGER OF LEAVING CARAVAN. — ABSAH GOLD MINES. — STORMS
IN THE DESERT. — CAMBYSES. — BRUCE. — ARAB MANNER OF MOUNTING THE
CAMEL. — MANNER IN WHICH THE ARABS REPOSE. — ARRIVAL AT THE NILE. —
ESTIMATE OF THE LENGTH OF THE ROUTE AND GENERAL PACE OF THE
CAMEL.</p>

<p class="nind"><em><span class="sc">The</span> Great Nubian
Desert.—Feb.</em> 16. This morning, at eight o’clock, we left
Korosko, and entered the Desert. Having omitted until now giving a
description of my caravan, I may mention, as useful to future
travellers, the provisions and equipments which may be considered
as necessary for a journey of this description. Both my artist,
Signor B. and myself, wear the Turkish Nizam uniform. A traveller
might, without much risk, retain his European dress; but it is most
prudent and desirable to adopt the Turkish, as being the best
suited, not only to the climate, but also to serve the important
object of commanding respect. Those travellers who refuse this
tribute to the customs of the country pay dear for their prejudice.
If it does not expose them to frequent insult, they are at all
events less esteemed by the natives; and they lose a decided
advantage, in not having the comfort and<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_18">[18]</span> luxury of a dress so admirably suited to the
climate and manners of the East. Our unnatural tight trousers,
waistcoats, and coats, with their padding, braces, straps, starch,
stiffners, and stocks, in a tropical country would be intolerable.
Another advantage of this comfortable and graceful costume is, that
it enables you to repose with ease in any position. To sit bolt
upright, on a hard chair, in such a latitude as this, is what no
one could endure, who had experienced the luxurious ease of the
Turkish divan. The rest of my caravan consisted of a guide (Habeer)
on his dromedary; a very picturesque-looking fellow. Besides the
usual arms of the Arabs, the long spear, sword, and shield of the
hippopotamus, he had also a brace of pistols attached to his
saddle, which he took great pride in displaying. He was very
independent, and conscious of the importance of his office, so that
I was afraid at starting he would not have been so manageable as I
afterwards found him. My dragoman, Mahomet Abdini, a native of
Cairo, was the cleverest servant I ever knew in any country: his
wily tongue and insinuating address were often of more service to
me than my piastres. I had, besides, a Greek servant, named
Ibrahim, alias Michele; a Mahometan with the Arabs and Turks, and a
Christian with his own countrymen. He speaks Italian fluently, and
also the Turkish, Greek, and Arabic. He is the musician of the
party; and his singing, accompanied by his fiddle, is vastly
agreeable to the natives, but, being in the harsh style of the
modern Greeks, is grating to my ears. I had, besides, a Copt, who
had served me long and usefully at Thebes, in the dignified station
of umbrella-bearer. Including, therefore, our Ababdes, owners of
the camels, the full complement of my little caravan amounts to
twelve persons and eleven camels. My stock of provisions chiefly
consists of a large sack of Cairo biscuit, and another of rice.
Besides these two chief requisites, and also charcoal, I have a
good supply of groceries, tea, sugar, coffee, and wax candles, and
last, but most important, twenty geerbahs of water, which I expect
will be amply sufficient for the<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_19">[19]</span> eight days of desert journey, though the
Signor has forewarned me, most anxiously, more than fifty times,
<em>che beve molto</em>. This is the desert in which Bruce and
Burckhardt suffered so much. They took the easterly and more direct
track, which commences at Deroueh, a little below Assuan, and
therefore had a longer space to traverse, with, however, the
advantage of meeting repeatedly with good water. At a quarter past
six, P.M., we encamped. Our road this day has been through a
succession of narrow valleys, called Akaba, or mountain passes, and
small plains, bounded by low picturesque hills. The valleys are
covered with sand, in some places two feet deep, but generally much
less, and sometimes the bare rock is visible. Sandstone forms the
base of the valley and of the hills. There are, however, some of
slate, varying from 150 to 180 feet in height. I observed a great
variety in their forms. We have already met with a few of the
horrors of the desert, particularly numbers of dead camels, some of
which had perished lately, and vultures were feeding on their
carcases. They seem also to have attracted the hyænas from their
dens, as I discerned on the sand numerous traces of those animals.
Some of our water-skins, I am sorry to find, are bad. I marvel
Signor B. did not perceive this at Korosko, as he took an active
part in tying them up. The journey from Assuan has injured them,
yet, with care, I hope to have a sufficient supply. This evening
the camel men objected to pitching my tent, saying that they were
afraid of robbers. I did not yield to their alarms, as sleeping in
the open air is an Eastern custom which I am not much inclined to
try at this season of the year. I cannot conceive a tent to be much
additional attraction to Arab plunderers, if there are any; but the
depredations upon the water, I fear, are by my own Ababdes, as
their own supply is small. I have, therefore, caused all the
geerbahs to be carried into my tent. If we run short, and have to
suffer, it shall not be for want of precautions. While my camel men
were thus occupied, one of them asked me why I was subjecting
myself<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[20]</span> to the danger
and fatigue of such a journey, when I was rich enough to stay at
home. The Arabs are now not so much surprised at travellers going
to Wady Halfah. So many make that journey, that it is no longer a
novelty; besides that, the Cangias (boats of the Nile), though any
thing but agreeable to Europeans, appear luxurious to the peasants.
They can easily conceive the pleasure of sailing in what they
consider delightful conveyances, listening to the songs of the
boatmen, smoking all the day, and eating and drinking of the best
the villages can afford; but that travellers should voluntarily
expose themselves to the fatigues and heat of the desert,
apparently for the sake of a few old stones, is to them quite
incomprehensible.</p>

<p><em>Desert.—Feb.</em> 17. A fearful accident has befallen us. To
our utter dismay, four of our largest geerbahs are empty, the water
having leaked out during the night. The skins are old, although the
best we could procure at Assuan. The rest seem good: Heaven grant
that they may prove so! the consequences of another such accident
might be fatal. We have passed to-day the bodies of seven human
beings who have doubtless recently perished from thirst and
fatigue; we have seen also dead camels without number. We have
travelled twelve hours through valleys of the same character as
those we passed yesterday. Some of the hills might be from 230 to
250 feet in height, but the greater number from 100 to 150 feet.
Many, like those of yesterday, are isolated, and some standing in
the centre of the valleys. They consist chiefly of slate, but some
are of sandstone. They are called Hojab el Jenous, from there being
several representations of buffaloes drawn on the rocks by some
rude artists, probably Arabs. The valleys are almost entirely
covered with sand, on which I found many round balls, of the form
of peaches, of iron glance. At sunset we left the valleys, the last
hills of which are rather higher than the others, and are called
Bab el Korosko, or the Gate of Korosko, and encamped behind a small
hill, at the commencement<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_21">[21]</span> of a large sandy plain, called Atmoor Bahr
Bela Ma, that is, the sea without water. We have been twenty-two
hours <em>en route</em> in these valleys, which I consider not less
than sixty miles, from the rate we have travelled. The Ababdes
occasionally sing to animate their camels. The effect in
accelerating their speed is quite extraordinary. First one
camel-driver sings a verse, then the others answer in chorus. It
reminded me somewhat of the Venetian gondoliers.<a id=
"FNanchor_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> I
noticed that they lingered near the bodies of the dead camels,
being apparently more affected by them than by those of the slaves.
The latter they perhaps knew not, while the camels were old
acquaintances. I have often made attempts to learn the age which
this animal usually attains, but have never been able fully to
ascertain it. The general answer is, a hundred years. By examining
and tracing the traditionary stories on the subject, I am led to
conceive their span of life equal to that of man, and subject to
similar frequent contingencies from different causes, such as
extremes of heat and cold, excessive fatigue, and particularly the
great neglect of the owners. This evening I have bestowed great
pains on the preservation of the water, having suspended the
suspicious geerbahs in my tent.</p>

<p><em>Feb.</em> 18. We mounted our camels this morning at half
past six, and have had an exceedingly fatiguing ride of thirteen
hours, forty miles, without any repose, struggling through one
immense down of sand. There were some small hills of sandstone,
with occasional thin layers of gypsum. The sand was very fatiguing
for the camels: on its surface I found disseminated many of the
round balls of iron flint, or iron glance, varying from four to
eight inches in circumference. Their exterior is often uneven. I
found, also, some balls, hollow like the others, and occasionally
two united together. These were silicious<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_22">[22]</span> conglomerates. I observed, also, numerous
quartzose pebbles, and some fragments of white marble, the only
specimens I have seen in this desert. The mountains are chiefly of
slate. We have suffered very much from the fatigue of this day’s
journey, and have still five days’ march through this waterless
desert. The only object to interest me, and relieve the weariness
of mind and body, has been the merage, so often described. Some
travellers state that this phenomenon has deceived them repeatedly.
This I am surprised at, since its peculiar appearance, joined to
its occurrence in a desert where the traveller is too forcibly
impressed with the recollection that no lakes or standing pools
exist, would appear to me to prevent the possibility, that he who
has once seen it can be a second time deceived. Still this does not
diminish the beauty of the phenomenon:—to see amidst burning sands
and barren hills an apparently beautiful lake, perfectly calm, and
unruffled by any breeze, reflecting in its bosom the surrounding
rocks, is, indeed, an interesting and wonderful spectacle; but it
is a tantalising sight to the Arabs traversing the desert on foot,
always with a scanty supply of water, and often, owing to their
great imprudence, wholly destitute of it. There is much of the
sublime to elevate, and of real danger to excite the mind, in the
passage of the Desert: the boundless plains of sand, the thought of
the distance from the habitations of man, and from the most common
necessaries of life, the perpetual apprehension of falling short of
water, and the certainty, that whoever, from fatigue or illness, is
unable to keep pace with the caravan, will at once, with a camel
and his share of the provision, be abandoned to his fate. And what
a fate! Few left in this manner ever reach their destination. My
Ababdes seem, also, to have a great fear of the Bishareen, who
occasionally plunder the caravans. These alarms produce a certain
excitement, which calls forth all the energy of the traveller: but
were these dangers tenfold greater than they really are, the
thought that I am<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[23]</span>
approaching nearer and nearer to Meroe would sufficiently animate
my courage.</p>

<p><em>Feb.</em> 19. We mounted our camels this morning at six, and
at eleven we left the Bahr Bela Ma, which we had been eighteen
hours in crossing (fifty-four miles). Our road began to wind
amongst the mountains. The first valley we passed was of
considerable breadth, and contained great numbers of doom and
acacia trees. The former were not very large, bearing no fruit, and
apparently drooping for want of water. In this valley, which is
called Dilet el Doom, or Valley of the Shade of the Dooms, I
observed traces of torrents. Three hours to the east of it, I am
informed that there are appearances of exhausted gold mines, of the
habitations of the miners, and the stones used by them in procuring
the precious metal. The Arabs informed me that the rain falls here
chiefly at the rising of the Nile, but that last year there was
none, otherwise we should have seen herbage on the hills;—that
twenty-four hours is sufficient to produce it. This valley has the
appearance of having once been cultivated; but I could discover no
remaining trace of habitations. They tell me that the Bishareen,
when there is pasture on the hills, lead here their flocks, and
pitch their tents in this pretty valley. Perhaps, when Ethiopia was
more populous, and before the gold mines were exhausted, this road
was much frequented; and probably, by sinking wells (for I feel
persuaded that water might be found in these valleys), and by
forming small colonies at suitable stations, a safe and rapid
communication may have existed between the centre and extremity of
the kingdom. A short distance out of the direct road is a well
called Omrisha, now dry, but which contains water during the rainy
season. About an hour and a half beyond this is another well,
called Sufir, now also dry. The mountains consist generally of
flinty slate, some few of sandstone. Their forms are broken, and
very picturesque. At two o’clock we passed through a chain of
hills, by a road which has evidently<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_24">[24]</span> been artificially formed. This is another
proof that pains have been taken by a more civilised people to
diminish the difficulties of travelling in this region. At four
P.M. we entered the valley of the spring called El Murrah, or the
Well of Bitter Waters, the only one in the Desert that is not now
dry; we encamped for the night, that our camels might have time to
drink, and our men to repose. On one of the rocks of the valley of
the spring are some hieroglyphics. I distinguished the name of the
god Horus, and the hawk, the emblem of that divinity. There are
four wells within a few feet of each other, all exceedingly salt,
and considered by the Arab merchants and Turks as very unwholesome.
One, however, is much better than the others. The Arabs and camels
drink of this, and we have filled some of our water-skins, in case
the stock from the Nile should not be sufficient; otherwise we
shall not use it, as it is extremely salt, and strongly impregnated
with iron. One of my servants, not content with his allowance of
the water of the Nile, drank a large cup of it, which caused nausea
and severe purging for some time afterwards. It has not the same
effect on the Ababdes, who apparently enjoy it as much as their
camels. There are six families of Bishareen stationed here, who
attend to cleaning the wells from sand. The Pasha placed them in
this valley, but gives them no allowance. They possess camels, with
which they trade, and supply the merchants who need these animals.
All the caravans give them a trifle. They live in tents made of
mats; and their wild appearance, extraordinary head-dress, yet fine
features, quite accord with our idea of dwellers in the desert. The
nauseous salt water is their only beverage, but does not seem to
disagree with them. I never beheld a more sad picture of savagery
and desolation than their encampment. The Arab tribes, even the
most remote, cannot be called savages, since they speak one of the
richest and most beautiful languages in the world, and many of them
are versed in the Koran; but the harsh and uncouth gibberish of
these wild Bishareen is only intelligible<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_25">[25]</span> to themselves. They inhabit tracts of
country, where Nature seems almost to deny them a subsistence; and
not even the terror of the Pasha’s vengeance can restrain their
predatory propensities. A European must have powerful protection
from their own chiefs to venture into their inhospitable wilds. The
traveller who has little of novelty to interest his attention in
the dreary desert cannot readily dispel the gloomy impression
forced on his mind by contemplating man in this his lowest
condition. When he reflects on the abject state of these naked
Bishareen, their ignorance of religious principles, of all
intellectual and civilised enjoyments, the scanty and precarious
means by which their life is supported: a dish of coarse unground
dourah, moistened by water of the most disgusting quality; a
miserable tent their only shelter from the tropical sun, and from
the nightly cold, so bitter in these regions, and so painful from
its contrast with the mid-day heat: he is astonished at the
physical phenomenon, that the constitution of man can endure so
much privation; and he cannot but admire the mysteries of
Providence, when he sees a human being of like capacities and
passions with himself content and happy in a state so slightly
removed from the condition of the brute.</p>

<p><em>Feb.</em> 20. This morning, at six, we left the Bishareen
quite in joyance at having received a trifle more than the
customary gift of a few piasters, and delighted with the privilege
of scrambling for a few pieces of broken glass, which had been
thrown out of my tent. I should state that last night, and also for
two hours before we set out this morning, they had stationed
themselves close to our encampment, like wild animals seeking their
prey. Three quarters of an hour after our departure from the well,
we left the mountains, and our road then lay over an immense plain
of sand, sometimes very difficult for the camels to wade through,
but generally not very soft, and indeed, occasionally quite hard.
This plain, which is ten hours, or thirty miles,<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_26">[26]</span> in extent, is almost entirely
surrounded by hills. The width varies from about ten to fifteen
miles. At five P.M. we again entered into the mountains, and waded
through several narrow valleys, containing acacia trees. At six,
that is, after twelve hours’ ride, we encamped. The mountains,
called Cab el Kofas, or the Spilling of the baskets, particularly
one about 400 feet high, at the entrance of this chain, are very
picturesque. The effect of a tropical sunset upon them was
magnificent. Their general height was about 200 feet, and some were
of less altitude. Their form was generally a long continuous chain,
with peaks of various forms. I observed some in the distance
totally isolated, and having the appearance of pyramids. We should
not have passed this plain so rapidly but for the common custom of
the Arabs, before mentioned, of urging on their camels by singing:
the effect is very extraordinary; this musical excitement increases
their pace at least one fourth. I often asked the camel drivers to
sing, not only to hasten our progress, but also for the pleasure of
hearing their simple melodies. Some of their best songs possess a
plaintive sweetness that is almost as touching as the most
exquisite European airs. The words are often beautiful, generally
simple and natural, being improvisatory effusions. The following is
a very imperfect specimen. One takes up the song:—“Ah, when shall I
see my family again; the rain has fallen, and made a canal between
me and my home. Oh, shall I never see it more?” The reply to this
and similar verses was always made by the chorus, in words such as
these:—“Oh, what pleasure, what delight, to see my family again;
when I see my father, mother, brothers, sisters, I will hoist a
flag on the head of my camel for joy!” I asked a fine, handsome
lad, who was singing this <em>ranz des vaches</em> of the desert
with the feeling of a Swiss, if he would go with me to England, to
my village. He asked me how long I had been absent; I told him
three years. “No,” said he, “I cannot go with you; if I were to be
absent from my family three years, I<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_27">[27]</span> should be very unhappy—I should be ill.” Near
the place where we are encamped is another well, now dry.</p>

<p><em>Feb.</em> 21. We set out this morning at seven, and
proceeded through defiles in the mountains, which at eleven we
quitted. The valleys we passed through, for the first four hours,
were strewed with quartz, a common kind of porphyry, and fragments
of indurated clay slate, approaching to rubbarid jasper. The
mountains were chiefly of flinty slate and hornblende. There are a
few acacia trees in the valley, and here and there dried up grass.
Among the latter we started a gazelle, which Mr. B. and I pursued
round an isolated hill at the entrance of a large plain. We could
scarcely have lost ourselves, particularly as I had a compass in my
pocket; but, on our rejoining the caravan, the Habeer warned us not
to leave it again, and told us many instances of Turks and others
having been lost by following the gazelles into the mountains. A
Nazr and Katshef perished, very recently, by their imprudent
eagerness in chasing the animals through their winding valleys.
Some time afterwards, a particular search having been made, they
were found dead a considerable distance from the road, their hands
clenched, apparently in the last agonies of that most horrid of
deaths, which is produced by thirst. This creature might have been
fancied our evil genius in the guise of a gazelle, tempting us to
destruction; for, scarcely did we come within sight of the graceful
coquette, than she bounded off, and, after a short career, stopped
again.</p>

<div class="linegrp-container">
<div class="linegrp">
<div class="group">
<div class="line indent6"><span class=
"linethrough word-spaced2em">&nbsp;</span>“Lasciva puella:</div>

<div class="line indent0">Et fugit ad salices, et se cupit antè
videri.”—<em>Buc.</em> iii.</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>

<p class="nind">She continued to lead us on in this wanton manner,
until we were aware that we had wandered from the road further than
was prudent. At last, she ran towards some narrow defiles; but we
did not allow our ardour for the chase to carry us further.
Although conscious we were in the direction the caravan must take,
we did<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[28]</span> not see it for
some time, and felt a strange inquietude on finding ourselves
alone, destitute, and helpless, in the midst of this immense
desert. I fired my gun, and, the signal being answered, our
uneasiness was relieved. Towards the end of this chain of hills,
about two hours’ journey east of the direct road, is a place called
Absah, where there are traces of gold mines, and, as at the one at
the same distance from the valley of the dooms, numerous remains of
habitations, but apparently not very ancient. The stones with which
they were worked remain, and there are wells now dry. The Arabs
keep them a great secret, and will take no traveller to visit them,
unless he has a particular order from the Pasha, and is protected
by one of their chiefs. M. Bonomi, who enjoyed these advantages,
will, I hope, soon give us an account of them. The result, I
believe, of his investigation was, that they are now so exhausted,
that they would not repay the labour of working. At eleven we
entered a large sandy plain, and at four P.M. we passed some hills
of a pyramidal shape. They are of syenite, and their formation is
similar to the round granite rocks of the First Cataract. They are
called El Talati Greibat—the Three Greibat—from their being at a
distance apparently only three. They extend considerably towards
the east; but some of them are so low as to be nearly covered with
the sand. North-east of these I observed some hills of the same
conical form, called Adaramat; but I was at too great a distance
from them to perceive whether they were of granite. After eleven
hours’ ride, we encamped in the plain at six. The wind is very
high; I am almost afraid of my tent being carried away. For several
days I have been on the look out, thinking it possible that on
these light sandy plains I might see some of Bruce’s pillars of
moving sand; but I have not been favoured with the view of any such
<em>stalking</em> prodigy; and I must declare that, notwithstanding
the numerous deserts I have crossed, at different seasons, always
making particular enquiries on the subject, I have neither seen nor
heard of such as he describes.<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_29">[29]</span> The wandering Arabs tell the women, children,
and peasants of the Nile fearful stories of the whirlpool of the
desert, and the terrible simoom; but such tales, embellished by an
Oriental imagination, will rarely bear investigation. From what I
have been able to ascertain, there are certain gusts of wind which
occasionally sweep over these deserts, with clouds of sand, which
prevent your distinguishing any object at all distant; but these
are not very dangerous to caravans, except in those tracts where
there are immense hills or accumulations of light sand, such as I
have seen near the Oasis Magna, in the Libyan desert. The custom of
caravans, when they have the misfortune to meet with such blasts,
is to pitch their tents and shelter themselves within them.
Whatever may be the quantity of sand, they are always safe if they
can reach the summit, or place themselves under covert of a hill. I
will mention here an instance of this kind, which, in returning
from my first voyage up the Nile to the Second Cataract, along with
Mr. Ponsonby, he and I witnessed, on the 14th of April, 1832. We
were on the point of going that evening to the Isle of Elephantina,
when a violent storm, which, considering the season, though rather
too early, I might almost call Khampseen, came on. The whole day
had been unusually hazy, the air thick and exceedingly oppressive.
The extreme heat of the thermometer was 86° in the shade; at
sunrise, 70°; sunset, 74°: 86° was a few degrees higher than we
experienced it several days previous and after; and I may also
remark, that the day following, the thermometer did not rise above
79°. About five o’clock, an immense cloud of sand came sweeping
along with a wind so violent, that a boat which was crossing the
river to the island was driven back, and the air became so turbid
and impregnated with sand, that it was impossible to distinguish
any object ten yards from the bank of the river. We heard the
peasants in the fields, seemingly wild with confusion and alarm,
calling aloud to each other and for their children; and when the
sand<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[30]</span> enveloped them
from our sight, we still heard their cries. A scene so strange and
impressive I shall never forget. The gale blew almost directly from
the west, and seemed to be a specimen of those which have
successively swept before them the hills of light loose sand,
which, as the Egyptian traveller will recollect, have completely
smothered the cultivated land on the western bank of the river
opposite Assuan. We endeavoured to shelter ourselves from it as
well as the old windows of our cangia would permit; but the sand
penetrated every where, into my bed, arms, instruments, and linen;
and even my watch was affected. I felt it in my eyes and between my
teeth. I then made the reflection, how awful it would be to
encounter such a simoom in the desert. It was by such a storm that
the army of Cambyses is supposed to have been overwhelmed, as Dr.
Darwin in his “Botanic Garden” most graphically describes it:—</p>

<div class="linegrp-container">
<div class="linegrp">
<div class="group">
<div class="line indent0">Wave over wave the driving desert
swims,</div>

<div class="line indent0">Bursts o’er their heads, inhumes their
struggling limbs,</div>

<div class="line indent0">And one great earthly ocean covers
all:</div>

<div class="line indent0">Then ceased the storm—Night bow’d his
Æthiop brow</div>

<div class="line indent0">To earth, and listen’d to the groans
below.</div>

<div class="line indent8"><span class=
"linethrough word-spaced3em">&nbsp;</span>Awhile the living
hill</div>

<div class="line indent0">Heaved with convulsive throes, and all
was still.<a id="FNanchor_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6" class=
"fnanchor">[6]</a></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>

<p class="nind">In mentioning that I have never heard of nor seen
these sandy or meteoric pillars, which is the more remarkable since
Bruce says he observed them day after day, I do not mean to affirm
that he could not have seen that extraordinary phenomenon in this
very desert. That adventurous and intrepid traveller has been
already too much calumniated. I merely state that my own
experience, and the numerous enquiries I have made, lead to the
conclusion, that such phenomena are now unknown: it must, however,
be recollected, that Bruce crossed this desert more in the
interior. Those who have most strongly condemned Bruce for his
occasional exaggerations and embellishments (into which he
certainly fell),<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[31]</span> have
forgotten that few other travellers have ever brought to their
country so large a mass of fresh, interesting, valuable, and
correct information. Salt, his most severe critic, in speaking of
his drawings of the ruins of Axum, asserts that he was no
draftsman; yet he contradicts himself in a variety of other
instances, where he confirms the accuracy of Bruce’s delineations
of plants and birds, which are more difficult to execute than an
obelisk without hieroglyphics. Mr. B. is most to blame for not
acknowledging sufficiently the services of his Italian artist. Many
of his tales, marvellous as they at first appeared, have proved to
be correct. There was a time in England, when, if a traveller
mentioned any fact that was contrary to preconceived ideas, he was
accused of error, and often, notwithstanding his previous character
of honour and integrity, of wilful exaggeration, and even
misrepresentation. Now, however, the mass of well-educated and
scientific men have more liberal ideas, and, being anxious for
information, are pleased to see the errors of earlier travellers
corrected, and endeavour, with philosophical discrimination, to
bestow on each the credit which is due to him.</p>

<p><em>Feb.</em> 22. My dromedary was on his knees at seven this
morning. The Arab mounts his camel, by pulling down his head,
placing his knee on its neck, and allowing the animal to raise him
on its back. The first time I attempted to ascend a dromedary in
this style, was on my route from the Oasis Magna; and I paid the
penalty of my inexperience. I had pushed on in advance of my
caravan nearly a couple of miles, when I had occasion to alight to
adjust my saddle. Not doubting that I could mount with true Arab
agility, I made the attempt; but deeming it necessary to spring
with the return of the animal’s neck, our united force pitched me
clear over its tail, leaving me sprawling on the sand,—a lesson to
all too aspiring riders. The dromedary ran back at full speed to
the caravan. For eleven hours before reaching any hills, except a
small one called Faroot, we traversed an immense down, the full
extent of which, from the<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_32">[32]</span> hills called El Talati Greibat, to the
smaller ones called Mogram, could not be less than forty miles,
without any perceptible alteration in its level. It consists of
sand, on which was disseminated a great variety of quartz
fragments, principally of a deep red colour, and from a half to
three inches in length. I observed, also, on the plain, numerous
detached pieces of mica, and some curious specimens of granite. We
passed at six P.M. the small range of mountains called Mogram,
which are of flinty slate; and about two hours afterwards we
encamped, after thirteen hours’ ride, in another plain. To-morrow
morning we expect to arrive at the valley of the Nile. I look
forward to that event with great pleasure. My servants are
exhausted by the bodily fatigue for so many hours each day, the
short allowance of water, the cold at night, sleeping in the open
air, and other privations which they are obliged to submit to; and
Signor B. begins to bear with impatience the want of his soup, the
provident regulations of the desert not permitting our precious
water to be employed for that purpose. For two days the wind has
been high, and we have not been able to use our umbrellas as a
protection from the scorching rays of an almost vertical sun. Our
camels, also, have suffered from the thirteen days’ fatigue. We
were obliged to leave one at El Murrah with the Bishareen, being
unable to continue the journey. I observed, also, this afternoon,
that my Ababdes seemed more than usually tired. Their manner of
resting is peculiar. They walk on a short distance in advance of
the caravan, choose a flat part of the desert, if possible, shaded
by a rock, and extend themselves at full length flat on their
backs, stretching out their arms and legs. This mode of reposing
for a few minutes I have found to be very refreshing.</p>

<p><em>Arrival at the Nile. Village of Abouhammed.—Feb.</em> 23. We
left this morning at seven, and reached the banks of the Nile in
five hours. There is no apparent descent from the desert. Our
fatigues and sufferings were all forgotten, and every one seemed to
bless his stars, and think it luxury to quaff again<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_33">[33]</span> the delicious waters of this
most noble of streams, uncontaminated by the taste of the geerbah
skins, and no longer confined to the scanty allowance of the
caravan. The Ababdes have found here many relations and friends,
and there seems to be no end to salamats and taip eens, to shaking
of hands and embracing. At their request I have consented that the
remainder of the day shall be devoted to repose and festivity. My
servants have killed the fattest sheep they could find; part of
which, and a small backsheesh (present of money), I have given to
the Ababdes to complete their happiness. They are already at work,
drinking the bouza; and I observe that some pretty Berber women
with their jests and charms are increasing their hilarity. We have
been eighty-six hours in this route:—</p>

<table class="tabw35" id="t033">
<tr>
<th>
</th>
<th>Miles.</th>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang2">33 hours in the valleys, at 2¾ miles per
hour</td>
<td class="tdr-bot">91¾</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang2">53 hours on the plains, which I calculate
at 3 miles per hour</td>
<td class="tdr-bot pad-right1">159</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">This agrees very satisfactorily with the
known difference of latitude.<a id="FNanchor_7"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> (See the <a href=
"#map">Map.</a>)</td>
<td class="bbdb bt tdr-bot pad-right1">250</td>
</tr>
</table>

<hr class="chap">

<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[34]</span><a id=
"c03"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2>

<p class="csum">ABOU-HAMMED. — FORTIFIED HOUSE OF THE SHEAKH. —
ISLAND OF MOGRAT. — POPULATION. — TAX TO THE PASHA. — TROPICAL
RAINS. — ARAB RAFT. — FORTUNATE ESCAPE. — MANNER IN WHICH THE
CAMELS PASS THE RIVER. — GAGI. — DESCRIPTION OF THE HAREM OF A
SHEAKH. — OFFICE HEREDITARY. — HABITATION OF A SHEAKH. — ETHIOPIAN
FLIES. — DOUM TREES. — ABOU-HASHIM AND OTHER VILLAGES. —
CULTIVATION. — ARAB CIVILITIES. — BERBER SHEEP AND GOATS. —
VILLAGES AND ISLANDS. — ARAB BURIAL-GROUND. — GENERAL CHARACTER OF
THE COUNTRY. — TRACT OF DESERT. — WILD ASSES. — FIFTH CATARACT. —
PRESENT STATE OF NUMEROUS VILLAGES. — ARRIVAL AT MAKKARIF, CAPITAL
OF BERBER.</p>

<p class="nind"><span class="sc">This</span> part of the valley of
the Nile is not very pleasing or fertile, the eastern bank being
almost entirely swallowed by the desert. The village is called
Abou-Hammed; and consists of a few houses, or rather wretched huts,
built of mud and straw. The fortified house of Sheakh Halif is
almost as large as the village itself: since his death it has not
been occupied. It consists of a large quadrangular brick enclosure,
with a circular tower at each corner. In the centre is a building
of one story, in which are the divans and sleeping-room of the
Sheakh. Along the enclosing walls are innumerable little huts,—the
apartments of his wives and concubines, the latter of whom are said
to have at one time amounted to no fewer than sixty. Opposite to
this village is the Island of Mograt, which is principally
remarkable for numerous fine doum trees, profusely scattered upon
it. The Sheakh of this district paid me a visit, and informed me
that it contained, chiefly residing on the island, twenty-five
families; which, he said, probably consisted of 300 individuals. I
remarked, that this was allowing a very great proportion for each
family; but he replied, that one family consists sometimes of forty
persons; a fact only to be accounted for by the polygamic
privileges of the Mahometans.<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_35">[35]</span> I am told that the district contains forty
sakkeas, which confirms this estimate of the population, as seven
or eight persons may always be reckoned to a wheel. The peasants of
the island informed me that they pay twelve dollars and two ardebs
of wheat as a tax for each sakkea. I searched over the eastern side
of this island for antiquities; but without success, except a small
fragment of a wall of unburnt bricks, apparently Saracenic. I
neither found nor heard of any vestiges of its ancient rulers. The
island is very rocky; I observed some of hornblende slate, and
granite, with disseminated fragments of quartz, and beautiful
specimens of Egyptian jasper. The Sheakh complained of its being
rocky and not very fertile: “We toil hard,” said he, “but earn
little:” yet this part of the valley of the Nile seems very
healthy. The malaria which, higher up, after the time of the
inundation, causes so much sickness and mortality, is here unknown.
The tropical rains sometimes extend lower than this place, but not
regularly: for three years rain has been entirely wanting, and the
peasants complain of not having herbage in the valleys for their
camels. I crossed the river to the Island of Mograt, on a raft or
boat of the rudest description,—three logs of wood lashed together,
with sides and square ends constructed in the same primitive
manner. Perceiving that the natives passed in these safely, I did
not hesitate to trust myself upon one. A peasant, with a clumsily
constructed paddle, impelled and guided the raft; another holding
up with one hand part of his dress, as a protection against the
wind, while with the other he was employed in baling out the water.
The servant I had with me was similarly engaged. Before we entered
the raft it was one third full of water, which was immediately
doubled by our additional weight. I did not, however, allow them to
bale out much, as I perceived there was less danger of our being
swamped than upset by the violence of the wind, and was therefore
glad of the water for ballast. I sat at one end, not uselessly
employed; for, as the raft seemed often inclined<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_36">[36]</span> to turn over on one side or the
other alternately, I kept it balanced by throwing my weight
accordingly. I asked my Charon if they were often upset? “Yes,”
said he, “repeatedly; but we are unembarrassed with clothes, and
can swim to shore;” at the same time eyeing rather superciliously
my wide Turkish trousers, which, had any accident occurred, would
as infallibly have carried me to the bottom as if a millstone had
been tied around my neck. In fact, my worthy friend, Charon, on his
return to the island, after bringing me back, was upset, and saved
his life by his dexterity in swimming. I scarcely had time to smoke
a shibouk, when my servant came running in to give me this
intelligence, and congratulate me on my escape; but as these Arabs,
like crocodiles, swim nearly as easily as they walk, no danger was
apprehended. I observed to-day the curious manner they transport
the camels to the island. The men fill a large geerbah
(water-skin), with air, on which they place themselves, and paddle
across, leading the animals by a cord, and encouraging them to swim
by their songs.</p>

<p><em>Gagi.—Feb.</em> 24. We set out this morning at eight, and
encamped at the village of Gagi at five,—nine hours. Here, and in
the island of the same name adjoining, they number fifty men, all
of the Ababde tribe. In the island are six sakkeas, for each of
which they pay to the government fourteen dollars and two ardebs of
wheat. We are encamped, as usual, near the house of the sheakh. I
walked into his harem without ceremony, and chatted with his wives
and female slaves. Some of them were very beautifully formed; and
being almost naked, they displayed finely shaped busts, and, I may
say, almost perfect symmetry of shape; their features very regular,
and their full dark eyes exceedingly expressive. The little drapery
worn by them is adjusted with great taste, and they possess a
natural ease of manner, neither bashful nor yet too forward, which
is very engaging. The slaves were employed in making basket-work,
and the wives reposing on their angareebs. I could not, in Egypt,
have taken the liberty of entering<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_37">[37]</span> a harem in this manner; but here, apparently,
more freedom is permitted, for they did not seem at all offended;
on the contrary, they gave me as much encouragement as I could
desire. They examined my arms and dress, and were profuse in their
admiration of my beard, and in exclamations, as, “Odjaib, whallah!
wonderful, God is great! but he is a tall man.” The sheakh was
smoking under the shade of some doum trees. He saw me enter, but
had the politeness not to interfere. The title of sheakh was at one
time always hereditary in Upper Egypt; but the Pasha, in most
instances, put an end to this mode of transmission; choosing for
that honour those that had best suited his purposes. In Upper
Nubia, he has respected a little more the existing distinctions.
There the office of sheakh is still in general hereditary: the
eldest son succeeds to the father; and, in default of male issue,
the eldest daughter enjoys the dignity. On account of the number of
their wives, it rarely occurs that they have no son; but I am told
there is an instance now, near Dongolah, of a female sheakh. I have
described the fortified house of a great sheakh: that of one less
powerful and wealthy consists, generally, of two large rooms, a
divan and harem, between which is a pallisaded enclosure, where the
flocks are kept. (See <a href="#i01">Vignette,</a> p. 1.) The
sheakhs offer us every night angoureebs<a id=
"FNanchor_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a>
(bedsteads) made of wood and cords, but we are now so accustomed to
sleeping on the ground that we no longer feel it a hardship. On
this evening, and also that of yesterday, we have been annoyed by
swarms of very small flies, like midges, which draw blood most
copiously from our hands, but without leaving much painful
irritation.<a id="FNanchor_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9" class=
"fnanchor">[9]</a> From Abou-Hammed to this village our route has
always been through the desert, sometimes<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_38">[38]</span> 300 paces only, but often as much as three
miles from the river. The banks are covered with doums and acacias;
the fruit of the former is very well flavoured, tasting like good
gingerbread, but the rind is very hard, and the little that is
eatable is so difficult to get at, that it is really not worth the
trouble. This tree has rarely, if ever, branches springing up from
the root, like the palm tree. The small round and full yellow
flower of the acacias emits a most delightful odour. The size of
these trees is here very great, compared to those we see in Europe.
The first two hours this morning I noticed porphyry rocks appearing
above the sand, and fragments of the same disseminated; afterwards
hornblende rock. Near here the rocks are of quartz.</p>

<p><em>Abou-Hashim.—Feb.</em> 25. We left Gagi this morning at
seven, and encamped here at half past three P.M.—eight hours and a
half. At half past ten we passed the village of Atmoon, situated on
the opposite side of the river. It is inhabited entirely by
Berbers. There are eleven sakkeas there. I am told that there are
generally seven persons, including children, employed at each. At
this village, and in the Island of Mero opposite, are twenty-three
sakkeas, which pay ten dollars 150 piastres, and four ardebs of
dourah each, equal to 210 piastres. Cailliaud has marked two
islands, one Meri, the other Mero; but there is, in fact, only one,
called Mero. The Island of Kourgos, we slept opposite to last
night, extended until ten A.M. At half past ten we passed an
isolated mountain, three miles on our left. During the greater part
of the day we have passed over sandy flat plains; rocks of coarse
granite, hornblende, and gneiss occasionally appearing above the
surface, and fragments of the same and of quartz being also
disseminated. I also remarked rocks and fragments of sandstone much
charged with iron. At twelve we visited, close to the river, the
ruins of a Saracenic castle of crude, that is, unbaked, bricks. The
Arabs, by their description, had led us to expect antiquities. Our
track this day has generally been a mile and a<span class="pagenum"
id="Page_39">[39]</span> half distant from the river. (For the
bearings, see the <a href="#map">Map.</a>) Shortly before arriving
here, we observed fields of dourah; otherwise the banks of this
side of the river are generally uncultivated, but covered with doum
and large acacia trees. The productive land seems to be in the
islands. The inhabitants of this village are mixed, there being
some families of Ababdes, but the greater number Berbers. We always
go to the house of the sheakh, who meets us with the usual Arab
civilities, and gives us his hand, welcoming us as Mahometans,
<em>Salam Aleycam</em>, and supplying us with sheep and milk. Some
of these sheakhs have an air and bearing truly dignified and
patriarchal. Their flocks of goats and sheep form their chief
ostensible wealth: the sheep are small, and the wool worth very
little, being so coarse as almost to resemble hair. Their colour is
beautifully variegated, generally white and black, but in some
cases white and brown. The mutton, though too young, is good, and
the goats’ milk the best I ever tasted. We found, near the river,
this morning, numerous shells of the genus Etheria, almost
resembling the Ostrea.<a id="FNanchor_10"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a></p>

<p><em>Feb.</em> 26. We left Abou-Hashim this morning at seven, and
encamped at five P.M. At half past eleven we passed El Bagahra, and
at half past one Neddi, the former a large, the latter a small,
village. We passed also the small island of Essabeas, where there
are four sakkeas; this island begins at Bagahra, and terminates
opposite Neddi. Our route, all day, has been at a short distance
from the river, over the same kind of downs and plains,
covered<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[40]</span> with the doum
and acacia trees. Near the villages I observed barley and cotton,
but no dourah; the produce of the island, I am informed, is the
same. These villages are entirely inhabited by the Berbers. We have
passed no hills to-day, but I observed continually points of
hornblende slate and coarse granite appearing above the sand. I
have also been surprised to observe to-day, <em>in the desert</em>,
great numbers of the same shells. We have passed, during these last
three days, several burying-places of the Arabs. They consist of
earthen or sandy mounds, half a foot high; the length and breadth,
of course, depend on the size of the body. At each end of the mound
is a piece of black slate rock, about a foot high, and along the
centre is a narrow gutter, which is filled with loose little
pebbles, and, what is singular, these are always of the same
colour. Sometimes they consist of small pieces of yellow, and
sometimes of white, quartz; and, occasionally, I observed them of
the shells above mentioned. Considerable pains is evidently taken
to choose these stones of exactly the same colour and description,
and also generally of the same dimensions. The effect is very
pleasing. The slabs at each end reminded me of the simple
gravestones in our country churches: the recollection was
interesting; but they could not stand the comparison; for where,
indeed, in the wide world, is there any scene to be compared with
the tranquil beauty of our village churches, diffusing a peaceful
charm over the rural landscape of rich enclosures, snug parsonage,
and baronial demesnes, peculiar to England. Here is but a dreary
wilderness: nature stern and desolate; man nearly in the state of
the savage. In this part of the valley the breadth of the Nile is
generally about one third of a mile; but it varies exceedingly,
being sometimes a whole mile, and occasionally not much above a
quarter. The foliage on its banks renders it not unpleasing to the
eye, particularly as contrasted with the adjoining deserts. The
flatness of the country prevents its being picturesque, except in
some parts, where rocks and little islands in the bed of the river
break the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[41]</span> monotony of
the landscape. This evening we are encamped, not, as usual, near a
village, but on the banks of the Nile, previous to passing a small
tract of desert.</p>

<p><em>Granata.—Feb.</em> 27. We commenced our sandy route this
morning at half-past six, and my caravan arrived at this village at
half-past six P.M. Mr. B. and myself were only nine hours. Having
pushed on our dromedaries, we crossed the small desert, before the
fifth cataract, in six hours. This desert is sandy, with quartz and
flinty slate disseminated. We saw, for the first time, three wild
asses, which had been browsing among the acacias near the Nile.
There are great numbers of them in the country, but the peasants
very seldom succeed in catching or destroying them. A mixed breed
is sometimes seen in the villages. From the description of the
Arabs, I conceive that the zebra, also, exists in these deserts.
The wild ass seems larger than the common one; but we were at too
great a distance to observe them particularly. The peasants seldom
chase them, but with a good horse it is not very
difficult.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[42]</span> The reader
will recollect the beautiful and accurate description in Job, chap.
xxxix.<a id="FNanchor_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11" class=
"fnanchor">[11]</a> We arrived at the fifth cataract at half past
twelve, and remained three hours. It is not to be compared to
either the first or second for picturesque effect. There are here
no mountains, or even hills, and the fall, at a little distance, is
scarcely perceptible. The sound is great, the rapids strong, and of
such an extent, that, at this season of the year, certainly no boat
of any size could pass: when the Nile is high there would be little
difficulty. We made two views, looking north and south, and
coloured them on the spot; but the <a href="#i02">vignette</a> will
give the reader an idea of this cataract of the Nile. Two hours
below are the islands of Kermi, Drogueh, and Melor: almost opposite
the cataract is a village called El Solymanieh. Doums and acacias,
as usual, on the banks of the river. An hour before arriving, we
passed the small village of Gouloulab. This village, where we are
encamped, is very large, and said to contain 300 men. The island of
Ertole, opposite, is represented to have the same population; but
this, I think, is rather an exaggeration of the sheakhs’.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw15">
<figure id="i02"><a href="images/i02.jpg"><img src='images/i02.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">FIFTH CATARACT OF THE NILE.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p><em>El Makkarif, Capital of the ancient Kingdom, and now Turkish
Province, of Berber.—Feb.</em> 28. We started this morning at
seven, and at ten passed the large village of El Abadieh, a little
below which, on the opposite side, is Engreyab; at a quarter past
twelve, El Ferrakah, opposite which is Abselam; at half past
twelve, El Dankel; at half past one, El Hassan (vestiges of a
Saracenic castle), opposite which are the villages of Dekseet and
Wady Shekeer; at half past one, the village of El Howe; at half
past two, El Gadawab; at three, we passed a village called Housh,
opposite which is Ellet<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_43">[43]</span> Wady Gadallah; at a quarter past three,
Mahanifa; at half past three, Dich; and at four entered the
capital, Makkarif. Most of these villages are large, but many
almost entirely deserted. In one of 120 houses, I counted only
twenty that were inhabited. This is occasioned, not only by a
decrease of population, but also by the wretched state of poverty
to which the Berbers are now reduced. Many families who had
formerly two, three, and even six houses, are obliged to content
themselves with one, allowing the others to fall into ruin from not
having the means or inducement to repair them. If still possessed
of any wealth, their only means of preserving it, or, at all
events, of transmitting it to their posterity, is to keep it
secret; and by an affectation of poverty, lull any suspicion that
may arise of their possessing treasure. Notwithstanding what I am
told of their hidden wealth, I should suspect the examples to be
few: the real distress is unfortunately far too evident. The houses
are scattered, and often at a considerable distance from each
other; never crowded together, like the cottages in the villages of
Egypt. Being shaded by the graceful doum and acacia trees, they
produce a rural and sometimes picturesque effect. According to the
ancient divisions, we have only been this day in the province of
Berber. Since we reached El Ferrakah, the character of the country
has been quite different; more villages, a richer soil, and even
the desert thickly studded with trees like a shrubbery. The country
between Abou-Hammed and Grenata is included in the Turkish province
of Berber, and as such I have described it. The natives are the
Rabatat, once the terror of caravans. The heavy exactions they
imposed on all travellers, or rather merchants, obliged the latter
to take the long route from Derouey to Makkarif, the same in which
Burckhardt and Bruce suffered so severely. The manners of the
Rabatat seemed rougher, and their depravity more open, than I
observe here.</p>

<hr class="chap">

<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[44]</span><a id=
"c04"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2>

<p class="csum">VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR. — COURT AND ANCIENT CHIEFS
OF THE COUNTRY. — HOSPITABLE RECEPTION. — TURKISH ENTERTAINMENTS. —
CHARACTER OF THE GOVERNOR. — HIS ATTENTIONS. — STYLE OF LIVING. —
DONGOLAH HORSES. — ANECDOTES, COSTUMES AND PORTRAITS OF THE CHIEFS.
— TURKISH KNOWLEDGE OF THE ARTS. — BAZAAR OF MAKKARIF. — HOUSES. —
MANUFACTORY OF INDIGO. — EXTENT OF CULTIVATION. — POPULATION. —
CAMELS’ HIDES. — SUGAR MANUFACTORY. — ETHIOPIAN WOOL. — BISHAREEN
TRIBE. — MANNER OF COLLECTING THEIR TRIBUTE. — ABABDES AND OTHER
ARAB TRIBES. — TURKISH POLICY. — BURCKHARDT. — CHARACTER OF THE
PEOPLE. — ARABS OF THE DESERT.</p>

<p class="nind"><span class="sc">Immediately</span> on our arrival,
we paid a visit to Abbas Bey, the governor of the province. He has
a private house for his harem; but during the day he holds his
court and takes his meals in one of the fortified houses of the
sheakhs. At the door we found a number of soldiers and officers
drinking coffee. The Turkish governor is obliged to furnish the
officers attached to his court, as well as strangers and principal
persons of the town who wish it, with as much of this beverage as
they choose to drink; and so great is the consumption, that it is
in fact the most considerable part of his official expenditure. We
were ushered into a large room, forty feet by twenty, and
proportionably high, with windows at one end, but, as usual,
without glass: some small windows, above the larger, were covered
with paper as a substitute. Around the room was a divan one foot
high and four feet wide: one end was covered with mats, over which
were thrown rich carpets and scarlet plush. The Governor, a man of
about thirty, of a stern yet prepossessing appearance, was seated
in the corner upon the skin<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_45">[45]</span> of a panther. The courtiers were arranged on
each side according to their respective ranks. On his right was the
grand Cadi, in a brown dress, with a green turban (the badge of his
having made the pilgrimage to Mecca, and being a sheriff, or
descendant of Mahomet). He is a native of this country, and fills
the offices of high priest and chief judge. The Bey paid him great
attention; no doubt on account of his great influence with the
people. He has a very jesuitical countenance: I thought of
Alfieri’s celebrated speech in Saul. Next to this priest was Sheakh
Sayd, the Chief of the Ababdes. (See <a href="#pl03">Plate.</a>)
His family have held this title from time immemorial: the stamp of
nobility is marked upon his high forehead; and there is an
expression of dignified mildness in his countenance which commands
respect: he interested me exceedingly. Another, but inferior,
Sheakh of the Ababdes was seated next to Sheakh Sayd, in a blue
linen dress. Next to the Ababde Sheakh was the Melek Nazr ed Deen.
This man was forty years melek or king of this province. I am
informed that the meleks of Shendy and Metammah attacked his
kingdom, defeated him, seized his riches, and sullied the honour of
his family. In revenge, it is said he fled to the Pasha of Egypt,
and represented to him how easily he might subdue the country. The
Arabs, and in this district particularly, extol in the most
hyperbolical terms the merits of their great men. I will mention
their expressions in a few instances as characteristic. According
to their extravagant accounts, the war-cry of this melek was, “I am
a bull, the son of a bull, and will die or conquer!” They assert
that he is able to cut a camel in two with a blow of his sabre, and
to eat a whole sheep to his breakfast. He really is an amazingly
stout man for this country (see <a href="#pl01">Plate I.</a>), and
both his appearance and manners are surly and repulsive, which,
however, is not extraordinary, when we consider that he is now a
disregarded pensioner (having merely the rank and pay of a
katsheff), and no real authority in the extensive province where,
at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[46]</span> one time, his will
was law. Several other personages were present, among whom were
katsheffs, kaymacans, and artillery officers; Sheakh Beshir (see
<a href="#pl02">Plate II.</a>), now melek of Shendy, and some
sheakhs of the Bishareens. In the centre of the room stood about
thirty attendants; cowhasses, with their silver-headed canes, armed
with pistols and sabres; janissaries in the Albanian dress;
mamelukes, Turkish soldiers, sheboukgees, slaves, &amp;c. &amp;c.
The Bey was playing at drafts with Sheakh Sayd when we entered, but
immediately closed the board, and rose from his seat. He received
us very courteously, ordered us pipes and coffee in abundance, and
a fresh supply of the latter at least every half hour; and,
contrary to the Egyptian custom, there came usually two cups for
each person at a time. Their manner of presenting it is in the
highest style of Turkish fashion; holding the bottom of the fingan
(cup) between the first finger and thumb, with the hand curved. It
was presented at the same time to the Bey and myself; then to the
others according to their rank. I presented to him the firman of
the Pasha. He looked at the seal, kissed it, and applied it to his
forehead in token of his obedience; but at the same time assured me
that, on account of my being an Englishman, even if I had brought
no firman, he would have done whatever was in his power to
facilitate my plans. He would not allow us to leave him without
partaking of his evening meal, a short description of which may
amuse the reader.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw1">
<figure id="pl03">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 3.</p>
<a href="images/pl03.jpg"><img src='images/pl03.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by J. Hamerton, from a Drawing by
L. Bandoni.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="width-half cp1">MELEK NUSSR ED DEEN.</td>
<td class="width-half cp1">SHEAKH SAYD CHIEF OF THE ABABDE
TRIBE.</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman & C<sup>o</sup>. April
6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>After we had well lathered our hands in the usual Turkish
manner, the round white metal table was brought in, and we all
squatted down on the floor, with due decorum, around it. We had
first soup, and afterwards twenty dishes of meat, one following the
other, and the dinner finished with a pillof of rice. We used
wooden spoons for the soup, diving into the dish promiscuously; the
meat we ate with our fingers, using always the thumb and two
forefingers of the right hand; each person keeping as well as he
could<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[47]</span> to his own
angle of the dish. Holding a piece of bread in his hand, he fished
out the pieces of meat, with a due proportion of gravy. The dishes
were all small, and some of them very <em>recherchés</em>; but, as
usual, it was mutton, mutton, nothing but mutton, though disguised
in a great variety of forms, with herbs, beans, and sauces from
Cairo. The hands of the Bey had the precedence in plunging into
each dish, and the paws of the others briskly followed those of
their leader. Having tasted one or two choice morsels, his
Excellency nodded his head, and that plate vanished. A number of
hungry attendants who were to dine upon the remains of the feast,
waited in a string, and handed the dishes back and forward, from
one to the other, with the greatest rapidity. Very little was said
during the repast; indeed, whoever is so foolish as to converse on
such an occasion runs a great hazard of faring indifferently. As it
was, I had rather a scanty supper; for perceiving it was <em>bon
ton</em> to eat of every dish, and not knowing how many might
follow, I did not duly profit by the precious moments. Old Nazr ed
Deen, who, as I have stated, is reported to breakfast with such a
voracious appetite, seemed by no means satisfied, although I
observed that he made the best use of his time. The whole affair
was finished in twenty minutes. Some of the dishes were not one
minute on the table. The Bey, with his fugacious nod, reminded me
of the physician at the island, who was so considerate for Sancho
Panza’s digestive powers. I ought not to omit mentioning, that the
Bey, as a special act of politeness to myself, selected often the
most delicate morsels from the best dishes, with his own besmeared
fingers, and placed them before me. I did not quite relish such a
greasy gratification, but was obliged to swallow the compliment.
Several slaves stood around the table with gullahs of cool
water,—the only beverage permitted; others had large fans to keep
away the flies. After we had performed our very necessary
ablutions, smoked a pipe, and<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_48">[48]</span> taken coffee, the Bey dismissed his court and
attendants, and we had a long <em>tête-à-tête</em> upon various
subjects. Although evidently a brave man, he finds the difficulties
of his situation trying and embarrassing. Having no trusty friend
or confidant near him, he seemed glad of an opportunity of
disburdening his grievances before a stranger, to whom there would
be no disgrace or humiliation in expressing his fears and
difficulties. “I have few or no friends here,” said he, “and many
enemies. It is difficult to satisfy the demands of the Pasha, and
not oppress the people. The Government at Alexandria are never
content with the amount of the revenue; and yet are enraged if any
complaints reach them, although they are the consequence of their
own exorbitant demands; <em>but</em> I hope God will give me
<em>good luck</em>, and enable me to keep my place to the
satisfaction of my master.” We conversed about the province; his
manner of managing the Arabs, with the statistics of the country;
the affairs of the Pasha (to whom he seems very much attached, and
hopes to see him master of St. Petersburgh, or at all events, of
the recent acquisitions of that power from the Ottoman empire); the
war with the Sultan; the conquest of these provinces; his own
military exploits and valour; and the antiquities which are the
object of my journey. Understanding that my artist was an Italian,
he displayed his knowledge of that language, which extended only to
two words, <em>buono e morte</em>, by taking hold repeatedly of Mr.
B.’s arm, and at the same time that he repeated these words, he
accompanied them with such a powerful grasp, as almost made poor
Signor B. scream for pain.—“Anima del’ caina (del cane),” he said
to me, in the Neapolitan dialect, “<em>buono o cattivo</em> mi pare
che mi vuol la <em>morte</em>.” Afterwards, the conversation
turning upon animals, he showed me the skin of a pet lion, that he
had killed because it had destroyed a sheep. I happened to appear
pleased with it, when he instantly made me accept it. He then sent
for a beautiful little monkey, of the grey<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_49">[49]</span> capuchin kind, with which he also presented
me. I took it into my special protection, and christened it with
the name uppermost in my thoughts, namely, Meroe; and many a weary
mile, till my return to Thebes, did it beguile me with its
mischievous gambols on my camel. When I rose to take leave, the Bey
said he would accompany me to my tent, and then offered me a fine
large panther’s skin, on which he had been sitting. He did not give
me these, as the Turks in general make presents, with the
expectation of receiving others more valuable; for I told him, on
receiving the first, that I had not contemplated making this
journey when I left Europe, and had therefore nothing with me to
offer him. He replied, “All Turks are not the same; there are good
and bad of every nation: these are trifles; tell me how I can be of
real service to you; and the only return I wish is, that you think
well of me when you go to your own country.” He privately inquired
of my dragoman if we were in want of candles, sugar, coffee, of
another tent, or any thing else. Although we wanted nothing, we
duly appreciated his kind intention. The style in which he came to
my tent, and went to and from his harem every day, will give some
idea of the state kept up in these provincial governments. He was
preceded by his guards, armed with guns; then by four cowhasses,
beating their massive silver-headed sticks on the ground,—a
substitute for music: the Bey himself then followed, on foot or on
his charger, having behind him six other guards, with guns, and a
crowd of perhaps twenty servants. I was at a loss what return to
make for his liberality: he had really shown himself such a fine
fellow, that it was painful to be behind him in generosity. Having
no suitable articles to spare, such as a gun, pistols, or a watch,
the most proper gifts to a Turk of his rank, I could only beg his
acceptance of a few trifles,—a new patent powder-flask and belt, a
bag of English shot, a good English penknife, and a silver
watch-guard. I gave him, also, a little stock of medicines, with
directions how<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[50]</span> to use
them; these he valued very highly, being aware on how slender a
thread his life hangs in such a baneful climate as this.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw4">
<figure id="pl02">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 2.</p>
<a href="images/pl02.jpg"><img src='images/pl02.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by W. Walton from a Drawing by L.
Bandoni.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="width-half cp1">SHEAKH BESHER.<br>
<span class="cp2">The present Melek of Shendy.</span></td>
<td class="width-half cp1">SON OF A BISHAREEN SHEAKH.</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p><em>March</em> 1. This morning the Bey sent us a couple of fine
sheep, and, before we were dressed, a cowhass called to summon me
to his divan. He showed us his stables, in which were six horses,
of the true Dongolah breed, black and brown, of whom the black were
the finest, but all of them had rather upright pasterns, and four
white legs: sometimes the white extends over the thighs, and
occasionally over the belly. They are not light, slender horses
like some of the best race of Arabs, being more remarkable for
their strength: their appearance reminded me very much of the
Egyptian horses, as represented on the walls of Thebes. They would
make magnificent cavalry horses; but if they were brought on a race
course, I think their appearance would induce few to back them,
except, perhaps, for a <em>three-mile</em> heat; certainly not for
the St. Leger. The breed is rare now, and valuable. Even here a
good Dongolah horse fetches from 50<em>l.</em> to 150<em>l.</em>
After dinner he went to his harem to sleep, and then returned to
the government-house. He then sent for me again, and kept me with
him until ten at night. Dinner and supper were served in the same
style as on the preceding day.</p>

<p><em>March</em> 2. This morning the Bey sent for me as before,
and kept me till after dinner, when I started for Shendy in his own
boat, which he had the goodness to lend me. He invited me to make a
longer stay, but I had no time to lose. These three days, however,
have not been altogether mis-spent, as I have obtained some
important information. I complained to the Bey yesterday, that, on
account of the prejudices of the people, we were unable to draw any
of the costumes of the country. The Bey very coolly declared, that
whoever dared to refuse, he would cut off his head! Though this
summary order was coolly received in the divan, we did not hesitate
to avail ourselves of it, and immediately set to work, and drew the
portraits of all the dignitaries of consequence<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_51">[51]</span> at his court. I have already
referred the reader to the portraits of Melek Nazr ed Deen, Sheakh
Beshir, and Sheakh Seyd. Some of them were very reluctant, in spite
of all our persuasion, particularly one native prince called Mousa.
(See coloured plate, <a href="#pl16">XVI.</a>) His likeness, taken
by Signor B., is admirable, the colour correct, and his figure is
the finest specimen of manly beauty I have seen in this country.
His breast, as will be observed in the plate, has somewhat of a
projection, a peculiarity I have often observed in Upper Nubia. It
is considered a great deformity, and those who have it often submit
to a most painful operation for its removal. Mousa, when my artist
had finished his portrait, begged the Bey to treat him as a man,
and not show him like a beast. He is the son of a melek, but now
serves as a groom. He is famous for his courage and dexterity in
the use of the sabre. To use their own exaggerated Oriental
language, he is capable of killing 100 men in battle. In our tent,
yesterday, we took the figure and costume of a Bishareen boy, about
eighteen, whose father, a powerful sheakh, had attempted to excite
a revolt against the Pasha. Not being successful, he fled, and his
son was detained in prison until the father paid a fine of 250
camels. By way of a jest, though a barbarous one, which I should
not have allowed had I known of it, the Bey and his officers told
the poor boy that we were to cut off his head, being Turks deputed
from Cairo for that special purpose. He sat down on the ground in
the attitude represented, with his head turned on one side, and
remained motionless, in the same position, nearly three quarters of
an hour. We remarked that we had never had a subject who sat so
patiently. When we had finished, we told him he might get up,
making him, at the same time, a small present; when, with a look of
bewildered delight, he told us how differently he expected to have
been treated, and that he had been awaiting every moment the stroke
of the sabre.</p>

<p>In the evening, when we were with the Bey, he sent for the poor
youth, and frightened him again by telling him that, by
virtue<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[52]</span> of the drawing
we had made, we had a magical power over him, and should transport
him with us into our own country. He opened his mouth aghast, asked
every body if it were true, and seemed struck with horror at the
idea of never again seeing his native deserts. He addressed his
inquiries particularly to Sheakh Seyd, who, as chief of the
Ababdes, he did not think capable of deceiving him; but I verily
believe many of the meleks and chiefs present, who affected to join
in the laugh, really had doubts and misgivings that such, in truth,
was the necromantic power of our pencils, and particularly of the
camera lucida, with which I drew several of them. My artist took
the Bey’s likeness, at his own particular desire; I conceive, for
one of his favourites. He was very well satisfied with the
representation of his figure, rich costume, his sword and
accoutrements, and of the fierceness of his mustachios; but he did
not understand the shading, and begged my artist “to take away
those black things.” Before leaving Makkarif, the Bey showed me
round the indigo and hide manufactories belonging to the
government. I parted from him with some regret, for he is decidedly
the best Turk I have ever known; and it was a great pleasure for a
few days to meet with such courtesy in these wild regions of
interior Africa. Makkarif has little appearance of a capital. The
bazaar should scarcely be dignified with such a title, as it only
consists of six or seven miserable shops. The town is divided into
seven divisions. The population may, perhaps, amount to 3500,
though it is difficult to obtain exact information as to numbers.
The houses are quadrangular huts of one story, like those in Lower
Egypt—not however crowded together as those, but usually standing
detached. Some of them are circular, and have thatched conical
roofs—a description of cottage very general to the south of Berber.
The residence of the governor, and of some of the sheakhs,
resembled the fortified house surrounded by large courts, described
at Abou-Hammed. There is here a large manufactory of indigo, a
valuable<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[53]</span> branch of
culture, which was introduced by the Pasha into this province five
years ago. They cut it three times during the season, at intervals
of about two months. To extract the dye, they place the stalks and
leaves for eighteen hours in a cemented mud basin or cistern of
water, which is then drawn off into another vessel: in this last
they leave it only a few hours, stirring it well with sticks, and
afterwards let it off into a caldron, in which the final process of
boiling takes place, and indigo is produced of very good quality.
The Pasha receives from this manufactory nearly 14,000 okres
(weight), which is sent to Cairo, and sold there for fifteen
dollars per okre. The government has greatly extended the
cultivation of the cotton plant in this province. Considerable
quantities of wheat and oats are also grown in it; but barley and
dourah, particularly the latter, are the chief produce. In the
Turkish province of Berber, which extends from Abou-Hammed to two
days journey beyond Shendy, there are 6000 feddans (measure) of
cultivated land, and 500 sakkeas. There were 800 of the latter,
when first the Pasha took possession of the country, but misrule,
or, perhaps, the system inevitably adopted in order to subdue
entirely the country, has impoverished as well as depopulated it.
The number of peasants, merchants, Arabs, and other residents, so
far as I have been able to learn, may be estimated (including their
families) at 30,000: this is independent of the Bishareen and other
desert tribes who pay their tribute here. The number of sakkeas may
appear small in comparison to the extent of the cultivation and the
number of the inhabitants; but it may be remarked, that a great
proportion of the arable land in this province is irrigated by the
inundation of the Nile and by manual labour. Besides, the peasants,
as well as the wandering tribes, subsist in a great measure by
their flocks and by their camels, which are bred in great numbers,
and of the finest quality, and sent to Cairo. Many also are sold
here to the merchants and carriers of this place; also to those of
Shendy and Sennaar. The price of a strong, ordinary<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_54">[54]</span> camel is about ten or twelve
dollars; of a dromedary, ten to thirty dollars. For several years
the government have sent to Cairo from 1500 to 2000 hides. This
year the Pasha has required 20,000. These hides are prepared with
lime, salt, and the pod of the mimosa. The Pasha has also tried the
sugar cane, which flourishes luxuriantly in the islands, though the
people have not yet acquired any skill in the manufacture of it.
There is a small sugar-house, but of the rudest construction. The
canes are placed between two rollers, turned by oxen, which squeeze
out the juice. The peasants themselves make a coarse kind of linen
cloth, which may be called fine canvass, but seldom deserves a
better name.</p>

<p>Pliny says, that Ethiopia, as well as Egypt, was by the Greeks
called <em>Etheria</em>, “without wool;” which may have been owing
to the circumstance, that the Ethiopians, like the Egyptians, wore
only linen; but perhaps it may rather allude to the extremely bad
quality of the Ethiopian wool. The Bishareen pay their tribute to
this government. They occupy the territory, and are generally
supposed to be descendants, of the ancient Troglodites; but there
is a name sculptured on the walls of Thebes, of a captured people,
called Sharim, which, with the Coptic article Pi, makes Pisharim or
Bisharim. Souakim, the capital, is fifteen days’ journey from this
place, on which road water is found every day and a half: its
inhabitants are called Edherbi and Hadendoah. Besides these, the
Bishareen have other subordinate divisions, as the Amarrah and the
Benishamah. As I have before stated, they are the most uncivilised
of the Arab tribes, if they can be called Arabs, when they speak a
language without any Arabic words, and lay no claim to Arabian
descent. Their features are often striking, but their manner of
dressing their hair, making it bushy and prominent both in front
and behind, and often shaving it a little, gives them a savage
appearance. Their dress generally consists of folds of linen of the
country, often ragged and dirty, but always put on in a graceful
manner, not unlike the ancient Greek drapery. War and plunder seem
to be their element, and they are accused<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_55">[55]</span> of being treacherous and deceitful: they are
addicted also to petty theft. Many are poor in the extreme; some
few rich and powerful, living luxuriously, as they deem it, on
camels’ flesh and milk. The principal persons at Makkarif tell me
that they count 200,000 houses or tents; but, notwithstanding the
vast extent of their territory, this must be an exaggeration. The
government finds always great difficulty in collecting their
tribute. “We generally send,” said the Bey, “two soldiers at a
time. If they are murdered, it is of no great consequence! for two
men it would be absurd to lay waste a whole province; but if we
sent twenty or thirty, and they were destroyed, it would create
great alarm, and be a serious loss out of my small force of 400
cavalry. Once,” said he, with an air of triumph, “I was there with
a large retinue, when a greatly superior number of Bishareen
attacked us, during the night, as is always their custom. Nine of
my men fled at the first onset, and falling into the hands of the
enemy were immediately massacred. We resisted and escaped, but it
caused great terror among my troops. Soon after we avenged the
death of my nine brave fellows in our usual manner. We enticed to
this place many of the Bishareen engaged in this affair by a
promise of pardon: then we enclosed them in one of our fortified
houses, and put them to death.” Some divisions of this tribe, who
are almost quite independent, often plunder the caravans and small
villages, and carry off cattle and other property; and they
sometimes extend their predatory incursions as far as Dongolah.</p>

<p>The Ababdes are divided principally into two tribes, the
Maleykab, from Esneh to Assuan; and the Hashibani, from Assuan to
Kash Kosseer. They are a fine race of men, and wear their hair in
ringlets hanging behind their heads, and at the sides, nearly to
their shoulders. Sometimes, but very rarely, their hair is bushy in
front like the Bishareen. Their dress of coarse linen is always
folded around them with the same graceful elegance. This tribe is
much less numerous than the Bishareen, but they have
the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[56]</span> character of
being braver. The number of their houses and tents was stated to me
by their chief, Sheakh Sayd, at 50,000. During the conquest of this
country, and on other occasions, they have been of great service to
the Pasha, who therefore levies no direct tribute except from such
as have allotments of land, and sakkeas, who pay for them like the
peasants of the Nile. Burckhardt speaks of the treachery of the
Ababdes. I have been with them for months in the Oasis Magna and
other places, and cannot say I have experienced it. On the
contrary, I have observed them more grateful for kindness, more
attached, more proud of their liberty, and tenacious of their
character, and more disinterested, than any other of the Arab
tribes. The number domiciled in this province is very considerable.
Besides these, I saw individuals of several other Arab tribes who
frequent Berber, while others I only heard of. Among these are the
Hassanyeh, who range from Berber to Kordofan, principally near
Dongolah,—the Kababysh, to the south-west of the latter, extending
to the White River,—the Benegerar, from Dongolah to Kordofan, in
the Desert,—the Erfara, near Sennaar,—a large and powerful tribe
called Rafarah, numbered with the Erfara,—the Shukriah, settled
principally near Shendy, but also between Berber and Sennaar, and
the Atbara and the Bahr el Azruk. The Eddibina, also, near
Shendy,—the Djamelyeh, on the Bahr el Abiad,—the El Amran, to the
east of the Mugrum, or Astoboras,—the Shelouks, ten days up the
White River, or Bahr al Abiad. They are said to be tall, powerful
men, always quite naked, and armed with bows and arrows, spears and
shields; and I am told that they worship the sun. Their territory
extends for a considerable distance on both sides of the river, but
the division on the east side is called Denha. The Shelouks inhabit
also numerous islands, communicating with each other by means of
canoes, some of which are very large. The Bahr el Abiad was
represented to me as being, in that part, ten times wider than the
Bahr el Azruk:—the Numrum, also, a<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_57">[57]</span> negro race of naked Pagans, twenty days’
journey from Sennaar, upon the White River. All these tribes,
except the two last, are wholly or partly tributary to the Pasha.
When we consider the slight comparative force with which his
governments are generally supplied, we must confess his officers
know how to manage their affairs, although the means they adopt are
not always the most honourable. The government of Berber has only
400 cavalry to keep in subjection a population of 30,000, besides
the many powerful tribes of the neighbouring deserts. The ancient
chiefs of the country are almost all alive and at large. Each
native is armed, and acquainted with the use of the sabre and
lance, and some few have matchlocks. They see the prosperity of the
country gradually decaying, and the population daily diminishing;
yet such is their terror of the Pasha’s power, that,
notwithstanding the small number of his troops, and the length of
time it would require to bring forward reinforcements, no monarch
in Europe has such absolute power, or sleeps more safe from bodily
fear than the Governor of Berber. The relentless system, which has
completely succeeded in Lower Egypt, of impoverishing the peasants,
and reducing them by distress to complete vassalage, is gradually
but successfully carried on by the Pasha in this country. The
descendants, perhaps, of those tribes who defied the power of the
Greeks and Romans, have been taught by Mohammed Ali to crouch
beneath his yoke. He has done so, in despite of all the obstacles
man and nature opposed to his ambition;—a brave resistance,
cataracts amongst which many of his barks were lost, the horrors of
the desert, burning climate, malaria, and fever, which at first
nearly annihilated his army at “one fell swoop.” The statement of
Cailliaud, that at Sennaar, the Pasha saw one third of his forces
fall a prey to malignant and intermittent fevers, dysentery, and
bilious attacks, shows at how dear a price these conquests were
purchased. But the Pasha’s power in this country rests now on a
basis which it would be difficult to shake,—a
combination<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[58]</span> of
vigorous policy in council, with superiority of arms and discipline
in the field. The tribes now know from experience the weakness of
their half fighting, half dancing hosts, with their lances, swords,
and large unwieldy shields,—against the regular fire of disciplined
troops. The very report of a cannon is irresistible to beings who
have the utmost dread of a musket; and they can now contrast the
effects of artillery with those of the comparatively harmless
implements of their own warfare, which seldom inflict more than
flesh wounds. Their former chiefs and meleks are now sinking fast
to the wretched level of the peasants. Stripped of their
patrimonial wealth and estates, and shut out from their other
sources of gain—commerce and exactions—they are now obliged to pay
court to the Turkish governors, to obtain or preserve a scanty
pension, which is almost their only means of subsistence. The
chiefs have suffered more than the peasants from the domination of
the Pasha, who has followed the usual policy of all conquerors, by
systematically aiming “to cut off the highest of the poppy heads.”
The great mass of the people of every nation are generally
indifferent to the misfortunes of the aristocracy, and are rarely
animated, by individual attachment, or more enlarged views of
national independence, to rise and deliver from oppression those
who, perhaps, were once their own oppressors. Possibly, they may
even feel a selfish exultation in seeing them reduced to their own
level; forgetting that, while their ancient chiefs sink thus into
poverty and obscurity, every hope of restoring the liberty of their
country vanishes.</p>

<p>I have not spent sufficient time in this province to judge
accurately of the character of the people, and I dare scarcely
attempt to delineate what the masterly hand of Burckhardt has so
admirably accomplished. I have not his work with me, and do not
remember minutely his account of the natives of this district. I
must, therefore, make a short record of my own observations,
though, probably, they will add but little to the information which
he has communicated. I am sorry to confirm his statement,
that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[59]</span> the most extreme
profligacy of manners prevails among the Berbers. They are entirely
devoted to women; unfortunately, not only to their own wives, but,
with lawless passion, to the wives of their neighbours. Adultery is
far more common here than in any other part of the valley of the
Nile; and there exists, also, in this and the adjoining provinces,
a system which is a disgrace to human nature. The sheakhs, meleks,
and chief men hire out their female slaves, or, rather, oblige them
to carry on an infamous traffic here and in the different villages,
and to pay to their master a monthly tribute out of the fruits.
This is the climax of profligacy. A correct idea of the immoral
state of the country may be formed, when those who, from their
station, ought to endeavour to repress vice, are, by this system,
its chief promoters. Slavery is horrible under any guise; but when
the task of the unfortunate victim is to sacrifice every principle
of honour, virtue, and decency, in order to satiate the avarice of
a remorseless master, a more distressing picture of human
wretchedness cannot be imagined. Besides the monthly tribute, they
are dependent also for their own subsistence upon the passing
caravans.</p>

<p>The superstition of the Berbers keeps pace with their gross
ignorance. I have already stated that, notwithstanding many
attempts, I was never able, unless in the Bey’s presence, and
through his despotic mandate, to overcome the apprehension and
scruples of the Berbers, of both sexes, to allow their portraits to
be drawn. Among those, too, who knew I was a Christian, I could
often distinguish an ill-disguised contempt when I deviated in any
respect from the Mahometan customs.</p>

<p>Intoxication is another vice to which the Berbers are generally
addicted, but seldom to any very gross excess. Their beverage is
the bouza, a species of beer made of dourah, boiled in a jar, and
drunk after a day or two, when it ferments. It is not of a very
intoxicating quality, but they drink gallons of it at a sitting.
One of the peasants intimated to me his regret that<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_60">[60]</span> the Prophet had only promised
them rivers of milk in his paradise, instead of bouza. They have
also the meresi and bulbul, more delicate descriptions of the same
beverage; and a strong but tasteless spirit (arrake), with a very
wretched liquor which they call wine; both these last being
extracted from the date. They are civil and attentive to strangers,
but there is something overstrained in their obsequiousness. They
have the reputation of being great thieves. Several old Egyptian
merchants, and also my camel-drivers, advised me to take care of my
baggage during the night, when I passed through Berber; always
recommending me, for that reason, to encamp near the house of the
sheakh. The women go about with their faces uncovered,—a privilege
which, in Egypt, only the wives of the Arabs of the Desert enjoy.
They have, generally, good figures, and a rather pleasing
expression of countenance. The men are stout, but their features
are seldom very prepossessing, or at all noble; and they are
deficient in that open and dignified manner and deportment which
distinguish the generality of the Arab tribes. The Arabs in
general, but especially the Berbers, are averse to active exertion.
I have often seen several of them sitting together for many hours
in the shade, with their eyes half closed, in a listless and supine
state, neither talking, nor engaged in any occupation. Sometimes
they were smoking, yet at the same time apparently unconscious that
pipes were in their mouths. Perfect repose of body and mind, the
<em>dolce far niente</em> of the Italians, is the highest felicity
they are able to conceive. Endowed with an imperturbable stock of
apathy,—more comfortable, perhaps, although not so intellectual, as
European philosophy,—they submit to a distressing accident, which
would throw one of our countrymen almost into a fever, without
allowing their equanimity to be in the least disturbed. “<em>Mactub
min Allah!</em>” it is written, It is the will of God! they
exclaim, with placid resignation; and, instead of brooding over
their misfortune, become immediately reconciled to it, and, with
amazing facility, banish it from their thoughts.</p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[61]</span>The Sennaar and
Shendy merchants, chiefly Arabs, pass sometimes by this route;
others go to Dongolah, across the Bahiouda desert. This is,
however, a much shorter route, and for that reason often preferred.
They furnish the bazaar of Makkarif with soap, spices with which
they make an ointment to keep their skin soft, rice, Mocha coffee,
mirrors, glass beads, and shells; and articles in cotton, such as
handkerchiefs, shawls, and other dresses: they also bring tobacco
and pipes, crockery, cooking dishes, &amp;c. A great many camels
are employed on this route, in conveying the officers, soldiers,
and provisions from Assuan to Berber, Shendy, Khartoun, and
Sennaar. When no other article is ready, the camels are laden, in
return, with charcoal made of the osshi plant, which is excellent
for gunpowder; but even for culinary use, the difference between
its price at Berber and at Assuan, in consequence of its scarcity
at the latter place, fully remunerates them for the carriage. A
great number of camels are, at certain seasons, employed by the
government in conveying down to Assuan the indigo, grain, hides,
&amp;c. levied as taxes in kind. This gives employment to the Arabs
of the desert, and attaches these roving tribes, by the strongest
chains of interest, to a more regular and less barbarous government
than they have ever been accustomed to, and thus reconciles them to
the relinquishment of their independence. When we consider the
predatory and lawless habits they gloried in for ages previous to
the Pasha’s conquest; the anarchy and confusion which afforded them
such facilities for rapine, and in which their bold unruly spirits
delighted, as the short though dangerous path to distinction and
wealth,—it is surprising to see them thus quietly occupied in the
vocations of peace, and earning their livelihood by honest
industry. A tribute of applause is certainly due to Mohammed Ali,
for effecting this great improvement in the habits and pursuits of
the uncivilised hordes who occupy so considerable a portion of the
continent of Africa.</p>

<hr class="chap">

<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[62]</span><a id=
"c05"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2>

<p class="csum">DEPARTURE FROM MAKKARIF. — VARIOUS VILLAGES. — THE
MUGRUM, ANCIENT ASTABORAS. — ROUTE TO GOSS REDJAB. — VERDANT
APPEARANCE OF THE ISLAND OF MEROE. — VOYAGE ON THE ASTAPUS. —
NUMEROUS VILLAGES. — COTTAGES. — HIPPOPOTAMI; MANNER OF DESTROYING
THEM. — VILLAGES. — ARRIVAL AT THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.</p>

<p class="nind"><em>March</em> 8. <span class="sc">We</span> set
sail, with a favourable breeze, from Makkarif, at one; and at half
past one we passed the village of El Releh; and at two, Sowektab el
Ekaba, on the western bank of the river; opposite to which, on the
east bank, is a small village called Howed. At four we passed Wady
Rowel, on the eastern side; at five, the small village of Sidin on
the same side; at six, a large village called Karmim; at three
quarters past six we passed Sayal, a small village on the east
bank; at a quarter past seven, Dakkel, on the same side; at twenty
minutes past seven, El Fodlet; and at half past seven we moored for
the night at the village of Unmatur, on the western side. We have
had a good wind, and certainly cannot have made less than three
miles an hour. Opposite to Unmatur is the junction of the Mugrum,
the ancient Astaboras, with the Nile, isolating from the Nubian and
Libyan desert this part of Meroe. For some distance before reaching
it, I observed that the colour of the water was very green, and had
not the usual appearance of the Nile, which is comparatively clear
at this season. I perceived also that the taste was different, and
that it had a strong disagreeable smell. I regret that it is now
dusk, so that I cannot observe more accurately the distinction of
the waters of the two rivers; but I am informed, that for some
space after the confluence, they remain unmixed. The width of the
Mugrum, as the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[63]</span>
Astaboras is now called, from what I could learn, is, at the time
of the rise, about 1000 feet. At this season, they tell me, it is
almost stagnant. It swells many days earlier than the Bahr el Abiad
or the Azruk; and I think the green colour that tinges the whole
Nile for the first thirty or forty days after its rise, may be
attributed to the influx of the waters of this river. The chief
province or district on its banks is called Atbara, evidently a
corruption from the ancient name of the river, which is curious, as
any analogy is rarely to be found between the modern and ancient
names in this country. Two hours before arriving at the junction,
we passed a small shellal (cataract). The current was strong; a
number of small rocks impeding the stream for about half way
across. The banks are covered with beautiful groves of acacias,
doums, and palm trees, and had generally a much more verdant
appearance than we had before remarked; reminding me most forcibly
of the observation of the pretorians sent by Nero:</p>

