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</PRE>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><br>
<br>
<h1>
A SHEPHERD'S LIFE
</h1>
<h2>
IMPRESSIONS OF THE SOUTH WILTSHIRE DOWNS
</h2>
<center>
<b>BY W. H. HUDSON</b>
</center>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<h2>
NOTE
</h2>
<p>
I an obliged to Messrs. Longmans, Green, & Co. for
permission to make use of an article entitled "A Shepherd of
the Downs," which appeared in the October and November
numbers of <i>Longmans' Magazine</i> in 1902. With the
exception of that article, portions of which I have
incorporated in different chapters, the whole of the matter
contained in this work now appears for the first time.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<h2>
CONTENTS
</h2>
<p>
Chapter.
</p>
<p>
I. <a href=
"#ch01">SALISBURY PLAIN</a>
</p>
<p>
II. <a href="#ch02">SALISBURY
AS I SEE IT</a>
</p>
<p>
III. <a href="#ch03">WINTERBOURNE
BISHOP</a>
</p>
<p>
IV. <a href="#ch04">A SHEPHERD
OF THE DOWNS</a>
</p>
<p>
V. <a href="#ch05">EARLY
MEMORIES</a>
</p>
<p>
VI. <a href="#ch06">SHEPHERD
ISAAC BAWCOMBE</a>
</p>
<p>
VII. <a href="#ch07">THE
DEER-STEALERS</a>
</p>
<p>
VIII. <a href="#ch08">SHEPHERDS AND
POACHING</a>
</p>
<p>
IX. <a href="#ch09">THE
SHEPHERD ON FOXES</a>
</p>
<p>
X. <a href="#ch10">BIRD
LIFE ON THE DOWNS</a>
</p>
<p>
XI. <a href="#ch11">STARLINGS
AND SHEEP-BELLS</a>
</p>
<p>
XII. <a href="#ch12">THE SHEPHERD
AND THE BIBLE</a>
</p>
<p>
XIII. <a href="#ch13">VALE OF THE
WYLYE</a>
</p>
<p>
XIV. <a href="#ch14">A SHEEP-DOG'S
LIFE</a>
</p>
<p>
XV. <a href="#ch15">THE
ELLERBYS OF DOVETON</a>
</p>
<p>
XVI. <a href="#ch16">OLD WILTSHIRE
DAYS</a>
</p>
<p>
XVII. <a href="#ch17">OLD WILTSHIRE DAYS
(<i>continued</i>)</a>
</p>
<p>
XVIII. <a href="#ch18">THE SHEPHERD'S RETURN</a>
</p>
<p>
XIX. <a href="#ch19">THE DARK PEOPLE
OF THE VILLAGE</a>
</p>
<p>
XX. <a href="#ch20">SOME
SHEEP-DOGS</a>
</p>
<p>
XXI. <a href="#ch21">THE SHEPHERD AS
NATURALIST</a>
</p>
<p>
XXII. <a href="#ch22">THE MASTER OF THE
VILLAGE</a>
</p>
<p>
XXIII. <a href="#ch23">ISAAC'S CHILDREN</a>
</p>
<p>
XXIV. <a href="#ch24">LIVING IN THE
PAST</a>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<h1>
A SHEPHERD'S LIFE
</h1><a name="ch01"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER I
</h2>
<h3>
SALISBURY PLAIN
</h3>
<blockquote>
Introductory remarks—Wiltshire little favoured by
tourists—Aspect of the downs—Bad
weather—Desolate aspect—The
bird-scarer—Fascination of the downs—The larger
Salisbury Plain—Effect of the military
occupation—A century's changes—Birds—Old
Wiltshire sheep—Sheep-horns in a well—Changes
wrought by cultivation—Rabbit-warrens on the
downs—Barrows obliterated by the plough and by rabbits
</blockquote>
<p>
Wiltshire looks large on the map of England, a great green
county, yet it never appears to be a favourite one to those
who go on rambles in the land. At all events I am unable to
bring to mind an instance of a lover of Wiltshire who was not
a native or a resident, or had not been to Marlborough and
loved the country on account of early associations. Nor can I
regard myself as an exception, since, owing to a certain kind
of adaptiveness in me, a sense of being at home wherever
grass grows, I am in a way a native too. Again, listen to any
half-dozen of your friends discussing the places they have
visited, or intend visiting, comparing notes about the
counties, towns, churches, castles, scenery—all that
draws them and satisfies their nature, and the chances are
that they will not even mention Wiltshire. They all know it
"in a way"; they have seen Salisbury Cathedral and
Stonehenge, which everybody must go to look at once in his
life; and they have also viewed the country from the windows
of a railroad carriage as they passed through on their flight
to Bath and to Wales with its mountains, and to the west
country, which many of us love best of all—Somerset,
Devon, and Cornwall. For there is nothing striking in
Wiltshire, at all events to those who love nature first; nor
mountains, nor sea, nor anything to compare with the places
they are hastening to, west or north. The downs! Yes, the
downs are there, full in sight of your window, in their
flowing forms resembling vast, pale green waves, wave beyond
wave, "in fluctuation fixed"; a fine country to walk on in
fine weather for all those who regard the mere exercise of
walking as sufficient pleasure. But to those who wish for
something more, these downs may be neglected, since, if downs
are wanted, there is the higher, nobler Sussex range within
an hour of London. There are others on whom the naked aspect
of the downs has a repelling effect. Like Gilpin they love
not an undecorated earth; and false and ridiculous as
Gilpin's taste may seem to me and to all those who love the
chalk, which "spoils everything" as Gilpin said, he certainly
expresses a feeling common to those who are unaccustomed to
the emptiness and silence of these great spaces.
</p>
<p>
As to walking on the downs, one remembers that the fine days
are not so many, even in the season when they are looked
for—they have certainly been few during this wet and
discomfortable one of 1909. It is indeed only on the chalk
hills that I ever feel disposed to quarrel with this English
climate, for all weathers are good to those who love the open
air, and have their special attractions. What a pleasure it
is to be out in rough weather in October when the equinoctial
gales are on, "the wind Euroclydon," to listen to its roaring
in the bending trees, to watch the dead leaves flying, the
pestilence-stricken multitudes, yellow and black and red,
whirled away in flight on flight before the volleying blast,
and to hear and see and feel the tempests of rain, the big
silver-grey drops that smite you like hail! And what pleasure
too, in the still grey November weather, the time of suspense
and melancholy before winter, a strange quietude, like a
sense of apprehension in nature! And so on through the
revolving year, in all places in all weathers, there is
pleasure in the open air, except on these chalk hills because
of their bleak nakedness. There the wind and driving rain are
not for but against you, and may overcome you with misery.
One feels their loneliness, monotony, and desolation on many
days, sometimes even when it is not wet, and I here recall an
amusing encounter with a bird-scarer during one of these
dreary spells.
</p>
<p>
It was in March, bitterly cold, with an east wind which had
been blowing many days, and overhead the sky was of a hard,
steely grey. I was cycling along the valley of the Ebble, and
finally leaving it pushed up a long steep slope and set off
over the high plain by a dusty road with the wind hard
against me. A more desolate scene than the one before me it
would be hard to imagine, for the land was all ploughed and
stretched away before me, an endless succession of vast grey
fields, divided by wire fences. On all that space there was
but one living thing in sight, a human form, a boy, far away
on the left side, standing in the middle of a big field with
something which looked like a gun in his hand. Immediately
after I saw him he, too, appeared to have caught sight of me,
for turning he set off running as fast as he could over the
ploughed ground towards the road, as if intending to speak to
me. The distance he would have to run was about a quarter of
a mile and I doubted that he would be there in time to catch
me, but he ran fast and the wind was against me, and he
arrived at the road just as I got to that point. There by the
side of the fence he stood, panting from his race, his
handsome face glowing with colour, a boy about twelve or
thirteen, with a fine strong figure, remarkably well dressed
for a bird-scarer. For that was what he was, and he carried a
queer, heavy-looking old gun. I got off my wheel and waited
for him to speak, but he was silent, and continued regarding
me with the smiling countenance of one well pleased with
himself. "Well?" I said, but there was no answer; he only
kept on smiling.
</p>
<p>
"What did you want?" I demanded impatiently.
</p>
<p>
"I didn't want anything."
</p>
<p>
"But you started running here as fast as you could the moment
you caught sight of me."
</p>
<p>
"Yes, I did."
</p>
<p>
"Well, what did you do it for—what was your object in
running here?"
</p>
<p>
"Just to see you pass," he answered.
</p>
<p>
It was a little ridiculous and vexed me at first, but by and
by when I left him, after some more conversation, I felt
rather pleased; for it was a new and somewhat flattering
experience to have any person run a long distance over a
ploughed field, burdened with a heavy gun, "just to see me
pass."
</p>
<p>
But it was not strange in the circumstances; his hours in
that grey, windy desolation must have seemed like days, and
it was a break in the monotony, a little joyful excitement in
getting to the road in time to see a passer-by more closely,
and for a few moments gave him a sense of human
companionship. I began even to feel a little sorry for him,
alone there in his high, dreary world, but presently thought
he was better off and better employed than most of his
fellows poring over miserable books in school, and I wished
we had a more rational system of education for the
agricultural districts, one which would not keep the children
shut up in a room during all the best hours of the day, when
to be out of doors, seeing, hearing, and doing, would fit
them so much better for the life-work before them. Squeers'
method was a wiser one. We think less of it than of the
delightful caricature, which makes Squeers "a joy for ever,"
as Mr. Lang has said of Pecksniff. But Dickens was a
Londoner, and incapable of looking at this or any other
question from any other than the Londoner's standpoint. Can
you have a better system for the children of all England than
this one which will turn out the most perfect draper's
assistant in Oxford Street, or, to go higher, the most
efficient Mr. Guppy in a solicitor's office? It is true that
we have Nature's unconscious intelligence against us; that by
and by, when at the age of fourteen the boy is finally
released, she will set to work to undo the wrong by
discharging from his mind its accumulations of useless
knowledge as soon as he begins the work of life. But what a
waste of time and energy and money! One can only hope that
the slow intellect of the country will wake to this question
some day, that the countryman will say to the townsman, Go on
making your laws and systems of education for your own
children, who will live as you do indoors; while I shall
devise a different one for mine, one which will give them
hard muscles and teach them to raise the mutton and pork and
cultivate the potatoes and cabbages on which we all feed.
</p>
<p>
To return to the downs. Their very emptiness and desolation,
which frightens the stranger from them, only serves to make
them more fascinating to those who are intimate with and have
learned to love them. That dreary aspect brings to mind the
other one, when, on waking with the early sunlight in the
room, you look out on a blue sky, cloudless or with white
clouds. It may be fancy, or the effect of contrast, but it
has always seemed to me that just as the air is purer and
fresher on these chalk heights than on the earth below, and
as the water is of a more crystal purity, and the sky perhaps
bluer, so do all colours and all sounds have a purity and
vividness and intensity beyond that of other places. I see it
in the yellows of hawkweed, rock-rose, and
birds'-foot-trefoil, in the innumerable specks of brilliant
colour—blue and white and rose—of milk-wort and
squinancy-wort, and in the large flowers of the dwarf
thistle, glowing purple in its green setting; and I hear it
in every bird-sound, in the trivial songs of yellow-hammer
and corn-bunting, and of dunnock and wren and whitethroat.
</p>
<p>
The pleasure of walking on the downs is not, however, a
subject which concerns me now; it is one I have written about
in a former work, "Nature in Downland," descriptive of the
South Downs. The theme of the present work is the life, human
and other, of the South Wiltshire Downs, or of Salisbury
Plain. It is the part of Wiltshire which has most attracted
me. Most persons would say that the Marlborough Downs are
greater, more like the great Sussex range as it appears from
the Weald: but chance brought me farther south, and the
character and life of the village people when I came to know
them made this appear the best place to be in.
</p>
<p>
The Plain itself is not a precisely denned area, and may be
made to include as much or little as will suit the writer's
purpose. If you want a continuous plain, with no dividing
valley cutting through it, you must place it between the Avon
and Wylye Rivers, a distance about fifteen miles broad and as
many long, with the village of Tilshead in its centure; or,
if you don't mind the valleys, you can say it extends from
Downton and Tollard Royal south of Salisbury to the Pewsey
vale in the north, and from the Hampshire border on the east
side to Dorset and Somerset on the west, about twenty-five to
thirty miles each way. My own range is over this larger
Salisbury Plain, which includes the River Ebble, or Ebele,
with its numerous interesting villages, from Odstock and
Combe Bisset, near Salisbury and "the Chalks," to pretty
Alvediston near the Dorset line, and all those in the Nadder
valley, and westward to White Sheet Hill above Mere. You can
picture this high chalk country as an open hand, the left
hand, with Salisbury in the hollow of the palm, placed
nearest the wrist, and the five valleys which cut through it
as the five spread fingers, from the Bourne (the little
finger) succeeded by Avon, Wylye, and Nadder, to the Ebble,
which comes in lower down as the thumb and has its junction
with the main stream below Salisbury.
</p>
<p>
A very large portion of this high country is now in a
transitional state, that was once a sheep-walk and is now a
training ground for the army. Where the sheep are taken away
the turf loses the smooth, elastic character which makes it
better to walk on than the most perfect lawn. The sheep fed
closely, and everything that grew on the down—grasses,
clovers, and numerous small creeping herbs—had acquired
the habit of growing and flowering close to the ground, every
species and each individual plant striving, with the
unconscious intelligence that is in all growing things, to
hide its leaves and pushing sprays under the others, to
escape the nibbling teeth by keeping closer to the surface.
There are grasses and some herbs, the plantain among them,
which keep down very close but must throw up a tall stem to
flower and seed. Look at the plantain when its flowering time
comes; each particular plant growing with its leaves so close
down on the surface as to be safe from the busy, searching
mouths, then all at once throwing up tall, straight stems to
flower and ripen its seeds quickly. Watch a flock at this
time, and you will see a sheep walking about, rapidly
plucking the flowering spikes, cutting them from the stalk
with a sharp snap, taking them off at the rate of a dozen or
so in twenty seconds. But the sheep cannot be all over the
downs at the same time, and the time is short, myriads of
plants throwing up their stems at once, so that many escape,
and it has besides a deep perennial root so that the plant
keeps its own life though it may be unable to sow any seeds
for many seasons. So with other species which must send up a
tall flower stem; and by and by, the flowering over and the
seeds ripened or lost, the dead, scattered stems remain like
long hairs growing out of a close fur. The turf remains
unchanged; but take the sheep away and it is like the removal
of a pressure, or a danger: the plant recovers liberty and
confidence and casts off the old habit; it springs and
presses up to get the better of its fellows—to get all
the dew and rain and sunshine that it can—and the
result is a rough surface.
</p>
<p>
Another effect of the military occupation is the destruction
of the wild life of the Plain, but that is a matter I have
written about in my last book, "Afoot in England," in a
chapter on Stonehenge, and need not dwell on here. To the
lover of Salisbury Plain as it was, the sight of military
camps, with white tents or zinc houses, and of bodies of men
in khaki marching and drilling, and the sound of guns, now
informs him that he is in a district which has lost its
attraction, where nature has been dispossessed.
</p>
<p>
Meanwhile, there is a corresponding change going on in the
human life of the district. Let anyone describe it as he
thinks best, as an improvement or a deterioration, it is a
great change nevertheless, which in my case and probably that
of many others is as disagreeable to contemplate as that
which we are beginning to see in the down, which was once a
sheep-walk and is so no longer. On this account I have ceased
to frequent that portion of the Plain where the War Office is
in possession of the land, and to keep to the southern side
in my rambles, out of sight and hearing of the "white-tented
camps" and mimic warfare. Here is Salisbury Plain as it has
been these thousand years past, or ever since sheep were
pastured here more than in any other district in England, and
that may well date even more than ten centuries back.
</p>
<p>
Undoubtedly changes have taken place even here, some very
great, chiefly during the last, or from the late eighteenth
century. Changes both in the land and the animal life, wild
and domestic. Of the losses in wild bird life there will be
something to say in another chapter; they relate chiefly to
the extermination of the finest species, the big bird,
especially the soaring bird, which is now gone out of all
this wide Wiltshire sky. As a naturalist I must also lament
the loss of the old Wiltshire breed of sheep, although so
long gone. Once it was the only breed known in Wilts, and
extended over the entire county; it was a big animal, the
largest of the fine-woolled sheep in England, but for looks
it certainly compared badly with modern downland breeds and
possessed, it was said, all the points which the breeder, or
improver, was against. Thus, its head was big and clumsy,
with a round nose, its legs were long and thick, its belly
without wool, and both sexes were horned. Horns, even in a
ram, are an abomination to the modern sheep-farmer in
Southern England. Finally, it was hard to fatten. On the
other hand it was a sheep which had been from of old on the
bare open downs and was modified to suit the conditions, the
scanty feed, the bleak, bare country, and the long distances
it had to travel to and from the pasture ground. It was a
strong, healthy, intelligent animal, in appearance and
character like the old original breed of sheep on the pampas
of South America, which I knew as a boy, a coarse-woolled
sheep with naked belly, tall and hardy, a greatly modified
variety of the sheep introduced by the Spanish colonist three
centuries ago. At all events the old Wiltshire sheep had its
merits, and when the Southdown breed was introduced during
the late eighteenth century the farmer viewed it with
disfavour; they liked their old native animal, and did not
want to lose it. But it had to go in time, just as in later
times the Southdown had to go when the Hampshire Down took
its place—the breed which is now universal, in South
Wilts at all events.
</p>
<p>
A solitary flock of the pure-bred old Wiltshire sheep existed
in the county as late as 1840, but the breed has now so
entirely disappeared from the country that you find many
shepherds who have never even heard of it. Not many days ago
I met with a curious instance of this ignorance of the past.
I was talking to a shepherd, a fine intelligent fellow,
keenly interested in the subjects of sheep and sheep-dogs, on
the high down above the village of Broad Chalk on the Ebble,
and he told me that his dog was of mixed breed, but on its
mother's side came from a Welsh sheep-dog, that his father
had always had the Welsh dog, once common in Wiltshire, and
he wondered why it had gone out as it was so good an animal.
This led me to say something about the old sheep having gone
out too, and as he had never heard of the old breed I
described the animal to him.
</p>
<p>
What I told him, he said, explained something which had been
a puzzle to him for some years. There was a deep hollow in
the down near the spot where we were standing, and at the
bottom he said there was an old well which had been used in
former times to water the sheep, but masses of earth had
fallen down from the sides, and in that condition it had
remained for no one knew how long—perhaps fifty,
perhaps a hundred years. Some years ago it came into his
master's head to have this old well cleaned out, and this was
done with a good deal of labour, the sides having first been
boarded over to make it safe for the workmen below. At the
bottom of the well a vast store of rams' horns was discovered
and brought out; and it was a mystery to the fanner and the
men how so large a number of sheep's horns had been got
together; for rams are few and do not die often, and here
there were hundreds of horns. He understood it now, for if
all the sheep, ewes as well as rams, were horned in the old
breed, a collection like this might easily have been made.
</p>
<p>
The greatest change of the last hundred years is no doubt
that which the plough has wrought in the aspect of the downs.
There is a certain pleasure to the eye in the wide fields of
golden corn, especially of wheat, in July and August; but a
ploughed down is a down made ugly, and it strikes one as a
mistake, even from a purely economic point of view, that this
old rich turf, the slow product of centuries, should be
ruined for ever as sheep-pasture when so great an extent of
uncultivated land exists elsewhere, especially the heavy
clays of the Midlands, better suited for corn. The effect of
breaking up the turf on the high downs is often disastrous;
the thin soil which was preserved by the close, hard turf is
blown or washed away, and the soil becomes poorer year by
year, in spite of dressing, until it is hardly worth
cultivating. Clover may be grown on it but it continues to
deteriorate; or the tenant or landlord may turn it into a
rabbit-warren, the most fatal policy of all. How hideous they
are—those great stretches of downland, enclosed in big
wire fences and rabbit netting, with little but wiry weeds,
moss, and lichen growing on them, the earth dug up everywhere
by the disorderly little beasts! For a while there is a
profit—"it will serve me my time," the owner
says—but the end is utter barrenness.
</p>
<p>
One must lament, too, the destruction of the ancient
earth-works, especially of the barrows, which is going on all
over the downs, most rapidly where the land is broken up by
the plough. One wonders if the ever-increasing curiosity of
our day with regard to the history of the human race in the
land continues to grow, what our descendants of the next half
of the century, to go no farther, will say of us and our
incredible carelessness in the matter! So small a matter to
us, but one which will, perhaps, be immensely important to
them! It is, perhaps, better for our peace that we do not
know; it would not be pleasant to have our children's and
children's children's contemptuous expressions sounding in
our prophetic ears. Perhaps we have no right to complain of
the obliteration of these memorials of antiquity by the
plough; the living are more than the dead, and in this case
it may be said that we are only following the Artemisian
example in consuming (in our daily bread) minute portions of
the ashes of our old relations, albeit untearfully, with a
cheerful countenance. Still one cannot but experience a shock
on seeing the plough driven through an ancient, smooth turf,
curiously marked with barrows, lynchetts, and other
mysterious mounds and depressions, where sheep have been
pastured for a thousand years, without obscuring these chance
hieroglyphs scored by men on the surface of the hills.
</p>
<p>
It is not, however, only on the cultivated ground that the
destruction is going on; the rabbit, too, is an active agent
in demolishing the barrows and other earth-works. He burrows
into the mound and throws out bushels of chalk and clay,
which is soon washed down by the rains; he tunnels it through
and through and sometimes makes it his village; then one day
the farmer or keeper, who is not an archaeologist, comes
along and puts his ferrets into the holes, and one of them,
after drinking his fill of blood, falls asleep by the side of
his victim, and the keeper sets to work with pick and shovel
to dig him out, and demolishes half the barrow to recover his
vile little beast.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch02"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER II
</h2>
<h3>
SALISBURY AS I SEE IT
</h3>
<blockquote>
The Salisbury of the villager—The cathedral from the
meadows—Walks to Wilton and Old Sarum—The spire
and a rainbow—Charm of Old Sarum—The
devastation—Salisbury from Old Sarum—Leland's
description—Salisbury and the village
mind—Market-day—The infirmary—The
cathedral—The lesson of a child's desire—In the
streets again—An Apollo of the downs
</blockquote>
<p>
To the dwellers on the Plain, Salisbury itself is an
exceedingly important place—the most important in the
world. For if they have seen a greater—London, let us
say—it has left but a confused, a phantasmagoric image
on the mind, an impression of endless thoroughfares and of
innumerable people all apparently in a desperate hurry to do
something, yet doing nothing; a labyrinth of streets and
wilderness of houses, swarming with beings who have no
definite object and no more to do with realities than so many
lunatics, and are unconfined because they are so numerous
that all the asylums in the world could not contain them. But
of Salisbury they have a very clear image: inexpressibly rich
as it is in sights, in wonders, full of people—hundreds
of people in the streets and market-place—they can take
it all in and know its meaning. Every man and woman, of all
classes, in all that concourse, is there for some definite
purpose which they can guess and understand; and the busy
street and market, and red houses and soaring spire, are all
one, and part and parcel too of their own lives in their own
distant little village by the Avon or Wylye, or anywhere on
the Plain. And that soaring spire which, rising so high above
the red town, first catches the eye, the one object which
gives unity and distinction to the whole picture, is not more
distinct in the mind than the entire Salisbury with its
manifold interests and activities.
</p>
<p>
There is nothing in the architecture of England more
beautiful than that same spire. I have seen it many times,
far and near, from all points of view, and am never in or
near the place but I go to some spot where I look at and
enjoy the sight; but I will speak here of the two best points
of view.
</p>
<p>
The nearest, which is the artist's favourite point, is from
the meadows; there, from the waterside, you have the
cathedral not too far away nor too near for a picture,
whether on canvas or in the mind, standing amidst its great
old trees, with nothing but the moist green meadows and the
river between. One evening, during the late summer of this
wettest season, when the rain was beginning to cease, I went
out this way for my stroll, the pleasantest if not the only
"walk" there is in Salisbury. It is true, there are two
others: one to Wilton by its long, shady avenue; the other to
Old Sarum; but these are now motor-roads, and until the
loathed hooting and dusting engines are thrust away into
roads of their own there is little pleasure in them for the
man on foot. The rain ceased, but the sky was still stormy,
with a great blackness beyond the cathedral and still other
black clouds coming up from the west behind me. Then the sun,
near its setting, broke out, sending a flame of orange colour
through the dark masses around it, and at the same time
flinging a magnificent rainbow on that black cloud against
which the immense spire stood wet with rain and flushed with
light, so that it looked like a spire built of a stone
impregnated with silver. Never had Nature so glorified man's
work! It was indeed a marvellous thing to see, an effect so
rare that in all the years I had known Salisbury, and the
many times I had taken that stroll in all weathers, it was my
first experience of such a thing. How lucky, then, was
Constable to have seen it, when he set himself to paint his
famous picture! And how brave he was and even wise to have
attempted such a subject, one which, I am informed by artists
with the brush, only a madman would undertake, however great
a genius he might be. It was impossible, we know, even to a
Constable, but we admire his failure nevertheless, even as we
admire Turner's many failures; but when we go back to Nature
we are only too glad to forget all about the picture.
</p>
<p>
The view from the meadows will not, in the future, I fear,
seem so interesting to me; I shall miss the rainbow, and
shall never see again except in that treasured image the
great spire as Constable saw and tried to paint it. In like
manner, though for a different reason, my future visits to
Old Sarum will no longer give me the same pleasure
experienced on former occasions.
</p>
<p>
Old Sarum stands over the Avon, a mile and a half from
Salisbury; a round chalk hill about 300 feet high, in its
round shape and isolation resembling a stupendous tumulus in
which the giants of antiquity were buried, its steeply
sloping, green sides ringed about with vast, concentric
earth-works and ditches, the work of the "old people," as
they say on the Plain, when referring to the ancient Britons,
but how ancient, whether invading Celts or
Aborigines—the true Britons, who possessed the land
from neolithic times—even the anthropologists, the wise
men of to-day, are unable to tell us. Later, it was a Roman
station, one of the most important, and in after ages a great
Norman castle and cathedral city, until early in the
thirteenth century, when the old church was pulled down and a
new and better one to last for ever was built in the green
plain by many running waters. Church and people gone, the
castle fell into ruin, though some believe it existed down to
the fifteenth century; but from that time onwards the site
has been a place of historical memories and a wilderness.
Nature had made it a sweet and beautiful spot; the earth over
the old buried ruins was covered with an elastic turf,
jewelled with the bright little flowers of the chalk, the
ramparts and ditches being all overgrown with a dense thicket
of thorn, holly, elder, bramble, and ash, tangled up with
ivy, briony, and traveller's-joy. Once only during the last
five or six centuries some slight excavations were made when,
in 1834, as the result of an excessively dry summer, the
lines of the cathedral foundations were discernible on the
surface. But it will no longer be the place it was, the
Society of Antiquaries having received permission from the
Dean and Chapter of Salisbury to work their sweet will on the
site. That ancient, beautiful carcass, which had long made
their mouths water, on which they have now fallen like a pack
of hungry hyenas to tear off the old hide of green turf and
burrow down to open to the light or drag out the deep, stony
framework. The beautiful surrounding thickets, too, must go,
they tell me, since you cannot turn the hill inside out
without destroying the trees and bushes that crown it. What
person who has known it and has often sought that spot for
the sake of its ancient associations, and of the sweet solace
they have found in the solitude, or for the noble view of the
sacred city from its summit, will not deplore this fatal
amiability of the authorities, this weak desire to please
every one and inability to say no to such a proposal!
</p>
<p>
But let me now return to the object which brings me to this
spot; it was not to lament the loss of the beautiful, which
cannot be preserved in our age—even this best one of
all which Salisbury possessed cannot be preserved—but
to look at Salisbury from this point of view. It is not as
from "the meadows" a view of the cathedral only, but of the
whole town, amidst its circle of vast green downs. It has a
beautiful aspect from that point: a red-brick and red-tiled
town, set low on that circumscribed space, whose soft,
brilliant green is in lovely contrast with the paler hue of
the downs beyond, the perennial moist green of its
water-meadows. For many swift, clear currents flow around and
through Salisbury, and doubtless in former days there were
many more channels in the town itself. Leland's description
is worth quoting: "There be many fair streates in the Cite
Saresbyri, and especially the High Streate and Castle
Streate.... Al the Streates in a maner, in New Saresbyri,
hath little streamlettes and arms derivyd out of Avon that
runneth through them. The site of the very town of Saresbyri
and much ground thereabout is playne and low, and as a pan or
receyvor of most part of the waters of Wiltshire."
</p>
<p>
On this scene, this red town with the great spire, set down
among water-meadows, encircled by paler green chalk hills, I
look from the top of the inner and highest rampart or
earth-work; or going a little distance down sit at ease on
the turf to gaze at it by the hour. Nor could a sweeter
resting-place be found, especially at the time of ripe
elder-berries, when the thickets are purple with their
clusters and the starlings come in flocks to feed on them,
and feeding keep up a perpetual, low musical jangle about me.
</p>
<p>
It is not, however, of "New Saresbyri" as seen by the
tourist, with a mind full of history, archaeology, and the
aesthetic delight in cathedrals, that I desire to write, but
of Salisbury as it appears to the dweller on the Plain. For
Salisbury is the capital of the Plain, the head and heart of
all those villages, too many to count, scattered far and wide
over the surrounding country. It is the villager's own
peculiar city, and even as the spot it stands upon is the
"pan or receyvor of most part of the waters of Wiltshire," so
is it the receyvor of all he accomplishes in his laborious
life, and thitherward flow all his thoughts and ambitions.
Perhaps it is not so difficult for me as it would be for most
persons who are not natives to identify myself with him and
see it as he sees it. That greater place we have been in,
that mighty, monstrous London, is ever present to the mind
and is like a mist before the sight when we look at other
places; but for me there is no such mist, no image so immense
and persistent as to cover and obscure all others, and no
such mental habit as that of regarding people as a mere
crowd, a mass, a monstrous organism, in and on which each
individual is but a cell, a scale. This feeling troubles and
confuses my mind when I am in London, where we live "too
thick"; but quitting it I am absolutely free; it has not
entered my soul and coloured me with its colour or shut me
out from those who have never known it, even of the simplest
dwellers on the soil who, to our sophisticated minds, may
seem like beings of another species. This is my
happiness—to feel, in all places, that I am one with
them. To say, for instance, that I am going to Salisbury
to-morrow, and catch the gleam in the children's eye and
watch them, furtively watching me, whisper to one another
that there will be something for them, too, on the morrow. To
set out betimes and overtake the early carriers' carts on the
road, each with its little cargo of packages and women with
baskets and an old man or two, to recognize acquaintances
among those who sit in front, and as I go on overtaking and
passing carriers and the half-gipsy, little "general dealer"
in his dirty, ramshackle, little cart drawn by a rough,
fast-trotting pony, all of us intent on business and
pleasure, bound for Salisbury—the great market and
emporium and place of all delights for all the great Plain. I
remember that on my very last expedition, when I had come
twelve miles in the rain and was standing at a street corner,
wet to the skin, waiting for my carrier, a man in a hurry
said to me, "I say, just keep an eye on my cart for a minute
or two while I run round to see somebody. I've got some fowls
in it, and if you see anyone come poking round just ask them
what they want—you can't trust every one. I'll be back
in a minute." And he was gone, and I was very pleased to
watch his cart and fowls till he came back.
</p>
<p>
Business is business and must be attended to, in fair or foul
weather, but for business with pleasure we prefer it fine on
market-day. The one great and chief pleasure, in which all
participate, is just to be there, to be in the crowd—a
joyful occasion which gives a festive look to every face. The
mere sight of it exhilarates like wine. The numbers—the
people and the animals! The carriers' carts drawn up in rows
on rows—carriers from a hundred little villages on the
Bourne, the Avon, the Wylye, the Nadder, the Ebble, and from
all over the Plain, each bringing its little contingent.
Hundreds and hundreds more coming by train; you see them
pouring down Fisherton Street in a continuous procession, all
hurrying market-wards. And what a lively scene the market
presents now, full of cattle and sheep and pigs and crowds of
people standing round the shouting auctioneers! And horses,
too, the beribboned hacks, and ponderous draught horses with
manes and tails decorated with golden straw, thundering over
the stone pavement as they are trotted up and down! And what
a profusion of fruit and vegetables, fish and meat, and all
kinds of provisions on the stalls, where women with baskets
on their arms are jostling and bargaining! The Corn Exchange
is like a huge beehive, humming with the noise of talk, full
of brown-faced farmers in their riding and driving clothes
and leggings, standing in knots or thrusting their hands into
sacks of oats and barley. You would think that all the
farmers from all the Plain were congregated there. There is a
joyful contagion in it all. Even the depressed young lover,
the forlornest of beings, repairs his wasted spirits and
takes heart again. Why, if I've seen a girl with a pretty
face to-day I've seen a hundred—and more. And she
thinks they be so few she can treat me like that and barely
give me a pleasant word in a month! Let her come to Salisbury
and see how many there be!
</p>
<p>
And so with every one in that vast assemblage—vast to
the dweller in the Plain. Each one is present as it were in
two places, since each has in his or her heart the constant
image of home—the little, peaceful village in the
remote valley; of father and mother and neighbours and
children, in school just now, or at play, or home to
dinner—home cares and concerns and the business in
Salisbury. The selling and buying; friends and relations to
visit or to meet in the market-place, and—how
often!—the sick one to be seen at the Infirmary. This
home of the injured and ailing, which is in the mind of so
many of the people gathered together, is indeed the cord that
draws and binds the city and the village closest together and
makes the two like one.
</p>
<p>
That great, comely building of warm, red brick in Fisherton
Street, set well back so that you can see it as a whole,
behind its cedar and beech-trees—how familiar it is to
the villagers! In numberless humble homes, in hundreds of
villages of the Plain, and all over the surrounding country,
the "Infirmary" is a name of the deepest meaning, and a place
of many gad and tender and beautiful associations. I heard it
spoken of in a manner which surprised me at first, for I know
some of the London poor and am accustomed to their attitude
towards the metropolitan hospitals. The Londoner uses them
very freely; they have come to be as necessary to him as the
grocer's shop and the public-house, but for all the benefits
he receives from them he has no faintest sense of gratitude,
and it is my experience that if you speak to him of this he
is roused to anger and demands, "What are they for?" So far
is he from having any thankful thoughts for all that has been
given him for nothing and done for him and for his, if he has
anything to say at all on the matter it is to find fault with
the hospitals and cast blame on them for not having healed
him more quickly or thoroughly.
</p>
<p>
This country town hospital and infirmary is differently
regarded by the villagers of the Plain. It is curious to find
how many among them are personally acquainted with it;
perhaps it is not easy for anyone, even in this most healthy
district, to get through life without sickness, and all are
liable to accidents. The injured or afflicted youth, taken
straight from his rough, hard life and poor cottage, wonders
at the place he finds himself in—the wide, clean, airy
room and white, easy bed, the care and skill of the doctors,
the tender nursing by women, and comforts and luxuries, all
without payment, but given as it seems to him out of pure
divine love and compassion—all this comes to him as
something strange, almost incredible. He suffers much
perhaps, but can bear pain stoically and forget it when it is
past, but the loving kindness he has experienced is
remembered.
</p>
<p>
That is one of the very great things Salisbury has for the
villagers, and there are many more which may not be spoken
of, since we do not want to lose sight of the wood on account
of the trees; only one must be mentioned for a special
reason, and that is the cathedral. The villager is extremely
familiar with it as he sees it from the market and the street
and from a distance, from all the roads which lead him to
Salisbury. Seeing it he sees everything beneath it—all
the familiar places and objects, all the streets—High
and Castle and Crane Streets, and many others, including
Endless Street, which reminds one of Sydney Smith's last
flicker of fun before that candle went out; and the "White
Hart" and the "Angel" and "Old George," and the humbler
"Goat" and "Green Man" and "Shoulder of Mutton," with many
besides; and the great, red building with its cedar-tree, and
the knot of men and boys standing on the bridge gazing down
on the trout in the swift river below; and the market-place
and its busy crowds—all the familiar sights and scenes
that come under the spire like a flock of sheep on a burning
day in summer, grouped about a great tree growing in the
pasture-land. But he is not familiar with the interior of the
great fane; it fails to draw him, doubtless because he has no
time in his busy, practical life for the cultivation of the
aesthetic faculties. There is a crust over that part of his
mind; but it need not always and ever be so; the crust is not
on the mind of the child.
</p>
<p>
Before a stall in the market-place a child is standing with
her mother—a commonplace-looking, little girl of about
twelve, blue-eyed, light-haired, with thin arms and legs,
dressed, poorly enough, for her holiday. The mother,
stoutish, in her best but much-worn black gown and a brown
straw, out-of-shape hat, decorated with bits of ribbon and a
few soiled and frayed artificial flowers. Probably she is the
wife of a labourer who works hard to keep himself and family
on fourteen shillings a week; and she, too, shows, in her
hard hands and sunburnt face, with little wrinkles appearing,
that she is a hard worker; but she is very jolly, for she is
in Salisbury on market-day, in fine weather, with several
shillings in her purse—a shilling for the fares, and
perhaps eightpence for refreshments, and the rest to be
expended in necessaries for the house. And now to increase
the pleasure of the day she has unexpectedly run against a
friend! There they stand, the two friends, basket on arm,
right in the midst of the jostling crowd, talking in their
loud, tinny voices at a tremendous rate; while the girl, with
a half-eager, half-listless expression, stands by with her
hand on her mother's dress, and every time there is a
second's pause in the eager talk she gives a little tug at
the gown and ejaculates "Mother!" The woman impatiently
shakes off the hand and says sharply, "What now, Marty! Can't
'ee let me say just a word without bothering!" and on the
talk runs again; then another tug and "Mother!" and then,
"You promised, mother," and by and by, "Mother, you said
you'd take me to the cathedral next time."
</p>
<p>
Having heard so much I wanted to hear more, and addressing
the woman I asked her why her child wanted to go. She
answered me with a good-humoured laugh, "'Tis all because she
heard 'em talking about it last winter, and she'd never been,
and I says to her, 'Never you mind, Marty, I'll take you
there the next time I go to Salisbury.'"
</p>
<p>
"And she's never forgot it," said the other woman.
</p>
<p>
"Not she—Marty ain't one to forget."
</p>
<p>
"And you been four times, mother," put in the girl.
</p>
<p>
"Have I now! Well, 'tis too late now—half-past two, and
we must be't' Goat' at four."
</p>
<p>
"Oh, mother, you promised!"
</p>
<p>
"Well, then, come along, you worriting child, and let's have
it over or you'll give me no peace"; and away they went. And
I would have followed to know the result if it had been in my
power to look into that young brain and see the thoughts and
feelings there as the crystal-gazer sees things in a crystal.
In a vague way, with some very early memories to help me, I
can imagine it—the shock of pleased wonder at the sight
of that immense interior, that far-extending nave with
pillars that stand like the tall trunks of pines and beeches,
and at the end the light screen which allows the eye to
travel on through the rich choir, to see, with fresh wonder
and delight, high up and far off, that glory of coloured
glass as of a window half-open to an unimaginable place
beyond—a heavenly cathedral to which all this is but a
dim porch or passage!
</p>
<p>
We do not properly appreciate the educational value of such
early experiences; and I use that dismal word not because it
is perfectly right or for want of a better one, but because
it is in everybody's mouth and understood by all. For all I
know to the contrary, village schools may be bundled in and
out of the cathedral from time to time, but that is not the
right way, seeing that the child's mind is not the
crowd-of-children's mind. But I can imagine that when we have
a wiser, better system of education in the villages, in which
books will not be everything, and to be shut up six or seven
hours every day to prevent the children from learning the
things that matter most—I can imagine at such a time
that the schoolmaster or mistress will say to the village
woman, "I hear you are going to Salisbury to-morrow, or next
Tuesday, and I want you to take Janie or little Dan or Peter,
and leave him for an hour to play about on the cathedral
green and watch the daws flying round the spire, and take a
peep inside while you are doing your marketing."
</p>
<p>
Back from the cathedral once more, from the infirmary, and
from shops and refreshment-houses, out in the sun among the
busy people, let us delay a little longer for the sake of our
last scene.
</p>
<p>
It was past noon on a hot, brilliant day in August, and that
splendid weather had brought in more people than I had ever
before seen congregated in Salisbury, and never had the
people seemed so talkative and merry and full of life as on
that day. I was standing at a busy spot by a row of carriers'
carts drawn up at the side of the pavement, just where there
are three public-houses close together, when I caught sight
of a young man of about twenty-two or twenty-three, a
shepherd in a grey suit and thick, iron-shod, old boots and
brown leggings, with a soft felt hat thrust jauntily on the
back of his head, coming along towards me with that
half-slouching, half-swinging gait peculiar to the men of the
downs, especially when they are in the town on pleasure bent.
Decidedly he was there on pleasure and had been indulging in
a glass or two of beer (perhaps three) and was very happy,
trolling out a song in a pleasant, musical voice as he swung
along, taking no notice of the people stopping and turning
round to stare after him, or of those of his own party who
were following and trying to keep up with him, calling to him
all the time to stop, to wait, to go slow, and give them a
chance. There were seven following him: a stout, middle-aged
woman, then a grey-haired old woman and two girls, and last a
youngish, married woman with a small boy by the hand; and the
stout woman, with a red, laughing face, cried out, "Oh, Dave,
do stop, can't 'ee! Where be going so fast, man—don't
'ee see we can't keep up with 'ee?" But he would not stop nor
listen. It was his day out, his great day in Salisbury, a
very rare occasion, and he was very happy. Then she would
turn back to the others and cry, "'Tisn't no use, he won't
bide for us—did 'ee ever see such a boy!" and laughing
and perspiring she would start on after him again.
</p>
<p>
Now this incident would have been too trivial to relate had
it not been for the appearance of the man himself—his
powerful and perfect physique and marvellously handsome
face—such a face as the old Greek sculptors have left
to the world to be universally regarded and admired for all
time as the most perfect. I do not think that this was my
feeling only; I imagine that the others in that street who
were standing still and staring after him had something of
the same sense of surprise and admiration he excited in me.
Just then it happened that there was a great commotion
outside one of the public-houses, where a considerable party
of gipsies in their little carts had drawn up, and were all
engaged in a violent, confused altercation. Probably they, or
one of them, had just disposed of a couple of stolen ducks,
or a sheepskin, or a few rabbits, and they were quarrelling
over the division of the spoil. At all events they were
violently excited, scowling at each other and one or two in a
dancing rage, and had collected a crowd of amused lookers-on;
but when the young man came singing by they all turned to
stare at him.
</p>
<p>
As he came on I placed myself directly in his path and stared
straight into his eyes—grey eyes and very beautiful;
but he refused to see me; he stared through me like an animal
when you try to catch its eyes, and went by still trolling
out his song, with all the others streaming after him.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch03"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER III
</h2>
<h3>
WINTERBOURNE BISHOP
</h3>
<blockquote>
A favourite village—Isolated situation—Appearance
of the village—Hedge-fruit—The
winterbourne—Human interest—The home
feeling—Man in harmony with nature—Human bones
thrown out by a rabbit—A spot unspoiled and unchanged
</blockquote>
<p>
Of the few widely separated villages, hidden away among the
lonely downs in the large, blank spaces between the rivers,
the one I love best is Winterbourne Bishop. Yet of the entire
number—I know them all intimately—I daresay it
would be pronounced by most persons the least attractive. It
has less shade from trees in summer and is more exposed in
winter to the bleak winds of this high country, from
whichever quarter they may blow. Placed high itself on a
wide, unwooded valley or depression, with the low, sloping
downs at some distance away, the village is about as cold a
place to pass a winter in as one could find in this district.
And, it may be added, the most inconvenient to live in at any
time, the nearest town, or the easiest to get to, being
Salisbury, twelve miles distant by a hilly road. The only
means of getting to that great centre of life which the
inhabitants possess is by the carrier's cart, which makes the
weary four-hours' journey once a week, on market-day.
Naturally, not many of them see that place of delights
oftener than once a year, and some but once in five or more
years.
</p>
<p>
Then, as to the village itself, when you have got down into
its one long, rather winding street, or road. This has a
green bank, five or six feet high, on either side, on which
stand the cottages, mostly facing the road. Real houses there
are none—buildings worthy of being called houses in
these great days—unless the three small farm-houses are
considered better than cottages, and the rather mean-looking
rectory—the rector, poor man, is very poor. Just in the
middle part, where the church stands in its green churchyard,
the shadiest spot in the village, a few of the cottages are
close together, almost touching, then farther apart, twenty
yards or so, then farther still, forty or fifty yards. They
are small, old cottages; a few have seventeenth-century dates
cut on stone tablets on their fronts, but the undated ones
look equally old; some thatched, others tiled, but none
particularly attractive. Certainly they are without the added
charm of a green drapery—creeper or ivy rose, clematis,
and honeysuckle; and they are also mostly without the
cottage-garden flowers, unprofitably gay like the blossoming
furze, but dear to the soul: the flowers we find in so many
of the villages along the rivers, especially in those of the
Wylye valley to be described in a later chapter.
</p>
<p>
The trees, I have said, are few, though the churchyard is
shady, where you can refresh yourself beneath its ancient
beeches and its one wide-branching yew, or sit on a tomb in
the sun when you wish for warmth and brightness. The trees
growing by or near the street are mostly ash or beech, with a
pine or two, old but not large; and there are small or dwarf
yew-, holly-, and thorn-trees. Very little fruit is grown;
two or three to half a dozen apple- and damson-trees are
called an orchard, and one is sorry for the children. But in
late summer and autumn they get their fruit from the hedges.
These run up towards the downs on either side of the village,
at right angles with its street; long, unkept hedges,
beautiful with scarlet haws and traveller's-joy, rich in
bramble and elder berries and purple sloes and nuts—a
thousand times more nuts than the little dormice require for
their own modest wants.
</p>
<p>
Finally, to go back to its disadvantages, the village is
waterless; at all events in summer, when water is most
wanted. Water is such a blessing and joy in a village—a
joy for ever when it flows throughout the year, as at Nether
Stowey and Winsford and Bourton-on-the-Water, to mention but
three of all those happy villages in the land which are known
to most of us! What man on coming to such places and watching
the rushing, sparkling, foaming torrent by day and listening
to its splashing, gurgling sounds by night, does not resolve
that he will live in no village that has not a perennial
stream in it! This unblessed, high and dry village has
nothing but the winter bourne which gives it its name; a sort
of surname common to a score or two of villages in Wiltshire,
Dorset, Somerset, and Hants. Here the bed of the stream lies
by the bank on one side of the village street, and when the
autumn and early winter rains have fallen abundantly, the
hidden reservoirs within the chalk hills are filled to
overflowing; then the water finds its way out and fills the
dry old channel and sometimes turns the whole street into a
rushing river, to the immense joy of the village children.
They are like ducks, hatched and reared at some upland farm
where there was not even a muddy pool to dibble in. For a
season (the wet one) the village women have water at their
own doors and can go out and dip pails in it as often as they
want. When spring comes it is still flowing merrily, trying
to make you believe that it is going to flow for ever;
beautiful, green water-loving plants and grasses spring up
and flourish along the roadside, and you may see comfrey and
water forget-me-not in flower. Pools, too, have been formed
in some deep, hollow places; they are fringed with tall
grasses, whitened over with bloom of water-crowfoot, and poa
grass grows up from the bottom to spread its green tresses
over the surface. Better still, by and by a couple of stray
moorhens make their appearance in the pool—strange
birds, coloured glossy olive-brown, slashed with white, with
splendid scarlet and yellow beaks! If by some strange chance
a shining blue kingfisher were to appear it could not create
a greater excitement. So much attention do they receive that
the poor strangers have no peace of their lives. It is a
happy time for the children, and a good time for the busy
housewife, who has all the water she wants for cooking and
washing and cleaning—she may now dash as many pailfuls
over her brick floors as she likes. Then the clear, swift
current begins to diminish, and scarcely have you had time to
notice the change than it is altogether gone! The women must
go back to the well and let the bucket down, and laboriously
turn and turn the handle of the windlass till it mounts to
the top again. The pretty moist, green herbage, the graceful
grasses, quickly wither away; dust and straws and rubbish
from the road lie in the dry channel, and by and by it is
filled with a summer growth of dock and loveless nettles
which no child may touch with impunity.
</p>
<p>
No, I cannot think that any person for whom it had no
association, no secret interest, would, after looking at this
village with its dried-up winterbourne, care to make his home
in it. And no person, I imagine, wants to see it; for it has
no special attraction and is away from any road, at a
distance from everywhere. I knew a great many villages in
Salisbury Plain, and was always adding to their number, but
there was no intention of visiting this one. Perhaps there is
not a village on the Plain, or anywhere in Wiltshire for that
matter, which sees fewer strangers. Then I fell in with the
old shepherd whose life will be related in the succeeding
chapters, and who, away from his native place, had no story
about his past life and the lives of those he had
known—no thought in his mind, I might almost say, which
was not connected with the village of Winterbourne Bishop.
And many of his anecdotes and reflections proved so
interesting that I fell into the habit of putting them down
in my notebook; until in the end the place itself, where he
had followed his "homely trade" so long, seeing and feeling
so much, drew me to it. I knew there was "nothing to see" in
it, that it was without the usual attractions; that there
was, in fact, nothing but the human interest, but that was
enough. So I came to it to satisfy an idle
curiosity—just to see how it would accord with the
mental picture produced by his description of it. I came, I
may say, prepared to like the place for the sole but
sufficient reason that it had been his home. Had it not been
for this feeling he had produced in me I should not, I
imagine, have cared to stay long in it. As it was, I did
stay, then came again and found that it was growing on me. I
wondered why; for the mere interest in the old shepherd's
life memories did not seem enough to account for this
deepening attachment. It began to seem to me that I liked it
more and more because of its very barrenness—the entire
absence of all the features which make a place attractive,
noble scenery, woods, and waters; deer parks and old houses,
Tudor, Elizabethan, Jacobean, stately and beautiful, full of
art treasures; ancient monuments and historical associations.
There were none of these things; there was nothing here but
that wide, vacant expanse, very thinly populated with humble,
rural folk—farmers, shepherds, labourers—living
in very humble houses. England is so full of riches in
ancient monuments and grand and interesting and lovely
buildings and objects and scenes, that it is perhaps too
rich. For we may get into the habit of looking for such
things, expecting them at every turn, every mile of the way.
</p>
<p>
I found it a relief, at Winterbourne Bishop, to be in a
country which had nothing to draw a man out of a town. A
wide, empty land, with nothing on it to look at but a
furze-bush; or when I had gained the summit of the down, and
to get a little higher still stood on the top of one of its
many barrows, a sight of the distant village, its low, grey
or reddish-brown cottages half hidden among its few trees,
the square, stone tower of its little church looking at a
distance no taller than a milestone. That emptiness seemed
good for both mind and body: I could spend long hours idly
sauntering or sitting or lying on the turf, thinking of
nothing, or only of one thing—that it was a relief to
have no thought about anything.
</p>
<p>
But no, something was secretly saying to me all the time,
that it was more than what I have said which continued to
draw me to this vacant place—more than the mere relief
experienced on coming back to nature and solitude, and the
freedom of a wide earth and sky. I was not fully conscious of
what the something more was until after repeated visits. On
each occasion it was a pleasure to leave Salisbury behind and
set out on that long, hilly road, and the feeling would keep
with me all the journey, even in bad weather, sultry or cold,
or with the wind hard against me, blowing the white chalk
dust into my eyes. From the time I left the turnpike to go
the last two and a half to three miles by the side-road I
would gaze eagerly ahead for a sight of my destination long
before it could possibly be seen; until, on gaining the
summit of a low, intervening down, the wished scene would be
disclosed—the vale-like, wide depression, with its line
of trees, blue-green in the distance, flecks of red and grey
colour of the houses among them—and at that sight there
would come a sense of elation, like that of coming home.
</p>
<p>
This in fact was the secret! This empty place was, in its
aspect, despite the difference in configuration between down
and undulating plain, more like the home of my early years
than any other place known to me in the country. I can note
many differences, but they do not deprive me of this home
feeling; it is the likenesses that hold me, the spirit of the
place, one which is not a desert with the desert's melancholy
or sense of desolation, but inhabited, although thinly and by
humble-minded men whose work and dwellings are unobtrusive.
The final effect of this wide, green space with signs of
human life and labour on it, and sight of animals—sheep
and cattle—at various distances, is that we are not
aliens here, intruders or invaders on the earth, living in it
but apart, perhaps hating and spoiling it, but with the other
animals are children of Nature, like them living and seeking
our subsistence under her sky, familiar with her sun and wind
and rain.
</p>
<p>
If some ostentatious person had come to this strangely quiet
spot and raised a staring, big house, the sight of it in the
landscape would have made it impossible to have such a
feeling as I have described—this sense of man's harmony
and oneness with nature. From how much of England has this
expression which nature has for the spirit, which is so much
more to us than beauty of scenery, been blotted out! This
quiet spot in Wiltshire has been inhabited from of old, how
far back in time the barrows raised by an ancient, barbarous
people are there to tell us, and to show us how long it is
possible for the race of men, in all stages of culture, to
exist on the earth without spoiling it.
</p>
<p>
One afternoon when walking on Bishop Down I noticed at a
distance of a hundred yards or more that a rabbit had started
making a burrow in a new place and had thrown out a vast
quantity of earth. Going to the spot to see what kind of
chalk or soil he was digging so deeply in, I found that he
had thrown out a human thigh-bone and a rib or two. They were
of a reddish-white colour and had been embedded in a hard
mixture of chalk and red earth. The following day I went
again, and there were more bones, and every day after that
the number increased until it seemed to me that he had
brought out the entire skeleton, minus the skull, which I had
been curious to see. Then the bones disappeared. The man who
looked after the game had seen them, and recognizing that
they were human remains had judiciously taken them away to
destroy or stow them away in some safe place. For if the
village constable had discovered them, or heard of their
presence, he would perhaps have made a fuss and even thought
it necessary to communicate with the coroner of the district.
Such things occasionally happen, even in Wiltshire where the
chalk hills are full of the bones of dead men, and a solemn
Crowner's quest is held on the remains of a Saxon or Dane or
an ancient Briton. When some important person—a Sir
Richard Colt Hoare, for example, who dug up 379 barrows in
Wiltshire, or a General Pitt Rivers throws out human remains
nobody minds, but if an unauthorized rabbit kicks out a lot
of bones the matter should be inquired into.
</p>
<p>
But the man whose bones had been thus thrown out into the
sunlight after lying so long at that spot, which commanded a
view of the distant, little village looking so small in that
immense, green space—who and what was he, and how long
ago did he live on the earth—at Winterbourne Bishop,
let us say? There were two barrows in that part of the down,
but quite a stone's-throw away from the spot where the rabbit
was working, so that he may not have been one of the people
of that period. Still, it is probable that he was buried a
very long time ago, centuries back, perhaps a thousand years,
perhaps longer, and by chance there was a slope there which
prevented the water from percolating, and the soil in which
he had been deposited, under that close-knit turf which
looked as if it had never been disturbed, was one in which
bones might keep uncrumbled for ever.
</p>
<p>
The thought that occurred to me at the time was that if the
man himself had come back to life after so long a period, to
stand once more on that down surveying the scene, he would
have noticed little change in it, certainly nothing of a
startling description. The village itself, looking so small
at that distance, in the centre of the vast depression, would
probably not be strange to him. It was doubtless there as far
back as history goes and probably still farther back in time.
For at that point, just where the winterbourne gushes out
from the low hills, is the spot man would naturally select to
make his home. And he would see no mansion or big building,
no puff of white steam and sight of a long, black train
creeping over the earth, nor any other strange thing. It
would appear to him even as he knew it before he fell
asleep—the same familiar scene, with furze and bramble
and bracken on the slope, the wide expanse with sheep and
cattle grazing in the distance, and the dark green of trees
in the hollows, and fold on fold of the low down beyond,
stretching away to the dim, farthest horizon.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch04"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER IV
</h2>
<h3>
A SHEPHERD OF THE DOWNS
</h3>
<blockquote>
Caleb Bawcombe—An old shepherd's love of his
home—Fifty years' shepherding—Bawcombe's singular
appearance—A tale of a titlark—Caleb Bawcombe's
father—Father and son—A grateful sportsman and
Isaac Bawcombe's pension—Death following death in old
married couples—In a village churchyard—A
farm-labourer's gravestone and his story
</blockquote>
<p>
It is now several years since I first met Caleb Bawcombe, a
shepherd of the South Wiltshire Downs, but already old and
infirm and past work. I met him at a distance from his native
village, and it was only after I had known him a long time
and had spent many afternoons and evenings in his company,
listening to his anecdotes of his shepherding days, that I
went to see his own old home for myself—the village of
Winterbourne Bishop already described, to find it a place
after my own heart. But as I have said, if I had never known
Caleb and heard so much from him about his own life and the
lives of many of his fellow-villagers, I should probably
never have seen this village.
</p>
<p>
One of his memories was of an old shepherd named John, whose
acquaintance he made when a very young man—John being
at that time seventy-eight years old—on the
Winterbourne Bishop farm, where he had served for an unbroken
period of close on sixty years. Though so aged he was still
head shepherd, and he continued to hold that place seven
years longer—until his master, who had taken over old
John with the place, finally gave up the farm and farming at
the same time. He, too, was getting past work and wished to
spend his declining years in his native village in an
adjoining parish, where he owned some house and cottage
property. And now what was to become of the old shepherd,
since the new tenant had brought his own men with
him?—and he, moreover, considered that John, at
eighty-five, was too old to tend a flock on the hills, even
of tegs. His old master, anxious to help him, tried to get
him some employment in the village where he wished to stay;
and failing in this, he at last offered him a cottage rent
free in the village where he was going to live himself, and,
in addition, twelve shillings a week for the rest of his
life. It was in those days an exceedingly generous offer, but
John refused it. "Master," he said, "I be going to stay in my
own native village, and if I can't make a living the
parish'll have to keep I; but keep or not keep, here I be and
here I be going to stay, where I were borned."
</p>
<p>
From this position the stubborn old man refused to be moved,
and there at Winterbourne Bishop his master had to leave him,
although not without having first made him a sufficient
provision.
</p>
<p>
The way in which my old friend, Caleb Bawcombe, told the
story plainly revealed his own feeling in the matter. He
understood and had the keenest sympathy with old John, dead
now over half a century; or rather, let us say, resting very
peacefully in that green spot under the old grey tower of
Winterbourne Bishop church where as a small boy he had played
among the old gravestones as far back in time as the middle
of the eighteenth century. But old John had long survived
wife and children, and having no one but himself to think of
was at liberty to end his days where he pleased. Not so with
Caleb, for, although his undying passion for home and his
love of the shepherd's calling were as great as John's, he
was not so free, and he was compelled at last to leave his
native downs, which he may never see again, to settle for the
remainder of his days in another part of the country.
</p>
<p>
Early in life he "caught a chill" through long exposure to
wet and cold in winter; this brought on rheumatic fever and a
malady of the thigh, which finally affected the whole limb
and made him lame for life. Thus handicapped he had continued
as shepherd for close on fifty years, during which time his
sons and daughters had grown up, married, and gone away,
mostly to a considerable distance, leaving their aged parents
alone once more. Then the wife, who was a strong woman and of
an enterprising temper, found an opening for herself at a
distance from home where she could start a little business.
Caleb indignantly refused to give up shepherding in his place
to take part in so unheard-of an adventure; but after a year
or more of life in his lonely hut among the hills and cold,
empty cottage in the village, he at length tore himself away
from that beloved spot and set forth on the longest journey
of his life—about forty-five miles—to join her
and help in the work of her new home. Here a few years later
I found him, aged seventy-two, but owing to his increasing
infirmities looking considerably more. When he considered
that his father, a shepherd before him on those same
Wiltshire Downs, lived to eighty-six, and his mother to
eighty-four, and that both were vigorous and led active lives
almost to the end, he thought it strange that his own work
should be so soon done. For in heart and mind he was still
young; he did not want to rest yet.
</p>
<p>
Since that first meeting nine years have passed, and as he is
actually better in health to-day than he was then, there is
good reason to hope that his staying power will equal that of
his father.
</p>
<p>
I was at first struck with the singularity of Caleb's
appearance, and later by the expression of his eyes. A very
tall, big-boned, lean, round-shouldered man, he was uncouth
almost to the verge of grotesqueness, and walked painfully
with the aid of a stick, dragging his shrunken and shortened
bad leg. His head was long and narrow, and his high forehead,
long nose, long chin, and long, coarse, grey whiskers, worn
like a beard on his throat, produced a goat-like effect. This
was heightened by the ears and eyes. The big ears stood out
from his head, and owing to a peculiar bend or curl in the
membrane at the top they looked at certain angles almost
pointed. The hazel eyes were wonderfully clear, but that
quality was less remarkable than the unhuman intelligence in
them—fawn-like eyes that gazed steadily at you as one
may gaze through the window, open back and front, of a house
at the landscape beyond. This peculiarity was a little
disconcerting at first, when, after making his acquaintance
out of doors, I went in uninvited and sat down with him at
his own fireside. The busy old wife talked of this and that,
and hinted as politely as she knew how that I was in her way.
To her practical, peasant mind there was no sense in my being
there. "He be a stranger to we, and we be strangers to he."
Caleb was silent, and his clear eyes showed neither annoyance
nor pleasure but only their native, wild alertness, but the
caste feeling is always less strong in the hill shepherd than
in other men who are on the land; in some cases it will
vanish at a touch, and it was so in this one. A canary in a
cage hanging in the kitchen served to introduce the subject
of birds captive and birds free. I said that I liked the
little yellow bird, and was not vexed to see him in a cage,
since he was cage-born; but I considered that those who
caught wild birds and kept them prisoners did not properly
understand things. This happened to be Caleb's view. He had a
curiously tender feeling about the little wild birds, and one
amusing incident of his boyhood which he remembered came out
during our talk. He was out on the down one summer day in
charge of his father's flock, when two boys of the village on
a ramble in the hills came and sat down on the turf by his
side. One of them had a titlark, or meadow pipit, which he
had just caught, in his hand, and there was a hot argument as
to which of the two was the lawful owner of the poor little
captive. The facts were as follows. One of the boys having
found the nest became possessed with the desire to get the
bird. His companion at once offered to catch it for him, and
together they withdrew to a distance and sat down and waited
until the bird returned to sit on the eggs. Then the young
birdcatcher returned to the spot, and creeping quietly up to
within five or six feet of the nest threw his hat so that it
fell over the sitting titlark; but after having thus secured
it he refused to give it up. The dispute waxed hotter as they
sat there, and at last when it got to the point of threats of
cuffs on the ear and slaps on the face they agreed to fight
it out, the victor to have the titlark. The bird was then put
under a hat for safety on the smooth turf a few feet away,
and the boys proceeded to take off their jackets and roll up
their shirt-sleeves, after which they faced one another, and
were just about to begin when Caleb, thrusting out his crook,
turned the hat over and away flew the titlark.
</p>
<p>
The boys, deprived of their bird and of an excuse for a
fight, would gladly have discharged their fury on Caleb, but
they durst not, seeing that his dog was lying at his side;
they could only threaten and abuse him, call him bad names,
and finally put on their coats and walk off.
</p>
<p>
That pretty little tale of a titlark was but the first of a
long succession of memories of his early years, with half a
century of shepherding life on the downs, which came out
during our talks on many autumn and winter evenings as we sat
by his kitchen fire. The earlier of these memories were
always the best to me, because they took one back sixty years
or more, to a time when there was more wildness in the earth
than now, and a nobler wild animal life. Even more
interesting were some of the memories of his father, Isaac
Bawcombe, whose time went back to the early years of the
nineteenth century. Caleb cherished an admiration and
reverence for his father's memory which were almost a
worship, and he loved to describe him as he appeared in his
old age, when upwards of eighty. He was erect and tall,
standing six feet two in height, well proportioned, with a
clean-shaved, florid face, clear, dark eyes, and silver-white
hair; and at this later period of his life he always wore the
dress of an old order of pensioners to which he had been
admitted—a soft, broad, white felt hat, thick boots and
brown leather leggings, and a long, grey cloth overcoat with
red collar and brass buttons.
</p>
<p>
According to Caleb, he must have been an exceedingly fine
specimen of a man, both physically and morally. Born in 1800,
he began following a flock as a boy, and continued as
shepherd on the same farm until he was sixty, never rising to
more than seven shillings a week and nothing found, since he
lived in the cottage where he was born and which he inherited
from his father. That a man of his fine powers, a
head-shepherd on a large hill-farm, should have had no better
pay than that down to the year 1860, after nearly half a
century of work in one place, seems almost incredible. Even
his sons, as they grew up to man's estate, advised him to ask
for an increase, but he would not. Seven shillings a week he
had always had; and that small sum, with something his wife
earned by making highly finished smock-frocks, had been
sufficient to keep them all in a decent way; and his sons
were now all earning their own living. But Caleb got married,
and resolved to leave the old farm at Bishop to take a better
place at a distance from home, at Warminster, which had been
offered him. He would there have a cottage to live in, nine
shillings a week, and a sack of barley for his dog. At that
time the shepherd had to keep his own dog—no small
expense to him when his wages were no more than six to eight
shillings a week. But Caleb was his father's favourite son,
and the old man could not endure the thought of losing sight
of him; and at last, finding that he could not persuade him
not to leave the old home, he became angry, and told him that
if he went away to Warminster for the sake of the higher
wages and barley for the dog he would disown him! This was a
serious matter to Caleb, in spite of the fact that a shepherd
has no money to leave to his children when he passes away. He
went nevertheless, for, though he loved and reverenced his
father, he had a young wife who pulled the other way; and he
was absent for years, and when he returned the old man's
heart had softened, so that he was glad to welcome him back
to the old home.
</p>
<p>
Meanwhile at that humble cottage at Winterbourne Bishop great
things had happened; old Isaac was no longer shepherding on
the downs, but living very comfortably in his own cottage in
the village. The change came about in this way.
</p>
<p>
The downland shepherds, Caleb said, were as a rule clever
poachers; and it is really not surprising, when one considers
the temptation to a man with a wife and several hungry
children, besides himself and a dog, to feed out of about
seven shillings a week. But old Bawcombe was an exception: he
would take no game, furred or feathered, nor, if he could
prevent it, allow another to take anything from the land fed
by his flock. Caleb and his brothers, when as boys and youths
they began their shepherding, sometimes caught a rabbit, or
their dog caught and killed one without their encouragement;
but, however the thing came into their hands, they could not
take it home on account of their father. Now it happened that
an elderly gentleman who had the shooting was a keen
sportsman, and that in several successive years he found a
wonderful difference in the amount of game at one spot among
the hills and in all the rest of his hill property. The only
explanation the keeper could give was that Isaac Bawcombe
tended his flock on that down where rabbits, hares, and
partridges were so plentiful. One autumn day the gentleman
was shooting over that down, and seeing a big man in a
smock-frock standing motionless, crook in hand, regarding
him, he called out to his keeper, who was with him, "Who is
that big man?" and was told that it was Shepherd Bawcombe.
The old gentleman pulled some money out of his pocket and
said, "Give him this half-crown, and thank him for the good
sport I've had to-day." But after the coin had been given the
giver still remained standing there, thinking, perhaps, that
he had not yet sufficiently rewarded the man; and at last,
before turning away, he shouted, "Bawcombe, that's not all.
You'll get something more by and by."
</p>
<p>
Isaac had not long to wait for the something more, and it
turned out not to be the hare or brace of birds he had half
expected. It happened that the sportsman was one of the
trustees of an ancient charity which provided for six of the
most deserving old men of the parish of Bishop; now, one of
the six had recently died, and on this gentleman's
recommendation Bawcombe had been elected to fill the vacant
place. The letter from Salisbury informing him of his
election and commanding his presence in that city filled him
with astonishment; for, though he was sixty years old and the
father of three sons now out in the world, he could not yet
regard himself as an old man, for he had never known a day's
illness, nor an ache, and was famed in all that neighbourhood
for his great physical strength and endurance. And now, with
his own cottage to live in, eight shillings a week, and his
pensioners' garments, with certain other benefits, and a
shilling a day besides which his old master paid him for some
services at the farm-house in the village, Isaac found
himself very well off indeed, and he enjoyed his prosperous
state for twenty-six years. Then, in 1886, his old wife fell
ill and died, and no sooner was she in her grave than he,
too, began to droop; and soon, before the year was out, he
followed her, because, as the neighbours said, they had
always been a loving pair and one could not 'bide without the
other.
</p>
<p>
This chapter has already had its proper ending and there was
no intention of adding to it, but now for a special reason,
which I trust the reader will pardon when he hears it, I must
go on to say something about that strange phenomenon of death
succeeding death in old married couples, one dying for no
other reason than that the other has died. For it is our
instinct to hold fast to life, and the older a man gets if he
be sane the more he becomes like a newborn child in the
impulse to grip tightly. A strange and a rare thing among
people generally (the people we know), it is nevertheless
quite common among persons of the labouring class in the
rural districts. I have sometimes marvelled at the number of
such cases to be met with in the villages; but when one comes
to think about it one ceases to wonder that it should be so.
For the labourer on the land goes on from boyhood to the end
of life in the same everlasting round, the changes from task
to task, according to the seasons, being no greater than in
the case of the animals that alter their actions and habits
to suit the varying conditions of the year. March and August
and December, and every month, will bring about the changes
in the atmosphere and earth and vegetation and in the
animals, which have been from of old, which he knows how to
meet, and the old, familiar task, lambing-time,
shearing-time, root and seed crops hoeing, haymaking,
harvesting. It is a life of the extremest simplicity, without
all those interests outside the home and the daily task, the
innumerable distractions, common to all persons in other
classes and to the workmen in towns as well. Incidentally it
may be said that it is also the healthiest, that, speaking
generally, the agricultural labourer is the healthiest and
sanest man in the land, if not also the happiest, as some
believe.
</p>
<p>
It is this life of simple, unchanging actions and of habits
that are like instincts, of hard labour in sun and wind and
rain from day to day, with its weekly break and rest, and of
but few comforts and no luxuries, which serves to bind man
and wife so closely. And the longer their life goes on
together the closer and more unbreakable the union grows.
They are growing old: old friends and companions have died or
left them; their children have married and gone away and have
their own families and affairs, so that the old folks at home
are little remembered, and to all others they have become of
little consequence in the world. But they do not know it, for
they are together, cherishing the same memories, speaking of
the same old, familiar things, and their lost friends and
companions, their absent, perhaps estranged, children, are
with them still in mind as in the old days. The past is with
them more than the present, to give an undying interest to
life; for they share it, and it is only when one goes, when
the old wife gets the tea ready and goes mechanically to the
door to gaze out, knowing that her tired man will come in no
more to take his customary place and listen to all the things
she has stored up in her mind during the day to tell him; and
when the tired labourer comes in at dusk to find no old wife
waiting to give him his tea and talk to him while he
refreshes himself, he all at once realizes his position; he
finds himself cut off from the entire world, from all of his
kind. Where are they all? The enduring sympathy of that one
soul that was with him till now had kept him in touch with
life, had made it seem unchanged and unchangeable, and with
that soul has vanished the old, sweet illusion as well as all
ties, all common, human affection. He is desolate, indeed,
alone in a desert world, and it is not strange that in many
and many a case, even in that of a man still strong,
untouched by disease and good for another decade or two, the
loss, the awful solitude, has proved too much for him.
</p>
<p>
Such cases, I have said, are common, but they are not
recorded, though it is possible with labour to pick them out
in the church registers; but in the churchyards you do not
find them, since the farm-labourer has only a green mound to
mark the spot where he lies. Nevertheless, he is sometimes
honoured with a gravestone, and last August I came by chance
on one on which was recorded a case like that of Isaac
Bawcombe and his life-mate.
</p>
<p>
The churchyard is in one of the prettiest and most secluded
villages in the downland country described in this book. The
church is ancient and beautiful and interesting in many ways,
and the churchyard, too, is one of the most interesting I
know, a beautiful, green, tree-shaded spot, with an
extraordinary number of tombs and gravestones, many of them
dated in the eighteenth and seventeenth centuries, inscribed
with names of families which have long died out.
</p>
<p>
I went on that afternoon to pass an hour in the churchyard,
and finding an old man in labourer's clothes resting on a
tomb, I sat down and entered into conversation with him. He
was seventy-nine, he told me, and past work, and he had three
shillings a week from the parish; but he was very deaf and it
fatigued me to talk to him, and seeing the church open I went
in. On previous visits I had had a good deal of trouble to
get the key, and to find it open now was a pleasant surprise.
An old woman was there dusting the seats, and by and by,
while I was talking with her, the old labourer came stumping
in with his ponderous, iron-shod boots and without taking off
his old, rusty hat, and began shouting at the church-cleaner
about a pair of trousers he had given her to mend, which he
wanted badly. Leaving them to their arguing I went out and
began studying the inscriptions on the stones, so hard to
make out in some instances; the old man followed and went his
way; then the church-cleaner came out to where I was
standing. "A tiresome old man!" she said. "He's that deaf he
has to shout to hear himself speak, then you've got to shout
back—and all about his old trousers!"
</p>
<p>
"I suppose he wants them," I returned, "and you promised to
do them, so he has some reason for going at you about it."
</p>
<p>
"Oh no, he hasn't," she replied. "The girl brought them for
me to mend, and I said, 'Leave them and I'll do them when
I've time'—how did I know he wanted them in a hurry? A
troublesome old man!"
</p>
<p>
By and by, taking a pair of spectacles out of her pocket, she
put them on, and going down on her knees she began
industriously picking the old, brown, dead moss out of the
lettering on one side of the tomb. "I'd like to know what it
says on this stone," she said.
</p>
<p>
"Well, you can read it for yourself, now you've got your
glasses on."
</p>
<p>
"I can't read. You see, I'm old—seventy-six years, and
when I were little we were very poor and I couldn't get no
schooling. I've got these glasses to do my sewing, and only
put them on to get this stuff out so's you could read it. I'd
like to hear you read it."
</p>
<p>
I began to get interested in the old dame who talked to me so
freely. She was small and weak-looking, and appeared very
thin in her limp, old, faded gown; she had a meek, patient
expression on her face, and her voice, too, like her face,
expressed weariness and resignation.
</p>
<p>
"But if you have always lived here you must know what is said
on this stone?"
</p>
<p>
"No, I don't; nobody never read it to me, and I couldn't read
it because I wasn't taught to read. But I'd like to hear you
read it."
</p>
<p>
It was a long inscription to a person named Ash, gentleman,
of this parish, who departed this life over a century ago,
and was a man of a noble and generous disposition, good as a
husband, a father, a friend, and charitable to the poor.
Under all were some lines of verse, scarcely legible in spite
of the trouble she had taken to remove the old moss from the
letters.
</p>
<p>
She listened with profound interest, then said, "I never
heard all that before; I didn't know the name, though I've
known this stone since I was a child. I used to climb on to
it then. Can you read me another?"
</p>
<p>
I read her another and several more, then came to one which
she said she knew—every word of it, for this was the
grave of the sweetest, kindest woman that ever lived. Oh, how
good this dear woman had been to her in her young married
life more'n fifty years ago! If that dear lady had only lived
it would not have been so hard for her when her trouble come!
</p>
<p>
"And what was your trouble?"
</p>
<p>
"It was the loss of my poor man. He was such a good man, a
thatcher; and he fell from a rick and injured his spine, and
he died, poor fellow, and left me with our five little
children." Then, having told me her own tragedy, to my
surprise she brightened up and begged me to read other
inscriptions to her.
</p>
<p>
I went on reading, and presently she said, "No, that's wrong.
There wasn't ever a Lampard in this parish. That I know."
</p>
<p>
"You don't know! There certainly was a Lampard or it would
not be stated here, cut in deep letters on this stone."
</p>
<p>
"No, there wasn't a Lampard. I've never known such a name and
I've lived here all my life."
</p>
<p>
"But there were people living here before you came on the
scene. He died a long time ago, this Lampard—in 1714,
it says. And you are only seventy-six, you tell me; that is
to say, you were born in 1835, and that would be one hundred
and twenty-one years after he died."
</p>
<p>
"That's a long time! It must be very old, this stone. And the
church too. I've heard say it was once a Roman Catholic
church. Is that true?"
</p>
<p>
"Why, of course it's true—all the old churches were,
and we were all of that faith until a King of England had a
quarrel with the Pope and determined he would be Pope himself
as well as king in his own country. So he turned all the
priests and monks out, and took their property and churches
and had his own men put in. That was Henry VIII."
</p>
<p>
"I've heard something about that king and his wives. But
about Lampard, it do seem strange I've never heard that name
before."
</p>
<p>
"Not strange at all; it was a common name in this part of
Wiltshire in former days; you find it in dozens of
churchyards, but you'll find very few Lampards living in the
villages. Why, I could tell you a dozen or twenty surnames,
some queer, funny names, that were common in these parts not
more than a century ago which seem to have quite died out."
</p>
<p>
"I should like to hear some of them if you'll tell me."
</p>
<p>
"Let me think a moment: there was Thorr, Pizzie, Gee, Every,
Pottle, Kiddle, Toomer, Shergold, and—"
</p>
<p>
Here she interrupted to say that she knew three of the names
I had mentioned. Then, pointing to a small, upright
gravestone about twenty feet away, she added, "And there's
one."
</p>
<p>
"Very well," I said, "but don't keep putting me
out—I've got more names in my mind to tell you.
Maidment, Marchmont, Velvin, Burpitt, Winzur, Rideout,
Cullurne."
</p>
<p>
Of these she only knew one—Rideout.
</p>
<p>
Then I went over to the stone she had pointed to and read the
inscription to John Toomer and his wife Rebecca. She died
first, in March 1877, aged 72; he in July the same year, aged
75.
</p>
<p>
"You knew them, I suppose?"
</p>
<p>
"Yes, they belonged here, both of them."
</p>
<p>
"Tell me about them."
</p>
<p>
"There's nothing to tell; he was only a labourer and worked
on the same farm all his life."
</p>
<p>
"Who put a stone over them—their children?"
</p>
<p>
"No, they're all poor and live away. I think it was a lady
who lived here; she'd been good to them, and she came and
stood here when they put old John in the ground."
</p>
<p>
"But I want to hear more."
</p>
<p>
"There's no more, I've said; he was a labourer, and after she
died he died."
</p>
<p>
"Yes? go on."
</p>
<p>
"How can I go on? There's no more. I knew them so well; they
lived in the little thatched cottage over there, where the
Millards live now."
</p>
<p>
"Did they fall ill at the same time?"
</p>
<p>
"Oh no, he was as well as could be, still at work, till she
died, then he went on in a strange way. He would come in of
an evening and call his wife. 'Mother! Mother, where are
you?' you'd hear him call, 'Mother, be you upstairs? Mother,
ain't you coming down for a bit of bread and cheese before
you go to bed?' And then in a little while he just died."
</p>
<p>
"And you said there was nothing to tell!"
</p>
<p>
"No, there wasn't anything. He was just one of us, a labourer
on the farm."
</p>
<p>
I then gave her something, and to my surprise after taking it
she made me an elaborate curtsy. It rather upset me, for I
had thought we had got on very well together and were quite
free and easy in our talk, very much on a level. But she was
not done with me yet. She followed to the gate, and holding
out her open hand with that small gift in it, she said in a
pathetic voice, "Did you think, sir, I was expecting this? I
had no such thought and didn't want it."
</p>
<p>
And I had no thought of saying or writing a word about her.
But since that day she has haunted me—she and her old
John Toomer, and it has just now occurred to me that by
putting her in my book I may be able to get her out of my
mind.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch05"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER V
</h2>
<h3>
EARLY MEMORIES
</h3>
<blockquote>
A child shepherd—Isaac and his
children—Shepherding in boyhood—Two notable
sheep-dogs—Jack, the adder-killer—Sitting on an
adder—Rough and the drovers—The Salisbury
coach—A sheep-dog suckling a lamb
</blockquote>
<p>
Caleb's shepherding began in childhood; at all events he had
his first experience of it at that time. Many an old
shepherd, whose father was shepherd before him, has told me
that he began to go with the flock very early in life, when
he was no more than ten to twelve years of age. Caleb
remembered being put in charge of his father's flock at the
tender age of six. It was a new and wonderful experience, and
made so vivid and lasting an impression on his mind that now,
when he is past eighty, he speaks of it very feelingly as of
something which happened yesterday.
</p>
<p>
It was harvesting time, and Isaac, who was a good reaper, was
wanted in the field, but he could find no one, not even a
boy, to take charge of his flock in the meantime, and so to
be able to reap and keep an eye on the flock at the same time
he brought his sheep down to the part of the down adjoining
the field. It was on his "liberty," or that part of the down
where he was entitled to have his flock. He then took his
very small boy, Caleb, and placing him with the sheep told
him they were now in his charge; that he was not to lose
sight of them, and at the same time not to run about among
the furze-bushes for fear of treading on an adder. By and by
the sheep began straying off among the furze-bushes, and no
sooner would they disappear from sight than he imagined they
were lost for ever, or would be unless he quickly found them,
and to find them he had to run about among the bushes with
the terror of adders in his mind, and the two troubles
together kept him crying with misery all the time. Then, at
intervals, Isaac would leave his reaping and come to see how
he was getting on, and the tears would vanish from his eyes,
and he would feel very brave again, and to his father's
question he would reply that he was getting on very well.
</p>
<p>
Finally his father came and took him to the field, to his
great relief; but he did not carry him in his arms; he strode
along at his usual pace and let the little fellow run after
him, stumbling and falling and picking himself up again and
running on. And by and by one of the women in the field cried
out, "Be you not ashamed, Isaac, to go that pace and not bide
for the little child! I do b'lieve he's no more'n seven
year—poor mite!"
</p>
<p>
"No more'n six," answered Isaac proudly, with a laugh.
</p>
<p>
But though not soft or tender with his children he was very
fond of them, and when he came home early in the evening he
would get them round him and talk to them, and sing old songs
and ballads he had learnt in his young years—"Down in
the Village," "The Days of Queen Elizabeth," "The
Blacksmith," "The Gown of Green," "The Dawning of the Day,"
and many others, which Caleb in the end got by heart and used
to sing, too, when he was grown up.
</p>
<p>
Caleb was about nine when he began to help regularly with the
flock; that was in the summer-time, when the flock was put
every day on the down and when Isaac's services were required
for the haymaking and later for harvesting and other work.
His best memories of this period relate to his mother and to
two sheepdogs, Jack at first and afterwards Rough, both
animals of original character. Jack was a great favourite of
his master, who considered him a "tarrable good dog." He was
rather short-haired, like the old Welsh sheepdog once common
in Wiltshire, but entirely black instead of the usual
colour—blue with a sprinkling of black spots. This dog
had an intense hatred of adders and never failed to kill
every one he discovered. At the same time he knew that they
were dangerous enemies to tackle, and on catching sight of
one his hair would instantly bristle up, and he would stand
as if paralysed for some moments, glaring at it and gnashing
his teeth, then springing like a cat upon it he would seize
it in his mouth, only to hurl it from him to a distance. This
action he would repeat until the adder was dead, and Isaac
would then put it under a furze-bush to take it home and hang
it on a certain gate. The farmer, too, like the dog, hated
adders, and paid his shepherd sixpence for every one his dog
killed.
</p>
<p>
One day Caleb, with one of his brothers, was out with the
flock, amusing themselves in their usual way on the turf with
nine morris-men and the shepherd's puzzle, when all at once
their mother appeared unexpectedly on the scene. It was her
custom, when the boys were sent out with the flock, to make
expeditions to the down just to see what they were up to; and
hiding her approach by keeping to a hedge-side or by means of
the furze-bushes, she would sometimes come upon them with
disconcerting suddenness. On this occasion just where the
boys had been playing there was a low, stout furze-bush, so
dense and flat-topped that one could use it as a seat, and
his mother taking off and folding her shawl placed it on the
bush, and sat down on it to rest herself after her long walk.
"I can see her now," said Caleb, "sitting on that furze-bush,
in her smock and leggings, with a big hat like a man's on her
head—for that's how she dressed." But in a few moments
she jumped up, crying out that she felt a snake under her,
and snatched off the shawl, and there, sure enough, out of
the middle of the flat bush-top appeared the head of an
adder, flicking out its tongue. The dog, too, saw it, dashed
at the bush, forcing his muzzle and head into the middle of
it, seized the serpent by its body and plucked it out and
threw it from him, only to follow it up and kill it in the
usual way.
</p>
<p>
Rough was a large, shaggy, grey-blue bobtail bitch with a
white collar. She was a clever, good all-round dog, but had
originally been trained for the road, and one of the
shepherd's stories about her relates of her intelligence in
her own special line—the driving of sheep.
</p>
<p>
One day he and his smaller brother were in charge of the
flock on the down, and were on the side where it dips down to
the turnpike-road about a mile and a half from the village,
where a large flock, driven by two men and two dogs, came by.
They were going to the Britford sheep-fair and were behind
time; Isaac had started at daylight that morning with sheep
for the same fair, and that was the reason of the boys being
with the flock. As the flock on the down was feeding quietly
the boys determined to go to the road to watch the sheep and
men pass, and arriving at the roadside they saw that the dogs
were too tired to work and the men were getting on with great
difficulty. One of them, looking intently at Rough, asked if
she would work. "Oh, yes, she'll work," said the boy proudly,
and calling Rough he pointed to the flock moving very slowly
along the road and over the turf on either side of it. Rough
knew what was wanted; she had been looking on and had taken
the situation in with her professional eye; away she dashed,
and running up and down, first on one side then on the other,
quickly put the whole flock, numbering 800, into the road and
gave them a good start.
</p>
<p>
"Why, she be a road dog!" exclaimed the drover delightedly.
"She's better for me on the road than for you on the down;
I'll buy her of you."
</p>
<p>
"No, I mustn't sell her," said Caleb.
</p>
<p>
"Look here, boy," said the other, "I'll give 'ee a sovran and
this young dog, an' he'll be a good one with a little more
training."
</p>
<p>
"No, I mustn't," said Caleb, distressed at the other's
persistence.
</p>
<p>
"Well, will you come a little way on the road with us?" asked
the drover.
</p>
<p>
This the boys agreed to and went on for about a quarter of a
mile, when all at once the Salisbury coach appeared on the
road, coming to meet them. This new trouble was pointed out
to Rough, and at once when her little master had given the
order she dashed barking into the midst of the mass of sheep
and drove them furiously to the side from end to end of the
extended flock, making a clear passage for the coach, which
was not delayed a minute. And no sooner was the coach gone
than the sheep were put back into the road.
</p>
<p>
Then the drover pulled out his sovereign once more and tried
to make the boy take it.
</p>
<p>
"I mustn't," he repeated, almost in tears. "What would father
say?"
</p>
<p>
"Say! He won't say nothing. He'll think you've done well."
</p>
<p>
But Caleb thought that perhaps his father would say
something, and when he remembered certain whippings he had
experienced in the past he had an uncomfortable sensation
about his back. "No, I mustn't," was all he could say, and
then the drovers with a laugh went on with their sheep.
</p>
<p>
When Isaac came home and the adventure was told to him he
laughed and said that he meant to sell Rough some day. He
used to say this occasionally to tease his wife because of
the dog's intense devotion to her; and she, being without a
sense of humour and half thinking that he meant it, would get
up out of her seat and solemnly declare that if he ever sold
Rough she would never again go out to the down to see what
the boys were up to.
</p>
<p>
One day she visited the boys when they had the flock near the
turnpike, and seating herself on the turf a few yards from
the road got out her work and began sewing. Presently they
spied a big, singular-looking man coming at a swinging pace
along the road. He was in shirt-sleeves, barefooted, and wore
a straw hat without a rim. Rough eyed the strange being's
approach with suspicion, and going to her mistress placed
herself at her side. The man came up and sat down at a
distance of three or four yards from the group, and Rough,
looking dangerous, started up and put her forepaws on her
mistress's lap and began uttering a low growl.
</p>
<p>
"Will that dog bite, missus?" said the man.
</p>
<p>
"Maybe he will," said she. "I won't answer for he if you come
any nearer."
</p>
<p>
The two boys had been occupied cutting a faggot from a
furze-bush with a bill-hook, and now held a whispered
consultation as to what they would do if the man tried to
"hurt mother," and agreed that as soon as Rough had got her
teeth in his leg they would attack him about the head with
the bill-hook. They were not required to go into action; the
stranger could not long endure Rough's savage aspect, and
very soon he got up and resumed his travels.
</p>
<p>
The shepherd remembered another curious incident in Rough's
career. At one time when she had a litter of pups at home she
was yet compelled to be a great part of the day with the
flock of ewes as they could not do without her. The boys just
then were bringing up a motherless lamb by hand and they
would put it with the sheep, and to feed it during the day
were obliged to catch a ewe with milk. The lamb trotted at
Caleb's heels like a dog, and one day when it was hungry and
crying to be fed, when Rough happened to be sitting on her
haunches close by, it occurred to him that Rough's milk might
serve as well as a sheep's. The lamb was put to her and took
very kindly to its canine foster-mother, wriggling its tail
and pushing vigorously with its nose. Rough submitted
patiently to the trial, and the result was that the lamb
adopted the sheep-dog as its mother and sucked her milk
several times every day, to the great admiration of all who
witnessed it.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch06"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER VI
</h2>
<h3>
SHEPHERD ISAAC BAWCOMBE
</h3>
<blockquote>
A noble shepherd—A fighting village
blacksmith—Old Joe the collier—A story of his
strength—Donkeys poisoned by yew—The shepherd
without his sheep—How the shepherd killed a deer
</blockquote>
<p>
To me the most interesting of Caleb's old memories were those
relating to his father, partly on account of the man's fine
character, and partly because they went so far back,
beginning in the early years of the last century.
</p>
<p>
Altogether he must have been a very fine specimen of a man,
both physically and morally. In Caleb's mind he was
undoubtedly the first among men morally, but there were two
other men supposed to be his equals in bodily strength, one a
native of the village, the other a periodical visitor. The
first was Jarvis the blacksmith, a man of an immense chest
and big arms, one of Isaac's greatest friends, and very
good-tempered except when in his cups, for he did
occasionally get drunk, and then he quarrelled with anyone
and every one.
</p>
<p>
One afternoon he had made himself quite tipsy at the inn, and
when going home, swaying about and walking all over the road,
he all at once caught sight of the big shepherd coming
soberly on behind. No sooner did he see him than it occurred
to his wild and muddled mind that he had a quarrel with this
very man, Shepherd Isaac, a quarrel of so pressing a nature
that there was nothing to do but to fight it out there and
then. He planted himself before the shepherd and challenged
him to fight. Isaac smiled and said nothing.
</p>
<p>
"I'll fight thee about this," he repeated, and began tugging
at his coat, and after getting it off again made up to Isaac,
who still smiled and said no word. Then he pulled his
waistcoat off, and finally his shirt, and with nothing but
his boots and breeches on once more squared up to Isaac and
threw himself into his best fighting attitude.
</p>
<p>
"I doan't want to fight thee," said Isaac at length, "but I
be thinking 'twould be best to take thee home." And suddenly
dashing in he seized Jarvis round the waist with one arm,
grasped him round the legs with the other, and flung the big
man across his shoulder, and carried him off, struggling and
shouting, to his cottage. There at the door, pale and
distressed, stood the poor wife waiting for her lord, when
Isaac arrived, and going straight in dropped the smith down
on his own floor, and with the remark, "Here be your man,"
walked off to his cottage and his tea.
</p>
<p>
The other powerful man was Old Joe the collier, who
flourished and was known in every village in the Salisbury
Plain district during the first thirty-five years of the last
century. I first heard of this once famous man from Caleb,
whose boyish imagination had been affected by his gigantic
figure, mighty voice, and his wandering life over all that
wide world of Salisbury Plain. Afterwards when I became
acquainted with a good many old men, aged from 75 to 90 and
upwards, I found that Old Joe's memory is still green in a
good many villages of the district, from the upper waters of
the Avon to the borders of Dorset. But it is only these
ancients who knew him that keep it green; by and by when they
are gone Old Joe and his neddies will be remembered no more.
</p>
<p>
In those days—down to about 1840, it was customary to
burn peat in the cottages, the first cost of which was about
four and sixpence the wagon-load—as much as I should
require to keep me warm for a month in winter; but the cost
of its conveyance to the villages of the Plain was about five
to six shillings per load, as it came from a considerable
distance, mostly from the New Forest. How the labourers at
that time, when they were paid seven or eight shillings a
week, could afford to buy fuel at such prices to bake their
rye bread and keep the frost out of their bones is a marvel
to us. Isaac was a good deal better off than most of the
villagers in this respect, as his master—for he never
had but one—allowed him the use of a wagon and the
driver's services for the conveyance of one load of peat each
year. The wagon-load of peat and another of faggots lasted
him the year with the furze obtained from his "liberty" on
the down. Coal at that time was only used by the blacksmiths
in the villages, and was conveyed in sacks on ponies or
donkeys, and of those who were engaged in this business the
best known was Old Joe. He appeared periodically in the
villages with his eight donkeys, or neddies as he called
them, with jingling bells on their headstalls and their
burdens of two sacks of small coal on each. In stature he was
a giant of about six feet three, very broad-chested, and
invariably wore a broad-brimmed hat, a slate-coloured
smock-frock, and blue worsted stockings to his knees. He
walked behind the donkeys, a very long staff in his hand,
shouting at them from time to time, and occasionally swinging
his long staff and bringing it down on the back of a donkey
who was not keeping up the pace. In this way he wandered from
village to village from end to end of the Plain, getting rid
of his small coal and loading his animals with scrap iron
which the blacksmiths would keep for him, and as he continued
his rounds for nearly forty years he was a familiar figure to
every inhabitant throughout the district.
</p>
<p>
There are some stories still told of his great strength, one
of which is worth giving. He was a man of iron constitution
and gave himself a hard life, and he was hard on his neddies,
but he had to feed them well, and this he often contrived to
do at some one else's expense. One night at a village on the
Wylye it was discovered that he had put his eight donkeys in
a meadow in which the grass was just ripe for mowing. The
enraged farmer took them to the village pound and locked them
up, but in the morning the donkeys and Joe with them had
vanished and the whole village wondered how he had done it.
The stone wall of the pound was four feet and a half high and
the iron gate was locked, yet he had lifted the donkeys up
and put them over and had loaded them and gone before anyone
was up.
</p>
<p>
Once Joe met with a very great misfortune. He arrived late at
a village, and finding there was good feed in the churchyard
and that everybody was in bed, he put his donkeys in and
stretched himself out among the gravestones to sleep. He had
no nerves and no imagination; and was tired, and slept very
soundly until it was light and time to put his neddies out
before any person came by and discovered that he had been
making free with the rector's grass. Glancing round he could
see no donkeys, and only when he stood up he found they had
not made their escape but were there all about him, lying
among the gravestones, stone dead every one! He had forgotten
that a churchyard was a dangerous place to put hungry animals
in. They had browsed on the luxuriant yew that grew there,
and this was the result.
</p>
<p>
In time he recovered from his loss and replaced his dead
neddies with others, and continued for many years longer on
his rounds.
</p>
<p>
To return to Isaac Bawcombe. He was born, we have seen, in
1800, and began following a flock as a boy and continued as
shepherd on the same farm for a period of fifty-five years.
The care of sheep was the one all-absorbing occupation of his
life, and how much it was to him appears in this anecdote of
his state of mind when he was deprived of it for a time. The
flock was sold and Isaac was left without sheep, and with
little to do except to wait from Michaelmas to Candlemas,
when there would be sheep again at the farm. It was a long
time to Isaac, and he found his enforced holiday so tedious
that he made himself a nuisance to his wife in the house.
Forty times a day he would throw off his hat and sit down,
resolved to be happy at his own fireside, but after a few
minutes the desire to be up and doing would return, and up he
would get and out he would go again. One dark cloudy evening
a man from the farm put his head in at the door. "Isaac," he
said, "there be sheep for 'ee up't the farm—two hunderd
ewes and a hunderd more to come in dree days. Master, he sent
I to say you be wanted." And away the man went.
</p>
<p>
Isaac jumped up and hurried forth without taking his crook
from the corner and actually without putting on his hat! His
wife called out after him, and getting no response sent the
boy with his hat to overtake him. But the little fellow soon
returned with the hat—he could not overtake his father!
</p>
<p>
He was away three or four hours at the farm, then returned,
his hair very wet, his face beaming, and sat down with a
great sigh of pleasure. "Two hunderd ewes," he said, "and a
hunderd more to come—what d'you think of that?"
</p>
<p>
"Well, Isaac," said she, "I hope thee'll be happy now and let
I alone."
</p>
<p>
After all that had been told to me about the elder Bawcombe's
life and character, it came somewhat as a shock to learn that
at one period during his early manhood he had indulged in one
form of poaching—a sport which had a marvellous
fascination for the people of England in former times, but
was pretty well extinguished during the first quarter of the
last century. Deer he had taken; and the whole tale of the
deer-stealing, which was a common offence in that part of
Wiltshire down to about 1834, sounds strange at the present
day.