<div class="linegrp-container">
<div class="linegrp">
<div class="group">
<div class="line indent0">Herbas circa Meroen demum viridiores,
silvarumque aliquid apparuisse.<a id="FNanchor_12"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>

<p class="nind">From the best information I have been able to
obtain, there are seven days’ journey from the mouth of the Mugrum
to Goss Radjeb, the principal village on its banks: for the two
first days, the direction of this river is nearly east. There are
on this route few villages; the habitations chiefly consisting of
encampments of migratory Arabs, who change their stations as often
as they need fresh pasture for their camels and flocks. The chief
tribe frequenting the banks of the Astaboras is that of the
Bishareen; but its branches were described to me as distinguished
by the following distinct names: The first day’s journey east, is
called the district of the Atbara; the second, that of the
Eddandoweh; the third day, towards the south, Attaka; the fourth,
Giberta; the fifth, Medkirab; after which the district of Makkadi
extends several days beyond Goss Radjeb. A merchant informed me,
that, at this latter place,<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_64">[64]</span> there are the remains of a temple, but
without any sculpture, columns, or hieroglyphics. According to the
accounts given to me by the most intelligent Arabs, this river
abounds much more than the Nile in hippopotami and crocodiles, and
the western bank is infested with lions.</p>

<p><em>March</em> 3. Leaving Unmatur at seven, with a good wind, we
began our voyage on what Strabo calls the river Astapus, but which
the natives still call the Nile: passed, at a quarter past seven,
the village of Hassal, west side, and El Dahmur east, at nine,
Abouselam west, and Ambori east; at half past nine, Hossya east,
Maholrab west; at half past ten, the island of Essaydrab; at
twelve, the island of Gunnabra and the village of El Roweh west; at
half past one, El Howyeh east, El Ferakah west; at three, the
island of Tumfar, and the village of Alioh, to the east; at half
past three, the island of Egaydag, and village of the same name, on
the western bank; at half past four, the island of Nama; at three
quarters past five, Gebata to the east, and Keytayab to the west.
This day I have observed that some of the villages consist of
circular huts with thatched conical roofs. The water has not the
same colour nor the same disagreeable smell as that near the mouth
of the Astaboras. We have seen many crocodiles and several
hippopotami: upon our approach they disappeared under the water;
but occasionally raised their enormous heads, which, at the
distance we were then, appeared like those of buffaloes. We fired
at them, but without any effect. The Arabs state that their only
vulnerable part is their forehead. What Hasselquist says of the
manner of destroying them, by placing salt peas on the bank, the
eating of which may excite them to drink until they die, amused the
Arabs vastly. Their only way of killing these animals, is by
concealing themselves in the long grass or corn fields on the bank,
near one of their tracks. When the hippopotamus approaches, they
attack and pierce him with a barbed lance, to which a strong cord
is attached. The animal rushes to the river, and they follow him
warily on the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[65]</span> banks,
or in a boat, until his strength is quite exhausted, and he is
almost dead. His usual expiring effort is to make for the shore, or
his pursuers drag him thither as an angler does a fish. The
peasants sometimes keep up fires during the night, to preserve
their crops from his ravages. I observed to-day several beautiful
woods on the islands; and, for the first time, monkeys—the small
Grey Capuchin species.</p>

<p><em>Bagromeh Meroe.—March</em> 4. During the last night we have
passed the following villages:—</p>

<table class="tabw40" id="t065">
<tr>
<th>On the west bank.</th>
<th>Islands.</th>
<th>East bank.</th>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Eggabrab.</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Wady Abdelatif, or Valley of the Slave of
the Beneficent.</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Ennuba.</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">El Akareet.</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Effadnia.</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Eddyiga.</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Ednamaat.</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Gul el Mutmoor.</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Es Sagadi, or the Carpet.</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Es Sagadi (large island).</td>
<td>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">El Camair.</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Betasaat.</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">El Helala, or the Holy Place.</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Shutaib.</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">El Makmiah.</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Makmiah (small island). Es Shilalah, or
the Cataract.</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Gibel Immeli.</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Wady Youseph.</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Taadra.</td>
<td>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td rowspan="3" class="tdl-top hang1">Hillet el Gerf (village of
the bank of the river).</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Assour.</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Dankelah.</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Bagromeh.</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="nind">Under the cheerful influence of a tropical morning,
at seven, we arrived at the site of the ancient capital of
Ethiopia.</p>

<hr class="chap">

<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[66]</span><a id=
"c06"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2>

<p class="sch">MEROE.</p>

<p class="csum">HISTORICAL EVIDENCE THAT THIS IS THE CEMETERY OF
THE CAPITAL OF ETHIOPIA. — THE IMPOSING APPEARANCE, NUMBER,
POSITION, AND DIMENSIONS OF THE PYRAMIDS. — ETHIOPIAN ARCH. —
PROOFS THAT THE KNOWLEDGE OF THE ARTS DESCENDED FROM ETHIOPIA. —
EDIFICES OF A PYRAMIDAL FORM THE BEST ADAPTED TO RESIST THE RAVAGES
OF TIME. — PECULIAR STYLE OF THE SCULPTURE. — THE LANGUAGE OF
HIEROGLYPHICS GENERALLY KNOWN IN ETHIOPIA. — THE STYLE OF THE
SCULPTURE THE CRITERION OF THE AGE. — MONUMENTAL, GEOLOGICAL, AND
HISTORICAL EVIDENCE THAT THE KNOWLEDGE OF THE ARTS DESCENDED FROM
MEROE. — DESCRIPTION OF THE SCULPTURE. — NAME OF MEROE ON THE
MONUMENTS. — MEROE PECULIARLY INTERESTING, AS THE BIRTH-PLACE OF
THE ARTS. — SANDSTONE QUARRIES. — SITE OF THE CITY. — VILLAGES OF
THE PRESENT INHABITANTS. — AGRICULTURE. — CAILLIAUD.</p>

<p class="nind"><span class="sc">Agatharchides</span> says the
Astaboras unites its stream with the Nile, and forms the Island of
Meroe; and Strabo (lib. 17.) says Meroe is formed by the conflux of
the Astapus and Astaboras. Diodorus states the island to be 375
miles long, and 125 wide. The exact distance from Syene to Meroe is
stated by Pliny to have been a subject of great dispute even in his
time; which is the more extraordinary, when we consider the number
of travellers who had then visited and even penetrated beyond the
capital of Ethiopia. Pliny first mentions Delion as having
travelled far beyond Meroe; afterwards Aristocreon, Bion, Basilis,
and Simonides the younger, who wrote an account of that city.
Timosthenes was sixty days in making the voyage by water.
Eratosthenes reckoned the distance 625,000 paces, and Artemidorus
600,000. Bion gives us a list of towns, but no distances: the sixty
days of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[67]</span> Timosthenes,
by water, is too indefinite a date to be of any use, although it
agrees tolerably well with the account of Herodotus.<a id=
"FNanchor_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a>
The 625,000 paces of Eratosthenes, equal to 590 miles, is about the
length of the direct caravan road, which I find to be 560 miles to
the town. Artemidorus’s distance of 600,000 paces, equal to 568
miles, agrees more closely with my ascertained distance of that
route, that is, across the Great Desert, by Korosko and
Abou-Hammed.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw11">
<figure id="pl05">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 5.</p>
<a href="images/pl05_large.jpg"><img src='images/pl05.jpg' alt=
''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>From a Drawing by L. Bandoni.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">GENERAL PLAN OF THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>Pliny says that this dispute concerning the distance to Meroe
was finally settled by the prætorians and tribune sent by Nero for
the purpose of exploring the country, which he had some intention
to make a conquest of. There is little doubt, I conceive, that
these men would follow the Nile, in order to observe all the towns,
and report what resources there would be for an army. This will
account for their calculating the distance to the island at 874,000
paces (817 English miles). Following most of the sinuosities of the
Nile, I find it about forty miles more; but, as it cannot be
supposed that they did not occasionally avail themselves of some of
the many shorter routes now followed by the caravans, this may be
considered to correspond with sufficient exactness.</p>

<p>Pliny computes from Napata to the Island of Meroe, 360,000 paces
(340 English miles). If Gibel el Birkel be the site of ancient
Napata, the distance by the longest road is only 240, a difference
of 100 miles; I therefore conceive that Gibel el Birkel cannot be
the site of the ancient city of Napata, which, I think, we must
look for 100 miles lower down the river, perhaps at Old Dongolah.
Ptolemy places it much more to the north. Pliny says, that from the
commencement of the island to the town is 70,000 paces (66 English
miles). I found the distance to be nearly 60 miles; a difference
only of 6 miles: but these discrepancies are not surprising when we
consider the vague information and dubious authorities from which
he acknowledges that he compiled his account. I suggested, in
crossing the Great Desert, the probability<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_68">[68]</span> of its having formerly contained
establishments and wells, at different stations, for the
convenience of a more civilised population, and of this route
having been anciently much more frequented by travellers. There is
every reason then to suppose that Eratosthenes and Artemidorus took
this route; which will make their calculations, as well as those of
the prætorians by the Nile, accord very satisfactorily with the
position of these ruins. Without bringing forward other proofs, the
authority of Ptolemy is sufficient to dispel any doubt that might
possibly remain upon the subject. That geographer places the
capital of Ethiopia in latitude 16° 26′; a difference only of 30′
from the observation of Cailliaud. It is impossible to conceive the
observation of that geographer to be exactly correct (which,
indeed, is rarely the case); for, besides the absence of other
ruins, we cannot imagine that there could have been another town so
near the capital with such splendid cemeteries as these.</p>

<p>Never were my feelings more ardently excited than in
approaching, after so tedious a journey, to this magnificent
Necropolis. The appearance of the Pyramids, in the distance,
announced their importance; but I was gratified beyond my most
sanguine expectations, when I found myself in the midst of them.
The pyramids of Geezah are magnificent, wonderful from their
stupendous magnitude; but for picturesque effect and elegance of
architectural design, I infinitely prefer these of Meroe. I
expected to find few such remains here, and certainly nothing so
imposing, so interesting, as these sepulchres, doubtless of the
kings and queens of Ethiopia. I stood for some time lost in
admiration. From every point of view I saw magnificent groups,
pyramid rising behind pyramid, while the dilapidated state of many
did not render them less interesting, though less beautiful as
works of art. I easily restored them in my imagination; and these
effects of the ravages of time carried back my thoughts to more
distant ages.</p>

<p><a href="#pl08">Plate VIII.</a> faithfully represents the
principal group of the pyramids, and their present state of
preservation, and the annexed<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_69">[69]</span> view exhibits the most interesting of that
group in detail. As every stone in these plates is drawn with the
camera lucida, the reader will have the opportunity of studying
their construction, and I may also add (particularly in the case of
<a href="#pl09">Plate IX.</a>), of appreciating their picturesque
appearance.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw11">
<figure id="pl06">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 6.</p>
<a href="images/pl06.jpg"><img src='images/pl06.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>From a Drawing by L. Bandoni.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">PRINCIPAL GROUP OF THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The porticoes on the east side of each pyramid soon attracted my
attention, and I passed eagerly from one to the other, delighted to
find in several of them tablets of sculpture and hieroglyphics,
which, few as they are, have, I trust, given us the assurance of
the locality, and will, I hope, throw some light upon the mythology
and arts of the Ethiopians. There are the remains and traces of
eighty of these pyramids (see <a href="#pl05">Plate V.</a>): they
consist chiefly in three groups. The principal and most imposing,
at which I arrived first, is situated on a hill, two miles and a
half from the river, commanding an extensive view of the plain.
This group is arranged (see <a href="#pl06">Plate VI.</a>) nearly
in the form of a bow, the string of which from A to W is 1050 feet,
and following the curved <em>alignement</em> of the pyramids from A
to D, 625; D to W, 850, making in total extent 1425 feet.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw15">
<figure id="i03"><a href="images/i03.jpg"><img src='images/i03.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[70]</span>The plan will show
that no regularity has been maintained in their position. Thus, the
façade of portico A (see <a href="#pl06">Plan</a>) faces about
north-east, while the generality of the other porticoes vary from
east to south-east. The circumstance of the porticoes fronting
generally towards the east, and not one to the north and
south-west, proves a religious observance; but that there was no
astronomical object in view, in their porticoes facing the rising
sun, is certain from the variation in the directions, and from
there being no attempt at mathematical precision. Although we
cannot attribute to them the scientific object conceived by some to
have been contemplated in the location of the pyramids of Memphis,
still a happier combination of position could not be imagined for
producing upon the mind those impressive feelings which the royal
cemeteries of kings of an age so distant, and of a nation once so
great and powerful, naturally inspire.<a id=
"FNanchor_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14" class=
"fnanchor">[14]</a></p>

<p>The following account of the different measurements of the
pyramids will show the dissimilarity of their size. A (see <a href=
"#pl06">Plate VI.</a>) is 32 feet square; B, 42 feet square; C, 52
feet square; D, 31 feet from east to west, and 27 feet 6 inches
from north to south; F, 60 feet square; G, joined to the latter, of
the same size; H, 63 feet square; I, 42 feet 6 inches by 40 feet;
K, 42 feet square; L, 26 feet 6 inches by 23 feet 6 inches; M, 26
feet 6 inches by 21 feet; N, 29 feet square; O, 63 (this is without
a portico); P, only 17 feet square, without a portico; R, 61 feet
square; S, 30 feet square; T, 50 feet square; U, 29 feet square, V,
37 feet north to south, 39 feet east to west; W, 20 feet square; X,
20 feet square. Seven marked Y consist of pyramids in such a ruined
condition that the exact plan cannot now be ascertained; but some
of them, from the size of the porticoes, which can still be traced,
have evidently been of importance.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
<figure id="pl07">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 7.</p>
<a href="images/pl07.jpg"><img src='images/pl07.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>From a Drawing by L. Bandoni.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>London. Published by Longman, Rees &
C<sup>o</sup>. April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The pyramids (Plate <a href="#pl07">No. VII.</a>) restored
architecturally, will give the best idea of their original form and
ornaments. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[71]</span>
pyramid No. 3. is 60 feet in diameter at the base, and 60 feet
high; and is constructed, like most of the others, as shown in the
plates, of stones, generally one foot high and two feet and a half
long. The rim at the angles of No. III. is a great additional
beauty; and many of them are thus ornamented. Most of them can be
ascended; but the surfaces of some (as of Nos. 1. and 2.) are quite
smooth. The appearance of a window in No. 1., thirteen feet from
the summit, is curious; but it is merely an architectural ornament,
and not for the purpose of admitting light into any room of the
interior. There are thirty-one pyramids in the group, of which the
plans of twenty-three may be traced; while to the south-east is
another group of thirteen, in some degree of preservation, as will
be seen by the above view. There are three other groups, two
consisting of two pyramids each, and the other of six (see General
Plan, <a href="#pl05">Plate V.</a>); and at 5600 feet to the west
of the chief group, may be traced the remains of twenty-five
pyramids, but almost buried.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw15">
<figure id="i04"><a href="images/i04.jpg"><img src='images/i04.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">SOUTH-EAST GROUP OF THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[72]</span>The porticoes I
have before mentioned, situated on the eastern side of all the
pyramids, consist generally of one room, which varies from 12 to 6
feet in length, and from 11 to 6 feet in width. The portico of
pyramid H consists of two rooms, the one leading out of the other:
the first 8 feet long and 12 feet broad; the second the same
breadth, but only 6 feet in length. Three steps, each 8 inches deep
and 6 inches high, lead into the portico of No. 3. <a href=
"#pl07">Plate VII.</a> The doorway is 3 feet 10 inches deep; the
portico is 13 feet 8 inches long, and 7 feet 6 inches wide; the
height of the façade is 18 feet 4 inches.</p>

<p>The façades of these porticoes are very elegant. In their forms
we can clearly trace the origin of the Egyptian propylons. That of
No. 3. <a href="#pl07">Plate VII.</a> consists of a doorway 3 feet
wide, and the doorposts 6 inches wide. Above the door is an
architrave, over which is a square beading, and over it, as in
Egyptian edifices, rises a cornice ornamented with the globe and
wings. The door is 11 feet 6 inches high, and, including the
architrave and cornice, 14 feet. The buttresses, on each side of
the door, have a slight inclination inwards, but not so much as the
Egyptian propylons. They measure at their base 7 feet 6 inches, at
their summit 7 feet; others, 5 feet by 4 feet 8 inches and 5 feet
by 4 feet 10 inches. These measurements include the square beading
at the angles. In Egyptian architecture this beading would be
round. The square form here adopted, being more simple, affords
another reason for supposing that the first idea of this great
ornament to the Egyptian temples originated in Ethiopia. The height
of this portico is 11 feet 4 inches: that of the pylons of all the
porticoes nearly the same, whatever may be the height of the
pyramids; but the length and width of the porticoes seem to vary in
proportion to the size of the pyramids. At the extremity of most of
these porticoes, opposite the entrance, is the representation of a
monolithic temple, ornamented with sculpture, all very much
defaced.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw4">
<figure id="pl08">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 8.</p>
<a href="images/pl08.jpg"><img src='images/pl08.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by C. Hullmandel from a Drawing
by G. A. Hoskins Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[73]</span>It is evident
that, from motives of curiosity, or perhaps avarice, attempts have
been made to open many of the pyramids, but without success. From
the appearance of those which have been partially broken into, I do
not perceive the slightest probability that any of them contain
galleries. Probably they are constructed over wells in which the
bodies are deposited. That they are places of sepulture cannot be
doubted, from their position, number, and, most particularly, from
the subjects of the sculpture on the walls, which I will presently
describe. One of the porches or porticoes is most interestingly
curious, the roof being arched, in a regular masonic style, with
what may be called a keystone. (See <a href="#pl07">Plate VII.</a>)
This arch consists of four and five stones alternately; but,
notwithstanding this irregularity, the principle is the same, the
stones being held together only by lateral pressure. I trust to be
able to establish, beyond dispute, that the arch has its origin in
Ethiopia. The style of the sculpture in this portico, and the
hieroglyphic names of kings on porticoes ornamented in a similar
style, being, as I hope to prove, much more ancient than any in
Egypt, where there is no specimen of a stone arch constructed in so
regular a manner, we may consider such proficiency in architectural
knowledge as a decided proof of the advanced state of the arts, at
a very remote period, in this country.<a id=
"FNanchor_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15" class=
"fnanchor">[15]</a></p>

<p>A question which has long engaged the attention of literary men
is, whether the Ethiopians derived their knowledge of the arts from
the Egyptians, or the latter from the former. One of these
hypotheses must be admitted, as the similarity of the style
evidently denotes a common origin. These pyramids belong, without
doubt, to the remotest age. No edifice, perhaps, is better
calculated to resist the ravages of time, or the destructive
efforts of man, than the pyramid; particularly when constructed, as
these are, without any<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_74">[74]</span> chambers in the interior. In a country where
earthquakes are unknown, little rain falls, and the wind is seldom
violent, ages must elapse before these vast masses of stone could
be much dilapidated, unless buried by the desert, or carried away
by man as materials for other buildings. The porticoes even of the
pyramids that are standing, although adapted to their proportions,
are almost all injured, and most of them destroyed. There are no
symptoms of fanatical violence having been exercised on what
remains. Their ruined and defaced condition must be entirely
attributed to their great antiquity.<a id=
"FNanchor_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16" class=
"fnanchor">[16]</a></p>

<p>The sculpture is in a very peculiar style, which can scarcely be
called good: the large figures, in particular, display a certain
rotundity of form which I never observed in any Egyptian sculpture.
The smaller figures have also this peculiarity; but, from their
dimensions, it is not quite so perceptible, at least not so
striking. The hieroglyphics are very much defaced; indeed, those I
have copied are almost all that remain. The Ethiopians did not
group their hieroglyphics so well as the Egyptians: their striking
deficiency, in this respect, proves either a great corruption from
the Egyptian style, or, most probably, a great improvement made by
the latter on the Ethiopian invention. This is the more
extraordinary, as Diodorus informs us that the knowledge of
hieroglyphics was, in Egypt, confined to the priests: but that, in
Ethiopia, they were understood by all.</p>

<p>To any one who, like me, has made a long study of Egyptian
monuments, the style of the sculpture, even in the absence of any
known name, is generally sufficient to determine its epoch. This
fact, of which those travellers who have spent any length of time
in Egypt will be fully aware, may give additional<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_75">[75]</span> weight to my opinion of this
sculpture. It is all executed in basso relievo, with the exception
of the hieroglyphics, which are in intaglio. The style is certainly
by no means equal to the best at Thebes. It is unlike the style of
the age of Osirtesen, the Thothmes, Rameses II. (Augustan age),
Rameses III. (first decline), the florid style during the reign of
Psammitichus, or the clumsy inelegant productions of the Persian (I
refer to the sculpture in the temple of Darius in the Oasis Magna),
Ptolemaic, or Roman dynasties. There is no resemblance to any of
these styles, or appearance of its being a corruption from them.
The ornaments, on the fragments which still exist, are all
evidently peculiar to the country. Of the few that still remain,
many are not found in Egypt, and appear to represent the rites of a
religion much more simple and pure than the corrupted Egyptian
mythology. They bear the stamp of originality, and I should say,
therefore, that the Ethiopian style is antecedent to the others;
that it is the earliest, though not the best.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw7">
<figure id="pl09">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 9.</p>
<a href="images/pl09.jpg"><img src='images/pl09.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>From a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins
Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>“The Ethiopians,” says Diodorus, “describe the Egyptians as one
of their colonies led into Egypt by Osiris. They pretend, also,
that Egypt, at the commencement of the world, was nothing but a
morass; and that the inundations of the Nile, carrying down a great
quantity of the alluvial soil of Ethiopia, had at length filled it
up, and made it a part of the continent; and we see,” he says, “at
the mouth of the Nile, a particularity which seems to prove that
the formation of Egypt is the work of the river. After the
inundation, we remark that the sea has repelled on the shore large
masses of the alluvial soil, and that the land is increased.” Many
writers on Egypt have confirmed this statement of Diodorus. The
gradual increase of the depth of soil around different antiquities
enabled the French <em>savants</em>, unassisted by the science of
hieroglyphics, to decide, in many instances with tolerable
accuracy, the date of their construction. The depth of the alluvial
soil has ever been, and still continues, increasing; and as this
progressive<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[76]</span> increase
may, in every instance, be ascertained, there must have been a
period when there was little or none; when Egypt was a mere morass,
or rather a desert. The great population, power, riches, and
civilisation of the Egyptians astonish us, particularly as we know
that their prosperity was almost entirely derived from agriculture,
and that the fertility of the land was produced altogether by the
periodical overflowings of the Nile. These spread abundance and
happiness over the country, created numberless beautiful islands,
and changed into a smiling, luxuriant valley what was originally a
morass, or, more properly speaking, an arid desert.</p>

<div class="linegrp-container">
<div class="linegrp">
<div class="group">
<div class="line indent0">“Et viridem Ægyptum nigrâ fœcundat
arenâ.”<a id="FNanchor_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17" class=
"fnanchor">[17]</a></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>

<p>The first cause, then, of all this fruitfulness was Ethiopia. No
one, I think, will conceive it probable that a country originally
possessing such advantages could have been long unselected by the
descendants of Noah. Herodotus also calls the Ethiopians
aboriginal. Considering, then, the rapidity with which man
multiplies in a hot climate where no Malthusian restraints operate,
and in the full enjoyment of the ease and abundance which so rich a
soil must have secured to them, I think it not unreasonable to
conclude that Ethiopia, even before Egypt emerged from the Nile,
was peopled by a numerous and powerful race. I cannot conceive that
a country possessing such agricultural and other advantages—and
probably, on that account, the resort of surrounding and less
favoured nations—could long remain poor. Riches would introduce a
taste for elegance, and afford encouragement to invention; hence
the arts would derive their origin. The population increasing,
while the land, owing to the spoliations of the river, diminished
in extent and richness, the necessity of emigration became obvious.
At the command of their oracle, as was their custom (see Herodotus,
ii. 139.), they quitted their<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_77">[77]</span> homes and proceeded along the course of the
river; settling in the lower valley of the Nile: they would plant
there the religion, arts, and knowledge of their country. This
conclusion is confirmed by the following strong passage from
Diodorus, proving historically what is my own conviction from the
examination of their monumental remains. “It is from the
Ethiopians,” says he, “that the Egyptians learned to honour their
kings as gods, to bury their dead with so much pomp; and their
sculpture and their writing (hieroglyphics) had their origin in
Ethiopia.”<a id="FNanchor_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18" class=
"fnanchor">[18]</a></p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw11">
<figure id="pl10">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 10.</p>
<a href="images/pl10_large.jpg"><img src='images/pl10.jpg' alt=
''></a>
<p class="ipubr"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</p>

<p class="cp3">SCULPTURE IN ONE OF THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The following is a description of the most important pieces of
sculpture which I found on the walls of the porticoes. (<a href=
"#pl10">Plate X.</a> Sculpture.—Meroe.)</p>

<p>The principal figure in this plate is a queen, plainly attired
in a long robe, tight at the neck and ankles, and, what is not
usual in Egyptian sculpture, closely fitted to the legs. The whole
figure is singularly dissimilar to those represented in the
sculptures of Egypt. It is strongly marked by corpulency, a quality
still so desired by Eastern beauties; a curious circumstance, since
this rotundity of form, which is the distinguishing feature of
Ethiopian sculpture, and which, making its figures more bulky, and,
perhaps, clumsy, than the Egyptian, is nevertheless rather pleasing
to the eye, and, I think, more natural. I made this drawing with
the camera lucida, in order to give the figure exactly, without any
exaggeration. It will be observed that there are defects in the
proportions, similar and as numerous as in Egyptian sculpture; for
instance, the faulty manner of drawing the eye, the shortness of
the arms, and the form not being fully made out. This queen has in
one hand the lash of Osiris, and in the other a lotus flower. She
is on the seat having the form of a lion, which differs very little
from the one we often see on the walls of the temples<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_78">[78]</span> of Egypt. Her sandals greatly
resemble some specimens I have seen at Thebes, and are not unlike
those the peasants here now wear. She is seated under a canopy, the
top of which is decorated with the common Egyptian ornament of the
heads and necks of serpents.</p>

<p>Opposite to her have been placed three rows of figures, the
first of which is quite destroyed; the second is injured, but
sufficiently entire to render all the hieroglyphics and figures
intelligible. The first represents a female pouring out libations
to the queen. The vase into which the liquid is represented as
falling has a shape which I have never seen in Egypt. This figure
has the same rotundity of form, though, from the small scale, it is
less conspicuous in my drawing. Behind this are six smaller figures
or divinities. The first, from his attributes, and also the
hieroglyphics, is the god Thoth, with both hands raised. The next
is Horus, with two vases in his hands, from one of which he is
apparently pouring water upon plants in two vases, on a stand which
has nearly the form of a lotus-flower. Anubis is the next divinity,
and he also has a vase in his hand. On one side of this latter
figure is a vase, and on the other the lotus flower-stand. After
these figures is Kneph, behind whom is a rude and ugly-shaped vase:
then follow two figures very much defaced. From the hieroglyphics,
one of them must be Seb, but those of the other I am not acquainted
with. The only figure discernible in the third row is Anubis,
pouring libations. This plate then exhibits four of the divinities
generally represented in the judgment-scenes and mysteries of the
dead. Thoth, Horus, Anubis, and Kneph present offerings to the
queen, the occupant of the tomb.</p>

<p>The consideration of the hieroglyphics of this and the other
sculptures on the tombs of Meroe I will defer until another
opportunity; only remarking, that the composition of the groups is
rather inferior to that in the Egyptian edifices, and that the
names in the ovals are unknown. I must also state that it appears
to me that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[79]</span> there is
the name of Meroe in the last row of the tablet, before the queen.
There is the hieroglyphic of three hills, emblematical of land; the
plough and the disk, which, with the vowels generally omitted, may
be read, land of Mero, or, in Coptic, <span class="copt">Ⲙⲉ
ⲢⲎ</span>, “dilectus Sol,” not an inappropriate name. I have an
imperfect drawing (given me by Sir William Gell) of a coin found by
Mr. Ruppell, on one side of which is a boat and the three long
lines, emblematical of the inundation. Above the boat are,
apparently, the same two hieroglyphics of the plough and disk,
which I conceive to be the name of the capital of Ethiopia.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw11">
<figure id="pl11">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 11.</p>
<a href="images/pl11_large.jpg"><img src='images/pl11.jpg' alt=
''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>From a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins
Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp3">SCULPTURE IN THE PORTICO OF A PYRAMID AT MEROE.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p><a href="#pl11">Plate XI.</a> This exhibits a subject more
interesting. There has seemingly been a figure, similar to the
queen (in <a href="#pl10">Plate X.</a>), on a lion-formed seat, but
it is now too much defaced to discover exactly whether it has been
a king or a queen. The style of the sculpture is, however,
evidently Ethiopian. The centre of this group, also, is divided
into three rows. The highest contains a representation similar to
part of the great procession in the portico of Medenet Abou, at
Thebes. In this interesting little fragment we have a proof that
the Egyptians derived even their religious ceremonies from the
Ethiopians. Although this row of figures is exceedingly injured, I
distinguished clearly the jackal, ibis, and hawk standards, carried
by priests shaved, and with long robes, like those in the
procession at Medenet Abou; thus confirming what Diodorus says,
that “the priests in Ethiopia observe the same order and the same
customs as the Egyptians. Those who are devoted to the worship of
the gods purify themselves, shave, and dress, in the same manner.”
Following these standard-bearers is a curious figure of Anubis and
four priests bearing a boat, but almost defaced. I cannot agree
with those who suppose that this procession alludes to the
expeditions of the Ethiopians, undertaken at the command of their
oracle, or that it is as Heeren calls it the oracle ship. I
consider it rather a religious type, emblematical of<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_80">[80]</span> the passage of the soul into
immortality; the voyage to “the undiscovered land, from whose
bourne no traveller returns.”</p>

<p>In the same row of this plate we have Isis, Osiris, Horus, and
Thoth. The addition of the two former is important, when we
consider that they are in a real Ethiopian edifice. Osiris is
represented, as at Thebes, as president of Amenti, under the figure
of a mummy; his lash in his hand, and the head-dress of the globe
and feathers, &amp;c.</p>

<p>In the third row, Isis, with the head-dress of the hieroglyphic
called the throne, is caressing a hawk on a pedestal; the type of
her son Horus. The third row contains a variety of elegant vases.
We have here the true origin of many that were once thought Greek,
and only recently acknowledged to be Egyptian. The large figure,
offering with one hand a vase of incense, and with the other
pouring libations, is remarkable for his short girdle, made of the
skin of a lion. This is another proof of the originality of the
style. The common Egyptian and Ethiopian lion-formed seat had also,
very probably, its origin here, where lions abounded. If in Egypt
now, so thinly inhabited (compared to what it formerly was), there
are none of these animals, it cannot be supposed that they existed
there when the population was so much denser. Diodorus says, that,
as there was no wool in Ethiopia, the inhabitants covered their
nakedness with the skins of beasts; and the Ethiopians, under
Arsamenes (Herod. vii. 69.), are described as clothed with the
skins of panthers and lions. Strabo also says that some of them
only wear a cincture of skins, the sheep being without wool. The
ornament at the bottom of this plate is unique, representing
serpents standing erect, with arms and hands, in which they are
each holding a feather, the symbol of truth. I have never seen this
representation in Egypt, but it reminds me of some of the subjects
in the tombs of the kings. The ornament at the top of this plate,
representing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[81]</span> stars,
that is, the heavens, is constantly seen in Egypt, and is also,
seemingly, of Ethiopian derivation.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw11">
<figure id="pl12">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 12.</p>
<a href="images/pl12_large.jpg"><img src='images/pl12.jpg' alt=
''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>From a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins
Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp3">SCULPTURE IN A PYRAMID AT MEROE.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p><a href="#pl12">Plate XII.</a> (the third of Sculpture)
represents the inner tablet, or the three rows of figures, in a
subject upon the opposite wall, and is connected with the fragments
of two figures, and adorned with decorations defaced, but
apparently so precisely the same as <a href="#pl11">Plate XI.</a>
that I have thought it unnecessary to repeat them. The smaller
figures in this subject are also less perfect. In the first row is
the fragment of a figure certainly meant for Osiris; before him may
be distinguished four very small divinities, perhaps the genii of
Amenti, and a lion, seated on a pedestal, the executioner of
justice. In the same row is a curious group of four hogs. I have
been told that a representation of these animals once existed on a
tomb at Thebes; but this is the first time I have seen them
sculptured on any edifice in the valley of the Nile. In the second
row is a pedestal, upon which is the model of a monolithic temple.
On one side of the latter is a goose, and on the other a hawk,
emblematical of the divinities Seb and Horus; after which there is
a representation of a tree, with a figure on each side, followed by
Thoth, with his hands raised towards the figure of a mummy: the
head of the latter is defaced; but its shape is important, as
proving that the Ethiopians were acquainted with the art of
embalming. The third row contains a pedestal, or altar, on which
three figures are seated. One with the globe and horns is Isis; the
third, Horus; the other, is defaced: behind these is a large
twisted serpent. In the second row of this tablet, and also in
<a href="#pl11">Plate XI.,</a> is an altar or pedestal, on which
are cakes of bread, and in the midst of them the flowers of the
lotus; indicating, I conceive, that they are the bread of that
plant. The figure with a ceinture of lion’s skin, in both these
subjects, is pouring libations on the flowers, symbolical, perhaps,
of the reign of the king, who, like the inundation of the river,
had spread abundance and prosperity over the land. There were some
other fragments on the<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_82">[82]</span> porticoes, and in one I observed a balance,
and Thoth and Horus weighing the actions of the deceased before the
judge, Osiris; a common subject on the papyrus, and which is also
seen on the walls of the Temple of Athor at Thebes, &amp;c.</p>

<p>At the extremity of each portico, as before observed, is the
representation of a monolithic temple, above which are the traces
of a funeral boat filled with figures, but all too defaced to be
distinctly made out. In the centre of each boat is the sphere in
the usual concave socket; and I was able, with much difficulty, to
distinguish the divinities Kneph and Anubis. On each side of the
boat is a pedestal on which is the bird with a human face
representing the soul: one has a sphere on its head. Diodorus
mentions that some of the Ethiopians preserved the bodies of their
relations in glass (probably alabaster) cases, in order to have
them always before their eyes. These porticoes may have been used
to contain such cases.</p>

<p>I have carefully described this interesting and magnificent
cemetery; but how shall I attempt to express the feelings of the
traveller on treading such hallowed ground? One who, in passionate
admiration for the arts, had visited the chief galleries of Europe,
gazed upon the breathing image of divinity in the Apollo of the
Vatican, or the deep expression of the most poetical of statues,
the Dying Gladiator of the Capitol; who had beheld and felt the
pictorial creations of a Raphael and a Correggio, and, with
delight, contemplated Grecian, Roman, and modern sculpture, could
not be unmoved at finding himself on the site of the very
metropolis where those arts had their origin. The traveller who has
seen the architectural antiquities of Rome, and has admired the
magnificent use that nation has made of the arch, making it the
chief ornament of their baths, palaces, and temples, would be
further deeply interested at finding here the origin of that
discovery. These emotions would be felt with peculiar force by one
who, like myself, had been fortunate enough to trace art through
her<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[83]</span> earliest
creations,—from the splendid Gothic edifices of the north to the
ruins of the Eternal City—from Rome to Magna Græcia—from the
magnificent Temple of Neptune at Pæstum to the still purer
antiquities of Sicily, particularly at Girgenti, where nature and
art seem to have vied with each other—from that interesting island
to the Morea and the city of Minerva, where the knowledge of the
arts, sown in the most genial soil, produced the perfection of
elegance, chasteness, and magnificence. But the seeds of the
knowledge of the Greeks were derived from Egypt; and the Egyptians
received their civilisation from the Ethiopians, and from Meroe,
where I now am writing. The beautiful sepulchres of that city
afford satisfactory evidence of the correctness of the historical
records. Where a taste for the arts had reached to such perfection,
we may rest assured that other intellectual pursuits were not
neglected, nor the sciences entirely unknown. Now, however, her
schools are closed for ever, without a vestige of them remaining.
Of the houses of her philosophers, not a stone rests upon another;
and where civilisation and learning once reigned, ignorance and
barbarism have reassumed the sway.</p>

<p>These pyramids are of sandstone, the quarries of which are in
the range of hills to the east. The stone is rather softer than the
Egyptian, which, added to the great antiquity, may account for the
very dilapidated state of most of these ruins; and also for the
sculpture and hieroglyphics being so defaced. Time, and the burning
rays of a tropical sun, have given them a brownish red tint, in
some parts nearly black. As the operation of many ages is required
to make this change on a light-coloured sandstone, a further proof
is afforded of the great antiquity of the monuments. The stones
being small, and easily removed, it is fortunate that the chief
group of pyramids is so far distant from the Nile; otherwise, like
those on the plain, near the river, a great proportion of them
might have been carried away as materials for the erection of more
modern edifices.</p>

<p>This, then, is the Necropolis, or City of the Dead. But
where<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[84]</span> was Meroe, its
temples and palaces? A large space, about 2000 feet in length, and
the same distance from the river, strewed with burnt brick and with
some fragments of walls, and stones similar to those used in the
erection of the pyramids, formed, doubtless, part of that
celebrated site. The idea that this is the exact situation of the
city is strengthened by the remark of Strabo, that the walls of the
habitations were built of bricks: Εν δε ταις πολεσιν αἱ οικησεις εκ
φοινικινων σχιζων διαπλεκομεναι και τοιχων εκ πλινθων. These
indicate, without doubt, the site of that cradle of the arts which
distinguish a civilised from a barbarous society. Of the birthplace
of the arts and sciences, the wild natives of the adjacent villages
have made a miserable burying-place: of the city of the learned—its
“cloud-clapt towers,” its “gorgeous palaces,” its “solemn temples,”
there is “left not a rack behind.” The sepulchres alone of her
departed kings have fulfilled their destination of surviving the
habitations which their philosophy taught them to consider but as
inns, and are now fast mouldering into dust. As at Memphis,
scarcely a trace of a palace or a temple is to be seen. In this
once populous plain I saw the timid gazelles fearlessly pasturing.
The hyenas and wolves abound in the neighbouring hills. This
morning Signor B. met a man with the head of one which he was
carrying in triumph to his village: he said that he had been
attacked at once by three small ones when alone, and with no weapon
but his lance. The small villages of Bagromeh<a id=
"FNanchor_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a>,
south of the ruins, consist of circular cottages with thatched
conical roofs. The peasants have numerous flocks, which they send
to pasture on the plain. On the banks of the river I observed
cotton, dourah, and barley. Such is the present state of Meroe. It
is an ample requital for my toilsome journey, to have been the
first to bring to England accurate architectural drawings, &amp;c.
of all the remains of the ancient capital of Ethiopia, that city
which will ever live in the grateful recollection of those who love
the arts.</p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[85]</span><em>March 6.</em>
My rais informed me, this morning, that he could wait no longer;
that his orders from the Mahmoor were only to show us the ruins;
that he knew the governor wanted the boat; and that he would not
stay another night on any consideration. I should have wished to
have remained a few days more at this interesting place,
particularly with the view of making some excavations, but I must
confess I had no great hopes of the latter being of much avail.
Since the enterprising French traveller, M. Cailliaud was here, the
desert must have made great encroachments on the ruins in the
plain, as I saw nothing of the traces and almost plan, of a temple
which he has marked in his General Plate, No. XXXI.</p>

<p>It will be alleged that there are a great many discrepancies
between my architectural and picturesque views and those of M.
Cailliaud. I have only to remark that the former are by M. Bandoni,
a most skilful Italian architect and painter of acknowledged
reputation, whose sufficient recommendation to me was the patronage
of that most distinguished of British antiquarians, Sir William
Gell. The picturesque views are drawn by myself, with the utmost
care and attention, and with the camera lucida; so that I can vouch
for the correct position of every stone. M. Cailliaud has given
several pieces of sculpture from the propylons. I observed that the
façades of two of the porticoes were ornamented with sculpture,
representing a king sacrificing prisoners—a subject so often seen
in Egypt: they were very much injured; but had they struck me as
being so extraordinary as he has represented them, I should
certainly have drawn them separately. The figure which appears in
my camera view (<a href="#pl09">Plate IX.</a>) has none of those
peculiarities. The variations in the directions of the pyramids are
most accurately marked; for I was very particular in my directions
to Mr. B. on that subject. M. Cailliaud has left me the opportunity
of being the first to present to the public several interesting
pieces of sculpture, and numerous tablets which decorate the
interior of the porticoes.</p>

<hr class="chap">

<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[86]</span><a id=
"c07"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2>

<p class="csum">DEPARTURE FROM THE RUINS. — NUMEROUS VILLAGES, ONE
CALLED MEROUEER. — SHENDY. — FORTIFIED HOUSE OF THE MELEK. —
INSIGNIFICANCE OF THE PRESENT CAPITALS OF ETHIOPIA. — POPULATION OF
SHENDY. — BAZAAR. — PRICES OF CAMELS, SLAVES, ETC. — MANNER OF
TRANSACTING BUSINESS. — WOMEN OF SHENDY. — SLAVE SYSTEM. — POWER OF
THE ANCIENT MELEKS. — THEIR WIVES. — ARMY OF THE PASHA. — DEATH OF
ISMAEL PASHA. — METAMMAH. — THE KATSHEF OF THAT PLACE AND HIS
COURT. — KATSHEF OF SHENDY.</p>

<p class="nind"><span class="sc">At</span> five P.M., I left, with
great regret, the site of Meroe, and stopped for the night at half
past seven. The navigation of the river, in the dark, at this
season of the year, is dangerous, on account of the number of
rocks. We have passed, this evening, the village of Abukatab, to
the west, and on the east a large village called Kabushish, and an
island of the same name. We passed Garburiah, a large village to
the west, and we are now near El Gililife, a smaller one on the
same side. Yesterday, and this morning, I was greatly alarmed for
the health of my Dragoman. He has had a most violent dysentery,
which I have at last cured with opium and calomel; the former
sufficiently strong to keep him asleep. This attack might have been
fatal to him had he not possessed a very strong constitution.</p>

<p><em>March</em> 7. We set sail this morning, at six, with a
favourable wind, and passed, at nine, a large village called
Meroueer, on the west side. The resemblance to the ancient name is
obvious, but there are no remains. At ten we passed the village of
Sofra, to the west; at half past ten, the village of Gaher, same
side, and the small island of Addadiker. Shortly afterwards, we
passed the village of Unukatab, and arrived at Shendy at
twelve.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw15">
<figure id="i05"><a href="images/i05.jpg"><img src='images/i05.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">FORTIFIED RESIDENCE OF THE ANCIENT MELEKS, OR KINGS,
OF SHENDY.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p><span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_87">[87]</span><em>Shendy.</em>—On the eastern banks of the
river is one of the old fortified houses of the Meleks, now the
residence of the government. I called to pay my respects to the
Katshef, but was informed that he was asleep. I proceeded to the
town, which is about a mile distant from the river. Burckhardt, by
his very detailed account of Shendy, conveys almost an impression
that it is a considerable place; but, though the capital of a once
important province, that succeeded to all that remains of the
commerce of Meroe, as a city it can never have been worthy of much
notice. Any of the little towns in Lower and Upper Egypt have ten
times more the appearance of a metropolis. The houses are little
better than mere hovels; there are no shops, no <em>cafés</em>: the
country in the immediate vicinity is wretchedly barren. The town
may now contain 600 or 700 houses, and not more than 3000 or 3500
inhabitants. The dwellings are not crowded together, as in the
villages of Egypt; they are spacious, and have often interior
courts: the streets are wide, and there are in the town several
open spaces, or squares, some of which are used as
market-places.</p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[88]</span>It fortunately
happened to be the day of the bazaar, which gave me an opportunity
of seeing what articles were exposed for sale, and also of
observing the Arabs and peasants who attend the market. The most
valuable articles offered for sale were camels, dromedaries, and
slaves. The price of a male negro is from 10 to 20 dollars: they
are preferred young, being then more docile and less lethargic than
at a maturer age. Female slaves, when old, are valued according to
their acquirements: when young, being destined for the harem, they
rank according to their personal attractions, and vary from 30 to
100 dollars. Abyssinians, when young and beautiful, as they often
are, bring from 60 to 100 dollars. Camels were selling for 9 and 10
dollars each,—the best, 12 and 14; dromedaries, 12 and 20; and even
50 dollars for a high-bred Bishareen. There was a great show of
oxen with humps on their shoulders, like those of ancient Egypt, as
they are always represented on the walls. (See the one in the view
of a Dongolah cottage, <a href="#pl36">Plate XXXVI.</a>) There were
also sheep and goats in the bazaar: the sheep, 6 to 9 piastres
(1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> to 2<em>s.</em> 3<em>d.</em>), skin
included. The price of the goats, if they yield much milk, 10
piastres (2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>). I remarked several peasants
selling a coarse common kind of goat’s-milk cheese, for which there
is apparently a great demand. The Cairo merchants bring a variety
of articles: white cotton dresses; cutlery of a very inferior
quality, such as twopenny knives, or razors, which sell here for
fivepence; soap; Abyssinian coffee (very good); beads; shells;
small glass mirrors; kohl (antimony), to tint their eyelids, and
hennah to colour the hands of the swarthy beauties; and a variety
of spices and essences.</p>

<p>Their manner of dealing is peculiar. When I asked the price of a
camel (for I thought of buying some for my journey homewards), they
would not name one, but asked me how much I would give. I made an
offer for a dromedary to a man, who refused it, but still declined
saying how much he would demand. I soon gave<span class="pagenum"
id="Page_89">[89]</span> up such a tedious process of making a
bargain. I observed some good specimens of the Shendyan beauties.
(See <a href="#pl16">Plate XVI.</a>) They have their hair twisted
in tresses and hanging down on each side of their faces; their
dress is of coarse materials, but flowing, graceful, and generally
adjusted with much taste and elegance.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
<figure id="pl16">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 16.</p>
<a href="images/pl16.jpg"><img src='images/pl16.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by G. Scharf, from a Drawing by
L. Bandoni.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="width-half cp1">A WOMAN OF SHENDY.</td>
<td class="width-half cp1">MOUSSA.<br>
<span class="cp2">Son of a Melek of Berber.</span></td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>Shendy, Berber, Dar Shageea, Dongolah, &amp;c., previous to
their submission to the Pasha, had each its own Melek, independent
or tributary to the great Melek of Sennaar. Each of the sons of
these petty kings had estates assigned to him; but they all
acknowledged the head of the family, that is, the reigning Melek,
contributed to his support and defence, submitted to his laws and
commands, and served him in war. This order of Meleks, or nobles,
was most numerous; and they established their power by the same
base system alluded to in my account of Berber, and to which I
refer with reluctance, as developing the means by which the Meleks
obtained political influence in this part of the interior of
Africa. Such a profligate, and, fortunately, unique system of
family aggrandisement tended obviously to the complete
demoralisation of the country. They purchased, or made captive in
their wars, female slaves; of which some possessed thirty, others
as many as a hundred, and some five hundred. These unfortunate
creatures, as already stated, were placed by the meleks in the
different villages, and obliged to gratify the avarice of their
masters, and earn their own scanty livelihood by the abandonment of
their virtue. The only privilege these most wretched of slaves
possess is, that when they have paid to the melek a sum equal to
their purchase money or present value, the custom of the country
precludes him from selling them. It is at his option to sell or not
the child to the father. The price of the infant is generally from
150 to 200 piastres. The daughters, when grown up, succeed to their
mother’s “heritage of woe.” The compulsion under which these
victims act is some apology for this systematic depravity. They
pride themselves as superior to the common almæ, and are
not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[90]</span> considered in the
same light by the virtuous women in the village, who never admit
the almæ into their houses, or hold any intercourse with them.
These slaves, on the contrary, are not only permitted to visit them
and join in their occupations and festivals, but are admitted to
their friendship. They are allowed to be present at their wedding
and funeral ceremonies, though not to join in the dance. The sons
of these slaves, as already noticed, are sometimes sold,
particularly when the melek is in want of money; but generally they
are brought up to cultivate the ground of their chief, and, when
necessity requires, rally around his standard, and accompany him to
battle. From their earliest infancy, they are entirely devoted to
the despotic will of their melek; evincing great attachment to his
person, and zeal in the execution of his commands, as the only
means by which they can hope for emancipation. This singular kind
of family connection may, perhaps, account for the supreme
authority in this country having been so seldom disturbed, and for
the rare occurrence of those revolutions so common in such petty
uncivilised states. The result of the system was, that the melek
had always a large force of slaves and dependants, besides those of
the meleks his kinsmen, who were also implicitly devoted to his
will, and deeply interested in maintaining the peace and security
of the kingdom.</p>

<p>The meleks were the only aristocracy of the country. Each,
before the Pasha’s domination, took four wives; and many,
regardless of the limit set by the Koran, even more. They tell me
that Melek Tumbol of Argo has had twenty-one.<a id=
"FNanchor_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a>
Their wives, who are always daughters of meleks, pass their time in
the harem; for it is considered a degradation to have a son by a
slave or woman of low rank, or to allow their wives to work. The
Pasha, by depressing the meleks, has diminished,<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_91">[91]</span> but not destroyed, this system
of slavery; and at some future period it may be the means of
exciting a combined effort to expel his descendants. Serving, as
some of the Shageea slaves do, in his army, they have, of course,
learned the use of fire-arms, and could turn them against their
oppressors. There are 500 of the Shageea tribe in the pay of the
Pasha. But, perhaps aware that the security of their dominion over
this country consists in their discipline, and the superiority of
their arms, the government have not admitted into their army any of
the Arab tribes of this vicinity; and these Shageeas being at a
distance, near Habeesh, little danger is to be apprehended from
them now: indeed, so long as they are so far distant with the army,
they may be considered as hostages for the fidelity of their
province. Hourshid Bey, the governor of Sennaar, besides the 500
Shageea slaves, has also under his command nearly 5000 men,
consisting of Mograbins, from Lower Egypt, Fellaheen, and Turks.
With this force, he extends every campaign the Pasha’s dominion on
the Blue River, and sends every year never less than 500, and often
as many as 3000 slaves, the trophies of his victories, to
Cairo.</p>

<p>Before the conquest of Ismael Pasha, Shendy, I understand, was
rather more populous: but this was the town where that unfortunate
prince met his fate. The circumstances connected with this event,
according to the information I obtained here, differ, in some
respects, from those which have been stated by other travellers. It
might seem that the accounts obtained by those who passed
immediately after his death were likely to be most correct: but
often the contrary is the case; for events in the course of time
have new light thrown upon them, and the rashness and imprudence of
Ismael Pasha were naturally glossed over at the moment. He came
from Sennaar to Shendy with about ten Mamelukes. The Meleks Nimr
(tiger) of Shendy, and Messayad of Metammah (a eunuch who once
belonged to Sultan Foddal of Darfour), came to pay their homage to
him. The Pasha demanded<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_92">[92]</span> of Nimr a subsidy, to the value of 100,000
dollars, in money, slaves, and cattle: Nimr, in no very polite
terms, declared his inability, when the Pasha, in a fit of passion,
struck him with his pipe. Nimr, enraged at this insult, was on the
point of drawing his sabre and attacking the Pasha; but Melek
Messayad pacified him, advising him, in the dialect of the
Bishareen, which they both understood, to delay his revenge until
evening, and at present to promise a compliance with the exorbitant
requisition. The two chiefs, after leaving the presence, ordered
their slaves and people to prepare a quantity of wood. The Khasnar
Dar Bey of the Pasha observed these preparations, and was overheard
by an Arab advising the Prince to effect his escape: but the
latter, with the pride peculiar to the Turks, replied, “Am I not a
Pasha? and what Arab dare touch me?” A few hours after dark, they
surrounded the house with faggots, set fire to them, and the
unfortunate Prince and the Mamelukes who were with him perished in
the flames. Nimr fled up the country, married a daughter of a king
of Habeesh, and is still the inveterate enemy of the Turks. The
same night Melek Messayad fell upon the few troops that were
stationed at Metammah, and massacred them. Messayad was afterwards
killed by the Deftar Dar Bey, as were also a great number of the
Shendyans, suspected to be connected with the murder of the Prince.
In consequence of this event, the government have made Metammah, on
the opposite side of the river, their chief place of residence, and
several of the inhabitants of Shendy have removed thither.</p>

<p>Metammah, situated one hour’s walk from the river, is a much
more desolate-looking place than even Shendy. You see streets full
of sand, scarcely an inhabitant, no <em>brio</em>, no bazaar: the
houses are common hovels. Such are the present capitals of
Ethiopia. The only habitable abode is one of the fortified castles
of the Sheakhs, now occupied by a Katshef, who commands this part
of the province. I paid him a visit, but found<span class="pagenum"
id="Page_93">[93]</span> him a stupid fellow, and could procure no
information from him on any subject, especially concerning the
locality of the antiquities in the desert I was anxious to visit.
His house presented a complete contrast to that of the governor of
Berber, being filthy in the extreme, so that I was almost afraid to
sit down on his divan. The servants who presented the coffee were
the most wretchedly dressed fellows I have seen in the country. The
conversation was chiefly about backsheesh (presents), and the
spirit they exhibited, in discussing the prices of the camels I
required for my journey into the desert, was very disgusting. The
Katshef’s son entered the room, and fired off an English pistol at
the window,—a Turkish hint that another pistol would be acceptable.
The Katshef asked me to stop and dine with him; but really the
appearance of the place was not sufficiently promising to induce me
to accept his offer. He ordered me a horse to convey me back to my
tent, and gave me a dirty scoundrel as a guide who did not know the
road. The moon had not risen; and, it being extremely dark, we
missed the track in crossing the plain: fortunately, the light of a
fire, which I knew came from a hut near my boat, served me as a
guide. The horse, several times, nearly fell, in consequence of the
roughness of the ground. On arriving at my tent, I gave the urchin
three piastres, with which he was not satisfied, although the
clothes, or rather rags, on his back were not worth half the
sum.</p>

<p><em>March</em> 8. I returned this morning to Shendy, and waited
on the Katshef, an old retired officer, not now in the employ of
the Pasha; but, having been useful in his day, he receives his pay,
and lives here in good style. He gave us an excellent dinner: the
most remarkable dish was a preparation of meat with <em>raib</em>,
a kind of sour milk, which is very refreshing in this climate; he
also assisted us in making the necessary preparations for our
excursion into the desert.</p>

<hr class="chap">

<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[94]</span><a id=
"c08"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2>

<p class="csum">DEPARTURE FROM SHENDY. — DIFFICULTIES. — DESERT. —
VISIT FROM AND ANECDOTES OF LIONS. — IMMENSE RUINS. — CONFUSION OF
THE PLAN. — BUILT BY BAD ARCHITECTS. — DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE
PRINCIPAL TEMPLE. — STYLE OF THE SCULPTURE. — OTHER RUINS. —
SINGULAR SITUATION OF THE RUINS. — THE PURPOSE FOR WHICH THEY WERE
CONSTRUCTED. — THEIR PROBABLE AGE.</p>

<p class="nind"><span class="sc">March</span> 9. We left Shendy
later than we intended, having been delayed by the following little
difficulties. I had engaged from the government six camels, with
three drivers, of which they only sent me one driver. As I found I
should lose a day, or perhaps two, in going back to Metammah, and
there were said to be none procurable here, I was forced to yield
this point. I had also stipulated for a Turkish soldier, who
accompanied Cailliaud, and for a habeer (guide), and had agreed to
give twelve piastres per day for these two persons. Before setting
out, I asked the soldier, “where was the habeer?” “I am the
habeer,” he said. “Where, then,” asked I, “is the soldier?” “Oh,”
said he, “I am soldier and habeer both.” I was resolved not to
start without another, my own men not being sufficient to load the
camels. After a long dispute, he at length procured me an Arab.
This is a specimen of the little annoyances to which travellers are
generally liable in dealing with Turks. The desert to-day has had
the appearance of a shrubbery, being richly covered with long
yellow grass, acacias, tamarinds, and thorns, and enlivened with
numerous herds of gazelles. Every two or three minutes we saw six
or eight, but so wild that our attempts to approach them were
fruitless.</p>

<p><em>Ruins of Wady Owataib, or Mecaurat.—March</em> 10. We
started<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[95]</span> this morning
at six, and at eleven arrived at these interesting ruins. We
passed, at about nine, a range of soft sandstone hills, which run
from east to west.</p>

<p>I was surprised to find in this situation, which may be called
the interior of the Desert, such extensive remains of antiquity.
They consist of an edifice, containing temples, courts, corridors,
&amp;c. destined for purposes not religious only, but civil,
domestic, or military. After taking a general survey, I returned to
my tent for my portfolio, pencils, &amp;c. My dragoman met me, with
a bewildered look, and communicated to me intelligence which was
any thing but agreeable. A man, who was driving cattle, the only
person we have met to-day, came and asked my servants, who were
pitching the tent, if they were not afraid of lions, as they seemed
to be preparing to pass the night amongst the ruins. He told them
that he brought his cattle here to pasture only during the day,
when the lions are asleep in their dens among the mountains, but
through the night they prowl all over this part of the plain; and
only six nights ago four of them had killed three of his cattle,
within 200 yards of our tent. He showed them the spot where their
bones lay, and advised us immediately to quit this place, and
remove either to the Nile, or to a distant mountain, whither he was
going, and where we should be in safety. These tidings caused no
slight consternation in my little caravan; some repented having
come, others wished to return immediately; all seemed dismayed at
the idea of passing the night exposed to such unpleasant visiters.
Was I then to leave the antiquities of Meroe, and abandon the hope
of being able to procure any further memorials of their
magnificence? There were only two alternatives: to return with the
mortification of having failed in one of the great objects of my
journey, and still, as we could not arrive before night, perhaps
incur the same danger; or to take the necessary precautions for
defence in case of being attacked by these animals. I chose the
latter course, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[96]</span>
made my men collect all the wood that could be found, to keep up
fires during the night. I sent my dragoman and the Turkish soldier
towards the neighbouring hills, to see if they could discover any
traces of them. After an hour they returned, and said they had seen
none. The fact was, my dragoman did not know their footprints, and
the Turk concealed the truth. Scarcely had I finished an address to
my artist and servants, endeavouring to assure them that, after
this intelligence, we should, with proper precautions, be perfectly
safe, when, looking down, I perceived, in my very tent, the
distinct traces of a lion; but I put my foot upon them, and said
nothing. I could discover no other marks about the ruins; but a
very light wind is sufficient to efface the impression on a loose
sandy desert like this. This evening I have established a watch,
and kept it myself five hours. My servants are sleeping on the
ground, according to their custom, and have taken the precaution to
form the camels into a sort of fortification, by tying them down in
a circle round themselves. They are now all sleeping soundly,
unconscious of danger, except my habeer, who has fastened the heel
of his camel to his own leg, knowing well that the instinct of that
creature (trembling and restive whenever a lion is near) will warn
him of danger, and at the same time the animal will be prevented
from flying off and escaping without his master.</p>

<p><em>March</em> 11. I had not been long asleep, during the watch
of my servants and artist, when I was suddenly roused. The Turk had
seen two lions among the ruins, within 100 yards of my tent, and
had fired his gun to frighten them away. I immediately ordered
additional fires to be lighted: shortly afterwards, the peasant,
who had advised us against encamping here, came to us for
protection. By the light of the moon he had perceived the approach
of two lions, which, he said, were behind him in the plain. I went
a short distance from my tent, with the Turk, to reconnoitre, and I
heard them roaring at no considerable distance. The<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_97">[97]</span> roar soon became very distinct,
even in my tent, but it did not prevent my falling asleep, as I was
dreadfully fatigued by the previous day’s work, the long watch I
had made, and the excessive heat. This was yesterday extraordinary
for the season, being 110° in the shade (of the temple), though the
extreme has been hitherto 98° and 100°. I slept the remainder of
the night. This morning we found that the four lions had rambled
all over the ruins, and their traces were quite fresh in every
part. They had evidently been deterred only by our fires from
attacking us. I ascertained them, by their footsteps, to be two
males and two females; one of the males must have been very large,
the females much smaller.</p>

<p>Every place and country has its danger, but few spread more
alarm than this terror of the deserts. Seas and oceans have their
tempests, in which vessels are frequently shipwrecked; and, even in
smooth water, rocks and shoals send many to a watery grave. The
traveller, even on the king’s high road, has sometimes to dread
banditti. How many accidents occur even to the citizen on his
holyday trips! Thus he who has never quitted his native country,
and the traveller in foreign lands, are alike beset with perils;
but there are few dangers which cannot be alleviated, often
prevented, by prudent and precautionary measures, and which,
stripped of the terrors in which heated imaginations have clothed
them, present in their reality much that is alarming. By simply
keeping up a few fires, the merchants who pass these deserts sleep
securely, in defiance of their being infested by the most
formidable of all wild beasts. I should, however, state, that
instances are mentioned of fires not having this effect, when the
lions are excessively pressed by hunger, particularly at the season
when they require food for their young. Towards evening (for it is
very seldom, if ever, that the lion is seen during the day), one
alone has often arrested a large caravan. In some instances they
have been known to attack men; but are generally content with an ox
or a camel, which they<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_98">[98]</span> kill, and sometimes, particularly if they
have left their females or young in their den, carry away a large
part on their shoulders. The number of these animals must increase
rapidly every year, for it is very seldom that an instance occurs
of one being killed.</p>

<p>They tell me, that a party of twenty peasants went lately to
destroy two which had taken a station within a very short distance
of the river, and committed great ravages among the flocks. The men
were armed with lances, shields, and sabres. They traced the lions
to their den, and began lighting fires, to drive them out. The
female darted past them immediately. The male remained some time,
until he could no longer endure the smoke, when he began to roar in
a most terrific manner; he then rushed out, infuriated, upon the
peasants: not one, however, of these gallant assailants had the
courage to fling his lance, but each, without any consideration for
the fate of his friends, sought his own security in flight.
Fire-arms only are of use against these formidable animals, but the
Italian proverb is said to be true of them:—<em>Il lione ferito
alla morte non s’avvilisce ancora</em>. They are generally seen two
and four together, often more, but always in pairs. They are very
rarely disturbed; and, as no attempts have been made to exterminate
them, their number is said to have increased considerably during
these last few years. This may be considered the place where their
haunts begin. They infest the road to Sennaar and the west side of
the Atbara; but travellers incur less danger in the beaten track of
the caravans than when, like us, they deviate from it.</p>

<p>The reader will recollect that, at the entrance of this desert,
I observed great numbers of gazelles, but for several miles round
these ruins and hills I saw none. These timid creatures prefer the
risk of approaching the habitations of man, considering the arts of
the peasants to destroy them less perilous than the vicinity of the
lions. The latter know the places in the plain where the gazelles
sleep, and, favoured by the darkness of night, dart
upon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[99]</span> their victims,
whose superior swiftness only avails them when sometimes the
roaring of their enemy intimates his approach. The Arabs tell some
singularly superstitious tales of the generosity of the lion. The
following has been related to me as a fact, by different peasants;
but I must confess that, like the generality of Arab tales, it
partakes of the marvellous: yet, perhaps, with a <em>mélange</em>
of fable, there may be some kind of foundation of truth. They say,
that when the lion seizes the cow of a peasant, he will permit the
owner to carry away a portion; particularly if he asks for it in
the name of his mother, wife, or family, <em>and takes it without
showing any fear</em>.—I must apologise to the antiquarian, and
perhaps to readers in general, for this long digression from my
description of these antiquities, but I promised to give some
account, not only of the remains, but also of the present
inhabitants of Ethiopia.</p>

<p>The plan (see <a href="#pl13">Plate XIII.</a>) which I give of
these ruins was made with the utmost care by my artist, Mr. B., and
drawn out on the spot. I can testify for the pains that were taken
to render it as accurate as possible. The ruin is too much
destroyed for the plan to be perfectly correct, as to the size and
situation of some of the doors, and the dimensions of many of the
apartments; still, there is all that is necessary to exhibit to the
reader the general form of the edifice. Even if all the walls were
remaining, without any inscription to elucidate them, it would
still be doubtful what this extraordinary mass of building has
been. The appearance of the ruins is very imposing, from their
immense extent; and I will give a detailed description of them, as
they are certainly the most curious and inexplicable I have yet
seen in Ethiopia. They consist of chambers, courts, corridors, and
temples, in an enclosure or parallelogram, 760 by 660 feet; but in
more accurate numbers the entire circumference is 2854 feet. The
north-east side is 660 feet long; the north-west, the only side on
which there are entrances,—</p>

<table class="tabw40 bd-collapse" id="t100">
<tr>
<th>
</th>
<th>
</th>
<th class="width4">Ft.</th>
<th>In.</th>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdl-top hang1"><span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_100">[100]</span>From the angle to the door</td>
<td class="tdr-bot pad-right1">88</td>
<td class="tdc-bot">0</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdl-top hang1">Width of the door</td>
<td class="tdr-bot pad-right1">13</td>
<td class="tdc-bot">0</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdl-top hang1">To the central entrance</td>
<td class="tdr-bot pad-right1">220</td>
<td class="tdc-bot">6</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdl-top hang1">Width of the central
entrance</td>
<td class="tdr-bot pad-right1">16</td>
<td class="tdc-bot">0</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdl-top hang1">Thence to the other
entrance</td>
<td class="tdr-bot pad-right1">228</td>
<td class="tdc-bot">0</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdl-top hang1">Width of that entrance</td>
<td class="tdr-bot pad-right1">16</td>
<td class="tdc-bot">0</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdl-top hang1">Thence to the angle</td>
<td class="tdr-bot pad-right1">188</td>
<td class="tdc-bot">0</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdc">Total</td>
<td>north-west side</td>
<td class="tdr-bot bt pad-right1">769</td>
<td class="tdc-bot bt">6</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td>south-west side</td>
<td class="tdr-bot pad-right1">665</td>
<td class="tdc-bot">0</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td>south-east side</td>
<td class="tdr-bot pad-right1">760</td>
<td class="tdc-bot">0</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td>north-east side</td>
<td class="tdr-bot pad-right1">660</td>
<td class="tdc-bot">0</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td colspan="2" class="tdl-top hang1">Total circumference of the
edifice</td>
<td class="tdr-bot bt bbdb pad-right1">2854</td>
<td class="tdc-bot bt bbdb">6</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p>On the north-east, south-east, and south-west sides, there are
no entrances into the enclosure. The wall on the north-west side
cannot be traced accurately through its whole extent. There have
apparently been three entrances on this side; the central one,
which is the most distinguishable, leads into a large court, 620
feet wide and 144 feet long. Opposite to the central entrance, on
the south-east side of the court, is a long narrow corridor, 8 feet
wide and 205 feet long, which leads to the principal temple,
situated in a court 94 feet long by 85 feet wide. To give an exact
idea of the situation of this court, I should state, that from the
wall of the court to the enclosure on the south-east side is 106
feet; 165 feet to the enclosure on the south-west side; 204 feet
from the north-west and 150 feet from the north-east side. Although
not exactly in the centre of the structure, a slight examination of
the plan will enable the reader to perceive that, from its
situation, size, and the circumstance of the corridors leading into
it, that edifice was, evidently, the principal temple: it is 47
feet long, from north-west to south-east; and 40 feet 6 inches
broad. The large court, and the corridor from it to the temple, in
a line with the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[101]</span>
central entrance of the enclosure, clearly indicate that the grand
entrance was on the west side; and yet it is singular there is no
doorway in the temple on that side. There are five entrances into
the latter; one on the south-east side, two on the north-east, and
two on the south-west. In front of the south-east end have been
twelve columns, three feet and a half in diameter, in two rows of
six each; before the west end, six columns, and five at each side,
not including the columns at the angles: making, altogether,
twenty-eight columns. There are the remains of four columns, which
ornamented the interior of the temple. In front of it, on the
south-east side, is a doorway which leads into a room 20 feet by
26, with two chambers on one side and one on the other; before them
is an inclined parapet: an architectural ornament to the façades of
temples, of which there are examples even in the best style of
Egyptian edifices, such as at Solib. (<a href="#pl40">Plate
XL.</a>) The axis of the door leading through this room to the
parapet is the same as that of the central edifice into the temple.
The circumstance of this inclined parapet wall, and there being a
double row of columns only at this end of the temple, prove that it
fronted to the south-east.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw6">
<figure id="pl13">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 13.</p>
<a href="images/pl13.jpg"><img src='images/pl13.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>From a Drawing by L. Bandoni.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp3">RUINS OF WADY OWATAIB OR MECAURAT.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The court containing the inclined parapet leading into the
temple is 125 feet wide and 75 feet long: several doors lead out of
it; one to the east into a court of 96 feet long and 165 feet
broad, in which is a small temple fronting the south-west. A few
rows of steps lead up to a portico which was ornamented with four
columns, fragments of which are still remaining. On each side of
the door leading from the portico into the temple is a colossal
statue, very much mutilated, being now without either head or arms.
They are attached to the wall in the Egyptian manner, and they have
the attitude of one foot advanced before the other, like the
Egyptians. The style of one is tolerably good; the other, that is,
the one on the east side of the doorway, is much inferior. They are
accurately represented in my drawing. The exterior of this little
temple is 53 feet by 45: at the angles<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_102">[102]</span> is the Egyptian beading. The doorway is
ornamented with a twisted serpent on each side. The interior, which
consisted of one room, contains the remains of two columns without
their capitals. From their situation, there appears to have been
originally six: on the walls are some rude scratches, but
undoubtedly modern. South of the principal temple is a large court,
258 feet long and 248 feet broad. On the north-east side of the
principal temple is a corridor 7 feet wide and 96 feet long, having
a north-west direction, whence it turns to the south-east for 45
feet, and leads into a court where there is another small temple:
this had also a portico before it, which was ornamented with four
columns. The exterior of this temple measures 52 feet by 29. In the
interior there are now the remains of four columns, from the
position of which there seem to have been originally eight. On the
south-west side of the principal temple is a corridor 86 feet long
and 12 feet wide, having a south-west direction, whence it turns to
the north-west for 20 feet, and leads to some small<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_103">[103]</span> rooms, and also into a large
court 88 feet long, containing two small chambers, in one of which
are the fragments of three columns.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw14">
<figure id="i06"><a href="images/i06.jpg"><img src='images/i06.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">SMALL TEMPLE AT WADY EL OWATAIB.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<div class="figcenterplate iw4">
<figure id="pl14">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 14.</p>
<a href="images/pl14.jpg"><img src='images/pl14.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone from a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins
Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">WADY OWATAIB.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>I will attempt no further description of this extraordinary
edifice. The reader will perceive, from the inspection of the plan
(<a href="#pl13">Plate XIII.</a>), how utterly impossible it is to
give a more detailed, and, at the same time, clear, description of
its various compartments. The confusion of successive rooms,
corridors, small and large courts, and temples, together with the
total absence of any attempt at regularity, excited my curiosity to
find out the nature of this singular construction. It has evidently
been built by wretched architects, at different periods, in an age
when the art had sadly declined in Ethiopia; but, before alluding
to the different surmises concerning the object of its erection, I
will first give a detailed description of the principal temple in
the centre. The view (<a href="#pl14">Plate XIV.</a>) will give a
good idea of its present state of preservation. The columns in
Plates <a href="#pl13">XIII.,</a> <a href="#pl14">XIV.,</a> and
<a href="#i06">vignette,</a> executed architecturally, will
sufficiently indicate the style of art: a few fragments of capitals
alone remain, and those are on the north-east side of the temple.
It will be seen by <a href="#pl14">Plate XIV.</a> that the forms
only of several of the capitals are visible, but only one fragment
has the appearance of having been finished. (See <a href=
"#i06">vignette.</a>) Their form is somewhat similar to that usual
in the Ptolemaic age of architecture in Egypt; but the ornaments of
the fragment, above alluded to, consist only of parallel lines:
whether these terminated in the lotus flower cannot be ascertained,
but there certainly is a resemblance, though not complete, to a
Ptolemaic capital. Under the capital of this column are seven rows
of beading; the rest of the shaft, consisting of five pieces, is
fluted, except the lowest stone, which is ornamented with the lotus
flower. The style of the fluting is Grecian. The shaft swells out a
little towards the lower part, and is rounded off at the bottom. It
bears another resemblance<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_104">[104]</span> to the Egyptian style in the base it rests
upon being circular. There remains one fragment (see <a href=
"#i07">vignette</a>), of a fluted column with a smooth panel in the
centre, in which a wreath is sculptured in imitation of the leaves
of the palm tree. Another fragment of a column is ornamented with
sculpture, and at the base the triangular ornament not unlike the
Egyptian.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw18">
<figure id="i07"><a href="images/i07.jpg"><img src='images/i07.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">COLUMNS AT WADY EL OWATAIB.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The sculpture is in very high relief—not less than 1¾ inch; but
the style is decidedly bad: the figures are generally from about 3
to 4 feet in height; and, notwithstanding their defaced condition,
I could distinguish that some of them are <em>en face</em>; but the
rudeness of the execution of what remains perfect, demonstrates an
epoch when the arts had wofully degenerated in this their parent
land. At Uffidunia, in Lower Nubia, an edifice well known to be
Roman, there is a piece of sculpture on the detached propylon very
much in this style. The view (<a href="#pl15">Plate XV.</a>)
represents fortuitously almost all the most perfect fragments which
now exist; and so completely shows the style of the sculpture, that
I regretted the less not having time to make separate<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_105">[105]</span> drawings, particularly as not
a single hieroglyphic remains, or has ever existed, to elucidate
the sculpture. I trust, therefore, that the accurate notes I took
on the spot, of every fragment I could find, and the specimens of
the style in my drawings, will be considered quite sufficient. What
sculpture remains, is chiefly on the lower part of two columns and
on several fragments which lie scattered about: some of the figures
are <em>en face</em>, and some <em>en profile</em>. Notwithstanding
their defaced condition, I distinguished the following:—Thriphis
with the lion’s head, <em>en profile</em>; the hawk-headed divinity
(Horus); two figures, seemingly goddesses, but not very
discernible, <em>en face</em>; a divinity with a vase; Kneph,
<em>en face</em>, with a globe at his breast; a goddess, <em>en
face</em>, in a kind of monolithic temple. On another fragment I
discerned a figure presenting offerings with one hand, and the
other raised behind his head. On another large fragment, Isis,
Horus, and a king were discernible: the ovals of his name seem
never to have been filled up. On another fragment I observed a
border consisting alternately of a lion and the goddess of truth
with outstretched wings. As there are no hieroglyphics, the names
of these divinities are, of course, only inferred from the presence
of their usual attributes. Except on these fragments of columns in
front of the central temple, there are no other remains of
sculpture in any part of these ruins, with the exception of the two
fragments of colossal statues I have before alluded to as
ornamenting the façades of the small temple to the east. There are
some other ruins at a short distance from the great enclosure, but
they are of little importance. One of the rooms contains the
remains of six columns, on one of which is sculptured an elephant
destroying a dog with his trunk, and on another a winged lion is
represented killing a man.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw7">
<figure id="pl15">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 15.</p>
<a href="images/pl15.jpg"><img src='images/pl15.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by W. P. Sherlock, from a Drawing
by G. A. Hoskins Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">WADY OWATAIB.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>I have now only to advert to the singular situation of these
ruins, their probable use, and the age when they were most probably
erected. In a direct line, they are distant from the river six
hours’ journey, which may be sixteen or eighteen miles.
About<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[106]</span> a quarter of
a mile from the ruin, I saw three or four blocks of stones, but no
indication of their having formed part of an aqueduct, and there
are no traces of wells; but both may have existed, and be now
entirely buried by the sand of the desert. I could not, however,
observe or hear of any decided traces of aqueducts between the ruin
and the river. The occupants of the edifice may have been supplied
with water by geerbahs, as the peasants of Metammah and other
villages distant from the river are at this day.<a id=
"FNanchor_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a>
If the edifice was only used as a residence during the season of
the malaria, the rain water might have been preserved in cisterns
and in the sacred lakes; but rain does not invariably fall here
every year, and would afford, therefore, only a precarious supply.
Those, however, who constructed such a building would certainly
know how to sink a well, and, from the appearance of the ground,
the trees, and the vicinity of the mountains, I do not conceive it
would be a very laborious undertaking to find water.</p>

<p>Cailliaud considered this edifice to have been a college of
priests; and Professor Heeren supposes it to be the celebrated
Ammonium. I think neither of these suppositions probable. With
regard to the first, we know that the priests were always
surrounded with representations of the divinities and the
mysterious language of hieroglyphics; but is it not remarkable that
there is no structure either in Egypt or Ethiopia so destitute of
the sacred writing as this? The priests, also, are supposed, with
great probability, to have themselves executed the sculpture and
hieroglyphics; and they cannot be imagined to have been
unacquainted with that language. It must, on the contrary, have
formed a principal branch of their education. I think it,
therefore, very improbable that the place where they would be
occupied in teaching hieroglyphics should, of all the ruins in the
valley of the Nile, be the only one destitute of them; that where
instruction was given in the mysteries of their<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_107">[107]</span> religion, there should be so
few representations of the gods, and those few almost of no use to
the student, from being unexplained by hieroglyphics. One would
imagine they would have gladly availed themselves of the
opportunity of the unoccupied walls to exercise the skill of the
students. If this were a college, their system of education must
assuredly have been very defective, if they did not take care to
have the mysteries they taught represented on the walls of the
universities, and not on those of the temples only. We must
consider the Ethiopians as ignorant indeed, if we suppose that they
neglected to place them where they would have been really useful,
while they covered with these subjects their temples, where they
would be less observed, and the interior of the porticoes of their
tombs, which were rarely opened. Had it been a college, some urchin
would have shown his progress in the study by carving his name in
hieroglyphics; and, considering that this was more the fashion with
the ancients than the moderns, we should have as long a list of
Ethiopian names <em>here</em> as we have of English at Eton or
Harrow. In such a seminary, I conceive, the walls of the chambers,
corridors, and temples, inside and outside, like the temples and
palaces of Egypt, would have been decorated with sculpture. The
walls are not rough, but smooth and finished; it has therefore not
been the original intention to embellish them with such
subjects.</p>

<p>Had this edifice, as Professor Heeren supposes, been the
Ammonium, the original seat of the oracle of Jupiter Ammon, at
whose command those religious colonies issued forth, which carried
civilisation, arts, and religion from Ethiopia to the Delta; had
this been the centre and stronghold of the superstitions of the
Nile; the priests, the guardians of the sacred rituals, would not
have omitted to decorate the abode of their great divinity with art
and magnificence proportionate to the wealth and power of so great
a nation. Well aware of the awe with which the appearance of
mysterious learning inspires the vulgar, they would not have
neglected to adorn<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[108]</span>
the walls with imposing and mysterious subjects, to augment their
veneration, to excite them to devotion, and to munificence in their
offerings to the god. It accords in no degree with the religious
pomp elsewhere displayed by the Ethiopians and Egyptians, to
conceive that this unfinished and comparatively insignificant
temple contained the golden altar, the “holiest of holies,” of
their great divinity. That the great Ethiopian oracle, whose
celebrity even Homer has testified, should not have had a more
magnificent habitation than this, cannot be admitted. We know, from
Pausanias and others, the costly presents which were made to the
oracles of Greece; and can we conceive that the Ethiopians,
probably equally, if not as more ancient, a much more religious and
superstitious people, would have allowed their celebrated Ammonium
to be the least finished, least magnificent and imposing, of all
the temples which now exist in the valley of the Nile?</p>

<p>It is a more probable supposition that, as the wealth of the
oracle of Apollo at Delphi exposed it from the beginning to the
enterprises of avaricious and impious men, and was too powerful a
temptation even to the Phocians, in the same manner the great
oracle of Ammon in the valley of the Nile, particularly in a
country like Ethiopia, where history tells us that gold was once so
plentiful, might suffer from the celebrated altar which was
dedicated to its worship being loaded with the valuable and
magnificent devotional offerings of a wealthy and superstitious
people. Such parade and splendour would serve as incentives to the
enemies of their religion, equally anxious to appropriate the spoil
and eradicate the superstitions of the worshippers of Ammon. But it
is most probable that, at the time when the religion of the Gospel
was widely spread in this part of Africa, some Christian king of
Ethiopia, zealous, and desirous of obliging his subjects to embrace
the true religion, and aware that, if his faith prevailed at all,
it must prevail, to use the language of Paley, by the overthrow of
every statue,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[109]</span>
altar, and temple in the world, may have utterly destroyed not only
the Ammonium, but also many of the other temples; and this may
account for the few remains of sacred edifices which are now found
in Ethiopia. Another argument, in answer to the supposition of
Professor Heeren, is, that, among the numerous representations of
the divinities on the columns of the principal temples, there is
not one single figure of Ammon, except with the attributes of
Kneph.</p>

<p>This edifice may have been a <em>château de chasse</em> of the
king, or a palace in which he passed the rainy season, which might
then, as now, be unhealthy near the Nile. The objection to this
supposition is, that the kings as well as the priests were
generally, and probably always, surrounded with religious pomp and
ceremony. I conceive it, therefore, a more reasonable conjecture
that it was an hospital, to which invalids, particularly those
suffering from malaria, were sent during the rainy season. This
will account for the immense courts and chambers, and the
insignificance of the temples, evidently intended for persons of
little consideration. From the experience I have had of the climate
of the desert, I must say I consider them much more healthy, in any
season, than the valley of the Nile. At the instigation, I
conceive, of some person acquainted with this fact, the Pasha
established a splendid hospital and college at Abou Zabel, situated
in the Desert, about twelve miles from Cairo. The dryness of the
atmosphere, the sand immediately absorbing any rain that falls,
renders these wildernesses in the highest degree salubrious. The
stones of which this edifice is constructed are nearly the same
size as those of the pyramids of Meroe; that is, about 1 foot high
and 2½ feet long, and are apparently quarried from the neighbouring
hills.</p>

<p>With regard to the antiquity of the ruins, it does not appear to
me to be very great. The sculpture, which, in the absence of
hieroglyphics, forms the only criterion, resembles, as already
mentioned, that on the propylons at Uffidunia; not exactly
indicating<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">[110]</span> that
they were built at the same period, but that they belonged equally
to the last stage of sculpture in the two countries; and, as the
arts first flourished in Ethiopia, they may have decayed there
earlier than in Egypt, particularly as the wealth and power of this
country diminished more rapidly, the Nile washing down to the lower
valley the source of their affluence and prosperity. From the
Grecian character of the fluting of the columns, as well as from
the plan of the temple and sculpture, it is not improbable that
this edifice was constructed about the period of Ergamenes, whose
reign was coeval with that of Ptolemy II. Diodorus describes this
king of Ethiopia as having had a Greek education, and having
introduced into this his native country a taste for the philosophy
of Greece, and delivered himself and his people from the tyranny of
the priests; and perhaps, I may add, he endeavoured, by the
introduction of foreign ornaments, to regenerate a taste for
architecture and sculpture: but in this specimen we only see the
last effort of a people whose greatness was passed away, their
taste corrupted, and all the lights of knowledge and civilisation
just expiring. The elegant pyramids of Meroe differ as widely, in
taste and execution, from the immensely extensive but ill-planned
ruins of Wady el Owataib, as the best sculpture at Thebes, during
the age of Rameses II., differs from the corrupted style under the
Ptolemies and Cæsars.</p>

<hr class="chap">

<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">[111]</span><a id=
"c09"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2>

<p class="csum">DEFICIENCY OF WATER. — RETURN TO THE NILE. — WILD
ANIMALS. — ANCIENT CANAL. — TEMPLE OF ABOU NAGA. — DIFFICULTIES. —
THE MODERN CAPITALS OF ETHIOPIA. — SENNAAR. — THE DIFFICULTY OF
PENETRATING TO THE SOURCE OF THE BAHR EL ABIAD. — TRIBE OF ARABS ON
ITS BANKS. — WATER LESS SWEET THAN THAT OF THE BAHR EL AZRUK. —
ARAB DESCRIPTION OF THE RIVER. — INUNDATION OF THE NILE. — RETURN
TO SHENDY. — MAMELUKE EXERCISE.</p>

<p class="nind">I <span class="sc">had</span> intended to have
proceeded from the ruins of El Owataib to those of El Mecaurat,
farther in the Desert; but my stock of water was almost exhausted,
in consequence of my guide and camel-driver not having brought
their own supply, according to agreement, also on account of
several of my own geerbahs proving bad, and our consumption, owing
to the extreme heat, having been twice what we expected. Signor
Bandoni seems to be apprehensive of a deficiency, and anxious to
guard against it; for yesterday evening I found him in my tent with
his mouth at a three-gallon geerbah. His draughts were profounder
than his philosophy, for by his earnestness he seemed intent on
trying whether he himself possessed that valuable faculty which his
experience in the desert had taught him the camels possess; that of
imbibing, at one draught, a sufficient store for a week. We left
the ruins at half-past twelve, and arrived at the Nile at half past
six. We saw on our road numerous traces of the lions, hyenas,
tigers (nimr), wild asses, and ostriches, and near the river,
guinea-fowls. Shortly before arriving at the Nile, we passed the
bed of a canal which seemed to be ancient. They informed me that it
extends very far into the Desert towards the ruins of Mecaurat.</p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">[112]</span><em>March</em>
11. We left this morning at seven, and reached the ruins of Abou
Naga at nine. The two square pillars which remain of this temple,
are very curious. On each side is a representation of what is
generally called a figure of Typhon, above which is the head of
Isis or Athor. These figures are very much injured, but the style
is extremely bold and decidedly very ancient. The people above
Meroe, says Diodorus, worship Isis and Pan, and also Hercules and
Zeus. This Typhonian figure is called Pthah by many, and considered
as an immediate emanation from Jupiter. We have here two more
divinities to add to the Ethiopian list: I use this name, for of
all the antiquities existing in the valley of the Nile, these have
the most ancient appearance. The <a href="#i08">drawing</a> will
give an exact idea of the style of the sculpture. The reader will
remark that this is no effort of a feeble and corrupt taste, no
imitation of a foreign (Egyptian) style, but the
spirited<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[113]</span> work of an
early period, when the productions of art would naturally be more
remarkable for force and vigour than for exquisite or delicate
finish. There are no hieroglyphics, nor any appearance of there
ever having been any, which may be considered another proof of
their great antiquity, an edifice in which they are absent must
either be of the most ancient or most modern date: and certainly
this latter description cannot belong to the present structures.
The style has evidently the stamp of originality, and I therefore
think it may be considered a fragment of perhaps one of the most
ancient temples which has ever been erected in honour of the two
great divinities, Isis and Typhon, or rather, I should say, of the
two principles of good and evil existing in the world: for Isis,
the Ceres of the Greeks, is a type of that benevolent care of the
Deity which furnishes men with the fruits of the earth; and she is
worshipped under the form of a woman, emblematical of the maternal
fondness of the great divinity. Under that view, she is sometimes
represented with her son, the infant Horus, on her knees, as the
source of the multiplication and increase of the human race.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw14">
<figure id="i08"><a href="images/i08.jpg"><img src='images/i08.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">TEMPLE OF ABOU NAGA.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The figure which, in deference to the general opinion, I have
called Typhon, has been considered by many to be that of Pthah,
from the circumstance of almost similar representations having been
found with the name of that divinity in hieroglyphics; but, in the
absence of any inscription to decide the question of what this
figure has been, I must confess that I conceive it not impossible
that it may be the Hercules of the Ethiopians. Hercules, or the god
of strength, would be a type of the attribute of power in the great
divinity; and that this should be a leading representation in the
primitive ages, is not surprising, as, of course, muscular strength
would then be the endowment most highly prized. The fables of
Hercules clearing the earth of monsters were very probably partly
derived from Ethiopia, together with the worship of the divinity.
The mythology of the Ethiopians, as I may, perhaps,<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_114">[114]</span> venture to mention more
particularly on a future occasion, appears by no means to have been
a gross polytheism. I do not mean to say that the “uncultivated
mass,” as Gibbon styles them, very little removed in point of
intellect from their fellow-labourers the oxen, could have
entertained very pure notions of religion; I only agree with those
who conceive that the more educated and enlightened classes
worshipped these different symbolical forms, not as separate and
equally powerful divinities, but as the types of the different
attributes of the One great Deity. This temple, which was about 150
feet long, seems to have been ornamented with six pilasters, five
feet square; but it was impossible to trace the plan
satisfactorily: and as I conceive the materials to have been
carried away, an excavation would be of little use. The
plan<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[115]</span> (2300 feet in
circumference) shows that the town has been small, and built of
sun-burnt bricks.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw14">
<figure id="i09"><a href="images/i09.jpg"><img src='images/i09.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">PLAN OF THE RUINS NOW CALLED ABOU NAGA.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>I had intended to have gone from this place to the ruins of
Mecaurat, at eleven hours’ distance in the desert. The soldier who
officiated as my guide, on leaving the ruins of Wady el Owataib
yesterday, said that we could not visit the ruins of Mecaurat, as
they were situated farther in the desert; that we should most
probably meet with lions on the road; and that the danger would
indubitably be much greater than on the preceding night; that, at
this season of the year, it was folly to think of going there
without a guard or large caravan; and, to conclude, that he would
not incur the responsibility of taking me. This morning, to my
surprise, he said he was willing to accompany me, if I desired. In
this uncertainty I asked for information from the sheakhs and
different peasants I met; and the result of these enquiries was,
that, Mecaurat being farther in the mountains, lions are much more
numerous there than at Wady el Owataib; that we should probably
fall in with them on the road; that this was the most dangerous
season, from their food being scarce, and that none of the peasants
lead their flocks there, since fires do not always succeed in
repelling them. A few years ago there were few or none; but now the
number was so great that I ought not to hazard going. In fact, not
one, by bribes or threats, could be induced to join our
caravan.</p>

<p>Notwithstanding this discouraging information, I was anxious not
to leave any of the antiquities of Ethiopia unexplored; and I felt
that I might have gone without very great risk, because we had a
proof, the night before last, of the effect of fire in frightening
lions away; and I believe, as long as there are camels, or any kind
of cattle, they would not, if unmolested, attack a human being. I
had learned, also, that there was one edifice not much ruined, and
conceived that in it a fortification might soon be made, which a
lion could not penetrate. My servants seemed evidently afraid, but
said,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[116]</span> wherever I
went they would accompany me; but my artist made so many objections
that I told him, in disgust, he might go or not, as he thought
proper. He took me at my word, and refused to accompany me. I at
first determined to go alone: but, after considering that I should
have to leave two camels and a servant with him; that my caravan
would thus be reduced in number; and as no other camels could be
procured, their owners being afraid of the lions, I should not be
able to take enough of water to enable me to stay at the ruins a
sufficient time to make all the drawings that would be necessary; I
gave up the expedition, conceiving that it was of little
importance. My funds, also, are now considerably reduced, and I am
not in a country where I can easily replenish them. The heat is
every day more intolerable. I ought, for private reasons, to have
long since been in Europe; my health has for several days been very
indifferent, from these annoyances, the excessive heat, which for
the first few days of its commencement is always most prejudicial,
and I must confess myself not a little disgusted.</p>

<p>I must be satisfied with having been at Meroe, on the site of
the capital of Ethiopia, which appears to me a satisfactory
termination to my more important labours in the lower part of the
valley of the Nile; and when the reader considers that I have now
been nearly fourteen months above Cairo, leading almost the life of
an Arab, without any of the comforts and charms of the civilised
world, I think he will not reproach me for not extending my travels
to Sennaar and the banks of the White River. Indeed, even had not a
private duty <em>obliged</em> me to return to England, I should
not, I think, have gone very much farther south, as I could spend
my time much more usefully at Thebes; for, except those in the
desert, there are no antiquities beyond this point.</p>

<p>As to the modern capitals of Ethiopia, nothing can be more
miserable than those I have already seen. Sennaar, I am
told,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[117]</span> great,
splendid, and beautiful as the Arabs represent it, is very little
larger, and has not much more the appearance of a capital, than
Shendy, which, as I have said before, cannot be compared to many of
the small towns in Egypt. The poetical minds of the Arabs are fond
of describing in glowing terms the beauty of distant objects; as
the ancients placed the Garden of the Hesperides in the most remote
region; but the descriptions of modern travellers, and the accounts
of many sensible Turks, have satisfied me that Sennaar is not worth
half a day’s journey, and certainly not twenty-two, which would be
necessary to go thither and return.</p>

<p>As to the Bahr el Abiad, or White River, it would be extremely
difficult, if not impossible, to penetrate to any distance on its
banks; and it is now more than ever impracticable to attempt the
discovery of its source. The Governor at Kordofan has his
<em>gazwah</em>, or hunt for slaves, on the banks of that river:
there is, therefore, scarcely a family in that part that has not
lost some relation,—fathers their sons, husbands their wives,
brothers their sisters, children their parents,—and all would
rejoice to avenge their loss on the first white man who should
imprudently venture into their territory. The source of the Nile
could only, I conceive, be discovered by an armed force; and even
that method would present great difficulties. It would require a
large army to subdue the great extent of country through which the
Bahr el Abiad probably passes. Not only the chiefs, but the whole
population, instead of any of them joining the standard of the
invader, or furnishing him with provisions, would resolutely oppose
him. Each man would fight with desperation for the preservation of
his property, family, and liberty. The Shillooks, Numrum, and other
brave and warlike tribes on the White River, are not ignorant of
the wretched lot of their brethren in Cairo. Many a fugitive slave
has carried the intelligence to his tribe of the misery and
hardships they endured after they were taken prisoners;<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_118">[118]</span> their sufferings from the
scanty allowance of water in the desert; the numbers who perished
from fatigue, heat, and thirst; their painful journey on foot,
bound in the most cruel manner; their wretched food; their
ignominious exposure for sale in the Cairo market; and, perhaps,
the cruelty of their taskmasters. These are injuries, I think,
sufficient to sharpen their sabres, and inflame their hatred and
thirst for revenge, on all Mahometans and white men. The traveller
being French or English would be of no avail. They distinguish but
two races, Pagan and Mahometan, and two colours, black and white,
their friends and enemies.</p>

<p>As to the source of the Bahr el Abiad, and the situation of the
Mountains of the Moon, as the Arabs of this neighbourhood have
never been there, or seen any person who has visited either the one
or the other, their suppositions are not worth more, if so much, as
the conjectures of any intelligent man in London. I think it more
candid to confess that these subjects are still involved in a
mystery, which the armies of the Pasha may possibly one day clear
up; yet he can never subdue that country with the facility with
which he made himself master of the valley of the Nile: the
difference of creed, and the deep-rooted hatred against him which
prevails there, would oblige him almost to exterminate the whole
population before he could enjoy a peaceable possession of the
territory. If his ambitious views are diverted by European
interference from another track with his immense resources, large
and disciplined army, and the great superiority derived from
fire-arms and artillery, he might penetrate even to the source of
the White River, and solve that problem which has perplexed the
literary men of every age. No private individual would be so rash
as to attempt this discovery. Were there any possibility of
success, for the hope of immortality, men could be found to
encounter fearlessly the heat and fatigue, and other ordinary
dangers of the journey; but no one would be so<span class="pagenum"
id="Page_119">[119]</span> foolish as to expose himself to the
certain death which would be the result of any attempt made at this
period.</p>

<p>This discovery would have been more easily accomplished before
the Pasha’s conquest; before the war of colour, if I may so
describe it, commenced: but there does not seem to have been any
recent intercourse between the inhabitants of the kingdom of Shendy
and the tribes on the banks of the White River. If any credit can
be given to the accounts of the Arabs, there are cannibals not very
far up its stream. I was told that twenty days above its junction
with the Bahr el Azruk, there is a tribe of Arabs mixed with the
Pagans. I can scarcely believe this latter statement, otherwise it
would present a somewhat less difficult method of penetrating to a
certain distance. I have been assured by several Arab merchants,
and also Turks, that the water of the river is less sweet than that
of the Azruk, that the caravans stationed on what they call the
Island, between the two rivers, universally prefer the water of the
latter. The Egyptians, therefore, are indebted to the Azruk for the
singular sweetness of the waters of the Nile. The Arab’s invariable
description of the Bahr el Abiad is, that it has waves like the Red
Sea, but the current is not powerful like that of the Blue River;
that a boat would sail rapidly up, on account of the prevailing
northerly winds, but it would be more difficult to descend. It is
not improbable that the reason of the superior rapidity of the Blue
River is its greater proximity to its source in the mountains,
whilst the Bahr el Abiad may pass through immense districts, where
the surface is more level and uniform.</p>

<p>Of the inundation of the Nile I will speak hereafter; only
remarking at present, that during the whole of this journey I have
not met one sensible Arab, who was ignorant that the rains in
Ethiopia were followed by the rise of the river, and that,
according to the wetness of the season, the inundation was more or
less beneficial. I do not mean to say that they are acquainted with
the real causes of those rains,—the rarefying of the air
by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[120]</span> the sun in his
approach towards the tropic, and the consequent rush of vapour from
the neighbouring seas; but the circumstance of the peasants here
all being aware of the rain as the season of the inundation,
excites my surprise how the ancients, particularly as many of them
visited Meroe, could be so ill acquainted with, or, indeed, have
the slightest doubt of, the true cause. The flourishing state of
the country at that period, and the probable extent of its
commerce, renders this still more singular. If they had not been
actual witnesses to the tropical rains, (and, according to Pliny,
many were,) they must have heard of them, over and over again, from
authentic sources. The most uneducated peasant in Europe, were he
to see the rain fall in torrents for a long period, the little
rivulets running into a river in his vicinity, and yet not be aware
why the latter was swollen, would be considered to display a
tenfold degree of stupidity. It can only be accounted for by their
preferring to ornament their works with ingenious speculations
rather than admit an explanation which they could not account
for.<a id="FNanchor_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22" class=
"fnanchor">[22]</a> We arrived at Shendy this evening at nine.</p>

<p><em>Metammah.—March</em> 12. This morning the katshef at Shendy,
with his servants and dependants, went through the Mameluke
exercise for our amusement. Six entered the list on each side.
Their lances were stalks of the palm tree, about four or five feet
long. The combatants were about 300 or 400 yards apart<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_121">[121]</span> at the commencement, but when
the contest became more animated, not more than 100. Each one
sallied out when he liked, armed with a single lance, and, when
there was no opponent in the field, rode near the opposite party,
and generally, when at the distance of from twenty to thirty feet,
flung his lance at his adversaries within their limits, to excite
them to come forth; otherwise, when the field was full, at those
who were galloping back from pursuing their adversaries. The
attacked party trusted to the speed of the horse to save him from
the lance of the one who followed him, who, having in his turn
flung his lance, was rode after by another of the opposite party,
and thus the ball was spiritedly kept up. The requisites for these
manœuvres are, perfect management of his horse, dexterity in
avoiding his adversary’s lance, and catching it, if possible, with
his hand, which enables him to turn again upon the assailant. They
are only, as I have said, allowed to go out with one lance, and
when they have thrown it, are dependent on their agility, and the
swiftness of their horses, to save themselves from their pursuers;
but the qualities most admired, and most necessary, are strength
and dexterity in throwing the lance, and fearless indifference to
blows. Each well-directed and successful aim was hailed with a
shout of admiration, and those who seemed to fear the contest were
evidently despised. The exercise is fine, but the wounds received
are sometimes not slight. There is no ostensible respect of
persons. The servant throws his lance at his master, and the master
at the servant; yet, somehow, the katshef escaped always amid the
numbers of lances which were showered around him: a clever courtier
knows how to direct his aim. Between the servants the game
sometimes became serious, and blows were exchanged with the
appearance of real enmity.</p>

<p>I saw this morning a number of mats and baskets made by the
women, some of which are very beautiful. They make
here,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[122]</span> also, very
neat sandals, almost exactly resembling those of the ancients. At
noon I crossed to Metammah. I found that the katshef was absent.
The soldier he had deputed to perform the duties of his office
promised me eight camels, to cross the desert of Bahiouda to
Meroueh.</p>

<hr class="chap">

<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[123]</span><a id=
"c10"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2>

<p class="csum">METAMMAH — DIFFICULTY OF FINDING CAMELS TO CROSS
THE BAHIOUDA DESERT. — WRETCHED STATE OF THE PEASANTS WHEN ATTACKED
BY ILLNESS. — INTERMITTENT FEVERS. — COSTUMES OF METAMMAH. — WOMEN
OF HIGH RANK. — THEIR LONG NAILS, MANNER OF INCREASING THEIR
LENGTH. — BAHIOUDA DESERT. — WELLS AT ABOULAY. — REFLECTIONS ON THE
DESERT LIFE. — SHAGEEA TRIBE. — WELLS CALLED GAGDOOL. — SIGNOR B.
UNWELL. — HASSANYEH TRIBE. — ANIMALS OF THE DESERT. — GREYHOUND
DOG. — WELL OF MAGAGA. — DANGEROUS ILLNESS OF SIGNOR B. — WELL OF
DELICIOUS WATER CALLED HALESS. — BEAUTY OF THE SCENERY. — SHEPHERD
BOYS. — CHARACTER OF THE ROCKS. — WELLS OF GOOD WATER CALLED HANNEK
AND PRASOLI. — THE MANNER THE SHAGEEA SALUTE. — COPTIC CHRISTIAN
CHURCH. — ARRIVAL AT THE TOWN OF MEROUEH. — HIEROGLYPHICS ON A SLAB
IN THE CASTLE.</p>

<p class="nind"><em><span class="sc">Metammah</span>.—March</em>
13. A sufficient number of good camels, or rather dromedaries,
being difficult to find, I was detained the whole of the day near
this miserable little town, where there is nothing to be seen. The
country, even at this season, is not free from malaria. Several
peasants suffering from intermittent fever applied to me for
relief. Some I saw wretchedly ill, lying on their angoureebs,
without any advice, or, apparently, any person to attend them, left
to live or die according to the violence of the attack or the
strength of their constitutions. When the rains extend to this
place, which is not always the case, fevers are very prevalent:
dysentery also is very common: I have had an attack myself, and two
of my servants suffered severely from it. I used successfully a
powerful dose of opium and calomel. To my servant, who was very
ill, I gave six grains of calomel and one of opium at a time.</p>

<p>Once a week, in each of these small towns and villages, there is
a bazaar; a curious scene, on account of the different costumes of
the Arabs who resort to them from the country. At Metammah many of
the inhabitants have adopted the fashion of their
conquerors,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[124]</span> and
shaved their heads. The costumes of some of the women of high rank
are said to be very beautiful, but it is difficult to obtain a
sight of them; and I must confess I have not enjoyed that good
fortune. My dragoman, however, an impudent fellow, contrived, upon
some pretext, to enter the harem of the present melek of Shendy,
whose wife is daughter of the celebrated Nimr, who murdered Ismael
Pasha. Her husband has gone to the war with Hourshid Bey. The
intruder found this queen, as he called her, in a large room
reposing in a most dignified manner on a beautiful angoureeb,
covered with the fine mats of the country. She was reclining at
full length; her head was supported by a wooden pillow of about the
width of a hoop, and of a semicircular form to admit the head, and
sustained by a column 4 to 6 inches high with a broad flat base,
<img src='images/sym1.jpg' alt='[Symbol]' class="iwsym">. They are
almost exactly similar to those often found in the ancient tombs of
the Egyptians, and which, notwithstanding their apparent
discomfort, are now very generally used in every part of Upper
Nubia. The ladies of Shendy, however, value them highly, since,
being so narrow, they do not disarrange their hair; a serious
consideration, if it be true, as I am informed, that the
<em>coiffure</em> of the Shendyan beauties requires nine hours’
work to be quite <em>comme il faut</em>. This lady’s hair was very
curiously dressed, beautifully plaited, and bushy at each side,
projecting behind and flat above the forehead. On this flat part
were two plates of gold, one above the other, and in the centre of
her forehead was a large gold ring. She wore two handsome gold
earrings, and bracelets of massive gold on her arms, and the same
above her ankles. She wore the cotton dress of the country, but
finer than usual, and over her neck was a beautiful shawl of
Souakim with a broad silk border. He represented her features as
being extremely small and delicate; her eyes very large and fine,
and her complexion much fairer than that of the women of the
country in general. He described her as the most beautiful woman he
had seen since leaving Cairo, and doubted if, in his<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_125">[125]</span> life, he had observed any one
superior to her. She looked, he said, like a queen.</p>

<p>In a circle, squatted on the ground beneath, were about twenty
female slaves, some very beautiful, busily employed in pounding and
preparing spices for the ointment with which they perfume their
persons and soften their skins. Her nails were extremely long; a
decided indication, in this country, of high rank, as proving that
the person never condescends to employ her fingers in any work. To
promote their growth, they are held over small fires of cedar wood.
This is an ancient custom, and Cailliaud mentions having observed,
at Naga, a representation of a queen with long nails; and it still
prevails among the Chinese of the highest rank. This wife, or
queen, of the melek, possesses a large fortune, said to amount to
50,000<em>l.</em> sterling; an enormous amount for a country like
this. She increases it daily by commerce, keeping constantly in her
employ Arab merchants, who trade in caravans on her account to
Abyssinia, Kordofan, Sennaar, and Cairo. Their chief traffic now is
in slaves. Two of her merchants were in the room when my dragoman
entered. She eyed him at first fiercely and haughtily, and asked
him whether he was one of the Christians just arrived, and how he
dared to enter there? Being a clever insinuating fellow, with the
advantage of being a Mahometan, he soon ingratiated himself into
her favour, and had some dinner ordered for him. As she was the
first queen he had ever seen, and the daughter of the celebrated
Nimr, he examined her very attentively. The reader will perhaps be
dissatisfied with a description thus given upon hearsay; but I
should state that, from numerous enquiries, I have found it
perfectly applicable to the great ladies in this country; and my
dragoman, although an Arab, is the most intelligent clever servant
I have met with any where. The account of this great lady may
remind the reader of Bruce’s Sittina.</p>

<p><em>March</em> 14. We started this morning at noon; and now,
thank Heaven, my face is toward the north, and every day will bring
me<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[126]</span> nearer England.
I have still a journey of nearly 1600 miles before I even reach
Alexandria, with deserts to pass and hardships to undergo.<a id=
"FNanchor_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a>
We have suffered already very severely from heat and fatigue. For
some time past the thermometer, between eleven and four, has been
96° to 100° in the shade; on one day as high as 104°, and another,
110°. The wind blows almost every day very strong from the north;
but in the interior deserts of Africa, the atmosphere soon becomes
so heated, by the scorching sun, that the wind which, in other
regions, braces and invigorates man, is felt as hot and oppressive.
It is refreshing at night, and near the river; but in the desert,
for a great part of the day, almost insupportable. Our umbrellas,
with which we sheltered ourselves from the sun, have been all
broken by the wind, and others we had constructed met to-day a
similar fate; but we protect ourselves with our sheets as well as
we can. There is no apparent ascent from the Nile into the desert.
After five hours’ journey we encamped for the night. The desert is
slightly covered with sand, but not so much as to impede the
camels: in other respects it almost resembles a park, covered, to a
great extent, with trees and herbage, though the latter has rather
a burnt appearance. The trees are chiefly acacias, bearing full
yellow flowers, and in their forms sometimes resembling small oaks,
others the tops of the Italian pine trees.</p>

<p><em>March</em> 16. We have been ten hours <em>en route</em> this
day. As we advanced into the desert, I observed not quite so many
trees, and also less herbage. After five hours’ journey—that is,
ten after leaving the Nile—we arrived at a spot called Aboulay,
where numerous wells occur. The Arabs filled their water-skins;
and, had I not been well provided from the Nile, I should have
drunk of it without hesitation, as it seemed tolerably sweet and
wholesome.</p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[127]</span>On this journey
I could not escape from some serious and even painful reflections.
However the traveller may be fascinated with this kind of
life,—free from the restraints and passions of the world; living in
the patriarchal style; mounted on his dromedary; sleeping under a
tent, and sometimes without one; covered with no other canopy than
the blue sky;—exquisite as may be the pleasure of exploring
unfrequented lands, treading unbeaten paths, and leading his
caravan over these terrible wildernesses; still, there are
thoughts, not to be resisted, which crowd upon the mind, and
unnerve even the strongest. This is not the land of our birth; we
are strangers to the customs, manners, language, and religion of
the people: their hospitality and civility are merely the effort of
their benevolence, and the performance of a duty. No tie of
relationship, no chain of affection, no sympathy of ideas, no bond
of union, exists between us. The dissimilarity of our colour, of
the climate and aspect of the country, as compared with ours, is
not more complete than that of our habits and feelings. All that we
love, all that we care for, is separated from us by immense tracts
of desert sands; and we have to pass rivers, seas, and several
thousand miles before we reach the land of our home. I can also
assure my fair countrywomen that it is no trifling deprivation to
see and converse with none but these swarthy savage beauties, from
whose society no man of any refinement can derive the slightest
gratification. My Italian artist, who sings remarkably well,
entertains me sometimes with the favourite airs from Rossini’s and
Bellini’s operas, and he talks to me so much of “la bella Italia,”
that I long to be again there—<em>but on my way to
England</em>.</p>

<p>My camel-drivers, with the exception of two Ababdes, whom I met
and engaged as they had passed the Nubian desert with me, are of
the tribe of the Shageea—fine tall warlike-looking fellows, with
their hair dressed almost like the Ababdes; but the Shageea
generally<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[128]</span> wear
beards and mustachios. Their complexion is decidedly darker than
that of the Ababdes, which is a dark brown; but theirs is a darker
brown, and sometimes approaches almost to a black, but still very
different from the cold colour of the negroes. The Shageea have
occasionally wider nostrils than we should think correct, and
rather thick lips, otherwise their features would resemble exactly
the European. We have seen numbers of gazelles, and several flocks
of sheep, and passed many isolated hills: the sand is firm, and not
fatiguing for the camels. Six inches below the surface is sandstone
rock.</p>

<p><em>March</em> 17. We have been ten hours on the road. Had it
not been for the extreme heat, and my health being indifferent, I
should have enjoyed my journey through this desert; for, although
not picturesque, the abundance of acacias makes it extremely
beautiful. We have passed several isolated hills; and on the sand
yesterday, as well as to-day, I observed many of the round balls of
iron-flint, or iron-glance, sometimes of a red, but generally of
almost a black, colour. A distinguished mineralogist has informed
me that they are common sand, agglutinated by oxide of iron, such
as may be seen on Hampstead Heath, &amp;c., rolled by water. They
are similar to those observed during my first two or three days’
journey in the great Nubian desert.</p>

<p><em>March</em> 18. After four hours’ ride I arrived at a range
of mountains, the crust of which consists of quartz and decomposed
granite; but the basis of most of the rocks in this quarter is
sandstone. At a distance I fancied we were approaching a passage
cut through the mountains; but on arriving it proved a deep recess
in the rock, having the appearance of being worn by a torrent, and
now forming a well, or rather cistern, almost entirely protected
from the rays of the sun by a projecting rock. During the winter,
and when the tropical rains extend so far north, the water is above
five times its present depth, which is only eight feet. It is
now<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[129]</span> green, and
disagreeable to the taste; but, fortunately, my stock of Nile water
is not finished, as I must confess I should not have relished to
quench my thirst, under a burning sun, with this beverage. My
satisfaction was the greater when I observed that my camel-drivers,
when they had filled their water-skins, bathed and washed
themselves in the pool; doubtless the usual custom of the caravans.
We expected to find flocks here, and procure an additional supply
of meat. My artist being extremely unwell, and wishing for soup, I
gave a backsheesh of ten piastres to one of the camel-men, who
mounted an unloaded dromedary, and went out of the road, towards
the west, to a source of water, where he said there were Arabs of
the tribe of the Hassanyeh: he joined us after three hours, having
succeeded in purchasing a goat for five, and an excellent gazelle
for two, piastres. We have seen numerous herds, of five or six
each, of the latter, but have never been able to approach within
shot of them. At a short distance from hence, they tell me that
there are antelopes (Arabic, <em>buggera el Atmoor</em>). It is
singular that, on this side of the river, ferocious animals are
rare. There are some few hyenas, but the panthers and lions seem
confined chiefly to the Island of Meroe.</p>

<p>This reservoir of water, called Gagdool, is out of the direct
road; we went from it due west for a short time, and then resumed
our course towards the north-west. I should have made a drawing of
these rocks, but I was really so unwell that I felt unequal to the
exertion. At noon we reposed for a short time under our tent. There
are abundance of acacias, but they afford little shade; whence the
Arab proverb, “The friendship of man is like the shade of the
acacia.” At Shendy I bought a splendid greyhound dog; perhaps of a
larger species than ours, stronger, and with more bone, but showing
much breeding. I was surprised to find the true race of greyhound
dog in the centre of Africa; but, in fact, there is a
representation of it on the walls of a tomb at Thebes, forming part
of magnificent offerings received from Ethiopia.<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_130">[130]</span> (See <a href="#pl46">Plate
XLVI.</a>) I should have been glad to have brought him to England,
but he died in consequence of the heat, added to his fatigue in
following the camel, and perhaps not having sufficient water,
although I spared him as much as I could out of my own individual
stock<a id="FNanchor_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24" class=
"fnanchor">[24]</a>, in order that I might save him. I placed him
on the back of a camel; but he would not remain.</p>

<p><em>March</em> 19. Nine hours this day. We arrived at eleven at
a well, in a valley at the commencement of a range of granite rocks
of the usual round formation by which they are always known: quartz
nodules were scattered in the valley. The water of this well is the
best we have tasted since we left the Nile, yet not what I should
like to drink. The Arabs say that we shall arrive at a better
to-morrow. The source is called Magaga. We encamped earlier than
usual this evening, my artist being unable to go any farther. Last
night he had a severe attack of bilious fever. Calomel is the best
remedy for that complaint in this climate. I gave him a dose of six
grains, and this morning he was wonderfully better, but the fatigue
and heat of the day have brought on a relapse. He wants spirit to
assist in throwing off the disease, is afraid of dying in the
desert, and thinks it impossible he shall live to see the Nile
again. He fancies that without plenty of sustenance he cannot
exist; and therefore forces his appetite, instead of living
abstemiously, as he ought. I have given him six grains more this
evening, but have found great difficulty in inducing him to take
them, although he is sensible of the benefit he derived from the
others. I am exceedingly anxious about the effect of the medicine,
from the responsibility I feel in having brought him into the
deserts. His reproaches on the subject are harassing, although
unjust; for he was engaged under the condition of making this
journey.</p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[131]</span><em>March</em>
20. My artist was exceedingly ill the early part of last night, but
at last he fell into a profuse perspiration, after which he dropped
asleep, and awoke this morning quite relieved. He allows a certain
merit to the pills, but much more to his having vowed to present
wax candles to the Madonna on his return to Italy: he has made
other promises of the same kind for deliverance from various
dangers. An hour after starting this morning, we arrived at a well
called Haless, situated, like the one we passed yesterday, in a
valley. The water is most delicious, quite equal to that of the
Nile. We emptied all our geerbahs of the water they contained,
which, from the extreme heat, had become black and bad, and filled
them from this delicious fountain. I never enjoyed any luxury so
much as this cold, clear, fresh draught.</p>

<p>We encamped after nine hours’ ride. Although the scenery is not
sufficiently bold to be termed picturesque, it is impossible to
conceive a more beautiful desert; valleys and rocks with mountains,
whose forms are varied, broken, sometimes conical, but never
monotonous. The low grounds are covered with sweet-smelling
acacias. The herbage has certainly, at this season, a very burnt
appearance; but had there been a greensward, instead of these
yellow sands and this long discoloured grass, few spots would be
more lovely than the Desert of Bahiouda.</p>

<p><em>March</em> 21. We rode ten hours to-day. The plains are
rather more extensive, but still beautiful. We met, this morning,
shepherd boys with geerbahs on their arms, containing their
provision of water, and they had a few loaves of dourah bread tied
in their garment. In this way they conduct their flocks to the
pasturages distant from the well, and return when their stock of
provision is consumed. I observed, several times, this morning,
traces of torrents. The mountains in this desert are generally of
grey and pink-coloured granite, often of the description called
syenite; many are of sandstone, hornblende, and
conglomerates;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[132]</span>
while others are of decomposed granite and decomposed felspar. At
eleven o’clock we passed a well of good water called Hennek, now
forty feet deep and proportionally wide. There are no traces of its
being recently excavated, nor any thing to mark it as ancient, but
it is too great an undertaking for the Arabs of the present age to
have accomplished. We are encamped near another source of rain
water, called Prasoli. There are about twenty houses or sheds
scattered around, inhabited by peasants and their flocks. We have
met two caravans of merchants from Dongolah. The manner the Shageea
salute, leaning their right arms over the breasts and shoulders of
each other, has a very dignified and noble appearance, and is quite
in harmony with that frank sincerity and honest affection, which
characterise the Arabs of the desert.</p>

<p><em>March</em> 22. We set out, as usual, at seven, and, at
twelve o’clock of the eighth day from Metammah, arrived again at
the river. A short distance from the Nile, in a wild solitary
situation, we passed some fine ruins of a large Coptic church. It
is built of stone covered with cement. There are several windows,
and naves in the interior. There are also several doors, and over
them the Maltese cross. At the top of the building are remains of
an Egyptian cornice and beading, but the plan of the interior is
evidently that of a church. It was built, probably, of the
materials of a temple, of which the peasants inform me that the
traces were recently visible, but are now entirely buried by the
encroaching sands of the desert. I went to the place where it was
said to have existed, but could find no vestiges of it. We were
detained some time on the south side of the Nile, but, after firing
repeatedly, a boat came over for us.</p>

<p>Immediately on arriving at the town of Meroueh, I paid a visit
to the katshef who has the command of this district. I found him
very anxious to be of service to us; and his assistance was most
useful in enabling me to procure a fresh supply of bread; a thing
difficult to be had in a country where very<span class="pagenum"
id="Page_133">[133]</span> little of any grain except dourah is
either raised or eaten. I was fortunate in obtaining as much rice
as I was in need of from the soldiers, who were very willing to
sell their rations. Our sugar and tea is consumed: the latter, of
course, is not to be procured in such a region as this. In this
village, or rather little capital of the province of Dar Shageea,
and in the country around, we could only find one loaf of sugar,
which was black, and the owner made me pay ten times its value.</p>

<p>We left the camels, which brought us across the desert, on the
other side of the river: we, therefore, cannot go on to Gibel el
Birkel this evening, since no other camels can be found to carry
the luggage. As the distance is more than an hour’s walk, I have
not time to go and return before dark, and am therefore obliged to
restrain my curiosity until to-morrow.</p>

<p>Meroueh is an ill-built miserable place. In the fortress where
the katshef resides, and which formerly belonged to Melek Shoush,
is a pedestal of basalt, on which are two ovals, with names and
titles on them, which I could not copy, on account of the
accumulation of filth that covered them. I had it washed, and
traced sufficient of the hieroglyphics to perceive that the name is
the same as that of an Ethiopian king I afterwards found on the
great temple at Gibel el Birkel. In the court of the same castle is
a fragment of a statue of the same material, the sculpture of which
is good. The coincidence between the modern name of Meroueh and the
ancient capital Meroe is curious. Was this the commencement of the
kingdom of which Meroe was the metropolis?</p>

<hr class="chap">

<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[134]</span><a id=
"c11"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2>

<p class="csum">ANTIQUITIES OF GIBEL EL BIRKEL. — DESCRIPTION AND
DIMENSIONS OF THE MOUNTAIN. — TEMPLE BUILT BY THE TIRHAKA OF THE
BIBLE. — VARIOUS OTHER INTERESTING REMAINS AND TEMPLES. — PYRAMIDS.
— CIRCULAR AND POINTED ARCH INVENTED IN ETHIOPIA.</p>

<p class="nind"><span class="sc">Gibel el Birkel</span> is situated
an hour’s walk, or three miles and a half, to the east of the small
town of Meroueh, and the mountain is 5150 feet distant from the
Nile. It is an insulated hill, situated in a large plain; and below
it, on the south side, are the ruins, also the cultivated land and
the river. The other sides of the mountain are bordered by the
desert, which has, no doubt, made encroachments on what was once
cultivated land. The height of the eminence is about 350 feet. The
exterior is rough, part of it having been worked to furnish
materials for the temples, and more recently large masses have
fallen, and almost entirely buried two temples which were situated
beneath. The hill is of sandstone, of a soft description, which
accounts for the dilapidated state of all the remains; for not only
would the influence of time and the seasons be greater, but the
difficulty would, of course, be less in destroying them. In some
parts, the mountain is nearly perpendicular: the form is very
picturesque, and highly imposing, particularly at a distance.</p>

<p>My general view (<a href="#pl18">Plate XVIII.</a>), drawn by
myself with the camera lucida, will give a correct idea of the site
of the ancient city; but it differs so much from the view Cailliaud
has published, that it will scarcely be recognised as the same
place; and, indeed, nearly all our plans and drawings are equally
dissimilar. I can only state, that neither time nor pains were
spared, either by my artist or myself, to render ours as accurate
as possible. The total<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_135">[135]</span> circumference of the mountain (see <a href=
"#pl17">Plate XVII.</a>) is about 5000 feet, which may be divided
thus:—</p>

<table class="tabw35" id="t135">
<tr>
<th>
</th>
<th>Feet.</th>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">From the temple of Isis or Typhonium to
the temple destroyed by the mountain</td>
<td class="tdr-bot pad-right03">400</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">From the latter to the Grand Temple</td>
<td class="tdr-bot pad-right03">100</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">To the point where the mountain takes a
direction almost to the north, passing the traces of the town,
which extends for 500 feet</td>
<td class="tdr-bot pad-right03">600</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Direction towards the north</td>
<td class="tdr-bot pad-right03">700</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Ditto towards the north-west</td>
<td class="tdr-bot pad-right03">1100</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Ditto towards the south-west</td>
<td class="tdr-bot pad-right03">100</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Ditto nearly south</td>
<td class="tdr-bot pad-right03">2000</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdr-bot pad-right03 bbdb bt">5000</td>
</tr>
</table>

<div class="figcenterplate iw11">
<figure id="pl17">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 17.</p>
<a href="images/pl17_large.jpg"><img src='images/pl17.jpg' alt=
''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>From a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins
Esq<sup>r</sup>. & L. Bandoni.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">GIBEL EL BIRKEL.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The form of the eminence is not very unlike that of the
Acropolis of Athens, but there certainly never was any
fortification on this rock. Some broken pottery and bricks, on the
eastern side, indicate the site of the town. On the opposite, or
western side of the mountain, but more in the desert, are two
groups of pyramids. One consists of nine, the other, still farther
in the desert, of eight. They are surrounded by sand, on the
surface of which great quantities of quartz pebbles are
disseminated.</p>

<p>Besides the two temples, mentioned as having been destroyed by
the falling of a part of the mountain, there are the remains of
eight other edifices, principally temples. The one I first arrived
at, situated at the south-west corner of the mountain, is perhaps
the most interesting of all. (See <a href="#pl19">Plate
XIX.</a>)</p>

<p>I admired exceedingly the beautiful and picturesque form of
Gibel el Birkel; but the ruins in the distance, scattered beneath
the southern side of the mountain, excited to the greatest degree
my curiosity. I felt, indeed, that I was undoubtedly approaching
the site of the capital of a formerly rich and flourishing region.
The situation at once announces it, and the magnificent<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_136">[136]</span> remains bear testimony to its
importance, and, I may truly add, to the taste, knowledge, and
refinement of the ancient inhabitants of this now deserted city.
<a href="#pl20">Plate XX.</a> is a view of the ruins which first
engaged my attention. It shows the remaining fragment of the
propylon, and the manner in which the columns forming the first
court were ornamented. The head of Isis adorns the eastern and
western sides of the columns, fronting the avenue and enclosure,
where they would be seen conspicuously, but the other two sides
have merely the lotus flower; an economy of sculpture never seen in
Egyptian edifices. This drawing also shows the entrance into the
chambers which were excavated out of the rock. <a href=
"#pl19">Plate XIX.</a> is the best point of view that I could fix
upon, and indeed a better could not be desired, as it shows seven
columns, ornamented with the capitals of the head of Athor, which
are all that remain; and it also comprises the only Typhonian
pillar that is now entire in the portico. My drawings will, I
trust, give the reader a full idea of the imposing appearance of
these ruins. I will now enter into a more detailed architectural
description of this temple, of which we have given the plan and
section, Plates <a href="#pl21">XXI.</a> and <a href=
"#pl22">XXII.</a></p>

<p>The length of this temple is 115 feet 6 inches, the breadth (in
the interior) 50 feet 2 inches. The pylon is almost entirely
destroyed, but sufficient is left to prove that its depth was 11
feet 3 inches, and total width 62 feet 6 inches: there are no
remains of the entrance into this portico, but I have restored it
according to the usual form. This pylon leads into a portico 59
feet long and 50 feet 2 inches wide. I know not why Cailliaud and
others have made two rooms of this portico, and a difference in the
diameter of the columns. My artist had sufficient time to make the
plan, which, with the section, were drawn out, as I give them, on
the spot. This was our habitation, and in my examination of the
ruins I did not see any authority to induce me to suppose that
there had been two apartments. All the columns were so easily
traced, that the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">[137]</span>
plan, with the exception of the propylon, may be considered
entire.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw4">
<figure id="pl18">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 18.</p>
<a href="images/pl18.jpg"><img src='images/pl18.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by W. Walton, from a Drawing by
G. A. Hoskins Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">GENERAL VIEW OF GIBEL EL BIRKEL.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>This portico consists of two rows of seven columns each, and two
rows of the same number of square pillars. The latter form the
centre avenue, while the columns are arranged between the pillars
and exterior wall. The centre rows, forming the avenue into the
temple, are ornamented on the side fronting the avenue with figures
of the deformed Pthah, or what is generally called Typhon, above
which is a capital, decorated with representations of the lotus
flower, supporting ovals; between the latter are branches of palm
trees. One of these pillars remains entire, and the traces of the
others are visible. Behind them are circular columns, with the
capitals of the head of Athor, above which is the common
representation of the monolithic temple with the serpent and globe.
On the reverse is the same. The sides are decorated (as I have said
in my description of <a href="#pl20">Plate XX.</a>) with the lotus
flower, instead of the head of Athor, above which are similar
monolithic temples. The sculpture of these heads of Isis is
tolerable (see <a href="#pl19">Plate XIX.</a>), but not so bold as
on the pillars at Naga. The diameter of the columns is 3 feet 6
inches; their total height 17 feet 6 inches, including the bases.
The shaft of the column, consisting of five pieces, measures 9
feet. The head of Athor 3 feet 4 inches, the monolithic temple 4
feet 6 inches. The diameter of the Typhonian pillars is 4 feet 3
inches. The columns with the Athor-headed capital rest on circular
bases, 4 feet in diameter, and 8 inches high; the figures of Typhon
are 12 feet 4 inches high; the total height of the pillar 17 feet.
The height of the legs of this figure is 4 feet 6 inches; the
length of the body from the shoulder to its legs 6 feet; the head
is 3 feet 8 inches long; making in all 14 feet 2 inches. The
difference from the total height of the statue, which is only 12
feet 4 inches, is accounted for by the circumstance of the head of
the monster<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">[138]</span>
reaching over its breast, the shoulders being nearly on a level
with its ears, while its belly hangs down between its legs.</p>

<p>The side walls of the temple seem never to have been above 5
feet 6 inches high, as may be observed in the section. Besides the
wall not being broken, the circumstance of the capitals of the
columns being ornamented, on the sides fronting the wall, with the
heads of Isis, whilst on the north and south sides the architect
did not take the trouble thus to decorate them, proves that, from
the lowness of the wall, such an ornament was there quite
requisite. The circumstance, also, of the sides of the column
towards the centre avenue being in a great measure concealed by the
Typhonian figures, would suggest the idea of this variation from
the general plan, and induce them to erect only a low wall, in
order that the columns with the Athor-headed capital might be
visible. This portico leads into a room excavated out of the rock,
ornamented with two figures of Typhon: the height of these,
including a kind of basket above their heads, and plinths (see
<a href="#pl22">section</a>), is 12 feet 4 inches. The sides of
this room are ornamented with sculpture, representing the king
Tirhaka, and his beautiful and royal bride Amentikatah, making
offerings and libations to the god Amun Ra, Lord of the Rulers,
with the head-dress of a large globe and two feathers; behind whom
is Maut, with a plain helmet on her head. On the opposite side the
king, with the titles, God beneficent, Lord of the World,
Beneficent King, Son of Phre (Pharaoh), is offering vases to the
divinity Io, whose head-dress consists of four plain feathers. She
has the jackal-headed staff in one hand, and in the other the
<em>crux ansatus</em>. Behind this divinity is a representation of
Koht, with the head of a lioness, sustaining a globe. I have copied
the hieroglyphics, as also the dedicatory inscription around the
room.</p>

<p>On the columns of the portico scarcely any hieroglyphics are
legible; those few that are so I have copied. The room
last<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">[139]</span> described
leads into the sanctuary, also excavated out of the rock. It is 22
feet 10 inches long, by 12 feet 8 inches broad, and is ornamented
with sculpture, representing the king making offerings to the
divinities, with the attributes of Amun Ra, Neith, Honsoo, Horus,
Kneph, and Thoth. On the west side of the sanctuary is another
excavated room, 22 feet 10 inches long, and 7 feet 6 inches wide.
This is also ornamented with sculpture, much broken, representing
the king making offerings to Kneph, Thoth, and Horus.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw6">
<figure id="pl19">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 19.</p>
<a href="images/pl19.jpg"><img src='images/pl19.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by C. Hullmandel, from a Drawing
by G. A. Hoskins Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">TEMPLE OF TIRHAKA, GIBEL EL BIRKEL.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>On the east side of the sanctuary are two rooms, the first 17
feet long by 7 feet 7 inches wide. The sculpture represents the
king, with the attributes and titles of Thoth, addressing numerous
divinities seated, all with the same figure of a mummy and a
jackal-headed staff in their hands. Before the first is a pedestal
with a lotus flower upon it. The second room, leading out of the
last I have described, is unfinished, and is only 5 feet long and 7
feet wide. The plan will show that the rooms on each side the
sanctuary have no direct communication with the latter, but lead
out of the first excavated chamber.</p>

<p>This is not only the most curious of all the temples of Gibel el
Birkel, four of the chambers being excavated out of the rock; but
it is also in every respect the most picturesque and interesting,
particularly from being in the best preservation. Though an
excavation, it is apparently not very ancient.<a id=
"FNanchor_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a>
I found no other name upon it than that of Tirhaka, which is found
on the columns of the portico, and also in the interior. This is
the Pharaoh, as will be seen by the <a href="#c19">Historical
Appendix,</a> who assisted Hezekiah in his war against Sennacherib.
In clearing out the stones and rubbish from the sanctuary, to make
it a more<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">[140]</span>
comfortable residence, I made the curious discovery of a gutter, 4
inches deep and 9 inches broad, which crosses the ancient stone
floor. It was probably to receive the blood of the sacrifices.</p>

<p>The sculpture of this temple has not the striking
characteristics of the true Ethiopian style; it more resembles the
Egyptian, and is good, though by no means the best. It is not
improbable that this Ethiopian dynasty, being possessed also of
Egypt, introduced into their own country a taste for the improved
style of Egyptian sculpture. Ages must have elapsed before the
Ethiopian manner could have changed to one so entirely different as
this is.</p>

<p>The next ruin I arrived at is marked D in the <a href=
"#pl17">plan,</a> and is nearly 300 feet distant from the
Typhonium. This space of 300 feet between the two temples is
covered with ruined fragments, doubtless part of the city. The
temple D is not remarkable for architectural beauty. It is much
injured, and the sculpture and hieroglyphics which ornamented the
interior are quite defaced; scarcely a vestige of the latter
remaining to tell that they existed. The plan of the temple may be
distinctly traced. It consisted only of two rooms: the first
ornamented with four columns; the second is the sanctuary, in which
is a plain stone for an altar: the length of the edifice is 85
feet, and the width 65. I saw no reason to suppose that it ever had
an additional portico in front. The defaced state of the
hieroglyphics and sculpture is no proof, in this instance, of its
great antiquity, but may be accounted for by the peculiar softness
of the stone. Close or adjoining to this temple, on the east side,
are some walls and columns of other edifices (E in the <a href=
"#pl17">plan</a>); but, from what remains, little, I think, would
be gained by an excavation, as there are no hieroglyphics.</p>

<p>At 125 feet to the north, that is, behind the last-described
ruins, are the remains of the propylon of a small temple. (See the
foreground of <a href="#pl23">Plate XXIII.</a>, and to the right,
in the distance, of <a href="#pl25">Plate XXV.</a>) Its south side
is ornamented with sculpture, representing<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_141">[141]</span> the king sacrificing prisoners to Amun; a
subject so often repeated on the propylons of Egypt. The other side
of the propylon is also ornamented with sculpture. (See <a href=
"#pl23">Plate XXIII.</a>) It represents a sphinx on a pedestal,
under which is a figure with feathers, and also a pedestal with
some vases. I copied the hieroglyphics which were legible. They
contain the name and titles of a king called Amun Sekon. The upper
part of the oval, on the south side of the propylon, is destroyed;
but on the north, where it is perfect, it seems to be <em>Strength
of Amun Sekon</em>. The similarity of the name Sekon and Sethus,
the first of the nineteenth dynasty, is curious. The hieroglyphics
above the sphinx seem to allude to the offering of an obelisk to
the king, and the inscription above the vases states their number
to be forty. The width of this temple is 60 feet. The
<em>sekos</em> has been destroyed by the falling of part of the
mountain; and another temple, C, close adjoining, has suffered in a
similar manner. Of the latter still slighter traces remain: a few
fragments of columns and part of a wall alone indicate that it ever
existed.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw7">
<figure id="pl20">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 20.</p>
<a href="images/pl20.jpg"><img src='images/pl20.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by C. Hullmandel, from a Drawing
by L. Bandoni Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">TEMPLE BUILT BY TIRHAKA, GIBEL EL BIRKEL.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p><em>Great Temple at Gibel el Birkel.</em>—The temple I next
arrived at, 75 feet from the latter, marked F in the <a href=
"#pl17">plan,</a> had attracted my attention on first arriving at
the mountain. It is now little more than an immense confused pile
of ruins. One column only remains entire; having the capital of the
form of the lotus-bud; denoting its epoch, not only by its style,
but by the name still legible on the slab of the capital. Of the
vast number of columns which ornamented the porticoes, vestibules,
and apartments of this enormous edifice, one only remains; a sad
relic of departed splendour: and this, defaced, tottering, and
almost bent with age, cannot long answer the purpose of
transmitting to posterity the name of its royal founder. It seems
almost by a miracle to have survived the ruin which surrounds it:
and we may congratulate ourselves on this circumstance; for, if it
had fallen a generation earlier, the fragments would have been
swallowed up<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">[142]</span> by the
desert or carried away by the Arabs; and, consequently, the style
of the architecture, and the name of the king who, perhaps, built
this splendid edifice, would have remained wrapped in impenetrable
mystery.</p>

<p>Few temples in Egypt are more extensive or finer than this must
once have been. Sufficient still remains to show its extent and
magnificence: traces of columns, fragments of battle-scenes, and
sacred processions, display its <em>architectural</em> beauty and
the interesting historical events which once adorned its walls. The
cruel hand of time, some convulsion of nature, or, what is most
probable, the barbarous hand of man, have destroyed them, and thus
torn many interesting pages from the history of the world.</p>

<p>A general view of these ruins may be seen in the background of
<a href="#pl23">Plate XXIII.,</a> which gives a correct idea of the
confused mass that now remains; and my view (<a href="#pl25">Plate
XXV.</a>), the most picturesque of any that I have of Gibel el
Birkel, represents in the foreground the solitary column before
mentioned. The separate plan (<a href="#pl24">Plate XXIV.</a>) of
this temple I drew myself, and spared no pains to make it as
correct as possible, excavating for that purpose: and had I been
less acquainted with Egyptian edifices, I could not have succeeded
so well. The exact form of the first propylon of this temple is not
discernible, being quite destroyed, great part of the stones
carried away, and the rest covered almost entirely with the sand
which drifts continually from the desert. The dimensions given to
the propylon in the plan, I obtained by some little excavation, and
by observations of the ground. I do not pretend to say they are
quite correct; but, from the dilapidated state of this part of the
temple, more exact measurements cannot, I think, now be obtained.
To understand fully the following detailed description of this
edifice, the reader must refer to my <a href="#pl24">plan.</a> The
total length of the temple is nearly 500 feet. The first court is
150 feet long, and 135 wide, and was surrounded by a row of
columns, 5 feet<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">[143]</span> 9
inches in diameter, resting on bases 7 feet 6 inches in diameter.
Nine only of these columns are now visible. These, however, are
sufficient to afford a correct idea of what the court has been. I
obtained the intercolumniation by excavation, and have thus
ascertained that this court must have been ornamented with 26
columns, and not more, as it has been represented. There were nine
on each side, including the angles, and four at each end.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw10">
<figure id="pl21">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 21.</p>
<a href="images/pl21.jpg"><img src='images/pl21.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>Drawn by L. Bandoni.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">TEMPLE OF TIRHAKA, GIBEL EL BIRKEL.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>London. Published by Longman, Rees &
C<sup>o</sup>. April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The propylon of the second court is also much injured, but not
to the same extent as the first. On the south-west side, which is
less injured than the other, I found the remains of a staircase
leading to the top of the edifice. The depth of this propylon,
which is 28 feet, I was able to ascertain with more precision than
the other. The second court is 125 feet long and 102 wide. It was
curiously laid out, in a manner which first made me conceive it to
have originally formed two rooms: the first containing four rows of
six columns each, two on each side; and the second room, six rows
of columns of three each: but, on further examination, I found that
there was no mark on the side walls of its having been thus
divided. There is a thin wall, which connects together the seventh
and eighth columns of the centre avenue, that is, the last of the
columns that would have been in the first room, and the first of
the second. This proves that this could never have formed more than
one court; for, had it been divided into separate rooms, these
columns could not have been connected. I conceive it most probable
that, as the architectural part of a temple was generally
constructed before the ornamental, the columns may have been
erected with the intention that it should have been divided into
two rooms; but that afterwards, as the making the whole one
apartment formed no very great architectural defect, though it
certainly was one, this arrangement was adopted, probably in order
to afford a more continued space for the procession which adorned
the walls. Otherwise, rooms leading into the sanctuaries,
ornamented<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">[144]</span> with six
rows of columns, of three each, agree exactly with the general
description of an Egyptian temple.</p>

<p>With some little excavation, I found the traces of all the
columns marked in the plan on the western side, and two on the
other, with a similar connecting wall above mentioned: the width of
the centre avenue was 17 feet. The diameter of the columns is 5
feet 5 inches; and they rest on circular bases. A reference to the
<a href="#pl24">plan</a> will show that the nine columns on each
side, forming the centre avenue, are in an exact line. The six
columns of the second row, on entering, are in a line with the
intercolumniation of the second and third rows, of what I, at
first, erroneously conceived to be a separate portico.</p>

<p>On the west side of the second propylon are the fragments of a
battle-scene, now almost unintelligible. Shattered pieces of a
warhorse, of a king drawing his bow, and of slain combatants,
denote that the historical representation of some celebrated
conflict has been sculptured there. The side walls of this court
seem to have been covered with splendid processions, perhaps equal
to that in the beautiful portico at Medenet Abou; but nothing
remains, except, in one place, a few heads; in another, the hawk
and jackal standards, and several fragments of feet and limbs; and
here and there, one or two hieroglyphics occur. I regret
exceedingly that these sculptures are so completely destroyed, as,
doubtless, they would have made an interesting addition to the
pages of history. The battle, with its horrors—the resistance,
flight, and slaughter—the fiery steed, trampling on the dying—the
portraits and the names of the vanquished people—the warrior’s
triumph and gratitude to the gods, and the processions in
commemoration of his victory—were, no doubt, sculptured on these
walls. This once beautiful temple, and the historical records with
which it was adorned, are now almost entirely destroyed. Sufficient
only is remaining to prove the beauty of the style, and make us
sensible of the loss we have experienced in its
destruction.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[145]</span> The
nature of the event these sculptures told, may be imagined; but as
matter of history it is lost for ever.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw11">
<figure id="pl22">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 22.</p>
<a href="images/pl22_large.jpg"><img src='images/pl22.jpg' alt=
''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>From a Drawing by L. Bandoni.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">TEMPLE <span class="cp2">partly excavated out of the
Rock</span> GIBEL EL BIRKEL.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The next room is 51 feet long and 56 feet wide, and was
ornamented with a row of five columns on each side, the diameter of
which is 4 feet 2 inches, and they rest on circular bases: the
latter are on pedestals. On each side of this room was a gallery,
in one of which there now remain two columns. It seems to me
probable, from the space between the last-described room and the
sanctuary (see <a href="#pl24">Plan</a>), that a gallery crossed
the temple at the end of the third room, out of which there were
probably three outlets. Those at the sides would lead into small
chapels, and the centre one into the sanctuary. As I have no
authority, however, for this supposition, I have not marked it in
my plan; but the reader who has studied the construction of
Egyptian edifices will perceive its probability.</p>

<p>The sanctuary is, fortunately, in better preservation: its width
is about 16 feet, the length uncertain. The wall which enclosed it
could only have been of a certain height, perhaps a few feet, as,
immediately behind it, on each side, are four columns, the diameter
of which is 4 feet. Near the extremity of the sanctuary is a
beautiful granite altar, which I found almost entirely covered with
rubbish, and got it cleared. The device is very elegant,
representing four kings, or, rather, four representations of the
same king, Tirhaka, supporting the Egyptian entablature; and the
base of the altar is also tastefully ornamented. Between the
figures are four ovals: two containing the phonetic name of
Tirhaka, accompanied with the titles of Son of Phre, or Pharaoh,
the Sun, always living. The other two ovals contain the prænomen of
the king Sun, very beneficent; above which is the title King, and
below it the hieroglyphics signifying eternal life, or always
living. There is a line of hieroglyphics round the figures,
containing a dedication of the buildings to his father Amun Ra,
&amp;c. On the east side is a subject, not uncommon in Egypt, of
the two divinities<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[146]</span>
of the Nile, supporting with cords a pedestal, over which is the
name of the king. I copied the hieroglyphics of this tablet. On the
west side of the altar is a subject exactly similar to the east,
but very much defaced and broken.<a id="FNanchor_26"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> Behind the sanctuary is a
room or inner sanctuary, 37 feet long by 21 feet 6 inches wide. A
door leads out of it, on the western side, into two small rooms. To
the west of the altar, before described, is a much larger one of
basalt, 8 feet 6 inches square. There are no figures on this altar,
but some hieroglyphics, all of which I have copied: they contain
the name and titles of King Pepi, or, as Rossellini, perhaps more
correctly, calls him, Pionchei. The name of this king I found also
on the walls; but, on the capital of the column which is still
remaining there is an oval almost resembling the prænomen of
Amunneith, or, according to Mr. Wilkinson, Amun m gori III. If it
be the same, I must candidly state that this is very probably an
Egyptian, and not an Ethiopian, edifice; for the name on the
columns is generally that of the builder of the temple. There are
other rooms (as will be seen by my <a href="#pl24">plan</a>), which
I have not attempted to describe, being almost quite
unintelligible.</p>

<p>The appearance of this temple, at a distance, is very
picturesque; but there is little in the detail to interest the
traveller; its architectural ornaments and sculpture being entirely
destroyed, except the one column already mentioned, and it, too, is
considerably injured, and off the perpendicular. To the architect,
this temple is interesting, as its plan can almost be fully traced.
The mere painter, seeking only the picturesque, would find few
advantageous points of view. But to me these ruins were deeply
interesting, since, accustomed as I am to Egyptian edifices, I
found sufficient, even in the little that remains, to understand
perfectly what it has been. I easily restored, in my conception,
the lofty propylons, the splendid courts, surrounded with the most
chaste forms of Egyptian columns; the porticoes, sanctuaries,
statues, and avenues of sphinxes;—every part enriched by the art of
the painter and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[147]</span>
sculptor;—the walls and propylons covered with the representations
of mythological mysteries, military exploits, and animated
battle-scenes, which form the <em>chefs d’œuvre</em> of Egyptian
art. I could trace, also, the portraits of the heroes,
hieroglyphical tablets, containing the history of the scenes, and
displaying the king’s piety and munificence in his offerings to the
gods. Thus, I restored the temple in my imagination; and, indeed,
there was good authority for all that I have enumerated. Were I to
refer to a period still more remote, and, filling up the vague, and
not sufficiently explicit authority of the historians, describe the
bronze, gold, silver, ivory, ebony, and precious stones, with which
it was, perhaps, adorned; the Oriental magnificence which was most
probably displayed; the mysterious ceremonies of the most
mysterious of religions; the sacrifices and burnt-offerings; the
deceiving oracles, the crafty priesthood, and the ignorant
multitude gazing, with superstitious awe, at their imposing
functions,—I might then be accused of rambling into the regions of
fancy; for, unfortunately, there are no sufficient records yet to
enter into this subject: but if the study of hieroglyphics is still
continued, the veil of Isis may, perhaps, be raised. The Arabs have
carried away a great part of the materials of this temple; and, in
a short time, the little that is remaining of this, the
<em>Selinunte</em> of Ethiopian edifices, will be entirely buried
by the sand which is daily drifted in upon it from the desert.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw7">
<figure id="pl23">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 23.</p>
<a href="images/pl23.jpg"><img src='images/pl23.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by C. Hullmandel, from a Drawing
by G. A. Hoskins Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">GIBEL EL BIRKEL.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p><em>Other Ruins at Gibel el Birkel.</em>—Twenty yards to the
west of the Typhonium, marked in the plan, are the remains of
another small temple, excavated in the rock. The first court was
ornamented with columns, and on the walls I could distinguish
traces of sculpture, but now too much defaced to be legible.
Besides the temples already mentioned, situated under the mountain,
there are the traces of another, 200 feet from the great propylon
of the large temple; that is, about 700 feet from the mountain,
towards the river. A fragment of a wall, 6 feet by 3 feet, is all
that now remains: 300 feet beyond the latter is a single column,
with a lotus-flower<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">[148]</span>
capital. From this column to the river are 4100 feet. The mountain
is, therefore, 5100 feet distant from the Nile.</p>

<p>To the north of the great temple are the ruins of buildings,
chiefly of brick, which seem to have formed part of the city, but
they are of no very great extent. Here are scattered numerous
pieces of pottery, and fragments of the same description of bread
stamps which are found at Thebes, but these are without
hieroglyphic inscriptions. To the east of the great temple, in the
plain, are columns and traces of other temples, but now almost
entirely buried by the sand.</p>

<p>I have described all the temples now existing at Gibel el
Birkel, and mentioned the remains and traces of nine, and will now
treat of the monumental decorations of its interesting Necropolis.
The magnificence, power, and piety of the monarchs of Ethiopia are
displayed in the public works erected in honour of the gods. In
this beautiful cemetery, we have monuments either of the gratitude
and attachment of their subjects, or, more probably, of their own
ostentation. The kings of Egypt are supposed, for many reasons,
which I will mention at another opportunity, to have had their
tombs constructed long before their decease; and this instructive
memorial of the transient nature of their earthly greatness was
worthy of the wisdom and philosophy of so great a nation. The
Ethiopians probably had the same custom; and considering, as
Diodorus says of the Egyptians, their palaces only as inns where
they tarried for a day, they took care to have a more suitable
habitation provided for that state, in which they believed that
they were to rest for ages.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw12">
<figure id="pl24">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 24.</p>
<a href="images/pl24.jpg"><img src='images/pl24.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>Drawn by L. Bandoni.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">GREAT TEMPLE, GIBEL EL BIRKEL.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>London. Published by Longman, Rees &
C<sup>o</sup>. April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The pyramids are on the western side of the mountain. The first
group, of two, is 700 feet north-west of the Typhonium, the temple
I described as excavated in the rock. (See the <a href=
"#pl24">General Plan</a> and <a href="#i10">vignette.</a><a id=
"FNanchor_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a>)
The first, A, is 30 feet square;<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_149">[149]</span> 40 feet to the west of this, is the other,
B, which is only 23 feet square. The pyramid C, in the plan, is 235
feet distant from the latter, and measures 30 feet by 26: twenty
feet farther to the west is pyramid D, which is 27 feet square. The
one marked E, in the plan above, adjoining the latter, is 36 feet
square; and F, partly behind this, is of the same size. Sixteen
feet to the north of F, and north-west of the pyramids C, D, E, is
the largest one at Gibel el Birkel, which is 88 feet square: the
angle of this is more obtuse than that of any of the other pyramids
at Gibel el Birkel. The ruined state of this large pyramid, and
also of the others already described, will be seen in the distance
in <a href="#pl27">Plate XXVII.</a> One hundred and forty-five feet
to the north of this large pyramid is a small one, H, which is only
25 feet square. The angle of this is much more acute, the height
being considerably more than the diameter at the base. It is
scarcely at all injured: the<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_150">[150]</span> apex of the pyramids at this place, like
those in the Isle of Meroe, was never pointed. A flat space was
always left at the top for a statue, perhaps, or some other
ornament. One hundred and twenty-four feet to the west of the
latter is another, I, 23 feet square. This is very much ruined,
particularly on one side, but there are the remains of a portico
before the south-east side. The other eight pyramids, of which I
have given the dimensions, were without this ornament: at all
events, there are no traces now remaining, that induced me to
suppose that any of them had porches in front. The present state of
the pyramids above described may be observed in the distance of
<a href="#pl27">Plate XXVII.</a><a id="FNanchor_28"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a></p>

<div class="figcenter iw15">
<figure id="i10"><a href="images/i10.jpg"><img src='images/i10.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">PLAN OF THE PYRAMIDS OF GIBEL EL BIRKEL.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>About 600 feet to the north-west is a fine group of eight other
pyramids, situated on an eminence, which adds greatly to their
effect, and gives them, at a distance, a still more imposing
appearance. They extend for 550 feet from east to west; five of
them have porticoes, or porches, the direction of which is about
south-east, but rarely exactly the same. (See <a href=
"#i11">Plan.</a>) <a href="#pl26">Plate XXVI.</a> is a general view
of these pyramids, and the <a href="#i11">vignette</a> represents
one in detail. These being accurate camera-lucida drawings, and
every stone correct, the reader will be able to judge of the neat
construction of some of these edifices, the regularity in the size
of the stones (see <a href="#pl26">Plate XXVI.</a>), and the manner
in which they are joined together, without cement. <a href=
"#pl27">Plate XXVII.</a> is a view of a group of these pyramids,
which also shows their construction; and in the distance is seen
the mountain and the other group of pyramids.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw7">
<figure id="pl25">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 25.</p>
<a href="images/pl25.jpg"><img src='images/pl25.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by W. P. Sherlock from a Drawing
by G. A. Hoskins Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">GREAT TEMPLE, GIBEL EL BIRKEL.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The height of these monuments varies from 35 to 60 feet. They
consist, according to their height, of from 30 to 60 steps each,
receding about 6 inches. They, therefore, may be ascended, but with
difficulty. They have smooth borders at the angles,
like<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">[151]</span> some of the
pyramids at Meroe. The first, marked K in the <a href=
"#i10">plan,</a> p. 149., 600 feet distant from the mountain, is
about 65 feet square. It seems to have had no portico, but it is
quite in ruins; it stood upon a stone basement. Thirty-six feet to
the west of the latter is the pyramid L. This is 33 feet square, a
mass of ruins, and no traces of the portico to be seen. This
pyramid is the first to the right in <a href="#pl26">Plate
XXVI.;</a> and although rather indistinct, from being placed in the
distance, its dilapidated state may still be observed. Ninety-five
feet to the west of this is M, which is 38 feet square. This has a
portico before it: the summit of it is visible in <a href=
"#pl26">Plate XXVI.</a> On the hard cement with which the interior
of this portico is covered, I observed some remains of painting,
rather indifferently executed. Fifteen feet to the south, and in
the view almost covering the last, is pyramid N. This is 44 feet
square and 51 feet high, and has a portico before it.
Unfortunately, very few figures were distinguishable; but
sufficient to prove the identity of the style, which is decidedly
Ethiopian. As a further<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_152">[152]</span> confirmation of this fact, there is an
inscription in Ethiopic characters. The masonry of this pyramid is
very well executed. This pyramid is the first that may be remarked
as entire in <a href="#pl26">Plate XXVI.</a></p>

<div class="figcenter iw14">
<figure id="i11"><a href="images/i11.jpg"><img src='images/i11.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">PYRAMIDS OF GIBEL EL BIRKEL.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>There are porticoes, as I have said, before five of this group
of eight pyramids, almost similar to those before the pyramids of
Meroe. Some of these are ornamented with sculpture; but,
unfortunately, destitute of hieroglyphics, which never appear to
have been inserted upon them. I copied out of the pyramid N, the
most beautiful specimen of sculpture that now remains. (See
<a href="#pl29">Plate XXIX.</a>) The style may easily be perceived
to be Ethiopian, from the roundness of the arms, and the
proportions being generally more bulky than those of the Egyptians.
This style differs so widely from that remaining in the temple
built by Tirhaka, that many ages must certainly have elapsed before
such an important change could have taken place. The subject which
I have copied is not particularly interesting, being merely a
presentation of offerings, but there is a variety and elegance in
the groups, seldom surpassed in Egyptian productions. The offerings
consist chiefly of branches of palm trees, goats, cattle, &amp;c.,
and libations. In the highest row, Osiris is represented seated on
his throne, as judge of Amenti, and the divinities Anubis and
Horus, are also in the same line. The divinity with the globe and
horns, in the second row, is probably Isis; and the last in the
second row is a figure of Typhon.</p>

<p>A personage larger than the others is holding incense on the
same elegant description of tray, having the form of a hand and
arm, which we see in Egypt. He is presenting it to the king, or
occupant of the tomb, who is represented seated under a canopy, on
a lion-shaped chair or throne, which differs, in a very slight
degree, from that we so often see in the sculptures of Egypt. The
dress of the king is different from the Egyptian. His necklace is
curious: he has in one hand a large and strong<span class="pagenum"
id="Page_153">[153]</span> but beautifully-formed bow, and in the
other an arrow and a branch of the palm tree<a id=
"FNanchor_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a>:
the goddess of truth, with outstretched wings, is immediately
behind his throne. The traces of colour which still remain on this
sculpture I marked on my original drawing.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw6">
<figure id="pl26">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 26.</p>
<a href="images/pl26.jpg"><img src='images/pl26.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by W. P. Sherlock from a Drawing
by G. A. Hoskins Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">PYRAMIDS OF GIBEL EL BIRKEL.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>On the other side of the portico, opposite to this sculpture, is
another subject, representing about 100 figures, rather curiously
grouped; also some large figures exactly similar to those above
described.</p>

<p>In the other porticoes no sculpture is perceptible, except some
fragments similar to the large figures in this plate.</p>

<p>At the end of some of the porticoes appear traces of the funeral
boats, similar to the one I described at Meroe. Notwithstanding
some differences, they appear to have the same signification as
those over the tombs of the kings. This circumstance, and the
representation of the goddess of truth, Osiris, the president of
Amenti, and the assistant divinities, Anubis, Thoth, and Horus, are
proofs that these were indubitably tombs.</p>

<p>These pyramids seem to have been the object of some learned
curiosity or avarice. Deceived by the false doors beneath the boats
of the sun at the end of the porticoes, persons have endeavoured,
by blasting the stones, to discover some inner chambers, and set at
rest for ever the question how, and for what purpose, they were
constructed. The rude force of barbarians, perhaps of Arabs,
animated, probably, by the hope of discovering treasure beneath,
seems to have been exercised in utterly destroying others.</p>

<p>Judging from the pyramids which are almost entirely ruined, and
from those that have been partly broken down, I do not conceive
that there is any chamber in the interior, but think it more
probable that the body was deposited in a small well, above
which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">[154]</span> the pyramid
was afterwards erected. Yet Diodorus says that the Ethiopians
differed from other nations in the honours which they rendered to
their dead. “Some,” says he, “throw the bodies into the river,
believing that to be the most honourable sepulture which they can
give. Others keep them in their houses, shut up in niches of
alabaster, thinking it advantageous for a child to have ever before
his eyes the image of his father; and those who wished to preserve
the memory of their predecessors enclosed their bodies in a coffin
of baked earth, and interred them in the neighbourhood of the
temples.” The reader will have perceived, from these passages of
Diodorus, that it is not impossible that these porticoes may have
been used to contain the coffins; thus enabling the friends or
children to visit them, at the same time protecting them, to a
certain degree, from the hand of violence and the inclemency of the
seasons. The mummies in the Roman tombs in the Necropolis, in the
Oasis Magna, were in wells; and the Egyptians usually, but not
invariably, interred their dead in those receptacles. Many of the
pyramids have no porticoes; therefore, in those instances, the body
must be underneath, probably in a well; but the construction of
these porticoes may have had its origin in the piety and affection
of individuals wishing to have the bodies of their relations
preserved in an accessible place, where, at certain seasons, they
could visit their remains, recall past scenes, indulge their grief
in bewailing their loss, and have ever before their eyes a memorial
of the brief sojourn of man in this valley of tears.</p>

<p>The pyramid marked O in the <a href="#i10">plan</a> is thirty
feet distant to the west of N. This is 53 feet square, and the
height 58 feet. This pyramid is the second in <a href="#pl26">Plate
XXVI.,</a> and the B of <a href="#pl28">Plate XXVIII.</a> It will
be observed, in the view, that the upper part is very dilapidated;
the portico is very much injured; and, in consequence of the broken
state of the ground, it does not appear in my view. The sculpture
which it contains is of little importance.<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_155">[155]</span> A figure offering incense to the king, with
the head-dress of a globe, long feathers, and short horns. There is
also a representation of the funeral boat.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw7">
<figure id="pl27">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 27.</p>
<a href="images/pl27.jpg"><img src='images/pl27.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by W. P. Sherlock, from a Drawing
by G. A. Hoskins Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">PYRAMIDS AT GIBEL EL BIRKEL.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The next (P, in the <a href="#i10">plan</a>) is 35 feet square.
This is the third, from the left, in <a href="#pl12">Plate
XII.,</a> and is one of the most perfect. The height is 48 feet,
and the interior width of the portico is 6 feet 6 inches. This
portico is arched. There seems to have been some ornament (perhaps
an inscription) attached to many of the façades of the pyramids;
for near the summits are circular holes, in which, probably, rivets
were inserted. Mr. Waddington found a piece of granite in one. Near
the summit of this there are three of these holes.</p>

<p>Q is 36 feet square. There are no traces of its ever having had
any portico. This is the second, from the left, in <a href=
"#pl26">Plate XXVI.</a> The summit is very much injured.</p>

<p>Pyramid R is the first to the left. In the <a href=
"#i10">vignette,</a> page 148., and Plates <a href=
"#pl26">XXVI.</a> and <a href="#pl27">XXVII.,</a> it will be
observed that it is almost perfect, but that the roof of the
portico has partly fallen in. This pyramid is also represented as
restored in <a href="#pl28">Plate XXVIII.</a> An examination of
this plate will afford to the reader a good idea of the beauty of
the architectural forms of these pyramids. A, which corresponds
with R in the <a href="#i10">plan,</a> is 41 feet in diameter, and
the height is 46 feet. The angles of these pyramids being so much
more acute than those of Geezah, adds greatly to the elegance of
their architectural form. The small ornament at the angles is
pretty, and enhances very much the effect. The façade of the
portico is also pretty, but, as will be seen by the plates, has
quite a different form from the façades of the porticoes of the
pyramids of Meroe. At the latter place the doorway is between two
towers, which, although on a small scale, are almost similar in
design to those of the great propylons of Egypt. These, as will be
seen by the plate, have more the appearance of small<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_156">[156]</span> temples. The façade is
narrower at the top than at the bottom, the total width of the
latter being 20 feet, and at the top 17 feet 6 inches. The square
band and the cornice give it more the appearance of a small temple.
The architrave over the door is ornamented with the globe and
serpents. This pyramid is also arched.</p>