</p>
<p>
Large herds of deer were kept at that time at an estate a few
miles from Winterbourne Bishop, and it often happened that
many of the animals broke bounds and roamed singly and in
small bands over the hills. When deer were observed in the
open, certain of the villagers would settle on some plan of
action; watchers would be sent out not only to keep an eye on
the deer but on the keepers too. Much depended on the state
of the weather and the moon, as some light was necessary;
then, when the conditions were favourable and the keepers had
been watched to their cottages, the gang would go out for a
night's hunting. But it was a dangerous sport, as the keepers
also knew that deer were out of bounds, and they would form
some counter-plan, and one peculiarly nasty plan they had was
to go out about three or four o'clock in the morning and
secrete themselves somewhere close to the village to
intercept the poachers on their return.
</p>
<p>
Bawcombe, who never in his life associated with the village
idlers and frequenters of the alehouse, had no connexion with
these men. His expeditions were made alone on some dark,
unpromising night, when the regular poachers were in bed and
asleep. He would steal away after bedtime, or would go out
ostensibly to look after the sheep, and, if fortunate, would
return in the small hours with a deer on his back. Then,
helped by his mother, with whom he lived (for this was when
he was a young unmarried man, about 1820), he would quickly
skin and cut up the carcass, stow the meat away in some
secret place, and bury the head, hide, and offal deep in the
earth; and when morning came it would find Isaac out
following his flock as usual, with no trace of guilt or
fatigue in his rosy cheeks and clear, honest eyes.
</p>
<p>
This was a very astonishing story to hear from Caleb, but to
suspect him of inventing or of exaggerating was impossible to
anyone who knew him. And we have seen that Isaac Bawcombe was
an exceptional man—physically a kind of Alexander
Selkirk of the Wiltshire Downs. And he, moreover, had a dog
to help him—one as superior in speed and strength to
the ordinary sheep-dog as he himself was to the rack of his
fellow-men. It was only after much questioning on my part
that Caleb brought himself to tell me of these ancient
adventures, and finally to give a detailed account of how his
father came to take his first deer. It was in the depth of
winter—bitterly cold, with a strong north wind blowing
on the snow-covered downs—when one evening Isaac caught
sight of two deer out on his sheep-walk. In that part of
Wiltshire there is a famous monument of antiquity, a vast
mound-like wall, with a deep depression or fosse running at
its side. Now it happened that on the highest part of the
down, where the wall or mound was most exposed to the blast,
the snow had been blown clean off the top, and the deer were
feeding here on the short turf, keeping to the ridge, so
that, outlined against the sky, they had become visible to
Isaac at a great distance.
</p>
<p>
He saw and pondered. These deer, just now, while out of
bounds, were no man's property, and it would be no sin to
kill and eat one—if he could catch it!—and it was
a season of bitter want. For many many days he had eaten his
barley bread, and on some days barley-flour dumplings, and
had been content with this poor fare; but now the sight of
these animals made him crave for meat with an intolerable
craving, and he determined to do something to satisfy it.
</p>
<p>
He went home and had his poor supper, and when it was dark
set forth again with his dog. He found the deer still feeding
on the mound. Stealing softly along among the furze-bushes,
he got the black line of the mound against the starry sky,
and by and by, as he moved along, the black figures of the
deer, with their heads down, came into view. He then doubled
back and, proceeding some distance, got down into the fosse
and stole forward to them again under the wall. His idea was
that on taking alarm they would immediately make for the
forest which was their home, and would probably pass near
him. They did not hear him until he was within sixty yards,
and then bounded down from the wall, over the dyke, and away,
but in almost opposite directions—one alone making for
the forest; and on this one the dog was set. Out he shot like
an arrow from the bow, and after him ran Isaac "as he had
never runned afore in all his life." For a short space deer
and dog in hot pursuit were visible on the snow, then the
darkness swallowed them up as they rushed down the slope; but
in less than half a minute a sound came back to Isaac,
flying, too, down the incline—the long, wailing cry of
a deer in distress. The dog had seized his quarry by one of
the front legs, a little above the hoof, and held it fast,
and they were struggling on the snow when Isaac came up and
flung himself upon his victim, then thrust his knife through
its windpipe "to stop its noise." Having killed it, he threw
it on his back and went home, not by the turnpike, nor by any
road or path, but over fields and through copses until he got
to the back of his mother's cottage. There was no door on
that side, but there was a window, and when he had rapped at
it and his mother opened it, without speaking a word he
thrust the dead deer through, then made his way round to the
front.
</p>
<p>
That was how he killed his first deer. How the others were
taken I do not know; I wish I did, since this one exploit of
a Wiltshire shepherd has more interest for me than I find in
fifty narratives of elephants slaughtered wholesale with
explosive bullets, written for the delight and astonishment
of the reading public by our most glorious Nimrods.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch07"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER VII
</h2>
<h3>
THE DEER-STEALERS
</h3>
<blockquote>
Deer-stealing on Salisbury Plain—The head-keeper
Harbutt—Strange story of a baby—Found as a
surname—John Barter the village carpenter—How the
keeper was fooled—A poaching attack planned—The
fight—Head-keeper and carpenter—The carpenter
hides his son—The arrest—Barter's sons forsake
the village
</blockquote>
<p>
There were other memories of deer-taking handed down to Caleb
by his parents, and the one best worth preserving relates to
the head-keeper of the preserves, or chase, and to a great
fight in which he was engaged with two brothers of the girl
who was afterwards to be Isaac's wife.
</p>
<p>
Here it may be necessary to explain that formerly the owner
of Cranbourne Chase, at that time Lord Rivers, claimed the
deer and the right to preserve and hunt deer over a
considerable extent of country outside of his own lands. On
the Wiltshire side these rights extended from Cranbourne
Chase over the South Wiltshire Downs to Salisbury, and the
whole territory, about thirty miles broad, was divided into
beats or walks, six or eight in number, each beat provided
with a keeper's lodge. This state of things continued to the
year 1834, when the chase was "disfranchised" by Act of
Parliament.
</p>
<p>
The incident I am going to relate occurred about 1815 or
perhaps two or three years later. The border of one of the
deer walks was at a spot known as Three Downs Place, two
miles and a half from Winterbourne Bishop. Here in a hollow
of the downs there was an extensive wood, and just within the
wood a large stone house, said to be centuries old but long
pulled down, called Rollston House, in which the head-keeper
lived with two under-keepers. He had a wife but no children,
and was a middle-aged, thick-set, very dark man, powerful and
vigilant, a "tarrable" hater and persecutor of poachers,
feared and hated by them in turn, and his name was Harbutt.
</p>
<p>
It happened that one morning, when he had unbarred the front
door to go out, he found a great difficulty in opening it,
caused by a heavy object having been fastened to the
door-handle. It proved to be a basket or box, in which a
well-nourished, nice-looking boy baby was sleeping, well
wrapped up and covered with a cloth. On the cloth a scrap of
paper was pinned with the following lines written on it:
</p>
<p>
Take me in and treat me well,<br>
For in this house my father dwell.
</p>
<p>
Harbutt read the lines and didn't even smile at the grammar;
on the contrary, he appeared very much upset, and was still
standing holding the paper, staring stupidly at it, when his
wife came on the scene. "What be this?" she exclaimed, and
looked first at the paper, then at him, then at the rosy
child fast asleep in its cradle; and instantly, with a great
cry, she fell on it and snatched it up in her arms, and
holding it clasped to her bosom, began lavishing caresses and
endearing expressions on it, tears of rapture in her eyes!
Not one word of inquiry or bitter, jealous reproach—all
that part of her was swallowed up and annihilated in the joy
of a woman who had been denied a child of her own to love and
nourish and worship. And now one had come to her and it
mattered little how. Two or three days later the infant was
baptized at the village church with the quaint name of Moses
Found.
</p>
<p>
Caleb was a little surprised at my thinking it a laughable
name. It was to his mind a singularly appropriate one; he
assured me it was not the only case he knew of in which the
surname Found had been bestowed on a child of unknown
parentage, and he told me the story of one of the Founds who
had gone to Salisbury as a boy and worked and saved and
eventually become quite a prosperous and important person.
There was really nothing funny in it.
</p>
<p>
The story of Moses Found had been told him by his old mother;
she, he remarked significantly, had good cause to remember
it. She was herself a native of the village, born two or
three years later than the mysterious Moses; her father, John
Barter by name was a carpenter and lived in an old, thatched
house which still exists and is very familiar to me. He had
five sons; then, after an interval of some years, a daughter
was born, who in due time was to be Isaac's wife. When she
was a little girl her brothers were all grown up or on the
verge of manhood, and Moses, too, was a young man—"the
spit of his father" people said, meaning the
head-keeper—and he was now one of Harbutt's
under-keepers.
</p>
<p>
About this time some of the more ardent spirits in the
village, not satisfied with an occasional hunt when a deer
broke out and roamed over the downs, took to poaching them in
the woods. One night, a hunt having been arranged, one of the
most daring of the men secreted himself close to the keeper's
house, and having watched the keepers go in and the lights
put out, he actually succeeded in fastening up the doors from
the outside with screws and pieces of wood without creating
an alarm. He then met his confederates at an agreed spot and
the hunting began, during which one deer was chased to the
house and actually pulled down and killed on the lawn.
</p>
<p>
Meanwhile the inmates were in a state of great excitement;
the under-keepers feared that a force it would be dangerous
to oppose had taken possession of the woods, while Harbutt
raved and roared like a maddened wild beast in a cage, and
put forth all his strength to pull the doors open. Finally he
smashed a window and leaped out, gun in hand, and calling the
others to follow rushed into the wood. But he was too late;
the hunt was over and the poachers had made good their
escape, taking the carcasses of two or three deer they had
succeeded in killing.
</p>
<p>
The keeper was not to be fooled in the same way a second
time, and before very long he had his revenge. A fresh raid
was planned, and on this occasion two of the five brothers
were in it, and there were four more, the blacksmith of
Winterbourne Bishop, their best man, two famous shearers,
father and son, from a neighbouring village, and a young farm
labourer.
</p>
<p>
They knew very well that with the head-keeper in his present
frame of mind it was a risky affair, and they made a solemn
compact that if caught they would stand by one another to the
end. And caught they were, and on this occasion the keepers
were four.
</p>
<p>
At the very beginning the blacksmith, their ablest man and
virtual leader, was knocked down senseless with a blow on his
head with the butt end of a gun. Immediately on seeing this
the two famous shearers took to their heels and the young
labourer followed their example. The brothers were left but
refused to be taken, although Harbutt roared at them in his
bull's voice that he would shoot them unless they
surrendered. They made light of his threats and fought
against the four, and eventually were separated. By and by
the younger of the two was driven into a brambly thicket
where his opponents imagined that it would be impossible for
him to escape. But he was a youth of indomitable spirit,
strong and agile as a wild cat; and returning blow for blow
he succeeded in tearing himself from them, then after a
running fight through the darkest part of the wood for a
distance of two or three hundred yards they at length lost
him or gave him up and went back to assist Harbutt and Moses
against the other man. Left to himself he got out of the wood
and made his way back to the village. It was long past
midnight when he turned up at his father's cottage, a
pitiable object covered with mud and blood, hatless, his
clothes torn to shreds, his face and whole body covered with
bruises and bleeding wounds.
</p>
<p>
The old man was in a great state of distress about his other
son, and early in the morning went to examine the ground
where the fight had been. It was only too easily found; the
sod was trampled down and branches broken as though a score
of men had been engaged. Then he found his eldest son's cap,
and a little farther away a sleeve of his coat; shreds and
rags were numerous on the bramble bushes, and by and by he
came on a pool of blood. "They've kill 'n!" he cried in
despair, "they've killed my poor boy!" and straight to
Rollston House he went to inquire, and was met by Harbutt
himself, who came out limping, one boot on, the other foot
bound up with rags, one arm in a sling and a cloth tied round
his head. He was told that his son was alive and safe indoors
and that he would be taken to Salisbury later in the day.
"His clothes be all torn to pieces," added the keeper. "You
can just go home at once and git him others before the
constable comes to take him."
</p>
<p>
"You've tored them to pieces yourself and you can git him
others," retorted the old man in a rage.
</p>
<p>
"Very well," said the keeper. "But bide a moment—I've
something more to say to you. When your son comes out of jail
in a year or so you tell him from me that if he'll just step
up this way I'll give him five shillings and as much beer as
he likes to drink. I never see'd a better fighter!"
</p>
<p>
It was a great compliment to his son, but the old men was
troubled in his mind. "What dost mean, keeper, by a year or
so?" he asked.
</p>
<p>
"When I said that," returned the other, with a grin, "I was
just thinking what 'twould be he deserves to git."
</p>
<p>
"And you'd agot your deserts, by God," cried the angry
father, "if that boy of mine hadn't a-been left alone to
fight ye!"
</p>
<p>
Harbutt regarded him with a smile of gratified malice.
</p>
<p>
"You can go home now," he said. "If you'd see your son you'll
find'n in Salisbury jail. Maybe you'll be wanting new locks
on your doors; you can git they in Salisbury too—you've
no blacksmith in your village now. No, your boy weren't alone
and you know that damned well."
</p>
<p>
"I know naught about that," he returned, and started to walk
home with a heavy heart. Until now he had been clinging to
the hope that the other son had not been identified in the
dark wood. And now what could he do to save one of the two
from hateful imprisonment? The boy was not in a fit condition
to make his escape; he could hardly get across the room and
could not sit or lie down without groaning. He could only try
to hide him in the cottage and pray that they would not
discover him. The cottage was in the middle of the village
and had but little ground to it, but there was a small,
boarded-up cavity or cell at one end of an attic, and it
might be possible to save him by putting him in there. Here,
then, in a bed placed for him on the floor, his bruised son
was obliged to lie, in the close, dark hole, for some days.
</p>
<p>
One day, about a week later, when he was recovering from his
hurts, he crawled out of his box and climbed down the narrow
stairs to the ground floor to see the light and breathe a
better air for a short time, and while down he was tempted to
take a peep at the street through the small, latticed window.
But he quickly withdrew his head and by and by said to his
father, "I'm feared Moses has seen me. Just now when I was at
the window he came by and looked up and see'd me with my head
all tied up, and I'm feared he knew 'twas I."
</p>
<p>
After that they could only wait in fear and trembling, and on
the next day quite early there came a loud rap at the door,
and on its being opened by the old man the constable and two
keepers appeared standing before him.
</p>
<p>
"I've come to take your son," said the constable.
</p>
<p>
The old man stepped back without a word and took down his gun
from its place on the wall, then spoke: "It you've got a
search-warrant you may come in; if you haven't got 'n I'll
blow the brains out of the first man that puts a foot inside
my door."
</p>
<p>
They hesitated a few moments then silently withdrew. After
consulting together the constable went off to the nearest
magistrate, leaving the two keepers to keep watch on the
house: Moses Found was one of them. Later in the day the
constable returned armed with a warrant and was thereupon
admitted, with the result that the poor youth was soon
discovered in his hiding-place and carried off. And that was
the last he saw of his home, his young sister crying bitterly
and his old father white and trembling with grief and
impotent rage.
</p>
<p>
A month or two later the two brothers were tried and
sentenced each to six months' imprisonment. They never came
home. On their release they went to Woolwich, where men were
wanted and the pay was good. And by and by the accounts they
sent home induced first one then the other brother to go and
join them, and the poor old father, who had been very proud
of his five sons, was left alone with his young
daughter—Isaac's destined wife.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch08"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER VIII
</h2>
<h3>
SHEPHERDS AND POACHING
</h3>
<blockquote>
General remarks on poaching—Farmer, shepherd, and
dog—A sheep-dog that would not hunt—Taking a
partridge from a hawk—Old Gaarge and Young
Gaarge—Partridge-poaching—The shepherd robbed of
his rabbits—Wisdom of Shepherd
Gathergood—Hare-trapping on the down—Hare-taking
with a crook
</blockquote>
<p>
When Caleb was at length free from his father's tutelage, and
as an under-shepherd practically independent, he did not
follow Isaac's strict example with regard to wild animals,
good for the pot, which came by chance in his way; he even
allowed himself to go a little out of his way on occasion to
get them.
</p>
<p>
We know that about this matter the law of the land does not
square with the moral law as it is written in the heart of
the peasant. A wounded partridge or other bird which he finds
in his walks abroad or which comes by chance to him is his by
a natural right, and he will take and eat or dispose of it
without scruple. With rabbits he is very free—he
doesn't wait to find a distressed one with a stoat on its
track—stoats are not sufficiently abundant; and a hare,
too, may be picked up at any moment; only in this case he
must be very sure that no one is looking. Knowing the law,
and being perhaps a respectable, religious person, he is
anxious to abstain from all appearance of evil. This taking a
hare or rabbit or wounded partridge is in his mind a very
different thing from systematic poaching; but he is aware
that to the classes above him it is not so—the law has
made them one. It is a hard, arbitrary, unnatural law, made
by and for them, his betters, and outwardly he must conform
to it. Thus you will find the best of men among the shepherds
and labourers freely helping themselves to any wild creature
that falls in their way, yet sharing the game-preserver's
hatred of the real poacher. The village poacher as a rule is
an idle, dissolute fellow, and the sober, industrious,
righteous shepherd or ploughman or carter does not like to be
put on a level with such a person. But there is no escape
from the hard and fast rule in such things, and however open
and truthful he may be in everything else, in this one matter
he is obliged to practise a certain amount of deception. Here
is a case to serve as an illustration; I have only just heard
it, after putting together the material I had collected for
this chapter, in conversation with an old shepherd friend of
mine.
</p>
<p>
He is a fine old man who has followed a flock these fifty
years, and will, I have no doubt, carry his crook for yet
another ten. Not only is he a "good shepherd," in the sense
in which Caleb uses that phrase, with a more intimate
knowledge of sheep and all the ailments they are subject to
than I have found in any other, but he is also a truly
religious man, one that "walks with God." He told me this
story of a sheep-dog he owned when head-shepherd on a large
farm on the Dorsetshire border with a master whose chief
delight in life was in coursing hares. They abounded on his
land, and he naturally wanted the men employed on the farm to
regard them as sacred animals. One day he came out to the
shepherd to complain that some one had seen his dog hunting a
hare.
</p>
<p>
The shepherd indignantly asked who had said such a thing.
</p>
<p>
"Never mind about that," said the farmer. "Is it true?"
</p>
<p>
"It is a lie," said the shepherd. "My dog never hunts a hare
or anything else. 'Tis my belief the one that said that has
got a dog himself that hunts the hares and he wants to put
the blame on some one else."
</p>
<p>
"May be so," said the farmer, unconvinced.
</p>
<p>
Just then a hare made its appearance, coming across the field
directly towards them, and either because they never moved or
it did not smell them it came on and on, stopping at
intervals to sit for a minute or so on its haunches, then on
again until it was within forty yards of where they were
standing. The farmer watched it approach and at the same time
kept an eye on the dog sitting at their feet and watching the
hare too, very steadily. "Now, shepherd," said the farmer,
"don't you say one word to the dog and I'll see for myself."
Not a word did he say, and the hare came and sat for some
seconds near them, then limped away out of sight, and the dog
made not the slightest movement. "That's all right," said the
farmer, well pleased. "I know now 'twas a lie I heard about
your dog. I've seen for myself and I'll just keep a sharp eye
on the man that told me."
</p>
<p>
My comment on this story was that the farmer had displayed an
almost incredible ignorance of a sheepdog—and a
shepherd. "How would it have been if you had said, 'Catch
him, Bob,' or whatever his name was?" I asked.
</p>
<p>
He looked at me with a twinkle in his eye and replied, "I do
b'lieve he'd ha' got 'n, but he'd never move till I told 'n."
</p>
<p>
It comes to this: the shepherd refuses to believe that by
taking a hare he is robbing any man of his property, and if
he is obliged to tell a lie to save himself from the
consequences he does not consider that it is a lie.
</p>
<p>
When he understood that I was on his side in this question,
he told me about a good sheep-dog he once possessed which he
had to get rid of because he would not take a hare!
</p>
<p>
A dog when broken is made to distinguish between the things
he must and must not do. He is "feelingly persuaded" by kind
words and caresses in one case and hard words and hard blows
in the other. He learns that if he hunts hares and rabbits it
will be very bad for him, and in due time, after some
suffering, he is able to overcome this strongest instinct of
a dog. He acquires an artificial conscience. Then, when his
education is finished, he must be made to understand that it
is not quite finished after all—that he must partially
unlearn one of the saddest of the lessons instilled in him.
He must hunt a hare or rabbit when told by his master to do
so. It is a compact between man and dog. Thus, they have got
a law which the dog has sworn to obey; but the man who made
it is above the law and can when he thinks proper command his
servant to break it. The dog, as a rule, takes it all in very
readily and often allows himself more liberty than his master
gives him; the most highly accomplished animal is one that,
like my shepherd's dog in the former instance, will not stir
till he is told. In the other case the poor brute could not
rise to the position; it was too complex for him, and when
ordered to catch a rabbit he could only put his tail between
his legs and look in a puzzled way at his master. "Why do you
tell me to do a thing for which I shall be thrashed?"
</p>
<p>
It was only after Caleb had known me some time, when we were
fast friends, that he talked with perfect freedom of these
things and told me of his own small, illicit takings without
excuse or explanation.
</p>
<p>
One day he saw a sparrowhawk dash down upon a running
partridge and struggle with it on the ground. It was in a
grass field, divided from the one he was walking in by a
large, unkept hedge without a gap in it to let him through.
Presently the hawk rose up with the partridge still violently
struggling in its talons, and flew over the hedge to Caleb's
side, but was no sooner over than it came down again and the
struggle went on once more on the ground. On Caleb running to
the spot the hawk flew off, leaving his prey behind. He had
grasped it in its sides, driving his sharp claws well in, and
the partridge, though unable to fly, was still alive. The
shepherd killed it and put it in his pocket, and enjoyed it
very much when he came to eat it.
</p>
<p>
From this case, a most innocent form of poaching, he went on
to relate how he had once been able to deprive a cunning
poacher and bad man, a human sparrowhawk, of his quarry.
</p>
<p>
There were two persons in the village, father and son, he
very heartily detested, known respectively as Old Gaarge and
Young Gaarge, inveterate poachers both. They were worse than
the real reprobate who haunted the public-house and did no
work and was not ashamed of his evil ways, for these two were
hypocrites and were outwardly sober, righteous men, who kept
themselves a little apart from their neighbours and were very
severe in their condemnation of other people's faults.
</p>
<p>
One Sunday morning Caleb was on his way to his ewes folded at
a distance from the village, walking by a hedgerow at the
foot of the down, when he heard a shot fired some way ahead,
and after a minute or two a second shot. This greatly excited
his curiosity and caused him to keep a sharp look-out in the
direction the sounds had come from, and by and by he caught
sight of a man walking towards him. It was Old Gaarge in his
long smock-frock, proceeding in a leisurely way towards the
village, but catching sight of the shepherd he turned aside
through a gap in the hedge and went off in another direction
to avoid meeting him. No doubt, thought Caleb, he has got his
gun in two pieces hidden under his smock. He went on until he
came to a small field of oats which had grown badly and had
only been half reaped, and here he discovered that Old Gaarge
had been lying in hiding to shoot at the partridges that came
to feed. He had been screened from the sight of the birds by
a couple of hurdles and some straw, and there were feathers
of the birds he had shot scattered about. He had finished his
Sunday morning's sport and was going back, a little too late
on this occasion as it turned out.
</p>
<p>
Caleb went on to his flock, but before getting to it his dog
discovered a dead partridge in the hedge; it had flown that
far and then dropped, and there was fresh blood on its
feathers. He put it in his pocket and carried it about most
of the day while with his sheep on the down. Late in the
afternoon he spied two magpies pecking at something out in
the middle of a field and went to see what they had found. It
was a second partridge which Old Gaarge had shot in the
morning and had lost, the bird having flown to some distance
before dropping. The magpies had probably found it already
dead, as it was cold; they had begun tearing the skin at the
neck and had opened it down to the breast-bone. Caleb took
this bird, too, and by and by, sitting down to examine it, he
thought he would try to mend the torn skin with the needle
and thread he always carried inside his cap. He succeeded in
stitching it neatly up, and putting back the feathers in
their place the rent was quite concealed. That evening he
took the two birds to a man in the village who made a
livelihood by collecting bones, rags, and things of that
kind; the man took the birds in his hand, held them up, felt
their weight, examined them carefully, and pronounced them to
be two good, fat birds, and agreed to pay two shillings for
them.
</p>
<p>
Such a man may be found in most villages; he calls himself a
"general dealer," and keeps a trap and pony—in some
cases he keeps the ale-house—and is a useful member of
the small, rural community—a sort of human
carrion-crow.
</p>
<p>
The two shillings were very welcome, but more than the money
was the pleasing thought that he had got the bird shot by the
hypocritical old poacher for his own profit. Caleb had good
cause to hate him. He, Caleb, was one of the shepherds who
had his master's permission to take rabbits on the land, and
having found his snares broken on many occasions he came to
the conclusion that they were visited in the night time by
some very cunning person who kept a watch on his movements.
One evening he set five snares in a turnip field and went
just before daylight next morning in a dense fog to visit
them. Every one was broken! He had just started on his way
back, feeling angry and much puzzled at such a thing, when
the fog all at once passed away and revealed the figures of
two men walking hurriedly off over the down. They were at a
considerable distance, but the light was now strong enough to
enable him to identify Old Gaarge and Young Gaarge. In a few
moments they vanished over the brow. Caleb was mad at being
deprived of his rabbits in this mean way, but pleased at the
same time in having discovered who the culprits were; but
what to do about it he did not know.
</p>
<p>
On the following day he was with his flock on the down and
found himself near another shepherd, also with his sheep, one
he knew very well, a quiet but knowing old man named Joseph
Gathergood. He was known to be a skilful rabbit-catcher, and
Caleb thought he would go over to him and tell him about how
he was being tricked by the two Gaarges and ask him what to
do in the matter.
</p>
<p>
The old man was very friendly and at once told him what to
do. "Don't you set no more snares by the hedges and in the
turmots," he said. "Set them out on the open down where no
one would go after rabbits and they'll not find the snares."
And this was how it had to be done. First he was to scrape
the ground with the heel of his boot until the fresh earth
could be seen through the broken turf; then he was to
sprinkle a little rabbit scent on the scraped spot, and plant
his snare. The scent and smell of the fresh earth combined
would draw the rabbits to the spot; they would go there to
scratch and would inevitably get caught if the snare was
properly placed.
</p>
<p>
Caleb tried this plan with one snare, and on the following
morning found that he had a rabbit. He set it again that
evening, then again, until he had caught five rabbits on five
consecutive nights, all with the same snare. That convinced
him that he had been taught a valuable lesson and that old
Gathergood was a very wise man about rabbits; and he was very
happy to think that he had got the better of his two sneaking
enemies.
</p>
<p>
But Shepherd Gathergood was just as wise about hares, and, as
in the other case, he took them out on the down in the most
open places. His success was due to his knowledge of the
hare's taste for blackthorn twigs. He would take a good,
strong blackthorn stem or shoot with twigs on it, and stick
it firmly down in the middle of a large grass field or on the
open down, and place the steel trap tied to the stick at a
distance of a foot or so from it, the trap concealed under
grass or moss and dead leaves. The smell of the blackthorn
would draw the hare to the spot, and he would move round and
round nibbling the twigs until caught.
</p>
<p>
Caleb never tried this plan, but was convinced that
Gathergood was right about it.
</p>
<p>
He told me of another shepherd who was clever at taking hares
in another way, and who was often chaffed by his
acquaintances on account of the extraordinary length of his
shepherd's crook. It was like a lance or pole, being twice
the usual length. But he had a use for it. This shepherd used
to make hares' forms on the downs in all suitable places,
forming them so cunningly that no one seeing them by chance
would have believed they were the work of human hands. The
hares certainly made use of them. When out with his flock he
would visit these forms, walking quietly past them at a
distance of twenty to thirty feet, his dog following at his
heels. On catching sight of a hare crouching in a form he
would drop a word, and the dog would instantly stand still
and remain fixed and motionless, while the shepherd went on
but in a circle so as gradually to approach the form.
Meanwhile the hare would keep his eyes fixed on the dog,
paying no attention to the man, until by and by the long
staff would be swung round and a blow descend on the poor,
silly head from the opposite side, and if the blow was not
powerful enough to stun or disable the hare, the dog would
have it before it got many yards from the cosy nest prepared
for its destruction.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch09"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER IX
</h2>
<h3>
THE SHEPHERD ON FOXES
</h3>
<blockquote>
A fox-trapping shepherd—Gamekeepers and foxes—Fox
and stoat—A gamekeeper off his guard—Pheasants
and foxes—Caleb kills a fox—A fox-hunting
sheep-dog—Two varieties of foxes—Rabbits playing
with little foxes—How to expel foxes—A playful
spirit in the fox—Fox-hunting a danger to sheep
</blockquote>
<p>
Caleb related that his friend Shepherd Gathergood was a great
fox-killer and, as with hares, he took them in a way of his
own. He said that the fox will always go to a heap of ashes
in any open place, and his plan was to place a steel trap
concealed among the ashes, made fast to a stick about three
feet high, firmly planted in the middle of the heap, with a
piece of strong-smelling cheese tied to the top. The two
attractions of an ash-heap and the smell of strong cheese was
more than any fox could resist. When he caught a fox he
killed and buried it on the down and said "nothing to nobody"
about it. He killed them to protect himself from their
depredations; foxes, like Old Gaarge and his son in Caleb's
case, went round at night to rob him of the rabbits he took
in his snares.
</p>
<p>
Caleb never blamed him for this; on the contrary, he greatly
admired him for his courage, seeing that if it had been found
out he would have been a marked man. It was perhaps
intelligence or cunning rather than courage; he did not
believe that he would be found out, and he never was; he told
Caleb of these things because he was sure of his man. Those
who were interested in the hunt never suspected him, and as
to gamekeepers, they hardly counted. He was helping them; no
one hates a fox more than they do. The farmer gets
compensation for damage, and the hen-wife is paid for her
stolen chickens by the hunt, The keeper is required to look
after the game, and at the same time to spare his chief
enemy, the fox. Indeed, the keeper's state of mind with
regard to foxes has always been a source of amusement to me,
and by long practice I am able to talk to him on that
delicate subject in a way to make him uncomfortable and
self-contradictory. There are various, quite innocent
questions which the student of wild life may put to a keeper
about foxes which have a disturbing effect on his brain. How
to expel foxes from a covert, for example; and here is
another: Is it true that the fox listens for the distressed
cries of a rabbit pursued by a stoat and that he will deprive
the stoat of his captive? Perhaps; Yes; No, I don't think so,
because one hunts by night, the other by day, he will answer,
but you see that the question troubles him. One keeper, off
his guard, promptly answered, "I've no doubt of it; I can
always bring a fox to me by imitating the cry of a rabbit
hunted by a stoat." But he did not say what his object was in
attracting the fox.
</p>
<p>
I say that the keeper was off his guard in this instance,
because the fiction that foxes were preserved on the estate
was kept up, though as a fact they were systematically
destroyed by the keepers. As the pheasant-breeding craze
appears to increase rather than diminish, notwithstanding the
disastrous effect it has had in alienating the people from
their lords and masters, the conflict of interest between
fox-hunter and pheasant-breeder will tend to become more and
more acute, and the probable end will be that fox-hunting
will have to go. A melancholy outlook to those who love the
country and old country sports, and who do not regard
pheasant-shooting as now followed as sport at all. It is a
delusion of the landlords that the country people think most
highly of the great pheasant-preserver who has two or three
big shoots in a season, during which vast numbers of birds
are slaughtered—every bird "costing a guinea," as the
saying is. It brings money into the country, he or his
apologist tells you, and provides employment for the village
poor in October and November, when there is little doing. He
does not know the truth of the matter. A certain number of
the poorer people of the village are employed as beaters for
the big shoots at a shilling a day or so, and occasionally a
labourer, going to or from his work, finds a pheasant's nest
and informs the keeper and receives some slight reward. If he
"keeps his eyes open" and shows himself anxious at all times
to serve the keeper he will sometimes get a rabbit for his
Sunday dinner.
</p>
<p>
This is not a sufficient return for the freedom to walk on
the land and in woods, which the villager possessed formerly,
even in his worst days of his oppression, a liberty which has
now been taken from him. The keeper is there now to prevent
him; he was there before, and from of old, but the pheasant
was not yet a sacred bird, and it didn't matter that a man
walked on the turf or picked up a few fallen sticks in a
wood. The keeper is there to tell him to keep to the road and
sometimes to ask him, even when he is on the road, what is he
looking over the hedge for. He slinks obediently away; he is
only a poor labourer with his living to get, and he cannot
afford to offend the man who stands between him and the lord
and the lord's tenant. And he is inarticulate; but the
insolence and injustice rankle in his heart, for he is not
altogether a helot in soul; and the result is that the
sedition-mongers, the Socialists, the furious denouncers of
all landlords, who are now quartering the country, and whose
vans I meet in the remotest villages, are listened to, and
their words—wild and whirling words they may
be—are sinking into the hearts of the agricultural
labourers of the new generation.
</p>
<p>
To return to foxes and gamekeepers. There are other estates
where the fiction of fox-preserving is kept up no longer,
where it is notorious that the landlord is devoted
exclusively to the gun and to pheasant-breeding. On one of
the big estates I am familiar with in Wiltshire the keepers
openly say they will not suffer a fox, and every villager
knows it and will give information of a fox to the keepers,
and looks to be rewarded with a rabbit. All this is
undoubtedly known to the lord of the manor; his servants are
only carrying out his own wishes, although he still
subscribes to the hunt and occasionally attends the meet. The
entire hunt may unite in cursing him, but they must do so
below their breath; it would have a disastrous effect to
spread it abroad that he is a persecutor of foxes.
</p>
<p>
Caleb disliked foxes, too, but not to the extent of killing
them. He did once actually kill one, when a young
under-shepherd, but it was accident rather than intention.
</p>
<p>
One day he found a small gap in a hedge, which had been made
or was being used by a hare, and, thinking to take it, he set
a trap at the spot, tying it securely to a root and covering
it over with dead leaves. On going to the place the next
morning he could see nothing until his feet were on the very
edge of the ditch, when with startling suddenness a big dog
fox sprang up at him with a savage snarl. It was caught by a
hind-leg, and had been lying concealed among the dead leaves
close under the bank. Caleb, angered at finding a fox when he
had looked for a hare, and at the attack the creature had
made on him, dealt it a blow on the head with his heavy
stick—just one blow given on the impulse of the moment,
but it killed the fox! He felt very bad at what he had done
and began to think of consequences. He took it from the trap
and hid it away under the dead leaves beneath the hedge some
yards from the gap, and then went to his work. During the day
one of the farm hands went out to speak to him. He was a
small, quiet old man, a discreet friend, and Caleb confided
to him what he had done. "Leave it to me," said his old
friend, and went back to the farm. In the afternoon Caleb was
standing on the top of the down looking towards the village,
when he spied at a great distance the old man coming out to
the hills, and by and by he could make out that he had a sack
on his back and a spade in his hand. When half-way up the
side of the hill he put his burden down and set to work
digging a deep pit. Into this he put the dead fox, and threw
in and trod down the earth, then carefully put back the turf
in its place, then, his task done, shouldered the spade and
departed. Caleb felt greatly relieved, for now the fox was
buried out on the downs, and no one would ever know that he
had wickedly killed it.
</p>
<p>
Subsequently he had other foxes caught in traps set for
hares, but was always able to release them. About one he had
the following story. The dog he had at that time, named Monk,
hated foxes as Jack hated adders, and would hunt them
savagely whenever he got a chance. One morning Caleb visited
a trap he had set in a gap in a hedge and found a fox in it.
The fox jumped up, snarling and displaying his teeth, ready
to fight for dear life, and it was hard to restrain Monk from
flying at him. So excited was he that only when his master
threatened him with his crook did he draw back and, sitting
on his haunches, left him to deal with the difficult business
in his own way. The difficulty was to open the steel trap
without putting himself in the way of a bite from those
"tarrable sharp teeth." After a good deal of manoeuvring he
managed to set the butt end of his crook on the handle of the
gin, and forcing it down until the iron teeth relaxed their
grip, the fox pulled his foot out, and darting away along the
hedge side vanished into the adjoining copse. Away went Monk
after him, in spite of his master's angry commands to him to
come back, and fox and dog disappeared almost together among
the trees. Sounds of yelping and of crashing through the
undergrowth came back fainter and fainter, and then there was
silence. Caleb waited at the spot full twenty minutes before
the disobedient dog came back, looking very pleased. He had
probably succeeded in overtaking and killing his enemy.
</p>
<p>
About that same Monk a sad story will have to be told in
another chapter.
</p>
<p>
When speaking of foxes Caleb always maintained that in his
part of the country there were two sorts: one small and very
red, the larger one of a lighter colour with some grey in it.
And it is possible that the hill foxes differed somewhat in
size and colour from those of the lower country. He related
that one year two vixens littered at one spot, a deep bottom
among the downs, so near together that when the cubs were big
enough to come out they mixed and played in company; the
vixens happened to be of the different sorts, and the
difference in colour appeared in the little ones as well.
</p>
<p>
Caleb was so taken with the pretty sight of all these little
foxes, neighbours and playmates, that he went evening after
evening to sit for an hour or longer watching them. One thing
he witnessed which will perhaps be disbelieved by those who
have not closely observed animals for themselves, and who
still hold to the fable that all wild creatures are born with
an inherited and instinctive knowledge and dread of their
enemies. Rabbits swarmed at that spot, and he observed that
when the old foxes were not about the young, half-grown
rabbits would freely mix and play with the little foxes. He
was so surprised at this, never having heard of such a thing,
that he told his master of it, and the farmer went with him
on a moonlight night and the two sat for a long time
together, and saw rabbits and foxes playing, pursuing one
another round and round, the rabbits when pursued often
turning very suddenly and jumping clean over their pursuer.
</p>
<p>
The rabbits at this place belonged to the tenant, and the
farmer, after enjoying the sight of the little ones playing
together, determined to get rid of the foxes in the usual way
by exploding a small quantity of gunpowder in the burrows.
Four old foxes with nine cubs were too many for him to have.
The powder was duly burned, and the very next day the foxes
had vanished.
</p>
<p>
In Berkshire I once met with that rare being, an intelligent
gamekeeper who took an interest in wild animals and knew from
observation a great deal about their habits. During an
after-supper talk, kept up till past midnight, we discussed
the subject of strange, erratic actions in animals, which in
some cases appear contrary to their own natures. He gave an
instance of such behaviour in a fox that had its earth at a
spot on the border of a wood where rabbits were abundant. One
evening he was at this spot, standing among the trees and
watching a number of rabbits feeding and gambolling on the
green turf, when the fox came trotting by and the rabbits
paid no attention. Suddenly he stopped and made a dart at a
rabbit; the rabbit ran from him a distance of twenty to
thirty yards, then suddenly turning round went for the fox
and chased it back some distance, after which the fox again
chased the rabbit, and so they went on, turn and turn about,
half a dozen times. It was evident, he said, that the fox had
no wish to catch and kill a rabbit, that it was nothing but
play on his part, and that the rabbits responded in the same
spirit, knowing that there was nothing to fear.
</p>
<p>
Another instance of this playful spirit of the fox with an
enemy, which I heard recently, is of a gentleman who was out
with his dog, a fox-terrier, for an evening walk in some
woods near his house. On his way back he discovered on coming
out of the woods that a fox was following him, at a distance
of about forty yards. When he stood still the fox sat down
and watched the dog. The dog appeared indifferent to its
presence until his master ordered him to go for the fox,
whereupon he charged him and drove him back to the edge of
the wood, but at that point the fox turned and chased the dog
right back to its master, then once more sat down and
appeared very much at his ease. Again the dog was encouraged
to go for him and hunted him again back to the wood, and was
then in turn chased back to its master, After several
repetitions of this performance, the gentleman went home, the
fox still following, and on going in closed the gate behind
him, leaving the fox outside, sitting in the road as if
waiting for him to come out again to have some more fun.
</p>
<p>
This incident serves to remind me of an experience I had one
evening in King's Copse, an immense wood of oak and pine in
the New Forest near Exbury. It was growing dark when I heard
on or close to the ground, some twenty to thirty yards before
me, a low, wailing cry, resembling the hunger-cry of the
young, long-eared owl. I began cautiously advancing, trying
to see it, but as I advanced the cry receded, as if the bird
was flitting from me. Now, just after I had begun following
the sound, a fox uttered his sudden, startlingly loud scream
about forty yards away on my right hand, and the next moment
a second fox screamed on my left, and from that time I was
accompanied, or shadowed, by the two foxes, always keeping
abreast of me, always at the same distance, one screaming and
the other replying about every half-minute. The distressful
bird-sound ceased, and I turned and went off in another
direction, to get out of the wood on the side nearest the
place where I was staying, the foxes keeping with me until I
was out.
</p>
<p>
What moved them to act in such a way is a mystery, but it was
perhaps play to them.
</p>
<p>
Another curious instance of foxes playing was related to me
by a gentleman at the little village of Inkpen, near the
Beacon, in Berkshire. He told me that when it happened, a
good many years ago, he sent an account of it to the "Field."
His gamekeeper took him one day "to see a strange thing," to
a spot in the woods where a fox had a litter of four cubs,
near a long, smooth, green slope. A little distance from the
edge of the slope three round swedes were lying on the turf.
"How do you think these swedes came here?" said the keeper,
and then proceeded to say that the old fox must have brought
them there from the field a long distance away, for her cubs
to play with. He had watched them of an evening, and wanted
his master to come and see too. Accordingly they went in the
evening, and hiding themselves among the bushes near waited
till the young foxes came out and began rolling the swedes
about and jumping at and tumbling over them. By and by one
rolled down the slope, and the young foxes went after it all
the way down, and then, when they had worried it
sufficiently, they returned to the top and played with
another swede until that was rolled down, then with the third
one in the same way. Every morning, the keeper said, the
swedes were found back on top of the ground, and he had no
doubt that they were taken up by the old fox again and left
there for her cubs to play with.
</p>
<p>
Caleb was not so eager after rabbits as Shepherd Gathergood,
but he disliked the fox for another reason. He considered
that the hunted fox was a great danger to sheep when the ewes
were heavy with lambs and when the chase brought the animal
near if not right into the flock. He had one dreadful memory
of a hunted fox trying to lose itself in his flock of
heavy-sided ewes and the hounds following it and driving the
poor sheep mad with terror. The result was that a large
number of lambs were cast before their time and many others
were poor, sickly things; many of the sheep also suffered in
health. He had no extra money from the lambs that year. He
received but a shilling (half a crown is often paid now) for
every lamb above the number of ewes, and as a rule received
from three to six pounds a year from this source.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch10"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER X
</h2>
<h3>
BIRD LIFE ON THE DOWNS
</h3>
<blockquote>
Great bustard—Stone curlew—Big hawks—Former
abundance of the raven—Dogs fed on carrion—Ravens
fighting—Ravens' breeding-places in Wilts—Great
Ridge Wood ravens—Field-fare breeding in
Wilts—Pewit—Mistle-thrush—Magpie and
turtledove—Gamekeepers and magpies—Rooks and
farmers—Starling, the shepherd's favourite
bird—Sparrowhawk and "brown thrush"
</blockquote>
<p>
Wiltshire, like other places in England, has long been
deprived of its most interesting birds—the species that
were best worth preserving. Its great bustard, once our
greatest bird—even greater than the golden and sea
eagles and the "giant crane" with its "trumpet sound" once
heard in the land—is now but a memory. Or a place name:
Bustard Inn, no longer an inn, is well known to the many
thousands who now go to the mimic wars on Salisbury Plain;
and there is a Trappist monastery in a village on the
southernmost border of the county, which was once called, and
is still known to old men as, "Bustard Farm." All that Caleb
Bawcombe knew of this grandest bird is what his father had
told him; and Isaac knew of it only from hearsay, although it
was still met with in South Wilts when he was a young man.
</p>
<p>
The stone curlew, our little bustard with the long wings,
big, yellow eyes, and wild voice, still frequents the
uncultivated downs, unhappily in diminishing numbers. For the
private collector's desire to possess British-taken birds'
eggs does not diminish; I doubt if more than one clutch in
ten escapes the searching eyes of the poor shepherds and
labourers who are hired to supply the cabinets. One pair
haunted a flinty spot at Winterbourne Bishop until a year or
two ago; at other points a few miles away I watched other
pairs during the summer of 1909, but in every instance their
eggs were taken.
</p>
<p>
The larger hawks and the raven, which bred in all the woods
and forests of Wiltshire, have, of course, been extirpated by
the gamekeepers. The biggest forest in the county now affords
no refuge to any hawk above the size of a kestrel. Savernake
is extensive enough, one would imagine, for condors to hide
in, but it is not so. A few years ago a buzzard made its
appearance there—just a common buzzard, and the entire
surrounding population went mad with excitement about it, and
every man who possessed a gun flew to the forest to join in
the hunt until the wretched bird, after being blazed at for
two or three days, was brought down. I heard of another case
at Fonthill Abbey. Nobody could say what this wandering hawk
was—it was very big, blue above with a white breast
barred with black—a "tarrable" fierce-looking bird with
fierce, yellow eyes. All the gamekeepers and several other
men with guns were in hot pursuit of it for several days,
until some one fatally wounded it, but it could not be found
where it was supposed to have fallen. A fortnight later its
carcass was discovered by an old shepherd, who told me the
story. It was not in a fit state to be preserved, but he
described it to me, and I have no doubt that it was a
goshawk.
</p>
<p>
The raven survived longer, and the Shepherd Bawcombe talks
about its abundance when he was a boy, seventy or more years
ago. His way of accounting for its numbers at that time and
its subsequent, somewhat rapid disappearance greatly
interested me.
</p>
<p>
We have seen his account of deer-stealing, by the villagers
in those brave, old, starvation days when Lord Rivers owned
the deer and hunting rights over a large part of Wiltshire,
extending from Cranborne Chase to Salisbury, and when even so
righteous a man as Isaac Bawcombe was tempted by hunger to
take an occasional deer, discovered out of bounds. At that
time, Caleb said, a good many dogs used for hunting the deer
were kept a few miles from Winterbourne Bishop and were fed
by the keepers in a very primitive manner. Old, worn-out
horses were bought and slaughtered for the dogs. A horse
would be killed and stripped of his hide somewhere away in
the woods, and left for the hounds to batten on its flesh,
tearing at and fighting over it like so many jackals. When
only partially consumed the carcass would become putrid; then
another horse would be killed and skinned at another spot
perhaps a mile away, and the pack would start feeding afresh
there. The result of so much carrion lying about was that
ravens were attracted in numbers to the place and were so
numerous as to be seen in scores together. Later, when the
deer-hunting sport declined in the neighbourhood, and dogs
were no longer fed on carrion, the birds decreased year by
year, and when Caleb was a boy of nine or ten their former
great abundance was but a memory. But he remembers that they
were still fairly common, and he had much to say about the
old belief that the raven "smells death," and when seen
hovering over a flock, uttering its croak, it is a sure sign
that a sheep is in a bad way and will shortly die.
</p>
<p>
One of his recollections of the bird may be given here. It
was one of those things seen in boyhood which had very deeply
impressed him. One fine day he was on the down with an elder
brother, when they heard the familiar croak and spied three
birds at a distance engaged in a fight in the air. Two of the
birds were in pursuit of the third, and rose alternately to
rush upon and strike at their victim from above. They were
coming down from a considerable height, and at last were
directly over the boys, not more than forty or fifty feet
from the ground; and the youngsters were amazed at their
fury, the loud, rushing sound of their wings, as of a
torrent, and of their deep, hoarse croaks and savage, barking
cries. Then they began to rise again, the hunted bird trying
to keep above his enemies, they in their turn striving to
rise higher still so as to rush down upon him from overhead;
and in this way they towered higher and higher, their barking
cries coming fainter and fainter back to earth, until the
boys, not to lose sight of them, cast themselves down flat on
their backs, and, continuing to gaze up, saw them at last no
bigger than three "leetle blackbirds." Then they vanished;
but the boys, still lying on their backs, kept their eyes
fixed on the same spot, and by and by first one black speck
reappeared, then a second, and they soon saw that two birds
were swiftly coming down to earth. They fell swiftly and
silently, and finally pitched upon the down not more than a
couple of hundred yards from the boys. The hunted bird had
evidently succeeded in throwing them off and escaping.
Probably it was one of their own young, for the ravens' habit
is when their young are fully grown to hunt them out of the
neighbourhood, or, when they cannot drive them off, to kill
them.
</p>
<p>
There is no doubt that the carrion did attract ravens in
numbers to this part of Wiltshire, but it is a fact that up
to that date—about 1830—the bird had many
well-known, old breeding-places in the county. The Rev. A. C.
Smith, in his "Birds of Wiltshire," names twenty-three
breeding-places, no fewer than nine of them on Salisbury
Plain; but at the date of the publication of his work, 1887,
only three of all these nesting-places were still in use:
South Tidworth, Wilton Park, and Compton Park, Compton
Chamberlain. Doubtless there were other ancient
breeding-places which the author had not heard of: one was at
the Great Ridge Wood, overlooking the Wylye valley, where
ravens bred down to about thirty-five or forty years ago. I
have found many old men in that neighbourhood who remember
the birds, and they tell that the raven tree was a great oak
which was cut down about sixty years ago, after which the
birds built their nest in another tree not far away. A London
friend of mine, who was born in the neighbourhood of the
Great Ridge Wood, remembers the ravens as one of the common
sights of the place when he was a boy. He tells of an unlucky
farmer in those parts whose sheep fell sick and died in
numbers, year after year, bringing him down to the brink of
ruin, and how his old head-shepherd would say, solemnly
shaking his head, "'Tis not strange—master, he shot a
raven."
</p>
<p>
There was no ravens' breeding-place very near Winterbourne
Bishop. Caleb had "never heared tell of a nestie"; but he had
once seen the nest of another species which is supposed never
to breed in this country. He was a small boy at the time,
when one day an old shepherd of the place going out from the
village saw Caleb, and calling to him said, "You're the boy
that likes birds; if you'll come with me, I'll show 'ee what
no man ever seed afore"; and Caleb, fired with curiosity,
followed him away to a distance from home, out from the
downs, into the woods and to a place where he had never been,
where there were bracken and heath with birch and thorn-trees
scattered about. On cautiously approaching a clump of birches
they saw a big, thrush-like bird fly out of a large nest
about ten feet from the ground, and settle on a tree close
by, where it was joined by its mate. The old man pointed out
that it was a felt or fieldfare, a thrush nearly as big as
the mistle-thrush but different in colour, and he said that
it was a bird that came to England in flocks in winter from
no man knows where, far off in the north, and always went
away before breeding-time. This was the only felt he had ever
seen breeding in this country, and he "didn't believe that no
man had ever seed such a thing before." He would not climb
the tree to see the eggs, or even go very near it, for fear
of disturbing the birds.
</p>
<p>
This man, Caleb said, was a great one for birds: he knew them
all, but seldom said anything about them; he watched and
found out a good deal about them just for his private
pleasure.
</p>
<p>
The characteristic species of this part of the down country,
comprising the parish of Winterbourne Bishop, are the pewit,
magpie, turtledove, mistle-thrush, and starling. The pewit is
universal on the hills, but will inevitably be driven away
from all that portion of Salisbury Plain used for military
purposes. The mistle-thrush becomes common in summer after
its early breeding season is ended, when the birds in small
flocks resort to the downs, where they continue until cold
weather drives them away to the shelter of the wooded, low
country.
</p>
<p>
In this neighbourhood there are thickets of thorn, holly,
bramble, and birch growing over hundreds of acres of down,
and here the hill-magpie, as it is called, has its chief
breeding-ground, and is so common that you can always get a
sight of at least twenty birds in an afternoon's walk. Here,
too, is the metropolis of the turtledove, and the low sound
of its crooning is heard all day in summer, the other most
common sound being that of magpies—their subdued,
conversational chatter and their solo-singing, the chant or
call which a bird will go on repeating for a hundred times.
The wonder is how the doves succeed in such a place in
hatching any couple of chalk-white eggs, placed on a small
platform of sticks, or of rearing any pair of young,
conspicuous in their blue skins and bright yellow down!
</p>
<p>
The keepers tell me they get even with these kill-birds later
in the year, when they take to roosting in the woods, a mile
away in the valley. The birds are waited for at some point
where they are accustomed to slip in at dark, and one keeper
told me that on one evening alone assisted by a friend he had
succeeded in shooting thirty birds.
</p>
<p>
On Winterbourne Bishop Down and round the village the magpies
are not persecuted, probably because the gamekeepers, the
professional bird-killers, have lost heart in this place. It
is a curious and rather pretty story. There is no squire, as
we have seen; the farmers have the rabbits, and for game the
shooting is let, or to let, by some one who claims to be lord
of the manor, who lives at a distance or abroad. At all
events he is not known personally to the people, and all they
know about the overlordship is that, whereas in years gone by
every villager had certain rights in the down—to cut
furze and keep a cow, or pony, or donkey, or half a dozen
sheep or goats—now they have none; but how and why and
when these rights were lost nobody knows. Naturally there is
no sympathy between the villagers and the keepers sent from a
distance to protect the game, so that the shooting may be let
to some other stranger. On the contrary, they religiously
destroy every nest they can find, with the result that there
are too few birds for anyone to take the shooting, and it
remains year after year unlet.
</p>
<p>
This unsettled state of things is all to the advantage of the
black and white bird with the ornamental tail, and he
flourishes accordingly and builds his big, thorny nests in
the roadside trees about the village.
</p>
<p>
The one big bird on these downs, as in so many other places
in England, is the rook, and let us humbly thank the gods who
own this green earth and all the creatures which inhabit it
that they have in their goodness left us this one. For it is
something to have a rook, although he is not a great bird
compared with the great ones lost—bustard and kite and
raven and goshawk, and many others. His abundance on the
cultivated downs is rather strange when one remembers the
outcry made against him in some parts on account of his
injurious habits; but here it appears the sentiment in his
favour is just as strong in the farmer, or in a good many
farmers, as in the great landlord. The biggest rookery I know
on Salisbury Plain is at a farm-house where the farmer owns
the land himself and cultivates about nine hundred acres. One
would imagine that he would keep his rooks down in these days
when a boy cannot be hired to scare the birds from the crops.
</p>
<p>
One day, near West Knoyle, I came upon a vast company of
rooks busily engaged on a ploughed field where everything
short of placing a bird-scarer on the ground had been done to
keep the birds off. A score of rooks had been shot and
suspended to long sticks planted about the field, and there
were three formidable-looking men of straw and rags with hats
on their heads and wooden guns under their arms. But the
rooks were there all the same; I counted seven at one spot,
prodding the earth close to the feet of one of the
scarecrows. I went into the field to see what they were
doing, and found that it was sown with vetches, just
beginning to come up, and the birds were digging the seed up.
</p>
<p>
Three months later, near the same spot, on Mere Down, I found
these birds feasting on the corn, when it had been long cut
but could not be carried on account of the wet weather. It
was a large field of fifty to sixty acres, and as I walked by
it the birds came flying leisurely over my head to settle
with loud cawings on the stocks. It was a magnificent
sight—the great, blue-black bird-forms on the golden
wheat, an animated group of three or four to half a dozen on
every stock, while others walked about the ground to pick up
the scattered grain, and others were flying over them, for
just then the sun was shining on the field and beyond it the
sky was blue. Never had I witnessed birds so manifestly
rejoicing at their good fortune, with happy, loud caw-caw. Or
rather haw-haw! what a harvest, what abundance! was there
ever a more perfect August and September! Rain, rain, by
night and in the morning; then sun and wind to dry our
feathers and make us glad, but never enough to dry the corn
to enable them to carry it and build it up in stacks where it
would be so much harder to get at. Could anything be better!
</p>
<p>
But the commonest bird, the one which vastly outnumbers all
the others I have named together, is the starling. It was
Caleb Bawcombe's favourite bird, and I believe it is regarded
with peculiar affection by all shepherds on the downs on
account of its constant association with sheep in the
pasture. The dog, the sheep, and the crowd of
starlings—these are the lonely man's companions during
his long days on the hills from April or May to November. And
what a wise bird he is, and how well he knows his friends and
his enemies! There was nothing more beautiful to see, Caleb
would say, than the behaviour of a flock of starlings when a
hawk was about. If it was a kestrel they took little or no
notice of it, but if a sparrowhawk made its appearance,
instantly the crowd of birds could be seen flying at furious
speed towards the nearest flock of sheep, and down into the
flock they would fall like a shower of stones and instantly
disappear from sight. There they would remain on the ground,
among the legs of the grazing sheep, until the hawk had gone
on his way and passed out of sight.
</p>
<p>
The sparrowhawk's victims are mostly made among the young
birds that flock together in summer and live apart from the
adults during the summer months after the breeding season is
over.
</p>
<p>
When I find a dead starling on the downs ranged over by
sparrowhawks, it is almost always a young bird—a "brown
thrush" as it used to be called by the old naturalists. You
may know that the slayer was a sparrowhawk by the appearance
of the bird, its body untouched, but the flesh picked neatly
from the neck and the head gone. That was swallowed whole,
after the beak had been cut off. You will find the beak lying
by the side of the body. In summertime, when birds are most
abundant, after the breeding season, the sparrowhawk is a
fastidious feeder.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch11"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER XI
</h2>
<h3>
STARLINGS AND SHEEP-BELLS
</h3>
<blockquote>
Starlings' singing—Native and borrowed
sounds—Imitations of sheep-bells—The shepherd on
sheep-bells—The bells for pleasure, not use—A dog
in charge of the flock—Shepherd calling his
sheep—Richard Warner of Bath—Ploughmen singing to
their oxen in Cornwall—A shepherd's loud singing
</blockquote>
<p>
The subject of starlings associating with sheep has served to
remind me of something I have often thought when listening to
their music. It happens that I am writing this chapter in a
small village on Salisbury Plain, the time being
mid-September 1909, and that just outside my door there is a
group of old elder-bushes laden just now with clusters of
ripe berries on which the starlings come to feed, filling the
room all day with that never-ending medley of sounds which is
their song. They sing in this way not only when they
sing—that is to say, when they make a serious business
of it, standing motionless and a-shiver on the tiles, wings
drooping and open beak pointing upwards, but also when they
are feasting on fruit—singing and talking and
swallowing elderberries between whiles to wet their whistles.
If the weather is not too cold you will hear this music
daily, wet or dry, all the year round. We may say that of all
singing birds they are most vocal, yet have no set song. I
doubt if they have more than half a dozen to a dozen sounds
or notes which are the same in every individual and their
very own. One of them is a clear, soft, musical whistle,
slightly inflected; another a kissing sound, usually repeated
two or three times or oftener, a somewhat percussive smack;
still another, a sharp, prolonged hissing or sibilant but at
the same time metallic note, compared by some one to the
sound produced by milking a cow into a tin pail—a very
good description. There are other lesser notes: a musical,
thrush-like chirp, repeated slowly, and sometimes rapidly
till it runs to a bubbling sound; also there is a horny
sound, which is perhaps produced by striking upon the edges
of the lower mandible with those of the upper. But it is
quite unlike the loud, hard noise made by the stork; the poor
stork being a dumb bird has made a sort of policeman's rattle
of his huge beak. These sounds do not follow each other; they
come from time to time, the intervals being filled up with
others in such endless variety, each bird producing its own
notes, that one can but suppose that they are imitations. We
know, in fact, that the starling is our greatest mimic, and
that he often succeeds in recognizable reproductions of
single notes, of phrases, and occasionally of entire songs,
as, for instance, that of the blackbird. But in listening to
him we are conscious of his imitations; even when at his best
he amuses rather than delights—he is not like the
mocking-bird. His common starling pipe cannot produce sounds
of pure and beautiful quality, like the blackbird's
"oboe-voice," to quote Davidson's apt phrase: he emits this
song in a strangely subdued tone, producing the effect of a
blackbird heard singing at a considerable distance. And so
with innumerable other notes, calls, and songs—they are
often to their originals what a man's voice heard on a
telephone is to his natural voice. He succeeds best, as a
rule, in imitations of the coarser, metallic sounds, and as
his medley abounds in a variety of little, measured,
tinkling, and clinking notes, as of tappings on a metal
plate, it has struck me at times that these are probably
borrowed from the sheep-bells of which the bird hears so much
in his feeding-grounds. It is, however, not necessary to
suppose that every starling gets these sounds directly from
the bells; the birds undoubtedly mimic one another, as is the
case with mocking-birds, and the young might easily acquire
this part of their song language from the old birds without
visiting the flocks in the pastures.
</p>
<p>
The sheep-bell, in its half-muffled strokes, as of a small
hammer tapping on an iron or copper plate, is, one would
imagine, a sound well within the starling's range, easily
imitated, therefore specially attractive to him.
</p>
<p>
But—to pass to another subject—what does the
shepherd himself think or feel about it; and why does he have
bells on his sheep?
</p>
<p>
He thinks a great deal of his bells. He pipes not like the
shepherd of fable or of the pastoral poets, nor plays upon
any musical instrument, and seldom sings, or even
whistles—that sorry substitute for song; he loves music
nevertheless, and gets it in his sheep-bells; and he likes it
in quantity. "How many bells have you got on your
sheep—it sounds as if you had a great many?" I asked of
a shepherd the other day, feeding his flock near Old Sarum,
and he replied, "Just forty, and I wish there were eighty."
Twenty-five or thirty is a more usual number, but only
because of their cost, for the shepherd has very little money
for bells or anything else. Another told me that he had "only
thirty," but he intended getting more. The sound cheers him;
it is not exactly monotonous, owing to the bells being of
various sizes and also greatly varying in thickness, so that
they produce different tones, from the sharp tinkle-tinkle of
the smallest to the sonorous klonk-klonk of the big, copper
bell. Then, too, they are differently agitated, some quietly
when the sheep are grazing with heads down, others rapidly as
the animal walks or trots on; and there are little bursts or
peals when a sheep shakes its head, all together producing a
kind of rude harmony—a music which, like that of
bagpipes or of chiming church-bells, heard from a distance,
is akin to natural music and accords with rural scenes.
</p>
<p>
As to use, there is little or none. A shepherd will sometimes
say, when questioned on the subject, that the bells tell him
just where the flock is or in which direction they are
travelling; but he knows better. The one who is not afraid to
confess the simple truth of the matter to a stranger will
tell you that he does not need the bells to tell him where
the sheep are or in which direction they are grazing. His
eyes are good enough for that. The bells are for his solace
or pleasure alone. It may be that the sheep like the tinkling
too—it is his belief that they do like it. A shepherd
said to me a few days ago: "It is lonesome with the flock on
the downs; more so in cold, wet weather, when you perhaps
don't see a person all day—on some days not even at a
distance, much less to speak to. The bells keep us from
feeling it too much. We know what we have them for, and the
more we have the better we like it. They are company to us."
</p>
<p>
Even in fair weather he seldom has anyone to speak to. A
visit from an idle man who will sit down and have a pipe and
talk with him is a day to be long remembered and even to date
events from. "'Twas the month—May, June, or
October—when the stranger came out to the down and
talked to I."
</p>
<p>
One day, in September, when sauntering over Mere Down, one of
the most extensive and loneliest-looking sheep-walks in South
Wilts—a vast, elevated plain or table-land, a portion
of which is known as White Sheet Hill—I passed three
flocks of sheep, all with many bells, and noticed that each
flock produced a distinctly different sound or effect, owing
doubtless to a different number of big and little bells in
each; and it struck me that any shepherd on a dark night, or
if taken blindfolded over the downs, would be able to
identify his own flock by the sound. At the last of the three
flocks a curious thing occurred. There was no shepherd with
it or anywhere in sight, but a dog was in charge; I found him
lying apparently asleep in a hollow, by the side of a stick
and an old sack. I called to him, but instead of jumping up
and coming to me, as he would have done if his master had
been there, he only raised his head, looked at me, then put
his nose down on his paws again. I am on duty—in sole
charge—and you must not speak to me, was what he said.
After walking a little distance on, I spied the shepherd with
a second dog at his heels, coming over the down straight to
the flock, and I stayed to watch. When still over a hundred
yards from the hollow the dog flew ahead, and the other
jumping up ran to meet him, and they stood together, wagging
their tails as if conversing. When the shepherd had got up to
them he stood and began uttering a curious call, a somewhat
musical cry in two notes, and instantly the sheep, now at a
considerable distance, stopped feeding and turned, then all
together began running towards him, and when within thirty
yards stood still, massed together, and all gazing at him. He
then uttered a different call, and turning walked away, the
dogs keeping with him and the sheep closely following. It was
late in the day, and he was going to fold them down at the
foot of the slope in some fields half a mile away.
</p>
<p>
As the scene I had witnessed appeared unusual I related it to
the very next shepherd I talked with.
</p>
<p>
"Oh, there was nothing in that," he said. "Of course the dog
was behind the flock."
</p>
<p>
I said, "No, the peculiar thing was that both dogs were with
their master, and the flock followed."
</p>
<p>
"Well, my sheep would do the same," he returned. "That is,
they'll do it if they know there's something good for
them—something they like in the fold. They are very
knowing." And other shepherds to whom I related the incident
said pretty much the same, but they apparently did not quite
like to hear that any shepherd could control his sheep with
his voice alone; their way of receiving the story confirmed
me in the belief that I had witnessed something unusual.
</p>
<p>
Before concluding this short chapter I will leave the subject
of the Wiltshire shepherd and his sheep to quote a remarkable
passage about men singing to their cattle in Cornwall, from a
work on that county by Richard Warner of Bath, once a
well-known and prolific writer of topographical and other
books. They are little known now, I fancy, but he was great
in his day, which lasted from about the middle of the
eighteenth to about the middle of the nineteenth
century—at all events, he died in 1857, aged
ninety-four. But he was not great at first, and finding when
nearing middle age that he was not prospering, he took to the
Church and had several livings, some of them running
concurrently, as was the fashion in those dark days. His
topographical work included Walks in Wales, in Somerset, in
Devon, Walks in many places, usually taken in a stage-coach
or on horseback, containing nothing worth remembering except
perhaps the one passage I have mentioned, which is as
follows:—
</p>
<p>
"We had scarcely entered Cornwall before our attention was
agreeably arrested by a practice connected with the
agriculture of the people, which to us was entirely novel.
The farmers judiciously employ the fine oxen of the country
in ploughing, and other processes of husbandry, to which the
strength of this useful animal can be employed"—the
Rev. Richard Warner is tedious, but let us be patient and see
what follows—"to which the strength of this useful
animal can be employed; and while the hinds are thus driving
their patient slaves along the furrows, they continually
cheer them with conversation, denoting approbation and
pleasure. This encouragement is conveyed to them in a sort of
chaunt, of very agreeable modulation, which, floating through
the air from different distances, produces a striking effect
both on the ear and imagination. The notes are few and
simple, and when delivered by a clear, melodious voice, have
something expressive of that tenderness and affection which
man naturally entertains for the companions of his labours,
in a <i>pastoral state</i> of society, when, feeling more
forcibly his dependence upon domesticated animals for
support, he gladly reciprocates with them kindness and
protection for comfort and subsistence. This wild melody was
to me, I confess, peculiarly affecting. It seemed to draw
more closely the link of friendship between man and the
humbler tribes of <i>fellow mortals</i>. It solaced my heart
with the appearance of humanity, in a world of violence and
in times of universal hostile rage; and it gladdened my fancy
with the contemplation of those days of heavenly harmony,
promised in the predictions of eternal truth, when man, freed
at length from prejudice and passion, shall seek his
happiness in cultivating the mild, the benevolent, and the
merciful sensibilities of his nature; and when the animal
world, catching the virtues of its lord and master, shall
soften into gentleness and love; when the wolf"....
</p>
<p>
And so on, clause after clause, with others to be added,
until the whole sentence becomes as long as a fishing-rod.
But apart from the fiddlededee, is the thing he states
believable? It is a charming picture, and one would like to
know more about that "chaunt," that "wild melody." The
passage aroused my curiosity when in Cornwall, as it had
appeared to me that in no part of England are the domestic
animals so little considered by their masters. The R.S.P.C.A.
is practically unknown there, and when watching the doings of
shepherds or drovers with their sheep the question has
occurred to me, What would my Wiltshire shepherd friends say
of such a scene if they had witnessed it? There is nothing in
print which I can find to confirm Warner's observations, and
if you inquire of very old men who have been all their lives
on the soil they will tell you that there has never been such
a custom in their time, nor have they ever heard of it as
existing formerly. Warner's Tour through Cornwall is dated
1808.
</p>
<p>
I take it that he described a scene he actually witnessed,
and that he jumped to the conclusion that it was a common
custom for the ploughman to sing to his oxen. It is not
unusual to find a man anywhere singing to his oxen, or
horses, or sheep, if he has a voice and is fond of exercising
it. I remember that in a former book—"Nature in
Downland"—I described the sweet singing of a cow-boy
when tending his cows on a heath near Trotton, in West
Sussex; and here in Wiltshire it amused me to listen, at a
vast distance, to the robust singing of a shepherd while
following his flock on the great lonely downs above
Chitterne. He was a sort of Tamagno of the downs, with a
tremendous voice audible a mile away.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch12"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER XII
</h2>
<h3>
THE SHEPHERD AND THE BIBLE
</h3>
<blockquote>
Dan'l Burdon, the treasure-seeker—The shepherd's
feeling for the Bible—Effect of the pastoral
life—The shepherd's story of Isaac's boyhood—The
village on the Wylye
</blockquote>
<p>
One of the shepherd's early memories was of Dan'l Burdon, a
labourer on the farm where Isaac Bawcombe was head-shepherd.
He retained a vivid recollection of this person, who had a
profound gravity and was the most silent man in the parish.
He was always thinking about hidden treasure, and all his
spare time was spent in seeking for it. On a Sunday morning,
or in the evening after working hours, he would take a spade
or pick and go away over the hills on his endless search
after "something he could not find." He opened some of the
largest barrows, making trenches six to ten feet deep through
them, but found nothing to reward him. One day he took Caleb
with him, and they went to a part of the down where there
were certain depressions in the turf of a circular form and
six to seven feet in circumference. Burdon had observed these
basin-like depressions and had thought it possible they
marked the place where things of value had been buried in
long-past ages. To begin he cut the turf all round and
carefully removed it, then dug and found a thick layer of
flints. These removed, he came upon a deposit of ashes and
charred wood. And that was all. Burdon without a word set to
work to put it all back in its place again—ashes and
wood, and earth and flints—and having trod it firmly
down he carefully replaced the turf, then leaning on his
spade gazed silently at the spot for a space of several
minutes. At last he spoke. "Maybe, Caleb, you've beared tell
about what the Bible says of burnt sacrifice. Well now, I be
of opinion that it were here. They people the Bible says
about, they come up here to sacrifice on White Bustard Down,
and these be the places where they made their fires."
</p>
<p>
Then he shouldered his spade and started home, the boy
following. Caleb's comment was: "I didn't say nothing to un
because I were only a leetel boy and he were a old man; but I
knowed better than that all the time, because them people in
the Bible they was never in England at all, so how could they
sacrifice on White Bustard Down in Wiltsheer?"
</p>
<p>
It was no idle boast on his part. Caleb and his brothers had
been taught their letters when small, and the Bible was their
one book, which they read not only in the evenings at home
but out on the downs during the day when they were with the
flock. His extreme familiarity with the whole Scripture
narrative was a marvel to me; it was also strange,
considering how intelligent a man he was, that his lifelong
reading of that one book had made no change in his rude
"Wiltsheer" speech.
</p>
<p>
Apart from the feeling which old, religious country people,
who know nothing about the Higher Criticism, have for the
Bible, taken literally as the Word of God, there is that in
the old Scriptures which appeals in a special way to the
solitary man who feeds his flock on the downs. I remember
well in the days of my boyhood and youth, when living in a
purely pastoral country among a semi-civilized and very
simple people, how understandable and eloquent many of the
ancient stories were to me. The life, the outlook, the rude
customs, and the vivid faith in the Unseen, were much the
same in that different race in a far-distant age, in a remote
region of the earth, and in the people I mixed with in my own
home. That country has been changed now; it has been improved
and civilized and brought up to the European standard; I
remember it when it was as it had existed for upwards of two
centuries before it had caught the contagion. The people I
knew were the descendants of the Spanish colonists of the
seventeenth century, who had taken kindly to the life of the
plains, and had easily shed the traditions and ways of
thought of Europe and of towns. Their philosophy of life,
their ideals, their morality, were the result of the
conditions they existed in, and wholly unlike ours; and the
conditions were like those of the ancient people of which the
Bible tells us. Their very phraseology was strongly
reminiscent of that of the sacred writings, and their
character in the best specimens was like that of the men of
the far past who lived nearer to God, as we say, and
certainly nearer to nature than it is possible for us in this
artificial state. Among these sometimes grand old men who
were large landowners, rich in flocks and herds, these fine
old, dignified "natives," the substantial and leading men of
the district who could not spell their own names, there were
those who reminded you of Abraham and Isaac and Jacob and
Esau and Joseph and his brethren, and even of David the
passionate psalmist, with perhaps a guitar for a harp.
</p>
<p>
No doubt the Scripture lessons read in the thousand churches
on every Sunday of the year are practically meaningless to
the hearers. These old men, with their sheep and goats and
wives, and their talk about God, are altogether out of our
ways of thought, in fact as far from us—as incredible
or unimaginable, we may say—as the neolithic men or the
inhabitants of another planet. They are of the order of
mythical heroes and the giants of antiquity. To read about
them is an ancient custom, but we do not listen.
</p>
<p>
Even to myself the memories of my young days came to be
regarded as very little more than mere imaginations, and I
almost ceased to believe in them until, after years of mixing
with modern men, mostly in towns, I fell in with the downland
shepherds, and discovered that even here, in densely
populated and ultra-civilized England, something of the
ancient spirit had survived. In Caleb, and a dozen old men
more or less like him, I seemed to find myself among the
people of the past, and sometimes they were so much like some
of the remembered, old, sober, and slow-minded herders of the
plains that I could not help saying to myself, Why, how this
man reminds me of Tio Isidoro, or of Don Pascual of the
"Three Poplar Trees," or of Marcos who would always have
three black sheep in a flock. And just as they reminded me of
these men I had actually known, so did they bring back the
older men of the Bible history—Abraham and Jacob and
the rest.
</p>
<p>
The point here is that these old Bible stories have a reality
and significance for the shepherd of the down country which
they have lost for modern minds; that they recognize their
own spiritual lineaments in these antique portraits, and that
all these strange events might have happened a few years ago
and not far away.
</p>
<p>
One day I said to Caleb Bawcombe that his knowledge of the
Bible, especially of the old part, was greater than that of
the other shepherds I knew on the downs, and I would like to
hear why it was so. This led to the telling of a fresh story
about his father's boyhood, which he had heard in later years
from his mother. Isaac was an only child and not the son of a
shepherd; his father was a rather worthless if not a wholly
bad man; he was idle and dissolute, and being remarkably
dexterous with his fists he was persuaded by certain sporting
persons to make a business of fighting—quite a common
thing in those days. He wanted nothing better, and spent the
greater part of the time in wandering about the country; the
money he made was spent away from home, mostly in drink,
while his wife was left to keep herself and child in the best
way she could at home or in the fields. By and by a poor
stranger came to the village in search of work and was
engaged for very little pay by a small farmer, for the
stranger confessed that he was without experience of farm
work of any description. The cheapest lodging he could find
was in the poor woman's cottage, and then Isaac's mother, who
pitied him because he was so poor and a stranger alone in the
world, a very silent, melancholy man, formed the opinion that
he had belonged to another rank in life. His speech and hands
and personal habits betrayed it. Undoubtedly he was a
gentleman; and then from something in his manner, his voice,
and his words whenever he addressed her, and his attention to
religion, she further concluded that he had been in the
Church; that, owing to some trouble or disaster, he had
abandoned his place in the world to live away from all who
had known him, as a labourer.
</p>
<p>
One day he spoke to her about Isaac; he said he had been
observing him and thought it a great pity that such a fine,
intelligent boy should be allowed to grow up without learning
his letters. She agreed that it was, but what could she do?
The village school was kept by an old woman, and though she
taught the children very little it had to be paid for, and
she could not afford it. He then offered to teach Isaac
himself and she gladly consented, and from that day he taught
Isaac for a couple of hours every evening until the boy was
able to read very well, after which they read the Bible
through together, the poor man explaining everything,
especially the historical parts, so clearly and beautifully,
with such an intimate knowledge of the countries and peoples
and customs of the remote East, that it was all more
interesting than a fairy tale. Finally he gave his copy of
the Bible to Isaac, and told him to carry it in his pocket
every day when he went out on the downs, and when he sat down
to take it out and read in it. For by this time Isaac, who
was now ten years old, had been engaged as a shepherd-boy to
his great happiness, for to be a shepherd was his ambition.
</p>
<p>
Then one day the stranger rolled up his few belongings in a
bundle and put them on a stick which he placed on his
shoulder, said good-bye, and went away, never to return,
taking his sad secret with him.
</p>
<p>
Isaac followed the stranger's counsel, and when he had sons
of his own made them do as he had done from early boyhood.
Caleb had never gone with his flock on the down without the
book, and had never passed a day without reading a portion.
</p>
<p>
The incidents and observations gathered in many talks with
the old shepherd, which I have woven into the foregoing
chapters, relate mainly to the earlier part of his life, up
to the time when, a married man and father of three small
children, he migrated to Warminster. There he was in, to him,
a strange land, far away from friends and home and the old
familiar surroundings, amid new scenes and new people, But
the few years he spent at that place had furnished him with
many interesting memories, some of which will be narrated in
the following chapters.
</p>
<p>
I have told in the account of Winterbourne Bishop how I first
went to that village just to see his native place, and later
I visited Doveton for no other reason than that he had lived
there, to find it one of the most charming of the numerous
pretty villages in the vale. I looked for the cottage in
which he had lived and thought it as perfect a home as a
quiet, contemplative man who loved nature could have had: a
small, thatched cottage, very old looking, perhaps
inconvenient to live in, but situated in the prettiest spot,
away from other houses, near and within sight of the old
church with old elms and beech-trees growing close to it, and
the land about it green meadow. The clear river, fringed with
a luxuriant growth of sedges, flag, and reeds, was less than
a stone's-throw away.
</p>
<p>
So much did I like the vale of the Wylye when I grew to know
it well that I wish to describe it fully in the chapter that
follows.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch13"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER XIII
</h2>
<h3>
VALE OF THE WYLYE
</h3>
<blockquote>
Warminster—Vale of the Wylye—Counting the
villages—A lost church—Character of the
villages—Tytherington church—Story of the
dog—Lord Lovell—Monuments in
churches—Manor-houses—Knook—The
cottages—Yellow stonecrop—Cottage
gardens—Marigolds—Golden-rod—Wild flowers
of the water-side—Seeking for the characteristic
expression
</blockquote>
<p>
The prettily-named Wylye is a little river not above twenty
miles in length from its rise to Salisbury, where, after
mixing with the Nadder at Wilton, it joins the Avon. At or
near its source stands Warminster, a small, unimportant town
with a nobler-sounding name than any other in Wiltshire.
Trowbridge, Devizes, Marlborough, Salisbury, do not stir the
mind in the same degree; and as for Chippenham, Melksham,
Mere, Calne, and Corsham, these all are of no more account
than so many villages in comparison. Yet Warminster has no
associations—no place in our mental geography; at all
events one remembers nothing about it. Its name, which after
all may mean nothing more than the monastery on the
Were—one of the three streamlets which flow into the
Wylye at its source—is its only glory. It is not
surprising that Caleb Bawcombe invariably speaks of his
migration to, and of the time he passed at Warminster, when,
as a fact, he was not there at all, but at Doveton, a little
village on the Wylye a few miles below the town with the
great name.
</p>
<p>
It is a green valley—the greenness strikes one sharply
on account of the pale colour of the smooth, high downs on
either side—half a mile to a mile in width, its crystal
current showing like a bright serpent for a brief space in
the green, flat meadows, then vanishing again among the
trees. So many are the great shade trees, beeches and ashes
and elms, that from some points the valley has the appearance
of a continuous wood—a contiguity of shade. And the
wood hides the villages, at some points so effectually that
looking down from the hills you may not catch a glimpse of
one and imagine it to be a valley where no man dwells. As a
rule you do see something of human occupancy—the red or
yellow roofs of two or three cottages, a half-hidden grey
church tower, or column of blue smoke, but to see the
villages you must go down and look closely, and even so you
will find it difficult to count them all. I have tried, going
up and down the valley several times, walking or cycling, and
have never succeeded in getting the same number on two
occasions. There are certainly more then twenty, without
counting the hamlets, and the right number is probably
something between twenty-five and thirty, but I do not want
to find out by studying books and maps. I prefer to let the
matter remain unsettled so as to have the pleasure of
counting or trying to count them again at some future time.
But I doubt that I shall ever succeed. On one occasion I
caught sight of a quaint, pretty little church standing by
itself in the middle of a green meadow, where it looked very
solitary with no houses in sight and not even a cow grazing
near it. The river was between me and the church, so I went
up-stream, a mile and a half, to cross by the bridge, then
doubled back to look for the church, and couldn't find it!
Yet it was no illusory church; I have seen it again on two
occasions, but again from the other side of the river, and I
must certainly go back some day in search of that lost
church, where there may be effigies, brasses, sad, eloquent
inscriptions, and other memorials of ancient tragedies and
great families now extinct in the land.
</p>
<p>
This is perhaps one of the principal charms of the
Wylye—the sense of beautiful human things hidden from
sight among the masses of foliage. Yet another lies in the
character of the villages. Twenty-five or twenty-eight of
them in a space of twenty miles; yet the impression, left on
the mind is that these small centres of population are really
few and far between. For not only are they small, but of the
old, quiet, now almost obsolete type of village, so
unobtrusive as to affect the mind soothingly, like the sight
of trees and flowery banks and grazing cattle. The churches,
too, as is fit, are mostly small and ancient and beautiful,
half-hidden in their tree-shaded churchyards, rich in
associations which go back to a time when history fades into
myth and legend. Not all, however, are of this description; a
few are naked, dreary little buildings, and of these I will
mention one which, albeit ancient, has no monuments and no
burial-ground. This is the church of Tytherington, a small,
rustic village, which has for neighbours Codford St. Peter
one one side and Sutton Veny and Norton Bavant on the other.
To get into this church, where there was nothing but naked
walls to look at, I had to procure the key from the clerk, a
nearly blind old man of eighty. He told me that he was
shoemaker but could no longer see to make or mend shoes; that
as a boy he was a weak, sickly creature, and his father, a
farm bailiff, made him learn shoemaking because he was unfit
to work out of doors. "I remember this church," he said,
"when there was only one service each quarter," but, strange
to say, he forgot to tell me the story of the dog! "What,
didn't he tell you about the dog?" exclaimed everybody. There
was really nothing else to tell.
</p>
<p>
It happened about a hundred years ago that once, after the
quarterly service had been held, a dog was missed, a small
terrier owned by the young wife of a farmer of Tytherington
named Case. She was fond of her dog, and lamented its loss
for a little while, then forgot all about it. But after three
months, when the key was once more put into the rusty lock
and the door thrown open, there was the dog, a living
"skelington" it was said, dazed by the light of day, but
still able to walk! It was supposed that he had kept himself
alive by "licking the moisture from the walls." The walls,
they said, were dripping with wet and covered with a thick
growth of mould. I went back to interrogate the ancient
clerk, and he said that the dog died shortly after its
deliverance; Mrs. Case herself told him all about it. She was
an old woman then, but was always willing to relate the sad
story of her pet.
</p>
<p>
That picture of the starving dog coming out, a living
skeleton, from the wet, mouldy church, reminds us sharply of
the changed times we live in and of the days when the Church
was still sleeping very peacefully, not yet turning uneasily
in its bed before opening its eyes; and when a comfortable
rector of Codford thought it quite enough that the people of
Tytherington, a mile away, should have one service every
three months.
</p>
<p>
As a fact, the Tytherington dog interested me as much as the
story of the last Lord Lovell's self-incarceration in his own
house in the neighbouring little village of Upton Lovell. He
took refuge there from his enemies who were seeking his life,
and concealed himself so effectually that he was never seen
again. Centuries later, when excavations were made on the
site of the ruined mansion, a secret chamber was discovered,
containing a human skeleton seated in a chair at a table, on
which were books and papers crumbling into dust.
</p>
<p>
A volume might be filled with such strange and romantic
happenings in the little villages of the Wylye, and for the
natural man they have a lasting fascination; but they
invariably relate to great people of their day—warriors
and statesmen and landowners of old and noble lineage, the
smallest and meanest you will find being clothiers, or
merchants, who amassed large fortunes and built mansions for
themselves and almshouses for the aged poor, and, when dead,
had memorials placed to them in the churches. But of the
humble cottagers, the true people of the vale who were rooted
in the soil, and nourished and died like trees in the same
place—of these no memory exists. We only know that they
lived and laboured; that when they died, three or four a
year, three or four hundred in a century, they were buried in
the little shady churchyard, each with a green mound over him
to mark the spot. But in time these "mouldering heaps"
subsided, the bodies turned to dust, and another and yet
other generations were laid in the same place among the
forgotten dead, to be themselves in turn forgotten. Yet I
would rather know the histories of these humble, unremembered
lives than of the great ones of the vale who have left us a
memory.
</p>
<p>
It may be for this reason that I was little interested in the
manor-houses of the vale. They are plentiful enough, some
gone to decay or put to various uses; others still the homes
of luxury, beauty, culture: stately rooms, rich fabrics;
pictures, books, and manuscripts, gold and silver ware, china
and glass, expensive curios, suits of armour, ivory and
antlers, tiger-skins, stuffed goshawks and peacocks'
feathers. Houses, in some cases built centuries ago, standing
half-hidden in beautiful wooded grounds, isolated from the
village; and even as they thus stand apart, sacred from
intrusion, so the life that is in them does not mix with or
form part of the true native life. They are to the cottagers
of to-day what the Roman villas were to the native population
of some eighteen centuries ago. This will seem incredible to
some: to me, an untrammelled person, familiar in both hall
and cottage, the distance between them appears immense.
</p>
<p>
A reader well acquainted with the valley will probably laugh
to be told that the manor-house which most interested me was
that of Knook, a poor little village between Heytesbury and
Upton Lovell. Its ancient and towerless little church with
rough, grey walls is, if possible, even more desolate-looking
than that of Tytherington. In my hunt for the key to open it
I disturbed a quaint old man, another octogenarian,
picturesque in a vast white beard, who told me he was a
thatcher, or had been one before the evil days came when he
could work no more and was compelled to seek parish relief.
"You must go to the manor-house for the key," he told me. A
strange place in which to look for the key, and it was
stranger still to see the house, close to the church, and so
like it that but for the small cross on the roof of the
latter one could not have known which was the sacred
building. First a monks' house, it fell at the Reformation to
some greedy gentleman who made it his dwelling, and doubtless
in later times it was used as a farm-house. Now a house most
desolate, dirty, and neglected, with cracks in the walls
which threaten ruin, standing in a wilderness of weeds,
tenanted by a poor working-man whose wages are twelve
shillings a week, and his wife and eight small children. The
rent is eighteen-pence a week—probably the
lowest-rented manor-house in England, though it is not very
rare to find such places tenanted by labourers.
</p>
<p>
But let us look at the true cottages. There are, I imagine,
few places in England where the humble homes of the people
have so great a charm. Undoubtedly they are darker inside,
and not so convenient to live in as the modern box-shaped,
red-brick, slate-roofed cottages, which have spread a wave of
ugliness over the country; but they do not offend—they
please the eye. They are smaller than the modern-built
habitations; they are weathered and coloured by sun and wind
and rain and many lowly vegetable forms to a harmony with
nature. They appear related to the trees amid which they
stand, to the river and meadows, to the sloping downs at the
side, and to the sky and clouds over all. And, most
delightful feature, they stand among, and are wrapped in,
flowers as in a garment—rose and vine and creeper and
clematis. They are mostly thatched, but some have tiled
roofs, their deep, dark red clouded and stained with lichen
and moss; and these roofs, too, have their flowers in summer.
They are grown over with yellow stonecrop, that bright
cheerful flower that smiles down at you from the lowly roof
above the door, with such an inviting expression, so
delighted to see you no matter how poor and worthless a
person you may be or what mischief you may have been at, that
you begin to understand the significance of a strange
vernacular name of this
plant—Welcome-home-husband-though-never-so-drunk.
</p>
<p>
But its garden flowers, clustering and nestling round it,
amid which its feet are set—they are to me the best of
all flowers. These are the flowers we know and remember for
ever. The old, homely, cottage-garden blooms, so old that
they have entered the soul. The big house garden, or
gardener's garden, with everything growing in it I hate, but
these I love—fragrant gillyflower and pink and
clove-smelling carnation; wallflower, abundant periwinkle,
sweet-william, larkspur, love-in-a-mist, and
love-lies-bleeding, old-woman's-nightcap, and
kiss-me-John-at-the-garden-gate, some times called pansy. And
best of all and in greatest profusion, that flower of
flowers, the marigold.
</p>
<p>
How the townsman, town born and bred, regards this flower, I
do not know. He is, in spite of all the time I have spent in
his company, a comparative stranger to me—the one
living creature on the earth who does not greatly interest
me. Some over-populated planet in our system discovered a way
to relieve itself by discharging its superfluous millions on
our globe—a pale people with hurrying feet and eager,
restless minds, who live apart in monstrous, crowded camps,
like wood ants that go not out to forage for
themselves—six millions of them crowded together in one
camp alone! I have lived in these colonies, years and years,
never losing the sense of captivity, of exile, ever conscious
of my burden, taking no interest in the doings of that
innumerable multitude, its manifold interests, its ideals and
philosophy, its arts and pleasures. What, then, does it
matter how they regard this common orange-coloured flower
with a strong smell? For me it has an atmosphere, a sense or
suggestion of something immeasurably remote and very
beautiful—an event, a place, a dream perhaps, which has
left no distinct image, but only this feeling unlike all
others, imperishable, and not to be described except by the
one word Marigold.
</p>
<p>
But when my sight wanders away from the flower to others
blooming with it—to all those which I have named and to
the taller ones, so tall that they reach half-way up, and
some even quite up, to the eaves of the lowly houses they
stand against—hollyhocks and peonies and crystalline
white lilies with powdery gold inside, and the common
sunflower—I begin to perceive that they all possess
something of that same magical quality.
</p>
<p>
These taller blooms remind me that the evening primrose, long
naturalized in our hearts, is another common and very
delightful cottage-garden flower; also that here, on the
Wylye, there is yet another stranger from the same western
world which is fast winning our affections. This is the
golden-rod, grandly beautiful in its great, yellow,
plume-like tufts. But it is not quite right to call the tufts
yellow: they are green, thickly powdered with the minute
golden florets. There is no flower in England like it, and it
is a happiness to know that it promises to establish itself
with us as a wild flower.
</p>
<p>
Where the village lies low in the valley and the cottage is
near the water, there are wild blooms, too, which almost
rival those of the garden in beauty—water agrimony and
comfrey with ivory-white and dim purple blossoms, purple and
yellow loosestrife and gem-like, water forget-me-not; all
these mixed with reeds and sedges and water-grasses, forming
a fringe or border to the potato or cabbage patch, dividing
it from the stream.
</p>
<p>
But now I have exhausted the subject of the flowers, and
enumerated and dwelt upon the various other components of the
scene, it comes to me that I have not yet said the right
thing and given the Wylye its characteristic expression. In
considering the flowers we lose sight of the downs, and so in
occupying ourselves with the details we miss the general
effect. Let me then, once more, before concluding this
chapter, try to capture the secret of this little river.
</p>
<p>
There are other chalk streams in Wiltshire and Hampshire and
Dorset—swift crystal currents that play all summer long
with the floating poa grass fast held in their pebbly beds,
flowing through smooth downs, with small ancient churches in
their green villages, and pretty thatched cottages smothered
in flowers—which yet do not produce the same effect as
the Wylye. Not Avon for all its beauty, nor Itchen, nor Test.
Wherein, then, does the "Wylye bourne" differ from these
others, and what is its special attraction? It was only when
I set myself to think about it, to analyse the feeling in my
own mind, that I discovered the secret—that is, in my
own case, for of its effect on others I cannot say anything.
What I discovered was that the various elements of interest,
all of which may be found in other chalk-stream valleys, are
here concentrated, or comprised in a limited space, and seen
together produce a combined effect on the mind. It is the
narrowness of the valley and the nearness of the high downs
standing over it on either side, with, at some points, the
memorials of antiquity carved on their smooth surfaces, the
barrows and lynchetts or terraces, and the vast green
earth-works crowning their summit. Up here on the turf, even
with the lark singing his shrill music in the blue heavens,
you are with the prehistoric dead, yourself for the time one
of that innumerable, unsubstantial multitude, invisible in
the sun, so that the sheep travelling as they graze, and the
shepherd following them, pass through their ranks without
suspecting their presence. And from that elevation you look
down upon the life of to-day—the visible life, so brief
in the individual, which, like the swift silver stream
beneath, yet flows on continuously from age to age and for
ever. And even as you look down you hear, at that distance,
the bell of the little hidden church tower telling the hour
of noon, and quickly following, a shout of freedom and joy
from many shrill voices of children just released from
school. Woke to life by those sounds, and drawn down by them,
you may sit to rest or sun yourself on the stone table of a
tomb overgrown on its sides with moss, the two-century-old
inscription well-nigh obliterated, in the little grass-grown,
flowery churchyard which serves as village green and
playground in that small centre of life, where the living and
the dead exist in a neighbourly way together. For it is not
here as in towns, where the dead are away and out of mind and
the past cut off. And if after basking too long in the sun in
that tree-sheltered spot you go into the little church to
cool yourself, you will probably find in a dim corner not far
from the altar a stone effigy of one of an older time; a
knight in armour, perhaps a crusader with legs crossed, lying
on his back, dimly seen in the dim light, with perhaps a
coloured sunbeam on his upturned face. For this little church
where the villagers worship is very old; Norman on Saxon
foundations; and before they were ever laid there may have
been a temple to some ancient god at that spot, or a Roman
villa perhaps. For older than Saxon foundations are found in
the vale, and mosaic floors, still beautiful after lying
buried so long.
</p>
<p>
All this—the far-removed events and periods in
time—are not in the conscious mind when we are in the
vale or when we are looking down on it from above: the mind
is occupied with nothing but visible nature. Thus, when I am
sitting on the tomb, listening to the various sounds of life
about me, attentive to the flowers and bees and butterflies,
to man or woman or child taking a short cut through the
churchyard, exchanging a few words with them; or when I am by
the water close by, watching a little company of graylings,
their delicately-shaded, silver-grey scales distinctly seen
as they lie in the crystal current watching for flies; or
when I listen to the perpetual musical talk and song combined
of a family of green-finches in the alders or willows, my
mind is engaged with these things. But if one is familiar
with the vale; if one has looked with interest and been
deeply impressed with the signs and memorials of past life
and of antiquity everywhere present and forming part of the
scene, something of it and of all that it represents remains
in the subconscious mind to give a significance and feeling
to the scene, which affects us here more than in most places;
and that, I take it, is the special charm of this little
valley.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch14"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER XIV
</h2>
<h3>
A SHEEP-DOG'S LIFE
</h3>
<blockquote>
Watch—His visits to a dew-pond—David and his dog
Monk—Watch goes to David's assistance—Caleb's new
master objects to his dog—Watch and the
corn-crake—Watch plays with rabbits and
guinea-pigs—Old Nance the rook-scarer—The lost
pair of spectacles—Watch in decline—Grey hairs in
animals—A grey mole—Last days of Watch—A
shepherd on old sheep-dogs
</blockquote>
<p>
Perhaps the most interesting of the many sheep-dog histories
the shepherd related was that of Watch, a dog he had at
Winterbourne Bishop for three years before he migrated to
Warminster. Watch, he said, was more "like a Christian,"
otherwise a reasonable being, than any other dog he had
owned. He was exceedingly active, and in hot weather suffered
more from heat than most dogs. Now the only accessible water
when they were out on the down was in the mist-pond about a
quarter of a mile from his "liberty," as he called that
portion of the down on which he was entitled to pasture his
sheep. When Watch could stand his sufferings no longer, he
would run to his master, and sitting at his feet look up at
his face and emit a low, pleading whine.
</p>
<p>
"What be you wanting, Watch—a drink or a swim?" the
shepherd would say, and Watch, cocking up his ears, would
repeat the whine.
</p>
<p>
"Very well, go to the pond," Bawcombe would say, and off
Watch would rush, never pausing until he got to the water,
and dashing in he would swim round and round, lapping the
water as he bathed.
</p>
<p>
At the side of the pond there was a large, round
sarsen-stone, and invariably on coming out of his bath Watch
would jump upon it, and with his four feet drawn up close
together would turn round and round, surveying the country
from that elevation; then jumping down he would return in all
haste to his duties.