<p>In describing the pyramids of Meroe, I mentioned that the arch I
there found was a segment of a circle; but here it is very
important to observe that there are not only specimens of that, but
also one of the pointed arch. The latter, consisting of six stones,
is accurately drawn in the <a href="#pl28">section.</a> The stones
are slightly hollowed out to the shape of the arch, but do not
advance beyond each other, like the arch near the temple excavated
out of the rock at Thebes, but are supported only by <em>lateral
pressure</em>.<a id="FNanchor_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30" class=
"fnanchor">[30]</a> The stones of this arch are not joined with
cement; but above the roof are a quantity of small stones, which
are kept together by a soft description of cement. That these
arches are not recently added, is proved, not only by the
appearance of the monuments themselves, being exactly of the same
description of fine hard sandstone, and of the same colour; but
still more certainly by the circumstance, that the portico I
mentioned as covered with cement, and painted in the ancient
Ethiopian style, is also, fortunately, arched. The interior of this
arch is covered with cement, which is harder than the stone, and
painted.</p>

<p>The paintings on the arched roof, and the sides of the portico,
are evidently of the same period. As I have formerly observed,
owing, probably, to its very great antiquity, the painting is
nearly defaced; but still there was sufficient to convince me that
the style is certainly Ethiopian, of a far more ancient date than
the sculpture in the temple of Tirhaka.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw11">
<figure id="pl28">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 28.</p>
<a href="images/pl28.jpg"><img src='images/pl28.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>Drawn by L. Bandoni.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">PYRAMIDS OF GIBEL EL BIRKEL.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>London. Published by Longman, Rees &
C<sup>o</sup>. April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">[157]</span>The reader will
observe, also, in the section, a specimen of a semicircular arch.
They are drawn very small, as belonging to the pyramids, but they
are not, on that account, less accurate; and, therefore, almost
equally useful as if they had been made separate plates. The stone
forming the keystone of this semicircular arch is 1 foot 9 inches
in length; the stones supporting it, corresponding precisely, 2
feet 1 inch, and the one on each side following these, to the
spring of the arch, 2 feet 4 inches. The arch, then, not only the
circular, but the pointed, had its origin in Ethiopia. The oldest
known in Europe is, I believe, that in the Cloacum Maximum,
supposed to have been built in the time of the Commonwealth. The
great antiquity, of the one on the Tiber is proved by its singular
construction, forming almost, as it were, three arches beneath each
other.</p>

<p>I am aware that the learned will be sceptical concerning the
antiquity of these. There are no remains in stone to prove that the
Egyptians were so far advanced in the construction of the arch as
these specimens show that the Ethiopians were. The only stone arch
that exists in Egypt is the one at North Der, at Thebes; and that
one proves that the Egyptians were acquainted with its beauty, but
not its utility and the correct mode of constructing it. The
vaulted tomb of stones at Memphis is of the time of Psammitichus,
who reigned immediately after the Ethiopian dynasty. The brick
arches in the tombs at Thebes, covered with cement, on which are
the royal name of Thothmes and Amenoph, prove that the Egyptians
were, at that period, acquainted with the arch; but it is rather
singular that there is no earlier specimen: whence, I think, we may
infer, as those were built soon after the terrible wars commenced,
which are represented on the walls at Thebes, that the Egyptians
then, for the first time, invaded Ethiopia, and there saw and
became acquainted with that useful construction. There seems to me
no reason to suppose that the knowledge of the utility and
construction of the arch passed from Egypt<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_158">[158]</span> into Ethiopia: the contrary is much more
probable, as we have here far more perfect specimens than are found
in Egypt; and as there is no doubt of the very great antiquity of
these ruins, can there be any, that the invention of the arch had
its origin in Ethiopia?<a id="FNanchor_31"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a></p>

<p>The sandstone of which the pyramids are built is of a much
harder quality than that of the temples, being either from a vein
in the mountain which is now exhausted, or, as I conceive is most
probable, brought from distant quarries. This is an extraordinary
proof that the greatest pains were taken in the construction of
these edifices, to enable them to resist the ravages of time.</p>

<p>As to the antiquity of these structures, I conceive it to be
very great. Some of them appear more ancient than any that exist in
the valley of the Nile, with the exception, perhaps, of the
pyramids of Meroe and Nouri. They are the tombs of a dynasty of
kings whose names are now unknown. That they were royal sepulchres,
and not those of private individuals, is, I think, evident from
their being as magnificent as the pyramids at Meroe, which we know
to belong to kings from the ovals which they contain; and many of
the individuals in these tombs have the serpent, the emblem of
royalty, above their foreheads. If this had been the site of
Napata, I should conceive that the dilapidated state of the ruins
might have been caused by Petronius, who led there the Roman arms;
but in the <a href="#c20">Historical Appendix</a> I will give the
reader a further account of that celebrated expedition. I trust
that the hieroglyphic inscriptions which I have copied will contain
much valuable information; and that, at all events, the name of a
place, evidently once so considerable, may again, with certainty,
be enrolled in the list of cities. Her habitations and her palaces
are utterly destroyed: the desert is swallowing up the remains of
her<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">[159]</span> temples; and
the sepulchres of her kings are fast decaying. A city where the
arts evidently were once so zealously cultivated,—where science and
learning appear to have reigned,—is now possessed by ignorant
barbarian tribes. Where are the descendants of that people who
erected these splendid monuments to their gods? Were they
exterminated by the warlike tribe who now occupy this territory,
driven into other regions, or blended with the race of their
conquerors? These are questions of great importance, which I may
endeavour to illustrate in my historical chapter, but which I pass
by at present, as scarcely belonging to a topographical
description.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw11">
<figure id="pl29">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 29.</p>
<a href="images/pl29_large.jpg"><img src='images/pl29.jpg' alt=
''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>From a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins
Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp3">SCULPTURE IN A PYRAMID AT GIBEL EL BIRKEL.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>It is a circumstance, perhaps, worthy of remark, that some of
the most perfect heads sculptured on the pyramids had almost a
European profile. The Shageea—the brave tribe of Arabs who now
possess the magnificently rich and fertile plain near Gibel el
Birkel, and whose territory extends, on one side nearly to the
fourth cataract, and on the other to Dongolah—have, notwithstanding
the darkness of their complexion, nothing of the Negro
features.</p>

<hr class="chap">

<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">[160]</span><a id=
"c12"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2>

<p class="csum">PRESENT INHABITANTS OF BIRKEL. — FUNERAL CEREMONIES
IN THE MAHOMETAN BURIAL-GROUNDS. — NAME OF RAMESES II. OR
SESOSTRIS. — DESCRIPTION OF THE PRESENT STATE OF THE COUNTRY. —
INDIGO MANUFACTORIES. — THE SHAGEEA TRIBE. — ONE OF THEIR MELEKS. —
PYRAMIDS OF NOURI, DILAPIDATED STATE. — CURIOUS CONSTRUCTION OF
ONE. — GENERAL DIMENSIONS. — ANTIQUITY. — COMPARISON BETWEEN THE
ANCIENT AND MODERN BUILDINGS OF ETHIOPIA. — RETURN TO MEROUEH. —
TURKISH MANNER OF BEING PAID FOR SERVICES. — VOYAGE DOWN THE NILE.
— NUMEROUS VILLAGES. — SHAGEEA TRIBE. — INTOXICATION, LEARNING,
ETC. — VARIOUS VILLAGES AND ISLANDS. — EFFECTS OF THE CLIMATE AND
OTHER PECULIARITIES OF THIS COUNTRY ON THE CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE.
— NOBLE MANNERS OF THE ARABS. — DONGOLAH AGOUS. — PROBABLE SITE OF
NAPATA. — NEGRO SLAVES. — EFFECTS OF THE CRUELTY OF THEIR OWNERS. —
ENCROACHMENTS OF THE DESERT. — CULTIVATION. — PEASANTS.</p>

<p class="nind"><span class="sc">The</span> inhabitants of the
village of Birkel have their burying-place on the edge of the
desert. Two women died while we were there. On such occasions the
females of the village assemble in the house of the deceased, to
cry and bewail her death. Generally, after two or three hours, they
carry the body to the grave. On their arrival at the burial-ground,
they assemble round the corpse, and make a low melancholy howl, and
the nearest relations, with dishevelled hair and loud lamentations,
perform a kind of lascivious but graceful dance; not very unlike
that of the almæ in Lower Egypt, but the movements here are
different. They do not, like the almæ, remain fixed to one spot,
but move forward rather gracefully, bending their knees and back,
and throwing up their bosoms, keeping time to the clapping of hands
and their wild <em>lululoo</em>, of which there are two
descriptions, one expressive of grief, and the other of joy. This
dance is not so very indecent<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_161">[161]</span> as the Egyptian dance. When the body is
laid in the ground, stones are erected over the head and feet,
between which they make a narrow channel, as I mentioned before,
filled with small pebbles, generally of quartz, but invariably of
one colour. I asked of several persons an explanation of this
ceremony; but the only reply was, “It was the custom.” Burckhardt
states (page 269.), that a fakeer told him that it was a mere
meritorious custom; that there was no necessity for it, but that it
was thought that the soul of the deceased, when hereafter visiting
the tombs, might be glad to find these pebbles, in order to use
them as beads, in addressing its prayers to the Creator.</p>

<p>In the centre of the burying-ground is a large tomb of a saint:
this is also built of stone. These stones are all taken from the
temples, but they are generally without sculpture or hieroglyphics.
On one stone, however, I discovered half of the name of Rameses II.
or Sesostris. This is curious, and reminded me that Strabo<a id=
"FNanchor_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a>
speaks of a sacred mountain in Ethiopia, where there was a temple
of Isis, built by that conqueror; and Herodotus says that
Sesostris, that is, Rameses II., was the only Egyptian king who
made himself master of Ethiopia. My accidental discovery of this
name, is, I think, strongly corroborative of the correctness of
these two passages: this may be the mountain alluded to. That
conqueror must have constructed some edifices, otherwise I should
not have found his name. The temple of Isis may be the one
excavated in the rock, and afterwards adorned with sculpture, by
Tirhaka; and the statement of Herodotus, that he was the only king
who subdued the Ethiopians, is, I think, proved by the fact, that,
with the exception of the one which <em>may be</em> that of
Amunneith III., on the column of the great temple, this is the only
name I have found of an Egyptian king either here or at the Island
of Meroe. I begged the katshef who governed the
district<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">[162]</span> to desire
the peasants to take the stones that they required from the
mountain, urging that, as strict Mahometans, they ought not to take
them from Pagan ruins; but, unfortunately, there is no law in the
Koran by which this is forbidden. Here, therefore, is another cause
which will contribute to the speedy and utter destruction of what
still remains of this interesting city.</p>

<p>To give the reader an idea of the present state of fertility of
this country, notwithstanding that the desert has enormously
encroached on the cultivated land, the following particulars may
not be uninteresting:—The katshef of Meroueh commands as far as
Wanly, down the river, one day by land, about thirty miles; and up
the river as far as Berber, two days by land. Within this small
extent, over which only the banks of the Nile are cultivated, there
are 1368 water-wheels, which pay to the government twenty dollars
each, that is, 27,360 dollars; besides which, the government gain
considerably by obliging the peasants to plant indigo, which they
purchase from them at twelve piastres the cantar. They have
calculated that they make 190 drachms of indigo from each cantar.
Under the government of Dongolah, there are five manufactories of
indigo,—Meroueh, Handek, Haffeer, Dongolah Agous, and El Ourde. The
manufactory here produces 1846 okres<a id=
"FNanchor_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a>
every year, and is now increasing. The peasants are unwilling to
cultivate this plant, as the labour is very great; and they do not
consider the price they receive a sufficient remuneration.</p>

<p>The Shageea who cultivate this district are less oppressed than
their neighbours: they are, as Burckhardt and Waddington have
remarked, considered the bravest of the Arab tribes. This warlike
race alone never bent their knees to the great Sultan of Sennaar.
It is impossible to convey to the reader an adequate idea of the
power these daring warriors once possessed. The name of
a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">[163]</span> Shageea was a
host in itself. I have been repeatedly assured, that a single
horseman has often been known to alight at a peasant’s hut, order
the owner to hold his horse, whilst he entered into his very harem,
ate with his wives, and often, it is said, still more shamefully
abused his power. Death or slavery was the fate of the meleks of
the neighbouring tribes who dared to offend them. Mounted on their
dromedaries or horses, armed with lances, swords, and shields, they
scoured the province, sweeping away the herds, massacring all who
had the courage to resist, and carrying away men, women, and
children into captivity. War was their sole delight; the cry to
arms their most welcome sound. Mothers appeased the cries of their
infants by the sight of a spear; and the lovely maiden only yielded
her hand to the distinguished warrior. Their exploits are the theme
of many a song; and other tribes seem to have forgotten their
wrongs in admiration of the bravery of their oppressors. The
blessings of peace, agriculture, and domestic repose were
considered irksome by these proud warriors. They obstinately and
gallantly resisted the invasion of the Pasha, till they found it
vain, with their lances and sabres, to contend against fields of
artillery and disciplined troops armed with the musket.
Understanding that the Pasha was going to make war against Melek
Nimr and the Shendyans, who were also their enemies, they joined
his troops, and gradually came completely under subjection to him.
The government, however, treats them with some respect. As I have
stated before, a Shageea regiment is still in the Pasha’s service,
and engaged in the war against the Negroes, at the southern
extremity of his kingdom.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw10">
<figure id="pl30">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 30.</p>
<a href="images/pl30.jpg"><img src='images/pl30.jpg' alt=''></a>
<p class="cp1">A MELEK OF THE SHAGEEA TRIBE.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>On stone by W. Walton, from a Drawing by L.
Bandoni.</em><br>
<em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The ancient race of the meleks still exists, but the fortunes of
many are wofully changed. I took the portrait of one, an uncommonly
fine-looking fellow, who was constantly in the temple where I
resided, talking with my servants. (See <a href="#pl30">Plate
XXX.</a>) His long gown, or shirt, is called, in Arabic,
<em>e’tobe</em>. The shawl, or <em>el melayah</em>, is always put
on very gracefully. Their sandals, or<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_164">[164]</span> <em>nohel</em>, are useful in walking on
the sand, except when the latter is soft and heated by the sun:
they then afford them little protection, as their feet constantly
sink above the sole. As there was no barber in the village, and I
was told he had some skill in shaving, I allowed him to officiate
in that capacity; but most anxiously shall I avoid to have my head
again shaved by the son of a king. Never did I endure such a
scarification. His razor, one of the twopenny sort from Trieste,
was blunter than even a French table-knife; and he had no means of
sharpening it, but, according to the custom of the country, on his
bare arm. He drew blood four times, and scraped my head in such a
manner that it smarted for several hours afterwards; but it is
impossible to endure the wearing of one’s hair in this climate
after having once been accustomed to the luxury of having it shaved
every week; and having lost my penknife, I have been obliged to
take my own razor to cut my pencils. Travellers, in these
unprovided regions, must often have recourse to strange means of
supplying their necessities.</p>

<p><a href="#pl01">Plate I.</a> represents a Shageea with the dress
of the desert—merely a cloth around his waist: his colour is darker
than the other, which is accounted for from the life he leads,
continually exposed to the scorching sun.<a id=
"FNanchor_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34" class=
"fnanchor">[34]</a></p>

<p>During our residence in the temple of Tirhaka we were often
troubled with wolves, attracted, I presume, by the smell of the
meat, and who made too free with our larder. Fatigued always by
measuring and drawing all the day under this burning sun, we slept
too soundly to detect the thief; indeed, the roaring of a lion
would scarcely have roused our Arab servants: but we had a guardian
of another description, whose instinctive vigilance proved fatal to
the intruder. The little monkey the Mahmoor of Berber gave me was
chained to, and had his bed among, a heap of stones in the corner
of the sanctuary where Mr. B. and I slept. The<span class="pagenum"
id="Page_165">[165]</span> poor little animal, frightened most
desperately at the approach of so powerful an enemy as a wolf, and,
besides his bodily fear, having, of course, an interest in the
preservation of our larder, succeeded in rousing us by rolling down
the stones that were near it. It did this three nights together:
last night, one of my servants succeeded in shooting the thief.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw2">
<figure id="pl01">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 1.</p>
<a href="images/pl01.jpg"><img src='images/pl01.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by W. Walton from a Drawing by L.
Bandoni.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>

<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="width-half cp1">CAMEL MAN OF THE ABABDE TRIBE.</td>
<td class="width-half cp1">SHAGEEA OF THE DESERT.</td>
</tr>
</table>
</figure>
</div>

<p><em>April</em> 1. This afternoon we spent three hours in sailing
eight miles to the pyramids of Nouri. They are situated in a
slightly elevated part of the desert, a full half hour’s walk from
the river. There are traces of thirty-five pyramids, of which about
fifteen only are in any kind of preservation. These are not very
interesting, except as tombs, and from their imposing appearance,
not being ornamented with porticoes or hieroglyphic inscriptions.
The pyramids are all at right angles, and their direction is
generally nearly the same. Their size varies from 110 feet square
to 20. (See plan, <a href="#pl32">Plate XXXII.</a>, and picturesque
view, <a href="#pl31">Plate XXXI.</a>) There are eight above 80
feet square, and four more above 70 feet square: their height is
generally about the same as their diameter.</p>

<p><a href="#pl31">Plate XXXI.</a> is the most picturesque of three
views which I made of these pyramids; but the most remarkable for
size does not appear in this view. The plan will show that it
measures at the base about 110 feet square. It consisted of three
stages. Part of one having fallen, discovers another pyramid
underneath. They seem to have added this second pyramid around the
inner one, in order to increase its size, or, perhaps, to make the
body underneath doubly difficult to get at. The Egyptian method of
building pyramids with stages was, I think, by first erecting a
pyramid with a very acute angle, and then building around it the
first stage from the summit, and so on, in like manner, as many as
were required.</p>

<p>The pyramids are surrounded by the desert, which, I conceive,
has already covered the remains of several others. The waves of the
great Libyan ocean have probably swallowed up the<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_166">[166]</span> traces of the city and its
temples, which, from the extent and imposing appearance of its
cemetery, must have been considerable. The interior of some of the
pyramids is of puddingstone, very much decomposed. The sandstone
with which these monuments are covered, and often constructed, is
rather soft, as is nearly all the sandstone in Ethiopia; which
circumstance, and also their very great antiquity, may be the
reason, perhaps, of the very dilapidated state of the ruins.</p>

<p>Close to these pyramids, and almost surrounding them, are the
traces of a canal from the Nile; which, according to my
information, reaches for a considerable distance into the desert.
This circumstance proves that the cultivated land extended much
farther into the interior than at present. Cailliaud supposed this
place to have been the cemetery of Gibel el Birkel; arguing that
Thebes also had her tombs on the opposite side of the river. But
those of Gournah, and in the Valley of the Kings, if not close to
what formed part of the great city of Thebes,—which, however, is
very probable, from the numerous splendid temples and palaces, of
which there are still magnificent remains on that side,—were, at
all events, in the suburb, and exactly opposite the great city, and
not eight miles distant up the river, as these are from Gibel el
Birkel. Moreover, the tombs at Thebes are on the western side,
probably because the mountains on that side are nearer to the
river, and afforded greater facilities for excavations than those
of the eastern range. That the inhabitants of Gibel el Birkel,
therefore, should have chosen this place for their necropolis, when
they had space for hundreds on the spot where her pyramids are now
standing, or, at all events, might have erected them, if they
preferred it, immediately opposite on the western side of the
river, is an idea which no person who reflects on the subject can
entertain. They are most probably the tombs of another dynasty, and
of a city whose name may be among the many we meet with in the
itineraries. We may guess which of<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_167">[167]</span> them it was; but such surmises, without any
proofs to support them, are entirely useless.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw6">
<figure id="pl31">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 31.</p>
<a href="images/pl31.jpg"><img src='images/pl31.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by W. P. Sherlock, from a Drawing
by G. A. Hoskins Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">PYRAMIDS OF NOURI.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>I could not help drawing a comparison between these pyramids and
the celebrated ones at Geezah. The latter, although in a worse
climate and more exposed situation, have evidently suffered far
less from the ravages of time. There is scarcely one pyramid here
which is not so dilapidated that its architectural beauty is almost
entirely lost. The tropical rains seldom, if ever, reach so far
north as this province; yet numbers of the pyramids are quite
destroyed, and others are mere masses of shapeless ruins, without a
vestige of their ornaments remaining. From their appearance I
should conceive these to be the most ancient ruins in the valley of
the Nile: but there are no hieroglyphics remaining, to give us the
name of the city or its kings; and no sculpture, from the style of
which we might have a better idea of the period when they were
constructed. This necropolis is now more a place for the
philosopher than the artist: the city and its people are gone. The
splendid mausoleums of its kings are little better than piles of
ruins: the histories which they recorded are lost for ever. The
dreary terrible desert which surrounds them seems silently
devouring its prey, and many ages will not elapse ere this, the
real Typhon, will have swallowed up every vestige of its ancient
grandeur.</p>

<p>I conceive it not improbable that this is the site of the
ancient capital of this province, which may have been destroyed in
the wars between the Egyptians and the Ethiopians, perhaps by the
great Sesostris; and the city at Gibel el Birkel may have dated
from its ruin the increase of her magnificence. Succeeding
generations may have found the site of Gibel el Birkel more
advantageous, and the favour of a new dynasty of kings may have
enabled the new capital to eclipse her rival on the southern bank.
I mentioned, after crossing the Bahiouda Desert, and arriving at
the Nile, that the peasants informed me of some ruins which
are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">[168]</span> now covered by
the desert. I conceive the existence of these to afford further
confirmation of the former opulence of this country. I cannot
suppose, for a moment, that the city to which this necropolis
belonged was so far distant.</p>

<p>It is melancholy to see such numerous vestiges of imposing and
splendid structures, demonstrating the power, magnificence, and
knowledge of the former inhabitants of a province whose present
possessors scarcely have sufficient ability to construct for
themselves habitable mansions. The hovels of the peasants are
miserable in the extreme. The castles of the sheakhs are better,
but the rooms which they contain are extremely rude. This part of
Africa was formerly harassed by continual wars of one tribe and
nation against another. The necessity of guarding against surprise
obliged them to fortify their habitations, and having models in
their vicinity of ancient fortresses of the Ethiopians, the princes
gave to their residences a somewhat more tolerable appearance.</p>

<p><em>April</em> 3. We returned to Meroueh this morning, and I
received a visit from the katshef and his suite. His professed
object was to enquire whether he could be of any service to me, but
his real aim was chiefly to receive half the pay of the boat (120
piastres) which he had procured for me, to take us to Nouri, and
thence to Dongolah. I paid him the money as he desired, but he did
not take the trouble of giving it to the rais (the captain of the
vessel), who, poor fellow, of course, said that it was all right,
as complaint would only have procured him the bastinado. This is
the usual way in which the government remunerate themselves for any
pains they bestow in making arrangements for travellers.</p>

<p>We started at twelve, and passed, this evening, Kajjib, an old
Arab village, picturesquely situated on a rock. We stopped for the
night at the ruin of an old Saracenic castle, called Baheet, of
considerable size, with towers and a citadel. It has evidently been
of great strength, the walls being very thick; the inner part
is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">[169]</span> built of brick;
the exterior of stones piled together, as roughly as the enclosing
wall of a field in England. The rocks are of sandstone.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw11">
<figure id="pl32">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 32.</p>
<a href="images/pl32.jpg"><img src='images/pl32.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>Drawn by L. Bandoni.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">PYRAMIDS <span class="med">OF</span> NOURI.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>London. Published by Longman, Rees &
C<sup>o</sup>. April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p><em>April</em> 4. We have this day passed the Island of
Shenderab at half past seven; the Island of Manderab at eight, the
village of Korti and islands of Ingolass and of Onato at half past
eight; the small village on the western bank, called Ambicol, at
ten; the Island of Sennat at one; the village of Defur at three
P.M.; Genati at half past three, and stopped for the night at the
small Island of Bishaba.<a id="FNanchor_35"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a></p>

<p><em>April 5.</em> At seven we passed the village of Debba el
Dolib; or, as it is generally called, Debba, the commencement of
the road to Kordofan, and the last village of Dar Shageea. With all
their faults, the Shageea are the most interesting of the Arab
tribes I have seen. Their manly appearance, extreme valour, and
open and frank and noble manners, are very engaging; but I am sorry
to find that they are addicted to intoxication beyond any tribe I
have met with, spending the greater portion of their earnings in
bouza, and particularly in the strong spirit of the country
distilled from dates. Burckhardt (page 70.) has justly extolled
their courage and good faith, and hospitality to strangers that
have friends among them: but his account of their schools and
learning would scarcely be applicable to the Shageea of the present
day, who are too much enamoured of the dance and the cup to submit
to the <em>ennui</em> of study.</p>

<p>At half past seven we passed the Island of Geri, and a village
called Kutti, on the western bank. At half past four P.M. we passed
a small island called Amduburgh, and stopped soon after at Tangus,
another small island. The wind being invariably against us, we have
scarcely made any progress, and that only by tacking. The river is
about half a mile broad in<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_170">[170]</span> this part of the valley, and occasionally
even wider. There is scarcely any cultivated land, except on the
islands. The desert, generally, on each side of the river, presents
not an object to cheer the eye or relieve the mind. When the banks
of the river were sufficiently low to afford us an extensive view,
we saw only immense tracts of waste bounded by the horizon. The
peasants chiefly inhabit the islands, where they seem to have taken
refuge from the encroachments of the desert, being seldom able,
with their inadequate means, to resist its approach; but, as I have
before mentioned, there are still some villages on the banks, like
little oases, but not so beautiful. Notwithstanding some advantage
of their situation, and their feeble efforts to protect their
fields, year after year the Libyan and Nubian deserts are said to
extend their sway.</p>

<p>The gravity of the Arabs, who seldom laugh, and scarcely ever,
even under the influence of intoxication, give way to boisterous
mirth, must be in a great measure attributed to the character of
their country. Considering these people as living under a sky which
is ever the same, clear and beautiful, and accustomed to one
uniform landscape, the river, its islands, and surrounding wastes;
knowing few other nations, creeds, or customs; having ever before
their eyes these dreadful wildernesses; experiencing their horrors,
and feeling their destructive effects; it is not surprising that we
find them more grave than the inhabitants of southern climes in
general. Even boys have the carriage and demeanour of men. Neat in
their dress and simple in their manners, there is no affectation,
no dandyism. How ill-placed would such follies be in a region like
this! Natural and easy in their address, erect in their carriage,
they often display a calm and noble dignity of demeanour, which I
have never seen surpassed in any civilised capital. They salute you
courteously, and talk with gravity of your plans. There is no
feverish anxiety to shine in conversation, nor any obligation to
converse with you. After the first compliments,<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_171">[171]</span> unless any of them have
enquiries to make, they seldom speak. Every day is equally
beautiful and unclouded, therefore the weather is rarely, if ever,
the subject of conversation; and we have not, as in Europe, the
bore of discussing its appearance twenty times a day.</p>

<p><em>April</em> 6. At six A.M. we passed Ahmoor, a small village
on the west bank of the river, and at nine we arrived at Dongolah
Agous.</p>

<p><em>Dongolah Agous.</em>—After having seen that Shendy, Berber,
and Metammah, though the capitals of provinces, are but miserable
places, I did not expect to find Dongolah otherwise; still I could
not have conceived that a town once so considerable, the metropolis
of a large district, whose name so often occurs in history, would
have presented now so wretched an aspect.</p>

<p>Part of the town is in ruins. The desert has entered into its
streets: many of the houses are entirely covered with sand, and
scarcely an inhabitant is to be seen. One might have thought that
some dreadful convulsion of nature, or some pestilential disease,
had swept away the population. Part of the city is, indeed,
remaining, but until I entered the houses not a human being did I
meet with. I observed some houses in the town, of a superior
appearance, having divisions of rooms, galleries, and courts, and
evidently belonging to individuals once rich; but they are now
almost all deserted. In some of them that we entered I saw some
good-looking women: the men were idling away the day smoking and
sleeping. Such is the scene of desolation and inactivity which now
presents itself to the traveller at Dongolah. The mosque used by
the inhabitants, until recently, was a large building, which
tradition represents as very ancient, and as being built 200 years
before the Hegira: but it is evidently of a much more modern date.
It contains some granite columns, of bad workmanship, belonging to
the early Christian age.</p>

<p>I asked whether the residence of the Turkish government
at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">[172]</span> El Ourde was the
cause why the city was so deserted, but was told that that
circumstance had made little or no change. This was the proud reply
of poverty. I have been informed by others, that, before the
Pasha’s conquest, many of the inhabitants were in better
circumstances, and the town more populous, but that they are now
scattered elsewhere: many of them fled to Kordofan and Sennaar, on
the approach of the Pasha.</p>

<p>I conceive it not improbable that this is the site of Napata.
Pliny so distinctly places that city 100 miles lower down the Nile
than Gibel el Birkel, that I see no reason for supposing that
immense extent of ruins to be the remains of a town which he
describes as so very insignificant. Besides the distance agreeing
so exactly with Pliny’s account, the position of Dongolah Agous, as
a military station, to resist the arms of Petronius, would
certainly be advantageous. The desert and the present city may have
covered the vestiges of the temples Petronius destroyed.</p>

<p>I left Dongolah Agous at three, without having made any drawings
of the place, not conceiving it worth the delay. At half past three
we passed the large Island of Gadar; at four, Ullow; and, after
passing numerous villages and islands, we stopped for the night at
Gemin, a very small village.</p>

<p><em>April</em> 7. We passed this morning the village of Handak,
situated on the western side near the base of the river, and the
small Island of Marouerti, which resembles rather the ancient name
of Meroe, and must, I think, be a corruption of it. Names analogous
to that of the ancient capital of Ethiopia seem to be given
indiscriminately to villages on the banks and the islands.</p>

<p>I saw this evening a number of slaves going to Cairo. The manner
in which they were clogged, to prevent their escaping or rebelling
against their owners, was disgraceful and revolting in the extreme.
Each slave wore a clog made of a wooden pole, four feet long, with
a collar, of a triangular form, large enough to admit his head:
this triangular collar rests upon their shoulders,<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_173">[173]</span> and is so contrived with
straps that it is impossible for them to throw it off. When they
walk, they are obliged to carry it before them; and at night their
hands are tied to the centre of the pole, and their feet to the
bottom of it. The owners of the slaves showed me, with the
malicious grin of fiends, the effects of the cords, and the weight
of the machine on the hands, necks, and legs of their victims. They
confessed that they were often obliged to free their slaves
entirely from this torture, in order to preserve their lives: I saw
several in this situation, who seemed to have suffered severely
from being previously loaded with this machine.</p>

<p>I attempted to reason with one of the owners; and urged, that,
as he was obliged to leave them free occasionally, and run the risk
of their escaping, he might as well do so always, and that he would
find it his interest, as many actually died from this treatment. I
told him he ought, as a good Mahometan, to adopt a more humane
method of securing them. He told me, that he could not liberate
them all at once; for they had recently threatened that, if ever
they had the opportunity, they would kill him, and dye a red
<em>tarboush</em> (Turkish cap) with his blood. The slaves
understood this part of our discourse, and some laughed at this
expression; but in general they appeared in a dreadful state of
apathy and torpor, quite indifferent to the interest they saw me
take in their situation.</p>

<p>They were all negroes, with high cheek-bones, triangular faces,
eyes sunk deep in the head, thick lips, complexion a cold bluish
black colour, an expression heavy and unpleasing, and without a
spark of talent in their countenances. They were continually
demanding fire. After the extreme heat of the day, when the sun has
set, there follows a degree of cold, which, though slight, and to
me most agreeable, is no doubt felt severely by the slaves, who are
quite naked, and accustomed to a hotter climate; and they feel it
more sensitively, having been exposed the greater part of the day
to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">[174]</span> burning sun.
We make very little progress, the wind being always strong against
us.</p>

<p><em>April</em> 8. We passed to-day the village of El Urub.
Nothing can be more tedious and uninteresting than this voyage: we
have scarcely seen any cultivated ground since we left the town of
Meroueh, except the islands; the desert has almost entirely
overspread the banks of the Nile; and where there was once,
perhaps, a happy and numerous population, a people acquainted with
the arts, rich cities and villages, now no other track is to be
seen but that of the timid gazelle, which finds a secure pasture on
the bushy acacias which on each side border the river. The glaring
reddish yellow sands have supplanted the rich cultivation, and
waves of sand have swallowed up the vestiges of the temples and
palaces which adorned the cities. Where were the numerous towns
whose names we read in the itineraries? Are there no monuments
remaining of their magnificence, no traces of their habitations?
The vessel buried in the fathomless deep leaves but fragments which
are soon covered by the waters. Thus the Libyan and great Nubian
deserts, ever active and incessant in their attacks, have concealed
entirely from our view the little, perhaps, which the hand of time,
and more destructive ravages of war and religious fanaticism, had
spared.</p>

<div class="linegrp-container">
<div class="linegrp">
<div class="group">
<div class="line indent0">“No trace remains where once thy glory
grew:</div>

<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;The sapp’d foundations by thy force
shall fall,</div>

<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;And, whelm’d beneath thy waves,
drop the huge wall:</div>

<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;Vast drifts of sand shall change
the former shore—</div>

<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;The ruin vanish’d, and the name no
more.”—<span class="sc">Pope</span>’s <em>Iliad</em>, book
vii.</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>

<p>The rocks are of sandstone. There are some in the centre of the
river, whose channel, at this season, when the water is low, the
barks dare not navigate during the night, which they would
otherwise do, as there is then seldom any wind.</p>

<p>Our cabin being only three feet high, we are obliged to lie
on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">[175]</span> our beds day and
night. I find this much more fatiguing than travelling on the
camels. For myself, I should never have chosen this mode of
conveyance; but my artist was in such a bad state of health, that
he declared himself unequal to the exposure to the heat and the
slow fatiguing pace of the caravan.</p>

<p><em>April</em> 9. Wind still contrary: no variety in the
scenery. I will not fatigue the reader with a mere list of names of
villages, but must refer him to my <a href="#map">map,</a> in which
they are all marked down.</p>

<p><em>April</em> 10. There was no wind this morning; and we should
have arrived at Dongolah at nine, A.M., had we not received a visit
from a French physician in the employ of the Pasha. To meet a
European, in this country, is an occurrence so agreeable, that we
could not resist spending half the day together.</p>

<p>Some of the islands in this district are very rich. I remarked,
on one, numerous sugar-canes; and, in several, a mode of irrigating
the land unknown in Egypt, and displaying more skill than is usual
in the Pasha’s dominions. The ground near the Persian wheels is
very often uneven, and cannot be levelled without considerable
labour: they, therefore, form aqueducts with stakes or pieces of
wood from one to three feet high, as may be requisite, and place on
them the conduit, which is made of earth. These aqueducts are
extremely picturesque, as well as ingenious, being generally neatly
constructed, and covered with grass. All the watercourses in this
country are attended to with great care. The peasants are
invariably well clothed, and appear in easy circumstances. I
observe them occasionally assembled in an evening, under the palm
trees, smoking, and sometimes drinking a cup of Abyssinian coffee,
their greatest luxury.</p>

<p><em>April</em> 11. The wind being still contrary, and my
patience exhausted, I sent for camels from Dongolah, five miles
distant. The governor there, understanding that we were travellers,
immediately sent us some of his own dromedaries.</p>

<hr class="chap">

<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">[176]</span><a id=
"c13"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2>

<p class="csum">VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR. — EXTENT OF HIS GOVERNMENT.
— INDIGO. — WATER WHEELS. — POPULATION. — TAXES. — PRICES OF
PRODUCE. — OASIS OF DONGOLAH, CALLED EL GAB. — ROUTE TO KORDOFAN. —
INFORMATION ABOUT THAT COUNTRY. — BANEFUL CLIMATE. — CAPTAIN
GORDON. — ARAB TRIBES OF KORDOFAN. — GENERAL APPEARANCE OF NEW
DONGOLAH. — THE BAZAAR. — CURIOUS USE OF OINTMENT. — MERCHANDISE. —
THE BAZAAR. — SLAVE MARKET. — COMMERCE CARRIED ON BY BARTER. —
CURIOUS MANNER OF EFFECTING SALES. — DONGOLAH GOLDSMITH. —
AUCTIONEERS. — VARIOUS ARAB TRIBES. — COSTUMES. — WOMEN, THE
ELEGANCE OF THEIR ATTIRE. — BREAKING OF THE <em>RAT</em>. —
GIRAFFES. — HASSANYEH TRIBE. — ELEPHANTS.</p>

<p class="nind"><em><span class="sc">El Ourde</span>, or New
Dongolah.—April</em> 10-14. We arrived here at two o’clock, and
immediately paid a visit to Ibrahim Effendi, the governor of this
province. He is a man about fifty-five years of age, and of the
most unprepossessing appearance: he stoops to such a degree, that
his head nearly touches his knees. I am told that he has no talent,
but has attained this important situation entirely through the
intrigues of the harem. He has, however, the character of great
probity—a rare virtue among Turks; and is disliked by the Copts,
because he examines rigidly their accounts, and will not allow them
to trade and speculate with the public money. He is despised by the
Turks, because he does nothing for them, and lives in no style. He
has only one Mameluke to give him his pipe and wait upon him. I saw
no other servants, but observed that a few soldiers were brought in
to make a show and line the walls. On his divan there were only a
few officers, apparently of inferior rank, and certainly of a very
shabby appearance.</p>

<p>M. Martin, a French apothecary, stationed here in the
employ<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">[177]</span> of the
Pasha, very kindly pressed us to take up our abode in his house;
and we were glad of the opportunity of enjoying, for a short time,
a greater degree of comfort and cleanliness than we have been
accustomed to for several months. He also assisted me in finding
the persons best qualified to give me information.</p>

<p>The Mahmoor, the day after our arrival, paid me a visit, was
very communicative, and made himself agreeable, to the astonishment
of Monsieur l’Apothicaire, and in the evening he sent me a roasted
sheep; an attention, I understand, that he never was guilty of
before to travellers or natives.</p>

<p>This government extends from Abka<a id=
"FNanchor_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a>
to Wady el Gamer, near Berber. There are 5000 sakkeas (water
wheels), which generally irrigate from four to five feddans each
when planted with grain. The indigo requires more water, for they
calculate three quarters of a feddan of land to one wheel. They
produce in this province, 10,000 okres of indigo. Each water-wheel
requires four oxen, and four or five men and children. The
population may, therefore, be calculated at about eight for each
water-wheel; which would make 40,000 for this district; and I
conceive 10,000 may be added for those who cultivate the land by
the hand, merchants, servants, &amp;c. Some of the islands have
been planted this year, for the first time, with sugar-canes, which
have proved to be excellent; but they planted them without
reflecting that they had no machinery ready to manufacture sugar
with, and no person who understood the business. As the sugarcane
requires a water-wheel for each feddan, they do not intend to plant
them again. The governor obliged the peasants and soldiers to
purchase the sugar-canes at a certain price, in order that the
revenue might not suffer from the experiment.</p>

<p>There are some portions of the banks of the river, and
particularly the islands, which are cultivated after the
inundation, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">[178]</span>
irrigated, when necessary, by raising the water from the river with
buckets and other simple processes. Land irrigated in this manner
is taxed according to the quantity and description of produce. Each
water-wheel pays to the government 20 dollars, 15 in money and 5 in
produce; a heavy tax, when we consider that formerly, when under
their native meleks, they only paid 1 dollar, a sheep, and two
pieces of linen, value 6 piastres each; in all, little more than a
tenth of the present tax.</p>

<p>The revenue of this government, after paying the various
expenses, salaries, and the troops of the garrison, is greatly
absorbed by their having to furnish camels to convey the different
species of produce, such as indigo and grain, and slaves, which are
sent to Cairo. In particular, 2500 camels are loaded with gum,
brought annually from Kordofan. It is purchased from the peasants
there at the rate of 5 dollars the camel-load, which consists of
three cantars of 150 rotles<a id="FNanchor_37"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a> each; and the government
sell it in Cairo for 20 dollars the cantar; that is, 60 the load:
deduct about 10 dollars for the expense of the journey, and also 5
for the purchase-money, there remain 45 dollars clear profit for
the Pasha, which, on 2500 loads, is 112,500 dollars net. Elephants’
teeth are also purchased in Kordofan for 16 dollars the cantar, and
sold in Cairo for 80 dollars, and often more.</p>

<p>The government, as I have before stated, take part of the taxes
in grain: the following is a list of the prices paid by them,
compared to the current prices in the bazaar or market:—</p>

<table id="t178">
<tr>
<th>
</th>
<th colspan="2">Government Prices.</th>
<th colspan="2">Prices in the Bazaar.</th>
</tr>

<tr>
<th>
</th>
<th class="pad2"><em>s.</em>
</th>
<th class="pad-right2"><em>d.</em>
</th>
<th class="pad2"><em>s.</em>
</th>
<th class="pad-right2"><em>d.</em>
</th>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>Barley</td>
<td class="tdc pad2">3</td>
<td class="tdc pad-right2">9</td>
<td class="tdc pad2">3</td>
<td class="tdc pad-right2">0</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>Dourah</td>
<td class="tdc pad2">3</td>
<td class="tdc pad-right2">9</td>
<td class="tdc pad2">3</td>
<td class="tdc pad-right2">0</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>Wheat</td>
<td class="tdc pad2">4</td>
<td class="tdc pad-right2">3</td>
<td class="tdc pad2">4</td>
<td class="tdc pad-right2">6</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>Maize</td>
<td class="tdc pad2">3</td>
<td class="tdc pad-right2">9</td>
<td class="tdc pad2">3</td>
<td class="tdc pad-right2">0</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">[179]</span>The price of
mutton (fat, for cooking) in the bazaar, is 1<em>d.</em> per
rotle.</p>

<table class="tabw40" id="t179">
<tr>
<th>
</th>
<th><em>s.</em>
</th>
<th><em>d.</em>
</th>
<th>
</th>
<th><em>s.</em>
</th>
<th><em>d.</em>
</th>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">The price of a sheep</td>
<td class="tdc">1</td>
<td class="tdc">6</td>
<td class="pad1 pad-right1">to</td>
<td class="tdc">2</td>
<td class="tdc">0</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">The price of meat, per lb.</td>
<td class="tdc">0</td>
<td class="tdc">0¾</td>
<td class="pad1 pad-right1">or</td>
<td class="tdc">0</td>
<td class="tdc">1</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">The linen cloths of the country,
particularly of the district of Mahas, 24 piques in length, but
very narrow</td>
<td class="tdc">2</td>
<td class="tdc">0</td>
<td>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td>
</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="tdl-top hang1">Cotton, best kind (Belloe) per lb.</td>
<td class="tdc">0</td>
<td class="tdc">3</td>
<td>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p>The dourah is sown before the rising of the Nile, and is cut in
four months; and afterwards they have another crop, but it is not
so good. The barley is sown after the Nile has retired, and is
reaped four or five months afterwards; wheat the same. The indigo
plants remain in the ground three years, and are cut three times
each year, with an interval of two months between each cutting.
After dourah, maize is planted, and after maize other kinds of
grain.</p>

<p>Seven hours’ journey west of this place, amid the desert, is an
oasis called El Gab (the Wood), consisting of a forest of doums,
acacias, and some few date trees. It contains several springs, and
the Arabs send their camels thither in the summer to pasture on the
trees. This oasis has no antiquities nor traces of having ever been
inhabited; it extends, parallel with the Nile, nearly as far as
Debba, but, like all oases, is divided occasionally by the
desert.</p>

<p>The caravans from this place to Kordofan, and on to Darfour,
enter the desert at Debba el Dolib, a village I mentioned in
descending the river from Meroueh. From Debba to Shambrick, five
days: the water there not always good; but on the road to Harazi,
five days, and thence to the capital, on digging to the depth of
two or three feet, and sometimes less, they never fail of finding
good water. Zaagsouee, eleventh day; Kadjama, twelfth day; the
residence of a katshef of Kordofan, Gouniah, thirteenth<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_180">[180]</span> day; Mumat, fourteenth day;
Sherian-Abousieh, fifteenth day; Borah, sixteenth day; Kordofan, or
the capital, Ibazig, on the seventh day from Harazi, and the
seventeenth from the Nile, or Debba el Dolib.</p>

<p>I made repeated enquiries of both the Arabs and Turks, but did
not hear of there being any antiquities there. This journey would
be interesting for a naturalist, as they tell me that during the
rainy season there is a very great variety of birds: but it is then
very unhealthy. Ague and intermittent fevers are very prevalent. A
French physician, who had been stationed there some time, informed
me that during the rainy season he often took quinine in small
quantities, and conceived that, by that means, he had preserved
himself from a complaint which is so dangerous to Europeans.</p>

<p>The enterprising but unfortunate Captain Gordon fell a victim to
this climate.<a id="FNanchor_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38" class=
"fnanchor">[38]</a> I was told that he had visited several of the
mountain regions of Kordofan, and, to use the expression of the
Arabs, “had written down all the country.” He had commenced his
journey with the intention of endeavouring to discover the sources
of the Bahr el Abiad; but there was not the most remote chance of
his succeeding. Roustan Bey, who was then, and is now, the governor
of that country, would have allowed him to accompany his troops in
hunting for slaves in the neighbourhood of the White River. He
might have added something to our knowledge of the geography of the
country on that river; but to discover its source was
impossible.</p>

<p>As a hint to future travellers, I should notice a mistake which
he made, from not being acquainted with the customs of the country.
Instead of making a handsome present to Roustan Bey of a gold
watch, or fire-arms, which he should have done, considering the
essential and extensive services he required, he gave<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_181">[181]</span> him some gilt ornaments for
his wives: but the Turks having a great contempt for any article
that is not genuine, the Bey was naturally vexed at a present which
appeared to him so very insignificant. Captain Gordon was not to
blame, I understand, but his dragoman, for this inauspicious
commencement of their expedition. The Arabs and Turks say that
Captain Gordon died on account of having taken too much physic. In
a country where so much is left to nature, and the medical art so
little known, it is not surprising that his frequent applications
to his medicine chest, to relieve a severe attack of intermittent
fever, should have given rise to this report.</p>

<p>Before leaving Dongolah, this unfortunate traveller left a large
sum of money with a Turkish aga in whose house he lodged. When his
servant, after his death, returned to Dongolah, he called upon the
aga, and demanded his master’s property. The Turk, a notorious
scoundrel, proposed to the servant to divide the money and
property, and thus induced him to sign a certificate that his
master had left only a few old clothes, and no money. As soon as
the Turk had received this document, he refused to give any portion
of what he had promised to the servant; who, in revenge, accused
him before the government. I was not able to learn with certainty
whether the money, and, what was of far more consequence, his
papers, ever reached his friends. I purchased at Dongolah a piece
of Newman’s Indian ink, which formerly belonged to him.</p>

<p>I obtained from authentic sources the following information of
the different Arab tribes in the kingdom of Kordofan and its
vicinity:—</p>

<p class="hang1"><em>The Kababysh.</em> These Arabs are also found
in the Bahiouda Desert. They possess camels and horses, and
transport merchandise to Sennaar, Darfour, and to this place. Their
chief is called Melek Selim.</p>

<p><em>The Buggara.</em> They possess flocks, and are occupied in
hunting the elephant and the giraffe. Moussa is their chief.</p>

<p class="hang1"><span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_182">[182]</span><em>The Benigerar</em> have great abundance
of horses and camels. They are generally engaged in transporting
merchandise, sometimes to Darfour. They are often at war with the
Kababysh.</p>

<p class="hang1"><em>The Hammer</em> are chiefly cultivators of the
ground. They possess also camels, and trade to Darfour, but do not
come to this place. They are occupied also in tanning the skins of
animals, and the government employs them in their hunting
expeditions for slaves. Their arms resemble those of the other Arab
tribes,—the oval spear, the lance, and sword. Hadji Merien is their
chief or king, that is, melek.<a id="FNanchor_39"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a></p>

<p class="hang1"><em>The Hadowyeh</em> are cultivators, and join
the expeditions of the government like the Hammer: they possess
good dromedaries, and their melek is Uhmar, son of Dowel.</p>

<p class="hang1"><em>Messabouee.</em> Cultivators, and also assist
the government in their slave expeditions: their melek is Uhmar,
son of Hashim.</p>

<p class="hang1"><em>Danaglih.</em> Peasants of the country;
cultivators.</p>

<p class="hang1"><em>Konjarah.</em> A tribe from Darfour: the
masters of the country, under Magdum Selim, on the arrival of
Roustan Bey, who killed their chief in battle<a id=
"FNanchor_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a>:
their present chief is Sultan Tema.</p>

<p>The province of Kordofan is exceedingly productive to the Pasha,
and so also would Darfour be; and ere now that province would have
been annexed to his kingdom, had not his ambitious views been
turned towards Constantinople. A desert, I am told, of five days’
journey separates the two provinces. He might extend his conquests
thither without any apprehension of interference from the European
powers. If the peace in Syria continues, and Mohammed Ali lives,
that country, notwithstanding<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_183">[183]</span> the warlike and powerful tribes who inhabit
it, will soon form a part of the Pasha’s immense dominions; and
Europeans will be enabled to explore it with greater advantage than
our celebrated traveller Brown.</p>

<p>Dongolah, or New Dongolah, as I should call it, has far more the
appearance of a capital, than any place I have seen in Ethiopia.
The citadel is fortified with walls and towers sufficient to defend
it from the attacks of the Arabs, but not long against a European
army. There are a few pieces of cannon brought here by Ismael
Pasha, and there is generally a garrison of from 300 to 800 men,
but most commonly from invalid regiments, that have suffered by the
more unhealthy climates of Kordofan, Khartoun, and Sennaar, and are
sent here as fit for no other service. They have built an hospital,
but, although full of invalids, it is not yet finished,—the rooms
are without roofs, and the beds of earth.</p>

<p>There are several <em>cafés</em> in the town, much better than I
expected: one is very handsome; large, airy, and furnished with a
divan covered with carpets. Here the lazy Turks kill the day:
smoking, seeing the people pass by, playing draughts and other
games, and drinking coffee and sherbet.</p>

<p>The bazaar is superior to that of Assuan. The articles for sale
consisted of different stuffs, silk, linen, and cotton; tarboushes
(red Turkish caps), shoes, glassware, cures for ophthalmia (some of
which seemed on examination to contain zinc); and a variety of
pipes, from the handsome Persian anguilles and long Turkish pipes,
with their amber mouthpieces, worth two or three pounds each, to
the humble pipe of the peasant, value threepence: coarse thread and
common needles; salt, from the mines of Selima, white and beautiful
like crystal; a variety of cases for amulets, such as the women
wear around their necks and the men on their arms (see the various
plates of costumes); coffee from Mocha and Abyssinia; loaf sugar,
white and brown; tamarinds from Sennaar and Kordofan; and a variety
of arms, sabres,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">[184]</span>
lances, daggers, and pistols; and in every shop on sale, spices and
ginger, cloves, coriander seed, sandal wood, and a kind of kernels,
seemingly of cherries, which are said to come from Italy; the
natives extract oil from them. With the spices they make the
ointment which both males and females, particularly the latter, use
in this country to render their skin soft. I have seen them
sometimes almost naked, and smeared with this substance as if they
had been dipped in butter; and I have often seen the Arabs of the
desert place two or three pounds of mutton fat on their heads, and
walk on till the sun had melted it, when not only the head and face
were covered with the liquid grease, but it flowed in streams down
their backs. They consider their different ointments as
particularly conducive to health, especially after fatigue. There
is an old custom still kept up in the country. When an Arab or Turk
arrives in a village after a fatiguing day’s journey, he generally
gets some of the female slaves I have spoken of at Shendy, to rub
him for half an hour all over with this ointment. It is very
pleasant and refreshing, cooling and softening to the skin, which
has been burnt and dried up by the scorching winds of the desert. I
also observed in the bazaar common looking-glasses, and beads of
glass and other materials.</p>

<p>There were several separate markets for slaves, men, women,
boys, girls, and eunuchs. Most of the latter are from Abyssinia. I
am informed that they are generally the victims of the brutality of
the Abyssinians of neighbouring states. Besides increasing the
value of their slaves, they appear to wish to imitate the ancient
Egyptians, whose cruelty in that respect is explained in the
triumphant procession on the walls of Medenet Abou, at Thebes. I
saw one extremely beautiful Abyssinian girl on sale for 150
dollars, and for another not remarkable for her beauty 80 were
demanded.</p>

<p>I observed a custom, which is peculiarly characteristic of this
district: the peasant girls, and also the men, bring from the
country small quantities of grain and other produce, which
they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">[185]</span> exchange for
perfumes and spices for their hair and persons. This is conformable
to our European idea of remote and uncivilised people, carrying on
commerce simply by barter. They showed me in the bazaar some rudely
shaped pieces of iron, said to be the money of Darfour.</p>

<p>Some of the peasant girls buying spices in the bazaar were very
pretty. I told one, that had she been a slave I would have
purchased her. She laughed at my compliment, and replied, with
great <em>naïveté</em>, that, upon her conscience, she was no
slave.</p>

<p>To make a purchase in the bazaar is sometimes rather difficult.
I asked one of the merchants the price of a pipe, which I thought
of buying. The man was confused, and could not make up his mind how
much he ought to ask; but, seeking to enhance its value by praise,
without replying to my question, he continued to extol its
different excellencies. The other merchants pressed him to name a
sum. The man was very much embarrassed, particularly as we had
desired him to state the lowest at which he could sell it,
otherwise we should not treat with him. It was only, however, when
he saw me walking away, that he could resolve to ask only twice the
value of the article. It is the custom here for the purchaser to
bid, and not for the merchant to name the price. If the offer does
not equal his expectations, he says, <em>Eftah Allah!</em> “May God
open your eyes!” or, “May God improve your judgment!”</p>

<p>I went into a shop in which there was a shabbily dressed
common-looking fellow squatted on the ground, with a few miserably
rude tools before him, on a board. I conceived he might be a
joiner, and must confess I was rather surprised at finding that he
was the first goldsmith in Dongolah. They cannot work European
gold. They generally employ the gold of Sennaar, which is of a
superior quality, being pliable and malleable, like lead. This man
told me that my watch was not gold, for he had never seen gold so
dark-coloured.</p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">[186]</span>They have a
custom here, as well as at Cairo, of selling merchandise, such as
clothes, &amp;c. by auction in the street. The auctioneer walks
about, calling aloud the price. One makes an offer, and the man
walks on; another meets him, who likes the article, and bids
higher. The owner promotes the sale by giving occasionally a
bidding himself.</p>

<p>The crowds in this bazaar, as compared with the deserted streets
of Berber, Shendy, and Metammah, and the variety of costumes worn
by Turks and Caireens, Fellaheen (or, as they are more properly
called here, Dongoloue), Bishareen, Ababde, Shageea, and other
tribes, formed a scene gay, and not unpleasing, particularly after
the solitudes of the desert.</p>

<p>The costumes of Dongolah are somewhat different, but, perhaps,
less remarkable, than any I have seen in Ethiopia. The women, when
they are married and have had children, have their hair dressed on
each side of their face, in three rows of ringlets, or tresses, the
lowest often reaching to their shoulder. The other females are only
permitted to wear two rows. The head-dress of the women of Shendy
is rather different: they wear their hair loosely projecting from
each side and behind, while on the top of the head it is quite
flat. But what is most extraordinary in the costumes of this
country is the inimitable grace and elegance with which their robes
are adjusted, often almost equalling the drapery of the ancients.
Were it possible to collect correct drawings of their almost
innumerable methods of folding their <em>melayah</em>, the large
long piece of linen cloth which forms their chief, and often only,
covering, I question if such drawings would be believed any thing
else than copies of the Greek and Roman draperies, or studies of
ancient costume. A sculptor would assuredly call them walking
statues.</p>

<p>The young girls, before being married or having arrived at the
age of discretion, only wear the rat, the Nubian covering,
composed, as already mentioned, of thin thongs of the hide of the
hippopotamus,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">[187]</span> which
reaches from the waist almost to the knee, and is coquettishly
ornamented with masses of silver, and a variety of shells and
beads. It is considered sufficiently modest in this country, where
no consequence is attached to the exposure of the body and limbs;
otherwise, so far as it extends, it forms an elegant and
impenetrable skreen. (See girl in <a href="#pl37">Plate
XXXVII.</a>) The changing of this costume, or breaking of their
rat, upon their marriage, is rather a curious ceremony, which I
will presently describe; but when the rat is torn merely on account
of the advanced age of the girl, and not at her marriage, only a
sheep is killed, and she and her relations receive the
congratulations of their hungry friends.</p>

<p>Skins of animals are often exposed for sale in the bazaar, but
they are generally too ill prepared to be of any use for stuffing,
often wanting the most essential parts, such as the feet, and even
the head. Had I been half an hour earlier there, on the day of my
arrival, I could have bought for four shillings the skin of a
giraffe. This animal, only so recently known in Europe, is found in
great numbers on the road from Debba to Kordofan, between Sabrian
and Gibel el Arazi, and behind Kordofan, on the Bahr el Abiad, the
territory of the Buggara tribe. The government do not encourage the
Arabs to seek for them. On the contrary, without an express
permission from the Pasha, no Arab, Turk, or traveller is allowed
to purchase one. When the peasants catch them for the government,
they receive a remuneration of twenty-five dollars, which is
considered very handsome. Had I been provided with a permission
from the Pasha, I was told that I should have had little difficulty
in procuring one at that price. At the time of the <em>haref</em>
(the rainy season), the Hassanyeh retire with their herds and
camels into the mountains and valleys, which afford ample pasture
for their cattle for three or four months. They protect themselves
from the little rain that falls with <em>shambries</em> (tents made
of goat skins). During this season the chase also contributes to
their support. When there is no rain, which is very<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_188">[188]</span> often the case, the sun, being
then almost vertical, produces a heat so excessive that the
gazelles, giraffes, ostriches, &amp;c. are said to become much less
capable of escaping pursuit than during winter. The Hassanyeh then
on their swift horses catch them without much difficulty.</p>

<p>This tribe (Hassanyeh) is very extensive, and trade to Kordofan;
and great numbers of them in this neighbourhood convey merchandise
to Assuan. They are very fine-looking fellows, more grave in their
manners than even the Arabs in general. They wear their hair
plaited, and tight behind; differing, in this respect, from any
other tribe. (See <a href="#pl39">Plate XXXIX.</a>, in which they
are represented straining the common bouza of the country through a
straw funnel.) I have travelled with several of them, and liked
them exceedingly. In the same tracts with the giraffe is found also
the antelope, or, as it is called, the cow of the desert
(<em>buggera el Atmoor</em>), with straight and twisted horns (see
<a href="#pl37">Plate XXXVII.</a>); also gazelles in abundance. The
elephant is found in Abyssinia, and, it is said, also above
Sennaar, in the province of Fazoql, and in that of the Buggara,
behind Kordofan. There are a great many of the gemet cat in this
neighbourhood. They have small thin heads, long backs of a grey
colour, with brown spots, and a black streak along the centre. Some
of them are eighteen inches long, besides the tail, which measures
twelve inches. The colour of the latter is alternately grey and
black. Mr. M. had several in cages: when set at liberty in a room,
they seemed to be very timid, and one of them was rather savage.
Their velocity is extraordinary.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw7">
<figure id="pl39">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 39.</p>
<a href="images/pl39.jpg"><img src='images/pl39.jpg' alt=''></a>
<p class="cp1">THE HASSANYEH TRIBE.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>On stone by W. Walton, from a Drawing by L.
Bandoni.</em><br>
<em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<hr class="chap">

<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">[189]</span><a id=
"c14"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h2>

<p class="csum">MARRIAGE AND OTHER CEREMONIES OF DONGOLAH. —
CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE, THEIR HABITATIONS. — WOMEN, THEIR
AMUSEMENTS. — ARAB TALE. — GOVERNMENT OF DONGOLAH.</p>

<p class="nind"><span class="sc">An</span> account of the
ceremonies of marriage, &amp;c. in this part of the interior of
Africa may not be uninteresting to the reader, as differing much
from those we are accustomed to, and elucidating the manners of the
present inhabitants of Ethiopia. Though I travel for the purpose of
studying the remains of the ancient grandeur of these realms, I
omit no opportunity of observing the customs of the present
inhabitants, their condition and government.</p>

<p>The ceremonies of marriage vary in a slight degree in almost
every district of the valley of the Nile; but in no place are they
more curious than in the province of Dongolah. The nuptial ceremony
of every country appears singular in another. The Arab would be
astonished at the solemnity of our weddings, particularly at the
weeping which sometimes takes place, although, perhaps, he would
have no objection to the plum-cake; and, if impatient to possess
his treasure, would not dislike the marriage <em>sans façon</em> by
the blacksmith at Gretna Green. Our customs would appear as strange
to him as even the following description of an Arab wedding to a
British reader.</p>

<p>As soon as a Dongaloue has collected a small sum, sufficient,
according to his condition, to defray the expenses of the fête, he
looks out for a girl suited to his taste. Having fixed his choice,
he sends two persons to make his proposals to her father, or
whatever relation has charge of her. When he is accepted, and the
friends<span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">[190]</span> on both
sides agree to the wedding, he sends his intended bride a variety
of presents; the <em>gourbab</em>, or drapery of linen which they
wear around their waists, and also other pieces of wearing apparel,
shawls, and linen; and, besides these gifts, he sends her also
money, wood, and, according to his fortune, from four to forty
ardebs of grain. Accompanied by his friends, he then goes to the
house of the bride; her father meets him at the door, and in the
presence of the cadi, and of the relations and friends of both
parties, and of the fakeers of the village (men who can read and
write a little, and have the reputation of being pious Mahometans),
the father gives away his daughter, and the bridegroom receives the
gift. “I give you my daughter for wife:”—“I take your daughter for
wife,” is all that passes; the cadi and other witnesses of the
contract then invoke God and the Prophet to bless their union. In
the mean time the girls and matrons of the village are inside the
house with the bride.</p>

<p>The cadi having witnessed the agreement and taken his departure,
the father of the girl invites the bridegroom into the house. A
curious scene then commences, which baffles description: the female
friends of the bride, having hid her in some secret room, as soon
as the bridegroom enters, rush upon him, and begin pulling him
about, and pinching him, often not in the gentlest manner. The
husband hunts in every direction for his bride; but her friends,
first drawing him on one side, and then on the other, and pinching
him unmercifully, fully occupy his attention, and prevent his
making the discovery. At length, worn out with fatigue, and having
supported his character by fighting as good a battle as he was
able, he gives them a handsome present of money to inform him where
she is. Then commences another ceremony—the tearing of the rat, or
cincture, as I have already mentioned. The rat, on this occasion
only, is protected and covered with folds of linen, tied and
knotted in the most complicated manner. The bridegroom endeavours
to undo this Gordian knot,<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_191">[191]</span> amidst the laughter of the bride and her
friends: but the latter are not merely idle spectators; they
commence again pulling him about, and pinching him most
maliciously. The bride also does not omit the opportunity of giving
him slily an affectionate pinch or two. At last, he is obliged to
purchase again the assistance of the girls; and they generally make
him pay dear. If his first present is not sufficiently liberal,
they continue tormenting him until he has satisfied their
expectations.</p>

<p>The women having taken off the covering that protected it, the
bridegroom seizes the rat, and tears it in pieces; the bride, on
this occasion only, has a piece of linen underneath; yet it
sometimes happens that the wicked bridegroom succeeds also in
snatching away this under-covering, and turns the laugh against his
bride; this, however, is considered here little more than a
harmless jest.</p>

<p>For seven days they continue feasting and dancing. The bride
generally keeps her face covered during this time, but the
bridegroom is permitted to laugh and practise with her what we
should call rather rough jokes, as their chief amusement seems to
be pinching. On the seventh evening, the bridegroom conducts his
bride to his house, and another curious custom is practised. The
male friends of the husband and the female friends of the bride
assemble around a large board, on which a great quantity of grain
or dates is placed. When the signal is given, the parties commence
a scramble, each striving most earnestly to collect the largest
quantity. If the women succeed, the wife is to rule her husband; if
the contrary, the husband is to be master of his own house. If this
ceremony took place in Europe, the men, through indolence and
politeness, and being engrossed in various pursuits, not to say
deference for the good sense and peculiar talents of the fair sex
in managing domestic affairs, might gladly cede the greater
quantity to the women; but here it is considered too great a
disgrace for a man to relinquish any portion of his authority to
his wife, to admit of such courtesy.</p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">[192]</span>When they name
their children, there is very little ceremony: four days after the
birth the name is given, and a sheep is killed for the fête.</p>

<p>The ceremony of the circumcision of the male is also curious: it
takes place when the child is about four or six years of age. All
the friends and relations of the family assemble at the house of
the father, bringing with them presents according to their
means,—horses, oxen, cows, corn, money, &amp;c. After partaking of
some refreshment, they walk in procession to the river, and all the
males bathe together. On their return to the house, the child is
placed on an angoureeb, and the ceremony performed. A bunch of
flowers is then placed in his hand, with scents, and the relations
and friends pass the one after the other, kiss and smell the
bouquet, and give the child as liberal a present as they can
afford. There is, generally, so great a mixture of persons on these
occasions, that these gifts vary from upwards of two pounds to one
penny: all, however, are expected to give as much as they can
afford. In Egypt they often postpone this ceremony until the child
is twelve or fourteen years of age; but in this country the family
gain so large a sum by it, that they seldom if ever delay it so
long. For the girls there is no fête: at most they merely kill a
sheep. This ancient ceremony probably had its origin in this
country. Herodotus, after mentioning that the Phœnicians and
Syrians derived the custom from the Egyptians, seems to doubt
whether the Egyptians had it from the Ethiopians, or the Ethiopians
from the Egyptians.</p>

<p>I described a funeral at Gibel el Birkel in Dar Shageea. Here,
also, they sometimes dance on these occasions, but not often. It is
an old custom, and not considered strictly Mahometan. Both sexes
are buried on the very same day that they die, generally a few
hours afterwards.</p>

<p>The contests which took place between the Arabs of the mountains
and the Berberene peasants, cultivators of the land,
are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">[193]</span> suppressed by
the authority of the Turkish rulers; but their contempt for each
other is often displayed. When an Arab of the desert is oppressed
by a soldier, his first exclamation is, “Do you take me for a
Berberene?” The latter, in return, pride themselves on not being
obliged to lead the vagrant lives of the wandering Arabs. The
peasants of Dongolah are extremely honest: no bar nor lock is
necessary, to secure the door against the thief; nor is falsehood
known among them. They are always hospitable to the extent of their
means. I never saw a peasant sit down to eat, without inviting all
that were near him to take a share; and the poor and fatigued
traveller is never refused a night’s lodging and an evening
meal.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
<figure id="pl36">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 36.</p>
<a href="images/pl36.jpg"><img src='images/pl36.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by W. Walton, from a Drawing by
L. Bandoni.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">EXTERIOR OF A DONGOLAH COTTAGE.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The inhabitants of Upper Nubia have been so many years
accustomed to the Turks, that white men are now no longer looked
upon with horror. Burckhardt tells an amusing tale, that, in the
bazaar at Shendy, he raised his turban, and showed his white shorn
head to a peasant girl, who, I suppose, had never seen flesh so
white before, and, terrified at the sight, exclaimed, “Um del Allah
min Shatan!”—“May God preserve me from the Devil.” This is one of
their favourite expressions; but the white man now incurs no risk
of having it so peculiarly applied to himself.</p>

<p>Most of the houses of the peasants are of mud, that is, the
alluvial soil of the Nile, mixed with cow and horse manure; the
latter is much used: straw is rarely added. Many of the houses in
the country, built of dourah straw, are extremely picturesque. The
two views (Plates <a href="#pl36">XXXVI.</a> and <a href=
"#pl37">XXXVII.</a>), taken from nature, will give the reader a
good idea of their construction, and also their inhabitants. The
lordly Turk is smoking on the only angoureeb in the house; one man
is grinding on a stone, for his lazy wife, whose business it is
considered to be, merely as much dourah as will suffice for their
mid-day and evening meal; and others are occupied in making and
drinking their favourite beverage the bouza. I have already noticed
the graceful<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">[194]</span> style
of the costumes both of the men and women; the latter are often
handsome, having fine forms and a good expression.</p>

<p>The wives are generally virtuous and gay: the dance is their
favourite amusement, but not so much indulged in here as in the
province of Dar Shageea. Their greatest delight is listening to the
tales of the country, which, though simple, are full of imagery,
and have, in the Arab language, a peculiar charm. A translation, I
fear, cannot give a full idea of their beauty. The following is a
tale I heard related by a little Ababde girl of thirteen; and even
at an earlier age their memories are stored with similar stories,
which, if any one had the disposition and the leisure to collect
them, would form a considerable and not uninteresting supplement to
the Thousand and One Nights.</p>

<h3>DONGOLAH TALE.</h3>

<p>“Amnah was the most lovely of the daughters of the Nile: fair as
the sand of the desert, the gazelle was not more elegant in form,
or more graceful in its movements. Her bust was beautiful, and her
skin soft and pliant to the touch. Her face was as the light of
day; her eyes were bright as the stars; her teeth whiter than the
polished ivory; and a lovely and ever-constant smile illumined her
countenance. Nature had done her utmost; Fortune equalled her rival
in loading her with its favours. Her necklaces were numerous, and
of the finest gold; and great was the weight of gold on her wrists
and ankles. Her hair was beautifully plaited, and decorated with
the largest and rarest pearls, and broad plates of gold above her
forehead; and two large and most precious ornaments set with
diamonds hung gracefully from her ears. Her rat (cincture)
presented every variety of colour; the skin of the hippopotamus was
never cut so fine: it was ornamented with the most curious shells
and pieces of gold<span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">[195]</span>
and silver attached coquettishly in the most becoming manner; and
the border of the rat around her waist consisted of coral and
pearls. From her waist to her knees, only, this graceful ornament
skreened her form; and there was not one of the youths of the
village and of the neighbourhood, who had ever seen Amnah, who did
not sigh and regret bitterly his being unworthy that her rat should
be broken for him. ‘The houries of the paradise of the prophet
cannot,’ said they, ‘be more enchanting, endowed with such
ravishing beauty, or such extraordinary talents.’</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw4">
<figure id="pl37">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 37.</p>
<a href="images/pl37.jpg"><img src='images/pl37.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by J. Hamerton from a Drawing by
L. Bandoni.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">INTERIOR OF A DONGOLAH COTTAGE.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>“She was, at the same time, the gayest of the gay, and also
acquainted with all the learning of her tribe. Her father and other
travellers had related to her the history and customs of other
countries, and from them she had learnt the traditions and wars of
her native land. Every passage of the Koran was familiar to her;
and it was whispered she had devoted herself secretly to the study
of astrology (el ahlem el felek), and the more hidden sciences of
the Arabians. At midnight she was often seen alone, gazing at the
heavens; and for this reason the nomage she received for her beauty
and understanding was blended with a certain feeling almost
approaching to fear. Too beautiful, pure, and learned to be of this
world, she was considered by the ignorant peasants more as an angel
of light (melik e’ nour), than a frail inhabitant of earth.</p>

<p>“At the death of her father, after she had accompanied his
remains to the grave, and for some time had lamented his loss,
Amnah, weary of the constraint to which her sex subjected her, and
anxious to visit those scenes which she had so often heard
described, left her native village. The morning after her
departure, at the entrance of a small town, she observed an old man
covered with vermin. ‘My father,’ said she, ‘let me free you from
those tormentors;’ and she began killing the animals, until
suddenly the man fell dead at her feet. ‘It is the will of God!’
she exclaimed,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">[196]</span> and
immediately dressed herself in his clothes, and pursued her
journey.</p>

<p>“Thus disguised, and safe by the power of magic from detection,
she procured a dromedary swift as the wind, and visited the
different regions she had heard described; sometimes joining one
caravan, and sometimes another. The immense treasures on her person
were little diminished by this expense; when, one day, the people
of the caravan with which she travelled perceived a cloud of sand
approaching them, and shortly afterwards distinguished a troop of
horsemen at full gallop. Amnah and her companions urged on their
camels, but, finally, finding flight useless, they endeavoured to
hide themselves in a large well, which the heat of the summer had
dried up. But the horsemen had seen them enter, and, delighted to
have their prey secured, they offered to the young leader of their
band his choice, whether he would have for his portion the first or
the last of the persons whom they should find in the well.</p>

<p>“Their chief, named Mustapha, was only twenty-one years of age,
but renowned for his skill in the use of the matchlock, the sabre,
and the lance. His shield, of the hide of the hippopotamus, was
almost useless; for with his sabre he parried the blows of his
enemies; with a slanting cut of his Damascus blade, which his
father, who had travelled far towards the north, had brought him,
he separated the limbs of his foes, and even severed the iron
chain. At the shake of his lance all fled before him; and never was
a matchlock in more skilful hands. In form, he was the perfection
of manly beauty and vigour, and his mind was richly endowed,
displaying a judgment beyond his years, and greater presence of
mind in danger than the oldest warrior. The Koran he knew by heart,
and his chief delight was in listening to the traditions of his
country. Young and generous, he could never repress his indignation
at the recital of the evil deeds of the tyrants who<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_197">[197]</span> had reigned over the land: his
eyes kindled with enthusiasm, and his cheeks glowed with pleasure
and emulation when they told him of the valorous exploits of his
ancestors, their generosity and hospitality. Like the rest of his
race, much of his time was spent in excursions against the tribes
with whom they were at war.</p>

<p>“Perceiving where the caravan had taken refuge, Mustapha, having
the first choice allowed to him, said, ‘I will take for my share
the captive at the extremity of the well: he who has most to lose
will have fled the farthest.’ His companions cast lots for their
portions. Some had young women, others young active male slaves;
all with some treasure. None were apparently so unfortunate as
Mustapha, who found at the extremity of the well Amnah disguised as
an old man, miserably clad, the picture of poverty. His companions,
with the freedom of friends, rallied him on the wisdom of his
choice, in the following lines, which one of them sang, and the
others joined in chorus<a id="FNanchor_41"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a>:—</p>

<div class="linegrp-container">
<div class="linegrp">
<div class="group">
<div class="line indent0">‘Our chief, what wisdom he has
shown!</div>

<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;God has blessed him with great
judgment.</div>

<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;O, what a prize he has
gained!</div>

<div class="line indent2">So young and so active a slave;</div>

<div class="line indent2">So splendid and costly his dress;</div>

<div class="line indent2">So sweet the scent of his body!</div>

<div class="line indent0">Our chief,’ &amp;c.</div>
</div>

<div class="group">
<div class="line indent2">‘He will lead your horse to the
field;</div>

<div class="line indent2">&nbsp;Give you your lances in
battle,</div>

<div class="line indent2">&nbsp;And ward off the treacherous
blow.</div>

<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;Our chief, what wisdom he has
shown!</div>

<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;God has blessed him with great
judgment.</div>

<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;O, what a prize he has
gained!’</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>

<p>“Mustapha bore good-naturedly the jests of his companions, and,
not wishing to appear to despise the gift of
Providence,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">[198]</span>
although apparently useless, he led to his castle, as prisoner, the
disguised Amnah. On his arrival, he asked her what she could do:
‘Can you cut wood?’ said he. ‘No,’ replied Amnah, ‘I have no
strength: see you not that my arm is shrivelled up with age?’ ‘Can
you carry it?’ said the chief. ‘No,’ she said, ‘my back is already
double; I should sink under the lightest weight.’ ‘Can you guard
the cows, or sheep?’ ‘Alas, no!’ replied Amnah, ‘they walk too fast
and far for me.’ ‘Can you clean the horses?’ ‘I know not how.’ ‘Can
you wash the sand for gold-dust?’ ‘My eyes are not good enough.’
‘You are too dirty to make bread. Can you attend the geese?’ ‘I
think I can,’ said Amnah; ‘at all events, I will try.’</p>

<p>“Mustapha gave her for her companion a dumb youth, called
Yabebe. After some days, when Yabebe was bathing in the river,
Amnah took off her disguise, and showed herself, to the astonished
peasant, as the perfection of beauty, covered with gold and
precious stones, her hair ornamented with fine pearls and plates of
gold, and her earrings studded with diamonds: laughing, she sang to
him the following lines<a id="FNanchor_42"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a>:—</p>

<div class="linegrp-container">
<div class="linegrp">
<div class="group">
<div class="line indent0">‘Open your eyes, Yabebe:</div>

<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;See! I am young and lovely,</div>

<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;Covered with gold all over;</div>

<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;My necklace of gold,</div>

<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;My earrings of gold,</div>

<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;My bracelets of gold,</div>

<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;And gold round my arms,</div>

<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;And gold round my legs,</div>

<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;Gold on my forehead,</div>

<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;And gold on my rat;</div>

<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;Pearls and silver also.</div>

<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;Open your eyes, Yabebe;</div>

<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;See, I am young and lovely,</div>

<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;Covered with gold all over!’</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>

<p>“The astonished peasant left the river, and Amnah,
laughing,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">[199]</span> resumed
her disguise. On his return to the castle, the dumb youth made
signs to his chief that Amnah was a woman, beautiful, and covered
with gold. They surveyed her, and, not finding out her disguise,
beat the boy for his improbable falsehood.</p>

<p>“The day afterwards they were at the same river: Amnah threw
aside her disguise, put her ornaments together, and bathed herself,
with the lad, in the shaded stream. The peasant went first out of
the water, and unobservedly stole one of her rings. Amnah, having
counted them, found one missing. Yabebe denied having taken it.
Amnah beat him, but still he denied, and, escaping from her, fled
to his master, and gave him the ring, describing, by signs, that
she had similar ones on all her fingers, and was covered with gold
and precious stones; that she was a woman, and that her beauty was,
as the mid-day sun (jemeel mittel e’ shamps fel dohr), too powerful
to gaze at. Mustapha sent for Amnah, and, flying suddenly upon her,
tore open the rags that covered her, but fell senseless at the
sight of such exquisite beauty.</p>

<p>“Great was the fête of the marriage, countless the camels and
sheep that were killed. The music was incessant for seven days and
seven nights, and they danced until they could dance no more. None,
for many years, saw the brilliancy of her face, being ever in her
harem, or closely veiled, when, occasionally, she appeared in
public. The fame of her beauty, knowledge, and goodness was spread
through all lands; the learned were anxious to converse with her;
but none, except her husband, had seen her face.</p>

<p>“One day her dearest son fell from a tree that he was climbing.
His cries reached the ears of his anxious mother. Without a veil,
without a garment, she rushed forth. The crowd, on seeing her, fell
as dead. They knew not if the effect was produced by magic, or by
the power of her exquisite beauty. At her touch her son was
restored; and, having clothed herself with a gourbab, and thrown a
veil over her head, the crowd recovered; but the tree<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_200">[200]</span> withered from that day: the
branches decayed fast; the leaves fell on the ground, and it no
longer afforded shade.”</p>

<h3>THE ANCIENT GOVERNMENT OF DONGOLAH.</h3>

<p>The Meleks who formerly reigned here were of the Zebain, to
which tribe belong almost all these rulers, including Melek Tumbol,
Melek Nazr e’ Deen, and, in fact, all those from Sennaar to Wady
Halfah, with the exception of the meleks of the Shageea tribe. The
peasants under these chiefs were generally called by the names of
their villages, as those of Dongolah, Dongoloue, Korti, Kortie:
but, since the conquest of the Pasha, they are called Berberene; a
name derived from Berber. Sheakh Muktah<a id=
"FNanchor_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a>,
the most intelligent Arab I have ever met with, being, like several
in Upper Nubia, of the race of cadis,—son after son the chief
cadi,—and, therefore, as pure a source of information as by
tradition can be obtained, informed me that all these peasants are
of the great tribe of Ababja from the Yemen, who came here in the
reign of the fourth caliph after Mahomet, and, finding the country
inhabited by infidels, drove some out, but forced the greater
number to become Mussulmen; and that thus the former inhabitants
became blended with the Arabs, and have not been distinguishable
from them for ages. This is a curious and highly interesting
tradition, proving, historically, almost, what might naturally be
supposed: but I will say more on this subject in my <a href=
"#c20">Historical Appendix.</a></p>

<p>The king of Sennaar held a doubtful and precarious rule over
this country, receiving, according to the character of her
monarchs,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">[201]</span> more or
less tribute. The brave Shageea, alone, never bent the knee to this
king. Two hundred years ago, the Sultan of Sennaar, as some call
him, sent here a detachment of the tribe called the Funge, to which
he belonged, to keep this country under his subjection. A great
many of this race are still here, and they are considered to be
inferior only to the Shageea in courage. They are supposed to be
originally a colony of pagans, from the Bahr el Abiad, but they
have nothing of the appearance of negroes. They ruled over the
country 150 years. Ibrahim was the first, and he was succeeded by
his son Musnet: their united reigns lasted eighty years; they sent
considerable quantities of corn, oxen, and horses to Sennaar. The
descendants of Musnet enjoyed less authority over their subjects,
and the tribute to Sennaar was less regularly paid.</p>

<p>In the year 1782 the Shageea overthrew the government of the
Funge, and reigned peaceably in their stead, under three
meleks,—Melek Shouish, Melek Omar, and Melek Zebair. The account
Burckhardt gives of the treacherous conduct of the Mamelukes
towards Mahmoud el Adalenab is very correct, as far as it goes.
Hadji Mahmoud Sheakh received them with every mark of hospitality,
ministered to all their wants, and was in return barbarously
murdered at Maraka, this very place which is now called El Ourde,
or The Camp. The following particulars of this circumstance, which
I received from the best sources at Dongolah, may not be perhaps
uninteresting to the reader. The Mamelukes arrived at Captot; and
Sheakh Mahmoud, the chief of the Shageea, descended the river on
the opposite side, with a numerous suite. He bade the Mamelukes
welcome to his kingdom, and informed them that, if they wished for
grain, he would furnish them gratis with any quantity they desired.
He told them, also, that whatever they asked for, which he
possessed, should be immediately sent to their camp; and if they
were anxious, as they professed to be, to proceed up the country to
Sennaar, he would supply them with<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_202">[202]</span> provisions for the journey, but if they
chose to remain at Captot Marabat, they were welcome.</p>

<p>Four days afterwards, fifteen Mamelukes, or katshefs, as they
are called, rode up and stopped at the door of the house of the
grand Cadi Mahomet, having learnt that the Sheakh Mahmoud was with
him. The sheakh having come out to salute them, they complained
that they had no grain for their horses. The sheakh sent
immediately for a bag for each horse, and ordered his people to
fill a boat with grain, and convey it to the camp. The Mamelukes
appeared still dissatisfied, and would not dismount whilst their
horses were feeding. But their object was soon accomplished; for,
as the sheakh approached the horse of one of them, to arrange the
bag of corn it was eating, and said, “This is sufficient for your
horses now, and I will send you as much as you desire,” the
Mameluke, who had his carabine on one side of his saddle, without
putting it to his shoulder, pointed it at the sheakh, pulled the
trigger, and wounded him in the breast. The sheakh had scarcely
drawn his sword a few inches from the scabbard, when another fired
a blunderbuss at him, containing six balls, and he fell dead:
another instantly separated his head from his body, and they
afterwards mangled the corpse in a horrid manner with their sabres.
The Cadi Mahomet, who was with him, was killed also by a blow of a
sabre, and a black slave, who was in attendance, met a similar
fate. Ten of the Shageea peasants, his servants, were present at
this murder, but being unarmed they could not attempt to revenge
the death of their chief, and therefore fled.</p>

<p>The Mamelukes remained nine years masters of the country.
Including the servants, they were about 600 in number. Many died
here; the remainder, on the invasion of the Pasha, went to Shendy,
whence they passed to Darfour, and thence to Bornou, Baghermi,
Fezzan, and Tripoli. Adouram Bey, one of their leaders, was killed
near the latter place; but their other leader, Marfou Bey, arrived
in safety at Tripoli.</p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">[203]</span>I received the
greater part of this account from the most authentic source, Sheakh
Muktah, my informant, being the son of the Cadi Mahomet, who
perished with the unfortunate Mahmoud. I ought to mention, as some
palliation of this treacherous breach of hospitality, that it is
said that the Berberene, weary of the Shageea, represented to the
Mamelukes that Sheakh Mahmoud was devising some plan to destroy
them, and therefore they may be said to have murdered him in
self-defence. The object of the Mamelukes was to possess the
country; and they were glad to avail themselves of this feeble
excuse to break the laws of hospitality. Great praise is due to the
few who accomplished the courageous and immense undertaking of
crossing the centre of Africa. Such a journey would immortalise any
European, but who would attempt it? At Darfour, Brown was detained
a prisoner; and in the kingdom of Bornou or Fezzan Hornemann lost
his life.</p>

<hr class="chap">

<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">[204]</span><a id=
"c15"></a>CHAPTER XV.</h2>

<p class="csum">DEPARTURE FROM DONGOLAH. — NUMEROUS VILLAGES. —
ISLAND OF ARGO. — RESIDENCE OF THE MELEK. — ARAB ACCOUNTANTS. —
MELEK TUMBOL. — EXTENT OF HIS TERRITORY. — ARAB MANNERS COMPARED
WITH EUROPEAN. — PHILOSOPHY OF THE ARABS. — THE MELEK’S DINNER. —
MILITARY FORCE. — GARDEN. — VISIT TO THE ANTIQUITIES. — NUMEROUS
VESTIGES OF ANCIENT TOWNS. — COLOSSAL STATUES. — REMAINS OF A LARGE
TEMPLE. — NAME OF SABACO, THE CONQUEROR OF EGYPT. — ENTERTAINMENT
OF AN ARAB SHEAKH. — RICHNESS OF THE ISLAND. — INDIGO. — ETHIOPIAN
FORT. — CATARACT OF TOUMBOS. — MUTILATED COLOSSAL STATUE. —
HOSPITALITY OF AN ARAB SHEAKH. — CHARACTER OF THE INHABITANTS. —
HIPPOPOTAMUS. — ALARMING INTELLIGENCE. — REVOLT OF THE MAHAS. —
DREADFUL CONSEQUENCES. — OUR PROVIDENTIAL ESCAPE. — ARAB STORIES OF
TRAVELLERS.</p>

<p class="nind"><em><span class="sc">April</span></em> 16. We left
Dongolah at three this afternoon, and, after three hours’ march,
stopped at Mecaurat. Our route has been on the skirt of the desert,
about half a mile from the river. I ought to acknowledge here the
civilities which we received from M. Martin, a French apothicaire,
in the employ of the Pasha, who showed us every attention in his
power, allowing to us a part of his house. I must not forget, also,
the kind attentions of his lady, an Abyssinian girl; pretty, and,
at the same time, kind and affectionate. In return for a small
mirror, which I gave her, she presented me with a Sennaar dagger,
with an ebony handle, ornamented with silver. I keep it as a
remembrance of “la bella Maria.”</p>

<p><em>April</em> 17. An hour and a half after starting, we arrived
at a government store-house: adjoining it were several cottages in
ruins. After ten hours’ journey, we arrived at Haffeer. The
following is a list of villages and islands between New Dongolah
and the province of El Mahas:—</p>

<table class="bd-collapse" id="t205">
<tr>
<th><span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">[205]</span>East.</th>
<th>
</th>
<th>
</th>
<th>Islands.</th>
<th>West.</th>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td>Meegasseer</td>
<td class="pad2">Kaptot</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td rowspan="4" class="tdc">Argo Island</td>
<td class="blt width-brace1">
</td>
<td>Gerada</td>
<td class="pad2">Wady Sais</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td class="linel">
</td>
<td>Irse</td>
<td class="pad2">Mecaurat</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td class="linel">
</td>
<td>Binne</td>
<td class="pad2">Binni</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="pad-right2">Affidab</td>
<td class="linel">
</td>
<td>Merouerti</td>
<td class="pad2">Quay</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="linel">
</td>
<td>Boulinarti</td>
<td class="pad2">Muste</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="pad-right2">Bourgos</td>
<td rowspan="3" class="tdc">Badeen.</td>
<td class="linel">
</td>
<td>Attikarha</td>
<td class="pad2">Haffeer</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td class="linel">
</td>
<td>Selinarti</td>
<td class="pad2">Serog</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td class="blb">
</td>
<td>Magassar</td>
<td class="pad2">Coban</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="pad-right2">Ashlian</td>
<td>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td>Dakarti</td>
<td class="pad2">Akkidi</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="pad-right2">Toumbos</td>
<td>
</td>
<td>
</td>
<td>Toumbos</td>
<td class="pad2">Hannek.</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p>In the desert, at a distance, there are isolated hills,
apparently of sandstone. On arriving, we visited the katshef of
Haffeer, who received us very politely; the Mahmoor having
spontaneously furnished me with different letters for the officers
in his government: one for the melek of Argo and the katshef of
Solib, &amp;c.</p>

<p>At my request, the katshef immediately ordered a boat to be
prepared to convey us to the Island of Argo, which I was anxious to
examine, not only on account of its great extent, and the
antiquities it contained, but also because it is the only place in
Upper Nubia under the government of its rightful owner, who alone,
of all the meleks, possesses now a shadow of his ancient
authority.</p>

<p><em>April</em> 18. An hour’s sail, with a fair wind, brought us
to the northern extremity of the island, where the village is
situated in which the melek resides. I went to his castle, which is
fortified with towers (see <a href="#i12">vignette</a>), and
protected on one side by a high wall. It is capable of making some
defence against an insurrection of the natives.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw14">
<figure id="i12"><a href="images/i12.jpg"><img src='images/i12.jpg'
alt=''></a> FORTIFIED HOUSE OF THE MELEK OF TUMBOL.</figure>
</div>

<div class="box-float float-left">
<div class="figfloat">
<figure class="iw23" id="i_p206"><a href=
"images/i_p206.jpg"><img src='images/i_p206.jpg' alt=
'[Illustration]'></a>
</figure>
</div>
</div>

<p>The court we entered first was filled with slaves of the
melek,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">[206]</span> who, I was
informed, including male and female, amounted to upwards of 200,
living either in or around his residence. I ascended from the
court, by ill-constructed steps, similar to, but not quite so good
as, those we have in England for granaries, and entered into a
divan, or audience-room, which had quite the appearance, and was
about the size, of a small English barn. Around a part of the room
was a divan of earth, besides which there were four angoureebs, or
cord divans, covered with carpets and cushions. The roof is of a
slanting form, resembling that of a barn: the wooden logs of which
it is made are blackened by the smoke of the fires. The beams
consist each of two pieces of timber, which are supported and kept
together, at their junction, by a rough pillar that stands in the
centre of the room. To retain this in its place, and bind it to the
beam, there are slips of wood, about one foot long, on each side of
the pillar, under the beam; and on these the ancient Egyptian and
Ethiopian ornament of the globe and feathers is carved. It is more
rudely executed than the ancient, but still it is curious to find
even a vestige of this ornament in a modern Ethiopian
habitation.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">[207]</span> The
doorway, and, indeed, the house altogether, is rudely constructed,
but much stronger and better than Arab houses in general. The
appearance of the outside is superior to that of the interior.</p>

<p>The melek was out when we arrived. The brick divan already
mentioned was partly occupied by his Arab accountants. In almost
every village there is a little school, or rather, I should say,
hut, which is used as such, and there are few of the peasants who
have not made an attempt to learn to read and write; but, to use
their own estimate, there is not one in a hundred whose knowledge
extends beyond the alphabet, and putting together a few words.
There are very few who can write, and none who know any thing of
arithmetic. There are, however, some few of the sheakhs and others,
who, from their learning, are called fakeers, and who are good
Arabic scholars.</p>

<p>When we entered, the melek’s cash-keepers were counting the
money they were receiving from the peasants, and settling their
accounts with the assistance of their strings of beads. In this
room, also, besides the servants, there were several relations,
brothers and nephews, of the melek’s, but not distinguishable by
their dress from the other Arabs.</p>

<p>After we had waited a short time, Melek Tumbol arrived, attended
by about twenty of his people on horseback. The meleks whom I have
hitherto seen have been generally fine tall men, having often an
appearance really noble, and sometimes even majestic. The melek of
Argo, on the contrary, is the most diminutive personage I have seen
in the country: he has a good-tempered countenance, but, on close
examination, something cunning in his expression, and nothing noble
or imposing in his appearance. He was dressed simply as an Arab
sheakh, except that his clothes were of a finer quality. He wore a
long white fine cotton shirt, covering him from the neck to the
feet, with very long and wide sleeves. He had a fine white Souakim
shawl, with the usual red border hanging over his
shoulder.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">[208]</span> His
head-dress consisted of the red cloth cap (tarboush), with one of
the silk Turkish handkerchiefs around it. He received us with the
usual Arab politeness, read the Mahmoor’s letter, and entreated me
to make his house my own. They presented us with coffee and pipes,
in the Turkish fashion, and also with sherbet.</p>

<p>The islands and villages on the eastern side of the Nile are
under his dominion; having belonged, according to his own account,
from time immemorial to his family. He has within his territory,
925 water wheels, besides the land on the banks, which is
cultivated after the inundation, and irrigated by hand labour.</p>

<p>When Ismael Pasha invaded this country, Melek Tumbol immediately
joined his party, and furnished him with provisions for the army.
In consequence of his services on that occasion, the Pasha has
allowed him to remain in the command of his territories, and given
to him the rank and pay of a katshef; and I am told he expects to
be made a mahmoor: he is rich in dromedaries, horses, and slaves,
and allowed to have ten water wheels gratis. His subjects have
heavier taxes to pay than formerly, but they may consider
themselves fortunate in not having inflicted on them the presence
of their rulers. Not one Turk or Arab soldier resides on his
territory.</p>

<p>Before the arrival of the melek, I was amused with the
conversation of his servants. They spoke of his generosity as that
of the greatest prince; stating, that, when a peasant gave him a
sheep or a goat, he immediately presented in return a camel or a
cow; and they added numerous similar instances of generosity, which
with the Arabs is the noblest of virtues.</p>

<p>We told the melek that we wished to see the antiquities on his
island. He expressed his willingness to forward our views; but, as
they were four hours distant, and it was then late, he hoped we
would delay our visit until the morning. I was not
sorry<span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">[209]</span> to be thus
obliged to pass the night with this chief, as I am always glad of
an opportunity of making myself better acquainted with the Arab
customs. There is something so simple and sincere in their
hospitality and manner of living, that, unintellectual as their
society is, I must confess it is not without its charm. The
luxurious divan; the tranquillising pipe; the grateful sherbet and
delicious coffee; and the ease and quiet of Oriental society, are
not trifling enjoyments in this clime, the scorching heat of which
alone inclines man to repose.</p>

<p>This is not a country for brilliant conversation and animated
discussion: the former would be too great mental fatigue; and the
warmth and excitement which the latter sometimes occasions, if not
positively fatal, would certainly be extremely prejudicial to
health, when the thermometer is above 100° in the shade. The Turks
sit on their divans, and the Arabs on their angoureebs, and smoke
the whole of the day. There is not the slightest obligation to
converse; they sit and look at each other, and amuse themselves
with their pipes, thoughts, castle-building, or business.</p>

<p>Unless you keep them occupied with your enquiries, long pauses
often occur in the conversation, as if they were reflecting on what
you had said. One advantage of their society is, that the
conversation flows naturally, for not even the host considers any
effort necessary to keep it up. A man in this country is not
considered stupid because he has the sense not to talk nonsense.
When any of them tell a tale, or make an assertion, however
improbable they may be, politeness, aversion to discussion, and
perhaps indolence, generally prevent the others from disputing, or
making any remarks upon it. When a council is held upon subjects of
importance, and each person is asked for his opinion, greater
harmony could not exist in any assembly: the highest in rank
expresses his sentiments on the subject first, and the others
almost invariably coincide with him.</p>

<p>If a peasant had enough to support himself and family,
even<span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">[210]</span> in a miserable
manner, he would never labour to make himself more comfortable, but
spend his time in the enjoyment of idleness, sleeping and smoking;
he would, as the Berbers have been described as doing, sit for
hours together in the shade, in the same position, without thought
or care, with few ideas, and no wish to obtain more.</p>

<p>Their philosophy, however, is remarkable: scarcely an hour of
their lives is embittered with useless regrets. They are totally
free from that anxiety for the morrow which agitates Europeans, and
prevents the enjoyment of the present good, by their insatiable
thirst after greater happiness. An Arab never distresses himself,
as we too often do, with imaginary evils; he is the child of
destiny, and never torments himself with the apprehension of a
misfortune which, if it is really approaching, he believes it out
of his power to prevent. Niebuhr gives an extraordinary instance of
their philosophy.<a id="FNanchor_44"></a><a href="#Footnote_44"
class="fnanchor">[44]</a></p>

<p>This temperament is certainly more suitable to the climate, than
the feverish anxiety, the angry passions, and restless ambition,
which drive content from the abodes of so many Europeans. It is
true, the Arabs are ignorant of the high intellectual enjoyments of
literary and scientific pursuits, and of the pleasures, luxuries,
and refinements of polished life; yet few, perhaps, will deny, that
the man who is contented under any circumstances, who immediately
becomes resigned to the caprices of fortune, who scarcely
knows<span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">[211]</span> the meaning
of the words worldly care, and is unagitated by any regret for past
pleasures, or aching desire to obtain additional enjoyments, is
possessed of a certain degree of practical, and not useless,
philosophy.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw7">
<figure id="pl33">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 33.</p>
<a href="images/pl33.jpg"><img src='images/pl33.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by W. Walton, from a Drawing by
G. A. Hoskins Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">COLOSSAL STATUE IN THE ISLAND OF ARGO.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>At twelve o’clock dinner was served up; and as the style was
different from any I had hitherto seen, and is that usual with the
kings of this country, a short description may not be
uninteresting. Two mats were laid on the floor, on which we were
invited to seat ourselves: they were rather hard, and not
excessively clean. The dinner was served in six large wooden bowls,
and the bread, which is made into thin light cakes, in elegant
baskets of coloured straw, manufactured in Sennaar. The dinner
consisted of mutton, fowls, bamia (Hibiscus esculentus), and an
excellent omelet in a smaller dish, prepared expressly for myself
by the wives of the melek. Raw onions, which are considered
particularly healthy in this climate, and which, being much milder
than ours, are not unpalatable, particularly after they have been
soaked in water, were presented to each of us. I dined on the
omelet, the other dishes being liquid, and so exceedingly hot, that
I burnt my fingers in attempting to taste them.</p>

<p>The melek sat down with us, but did not eat much; he dines
always in his harem. Of the latter I should say something <em>en
passant</em>. I was informed elsewhere that he has had twenty-one,
or, as some said, thirty-two, wives, all daughters or relations of
other meleks. He is said now to have only three. He has no sons,
but two beautiful daughters, unmarried, who, however, already take
a share in the government. My servant saw one of them on an
adjoining small island, where she resides with her slaves, and
sends the produce to her father.</p>

<p>After we had dined, and quitted the mats, my servants and his
cash-keepers sat down; and what they left was cleared by the
servants of the melek. After washing, we had sherbet, coffee, and
pipes. The melek then went to sleep, according to the Arab
and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">[212]</span> Turkish custom.
In the afternoon we walked about the place, and saw the ruins of
the ancient village. The inhabitants of this island suffered
severely from the inroads of the Shageea, with whom they were
almost always at war. The Melek of Argo was able to collect a force
of 700 men, many of them armed with coats of mail, of German
manufacture. I wished to see these; but he said they were all in
the possession of the Pasha of Egypt. This may be true of some of
them; but, no doubt, the greater part he had secreted, aware that
the day may arrive when he may require them.</p>

<p>The present melek has a small plantation of vines and
pomegranates, which flourish luxuriantly in this country. He
procured the plants a few years ago from Egypt; and seems to be
prouder of his little garden than of any thing else he possesses.
We had a supper in the same style as the dinner; and our beds were
the angoureebs on which we had been sitting all the day, with a
carpet for a mattress, and no other covering than our cloaks.</p>

<p><em>Island of Argo.—April</em> 18. The melek, perceiving my
impatience to visit the antiquities, provided my artist and myself
with excellent horses, while my dragoman, and our guide, his
nephew, accompanied us on dromedaries. We rode through the centre
of the island, which is entirely uncultivated, but planted with
acacias, like a shrubbery. The soil is capable of cultivation; and
only a more extensive knowledge of hydraulics appears required to
enable the people to irrigate and cultivate the whole of the
island.</p>

<p>We set out at five o’clock, and, after two hours’ ride (about
ten miles), reached the site of a small town or village, with
merely a few bricks remaining. An hour afterwards we arrived at a
similar place, and in ten minutes more at a third. Twenty minutes
from the latter, being three hours and a half from the time that we
started, we arrived at the antiquities which were the object of our
excursion. The distance, from the rate we travelled, may be about
eighteen miles.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
<figure id="pl34">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 34.</p>
<a href="images/pl34.jpg"><img src='images/pl34.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by W. Walton, from a Drawing by
G. A. Hoskins Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">COLOSSAL STATUE IN THE ISLAND OF ARGO.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">[213]</span>The antiquities
amply repaid us for the trouble of visiting them. They consist
chiefly of two colossal statues of grey granite, now lying on the
ground. The faces are Egyptian, but the sculpture is Ethiopian; not
in a very good style, the forms being extremely bulky and clumsy.
The length, including the pedestal, which is 2 feet 10 inches, is
23 feet. One statue has lost part of its arms; the other is broken
into two pieces, but the features are less injured. They have never
been quite finished; which is, doubtless the reason that neither is
ornamented with hieroglyphics. The figures are placed in the usual
standing position of Egyptian statues, one foot advanced before the
other. The one that is broken has on the left foot a small statue.
(See my picturesque views and architectural restoration, Plates
<a href="#pl33">XXXIII.,</a> <a href="#pl34">XXXIV.,</a> and
<a href="#pl35">XXXV.</a>) The ornaments around their necks and
ankles are curious, and quite Ethiopian. The wreath around the
head-dress of one of them is that of a conqueror; which I conceive
to afford a strong ground for conjecturing that these statues were
erected in commemoration of the conquest of Egypt: but I am led to
this conclusion principally from the circumstance of the only name
in hieroglyphics now remaining here being that of Sabaco, the first
king of the Ethiopian dynasty who conquered and reigned over
Egypt.</p>

<p>The circumstance of the statues not being finished, may be
accounted for by the brief duration, at that period, of the
Ethiopian dominion over this part of the country. The statues
erected to celebrate the triumph of their arms in Egypt would
naturally be thrown down by the Egyptian invaders. Psammitichus,
the first king of the 26th dynasty, who reigned immediately after
the Ethiopians, and whose territory, we know, from the Greek
inscription at Abou Simbel, certainly extended as far as the second
cataract, might have conquered this part of Ethiopia, and thrown
down the statues of a king naturally so hateful to the
Egyptians.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">[214]</span> They
seem, like the two celebrated statues at Thebes, to have ornamented
the entrance of a temple, for behind them is a considerable space
covered with sandstone, all in small pieces, but evidently the
ruins of a large temple.</p>

<p>Forty paces behind these colossals is a beautiful fragment of a
small seated statue, without a head, and half buried in the ruins:
the name of Sabaco is engraved on it in hieroglyphics; and 43 paces
behind the latter is a group of six small monkeys, very much
mutilated, and almost buried in the ground. The ruins of the temple
extend 20 paces farther. It may have been perhaps from 250 to 300
feet long; but, profiting by the softness of the sandstone, the
stones seem to have been studiously broken into the smallest
fragments. There are, unfortunately, no hieroglyphics, except the
name of Sabaco, before mentioned, remaining either on the statues
or any of the stones; and, from the degree in which the edifice is
destroyed, I did not conceive that, at all events, much advantage
would be derived from excavation.</p>

<p>The name of this town is unknown; and, though the temple appears
to have been considerable, the remains afford no ground to suppose
that the place was of great importance. There is every reason to
believe, however, that the Island of Argo was formerly much more
flourishing than now. The different remains of ancient towns in the
interior, now surrounded merely with acacia groves and uncultivated
plains, prove the cultivation, at that time, to have been much more
extended, and the island to have contained not only better built
cities, but also a civilised population acquainted with the
arts.</p>

<p>A sheakh, from a village at a short distance from the ruins,
sent us some excellent bread and milk; and, when our work was
finished, we went to his house, and reposed on his
angoureebs,—luxuries which every peasant possesses: we also partook
of some dates, bouza, and palm wine; the latter is like the honey
of dates<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">[215]</span> only more
diluted with water. Strabo speaks of the Ethiopian beverage made of
honey and barley; and also adds, that the only fruit in that
country are a few dates in the royal gardens. After requiting the
sheakh for his attention, we returned by the bank of the river to
Melek Tumbol’s house.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw9">
<figure id="pl35">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 35.</p>
<a href="images/pl35.jpg"><img src='images/pl35.jpg' alt=''></a>
<p class="cp3">RESTORATION OF THE TWO COLOSSAL STATUES IN THE
ISLAND OF ARGO.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The country was rich and beautiful, and I observed a great
quantity of indigo. In the melek’s territory, there are 500
water-wheels employed in the cultivation of this plant. It requires
much water, each wheel being sufficient to irrigate on an average
only three quarters of a feddan of land.</p>

<p><em>April</em> 19. We dined and slept last night with the melek,
and left him this morning soon after sunrise. We gave a backsheesh
(present) of money to his servants, and, in return for his
attention, I gave him the amber mouth-piece of my pipe. We returned
in his boat to Haffeer; but as it was navigated by only two
mariners, and sailed ill, I there procured another from the katshef
to visit the granite quarries near the village of Toumbos.</p>

<p>On the east side, almost directly opposite to Haffeer, there is
a brick ruin, half an hour’s walk from the river. I perceived, at a
distance, that it was of no importance; but recollecting that
Cailliaud mentioned it in his work as resembling the towers
represented in the sculptures at Thebes, I visited it on foot, for
want of any conveyance, and suffered severely from the scorching,
almost vertical, mid-day sun. The ruin being situated in the
desert, my feet, unprotected with stockings, which I have long
since discarded, were dreadfully burnt by the hot soft sand, in
which we sank, at every step, considerably above the shoes. This
ruin has not the slightest resemblance to the towers in the
sculpture at Thebes. It has been apparently for ages so much
decayed, as scarcely to present any other form than that of a mere
mass of brickwork; but I conceive it to be Ethiopian, and very
ancient. It is difficult to imagine what has been its exact form
(see <a href="#i13">vignette</a>);<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_216">[216]</span> but it has evidently not resembled, in any
respect, the elegant fortresses represented on the walls of Thebes.
The entrance into it, as will be seen by the view, is partly
remaining. The name of the village near it is Korma.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw15">
<figure id="i13"><a href="images/i13.jpg"><img src='images/i13.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">RUIN OF AN ETHIOPIAN FORT.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>We were two hours in descending the river to Toumbos.
Immediately before arriving, we passed the first of the cataracts
of Hennek. The country (see <a href="#i14">vignette</a>) is very
pleasing, flat, not romantic or picturesque, like the scenery
between Philæ and Assuan; but the luxuriance of the vegetation on
the islands, the acacias in the foreground, the picturesque groups
of palm trees, the masses of rock impeding the current, and varying
the tint of the river by the white surges they create, and, in the
distance, the yellow sands, formed altogether a soft and lovely
landscape. The rocks of the third cataract, at least here, are of
grey granite.</p>

<p>A very short distance from the river, on a granite rock,
called<span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">[217]</span> Hadjer el
Dehab, or the Golden Stone, is a large historical tablet of
hieroglyphics, with the common Egyptian ornament above it, of the
globe, serpents, and wings. The hieroglyphics have been well
executed, but are now so defaced that few of them are
distinguishable. I copied a small portion of it containing the name
of Thothmes I.; and in another small tablet adjoining, I observed
the prænomen of Amunoph III.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw15">
<figure id="i14"><a href="images/i14.jpg"><img src='images/i14.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">CATARACT OF HENNEK.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>From the similarity of this granite, I think it evident that the
statues of Argo have been taken from these quarries. There is here
also another statue, twelve feet in length, much injured, but in a
tolerably good style of sculpture (see <a href="#i15">vignette,</a>
page 218). The head has been destroyed, perhaps by some accident in
separating it from the rock, or rather in conveying it to its
destination.</p>

<p>The katshef of Haffeer, through some misunderstanding, I
suppose, had informed me that Toumbos was distant only half an
hour’s or an hour’s sail. We, therefore, brought with us neither
provisions, beds, nor coverings. On arriving at Toumbos,
the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">[218]</span> sheakh invited
us to pass the night with him. By the time we had finished our
drawings and examination of the quarries, it was almost night, and,
the wind having subsided, it was impossible to cross the cataract.
We, therefore, gladly accepted his hospitality, having had nothing
to eat since morning but grain, heated a little over the fire, with
salt. The Arabs are fond of grain prepared in this manner; and,
mixed with a few dates, it is not disagreeable.</p>

<p>The sheakh first conducted us into a ruined house, now used as a
mosque, rather miserable-looking, close to the river, and therefore
cold, especially for us, who had no covering. The heat of the day
being so excessive, the fresh air of the night, and particularly of
the morning, feels extremely chill. I complained of this
accommodation, at which he seemed vexed, and asked my servant if we
wished to sleep in his harem. Our complaint, however, procured us a
comfortable room in his own house, good angoureebs, covered with
mats and skins to lie on, a cheerful wood fire, and a good supper
of excellent bread and milk, with a large bowl of meat. We had
therefore no reason to complain of the sheakh’s hospitality.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw15">
<figure id="i15"><a href="images/i15.jpg"><img src='images/i15.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">COLOSSAL STATUE IN THE QUARRIES OF TOUMBOS.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">[219]</span><em>April</em>
20. At sunrise, after remunerating the sheakh for his attentions
with a present of money, which I conceived would be the most
acceptable that could be offered, we profited by a slight breeze,
and, with the assistance of three of the peasants, passed the
cataract. The sheakh gave me the not uncommon salutation at parting
of “Minsh Allah rasak taip!”—“May God preserve your head from
harm!” in a tone which appeared to me curious at the time, but
which, I conceived, might allude to the passing of the cataract;
though, as will soon be seen, before the setting of the sun, I
understood his meaning. Soon afterwards, being becalmed, we pressed
into our service a dozen peasants, who dragged us along with a
cord.</p>

<p>This morning, and also yesterday, we saw on an island of sand,
near Haffeer, a large hippopotamus. This is the only one that now
remains in this part of the river, or so far to the northward.
Here, too, it is said that this animal flies from the approach of
man, and even from the boats. Each time that we approached the
isle, it darted into the water. There were, a short time ago,
several in this part of the river; but Melek Tumbol told me that he
and his people had destroyed all of them, with the exception of
this one, which had always eluded their pursuit. We did not arrive
at Haffeer until one in the afternoon, half-famished, having had
nothing for breakfast but a small handful of grain.</p>

<p>We received intelligence there which threw us into the greatest
consternation. The province of Mahas, which commences at Hannek,
one hour’s journey north from this place, and extends as far as
Sukkot, has broken out into insurrection. The dreadful consequences
of this event, cutting off completely my return to Egypt and
Europe, and making me a prisoner Heaven knows how long; also the
uncertainty of how widely the flame may spread, and what may be the
result, caused me the greatest anxiety. I am informed there are
already 300 insurgents collected, and that their number increases
hourly.</p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">[220]</span>The reason
ascribed for this revolt is, that the government refused to accept
in part payment of their taxes the linen cloths made in the
country. The owners of each water-wheel, besides grain to the
amount of five dollars, pay also fifteen in cash: the difficulty of
realising this sum may be easily conceived in a country where there
are no markets, little or no commerce, and that generally carried
on by exchange. The katshef of Haffeer, on hearing, this morning,
that they had murdered a kaimacam (officer), and three soldiers,
within two hours’ march of his residence, hastened to the spot with
about thirty soldiers, being all the forces he could muster. The
insurgents had retired upon an island. He buried the three men the
Mahas had killed, and brought away the other, whom they had
severely wounded in various places, and left as dead. The katshef
informed me, that, as he could not desert his post, he intended to
shut himself up in the indigo manufactory, which was partly
fortified. I immediately ordered my camels to be loaded for our
return to Ourde, or New Dongolah, for it is now impossible to
proceed on our journey north.</p>

<p>That dress which has hitherto been our protection, and procured
us every where respect, now makes us a mark for the attack of the
insurgents. They would never suppose that any friend of theirs
would wear the costume of their oppressors. In our nizam dresses we
should certainly be taken for Turks, and perhaps murdered in a
summary manner. We have every reason to thank Providence that we
were detained a day at Argo, otherwise our fate was inevitable, for
we should have been exactly in the centre of the revolt at the very
moment when it broke out. In these countries, where Europeans are
almost unknown, except the few who, being in the service of the
Pasha, are considered as Turks, the natives only distinguish two
classes,—their own countrymen, and the white men, their tyrants and
oppressors. We could not have expected to be spared, even had they
recognised us as travellers:<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_221">[221]</span> for they would have murdered us for the
treasures which they imagine we find among the ruins.</p>

<p>It were endless to enumerate the ridiculous stories which the
Arabs relate of these fancied discoveries. I will, however, mention
one or two, as characteristic. On our return from the colossal
statues in the Island of Argo, to the house of Melek Tumbol, one of
his cash-keepers asked me if we had found any gold; and he stated
as a fact to a crowd of Arabs in the room (swearing by his beard
and the prophet), that at a ruin called Dendera, in Egypt, he
accompanied two Englishmen, who obtained an immense treasure. The
devil refused it until they should give him a water melon, to allay
his thirst. The Englishman then sent him all the way to Kennah for
the melon, and that as soon as the devil smelt the fine odour of
the fruit, gold came down like rain. This the man declared he had
seen with his own eyes, and all the Arabs implicitly believed
him.</p>

<p>At Gibel el Birkel, the natives conceived that my excavations
were made only to find gold; and they supposed me less fortunate,
or less clever, than the last European, a noble Lord, who visited
those ruins, who was stated to have found such a quantity, in the
form of a granite lion, that he was obliged to have a boat from
Dongolah to carry it down to Egypt.</p>

<hr class="chap">

<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">[222]</span><a id=
"c16"></a>CHAPTER XVI.</h2>

<p class="csum">RETURN TO NEW DONGOLAH. — THE GOVERNOR. — HIS
INDECISION. — GENERAL ALARM. — INTERVIEW WITH THE GOVERNOR. — HIS
DIFFICULT SITUATION AND WANT OF ENERGY. — INCREASE OF THE
INSURGENTS. — RETREAT OF THE KATSHEF OF HAFFEER. — TROOPS MARCHED
OUT AGAINST THE INSURGENTS. — FEARS ABOUT THE RESULT. — THEIR ARMY.
— THE BATTLE. — EFFECTS OF THE REVOLT. — ROADS IMPASSABLE. — RETURN
OF THE EXPEDITION. — TURKISH AND ARAB EVOLUTIONS. — HASSANYEH. —
FUNGE. — CURIOUS ASSEMBLAGE. — <em>LULULOO</em> OF THE WOMEN. —
TURKISH SYSTEM OF GOVERNMENT IN THE PROVINCES, AND PRESENT STATE OF
THE PEASANTRY AND ARABS OF THE DESERT ABOVE WADY HALFAH.</p>

<p class="nind"><em><span class="sc">El Ourde</span>, or New
Dongolah.—April</em> 21. Immediately on my arrival, I paid a visit
to the governor, but was not received; for, notwithstanding the
general alarm which exists on account of the insurrection, he could
not deny himself his mid-day nap. In the evening I was more
successful. The more I see of this man, the more I feel alarmed
about the length of time I may be detained, and what may be the
result of this unfortunate affair, for I perceive clearly he is
incapable of taking any resolution. He complained of not having
force sufficient. I advised him to adopt the common Turkish system
of offering a general pardon and lighter taxes, or muster all his
forces, and crush, at once, a movement which, in a country like
this, was likely to spread so rapidly.</p>

<p><em>April</em> 29. A week passed without any plan being
determined upon. I had not chosen to renew my advice, perceiving
what I had already given to be fruitless. The greatest panic
existed in the town. Some proposed to fly up the country; others,
to reach Egypt by crossing the desert by Selemeh. We had, every
day, some new and false rumour, that other districts had revolted,
and that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">[223]</span> the whole
valley of the Nile, from Wady Halfah to the extremity of the
Pasha’s dominions, was on the point of throwing off the yoke of
their oppressors. Sometimes the insurgents were reported to be
within an hour’s march of the town, preparing to attack it. Muskets
were distributed, the cannons prepared, and we were all to fight
for our lives. At length, the officers, who are a despicable set,
became refractory: some refused to march, while others were anxious
to commence operations. The governor was undecided; some officers
of the divan advised one course, and some another; and, while he
vacillated between them, day passed after day, without any plan
being adopted.</p>

<p>Foreseeing the consequences of this irresolution, while
discontent was spreading even among the government troops, and the
insurgents daily increasing, I determined to make one effort more
to rouse him from his lethargy, and persuade him to adopt some
vigorous measure. I, therefore, visited him, accompanied by a Greek
dragoman, with whom the governor, being a Turk from the Morea,
could converse in the Romaic without any other person in the divan
understanding our discourse. I thus obtained the best chance of my
advice being followed, by sparing his <em>amour propre</em>, of
which he had a considerable stock.</p>

<p>I apologised for the liberty I was taking; conscious that, as a
stranger, I had no right to interfere with his administration; but
that my fate was linked with his, as the success of my own plans
depended on his being able to restore order and tranquillity to the
country. In return, too, for his attentions, I was anxious, if
possible, to be of service to him; I regretted his present
difficult situation, particularly as I saw him surrounded by men
guided more by their passions than by reason. To my surprise, he
raised up his head, which generally hangs over his knees, almost
touching them, and expressed his willingness to listen to, and
follow, my counsel. Tormented as he has been, for several days,
with the insolent dictation of his officers, each insisting on
some<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">[224]</span> wild scheme of
his own, he turned a ready ear to my suggestions, which were, of
course, disinterested. Each officer, on the contrary, hoped, if his
plan should be adopted, and be successful, that he might have the
merit of the victory, and obtain, in consequence, a present from
the Pasha.</p>

<p>I urged the governor to send to some of the sheakhs up the Nile,
who are strongly attached to the government, and have no affection
for the Mahas, to assemble their forces; and also to Melek Tumbol,
who is said to have a force of 500 men, while the former could
muster 600 men, and both would be quite willing to join the
government. The governor had imprudently ordered the soldiers
scattered in the different villages to assemble, under the katshefs
and kaimacams, in bands of fifty. This had caused great
dissatisfaction, by showing that he distrusted the fidelity of the
peasants; and the measure was useless, except in affording a
security for the lives of the soldiers, which, after all, was only
apparent; for bands of fifty were too small to keep extensive
districts in subjection, or protect themselves against the united
attacks of the peasantry. I urged the governor to send for these
troops to replace the garrison here, which he might thus be enabled
to send out against the revolters. He consented to this proposition
very reluctantly.</p>

<p>To my surprise, he informed me that he had sent no courier to
Cairo. He had despatched one to Khartoun, in the hopes of procuring
a reinforcement from that district. I did not think it probable
that the government there would risk its security by sending part
of their force to Dongolah: but it was great neglect not to inform
all the governors around of the revolt, that they might guard
against any attempts within their own territories; particularly as
it is rumoured, though, probably, without foundation, that this is
only the first explosion of a grand conspiracy, formed by the
people, throughout Upper Nubia, to avail themselves of the
present<span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">[225]</span>
opportunity, whilst the Pasha is engaged with the war in Syria, to
throw off his yoke.</p>

<p>The number of soldiers here at present is 200, part of a
regiment of invalids sent to this province, being of no use at
Cairo; the remainder of the regiment is scattered, as I have said,
in small parties, about the province. As the Arab and Turkish
merchants in the bazaar are more than sufficient to protect the
citadel, and their fidelity may be relied upon, their lives and
property being at stake, I urged the governor to send off the
troops in the garrison without delay; and he promised that he would
do so as soon as the necessary arrangements could be made. I
advised him also to mount guards on the citadel, to dispel the
panic which existed, and prevent the possibility of the place being
surprised.</p>

<p><em>April</em> 30. The katshef of Haffeer arrived, without
having received permission from the governor to abandon his post,
but conceiving it impossible, with only 50 men, to protect the
indigo house, which is but partially fortified, against the
threatened attack of the insurgents. He stated the force of the
latter to be 1500 men; and a courier arrived last night, with the
intelligence, that yesterday more soldiers were killed, and that
another party of fifty only escaped through the means of an Arab
sheakh, abandoning their baggage, and, <em>mirabile dictu</em> for
Turks, also their pipes!</p>

<p><em>May</em> 1. The troops, 150 in number (leaving 50 in the
citadel), marched out this morning against the Mahas. They were
accompanied by 120 volunteers, some of them mounted. The Hassanyeh
and Funge, 500 strong, and Melek Tumbol on the opposite bank, with
500 more, are waiting to join them. They took with them one piece
of cannon, an eight-pounder, on which they rested their chief hopes
of success. The review of these warriors caused a great sensation
in this little capital. The governor had distributed muskets and
ammunition to all the merchants who joined the expedition, and also
to those who remained<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_226">[226]</span> in garrison. Each man was trying his weapon
by firing it off. The women were weeping, and demonstrating their
grief, according to the custom of the country, by a peculiar
<em>lululoo</em>, caused by drawing their breath, and shaking their
tongues between their lips, at the same time waving their hands, in
sign of wishes for their husbands’ success.</p>

<p>Considering how this expedition was composed, I was almost
doubtful of its success. The soldiers and officers were the refuse
of the Pasha’s army; the merchants a confused mass; the commander
notorious for cowardice; the cannon in the hands of men not
renowned for their skill in engineering; and it seemed doubtful
whether friendship to the Turks, the rancour of ancient feuds, or
even the hope of plunder, be sufficient motives to induce the
Hassanyeh Arabs and Melek Tumbol’s forces to act against their
neighbours, fighting for their liberty, to free themselves from a
grievous and intolerable yoke, and who had placed their all upon
the die,—death or victory. The governor himself reviewed the troops
outside the walls, and gave his last directions. How ridiculous
this expedition would have appeared in Europe! It reminded me of
the army of Bombastes Furioso; and the Mahmoor might have dismissed
them with the same words,—</p>

<div class="linegrp-container">
<div class="linegrp">
<div class="group">
<div class="line indent0">“Begone, brave soldiers, don’t kick up a
row!”</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>

<p><em>May</em> 2 and 3. were spent in great anxiety about the
result of the expedition. Rumours were spread that the government
troops were defeated, and that the Mahas were coming to attack the
citadel.</p>

<p><em>May</em> 4. This morning news arrived of the engagement, and
that the Pasha’s troops had gained the victory. On the 10th, they
and the merchants returned, and I received from some sensible
Turkish merchants, on whose authority I could depend, the following
account of the battle. The insurgents, 1300 strong, at three
o’clock in the afternoon advanced to attack the government
forces,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">[227]</span> encamped a
little below Hannek. Their chief, Melek Backeet, sent round 300 of
his men to intercept the enemy’s retreat; for it never occurred to
the brave warriors of Mahas that they could possibly be defeated.
If they had possessed any degree of judgment, or been less
confident, and had made the attack during the night, they would
probably have succeeded; for at that time no sentinels or guards
were established, and the greatest confusion reigned in the Turkish
camp.</p>

<p>About 150 of the Mahas had guns, but very bad ones, mostly
matchlocks, and they were very ill supplied with ammunition. They
were variously armed; some with lances, shields, German swords (see
various plates of costumes); while others had only swords made of
the acacia wood, about four feet long, rounded at one end for the
hand, the rest cut thin, flat, and sharpened at both sides,—a heavy
but formidable weapon in the hands of an athletic Arab. Others had
staves only. Sentences in Arabic were written by the fakeers, on
the wooden swords and staves; on some of them lines from the Koran:
the most common were,—“May God give me force to destroy my
enemies!” “May my foes tremble before me!” “May the acacia sword be
as the sharp steel in my hand!” I have seen a staff similarly
shaped in the museum at Berlin, with hieroglyphics on it; the
latter I could not examine, as it was on a shelf, at too great a
distance to be read.</p>

<p>Twelve Turks on horseback accompanied the troops; to whom, with
the Arab merchants (Jelabs), and about 500 Hassanyeh, must be
ascribed the honour of the victory. Melek Tumbol’s Arabs were on
the opposite side of the river, and the soldiers of the government
were so placed by their skilful commander, behind their own
friends, that they could not fire a single shot. The general,
usually a great talker, became miraculously silent when the
engagement commenced; and, knowing the value of his person, very
prudently placed it out of danger. The artillerymen fired the
cannon sixty-two times, only wounding one man: but, to
give<span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">[228]</span> them their
due, I was informed by several, that the victory was chiefly gained
by the noise they made.</p>

<p>To the astonishment of the brave Mahas, the government forces,
or rather the merchants, undeterred by their cries of “Cip! cap!”
and dancing round and round (see view of the Shageea fighting,
<a href="#pl38">Plate XXXVIII.</a>), returned the shaking of their
spears with a good discharge of musketry, while the Hassanyeh made
a sharp attack. An engagement of a few minutes ended in the
unfortunate Mahas flying to the river. Numbers were shot sitting on
the rocks and islands, and others in crossing the stream:
altogether about 120 perished.</p>

<p>The regular troops, not having fired a ball during the
engagement, discharged their muskets in the air to celebrate
<em>their</em> victory; and the brave commander, now quite
loquacious, gratified his thirst for blood by the massacre of two
unfortunate young prisoners, who fell into his hands. Melek
Backeet, the chief of the Mahas, is said to be concealed in the
country, but that feudal attachment to their chief, which is so
strong among all the Arabs, will secure him against being
discovered.</p>

<p>A general pardon having been proclaimed, according to the usual
Turkish system, until the government feels itself sufficiently
strong to punish the delinquents, several of the inferior sheaks
have accepted the amnesty offered by the governor, and the peasants
are returning to their occupations. Many of the water-wheels are
injured, and a great number of the working oxen killed by the
Mahas. The loss to the government cannot, it is said, be less than
5000<em>l.</em></p>

<p>My chief apprehension now is, that the roads will be infested by
the most desperate of the Mahas, acting as brigands; among others,
by their chief: we are therefore still detained here until this man
is taken, or has left the country, and tranquillity is entirely
restored. Several caravans of merchants are likewise deterred from
going down to Egypt. They thus incur a large expense,
having<span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">[229]</span> to maintain
a number of slaves; but they seem greatly afraid of encountering
the journey. I proposed forming a great caravan, but they coolly
replied, that they should wait until the full moon, and, in the
mean time, see whether I passed safely.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw8">
<figure id="pl38">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 38.</p>
<a href="images/pl38.jpg"><img src='images/pl38.jpg' alt=''></a>
<p class="cp1">SHAGEEA FIGHTING.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>On stone by Walton from a Drawing by L.
Bandoni.</em><br>
<em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p><em>May</em> 11. The return of the expedition was celebrated
with great rejoicings. The Mahmoor, shortly after sunrise, reviewed
about 300 troops, who have arrived, within these few days, from
Handek, Meroueh, and other parts of the province; he marched out
with these, and joined the armament encamped at a short distance
from the walls, and all together then entered the citadel, in
procession. The governor, at the head of the regular troops, who
kept up a continual fire, went foremost, followed by the Turks and
sheakhs on horseback, going through their evolutions, which
consisted in a kind of mock battle, where they certainly displayed
admirable horsemanship; sometimes galloping at full speed, suddenly
halting, and wheeling round and round, the Turks firing their
pistols, and the sheakhs brandishing their lances. Some of the
meleks and sheakhs made a very picturesque appearance, being well
mounted, with their peculiar costumes, lances, swords, and shields,
the latter of the hide of the hippopotamus. After these came the
Jelabs, or merchants of the bazaar, making liberal use of the
muskets and ammunition given to them by the governor. Then followed
a great number of the Hassanyeh, and some few of the Shageea Arabs,
mounted on camels, dromedaries, or horses, and some on foot, going
through their evolutions as in battle, brandishing their spears,
leaping in the air, first on one leg, then on the other, at the
same time turning round and shouting their war cry, “Cip! cap!” and
beating their shields with their spears. Lastly came a tribe,
formerly mentioned, the Funge,—fine athletic men, said to be very
brave. They wear, like the others, their garments in the antique
style, and their heads, as is the custom of the Arabs of the
desert, uncovered, but protected from the sun by bushy tresses,
reaching almost to the shoulders.</p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">[230]</span>The
<em>coup-d’œil</em> was rendered particularly striking, by the
variety of costumes, complexions, and arms, and the singularity of
the evolutions. We saw in one field the regular troops, Fellahs
from Egypt, marching and firing in the European manner; the natives
of the Caucasus, the Turks, exhibiting their more dashing Mameluke
exercise; but neither of them attracted half so much my attention
as the wild extraordinary manœuvres of the dark peasants of the
country and the Arabs of the desert. I should not forget, also, the
cries of the women. The house-tops, and the walls of the citadel,
were covered with them, cackling (I think that the most appropriate
term) a welcome to their husbands in the same curious manner I have
before described; but on this occasion the note was different,
being expressive of joy at their return.</p>

<p>The governor, afraid of the Pasha’s censuring, and, perhaps,
dismissing him, on account of this affair, pays, from his own
purse, the expense of the expedition; and he has made a present of
100 piastres to each Turk, 50 to each melek, 30 to each sheakh, of
10 to each peasant and merchant. He pays for the gunpowder also,—no
trifle, since, beside what was consumed in the action, they have
been firing ever since, to indulge their fondness for the report of
a gun, under the plea of celebrating the governor’s triumph. The
day is to be devoted to feasting and rejoicing. Those who can
afford it have killed cows, others sheep. The mallums, the Coptic
treasurers and writers of the government, are now very
conspicuously exhibiting their joy. They have been terribly alarmed
during this affair; conceiving, perhaps with some reason, that,
besides their office, and having the character of being
individually rich, their obnoxious titles of Christian dogs and
tax-gatherers would have ensured to them, had the citadel been
taken, being the first to have their throats cut.</p>

<p>In relating the causes of this insurrection, I shall only be
giving a sketch of the Turkish system of governing the provinces,
which has rarely, if ever, been sufficiently elucidated. The
government<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">[231]</span> of the
pashas in Egypt is essentially military. The officers all of whom
(except sometimes the baractars) are Turks, decide every question
connected with the revenues, and often interfere, in other affairs,
with the decisions of the cadis. The system of the government is to
extort from the peasant the utmost possible amount of tax, leaving
him only what they consider, or pretend to consider, a sufficient
subsistence, but it is usually a most miserable one.</p>

<p>I will give a more detailed account of the system in Egypt, at a
future opportunity, and shall here only say a few words respecting
that unfortunate country. If the peasants did not actually steal
from their own fields, in some places, they could not exist.
Although they bury their grain under ground, and by various other
methods deceive their oppressors, numbers perish from the want of
sufficient nourishment and clothing. I have seen them, in winter,
assembled in a corner, round a miserable fire, shivering with cold
and hunger. In the most favoured clime under heaven, and the most
productive country on the face of the earth, a vast proportion of
the peasants may be said barely to exist upon food more calculated
for cattle than for human beings, and, bad as it is, they have
rarely enough.</p>

<p>The Pasha has power sufficient to hold them in subjection, and
by his extortions fills his coffers; but necessity alone induces
them to submit. He not only imposes most enormous taxes upon every
article of produce, but obliges them to cultivate what he chooses,
and take the price he offers for the produce. He is the only
purchaser of the grain, cotton, and indigo, and of the gum of
Kordofan, ostrich feathers, and other articles. Slaves are almost
the only commodity the merchants now are allowed to take in
exchange for the manufactures they carry to Sennaar and Kordofan:
even wild animals of the desert, as the giraffe, are a monopoly of
the government.</p>

<p>The Pasha is the great landlord of this immense district: the
people are his slaves. His revenues are derived not only from
the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">[232]</span> regular taxes,
but from his profits as a merchant, which are enormous, in
consequence of the low rate at which he pays the peasants for their
produce, compared with that at which he sells it again to the
Europeans. It is true that this source of gain is greatly
diminished by the roguery of the different officers through whose
hands it passes. From the highest to the lowest there is seldom any
exception,—mahmoors, nazrs, katshefs, kaimacams, and soldiers, all
concur in diminishing the amount, and, in particular, the mallums,
or Coptic accountants. The latter not only cheat the ignorant
Turks, who generally cannot read their accounts, but often trade
with the money of the treasury, and incur losses which they are
unable to repay. A number, on this account, are always immured in
the prisons of the Pasha.</p>

<p>The peasants in Upper Nubia are free from these pecuniary
distresses, and are comparatively happy. It is very true, that,
instead of paying only one dollar in money, two pieces of linen
cloth, and a sheep, thirty piastres, which was all they paid their
ancient meleks, they are now obliged to pay fifteen dollars in
cash, and five in grain; in all, three hundred piastres: ten times
as much as they paid formerly. Instead of sleeping, as was their
custom, the greater part of the day, they are now obliged to work:
but the man who is at all industrious may earn an ample sufficiency
to afford food and dress such as he has been accustomed to. The
following calculation will show more precisely their present
condition.</p>

<p>Each sakkea, or Persian wheel, is sufficient to water three
quarters of a feddan of land, planted with indigo, and each feddan
produces a hundred cantars of the herb, and sometimes more, when
carefully irrigated: being seventy-five cantars for the extent of
land which one wheel will water. The government pay the peasants
12½ Egyptian piastres for each quintal; that is, 937 piastres for
the whole, which, at the current rate of the dollar here, 15
piastres, is equal to 62½ dollars; whence we must deduct twenty
for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">[233]</span> the duty, and
there remains for the persons to whom the wheel belongs, 42½
dollars, or 637 piastres: but, as this is the lowest calculation,
we may fairly estimate nearly two piastres per day for each
water-wheel. This will go to the support of one family, provided it
can afford five persons capable of putting their shoulders to the
wheel; but otherwise, two families must unite to reckon up that
number. A great deduction on the gain of the peasant in Egypt is
the immense expense of the wheel: but here they are so much more
simple, they cost a very trifling sum; the oxen only 30 piastres
each, and their keep next to nothing.</p>

<p>However small a sum two piastres, or sevenpence English, may
appear to a European, it is amply sufficient in this climate, where
every necessary is so cheap. In Lower and Upper Egypt, where bread
is so much dearer, and meat and milk double the price, the fixed
price of a labourer amounts to half a piastre per day, to sustain
himself and perhaps a family. Most of the peasants here, too, have
other slips of land which are watered by the inundation of the
river, and they gain considerably by their date trees,
notwithstanding that they pay a tax of a piastre for each tree.
They also rear flocks, and cultivate vegetables, particularly the
favourite Arab ones, bamia and malakkhia; they make linen, spirit,
bouza, &amp;c. They allow, too, that grain pays them still better
than indigo.</p>

<p>The condition of the peasants of Upper Nubia is thus happy,
compared to those of Egypt. In this country, you very rarely see a
peasant with a ragged garment, and there are very few of the men
who have not their harems. Those who live near the seat of
government have also the advantage of supplying the markets with
the few vegetables the country produces, and of being employed as
workmen. Some also keep camels, which afford them a large
profit.</p>

<p>The Arabs of the desert have still more reason to be satisfied
with the present government, so far as regards their
pecuniary<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">[234]</span>
interests. They pay tribute only for the land they cultivate, which
is in general very little, and in many cases none at all; but
otherwise they gain a sufficient livelihood, by transporting to
Egypt, with their camels, the grain collected as revenue, or
purchased by the government, and in aiding the now constant passage
of troops and merchants. Many of the Arab tribes of Kordofan, who
formerly never came here, now participate in the profit of carrying
the 2500 camel loads of gum, which, as before stated, are annually
sent from that country to Cairo.</p>

<p>Thus the labouring peasants of the Nile and the Arabs of the
desert in Upper Nubia, so far as regards the taxes and means of
subsistence, are in happy circumstances compared to the Fellaheen
of Egypt; but in other respects they are equally galled by their
Turkish rulers. In Egypt, the officers only are oppressive: the
soldiers, who are Fellaheen, like the peasants, are not so insolent
as here, where their comparatively white complexion, their
character as conquerors, and their pride as <em>askari</em>, or
soldiers, induce them to despise the natives, and oppress them more
than the government authorises.</p>

<p>When the chief governor of a province is possessed of talent,
energy, and firmness, the officers and soldiers are prevented from
committing many excesses; but when the country has the misfortune
to be under a man like the Mahmoor of Dongolah,—too timid to
redress the complaints continually made against the disorderly
soldiers,—its state may easily be imagined. Each soldier is a
little tyrant, and commits a series of gross and petty vexations
inconceivable to a European. Of the many I have witnessed, I will
give only a few specimens:—If the soldier wants a sheep, fowls,
eggs, or any other article, he obliges the peasant to sell them at
half the market price, and not unfrequently refuses to pay any
thing at all. When becalmed on the river, he goes on shore, and
forces ten, and sometimes twenty, natives to drag his boat, without
any remuneration. If he meets a peasant girl<span class="pagenum"
id="Page_235">[235]</span> carrying milk or butter, he often helps
himself to half without paying for it, unless with a salute; and
woe betide the imprudent sheahk or peasant who refuses to give
gratuitously the best his house affords, or neglects the horse or
camel of the Turk or soldier who has taken up his quarters for the
night at his house. If camels or donkeys are wanted, they must
furnish them, and consider themselves fortunate if they get any
trifle in return. The haughty manner of the conquerors is still
more galling to the Arabs: their usual manner of addressing them
is, “<em>Kelp, Marhas!</em>”—“Dog! villain! Do this! do that!
quick! quick! cursed be your race!” with threats of a beating, even
actual blows, and sometimes with the sole of the shoe, which is the
greatest indignity that a Mahometan can receive.</p>

<p>Men whose ancestors have been chiefs in the country for ages
must now submit to the insolence and contumely of this vile and
lawless soldiery. From negligence the latter often do not demand
the tax on the water-wheels for some time; then, all at once, they
appear, calling out, “Pay me to-morrow, or the bastinado!” The
peasant, not being allowed sufficient time to raise the money, is
obliged to suffer this degrading punishment, and often even have
his ears nailed to a board. Being at a distance, perhaps, from the
seat of government, or large market towns, he has no opportunity of
selling his produce; nevertheless, with double the value of the sum
required in effects, he has to undergo a disgraceful punishment,
because he has no dollars.</p>

<p>The Mahas who revolted had not paid the government for some
time. The mahmoor sent a villanous Turk into their province, with
the instruments of torture, who immediately began bastinadoing
them, nailing their ears, and threatening to cut off their heads,
if they did not pay him. He visited Melek Backeet, who owed a
considerable sum to the government, and told him that, if he did
not pay his taxes in a few days, every species of torture would be
inflicted upon him. The Mahas manufacture a<span class="pagenum"
id="Page_236">[236]</span> strong linen cloth, which is very much
esteemed throughout all the valley of the Nile. Being at a distance
from the capital, and thus unable to command an immediate sale, at
least for the large quantity on hand, they tendered it in part of
their taxes. The government refused, though the transaction would
have been very advantageous to them, the linen being offered at a
price much lower than it sells for in the bazaar of Dongolah. Melek
Backeet, therefore, excited the revolt, preferring death to the
ignominious punishment with which he was threatened.</p>

<p>This country, under proper management, might become a far
greater source of wealth to the Pasha than it even now is.
Notwithstanding the galling system of the Turks, the natives are
sensible of the advantages of a settled and firm government; and
the peasants of the Nile, most particularly, are glad to be
released from the tyranny and spoliation accompanying the feuds and
petty wars by which the country was formerly torn. Did the Turks
but treat them as men, and not disgust them by their insulting
manners, and by inflicting on them such degrading and infamous
punishments; had their rulers but a few ideas of common policy and
legislation, the resources might be greatly augmented, the revenue
increased, and the people would be the most happy and contented
under the sun. The superiority which fire-arms afforded to their
haughty conquerors taught them to despise the strength of the
Arabs, and, with that insolence which is ever united with
ignorance, they do not in the slightest degree endeavour to attach
them to the government, or, in fact, condescend to treat, otherwise
than as a vastly inferior race, the people which it cost them so
much, even with all their advantages, to conquer.</p>

<hr class="chap">

<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">[237]</span><a id=
"c17"></a>CHAPTER XVII.</h2>

<p class="csum">DEPARTURE FROM EL OURDE. — ALARMS OF THE CARAVAN. —
MELEK BACKEET. — RETURN TO HAFFEER. — DETENTION IN THE INDIGO
MANUFACTORY. — NUBIAN PLANTS. — SECOND EXPEDITION OF THE
GOVERNMENT. — FANATICISM OF THE INSURGENTS. — THE BATTLE. —
PRISONERS. — DEPARTURE FROM HAFFEER. — DESCRIPTION OF THE CARAVAN.
— CATARACT. — EFFECTS OF THE REVOLUTION. — SPLENDID RUINS OF SOLIB.
— EXCAVATED TOMB NEAR SOLIB. — RUINS OF SUKKOT. — HEAT OF THE
CLIMATE. — ISLAND OF SAIS. — REMAINS OF CHRISTIAN RUINS. —
DESTRUCTIVE EFFECTS OF THE DESERT.</p>

<p class="nind"><em><span class="sc">May</span></em> 18. I
conceived, from the information which I obtained from the
government, and other quarters, that I might now pass with
tolerable safety through the province of Mahas, particularly by not
following the banks of the river, but taking the short cut across
the Desert, from Fakeer el Bint to Solib. By this route I shall
miss the ruin of Sescé; but, as it consists only of two or three
columns, I shall consider myself fortunate if I escape from the
country with this slight sacrifice. My caravan wish me to go on
direct to Egypt, without stopping at any more ruins, particularly
those of the splendid and celebrated Temple of Solib, which is
situated at the northern extremity of Mahas; but I have told them
that I will not leave that place until I have fully examined it,
and taken every drawing and measurement I shall consider necessary.
They are dreadfully afraid of meeting with Melek Backeet, who, with
a few desperate companions, has committed several depredations:
they think it very hard to incur any risk for the sake of a few old
stones: but I have hazarded my own life and health in visiting this
baneful clime; and I will not consent to pass, in that hurried
manner, one of the chief objects of my journey. I took leave of the
mahmoor, who gave me a guard, consisting of an Arab
baractar<span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">[238]</span> (ensign)
and six soldiers, mounted on dromedaries. We have, therefore, now
nothing to apprehend from stragglers. None of the merchants would
venture to join my caravan, notwithstanding my having a guard. I
should delay my departure for some days, but I see no chance of
Melek Backeet being taken, and, consequently, of the roads being
clear, and I am sick of this detention. We left Dongolah at three
o’clock, and slept in a beautiful grove of palm trees.</p>

<p><em>May</em> 19. Arrived this evening at Haffeer, and was well
entertained by the katshef, who chose the finest sheep in the
village to regale my caravan.</p>

<p><em>Hannek.—May</em> 20. We started soon after sunrise. Two
Turkish officers, with their servants, joined my caravan this
morning. Their company was not desirable, but the addition to our
force, of six persons, well armed, was not to be despised. We
halted at Hannek, to fill our water-skins, previous to entering the
desert. After dinner, at three P.M., we were on the point of
mounting our dromedaries, when a courier arrived from Sukkot, and
informed us that Melek Backeet, and his great coadjutor the Cadi
Esau, are at Fakeer el Bint, and in the desert, waiting for the Bey
Zadé<a id="FNanchor_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45" class=
"fnanchor">[45]</a> and his caravan, knowing that we intended to
pass, and believing us loaded with gold, which we had found in the
temples. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">[239]</span> news
produced the greatest consternation among my little troop. The
soldiers were more pusillanimous than the rest. One of the Turkish
officers, a cowhass, who last night, at Haffeer, talked loudly of
his valour, had this morning not a word to say. Such a change of
countenances I never witnessed: even my own servants were afraid to
proceed. With such an escort, and uncertain of the force of the
Mahas, it was impossible to attempt to pass. I, therefore, sent to
the katshef of Haffeer for a reinforcement: he advised me not to
advance, as the news was quite true. A reinforcement he could not
give, as he had only twenty soldiers to guard the indigo-house.</p>

<p><em>May</em> 21. This morning I returned to Haffeer, and having
ascertained from several peasants and couriers that Melek Backeet
had already with him 100 men, and that the number was increasing
hourly, I abandoned the idea of continuing my journey without
additional force. I, therefore, sent my dragoman to the mahmoor
with a letter, begging him not to delay, but send immediately a
sufficient number of soldiers to clear the country of the
insurgents. Were I alone, I would run the risk, and attempt to
cross the desert, or rather, with a compass in my hand, make a
circuitous route. This plan would, perhaps, have enabled me to
elude the enemy; yet, unfortunately, they have their spies in every
direction, even in Dongolah. My departure would be reported; and
although I were to sacrifice my baggage, their horses, swift
dromedaries, and superior knowledge of the country, would enable
them easily to overtake me, or intercept my route. For myself, I
would run any hazard, rather than endure, a day longer, the
<em>ennui</em> of being detained here; but the lives of others I
have no right to compromise. According to the arrangements I had
made, I ought now to have been in Europe. The heat is excessive,
and increasing daily, and my funds diminishing. As this delay will
oblige me to pass, with more haste, the antiquities below, my
vexation may be imagined.</p>

<p><em>Haffeer.—May</em> 21. to <em>June</em> 2. I was detained at
Haffeer, in the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">[240]</span>
indigo-manufactory, twelve days. During this period, we collected
and made drawings of several plants. I publish three, which I think
may be interesting to the general reader, having mentioned them
repeatedly. One, in <a href="#pl04">Plate IV.,</a> is the senna, a
name, doubtless, familiar to all. It grows wild upon the house-tops
and in the fields: the flower is yellow, and the leaves of a pale
green. The other plant, in the same plate, I have called indigo;
but although very good indigo is extracted from it, it is, in
reality, a totally different plant,—the Tephrosia Apollinea of
botanists. <a href="#pl52">Plate LII.</a> is a drawing of the
Osshi, the Calotropis gigantea. There are large plains in this
neighbourhood entirely covered with it, and, as I have stated in my
description of Makkarif, it abounds also in the province of Berber.
The interior of the flower is of a pink colour; the buds contain a
pungent liquor, of the colour of milk, which, according to the
Arabs, blinds when put in the eye. The leaves are of a greyish
green. The apple, represented in the Plate, contains the seed and a
fine glossy silk. The plant varies from four to six feet in height,
and is extremely valuable to the natives, being almost their only
firewood; and, as I have stated before, many camel loads of
charcoal made from it are sent to Cairo, being excellent for
gunpowder. Among the others I found, the only one of any interest,
and characteristic of Nubia, was a small kind of rue, the Ruta
tuberculata of botanists.</p>

<p>The mahmoor, having at his disposal a considerable body of
troops, which he had assembled, according to my advice, from
different parts of the province, was fortunately enabled to send
out immediately 300 soldiers. The Turks having, on the last
occasion, obtained 100 piastres and their expenses, again
volunteered their services. Having united with Melek Tumbol’s Arab
forces, they marched against the Mahas, who had rallied, in great
numbers, under their old chief, Melek Backeet; and this time had
very judiciously stationed themselves on a steep rock on a large
island, near Hannek, making excursions day and night, and rendering
the roads quite impassable.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw8">
<figure id="pl04">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 4.</p>
<a href="images/pl04.jpg"><img src='images/pl04.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>From a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins
Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="width-half cp1">INDIGO.</td>
<td class="width-half cp1">SENNA.</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<div class="figcenterplate iw9">
<figure id="pl52">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 52.</p>
<a href="images/pl52.jpg"><img src='images/pl52.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>From a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins
Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">OSSHI.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">[241]</span>The commander of
the expedition was the same brave fellow who took such particular
care of his person during the former engagement. He encamped near
the Mahas, and published a proclamation offering them a general
pardon. The Cadi Esau and many of the other sheakhs were disposed
to accept the terms, when another fanatic priest started up, and
upbraided them with their cowardice, treachery, and folly; “since,”
said he, “you know that the Turks will deceive you, and it is
evident that God has given our enemies into our hands; for without
seeking them they are come to us.” By this absurd harangue, he
kindled a wild enthusiasm, to increase which all the fakeers were
employed in writing charms on their weapons. The commander was
afraid to attack them, on account of their number and their strong
position; but the Turkish volunteers laughed him to scorn, and
dashed forward on horseback to charge the Mahas. Notwithstanding
the formidable position of the insurgents, many of them having
fire-arms, and the facility their situation afforded them of
rolling down stones on the Turks, yet such was the effect of the
instantaneous and gallant example set by the latter, that the
soldiers followed <em>en masse</em>, and soon dislodged and put to
flight the unfortunate Mahas.</p>

<p>In this engagement they calculated that 170 were killed, and
about 30 made prisoners. I myself saw here 105 pairs of ears on a
string, which the victors were conveying to the governor; and I am
informed the commander has another. Very many being shot in the
river, their ears could not be obtained. They brought also to
Haffeer twenty-two prisoners, linked together in a string, having
their arms tied behind their backs, in the ancient Egyptian manner.
Their arms were drawn together behind with a rope, attached a
little above their elbows; causing, of course, an unnatural and
painful projection of the chest. Some of them were apparently
half-bred negroes, who were or had been slaves. They were all tall
athletic men, but wild and haggard in their appearance, and
seemingly insensible either to pity or to suffering.<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_242">[242]</span> Seeing them in pain, I begged
the Turks to loosen their cords, which they did as a favour to me;
but the prisoners seemed quite indifferent, and did not even thank
me. I persuaded the Turks, also, to liberate from the cords a young
boy, of twelve or thirteen, on account of his extreme youth; but
the lad has something roguish in his eye; so that, if the soldiers
on guard do not pay more attention than it is their custom to do, I
flatter myself that, before they arrive at Dongolah, he will profit
by the indulgence, and effect his escape.</p>

<p>On hearing of the defeat of the Mahas, I determined instantly to
start, conceiving that, though Melek Backeet and his followers have
escaped, they will, for at least a day or two, be too much engaged
in providing for their own safety to lose time, and risk their own
security, in waylaying travellers. The only danger is that of
falling in with them by accident among the rocky passes of the
cataract, or in the desert; and they would gladly get hold of us,
not, perhaps, for plunder, but as hostages for their own security.
Now, however, we were all willing to encounter every risk rather
than support this endless delay, and be any longer confined to the
prison of a wretched indigo-house, in which my artist, myself, and
the two Turks had only one small hot room to sit, eat, and receive
visiters. The heat is dreadful: no cool refreshing wind to mitigate
the scorching rays of a sun almost completely vertical; every
breath of air heated as if issuing from a furnace; even the
evenings, after sunset, are hot. At that time I generally went down
to the river, the air on the banks being less oppressive: from
about midnight until sunrise, and even a few hours after, it is
very cool and delightful; and, not to lose the enjoyment and
benefit of that period, I have for the last month slept, like the
Arabs, in the open air.<a id="FNanchor_46"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a></p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">[243]</span>My caravan,
being strengthened by some merchants who joined us, became now
rather formidable, and may be worth describing. My own party
consisted of eleven, including the <em>habeer</em> (guide), two
Ababde, and three Hassanyeh, the owners of our two dromedaries and
six camels. My artist and myself were well armed, and my dragoman,
and Greek and Coptic servant, also had muskets, with which the
Mahmoor had provided them. My guide had fire-arms, and the Arabs
their lances and swords: therefore, including the guard which the
governor had given me, of a baractar and six soldiers, my own party
consisted of eighteen persons, of whom thirteen had fire-arms. The
two Turks and their two servants were provided with them; and their
camel-drivers were three Shageea armed with spears. Besides these,
five merchants, three with guns, joined my caravan. We were,
therefore, altogether, thirty men; twenty with fire-arms; and were
thus, I think, a match for 100 of the Mahas, with their matchlocks
and lances: but we all conceived it so very probable that we might
meet a party of the insurgents, that I directed each person to keep
his musket in his hand during the whole night.</p>

<p>We started at four in the afternoon, and marched until two in
the morning, ten hours, and encamped in the desert two hours before
arriving at Fakeer el Bint. The effect of the caravan winding along
the rocky banks of the cataracts in a line, one after the other, on
account of the narrowness and badness of the road, was very
picturesque. The variety of the costumes and armour; the numerous
Arab tribes,—for scarcely more than two or three of our<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_244">[244]</span> party belong to the same
one,—Hassanyeh, Shageea, and Ababde; Berberenes of Upper Nubia, and
Fellaheen of the lower valley of the Nile; Turks, Greeks, and
Europeans,—all differing in dress, features, and complexion,—formed
an interesting group. I could trace the gradations of colour, even
in my own caravan, from the yellowish Arab of Cairo to the darker
native of Upper Egypt, and from the brown Dongoloue to the
dark-brown Shageea; but the latter are very different in feature
and complexion from the bluish-black of the negro slaves belonging
to the Turks.</p>

<p>We all preserved the strictest silence, which enabled me to
enjoy more the noise of the cataracts, the soft moonlight, and the
romantic rocky scenery: but while I felt the beauty of the latter,
I was well aware that the granite rocks and passes afforded an
ambush for the Mahas, which was not without danger to us, their
unskilfulness and ignorance being my only security. We met
repeatedly parties of women and boys, either acting as spies, or
going, as they pretended, to Haffeer, their houses being destroyed,
and husbands and fathers dead. Their manner was certainly
suspicious, and I had some difficulty in preventing my soldiers
from treating them as spies. We passed several cottages, now
uninhabited in consequence of the revolt.</p>

<p><em>June</em> 3. We arrived, in two hours, at Fakeer el Bint,
and found the village entirely deserted. The Mahas, by their
imprudent rising, have entailed a long series of sufferings and
wretchedness on their families; even those peasants who took no
part in it are ruined; their houses destroyed; their oxen killed,
and their water-wheels broken. We may admire the enthusiastic
courage of the chiefs, who, born to command, could ill endure the
proud contempt and degrading punishments of their insolent
oppressors; but we cannot but condemn their guilt and rashness in
sacrificing, without the remotest chance of ultimate success, the
lives and happiness of so many of their countrymen. I observed, on
an island near Fakeer el Bint, several fugitives. The
Nile<span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">[245]</span> forms, between
this place and Solib, a considerable bend, the distance along the
banks, through the province of Mahas, being nearly thirty hours’
march of a camel, or about seventy miles, and by the desert only
twelve hours, or thirty miles. We entered the desert at three
o’clock. Never have I felt such excessive heat; every breath of air
is baneful. I tried to protect myself from it with a turban and
umbrella, and even the sheets of my bed were put in requisition. I
made an endeavour to construct a tent on my dromedary; but my
efforts were fruitless, the wind being too strong. I felt my mouth
dry and parched, and would have given even one of my drawings of
Meroe for a glass of pure cold water; but every drop we had was
soon quite warm. Before dark we had passed the mountainous and the
only soft part of the desert, and at midnight we encamped within
nine miles of Solib. The rocks are chiefly of serpentine, slate,
sandstone, and granite, the latter often much decomposed: there
were also a few fragments of marble scattered about.</p>

<p><em>Ruins of Solib.—June</em> 4-8. This morning, being anxious
to arrive at the celebrated Temple of Solib, I started before
sunrise, and, pushing on my dromedary at a quick pace, I arrived
there in two hours. The first view of the temple is very imposing;
standing proudly at the extremity of the desert, the only beacon of
civilisation in this sea of barrenness. The situation of the temple
is as picturesque as it is extraordinary. The columns are so
distinctly visible, that, at a distance, it has almost the
appearance of a Grecian edifice. On approaching nearer, the effect
is changed, but not injured; for, though not Grecian, it is of the
purest Egyptian architecture. I rambled over it for some time,
delighted with its picturesque appearance: the plan of the temple
is also beautiful, and the architecture of the most chaste
simplicity; but, as an antiquarian, I could have wished for more
remains of sculpture, and tablets with hieroglyphics.</p>

<p>The first grand propylon of the temple is 600 feet from
the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_246">[246]</span> river; but the
form and exact dimensions of it are now not distinguishable, being
entirely ruined, and the materials almost all carried away. From
the appearance of the rooms, which the reader will observe on a
reference to the <a href="#pl40">Plan,</a> there seems to have been
the same economy of stone in constructing of this propylon, which
we shall presently observe in the second. Behind the first are the
remains of two sphinxes. One of them is nearly destroyed, but the
other is not so much injured as to prevent my perceiving that the
style of the sculpture has been good; but in its present state I
did not consider it worth a drawing. I observed that the first and
second propylons were connected together. The Plan (<a href=
"#pl40">Plate XL.</a>) will show that in front of the second there
are the remains of two walls, which, no doubt, connected it with
the first. This is quite in conformity with the general
construction of Egyptian edifices. A flight of steps, now scarcely
distinguishable, led up into a court before the second propylon.
This court, the entrance into which is about 85 feet from the first
propylon, is 70 feet long and 45 feet wide. It was ornamented with
six columns, the diameter of which is 10 feet; the traces of them
only are visible.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw10">
<figure id="pl40">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 40.</p>
<a href="images/pl40.jpg"><img src='images/pl40.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>Drawn by L. Bandoni.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">TEMPLE OF SOLIB BUILT BY AMENOPH 3.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>London. Published by Longman, Rees &
C<sup>o</sup>. April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The remains of the second propylon are more considerable. Each
wing is 78 feet wide; the door in the centre, leading into the
temple, 11 feet wide, making the total width 167 feet. The depth of
the propylon is 24 feet. It is remarkable, that this propylon is
not, like those of Egypt, a solid mass of stone, with only
staircases, and, occasionally, small rooms, but finished, and
apparently used for habitations. The one here contains three rooms
on one side, and two on the other, but without doors, and evidently
constructed with a view of using little stone, as the walls are not
hewn smooth. This is an economy of material rarely seen in Egyptian
edifices. The doorway leading into the temple is of the correct
Egyptian form, the width of the centre part, which is 17 feet long,
being 13 feet, and that of the two ends, which are each<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_247">[247]</span> 3 feet long, being, as already
mentioned, only 11 feet wide. The recesses, thus formed in the
centre of the doorways, add very much to their architectural
beauty. The view from this doorway of the next court of the temple
is very magnificent. This court is 90 feet long and 113 wide, and
was ornamented with twenty-eight columns, a single row on each of
the north, south, and east sides, and two on the west, being the
side opposite to the entrance. There are now seven of these columns
standing, with the bud-shaped capital. I observed a slight
difference in their dimensions, but they are of the purest Egyptian
architecture; their circumference is 19 feet 4 inches, and
intercolumniation 5 feet 5 inches. Few more striking views are
presented in any part of the valley of the Nile than the first
entrance from the second propylon into this court.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw15">
<figure id="i16"><a href="images/i16.jpg"><img src='images/i16.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">COLUMNS OF SOLIB.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p><a href="#pl41">Plate XLI.</a> is taken from this point, and
will, I trust, give<span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">[248]</span>
the reader a correct idea of the magnificence and exquisite
architectural beauty of this temple. Five columns appear in this
view, detached from each other, proud monuments of the power and
greatness of the Egyptian conqueror Amunoph III., who erected them,
and whose name and titles are engraved in hieroglyphics on their
shafts. They bear also the name of the great divinity Amun Ra, to
whom the temple was dedicated. The remains of many of the columns
are lying on the ground; the roof is gone; and only one piece of
architrave remaining, supported by one of the most beautiful and
perfect of the columns. The architectural form of these columns is
more light and elegant than almost any specimens of the same kind
in Egypt; at the same time without losing that character of
grandeur and severity, so much in unison with its situation. The
background to this view (as will be seen in the <a href=
"#pl41">Plate</a>) is the trackless desert,—a vast yellow ocean,
bounded only by the horizon, without an eminence, or even hillock,
visible to relieve the eye; and that tide of sand which never ebbs,
driven on continually by the prevailing strong winds from the
north, and particularly the north-west, beats against the temple,
and daily encroaches on its remains. On the east side, at a short
distance from the ruin, towards the Nile, Isis seems still to
extend her protection, and a luxuriant and beautiful vegetation
flourishes; but on the other sides Typhon reigns in gloomy
solitude, and the traveller turns with delight from the
contemplation of the bleak and dreary wilderness, to the elegant
and magnificent work of art which adorns its margin.</p>