</p>
<p>
Another anecdote, which relates to the Winterbourne Bishop
period, is a somewhat painful one, and is partly about Monk,
the sheep-dog already described as a hunter of foxes, and his
tragic end. Caleb had worked him for a time, but when he came
into possession of Watch he gave Monk to his younger brother
David, who was under-shepherd on the same farm.
</p>
<p>
One morning Caleb was with the ewes in a field, when David,
who was in charge of the lambs two or three fields away, came
to him looking very strange—very much put out.
</p>
<p>
"What are you here for—what's wrong with 'ee?" demanded
Caleb.
</p>
<p>
"Nothing's wrong," returned the other.
</p>
<p>
"Where's Monk then?" asked Caleb.
</p>
<p>
"Dead," said David.
</p>
<p>
"Dead! How's he dead?"
</p>
<p>
"I killed'n. He wouldn't mind me and made me mad, and I up
with my stick and gave him one crack on the head and it
killed'n."
</p>
<p>
"You killed 'n!" exclaimed Caleb. "An' you come here an' tell
I nothing's wrong! Is that a right way to speak of such a
thing as that? What be you thinking of? And what be you going
to do with the lambs?"
</p>
<p>
"I'm just going back to them—I'm going to do without a
dog. I'm going to put them in the rape and they'll be all
right."
</p>
<p>
"What! put them in the rape and no dog to help 'ee?" cried
the other. "You are not doing things right, but master
mustn't pay for it. Take Watch to help 'ee—I must do
without'n this morning."
</p>
<p>
"No, I'll not take'n," he said, for he was angry because he
had done an evil thing and he would have no one, man or dog,
to help him. "I'll do better without a dog," he said, and
marched off.
</p>
<p>
Caleb cried after him: "If you won't have the dog don't let
the lambs suffer but do as I tell 'ee. Don't you let 'em bide
in the rape more 'n ten minutes; then chase them out, and let
'em stand twenty minutes to half an hour; then let them in
another ten minutes and out again for twenty minutes, then
let them go back and feed in it quietly, for the danger 'll
be over. If you don't do as I tell 'ee you'll have many
blown."
</p>
<p>
David listened, then without a word went his way. But Caleb
was still much troubled in his mind. How would he get that
flock of hungry lambs out of the rape without a dog? And
presently he determined to send Watch, or try to send him, to
save the situation. David had been gone half an hour when he
called the dog, and pointing in the direction he had taken he
cried, "Dave wants 'ee—go to Dave."
</p>
<p>
Watch looked at him and listened, then bounded away, and
after running full speed about fifty yards stopped to look
back to make sure he was doing the right thing. "Go to Dave,"
shouted Caleb once more; and away went Watch again, and
arriving at a very high gate at the end of the field dashed
at and tried two or three times to get over it, first by
jumping, then by climbing, and falling back each time. But by
and by he managed to force his way through the thick hedge
and was gone from sight.
</p>
<p>
When David came back that evening he was in a different mood,
and said that Watch had saved him from a great misfortune: he
could never have got the lambs out by himself, as they were
mad for the rape. For some days after this Watch served two
masters. Caleb would take him to his ewes, and after a while
would say, "Go—Dave wants 'ee," and away Watch would go
to the other shepherd and flock.
</p>
<p>
When Bawcombe had taken up his new place at Doveton, his
master, Mr. Ellerby, watched him for a while with sharp eyes,
but he was soon convinced that he had not made a mistake in
engaging a head-shepherd twenty-five miles away without
making the usual inquiries but merely on the strength of
something heard casually in conversation about this man. But
while more than satisfied with the man he remained suspicious
of the dog. "I'm afraid that dog of yours must hurt the
sheep," he would say, and he even advised him to change him
for one that worked in a quieter manner. Watch was too
excitable, too impetuous—he could not go after the
sheep in that violent way and grab them as he did without
injuring them with his teeth.
</p>
<p>
"He did never bite a sheep in his life," Bawcombe assured
him, and eventually he was able to convince his master that
Watch could make a great show of biting the sheep without
doing them the least hurt—that it was actually against
his nature to bite or injure anything.
</p>
<p>
One day in the late summer, when the corn had been cut but
not carried, Bawcombe was with his flock on the edge of a
newly reaped cornfield in a continuous, heavy rain, when he
spied his master coming to him. He was in a very light summer
suit and straw hat, and had no umbrella or other protection
from the pouring rain. "What be wrong with master to-day?"
said Bawcombe. "He's tarrably upset to be out like this in
such a rain in a straw hat and no coat."
</p>
<p>
Mr. Ellerby had by that time got into the habit when troubled
in his mind of going out to his shepherd to have a long talk
with him. Not a talk about his trouble—that was some
secret bitterness in his heart—but just about the sheep
and other ordinary topics, and the talk, Caleb said, would
seem to do him good. But this habit he had got into was
observed by others, and the farm-men would say, "Something's
wrong to-day—the master's gone off to the
head-shepherd."
</p>
<p>
When he came to where Bawcombe was standing, in a poor
shelter by the side of a fence, he at once started talking on
indifferent subjects, standing there quite unconcerned, as if
he didn't even know that it was raining, though his thin
clothes were wet through, and the water coming through his
straw hat was running in streaks down his face. By and by he
became interested in the dog's movements, playing about in
the rain among the stocks. "What has he got in his mouth?" he
asked presently.
</p>
<p>
"Come here, Watch," the shepherd called, and when Watch came
he bent down and took a corncrake from his mouth. He had
found the bird hiding in one of the stocks and had captured
without injuring it.
</p>
<p>
"Why, it's alive—the dog hasn't hurt it," said the
farmer, taking it in his hands to examine it.
</p>
<p>
"Watch never hurted any creature yet," said Bawcombe. He
caught things just for his own amusement, but never injured
them—he always let them go again. He would hunt mice in
the fields, and when he captured one he would play with it
like a cat, tossing it from him, then dashing after and
recapturing it. Finally, he would let it go. He played with
rabbits in the same way, and if you took a rabbit from him
and examined it you would find it quite uninjured.
</p>
<p>
The farmer said it was wonderful—he had never heard of
a case like it before; and talking of Watch he succeeded in
forgetting the trouble in his mind which had sent him out in
the rain in his thin clothes and straw hat, and he went away
in a cheerful mood.
</p>
<p>
Caleb probably forgot to mention during this conversation
with his master that in most cases when Watch captured a
rabbit he took it to his master and gave it into his hands,
as much as to say, Here is a very big sort of field-mouse I
have caught, rather difficult to manage—perhaps
<i>you</i> can do something with it?
</p>
<p>
The shepherd had many other stories about this curious
disposition of his dog. When he had been some months in his
new place his brother David followed him to the Wylye, having
obtained a place as shepherd on a farm adjoining Mr.
Ellerby's. His cottage was a little out of the village and
had some ground to it, with a nice lawn or green patch. David
was fond of keeping animal pets—birds in cages, and
rabbits and guinea-pigs in hutches, the last so tame that he
would release them on the grass to see them play with one
another. When Watch first saw these pets he was very much
attracted, and wanted to get to them, and after a good deal
of persuasion on the part of Caleb, David one day consented
to take them out and put them on the grass in the dog's
presence. They were a little alarmed at first, but in a
surprisingly short time made the discovery that this
particular dog was not their enemy but a playmate. He rolled
on the grass among them, and chased them round and round, and
sometimes caught and pretended to worry them, and they
appeared to think it very good fun.
</p>
<p>
"Watch," said Bawcombe, "in the fifteen years I had 'n, never
killed and never hurt a creature, no, not even a leetel
mouse, and when he caught anything 'twere only to play with
it."
</p>
<p>
Watch comes into a story of an old woman employed at the farm
at this period. She had been in the Warminster workhouse for
a short time, and had there heard that a daughter of a former
mistress in another part of the county had long been married
and was now the mistress of Doveton Farm, close by. Old Nance
thereupon obtained her release and trudged to Doveton, and
one very rough, cold day presented herself at the farm to beg
for something to do which would enable her to keep herself.
If there was nothing for her she must, she said, go back and
end her days in the Warminster workhouse. Mrs. Ellerby
remembered and pitied her, and going in to her husband begged
him earnestly to find some place on the farm for the forlorn
old creature. He did not see what could be done for her: they
already had one old woman on their hands, who mended sacks
and did a few other trifling things, but for another old
woman there would be nothing to do. Then he went in and had a
good long look at her, revolving the matter in his mind,
anxious to please his wife, and finally, he asked her if she
could scare the crows. He could think of nothing else. Of
course she could scare crows—it was the very thing for
her! Well, he said, she could go and look after the swedes;
the rooks had just taken a liking to them, and even if she
was not very active perhaps she would be able to keep them
off.
</p>
<p>
Old Nance got up to go and begin her duties at once. Then the
farmer, looking at her clothes, said he would give her
something more to protect her from the weather on such a
bleak day. He got her an old felt hat, a big old frieze
overcoat, and a pair of old leather leggings. When she had
put on these somewhat cumbrous things, and had tied her hat
firmly on with a strip of cloth, and fastened the coat at the
waist with a cord, she was told to go to the head-shepherd
and ask him to direct her to the field where the rooks were
troublesome. Then when she was setting out the farmer called
her back and gave her an ancient, rusty gun to scare the
birds. "It isn't loaded," he said, with a grim smile. "I
don't allow powder and shot, but if you'll point it at them
they'll fly fast enough."
</p>
<p>
Thus arrayed and armed she set forth, and Caleb seeing her
approach at a distance was amazed at her grotesque
appearance, and even more amazed still when she explained who
and what she was and asked him to direct her to the field of
swedes.
</p>
<p>
Some hours later the farmer came to him and asked him
casually if he had seen an old gallus-crow about.
</p>
<p>
"Well," replied the shepherd, "I seen an old woman in man's
coat and things, with an old gun, and I did tell she where to
bide."
</p>
<p>
"I think it will be rather cold for the old body in that
field," said the farmer. "I'd like you to get a couple of
padded hurdles and put them up for a shelter for her."
</p>
<p>
And in the shelter of the padded or thatched hurdles, by the
hedge-side, old Nance spent her days keeping guard over the
turnips, and afterwards something else was found for her to
do, and in the meanwhile she lodged in Caleb's cottage and
became like one of the family. She was fond of the children
and of the dog, and Watch became so much attached to her that
had it not been for his duties with the flock he would have
attended her all day in the fields to help her with the
crows.
</p>
<p>
Old Nance had two possessions she greatly prized—a book
and a pair of spectacles, and it was her custom to spend the
day sitting, spectacles on nose and book in hand, reading
among the turnips. Her spectacles were so "tarrable" good
that they suited all old eyes, and when this was discovered
they were in great request in the village, and every person
who wanted to do a bit of fine sewing or anything requiring
young vision in old eyes would borrow them for the purpose.
One day the old woman returned full of trouble from the
fields—she had lost her spectacles; she must, she
thought, have lent them to some one in the village on the
previous evening and then forgotten all about it. But no one
had them, and the mysterious loss of the spectacles was
discussed and lamented by everybody. A day or two later Caleb
came through the turnips on his way home, the dog at his
heels, and when he got to his cottage Watch came round and
placed himself square before his master and deposited the
lost spectacles at his feet. He had found them in the
turnip-field over a mile from home, and though but a dog he
remembered that he had seen them on people's noses and in
their hands, and knew that they must therefore be
valuable—not to himself, but to that larger and more
important kind of dog that goes about on its hind legs.
</p>
<p>
There is always a sad chapter in the life-history of a dog;
it is the last one, which tells of his decline; and it is
ever saddest in the case of the sheep-dog, because he has
lived closer to man and has served him every day of his life
with all his powers, all his intelligence, in the one useful
and necessary work he is fitted for or which we have found
for him to do. The hunting and the pet, or parasite,
dogs—the "dogs for sport and pleasure"—though one
in species with him are not like beings of the same order;
they are like professional athletes and performers, and smart
or fashionable people compared to those who do the work of
the world—who feed us and clothe us. We are accustomed
to speak of dogs generally as the servants and the friends of
man; it is only of the sheep-dog that this can be said with
absolute truth. Not only is he the faithful servant of the
solitary man who shepherds his flock, but the dog's
companionship is as much to him as that of a fellow-being
would be.
</p>
<p>
Before his long and strenuous life was finished. Watch,
originally jet-black without a spot, became quite grey, the
greyness being most marked on the head, which became at last
almost white.
</p>
<p>
It is undoubtedly the case that some animals, like men, turn
grey with age, and Watch when fifteen was relatively as old
as a man at sixty-five or seventy. But grey hairs do not
invariably come with age, even in our domestic animals, which
are more subject to this change than those in a state of
nature. But we are never so well able to judge of this in the
case of wild animals, as in most cases their lives end
prematurely.
</p>
<p>
The shepherd related a curious instance in a mole. He once
noticed mole-heaps of a peculiar kind in a field of sainfoin,
and it looked to him as if this mole worked in a way of his
own, quite unlike the others. The hills he threw up were a
good distance apart, and so large that you could fill a
bushel measure with the mould from any one of them. He
noticed that this mole went on burrowing every day in the
same manner; every morning there were new chains or ranges of
the huge mounds. The runs were very deep, as he found when
setting a mole-trap—over two feet beneath the surface.
He set his trap, filling the deep hole he had made with sods,
and on opening it next day he found his mole and was
astonished at its great size. He took no measurements, but it
was bigger, he affirmed, than he could have believed it
possible for a mole to be. And it was grey instead of black,
the grey hairs being so abundant on the head as to make it
almost white, as in the case of old Watch. He supposed that
it was a very old mole, that it was a more powerful digger
than most of its kind, and had perhaps escaped death so long
on account of its strength and of its habit of feeding deeper
in the earth than the others.
</p>
<p>
To return to Watch. His hearing and eyesight failed as he
grew older until he was practically blind and too deaf to
hear any word given in the ordinary way. But he continued
strong as ever on his legs, and his mind was not decayed, nor
was he in the least tired. On the contrary, he was always
eager to work, and as his blindness and deafness had made him
sharper in other ways he was still able to make himself
useful with the sheep. Whenever the hurdles were shifted to a
fresh place and the sheep had to be kept in a corner of the
enclosure until the new place was ready for them, it was old
Watch's duty to keep them from breaking away. He could not
see nor hear, but in some mysterious way he knew when they
tried to get out, even if it was but one. Possibly the slight
vibration of the ground informed him of the movement and the
direction as well. He would make a dash and drive the sheep
back, then run up and down before the flock until all was
quiet again. But at last it became painful to witness his
efforts, especially when the sheep were very restless, and
incessantly trying to break away; and Watch finding them so
hard to restrain would grow angry and rush at them with such
fury that he would come violently against the hurdles at one
side, then getting up, howling with pain, he would dash to
the other side, when he would strike the hurdles there and
cry out with pain once more.
</p>
<p>
It could not be allowed to go on; yet Watch could not endure
to be deprived of his work; if left at home he would spend
the time whining and moaning, praying to be allowed to go to
the flock, until at last his master with a very heavy heart
was compelled to have him put to death.
</p>
<p>
This is indeed almost invariably the end of a sheepdog;
however zealous and faithful he may have been, and however
much valued and loved, he must at last be put to death. I
related the story of this dog to a shepherd in the very
district where Watch had lived and served his master so
well—one who had been head-shepherd for upwards of
forty years at Imber Court, the principal farm at the small
downland village of Imber. He told me that during all his
shepherding years he had never owned a dog which had passed
out of his hands to another; every dog had been acquired as a
pup and trained by himself; and he had been very fond of his
dogs, but had always been compelled to have them shot in the
end. Not because he would have found them too great a burden
when they had become too old and their senses decayed, but
because it was painful to see them in their decline,
perpetually craving to be at their old work with the sheep,
incapable of doing it any longer, yet miserable if kept from
it.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch15"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER XV
</h2>
<h3>
THE ELLERBYS OF DOVETON
</h3>
<blockquote>
The Bawcombes at Doveton Farm—Caleb finds favour with
his master—Mrs. Ellerby and the shepherd's
wife—The passion of a childless wife—The
curse—A story of the "mob"—The attack on the
farm—A man transported for life—The hundred and
ninth Psalm—The end of the Ellerbys
</blockquote>
<p>
Caleb and his wife invariably spoke of their time at Doveton
Farm in a way which gave one the idea that they regarded it
as the most important period of their lives. It had deeply
impressed them, and doubtless it was a great change for them
to leave their native village for the first time in their
lives and go long miles from home among strangers to serve a
new master. Above everything they felt leaving the old father
who was angry with them, and had gone to the length of
disowning them for taking such a step. But there was
something besides all this which had served to give Doveton
an enduring place in their memories, and after many talks
with the old couple about their Warminster days I formed the
idea that it was more to them than any other place where they
had lived, because of a personal feeling they cherished for
their master and mistress there.
</p>
<p>
Hitherto Caleb had been in the service of men who were but a
little way removed in thought and feeling from those they
employed. They were mostly small men, born and bred in the
parish, some wholly self-made, with no interest or knowledge
of anything outside their own affairs, and almost as far
removed as the labourers themselves from the ranks above. The
Ellerbys were of another stamp, or a different class. If not
a gentleman, Mr. Ellerby was very like one and was accustomed
to associate with gentlemen. He was a farmer, descended from
a long line of farmers; but he owned his own land, and was an
educated and travelled man, considered wealthy for a farmer;
at all events he was able to keep his carriage and riding and
hunting horses in his stables, and he was regarded as the
best breeder of sheep in the district. He lived in a good
house, which with its pictures and books and beautiful
decorations and furniture appeared to their simple minds
extremely luxurious. This atmosphere was somewhat
disconcerting to them at first, for although he knew his own
value, priding himself on being a "good shepherd," Caleb had
up till now served with farmers who were in a sense on an
equality with him, and they understood him and he them. But
in a short time the feeling of strangeness vanished:
personally, as a fellow-man, his master soon grew to be more
to him than any farmer he had yet been with. And he saw a
good deal of his master. Mr. Ellerby cultivated his
acquaintance, and, as we have seen, got into the habit of
seeking him out and talking to him even when he was at a
distance out on the down with his flock. And Caleb could not
but see that in this respect he was preferred above the other
men employed on the farm—that he had "found favour" in
his master's eyes.
</p>
<p>
When he had told me that story about Watch and the
corn-crake, it stuck in my mind, and on the first opportunity
I went back to that subject to ask what it really was that
made his master act in such an extraordinary manner—to
go out on a pouring wet day in a summer suit and straw hat,
and walk a mile or two just to stand there in the rain
talking to him about nothing in particular. What secret
trouble had he—was it that his affairs were in a bad
way, or was he quarrelling with his wife? No, nothing of the
kind; it was a long story—this secret trouble of the
Ellerbys, and with his unconquerable reticence in regard to
other people's private affairs he would have passed it off
with a few general remarks.
</p>
<p>
But there was his old wife listening to us, and, woman-like,
eager to discuss such a subject, she would not let it pass.
She would tell it and would not be silenced by him: they were
all dead and gone—why should I not be told if I wanted
to hear it? And so with a word put in here and there by him
when she talked, and with a good many words interposed by her
when he took up the tale, they unfolded the story, which was
very long as they told it and must be given briefly here.
</p>
<p>
It happened that when the Bawcombes settled at Doveton, just
as Mr. Ellerby had taken to the shepherd, making a friend of
him, so Mrs. Ellerby took to the shepherd's wife, and fell
into the habit of paying frequent visits to her in her
cottage. She was a very handsome woman, of a somewhat stately
presence, dignified in manner, and she wore her abundant hair
in curls hanging on each side to her shoulders—a
fashion common at that time. From the first she appeared to
take a particular interest in the Bawcombes, and they could
not but notice that she was more gracious and friendly
towards them than to the others of their station on the farm.
The Bawcombes had three children then, aged six, four, and
two years respectively, all remarkably healthy, with rosy
cheeks and black eyes, and they were merry-tempered little
things. Mrs. Ellerby appeared much taken with the children;
praised their mother for always keeping them so clean and
nicely dressed, and wondered how she could manage it on their
small earnings. The carter and his wife lived in a cottage
close by, and they, too, had three little children, and next
to the carter's was the bailiff's cottage, and he, too, was
married and had children; but Mrs. Ellerby never went into
their cottages, and the shepherd and his wife concluded that
it was because in both cases the children were rather puny,
sickly-looking little things and were never very clean. The
carter's wife, too, was a slatternly woman. One day when Mrs.
Ellerby came in to see Mrs. Bawcombe the carter's wife was
just going out of the door, and Mrs. Ellerby appeared
displeased, and before leaving she said, "I hope, Mrs.
Bawcombe, you are not going to mix too freely with your
neighbours or let your children go too much with them and
fall into their ways." They also observed that when she
passed their neighbours' children in the lane she spoke no
word and appeared not to see them. Yet she was kind to them
too, and whenever she brought a big parcel of cakes, fruit,
and sweets for the children, which she often did, she would
tell the shepherd's wife to divide it into three lots, one
for her own children and the others for those of her two
neighbours. It was clear to see that Mrs. Ellerby had grown
fond of her children, especially of the eldest, the little
rosy-cheeked six-year-old boy. Sitting in the cottage she
would call him to her side and would hold his hand while
conversing with his mother; she would also bare the child's
arm just for the pleasure of rubbing it with her hand and
clasping it round with her fingers, and sometimes when
caressing the child in this way she would turn her face aside
to hide the tears that dropped from her eyes.
</p>
<p>
She had no child of her own—the one happiness which she
and her husband desired above all things. Six times in their
ten married years they had hoped and rejoiced, although with
fear and trembling, that their prayer would be answered, but
in vain—every child born to them came lifeless into the
world. "And so 'twould always be, for sure," said the
villagers, "because of the curse."
</p>
<p>
For it was a cause of wonder to the shepherd and his wife
that this couple, so strong and healthy, so noble-looking, so
anxious to have children, should have been so unfortunate,
and still the villagers repeated that it was the curse that
was on them.
</p>
<p>
This made the shepherd angry. "What be you saying about a
curse that is on them?—a good man and a good woman!" he
would exclaim, and taking up his crook go out and leave them
to their gossip. He would not ask them what they meant; he
refused to listen when they tried to tell him; but in the end
he could not help knowing, since the idea had become a fixed
one in the minds of all the villagers, and he could not keep
it out. "Look at them," the gossipers would say, "as fine a
couple as you ever saw, and no child; and look at his two
brothers, fine, big, strong, well-set-up men, both married to
fine healthy women, and never a child living to any of them.
And the sisters unmarried! 'Tis the curse and nothing else."
</p>
<p>
The curse had been uttered against Mr. Ellerby's father, who
was in his prime in the year 1831 at the time of the "mob,"
when the introduction of labour-saving machinery in
agriculture sent the poor farm-labourers mad all over
England. Wheat was at a high price at that time, and the
farmers were exceedingly prosperous, but they paid no more
than seven shillings a week to their miserable labourers. And
if they were half-starved when there was work for all, when
the corn was reaped with sickles, what would their condition
be when reaping machines and other new implements of
husbandry came into use? They would not suffer it; they would
gather in bands everywhere and destroy the machinery, and
being united they would be irresistible; and so it came about
that there were risings or "mobs" all over the land.
</p>
<p>
Mr. Ellerby, the most prosperous and enterprising farmer in
the parish, had been the first to introduce the new methods.
He did not believe that the people would rise against him,
for he well knew that he was regarded as a just and kind man
and was even loved by his own labourers, but even if it had
not been so he would not have hesitated to carry out his
resolution, as he was a high-spirited man. But one day the
villagers got together and came unexpectedly to his barns,
where they set to work to destroy his new thrashing machine.
When he was told he rushed out and went in hot haste to the
scene, and as he drew near some person in the crowd threw a
heavy hammer at him, which struck him on the head and brought
him senseless to the ground.
</p>
<p>
He was not seriously injured, but when he recovered the work
of destruction had been done and the men had gone back to
their homes, and no one could say who had led them and who
had thrown the hammer. But by and by the police discovered
that the hammer was the property of a shoemaker in the
village, and he was arrested and charged with injuring with
intent to murder. Tried with many others from other villages
in the district at the Salisbury Assizes, he was found guilty
and sentenced to transportation for life. Yet the Doveton
shoemaker was known to every one as a quiet, inoffensive
young man, and to the last he protested his innocence, for
although he had gone with the others to the farm he had not
taken the hammer and was guiltless of having thrown it.
</p>
<p>
Two years after he had been sent away Mr. Ellerby received a
letter with an Australian postmark on it, but on opening it
found nothing but a long denunciatory passage from the Bible
enclosed, with no name or address. Mr. Ellerby was much
disturbed in his mind, and instead of burning the paper and
holding his peace, he kept it and spoke about it to this
person and that, and every one went to his Bible to find out
what message the poor shoemaker had sent, for it had been
discovered that it was the one hundred and ninth Psalm, or a
great portion of it, and this is what they read:—
</p>
<p>
"Let the iniquity of his fathers be remembered with the Lord;
and let not the sin of his mother be blotted out.
</p>
<p>
"Let them be before the Lord continually, that he may cut off
the memory of them from the earth.
</p>
<p>
"Because that he remembered not to show mercy, but persecuted
the poor and needy man, that he might even slay the broken in
heart.
</p>
<p>
"As he loved cursing, so let it come unto him; as he
delighted not in blessing, so let it be far from him.
</p>
<p>
"As he clothed himself with cursing like as with a garment,
so let it come into his bowels like water, and like oil into
his bones.
</p>
<p>
"Let it be unto him as a garment which covereth him, and for
a girdle wherewith he is girded continually.
</p>
<p>
"But do Thou for me, O God the Lord, for Thy name's sake. For
I am poor and needy, and my heart is wounded within me.
</p>
<p>
"I am come like the shadow when it declineth: I am tossed up
and down as the locust.
</p>
<p>
"My knees are weak through fasting; and my flesh faileth of
fatness."
</p>
<p>
From that time the hundred and ninth Psalm became familiar to
the villagers, and there were probably not many who did not
get it by heart. There was no doubt in their minds of the
poor shoemaker's innocence. Every one knew that he was
incapable of hurting a fly. The crowd had gone into his shop
and swept him away with them—all were in it; and some
person seeing the hammer had taken it to help in smashing the
machinery. And Mr. Ellerby had known in his heart that he was
innocent, and if he had spoken a word for him in court he
would have got the benefit of the doubt and been discharged.
But no, he wanted to have his revenge on some one, and he
held his peace and allowed this poor fellow to be made the
victim. Then, when he died, and his eldest son succeeded him
at Doveton Farm, and he and the other sons got married, and
there were no children, or none born alive, they went back to
the Psalm again and read and re-read and quoted the words:
"Let his posterity be cut off; and in the generation
following let their name be blotted out." Undoubtedly the
curse was on them!
</p>
<p>
Alas! it was; the curse was their belief in the curse, and
the dreadful effect of the knowledge of it on a woman's
mind—all the result of Mr. Ellerby the father's fatal
mistake in not having thrown the scrap of paper that came to
him from the other side of the world into the fire. All the
unhappiness of the "generation following" came about in this
way, and the family came to an end; for when the last of the
Ellerbys died at a great age there was not one person of the
name left in that part of Wiltshire.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch16"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER XVI
</h2>
<h3>
OLD WILTSHIRE DAYS
</h3>
<blockquote>
Old memories—Hindon as a borough and as a
village—The Lamb Inn and its birds—The "mob" at
Hindon—The blind smuggler—Rawlings of Lower
Pertwood Farm—Reed, the thresher and
deer-stealer—He leaves a fortune—Devotion to
work—Old Father Time—Groveley Wood and the
people's rights—Grace Reed and the Earl of
Pembroke—An illusion of the very
aged—Sedan-chairs in Bath—Stick-gathering by the
poor—Game-preserving
</blockquote>
<p>
The incident of the unhappy young man who was transported to
Australia or Tasmania, which came out in the shepherd's
history of the Ellerby family, put it in my mind to look up
some of the very aged people of the downland villages, whose
memories could go back to the events of eighty years ago. I
found a few, "still lingering here," who were able to recall
that miserable and memorable year of 1830 and had witnessed
the doings of the "mobs." One was a woman, my old friend of
Fonthill Bishop, now aged ninety-four, who was in her teens
when the poor labourers, "a thousand strong," some say, armed
with cudgels, hammers, and axes, visited her village and
broke up the thrashing machines they found there.
</p>
<p>
Another person who remembered that time was an old but
remarkably well-preserved man of eighty-nine at Hindon, a
village a couple of miles distant from Fonthill Bishop.
Hindon is a delightful little village, so rustic and pretty
amidst its green, swelling downs, with great woods crowning
the heights beyond, that one can hardly credit the fact that
it was formerly an important market and session town and a
Parliamentary borough returning two members; also that it
boasted among other greatnesses thirteen public-houses. Now
it has two, and not flourishing in these tea- and
mineral-water drinking days. Naturally it was an exceeedingly
corrupt little borough, where free beer for all was the order
of the day for a period of four to six weeks before an
election, and where every householder with a vote looked to
receive twenty guineas from the candidate of his choice. It
is still remembered that when a householder in those days was
very hard up, owing, perhaps, to his too frequent visits to
the thirteen public-houses, he would go to some substantial
tradesman in the place and pledge his twenty guineas, due at
the next election! In due time, after the Reform Bill, it was
deprived of its glory, and later when the South-Western
Railway built their line from Salisbury to Yeovil and left
Hindon some miles away, making their station at Tisbury, it
fell into decay, dwindling to the small village it now is;
and its last state, sober and purified, is very much better
than the old. For although sober, it is contented and even
merry, and exhibits such a sweet friendliness toward the
stranger within its gates as to make him remember it with
pleasure and gratitude.
</p>
<p>
What a quiet little place Hindon has become, after its old
noisy period, the following little bird story will show. For
several weeks during the spring and summer of 1909 my home
was at the Lamb Inn, a famous posting-house of the great old
days, and we had three pairs of birds—throstle, pied
wagtail, and flycatcher—breeding in the ivy covering
the wall facing the village street, just over my window. I
watched them when building, incubating, feeding their young,
and bringing their young off. The villagers, too, were
interested in the sight, and sometimes a dozen or more men
and boys would gather and stand for half an hour watching the
birds flying in and out of their nests when feeding their
young. The last to come off were the flycatchers, on 18th
June. It was on the morning of the day I left, and one of the
little things flitted into the room where I was having my
breakfast. I succeeded in capturing it before the cats found
out, and put it back on the ivy. There were three young
birds; I had watched them from the time they hatched, and
when I returned a fortnight later, there were the three,
still being fed by their parents in the trees and on the
roof, their favourite perching-place being on the swinging
sign of the "Lamb." Whenever an old bird darted at and
captured a fly the three young would flutter round it like
three butterflies to get the fly. This continued until 18th
July, after which date I could not detect their feeding the
young, although the hunger-call was occasionally heard.
</p>
<p>
If the flycatcher takes a month to teach its young to catch
their own flies, it is not strange that it breeds but once in
the year. It is a delicate art the bird practises and takes
long to learn, but how different with the martin, which
dismisses its young in a few days and begins breeding again,
even to the third time!
</p>
<p>
These three broods over my window were not the only ones in
the place; there were at least twenty other pairs in the
garden and outhouses of the inn—sparrows, thrushes,
blackbirds, dunnocks, wrens, starlings, and swallows. Yet the
inn was in the very centre of the village, and being an inn
was the most frequented and noisiest spot.
</p>
<p>
To return to my old friend of eighty-nine. He was but a small
boy, attending the Hindon school, when the rioters appeared
on the scene, and he watched their entry from the schoolhouse
window. It was market-day, and the market was stopped by the
invaders, and the agricultural machines brought for sale and
exhibition were broken up. The picture that remains in his
mind is of a great excited crowd in which men and cattle and
sheep were mixed together in the wide street, which was the
market-place, and of shouting and noise of smashing
machinery, and finally of the mob pouring forth over the down
on its way to the next village, he and other little boys
following their march.
</p>
<p>
The smuggling trade flourished greatly at that period, and
there were receivers and distributors of smuggled wine,
spirits, and other commodities in every town and in very many
villages throughout the county in spite of its distance from
the sea-coast. One of his memories is of a blind man of the
village, or town as it was then, who was used as an assistant
in this business. He had lost his sight in childhood, one eye
having been destroyed by a ferret which got into his cradle;
then, when he was about six years old he was running across
the room one day with a fork it his hand when he stumbled,
and falling on the floor had the other eye pierced by the
prongs. But in spite of his blindness he became a good
worker, and could make a fence, reap, trim hedges, feed the
animals, and drive a horse as well as any man. His father had
a small farm and was a carrier as well, a quiet, sober,
industrious man who was never suspected by his neighbours of
being a smuggler, for he never left his house and work, but
from time to time he had little consignments of rum and
brandy in casks received on a dark night and carefully stowed
away in his manure heap and in a pit under the floor of his
pigsty. Then the blind son would drive his old mother in the
carrier's cart to Bath and call at a dozen or twenty private
houses, leaving parcels which had been already ordered and
paid for—a gallon of brandy at one, two or four gallons
of rum at another, and so on, until all was got rid of, and
on the following day they would return with goods to Hindon.
This quiet little business went on satisfactorily for some
years, during which the officers of the excise had stared a
thousand times with their eagle's eyes at the quaint old
woman in her poke bonnet and shawl, driven by a blind man
with a vacant face, and had suspected nothing, when a little
mistake was made and a jar of brandy delivered at a wrong
address. The recipient was an honest gentleman, and in his
anxiety to find the rightful owner of the brandy made
extensive inquiries in his neighbourhood, and eventually the
excisemen got wind of the affair, and on the very next visit
of the old woman and her son to Bath they were captured.
After an examination before a magistrate the son was
discharged on account of his blindness, but the cart and
horses, as well as the smuggled spirits, were confiscated,
and the poor blind man had to make his way on foot to Hindon.
</p>
<p>
Another of his recollections is of a family named Rawlings,
tenants of Lower Pertwood Farm, near Hindon, a lonely,
desolate-looking house hidden away in a deep hollow among the
high downs. The Farmer Rawlings of seventy or eighty years
ago was a man of singular ideas, and that he was permitted to
put them in practice shows that severe as was the law in
those days, and dreadful the punishments inflicted on
offenders, there was a kind of liberty which does not exist
now—the liberty a man had of doing just what he thought
proper in his own house. This Rawlings had a numerous family,
and some died at home and others lived to grow up and go out
into the world under strange names—Faith, Hope, and
Charity were three of his daughters, and Justice, Morality,
and Fortitude three of his sons. Now, for some reason
Rawlings objected to the burial of his dead in the churchyard
of the nearest village—Monkton Deverill, and the story
is that he quarrelled with the rector over the question of
the church bell being tolled for the funeral. He would have
no bell tolled, he swore, and the rector would bury no one
without the bell. Thereupon Rawlings had the coffined corpse
deposited on a table in an outhouse and the door made fast.
Later there was another death, then a third, and all three
were kept in the same place for several years, and although
it was known to the whole countryside no action was taken by
the local authorities.
</p>
<p>
My old informant says that he was often at the farm when he
was a young man, and he used to steal round to the "Dead
House," as it was called, to peep through a crack in the door
and see the three coffins resting on the table in the dim
interior.
</p>
<p>
Eventually the dead disappeared a little while before the
Rawlings gave up the farm, and it was supposed that the old
farmer had buried them in the night-time in one of the
neighbouring chalk-pits, but the spot has never been
discovered.
</p>
<p>
One of the stories of the old Wiltshire days I picked up was
from an old woman, aged eighty-seven, in the Wilton
workhouse. She has a vivid recollection of a labourer named
Reed, in Odstock, a village on the Ebble near Salisbury, a
stern, silent man, who was a marvel of strength and
endurance. The work in which he most delighted was precisely
that which most labourers hated, before threshing machines
came in despite the action of the "mobs"—threshing out
corn with the flail. From earliest dawn till after dark he
would sit or stand in a dim, dusty barn, monotonously
pounding away, without an interval to rest, and without
dinner, and with no food but a piece of bread and a pinch of
salt. Without the salt he would not eat the bread. An hour
after all others had ceased from work he would put on his
coat and trudge home to his wife and family.
</p>
<p>
The woman in the workhouse remembers that once, when Reed was
a very old man past work, he came to their cottage for
something, and while he stood waiting at the entrance, a
little boy ran in and asked his mother for a piece of bread
and butter with sugar on it. Old Reed glared at him, and
shaking his big stick, exclaimed, "I'd give you sugar with
this if you were my boy!" and so terrible did he look in his
anger at the luxury of the times, that the little boy burst
out crying and ran away!
</p>
<p>
What chiefly interested me about this old man was that he was
a deer-stealer of the days when that offence was common in
the country. It was not so great a crime as sheep-stealing,
for which men were hanged; taking a deer was punished with
nothing worse than hard labour, as a rule. But Reed was never
caught; he would labour his full time and steal away after
dark over the downs, to return in the small hours with a deer
on his back. It was not for his own consumption; he wanted
the money for which he sold it in Salisbury; and it is
probable that he was in league with other poachers, as it is
hard to believe that he could capture the animals
single-handed.
</p>
<p>
After his death it was found that old Reed had left a hundred
pounds to each of his two surviving daughters, and it was a
wonder to everybody how he had managed not only to bring up a
family and keep himself out of the workhouse to the end of
his long life, but to leave so large a sum of money. One can
only suppose that he was a rigid economist and never had a
week's illness, and that by abstaining from beer and tobacco
he was able to save a couple of shillings each week out of
his wages of seven or eight shillings; this, in forty years,
would make the two hundred pounds with something over.
</p>
<p>
It is not a very rare thing to find a farm-labourer like old
Reed of Odstock, with not only a strong preference for a
particular kind of work, but a love of it as compelling as
that of an artist for his art. Some friends of mine whom I
went to visit over the border in Dorset told me of an
enthusiast of this description who had recently died in the
village. "What a pity you did not come sooner," they said.
Alas! it is nearly always so; on first coming to stay at a
village one is told that it has but just lost its oldest and
most interesting inhabitant—a relic of the olden time.
</p>
<p>
This man had taken to the scythe as Reed had to the flail,
and was never happy unless he had a field to mow. He was a
very tall old man, so lean that he looked like a skeleton,
the bones covered with a skin as brown as old leather, and he
wore his thin grey hair and snow-white beard very long. He
rode on a white donkey, and was usually seen mounted
galloping down the village street, hatless, his old brown,
bare feet and legs drawn up to keep them from the ground, his
scythe over his shoulder. "Here comes old Father Time," they
would cry, as they called him, and run to the door to gaze
with ever fresh delight at the wonderful old man as he rushed
by, kicking and shouting at his donkey to make him go faster.
He was always in a hurry, hunting for work with furious zeal,
and when he got a field to mow so eager was he that he would
not sleep at home, even if it was close by, but would lie
down on the grass at the side of the field and start working
at dawn, between two and three o'clock, quite three hours
before the world woke up to its daily toil.
</p>
<p>
The name of Reed, the zealous thresher with the flail, serves
to remind me of yet another Reed, a woman who died a few
years ago aged ninety-four, and whose name should be
cherished in one of the downland villages. She was a native
of Barford St. Martin on the Nadder, one of two villages, the
other being Wishford, on the Wylye river, the inhabitants of
which have the right to go into Groveley Wood, an immense
forest on the Wilton estate, to obtain wood for burning, each
person being entitled to take home as much wood as he or she
can carry. The people of Wishford take green wood, but those
of Barford only dead, they having bartered their right at a
remote period to cut growing trees for a yearly sum of five
pounds, which the lord of the manor still pays to the
village, and, in addition, the right to take dead wood.
</p>
<p>
It will be readily understood that this right possessed by
the people of two villages, both situated within a mile of
the forest, has been a perpetual source of annoyance to the
noble owners in modern times, since the strict preservation
of game, especially of pheasants, has grown to be almost a
religion to the landowners. Now it came to pass that about
half a century or longer ago, the Pembroke of that time made
the happy discovery, as he imagined, that there was nothing
to show that the Barford people had any right to the dead
wood. They had been graciously allowed to take it, as was the
case all over the country at that time, and that was all. At
once he issued an edict prohibiting the taking of dead wood
from the forest by the villagers, and great as the loss was
to them they acquiesced; not a man of Barford St. Martin
dared to disobey the prohibition or raise his voice against
it. Grace Reed then determined to oppose the mighty earl, and
accompanied by four other women of the village boldly went to
the wood and gathered their sticks and brought them home.
They were summoned before the magistrates and fined, and on
their refusal to pay were sent to prison; but the very next
day they were liberated and told that a mistake had been
made, that the matter had been inquired into, and it had been
found that the people of Barford did really have the right
they had exercised so long to take dead wood from the forest.
</p>
<p>
As a result of the action of these women the right has not
been challenged since, and on my last visit to Barford, a few
days before writing this chapter, I saw three women coming
down from the forest with as much dead wood as they could
carry on their heads and backs. But how near they came to
losing their right! It was a bold, an unheard-of thing which
they did, and if there had not been a poor cottage woman with
the spirit to do it at the proper moment the right could
never have been revived.
</p>
<p>
Grace Reed's children's children are living at Barford now;
they say that to the very end of her long life she preserved
a very clear memory of the people and events of the village
in the old days early in the last century. They say, too,
that in recalling the far past, the old people and scenes
would present themselves so vividly to her mind that she
would speak of them as of recent things, and would say to
some one fifty years younger than herself, "Can't you
remember it? Surely you haven't forgotten it when 'twas the
talk of the village!"
</p>
<p>
It is a common illusion of the very aged, and I had an
amusing instance of it in my old Hindon friend when he gave
me his first impressions of Bath as he saw it about the year
1835. What astonished him most were the sedan-chairs, for he
had never even heard of such a conveyance, but here in this
city of wonders you met them in every street. Then he added,
"But you've been to Bath and of course you've seen them, and
know all about it."
</p>
<p>
About firewood-gathering by the poor in woods and forests, my
old friend of Fonthill Bishop says that the people of the
villages adjacent to the Fonthill and Great Ridge Woods were
allowed to take as much dead wood as they wanted from those
places. She was accustomed to go to the Great Ridge Wood,
which was even wilder and more like a natural forest in those
days than it is now. It was fully two miles from her village,
a longish distance to carry a heavy load, and it was her
custom after getting the wood out to bind it firmly in a
large barrel-shaped bundle or faggot, as in that way she
could roll it down the smooth steep slopes of the down and so
get her burden home without so much groaning and sweating.
The great wood was then full of hazel-trees, and produced
such an abundance of nuts that from mid-July to September
people flocked to it for the nutting from all the country
round, coming even from Bath and Bristol to load their carts
with nuts in sacks for the market. Later, when the wood began
to be more strictly preserved for sporting purposes, the
rabbits were allowed to increase excessively, and during the
hard winters they attacked the hazel-trees, gnawing off the
bark, until this most useful and profitable wood the forest
produced—the scrubby oaks having little value—was
well-nigh extirpated. By and by pheasants as well as rabbits
were strictly preserved, and the firewood-gatherers were
excluded altogether. At present you find dead wood lying
about all over the place, abundantly as in any primitive
forest, where trees die of old age or disease, or are blown
down or broken off by the winds and are left to rot on the
ground, overgrown with ivy and brambles. But of all this dead
wood not a stick to boil a kettle may be taken by the
neighbouring poor lest the pheasants should be disturbed or a
rabbit be picked up.
</p>
<p>
Some more of the old dame's recollections will be given in
the next chapter, showing what the condition of the people
was in this district about the year 1830, when the poor
farm-labourers were driven by hunger and misery to revolt
against their masters—the farmers who were everywhere
breaking up the downs with the plough to sow more and still
more corn, who were growing very fat and paying higher and
higher rents to their fat landlords, while the wretched men
that drove the plough had hardly enough to satisfy their
hunger.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch17"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER XVII
</h2>
<h3>
OLD WILTSHIRE DAYS—<i>CONTINUED</i>
</h3>
<blockquote>
An old Wiltshire woman's memories—Her home—Work
on a farm—A little
bird-scarer—Housekeeping—The agricultural
labourers' rising—Villagers out of work—Relief
work—A game of ball with barley
bannocks—Sheep-stealing—A poor man
hanged—Temptations to steal—A sheep-stealing
shepherd—A sheep-stealing farmer—Story of
Ebenezer Garlick—A sheep-stealer at Chitterne—The
law and the judges—A "human devil" in a black
cap—How the revolting labourers were punished—A
last scene at Salisbury Court House—Inquest on a
murdered man—Policy of the farmers
</blockquote>
<p>
The story of her early life told by my old friend Joan, aged
ninety-four, will serve to give some idea of the extreme
poverty and hard suffering life of the agricultural labourers
during the thirties of last century, at a time when farmers
were exceedingly prosperous and landlords drawing high rents.
</p>
<p>
She was three years old when her mother died, after the birth
of a boy, the last of eleven children. There was a dame's
school in their little village of Fonthill Abbey, but the
poverty of the family would have made it impossible for Joan
to attend had it not been for an unselfish person residing
there, a Mr. King, who was anxious that every child should be
taught its letters. He paid for little Joan's schooling from
the age of four to eight; and now, in the evening of her
life, when she sits by the fire with her book, she blesses
the memory of the man, dead these seventy or eighty years,
who made this solace possible for her.
</p>
<p>
After the age of eight there could be no more school, for now
all the older children had gone out into the world to make
their own poor living, the boys to work on distant farms, the
girls to service or to be wives, and Joan was wanted at home
to keep house for her father, to do the washing, mending,
cleaning, cooking, and to be mother to her little brother as
well.
</p>
<p>
Her father was a ploughman, at seven shillings a week; but
when Joan was ten he met with a dreadful accident when
ploughing with a couple of young or intractable oxen; in
trying to stop them he got entangled in the ropes and one of
his legs badly broken by the plough. As a result it was six
months before he could leave his cottage. The overseer of the
parish, a prosperous farmer who had a large farm a couple of
miles away, came to inquire into the matter and see what was
to be done. His decision was that the man would receive three
shillings a week until able to start work again, and as that
would just serve to keep him, the children must go out to
work. Meanwhile, one of the married daughters had come to
look after her father in the cottage, and that set the little
ones free.
</p>
<p>
The overseer said he would give them work on his farm and pay
them a few pence apiece and give them their meals; so to his
farm they went, returning each evening home. That was her
first place, and from that time on she was a toiler, indoors
and out, but mainly in the fields, till she was past
eighty-five;—seventy-five years of hard work—then
less and less as her wonderful strength diminished, and her
sons and daughters were getting grey, until now at the age of
ninety-four she does very little—practically nothing.
</p>
<p>
In that first place she had a very hard master in the farmer
and overseer. He was known in all the neighbourhood as "Devil
Turner," and even at that time, when farmers had their men
under their heel as it were, he was noted for his savage
tyrannical disposition; also for a curious sardonic humour,
which displayed itself in the forms of punishment he
inflicted on the workmen who had the ill-luck to offend him.
The man had to take the punishment, however painful or
disgraceful, without a murmur, or go and starve. Every
morning thereafter Joan and her little brother, aged seven,
had to be up in time to get to the farm at five o'clock in
the morning, and if it was raining or snowing or bitterly
cold, so much the worse for them, but they had to be there,
for Devil Turner's bad temper was harder to bear than bad
weather. Joan was a girl of all work, in and out of doors,
and, in severe weather, when there was nothing else for her
to do, she would be sent into the fields to gather flints,
the coldest of all tasks for her little hands.
</p>
<p>
"But what could your little brother, a child of seven, do in
such a place?" I asked.
</p>
<p>
She laughed when she told me of her little brother's very
first day at the farm. The farmer was, for a devil,
considerate, and gave him something very light for a
beginning, which was to scare the birds from the ricks. "And
if they will come back you must catch them," he said, and
left the little fellow to obey the difficult command as he
could. The birds that worried him most were the fowls, for
however often he hunted them away they would come back again.
Eventually, he found some string, with which he made some
little loops fastened to sticks, and these he arranged on a
spot of ground he had cleared, scattering a few grains of
corn on it to attract the "birds." By this means he succeeded
in capturing three of the robbers, and when the farmer came
round at noon to see how he was getting on, the little fellow
showed him his captures. "These are not birds," said the
farmer, "they are fowls, and don't you trouble yourself any
more about them, but keep your eye on the sparrows and little
birds and rooks and jackdaws that come to pull the straws
out."