<p><a href="#pl42">Plate XLII.</a> is a view I made which shows all
the seven columns which remain in this court.<a id=
"FNanchor_47"></a><a href="#Footnote_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a>
Waddington speaks of<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_249">[249]</span> the red tints of the sandstone: there are a
few, but very few, the general colour being much whiter than that
of any Egyptian or Ethiopian ruin I have seen. I was in doubt
whether to consider it as arenarious limestone, or sandstone; but
the specimens I brought to England have been decided to be
sandstone. The background of this view, consisting of the river and
distant hills, is very pretty. The view is taken from the last
existing room; and the reader will perceive to the right, in the
foreground, the fragment of a column on which is one of the
representations of prisoners which adorn all the columns of that
room. The next court is more destroyed; yet there are sufficient
traces of the columns to show precisely what the plan has been. It
is of the same width as the last court, and 78 feet long; and was
ornamented with two rows of columns on the north and south sides,
and on the east and west with one only; in all, thirty-two. The
circumference of each is 17 feet; but not one of them is
standing.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw5">
<figure id="pl41">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 41.</p>
<a href="images/pl41.jpg"><img src='images/pl41.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by W. P. Sherlock, from a Drawing
by G. A. Hoskins Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">TEMPLE OF AMENOPH III, SOLIB.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The next chamber, which was apparently an intermediate room
leading to the sanctuaries, contains the remains of twelve columns,
of which now only one remains perfect. The capital is of a form
generally considered as Ptolemaic, but we have here authority for
calling it Egyptian. It represents branches of the palm tree, and
near the base of these columns there is some interesting sculpture;
a number of prisoners, represented with their heads and busts
resting on turreted ovals, containing the names of the countries
whence they come; and, to signify that they are prisoners, their
hands are tied together behind their backs, in the usual Egyptian
manner, tight above the elbows, causing a painful and unnatural
projection of the chest. The prisoners on the columns on the north
side of this room have beards and hair; and some, without hair,
appear to be old men. Their features are fine, and have very little
of the Negro cast. On the opposite side, the prisoners represented
are youths with their hair tied in a knot a little below the crown
of the head, and hanging down almost to their shoulders. These have
very much of the Negro features, wide nostrils, thick
lips,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_250">[250]</span> and high
cheek-bones. I copied the names of thirty-eight of these provinces:
the only one I could make out was that of Mesopotamia, in
hieroglyphics.</p>

<p>On the column in this room which still preserves its capital, is
some sculpture, in a good style, representing the king presenting
offerings to Honsoo, with the globe and short horns for a
head-dress. The remains of the temple extend a hundred feet beyond
this room; so that the entire length of the edifice must have been
about 540 feet, and the number of columns with which it was
adorned, and whose situation can now be accurately ascertained, is
eighty-four. There must, however, have been a greater number; for
among the confused piles of stone which are stated above as
extending a hundred feet beyond this room, I found some fragments
of columns 3 feet in diameter. (<a href="#pl43">Plate XLIII.</a> is
taken from this end of the temple.) This is also an extremely
beautiful point of view; but although not even a small stone is
omitted, and notwithstanding the temple is so ruined, the reader
will perceive that there is no excess of shapeless masses of stone
to spoil the effect of the splendid architectural remains of the
edifice. The column I have described with the Ptolemaic capital is
the most prominent object in this view; but the picturesque
grouping of the columns of the great court is finely exhibited from
this point.</p>

<p>On the door leading from the first great court into the second,
the king is represented with a staff in his hand, addressing Amun
Ra, who has the usual sceptre of the gods. Above the latter is the
king presenting offerings to a divinity, the hieroglyphical titles
of which are not legible; but the wings of the goddess of truth are
visible. Behind the second propylon, there has been some very
interesting sculpture, but it is now scarcely perceptible: the
figures were apparently only one foot high. One piece I copied,
which had some of the hieroglyphics remaining; but above this I
could only distinguish the divinities with the attributes of Horus,
Thoth, Anubis, Osiris, and Amun Ra, to whom the temple is
dedicated. This sculpture is in basso relievo. It is much to
be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">[251]</span> regretted that
it is so defaced; for, doubtless, it has been a most interesting
mythological tablet. Some of the blocks of stone are harder than
the others, but the greater number are exceedingly soft, doubtless,
one cause of the ruined state of the temple, and why the sculpture
is scarcely distinguishable.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw6">
<figure id="pl42">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 42.</p>
<a href="images/pl42.jpg"><img src='images/pl42.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by C. Hullmandel from a Drawing
by G. A. Hoskins Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">SOLIB.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The remains of the ancient city extend for a considerable
distance both towards the north and south. On the bank of the
river, 240 yards farther north than the temple, are the remains of
a small pier, 13 feet high, and 20 feet long; while 200 yards to
the north of this pier is a projection of stones into the river,
thrown in apparently to form a port. This has evidently been a city
of some importance. Its situation, at the commencement of the road
across the desert, is also deserving of attention. The town was
advantageously situated, being on the route both of those who
followed the banks of the river and also of those who crossed the
desert.</p>

<p>Ptolemy places the great cataract at 22° 30′; Φθουρι, at 21°
20′; a difference of 1° 10′. The real difference of latitude is 1°
27′; that is, 17′ more; but Autoba, the town he mentions before
Phthouris, is stated to be only 54°, that is, 23° less than the
ascertained difference; and Pistre, which is the next town he
mentions after Phthouris, is 1° 50′ from the cataract; that is, 23°
too far distant. We have thus, I think, no other alternative than
to suppose this to be the site of Phthouris, which, from the
magnitude of the ruins, must have belonged to a city of great
importance, and one that he would not have omitted to mention. The
Temple of Siscé is probably the site of Pistre.</p>

<p>After the pyramids of Meroe, this is decidedly the most
interesting and magnificent ruin we have seen in Ethiopia; superior
to the former, perhaps, in picturesque and architectural beauty,
but less interesting to the antiquarian, as being Egyptian, and not
Ethiopian. It is worthy of remark, that, with the exceptions of the
colossal statues of Argo, I have not met with any genuine Ethiopian
remains since I left Gibel el Birkel. Travellers who extend
their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">[252]</span> tour of the
Nile to the second cataract, would be amply repaid for their
additional fatigue, if they visited this temple.</p>

<p>We found, on our arrival at Solib, a number of merchants
detained there on their way to Dongolah, on account of the
insurrection. They were delighted to see us arrive, and prepared
immediately for their departure. They complained bitterly of their
long detention and great consequent expense. Solib is almost at the
extremity of the province of Mahas; but, the peasants of this end
of the province not having taken any part in the revolt, we were
comparatively secure, although Melek Backeet, their chief, has a
house in the neighbourhood. I lived under a shed at a short
distance from the temple, and remained there four days, working
almost from sunrise until sunset, regardless of the extreme heat. I
now required a sheep every day for my caravan, which I had some
difficulty in procuring, having had repeatedly to send across the
river. I fortunately provided myself with a large stock of bread
and biscuit at Dongolah: there is none to be had here.</p>

<p><em>June</em> 8. At the quick pace of the dromedary, I was
twenty minutes in going, this evening, from the temple to the
village of Solib. It is remarkable for the cottages being made,
like those of the latter in Mahas and Dongolah, of the stalks of
the dourah, and branches of the palm tree: here, however, the
foliage extends considerably above the roofs of the huts; and thus
not only protects them in some degree from the rays of the sun, but
gives them a very picturesque and graceful appearance. The house of
the sheakh of the village is fortified with square towers.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw7">
<figure id="pl43">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 43.</p>
<a href="images/pl43.jpg"><img src='images/pl43.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by W. P. Sherlock, from a Drawing
by G. A. Hoskins Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">TEMPLE OF AMENOPH, SOLIB.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>About a mile beyond the village is the rock called Doshe, which,
projecting into the river, divides the province of Mahas from
Sukkot. It is of sandstone, and contains traces of iron ore: its
surface is rugged, and in part blackened by the sun, forming a
striking contrast to the bright yellow sand which covers the
central part of the rock. At the eastern end, above the river, is
an excavated tomb, which contains some traces of sculpture, though
now scarcely distinguishable. I perceived, from what remains, that
it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">[253]</span> was in a good
style of basso relievo. There were some ovals, but no hieroglyphics
on them at all legible. I endeavoured to make out the name, and,
from the slight fragments remaining, I conceived one to be that of
Thothmes III., and another that of Osirtisen III., but must confess
I could not make them out at all satisfactorily.<a id=
"FNanchor_48"></a><a href="#Footnote_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a>
At the end of the tomb are the remains of three divinities, seated.
The sculpture of these does not seem to have been good, but they
are so defaced, that it is impossible to decide upon the style. On
each side of the divinities is a niche. The site of this tomb is
picturesque, commanding a fine prospect of the river. (See <a href=
"#i17">vignette.</a>) Above it a king is represented making
offerings to a divinity with the attributes of Kneph, and behind
the latter are two other divinities, one with a plain
helmet,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">[254]</span> the other a
vase on her head. Beneath the line containing these subjects is
another containing a figure kneeling, and a long tablet of
hieroglyphics; but the latter are so broken and defaced, that only
one here and there is legible. On the south side of the tomb is a
beautiful little piece of sculpture, representing a king making
offerings to Amun Ra, with the head-dress of the globe and short
horns; and behind the last is a goddess. The name of the king seems
to have been broken off designedly, and the hieroglyphics are very
much defaced.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw15">
<figure id="i17"><a href="images/i17.jpg"><img src='images/i17.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">FROM A TOMB EXCAVATED OUT OF THE ROCK NEAR
SOLIB.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p><em>June</em> 8. We left the village of Solib, and province of
Mahas, at four o’clock, and arrived at the village of Sukkot at six
in the evening. This is rather a large place, and the residence of
the katshef. I observed, in passing, four of the fortified houses
of the sheakhs; the rest of the houses are of mud: there are some
few of the palm leaves, but not so picturesque as those of the
Mahas.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw15">
<figure id="i18"><a href="images/i18.jpg"><img src='images/i18.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">TEMPLE OF SUKKOT.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<div class="figcenter iw15">
<figure id="i19"><a href="images/i19.jpg"><img src='images/i19.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">TEMPLE OF SUKKOT.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">[255]</span>We stopped to
examine some ruins, called by the peasants, Biban. The first
consists of two fragments of columns, around which are the traces
of the temple. The plan is Roman-Egyptian, and is rather curious,
though not good. (See <a href="#i18">vignette.</a>) Three hundred
and fifty yards to the north there is another ruined temple. One
column is standing amid a mass of large stones: it reminded me of
the solitary column, and the vast masses around it, of the Temple
of Hercules at Girgenti; but the comparison is very degrading to
the great beauty of the latter. The capital of this is almost
entirely defaced, but it has decidedly been a head of Athor. On
some of the stones I observed fragments of Egyptian ornaments, and
the fragment of a name, apparently Amunoph III. The column is
fluted, but not in the usual Egyptian style, being much more flat.
Attempts have apparently been recently made to throw it down, or
break it to pieces, its architectural ornaments being quite
obliterated. Its circumference is 12 feet 8 inches. East of the
temple is a basalt statue, the sculpture of which seems to have
been very good,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_256">[256]</span> but
it is very much injured. On the interval between the two temples,
and also for 350 yards beyond, extending thus over a space of 700
yards, there are traces of the city. These may be called the ruins
of Sukkot, from their vicinity to that village, which is the chief
place of the province.</p>

<p>It is very difficult to ascertain what was the ancient name of
this place. The situation of the ruins agrees better with the
position, according to Ptolemy, of Phthouris, than Solib; but the
insignificance of the remains here, compared to the splendid ruins
of Solib, prevent my imagining it to be that city. It may be one of
the many mentioned by Pliny, or the Autoba of Ptolemy.</p>

<p>Half an hour after we left this ruin we passed the village of
Gobetziteen. I observed a large caravan of slave merchants from
Dongolah, who had left Solib this morning: their numerous fires,
and the groups seated under the palm trees, were very picturesque,
presenting effects that even a Gherardo della Notte could scarcely
have done justice to. They complained of the detention at Dongolah
having cost them so much. The expense of transporting the slaves
from Kordofan, or Abyssinia, to Cairo, is very great; the duty
alone, besides the maintenance, is nearly seven dollars each. They
pay duty at four different places: at Kordofan, at Dongolah, at
Deroueh near Assuan, and, lastly, at Boulak near Cairo.</p>

<p>We stopped at the village of Essau, opposite to the Island of
Hadji Falme. On the latter they tell me that there are antiquities,
but all broken; and I could not procure a boat to visit them. Being
rather late of arriving, I found the inhabitants of the village
sleeping in the open air; the women on the angoureebs, and the men
on mats: and, I can assure the reader, it is a great enjoyment, in
this climate, to sleep thus beneath the clear blue sky. About ten
o’clock the air becomes rather cool, while at midnight and in the
morning it is comparatively cold: this invigorates the frame, after
the enervating heat of the day; and, in this climate, there are no
fogs or damp to dread. It is the only time that I can now
enjoy;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">[257]</span> yet I
support the heat better than my servants, though accustomed to that
of Egypt all their lives. We are exposed nearly the whole day to a
sun almost directly vertical, without a breath of cool air to
alleviate our sufferings. The wind generally blows from the north,
but, instead of being refreshing, it is so heated, in passing over
the desert, that it not only feels oppressive, but dries up the
mouth and skin, and checks perspiration. The Arabs, under the shade
of their palm trees, and smoking their pipes, enjoy this hot
weather; but the unfortunate traveller, exposed to these scorching
winds, and to the heat reflected from the rocks and sand, has no
other respite to his sufferings than during the now short
nights.</p>

<p><em>June</em> 9. At Gobetziteen the Island of Sais commences,
and extends for six hours towards the north. At this season of the
year no boat is necessary to visit this island, the water which
separates it from the main land being only deep enough to reach the
knees of the camels. It contains no remains of Egyptian
antiquities. The peasants spoke of ruins; but they proved to be
some grey granite columns belonging to a Christian edifice. They
are in the centre of the island, nearly half an hour from the
river. Each column consists of one piece of granite, with a Greek
cross on their capitals. They are not very unlike the Christian
monolithic pillars in the centre of the splendid portico of Medenet
Abou. There are a great many wells in this island, with
water-wheels, by means of which a considerable part of the interior
is irrigated. I had a drawing of these Christian ruins taken by Mr.
B.; but, not setting much value on it, I have mislaid it. From the
number of houses the island appears to be populous. An hour beyond
Sais, and four hours from Essau, we stopped at a small village of
five huts, called Kasr Towaga, from the brick ruins of a castle of
that name close adjoining.</p>

<p>The ride this morning was most uninteresting; a slip of
uncultivated land, narrower than even in the most barren parts
of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">[258]</span> Lower Nubia,
separating the river from the bleak and dreary desert. In the
latter I observed several hills of light sand, which a strong wind
would easily move, to the risk, perhaps, of the unfortunate
travellers who might happen to be near. These moving masses of sand
would baffle the efforts of cultivators more advanced in knowledge
than the Nubians. It is not, therefore, surprising that these
unfortunate beings consider as useless any attempt to resist so
relentless an invader. The islands, protected by the river, afford
them a refuge and support, without which this part of the valley of
the Nile would soon be abandoned to the gazelles and beasts of
prey. Our camels often sank up to the knees in sand. I observed on
the latter great quantities of scarabæi. I have often seen these
insects on the sand in parts of the desert where it was difficult
to conceive how they could exist. Perhaps they live on other
insects too minute to be seen by the naked eye. I once gave a
scarabæus a date, and was astonished with what avidity he devoured
a part of it, till he was completely gorged, and apparently half
dead.</p>

<p>I observed here a curious thrush, which is also very common near
Dongolah. One I killed measured nine inches in length, including
the tail, which is four and a half. The under part of the wings is
of a light brown colour, and the lower feathers of the tail are
edged at the extremity with white; otherwise, the plumage is
entirely of a brownish black. The beak and legs are black; the
former is curved.</p>

<hr class="chap">

<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_259">[259]</span><a id=
"c18"></a>CHAPTER XVIII.</h2>

<p class="csum">KASR TOWAGA. — DIFFICULTY OF CROSSING THE RIVER. —
INDOLENCE OF THE ARABS. — ARAB SHEAKH. — TEMPLE OF AMARAH. —
PRESENT INHABITANTS. — WADY EL HADJAR. — FORTIFIED HOUSE ON AN
ISLAND AT DAHL. — CATARACT OF UCKMA. — BIGOTRY OF THE INHABITANTS.
— VARIOUS CATARACTS OF THE NILE. — MINERAL SPRING AT TANGOURE. —
TEMPLES OF SEMNEH, ON THE WESTERN BANK. — CURIOUS MANNER OF
CROSSING THE RIVER. — TEMPLE OF SEMNEH, ON THE EASTERN BANK. —
INSCRIPTIONS ON THE ROCKS. — THE ARAB ROBBER ISAH. — SECOND
CATARACT OF THE NILE. — INDUCEMENTS FOR TRAVELLERS TO EXTEND THEIR
JOURNEY BEYOND THIS POINT. — COMPARISON BETWEEN VOYAGES IN THE
DESERT AND AT SEA.</p>

<p class="nind"><span class="sc">At</span> Kasr Towaga I wished to
visit the remains of the Temple of Amarah, on the eastern bank; but
for several hours I despaired of procuring a raft or boat, or any
other means of crossing the river. After waiting some time, I
observed at a distance a Sukkot ferry-boat, and immediately offered
nine Turkish piastres to an Arab to go for it, and the same sum for
the boat; and, as the camel-drivers began to be mutinous at the
idea of being detained another day, I promised them a backsheesh of
eighteen piastres; but such is the character of the Arabs in this
country, that, so long as they have enough to procure any kind of
food, they will seldom exert themselves to procure more. They
prefer to live miserably, scarcely better than their
fellow-labourers the camels, rather than to better their condition,
secure an independence, and a provision against a day of
distress.</p>

<p>To increase their possessions, and elevate themselves to a
higher rank by their activity and frugality, are ideas which never
enter the minds of these children of destiny. If they earn a little
money, or if some favour of fortune places unexpectedly in their
hands a hundred piastres, they more generally spend it in
a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">[260]</span> few nights of
festivity, and burden themselves with the expense of another wife,
than reserve it for the day when the fickle goddess may cease to
befriend them. With what alacrity would a poor European accept the
offer of 9 piastres (2<em>s.</em> 3<em>d.</em>) to walk two miles
for a boat! How gladly would a European boatman earn the same sum
by merely ferrying us across the stream; yet it was more by threats
than by this offer (although equal to eighteen days’ wages) that I
induced one of my camel-drivers to go, during the heat of the day,
for the boat. As, of course, I promised the reward only in case of
success, he was unwilling to undergo this little fatigue on an
uncertainty. My firman was also necessary to dispose the boatmen to
earn more in twenty-four hours than they certainly have gained
during the whole of the past week.</p>

<p>My camel-drivers were very mutinous when they found me
determined to pass the night at Amarah: my guide threatened to
leave me, but he changed his tone when I told him to go, and
declared I would not pay him. By the present of eighteen piastres,
added to certain threats of the <em>korbash</em> (whip made of the
hide of the hippopotamus), if they annoyed me, order was restored.
Backsheesh has great influence on the Arabs, but without a certain
degree of firmness they are sometimes difficult to manage.</p>

<p>We crossed the river, landed on the eastern bank, and went to
the nearest village, called Heber. We found the sheakh and the
principal inhabitants assembled under the shade of the palm trees.
The sheakh, a noble-looking fellow, with that dignified gravity
which I have so often found among the Arabs of this rank, received
us with the usual attentions; and, in compliance with my request,
immediately procured us donkeys, and conducted us to the village of
Amarah, a ride of an hour and a half. The sheakh had a house at
Amarah, to which he took us, and gave us an excellent supper and
angoureebs to sleep on, which are very necessary here, on account
of the number of scorpions. The road between the villages of Heber
and Amarah is through the desert. I found<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_261">[261]</span> on it some beautiful specimens of red
Egyptian jasper and hornstone nodules. We passed a large mountain,
called Hadjer el Heber, of a very imposing appearance, which we had
remarked this morning, on the opposite side of the river. It is
about ten miles distant from the Nile.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw15">
<figure id="i20"><a href="images/i20.jpg"><img src='images/i20.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">PLAN OF THE TEMPLE OF AMARAH.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The Temple of Amarah is about half an hour’s walk from the
village of the same name, and is situated between the villages of
Heber and Amarah, in the desert, to the right of the road we
passed. There is sufficient remaining of the Temple of Amarah to
exhibit the style and epoch. The architecture is Ethiopian (see
<a href="#i20">Plan</a>). A gateway, 19 feet wide, and ornamented
with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">[262]</span> two columns,
fragments of which are remaining, 3 feet 8 inches in diameter,
leads into a room 53 feet by 30, ornamented with eight columns,
also 3 feet 8 inches in diameter. Not a fragment of their capitals
remains; but a considerable portion, covered with sculpture, of
each column is standing.</p>

<p>The sculpture on the columns is Ethiopian, but very indifferent,
and the hieroglyphics so wretchedly executed, and so defaced, that
it was scarcely possible to decipher any of them. The lowest row on
the columns represents divinities of the Nile, besides which I
observed a goddess with the globe, long horns, and two feathers,
perhaps Koht, another with a plain helmet such as Neith often
wears; and there is a representation of a king making offerings to
Kneph, represented with a ram’s head, globe, and two feathers; and
also to Thriphis, with a tiger’s head; a plain figure of Amun Ra,
and the same with the figure of a mummy and globe and two feathers:
I also remarked Honsoo with the globe and short horns. In the
centre of the columns is a line of hieroglyphics, which I copied as
well as their ruined condition would permit: they contain some
curious titles, and the name of a king which is unknown. I conceive
the temple to have been dedicated to Kneph, as the representations
of that divinity are more frequent, and in more conspicuous
situations, than the others.</p>

<p>The foundations of the temple are of brick, and, for some
distance around, are scattered fragments of pottery with branches
of the palm tree painted on them, remains, no doubt, of the ancient
city. The columns are of sandstone. Plate XLIV. (see <a href=
"#pl44">Frontispiece</a>) shows two of them in detail, and their
situation in regard to the Nile, or rather, I should say, as the
river is not visible, to the palm groves on its banks, and will
enable the reader to judge of the style of the sculpture. Ptolemy
places the second cataract in latitude 22° 30′, and Berethis, on
the eastern bank, 21° 30′. The difference of 1° agrees very exactly
with the distance between the cataract and the ruins of Amarah.</p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">[263]</span>The country on
this side of the Nile is richly cultivated, and the inhabitants
bear no appearance of poverty. Notwithstanding the heavy taxes
which they pay, those who are industrious may easily earn
sufficient to render them comfortable. I saw about thirty of the
peasants, who were all particularly clean and well-dressed. A party
of them were feasting on raw liver. The custom of eating raw
kidneys and liver is very common south of the second cataract. The
same custom is, I understand, very general in Syria, and once
existed in Scotland. I observed here, also, a custom which I had
often heard of, but never before witnessed. When an Arab loses any
near relation, his friends are expected to condole with him on his
loss, by literally mingling their tears with his; for they place
their cheeks together, and sigh and sob often for ten minutes at a
time. This custom in the land of crocodiles reminded me of our
expression of “crocodile tears.” A French merchant, Sheakh Ibrahim,
who has often visited these regions, was described to me as a
perfect Arab; and when I asked why, “Oh,” said they, “he eats raw
liver, and cries as we do.”</p>

<div class="box-float float-left">
<div class="figfloat">
<figure class="iw20" id="i21"><a href="images/i21.jpg"><img src=
'images/i21.jpg' alt='[Illustration]'></a>
</figure>
</div>
</div>

<p>I saw here a description of guitar, which is very common in
Upper Nubia, but it may be called the guitar of the Shageea, as
that tribe possess more beautiful ones than are found elsewhere.
They consist, as the vignette will show (see <a href=
"#i21">vignette</a>), of a circular bowl, about nine inches in
diameter, of wood, or sometimes of the shell of a tortoise of the
Nile: this is covered with prepared sheepskin, in which are six
small holes, marked E. The three sticks B, C, D, are generally of
acacia; but in Dar Shageea they are sometimes of ebony, and
ornamented with silver and ivory. There are five cords attached to
the cross stick C, but they have no pegs, merely folding several
times round the latter in rather a clumsy<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_264">[264]</span> manner: they, however, manage to tighten
them. F is a string to attach it to the wall; and G is a plectrum,
with which they strike with their right hand the cords near the
bridge; playing, at the same time, with the left. Their music is
wild and simple,—little variation in it,—but some of their airs are
not unpleasing. The reader will perceive, from the vignette, that
the form is not very unlike that of the Greek lyre.</p>

<p><em>June</em> 10. We returned at noon from the Temple of Amarah
to the village of Kasr Towaga; started from the latter place at two
in the afternoon, and advanced five hours in the desert. The first
part of this wilderness is desolate and frightful, beyond any I
have ever seen. After a short space its appearance became still
more terrible, resembling a sea agitated and driven into the most
awful shapes by wild winds. For the first few hours the ground was
covered with pebbles and quartz nodules of various colours. The
rocks, which are of gneiss, serpentine, and flinty slate,
occasionally appear. Four hours after starting, we passed a
mountain called Hellal, of a conical shape, the second we have
observed of this form since we left Kasr Towaga; and an hour
afterwards we encamped in the desert.</p>

<p><em>June</em> 11. We started at sunrise; and in half an hour
entered among a chain of granite rocks; fine, bold, roundish
masses, having all the appearance, at a distance, of being detached
and piled on each other. In two hours and a half from the time we
started, we arrived at the Nile, opposite the Island of Dahl. For
some time before arriving, we observed, on the eastern bank, a fine
eminence, which, at one point of view, reminded me somewhat of the
western mountain of Thebes, although smaller, and of a less
brilliant colour. The place at which we stopped (see <a href=
"#i22">vignette</a>) offers one of the most picturesque views in
the Batn, or Wady el Hadjar, into which we have now entered. The
Island of Dahl is the principal object: on a picturesque rock, in
the centre of it, is a fortified castle of a sheakh,
the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_265">[265]</span> successor,
perhaps, of one of the forts on the islands represented on the
walls of Thebes.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw15">
<figure id="i22"><a href="images/i22.jpg"><img src='images/i22.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">ISLAND OF DAHL IN THE WADY EL HADJER.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The latter part of the small desert I passed this morning was
strewed with quartz, generally white. The gneiss of which the
rocks, at the commencement of this little desert, are formed, is
soft, friable, disposed in strata: there are also rocks of mica
slate of a grey colour. The granite rocks, at the other extremity,
consist almost entirely of felspar and quartz; the former
predominating, with very little mica: the grain is extremely
coarse, generally very friable, of a pink, but mostly of a grey
colour. There were also in this desert some rocks of felspar,
porphyry, and a great variety of granite—tone-granite, syenite, and
others.</p>

<p>At two o’clock, we left, with great reluctance, the shade of the
doum trees, and the enjoyment of one of the most beautiful views in
the valley of the Nile, to encounter again the horrors of the
desert and a burning sun. For the first part of our<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_266">[266]</span> route, the rocks were of
syenite. The circular summits of these dark red rocks were visible
as far as our view could reach, rising sometimes in hills, but
mostly in pyramidal and conical forms. I observed a line of
calcareous rock about 13 feet broad, almost resembling the
foundations of a wall, which crossed the road, and extended east
and west among the granite rocks. This was followed again by the
granite; and shortly after these was a similar narrow, but less
regular, cross of jasper, and also one of porphyry. I brought away
no specimens of the latter, for the masses were large, and
difficult to break. Afterwards, we had a succession of granite,
porphyry, compact felspar, hornblende slate, grey gneiss, and
serpentine; and the rocks, immediately before arriving at the Nile,
were of syenite.</p>

<p>We passed this little desert in five hours, with great fatigue
to the camels and the men on foot, on account of the sand and heat.
We encamped, for the night, at the small village of Uckma, which
consists of only eight houses; but I am informed that this is the
name of the district, as there are two other little villages, one
on the opposite side of the river, and the other on the island,
which bear the same name. My servants, or, rather, my guide and
camel-drivers, made us pass for Turks; saying, that the peasants of
this district were so bigoted, that, if they knew us to be
Christians, no consideration would induce them to supply us with
either milk or meat for ourselves, or straw for our camels. The
noise of the cataract here is very fine.</p>

<p><em>June</em> 12. A curious circumstance happened to me last
night. I am rather attached to a pretty little capuchin monkey
which I received from the Governor of Berber, and which (an unusual
circumstance with these animals) shows some little gratitude for my
attentions. Several times it has escaped among the acacias of the
desert; but, notwithstanding the temptation of the gum, it never
attempted to run away when I went for it myself. I was anxious that
it should not share the fate of my<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_267">[267]</span> Dongolah greyhound, and die of fatigue.
Having taught it to be clean, and being unwilling to trust it to my
servants, I carried it always on my own camel, to shelter it from
the sun; and as the poor little animal suffered exceedingly from
the cold at night, I allowed it to sleep under the margin of the
covering of my divan. For some nights past it had got into the
habit of laying its head on the corner of my cushion, and, amused
at this manœuvre, I indulged it; but the ticking of my watch always
annoyed it, and several times it had attempted to take it away;
but, aware of this antipathy, and the mischievous propensities of
the race, I always wore my chain around my neck. Last night, when
in bed, I looked at the watch, which was a hunting one, and having
broken the hinge of the gold covering of the face, omitted, I
presume, to fasten it with the spring. This morning, on being
called, I looked, as usual, at my watch, and found that this piece
was missing. I immediately cast my eyes on the monkey, and saw, by
its fluttering and leaping about, and the ruffling of its skin,
which always takes place when it is afraid, that it was the
culprit; yet all my efforts to find the covering were useless. My
bed was on the sand of the desert, in which, no doubt, the animal,
on seeing it loose, had buried it deep, thinking, by that means, to
get rid of its nightly annoyance, or, perhaps, from its usual
instinct of taking every opportunity to do mischief.</p>

<p>We set out an hour before sunrise, and, crossing a short but
heavy sandy desert, arrived, in two hours, at Lamulay. The rocks,
at starting, were of gneiss, but there occurred afterwards some of
serpentine and grey granite; and I observed some of quartz, and
very small particles of the latter disseminated over the sand.
There is a cataract at Lamulay, but it is not so loud as the one we
heard last night, at Uckma. The view is very fine at this part. We
were two hours in going from Lamulay to Tangoure. The rocks were
chiefly of two descriptions of quartz. We came then to another
cataract, making the sixth from Dongolah:—the first at<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_268">[268]</span> Hannek; the second at Kouki;
the third at Dahl; the fourth at Uckma; the fifth at Lamulay; and
the sixth at Tangoure. All these may be passed without much
difficulty for about six weeks or two months in the year; but at
this season no description of boats could pass. Between the
above-mentioned places the river and the rocks on the opposite side
make so many bends, first east and afterwards north-west, that our
roads, across the little deserts, on the west side might often be
considered as the strings of a bow. On the eastern side of the
river there seems to be a continued range of picturesque rocks. We
miss, I fear, much fine scenery in not being able to follow closely
the bank.</p>

<p>Two hours north of Tangoure there is said to be a spring of
mineral water, about 100 yards from the river, which flows in small
quantities out of the rock into an ancient reservoir, and is
described as so hot that the vapour will answer for a bath. I
regretted much not being able to visit it, but I must have gone on
foot, and, being to-day far from well, could not have endured the
excessive heat; but I have this information not only from the
natives, but also from Monsieur M., at Dongolah, who had visited
it. We started from Tangoure this afternoon, at half past two, and,
after five hours’ march, halted in the desert for the night. The
rocks are of granite, serpentine, porphyry schist, and quartz.
Strata of these minerals occurred, sometimes alternately, every few
minutes.</p>

<p><em>June</em> 13. Whenever there are antiquities to be seen, I
care not how little sleep I take. I had my men up soon after
midnight, and in three hours we arrived, as the sun was rising, at
the Temple of Semneh. This temple is more remarkable for its
situation than for architectural beauty. It consists of a single
narrow room 28 feet by 10 feet, with a plain façade, in the centre
of which is the entrance. The exterior sides of this room are
ornamented with square pillars, and one polygonal column. The
temple faces the south, which is singular, particularly for an
edifice constructed by an Egyptian king. On the eastern side are
three square pillars standing entire, and the base of another;
and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_269">[269]</span> on the western
one column, one square pillar, and the base of a third. The
<a href="#i23">view</a> shows this side, and also the façade of the
temple. The pillars sustain blocks of stone, that is, architraves,
which still remain, projecting about one foot beyond the columns. I
thought, at first, from this projection, that they might have
extended to other walls; in which case the edifice would have some
resemblance to the sanctuary in the small temple at Medenet Abou;
but, from there being no remains to support this supposition, and
also from the projection being very small, and, I might say, the
architrave’s extending so far beyond the centre of the column, I
conceive that the temple has never been finished, and the
architraves hewn to the size of the columns.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw15">
<figure id="i23"><a href="images/i23.jpg"><img src='images/i23.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">TEMPLE OF SEMNEH.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The interior and exterior of the walls of this little temple are
covered with sculpture and hieroglyphics; but, unfortunately, in
some parts, rather defaced. Over the entrance, the king is
represented on his knees making offerings to Kneph. The original
sculpture of part of the façade of the temple has been defaced to
make<span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">[270]</span> room for a
more modern work, and for a long tablet of hieroglyphics, which I
copied. The sculpture, from its style, is certainly Roman; the
figures not well drawn, and the hieroglyphics wretchedly executed:
the subject represents a woman, with a lotus flower, making
offerings to a divinity with the head-dress of the horns and two
feathers. The hieroglyphics and sculpture of every other part of
the temple are in a good style. The name and titles of Thothmes
III., Sun, Establisher of the World, is executed in intaglio on the
column and square pillars, and the same name in basso relievo is
every where visible on the walls. In the interior of the temple the
same subject is repeated four times, but in only one instance is
very distinguishable. (See <a href="#pl51">Plate LI.</a>) The king,
Thothmes III., is represented making offerings to his ancestor
Osirtesen, seated as a divinity in the boat of the sun, with the
crook and lash of Osiris in his hands.</p>

<p>Before Osirtesen are four standards, one with a representation
of the ibis, emblematical, no doubt, of Thoth: the others are not
visible. These standards are supported by arms emanating from the
cross of life, and the sceptres of the divinities; emblematical, I
conceive, of their being the standards of the gods, perhaps of the
divinities of Amenti, Thoth, Horus, and Anubis. One is of Thoth,
evidently, from the ibis; the others are defaced. The reader will
observe how different this style of sculpture (see <a href=
"#pl51">Plate LI.</a>), which is the best Egyptian, is to the
Ethiopian (see <a href="#pl10">Plate X.</a>). They have evidently
had a common origin; but there is a marked difference in the
execution. On the western side of the exterior of the temple the
king is represented making offerings to different divinities,
principally Kneph. I copied all the hieroglyphic inscriptions. The
hieroglyphics on the columns and pillars are merely the names of
Thothmes. The column which I have stated as polygonal has a base
and a square slab for its capital.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw11">
<figure id="pl51">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 51.</p>
<a href="images/pl51_large.jpg"><img src='images/pl51.jpg' alt=
''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>From a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins
Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp3">SCULPTURE IN THE TEMPLE OF SEMNEH.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>In the interior of the temple is the fragment of a statue of
Osiris, badly executed: the head is wanting, and on the breast is
the crook and lash. I conceive the style to be Egyptian Roman. It
is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">[271]</span> very probable
that this temple, originally dedicated to Kneph, was afterwards, in
the more corrupt Roman age, appropriated to the peculiar worship of
Osiris. This edifice (see <a href="#i24">Plan</a>) is in a large
irregular brick inclosure, the walls of which are generally seven
to eight feet thick: this is not of Egyptian, but apparently of
Roman, construction. In some parts masses of brick project from the
wall, perhaps to support them; their ruined state makes it
impossible to decide certainly, but I am inclined to believe them
to be entrances.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw15">
<figure id="i24"><a href="images/i24.jpg"><img src='images/i24.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">PLAN OF RUINS.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>I went to examine the pass or cataract of Semneh, which I had
some difficulty in reaching, having to climb for a considerable
space over the granite rocks. The latter are generally
rose-coloured, extremely hard; but there are some rocks of basalt
shining like black lead, and I observed light thin strata of
quartz. The width<span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">[272]</span>
of this channel, the only one the Nile passes through, when it is
low, I found to be a stone-cast. The river rushes through with
great rapidity, so that I could not cross here from the number of
vortices caused by the excessive force and velocity of the
current.</p>

<p><em>June</em> 14. Wishing to pass over the river to the temple
on the opposite side, I commissioned the sheakh to collect the
inhabitants, and make me some kind of boat. This morning, at eleven
o’clock, he came to inform me that a raft was ready, and men to
steer it. My Arabs having taken the camels and dromedaries to
pasture at a distance from the temple, I was obliged to set out on
foot, and, after walking three quarters of an hour, amid severe
heat, I arrived at the place where they intended to cross, fully
two miles south of the pass or cataract. The river in this part is
about a third of a mile wide, and, except in one or two places,
where the current is rather strong, it was scarcely ruffled. The
peasants had constructed two rafts, one for ourselves, the other
for the servants. They were simply trunks of the acacia lashed
together, on which they placed dourah for us to sit on. All the
inhabitants of the country were collected to see the expedition.
Ten or twelve men, some on geerbahs (water-skins), others on pieces
of wood, supported and conducted each raft, two or three on each
side, and four behind, pushing it along. Doubting the security of
the boat, I had taken the precaution to take off my clothes, and
fasten them on my head, like the Arabs. This was fortunate; for the
dourah straw was soon saturated with water.</p>

<p>Nothing could be more picturesque than the boats and their
conductors. The Arabs had all their clothes tied on their heads,
and they carried their charms, arms, knives, swords and spears,
fastened in the same manner. Shouting and singing, they pushed us
across very cleverly: the only difficulty was in passing the parts
where the current was strong. We had also some little fear of the
crocodiles. Three Turks shot two in this very place only two months
ago, and yesterday we saw one on the shore. The peasants
at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">[273]</span> first refused to
take us across for this reason, but the promise of a few piastres
more, and the use of my firman, silenced their fears. I did not
myself conceive that there was the slightest real danger on this
account, as I have observed that the crocodile invariably flies
from boats or any number of persons together. After landing we had
another three quarters of an hour of fatiguing walk to the temple
on the eastern side, which (see <a href="#i25">General View</a>) is
almost exactly opposite the other. Some parts of our road was over
low burning sand-hills, in which we sunk at each step up to our
ankles; the heat excessive under a directly vertical sun.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw15">
<figure id="i25"><a href="images/i25.jpg"><img src='images/i25.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">TEMPLE OF SEMNEH.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p><em>Temple at Semneh. East side of the river.</em>—In the first
chamber of this temple the door-posts of the entrance remain, and
also two polygonal columns without their capitals, and two square
pillars. (See <a href="#i26">vignette.</a>) The lateral walls seem
to have joined the latter; both the square pillars and columns were
ornamented with hieroglyphics, of which the names of Thothmes III.
are now only distinguishable. The names, however, of Amunoph III.
and Thothmes II. occur in this temple. The entrance into the
next<span class="pagenum" id="Page_274">[274]</span> room is filled
with rubbish up to the architrave; the latter is ornamented with
the winged globe, and a dedicatory tablet of hieroglyphics. There
is also another door to the right of this, leading into the
interior, with a similar tablet on the architrave. The walls were
decorated with sculpture in a good style, but now much defaced. In
one place I distinguished the head of Kneph, and elsewhere the same
god receiving splendid offerings of vases, fruits, &amp;c. from the
King Thothmes, sun, establisher of the world. In another part, the
king, with the head-dress of the small globe, two feathers, and
horns, is receiving the cross of life from a divinity with a beard
and no head-dress, perhaps Amun Ra. Behind this latter figure is
the god Kneph again, with his usual attributes of the ram’s head
and horns.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw15">
<figure id="i26"><a href="images/i26.jpg"><img src='images/i26.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">PLAN OF THE TEMPLE OF SEMNEH.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>These two entrances lead into a long gallery full of sand and
rubbish. I excavated below the level of the centre doorway into the
gallery, but it is singular that I could discover no entrance into
the sanctuary of the temple corresponding with it. The only one I
found is on the right side. There are three other rooms,
one<span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">[275]</span> containing a
column. I believe they are marked accurately in the above <a href=
"#i26">Plan;</a> but, to ascertain very correctly how they are
connected, would have required more extensive excavations than my
time permitted, nor did I think it worth any sacrifice, for the
plan is evidently bad. The sculpture of these rooms is almost
buried in the sand. There are slight traces of colour remaining. At
a short distance south-east of the temple, on the granite rocks,
are some hieroglyphical inscriptions, but very rudely executed. I
copied five that were legible; they contain the names of Thothmes
III. and Amunoph III.</p>

<p>These rocks are interesting as the last hiding-place of the Arab
robber, Isah; and it was in this neighbourhood that daring brigand
finally met his fate. Isah was a sheakh of the Karareesh tribe. A
katshef, near his residence, having threatened him with the
bastinado, unless he submitted to some exorbitant demand, he
preferred abandoning his domestic happiness, and the peace and
quiet of agricultural life, to such galling and vexatious tyranny.
He fled into the fastnesses of the desert, and there, with a few
chosen followers, bade defiance to the Pasha’s power. He infested
the caravan road from Korosko to Abouhammed; and the Dilet el Doum,
or the Valley of the Shade of the Doums, was his favourite resort.
He was the terror of all the caravans, like the lion of the desert;
only allowing them to pass when they had satisfied his demand: but
it was against the government that he was most active, plundering
their caravans laden with grain and other produce received as
taxes, and seizing the numerous herds of cattle which are sent down
to Cairo every year, the spoil of the war on the Bahr el Abiad and
the Azruk. He sometimes also succeeded in seizing the supplies of
ammunition and arms from Cairo; but, what was very annoying to the
Turkish governors, he frequently seized the caravans bringing them
supplies of tobacco, coffee, sugar, and other luxuries. For five
years this daring outlaw eluded every attempt to seize him. The
governors made the most strenuous efforts to obtain his head,
and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_276">[276]</span> the Pasha
engaged the Ababde to hunt him from the great Nubian desert. His
troop generally consisted of about twenty; and when, for any
important expedition, he required a greater force, Arabs were never
wanting to plunder the Turkish caravans. Most of the sheakhs have
an immense number of relations; often every individual in their
village is a connection; and when their chief is in peril, or
requires their services, they consider themselves bound to rally
around his standard, at whatever sacrifice or hazard. His wife,
like Rob Roy’s, shared her husband’s dangers; and his daughter,
Enour, is said to have had as stout a heart as her father, and as
much address in throwing the lance as any Arab of her tribe. For
five years they shared the perils of this bold brigand; but at last
Isah, driven out of the Ababde desert, was betrayed by an Arab
sheakh of this neighbourhood, who professed to be his friend. This
man, either from fear of the Pasha’s anger, or in the hope of
obtaining additional power and wealth by such an essential service,
conducted a company of soldiers to the valley where he was
secreted, and Isah, while sleeping under the shade of a rock, was
shot dead. His death was instantaneous, for it is said that twenty
bullets entered his body. His followers fled; but the fidelity of
one of them was ultimately rewarded with the hand of his daughter,
Enour.</p>

<p>I returned to the ruin on the western bank by the same route,
but having passed the river, I fortunately found a donkey, which,
though a poor one, afforded me some assistance in ascending to the
temple.</p>

<p>These edifices are not remarkable for their architecture; but
nothing can be finer than their situation. They are in sight of,
and almost opposite to, each other, on eminences commanding one of
the finest views in the Batn el Hadjar. This view has been compared
by some travellers to Tivoli; but, besides other dissimilarities,
there is here no ugly, ill-built, dirty, modern town, that detracts
from the beautiful situation of the antiquities. The<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_277">[277]</span> prospects near the western
temple are very magnificent; Signor B.’s view, <a href=
"#pl45">Plate XLV.,</a> will give a just idea of the country: but
the magical effect of the desert, contrasted with the surrounding
scenery, can be but imperfectly conveyed to the reader’s mind,
without a view coloured, as this was, on the spot, exhibiting
faithfully the different tints. I regret not being able to publish
the numerous views as they were coloured on the spot by Signor
B.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw4">
<figure id="pl45">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 45.</p>
<a href="images/pl45.jpg"><img src='images/pl45.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by W. P. Sherlock from a Drawing
by L. Bandoni.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">RUINS OF SEMNEH,<br>
<span class="cp2">on the East & West Sides of the River.</span></p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The peasants here are of a dark-brown complexion, and wear their
hair bushy, but less so than the Ababde. They are poor, but have
the character of being honest. Some of them understand and speak
the Arabic, but the language of the country is the Nubian.</p>

<p><em>June</em> 15. We started for Wady Halfah, and, after six
hours, halted for the night in the desert. The rocks are of
serpentine and granite: this desert consists of immense plains
covered with sand-hills, and is quite different from the last we
passed over, not being so wild and dreary.</p>

<p><em>June</em> 16. We started three hours before day, and pushing
on our dromedaries, arrived at sunrise at the second cataract.
According to the practice of almost every traveller who visits the
valley of the Nile, I had made this the limit of my first journey,
performed in 1832; but I was not then half so much astonished at
the peculiarity and magnificence of this scene. I did not see it at
so favourable a season, and, perhaps, I appreciate it the more from
the delight I feel that, although I have still a voyage of nearly
1000 miles before I reach Alexandria, my fatigues may now be
considered nearly finished, as this day I change the slow and
tiresome pace of the caravan for the comparatively luxurious
cangia. The effect of the rising sun on the black shining basaltic
rocks which project into the river, forming innumerable islands, is
very striking, and the picturesque beauty of some of these is
heightened by the curious contrast with the stripes of light yellow
sand which are mixed with them. These little rocky islands,
impeding and compressing the current, increase<span class="pagenum"
id="Page_278">[278]</span> tenfold its force; and the white foaming
river, dashing over the rocks, makes the colour of the dark shining
basalt still more remarkable, while the roar of its waters animates
the scene. There is also a striking contrast of the black basalt
with the white calcareous rock, tinted with red and other hues,
which forms the foreground. The beauty of the scene, although
peculiar, is not diminished by this contrast, any more than the
often lovely form of the dark Abyssinian girl is disfigured by the
snow-white veil which covers her.</p>

<p>I have seen the beauties of the Alps, the Apennines, Arcadia,
and the Pyrenees; I have surveyed the lakes of Bavaria, England,
Italy, Scotland, and Switzerland; I have followed the Rhine from
Schaffhausen to the sea, and sailed on the Danube, the Rhone, and
many other rivers; but I must confess I never was more moved by any
view than this. I mean not to compare it to the landscapes of
Europe for magnificence, or what is generally considered
picturesque effect. This is a view of an extraordinary and peculiar
kind; for, besides the singularities of the landscape already
described, there are associations connected with it which cannot
but excite the traveller. The very solitude of the scene, where no
habitation of man is visible;—the extent of the view beyond the
cataract, along an immense desert of yellow sand, extending over
the vast continent of Africa;—then the river, forcing its passage
through the rocks, that threaten to stop the progress by which it
carries to thousands, and even millions, the means of
subsistence;—and shall I say nothing of the mystery which hangs
over it? On its banks, perhaps, first flourished the arts; its
source is hidden in impenetrable obscurity, as is also the greater
part of the historical events which the bordering countries have
witnessed. The effect of the rising sun gives a magical lustre to
the rocks, extremely difficult, if not impossible, to exhibit in a
drawing. I made a camera lucida outline of it, and Signor B. made a
drawing in colours of the peculiar tints and<span class="pagenum"
id="Page_279">[279]</span> effects. When the Nile is high, it is
more picturesque, as, of course, there are then more islands.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw6">
<figure id="pl50">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 50.</p>
<a href="images/pl50.jpg"><img src='images/pl50.jpg' alt=''></a>
<table class="width-full">
<tr>
<td class="tdl ipub"><em>On stone by C. Hullmandel from a Drawing
by G. A. Hoskins Esq<sup>r</sup>.</em>
</td>
<td class="tdr ipub"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p class="cp1">2<sup>D</sup>. CATARACT OF THE NILE.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>Numerous names of travellers are engraved on the calcareous
rock; this place being, as I have said, almost always the limit of
their voyage. Some few make an excursion into the Batn el Hadjar;
but fatigued with the first two or three days’ journey on camels,
they seldom proceed beyond Semneh, and still more rarely, if ever,
extend their journey to Solib, one of the most magnificent ruins in
the valley of the Nile. The extreme heat of these climates,
particularly during this season, is certainly trying to European
constitutions. As far as the second cataract, travellers visit the
antiquities, comparatively speaking, without any fatigue; in their
boats they suffer little from the heat, and they have seldom any
distance to walk, as all the ruins are on the banks. I, however,
strongly recommend those who are really fond of antiquities, and
are possessed of a good constitution, to complete their tour of the
Nile. Travellers visit with great fatigue the sites of Sparta,
Troy, and even Carthage, where there are no monuments to recompense
the toil. It is true that the recollections recalled by such scenes
must amply indemnify us; but in the Island of Meroe we have
splendid and most interesting works of art, an infinity of
sepulchres, which, from their number and extremely elegant
architecture, could only have belonged to the metropolis of that
ancient kingdom: and what more thrilling, exciting association
could the traveller desire, than the circumstance that in that
region the arts had their origin?</p>

<p>The antiquities of the Island of Meroe, as will have been seen,
are not the only remains to indemnify the traveller for his
fatigues. The interesting site of Gibel el Birkel, with its
extensive, picturesque, and curious monuments; the pyramids of
Nouri, the colossal statues of Argo, and the temples of Solib and
Semneh, are all interesting in the extreme; and, besides the
antiquities, the traveller cannot but be interested in the manners
and customs of a people who have not yet adopted those of their
conquerors.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_280">[280]</span> A
knowledge of the desert life, and the different tribes of Arabs, is
only to be acquired by a journey of this description through their
different districts.</p>

<p>Some of the views of the desert are, to those unaccustomed to
them, somewhat appalling,—boundless oceans of sand; rocks affording
little or no shade to the traveller, and covered, sometimes, with
hills of light sand, which appear to want only a storm to put them
in motion; and it is a dreadful sight to see the road strewed with
the bodies of men and animals, victims of the scorching clime and
great fatigue.</p>

<p>Often, when the wind has covered with sand the traces of former
caravans, we have no other beacon than the small piles of stones
which the Arabs occasionally erect on the eminences; but an almost
infallible guide to our steps is afforded by the bones which lie
bleaching on the road. Yet this is the dark side of the picture:
the desert life has its charms, which are only enhanced by these
dangers. We are there independent, perfectly free from the
restraints of the world, and those passions which agitate man in
society.</p>

<p>All feel a pleasure in gazing on the ocean, and (when well) in
sailing on its bosom; but the desert life is still more delightful.
I feel it difficult to analyse this sentiment, and yet I strongly
feel it. At sea we are mere passengers; we take no share in
avoiding the dangers which threaten us; our powers are not called
into action; we feel a certain excitement, but, of course, less
than the captain and sailors, on whom all depends: and is not this
a reason why the latter are so attached to that kind of life,
notwithstanding the numerous and severe hardships which they have
to undergo?</p>

<p>The traveller in the desert is, to a certain degree, similarly
situated. As head of the caravan, its safety depends mainly on the
prudential measures which he adopts. Appointing a guard in case of
danger, encamping in a judicious situation in case of a<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_281">[281]</span> storm, attention to secure a
supply of water, and to prevent the Arabs from consuming, as they
would willingly do, two days’ portion in one day, are cares which
keep his mind constantly occupied. A judicious choice of camels,
drivers, and servants; a just distribution of their labour, and
attention to their maintenance, lessen the chance of being detained
by illness.</p>

<p>Well supplied with rice, good biscuit, and meat, the traveller
may live tolerably well, even in the deserts. Since I left Thebes,
four months and a half ago, I have passed two deserts of eight days
each, and many small ones, and generally been in a miserable
country, yet I have only been one day without fresh meat, and that
by accident. To court privations is as great folly as to fear them
when they arrive, and not submit to them cheerfully when requisite.
I am certain that wine and spirituous liquors are injurious in this
climate. During the whole of this journey water has been my only
beverage; and, on the whole, I have enjoyed very tolerable health,
considering the excessive heat, and the many annoyances and delays,
still more injurious in this climate than the fatiguing pace of the
camel. The desert life has also another charm; it is gratifying to
see how, when treated as men, the Arabs become attached to you. If
they have any quarrel between each other, a word from the traveller
makes them silent.</p>

<p>At sea, it is a pleasure to observe the colour and motion of the
waters; to see the dolphins playing at the ship’s head; and
sometimes, as in the Mediterranean, the surface of the waters
animated by their singular forms. The Nile has its crocodiles and
hippopotami; every desert also presents something new,—lions,
panthers, hyenas, wolves, serpents, gazelles, antelopes, giraffes,
ostriches, guinea-fowls, wild asses, zebras, &amp;c. The traveller
may have seen all these in menageries in Europe; it is, however, a
great pleasure to see or hear them in their native haunts. The
deserts have also a great charm for the traveller who has any
taste<span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">[282]</span> for
mineralogy, then each rock, each pebble, each step, I may say, is
interesting. During a sea voyage, we read, and scarcely look at the
water once a day: in the deserts, on the contrary, our attention is
continually occupied by the transition of rocks, their formation,
the minerals which are disseminated on, and mixed with, the
sand.</p>

<p>At sea, it is a pleasure to meet another vessel, to hail her,
and demand where she is from, and to what port she is bound; and we
often experience delight at finding the passing crew to be
countrymen, perhaps relations, or friends: but what pen can
describe the meeting of a caravan in the desert? Brothers, who have
not seen each other for months, and even years, often meet thus, by
accident. The caravan never stops; they have, therefore, only a few
moments, and they must part again, and run after their camels.
Their hands locked together, they inquire after each other’s
health, and after that of their friends. Travellers laugh at the
repeated “<em>Taip een salamat, taip een salamat</em>,” of the
Arabs. “How do you do?—Good morning! How do you do?—Good morning!”
repeated twenty times; and “<em>Taip een abouk? taip een ahouk?
taip een omek?</em>” “How is your father? How is your brother? How
is your mother?” &amp;c. always repeating the <em>taip een?</em>
“how is?” to each person that they name. The indifference with
which the Fellaheen, who see each other daily, go through this
ceremony, may seem rather ridiculous; but in the deserts, as I have
seen them sometimes, even with tears starting from their eyes,
affection could not dictate a stronger and more appropriate manner
of inquiring rapidly, but particularly and separately, after each
relation and friend who is dear to them. Frequently have I observed
my Arabs meeting with their friends of other tribes, and even of
their own district or village, and witnessed the pure and natural
joy which illuminated their countenances; friends who have
travelled together, shared the same toils, the same
dangers—companions of their youth, of their early voyages, who have
not seen each other for years, meet in the solitudes of the
wilderness, but for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_283">[283]</span>
a moment only, and the same period may elapse before they again see
each other. Let it not be supposed that, in the interior of Africa,
the natives, although ignorant and uncultivated, are destitute of
honest affection.</p>

<p>It is, however, true, that sometimes in the desert we trace
those violent passions and habits which generally characterise the
wandering tribes of Central Africa. The Bishareen, and others,
often plunder the caravans; and tribes occasionally meet between
whom there have been constant feuds. Under the strong government of
the Pasha, they now seldom make use of their arms; but they
exchange no salutes: their silent manner of passing each other, the
knitted brow, and involuntary firmer grasp of their spears and
swords, evince the deadly hatred which still lurks secretly in
their breasts.</p>

<hr class="chap">

<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_284">[284]</span><a id=
"c19"></a>CHAPTER XIX.</h2>

<p class="sch">ON THE HISTORY OF MEROE.</p>

<p class="csum">OBSCURITY OF HER ANNALS. — HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS
NECESSARY TO RENDER A COUNTRY INTERESTING. — WORKS OF ART
HISTORICAL DOCUMENTS. — LAPIDARY INSCRIPTIONS. — AMUNOPH III. —
MEMNON, KING OF ETHIOPIA. — EXPEDITION OF SEMIRAMIS, QUEEN OF
ASSYRIA, INTO ETHIOPIA. — ETHIOPIANS IN THE ARMY OF SHISHAK MARCHED
TO JERUSALEM. — THE SUKKIIMS OF SCRIPTURE. — EXPEDITION OF ZERAH,
THE ETHIOPIAN KING OF THE BIBLE, AND HIS DEFEAT BY THE TRIBES OF
JUDAH AND BENJAMIN. — THE ETHIOPIAN DYNASTY OF KINGS WHO REIGNED
OVER EGYPT. — THE TESTIMONY OF THE HISTORIANS PROVED BY LAPIDARY
INSCRIPTIONS. — THE NAME OF TIRHAKA, KING OF ETHIOPIA, WHO DEFEATED
SENNACHERIB, KING OF ASSYRIA, FOUND BOTH ON THE MONUMENTS OF EGYPT
AND ETHIOPIA. — THE NAMES AND TITLES OF THIS DYNASTY OF KINGS. —
ACCORDANCE OF THE SCRIPTURAL, MONUMENTAL, AND HISTORICAL EVIDENCES.
— THE SETHOS OF HERODOTUS, THE TIRHAKA OF SCRIPTURE, AND OF THE
MONUMENTS. — THE SUA, KING OF EGYPT OF THE BIBLE, THE SEVECHUS OF
MANETHO, AND THE SHABATOK OF THE MONUMENTS.</p>

<p class="nind"><span class="sc">The</span> Island of Meroe is a
classic region, whose name is familiar to almost every reader, as
the cradle of arts and civilisation. The Nile was the source of her
prosperity, and an object of adoration to the ancient, and even to
the present inhabitants<a id="FNanchor_49"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a>; yet most of the great
events which have given celebrity to the countries on its banks,
are lost in impenetrable obscurity. The names even of the kings
under whom she rose to such a height of greatness and power are
almost wholly unknown. So scanty are the materials which can be
found in the ancient writings and on the monuments, that it is
almost an act of presumption to attempt, in the slightest degree,
to penetrate the veil which envelopes her history.</p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_285">[285]</span>Professor
Rosellini, in his extensive and admirable work on the antiquities
of Egypt, has made many valuable observations on the dynasty of
Ethiopian kings who reigned in that country, which have facilitated
my researches; and I gladly testify, that the ruins in Ethiopia, in
many instances, confirm the conclusions which that learned
traveller drew from his examination of the monuments of Egypt.
Availing myself of the inquiries of the learned Italian, I shall
also put together the most important fragments contained in
history, and the valuable lapidary inscriptions I have been able to
copy from the antiquities. A country is always interesting, to
which we feel ourselves indebted for inventions from which we now
derive any important benefit; and as a nation thus rises in our
estimation, we become anxious to form an acquaintance with its
historical records. There is a charm even in its name, when it
recalls to our memory heroic deeds and other important
associations.</p>

<p>It is not merely the wonders of art, surprising as they are,
which enchant the traveller at Rome and Athens. It is not the vast
pile of the Coliseum, the triumphal arches and temples in the
Forum, the exquisitely chaste architecture of the Temple of Theseus
and of the edifices on the Acropolis, but the crowd of thrilling
recollections of the heroism, genius, philosophy, and art, by which
these scenes were illustrated, that render them for ever classic
and hallowed in our eyes. Had there been no records of the history
of Athens, we should have wanted no other evidence of her
civilisation and knowledge than the splendid architectural
monuments with which her site is adorned. The Parthenon itself
speaks volumes, and the most eloquent pages of her greatest
historians do not bear more conclusive testimony to her
civilisation, than the treasures of Grecian art and taste in the
museums of Europe. Had all the written records of her valour and
patriotism perished, our knowledge of Athens would have been very
nearly what it now is in regard to Ethiopia. The labours of the
historians of her land<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_286">[286]</span> are lost; the brilliant deeds which adorned
her annals are enveloped in a cloud of mystery. The history of her
neighbours affords only a few scanty gleams, sufficient to make us
deplore the general darkness. So changed is the kingdom of Meroe
from what it must once have been, that I myself should have almost
doubted the short but important passages preserved in the Greek and
Latin authors, were they not triumphantly confirmed by the
monuments existing at Meroe and Gibel el Birkel.</p>

<p>The reader will, I trust, find in this and the following
chapters, that Ethiopia was not unjustly celebrated for
civilisation, and as the birth-place of many arts which now
contribute highly to our welfare and enjoyment; and the few
fragments we have been enabled to glean will prove that she had
also her kings and heroes, and that her history was diversified by
the usual vicissitudes of triumphs and reverses. I am obliged to
refrain from publishing, on the present occasion, all the names of
the kings and inscriptions which I found on the edifices of Meroe,
Gibel el Birkel, Solib, Semneh, Toumbos, and Amarah.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw13">
<figure id="pl53">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 53.</p>
<a href="images/pl53_large.jpg"><img src='images/pl53.jpg' alt=
''></a>
<p class="ipubr"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</p>

<p class="cp3">GREAT TEMPLE, GIBEL EL BIRKEL.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<div class="figcenterplate iw13">
<figure id="pl54">
<p class="platelabel">Pl. 54.</p>
<a href="images/pl54_large.jpg"><img src='images/pl54.jpg' alt=
''></a>
<p class="cp5"><em>Inscriptions at Meroe.</em>
</p>

<p class="cp5"><em>Inscriptions at Gibel el Birkel.</em>
</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Printed by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>For the benefit of the learned, who peculiarly apply themselves
to this study, I give, however, a few of those inscriptions, which,
mutilated and imperfect as some of them are, the initiated in the
recent discoveries in hieroglyphics will immediately perceive to be
of the greatest importance, as the earliest undoubted records of
Ethiopian history. The inscriptions in Plates <a href=
"#pl52">LII.</a> and <a href="#pl53">LIII.,</a> the hieroglyphics
of the Plates <a href="#pl10">X.</a> <a href="#pl11">XI.</a> and
<a href="#pl12">XII.</a> of sculpture of Meroe, and also many I am
unable to publish, are curious, not only for the names, but for the
singular titles which they contain, for the mythology, the
variations in the appellations of the divinities, the names of
places, and other valuable historical matter.<a id=
"FNanchor_50"></a><a href="#Footnote_50" class=
"fnanchor">[50]</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_287">[287]</span>
Many scientific men have urged me to publish the whole of these
inscriptions; and Signor Rosellini informed me that he should add
another volume to his work from these materials. I hope this able
writer will not forget his promise, and will excuse my employing it
as an apology for not undertaking the interpretation of any portion
of them myself; as such an attempt, on my part, would only be
unsatisfactory to the learned, and tiresome to the general
reader.</p>

<div class="linegrp-container">
<div class="linegrp">
<div class="group">
<div class="line indent0">“Non nostrum tantas componere
lites.”</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>

<p>The monuments of Egypt afford historical evidence of the wars
between that country and Ethiopia, during the 18th dynasty; that
is, from about the 13th to the 16th century before Christ. In the
topographical description I stated that the temples of Semneh were
built by the Egyptian king Thothmes III. I have been told that
scarabæi have been found, with the name of this king, opposite
Gibel el Birkel.<a id="FNanchor_51"></a><a href="#Footnote_51"
class="fnanchor">[51]</a> Amunoph III., the Memnon of the Greeks,
has also left, as a monument of his victories still farther in
Ethiopia, the splendid Temple of Solib. I thought, at first, that
this was the Amunoph mentioned by Josephus, who, at the second
invasion of the Shepherds, took refuge in Ethiopia until
he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_288">[288]</span> had collected an
army, and his son Sethos, or Rameses, was of a sufficient age to
lead it against the insurgents: but both Eusebius and Africanus
agree in calling Sethos the first king of the 19th dynasty:
therefore, as the Temple of Solib bears the name of Amunoph, with
the prænomen of <span class="copt">Ⲣⲏ-ⲛⲉⲃ-ⲛⲧⲙⲉ</span>, “Sun, Lord
of Truth,” it is of the eighth king of the 18th dynasty, and not
the last: besides, the representations of the countries conquered
by that king are still preserved, and prove, by some of them having
the features of negroes, that the splendid Temple of Solib was
erected as a monument of his victory and long possession of the
country, and not of a mere alliance with the King of
Ethiopia.<a id="FNanchor_52"></a><a href="#Footnote_52" class=
"fnanchor">[52]</a></p>

<p>The successor of Amunoph III., Amulek, or, perhaps, more
correctly, Horus, as Eusebius and Africanus call him, must, I
conceive, from an inscription I saw at Turin, have also carried his
arms into the interior of Africa; but Herodotus<a id=
"FNanchor_53"></a><a href="#Footnote_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a>
states, that only Rameses II. (Sesostris) made himself master of
Ethiopia; and it is singular, as I have stated in the account of
the ruins of Gibel el Birkel, that the only fragment of the name of
an Egyptian king which I saw, either there or at Meroe, was half of
the name of Rameses II., which I found, by accident, in the Arab
burial-ground at the former place. This is an extraordinary
corroboration of the testimony of the historian;<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_289">[289]</span> for that conqueror must have
possessed that Ethiopian city for a sufficient length of time to
erect or restore a temple; otherwise I should not have found his
name.</p>

<p>Diodorus mentions that, when Egypt was suffering under the
dominion of Amasis, a violent, proud, and arrogant man, Aktisanes,
king of Ethiopia, profiting by the discontent of the people,
invaded Egypt, and had little difficulty in overthrowing the
tyrant, and taking possession of the country, as the greater number
of his subjects were weary of his oppression, and rebelled against
him. Aktisanes, he adds, was a great prince, and built a city,
called Rhinocolura, on the confines of Syria and Egypt, and
detained there the thieves whom he had punished with the loss of
their noses; from which circumstance Rhinocolura had its name.
Eusebius, Africanus, and Herodotus do not mention this king.
Diodorus’s account is difficult to explain; for his Amasis cannot
be the Amasis of Manetho, the first of the 18th dynasty; as
Diodorus places his Amasis several reigns after Sesostris or
Rameses II. As there are no traces of the name of this king on the
monuments either of Ethiopia or Egypt, I see no reason why we
should receive the testimony of Diodorus, to the prejudice of other
historians; and, doubting, as I do, whether such a king ever
reigned in Egypt, I think it unnecessary to enter into any
discussion about the period of his reign.</p>

<p>We have also, about this time, an account of another king, whose
name is familiar to the classical scholar,—Memnon, the son of
Aurora, who killed Antilochus<a id="FNanchor_54"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a> in the Trojan war; and
again, in the same poem<a id="FNanchor_55"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a>, he is called the most
beautiful of warriors, the brother of Priam; and Hesiod calls him
the son of Aurora, and the king of the Ethiopians. Monsieur
Letronne, in his learned work on the vocal statue of Memnon, has
treated the whole story as a romance; but though we may refuse our
credence to the embellishments<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_290">[290]</span> of the Greek poets, tragic writers, and
historians, I must confess myself of the opinion of those who
believe in the possibility that the statement of a king of Ethiopia
of that name having gone to the assistance of Troy may, perhaps,
not be without foundation. The distance was certainly very great;
but navigation by the Nile, or the Red Sea, would obviate, in a
great measure, that difficulty; and it is not much more
extraordinary to read of an Ethiopian king going to the relief of
Troy in the 13th century before the Christian era, than, in the
tenth century, to read of a king, called Zerah, who, with a host of
a thousand thousand, went unto Maresha; and, in the 8th century, we
find that Tirhaka assisted the King of Israel against Sennacherib,
which event I will presently relate. History, both ancient and
modern, affords many instances of wars between very distant states,
and of expeditions sent against remote kingdoms, often even from
continent to continent. I think, therefore, that it is not very
surprising that the Ethiopian king, Memnon, should go with his
troops from Meroe to Troy, either to assist his relation, or, at
the instigation of some neighbour, to join in the common defence
against the Greek invasion.<a id="FNanchor_56"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a></p>

<p>In the 11th century before the Christian era, Semiramis, the
celebrated queen of Assyria, fearless of those deserts in which,
according to the fable, she was exposed when an infant,
invaded<span class="pagenum" id="Page_291">[291]</span> Ethiopia.
Notwithstanding the celebrity of the Assyrian heroine for cutting
through mountains, filling up valleys, and conveying water, by
costly aqueducts, to unfruitful plains and vast deserts, it does
not seem that her success in subduing Ethiopia was very great.
Diodorus only mentions her admiration of a wonderful lake, 160 feet
square, of a vermilion colour, which sent forth a delicious smell,
not unlike old wine, and of such wonderful efficacy, that whoever
drank of it acknowledged the sins which he had long since secretly
committed and forgotten. That the kingdom of Meroe was the part of
Ethiopia invaded by her is not improbable. Her mortified vanity at
not having succeeded in her enterprise, the reflections caused by
the dangers and solitudes of the deserts, or the influence of the
religion of Ammon, may have been the monitors that awakened the
guilty conscience of the Assyrian queen.</p>

<p>The next occasion on which we find mention made of an Ethiopian
army is the expedition of Shishak against Jerusalem, in 971
<span class="sc2">A.C.</span> That monarch is represented as
bringing 1200 chariots and 60,000 horsemen; and “the people were
without number that came with him out of Egypt; the Lubims, and the
Sukkiims, and the Ethiopians.”<a id="FNanchor_57"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a> The Ethiopians and Lubims
are called a “huge host, with very many chariots and
horsemen.”<a id="FNanchor_58"></a><a href="#Footnote_58" class=
"fnanchor">[58]</a> These Ethiopians may have come from a district
of their country which was subject to Shishak, as we see, recorded
on the monuments at Thebes, not only the invasion of Judea,
mentioned in the Bible, but also victories achieved by that warlike
king over various other nations. It is not, however, improbable
that the Ethiopians were merely assisting the Egyptians. The
Sukkiims are considered by many to be the ancient Troglodytes, the
ancestors, perhaps, of the present Bishareen; there is certainly a
curious resemblance between<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_292">[292]</span> the name of the present capital of the
latter tribe, Souakim, and their Scripture title, Sukkiim.</p>

<p>Sixteen years only after this event we have an account of
another invasion of the Ethiopians. “So Abijah slept with his
fathers, and they buried him in the city of David: and Asa his son
reigned in his stead. In his days the land was quiet ten years.”
“And Asa had an army of men that bare targets and spears, out of
Judah three hundred thousand; and out of Benjamin, that bare
shields and drew bows, two hundred and fourscore thousand: all
these were mighty men of valour. And there came out against them
Zerah the Ethiopian, with an host of a thousand thousand, and three
hundred chariots; and came unto Mareshah. Then Asa went out against
him, and they set the battle in array in the valley of Zephathah at
Mareshah. And Asa cried unto the <span class="sc">Lord</span> his
God.”<a id="FNanchor_59"></a><a href="#Footnote_59" class=
"fnanchor">[59]</a> “So the <span class="sc">Lord</span> smote the
Ethiopians before Asa, and before Judah; and the Ethiopians fled.
And Asa and the people that were with him pursued them unto Gerar:
and the Ethiopians were overthrown, that they could not recover
themselves.”<a id="FNanchor_60"></a><a href="#Footnote_60" class=
"fnanchor">[60]</a></p>

<p>I conceive that the army of Zerah, like that of Memnon, and
those, perhaps, who assisted Shishak, may have been transported
from their own country, by the navigation of the Red Sea. It has
been objected by some, that Zerah could not have been king of
Ethiopia above Egypt, without being master of the latter country:
but not only was the way by the Red Sea shorter, and much more
convenient, but the kings of Meroe at that time may have possessed
a part of Arabia, and he may thus have marched his army through the
peninsula. We may, however, reasonably suppose, that he would not
have undertaken such an important war against the people of Judah,
if he had apprehended any impediment to his progress, from such
near and powerful neighbours as the<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_293">[293]</span> Egyptians and Arabians. I see no more
reason to doubt that this Zerah was a king of Meroe, than that
Tirhaka was such, who bears the same title in Scripture, of king of
Ethiopia. The monuments of Egypt and Ethiopia, fortunately, confirm
the correctness of the title of the latter, and show us that
Tirhaka, called king of Ethiopia, in the Bible, was also king of
Meroe; but because no vestiges of edifices constructed by Zerah
have survived the almost complete destruction of Ethiopian
monuments, there is no reason why we should conceive that the
Ethiopia of which he is called king is not the same country which
Tirhaka afterwards ruled.</p>

<p>The army of Zerah, which is stated in the Bible at a thousand
thousand, that is, a million of men, may seem enormous; and,
perhaps, this is only a vague expression of an almost innumerable
host; but we must consider, that the tribe of Judah raised an army
of 300,000, and that of Benjamin 280,000, to oppose him. The
obligation, still customary, for every one who could bear arms to
join the array of their king, accounts for the magnitude of their
forces. Their duty, as vassals, would oblige the Ethiopians to join
the standards of their chiefs, and the same cause, joined to the
more noble motives of zeal and devotedness for their country and
religion, would draw from their more peaceful avocations the sons
of Judah and Benjamin. The latter are described as armed with
targets, spears, shields, and bows: such would be precisely the
equipment of an army in the centre of Africa at the present day;
but the Ethiopian had also three hundred chariots, which at once
denotes a people to a certain degree advanced in the art of war.
Whatever might be the circumstances which enabled Zerah to collect
together this immense army, we could not have a more striking proof
of the extent and the affluent condition of the kingdom of Meroe,
when we consider that she was able to support the expense of such a
vast and distant expedition, and dispense, for so long a period,
with the services of so many of her sons.</p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_294">[294]</span>The events
hitherto mentioned as connected with the history of Meroe have been
important, as showing her political importance at a very early
period. We have seen her successfully repelling the invasions of
Semiramis, and of her powerful neighbours the Egyptians, and
carrying her arms to the succour of the Trojans, and to attack the
people of Judah.</p>

<p>We come now to that glorious epoch in the annals of Ethiopia,
when her kings reigned not only over their native country, but over
the entire valley of the Nile, including the whole of Egypt. We
shall see that Sennacherib, king of Assyria, felt their power.
Their dominion embraced nations of every variety of colour and
character, from Memphis to the interior of Africa. It is highly
satisfactory to know, that the account of this dynasty of Ethiopian
kings who reigned over Egypt is not only transmitted to us by the
joint testimony of sacred and profane history, but also is amply
confirmed by the monuments of both countries.</p>

<p>The lists of Eusebius and Africanus, extracted from Manetho,
agree perfectly with the names of the three Ethiopian kings who
reigned over Egypt, from 732 to 688 before the Christian era. The
following table shows that they do not exactly correspond, either
as to particular reigns, or the entire length of the dynasty, which
Africanus makes 40 years, and Eusebius 44; but the difference is
very slight.</p>

<table id="t294">
<tr>
<th colspan="2">Africanus.</th>
<th colspan="2">Eusebius.</th>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="pad-right1">Sabbakon</td>
<td class="tdr">8</td>
<td class="pad2 pad-right1">Sabbakon</td>
<td class="tdr">12</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="pad-right1">Sevechus, his son</td>
<td class="tdr">14</td>
<td class="pad2 pad-right1">Sevechus</td>
<td class="tdr">12</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td class="pad-right1">Tarkus</td>
<td class="tdr">18</td>
<td class="pad2 pad-right1">Tarakus</td>
<td class="tdr">20</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdr bt">40</td>
<td>
</td>
<td class="tdr bt">44</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p>Herodotus says<a id="FNanchor_61"></a><a href="#Footnote_61"
class="fnanchor">[61]</a>, that after Asychis, who erected the
brick pyramid, a certain blind man was said to have reigned in the
city of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_295">[295]</span> Anysis.
During his sway, a large force of Ethiopians, under Sabachus, their
king, invaded Egypt. The blind king escaped by flight into the
mountains, and the Ethiopian reigned in Egypt fifty years. At the
end of that period, according to Herodotus<a id=
"FNanchor_62"></a><a href="#Footnote_62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a>,
a vision appeared to Sabachus, commanding him to assemble the
priests together, and destroy them. Rather than be guilty of such a
sacrilege, he preferred returning into his country, particularly as
the fifty years, which the oracle usually consulted by the
Ethiopians had stated to be the term of their sojourn in Egypt, was
expired. Diodorus gives a narrative of this event, agreeing with
that of Herodotus, except that he does not state the name of the
king to whom Sabachus succeeded. He speaks of a king Bucchoris, of
a vile appearance, who exceeded all his predecessors in talent and
prudence, and says this king reigned some time before Sabachus.
Both Eusebius and Africanus agree that Sabachus ascended the
throne, after making prisoner a king called Bocchoris, or
Bonchoris. When we consider the loose accounts which both Herodotus
and Diodorus have, in every instance, given of the Egyptian kings,
it is only extraordinary that the time assigned by them as the
duration of the Ethiopian dominion in Egypt should differ only by
six years from that stated by Eusebius. They have preserved few
names of any of the dynasties, and these so generally differ from
Manetho and the monuments, that it is not surprising to find them
describe the Ethiopian dynasty as the reign of one monarch. We may
consider it fortunate that the name of that king agrees so exactly
with the always more correct orthography in the lists of Eusebius
and Africanus. The accuracy, however, of the list of Eusebius is
confirmed by testimony which cannot be disputed, namely, the
evidence of lapidary inscriptions on the monuments of Egypt and
Ethiopia. I will first mention to the reader the names and titles
of those kings, with the places where they were<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_296">[296]</span> found recorded; and will
afterwards show him that the third king of this dynasty is the same
Tirhaka whose name is connected with one of the most interesting
historical events narrated in the sacred writings.</p>

<div class="box-float float-left">
<div class="figfloat">
<figure class="iw22" id="i30"><a href="images/i30.jpg"><img src=
'images/i30.jpg' alt='[Hieroglyphs]'></a>
</figure>
</div>
</div>

<p><span class="copt">ⲥⲟⲩⲧⲉⲛ (Ⲣⲏ ⲛⲟϥⲣⲉ (ⲛ̀) ⲕⲁ) ⲥⲓⲣⲏ (Ϣⲃⲕ).</span>
“The King (Sun Beneficent of Oblations), Son of the Sun
(<em>Shabak</em>).” This is undoubtedly the first of this list of
kings. The name is not found upon any of the monuments of Ethiopia,
but that is not surprising, so few of the temples there being
preserved; but we have undoubted evidence of this king having, as
the historians say, reigned over Egypt, for we find his name upon a
gate of the temple of Karnak, and also the portrait of the king in
his Ethiopian dress, with the same titles, on the interior of the
door of the great propylon of the Temple of Luxor, which he
repaired. Signor Rosellini states, that he found a date of the
twelfth year of his reign; which corroborates the statement of
Eusebius, that he reigned twelve years, and not eight only,
according to Africanus. I saw at Berlin a scarabæus containing the
name of this king, with the uræus on each side, and above the oval
a lion couchant: the latter is curious, as it tallies with the
singular title I observed above the names at Amarah, of “King of
Kings,” represented by the reed and half circle, as king
(<span class="copt">ⲥⲟⲩⲧⲛ</span>), and a lion, emblematical of
king, with the sign of the plural number. Signor Rosellini
mentions, also, that this name is on two amulets he purchased for
the Museum at Florence, and on a statue in the Villa Albani at
Rome. I think the latter must be removed, as I could not find it
there, nor do I recollect having seen any other instance of the
name of Sciabak or Sabachus, in the splendid collections of
Egyptian antiquities at Turin, Berlin, Paris, London, Rome, Naples,
Vienna, Munich, &amp;c., except in an inscription on an alabaster
Canopian vase at Paris.</p>