</p>
<p>
That was how he started; then from the ricks to bird-scaring
in the fields and to other tasks suited to one of his age,
not without much suffering and many tears. The worst
experience was the punishment of standing motionless for long
hours at a time on a chair placed out in the yard, full in
sight of the windows of the house, so that he could be seen
by the inmates; the hardest, the cruellest task that could be
imposed on him would come as a relief after this. Joan
suffered no punishment of that kind; she was very anxious to
please her master and worked hard; but she was an intelligent
and spirited child, and as the sole result of her best
efforts was that more and more work was put on her, she
revolted against such injustice, and eventually, tried beyond
endurance, she ran away home and refused to go back to the
farm any more. She found some work in the village; for now
her sister had to go back to her husband, and Joan had to
take her place and look after her father and the house as
well as earn something to supplement the three shillings a
week they had to live on.
</p>
<p>
After about nine months her father was up and out again and
went back to the plough; for just then a great deal of down
was being broken up and brought under cultivation on account
of the high price of wheat and good ploughmen were in
request. He was lame, the injured limb being now considerably
shorter than the other, and when ploughing he could only
manage to keep on his legs by walking with the longer one in
the furrow and the other on the higher ground. But after
struggling on for some months in this way, suffering much
pain and his strength declining, he met with a fresh accident
and was laid up once more in his cottage, and from that time
until his death he did no more farm work. Joan and her little
brother lived or slept at home and worked to keep themselves
and him.
</p>
<p>
Now in this, her own little story, and in her account of the
condition of the people at that time; also in the histories
of other old men and women whose memories go back as far as
hers, supplemented by a little reading in the newspapers of
that day, I can understand how it came about that these poor
labourers, poor, spiritless slaves as they had been made by
long years of extremest poverty and systematic oppression,
rose at last against their hard masters and smashed the
agricultural machines, and burnt ricks and broke into houses
to destroy and plunder their contents. It was a desperate, a
mad adventure—these gatherings of half-starved yokels,
armed with sticks and axes, and they were quickly put down
and punished in a way that even William the Bastard would not
have considered as too lenient. But oppression had made them
mad; the introduction of thrashing machines was but the last
straw, the culminating act of the hideous system followed by
landlords and their tenants—the former to get the
highest possible rent for his land, the other to get his
labour at the lowest possible rate. It was a compact between
landlord and tenant aimed against the labourer. It was not
merely the fact that the wages of a strong man were only
seven shillings a week at the outside, a sum barely
sufficient to keep him and his family from starvation and
rags (as a fact it was not enough, and but for a little
poaching and stealing he could not have lived), but it was
customary, especially on the small farms, to get rid of the
men after the harvest and leave them to exist the best way
they could during the bitter winter months. Thus every
village, as a rule, had its dozen or twenty or more men
thrown out each year—good steady men, with families
dependent on them; and besides these there were the aged and
weaklings and the lads who had not yet got a place. The
misery of these out-of-work labourers was extreme. They would
go to the woods and gather faggots of dead wood, which they
would try to sell in the villages; but there were few who
could afford to buy of them; and at night they would skulk
about the fields to rob a swede or two to satisfy the
cravings of hunger.
</p>
<p>
In some parishes the farmer overseers were allowed to give
relief work—out of the rates, it goes without
saying—to these unemployed men of the village who had
been discharged in October or November and would be wanted
again when the winter was over. They would be put to
flint-gathering in the fields, their wages being four
shillings a week. Some of the very old people of Winterbourne
Bishop, when speaking of the principal food of the labourers
at that time, the barley bannock and its exceeding toughness,
gave me an amusing account of a game of balls invented by the
flint-gatherers, just for the sake of a little fun during
their long weary day in the fields, especially in cold,
frosty weather. The men would take their dinners with them,
consisting of a few barley balls or cakes, in their coat
pockets, and at noon they would gather at one spot to enjoy
their meal, and seat themselves on the ground in a very wide
circle, the men about ten yards apart, then each one would
produce his bannocks and start throwing, aiming at some other
man's face; there were hits and misses and great excitement
and hilarity for twenty or thirty minutes, after which the
earth and gravel adhering to the balls would be wiped off,
and they would set themselves to the hard task of masticating
and swallowing the heavy stuff.
</p>
<p>
At sunset they would go home to a supper of more barley
bannocks, washed down with hot water flavoured with some
aromatic herb or weed, and then straight to bed to get warm,
for there was little firing.
</p>
<p>
It was not strange that sheep-stealing was one of the
commonest offences against the law at that time, in spite of
the dreadful penalty. Hunger made the people reckless. My old
friend Joan, and other old persons, have said to me that it
appeared in those days that the men were strangely
indifferent and did not seem to care whether they were hanged
or not. It is true they did not hang very many of
them—the judge, as a rule, after putting on his black
cap and ordering them to the gallows, would send in a
recommendation to mercy for most of them; but the mercy of
that time was like that of the wicked, exceedingly cruel.
Instead of swinging, it was transportation for life, or for
fourteen, and, at the very least, seven years. Those who have
read Clarke's terrible book "For the Term of His Natural
Life" know (in a way) what these poor Wiltshire labourers,
who in most cases were never more heard of by their wives and
children, were sent to endure in Australia and Tasmania.
</p>
<p>
And some were hanged; my friend Joan named some people she
knows in the neighbourhood who are the grandchildren of a
young man with a wife and family of small children who was
hanged at Salisbury. She had a vivid recollection of this
case because it had seemed so hard, the man having been
maddened by want when he took a sheep; also because when he
was hanged his poor young wife travelled to the place of
slaughter to beg for his body, and had it brought home and
buried decently in the village churchyard.
</p>
<p>
How great the temptation to steal sheep must have been,
anyone may know now by merely walking about among the fields
in this part of the country to see how the sheep are folded
and left by night unguarded, often at long distances from the
village, in distant fields and on the downs. Even in the
worst times it was never customary, never thought necessary,
to guard the flock by night. Many cases could be given to
show how easy it was to steal sheep. One quite recent, about
twenty years ago, is of a shepherd who was frequently sent
with sheep to the fairs, and who on his way to Wilton fair
with a flock one night turned aside to open a fold and let
out nineteen sheep. On arriving at the fair he took out the
stolen sheep and sold them to a butcher of his acquaintance
who sent them up to London. But he had taken too many from
one flock; they were quickly missed, and by some lucky chance
it was found out and the shepherd arrested. He was sentenced
to eight months' hard labour, and it came out during the
trial that this poor shepherd, whose wages were fourteen
shillings a week, had a sum of L400 to his credit in a
Salisbury bank!
</p>
<p>
Another case which dates far back is that of a farmer named
Day, who employed a shepherd or drover to take sheep to the
fairs and markets and steal sheep for him on the way. It is
said that he went on at this game for years before it was
discovered. Eventually master and man quarrelled and the
drover gave information, whereupon Day was arrested and
lodged in Fisherton Jail at Salisbury. Later he was sent to
take his trial at Devizes, on horseback, accompanied by two
constables. At the "Druid's Head," a public-house on the way,
the three travellers alighted for refreshments, and there Day
succeeded in giving them the slip, and jumping on a fast
horse, standing ready saddled for him, made his escape.
Farmer Day never returned to the Plain and was never heard of
again.
</p>
<p>
There is an element of humour in some of the sheep-stealing
stories of the old days. At one village where I often stayed,
I heard about a certain Ebenezer Garlick, who was commonly
called, in allusion no doubt to his surname, "Sweet Vi'lets."
He was a sober, hard-working man, an example to most, but
there was this against him, that he cherished a very close
friendship with a poor, disreputable, drunken loafer
nicknamed "Flittermouse," who spent most of his time hanging
about the old coaching inn at the place for the sake of tips.
Sweet Vi'lets was always giving coppers and sixpences to this
man, but one day they fell out when Flittermouse begged for a
shilling. He must, he said, have a shilling, he couldn't do
with less, and when the other refused he followed him,
demanding the money with abusive words, to everybody's
astonishment. Finally Sweet Vi'lets turned on him and told
him to go to the devil. Flittermouse in a rage went straight
to the constable and denounced his patron as a sheep-stealer.
He, Flittermouse, had been his servant and helper, and on the
very last occasion of stealing a sheep he had got rid of the
skin and offal by throwing them down an old disused well at
the top of the village street. To the well the constable went
with ropes and hooks, and succeeded in fishing up the remains
described, and he thereupon arrested Garlick and took him
before a magistrate, who committed him for trial.
Flittermouse was the only witness for the prosecution, and
the judge in his summing up said that, taking into
consideration Garlick's known character in the village as a
sober, diligent, honest man, it would be a little too much to
hang him on the unsupported testimony of a creature like
Flittermouse, who was half fool and half scoundrel. The jury,
pleased and very much surprised at being directed to let a
man off, obediently returned a verdict of Not Guilty, and
Sweet Vi'lets returned from Salisbury triumphant, to be
congratulated on his escape by all the villagers, who,
however, slyly winked and smiled at one another.
</p>
<p>
Of sheep-stealing stories I will relate one more—a case
which never came into court and was never discovered. It was
related to me by a middle-aged man, a shepherd of Warminster,
who had it from his father, a shepherd of Chitterne, one of
the lonely, isolated villages on Salisbury Plain, between the
Avon and the Wylye. His father had it from the person who
committed the crime and was anxious to tell it to some one,
and knew that the shepherd was his true friend, a silent,
safe man. He was a farm-labourer, named Shergold—one of
the South Wiltshire surnames very common in the early part of
last century, which now appear to be dying
out—described as a very big, powerful man, full of life
and energy. He had a wife and several young children to keep,
and the time was near mid-winter; Shergold was out of work,
having been discharged from the farm at the end of the
harvest; it was an exceptionally cold season and there was no
food and no firing in the house.
</p>
<p>
One evening in late December a drover arrived at Chitterne
with a flock of sheep which he was driving to Tilshead,
another downland village several miles away. He was anxious
to get to Tilshead that night and wanted a man to help him.
Shergold was on the spot and undertook to go with him for the
sum of fourpence. They set out when it was getting dark; the
sheep were put on the road, the drover going before the flock
and Shergold following at the tail. It was a cold, cloudy
night, threatening snow, and so dark that he could hardly
distinguish the dim forms of even the hindmost sheep, and by
and by the temptation to steal one assailed him. For how easy
it would be for him to do it! With his tremendous strength he
could kill and hide a sheep very quickly without making any
sound whatever to alarm the drover. He was very far ahead;
Shergold could judge the distance by the sound of his voice
when he uttered a call or shout from time to time, and by the
barking of the dog, as he flew up and down, first on one side
of the road, then on the other, to keep the flock well on it.
And he thought of what a sheep would be to him and to his
hungry ones at home until the temptation was too strong, and
suddenly lifting his big, heavy stick he brought it down with
such force on the head of a sheep as to drop it with its
skull crushed, dead as a stone. Hastily picking it up he ran
a few yards away, and placed it among the furze-bushes,
intending to take it home on his way back, and then returned
to the flock.
</p>
<p>
They arrived at Tilshead in the small hours, and after
receiving his fourpence he started for home, walking rapidly
and then running to be in time, but when he got back to where
the sheep was lying the dawn was coming, and he knew that
before he could get to Chitterne with that heavy burden on
his back people would be getting up in the village and he
would perhaps be seen. The only thing to do was to hide the
sheep and return for it on the following night. Accordingly
he carried it away a couple of hundred yards to a pit or
small hollow in the down full of bramble and furze-bushes,
and here he concealed it, covering it with a mass of dead
bracken and herbage, and left it. That afternoon the
long-threatening snow began to fall, and with snow on the
ground he dared not go to recover his sheep, since his
footprints would betray him; he must wait once more for the
snow to melt. But the snow fell all night, and what must his
feelings have been when he looked at it still falling in the
morning and knew that he could have gone for the sheep with
safety, since all traces would have been quickly obliterated!
</p>
<p>
Once more there was nothing to do but wait patiently for the
snow to cease falling and for the thaw. But how intolerable
it was; for the weather continued bitterly cold for many
days, and the whole country was white. During those hungry
days even that poor comfort of sleeping or dozing away the
time was denied him, for the danger of discovery was ever
present to his mind, and Shergold was not one of the callous
men who had become indifferent to their fate; it was his
first crime, and he loved his own life and his wife and
children, crying to him for food. And the food for them was
lying there on the down, close by, and he could not get it!
Roast mutton, boiled mutton—mutton in a dozen delicious
forms—the thought of it was as distressing, as
maddening, as that of the peril he was in.
</p>
<p>
It was a full fortnight before the wished thaw came; then
with fear and trembling he went for his sheep, only to find
that it had been pulled to pieces and the flesh devoured by
dogs and foxes!
</p>
<p>
From these memories of the old villagers I turn to the
newspapers of the day to make a few citations.
</p>
<p>
The law as it was did not distinguish between a case of the
kind just related, of the starving, sorely tempted Shergold,
and that of the systematic thief: sheep-stealing was a
capital offence and the man must hang, unless recommended to
mercy, and we know what was meant by "mercy" in those days.
That so barbarous a law existed within memory of people to be
found living in most villages appears almost incredible to
us; but despite the recommendations to "mercy" usual in a
large majority of cases, the law of that time was not more
horrible than the temper of the men who administered it.
There are good and bad among all, and in all professions, but
there is also a black spot in most, possibly in all hearts,
which may be developed to almost any extent, and change the
justest, wisest, most moral men into "human devils"—the
phrase invented by Canon Wilberforce in another connexion. In
reading the old reports and the expressions used by the
judges in their summings up and sentences, it is impossible
not to believe that the awful power they possessed, and its
constant exercise, had not only produced the inevitable
hardening effect, but had made them cruel in the true sense
of the word. Their pleasure in passing dreadful sentences was
very thinly disguised, indeed, by certain lofty conventional
phrases as to the necessity of upholding the law, morality,
and religion; they were, indeed, as familiar with the name of
the Deity as any ranter in a conventicle, and the "enormity
of the crime" was an expression as constantly used in the
case of the theft of a loaf of bread, or of an old coat left
hanging on a hedge, by some ill-clad, half-starved wretch, as
in cases of burglary, arson, rape, and murder.
</p>
<p>
It is surprising to find how very few the real crimes were in
those days, despite the misery of the people; that nearly all
the "crimes" for which men were sentenced to the gallows and
to transportation for life, or for long terms, were offences
which would now be sufficiently punished by a few weeks', or
even a few days', imprisonment. Thus in April 1825, I note
that Mr. Justice Park commented on the heavy appearance of
the calendar. It was not so much the number (170) of the
offenders that excited his concern as it was the nature of
the crimes with which they were charged. The worst crime in
this instance was sheep-stealing!
</p>
<p>
Again, this same Mr. Justice Park, at the Spring Assizes at
Salisbury 1827, said that though the calendar was a heavy
one, he was happy to find on looking at the depositions of
the principal cases, that they were not of a very serious
character. Nevertheless he passed sentence of death on
twenty-eight persons, among them being one for stealing half
a crown!
</p>
<p>
Of the twenty-eight all but three were eventually reprieved,
one of the fated three being a youth of nineteen, who was
charged with stealing a mare and pleaded guilty in spite of a
warning from the judge not to do so. This irritated the great
man who had the power of life and death in his hand. In
passing sentence the judge "expatiated on the prevalence of
the crime of horse-stealing and the necessity of making an
example. The enormity of Read's crime rendered him a proper
example, and he would therefore hold out no hope of mercy
towards him." As to the plea of guilty, he remarked that
nowadays too many persons pleaded guilty, deluded with the
hope that it would be taken into consideration and they would
escape the severer penalty. He was determined to put a stop
to that sort of thing; if Read had not pleaded guilty no
doubt some extenuating circumstance would have come up during
the trial and he would have saved his life.
</p>
<p>
There, if ever, spoke the "human devil" in a black cap!
</p>
<p>
I find another case of a sentence of transportation for life
on a youth of eighteen, named Edward Baker, for stealing a
pocket-handkerchief. Had he pleaded guilty it might have been
worse for him.
</p>
<p>
At the Salisbury Spring Assizes, 1830, Mr. Justice Gazalee,
addressing the grand jury, said that none of the crimes
appeared to be marked with circumstances of great moral
turpitude. The prisoners numbered one hundred and thirty; he
passed sentences of death on twenty-nine, life
transportations on five, fourteen years on five, seven years
on eleven, and various terms of hard labour on the others.
</p>
<p>
The severity of the magistrates at the quarter-sessions was
equally revolting. I notice in one case, where the leading
magistrate on the bench was a great local magnate, an M.P.
for Salisbury, etc., a poor fellow with the unfortunate name
of Moses Snook was charged with stealing a plank ten feet
long, the property of the aforesaid local magnate, M.P.,
etc., and sentenced to fourteen years' transportation.
Sentenced by the man who owned the plank, worth perhaps a
shilling or two!
</p>
<p>
When such was the law of the land and the temper of those who
administered it—judges and magistrates or
landlords—what must the misery of the people have been
to cause them to rise in revolt against their masters! They
did nothing outrageous even in the height of their frenzy;
they smashed the thrashing machines, burnt some ricks, while
the maddest of them broke into a few houses and destroyed
their contents; but they injured no man; yet they knew what
they were facing—the gallows or transportation to the
penal settlements ready for their reception at the Antipodes.
It is a pity that the history of this rising of the
agricultural labourer, the most patient and submissive of
men, has never been written. Nothing, in fact, has ever been
said of it except from the point of view of landowners and
farmers, but there is ample material for a truer and a moving
narrative, not only in the brief reports in the papers of the
time, but also in the memories of many persons still living,
and of their children and children's children, preserved in
many a cottage throughout the south of England.
</p>
<p>
Hopeless as the revolt was and quickly suppressed, it had
served to alarm the landlords and their tenants, and taken in
conjunction with other outbreaks, notably at Bristol, it
produced a sense of anxiety in the mind of the country
generally. The feeling found a somewhat amusing expression in
the House of Commons, in a motion of Mr. Perceval, on 14th
February 1831. This was to move an address to His Majesty to
appoint a day for a general fast throughout the United
Kingdom. He said that "the state of the country called for a
measure like this—that it was a state of political and
religious disorganization—that the elements of the
Constitution were being hourly loosened—that in this
land there was no attachment, no control, no humility of
spirit, no mutual confidence between the poor man and the
rich, the employer and the employed; but fear and mistrust
and aversion, where, in the time of our fathers, there was
nothing but brotherly love and rejoicing before the Lord."
</p>
<p>
The House was cynical and smilingly put the matter by, but
the anxiety was manifested plainly enough in the treatment
meted out to the poor men who had been arrested and were
tried before the Special Commissions sent down to Salisbury,
Winchester, and other towns. No doubt it was a pleasant time
for the judges; at Salisbury thirty-four poor fellows were
sentenced to death; thirty-three to be transported for life,
ten for fourteen years, and so on.
</p>
<p>
And here is one last little scene about which the reports in
the newspapers of the time say nothing, but which I have from
one who witnessed and clearly remembers it, a woman of
ninety-five, whose whole life has been passed at a village
within sound of the Salisbury Cathedral bells.
</p>
<p>
It was when the trial was ended, when those who were found
guilty and had been sentenced were brought out of the
court-house to be taken back to prison, and from all over the
Plain and from all parts of Wiltshire their womenfolk had
come to learn their fate, and were gathered, a pale, anxious,
weeping crowd, outside the gates. The sentenced men came out
looking eagerly at the people until they recognized their own
and cried out to them to be of good cheer. "'Tis hanging for
me," one would say, "but there'll perhaps be a recommendation
to mercy, so don't you fret till you know." Then another:
"Don't go on so, old mother, 'tis only for life I'm sent."
And yet another: "Don't you cry, old girl, 'tis only fourteen
years I've got, and maybe I'll live to see you all again."
And so on, as they filed out past their weeping women on
their way to Fisherton Jail, to be taken thence to the
transports in Portsmouth and Plymouth harbours waiting to
convey their living freights to that hell on earth so far
from home. Not criminals but good, brave men were
these!—Wiltshiremen of that strong, enduring, patient
class, who not only as labourers on the land but on many a
hard-fought field in many parts of the world from of old down
to our war of a few years ago in Africa, have shown the stuff
that was in them!
</p>
<p>
But, alas! for the poor women who were left—for the old
mother who could never hope to see her boy again, and for the
wife and her children who waited and hoped against hope
through long toiling years,
</p>
<p>
And dreamed and started as they slept<br>
For joy that he was come,
</p>
<p>
but waking saw his face no more. Very few, so far as I can
make out, not more than one in five or six, ever returned.
</p>
<p>
This, it may be said, was only what they might have expected,
the law being what it was—just the ordinary thing. The
hideous part of the business was that, as an effect of the
alarm created in the minds of those who feared injury to
their property and loss of power to oppress the poor
labourers, there was money in plenty subscribed to hire
witnesses for the prosecution. It was necessary to strike
terror into the people. The smell of blood-money brought out
a number of scoundrels who for a few pounds were only too
ready to swear away the life of any man, and it was notorious
that numbers of poor fellows were condemned in this way.
</p>
<p>
One incident as to this point may be given in conclusion of
this chapter about old unhappy things. It relates not to one
of those who were sentenced to the gallows or to
transportation, but to an inquest and the treatment of the
dead.
</p>
<p>
I have spoken in the last chapter of the mob that visited
Hindon, Fonthill, and other villages. They ended their round
at Pytt House, near Tisbury, where they broke up the
machinery. On that occasion a body of yeomanry came on the
scene, but arrived only after the mob had accomplished its
purpose of breaking up the thrashing machines. When the
troops appeared the "rioters," as they were called, made off
into the woods and escaped; but before they fled one of them
had met his death. A number of persons from the farms and
villages around had gathered at the spot and were looking on,
when one, a farmer from the neighbouring village of Chilmark,
snatched a gun from a gamekeeper's hand and shot one of the
rioters, killing him dead. On 27th January 1831 an inquest
was held on the body, and some one was found to swear that
the man had been shot by one of the yeomanry, although it was
known to everybody that, when the man was shot, the troop had
not yet arrived on the scene. The man, this witness stated,
had attacked, or threatened, one of the soldiers with his
stick, and had been shot. This was sufficient for the
coroner; he instructed his jury to bring in a verdict of
"Justifiable homicide," which they obediently did. "This
verdict," the coroner then said, "entailed the same
consequences as an act of <i>felo-de-se</i>, and he felt that
he could not give a warrant for the burial of the deceased.
However painful the duty devolved on him in thus adding to
the sorrows of the surviving relations, the law appeared too
clear to him to admit of an alternative."
</p>
<p>
The coroner was just as eager as the judges to exhibit his
zeal for the gentry, who were being injured in their
interests by these disturbances; and though he could not hang
anybody, being only a coroner, he could at any rate kick the
one corpse brought before him. Doubtless the "surviving
relations," for whose sorrows he had expressed sympathy,
carried the poor murdered man off by night to hide him
somewhere in the earth.
</p>
<p>
After the law had been thus vindicated and all the business
done with, even to the corpse-kicking by the coroner, the
farmers were still anxious, and began to show it by holding
meetings and discussions on the condition of the labourers.
Everybody said that the men had been very properly punished;
but at the same time it was admitted that they had some
reason for their discontent, that, with bread so dear, it was
hardly possible for a man with a family to support himself on
seven shillings a week, and it was generally agreed to raise
the wages one shilling. But by and by when the anxiety had
quite died out, when it was found that the men were more
submissive than they had ever been, the lesson they had
received having sunk deep into their minds, they cut off the
extra shilling and wages were what they had been—seven
shillings a week for a hard-working seasoned labourer, with a
family to keep, and from four to six shillings for young
unmarried men and for women, even for those who did as much
work in the field as any man.
</p>
<p>
But there were no more risings.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch18"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER XVIII
</h2>
<h3>
THE SHEPHERD'S RETURN
</h3>
<blockquote>
Yarnborough Castle sheep-fair—Caleb leaves Doveton and
goes into Dorset—A land of strange happenings—He
is home-sick and returns to Winterbourne Bishop—Joseph,
his brother, leaves home—His meeting with Caleb's old
master—Settles in Dorset and is joined by his sister
Hannah—They marry and have children—I go to look
for them—Joseph Bawcombe in extreme old
age—Hannah in decline
</blockquote>
<p>
Caleb's shepherding period in Doveton came to a somewhat
sudden conclusion. It was nearing the end of August and he
was beginning to think about the sheep which would have to be
taken to the "Castle" sheep-fair on 5th October, and it
appeared strange to him that his master had so far said
nothing to him on the subject. By "Castle" he meant
Yarnborough Castle, the name of a vast prehistoric earthwork
on one of the high downs between Warminster and Amesbury.
There is no village there and no house near; it is nothing
but an immense circular wall and trench, inside of which the
fair is held. It was formerly one of the most important
sheep-fairs in the country, but for the last two or three
decades has been falling off and is now of little account.
When Bawcombe was shepherd at Doveton it was still great, and
when he first went there as Mr. Ellerby's head-shepherd he
found himself regarded as a person of considerable importance
at the Castle. Before setting out with the sheep he asked for
his master's instructions, and was told that when he got to
the ground he would be directed by the persons in charge to
the proper place. The Ellerbys, he said, had exhibited and
sold their sheep there for a period of eighty-eight years,
without missing a year, and always at the same spot. Every
person visiting the fair on business knew just where to find
the Ellerbys' sheep, and, he added with pride, they expected
them to be the best sheep at the Castle.
</p>
<p>
One day Mr. Ellerby came to have a talk with his shepherd,
and in reply to a remark of the latter about the October
sheep-fair he said that he would have no sheep to send. "No
sheep to send, master!" exclaimed Caleb in amazement. Then
Mr. Ellerby told him that he had taken a notion into his head
that he wanted to go abroad with his wife for a time, and
that some person had just made him so good an offer for all
his sheep that he was going to accept it, so that for the
first time in eighty-eight years there would be no sheep from
Doveton Farm at the Castle fair. When he came back he would
buy again; but if he could live away from the farm, he would
probably never come back—he would sell it.
</p>
<p>
Caleb went home with a heavy heart and told his wife. It
grieved her, too, because of her feeling for Mrs. Ellerby,
but in a little while she set herself to comfort him. "Why,
what's wrong about it?" she asked. "'Twill be more 'n three
months before the year's out, and master'll pay for all the
time sure, and we can go home to Bishop and bide a little
without work, and see if that father of yours has forgiven
'ee for going away to Warminster."
</p>
<p>
So they comforted themselves, and were beginning to think
with pleasure of home when Mr. Ellerby informed his shepherd
that a friend of his, a good man though not a rich one, was
anxious to take him as head-shepherd, with good wages and a
good cottage rent free. The only drawback for the Bawcombes
was that it would take them still farther from home, for the
farm was in Dorset, although quite near the Wiltshire border.
</p>
<p>
Eventually they accepted the offer, and by the middle of
September were once more settled down in what was to them a
strange land. How strange it must have seemed to Caleb, how
far removed from home and all familiar things, when even to
this day, more than forty years later, he speaks of it as the
ordinary modern man might speak of a year's residence in
Uganda, Tierra del Fuego, or the Andaman Islands! It was a
foreign country, and the ways of the people were strange to
him, and it was a land of very strange things. One of the
strangest was an old ruined church in the neighbourhood of
the farm where he was shepherd. It was roofless, more than
half fallen down, and all the standing portion, with the
tower, overgrown with old ivy; the building itself stood in
the centre of a huge round earthwork and trench, with large
barrows on the ground outside the circle. Concerning this
church he had a wonderful story: its decay and ruin had come
about after the great bell in the tower had mysteriously
disappeared, stolen one stormy night, it was believed, by the
Devil himself. The stolen bell, it was discovered, had been
flung into a small river at a distance of some miles from the
church, and there in summer-time, when the water was low, it
could be distinctly seen lying half buried in the mud at the
bottom. But all the king's horses and all the king's men
couldn't pull it out; the Devil, who pulled the other way,
was strongest. Eventually some wise person said that a team
of white oxen would be able to pull it out, and after much
seeking the white oxen were obtained, and thick ropes were
tied to the sunken bell, and the cattle were goaded and
yelled at, and tugged and strained until the bell came up and
was finally drawn right up to the top of the steep,
cliff-like bank of the stream. Then one of the teamsters
shouted in triumph, "Now we've got out the bell, in spite of
all the devils in hell," and no sooner had he spoken the bold
words than the ropes parted, and back tumbled the bell to its
old place at the bottom of the river, where it remains to
this day. Caleb had once met a man in those parts who assured
him that he had seen the bell with his own eyes, lying nearly
buried in mud at the bottom of the stream.
</p>
<p>
The legend is not in the history of Dorset; a much more
prosaic account of the disappearance of the bell is there
given, in which the Devil took no part unless he was at the
back of the bad men who were concerned in the business. But
in this strange, remote country, outside of "Wiltsheer,"
Bawcombe was in a region where anything might have happened,
where the very soil and pasture were unlike that of his
native country, and the mud adhered to his boots in a most
unaccountable way. It was almost uncanny. Doubtless he was
home-sick, for a month or two before the end of the year he
asked his master to look out for another shepherd.
</p>
<p>
This was a great disappointment to the farmer: he had gone a
distance from home to secure a good shepherd, and had hoped
to keep him permanently, and now after a single year he was
going to lose him. What did the shepherd want? He would do
anything to please him, and begged him to stay another year.
But no, his mind was set on going back to his own native
village and to his own people. And so when his long year was
ended he took his crook and set out over the hills and
valleys, followed by a cart containing his "sticks" and wife
and children. And at home with his old parents and his people
he was happy once more; in a short time he found a place as
head-shepherd, with a cottage in the village, and followed
his flock on the old familiar down, and everything again was
as it had been from the beginning of life and as he desired
it to be even to the end.
</p>
<p>
His return resulted incidentally in other changes and
migrations in the Bawcombe family. His elder brother Joseph,
unmarried still although his senior by about eight years, had
not got on well at home. He was a person of a peculiar
disposition, so silent with so fixed and unsmiling an
expression, that he gave the idea of a stolid, thick-skinned
man, but at bottom he was of a sensitive nature, and feeling
that his master did not treat him properly, he gave up his
place and was for a long time without one. He was singularly
attentive to all that fell from Caleb about his wide
wanderings and strange experiences, especially in the distant
Dorset country; and at length, about a year after his
brother's return, he announced his intention of going away
from his native place for good to seek his fortune in some
distant place where his services would perhaps be better
appreciated. When asked where he intended going, he answered
that he was going to look for a place in that part of Dorset
where Caleb had been shepherd for a year and had been so
highly thought of.
</p>
<p>
Now Joseph, being a single man, had no "sticks"; all his
possessions went into a bundle, which he carried tied to his
crook, and with his sheep-dog following at his heels he set
forth early one morning on the most important adventure of
his life. Then occurred an instance of what we call a
coincidence, but which the shepherd of the downs, nursed in
the old beliefs and traditions, prefers to regard as an act
of providence.
</p>
<p>
About noon he was trudging along in the turnpike road when he
was met by a farmer driving in a trap, who pulled up to speak
to him and asked him if he could say how far it was to
Winterbourne Bishop. Joseph replied that it was about
fourteen miles—he had left Bishop that morning.
</p>
<p>
Then the farmer asked him if he knew a man there named Caleb
Bawcombe, and if he had a place as shepherd there, as he was
now on his way to look for him and to try and persuade him to
go back to Dorset, where he had been his head-shepherd for
the space of a year.
</p>
<p>
Joseph said that Caleb had a place as head-shepherd on a farm
at Bishop, that he was satisfied with it, and was, moreover,
one that preferred to bide in his native place.
</p>
<p>
The farmer was disappointed, and the other added, "Maybe
you've heard Caleb speak of his elder brother Joseph—I
be he."
</p>
<p>
"What!" exclaimed the farmer. "You're Caleb's brother! Where
be going then?—to a new place?"
</p>
<p>
"I've got no place; I be going to look for a place in
Dorsetsheer."
</p>
<p>
"'Tis strange to hear you say that," exclaimed the farmer. He
was going, he said, to see Caleb, and if he would not or
could not go back to Dorset himself to ask him to recommend
some man of the village to him; for he was tired of the ways
of the shepherds of his own part of the country, and his
heart was set on getting a man from Caleb's village, where
shepherds understood sheep and knew their work. "Now look
here, shepherd," he continued, "if you'll engage yourself to
me for a year I'll go no farther, but take you right back
with me in the trap."
</p>
<p>
The shepherd was very glad to accept the offer; he devoutly
believed that in making it the farmer was but acting in
accordance with the will of a Power that was mindful of man
and kept watch on him, even on His poor servant Joseph, who
had left his home and people to be a stranger in a strange
land.
</p>
<p>
So well did servant and master agree that Joseph never had
occasion to look for another place; when his master died an
old man, his son succeeded him as tenant of the farm, and he
continued with the son until he was past work. Before his
first year was out, his younger sister, Hannah, came to live
with him and keep house, and eventually they both got
married, Joseph to a young woman of the place, and Hannah to
a small working farmer whose farm was about a mile from the
village. Children were born to both, and in time grew up,
Joseph's sons following their father's vocation, while
Hannah's were brought up to work on the farm. And some of
them, too, got married in time and had children of their own.
</p>
<p>
These are the main incidents in the lives of Joseph and
Hannah, related to me at different times by their brother; he
had followed their fortunes from a distance, sometimes
getting a message, or hearing of them incidentally, but he
did not see them. Joseph never returned to his native
village, and the visits of Hannah to her old home had been
few and had long ceased. But he cherished a deep enduring
affection for both; he was always anxiously waiting and
hoping for tidings of them, for Joseph was now a feeble old
man living with one of his sons, and Hannah, long a widow,
was in declining health, but still kept the farm, assisted by
one of her sons and two unmarried daughters. Though he had
not heard for a long time it never occurred to him to write,
nor did they ever write to him.
</p>
<p>
Then, when I was staying at Winterbourne Bishop and had the
intention of shortly paying a visit to Caleb, it occurred to
me one day to go into Dorset and look for these absent ones,
so as to be able to give him an account of their state. It
was not a long journey, and arrived at the village I soon
found a son of Joseph, a fine-looking man, who took me to his
cottage, where his wife led me into the old shepherd's room.
I found him very aged in appearance, with a grey face and
sunken cheeks, lying on his bed and breathing with
difficulty; but when I spoke to him of Caleb a light of joy
came into his eyes, and he raised himself on his pillows, and
questioned me eagerly about his brother's state and family,
and begged me to assure Caleb that he was still quite well,
although too feeble to get about much, and that his children
were taking good care of him.
</p>
<p>
From the old brother I went on to seek the young
sister—there was a difference of more than twenty years
in their respective ages—and found her at dinner in the
large old farm-house kitchen. At all events she was
presiding, the others present being her son, their hired
labourer, the farm boy, and two unmarried daughters. She
herself tasted no food. I joined them at their meal, and it
gladdened and saddened me at the same time to be with this
woman, for she was Caleb's sister, and was attractive in
herself, looking strangely young for her age, with beautiful
dark, soft eyes and but few white threads in her abundant
black hair. The attraction was also in her voice and speech
and manner; but, alas! there was that in her face which was
painful to witness—the signs of long suffering, of
nights that bring no refreshment, an expression in the eyes
of one that is looking anxiously out into the dim
distance—a vast unbounded prospect, but with clouds and
darkness resting on it.
</p>
<p>
It was not without a feeling of heaviness at the heart that I
said good-bye to her; nor was I surprised when, less than a
year later, Caleb received news of her death.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch19"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER XIX
</h2>
<h3>
THE DARK PEOPLE OF THE VILLAGE
</h3>
<blockquote>
How the materials for this book were obtained—The
hedgehog-hunter—A gipsy taste—History of a
dark-skinned family—Hedgehog eaters—Half-bred and
true gipsies—Perfect health—Eating
carrion—Mysterious knowledge and faculties—The
three dark Wiltshire types—Story of another dark man of
the village—Account of Liddy—His
shepherding—A happy life with horses—Dies of a
broken heart—His daughter
</blockquote>
<p>
I have sometimes laughed to myself when thinking how a large
part of the material composing this book was collected. It
came to me in conversations, at intervals, during several
years, with the shepherd. In his long life in his native
village, a good deal of it spent on the quiet down, he had
seen many things it was or would be interesting to hear; the
things which had interested him, too, at the time, and had
fallen into oblivion, yet might be recovered. I discovered
that it was of little use to question him: the one valuable
recollection he possessed on any subject would, as a rule,
not be available when wanted; it would lie just beneath the
surface so to speak, and he would pass and repass over the
ground without seeing it. He would not know that it was
there; it would be like the acorn which a jay or squirrel has
hidden and forgotten all about, which he will nevertheless
recover some day if by chance something occurs to remind him
of it. The only method was to talk about the things he knew,
and when by chance he was reminded of some old experience or
some little observation or incident worth hearing, to make a
note of it, then wait patiently for something else. It was a
very slow process, but it is not unlike the one we practise
always with regard to wild nature. We are not in a hurry, but
are always watchful, with eyes and ears and mind open to what
may come; it is a mental habit, and when nothing comes we are
not disappointed—the act of watching has been a
sufficient pleasure: and when something does come we take it
joyfully as if it were a gift—a valuable object picked
up by chance in our walks.
</p>
<p>
When I turned into the shepherd's cottage, if it was in
winter and he was sitting by the fire, I would sit and smoke
with him, and if we were in a talking mood I would tell him
where I had been and what I had heard and seen, on the heath,
in the woods, in the village, or anywhere, on the chance of
its reminding him of something worth hearing in his past
life.
</p>
<p>
One Sunday morning, in the late summer, during one of my
visits to him, I was out walking in the woods and found a man
of the village, a farm labourer, with his small boy hunting
for hedgehogs. He had caught and killed two, which the boy
was carrying. He told me he was very fond of the flesh of
hedgehogs—"pigs," he called them for short; he said he
would not exchange one for a rabbit. He always spent his
holidays pig-hunting; he had no dog and didn't want one; he
found them himself, and his method was to look for the kind
of place in which they were accustomed to live—a thick
mass of bramble growing at the side of an old ditch as a
rule. He would force his way into it and, moving round and
round, trample down the roots and loose earth and dead leaves
with his heavy iron-shod boots until he broke into the nest
or cell of the spiny little beast hidden away under the bush.
</p>
<p>
He was a short, broad-faced man, with a brown skin, black
hair, and intensely black eyes. Talking with the shepherd
that evening I told him of the encounter, and remarked that
the man was probably a gipsy in blood, although a labourer,
living in the village and married to a woman with blue eyes
who belonged to the place.
</p>
<p>
This incident reminded him of a family, named Targett, in his
native village, consisting of four brothers and a sister. He
knew them first when he was a boy himself, but could not
remember their parents. "It seemed as if they didn't have
any," he said. The four brothers were very much alike: short,
with broad faces, black eyes and hair, and brown skins. They
were good workers, but somehow they were never treated by the
farmers like the other men. They were paid less
wages—as much as two to four shillings a week less per
man—and made to do things that others would not do, and
generally imposed upon. It was known to every employer of
labour in the place that they could be imposed upon; yet they
were not fools, and occasionally if their master went too far
in bullying and abusing them and compelling them to work
overtime every day, they would have sudden violent outbursts
of rage and go off without any pay at all. What became of
their sister he never knew: but none of the four brothers
ever married; they lived together always, and two died in the
village, the other two going to finish their lives in the
workhouse.
</p>
<p>
One of the curious things about these brothers was that they
had a passion for eating hedgehogs. They had it from boyhood,
and as boys used to go a distance from home and spend the day
hunting in hedges and thickets. When they captured a hedgehog
they would make a small fire in some sheltered spot and roast
it, and while it was roasting one of them would go to the
nearest cottage to beg for a pinch of salt, which was
generally given.
</p>
<p>
These, too, I said, must have been gipsies, at all events on
one side. Where there is a cross the gipsy strain is
generally strongest, although the children, if brought up in
the community, often remain in it all their lives; but they
are never quite of it. Their love of wildness and of eating
wild flesh remains in them, and it is also probable that
there is an instability of character, a restlessness, which
the small farmers who usually employ such men know and trade
on; the gipsy who takes to farm work must not look for the
same treatment as the big-framed, white-skinned man who is as
strong, enduring, and unchangeable as a draught horse or ox,
and constant as the sun itself.
</p>
<p>
The gipsy element is found in many if not most villages in
the south of England. I know one large scattered village
where it appears predominant—as dirty and
disorderly-looking a place as can be imagined, the ground
round every cottage resembling a gipsy camp, but worse owing
to its greater litter of old rags and rubbish strewn about.
But the people, like all gipsies, are not so poor as they
look, and most of the cottagers keep a trap and pony with
which they scour the country for many miles around in quest
of bones, rags, and bottles, and anything else they can buy
for a few pence, also anything they can "pick up" for
nothing.
</p>
<p>
This is almost the only kind of settled life which a man with
a good deal of gipsy blood in him can tolerate; it affords
some scope for his chaffering and predatory instincts and
satisfies the roving passion, which is not so strong in those
of mixed blood. But it is too respectable or humdrum a life
for the true, undegenerate gipsy. One wet evening in
September last I was prowling in a copse near Shrewton,
watching the birds, when I encountered a young gipsy and
recognized him as one of a gang of about a dozen I had met
several days before near Salisbury. They were on their way,
they had told me, to a village near Shaftesbury, where they
hoped to remain a week or so.
</p>
<p>
"What are you doing here?" I asked my gipsy.
</p>
<p>
He said he had been to Idmiston; he had been on his legs out
in the rain and wet to the skin since morning. He didn't mind
that much as the wet didn't hurt him and he was not tired;
but he had eight miles to walk yet over the downs to a
village on the Wylye where his people were staying.
</p>
<p>
I remarked that I had thought they were staying over
Shaftesbury way.
</p>
<p>
He then looked sharply at me. "Ah, yes," he said, "I remember
we met you and had some talk a fortnight ago. Yes, we went
there, but they wouldn't have us. They soon ordered us off.
They advised us to settle down if we wanted to stay anywhere.
Settle down! I'd rather be dead!"
</p>
<p>
There spoke the true gipsy; and they are mostly of that mind.
But what a mind it is for human beings in this climate! It is
in a year like this of 1909, when a long cold winter and a
miserable spring, with frosty nights lasting well into June,
was followed by a cold wet summer and a wet autumn, that we
can see properly what a mind and body is his—how
infinitely more perfect the correspondence between organism
and environment in his case than in ours, who have made our
own conditions, who have not only houses to live in, but a
vast army of sanitary inspectors, physicians and
bacteriologists to safeguard us from that wicked stepmother
who is anxious to get rid of us before our time! In all this
miserable year, during which I have met and conversed with
and visited many scores of gipsies, I have not found one who
was not in a cheerful frame of mind, even when he was under a
cloud with the police on his track; nor one with a cold, or
complaining of an ache in his bones, or of indigestion.
</p>
<p>
The subject of gipsies catching cold connects itself just now
in my mind with that of the gipsy's sense of humour. He has
that sense, and it makes him happy when he is reposing in the
bosom of his family and can give it free vent; but the
instant you appear on the scene its gracious outward signs
vanish like lightning and he is once more the sly, subtle
animal, watching you furtively, but with intensity. When you
have left him and he relaxes the humour will come back to
him; for it is a humour similar to that of some of the lower
animals, especially birds of the crow family, and of
primitive people, only more highly developed, and is
concerned mainly with the delight of trickery—with
getting the better of some one and the huge enjoyment
resulting from the process.
</p>
<p>
One morning, between nine and ten o'clock, during the
excessively cold spell near the end of November 1909, I paid
a visit to some gipsies I knew at their camp. The men had
already gone off for the day, but some of the women were
there—a young married woman, two big girls, and six or
seven children. It was a hard frost and their sleeping
accommodation was just as in the summer-time—bundles of
straw and old rugs placed in or against little half-open
canvas and rag shelters; but they all appeared remarkably
well, and some of the children were standing on the hard
frozen ground with bare feet. They assured me that they were
all well, that they hadn't caught colds and didn't mind the
cold. I remarked that I had thought the severe frost might
have proved too much for some of them in that high,
unsheltered spot in the downs, and that if I had found one of
the children down with a cold I should have given it a
sixpence to comfort it. "Oh," cried the young married woman,
"there's my poor six months' old baby half dead of a cold;
he's very bad, poor dear, and I'm in great trouble about
him."
</p>
<p>
"He is bad, the darling!" cried one of the big girls. "I'll
soon show you how bad he is!" and with that she dived into a
pile of straw and dragged out a huge fat sleeping baby.
Holding it up in her arms she begged me to look at it to see
how bad it was; the fat baby slowly opened its drowsy eyes
and blinked at the sun, but uttered no sound, for it was not
a crying baby, but was like a great fat retriever pup pulled
out of its warm bed.
</p>
<p>
How healthy they are is hardly known even to those who make a
special study of these aliens, who, albeit aliens, are yet
more native than any Englishman in the land. It is not merely
their indifference to wet and cold; more wonderful still is
their dog-like capacity of assimilating food which to us
would be deadly. This is indeed not a nice or pretty subject,
and I will give but one instance to illustrate my point; the
reader with a squeamish stomach may skip the ensuing
paragraph.
</p>
<p>
An old shepherd of Chitterne relates that a family, or gang,
of gipsies used to turn up from time to time at the village;
he generally saw them at lambing-time, when one of the heads
of the party with whom he was friendly would come round to
see what he had to give them. On one occasion his gipsy
friend appeared, and after some conversation on general
subjects, asked him if he had anything in his way. "No,
nothing this time," said the shepherd. "Lambing was over two
or three months ago and there's nothing left—no dead
lamb. I hung up a few cauls on a beam in the old shed,
thinking they would do for the dogs, but forgot them and they
went bad and then dried up."
</p>
<p>
"They'll do very well for us," said his friend.
</p>
<p>
"No, don't you take them!" cried the shepherd in alarm; "I
tell you they went bad months ago, and 'twould kill anyone to
eat such stuff. They've dried up now, and are dry and black
as old skin."
</p>
<p>
"That doesn't matter—we know how to make them all
right," said the gipsy. "Soaked with a little salt, then
boiled, they'll do very well." And off he carried them.
</p>
<p>
In reading the reports of the Assizes held at Salisbury from
the late eighteenth century down to about 1840, it surprised
me to find how rarely a gipsy appeared in that long, sad,
monotonous procession of "criminals" who passed before the
man sitting with his black cap on his head, and were sent to
the gallows or to the penal settlements for stealing sheep
and fowls and ducks or anything else. Yet the gipsies were
abundant then as now, living the same wild, lawless life,
quartering the country, and hanging round the villages to spy
out everything stealable. The man caught was almost
invariably the poor, slow-minded, heavy-footed agricultural
labourer; the light, quick-moving, cunning gipsy escaped. In
the "Salisbury Journal" for 1820 I find a communication on
this subject, in which the writer says that a common trick of
the gipsies was to dig a deep pit at their camp in which to
bury a stolen sheep, and on this spot they would make their
camp fire. If the sheep was not missed, or if no report of
its loss was made to the police, the thieves would soon be
able to dig it up and enjoy it; but if inquiries were made
they would have to wait until the affair had blown over.
</p>
<p>
It amused me to find, from an incident related to me by a
workman in a village where I was staying lately, that this
simple, ancient device is still practised by the gipsies. My
informant said that on going out at about four o'clock one
morning during the late summer he was surprised at seeing two
gipsies with a pony and cart at the spot where a party of
them had been encamped a fortnight before. He watched them,
himself unseen, and saw that they were digging a pit on the
spot where they had had their fire. They took out several
objects from the ground, but he was too far away to make out
what they were. They put them in the cart and covered them
over, then filled up the pit, trampled the earth well down,
and put the ashes and burnt sticks back in the same place,
after which they got into the cart and drove off.
</p>
<p>
Of course a man, even a nomad, must have some place to
conceal his treasures or belongings in, and the gipsy has no
cellar nor attic nor secret cupboard, and as for his van it
is about the last place in which he would bestow anything of
value or incriminating, for though he is always on the move,
he is, moving or sitting still, always under a cloud. The
ground is therefore the safest place to hide things in,
especially in a country like the Wiltshire Downs, though he
may use rocks and hollow trees in other districts. His habit
is that of the jay and magpie, and of the dog with a bone to
put by till it is wanted. Possibly the rural police have not
yet discovered this habit of the gipsy. Indeed, the contrast
in mind and locomotive powers between the gipsy and the
village policeman has often amused me; the former most like
the thievish jay, ever on mischief bent; the other, who has
his eye on him, is more like the portly Cochin-China fowl of
the farmyard, or the Muscovy duck, or stately gobbler.
</p>
<p>
To go back. When the buried sheep had to be kept too long
buried and was found "gone bad" when disinterred, I fancy it
made little difference to the diners. One remembers Thoreau's
pleasure at the spectacle of a crowd of vultures feasting on
the carrion of a dead horse; the fine healthy appetite and
boundless vigour of nature filled him with delight. But it is
not only some of the lower animals—dogs and vultures,
for instance—which possess this power and immunity from
the effects of poisons developed in putrid meat; the
Greenlanders and African savages, and many other peoples in
various parts of the world, have it as well.