<div class="box-float float-left">
<div class="figfloat">
<figure class="iw22" id="i31"><a href="images/i31.jpg"><img src=
'images/i31.jpg' alt='[Hieroglyphs]'></a>
</figure>
</div>
</div>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_297">[297]</span><span class=
"copt">ⲥⲟⲩⲧⲛ̀ (Ⲣⲏ<span class="letter-spaced0075">.....</span>)
ⲡⲓⲕⲁ) ⲥⲓⲣⲏ (Ⲁⲙⲛⲙ (ⲁⲓ) Ϣⲃⲧⲕ)</span>, “King (Sun <span class=
"letter-spaced0075">.....</span> of the Offerings), Son of the Sun,
(the beloved of Amun Shabatok).” This name is evidently different
from the preceding, there being not only a change in the prænomen,
but also in the other oval. Besides the title of Beloved of Amun,
the addition of the third hieroglyphic, the phonetic sign for T,
changes completely the sound. There is as much difference in the
names of Shabako and Shabatok, who therefore are as clearly two
persons, as the Sabbakon and Sevechus of Eusebius. The Venetian
edition of Eusebius calls the latter king Sebichos. When we
consider the remote period, the difference of the dialect, the
errors of copyists, &amp;c., it is not surprising that so much
discrepancy should exist. This name is found on the ruins to the
south-east of the great temple at Carnak; and that the king was an
Ethiopian is evident from his costume. The style is similar to that
of Shabak; but the drawings of Signor Rosellini, which I could have
wished to insert, are clearly the portraits of two different kings.
I will presently state the learned Italian’s reasons for supposing
that both these names allude to the god Seb or Sevek.</p>

<div class="box-float float-left">
<div class="figfloat">
<figure class="iw22" id="i32"><a href="images/i32.jpg"><img src=
'images/i32.jpg' alt='[Hieroglyphs]'></a>
</figure>
</div>
</div>

<div class="box-float float-left clear">
<div class="figfloat">
<figure class="iw21" id="i33a"><a href="images/i33a.jpg"><img src=
'images/i33a.jpg' alt='[Hieroglyphs]'></a>
</figure>
</div>
</div>

<div class="box-float float-left clear">
<div class="figfloat">
<figure class="iw21" id="i33b"><a href="images/i33b.jpg"><img src=
'images/i33b.jpg' alt='[Hieroglyphs]'></a>
</figure>
</div>
</div>

<p><span class="copt">ⲥⲟⲩⲧⲛ̀ (Ⲣⲏ-Ⲁⲧⲙⲟⲩⲛⲟϥⲣⲉ, ⲱϥⲉ ⲥⲓⲣⲏ)
(Ⲧϩⲣⲕ)</span>, “King Sun Atmou beneficent, Corrector, Son of the
Sun (Tirhaka).” The name of this king is found on the columns and
sides of the temple excavated out of the rock at Gibel el Birkel:
it occurs ten times in the inscriptions which I copied there. It is
also on the small altar in the great temple; but Major Felix<a id=
"FNanchor_63"></a><a href="#Footnote_63" class="fnanchor">[63]</a>
appears to me mistaken in supposing that Tirhaka built that
splendid edifice, for his name occurs<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_298">[298]</span> in that instance only. Whereas the name of
<span class="copt">ⲥⲟⲩⲧⲛ̀ Ⲡⲓⲱⲛϩⲉⲓ</span>, “King Pionchei (the
living),” is on the large altar, and also a fragment of it on the
western wall of the temple; but the claim even of the latter may be
disputed, for <a href="#i33b">Vignette A.</a> is the prænomen on
the only column which is now standing; and the name on the pillars
is usually that of the king who erected the edifice. We have the
authority, then, of the monuments of Ethiopia, that Tirhaka was
king over that country, and his name, fortunately, still remains on
a pylon of a temple at Medenet Abou, and other places at Thebes, to
corroborate the testimony of Manetho, that he was also King of
Egypt. In the latter instance, his name is written exactly as I
have given it, except that the two last hieroglyphics of the
prænomen are represented, figuratively I conceive, by an arm and a
lash in the hand. I found, also the name of his queen, in the first
chamber excavated out of the temple of Gibel el Birkel (<a href=
"#i33c">Vignette A</a>). <span class="copt">ⲥⲟⲩⲧⲛ̀-ϩⲓⲙⲉ
Ⲁⲙⲛϯⲕϯϩ,</span>, “royal bride, Amentakatah.” Mr. Wilkinson found
two princesses of this family: the first, B, is <span class=
"copt">ⲧⲛⲣ ⲥⲓⲟⲩ</span>, or <span class="copt">ⲧ. ⲧⲏⲣ Ⲁⲙⲛⲁⲧⲥ</span>,
“the Divine Star, or the Divine Amenates;” and C, is <span class=
"copt">ⲧⲏⲣ ϩⲓⲙⲉ ⲦⲙⲁⲩϢⲛⲓⲛⲟϥⲣⲉ</span>, “the Divine Bride,
Mutsheninofra, the Mother, Mistress of Good.” Signor Rosellini
states, that there is a date, at Gibel el Birkel, of the year
XX.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_299">[299]</span> of this king’s
reign, confirming the accuracy of Eusebius. I did not perceive it,
though, I believe, I copied every hieroglyphic which remains
there.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw18">
<figure id="i33c"><a href="images/i33c.jpg"><img src=
'images/i33c.jpg' alt='[Hieroglyphs]'></a>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The third king of this dynasty is the Tirhaka of Holy Writ: the
narrative there given, is, I conceive, of sufficient importance to
justify my noticing it somewhat in detail.<a id=
"FNanchor_64"></a><a href="#Footnote_64" class=
"fnanchor">[64]</a></p>

<p>In the third year of King Hoshea, the son of Elah, king of
Israel, Hezekiah the son of Ahaz began to reign; and, for his zeal
in rooting out the idolatry of his people, he was described as one
who “trusted in the Lord God of Israel, so that after him was none
like him among all the kings of Judah, nor any that were before
him.” Hezekiah rebelled against the Assyrians, and smote the
Philistines; and in the fourth year of his reign, the king of
Assyria, Shalmaneser, besieged Samaria, and, after three years,
took it, and carried away the Israelites prisoners. In the
fourteenth year of King Hezekiah, Sennacherib, who had succeeded to
Shalmaneser, went up against all the “fenced cities of Judah, and
took them.” Hezekiah agreed to purchase a peace for three hundred
talents of silver and thirty talents of gold; and gave to him, for
that purpose, all the treasures in the temples and palaces; but
Sennacherib, faithless to this agreement, sent up a great host
against Jerusalem, and the three chiefs of the army of the king of
Assyria, Tartan, Rabsaris, and Rabshakeh, had a conference with
three of the officers of Hezekiah-Eliakim, who was over the
household of Judah, Shebni, the scribe, and Joab the son of Asaph
the recorder. Rabshakeh asked him, “Now, on whom doest thou trust,
that thou rebellest against me?” and taunted them with trusting
upon Egypt. “Now, behold, thou trustest upon the staff of this
bruised reed, even upon Egypt, on which if a man lean, it will go
into his hand, and pierce it: so is Pharaoh king of Egypt unto all
that trust on him.” And he begged them to give pledges to the King
of Assyria, and not trust on Egypt for chariots or for
horsemen.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_300">[300]</span> Hezekiah
was comforted by the prophet Isaiah, and Rabshakeh returned and
told Sennacherib that Tirhaka, king of Ethiopia, was coming up to
fight against him. The titles which are given to Tirhaka, in these
passages, are most important. In 2 Kings, xix. 9., he is called
king of Ethiopia, and in xviii. 21. and 24., Pharaoh of Egypt,
which is exactly saying that he was ruler over both countries, as
we have seen that Manetho and the monuments prove him to have
been.</p>

<p>This name, according to Signor Rosellini, is written in Hebrew
(<span lang="he">תרחקח םלך־כוש</span>) “Tarhaka, Melek Cush,”
translated correctly Θαρακα Βασιλευς Αιθιοπων, “Tarhaka, king of
the Ethiopians.” The perfect resemblance of the name, which neither
upon the monuments nor in the lists is given to any other king of
Egypt; the correspondence of the epoch, and the title of king of
Ethiopia, given to a sovereign of an Ethiopian dynasty, who by
force of arms had annexed Egypt to their paternal kingdom, are
circumstances which prove, beyond all doubt, as the learned
Italian<a id="FNanchor_65"></a><a href="#Footnote_65" class=
"fnanchor">[65]</a> says, the identity of the Tarhaka of the
monuments, with the Tirhaka of holy writ. If, according to
Eusebius, we allow 163 years for the 26th dynasty, that is, the one
which succeeded to the Ethiopians in Egypt, that number, added to
the date of the invasion by Cambyses, 525, will make 688, which,
added to the 20 years’ reign of Tirhaka, would make the accession
of that king to the throne to be in 708, nearly the exact time
assigned by the Scripture chronologists for the relief of Hezekiah
and Tirhaka; but Signor Rosellini, principally on the authority of
a stela which he obtained at Alexandria, makes the total of the
reigns of that dynasty 150 years, which would cause the accession
of Tirhaka to the dominion of the Nile to happen in 695. Following
exactly the chronology of Scripture, it must have been in the first
year of the king’s reign that the destruction of the Assyrian army
took place. “Then the angel<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_301">[301]</span> of the Lord went out and smote in the camp
of the Assyrians an hundred fourscore and five thousand: and when
they arose early in the morning, behold, they were all dead
corpses. So Sennacherib king of Assyria departed, and went and
returned, and dwelt at Nineveh. And it came to pass, as he was
worshipping in the house of Nisroch his god, that Adrammelech and
Sharezer his sons smote him with the sword.”<a id=
"FNanchor_66"></a><a href="#Footnote_66" class=
"fnanchor">[66]</a></p>

<p>I will here introduce an event related by Herodotus<a id=
"FNanchor_67"></a><a href="#Footnote_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a>,
which, notwithstanding many discrepancies, is evidently the
same:—“After Sabaco, the Ethiopian, returned into the country, and
the blind king Anysis was dead, there reigned,” he says, “a priest
of Vulcan, named Sethos. This king treated with contempt the
warriors of Egypt, despising them, as if he never would have
occasion for them; and, besides other injuries he committed against
them, deprived them of the ground which, under the preceding kings,
had been granted to each, in portions of twelve fields of a hundred
cubits. But afterwards Sennacherib, king of the Arabs and of the
Assyrians, having invaded Egypt with a great host, none of the
warriors were willing to assist him: then the priest, reduced to
extremity, entered into the sanctuary, bewailed before the figure
of the divinity the danger to which he was exposed. Thus weeping,
he fell asleep, and the divinity appeared unto him in a vision, and
exhorted him to take courage, for he would have nothing to dread in
going against the army of the Arabians, since he himself would send
assistance. Animated by this dream, and having assembled those
Egyptians who were willing to follow him, he fixed his camp in
Pelusium, since that city forms the entrance into the country. He
was followed by none of the warriors, but only by merchants,
artificers, and labourers. When they were arrived there, a
multitude of field mice were scattered among their adversaries, ate
the bands of their armour, of their bows and shields, so that, next
day, naked and disarmed, they fled, and many perished.”</p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_302">[302]</span>This Sethos is
evidently the Ethiopian Tirhaka. The latter was the successor of an
Ethiopian, as Sethos is represented to have been, and it was
natural that the Ethiopian should despise the soldiers of Egypt,
whom his predecessor had conquered. His depriving them of their
land, and consequently of their political importance, was the
natural policy of a king who reigned over them by right of
conquest; but, as he was a good and beneficent monarch, who had
encouraged the arts and internal prosperity of the country, of
which we have a proof in his restoring and embellishing the
temples, the merchants, artificers, and labourers hastened to his
support, being attached to his person by the advantages they had
derived from his government. The title of priest is not
inappropriate to an Ethiopian king, who was chosen from that order.
Diodorus also informs us how much they were under the influence of
their priests, submitting even to death itself at their command.
Besides the coincidence of the time in the list of Manetho, there
is no mention of a king called Sethos, except the first of the 19th
dynasty, which was long previous. These circumstances alone almost
prove that the Sethos of Herodotus and the Ethiopian Tirhaka are
the same; but we have still stronger evidence. The king against
whom both marched was the same Sennacherib, King of Assyria, and
they are both delivered in the same manner; that is, by a miracle.
Herodotus states Pelusium, not Jerusalem, as the scene of their
discomfiture. This circumstance made me at first imagine that
Sennacherib might have been defeated at both places; but I conceive
it more reasonable to attribute these differences of name, place,
and the nature of the miracle to the usual confusion of Herodotus,
who did not compile his work, like Manetho, from the sacred
registers preserved in the temples, but from verbal communications
with the priests; perhaps the story of the mice was invented by
Herodotus, or his informers, or, at all events, arose in the lapse
of time, to explain the manner in which the Deity interfered in
their behalf.</p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_303">[303]</span>The Tirhaka,
then, of the monuments and of Manetho, is the Sethos of Herodotus,
and the Tirhaka who assisted Hezekiah against Sennacherib. From
these various accounts, and by separating, in the narrative of
Herodotus, the probable from the marvellous, we may conclude that
the monarch was pious, since he bore the title of priest, and
applied to the divinity for support before he set out on the
expedition; that he was powerful, since he was not only able to
hold in subjection the entire valley of the Nile, but also to carry
his arms to the assistance of his neighbours. He appears, also, to
have been an enlightened and an able legislator, since he
encouraged the arts; and although a foreigner, had so ingratiated
himself with his people, that, strong in their affections, he was
not only able to destroy the military despotism of the soldiery,
but raise another army, to wage war against the powerful king of
Assyria. Eratosthenes (see Strabo<a id="FNanchor_68"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_68" class="fnanchor">[68]</a>,) states that this
conqueror proceeded as far as the Pillars of Hercules.</p>

<p>There is another king mentioned in the Bible, as reigning in
Egypt twelve years before the defeat of Sennacherib. It is agreed,
almost by all, that he is the Shabatok or Sevechus of the lists;
but this is so learnedly and ingeniously discussed by Signor
Rosellini, that I make no apology for enriching this chapter with a
translation of his remarks. At the seventeenth chapter of 2 Kings,
it is related that Shalmaneser, king of the Assyrians, subdued and
made tributary Hoshea, king of Israel. That prince having wished to
rebel, and having sent for aid to So, king of Egypt, Shalmaneser
besieged, conquered, and made him prisoner. The reign of Hoshea
over Israel lasted nine years; so that it appears to have happened
in his sixth year, that, to throw off the Assyrian yoke, he
demanded assistance from the king of Egypt. Therefore, as
Shalmaneser besieged and took Samaria in that year, which was the
last of Hoshea, Hezekiah began to reign over Judah in the third
year of Hoshea; and in the 14th year of Hezekiah occurred the
discomfiture<span class="pagenum" id="Page_304">[304]</span> of
Sennacherib, in which the Pharaoh Tirhaka took part, as the ally of
the king of Judah. The sixth year of Hoshea (in which he demanded
aid of So, king of Egypt,) corresponds to the third year of the
reign of Hezekiah; and since this latter king, in the 14th year of
his reign, made a treaty with Tirhaka, it follows that the Pharaoh,
called So in the Bible, preceded Tirhaka by an interval of not less
than eleven years. But So is called king of Egypt, and Tirhaka was
the same; therefore we ought to seek the Pharaoh So among the kings
of this Ethiopian dynasty. And since he preceded Tirhaka by an
interval of eleven years, we must necessarily recognise him as the
immediate predecessor of Tirhaka, who is called by Manetho
Sevechus, or Sebichus, and, according to Eusebius, reigned twelve
years. Not less manifest than the coincidence of the years is the
correspondence of the name in Manetho and the Bible, if we correct
the pronunciation according to the true sound of the Egyptian
language. I have already mentioned, that the name of Shabatok (so
the Sevechus of Manetho is written upon the monuments) may truly,
indeed, be considered as a peculiar word of the Ethiopian dialect,
which corresponds to the Egyptian Sevek. Sevek is, in the Egyptian
mythology, a god, who has attributes relative to the Nile, and is
generally represented under the sacred symbol of a crocodile. In
this form its name is usually written <img src='images/sym2.jpg'
alt='[Symbol]' class="iwsym"> <span class="copt">ⲥ ⲃ ⲕ</span>
“Sebek, Sevek;” but when it is represented under a human form, then
it is written simply <img src='images/sym3.jpg' alt='[Symbol]'
class="iwsym"> or <img src='images/sym4.jpg' alt='[Symbol]' class=
"iwsym"> <span class="copt">ⲥ ⲃ</span> “Seb, Sewe.” The titles,
attributes, and forms of those two names, Sewe and Sebek, are
promiscuous; and we are certain, that, however it is written or
pronounced, it means the same divinity.<a id=
"FNanchor_69"></a><a href="#Footnote_69" class=
"fnanchor">[69]</a></p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_305">[305]</span>Let us take,
therefore, from the Hebrew text, the name of the king of Egypt, to
whom Hoshea sent for help. It is written <span lang=
"he">סוא</span>: disregarding (particularly in a foreign language)
the corrupt pronunciation given to it by Masorete, and the other
interpreters, who read So or Soa, and Sua, let the least learned in
the languages of the East judge, if the natural pronunciation of
these Hebrew elements be not Sewa or Sewe. This is sufficient to
show, that the author of the second book of Kings wrote that name
with those characters which could give the pronunciation of the
Egyptian name Sewe. It is probable that the same name, written upon
the monuments in the Ethiopian manner, Shabatok, was commonly
called by the Egyptians, Sewe; and, perhaps, they pronounced it
also, indifferently, Sewek, since both these words were the
designation of the same divinity, to which that name belongs. In
fact, Manetho wrote in his history, Sevechus, and, cutting off the
Greek termination, it remains Sevek, retaining, from the Ethiopian
Shabatok, the pronunciation used in Egypt. Thus the text of the
Bible, also, in relating this Egyptian name, maintains that
possible orthographic exactness which it has followed in writing
all the other Egyptian names. The original monuments, therefore,
and the lists of Manetho concur in attesting that the dynasty of
the Ethiopians was composed of three kings, whose names I have
mentioned, and thus correct the Greek historians who have assigned
it to Sabaco only.</p>

<hr class="chap">

<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_306">[306]</span><a id=
"c20"></a>CHAPTER XX.</h2>

<p class="csum">THE EMIGRATION OF EGYPTIAN SOLDIERS AT THE TIME OF
PSAMMITICHUS. — EXPEDITION OF CAMBYSES. — MANNERS, CUSTOMS, ETC. OF
THE MACROBIANS, ETC. — CURIOUS CUSTOMS OF THE ETHIOPIANS. —
ERGAMENES, THE ETHIOPIAN KING’S, CONQUESTS IN LOWER NUBIA. —
ATARRAMON AND SILCO, ETHIOPIAN KINGS. — EXPEDITION OF PETRONIUS. —
QUEEN CANDACE. — CHRISTIANITY FIRST INTRODUCED INTO ETHIOPIA. — ITS
DURATION. — NAPATA, CAPITAL OF CANDACE. — BLEMMYES AND THE
NUBIANS.</p>

<p class="nind"><span class="sc">Under</span> the reign of
Psammitichus, whom Africanus states to have reigned twenty-one
years, Eusebius thirty-three, and Herodotus fifteen, after the
Ethiopian dynasty, the historian of Halicarnassus informs us (and
his account is confirmed by Diodorus), that 240,000 Egyptian
soldiers were in garrison at Elephantine against the Ethiopians, at
Pelusium against the Arabs and Assyrians, and others, in Marea,
opposite Africa. These soldiers having been three years thus in
garrison, without being relieved, resolved to go over together from
Psammitichus into Ethiopia. Regardless of the entreaties of that
king, they engaged themselves to the king of that country, who
employed them in subduing some of his discontented subjects, whose
land he gave them as a reward. It is added, that the Ethiopians
became more civilised, imbibing the customs of Egypt.</p>

<p>Herodotus states<a id="FNanchor_70"></a><a href="#Footnote_70"
class="fnanchor">[70]</a>, that part of these soldiers were in
garrison at Pelusium, against the Assyrians; probably an attack
from that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_307">[307]</span> nation
was anticipated, in revenge of the defeat of Sennacherib. According
to that author, there were forty days of land journey, and sixteen
of navigation, between Elephantina and Meroe, besides a space near
Taconso. He says, the distance is the same from there to the
country of the Automali, otherwise called Ascami, a term which
means “Assistants at the left hand of the king;” by which,
according to him, the Egyptian warriors are designated. Whether
this last fifty-six days’ journey extends along the Bahr el Abiad,
in the direction of Axum, or on the Bahr el Azruk, cannot, with
certainty, be decided; but I will presently state my reasons for
conceiving the former opinion to be not improbable. The inhabitants
of a part of Ethiopia, at such an immense distance from the
metropolis, would naturally become more civilised by this Egyptian
colony. This passage, at all events, communicates the highly
important fact, that the kingdom of Meroe reached more than
fifty-six days’ journey, both north and south, from the metropolis;
or, in other words, that it was altogether about 1500 miles in
length at that period. This accounts for the great power of the
king of Ethiopia, but for which it is evident, that a body of
240,000 men would not have been satisfied with having assigned to
them a distant and uncivilised portion of his kingdom, but would
have been easily able to take possession of the whole.</p>

<p>The next important event I shall allude to is the celebrated
expedition of the first king of the Persian dynasty in Egypt.</p>

<p>Cambyses determined to make war upon three different powers,—the
Carthaginians, the Ammonians, and the Egyptian Macrobians. But,
before commencing the expedition into Ethiopia, he resolved to send
spies into the country, and, for this purpose, sent to the island
of Elephantine for some of the Ichthyophagi, who were acquainted
with the Ethiopian language. Cambyses, having instructed these
ambassadors what they should say, gave them, as presents for the
king, a robe of purple, necklaces and bracelets of gold, an
alabaster vase of ointment, and another<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_308">[308]</span> vase of palm wine. The Ichthyophagi having
arrived, and having been introduced to the king, presented their
offerings, and addressed him thus:—“Cambyses, King of the Persians,
desirous of being your friend and ally, sent us to you with these
gifts, in the use of which he takes great delight.”<a id=
"FNanchor_71"></a><a href="#Footnote_71" class=
"fnanchor">[71]</a></p>

<p>The Ethiopian king, knowing well that they came as spies,
answered,—“It is not that the King of the Persians esteems so much
my friendship, that he has sent you to me with gifts; neither do
you speak truly, for you have come to spy out my kingdom. Neither
is he a just man, for if he were just, he would not covet the
country of another, nor wish to make slaves of those who have in no
way offended him. Present to him this bow, and tell him that the
King of the Ethiopians gives this advice to the King of the
Persians. When he is able to manage such large bows with as much
facility as I do, then let him conduct an army against the Egyptian
Macrobians, but one superior to them in number. In the mean time,
thank the gods for not putting it into the mind of the Egyptians to
usurp the states of others.”</p>

<p>Having said this, he unbent the bow, and gave it to them, and
having taken the vest of purple into his hand, he asked them what
it was, and how it was made? The Ichthyophagi having told him the
truth of the purple and the colouring, he said that they were
deceivers, and their garments deceitful. Having inquired about the
necklace and bracelets of gold, and the Ichthyophagi having
answered that they were ornaments, he laughed, conceiving them to
be chains, and said, that he had much stronger ones. Lastly,
inquiring of the ointment, and being shown how it should be worked
with the hand, and used, he said of it the same as he had done of
the vest. He then learned how the wine was made, and its use; and
being much pleased with the trial he made of it, he asked on what
things they lived, and what was the longest<span class="pagenum"
id="Page_309">[309]</span> period of the life of a Persian? They
answered, that the King lived on bread, explaining to him the
nature of corn, and told him that the space of eighty years was the
greatest length of the life of a Persian. The Ethiopian answered,
that he was not surprised that, subsisting on mud, they should live
so few years; that neither would they live so long, was it not for
the wine, and added, “for in this only are the Persians superior to
the Ethiopians.”</p>

<p>The Ichthyophagi having, in their turn, inquired of the King
about his people’s food, and manner of life, he answered, that they
lived on meat and milk; that the greatest part of them lived to the
age of 120 years, and some even longer. The ambassadors having
expressed their surprise at this, the King conducted them to a
fountain, after washing in which they became more vigorous, and
shining, as with oil; and it sent forth an odour as of violet. And
the Ichthyophagi said that this water was so light, that neither
wood, nor even lighter substances, would swim on the surface; but
that every thing went to the bottom; and that the constant use of
this water was the reason why the Ethiopians lived so long.</p>

<p>Cambyses, enraged at this reception of the Ethiopians, set out
without preparing any store of provisions, and without reflecting
that it was the extremity of the world to which he was carrying his
arms. Before he had marched a fifth part of the route from Thebes,
the want of provisions was felt; yet he madly determined to
proceed. The soldiers fed on grass as long as any could be found;
at length, when they arrived in the deserts, they were obliged to
cast lots, to eat one in ten; which finally induced Cambyses to
return to Thebes with the remains of his army.—The defeat of this
monarch is also mentioned by Diodorus.</p>

<p>If this account be at all correct, the country of the Macrobians
must have been at some distance from Meroe, otherwise they could
not have been ignorant of the use of necklaces and bracelets, since
the figures on the walls of the sepulchres of that metropolis are
represented with those ornaments. The fountain mentioned
by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_310">[310]</span> the Ichthyophagi
is almost as wonderful as the lake which Diodorus reports as seen
by Semiramis; but, discarding what bears the stamp of fiction in
this narrative, we can easily recognise, in this account of the
Macrobians, a powerful nomad tribe, in possession of the gold
country which was the great attraction to Cambyses. Their degree of
strength and longevity, probably exaggerated, might be gained by
the habits of frugality and temperance usual among the nomad
tribes. Their food (meat and milk) is exactly that of the Bishareen
and other tribes of the desert at the present day. Their not
understanding the nature of the ointment, may have been from its
being very superior to their own; all that is probable in the
description of the fountain is, that it consisted of oil. The Arab
tribes are now in the habit of anointing their bodies, conceiving
this custom to be in the highest degree salubrious, and indeed
necessary, to mitigate the parching effects of a vertical sun and
the hot winds of the desert. I tried this custom, and found it very
beneficial; and am persuaded I should have suffered less from the
heat had I used it more frequently; but the smell of the ointment
they now use is not like the violet, as the Ichthyophagi describe
that of the Macrobians. It is not, therefore, surprising that a
powerful tribe, doubtless less barbarous than at the present day,
being in connection with states then more civilised, should have a
bath of prepared oil, suited to the pressing wants of the country.
A nomad tribe might, very probably, be ignorant how the purple
colour was produced; for, with the exception of some shawls worn by
the chiefs, none of the Arabs of the present day use any thing but
white cotton and linen cloths. The Melek Nazr e’ Deen (see <a href=
"#pl03">Plate III.</a>), is almost the only exception I have met
with. Sheakh Sayd, the chief of all the Ababdes, did not know how
the indigo plant (which his country produces) was made into a dye,
till he went with me through the manufactory at Berber. I suspect
that the account of their contempt for gold, is an embellishment of
the Greek historian, or an exaggeration of the ambassadors;
for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_311">[311]</span> they must have
learnt its value by exchanging it with their more civilised
neighbours. It is not, however, impossible that they may have used
it for chains, as they might not have possessed other metals, or if
they did, might not have had skill to work them into chains so
easily as they could gold; or, from their greater rarity, they
might have been equally as valuable.<a id=
"FNanchor_72"></a><a href="#Footnote_72" class=
"fnanchor">[72]</a></p>

<p>Herodotus calls them Egyptian Macrobians, and afterwards
Egyptians. I am almost inclined to believe that they may have been
a nomad race, blended with the 240,000 soldiers, who, according to
Herodotus, deserted from Psammitichus, and had a territory assigned
to them, among a people about sixty days’ journey distant from
Meroe. It is certain that the Egyptians would marry native wives.
They might, as Herodotus says, have improved the manners of the
people; but, being warriors, and not mechanics or artificers, and
accustomed to a rigid distinction of castes, they might not have
introduced a knowledge of the arts, and even what they taught
might, in a century and a half, be forgotten by a tribe whose
habits would give them little taste for such acquirements. I cannot
agree with those who consider the country of the Macrobians to be
on or near the Arabian Gulf, in the territory of the present
Soumalies, or, as Professor Heeren<a id="FNanchor_73"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_73" class="fnanchor">[73]</a> has placed them, beyond
Cape Guardefui; for, mad as Cambyses is represented to have been,
he surely could not have been so infatuated as to have attempted to
penetrate to so vast a distance, across the immense deserts and
inhospitable regions of the interior, the whole population of which
would be hostile to his progress, particularly when a far shorter
and easier way was open to him by the Arabian Gulf and
the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_312">[312]</span> Straits of
Babelmandel. It may be stated that the Persians were, perhaps,
unskilled and averse to navigation; but even if not navigators
themselves, they might easily have procured transports. I think the
Macrobians should be placed more in the interior; probably on the
Bahr el Abiad. Pausanias (lib. iv.) says, that Meroe and the
Ethiopian plains are inhabited by the Macrobians, the most just
people of the earth: but that they have not in the country any sea,
nor any other river but the Nile. This statement, which merits
attention, being from one so deeply versed in Egyptian subjects,
proves what I have stated,—that the Macrobians did not occupy the
territory of the present Soumalies, near the sea; but at the same
time brings them nearer to Meroe than we can admit from their state
of civilisation, or the testimony of Herodotus, who describes them
as being on the southern side of Africa.</p>

<p>I have now to mention an historical fact, connected with some
curious Ethiopian customs, which might have been rejected as a
fable, but for the evidence of a lapidary inscription, which
records the name of the king connected with it. This gives to it an
authentic character, and affords another proof of the general
accuracy of the Sicilian historian’s account of the Ethiopians.</p>

<p>“The Ethiopians,” says Diodorus<a id="FNanchor_74"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_74" class="fnanchor">[74]</a>, “have many laws differing
from those of other nations, particularly as regards the choice of
their kings. The priests choose the most respectable of their
order, and form them into a circle; and he who by chance is taken
hold of by the priest, who enters into the circle, walking and
leaping like a satyr, is declared king upon the spot; and all the
people worship him, as a man charged with the government by Divine
Providence. The king lives after the manner prescribed to him by
the law. In all things he follows the customs of the country,
neither punishing nor recompensing but according<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_313">[313]</span> to the laws established since
the origin of the nation. It is not permitted to the king to cause
any of his subjects to be executed, even when they shall have been
judged worthy of death; but he sends to the guilty person an
officer, who carries to him the signal of death; and immediately
the criminal shuts himself in his house, and executes justice on
himself. It is not permitted to him to fly into a neighbouring
kingdom, and change the pain of death into banishment, as they do
in Greece. They relate that a certain man, having received an order
of death, which had been sent to him by the king, thought of flying
out of Ethiopia. His mother, who suspected his design, passed her
girdle around his neck, without his attempting to defend himself,
and strangled him, lest, as she said, her son should bring
increased disgrace upon his family by his flight.”</p>

<p>We perceive, by these passages, that the Ethiopians had regular
laws, to which not only the people but the king submitted. The
kings, it seems, were chosen from the priests, and therefore it is
not extraordinary that they were so completely under their power as
we shall shortly see; for probably, like the cardinals at Rome,
they did not select always the most talented, but often the most
manageable, as their chief. The satyr-like gambols of the priest,
which were the cause of his being elected, remind me somewhat of
the impositions, or, rather, workings of the spirit, which the Arab
fakeers and sheakhs sometimes exhibit.<a id=
"FNanchor_75"></a><a href="#Footnote_75" class=
"fnanchor">[75]</a></p>

<div class="box-float float-left">
<div class="figfloat">
<figure class="iw22" id="i34"><a href="images/i34.jpg"><img src=
'images/i34.jpg' alt='[Hieroglyphs]'></a>
</figure>
</div>
</div>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_314">[314]</span>“The death of
the kings,” says Diodorus, “is still more extraordinary. The
priests at Meroe have acquired great power. When they form the
resolution, they send a courier to the king, with an order for him
to die. They tell him that the gods (or oracles) had thus decreed,
and that he would be guilty of a crime if he violated an order from
them. They added many other reasons, which would easily influence a
simple man, aware of the ancient custom, and who had not strength
of mind sufficient to resist such an unjust command. The first
kings submitted to this cruel sentence. Ergamenes, who reigned at
the time of the second Ptolemy, and who was instructed in the
philosophy of Greece, was the first who dared to throw off this
ridiculous yoke. He went with his army to the place difficult to
get to, or (εἰς τὸ ἄβατον) fortress, where was formerly the temple
of gold of the Ethiopians, and caused all the priests to be
massacred, and instituted himself a new religion.” Signor Rosellini
found the name of this king on the door of the sanctuary of Dacker.
<span class="copt">ⲥⲟⲩⲧⲛ̀ (Ⲁⲙⲛⲧⲟⲧ ⲱⲛϩ, Ⲣⲏ-ⲱⲧⲡ) ⲥⲓⲣⲏ (Ⲉⲣⲕⲁⲙⲛ ⲱⲛϩ
ϫⲧⲧ, Ⲓⲥⲏⲙⲁⲓ)</span>. “King Amentot (hand of Amun), the living,
devoted to Phre (Son of the Sun), Erkamon, always living, beloved
of Isis.”—Vol. ii. 321.</p>

<p>The discovery of the name is of the greatest importance; as the
evidence of this lapidary inscription, that there was a
king<span class="pagenum" id="Page_315">[315]</span> called
Ergamenes, or, to give him his proper name, Erkamenes, is strongly
corroborative of the whole narrative of Diodorus. He could not have
been an Egyptian king, for there is no mention in any of the lists
of a king of that name. We may, therefore, with certainty conclude,
that it is the Ethiopian monarch Erkamenes. Philæ was generally
considered the boundary of Egypt, but we have the indubitable
testimony of a long train of splendid monuments, from that island
to Solib, that the rulers of Egypt, from the Pharaohs of the
eighteenth dynasty until the time of the Cæsars, possessed at all
events, at different intervals, that part of Ethiopia.</p>

<p>From there being there no Ethiopian edifices, but all Egyptian
temples, from the first to the second cataract, it is probable that
the Egyptians were generally in possession of that part of the
valley of the Nile; but the name of this Ethiopian king having been
found on this Ptolemaic edifice, can only be accounted for by his
having been in possession of the country. The style of the
architecture and sculpture of the temple of Dacker is certainly
like that of the Ptolemies. I therefore do not conceive that the
temple was built by Erkamenes, but perhaps that conqueror
celebrated his victories by religious functions, a representation
of which he had sculptured on the temple at the limit of his
conquests.</p>

<div class="box-float float-left">
<div class="figfloat">
<figure class="iw22" id="i35"><a href="images/i35.jpg"><img src=
'images/i35.jpg' alt='[Hieroglyphs]'></a>
</figure>
</div>
</div>

<p>Besides Erkamenes, we have accounts of another Ethiopian
monarch, whose name Signor Rosellini found on the temple of Deboud,
in Lower Nubia, and which he conceives (I think very correctly), to
be also of an Ethiopian king of about the same period. <span class=
"copt">ⲥⲟⲩⲧⲛ̀ (Ⲣⲏ ⲛ̀ ⲱⲧⲡ, ⲥⲱⲧⲛ̀ ⲛ̀ⲛⲓⲧⲏⲣ) ⲥⲓⲣⲏ (Ⲁⲧⲣⲣⲁⲙⲛ, ⲱⲡϩ
ϫⲧⲧ)</span> “King (Son of Perfection, approved by the gods), Son of
the Sun (Atarramon, always living.)” This, therefore, is an
Ethiopian king, whose conquests extended to within a few miles of
Philæ.</p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_316">[316]</span>A Greek
inscription at Kalabshy mentions the victories of Silco, king of
all the Ethiopians, over the Blemmyes. No other Ethiopian names are
found in Lower Nubia, except some prisoners represented on the
walls of the temple of Rameses at Kalabshy.</p>

<p>Strabo<a id="FNanchor_76"></a><a href="#Footnote_76" class=
"fnanchor">[76]</a> gives us a highly important narrative of an
event that took place in his time. It is peculiarly interesting, as
it accounts for the ruin of the towns and temples which once
adorned that part of the valley of the Nile. “The Ethiopians,” says
he, “taking advantage of Ælius Gallus having taken away the
garrison of Syene, to prosecute his expedition into Arabia, by a
sudden and unforeseen attack took possession of Syene, Elephanta,
and Philæ; made the inhabitants prisoners, overthrew the statues of
Cæsar Augustus; but Petronius, with 10,000 foot and 800 cavalry,
attacked their army, composed of 30,000 men, and forced them to fly
to Pselchis, an Ethiopian city: he sent ambassadors to them there,
to demand what they had taken, and to know what reason they had to
complain of the governors. They required three days to consider,
and as, after that time, Petronius did not obtain satisfaction, he
attacked them, forced them to give battle, and had no difficulty in
putting to flight men ill disciplined and ill armed, having only
large shields of unmanufactured ox-hide, hatchets, spears, and
sabres. Some threw themselves into the town, others fled into the
desert. Some gained a neighbouring town by swimming across the
river; among the number were the generals of Candace, who reigned
over the Ethiopians. This queen, whose courage was beyond her sex,
was deprived of one eye.</p>

<p>“Petronius crossed the river upon rafts and boats, and made
prisoners all those who were in the island, and sent them
immediately to Alexandria; afterwards they attacked Pselchis, and
took it by assault. From Pselchis, Petronius, crossing the downs
of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_317">[317]</span> sand where the
army of Cambyses had been swallowed up by the winds, reached
Premnis, a town in a strong situation, gained it at the first
attack, and advanced afterwards on Napata, the capital of the
kingdom of Candace, where her son was then residing. Candace
occupied a neighbouring place, whence she sent to demand peace,
offering to restore the prisoners who had been brought from Syene,
and the statues which they had carried off; but Petronius,
regardless of these propositions, attacked Napata, which the queen
and her son had abandoned, razed the town, and led away the
inhabitants captive.</p>

<p>“He returned with his booty, judging the road beyond to be too
difficult. He took, however, the precaution to fortify Premnis
better, leaving there a garrison of 400 men, with provisions for
two years. Candace advanced, with a considerable force, against
Premnis, but Petronius came to its relief, and succeeded in
throwing himself into the town before the arrival of the queen, and
provided various means of defence for the safety of the place.
Candace sent ambassadors to Petronius, who ordered them to go to
Cæsar (Augustus); and as they pretended not to know who Cæsar was,
and which way they must go, he gave them an escort. These
ambassadors arrived at Samos, where Cæsar then was. He granted all
that they desired, and even freed them from the tribute which he
had imposed upon them.”</p>

<p>We perceive from this account the superiority of the Roman arms.
The discipline of those celebrated troops would have made them
irresistible, whatever might have been the inferiority of their
number, against such wretched soldiers as Strabo represents the
Ethiopians: but Petronius, when at Napata, would scarcely have
refrained from proceeding to Meroe, nor eventually would he have
shut himself up in Premnis, whatever might have been the force of
Candace, had it consisted of the undisciplined, ill-armed people he
describes. Augustus does not seem to have despised them, since he
concluded a peace on their own terms. In my <a href=
"#c22">account</a> of<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_318">[318]</span> the arts of Meroe, I will mention the
probable effects of this destructive invasion of Petronius. Pliny
also mentions this expedition<a id="FNanchor_77"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_77" class="fnanchor">[77]</a>, and states that, after
Pselchis and Premnis, he took also the cities of Aboccis, Phthuris,
Cambusis, Attenan, and Stadisis, and afterwards Napata; but he
adds, it was not only the Roman arms which made a wilderness of
this part of Ethiopia, but the wars with Egypt, alternately ruling
over, and subject to, that country.</p>

<p>The year of the expedition of Petronius has never been exactly
ascertained<a id="FNanchor_78"></a><a href="#Footnote_78" class=
"fnanchor">[78]</a>, but according to Dion Cassius (lxiv. s. 7.),
Augustus went into the East in the year of Rome 734. Therefore, as
the ambassadors of the Ethiopians found him at Samos, on his way
into Syria, the expedition of Petronius can only have taken place a
very short time before that period, that is, about twenty years
before Christ.</p>

<p>An event of the greatest importance is recorded in the Gospel,
as having taken place <span class="sc2">A.D.</span> 33. An eunuch,
a man of great authority under Candace, who had the charge of all
her treasure, was converted by Philip.<a id=
"FNanchor_79"></a><a href="#Footnote_79" class="fnanchor">[79]</a>
The time at which Philip met the eunuch was subsequent to that of
Ergamenes, when, as we have seen, a taste for Greek literature was
spread in Ethiopia; therefore, the Greek language was, without
doubt, sufficiently known to enable them to read the Old Testament,
which was then translated into that language. It is not
extraordinary, that a man who may be supposed to have raised
himself to his high station of chief eunuch, by superior talent,
should have perceived the superiority of the Jewish religion to
that of Amun, nor is it unreasonable to presume that many of the
Jews visited Ethiopia, and contributed to his conversion. We find
him, therefore, as a believer in the Jewish religion, undertaking a
journey of nearly 2000 miles to worship at the holy temple of
Jerusalem, and engaged, when<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_319">[319]</span> Philip met him, in studying the promises
held out to the chosen people. We have no reason, I think, to
assume that, because the sacred writings have only recorded this
solitary instance, there were not other Ethiopians who had embraced
the Jewish religion. It is well known that, in the East, through
every age, the chief eunuch has always been one of the most
powerful officers at the court; and it is not unreasonable, I
think, to presume that his influence, joined to the persuasive
truth of the doctrines of Christianity, may have induced many to
forsake the ancient worship of the country, which had then,
perhaps, degenerated, as in Egypt, into gross polytheism. Unless we
assign a reign of more than fifty years to the Candace of the
Gospel, she cannot be the sovereign who reigned at the time of the
expedition of Petronius; but Pliny informs us that several queens
who reigned in Ethiopia assumed this appellation. Philip met the
eunuch, riding in his chariot, on the road from Jerusalem to Gaza,
which is a desert tract. Those deserts, which the traveller is now
obliged to cross on the fatiguing camel, exposed to the hot sun and
parching winds, the eunuch, it seems, rode over comfortably in his
chariot. About the year 330, when Athanasius was Patriarch of
Alexandria, according to Ludolf<a id="FNanchor_80"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_80" class="fnanchor">[80]</a>, Christianity was
introduced into Abyssinia, by two youths, Frumentius and Ædisius,
who were shipwrecked on the coast of the Red Sea; but it was not
until the time of Theodosius that the Nubians were converted; and,
according to the Arab writer, Sheref el Edrese, <span class=
"sc2">A.D.</span> 1153, they were still Christians.</p>

<p>I shall not attempt the laborious, and almost useless, task, of
endeavouring to trace the history of this country from the time of
the Romans until the present day. My object has been to lay before
the reader the most important fragments of history connected with
the kingdom of Meroe. The capital of Candace was Napata,
and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_320">[320]</span> not Meroe. The
latter celebrated metropolis seems to have existed until the age of
Ptolemy Philadelphus; and at the time of Nero, Pliny describes
Napata as of no importance. <em>Oppidum id parvum inter prædicta
solum</em>. After this sad decline of the glory of the Ethiopians,
we find the wild tribes, whose power was formerly absorbed in the
superior greatness of Meroe, now acting the principal part. The
wars of the Blemmyes and the Nubians with each other, and against
the Roman power, are the most important events afterwards
transmitted to us; but, as these tribes have left no monuments of
their civilisation, their names, victories, and defeats, have
little connection with the history of Meroe. It might be
interesting to trace the wasting away of that lamp of civilisation
which had shone once so bright; but such an inquiry would exceed my
limits, as well as the object prescribed to myself, which was, to
show the once great political importance of the Ethiopians of
Meroe. I have said, in my topographical description, that my
examination of the existing monuments led me to adopt the opinion
of those who believe the statement of Diodorus, that Meroe was the
cradle of the arts. I shall, in the following chapters, bring
forward additional arguments to prove that statement. The
establishment of this fact will give an additional interest to that
classical land, which we have seen to be the country of Memnon,
Zerah, Tirhaka, Ergamenes, &amp;c., and against which the efforts
of Semiramis, Cambyses, and the Egyptian Pharaohs<a id=
"FNanchor_81"></a><a href="#Footnote_81" class="fnanchor">[81]</a>,
were vainly directed.</p>

<hr class="chap">

<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_321">[321]</span><a id=
"c21"></a>CHAPTER XXI.</h2>

<p class="csum">REQUISITES FOR A STATE ENJOYING EXTENSIVE COMMERCE.
— ADVANTAGEOUS POSITION OF MEROE. — PROBABLE EXTENT OF HER
COMMERCE. — THE FACILITY AFFORDED TO ITS EXTENSION BY MEANS OF THE
CAMEL. — COMMERCE OF ARABIA AND INDIA. — ABUNDANCE OF GOLD. — IRON
AND GUM. — ETHIOPIAN TRIBUTE TO EGYPT. — DESCRIPTION OF A SPLENDID
ETHIOPIAN PROCESSION AT THEBES. — COMMERCE OF THE INTERIOR. —
CAUSES OF THE DECLINE OF MEROE. — DIMINUTION OF HER AGRICULTURAL
RESOURCES. — EXHAUSTION OF MINES. — RIVALRY OF EGYPT. — WARS WITH
EGYPT. — ARAB CONQUEST. — PRESENT COMMERCE.</p>

<p class="nind"><em><span class="sc">Commerce of
Meroe</span>.</em>—The history of nations, and particularly of
cities, clearly evinces the extraordinary effects of commerce.
Those countries which have attained to any high degree of power and
prosperity have been, in a great measure, indebted for them to that
source of wealth. A wise government, anxious for the welfare of its
subjects, always affords the utmost encouragement and protection to
commerce, guarding it against those accidents which endanger its
security, and when, from unavoidable circumstances, one branch is
closed, seeks to open other channels to its successful activity. In
order that a state may carry on extensive commerce, it ought to
possess an advantageous position, contiguous to other rich
countries, with the opportunity of becoming an emporium for their
commodities, and of supplying them with those in which they are
deficient. She ought also to enjoy abundant internal resources,
derived from agriculture, manufactures, and mines.</p>

<p>A slight examination of the map of this part of Africa will
satisfy us that there could not have been a situation, on that
immense continent, more admirably adapted for commercial
intercourse<span class="pagenum" id="Page_322">[322]</span> than
Meroe. Placed at a short distance only from the conflux of the
Astaboras and the Nile, she was connected, by the former, with that
part of Ethiopia now called Abyssinia; and, by the latter, now
denominated the Bahr el Azruk, or Blue River, with the provinces of
Sennaar, Fazoukl, and, perhaps, with regions still further to the
south. It is also highly probable that, by the Bahr el Abiad, or
White River, the true Nile, she communicated extensively with vast
districts in the interior of Africa. The distance from these
rivers, particularly from the Astaboras, to the present ports of
Massoua (the ancient Adule) and Souakim, on the Red Sea, whence she
received, perhaps, the productions of Arabia and the Indies, was by
no means great. Nature seems to have facilitated the intercourse by
providing her with the ship of the desert—the camel. By its means,
probably, the commerce of Meroe may have been widely diffused into
the centre of Africa; to the countries now called Kordofan and
Darfour, which are only at a short distance from the Nile; nor is
it improbable that a powerful and enterprising nation, such as the
Ethiopians then appear to have been, may have extended their
caravan trade to the kingdoms of Soudan, Bornou, &amp;c., and
possibly even to the now impervious Timbuctoo.</p>

<p>It may be asked, if the profit which the merchants of Meroe
could derive from such distant expeditions would repay the cost and
hazard; but an examination of the expense of transporting
merchandise on camels will remove that objection. In the estimate
which I am about to make, of the expenses of sea and land carriage,
the rates must, of course, be those of the present day; this,
however, will be to the disadvantage of my argument, as navigation,
at that remote period, was in a much more imperfect state, and
consequently more tedious and expensive, than it now is. I shall
select wool, as a bulky article, and, therefore, more difficult to
transport by land. I shall suppose a vessel, laden with 1000 bags
of wool, of 450 lbs. each, and that its<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_323">[323]</span> average passage was thirty days, for which
the owners received a freight of 1<em>d.</em> per lb., which, I
believe, is about the usual rate for a voyage of that length.
Supposing, also, that the average sailing of the vessel, allowing
for detentions from contrary winds, and for the time occupied in
loading and reloading, be fifty miles per day, making thus 1500
miles. Now, the usual load for a camel is 500 lbs., sometimes 600
lbs., so that 450 lbs. is a very moderate calculation; and at the
rate the merchandise of the Pasha is now carried down to Cairo, not
more than sixty days would be necessary to accomplish the above
distance. They charged me eighteen shillings for twenty days,
averaging about twenty-five miles per day; therefore the expense of
the sixty days, at present, would not exceed two pounds fourteen
shillings; about sixteen shillings more than by water.</p>

<p>In ancient times the expense of labour and camels was not likely
to differ materially from what it now is; but that of maritime
conveyance must have been much larger. We know the number of men
that were necessary to impel the boats, and their system of
following all the sinuosities of the coasts. Hence the time taken
to accomplish a voyage of any extent must have been very long. The
period required by Solomon’s vessels to reach the country of Ophir
is a proof of the dilatory, and consequently expensive, navigation
in that age. As I have stated in my account of Dongolah, 2500 loads
of gum, of 450 rotols each, are carried down to Cairo, that is, a
distance of about 1800 miles, for 2<em>l.</em>, including all
expenses; being thirteen per cent. on the value.</p>

<p>This calculation proves, that the cost of land carriage,
particularly for the short journeys to the Red Sea, Kordofan, and
Darfour, would be only a slight inconvenience; and even the expense
of a regular trade to Fezzan and Bornou, by the route which the
Mamelukes took, would have been no very heavy burden on the
articles. That on which I have chosen to make this calculation,
was, as already observed, one of the most
disadvantageous<span class="pagenum" id="Page_324">[324]</span>
that could have been selected. The expense of 18<em>s.</em> (and I,
as a traveller, of course paid the highest price), on conveying,
for a journey of twenty days, 500 pounds weight of rich Indian
stuffs, or of Arabian spices, must have been quite trifling.</p>

<p>Meroe, therefore, enjoyed the advantage, not only of a direct
water communication by the Nile, Bahr el Abiad, Bahr el Azruk, and
the Astoboras, to an extent of several thousand miles of the vast
continent of Africa, but also, by means of the ship of the desert,
had an intercourse with her ports on the Red Sea, and could thence
open a communication with Arabia, and through it, perhaps, with
India. Thus, also, she could exchange her merchandise or the rich
natural productions of the centre of Africa. The circumstance
mentioned in my topographical description (<a href="#Page_200">page
200.</a>), that in the reign of the fourth caliph after Mahomet,
this country was overrun by a powerful tribe from Yemen, and not
from the Hedjas, as was generally supposed, renders it very
probable, that that part of Arabia in particular had been deeply
engaged in the commerce of Meroe. The knowledge thus obtained of
its former wealth and power, its then entirely decayed condition,
and the facilities afforded by its ports to invaders, were likely
to induce a nation, then in full power, and inflamed by religious
zeal, to invade and lay waste that country to which it was
formerly, perhaps, tributary, or even subject.</p>

<p>A glance at the map is sufficient to show, that the commerce of
the Indies must have been much more easily carried on with Meroe
than with Egypt; for, whether the Ethiopians navigated directly to
India, or received the produce of that rich country, by the
caravans and vessels of the Arabians; in either case, she possessed
superior local advantages over Egypt. Her ports on the Red Sea were
better, the distance far shorter, and the dangerous navigation of
that sea in a great measure avoided.</p>

<p>Adule, supposed, by some, to be near the present Arkeko,
latitude 15° 30′ N., is called, by Pliny (vi. 29.) the very great
emporium<span class="pagenum" id="Page_325">[325]</span> of the
Troglodytes and the Ethiopians, and the commerce chiefly consisted
in ivory, horns of the rhinoceros, hides of the hippopotamus,
shells of the tortoise, sphinxes, and slaves.<a id=
"FNanchor_82"></a><a href="#Footnote_82" class="fnanchor">[82]</a>
According to Bruce, there are, at the entrance of the Arabian Gulf,
the ruins of a place, from which, to Arabia Felix, the passage only
requires a few hours. The direct commerce with Arabia, and sale of
her manufactures in that populous peninsula, must also have been
very great; but the commerce of Africa was, doubtless, the
principal source of the power of Meroe.</p>

<p>The superfluity of gold, which Herodotus (in his account of the
Ichthyophagi sent as ambassadors, or rather spies, by Cambyses to
the king of Ethiopia), describes as being applied to such common
purposes, that even the prisoners were bound in chains of that
metal, may, perhaps, have been a Greek mode of hyperbolically
expressing its great abundance. I believe the supply of this metal
to have been drawn chiefly from the interior. Diodorus says (lib.
i. 29.), and Strabo repeats the passage, without acknowledging his
author, “that island contains mines of gold, silver, iron, copper,
and great abundance of ebony, and various kinds of precious stone,
και μέταλλα χρυσου τε και αργύρου, &amp;c., but the search of the
Pasha after them has been fruitless. She may have derived a certain
portion from mines in her own territories, and even in the island,
which are now exhausted; but, from the limited traces of such mines
hitherto discovered, I conceive it more probable that she obtained
that abundance of the precious metals, not only from the now
exhausted mines in the Great Nubian desert<a id=
"FNanchor_83"></a><a href="#Footnote_83" class="fnanchor">[83]</a>
(see pages <a href="#Page_23">23.</a> and <a href=
"#Page_28">28.</a>), but principally from the centre or the south
of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_326">[326]</span> Africa. The
Turkish governors now, when they make their expeditions into the
Habeesh and the negro countries, frequently amass an immense
quantity of gold; it is said, as much as 2000 or 3000 ounces; and
before the conquest of the Pasha, I am informed that every peasant
girl wore gold ornaments to a large amount. The inhabitants of the
countries south of Sennaar are described to me as still possessing
great abundance of gold, which must, in fact, be the case, for many
merchants have told me that there is always plenty in the
markets.</p>

<p>The exclusive commerce which Meroe must have long enjoyed with
so considerable a portion of that vast continent, was quite
sufficient to raise her to a great height of opulence. The
countries of the interior, if not really conquered by her, would,
at all events, gladly exchange their gold, and other natural
productions, for her manufactures and merchandise, which,
doubtless, far exceeded in quality what they made themselves, or
could procure elsewhere, being the production of a people more
advanced in civilisation and the arts; while they, isolated by
immense deserts from the rest of the world, would be little
visited, except by the caravans from the metropolis. Gold was,
probably, not the only return these countries afforded to Meroe.
Brown has given an account of the productions of Darfour, and, as I
have said before, 2500 camel loads of gum are sent yearly from
Kordofan to Cairo. Iron mines have been found both in Kordofan and
Darfour. I have specimens of this metal from the latter country,
which is current in the bazaars, like money.<a id=
"FNanchor_84"></a><a href="#Footnote_84" class="fnanchor">[84]</a>
I may here remark, that, not improbably, the Ethiopian<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_327">[327]</span> stone, mentioned by Herodotus
as employed to make incisions in the bodies, for the purpose of
embalming and forming them into mummies, was iron procured from
that country by the Egyptians, who had no mines of their own. Ivory
is still found abundantly in Abyssinia, and also in the province of
Fazoukl; and elephants are always found in the territory of the
Bugara tribe, behind Kordofan. Probably Meroe received many other
commodities, with which an imperfect knowledge of those remote
regions prevents us from being acquainted; besides others, perhaps,
which are no longer produced.</p>

<p>Herodotus (Thalia, 97.) says,—“The Ethiopians on the confines of
Egypt, whom Cambyses subdued in his expedition, and those who
inhabit the sacred island of Nysa, celebrate festivals to Bacchus.
These Ethiopians and their neighbours bring, according to my
memory, two half measures of pure gold, two hundred (φάλαγγας) long
round pieces of ebony, five Ethiopian children, and twenty-large
elephants’ teeth.” This passage reminds me of that magnificent
procession in a tomb at Thebes, of the time of Thothmes III. Fifty
figures are represented, exclusive of the Egyptians, painted red;
six are black, and four of a dark brown, but apparently of the same
country. These people, not having the Egyptian dress, are doubtless
Ethiopian, and most of them are so called by the hieroglyphics. The
splendid presents which they are presenting to the royal owner of
the tomb, almost exactly correspond with the account just quoted
from Herodotus.</p>

<p>They consist of ivory, ebony, a most beautiful collection of
vases, and a variety of animals,—horses, cows, the giraffe,
capricorn, leopards, cynocephali, greyhounds, &amp;c. Among a
gorgeous pile of offerings appear heaps of gold and silver, skins,
precious wood, and indigo. In the same procession are also
thirty-seven white people, with very nearly the features of Jews,
although many, from the hieroglyphics, consider them to be
Scythians. Some of the latter are leading a chariot and horses, an
elephant, young<span class="pagenum" id="Page_328">[328]</span>
children, and one of them a bear; they are also carrying a variety
of elegant vases. I conceive these presents, with the exception,
perhaps, of the bear, to be chiefly from Ethiopia, and from the
richness and elegance of the form of the vases, the abundance of
gold and silver, and the curious manner in which the latter is
wrought into the form of the heads of animals, we have the very
strongest proofs of the exquisite taste, knowledge, and wealth of
the Ethiopians: but as this procession is so extremely interesting,
so intimately connected with Ethiopia, and is, at the same time,
one of the most gorgeous and magnificent paintings that adorn the
walls of Thebes, I have selected it from my Egyptian portfolio,
conceiving that it will give great additional value to this work to
publish it with all the colours, which still exist, almost quite
fresh. The hieroglyphics are unfortunately very much defaced, but
sufficient remain to distinguish in several instances the names of
the people and that of the King, Thothmes III., who reigned about
1500 B.C.</p>

<p>Parts <a href="#pl46">I.</a> <a href="#pl47">II.</a> <a href=
"#pl48">III.</a> and <a href="#pl49">IV.</a> form the whole of this
procession; they are drawn to a scale of two inches to a foot, so
that the reader may join them together, if he thinks proper. I will
give a detailed description of them according to the plates. The
first figure in <a href="#pl46">Part I.</a> has in one hand an
ornamented vase, containing perhaps dates or some other dried
fruit, in the other, apparently, an ivory club, and a string of
precious stones hanging from his arm. The second figure has a
couple of feathers in one hand, which are evidently those of the
ostrich, from the circumstance of the vase he carries in the other
containing the eggs. The third and fourth in this row bear a tree.
The fifth carries a bowl, apparently of dates, in one hand, and in
the other a couple of ostrich feathers, and a cord to which a
leopard is attached. The sixth man has a gold or gilded vase in his
hand, and has also charge of a monkey. The seventh bears a log of
ebony on his shoulder, and is also leading a capricorn, an animal
which abounds near Mount Sinai, and also, I believe, in the
Bahiouda desert. The eighth has a<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_329">[329]</span> log of ebony on his shoulder. The ninth,
tenth, and last, are negroes, which may be distinguished from their
colour and features. They have blue skull caps<a id=
"FNanchor_85"></a><a href="#Footnote_85" class="fnanchor">[85]</a>
and cinctures, with blue and red borders around their waists. The
two last are carrying elephants’ teeth, and one of them has a
string of precious stones, and the other the skin of a leopard
turned inside out. The other negro is carrying a log of ebony, and,
as will be observed, the light-coloured veins in that wood are
distinctly marked.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw11">
<figure id="pl46"><a href="images/pl46_large.jpg"><img src=
'images/pl46.jpg' alt=''></a>
<p class="ipubl">From a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins
Esq<sup>r</sup>.</p>

<p class="cp4">GRAND PROCESSION.<em>PART 1.</em></p>

<p class="cp2">From a Tomb at Thebes.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Printed in Colours by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The second row of figures in this plate are still more curious.
They are called Ethiopians. The cinctures and boots of each
individual are of a different pattern, rivalling in variety and
elegance the chintz morning dresses of our modern belles. These
Ethiopians have their hair dressed in curls above their foreheads,
and ringlets hanging down on their shoulders. The first is carrying
a piece of an elephant’s tooth and a vase in his hand; the others,
eleven in number, are bearing elegant descriptions of vases,
apparently of gold and silver; these, although unadorned with
figures and mythological subjects, are most exquisite in form, and
I am sure the reader will admit their decorations to be most
beautiful. Those carried by the third, fifth, and tenth figures of
the second row of this plate, apparently contain flowers; whether
these are artificial decorations of the vases, or really represent
plants,—varieties, perhaps, of the lotus peculiar to Ethiopia—is a
question I cannot decide. The necklaces which the third figure is
bearing are very elegant, apparently of lapis lazuli and gold. The
elegant vase the seventh figure is carrying, is either of ivory or
silver.</p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_330">[330]</span>The third row in
this plate contains a most interesting group of Ethiopians. The
first figure, bearing a log of ebony and a monkey on his shoulder,
is conducting a drove of seven oxen. I might have taken the liberty
to restore the forms of the latter; but, as will be seen by the
plate, the heads and fore-legs only are still remaining, showing
the curious and beautiful manner in which the Egyptians grouped
their cattle. Above the oxen is a curious group of dogs, not very
unlike the greyhounds that at present exist in Ethiopia. The next
group is very interesting; two Ethiopians are conducting a giraffe,
admirably drawn. A mischievous monkey is climbing up its neck. The
way in which he is conducted, with cords attached to his feet, is
curious, and the cincture of the Ethiopians leading him is formed
apparently of the skin of a giraffe, they being, perhaps,
inhabitants of the deserts where the animal is found. The next, or
fourth figure, is leading a monkey, and bearing a vase full of
ostrich eggs and feathers. The fifth figure is a negro, carrying a
tooth of an elephant and skins; he has a blue cap. I do not believe
that such caps were then worn, but that their hair is represented
blue, to distinguish it from the colour of their faces, which was
black; otherwise, from the same colours joining, it would have
appeared as if they wore no hair at all. The Egyptian border is a
great finish to the painting. The broad blue streak above the
top-line represents the heavens. The ground colour, which is
exactly the tint of the original, adds to the richness of the
painting, and throws out the white.</p>

<p><a href="#pl47">Part II.</a> is a continuation of the three rows
last described. The four figures in the top row are dark-coloured,
but not quite black. This is one of the very few instances in which
the Egyptians preserved any degree of difference between the usual
red colour and the black of the negroes. The pile of gorgeous
offerings in the centre of this plate is magnificent; the first row
contains two obelisks, perhaps of granite, beautifully
decorated<span class="pagenum" id="Page_331">[331]</span> vases
containing rings, which, from the hieroglyphics, we find are of
gold, sealed bags of the same, and precious stones, and heaps of
grain, and apparently fruit. The second row contains still richer
offerings: in the first line are two very prettily decorated vases,
laden with ingots of silver, and an elegant tray, on which are
rings, which, from their hieroglyphics, must be also of silver; and
another vase, containing, I think, indigo. The second line
comprises some very elegant vases, apparently of gold and silver,
and one blue glass bottle: the streaks of yellow in the latter are
curious. The third line includes beautifully-shaped vases, which,
from the hieroglyphics, are either full of silver and gold, or
actually made of those precious metals; and, what is very
remarkable in this line, there are several heads of animals, which,
from the hieroglyphics, and also from the colouring, are evidently
of silver and gold. There is the head of a capricorn, in gold; one
of an antelope, and another of a jackall, in silver; and one of a
leopard, and of a curious description of bird, apparently a cock,
in gold.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw11">
<figure id="pl47"><a href="images/pl47_large.jpg"><img src=
'images/pl47.jpg' alt=''></a>
<p class="ipubl">From a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins
Esq<sup>r</sup>.</p>

<p class="cp4">GRAND PROCESSION.<em>PART 2.</em></p>

<p class="cp2">From a Tomb at Thebes.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Printed in Colours by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The third row is equally rich. In the first line there are rings
of gold, and bags, which the reader will remark in the plate, are
also sealed; ostrich feathers, logs of ebony, and a cynocephalus,
perched comically in the centre. The lower line contains elephants’
teeth, a beautiful skin of a leopard, ingots and rings of gold, and
sealed bags of precious stones. At the end of each row is a scribe,
writing in his book with his pen an inventory of the different
offerings; behind the latter are gentlemen, perhaps of the
household of the king, with their white wands of office. All the
hieroglyphics above the figure are in the original of a blue
colour, as represented, with the exception of the two lines of
large hieroglyphics in this plate, forming part of the tablet
before a figure of the king, seated; but, as his majesty, in this
instance, is very plainly attired, I have not considered it
necessary to give a drawing of him.</p>

<p><a href="#pl48">Part III.</a> contains two rows of figures
immediately underneath<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_332">[332]</span> the three rows of <a href="#pl46">Part
I.</a> The people represented in the first row of this plate are
all white, with blue eyes, red hair, and pointed beards: they are
dressed in long robes, open in front, like the caftans of the
Turks. The first group is curious, exhibiting one of these men
leading a bear, and having on his shoulders a tooth of an elephant,
while behind him is a representation of that animal. The features
of these figures resemble those of the Jews: their complexion, and
one of them having a long glove in his hand, certainly indicate
their coming from a cold country. The elephant must be from
Ethiopia: if, therefore, they are the Scythians, as some suppose,
they must be employed as slaves bearing the produce of Ethiopia. It
is possible that they are natives of the mountains of Abyssinia,
who are now so much whiter than the natives of the valley of the
Nile of the same latitude; but I think it far more probable that
they are white slaves of the king of Ethiopia, sent to the Egyptian
king as the most acceptable present. The same people are leading an
elegant car and a pair of horses. The plate will show their
beautiful manner of drawing that animal, almost equal to the
Grecian. The lowest row represents the Egyptians leading two rows
of another race of white men. They are without beards, have blue
hair and eyes, and are dressed in long gowns: from their position,
they must be either strings of prisoners, or recruits drilling for
the army: behind them are their wives, curiously dressed, carrying
and leading their children. The latter are painted red, as if born
in Ethiopia, whither their parents had been brought prisoners. The
Egyptian border at the bottom of this plate heightens considerably
the effect of the painting.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw11">
<figure id="pl48"><a href="images/pl48_large.jpg"><img src=
'images/pl48.jpg' alt=''></a>
<p class="ipubl">From a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins
Esq<sup>r</sup>.</p>

<p class="cp4">GRAND PROCESSION.<em>PART 3.</em></p>

<p class="cp2">From a Tomb at Thebes.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Printed in Colours by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p><a href="#pl49">Part IV.,</a> the last compartment of this grand
procession, represents, in the upper row, five of the
Jewish-looking figures, with their aquiline noses, bearing large
vases. The second bears an elegant bow and quiver full of arrows;
the third has a long glove in his hand; and the fourth, perhaps, an
ivory bottle. The offerings in the centre are almost similar to
those I have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_333">[333]</span>
described before. There are some bundles of reeds, and two vases of
a blue article, perhaps indigo. The lowest row contains a group of
seven male Ethiopian slaves, recruits I conceive for the army;
behind them are their wives and children; one of the latter in a
pannier suspended from the head of its mother. The figures in this
row are not, like those above, bearing presents; the Egyptian
scribe at the end is, however, represented, as in the other
instances, writing on his scroll, which confirms the idea that they
are slaves forming part of the tribute to the great Egyptian
king.</p>

<p>Athenæus (see lib. v.), in his description of the festival given
by Ptolemy Philadelphus to the Alexandrians, mentions, that in the
procession there was a number of Ethiopians, carrying the teeth of
600 elephants. Others bore two thousand blocks of ebony, and some
were loaded with vessels of gold and silver, containing the finest
gold. Besides these, there were 2,400 dogs, men bearing trees, and
a number of animals, both beasts and birds, parroquets, and other
birds of Ethiopia, carried in cages; 130 Ethiopian sheep, 300
Arabian, and 20 from the island of Nubia; 26 Indian buffaloes,
white as snow, and 8 from Ethiopia; three brown bears, and a white
one, 14 leopards, 16 panthers, 4 lynxes, 1 giraffe, and a
rhinoceros of Ethiopia. The reader has only to refer to my drawings
to perceive how admirably the procession, represented on the walls
of this tomb, erected at the time of Thothmes III., considering it
also as a pictorial representation, agrees with the one described
by Athenæus, and the tribute mentioned by Herodotus as paid to the
Persians 1000 years after the reign of Thothmes.</p>

<p>In the voyage of Scylax round the world mention is made of the
Ethiopians. Although the account is rather confused, particularly
as to their situation, the description agrees so remarkably, in
many instances, with the people represented in these plates, that I
cannot refrain from giving part of it. “The nation whom they
traffic with are the Ethiopians, who sell them skins of stags and
lions, precious stones, skins and teeth of elephants, and
droves<span class="pagenum" id="Page_334">[334]</span> of domestic
animals. The richest furniture of these Ethiopians consists in
<em>carved vases</em>, and of bottles of ivory. They wear beards
and <em>long hair</em>; they are the most beautiful men on the
earth: he who has the finest figure is chosen their chief. They are
excellent horsemen, and very skilful archers. They drink milk, but
also wine, which they make in great quantities from the vines that
they cultivate. They have a large town, where the Phœnicians carry
their merchandise. Some pretend that the Ethiopians inhabit a vast
territory, extending from Egypt to the sea.” The skins, precious
stones, ivory, herds of cattle, carved vases, ivory bottles, long
hair, use of the bow and arrows, agree in an extraordinary manner
with the representations in these plates. The large town, to which
the Phœnicians traded, was, perhaps, Meroe.</p>

<p>This grand procession may perhaps be merely a representation of
an amicable present made on the part of the Ethiopians to the king
Thothmes; but as that Egyptian monarch waged war against Ethiopia,
built the temple of Semneh, and left his name in an inscription on
the rocks at Toumbos, this painting (particularly as it is depicted
in the most conspicuous part of his tomb) may reasonably be
supposed to represent either a tribute from the conquered regions,
or the price at which Ethiopia obtained a peace.</p>

<div class="figcenterplate iw11">
<figure id="pl49"><a href="images/pl49_large.jpg"><img src=
'images/pl49.jpg' alt=''></a>
<p class="ipubl">From a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins
Esq<sup>r</sup>.</p>

<p class="cp4">GRAND PROCESSION.<em>PART 4.</em></p>

<p class="cp2">From a Tomb at Thebes.</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Published by Longman, Rees & C<sup>o</sup>.
April 6<sup>th</sup>. 1835.</em>
</p>

<p class="ipubb"><em>Printed in Colours by C. Hullmandel.</em>
</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>When Egypt grew into importance, before the commencement of
those wars which were so fatal to the prosperity of the kingdom of
Meroe, her colonies in that country would be a great source of
wealth; receiving the manufactures of the mother country, and
sending back in return the rich productions of the more northern
valley of the Nile. The Bahr el Abiad and the Bahr el Azruk would
enable her merchants to carry their manufactures among the wild
natives of the interior. It is now impossible to say how far that
commerce extended in that direction. The difference of religion,
supposing it to have existed, was probably not very great, nor does
history lead us to suppose, that there existed the same bigotry
which now separates the Mahometan<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_335">[335]</span> from the Pagan. The former religion,
particularly at its commencement, was most intolerant; its
believers being almost bound to propagate it with the sword. This
will account for the little communication which, according to the
tradition of the country, has existed for several centuries between
the present inhabitants of Shendy, that is, Meroe, and the still
wilder tribes of the interior. The Arab princes of this country
made excursions into the interior, not as merchants, to exchange
the produce of the land, and diffuse the seeds of knowledge and
civilisation, but with arms in their hands, to force their weaker
neighbours to embrace their faith, and, in later times, to drag
their children into captivity; but we cannot suppose that a wise
and civilised people could have adopted so impolitic a course. The
account given by the historians of the different sects which
existed, even in the kingdom of Meroe, prove that toleration was
then allowed.</p>

<p>Meroe, therefore, possessed local advantages far greater than
have been enjoyed by many great commercial states; and I now hope
to show, that her internal resources, until exhausted or decayed,
were sufficient to insure a continuation of that prosperity. Her
great superiority over other states would consist, not only in the
productions of the soil, but principally in her standing singly
pre-eminent in civilisation. That science and knowledge of the
arts, when applied to commerce, enriched her citizens, and enabled
them to indulge their taste for luxury, for architectural ornament,
and to encourage her artists. What was of greater importance, it
would afford to many the means of devoting their lives to the
pursuit of literature; the same activity would, of course, to a
certain degree, be applied to the improvement of her manufactures,
and the production of useful and ornamental articles, for which the
natives of the interior would gladly give in exchange that precious
metal, which is only valuable for what it procures.</p>

<p>My article on the state of the arts at Meroe will show
the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_336">[336]</span> skill and
science possessed by her inhabitants; which, with their wealth and
commercial habits, would be employed in useful and elegant
inventions, with their monopoly of which their uncivilised
neighbours would be unable to interfere. I have stated in my
topographical description of the pyramids of Meroe, how the
evidence of all travellers—that a great part of the soil of Egypt,
and the whole of the Delta, has been brought down from Ethiopia by
the Nile,—agrees with the testimony of the historians, particularly
of Diodorus, and the information they received in a country, the
natives of which were more likely to conceal than invent such an
account.</p>

<p>The first great source of the power of Meroe was probably the
extreme fertility of her soil, and the abundance of her harvests.
Those banks, which are now in a great many instances entirely
covered by the sands of the desert, were doubtless then overspread
with that rich soil which astonishes the traveller in Egypt, and
her country was resorted to perhaps by the natives of less favoured
climes, as the richest under the sun.<a id=
"FNanchor_86"></a><a href="#Footnote_86" class="fnanchor">[86]</a>
With regard to her mines, notwithstanding what Diodorus says, I
suspect, as formerly stated, that this great source of her wealth
was derived more from the centre of Africa; but it is true that the
interior of the island has never yet been fully explored. If any
remains of those riches now exist, access to them is almost
impossible, at all events for an individual, in consequence of the
number of ferocious and terrible animals with which that tract is
infested.</p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_337">[337]</span>I have described
Meroe, such as she must have been in the zenith of her
greatness,—the emporium of the commerce of interior Africa, the
cradle and early seat of arts, science, and civilisation. Such was
she in the height of her prosperity; but, as the sun which rises
must set, and nation must succeed nation in the career of
improvement, I must now endeavour to account for her gradual
decline, and the chain of circumstances which finally caused her
name to be erased from the list of kingdoms. The first cause
perhaps was the failure of her internal resources, in consequence
of the Nile carrying down yearly to Egypt a portion of her richest
soil, and the deserts encroaching on her plains. She thus became
dependent on foreign countries for an adequate supply of those
necessaries, of which her territory perhaps formerly produced a
superfluity. Those mines also, whether on her own territory or
farther in the interior, which furnished such an abundance of the
precious metal, would in course of time become exhausted; or
accidental circumstances might interrupt her commercial intercourse
with the countries which supplied them. Her inhabitants, finding
the soil swept away by the Nile, would follow the course of the
river, and establish themselves in Egypt. The latter country,
besides the extraordinary advantages afforded by it to the
cultivators, would, by instructions received from these Ethiopian
colonies, almost immediately rise to an equal rank of civilisation
and knowledge. We have seen that the same religion, the same
mysteries, the same writing, and the same style of architecture,
existed in the two countries. The land of Egypt would increase
every year in fertility, and the tree of knowledge, planted in that
genial soil, would spread wide its branches. The activity too of a
more northern region, and the energies of a less corrupted nation,
would raise the people of Egypt above those of Ethiopia, then
perhaps become more luxurious, and consequently more indolent.</p>

<p>In the earliest ages, Meroe might have profited by a commerce
with her Egyptian colonies; the markets of the latter
country<span class="pagenum" id="Page_338">[338]</span> might, for
a short time, have been supplied with produce and manufactures of
Arabia and the Indies, from the mother country; but it is not to be
supposed that the Egyptians would have been so deficient in
intelligence, and the Arabians in common sense, as not to perceive
the advantage of a direct communication.<a id=
"FNanchor_87"></a><a href="#Footnote_87" class="fnanchor">[87]</a>
The Egyptian ports of Myos Hormos and Berenice, and others,
possessed also the advantage of being less distant from the river,
and afforded to the Arabians the means of supplying rich and
populous Egypt with the productions of the Indies and the
peninsula. Philostratus (2 de Vitâ Apollonii, l. iii. c. 35.) says,
that a certain prince named Eythus (who is supposed by some, but, I
conceive, erroneously, to be Esau) dispossessed the Egyptians of
their trade in the Red Sea, making a law, that they should not
navigate that sea with more than one merchant ship at a time; but
the Egyptians built one of immense size, to supply the place of
several. Their trade at that time could not have been very
extensive, if it could be carried on by any one vessel; but
perhaps, as in the time of Joseph, who (see Genesis xxxvii. 25.)
was sold by his brethren to a company of Ishmaelites, the
descendants of Ishmael, the son of Abraham by Hagar, 1730 B.C.,
travelling from Gilead, with their camels, bearing spices and myrrh
for the Egyptian market, they had a considerable land commerce with
the Arabians: the caravan I have just alluded to must, by the
nature of the produce, have come from Arabia.</p>

<p>The Jews, in the time of Solomon, carried on a great trade in
the Red Sea, and imported gold from Ophir. “And Huram sent him, by
the hands of his servants, ships, and servants that had knowledge
of the sea; and they went with the servants of Solomon to Ophir,
and took thence 450 talents of gold, and brought them to King
Solomon.” (2 Chron. viii. 18.)—“And the Queen of Sheba (chap. ix.
9.) gave King Solomon 120 talents of gold, and of<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_339">[339]</span> spices great abundance, and
precious stones.” And in the same chapter, 13th and 14th verses, we
find that Solomon received, “in one year, 666 talents of gold,
beside that which chapmen and merchants brought; and all the kings
of Arabia brought gold and silver to Solomon.” These passages are
important, as showing one particular district of Ethiopia, where
gold was found in abundance. The gold brought by the chiefs of
Arabia, I conceive not to have been the natural production of that
country, but the fruit of their industry and commerce with the
Ethiopians. As Solomon was son-in-law to the Pharaoh of Egypt, the
latter was, probably, not excluded from the commerce. Ezekiel
mentions Ethiopia as one of the upholders of Egypt; and (chapter
xxx. verse 9.) he says, “In that day shall messengers go forth from
me in ships to make the careless Ethiopians afraid, and great pain
shall come upon them, as in the day of Egypt.” The expression
“careless,” I conceive, alludes to the security which they, no
doubt, felt in their power, and the natural protection their rocky
cataracts afforded them for resisting an invader. Their being
afraid of ships almost leads me to suppose that they could have had
little or no navy, or wherefore that apprehension? for there is no
doubt that their land army, even in the most distant times, was
very great. I have shown, in my historical chapter, that Zerah, the
Ethiopian, marched with a host of a thousand thousand, and three
hundred chariots.</p>

<p>But these remarks regard chiefly the navigation, for whether the
produce was brought in the vessels of Eythus (whom I conceive to
have been an Arabian king), of the Jews, or of the Tyrians (Strabo,
c. 16.), or Syrians (<em>Id.</em> 17.), and eventually by the ships
of the Ptolemies and Cæsars, little affects the question, as Egypt
was, in every case, the emporium of the merchandise. That
enterprising spirit and activity which always characterise a rising
nation, would lead the Egyptians into the markets of the centre of
Africa, and thus inflict another blow on the prosperity of Meroe.
We know what Alexandria became, from the immense commerce with
the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_340">[340]</span> East which it
continued to enjoy, notwithstanding the impediments occasioned by
the ignorance and barbarism of its governments, until the
Portuguese discovery of the passage by the Cape. After that event,
which led the commerce of the Indies into another channel,
Alexandria and Kosseer dwindled into obscurity, having lost, as
Meroe had previously done, that great source of wealth.</p>