</p>
<p>
Sometimes when sitting with gipsies at their wild hearth, I
have felt curious as to the contents of that black pot
simmering over the fire. No doubt it often contains strange
meats, but it would not have been etiquette to speak of such
a matter. It is like the pot on the fire of the Venezuela
savage into which he throws whatever he kills with his little
poisoned arrows or fishes out of the river. Probably my only
quarrel with them would be about the little fledgelings: it
angers me to see them beating the bushes in spring in search
of small nesties and the callow young that are in them. After
all, the gipsies could retort that my friends the jays and
magpies are at the same business in April and May.
</p>
<p>
It is just these habits of the gipsy which I have described,
shocking to the moralist and sanitarian and disgusting to the
person of delicate stomach, it may be, which please me,
rather than the romance and poetry which the scholar-gipsy
enthusiasts are fond of reading into him. He is to me a wild,
untameable animal of curious habits, and interests me as a
naturalist accordingly. It may be objected that being a
naturalist occupied with the appearance of things, I must
inevitably miss the one thing which others find.
</p>
<p>
In a talk I had with a gipsy a short time ago, he said to me:
"You know what the books say, and we don't. But we know other
things that are not in the books, and that's what we have.
It's ours, our own, and you can't know it."
</p>
<p>
It was well put; but I was not perhaps so entirely ignorant
as he imagined of the nature of that special knowledge, or
shall we say faculty, which he claimed. I take it to be
cunning—the cunning of a wild animal with a man's
brain—and a small, an infinitesimal, dose of something
else which eludes us. But that something else is not of a
spiritual nature: the gipsy has no such thing in him; the
soul growths are rooted in the social instinct, and are
developed in those in whom that instinct is strong. I think
that if we analyse that dose of something else, we will find
that it is still the animal's cunning, a special, a
sublimated cunning, the fine flower of his whole nature, and
that it has nothing mysterious in it. He is a parasite, but
free and as well able to exist free as the fox or jackal; but
the parasitism pays him well, and he has followed it so long
in his intercourse with social man that it has come to be
like an instinct, or secret knowledge, and is nothing more
than a marvellously keen penetration which reveals to him the
character and degree of credulity and other mental weaknesses
of his subject.
</p>
<p>
It is not so much the wind on the heath, brother, as the
fascination of lawlessness, which makes his life an
everlasting joy to him; to pit himself against gamekeeper,
farmer, policeman, and everybody else, and defeat them all,
to flourish like the parasitic fly on the honey in the hive
and escape the wrath of the bees.
</p>
<p>
I must now return from this long digression to my
conversation with the shepherd about the dark people of the
village.
</p>
<p>
There were, I continued, other black-eyed and black-haired
people in the villages who had no gipsy blood in their veins.
So far as I could make out there were dark people of three
originally distinct and widely different races in the
Wiltshire Downs. There was a good deal of mixed blood, no
doubt, and many dark persons could not be identified as
belonging to any particular race. Nevertheless three distinct
types could be traced among the dark people, and I took them
to be, first, the gipsy, rather short of stature,
brown-skinned, with broad face and high cheek-bones, like the
men we had just been speaking of. Secondly, the men and women
of white skins and good features, who had rather broad faces
and round heads, and were physically and mentally just as
good as the best blue-eyed people; these were probably the
descendants of the dark, broad-faced Wilsetas, who came over
at the time when the country was being overrun with the
English and other nations or tribes, and who colonized in
Wiltshire and gave it their name. The third type differed
widely from both the others. They were smallest in size and
had narrow heads and long or oval faces, and were very dark,
with brown skins; they also differed mentally from the
others, being of a more lively disposition and hotter temper.
The characters which distinguish the ancient British or
Iberian race appeared to predominate in persons of this type.
</p>
<p>
The shepherd said he didn't know much about "all that," but
he remembered that they once had a man in the village who was
like the last kind I had described. He was a labourer named
Tark, who had several sons, and when they were grown up there
was a last one born: he had to be the last because his mother
died when she gave him birth; and that last one was like his
father, small, very dark-skinned, with eyes like sloes, and
exceedingly lively and active.
</p>
<p>
Tark, himself, he said, was the liveliest, most amusing man
he had ever known, and the quickest to do things, whatever it
was he was asked to do, but he was not industrious and not
thrifty. The Tarks were always very poor. He had a good ear
for music and was a singer of the old songs—he seemed
to know them all. One of his performances was with a pair of
cymbals which he had made for himself out of some old metal
plates, and with these he used to play while dancing about,
clashing them in time, striking them on his head, his breast,
and legs. In these dances with the cymbals he would whirl and
leap about in an astonishing way, standing sometimes on his
hands, then on his feet, so that half the people in the
village used to gather at his cottage to watch his antics on
a summer evening.
</p>
<p>
One afternoon he was coming down the village street and saw
the blacksmith standing near his cottage looking up at a tall
fir-tree which grew there on his ground. "What be looking
at?" cried Tark. The blacksmith pointed to a branch, the
lowest branch of all, but about forty feet from the ground,
and said a chaffinch had his nest in it, about three feet
from the trunk, which his little son had set his heart on
having. He had promised to get it down for him, but there was
no long ladder and he didn't know how to get it.
</p>
<p>
Tark laughed and said that for half a gallon of beer he would
go up legs first and take the nest and bring it down in one
hand, which he would not use in climbing, and would come down
as he went up, head first.
</p>
<p>
"Do it, then," said the blacksmith, "and I'll stand the half
gallon."
</p>
<p>
Tark ran to the tree, and turning over and standing on his
hands, clasped the bole with his legs and then with his arms
and went up to the branch, when taking the nest and holding
it in one hand, he came down head first to the ground in
safety.
</p>
<p>
There were other anecdotes of his liveliness and agility.
Then followed the story of the youngest son, known as Liddy.
"I don't rightly know," said Caleb, "what the name was he was
given when they christened 'n; but he were always called
Liddy, and nobody knowed any other name for him."
</p>
<p>
Liddy's grown-up brothers all left home when he was a small
boy: one enlisted and was sent to India and never returned;
the other two went to America, so it was said. He was twelve
years old when his father died, and he had to shift for
himself; but he was no worse off on that account, as they had
always been very poor owing to poor Tark's love of beer.
Before long he got employed by a small working farmer who
kept a few cows and a pair of horses and used to buy wethers
to fatten them, and these the boy kept on the down.
</p>
<p>
Liddy was always a "leetel chap," and looked no more than
nine when twelve, so that he could do no heavy work; but he
was a very willing and active little fellow, with a sweet
temper, and so lively and full of fun as to be a favourite
with everybody in the village. The men would laugh at his
pranks, especially when he came from the fields on the old
plough horse and urged him to a gallop, sitting with his face
to the tail; and they would say that he was like his father,
and would never be much good except to make people laugh. But
the women had a tender feeling for him, because, although
motherless and very poor, he yet contrived to be always clean
and neat. He took the greatest care of his poor clothes,
washing and mending them himself. He also took an intense
interest in his wethers, and almost every day he would go to
Caleb, tending his flock on the down, to sit by him and ask a
hundred questions about sheep and their management. He looked
on Caleb, as head-shepherd on a good-sized farm, as the most
important and most fortunate person he knew, and was very
proud to have him as guide, philosopher, and friend.
</p>
<p>
Now it came to pass that once in a small lot of thirty or
forty wethers which the farmer had bought at a sheep-fair and
brought home it was discovered that one was a ewe—a ewe
that would perhaps at some future day have a lamb! Liddy was
greatly excited at the discovery; he went to Caleb and told
him about it, almost crying at the thought that his master
would get rid of it. For what use would it be to him? but
what a loss it would be! And at last, plucking up courage, he
went to the farmer and begged and prayed to be allowed to
keep the ewe, and the farmer laughed at him; but he was a
little touched at the boy's feeling, and at last consented.
Then Liddy was the happiest boy in the village, and whenever
he got the chance he would go out to Caleb on the down to
talk about and give him news of the one beloved ewe. And one
day, after about nineteen or twenty weeks, Caleb, out with
his flock, heard shouts at a distance, and, turning to look,
saw Liddy coming at great speed towards him, shouting out
some great news as he ran; but what it was Caleb could not
make out, even when the little fellow had come to him, for
his excitement made him incoherent. The ewe had lambed, and
there were twins—two strong healthy lambs, most
beautiful to see! Nothing so wonderful had ever happened in
his life before! And now he sought out his friend oftener
than ever, to talk of his beloved lambs, and to receive the
most minute directions about their care. Caleb, who is not a
laughing man, could not help laughing a little when he
recalled poor Liddy's enthusiasm. But that beautiful shining
chapter in the poor boy's life could not last, and when the
lambs were grown they were sold, and so were all the wethers,
then Liddy, not being wanted, had to find something else to
do.
</p>
<p>
I was too much interested in this story to let the subject
drop. What had been Liddy's after-life? Very uneventful:
there was, in fact, nothing in it, nor in him, except an
intense love for all things, especially animals; and nothing
happened to him until the end, for he has been dead now these
nine or ten years. In his next place he was engaged, first,
as carter's boy, and then under-carter, and all his love was
lavished on the horses. They were more to him than sheep, and
he could love them without pain, since they were not being
prepared for the butcher with his abhorred knife. Liddy's
love and knowledge of horses became known outside of his own
little circle, and he was offered and joyfully accepted a
place in the stables of a wealthy young gentleman farmer, who
kept a large establishment and was a hunting man. From
stable-boy he was eventually promoted to groom. Occasionally
he would reappear in his native place. His home was but a few
miles away, and when out exercising a horse he appeared to
find it a pleasure to trot down the old street, where as a
farmer's boy he used to make the village laugh at his antics.
But he was very much changed from the poor boy, who was often
hatless and barefooted, to the groom in his neat,
well-fitting black suit, mounted on a showy horse.
</p>
<p>
In this place he continued about thirty years, and was
married and had several children and was very happy, and then
came a great disaster. His employer having met with heavy
losses sold all his horses and got rid of his servants, and
Liddy had to go. This great change, and above all his grief
at the loss of his beloved horses, was more than he could
endure. He became melancholy and spent his days in silent
brooding, and by and by, to everybody's surprise, Liddy fell
ill, for he was in the prime of life and had always been
singularly healthy. Then to astonish people still more, he
died. What ailed him—what killed him? every one asked
of the doctor; and his answer was that he had no
disease—that nothing ailed him except a broken heart;
and that was what killed poor Liddy.
</p>
<p>
In conclusion I will relate a little incident which occurred
several months later, when I was again on a visit to my old
friend the shepherd. We were sitting together on a Sunday
evening, when his old wife looked out and said, "Lor, here be
Mrs. Taylor with her children coming in to see us." And Mrs.
Taylor soon appeared, wheeling her baby in a perambulator,
with two little girls following. She was a comely, round,
rosy little woman, with black hair, black eyes, and a
singularly sweet expression, and her three pretty little
children were like her. She stayed half an hour in pleasant
chat, then went her way down the road to her home. Who, I
asked, was Mrs. Taylor?
</p>
<p>
Bawcombe said that in a way she was a native of their old
village of Winterbourne Bishop: at least her father was. She
had married a man who had taken a farm near them, and after
having known her as a young girl they had been glad to have
her again as a neighbour. "She's a daughter of that Liddy I
told 'ee about some time ago," he said.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch20"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER XX
</h2>
<h3>
SOME SHEEP-DOGS
</h3>
<blockquote>
Breaking a sheep-dog—The shepherd buys a pup—His
training—He refuses to work—He chases a swallow
and is put to death—The shepherd's remorse—Bob,
the sheep-dog—How he was bitten by an
adder—Period of the dog's receptivity—Tramp, the
sheep-dog—Roaming lost about the country—A rage
of hunger—Sheep-killing dogs—Dogs running
wild—Anecdotes—A Russian sheep-dog—Caleb
parts with Tramp
</blockquote>
<p>
To Caleb the proper training of a dog was a matter of the
very first importance. A man, he considered, must have not
only a fair amount of intelligence, but also experience, and
an even temper, and a little sympathy as well, to sum up the
animal in hand—its special aptitudes, its limitations,
its disposition, and that something in addition, which he
called a "kink," and would probably have described as its
idiosyncrasy if he had known the word. There was as much
individual difference among dogs as there is in boys; but if
the breed was right, and you went the right way about it, you
could hardly fail to get a good servant. If a dog was not
properly broken, if its trainer had not made the most of it,
he was not a "good shepherd": he lacked the
intelligence—"understanding" was his word—or else
the knowledge or patience or persistence to do his part. It
was, however, possible for the best shepherd to make
mistakes, and one of the greatest to be made, which was not
uncommon, was to embark on the long and laborious business of
training an animal of mixed blood—a sheep-dog with a
taint of terrier, retriever, or some other unsuitable breed
in him. In discussing this subject with other shepherds I
generally found that those who were in perfect agreement with
Caleb on this point were men who were somewhat like him in
character, and who regarded their work with the sheep as so
important that it must be done thoroughly in every detail and
in the best way. One of the best shepherds I know, who is
sixty years old and has been on the same downland sheep-farm
all his life, assures me that he has never had and never
would have a dog which was trained by another. But the
shepherd of the ordinary kind says that he doesn't care much
about the animal's parentage, or that he doesn't trouble to
inquire into its pedigree: he breaks the animal, and finds
that he does pretty well, even when he has some strange blood
in him; finally, that all dogs have faults and you must put
up with them. Caleb would say of such a man that he was not a
"good shepherd." One of his saddest memories was of a dog
which he bought and broke without having made the necessary
inquiries about its parentage.
</p>
<p>
It happened that a shepherd of the village, who had taken a
place at a distant farm, was anxious to dispose of a litter
of pups before leaving, and he asked Caleb to have one. Caleb
refused. "My dog's old, I know," he said, "but I don't want a
pup now and I won't have 'n."
</p>
<p>
A day or two later the man came back and said he had kept one
of the best of the five for him—he had got rid of all
the others. "You can't do better," he persisted. "No," said
Caleb, "what I said I say again. I won't have 'n, I've no
money to buy a dog."
</p>
<p>
"Never mind about money," said the other. "You've got a bell
I like the sound of; give he to me and take the pup." And so
the exchange was made, a copper bell for a nice black pup
with a white collar; its mother, Bawcombe knew, was a good
sheep-dog, but about the other parent he made no inquiries.
</p>
<p>
On receiving the pup he was told that its name was Tory, and
he did not change it. It was always difficult, he explained,
to find a name for a dog—a name, that is to say, which
anyone would say was a proper name for a dog and not a
foolish name. One could think of a good many proper
names—Jack and Watch, and so on—but in each case
one would remember some dog which had been called by that
name, and it seemed to belong to that particular
well-remembered dog and to no other, and so in the end
because of this difficulty he allowed the name to remain.
</p>
<p>
The dog had not cost him much to buy, but as it was only a
few weeks old he had to keep it at his own cost for fully six
months before beginning the business of breaking it, which
would take from three to six months longer. A dog cannot be
put to work before he is quite half a year old unless he is
exceptionally vigorous. Sheep are timid creatures, but not
unintelligent, and they can distinguish between the seasoned
old sheep-dog, whose furious onset and bite they fear, and
the raw young recruit as easily as the rook can distinguish
between the man with a gun and the man of straw with a
broomstick under his arm. They will turn upon and attack the
young dog, and chase him away with his tail between his legs.
He will also work too furiously for his strength and then
collapse, with the result that he will make a cowardly
sheep-dog, or, as the shepherds say, "brokenhearted."
</p>
<p>
Another thing. He must be made to work at first with an old
sheep-dog, for though he has the impulse to fly about and do
something, he does not know what to do and does not
understand his master's gestures and commands. He must have
an object-lesson, he must see the motion and hear the word
and mark how the old dog flies to this or that point and what
he does. The word of command or the gesture thus becomes
associated in his mind with a particular action on his part.
But he must not be given too many object-lessons or he will
lose more than he will gain—a something which might
almost be described as a sense of individual responsibility.
That is to say, responsibility to the human master who
delegates his power to him. Instead of taking his power
directly from the man he takes it from the dog, and this
becomes a fixed habit so quickly that many shepherds say that
if you give more than from three to six lessons of this kind
to a young dog you will spoil him. He will need the
mastership of the other dog, and will thereafter always be at
a loss and work in an uncertain way.
</p>
<p>
A timid or unwilling young dog is often coupled with the old
dog two or three times, but this method has its dangers too,
as it may be too much for the young dog's strength, and give
him that "broken-heart" from which he will never recover; he
will never be a good sheep-dog.
</p>
<p>
To return to Tory. In due time he was trained and proved
quick to learn and willing to work, so that before long he
began to be useful and was much wanted with the sheep, as the
old dog was rapidly growing stiffer on his legs and harder of
hearing.
</p>
<p>
One day the lambs were put into a field which was half clover
and half rape, and it was necessary to keep them on the
clover. This the young dog could not or would not understand;
again and again he allowed the lambs to go to the rape, which
so angered Caleb that he threw his crook at him. Tory turned
and gave him a look, then came very quietly and placed
himself behind his master. From that moment he refused to
obey, and Bawcombe, after exhausting all his arts of
persuasion, gave it up and did as well as he could without
his assistance.
</p>
<p>
That evening after folding-time he by chance met a shepherd
he was well acquainted with and told him of the trouble he
was in over Tory.
</p>
<p>
"You tie him up for a week," said the shepherd, "and treat
him well till he forgets all about it, and he'll be the same
as he was before you offended him. He's just like old
Tom—he's got his father's temper."
</p>
<p>
"What's that you say?" exclaimed Bawcombe. "Be you saying
that Tory's old Tom's son? I'd never have taken him if I'd
known that. Tom's not pure-bred—he's got retriever's
blood."
</p>
<p>
"Well, 'tis known, and I could have told 'ee, if thee'd asked
me," said the shepherd. "But you do just as I tell 'ee, and
it'll be all right with the dog."
</p>
<p>
Tory was accordingly tied up at home and treated well and
spoken kindly to and patted on the head, so that there would
be no unpleasantness between master and servant, and if he
was an intelligent animal he would know that the crook had
been thrown not to hurt but merely to express disapproval of
his naughtiness.
</p>
<p>
Then came a busy day for the shepherd, when the lambs were
trimmed before being taken to the Wilton sheep-fair. There
was Bawcombe, his boy, the decrepit old dog, and Tory to do
the work, but when the time came to start Tory refused to do
anything.
</p>
<p>
When sent to turn the lambs he walked off to a distance of
about twenty yards, sat down and looked at his master. Caleb
hoped he would come round presently when he saw them all at
work, and so they did the best they could without him for a
time; but the old dog was stiffer and harder of hearing than
ever, and as they could not get on properly Caleb went at
intervals to Tory and tried to coax him to give them his
help; and every time he was spoken to he would get up and
come to his master, then when ordered to do something he
would walk off to the spot where he had chosen to be and
calmly sit down once more and look at them. Caleb was
becoming more and more incensed, but he would not show it to
the dog; he still hoped against hope; and then a curious
thing happened. A swallow came skimming along close to the
earth and passed within a yard of Tory, when up jumped the
dog and gave chase, darting across the field with such speed
that he kept very near the bird until it rose and passed over
the hedge at the farther side. The joyous chase over Tory
came back to his old place, and sitting on his haunches began
watching them again struggling with the lambs. It was more
than the shepherd could stand; he went deliberately up to the
dog, and taking him by the straw collar still on his neck
drew him quietly away to the hedge-side and bound him to a
bush, then getting a stout stick he came back and gave him
one blow on the head. So great was the blow that the dog made
not the slightest sound: he fell; his body quivered a moment
and his legs stretched out—he was quite dead. Bawcombe
then plucked an armful of bracken and threw it over his body
to cover it, and going back to the hurdles sent the boy home,
then spreading his cloak at the hedge-side, laid himself down
on it and covered his head.
</p>
<p>
An hour later the fanner appeared on the scene. "What are you
doing here, shepherd?" he demanded in surprise. "Not trimming
the lambs!"
</p>
<p>
Bawcombe, raising himself on his elbow, replied that he was
not trimming the lambs—that he would trim no lambs that
day.
</p>
<p>
"Oh, but we must get on with the trimming!" cried the farmer.
</p>
<p>
Bawcombe returned that the dog had put him out, and now the
dog was dead—he had killed him in his anger, and he
would trim no more lambs that day. He had said it and would
keep to what he had said.
</p>
<p>
Then the farmer got angry and said that the dog had a very
good nose and would have been useful to him to take rabbits.
</p>
<p>
"Master," said the other, "I got he when he were a pup and
broke 'n to help me with the sheep and not to catch rabbits;
and now I've killed 'n and he'll catch no rabbits."
</p>
<p>
The farmer knew his man, and swallowing his anger walked off
without another word.
</p>
<p>
Later on in the day he was severely blamed by a shepherd
friend who said that he could easily have sold the dog to one
of the drovers, who were always anxious to pick up a dog in
their village, and he would have had the money to repay him
for his trouble; to which Bawcombe returned, "If he wouldn't
work for I that broke 'n he wouldn't work for another. But
I'll never again break a dog that isn't pure-bred."
</p>
<p>
But though he justified himself he had suffered remorse for
what he had done; not only at the time, when he covered the
dead dog up with bracken and refused to work any more that
day, but the feeling had persisted all his life, and he could
not relate the incident without showing it very plainly. He
bitterly blamed himself for having taken the pup and for
spending long months in training him without having first
taken pains to inform himself that there was no bad blood in
him. And although the dog was perhaps unfit to live he had
finally killed him in anger. If it had not been for that
sudden impetuous chase after a swallow he would have borne
with him and considered afterwards what was to be done; but
that dash after the bird was more than he could stand; for it
looked as if Tory had done it purposely, in something of a
mocking spirit, to exhibit his wonderful activity and speed
to his master, sweating there at his task, and make him see
what he had lost in offending him.
</p>
<p>
The shepherd gave another instance of a mistake he once made
which caused him a good deal of pain. It was the case of a
dog named Bob which he owned when a young man. He was an
exceptionally small dog, but his quick intelligence made up
for lack of strength, and he was of a very lively
disposition, so that he was a good companion to a shepherd as
well as a good servant.
</p>
<p>
One summer day at noon Caleb was going to his flock in the
fields, walking by a hedge, when he noticed Bob sniffing
suspiciously at the roots of an old holly-tree growing on the
bank. It was a low but very old tree with a thick trunk,
rotten and hollow inside, the cavity being hidden with the
brushwood growing up from the roots. As he came abreast of
the tree, Bob looked up and emitted a low whine, that sound
which says so much when used by a dog to his master and which
his master does not always rightly understand. At all events
he did not do so in this case. It was August and the shooting
had begun, and Caleb jumped to the conclusion that a wounded
bird had crept into the hollow tree to hide, and so to Bob's
whine, which expressed fear and asked what he was to do, the
shepherd answered, "Get him." Bob dashed in, but quickly
recoiled, whining in a piteous way, and began rubbing his
face on his legs. Bawcombe in alarm jumped down and peered
into the hollow trunk and heard a slight rustling of dead
leaves, but saw nothing. His dog had been bitten by an adder,
and he at once returned to the village, bitterly blaming
himself for the mistake he had made and greatly fearing that
he would lose his dog. Arrived at the village his mother at
once went off to the down to inform Isaac of the trouble and
ask him what they were to do. Caleb had to wait some time, as
none of the villagers who gathered round could suggest a
remedy, and in the meantime Bob continued rubbing his cheek
against his foreleg, twitching and whining with pain; and
before long the face and head began to swell on one side, the
swelling extending to the nape and downwards to the throat.
Presently Isaac himself, full of concern, arrived on the
scene, having left his wife in charge of the flock, and at
the same time a man from a neighbouring village came riding
by and joined the group. The horseman got off and assisted
Caleb in holding the dog while Isaac made a number of
incisions with his knife in the swollen place and let out
some blood, after which they rubbed the wounds and all the
swollen part with an oil used for the purpose. The
composition of this oil was a secret: it was made by a man in
one of the downland villages and sold at eighteenpence a
small bottle; Isaac was a believer in its efficacy, and
always kept a bottle hidden away somewhere in his cottage.
</p>
<p>
Bob recovered in a few days, but the hair fell out from all
the part which had been swollen, and he was a curious-looking
dog with half his face and head naked until he got his fresh
coat, when it grew again. He was as good and active a dog as
ever, and lived to a good old age, but one result of the
poison he never got over: his bark had changed from a sharp
ringing sound to a low and hoarse one. "He always barked,"
said the shepherd, "like a dog with a sore throat."
</p>
<p>
To go back to the subject of training a dog. Once you make a
beginning it must be carried through to a finish. You take
him at the age of six months, and the education must be
fairly complete when he is a year old. He is then lively,
impressionable, exceedingly adaptive; his intelligence at
that period is most like man's; but it would be a mistake to
think that it will continue so—that to what he learns
now in this wonderful half-year, other things may be added by
and by as opportunity arises. At a year he has practically
got to the end of his capacity to learn. He has lost his
human-like receptivity, but what he has been taught will
remain with him for the rest of his life. We can hardly say
that he remembers it; it is more like what is called
"inherited memory" or "lapsed intelligence."
</p>
<p>
All this is very important to a shepherd, and explains the
reason an old head-shepherd had for saying to me that he had
never had, and never would have, a dog he had not trained
himself. No two men follow precisely the same method in
training, and a dog transferred from his trainer to another
man is always a little at a loss; method, voice, gestures,
personality, are all different; his new master must study him
and in a way adapt himself to the dog. The dog is still more
at a loss when transferred from one kind of country to
another where the sheep are worked in a different manner, and
one instance Caleb gave me of this is worth relating. It was,
I thought, one of his best dog stories.
</p>
<p>
His dogs as a rule were bought as pups; occasionally he had
had to get a dog already trained, a painful necessity to a
shepherd, seeing that the pound or two it costs—the
price of an ordinary animal—is a big sum of money to
him. And once in his life he got an old trained sheep-dog for
nothing. He was young then, and acting as under-shepherd in
his native village, when the report came one day that a great
circus and menagerie which had been exhibiting in the west
was on its way to Salisbury, and would be coming past the
village about six o'clock on the following morning. The
turnpike was a little over a mile away, and thither Caleb
went with half a dozen other young men of the village at
about five o'clock to see the show pass, and sat on a gate
beside a wood to wait its coming. In due time the long
procession of horses and mounted men and women, and gorgeous
vans containing lions and tigers and other strange beasts,
came by, affording them great admiration and delight. When it
had gone on and the last van had disappeared at the turning
of the road, they got down from the gate and were about to
set out on their way back when a big, shaggy sheepdog came
out of the wood and running to the road began looking up and
down in a bewildered way. They had no doubt that he belonged
to the circus and had turned aside to hunt a rabbit in the
wood; then, thinking the animal would understand them, they
shouted to it and waved their arms in the direction the
procession had gone. But the dog became frightened, and
turning fled back into cover, and they saw no more of it.
</p>
<p>
Two or three days later it was rumoured that a strange dog
had been seen in the neighbourhood of Winterbourne Bishop, in
the fields; and women and children going to or coming from
outlying cottages and farms had encountered it, sometimes
appearing suddenly out of the furze-bushes and staring wildly
at them; or they would meet him in some deep lane between
hedges, and after standing still a moment eyeing them he
would turn and fly in terror from their strange faces.
Shepherds began to be alarmed for the safety of their sheep,
and there was a good deal of excitement and talk about the
strange dog. Two or three days later Caleb encountered it. He
was returning from his flock at the side of a large grass
field where four or five women were occupied cutting the
thistles, and the dog, which he immediately recognized as the
one he had seen at the turnpike, was following one of the
women about. She was greatly alarmed, and called to him,
"Come here, Caleb, for goodness' sake, and drive this big dog
away! He do look so desprit, I'm afeared of he."
</p>
<p>
"Don't you be feared," he shouted back. "He won't hurt 'ee;
he's starving—don't you see his bones sticking out?
He's asking to be fed." Then going a little nearer he called
to her to take hold of the dog by the neck and keep him while
he approached. He feared that the dog on seeing him coming
would rush away. After a little while she called the dog, but
when he went to her she shrank away from him and called out,
"No, I daren't touch he—he'll tear my hand off. I never
see'd such a desprit-looking beast!"
</p>
<p>
"'Tis hunger," repeated Caleb, and then very slowly and
cautiously he approached, the dog all the time eyeing him
suspiciously, ready to rush away on the slightest alarm. And
while approaching him he began to speak gently to him, then
coming to a stand stooped and patting his legs called the dog
to him. Presently he came, sinking his body lower as he
advanced and at last crawling, and when he arrived at the
shepherd's feet he turned himself over on his back—that
eloquent action which a dog uses when humbling himself before
and imploring mercy from one mightier than himself, man or
dog.
</p>
<p>
Caleb stooped, and after patting the dog gripped him firmly
by the neck and pulled him up, while with his free hand he
undid his leather belt to turn it into a dog's collar and
leash; then, the end of the strap in his hand, he said
"Come," and started home with the dog at his side. Arrived at
the cottage he got a bucket and mixed as much meal as would
make two good feeds, the dog all the time watching him with
his muscles twitching and the water running from his mouth.
The meal well mixed he emptied it out on the turf, and what
followed, he said, was an amazing thing to see: the dog
hurled himself down on the food and started devouring it as
if the mass of meal had been some living savage creature he
had captured and was frenziedly tearing to pieces. He turned
round and round, floundering on the earth, uttering strange
noises like half-choking growls and screams while gobbling
down the meal; then when he had devoured it all he began
tearing up and swallowing the turf for the sake of the little
wet meal still adhering to it.
</p>
<p>
Such rage of hunger Caleb had never seen, and it was painful
to him to think of what the dog had endured during those days
when it had been roaming foodless about the neighbourhood.
Yet it was among sheep all the time—scores of flocks
left folded by night at a distance from the village; one
would have imagined that the old wolf and wild-dog instinct
would have come to life in such circumstances, but the
instinct was to all appearance dead.
</p>
<p>
My belief is that the pure-bred sheep-dog is indeed the last
dog to revert to a state of nature; and that when
sheep-killing by night is traced to a sheep-dog, the animal
has a bad strain in him, of retriever, or cur, or
"rabbit-dog," as the shepherds call all terriers. When I was
a boy on the pampas sheep-killing dogs were common enough,
and they were always curs, or the common dog of the country,
a smooth-haired animal about the size of a coach-dog, red, or
black, or white. I recall one instance of sheep-killing being
traced to our own dogs—we had about six or eight just
then. A native neighbour, a few miles away, caught them at it
one morning; they escaped him in spite of his good horse,
with lasso and bolas also, but his sharp eyes saw them pretty
well in the dim light, and by and by he identified them, and
my father had to pay him for about thirty slain and badly
injured sheep; after which a gallows was erected and our
guardians ignominiously hanged. Here we shoot dogs; in some
countries the old custom of hanging them, which is perhaps
less painful, is still followed.
</p>
<p>
To go back to our story. From that time the stray dog was
Caleb's obedient and affectionate slave, always watching his
face and every gesture, and starting up at his slightest word
in readiness to do his bidding. When put with the flock he
turned out to be a useful sheep-dog, but unfortunately he had
not been trained on the Wiltshire Downs. It was plain to see
that the work was strange to him, that he had been taught in
a different school, and could never forget the old and
acquire a new method. But as to what conditions he had been
reared in or in what district or country no one could guess.
Every one said that he was a sheep-dog, but unlike any
sheep-dog they had ever seen; he was not Wiltshire, nor
Welsh, nor Sussex, nor Scotch, and they could say no more.
Whenever a shepherd saw him for the first time his attention
was immediately attracted, and he would stop to speak with
Caleb. "What sort of a dog do you call that?" he would say.
"I never see'd one just like 'n before."
</p>
<p>
At length one day when passing by a new building which some
workmen had been brought from a distance to erect in the
village, one of the men hailed Caleb and said, "Where did you
get that dog, mate?"
</p>
<p>
"Why do you ask me that?" said the shepherd.
</p>
<p>
"Because I know where he come from: he's a Rooshian, that's
what he is. I've see'd many just like him in the Crimea when
I was there. But I never see'd one before in England."
</p>
<p>
Caleb was quite ready to believe it, and was a little proud
at having a sheep-dog from that distant country. He said that
it also put something new into his mind. He didn't know
nothing about Russia before that, though he had been hearing
so much of our great war there and of all the people that had
been killed. Now he realized that Russia was a great country,
a land where there were hills and valleys and villages, where
there were flocks and herds, and shepherds and sheepdogs just
as in the Wiltshire Downs. He only wished that
Tramp—that was the name he had given his
dog—could have told him his history.
</p>
<p>
Tramp, in spite of being strange to the downs and the
downland sheep-dog's work, would probably have been kept by
Caleb to the end but for his ineradicable passion for hunting
rabbits. He did not neglect his duty, but he would slip away
too often, and eventually when a man who wanted a good dog
for rabbits one day offered Caleb fifteen shillings for
Tramp, he sold him, and as he was taken away to a distance by
his new master, he never saw him again.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch21"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER XXI
</h2>
<h3>
THE SHEPHERD AS NATURALIST
</h3>
<blockquote>
General remarks—Great Ridge Wood—Encounter with a
roe-deer—A hare on a stump—A gamekeeper's
memory—Talk with a gipsy—A strange story of a
hedgehog—A gipsy on memory—The shepherd's feeling
for animals—Anecdote of a shrew—Anecdote of an
owl—Reflex effect of the gamekeeper's calling—We
remember best what we see emotionally
</blockquote>
<p>
It will appear to some of my readers that the interesting
facts about wild life, or rather about animal life, wild and
domestic, gathered in my talks with the old shepherd, do not
amount to much. If this is all there is to show after a long
life spent out of doors, or all that is best worth
preserving, it is a somewhat scanty harvest, they will say.
To me it appears a somewhat abundant one. We field
naturalists, who set down what we see and hear in a notebook,
lest we forget it, do not always bear in mind that it is
exceedingly rare for those who are not naturalists, whose
senses and minds are occupied with other things, to come upon
a new and interesting fact in animal life, or that these
chance observations are quickly forgotten. This was strongly
borne in upon me lately while staying in the village of
Hindon in the neighbourhood of the Great Ridge Wood, which
clothes the summit of the long high down overlooking the vale
of the Wylye. It is an immense wood, mostly of scrub or dwarf
oak, very dense in some parts, in others thin, with open,
barren patches, and like a wild forest, covering altogether
twelve or fourteen square miles—perhaps more. There are
no houses near, and no people in it except a few gamekeepers:
I spent long days in it without meeting a human being. It was
a joy to me to find such a spot in England, so wild and
solitary, and I was filled with pleasing anticipation of all
the wild life I should see in such a place, especially after
an experience I had on my second day in it. I was standing in
an open glade when a cock-pheasant uttered a cry of alarm,
and immediately afterwards, startled by the cry perhaps, a
roe-deer rushed out of the close thicket of oak and holly in
which it had been hiding, and ran past me at a very short
distance, giving me a good sight of this shyest of the large
wild animals still left to us. He looked very beautiful to
me, in that mouse-coloured coat which makes him invisible in
the deep shade in which he is accustomed to pass the daylight
hours in hiding, as he fled across the green open space in
the brilliant May sunshine. But he was only one, a chance
visitor, a wanderer from wood to wood about the land; and he
had been seen once, a month before my encounter with him, and
ever since then the keepers had been watching and waiting for
him, gun in hand, to send a charge of shot into his side.
</p>
<p>
That was the best and the only great thing I saw in the Great
Ridge Wood, for the curse of the pheasant is on it as on all
the woods and forests in Wiltshire, and all wild life
considered injurious to the semi-domestic bird, from the
sparrowhawk to the harrier and buzzard and goshawk, and from
the little mousing weasel to the badger; and all the wild
life that is only beautiful, or which delights us because of
its wildness, from the squirrel to the roe-deer, must be
included in the slaughter.
</p>
<p>
One very long summer day spent in roaming about in this
endless wood, always on the watch, had for sole result, so
far as anything out of the common goes, the spectacle of a
hare sitting on a stump. The hare started up at a distance of
over a hundred yards before me and rushed straight away at
first, then turned, and ran on my left so as to get round to
the side from which I had come. I stood still and watched him
as he moved swiftly over the ground, seeing him not as a hare
but as a dim brown object successively appearing, vanishing,
and reappearing, behind and between the brown tree-trunks,
until he had traced half a circle and was then suddenly lost
to sight. Thinking that he had come to a stand I put my
binocular on the spot where he had vanished, and saw him
sitting on an old oak stump about thirty inches long. It was
a round mossy stump, about eighteen inches in diameter,
standing in a bed of brown dead leaves, with the rough brown
trunks of other dwarf oak-trees on either side of it. The
animal was sitting motionless, in profile, its ears erect,
seeing me with one eye, and was like a carved figure of a
hare set on a pedestal, and had a very striking appearance.
</p>
<p>
As I had never seen such a thing before I thought it was
worth mentioning to a keeper I called to see at his lodge on
my way back in the evening. It had been a blank day, I told
him—a hare sitting on a stump being the only thing I
could remember to tell him. "Well," he said, "you've seen
something I've never seen in all the years I've been in these
woods. And yet, when you come to think of it, it's just what
one might expect a hare would do. The wood is full of old
stumps, and it seems only natural a hare should jump on to
one to get a better view of a man or animal at a distance
among the trees. But I never saw it."
</p>
<p>
What, then, had he seen worth remembering during his long
hours in the wood on that day, or the day before, or on any
day during the last thirty years since he had been policing
that wood, I asked him. He answered that he had seen many
strange things, but he was not now able to remember one to
tell me! He said, further, that the only things he remembered
were those that related to his business of guarding and
rearing the birds; all other things he observed in animals,
however remarkable they might seem to him at the moment, were
things that didn't matter and were quickly forgotten.
</p>
<p>
On the very next day I was out on the down with a gipsy, and
we got talking about wild animals. He was a middle-aged man
and a very perfect specimen of his race—not one of the
blue-eyed and red or light-haired bastard gipsies, but dark
as a Red Indian, with eyes like a hawk, and altogether a
hawk-like being, lean, wiry, alert, a perfectly wild man in a
tame, civilized land. The lean, mouse-coloured lurcher that
followed at his heels was perfect too, in his way—man
and dog appeared made for one another. When this man spoke of
his life, spent in roaming about the country, of his very
perfect health, and of his hatred of houses, the very
atmosphere of any indoor place producing a suffocating and
sickening effect on him, I envied him as I envy birds their
wings and as I can never envy men who live in mansions. His
was the wild, the real life, and it seemed to me that there
was no other worth living.
</p>
<p>
"You know," said he, in the course of our talk about wild
animals, "we are very fond of hedgehogs—we like them
better than rabbits."
</p>
<p>
"Well, so do I," was my remark. I am not quite sure that I
do, but that is what I told him. "But now you talk of
hedgehogs," I said, "it's funny to think that, common as the
animal is, it has some queer habits I can't find anything
about from gamekeepers and others I've talked to on the
subject, or from my own observation. Yet one would imagine
that we know all there is to be known about the little beast;
you'll find his history in a hundred books—perhaps in
five hundred. There's one book about our British animals so
big you'd hardly be able to lift its three volumes from the
ground with all your strength, in which its author has raked
together everything known about the hedgehog, but he doesn't
give me the information I want—just what I went to the
book to find. Now here's what a friend of mine once saw. He's
not a naturalist, nor a sportsman, nor a gamekeeper, and not
a gipsy; he doesn't observe animals or want to find out their
ways; he is a writer, occupied day and night with his
writing, sitting among books, yet he saw something which the
naturalists and gamekeepers haven't seen, so far as I know.
He was going home one moonlight night by a footpath through
the woods when he heard a very strange noise a little
distance ahead, a low whistling sound, very sharp, like the
continuous twittering of a little bird with a voice like a
bat, or a shrew, only softer, more musical. He went on very
cautiously, until he spied two hedgehogs standing on the path
facing each other, with their noses almost or quite touching.
He remained watching and listening to them for some moments,
then tried to go a little nearer and they ran away.
</p>
<p>
"Now I've asked about a dozen gamekeepers if they ever saw
such a thing, and all said they hadn't; they never heard
hedgehogs make that twittering sound, like a bird or a
singing mouse; they had only heard them scream like a rabbit
when in a trap. Now what do you say about it?"
</p>
<p>
"I've never seen anything like that," said the gipsy. "I only
know the hedgehog makes a little whistling sound when he
first comes out at night; I believe it is a sort of call they
have."
</p>
<p>
"But no doubt," I said, "you've seen other queer things in
hedgehogs and in other little animals which I should like to
hear."
</p>
<p>
Yes, he had, first and last, seen a good many queer things
both by day and night, in woods and other places, he replied,
and then continued: "But you see it's like this. We see
something and say, 'Now that's a very curious thing!' and
then we forget all about it. You see, we don't lay no store
by such things; we ain't scholards and don't know nothing
about what's said in books. We see something and say
<i>That's</i> something we never saw before and never heard
tell of, but maybe others have seen it and you can find it in
the books. So that's how 'tis, but if I hadn't forgotten them
I could have told you a lot of queer things."
</p>
<p>
That was all he could say, and few can say more. Caleb was
one of the few who could, and one wonders why it was so,
seeing that he was occupied with his own tasks in the fields
and on the down where wild life is least abundant and varied,
and that his opportunities were so few compared with those of
the gamekeeper. It was, I take it, because he had sympathy
for the creatures he observed, that their actions had stamped
themselves on his memory, because he had seen them
emotionally. We have seen how well he remembered the many
sheep-dogs he had owned, how vividly their various characters
are portrayed in his account of them. I have met with
shepherds who had little to tell about the dogs they had
possessed; they had regarded their dogs as useful servants
and nothing more as long as they lived, and when dead they
were forgotten. But Caleb had a feeling for his dogs which
made it impossible for him to forget them or to recall them
without that tenderness which accompanies the thought of
vanished human friends. In a lesser degree he had something
of this feeling for all animals, down even to the most minute
and unconsidered. I recall here one of his anecdotes of a
very small creature—a shrew, or over-runner, as he
called it.
</p>
<p>
One day when out with his flock a sudden storm of rain caused
him to seek for shelter in an old untrimmed hedge close by.
He crept into the ditch, full of old dead leaves beneath the
tangle of thorns and brambles, and setting his back against
the bank he thrust his legs out, and as he did so was
startled by an outburst of shrill little screams at his feet.
Looking down he spied a shrew standing on the dead leaves
close to his boot, screaming with all its might, its long
thin snout pointed upwards and its mouth wide open; and just
above it, two or three inches perhaps, hovered a small brown
butterfly. There for a few moments it continued hovering
while the shrew continued screaming; then the butterfly
flitted away and the shrew disappeared among the dead leaves.
</p>
<p>
Caleb laughed (a rare thing with him) when he narrated this
little incident, then remarked: "The over-runner was a-crying
'cause he couldn't catch that leetel butterfly."
</p>
<p>
The shepherd's inference was wrong; he did not know—few
do—that the shrew has the singular habit, when
surprised on the surface and in danger, of remaining
motionless and uttering shrill cries. His foot, set down
close to it, had set it screaming; the small butterfly, no
doubt disturbed at the same moment, was there by chance. I
recall here another little story he related of a bird—a
long-eared owl.
</p>
<p>
One summer there was a great drought, and the rooks, unable
to get their usual food from the hard, sun-baked
pasture-lands, attacked the roots and would have pretty well
destroyed them if the farmer had not protected his swedes by
driving in stakes and running cotton-thread and twine from
stake to stake all over the field. This kept them off, just
as thread keeps the chaffinches from the seed-beds in small
gardens, and as it keeps the sparrows from the crocuses on
lawn and ornamental grounds. One day Caleb caught sight of an
odd-looking, brownish-grey object out in the middle of the
turnip-field, and as he looked it rose up two or three feet
into the air, then dropped back again, and this curious
movement was repeated at intervals of two or three minutes
until he went to see what the thing was. It turned out to be
a long-eared owl, with its foot accidentally caught by a
slack thread, which allowed the bird to rise a couple of feet
into the air; but every such attempt to escape ended in its
being pulled back to the ground again. It was so excessively
lean, so weightless in his hand, when he took it up after
disengaging its foot, that he thought it must have been
captive for the space of two or three days. The wonder was
that it had kept alive during those long midsummer days of
intolerable heat out there in the middle of the burning
field. Yet it was in very fine feather and beautiful to look
at with its long, black ear-tufts and round, orange-yellow
eyes, which would never lose their fiery lustre until glazed
in death. Caleb's first thought on seeing it closely was that
it would have been a prize to anyone who liked to have a
handsome bird stuffed in a glass case. Then raising it over
his head he allowed it to fly, whereupon it flew off a
distance of a dozen or fifteen yards and pitched among the
turnips, after which it ran a little space and rose again
with labour, but soon recovering strength it flew away over
the field and finally disappeared in the deep shade of the
copse beyond.
</p>
<p>
In relating these things the voice, the manner, the
expression in his eyes were more than the mere words, and
displayed the feeling which had caused these little incidents
to endure so long in his memory.
</p>
<p>
The gamekeeper cannot have this feeling: he may come to his
task with the liveliest interest in, even with sympathy for,
the wild creatures amidst which he will spend his life, but
it is all soon lost. His business in the woods is to kill,
and the reflex effect is to extinguish all interest in the
living animal—in its life and mind. It would, indeed,
be a wonderful thing if he could remember any singular action
or appearance of an animal which he had witnessed before
bringing his gun automatically to his shoulder.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch22"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER XXII
</h2>
<h3>
THE MASTER OF THE VILLAGE
</h3>
<blockquote>
Moral effect of the great man—An orphaned
village—The masters of the village.—Elijah
Raven—Strange appearance and character—Elijah's
house—The owls—Two rooms in the
house—Elijah hardens with time—The village club
and its arbitrary secretary—Caleb dips the lambs and
falls ill—His claim on the club rejected—Elijah
in court
</blockquote>
<p>
In my roamings about the downs it is always a relief—a
positive pleasure in fact—to find myself in a village
which has no squire or other magnificent and munificent
person who dominates everybody and everything, and, if he
chooses to do so, plays providence in the community. I may
have no personal objection to him—he is sometimes
almost if not quite human; what I heartily dislike is the
effect of his position (that of a giant among pigmies) on the
lowly minds about him, and the servility, hypocrisy, and
parasitism which spring up and flourish in his wide shadow
whether he likes these moral weeds or not. As a rule he likes
them, since the poor devil has this in common with the rest
of us, that he likes to stand high in the general regard. But
how is he to know it unless he witnesses its outward
beautiful signs every day and every hour on every countenance
he looks upon? Better, to my mind, the severer conditions,
the poverty and unmerited sufferings which cannot be
relieved, with the greater manliness and self-dependence when
the people are left to work out their own destiny. On this
account I was pleased to make the discovery on my first visit
to Caleb's native village that there was no magnate, or other
big man, and no gentleman except the parson, who was not a
rich man. It was, so to speak, one of the orphaned villages
left to fend for itself and fight its own way in a hard
world, and had nobody even to give the customary blankets and
sack of coals to its old women. Nor was there any very big
farmer in the place, certainly no gentleman farmer; they were
mostly small men, some of them hardly to be distinguished in
speech and appearance from their hired labourers.
</p>
<p>
In these small isolated communities it is common to find men
who have succeeded in rising above the others and in
establishing a sort of mastery over them. They are not as a
rule much more intelligent than the others who are never able
to better themselves; the main difference is that they are
harder and more grasping and have more self-control. These
qualities tell eventually, and set a man a little apart, a
little higher than the others, and he gets the taste of
power, which reacts on him like the first taste of blood on
the big cat. Henceforward he has his ideal, his definite
goal, which is to get the upper hand—to be on top. He
may be, and generally is, an exceedingly unpleasant fellow to
have for a neighbour—mean, sordid, greedy, tyrannous,
even cruel, and he may be generally hated and despised as
well, but along with these feelings there will be a kind of
shamefaced respect and admiration for his courage in
following his own line in defiance of what others think and
feel. It is after all with man as with the social animals: he
must have a master—not a policeman, or magistrate, or a
vague, far-away, impersonal something called the authorities
or the government; but a head of the pack or herd, a being
like himself whom he knows and sees and hears and feels every
day. A real man, dressed in old familiar clothes, a
fellow-villager, who, wolf or dog-like, has fought his way to
the mastership.
</p>
<p>
There was a person of this kind at Winterbourne Bishop who
was often mentioned in Caleb's reminiscences, for he had left
a very strong impression on the shepherd's mind—as
strong, perhaps, though in a disagreeable way, as that of
Isaac his father, and of Mr. Ellerby of Doveton. For not only
was he a man of great force of character, but he was of
eccentric habits and of a somewhat grotesque appearance. The
curious name of this person was Elijah Raven. He was a native
of the village and lived till extreme old age in it, the last
of his family, in a small house inherited from his father,
situated about the centre of the village street. It was a
quaint, old, timbered house, little bigger than a cottage,
with a thatched roof, and behind it some outbuildings, a
small orchard, and a field of a dozen or fifteen acres. Here
he lived with one other person, an old man who did the
cooking and housework, but after this man died he lived
alone. Not only was he a bachelor, but he would never allow
any woman to come inside his house. Elijah's one idea was to
get the advantage of others—to make himself master in
the village. Beginning poor, he worked in a small, cautious,
peddling way at farming, taking a field or meadow or strip of
down here and there in the neighbourhood, keeping a few
sheep, a few cows, buying and selling and breeding horses.
The men he employed were those he could get at low
wages—poor labourers who were without a place and
wanted to fill up a vacant time, or men like the Targetts
described in a former chapter who could be imposed upon; also
gipsies who flitted about the country, working in a spasmodic
way when in the mood for the farmers who could tolerate them,
and who were paid about half the wages of an ordinary
labourer. If a poor man had to find money quickly, on account
of illness or some other cause, he could get it from Elijah
at once—not borrowed, since Elijah neither lent nor
gave—but he could sell him anything he
possessed—a horse or cow, or sheepdog, or a piece of
furniture; and if he had nothing to sell, Elijah would give
him something to do and pay him something for it. The great
thing was that Elijah had money which he was always willing
to circulate. At his unlamented death he left several
thousands of pounds, which went to a distant relation, and a
name which does not smell sweet, but is still remembered not
only at Winterbourne Bishop but at many other villages on
Salisbury Plain.
</p>
<p>
Elijah was short of stature, broad-shouldered, with an
abnormally big head and large dark eyes. They say that he
never cut his hair in his life. It was abundant and curly,
and grew to his shoulders, and when he was old and his great
mass of hair and beard became white it was said that he
resembled a gigantic white owl. Mothers frightened their
children into quiet by saying, "Elijah will get you if you
don't behave yourself." He knew and resented this, and though
he never noticed a child, he hated to have the little ones
staring in a half-terrified way at him. To seclude himself
more from the villagers he planted holly and yew bushes
before his house, and eventually the entire building was
hidden from sight by the dense evergreen thicket. The trees
were cut down after his death: they were gone when I first
visited the village and by chance found a lodging in the
house, and congratulated myself that I had got the quaintest,
old rambling rooms I had ever inhabited. I did not know that
I was in Elijah Raven's house, although his name had long
been familiar to me: it only came out one day when I asked my
landlady, who was a native, to tell me the history of the
place. She remembered how as a little girl, full of mischief
and greatly daring, she had sometimes climbed over the low
front wall to hide under the thick yew bushes and watch to
catch a sight of the owlish old man at his door or window.
</p>
<p>
For many years Elijah had two feathered tenants, a pair of
white owls—the birds he so much resembled. They
occupied a small garret at the end of his bedroom, having
access to it through a hole under the thatch. They bred there
in peace, and on summer evenings one of the common sights of
the village was Elijah's owls flying from the house behind
the evergreens and returning to it with mice in their talons.
At such seasons the threat to the unruly children would be
varied to "Old Elijah's owls will get you." Naturally, the
children grew up with the idea of the birds and the owlish
old man associated in their minds.
</p>
<p>
It was odd that the two very rooms which Elijah had occupied
during all those solitary years, the others being given over
to spiders and dust, should have been assigned to me when I
came to lodge in the house. The first, my sitting-room, was
so low that my hair touched the ceiling when I stood up my
full height; it had a brick floor and a wide old fireplace on
one side. Though so low-ceilinged it was very large and good
to be in when I returned from a long ramble on the downs,
sometimes wet and cold, to sit by a wood fire and warm
myself. At night when I climbed to my bedroom by means of the
narrow, crooked, worm-eaten staircase, with two difficult and
dangerous corners to get round, I would lie awake staring at
the small square patch of greyness in the black interior made
by the latticed window; and listening to the wind and rain
outside, would remember that the sordid, owlish old man had
slept there and stared nightly at that same grey patch in the
dark for very many years. If, I thought, that something of a
man which remains here below to haunt the scene of its past
life is more likely to exist and appear to mortal eyes in the
case of a person of strong individuality, then there is a
chance that I may be visited this night by Elijah Raven his
ghost. But his owlish countenance never appeared between me
and that patch of pale dim light; nor did I ever feel a
breath of cold unearthly air on me.
</p>
<p>
Elijah did not improve with time; the years that made him
long-haired, whiter, and more owl-like also made him more
penurious and grasping, and anxious to get the better of
every person about him. There was scarcely a poor person in
the village—not a field labourer nor shepherd nor
farmer's boy, nor any old woman he had employed, who did not
consider that they had suffered at his hands. The very
poorest could not escape; if he got some one to work for
fourpence a day he would find a reason to keep back a portion
of the small sum due to him. At the same time he wanted to be
well thought of, and at length an opportunity came to him to
figure as one who did not live wholly for himself but rather
as a person ready to go out of his way to help his
neighbours.
</p>
<p>
There had long existed a small benefit society or club in the
village to which most of the farm-hands in the parish
belonged, the members numbering about sixty or seventy.
Subscriptions were paid quarterly, but the rules were not
strict, and any member could take a week or a fortnight
longer to pay; when a member fell ill he received half the
amount of his wages a week from the funds in hand, and once a
year they had a dinner. The secretary was a labourer, and in
time he grew old and infirm and could not hold a pen in his
rheumaticky fingers, and a meeting was held to consider what
was to be done in the matter. It was not an easy one to
settle. There were few members capable of keeping the books
who would undertake the duty, as it was unpaid, and no one
among them well known and trusted by all the members. It was
then that Elijah Raven came to the rescue. He attended the
meeting, which he was allowed to do owing to his being a
person of importance—the only one of that description
in the village; and getting up on his legs he made the offer
to act as secretary himself. This came as a great surprise,
and the offer was at once and unanimously accepted, all
unpleasant feelings being forgotten, and for the first time
in his life Elijah heard himself praised as a disinterested
person, one it was good to have in the village.
</p>
<p>
Things went on very well for a time, and at the yearly dinner
of the club, a few months later, Elijah gave an account of
his stewardship, showing that the club had a surplus of two
hundred pounds. Shortly after this trouble began; Elijah, it
was said, was making use of his position as secretary for his
own private interests and to pay off old scores against those
he disliked. When a man came with his quarterly subscription
Elijah would perhaps remember that this person had refused to
work for him or that he had some quarrel with him, and if the
subscription was overdue he would refuse to take it; he would
tell the man that he was no longer a member, and he also
refused to give sick pay to any applicant whose last
subscription was still due, if he happened to be in Elijah's
black book. By and by he came into collision with Caleb, one
of the villagers against whom he cherished a special grudge,
and this small affair resulted in the dissolution of the
club.
</p>
<p>
At this time Caleb was head-shepherd at Bartle's Cross, a
large farm above a mile and a half from the village. One
excessively hot day in August he had to dip the lambs; it was
very hard work to drive them from the farm over a high down
to the stream a mile below the village, where there was a
dipping place, and he was tired and hot, and in a sweat when
he began the work. With his arms bared to the shoulders he
took and plunged his first lamb into the tank. When engaged
in dipping, he said, he always kept his mouth closed tightly
for fear of getting even a drop of the mixture in it, but on
this occasion it unfortunately happened that the man
assisting him spoke to him and he was compelled to reply, but
had no sooner opened his mouth to speak than the lamb made a
violent struggle in his arms and splashed the water over his
face and into his mouth. He got rid of it as quickly as he
could, but soon began to feel bad, and before the work was
over he had to sit down two or three times to rest. However,
he struggled on to the finish, then took the flock home and
went to his cottage. He could do no more. The farmer came to
see what the matter was, and found him in a fever, with face
and throat greatly swollen. "You look bad," he said; "you
must be off to the doctor." But it was five miles to the
village where the doctor lived, and Bawcombe replied that he
couldn't go. "I'm too bad—I couldn't go, master, if you
offered me money for it," he said.
</p>
<p>
Then the farmer mounted his horse and went himself, and the
doctor came. "No doubt," he said, "you've got some of the
poison into your system and took a chill at the same time."
The illness lasted six weeks, and then the shepherd resumed
work, although still feeling very shaky. By and by when the
opportunity came, he went to claim his sick pay—six
shillings a week for the six weeks, his wages being then
twelve shillings. Elijah flatly refused to pay him; his
subscription, he said, had been due for several weeks and he
had consequently forfeited his right to anything. In vain the
shepherd explained that he could not pay when lying ill at
home with no money in the house and receiving no pay from the
farmer. The old man remained obdurate, and with a very heavy
heart the shepherd came out and found three or four of the
villagers waiting in the road outside to hear the result of
the application.
</p>
<p>
They, too, were men who had been turned away from the club by
the arbitrary secretary. Caleb was telling them about his
interview when Elijah came out of the house and, leaning over
the front gate, began to listen. The shepherd then turned
towards him and said in a loud voice: "Mr. Elijah Raven,
don't you think this is a tarrible hard case! I've paid my
subscription every quarter for thirty years and never had
nothing from the fund except two weeks' pay when I were bad
some years ago. Now I've been bad six weeks, and my master
giv' me nothing for that time, and I've got the doctor to pay
and nothing to live on. What am I to do?"
</p>
<p>
Elijah stared at him in silence for some time, then spoke: "I
told you in there I wouldn't pay you one penny of the money
and I'll hold to what I said—in there I said it
indoors, and I say again that indoors I'll never pay
you—no, not one penny piece. But if I happen some day
to meet you out of doors then I'll pay you. Now go."
</p>
<p>
And go he did, very meekly, his wrath going down as he
trudged home; for after all he would have his money by and
by, although the hard old man would punish him for past
offences by making him wait for it.
</p>
<p>
A week or so went by, and then one day while passing through
the village he saw Elijah coming towards him, and said to
himself, Now I'll be paid! When the two men drew near
together he cried out cheerfully, "Good morning, Mr. Raven."
The other without a word and without a pause passed by on his
way, leaving the poor shepherd gazing crestfallen after him.
</p>
<p>
After all he would not get his money! The question was
discussed in the cottages, and by and by one of the villagers
who was not so poor as most of them, and went occasionally to
Salisbury, said he would ask an attorney's advice about the
matter. He would pay for the advice out of his own pocket; he
wanted to know if Elijah could lawfully do such things.
</p>
<p>
To the man's astonishment the attorney said that as the club
was not registered and the members had themselves made Elijah
their head he could do as he liked—no action would lie
against him. But if it was true and it could be proved that
he had spoken those words about paying the shepherd his money
if he met him out of doors, then he could be made to pay. He
also said he would take the case up and bring it into court
if a sum of five pounds was guaranteed to cover expenses in
case the decision went against them.
</p>
<p>
Poor Caleb, with twelve shillings a week to pay his debts and
live on, could guarantee nothing, but by and by when the
lawyer's opinion had been discussed at great length at the
inn and in all the cottages in the village, it was found that
several of Bawcombe's friends were willing to contribute
something towards a guarantee fund, and eventually the sum of
five pounds was raised and handed over to the person who had
seen the lawyer.
</p>
<p>
His first step was to send for Bawcombe, who had to get a day
off and journey in the carrier's cart one market-day to
Salisbury. The result was that action was taken, and in due
time the case came on. Elijah Raven was in court with two or
three of his friends—small working farmers who had some
interested motive in desiring to appear as his supporters.
He, too, had engaged a lawyer to conduct his case. The judge,
said Bawcombe, who had never seen one before, was a tarrible
stern-looking old man in his wig. The plaintiff's lawyer he
did open the case and he did talk and talk a lot, but
Elijah's counsel he did keep on interrupting him, and they
two argued and argued, but the judge he never said no word,
only he looked blacker and more tarrible stern. Then when the
talk did seem all over, Bawcombe, ignorant of the forms, got
up and said, "I beg your lordship's pardon, but may I speak?"
He didn't rightly remember afterwards what he called him, but
'twere your lordship or your worship, he was sure. "Yes,
certainly, you are here to speak," said the judge, and
Bawcombe then gave an account of his interview with Elijah
and of the conversation outside the house.
</p>
<p>
Then up rose Elijah Raven, and in a loud voice exclaimed,
"Lord, Lord, what a sad thing it is to have to sit here and
listen to this man's lies!"
</p>
<p>
"Sit down, sir," thundered the judge; "sit down and hold your
tongue, or I shall have you removed."
</p>
<p>
Then Elijah's lawyer jumped up, and the judge told him he'd
better sit down too because he knowed who the liar was in
this case. "A brutal case!" he said, and that was the end,
and Bawcombe got his six weeks' sick pay and expenses, and
about three pounds besides, being his share of the society's
funds which Elijah had been advised to distribute to the
members.
</p>
<p>
And that was the end of the Winterbourne Bishop club, and
from that time it has continued without one.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch23"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER XXIII
</h2>
<h3>
ISAAC'S CHILDREN
</h3>
<blockquote>
Isaac Bawcombe's family—The youngest son—Caleb
goes to seek David at Wilton sheep-fair—Martha, the
eldest daughter—Her beauty—She marries Shepherd
Ierat—The name of Ierat—Story of Ellen
Ierat—The Ierats go to Somerset—Martha and the
lady of the manor—Martha's travels—Her mistress
dies—Return to Winterbourne Bishop—Shepherd
Ierat's end
</blockquote>
<p>
Caleb was one of five, the middle one, with a brother and
sister older and a brother and sister younger than
himself—a symmetrical family. I have already written
incidentally of the elder brother and the youngest sister,
and in this chapter will complete the history of Isaac's
children by giving an account of the eldest sister and
youngest brother.
</p>
<p>
The brother was David, the hot-tempered young shepherd who
killed his dog Monk, and who afterwards followed his brother
to Warminster. In spite of his temper and "want of sense"
Caleb was deeply attached to him, and when as an old man his
shepherding days were finished he followed his wife to their
new home, he grieved at being so far removed from his
favourite brother. For some time he managed to make the
journey to visit him once a year. Not to his home near
Warminster, but to Wilton, at the time of the great annual
sheep-fair held on 12th September. From his cottage he would
go by the carrier's cart to the nearest town, and thence by
rail with one or two changes by Salisbury to Wilton.
</p>
<p>
After I became acquainted with Caleb he was ill and not
likely to recover, and for over two years could not get
about. During all this time he spoke often to me of his
brother and wished he could see him. I wondered why he did
not write; but he would not, nor would the other. These
people of the older generation do not write to each other;
years are allowed to pass without tidings, and they wonder
and wish and talk of this and that absent member of the
family, trusting it is well with them, but to write a letter
never enters into their minds.
</p>
<p>
At last Caleb began to mend and determined to go again to
Wilton sheep-fair to look for his beloved brother; to
Warminster he could not go; it was too far. September the
12th saw him once more at the old meeting-place, painfully
making his slow way to that part of the ground where Shepherd
David Bawcombe was accustomed to put his sheep. But he was
not there. "I be here too soon," said Caleb, and sat himself
patiently down to wait, but hours passed and David did not
appear, so he got up and made his way about the fair in
search of him, but couldn't find 'n. Returning to the old
spot he got into conversation with two young shepherds and
told them he was waiting for his brother who always put his
sheep in that part. "What be his name?" they asked, and when
he gave it they looked at one another and were silent. Then
one of them said, "Be you Shepherd Caleb Bawcombe?" and when
he had answered them the other said, "You'll not see your
brother at Wilton to-day. We've come from Doveton, and knew
he. You'll not see your brother no more. He be dead these two
years."
</p>
<p>
Caleb thanked them for telling him, and got up and went his
way very quietly, and got back that night to his cottage. He
was very tired, said his wife; he wouldn't eat and he
wouldn't talk. Many days passed and he still sat in his
corner and brooded, until the wife was angry and said she
never knowed a man make so great a trouble over losing a
brother. 'Twas not like losing a wife or a son, she said; but
he answered not a word, and it was many weeks before that
dreadful sadness began to wear off, and he could talk
cheerfully once more of his old life in the village.
</p>
<p>
Of the sister, Martha, there is much more to say; her life
was an eventful one as lives go in this quiet downland
country, and she was, moreover, distinguished above the
others of the family by her beauty and vivacity. I only knew
her when her age was over eighty, in her native village where
her life ended some time ago, but even at that age there was
something of her beauty left and a good deal of her charm.
She had a good figure still and was of a good height; and had
dark, fine eyes, clear, dark, unwrinkled skin, a finely
shaped face, and her grey hair, once black, was very
abundant. Her manner, too, was very engaging. At the age of
twenty-five she married a shepherd named Thomas Ierat—a
surname I had not heard before and which made me wonder where
were the Ierats in Wiltshire that in all my rambles among the
downland villages I had never come across them, not even in
the churchyards. Nobody knew—there were no Ierats
except Martha Ierat, the widow, of Winterbourne Bishop and
her son—nobody had ever heard of any other family of
the name. I began to doubt that there ever had been such a
name until quite recently when, on going over an old downland
village church, the rector took me out to show me "a strange
name" on a tablet let into the wall of the building outside.
The name was Ierat and the date the seventeenth century. He
had never seen the name excepting on that tablet. Who, then,
was Martha's husband? It was a queer story which she would
never have told me, but I had it from her brother and his
wife.
</p>
<p>
A generation before that of Martha, at a farm in the village
of Bower Chalk on the Ebble, there was a girl named Ellen
Ierat employed as a dairymaid. She was not a native of the
village, and if her parentage and place of birth were ever
known they have long passed out of memory. She was a
good-looking, nice-tempered girl, and was much liked by her
master and mistress, so that after she had been about two
years in their service it came as a great shock to find that
she was in the family way. The shock was all the greater when
the fresh discovery was made one day that another unmarried
woman in the house, who was also a valued servant, was in the
same condition. The two unhappy women had kept their secret
from every one except from each other until it could be kept
no longer, and they consulted together and determined to
confess it to their mistress and abide the consequences.
</p>
<p>
Who were the men? was the first question asked There was only
one—Robert Coombe, the shepherd, who lived at the
farm-house, a slow, silent, almost inarticulate man, with a
round head and flaxen hair; a bachelor of whom people were
accustomed to say that he would never marry because no woman
would have such a stolid, dull-witted fellow for a husband.
But he was a good shepherd and had been many years on the
farm, and it was altogether a terrible business. Forthwith
the farmer got out his horse and rode to the downs to have it
out with the unconscionable wretch who had brought that shame
and trouble on them. He found him sitting on the turf eating
his midday bread and bacon, with a can of cold tea at his
side, and getting off his horse he went up to him and damned
him for a scoundrel and abused him until he had no words
left, then told his shepherd that he must choose between the
two women and marry at once, so as to make an honest woman of
one of the two poor fools; either he must do that or quit the
farm forthwith.
</p>
<p>
Coombe heard in silence and without a change in his
countenance, masticating his food the while and washing it
down with an occasional draught from his can, until he had
finished his meal; then taking his crook he got up, and
remarking that he would "think of it" went after his flock.
</p>
<p>
The farmer rode back cursing him for a clod; and in the
evening Coombe, after folding his flock, came in to give his
decision, and said he had thought of it and would take Jane
to wife. She was a good deal older than Ellen and not so
good-looking, but she belonged to the village and her people
were there, and everybody knowed who Jane was, an' she was an
old servant an' would be wanted on the farm. Ellen was a
stranger among them, and being only a dairymaid was of less
account than the other one.
</p>
<p>
So it was settled, and on the following morning Ellen, the
rejected, was told to take up her traps and walk.
</p>
<p>
What was she to do in her condition, no longer to be
concealed, alone and friendless in the world? She thought of
Mrs. Poole, an elderly woman of Winterbourne Bishop, whose
children were grown up and away from home, who when staying
at Bower Chalk some months before had taken a great liking
for Ellen, and when parting with her had kissed her and said:
"My dear, I lived among strangers too when I were a girl and
had no one of my own, and know what 'tis." That was all; but
there was nobody else, and she resolved to go to Mrs. Poole,
and so laden with her few belongings she set out to walk the
long miles over the downs to Winterbourne Bishop where she
had never been. It was far to walk in hot August weather when
she went that sad journey, and she rested at intervals in the
hot shade of a furze-bush, haunted all day by the miserable
fear that the woman she sought, of whom she knew so little,
would probably harden her heart and close her door against
her. But the good woman took compassion on her and gave her
shelter in her poor cottage, and kept her till her child was
born, in spite of all the women's bitter tongues. And in the
village where she had found refuge she remained to the end of
her life, without a home of her own, but always in a room or
two with her boy in some poor person's cottage. Her life was
hard but not unpeaceful, and the old people, all dead and
gone now, remembered Ellen as a very quiet, staid woman who
worked hard for a living, sometimes at the wash-tub, but
mostly in the fields, haymaking and harvesting and at other
times weeding, or collecting flints, or with a spud or sickle
extirpating thistles in the pasture-land. She worked alone or
with other poor women, but with the men she had no
friendships; the sharpest women's eyes in the village could
see no fault in her in this respect; if it had not been so,
if she had talked pleasantly with them and smiled when
addressed by them, her life would have been made a burden to
her. She would have been often asked who her brat's father
was. The dreadful experience of that day, when she had been
cast out and was alone in the world, when, burdened with her
unborn child, she had walked over the downs in the hot August
weather, in anguish of apprehension, had sunk into her soul.
Her very nature was changed, and in a man's presence her
blood seemed frozen, and if spoken to she answered in
monosyllables with her eyes on the earth. This was noted,
with the result that all the village women were her good
friends; they never reminded her of her fall, and when she
died still young they grieved for her and befriended the
little orphan boy she had left on their hands.
</p>
<p>
He was then about eleven years old, and was a stout little
fellow with a round head and flaxen hair like his father; but
he was not so stolid and not like him in character; at all
events his old widow in speaking of him to me said that never
in all his life did he do one unkind or unjust thing. He came
from a long line of shepherds, and shepherding was perhaps
almost instinctive in him; from his earliest boyhood the
tremulous bleating of the sheep and half-muffled clink of the
copper bells and the sharp bark of the sheep-dog had a
strange attraction for him. He was always ready when a boy
was wanted to take charge of a flock during a temporary
absence of the shepherd, and eventually, when only about
fifteen, he was engaged as under-shepherd, and for the rest
of his life shepherding was his trade.
</p>
<p>
His marriage to Martha Bawcombe came as a surprise to the
village, for though no one had any fault to find with Tommy
Ierat there was a slur on him, and Martha, who was the finest
girl in the place, might, it was thought, have looked for
some one better. But Martha had always liked Tommy; they were
of the same age and had been playmates in their childhood;
growing up together their childish affection had turned to
love, and after they had waited some years and Tommy had a
cottage and seven shillings a week, Isaac and his wife gave
their consent and they were married. Still they felt hurt at
being discussed in this way by the villagers, so that when
Ierat was offered a place as shepherd at a distance from
home, where his family history was not known, he was glad to
take it and his wife to go with him, about a month after her
child was born.
</p>
<p>
The new place was in Somerset, thirty-five to forty miles
from their native village, and Ierat as shepherd at the
manor-house farm on a large estate would have better wages
than he had ever had before and a nice cottage to live in.
Martha was delighted with her new home—the cottage, the
entire village, the great park and mansion close by, all made
it seem like paradise to her. Better than everything was the
pleasant welcome she received from the villagers, who looked
in to make her acquaintance and seemed very much taken with
her appearance and nice, friendly manner. They were all eager
to tell her about the squire and his lady, who were young,
and of how great an interest they took in their people and
how much they did for them and how they were loved by
everybody on the estate.
</p>
<p>
It happens, oddly enough, that I became acquainted with this
same man, the squire, over fifty years after the events I am
relating, when he was past eighty. This acquaintance came
about by means of a letter he wrote me in reference to the
habits of a bird or some such small matter, a way in which I
have become acquainted with scores—perhaps I should say
hundreds—of persons in many parts of the country. He
was a very fine man, the head of an old and distinguished
county family; an ideal squire, and one of the few large
landowners I have had the happiness to meet who was not
devoted to that utterly selfish and degraded form of sport
which consists in the annual rearing and subsequent slaughter
of a host of pheasants.
</p>
<p>
Now when Martha was entertaining half a dozen of her new
neighbours who had come in to see her, and exhibited her baby
to them and then proceeded to suckle it, they looked at one
another and laughed, and one said, "Just you wait till the
lady at the mansion sees 'ee—she'll soon want 'ee to
nurse her little one."
</p>
<p>
What did they mean? They told her that the great lady was a
mother too, and had a little sickly baby and wanted a nurse
for it, but couldn't find a woman to please her.
</p>
<p>
Martha fired up at that. Did they imagine, she asked, that
any great lady in the world with all her gold could tempt her
to leave her own darling to nurse another woman's? She would
not do such a thing—she would rather leave the place
than submit to it. But she didn't believe it—they had
only said that to tease and frighten her!
</p>
<p>
They laughed again, looking admiringly at her as she stood
before them with sparkling eyes, flushed cheeks, and fine
full bust, and only answered, "Just you wait, my dear, till
she sees 'ee."
</p>
<p>
And very soon the lady did see her. The people at the manor
were strict in their religious observances, and it had been
impressed on Martha that she had better attend at morning
service on her first Sunday, and a girl was found by one of
her neighbours to look after the baby in the meantime. And so
when Sunday came she dressed herself in her best clothes and
went to church with the others. The service over, the squire
and his wife came out first and were standing in the path
exchanging greetings with their friends; then as the others
came out with Martha in the midst of the crowd the lady
turned and fixed her eyes on her, and suddenly stepping out
from the group she stopped Martha and said, "Who are
you?—I don't remember your face."
</p>
<p>
"No, ma'am," said Martha, blushing and curtsying. "I be the
new shepherd's wife at the manor-house farm—we've only
been here a few days."
</p>
<p>
The other then said she had heard of her and that she was
nursing her child, and she then told Martha to go to the
mansion that afternoon as she had something to say to her.
</p>
<p>
The poor young mother went in fear and trembling, trying to
stiffen herself against the expected blandishments.
</p>
<p>
Then followed the fateful interview. The lady was satisfied
that she had got hold of the right person at last—the
one in the world who would be able to save her precious
little one "from to die," the poor pining infant on whose
frail little life so much depended! She would feed it from
her full, healthy breasts and give it something of her own
abounding, splendid life. Martha's own baby would do very
well—there was nothing the matter with it, and it would
flourish on "the bottle" or anything else, no matter what.
All she had to do was to go back to her cottage and make the
necessary arrangements, then come to stay at the mansion.
</p>
<p>
Martha refused, and the other smiled; then Martha pleaded and
cried and said she would never never leave her own child, and
as all that had no effect she was angry, and it came into her
mind that if the lady would get angry too she would be
ordered out and all would be over. But the lady wouldn't get
angry, for when Martha stormed she grew more gentle and spoke
tenderly and sweetly, but would still have it her own way,
until the poor young mother could stand it no longer, and so
rushed away in a great state of agitation to tell her husband
and ask him to help her against her enemy. But Tommy took the
lady's side, and his young wife hated him for it, and was in
despair and ready to snatch up her child and run away from
them all, when all at once a carriage appeared at the
cottage, and the great lady herself, followed by a nurse with
the sickly baby in her arms, came in. She had come, she said
very gently, almost pleadingly, to ask Martha to feed her
child once, and Martha was flattered and pleased at the
request, and took and fondled the infant in her arms, then
gave it suck at her beautiful breast. And when she had fed
the child, acting very tenderly towards it like a mother, her
visitor suddenly burst into tears, and taking Martha in her
arms she kissed her and pleaded with her again until she
could resist no more; and it was settled that she was to live
at the mansion and come once every day to the village to feed
her own child from the breast.
</p>
<p>
Martha's connexion with the people at the mansion did not end
when she had safely reared the sickly child. The lady had
become attached to her and wanted to have her always,
although Martha could not act again as wet nurse, for she had
no more children herself. And by and by when her mistress
lost her health after the birth of a third child and was
ordered abroad, she took Martha with her, and she passed a
whole year with her on the Continent, residing in France and
Italy. They came home again, but as the lady continued to
decline in health she travelled again, still taking Martha
with her, and they visited India and other distant countries,
including the Holy Land; but travel and wealth and all that
the greatest physicians in the world could do for her, and
the tender care of a husband who worshipped her, availed not,
and she came home in the end to die; and Martha went back to
her Tommy and the boy, to be separated no more while their
lives lasted.
</p>
<p>
The great house was shut up and remained so for years. The
squire was the last man in England to shirk his duties as
landlord and to his people whom he loved, and who loved him
as few great landowners are loved in England, but his grief
was too great for even his great strength to bear up against,
and it was long feared by his friends that he would never
recover from his loss. But he was healed in time, and ten
years later married again and returned to his home, to live
there until nigh upon his ninetieth year. Long before this
the Ierats had returned to their native village. When I last
saw Martha, then in her eighty-second year, she gave me the
following account of her Tommy's end.
</p>
<p>
He continued shepherding up to the age of seventy-eight. One
Sunday, early in the afternoon, when she was ill with an
attack of influenza, he came home, and putting aside his
crook said, "I've done work."
</p>
<p>
"It's early," she replied, "but maybe you got the boy to mind
the sheep for you."
</p>
<p>
"I don't mean I've done work for the day," he returned. "I've
done for good—I'll not go with the flock no more."
</p>
<p>
"What be saying?" she cried in sudden alarm. "Be you feeling
bad—what be the matter?"
</p>
<p>
"No, I'm not bad," he said. "I'm perfectly well, but I've
done work;" and more than that he would not say.
</p>
<p>
She watched him anxiously but could see nothing wrong with
him; his appetite was good, he smoked his pipe, and was
cheerful.
</p>
<p>
Three days later she noticed that he had some difficulty in
pulling on a stocking when dressing in the morning, and went
to his assistance. He laughed and said, "Here's a funny
thing! You be ill and I be well, and you've got to help me
put on a stocking!" and he laughed again.
</p>
<p>
After dinner that day he said he wanted a drink and would
have a glass of beer. There was no beer in the house, and she
asked him if he would have a cup of tea.
</p>
<p>
"Oh, yes, that'll do very well," he said, and she made it for
him.
</p>
<p>
After drinking his cup of tea he got a footstool, and placing
it at her feet sat down on it and rested his head on her
knees; he remained a long time in this position so perfectly
still that she at length bent over and felt and examined his
face, only to discover that he was dead.
</p>
<p>
And that was the end of Tommy Ierat, the son of Ellen. He
died, she said, like a baby that has been fed and falls
asleep on its mother's breast.
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p><a name="ch24"><!--Marker--></a>
<h2>
CHAPTER XXIV
</h2>
<h3>
LIVING IN THE PAST
</h3>
<blockquote>
Evening talks—On the construction of
sheep-folds—Making hurdles—Devil's
guts—Character in sheep-dogs—Sally the spiteful
dog—Dyke the lost dog who returned—Strange
recovery of a lost dog—Badger the playful
dog—Badger shepherds the fowls—A ghost
story—A Sunday-evening talk—Parsons and
ministers—Noisy religion—The shepherd's love of
his calling—Mark Dick and the giddy
sheep—Conclusion
</blockquote>
<p>
During our frequent evening talks, often continued till a
late hour, it was borne in on Caleb Bawcombe that his
anecdotes of wild creatures interested me more than anything
else he had to tell; but in spite of this, or because he
could not always bear it in mind, the conversation almost
invariably drifted back to the old subject of sheep, of which
he was never tired. Even in his sleep he does not forget
them; his dreams, he says, are always about sheep; he is with
the flock, shifting the hurdles, or following it out on the
down. A troubled dream when he is ill or uneasy in his sleep
is invariably about some difficulty with the flock; it gets
out of his control, and the dog cannot understand him or
refuses to obey when everything depends on his instant
action. The subject was so much to him, so important above
all others, that he would not spare the listener even the
minutest details of the shepherd's life and work. His "hints
on the construction of sheep-folds" would have filled a
volume; and if any farmer had purchased the book he would not
have found the title a misleading one and that he had been
defrauded of his money. But with his singular fawn-like face
and clear eyes on his listener it was impossible to fall
asleep, or even to let the attention wander; and incidentally
even in his driest discourse there were little bright touches
which one would not willingly have missed.
</p>
<p>
About hurdles he explained that it was common for the
downland shepherds to repair the broken and worn-out ones
with the long woody stems of the bithywind from the hedges;
and when I asked what the plant was he described the wild
clematis or traveller's-joy; but those names he did not
know—to him the plant had always been known as
<i>bithywind</i> or else <i>Devil's guts</i>. It struck me
that bithywind might have come by the transposition of two
letters from withybind, as if one should say flutterby for
butterfly, or flagondry for dragonfly. Withybind is one of
the numerous vernacular names of the common convolvulus.
Lilybind is another. But what would old Gerarde, who invented
the pretty name of traveller's-joy for that ornament of the
wayside hedges, have said to such a name as Devil's guts?
</p>
<p>
There was, said Caleb, an old farmer in the parish of Bishop
who had a peculiar fondness for this plant, and if a shepherd
pulled any of it out of one of his hedges after leafing-time
he would be very much put out; he would shout at him, "Just
you leave my Devil's guts alone or I'll not keep you on the
farm." And the shepherds in revenge gave him the unpleasant
nickname of "Old Devil's Guts," by which he was known in that
part of the country.
</p>
<p>
As a rule, talk about sheep, or any subject connected with
sheep, would suggest something about sheepdogs individual
dogs he had known or possessed, and who always had their own
character and peculiarities, like human beings. They were
good and bad and indifferent; a really bad dog was a rarity;
but a fairly good dog might have some trick or vice or
weakness. There was Sally, for example, a stump-tail bitch,
as good a dog with sheep as he ever possessed, but you had to
consider her feelings. She would keenly resent any injustice
from her master. If he spoke too sharply to her, or rebuked
her unnecessarily for going a little out of her way just to
smell at a rabbit burrow, she would nurse her anger until an
opportunity came of inflicting a bite on some erring sheep.
Punishing her would have made matters worse: the only way was
to treat her as a reasonable being and never to speak to her
as a dog—a mere slave.
</p>
<p>
Dyke was another dog he remembered well. He belonged to old
Shepherd Matthew Titt, who was head-shepherd at a farm near
Warminster, adjacent to the one where Caleb worked. Old Mat
and his wife lived alone in their cottage out of the village,
all their children having long grown up and gone away to a
distance from home, and being so lonely "by their two selves"
they loved their dog just as others love their relations. But
Dyke deserved it, for he was a very good dog. One year Mat
was sent by his master with lambs to Weyhill, the little
village near Andover, where a great sheep-fair is held in
October every year. It was distant over thirty miles, but Mat
though old was a strong man still and greatly trusted by his
master. From this journey he returned with a sad heart, for
he had lost Dyke. He had disappeared one night while they
were at Weyhill. Old Mrs. Titt cried for him as she would
have cried for a lost son, and for many a long day they went
about with heavy hearts.
</p>
<p>
Just a year had gone by when one night the old woman was
roused from sleep by loud knocks on the window-pane of the
living-room below. "Mat! Mat!" she cried, shaking him
vigorously, "wake up—old Dyke has come back to us!"
"What be you talking about?" growled the old shepherd. "Lie
down and go to sleep—you've been dreaming." "'Tain't no
dream; 'tis Dyke—I know his knock," she cried, and
getting up she opened the window and put her head well out,
and there sure enough was Dyke, standing up against the wall
and gazing up at her, and knocking with his paw against the
window below.
</p>
<p>
Then Mat jumped up, and going together downstairs they
unbarred the door and embraced the dog with joy, and the rest
of the night was spent in feeding and caressing him, and
asking him a hundred questions, which he could only answer by
licking their hands and wagging his tail.
</p>
<p>
It was supposed that he had been stolen at the fair, probably
by one of the wild, little, lawless men called "general
dealers," who go flying about the country in a trap drawn by
a fast-trotting pony; that he had been thrown, muffled up,
into the cart and carried many a mile away, and sold to some
shepherd, and that he had lost his sense of direction. But
after serving a stranger a full year he had been taken with
sheep to Weyhill Fair once more, and once there he knew where
he was, and had remembered the road leading to his old home
and master, and making his escape had travelled the thirty
long miles back to Warminster.
</p>
<p>
The account of Dyke's return reminded me of an equally good
story of the recovery of a lost dog which I heard from a
shepherd on the Avon. He had been lost over a year, when one
day the shepherd, being out on the down with his flock, stood
watching two drovers travelling with a flock on the turnpike
road below, nearly a mile away, and by and by hearing one of
their dogs bark he knew at that distance that it was his dog.
"I haven't a doubt," he said to himself, "and if I know his
bark he'll know my whistle." With that he thrust two fingers
in his mouth and blew his shrillest and longest whistle, then
waited the result. Presently he spied a dog, still at a great
distance, coming swiftly towards him; it was his own dog, mad
with joy at finding his old master.
</p>
<p>
Did ever two friends, long sundered by unhappy chance,
recognize each other's voices at such a distance and so come
together once more!
</p>
<p>
Whether the drovers had seen him desert them or not, they did
not follow to recover him, nor did the shepherd go to them to
find out how they had got possession of him; it was enough
that he had got his dog back.
</p>
<p>
No doubt in this case the dog had recognized his old home
when taken by it, but he was in another man's hands now, and
the habits and discipline of a life made it impossible for
him to desert until that old, familiar, and imperative call
reached his ears and he could not disobey.
</p>
<p>
Then (to go on with Caleb's reminiscences) there was Badger,
owned by a farmer and worked for some years by
Caleb—the very best stump-tail he ever had to help him.
This dog differed from others in his vivacious temper and
ceaseless activity. When the sheep were feeding quietly and
there was little or nothing to do for hours at a time, he
would not lie down and go to sleep like any other sheep-dog,
but would spend his vacant time "amusing of hisself" on some
smooth slope where he could roll over and over; then run back
and roll over again and again, playing by himself just like a
child. Or he would chase a butterfly or scamper about over
the down hunting for large white flints, which he would bring
one by one and deposit them at his master's feet, pretending
they were something of value and greatly enjoying the game.
This dog, Caleb said, would make him laugh every day with his
games and capers.
</p>
<p>
When Badger got old his sight and hearing failed; yet when he
was very nearly blind and so deaf that he could not hear a
word of command, even when it was shouted out quite close to
him, he was still kept with the flock because he was so
intelligent and willing. But he was too old at last; it was
time for him to be put out of the way. The farmer, however,
who owned him, would not consent to have him shot, and so the
wistful old dog was ordered to keep at home at the
farm-house. Still he refused to be superannuated, and not
allowed to go to the flock he took to shepherding the fowls.
In the morning he would drive them out to their run and keep
them there in a flock, going round and round them by the
hour, and furiously hunting back the poor hens that tried to
steal off to lay their eggs in some secret place. This could
not be allowed, and so poor old Badger, who would have been
too miserable if tied up, had to be shot after all.
</p>
<p>
These were always his best stories—his recollections of
sheep-dogs, for of all creatures, sheep alone excepted, he
knew and loved them best. Yet for one whose life had been
spent in that small isolated village and on the bare down
about it, his range was pretty wide, and it even included one
memory of a visitor from the other world. Let him tell it in
his own words.
</p>
<p>
"Many say they don't believe there be such things as
ghosties. They niver see'd 'n. An' I don't say I believe or
disbelieve what I hear tell. I warn't there to see. I only
know what I see'd myself: but I don't say that it were a
ghostie or that it wasn't one. I was coming home late one
night from the sheep; 'twere close on 'leven o'clock, a very
quiet night, with moonsheen that made it a'most like day.
Near th' end of the village I come to the stepping-stones, as
we call 'n, where there be a gate and the road, an' just by
the road the four big white stones for people going from the
village to the copse an' the down on t'other side to step
over the water. In winter 'twas a stream there, but the water
it dried in summer, and now 'twere summer-time and there wur
no water. When I git there I see'd two women, both on 'em
tall, with black gowns on, an' big bonnets they used to wear;
an' they were standing face to face so close that the tops o'
their bonnets wur a'most touching together. Who be these
women out so late? says I to myself. Why, says I, they be
Mrs. Durk from up in the village an' Mrs. Gaarge Durk, the
keeper's wife down by the copse. Then I thought I know'd how
'twas: Mrs. Gaarge, she'd a been to see Mrs. Durk in the
village, and Mrs. Durk she were coming out a leetel way with
her, so far as the stepping-stones, and they wur just having
a last leetel talk before saying Good night. But mind, I
hear'd no talking when I passed 'n. An' I'd hardly got past
'n before I says, Why, what a fool be I! Mrs. Durk she be
dead a twelvemonth, an' I were in the churchyard and see'd
her buried myself. Whatever be I thinking of? That made me
stop and turn round to look at 'n agin. An' there they was
just as I see'd 'n at first—Mrs. Durk, who was dead a
twelvemonth, an' Mrs. Gaarge Durk from the copse, standing
there with their bonnets a'most touching together. An' I
couldn't hear nothing—no talking, they were so still as
two posties. Then something came over me like a tarrible
coldness in the blood and down my back, an' I were afraid,
and turning I runned faster than I ever runned in my life,
an' never stopped—not till I got to the cottage."
</p>
<p>
It was not a bad ghost story: but then such stories seldom
are when coming from those who have actually seen, or believe
they have seen, an immaterial being. Their principal charm is
in their infinite variety; you never find two real or true
ghost stories quite alike, and in this they differ from the
weary inventions of the fictionist.
</p>
<p>
But invariably the principal subject was sheep.
</p>
<p>
"I did always like sheep," said Caleb. "Some did say to me
that they couldn't abide shepherding because of the Sunday
work. But I always said, Someone must do it; they must have
food in winter and water in summer, and must be looked after,
and it can't be worse for me to do it."
</p>
<p>
It was on a Sunday afternoon, and the distant sound of the
church bells had set him talking on this subject. He told me
how once, after a long interval, he went to the Sunday
morning service in his native village, and the vicar preached
a sermon about true religion. Just going to church, he said,
did not make men religious. Out there on the downs there were
shepherds who seldom saw the inside of a church, who were
sober, righteous men and walked with God every day of their
lives. Caleb said that this seemed to touch his heart because
he knowed it was true.
</p>
<p>
When I asked him if he would not change the church for the
chapel, now he was ill and his vicar paid him no attention,
while the minister came often to see and talk to him, as I
had witnessed, he shook his head and said that he would never
change. He then added: "We always say that the chapel
ministers are good men: some say they be better than the
parsons; but all I've knowed—all them that have talked
to me—have said bad things of the Church, and that's
not true religion: I say that the Bible teaches different."
</p>
<p>
Caleb could not have had a very wide experience, and most of
us know Dissenting ministers who are wholly free from the
fault he pointed out; but in the purely rural districts, in
the small villages where the small men are found, it is
certainly common to hear unpleasant things said of the parish
priest by his Nonconformist rival; and should the parson have
some well-known fault or make a slip, the other is apt to
chuckle over it with a very manifest and most unchristian
delight.
</p>
<p>
The atmosphere on that Sunday afternoon was very still, and
by and by through the open window floated a strain of music;
it was from the brass band of the Salvationists who were
marching through the next village, about two miles away. We
listened, then Caleb remarked: "Somehow I never cared to go
with them Army people. Many say they've done a great good,
and I don't disbelieve it, but there was too much what I
call—NOISE; if, sir, you can understand what I mean."
</p>
<p>
I once heard the great Dr. Parker speak the word imagination,
or, as he pronounced it, im-madge-i-na-shun, with a volume of
sound which filled a large building and made the quality he
named seem the biggest thing in the universe. That in my
experience was his loftiest oratorical feat; but I think the
old shepherd rose to a greater height when, after a long
pause during which he filled his lungs with air, he brought
forth the tremendous word, dragging it out gratingly, so as
to illustrate the sense in the prolonged harsh sound.
</p>
<p>
To show him that I understood what he meant very well, I
explained the philosophy of the matter as follows: He was a
shepherd of the downs, who had lived always in a quiet
atmosphere, a noiseless world, and from lifelong custom had
become a lover of quiet. The Salvation Army was born in a
very different world, in East London—the dusty, busy,
crowded world of streets, where men wake at dawn to sounds
that are like the opening of hell's gates, and spend their
long strenuous days and their lives in that atmosphere
peopled with innumerable harsh noises, until they, too,
acquire the noisy habit, and come at last to think that if
they have anything to say to their fellows, anything to sell
or advise or recommend, from the smallest thing—from a
mackerel or a cabbage or a penn'orth of milk, to a newspaper
or a book or a picture or a religion—they must howl and
yell it out at every passer-by. And the human voice not being
sufficiently powerful, they provide themselves with bells and
gongs and cymbals and trumpets and drums to help them in
attracting the attention of the public.
</p>
<p>
He listened gravely to this outburst, and said he didn't know
exactly 'bout that, but agreed that it was very quiet on the
downs, and that he loved their quiet. "Fifty years," he said,
"I've been on the downs and fields, day and night, seven days
a week, and I've been told that it's a poor way to spend a
life, working seven days for ten or twelve, or at most
thirteen shillings. But I never seen it like that; I liked
it, and I always did my best. You see, sir, I took a pride in
it. I never left a place but I was asked to stay. When I left
it was because of something I didn't like. I couldn't never
abide cruelty to a dog or any beast. And I couldn't abide bad
language. If my master swore at the sheep or the dog I
wouldn't bide with he—no, not for a pound a week. I
liked my work, and I liked knowing things about sheep. Not
things in books, for I never had no books, but what I found
out with my own sense, if you can understand me.
</p>
<p>
"I remember, when I were young, a very old shepherd on the
farm; he had been more 'n forty years there, and he was
called Mark Dick. He told me that when he were a young man he
was once putting the sheep in the fold, and there was one
that was giddy—a young ewe. She was always a-turning
round and round and round, and when she got to the gate she
wouldn't go in but kept on a-turning and turning, until at
last he got angry and, lifting his crook, gave her a crack on
the head, and down she went, and he thought he'd killed her.
But in a little while up she jumps and trotted straight into
the fold, and from that time she were well. Next day he told
his master, and his master said, with a laugh, 'Well, now you
know what to do when you gits a giddy sheep.' Some time after
that Mark Dick he had another giddy one, and remembering what
his master had said, he swung his stick and gave her a big
crack on the skull, and down went the sheep, dead. He'd
killed it this time, sure enough. When he tells of this one
his master said, 'You've cured one and you've killed one; now
don't you try to cure no more,' he says.
</p>
<p>
"Well, some time after that I had a giddy one in my flock.
I'd been thinking of what Mark Dick had told me, so I caught
the ewe to see if I could find out anything. I were always a
tarrible one for examining sheep when they were ill. I found
this one had a swelling at the back of her head; it were like
a soft ball, bigger 'n a walnut. So I took my knife and
opened it, and out ran a lot of water, quite clear; and when
I let her go she ran quite straight, and got well. After that
I did cure other giddy sheep with my knife, but I found out
there were some I couldn't cure. They had no swelling, and
was giddy because they'd got a maggot on the brain or some
other trouble I couldn't find out."
</p>
<p>
Caleb could not have finished even this quiet Sunday
afternoon conversation, in the course of which we had risen
to lofty matters, without a return to his old favourite
subjects of sheep and his shepherding life on the downs. He
was long miles away from his beloved home now, lying on his
back, a disabled man who would never again follow a flock on
the hills nor listen to the sounds he loved best to
hear—the multitudinous tremulous bleatings of the
sheep, the tinklings of numerous bells, and crisp ringing
bark of his dog. But his heart was there still, and the
images of past scenes were more vivid in him than they can
ever be in the minds of those who live in towns and read
books. "I can see it now," was a favourite expression of his
when relating some incident in his past life. Whenever a
sudden light, a kind of smile, came into his eyes, I knew
that it was at some ancient memory, a touch of quaintness or
humour in some farmer or shepherd he had known in the
vanished time—his father, perhaps, or old John, or Mark
Dick, or Liddy, or Dan'l Burdon, the solemn seeker after
buried treasure.
</p>
<p>
After our long Sunday talk we were silent for a time, and
then he uttered these impressive words: "I don't say that I
want to have my life again, because 'twould be sinful. We
must take what is sent. But if 'twas offered to me and I was
told to choose my work, I'd say, Give me my Wiltsheer Downs
again and let me be a shepherd there all my life long."
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<PRE>
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