<p>Strabo says, quoting from Cicero, that Auletes, the father of
Cleopatra, drew from Egypt 12,500 talents, more than two millions
and a half sterling. Diodorus only calculated the revenue at half
that sum. The observations which Strabo afterwards makes are
important. “If,” says he, “the revenue was so considerable, under
the negligent and bad rule of that prince, what will it be now that
it is governed with so much care, and that the commerce of the
Indies and of the country of the Troglodites is increased so much;
for formerly,” said he, “they counted only twenty vessels, who
dared to advance beyond the entrance of the Arabian Gulf, whilst
now considerable fleets sail to the Indies and to the extremities
of Ethiopia, whence the most precious merchandise is brought into
Egypt, and thence sent into other countries. In this manner they
have a double tax on the imports and exports, in proportion to the
value of the merchandise;” and he adds, that “Alexandria is the
principal depôt for their merchandise, and the place of commerce
which furnishes other countries with it in great abundance.” This
account is curious, as it shows that, until the time of Strabo, the
Egyptian trade with the Indians was not very extensive: its
increase would naturally diminish the commercial relations of
Meroe.<a id="FNanchor_88"></a><a href="#Footnote_88" class=
"fnanchor">[88]</a></p>

<p>It is also remarkable, that about the time when Meroe began to
decline, Egypt was most famous for her commerce. Psammetichus, who
reigned six centuries and a half before our era, almost immediately
after the expulsion or retirement of the Ethiopian dynasty, gained
great wealth by trade before he was King of Egypt.<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_341">[341]</span> The richest and most
magnificent tombs of private individuals, now remaining at Thebes,
belong chiefly to that era, proving a degree of opulence unequalled
at any other period.</p>

<p>I have shown, in my historical chapter, that, notwithstanding
the diminution of the trade of Meroe with India and Arabia, she was
still able to resist the armies of the Egyptians. The pyramids of
Geezah and the tombs of Beni Hassan are proofs of the great wealth
and power of the latter, even so early as the 16th dynasty; and
during the 18th dynasty the Kings Thothmes, Amunoph, &amp;c.
invaded Ethiopia. Yet, notwithstanding the power of those princes,
it seems, according to the evidence of Herodotus<a id=
"FNanchor_89"></a><a href="#Footnote_89" class="fnanchor">[89]</a>,
and of the monuments themselves, that Rameses II. was the only
Egyptian king who subdued Ethiopia; but a hero sprang up in the 8th
century, who, in return, conquered Egypt. Shabak, and his
successors Shabatok and Tahraka, reigned over that country
forty-four years. The power of Meroe must have been very great,
even at that period, to have enabled her armies to make such an
important conquest, and extend her sway from Meroe to the
Mediterranean. It is also wonderful that it should have been so
little impaired by the diminution of her commerce, and the decline
of her internal resources. I have described the power of the
priests, whose influence was so great at the time of Ergamenes, who
was contemporary to Ptolemy, that that prince, who had received a
liberal education, had recourse to the violent measure of attacking
and slaying them at their altars. The chief cause of the decline of
Meroe was probably the injury this theocratic government had
inflicted on the country; for we cannot suppose that the people
would have submitted to the destruction of the ministers of their
religion, had there not been some deep causes of complaint, and a
general consciousness that their mismanagement and bigotry had
plunged the country into distress. The lamentable decline of the
arts at this period proves that the resources of the country
were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_342">[342]</span> entirely
occupied in maintaining a force sufficient to defend it from
invasion, and its diminished commerce and wealth offered less means
of encouragement to artists. War, not the fine arts and
intellectual cultivation, was become the necessary occupation of
the nation. The resources of Meroe, even for some time afterwards,
must have been considerable, that their Queen Candace could check
the Roman arms; but the expedition of Petronius, already described,
ruining all the country between Syene and Napata, and destroying
the cities which had escaped from the previous desolating war
between the Ethiopians and the Egyptians, must have inflicted a
deep blow on the prosperity of Meroe. That queen, indeed, followed
the Roman army in its retreat, and finally, drove them from
Premnis; but the long series of wars would, of course, hasten the
decline of a country whose internal resources had long been
gradually diminishing. Pliny says<a id="FNanchor_90"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_90" class="fnanchor">[90]</a>, that at the time of
Candace, which name for many years the Ethiopian queens had
assumed, there were few edifices in the city of Meroe; but, after
mentioning the holy shrine of Hammon, and the small temple and
chapels on the road, bearing testimony to the power of the
Ethiopians, he describes the island as once of great renown, having
an army of 250,000 men, and 400,000 artificers. The number of
artificers, supposing even that in that class are comprised
artists, craftsmen, manufacturers, and all labourers not
agriculturists, is enormous, and proves a vast degree of industry
and civilisation.</p>

<p>Even in the eighth century, after the country had become
Christian, her monarchs were so powerful, that it was asserted,
about the year 737, that the kings of Nubia and Ethiopia could
bring into the field 100,000 horse, and as many camels. When
Christianity was spread over Ethiopia, the painter’s and sculptor’s
skill would be no longer necessary to make representations of their
gods but the ministers of the gospel at that time were more
occupied in schismatical disputes, and in making converts to
their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_343">[343]</span> peculiar and
often fanciful tenets, than in propagating the pure principles of
their religion, dispelling the darkness of superstition, and
advancing the civilisation and prosperity of the kingdom.</p>

<p>According to the tradition which I learned at Dongolah, in the
reign of the fourth caliph after Mahomet this country was conquered
by the Arabs, and the inhabitants blended with the conquerors, who
forced them to become Mussulmen, or drove them out of the country,
probably into Abyssinia.</p>

<p>After all that has been said, those who view the present rude
and degraded state of this territory may feel a difficulty in
believing that it ever could be so enlightened and flourishing as I
have now described it. They ought, however, to consider, that it is
not more surprising that Meroe, under the uncivilised and ignorant
dominion of the Arabs, would lose all knowledge of the arts, than
that the little island of Rhodes, once eminent for power,
civilisation, and commerce, should now, although not, like Meroe,
deprived of her rich soil, be equally ignorant and barbarous.
Syracuse, from the same cause, had risen to such a height of
civilisation and power, as to be able to resist the vast efforts of
the Athenians; and finally, with little assistance, inflict a
deadly blow on the prosperity of the city of Minerva. What is
Tunis, compared to Carthage? Where are Tyre and Sidon, the cities
of Phœnicia? If it was necessary, numerous similar examples might
be adduced, of the vicissitudes to which kingdoms and cities are
liable. Sufficient reasons have been assigned for the downfall of
Meroe. The failure of her commerce; her rich soil carried away, or
swallowed up by the deserts, and the consequent diminution of her
population; her mines exhausted, and the active rivalry of a nation
finally more powerful; the long and ruinous wars with Egypt; and at
last the Arabian conquest, swept away every trace of her affluence
and civilisation: the invaders, with a brand in one hand, burning
her libraries<a id="FNanchor_91"></a><a href="#Footnote_91" class=
"fnanchor">[91]</a> and edifices, and in the other the sword,
forcing her<span class="pagenum" id="Page_344">[344]</span>
subjects to embrace a different faith, and renounce the arts and
knowledge of their ancestors.</p>

<p>In a country where the arts are now totally unknown, and which
is become little better than a desert, it is not surprising to find
commerce reduced to the mere exchange of the most absolute
necessaries of life, and a few trifling superfluities. Small
caravans occasionally go from Shendy to Abyssinia. Sometimes the
rulers of the latter country do not permit them to enter their
dominions, and civil wars not unfrequently put an entire stop to
the trade; but when, as is generally the case, the merchants
succeed in procuring an entrance, they inform me that the profits
on their Cairo goods are enormous. They receive in exchange a
little ivory; gold, the value of which is several dollars per ounce
lower there than in Egypt; a very fine species of cotton scarf,
much esteemed and worn by the Abyssinian women in the Turkish
harems, and the Abyssinian coffee; which, although not equal to the
Mocha, is almost the only kind drunk in Nubia: but their chief
return is in slaves. The wars which generally distract that
unfortunate country furnish to each state abundance of these
victims, which, like cattle, are exchanged with the merchant for
the luxuries of Egypt: few are the Turks who have not Abyssinian
girls in their harems, and I have seen numerous eunuchs brought
from that country. It is horrid to think that beings called
Christians should be guilty of such enormities; but there is no
doubt of the fact. The slaves, whether girls or boys, by compulsion
or inclination, invariably become Mahometans.</p>

<p>A caravan also occasionally goes to Souakim, where they get
India stuffs, Mocha coffee, and a great part of the spices, the use
of which is so general. Small caravans also go to Kordofan and
Darfour. In the former of these countries the Pasha of Egypt
monopolises the richest produce, as gum, ivory, and ostrich
feathers; but Kordofan is the chief mart of the negro slaves. The
jealousy of the King of Darfour against any persons going or coming
from the dominions of the Pasha of Egypt, at whose power
he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_345">[345]</span> trembles,
prevents that commerce being now very extensive. The merchants are
very illiterate, and in general extremely debauched. Even their
interest does not check their dissoluteness, or protect the honour
of their poor Abyssinian female slaves. The supply of gold is very
much diminished: some, however, is still found, and of the finest
quality; but in every direction the caravans regard slaves as the
most advantageous exchange for their goods. They drive them like
cattle over the burning sands, and, what I have been an eye-witness
to, over the bones of their brethren which lie bleaching in the
desert. The ingenuity of their masters seems to be exercised, not
in alleviating their pains, but in devising how to economise their
own purses, by discovering on how little and how coarse food their
victims can exist, and what extent of fatigue and suffering they
can endure, and still remain saleable. In the district which we
have seen to have been once the emporium of the East, there remains
only this miserable traffic. Instead of palaces and splendid
edifices, there are now only rude and miserable huts. Of the power,
civilisation, and wealth of Meroe, not a vestige remains to
corroborate the testimony of the historians but a few small
temples, and the splendid sepulchres of her departed kings.</p>

<hr class="chap">

<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_346">[346]</span><a id=
"c22"></a>CHAPTER XXII.</h2>

<p class="sch">ON THE ARTS OF MEROE.</p>

<p class="csum">AFFLUENCE WOULD INTRODUCE A TASTE FOR THE ARTS. —
THE HEAT OF THE CLIMATE FAVOURABLE TO SEDENTARY PURSUITS. — PRIVATE
EMULATION WOULD AFFORD FURTHER ENCOURAGEMENT. — DESIRE OF
DISTINGUISHING THEMSELVES BY INTELLECTUAL PURSUITS. — TESTIMONY OF
DIODORUS THAT KNOWLEDGE WAS VERY GENERALLY DIFFUSED IN ETHIOPIA. —
THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE THE OLDEST SPECIMENS OF ETHIOPIAN ART. —
CIVILISATION OF THE ETHIOPIANS PROVED BY THEIR MONUMENTAL EDIFICES.
— THE ETHIOPIANS INVENTORS OF THE ARCH. — EGYPTIAN ARCHES. —
ETHIOPIAN SCULPTURE. — PROBABLE CAUSE OF THEIR PECULIAR STYLE. —
REASONS FOR PRESERVING IT. — DEFERENCE OF THE PTOLEMIES AND ROMANS
FOR THE SUPERSTITIONS OF THE EGYPTIANS. — PLEASING EFFECT OF THE
EGYPTIAN AND ETHIOPIAN SCULPTURE. — ADMIRABLE MANNER OF DRAWING
ANIMALS, HIEROGLYPHICS, AND THEIR TASTE IN ORNAMENTS. — COLOURING
ON ETHIOPIAN SCULPTURE. — THE KNOWLEDGE OF THE ARTS DESCENDED FROM
ETHIOPIA. — COMPLEXION OF THE ANCIENT AND PRESENT INHABITANTS. —
ACCURACY OF DIODORUS’ ACCOUNT PROVED BY THE MONUMENTS. — TASTE FOR
THE ARTS IN A NATION INSEPARABLE FROM OTHER INTELLECTUAL PURSUITS.
— WORKS OF THE ETHIOPIAN KING TIRHAKA. — REVIEW OF THE ANTIQUITIES
IN ETHIOPIA. — FOLLY OF COMPARING THE PRESENT WITH THE ANCIENT
INHABITANTS OF THE VALLEY OF THE NILE.</p>

<p class="nind"><span class="sc">It</span> has appeared in the
preceding chapters, that the kingdom of Meroe was the emporium of
the interior of Africa, and from her rich productions, and the
abundance of her precious metals, was resorted to by the
inhabitants of the regions in her vicinity. This influx of
population would naturally oblige many to employ their capital and
talent in other pursuits besides commerce. Every branch of industry
would gradually improve; a rich and luxurious people would
constantly desire new objects to please the fancy, and contribute
to the enjoyment of life. The son of the merchant, who had earned
great wealth, would, as in our days, be able to reap the fruits of
that industry. Some might indulge in foolish extravagance; but
others would place their enjoyment in the encouragement of the
arts, or in those studies which gratify<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_347">[347]</span> and enrich the mind, and, at the same time,
tend to improve and civilise society.</p>

<p>In so fertile a country, a great proportion of the principal
landed proprietors, besides those who had realised large fortunes
by commerce, must have been able to pass their lives in literary
leisure, and employ their fortune in the encouragement of the arts,
and the propagation of science. Even the heat of the climate would
contribute to the advancement of civilisation. In Europe,
particularly in its northern districts, how many consume a great
portion of their time and fortune in the healthy, but rough,
amusement of the chase; but in the tropics, the greatest luxury is
repose. I have remarked repeatedly, that the rich natives of the
climates of the East rarely expose themselves to the heat of the
sun, except when necessity absolutely requires it, as on a journey;
and even then as little as possible. It is considered one of the
greatest advantages of rank and fortune, that its possessors can
enjoy the luxury of shade during the whole day, while their less
fortunate brethren are obliged to toil under a burning sun.</p>

<p>The same natural causes, operating equally in ancient times,
would give to the Ethiopians an inclination for sedentary pursuits,
which would be advantageous to their advancement in the different
branches of science, as soon as their taste for them had been
unfolded. That rivalry which always arises among bodies of men,
would urge to the improvement of the arts. The great and wealthy
would endeavour to surpass each other in the beauty and
magnificence of their palaces, and they would emulously display
their piety to the gods, by contributing to the building and
decorating the temples, and their munificence and generosity, by
the construction of edifices of public utility.</p>

<p>This is not an imaginary picture. Let the reader look at the
drawings of Meroe, and candidly say whether, in a country
containing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_348">[348]</span>
architects able to construct such chaste and beautiful monuments,
men could have spent the superfluity of wealth, derived from
commerce, in mere sensual indulgence? Was the knowledge of
architecture, sculpture, and painting, exclusively employed in the
construction of the sepulchres of her monarchs and the temples of
the gods? Can it be supposed that those who must have had the
means, would content themselves with wretched huts, when their
wealth enabled them to employ their skilful architects in erecting
commodious and elegant habitations, suitable to their rank? Can we
imagine that the gentry of a kingdom, famous in antiquity for its
civilisation, would spend their time, like the Turks, in listless
indolence, and would not seek to distinguish themselves by studies
and learning? But Diodorus, speaking of the language of
hieroglyphics, says, that, in Egypt, the priests only were
acquainted with them, whilst, in Ethiopia, they were generally
understood. This shows that civilisation was widely diffused among
the people, who apparently were not content, like their neighbours,
to view without understanding the tablets of writing and sculpture
which ornamented the walls of their temples.</p>

<p>Unfortunately, the remains of pure Ethiopian art, at all events,
those of the earliest period, are but few. The pyramids of Nouri,
but particularly those of Meroe, must have been built many ages
before the temples of Gibel el Birkel, especially the one finished
by Tirhaka: the style of the sculpture differs so widely, that a
slight examination only is necessary to prove that a long period
must have intervened before, in a country like this, the style
could have so materially changed. I place, then, the pyramids of
Meroe among the earliest specimens now existing of the skill of the
Ethiopians. In my description of those ruins, I have extolled the
beautiful simplicity of the architecture, imposing, and, at the
same time, elegant, in a superior degree to the immense pyramids of
Geezah. The sepulchres of Meroe delight us by evincing the greatest
purity of taste, while they are not,<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_349">[349]</span> like the Egyptian pyramids, monuments of
the tyranny and oppression of their kings.</p>

<p>The different plates I have given of the sculpture in the
porticoes of Meroe, at Gibel el Birkel (see Plates <a href=
"#pl10">X.,</a> <a href="#pl11">XI.,</a> and <a href=
"#pl12">XII.,</a> and particularly Plate XI., which contains a
number of vases,) display a great degree of elegance, and, perhaps,
a refined simplicity, equal to what we find in Egyptian
sculpture.</p>

<p>The offerings (see <a href="#pl29">Plate XXIX.</a>) are the
animals of the country and surrounding deserts. The group with
branches of the palm tree, is quite Ethiopian, and very beautiful;
but the splendid procession alluded to, in treating of the
commerce, as existing in a tomb at Thebes, is particularly
instructive: the Ethiopians are there represented carrying presents
to a great man at the time of Thothmes. Besides the ivory, ebony,
gold, silver, skins, and animals, enumerated in my last chapter,
they are also represented bearing different kinds of vases. These
evince a degree of elegance and refinement which has never been
surpassed. They are not ornamented with figures like the Phœnician,
Etruscan, Greek, and Roman vases, but in taste and elegant
simplicity of form they are not surpassed by those of any nation.
Such discoveries as these afford the strongest evidence of the
civilisation of a people. No learning or profound knowledge of the
arts is required to understand, that a nation, among whom have been
wrought such rich and magnificent vases as are now to be found in
London, could be barbarians.</p>

<p>When a people have attained a certain degree of taste, such
knowledge is never confined to one branch. The cultivated minds,
which could appreciate such works of art as the pyramids of Meroe,
and were accustomed to such a degree of elegance in their domestic
ornaments, could not, I conceive, have been uncivilised, generally
speaking. These vases, like the chairs and furniture represented on
the walls of Thebes, admit us at once to a knowledge of the private
life of the people. We cannot doubt<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_350">[350]</span> the luxury and refinement of the private
life of the Egyptians, when we find represented, in one of the
tombs of the kings at Thebes, more beautiful patterns of chairs,
cushions, &amp;c. than are now to be found in Europe. As little can
we imagine, that apartments, ornamented with such elegant vases as
the Ethiopians are represented offering to the Egyptians, would not
in every other respect be furnished with equal taste. I think,
then, that I am not too bold in asserting, that the people who had
skill to devise, and ability to execute, such beautiful works of
art, are entitled to a very high rank in the scale of civilisation.
To the other proofs that they are Ethiopian, I should add, their
long curly hair, their peculiar dress, differing from the Egyptian,
the similarity with the few vases which I found sculptured on the
walls at Meroe, (see <a href="#pl11">Plate XI.</a>) and, most of
all, the hieroglyphics written over the procession, which state
them to be from the land of Ethiopia.</p>

<p>Another important proof of the extensive architectural skill of
the Ethiopians is their knowledge and employment of the arch. In my
narrative, I have described that which exists in one of the
porticoes of Meroe, having the form of the segment of a circle, and
have mentioned also the pointed arch in a pyramid at Gibel el
Berkel. Both are constructed on the true principle of being
supported only by lateral pressure. The pyramids of Meroe being the
oldest, we may say that the earliest specimen of the arch now
existing is on the site of the capital of Ethiopia. I conceive it
very likely, that the necessity of finding some method of resisting
the tropical rains led the Ethiopians to the invention of the arch;
as of course, slight even as they are here, they would be obliged
to pay more attention to their roofs than in Egypt, where, with few
exceptions, sometimes, especially in Upper Egypt, not exceeding
once in the year, it may almost be said never to rain. The rains
which fall at Shendy are, however, rarely heavy. As I have noticed
in my topographical description (<a href="#Page_156">page
156.</a>), the only specimens of the arch in Egypt belong to that
period<span class="pagenum" id="Page_351">[351]</span> when wars
existed between the two countries, and the Egyptians would have the
opportunity of learning that invention from the Ethiopians. It is
also singular, that there is not a stone arch in Egypt regularly
constructed, except one, before mentioned, of the time of
Psammitichus, who reigned after the Ethiopian dynasty. The only
specimens which show the Egyptians to have been acquainted with the
true mode of forming one, is a brick arch, erected at the time of
Amunoph, and another of the time of Thothmes III. They are formed
of crude bricks; the size of which is seven inches by five. (See
<a href="#i28">Vignettes.</a>) Is it not singular, that although
these and other brick arches at Thebes are regularly constructed,
the specimens there and elsewhere in stone, lead us to infer, that
they were acquainted with the beauty of the arch as an
architectural ornament, but not with its great utility? I refer to
that arch near to the temple excavated out of the rock, in the
valley of Hassaseef, at Thebes, of the time of Amunoph, which is
formed by approaching stones (see <a href="#i27">Vignette</a>), and
numerous excavations in the valley of the Nile, where the roofs are
hollowed slightly into the arched form. As, therefore, no specimen
of even a brick arch exists before the reign of those kings who
carried their arms into Ethiopia; and as the pyramids of Ethiopia
are evidently so very ancient, it seems highly probable that this
important discovery had there its origin.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw16">
<figure id="i27"><a href="images/i27.jpg"><img src='images/i27.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">STONE ARCH AT THEBES.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_352">[352]</span>The tomb in
which the elliptical arch (see <a href="#i28">Vignette</a>) exists,
is near the valley of the Sepulchre of the Queens, at Thebes. It is
almost filled up to the ceiling with mummies, which occasioned
great difficulty to get at the spring of the arch. It is a painted
tomb, and the roof is plastered; and over the plaster, along the
centre, is a line of hieroglyphics, containing the name of Amunoph
I.; proving the existence of the knowledge of the arch in Egypt,
about fifteen centuries and a half before the Christian era. It is
also very remarkable, that this arch is not a segment of a circle,
but elliptical. A part of the ceiling being broken, discovered the
space between the ceiling and the rock.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw19">
<figure id="i28"><a href="images/i28.jpg"><img src='images/i28.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">BRICK ARCH IN A TOMB AT THEBES.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>On the road from the Memnonium to the valley of the Hassaseef, a
little elevated on a rock, is a very small painted tomb, which is
also vaulted. The <a href="#i29">vignette</a> represents the arch
of the roof resting on the rock, and the inner arch of a recess at
the end. This recess, as likewise the whole tomb, is covered with a
coating of plaster; and on one of the jambs of the recess are the
titles and prænomen of Thothmes III., “Sun, Establisher of the
World,” fifth<span class="pagenum" id="Page_353">[353]</span> king
of the eighteenth dynasty, who reigned about fifteen centuries
before the Christian era. The present access to this tomb is
through a hole in the ceiling, from the floor of another tomb. This
fracture discovers satisfactorily the construction of the arch. The
sections, therefore, of the pointed arch at Gibel el Birkel (see
<a href="#pl28">Plate XXVIII.</a>), of the circular one at the site
of the metropolis of<span class="pagenum" id=
"Page_354">[354]</span> Ethiopia (see <a href="#pl07">Plate
VII.</a>), and this elliptical and circular arch at Thebes, will, I
think, satisfy the most sceptical, that the Romans were not the
first who were acquainted with the power and principle of the arch.
We have here, undoubtedly, the geometrical forms; and in answer to
the <em>cui bono</em> of the learned author of the able article in
the last Quarterly Review<a id="FNanchor_92"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_92" class="fnanchor">[92]</a>, I must state that the
Ethiopian arches were obviously invented to resist the rains; as
the peasants of Sennaar have conical roofs to their cottages for
the same purpose. The brick arches at Thebes, I conceive to have
been erected not merely as ornaments, but, as regards the one of
the time of Amunoph III., for the purpose of protecting it from the
partial decomposition of the calcareous rock, which happens to be
there less solid, while the tomb of the time of Thothmes III.,
being immediately beneath another, suggested the utility, if not
necessity, of strengthening the roof with an arch.</p>

<div class="figcenter iw17">
<figure id="i29"><a href="images/i29.jpg"><img src='images/i29.jpg'
alt=''></a>
<p class="cpf">BRICK ARCH IN A TOMB AT THEBES.</p>
</figure>
</div>

<p>The Ethiopian sculpture has the same defects as the Egyptian, as
to the manner of representing the profile of the face, but the
bodies have a roundness which distinguishes them entirely from the
Egyptian. The latter is more graceful and pleasing to the eye, when
the traveller is accustomed to that peculiarity of style, but I do
conceive the Ethiopian to be, in some respects, more true to
nature.</p>

<p>It may be asked why, advanced as the Ethiopians were in the
arts, they did not draw the human figure better, and more in
accordance with nature. It is difficult, and, I must confess,
almost impossible, to explain quite satisfactorily this
circumstance. The Egyptians, as I have said, had a style still more
unnatural, yet few can doubt their high degree of civilisation. The
general form of the figures gives one the idea of their being very
early efforts of art. It seems to me very possible, that the
invention of the sculptor and painter may have been first exercised
on the walls of some celebrated temple; and this defective
representation may,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_355">[355]</span>
from the sacredness of the place, have become the conventional
style of the country. The bigotted veneration which the people
would naturally feel for those forms under which their divinities
were first represented, may have made them consider it lawful,
indeed, to improve the delineation, but criminal to attempt to
change it entirely.</p>

<p>The Egyptians and the Ethiopians were equally ignorant of
perspective. When Egypt was under the dominion of the Greeks and
Romans, we perceive that policy and respect for the prejudices of
the people prevented those nations from making any innovations in
the national style. The differences between the sculpture, at those
periods, and during the eighteenth dynasty, cannot be called so
much changes, as marks of the great decline of the pure Egyptian
art. No figures, on the walls of the temples, are sculptured or
painted in the pure Greek or Roman style. Those rulers of Egypt,
though of course acquainted with the latter, continued to follow
the Egyptian style in all the edifices that they erected. The only
instances in which they seem to have deviated at all from this
rule, are in some few portraits found on Greek mummies. This
renders it probable that there existed a strong religious prejudice
on the subject, and that the Ethiopians and Egyptians were as
tenacious of the forms and costumes of their divinities, as
religious sects, in more recent times, have shown themselves about
the dress and appearance of their ministers.</p>

<p>There is, therefore, no reason to suppose, that the Ethiopians
were unable to draw figures correctly, because, from reverence to
the antiquity of their religion, and the superstition of the
people, they did not improve the forms of their divinities. Faulty,
however, as that style is, both in design and colour, it has still
its attractions, though, in saying so, I may be accused of being an
admirer of deformity. Their formality is not inappropriate to
sacred edifices. Travellers daily become reconciled to its defects,
and at last admire what at first appeared to them so
strange.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_356">[356]</span> No one can
have visited the Tombs of the Kings at Thebes, without an
enthusiastic admiration of the beautiful and rich harmony of the
colouring, the taste displayed in the ornaments, the spirited
execution of the animals and hieroglyphics, and the magical effect
of the decorations. We see, in the fragments which still exist,
that the Ethiopians drew animals, and also ornaments, very
beautifully. We may therefore consider it almost certain, that they
could have drawn the human figure better had they been
permitted.</p>

<p>There are few traces of colour remaining on any Ethiopian
edifice, yet I found sufficient in one of the porticoes of the
pyramids of Gibel el Birkel, to enable me to ascertain the
important fact, that the colouring was similar to the Egyptian.
That of the human body is of the same red tint; and is it not
singular that man is represented of the same complexion in Ethiopia
as in every part of Egypt? Such a coincidence could only arise from
the circumstance of the one people having derived their knowledge
of the arts from the other. The colouring of the Ethiopians and
Egyptians was of course, like the form of the figure, conventional.
Now, I ask the reader, Where is it most probable that this colour
was first established? Was it in a country where the inhabitants
must have been nearly of that dark tint represented in these
sculptures, or was it in one, 1700 miles farther north, where the
people must have been, as they are now, yellow, or, comparatively
speaking, white. The first colonies which introduced the arts into
Egypt would naturally represent their divinities under the same
appearance as in the mother country, and the first kings, and other
persons making offerings, would of course be the colonists.
Impressed with reverence for the first models presented to them,
the Egyptians would continue to use this colour, tacitly
acknowledging, by this circumstance, that they derived the
knowledge of the arts from Ethiopia. There are several
representations in Egypt of black men and black queens, but these
almost invariably<span class="pagenum" id="Page_357">[357]</span>
bear the negro features. Even if they were intended to represent
Ethiopians, that colour could only be a mark of distinction,
afterwards introduced, as of a blacker nation than themselves; for
we find the Ethiopians, on their own edifices, represented as
exactly of the same tint as the Egyptians of Thebes and
Memphis.</p>

<p>If the artist were to paint them of one of the six colours with
which they were acquainted,—white, red, green, blue, yellow, or
black, the one approaching nearest to what was probably the real
Ethiopian complexion, would certainly be the red. We shall be
confirmed in this conclusion, if we consider the latitude and the
colour of the present cultivators of the soil. Though they speak
the Arabic language, they are most probably (and the tradition I
heard at Dongolah confirms the supposition) descended from the race
of the true Ethiopians, obliged, by force, to adopt the language
and religion of their conquerors. That people, from their climate,
could not have been white, and, had they been black, they would
have so represented themselves. The Copts, the descendants of the
Egyptians, are fairer than the Fellaheen, yet the latter look white
in Ethiopia, contrasted with the present inhabitants of that
country. It must also be considered that the Arab conquerors, being
from the southern part of their country, and therefore darkened by
the climate and the desert life they led, would, to a certain
extent, give a darker tint to the Ethiopians; nevertheless, I have
given views of some Berbers whose complexions are decidedly lighter
than they are represented on the walls. (See <a href="#pl16">Plate
XVI.</a>) We must recollect also that it has ever been a custom of
the Orientals to represent themselves and their mistresses as
beautifully fair. The present Ethiopians esteem nothing more than a
light complexion. Before they were accustomed to Europeans, they
looked with horror on what they considered their unnatural
whiteness; but if an Ethiopian is celebrating in a song the charms
of his mistress, he dwells with the greatest rapture on her fair
skin. The petty kings seek wives of equal rank with
themselves,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_358">[358]</span> chiefly
on account of their fair complexion, which the daughters of the
meleks acquire by being generally confined to the house;
particularly as all mixture with the negro blood is carefully
shunned. The colour most approaching to nature, if this
conventional one had originated in Egypt, would certainly have been
the white, or rather light yellow. Such must have been the colour
of the Egyptians; and we cannot suppose that they would pay
themselves so bad a compliment as to represent their complexion so
many shades darker than it must really have been. Here then we have
another great proof that civilisation and art descended the river.
I have mentioned, in my topographical description, the passages of
Diodorus which state shortly, but explicitly, that the Ethiopians
stated the Egyptians to have derived all their knowledge from them.
The inquiries of that intelligent traveller penetrated through the
veil which the pride of the Egyptians, jealous, and anxious to
magnify their antiquity, had thrown over the origin of their
institutions; and when to this national propensity we add the
obstinate wars, which would naturally eradicate every attachment to
their parent land, and induce them to conceal their obligations to
Ethiopia, it appears surprising how that intelligent traveller
should have been able to ascertain the fact, that civilisation
descended from Meroe. Diodorus had no object in inventing that
account; and if the Ethiopians gave it to him in Egypt, he had
there the means of ascertaining the truth from the priests and
other learned men, who, no doubt, were acquainted with the fact;
and would have contradicted it if he had not believed it. Herodotus
apparently heard a similar account. He visited Egypt during the
time of the Persian dynasty, while Diodorus was in that country
little more than half a century (sixty years) before Christ, when
the philosophy of the Greeks may have penetrated through the pride
and false pretensions of the Egyptian priests. Herodotus states
that the Egyptians believed themselves to be<span class="pagenum"
id="Page_359">[359]</span> from where the race of man first existed
(ἐξ οὗ ἄνθρωπον γένος ἐγένετο). He mentions that the Thebaid was
Egypt before the formation of the Delta<a id=
"FNanchor_93"></a><a href="#Footnote_93" class="fnanchor">[93]</a>:
the increase of population forced them to spread themselves down
the valleys, emigrating from the Thebaid to the Delta, in the same
way, no doubt, as they originally emigrated from Meroe. There is
one question connected with this subject, which, I must confess, is
an important one; namely, by what language the hieroglyphics of
both countries are to be interpreted. Is it by a common one, as
emanating from the same origin, or by a different one in the two
countries? I shall not now commit myself by a discussion and hasty
opinion on a subject which I hope to be better able to treat, as I
extend my acquaintance with hieroglyphics, and with the Coptic and
the Ethiopian languages. It seems to me, however, that if the
Egyptians derived their knowledge of hieroglyphics from Ethiopia,
they would, of course, receive from the same source the language by
which they were explained.</p>

<p>With regard to the early literature and science of the
Ethiopians, we know them only by the monuments; but we may rest
satisfied, that they could not have been neglected in a country
where, as Diodorus says, the language of hieroglyphics was
generally understood. The existence of these on the walls of the
porticoes of the pyramids, is a proof that some at least were
acquainted with them. It is a very remarkable circumstance, which,
even at the hazard of repetition, I must impress upon the reader,
that notwithstanding the little sculpture and the few monuments
that remain, there is sufficient to corroborate the very words of
Diodorus. The reader who has examined my drawings will agree with
him, that the Ethiopians buried their dead with as much pomp as the
Egyptians; the processions were the same; and although there is
some little difference in the style of the sculpture and
hieroglyphics,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_360">[360]</span> it
certainly is my conviction, that the Egyptian style had, as he very
correctly expresses himself, its origin in Ethiopia.<a id=
"FNanchor_94"></a><a href="#Footnote_94" class=
"fnanchor">[94]</a></p>

<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_361">[361]</span>History affords
no example, at least that I know, of a people being so advanced in
the fine arts, without at the same time having applied themselves
to the cultivation of the sciences, of history and philosophy.
Their religion, as I may show on another occasion, evinces their
acquaintance with metaphysics, not being a gross mythology, but the
worship, under different forms, of the one great Divinity, whose
attributes are manifested in the wonders of the creation. A people
who had evidently so much taste for the arts, must have been
sensible to the charms of study. Those who had the means would
naturally wish to distinguish themselves, or at least their
children, by various literary acquirements. Individuals seeking to
elevate themselves above the common level would rise together, and
what was at first an extraordinary attainment would become
necessary to secure admittance into society.</p>

<p>The remarks which I have hitherto made on the arts of Ethiopia
are chiefly applicable to their earliest period. In my narrative I
have mentioned, that there are still the remains and traces of 80
pyramids at Meroe, 42 at Nouri, and 17 at Gibel el Birkel. In the
few which are now nearly entire, the porticoes are decorated with
figures sculptured in the round and bulky Ethiopian style. It is
impossible now to determine positively whether these are
representations of private individuals, of kings, or of members of
different royal families. They represent in several instances, two
persons,—a king and his wife, and there is one instance of a queen
only. The tombs which we can ascertain, from the hieroglyphics, to
be those of kings and queens, being not of superior, or even equal
magnitude with many of the others, I think it not unreasonable to
conclude, that every one of them was erected<span class="pagenum"
id="Page_362">[362]</span> for a sovereign or some members of a
royal family. If they were each of a king or queen who had reigned
alone, the immense number which can even now be traced, independent
of the many which the desert has swallowed up, would carry us back
to an earlier era than can be admitted, for it is evident, from the
style of the sculpture, and other appearances of the monuments,
that they were erected long previous to the time of Tirhaka, (730
years B.C.)</p>

<p>That Ethiopian king, who reigned over Egypt, constructed a
magnificent temple at Gibel el Birkel, which city, if not the place
of his birth, and at one time the seat of his empire, was at all
events peculiarly favoured by him; for we do not see his name on
any Ethiopian edifice, except on an altar in the great temple, and
on the walls and columns of the temple of Athor at Birkel.</p>

<p>Part of the temple of Tirhaka is excavated out of the rock,
either in imitation of those he had seen in Egypt, or it may
perhaps be a more ancient temple, added to and decorated by that
king. The style of sculpture at that time was tolerably good, very
like the Egyptian, but by no means equal to the best at Thebes. The
architecture, however, seems to have then very much declined. The
columns of Athor and the deformed Pthah in the temple built by
Tirhaka, are very inferior to the fragment we have at Abou Naga,
and the great temple at Gibel el Birkel, built, perhaps, by
Pionchei, probably a much more ancient king. That edifice, for
magnificence, may be compared to any in the valley of the Nile. I
may here also remark, that, notwithstanding the great pecuniary
resources which Tirhaka must have possessed, as king of two such
rich and powerful countries as Egypt and Ethiopia, still the temple
erected by him is not to be compared to the splendid edifice of his
predecessor.</p>

<p>It is singular, that, with the exception of the remains of this
large temple, and some other less important vestiges of smaller
edifices there, the colossal statues of Argo, the Ethiopian temple
of Amarah, the fragment of an Ethiopian ruin at Naga, on
the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_363">[363]</span> Nile, and the
Ethiopian temples at Mecaurat or Naga, in the desert (see
Cailliaud), there are no remains of any sacred edifice of an
earlier period than Tirhaka, or indeed of a later, except the ruins
at Wady el Owataib. The sepulchres of the kings only are standing.
The temples which remain in the best state of preservation above
the second cataract are those of Semneh, built by Thothmes III., an
Egyptian king, and the magnificent temple of Solib, built by
Amunoph III., also an Egyptian monarch. Petronius, in his hatred
for every thing that was Ethiopian, probably destroyed all the
edifices which had escaped from the ravages of previous wars.</p>

<p>If Gibel el Birkel was Napata (as it is considered by many), the
temples might have been destroyed by Petronius, but I have before
stated, that I cannot conceive it to be that town. We must
therefore attribute its destruction to an earlier era, or to the
Christians or Arabs. The great temple of Gibel el Birkel must have
required great labour to demolish it so utterly. The immense and
massive columns and thick walls would have lasted for ages, had
they not been destroyed by violence. As no attempts have apparently
been made to restore these edifices, the place was perhaps
deserted, and the name erased from among the list of cities. My
drawings, plans, &amp;c. of the temples of Semneh, Solib, and the
small temple at Gibel el Birkel, will show that they are
exceedingly ruined, yet not with the same dreadful destruction as
the large temple at the latter place, and others, of which scarcely
a vestige remains.</p>

<p>Some of the pyramids of Gibel el Birkel and Meroe bear evidence
of the greatest violence having been employed to destroy them,
whereas others seem injured only by time. The demolition of the
former, may, I conceive, be entirely attributed to the avarice of
the Mahometans. The very nature of the construction of the pyramids
would certainly present greater difficulties in destroying them,
but this could not have been the motive in forbearing<span class=
"pagenum" id="Page_364">[364]</span> from the attempt; for all
events it would have been easy for the levellers of whole rows of
immense and lofty columns to demolish entirely every portico. That
respect for the sepulchres of the dead, which has existed in every
age, among civilised and uncivilised nations, prevented probably
the devastators from violating the pyramids of Meroe and Nouri,
whilst, at both those places, every trace of the temples has been
obliterated. Religious bigotry must have been the cause of this
violence. The invaders, while they respected the habitations of the
dead, the sepulchres of ancient kings, might consider the
destruction of the sanctuaries to be the surest mode of eradicating
every trace of the idolatrous worship of Ammon.</p>

<p>The monuments of Ethiopia present unfortunately no regular
series of edifices by which we might trace the progressive rise and
subsequent decline of the arts. There is as wide a difference
between the most ancient sculpture and architecture of Meroe and
that of the time of Tirhaka, as between the latter and the far more
modern edifice, the ruins of which are now called Wady el Owataib.
In my description of the latter, (see narrative, <a href=
"#c08">Chapter VIII.</a>) I have stated my belief that it was
erected during the last stage of the arts. The confused and
extremely defective plan, and the wretched style of the sculpture,
are proofs that it must have been built very long after the reign
of Tirhaka. I have mentioned also that, from the design, and from a
certain affectation of Greek ornaments, particularly in the fluting
of the columns, I conceive it not improbable, that this, and also,
perhaps, the Greek edifice at Mecaurat, were erected by the
Ethiopian king Ergamenes, who had a Greek education, and was
contemporary with Ptolemy Philadelphus.</p>

<p>It will be remarked, that there is a vast difference between
these monuments in Ethiopia, and the magnificent architectural
edifices erected at that period in Egypt; but we must recollect,
that the dynasty of the Ptolemies infused fresh vigour into every
pursuit connected with the prosperity of the country. The first
kings of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_365">[365]</span> that
dynasty occupied themselves almost exclusively in promoting the
commerce and encouraging the literature and arts of the country.
The sculpture indeed was then very inferior to the pure Egyptian;
but their temples, notwithstanding this inferiority, may rank among
the most splendid edifices which ornament the banks of the Nile, or
even any part of the world. But Meroe did not enjoy the same
advantage. The extended commerce of her rival would of course
diminish more and more her own prosperity. Her territory declining
continually in richness and affluence, and her commerce impaired,
her kings, instead of occupying themselves in encouraging the arts,
would require all the resources of the state to save them from
becoming the prey of their more powerful neighbour.</p>

<p>The next and only additional edifice which I have now to notice,
as marking the last epoch in the history of the arts of Meroe, is
the Christian church opposite Gibel el Birkel. As we have no
certain ground to suppose that Christianity was much spread in
Ethiopia before the year 330<a id="FNanchor_95"></a><a href=
"#Footnote_95" class="fnanchor">[95]</a>, a later date cannot be
assigned to that structure. I conceive it to be one of the earliest
Christian edifices erected in that country, as I have remarked, in
my description of it, that it is ornamented with the Ethiopian
cornice and beading. This is the most modern architectural
construction that now remains in Ethiopia.</p>

<p>The Arabs at their invasion do not seem to have brought with
them the talent and means to erect any of those splendid mosques
which they have reared in honour of their prophet in other climes.
I have elsewhere described the dwellings of the present
inhabitants. They are miserable mud and straw huts, some of the
latter having conical roofs, a remnant of the knowledge of the
arch. The fortified castles of the chiefs are superior to these,
but necessity only has taught them to build towers and thick walls
for their protection: nothing can be more barbarous and rude than
their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_366">[366]</span> internal
structure. For the man who has made himself independent, or is
ignorant, of the luxuries, elegancies, and comforts of life, they
are perhaps sufficient, since they afford shelter against the
summer heat, the occasional showers of rain, and the winter cold;
but it is impossible to have a more striking evidence of the
effects of civilisation, than the contrast between the wretched
abodes of the present inhabitants of Ethiopia, and the magnificent
sepulchres of her departed kings.</p>

<p>Some writers even of ability affect to doubt the civilisation
and great power of the Ethiopians and Egyptians, particularly the
latter. They reason on the present condition of the country,
without reflecting on the great changes it has undergone. I may
add, that they display little knowledge of Egyptian subjects, and
even of the history of the arts in general. They would otherwise be
aware of the time necessary for a nation to acquire the degree of
taste, knowledge, and affluence, necessary for the construction of
such edifices as those still existing in the valley of the Nile.
Setting aside altogether the authority of historians, let us only
compare the present inhabitants, who are almost destitute of any
ideas or information, incapable even of rearing for themselves a
suitable abode, with a nation whose architectural proficiency has
never been surpassed, and whose advancement in so many branches of
science and civilisation is established by the indisputable
evidence of lapidary inscriptions. It were vain to expect to find
at the present day in this part of Ethiopia, an individual capable
of constructing such edifices as we have seen existing at Meroe. I
do not hesitate to say, that were it possible to transport one of
the pyramids of Meroe entire to London, it would be considered one
of the most chaste and beautiful ornaments of our metropolis.
Though constructed more perhaps than three thousand years ago, it
might, even now, be studied with advantage by our artists and
architects.</p>

<p>When such observations are applied to Egypt, the answer
is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_367">[367]</span> still more
easily made. Where in Europe is there an edifice like the great
temple at Karnak, one hall of which contains 140 columns, 36 feet
in circumference, dimensions rarely to be found in Europe, and
every portion of that splendid court covered with carefully
finished and painted sculptures? Having, however, trespassed so
long on the reader’s patience, I must not now allow myself to enter
on the subject of Egyptian art. I will only say, in conclusion,
that the materials used in the pyramids of Memphis are sufficient
to construct a city, and that no palaces of Europe are comparable
in splendour to the Tombs of the Kings at Thebes.</p>

<p class="center med space-above2">THE END.</p>

<div class="page">
<p class="center tiny space-above"><span class=
"sc">London</span>:<br>
Printed by A. <span class="sc">Spottiswoode</span>.<br>
New-Street-Square.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnotes">
<h2>FOOTNOTES:</h2>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1"><span class=
"label">[1]</span></a>I possess numerous notes and drawings of the
antiquities in the lower valley of the Nile, selections from which
I had some intention of publishing, as intimated several times in
my journal. But I doubt much now if I shall enter on a field in
which there are already so many competitors. Signor Rosellini’s
magnificent work is already well known to the literary world. That
of Champollion will, I believe, soon appear. Mr. Wilkinson’s
invaluable work, “Thebes, and General View of Egypt,” with his most
accurate map of that interesting city, are already before the
public. The same author has promised us an account of the private
life of the Egyptians; and such a subject could not be in more
learned hands. I trust the result of Mr. Burton’s residence of
above twelve years in that country will soon appear. Mr. Hay’s
portfolio is the most magnificent which has ever been brought from
that country. It comprises plans, sections, and detailed drawings,
by eminent architects; also delineations of sculpture from the
tombs and temples, by himself and able artists, whom he employed;
with a complete series of picturesque views, entirely by his own
pencil. Mr. Lane, Dr. Hogg, and others, are on the eve of
publishing. In mentioning the interesting works which I hope will
soon appear, I cannot refrain from expressing my regret, that the
valuable labours and researches of the above English travellers in
that classic soil have not been combined for the formation of a
great national work,—an imperishable monument of public utility and
individual enterprise.</p>

<p>I refer the reader, with great pleasure, to the fifth volume of
the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society, in which there is a
very interesting description of the peninsula of Sennaar,
communicated by Sir John Barrow, from the memoranda of Lord
Prudhoe. Had it been published before this volume was completed, I
should have availed myself of the information which it contains;
but I am glad to find that in many respects it confirms my
statement.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2"><span class=
"label">[2]</span></a>Lord Prudhoe and Major Felix are the only
Englishmen who have seen the antiquities of the island of Meroe;
and it is deeply to be regretted that they have not published their
observations.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3"><span class=
"label">[3]</span></a>In a work on Egypt, for which I have ample
notes, and 400 drawings to select from, I may give a more detailed
description of these places.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4"><span class=
"label">[4]</span></a>The temples I mention in this volume, below
the second cataract, I may perhaps describe at a future
opportunity.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5"><span class=
"label">[5]</span></a>It somewhat resembled, also, what Festus says
of the Salian dancers: the præsaltor advanced “et amptruabat,” then
all the rest came “et redamptruabant,” or danced and sang as he had
done.—<span class="sc">Sir Wm. Gell</span>, T. R. vol. ii. p.
385.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6"><span class=
"label">[6]</span></a>Part I. Canto II.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7"><span class=
"label">[7]</span></a>The reader will have observed that my
estimate of the pace of the camel differs from those of many
travellers, and particularly from that of Mr. Burnes, the author of
the justly celebrated work “Travels into Bokhara” (see vol. ii. p.
149.); but he must recollect that my camels were of the Bishareen
race. My servants were all mounted; and the animals, even at
starting, were not heavily laden with a stock of water, which
diminished daily. There being only one well containing water, and
that bad, in a distance of 250 miles, it was their interest to urge
on their camels, which they did by singing in the manner I have
described. I took great pains to ascertain the pace of these
animals, observing not only theirs, but also that of the drivers
walking by their side, dismounting repeatedly myself for that
purpose. I had the gratification to find, on arriving at the Nile,
that my calculations agreed, within two or three miles, with the
observations of latitude. I have made many long journeys on camels,
and I certainly think that animal, when well taken care of, and not
overloaded, fully capable of marching ten or eleven hours per day,
at the average rate of two miles and a half an hour in valleys or
over rough roads, and three miles on plains, without being <em>at
all</em> distressed. On the banks of rivers, and in districts where
water and forage are plentiful, except urged on, the men are always
inclined to move more slowly, and make a shorter day’s journey, not
so much to save their camels as to lessen the fatigue to
themselves: a few days more or less <em>en route</em> being
generally a matter of indifference to them.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8"><span class=
"label">[8]</span></a>Burckhardt calls them angareyg, and says the
peculiar smell of the leather some of them are made of keeps them
free from vermin. I conceive it to be rather the excessive heat of
the climate that preserves the inhabitants of these latitudes from
the plagues of Egypt.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9"><span class=
"label">[9]</span></a>These flies also annoy the cattle; but
neither here nor on the Mugrum (the Astaboras) have they the effect
described by Bruce.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10"><span class=
"label">[10]</span></a>The specimens which I brought to England
have confirmed the accuracy of the description of them in
Cailliaud’s work—“Cette coquille, bien reconnue aujourd-hui comme
devant appartenir au genre éthérie, est remarquable par son talon,
qui souvent semble s’accroître et présenter nombre de compartimens.
J’avais conservé de ces valves d’éthéries qui avaient jusqu’à huit
ou dix poules de longueur: la forme en est alongée et variée, la
nacre blanche et feuilletée. Les deux attaches musculaires semblent
être le seul motif qui jusqu’à present a fait placer ces éthéries
avec les cames plutôt qu’avec les huîtres, dont elles ont du reste
tout le caractère.”—Vol. ii. p. 222.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11"><span class=
"label">[11]</span></a>“Who hath sent out the wild ass free? or who
hath loosed the bands of the wild ass? Whose house I have made the
wilderness, and the barren land his dwellings. He scorneth the
multitude of the city, neither regardeth he the crying of the
driver. The range of the mountains is his pasture, and he searcheth
after every green thing.”</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12"><span class=
"label">[12]</span></a>Pliny.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13"><span class=
"label">[13]</span></a>Lib. ii. c. 29.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14"><span class=
"label">[14]</span></a>See the Chapters on the <a href=
"#c21">Commerce</a> and <a href="#c22">Arts</a> of Meroe.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15"><span class=
"label">[15]</span></a>See <a href="#c19">Historical Appendix,</a>
and <a href="#c11">Account of the Ruins</a> of Gebel el Berkel, for
further remarks on the arch.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16"><span class=
"label">[16]</span></a>The first Egyptian edifice recorded is the
pyramid built by Venephes, at Cochon; according to Eusebius from
Manetho, the fourth king of the first dynasty. Africanus calls the
town Cochomen. That valuable remark shows the great antiquity of
this description of tomb.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17"><span class=
"label">[17]</span></a>Virg. Georg. iv. 291.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18"><span class=
"label">[18]</span></a>In the <a href="#c22">Appendix</a> on the
arts of Meroe I have mentioned many other reasons for this
opinion.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19"><span class=
"label">[19]</span></a>Assour, on the north side, I did not
see.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20"><span class=
"label">[20]</span></a>The Sheakhs and Meleks generally profess to
be very religious, and observant of the laws of the Koran; but when
they want another wife, and have already four, they divorce one of
their old ones.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21"><span class=
"label">[21]</span></a>They have some few wells, but generally send
for water from the river.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22"><span class=
"label">[22]</span></a>Agatharchides of Gnidos (Diod. lib. i.), and
others in the time of the Ptolemies, seem to have divined the
cause; and Homer (vide Odyssey, book iv. ver. 581.), when he
describes the Nile as descending from heaven, apparently alludes to
the rain in Ethiopia; but at the time of Herodotus it is certain
that the Egyptians were not acquainted with the true cause; and
Moses, in describing the promised land (Deut. ch. xi. ver. 10.),
“not as the land of Egypt, but as a land of hills and valleys,
which drinketh water of the rain of heaven,” that is, owed its
fertility to the rain that fell from the clouds, would not have
used those expressions, had he been exhorting a people aware that
the rain in Ethiopia was the cause of the rising of the Nile; the
source of the productiveness of the two countries being the same,
although in the one more immediate, and therefore more
apparent.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23"><span class=
"label">[23]</span></a>As a boat would sail, following all the
windings of the river and the islands, the distance from Shendy to
Rosetta can scarcely be less than 1800 miles.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24"><span class=
"label">[24]</span></a>In crossing this desert, to save anxiety, I
gave each person his own provision of water to take care of,
warning him, if that fell short, it was his own fault. This plan
succeeded, each individual taking such care of his skins that none
of them ran out.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25"><span class=
"label">[25]</span></a>In calling it not very ancient, I, of
course, mean, in comparison to some of the edifices in Ethiopia and
Egypt. Tirhaka began to reign in the latter country about 700 years
A.C.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26"><span class=
"label">[26]</span></a>See Plates <a href="#pl53">LIII.</a> and
<a href="#pl54">LIV.</a></p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27"><span class=
"label">[27]</span></a>The generality of the pyramids face a little
to the south of south-east. I regret to state, that, from an error
of the engraver’s, which I did not discover until all the copies
were printed off, their direction is not correctly marked in the
<a href="#pl24">General Plan;</a> but, as their position is
accurately shown in the above <a href="#i10">vignette,</a> I have
considered it unnecessary to incur the expense of having the plate
reprinted.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28"><span class=
"label">[28]</span></a>I have not considered it necessary to
publish a separate drawing which I made of this group.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29"><span class=
"label">[29]</span></a>The Ethiopians are represented by Herodotus
(vii. 69.) as carrying bows not less than four cubits in
length.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30"><span class=
"label">[30]</span></a>The arch at North Der is formed by
approaching stones.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31"><span class=
"label">[31]</span></a>I shall make some further remarks on this
important subject in my <a href="#c22">Appendix</a> on the arts of
Meroe.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32"><span class=
"label">[32]</span></a>Lib. xvi. p. 770.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33"><span class=
"label">[33]</span></a>The okre consists of 2¾ rotles, or pounds of
12 ounces; and 150 rotles, or pounds, make a cantar.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34"><span class=
"label">[34]</span></a>This Plate contains also an Ababde of the
Desert, in the short drawers they sometimes wear.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35"><span class=
"label">[35]</span></a>The bearings of the course of the river, and
numerous other villages and islands, whose names I obtained, are
marked in the <a href="#map">map.</a></p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36"><span class=
"label">[36]</span></a>About fifteen miles from the second
cataract.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37"><span class=
"label">[37]</span></a>The rotle consists of 12 ounces.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38"><span class=
"label">[38]</span></a>He fell ill in Kordofan, but did not die
until he arrived at Wady Modeen, on the Bahr el Azruk, where I
believe he is buried.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39"><span class=
"label">[39]</span></a>As regards the title of “melek,” this is the
name given in Hebrew to the different chiefs: but it is invariably
translated, in our version, “kings.”</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40"><span class=
"label">[40]</span></a>I have heard a song that describes this
battle. The Arabs adopt very generally this method of preserving
the recollection of any important event. There is a curious one
about the Deftar Dar Bey, when he avenged the death of Ismael Pasha
on the Shendyans. He is represented as coming as swift as the
ostrich; “burning the fakeers,” and “killing the sheakhs.”</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41"><span class=
"label">[41]</span></a>The Ababde girl, in relating this tale, sang
this part very sweetly, and several who were standing by joined in
the chorus.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42"><span class=
"label">[42]</span></a>The Ababde girl sang this.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43"><span class=
"label">[43]</span></a>This man gave me the description of the
customs, &amp;c., which I have given, having found them to agree
with other accounts. When I asked him whether I could be of any
service to him in Cairo, he begged, as a favour, that I would send
him a blank book, as he was anxious to make a copy of the
Koran.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_44"></a><a href="#FNanchor_44"><span class=
"label">[44]</span></a>“Le 17 Avril nous eûmes occasion de voir à
Beit el Fakih un exemple du sangfroid et de la fermeté des Arabes.
Le feu prit à une maison à l’extrémité méridionale, et, comme le
vent soufflait du sud avec violence, en peu de tems la plus grande
partie de la ville fut dévorée par les flammes: cependant les
habitants restaient tranquilles: on n’entendait dans les rues ni
cris, ni lamentations; et quand on plaignait leur sort, ils
répliquaient, C’est la volonté de Dieu. Nous occupions une maison
de pierre dans un quartier que les flammes épargnèrent: montés sur
notre toit nous vîmes les toits des autres maisons, remplis de
spectateurs, qui regardaient tranquillement l’incendie. Un savant
pauvre, qui nous rendait souvent des visites, vint à nous voir
après avoir mis en sûreté ses effets, et nous indiqua d’un air
indifférent le moment où sa maison s’embrasa.”</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_45"></a><a href="#FNanchor_45"><span class=
"label">[45]</span></a>The title which all travellers, who remain
any time in Egypt, generally take, is that of Effende. There are
two great advantages in assuming a Turkish name:—it affords greater
facility to the natives in recollecting it, and it likewise
prevents your being called Howwajee, merchant, or, rather, pedler;
and as that class of persons are, in this country, rarely
respectable, either from their morals or station, an Englishman
submitting to such a title, of course, lowers himself, both in the
eyes of the Turks and natives. The Arabs, among themselves, often
have other names for Europeans. I was called Abou Toweel, Father of
the tall. Rosellini had a name in reference to his beard (Abou
Dagan); Champollion (Abou Galeed), from his corpulency; and a noble
traveller, who has surpassed us all in the extent of his journey up
the Nile, was called, I am told, Abou Dagegah, or Father of the
Minutes, from the report having spread that he had a dollar every
minute. The Turks and Arabs of these provinces, where travellers
are more rare, sometimes honour me with the title of Bey Zadé, or,
Son of a Governor.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_46"></a><a href="#FNanchor_46"><span class=
"label">[46]</span></a>My servant having broken my thermometer at
Gibel el Birkel, I have, unfortunately, been unable to ascertain
the heat here: I can only remark, that the temperature for these
last three months has increased perceptibly every week. Some
travellers have stated that the extreme heat in Nubia is in April.
Such an observation, if not entirely an error, can only be
applicable to that part where heavy tropical rains fall. On the
11th of March (see <a href="#Page_97">p. 97.</a>) we had 110° in
the shade; but although that was the commencement of the extreme
heat, and for that reason more difficult to support, I did not
experience so great an inconvenience from it as at present. The
natives did not then complain as they do now, nor did my servants
from Cairo and Thebes suffer so much. They were all ill at El
Ourde, and I thought my Greek servant Ibrahim would have died.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_47"></a><a href="#FNanchor_47"><span class=
"label">[47]</span></a>Mr. Waddington’s Travels in Ethiopia contain
a view and plan of this temple, and also some views of Gibel el
Birkel. I have avoided, as much as possible, the disagreeable task
of swelling my text with criticisms on the observations and plates
of Monsieur Cailliaud. It would, however, be unjust and ungenerous
to make any observation on the views of Mr. Waddington, as he
states candidly that he was no draughtsman; yet, as no other views
had been published, he was, of course, justified in giving such as
he possessed.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_48"></a><a href="#FNanchor_48"><span class=
"label">[48]</span></a>The names of these two kings occurring
together at Semneh, where Thothmes is represented worshipping his
ancestor Osirtisen as a god, is confirmatory of the accuracy of the
supposition that these are the names in the tomb at Doshe.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_49"></a><a href="#FNanchor_49"><span class=
"label">[49]</span></a>See Bruce’s account of the reverence and
adoration of the Agous at the source of the Nile.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_50"></a><a href="#FNanchor_50"><span class=
"label">[50]</span></a>Inscription No. 1. is from the same portico,
and opposite to a large figure, similar to the one in <a href=
"#pl10">Plate X.,</a> Sculpture, Meroe. No. 2. is before a figure
presenting offerings. No. 4. before a figure of Anubis. No. 5.
before a figure of Horus. The tablet, No. 3. is in the same
portico, over a figure kneeling before a funeral boat, very much
defaced, at the end of the portico. As will be seen by the <a href=
"#pl54">plate,</a> these inscriptions are very much injured; but,
although the least perfect of any that I possess, I publish them,
because they are the most important, being from the pyramids of
Meroe. No. 6. is an inscription which was above the sculpture on
one side of the first chamber excavated out of the rock of the
Temple of Tirhaka, Gibel el Birkel. No 7. is another portion of
this apparently dedicatory inscription, going round the whole of
the room. The hieroglyphics are large, well executed, and very
legible, except some which were quite defaced, and others almost
covered with dirt. No. 8. are fragments from the large granite
altar in the western corner of the great Temple, Gibel el Birkel.
The first line is on the south-east side, the second on the
north-east; the remainder of the hieroglyphics on this altar I have
not been able to publish. <a href="#pl53">Plate LIII.</a> shows the
two subjects on the altar in the sanctuary of the same temple. (See
<a href="#pl24">Plate XXIV.</a>) I have alluded to them in my
description of the ruins.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_51"></a><a href="#FNanchor_51"><span class=
"label">[51]</span></a>His name is also found in the tomb near
Solib, and on the rocks at Toumbos.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_52"></a><a href="#FNanchor_52"><span class=
"label">[52]</span></a>Since I wrote the above, I have seen the two
beautiful granite lions which were brought from Gibel el Birkel,
and presented to the British Museum, by Lord Prudhoe. The sculpture
is most beautiful. They appear to be of the same period, as their
attitude is similar; otherwise, their forms are different. The one
which is the most defaced, and has been apparently the most
symmetrical, bears the name of Amunoph III., in deep intaglio. As
the name of this king does not exist on any edifice at Gibel el
Birkel, I think the circumstance of the lion bearing his name being
found there, no decisive proof of his having penetrated so far
south. The sculpture is too good to be Ethiopian, and the granite
is not of a description I met with near there. Gibel el Birkel,
whatever might be its ancient name, was evidently the capital and
favoured city of Tirhaka, who might, on his abdication of the
throne of Egypt, have brought away these splendid specimens of
Egyptian art. The nomen and prænomen on the other are not Egyptian,
but seem to be of a king called Amnasre, or Amun Asre.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_53"></a><a href="#FNanchor_53"><span class=
"label">[53]</span></a>Lib. ii. cap. 110.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_54"></a><a href="#FNanchor_54"><span class=
"label">[54]</span></a>Odys. Δ′. 184.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_55"></a><a href="#FNanchor_55"><span class=
"label">[55]</span></a>Odys. Λ′. 522.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_56"></a><a href="#FNanchor_56"><span class=
"label">[56]</span></a>Pausanias correctly states the vocal statue
of Memnon at Thebes was by the natives called Phamenoph (that is,
Amunoph III.), the name it actually bears; and it certainly is
curious, that this is the very king whose name we find in Ethiopia
at Solib, and on the lion, as I have stated, brought from Gibel el
Birkel. That king may possibly have been master of a portion of
Ethiopia, and styled himself, as was often the custom, king of the
Upper and Lower Countries; but he could not have been the Ethiopian
Memnon, who marched to the succour of Troy: for the king who
reigned in Egypt at the time of the Trojan war was Osirei, or
Menephtah II.; and Amunoph III. died more than a century and a half
before that event. As no edifices remain bearing the name of this
king south of Solib, which is not a hundred miles above the second
cataract, I see no just reason, as I have said before, for
supposing that he carried his arms to Gibel el Birkel, much less to
Meroe.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_57"></a><a href="#FNanchor_57"><span class=
"label">[57]</span></a>2 Chronicles, xii. 2, 3.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_58"></a><a href="#FNanchor_58"><span class=
"label">[58]</span></a>2 Chronicles, xvi. 8.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_59"></a><a href="#FNanchor_59"><span class=
"label">[59]</span></a>2 Chronicles, chap. xiv. l. 8-11.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_60"></a><a href="#FNanchor_60"><span class=
"label">[60]</span></a>2 Chronicles, xiv. 12, 13.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_61"></a><a href="#FNanchor_61"><span class=
"label">[61]</span></a>Lib. ii. 137.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_62"></a><a href="#FNanchor_62"><span class=
"label">[62]</span></a>Lib. ii. 139.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_63"></a><a href="#FNanchor_63"><span class=
"label">[63]</span></a>Major Felix’s account of the Egyptian
dynasties was the first that showed us the great utility of the
lapidary inscriptions. Although brief, it is so admirably arranged,
the information it contains so valuable, and, notwithstanding the
recent progress in the study of hieroglyphics, generally so
correct, that it is very much to be regretted that the papers he
lithographed at Cairo have not been more widely circulated by a
reprint in England.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_64"></a><a href="#FNanchor_64"><span class=
"label">[64]</span></a>2 Kings, chap. xviii.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_65"></a><a href="#FNanchor_65"><span class=
"label">[65]</span></a>Rosellini, i Monumenti dell’ Egitto e della
Nubia, lib. ii. chap. 7.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_66"></a><a href="#FNanchor_66"><span class=
"label">[66]</span></a>Isaiah, xxxvii. 36-38.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_67"></a><a href="#FNanchor_67"><span class=
"label">[67]</span></a>Lib. ii. 137.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_68"></a><a href="#FNanchor_68"><span class=
"label">[68]</span></a>Page 1007.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_69"></a><a href="#FNanchor_69"><span class=
"label">[69]</span></a>
</p>

<div class="box-float float-left">
<div class="figfloat">
<figure class="iw23" id="i_p304"><a href=
"images/i_p304.jpg"><img src='images/i_p304.jpg' alt=
'[Hieroglyphs]'></a>
</figure>
</div>
</div>

<p>Meroe. (See <a href="#pl10">Plate X.</a>) There is a fragment of
a figure of a god, with the hieroglyphics before it; this is
evidently the god Sebek, which, with the Greek termination, makes
the Sevechus of Eusebius; but, although the name in the list and
that of Eusebius and Africanus are made thus to agree with the name
in the Bible, I have some doubts if Signor Rosellini is correct in
the connection he supposes between the name of these hieroglyphics
and the god Sevek; for the Ethiopians apparently wrote the name of
that deity in the same manner as the Egyptians, and yet not one of
the hieroglyphics used in writing the name of the god is employed
in that of the king.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote clear">
<p><a id="Footnote_70"></a><a href="#FNanchor_70"><span class=
"label">[70]</span></a>Herodotus, lib. ii. 30. Diodorus states the
number to have been more than 200,000; and assigns as the reason of
their emigration, that in the expedition into Syria the post of
honour was given to foreigners.—Lib. iii. vol. i. p. 175.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_71"></a><a href="#FNanchor_71"><span class=
"label">[71]</span></a>Herodotus, lib. iii. 17. 20.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_72"></a><a href="#FNanchor_72"><span class=
"label">[72]</span></a>Heliodorus, in his history of Ethiopia, or,
rather, novel of Theagenes and Cariclia, relates the war of
Hydaspes, king of the East and West Ethiopians, with the Egyptians,
or rather the Persians, then in possession of Egypt, for the island
of Philæ and the emerald mines. He gives also an account of the
siege of Syene; and mentions the prisoners being bound with chains
of gold, so that one of them, Theagenes, the hero of the tale,
laughed, and said, that he was more richly decorated in prison than
out.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_73"></a><a href="#FNanchor_73"><span class=
"label">[73]</span></a><span class="gothic">Heeren’s Afrikanische
Völker</span>, vol. i. ch. 3.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_74"></a><a href="#FNanchor_74"><span class=
"label">[74]</span></a>Lib. iii. 102.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_75"></a><a href="#FNanchor_75"><span class=
"label">[75]</span></a>The following description, extracted from
the journal of my first voyage up the Nile, may amuse the
reader:—</p>

<p>“April 8. 1832.—Our pilot afforded us a curious exhibition,
although not, I believe, uncommon; but to us it was new. He
pretended or believed that his saint, to whom he had been
addressing his evening devotions, had entered his body, and he
immediately fell into the most violent paroxysms, throwing his arms
about, rolling his head, and twisting his body in a very outrageous
manner: sometimes he held up his hands, and shook, as in the most
dreadful convulsions, groaning most piteously, and gabbling forth
all sorts of gibberish. The sailors made a circle round him, and
continued making low obeisances, calling on Mahomet to assist him,
for nearly two hours; they believe that, unless they did this, the
saint would never leave him, and he would have probably died. The
man, in his madness, seemed to have a great jealousy for his
honour; one of the mariners was sleeping on board the boat, while
the others were on the banks praying for them; on a sudden he
darted into the boat, and, had he not been detained, would have
roughly used the drowsy mariner. After all the Mahometans near him
had joined the circle to pray for his recovery, he returned, by
degrees, to his senses: when the fit was over, he lay for some time
apparently quite exhausted. The man is remarkable at other times
for the mildness of his manner, and is one of the finest looking
Nubians I have seen, being above six feet high, with uncommonly
handsome features. The people consider those who are thus possessed
as peculiarly favoured, not one in a thousand being so fortunate.
After death they are generally considered as saints, and have tombs
erected to them by the government, which does this, no doubt, to
gain popularity, or conciliate the people: but it is generally
believed that the saint has appeared to the Pasha, ordering him to
erect it.”</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_76"></a><a href="#FNanchor_76"><span class=
"label">[76]</span></a>Lib. xvii. p. 820.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_77"></a><a href="#FNanchor_77"><span class=
"label">[77]</span></a>Lib. vi. chap. 29.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_78"></a><a href="#FNanchor_78"><span class=
"label">[78]</span></a>See Letronne’s note on Strabo, l. xvii. vol.
v. p. 435.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_79"></a><a href="#FNanchor_79"><span class=
"label">[79]</span></a>See Acts, chap. vi. vii. 33.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_80"></a><a href="#FNanchor_80"><span class=
"label">[80]</span></a>Lib. iii. c. 2.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_81"></a><a href="#FNanchor_81"><span class=
"label">[81]</span></a>Except Rameses II., who certainly penetrated
as far as Gibel el Birkel; but there is no other Egyptian name on
any rocks or edifices south of Solib and Toumbos.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_82"></a><a href="#FNanchor_82"><span class=
"label">[82]</span></a>Herodotus (Thalia, 114.) describes Ethiopia
as the last of the inhabited regions of the earth, and possessed by
men of very great stature, beautiful, and of very long life;
adding, that it produces much gold, and very large elephants, with
long teeth, wild trees of every description, and ebony.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_83"></a><a href="#FNanchor_83"><span class=
"label">[83]</span></a>Diodorus (lib. iii. p. 105.) says, that near
the confines of Egypt and the adjacent Ethiopia and Arabia, there
is a place which abounds in rich gold mines, whence, at a great
expense and toil of a great multitude of criminals, gold is dug. He
speaks also of the manner they pounded the gold; and also mentions
veins of white marble. It is a singular coincidence, that at the
mines in the great Nubian desert, there are actually remaining
mortars exactly such as he describes; and, with one exception, the
only place I found white marble during this journey was in that
desert, not far from the mines. The marble, however, may perhaps be
the white quartz the gold is found in.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_84"></a><a href="#FNanchor_84"><span class=
"label">[84]</span></a>On the road to Abou Hashim, in the kingdom
of Berber, and other places, I found rocks of sandstone, much
charged with iron, and beyond Sennaar, they say that there are iron
mines.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_85"></a><a href="#FNanchor_85"><span class=
"label">[85]</span></a>I regret that in some few of the impressions
the caps were printed black. The reader must be aware, that the
management of such engravings as these is excessively difficult.
Four colours are impressed from separate stones—red, blue, black,
and the ground. The others were put in by hand. I took great pains
in superintending the mixing of the colours, to give the reader as
exact a representation of an Egyptian painting as was in my power.
I am indebted to Mr. Bonomi for having drawn for me on the stones
these and the other plates of sculpture.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_86"></a><a href="#FNanchor_86"><span class=
"label">[86]</span></a>The past and present condition of Ethiopia
are so admirably described in the first two verses, chap. xviii. of
Isaiah, and the prophecy so admirably fulfilled, that I cannot
refrain from repeating them:—“Woe to the land shadowing with wings,
which is beyond the rivers of Ethiopia: that sendeth ambassadors by
the sea, even in vessels of bulrushes upon the waters, saying, Go,
ye swift messengers, to a nation scattered and peeled, to a people
terrible from their beginning hitherto; a nation meted out and
trodden down, whose land the rivers have spoiled!” Can the
expression “shadowing with wings” allude to the winged globe on all
the edifices in Egypt and Ethiopia? Vessels of bulrushes are highly
characteristic of a wild tribe in the interior, almost similar ones
being used at the present day; but the “nation, terrible from the
beginning, meted out and trodden down, whose land the rivers have
spoiled,” can only be Ethiopia.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_87"></a><a href="#FNanchor_87"><span class=
"label">[87]</span></a>Strabo mentions that Coptos was the
entrepôt, not only of the merchandise of Ethiopia, but also of
India and Arabia.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_88"></a><a href="#FNanchor_88"><span class=
"label">[88]</span></a>Isaiah (xlv. 14.) also mentions the
“merchandise of Ethiopia.”</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_89"></a><a href="#FNanchor_89"><span class=
"label">[89]</span></a>Euterpe, 110.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_90"></a><a href="#FNanchor_90"><span class=
"label">[90]</span></a>Plin. lib. vi. cap. xxix.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_91"></a><a href="#FNanchor_91"><span class=
"label">[91]</span></a>Destruction of the library at
Alexandria.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_92"></a><a href="#FNanchor_92"><span class=
"label">[92]</span></a>No. CVI. p. 350.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_93"></a><a href="#FNanchor_93"><span class=
"label">[93]</span></a>Euterpe, xv.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_94"></a><a href="#FNanchor_94"><span class=
"label">[94]</span></a>This is no new doctrine of my own:
Champollion, Rosellini, Heeren, and many other first-rate
authorities have the same idea. I had expressed no opinion on the
subject before going into the country; and, therefore, without
prejudice, examined the evidence afforded by the monuments. At the
same time that I deeply regret, that many learned travellers and
geographers differ with me on this important point, I have not
feared to express my own opinion; and I trust it will be candidly
allowed, that in my topographical description I have not omitted
any observation that might militate against my argument. I have
stated, that in the latitude of Shendy it occasionally rains, (but
Cailliaud is mistaken in supposing that it rains there three months
in the year,) and that such rain would have a certain effect even
on the solid mass of a pyramid. I have mentioned, also, that the
stones are smaller, and often of a softer material, than the
sandstone of Egypt; but we must consider that the pyramids are also
smaller, that they have no rooms in the interior, and that the
material of the least durable is harder than that of many of the
pyramids of Memphis. Mr. Waddington did not reach the wonderful
cemetery of the metropolis of Meroe, but the result of his
comparison of the other pyramids of Ethiopia with those of Egypt
agrees with mine, that is to say, as regards their relative
antiquity; but from the discoveries in hieroglyphics, Mr. W. is
found to be wrong in the dates he assigns to the monuments of
Memphis and Thebes. But I cannot conclude this subject better than
with an extract from his work.</p>

<p>He says (Journal of a Visit to some Parts of Ethiopia, p. 184),
“Now, the utter destruction and shapelessness of many of the
pyramids at Birkel and El Bellal (Nouri), attest their antiquity;
while those of Egypt do not appear to have been erected above
eleven or twelve hundred years before Christ, when that country had
been frequently overrun by the Ethiopians;”—alluding to the
statement of Herodotus, that eighteen of the kings of Egypt were
Ethiopians; but Manethon and the monuments do not confirm this
account, and, therefore, I have not mentioned it before. “The
pyramids are of a later date than the ruins of Thebes. Thebes,
which is known to have been founded by a colony of Ethiopians<a id=
"FNanchor_a"></a><a href="#Footnote_a" class="fnanchor">[a]</a>,
was called Ammon No, Diospolis, or the city of Ammon. It follows,
then, I think, very clearly, from the concurrence of these
observations on the antiquities of Ethiopia, with the conclusions
derived from historical evidence, that the origin of the Egyptian
divinities, as well as that of their temples and their tombs, and
of the sculptures, figures, and symbols, may be traced to Ethiopia.
In the magnitude of their edifices, the imitators have, indeed,
surpassed their masters; but, as far as we could judge from the
granite and other sculptures at Argo and Gibel el Birkel, that art
seems to have been as well understood, and carried to as high
perfection, as it was afterwards by their scholars at Thebes and at
Memphis.</p>
</div>

<div class="subft">
<p><a id="Footnote_a"></a><a href="#FNanchor_a"><span class=
"label">[a]</span></a>Bruce’s Travels, vol. i. p. 380. The words of
Bruce are,—“We know that Thebes was a colony of Ethiopians, and
probably from Meroe; but whether directly or not we are not
certain.” There is, I believe, no passage distinctly stating this;
but Bruce very correctly inferred it from the statements of
Diodorus and Herodotus.</p>
</div>

<div class="footnote">
<p><a id="Footnote_95"></a><a href="#FNanchor_95"><span class=
"label">[95]</span></a>Ludolf, lib. iii. chap. 2.</p>
</div>
</div>

<div class="transnote">
<h2>Transcriber's note:</h2>

<ul>
<li>Changes in the <a href="#errata">ERRATA</a> have been made,
with some differences:</li>

<li class="pad1 no-bullet">"Ababdis" to: "Ababdes" — Also changed
in: pg <a href="#Page_15">15.</a></li>

<li class="pad1 no-bullet">"Melik" to: "Melek" — Not found in any
of the pages listed, but changed instead in: <a href="#pl02">Pl.
2,</a> <a href="#pl03">Pl. 3,</a> pg <a href="#Page_51">51</a>
(x2), pg <a href="#Page_52">52</a> (plur.), pg <a href=
"#Page_58">58</a> (plur.).</li>

<li class="pad1 no-bullet">"Psammeticus" to: "Psammitichus" — Also
changed in: pg <a href="#Page_75">75,</a> pg <a href=
"#Page_213">213.</a></li>

<li class="space-above15">pg <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a> Changed:
Calliaud to: Cailliaud</li>

<li>pg <a href="#Page_9">9</a> Changed: Philœ to: Philæ</li>

<li>pg <a href="#Page_23">23</a> Changed: to the <span class=
"word-spaced03">&nbsp;</span>ast of it to: east</li>

<li>pg <a href="#Page_75">75</a> Changed: equal to the the best to:
to the best</li>

<li>pg <a href="#Page_146">146</a> footnote <a href=
"#Footnote_26">26</a> Changed: See Plates LII. and LIII. to: LIII.
and LIV.</li>

<li>pg <a href="#Page_185">185</a> Changed: I conceived he
<span class="word-spaced03">&nbsp;</span>ight be to: might</li>

<li>pg <a href="#Page_189">189</a> Changed: of these reamls to:
realms</li>

<li>pg <a href="#Page_193">193</a> Changed: The two views (Plates
XXXVII. and XXXVIII.) to: Plates XXXVI. and XXXVII.</li>

<li>pg <a href="#Page_204">204</a> Changed: <em>April</em> 13. to:
<em>April</em> 17.</li>

<li>pg <a href="#Page_210">210</a> footnote <a href=
"#Footnote_44">44</a> Changed: et novs indiqua to: nous</li>

<li>pg <a href="#Page_240">240</a> Changed: Plate LI. is a drawing
of the Osshi to: Plate LII.</li>

<li>pg <a href="#Page_270">270</a> Changed: sculpture (see Plate
XLI.) to: Plate LI.</li>

<li>pg <a href="#Page_286">286</a> footnote <a href=
"#Footnote_50">50</a> Changed: very much defaced. to: very much
defaced,</li>

<li>pg <a href="#Page_298">298</a> Changed: <span class=
"copt">ⲦⲙⲁⲩϢⲛⲓⲡⲟϥⲣⲉ</span> to: <span class=
"copt">ⲦⲙⲁⲩϢⲛⲓⲛⲟϥⲣⲉ</span></li>

<li>pg <a href="#Page_310">310</a> Changed: Nazr è Deen to: Nazr e’
Deen</li>

<li>pg <a href="#Page_311">311</a> footnote <a href=
"#Footnote_72">72</a> Changed: Philœ to: Philæ</li>

<li>pg <a href="#Page_315">315</a> (x2) Changed: Philœ to:
Philæ</li>

<li>pg <a href="#Page_316">316</a> Changed: Philœ to: Philæ</li>

<li>pg <a href="#Page_316">316</a> footnote <a href=
"#Footnote_76">76</a> Changed: Liv. to: Lib.</li>

<li>pg <a href="#Page_326">326</a> Changed: road to Abon Hashim to:
Abou</li>

<li>pg <a href="#Page_327">327</a> Added: ” after: elephants’
teeth.</li>

<li>pg <a href="#Page_360">360</a> Changed: but Calliaud is to:
Cailliaud</li>

<li>pg <a href="#Page_363">363</a> Changed: see Calliaud to:
Cailliaud</li>

<li>Other spelling and formatting inconsistencies have been left
unchanged.</li>

<li>New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to
the public domain.</li>
</ul>
</div>
</div>
<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 74151 ***</div>
</body>
</html>
generated by cgit v1.2.3 (git 2.25.1) at 2026-05-25 18:41:15 +0000